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diff --git a/20124.txt b/20124.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9cf2e87 --- /dev/null +++ b/20124.txt @@ -0,0 +1,19836 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Béarn and the Pyrenees, by Louisa Stuart +Costello + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Béarn and the Pyrenees + A Legendary Tour to the Country of Henri Quatre + + +Author: Louisa Stuart Costello + + + +Release Date: December 16, 2006 [eBook #20124] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BéARN AND THE PYRENEES*** + + +E-text prepared by Janet Blenkinship, Chuck Greif, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team at DP Europe +(http://dp.rastko.net/) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 20124-h.htm or 20124-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/2/20124/20124-h/20124-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/1/2/20124/20124-h.zip) + + +Transcriber's note: + + The original spelling and puncturation have been retained. + + + + + +BEARN AND THE PYRENEES: + +A Legendary Tour to the Country of Henri Quatre. + +by + +LOUISA STUART COSTELLO, + +Author of "The Bocages and the Vines," "A Pilgrimage to Auvergne," Etc. + +With numerous Illustrations. + +In Two Volumes. + + + + + + + +London: +Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street, +Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty. +1844. +Printed by R. Clay, Bread Street Hill. + + + + + TO + MISS BURDETT COUTTS, + THESE VOLUMES + ARE DEDICATED WITH MUCH RESPECT AND AFFECTION + BY + HER SINCERELY OBLIGED + HUMBLE SERVANT, + LOUISA STUART COSTELLO. + LONDON, + MARCH 16, 1844. + + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +When I first indulged the inclination, which I had long entertained, of +visiting the famous castle of Chinon, and the equally interesting abbey +of Fontevraud--the palace and tomb of our English kings--and paused on +my way in "the lovely vales of Vire," and gathered in romantic Brittany +some of her pathetic legends, I thought I should have satisfied my +longing to explore France; but I found that every step I look in that +teeming region opened to me new stores of interest; and, encouraged by +the pleasure my descriptions had given, I set out again, following +another route, to the regal city of Rheims, visiting the vine-covered +plains of Champagne and Burgundy, and all their curious historical +towns, till I reached the _dominion_ of Charles the Seventh at Bourges, +to become acquainted with whose gorgeous cathedral and antique palaces +is worth any fatigue. From thence I wandered on to the beautiful Monts +Dores, and the basaltic regions of unexplored Le Vellay; and, after +infinite gratification, I once more turned my steps homeward; but, like +Sindbad, I felt that there was much more yet to be explored; and I had +visions of the romantic and delightful realms, which extend where once +the haughty heiress of Aquitaine held her poetical courts of Love and +Chivalry. The battle-fields of our Black Prince were yet to be traced; +the sites of all the legends and adventures of the most entertaining of +chroniclers, Froissart, were yet to be discovered; and the land of +mountains and torrents, where the Great Bearnais passed his hardy +childhood, was yet unknown to me. + +I therefore again assumed my "cockle hat and staff," and, re-entering +the Norman territory, commenced exploring, from the stone bed of the +Conqueror, at Falaise, to the tortoise-shell cradle of Henry of Navarre, +at Pau. + +Not inferior to my two former pilgrimages, in interest, did this my +third ramble prove. How many "old romantic towns" I passed through; how +much of varied lore I heard and found amongst the still original and, +even now, unsophisticated peasantry; how numerous were the recollections +which places and things recalled, and how pleasant were the scenes I +met, I have endeavoured to tell the lovers of easy adventure--for any +traveller, with the slightest enterprise, could accomplish what I have +done without fatigue, and with the certainty of being repaid for the +exertion of seeking for amusement. + +In succession, I paused at Le Mans, the scene of the great Vendeean +struggle, where the majestic cathedral challenges the admiration of all +travellers of taste; at Poitiers, full of antique wonders; in the region +of _the Serpent lady_, Melusine; at Protestant La Rochelle, with all its +battlements and turrets, and the most beautiful bathing-establishment in +Europe. At mysterious Saintes, and all its pagan temples and arches; at +Bordeaux, the magnificent; on the Garonne, and by its robbers'-castles; +at Agen, with its _barber troubadour_; in the haunts of Gaston de Foix +and Jeanne d'Albret and her son; in the gloomy valleys of the proscribed +Cagot; and where the mellifluous accents of the Basquaise enchant the +ear. All the impressions made by these scenes I have endeavoured to +convey to my readers, as I did before, inviting them to follow my +footsteps, and judge if I have told them true. + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. + + +INTRODUCTION + +CHAPTER I. + +Honfleur--Dejazet--The Sailor Prince--Le Mari--Lisieux--La Croix +Blanche--Arrival at Falaise--Guibray--Castle of Falaise--The little +Recess--Arlette--The Father--The Infant Hero--The Uncle--Arlette's +Tears--Her Reception. + +CHAPTER II. + +Prince Arthur--Want of Gallantry Punished--The Recreant Sow--The Rocks +of Noron--La Grande Eperonniere--Le Camp-ferme--Antiquities of +Falaise--Alencon--Norman Caps--Geese--Le Mans--Tomb of +Berangere--Cathedral--Ancient Remains--Streets--The Veiled Figure. + +CHAPTER III. + +Tomb of Berangere--Wives of Coeur de Lion--Tombs--Abbey +Churches--Chateau of Le Mans--De Craon--The Spectre of Le Mans--The +Vendeeans--Madame de la Roche-Jaquelin--A Woman's Perils--Disasters of +the Vendeeans--Henri--Chouans. + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Museum of Le Mans--Venus--Mummy--Geoffrey-le-Bel--His +Costume--Matilda--Scarron--Helie de la Fleche--Rufus--The White Knight. + +CHAPTER V. + +Lude--Saumur Revisited--The Garden--La Petite Voisine--The Retired +Militaire--Les Pierres Couvertes--Les Petites Pierres--Loudun--Urbain +Grandier--Richelieu--The Nuns--The Victim--The Fly--The Malle +Poste--The Dislodged Serpents. + +CHAPTER VI. + +Poitiers--Battles--The Armies--King John of France--The Young +Warrior--Hotel des Vreux--Amphitheatre--Blossac--The Great Stone--The +Scholars--Museum--The Demon's Stone--Grande Gueule. + +CHAPTER VII. + +Notre Dame--The Keys--The Miracle--Procession--St. Radegonde--Tomb of +the Saint--Foot-print--Little Loubette--The Count Outwitted--The +Cordelier--Late Justice--The Templars. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Chateau de la Fee--King Rene--The Miniatures--The Post-Office +Functionary--Originality--The English Bank-note--St. Porchaire--The Dead +Child--Montierneuf--Guillaume Guy Geoffroy--Thomas a Becket--Choir of +Angels--Relics--The Armed Hermit--A Saint--The Repudiated +Queen--Elionore--The Bold Priest--Lay. + +CHAPTER IX. + +Melusine--Lusignan--Trou de la Fee--The Legend--Male Curiosity--The +Discovery--The Fairy's Shrieks--The Chronicler--Geoffrey of the Great +Tooth--Jaques Coeur--Royal Gratitude--Enemies--Jean du +Village--Wedding--The Bride--The Tragedy of Mauprier--The Garden--The +Shepherdess--The Walnut-Gatherers--La Gatine--St. Maixant--Niort--Madame +de Maintenon--Enormous Caps--Chamois Leather--Duguesclin--The Dame de +Plainmartin--The Sea. + +CHAPTER X. + +La Rochelle--Les Trois Chandeliers--Oysters--Bathing +Establishment--Gaiety--Military Discipline--Curious Arcades--Story of +Auffredy. + +CHAPTER XI. + +Towers--Religion--Maria Belandelle--Storm--Protestant Retreat--Solemn +Dinners--"Half-and-half"--Go to sleep!--The Brewery--Gas +Establishment--Chateau of La Font--The Mystery explained--Triumph of +Scenery over Appetite--Slave Trade--Charles le Bien Servi--Liberality of +Louis-Philippe--Guiton--House of Le Maire Guiton--The Fleets--The +Fight--The Mayor and the Governor. + +CHAPTER XII. + +Rochefort--The Curious Bonne--Americanisms--Convicts--The +Charente--"Tulipes"--Taillebourg--Henry the Third--St. Louis--False +Security--Romegoux--Puytaille + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Saintes--Roman Arch of Triumph--Gothic Bridge--The Cours--Ruined +City--Cathedral--Coligny--Ruined Palace--St. +Eutrope--Amphitheatre--Legend of Ste. Eustelle--The Prince of +Babylon--Fete--The Coteau--Ste. Marie + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Frere Chretien--Utility of Custom-house Search--Bold +Voyager--Pauillac--Blaye--The Gironde--Talbot--Vines--The +Landes--Phantom of King Arthur--The Witch-finder--The Landes--Wreckers + +CHAPTER XV. + +Ports--Divona--Bordeaux--Quinconces--Allees--First +Impression--Chartrons--Bahutier--Bacalan--Quays--White Guide--Ste. +Croix--St. Michel--St. Andre--Pretty Figure--Pretty Women--Palais +Gallien--Black Prince's Son, Edward. + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The Garonne--The Lord of Langoyran--Miracle of the Mule--Castle of the +Four Sons of Aymon--The Aged Lover--Gavaches--The Franchimans--Count +Raymond--Flying Bridges--The Miller of Barbaste--The Troubadour +Count--The Count de la Marche--The Rochellaises--Eugenie and her Song. + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Agen--La Belle Esther--St. Caprais--The Little Cherubs--Zoe at the +Fountain--The Hill--Le Gravier--Jasmin, the Poet-Barber--The +Metaphor--Las Papillotas--Franconnette--Jasmin's Lines on the Old +Language--The Shepherd and the Gascon Poet--Return to Agen--Jasmin and +the King of France--Jasmin and the Queen of England. + + + + +BEARN AND THE PYRENEES. VOL. I. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + HONFLEUR--DEJAZET--THE SAILOR PRINCE--LE MARI--LISIEUX--LA CROIX + BLANCHE--ARRIVAL AT FALAISE--GUIBRAY--CASTLE OF FALAISE--THE LITTLE + RECESS--ARLETTE--THE FATHER--THE INFANT HERO--THE UNCLE--ARLETTE'S + TEARS--HER RECEPTION. + + +WITHIN ten leagues of the interesting town of Caen, where William of +Normandy and his queen lie buried, the traveller, who devotes a short +space of time to a search after the picturesque, may, without straying +too far a-field, find what he desires in the clean, bright, gay town of +Falaise, where the hero of the Conquest was born. + +From Southampton to Havre it requires only twelve hours to cross, and, +as was the case with myself and my companions, when, at the end of +August 1842, we began a journey, whose end was "to be" the mountains +which divide France from Spain, if the city of parrots is already +familiar to the tourist, he has only to take the steam-packet, which in +four hours will land him at Caen, or enter the boat which crosses the +fine bold river to Honfleur. In an hour you arrive at Honfleur, after a +very pleasant voyage, which the inhabitants of Havre are extremely fond +of taking: a diligence starts from the quay, and proceeds through an +avenue of a league's length between beautiful hills, orchards, and +corn-fields, to the strange old town of Lisieux, to which we proceeded. + +One of our fellow-travellers in the diligence was a smart, lively +looking young woman, whose resemblance to the celebrated actress +Dejazet, whom we had very lately seen in London, was so striking as to +be quite remarkable. Her tone of voice, her air and manner, as well as +her features, reminded us strongly of the _artiste_ whose warm reception +in England, where we are supposed to be correct even to fastidiousness, +has not a little amused the Parisians at our expense. Whatever may be +the objections to Dejazet's style, certain it is that her imitation of +the manners of the class of _grisettes_ and peasants is inimitable; not +a shade, not a tone, is forgotten, and the _truth_ of her +representations is proved at every step you take in France, either in +the provinces or in Paris. + +Our little talkative companion had much to relate of herself and her +husband, whom she described as a piece of perfection; he had just +returned from a whaling expedition, after several years' absence, and +they were now on their way to Lisieux to visit her relations, and give +him a little shooting. He had brought back, according to her account, a +mine of wealth; and, as she had incurred no debts during his absence, +but had supported herself by opening a little _cafe_, which she assured +us had succeeded admirably, they were proceeding, with well-filled +purses, to see their only child who was in the keeping of its +grandmother. She told wondrous histories of his exploits amongst the +ice, of his encounters with the natives--"_les Indiens_," of the success +of all his voyages, and the virtues of his captain, who was an +Englishman and _never spoke to his crew_, but was the most just man in +the world, and ended by saying that when she met with English people she +felt _in Paradise_. + +Although we listened to her continued chattering with amused attention, +it was far otherwise with some quiet, silent, women who sat beside us; +we soon gathered, by certain contemptuous glances which they exchanged, +that they did not give credit to half our little Dejazet was telling; +and when to crown the whole, she related a story of a beautiful maiden +of Lisieux, who had been distinguished by the notice of the Duke de +_Nemours_ when he visited that place on his way to join _his ship_ at +Havre, they could support their impatience no longer, and broadly +contradicted her on the ground that the Prince de Joinville and _not_ +Nemours was the sailor. + +Nothing daunted, our gay whaler's wife insisted on every part of her +history being true, asserting that she must know best, and if the young +prince had _left the navy_ since, it was not her affair. + +As she approached Lisieux she became more and more animated, darting her +body half way out of the window every minute to look out for her _papa_ +or her other relations;--at length, with a scream which would have +secured Dejazet three rounds of applause, she recognised her parent in a +peasant _en blouse_, trudging along the road carrying his bundle--on his +way, no doubt, as she assured us, to see her sister, who lived at a +village near. Tears and smiles alternately divided the expression of her +countenance, as she now feared her sister was ill, and now rejoiced at +seeing her father. All was however happily settled when the coach +stopped and she sprang out into the arms of her papa, who had followed +the diligence, and came up out of breath; and it was then that we became +aware that a remarkably ill-looking, dirty, elderly, Jewish featured +man, to whom she had occasionally spoken on the journey, was the +identical perfection of a _mari_, of whom she had been boasting all the +way. The incredulous listeners, whom she had so annoyed, now revenged +themselves by sundry depreciatory remarks on the appearance of this +phoenix, whom they pronounced to have the air of a tinker or old +clothesman, and by no means that of the hero he had been represented. + +As it was raining violently on our arrival at Lisieux, the town +presented to us but an uncomfortable appearance; and as we had to search +for an hotel, and were at last obliged to be content with one far from +inviting, our first impression was by no means agreeable; nor does +Lisieux offer anything to warrant a change in the traveller's opinion +who considers it dreary, slovenly, and ruinous. There is much, however, +to admire in the once beautiful cathedral, and the church of St. +Jacques, both grand specimens of the massive architecture of the twelfth +century. + +In this town lived and died the traitor Bishop of Bayeux, Pierre +Cauchon, who sold the heroic Jeanne d'Arc for English gold. An +expiatory chapel was erected by him in the cathedral, where it was +hoped the tears of the pious would help to wash his sins away; but no +one now remembers either him or his crime, for we asked in vain for the +spot; and when prayers are offered at the shrine of the Virgin in the +chapel dedicated to her, which we eventually discovered to be its site, +not one is given to the cruel bishop, whose ill-gotten money was +therefore expended in vain; for the centuries it must have required to +rescue his soul from purgatory cannot have expired by this time. The +churches are being restored, and building, as usual in all French towns, +is going on: when numerous ugly striped houses are removed, and their +places filled up, the principal square of Lisieux may deserve to be +admired, though whether it will ever merit the encomium of an old lady +who resides in it, and who assured us it would in a short time be +_superbe_, time will determine. The public promenades are good, and the +views round the town pretty, but we did not feel tempted to wait for +finer weather, and took our departure for Falaise with little delay. + +The drive from Lisieux to Falaise is charming; and, although the +appearance of the hotels is not in their favour, there is nothing to +complain of in regard to cleanliness or attention: at least so we found +it at La Croix Blanche, where the singular beauty of our hostess added +to the romance of our position, perched, as we were, on a balcony +without awning, in a building which had evidently been part of an old +tower. It is true that we should have preferred something rather less +exposed when we found ourselves confined for a whole day, in consequence +of the pouring rain, and found that a stream of water had made its way +from our balcony into each of our rooms; whose bricked floors were +little improved by their visit. Our suggestion of covering the way, in +order that, in wet weather, both the dinner and its bearers might be +sheltered, appeared to excite surprise, though our attendants came in +constantly with their high caps wet through and their aprons soaked. + +Our nearly exhausted patience, as we gazed hopelessly on the dull sky of +an _August_ day, was at length rewarded; and the sun, which had +obstinately concealed himself for several days, burst forth on the +second morning of our arrival, and changed by its power the whole face +of things at Falaise. We lost no time in taking advantage of the fine +day which invited us, and sallied forth, all expectation, into the +streets, which we found, as well as the walks, as dry as if no rain had +fallen for months; so fresh and bright is the atmosphere in this +beautiful place. + +The town is clean and neat; most of the ruinous, striped houses, with +projecting stories, such as deform the streets of Lisieux, being +cleared away; leaving wide spaces and pure air, at least in the +centre-town, where the best habitations are situated. There are other +divisions, less airy and more picturesque, called the fauxbourgs of +Guibray and St. Laurent, and le Val d'Ante; where many antique houses +are still standing, fit to engage the pencil of the antiquarian artist. + +The churches of Falaise are sadly defaced, but, from their remains, must +have been of great beauty. The Cathedral, or Eglise de St. Laurent, is +partly of the twelfth century; the exterior is adorned with carving, and +gargouilles, and flying-buttresses, of singular grace; but the whole +fabric is so built in with ugly little shops, that all fine effect is +destroyed. The galleries in the church of La Trinite are elaborately +ornamented, as are some of the chapels, whose roofs are studded with +pendants. Much of this adornment is due to the English, under Henry V., +and a good deal is of the period of the _renaissance_. + +The church of Guibray was founded by Duke William, as the Norman windows +and arches testify; but a great deal of bad taste has been expanded in +endeavouring to turn the venerable structure into a Grecian temple, +according to the approved method of the time of Louis XIV. A statue of +the wife of Coeur de Lion was once to be seen here, but has long +disappeared. That princess resided in this part of Falaise, at one +period of her widowhood, and contributed greatly to the embellishment of +the church. + +There are many columns and capitals, and arches and ornaments of +interest in the church of St. Gervais, defaced and altered as it is; but +it is impossible to give all the attention they deserve to these +buildings, when the towers of the splendid old castle are wooing you to +delay no longer, but mount at once the steep ascent which leads to its +walls. + +Rising suddenly from the banks of a brawling crystal stream, a huge mass +of grey rocks, thrown in wild confusion one on the other, sustains on +its summit the imposing remains of the castle, whose high white tower, +alone and in perfect preservation, commands an immense tract of smiling +country, and seems to have defied the attacks of ages, as it gleams in +the sun, the smooth surface of its walls apparently uninjured and +unstained. This mighty donjon is planted in a lower part of the height; +consequently, high as it appears, scarcely half of its real elevation is +visible. Its walls are of prodigious thickness, and seem to have proved +their power through centuries of attack and defence to which it has been +exposed; careless alike of the violence of man and the fury of the +elements. Adjoining the keep are ranges of ruined walls, pierced with +fine windows, whose circular arches, still quite entire, show their +early Norman construction. Close to the last of these, whose pillars, +with wreathed capitals, are as sharp as if just restored, is a low door, +leading to a small chamber in the thickness of the wall. There is a +little recess in one corner, and a narrow window, through whose minute +opening a fine prospect may be seen. + +This small chamber, tradition says, was once adorned with "azure and +vermilion;" though it could scarcely have ever presented a very gay +appearance, even when used as the private retreat of the luxurious +master of the castle. However, such as it is, we are bound to look upon +this spot with veneration; for it is asserted, that here a child was +born in secrecy and mystery, and that here, by this imperfect light, his +beautiful mother gazed upon the features of the future hero of Normandy. + +However unlike a bower fitted for beauty and love, it is said that here +Arlette, the skinner's daughter, was confined of William the Conqueror. +It is said, too, that from this height, the sharp-sighted Duke his +father, gazing from his towers, first beheld the lovely peasant girl +bathing in the fountain which still bears her name. In this retreat, +concealed from prying eyes, and where inquisitive ears found it +difficult to catch a sound, the shrill cry of the wondrous infant was +first uttered,--a sound often to be repeated by every echo of the land, +when changed to the war note which led to victory. + +Little, perhaps, did his poor mother exult in his birth, for she was of +lowly lineage, and had never raised her eyes to the castle but with awe, +nor thought of its master but with fear; her pleasures were to dance, on +holidays, under the shade of trees with the simple villagers, her +companions; her duties, to wash her linen on the stones of the silver +stream, as her townswomen do still at the present day--that silver +stream which probably flowed past her father's cottage, as it still +flows, bathing the base of cottages as humble and as rudely built as his +could have been. There might, perchance, have been one, amongst the +youths who admired her beauty, whom she preferred to the rest; her +ambition might have been to become his bride, her dreams might have +imaged his asking her of her father, whose gracious consent made them +both happy: in her ears might have rung the pealing bells of St. +Gervais--the vision of maidens, in bridal costumes, strewing flowers in +her path, might have risen before her view--her lover with his soft +words and smiles--his cottage amongst the heath-covered rocks of +Noron--all this might have flitted across her mind, as she stood beside +the fountain, beneath the castle walls, unconscious that eyes were +gazing on her whose influence was to fix her destiny. A mail-clad +warrior, terrible and powerful, whose will may not be resisted, whose +gold glitters in her father's eyes, or whose chains clank in his ears, +has seen and coveted her for his own, and her simple dream must be +dispersed in air to make way for waking terrors. The unfortunate father +trembles while he feebly resists, he listens to the duke's proposal, he +has yet a few words of entreaty for his child: he dares not tell her +what her fate must be, he hopes that time and new adventures will efface +Arlette from the mind of her dangerous lover; but, again, he is urged, +heaps of gold shine before him, how shall he turn from their tempting +lustre? Is there not in yonder tower an _oubliette_ that yawns for the +disobedient vassal? He appeals to Arlette, she has no reply but tears; +men at arms appear in the night, they knock at the skinner's door and +demand his daughter, they promise fair in the name of their master; they +mount her on a steed before the gentlest of their band, his horse's +hoofs clatter along the rocky way--the father hears the sobs of his +child for a little space, and his heart sinks,--he hides his eyes with +his clenched hand, but suddenly he starts up--his floor is strewn with +glittering pieces--he stoops down and counts them, and Arlette's sorrows +are forgotten. + +Arlette returns no more to her father's cottage. She remains in a turret +of the castle, but not as a handmaiden of the duchess; her existence is +not supposed to be known, though the childless wife of Duke Robert weeps +in secret, over her wrongs. + +All this is pure fancy, and may have no foundation in reality. + + "Look here upon this picture and on that." + +Perhaps Arlette did not repine at her fate; she might have been +ambitious and worldly, vain and presuming, have possessed cunning and +resolve, and have used every artifice to secure her triumph. Some of the +stories extant of her would seem to prove this, and some to exculpate +her from blame, inasmuch as she believed herself to have fulfilled a +sacred duty in conforming to her master's will. When she told her lover +that she had dreamt "a tree sprang from her bosom which overshadowed all +Normandy," there was more evidence of policy than simplicity in the +communication which was so well calculated to raise the hopes of a great +man without an heir; and perhaps it was she herself who dictated the +saying of the _sage femme_ at her son's birth, who, having placed him +_on straw_ by her side, and observing that the robust infant grasped in +his tiny hands as much as he could hold, cried out--"_Par Dieu_! this +child begins early to grasp and make all his own!" At all events the +little hero was "honourably brought up," and treated as if legitimate. + +Another version of the story of Arlette is given by an ancient +chronicler, (Benoit de St Maur,) which is certainly a sufficient +contrast to the view I ventured to take of the affair, probably with but +little correctness, considering the manners of the period. + +It appears that the scruples of the fair daughter of _Vertpres_, the +skinner, for his name seems to be known, were dispersed by the advice +and injunction of her uncle, a holy personage, of _singular_ piety, who +dwelt in a hermitage in the wood of Gouffern. Convinced, by his +arguments, that Heaven had directed the affection of the duke towards +her, she no longer resisted her father's wish, and made preparations as +if for a bridal, providing herself with rich habiliments calculated to +enhance her beauty. When the messengers of the duke came to fetch her, +they requested that she would put on a cloak and cape, and conceal her +rich dress, for fear of the jeers of the common people, who would +perhaps insult her if she appeared publicly with them; but she replied +boldly and proudly, "Does the duke send for me after this manner, as if +I were not the daughter of an honourable man? Shall I go secretly, as if +I were but a disgraced woman? That which I do is in all honour and +respectability, not from wickedness or weakness, and I am not ashamed +that men should see me pass. If I am to be taken to the duke, it shall +not be on foot and hidden--fetch, therefore, your palfrey, and let me go +as it becomes me." Her dress is thus described:--"She had clothed her +gentle body in a fine shift, over which was a grey pelisse, wide and +without lacings, but setting close to her shape and her arms: over this +she wore a short mantle conformable and of good taste; her long hair was +slightly bound with a fillet of fine silver. It was in this guise, +beautiful to behold, that she mounted the courser which was brought for +her, and saluted her _father and mother_ as she rode away; but at _the +last moment she was seized with a trembling, and burst into weeping, +covering her fair bosom with her tears_." + +When she arrived, "by a fine moon-light," at the castle gate, her +attendants made her alight, and opened a wicket for her to enter, but +she drew back, saying, "The duke has sent for me, and it would seem that +he esteems me little if his gates are not to be opened for my passage. +Let him order them to give me entrance, or send me back at once. _Beaux +amis, ouvrez-moi la porte_." + +The messengers, awed by her dignity, hesitated not to obey her, and she +was presently conducted into the presence of Duke Robert, who awaited +her coming in a vaulted chamber, adorned with gilding, where "fine +images were represented in enamel and colours." There he received her +with great joy and honour, and from that time she possessed all his +love. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + PRINCE ARTHUR--WANT OF GALLANTRY PUNISHED--THE RECREANT SOW--THE + ROCKS OF NORON--LA GRANDE EPERONNIERE--LE CAMP-FERME--ANTIQUITIES + OF FALAISE--ALENCON--NORMAN CAPS--GEESE--LE MANS--TOMB OF + BERANGERE--CATHEDRAL--ANCIENT REMAINS--STREETS--THE VEILED FIGURE. + + +CLOSE to the natal chamber of Duke William may be seen another recess in +the thick walls, still smaller and more dismal, to which a ruined window +now gives more light than in the days when poor young Arthur of Brittany +looked sadly through its loop-holes over a wide extent of country, now +all cultivation and beauty, but probably then bristling with forts and +towers, all in the hands of his hard-hearted uncle John. After having +made his nephew prisoner in Anjou, John sent him to Falaise, and had him +placed in this dungeon in the custody of some severe but not cruel +knights, who treated him with all the respect they dared to show. An +order from their treacherous master soon arrived, directing that he +should be put to death; but they refused obedience, and indignantly +exclaimed, that the walls of the castle of Falaise should not be sullied +by such a crime. Arthur was therefore removed to Rouen, and there less +conscientious men were found to execute the tyrant's will, if tradition, +so varied on the point, speak true. + +Stephen maintained himself in the castle of Falaise against the father +of Henry II., and these walls have probably echoed to the lays of +minstrels, whose harps were tuned in praise of the beautiful and haughty +heiress of Aquitaine. The fair wife of Coeur de Lion had this castle for +her dower, and, for some time, is said to have lived here. Philip +Augustus accorded some singular privileges to Falaise, two of which +deserve to be recorded. + +If a woman were convicted of _being fond of scandal_, and known to +backbite her neighbours, they had the right of placing cords under her +arms and ducking her three times in the water: after this, if a man took +the liberty of reproaching her with the circumstance, he was compelled +to pay a fine of ten sous, or else he was plunged into the stream in a +similar manner. + +If a man were so ungallant as to call a woman _ugly_, he was obliged to +pay a fine. This offence was indeed worthy of condign punishment, if the +women of Falaise were as pretty formerly as they are now: with their +neat petticoats, smart feet in sabots, high butterfly or mushroom caps, +as white as snow, scarlet handkerchiefs and bright-coloured aprons, with +their round healthy cheeks, lively eyes, and good-humoured expression +of countenance, the Falaisiennes are as agreeable a looking race as one +would wish to see, and more likely to elicit compliment than insult. + +Many curious customs prevailed in the middle ages in this old town; and +one was formerly portrayed on the walls of a chapel in the church of the +Holy Trinity. It was the representation of an execution: the delinquent +had injured a child, by disfiguring its face and arms, and suffered in +consequence. The culprit was no other than a sow; and when the crime +committed was brought home to her, the learned judges assembled on the +occasion pronounced her as guilty of malice prepense; and in order to +hold her up as an example to all sows in time to come, her _face_ and +_fore legs_ were mutilated in a similar manner to those of her victim. +The spectacle of her punishment took place in a public square, amidst a +great concourse of spectators, the father of the child being brought as +a witness, and condemned to stand by during the infliction, as a due +reward for not having sufficiently watched his infant. The +"viscount-judge" of Falaise appeared on the solemn occasion "on +horseback, with a plume of feathers on his head, and _his hand on his +side_." The sow was dragged forth dressed in the costume of a citizen, +in a vest and breeches, and "_with gloves on_, wearing a mask +representing the face of a man." + +What effect this wise judgment had is not related; probably it produced +as salutary a result as most of those exhibitions designed for the +amusement or instruction of an enlightened multitude. + +The chain of the rocks of Noron, on part of which the castle is +situated, is singularly picturesque; and from those opposite, rising +from the side of Arlette's fountain, the fine ruins have a most majestic +effect; and the prospect for leagues round is extremely beautiful. A +soft turf, covered with wild thyme, heath, and fern, makes the +meandering walks amongst the huge blocks of moss-mantled stone, tempting +and delightful, in spite of their steepness; and the delicious perfume +of the fragrant herbs, growing in great luxuriance everywhere, is +refreshing in the extreme. The snowy tower of strength, rising from its +bed of piled up rock--the broad high walls, and their firm buttresses +and circular windows, through which the blue sky gleams--the nodding +foliage and garlands of ivy which adorn the huge towers--and, far +beyond, a rich and glowing country, altogether present a scene of +beauty, difficult to be equalled in any part of Normandy, rich as that +charming province is in animated landscape. + +We spent many hours of a brilliant summer's day, climbing amongst the +rocks, and making sketches of the castle in its different phases, all of +which offer studies to an artist: here the majestic donjon forms a fine +object; there the ruined arsenal; and farther off the battered walls, +separated and hurled down by the cannon of Henri IV. when through this +breach his white plume was seen triumphantly waving as he cheered his +warriors on to the attack, changing the _six months_ proposed by Brissac +into _six days_, during which he took the fortress and the town. + +An anecdote is related of a heroine of Falaise, whose exploits are +recorded with pride by her countrymen, by whom she is called _La Grande +Eperonniere_. She had headed a party of valiant citizens, who defended +one of their gates, and fought with such determination, as to keep her +position for a long time against the soldiers of Le Vert Galant. + +The king, when the town was in his power, summoned her before him: she +came, and approaching with the same undaunted air, interrupted him, as +he was about to propose terms to her, and demanded at once the safety of +all the women and aged men of the town of Falaise. Henry was struck with +her courage, and desired her to shut herself up in a street with the +persons she wished to save, together with all their most precious +possessions, and gave her his word that no soldier should penetrate that +retreat. He, of course, kept his promise; and she assembled her friends, +took charge of most of the riches of the town, closed the two ends of +the street in which she lived, and, while all the rest of Falaise was +given up to pillage, no one ventured to enter the sacred precincts. The +street is still pointed out, and is called _Le Camp-fermant_, or +_Camp-ferme_, in memory of the event. The heroic Eperonniere was +fortunate in having a chief to deal with, who gladly took advantage of +every opportunity to exercise mercy. + +The town of Falaise is well provided with water, and its fountains stand +in fine open squares: a pretty rivulet runs through the greatest part, +and turns several mills for corn, oil, cotton and tan; it is called the +Ante, and gives name to the valley it embellishes as it runs glittering +along amongst the rugged stones which impede its way with a gentle +murmur, making a chorus to the voices of the numerous Arlettes, who, +kneeling at their cottage doors, may be seen rubbing their linen against +the flat stones over which the stream flows, bending down their heads +which, except on grand occasions, are no longer adorned with the high +fly-caps which are so becoming to their faces, but are covered with a +somewhat unsightly cotton nightcap, a species of head-gear much in vogue +in this part of lower Normandy, and a manufacture for which Falaise is +celebrated, and has consequently obtained the name of _the city of +cotton nightcaps_. However, there is one advantage in this usage--the +women have better teeth than in most cider countries, owing perhaps to +their heads being kept warm, and, ugly as the cotton caps are, they +deserve admiration accordingly. + +A house is shown in one of the streets, called the House of the +Conqueror, and a rudely sculptured bust is exhibited there, dignified +with his name. Some few tottering antique houses still contrive to keep +together in the oldest parts of the town, but none are by any means +worthy of note; one is singular, being covered with a sort of coat of +mail formed of little scales of wood lapping one over the other, and +preserving the remains of some carved pillars, apparently once of great +delicacy. One pretty tower is still to be seen at the corner of the Rue +du Camp-ferme, which seems to have formed part of a very elegant +building, to judge by its lightness and grace; it has sunk considerably +in the earth, but from its height a fine prospect may be obtained. There +is a public library at Falaise, that great resource of all French towns, +and several fine buildings dedicated to general utility; but the boys of +the college the most excite the envy of the stranger, for their abode is +on the broad ramparts, and their playground and promenades are along the +beautiful walks formed on the ancient defences of the castle. + +Our way to Alencon, where we proposed to stop a day, lay through +Argentan on the Orne, a pretty town on a height commanding a fine view +of plain and forest; the country is little remarkable the whole way, but +cultivated and pretty. At Seez the fine, delicate, elevated spires of +the Cathedral mark the situation of the town long before and after it is +reached; but, besides that, it possesses no attractions sufficient to +detain the traveller. + +Alencon, the capital of the department of Orne, is a clean, open, +well-built town, situated in a plain with woods in all directions, which +entirely bound its prospects. The public promenades are remarkably fine, +laid out with taste, and a great resource to the inhabitants, who +consider them equal to those of Paris, comparing them to the gardens of +the Luxembourg. The cathedral, once fine, is dreadfully defaced, and the +boasted altars and adornments of the chapels are in the usual bad taste +so remarkable at the present day. + +A few fine round towers remain of the ancient chateau, now a prison, +which is the only vestige of antiquity remaining. There was an +exhibition of works of industry and art going on, which we went to see, +and were much struck with the extreme beauty of some specimens of the +lace called Point d'Alencon. The patterns and delicate execution of this +manufacture are exquisite, equalling ancient point lace and Brussels. +Some very fine stuffs in wool, transparent as gossamer and of the +softest colours, attracted us, but the severity of an official +prevented our examining them as closely as we wished, and as there was +no indication of the place where they could be beheld at liberty, we +were obliged to content ourselves with the supposition that they were +the produce of the workshops of Alencon. As the large gallery in which +the exhibition took place was principally filled with peasants in +blouses and women with children, perhaps the vigilance of the attendants +might not be useless; but whether their proceeding was judicious in +refusing information to strangers or persons who might be able to +purchase goods which pleased them, is questionable. + +Amongst the customary Norman caps to be seen here, we remarked one which +we recognised at once as Breton. The girl who wore it was very pretty, +and in spite of the grave demeanour peculiar to her country and a +distinguishing trait, was pleased at my wishing to sketch her +singular-shaped head-dress, _en crete de coq_: she was from St. Malo, as +I had no difficulty in guessing. + +Through alleys of crimson-apple trees our road continued, and we were +forcibly, and not very agreeably reminded, at almost every step, that +there is a large trade carried on in this part of the country in goose +down, for flocks of these unfortunate animals were scattered along the +road, their breasts entirely despoiled of their downy beauties, offering +a frightful spectacle; the immense numbers exceed belief, and all appear +of a fine species. At every cabaret we passed, notices were stuck up +informing those whom it might concern, that accommodation for four or +five hundred oxen was to be had within; but we met no private carriages, +nor, even in the neighbourhood of large towns, horsemen or pedestrians +above the rank of peasants. This is a circumstance so universal in every +part of France, that it becomes a mystery where the other classes of +society conceal themselves--on the promenades, in the streets and shops, +to see a well-dressed person is a prodigy, and the wonder is to whom the +goods are sold, which are certainly sparingly enough exhibited. + +We had looked forward to much pleasure in a visit to the ancient town +of Le Mans, and its treasure, the tomb of Berangere, for the discovery +of which, although a benefit unacknowledged, France and the curious are +indebted to the zeal and perseverance of the late lamented Stothard, who +sought for and found one of the most beautiful statues of the time under +a heap of corn in an old church formerly belonging to the convent of +Epau, but converted into a granary in 1820, when, by his entreaties and +resolution, the lost beauty was restored to daylight and honour. Not a +word of all this is, however, named by any French chronicler, although +Berangere is now the heroine and the boast of Le Mans, the object of +interest to travellers, the gem of the cathedral, and the pride of Le +Maine. + +Nothing can be more majestic, more imposing, or more magnificent than +the huge and massive building which towers above the town of Le Mans, +and now adorns one side of a wide handsome square, where convents, +churches, houses, and streets have been cleared away, without remorse, +to leave a free opening in front of this fine cathedral. The _place_ is +named _des Jacobins_, from one of the vanished monasteries, which a +beautiful theatre now replaces, one of the most elegant I ever saw in +France, and yet unopened, at the back of which spreads out a promenade +in terraces, the site of a Roman amphitheatre. All the houses round +this square are handsome, and a broad terrace before the arcades of the +theatre completes its good effect. Numerous flying buttresses and +galleries and figures combine to give lightness to the enormous bulk of +the cathedral, which, being without spires, would otherwise be heavy; +but the want of these graceful accessories is scarcely felt, so grand is +the general character given to it by the enormous square tower, which +appears to protect it, and the smaller ones, its satellites. Statues of +the countesses of Maine, of nuns, and queens, may still be seen in +niches at different heights of the tower, and the portals are enriched +with saints and bishops, angels and foliage astonishing the eye with +their elaborate grace and beauty. There are thirteen chapels projecting +from the main building, that which forms the termination towards the +square being the largest. One rose window is remarkable for the elegance +of its stone-work, and the form of all the windows is grand and +imposing. + +This glorious fabric, equal to that of Beauvais, which it resembles, and +more extensive, is sufficient of itself to render Le Mans interesting, +but it is a town full of objects that delight and please. The streets +are all wide, clean, and well-paved; there are good squares and handsome +houses; and its position on the pretty, clear river Sarthe, from which +the banks rise gracefully, crowned with foliage and adorned with towers +and churches, makes the place really charming. There is a promenade, +called Du Greffier, formed evidently on the ramparts of an old castle, +part of whose massive walls may still be traced among the trees, which +are planted in terraces above the river, whose water is as bright and +glittering as those of the Loire itself: green meadows and pretty _aits_ +adorn the stream, and the usual picturesque idleness of fishing is +carried on by its banks, while groups of wading washerwomen, in +high-coloured petticoats and white caps, enliven the little quays. + +The weather was very propitious while we were at Le Mans, and all +appeared attractive and agreeable, and we enjoyed our unwearied walks, +both in the environs, and in the town, extremely. Although there is a +great deal that is entirely new in the principal quarter of the town, +where our Hotel du Dauphin, in the spacious Place aux Halles, was +situated, yet, to the antiquarian, there is no lack of interest in the +antique parts, where much of the original city remains even as it might +have been in the earliest times. Roman walls and towers extend in every +direction between the three bridges of Ysoir, St. Jean, and Napoleon; +and, in the old quartiers of Gourdaine and du Pre, arches, pillars, and +ruins, attest the antiquity of the spot. We hesitated not to enter these +singular old streets, where the lowest of the population reside, and, +as is almost invariable in France, we always found civility and a +cheerful readiness to afford us information. The inquisitive stranger is +generally, however, obliged, after going through several of the narrow +ways which excite his curiosity, to abandon his search after uncertain +antiquities, from the inodorous accompaniments which are sure to assail +him; and so it was with us when we had visited the Rue _Danse Renard_, +Rue _de la Truie qui File_, _Vert Galant_, the _Grande_ and _Petite +Poterne_, &c. We found ourselves wandering in circles, amongst dwellings +that looked as if they must be the same inhabited by the original +Gaulish inhabitants, and at length, anxious to pay our daily devotions +at the shrine of Berangere, we ventured on the ascent of an apparently +interminable flight of stone steps, between immensely high massive +walls, called _Les Pans de Gorron_. + +We paused every now and then, on our ascent, to wonder at the appearance +of the town, of which, and the river, we caught glimpses at intervals, +and to gaze upwards at the strange old Roman walls above us, and the +high houses, some with five and six rows of windows in their shelving +roofs. At length, after considerable toil, we reached the platform where +once stood the chateau, and where still stands a curious building, all +towers and tourelles, some ugly, and some of graceful form, the latter +apparently of the period of Charles VI. Immediately before the steps in +the square above us rose the cathedral, which we came upon unawares; +and, exactly in front of us, in an angle, partly concealed by the broad +shadow, we perceived a figure so mysterious, so remarkable, that it was +impossible not to create in the mind of a beholder the most interesting +speculations. This extraordinary figure deserves particular description, +and I hope it may be viewed by some person more able than myself to +explain it, or one more fortunate than I was in obtaining information +respecting it. To all the questions I asked of the dwellers in Le Mans, +the answers were exclamations of surprise at a stranger having noticed +that which had never been remarked at all by any one of the passers by, +who classed it with the stones of the church or the posts of the square. +Yet surely the antiquarian will not be indifferent to the treasure +which, it appears to me, he should hail with as much delight as the +discovery of a Druidical monument or a Roman pavement. + +Seated in an angle of the exterior walls of the cathedral, on a rude +stone, is a reddish looking block, which has all the appearance of a +veiled priest, covered with a large mantle, which conceals his hands and +face. The height of the figure is about eight feet as it sits; the feet, +huge unformed masses, covered with what seems drapery, are supported on +a square pedestal, which is again sustained by one larger, which +projects from the angle of the building. The veil, the ample mantle, and +two under-garments, all flowing in graceful folds, and defining the +shape, may be clearly distinguished. No features are visible, nor are +the limbs actually apparent, except through the uninterrupted waving +lines of the drapery, or what may be called so. A part of the side of +what seems the head has been sliced off, otherwise the block is entire. +It would scarcely appear to have been sculptured, but has the effect of +one of those sports of Nature in which she delights to offer +representations of forms which the fancy can shape into symmetry. + +There is something singularly Egyptian about the form of this swathed +figure, or it is like those Indian idols, whose contours are scarcely +defined to the eye; it is so wrapped up in mystery, and is so surrounded +with oblivion, that the mind is lost in amazement in contemplating it. +Did it belong to a worship long since swept away?--was it a god of the +Gauls, or a veiled Jupiter?--how came it squeezed in between two walls +of the great church, close to the ground, yet supported by steps?--why +was it not removed on the introduction of a purer worship?--how came it +to escape destruction when saints and angels fell around?--who placed it +there, and for what purpose?--will no zealous antiquarian, on his way +from a visit to the wondrous circle of Carnac and the gigantic Dolmens +of Saumur, pause at Le Mans, at this obscure corner of the cathedral, +opposite the huge Pans de Gorron, and tell the world the meaning of this +figure with the stone veil? + + * * * * * + +Since I left Le Mans, a friend, who resided there some years, informs me +the tradition respecting this stone is, that an _English Giant_ brought +the block from the banks of the river, up the steep ascent of the Pans +de Gorron, and cast it from his shoulders against the wall of the +cathedral, where it now stands. + +Imagination may easily, here in the country, where the sage bard, the +great Merlin, or Myrdhyn, lived, induce the belief that this mysterious +stone represents the Druid lover of the fatal Viviana;--may this not be +the very stone brought from Brociliande, within, or under, which he is +in durance; or rather is not this himself transformed to stone? Thus +runs the tradition:-- + +THE DRUID LOVER. + +"Myrdhyn the Druid still sleeps under a stone in a forest in Brittany; +his Viviana is the cause; she wished to prove his power, and asked the +sage the fatal word which could enchain him; he, who knew all things, +was aware of the consequences, yet he could not resist her entreaties; +he told her the spell, and, to gratify her, condemned himself to eternal +oblivion." + + I know to tell the fatal word + Is sorrow evermore-- + I know that I that boon accord + Whole ages will deplore. + Though I be more than mortal wise, + And all is clear to gifted eyes; + And endless pain and worlds of woe + May from my heedless passion flow, + Yet thou hast power all else above,-- + Sense, reason, wisdom, yield to love. + + I look upon thine eyes of light, + And feel that all besides is night; + I press that snowy hand in mine, + And but contemn my art divine. + Oh Viviana! I am lost; + A life's renown thy smile hath cost. + A stone no ages can remove + Will be my monument of love; + A nation's wail shall mourn my fate, + My country will be desolate: + + Heav'n has no pardon left for me, + Condemn'd--undone--destroy'd--by thee! + Thy tears subdue my soul, thy sighs + Efface all other memories. + I have no being but in thee; + My thirst for knowledge is forgot, + And life immortal would but be + A load of care, where thou wert not. + + Wouldst thou but turn away those eyes + I might be saved--I might be wise. + I might recal my reason still + But for that tongue's melodious thrill! + Oh! wherefore was my soul replete + With wisdom, knowledge, sense, and power, + Thus to lie prostrate at thy feet, + And lose them all in one weak hour! + But no--I argue not--'tis past-- + Thus to be thine, belov'd by thee, + I seek but this, even to the last, + For all besides is vain to me. + I gaze upon thy radiant brow, + And do not ask a future now. + + Thou hast the secret! speak not yet! + Soon shall I gaze myself to stone, + Soon shall I all but thee forget, + And perish to be thine alone. + Ages on ages shall decline, + But Myrdhyn shall be ever thine! + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + TOMB OF BERANGERE--WIVES OF COEUR DE LION--TOMBS--ABBEY + CHURCHES--CHATEAU OF LE MANS--DE CRAON--THE SPECTRE OF LE MANS--THE + VENDEEANS--MADAME DE LA ROCHE-JAQUELIN--A WOMAN'S PERILS--DISASTERS + OF THE VENDEEANS--HENRI--CHOUANS. + + +HOWEVER interesting the exterior of the Cathedral of St. Julien may be, +the interior entirely corresponds with it. The windows of painted glass +are of the very first order, and of surpassing beauty, nearly entire, +and attributed to Cimabue. The double range in the choir, seen through +the _grille_, or from the exterior aisle--for there are two on each +side--present a magnificent _coup d'oeil_. The architecture is of +different periods; specimens may be observed belonging to the 12th +century and reaching to the 17th; but some of the finest is that of the +Norman era; the zigzags of the portals, and the billets, rose +mouldings, &c., being of peculiar delicacy and boldness. There is a +great deal of ornament composed of those extravagant forms of animals +which, at a distance, are confounded with the foliage to which they are +attached, but which, viewed nearly, are mysteriously extraordinary. The +circular arch reigns throughout, but many in _ogive_ also occur in +different parts. The arcades and galleries of the choir are of the +utmost delicacy and elegance of form; but the chief attraction is the +tomb of the widow of Richard Coeur de Lion, placed in one of the wings +of the cross. The Lady Chapel is undergoing repair, and is being +restored in the very best style. The new screen is beautiful, and the +figures of the Virgin and Child in very good taste, as are all the +ornaments, which exactly follow the fine originals. The exterior repairs +are carried on with equal skill; and this precious monument will soon be +in perfect order. + +As I looked at the pure, dignified, and commanding outline of the face +of Berangere, she appeared to me to have been a fitting wife for the +hero whose effigy had inspired me with so much admiration when I visited +it a few years since, at Fontevraud. Her nose is slightly aquiline, her +upper lip short and gracefully curved, her chin beautifully rounded, as +are her cheeks; her eyebrows are clearly marked, and her eye full though +not large; but, even in stone, it has a tender, soft expression, +extremely pleasing, and there is a sadness about the mouth which answers +well to the tenderness of the eye. The forehead is of just proportion, +and shaded by a frill which passes across, over which an ample veil is +drawn: the whole confined by a diadem, the only part of the statue +rather indistinct. Round her fine majestic throat is a band, to which a +large ornament is attached, which rests on her chest; her head reclines +on an embroidered pillow; her drapery falls over her figure and round +her clasped hands in graceful folds, and the dog and lion at her feet +complete the whole of this charming statue, which is of workmanship +equal to that of the exquisite _four_ in the little vault at +Fontevraud.[2] + +Berangere was daughter of Sancho VI., king of Navarre--not, as some +historians say, a princess of Castile or Arragon. After Richard's death, +Philip-Augustus confirmed to her the dominion of Maine, in exchange for +part of Normandy, which had been settled on her as her dower. She lived +for more than twenty years in the town of Le Mans, where her memory was +long preserved as _La Bonne Reine Berangere_. She founded the monastery +of Epau, near Le Mans, where the mausoleum was erected which now adorns +the Cathedral of St. Julien. + +[Footnote 2: See a description of the statues of Coeur de Lion, Henry +and Elionor, and Isabella of Angouleme, in "A Summer amongst the Bocages +and the Vines."] + +Two houses are pointed out in the Grande Rue, said to have formed part +of her palace; and the singularity of the ornaments which can be traced +amidst their architecture, makes it probable that the tradition is not +incorrect. + +The abbey of Epau formerly stood about half a league from Le Mans, on +the banks of the river Huisne, in the midst of a fertile plain; the +widow of Richard founded it, in 1230, for Bernardins of the order of +Citeaux. + +The inhabitants of Le Mans destroyed the monastery, after the battle of +Poitiers, in 1365, fearing that the English would take possession of it +and render it a place of defence; and it was reconstructed early in the +fifteenth century. The church alone remains, which, after the +Revolution, was desecrated, as has been related, and the tomb of the +foundress treated so unceremoniously. + +There seems a question, which has not yet been fully resolved, as to the +identity of the wives of Richard; by some authors a certain Rothilde, +otherwise called Berangere of Arragon, is described as his queen; who, +"owing to some misunderstanding, caused a part of the city of Limoges to +be destroyed, and salt strewn amongst the ruins; three days after which +she died, and was buried under the belfry of the abbey of St. Augustine, +in 1189 or 1190. Her mausoleum and statue were afterwards placed +there." + +This could scarcely be _our_ Berangere of Navarre, since mention is made +of her in public acts as late as 1234. In the annals of Aquitaine, by +Bouchet, it is set forth, that, "in 1160, Henry, Duke of Aquitaine, and +Raimond, Count of Barcelona, being at Blaye, on the Gironde, made and +swore an alliance, by which Richard, surnamed Coeur de Lion, second son +of the said Henry, was to marry the daughter of the said Raimond, when +she should be old enough, and Henry promised to give, on the occasion of +the said marriage, the duchy of Aquitaine to his son. This Raimond was +rich and powerful, being Count of Barcelona in his own right, and King +of Arragon in right of his wife." The Princess Alix of France--about +whose detention from him, Richard afterwards quarrelled with his +father--never became his wife; but whether it is she who is meant by the +queen buried at Limoges, in 1190, does not appear. + +That he married Berangere in 1191, in the island of Cyprus, seems an +ascertained fact; and that she died at Le Mans appears also certain; but +whether Richard really had two wedded wives it is difficult to +determine. + +On the Monday of Pentecost, the Abbey of Epau was for centuries the +scene of a grand festival, in honour of the patron saint, and the +ceremony was continued, to a late period, of passing the day there in +gaiety and amusement. All the families of the neighbourhood sought the +spot on foot, and every kind of country entertainment was resorted to. +Although the object is now changed, an expedition to the remains of the +Abbey of Epau is still a favourite one with the inhabitants of Le Mans; +it is a kind of _Longchamps_, where all the fashion and gaiety of the +town is displayed. + +The only tombs, besides that of Berangere, remaining in the cathedral of +Le Mans, are those in white marble, of Charles of Anjou, Count of Maine +and King of Jerusalem and Sicily, who died in 1472. Opposite this, is a +finely-sculptured tomb, worthy of the school of Jean Goujon, of Langey +du Bellay; the carving of the fruits and flowers which adorn it is +attributed to Germain Pilon. There is some good carving, also, in a +neighbouring chapel, by Labarre, done in 1610; but little else of this +kind remarkable in the church; all the other tombs of countesses, dukes, +and princes, having long since disappeared. However, Berangere, perhaps, +appears to the greater advantage, reigning, as she does, in solitary +grandeur in this magnificent retreat. + +The abbey churches of La Couture and Du Pre, are fine specimens of early +architecture. In the chapel of the former, an inscription was once to be +found on the walls, to the memory of a certain innkeeper and postilion, +who, wishing that his name should be handed down to posterity, had set +forth the fact of his having conducted the carriages of four kings of +France, and after passing sixty-four years as a married man, died in +1509: he adds a prayer to this important record, that Heaven would +provide a second husband for his widow, whose age appears to have +reached not less than _sixteen lustres_. The subterranean church of La +Couture is very remarkable, and is, no doubt, of Roman construction; the +capitals of the pillars are extremely curious, and its height and +dryness are peculiar. The famous warrior, Helie de la Fleche, so often +named in the wars of the eleventh century, was here buried; and here, it +is said, was deposited the body of the blessed St. Bertrand. It is a +very grand and interesting church in all its parts, and preserves some +curious memorials of Roman and early Norman architecture. + +The abbey church of Du Pre is equally curious, and its circular arches, +strange capitals, niches and ornaments, prove its extraordinary +antiquity. + +There are a great many houses still existing in the oldest part of Le +Mans which retain part of their original sculpture, and are of great +antiquity, though it is not likely that they reach so far back as the +time of Berangere, or La Reine Blanche, as she is traditionally +called--a designation always given to the widowed queens of France. + +The house in the Grande Rue--one of the most dilapidated streets in the +town--said to have formed part of her palace, is now divided into two +poulterers' shops; and when we visited it, the chamber called that of +the widow of Coeur de Lion, was occupied by seven women, not employed in +weaving tapestry or stringing pearls, but in plucking fowls. The +chimney-piece is curious, adorned with two fine medallions of male +heads, in high relief, very boldly executed. The outside of the house +has some curious carving of eagles with expanded wings, strange +monkey-shaped figures, lions _couchant_, crosslets and scrolls; but the +facade is so much destroyed, that it is difficult to connect any of +these ornaments. The crosslets were the arms of Jerusalem, of which the +counts of Anjou called themselves kings; but to what period all these +sculptures belong it is difficult to say. + +The Grande Rue is full of these remains; in the Rue des Chanoines, some +circular-arched windows, ornamented with roses, stars, and _toothed_ +carving, indicate that here once stood the church founded by St. Aldric, +in the ninth century; and some pieces of wall and brick still prove its +original Roman construction. + +In the Place St. Michel, a stone house of ancient date is shown as +having been inhabited by Scarron; and in almost every street of the old +town, some curious bits, worthy of an artist's attention, may be found; +but the search after them is somewhat fatiguing, and involves a visit to +not the most agreeable part of the pretty city: all of which is +interesting, whether new or old. + +Of the once famous Chateau of Le Mans, erected long before the time of +William the Conqueror, who destroyed it in part, nothing now remains but +the Pans de Gorron, and a few _tourelles_. Yet it was, in the turbulent +times when such fortresses were required, a place of enormous strength; +and its two forts, one called Mont Barbet, and one Motte Barbet, defied +many an attack. + +It appears that the Manceaux were impatient of the yoke of the +_conquering hero_, who endeavoured to make all the territory his own +which approached his domains; and three times they gave him the trouble +of besieging their town; he, at length, having raised fortifications +sufficient to intimidate them, placed in command in the chateau a +female, whose warlike attainments had rendered her famous even in those +days of prowess. She was an English woman by birth, the widow of a +Norman knight, and called Orbrindelle. The fort in which she took up her +head quarters, and from whence she sent forth the terror of her power, +was called after her; but, by corruption, was afterwards named +Ribaudelle. + +This castle was destroyed by royal order in 1617, and at its demolition +several Roman monuments and inscriptions were found on the walls and +beneath the foundations. + +King John of France was born in the Chateau of Le Mans, and several +monarchs made it their temporary abode. The Black Prince sojourned +within its walls till Duguesclin, the great captain, disturbed his +repose. The unfortunate Charles VI., whom fate persecuted to the ruin of +France, was at Le Mans when that fearful event occurred to him, which +decided his future destiny. From the alleys of a great forest, now no +longer existing, issued forth that mysterious vision which no sage has +yet entirely explained. It is impossible to be at Le Mans, without +recollecting the curious story connected with the poor young king, +though the town is too light and cheerful-looking at the present day, to +allow of its being a fitting scene either for so gloomy a legend, or for +the sad events which modern days brought forth within its precincts. + +The circumstances which caused the madness of the son of Charles the +Wise, may not, perhaps, be immediately present to the reader's mind: +they were as follows:-- + +Pierre de Craon, lord of Sable and Ferte Bernard, an intriguing man, who +held a high place in the consideration of Mary of Brittany, the regent +of Anjou and Maine in the absence of her husband, who was prosecuting +his designs against Naples and Sicily, had proved himself a faithless +treasurer of large sums of money confided to him by his mistress; which +sums had been wrung from the two provinces of Maine and Anjou. De Craon +had dissipated this money in extravagance, instead of supplying the +army of Prince Louis, who died in consequence of disappointed hope and +his unsuccessful struggles. The traitor made his appearance in Paris +without fear; for he was protected by the powerful duke of Orleans, +brother of the king. + +Shortly afterwards, however, having had a dispute with the Constable, +Olivier de Clisson, he laid wait for him, accompanied by a set of +wretches in his pay, and fell upon the great captain unawares, wounding +him in the head, and leaving him for dead. After this cowardly exploit, +De Craon fled, and threw himself under the protection of the Duke of +Brittany, who, although not his accomplice, was weak enough to take his +part. + +Pierre de Craon was condemned for contumacy; several of his people were +punished with death, in particular a poor curate of Chartres, who was +entirely innocent: his dwelling was razed to the ground, and its site +given to a neighbouring church for a cemetery: and the Duke of Brittany +was summoned by King Charles to deliver up the craven knight to justice. + +This command, however, was treated with contempt, and the king +accordingly put himself at the head of his troops, and set forth to +attack the duke: it was at Le Mans that he arrived with his army. + +Charles was greatly excited, and his nerves appear to have been agitated +at this time, owing to various causes. The weather was intensely hot, +and the sun struck full upon him as he rode in advance of his army, +surrounded by his guard of honour. He entered the Forest of Le Mans, and +was proceeding down one of its glades, when suddenly a gigantic black +figure, wild, haggard, and with hair floating in dishevelled masses over +his face, darted suddenly from a deep recess, and, seizing the bridle of +the king's horse, cried out, in a sepulchral voice, "Hold, +king!--whither ride you?--go no further!--you are betrayed!" and +instantly disappeared amidst the gloomy shades of the wood, before any +one had time to lay hands on him. + +Charles did not turn back, but continued his way in silence; he emerged +from the forest on to a wide sandy plain, where the heat was almost +intolerable, and where there was nothing to shelter him from the burning +rays. A page was riding near him, who, overcome with fatigue, slept in +his saddle, and let the lance he held fall violently on the helmet of +one of his companions. The sharp sound this occasioned roused the king +from his gloomy reverie: he started in sudden terror; his brain was +confused and heated; he imagined that the accomplishment of the +spectre's denunciation was at hand, and, losing his senses altogether, +he drew his sword, and, with a wild cry, rushed forward, hewing down all +before him, and galloping distractedly across the plain, till, +exhausted by fatigue and excitement, he fell from his horse in a swoon. + +He was instantly surrounded by his people, raised from the ground, and +conveyed with all care to Le Mans, where he remained till he was thought +sufficiently recovered to be removed to Paris. + +The storm about to fall on the head of the Duke of Brittany was thus +turned aside, and the troops who had received orders to attack him were +withdrawn. Whether this was a scene got up by the Duke of Brittany, in +order to work on the diseased mind of the unfortunate monarch, or was +merely the effect of an accidental meeting with a maniac, or whether the +king's uncles, who disapproved of his just indignation at De Craon's +conduct, had arranged the whole, it is impossible to say: but poor +Charles was surrounded by traitors, foreign and domestic, and evidently +had no good physician at hand, whose timely skill might have saved years +of misery and bloodshed to France. + +Throughout the deadly wars of the League, and the contentions between +Catholic and Protestant, which desolated France, Le Mans and the whole +of the department of Maine took a prominent part, and its streets, +houses, churches, and villages were burnt and destroyed over and over +again. The last stand of the unfortunate Vendeeans was at Le Mans. "Sad +and fearful is the story" of the fight there, as it is told by Madame +de la Roche-Jaquelin, whose pictures draw tears from every eye, and +whose narrative, read at Le Mans, is melancholy indeed. + +After dreadful fatigues and varying fortune, during which the devoted +town was taken and retaken several times, the harassed Vendeeans, more +remarkable for their valour than their prudence, remained in possession +of the town on the night of the 10th of December, 1793, and gave +themselves up to the repose which they so much needed, but without +arranging any means of security, though a vigilant enemy was on the +watch to take advantage of their state. They abandoned themselves, with +characteristic superstition, to the care of Heaven alone; placing no +sentinels, no out-posts, no guard whatever: and, although the next day +the chiefs visited the town and its issues, no precaution was taken +against the possibility of an attack,--no measures to secure a retreat, +nor council held as to whither their course should be directed in case +of such a necessity. The time was consumed in disputes, as to whether +the wearied Vendeean army should pursue its transient success, and go on +to Paris, or yield to the desire of the generality of the soldiers, and +return to their beloved home, by crossing the Loire, which so many +regretted ever to have passed. It appears that there were from sixty to +seventy thousand persons in Le Mans, of the royalist party; including +women, children, and servants, with baggage and money to a large amount. + +The republican army, commanded by Marceau and Westermann, surprised the +town at night. In spite of the active bravery of La Roche-Jaquelin, and +the energy he displayed when the danger was so apparent, a fearful +slaughter ensued. Street by street, and square by square, the Vendeeans +disputed every inch of ground, till the corpses of the slain lay in +heaps in the narrow ways; every house was a fortress,--every lane a pass +desperately defended. The intrepid young leader had two horses killed +under him, and was obliged to absent himself a moment to seek for +others. No sooner did his people lose sight of him than a panic took +possession of them; they thought all lost,--became confused and +disordered. Many of them, waked from sleep, or from a state of +inebriety, in which the Britons are too apt to indulge, horrified at the +shrieks of their women, stunned by the sound of the cannon, which roared +through the dark streets, and startled at the glare of artillery +suddenly blazing around them,--entirely lost all presence of mind, and +fled in every direction; killing and wounding friends and foes in their +precipitous retreat. Horses, waggons, and dead bodies impeded their +flight, and Le Mans was one scene of carnage and terror. Their leaders +stood their ground, and kept the great square of Le Mans for more than +four hours, performing prodigies of valour. But the republicans at last +were victors: and horribly did they pursue their advantage; sparing +neither age nor sex, and exulting in the most atrocious cruelties. The +peasants of Le Mans and its environs, taking part with the stronger +side, pursued the vanquished with disgraceful energy, and murdered the +unfortunate Vendeeans in the woods and fields, and in every retreat +where those devoted people sought shelter and safety. + +The state of the unfortunate women, whose husbands, sons, and fathers +were being slaughtered with every volley which rung in their ears, is +horrible to imagine. Madame de la Roche-Jaquelin thus describes her own +position in moving language: + +"From the beginning, we foresaw the result of the struggle. I was lodged +at the house of a lady who was very rich, very refined, but a great +republican. She had a large family, whom she tenderly loved, and whom +she carefully attended. I resolved to confide my daughter to her, as one +of her relations had already taken charge of little Jagault. I entreated +her to protect her,--to bring her up as a mere peasant only,--to instil +into her mind sentiments of honour and virtue. I said that, should she +be destined to resume the position in which she was born, I should +thank Heaven for its mercy; but I resigned myself to all, provided she +was virtuously brought up. She assured me that, if she took my child, +she would educate her with her own. I used all the arguments a mother +could in such circumstances, and was interrupted by the cry that +announced retreat. She quitted me instantly; and I, losing at once all +hope, but trusting at least to save my daughter's life, placed her +secretly in the bed of the mistress of the family, certain that she +could not have the cruelty to abandon the innocent little creature. I +then descended the stairs: I was placed on horseback; the gate was +opened; I saw the square filled with a flying, pressing crowd, and in an +instant I was separated from every one I knew. I perceived M. Stofflet, +who was carrying the colours: I took advantage of his presence to try to +find the road; I followed him across the square, which I supposed was +the way; I kept close to the houses; and at length reached the street +which led in the direction I sought, towards the road of Laval. But I +found it impossible to advance; the concourse was too great,--it was +stifling: carts, waggons, cannon, were overturned; bullocks lay +struggling on the ground, unable to rise, and striking out at all who +approached them. The cries of persons trodden underfoot echoed +everywhere. I was fainting with hunger and terror: I could scarcely see; +for daylight was nearly closed. At the corner of a street I perceived +two horses tied to a stake, and they completely barred my passage; the +crowd pressed them against me; and I was squeezed between them and the +wall: I screamed to the soldiers to take and ride off with them; but my +voice was not heard or attended to. A young man on horseback passed by +me, with a mild and sad countenance: I cried out to him, catching his +hand, 'Oh! sir, have pity on a poor woman, near her confinement, and +perishing with want and fatigue: I can go no further.' The stranger +burst into tears, and replied: 'I am a woman, too: we shall perish +together; for nothing can penetrate into yonder street.' We both +remained expecting our fate. + +"In the meantime, the faithful Bontemps, servant of M. de Lescure, not +seeing my daughter, sought for her everywhere,--found her at length, and +carried her off in his arms. He followed me, perceived me in the crowd, +and called out, 'I have saved my master's child!' I hung down my head, +and resigned myself to the worst. In a moment after I saw another of my +servants: I called to him; he caught my horse by the bridle; and, +cutting his way with his sabre, we entered the street. With incredible +trouble, we reached a little bridge in the faubourg, on the road to +Laval: a cannon was overturned upon it, and stopped up the way: at +length we got by, and I found myself in the road; where I paused, with +many others. Some officers were there, trying to rally their soldiers; +but all their efforts were useless. + +"The republicans, hearing a noise where we were, turned their cannon +upon us from the height of the houses. A bullet whizzed past my head: a +moment afterwards a fresh discharge startled me; and, involuntarily, I +bent myself low upon my horse. An officer near reproached me bitterly +for my cowardice. 'Alas!' replied I, 'it is excusable in a wretched +woman to crouch down when a whole army has taken to flight!' In fact, +the firing continued so violently that all of our people who had paused +recommenced flying for their lives. Had it been daylight, perhaps they +might have been recalled. + +"A few leagues from Le Mans, I beheld the arrival of my father. He and +Henri had been for a long time vainly endeavouring to reanimate the +soldiers. Henri hurried towards me, exclaiming, 'You are saved!'--'I +thought you were lost," cried I, 'since we are beaten.' He wrung my +hand, saying, 'I would I were dead!' + +"About twelve leagues from Le Mans, I stopped in a village: a great part +of the army had also halted there. There was scarcely any one in the +cottages: the road was covered with poor wretches, who, fainting with +fatigue, were sleeping in the mud, without heeding the pelting rain. The +rout of Le Mans cost the lives of fifteen thousand persons. The greatest +part were not killed in the battle; many were crushed to death in the +streets of Le Mans; others, wounded and sick, remained in the houses, +and were massacred. They died in the ditches and the fields: a great +number fled on the road to Alencon, were there taken, and conducted to +the scaffold. + + * * * * * + +"Such was the deplorable defeat of Le Mans, where the Vendeean army +received a mortal blow: it was an inevitable fatality. The day that they +quitted the left bank of the Loire, with a nation of women, children, +and old people, to seek an asylum in a country unknown, without being +aware what route they should take, at the beginning of winter, it was +easy to foretell that we should conclude by this terrible catastrophe. +The greatest glory that our generals and soldiers can claim is that they +retarded its accomplishment so long. + +"The unfortunate and intrepid Henri did not abandon his cause till not a +hope was left; and even at the last he lingered at Le Mans, and fought +desperately in the Place de l'Eperon, establishing a battery of cannon +which long kept the enemy at bay. But all was unavailing, and he yielded +to necessity. He arrived at Laval at the close of day, spent and +exhausted, and entered a house where he entreated to be allowed to rest. +He was warned that he might run the risk of being surprised by +Westermann,--'My greatest want,' said he, 'is not to live, but to +sleep.'" + +The Vendeeans had left behind them so much gold and merchandize, so much +furniture, and such precious possessions, that, far from these sad +events being a cause of ruin to the inhabitants of Le Mans, they were +the means of establishing prosperity in the town in many instances, and +its commercial influence increased very sensibly from that period. It is +at this moment a town which appears in a very flourishing state, and is +on the whole one of the most agreeable and interesting in this part of +France. + +The misfortunes and troubles which the ill-fated army of royalists +experienced, did not prevent their renewal a few years after, when the +sad events of the wars of the Chouans brought back all the miseries +which the desolated country was but little able to contend with. + +However high-sounding the supposed motives might be which re-illumed the +war, it is now generally acknowledged that only a few enthusiastic men +acted from a sense of honour and patriotism: the greatest part being +influenced by less worthy ideas. Had it not been so, the excesses +committed by the Chouans would never have disgraced the annals of +warfare: wretches without religion, morality, or feeling, mere brigands +and marauders, under the sacred banner of patriotism, ravaged the +country, burning, torturing, and destroying, pillaging, and committing +every crime, dignified meantime by the appellation of heroes, which one +or two amongst them might have deserved if they had fought in better +company, and been better directed. It is strange that any one, +particularly at the present day, can be found to magnify into heroism +the misguided efforts of a set of turbulent school-boys, who, again, at +a later period, were made the tools of villains for their own purposes +of plunder; yet, very recently, works have appeared in which the _petite +Chouannerie_ is exalted into a praiseworthy community. Pity for the +sacrificed children who were betrayed, and the bereaved mothers who wept +over the disobedience of their sons, is all that belongs to those +concerned in the useless revolt which caused ruin to so many. + +"The intention of the Chouans in taking arms," says M. de Scepeaux, in +his letters on the Chouans of Bas-Maine, "was to _defend and preserve_, +not _to attack and destroy_; and, like the soldiers of Pelayo, who kept +the rocks of Asturias as a last stronghold against their besiegers, the +Chouans made their Bocages a last asylum for the French monarchy." This +is a fine _phrase_, but the facts are very far removed from this +assertion. The Chouans were a terror and a scourge to their +fellow-citizens: farms burnt, unoffending citizens robbed and murdered, +all their possessions seized on and appropriated, stabbing in the dark, +and cowardly cruelties of all kinds characterized these "honourable +men," who were _guerillas_ and nothing more. They took names such as in +former times distinguished the bands of brigands who were the terror of +the middle ages, and their acts rendered the similitude more striking. +Some of these chiefs signed themselves, Joli-coeur, Sans-peur, +Monte-a-l'assaut, Bataillon, &c. + +It was a fearful time, and violence and cruelty reigned triumphant +whichever party took the field. The province of Le Maine suffered +severely in the struggle. Le Mans was again the scene of contention, and +the streets of the town the theatre of slaughter. + +Who, to look at the quiet, tranquil town now, would think how much it +has suffered! and who but must feel indignant at the pretended patriot +who is not grateful to the existing government, under whose wise sway +the cities of France are recovering their beauty and importance after +long years of torture and desolation! + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + THE MUSEUM OF LE MANS--VENUS--MUMMY--GEOFFREY LE BEL--HIS + COSTUME--MATILDA--SCARRON--HELIE DE LA FLECHE--RUFUS--THE WHITE + KNIGHT. + + +THE Museum of Le Mans is in the Hotel de la Prefecture, and as we heard +that the famous enamel of Geoffrey Plantagenet, formerly on his tomb in +the cathedral, was preserved there, we hastened to behold so interesting +a remain of early art. A remarkably obtuse female was the exhibitor on +the occasion, and, on my asking her to point out the treasure, she took +me to a collection of Roman coins and medals, assuring me they were very +old and very curious. It was impossible not to agree with her, and to +regard these coins with interest, particularly as they were all found in +the immediate neighbourhood of Le Mans; however, as a glance at them was +sufficient, we proceeded to examine all the cases, hoping to discover +the object of our search. + +We were arrested before a case filled with objects of art found +principally at the ruins of Alonnes, near Le Mans, which commune is a +perfect emporium of Roman curiosities, where no labourer directs his +plough across a field, or digs a foot deep in his garden, without +finding statues, pillars, baths, medals, &c., in heaps. All these things +are of fine workmanship, and thence, lately, two little wonders have +been rescued from oblivion, which are really gems. One is a small female +bust of white marble, perfect, and of singular grace; the other the +entire figure, having only one arm wanting, of a Venus twenty-one inches +high, and of exquisite proportion; she sits on the trunk of a tree; her +beauty is incomparable, and she must owe her birth to an artist of very +superior genius. + +As if to prove how worthless is that beauty which attracts and rivets +the attention, even in stone, close by is one of the finest and most +perfectly-preserved female mummies I ever beheld,--hideous in its +uninjured state, grinning fearfully with its rows of fine ivory teeth a +little broken, glaring with its still prominent eyes, and appalling with +its blackened skin drawn over the high cheekbones. Why might not this +carefully-attended and richly-adorned queen be the beautiful and fatal +"serpent of old Nile"--the fascinating Cleopatra herself? + +The features are fine and delicate in spite of the horrible hue of the +skin, and though it revolts the mind at first, one can even fancy that +mass of horror might, in life, have been beautiful. This valuable +specimen was brought from Egypt by M. Edouard de Montule, a zealous and +enterprising young traveller, too early snatched from science and the +world at the age of thirty-six. + +A gentleman, drawing in the museum, who had arrived after us, hearing +our questions to our guide, very politely stepped forward and offered to +show us the objects of interest which he saw we might otherwise miss. He +led us at once to the enamel we so much desired to see, and we had ample +time to contemplate one of the most remarkable curiosities of art which +perhaps exists anywhere. + +Geoffrey le Bel, surnamed Plantagenet, the second husband of the haughty +Empress Matilda, who considered her dignity compromised in being obliged +to marry a simple Count of Anjou, was, nevertheless, the handsomest man +of his day, and apparently one of the most distinguished _dandies_. +Jean, the monk of Marmontier, in his description of the fetes given by +the count at Rouen, speaks of the splendid habiliments of this +prince--of his _Spanish barb_, his helmet, his buckler, his lance of +_Poitou steel_, and his celebrated sword taken from the treasury of his +father, and renowned as the work of "the great _Galannus_, the most +expert of armourers." Even in this very guise does Geoffrey appear. + +He holds the sword, considered as magical, unsheathed in his right hand; +his shield or target covers his shoulders, and descends in a point to +his feet. It is charged azure, with four rampant golden leopards; only +the half of the shield appears, consequently all its blazonry is not +visible. He wears a sort of Phrygian cap ornamented with a golden +leopard; he has a dalmatic robe, and a capacious mantle edged with +ermine, his scarf and waistband are of the same form, and all are of +rich colours--red, green, and purple--such as appear in stained glass. +It is painted with great detail, and the features are very distinct; +they convey very little idea of beauty, but have sufficient character to +indicate likeness. The copy, which Stothard made with great care, is +extremely correct, much more so than the drawing he gave of Berangere, +whose beauty he entirely failed to represent: none but an accomplished +artist, indeed, could do so, and the indefatigable antiquarian, who lost +his life in his zeal for his pursuit, was more accustomed to the quaint +forms exhibited on windows and brasses. The inscription formerly to be +read beneath the effigy of Geoffrey, on the tomb, was as follows:-- + +"Thy sword, oh! Prince, has delivered our country from the hordes of +brigands who infested it, and given to the Church entire security under +the shadow of peace." + +There is something of melancholy and quiet about this portrait, which +accord with the character given of the prince by historians, who +represent him mild and good, generous, brave, and magnanimous; an +encourager of the arts and poetry, and a lover of order; but forced into +wars by the haughty temper of his wife, and obliged to distress his +subjects for supplies in consequence. His marriage with Matilda took +place in 1127, with great pomp, at Le Mans, in the palace of the Counts +of Anjou; and the solemnities attending it lasted for three weeks. All +the vassals of Henry I. of England, father of the bride, and of +Foulques, father of Geoffrey, were summoned to attend under pain of +being considered enemies of the public good. As Henry delayed putting +his son-in-law in possession of Normandy, as had been agreed on, Matilda +excited her husband to go to war with him, and a series of conflicts +ensued which entailed much misery on the country. + +Geoffrey le Bel died in 1151, of pleurisy, in consequence of bathing +imprudently in the Loire. His body was brought to Le Mans and buried in +the cathedral, and his son, the illustrious Henry II. of England, +succeeded him; a prince superior to his time, but destined to continued +vexations from his family and his friends. The proud Matilda, too,--so +like the haughty heiress of Aquitaine,--need not have murmured at the +lot which made her mother and grandmother of such kings as Henry and +Coeur de Lion. + +The pictures in the museum of Le Mans possess no sort of merit: there is +a series of paintings coarsely done from the "Roman Comique" of Scarron, +representing the principal scenes in his strange work; but they have no +other value than that of having been painted at the period when he was +popular, and being placed there in consequence of his having resided at +Le Mans, though I believe it was not the place of his birth. It was +here, at all events, that his imprudence caused his own misfortune; for +in the exuberance of his gaiety, he resolved, on occasion of a fete, +which annually takes place on the route of Pontlieue, to amuse himself +and the Manceaux, by a childish exhibition of himself _as a bird_. To +this end, he actually smeared himself with honey, and then having rolled +in feathers, and assumed as much as possible the plumed character he +wished to represent, he sallied forth and joined the procession +astonishing all beholders; but he had not reckoned on the effect his +appearance would produce on the boys of the parish, ever ready for +mischief. Delighted at such an opportunity, they pursued the unfortunate +wit without mercy, pelting and chasing him. His fear of being +recognised, and his anxiety to escape them, caused him to fly for +refuge, heated as he was with his extraordinary exertions, under an arch +of the old bridge, where he was exposed to a severe draught. The cold +struck to his limbs, and the consequence was that he became paralysed +for the rest of his life, an affliction which he names at the beginning +of his famous romance. + +The commune of Alonnes, from whence so many antique treasures are +derived, is about a league from Le Mans, and is looked upon with much +superstitious veneration by the inhabitants of the neighbouring +villages. Not only are fine Roman remains discovered there, but, by the +rude pottery continually turned up, it appears to have been a +considerable city of the Gauls; for the singular forms exhibited on +their vases and stones are altogether different from those of a more +refined people. To neither of these nations, however, was Alonnes +supposed to belong, but to one more powerful and mysterious still: no +other than the fairies, who may, even now, on moon-light nights, be seen +hovering round their _Tour aux fees_, of which a few stones alone +remain. A subterranean way (aqueduct) is supposed to have communicated +with the ancient castle; and no doubt its recesses are the scene of many +a midnight revel carried on by those unseen visitants of ruins. + +Numerous baths of Roman construction have been found, and more yet +remains to be discovered. About fifty years since, some workmen making +excavations observed the opening of a covered way which they followed +for some distance, expecting to find treasure. They had not gone far, +when they were surprised by suddenly entering vast chambers, covered +with the remains of columns, vases, and ornamental architecture: instead +of continuing their search, they were seized with a panic, and fled from +the spot without attempting to penetrate further. If more valorous +seekers were to prosecute the adventure, at the spot where they left it, +no doubt very interesting discoveries might be made, which would repay +the attempt. + +One of the chief heroes of Le Mans and Maine, and he who is the most +continually spoken of in its history, is Helie de la Fleche. He was one +of the most generous and valiant knights of his time, and to him his +supine and cowardly cousin, Hugues, tired of the frequent struggles +which he found it necessary to sustain in order to keep in possession of +his rights, resigned the dominion of Maine, much to the delight of the +Manceaux, who received their young lord with open arms. Helie showed +himself a friend to his new people, and entered into an alliance with +Geoffrey IV. Count of Anjou. After which, being ready to set out for the +crusades, according to the fashion of the times, and finding that Robert +of Normandy had already departed, he went to Rouen, to William Rufus, +in the hope of obtaining his acknowledgment of his rights to the county +of Maine. He, however, failed in this expectation, and put himself in +array to contend with this formidable adversary, in whose alliance was a +very unpleasant and dangerous neighbour, the perfidious Count of Belesme +and Baron du Saosnois, Robert II., called Talvas, generally known as +_Robert le Diable_. This treacherous prince laid a snare for Helie, into +which he fell, and he delivered him up to William Rufus. + +Kept prisoner at Rouen, and fearing that the Count of Anjou would enter +into an accommodation with William Rufus, which would compromise the +interests of his patrimony of La Fleche, which he knew had long been +coveted by those of Anjou, Helie made up his mind to treat for his +ransom, by which he consented to give up the province of Maine to the +King of England, and to do him homage for his lordship of La Fleche, as +his father had done before. He obtained his liberty at this price, and +was brought before William, who ordered the chains with which he was +bound to be removed, as Wace relates-- + + "Dunc le fist li Reis amener + Et des _buies_ le fist oster." + +He then offered to attach himself to William, as one of his most +faithful officers; but this being declined, murmurs escaped him, which +roused the king's anger, as the old chronicler has recounted. + + "Count Helie's steed he ordered forth, + With housings dight of regal worth; + 'Mount straight, sir knight, and go,' he cried; + 'Wherever it may list you ride, + But guard you well another tide. + My prison shall be deep and strong + If you again my thrall should be, + And trust me 'twill be late and long + Ere, once my captive, you are free. + In future, Count, I bid you know + I am your ever-ready foe; + Where'er you go, it shall not lack, + But William shall be on your back!' + + I know not if Count Helie found + Words to reply. He turned him round, + And little he delayed, I ween, + To make their distance great between!" + +As might be anticipated, Helie was not content to sit down patiently +with so bad a bargain as he had made. He had yielded his right in Le +Maine, and by resisting he placed himself in the position of a rebel to +his liege lord; nevertheless, scarcely had William returned to England, +thinking himself secure, than Helie began to make a struggle to recover +what he had lost. No sooner, however, did William hear of his proceeding +than he hurried back from England, and in an incredibly short space of +time was at Le Mans: he found his vassal more powerful than he expected, +and much violence ensued. Obliged to return to England, not long after +this his sudden death ensued. Helie, aided by the Count of Angers, +attacked and took possession of Le Mans, and besieged the castle: two +Norman officers in command had, in the meantime, received orders from +the new King of England to treat with Helie; and when he presented +himself before the walls, they requested him to clothe himself in his +white tunic, which had gained him the surname of the White Knight. With +this he complied; and on his re-appearance before them, they received +him with smiles, saying,-- + +"Sir White Knight, you may now rejoice to good purpose, for we have +reached the term so long desired by you; and if you have a good sum of +money for us, we will make a good bargain. If we chose to resist we have +still arms, provisions, and valour; but the truth is, we want a +legitimate master to whom we can dedicate our service. For which reason, +noble warrior, knowing your merit, we elect and constitute you +henceforth Count of Le Mans." + +Helie, after this, took part against Robert and the Count of Mortain at +the battle of Tinchebray, where he commanded an army composed of Bretons +and Manceaux. He distinguished himself wherever he appeared in battle, +and died in 1110, and was buried in the abbey church of La Couture, +where his tomb was formerly seen. He was the hero of his age. Pious, +loyal, and valiant, his device expressed his qualities:--"No glory +without honour, and no honour without glory." He was active, vigilant, +and just, says one of his biographers, as great in his reverses as in +his successes; he added to the merit of a great captain the talents of a +sound politician, and the enlightened mind of a statesman; but his +highest praise is that he merited and obtained the affection of his +vassals. + +His memory was long cherished in Le Mans, even till the events of the +great Revolution swept away all records but that of the crimes then +committed. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + LUDE--SAUMUR REVISITED--THE GARDEN--LA PETITE VOISINE--THE RETIRED + MILITAIRE--LES PIERRES COUVERTES--LES PETITES + PIERRES--LOUDUN--URBAIN GRANDIER--RICHELIEU--THE NUNS--THE + VICTIM--THE FLY--THE MALLE POSTE--THE DISLODGED SERPENTS. + + +LEAVING Le Mans, and all its recollections, we continued our way towards +the Loire, which we proposed crossing at Saumur, not only with a +pleasing memory of our former visit there, when the sight of Fontevraud +and its treasured tombs of our English kings first delighted us, but +because, with all my wish to leave nothing unnoticed in the interesting +towns of France, I had quitted Saumur without having made a _pilgrimage_ +to some of its most singular and important monuments. It was only on +reading a passage in Michelet's History of France, when he alludes to +the "_prodigious Dolmen_" of Saumur, that I found there was still +something of interest which I had neglected. Doubtless this has often +been the case in my wanderings; and, probably, there is scarcely a town +where some new treasure may not be discovered by some fresh traveller, +where there is so much to excite attention. + +I determined, therefore, to pause at Saumur, to enjoy its beauties once +more, and pass a day with its Druids. + +Lude was in our way, where, on the banks of the Loire, stands a +magnificent castle; now a private residence, kept up in great style, and +surrounded with beautiful gardens, better attended to than any I ever +saw in France, where the name of _Jardin Anglais_ is, usually, another +term for a wilderness. Lude belonged to a Breton nobleman, M. de +Faltroeet, and now to his son, for the inhabitants were just deploring +his recent death, and, what is sufficiently unusual in France, naming a +man of rank with respect and affection. He appears to have been one of +the most amiable and considerate of men, and to be sincerely lamented. +The young woman from the inn, who was our guide there, spoke of his +death with great sorrow, and was eloquent in his commendation, as the +friend of the people and the poor. + +The castle is very extensive and in high preservation: we could not see +the interior, which I am told is very interesting: rooms being named +after Francis I. and Henry IV., who are both said to have visited here; +and the furniture of their time is preserved or introduced. The exterior +walls are adorned with medallions of extraordinary size, in the style +peculiar to Francis I., and the huge round towers are similarly +decorated: much of the building between these towers is of more modern +date, but all is in good keeping and handsome. Several fine willows dip +their boughs into the river, which bathes one side--but what was the +moat on all the others, is now filled up with flowering trees and +shrubs, and the ramparts laid out in terraces, covered with a luxuriant +growth of every kind of rare and graceful plant. There is a charming +view from the gardens, and the abode altogether is delightful. + +The country is rich and fertile, covered with fields of Indian corn, +flax, and hemp; here and there are large plantations of fir-trees; the +chestnut-trees we observed were very luxuriant, loaded with fruit; the +apples thickly clustered in the numerous orchards, and everything +abundant and smiling. + +We rejoiced at once more beholding the Loire at the spot where, on our +former visit, we most admired it. Saumur is, however, greatly increased +and improved during the three years which had elapsed since we first +made its acquaintance. New houses are built, old ones pulled down, and +active measures taken to beautify and adorn the town. The same +slovenliness struck us as before on the promenade by the river, where +the idea of sweeping up fallen leaves, or cleaning steps, never seems to +have occurred, and the theatre walls look as desolate and +ill-conditioned as formerly. The baths, which attracted my admiration +before, seated on an islet amidst flowering shrubs, had lost the +brightness of their then newly-painted outside, and had rather a forlorn +effect; the old Hotel de Ville and its towers and turrets looked as +venerable as ever, and the Loire showed much less sand and more of its +crystal water. The magnificent Donjon towered majestically on its +height, and all the caves of the chain of rocks beneath showed their +mysterious openings as when they first excited my surprise. + +We visited almost all our old friends--the venerable monuments of times +gone by--in the town, and discovered several towers which the removal of +houses have rendered evident. We were remarking a building of this kind, +whose turrets could have been erected only by Foulques Nera himself, +when we were invited into a garden opposite by the proprietors, who took +an interest in our curiosity. This garden, and the family that owned it, +were quite _unique_ in their way; the master was a retired _militaire_, +the mistress a smart, managing woman; and their delight and treasure a +little boy of about ten, and a tiny garden enclosed between two walls, +with a pavilion at each end, and filled with shrubs and flowers +exquisitely beautiful, and tended as garden never was tended since Eve +herself spent all her time in restraining the growth of her garlands. +Tea-scented roses, roses of all hues and perfumes, rare plants, seldom +seen but in hot-houses, all fresh and flourishing, occupied every nook +of this little retreat, the _delices_, as they assured us, of this +couple, whose content and satisfaction at the perfection of their +dwelling overflowed at every word. "You see," said the hostess, as she +led us through the little alleys, and made us pause at the minute +alcoves--"nothing can be more complete; we have a perfect little +paradise of flowers, and a little world of our own; we have no occasion +to go out to be amused, for, let us throw open our _jalousies_ in our +_salon_ at the corner of this tower, and we see all the world without +being seen; when we shut it we are in solitude, and what can we require +beyond? My little son," she continued, pointing to the other object of +her care, who was seated beside a pretty little girl, tuning a small +instrument, "occupies himself with his violin, and he can touch the +guitar prettily, also; he is now playing to a _petite voisine_ who often +comes to keep him company: he has considerable parts, and is well +advanced in his Latin. We let our large house to M. le Cure, and live in +the small one at the other end of our garden; it is large enough for us, +and nothing can be so convenient." + +While she continued to converse, setting forth the advantages of her +position, the _bon garcon_ of a husband, who seemed second in command, +followed with assenting smiles. I asked if he smoked in his little +summer-house sometimes, but saw that my question was _mal-a-propos_, for +his wife replied quickly, that he had not that bad habit, and, indeed, +would not endure smoking any more than herself. He looked somewhat slily +as he remarked, that since he had left the army he had never _indulged_ +in it. + +We returned to our inn laden with bouquets, forced upon us by these +happy, hospitable people, whose content, and the beauty of their little +garden, so like numerous others in charming Saumur, confirmed our notion +of its being the most agreeable place in France to live at. + +The evening was oppressively hot, and we walked on the fine bridge, +hoping to meet a breeze. The shallow river was like glass, so +transparent, that every pebble seemed clearly defined at the bottom. +Sunset made the sky one sheet of ruby colour, and the stars, rising in +great splendour, shone with dazzling brilliancy; the deep purple of the +glowing night which succeeded was like sapphire, every building, every +tower, every hill, was mirrored in the waters, and the spires of every +church threw their delicate lines along the still expanse. The gigantic +castle looked down from its height as if protecting all; and the few +white motionless sails at a distance, pausing near the willowy islands, +where not a leaf moved, made the whole like enchantment. I never beheld +a more exquisite night, nor saw a more beautiful scene. + +The next day was brilliant; but the stillness of the air had given place +to a fresh wind, which made our long walk across the Roman arched +bridge, towards the famous _Pierres Couvertes_, less fatiguing. Though +the way to it is by nearly a league of hot dusty road, yet the surprise +and pleasure of the sight on arriving at this extraordinary monument +quite repays all toil. + +In a woody dell, not far from the main road, stand these wonderful +stones, in all their mysterious concealment, puzzling the mind and +exciting the imagination with their rude forms and simple contrivances. +Before we left England we had made an excursion to Stonehenge, that most +gigantic of all Druidical remains, and had carried with us a perfect +recollection of all its proportions. The temple of Saumur is not a +quarter its height, but is _entirely covered_ in, and apparently of +_ruder_ construction, there being no art whatever used to keep the +stones together except that of placing them one over the other. We +measured the length and height in the best way we could, and found it to +be eighteen yards long, from the entrance to the back, which is closed +in by a broad flat stone, five yards and a-half in length within and +eight yards without. The height is not more than three yards from the +ground; but it has evidently sunk in the earth considerably. The sides +incline inwards, leaving the covering stones projecting like a cottage +roof, and the great stone at the back has also lost its perpendicular; +nevertheless, there are none displaced of this chamber. It appears, by +several broad slabs which lie scattered about, that there must have been +more compartments of the temple: an outer court existed, and a narrower +part at the entrance, the stones of which are still upright. + +This treasure is preserved from injury by a palisade round the piece of +ground on which it stands, in its little grove, and a wooden door shuts +it in, which is in the custody of an old woman who keeps a school close +by and receives the offerings of the curious. Her pupils, of tender age, +pursue some of their studies in a small hall where she presides; but +their chief pursuit seems to be amusement, to judge by the laughter and +general hilarity which prevailed, as they ran gambolling amongst the +venerable shades, peeping slily at the strangers, whose contemplations +they were commanded not to interrupt. + +From the _Grandes Pierres Couvertes_, we continued our way, through +vines and fields, to the top of a neighbouring hill, which commanded a +charming view of the town and castle, and fine country round. There, in +the midst of heath and wild thyme and nodding harebells, at the +extremity of a ploughed field, overhanging a deep rocky road, stands +another temple of the Gauls. It is called _Les Petites Pierres +Couvertes_, and is similar in construction to the large one, but not a +quarter its size. Its position is most picturesque, and the landscape +spread out before its rugged arch exquisite. It is covered in, and its +walls are firm and close; though, from its exposed situation, one would +expect that it must long ago have fallen. Remains of large stones lie +around, partly covered with vegetation, and many, no doubt, are embedded +in the earth. Perhaps the two temples communicated once on a time, and +covered the whole space between; where probably waved a gigantic forest. +The wind had risen violently as we sat, in the sun, beside the _Petites +Pierres_, and our walk back to Saumur promised us a great deal of dust, +for we saw it eddying in the valleys beneath, like wreaths of mist. We, +however, contrived to avoid the high road, and found our way, by a very +pleasant path, to the town, before the threatened storm arrived which +night brought. + +By a fine star-light evening of the following day, which we had spent +amongst the hills and in visiting the fortifications of the castle, we +took our departure for Poitiers--the next great object of our interest. + +We reached Loudun in the dark, consequently had no opportunity of +judging of its appearance; but, as far as we could observe, there seemed +little to please the eye. The place itself is no further interesting +than as having been the scene of that frightful tragedy which disgraced +the seventeenth century, and which, though a story often told, may not +be familiar to every reader; at least, its particulars may not +immediately recur to all who hear the name of Loudun. The revolution +which destroyed so much, has left scarcely any traces of the famous +convent of Ursulines, where the scenes took place which cast a +disgraceful celebrity on its community. + +The cure and canon of St. Peter of Loudun, was a young man, named Urbain +Grandier, remarkable not only for his learning and accomplishments, but +for his great beauty, and the grace of his manners, together with a +certain air of the world, which was, perhaps, an unfortunate distinction +for one in his position. His gallantry and elegance would have graced a +Court, but his lot had cast him where such _agremens_ were not only +unnecessary, but misplaced. Urbain had, besides, been favoured by +fortune, in having obtained two benefices; a circumstance witnessed +with envy by several of the ecclesiastics, his contemporaries; who felt +themselves thrown constantly into the shade by his superiority in this +as in other respects. The priests, his companions, were not inclined to +be indulgent to any weakness shown by their young and admired rival; the +husbands of some of his fair parishioners looked on him with an evil +eye, while the ladies themselves could see nothing to blame in his +deportment, ever devoted and amiable as he was to them. All the learned +men of the country sought his society; all the well-meaning and generous +spirits of the neighbourhood found answering virtues in Urbain Grandier, +and he was not aware that he had an enemy in existence. + +He had forgotten that he had once been so unfortunate as to offend a man +who never forgave, and who, from being merely the prior of Coussay, had +risen to a high rank in the church, and was now all-powerful, and able +to take revenge for any petty injury long past, but carefully treasured, +to be repaid with interest when occasion should serve.[3] + +[Footnote 3: A wretched and pointless satire had appeared under the +title of _La Cordonniere de Loudun_, in which the Cardinal figured: Pere +Joseph insinuated that Grandier was the author, and the supposed insult +was readily credited.] + +The Cardinal de Richelieu, from the height of his grandeur, suddenly +condescended to remember his old acquaintance, the cure Grandier, and +was only on the look-out for a moment at which to prove to him that +nothing of what had once passed between them had escaped his +recollection. A means was soon presented, and, without himself appearing +too prominently in the affair, the cardinal arrived at his desired end. + +It happened that some young and giddy pupils of the Convent of +Ursulines, bent on a frolic, resolved to terrify the bigoted and +ignorant nuns of the community, by personating ghosts and goblins, and +they succeeded to their utmost wishes, having acted their parts to +admiration; but they were far from dreaming of the fatal consequences of +their success. + +The disturbed nuns, worried and frightened from their propriety, went in +a body to a certain cure, named Mignon, one of the most spiteful and +envious of Grandier's rivals, and related to him the fact of their +convent being disturbed by ghostly visitants, who left them no peace or +rest. The thought instantly occurred to Mignon, that he might turn this +accident to account at the expense of the handsome young priest whom he +detested. + +Instead of ghosts and spirits, he changed the mystery into witchcraft +and _possession by the devil_, and contrived so artfully, that he +induced many of the nuns to imagine themselves a prey to the evil one, +and to assume all the appearance of suffering from the influence of +some occult power. His pupils became quite expert in tricks of +demoniacal possession, falling into convulsions and trances, and going +through all the absurdities occasionally practised at the present day, +by the disciples of Mesmer. These foolish, rather than wicked, women, +were led to believe that, by acting thus, they were advancing the +interests of religion, and they allowed themselves to fall blindly into +the scheme, devised for the purpose of ruining the devoted cure. A +public exorcism took place, at which scenes of absurdity, difficult to +be credited, took place, and when the possessed persons were questioned +as to how they became a prey to the evil spirit, they declared that the +devil had entered into them by means of a bouquet of roses, the perfume +of which they had inhaled; when asked by whom these flowers had been +sent them, they replied that it was Urbain Grandier! This was enough to +seal his doom; on the 3d of December, 1633, the Councillor Laubardemont +arrived secretly at Loudun, caused the young cure to be arrested, as he +was preparing to go to church, and had him carried off to the castle of +Angers. The devils, supposed to possess the nuns, were severally +questioned, _and replied_, they were Astaroth, of the _order of_ +Seraphins, the head and front of all, Easas, Celcus, Acaos, Cedon, +Asmodeus, _of the order_ of Thrones, Alez, Zabulon, Nephtalim, Cham, +Uriel, Achas, of the order of Principalities! In the following April he +was brought back to Loudun, and consigned to the prison there. The farce +of exorcism was now recommenced; but the fatigue of sustaining the parts +they had assumed, and perhaps a conviction of the fearful nature of the +deceptions they had practised, caused some of the actors in this drama +to rebel, and they actually made a public retractation of what they had +before advanced. + +It was, however, now too late; no notice was taken of their denial of +their former charges against the victim whose fate was agreed upon, and +in August, 1634, a commission was duly appointed, at the head of which +were Laubardemont and his satellites, who pronounced Urbain Grandier +guilty, and convicted of the crime of magic. His sentence condemned him +to be burned alive, but, resolved to carry vengeance to the utmost +extent, he was made to undergo the torture, suffering pangs too horrible +to think of. He was then conveyed to Poitiers, where he suffered at the +stake, and by his unmerited fate left an indelible blot on the age in +which such monstrous cruelty could be perpetrated, or such ignorant +barbarity tolerated. He endured his torments with patience and +resignation. While he was suffering, a large fly was observed to hover +near his head. A monk, who was enjoying the spectacle of his execution, +and who had heard that Beelzebub, in Hebrew, signified _the God of the +Flies_, cried out, much to the edification of all present, "Behold +yonder, the devil, Beelzebub, flying round Grandier ready to carry off +his soul to hell!"[4] + +[Footnote 4: A very excellent picture on this subject, by Jouy, is in +the Musee at Bordeaux: I did not see it, but it has been described to me +by a person on whose judgment I can depend, who considers it of very +high merit, and worthy of great commendation.] + +The unpleasant recollections raised by the neighbourhood of Loudun were +dispelled as we hurried on to the next post, which was at Mirebeau, +where we were not a little entertained at the primitive manner in which +our _malle poste_ delivered and received its despatches. The coach +stopped in the middle of the night in the silent streets of Mirebeau, +and the conductor, stationing himself beneath the window of a dwelling, +called loudly to the sleepers within; no answer was returned, nor did he +repeat his summons; but waited, with a patience peculiar to +_conducteurs_, who do not care to hurry their horses, till a rattling on +the wall announced the approach of a basket let down by a string. Into +this he put the letters he had brought, and it re-ascended; after +waiting a reasonable time, the silent messenger returned, and from it a +precious packet was taken; nothing was said, the _conducteur_ resumed +his seat on the box, the horses were urged onwards, and we rattled +forward on our way to Poitiers. + +Mirebeau, though now an insignificant bourg, was formerly a place of +some consequence. Its chateau was built by Foulques Nera, the redoubted +Count of Anjou; and here, in 1202, Elionor of Aquitaine sustained a +siege directed against her by the partisans of the Count of Bretagne, +her grandson. Close by is a village, the lord of which had an hereditary +privilege sufficiently ludicrous. + +It appears that at Puy Taille there must have been a remarkable number +of serpents, who refused to listen to the voice of the charmer until the +lord of the castle, _wiser_ than any other exorciser, took them in hand. +He was accustomed, at a certain period, to set forth in state, and, +placing himself at a spot where he presumed he should be heard, raised +his voice, and, in an authoritative tone, commanded the refractory +animals to quit his estates. Not one dared to refuse; and great was the +rustling, and hissing, and sliding, and coiling as the serpentine nation +prepared to _demenager_, much against their inclination no doubt, but +forced, by a power they could not withstand, to obey. None of these +creatures interrupted our route, although there has long ceased to be a +lord at Puy Taille, and we arrived before day-break safely at the Hotel +de France, at Poitiers. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + POITIERS--BATTLES--THE ARMIES--KING JOHN OF FRANCE--THE YOUNG + WARRIOR--HOTEL DU VREUX--AMPHITHEATRE--BLOSSAC--THE GREAT + STONE--THE SCHOLARS--MUSEUM--THE DEMON'S STONE--GRANDE GUEULE. + + +POITIERS is a city of the past: it is one of those towns in which the +last lingering characteristics of the middle ages still repose; although +they do so in the midst of an atmosphere of innovation. Modern +improvement, slowly as it shows itself, is making progress at Poitiers, +as at every town in France, and quietly sweeping away all the records of +generations whose very memory is wearing out. If new buildings and walks +and ornamental _alentours_ were as quickly erected and carried out as +they are conceived, it would be a matter of rejoicing that whole cities +of dirt and wretchedness should be made to disappear, and new ones to +rise shining in their place; but, unfortunately, this cannot be the +case. There are too many towns in France in the same position as +Poitiers, all requiring to be rebuilt from the very ground to make them +_presentable_ at the present day; blocks of stone strew every road, +brick and mortar fill every street; a great deal of money is expended, +but a great deal more is required; and, in the meantime, the new and the +old strive for mastery, the former growing dull and dirty by the side of +the latter, and, before the intended improvements are realized, becoming +as little sightly as their more venerable neighbours. + +Much of _old_ Poitiers has been destroyed; and _new_ Poitiers is by no +means beautiful. It is better, therefore, except in a few instances, to +forget that modern hands have touched the sacred spot, and endeavour to +enjoy the reminiscences still left, of which there are a great number +full of interest and variety. + +When we sallied forth into the streets of Poitiers, our first impression +was that of disappointment; but we had not long wandered amongst its +dilapidated houses and churches before the enthusiasm we expected to +feel there was awakened, and the spirit of the Black Prince was appeased +by our reverence for everything we met. + +Poitiers belongs to so many ages--Gaul, Roman, Visigoth, Frank, +English--that it holds a place in every great event which has occurred +in France during the last nineteen centuries. Four important battles +were fought in its neighbourhood: those of Clovis, of Charles Martel, of +Edward of England, and of Henry III. of France; all these struggles +brought about results of the utmost consequence to the country. The +fields where these battles were fought are still pointed out, though the +site of each is violently contested by antiquarians. + +That between Clovis and Alaric is now _said to be_ determined as having +occurred at Voulon, on the banks of the Clain, instead of Vouille, which +has long been looked upon as the scene. In the same manner, furious +disputes have prevailed as to where the defeat of Abderraman, by Charles +Martel, took place; but we are bound now to believe that it was neither +near Tours, Amboise, nor Loches, but at Moussais-la-Bataille, close to +Poitiers, in the _delta_ formed by the waters of the Vienne and the +Clain. + +The fatal fight, in which King John and all his chivalry were defeated +by the Prince of Wales, is said, in like manner, to be between Beauvoir +and Nouaille, and not at Beaumont, as has been asserted. There no longer +exists a place called _Maupertuis_, which once indicated the spot; but +it is ascertained that the part called La Cardinerie was once so +designated, and, hard by, at a spot named _Champ-de-la-Bataille_, have +been found bones and arms; which circumstance seems to have set the +matter at rest. It matters little where these dreadful doings took +place; all round Poitiers there are wide plains where armies might have +encountered; but it would seem probable that the spot where the battle +so fatal to France was really fought, must have been situated so as to +have afforded the handful of English some signal advantage; or how was +it possible for a few hundred exhausted men to conquer as many +thousands! The English crossbows, which did such execution, were most +likely stationed at some pass in the rocky hills of which there are +many, and their sudden and unexpected onset must have sent forth the +panic which caused the subsequent destruction of the whole French army. + +In fact, Froissart describes their position clearly enough. He names +Maupertuis as a place two leagues to the north of Poitiers, and the spot +chosen by the Black Prince as a hill full of bushes and vines, +impracticable to cavalry, and favourable to archers: he concealed the +latter in the thickets, connected the hedges, dug ditches, planted +pallisades, and made barricades of waggons; in fact, formed of his camp +a great redoubt, having but one narrow issue, guarded on each side by a +double hedge. At the extremity of this defile was the whole English +army, on foot, compact and sheltered on all sides; while, behind the +hill that separated the two armies, was placed an ambuscade of six +hundred knights and cross-bowmen. + +The French army was divided into three parts, and disposed in an oblique +line. The left and foremost wing was commanded by the king's brother, +the Duke of Orleans, the centre by the king's sons, and the reserve by +the unfortunate monarch himself. Already the cry of battle was heard, +when two holy men rushed forward to mediate between the foes; but in +vain. The Prince of Wales,--that mighty conqueror,--knowing his +weakness, and feeling his responsibility, would have even consented to +give back the provinces he had taken--the captives of his valour--and +agreed to remain for seven years without drawing the sword. But King +John demanded that he should yield himself prisoner, with a hundred of +his knights; and, confident in his strength, he had no second proposal +to make. + +Sixty thousand warriors, full of pride, hope, and exultation, had +spread themselves over the plains, confident of success, and looking +forward to annihilate at a blow the harassed enemy which had so long +annoyed them, but which were now hunted into the toils, and could be +made an easy prey. The redoubtable Black Prince would no longer terrify +France with his name: he knew his weakness, and had sent to offer terms +the most advantageous, provided he and his impoverished bands might be +permitted to go free; but, with victory in their hands, why should the +insulted knights of France agree to his dictation? it were better to +punish the haughty islanders as they deserved, and at once rid their +country of a nest of hornets which allowed her no peace. + +The king, his four sons, all the princes and nobles of France were in +arms, and had not followed the English to listen to terms at the last +moment. King John,--the very flower of chivalry, the soul of honour and +valour,--rode through his glittering ranks, and surveyed his banners +with delight and pride. "At Paris, at Chartres, at Rouen, at Orleans," +he exclaimed, "you defied these English; you desired to encounter them +hand to hand. Now they are before you: behold! I point them out to you. +Now you can, if you will, take vengeance for all the ills they have done +to France; for all the slaughter they have made. Now, if you will, you +may combat these fatal enemies." + +The signal was given: the gorgeous troops rushed forth, their helmets +glittering with gold and steel, their swords bright, and their +adornments gay; their hearts full of resolve, and their spirits raised +for conquest. A short space of time sufficed to produce a strange +contrast: twenty thousand men, with the Dauphin of France at their head, +flying before six hundred tattered English! Chandos and the Black Prince +behold from a height the unexpected event: they follow up the advantage; +the hero of so many fights rouses himself, and becomes resistless as +Alexander: + + "See how he puts to flight the gaudy Persians + With nothing but a rusty helmet on!" + +Of all his hosts,--of all his friends, and guards, and warriors, and +nobles, what remains to the French king? He stands alone amidst a heap +of slain, with a child fighting by his side: their swords fall swiftly +and heavily on every one that dares approach them; their armour is +hacked and hewn; their plumes torn; the blood flows from their numerous +wounds; but they still stand firm, and dispute their lives to the last. +The boy performs prodigies of valour; he is worthy to be the son of +Edward himself; but he is at last struck down, while his frantic father +deals with his battle-axe blows which appal the stoutest heart. No one +dares to approach the lion at bay: they hem him in; they call to and +entreat him to lay down his arms; he is blinded with the blood which +flows from two deep wounds in his face; and, faint and staggering, he +gazes round on the slaughtered heaps at his feet, and gives his weapon +into the hands of an English knight. + +Over and over again has the story of this defeat been told, yet is the +relation always stirring, always exciting, and the remainder full of +romance and glory to all parties concerned. The only blot upon the +_ermine_ is, that the valorous boy who so distinguished himself should, +a few years later, forget the lesson of honour and magnanimity he then +learnt, and, by his disgraceful breach of faith, expose the father he +defended to so much sorrow and humiliation. + +The _Roman_ remains at Poitiers claim the first attention of the +traveller; and we, therefore, soon after our arrival, walked down the +rugged Rue de la Lamproie to an _auberge_ which has for its sign a board +on which is inscribed, "Aux _Vreux_-Antiquites Romaines." The meaning of +this mysterious word, which has puzzled many people, is this: Here +formerly existed a house which belonged to a bishop of Evreux; and was, +consequently, called Hotel d'Evreux. The last proprietor, imagining that +the word _Evreux_ meant _Roman Antiquities_, was seized with the happy +thought of changing it to _Vreux_, as simpler and more expressive; and +so it has remained. + +The _Vreux_ are very curious, and give a stupendous idea of the size of +the amphitheatre which once existed on this spot. The whole of the court +and large gardens of this inn offer remains of the seats, steps, +temples, and vaults. One huge opening is fearful to look at, and +preserves its form entire: it appears to have been an entrance for the +beasts and cars and companies of gladiators, which figured in the arena. + +Garlands of luxuriant vines, with white and black grapes in clusters, +now adorn the ruined walls; and fruit-trees and flowering shrubs grow on +the terraces. It requires some attention to trace the form of the +amphitheatre; as so many houses and walls are built in, and round about +its site. + +The foundation is attributed to the Emperor Gallienus, and occurred +probably in the third century. Medals of many kinds of metal have been +frequently found in excavating, which prove the period; but the learned +have not been silent on so tempting a theme, and the history of the +Arenes de Poitiers has occupied the attention of all the antiquaries of +France. It appears that the size was greater than that of Nismes. + +It is strange that so much of the ruins should still remain of the +amphitheatre in spite of so many centuries of destruction acting upon +it, and, notwithstanding its having been constantly resorted to as a +quarry, whenever materials were required for construction. In one of the +quarters of the town, the Rue des Arenes and the Bourg Cani, where the +poorest people live, almost all the houses are formed of the chambers +belonging to a Roman establishment. The roofs of almost all are Roman: +the cellars, the stables, and the granaries. No doubt Poitiers was a +place of the greatest importance under their sway, as these extensive +ruins indicate. + +The park of Blossac is the most attractive promenade of Poitiers: it is +beautifully laid out, and well kept. An intendant of Poitou, M. de la +Bourdonnaye-Blossac, established it in 1752, with the benevolent intent +of giving employment, in a hard winter, to the poor. In constructing it, +a great many sepulchres of the Gauls, and funereal vases, were +discovered; some of which are preserved in the museum. + +The view is charming from the terrace of Blossac above the Clain, and +one is naturally led to pursue the agreeable walks which invite the +steps at every turn. We found that, by following as they pointed, we +should arrive at most of the places we desired to see; and, as the +interior of the town has few attractions in itself, we resolved to skirt +it, and continue our way along the ramparts. They extend a long way, and +are extremely pleasant in their whole extent. Remnants of ancient towers +and rampart walls appear here and there, the river runs clear and +bright beneath, and beyond are gently undulating hills; while, +occasionally, heaps of grey rocks, of peculiar forms, some looking like +temples, others like towers, rise suddenly from their green base, +surprising the eye. + +In the direction of the most remarkable of these, may be found a _pierre +levee_, said, by veracious chroniclers, to have been raised on the spot +by the great saint of Poitiers, Sainte Radegonde, who is reported to +have brought the great stone on her head, and the pillars which support +it in the pockets of her _muslin apron_: one of these pillars fell from +its frail hold to the ground, and the devil instantly caught it up and +carried it away, which satisfactorily accounts for the stone being +elevated only at one end. Unfortunately the same legend is so often +repeated respecting different saints, and in particular respecting +_Saint_ Magdalen, who has often been known to establish herself in wild +places, bringing her rugged stool with her, that it would seem some or +other of these holy people _plagiarised_ from the other. + +Rabelais attributes this stone to Pantagruel, who, "seeing that the +scholars of Poitiers, having a great deal of leisure, did not know how +to spend their time, was moved with compassion, and, one day, took from +a great rock, which was called Passe-Lourdin, an immense block, twelve +toises square, and fourteen _pans_ thick, and placed it upon four +pillars in the midst of a field, _quite at its ease_, in order that the +said scholars, when they could think of nothing else to do, might pass +their time in mounting on the said stone, and there banqueting with +quantities of flagons, hams, and pasties; also in cutting their names on +it with a knife: this stone is now called La Pierre Levee. And in memory +of this, no one can be matriculated in the said University of Poitiers +who has not drunk at the cabalistic fountain of Croustelles, been to +Passe-Lourdin, and mounted on La Pierre Levee." + +Bouchet's opinion is, that the stone was placed by Alienor d'Aquitaine, +about 1150, to be used at a fair which was held in the field where it +stands. + +It is, no doubt, one of the Dolmen, whose strange and mysterious +appearance may well have puzzled both the learned and unlearned in every +age since they were first erected. + +One of the most interesting monuments in Poitiers is the museum; for it +is a Roman structure--a temple or a tomb--almost entire, and less +injured than might have been expected, serving as a receptacle for all +the antiquities which have been collected together at different periods, +in order to form a _musee_. They are appropriately placed in this +building, and are seen with much more effect in its singular walls than +if looked at on the comfortable shelves of a boarded and white-washed +chamber. + +As is usual in those cases, disputes run high respecting the original +founder and the destination of this building, unique in its kind. Some +insist that it is a tomb erected to Claudia Varenilla, by her husband, +Marcus Censor Pavius; others see in it a pagan temple, transformed into +a place of early Christian worship; others, the _first cathedral_ of +Poitiers. + +It has undergone numerous changes of destination, at all events, having +been used as a church, as a bell-foundry, as a depot for _economical +soup_, and as a manufactory. The Society of Antiquaries have at length +gained possession of it, and it is to be hoped that it will know no +further vicissitudes. + +In this temple may be seen numerous treasures of Gaulic and Roman and +Middle-age art of great interest: sepulchral stones inscribed with the +names of Claudia Varenilla, Sabinus, and Lepida; Roman altars, military +boundary-stones, amphorae, vases, capitals, and pottery, all found in the +neighbourhood of Poitiers: a good deal of beautiful carving from the +destroyed castle of Bonnivet, fine specimens of the Renaissance, and +numerous relics of ruined churches. + +Among the treasures is a block of stone, said to be one on which the +Maid of Orleans rested her foot when she mounted her horse, in full +armour, to accompany Charles VII. on his coronation. A piece of stone +from the old church of St. Hilaire is exhibited, which, when struck, +emits so horrible an effluvia as to render it unapproachable. The church +is said to have been built of this stone; if so, the workmen must have +been considerably annoyed while constructing it, and deserved +_indulgences_ for their perseverance in continuing their labour. It +would appear that this is a calcareous[5] rock, which has been described +by several French naturalists who have met with it in the Pyrenees, at +the Breche de Roland, and on the height of Mont Perdu, and whose odour +of _sulphureous hydrogen_ is supposed to arise from the animal matter +enclosed in its recesses. Some marbles have the same exhalation, yet are +employed in furniture: as the smell does not appear to be offensive +unless the stone is struck with some force, it may, perhaps, be +unobserved; but I could scarcely regret that the church of St. Hilaire +was almost totally destroyed when I heard that such disagreeable +materials entered into its construction. No doubt the presence of the +arch-enemy was considered as the cause of this singular effluvia in +early times, and the monks turned it, as they did all accidents, to +good account. + +[Footnote 5: Calcaire hepathique. The stone used for the casing of the +exterior of the Great Pyramid, and for the lining of the chambers and +passages, was obtained from the Gebel Mokattam, on the Arabian side of +the valley of the Nile. It appears to be similar to that named above, as +it is described as being "a compact limestone," called by geologists +"swine stone," or "stink-stone," from emitting, when struck, a fetid +odour.] + +The Grand Gueule, a horrible beast, discovered in the caverns of the +abbey of Sainte Croix, who had eaten up several nuns, was probably found +out by the smell of sulphur which pervaded his den, and brought forth to +punishment by the holy men who were guided to his retreat by this +means,--their instrument being a criminal condemned to death, who +combated the beast, and killed him. The dragon was usually carried in +processions, following the precious relic of a piece of the true cross +which had vanquished him; and his effigy in wood, with the inscription, +_Gargot fecit_, 1677, exists still, though it has ceased to be used. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + NOTRE DAME--THE KEYS--THE MIRACLE--PROCESSION--ST. RADEGONDE--TOMB + OF THE SAINT--FOOT-PRINT--LITTLE LOUBETTE--THE COUNT OUTWITTED--THE + CORDELIER--LATE JUSTICE--THE TEMPLARS. + + +POITIERS is one of the largest towns in France, but is very thinly +inhabited; immense gardens, orchards, and fields, extend between the +streets; the spaces are vast, but there is no beauty whatever in the +architecture or the disposition of the buildings. The squares are wide +and open, but surrounded by irregular, slovenly-looking houses, without +an approach to beauty or elegance; the pavement is rugged, and +cleanliness is not a characteristic of the place. + +The churches are extremely curious, although, in general, so battered +and worn as to present the aspect of a heap of ruins at first sight. +This is particularly the case with Notre Dame, so revered by Richard +Coeur de Lion, in the great _place_, before which a market is held. I +never saw a church whose appearance was so striking, not from its beauty +or grace, but from the singularly devastated, ruined state in which it +towers above the buildings round, as if it belonged to another world. +Nothing about it has the least resemblance to anything else: its heaps +of encrusted figures, arches within arches, niches, turrets covered with +rugged scales, round towers with countless pillars, ornaments, saints, +canopies, and medallions, confuse the mind and the eye. All polish is +worn from the surface, and so crumbling does it look, that it would seem +impossible that the rough and disjointed mass of stones, piled one on +the other, could keep together; yet, when you examine it closely, you +find that all is solid and firm, and that it would require the joint +efforts of time and violence to throw it down, even now. + +The peculiar colour of the stone of which it is built, assists the +strangeness of its effect; for it has an ancient, ivory hue, and all its +elaborate carving is not unlike that on some old ivory cabinet grown +yellow with age. A long series of scriptural histories, from the scene +in Eden, upwards, are represented on this wonderful facade; besides much +which has not yet been explained. Its original construction has been +attributed to Constantine, whose equestrian statue once figured above +one of the portals. + +St. Hilaire, St. Martin, and all the saints in the calendar, still fill +their niches, more or less defaced; row after row, sitting and standing, +decorate the whole surface, in compartments; choirs of angels, troops of +cherubims, surround sacred figures of larger size; and when it is +recollected that all this was once covered with gilding and colours, it +is difficult to imagine anything more splendid and imposing than it must +have been. + +The interior suffered dreadfully from the zeal of the Protestants, who +destroyed tombs and altars without mercy. One group--the Entombment of +Christ--common in most churches, is remarkable for the details of +costume it presents, and the excellence of its execution. It belonged +formerly to the abbey of the Trinity, and has been transferred to Notre +Dame. The date seems to be about the end of the fifteenth century; the +figures are of the natural size, and the original colouring still +remains; the anatomical developments are faithful to exaggeration, and +the finish of every part is admirable. + +Some of the female heads are charming, with their costly ornaments, +hoods, and embroidered veils; and the male figures, with the strange +hats of the period, like that worn by Louis XI., have a singularly +battered and torn effect, in spite of the smart fringed handkerchiefs +bound round them, with ends hanging down and pieces of plate armour +depending from their sides. + +Several of the adornments of the altars are those formerly belonging to +the church of the Carmelites, now the chapel of the _grand seminaire_. +Above the crucifix which surmounts the tabernacle, is attached to the +roof a bunch of keys: these are, according to tradition, the same +miraculous keys taken from the traitor who proposed to deliver them to +the English. The history of this transaction is as follows:-- + +In 1202, Poitou had risen against John Lackland, of England, Duke of +Aquitaine and Count of Poitou, taking the part of young Arthur, whom he +had just made prisoner at Mirebeau. The town of Poitiers had closed its +gates against John, warned by the example of Tours, which he had lately +sacked and burnt. The King had posted his troops in the towns of +Limousin and Perigord, with orders to his captains to endeavour to take +Poitiers by surprise. + +The mayor of Poitiers had a secretary who was both cunning and +avaricious, who, bribed highly by the English, had consented to deliver +the town to them. Accordingly, on Easter eve, a party of the enemy, +under false colours, arrived at the Porte de la Tranchee; the secretary +repaired instantly to the chamber of the mayor, to which he had access, +expecting, as usual, that the keys would be found there; but, to his +surprise, they were removed, nor could he find them in any other +accustomed place. The traitor hastened to inform the English of the +fact, by throwing a paper to them from the ramparts, requesting that +they would wait till four o'clock in the morning, when he should be able +to execute his purpose. At this hour he re-entered the mayor's chamber, +and telling him that a gentleman wished to set out on a mission to the +king of France at that early hour, begged that the keys might be +delivered to him. The mayor sought for the keys, but they were nowhere +to be found: he suspected some treason; and without loss of time +assembled the inhabitants, and required that they should go at once to +the Porte de la Tranchee, in arms, to be ready in case of surprise. + +The report soon spread that the English were at the Tranchee, and the +belfry sent forth its peals to summon all men to arms: in a very short +space the whole town was roused, and every one hurried to the gates, +where a strange spectacle met their view from the turrets. They beheld +upwards of fifteen hundred English, dead or prone on the ground, and +others killing them! The gates were thrown open, and the inhabitants +sallied forth, making the remainder an easy prey, and taking many +prisoners: the which declared to the mayor and the dignitaries of the +town all the treason which had been arranged; and further related, that +at the hour agreed on, they beheld before the gates a queen more richly +dressed than imagination can conceive, and with her a nun and a bishop, +followed by an immense army of soldiers, who immediately attacked them. +They instantly became aware that the personages they saw were no other +than the Blessed Virgin, St. Hilaire, and Ste. Radegonde, whose +bodies were in the town, and, seized with terror and despair, they fell +madly on each other and slaughtered their companions. + +All the towns-people, on hearing this, offered thanks to God, and +returned to keep their fast with great devotion. As for the disloyal +secretary, his fate was not known, for he was never seen afterwards; +and, says the chronicler, "it is natural to suppose that by one of the +other gates he cast himself into the river, _or_ that the devil carried +him off bodily." + +The miracle had not ended there; for while these things were going on at +the gates, the poor mayor, in great perturbation, had hurried to the +church of Notre Dame la Grande, and throwing himself before the altar, +recommended the town to the protection of God and the Mother of Mercy. +"While he was praying, all on a sudden _he felt the keys in his arms_; +at which he returned thanks to Heaven, as did many pious persons who +were with him." + +Bouchet, who relates this _fact_, adds:--"In memory of this _fine +miracle_, the inhabitants of the said Poitiers have ever since made, and +continue, a grand and notable procession of all the colleges and +convents, every year, all round the walls of the said town, within, the +day before Easter: the which extends for more than a league and a half. +And in memory of the said miracle, _I have made these four lines of +rhythm_:-- + + "L'an mil deux cens deux comme on clame, + Batailla pour ceux de Poietiers, + Contre les Anglois nostre Dame, + Et les garda de leurs dangiers." + +In commemoration of this event, statues of the three saviours of the +town were erected above the gate, and in a little chapel near: chapels +to the Virgin were placed in every possible nook, and a solemn +procession was instituted to take place every year, on Easter Monday, +when the mayor's lady had the privilege of presenting to the Virgin the +magnificent velvet robe, which she wore on the occasion. This ceremony +was continued as late as 1829, since when the _cortege_ no longer goes +round the town as formerly, but a service is performed in the church. + +The belief of this miracle seems to form an article of faith; for the +story was told me by three persons of different classes, all of whom +spoke of it as a tradition in which they placed implicit credit. + +Sainte Radegonde seems to hold, however, the highest rank of the three +defenders of Poitiers. "She is a great saint," said the exhibitor of the +Museum to me, "and performs miracles every day." "Ste. Radegonde," +said the bibliothecaire--"is a great protectress of this town, and has +personally interfered to assist us in times of need--but, perhaps, you +are not Catholic." + +"The great saint," said a votaress, who was selling _chapelets_ at her +tomb, "does not let a month escape without showing her power; only six +weeks ago a poor child, who was paralyzed, was brought here by its +mother, having been given up by the doctors; and the moment it touched +the marble where it was laid, all its limbs became as strong as ever, +and it walked out of the church." + +We, of course, lost as little time as possible in paying our _devoirs_ +to so wondrous a personage. The church is a very venerable structure, +surmounted by a spire covered with slate. The Saint was the wife of +Clotaire the First, and quitted her court to live a religious life, +having built a monastery in honour of the true cross, a piece of which +had been sent to her from Constantinople by the Emperor Justinian. She +erected a church in honour of the Virgin, which should serve for a +burial-place for her nuns; this was beyond the walls of her monastery, +and a college of priests was added to it to supply religious instruction +to her community. The church was finished, and its foundress died in +587. She was interred there by the celebrated Gregory of Tours. The +tomb, of the simplest construction of fine black marble, still exists in +a subterranean chapel, the object of religious pilgrimages without end; +and when, in the fourteenth century, it was opened by Jean, Duc de +Berry, Count of Poitou, brother of Charles the Wise, the body was found +in perfect preservation. In 1562 the Protestants took possession of the +church, and broke open the tomb, scattering and burning the bones; but +some of them were, nevertheless, gathered together and replaced in the +marble, which was joined by iron cramps, and does not exhibit much +injury. + +This huge mass of black marble has a very disgusting appearance, from +being entirely covered (except at one little corner, kept clean to show +its texture) with the runnings of the countless candles perched upon it +by the pilgrims, who arrive in such crowds at some periods of the year, +that the vault becomes so hot and close as to be unsafe to remain in +long. These candles are kept constantly burning, and the devotion to the +Saint also burns as brightly as ever. St. Agnes and St. Disciolus repose +near their abbess. Pepin, King of Aquitaine, lies somewhere in their +neighbourhood; but the exact spot is not ascertained. + +A miraculous foot-print is still shown, which it is recorded that Jesus +Christ left _when_ he visited the cell of the holy abbess: the stone, +carefully preserved, is called Le Pas de Dieu, and was formerly in the +convent of St. Croix. + +We had some difficulty to escape from the earnest exhortations of +numerous devout sellers of rosaries, who insisted on our buying their +medals, _chapelets_, &c., assuring us that they were of extraordinary +virtue; and we could scarcely believe that we had not been transported +several centuries back, when we saw the extreme devotion and zeal they +showed, both towards the Saint, and the money she might bring from +devotees. + +Close to Ste. Radegonde is the cathedral church of St. Pierre, +principally built by Henry II. of England, a very fine specimen of the +grandest style of art; vast and beautiful, but with its naves rather too +low. The principal portals are very much ornamented, and its towers have +much elegance: but the restorations it has undergone have been +injudicious, and the modern painted glass which replaces the old is +extremely bad; but many of the windows are of fine forms, and, on the +whole, there is a good deal to admire in St. Pierre. + +But little vestige remains now of the once famous convent of St. Pierre +le Puellier, which owed its foundation to a miracle: it is one very +often told as having occurred on like occasions; but is apparently still +believed in Poitiers, where devotees of easy credence seem to abound. + +Loubette was a young girl in the service of the Empress Helena, mother +of Constantine, and had been witness in Jerusalem of the discovery of +the true cross. She was a native of Brittany; and how she came to the +holy city does not appear; suffice it that she wished to return to her +own country. The empress, in dismissing her, made her a present of a +piece of the true cross, and a part of the crown of thorns. Loubette +placed the relics in her _little bag_, and set out on her journey _on +foot_. She was of very small stature, lame, and crooked, extremely weak, +and hardly able to move; however, such as she was, she took her way from +Jerusalem to Poitiers, where _having arrived_, and feeling fatigued, she +lay down before she entered the town under a willow, hanging her little +bag (_gibeciere_) on a branch, and went to sleep. When she awoke she +looked for her bag; but the branch she had hung it on--similar to the +steeple to which the horse of the Baron, of veracious memory, was +attached--had risen in the night to such a height, "that," says the +chronicler, "the said virgin could not reach her said _gibeciere_." + +She immediately sought the Bishop of Poitiers, who, struck with the +miracle, recommended her to present herself to the Count of Poitou, and +solicit of his piety the means of raising a church, and supporting a +chapter of clerks and priests to do duty there. The Count of Poitou is +said to have been joyous and pleased when he heard her relation; but it +does not appear that his generosity equalled his delight, for he did not +seem disposed to grant anything to Loubette for the establishment of her +church; however, unable at last to resist her entreaties, he agreed to +give her as much ground as so lame and weak a creature could creep over +in a day: it appears that he was not aware of her expedition from the +Holy Land. + +He soon had cause to repent of his jest, for scarcely had Loubette +commenced her walk, accompanied by the servants of the Count, than she +distanced them all, and got over so much ground that they were +terrified; for, wherever she stepped, the ground rose and marked what +was hers. The Count hurried after her in great alarm, and, stopping her +progress, entreated her to be content with what she had already gained, +as he began to think she would acquire all his domain.[6] + +[Footnote 6: The same legend is told as having happened in England on +the domains of the family of Titchborne.] + +On the banks of the Clain is still pointed out a mound of earth on the +spot where _Saint_ Loubette crossed the river without wetting her feet. + +There is no end to the miracles wrought in this favoured city: one is +told so remarkable that it deserves to be recorded. It occurred in +favour of Gauthier de Bruges, bishop of Poitiers--a very virtuous and +learned man, who had from a simple _cordelier_ been placed on the +episcopal throne by Pope Nicholas III. A question of supremacy having +arisen between the archbishops of Bourges and Bordeaux, Gauthier +declared for the former, and was charged by him to execute some acts of +ecclesiastic jurisdiction against his rival. The archbishop of Bordeaux +afterwards became pope, under the name of Clement V., protected by +Philippe le Bel, and in memory of his opposition deposed Gauthier, +enjoining him to retire into his convent. + +The bishop of Poitiers was obliged to submit to the authority of the +sovereign pontiff; but at the same time protested against the abuse of +power of which he was the victim; and he appealed against the sentence +of deposition _to God and the council to come_. He died shortly after, +and desired to be buried with his act of appeal in his hand. + +When Clement V. came to Poitiers to treat with Philippe le Bel on +_important and secret_ affairs--nothing less than the suppression of the +order of the Templars--he lodged at the Cordelier convent, in the very +church where Gauthier was buried. Being informed of the act of appeal +which the unfortunate bishop would not part with at the time of his +death, he had a great desire to see it, and commanded that his tomb +should be opened. Accordingly, in the dead of night, by the light of +torches, his desire was fulfilled. One of the pope's archdeacons +descended into the vault, and in the dead hand of the bishop beheld the +scroll: he endeavoured to take possession of it, but found it impossible +to do so, so firmly was it grasped by the bony fingers. The pope ordered +the archdeacon to enjoin the dead man to give it up on pain of +punishment, which the other having done, and added, that he pledged +himself to restore the paper when the pope had read it, the hand relaxed +its grasp, and the act was released. The archdeacon handed it up to the +pope; but when he tried to leave the vault, he found that a secret power +prevented him from stirring from the place, and he was forced to remain +there as hostage till the scroll was read and replaced in the hand of +the bishop; he then found that his limbs had resumed their power, and he +was able to quit the spot. Clement V., anxious to repair his injustice, +afterwards paid extraordinary honours to the memory of Bishop Gauthier. + +It was at this time, in 1306, the interview took place which decided +the fate of the Templars; the pope lodged with the Cordeliers, the King +with the Jacobins, and, in order that they might confer more readily, a +bridge was thrown across the street, forming a communication between the +two convents. For sixteen months Clement remained at Poitiers on this +important business; and here he had interviews with the master of the +Templars, summoned from Cyprus for the occasion: here, most of the +plans, destined to overthrow their dangerous power, were concocted, with +less reference to justice than expediency. + +The ancient palace of the Counts of Poitou is now the Palais de Justice. +A fine Grecian portico which we had passed several times in our search +for what we expected would be a Gothic entrance, leads to the only part +which remains of the ancient building: namely, a magnificent hall of +very large dimensions, surrounded by circular arches and delicate +pillars, and having a good deal of fine carving, and an antique roof of +chestnut wood. The exterior, which is adorned with figures of the +sovereigns of Poitou, we could not get a glimpse of, as the palace is so +hemmed in by buildings that it is only from the gardens and windows of +some private houses that any view of it can be obtained. Elionore of +Aquitaine, her husband and sons, often inhabited this abode; and it was +in the great hall that Charles VII. was proclaimed King of France. One +can but regret that so little remains of the original structure, and +that the buildings which modern taste and necessity have added, should +so ill accord with the old model; for nothing can be more misplaced than +the _classic temple_ which conducts to a Norman hall. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + CHATEAU DE LA FEE--KING RENE--THE MINIATURES--THE POST-OFFICE + FUNCTIONARY--ORIGINALITY--THE ENGLISH BANK-NOTE--ST. PORCHAIRE--THE + DEAD CHILD--MONTIERNEUF--GUILLAUME GUY GEOFFROY--THOMAS A + BECKET--CHOIR OF ANGELS--RELICS--THE ARMED HERMIT--A SAINT--THE + REPUDIATED QUEEN--ELIONORE--THE BOLD PRIEST--LAY. + + +ONE of the most remarkable houses in Poitiers, of which not many ancient +remain, is one now used as a school by the Christian Brothers. It is in +the Rue de la Prevote, close to the Place de la Pilori, and has been a +prison. The door and windows are finely ornamented, as is the whole +facade, with curiously-carved figures and foliage. Melusine, with her +serpent's or fish's tail, and her glass and comb, appears amongst +them--that inexplicable figure so frequently recurring in almost every +part of France, and even yet requiring her riddle to be solved. As we +knew that this part of the world was her head-quarters, we resolved to +visit her at her own castle of Lusignan, which would be in our way when +we left Poitiers. In this we were confirmed when we went to the +Bibliotheque, for the gentleman to whom we were indebted for much +attention in showing us the chief treasures there contained, recommended +us not to pass by without seeing the ruins of the _chateau de la Fee_. + +The university of Poitiers formerly held a very high rank, and was +frequented by scholars from every part of the world. France, England, +Scotland, Ireland, and Germany, sent their students: it was founded by +Charles VII., and Pope Eugene IV., and was in great esteem in spite of +the jests of Rabelais and others at its expense. One old author speaks +somewhat irreverently of the learned town; calling its students "the +flute-players and professors of the _jeu de paume_ of Poitiers." +Corneille makes his Menteur a pupil of the college of Poitiers; but +Menot, a preacher of the period of the League, has a passage in one of +his sermons which is sufficiently complimentary: in relating the +Judgment of Solomon, he makes him say to one of the women, "Hold your +tongue, for I see that you have never studied at Angers or Poitiers, +and know not how to plead." It is now the head of an academy which +comprises the four departments of Vienne, Deux-Sevres, La Vendee, and +Charente Inferieure. + +The public library is very extensive, and possesses many valuable +volumes. The first library named in French history is that of William +the Ninth, Count of Poitiers and Duke of Aquitaine, which was preserved +in his palace at Poitiers. At the revolution, all that ages had +accumulated was dispersed, but much has since been recollected, and +amongst the twenty-five thousand volumes there are many very precious. +There are more than fifteen hundred works relative to the history of +Poitou, and it has, within a few years, been enriched by a present from +the British government of a fine collection of historical and legal +documents connected with this part of the country. + +That which, however, interested me most, was a beautiful manuscript, +said to have been executed by no other hand than the royal one of the +good King Rene. I have no doubt it was done by a very skilful artist +whom his munificence protected; but if, as is probable, he painted the +work on chivalry now in the King's library at Paris, he did _not_ paint +the beautiful leaves of the Psalter which is attributed to him; there is +too much knowledge of art in the latter to permit one to imagine that +the same person could do both; for though the work on chivalry has +great merit, it is of an inferior kind to this. The birds, the flowers, +the foliage, and the miniatures, are in perfection, and betray an +Italian touch; true it is that the celebrated partridges, which King +Rene loved so well to paint, are frequently repeated, and the legend is +told while the manuscript is being looked at, of his occupation in +depicting his favourite bird, when he was informed of the loss of his +kingdom, and so interested was he in his work that he never laid down +his pencil, but proceeded to finish it off as if nothing had happened. +Still, I think, whoever painted this book was the royal amateur's master +in the art; it appears certain that the beautiful volume was presented +by him to Jeanne de Laval, his wife: it is decorated with the arms of +Anjou, Sicily, and Laval, and the gold and azure are brilliant beyond +description, the doves and other birds are of glittering plumage, and +the flowers charming. Another psalter, of still more exquisite +execution, is of later date, 1510; and though the gold is far less +dazzling than that which adorns Rene's book, nothing can exceed the +beauty of the birds and flowers introduced on the margins. One leaf, +_all owls_, has a peculiarly _feathered_ appearance; the solemn birds +sit on wreaths in the most elegant attitudes, and at the top of the page +one _Grand Duke_, larger and more dignified than the rest, seems to look +down on his people with satisfaction. The lupins, monkshood, +marguerites, and other simple flowers, so often introduced in +illuminated borders, are done with infinite skill, and _strewn_ about +the gold ground as if scattered there by chance: some with their stalks +upwards and in disorder, evidently showing that they were painted from +nature, probably from the artist's own garden in his convent. + +We found in Poitiers amongst the people, very little pride of their +town; they seem in fact to be inspired with a spirit of depreciation, +which surprised me; and I have seldom found in any French town so much +difficulty in discovering old houses and sites. "Ah, ca ne vaut pas la +peine, ma foi! c'est bien vieux!" was the general answer given to any +inquiry. + +I had occasion to go to the post-office for letters from England, having +sent the _commissionnaire_ of the inn in vain. I knew that several were +waiting for me, but being positively told that there were none, was +going away, much disappointed, when a man ran after me across the great +square, begging that I would return, as the director wished to speak to +me. I did so immediately, when I was accosted by a person I had not +before seen, who, instead of producing my letters, began a conversation +on the subject of Poitiers, and my journey to it; having informed +himself where I came from, with all the minuteness of an American +questioner, he proceeded to say there were letters for a person of my +name; but as he required my passport, which I found to my vexation I had +left at the inn, I was tantalized with a view of the handwriting of my +friends through a grating. The functionary, however, detained me still +to entreat that I would satisfy his curiosity as to what we could +possibly have been admiring the evening before on the ramparts near the +Porte du Pont Joubert, on the banks of the Clain. "I observed you, +ladies," said he, "pointing to the opposite hills, which are nothing but +blocks of grey rocks, ordinary enough, and leaning over the walls +watching the course of the river, which is but a poor stream; and +remarking the trees on the promenades, which, after all, are but trees; +in fact, it puzzled me to think what strangers could find at Poitiers to +like." + +Much amused at his originality, and the singular way in which he showed +it, I replied that we found much to admire in the walks, the scenery, +and the churches, and were surprised that he thought so little of his +native town. He seemed, as well as several of his assistant clerks, and +a person who patiently waited for his letters till the interview was +concluded, to think me much the most original of the two; and, having no +more to say, handed me my letters with the remark that I need not fetch +my passport, as he had no doubt they were really destined for me. It was +then evident to my mind that he had laid this plan to detain the +inquisitive travellers who had excited his curiosity, till he could +catechise them himself, and to that end had lured us _in person_ to the +post-office, and detained us and our letters till his pleasure was +secured. We were not sorry that nothing more was likely to arrive at +Poitiers for us, as we were to pay so much for the delivery. It appears +that strangers rarely remain more than a few hours here, which may +account for so much interest being excited in the solitary town by our +strolling. + +We had delayed changing some English money, and thinking it best to do +so in case of necessity, inquired the way to a banker's. We were +directed to several; but, apparently, business was not very urgent with +them, for at most of the houses we found the head person gone into the +country, and no delegate left. At last, we met with one at home; but he +appeared utterly at a loss when he looked at the unlucky English +bank-note which we presented to be changed, never, as he assured us, +having seen such a _bit of paper_ before; but kindly offering, if we +would leave it a few hours, to have it seen and commented on, and then, +if approved, and we liked to pay a somewhat unreasonable number of +francs, the sum should be delivered to us. We thought the whole +transaction so _bizarre_ that we declined his offer, resolving +rather to trust to chance till we reached La Rochelle,--our next +destination--than put ourselves to the charges he recommended. He +returned our note with a mortified air, saying, "Very well; as you +please; but there are people in Poitiers who would not give two sous for +your bit of paper." The house in which he lived had a very antique +appearance, and we had mounted a curious tower with winding-staircase to +reach his bureau; I therefore asked him if there was anything remarkable +attached to its history; but he seemed never to have thought about it, +and merely remarked that it was "bien vieille; mais rien de plus." He +looked after us with pity, as we took our leave, and probably +entertained himself afterwards at our expense with his townsman of the +post-office: "Ces Anglais! sont-ils originaux! par exemple!" + +Nothing daunted, we proceeded to visit the curious old church of St. +Porchaire, once a monastery dependent on the chapter of St. Hilaire le +Grand. The church of the priory is that part which remains. The interior +is quite without beauty; but what is worthy of note is its fine Roman +tower, and a portal of great singularity. The latter is ornamented with +medallions of the rudest workmanship; one capital represents Daniel and +the prophet Habakkuk, with lions of a strange shape; but, in order that +no mistake may arise as to their identity, besides the inscription which +surrounds the medallion, _Hic Daniel Domino vincit coetum leonum_, the +artist has engraved, in conspicuous letters, between the animals, the +word _Leones_. + +The church of St. Hilaire--a great saint in Poitiers--has been so much +altered as to leave little very interesting of its original +construction. This saint was much distinguished for the miracles he +performed; the memory of one is still preserved by a pyramid, with +mutilated bas-reliefs, recording the facts thus related by the annalist +of Aquitaine:-- + +"When St. Hilaire visited the churches of the city, as he went through +the streets he was followed by so many people that he could hardly be +seen, for he was on foot. A woman, who lived in a house now situated +before the _Grands Escolles_, knowing that he was passing her dwelling, +while she was bathing her infant, seized with an ardent desire to behold +the saint, left it in the bath, and ran out; when she returned she found +her child drowned. Whereupon she called out, 'Oh, my God! shall I lose +my child for having done that which was praiseworthy!' and in a rage of +grief took her little dead child in her arms, covered with a piece of +linen, and carried it to St. Hilaire, to whom she declared the case and +the accident, praying him, in great faith and hope, to entreat of God +that her child might be restored to life. + +"St. Hilaire, seeing the grief of the poor mother, who had but this +only child, and also her great reliance, and considering that the infant +had died in consequence of the mother's great desire to see him, set +himself to pray, prostrating himself on the earth with great humility +and tears, where he remained a long time. And he, who was of a great +age, would not rise from that posture till God had, at his request, +resuscitated the child. He then, taking it in his arms, presented it to +the mother, who gave it nourishment before all the people, who, full of +wonder, gave thanks to God and St. Hilaire." + +The church of Montierneuf is one of the most ancient in Poitiers. It +contains the tomb of its founder, Guillaume Guy Geoffroy, Count of +Poitiers and Aquitaine; who, having led a very irregular life, thought +to atone for all, by erecting a magnificent monastery for Cluniac monks. +Except this tomb, there is little remaining of interest; but the effigy +of Guillaume is well executed and curious, as he lies with his long +curled hair and his crown, his _aumoniere_, and his singularly-shaped +shoes. He was one of the most daring of those wild Williams who +distinguished themselves for profligacy; but this pious act of his seems +entirely to have redeemed his memory. + +It is recounted that, while the abbey was in progress, the King of +France, Philippe I., came to Poitiers, hoping to induce William to +assist him against the Duke of Normandy. The monarch, struck with the +grandeur of the new constructions, exclaimed that they were "worthy of a +king;" to which the Count replied, haughtily, "Am I not, then, a king?" +Philippe did not see fit to make any further rejoinder on so delicate a +subject. + +The tomb of this redoubted prince was opened in 1822, and the body found +quite perfect; as this circumstance, which is by no means unusual, was +in former times always considered as a proof of the sanctity of the +person interred, it is to be hoped all the stories of Count William's +vagaries are mere scandals, invented by evil-disposed persons; and that +the history of his having established a convent, all the nuns of which +were persons of more than suspected propriety, and having placed a +female favourite of his own at their head, had no foundation in truth. +Something similar is told of several powerful princes, so it may well be +a fable altogether. + +The botanical garden of Poitiers now occupies the place where the abbey +of St. Cyprian stood, with all its dependencies; we sat on some reversed +capitals, which now form seats in a flowery nook, and climbed a stair of +a tower where seeds are dried,--the only morsel of the great convent now +existing. Bouchet tells one of his strange stories of a monk of this +monastery, which is curious, as it relates to that dangerous and +powerful subject of the harassed King of England, Henry II., who must +have had enough to do to circumvent the art and cunning of the wily +archbishop who was always working for his ruin and the exaltation of the +Church. The annalist relates that-- + +"At this period, Thomas, Archbishop of Canterbury, in England, was a +fugitive from his country, because the English princes desired to kill +_and_ put him to death: for that he would not agree to certain +constitutions, statutes, and ordinances, that Henry II. and the princes +of England had made against the liberties and privileges of the Church, +and the holy canons thereof. For they wished to confer dignities and +other benefices and take the fruits, thereby profaning the sanctuary of +God. And the said archbishop was seven years, or thereabouts, in France, +which land is the refuge of popes and holy personages; and he had great +communication and familiarity with the said Pope Alexander, he being in +the town of Sens, where he chiefly staid while in France. And the +archbishop was sometimes at the abbey of Pontigny, and sometimes at the +monastery of St. Columbe. Now, I read what follows in an ancient +_pancarte_ of the abbey of St. Cyprian of Poitiers, brought there by a +monk of the said, called Babilonius, who, for some grudge owed him by +his abbot, was driven from his abbey, and went to complain of his wrong +to Pope Alexander at Sens, while the Archbishop Thomas sojourned there; +from whom this monk received a holy vial to place in the church of St. +Gregory, where reposes the body of the blessed Saint Loubette. I have +translated the said writing from Latin into the vulgar tongue, seeing +that it contains some curious things. It begins, 'Quando ego Thomas +Archiepiscopus,' &c. + +"When I, Thomas, Archbishop of Canterbury, exiled from England, took +refuge with Pope Alexander, who was also fugitive, in the town of Sens, +and there represented to him the bad habits and abuses that the King of +England had introduced into the Church; one night as I was in the church +of Sainte Colombe, engaged in prayer, supplicating the Queen of Virgins +that she would vouchsafe grace to the King of England and his +successors, that they might have power and will to be obedient to the +Church as her children, and that our Lord Jesus Christ would cause them +more fully to love the said Church, suddenly appeared to me the Blessed +Virgin Mary, having on her breast a drop of water, glittering like fine +gold, and holding in her hand a little vial (_ampoule_) of stone. And +after she had taken from her breast the drop of water and put it in the +vial, she spoke to me these words: 'This is the unction with which the +kings of England shall be anointed; _not those who reign now, but those +who are to reign_; for those who reign now are wicked, and so will be +their successors, and, for their iniquity shall lose many things. +However, kings of England shall come, and shall be anointed with this +unction, and shall be benign and obedient to the Church, and shall not +possess their lands or lordships until they are so anointed. The first +of these shall recover, without violence, the countries of Normandy and +Aquitaine, which their predecessors had lost. This king shall be great +amongst kings, and it will be he who shall re-edify many churches in the +Holy Land, and drive all the pagans from Babylon, where he shall erect +rich monasteries, and put all the enemies of religion to flight. And +when he wears about his neck this drop of golden water, he shall be +victorious and augment his kingdom. _As for thee, thou shall die a +martyr for sustaining the rights of the Church._' I then prayed the holy +and sacred Lady to tell me in what sanctuary I should place this sacred +deposit; and she replied, that there was in this city a monk of the +monastery of St. Cyprian of Poitiers, named Babilonius, who had been +unjustly driven forth by his abbot, where he desired to be reinstated by +apostolic authority; to him I was ordered to give this vial, in order +that he might carry it to the city of Poitiers, and place it in the +church of St. Gregory, which is near the church of St. Hilaire, and put +it at the extremity of the said church, towards the east, under a great +stone, _where it would be found_ when the proper hour arrived to anoint +the kings of England, and _that the chief of the Pagans should be the +cause of the discovery of the said golden drop_. Accordingly I enclosed +this treasure in a leaden vessel, and gave it to the said monk, +Babilonius, to bear to the church of St. Gregory, as it was commanded." + +What object _Saint_ Thomas of Canterbury had in thus mystifying the +monks of Poitiers, or to what _prince_ or _pagan_ he pointed at, remains +a secret: whether the holy vial ever was found cannot now be known; or, +if any discovery of such was made in that period of discoveries, the +great Revolution, it was probably consigned to destruction with numerous +other equally authentic relics. The most remarkable sentence in this +_pancarte_ is, perhaps, the prophecy of his own death by the martyr, +always admitting that the whole was not composed and arranged after the +event had happened. + +Bouchet, glad of the opportunity of dwelling on wonders, finishes his +tale by relating the circumstances of Becket's murder, and how at his +burial a choir of angels led the anthem, which the monks followed: also +how the cruel homicides by the judgment of God were suddenly punished; +for some of them _ate their own fingers_, others became mad and +demoniacs, and others lost the use of all their limbs. + +The relics in the churches of Poitiers were of the most extraordinary +value; each vied with the other in wonders of the kind, until all the +bones of all the saints in the calendar seemed gathered together in this +favoured city. Whenever a prince had offended the Church, he made his +peace by presenting some precious offering which was beyond price; as, +for instance, in 1109, the Duke of Aquitaine, father of Elionore, after +having been pardoned for one of his numerous offences, caused to be +enclosed in a magnificent shrine of gold, _two bones_ and _part of the +beard_ of the blessed Saint Peter, prince of apostles, which St. Hilaire +himself had brought to his church. Soon after, to prove his repentance +of some new peccadillo, Guillaume gave certain _dismes_ to the monks and +priests of St. Hilaire, with the use of the forest of Mouliere. + +St. Bernard himself was obliged on one occasion to come to Poitiers to +admonish the refractory duke, who chose to have an opinion of his own in +acknowledging the pope, and many miracles were performed during his +stay. Once St. Bernard severely reprimanded the duke at the altar, in +the cathedral, who was for the moment terrified at his denunciations; +but no sooner had he left the church than he ordered the altar at which +the saint had stood to be demolished; and a priest to proclaim and +command the adherence of all persons to whatever pope their duke had +adopted; but this impiety was signally visited, for the priest fell down +dead at the altar as he was uttering the words. Also the dean, under +whose auspices St. Bernard's altar had been destroyed, _fell sick_ +immediately, and died mad and in despair, for he cut his throat in his +bed: besides which, one of the refractory bishops--he of Limoges--fell +from his mule to the ground, and striking his head against a stone, was +killed on the spot; and for these _reasons_ and _evident signs_, Duke +William acknowledged his error, and replaced the Bishop of Poitiers, +whom he had deposed, in his chair. + +This is the William, known by his romantic adventures as "The Armed +Hermit," who, no doubt, disgusted with the tyranny of the Church, whose +members at that time never ceased to interfere with the monarchs of +Europe, resolved to abandon his kingdom, and embrace a life of quiet, as +he supposed, "in some _horrible desert_." He was encouraged in the idea +by interested persons, and _feigning to die_, left a will, by which his +young daughter, Elionore, became the heiress of Aquitaine; he then +secretly quitted the court, directing his steps to the shrine of St. +James, in Galicia, where he joined a holy hermit, and put himself under +his tuition. By _diabolic temptation_ it seems, however, that he could +never be content in any of the deserts; where, still clothed in armour, +_cap-a-pie_, he endeavoured in vain to forget his belligerent +propensities, for, every now and then, when he heard of a siege toward, +he would suddenly sally forth, and having assisted in the skirmish, +again seized with a fit of repentant devotion, would hurry back to some +desolate retreat, and endeavour, by penitence and fasts, to obliterate +the sin he had committed. + +His death was attended by so many miracles that it became necessary to +canonize him; and orders of hermit monks rose up in every quarter, +bearing his name of Guillemins, the chief of which were the Blanc +Manteaux of Paris. The example of sanctity he had set in the latter part +of his life seemed to have been lost on the turbulent and coquettish +Queen of the Court of Love, his daughter, Elionore, and to have been +also sufficiently disregarded by his grandsons. Not that Elionore +neglected to build and endow churches and monasteries in every part of +her dominions, particularly at Poitiers; and, probably, she considered +all offences wiped out by so doing: not excepting her criminal project, +recorded by Bouchet, of quitting her husband, Louis of France, and +"_espousing the Sultan Saladin_, with whose image and portraiture she +had fallen in love." + +Whatever motives Louis le Jeune had in getting rid of his powerful wife, +policy could not be one; for never was a more foolish business; he did +not, perhaps, contemplate, in his shortsightedness, that she would marry +his rival, and carry all her possessions to the crown of England; but he +was sure that by dissolving his marriage he was injuring France. The +account of the state of the great heiress, insulted and injured in so +vital a point, is piteous enough, and not unlike, in position, to the +case of Queen Catherine when repudiated by Henry VIII. + +"This dissolution and separation was signified to Queen Elionore by the +bishops, who undertook the task with great regret, for they knew it +would be very displeasing to the poor lady, who, as soon as the decision +was announced to her, fell in a swoon from the chair on which she sat, +and was for more than two hours without speaking, or weeping, or +unclosing her clenched teeth. And when she was a little come to herself, +she began, with her clear and blue (_vers_) eyes, to look around on +those who brought her the news, and said, 'Ha! my lords, what have I +done to the king that he should quit me? in what have I offended him? +what defect finds he in my person? I am not barren, I am not +illegitimate, nor come of a low race. I am wealthy as he is by my means. +I have always obeyed him; and if we speak of lineage, I spring from the +Emperor Otho the First and King Lothaire; descended in direct line from +Charlemagne; besides which we are relations both by father and mother if +he requires to be informed of it.'" + +"Madam," said the Archbishop of Limoges, "you speak truth indeed. You +are relations; but of that the king was ignorant, and it is for that +very cause that he finds you are not in fact his wife, and the children +you have borne him are not lawful; therefore is this separation +necessary, much to the king's discomfort; he laments it as much or more +than you can do; but he finds that for the safety of your souls this +thing must be done." + +The poor queen could only reply that the pope had the power to grant a +dispensation; but she had no longer any relations to support her, and +still less had she friends; and was obliged to submit. She was then +about six-and-twenty, and the most beautiful woman in France. Henry of +Normandy lost no time in making his proposals to her, which she at first +rejected, being, as she said, resolved never to trust another man; but +his eloquence, and other qualities, and the policy of placing herself in +a powerful position as his queen, heir as he was of England, caused her +to alter her mind; and Henry gained the richest wife in Europe and lost +his happiness for ever. + +There is a frequently-repeated story told of one of the most celebrated +counts of Poitiers, though attributed sometimes to William VIII. and +sometimes to William IX. The series of _Williams_ all appear to have +been more or less _de rudes seigneurs_, who were divided between the +vices and virtues of their period. There is William _Tete d'Etoupes_, +William _Fier-a-bras_, William _the Great_, and William _the +Troubadour_; the latter--now pious, now profane--was at one time +fighting foremost in the christian ranks against the Paynim; at another, +"playing on pipes of straw and versing love" to fair ladies, to whom he +had no right to make himself captivating. He is said to have repudiated +his wife, Phillippa, or Mahaud, and espoused Malberge, the wife of the +Viscount de Chatelleraud, in the life-time of her husband. For this +offence the Bishop of Poitiers resolved to punish him, and, accordingly, +on occasion of a grand public solemnity, in the face of the assembled +multitude, he began the formula of excommunication against the offending +count, regardless of consequences. When William heard, as he sat with +his bold and beautiful lady-love, the first words of the anathema, he +started from his seat, in a transport of surprise and rage, and, drawing +his sword, rushed upon the unflinching churchman, who entreated him to +allow him a short delay. The count paused, and, taking advantage of the +circumstance, the bishop raised his voice, and finished the form of +excommunication in which he had been interrupted. "Now," said he, "you +may strike; I have done my duty and am ready." William was abashed and +humbled, and, returning his sword to its scabbard, exclaimed, "No, +priest, I do not love you well enough to send you straight to Paradise." +He had not, however, the grace to pardon the intrepid priest, for he +banished him to Chauvigny, where he shortly afterwards died, in 1115. +The following is one of the lays of this famous Troubadour, whose songs +are the earliest extant: + + Anew I tune my lute to love, + Ere storms disturb the tranquil hour, + For her who strives my truth to prove, + My only pride, and beauty's flower; + But who will ne'er my pain remove, + Who knows and triumphs in her power. + + I am, alas! her willing thrall; + She may record me as her own: + Nor my devotion weakness call, + That her I prize, and her alone: + Without her can I live at all, + A captive so accustom'd grown? + + What hope have I?--Oh lady dear! + Do I then sigh in vain for thee; + And wilt thou, ever thus severe, + Be as a cloistered nun to me? + Methinks this heart but ill can bear + An unrewarded slave to be! + + Why banish love and joy thy bowers-- + Why thus my passion disapprove? + When, lady, all the world were ours + If thou couldst learn, like me, to love. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + MELUSINE--LUSIGNAN--TROU DE LA FEE--THE LEGEND--MALE CURIOSITY--THE + DISCOVERY--THE FAIRY'S SHRIEKS--THE CHRONICLER--GEOFFROY OF THE + GREAT TOOTH--JACQUES COEUR--ROYAL GRATITUDE--ENEMIES--JEAN DU + VILLAGE--WEDDING--THE BRIDE--THE TRAGEDY OF MAUPRIER--THE + GARDEN--THE SHEPHERDESS--THE WALNUT GATHERERS--LA GATINE--ST. + MAIXANT--NIORT--MADAME DE MAINTENON--ENORMOUS CAPS--CHAMOIS + LEATHER--DUGUESCLIN--THE DAME DE PLAINMARTIN--THE SEA. + + +FULL of anxiety to visit the famous Chateau of Lusignan--the very centre +of romance and mystery--we left Poitiers in the afternoon, and, in two +hours, reached the prettily-situated bourg on the banks of the river +Vanne. We looked out constantly for the towers of the castle of +Melusine, but none appeared. At last I descried a building on an +eminence, which I converted at once into the object desired; but, as +the rain had come on violently and the atmosphere was somewhat dull, I +was not surprised that I did not obtain a better view of the turrets and +donjon, which no doubt frowned over the plain beneath. + +Our vehicle stopped in the middle of a very unpromising stony street, +before a house which presented no appearance of an inn. Here, however, +we were told that we were to alight; and, having done so in a somewhat +disconsolate mood, for the storm had increased in violence, our baggage +was to be disengaged from the huge pile on the top of the diligence, +while we stood by to recognise it. The whole town, meantime, seemed to +have arrived in this, the principal street; and a host of men in blouses +paused round us, all looking with wonder on our arrival, apparently +amazed at our absurdity in stopping at Lusignan; in which reflection we +began to share, as they took possession of our trunks, and examined them +without ceremony, while the conducteur searched his papers, in a sort of +frenzy, to find our names inscribed, and convince himself that we were +the persons named there as his passengers. As we had only been "set +down" as "Dames Anglaises," he seemed inclined to dispute our identity; +and he, and a man who acted as post-master, conned over the paper +together, while all the inhabitants who could get near endeavoured to +catch a peep, not only at the scroll, but the suspected persons. At +length, as we protested against lingering in the rain any longer, +further enquiries were abandoned; the conducteur mounted his box; the +post-master called porters; and the crowd made way for us, while we +followed half-a-dozen guides, who made as much of their packages as they +could; and we at last found shelter. The aspect of affairs now changed: +a very neat landlady, and a smart waiting-maid, ushered us into a +pretty, clean, decorated, raftered room,--the best in the Lion d'Or,--up +a flight of tower stairs; our porters disappeared; the street was +cleared; curiosity seemed amply gratified; and we were left to a good +dinner, and in comfortable quarters. The sun broke forth, and all looked +promising; but where were the towers of the castle? + +This question we repeated frequently, and the answers assured us that +_la haut_ we should see the castle and the "_Trou Meluisin_." We slept +well in our snow-white beds; occasionally hearing, during the night, the +cracked, hollow, unearthly sound of the great church bell of the +Lusignans, to which an equally ghost-like voice on the stair replied. At +day-break the noise of hilarity roused us, and we found that a rural +meeting was taking place below, in the _grand salon_. Our friends of the +day before seemed all met previous to setting out to begin the walnut +gathering; and they uttered strange jocund sounds, more wolfish than +human, without a word which could be, by possibility, construed into the +French language. + +We hurried up the rugged way which was to lead us to the castle; but, +having reached the height, I rubbed my eyes, for I thought the fairy had +been busy during the night, and, by a stroke of her wand, had swept away +every vestige of the castle. Certain it was that not a stone was +left,--not a solitary piece of wall or tower, to satisfy our curiosity! +A pretty little girl of fifteen, who had hurried after us, now +approached, and offered to be our _guide_. We accepted her civility, as +we hoped something would ensue: she led us to a heap of bushes, and, +stooping down and pulling them aside, proclaimed to us, as she pointed +to a dark chasm beneath, that we stood at the entrance of the "Trou de +la Fee." "This," said she, "is the hole which she used to enter, and it +has a way which leads to the wood yonder: she could there rise up at her +fountain, where she bathed; and from thence there is another way leading +as far as Poitiers itself." We asked her if the fairy ever appeared now; +but she laughed, and said, contemptuously, "Oh! no, that is all fable: +it was a great while ago." She had a tragical story of a soldier who +descended, resolving to attempt the adventure; but he was never seen +afterwards, as might easily be expected. She, however, accounted for +his fate without attributing it to supernatural causes: the superstition +of Melusine has disappeared with the turrets of her castle. + +The church is curious, though very much defaced: in the sacristy is a +circular-arched door, elaborately sculptured with the signs of the +Zodiac; but the formerly-existing stones on which the effigy of the +fairy appeared have been entirely swept away. + +The castle of Lusignan was once one of the most beautiful and powerful +_chateaux forts_ in France; so strong and so singular in its +construction that it was attributed to an architect of a world of +spirits,--the famous witch, or fairy, Melusine; about whom so much has +been written and sung for ages, and who still occupies the attention of +the curious antiquary. Her story may be thus briefly told: + +She was married to the Sire Raymondin, of Poitiers; who, struck with her +surpassing beauty, and aware of her great wealth and possessions, had +won her from a host of suitors. He was, however, ignorant that her +nature was different from that of others; and, when she informed him +that, if she consented to be his wife, he must agree that she should, +once a week, absent herself from him, and must promise never to attempt +to penetrate the retreat to which she retired, he gave an unconditional +assent. They had been married some time, and their happiness was +complete; but at length Raymondin's mind began to be disturbed with +uneasy thoughts, and the demon of curiosity took possession of him. His +wife disappeared every week for a single day--some say Saturday--and he +had no idea where she went, or what she occupied herself about. Was it +possible, thought he, that she had some other attachment? Could she be +capable of deceiving his affection? Every time she returned to him she +looked more lovely than ever; and there was a satisfaction in her aspect +that was far from pleasing him. She never alluded to the circumstance of +her retreat; but redoubled her tenderness and kindness to him; and, but +for the growing and increasing anxiety he felt to know the truth, he +might have been the happiest of men. + +Melusine had, according to her wont, taken leave of him on the +accustomed night of her retirement; and he found himself alone in his +chamber. He mused, long and painfully, till he could endure his thoughts +no longer; and, catching up his sword, he rushed to the tower, at the +door of which he had parted with his mysterious lady. The door was of +bronze, elaborately ornamented with strange carvings: it was thick and +strong; but, in his frenzy of impatience, he did not hesitate to strike +it violently with his sharp sword; and, in an instant, a wide cleft +appeared, disclosing to him a sight for which he paid dear. + +In the centre of the chamber he beheld a marble basin, filled with +crystal water; and there, disporting and plunging, was a female form +with the features of his wife. Her golden hair, in undulating waves, +fell over her white bosom and shoulders, and rested on the edge of the +basin, and on the surface of the water; her hands held a comb and a +mirror; and in the latter she occasionally gazed intently as a series of +figures passed across it. Down to her waist it was Melusine; but below +it was no longer the body of a woman, but a scaly marine monster, who +wreathed a glittering tail in a thousand folds; dashing and casting the +silver waves in every direction, and throwing a veil of shining drops +over the beautiful head above, till the walls and ceiling shone with the +sparkling dew, on which an unearthly light played in all directions! + +Raymondin stood petrified, without power to speak or move. An instant +sufficed to disclose to him this unnatural vision; and an instant was +enough to show the fairy that her secret was discovered. She turned her +large lustrous eyes upon him, uttered a loud, piercing shriek, which +shook the castle to its foundation, and all became darkness and silence. +The lord of the chateau passed the rest of his life in penitence and +prayer; but the lady was never afterwards seen by him. + +She had not, however, abandoned her abode; and, always, from that time +till within a few years, she returned whenever any misfortune threatened +the family of Lusignan, screaming round the walls, and rustling with her +serpent folds along the passages, announcing the event. In 1575 the +castle was razed, by order of the Duke de Moutpensier, and for several +nights previous to its demolition, Melusine startled the country round +with her piercing cries. It is even said that certain ancient women in +Lusignan hear her occasionally; but we were not so fortunate as to meet +with any who had been so favoured. + +Bouchet, in his chronicle, acknowledges himself greatly puzzled to +account for the legend of Melusine; for, though he does not hesitate to +believe anything advanced by the Church, he does not feel bound to put +entire faith in a book of romance. "As for me," he says, "I think and +conjecture, that the sons of Melluzine performed many fine feats of +arms; but not in the manner related in the romance; for it must be +recollected that at the period of 1200 were begun to be made many books, +in gross and rude language, and in rhythm of all measure and style, +merely for the pastime of princes, and sometimes for flattery, to vaunt +beyond all reason the feats of certain knights, in order to give courage +to young men to do the like and become brave; such are the said Romance +of Melluzine, those of Little Arthur of Brittany, Lancelot du Lac, +Tristan the Adventurous, Ogier the Dane, and others in ancient verse, +which I have seen in notable libraries: the which have since been put +into prose, in tolerably good language, according to the time at which +they were written, in which are things _impossible to believe, but at +the same time delectable to read_. But, in truth, all that romance of +Melluzine is a dream, and cannot be supported by reason. You may see, in +the said romance, that the children of Melluzine, Geoffrey la +grande-dent, and Guion, and Raimondin, her husband, a native of Forez, +were Christians, and that they fought against, and conquered, the Turks, +and that the said Raimondin was nephew to a Count of Poictou, named +Aymery, who had a son called Bertrand, who was count after him, and a +daughter, Blanche. Now I have not been able to find in any history, +letter, nor _pancarte_, _though I have carefully searched_, that, since +the passion of our Lord, there has been a duke or count in Poictou, +called either Bertrand or Aymery; nor that there have been any such but +what I have enumerated. And as for those events having happened before, +it could not be; for there were then no Christians living, our Lord and +Redeemer not being then on earth." + +The confused chronicler then proceeds to tell the whole serpent-story, +hinting his suspicions that the lady was discovered by her husband to +be unfaithful, and giving an etymology to her name, similar to one we +heard on the spot, namely, that she was lady of _Melle_, a castle near. +Our village archaeologist added, however, that this castle was called +Uzine, and as both belonged to her, she was so called, Melle-Uzine. + +In the fourteenth century, the estates of Lusignan passed into royal +possession. Hugues le Brun left in his will great part of the estates to +the King of France, Phillippe le Bel. His brother, Guy, irritated at +this disposition of the property, cast his will into the fire; on which +the king had him accused of treason, and took possession of the county +of Lusignan, which became confiscated to the crown. It was on this sad +occasion that, for twelve successive nights, the spirit of Melusine +appeared on the platform of the castle, wailing and lamenting in a +pitiable manner, and making the woods and groves re-echo with her +sorrows. + +There is another account, that the castle was greatly added to by a +powerful lord, called _Geoffrey of the Great Tooth_, son of Melusine, +whose effigy might once be seen over the principal entrance of the +donjon-tower; but his existence is as great a problem as that of the +fairy herself. + +Henry II. of England took the castle, and came here in triumph with his +warriors. Louis XII. when Duke of Orleans, passed several sad years in +these walls as a prisoner. It was taken by Admiral de Coligny, in 1569; +but it was lost soon after, and again and again retaken, partially +destroyed, and rebuilt, and at length swept away altogether, leaving +nothing but recollections, a piece of old tower, and Le Trou de +Melusine. + +It once had three circles of defence, bastions, esplanades, moats, and +walls; embattled gates, one called the Gate of Geoffrey of the Great +Tooth, one the Gate of the Tour Poitevine, and the gigantic Tour de +Melusine in the centre of all; its subterranean ways, strange legends, +mysterious passages, and enormous strength, made it a marvel in all +times, and a subject for romance from the earliest ages. + +M. Francisque Michel is the last who has endeavoured to collect its +curious records, and throw some light on its strange history. + +In this castle was imprisoned, during his iniquitous trial, which is an +eternal blot on the name of his ungrateful _friend_, Charles VII. of +France, the rich and noble merchant of Bourges, Jacques Coeur, whose +purse had been opened to the destitute king in his emergencies, and who +had devoted all the energies of his mind to save his country from the +ruin which the idle favourites who surrounded the throne were assisting +as much as possible. His princely liberality, his foresight, and +promptitude, had rescued Charles from perils which seemed +insurmountable. He had come forward with a sum of great magnitude, at +the moment when his royal master was so distressed that he could not +undertake the conquest of Normandy, then possessed by the English. He +paid and supported an army, and Normandy was restored to France. He +rescued the country from poverty and misery, placed its finances in a +flourishing condition, drove marauders from the desolated land, and saw +the little King of Bourges the powerful monarch of regenerated France. +Then came his reward. His inveterate "adversary and enemy, the wicked +Haman," who had been for years watching to accomplish his downfal, +because his evil was not good in the sight of the right-minded and +true-hearted friend of his country,--the detestable Antoine de +Chabannes, Count of Dammartin, rightly judging that Charles would be +glad to rid himself of so enormous a burthen of gratitude as he owed to +Jacques Coeur, concerted with other spirits as wicked as himself, and +succeeded but too well. + +The first step was to shake the public faith in those at the head of the +financial department; but they feared to attack the friend of Charles, +and the acknowledged benefactor of France, _at first_. Money they were +resolved to have, at any rate, without delay, and their first victim was +Jean de Xaincoings, receiver-general. A series of charges were got up +against him, which he was unable to overcome; he was convicted, +sentenced, imprisoned, and his property confiscated. Great was the +exultation of the dissolute lords of the Court, when, in the scramble, +each got a share of the spoil. Dunois--_Le Gentil Dunois_!--the hero of +so many fights--was one of the first to profit by the downfal of this +rich man: his magnificent hotel at Tours was bestowed on the warrior, +who did not blush to receive it. + +Encouraged by this success, and becoming more greedy as they saw how +easy it was to work on the king, when money was in view, the foes of +Jacques Coeur set about accomplishing a similar work, with his colossal +fortune in view as their prize. + +At first, there seemed danger in proposing to the weak monarch to +despoil his friend, and to annihilate a friendship of years, and +obligations of such serious moment; but, to their surprise and delight, +they found his ears open to any tales they chose to bring; and having, +in a lucky hour, fixed on an accusation likely to startle such a mind, +they found all ready to their hands. + +Dammartin brought forward a woman, base enough to swear that the fair +and frail Agnes Sorel had been poisoned by his treasurer. The infamous +Jeanne de Vendome, wife of the Lord of Mortagne sur Gironde, was the +instrument of Chabannes, and her accusation was believed and acted upon. +A host of enemies, like a pack of wolves eager for prey, came howling +on, and the great merchant was dragged from his high seat and hunted to +the death. + +In this very castle of Lusignan, where the fairy Melusine might well +lament over the disgrace of France, in a dungeon, removed from every +hope, languished the man who had, till now, held in his hand the +destinies of Europe; whose galleys filled every port, whose merchandise +crowded every city, who divided with Cosmo de Medici the commerce of the +world. Here did Jacques Coeur reflect, with bitter disappointment, on +all the selfishness, cruelty, meanness, and ingratitude, of the man he +had mainly assisted to regain the throne of his ancestors. It was here +he was told that the falsehood of the charge against him had been +proved; but when he quitted this, the first prison which the gratitude +of the king had supplied him with, it was but to inhabit others; while a +crowd of new accusations were examined, one of which was enough to crush +him. The game was in the hands of his foes; his gold glittered too near +their eyes; their clutches were upon his bags; their daggers were ready +to force his chests; they were led on by one whose avarice was only +equalled by his profligate profusion, and he was a prisoner kept from +his own defence. + +The wealth of Jacques Coeur was poured into the laps of _Charles_ and +his harpy courtiers, and the victim was consigned to oblivion. Of all he +had saved and supported, one man alone was grateful--_Jean du Village_, +_his clerk_, devoted himself to his master's interests, and his life, +and part of his property abroad, were saved. + +The fate of the great merchant is still a mystery. His mock trial was +decided by the commission appointed to examine him at the castle of +Lusignan, in May, 1453, and judgment was pronounced by Guillaume +Jouvenel des Ursins, chancellor of France, after the king _had taken +cognisance of and approved it_![7] + +[Footnote 7: For account of Jacques Coeur and his dwelling at Bourges, +see "Pilgrimage to Auvergne."] + +A wedding was going on while we were wandering between the castle and +the church, and we met the party on our way, preceded by the usual +violin accompaniment. Our young guide was greatly interested in the +proceedings, and told us the names and station of the parties concerned. +"What an odd thing it is," said she, "to be married. For two or three +days everybody runs out of their houses to stare at the bride and +bridegroom, as if they were a king and queen, though one has seen them a +thousand times before, and, after that, they may pass in the street and +nobody thinks of looking at them." + +Marie Poitiers and Rene Blanc were the happy pair on this occasion; the +name of the bridegroom amused me, as I was reminded of the perfumer and +poisoner of Queen Catherine, Rene Bianco, who had lately furnished me +with a _hero_ for a romance. This Rene was, however, a very +harmless-looking personage, a daily labourer, but "bien riche," as was +his bride, who also worked in the fields, but had a very good property +near Lusignan. "All the family are very well off; but, they work like +other people. Only you see," said our guide, "that the bride's sister, +who is so pretty, dresses in silk like a _grande dame_, and does not +wear the peasant's cap like the rest." The cap of the bride was worthy +of attention, as were those of most of the party. As they were amongst +the first of the kind we had seen, they attracted us extremely, though +we afterwards got quite familiar with their strange appearance. In this +part of the country, the peasants wear a cap, large, square, and high, +of a most inconvenient size, and remarkably ugly shape: they get larger +and squarer as you approach La Rochelle, and cease before you arrive at +Bordeaux. The bride's was of thin embroidered muslin, edged with lace, +placed in folds over a high, square quilted frame, which supported it as +it spread itself out, broad and flaunting, making her head look of a +most disproportionate size. Silver ribbon bows and orange flowers were +not omitted, and she wore a white satin sash tied behind, which floated +over her bright gown and apron. A large silver cross hung on her breast, +her handkerchief was richly embroidered, and her stockings very white +and smart, though her feet and legs were somewhat ponderous, and did not +seem accustomed to their adornment of the day, _sabots_ of course being +her ordinary wear. She was led by her father, whom I mistook for the +mayor, he was so decorated with coloured ribbons, and strode along with +so dignified an air, his large black hat shading his happy, florid face. + +The bridegroom closed a very long procession, as he led the bride's +mother along: they were going to the Mairie, where, after signing, +Made. Blanc would take her husband's arm, and walk back again through +the town to hear mass, when _ses bagues_ would be presented to her by +her lord. Great excitement seemed to prevail in Lusignan, in consequence +of this event, and smiles and gaiety were the order of the day. + +Our hostess proposed accompanying us to a chateau not far distant, in +order that we might see the country, and as it was fine and not very +damp we set out with her, having stopped in the town at a little +chandler's shop for her sister who wished to be of the party. + +Their mother--a dignified old lady, who looked as if she had been a +housekeeper at some chateau--welcomed us into her shop, and set chairs +while her daughter was getting ready, when she resumed her knitting, and +conversed on the subject of their metropolis, Poitiers, with which she +appeared partially acquainted. She detailed to us several of the +miracles of Ste. Radegonde, for whom she had an especial respect, and +assured us there was no saint in the country who had so distinguished +herself. I was surprised, after this, that she treated the story of +Melusine as a fable, though she believed in the existence of the +subterranean way, and told us of the riches supposed still to exist +beneath the castle and in the ruins. One man, lately, in taking away +stones to build a house, stumbled on a heap of money which had evidently +been placed for concealment beneath the walls, and coins of more or less +value, and of various dates, are found, from time to time, as the large +stones are removed for building, any one being at liberty to demolish +whatever ancient wall they find in the neighbourhood. + +Our walk was an extremely pleasant one, for the country round is very +pretty and rural; it terminated at the Chateau de Mauprier, a private +residence, which appears to have been formerly a fortified manor-house, +to judge by its moat and the square and round towers which still remain. +The "park" leading to it is a series of beautiful alleys, some of the +trees of which are allowed to grow naturally, others are cut into form, +with fine grassy walks between, covered with rich purple heath here and +there in nooks. The walks branch off from space to space in stars, +leaving open glades of emerald turf between. + +As we approached the lodge through the slovenly gate half off its +hinges, the sound of wailing reached us from within, and, entering the +room whence it proceeded, we became witnesses of a sad scene of +desolation. There was no fire on the hearth, all looked dismal and +wretched; a great girl of twelve stood sobbing near the table, a younger +one sat at the door, and, with her feet on the damp earthen floor, +rocking herself backwards and forwards on a low chair, sat a small, thin +woman, moaning piteously, and wringing her hands. + +Of course we thought she was bewailing some severe domestic bereavement, +and our companions, who were full of friendly commiseration, began to +question her, but could obtain no answer but tears and cries. At length, +by dint of coaxing and remonstrance, we discovered that the tragedy +which had happened was as follows: + +The gardener-porter was entrusted by his master with the care of the +live stock of the farm; his wife had sent a child of about eight years +of age into the woods with a flock of turkeys; the young guardian had +been seduced by fruit or flowers to wander away, forgetting her charge, +and they followed her example, and dispersed themselves in all +directions. The consequence was, that an ill-disposed fox, who was lying +in wait, took the opportunity of way-laying them, and no less than seven +had become his victims: the little girl had returned to tell her loss, +was beaten and turned out of doors; the husband's rage had been fearful, +and, though a night and day had elapsed, and the second evening was +coming on, the disconsolate wife had not risen from her chair, nor +ceased her lamentations. The turkeys must be replaced; the little girl +was not her own, but an _enfant trouvee_, whom she had nursed and loved +as her own--and how was she to be received after her crime! the husband +was irate, the children were miserable, neither cookery nor fire were to +be seen, and despair reigned triumphant. A small present, and a good +deal of reasoning, brought her a little to herself; and we persuaded the +eldest girl to light the fire, and give her mother something to revive +her; the father was sent for; but the poor woman fainted, and we lifted +her into bed; where we at length left her now repentant husband +attending her, and promising to reproach no one any more about the fox +and the turkeys. + +Nothing could possibly do less credit to the gardener than the +appearance of the grounds, where liberty reigned triumphant; every +thing, from enormous gourds of surprising size to grapevines in +festoons, being allowed to grow as it listed; yet the original laying +out was pretty, and if half-a-dozen men were employed, as would be the +case in England, the gardens might be made very agreeable. The +proprietor is, however, an old man who spends a great deal of his time +in Poitiers; and, as all French people do when at their country places, +merely conceals himself for a few months, and cares little about +appearances, provided his fruit and vegetables are produced in the +required quantity. We heard that he was a most excellent and indulgent +man, very liberal to the poor, and generous to his people; and our +hostess assured us, that if he knew of the wretchedness the loss of his +turkeys had caused in his gardener's family, it would give him real +pain, and he would at once forgive them their debt to him. Perhaps the +knowledge of his kindness might be one reason of his servant's vexation; +but though that feeling was honourable to him, we could not forgive him +for his severity to his poor, silly terrified little wife. + +As we returned by another, and a very pretty way, we met a young girl, +to whom our guides, who were zealous in the cause, told the story of her +neighbour's illness; she promised to go to her and offer her aid as soon +as she could, and expressed her disgust at the cruelty of the husband, +whose character, she said, was brutal in the extreme. While they were +talking, I remarked the appearance of the shepherdess, who was certainly +one of the most charming specimens of a country Phillis I ever beheld. +Her age might be about eighteen; she was tall, and well made, with a +healthy, clear complexion, a good deal bronzed with the sun; teeth as +white as pearls, and as even as possible; rather a wide, but very +prettily shaped mouth; fine nose; cheeks oval and richly tinted; fine +black eyes filbert shaped, and delicately-pencilled eyebrows, perfectly +Circassian; a small white forehead, and shining black hair in braids: +the expression of her smile was the most simple and innocent +imaginable, and the total absence of anything like thought or intellect, +made her face a perfect reflection of that of one of her own lambs. Her +costume was extremely picturesque; and her head-dress explained at once +the mystery of the cap of Anne Boleyn, of which it was a model, no doubt +an unchanged fashion from the time of, and probably long before, +Marguerite de Valois. It was of white, thick, stiff muslin, pinched into +the three-cornered shape so becoming to a lovely face, precisely like +the Holbein head, but that the living creature was much prettier than +the great master usually depicted his princesses. Her petticoat was dark +blue, her apron white, and so was her handkerchief, and round her +handsome throat was a small hair chain, or ribbon, with a little gold +cross attached. Her feet were in _sabots_; and she held a whip in her +hand, with which to chastise her stray sheep; on her arm hung a flat +basket, in which were probably her provisions for the day, or she might +have filled it with walnuts which were being gathered close by. I never +saw a sweeter figure altogether, and her merry, ringing laugh, and +curious _patois_ sounded quite in character; she was just the sort of +girl Florian must have seen to describe his Annette from; but I did not +meet with any peasant swain in the neighbourhood worthy to have been her +Lubin. Her beauty was, however, rare, for we were not struck with any of +the peasants besides, as more than ordinarily good-looking; but, seen +anywhere, this girl must have attracted attention. + +We soon, on entering a long avenue, came upon a party of +walnut-gatherers, to whom the tragedy of the fox was again detailed, +while groups came round us to hear and comment on the event, which +appeared to be formed to enliven the monotony of a country existence as +much as a piece of scandal in a town. + +Seated on the ground, quietly eating walnuts, in the midst of a ring of +other children, sat the little delinquent of the tale, as unmoved and +unconscious as if she had not caused a perfect hurricane of talk and +anxiety in the commune; she turned her large gypsy black eyes on me with +an expression almost of contempt, as I asked her a few questions, and +recommended her caution in future. As one of the reports we had gathered +on our way was, that the child, after being beaten, had run away into +the woods and had not since re-appeared, we were not sorry to find her +here; but as she looked saucy and careless, and able to bear a good deal +of severity, and was besides several years older than had been +represented, our sympathy was little excited in her favour. "She has +acted in this way often before," said a bystander, "and cannot be made +to work or to do anything she is told." She had strangely the appearance +of a Bohemian, and her fondness for the _dolce far niente_ increased my +suspicions of her parentage. The tenderness of her foster-mother for her +was, however, not to be changed by her ill-conduct, for she was said to +prefer her to her own children, in spite of her faults: so capricious is +affection. + +The road from Lusignan to Niort is through a very pleasing country, +sometimes _bocage_, and sometimes _gatine_: the latter term being +generally applied to a country of rocks, where the soil does not allow +of much cultivation. This is, however, not always the case, for on +several occasions I have heard, as at Chartres, a little wood called _la +gatine_; and once at Hastings was surprised, on inquiring my way in the +fields, to be directed to pass the _gattin_ hard by; namely a small +copse. The word is said to be Celtic, and may be derived either from +_geat_, which means a plot of ground, or _geas_, a thick branch. + +We were much struck with the town of St. Maixant; which is approached by +beautiful boulevards, and the environs are very rich and fine; the road +does not lead within the walls, but outside; and there was no reason to +regret this, as the streets are narrow and ill-built, while the +promenades round are charming. The Sevre Niortaise bathes the foot of +the hill on which St. Maixant stands, and beyond rises the forest of +Hermitaine, once part of the celebrated Vauclair, where some famous +hermits took up their abode, and made the spot holy. Clovis assisted the +recluses who had chosen this retreat as their abode, and granted them +land and wood; a monastery was soon formed and the town grew round it. +There is a fine cascade near La Ceuille, of which, or rather of the +stream which flowed from it, we caught a glimpse on approaching St. +Maixant; it falls from the _coteau_ called Puy d'Enfer, and it is one of +the wonders of the neighbourhood. The old walls of the town now appear +to enclose gardens, and all looks smiling and gay; but they have +sustained many a rude siege at different periods, and suffered much +during the wars of La Vendee. + +At mid-day we reached Niort, a fine, clean, good-looking new town, with +scarcely any antiquity left, though of ancient renown: a Celtic city +with a Celtic name; a castle whose date cannot be ascertained; a palace +inhabited by the great heroine of the country, Elionor; and convents and +monasteries of infinite wealth and celebrity. That singular and famous +community established by the Troubadour Count of Poitou, Guillaume IX., +was at Niort, and was replaced by the holy Capuchin brothers, who must +have been sufficiently scandalized at the conduct of the fair devotees +who preceded them in their cells. + +The Duchess Elionor was married to Henry II. at Niort, and lived here +frequently. We hoped to see some remains of her palace, but found only +a large square building which might have formed a part of it; though its +form, which is an isolated tower, makes it difficult to imagine how it +could be in any way connected with the rest of the palace; this tower is +now used as the Hotel de Ville; its lozenge and circle ornaments appear +not to be of older date than Francis I.; and we could scarcely persuade +ourselves, however ready to believe in antiquities, that the +all-powerful lady of Aquitaine, or her warrior husband, ever sat within +these walls. + +A curious privilege was granted by the pope, in 1461, to the mayor, +aldermen, sheriffs, councillors, peers, and citizens of Niort, to be +buried in the habit, and with the cord round their waists, of the +Cordeliers: it is not recorded that the ladies of the town petitioned to +be dressed as well in their coffins as the nuns whose beauty delighted +William the Ninth, or they might have gone to their last fete in-- + + "A charming chintz and Brussels lace." + +The most remarkable recollection connected with Niort, is that, in the +prison of the town, called La Conciergerie, where her father was +confined for the crime of forgery, was born Francoise D'Aubigne, +afterwards the wife of Scarron, and by the favour of Louis XIV., +Marquise de Maintenon, in whom the triumph of hypocrisy was complete. +One of the streets is called by her name; but it is not recorded that +she ever did anything for her native town; probably she was not anxious +to perpetuate the memory of any part of her early life, not seeing fit +to be quite so communicative on the subject as her brother, whose tongue +she had so much difficulty in keeping quiet. + +Niort is a very pleasant, lively-looking town--that is, for a French +town, where the nearest approach to gaiety is the crowd which a weekly +market brings, or the groups of laughing, talking women, which the +ceaseless occupation of washing collects on the banks of the river. We +were much amused here with the latter, and stood some time on the bridge +below the frowning round towers, of strange construction, which serve as +a prison, to observe the manoeuvres of the washerwomen, who, in their +enormous, misshapen, towering, square caps, were beating and scrubbing +away at their linen. Nothing can appear so inconvenient as this +head-dress when its wearer is engaged in domestic duties; yet the women +are constantly to be seen with it; rarely, as in Normandy, contenting +themselves with the under frame alone, and placing the huge mass of +linen or muslin over it when their work is done. On one occasion we +travelled with a _bourgeoise_ whose cap was so enormous, that she could +scarcely get into the coach, and when once in had to stoop her head the +whole time to avoid crushing the transparent superstructure of lace and +muslin, which it is the pleasure of the belles of Poitou to deform +themselves with. We were, however, assured that this costume was +becoming, and that many a girl passed for pretty who wore it, who would +be but ordinary in a plain, round, every-day cap. Sometimes this +monstrosity is ornamented with gold pins, or buttons, all up the front, +and the variety of arrangement of the muslin folds, both before and +behind, is curious enough. It has occasionally frilled drapery depending +from its height, hanging about half way down behind, or crossed over and +sticking out at the sides, making it as wide as possible; I have seen +some that could not be less than a foot and a half wide, and about a +foot high; but some are even larger than this, extravagant as the +description appears. The pyramidal Cauchoise caps are as high, it is +true, or even higher, but there is an approach to grace in them, while +those of Poitou are hideous as to form, even when the materials are +light; those of the commonest sort are of coarse linen or cotton, and +reach the very acme of ugliness. + +One of the great articles of commerce here is the preparation of chamois +leather, which is said to be brought to great perfection; but, perhaps, +like the cutlery so celebrated in so many towns, and boasted of as +_equal to the English_, this famous production might be looked upon by +an English tradesman as mere "leather and prunella." + +There is an attempt at a _passage_ here--the great ambition of country +towns which think to rival Paris; but, as usual, it appears to be a +failure, the shops looking common-place and shabby, and the place +deserted and dismal. The public library is good, and there are several +handsome public buildings; the churches are without interest, except one +portal of Notre Dame, where we observed some mutilated, but very +beautiful, twisted columns, whose wreaths were continued round a pointed +arch in a manner I never recollect to have seen before, and which seems +to indicate that the church must once have been extremely elaborate in +its ornament. + +Niort was a great object of contention during the wars of the Black +Prince. The famous Duguesclin is said to have taken the town by +stratagem from the English. + +At the siege of Chisey, where Duguesclin had been successful, he had +killed all the English garrison; and, taking their tunics, had clothed +his own people in them, over their armour: so that, when those of Niort +saw his party approaching, and heard them cry, "St. George!" they +thought their friends were returning victors, and readily opened their +gates; when they were fatally undeceived; being all taken or put to the +sword. + +Here Duguesclin, and his fortunate band, remained for four days; +reposing and refreshing themselves. After which they rode forth to +Lusignan: where they found the castle empty; all the garrison having +abandoned it as soon as the news of the taking of Chisey reached them. +The French, therefore, without trouble, took possession of "this fine +and strong castle," and then continued their way to that of +Chatel-Acart, held by the Dame de Plainmartin, for her husband Guichart +d'Angle, who was prisoner in Spain. + +When the lady found, says Froissart, that the constable Duguesclin was +come to make war upon her, she sent a herald to him, desiring to be +allowed a safe conduct, that she might speak with him in his tent. He +granted her request; and the lady accordingly came to where he was +encamped in the field. Then she entreated him to give her permission +that she might go safely to Poitiers, and have audience of the Duke de +Berry. Duguesclin would not deny her, for the love of her husband, +Guichart; and, giving her assurance that her lands and castle should be +respected during her absence, she departed, and he directed his troops +to march on Mortemer. + +Such good speed did the lady of Plainmartin make, that she soon arrived +in Poitiers; where she found the Duke de Berry. He received her very +graciously, and spoke very courteously to her, as was his wont. The lady +would fain have cast herself on her knees before him; but he prevented +her. She then said: "My lord, you know that I am a lone woman, without +power or defence, and the widow of a living husband, if it so pleases +God; for my lord Guichart is prisoner in Spain, and in the danger of the +king of that country. I therefore supplicate you, that, during the +enforced absence of my husband, you will grant that my castle, lands, +myself, my possessions, and my people, shall be left at peace; we +engaging to make no war on any, if they do not make war on us." + +The Duke de Berry made no hesitation in granting the prayer of the lady; +for, although Messire Guichart d'Angle, her husband, was a good and +true Englishman, yet was he by no means hated by the French. He, +therefore, delivered letters to her, with guarantee of surety; with +which she was fully satisfied and much comforted. She then hastened back +to her castle, and sent the orders to the constable, who received them +with much willingness and joy. He was then before the castle of +Mortemer; the lady of which at once yielded it to him, out of dread, and +placed herself in obedience to the king of France, together with all her +lands and the castle of Dienne. + +We left Niort at day-break and continued our way through a very +cultivated and rich country, admirably laid out, neatly enclosed, and +with a great extent of very carefully-pruned vines, which had here lost +the grace which distinguishes them in the neighbourhood of the Loire, +where they are allowed to hang in festoons, and grow to a reasonable +height. Here they are kept low, and seem attended to with care. The road +is level, but the scenes pleasing and the air fine; though, as you +advance in the ancient Aunis, towards the sea, low grounds, which have +been marshes, extend to a considerable distance. As we approached La +Rochelle this was very apparent; but still all looked rich and +agreeable, and the idea of soon feeling the sea-breeze was so comforting +that our spirits were greatly raised; and when on a sudden a broad +glare, at a distance, of bright sunshine on an expanse of water broke +on our view, we were quite in ecstasies. We could distinguish white +sails, and towers, and spires, on the shore; and all the memories of the +Protestant town came crowding on our minds, as we turned every windmill +we saw into an ancient tower formerly defended by a brave Huguenot +against a host of besiegers. There are no want of these defences round +La Rochelle; and every windmill has a most warlike aspect, as they are +all built in the form of round towers, of considerable strength; +probably owing to the necessity of making them strong enough to resist +the gales which frequently prevail. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + LA ROCHELLE--LES TROIS CHANDELIERS--OYSTERS--BATHING + ESTABLISHMENT--GAIETY--MILITARY DISCIPLINE--CURIOUS ARCADES--STORY + OF AUFFREDY. + + +ON arriving at La Rochelle, early in a bright morning at the beginning +of September, we found the town so full that we had immediately to +institute a search for an hotel, as that at which we stopped had no +accommodation. We judged so before we alighted from the _coupe_, by the +air of indifference visible on the face of every waiter and +chambermaid, to whom our arrival seemed a matter of pity, rather than +congratulation. After seeking through the greatest part of the town, we +were conducted to a curious-looking street, from the roofs of almost +every house in which projected grinning _gargouilles_, whose grotesque +faces peeped inquisitively forth from the exalted position which they +had maintained for several centuries; and, glaring in inviting grandeur, +swung aloft a board on which was depicted three golden candlesticks. At +Les Trois Chandeliers, accordingly, we applied, and found admission; the +slovenly, but good-humoured landlady bestirring herself instantly to get +ready the only room she had vacant. She was assisted in her various +arrangements, or rather attended, by a sulky-looking girl with a hideous +square cap; who stood by while her mistress heaped mattress upon +mattress, and bustled about with zealous noise and clatter. She gave us +to understand that certain of her neighbours were apt to give themselves +airs, and accept or refuse visitors as their caprice dictated; but, for +her part, she had no pride, and never acted in so unkind a manner: she +always attended to everything herself; so that every one was satisfied +in her house, and the Trois Chandeliers maintained its reputation of a +century, during which time it had always been kept by one of the family. +Considering these facts, the state of the entrance and kitchen, through +which, as is usual in France, visitors must pass to arrive at the +_salon_, somewhat surprised us. The wide, yawning, black gulf, down +which we had dived from the street, reminded us strongly of the entrance +of the Arenes, at Poitiers, which gave passage to the beasts about to +combat: it was a low, vaulted passage, encumbered with waggons and +diligences and wheelbarrows, with no light but what it gained from the +street and a murky court beyond; it was paved with uneven stones, +between which were spaces filled with mud; dogs and ducks sported along +the gutter in the centre, following which, you arrived at some dirty +steps leading to the kitchen, or, if you preferred a longer stroll +amidst the shades, you might arrive at a low door which led through +another court to the dining-room, which was a handsome apartment adorned +with statues and crimson-and-white draperies, with a flower-garden +opening from it. This room we were not sorry to enter, lured by the +promise of some of the finest oysters in Europe. We had heard their +eulogium before from a very talkative artist of Poitiers, who described +them as of enormous, nay incredible, size, but delicate as _natives_: we +were, therefore, surprised to see perfect miniatures, not larger than a +shilling, very well-flavoured, but _unfed_. They form the _delices_ of +all this part of the world, at this season, and are eagerly sought for +from hence to the furthest navigable point of the Garonne. + +We were particularly fortunate in the weather, which was bright, warm, +and inspiriting; and when we reached the walk which leads to the baths, +we were in raptures with the whole scene which presented itself. The +fine broad sea, smooth and green, lay shining in the sun, without a +ripple to disturb its serenity; and for about a quarter of a mile along +its margin extended one of the most beautiful promenades I ever beheld. +The first part of it is planted with small young trees, on each side of +a good road, which extends between verdant plains where _glacis_ are +thrown up. This leads to the great walk; a thick grove of magnificent +trees, shading a very wide alley of turf of _English_ richness. Here and +there are placed seats, and all is kept with the greatest neatness. The +establishment of the baths is ornamental, and pretty, and very +extensive. About half way up this promenade, next the sea, grounds laid +out with taste, and affording shade and pastime in their compartments, +surround the building. A Chinese pagoda, a Grecian temple, numerous +arbours and seats are there for strollers; and swings and see-saws for +the exercise of youthful bathers after their dips. Altogether, it is the +most charming place of the kind I ever saw: the warm baths are as good +as possible, and the arrangement of those in the sea are much better +than at Dieppe, Havre, or Granville. There is a row of little pavilions +on the edge of the sea, where bathers undress; and a paved way leads +them to an enclosed space where are numerous poles fixed, with ropes +reaching from one to the other at different depths. The bathers hold by +these ropes: and a large company can thus assemble in the water +together, and take as much of the sea as they please, unaccompanied by +guides; but, if they are timid, there are _men_ ready to attend and +protect them. The costume is a tunic and trowsers of cloth or stuff, +with a large handkerchief over the head. Hour after hour will the +adventurous bathers continue in the water; dancing, singing, and +talking, while the advancing waters dash, splash, and foam all round +them, exciting peals of laughter and screams of delight. + +Separated by a high partition, and at a little distance, overlooked, +however, by the strollers in the gardens above, is the gentlemen's +compartment. These bathers usually run along a high platform, +considerably raised, and leap into the sea beneath them; diving down, +and re-appearing, much to the amusement of each other; while a guide +sits on a floating platform near, ready to lend assistance, or give +instruction in natation, if required. + +The season, we understood, had been particularly brilliant this year, +and was scarcely yet over; though the ball-room and reading-rooms were +less crowded than a few weeks before, when we were told that all that +was gay and splendid in France _et l'Etranger_ was to be seen beneath +the striped canopies of the sea-baths of La Rochelle. Certainly a more +enjoyable place cannot be found anywhere; and I was not surprised that +anything so rare and really comfortable and agreeable should meet with +success. With any of the brilliant _toilettes_ which were described to +me I did not, however, meet; as all the bathers I saw were in cloaks and +slouch bonnets, and the company we met appeared by no means +distinguished; peasants forming a great proportion. However, the season +was nearly over, and one could not expect to see the _elegans_ so late; +but I have always observed that the accounts I have heard of the +brilliancy of French fashionable meetings are by no means borne out by +the reality. At Neris, at the Monts Dores, and other places, I have been +equally disappointed on seeing the manner of French living at +watering-places; but it always appears to me that, except in Paris, +there is no attempt at out-of-door style or gaiety anywhere. A solitary +equipage, filled with children, met us every day in our walks, and a +hired barouche, for the use of the baths, toiled backwards and forwards, +hour after hour; but, except these, we saw no carriages at all, and the +walkers were principally tradespeople in smart caps and shawls. One +morning, indeed, we were surprised by the sound of musical strains and +the appearance of an officer or two on horseback, followed by a +regiment, on their way to exercise; every man of one company was singing +at the top of his voice, joined by the officer who marched in front, and +who kept beating time, a very merry song and chorus, which we stopped to +listen to, _only a moment_, as the words were not quite so much to be +admired as the air. This seemed to us a strange, and not very decorous +scene, and was so little in accordance with our ideas of propriety or +good taste that we turned away in disgust. However, since it is the +custom for officers and men in France to sit together in _cafes_, +playing at dominos, drinking wine and beer, and putting no restraint +upon their conversation, or acknowledging any superiority, there was +nothing extraordinary in the familiarity I had witnessed. How this sort +of association can be relished by officers of gentle breeding I cannot +conceive; and many of them must be so, though a great part are men who, +having risen from the ranks, have not been accustomed to more refined +companionship. If it be true that + + "Strict restraint, once broken, ever balks + Conquest and fame," + +and that it is dangerous for those under command to + + "----Swerve + From law, however stern, which tends their strength to nerve," + +it is difficult to comprehend how the French army is regulated. + +The next company which followed the vocal party, came hurrying along, +helter-skelter, as if no drilling had ever been thought necessary in +their military education; but, while we were remarking the "admired +disorder" of their march, we heard their commanding officer's voice loud +in reprobation; we could scarcely help comparing the whole scene to that +which a militia regiment might present in some country town in England: +"What are you all about?" cried the commander; "Eh, mon Dieu! One would +say it was a flock of sheep instead of a party of soldiers!" This +admonition brought them into some order, and they advanced a little less +irregularly, but still in as slovenly a manner as could well be +conceived. If the French were not known to be good soldiers, one would +think this laxity of discipline little likely to make them so; but they +are, like French servants, good enough in their way, though careless in +the extreme, and too tenacious to be spoken to. + +La Rochelle is a more remarkable town, from the characteristic features +it exhibits, than any we had met with since we set out on our tour. +Although there is a great deal new in the streets and outskirts, yet +much that originally existed remains. For instance, almost the whole +centre of the town is built in the same manner: namely, in arcades. +These arcades project from the ground-floors, are more or less high and +broad, and more or less well paved; but they run along uninterruptedly, +forming a shelter from sun or rain, as it may happen, and extending +along the whole length of the streets on each side. They are generally +of stone, with heavy pillars and circular arches, quite without grace or +beauty, but peculiar, and giving an Oriental character to the place. In +some streets arcades, higher and wider, have been newly erected, which +are tolerably ornamental; but the more antique they are, the lower, +narrower, and closer. The Rochellois are very proud of their arcades, +boasting that they are, by their means, never kept prisoners or annoyed +by either rain or sun; they forget that these heavy conveniences +completely exclude the light in winter from the lower part of their +houses, and, confining the air, must make the town damp and unwholesome. + +When we first walked along beneath these awnings we found it extremely +difficult to distinguish one street from another, and were continually +losing ourselves, as they branch off in all directions, with no change +of aspect to distinguish them: + + "Each alley has a brother, + And half the _covered way_ reflects the other," + +but we got used to them by degrees. There is a sort of _Palais Royal_ +effect in the pretty shops under the neatest piazzas; and from the +beautiful wooded square, the Place d'Armes, the range which forms one +side looks remarkably well. This Place is peculiarly fine and +agreeable; it was formed on the sites of the ancient chateau, demolished +in 1590, of the chapel of St. Anne and its cemetery, of the grand +Protestant temple, and the old Hotel des Monnaies; it, therefore, +occupies a large space, and is planted on two sides with fine trees, +called the _Bois d' Amourettes_, and closed on the fourth by the +cathedral; part of the ramparts of the town, open towards the sea, are +behind, and thus a good air is introduced into the square. On moon-light +nights it is a charming promenade; for the effects of the sky here are +admirable: a range of handsome _cafes_ extends along one part, whose +lights, gleaming between the trees, have a lively appearance, and the +groups of lounging citizens seated under the shades give a life to the +scene which the rest of the town does not possess. La Rochelle is, +however, infinitely less dull than the generality of French towns; and +the quays and shipping, and the constantly-changing sea, prevent it from +wearing the sad aspect which distinguishes France in her country places. +Notwithstanding all that travellers are in the habit of saying about the +liveliness of France, I never can cease to think that it is a dull +country; for, except Paris in its season, there is no movement, no +activity, no bustle, in its towns, save, now and then, the confusion of +market-days. Why England is considered _triste_, either in town or +country, I cannot imagine: the brilliancy of its shops alone, compared +to the little dark, dingy cells always met with abroad, even in the most +fashionable quarters, might rescue our much-maligned country from the +reproach which does not belong to it. + +The cathedral of La Rochelle is a modern building; still unfinished, and +possessing no interest: it is very vast, for it stands where once stood +the antique church--older than the town itself--of Notre Dame de +Cougnes. Here and there, outside, a projecting buttress and part of an +arch, built up, betrays its venerable origin; but, besides this, nothing +remains of the original foundation. + +At the back of the cathedral we remarked, as we passed through the +street, a very large building, with a great many windows, above the +portal of which were inscribed the words, _Hopital M. Auffredy_. We were +puzzled to make out what this could mean, as the hospital was so large +and important that it scarcely would appear to be the institution of a +private person. Our inquiries gained us no information, and we continued +to pass and repass still wondering who this _Monsieur Auffredy_ could be +whose name was so conspicuous. When, at length, I found how much +interest attached to this place I reproached myself that I should have +gone near it without reverence, or have carelessly named its institutor; +whose romantic story is as follows, as near as I have been able to +gather it: + + +STORY OF ALEXANDER AUFFREDY. + +At the time when the beautiful and wealthy, the admired and +accomplished, heiress of Aquitaine, presided over her courts of Love, +now in one city of her extensive dominions, now in another, delighting +and astonishing the whole troubadour world with her liberality, her +taste, her learning, grace, and gaiety, lived, in the city of La +Rochelle, a rich merchant, named Alexander Auffredy, young, handsome, +esteemed and envied. His generosity and wealth, added to his personal +attractions, made him an object of observation and remark, and it was +not long before his name reached the ears of Queen Elionore, who, always +desirous to surround herself with all that was gay, brilliant, and +distinguished, sent an invitation, or rather a command, to the young +merchant to appear at her Court at Poitiers. + +Auffredy went; and but a short time elapsed before he became the +favourite of that brilliant circle where beauty and genius reigned +triumphant; for it was discovered that his talent for music was of the +highest order; his voice, in singing, of rare perfection; his verses +full of grace and fire, his manners equal to those of the most finished +courtier; and his judgment in the weighty decisions of the courts of +Love, sound and good. Even the poets and musicians, who saw him +distinguished for the time above themselves, felt little envy towards +him, since they shared his profuse liberality, and were encouraged by +his generous admiration, loudly expressed. He was passionately attached +to literature, and had so correct a taste that whatever he admired was +the best in its kind, and his criticisms were so judicious that not a +doubt could remain on the minds of any who listened to his opinion; yet +he was never harsh, and, wherever it was possible, showed indulgence; it +was only to the presuming and superficial that he was severe; and +amongst that class he was by no means beloved; for, after his expressed +contempt and censure had laid open to view the faults of many +compositions, whose false glare had attracted praise, their authors sunk +at once into the obscurity which they deserved. + +His chief friends were Bernard de Ventadour, whose lays, mysteriously +addressed to _Bel Viser_ and _Conort_, had gained him so much fame; +Rudel, the enthusiast, who devoted his life to an imaginary passion; +Adhemar and Rambaud d'Aurenge, whose songs were some of the sweetest of +their time; and Pierre Rogiers, who sighed his soul away for "Tort +n'avetz;" and, amongst them all, his poems were held in the greatest +esteem. The beautiful and coquettish mistress of the revels was not +insensible to his qualities, and was anxious to appropriate him to +herself; greedy of praise, and ever desirous of admiration, she used +every art to enthral him, and to render the passion real, which it was +the fashion at her Court to feign, towards herself; but, though +flattered and delighted at the preference shown him by her whom all were +trying to please, it was not towards the Queen that Auffredy turned the +aspirations of his soul. There was at Court a young and beautiful girl, +the orphan of a knight who had fallen in the holy wars, and who was +under the guardianship of her uncle, the Baron de Montlucon; she was as +amiable in disposition as lovely in person. Auffredy soon found that his +liberty was gone while he gazed upon her, but his modesty prevented his +attempting to declare his passion, though in his lays he took occasion +to express all the feelings he experienced, and he saw with delight, not +only that the charming Beatrix listened with pleased attention when he +sung, but was even moved to tears when he uttered the lamentations of an +unhappy lover. + +Upon one occasion he sang a lay which Queen Elionore imagined was +inspired by herself; but which, in reality, he intended should convey to +Beatrix his timid passion; it was as follows--in the style of the +Eastern poets, then so much imitated and admired:-- + + + LAY. + + "I only beg a smile from thee + For all this world of tenderness; + I let no eye my weakness see, + To none my hopes or fears express; + I never speak thy praises now, + My tongue is mute, and cold my brow. + + "Even like that fabled bird am I + Who loves the radiant orb of night, + Sings on in hopeless melody + And feeds upon her beams of light; + But never does the planet deign + To pity his unceasing pain." + +As he sung he would observe the eyes of Beatrix fixed on him with a +tender expression; but their meaning was still obscure; for her thoughts +appeared pre-occupied, and it might be more the sentiment than the +author which attracted her. + +Just at this time he was suddenly astounded by the information, that the +uncle of her he loved had announced his intention of marrying her to a +man of noble lineage and great wealth, and Auffredy woke from his dream +of happiness at once. His strains were now all gloom and sadness, and +Elionore heard, with something like astonishment, the melancholy and +despairing lays, to which alone he tuned the harp that all delighted to +hear. Beatrix, too, whose wishes had not been consulted on a subject so +important to herself, appeared quite changed from the tune the tidings +first reached her; and her pale cheek and starting tears proved too +plainly her aversion to the proposed union. Still did she linger near +when Auffredy sung; and when, in a passion of sorrow, he poured forth +the lay here given, Beatrix betrayed an emotion for which he feared to +account. + + LAY. + + "Like that fair tree whose tender boughs + Wave in the sunshine green and bright, + Nor bird nor insect e'er allows + To seek its shelter morn or night, + My heart was young, and fresh, and free, + And near it came nor care nor pain; + But now, like that same tender tree, + When once rude hands its fruit profane, + Ill-omen'd birds and shapes of ill + Troop to its branches, crowding still,-- + And sorrows never known till now + Have cast their shadows on my brow: + A ruin is my heart become + Where brooding sadness finds a home; + See--those bright leaves fall, one by one, + And I--my latest hopes are gone!" + +This was the last time he had ever an opportunity of pouring forth his +feelings in the presence of Beatrix; for she disappeared suddenly from +Court, and, to the amazement of all, it was announced by her uncle, that +her vocation for a religious life had been so decidedly manifested, that +he had yielded to her entreaties, and permitted her to enter a convent. + +This news made a strange impression on the mind of Auffredy,--could it +be possible, after all, that she loved him? yet, he argued, even if it +were so, it was evident that her pride of birth had overcome her +preference, and she had sacrificed the feelings of her heart rather +than descend to be the bride of a merchant, who, though wealthy beyond +all the nobles of the land, was yet no match for one born in her exalted +rank. From that time the troubadour sang no more; and as the Queen found +he had no longer incense to lay on her shrine, her preference for him +waned away, and he found that the permission he asked, to absent himself +from her Court was not withheld. "Poor Auffredy," said Elionore, +somewhat contemptuously, as he departed; "he has seen a wolf and has +lost the use of speech; let him go, we have many a young poet who can +well replace him." + +The admired favourite of a capricious beauty accordingly returned to La +Rochelle, changed in heart and depressed in spirits. "And this, then," +he mused, "is the reward which the world offers to genius, taste, truth, +and feeling! and this is all the value set on qualities which excite +admiration, enthusiasm, rapture!--a brief season suffices to weary the +most zealous and devoted--a few months, and that which was deemed wit +and talent, and wisdom and grace, is looked upon as flat, tame, and +unworthy attention. As long as vanity is pleased, and novelty excites +new ideas, the poet is welcomed and followed; but, let sadness or sorrow +overtake him, of all his admirers not one friend remains! How childish +is the thirst for such trivial fame as that a poet gains! It is like the +pursuit of the gossamer, which the least breath sweeps away. I will +sing no more. I will forget the brilliant scenes that have bewildered me +too long; but to what do I now return? Alas! I have no longer a relish +for that which interested me before--to what end do I seek to gain +wealth? for whom should I hoard treasure? I shall in future take no +interest in my successes; all appears a blank to me, and my existence a +cold, monotonous state of being. These heaps of gold that fill my +coffers are worthless in my eyes; these crowding sails that return to +harbour, bringing me ceaseless wealth, are fraught only with care. Why +was I born rich, since I must live alone and unblest!" + +Still he could not help, in spite of his professions of indifference, +being flattered by the manner in which his return to his native town was +celebrated. The bells of the churches sounded to welcome him, the young +girls of the villages round, came out, in their holiday costumes, to +greet him on his way, they strewed flowers in his path and sang verses +in his praise: the people of La Rochelle even went so far as to offer +prayers at the shrine of the Virgin, to thank Heaven for restoring to +them so honoured and beloved a citizen. Full of gratitude for all this +kindness and affection, Auffredy bestowed liberal presents upon all: he +presented dowers to several of the young maidens who were foremost in +doing him honour: he gave large sums to the town, to be laid out in +charities and in erecting new buildings, and he sent donations to the +churches and convents. His mind was calmed, and his heart touched when +he saw in what esteem he was held. "It is something yet," said he, "to +gain the good-will of one's fellow-men, and to witness their attachment. +Wealth is certainly a blessing, since it enables one to show gratitude." + +About this period great preparations were being made for an expedition +to the Holy Land, which was to be led by young Prince Henry, the heir of +Aquitaine, Normandy, and England; and all the lords and knights of the +three countries vied with each other in splendid equipments. They +borrowed money in all directions, and, amongst those who were capable of +lending, it was not likely that the rich merchant of La Rochelle would +be forgotten. On the contrary, from numerous quarters came applications +for assistance; even Queen Elionore condescended to request that he +would contribute to the splendour of those who should accompany her son, +and the generous and ever ready hand of Auffredy was employed from +morning till night, in lending and giving to those whose means did not +keep pace with their desires. Still, therefore, did he repeat to himself +that wealth had its advantages, as he cheerfully dispensed his benefits +on all sides. At length he was fairly obliged to desist, for his +liberality had brought him to the end of his stores, and he could not +but smile, as he remarked to a friend that, if he did not expect in a +few weeks the return of all his vessels which were trading in the East, +and regularly brought back increased wealth at every voyage, he should +be a poor man. "I have nothing left now," said he, "but my plate and +jewels, and the furniture of my house; and, should my fleet delay, I +will sell all rather than a single knight should be kept from joining +the glorious expedition." + +As if he had foreseen the event, it so happened: although there were no +storms to prevent it, the return of the expected vessels was indeed +delayed, and, fresh and pressing applications pouring in upon him, +Auffredy found himself actually under the necessity of disposing of his +personal possessions, in order to advance the ready-money required. + +He was now in a novel position, without money altogether, and he had +sold all he possessed of land and houses. "It matters not," said he to +the friend at whose house he was staying, at his earnest and +affectionate entreaty; "in a day or two I shall have more than I ever +yet could call my own; for my last advices, brought by a pilgrim from +the country of Manchou Khan, tell me, that all my ventures have been +successful, and that this time my faithful agent, Herbert de Burgh, has +excelled himself in ability." + +"And even should it not be so," said his friend, "think you that the +grateful town of La Rochelle would not be proud to support for years, +nay, for ever, if need were, the benefactor to whom every citizen is +more or less indebted?" + +"I doubt it not," returned the merchant, "and it would be even a +gratification to me to be reduced to poverty, which such generous +friends would relieve." + +But a great and most unexpected change was about to take place in the +fortunes of Auffredy: a change which neither he nor his friends had ever +contemplated, and which put quite a different face upon everything. The +fleet from the East did not arrive. Day after day, week after week, +month after month, the first, the second, year had passed, and the chain +at the harbour of La Rochelle was not loosened to give passage to his +vessels. Hope had slowly faded, expectation declined, and, at length, +expired,--and the powerful, wealthy, and beloved Auffredy was a beggar. + +Where was he at the expiration of the second year? What friend's mansion +did he still honour with his presence, and which of his admirers was +made happy by seeing him partake of his hospitality? Who, of all those +he had rescued from poverty, danger, and affliction, was so blest as to +show how strong the tide of gratitude swelled in their hearts? Auffredy +was heard of no more! His native town had forgotten his name: to speak +of him was interdicted; he was a reproach to La Rochelle, a disgrace to +the city whom his misfortune left without a merchant able to assist +monarchs and fit out armies. Every individual felt injured, every one +resented his affront. Not a door but was closed against the bankrupt +spendthrift--the deceiver who spoke of wealth which was but a vision, +who encouraged hopes which had no foundation. Vessel after vessel +arrived from different quarters, but none had met with Herbert de Burgh +or his charge; it was doubtful if he had ever even sailed: it was +possible, nay probable, indeed it soon was received as a certainty, that +the fleet which was talked of had no existence but in the crazed +imagination of a profuse dreamer, who fancied argosies and made the +world believe he possessed them. It was enough that the drama was ended, +and no one cared now, after so long a time, to ask what was become of +the principal actor. + +One bright summer morning, when the sun shone with dazzling lustre on +the dancing waves outside the harbour of La Rochelle, and, inside, the +water was as calm as glass, a little fishing-boat came gliding along, +her red sail gleaming in the light. She was guided by a single sailor--a +young man whose remarkably handsome face and figure was little set off +by his rough habiliments, which were of the meanest kind; indeed, his +boat and all belonging to it indicated little wealth, and seemed to +have seen, like himself, much service; but there was a cheerful sparkle +in his speaking eye which spoke of content and happiness; and, as he +leaped on shore and prepared to unload his little cargo of fish, his +animated manner and quick and ready movements showed that, if he were +poor, he gained enough by his industry to support himself, and cared for +nothing but the present moment, without concerning himself for the +future. He had arrived but a few minutes when a slight woman, wrapped in +a long black cloak, with the peaked hood tightly drawn over her head and +quite concealing her face, emerged from a neighbouring street, and, +bounding forward, stood by the side of the young man, who, with a joyful +exclamation, caught her in his arms, and embraced her tenderly. Together +they collected the fish, which filled his boat, into baskets, and placed +them on the edge of the path where frequenters of the markets must pass, +and before long their little stock was sold, and they were in possession +of a small sum of money, which the young fisherman put into his purse +with an air of satisfaction, as, fastening his boat to the shore, and +gathering up his baskets, he gave his arm to the girl, who apparently +was his wife, and they left the quay. Just as they were entering the +small narrow Rue de la Vache, they observed, standing under an archway, +a man, of ragged and miserable appearance, who, approaching, offered to +be the bearer of their baskets to their home; he spoke in a low, hollow +voice, and said, "Employ me: it will be a charity; I have not tasted +bread these two days." Although the young couple, linked arm in arm, +close together, and looking in each other's eyes, were talking in gay, +cheerful accents, and, apparently, exclusively occupied with each other, +yet there was something so sad, so desolate, in the tone of the poor +man's voice who addressed them, that they both stopped and turned +towards him. "Good friend," said the young man, "you seem in great +straits; the blessed Virgin knows I am little able to help you; but take +the baskets my wife is carrying, though you look but ill able to bear +them. We live hard by, and we have a morsel of bread to give you, if you +will." The man made no reply, but took the burthen from the young woman +and followed the merry pair, who resumed their talk and their cheerful +laugh as they went on. "I need not go out again for at least three +days," said the husband, "since this venture has been so lucky; you see +how well we can live, and how happy one can be, after all, on nothing." +"Yes," answered the wife; "but, at least, while the weather is so fine, +I see no reason why I should be left at home. I could be so useful in +the boat, and it would make me so happy. I know when it blows hard, it +is useless to ask you, but now"--"Well, you shall go, dearest, next +time, if this lasts," was the answer; "what a good sailor you will +make, as well as a housekeeper!" They both laughed, and at this moment +they reached the door of a very humble dwelling, with only just +furniture enough to prevent its being called empty; but they stepped +into it, and, the porter placing the baskets on the floor, they sat down +and invited him to do the same, while they shared with him a cake and +some water, which was already placed on a table. + +The poor man, after eating a morsel, appeared suddenly faint, and, +uttering a deep sigh, fell on the ground motionless: they raised him up, +and, with the utmost kindness, endeavoured to restore him: his worn and +haggard countenance told of long and hard suffering; his white hair, +that hung in matted locks on his shoulders, seemed blanched by misery, +not age; for he appeared a young man, and his emaciated hands were white +and more delicate than is usual in his station. After some time he +recovered a little, and, thanking them for their help, attempted to rise +and leave the house; but both, moved with compassion, insisted on his +lying down on their only bed and taking some repose. "You are ill," said +the husband, "and have been too long without food--rest quiet--we will +get you some more suitable nourishment, and when you are better, we will +hear of your leaving us." + +From that day the sick man remained a guest with these poor people, +till, his illness increasing, he begged they would procure him +admittance into some hospital, if possible, that he might cease to be a +burthen on their benevolence: finding their means running very short, +owing to the uncertain success of the fisherman's trade, they consented +to attempt getting him admitted to the hospital established by the monks +of St. Julien, who kindly received the unfortunate man: but, not content +with doing this, it was agreed between the young couple that, during the +husband's absence, the wife should be his nurse, and attend to him while +in the asylum which was afforded him. For several weeks he lay, +apparently, at the point of death; but after that time began to recover, +and, though weak and emaciated, appeared to have escaped danger. As soon +as he was sufficiently recovered to attempt it, he resumed the +occupation of porter on the quay, which his sickness had interrupted, +and, as he grew daily in strength and health, he was able to gain a +little, which he insisted on adding to the small stock of the charitable +persons who had saved his life by their kindness. Sometimes he +accompanied the husband on his expeditions, and was serviceable to him +in his perilous ventures, for his nautical knowledge seemed great, and +his skill and readiness made themselves apparent. Though full of +gratitude in all his actions, he never expressed in words the feelings +their conduct naturally inspired: he was silent and thoughtful, and +seemed labouring under some overwhelming grief which no consolations +could soften: he never spoke of any person in the town, nor seemed to +know anything belonging to it, by which they judged he was a stranger; +but, as he evidently did not desire to be communicative, they never +urged him with questions, nor required to be informed of his former +life. It sufficed to them that he was unfortunate, and that they had +ameliorated his condition, and all three lived together, happy and +content, without knowing any circumstances of each other's previous +condition. + +Several months passed in this manner, winters and summers fled away, and +the returning seasons found them still poor, still labouring, and still +content. The porter improved, not only in strength, but in spirits; for +he felt that he was able to be of service to those who had befriended +him, and the gloom which chained his tongue and clouded his brow, wore, +in a great degree, away. They had no friends in the town, nor sought for +acquaintances; the young woman always concealed her face when she went +out, which she never did, but to meet her husband, or to buy necessaries +for their simple household. His boat had been replaced by one larger and +more commodious, and his gains were greater; by degrees their +circumstances improved, and, as they sat by their fireside, they were +accustomed to say that they were rich enough, and desired nothing more. + +Although the fisherman and his now constant companion had been out in +all weathers, they had never yet encountered any dangerous storms, and +the wife was now quite tranquil, from the constant habit of seeing them +return safely, and complaining little. One day, in early spring, they +had set out with a clear sky and fair wind, and had had one of the most +fortunate voyages of any they had yet made on the Breton coast, when, +just as they were within sight of the Point de Ray, which raises its +bare and jagged head three hundred feet above the noisy waves which +brawl at its base, an ominous cloud suddenly overspread the heavens, and +the symptoms of a coming storm were but too apparent. With silent awe +the solitary mariners beheld, sailing heavily along the darkening sky, +two birds, of sable plumage, whose flight seemed directed towards the +fatal Baie des Trepasses, so often the grave of the adventurous seaman. +"Alas!" said the young husband, as he marked their flight, "those birds +bode no good: they are the souls of King Grallon and his daughter, who +appear always before a storm; if we escape the perils of the Isle de +Sein, we shall be indeed fortunate." + +"Is this coast, then, indeed, so dangerous?" asked the porter. + +"It is the abode of spirits," answered the young man; "and was the +cradle of Merdynn the Bard; the city where he lived, is engulphed below +those black rocks yonder, whose spires, like those of churches, are +only visible when destruction threatens those who are found on the +coast. We have, hitherto, been fortunate in all our undertakings; but +there must come an evil day, which generally arrives when one is least +prepared." + +"It is too true," said his companion; "for me, I thought all my +misfortunes were past, and death alone could be the ill left to reach +me. I have, of late, felt it _would_ be an ill since I have lived again +in you and yours--before that time, I prayed for it in vain." + +A furious gust of wind at this instant swept past them, their frail +vessel shook in every timber, and, mounting on a sweeping wave that came +howling along, was sent forward with frightful impetuosity to a great +distance; when, as if the angry billow disdained its weight, it was +precipitated into a gulf of foam which dashed above the sunken rocks +whose points received it. "Oh, Beatrix!" exclaimed the young fisherman; +"it is all over; we shall meet no more; our fate has overtaken us at +last! My friend," he added, grasping the arm of his companion; "if you +survive, promise to protect her. We have suffered much, and borne our +fortune as we could. I have brought this wretchedness upon her by my +love; but neither she nor I have ever repented the lot we chose. She +will tell you our story, and you will continue to comfort and support +her when I am no more." + +"Be not cast down," answered his friend; as, buffeted by the storm, they +clung together to the creaking mast; "I know your story already, and +have known it from the first. You are the troubadour, Anselm, once the +ornament of the Court of Elionore, and Beatrix de Montlucon is your +devoted wife. She was said to have died in the convent of St. Blaise, +and you to have perished in the Holy Land." + +The shrieking of the wind, and the roaring of the awakened thunder, +drowned the reply of the young man: a crash, a shock, and their boat was +split into several parts; they each clung to a piece of wreck, and used +every effort to overcome the fury of the elements. Anselm's hold, +however, was suddenly loosened by the falling of the mast upon his arm, +and his friend saw him no more for several instants; he re-appeared, +however, and a returning wave dashed him on a rock, which the porter +reaching by a spring, he caught him by the hand and dragged him to the +summit. There they stood clasping each other, and expecting every moment +to be washed off by the boiling surge. For some time they, nevertheless, +kept their stand, and, though not a vestige of their boat was to be +seen, they still lived and still hoped, for their hopes rose with the +danger, and, as they offered up their fervent prayers to the Mother of +mercy, they felt not altogether abandoned. All night were they in this +perilous position, hearing the waters around them howling, and climbing +to reach the spot where, almost by miracle, they were placed. Day broke, +and with morning came a brightened prospect; by degrees the sea sank, +the winds subsided, and all trace of the storm was gone. But their +situation seemed still little better than before; must they not perish +on this barren rock, without food or shelter, if not washed off by the +next tide, which might bring back the sleeping vengeance of the enraged +elements? While they hung exhausted on the perilous edge of the peak, +something in the distance caught their view. It grew more distinct; it +came nearer; and they were aware that a sail was passing: not one, +however, but many; like the glittering of the wings of a flight of +sea-birds, sail after sail hove in sight, and a gallant fleet came full +in view almost as soon as they had descried the first. + +Loud and long were their cries; hope gave them fresh force, and their +voices were sent over the now quiet waves, echoing till they reached the +ears of those in the foremost vessel. + +The mariners, directed by the continued sound of distress, were able to +steer towards them; and having at length discovered in the specks at a +distance, amidst the waves, the unfortunate friends, a boat was sent +through the sea to the rock, and at once received the rescued pair. They +were taken on board and tended carefully; and, the wind being fair, the +vessels continued their course, which they declared was to La Rochelle, +much to the delight of those they had delivered from death. + +The port so much desired was almost reached; and the high towers of the +Chateau de Vauclair, of the cathedral, and the Grosse Tour de la Chaine, +shone boldly forth against the clear blue sky. The captain walked the +deck, and gazed long and anxiously forth; every now and then tears +started into his eyes, which he brushed away; at length his feelings +appeared to overcome him, and, burying his face in his hands, he sobbed +aloud. The two grateful friends whom he had saved were standing by; he +raised his head and addressed them; "You who are of La Rochelle," said +he, "can you not, perchance, tell me if one whom I left ten years ago in +that town still lives and is well? Fears and forebodings oppress me as I +approach the shore, for it is long since I have heard tidings of him, +and much does it import me to know that he exists, and that my enforced +absence has not caused him misfortune. Is the great merchant, Alexander +Auffredy, still, as he once was, the ornament and benefactor of his +native town?" + +"Alas!" replied the youngest of the shipwrecked men, "you ask after one +long since forgotten in La Rochelle. It is now ten years since he was a +ruined man, and, having nothing more to give to his ungrateful +fellow-citizens, was abandoned to his fate, and has been no more heard +of." + +"Unhappy destiny!" cried the captain, turning pale and clasping his +hands; "but he was rich, and his stores were immense; not twice ten +years' absence of his fleets could have caused him to become bankrupt." + +"But he gave all he had to the knights bound for the Holy Wars; his +agent, Herbert de Burgh, was either faithless, or the fleets entrusted +to him were lost; he never returned from his last voyage to the East, +and the unfortunate merchant, reduced to penury and driven to despair, +is said to have destroyed himself." As Anselm uttered these words the +captain became convulsed with agony; his face was livid, his eyes +rolled, his teeth were clenched. "Wretch that I am!" cried he; "who am +the cause of all! I wrote to my dear master and told him of my intention +to attempt a new discovery in a new world filled with riches unheard of +before; but I waited not his permission; I set out without his leave, +and, not content with what I had already gained for him, I resolved to +seek more wealth; to what end have I gained it--to what end have I +returned with riches enough to purchase Europe; all of which these +vessels bear, if he, the generous, trusting, kind, indulgent, and +deceived owner is no more? Where shall I hide my head?--where lose my +shame?--and how survive his loss!" + +They entered the harbour of La Rochelle; and as the gallant train of +ships swept proudly along, the whole population of the town came forth +until they lined the shores in every direction. It was soon known, by +the ensigns they bore, that they were the long-lost vessels of Auffredy; +and many a conscious cheek turned pale, and many an eye glared with +amazement as the gorgeous galleys covered the waters. + +But the captain was lying prone on the deck; his face was haggard, his +look wild, and he tore his hair in distraction. "My master, my poor +master!" cried he; "I have murdered thee by my mercenary wickedness; oh, +holy Virgin! forgive me, for I am a sinner!" "Look up, Herbert de +Burgh," said a voice beside him; "the Mother of mercy is never appealed +to in vain; she can restore the dead to life; she can, though late, +re-illume joy in the heart; she can revive long-abandoned hope. Look up +and say if in this wretched, wasted, meagre form you can recognise one +whom you loved; one who loved and trusted you with reason; who never +doubted your integrity, and who mourned you lost more than all his +wealth, which you restore!" + +Herbert de Burgh looked up and beheld, leaning over him, the form of +Alexander Auffredy. + +A few words sufficed of explanation: joy took the place of despair, +exultation of tears, and the minstrel, Anselm, heard, with feelings of +emotion difficult to describe, that the wretched man whom he had saved +from starvation was the rich merchant of La Rochelle. + +Loud and joyous were the notes of triumph which sounded from every +vessel as the news became known; the clarions and trumpets rent the air; +wild exclamation of happiness and congratulation rose above the pealing +music which ushered in the fleet to its haven; and strange was the +revulsion of feeling on shore when the despised porter stepped from his +boat, attended by Herbert de Burgh, who proclaimed him as his master. + +Those who had shunned and injured the now wealthy merchant were +astounded; and who were there, amongst the whole population, who had +befriended him, or who deserved aught but contempt and hatred at his +hands? There was _but one_, and she is clasped in her husband's arms, +and sees, in the man she had protected, her lover, whose songs she had +so often sung to her husband! + +Auffredy kept their secret, and to none but himself was it ever known +that the rich man who afterwards became governor of La Rochelle, and his +beautiful wife, supposed to be a native of some foreign land, were the +troubadour, Anselm, and Beatrix of Montlucon. + +All the revenge Auffredy took upon his townsmen was to reject their +offers of friendship, to refuse to take his place amongst them, and to +avoid appearing in their sight. The bulk of his great wealth was +dedicated to the foundation of a hospital for naval and military +patients, and the rest of his days he passed in attendance on the sick. + +This is the story of Auffredy, the great merchant, the Jacques Coeur of +the thirteenth century; and this is the history of the magnificent +Hospital of La Rochelle, which he founded, and which is to be seen at +the present hour, the most conspicuous object in the town. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + TOWERS--RELIGION--MARIA BELANDELLE--STORM--PROTESTANT + RETREAT--SOLEMN DINNERS--"HALF-AND-HALF"--GO TO SLEEP!--THE + BREWERY--GAS ESTABLISHMENT--CHATEAU OF LA FONT--THE MYSTERY + EXPLAINED--TRIUMPH OF SCENERY OVER APPETITE--SLAVE TRADE--CHARLES + LE BIEN SERVI--LIBERALITY OF LOUIS PHILIPPE--GUITON--HOUSE OP LE + MAIRE GUITON--THE FLEETS--THE FIGHT--THE MAYOR AND THE GOVERNOR. + + +IT appears that, from the position of the town of La Rochelle, it was +not difficult for the vessels of an enemy to reach its walls, and even +to penetrate its harbour; the latter was formed outside the town, and +the access to it was by numerous gates. The entrance, nevertheless, was +defended by two towers, which still exist, if not in all their original +strength, yet exhibiting an aspect of defiance, and recalling +recollections of times long past, such as few towns in France can now +do. These towers, which stand, like Sir Bevis and Sir Ascapart, bold and +menacing, and forbidding the entrance to any but a friend, are called La +Tour de la Chaine and La Tour de St. Nicolas. + +The first is a rugged, round tower of great height and bulk, apparently +of Roman construction; it was formerly called La Petite Tour de la +Chaine, because it assisted its opposite sister, La Grosse Tour, to +sustain the enormous chain which still, on occasion, closes the mouth of +the harbour. The latter is now called St. Nicolas, and presents a most +extraordinary and _old world_ appearance: higher than the first, its +form is so irregular, that it would be difficult to decide what shape it +could be called: round on one side, square on another, with little +round, square, and octagon turrets rising out of it, the whole mass has +the strangest effect imaginable. Within it is just as mysterious, having +chambers built up and down, and communicating with each other in the +most unexpected manner, so that the whole interior is a perfect +labyrinth of galleries, cells, hiding-places, and rooms on different +stages. This is just the sort of tower which seemed fitted for that +inscrutable tyrant, Louis XI.; who wrote upon one of the windows, with a +diamond, these words: "_O la grande Folie_!" alluding, it was believed, +to what he considered his weakness, in having abandoned Guienne to his +brother. + +The fortifications of La Rochelle were very extensive formerly, the +gates numerous. La Porte Malvaut or Mauleon, La Porte Rambaud, du Petit +Comte, de St. Nicolas, de Verite, des Canards, de Mauclair, de la +Vieille Poterie, de la Grande Rue du Port, de la Petit Rue du Port, de +Perot and du Pont-Vert, tell their age by their antique names. There +are but few vestiges of any of these gates, except that of Cougnes, of +the ancient Porte Neuve, and la Porte Maubec: but, besides all these, +there are seven still existing. To complete the defences, there were +formerly, _without_ the gates, two forts of great strength, one called +St. Louis and Des Deux Moulins, the ruins of which still exist near the +fine pyramidal Tour de la Lanterne, the most conspicuous of all, now +used as a prison, which raises its head far above every tower and spire +of La Rochelle, and which must show its _pharos_ at a great distance at +sea. The architecture of this tower is remarkable, and its ornaments +very beautiful: the spire that sustains its lantern is like that of a +church adorned with graceful foliage to the top: it dates from 1445, and +has been repaired at different periods. Medals were struck at the time +of the siege, in 1628, which represent this tower, having the following +motto round:--_Lucerna impiorum extinguetur_ (the light of the impious +shall be extinguished). It was at this time that Cardinal Richelieu +caused the great _digue_, as it is called, to be made to the south-west +of the town, with enormous labour and expense, in order to prevent +supplies reaching the Rochellois who held out against him. At low water +this _digue_ is visible, and remains a memorial of the cruelty and +harshness of the tyrant priest who ruled France. + +One of the numerous towers which formerly protected the town is called +the Demi-bastion _des Dames_, so named from its having been defended by +the ladies of La Rochelle, whose heroic devotion at the time of the +siege by the duke of Anjou, in 1573, has rendered them famous in +history. They were not less active half a century later, when, for +thirteen months, La Rochelle withstood the united forces of Catholic +France bent on its destruction. The scenes which took place at these +periods have made this interesting town classic ground: there is not a +wall, a tower, or a street, which has not some tale of heroism attached +to it, and some noble trait may be recounted as having occurred in every +quarter.[8] + +[Footnote 8: In the Romance of the Queen Mother, I have given a detailed +account, from the most correct chroniclers, of the siege of La Rochelle, +and its defence, in 1573.] + +There are no interesting churches in La Rochelle, the wars of religion +having destroyed all the antique buildings of worship, both Catholic and +Protestant. Nothing now remains of the extensive possessions of the +Templars, or the Knights of Malta, who both had _commanderies_ here. + +The reformed religion, of which La Rochelle afterwards became the +stronghold, is said to have been first introduced by a young girl of +humble station, Maria Belandelle, into this part of the country. Strong +in her conviction, and anxious to spread the truth, this person, more +zealous than prudent, ventured to come forward, in 1534, as antagonist +to, and disputant against, a Franciscan friar. However good her +arguments might be, the result of the controversy had of course been +previously decided on by the strongest party. She was convicted of +heresy and impiety, and condemned to the stake; which _righteous_ +judgment was carried into effect, and poor Marie was publicly burnt in +the great square, to the refreshment and edification of her _soi-disant_ +fellow-Christians! + +Calvinism, however, gained ground in spite of this example of its +dangers, and many were the secret meetings held in concealed places; +sometimes under-ground, like the early Christians; till in 1558 a +minister, previously a priest of the diocese of Agen, named David, +preached in the church of St. Barthelemi (ominous name!) the new +doctrines, in the presence of the King and Queen of Navarre, parents of +Henry IV. A few years later, under these powerful auspices, other +ministers ventured to emerge from their hiding-places, and proclaim the +"glad tidings" to their brethren. With more or less danger and +indulgence, the Protestants pursued their reform for some time--now +persecuted, now permitted--till, by the edict of pacification of 1570, +it was agreed that persons of both religions should in future _live +together in good intelligence_. The immortal horrors of St. Bartholomew, +however, changed the face of things, and a long straggle ensued; during +which, at different times, the Rochellois showed themselves undaunted +defenders of the faith. Always opposed and persecuted, the Protestants +were never publicly allowed, by the State, to follow the exercise of +their religion, till the great revolution swept away all barriers; and, +from that time alone, those who professed that faith could do so openly. +Several houses are shown in the town where the Calvinists were +accustomed to meet secretly, and to one of them an accident introduced +us. + +Every morning before breakfast we were accustomed to go down to the +baths of the beautiful _Mail_, and as the walk through the town, under +the interminable arcades, was both hot and tedious, we always chose a +longer, but very agreeable, way, by the boulevards of the ancient +ramparts; which are extremely pleasant, varied, and delightful, offering +here and there fine views of the country beneath, and affording thick +shade under their magnificent trees; some of the best houses open at the +back on these ramparts, from whence their fine gardens, full of flowers +and vine-trellices, can be occasionally seen. We had been a week at La +Rochelle; every morning enjoying our walk, for the weather was +perfection, a warm, bright sun and fresh sea-breeze inspiriting us to +take so very long a promenade twice a day, in order that we might lose +nothing of the splendour of the sea. One day the sun deceived us; we set +out as usual; but had not got half to the end of the ramparts, when a +series of dark clouds came creeping over the blue sky; a hollow wind +began to sigh amongst the leaves, and the light became fitful and lurid, +till, on a sudden, a loud crack in the sky was heard, and in an instant +down rushed the rain in a perfect deluge. We had reached the most +exposed part of the boulevard; all the trees here were young; indeed, as +we observed the quick flashes of lightning, we were scarcely sorry to be +at a distance from the larger ones. We stood close to the old wall, and +covering ourselves with our parasols as well as we could, paused, hoping +the fury of the storm would soon subside. We were wet through instantly; +for it seemed as if the Spirits of the shower took a pleasure in +drenching us without mercy; such a roaring, and creaking, and flashing +echoed around us, that it was impossible not to fancy they were enjoying +our distress. Finding that there was no chance of the storm abating, we +determined to continue our way, and, by getting into the streets, escape +the danger of the lightning; accordingly, at the first opening, which +was near the Ecluse de la Verdiere, we hurried down; but here the +storm-fiend became so furious, the wind so terrific, and the rain so +persevering, that, seeing an open door, we darted into it, and in an +instant found ourselves under shelter. When we could breathe we looked +round, and could not help laughing to see where we had been so lucky as +to place ourselves. It was a huge dark cavern, where coals and other +fuel were heaped in all directions; long aisles seemed to diverge from +it with low arches leading further into the building, and apparently +descending. A small, pointed window at the back just gave light enough +to show its retreats, and we became convinced that this was one of the +very places where of old our Protestant brethren were accustomed to meet +to exercise their religion. It answered precisely to a description I had +read of one of them, situate beneath the ramparts, and it was a great +comfort in our emergency to think that we had thus discovered a secret +haunt which must otherwise have escaped us. + +The owner of the shed, or a workman, soon arrived, and seemed somewhat +amused, as well as astonished, to see how we had taken possession of his +grot; we had not Imogen's excuse-- + + "Before I entered here I called;" + +but he gave us welcome, nevertheless, till the storm disappearing, as +suddenly as it had arrived, we were able to pick our way home to Les +Trois Chandeliers. + +One of the least agreeable things which we encountered in our inn, was +the manner in which our dinners were conducted; we were not allowed the +privilege, which we generally claimed, of dining in our own apartments; +but were given to understand that at the _table d'Hote_ we should meet +with the best attendance and entertainment. Accordingly, we became +guests in the fine _salon_ I have before described, where a party were +assembled in solemn silence, as if a serious meeting, instead of one +somewhat lively, was on the _tapis_. The cross-looking, silent damsel of +the huge square cap slowly placed the dishes on the table, and every one +sat down; but not a single individual, male or female, attempted to help +his neighbour to anything; not a word was spoken, except in whispers; +and very soon she of the square cap began to remove several of the +untouched viands; as the soup, for which we had ventured to ask, was +particularly bad, we did not interfere to prevent this proceeding. The +next course appeared; but still, except a solitary individual, who made +a desperate move, and cut up a fowl which he handed round, no one put +out a finger; as we were quite at the lower end of the table, and saw +with consternation that our appetites, sharpened with the fine air of +the sea, were not likely to be satisfied, and not relishing this +Governor Sancho's fare, we beckoned to a mute female, who had entered +with the second course, and stood by as if a spectator of the solemnity, +and remonstrated on the absurdity, entreating to have something brought +us; she answered gravely, that _in our turn_ we should be attended to; +and in the end we were fortunate enough to procure a little cream, of +which we took possession; and then, wearied out with the tedium of the +proceeding, rose and made a retreat, leaving the rest of the taciturn +company to wait for and contemplate their dessert. It was not so much +the supineness of the attendants as the apathy of the guests that amazed +us; having generally observed in France, that _mauvaise honte_ by no +means stood in the way of hungry persons, and that a French appetite is +with difficulty appeased, even after partaking of every dish on the +table: a fact of which we had lately been reminded at Poitiers, where a +set of men, who ate in a most prodigious manner, after the last +condiment had disappeared exclaimed, one to the other, "_Eh, mon Dieu! +on ne fait que commencer, il me semble._" + +Our desertion being reported to the lady of the Three Candlesticks, she +came to apologise; fearing that her enforced absence had caused +something to go wrong at the dinner. She told us that she was obliged to +attend to the domestic arrangements of her hotel, and to superintend +fifteen workmen who were busied in some necessary duties; but, _as she +always saw to everything herself_, we should have no cause to complain +another day. We had meditated finding out another place to dine at, but +this disarmed us; and, day after day, we were obliged to submit to +something very similar, being forced to make a perfect struggle for our +dinner, and submit to the studiedly tedious movements of the Breton +girl, whose frowns and scowls accompanied every action. We found, one +day, a champion in an old gentleman, who, a stranger and traveller, like +ourselves, endeavoured to create a reform; but was only partially +successful. This person had been to England, and preserved pleased +recollections of London "_half-and-half_" which he seemed to consider +little short of nectar, and was astonished at my ignorance when, +appealed to, I was obliged to plead guilty of not being acquainted with +its virtues. He was the first Frenchman I ever heard refute the +calumnies against our climate; for, though he agreed that we had fogs in +London occasionally somewhat denser than in Paris, he had not fallen +into the error,--which it is thought heresy to dispute,--that, at +Brighton, Richmond, or Windsor, the blue sky is never seen. A very +supercilious man who sat near him, annoyed at his praises of England, +and his raptures at the Tunnel,--that great object of foreign +admiration,--endeavoured to silence him by pronouncing that London had +no monuments, and was not half as big as Paris; for, though he lived in +Poitou, he had seen the capital. The comic look which our champion gave +us when this oracle was pronounced was irresistible. + +We had inquired for the fountain and castle of La Font, famous in the +annals of the Liege; and our hostess, finding that we were bent on +seeing all the sights that La Rochelle could furnish, when she met us +one morning at her door, where we had been greeted by her husband, who +officiated as cook in the dark retreat which we had to cross on our +exit, with the salutation of "_Go to sleep_;"--which English phrase he +considered as expressive as any other,--proposed to show us the way to +the village of La Font, and its chateau--a short walk from La Rochelle. +We accepted her offer; and, accompanied by her little girl--a forward, +clever child of about seven years old, and two friends,--in one of whom +we recognised one of the solemn officials of the dinner-table, who, it +seems, was playing only an amateur part on that occasion,--we set out. +The ideas of all French people, in every part of France, it appears to +me, are the same respecting sights and views: to take a walk means, with +them, to put on your best gown and cap, take your umbrella, and proceed, +at a sauntering pace, talking all the way, down some hot, dusty road, +where the _monde_ is expected to be met with. The end of the journey is +usually at some shabby cottage, or _cabaret_, where seats are set out in +the sun, and refreshments are to be had. I think lanes and meadow-paths +do not exist in France; or, if they do, they are carefully avoided by +all but shepherds and shepherdesses, who are obliged to take them +occasionally; but who much prefer, as do their charges, the sheep and +cows, the high road, all dust and bustle. + +The first place we stopped at, we were assured, was very interesting: +the permission to see it had been graciously granted to our hostess, for +us, by the proprietor, who usually dined at the _table d'hote_,--one of +our silent _companions_, no doubt;--and we could, consequently, do no +less than appear grateful for the favour. Our patience was, however, put +to the test when what we hoped, by its ruinous appearance, would turn +out an antique church or tower was announced to be an infant _brewery_, +in a very early stage of its existence. We stood by while our companions +talked to a very pretty, indolent-looking woman, surrounded by +black-eyed children, whose ages and habits were dilated on, and all of +whom were scattered about the premises--sitting or lying on tubs and +heaps of wood; while the husband and father sauntered through something +like work, which was to bring the erection, in the course of time, to a +close. He seemed glad of an opportunity of leaving off what he was +supposed to be doing, to show us the garden of the establishment,--a +wilderness full of mignionette, and cabbages, and vines, and pumpkins. + +As an excuse for the failure of this sight, we were told that the +principal works could not be shown, which, had we seen, would have +amazed us not a little; but, to make up for the disappointment, we +should be introduced to another _fabrique_, which should well repay us. +When near the Porte Dauphine, we found this treat was no other than a +gas establishment; and, terrified at the odour which spread from it far +and wide, which, added to the heat of a very sunny day, warned us to +forego the temptation of becoming acquainted with the method of meting +out gas to the town of La Rochelle, we protested against being forced to +enter; contenting ourselves with admiring the tall pillar, which, being +new, is an object of great exultation to the inhabitants. The air, in +this part, was quite poisoned with the effluvia from the gas; and we +were not surprised to hear that the soldiers, in the barracks close +beneath, suffered continually from sickness since the period when the +gas-works had been established. Unpleasant smells, however, seldom seem +to distress French organs; and our disgust only amused our companions, +who seemed now, for the first time, to perceive that it was not as +agreeable as the mignionette beds we had left. + +We were not sorry to reach the beautiful promenade of the Champ de Mars +and the Fontaine de la Marechale; a fine walk planted with numerous +trees, with alleys diverging towards the village of La Font. Gardens, +with high walls, extend for half a league in this direction; for here +all the rich merchants of the town have their country-houses, and here +they usually spend the summer months. Being enclosed, however, the +perfume of the flowers alone, and an occasional opening, betray their +existence; and the walk is hot and dusty, without any view of sea, or +landscape, to repay the toil. At length we found ourselves at the end of +the longest village I ever was in; all composed of good square houses, +the backs only of which were visible. + +We turned aside, along an avenue planted with young trees, to the +chateau of La Font; but what was our vexation to find at its extremity a +range of little huts, and a black, soapy pool, at which numbers of +washerwomen were busy at their ceaseless occupation. "_Voila_!" +exclaimed our hostess, in exultation, and with an air which said, You +must be gratified now; "_Voila_! this is the famous fountain _where all +the linen of La Rochelle is washed_! and there is the chateau where my +washerwoman lives,--a very respectable mother of a family;--and there +are her turkeys and her farm-yard; and there is her market-garden! Oh! +it is a sweet spot!" + +Beyond the group of _blanchisseuses_--to whom she stopped to talk about +her household arrangements,--we saw a ruined tenement flanked with round +towers, very much dilapidated, and preserving but little of their +ancient character, owing to having been pierced with modern windows; +certainly sufficiently ruinous, if that was to be an object of +attraction, but not otherwise worthy of note. Girls and women, in wooden +shoes, were sitting about in a slovenly yard before it, and we were +welcomed as guests by one who got chairs and placed them in sight of the +farm-yard wonders for our accommodation: after which she disappeared +with our hostess to show the washing establishment, which we declined +visiting, in spite of repeated invitations, given with all the +_bonhommie_ in the world, as if there had really been anything to see +but dirty water and soap-suds. We comprehended, afterwards, as we sat +musing in the farm-yard, watching the vagaries of some angry turkeys, +whose combs became perfectly white with passion, as they contended with +their fellows, that the reason of so much pride and admiration on the +part of our hostess and the mistress of the _Chateau_ de La Font was, +that the washing here was carried on _under cover_; whereas, that +operation usually takes place by the side of rivers and brooks, in the +open face of nature, without hot water or tubs. No wonder that our +apathy annoyed the parties, who had so just a reason to "be vaunty" of +so expensive an establishment! + +This, then, is all that remains of the castle of La Font, once a place +so contended for during the numerous sieges, and which the Duke of +Anjou, afterwards Henry III., took possession of, when he ordered his +soldiers to destroy all the fountains which supplied the besieged town +of La Rochelle with water. On this spot, where Protestants and Catholics +fought deadly battles, and disputed every inch of ground, the battle of +a couple of turkeys, and the splashing and thumping of a group of +washerwomen, were all that existed to interest the beholder. + +We walked round the towers and into the field at the back, but scarcely +a bit of old wall repaid our trouble; and finding that the subject of +washing became all engrossing to our hostess, who seemed to have +forgotten that the hotel of the Three Candlesticks and its dinner-hour +had existence, we rose and left the party, directing our way back to the +town. + +We had managed to make our escape quietly, but our defection once +perceived, consternation ensued, and the departure of La Noue from the +Protestant camp could scarcely have created more sensation. We were +pursued, and accompanied home to the hotel, with repeated apologies for +having been allowed to remain alone until we became _ennuyees_; and so +persecuted were we with politeness, that we were not sorry to take +refuge in the solemn _salle-a-manger_, where, though nearly two hours +past dinner-time, we found no preparations yet on foot for our relief. +It was impossible, considering the well-meant intention of our hostess, +to be angry at anything; but, without exception, the whole arrangement +at this most unique of all inns, was the least comfortable that any +unfortunate traveller ever had to put up with. Every day we meditated +leaving, and every day her good-humour, and a bath and walk at the +delicious sea-side, made us abandon our resolve, and-- + + "Tempered us to bear; + It was but for a day." + +Indeed, it was impossible to be otherwise than content, to find oneself +seated in one of the pretty alcoves of the Bath gardens, with a +magnificent expanse of sparkling sea before the eye, a gentle murmur of +waters at the feet, a hundred gleaming sails, white and red, gliding +along the surface of the glittering wave, the towers of the distant town +shining out from the mass of buildings which surround them, the full +harbour, the green alleys, the superb trees, the pretty shrubs, the +distant island shores, everything, in fact, smiling and gay and +beautiful around. To forget Les Trois Chandeliers, and to grudge the +time necessary for finding a new domicile, was a natural consequence; +and the want of _materiel_ to satisfy the sea-side appetite--sure to be +gained after a whole day's sojourn on the beach--became an after +consideration, our domestic privations were therefore constantly +neglected, bewailed, and forgotten again next day while eating grapes +and bread in the beloved alcove. + +There appears to be much ease in the circumstances of the inhabitants of +La Rochelle: we understood that there were not many persons of very +large fortune, but few positively poor. The commerce is inferior now to +what it has been; as, for instance, in the _glorious_ time of the _slave +trade_; but there appears still to be a good deal of bustle on the +quays: however, to an English eye, all French trade seems dull when +compared to the movement in our own ports. There is always building +going on here, as in every other town in France, where one might imagine +everything had been at a stand-still for a century, and had suddenly +been endowed with new life and activity. The cities of France seem--like +the enchanted domains of the marble prince of the Arabian Nights--to +have been doomed to a long inaction, and restored to existence by an +invisible power. The magic which changed the blue and red fishes into +men, was less potent than the wise rule of the present sovereign of the +kingdom, under whom his country flourishes; not a town or village being +forgotten in his endeavours to rescue them from the long night of +wretchedness into which war and misrule had cast them. Everywhere his +donations and encouragement cause ruins and filth to disappear, and +splendour and neatness to take their place: yet, in spite of all this, +and obvious as the benefit is to a traveller who hears of his +benefactions wherever he passes, few of the subjects of this +considerate and liberal monarch seem sufficiently grateful for his +patriotic endeavours to exalt their position. "He has not done _much_ +for _us_," is the general remark; a rather startling one, when one +recollects the hundreds of towns, villages, and bourgs which his care +has reached. + +The French are certainly neither grateful nor just; for they seldom +remember or acknowledge obligation either to individuals or kings. They +seem, also, wilfully blind to the blessings of the peace, which Louis +Philippe so offends their warlike propensities by insisting on: even +while they are restoring all their battered towns and erecting new +edifices, of which they are proud enough, they would willingly leave +them half done to draw the sword against some windmill giant, and buckle +on their armour to encounter some puppet-show termagant. + +The public buildings of La Rochelle are fine, but the narrowness of most +of the streets in which they are placed, prevents their showing to +advantage. If the Palais de Justice stood in the fine square opposite +the cathedral, for instance, it would have a very imposing effect; but, +as it is, one passes under its arcades, and under the arcades opposite, +half-a-dozen times before its beauties become apparent. It is a modern +building of great taste and delicacy, in the style of the Renaissance; +the friezes and entablatures being executed with extreme skill and +grace. The Bourse is also a beautiful building, having a gallery +supported by a colonnade, which connects two of its wings, and which +separates the court from a pretty plantation of ornamental trees, which +agreeably adorns the edifice. But the ancient building of the Hotel de +Ville is that which most attracts, both for its beauty and its +recollections. The taste of Francis I. and Henry II. is evident in its +architecture. Henry IV.'s additions are also obvious, and more modern +_improvements_ have considerably altered its original appearance. + +The entrance is comparatively modern and ugly; which is the more to be +regretted, since, from this spot the Maire Guiton--the great hero of La +Rochelle, spoke to the people when obliged to consent to the +capitulation of the town. However, the site itself cannot but be +interesting; and all that surrounds it remains as it must have been at +his time. The singular gallery, and its ornamented roof in compartments, +with a thousand interlaced letters and devices, as mysterious as those +at the house of Jacques Coeur, at Bourges, the facade, and statues, and +foliage, and ornamental mouldings, the curious windows, the ancient +screen, the outer walls, and _tourelles_ of the thirteenth, and +battlements and door-ways of the fifteenth century, all are singular and +attractive. + +It was, probably, in this palace that the accident happened to Charles +the Seventh, _Le Bien Servi_, told with so much characteristic +simplicity by Mezeray. + +When the news of the death of his father, the unfortunate Charles the +Sixth, was brought to the Dauphin, says the Chronicler, "he was then at +Espally, in Auvergne, a castle belonging to the Bishop of Le Puy. He +wore mourning only one day; and the next morning changed this sad colour +to scarlet. In this habit he went to hear mass in the chapel of the +castle; as soon as it was over he ordered the banner of France to be +displayed, at the sight of which all present cried out, _Vive le Roy_! +And from that time he was recognised and called king by all good +Frenchmen. But as he had neither Paris nor Rheims in his possession, he +repaired to Poitiers to be crowned, where his parliament then was, and +there received the oaths and homage of all who acknowledged him as +sovereign. From Poitiers he took his way to La Rochelle, on a warning +which was given him that the Duke of Brittany had secret designs, and +that he was making warlike and powerful preparations to take possession +of this province." + +"There he nearly lost his life by a strange invention--the machination +of some of his enemies; for, as he was holding his council in a great +hall, the beams having been sawn asunder, the ceiling gave way and fell, +burying every one beneath the ruins. Jacques de Bourbon, Seigneur de +Preaux, died in consequence, several others were grievously wounded, +but the king, by a good fortune, almost miraculous, escaped. This was a +certain presage, that, after great danger, Divine Providence, in the +end, would save him, and draw him forth from the ruins of his empire +against all human expectation." + +Thus was saved the most ungrateful of all monarchs; one who suffered his +friends to exert every nerve in his favour, while he sat carelessly by +and saw them betrayed and slaughtered for his sake, of him Lahire said, + + "On ne pouvait perdre son royaume plus gaiement." + +He was urged to action only, at last, by superstition; and when all was +gained for him, had nothing with which to reward his devoted friends but +banishment and confiscation, as in the case of Jacques Coeur, his +ill-used friend, whose money had gained him back his kingdom. Yet, at +last, his death was as wretched as if he had perished in the hall at La +Rochelle, for he died of famine, to avoid being poisoned by his +unnatural son. + +We entered the great hall at the top of the flight of steps in the +centre of the building, and followed a party who were visiting the +interior, by which means, although the hall was otherwise closed, we +were able to see the great picture recently _given by the king_, with +his usual liberality, to the town of La Rochelle. + +In this _salle_ is still seen the marble table, and the chair of the +Maire Guiton; a mark across the marble is shown as that made by his +sword when, in his agony, he struck the table, as he rose, indignant at +the proposals of surrender made to him. There is nothing else in the +hall which is not modern, even its form, which has been changed for the +convenience of the meetings which take place here. + +The picture is one of very exciting interest, and is very well executed; +it is the work of M. Omer Chartel--a native, I believe, of La +Rochelle--and is a most appropriate present to the town in which the +circumstances it depicts took place. + +Jean Guiton was mayor of La Rochelle at the time when, in 1628, Louis +XIII., or rather the Cardinal de Richelieu, besieged the Protestants in +the town. His mysterious disappearance, the uncertainty attached to his +fate, the suspicions of his motives,--notwithstanding the grandeur of +his character, and the determination of his resistance,--altogether +invest him with singular interest, and every particular of his history +which can be collected must be eagerly sought for. + +He was appointed to the office of chief-magistrate at a moment of great +danger; and on the occasion made this celebrated speech: +"Fellow-citizens, I accept the honour you design me, on this condition +only, that I shall have a right to pierce with this sword the heart of +him who shall be base enough to speak the words of peace, or who shall +dare to talk of submission. Should I be cowardly enough to do so, let my +blood expiate my crime, and let the meanest citizen be my executioner: +the sacred love of his country will exculpate him for the act. Meantime +let this poniard remain upon the council-table, an object of terror to +the craven and betrayer." + +The siege went on, and the unfortunate Rochellois were reduced to the +last extremity; famine and misery brought them to the lowest ebb of +human suffering; and, in spite of their valour and high resolves, it was +evident that nothing but submission could save them from the most +horrible fate. Their implacable enemy had wound his coils around their +town, the fatal _digue_, thrown up with labour, incredible and +impossible to all but hate, prevented any succours reaching them; there +it lay, circling their port like a huge constrictor waiting patiently +for its exhausted prey,--there was no remedy, and the chief persons of +the town repaired in a body to Guiton to represent the state of the +inhabitants and to propose a surrender. They bade him look around on the +famishing wretches who lay about the streets; they bade him look on his +perishing wife and dying child; they described the hopeless state of +things, the cruel perseverance of their foes, and they besought him to +give consent that they should treat with the besiegers. + +"Is it even so?" said Guiton; "you all desire it? Take, then, this +poniard; you know the condition on which I accepted office, you know I +swore to stab to the heart the first man who should speak of surrender; +let me be the victim; but never hope that I will participate in the +infamy which you propose to me." + +These words produced their effect; those most resolved on submission +were turned from their project, and all retired from his presence +abashed, and determined to suffer still. But the famine continued, +increased, no succour arrived, and human fortitude could endure no more; +the Rochellois opened their gates, and Richelieu was triumphant. But +where was Jean Guiton?--that question remains to be answered to this +day. + +He was never seen more; some have thought that he was assassinated by +those who feared his resentment or his opposition; or by those who +considered him still formidable, though fallen; others imagined that the +king, to whom his talents as a seaman were known, and who admired the +firmness of his character, had seduced him, by offers of great +advantage, to abandon his party and enter his service. There is a +tradition that he distinguished himself in the armies of Louis, under an +assumed name, and became a terror to the enemies of France. Again, he is +said to have been condemned to perpetual imprisonment; and again, to +have spent his days in exile from his native land, having fled from the +town at the time of its reduction. + +Whatever his fate may have been, it is unknown; and conjecture alone +fills up the blank. It is difficult to imagine that a man such as he +could listen to offers of advantage, or would have betrayed the cause +for which he was ready to sacrifice his life: that he died in exile, +unable to endure to see the destruction of his hopes, is more probable. + +The painter has chosen the moment when the citizens are making their +last appeal, and he has succeeded in conveying the feeling and interest +of the scene in an eminent degree; it is impossible to look at the +picture without tears, which certainly must speak a great deal in its +favour; criticism may come afterwards, and a few defects may make +themselves observed; but the first impression is, that of pity and +commiseration for the actors in the sad drama represented. + +The Mayor of La Rochelle, with a mournful countenance, is listening to +the words of Etienne Gentils, who was deputed as spokesman on the sad +occasion: the commandant, Perrot, and his son stand by, and by their +gestures confirm his statements. The Marquis de Feuquieres--a Catholic +prisoner, who had become a friend of the Rochellois, and anxiously +strove to obtain for them favourable terms--is a prominent person. Paul +Yvon, sire de Laden, the former mayor, adds his entreaties--Madame de +Maisonneuve, his daughter, has cast herself at the feet of Guiton, with +her two children, and points to the pale and fainting wife of the +inflexible citizen, who lies prostrate on the ground with his dying +child in her arms. The scene is fearful, and the struggle terrible; he +holds the dagger in his hand, and his look, though full of sorrow, +speaks of no indecision. You feel that it must have been impossible to +gain over such a man to the opposite party; and you cannot but thank the +artist for rescuing his memory from the reproach endeavoured to be cast +upon it. + +Altogether, the picture is most appropriate and interesting, and we +rejoiced that we were so fortunate as to arrive at La Rochelle just at +the moment that it was being placed in the Grande Salle. + +With infinitely more interest than before, we now walked down to the +Marche Neuf, where several elegant _tourelles_, at the corners of a +street of arcades, had previously attracted our attention, for we found +that the street was called Rue Guiton, and the tourelles formed part of +a beautifully-ornamented house, whose facade runs along one side of the +market-place. This was the mansion of the unfortunate mayor, and +magnificent it must have been; it is built in the style of the +Renaissance, and in the same taste as parts of the Hotel de Ville; but +the carved ornaments are more delicate. It is to be regretted that the +whole house could not be preserved as a memorial; but still the little +that remains must be hailed with pleasure, though built into shops, and +serving as receptacles for different wares. One _tourelle_ is +particularly sharp and fine, and does not seem to have sustained the +slightest injury from time. No doubt the house was very extensive; +probably the gardens occupied the space where now the market is kept. In +the centre of the square is one of the numerous fountains, for which the +town is famous: this is called La Fontaine des Petits Bancs, and no +doubt formerly one on the same spot adorned the gardens of the +mayoralty. + +No sooner had Louis XIII. gained possession of the Protestant city, than +he began the work of _Reformation_. He had his monks ready in the camp, +"like greyhounds on the slip," and three Minimes from Touraine, who had +been sent as almoners, immediately commenced the building of a convent, +which took the place of the Huguenot temples, under the name of Notre +Dame de la Victoire. Where it stood, now stands a fort and a lazaretto. + +Another convent was established at La Font, not a vestige of which +remains. + +The cathedral was once more restored to the old worship, and on the +great Fontaine du Chateau, in the square in front of it, the enemies of +the Protestant party placed _brass_ tablets, full of insult to those +who had so nobly defended their town, and who, from a generous foe, +would have commanded respect. These injurious inscriptions were, +however, removed one night; nor was it ever known by whom; and the +authorities did not think it advisable to replace them: the marks of +their existence still remain. + +Another mayor of La Rochelle obtained celebrity in much earlier times, +for conduct not quite so heroic as that of Guiton. + +Amongst the many scenes of war which have taken place before La +Rochelle, not the least curious is one related by Froissart, which +occurred at the time when France was making a desperate struggle to +recover her towns from the power of England. + +The Earl of Pembroke had been sent by his father, King Edward, with the +famous Captain Messire Guichart d'Angle, to Poitou, with vessels and +money; they set forth, commending themselves to the grace of God and St. +George, and, wind and weather favouring them, the gallant fleet soon +reached the coast of Poitou, with every prospect of success in their +adventure. But the King of France, Charles the Wise, who always managed +to get information of everything done by his enemies--whether by means +of the prescience of his astrologers or his spies is not known,--having +heard that Guichart had visited England with a view of getting supplies +and a new commander, had secretly prepared a hostile fleet ready to +way-lay the English. Forty large ships and thirteen barges, well manned +and provided, were furnished by the King of Castile, and were commanded +by four men whose names were a terror at the period. These were, +Ambrosio de Bocca Negra the Grand Admiral of Spain, Cabeza de Vaca, +Ferrant de Pion, and Radigole Roux, or Riu Diaz de Rojas. + +These valiant captains had moored their fleet opposite the harbour of La +Rochelle, awaiting the expected arrival of the English and their allies, +for whose sails they looked anxiously forth. It was on the Vigil of St. +John the Baptist's Day, 1372, that the Spaniards espied the English +approaching in gallant array, and _they_ discovered that the entrance to +the town of La Rochelle was stopped, and that a contest must ensue. + +The English were greatly inferior in ships and numbers; but there was no +want of spirit amongst them. The Earl of Pembroke made several knights +on the occasion, and every nerve was strained to support the character +of British valour. They had fearful odds to sustain, and terrible was +the battle which was fought, in which such deeds of arms were done, that +Palmerin of England, and Amadis de Gaul, seemed leading on the +combatants. But it soon became too evident that the brave handful of +English, and the small vessels, were no match for the opposing power. +This, the inhabitants of La Rochelle were aware of, but they were +ill-disposed to interfere or to assist the English. + +When Messire Jean de Harpedane, the seneschal of La Rochelle, heard the +_estrif_ and _riote_ which took place without, and found in what straits +his friends were placed, he implored the mayor and people of La Rochelle +to arm and go to the relief of the English; he entreated them to send +out the numerous vessels which crowded their quays, to aid and comfort +those who were so valiantly fighting against odds. But his animated +harangue was met with silence and coldness, and he found, to his great +vexation, that there was no sympathy for King Edward's people. + +Harpedane had been supported in his generous desire by three brave and +bold knights, the Lord of Tonnay-Boutonne, Jacques de Surgieres, and +Maubrun de Linieres; and when they found that no one would listen to +their representations, they resolved to embark, together with all their +people, and go to the succour of the English. At day-break they sailed +forth, and, with some difficulty, reached the fleet, where they were +joyfully welcomed, notwithstanding that they brought bad news, and +confirmed the doubts of the English that no succour awaited them. They, +however, resolved to fight to the last, and remained prepared for the +attack of the Spaniards, who, favoured by the wind, came down upon them, +and casting out irons, grappled with their ships and held them close. +Then ensued a terrible contest, in which the greatest part of the +English were killed, the treasure-vessels sunk, and all the others +destroyed; and the day closed by the capture of the Earl of Pembroke, +Guichart d'Angle, and all the brave knights of their company. The +Spaniards then made great rejoicings, and sailed away with all their +prisoners; but, meeting with adverse winds, they were obliged to put +into the port of Santander in Biscay, where they carried them to a +fortress and cast them into a deep dungeon, loading them with chains: +"No other courtesy had these Spaniards to offer them!" + +After this the Rochellois threw off their obedience to the English, and +declared themselves friends and subjects of France: the manner in which +this event occurred is thus related:-- + +The mayor of the town, Jean Coudourier, or Chaudrier, was secretly +friendly to the French, and had agreed with the famous Captain Ivan, of +Wales, who was before La Rochelle, to deliver the town to him. The +stratagem he used was characteristic, for the governor of the Castle, +Phillippot, though a brave and good knight, was in the case of William +of Deloraine,-- + + "Of letter or line knew he never a one;" + +and by this neglect in his education was he betrayed. + +The artful Chaudrier, who appeared to be his intimate friend, invited +the governor to dine with him one day, with some of the citizens of the +town, and took occasion, before dinner, to say that he had just received +news from England which concerned him. The governor desiring to know +them, he replied, "Of course you shall hear; I will fetch the letter, +and it shall be read to you." He then went to a coffer and took out an +open letter, sealed, indeed, with the great seal of Edward of England, +but which, in fact, related to quite other matters; the governor +recognised the seal, and was satisfied that it was an official +communication; but, as for the writing, "he was ignorance itself" in +that. A clerk, in the plot, was ordered to enlighten him as to its +contents, and read that the King desired the mayor to send him an exact +account of all the forces in La Rochelle and the castle, by the bearer +of that letter, as he desired to know, and hoped soon to visit the town +himself. + +Thereupon the mayor begged that on the day following a muster should be +made, in the grand square, of all these men-at-arms, and he offered to +lend money to the governor, being so directed by the King, to pay his +troops. All this was done as was projected, and the muster took place, +every man-at-arms leaving the chateau, and only a few servants +remaining there. Meantime the cunning mayor had provided an ambush of +four hundred men, who concealed themselves in _old houses uninhabited +which were in the square_, and, when all the troops were assembled, +these issued out, and intercepting the return, took possession of the +castle, and became masters of the citadel. + +Resistance was now in vain: the governor was completely tricked, and the +artful traitor had gained his end. La Rochelle became French, and the +first step that was taken for the security of the town, in case of its +again falling into the hands of the English, was to raze the castle to +the ground, and destroy that means of defence. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + ROCHEFORT--THE CURIOUS BONNE--AMERICANISMS--CONVICTS--THE + CHARENTE--"TULIPES"--TAILLEBOURG--HENRY THE THIRD--ST. + LOUIS--FALSE SECURITY--ROMEGOUX--PUYTAILLE. + + +OUR good fortune in respect to the weather, which we so much enjoyed at +La Rochelle, seemed to have taken leave of us when we quitted that +charming town and took our way southward. It rained in torrents when we +got into the diligence for Rochefort, and continued to do so throughout +our journey. The country is very flat for several leagues, and possesses +no remarkable beauties; occasionally a turn of the road brought us close +to the sea-shore; and its fine waves, dashing against the shingles, made +music to our ears, and we regretted leaving it behind us. The sea seems +always to me like a friend; it offers, besides, a means of escape; it +appears to tell one that a vessel is ready to take the tired wanderer +back to England: there is something like _home_ in its vicinity, and I +can well imagine with what sensations an exile might "come to the +beach," and sigh forth his soul towards his native land. But that I had +interests still greater awaiting me at Bordeaux, I should have been even +more sorry to have quitted this coast; and every time we caught another +glimpse of the waves, we hailed them with pleasure. + +We arrived at Rochefort, as we had frequently done at other towns in +France--where the climate is supposed to be better than our own--in +pouring rain; but, this time, with a little difference, inasmuch as the +diligence stopped in the midst of a large square outside the town, +planted with trees, with hotels in different directions, and the bureau +within twenty yards: nevertheless, the conducteur's pleasure was to stop +his horses exactly midway between us and shelter: all the doors were +thrown open, the horses were taken off, and the passengers were free to +get out and paddle to the nearest inn as best they might. Calling and +exclaiming were of no use; no one attended to our remonstrances; and, +scrambling out _over the wheel_--for the coupe has not the advantage of +a step--while a deluge of rain and a hurricane were striving against us, +we managed to reach the wet ground; but, being required, peremptorily, +to show ourselves at the bureau, we were not permitted to wade to an +opposite hotel, and, therefore, took our station, with other +discontented individuals, under a shed where building was going on, and +where our wet feet stuck in the lime and mortar which covered the floor. +While we waited till our conducteur had ceased to rave at his horses +and assistants, a sudden cry warned us to remove, for the diligence, +pushed in by several men, was coming upon us to discharge its baggage. +Having escaped this danger by flying into a neighbouring passage, we +obeyed the summons of our tyrant; and having discharged his demands, a +latent pity seemed to take possession of his bosom, for he allowed us to +depart, having bestirred himself to send our baggage before us to the +nearest hotel. There we found the hour of the _table d'hote_ dinner had +arrived, and much entreaty was necessary to induce the hostess to permit +us to dine alone, the absurdity of the wish seeming to strike her as +extraordinary:--"It would be so much more gay down stairs," she +observed. Wet and tired, we had no mind for the festivity which might +reign in her halls, and at length gained our point: having served us, a +pretty young country maid, in a large cap, who had looked at us with +wonder from the first, seemed resolved to fill up the little leisure +left her, by contemplating closer the extraordinary animals that chance +had brought to her mistress's hotel. She put her hands on her sides, +and, opening her black eyes wide, gave us a long stare, exclaiming, "Eh, +mon Dieu! est-ce donc possible!" + +We asked her if many English came to Rochefort; to which she replied, as +we expected, that she had never _seen one_ before. We wished her good +night; she was some time in taking our hint, but, as she was +good-humoured, her determined delay did not annoy us, as a similar +intrusion had done at La Rochelle, when the cross _bonne_, on the +evening of our arrival, took her seat at the window, and looked out into +the street to amuse herself; and, on our intimating that she might +retire, turned round fiercely, and remarked, "You can't be going to bed +yet." These _Americanisms_ are common enough in this most polite of +nations; but are simply amusing from such unsophisticated beings as the +attendant at Rochefort. + +Rochefort is a handsome, clean, open, well-built town, quite without +antiquities; but, as our next destination was Saintes--one of the oldest +towns in France--we were content with its more modern appearance, though +not with its pavement, which is particularly bad and rugged. It is +surrounded with very handsome ramparts, or boulevards, planted with fine +trees, and the principal streets have avenues, in one of which the +large market is held, which has a picturesque effect--the high poplars +and spreading acacias throwing their flickering shadows on groups of +peasants in lively-coloured costumes, giving a brilliancy and life to +the scene, which is not found in the other parts of the remarkably dull +town of Louis XIV. Rochefort is the third important port in France; but +as nothing can be so uninteresting to me, who do not understand these +details, as to look on fortifications, and the bustle of a port when +there is no sea to repay one--and Rochefort is only on the Charente, +four leagues from the sea--I did not attempt to visit the quays; the +hospitals are said to be fine; also, the school of artillery, and +several commercial establishments of great consequence; but the trade of +Rochefort does not appear very flourishing, to judge by the desolate +appearance of the streets and squares. + +The only place we visited, was the Jardin des Plantes, which is +charmingly laid out in alleys and parterres; but a circumstance occurred +which entirely destroyed the pleasure of our walk, and brought thoughts +of woe and crime into the midst of beautiful nature and elegant art. As +we hung over the parapet of a wall, we observed a party of men passing +beneath, dressed in a singular costume: they were singing rather +vociferously, and it struck me that, as they moved, a clanking sound +accompanied their steps, for which I feared to account. As I turned +away from these, my eye was attracted by a group of gardeners, in an +alley near, who wore the same dress of dull yellowish red. One of them +was a tall, fine, handsome man, who seemed busy in his occupation; the +others were indolently using their spades and brooms; and as they moved, +I saw that all had irons round their legs. A shudder came over me, and a +sort of fear, which I could not shake off, as I looked round to see that +we did not share these groves alone with such companions, of whom we +were not long in taking our leave;--not that there was anything hostile +or alarming in their appearance; but, though one may every day jostle a +robber or a murderer, ignorantly, in the streets, yet to be "innocent of +the knowledge" of his character, is much more agreeable to one's nerves, +than the certainty of his being a culprit. + +Although we had taken every precaution, by warning all the servants of +our intention of departing by the steam-boat for Saintes,--had paid our +bill, and been ready an hour before the time, yet the _garcon_ who was +to accompany us to the quay was nowhere to be found when we required his +aid. When a diligence is to start, it is the custom, as we well knew, +always to announce its time of departure an hour, or sometimes two, +before it goes, as the _monde_ is supposed to be never in time; but, +even in France, time must be kept when tide is in question; and we, +therefore, were very much afraid that our dilatory waiter would cause us +to lose our passage. It would seem that the French can do nothing +without being frightened into action; and that they enjoy putting +themselves into frights and fevers; for our porter, when he did appear, +had to hurry, with his great barrow, through numerous streets, calling +all the way, and begging that the boat would stop for _des dames_, till +he was almost exhausted. The captain, who must have been used to these +scenes, took compassion on him, I suppose, and we stept at length into +the steamer, amidst the congratulations of the crowd, and a whole host +of porters, who brought every article of baggage singly on board, in +order to make the most of their zeal. + +Henry IV., who liked to pay compliments to his people, and gain + + "Golden opinions from all sorts of men," + +was accustomed, it is said, to call the river Charente "the prettiest +stream in his kingdom;" and it certainly deserves much admiration, for +the borders are rich, varied, and graceful; and the voyage along its +verdant banks is extremely agreeable on a calm, fine day: such as we +were fortunate enough to choose. There is no want of variety; for +heights, crowned with towers and turrets and woods and meadows, succeed +each other rapidly, offering pleasing points of view, and reviving +recollections of ancient story; and though the Charente by no means +deserves to be compared to the Loire, ambitious as the natives of the +department are that it should be considered equal in beauty and interest +to that famous river; yet there is quite enough charm belonging to it to +please the traveller who seeks for new scenes. + +In few parts of France do the English travel so little as in this +direction; and I believe the pretty river Charente has been rarely +visited. A summer at La Rochelle could, nevertheless, be pleasantly +spent, and the facilities of steam-boats in so many directions, is a +great advantage, as there is much worth seeing in this agreeable +country. + +We were much struck with the extremely beautiful effect produced by the +fairy-like, delicate appearance of a sort of crocus--of a pale, clear, +lilac colour--which entirely covered the meadows, the light as it shone +through their fragile stems making them look aerial. All along the +banks, for leagues, these pretty flowers[9] spread themselves over the +ground, in a perfect cloud of blossoms, reaching to the very wave, and, +shaking their gossamer heads to the breeze, gleaming their golden +centres through the transparent petals, like a light in an alabaster +vase. As we admired them, a young woman near us, in the boat, shook her +head, and exclaimed that we were not, perhaps, aware that those pretty +'_tulipes_' were deadly poison, and that very lately, a man of a village +near this, had employed their bulbous roots as onions, and given the +soup made with them to his wife and a neighbour, to whom he bore a +spite: that they both died, and he was found to be the murderer, and +suffered accordingly. My thoughts recurred, as she spoke, to the +convicts in the garden of Rochefort, and with no very pleasant +sensations. I was sorry she had spoilt the pleasure I had taken in +looking at these beautiful flowers, which she seemed to regard with +horror. + +[Footnote 9: The _Iris zippium_.] + +There are several fine suspension-bridges over the river; this part of +the country is celebrated for them; that of Charente is considered very +remarkable of its kind, and it is a usual excursion from La Rochelle to +visit it. + +At St. Savinien is a venerable church and tower, which make an imposing +appearance, on a height, and the ruins of the once redoubtable castle of +Taillebourg frown majestically from the rocky hills they cover. All this +coast was the scene of the contentions of our early kings; and Coeur de +Lion and his father were actors in several of the dramas here performed. + +The great hero, but disobedient son, Richard, after being forced by +Henry II. to quit Saintes where he had entrenched himself, fled to this +very fortress of Taillebourg, and there defied attack. Henry III. of +England, more than half a century later, made this part of the river the +theatre of his contentions with St. Louis, as Joinville relates. Henry +had disembarked at Royan--now a fashionable bathing-place, at the mouth +of the Charente--and resolved, if possible, to gain back all that John +Lackland had lost, led his army from town to town, taking possession of +all in his way, till the sudden arrival of St. Louis stopped his career. +The King of France laid siege to Tonnay-Boutonne, of which strong place +scarcely anything now remains, took it, and reconquered several other +fortresses. At length Louis sat down before Taillebourg, then held by +Geoffrey de Rancon for the King of England. It was here, in these +crocus-covered meadows, opposite the blackened walls of this crumbling +ruin, that the great monarch pitched his tents and placed his camp, +intending from thence to attack his enemy at Saintes. + +Henry, meantime, felt secure that the Lord of Taillebourg would stand +his friend, and that his strong castle would be a powerful protection to +the English army, and he should be able materially to molest the French; +but the grim Baron de Rancon was in his heart a foe to the English, and +had embraced their cause upon compulsion: he waited but a favourable +moment to betray them; and when, from his towers, he saw the French army +encamped in the meadows beneath them, he threw open his gates and +sallied forth, followed by a numerous band of warriors, visited King +Louis in his tent, and offered him his castle to abide in. His +invitation was accepted, and Louis and his knights returned with him to +his castle. + +Henry, hearing of this arrangement, took counsel with his general, +Hugues de Lusignan, and removed his head-quarters immediately to the +neighbourhood of De Rancon's fortress, placing his troops in the meadows +immediately opposite those occupied by the soldiers of Louis; the river +only separated them, and across it was a long bridge, part of the ruins +of which, evidently of Roman construction, may still be seen far away in +the flat meadows. Henry's force was much inferior to that of his +opponent, and he declined coming at once to battle, as Louis desired: he +drew off his soldiers, leaving a strong defence on the bridge; by this +movement wishing to indicate that he did not intend engaging; but the +French could not be restrained, and Louis, giving way to their +impetuosity, charged the defenders of the bridge at the head of five +hundred knights. Immediately the river was covered with soldiers, who +leaped into boats, and, hastening across the river, fell upon the +English with great fury. The shock was well sustained; Duke Richard, +brother to Henry, Lusignan, De Montford, and others, brought up their +troops to the conflict. St. Louis ran great risks that day; for +Joinville says, that for every man with him the English had a hundred: +as he was in the thick of the fray, his life was in great peril; but he +was successful, and remained in possession of the bridge, and the left +bank of the Charente. Had he pursued his advantage, the English might +have been entirely routed; but, reflecting that the next day was Sunday, +and should be devoted to prayer, he consented to the truce proposed by +Duke Richard, and ordered his men to re-cross the bridge. + +Richard cunningly took advantage of this circumstance, and hurrying back +to his brother's tent, exclaimed, "Quick, quick! not a moment is to be +lost; let us fly or we are defeated!" As rapidly as possible the tents +were struck, the baggage prepared, and every man in readiness; and, in +the darkness of night, King Henry mounted his good steed, and never +slackened rein till he reached the walls of Saintes, followed by his +soldiers, who, harassed and fatigued, were not sorry to find themselves +once more in security. + +The astonishment of Louis was great, when, at break of day, he looked +from his castle windows, and saw no vestige of the great army which had +covered the country on the preceding night: he very quietly ordered his +troops to cross the bridge, and they took possession of the spot just +left by the English. The next day he prepared to march on Saintes, and +sent couriers forward to reconnoitre the country: a shepherd, who had +observed these movements, hastened to warn the Count de la Marche, who, +with his two sons, and his vassals, were in the Faubourg de St. Eutrope. +Hugues de Lusignan marched forth immediately to meet the French +_avant-garde_, without naming his intention to the King of England who +was lodged in the town. + +Count Alfonse de Boulogne coming up at the moment with his party, joined +the _avant-garde_, and a furious combat took place: the first who fell +was the chatelain of Saintes, who held the banner of the Count de la +Marche. On both sides resounded the terrible war-cries of "Aux armes! +Aux armes!" and "Royaux! Royaux!" and "Mont-joie! Mont-joie!" according +to the usage of both nations. + +These cries, the neighing of horses, and the clash of arms, were heard +to a great distance, and reached the ears of the King of England, who +demanded the cause: he was told that the Count de la Marche, resolved to +repair his honour, which he considered that their late retreat had +sullied, had attacked the French. At this news Henry called for his +armour, assembled his warriors, and hastened to the succour of his +father-in-law. At this juncture arrived King Louis. Mortified to be +forestalled by an enemy, who he considered had basely quitted the field, +he gave the signal, and the soldiers of France fell pell-mell on the +Anglo-Aquitainians, who received them firmly. + +A general melee then took place beneath the walls of Saintes; and in the +midst of the vines, amongst the groves, in the fields, on the high +roads, a frightful carnage ensued. + +The French fought with fury, increased by the resistance they met with; +the English ranks began to thin; overpowered by numbers, their +battalions became broken, the men turned their backs, and fled in +disorder to the gates of the town, to which the French pursued them with +fearful slaughter. In vain Henry and Hugues de Lusignan endeavoured to +rally the dispersed troops; their expostulations were drowned in the +noise and confusion, and they were themselves carried away by the stream +of fugitives. Many of the French, in the ardour of the combat, entered +the town with the enemy, and were made prisoners. Louis then sounded a +retreat, and fixed his camp a short distance from the walls. + +The following days were employed in secret negotiations between the +Count de la Marche and St. Louis, which ended in their reconciliation, +and the Count's abandonment of the English monarch. Meantime Henry, with +his usual carelessness, after the first trouble was over, blindly +deceived himself into security, and resolved to spend the heats of the +month of August in quiet and enjoyment, forgetting that he was little +better than a prisoner in Saintes, and taking no heed of the treachery +of his friends without. Four days he allowed to pass as if no enemy were +at his gates; he even made parties of pleasure, and seemed resolved to +think no more of the war, when he was suddenly roused from his false +security by his brother, Richard, who had been warned of the dangers +which threatened them by a French knight, whose life he had saved in +Palestine. + +By this means the self-deceiving monarch learnt that preparations were +being made by Louis to invest the town with all his forces, and that the +next day at day-break the siege was to commence. When this intelligence +reached Henry he was just about to sit down to table; at the same time +he learnt that the citizens of Saintes proposed to treat with his foes; +and he had not an instant to lose. He promptly gave orders that the +houses of the _bourgeois_ should _be set on fire_, and, mounting his +horse, set out, hungry and fatigued as he was after a day's excursion of +amusement, towards Blaye, as fast as speed could take him. His captains +were soon informed of his flight; they left their half-cooked viands, as +did all the army, who were still fasting, and the confusion of departure +exceeded belief; all hurried towards Blaye, where they sought refuge, +exhausted and worn, and but for a few berries which they gathered to +satisfy the cravings of their hunger, they had nearly all perished on +the way. + +The following day the citizens and clergy of Saintes, in solemn +procession, repaired to the camp of St. Louis, bringing with them the +keys of the town, and swearing oaths of fealty. The King of France +entered in triumph, occupied all the evacuated posts, and placed a +garrison in the old citadel of the capital. His next care was to subdue +all the lords of the neighbouring castles, which, having done, he +commenced building a new line of walls to replace the dilapidated +Anglo-Roman line, which was falling in ruins. After this, says the +chronicler, St. Louis returned to his dominion of France, leaving +garrisons in all the strong places of Saintonge and Aunis. + +The ruins of the castle of Taillebourg serve, like most fortresses in +France now-a-days, as promenades to the town to which they belong; all +along the top of the massive walls, which extend to some distance, is a +line of open balustrades, which has, from the river, a very ornamental +and somewhat Italian effect. Spreading trees rise above this, which +appear to form part of a plantation within, and placed, as the castle +is, on a very great elevation, at a turn of the river, which it must +have commanded, it has a peculiarly imposing and picturesque effect. The +town by no means answers to the beauty of its promenades; but that is +very frequently the case, and need not be a matter of surprise. A series +of rugged rocks, continued for some distance along the shore, add much +to the beauty of the scenery. The next castle is that of Bussac, which +retains a part of its old walls and towers, though a modern building +fills up the vacancies between. It stands well, and must have been a +fitting neighbour to Taillebourg; beyond this is a magnificent wood, Le +Bois de Sainte Marie, which covers the hills for nearly a league, and +has a very grand appearance. + +During the wars of religion the river Charente, from the first fortress +we passed of Tonnay Charente, the site of which and a few stones alone +remain, to the town of Saintes, was a continued theatre of contention +and violence. One scene is curious; its hero was another of the +redoubtable barons of Taillebourg named Romegoux, whose singular +expedition is thus recounted: + +The town of Saintes, having changed masters several times, was in the +hands of the Huguenot party, and the governor was the lord of Bussac +when Charles IX. sent the Duke of Anjou into that part of the country; +and, under his orders, the Sieur de la Riviere-Puytaille made several +attempts on the town; but Bussac's vigilance foiled him continually. As +he was returning to his fortress of Tonnay-Charente, there to wait for +another occasion of molesting the enemy, in passing the castle of +Taillebourg he was attacked by the Huguenot garrison. After a brisk +skirmish the latter returned to his stronghold, growling like a +disturbed bear, and longing for an opportunity to vent his rage. + +Meantime, Puytaille was again summoned to the walls of Saintes, for the +citizens had risen; and fearing that an army would besiege them if they +held for the Protestants, they resolved to turn out those who were +within their walls, and give themselves up to the king's officer. Bussac +was obliged therefore to yield, and was allowed to march out of one +gate as Puytaille marched in at the other. + +When the Baron de Romegoux heard this he was greatly enraged, and +resolved to make an effort to regain the place; he accordingly invited +five or six hundred men, whom he thought as zealous as himself, to a +rendezvous, but only twenty-five attended his summons. This handful +showing themselves little disposed to attempt so perilous an adventure, +Romegoux was almost distracted with vexation; he wept, tore his hair, +and used every entreaty he could think of to induce them to join him, +for he was certain of success. At length he succeeded in inspiring them +with his own ardour, and they consented to accompany him wherever he +should lead them. + +Armed with axes, and furnished with ladders, they set out, in the middle +of the night, for Saintes. They fixed their ladder near the Porte +Aiguieres; as they were mounting, Romegoux heard a patrol passing; as +soon as it was gone he and his companions lost no time in hurrying into +the town; he divided his party into two, placing them at a small +distance from the rampart, to protect his retreat in case of surprise; +then, followed by the most determined of his band, he marched straight +to the lodging of Combaudiere, who had been left by Puytaille in his +place to command in his absence. + +Romegoux broke open the door, surprised the governor in his bed, forced +him to rise, and, without giving him time to dress himself, obliged him +to march before them; but so paralysed was he with terror, that he had +scarcely the power to move. One of the Huguenots, therefore, placed him +on his shoulders, and carried him rapidly off towards the Porte +Aiguieres, intending to descend by the ladders which had given them +entrance: but their companions had, in the meantime, broken the bar of +the gate, and lowered the drawbridge. Romegoux and his people made their +exit in good order through this door, to the sound of the tocsin, the +drums and the cries of alarm of the garrison and citizens, who, awaked +from their slumbers, were hurrying hither and thither in the utmost +confusion. The victorious party paused only at the end of the faubourg, +to allow the governor to dress himself, and then went off with their +prize. + +Romegoux, however, though he gained great reputation by this daring +adventure, was unable to carry his design further, owing to want of +means, and he was so disappointed and annoyed at being forced to stop in +mid-career, that he was nearly dying with vexation. + +In this castle of Taillebourg was afterwards established a Protestant +chapel, and _there_ were buried, after the fatal battle _des Arenes_, at +Saintes, the _four brothers_ Coligny, of whom d'Aubigne says, "They were +similar in countenance, but still more in probity, prudence, and +valour." + +After a very agreeable voyage, we, at length, saw the towers and spires +of the old town of Saintes rising from the waters, and landed, for the +first time, _from a steam-boat_, without much confusion: we resigned +ourselves at once to the care of a very little boy, who bustled about +with great importance, and conducted us in triumph to the Hotel de La +Couronne, by a long and beautiful boulevard of majestic trees, which +gave a very imposing impression of the town. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + SAINTES--ROMAN ARCH OF TRIUMPH--GOTHIC BRIDGE--THE COURS--RUINED + CITY--CATHEDRAL--COLIGNY--RUINED PALACE--ST. + EUTROPE--AMPHITHEATRE--LEGEND OF STE. EUSTELLE--THE PRINCE OF + BABYLON--FETE--THE COTEAU--STE. MARIE. + + +OF course the earliest object which one hastens to see in Saintes, is +the famous Roman arch. We beheld it first by moon-light, when its large, +spectre-like proportions, as it stood in shadow, at the extremity of the +bridge, gave a solemn character to the scene suitable to its antiquity: +the uncertain light softened all the inequalities of its surface, and it +seemed a monument of the magnificence of the days of old, which time and +tempest had spared; but it was far otherwise in the morning, when we +paid it our second visit, and a broad glare of sun-light brought out +all its age and _infirmities_: then became apparent the rents and +ravages which had entirely deprived it of the original polish of its +surface; and it seems to totter, as if the first gale would hurl its +ruins into the waters beneath. Not a stone looks in its place; they +appear as if confusedly heaped one on the other, after having been +destroyed and built up again: it is, therefore, with infinite surprise +that you find, on approaching nearer and nearer, that its solidity is +still so great--that the melted lead inserted between the stones, which +binds it so firmly, is as strong as ever, and that parts of the interior +of the arch are even and smooth; much, however, of this has been +restored. After looking at this magnificent arch a little while, you +begin to imagine it, in the glare of day, as perfect as it appeared when +the moon-beams played above, and showed it in such perfection; and all +the modern buildings round, look like houses built of dominos compared +to its gigantic form. It is as if an old Roman were standing at the +entrance of the town, silent, stern, and proud, and gazing with contempt +on the ephemeral creatures of an age he knew nothing of, and who were +unworthy to pass him by. + +Everything about this singular monument is mysterious: it seems +difficult to determine how it came in its present position, for the +bridge on which it stands is of considerably later date than itself, +although that is of Gothic construction. It would appear that, at the +time it was built, the waters of the Charente did not run in that +direction, and having changed their course, the bridge was built from +necessity, and joined the arch which existed long before: but then it +must always have stood as high above the bed of the river as it does +now, which puzzles one again. It is true that traces are still to be +found of the ancient bed of a river, and, in a house in the Faubourg des +Dames, an arch, called by tradition _Le Pont-Amillon_, has been +discovered. + +The date of the monument is given as the year 774 of Rome, and 21 A.D. +It has two circular arches, supported by Corinthian pillars, and a broad +entablature; on which the curious can read an inscription, some of the +letters of which, with difficulty, we could decipher. Above the cornice, +is a double range of battlements, which have a most singular appearance, +as they do not, by any means, amalgamate with the rest of the building: +they are, nevertheless, very boldly constructed, and appear to form part +of the original design. There is, however, no doubt that they are the +work of a Gothic hand, and may, probably, date with the bridge. The +stones of which it is composed, are masses of four and five French feet +long, and two and a half thick, placed at equal distances, without +cement, and rendered solid by the introduction of melted lead and iron +hooks, some of which may still be seen in the intervals between the +stones. The stone is from the neighbourhood of Saintes, and is full of +shells and fossils: its height is twenty metres, French measurement: and +it is three metres thick, and fifteen wide. + +Great precautions were taken, in 1666, to preserve this precious +monument, at the expense of M. de Bassompierre, Bishop of Saintes; but +so disjointed are some of its parts, that, except the utmost care is +continued, it can scarcely be expected to survive the demolition of the +ancient bridge, on which it stands, and which is doomed to destruction. + +I heard with consternation that such was about to be the case, and that +a suspension-bridge is to replace it. What they will do with _the old +Roman_ it is difficult to say, or how they are to preserve it, standing, +as it does, almost in the centre of the river, or what effect it will +produce in so isolated a position, if permitted to stand, are questions +which naturally occur. It is to be hoped that the inhabitants will delay +its fate as long as possible, and, considering how very much must be +done in Saintes before, by any possibility, it can be made to approach +to anything like a habitable town, it seems a pity that one of its most +interesting and famous possessions should be torn from it. When its Arch +of Triumph falls, much of the glory of Saintes will fall with it; but it +will probably one day become a commercial town; the steam-boats, which +now stop below the venerable old bridge, will sweep over the spot where +it stood for ages, and the old Roman arch will be considered in the way, +and will be _removed_! + +The inscriptions on the _attic_, which is divided into three parts, I +give from a work on the subject, as it may interest _archaeological +readers_:-- + + INSCRIPTION ON THE ATTIC, NEXT THE TOWN. + + "To Germanicus Caesar, son of Tiberius Augustus, grandson of the + divine Augustus, great grandson of the divine Julius, augur, priest + of Augustus, consul for the second time, emperor for the second + time. + + "To Tiberius Caesar, son of the divine Augustus, grand pontiff, + consul for the fourth time, emperor for the eighth time the year of + his tribunitian power. + + "To Drusus Caesar, son of Tiberius Augustus, grandson of the divine + Augustus, great grandson of the divine Julius, pontiff, augur." + + * * * * * + + INSCRIPTION ON THE FRIEZE, NEXT THE TOWN. + + "Caius Julius Rufus, son of Caius Julius Ottuaneunus, grandson of + Caius Julius Gededmon, great grandson of Epotsorovidus, priest, + consecrated to the worship of Rome and Augustus in the temple, + which is at the confluence, in his quality of intendant of works, + has made the dedication of this monument." + +The inscription on the frieze, at the side of the Faubourg, is the same +repeated. + +There seems, however, to be much uncertainty as to who the monument was +dedicated to, and the subject is a constant source of dispute with the +learned: the inscription can hardly be said to exist at present, so much +obliterated are the letters; but enough seems to remain to revive +inquiry and puzzle conjecture. The arch is more massive, but scarcely so +beautiful as the arches at Autun, with which we were so much delighted: +it is much more conspicuous and higher: both of those being on low +ground. There is no occasion to seek for this of Saintes; for it stands, +like a huge baron of old, guarding the river: we saw a company of +soldiers pass beneath it, as we lingered at a distance, and we felt +astonished to think how, in the midst of the centuries of violence it +had seen, in all the stormings and batterings and besiegings, it could +possibly have escaped, and be still there, a monument of the power of +the most redoubtable warriors of all. + +Saintes is one of the most extraordinary towns I ever saw: it somewhat +reminded me of Autun, of Provins, of Chateau Thierry; yet it is very +different from either, and in fact + + "None but itself can be its parallel." + +It is separated into three towns, quite distinct one from the other, yet +joined, like a trefoil. As you stand on the broad boulevard leading +above the first town, the other two spread out beneath on either hand. +The churches of Notre Dame, of St. Eutrope, and the cathedral of St. +Pierre, each claim a part. + +Descending the _Cours_, the aspect of that division which claims the +stupendous church of St. Eutrope[10] is wondrously imposing. I never +beheld anything more so, and we stood some time on the high-raised road +which commanded the view, rapt in astonishment at the ruined grandeur +before us. The enormous tower of St. Eutrope rises from a mass of +buildings which appear Lilliputian beside it; gardens and vines and +orchards slope down from it, and low in the meadows a long series of +arches betray the celebrated amphitheatre--another of the wonders of +this remarkable place. What convents and churches and castles and towers +have been cleared away to form the _Cours_ which extend from town to +town, I cannot say; but it appears as if not a quarter of the original +site can now be occupied; indeed, one is perfectly bewildered at every +step with the piles of ruin and rubbish scattered about, the remains of +old buildings destroyed to make room for new, which, begun and left +unfinished, or completed and then abandoned, have added a series of +modern ruins to those which are antique. There is not a single street, +or place, or road in Saintes, which can be called finished: materials +for building are scattered in all directions, and, in many parts, moss +and weeds have grown up amidst the piles of stone destined to construct +some new house or temple: in the meantime the streets are without +pavement, or as bad, hollow, damp, dirty, and dreary; the houses are +unpainted, slovenly, neglected, and ugly: the churches are dilapidated, +or but half restored; grass grows in the newly-projected squares, and +all is in a state of confusion and litter. It seems as if the task of +regenerating Saintes, rebuilding it from the ground, in fact, had been +undertaken in a moment of desperation, and the project had been +abandoned as suddenly as conceived. + +[Footnote 10: Since this was written, I grieve to observe, by the French +newspapers, that the tower and part of the church of St. Eutrope, have +been destroyed by lightning.] + +All attention seems now directed to the river side. The erection of a +new quay absorbs every mind; and all the workmen that can be procured +are busy hurrying to and fro, amidst the mud and water of the spot where +passengers land from the steam-boat. One would wonder why any body +should think of coming to Saintes at all, except from curiosity, as we +did; but that it is the direct route to the Gironde; where, from +Mortagne, another steam-boat, in communication with the Charente, +conveys passengers to Bordeaux. Since the establishment of these boats a +great change has been operated in Saintes, and probably its condition +will now improve. + +Notwithstanding this _too true_ description of the once important +capital of Saintonge, it possesses an interest which may well attract +the antiquarian visitor to its walls. The ruins of the Arch and those of +the Amphitheatre alone would be attraction enough for many; and as the +hotels are remarkably good, clean, and comfortable, a sojourn of a few +days in Saintes will quite repay the traveller who comes, as we did, out +of his way to visit its battered walls. We were not fortunate, as at La +Rochelle, in the weather, for most of our excursions were performed in +the midst of showers. I cannot but think, from the experience of several +years' travelling, that there is even more uncertainty in the weather in +France than in England; and I was particularly struck with the fact, +that the nearer we approached the south, the colder, damper, and less +genial it became. It is a mere absurdity to talk of the difference of +our climate and that of France, in any part: it is assuredly _warmer_ in +England, and not a whit more changeable. + +We took advantage of the first gleams, after a wet night, to explore the +strange old town, once said to contain a hundred thousand inhabitants, +and, both in the time of the Gauls and the Romans, to have been of the +utmost importance. + +The cathedral is a monument of the violence of religious fanaticism; it +was almost torn to pieces by the Huguenots; in the sixteenth century, +all its fine architecture was defaced, its saints dragged from their +niches, and its ornaments destroyed. The principal entrance must, +originally, have been very grand; but is so much injured that little but +its form remains. The most remarkable part of the building is the +enormous tower, which rises to a gigantic height above all the edifices +of the town on the side next the river, vying with that of St. Eutrope +in the opposite quarter. This tower is supported by flying buttresses, +of great strength and beauty: the Calvinists had resolved on its +destruction, and had already begun its demolition, when it was +represented to Admiral Coligny that the fall of so gigantic a mass would +probably occasion serious accidents; and that if it were fortified it +might be turned to great advantage for the defence of the town. +Fortunately, this advice was taken, and the fine tower remains in all +its stupendous grandeur, with its flying buttresses, crocketed pyramids +and arches, unique in their form; it is said to be one of the largest in +Europe, and one of the finest specimens of the decorated style of Gothic +architecture. + +The interior of the church is so much altered as to have little of the +original left; however, a few bits show how fine it must once have been: +the mean buildings which formerly hemmed it in are removed, and an open +space is left, which allows it to be seen to some advantage. + +On the spot where once stood the capitol, the civil hospital now crowns +the height, and a fine view of the country and the river may be had from +that point, though the road to it is sufficiently difficult to deter one +from approaching it. A fine military hospital is placed in an elevated +position answering to the other. The college, founded by Henry IV., is +said to be good, and the prison very admirable in its way. The rest of +the public buildings are no more to be admired than the private ones. + +We remarked a very handsome house, forming one side of a neglected +square, whose grand terraces and fine wings spoke it something of +consequence. We found it was once the bishop's palace, but had been long +left to go to ruin; and a part of it was now used by some Sisters of +Charity for a school. It was but of a piece with the rest of Saintes, +desolate and degraded, and "fallen from its high estate." + +St. Eutrope lay in our way to the ruins of the great amphitheatre, and +we paused as we passed it at an open door, which was too tempting a +circumstance to be neglected on a rainy morning, when there might be +some trouble in finding the sacristan, and we rightly judged this would +lead to the famous crypt, the object of admiration and surprise to +antiquarians. Down a steep inclination we pursued our way towards a dark +nook, and there, through an iron grating, we discovered before us the +subterranean church, of immense size, and in perfect preservation; its +massive pillars and sharpcut capitals, its high-curved roof and circular +arches, all perfect, and its floor and walls undergoing restoration. We +resolved to see it more in detail hereafter, and, in the meantime, went +on to a lower part of the dim passage, where, turning aside, we found +ourselves close to a huge well of fearful depth, all round which were +ranged stone coffins, of primitive forms, one, in particular, still +preserving its cover, and of a most mysterious shape, which must have +belonged to some early inhabitant of this holy pile. + +While we were speculating on the subject, a voice at a distance reached +our ears, requesting to know how long we intended to remain in that +retreat: we returned, and found, stationed at the door by which we had +entered, a young woman with pails of water by her side: she laughed +good-humouredly, and remarked--"I would not disturb you as I saw you +looking through the bars of the old church as I came back from drawing +water; but you staid so long that I began to think it time to call out, +as I must lock the door and go home now." We accordingly accompanied her +out, resolving to resume our visit on our return from the Arenes, to +which she directed us. + +We followed a very steep path; and, keeping a range of ruined arches in +view, threaded the mazes of a long lane, till we arrived at the +irregular space where once stood the famous Roman amphitheatre. The +diameter of this building is the same as that of Nimes, and it, +apparently, could have held about five thousand spectators: the ruins +are scattered over a very large extent in confused heaps; but there are +a great many vaulted arches, small and great, still standing, some +covered with weeds and grass, and overhung with wild vines and flowering +shrubs. There appears little doubt that here was a Naumachia, from +different discoveries that have been made of vaults which must have +conducted the waters to this spot. The meadows and little hills all +around are covered with remains of this once important place of +amusement; and the labourer is for ever turning up, with his spade or +plough, coins and capitals and broken pillars and pavement, belonging to +the period of its existence. + +There still exists in the centre of what was the Naumachia, a well, +called La Fontaine de Sainte-Eustelle, to which miraculous virtues are +even now attributed, and to which the following legend belongs: + +Eustelle was the daughter of an officer high in command in Saintonge: a +man of great power and severity, and a pagan: he had a particular horror +of the sect called Christians, who had begun to spread themselves over +the country, and were slowly, but surely, making their way. It was far +different with his beautiful daughter, whose nurse having imbibed the +principles of the true faith, had communicated her knowledge to her +foster-child, who listened with delight to her lessons, and, from year +to year, as she grew up, more than ever abhorred the superstitious +observances of her father and her friends. In the huge hollow stones +worshipped as gods, she saw only profanation; and, while compelled to +offer sacrifice to an imaginary deity, she in her heart addressed +prayers to a superior Being, that he would condescend to enlighten +those who were led astray, and assist her in her secret faith. + +It was at this period that her father resolved to bestow her in marriage +on the son of Xerxes, King of Babylon; and as the prince was shortly +expected to arrive in Saintonge, he bade her prepare to receive her +intended husband. Eustelle heard these tidings with despair, secretly +resolving never to become the wife of a heathen, such as she was certain +the Prince of Babylon must be: her tears and entreaties, however, had no +effect on her father, who began to suspect her change of faith, and +resolved to secure the alliance at once. Preparations on a magnificent +scale were being made, and in a few days the bridegroom elect was +expected to arrive, when news was suddenly brought that the prince had +disappeared from his father's court, and was nowhere to be found. The +father of Eustelle hastened to her chamber to prepare her for the +disappointment, when, to his surprise, he found her not; and on the +couch where she usually slept a golden cross was laid; but no one could +give any account of her. The country was searched in all directions in +vain; and it was at length supposed that Eustelle had destroyed herself. + +It was, however, far otherwise, for, in a cavern by the side of a +fountain, on the spot where now stand the ruins of the Roman +amphitheatre, Eustelle had concealed herself, having been guided thither +by a shining light, which flitted before her to the spot, and rested at +the mouth of the cavern: there she was miraculously supported, drinking +only of the waters of the fountain, which not only served her for +nourishment, but so increased her beauty, that she was a marvel to +behold. One morning, as she came forth from her cavern to perform her +usual devotions at the side of the fountain, she was surprised to see a +young man kneeling on the ground in devout prayer, so absorbed that he +did not perceive her approach; but as he raised his eyes, her figure +becoming suddenly visible to him, he exclaimed, "Oh, blessed Heaven! my +prayers are then heard--the Holy Virgin is herself before me!" Eustelle +started, and amazed at his words, demanded who he was, and whether he +was indeed a Christian, like herself, as his exclamation made it appear. +"Beautiful lady," replied he, "since you are not, as I supposed, a +heavenly visitant, know that I am Eutrope, the son of the King of +Babylon, fled from a marriage which I detested with a pagan of this +country. I am, indeed, a Christian and a priest, and obliged to conceal +my faith from the persecutors of those who hate us. The time will come +when we can declare ourselves, for already we increase in numbers as in +faith." + +Eustelle, as she looked upon his features and heard the soft tones of +his voice, felt a momentary regret that he had been so precipitate in +rejecting the supposed pagan wife offered him; but considering such +feelings a crime, she replied: "Holy father, you see before you one who +has also fled from persecution, and sought a solitude where she can +worship the only true God in safety. I am she who was destined to be +your wife, had not a better fate been prepared for us both. In future, +we can serve and pray, and our spirits will together praise Him, who has +directed us thus to meet." + +What passed in the mind of Eutrope, when he heard these words, it is +difficult to say; but he resigned himself at once to the lot which was +appointed for him. He built himself a hut at a small distance from the +cavern, and, devoting himself to prayer and thanksgiving, he permitted +his mind only to regard Eustelle in the light of a holy sister, while +she on her part held him as a saint sent to confirm her in her belief. +By the side of the miraculous fountain, many a time did the holy pair +sit in pious converse, mutually instructing each other, while angels +hovered above them, and joined in the chorus of praise which they sang. + +St. Eutrope afterwards became the first bishop of Saintes, and St. +Eustelle lived a recluse in her cavern, where miracles were long +afterwards performed by her, and where she expired at the same moment +that her holy companion suffered the martyrdom which secured him a crown +of glory to all eternity. + +The fete of the two saints is kept together on the 30th of April, and, +for eight days after, the otherwise quiet town of Saintes is a scene of +gaiety and rejoicing: a fair is held, and minstrels, jugglers, and +merchants of all kinds add to the liveliness of the scene. Why such +demonstrations should be made in honour of two persons whose lives were +spent in solitude and self-denial, it is somewhat difficult to +understand; and how the dull, dreary, desolate, and ruined town can ever +be made to wear a brilliant aspect, is equally difficult of +comprehension; but such _is said_ to be the case. On the morning of the +fete, great honours were paid, formerly, to St. Eustelle, which are not +even yet altogether discontinued. An image of the holy Virgin is +suspended in the grotto near the miraculous well, and there the water is +dispensed to believers in its efficacy "for a consideration." + +It is principally visited by young girls, who are anxious to secure a +happy issue to an existing attachment, or to obtain, through the medium +of the indulgent saint, a lover before the end of the year. The way to +obtain this is to throw a pin into the fountain, and to drink a little +of the water. It is not impossible, after this, that a prince of Babylon +will make his appearance. Every year, however, this superstition is +wearing out, and probably will soon be forgotten altogether. + +The sun shone, and, the day being mild, we lingered for some time +amongst these extensive ruins, climbing and exploring and looking down +caverns and ravines in the rocks, beneath one of which rolls a dark +stream, doubtless the source of those waters which were formerly +directed into the arena to serve the Naumachia. There is something +fearful in knowing that beneath your feet, as you wander in these ruined +places, exist gulphs of darkness, into which a false step amongst +treacherous bushes and weeds might precipitate the unwary. We were +driven from both the beauties and dangers of the spot by the beginning +of a shower, and determined on making a retreat to St. Eutrope, whose +enormous tower beckoned us from the hill above. We had not, however, +gone many steps when the storm came down with all the impatient fury of +_French rain_, and we were glad to take shelter in a wood-shed, at a +house which we should have endeavoured to visit had no accident +introduced us to its premises. + +This house, now entirely modern, belongs to a farmer, and is called _The +Coteau_; in the garden is an _oyster bank_ of some extent, which is +looked upon as one of several proofs that the sea once bathed the walls +of Saintes; and beneath the building is a subterranean range, formerly +communicating with the amphitheatre, which is distant the length of +several fields from the house. As accidents might occur in consequence +of the great extent and ruined state of the galleries and arches of this +singular building, the proprietor has lately closed up the entrance, and +there is now no possibility of exploring; but the wonders of this place +have been described by different writers who have occupied themselves +with the antiquities of Saintes, of which there is so much to be said +and seen that it is almost a dangerous subject to touch upon. Certainly +it is a town which presents a wide field of enquiry and interest to +archaeologists, and as it now lies in the highway to Bordeaux, the +curious may be attracted to its walls, and will be rewarded by their +visit. + +Then, perchance, may be fitly described by a Gally Knight, the +Camp _de Cesar_, the _Terrier de Toulon_, the _Tour de Pyrelonge_, +the Aqueduct of _Font-Giraud_, the Cavern of _Ouaye-a-Metau_, the +_Grand-Font-du-Douhet_, the _Font-Morillon_, the _Plantes des +Neuf-puits_, all works of the Gauls and Romans, of which, wells +and arches, and baths and subterranean temples, still excite the +astonishment, not only of the peasants who are constantly stumbling on +their remains, but of the antiquary who ventures into the long galleries +and ruined chambers which speak to him of the glories of a people who +once swayed the country they rendered powerful and beautiful by their +architecture, the traces of which time itself cannot entirely sweep +away. + +We found, on visiting St. Eutrope on our return, that little interest +attaches to the church itself, scarcely any part of its interior having +been spared by the numerous hostilities which it has had to undergo; +some parts of the exterior are, however, beautiful, and the crypt lost +none of its interest on a second view. It is, after that of Chartres, +the most perfect and the most extraordinary in France, and formerly +extended as far again as at present. The fine bold circular arches, of +different sizes and heights; the massive cylindrical pillars, the rich +sharp capitals, and _still fresh_ gothic character of the cornices, +astonish the beholder; it is undergoing restoration in parts, which +appears sufficiently judicious. So solemn and silent was the sacristan +who conducted us over this subterranean church, that we imagined for +some time he was dumb, till we were undeceived on his expressing his +pleasure at the small donation we bestowed on him for his trouble; as it +is somewhat difficult, at the present day, in France, to meet the +exalted expectations of the numerous guides who exhibit to English +travellers the lions of their towns, we were amused at the satisfaction +betrayed by our silent cicerone. + +The once beautiful church of Notre Dame, or Ste. Marie, serves now as +the stables of the garrison, and all its fine remains are hidden from +public view; parts of its exterior still attract the eye, and make one +regret that it has fallen into such utter decay. It was once covered +with statues of great beauty, some of which remain; but that of Geoffrey +Martel, its founder, is destroyed, with a host of others, once its +pride; enough, however, is to be seen which is well worthy of attention; +but, from its present occupation, we did not do more than attempt to +find it out in its degradation. The cells of the nuns are now occupied +by dragoons. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + FRERE CHRETIEN--UTILITY OF CUSTOM-HOUSE SEARCH--BOLD + VOYAGER--PAUILLAC--BLAYE--THE GIRONDE--TALBOT--VINES--THE + LANDES--PHANTOM OF KING ARTHUR--THE WITCH-FINDER--THE + LANDES--WRECKERS. + + +OUR destination was now the Gironde, and we found our only plan was to +set out in the middle of the night for Mortagne, where the steam-boat to +Bordeaux from Royan touched for passengers. We accordingly secured our +places in the _coupe_, and, having been quite punctual to the hour of +twelve, we expected to begin our journey. At the appointed time, +however, neither horses nor _conducteur_ were to be found, and the +diligence remained for a full hour beneath the trees of the _cours_, +filled with its impatient passengers, without any appearance of moving. +The pause was enlivened by a violent altercation between a passenger on +the roof and the proprietor, which caused a great encounter of tongues, +so furious that we dreaded that blows must ensue, when we heard the +vociferous individual who had usurped somebody's place, favoured by the +darkness, kicking and resisting as he was dragged from his exalted +station. However, as is almost always the case in France, the moment the +culprit--who was loud in his threats of vengeance when too far off to +execute them--descended to earth, and had an opportunity of making them +good, he became mute and humble, and made his escape at once, amidst the +jeers of those who had also threatened to annihilate him as soon as he +was within their reach. This scene, taking place at midnight, beneath +the high trees of the great avenue in the gloomy ruined town of Saintes, +was sufficiently unpleasant, as there seemed less and less chance of our +ever stirring from the spot, and a great probability of our arriving, at +any rate, too late for the steamer at Mortagne; but a priest, who was +our companion, and who seemed to have previously filled up the lonely +hours of evening by potations, seemed greatly to enjoy the bustle, till +a remark of mine, on the unsuitableness of the scene to one of his +order, acted like magic on him, and he ceased the _swearing_ and +encouraging exclamations in which he had before indulged, and became as +meek and demure as he probably passed for, being amongst those whose +eyes he knew to be on him. He was of the order of Christian Brothers: a +community by no means remarkable for the edification of their manners +and demeanour. + +It is customary with _conducteurs_, when very much behind their time, +to regain it by furious driving; and this being the case in our +instance, we got to the inn at Mortagne in time, the boat being, as it +happened, later than usual. In the midst of the rain we were obliged to +obey the custom-house summons to produce our keys, in order that our +trunks might be inspected, and if _bales of cotton_ should be found +amongst our caps and gowns, we might suffer according to our offence +against the laws. After much uncording and dashing and knocking about of +baggage, the person who officiated proceeded to drag open the suspected +packages rather unceremoniously. An exclamation, which one of our party +made in English, seemed to put an end, however, to the search, for, +looking up and bowing, he said, "Oh, English ladies,--that's enough!" +Having escaped this _necessary_ ceremony, we had to walk about half a +mile in the mud and rain to the pier, though there was no sort of reason +why the coach should not have taken us all with our goods to the shore; +except, indeed, that by so convenient an arrangement, the demands of a +whole host of porters would have been evaded. + +We were huddled into a clumsy boat, some standing and some sitting on +the wet seats, and paddled off to the steamer which stood off; our +baggage strewn on the pier, to be transported hereafter, if the captain +chose to wait. And in this unpleasing state of uncertainty, at six +o'clock in the morning, in a pouring rain, we were put on board the +vessel which was to transport us to Bordeaux. + +In spite, however, of the wondrous confusion which made it probable that +accidents of all kinds would ensue, nothing tragical happened, and +nothing was lost. One little stout man, in a long cloak, attached +himself to our side, not so much with a view of affording us _his_ +protection, as to obtain it at our hands. He looked very pale and cold; +and as he trudged along in the mud, addressed me frequently, in +tremulous tones, requesting to know my opinion as to the state of _the +ocean_; whether I did not fear that it would be very rough and very +dangerous, confessing that he felt pretty sure such would be the case, +though he had never seen the sea before, and hoping I would not be +alarmed. I assured him I had no fears on that head, as, in the first +place, wide as the expanse before us appeared, it was not the _sea_, but +the _river_, several leagues from its _embouchure_; next, that it was as +calm as a mill-pond, without a breath of wind to ruffle its thick yellow +waters. "Helas!" said he, "you do not seem to care; but perhaps you have +no baggage as I have, otherwise you would feel great uneasiness." + +I found him afterwards on board almost crying after his _effets_, which +consisted of a hat-box, carpet-bag, and little bundle, all of which +were safely produced. When we had proceeded about an hour, he came +strutting up to us, and, with a patronizing air, exclaimed, "There, you +see, there is no reason to be alarmed; I told you so." I gratified him +exceedingly by agreeing that he was perfectly right. + +The Gironde is, indeed, at this part, like the sea: the opposite shores +cannot be distinguished, so broad and fine is the expanse; and the +exceedingly ugly colour of the water is, at first, forgotten in the +magnitude of the space which surrounds the voyager. + +But that we had resolved to make ourselves acquainted with the Roman +city of Saintes, we should have followed the usual course, and, on +leaving Rochefort, proceeded across the country to Royan, once an +insignificant village, now a rather important bathing-place. By this +means the whole of the banks of the Gironde may be seen; and it is a +charming voyage. + +The first object of interest is the famous Tour de Corduan, built on a +bank of rocks, and placed at the entrance of the river, with its +revolving light to warn mariners of their position. It was originally +constructed in 1548, by the celebrated engineer, Louis de Foix, whose +works at Bayonne have rendered his name illustrious. Pauillac is the +_chef-lieu_ of the last canton of Haut-Medoc, and its port being good, +many vessels, which cannot reach so high as Bordeaux, stop here, and +discharge their cargo. Here grow the wines, called Chateau Lafitte, and +Chateau Latour. There is nothing very remarkable in the appearance of +the town but a long pier, of which many of our passengers took advantage +to land, and our steward to go to market, returning with a store of +eatables, for which every one seemed quite ready. The weather had now +cleared, and the aspect of things was, consequently, much brightened; +and, as we approached Blaye, the skies were fine, and the air fresh and +agreeable. + +A group of islands, called _Les Isles de Cazau_, rises from the waters; +and on one of them appears the singularly-shaped tower of Blaye, so like +a _pate de Perigord_, that it is impossible, on looking at it, not to +think of Charlemagne, or his nephew, the famous paladin, Rolando, who +should be the presiding genii of the scene. + +All along the left bank of the river extend, in this direction, the +far-famed plains of Medoc--once the haunt of wolves and wild boars, now +covered with the vines renowned throughout Europe. + +The first place, after Mortagne--where once stood the castle of that +Jeanne de Vendome who falsely accused Jacques Coeur--is Pauillac, a town +of some commercial importance; and near is an island, called Patiras, +formerly the abode of a pirate, called Monstri, whose depredations were +so extensive that the parliament of Bordeaux was obliged to send a +considerable naval force to put him down. But Monstri was not the only +depredator who found the Gironde a fitting theatre for his piracy. +Amongst all that _coquinaille_,--as Mezeray designates the notorious +Free Companies who, after their services were no longer required to +drive the English from the recovered realm of Charles VII., exercised +their cruelties and indulged their robber-propensities on the people of +France, wherever they came,--was a knight and a noble, who may serve as +a type of those of his time, Roderigue de Villandras, known as _Le +Mechant Roderigue_; together with Antoine de Chabannes, Lord of +Dammartin, the Batard de Bourbon, and others; Villandras led a troop of +those terrible men, who boasted of the name of _Ecorcheurs_. It was true +that, in the lawless period when the destitute _Roi de Bourges_ had +neither money nor power, they had done great service to his cause--as a +troop of trained wolves might have done--ravaging and destroying all +they came near; but the end once accomplished, the great desire of all +lovers of order was to get rid of the scourge which necessity had +obliged the king to endure so long. To such a pitch of insolence had +these leaders arrived, that, not content with despoiling every person +they met, Villandras had, at last, the effrontery to attack and pillage +the baggage of the king himself, and to maltreat his people. Enraged at +finding the vexations of which his suffering subjects had so long +bitterly complained, come home to himself, personally, Charles resolved +on vigorous measures, and gave instant command that these companies +should be pursued and hunted from society: that every town and village +should take up arms against them, and, as for Chabannes, Roderigue, +&c., they were banished from the kingdom. Roderigue, however, retired, +with a chosen band, to the Garonne, and there, entrenching himself in +one of the islands, carried on the trade of a pirate, destroying the +country on each side of the river, and murdering the inhabitants without +mercy. + +This state of things lasted for some time: the labouring people and +proprietors, unable to resist these incursions, left their land in +despair, and fled for protection into the towns: the consequence of +which was, that plague and famine ensued, and their miserable country +became a prey to a new species of wretchedness. + +In less than six weeks, fifty thousand people died in Paris alone, until +the city became so emptied of inhabitants that not more than three +persons were left to each street. It is recorded that famished wolves +came down upon the great capital, and prowled about the streets as if +they had been in a forest, devouring the bodies scattered about +unburied, and attacking the few living creatures in this great desert. + +Meantime, the revolt of the disaffected lords, who composed what was +called the Praguerie, gave new employment to all the _mauvais sujets_ of +the kingdom, and Chabannes and Villandras did not neglect so fine an +opportunity of committing additional outrages; and, for a time, they +carried their terrors throughout Poitou and Champagne. Being taken in +arms, the fearful Batard de Bourbon met his deserved fate by being sewn +in a sack and thrown into the river; but Villandras escaped the justice +of the king, in consideration of services required of him and his band +of robbers; and De Chabannes was reinstated in the favour of Charles, +being too powerful and dangerous to offend. + +One is not surprised to be told that the fortress of Blaye is called _Le +Pate_: it is, doubtless, of great strength and importance, but not +imposing, in consequence of its want of height, and its flat, crushed +appearance on a marshy island. The exterior walls appear very ancient, +but all the centre of the tower is fitted up with modern buildings, +having common-looking roofs, quite destroying all picturesque effect. + +The steamer made the entire tour of the island; so that we saw the fort +on every side, and presently came in full view of the town and citadel +of Blaye, partly on a height and partly on a level with the river. No +part of it offers any beauty; nor does it possess features of majesty +and grandeur, though its recollections cannot fail to excite interest. +The Duchess of Berry must have found her sojourn in this desolate castle +dismal enough: it is an excellent place for a prison; and was, formerly, +no doubt of the utmost importance to Charlemagne, as it probably +continues to be to this day to the ruling powers. The body of Rolando, +after the fatal day when + + "Charlemagne and all his peerage fell + At Fontarabia," + +was brought here; and, several centuries afterwards, his tomb was +removed to the church of St. Seurin, at Bordeaux. King Cherebert, +grandson of Clovis, has also his tomb on this rock; but no remains of +it, I believe, are now shown. Our troops, in 1814, could tell of the +obstinate resistance of the citadel, and were well able to measure its +strength. + +The banks of the river are, from hence, covered with vines, and are +higher and more rocky. Numerous dwellings cut in the rocky face of the +hills remind one of the same appearance on the borders of the Loire; but +in no other respect can the clay-coloured river claim resemblance with +that crystal though sand-encumbered stream. Several bold rocks diversify +the prospect here,--one called the Roque-de-Tau, and another the +Pain-de-Sucre. + +The space where the two rivers, Dordogne and Garonne, meet, and falling +together into one, form the Gironde, is called _L'Entre-Deux-Mers_; and +the shore the Bec d'Ambez. This part is sometimes dangerous; and, I dare +say, our timid fellow-voyager felt a little nervous; but nothing +happened to our boat, as we fell quietly into the Garonne, leaving the +sister river, and its boasted Pont de Cubzac,--the object sought by the +spy-glasses of all on board,--in the distance. + +We were now passing along between the shores of the famous river +Garonne--always the scene of contentions, from its importance, and +particularly so during the long wars between France and England in the +fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Although but few of the castles +whose turrets once frowned along the hills above the waters now remain, +even in ruins, yet, in those days, they were nearly as numerous as the +trees which have now taken their place. Many a time has the banner of +the Black Prince been displayed on the waves of this river, and been +saluted or attacked according as he was victor or besieger. Every inch +of land and water, from the Tour de Corduan to the walls of Bordeaux, +and, indeed, to Agen, has been disputed by struggling thousands, from +the time of Elionore of Guienne to the Duke of Wellington! But it was at +the time when the star of France emerged from its dark clouds, and shone +above the head of Charles VII., that the French shook off the foreign +yoke which had so long kept from them this--one of the finest rivers in +their realms. + +Charles VII., after having despoiled his friends and reduced his +enemies, was endeavouring to shut out from his memory the visions of the +betrayed heroine of Orleans and the persecuted merchant of Bourges, the +lost Agnes Sorel and the turbulent and revolted Dauphin; and had retired +to his castle of pleasure at Mehun-sur-Yevre, where he could best +conceal from prying eyes the idle occupations and degrading enjoyments +which filled the time of the hero _of other's swords_. He had just +concluded a peace with Savoy, and had rejected, as vexatious, the +petitions of his subjects of Gascony, who were writhing under the +exactions of his ministers. He felt that all was now at his feet; and he +would not permit his loved ease and quiet to be disturbed by appeals to +his justice and humanity. The people of Guienne, therefore, saw that it +was in vain that they had submitted, and had consented to give up the +English rule, to which they had been so long accustomed, and under which +they had flourished. Several of the higher families allied with that +country, had endured the alienation with uneasiness. Amongst others, +Pierre de Montferrant, who bore the singular title of Souldich de +l'Estrade, or de la Trau, had married a natural daughter of the Duke of +Bedford: he had been forced to capitulate when taken prisoner at Blaye; +but he preserved his ancient attachment to England; and, taking +advantage of the discontent which prevailed, he sent messages to Talbot, +Earl of Shrewsbury, recommending him to attempt the re-conquest of the +Bordelais, which promised to be an easy prize. + +The lords of Candale and l'Esparre confirmed his statements, in an +interview with the earl, in London, where they had remained after the +treaty. They assured him that, if the English landed a small force at +Bordeaux, they would certainly be joined by the disaffected, and had +little to contend with; for Charles had withdrawn most of his troops, to +send them against Savoy, and, it was thought, against the Dauphin +himself. This was followed by the announcement that the powerful lords +of Rosan, Gaillard de Durfort, Jean de la Linde, and the Sire de +Langlade, with many other gentlemen of the country, had proclaimed their +intention of rising as soon as the English flag should be displayed on +the Garonne. The Archbishop of Bordeaux and the Bishop of Oleron had +entered into the plot; for there is proof that they had solicited new +favours from Henry VI. before the return of the English to Guienne. + +A favourable turn in the affairs of Henry seemed to render the moment +propitious; and Marguerite d'Anjou seized the occasion of success +against her opponents, to despatch Talbot, as the lieutenant of the king +in Aquitaine, with an army of between seven and eight thousand men, with +ample powers to pardon all offences committed against England. The aged +chief, favoured by the wind and weather, arrived at Bordeaux, and was +introduced into the city, by the citizens, before the soldiers of +Charles VII. had even dreamed of his approach. The seneschal, the +under-mayor, and almost all the French garrison, were instantly +surprised and taken prisoners. + +Talbot, delighted at his prompt success, roused all his old energy, and, +in an incredibly short space of time, had retaken all the places which +had been lost to the English, in the preceding year, in the Bordelais, +the Agenois, and the Bazadois. Eighty vessels arrived with provisions +from England, and all went well with the conquerors. The French who held +out were obliged to retire to their ancient frontiers, and do their +utmost to defend the remainder of Guienne against the fortunate +invaders. + +Meantime, the King of France was dreaming away his life, as he had +formerly done, while the English were lords of his kingdom; but the news +of their return woke him from his slumbers, and, hurrying to Lusignan, +and assembling his forces in haste, he set forth in his character of +warrior, and paused not till he had reached the Dordogne. The two famous +brothers Bureau brought up their sappers and miners, and their +tremendous artillery; nobles and knights flocked to his standard, and +Talbot found that the foe he held in utter contempt, presented an aspect +of resolve worthy of his attention. The old general was about to hear +mass when it was falsely announced to him that a party of his people had +routed the French, who had abandoned their park of artillery, before +Chatillon en Perigord. He started up, and exclaimed, as he interrupted +the ceremony, "I swear that I will never hear mass again till I have +swept away the French from before me." So saying, he rushed to arms, +called out his troops, and marched forth with impetuosity, uttering his +war-cry, "Talbot! Saint George!" + +Fatal was his haste, and fatal was the misrepresentation made to him; in +the battle that ensued the gallant veteran and his son were slain, with +upwards of four thousand men; the French were too much harassed to +pursue their victory; but, finding the body of Talbot amongst the heaps +of dead, it was proclaimed to France that their most dreaded enemy was +no more. + + "Talbot is slain!--the Frenchman's only scourge; + Their kingdom's terror, and black Nemesis!" + + "Whose life was England's glory--Gallia's wonder." + +The face of things was now essentially changed; all the influences were +turned to the advantage of 'Charles the Victorious.' One after another +the towns and fortresses on the Garonne, Blancafort, Saint Macaire, +Langon, Villandras, Cadillac, were forced to surrender. And all the +country "_between the two seas_" was in the hands of the French. The +Gironde was filled with vessels sent to the aid of France by Castile, +Burgundy, Bretagne, and all the province of Poitou. On the other hand, +the fleet of England and the Bourdelaise were at anchor half a league +below Bordeaux, and formidable did both appear. + +The men of Bordeaux beginning to fear that all was lost, had already +proposed a surrender, on condition of free pardon; but the answer of +Charles had not been favourable; he consented to receive all of English +birth to ransom, but those of his own subjects he insisted should be +left to his mercy. While they paused, reflecting upon the amount of +mercy they might expect, the English, careful only of their own weal, +decided for them, and agreed to the terms, leaving the unfortunate +Gascons, their companions in arms, to their fate. + +Charles began by putting to death Gaillardet, the brave commander of +Cadillac; whom he condemned as a rebel, although he had merely done his +duty in obeying the head of a house which his ancestors had been +accustomed to serve for three centuries. + +The fevers of Autumn had now begun to appear; several of the generals of +the French king had fallen victims to it; and as Bordeaux still held out +and refused to surrender without certain concessions, dictated by Le +Camus, who refused to sacrifice the Gascons under his command, Charles +was obliged to listen to his representations. He agreed to pardon the +citizens and their adherents, reserving twenty of the most guilty, whose +estates were confiscated, and they banished for ever from the kingdom. + +It was on the 19th of October, 1453, that the City of Bordeaux opened +its gates to Charles _the Well-Served_, and the discomfited English +sailed mournfully away from its walls, never to return as its masters. + +All the vines along the shores of the Garonne are famous. Cantemerle, +Sauves, Cantenac, and the mighty monarch, Chateau Margaux; Ludon, +Parampuire, and Blanquefort; St. Louis de Montferrant, and Bassens. +These renowned vineyards cover the country with riches; but fever reigns +here triumphant throughout the year, and the coast denies its advantages +to any but vine-growers. + +M. de Peyronnet, the ex-minister, has a chateau in a pretty situation on +the river; but whether this particular site is unhealthy we did not +hear. + +From the Tour de Cordouan to the Port of Bordeaux, extending far over +the wide and marshy country, which spreads out its sandy and unhealthy +plains towards Bayonne, superstition formerly held her head-quarters; +and though, within a few years, belief in the supernatural has lost its +force, the dreams and fancies of the dark ages are not quite effaced. +There is hardly any extravagance credited by the inhabitants of +Brittany, which has not been held as an article of faith in the Landes, +and cast its influence over the departments bordering on the Pyrenees. + +There is an idea, not altogether worn out, that certain families are +under a spell, and subject to strange visitations; they are supposed to +be recognized by their heavy, sullen air, and their aversion to society +in general: these are called _Accus_, and are as much avoided as +possible, as they are suspected of witchcraft and other mal-practices; +they are said to have too much experience in the nocturnal amusements +of those mysterious beings called Loups-garoux, so generally known and +dreaded throughout France and Germany. + +That the evil one delights in this part of the country is not to be +questioned; and there may be some risk in passing along the river +towards nightfall, because the fiend and his company are apt to haunt +those meadows closest to the waters, and there they may be occasionally +seen dancing in circles, where their hoofs spoil the grass, which +refuses to grow again where once their steps have been. Perhaps the +rapidity of the steam-boat may now prevent their being so often +perceived; or, indeed, its introduction may have offended, and chased +away, the _mesnie_ of the fiend altogether. + +Between the Dordogne and the Garonne, l'Entre-deux-Mers, it is generally +believed that a male child who has never known his father, as well as a +_fifth_ son, have the power to cure certain maladies by the touch. And +it is in these parts that the once famous Dragon of Bordeaux used +principally to sojourn, much to the terror of the surrounding +neighbourhood. There is scarcely any malignant spirit, from a +_loup-garou_ to _an ague_, which cannot be found in the deserts of +Aquitaine. + +Often do the peasants of Medoc hear in the air, sometimes in mid-day, +sometimes in the clear nights of summer, the horns and cries of the +phantom hunter, Arthur and his men. If he is, indeed, the same King +Arthur, whose fame is enshrined in the legends of Wales and Brittany, +he must have been a prince with even a more extended domain than that of +Henry, the husband of Queen Elionore, for he carries on his chace on the +banks of the Gave of Pau, and still further into the Pyrenees. He was a +very excellent and pious prince, valiant and courteous; but he had one +great fault, an inordinate love of hunting, which in the end proved his +bane. For once, on the occasion of some solemn fete, while he was in the +church assisting at the mass, some mischievous friend brought him word, +that a fine wild boar had just appeared at a very short distance from +the holy precincts. In a moment, his respect for religion, his reverence +for the sacred ceremony in which he was engaged, all were put to flight; +he uttered a joyous shout, seized his spear, and rushed forth to the +sport. He enjoyed a most animated hunt, but-- + + "So comes the reck'ning when the banquet's o'er,-- + A dreadful reck'ning--and men smile no more!" + +From that day he _hunted eternally_ and _in vain_!--for ever is he +traversing the vast field of air, urging on his steed, hallowing to his +hounds, sounding his horn, and madly rushing over mountain and plain, +reflected in the sky; but he has never yet, nor ever will attain the +object of his pursuit! + +There are certain spots in the Landes where trees of strange appearance +grow, which may be recognised as those under which the evil one +distributes poison to his human friends, to dispense to those who have +fallen under their displeasure: the districts where these meetings take +place are fortunately known and avoided, but to such a height had grown +the daring of the friends of Satan at one time, that the King of +France,--no other than Henry the Fourth (!)--under the ministry of Sully +(!) sent persons into these climes to root out the evil. The famous +_witch-finder_, Pierre de Lancre, has recorded his successes in this +particular. + +"The King," says he, "being informed that his country of Labourt was +greatly infested with sorcerers, gave commission to a president and a +counsellor of the court of parliament of Bordeaux, to seek out the crime +of sorcery in the said country, about the year 1609. + +"This commission was entrusted to the Sieur Despagnet and I: we +dedicated four months to the search, during which happened an infinity +of _unknown things, strange, and out of all belief_, of which books +written on the subject have never spoken: such for instance, as _that +the devil came and held his meetings at the gates of Bordeaux, and in +the quarter of the Palais Gallien_, which _fact_ was declared at his +execution by Isaac Dugueyran, a notable sorcerer, _who was put to death_ +in 1609. It appears to me that it will be extremely useful, nay +necessary, to France and the whole of Christendom, to have this account +in writing for many reasons. + +"All this must convince the most obstinate, stupid, blind, and +_ignorant_, that there is no longer a doubt that sorcery exists, and +that the devil can transport sorcerers really and corporally to his +sabbath: and that there is no longer any excuse for disputing on the +subject, for all nations are agreed concerning the truth, aided by +_ocular_ demonstration, permitted to an impartial judge and good +Christian. _Too much mildness is shown in France towards sorcerers:_ all +good judges should in future resolve to punish with death all such as +have been convicted of attending the devil's assemblies, even if no harm +has immediately resulted therefrom: for to such an extent has witchcraft +spread that it has passed the frontier and reached the city of Bayonne, +which is cruelly afflicted in consequence. Satan having made great +advances and spread his sabbaths over an infinity of places in our +deserts and Landes of Bordeaux."[11] + +[Footnote 11: This part of the world seemed always to be looked upon as +the head quarters of sorcery; for in the Chronicles of Bordeaux we find, +in the year 1435, the following notice:--"Les environs de Bordeaux sont +_fort travaillez_ par les sorciers et empoisonneurs, dont aucuns furent +executes a mort et brule tous vifs."] + +In consequence of the representations of this righteous judge, _eight +hundred victims_ were condemned to the flames for this pretended crime: +and this, incredible as it may appear, by command of Le Bon Henri and +his Protestant minister, Sully! At the very period, too, permission was +refused to the unfortunate Moors, then driven by bigotry from Spain, to +establish themselves in the Landes, where their industry and +perseverance would soon have converted the barren waste into a fertile +and smiling country, instead of remaining for centuries an unwholesome +marsh. + +Neglected and uncultivated as this extended country has long been--only +_now_, in fact, assuming an aspect of improvement--it is not surprising +that superstition has lingered longer amongst its uneducated people than +with their more fortunate neighbours. Within ten years new roads have +been made, new buildings erected, and a rail-road is projected across +the Landes from Bordeaux to Bayonne: it may, therefore, be now expected +that the last vestige of idle belief in witches and demons will shortly +disappear; but, in the meantime, much of such weakness is lingering +still. For instance, the Landais believe that in certain maladies the +physician has no power, and that recourse must be had, for relief, to +certain gifted persons, who will propitiate the evil spirit who caused +the ill. They attribute great virtue to what they call _les Veyrines_, +namely, narrow openings in the thickness of the pillars of a church: +persons affected with rheumatic diseases, have only to pass through +these narrow spaces, repeating at the time certain prayers, having +previously made the circuit of the pillar nine times. His head is first +inserted, and the rest of his body is pushed through by his friends. +These practices are, in spite of the exertions of the clergy, said to be +still carried on in secret. + +In the month of May they strew the street before their houses with +reeds, on fete days, and there they frequently pass their evenings, +sitting in groups, and telling to each other superstitious stories, +which are eagerly listened to, and thus handed down from father to son. + +The _orfraie_ and the screech-owl are looked upon with terror in the +Landes: their approach to any dwelling bodes evil in all forms: the dead +quit their tombs at night and flit about in the fens, and covered with +their white shrouds come wandering into the villages, nor will they quit +them till the prayers and alms of their friends have calmed their +perturbed spirits. + +The various tribes of the Landes, form, as it were, in the midst of +France, a separate people, from their habits and customs: they are +called, according to their locality, Bouges, Parants, Mazansins, +Couziots, or Lanusquets: they are generally a meagre race, and subject +to nervous affections; taking little nourishment, and living a life of +privation and fatigue. Obliged to labour for their support, like most +people in the departments of the Pyrenees, and to dispose of the +products of their industry, they have usually fixed places of repose; +each peasant drives his cart drawn by two oxen, and carries with him the +food for those patient animals, who are the very picture of endurance. +His own food is generally coarse, ill-leavened bread, very hardly baked, +and made of coarse maize, or rye-flour, which he sometimes relishes +with _sardines_ of Galicia. He gives his oxen a preparation of dried +linseed from which the oil has been extracted, and which he has made +into flour, and he then lets them loose on the Landes for a time, while +he snatches a hasty sleep, soon interrupted to resume his journey. The +dwellings of these people are sufficiently wretched: low, damp, and +exposed to both the heat and cold by the rude manner in which they are +constructed; a fire is kept in the centre of the principal room, from +which small closets open: they sleep in general under two _feather +beds_, in a close, unwholesome air, many in the same room. Still their +domestic arrangements seem a degree better than those of the Bretons, +and their dirt does not appear so great, bad as it must necessarily be. + +The dress of the men is a large, heavy, brown stuff cloak, or a long +jacket of sheepskin, with the fur outwards; to which, when gaiters of +the same are added, there is little difference between them and the +animals they tend: a very small _berret_, the cap of the country, covers +merely the top of their heads, and is but of little use in sheltering +them in rainy weather. The women wear large round hats with great wings, +adorned with black ribbon, and sometimes with a herb, which they call +Immortelle de Mer;[12] the young girls frequently, however, prefer a +small linen cap, the wings of which are crossed over the top of the +head. + +[Footnote 12: See for these particulars, Athanasie Maritime.--_Du +Mege_.] + +Shepherds are almost always clothed in sheepskins, and in winter they +wear over this a white woollen cloak with a very pointed hood. These are +the people who make their appearance on stilts, called _Xicanques_, and +traverse the Landes with their flocks, crossing streams of several feet +deep, and striding along like flying giants. They have always a long +pole, with a seat affixed, and a gun slung at their backs, to defend +them from the attack of wolves. Monotonous enough must be the lives of +these poor people, for months together, alone, in a solitary waste, +where not a tree can grow, with nothing but a wide extent of marshy land +around, and only their sheep and dogs as companions; but they are +accustomed to it from infancy, and probably are comparatively insensible +to their hardships, at least it is so to be hoped. Seated on his +elevated seat, the shepherd of the Landes occupies himself in knitting +or spinning, having a contrivance for the latter peculiar to this part +of the country. Their appearance, thus occupied, is most singular and +startling. + +A dignitary of Bordeaux is said once to have prepared a fete to an +Infanta of Spain, the destined bride of a French prince, in the Landes; +in which he engaged a party of these mounted shepherds, dressed in +skins, and covered with their white mantles and hoods, to figure, +accompanied by a band of music, and passing under triumphal arches +formed of garlands of flowers: a strange scene in such a desert, but +scarcely so imposing to a stranger as the unexpected apparition of these +beings in the midst of their native desolation. + +The Landais seldom live to an advanced age: they marry early, are very +jealous, and are said to enjoy but little of the domestic happiness +attributed to the poor as a possession; they are accused of being +indifferent to their families, and of taking more care of their flocks +and herds than of their relations: they are docile and obedient to +authority; honest, and neither revengeful nor deceitful. + +Whether from affection or habit, they show great sensibility on the +death of neighbours or friends. The women cover their heads, in the +funeral procession, with black veils or aprons, and the men with the +pointed hood and cloak. During the whole year, after the decease of a +father or mother, all the kitchen utensils _are covered with a veil_, +and _placed in an opposite direction to that in which they stood +before_; so that every time anything is wanted the memory of the dead is +revived. + +The Landais, on the sea-coast, are, like the Cornish people, reproached, +perhaps falsely, with being _wreckers_; and their cry of "Avarech! +Avarech!" is said to be the signal of inhumanity and plunder. + +Their marriages are attended with somewhat singular ceremonies, and +their method of making love is equally strange: after church, on a fete +day, a number of young people, of both sexes, dance together to a +monotouous tune, while others sit round in a circle on their heels, +watching them. After dancing a little time, a pair will detach +themselves from the rest, squeeze each other's hand, give a few glances, +and then whisper together, striking each other at the same time; after +which they go to their relations, and say they _are agreed_, and wish to +marry: the priest and notary are called for, the parents consent, and +the day is at once fixed. + +On the appointed day, the _Nobi_ (future husband) collects his friends, +and goes to the bride's house, where he knocks; the father, or some near +relation, opens to him, holding by the hand an _old woman_, whom he +presents: she is rejected by the bridegroom, who demands her who was +promised. She then comes forward with a modest air, and gives her lover +a flower; who, in exchange, presents her with a belt, which he puts on +himself. This is very like the customs in Brittany, where scenes of the +kind always precede weddings. + +When the bride comes to her husband's house, she finds at the door a +broom; or, if he takes possession of her's, a ploughshare is placed +there: both allegorical of their duties. The distaff of the bride is +carried by an old woman throughout the ceremonies. + +The Landais, altogether, both as to habits, manners, and general +appearance, form a singular feature in the aspect of this part of +France. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + PORTS--DIVONA--BORDEAUX--QUINCONCES--ALLEES--FIRST + IMPRESSION--CHARTRONS--BAHUTIER--BACALAN--QUAYS--WHITE + GUIDE--S^{TE} CROIX--ST. MICHEL--ST. ANDRE--PRETTY FIGURE--PRETTY + WOMEN--PALAIS GALLIEN--BLACK PRINCE'S SON EDWARD. + + +TAVERNIER has said, in speaking of the most celebrated ports, "three +only can enter into comparison, one with the other, for their beauty of +situation and their _form of a rainbow_, viz., Constantinople, Goa, and +Bordeaux." The poet, Chapelle, thus names this celebrated city:-- + + Nous vimes au milieu des eaux + Devant nous paraitre Bordeaux, + Dont le port en croissant resserre + Plus de barques et de vaisseaux + Qu'aucun autre port de la terre. + +The commendatory address to his native city, by the poet, Ausonius, is +often quoted; and has been finely rendered by M. Jouannet, whom I +venture to translate. + + I was to blame; my silence far too long + Has done thy fame, my noble country, wrong: + + Thou, Bacchus-loved, whose gifts are great and high, + Thy gen'rous sons, thy senate, and thy sky, + Thy genius and thy grace shall Mem'ry well + Above all cities, to thy glory, tell. + And shall I coldly from thy arms remove, + Blush for my birth-place, and disown my love? + As tho' thy son, in Scythian climes forlorn, + Beneath the Bear with all its snows was born. + No, thy Ausonius, Bordeaux! hails thee yet; + Nor, as his cradle, can thy claims forget. + Dear to the gods thou art, who freely gave + Their blessings to thy meads, thy clime, thy wave: + Gave thee thy flow'rs that bloom the whole year through, + Thy hills of shade, thy prospects ever new, + Thy verdant fields, where Winter shuns to be, + And thy swift river, rival of the sea. + + Shall I describe thy mighty walls revered,-- + Thy ramparts, by the god of battle feared,-- + Thy gates,--thy towers, whose frowning crests assay + Amidst the clouds towards Heaven to force a way? + How well I love thy beauties to behold, + Thy noble monuments, thy mansions bold, + Thy simple porticos, thy perfect plan, + Thy squares symmetrical: their space, their span. + And that proud port which Neptune's lib'ral hand + Bade from thy startled walls its arms expand, + And show the way to Fortune! Twice each day + Bringing his floods all crown'd with glittering spray, + And foaming from the oar, while, gleaming white, + A host of vessels gaily sweep in sight. + +It would appear by this description, that Bordeaux was, under its Roman +masters, a very magnificent city; the famous _Divona_, the beneficent +fountain, so celebrated by Ausonius, has left no trace of its existence, +and has employed the learned long to account for its disappearance. +Probably it was from some plan of Roman Bordeaux, that the present new +town was built; for the above lines might almost describe it as it now +stands: certainly, except the gigantic towers, the old city has no claim +to praise for wide streets, fine houses, porticos, or symmetrical +squares; probably, the architects of the Middle Ages destroyed its +_perfect plan_, and swept away most of the beauties and grandeur which +inspired the muse of the classic minstrel. + +Like most pompous descriptions, this was, perhaps, overdrawn at the time +as much as, it appeared to me, the accounts of modern travellers have +exaggerated the effect of a first arrival by water at Bordeaux. + +As Bordeaux is approached, the banks on one side become more +picturesque, and at Lormont, where was once an extensive monastery, the +scenery is fine: its promise is, however, forgotten by degrees, and I +was surprised not to see any fine houses on the banks, as I had +understood was the case. The few that are seen have a slovenly, +neglected appearance, by no means announcing the splendours and riches +of the great mercantile city we had now nearly reached. Paltry +wine-houses, with shabby gardens, border the river, and flat meadows and +reclaimed marshes give a meagre effect to the whole scene. + +Mast after mast now, however, began to appear, and in a short time we +were steaming along between a forest of vessels of all nations, the +reading of whose names not a little amused us as we hurried by them. +English, Russian, Dutch, French, succeeded each other; the _coup d'oeil_ +was extremely imposing, and the long wide quays, which seemed to know no +end, announced a city of great importance. The small steamer continued +its way, more fortunate than that which arrives from England, which, +from its size, cannot go far up the shallow river, and stops half a +league from the town at a faubourg called Barcalan; but we were enabled, +from our comparative insignificance, to reach to the very finest point +of Bordeaux, and land at the foot of the grand promenade _Des +Quinconces_--the glory of the Garonne. + +The extreme flatness of the town, built as it is on marshes, takes from +its effect; and I was surprised that it struck me as so little deserving +its great reputation, compared, as it has been, to Genoa, Venice, and +Constantinople, and imagining, as I did, that I should see its buildings +rising in a superb amphitheatre from the waves, and crowning heights, +like those we had passed, with towers and spires. The quays, also, had +been so much vaunted to me that I expected much finer mansions on their +sides; whereas they are principally warehouses, and those not very +neatly kept: there was little of the bustle and stir of business which +one, accustomed to London, may picture: all seemed sufficiently quiet +and still, except the clamour of the commissioners, who contended for +the possession of the passengers in our vessel, whose arrival in this +commercial port made much more stir than seemed reasonable in so great a +city. + +The _immense_ space of the Quinconces passed, we crossed an _immense_ +street to an _immense_ irregular square, from whence lead _immensely_ +wide _cours_ in various directions; and we stood before one of the +largest theatres in one of the widest spaces I ever saw in a town: here, +after much contention with our vociferous attendants, we resolved to +pause, choosing the hotel the nearest to this magnificent building, and +which promised to be most airy and quiet; the river running at the +bottom of the long street in which it was situated, the theatre before +it, and the great square left at its side, with all its rattle of carts +and wheelbarrows, and screaming commissioners. In the handsome, clean +Hotel de Nantes we were accordingly deposited, and had reason to +congratulate ourselves on our choice while we staid at Bordeaux. + +It appears almost heresy to every one in France to find fault with +Bordeaux, which it is the custom to consider all that is grand, +magnificent, and beautiful; yet, if I were to be silent as to my +impressions, I should feel that I was scarcely honest. We stayed nearly +a fortnight at Bordeaux, and, in the course of that time, had a variety +of weather, good and bad; so that I think we could not be influenced by +the gloom which at first, unexpectedly, damp, chill and uncongenial +skies spread around. A few days were very brilliant, but still the +waters of the Garonne kept their thick orange hue, without brilliancy or +life, and this circumstance alone suffices to prevent the great city +from deserving to be called attractive. The quays on its banks are +extremely wide; but, except for a short space on each side the +Quinconces, the houses which border them are no finer nor cleaner than +in any other town in France; the pavement is very bad near them, and +there are no _trottoirs_ in this part: incumbrances of all sorts cover +the quays in every direction, so that free walking is impossible; and +the irregularity of the pavement next the river is so great that it is +constantly necessary to resume the rugged path on the stones, among the +bullock-carts and market-people, who frequent this part in swarms at all +times of the day. The bridge is extraordinarily long, over the +clay-coloured river, but appears too narrow for its great length, and +the entrances to it struck me as poor and mean. From the centre is the +best view of the town; but, though very _singular_, from the strange +shapes of its towers and spires, the mass of dark irregular buildings it +presents cannot be called fine. The hills on the opposite side relieve +the extreme flatness; but there is no remarkable effect of the +picturesque amongst them. + +The boast of Bordeaux is its wide _allees_, which are avenues of trees, +bordered with uniform houses of great size; its enormous square next the +river surrounded with a grove of trees; its theatre, certainly +magnificent, and its wide _spaces_, not to be called _squares_. The new +town is _all space_; and if in space consists grandeur, it cannot be +denied that there is a great deal of it; but, to me, these wide, +rambling places appeared ungraceful and slovenly, wet and exposed in +winter, and glaring and dusty in summer. The splendid theatre stands in +one corner of a great space, from which several wide streets diverge: +some old and dark, some new. The best street, the Rue du Chapeau Rouge, +which is of great width, runs along on one side; it is short, but +continued, with another name, across the Place, and leads from one end +of this part of the town to the other. There is a good deal of +foot-pavement in this street, and here are the smartest shops; but, +compared with Paris or London, or any great English town, they are +contemptible. + +The fine Allees de Tourny traverse the town in the form of a star, and +the rays meet in a great square,--the Place Dauphine--which, if cleaner +and less neglected, would be extremely magnificent. The Place Tourny and +the Place Richelieu are also fine openings; and there are said to be no +less than forty public squares altogether, which must give a good +circulation to the air in most parts. + +The old town is, however, close, dirty, damp and dingy, beyond all +others that I have ever seen, and, in common with all the _new_ part of +Bordeaux, the worst paved, perhaps, of any in France. Here it is crowded +enough, and forms a singular contrast with the deserted appearance of +the gigantic squares in the sister town. + +Nevertheless, although I am by no means able to agree in attributing +extraordinary beauty to Bordeaux, there is no denying that there is much +to be astonished at in its magnitude, and to congratulate its +inhabitants upon, in the facilities afforded them of enjoying the air in +streets which would be shady, from the trees on each side, if they were +not so wide; in alleys and walks apparently interminable, where the +whole population can promenade, if they please, without appearing +crowded; in squares where they may lose themselves; and the most +magnificent theatre in Europe, which they generally neglect for several +smaller in other parts of the town. + +Still it appears to me impossible to forget that Bordeaux is built on a +marsh, and is surrounded by immense marshes, for leagues; and that, go +out of it which way you will, there is no fine country nor any agreeable +views. All its alleys and gardens are flat and formal, and all in the +midst of the town itself, surrounded by colossal houses, and only +bounded by a thick clayey river, which it is unpleasing for the eye to +rest upon. + +The sight of several of the most admired and important towns in France, +has reconciled me, in a singular degree, with that of Tours, whose fame +appeared to me, when I first saw it, to be undeserved. I judged, as one +accustomed to English splendour, and English neatness, and I scarcely +gave Tours all the credit it deserved. When I compare the clear, rapid, +sparkling Loire--shallow though it be--with the ugly waters of the +sluggish Garonne, I feel that it is indeed superior to most other French +rivers; and when I recollect the long, broad, extensive street which +divides Tours into two parts, is paved throughout, and connects it with +a bridge of noble proportions and most splendid approach, I am not +surprised that Tours is so much the object of a Frenchman's pride; and I +confess, that, if I had seen it after the boasted city of Bordeaux, its +river, and its bridge, I should have found little to find fault with; +for though it lies in a plain, it is not a marsh; and though it is +glaring and flat, it is dry and sandy, and not damp and unwholesome. + +Bordeaux is--notwithstanding that it failed to impress me with a sense +of admiration of its _beauty_--full of interest in every way, and worthy +of the most minute inspection and examination. We scarcely neglected a +single street, of all its mazes, and scarcely left unvisited a single +monument. As in all other French towns, building is actively going on, +and new public works are in progress: some on a very grand scale. The +antique buildings, so curious from their history, have, in spite of +repeated wars and the efforts of time, preserved a great deal of their +original appearance, and some of them are as fine as any to be found in +France. Amongst these, is the Portal of St. Seurin, and the facade of +St. Michel and St. Andre. + +Bordeaux is a city which seems to belong to two periods, totally unlike +each other. The old town, full of old houses--one of which, called _Le +Bahutier_, is a specimen of others--is an historical monument of the +Middle Ages, while the new is an epitome of La Jeune France, with all +its ambitious aspirations, its grand conceptions, and its failures. +There is no attempt, in the restoration of French towns in general, to +bring the new style as near the old as possible; on the contrary, it +would seem that modern architects were only glad of the vicinity of +antique fabrics, in order that they might show how superior was their +own skill, and how far they could deviate from the original model. In +Bordeaux, this is very striking. It appears as if the new city ought to +have been built by itself on another site, leaving the gloomy recesses +of the ancient city to themselves, for all that now surrounds it is +incongruous and inharmonious. + +Taken by itself, modern Bordeaux is to be admired; but, backed and +flanked as it is by a dense mass of blackened buildings belonging to +another age, it is singularly out of keeping. + +All the way from the great square of the Quinconces, with its Rostral +pillars, to the port of Bacalan, a series of wide quays border the broad +river; the Quai des Chartrons is considered one of the finest in France, +and, for commercial purposes, no doubt is so. Some parts of these quays +are bordered with trees, and, from the river, have a good effect. The +whole of this faubourg is on a grand scale. The appellation of +Chartrons, is said to be derived from Chartreux, a convent of that order +having existed here. The inhabitants of this quarter call themselves +_Chartronnais_, and a remarkable difference is supposed to exist between +them, both in countenance and manners, and those of the other +Bordelais. It is a common expression to say, _on va Chartronner_, when a +person takes a walk along the quay. We had occasion to do so several +times, as we were expecting friends from England, who were to arrive by +the packet, not long established between Southampton and Bordeaux, and, +on one occasion, on reaching the village of Bacalan, we hoped to be able +to while away the time of waiting, by a walk into fields, or by some +path near the river; but our hopes were in vain; there seem never to be +any walks or paths in fields, lanes, or by rivers, in France, except in +Normandy; no one cares, or is expected to care, for anything but the +high road, or the public promenade. The fields are generally marshy, and +the borders of the streams impracticable; except, therefore, one has a +taste for rough pavement, or can admire long ranges of warehouses, of +great size, the best way is to remain stationary, as we did, if +necessity calls one to Bacalau, seated on felled trees, under the shade +of others growing by the river, careless of inodorous vicinity or dust. + +We were surprised to find that the expected arrival of the packet from +England created no sort of interest in any one's mind in Bordeaux; but +this fact was explained, when we heard that it was a private undertaking +of English merchants, which, as it interfered with the vessels to +Havre, was by no means popular, and was little likely, in the end, to +answer. The same thing has been several times attempted in Bordeaux, but +has always been abandoned, not meeting with encouragement, although it +would seem to be a great convenience to persons visiting the South of +France. It was not thought that the steam-boat we were expecting would +make many more voyages, and, to judge by the small number of passengers +who arrived by it, there was little reason to expect that it could be +made to answer. + +In order to become well acquainted with the quays of Bordeaux, we made a +pilgrimage along their whole extent, by following the line, on the other +side of the Quinconces, as far as the old church of Sainte Croix--one of +the most ancient, as well as most curious, in Bordeaux. Our remarks, and +frequent pauses, on our way, as we passed the ends of different streets +which we destined for future explorings, attracted the attention of a +person whom, as he had an intelligent face, we addressed, begging him to +direct us in our way to Sainte Croix, as we began to think it could not +be so very far from the point where we, started, and we feared we might +have to retrace our steps over the uneasy pavement. Our new acquaintance +assured us, however, we were in the right road, and with great zeal +began to describe to us how many more ends of streets we must pass +before we should reach the desired spot. His costume was somewhat +singular, and we might have taken him for a character in the +Carnival,--if it had been the proper season--or one _voue au blanc_, for +he was entirely dressed in white, cap and all, following, we presume, +the calling of a baker or a mason. He expressed his pleasure that we +thought it worth while to go and see _his_ poor old church of Sainte +Croix, for he came from that _quartier_, and had a fondness for it: "It +is past contradiction," said he, "the most ancient and beautiful in +Bordeaux, though I say it, and deserves every attention, though it has +been dreadfully battered about at different times. People have tried to +run it down, and have asserted that the sculpture on its facade, +represented _des betises_; but all that has now disappeared. It was +built in the time of the Pagans, when the Protestant religion--to +which," he continued, bowing, "no doubt you belong--was unknown, and +when they were ignorant, and did many improper things. But, I assure +you, now, you will find the old arches very interesting; the church has +been restored, and is in very good condition. But that I have pressing +business another way, I should have made it a duty and a pleasure to +have been your guide, and pointed out the beauties of the old place to +you; but, as I cannot do so, I recommend you to the politeness of any +one, on your route, for all will consider themselves honoured in +indicating to you the exact position of the church, which is still at +some distance." + +So saying, our white spirit, pulling off his nightcap again, and, with +many bows, disappeared down a dark alley, carrying his refinement to the +doors of his customers. He must have been a good specimen of the +urbanity and good manners of his class in Bordeaux, and certainly no +finished cavalier could have expressed himself better. We had not gone +far before he re-appeared, to beg us not to forget, on our return, to +visit the church of St. Michel. We promised to neglect nothing, and +parted. + +Sainte Croix does indeed deserve a visit from the curious, though the +lovers of neatness would be somewhat shocked at the extraordinary state +of filth and slovenliness in which the area of ruin where it stands is +left. To look on either side of the path which leads to the facade would +cause feelings of disgust almost fatal to even antiquarian zeal, and the +wretched dilapidation of the space formerly occupied by the immense +convent once flourishing here cannot be described. The Saracens, it +seems, destroyed great part of the church and convent, which dates from +the seventh century, or earlier, and one would imagine it had remained +in the same state of ruin ever since; though it has probably been +rebuilt and re-destroyed fifty tunes. + +Much still remains, in spite of all the efforts of time and force, to +make Sainte Croix an object of singular interest; some of the circular +arches are quite perfect, with their zig-zag ornaments, as freshly cut +and sharp as possible; many of the pillars of the interior remain in +their original state--huge blocks out of which the columns have not yet +been carved, in the same manner as those at St. Alban's Abbey, in +Hertfordshire. Some of the string-courses are interrupted, being adorned +with foliage and other ornaments to a certain distance, and then +stopping suddenly, as if an incursion of new barbarians had frightened +the workmen from their labours. The space of the church is extremely +fine, the roof lofty, and the whole imposing; what is left of the +exterior of the principal entrance is very beautiful; but the carved +figures round the door-way are scarcely distinguishable; many of them +were, it is said, removed not long since, having been considered +objectionable, and not calculated to inspire piety in the beholders. + +All the tombs and relics of this famous abbey have disappeared, and no +one can now read the epitaph on St. Maumolin, Abbe of Fleury, by whose +zeal the bones of St. Benedict were brought to Sainte Croix, and who was +of singular piety; here he was buried, says his chronicler, at the age +of _three hundred and seventy years_. + +From Sainte Croix we directed our steps towards St. Michel, whose giant +tower had attracted us on our way, but, deterred by the extraordinary +filthiness and closeness of the nearest streets leading to it, we chose +a very circuitous route, outside the former enclosure of the town; and, +by this means, came unexpectedly on a large building of very imposing +appearance, which we found was the Abattoir: we did not care to linger +long near this place, but escaped, as soon as we could, from the droves +of bullocks which we met patiently plodding their way to their doom. For +a considerable distance we followed the walls, which had all the +appearance of being of Roman construction; and, dirty as our walk was, +we could not but prefer the free air in this part to the interior; we +had frequently occasion to ask our way, and invariably met with marked +civility; every one leaving their work to run forward, and point out to +us the nearest point we wished to reach. It appeared as if we should +never gain the entrance to this immense town again, so many streets and +alleys and gates did we pass; at length we came to one which was to lead +us down to St. Michel. Long boulevards did we traverse in this +direction, handsome and open; and in one part we were followed for some +time by a regiment going out to exercise with one of the finest bands I +ever heard, which, echoing along the extended parade, had a very +splendid effect. + +We reached at length the church of St. Michel, the caverns of the tower +of which are remarkable for their power of preserving the bodies buried +in them from putrefaction; ranges of skeletons, still covered with the +dried flesh, hideous and fearful, scowl on the intruder from their +niches, and present a most awful spectacle. The belfry has often served, +in times of civil war, as a beacon-tower, dominating, as it does, the +whole country and town; it is of the most marvellously-gigantic +construction, and appears to have been originally highly ornamented. It +stands isolated from the church itself, whose facades present the most +exquisite beauties; and are singularly preserved at every entrance. The +principal facade, however, is the most perfect as well as the most +beautiful; its rose window, its ranges of saints, its pinnacles, and +wreathed arches, are as much to be admired as any in France, and rivet +the attention by the delicacy and minuteness of their details. Its date +is of the twelfth century, and the utmost taste and cost were bestowed +on its construction; although, on the side of the tower there is a space +filled with trees, and unencumbered, yet it is to be regretted that, on +the side next the chief entrance, the church is blocked up with the +houses of a dark, narrow, and filthy street, so that its beauties are +sadly hid. Surely it would have been worth while to have cleared away +the encumbrances which surround this fine building, so as to show it +well, instead of much that has been done in the way of addition in the +new town. + +The only comparatively modern church in Bordeaux, which is much vaunted, +is Notre Dame, erected in 1701; it is lofty, and large, and of Grecian +architecture; but did not impress me with any feelings of admiration; +and it stands at the end of a narrow street in a corner, shown to little +more advantage than the neglected St. Michel itself. + +Before the cathedral of St. Andre, which we next visited, a space has +been cleared away; and at St. Seurin, also, where a grove of trees has +been planted, which adds greatly to the venerable appearance of the +building. + +St. Andre is of the thirteenth century, and is wonderfully magnificent +and curious. Its tower, called De Payberland, stands alone, like that of +St. Michel; and is only less stupendous than that wonder of +architecture. The size and height of the aisles and choir are amazing, +and the nave of the choir is bold and grand in the extreme. The two +spires of the southern portal are of great beauty, and the whole fabric +is full of interest, though scarcely a tomb remains. There are, however, +several exquisitely-carved canopies where tombs have been, and, standing +close to one of the large pillars behind the choir, is a group which +excited my utmost interest; it seems to represent the Virgin and St. +Anne, but might have another meaning. A figure in a nun's habit stands +close against a pillar in a niche, and by her side is a little girl of +about eleven years of age, in the full costume of the thirteenth +century, one of whose hands touches her robe, and who appears under her +protection. This charming little figure represents what might well be a +young princess in flowing robes; the upper one is gathered up, and its +folds held under one arm: her waist is encircled by a sash, the ends of +which are confined by tassels. A necklace of beads is round her neck; +the body of her gown is cut square. Her hair hangs in long thick tresses +down her back, and over her shoulder, and is wreathed with jewels. A +small cap, _delicately plaited_, covers the fore-part of her head, and a +rich wide band of pearls and gems surmounts it. The features are very +youthful, but with a grave majesty in their expression; the attitude is +queenly, and the whole statue full of grace and simplicity. The nun has +a melancholy, benevolent cast of features, inferior in style to the +little princess, but extremely pleasing. + +I imagined this to be the effigy of Elionore, the young heiress of +Aquitaine, under the care of a patron saint; and, thinking the pretty +group was in marble, had visions of the queen of Henry II. having +erected these figures in her life-time, in the cathedral which she +built; but, on requesting a person, on whose judgment I could rely, to +examine it for me, he discovered that the whole was _only plaster_; and, +consequently, as he added in the language of an antiquarian, +"presenting no possible interest." I gave up my theory with reluctance; +although I ought to have been certain that, had any such statue existed +of her time, it was more likely to be found amongst the rubbish of the +ruined cloisters, where many are still seen, than in the body of the +cathedral. + +Close to the group is a picture--at the altar of _Sainte Rote_, who also +wears a nun's habit. Probably my favourite has some connexion with her +legend. + +The once fine cloisters of the Cathedral are in ruins. A few door-ways +remain, which seem of an earlier date than the church itself; and some +very antique tombs, with effigies, are thrown into corners totally +uncared for. If these were restored to some of the empty niches they +would be more in place. + +At one end of the Cathedral, under the organ-loft, are some very curious +bas-reliefs, in which there seems a singular jumble of sacred and +profane history. They are very well executed, and worthy of minute +attention. An arcade of the time of the Renaissance, extremely +beautiful, but incongruous, encloses these carvings. + +But, perhaps, the most remarkable of all the churches of Bordeaux is St. +Seurin: its portico is one of the richest and most elaborate I ever saw, +and the beauty and delicacy of its adornments are beyond description. +The church itself, except this precious _morceau_, is not so interesting +as others; although here once reposed the body of the famous paladin, +Rolando, whose body was brought, by Charlemagne, from Blaye. There, on +his tomb, rested his wondrous sword, Durandal, which was afterwards +transported to Roquemador en Quercy. This was the weapon with which he, +at one stroke, clove the rock of the Pyrenees which bears his name.[13] +His tomb and his bones must be sought elsewhere now, with those of many +other of the knights who fell at Roncesvalles' fight. Where his famous +horn was deposited after it came from Blaye does not appear. + +[Footnote 13: See description of _the Breche_, in the second volume of +this work.] + +Another long ramble, which exhibited to us more of the curiosities of +Bordeaux, brought us to the Roman building which still rises, in ruins, +in one of the distant quarters of the town, and is called the Palais +Gallien. This fabric has a singular appearance, its strong arch, which +still serves as a passage from one street to another, its thick walls of +brick and small stone, its loops, through which the blue sky shines, and +its ivy-covered masses make it very imposing. The learned are divided as +to its date: Ausonius does not name it in his enumeration of the works +of Bordeaux; but its Roman origin, of whatever age, is undoubted. It +stands in a state of squalid neglect and dirt, sharing the fate of most +of the antiquities of Bordeaux. If the space were cleared, and the +surrounding huts removed, a decent walk made, and the whole enclosed, +this monument of former days might form an attractive object: as it is, +the struggle to escape entanglement in every sort of dirt, while +fighting one's way to the ruined amphitheatre, is almost too +disheartening. When these circumstances accompany a visit to antiquities +in out-of-the-way places, such as Saintes, and distant and +anti-commercial towns, such as Poitiers, one has no reproach to make to +the inhabitants; but what is to be said for rich and flourishing +Bordeaux,--the rival of Paris,--when she allows her monuments to remain +in so degraded a state! + +One of the glories of Bordeaux is having been the birth-place of +Montaigne, whose tomb is in the church of the Feuillants, now the +college. There are two inscriptions,--one Greek and one Latin; both of +which appear unsuitable and extravagant. + +Another great man, born near Bordeaux, was Montesquieu: to see whose +chateau of La Brede, about four leagues off, is one of the usual +excursions of tourists; but we were prevented visiting it by bad +weather. + +Whatever may be the effect of Bordeaux, as a city, one charm it has +which can hardly be disputed, namely, the remarkable beauty of its young +women of the _grisette_ class, and the peculiar grace with which they +wear the handkerchief, which it is usual to wreath round the head in a +manner to display its shape to the greatest advantage, and which is tied +with infinite taste; showing the form of the large knot of hair behind, +which falls low upon the neck, in the most classical style. They have +generally good complexions, rich colour, fine dark eyes and very long +eye-lashes, glossy dark hair, and graceful figures. As they flit and +glide about the streets,--and you come upon them at every turn,--in +their dark dresses and shawls, with only a lively colour in the stripe +of their pretty head-dress, a stranger cannot fail to be exceedingly +struck with their countenances and air. Black and yellow predominate in +the hues; but sometimes a rich chocolate colour, with some other tint +rather lighter, relieves the darkness of the rest of the costume. A gold +chain is worn round the throat, with a golden cross attached; and a +handsome broach generally fastens the well-made gown, with its +neatly-plaited collar, rather more open in front than is usual in +France. They are said to be great coquettes; and certainly worthy of the +admiration which they are sure to attract. + +When one observes how flat and marshy all the ground about Bordeaux is, +even now, one need not be surprised at the illness it must have +engendered in the time of the Black Prince, nor that his health suffered +so fatally from its influence. He appears to have deferred his departure +from this uncongenial climate as long as possible, until the loss of his +eldest son, Prince Edward, at the interesting age of six years, decided +him to trust it no longer. + +The poor child died the beginning of January 1371, to the extreme grief +of his parents; "as," says the chronicle, "might well be." It was then +recommended to the Prince of Wales and Aquitaine that he should return +to England, in order that, in his native country and air, he might +recover his health, which was fast failing. This counsel was given him +by the surgeons and physicians who understood his malady. The prince was +willing to follow their advice, and said that he should be glad to +return. Accordingly he arranged all his affairs, and prepared to leave. + +"When," says the chronicler, "the said prince had settled his departure, +and his vessel was all ready in the Garonne, at the harbour of Bordeaux, +and he was in that city with madame his wife, and young Richard their +son, he sent a special summons to all the barons and knights of Gascony, +Poitou, and all of whom he was sire and lord. When they were all come +and assembled in a chamber in his presence, he set forth to them how he +had been their father, and had maintained them in peace as long as he +could, and in great prosperity and power, against their neighbours, and +that he left them only and returned to England in the hope of recovering +his health, of which he had great want. He therefore entreated them, of +their love, that they would serve and obey the Duke of Lancaster his +brother, as they had obeyed him in time past: for they would find him a +good knight, and courteous, and willing to grant all, and that in their +necessities he would afford them aid and counsel. The barons of +Aquitaine, Gascony, Poitou, and Saintonge, agreed to this proposition; +and swore, by their faith, that he should never find them fail in fealty +and homage to the said duke; but that they would show him all love, +service, and obedience; and they swore the same to him, being there +present, and each of them _kissed him on the mouth_. + +"These ordinances settled, the prince made no long sojourn in the city +of Bordeaux, but embarked on board his vessel, with madame, the +princess, and their son, and the Earl of Cambridge, and the Earl of +Pembroke: and in his fleet were five hundred men-at-arms, besides +archers. They sailed so well that, without peril or harm, they reached +Hampton. There they disembarked, and remained to refresh for three days; +and then mounted on horseback--_the prince in his litter_--and travelled +till they came to Windsor, where the king then was; who received his +children _very sweetly_, and informed himself, by them, of the state of +Guienne. And when the prince had remained a space with the king, he took +leave and went to his hotel at Berkhampstead, about _twenty leagues_ +from the city of London." + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + THE GARONNE--THE LORD OF LANGOYRAN--MIRACLE OF THE MULE--CASTLE OF + THE FOUR SONS OF AYMON--THE AGED LOVER--GAVACHES--THE + FRANCHIMANS--COUNT RAYMOND--FLYING BRIDGES--THE MILLER OF + BARBASTE--THE TROUBADOUR COUNT--THE COUNT DE LA MARCHE--THE + ROCHELLAISE--EUGENIE AND HER SONG. + + +AT four o'clock, on a September morning, we followed our +_commissionnaire_ from the Hotel de Nantes, at Bordeaux, along the now +solitary quay, for nearly a mile, the stars shining brightly and the air +soft and balmy, to the steam-boat, which was to take us along the +Garonne to Agen--a distance of about a hundred and twelve miles. The +boat was the longest and narrowest I ever saw, but well enough +appointed, with very tolerable accommodation, and an excellent +_cuisine_. + +As soon as it was daylight, we began to look out for the beauties of the +river, which several persons had told us was, in many respects, superior +to the Loire; consequently, as we continued to pass long, marshy fields, +without an elevation, covered with the blue crocus, and bordered with +dim grey sallows, we were content, expecting, when we were further from +the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, that these beauties would burst upon our +view. For many hours the boat pursued its way against the stream, but +nothing striking came before our view: the same clay-coloured river, the +same flat bank, with here and there a little change to undulating hills +of insignificant height, and occasionally some village, picturesquely +situated, or some town, with a few ruined walls, which told of former +battles and sieges. All these banks were the scenes of contention +between the Lusignans and the Epernonists, in 1649; and here are many +famous vineyards; amongst them Castres and Portets, renowned for their +white wines; close to which is La Brede, where Montesquieu was born. + +The scenery about this part began to improve; some ruins, crowning a +height, appeared, which we found had once been the Chateau de Langoyran; +about a lord of which an anecdote is told, characteristic of the period +when it occurred. Francois de Langoyran carried on constant contention +with two neighbouring chiefs, who were friends to England; and, one day, +with forty lances, he presented himself before the walls of Cadillac, +occupied by an English garrison: "Where is Courant, your captain?" said +he; "let him know that the Sire de Langoyran desires a joust with him: +he is so good and so valiant, he will not refuse, for the love of his +lady; and if he should, it would be to his great dishonour; and I shall +say, wherever I come, that he refused a joust of lances from cowardice." +Bernard Courant accepted the challenge, and a deadly strife began, in +which Langoyran was wounded and thrown to the earth. Seeing that his +troop were coming to his rescue, Courant summoned his adversary to +yield; but, he refusing to do so, Courant drew his dagger, stabbed him +to the heart, and rode out of the lists, leaving the imprudent knight +dead on the spot. A later lord of Langoyran became a firm ally of the +English, till they were expelled under Charles le Bien Servi. + +Cadillac, where once stood a magnificent castle, built by the Duke +d'Epernon, where Louis XIII. and all his court were entertained with +great pomp, in 1620, and which cost above two millions of francs, offers +now but a retreat for convicts. + +Barsac is not far off, well known for its fine white wines; and beyond, +is Sainte Croix de Mont, a village placed on rather a bold eminence. At +Preignac the little river Ciron runs into the Garonne, and brings on its +current wood from the Landes. Sometimes this small stream becomes so +swollen, that it overflows, and renders the road in its neighbourhood +dangerous. After the battle of Orthez, the mutilated remains of the +French army crossed the valley, which this river had rendered a perfect +marsh, at the peril of their lives, in order to pursue their melancholy +journey, flying from the British arms. + +Close by is Garonnelle, a port of the _Verdelais_, where, situated a +little way up the country, is a famous chapel, dedicated to Notre Dame +du Luc, to which pilgrims resort, on the 8th of September, from all +parts of France--so great is her renown. The chapel was founded in the +twelfth century, by a Countess of Foix, and re-edified by another, or, +as some say, built first in 1407, under the following circumstances:-- + +One day, as Isabella de Foix, wife of Archambaud de Grailli, Count of +Benauge, was visiting her domains, she had occasion to pass through a +wood, when suddenly the mule on which she was riding, stopped, and would +not stir from the spot either one way or the other. It was found that +his foot had sunk into a _very hard_ stone, to the depth of four or five +inches, his iron-shod hoof imprinting a mark on the substance. The lady, +much _surprised_ at such a circumstance, which could be no other than a +prodigy, descended from the animal, had the stone raised, and beheld, as +well as all those who accompanied her, and as all may see who visit the +holy chapel raised in the wood, a perfect portrait of the blessed +Virgin, where the hoof of the mule had been! + +This sanctuary was given in charge to the monks of the order of Grand +Mont. The Huguenots pillaged and burnt the chapel, in 1562. It was again +constructed, and given to the Father Celestins, in the seventeenth +century; but in all its perils and dangers the miraculous stone has +remained uninjured, and attracts the same veneration as ever. Perhaps it +is its vicinity which has imparted such virtues to a vineyard near, +which produces the far-famed "Sauterne" known throughout Europe. + +We came to a great many suspension-bridges on our way: the French seem +to have a perfect passion for throwing them across their rivers in this +region; and, it is said, not all of them are safe; as, for instance, the +admired and vaunted Cubzac, which, it is now generally feared, will give +way. One of these bridges is at Langon; once a very important town, and +one of late much improved in commerce, in consequence of the traffic +caused by the steam-boats from Bordeaux to Agen. + +A famous siege was sustained here, against the Huguenots, in 1587, when +the Lord of Langon defended himself in a gallant manner, though +abandoned by all his people, _his wife alone_ sharing his danger, and +fighting by his side to the last, and even after his castle was taken, +resisting still. The grand route from Bordeaux to Bayonne passes by +Langon. There is no vestige of its castle; but a fine church, built by +the English, exists, where the arms of England are even now conspicuous. +Scattered about, here and there, but distant from the river, ruins of +castles are still to be seen: amongst others, that of Budos is very +picturesque. + +At St. Macaire, where furious contentions once took place, during the +wars of religion;--two hundred English prisoners were taken at the time +of the battle of Toulouse. The church has an imposing effect. + +Soon after this, the banks of the river become rocky, and are full of +caverns, inhabited in a similar manner to those which so much struck me +on the Loire; but they by no means present so singular or picturesque an +appearance. The remains of the ancient stronghold of Castets look well +placed on a height in this neighbourhood; but the scattered ruins which +cover a hill near, are more interesting than any, although there are now +but little traces of a fortress once the theme of minstrels and +romancers. This is no other than the castle of the Four Sons of Aymon. + +The little port of Gironde is remarkable for a dreadful event which +happened there in the last century. There was formerly a ferry where the +bridge now extends; and one day the ferryman insisted on being paid +double the usual fare. There were no less than eighty-three passengers +on board his boat, all of whom resisted the imposition. The +"_ferryman-fiend_" was so enraged, that, just as they reached the shore, +he ran the boat against a projecting point, and overturned it. Only +three persons, besides himself, escaped: the rest were all lost. The +wretch fled instantly, and was never taken; he was condemned to death, +and hung in effigy; and since then an annual procession takes place on +the banks of the Drot, where the catastrophe occurred, and solemn +service is performed for the victims. + +The town of La Reole has an imposing effect, rising from the waters. It +has shared the fate of all the other towns on the banks, during the +ceaseless troubles which for ages made this river roll with blood. When +Sully was but fifteen, he was amongst a successful party who took +possession of this place; he entered, at the head of fifty men, and +gained it in most gallant style; but it was lost the next year, under +the following circumstances, which prove that Henry IV. carried his love +of jesting considerably beyond the bounds of prudence. + +The command of La Reole, says Perefixe, was given to an old Huguenot +captain, named Ussac, who was remarkably ugly, to a degree which made +him a mark of observation; nevertheless, his heart was too tender to +resist the fascinations of one of the fair syrens who aided the plans of +Catherine, the Queen-mother. The Vicomte de Turenne, then aged about +twenty, could not resist making the passion of the old soldier a theme +of ridicule among his companions; and Henry, instead of discouraging +this humour, joined in it heartily, making his faithful servant a butt +on all occasions. Ussac could not endure this attack on so very tender a +point, and, rendered almost frantic with vexation, forgetting every +consideration of honour and religion, abandoned the cause of Henry, and +delivered over the town of La Reole to the enemy. + +In this part of the country are to be found that race of persons known +to the original natives as _Gavaches_: the word is one of contempt, +taken from the Spanish; and the habit of treating these people with +contumely, which is not even yet entirely worn out, comes from an early +time: that is to say, so long ago as 1526; at which period a great part +of the population on the banks of the Drot, and round La Reole and +Marmande, was carried off by an epidemic; so that the country was +completely desolate; and where all was once fertile and flourishing, +nothing but ruin and misery was to be seen. Henry d'Albret, King of +Navarre, anxious to save it from sterility, and to restore a happy state +of things, re-peopled the lands with emigrants, whom he induced to come +and settle there, from Anjou, Angoumois, and Saintonge. They united +themselves to the very small remnant of those remaining, who had escaped +the contagion, and, in a short time, forty-seven _communes_ recovered +their prosperity. + +The strangers who thus filled the places of the former inhabitants, +brought their customs and manners with them; Du Mege remarks that, "to +them are owing the style of building which may be observed in some of +the old houses in this neighbourhood, namely, the very pointed and +inclined roofs, which belong rather to a country accustomed to snow,[14] +than to this where it is not usual." + +[Footnote 14: _Du Mege (Statistique_ III.) This observation scarcely +appears to me correct, since the countries bordering on the Loire are +certainly not more used to snows than those closer to the mountains. In +Bearn these shelving roofs are constantly to be seen.] + +The descendants of these new colonists have not forgotten their origin; +they inherit the manners of their fathers; wear the same thick hair and +long coats. Their drawling pronunciation, peculiar idiom, and the +slowness of their movements, make them easily distinguished from the +lively Gascons. A curious mixture of dialect resulted from the re-union +of so many provinces with the _patois_ of the country, and the language +still heard there is a jargon of strange sounds. + +The capital of what was called _La Gavacherie_, was placed at +Castelmoron-d'Albret, which is now one of the finest and most fertile +cantons in the diocese of Bazas. + +There exists a propensity, it seems, in the people of this part of the +country, particularly about Agen, to fix contemptuous epithets on +strangers who settle amongst them; it matters not from what land they +come,--it is sufficient that the Gascon idiom is unknown to them. + +The foreigner is generally called, in derision, _lou Franchiman_;[15] +and is, for a long time after his first arrival, an object of suspicion +and dislike. + +[Footnote 15: See the Poems of Jasmin.] + +This term evidently belongs to the period of the English possession, +when a _Frenchman_ was another word for an enemy. + +On these shores, traces of the dwellings of the Romans are constantly +found in Mosaic pavements, and ruins and coins. At Hures, in particular, +some fine specimens have been lately discovered: amongst others, +fragments of pillars of _verd-antique_ and fine marbles of different +sorts. There is also a marvellous rock at Hures, where an invisible +miraculous virgin is still in the habit of performing wonders, though +her statue has been long since removed. + +A high hill, once crowned with a castle, rises from the river after a +series of flat meadows. This was once Meilhan, one of the finest castles +in the Garonne, belonging to the Duke de Bouillon, who, suspected of +treason, blew up his magnificent abode, destroying with it the abbey and +church beneath. An immense forest spread far into the Landes from this +point, only a few trees of which remain. + +When the castle was destroyed, the clock of the Benedictine church +rolled down into the river, and was afterwards raised in the night, and +taken possession of by the Marmandais; the Meilhanais even still insist +on its being their property. + +There are some ruins, in the quarter called La Roque, of a rampart, from +whence is a perilous descent to the shore: here once stood a tower, +through a breach in which it is said that the Maid of Orleans conducted +the soldiers of Charles VII., and took the town. This tower was seen at +so great a distance that it gave rise to a proverb: "He who sees Meilhan +is not within side it." + +Over the principal entrance of the castle was a sculptured stone--still +preserved, but in a most ignoble position: it represented a cavalier +armed with a lance, with a shield on his left arm; by the form of which +it would appear to belong to those used by the ancient Franks. The arms +of Meilhan are _three toads_, doubtless the most familiar animal in so +damp and marshy a country. + +At a village called Couture, a phrase is left from very old times, when +_a_ Raymond, Count of Toulouse, happening to stop there to rest, asked +for a measure of wine, which he drank off at a draught, though it was no +small quantity; instead, therefore, of saying a bottle of two _litres_, +it is usual to say in this country, "_A measure of Count Raymond's_." + +The _Roc de Quatalan_ is near this point, whose name has been derived +from _quatre-a-l'an_; because it causes so many wrecks in the course of +the year. + +There is nothing very striking in the appearance of Marmande, once +remarkable for its castle and churches and abbeys; but now only a place +of commerce connected with Bordeaux. Nevertheless, the Romans, Goths, +and Saracens, made it a place of importance, and severally destroyed it +in their turn. Richard Coeur de Lion rebuilt and fortified it, only to +be again ravaged and pillaged by the party of Montford, and, under the +Black Prince, it was taken and retaken. Henry IV. besieged it, and, in +1814, the town of Marmande had to sustain its last attack. It has a good +port, and, apparently, some pretty public walks, and is about half-way +between Bordeaux and Agen. + +Caumont appears next, once not only famous for its castle, but its +tyrannical lord; who, in the time of Louis XIII., was governor of this +part of the river, and carried on a system of oppression which became +unbearable. He cast an iron chain across the river, to prevent the +passing of vessels, on which he laid his hands in the most unpitying +manner, taking possession of all he could meet with. At length, the +relation of his cruelties and rapines found a hearing with the King, +who, without consulting any one, had the detested lord of Argilimont, as +his stronghold was called, arrested and condemned; his sentence was +executed at Bordeaux the day after he was taken, and his castle and +estates were bestowed on the Sire d'Estourville. + +If half the castles which once bordered this river existed now, the +scenery would be wonderfully improved; but they live in memory alone, +and their sites are all that remain. Gontaud and Tonneins, where proud +towers once frowned, are but insignificant villages now; at the first, a +_patois_ song is said still to be popular, the chorus of which +commemorated the loss of all the people of Gontaud, put to the sword by +Biron, in revenge for the death of one of his best officers: it runs +thus:-- + + "Las damos, que soun sul rempart + Cridon moun Diou! Bierge Mario! + Adiou, Gountaou, bilo jolio!" + +Perhaps that which is most worthy of remark on the Garonne, is the +number of _flying bridges_ which cross it, replacing many an old stone +or wooden one, or a ferry, with which the inhabitants of these parts +were so long contented. It is to the Messrs. Seguin that France is +indebted for these beautiful constructions, the hint of which they are +said to have taken in England. I had seen few of them when I visited +his _family of beauties_ in the valley near Montbard, whose +accomplishments and singular attractions furnished me with a romantic +chapter in my _last pilgrimage_.[16] + +[Footnote 16: "See Pilgrimage to Auvergne," chap. xiii. p. 271.] + +A stone bridge, built by Napoleon, however, crosses the river at +Aiguillon, which stands at the confluence of the Lot and Garonne, and is +famous for its castle, built by the Duke d'Aiguillon--that minister who, +protected by Mde. du Barry, gave his aid towards preparing the +downfal of France, undermined by the acts of a series of worthless +characters, in every department of the state, from the monarch +downwards. Marie Antoinette held him in especial odium, and he was +exiled, by her desire, to his gorgeous chateau on the Lot, where he was, +in fact, a prisoner, not being allowed to sleep out of it; on one +occasion, when he visited Agen for two days, word was sent to him that +it was expected he should not prolong his stay. The castle, in his time, +was a Versailles in miniature, and was not entirely finished at the +Revolution. + +An ancient Roman tower, of which a few walls only now remain, on the +route to Agen, was once a conspicuous object from the river: it was +called _La Tourrasse_, ("_enormous tower_" in _patois_), and many +discoveries prove the importance of this place in the time of the +Romans. + +The Baise is the next river that falls into the Garonne, following whose +banks towards Nerac is Barbaste and its old chateau, of which Henri +Quatre was fond of calling himself _The Miller_, which title, on one +occasion, stood him in good stead when a great danger threatened him; a +soldier of the opposite party, who came from this part of the country +where the prince was always beloved, could not resolve to see the +destruction which awaited him if he had advanced a step towards a mine +which was just on the point of blowing up. At the critical instant, he +called out, in _patois_, which none but Henry understood, "Moulie de +Barbaste, pren garde a la gatte que bay gatoua:"--'Millar of Barbaste, +beware of the cat' (_gatte_ means, indifferently, _cat_ or _mine_) +'which is going to kitten' (_gatoua_ has the meaning of _blowing up_, as +well.) Henry drew back in time, just as the mine exploded. Thanks, +therefore, to his readiness, and the expressive nature of the Gascon +_patois_, the hero was, for that time, saved; he took care not to lose +sight of his deliverer, and, on a future occasion, rewarded him amply +for the service he had rendered. + +The little port of St. Marie, well known as a safe harbour to the +fishermen of the Garonne, once formed part, with the town, of the +possessions of Raymond, the last Count of Toulouse; who, after a series +of persecutions from the Pope and the King of France, (St. Louis,) to +induce him to give up the protection of the Albigenses, was permitted to +retain this portion, only on condition of destroying the fortifications +of the strong castle which existed there. Guy, Viscount de Cavaillon, +his friend and fellow troubadour, on one occasion addressed to him the +following lines, to which he returned the answer subjoined; but, +nevertheless, was obliged to submit to the power of the Church, like the +rest of the world: + + "GUY DE CAVAILLON TO THE COUNT OF TOULOUSE. + + "Tell me, Count, if you would rather + Owe your lands and castles high + To the Pope, our holy father, + Or to sacred chivalry? + Were it best a knight and noble + Conquer'd by his sword alone, + Bearing heat, and cold, and trouble, + By his arm to gain his own?" + + + "ANSWER OF COUNT RAYMOND TO GUY DE CAVAILLON. + + "Guy, much sooner would I gain + All by valour and my sword, + Than by other means obtain + What no honour can afford. + Church nor clergy I despise, + Neither fear them, as you know; + But no towers or castles prize + Which their hands alone bestow: + Holding honour above all + Gifts or conquests, great or small." + +The evening was drawing in too much by the time we reached that part of +the shore, where the few walls of the once stupendous chateau of the +Lusignans appear, and we could see nothing but the shadow--it might be +of the wings of the fairy, Melusine, hovering in the dim light over +this, one of her numerous castles. + +Here lived and contended Hugues de Lusignan, Counte de la Marche, who +had married his first love, the beautiful Isabeau d'Angouleme, widow of +King John of England; whose effigy so delighted me at Fontevraud, lying +beside that of her brother-in-law, Coeur de Lion.[17] But, if that +lovely face and delicate form truly represented the princess, her +character is singularly at variance with her gentle demeanour. She was +the most imperious, restlessly proud, and vindictive woman of her time, +and kept up a constant warfare with her husband and the King of France; +to whom she could not endure that the Count de Lusignan should be +considered a vassal. "I," she cried, "the widow of a king! the mother of +a king and an empress! am, then, to be reduced to take rank after a +simple countess! to do homage to a count!" This was on the occasion of +the marriage of the brother of Louis IX., with Jeanne, Countess and +heiress of Toulouse, to whom the Count of Lusignan owed homage. "No," +she continued, with indignant fury, "you shall not commit so cowardly an +action: resist: my son, and my son-in-law, will come to your aid. I will +raise the people of Poitou--my allies, my vassals--and, if they are not +enough, I have power alone to save you from such disgrace." Hugues, thus +excited, agreed to follow her counsel; and a long struggle ensued, +sometimes attended with triumph to the haughty countess, sometimes with +discomfiture; and ending by the ruin of her husband and children, and +the confiscation of much of their domains to the crown of France. This +was she to whom the troubadour count addressed these lines, amongst +others: + + "So full of pleasure is my pain, + To me my sorrow is so dear, + That, not the universe to gain + Would I exchange a single tear. + + "What have I said?--I cannot choose, + Nor would I seek to have the will; + How can I when my soul I lose + In thought and sleepless visions still, + Yet cannot from her presence fly, + Altho' to linger is to die." + +[Footnote 17: See "A Summer amongst the Bocages and the Vines," vol. ii. +chap. i. page 15.] + +We were seated in the cabin of the steam-boat, resigning ourselves to +patience until Agen should be reached--for it was now dark, and a shower +had fallen which made the decks wet--when we were summoned to brave all +by the promise of a treat above. We had observed, in the course of the +day, a party of young women, each wrapped in a large black cloak, the +pointed hood of which was either drawn over the head or allowed to fall +behind, showing the singular square cap, which at once told they were +Rochellaises. They were at the opposite end of the long vessel; and, as +some were below, we had no idea that they mustered so large a party, for +it appeared that there were no fewer than twenty-one, all from La +Tremblade, or the other islands in the neighbourhood of La Rochelle. +They were taking their usual autumn voyage up the Garonne, and, from +Agen, were destined to various towns as far as the Pyrenees, where they +remain all the oyster season, receiving, by the boat, twice a week, a +consignment of oysters to be disposed of, on the spot where their +residence is fixed. They were generally young, some extremely so, and +very well conducted; sitting together in groups, and talking in an under +tone; but, at this hour of the evening, they all congregated on deck, +and were singing some of their songs as the boat went rapidly on, and +the soft breeze caught up their notes. + +When I first joined them, it was so dark that I could distinguish their +figures with difficulty, and only knew, by the murmurs of applause which +followed the close of their chaunt, that they were surrounded by all the +crew, who were attentively listening to their strains. When they found +some strangers had come amongst them they were seized with a fit of +shyness, which I feared would put a stop to the scene altogether; for +the chief songstress declared herself hoarse, and uttered "her pretty +oath, by yea and nay, she could not, would not, durst not" sing again: +however, at last the spirit came again, and, after a little persuasion, +she agreed to recollect something. "Ah, Ma'amselle Eugenie," said one of +the older girls, "if I had such a voice I would not allow myself to be +so entreated." Accordingly she began, and the chorus of her song was +taken up by all the young voices. I never heard anything more melodious +and touching than the song altogether: Eugenie's voice was soft, clear, +and full, and had a melancholy thrill in it, which it was impossible to +hear without being affected; she seemed to delight in drawing out her +last notes, and hearing their sound prolonged on the air. The ballads +she chose were _all sad_, in the usual style of the Bretons: one was +expressive of sorrow for absence, and was full of tender reproaches, +ending in assurances of truth, in spite of fate; and one, "Dis moi! dis +moi!" was a lament for a captive, which, as well as I could catch the +words,--partly French and partly _patois_--was full of mournful regret, +and seemed to run thus at every close: + +"The north wind whistles--the night is dark; at the foot of the hill +the captive looks forth in vain,--ah! he is weeping still! always at the +foot of that hill you may hear his sighs. + +"'Alas!' he says, 'what is there in the world that can compare to +liberty? and I am a prisoner. I weep alone!'--he sees a bird fly by, and +exclaims, 'There is something still left worth living for--I may be one +day free!'" + + "Helas! le pauvre enfant--il pleure toujours: + Il pleure toujours! au fond de la colline." + +Perhaps this song might allude to some of those unfortunate patriots of +La Vendee, whose fate was as sad as any romance could tell. + +I never remember to have heard what seemed to me more real melody than +this singing; and was very sorry when the young girls insisted, in +return for their compliance, on one of the crew obliging them with a +song; for he obeyed, and, in one of the usual cracked voices, which are +so common in France, raised peals of laughter by intoning an _English +air_--no other than "God Save the King." This effectually spoilt the +pretty romance of the veiled Rochellaises; not one of whom we could see, +in the darkness, and their voices seemed to come from the depths of the +Garonne, as if they were the spirits of its waters, who had taken +possession of our vessel, and were beguiling us with their sweet voices +into their whirlpools and amongst their sands. + +I thanked them for my share of the amusement, and remarked to one near +me how beautiful the voice of Eugenie was. "Yes," said she, "she is +celebrated in the country for singing so well; but, even now, her mother +sings the best; you never heard such a lovely tone as her's; they are a +musical family: every one cannot have such a gift as Eugenie." + +This seemed a good beginning for the music and poetry of the south, and +promised well for all that was to come; _but that music was the last_, +as it had been the first, I had heard in France; where, in general, +there is no melody amongst the people, in any part that I have visited. +As for its poetry, we were approaching a place where a celebrated +_patois_ poet resided, who is the boast, not only of Agen, but of +Gascony, and who has made, of late, a great sensation in this part of +France. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + AGEN--LA BELLE ESTHER--ST. CAPRAIS--THE LITTLE CHERUBS--ZOE AT THE + FOUNTAIN--THE HILL--LE GRAVIER--JASMIN, THE POET-BARBER--THE + METAPHOR--LAS PAPILLOTAS--FRANCONNETTE--JASMIN'S LINES ON THE OLD + LANGUAGE--THE SHEPHERD AND THE GASCON POET--RETURN TO AGEN--JASMIN + AND THE KING OF FRANCE--JASMIN AND THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND. + + +IT was night when we reached Agen, and, amidst a tumult of _patois_, +which sounded like Spanish, and was strange to our unaccustomed ears, we +landed, and had our goods torn from us by peremptory porters, who, in +spite of remonstrance, piled every one's baggage together in carts, and, +ordering all the passengers to follow as they might, set off with it to +some unknown region. The stars were bright, and the night fine, as we +scrambled along over a very rugged road for more than a mile--for, the +new pier not being yet finished, the boat was obliged to land its cargo +at a distance from the town. Up and down, in and out, we pursued our +way, guided by the lanthorns of our tyrants, and at last found ourselves +in a boulevard, planted with large high trees, which we followed till a +shout announced to us that the Hotel de France was reached. + +By what seemed little less than a miracle, all our baggage was safely +brought after us, our troubles were quickly over, and we took possession +of spacious and lofty chambers, in a very imposing-looking hotel. + +The next morning the weather was magnificent, and Agen came out in great +splendour, with its fine promenades, handsome bridge, its beautiful +hills and river, and its fine clear fresh air, so different from the +dull atmosphere of Bordeaux. The first figure we saw on going out, was +one of the Rochellaises seated at the inn door, installed with her +oyster-baskets, and receiving the congratulations of all her friends of +the hotel, who hastened to welcome her annual return to Agen. It seems, +she takes up her abode at the hotel during her stay, and her arrival is +considered quite an event, as we found at breakfast, where numerous +Frenchmen were conversing with great animation on the subject. _La Belle +Esther_ seemed to be a general favourite, as well as her merchandise, +and she was so remarkably pretty, modest and graceful, that I was not +surprised at the fact. Every one of her admirers gave her an order as he +arrived, and her pretty little hands were busily engaged in opening +oysters for some time, which having done, she brought them in herself, +on a dish, to each guest. I was sorry to see that she had abandoned her +costume, and was dressed merely like any other _grisette_; but this is +very much the case everywhere. She told me, on great fete days, however, +she occasionally appeared in it; but she seemed to think it more +convenient to wear the little flat frilled cap of the town, rather than +the square winged machine of her province. I had heard before that she +was so well behaved, and so graceful in her manners, that she was +occasionally invited to the public balls of Agen; but she only answered +by a deep blush, when I asked if it was so; and said, she _seldom went +to soirees_. She is about three or four-and-twenty; and if the rest of +her party who sang to us in the boat were as pretty, they must have been +as dangerous as Queen Catherine's band of beauties, when their black +hoods were thrown back. She was, however, not one of the singers +herself; but I recognised, in her voice, the reproving sister who urged +Eugenie to sing, and told me of her mother's talent. I afterwards met +with more of my acquaintances in the dark, who were scattered through +the towns of Gascony. + +The town of Agen is very agreeably situated on the right bank of the +Garonne: the river is here, though by no means clear, less muddy than at +Bordeaux; and its windings add much to the beauty of the landscape. +Between the suspension-bridge and the town is a magnificent promenade, +formed of several rows of fine trees--one of the most majestic groves I +ever saw: it is called Le Gravier. There are two others, each extremely +fine: one of which is planted with acacias. The town has nothing to +recommend it, being dull, and ill-paved, with scarcely a building worthy +of notice; the strange old clock-tower of the Mairie, looks as if it had +once formed part of a ponderous building; but it has no beauty of +architecture. Some of the oldest streets and the market-place are built +with arcades, in the same fashion as La Rochelle, and they are very dark +and dilapidated. + +The cathedral, dedicated to St. Caprais, is, however, a monument of +which the Agenois have reason to be proud: it has been cruelly ill-used, +and its exterior is greatly damaged; but it is undergoing repair, and +the restorations both within and without are the most judicious I had +observed anywhere. The beautiful, ornamented, circular arches are +re-appearing in all their purity; and the fine sculptured facade is +shining out from the ruin which has long encompassed it; a wide space is +opened all round the building; and, when the restorations are completed, +the effect will be very grand. + +In the interior are some most beautiful specimens of early architecture; +galleries above galleries, of different periods, all exquisite, and one +row of a pattern such as I had never before met with, almost approaching +the Saracenic. The grace and lightness of the whole is quite unique, and +we sat for an hour enjoying the cool retreat of the aisle, endeavouring +to follow the elaborate tracery of the arches, and admiring the effect +of the sun-light streaming in at the open door, which gave entrance to a +procession of priests, and children of very tender age, who were about +to undergo the ordeal of examination. As we sat, by degrees, first one +little stray black-eyed creature, in a tight skull-cap and full +petticoat, then another, came and placed themselves before us, immovable +and curious, like so many tame gazelles; we pretended to be angry, and +drove them away; but, while we went on with our sketches of some of the +arches, the little things came back again with the same imperturbable +look of silent amazement and curiosity as before. There were four or +five, all very round and rosy-cheeked and pretty, and, though their +vicinity rather interrupted us, we were sorry when the zealous beadle +appeared, at the distant glimpse of whose portly form the troop rattled +off, making their wooden shoes ring along the pavement, and disappeared +in the sun-gleam of the old Roman door-way, like so many cherubs in the +costume of the Middle Ages. + +The morning was magnificent when we mounted the high hill which +overlooks the town, and which is called _Le Mont Pompeian_, or De +l'Ermitage; the banks were covered with box and purple heath and wild +thyme, the air full of freshness and fragrance, and all was "balmy +summer." The ascent to the top is extremely steep, and must be very +toilsome to the peasants, some of whom were climbing up, bending under +different loads. A party, however, who kept pace with us, told us they +were merely out taking a walk, as it was such a fine day, to do the +children good; and they seemed to enjoy the prospect and the warm sun as +much as we did, and be quite in the same humour for idling their time +away. On the top of the hill is a telegraph, from whence there is a +beautiful view; and the vine-field, full of ripe purple grapes, looked +very inviting; jasmine grew wild in the hedges, and perfumed the air; +and, altogether, the hills of Agen gave a promise of southern beauty, +which, alas! I found, on advancing nearer to Spain, was by no means +realized. We remained for some hours, choosing different retreats from +whence to enjoy the views, which are varied and beautiful in the +extreme. After passing fields of high Indian corn, gay with its +tasselled blossoms, we came to a splendid opening, where we beheld the +broad Garonne, winding through a landscape of great richness and +variety, glittering in the sun, and spreading wide its majestic arms +over the country. Through a long lane of purple grapes and crimson +leaves, we pursued our way, until we came to a ruined fountain, of very +picturesque appearance, extremely deep, and the water sparkling at the +bottom like a diamond in the dark; the mouth covered with shrubs and +flowers of every hue, and straggling vines, with their now purple and +crimson leaves, making a bower around it. Two women and a boy were +resting near, and we entered into conversation with them; there was +something interesting in the worn features of the younger female; who +told us she was from Le Mans, a great way off, in a charming country, +which she said, with a sigh, that she had not seen since she was a girl, +before she made the imprudent match which had reduced her to work hard +in the fields of Agen to support a large family; for her husband had +deserted her, and she had no one to look to. "I dare say," she said, "Le +Mans is much altered now, since I saw it; there is no chance of my ever +going home again now:" these words were uttered in so sad a tone that we +were quite affected. She had been very pretty, and was even now +agreeable-looking, though, so very pensive; her name, she told us, was +Zoe, and she seemed glad to hear news of her native town, though the +recollection revived, evidently, very painful thoughts. As we sat +drawing, these poor people remained wandering about, picking up sticks +and resting in the shade; the ground was damp, and the old woman--who +had asked her companion, in patois, the subject of her talk with us, as +she did not understand French--looked very benevolently towards us, and +presently took off her apron, and came insisting that we should use it +as a seat, as she said it was dangerous for such as us to sit on the +bare ground; "we are used to it, and it does us no harm; but you are +wrong to risk it," was her remark; and, with all the kindness +imaginable, she made us accept her courtesy. We have often met with +similar demonstrations of kind feeling from the peasantry in France; +who, when not spoilt by the town and trade, are generally amiable, and +anxious to oblige on all occasions. + +Nothing could be more lovely than the extensive view before us from this +spot; hills covered with vines and rich foliage, fields of Indian corn, +bright meadows and banks of glowing flowers, with the river winding +through all, wide and bright; the town, picturesque in the distance, +undulating hills, and a clear blue sky. At the end of a large field, we +came to a pretty bower, formed of vines, on the edge of the wooded +declivity; probably used as a retreat by the master and his family, in +the time of the vintage; it looked quite Italian, and we were not sorry +to shelter there from the hot sun. + +Half-way down from the telegraph hill is a cavern called the Hermitage, +which once was the retreat of a holy anchorite; but, being now chosen as +a place for fetes, has become a sort of cockney spot, and has lost its +character of solemnity; but it is the great object of attraction to the +inhabitants of Agen, who flock there in crowds on saints'-days and +Sundays. + +We had made an appointment, on our return from wandering amongst the +heights, to pay a visit to a very remarkable personage, who is held, +both in Agen and throughout Gascony, to be the greatest poet of modern +times. We had heard much of him before we arrived, and a friend of mine +had given me some lines of his with the music, in England; one song I +published in a recent work;[18] but I was not then aware of the history +of the author, of whom the ballad "Mi cal mouri!" was one of the +earliest compositions, and that which first tended to make him popular. +My friend, who possesses very delicate taste and discrimination, was +much struck with the grace and beauty of this song; though the +reputation of its author has reached its height since the time when she +first met with his melody. + +[Footnote 18: "Pilgrimage to Auvergne," chap, xiii, p. 210.] + +At the entrance of the promenade, Du Gravier, is a row of small +houses--some _cafes_, others shops, the indication of which is a painted +cloth placed across the way, with the owner's name in bright gold +letters, in the manner of the arcades in the streets, and their +announcements. One of the most glaring of these was, we observed, a +bright blue flag, bordered with gold; on which, in large gold letters, +appeared the name of "Jasmin, Coiffeur." We entered, and were welcomed +by a smiling dark-eyed woman, who informed us that her husband was busy +at that moment _dressing a customer's hair_, but he was desirous to +receive us, and begged we would walk into his parlour at the back of the +shop. There was something that struck us as studied in this, and we +began to think the reputation of the poet might be altogether a +_got-up_ thing. I was obliged to repeat to myself the pretty song of "Mi +cal mouri," to prevent incredulous doubts from intruding; but as I +recollected the sweet voice that gave the words effect, I feared that it +was that charm which had misled me. + +His wife, meantime, took the advantage of his absence, which had, of +course, been arranged _artistically_, to tell us of Jasmin's triumphs. +She exhibited to us a _laurel crown of gold_ of delicate workmanship, +sent from the city of Clemence Isaure, Toulouse, to the poet; who will +probably one day take his place in the _capitoul_. Next came a golden +cup, with an inscription in his honour, given by the citizens of Auch; a +gold watch, chain, and seals, sent by the King, Louis-Philippe; an +emerald ring worn and presented by the lamented Duke of Orleans; a pearl +pin, by the graceful duchess, who, on the poet's visit to Paris +accompanied by his son, received him in the words he puts into the mouth +of Henri Quatre.[19]-- + + "Brabes Gascous! + A moun amou per bous aou dibes creyre: + Benes! benes! ey plaze de bous beyre: + Aproucha bous!" + +A fine service of linen, the offering of the town of Pau, after its +citizens had given fetes in his honour, and loaded him with caresses and +praises; and nick-nacks and jewels of all descriptions offered to him +by lady-ambassadresses, and great lords; English "_misses_" and +"_miladis_;" and French, and foreigners of all nations who did or did +not understand Gascon. + +[Footnote 19: On his statue at Nerac.] + +All this, though startling, was not convincing; Jasmin, the barber, +might only be a fashion, a _furor_, a _caprice_, after all; and it was +evident that he knew how to get up a scene well. When we had become +nearly tired of looking over these tributes to his genius, the door +opened, and the poet himself appeared. His manner was free and +unembarrassed, well-bred, and lively; he received our compliments +naturally, and like one accustomed to homage; said he was ill, and +unfortunately too hoarse to read anything to us, or should have been +delighted to do so. He spoke in a broad Gascon accent, and very rapidly +and eloquently; ran over the story of his successes; told us that his +grandfather had been a beggar, and all his family very poor; that he was +now as rich as he wished to be, his son placed in a good position at +Nantes; then showed us his son's picture, and spoke of his disposition, +to which his brisk little wife added, that, though no fool, he had not +his father's genius, to which truth Jasmin assented as a matter of +course. I told him of having seen mention made of him in an English +review; which he said had been sent him by Lord Durham, who had paid him +a visit; and I then spoke of 'Mi cal mouri' as known to me. This was +enough to make him forget his hoarseness and every other evil: it would +never do for me to imagine that that little song was his best +composition; it was merely his first; he must try to read me a little of +l'Abuglo--a few verses of "Francouneto;"--"You will be charmed," said +he; "but if I were well, and you would give me the pleasure of your +company for some time; if you were not merely running through Agen, I +would kill you with weeping--I would make you die with distress for my +poor Margarido--my pretty Francouneto!" + +He caught up two copies of his book, from a pile lying on the table, and +making us sit close to him, he pointed out the French translation on one +side, which he told us to follow while he read in Gascon. He began in a +rich soft voice, and as he advanced, the surprise of Hamlet on hearing +the player-king recite the disasters of Hecuba, was but a type of ours, +to find ourselves carried away by the spell of his enthusiasm. His eyes +swam in tears; he became pale and red; he trembled; he recovered +himself; his face was now joyous, now exulting, gay, jocose; in fact, he +was twenty actors in one; he rang the changes from Rachel to Bouffe; and +he finished by delighting us, besides beguiling us of our tears, and +overwhelming us with astonishment. + +He would have been a treasure on the stage; for he is still, though his +first youth is past, remarkably good-looking and striking; with black, +sparkling eyes of intense expression; a fine ruddy complexion; a +countenance of wondrous mobility; a good figure; and action full of fire +and grace; he has handsome hands, which he uses with infinite effect; +and, on the whole, he is the best actor of the kind I ever saw. I could +now quite understand what a troubadour or _jongleur_ might be, and I +look upon Jasmin as a revived specimen of that extinct race. Such as he +is might have been Gaucelm Faidit, of Avignon, the friend of Coeur de +Lion, who lamented the death of the hero in such moving strains; such +might have been Bernard de Ventadour, who sang the praises of Queen +Elionore's beauty; such Geoffrey Rudel, of Blaye, on his own Garonne; +such the wild Vidal: certain it is, that none of these troubadours of +old could more move, by their singing or reciting, than Jasmin, in whom +all their long-smothered fire and traditional magic seems re-illumined. + +We found we had stayed hours instead of minutes with the poet; but he +would not hear of any apology--only regretted that his voice was so out +of tune, in consequence of a violent cold, under which he was really +labouring, and hoped to see us again. He told us our countrywomen of Pau +had laden him with kindness and attention, and spoke with such +enthusiasm of the beauty of certain "misses," that I feared his little +wife would feel somewhat piqued; but, on the contrary, she stood by, +smiling and happy, and enjoying the stories of his triumphs. I remarked +that he had restored the poetry of the troubadours; asked him if he knew +their songs; and said he was worthy to stand at their head. "I am, +indeed, a troubadour," said he, with energy; "but I am far beyond them +all; they were but beginners; they never composed a poem like my +Francounete! there are no poets in France now--there cannot be; the +language does not admit of it; where is the fire, the spirit, the +expression, the tenderness, the force of the Gascon? French is but the +ladder to reach to the _first floor_ of Gascon--how can you get up to a +height except by a ladder!" + +This last metaphor reminded me of the Irishman's contempt for an English +staircase in comparison to his father's ladder; and my devotion to the +troubadours and _early_ French poets received a severe shock by the +slight thrown on them by the bard of Agen. + +We left him, therefore, half angry at his presumption; and once out of +his sight I began again to doubt his merit, not feeling ready to accord +the meed of applause to conceit at any time; I forgot that Jasmin is a +type of his kind in all ways, and "is every inch" a _Gascon_. + +His poems, of which I am tempted to give some specimens, must speak for +him, although they necessarily lose greatly by transmission into a +language so different to the Gascon as English. The last volume he +published we brought away with us. It is called _Los Papillotos[20] de +Jasmin, coiffeur_, and contains a great many poems, all remarkable in +their way, even including those complimentary verses addressed to +certain "_Moussus," (Messieurs_.) + +[Footnote 20: The curl-papers.] + +The history of this singular person is told by himself in a series of +poems called "His recollections," which present a sad and curious +picture of his life in its different stages. It appears that Jacques +Jasmin, or as he writes it in Gascon, _Jaquou Jansemin_, was born in +1797 or 1798. + +"The last century, old and worn out," (says his eulogist, M. +Sainte-Beuve,) "had only two or three more years to pass on earth, when, +at the corner of an antique street, in a ruined building peopled by a +colony of rats, on the Thursday of Carnival week, at the hour when +pancakes are being tossed, of a hump-backed father and a lame mother was +born a child, a droll little object; and this child was the poet, +Jasmin. When a prince is born into the world, the event is celebrated by +the report of cannon; but he, the son of a poor tailor, had not even a +pop-gun to announce his birth. Nevertheless, he did not appear without +_eclat_, for at the moment he made his appearance, a _charivari_ was +given to a neighbour, and the music of marrowbones and cleavers +accompanied a song of thirty-stanzas, composed for the occasion by his +father. This father of his, who could not read, was a poet in his way, +and made most of the burlesque couplets for salutations of this +description, so frequent in the country. Behold, then, a poetical +parentage, as well established as that of the two Marots." + +The infant born under so auspicious an aspect, grew and throve in spite +of the poverty to which he was heir. He was allowed, when a few years +had passed over his head, to accompany his father in those concerts of +rough music to which he contributed his poetical powers; but the chief +delight of the future troubadour was to go, with his young associates, +into the willow islands of the Garonne to gather wood. + +"Twenty or thirty together, we used to set out, with naked feet and +bareheaded, singing together the favourite song of the south, 'The lamb, +that you gave me.' Oh! the recollection of this pleasure even now +enchants me." + +Their faggots collected, these little heroes returned to make bonfires +of them; on which occasion many gambols ensued. But, in the midst of the +joyous _escapades_ which he describes, he had his moments of sadness, +which the word "_school_" never failed to increase, for the passion of +his soul was to gain instruction, and the poverty of his family +precluded all hope. He would listen to his mother, as she spoke in +whispers to his grandfather, of her wish to send him to school; and he +wept with disappointment, to find such a consummation impossible. The +evidences of this destitution were constantly before him; his perception +of the privations of those dear to him became every day keener; and +when, after the fair, during which he had filled his little purse by +executing trifling commissions, he carried the amount to his mother, his +heart sank as she took it from him with a melancholy smile, +saying--"Poor child, your assistance comes just in time." Bitter +thoughts of poverty would thus occasionally intrude; but the gaiety of +youth banished them again, until one sad day the veil was wholly +withdrawn, and he could no longer conceal the truth from himself. He had +just reached his tenth year, and was one day playing in the square, when +he saw a chair, borne along by several persons, in which was seated an +old man: he looked up and recognised his grandfather, surrounded by his +family. He sprang towards him, and throwing himself into his arms, +exclaimed--"Where are they taking you, dear grandfather? why do you +weep? why do you leave us who love you so dearly?" "My son," replied the +old man, "I am going to the hospital; it is there that all the Jasmins +die." A few days after, the venerable man was no more, and from that +hour Jasmin never forgot that they were indeed poor. + +This melancholy incident closes the first canto of the poet's +"Recollections." The second opens with a description of his wretched +dwelling, and the scanty support gained by labour _and begging_, shared +by nine persons: his grandfather's wallet, from which he had so often +received a piece of bread, unknowing how it had been obtained, now hung +a sad memorial of his hard life, and told the story of his trials, when +he went round to his former friends, from farm to farm, in the hope of +filling it for a starving family. At last, one day, the ambitious mother +entered out of breath, announcing the joyous tidings that her son was +admitted _gratis_ into a free school. He became a scholar in a few +months, a chorister in a few more, his fine voice doubtless recommending +him; he gained a prize, and was in a fair way of advancement, when some +childish frolic, punished too severely, caused him to be expelled. On +reaching his home, he found all in consternation, for his bad conduct +had been visited on his family, and the portion of food sent to them +weekly he found was discontinued. His mother tried to console him, and +to conceal their real state; but while he saw his little brothers and +sisters provided with food, which, his mother smilingly dispensed, he +discovered to his horror that she no longer wore her ring: it had been +sold to buy bread. + +The second canto here finishes. The third introduces us to the hero in +his capacity of apprentice to the same craft of which he still +continues a member, and here his comparative prosperity begins. He falls +in love, writes verses, sings them, becomes popular, is able to open a +little shop on his own account, and burns the old arm-chair in which his +ancestors were carried to the hospital. His wife, who was at first an +enemy to pen and ink, finding the good effect of his songs, was soon the +first to urge him to write; his fellow-citizens became proud of him, his +trade increased, and at length he was able to purchase the house on the +promenade, where he now lives in comfort; with sufficient for his +moderate wishes, always following his trade of hair-cutting, and +publishing his poems at the same time. The first of his poems that +appeared was called "The Charivari." It is burlesque, and has +considerable merit: it is preceded by a very fine ode, full of serious +beauty and grace of expression; this was as early as 1825. Several +others of great beauty followed, and some of his songs became popular +beyond the region where they were first sung. But his finest composition +was a ballad, called "The Blind Girl of Castel-Cuille," which at once +crowned him with fame and loaded him with honours. + +The last volume he has published is that which I now introduce to the +reader: it contains, besides several already known, many new poems, and +a ballad, called "Francouneto," which is acknowledged as a successful +rival to "The Blind Girl." The rustic character of his descriptions, and +the rustic dialect in which they are conveyed, give a tone of novelty +and reality to his works quite peculiar to themselves. The force and +powerful effect of the Gascon language is lost in reading the French +version, appended to the original; but a very little attention will make +that original understood, and the reward well repays the study. + +The "Abuglo" (the Blind Girl) thus opens-- + + "Del pe d'aquelo haouto mountagno + Oun se pinquo Castel-Cuille; + Altenque lou poume, lou prune, l'amelle, + Blanquejabon dens la campagno, + Baci lou chan qu'on entendet, + Un dimecres mati, beillo de Sent-Jouzet." + +"At the foot of the high mountain, where Castle-Cuille stands in +mid-air, at the season when the apple-tree, the plum, and the almond, +are whitening all the country round, this is the song that was sung one +Wednesday morning, the eve of St. Joseph." + +Then comes the chorus, which is no invention of the poet, but a refrain +of the country, always sung at rustic weddings, in accordance with a +custom of strewing the bridal path with flowers: + + "The paths with buds and blossoms strew! + A lovely bride approaches nigh: + For all should bloom and spring anew, + A lovely bride is passing by." + +A description then follows of a rural wedding, introducing habits and +superstitions, which remind one of Burns and Hallow-e'en. This picture +of youth, gaiety, and beauty, is full of truth and nature; and the +contrast is affecting, of the desolate situation of the young blind +girl, who should have been the bride, but whom Baptiste, her lover, had +deserted for one richer, since a severe malady had deprived her of her +sight. Poor Marguerite (_Margarido_) still thinks him faithful, and +expects his return to fulfil his vow, when the sound of the wedding +music, and the explanation of her little brother, reveal to her all her +misfortune. The song of hope and fear, as she sits expecting him, is +extremely beautiful; and some of the expressions, in the original +singular yet musical Gascon, must lose greatly by translation, either in +French or English. Her lamentations on her blindness remind one of +Milton's heart-rending words on the same subject:-- + + "Jour per aoutres, toutjour! et per jou, malhurouzo, + Toutjour ney, toutjour ney!" + + "MARGARIDO'S REFLECTIONS." + + "After long months of sad regret + Returned!--return'd? and comes not yet? + Although to my benighted eyes + He knows no other star may rise: + He knows my lonely moments past, + Expecting, hoping to the last. + He knows my heart is faithful still, + I wait my vows but to fulfil. + + Alas! without him what have I? + Grief bows my fame and dims my eye; + For others, day and joy and light, + For me, all darkness--always night! + + "What gloom spreads round where he is not: + How cold, how lonely, he away! + But in his presence all forgot, + I never think of sun or day. + What has the day? a sky of blue-- + His eyes are of a softer hue, + That light a heaven of hope and love. + Pure as the skies that glow above. + But skies, earth, blindness, tears, and pain, + Are all forgot, unfelt, unknown, + When he is by my side again, + And holds my hand within his own!" + +When the unfortunate girl finds that her lover is untrue, despair takes +possession of her mind; she causes herself to be conducted to the +church, where the ceremony of the marriage is taking place; and at the +moment when Baptiste pronounces the words which seal his fate with that +of her rival, Angela, she rushes forward, and draws a knife to stab +herself; but at the instant she falls dead at his feet, before her hand +has accomplished the fatal blow. The poet here congratulates his heroine +on having died _without crime_, her _intention_ going for nothing, and +the angels bearing her soul to heaven as immaculate. + +There is little in the plot of this story--its beauty lies in the grace, +and ease, and simplicity of the language, and the pathos of the +situations. The same may be said of the ballad of "Francouneto," the +latest work of the author, which is just now making a great sensation in +France. The close of both these stories is somewhat weak and hurried, +and both fail in effect, except when Jasmin reads them himself,--then +there appears nothing to be desired. + +Franconnette is a village beauty and coquette, promised to Marcel, a +young soldier, but attached to Pascal, a peasant, whose poverty and +pride prevent his declaring the passion he feels for the volatile but +tender maiden, who + + "Long had fired each youth with love, + Each maiden with despair;" + +but, unlike the Emma of the English ballad, Franconnette is too +conscious of being fair, and torments her admirers to death. She +becomes, at length, the object of suspicion and hatred to her fellows, +in consequence of a rumour circulated by her disappointed lover, Marcel, +that her Huguenot father had sold her to the evil one, and that +misfortune awaited whoever should love or marry her. Some fearful scenes +ensue, in which the poet exhibits great power. The quarrel of the rivals +is managed with effect; and the rising of the peasantry against the +supposed bewitched beauty; the discovery of Pascal's love, and the +consequent revolution the knowledge effects in the mind of the deserted +girl; his tender devotion, her danger, and Marcel's subsequent remorse, +are admirably told; and, on the whole, the story of Franconnette must be +acknowledged as a great advance upon the "Aveugle;" and its superiority +promises greater things yet from the poet of Agen. + + "FRANCONNETTE'S MUSINGS. + + "On the parched earth when falls the earliest dew, + As shine the sun's first rays, the winter flown, + So love's first spark awakes to life anew, + And fills the startled mind with joy unknown. + The maiden yielded every thought to this-- + The trembling certainty of real bliss: + The lightning of a joy before unproved, + Flash'd in her heart, and taught her that she loved. + + "She fled from envy, and from curious eyes, + And dream'd, as all have done, those waking dreams, + Bidding in thought bright fairy fabrics rise + To shrine the loved one in their golden gleams. + Alas! the Sage is right, 'tis the distrest + Who dream the fondest, and who love the best!" + +But, perhaps, a better idea can be conveyed, by giving a version in +prose of the whole story. + + +The story of Franconnette. + +It was at the time when Blaise de Montluc, the sanguinary chief, struck +the Protestants with a heavy hand, and his sword hewed them in pieces, +while, in the name of a God of mercy, he inundated the earth with tears +and blood. + +At length he paused from fatigue: it was ended; no more did the hills +resound with the noise of carbine or cannon: the savage leader, to prop +the cross, which neither then nor now tottered, had slain, strangled, +filled the wells with slaughtered thousands. The earth gave back its +dead at Fumel and at Penne: fathers, mothers, children, were nearly +exterminated, and the executioners had time to breathe. + +The exhausted tiger--the merciless ruffian--dismounted from his charger, +re-entered his fortress, with its triple bridge, and its triple moat, +and, kneeling at the altar, uttered his devout prayers, received the +communion, while his hands were yet reeking with the blood of innocence +with which he had glutted his cruelty. + +Meantime, in the hamlets, young men and maidens, at first terrified at +the bare name of Huguenot, devoted their hours to love and amusement as +formerly. And in a village, at the foot of a strong castle, one Sunday, +a band of lovers were dancing on the votive feast of Roquefort, and, to +the sound of the fife, celebrated St. Jacques and the month of +August--that lovely month, which, by the freshness of its dew, and the +fire of its sun, ripens our figs and grapes. + +There had never been seen a finer fete. Under the large parasol of +foliage, where the crowd were every year seen in groups--all was full to +overflowing. From the heights of the rocks to the depths of the valleys, +from Montagnac and Sainte Colombe, new troops of visitors arrived; still +they come--still they come--and the sun is high in heaven, like a torch. +There is no lack of room where they are met, for the meadows here serve +for chambers, and the banks of turf for seats. + +What enjoyment!--the heat makes the air sparkle: nothing is more +pleasing than to see those fife-players blowing, and the dancers +whirling along. Cakes and sweetmeats are taken from baskets; fresh +lemonade! how eagerly the thirsty drink it down! Crowds hurry to see +Polichinelle--crowds hurry to the merchant whose cymbals announce his +treasures--crowds everywhere! But who is she advancing this way? Joy, +joy! It is the young Queen of the Meadows. It is she--it is +Franconnette. Let me tell you a little concerning her. + +In towns as well as in hamlets, you know there is always the pearl of +love, precious above all the rest; well, every voice united proclaim +her, in the canton, the Beauty of Beauties. + +But I would not have you imagine that she is pensive--that she +sighs--that she is pale as a lily--that she has languishing, half-closed +eyes, blue and soft--that she is slight, and bends with languor, like +the willow that inclines beside a clear stream. You would be greatly +deceived: Franconnette has eyes brilliant as two sparkling stars; one +might think to gather bunches of roses on her rounded cheeks; her +chestnut hair waves in rich curls; her mouth is like a cherry; her teeth +would make snow look dim; her little feet are delicately moulded; her +ankle is light and fine. In effect, Franconnette was the true star of +beauty in a female form, grafted here below. + +All these charms, too evident to all, caused ceaseless envy amongst the +young girls, and many sighs amongst the swains. Poor young enthusiasts, +there was not one who would not have died for her: they looked at +her--they adored her as the priest adores the cross. The fair one saw it +with delight; and her countenance was radiant with pride and pleasure. + +Nevertheless, she has a secret dawn of vexation; the finest flower is +wanting in her circlet of triumph. Pascal--the handsomest of all the +youths--he who sings the best--appears to avoid and to see her without +love. Franconnette is indignant at his neglect; she believes that he is +hateful to her, when she reflects on his conduct; she prepares a +terrible vengeance, and waits but the moment when, by a look, she shall +make him her slave for ever. + +Is it not always so! From all time a maiden so courted is sure to become +vain and proud; and, young as she is, it is easy to see she is like the +rest. Proud she was, to a certain degree, and a coquette she was +becoming--a rural one, however, not artful; she loved none, yet many +hoped she did. + +Her grandmother would often say to her--"My child, remember the country +is not the town--the meadow is not a ball-room; you know well that we +have promised you to the soldier, Marcel, who loves you, and expects you +to be his wife. You must conquer this fickleness of mind. A girl who +tries to attract all, ends by gaining none." + +A kiss and a laugh and a caress were the answer; and, while she bounded +away, she would sing, in the words of the song-- + + "I have time enough, dear mother, + Time enough to love him yet; + If I wait and choose no other, + All Love's art I should forget: + And if all is left for one, + 'Twere as well be loved by none." + +All this finished by creating much jealousy, suffering, and unhappiness; +nevertheless, these shepherds were not of those that make lays full of +grace and tenderness, and who, dying of grief, engrave their names on +poplars and willows. Alas! these shepherds could not write! besides +which, though Love had turned their heads, they preferred to suffer and +live on: but, oh! what confusion in the workshops!--oh, what ill-dressed +vines--what branches uncut!--what furrows all irregular! + +Now that you know this heedless little beauty, do not lose sight of +her;--there she is! see, how she glides along! now she dances with +Etienne the _rigaudon d'honneur_: every one follows her with straining +eyes and smiles: every one gives her glances of admiration. She loses +not one of their regards; and she dances with added grace. Holy cross! +holy cross! how she turns and winds, with her lizard-shaped head, and +her little Spanish foot, and her wasp-like waist!--when she slides, and +whirls, and leaps, and the breeze waves her blue handkerchief, what +would they not all give to impress two kisses on her pretty cheek! + +One will be so happy! for it is the custom to kiss your partner if you +can tire her out; but a young girl is never tired till she chooses to be +so; and, already, Guillaume, Louis, Jean, Pierre, Paul--she has wearied +them all: there they stand, out of breath, and can boast of having +gained no kiss of Franconnette. + +Another takes her hand: it is Marcel, her betrothed: a soldier, in +favour with the redoubted Montluc; he is tall and powerful; he wears a +sabre, a uniform, and has a cockade in his cap; he is as upright as a +dart; well made; bold, with a generous heart, but fiery and proud. +Presuming and intrusive--caring little to be invited, but ready to claim +whatever he pleases; a boaster, sportive but dangerous, _like a +caterpillar_. Marcel doating on Franconnette, flirts with all, +endeavours to rouse her jealousy, and has tales to tell of his +successes. + +Disgusted at his presumption, his betrothed dislikes, at length, to see +him; he perceives her repugnance, and, to revenge himself, proclaims +that he knows himself beloved; proud of having said it, he increases his +boasting; and, the other day, at a meeting, as he broke his glass, he +took an oath that no one but himself should have the privilege of +kissing Franconnette. + +It was curious to behold, as they danced together, how the crowd pressed +forward, anxious to see if the handsome soldier would gain the reward +which he boasted that none but he should obtain. + +At first he smiled, as he led her forward, and his eyes entreated hers; +but she remained mute and cold, and her activity appeared but to +increase. Marcel, piqued and annoyed, resolved to conquer her; and the +vain lover who would rather gain one kiss before all the world than +twenty granted in secret, exerts all his powers, leaps, hurries, whirls, +and, to fatigue her, would willingly give his sabre, his cap, his +worsted embroidery,--aye, if it had been all of gold instead! + +But when the game is displeasing, the maiden is strong to resist. Far +from giving in, Franconnette confuses, tires him, till his breath is +gone; passion exhausts him as much as her swiftness; his face becomes +crimson--he is ready to fall--he gives in. + +On goes the dance--Pascal stands in his place; he has scarcely made two +steps, and changed sides, when his pretty partner smiles, reels, pauses; +she is tired out, and she turns her blushing cheek to him--oh! she did +not wait long for his kiss. + +Instantly a shout is heard--clapping of hands in all directions: all +plaudits for Pascal, who stands confused and abashed. + +What a scene for the young soldier, who loved in good truth!--he +shuddered as he saw the kiss given; he rose, and drew himself up to his +full height. "Thou hast replaced me too quickly, peasant!" cried he, in +a thundering voice; and, to enforce his insulting words, he struck the +young man a violent blow. + +Heavens! how ready is pain to usurp the place of the sweetest pleasure! +A kiss and a blow! glory and shame! light and darkness! fire and ice! +life and death! heaven and hell! + +All this shook the mind of Pascal; but when a man is insulted, he can +revenge himself, though he is neither gentleman nor soldier. No. Look +upon him! the tempest is not more fearful. His eyes dart +lightning--thunder is in his voice--he raises his arm, and it descends +upon Marcel like a bolt. In vain the soldier seeks to draw his +sword--stands on his guard; Pascal, whose size seems to increase with +fury, seizes him by his waist, strains him in his grasp, and, with a +fierce gripe, forces him to the ground, where he dashes him, crushed and +senseless. + +"Hold!--the peasant grants your life!" cried Pascal, as he stood over +him. + +"Kill him!--you are wounded--you are all blood," exclaimed a hundred +voices. Pascal's blood flowed, he knew not how. + +"It is enough," he returned; "I pardon him now. The wicked man when +defeated excites only pity." + +"No, no--kill him, tear him to pieces," howled the enraged people. + +"Back, peasants, back!" cried a knight, spurring forward, to whom every +one gave way. It was Montluc, attracted to the spot by the tumult, as he +was passing with the Baron of Roquefort. + +But the fete was over--no more amusement: the young girls, terrified, +fled like hares, two by two, from the spot; the young men surrounding +Pascal--the handsome, brave Pascal--accompanied him on his way, as +though it was his wedding-day. Marcel, furious and discomfited, +struggled to renew the contest; but his lord's voice restrained him; a +word of command silenced him: he ground his teeth with rage, and cried-- + +"They love each other,--they will do everything to thwart me. This will +be but sport to her. 'Tis well; but by St. Marcel, my patron, they +shall pay dear for this jesting, and Franconnette shall be mine, and +none other's!" + + +PART II. + +One, two, three months passed away--all fetes, dances, games, and +harvest-homes; but all these gaieties must end with the falling leaves. +All things, in winter, assume a mournful aspect,--all beneath the vault +of heaven becomes aged. + +After nightfall no one now ventured out: all grouped themselves around +the bright hearth; for it was known that loup-garoux, and sorcerers +whose acts make the hair stand on end, and spread terror in house and +hut, now kept their sabbath beneath the naked elms, and round about the +straw-rick. + +At length, Christmas-morning shone, and Jean the crier hastened through +the town with his tambour, calling out, "Be ready, young maidens, at the +Buscou: a grand Winding meeting takes place on Friday, New Year's Eve." + +Oh! how the young girls and youths proclaimed in every quarter the news +of the old crier! his news was of that kind which, rapid as a bird, +lends wings to speech. Scarcely, therefore, was the air warmed by the +sun's rays, than his intelligence was spread from hearth to hearth, from +table to table, from cottage to cottage. + +Friday came; and, in the dusk of the evening, seated beside a cold +forge, a mother was complaining: and thus she spoke to her son:-- + +"Have you, then, forgotten the day when, before our shop, I saw you +arrive, with the sound of music, faint, wounded, and bleeding? I have +suffered much since, for the wound was envenomed; we feared you must +lose your arm. Let me entreat, go not out to-night--for I dreamt of +flowers--what do they always announce, Pascal?--but sorrows and tears." + +"Dear mother, you are too timid; all seems gloomy in your eyes; you know +Marcel comes no more amongst us; there is now no reason for your fears." + +"Take heed of yourself, nevertheless. The sorcerer of the Black Wood has +been wandering in this neighbourhood,--you recollect the great mischief +he did last year. Well, it is said that a soldier was seen to leave his +cave yesterday, at day-break. Should it be Marcel! Beware, my child. +Every mother gives relics to her child--take you mine, and oh, my son, +go not forth." + +"I only ask one little hour, to see my friend, Thomas." + +"Your friend!--ah, tell the truth, and say to see Franconnette; for you, +too, love her, like all the rest. You think I see it not--away!--I have +long read it in your eyes. You fear to distress me, you sing, you seem +gay; but you weep in secret, you suffer, you are wretched, and I am +unhappy for your sake. I pine away. Hold, Pascal! something tells me a +great misfortune awaits you. She has such power over those who love her, +one would say she was a witch; but with her magic what does she seek? +Can it be fortune?--it has been offered her twenty times, and she +refuses all; however, they say she now pretends to be attached to rich +Laurent de Brax, and they are soon to be betrothed. Oh, what confusion +she will make this evening, vain creature! Think no more of her, Pascal; +leave her, it is for your good;--hear me! she would hold a poor +blacksmith in contempt, whose father is old, infirm, and poor,--for we +are poor, indeed; alas! you know it well. We have parted with all; we +have only a scythe left. It has been a dark time with us since you fell +sick; now that you are well, go, dearest, and work. What do I say? we +can suffer still; rest yourself, if you please, but, for the love of +God, go not forth this evening." + +And the poor mother in despair wept, as she implored her son, who, +leaning against the forge, stifled a sigh which rose from his oppressed +heart, and said, "You are right, mother: I had forgotten all,--we are +poor, indeed. I will go and work." + +Two minutes after, the anvil was ringing; but whoever had seen how often +the young blacksmith struck the iron falsely, would have easily seen +that he thought of something besides the hammer he held in his hand. + +Meantime few had failed at the Buscou, and every one came from all parts +to divide their skein at the Fete of Lovers. + +In a large chamber, where already a hundred windles were turning, loaded +with flax, girls and youths, with nimble fingers, were winding thread as +fine as hair. + +It was soon all finished; and white wine and _rimottes_ were placed, +boiling, in glasses and basins, from which rose a burning smoke which +set the love-powder in a flame. If the prettiest there had been the most +rapid, I should have pointed out Franconnette; but the Queen of the +Games is the last at work, and this is the time when her reign begins. + +Only listen; how she amuses every one,--how she governs and regulates +all; one would say she had spirit enough for three. She dances, she +speaks, she sings; she is all-in-all. When she sings, you would say she +had the soul of the dove; when she talks, the wit of an angel: when she +dances, you would imagine she had, the wings of the swallow: and this +evening she sang, and danced, and talked--oh! it was enough to turn the +wisest head! + +Her triumph is complete; all eyes are upon her. The poor young men can +resist no more; and her bright eyes, which enchant them, shine and +sparkle as they see how the spell works. Then Thomas rose, and, looking +at the lovely coquette with tender glances, sang, in a flute-toned +voice, this new song: + + "Oh tell us, charming maid, + With heart of ice unmoved, + When shall we hear the sound + Of bells that ring around, + To say that you have loved? + Always so free and gay, + Those wings of dazzling ray, + Are spread to ev'ry air,-- + And all your favour share; + Attracted by their light, + All follow in your flight. + But, ah! believe me, 'tis not bliss, + Such triumphs do but purchase pain; + What is it to be loved like this, + To her who cannot love again? + + "You've seen how full of joy + We've marked the sun arise; + Even so each Sunday morn, + When you, before our eyes, + Bring us such sweet surprise, + With us new life is born: + We love your angel face, + Your step so debonaire, + Your mien of maiden grace, + Your voice, your lip, your hair: + Your eyes of gentle fire, + All these we all admire! + But, ah! believe me, 'tis not bliss, + Such triumphs do but purchase pain; + What is it to be loved like this, + To her who cannot love again. + + "Alas! our groves are dull, + When widowed of thy sight, + And neither hedge nor field + Their perfume seem to yield; + The blue sky is not bright: + When you return once more, + All that was sad is gone, + All nature you restore; + We breathe in you alone. + We could your rosy lingers cover + With kisses of delight all over! + But ah! believe me, 'tis not bliss, + Such triumphs do but purchase pain; + What is it to be loved like this, + To her who cannot love again! + + "The dove you lost of late, + Might warn you, by her flight; + She sought in woods her mate, + And has forgot you quite; + She has become more fair, + Since love has been her care. + 'Tis love makes all things gay, + Oh follow where he leads-- + When beauteous looks decay, + What dreary life succeeds! + And ah! believe me, perfect bliss, + A joy, where peace and triumph reign, + Is when a maiden loved like this, + Has learnt 'tis sweet to love again." + +The song is ended; and the crowd, delighted at its meaning, are full of +applause, and clap their hands in praise. + +"Heavens! what a song!--how appropriate! who composed so sweet a lay?" + +"It was Pascal," replied Thomas. + +"Bravo, Pascal,--long live Pascal!" was the general cry. + +Franconnette is silent; but she feels and enjoys it all,--she is proud, +and exults: she has the love of all--of all now. It is told her, a song +has been made for her; and she hears it sung before every one--yes, +every one knows she is the person meant. She thinks on Pascal, too, and +becomes grave. + +"He has no equal," she mused. "How brave he is! every one holds him in +esteem; all are on his side. How well he can paint love! doubtless they +all love him. And what a song! what tender meaning!" Not a word has +escaped her. "But, if he loves, why does he thus conceal himself?" She +turned to his friend, and exclaimed: + +"It seems long since we saw him. I would fain tell him how beautiful we +think his song. Where is he?" + +"Oh! he is obliged to stay at home," said Laurent, jealous and piqued. +"Pascal has no more time, methinks, for song making. Poor man! his ruin +is not far off; his father is infirm, and cannot leave his bed; he is in +debt everywhere; the baker refuses to trust him." + +Franconnette became very pale. "He--so amiable--so good! alas! he is +much to be pitied. Is he, then, indeed so wretched?" + +"Too true," said Laurent, affecting a compassionate air. "It is said he +lives on alms." + +"You have lied," cried Thomas: "may your tongue be blistered! Pascal is +unfortunate; and all has not gone well with him since he met that hurt +in the arm, for Franconnette; but he is well again; and, if no envious +person injures him, he will recover himself soon; for he has industry +and courage." Whoever had looked narrowly would have seen a tear in the +eye of Franconnette. + +The games begin: they sit in a circle; they play at _cache-couteau_. +Franconnette is challenged by Laurent: he claims the kiss which she has +forfeited. She flies like a bird from the fowler; he pursues; but, when +he has nearly reached her, he falls, and has broken his arm. + +A sudden gloom succeeds to gaiety; terror takes possession of all. When +suddenly a door opens, and an aged man, whose beard hangs to his girdle, +appears. He comes like a spectre: they start away in alarm; the Sorcerer +of the Black Wood stands before them. + +"Unthinking beings!" he exclaims, "I have descended from my rock to warn +you. You all fix your thoughts upon this girl, Franconnette, who is +accursed; for her father, while she was yet in her cradle, became a +Huguenot, and sold her to the devil. Her mother died of grief; and the +demon, who watches over that which is his, follows her everywhere in +secret. He has punished Pascal and Laurent, who have sought her. Be +warned; ill-fortune attends whoever would espouse her. The demon has +alone a claim to her possession; and her husband would fall a victim." + +The sorcerer ended: sparks of fire surrounded him, and showed his +wrinkled face more clearly: he turned four times round in a circle, and +disappeared. + +Every hearer seemed changed to stone. Franconnette alone showed signs of +life: she did not give way at once to the misfortunes which threatened +her: she hoped the scene would pass as a jest: she laughed +cheerfully--advanced towards her friends; but all drew back with a +shudder; all cried out, "Begone!" Then she felt she was abandoned; a +cold tremor came over her, and she fell senseless to the ground. + +Thus ended a fete which had begun so gaily. The next day--the first of +the year--the rumours of this event spread from house to house and from +meadow to meadow. + +Oh! the terror of the evil one, which at the present day scarcely +exists, at that time was fearful, particularly in the country. + +A thousand things were remembered, before never dreamt of: some had +heard in her cottage the noise of chains: her father had disappeared +mysteriously: her mother was said to have died mad: nothing ever failed +with her; her harvest always ripened first; and when hail destroyed +other fields, her's were full of grapes and corn. + +None hesitated to believe what was said; daughters, mothers, +grandmothers exaggerated the first reports; children trembled at her +name; and, at length, when the poor girl, with depressed brow, came +forth to seek necessaries for her aged relative, no one spoke to her: +all shrunk from her; or, pointing with their fingers, cried out--"Fly! +behold one sold to the demon!" + + +PART III. + +Beside the town of Estanquet, on the banks of a sparkling stream, whose +waters run bubbling all the year long over the pebbles, a beautiful girl +was gathering flowers, last year, amongst the turf: she sang so sweetly +and so joyously, that the birds were jealous of her voice and of her +song. + +Why does she sing no more? Hedges and meads are green again; the +nightingales come even into her garden to invite her to join their lays. +Where is she? Perhaps she is departed. But no; her straw hat lies on the +accustomed bench, but is no longer adorned with a bright ribbon: her +little garden is neglected: her hoe and rake lie on the ground amongst +the jonquils: the rose branches stray wildly; there are thistles at +their feet, and the little paths, which used to be so neat, are filled +with nettles. + +Something must have happened. Where is the lively maiden? Do you not +see her cottage shining white through the thick hazel branches? Let us +approach: the door is open; softly--let us enter. Ah! there, in her +arm-chair, sits the grandmother, asleep; and I see behind the window the +fair girl of Estanquet; but she is in grief--what can ail her? Tears are +falling on her little hand: some dark cloud has passed over her heart. + +Oh yes! dark indeed! for yonder sits Franconnette: there she sits, bowed +down with the blow which has overwhelmed her: she weeps in her chamber, +and her heart knows no relief. Young girls often weep, and forget their +sorrow quickly; but she----her grief is too deep, and it is one which +tears cannot soften. The daughter of a Huguenot! one banished from the +Church--sold to the demon! ah! it is too horrible! + +The grandmother tells her in vain--"My child, it is false!" She does not +listen: there is none but her father can resolve her doubts, and prove +to her that it is not true; but no one knows his place of abode; she is +alone--she is terrified--oh! so terrified, that she believes it. + +"What a change!" she cries. "I who, but now, was so happy--I, who was +Queen of the Meadows and could command all--I, for whom every youth +would have gone barefooted amongst a nest of serpents--to be contemned, +avoided, the terror of the country! And Pascal--he also flies me, as if +I were a pest: yet I pitied him in his wretchedness; perhaps he has no +pity to bestow on me." + +It was not so; and she has yet some comfort in her misery: she learns +that Pascal is her defender: this is a balm to her wounded spirit; and, +as her only relief, she thinks of him often. Suddenly she hears a cry; +she flies to her grandmother, who has just waked from sleep: "The fire +is not here; the walls do not burn! Oh God, what a mercy!" + +"What were you dreaming, dear grandmother--answer me--what is it?" +"Unfortunate girl! I dreamt it was night; brutal men came to our house, +and set it on fire. You cried; you exerted yourself to save me, but you +could not, and we both were burnt. Oh, I have suffered much! come to my +arms! let me embrace my child!" + +And the aged woman strained her in her withered arms, and pressed her +tenderly to her heart, her white hair mingling with the golden ringlets +of Franconnette. "Dearest," said she, "your mother, the day of her +marriage, came from the castle a bride; her dower came from thence; and +thus we are not rich from the demon; every one must know that. It is +true that while you were an infant, my angel, and yet in the cradle, we +heard every night a strange noise, and we found you always out of the +cradle; and on the edge of your little bed three drops of blood +appeared; but we said a prayer, and they disappeared; does not this +prove that you are not sold to the evil one? Some envious person has +invented this. Be of good cheer, and do not weep like a child; you are +more lovely than ever: show yourself again: let your beauty once more +appear. Those who hide from envy give the wicked more space. Besides, +Marcel still loves you; he has sent secretly to say he is your's when +you will--you love him not! Marcel will be your protector; I am too old +to guard you. Hearken! to-morrow is Easter-day; go to mass, and pray +more fervently than of late; take some of the blessed bread, and sign +yourself with the cross. I am certain that God will restore your lost +happiness, and will prove, by your countenance, that He has not erased +you from the number of those He calls his own." + +The hope she had conjured up irradiated the face of the poor woman; her +child hung round her neck, and promised to do her bidding; and peace was +restored for a while to the little white cottage. + +The next day, when the Hallelujah was ringing from the bells of St. Pe, +great was the astonishment of all to behold Franconnette kneeling with +her chaplet in the church,--her eyes cast down in prayer. + +Poor girl! well might she pray to be spared; there was not a young +woman who spared her as she passed: the less so, that Marcel and Pascal +appeared to feel pity for her. They were very cruel to her; not one +would remain near; so that she found herself, at last, kneeling alone in +the midst of a wide circle, like one condemned who has a mark of shame +on his forehead. Her mortification is not yet complete, for the uncle of +Marcel--the churchwarden, who wears a vest of violet with large +skirts--the tall man who offers the blessed bread at Easter--passes on +when she puts out her hand to take her portion, and refuses to allow her +to share the heavenly meal. + +This was terrible! She believes that God has really abandoned her, and +would drive her from His temple; she trembles, and sinks back nearly +fainting; but some one advances--it is he who asks to-day for the +offerings; it is Pascal, who had never quitted her with his looks, who +had seen the meaning glance which passed between the uncle and +nephew--he advances softly, and taking from the shining plate that part +of the bread which is crowned with a garland of choice flowers, presents +it to Franconnette. + +What a moment of delicious joy to her! Her blood runs free again; she +feels no longer frozen to stone; her soul had trembled; but it seems as +if the bread of the living God, as she touched it, had restored her +life. But why is her cheek so covered with blushes? It is because the +Angel of Love had, with his breath, drawn forth the flame that slept in +her heart; it is that a feeling, new, strange, subtle, like fire, sweet +as honey, rises in her soul, and makes her bosom beat. Oh! it is that +she lives with another life. Now, she knows herself; she feels what she +really is: now she understands the magic of love. The world--the +priest--all disappears; in the temple of the Lord there is but a human +creature she beholds--the man she loves--the man to whom she had +faltered her thanks. + +Now, let us quit all the envy and jealousy that might be seen exhibited +on the way-side from St. Pe, and the triple scandal of cruel tongues; +let us follow Franconnette, who carries home to her grandmother the +blessed bread crowned with its garland, and who, having given it into +her hands, retires to her chamber _alone with her love_! + +First drop of dew in the time of drought, first ray of sun-light in +winter, thou art not more welcome to the bosom of the parched earth in +sadness, than this first flame of affection to the awakened heart of the +tender girl! Happy--overwhelmed--she forgets herself, and, by degrees, +gives up all her being to the new, rapturous delight of loving! + +Then, far from the noise of evil tongues, she did what we all do; she +dreamt with unclosed eyes, and without stone or implements she built +herself a little castle, where, with Pascal, all was shining, all was +brilliant, all was radiant with happiness. Oh! the sage is right--the +soul in affliction loves the strongest! + +She gave herself up entirely to her love; she feels she loves for ever, +and all in nature seems to smile for her. But the honey of love too soon +becomes bitter. Suddenly, she recollects herself--she shudders--she +becomes as if frozen. At the stroke of a fearful thought, all her little +castle is demolished. Alas! wretched girl, she dreamt of love, and love +is forbidden to her. Did not the sorcerer say she was sold to the evil +one, and that man bold enough to seek her would find only death in the +nuptial chamber? She! must she behold Pascal dead before her? + +Mercy, oh God! oh God, pity! + +And, bathed in tears, the poor child fell on her knees before an image +of the Virgin. + +"Holy Virgin," said she, "without thy aid I am lost; for I love deeply. +I have no parents, and they say I am sold to the demon. Oh, take pity on +me! save me, if it be true: and if it is but the saying of the wicked, +let my soul know the truth; and when I offer thee my taper at the altar +of Notre Dame, prove to me that my prayer is accepted." + +A short prayer, when it is sincere, soon mounts to heaven. She felt +certain that she was heard; but she thought constantly of her project, +though at times she shuddered, and fear rendered her mute; still hope +would come like a lightning flash in the night, and satisfy her heart. + + +PART IV. + +At length the day arrived so feared and so desired. At day-break long +lines of young girls, all in white, extended in all directions, and +advanced to the sound of the bells; and Notre Dame, in the midst of a +cloud of perfume, proudly looked down on three hamlets in one. + +What censers! what crosses! what nosegays! what tapers! what banners! +what pictures! Then come all Puymirol, Artigues, Astafort, Lusignan, +Cardonnet, Saint Cirq, Brax, Roquefort; but those of Roquefort, this +year, are the first--the most numerous: and to see them in particular +the curious hastened forward, for everywhere, in all places, the story +of the young girl sold to the demon spread, and it is known that to-day +she comes to pray to the Virgin to protect her. + +Her misfortune has inspired pity amongst them; every one looks at her +and laments; they trust that a miracle will be operated in her favour, +and that the Virgin will save her. She sees the feeling that she has +inspired, and rejoices; her hope becomes stronger; "the voice of the +people is the voice of God." + +Oh, how her heart beats as she enters the church! everywhere within the +walls are pictures of the Virgin's mercy and indulgence; mothers in +grief, young people in affliction, girls without parents, women without +children--all are kneeling with tapers before the image of the Mother of +heaven, which an aged priest in his robes allows to touch their lips, +and afterwards blesses them. + +No sign of ill has occurred, and they believe; all, as they rise, depart +with a happy hope, and Franconnette feels the same, particularly when +she sees Pascal praying devoutly; then she has courage to look the +priest in the face. It appears as if love, music, the lights, the +incense--all was united to assure her of pardon. + +"Pardon! pardon!" murmured she, "oh, if that were mine! and Pascal"-- + +She lighted her taper in order, and, the light and her bouquet in her +hand, she took her place. Every one, from compassion, made way that she +might kneel the foremost. The silence is breathless; there is neither +movement nor gesture; all eyes are turned on her and on the priest; he +takes the sacred image, and holds it forth to her; but scarcely has it +touched the lips of the orphan when a loud peal of thunder shakes the +church, and rolls away in the distance; her taper is extinguished, and +three of those on the altar! + +Her taper is extinct--her prayer rejected--she is accursed! + +Oh, God! it is, then, indeed true! she has been dedicated to the evil +one, and is abandoned of Heaven! + +A murmur of terror spread through the crowd; and when the unfortunate +girl rose, pale and wild and breathless with horror, all drew back, +shuddering, and let her pass. The thunder-clap had begun the storm; +fearfully it burst afterwards over Roquefort; the belfry of St. Pierre +was destroyed, and the hail driving over the country, swept all away but +those who wept to see the ravage. + +And the pilgrims returned, all ready to relate the disaster they had +seen; they returned all--except one--and sang _Ora pro nobis_. + +Then, to cross the perilous waters, Agen did not possess as now--to make +other towns jealous--three great bridges, as though it were a royal +town. Two simple barks, urged by two oars, carried persons from one side +to the other; but scarcely have they reached the opposite shore, and +formed themselves in lines, than the news of the terrible event reaches +them. At first, they scarcely credit its extent; but when they advance, +and behold the vines and the fields desolated, then they tremble and are +seized with despair, and cries of "Misery!" and "Misfortune!" rend the +air. + +Suddenly a voice exclaims, "Franconnette is saved while we are ruined!" +the word acts like a spark to gunpowder. + +"The wretch!--drive her out!--she brings us evil--it is true--she is the +cause of all--she may do us more harm!" + +And the crowd clamoured louder and grew more furious. One cried, "Let us +drive her from us! cursed as she is, let her burn in flames like the +_Huguenot_, her father!" + +The coldest became infuriated: "Let her be driven forth!" cried all. + +To see them thus enraged, with flaming eyes, clenched hands and teeth, +it seemed as if Hell inspired them, and that its influence came with the +breeze of night, and breathed into their veins the venom of fury. + +Where was Franconnette? alas! in her cottage, half-dead--cold as marble! +holding firmly in her tightened and convulsive grasp the faded wreath +given her by Pascal. + +"Poor garland!" said she; "when I received you from him your perfume +told of happiness, and I inhaled it; relic of love! I bore you in my +bosom, where you soon faded like my vain dreams. Dear Pascal, farewell! +my torn heart weeps to resign thee, but I must say adieu for ever! I was +born in an evil hour; and, to save thee from my influence, I must +conceal my love. Yet I feel this day thou art dearer than ever; I love +with an affection never to be extinguished--with a devotion which is +bliss or death on earth; but death is nothing to me if it could save +thee!" + +"Why do you moan thus, Franconnette?" cried out her grandmother; "you +told me, with a cheerful air, that the Virgin had received your offering +and you were content; yet I hear you sob like a soul in pain; you +deceive me, something has happened to you to-day." + +"Oh, no; be content, grandmother; I am happy--very happy." + +"'Tis well, my love; for your sorrow wrings my heart; to-day again I +passed some fearful hours; this dream of fire recurs so often in spite +of myself; and the storms alarm me; hark! I tremble at every sound." + +What cries are those so near and so loud? "Fire them! burn them! let +them burn together!" A flash bursts through the old shutters; +Franconnette rushes to the casement. Great Heaven! she sees the rick on +fire, and a furious mob howling outside. + +"We must drive them out--the old hag and the young one; both have +bewitched us!--Hence! child of perdition! hence, or burn in thy den!" + +Franconnette on her knees, with streaming eyes, exclaims, "Oh, pity for +my poor old grandmother--do not kill her!" + +But the deluded populace, more confirmed than ever, by her haggard +looks, that she is possessed, howl louder still--"Away with her!" and +on they rush, brandishing flaming brands. + +"Hold--hold!" cried a voice, and Pascal sprang amongst them. "Cowards! +would you murder two defenceless women! would you burn their dwelling, +as if they had not suffered enough--tigers, that you are--already the +walls are hot!" + +"Let the Huguenots quit the country: they are possessed by the demon. If +they stay amongst us God will send down punishment. Let them go +instantly, or we burn them!--Who presses forward there?" + +"Ha!" cried Pascal, "Marcel here! he is her enemy!" + +"Liar!" cried Marcel; "I love her better than thou, boaster as thou art! +What wilt thou do for her--thou whose heart is so soft?" + +"I come to assist her--to defend her." + +"And I to be her husband, in spite of all, if she will be my wife." + +"I come for the same purpose," cried Pascal, without shrinking from his +rival's regard; then turning to Franconnette, he said, with firmness, +"Franconnette, you are safe no longer; these wretches will pursue you +from village to village; but here are two who love you--two who would +brave death, destruction, for your sake--can you choose between us?" + +"Oh, no, no! speak not of marriage. Pascal! my love is death--go! +forget me! be happy without me! I dare not be yours!" + +"Happy without you! it is in vain: I love you too well; and if it be +true that you are the prey of the evil one, 'twere better die with you +than live away from you!" + +Doubtless, the beloved voice has power above all things over the +softened heart: at the last step of misery we can dare all with +desperate courage. Before the assembled crowd she exclaimed: "Oh, yes, +Pascal, I do love you--I would have died alone; but, since you will have +it so, I resist no longer. If it is our fate--we will die together." + +Pascal is in heaven--the crowd amazed--the soldier mute. Pascal +approaches him. "I am," he said, "more fortunate than you; but you are +brave, and will forgive me. To conduct me to my grave,[21] I require a +friend--I have none--will you act the part of one?" + +[Footnote 21: Pascal conceives that, in wedding Franconnette, he is +devoted to death.] + +Marcel is silent--he muses--a great struggle is in his heart--his eye +flashes--his brow is bent strongly--he gazes on Franconnette, and the +paleness of death creeps over him--he shakes off his faintness, and +tries to smile. "Since it is her will," he cries, "I will be that +friend." + +Two weeks had passed,--and a wedding train descended the green hill. In +the front of the procession walked the handsome pair. A triple range of +people, from all quarters, extended for more than a league: they were +curious to know the fate of Pascal. Marcel is at the head of all; he +directs all; there is a secret pleasure in his eye, which none can +understand. One would say that to-day he triumphs; he insists on +arranging the marriage, and it is he who gives to his rival the feast +and the ball--his money flows liberally, his purse is open--all is +profusion; but there is no rejoicing--no singing--no smiling. + +The bridegroom is on the brink of the grave--his rival guides him +thither, though he looks so gay--the day declines--all hearts sink with +fear and pity--they would fain save Pascal, but it is too late: there +they all stand motionless--but more as if at a burial than a wedding. + +Fascinated by love, the pair have sacrificed all; though the gulf yawns +for them, they have no ears, no eyes, but for each other; as they pass +along, hand-in-hand, the happiness of loving has absorbed all other +feeling. + +It is night. + +A female suddenly appears: she clings round the neck of Pascal.--"My +son, leave her, leave your bride--I have seen the wise woman--the sieve +has turned--your death is certain--sulphur fills the bridal +chamber--Pascal, enter not in--you are lost if you remain; and I, who +loved you thus, what will become of me when you are gone?" + +Pascal's tears flowed, but he held still firmer his bride's hand within +his own. The mother fell at his feet. + +"Ungrateful son! I will never leave you! if you persist, you shall pass +over my body before you enter the fatal house. A wife, then, is +all-in-all--a mother nothing! Oh! miserable that I am!" Tears flowed +from every eye.--"Marcel," said the bridegroom, "love masters me; should +evil befal me, take charge of my mother." + +"This is too much!" cried the soldier; "I cannot bear your mother's +grief. Oh, Pascal! be blest--be content--be fearless--Franconnette is +free! she is not sold to the evil one. It is a falsehood--a mere tale +made for a purpose. But had not your mother overcome me by her tears, +perhaps we should both have perished. You know--you can feel--how much I +love her; like you, I would give my life for her. I thought she loved +me, for she had my very soul--all! Yet she rejected me, though she knows +we were betrothed. I saw there was no way--I devised a plan--I hired the +sorcerer to raise a terror amongst all; he forged a fearful tale, chance +did the rest. I thought her then securely my own; but when we both +demanded her--when for you she braved everything--when she at once +confessed how dear you were, it was beyond my power to bear. I resolved +that we should both die; I would have conducted you to the bridal +chamber--a train is laid there: all three were to have been victims; I +would have bid you cease to fear the demon, but behold in me your +foe!--but it is past, the crime I had meditated is arrested. Your mother +has disarmed me; she reminds me of my own. Live, Pascal, for your +mother! you have no more to fear for me. I have now no one; I will +return to the wars; it were better for me that, instead of perishing +with a great crime on my conscience, a bullet should end my life." + +He spoke no more, and rushed from their presence: the air resounded with +shouts, and the happy lovers fell into each other's arms: the stars at +that moment shone out. Oh! I must cast down my pencil--I had colours for +sorrow--I have none for such happiness as theirs! + + +Lines by Jasmin + +ADDRESSED TO M. DUMON, DEPUTY, WHO HAD CONDEMNED OUR OLD LANGUAGE. + + THERE'S not a deeper grief to man + Than when his mother, faint with years, + Decrepit, old, and weak, and wan, + Beyond the leech's art appears; + When by her couch her son may stay, + And press her hand and watch her eyes, + And feel, though she revive to-day, + Perchance his hope to-morrow dies. + + It is not thus, believe me, sir, + With this enchantress--she we call + Our second mother: Frenchmen err, + Who, cent'ries since, proclaim'd her fall! + Our mother-tongue--all melody-- + While music lives, can never die. + + Yes!--she still lives, her words still ring; + Her children yet her carols sing: + And thousand years may roll away, + Before her magic notes decay. + + The people love their ancient songs, and will, + While yet a people, love and keep them still: + These lays are as their mother; they recal, + Fond thoughts of mother, sister, friends, and all + The many _little things_ that please the heart-- + The dreams, the hopes, from which we cannot part: + These songs are as sweet waters, where we find, + Health in the sparkling wave that nerves the mind. + In ev'ry home, at ev'ry cottage door, + By ev'ry fireside, when our toil is o'er, + These songs are round us, near our cradles sigh, + And to the grave attend us when we die. + + Oh! think, cold critics! 'twill be late and long, + Ere time shall sweep away this flood of song! + + There are who bid this music sound no more, + And you can hear them, nor defend--deplore! + You, who were born where its first daisies grew, + Have fed upon its honey, sipp'd its dew, + Slept in its arms and wakened to its kiss, + Danced to its sounds, and warbled to its tone-- + You can forsake it in an hour like this! + --Yes, weary of its age, renounce--disown-- + And blame one minstrel who is true--alone! + + For me, truth to my eyes made all things plain; + At Paris, the great fount, I did not find + The waters pure, and to my stream again + I come, with saddened and with sobered mind; + And since, no more enchanted, now I rate + The little country far above the great. + + For you--who seem her sorrows to deplore, + You, seated high in power, the first among, + Beware! nor make her cause of grief the more; + Believe her mis'ry, nor condemn her tongue. + Methinks you injure where you seek to heal, + If you deprive her of that only weal. + + We love, alas! to sing in our distress; + It seems the bitterness of woe is less; + But if we may not in our language mourn, + What will the polish'd give us in return? + Fine sentences, but all for us unmeet-- + Words full of grace, even such as courtiers greet: + A deck'd-out Miss, too delicate and nice + To walk in fields, too tender and precise + To sing the chorus of the poor, or come + When Labour lays him down fatigued at home. + + To cover rags with gilded robes were vain-- + The rents of poverty would show too plain. + + How would this dainty dame, with haughty brow, + Shrink at a load, and shudder at a plough! + + Sulky, and piqued, and silent would she stand + As the tired peasant urged his team along: + No word of kind encouragement at hand, + For flocks no welcome, and for herds no song! + + Yet we will learn, and you shall teach-- + Our people shall have double speech: + One to be homely, one polite, + As you have robes for diff'rent wear, + But this is all:--'tis just and right, + And more our children will not bear. + Lest we a troop of buzzards own, + Where nightingales once sang alone. + + There may be some, who, vain and proud, + May ape the manners of the crowd, + Lisp French, and lame it at each word, + And jest and gibe to all afford:-- + But we, as in long ages past, + Will still be poets to the last! + + Hark! and list the bridal song, + As they lead the bride along: + "Hear, gentle bride! your mother's sighs,[22] + And you would hence away!-- + Weep, weep, for tears become those eyes." + ----"I cannot weep--to-day." + + Hark! the farmer in the mead + Bids the shepherd swain take heed: + "Come, your lambs together fold, + Haste, my sons! your toil is o'er: + For the morning bow has told + That the ox should work no more." + + Hark! the cooper in the shade + Sings to the sound his hammer made: + + "Strike, comrades, strike! prepare the cask, + 'Tis lusty May that fills the flask: + Strike, comrades! summer suns that shine + Fill the cellars full of wine." + + Verse is, with us, a charm divine, + Our people, loving verse, will still, + Unknowing of their art, entwine + Garlands of poesy at will. + Their simple language suits them best: + Then let them keep it and be blest. + + But let wise critics build a wall + Between the nurse's cherish'd voice, + And the fond ear her words enthral, + And say their idol is her choice: + Yes!--let our fingers feel the rule, + The angry chiding of the school; + True to our nurse, in good or ill, + We are not French, but Gascon still. + + 'Tis said that age new feeling brings, + Our youth returns as we grow old; + And that we love again the things, + Which in our memory had grown cold. + If this be true, the time will come + When to our ancient tongue, once more, + You will return, as to a home, + And thank us that we kept the store. + + Remember thou the tale they tell, + Of Lacuee and Lacepede,[23] + When age crept on, who loved to dwell, + On words that once their music made: + And, in the midst of grandeur, hung, + Delighted, on their parent tongue. + + This, will you do: and it may be, + When, weary of the world's deceit, + Some summer-day we yet may see + Your coming in our meadows sweet; + Where, midst the flowers, the finch's lay + Shall welcome you with music gay. + While you shall bid our antique tongue + Some word devise, or air supply, + Like those that charm'd your youth so long + And lent a spell to memory! + + Bethink you how we stray'd alone, + Beneath those elms in Agen grown, + That each an arch above us throws, + Like giants, hand-in-hand, in rows. + + A storm once struck a fav'rite tree, + It trembled, shook, and bent its boughs,-- + The vista is no longer free: + Our governor no pause allows. + "Bring hither hatchet, axe, and spade, + The tree must straight be prostrate laid!" + + But vainly strength and art were tried, + The stately tree all force defied. + Well might the elm resist and foil their might, + For though his branches were decay'd to sight, + As many as his leaves the roots spread round, + And in the firm set earth they slept profound! + + Since then, more full, more green, more gay, + His crests amidst the breezes play: + And birds of ev'ry note and hue + Come trooping to his shade in Spring, + Each Summer they their lays renew, + And while the year endures they sing. + + And thus it is, believe me, sir, + With this enchantress--she we call + Our second mother; Frenchmen err, + Who, cent'ries since, proclaim'd her fall. + + No: she still lives, her words still ring; + Her children yet her carols sing, + And thousand years may roll away + Before her magic notes decay. + +[Footnote 22: Jasmin here quotes several _patois_ songs, well known in +the country.] + +[Footnote 23: Both Gascons.] + + THE SHEPHERD AND THE GASCON POET. + + To the Bordelais, on the grand Fete given me at the Casino. + + IN a far land, I know not where, + Ere viol's sigh, or organ's swell, + Had made the sons of song aware + That music is a potent spell, + A shepherd to a city came, + Play'd on his pipe, and rose to fame. + He sang of fields, and at each close + Applause from ready hands arose. + + The simple swain was hail'd and crown'd + In mansions where the great reside, + And cheering smiles and praise he found, + And in his heart rose honest pride: + All seem'd with joy and rapture gleaming,-- + He trembled that he was but dreaming. + + But, modest still, his soul was moved; + Yet of his hamlet was his thought,-- + Of friends at home, and her he loved,-- + When back his laurel-branch be brought: + And, pleasure beaming in his eyes, + Enjoy'd their welcome and surprise. + + 'Twas thus with me, when Bordeaux deign'd + To listen to my rustic song; + Whose music praise and honour gain'd + More than to rural strains belong. + + Delighted, charm'd, I scarcely knew + Whence sprung this life so fresh and new. + And to my heart I whisper'd low, + When to my fields return'd again, + "Is not the Gascon Poet now + As happy as the shepherd swain?" + + The minstrel never can forget + The spot where first success he met; + But he, the shepherd who, of yore, + Had charm'd so many a list'ning ear, + Came back, and was beloved no more;-- + He found all changed and cold and drear! + A skilful hand had touch'd _the flute_;-- + His _pipe_ and he were scorn'd--were mute. + + But I, once more I dared appear, + And found old friends as true and dear-- + The mem'ry of my ancient lays + Lived in their hearts--awoke their praise. + Oh! they did more;--I was their guest; + Again was welcomed and caress'd: + And, twined with their melodious tongue, + Again my rustic carol rung; + And my old language proudly found + Her words had list'ners, pressing round. + Thus, though condemn'd the shepherd's skill, + The Gascon Poet triumph'd still. + +I returned by Agen, after an absence in the Pyrenees of some months, and +renewed my acquaintance with Jasmin and his dark-eyed wife. I did not +expect that I should be recognised; but the moment I entered the little +shop I was hailed as an old friend. "Ah!" cried Jasmin, "enfin la voila +encore!" I could not but be flattered by this recollection, but soon +found it was less on my own account that I was thus welcomed, than +because a circumstance had occurred to the poet which he thought I could +perhaps explain. He produced several French newspapers, in which he +pointed out to me an article headed "Jasmin a Londres;" being a +translation of certain notices of himself, which had appeared in a +leading English literary journal.[24] He had, he said, been informed of +the honour done him by numerous friends, and assured me his fame had +been much spread by this means; and he was so delighted on the occasion, +that he had resolved to learn English, in order that he might judge of +the translations from his works, which, he had been told, were well +done. I enjoyed his surprise, while I informed him that I knew who was +the reviewer and translator; and explained the reason for the verses +giving pleasure in an English dress, to be the superior simplicity of +the English language over modern French, for which he has a great +contempt, as unfitted for lyrical composition. He inquired of me +respecting Burns, to whom he had been likened; and begged me to tell him +something of Moore. The delight of himself and his wife was amusing, at +having discovered a secret which had puzzled them so long. + +[Footnote 24: The Athenaeum.] + +He had a thousand things to tell me; in particular, that he had only the +day before received a letter from the Duchess of Orleans, informing him +that she had ordered a medal of her late husband to be struck, the first +of which would be sent to him: she also announced to him the agreeable +news of the king having granted him a pension of a thousand francs. He +smiled and wept by turns, as he told all this; and declared, much as he +was elated at the possession of a sum which made him a rich man for +life, the kindness of the duchess gratified him even more. + +He then made us sit down while he read us two new poems; both charming, +and full of grace and _naivete_; and one very affecting, being an +address to the king, alluding to the death of his son. As he read, his +wife stood by, and fearing we did not quite comprehend his language, she +made a remark to that effect: to which he answered impatiently, +"Nonsense--don't you see they are in tears." This was unanswerable; and +we were allowed to hear the poem to the end; and I certainly never +listened to anything more feelingly and energetically delivered. + +We had much conversation, for he was anxious to detain us, and, in the +course of it, he told me that he had been by some accused of vanity. +"Oh!" he rejoined, "what would you have! I am a child of nature, and +cannot conceal my feelings; the only difference between me and a man of +refinement is, that he knows how to conceal his vanity and exultation at +success, which I let everybody see." + +His wife drew me aside, and asked my opinion as to how much money it +would cost to pay Jasmin's expenses, if he undertook a journey to +England: "However," she added, "I dare say he need be at no charge, for, +of _course_, your queen has read _that article_ in his favour, and knows +his merit; she will probably send for him, pay all the expenses of his +journey, and give him great fetes in London." I recommended the +barber-poet to wait _till he was sent for_; and left the happy pair, +promising to let them know the effect that the translation of Jasmin's +poetry produced on the royal mind:--their earnest simplicity was really +entertaining. + + END OF VOL. I. + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +VOL. II. + + + + +CONTENTS TO THE SECOND VOLUME. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Renown of Pau--Lectoure--The Labourer-Duke--Auch--Tarbes--The Princess +and the Count--Costume--Arrival at Pau--The Promenades--The +Town--Improvements--First Impressions--Walks--Buildings--Hotels--The +Magnificent Baker--The Swain--Tou-Cai! + +CHAPTER II. + +The Climate of Pau--Storms--Fine Weather--Palassou--Reasons for going to +Pau--The Winter + +CHAPTER III. + +The Castle of Henri Quatre--- The Furniture--The Shell--The Statue--The +Birth--Castel Beziat--The Fairy Gift--A Change--Henri +Quatre + +CHAPTER IV. + +Troubadour + +CHAPTER V. + +Road from Pan to Tarbes--Table Land--The Pics--The Haras of +Tarbes--Autumn in the Pyrenees--Mont l'Heris--Gabrielle +d'Estrees--Chasseaux Palombes--Penne de l'Heris--Pic du Midi--Charlet +the Guide--Valley of Campan--La Gatta--Grip--The Tourmalet--Campana del +Vasse--Bareges--Luz--Cagot Door--Gavarine--The Fall of the +Rock--Chaos--Circus--Magnificence of Nature--Pont de +Neige--Roland--Durendal--Izards--Les +Cranes--Pierrefitte--Cauteretz--Cerizet--Pont d'Espagne--Lac de +Gaube--Argelez + +CHAPTER VI. + +Vallee d'Ossau--Le Hourat--The Rio Verde--Eaux Chaudes--Eaux Bonnes--- +Bielle--Izeste--Saccaze, the Naturalist + +CHAPTER VII. + +Gabas--Popular Songs--Pont Crabe--The Recluse of the Vallee +d'Ossau--Marguerite--The Springs + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Peasants of Ossau--Capitivity of Francis the First--Death of +Joyeuse--Death of the Duke de Maine--Dances + +CHAPTER IX. + +Coarraze--Orton--The Pont Long--Les Belles Cantinieres--Morlaas--The +Cure--Resintance to Improvement--Uzain--Lescar--Reformation in +Navarre--Tombs--Francois Phoebus--The Mother + +CHAPTER X. + +The Romances of the Castle of Orthez--Tour de Moncade--The Infants--The +Son of Gaston Phoebus--Legends--The Oath--The bad King of Navarre--The +Quarrel--The Murder--Death of Gaston Phoebus--Paradise the Reward of +Hunters--The Captive--The Step-Mother--The Young Countess--The Great +Bear--The Return--The Real Cause--The Meeting in the Forest--The Mass + +CHAPTER XI. + +The Countess of Comminges--The Charge--The persecuted Heiress--The +Bridge--The Cordelier--Costume--Aspremont--Peyrehourade + +CHAPTER XII. + +Bayonne-Public Walks--Biaritz--Atalaya--Giant Fernagus--Anne of +Neubourg--The Dancing Mayor + +CHAPTER XIII. + +Basque Language--Dialects--Words--Poetry--Songs--The +Deserter--Character--Drama--Towns + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Cagots--Cacous of Brittany + +CHAPTER XV. + +The Cagot--Vallee d'Aspe--Superstitions--Forests--Despourrins--The two +Gaves--Bedous--High-road to Saragossa--Cascade of Lescun--Urdos--A +Picture for Murillo--La Vache + +CHAPTER XVI. + +Aramitz--The Play--Mauleon--The Sisters--Words--St. Jean + +CHAPTER XVII. + +Arneguy--The Cacolet--Rolando's Tree--Snow-white Goats +--Costume--Sauveterre--The Pastor--Navarreux--Spanish Air + + + + +BEARN AND THE PYRENEES. VOL. II. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + RENOWN OF PAU--LECTOURE--THE LABOURER-DUKE--AUCH--TARBES--THE + PRINCESS AND THE COUNT--COSTUME--ARRIVAL AT PAU--THE + PROMENADES--THE TOWN--IMPROVEMENTS-FIRST + IMPRESSIONS--WALKS--BUILDINGS--HOTELS--THE MAGNIFICENT BAKER--THE + SWAIN--TOU-CAI! + + +WE left Agen on our way to Pau, where we proposed taking up our winter +quarters, having so frequently heard that it was one of the best +retreats for cold weather in the South of France: its various +perfections casting into the shade those, long-established, but now +waning, of Montpelier, Nice, &c. At Lectoure we changed horses, and +remained long enough to admire the fine view from its exalted position, +and a few of the humours of its population of young ragged urchins, +whose gambols with a huge Pyrenean dog diverted us for some time. +Lectoure is situated on the summit of an immense rock, surrounded by +hills and deep valleys. It was formerly very strongly fortified, as the +remains of its Roman and Middle-Age walls attest. + +The tower of the church, partly Roman, partly English, is a very +striking object, from its extreme height and apparent fragility, which +is, however, merely imaginary; for it has resisted the efforts of time +and war for centuries: it once had a steeple of stupendous height; but +as it was continually attracting the stray lightnings, and was, besides, +much dilapidated, it was demolished. The episcopal palace, now the +Mairie, is near it, bought for the town by Marshal Lannes, Duke de +Montebello. The statue of this hero of Napoleon is in the grand square, +and his portrait, as well as those of other great men born in Lectoure, +adorn the walls of the interior. There are many fine promenades, from +whence delicious views can be enjoyed; from that of Fleurance it is +said that, on a clear day, the towers of the cathedral of Auch are seen; +and the view is bounded by the snowy giants of the Pyrenees. Although +the day was fine, we could not, however, distinguish either. This public +walk was made at the time when Lannes was a simple labourer in his +native place; and he, with others, received six sous a-day for his work. +The Duke de Montebello is said afterwards to have sat beneath the trees +which overshadow it, and told his companions in arms how his youth was +passed, and what his pay was at that time. This is a trait which does +the brave soldier's memory infinite honour. + +The country is agreeable and diversified on the way to Auch, and the two +towers of the cathedral are seen at a great distance, crowning the +height on which the town stands. They have so much the aspect of a +feudal castle, that it is difficult to believe that one is looking on a +church. The nearer you approach, the more determined seems the form: and +walls, and bastions, and turrets, and ruins, seem rising out of the +hill: all, however, as you come quite close, subside into a huge mass, +which gives a promise of magnificence and grandeur by no means realized; +for there is more of Louis XIV. and XV., than Charles VIII., who began +the building, about the architecture; and the towers, which appeared so +grand at a distance, have a singularly poor and mean appearance +attached to the facade, and compared to the enormous bulk of the fabric. + +The boast and glory of the cathedral of Auch are the series of painted +windows in the choir, of remarkable beauty, and in wonderful +preservation: the colours vivid, and the size of the figures colossal; +but though extremely gorgeous, they cannot compare, in purity of effect, +to earlier specimens, where less is attempted and more accomplished. I +never saw such large paintings of the kind: the nearest approach to it +being those of the same period at Epernay, amongst the vines of +Champagne. There is a great deal of rich sculpture, both in the stalls +and in the surrounding tombs, but the taste did not accord with mine, +and, on the whole, I felt but little interest in the cathedral: we were +spared the usual fearful exhibition in the winding staircase of one of +the towers, where a little child, to earn a few sous, is in the habit of +suspending itself by a rope, over the well, formed by the twisting +steps, and sliding down to the bottom with terrific celerity. + +The town of Auch did not please me enough to induce us to stay longer +than to wait for the diligence, which was passing through to Tarbes; +and, having secured the _coupe_ we continued our journey. Before we had +travelled half a league, on descending a hill, suddenly, a line of +singularly-shaped objects, quite apart from all others in the +landscape, told us at once that the purple Pyrenees were in sight; and +we indeed beheld their sharp pinnacles cleaving the blue sky before us. +For some distance we still saw them; but, by degrees, they vanished into +shade as evening came on, and we lost them, and all other sights, in the +darkness of night; in the midst of which we arrived at Tarbes. + +"Tharbes is a large and fine town, situated in a plain country, with +rich vines: there is a town, city, and castle, and all closed in with +gates, walls, and towers, and separated the one from the other; for +there comes from the heights of the mountains of Bearn and Casteloigne +the beautiful _River of Lisse_, which runs all throughout Tharbes, and +divides it, the which river is as clear as a fountain. Two leagues off +is the city of Morlens, belonging to Count de Foix, and at the entrance +of the country of Bearn; and beneath the mountain, at six leagues from +Tharbes, is the town of Pau, also belonging to the said Count." + +This is Froissart's description of Tarbes, in his time; and, as far as +regards its beautiful sparkling river, which is _not the Lisse_, but the +Adour, might apply to it now; for the streams that appear in all +directions, in and round the town, are as clear as crystal, and run +glittering and murmuring through streets, roads, and promenades, as if +the houses and squares had no business there to intercept its +mountain-torrent. + +We were much struck, when we first issued from our hotel in the +Place-Maubourguet, to behold, opposite, framed, as it were, in a square +opening between the streets, a gigantic mass of blue mountains shining +in the sun. They appeared singularly near; and one cannot fail to regard +them with a certain awe, as if a new nature had dawned, different from +any one had known before. This is the most interesting spot in Tarbes; +and its beautiful promenade by the river is also attractive. There are +no monuments,--no buildings worth notice. The once fine castle may be +traced in a few solid walls, and its moated position; but this tower was +one of the first indications we had that all specimens of architectural +art had ceased, and in future, with a few exceptions, it must be nature +alone which was to interest us. The red _capelines_ of the market-women, +and their dark mantles (_capuchins_), lined with the same colour, give +their figures a strange, nun-like appearance, which always strikes a +stranger, and at first pleases. As these shrouded forms flit about +amongst the trees, they look picturesque and mysterious; but the eye +soon wearies of this costume, which is totally devoid of grace. The +cloak, being so cut as to prevent its falling in folds, hangs stiffly +round the wearer's limbs; concealing the shape, and producing a mean +effect. It is a sort of penitential habit; and the peaked hood looks +like the dress of the San Benitos, or a lively image of the appropriate +costume of a witch who might be an inquisitor's victim. We could not +help contrasting it with the beautiful and graceful cloak worn by the +charming Granvillaises,--those Spanish-looking beauties whose appearance +so delighted us in that distant part of Normandy. The Granville girl has +also a black camlet mantle, or _capote_; but the stiff hood is not +peaked: it is lined with white, and is worn in the most elegant and +coquettish manner; showing the figure to great advantage, and setting +off the invariably pretty face, and its snow-white, plaited, turban-like +cap, never to be seen in the South. There are so few pretty countenances +in the Pyrenees, that perhaps even the Granville drapery would not make +much difference; but, certainly, nothing can be uglier than to see the +manner in which this scanty shroud is dragged over the form; giving more +the idea of a beggar anxious to shield herself from the inclemency of +the season, than a lively, smart, peasant girl pursuing her avocations. +The scarlet gleams of its lining alone in some degree redeem its +ugliness; as, at a distance, the vivid colour looks well amongst more +sombre tints. + +It is difficult, at the present day, to picture Tarbes as it was at the +period when the Black Prince, and his Fair Maid of Kent, came to this +city of Bigorre, in all the splendour of a conqueror, to see the Count +of Armagnac, who was in debt to the magnificent Gaston Phoebus, for his +ransom, two hundred and fifty thousand francs. + +The manner in which the count managed to get off part of his debt is not +a little amusing. He had represented his case to Edward, who saw nothing +in it but a very ordinary event: "You were taken prisoner," said he, "by +the Count of Foix; and he releases you for a certain sum. It would be +very unreasonable to expect him to waive his claim. I should not do so; +nor would my father, the king, in similar circumstances: therefore, I +must beg to decline interfering." The Count of Armagnac was much +mortified at this straight-forward answer, and began to devise what +could be done. He bethought him of the power of beauty; and applied to +the right person. + +Gaston Phoebus arrived at Tarbes, from Pau, with a retinue of six +hundred horse, with sixty knights of high birth, and a great train of +squires and gentlemen. He was received with much joy and state by the +prince and princess, and entertained with infinite honour. + +The fair princess chose her moment, and took occasion to beg a boon of +the Count of Foix, whose gallantry was proverbial; but, just as he was +on the point of granting it without condition, a momentary light made +him cautious "Ah! madam," said he, "I am a little man, and a poor +bachelor, who have not the power to make great gifts; but that which you +ask, if it be not of more value than fifty thousand francs, shall be +yours." + +The princess talked and cajoled, and was as charming and insinuating as +possible, in hopes to gain her boon entire; but Gaston began to feel +certain that the ransom of the Count d'Armagnac was the object of her +demand; he, therefore, kept firm, in spite of her fascinations, and she +was obliged to name her request that he would forgive the count his +ransom. + +"I told you," replied he, "that I would grant a boon to the value of +fifty thousand francs; therefore, I remit him that sum of what he owes +me." + +And thus did the fair Princess of Aquitaine obtain a remission of part +of the ransom of the Count d'Armagnac. + +We took a carriage from Tarbes to Pau,--our intended resting-place for +the winter. The drive, for several leagues, was extremely charming; the +banks were covered with rich purple heath; the oak and chestnut growing +abundantly and luxuriantly. But though, in our certainty of seeing some +_new_ growth as we approached nearer to the sunny South, we transformed +the round, thick oaks into _cork trees_, we were obliged to submit to +disappointment when we were assured that there was not a cork-tree till +the Spanish side of the Pyrenees was reached. Long before we arrived at +Pau, the hitherto pleasant, bright day had changed, and a sharp, +drizzling, chilly rain accompanied us on the remainder of our +journey--mist shutting out the prospect, and all becoming as dreary as a +wet day makes things everywhere. We were a little surprised to find that +there was no amelioration in this particular, since we looked forth upon +the streaming streets of Lisieux! + +We drove into Pau through an ugly suburb, which gave a sufficiently mean +idea of its appearance; but we imagined that the town would repay us for +its approach. Still the grey, unpainted shutters of the slovenly-looking +houses were not replaced by others of brighter and cleaner aspect: still +ruined, barrack-like buildings, dilapidated or ill-constructed, met our +view; and, when we drove through the whole of the town to the Grande +Place de Henri Quatre, and paused at the Hotel des Postes, instead of a +handsome, flourishing inn, we were astonished to see a wretched, +ancient, red, low-roofed tenement, adjoining a somewhat +ambitious-looking house without taste or grace. Here we could not find +accommodation; and, considering the appearance of what we had heard was +the best inn, we did not much regret the circumstance. + +We were equally unsuccessful at several others; having looked at dirty, +dingy, black apartments on a fifth floor as the only ones left: so full +was the town of visitors returning, in all directions, from the +different baths in the Pyrenees, where, as _it had rained all the +summer_, invalids and tourists had been lingering for fine days, until +patience was exhausted, and "all betook them home." + +At length we got housed in very tolerable but desolate cold rooms, with +furniture as scanty, and accommodations as meagre, as we had ever met +with in towns where no English face had been seen, except _en passant_. +This surprised us, as we had heard _comfort_ abounded in Pau, as well as +every luxury and beauty which wearied travellers would be glad to call +their own; add to which, a soft, mild climate, _which could be depended +on_, and the only drawback _too little wind_ and too continuous warmth. + +This was the third of October, and it was as cold as Christmas; the rain +continued without ceasing; and, in spite of our impatience, we were +obliged to remain in our inn. The next day, however, brighter skies +revived us; and when we stepped forth on the rugged pavement, we felt in +better spirits; no change, however, did the fine sun and sky operate on +the town, which, it is sufficient to say, is one of the ugliest, +worst-paved, "by infinite degrees," and most uninteresting that exist +in France. The castle, of course, was the first attraction; and--though +without the slightest claim to notice on the score of architecture; +though dirty, and slovenly, and rugged, and dilapidated, more than could +possibly be expected in a region which is immortalized by the name of +Henri Quatre, and being, as it is, the goal sought by all travellers, +consequently forming the riches of Bearn, the cause of such a host of +travellers and tourists visiting Pau; the subject of all boast, the +theme of all pride; though it is neglected and contemned by the ingrates +of its neighbourhood,--the castle is, from its recollections, almost +worth the long journey which is to find it at its close. + +We returned to the Place Royale, after lingering long, on this our +_first_ visit, in the chambers now in the course of restoration by the +most thoughtful and beneficent of sovereigns; and there we lost no time +in securing an abode in one of the beautifully-situated pavilions of the +Bains de la Place Royale,--a new and well-arranged building, let in +_suites_ of apartments, well furnished, and perfectly clean and +inviting, having been recently renovated. From the windows of the rooms +allotted to us, we beheld the whole of the long chain of the magnificent +Pyrenees, from the Pic de Bigorre to the giant du Midi, and the +countless peaks beyond. Our first impression was almost wild delight at +the prospect of living long in a spot with these splendid objects +always before our eyes, in uninterrupted grandeur; with a glowing sun +always shining, sheltered from the north wind by the high promenade at +the back of the house; with a beautiful little rapid stream running +along at the base of our tower, the murmuring, sparkling, angry Gave[25] +meandering through the meadows beyond; the range of vine-covered and +wooded hills opposite, dotted with villas, which glittered white amidst +their luxuriant groves; and, at the back of all, the everlasting awful +mountains, purple and transparent and glowing with light. + +[Footnote 25: _Gave_ is the generic name of all the mountain streams in +this region, but that of Pau is called _"the Gave,"_ par excellence.] + +We were not deceived in the enjoyment we anticipated in this particular, +for, to make amends for the unwilling _discoveries_ we made as to the +reputation of Pau, our mountains seemed to devote themselves to our +pleasure, assuming every form of beauty and sublimity to satisfy and +enchant us. + +When we took our first walk in the promenade, improperly called _the +Park_, we were fascinated with the extreme beauty of this charmed grove, +which is planted in terraces, on a _coteau_ bordering the Gave, and is +_one of the most_ charming possessed by any town in France: there is the +same glorious view of the range of giant mountains even more developed +than from the Place Royale; the paths are kept clean and clear and neat; +the trees are of the finest growth, and everything combines to make it a +most attractive spot, though the usual somewhat Gascon mode of +describing it, adopted at Pau, as _"the most beautiful in the world,"_ +appears to me rather hyperbolical when I recollect those of Laon, +Auxerre, Dijon, Dinan, Avranches, and others; which have not, however, +the Pyrenees as a back-ground, it must be confessed. + +The only part of the town of Pau which will bear mention, is that +portion which borders the Gave, above a fine avenue of trees, which +extends to a considerable distance along the banks of the small clear +stream of the Ousse: that is to say, _the houses_ which face the +mountains; but the street in which their entrances are found is narrow, +dirty, slovenly, and worse than _ill_-paved. These mansions--for some +of them are large and isolated--have a magnificent position, and, seen +from the Bois Louis, as the grove below is called, have a very imposing +aspect. The principal street, Rue de la Prefecture, is extremely mean, +and the shops of the least inviting appearance. It is very badly paved +throughout its great extent, for it reaches from one end of the town to +the other; but here and there a few flagstones serve to make their +absence elsewhere regretted. There is one good square, which might be +fine if, as seldom happens in France, the intention had been carried +out, or success had attended it. There are two rows of good houses, with +paved colonnades, but very few of the shops, which should have made it a +_Palais Royal_, are inhabited; consequently, the appearance of poverty +and desolation is peculiarly striking. One or two houses are taken, and +some windows filled with goods, very different from those, doubtless, +originally expected to appear; grocers, sadlers, and wine-merchants +occupy the places which should have been filled by _marchandes de +modes_, jewellers, toysellers, and ornamental merchants. The Place Henri +Quatre is, therefore, a half-executed project, and impresses the +stranger with no admiration. Another large, desolate space, called the +Place Grammont, contains the Champ de Mars, and is dedicated to the +military, whose barracks form one side of the square. A walk, called the +Haute Plante, is near this, and, descending from it, the baths of Henri +Quatre and the Basse Plante are reached, and the approach to the Park. + +The great horse fair of Pau is kept in the Haute Plante; but it is by no +means an inviting spot: the park is, in fact, the only place where one +can walk pleasantly; for the pretty Bois Louis is principally devoted to +the washerwomen of the town, and soldiers; and the drains of the streets +running down in this direction, generally cause so unpleasant an odour, +that a stroll there can rarely be accomplished with pleasure. To reach +the park and to return from it, is a work of great pain; the pointed and +uneven stones making the walk intolerable, and there is no way by which +to arrive there, but through the damp, dirty streets. + +If, as was once projected, a terrace walk was made to extend from the +Place Royale--which is a small square planted with trees in rows, to the +castle court, it would be an incalculable advantage; and such a means of +arriving at the only objects of interest, would be the saving not only +of many a sprained ankle, but many a severe cold, as, at all times, the +streets are cold and damp; and the less a visitor sees of the town of +Pau, and the more of the mountains, and _coteaux_, and streams, the less +likely is he to dissatisfied with a residence in this most favoured and +misrepresented of all ugly towns. + +I am told that Pau is greatly _improved_ from what it was seven or +eight years ago; if such is the case, the town must then have been in a +deplorable condition indeed: that those who are residents from so early +a period should be content with the changes which have relieved them +from inconvenience, I can easily understand; but that persons who, in +Paris or in Normandy, have been accustomed to superior accommodation can +be satisfied with Pau, surprises me. Taken in general, those who reside +here all the year round, are Irish, Scotch, or from distant country +towns in England, many being quite unused to London or Paris; therefore, +they can make no comparisons, and from long habit get accustomed to +things which must annoy others; but when persons of wealth and +condition, forsaking the great capitals and beautiful watering-places at +home, and their own splendid and comfortable establishments, come to +Pau, to stay for some months, they must surely find that the +representations they have heard of it are strangely at variance with +truth. Invalids, of course, are glad to submit to whatever may tend to +re-establish their health; and, as several persons speak of having +derived benefit during their stay, doubtless there is a class of +invalids to whom the climate does good: the only question is, would they +not have been as well off nearer home, without the enormous expense of +so long a journey, and enduring so complete an expatriation? + +If one must necessarily go to Pau to meet with charming people and +hospitality and attention, I should recommend all the world to hasten +thither; but, since this can be found at home or elsewhere, from the +same persons, I would not, for that reason alone, counsel a residence +there. The accident of finding agreeable society amongst one's own +countrymen has nothing to do with the Pyrenees; and we have so usurped +the place of the original inhabitants, that only a very few French are +left; in the same manner as at Boulogne or Tours. Almost all advantages, +therefore, to be derived from foreign society are denied, and the +frequent parties at Pau are nearly exclusively English. + +More than one family whom I saw arrive, amused me by their raptures, +similar to our own on the first view, on a fine day, of the mountains +from the Place Royale or the park; and their subsequent discontent, when +the absence of the fitful sun had entirely changed the scene, leaving +only the damp dirty town, and a grey space, where the concealed giants +shrouded themselves, sometimes for weeks together. People generally are +so impressed at first, by the fascination of the _coup d'oeil_, that +they hasten to take a house which they cannot engage for less than six +months, or, if for three, the price is advanced; fearing to miss the +opportunity of settling themselves, they seldom hesitate about the +terms, which are generally very high, and, when once placed, they begin +to look about them, and regret that they were so precipitate; for they +find themselves condemned to a long, dismal winter, in a very +uninteresting, expensive town, without any resource beyond their +windows, if they face the mountains; or their fire-side, if their +chimney do not smoke--which is a rare happiness. There is scarcely a +town in Italy, where numerous galleries are not ready to afford a +constant intellectual treat, or where fine buildings cannot present +objects of admiration; but in Pau all is barren: there is nothing but +the mountains to look at--for the view of the hemmed-in-valley is +extremely confined--and the park to walk in; which, after all, is a mere +promenade, of no great length and no variety, in spite of its +convenience and beauty. The ramparts of most towns in France, which are +situated in a fine country, present great changes, and consequent +excitement in the view; but at Pau it is always from the same spots that +you must seek one prospect. + +The walks out of the town are unpleasant; for almost every way you must +traverse a long, dusty, or dirty suburb, and generally follow a high +road to a great distance, before you arrive at the place which is to +repay your toil: this is annoying, as--though climbing up _coteaux_ and +threading the mazes of vineyards is pleasant--two or three miles of +dusty road, encumbered with bullock-carts and droves of pigs on the way +and _on the return_, is by no means refreshing. + +If pedestrians are not to be thought of, this is of no consequence, and, +indeed, it is a circumstance which frequently occurs in French towns; +those who take rides on horseback and venture a long way off, are more +fortunate; for they come upon beautiful spots, and can reach sublime +views amongst the mountains: a mere two hours' _drive_ does not change +the scene from that which is beheld from Pau, and the great similarity +of all the views near greatly reduces their interest. + +On the Bordeaux road, as Pau is approached, the sudden burst of the +mountains on the sight is very fine; but there are no meadows, no lanes, +nothing but a broad, _grande route_, from which the pedestrian can +behold this. To reach the pretty _coteaux_ of Jurancon and Gelos, one +must walk for a mile and a half along a high road, and through a +slovenly suburb; to reach the height of Bizanos, where a fine view of +the mountains can be obtained, it is necessary to go through the whole +straggling village of Bizanos, and run the gauntlet of a whole +population of washerwomen, while every tree and hedge is hung with +_drapery_ bleaching in the air. Bizanos is called a _pretty village_; +but those who so designate it can only be thinking of utility, like our +hostess at La Rochelle, when she took us to a grand sight, which turned +out to be no other than a washing-establishment. The French have, it is +acknowledged, no taste for the picturesque, and it appeared to me as if +the complaisance of the English abroad led them to agree that anything +is pretty which pleases their foreign friends. + +No doubt, there is infinitely better accommodation at Pau, than at any +other town in the neighbourhood of the baths of the Pyrenees, and those +who really require to attend them for several seasons--for it seems that +it is generally necessary to do so--are quite right to make Pau their +headquarters; but that those who seek amusement should remain at Pau in +preference to Italy, or even other towns in France, is inexplicable. I +do not know whether many return after they have once departed; but there +are seldom fewer than six hundred English and Americans here in the +winter. One English family arrived during our stay, took a large house, +and made every arrangement for the winter; but, frightened by the +continued bad weather, they left it in haste for Paris. I confess I was +surprised others did not do the same. + +All modern French writers describe Pau as "a _charming town_" alluding, +of course, to the _society_, which is to them the great desideratum +everywhere; besides, they are accustomed to ill-paved streets, and are +not fastidious about cleanliness. The guide-books of these parts cite +the descriptions of early writers in order to compare its present with +its former state; two are given, which are certainly as much at variance +as those obtained by strangers at the present day. In a work printed in +1776, the following passage occurs: + +"The town of Pau is of an ordinary size; the greatest part of its houses +are well-built, and covered with slate. It is the seat of a parliament, +a university, an academy of _belles lettres_, and a mint. The greatest +part of the _noblesse_ of Bearn make it their usual abode; the Jesuits +have a large college founded by Louis XIII. There is a seminary under +the direction of the brothers of St. Lazare, a convent of Cordeliers, +another of Capuchins, and four nunneries. At the western extremity of +the town, is an ancient castle, where the princes of Bearn resided, and +where King Henry IV. was born." + +The intendant Lebret said of Pau, in 1700:-- + +"The town of Pau consists of two streets, tolerably long, but very +ill-constructed; it possesses nothing considerable. The _palais_ is one +of the worst kept possible--the most incommodious, and the most dirty; +the _maison de ville_ is still worse. The parish church cannot contain a +quarter of the inhabitants, and is, besides, as ill-supported and as +bare of ornament as one would see in the smallest village." + +Something between these two accounts might serve to give an idea of what +the town is now: the public buildings are totally unworthy of mention, +indeed, the only one at all remarkable is the new market-place, which is +very large, and solidly built. The churches are more in number, but +quite as insignificant as when Lebret wrote; the protestant _"temple"_ +has not more claim on observation as a piece of architecture, and, being +built over the bed of a water-course, is supposed to be in some danger, +and is extremely chill in winter. Through the midst of the town runs a +deep ravine,--the bed of a stream called the Hedas--which divides it +into two, and gives it a very singular effect; a bridge over this +connects the two parts; the castle rises from one side, a venerable +object; which, whenever seen, excites interest from its history rather +than appearance; from this point it looks like an old prison, and the +host of grim, dirty houses which clothe the steeps are anything but +worthy of admiration. + +The quarter of the Place Royale is called by the French, _the Chaussee +d'Antin_ of Pau--a somewhat ambitious distinction, which must a little +surprise a Parisian when he enters it, and observes a shabby row of +small low houses and cafes for the soldiery, on one side of the square +space planted with trees, where the _elite_ of Pau are supposed to walk. +On the opposite side, a large hotel spreads out its courts, and a house +with unpainted shutters and weather-stained walls; at the extremity, is +what seems a ruined church, but which is, in fact, a building left +half-finished to fall to decay, where the wood for the military is kept; +nothing can be so desolate as the aspect on this side, and the stranger +is amazed at the slovenly and dilapidated scene; but he must suspend his +judgment, and walk along one of the short avenues till he reaches a +parapet wall, where he forgets Pau and its faults in a single glance; +for there the grand prospect of the mountains bursts upon him, and its +magnificence can scarcely be exceeded. + +As soon as the fine weather begins, this place, on a Sunday, is crowded +with promenaders, principally tradespeople of the town. A military band +is stationed here, and thunders forth peals of music much to the delight +of the listeners. A very gay scene is presented on this occasion; but +there is little characteristic, as no costumes are to be seen, and the +_elegantes_ of Pau are exactly like those of any other town. + +Along the rugged, damp street, which runs from the back of the Place +Royale, are most of the best houses in Pau: those on the side next the +valley have the same glorious view as the promenade allows, and are +generally taken by the English: one or two of these are fitted up in +very good style, and made extremely comfortable; indeed, from this point +mansion after mansion has been built, each of which has peculiar +attractions; and, though not handsome or elegant, are good, square, +large dwelling-houses, sufficiently convenient. These are designated by +_French describers as magnifiques hotels_, &c.; and fortunate are the +English families who possess them as dwellings: they have all good +gardens, and may boast of one of the finest views of the mountains that +it is possible to obtain. + +The college, founded by Henry IV., is a large and airy building, without +grace or beauty, and enclosed in high walls: it has an imposing effect, +from the height of the village of Bizanos, on the opposite side of the +Gave. + +The Hotel de la Prefecture, and that where the valuable archives of the +town are kept, possess neither beauty nor dignity: the space opposite is +now occupied by the new market-house--which appears never to be used, +for all the goods are spread out on the stones before it, as if it was +only there for ornament: in this space, the guillotine was erected in +the time of terror, and the murders of the great, and good, and +respectable inhabitants took place. Unfortunately, this is a record, too +recent, which every town in France can furnish. + +It appears to me that the people of Pau are quiet, honest, simple, and +obliging; at least, we never saw an instance to the contrary, except on +our first arrival, when our driver took off the horses from the carriage +in the inn-yard, and refused to go a step further to seek for +accommodation for us; but I suspect he was not a native of the town. The +landlady of the inn--who came from Bordeaux--with a mysterious wink, +assured us we should find all the common people the same--"_Ces Bearnais +sont tous brutals!_" was her remark; but we did not find her in the +right. + +The Gascon character, though here a little softened, prevails a good +deal, as the continued boasting about their town proves, and a certain +pomposity in their demeanour, which, however, is harmless and amusing. +We were in the habit of employing a baker, who made what was called +English bread, and the magnificent manner in which he paid his visits to +our domicile was very comic. Our maid, Jeannotte, being out of the way, +we were one day disturbed by a vociferous knocking at our +parlour-door--for in general all the passage-doors are left open--and +hurrying to admit the clamorous visitant, we beheld the baker's +assistant, M. Auguste, with a tray of loaves on his head and one in his +hand, which he thrust forth, accompanying the action with a flourish and +a low bow, exclaiming, "De la part de Cesar!" We were not then aware +that such was the name of our baker, and were much awed by the +announcement. + +Another of our domestic visitors was a source of considerable +entertainment to us, and became still more so through the _espieglerie_ +of our attendant, Jeannotte, who took occasion to mystify him at our +expense. This object of mirth was a little stout mountaineer, who came +every week from his home in the mountains--between the valleys of Ossau +and Aspe--with a load of butter and cheese, with which his strong, +sure-footed horse was furnished. In the severest weather this little man +would set out; and on one occasion his horse had to be dug out of the +snow in one of the passes; but the desire of gain, which invariably +actuates these people, and a carelessness of hardship, made him treat +all his dangers lightly. He was in the habit of coming to us every week, +and generally made his way to our part of the house, as he appeared +amused to _look at us_ as much as we were to converse with him, and ask +him questions about bears, wolves, and avalanches. + +His stock of French was small, and he had a peremptory way of demanding +what he required, as he divided his neat pieces of butter for our +service. He could not be more than five feet high, but was a sturdy, +strong-built man, though of very small proportions. One day when +delivering his charge to Jeannotte, she asked him in _patois_,--her own +tongue--if he was married; he started at the question, and begged to +know her reason for inquiring; she informed him it was for the benefit +of Mademoiselle, who wished to know. The little hero paused, and +presently, in rather an anxious tone, demanded of Jeannotte what +mademoiselle's reason could possibly be for requiring the knowledge. +"There is no telling," said she, archly, "Mademoiselle thinks you very +amiable." + +"Is it possible!!" said he, musing; "you don't surely imagine--_do_ you +think she would have me?" + +The laughter of Jeannotte quite abashed the gallant mountaineer, and he +replaced his load of butter on his brown _berret_ and disappeared, nor +would he for some time afterwards pay us a visit. At length he did so, +and I found his modest confusion apparent in his forgetting to take the +full change of his money, actually on one occasion abandoning _half a +sous_ of his just due, and retiring with a "C'est egal." When we told +him we were going away he was much struck, and stayed longer than usual +gazing at us, till we thought he intended to open his mind, and declare +his intentions to share his mountain-home with one of our party. I +therefore gave him a note of recommendation for his butter to a friend, +and he retired apparently more satisfied, though with a heavy sigh and a +murmured hope--expressed half in _patois_--that we would come back to +the Pyrenees in the summer. + +There is still a good deal of simplicity left amongst this people, and +certainly but little wit. Strong affection seems to be felt by them +towards their relations, and quarrels seem rare; the Bearnais are said +to be drunkards; but I never remember to have seen any instances of this +in the streets. They are slovenly, and the lower classes extremely +dirty; the market-women, in their white flannel peaked hoods of a +hideous form, or their handkerchiefs loosely tied, without grace and +merely for warmth, have in the cold season a very unpicturesque +appearance, and the shrill shrieking voices of those who scream hot +chesnuts to sell about the streets, uttering their piercing cry of "_tou +cai, tou cai_!"[26] is anything but pleasing to the ear. + +The servants, however, seem good, industrious, honest, and very civil; +and, as far as our own experience went, we saw only good conduct; while +from our hostess at the Bain Royal we met with liberality and extreme +courtesy; she, it is true, is from the refined city of Toulouse, but has +long resided at Pau, and I should certainly counsel any stranger, whom, +they would suit, to choose her apartments as a residence; for her +pavilions are situated in the most agreeable position, out of the noise +and dampness of the town, and with the whole range of Pyrenees +constantly in uninterrupted view. + +[Footnote 26: All hot! all hot!] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + THE CLIMATE OF PAU--STORMS--FINE WEATHER--PALASSOU--REASONS FOR + GOING TO PAU--THE WINTER. + + +ONE of the chief inducements to foreigners, particularly the English, to +visit Pau for the winter, is the reputation of its climate for mildness +and softness. When we arrived, in October, in a storm of rain, it was, +we understood, the continuation of a series of wet weather, which, +throughout the year, had made the whole country desolate, and the +company at all the baths had, in consequence, left a month sooner than +usual; for a fortnight after our establishment at Pau, nothing could be +more agreeable than the season, precisely answering to the beautiful +weather which my letters announced from different parts of England. +During this time the mountains were rarely visible, and when seen +appeared indistinctly. This charming fortnight, during which Pau seemed +to deserve all the commendations so profusely bestowed on it, was a +promise of the calm and peaceful winter which I was told was always to +be found in these favoured regions; I bore the sarcasms against the +fogs and, above all, the uncertainty of the climate of gloomy England, +as well as I could; and my assertion that, till the first week in +November, I had last year bathed in the sea at Brighton, was received +with indulgent smiles of pity at my nationality, both by French and +English; but of course not believed, for the air of France, I have +always observed, has such a property of effacing the remembrance of +sunny days passed on the other side of the channel, that, by degrees, +our countrymen arrive at the belief that nothing but fog and rain are +ever to be seen in our ill-fated island, and they imagine that, till +they came abroad, their knowledge of blue sky or bright sun was obtained +only in pictures, but had no existence on the banks of the Thames or +elsewhere, in the desolate regions they had quitted. + +The morning of the 18th of October rose brilliantly, and was succeeded +by a burning day; in the afternoon ominous clouds suddenly appeared, and +brought a storm of rain and hail, whose effects were felt in the extreme +cold of the atmosphere for some days, when another change came over the +face of things, which brought forth the character of this calm, quiet +place, where the excessive _stillness_ of the air is cited as almost +wearying, in quite a different light. It has been said, and is +frequently cited, that a certain sea-captain left Pau in disgust, after +passing some months there, because he could never obtain a _capful of +wind_. If that anonymous gentleman had had the good fortune to be at Pau +on the night of the 23rd of October, I think he would have fixed his +domicile for the rest of his life there; for such a furious hurricane he +could seldom have had the good fortune to enjoy. For four hours in the +dead of night, without intermission, the howling of the wind through the +gorges of the mountains, the rush and swell amongst the hills, vales, +and across the plains, was perfectly appalling. Every moment seemed to +threaten annihilation to all within its reach; chimneys were dashed down +in every direction, trees torn up by the roots, and the triumph of the +tempest fiend complete. Furious rain and hail succeeded on the following +day, with occasional gleams of sun; and then came a calm, beautiful, +summer day again, and the mountains shone out as brightly as possible. +This gave place to thick fog and a severe frost on the very next day, +lasting for several days; rain then diversified the scene, and on the +29th a wind rose in the night almost as furious as the last, which +continued the whole of the day following: a cold gloomy morrow, and the +next bright, hot, and pleasant, ended October. + +The next day was a triumph for Pau:--"When," asked every one we +met--"when, in_ England_, would you see such a 1st of November?" All my +vivid recollections of charming strolls on the beach and downs in +Sussex, and in Windsor Park, were looked upon as figments. I heard no +boasting on the 2nd, nor for three more days, for it was foggy, and +rained hard, and no one could stir out. On the 6th, a heavy fall of snow +had clothed the whole country in white; and now, for three days, a +sharp, frosty wind prevented any more remarks about the softness of the +climate. The frost and snow had disappeared, as by enchantment, on the +11th, the night of which was so sultry that to keep windows shut was +impossible. The Fair of Pau was ushered in by rain, on the 12th; the +13th was as hot as the hottest day in July, accompanied by a good deal +of fog, for several days: then came violent wind, hail-storms, wind +again--louder and more furious--fog, cold, occasionally bright; and +November disappeared on a misty morning, which ended in a burning day, +without a breath of air, all glare and faintness. + +We were now told that, though St. Martin had failed to keep his summer +at the right time, he was never known to desert his post; and as in +almanacks a day before or a day after makes no difference, we were +content to accept his smiles for nine days in the beginning of December. +Again came the question--"When, in England?" &c. and I began to think we +were peculiarly favoured, when, lo! letters arrived from that vexatious +clime, speaking of "days perfectly lovely," "new summer," and all +precisely like a plagiarism on Pau. Fortunately for the reputation of +the Pyrenees, no one would, of course, credit this fact; and the English +invalids, who had been covering their mouths with handkerchiefs, and +shutting themselves up from the variations of the atmosphere, breathed +again, and at once generously forgot all but the bright sun and warm air +which had come once more to greet them. + +It was true that every leaf had long since disappeared from the trees in +the park, and that the sun glared fearfully on the high, unsheltered +walks; but the partisans of salubrity hastened to disport themselves in +its rays, till _three cases in one week_ of _coup de soleil_ began to +startle even the most presuming; and the expected death of one of the +patients, together with _another change_ of weather to wet, cold, and +fog, silenced further remark. + +We were assured that the extraordinary alternations of climate we had +experienced for two months, was a circumstance quite unheard-of before +in Pau, and we looked on ourselves as singularly unlucky in having, by +chance, chosen a season so unpropitious. A few simple persons, who +ventured to remark that the winter of last year was very similar, were +told that they must have been mistaken; and some who recollected high +winds were considered romancers. We looked at the strong _contre-vents_ +placed outside the windows of our dwelling, and wondered why such a work +of supererogation should have taken place as to put them there, if the +hurricanes we had witnessed were unusual, when I one day, during a high +wind, as I sat at home, happened to take up Palassou's Memorial des +Pyrenees, and read as follows:-- + +"TEMPERATURE OF THE LOWER PYRENEES--ITS EFFECTS OFTEN DANGEROUS. + +"It is well known that divers places differ in their temperature, +although they are situated in the same degrees of latitude; the vicinity +of the sea, of great rivers, mountainous chains, &c. renders the air +more or less hot or cold, serene or cloudy; the modifications which +these circumstances occasion are principally remarked in the countries +adjacent to the Pyrenees. Snow, frost, and abundant rains, are, for +instance, more frequent than in Languedoc or Provence, although these +climates are placed beneath the same degree of latitude as the former. + +"It is easy to believe that vegetable nature feels this influence. If we +except the plains of Roussillon, and some small cantons situated at the +foot of the eastern Pyrenees, where a mild temperature may be found, it +is to be observed that nowhere, contiguous to this chain, are seen the +odoriferous plants and trees common to the South of France. The eye +seeks in vain the pomegranate, with its rich crimson fruit; the olive +is unknown; the lavender requires the gardener's aid to grow. The usual +productions of this part are heath, broom, fern, and other plants, with +prickly thorns: these hardy shrubs seem fitted, by their sterility, to +the variable climate which they inhabit. + +"In effect, the snows of winter, covering the summits of the Pyrenees +for too long a time, prolong the cold of this rigorous season sometimes +to the middle of spring; then come the frosts which destroy the hopes of +the vine-grower. + +"'_Storms are very frequent in Bearn_,' says M. Lebret, intendant of +Bearn in 1700; he might have added," continues Palassou, "to the list of +dangers to the harvests--_the frequent and destructive fogs_ to which +the country is subject. + +"In the landes of the Pont-Long, I have often seen, in the environs of +Pau, fogs rise from those grounds covered with fern, broom, and other +naturally growing plants, while in parts more cultivated it was clear. +* * * The agriculturists of Bearn have not attempted to till the lands in +the neighbourhood of Pau, finding them too stubborn to give hopes of +return, and _the climate being so very variable_; cultivated produce +being peculiarly sensible to the effects of an air which _is one day +burning and the next icy_. + +"One might write whole volumes if it was the object to relate all the +effects of storms which, accompanied with hail, devastate the countries +in the neighbourhood of the Pyrenees. It will be sufficient to recount +what has come under my own observation. During one violent storm of +thunder and lightning, the hail-stones were _as large as hens' eggs_, +and desolated the whole range over which it swept. It was immediately +followed by a second, less furious, but which did immense damage; and +others, little less terrific, followed in the course of the +month--June." + +Palassou here goes on to describe several dreadful storms of peculiar +fury, which were more than usually destructive, and are common in these +regions. He considers, that the cutting down of the forests on the +mountains, which formerly sheltered the plains and valleys, has +contributed to increase the storms in latter years. Summer in the midst +of winter, seems by no means uncommon, and winter in summer as little +so. The _autun_, or south wind, generally brings the burning days which +so much surprised me; but, according to this author, _it is extremely +unwholesome_ and dangerous to persons inclined to apoplexy; as, indeed, +its effects during our stay at Pau led me to imagine. + +I cannot feel much confidence, I confess, in a climate where you are +told that so many precautions must be taken: for instance, you are never +to walk in the sun; you must avoid going out in the evening, at all +seasons; you must be careful not to meet the south wind; in fact, you +can scarcely move without danger. I ask myself, what can possibly induce +so many of my countrymen to travel so far for such a climate,--to put +themselves to so great an expense for such a result? for, if England is +not perfect as to climate, it has at any rate few unhealthy spots from +which you cannot readily escape to a better position: we are never in +terror of a _sirocco_,--nor need wrap up our mouths in handkerchiefs to +avoid breathing _malaria_. Our climate is variable, but less so than in +the Pyrenees; and it is scarcely worth while to go so far to find one +worse, and more dangerous to life. Hurricanes are rarer with us than +there. We may not often have such hot summers in winter, but neither do +we _often_ have such cold winters in summer. It frequently rains with +us, but it rains as often at Pau; and, however annoying are the +variations of which we complain at home, we assuredly do not escape them +by travelling eight hundred miles to take up our abode close to icy +mountains, in a dirty, damp town, in an uncomfortable house: add to +which, we gain little in economy; for Pau is as dear as Paris, without +any of the advantages of the capital. + +Altogether, the more experience I have of the climate of Pau, the more +surprised I am at the crowds of English who resort to this town for the +winter: the greatest part of them, it is true, are not invalids, but +persons seduced into this nook by its reputation, and arriving too late +in the season to leave it. They grumble, and are astonished to find +themselves no better off than if they had stayed at home; but they are, +it would seem, ashamed to confess how much they have been deceived, and, +therefore, remain silent on the subject of climate, content to praise +the beauty of the country in fine weather, and enjoy the gaieties and +hospitalities which they are sure to meet with. If people came only for +the latter advantages, I should not be surprised at their trooping +hitherward, provided they were robust enough to bear the _mildness_ of +climate; but that is not the avowed reason, and those they give are +altogether insufficient to account for the mania of wintering at Pau. + +Perhaps the best means of ascertaining the nature of the climate is by +occasionally looking over old newspapers. In a French one of Jan. 10, +1841, I was struck with this announcement: "Pau.--On Thursday last, in +the night, the snow fell so abundantly that it was half-way up the legs, +in the morning, in the streets. On Friday morning the _porte-cochere_ of +one of the _splendid hotels in our Chaussee d'Antin (!)_ opened, and +forth issued an elegant sledge, drawn by two _magnificent_ horses, +crowned with white plumes. This novel spectacle attracted the attention +of the whole town. The elegant vehicle darted along till it reached the +Rue de la Prefecture, &c. &c. and the Pont-Long." + +It must be confessed that it is seldom in any part of our _cold climate_ +that we have the power of such an exhibition in the streets. It is +reserved for the invalids who fly to the South of France to avoid a +severe winter. + +"23rd Dec. 1840. A great deal of snow has fallen between Bayonne and +Peyrehorade: the road is become almost impassable." + +But I must continue the winter as I found it at Pau in 1842 and 1843. +December, with intervals of two days' wind and rain, was extremely +pleasant, bright, and clear, and the days very long; for till half-past +four one could see to write or read: a circumstance which does not often +occur in England during this month. Christmas Day differed but little +from many I have known at home: pleasant, bright, sunny, and clear; +rather cold, but more agreeable, from its freshness, than the unnatural +heat which sometimes accompanies the sun. All the accounts from England +proved that the weather was precisely the same. For the two next days, +it was fine and very cold, with a high, _easterly_ wind; two days warm +and pleasant; then succeeded a sharp frost and bright sun; and December +closed, dull, cold, and dark. + +January began cold, sharp, and gusty--some days biting, and some black +and foggy; and from the 5th to the 12th it blew a perfect hurricane, +with thunder, one fine day intervening, and occasionally a few bright +hours in the course of some of the days. The storm on the night of the +11th was terrific, and it lasted, equally violent, with hail and +thunder, all the next day--bright gleams of sun darting out for a +moment, and revealing the mountains, to close them in again with mist +and rain before you had scarcely time to remark the change. About the +middle of the day the wind increased in violence, and the hail came down +with fury, thick grey clouds gathered over the sky, the lightning +flashed vividly, the thunder echoed far and near, and the gusts howled +as if hundreds of wolves were abroad. King Arthur and all his _meinie_ +must have been out, for the appearance over the mountains was most +singular. A broad space of clear _green-blue_ sky was seen just above +the white summits of several of the mountains, clearly showing the large +fields of snow which extended along their flat surfaces, which are +broken at the sides by projections, like buttresses, of purple rock, on +which dark shadows fell; gleams of sun illumined the edges of the snow +on the highest peaks, for a brief space, while, by degrees, the other +mountains were sinking away into a thick haze which had already covered +the nearest hills. The marshy fields on the banks of the murmuring +Gave, and the little Ousse, now swelled to large rivers, and as thick +and clay-coloured as the Garonne itself, were covered with a coating of +hail, and the snow and transparent mist were seen driving along from +peak to peak with amazing rapidity, as if they had been smoke. +Presently, the narrow space of blue sky was dotted with small grey +specks, as if showers were falling from the heavy canopy above, and, +shutting closer and closer, the great mass suddenly sank down, +concealing the glittering peaks which strove to shine out to the last. +Then all became black; the thunder roared, the wind howled, the hail +beat, and winter and storm prevailed. I watched all this with delight; +for it was impossible to see anything more sublime, and I could not but +congratulate myself that the abode we had chosen, just above the valley +and detached from the town, at the foot of the promenade of the Place +Royale, gave us an opportunity of seeing such a storm in perfection. It +was true that we often thus had our rest disturbed at night, by the +sweep of the wind along the whole range of the valley between the +_coteaux_; but its melancholy sound, bringing news, as it were, from the +mountains and the sea, was pleasant music to my ears, and startling and +exciting, when it rose to the ungovernable fury with which I became so +well acquainted during our winter at this _quiet place for invalids_! + +If Pau were recommended as a place where storms could be seen in +perfection, I should not wonder at persons crowding there, who delight +in savage nature. The gales from the 5th to the 15th continued +furiously, night and day; the wind howled from all points, rocking the +houses, and strewing the ground with ruins--then came a change to hot +quiet days for a week. + +In England, and in all parts of France, the season I am describing was +equally violent, but this only proves that Pau has no shelter on these +occasions. + +January ended with fine weather, and occasional fogs, not so dense as in +London, certainly, but as thick as in the country in England. The sun, +in the middle of the day, being always dangerously hot. My letters from +England still announced the same weather, _without the danger_. + +In February, we had a few days like August, then a heavy fall of snow, +which for eight days covered the ground, and was succeeded by burning +days; and the month ended with heavy rain and floods. March began with +cold winds and rain and sharp frost; and when I left Pau the ground was +encrusted with frost in all directions. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + THE CASTLE OF HENRI QUATRE--THE FURNITURE--THE SHELL--THE + STATUE--THE BIRTH--CASTEL BEZIAT--THE FAIRY GIFT--A CHANGE--HENRI + QUATRE. + + "Qui a vist le castig de Pau + Jamey no a viat il fait." + + +WHEN Napoleon, in 1808, passed through the town of Pau, the Bearnais +felt wounded and humbled at the indifference he showed to the memory of +their hero, Henri Quatre: he scarcely deigned to glance at the chateau +in which their cherished countryman was born; and with so little +reverence did he treat the monument dear to every heart in Bearn, that +his soldiers made it a barrack; and, without a feeling of regard or +respect for so sacred a relic, used it as cavalierly _as if it had been +a church_. They stabled their steeds in the courts of Gaston Phoebus, +they made their drunken revelry resound in the chambers of Marguerite de +Valois; and they desecrated the retreat where _La brebis a enfante un +Lio_--where Jeanne d'Albret gave birth to him, who, in the language of +his mountains, promised that every Frenchman should have a _poule au +pot_[27] in his reign. + +[Footnote 27: The _poule au Pot_ is a general dish with the Bearnais.] + +That Napoleon should not care for a royal soldier, whose fame he desired +his own deeds should eclipse; and of whom, as of all illustrious men, +living or dead, the _little_ great man was jealous, is not surprising. +He had nothing in common with Henri Quatre; and the Revolution, which +had brought him forward, had swept away antique memories. The statue of +their once-adored Henri had been cast into the Seine with ignominy, by +the French, and his name was execrated, as if he had been no better than +the legitimate race whom popular fury condemned to oblivion: Napoleon's +policy was not to restore an abandoned worship; and he would have seen +the last stone fall from the castle of Pau without notice. But that the +long line of kings, who were always boasting of their descent from the +immortal Bearnais, should have neglected, contemned, or pillaged his +birth-place, reflects little honour on the memory of any. The son of +Mary de Medici came only to Bearn after his father's death, to carry off +all that was precious in art, collected by the kings and queens of +Navarre, for centuries--treasures which, according to the historians of +the time, had not their parallel in the sixteenth century. The palace of +the Louvre became rich in the spoils of Bearn: tapestry, pictures, +furniture, objects of _virtu_ of all kinds were borne away, and nothing +left in its original place. Louis the Fourteenth and his successor +occupied themselves little with the country, except to levy subsidies +upon it: they knew nor cared nothing for Navarre; except as it supplied +them with titles or gave them funds. Louis the Sixteenth, the last of +the Bourbons who took the oath to observe the _Fors_[28] of Bearn, +promised to act differently, and to occupy himself with this forgotten +nook of his dominions; but the fatal events, prepared by his profligate +predecessors of the last two reigns, which hurled him from his throne, +prevented the accomplishment of his intentions. + +[Footnote 28: The celebrated Laws of Bearn are called _Les Fors_.] + +As for the sovereign people, when they became rulers, the contempt with +which they overwhelmed everything aristocratic, was bestowed in full +measure on the abode of him who had been their friend: and the triumph +of vengeance, ignorance, and ingratitude, was complete, here as +elsewhere. + +The neglected castle of the sovereigns of Bearn,--for none of whom, +except the immediate family of the brave and bold Henry, need one care +to be a champion--remained then a mighty heap of ruin, which every +revolving year threatened to bring nearer to utter destruction; when +another revolution, like an earthquake, whose shock may restore to their +former place, rocks, which a preceding convulsion had removed, came to +"renew old AEson:" Louis Philippe, to whom every nook and corner of his +extensive kingdom seems familiar, so far from forgetting the _berceau_ +of his great ancestor, hastened to extend to the castle of Pau a saving +hand, and to bring forth from ruin and desolation the fabric which weeds +and ivy were beginning to cover, and which would soon have been ranged +with the shells of Chinon, Loches, and other wrecks of days gone by. + +When the architect, employed by the king to execute the Herculean labour +of restoring the castle of Pau, first arrived, and saw the state of +dilapidation into which it had fallen, he must have been appalled at the +magnitude of his undertaking. Seeing it, as I do now,[29] grim, damp, +rugged, ruined, and desolate, even in its state of transition, after +several years of toil have been spent upon its long-deserted walls; I +can only feel amazed that the task of renovating a place so decayed +should ever have been attempted; but, after what has been done, it may +well be hoped and expected that the great work will be, in the end, +fully accomplished; and ten years hence, the visitor to Pau will +disbelieve all that has been said of the melancholy appearance of the +chateau of Henri Quatre. + +[Footnote 29: This was written on the spot.] + +What must have been the state of things before the pretty bridge, which +spans the road and leads from the castle terrace to the walk, called La +Basse Plante, existed? I am told that a muddy stream, bordered with +piles of rubbish, filled up this portion of the scene; but, in less than +a year, all was changed, and the pleasant terrace and neat walks which +adorn this side of the castle are promises of much more, equally +ornamental and agreeable. + +Some of the tottering buildings attached to the strangely-irregular +mass, were, it seems, condemned by the bewildered architect to +demolition, as possessing no beauty, and encumbering the plans of +improvement; but the late Duke of Orleans came to visit the castle, and +had not the heart to give consent that any of the old walls, still +standing, should be swept away. He looked at the place with true poetic +and antiquarian feeling, and arrested the hand of the mason, who would +have destroyed that part called _La Chancellerie_, which extends between +the donjon of Gaston Phoebus to the Tour Montauzet. The prince +represented to his father his views on the subject, which were instantly +adopted--a question of taste in that family meets with no +opposition--and all was to have been arranged according to the ideas of +the heir of France, who seemed inclined to make Pau an abode at a +_future day_: the King was to have visited the interesting old castle: +much animated discussion and much enthusiasm prevailed on the subject in +the interior of the royal circle, and the Berceau of Henri Quatre seemed +destined to proud days again. + +"When, hush! hark! a deep sound comes like a rising knell!" + +The wail of a whole nation tells that that _anticipated future_ may not +come! A cloud has again gathered over the valley of the Gave, and a sad +pause--the pause of blighted hopes--has chilled the expectations in +which Bearn had ventured to indulge. + +But the castle is not, even now, neglected: the architects are still +there; workmen are still busy, chiseling and planing; the beautiful +arabesques and reliefs are coming forth to view, restored with all their +original delicacy: the ceilings are glowing with fresh gilding, the +walls are bright with fresh tapestry, and the rooms are newly floored. +But for the dreadful event which must cast a gloom over France for some +years, the castle would, probably, have been sufficiently put in order +for a royal visitor this year; but all the magnificent furniture, sent +down from Paris to fit up the _suite_ intended for use, now stands +unarranged, and a stop is put to embellishment. Amongst the most curious +and interesting pieces of this furniture, are the bed and chair of +Jeanne d'Albret, her screen--perhaps worked by her own hand--and the bed +of Henry II.: all fine specimens of art in this style; the latter, in +particular, is quite unique, and is one of the most curious I have ever +seen: the sculpture is very elaborate; at the foot reclines, in relief, +a Scotch guard, such as always lay at the threshold of the sovereign, at +the period when this piece of furniture was made. An owl of _singular +expression_ sits watching, opposite, surrounded by foliage and poppies, +quite in character with the sleepy scene: the posts of the bedstead are +beautifully turned: it is so formed as to draw out and close in, forming +a _bed by night_, _a cabinet by day_; and the carved arch at the back is +sculptured in the most exquisite manner. A _prie-Dieu_ of the same date +is near; but all this furniture is merely _housed_ for the present, as +nothing is arranged; one, of course, looks at these specimens with an +admiration which has nothing to do with Henri Quatre's castle, as they +would be equally well placed in M. de Somerard's museum, at the +delightful Hotel de Cluny. + +A tapestry screen, said to be of the time of Charles VII., has a place +in this heterogeneous collection: it represents the Maid of Orleans, +crowned by victorious France, whose _lilies_ are restored, and her +enemies trampled under her feet; in the back-ground is the sea, with +strange-looking monsters huddled into its waves, in apparent terror: +these are the Leopards of England taking flight from the shores of +France. The colours are well preserved in this piece of work, and the +whole composition deserves to be remarked, if not for the correctness of +its drawing, for the _naivete_ of its details. + +It might have been better to have filled the castle with furniture +belonging exclusively to the time, or anterior to that of Henry IV.; and +it struck me that much which has arrived from Paris, of the period of +Louis XIV., is out of keeping with the _souvenirs_ of the castle of Pau. +I almost hope that, if ever it is entirely restored, these pieces of +furniture will be banished, and others, more antique, substituted. The +tapestry with which the walls are covered is very curious and +appropriate; it is chiefly of the time of Francis I.; and some beautiful +Gobelins, of modern date, representing different scenes in the life of +Henry, equally so. + +The most, indeed the only, beautiful portions of the castle, are the +ceilings of the principal staircase and passages leading from it; the +medallions of which present the heads of Marguerite de Valois and her +husband, Henry d'Albret, with their interlaced initials and arms on the +walls: these again occur on the mantel-pieces, in the midst of very +exquisite arabesques, which the skill of the modern sculptor is +restoring with singular delicacy. + +The object which excites the most interest in the castle, is the famous +shell of a tortoise, of immense size, said to have served as a cradle to +the little hero whose birth was hailed with such rapture by his +expectant grandfather. One would fain believe that this is indeed the +identical _berceau de Henri IV._ so much talked of; but it is difficult +to reconcile all the improbabilities of its being so: the substitution +of another, after the real shell had been burnt in the castle-court, may +do credit to those who cherish the hero's name; always provided no less +generous motive induced the act; but the tale told to prove its identity +is, unfortunately, not convincing. + +The shell is suspended in the centre of a chamber, formerly the _salle +de reception_ of Henry II. d'Albret, and surrounded with trophies, in +tawdry taste, which it is the intention to have removed, and the gilt +helmet and feathers replaced by some armour really belonging to King +Henry. + +Those who contend for this being the genuine shell say, that, when on +the 1st of May, 1793, the revolutionary mob came howling into the +castle-court, with the intention of destroying every relic of royalty, +the precious shell was hastily removed, and _another put in its place_, +belonging to a loyal subject who had been induced to sacrifice his own +to save the public treasure. M. de Beauregard had, it seems, a cabinet +of natural history, in which was a tortoise-shell of very similar size +and appearance: this he gave up, and, with the assistance of other +devoted persons, it was conveyed to the castle, and put into the +accustomed place, while the real shell was carefully hidden in a secure +retreat. The mob seized upon the substitute, and, with frantic cries, +danced round the fire in the court while they saw it burn to ashes, +little dreaming how they had been deceived: years after, the truth was +revealed, and the cradle of the Bearnais was produced in triumph. +Whether, in the midst of the terror attending the proceedings of savages +athirst for blood, it was likely that such cool precautions were taken +to save a _relic_ when _lives_ were at stake, is a question which seems +easily answered; but there is such a charm about the belief, that, +perhaps, _'tis folly to be wise_ on the subject. + +The fine marble statue of Henry, which is appropriately placed in one of +the chambers, was executed soon after the battle of Ivry: it is by +Francavilla, and very expressive: it belonged to the Gallery of Orleans, +and was presented to the town of Pau by the King. + +The room said to be that where Henry was born, and where Jeanne d'Albret +sang the famous invocation, "_Notre Dame au bout du Pont_," is on the +second story of a tower, from whence, as from all this side of the +castle, is a magnificent view of the mountains, and the valley of the +Gave. There is nothing now left but bare walls; but on the chimney is +sculptured the tortoise-shell cradle, and the arms of Bearn and Navarre; +these rooms will be all repaired and restored; at present, the whole +_suite_ reminded me of the desolation of the castle of Blois, which was +desecrated in the same manner by soldiery, who made it a barrack. The +room which was Henry's nursery has a few of the original rude rafters of +the ceiling remaining, which one would wish should not be removed; but +it is said that it is necessary. The thick coating of whitewash cleared +away from the chimney-piece will, probably, disclose more sculpture, +similar to that in the other rooms. + +Queen Jeanne had been unfortunate in losing her other children, one of +whom died in a melancholy manner. While she was out hunting with her +father and her husband, the nurse and one of her companions, being at a +loss to amuse themselves, thought of a game, in which they threw the +child from one window to the other, catching it in turns. The poor +little prince was made the victim to this cruel folly, for he fell on +the balcony which extended along the first-floor, and broke one of his +ribs. He suffered much, and survived only a few days. No wonder Queen +Jeanne sent her little son, Henry, to a cottage, to be nursed, where +there was no upper story! + +Nothing can be less imposing, on the interior side of the court, than +the castle of Pau: ruined, dilapidated buildings surround the rugged old +well which stands in the centre; towers and _tourelles_, of various +shapes, lift their grey and green and damp-stained heads in different +angles; low door-ways, encumbered with dust and rubbish, open their dark +mouths along the side opposite the red square tower of Gaston Phoebus, +which frowns at its equally grim brother, whose mysterious history no +one knows; other doors and windows are finely-sculptured; and +medallions, much defaced, adorn the walls. + +On these antique towers, it is said the thunder never fell but +once--_that once_ was on the 14th of May, 1610, at the very moment when +the steel of Ravaillac found the heart of Henry of Navarre. The event is +thus recorded:-- + +"A fearful storm burst over the town of Pau on this day; a thunderbolt +fell, and defaced the royal arms over the castle-gateway; and a fine +bull, which was called _the King_, from its stately appearance, the +chief of a herd called _the royal herd_, terrified by the noise and +clamour, precipitated itself over the walls into the ditch of the +castle, and was killed. The people, hurrying to the spot, called out The +_King_ is dead! The news of the fatal event in Paris reached Pau soon +after, and they found their loss indeed irreparable." + +The shades of Henry and Sully are said sometimes _to walk_ along the +ramparts even now; and it was formerly believed that near the great +reservoir, into which it was said Queen Jeanne used to have her Catholic +prisoners thrown, numerous ghosts of injured men might be seen flitting +to and fro. One evening I was returning, later than usual, from the +promenade in the park, and had paused so often on my way to observe the +effect of the purple and rosy-tinted mountains glowing with the last +rays of sunset, that it was in quite a dim light that I reached the spot +beneath which the ivied head of the old, ruined, red Tour de la Monnaie +shows the rents of its _machicoulis_. A double row of young trees is +planted here, at the foot of the artificial mound which supports the +castle walls, and at the end of the alley is the reservoir, with the +square tower of Gaston Phoebus above it. I was startled by a sudden +apparition, so vivid that it seemed impossible to mistake its form, +passing by the reservoir, as if after descending the steep which leads +to it. I _seemed to see_ a grey, transparent figure in armour, the head +covered with a helmet, with a pointed frontlet, such as I had seen in an +old gallery, filled with rusty coats of arms, at the Chateau of +Villebon, near Chartres, where Sully had lived for five-and-twenty +years, and where he died. The figure was slight, and moved slowly, +waving its head gently: it was in good proportion, but at least eight +feet high. I stopped astonished, for the vision was so very plain--and +then it was gone. I continued my way, and again I saw it, and it +appeared as if several others, less tall, but still in armour, were by +its side, by no means so distinct. I paused again, it was growing darker +and darker, and I then could distinguish nothing but a row of slender +trees, whose delicate leaves were shivering in the evening breeze, and +whose stems waved to and fro. I went home--through the chill damp castle +court, and across the bridge to the dismal street--impressed with an +agreeable, though somewhat tremulous conviction, that I must have seen +some of the ghosts which haunt the walks of the old castle. + +I expected to hear that the memory of Queen Jeanne was venerated on this +spot; but was surprised to find that she holds a place in tradition +little more honourable than that occupied by our bloody Queen Mary; for +there is scarcely any atrocity in history of which she is not the +heroine: whatever might have been her fame with her Protestant subjects, +those who succeeded them seemed carefully to have treasured the +remembrance of all the cruelties executed by her orders, which, it must +be acknowledged, were little in accordance with the religion of peace +she professed to have adopted. Her son, whose faith was of so changeable +a character that it suited all parties, is the pride and boast of the +country; but the object of love appears to be the amiable Princess +Catherine, his sister, for whom her mother built, in a secluded spot in +the royal park, a residence, called _Castel Beziat_, the last stones of +which have now disappeared, as well as the _gardens_ originally planted +by Gaston XI., in 1460, and said, in the time of Henri II. and +Marguerite, _to be the finest in Europe_. It is difficult now to imagine +where they were; but they are said to have been on the south side, and +probably extended along that part now occupied by the Basse Plante and +the baths of Henri Quatre, as far as the present entrance of the park. + +Catherine was more sought in marriage, perhaps, than any princess of her +time; but her only attachment--which was an unfortunate one--was to the +Count de Soissons, who, being her brother's enemy, avowed or concealed, +was an unfit match for her, and the alliance was opposed by all her +friends. She seemed to possess the accomplishments of her grandmother +and mother, and was very popular in Bearn, which she governed, during +Henry the Fourth's absence, with great justice and judgment; the +Bearnais, however, greatly offended her by their violent opposition to +her marriage with the person she had chosen; and she left the Castle of +Pau in anger, and never returned. She was forced into a marriage with +the Duke de Bar, and her people saw her no more. + +There is a romantic story told of an act of the princess's, which shows +her kind character, and amiable feeling. There was formerly in the +gardens of Castel (or Castet) Beziat, (the _Castle of the beloved,_) a +fountain, afterwards called _Des cents Ecus_, which had its name from +the following circumstances: + +The Princess Catherine of Navarre was one day walking in a musing mood, +probably thinking of the many difficulties which opposed her union with +him she loved, and almost wishing that her stars had made her one of the +careless peasant-girls who tended her flocks in the green meadows beside +the murmuring Gave; for happiness was denied her, as she said in after +times, when married to a man who was indifferent to her, "Qu'elle +n'avait pas son _compte_," mournfully playing on her disappointment. +Suddenly she heard voices, and, peeping through the thick foliage, she +perceived two young girls seated by the side of the fountain. One was +drowned in tears, and the other was leaning over her, with tender words +and caresses, endeavouring to console her sorrows. "Alas!" said the fair +distressed, "I can see no end to my sorrow, for poverty is the cause; +you know, my parents have nothing but what they gain by labour, and +though _his_ friends are richer, their avarice is extreme; and they say +their son's bride must have a dower of a hundred crowns. Ah! my dear +friend, what hope then have I! I have heard that there are fairies who +have the power to assist true love; if I knew where they were to be +found I would consult them, for never was love truer than ours, or more +unfortunate." + +Her friend did not attempt to combat her affection, but encouraged her +with soothing words to have patience, and hope for the best. "Let us +meet again here," said she, "every day, and devise some plan; perhaps +Heaven will hear our prayers, and take compassion on your sorrow. +To-morrow, at this hour, let us meet." "We will so," said the weeping +girl, "for if I have no other consolation,--you, at least, give me that +of talking of him." + +The friends departed, leaving the listening princess full of interest +and curiosity: she was resolved to surprise and befriend the lovers +whose case was so touching. "There is, then, equal sorrow in a lowly +state," she mused, "and love seems always doomed to tears; however, +there are some obstacles which fortune permits to be removed--would that +I could look forward to relief, as I am resolved these shall!" + +The next day saw the two friends again seated on the borders of the +fountain; but scarcely had they taken their accustomed place, when they +observed, lying on a stone close by, a little bag which seemed to +contain something heavy; they opened it, and found a paper, on which +these words were written: "Behold what has been sent you by a _fairy_." +The delight of this discovery may be imagined, and the pleasure of the +princess, by whose command, a few days afterwards, the union of the +lovers was accomplished. + +It appears that the Castle of Pau was originally built in 1360, or about +that time, by the famous prince, Gaston Phoebus, of Foix, who called +himself, when addressing the Princess of Wales, "_a poor knight who +builds towns and castles._" The great hero of Froissart is even more +identified with Pau and its neighbourhood than Henry the Fourth himself, +who, though he was born here, lived more at Coarraze and Nerac than in +this castle of his ancestors; for he was even nursed in the village of +Billieres near, where his nurse's house is still shown. + +Catherine de Medicis, and her beautiful and dangerous _troupe_ of +ladies, on the famous progress she made to Bayonne, visited the Castle +of Pau, with a deep interest; she there succeeded in detaching the +affections of the weak father of Henry from his noble-minded wife, and +in laying the foundation of that tragedy which her dauntless and +vindictive spirit had conceived. The massacre of St. Bartholomew may be +said to have begun on the day that those fatal visitors crossed the +drawbridge of the Castle of Pau. Her daughter, Marguerite, the victim of +her schemes--an unwilling actor in the drama--suffered much sorrow and +privation within these walls, after her marriage with a prince who +never could surmount the distaste which circumstances of such peculiar +horror as attended their union had given him; and the once cheerful +place--the scene of splendour for centuries--lost its glory and its +happy character after the beloved family of Queen Jeanne had deserted +its towers. + +Everything connected with the birth of Henry IV. is in general +well-known, and has been so frequently repeated, that it is almost +unnecessary to relate any circumstances attending that anxiously +looked-for event,--cordially hailed by his grandfather, Henry. The +account, however, given by Favyn is so characteristic that it cannot but +be read with interest _a-propos_ of the chateau where it occurred: + +"The Princess of Navarre, being near her term, took leave of her +husband, and set out from Compeign the 15th of November. She crossed all +France to the Pyrenees, and directed her steps to Pau, where her father, +the King of Navarre, then was. She arrived in the town after eighteen +days' journey. King Henry had made his will, which the princess was very +anxious to see; because it had been represented to her that it was to +her disadvantage, and in favour of _a lady who governed_ her father. For +this cause, though she had tried every means to get a sight of it, it +was a thing impossible; the more so, as, on her arrival, she had found +the king ill, and dared not speak to him on the subject. But the coming +of his _good girl_, as he called her, so delighted him that it set him +on his legs again. The princess was endowed with a fine natural +judgment, fostered by the reading of good books, to which she was much +addicted; her humour was so lively that it was impossible to be dull +where she was; one of the most learned and eloquent princesses of her +time, she followed the steps of Marguerite, her mother, and was mistress +of all the elegant accomplishments of the age. The king, who was aware +of her wish respecting the will, told her she should have it when she +had shown him her child; and, taking from his cabinet a great box, shut +with a lock, the key of which he wore round his neck by a chain of gold, +which encompassed it five-and-twenty or thirty times, he opened the box, +and showed her the will. But he only showed it at a little distance; and +then locked it up again, saying, 'This box and its contents shall be +yours; but, in order that you may not produce me a crying girl or a puny +creature, I promise to give you all on condition that, while the infant +is being born, you sing a Gascon or Bearnais song; and I will be by.' He +had lodged his daughter in a room in the second story of his castle of +Pau; and his chamber was immediately beneath: he had given her, to guard +her, one of his old _valets de chambre_, Cotin, whom he commanded never +to stir from the princess night nor day, to serve her in her chamber, +and to come and tell him the instant she was taken ill, and to wake him +if he was in ever so deep a sleep. Ten days after the princess's arrival +at Pau, between twelve and one o'clock at night, the day of St. Lucie, +13th of December, 1553, the king was called by Cotin, and hurried to her +chamber: she heard him coming, and began immediately singing the +canticle, which the Bearnais women repeat when lying in: + + "Noustre Dame deou cap deou poun, + Adjoudat me a d'aqueste hore," + +for at the end of every bridge in Gascony is an oratory, dedicated to +the Virgin, called, _Our Lady at the end of the bridge_; and that over +the Gave, which passes into Bearn from Jurancon, was famous for its +miracles in favour of lying-in women. The King of Navarre went on with +the canticle; and had no sooner finished it than the prince was born who +now reigns over France. Then the good king, filled with great joy, put +the chain of gold round the neck of the princess, and gave her the box +containing the will, saying, 'This is your property, and this is mine;' +at the same time taking the infant, which he wrapped in a piece of his +robe, and carried away to his chamber. The little prince came into the +world without crying, and the first nourishment he had was from the +hand of his grandfather; for, having taken a clove of garlic, he rubbed +his little lips with it; then, in his golden cup, he presented him wine; +_at the smell of which, the child having lifted up his head_, he put a +drop in his mouth, which he swallowed very well. At which the good king, +full of joy, exclaimed, before all the ladies and gentlemen in the room, +'You will be a true Bearnais!' kissing him as he spoke." + +Every time I pass through the court-yard of this dilapidated building, I +feel that it can never revive from its ruin; the desolation is too +complete; the defacement too entire. What interest can exist in +restorations to effect which so much must be cleared and scraped away +that scarcely a trace of what was original can remain? How restore those +medallions on the outer walls, which the taste of the first Fair +Marguerite, and her Henry, placed in rows at one extremity of the court? +how restore those beautifully-carved door-ways, and cornices, and +sculptured windows, elaborate to the very roof? or renew the _facade_ +next the mountains without effacing that singular line of _machicoulis_ +which divides the stages. How replace the terrace--once existing, but +long gone--without destroying venerable morsels of antiquity, precious +in their ugliness! and how render the whole place sightly without +clearing away the rubbish of the old _Tour_ _de la Monnaie_, now built +in with shabby tenements? Yet this will probably be done. Considering +the state of the town, and the many improvements requisite in it, it +would seem more judicious, perhaps, to effect, these, and to abandon the +idea of _restoring_ the castle. To repave the court, and clear away +dirt, might be done with little time and cost; and the old fabric would +not suffer by this act. At present the most neglected part is the +entrance; and it is sufficiently unsightly. However, I ought to +congratulate myself that I did not see it _when it was worse_--as I am +constantly told when I complain of the wretched state of the streets. + +It is said that part of the royal family are even yet expected to pay a +visit to Pau, in the course of next spring, to be present at the +inauguration of a new statue of the Great Henry, lately arrived, which +is to be erected in the Place Royale.[30] + +[Footnote 30: Since this was written, the visit has been paid, and the +ceremony gone through.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + TROUBADOUR. + + +NAVARRE has not produced many poets in early times; and the only +troubadour whom it claims, is the famous lover of Blanche of Castile, +the accomplished Thibault of Champagne, who rather belongs to Provins, +where he lived so much, and sang so many of his beautiful lays, than to +the Pyrenees. All critics, ancient and modern, from Dante to the Abbe +Massieu, have agreed in admiring his compositions, in which grace, +tenderness, and refinement, shine out in every line, encumbered though +his language be with its antique costume. His mother was Blanche, +daughter of Sancho the Wise, King of Navarre; his birth took place in +1201, a few months after the death of his father; and it was with +difficulty the persecuted widow could retain her government of Champagne +and Brie. In 1234, he was called to the throne of Navarre, by the death +of his maternal uncle, Sancho le Fort. Soon after this, he left for the +Holy Land; therefore, what time he spent in Navarre, does not appear. On +his return from _Romanie_, he died at Pampluna, in 1253, and was buried +at his beloved Provins, that city of nightingales and roses. + +His songs are very numerous, and have much originality. The following +will serve as specimens: + + CHANSON. + + * * * * * + + "Je n'ose chanter trop tart, ne trop souvent." + + * * * * * + + "I FEAR to sing too seldom or too long-- + I cannot tell if silence be the best, + Or if at all to tune my tender song-- + For she denies me pity, hope, and rest. + Yet, in my lay, I might some note awake, + To please her ear more than all lays before; + Though thus, she seems a cruel joy to take, + That I should slowly suffer evermore. + + "At once I'd cast my idle lute away, + If I were sure no pleasure could be mine; + But love has made my thoughts so much his prey, + I do not dare to love her, nor resign. + Thus I stand trembling and afraid to fly, + Till I have learnt to _hate_ her--lovingly. + + "By love and hate's alternate passions torn, + How shall I turn me from my thronging woes? + Ah! if I perish, tortured and forlorn, + But little glory from such triumph flows. + She has no right to keep me her's, in thrall, + Unless she will be mine, my own, my all! + + "Well does she know how to delight--inflame, + With soft regards and smiles and words at will, + And none within her magic ever came, + But learnt to hope he was the favour'd still. + She is worth all the conquests she has won: + But I may trust too far--and be undone! + + "She keeps me ling'ring thus in endless doubt, + And, as she pleases, holds me in her chain, + Grants she no smiles--I can adore without; + And this she knows, and I reproach in vain! + I am content to wait my chance, even now, + If she will but one ray of hope allow." + + * * * * + + JEU-PARTIE. + + "BALDWIN, tell me frank and true, + What a lover ought to do; + One, who, loving well and long, + Suff'ring and enduring wrong, + At his lady's summons flies, + And presents him to her eyes, + With a welcome, when they meet, + Should he kiss her lips or feet? + + "Sire, methinks he would be loth, + Not to kiss her rosy mouth; + For a kiss at once descends + To the heart and makes them friends; + Joy and sweetness, hope and bliss, + Follow in that tender kiss. + + "Baldwin, nay, you ought to know, + He who dares such freedom show-- + As though a shepherd maid were she, + Would never in her favour be: + + I would kneel in humble guise, + For I know her fair and wise, + And humility may gain + Smiles no boldness could obtain. + + "Sire, though modest semblance oft + Meet a guerdon, coy and soft, + And timid lovers sometimes find + Reward both merciful and kind: + Yet to the lips prefer the feet + Seems to my mind a care unmeet. + + "Baldwin--for worlds I would not lose + Her mouth, her face, her hand--but choose + To kiss her pretty feet, that she + May see how humble truth can be. + But you are bold and daring still; + And know Love's gentle lore but ill. + + "Sire, he must be a craven knight, + Who, with her lovely lips in sight, + Is all content and happy found, + To kiss her foot-print on the ground! + + "Baldwin, quick gains are quickly o'er, + Got with much ease, and prized no more. + When at her feet, entranced, I lie, + No evil thought can hover night. + And she his love will faithful call, + Who asked no boon, and gave her all." + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + ROAD FROM PAU TO TARBES--TABLE-LAND--THE PICS--THE HARAS OF + TARBES--AUTUMN IN THE PYRENEES--MONT L'HERIS--GABRIELLE + D'ESTREES--CHASSE AUX PALOMBES--PENNE DE L'HERIS--PIC DU + MIDI--CHARLET THE GUIDE--VALLEY OF CAMPAN--LA GATTA--GRIP--THE + TOURMALET--CAMPANA DEL VASSE--BAREGES-LUZ--CAGOT + DOOR--GAVARNIE--THE FALL OF THE ROCK--CHAOS--CIRCUS--MAGNIFICENCE + OF NATURE--PONT DE NEIGE--ROLAND--DURENDAL--IZARDS--LES + CRANES--PIEREFITTE--CAUTERETZ--CERIZET--PONT D'ESPAGNE--LAC DE + GAUBE--ARGELEZ. + + +THE road between Pau and Tarbes,[31] like most of the roads south of the +Garonne, is an extremely fine one; it is perfectly macadamized, and +admirably well kept; indeed, in this respect, the improvement that +appears all over France is quite remarkable; but if superiority can be +claimed anywhere it certainly belongs to Bearn and Bigorre. It is not, +however, the _condition_ of the road between the two towns that forms +the attraction; it is the exquisite scenery that meets the eye wherever +a break in the woods, or an inequality of the ground reveals the +magnificent chain of the Pyrenees. For some distance after leaving Pau +the road is nearly level; but about half-way to Tarbes, after passing +through a thick wood of oak, and having been rendered impatient by +occasional glimpses of the mountains, the traveller climbs a long and +winding ascent, and reaches the summit of a fine table-land, from whence +an uninterrupted view of this glorious country is obtained. Rich forests +of chesnut clothe the steep sides of this table-land, and stretch far +away to the southward, mingling with the well-cultivated plains that +border the Gave de Pau; beyond these rise, in gradual succession, the +lower ranges of the mountains, whose real height is entirely lost in the +grandeur of the more stupendous Pyrenean giants, extending as far as the +eye can reach, from the Mont Perdu at one extremity, and far beyond the +Pic du Midi of the Vallee d'Ossau, at the other. The general colour of +these noble mountains is a deep purple, which becomes even more intense, +and approaches almost to blackness, until it melts away in the misty +valleys beneath. The outline is not only irregular in form, but various +in its hue; some of the loftiest heights of the foremost range being +patched with snow, while, still more distant and shining in the sun, +appear the dazzling peaks of eternal ice, piercing the deep blue sky +wherein they dwell. + +[Footnote 31: For the whole account of the Hautes Pyrenees, I am +indebted to my brother, Mr. Dudley Costello, who made the excursion +while I remained at Pau.] + +This table-land is traversed for several miles over a broken common, +variegated with heath and fern, and intersected here and there by +brawling streams, which take their course to swell the tributaries of +the distant Gave. At the eastern extremity of the common, another wide +forest of chesnut appears, where the road rapidly descends with many +windings to the plain of Bigorre. One of these turns offers the +loveliest picture it is possible to imagine. The foreground is formed of +steep, rough banks, through which the road winds its sinuous track, the +thick yet graceful foliage of the chesnut rises like a frame on either +hand, and spreads also in front, while the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, with +snow on its summit, and the Pic de Montaigu, with its sharp, dark +outline, complete the distance. To give life to the scene, there are the +peasants and market-women on their way to the fair of Tarbes,--the +former wearing the characteristic brown _berret_, and the latter the +black or scarlet-peaked hood, which gives quite a clerical air to their +costume. Indeed, to see the women carelessly bestriding their active +Bigourdin horses, which they manage with infinite ease, one might +readily fancy, at a slight distance, that it was rather a party of monks +of the olden time wending to their monastery, than a group of peasants +laden with their market-ware. A little further, the road abruptly turns +again, and Tarbes lies before us, distant about four or five miles, +supported by another range of mountains, amongst which the Pic d'Orbizan +is most conspicuous. The plain of Bigorre is now soon gained, and in +half an hour we stand in the Place de Maubourguet, in the centre of +Tarbes. + +Tarbes, as a city, has little to recommend it beyond its situation, in +the midst of a fertile plain, watered by the Adour, some of whose +tributary streams run through the streets, imparting freshness and +securing cleanliness. It has nothing to reveal to the lover of +antiquity--no vestige remaining of the architecture of the period when +Tarbes was celebrated as the place where the Black Prince held his +court. + +The cathedral is a modern building, possessing no claim to notice; and, +except the royal _Haras_, there is nothing to detain the traveller. +Here, however, are some fine horses,--the best amongst them English, +except, indeed, a superb black barb, named Youssouf, once the property +of an ex-foreign minister more famous in the Tribune than on the Champ +de Mars. In consequence, as I was informed by one of the grooms, of the +minister's indifferent equitation, his majesty, Louis-Philippe, +purchased the barb and sent it hither. The most noticeable steeds +besides, are Rowlestone, Sir Peter, Windcliffe, and Skirmisher--the last +thirty-seven years' old--whose names bespeak their origin; there is also +a fine Arab from Algiers, named Beni. The Haras is beautifully kept, and +is surrounded by a fine garden, from whence the view of the distant +mountains, beyond Bagneres de Bigorre, is exceedingly grand. + +In that direction I decided upon bending my steps, and, returning to my +hotel in the Place Maubourguet, my preparations for departure were soon +made. + +The distance from Tarbes to Bagneres de Bigorre is not more than five +leagues, and the road thither would seem to be perfectly level, were it +not for the impetuous flow of the Adour, along the left bank of which we +travel, reminding us of the gradual ascent. The country is everywhere +highly cultivated; and the peasants were busily employed with their +second crops of hay, and securing their harvest of Indian corn. One +historical site attracts attention on leaving Tarbes;--the old Chateau +of Odos, where died, in 1549, "La Marguerite de Marguerites," Queen of +Navarre, the sister of Francis the First, whose name will ever be +associated with that of her adopted country. On this spot we lay down +our recollections of the past, absorbed, as we approach the mountains, +in the thoughts which their magnificence inspires,--which, while they, +too, speak of the past, are ever appealing to the present, in their +changeless forms and still enduring beauty, their might, their majesty, +and their loneliness. + +The watering-place of Bagneres has been described by so many tourists, +that I spare the description here; and the more readily as it was nearly +deserted when I arrived. This was no drawback to one whose desire was to +enjoy the last days of autumn amongst the mountains while the weather +yet continued fine,--and lovely that autumn weather is, atoning by the +richness of its colours for the absence of beauties which belong to an +earlier season. + +I accordingly made all the necessary arrangements for a guide and horses +to cross the Tourmalet on the next day, and devoted the remainder of a +lovely afternoon to the ascent of Mont L'Heris--a mountain that supplies +the botanist with treasures almost inexhaustible. Crossing the Adour by +a rude bridge of only one plank, and traversing some fields, filled with +labourers busily employed in getting in their harvest of Indian corn, I +reached the pretty little village of Aste, which lies buried in a deep +gorge, at the south-eastern base of the mountain. Aste has associations +connected with Henri Quatre; for in the castle, now a mere shell, once +resided the beautiful Gabrielle d'Estrees, who used here to receive her +royal lover. The Seigneur du Village is the Duc de Grammont--a name +which appears singularly out of keeping with this romantic and secluded +spot. + +The ascent of Mont L'Heris is steep but not difficult, for the profusion +of flowers and richly-scented plants, scattered over the short elastic +turf, beguile the climber's path, and lure him pleasantly upward. The +first pause I made was on a bold projection, skirting the forest of +Haboura on one side, and on the other hanging over the beautiful valley +of Campan. Beneath me lay the town of Bagneres, and, far as the eye +could reach, extended the plain of Bigorre, with the clear waters of the +Adour marking their track like a silver thread. On the slope of a +neighbouring mountain the wild-pigeon hunters were spreading their nets; +for the _Chasse aux Palombes_ is nowhere so successfully followed as in +this part of the Pyrenees. It is a simple sport; but highly productive +to those engaged in it. I pursued my route towards the summit of the +mountain, the "_Penne de l'Heris_," as it is still called, retaining its +Celtic name. To do so, it was necessary to plunge into the thicket, and +for a long time I made my way scrambling over the slippery surface of +mossy rocks, as best I might, by the aid of the roots and lower branches +of the forest-trees. At length I emerged from the wood, and stood upon +the fertile pastures of the mountain; from whence the ascent to the +immense block of marble which crowns Mont l'Heris, is tolerably easy. It +is a singular mass, on the southern side of which is an enormous +excavation; amongst the _debris_ of which was a path that led to the +top. If the view below was lovely, this was magnificent; my eyes were, +however, riveted on one object--the towering height of the _Pic du +Midi_, which seemed almost immediately above my head; though the +mountain on the other side of the valley of Campan at our feet, showed +us how far distant it really was. Directed by the peasant-guide, who had +volunteered his services at Aste, I contrived to form a tolerable notion +of the track which I was to pursue on the morrow; and it was only the +warning shadows which began to creep over the valleys, and the clear +tones of the church bells, at Bagneres, marking the hour at which I had +promised to join the _table d'hote_ at the Hotel de France, that +expressively told me to loiter no longer on the mountains, lest darkness +should entangle my feet before I had cleared its steep declivities. I +made haste, therefore, to return to Bagneres, crossing the Adour this +time by a bridge no less picturesque than the former, but somewhat more +secure. + +On the following morning I rose at daylight, and, at the moment fixed +upon, Charlet, the guide, whom I had agreed with, rode up to the door +of the hotel, leading another small, sturdy, mountain horse, and +accompanied by the inseparable companion of his wanderings, a bull-dog +named Pluto, which, had sex been considered, should have been called +Proserpine, though not for beauty. + +We were soon clear of the town, and jogged pleasantly along the road, +which lay through the lovely valley of Campan--a scene whose beauty +cannot be too highly extolled. On the left hand flowed the rapid waters +of the Adour, beneath heights which seemed perpendicular, though Charlet +pointed to certain irregular lines which marked the track by which the +mountaineers descend on horseback, the very idea of which was enough to +make one shudder; on the right hand, the valley spread out into a +fertile district, whose gentle slopes gradually blended themselves with +the hills which formed the spurs of lofty mountains, and finally shut in +the view. In front, was constantly visible the snowy height of the _Pic +d' Orbizan_, towering 9,000 feet above the level of the valley. + +It was a delicious morning, and the freshness of the air, the beauty of +the scenery, and the novelty of the situation, made me fain to linger in +this lovely spot; but there was too much before us to admit of delay, +and we trotted on merrily, every pause, as the road became steeper, +being filled up by the conversation of Charlet. + +It is not undeservedly that the Pyrenean guides have acquired the +reputation they enjoy for intelligence and civility; and Charlet, of the +Hotel de France, is certainly a most favourable specimen: frugal in his +habits, modest in his demeanour, and of great activity of body, he forms +the _beau ideal_ of a mountain cicerone. I asked him what superstitions +were still current in the mountains: he replied, but few; the increasing +intercourse with towns and travellers gradually effacing them from +popular belief. One, however, he named, which is curious:--Any one who +suddenly becomes rich without any visible means to account for it, is +said by the peasants to have found "_la gatta_;" in other words, to have +made a compact with the evil one, the evidence of which is afforded by +the presence of a black cat, whose stay in the dwelling of the +contracting party is productive of a gold coin, deposited every night in +his bedchamber. When the term has expired, the cat disappears, and ruin +invariably falls upon the unwary customer of the fiend. Charlet +accounted for the superstition in a very simple way. As smuggling is +constant amongst the mountaineers, so near the Spanish frontier, large +fortunes, comparatively speaking, are often made; and accident or envy +often deprives the possessor of his suddenly-acquired wealth, who may +lose his all by an information, or an unsuccessful venture. + +Two leagues from Bagneres brought us to Sainte Marie, where the roads +separate,--one leading to Luchon, the other, to the right, across the +Tourmalet, to Bareges; the latter, which we followed, here makes a very +sensible ascent, but continues passable for carriages till we arrive at +the little village of Grip--the last cluster of habitations on this side +of the chain which divides the valley of Campan from that of the Bartan. + +It is a wild and lonely place, and the loneliness of its position is +increased by our being able to mark with precision the spot where +cultivation ceases and nature asserts her uncontrolled dominion. Here +the road ceases altogether, a bridle-path alone conducting across the +still-distant ridge, called the Tourmalet, which is crowned by the +remoter heights of Neouvielle and the Pic d'Espade, from whose base +flows the Adour--a slender but impetuous stream, whose course becomes +visible only as it issues from a dense forest of black fir, which +stretches half-way up the mountain. + +The ascent to the Tourmalet occupied about two hours; and at high noon +we dismounted on the ridge, with the Bastan before us; on every side +innumerable peaks, and, winding along the valley, the road which leads +to Bareges. Besides those already named, the most conspicuous heights +are the Pic de l'Epee, the Pic de Bergons, and, at the further extremity +of the valley, the Monne, which overhangs Cauteretz, and is yet visible +from this point. The Valley of the Bastan is singularly desolate, +presenting nothing to the eye but the rugged flanks of mountains, +scored, as it would seem, by the rush of torrents, and massive rocks, +whose _debris_ lie scattered below, often obstructing the course of the +Gave, which finds its source in the melted snows of the Neouvielle. Some +of the peaks near the Tourmalet are of peculiar form: one of them, +pointed out to me by Charlet, is called the _Campana de Vasse_--the Bell +of the Valley--which the mountaineers believe is to awaken the echoes of +the Pyrenees on the day of judgment, and call the dead before the last +tribunal. + +After resting about an hour on the ridge of the Tourmalet, enjoying the +solitude of a scene which was interrupted but once--by a soldier, a +convalescent from the waters of Bareges, on his way back to join his +garrison at Tarbes,--we remounted, and rode slowly down the Bastan, +every turn of the road disclosing some fresh object to excite admiration +or surprise. When we reached Bareges, the place was entirely deserted by +visitors--even the houses were gone,--for the greater part of those +erected for the company who throng the valley in the summer, being +merely of wood, are removed to places of greater security than Bareges, +where they run the risk of being destroyed by the floods and "moving +accidents" of the mountains. We made no stay, therefore; but, like the +Lady Baussiere, "rode on" at a leisurely pace, the more fully to enjoy +the wondrous beauties of the road between Bareges and Luz, where we +arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon. + +There is only one hotel at Luz; but it is the best in the Pyrenees,--not +only for the nature of the accommodation, but the civility and attention +of the host, the hostess, and their pretty _protegee_, Marie, who acts +as waiter, _femme-de-chambre_, and _factotum_ to the establishment. A +good dinner was promised, and the promise was faithfully kept,--bear +witness the delicate blue trout, which I have nowhere met with so good, +except, perhaps, at Berne. But as there yet remained an hour or two of +daylight, I employed the interval in visiting the ruins of the old +feudal castle of St. Marie, and in sketching the church built by the +Templars, which resembles a fortalice, rather than a place of worship. I +examined the building carefully, but could not satisfy myself that I had +really discovered the walled-up entrance, by which alone, _it is said_, +the wretched cagots were formerly permitted to enter the church. The +figures which flitted near, pausing, occasionally, to inspect my work, +habited, as they were, in the long cloak and _capuchon_ of the country, +might well have passed for contemporaries of the superstitious fear +which excluded the unfortunate victims of disease from an equality of +rights with their fellow-men; but the cagot himself is no longer +visible. Here I loitered, till it was too dark to draw another line; +and then wended back to the _Hotel des Pyrenees_, to recruit myself +after the fatigues of the day, and prepare for those of the morrow. + +Long before the day broke, we were again in the saddle, and, as we +passed St. Sauveur, its long range of white buildings could only be +faintly traced; but, as we advanced, the snowy peak of Bergons, glowing +in the rays of the rising sun, seemed to light us on our way, and coily +the charms of the valley revealed themselves to my eager gaze. I have +wandered in many lands, and seen much mountain-scenery; but I think I +never beheld any that approaches the beauty and sublimity of the road to +Gavarnie. There is everything here to delight the eye, and fill the mind +with wonder,-- + + "All that expands the spirit, yet appals." + +For some miles the road continues to ascend; in many places, a mere +horse-track, cut in the mountain side, and fenced by a low wall from an +abyss of fearful depth, in whose dark cavity is heard the roar of the +torrent which afterwards converts the generic name of Gave into one +peculiar to itself. The sides of the mountains are thickly clothed with +box, which grows to a great height; and at this season the Autumn tint +had given to it the loveliest hues, contrasting well with the dark pines +which climb to the verge of vegetation on the far-off slopes. Suddenly, +the character of the scene is altered,--the road descends--the foliage +disappears, or shows itself only in patches in the ravines, and masses +of dark grey rock usurp its place; the noisy waters of the Gave make +themselves more distinctly heard, and a few rude cottages appear. This +is the village of Gedre: and here I witnessed one of those +mountain-effects which are often so terrible. A week before, two houses +stood by the way-side--the homes of the peasants whom we saw at work in +a neighbouring meadow. They were then, as now, employed in cutting grass +for hay, when a low, rumbling noise was heard in the valley, which soon +grew louder; and the affrighted labourers, casting their eyes upwards, +saw that an enormous rock had suddenly detached itself from the +mountain, and was now thundering down the steep. They fled with +precipitation, and succeeded in saving their lives; but when they +ventured to return to the spot, they found that an immense block had +fallen upon one of the cottages, crushing it into powder, and leaving +nothing standing but one of the gable ends. So it still remained,--and +so, no doubt, it will continue till the end of time; for the mass is too +ponderous to be moved by anything short of a convulsion of nature. + +I could have wished to have turned aside at Gedre to visit the Cascade +of Saousa, but Gavarnie beckoned onwards to greater attractions; so +again we pursued our route, and I speedily lost all thought for other +wonders in the tremendous passes which bear the name of Chaos, and of +which the best description can give but a faint and imperfect idea. The +huge masses of rock, looking like fallen buildings, which are strewn +along the valley in inextricable confusion, defy calculation. There they +lie, the consequence of some terrific _deboulement_, which must have +shaken the mountains to their centre when the mighty ruin was effected. +It is supposed that the accident may have occurred in the sixth century, +when a fearful earthquake disturbed the Pyrenees; but no written record +remains to attest it. On the first view of this scene of disorder, it +seems as if all further progress were stopped; but as we descend amongst +the enormous blocks, a path is found winding through them, which the +perseverance of the mountaineers has formed. Emerging from this terrific +glen, the pastures and fields which surround the village of Gavarnie +smile a welcome to the traveller, which is but ill-confirmed when he +reaches the gloomy inn--the last and worst in France. Here we abandoned +our horses, and after glancing at the cascade of Ossonne, I passed +hastily through the village, and, mounting on a flat rock, threw myself +down to gaze upon the stupendous Circus of Gavarnie, which, though still +a full league distant, appears, at the first glance, to be within a +quarter of an hour's walk. I was all impatience to reach the foot of +that cascade of which I had so often read, but which I scarcely ever +hoped to _see_, and, as soon as Charlet had stabled his steeds, we set +out. For the first mile the road lay between narrow meadows, which owe +their freshness to the Gave; these then gave place to a stony plain, the +dry beds of some ancient lakes; and having traversed their expanse, we +crossed the last bridge, constructed by the hands of man, over the +river, and then climbing a series of sharp, irregular ascents, which +would have passed for very respectable hills elsewhere, but here seemed +mole-heaps only, we stood, at length, on the perpetual snow, which forms +a solid crust at the foot of the circus of Gavarnie. + +It seemed as if I had at length realised one of those dreams which fill +the mind when first we read the wondrous tales of old romance: it was, +indeed, the very spot described in one of the most celebrated of the +earliest cycle; but my thoughts were less of Charlemagne and his +paladins--though the Breche de Roland was now within reach--than of the +stupendous grandeur of the scene. It required very little exercise of +fancy to imagine that we had arrived at the end of the world--so +perfectly impassable appeared the barrier which suddenly rose before us. +The frowning walls of granite which form the lowest grade of this vast +amphitheatre, rise to a height of twelve hundred feet perpendicularly, +and extend to nearly three-quarters of a league, increasing in width as +they ascend to the regions of eternal snow; where may be traced a +succession of precipices, until they are lost in the bases of the +Cylindre and the Tours de Marbore, themselves the outworks of the Mont +Perdu, from whose glaciers flow the numerous cascades which, in summer, +shoot from the lower ridge of the Circus. + +The great waterfall of Gavarnie--the loftiest in Europe--pours its +slender stream from a height of upwards of thirteen hundred feet, on the +eastern side of the Circus, and in its snow-cold water I dipped my +travelling-cup, qualifying with veritable Cognac the draught I drank to +the health of distant friends. + +My great desire was to make the ascent of the Breche de Roland; but +Charlet had learnt, in the village where he made inquiry, that the snow +had fallen heavily on the mountains only the day before, and that, +consequently, it would be a matter of extreme difficulty and danger to +make the attempt. It was now past mid-day, and the time necessary for +accomplishing the ascent with the prospect of returning by daylight, was +too limited; so, with reluctance, I gave up the idea. The season at +which I visited Gavarnie was, indeed, too late (it was the 9th of +October,) to admit of being very excursive, for long days and steady +weather are absolutely necessary to enable one to do justice to +mountain-scenery. I resolved, however, to remain within the Circus as +long as I could, and, after descending to the _Pont de Neige_, from +whose blue depths rushes the Gave de Pau, I climbed a rock at the edge +of the snow, and sat there lost in admiration of the glorious scene. As +I looked in the direction of the Breche, itself invisible from the spot +where I was, I observed an eagle soaring majestically above the cleft +where tradition points to the last exploit of the valorous nephew of +Charlemagne, whose type the imperial bird might well be deemed. It was +here, according to the _veracious_ chronicle of Archbishop Turpin, that, +after defeating the Saracen king, Marsires, in the pass of Roncesvalles, +Roland, grievously wounded, laid himself down to die, the shrill notes +of his horn having failed to bring him the succour he expected from his +uncle. It is in Roncesvalles that poets have laid the scene of his +death, where-- + + "On Fontarabian echoes borne + The dying hero's call" + +resounded; and, if truth attaches to the received story of his death, +Roncesvalles is, no doubt, the site. But the legend has shed its romance +on the immortal heights of the towers of Marbore; and, to account for +the fissure in the rock, it must be with these in our recollection, +that we read that quaint apostrophe to his sword which the chronicler +has preserved:-- + +After laying himself down beneath a rock, Roland drew his sword, +Durendal, and regarding it _"with great pity and compassion,"_ he +exclaimed, in a loud voice, "plorant et larmoyant:"-- + +"O tres beau cousteau resplendissant, qui tant as dure et qui as este si +large, si ferme et si forte, en manche de clere yvoire: duquel la croix +est faicte d'or et la supface doree decoree et embellye du pommeau faiet +de pierres de beril; escript et engrave du grand no de Dieu singulier, +Alpha et OO. Si bien tranchant en la pointe et environne de la vertu de +Dieu. Qui est celluy qui plus et oultre moy usera de ta saincte force, +mais qui sera desormais ton possesseur? Certes celluy qui te possedera +ne sera vaincu ny estonne, ne ne redoubtera toute la force des ennemys; +il n'aura jamais pour d'aucunes illusions et fantasies, car luy de Dieu +et de la grace serot en profection et sauvegarde. O que tu es eureuse +espee digne de memoire, car par toy sot Sarrazins destruictz et occis et +les gens infideles mis a mort; dont la foy des Chrestiens est exaltee et +la louenge de Dieu et gloire partout le mode universel acquise. O a +combien de fois ay je venge sang de vostre seigneur Jesu-christ par ton +puissat moyen, et mis a mort les ennemys de la nouvelle loy de grace en +ce nouveau temps acceptable de salut; cobien ay je tranche de +Sarrazins; combien de Juifs et aultres mescreant infideles batus et +destruictz, pour exaltation et gloire de la saincte foy Chrestiennie! +Par toy noble cousteau tranchant Durendal de longue duree, la chevalerie +de Dieu le Createur est accomplye et les pieds es mainz des larrons +acoustumez qui gastoyent le bien de la chose publicque, gastez et +separez de leurs corps. J'ay venge par autant de foys le sang de +Jesu-christ respendu sur terre que j'ay mis-a-mort par ton fort moyen +aucun Juif et Sarrazin. O, o espee tres eureuse de la quelle n'est la +semblable n'a este ne ne sera! Certes celluy qui t'a forgee jamais +semblable ne fist devant luy ny apres; car tous ceulx qui ont este de +toy blessez n'ont pu vivre puis apres. Si d'aventure aucu chevalier non +hardy ou paresseux te possede apres ma mort j'en seray grandement +dolent. Et si aucun Sarrazin mescreant ou infidele te touche aucunement +j'en suis en grant dueil et angoisse." + +Having made this lamentation, the valiant Roland, resolving that his +weapon should never pass into other hands, raised his arm, and, with the +last effort of expiring nature, clove the massy rock in twain, breaking +the good sword, Durendal, into a thousand shivers by the force of the +blow. + +The voice of Charlet roused me from the reverie into which I had fallen, +desiring me to look in the direction of the great cascade at a troop of +izards that were bounding up the rocks. I turned and saw the graceful +little creatures scaling, with inconceivable agility, heights which +seemed absolutely perpendicular, so slight is the hold which they +require for their tiny hoofs. It was but for a minute that I beheld +them; in the next they were lost behind a projecting rock, and I saw +them no more. + +We now turned our faces down the valley, often, however, pausing to look +back; and before we again entered the village of Gavarnie we stopped at +the little old church to inspect the sculls called "Les cranes des douze +Templiers," who are said to have been beheaded by order of Philippe +le-Bel. Whether true or false, they are the only antiquities here--the +church being comparatively modern. At the unpromising inn we found our +horses refreshed by rest; and, without more ado, we remounted and +returned by the road we came to Luz, which we reached soon after +nightfall. + +Quitting Luz the next morning, with much regret at being unable to +remain longer to explore the beauties which surround it, we took the +road to Pierrefitte, and, after a pleasant ride of about two hours, in +the course of which we passed through the most lovely scenery--the most +remarkable features of which are the depth and narrowness of the +mountain gorges, and the boldness of the bridges which span them, one in +particular bearing the characteristic name of the _Pont d'Enfer_--we +arrived at the Hotel de la Poste at Pierrefitte, where my carpet-bag was +deposited, to lighten the load of Charlet's horse, for we had many +miles that day to travel. We then pushed on towards Cauteretz, ascending +by the old road, which, though steep, saves much time to those lightly +mounted; from its point of junction with the new one, it is as fine as +any in Europe, and the variety which it offers makes the valley as +beautiful as any in the Pyrenees, while it retains its own distinctive +character, caused by the greater quantity of foliage, thus gaining in +softness what it loses in grandeur. After crossing a fine bridge, about +half-way up the valley, the road takes a spiral direction, called _Le +Limacon_, the buttresses which support it being remarkable for the +solidity and excellence of the masonry; and having made our way to the +summit, the peak of the Monne above Cauteretz became visible for the +first time since leaving the Tourmalet. + +At Cauteretz we merely stopped to breakfast, my object being to visit +the Lac de Gaube, at the foot of the Vignemale. It was Sunday morning, +and a fair was being held in the market-place, the principal articles +for sale being the many-coloured chaplets manufactured at Betharram: +there were many pretty faces in the little stalls, and many sweet voices +offered their wares for sale; but I resisted the temptation--the more +readily, perhaps, from knowing that the glass beads would have very +little chance of remaining unbroken in a scrambling mountain-ride. About +half-a-mile from Cauteretz we fell in with a party of dragoons, +bringing their horses from the mineral springs, whither they are +sent--like other invalids--for cure, from the Haras of Pau and Tarbes. +The fine animals looked in excellent condition and spirits, and seemed +to have benefited wonderfully by the visit. Passing the baths, we +ascended the bridle-road above the Gave de Marcadaou, with dark forests +of pine on either hand--a favourite resort for bear-hunters. The great +charm of this road consists in the numerous cascades which mark the +course of the Gave; they are, without question, the most beautiful in +the Pyrenees, where the mountain-falls are, for the most part, deficient +in volume. The finest of these, where all are striking, is the cascade +of the Cerizet, which bears a greater resemblance to the falls of the +Aar, in the canton of Berne, than any I remember. It is not so massive a +fall, but it gave me the impression of being more picturesque, from the +effect produced by the superb pines which hang over it, whose branches, +covered with the spray which rises from the cascade, like vapour, + + "Drop tears as fast as the Arabian trees + Their medicinal gum----." + +Charlet told me that we saw the Cerizet at the most fortunate hour; for +it is at mid-day that the "sun-bow rays," at this season, + + "----Arch + The torrent with the many hues of heaven," + +and a lovely iris was settled on it at the moment we descended to a huge +rock, on which we stood to watch "the roar of waters." + +Beyond the Cerizet are two other fine falls--the _Pas de l'Ours_ and the +_Coussin_--which we pass on the way to the Pont d'Espagne, where the +roads separate; the one in front leading into Spain by the Val de +Jarret, and the other--which turns suddenly to the left--crossing the +bridge, and conducting to the Lac de Gaube. The Pont d'Espagne is a most +picturesque object: two torrents unite a little below it, one of which +is the Marcadaou, the other the Gave that issues from the lonely lake; +the Marcadaou rushes over a broad, flat rock--foaming and boiling, as if +with rage to meet an expected enemy--while the deeper Gave throws itself +from its narrow bed, and twists and turns, apparently falling back on +itself, as if it sought to avoid the collision: they meet, however, and +after the first concussion they flow on, smoothly enough, till a sudden +turn hides them from our view, and we hear only their angry voices, +caused by some fresh interruption to their course. But to have the +finest view of the general effect, the bridge must be seen from below, +where a rock stands boldly out, intercepting the heady current. It is +constructed of fir-trees, felled on the spot, whose light stems, +standing out in relief against the clear blue sky, seem almost too +fragile to withstand the concussion caused by the "hell of waters" +beneath. Nowhere does the pine appear to so much advantage as beside the +Pont d'Espagne; some are the "wrecks of a single winter," others display +a profusion of dark foliage, and the branches of all are thickly covered +with grey parasitic moss, that hangs to them like hair, and gives to +them a most picturesque appearance, like bearded giants guarding the +romantic pass. + +The narrow pathway through the forest, which leads to the Lac de Gaube, +is excessively steep, and turns at least twenty times as it pursues its +zigzag course. For the first half-hour nothing was visible but +pine-trees, firs, and blocks of granite; and the road was difficult even +for the sure-footed beasts which we bestrode; at length, we cleared the +wood, and at once the Vignemale rose in awful splendour before us, its +glaciers glittering in the sun, ten thousand feet above the bed of the +dark blue lake, itself at a vast elevation above the level of the sea. +Next to Gavarnie, this view of the Vignemale struck me as the most +impressive object I had seen, the presence of the still lake reminding +me of similar scenes in Switzerland; none of which, however, imparted +the sense of solitude so completely as this. It might possibly arise +from the associations belonging to the Lac de Gaube, the mournful +evidence of which was before my eyes, in the little tomb raised to the +memory of the unfortunate husband and wife who were drowned here in the +year 1832. It stands on a small, rocky promontory, enclosed by a light +iron rail, and the tablet bears the following inscription in French and +English, on opposite sides. I transcribed both, and give the latter:-- + +"This tablet is dedicated to the memory of William Henry Pattisson, of +Lincoln's Inn, London, Esq., barrister at law; and of Susan Frances, his +wife, who, in the 31st and 26th years of their age, and within one month +of their marriage, to the inexpressible grief of their surviving +relations and friends, were accidentally drowned together in this lake, +on the 20th day of September, 1832. Their remains wore conveyed to +England, and interred there at Witham, in the county of Essex." + +The account given me of the manner in which the accident occurred was, +that Mr. and Mrs. Pattison visited the lake from Cauteretz in _chaises a +porteurs_, and that Mr. Pattison went first of all alone in the boat, +having vainly urged his wife to accompany him: after pulling some +distance out, he paused, and, by his voice and gestures, intimated how +charmed he was with the effect; he then returned to the shore, and +overcame Mrs. Pattison's repugnance to enter the boat. She stepped in, +and he again rowed about half a mile, when suddenly he was seen by the +men on shore to rise in the boat, and in an instant it was overset, and +both were plunged in the lake. Mr. Pattison sunk at once, but his +wife's clothes buoyed her up for a considerable time; ineffectually, +however, for none of the bearers of the _chaises a porteurs_ could swim; +her cries were in vain, and she, too, perished. How the accident arose, +none can tell, and a mystery must for ever hang over the fatal event. + +On seeing the wretched apology for a boat, which is still used by the +fisherman who keeps a little _auberge_ beside the lake, and is the same +in which the sad catastrophe occurred, no one can be surprised that an +accident should have happened; the only wonder is that it did not +founder altogether, for it is little better than the trunk of a tree +hollowed out, and turned adrift to take its chance of sinking or +floating. Into this crazy contrivance I had no desire to venture, the +lake appearing too cold for an impromptu bath. + +Reluctantly, from hence, as from every other spot which I visited in the +Pyrenees, I turned away, longing to have ascended the Vignemale, but +knowing too well how few were the days allotted to my mountain +excursion. + +We returned by the same route to Pierrefitte, and then bid adieu to the +sublimities of the _Hautes Pyrenees_; for, beautiful as the country is +at the foot of the mountains, its beauty is tame, and produces, +comparatively, little effect on the mind until time has effaced the +first impression. It was late that night before we reached Argelez, +where the _Hotel du Commerce_ received us. + +For fertility, and all the softer charms that render a landscape +pleasing, there is, perhaps, no place on earth that exceeds the valley +of Lavedan, in which Argelez is situated. It is "a blending of all +beauties," tempting the traveller to pause upon the way, and set up his +rest in a region where everything seems to speak of peace and happiness. +The inhabitants, however, can scarcely be happy, for the disease of +_cretinism_ is more widely spread here than in any other place in the +department. The valley is famous for the breed of Pyrenean dogs, which +are to be met with everywhere in the mountains, guarding the flocks and +herds. It was my fortune to acquire a very fine specimen, only a +fortnight old, which travelled with me in a basket to London, and six +months afterwards, the largest kennel could scarcely contain it. These +dogs are excessively strong, and are esteemed fierce; but their +fierceness belongs rather to the wild life they lead amidst bears and +wolves, to whom they prove formidable antagonists. + +On one of the hills which skirt the valley of Castelloubon, between +Argelez and Lourdes, I once more obtained a view of the Mont Perdu, +distant now upwards of forty miles; it was the last glimpse of the +wonders of the Hautes Pyrenees that was vouchsafed to me. + +The garrisoned fortress of Lourdes,--the picturesque bridge and convent +of Betharram, and the smiling plain which borders the Gave de Pau, were +all passed in turn, and on the evening of the fifth day from my +departure I was again in the streets of Pau. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + VALLEE D'OSSAU--LE HOURAT--THE RIO VERDE--EAUX CHAUDES EAUX + BONNES--BIELLE--IZESTE--SACCAZE, THE NATURALIST. + + "Salut Ossau, la montagnarde, + La Bearnaise, que Dieu garde! + Avec bonheur je te regarde, + Douce vallee!--et sur ma foy + Parmi tes soeurs que je desire, + De Leucate a Fontarable + Je te dis que la plus jolie + Ne peut se comparer a toi." + + Ancienne Balade. + + +ON rather a cold morning, early in October, we set out from Pau for the +Vallee d'Ossau; the road between the hills covered with vines of +Jurancon. Gan and Gelos are extremely pretty. We passed a house which +was pointed out to us as belonging to the Baron Bernadotte, nephew to +the King of Sweden, who, being a native of Pau, divides the honours of +the town with Henry IV. Formerly, in this spot stood a castle, where a +singularly Arcadian custom prevailed; every shepherd of the Vallee +d'Ossau who passed by that spot with his flock, was required to place a +small branch of leaves in a large ring fixed on the portal. If their +lords insisted on no heavier homage than this, their duty was not very +severe. + +We passed through Gan--a wretched-looking village, once of great +importance; one of the _thirteen towns_ of Bearn; originally surrounded +by walls and towers, of which nothing now remains except a few stones, +which have served to build the houses. A _tourelle_ is shown in the +place as having formed part of the house of Marca, the historian of +Bearn: there is an inscription on it, and arms, with the date of 1635. + +The further we advanced the more the scenery improved, and as we +followed the course of the beautiful, rapid, and noisy river Nes, which +went foaming over its shallow, stony bed, making snowy cascades at every +step, we were delighted with the gambols of that most beautiful of +mountain-torrents, which appears to descend a series of marble stairs of +extraordinary extent, rushing and leaping along the solitary gorge like +a wild child at play. + +The village of Sevignac opens the Vallee d'Ossau; and a host of +villages, and a wide spread of pasture-land, with high mountains +stretching far away into the distance, were before us. We breakfasted at +Louvie, and then continued our route, the road becoming wilder, and +having more character, than hitherto; we seemed now to have entered the +gorges, and to be really approaching the great mountains, which, in +strange and picturesque shapes, rose up in all directions around us. The +most striking object here, is an isolated mount, on the summit of which +stand the ruins of a feudal tower, called Castel Jaloux, built by Gaston +Phoebus, for the convenience of holding the assemblies of Ossau, there +to meet the viscounts who were independent of the kingdom of Bearn. The +village of Castets is at the base of the rock, concealed amidst thick +foliage: this situation is charming, in the midst of gigantic steeps and +rich valleys, with the Gave foaming at its foot. + +Laruns, the chief town of the canton, is a long, straggling town, almost +Swiss in the construction of its houses: it has a small antique church, +where there is a _benitier_, curiously ornamented with figures of +_syrens_: this is a favourite ornament in this part of the world, +difficult to be explained, unless it is intended to represent some +water-nymphs of the different Gaves, for it is too far from the sea to +have any allusion to an ocean spirit. The road divides here, one route +leading to the Eaux Bonnes, the other to the Eaux Chaudes; we proposed +visiting the former on our way back, our intention being, if possible, +to attempt the ascent of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau. + +We continued to mount by a fine road, having magnificent views before +and around, in order the better to enjoy which, we chose to walk for +some distance up the height, between walls of rock, of all colours and +shapes, covered with purple heath, and changing leaves, and delicate +flowers of various hues. When we reached the summit, we found ourselves +in a narrow defile, where a party of peasants were endeavouring, by main +force, to assist a huge cart, drawn by labouring and straining horses, +up the precipitous ascent--a perilous and painful work, which, however, +they accomplished very well. We heard beyond a hoarse murmur, which told +us we should soon rejoin the Gave, which here runs under the rocks, and +reappears in a bed, upwards of four hundred feet deep. The high rocks +seemed nearly to meet, and form a way exactly like the approach to a +fortified castle: this pass is called _Le Hourat_. A little chapel is +built at the other end of the opening, enclosing a figure of the +Virgin--an object of great veneration in the neighbourhood. There was +formerly here a long inscription in honour of the visit to the baths of +the Princess Catherine, sister of Henry the Fourth; but every trace of +it has disappeared, though there are many travellers whose eyes are so +good as to be able to discern it, notwithstanding the fact of its having +been carefully erased at the time of the great Revolution, when no royal +_souvenir_ was permitted to remain. + +From this point, to the village of the Eaux Chaudes, the way is the most +savage, wild, and beautiful that can be imagined: the torrent raving +along its rocky bed, and foaming cataracts tumbling into its waters from +numerous woody heights; at length we saw the little nest where the baths +lie concealed; and descended between steep rocks, which shut the valley +in so closely, that it appears almost possible to touch the two sides, +which incline as if to form a canopy over the houses. We secured rooms +for the night at the hotel--a very large one, and, in moderately warm +weather, no doubt pleasant enough; but at this period all was as chill +and dreary as if it had been in December. With much delay and difficulty +we procured horses, and lost no time in setting out for Gabas, though +the ominous appearance of the sky promised but little for our attempt; +however, for the seven miles we rode along the exquisite +valley--unequalled in its kind--nothing could exceed the delight and +admiration I felt at the grandeur of the unexpected scenery; piles of +naked rocks rose on one side of the road--which is as good as +possible--while on the other they were covered with trees of every +growth, with, as we advanced higher, a few pines appearing here and +there; the torrent met us, rushing down impetuously over large and more +encumbering blocks of stone, which, impeding its course, caused the +waters to leap and struggle and foam and dash, till clouds of spray +filled the valley, and its thundering voice echoed through the hollow +caverns on the banks: its rich _green_ colour, as clear as crystal, came +out brilliantly from its crest of foam, so that the stream looked really +a _Rio Verde_. + +Long silver lines of shining water came trickling or rushing down from +every height amongst the trees and shrubs, sometimes splashing across +our path, and joining a little clear course which was hurrying forward +to throw itself down the rock into the bosom of the mother Gave, on the +other side. We stopped our horses so often to contemplate the beautiful +_accidents_ of rock and torrent, that by the time we reached the village +of Gabas the day was closing in, and we found that it would take us two +hours to reach the summit of the great mountain, which we scarcely +remembered, in our pleasure at the beauties of the ride, had never been +visible to us for a moment; in fact, a heavy mist hung over the snowy +peaks, all of which were shrouded. Scarcely regretting the necessity for +retracing our steps, we turned back, and had another view of the wonders +of the lovely valley. The mountains now wore a more sombre hue, and the +deepened shadows gave a severer character to the ravines. An eagle +sailed majestically over our heads, much to my delight, as it was the +only incident which we seemed to want to render the scene complete in +lonely grandeur. That which is unaccustomed has a greater power over the +imagination; and to me, who had never seen Switzerland or Italy, and to +whom eagles were almost a fable, the solemn flight of one of these +monarchs of the air, so peculiar in its movements, sailing along the +peaks above the cataracts, was very impressive. It was then, by the +shaking I experienced at every step, that I was aware how very steep had +been our ascent the whole way from the Eaux Chaudes; our little sturdy +mountain-ponies had cantered on so gaily, that I imagined we were on +even ground: so far from which, we found on the return the motion so +painful, that most of us got off our horses and walked. It was nearly +dark when we arrived at the hotel, and we were not sorry to crowd round +a blazing fire, and find all prepared for our refreshment. + +The night was like winter, and the incessant roaring of the torrent +prevented anything approaching sleep; but the sun rose brightly, and the +next day was perfectly warm and genial. We took our way to Bonnes, and +found the beauty of the journey increased by the fine effects of light +and shade which the improved weather allowed; and, as we mounted the +steep hill leading to the village, nothing could exceed the splendour of +the view; the snowy top of the Pic de Ger, which the day before was not +visible, now came out from a canopy of clouds; and huge rocks and +verdant mountains, at different heights, descended in steps to the rich +and glowing valley beneath, dotted with white cottages and thick groves: +the Gave, on one side spanned by a beautiful picturesque bridge, rushes +down on the other into a profound ravine, through which its waters run a +subterranean course, till they reappear below the Hourah. + +The brilliant sun which favoured us exhibited the Eaux Bonnes in its +best light, and it seemed a delightful contrast to the chilly gorge we +had left at the Eaux Chaudes. The hotels are well furnished, and there +appears every convenience for the numerous visitors who crowd here in +the summer. We walked to a fine waterfall just behind the inn where we +stopped,--formed by the Valentin and the Sonde,--which is grand in the +extreme. There are several other fine cascades in the neighbourhood, but +this was the only one I saw. A way by a pretty, narrow, winding path to +the top of a heathy hill is charming, and here a rustic temple is +erected from whence the view is enchanting. Behind rises the majestic +Pic de Ger, rugged and hoary, crowned with snow, the first that had +shown itself in this region. The rocks and mountains are quite close, +pressing in upon the village, and its establishment of baths; but, as +the situation is on a height, it has a less confined appearance than the +valley of the rival baths, and was, on the day we visited it, like +another climate,--warm and genial: it must be extremely hot in the +summer, as, indeed, all these gorges cannot fail to be. We talked to a +lively young woman at the window of one of the now deserted +boarding-houses, who told us she was a native of the Eaux Chaudes, whose +merits she considered so superior to those of the Eaux Bonnes, that she +had never deigned to cast her eyes, she said, up towards the paltry +mountain of Ger, which the people of this gorge had the presumption to +compare to that of the Pic du Midi: "One is here buried alive," said +she, "with no walks, no mountains, no torrents; it is quite a waste of +life, and I am resolved never to go to the top of that mole-hill of Ger, +about which they make such a fuss: how disgusted you must be with it +after the other!" She had once been to Pau, which she considered another +Paris, but not so gay as the Eaux Bonnes; so that we learnt another +lesson, which convinced us that every person sees with different eyes +from his neighbours, and "proudly proclaims the spot of earth" which has +most interest for him, the best. + +We were free to differ with this fair Ossalaise; for, much as we admired +her beautiful valley, we could not but give its rival nearly as much +praise; admiring in particular the stupendous waterfall of the Valentin, +where we lingered some time, climbing about the rocks, almost stunned by +the roar of the waters, which break from the rock in three divisions; +and so rushing over the projecting buttresses till they subside in the +broad, cold, pebbly lake below. + +The Vallee d'Ossau is said to combine all the beauties of the Pyrenees; +and is certainly one of the most enchanting spots in nature: the scenery +reminded me, in some degree, of that at the Mont Dore, in Auvergne; but, +though superior in some respects, the magnificent _plateaux_ of gigantic +pines were wanting. It is necessary, in the Pyrenees, to ascend much +higher than we did to behold this growth,--a few straggling firs of +insignificant size are all that are to be seen in the lower range; but I +believe they are very fine in some parts. + +We stopped at Bielle to visit the Roman pavement, which has only lately +been discovered; it was shown to us by a woman who was surrounded by +five little children with black eyes and rosy cheeks; for this region is +the Paradise of children; they all look so healthy and handsome. The +mother, though still young, looked ten years older than she really +was,--worn and tanned, like all I had hitherto seen; her remarkably +small feet were bare, and she wore the fringed leggings peculiar to this +part, which have a singularly Indian appearance. Beauty is said to be +common in this country; but we had not met a single female who deserved +to be called so; nor did the costume strike us as otherwise than coarse +and ungraceful: in this particular forming a great contrast to the +peasantry of Switzerland, with whose mountains there is here a +parallel. The _patois_ spoken by this family sounded very musical and +pretty; and we remarked that the villagers in general seemed gentle and +civil: a little boy, who constituted himself our guide, was a strange +figure, actually covered with rags and tatters, which hung about him in +the most grotesque drapery, as if it had been studied to create +laughter: the village looked the very picture of poverty, desolation, +dirt, and ruin: the church is a piece of antiquity of great interest. It +has evidently been a pagan temple; and, ranged in an outer court, +surrounded by circular arches, are placed some stone coffins, which +excite wonder and interest; three of them have the lid of the ridged +form, called _dos d'ane_: the other is flattened, and all are uninjured. +They might seem to belong to the period when Charlemagne's knights +required so many tombs in this land. It was in re-constructing a new +vestry-room that these treasures were discovered beneath the worn stones +which had been removed: no inscriptions give a hint to whom they may +have belonged, and there they lie, side by side, mysterious relics of +the times of chivalry. + +The pillars inside the church are very celebrated for their extreme +beauty: they are of white and blue jasper, found in a quarry near +Bielle. A story is told of Henry IV., who greatly admired these pillars, +having sent to request the town to make him a present of them, as he +found nothing in his capital that could compare with their beauty; he +received this answer: "Bous quets meste de noustes coos et de noustes +bees; mei per co qui es Deus pialars diu temple, aquets que son di Diu, +dab eig quep at bejats." "You may dispose of our hearts and our goods at +your will; as for the columns, they belong to God; manage the matter +with Him." + +The Ossalais in this showed no little wit; or, if the tradition is not +founded on fact, the story still exhibits their powers of setting a due +value on their possessions in a striking light. Bielle was once a place +of great importance, and its church belonged to an abbey of +Benedictines: there was formerly a stone on the facade, on which was +engraved the arms of the Valley--a _Bear and a Bull_, separated by a +beech tree, with this device: "_Ussau e Bearn. Vive la Vacca_." The +ancient archives of Ossau are kept in a stone coffer at Bielle; and the +dignitaries of the country repair to this spot at certain periods of the +year to consult on the affairs of the communes. What habitation they +find wherein to meet, suitable to their dignity, it would be difficult +to say. + +We stopped an hour at Izeste, and strolled along the one street of this +wretched bourg while our horses rested: over almost every house we were +surprised to see sculptured stones, with half-effaced arms, showing that +once persons of condition inhabited these now degraded dwellings. One in +particular, in a singular state of preservation, represented the +cognizance of the house of Lusignan, and here we did indeed see the +effigy which we had failed to find at the castle near Poitiers, of the +serpent-tailed Fairy Melusine. We went into the house of the proprietor, +who, with his mother and several of his neighbours, hurried out, after +peeping from their windows to watch the operation of the sketching of +Melusine, and invited us to see another head of a woman which he had +found in the garden of his tenement. We passed along several dim, dark +passages, and through large, square, dungeon-like rooms, apparently +serving as stables, to the garden, where we found numerous remains of +ancient Roman wall and bricks and broken columns, and the head of a +statue much defaced. Every house seemed capable of exhibiting similar +remains, and on many were dates in stone of 1613, 1660, 1673. One tower +of defence is tolerably perfect; and walls and remnants of gates here +and there prove how strong and how important Izeste once must have been. + +We entered a court-yard, where a tailor was sitting working close by a +curious door-way, which appeared like the entrance to a church, and was +built into a wall, forming part of what was formerly a large mansion. We +were so much struck with the extraordinary sculpture round the arch, +that we inquired if there was any record of what it had been. The tailor +looked up surprised: "Well," said he, "I have lived here all my life, +and never took notice of this door-way before: we have plenty of old +stones here; but they are worth nothing, and mean nothing, that I know +of." + +The carving which so excited our curiosity was a series of medallions: +some circular, some square, very much mutilated, but still traceable. On +one compartment were the figures of a bear _rampant_, and--what might +be--a bull: they seemed in the act of combat, and possibly might +represent the arms of Bearn and Ossau, though I confess I look upon them +as of _very early_ date--perhaps the work of the Gauls or Goths, _selon +moi_; another enclosed a Sagittarius and a dog; another, an animal like +a wolf, holding a club; another, an ape: the rest are too much worn to +enable an antiquarian to decide what they were; but the whole offered a +very singular and interesting problem, which we found it impossible to +solve: the medallions are on stones which have evidently belonged to +some other building, and been thus placed over a modern portal. + +There is a cavern in the neighbourhood of Izeste, which is said to be +worth visiting; but the weather was not propitious to our seeing it. + +We stopped on the way from the Eaux Bonnes, on our return, at a place +where our driver purchased us some ortolans, and we were almost stunned +with the noise and clamour of a crowd of little urchins, with flowers +and without, who, in whining accents, insisted on sous; but there was +nothing either pretty or romantic about them or their costume; and we +were very glad when, having procured the delicate little birds we waited +for, we could resume our route. This was just at the season of _La +Chasse des Palombes_--a time of much importance in the valley, when +hundreds of a peculiar sort of pigeons are sacrificed. + +Many of the peaks which had been concealed from us the day before, came +forth from their circling mists, at intervals, on our return, and were +pointed out to us by their different names; but as we came back in the +evening to Pau, the range which was most familiar to us re-appeared in +all its splendour, much clearer than when we were nearer to them. + +At Beost, in the midst of the valley, lives a man, whose industry and +genius have made him an object of curiosity and interest in the country, +and whose fame must probably cause considerable interruption to his +studies in the season of the baths; for it has become quite the fashion +to visit him. He is called Pierrine, or Gaston Saccaze; is a shepherd +who has always lived in these mountains, and has made himself so +thoroughly acquainted with the botany of the district as to have become +a valuable correspondent of the members of the Jardin des Plantes at +Paris: he taught himself Latin, by means of an old dictionary which he +bought for a few sous, and, by dint of extraordinary perseverance, has +made himself master of the whole Flora of the Pyrenees. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + GABAS--POPULAR SONGS--PONT CRABE--THE RECLUSE OF THE VALLEE + D'OSSAU--MARGUERITE--THE SPRINGS. + + +I made another excursion to the Vallee d'Ossau in the February of 1843, +when the weather was singularly mild--infinitely more so than when I was +first there in October, and the clearness of the sky enabled me to see +all the mountains which were before concealed in clouds. With an +adventurous party, all anxious to take advantage of the propitious +moment, I undertook a long _walk_--for at this season it is difficult to +procure horses--towards Gabas, having this time the Pic du Midi bright +and clear and close in view. The carriage was able to advance along the +steep road which extends above the foaming Gave de Gabas, nearly half +way to the desired spot; for the snow had fallen in very small quantity +during the winter, and there had been no interruption to the roads. + +From a certain place, however, where two paths diverged, we found that +the height we had reached had brought us to the snows, and that it was +too slippery for the horses to proceed; accordingly we alighted and +performed the rest of the journey on foot. The walk was very exciting +and amusing, our feet sinking deep in snow at every step, while a +burning sun, _gauemas_, as the guide said, was shining over our heads, +glittering on the white peaks above, and sparkling in the deep, clear, +green torrent at the foot of the box-covered hills, over which silver +streams of water were flowing from the summits into the murmuring wave, +which churlishly received their tributary visits, and disputed the place +they took, dashing, foaming, and springing over the enormous masses of +rock in their course, till all the valley re-echoed with their ceaseless +quarrelling. + +Every now and then we stopped to look back at the sublime scenery, and +to make a hasty sketch of the peaks, which tempted us to pause. Summer +and winter seemed combined in our stroll, and it appeared as if we were +realizing the fable of "_the man, the sun, and the cloud_," not knowing +whether to yield to the heat or the cold. We met two Spaniards hurrying +along, who had crossed the mountains from Saragossa: they were fine, +strong-looking men, and sufficiently wild; but too dirty and slovenly to +excite much admiration _here_; if we had seen them on the opposite side +of the ravine they might have passed for picturesque, in the same manner +as the singing of our guide might have delighted our ears had we heard +him from a distance: as it was, he indulged our request by intoning some +of the pastorals of Despourrins, which, if the spirit of the poet of the +Pyrenees is wandering amongst the mountains, must have greatly +_perturbed_ it. + +A long, loud, unmelodious drawl, like a dirge, with many a dying fall, +was the vehicle in which the tender expressions of the poet were +conveyed to our ears; and I was reproached by my companions for having +injudiciously praised the verses of the Swan of Bearn: certainly heard +in mutilated fragments, and sung by such a musician--"_La Hauet sus las +Mountagnes_" and "_La Plus Charmante Anesquette_," were not calculated +to excite much admiration. + +A lady of our party, who was acquainted with the popular songs of +Languedoc, repeated a few verses to our guide, who took up the strain, +which was not new to him: it is singular how widely these simple songs +are spread from one part of France to the other; indeed, they are +scarcely confined to any country, and, like traditions, seem to have +wandered up and down into all regions. For instance, I was very much +surprised, a short time ago, to see in a work on Persian popular +literature, an almost literal version of a song, well-known on the +Bourbonnais, which I had met with at Moulins. + +I questioned the guide on the subject of the superstitions of the +valley, and found that he had himself _seen_ the fairies called _Les +Blanquettes_: those charming mountain-fairies who roam along the peaks +singing mournful songs. "I had often heard of them," said he, "and many +of my friends had seen them hovering about the mouths of caverns on the +highest points of the mountains. I wished, therefore, to satisfy myself, +and went to the spot where others had beheld them, and sure enough there +they were, figures in white, like women, in a circle round the entrance +of a cavern." + +"And were these fairies?" I asked. + +He paused a moment, and then said--"As for fairies, that is an old +story, which some people believe: these that I saw _were only shadows_." + +It appears to me that superstition is fast wearing out in the Pyrenees, +as well as everywhere else. + +As we continued our way, we observed, along the snowy path, tracks of +the feet of animals--a troop of wild-cats had evidently been before us, +and here and there we remarked a print, which could be nothing less than +the foot-mark of a wolf. The flight of a large bird, which I believe to +have been a vulture, added to the solemnity of the scene; but there were +less of these indications of solitude than I hoped to experience, for +all was sunshine and gaiety around. + +We observed near the Pont Crabe, _i.e._ Pont des Chevres, on the +opposite side of the ravine, a desolate-looking mill, placed in so wild +and rugged a position, that one could not but pity those whose fortune +might have condemned them to a residence there all the year round: a +story attached to the cottage made it still more sad. + +It appears that a young girl, the very flower of maidens in the Vallee +d'Ossau, had been deceived and deserted by her lover, and on the point +of becoming a mother, when she consulted the priest of her parish, +confessing to him her weakness, and entreating his aid to enable her to +propitiate offended Heaven. The virtuous and holy man, shocked at the +infirmity and want of propriety exhibited by the unfortunate girl, was +very severe in his censures, and informed her that there was no way left +for her but by penance and mortification to endeavour to wipe away her +sin. He condemned her, therefore, to take up her abode in that solitary +cottage, far away from all human habitation, to spend her life in +prayer and lamentation, and to endeavour, by voluntary affliction, to +win her way to heaven. + +She did so; and she and her child lived for ten years in that secluded +spot, where the constant sound of murmuring waters drowned her sighs, +and where no intruding foot came to disturb her solitude, except when +the good priest, from time to time, visited her, to afford the +consolation of his pious prayers. At the end of that time her spirit +departed, and her little son was received into the convent, of which he +became a member. + + THE RECLUSE OF THE VALLEE D'OSSAU. + + "Say, ye waters raging round, + Say, ye mountains, bleak and hoar, + Is there quiet to be found, + Where the world can vex no more? + May I hope that peace can be + Granted to a wretch like me! + + "Hark! the vulture's savage shriek-- + Hark! the grim wolf scares the night,-- + Thunder peals from peak to peak, + Ghastly snows shroud ev'ry height. + Hark! the torrent has a tone, + Dismal--threat'ning--cold--alone! + + "Was I form'd for scenes like this, + Flattered, trusting, vain and gay-- + In whose smile _he_ said was bliss, + Who to hear was to obey?-- + Yes! weak idol! 'tis thy doom, + This thy guerdon--this thy tomb! + + "When I from my heart have torn + All the mem'ries cherish'd long; + When my early thought at morn, + And my sigh at even-song, + Have not all the self-same theme, + Peace upon my soul may gleam! + + "When no more I paint his eyes, + When his smile no more I see, + And his tone's soft melodies + Wake not in each sound to me; + When I can efface the past, + I may look for calm--at last. + + "When resentment is at rest, + Scorn and sorrow, rage and shame, + Can be still'd within my breast-- + And I start not at his name; + When I weep, nor faint, nor feel, + Then my heart's deep wounds may heal. + + "Years, long years, it yet will take, + Spite of pain and solitude, + Ere this heart can cease to ache, + And no restless dreams intrude: + Ere I crush each fond belief, + And oblivion vanquish grief. + + "It might be--but in my child + All his father lives the while; + Such his eyes--so bright, so wild-- + Such his air, his voice, his smile-- + Still I see him o'er and o'er, + Till I dare to gaze no more! + + "Is it sin to love him yet? + Was it sin to love at all? + Is my torture, my regret, + For his loss--or for my fall? + Change, oh Heaven!--thou canst, thou wilt-- + Thoughts that sink my soul in guilt! + + "Teach me that regret is crime, + That my past despair is vain, + And my penance through all time + Shall be ne'er to hope again,-- + Only in His pardon trust-- + Pitying, merciful, and just." + +It is said that La Reine Marguerite, sister of Francis I., wrote the +greatest part of her celebrated stories during a sojourn at the Eaux +Chaudes: there, surrounded with a brilliant court of ladies and poets, +she passed several joyous months, and recruited her health, while she +amused her imagination, in wandering amongst the rocks and wild paths of +Gabas and La Broussette: in her train were "_joueurs, farceurs, +baladins_, and _garnemens de province_," and nothing but entertainment +seemed the business of the lives of those fair and gay invalids, who, so +long ago, set an example which has not failed to be well followed since. + +The pompous inscription which once appeared in a chapel at La Hourat, in +honour of the passage of the Princess Catherine, sister of Henri IV. is +now replaced by a modern exhortation to the traveller to implore the aid +of the Virgin before he tempts the perils of the pass: and our guides +very reverently took off their _berrets_, as they went by the little +niche, where stands the image, which is an object of their adoration and +hope. Poor Catherine, always disconsolate at her separation from the +object of her choice, found but little relief from the waters--they +could not minister to a mind diseased--and she had not the joyous, +careless mind of her predecessor and grandmother; nor are we told that +she attempted to compose amusing histories to distract her thought, nor +could exclaim-- + + "I write--sad task! that helps to wear away + The long, long, mournful melancholy day; + Write what the fervour of my soul inspires, + And vainly fan love's slow-consuming fires." + +All was sad and solitary to her; for the only companion she desired was +not there to give her his hand along the rugged paths, to support her +amongst the glittering snows, and smooth her way through the pleasing +difficulties of the abrupt ascents. Cold ceremony, and, at best, mere +duty, attended her whose heart sighed for tenderness and affection which +she was never destined to know. At that period, there was neither hotel +nor street, and the rudest huts sheltered that simple court; but they +might perhaps afford, after all, as much comfort as may at the present +day be found, in cold weather, in the irreclaimably smoky rooms of the +principal inn at the Eaux Chaudes. + +The accommodation is much superior--at least, _out_ of the season--at +the Eaux Bonnes, the situation of which is, as I before observed, +infinitely more cheerful; but in hot weather it must be like an oven, +closed in as the valley is with toppling mountains, which one seems +almost to touch. Rising up, and barring the way immediately at the top +of the valley in which the waters spring, is the isolated mountain +called _La butte du Tresor_, on the summit of which is erected a little +rustic temple, doubtless the favourite resort of adventurous invalids, +during their stay at the waters. I cannot imagine the sojourn agreeable +at that period to persons in health, who are led there only by +curiosity; for often, while balls and parties are going on in the +saloons below, some unfortunate victim of disease is being removed from +the sick chambers above to his last home. Nothing but insensibility to +human suffering can allow enjoyment to exist in such a spot, under such +circumstances. I rejoiced that, at the period of both my visits, we had +the scenery all to ourselves, with no drawback of melancholy to spoil +the satisfaction we experienced. + +These waters were first used, it is said, by Henri II. of Navarre, after +his return from the fatal fight of Pavia, where he was wounded by a +musketshot. They, from hence, took the name of Eaux des Arquebusades, as +they were found efficacious in cases similar to his own. + +Michel Montaigne was one of the illustrious visitors to these healing +springs, which he calls _Grammontoises_. + +Jacques de Thou came to the Eaux Bonnes in 1582; and recounts that, in +the week which he passed there, he drank twenty-five glasses of water a +day; but in this he was exceeded by a German companion, who took no less +them _fifty_. + +These springs were forgotten for more than a century after this; and +Bareges was preferred to them. The great physician, Bordeu, of whom +Bearn is justly proud, restored their reputation in a great measure: but +it is rather within the last thirty years that they have reached the +celebrity which they now enjoy. + +It is generally said that the Vallee d'Ossau combines all the beauties +and grandeurs of the Pyrenees; and that the traveller, who has only time +to visit this part, has had a specimen of all that is most admirable in +this beautiful chain of mountains. For myself, I endeavour to believe +this, not having been able to see so much of the Pyrenees as I desired. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + PEASANTS OF OSSAU--CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS THE FIRST--DEATH OF + JOYEUSE--DEATH OF THE DUKE DE MAINE--DANCES. + + +A great deal has been said and written about the peasants of the Vallee +d'Ossau; and most persons appear to have been guided rather by +enthusiasm than truth, exaggerating and embellishing facts as it suited +their views or their humour. It is the custom to admire the young girls +and children who pester travellers with shabby, faded little bouquets, +which they throw into the carriage-windows, and to see something +peculiar in the custom; but it does not strike me that there is the +slightest difference in this, or any other usage, between the Pyrenees +and all parts of France, through which I have passed. On the road from +Calais, as well as in the Vallee d'Ossau, ragged dirty groups, eager for +sous, place themselves in your way, and endeavour to obtain money: on +fete-days they may look better; but on ordinary occasions there is +certainly but little to admire, either in their dress or manners. + +A lively but sarcastic French writer has observed on the proneness of +tourists to exalt the peasants of Ossau into the Arcadian beings of +Virgil and Theocritus, representing them as assembling together to sing +the verses of Despourrins: that--"it is, perhaps, better to see romance +than not to see at all; but those who have discovered these pastoral +heroes and heroines, can assuredly never have met with them on the Ger +or the Pic du Midi: the only songs that one can hear in that +neighbourhood are drawling, monotonous lines, without either rhyme or +reason,--a sort of ballad like that of the wandering Jew. As for their +occupations, they are commonly employed in knitting coarse woollen +stockings, or in preparing, in the dirtiest manner in the world, the +poorest and most insipid cheese that ever was made. The youths and +maidens are by no means Estelles and Nemourins. I am aware that this +account will be considered profane, and the writer of these facts, a +morose, disagreeable person; but the truth is, nevertheless, better than +false enthusiasm, which causes misrepresentation; and, having always +before our eyes so much that is glorious and sublime, it cannot be +necessary to inflate the imagination for ever _a propos de rien_. + +"Let those who would form an idea of the singing of the Ossalois observe +them on a fete-day, in some of their villages, when the young people are +returning home. They separate in two bands: some holding each other by +the waist, some round the neck. The foremost party go about thirty steps +in silence, while those behind sing a couplet in chorus; the first then +stop, sing the second verse, and wait till those behind have joined +them; and the latter sing the third verse as they arrive at home. This +chant is called, in the country, _Passe-carrere_. Every now and then the +song is intermingled with sharp, wild cries, called _arenilhets_, +peculiar to the mountaineers; which prove the strength of their lungs, +if not their ear for melody. All this is performed slowly and heavily, +without any appearance of joyousness or gaiety, and seems singularly +ill-adapted to a fete." + +It must be allowed that, whenever a good voice occurs in this part of +the country, it is an exception to the general rule; but this happened +not long since, in the case of a young and very handsome girl of Ossau, +whose melodious voice and fine execution attracted the notice of an +amateur, by whom she was introduced to the theatre at Berlin, and +obtained great applause and success. She may be considered as a +nightingale who had lost her way amongst a wood of screech-owls; for her +talent was quite alone. She used to sing an old historical romance of +the valley, composed on the captivity of Francis I., which has seldom +since found a voice capable of giving it effect. + +There is something in this old ballad very like those of Spain, both in +character and rhythm; and there exist several others, on historical +subjects, which have the same kind of simple merit: + + THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I. + + "Quan lou Rey parti de France," &c. + + When the king, from France departing, + Other lands to conquer sought, + 'Twas at Pavia he was taken, + By the wily Spaniard caught. + + "Yield thee, yield thee straight, King Francis, + Death or prison is your lot;" + "Wherefore call you me King Francis? + Such a monarch know I not." + + Then the Spaniards raised his mantle, + And they saw the fleur-de-lys;-- + They have chained him, and, full joyous, + Bore him to captivity. + + In a tower, where sun nor moon-light + Came but by a window small; + There he lies, and as he gazes, + Sees a courier pass the wall. + + "Courier! who art letters bringing, + Tell me what in France is said?" + "Ah! my news is sad and heavy-- + For the king is ta'en, or dead." + + "Back with speed, oh, courier, hasten-- + Haste to Paris back with speed, + To my wife and little children; + Bid them help me at my need. + + "Bid them coin new gold and silver, + All that Paris has to bring, + And send here a heap of treasure, + To redeem the captive king."[32] + +[Footnote 32: The popularity of this ballad is accounted for by the +circumstance of the Prince of Bearn, Henry II. d'Albert, having been +made prisoner with Francis; he was, however, more fortunate than the +king, for he made his escape. The original runs thus:-- + + THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I. + + Quan lou Rey parti de France, + Counqueri d'auetes pays, + A l'entrade de Pavi + Lous Espagnols be l'an pris. + + "Rente, rente, Rey de France, + Que si non, qu'en mourt ou pris," + Quin seri lou Rey de France? + Que jamey you nou l'ey bist." + + Queou lheban l'ale deoue mantoue + Troban l'y la flou de lys. + Quoue ne prenen et quoue liguen + Dens la prison que l'an mis. + + Dehens uee tour escure, + Jamey sour ni lue s'y a bist; + Si nou per uee frinistote.... + U poustillou bet beni. + + "Poustillou que lettres portis + Que si counte ta Paris?" + "La nouvelle que you porti + Lou Rey qu'ere mort ou pris." + + "Tourne t'en poustillou en poste, + Tourne t'en enta Paris. + Arrecommandem a ma femme + Tabe mous infants petits. + + "Que hassen batte la mounede, + La qui sie dens Paris, + Que men embien uee cargue + Por rachetam aue pays." + +The chorus is usually at the end of each verse--"La lyron, la lyre," or +"doundoun, doundone."] + +The following is also a favourite ballad on the battle of Coutras and +the death of Joyeuse, the magnificent favourite of Henry III., whose +contemptuous remark on his effeminacy was the cause of his exposing +himself in the _melee_. The episode of the fate of Joyeuse is an +affecting one in the life of the valiant and generous Henry of Navarre. +The treasure was immense that was taken from the gorgeous army destined +to overthrow the harassed Huguenots, but literally cut to pieces by the +stern and bold, though ragged warriors. The gold, silver, and jewels +that were brought to Henry's tent, after the victory, were heaped on the +floor, and the dead body of the beautiful and admired Duke de Joyeuse +was brought to him. Henry turned away, sick at heart, and commanded the +corpse to be covered with a cloak, and removed carefully; and desired +that all the spoil should be divided amongst the soldiers; holding it +beneath him to accept any: nor could he restrain his tears at the sight +of so much carnage of those whom he looked upon as his subjects. + + THE DEATH OF JOYEUSE. + + Between La Roche and Coutras + Was heard our battle cry; + And still we called--"To arms! to arms!" + Our voices rent the sky. + + Our king was there with all his men, + And all his guards beside, + Within, the Duke de Joyeuse, + And to the king he cried: + + "Oh, yield, King Henry, yield to me!"-- + "What simple squire art thou, + To bid King Henry yield him, + And to thy bidding bow?" + + "I an no simple squire, + But a knight of high degree; + I am the Duke de Joyeuse, + And thou must yield to me." + + The king has placed his cannon + In lines against the wall,-- + The first fire Joyeuse trembled, + The next saw Joyeuse fall. + + Alas! his little children, + How sad will be their fate!-- + A nurse both young and pretty, + Shall on them tend and wait: + And they shall be brave warriors, + When they come to man's estate. + +The next ballad is in the same strain: + + THE DEATH OF THE DUKE DE MAINE. + + The noble Duke de Maine + Is dead or wounded sore; + Three damsels came to visit him, + And his hard hap deplore. + + "Oh! say, fair prince, where is your wound?" + "'Tis in my heart," he said, + "'Twill not be many moments + Ere you will see me dead." + + "Oh! call my page, and bid my squire;-- + They ink and paper bring;-- + For I must write a letter + To my cousin and my king." + + And when the king the letter read, + Tears from his eyelids fell; + "Oh! who shall lead my armies now. + Who shall command so well!" + + "Oh! who shall guide my valiant bands + To conquest in the fight!-- + The Duke de Vendome[33] must succeed,-- + He is a gallant knight." + +[Footnote 33: Antoine de Bourbon.] + + * * * * * + +It is seldom now that the tamborine or pipe, celebrated by Despourrins, +is heard as an accompaniment to the dances of the peasants. A violin is +the usual music; and the antique and pastoral character is at once +destroyed. + +Sometimes it is possible to see a real mountain-dance, which is +certainly picturesque, if not graceful, and belongs peculiarly to the +spot, and the objects which inspired it; as, for instance, _"The Dance +of the Wild Goat," "The Dance of the Izard," "La Gibaudrie," "La Ronde +du Grand Pic."_ + +The young men are very agile in these exercises; but, in general, the +woman's part is very inferior: they, indeed, seldom dance together, and +usually are only spectators. This seems to indicate an Eastern origin. +There is one exception to this rule in a _ronde_, executed by both +sexes, hand-in-hand; but in this the men leap and cut, while the women +move their feet slowly and heavily: in fact, they look half asleep, +while the young men seem much more occupied with their own feats of +agility than with their partners. + +As I have not seen any of these dances, nor the peasants in their +holiday costumes, I have some difficulty in imagining that there is +either beauty or grace amongst them. At the Eaux Bonnes, our female +attendant wore her red-peaked _capeline_ in the house, which had a +singular effect, but was by no means pretty: indeed, the only impression +it gives me is, that it is precisely the costume which seems to suit _a +daunce o' witches_; and cannot by possibility be softened into anything +in the least pleasing to the eye. All the peasants I saw at different +periods of the year had a remarkably slovenly, dirty, squalid +appearance; and, except in the instance of one little girl of about +thirteen, I saw none who had the slightest claim to beauty, or could +excite interest for a moment. There is a humble, civil air about the +people in the Vallee d'Ossau, which propitiates one: the _berret_ is +always taken off as a stranger passes, and a kind salutation uniformly +given. But, beyond this, there is nothing worthy of remark as respects +the common people, who appear to be a simple race, content to work hard +and live poorly. + +Our guide pointed out to us a village, from the valley, perched up on a +height in the midst of snows, where, he said, the inhabitants, who were +all shepherds, _were very learned_. "Not one of them," said he, "but can +read and write; and, as they are always in the mountains with a book in +their hands, and have nothing to interrupt their studies, they know a +great deal, and are brave _gens_." Probably Gaston Saccaze the naturalist +belongs to such a fraternity. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + COARRAZE--ORTON--THE PONT LONG--LES BELLES + CANTINIERES--MORLAAS--THE CURE--RESISTANCE TO + IMPROVEMENT--UZAIN--LESCAR--REFORMATION IN NAVARRE--TOMBS--FRANCOIS + PHOEBUS--THE MOTHER. + + "A tres legues de Pau, a cap a las mountagnes + Apres abe seguit gayhaventes[34] campagnes, + Sus u Pic oun lou Gabe en gourgouils ba mouri + Lou Castel de Coarraze aues oueils qu'es bien ouffri." + + +WITHIN a pleasant drive of Pau is the Castle of Coarraze, where the +youth of Henry IV. was passed, under the guardianship of Suzanne de +Bourbon-Busset, Barronne de Miossens. Of this castle nothing now remains +but one tower, on which may still be traced the motto, "_Lo que ha de +ser non puede faltar_," from whence is a magnificent view _into_ the +mountains. + +Of the Castle of Coarraze, it will be seen that more marvellous things +are told than that Henri Quatre passed much of his childhood there. + +[Footnote 34: Smiling.] + +Froissart has immortalized it as the scene of one of his romances of +Orthez; and this is the tale he tells of its lord: + +It seems, Count Gaston Phoebus had such early knowledge of every event, +that his household could only account for the fact by supposing that he +possessed some familiar spirit, who told him all that had happened in +the country, far and near. This was considered by no means unusual; and +when Sir John Froissart expressed his surprise on the subject, a squire +belonging to the count related to him a circumstance of a similar +nature. + +"It may be about twenty years ago," said he, "that there reigned, in +this country, a baron, who was called Raymond, and who was Lord of +Coarraze. Now, Coarraze is a town and castle, about seven leagues from +this town of Orthez. The Lord of Coarraze had, at the time of which I +speak, a suit before the Pope, at Avignon, respecting the tithes of the +church, which were claimed by a certain clerk of Catalonia, who insisted +on his right to a revenue from them of a hundred florins a-year. +Sentence was given by Pope Urban the Fifth, in a general consistory, +against the knight, and in favour of the Churchman; in consequence of +which, the latter hastened, with all speed, back to Bearn with his +letters and the Pope's bull, by virtue of which he was to enter into +possession of the tithes. + +"The Lord of Coarraze was much incensed at this; and, in great +indignation, went to the clerk, and said, 'Master Peter,' or 'Master +Martin,'--it matters not for his name--'do you suppose that I shall be +content to lose my inheritance for the sake of those letters of yours? I +do not believe you to be so bold as to lay your hands on a thing which +belongs to me; for, if you do, it is as much as your life is worth. Go +elsewhere, and get what you can; as for my inheritance, you shall have +none of it, and I tell you so once for all.' + +"The clerk stood much in awe of the knight at these words, for he knew +him to be a determined man, and dared not persevere in his demand; he +found it safe to retire to Avignon, or, at all events, out of the +count's reach; but, before he departed, he said to him, 'Sire, by force, +and not by right, you have taken and kept from me the dues of my church, +which in conscience is a great wrong. I am not so strong in this country +as you are; but I would have you know, and that soon, that I have a +champion, whom you will have cause to fear more than you do me.' The +Lord of Coarraze, who cared nothing for his menaces, replied: 'Go, in +Heaven's name, and do your worst. I value you as little dead as living; +and, for all your words, you shall not get my property.' + +"Thus they parted: the clerk either to Avignon, or into Catalonia; but +he did not forget what he had said to the knight, for soon after there +came to his castle of Coarraze, and into the very chamber where he and +his lady slept, invisible messengers, who began to riot and overturn +everything they found in the castle; so that it seemed as if they would +destroy all they came near; so loud were the strokes which they struck +against the doors of the bed-rooms, that the lady shook as she lay, and +was greatly terrified. The knight heard all; but he took no sort of +notice, for he would not seem to be moved by this event, and was bold +enough to wait for stranger adventures. + +"The noise and uproar continued for a long space in different chambers +of the castle, and then ceased. The domestics and squires represented +what had happened to their master; but he feigned to have heard nothing, +and to believe that they had been dreaming: but his lady one day assured +him that she had heard the noise but too clearly. + +"That same night, as he was sleeping in his bed, came the uproar again +as before, and shook the windows and doors in a wonderful manner. The +knight then could not but rouse himself; and, sitting up, cried out, +'Who knocks so loud at my chamber at such an hour?' + +"'It is I--it is I!' was the answer. + +"'And who sends you?' + +"'The clerk of Catalonia, whom you have wronged out of his property; and +I will never leave you in peace till you have reckoned with him for it, +and he is content.' + +"'And what is your name, who are so good a messenger?' + +"'I am called Orton.' + +"'Orton,' said the knight, 'the service of a clerk is beneath you; you +will find it more trouble than profit; leave it, and serve me--you will +be glad of the exchange.' + +"Now, Orton had _taken a fancy_ to the Lord of Coarraze; and, after a +pause, he said, + +"'Are you in earnest?' + +"'Certainly,' replied the knight; 'let us understand each other. You +must do evil to no one, and we shall be very good friends.' + +"'No, no,' said Orton, 'I have no power to do evil to you or others, +except to disturb them when they might sleep.' + +"'Well, then, we are agreed,' said the knight; 'in future, you serve me, +and quit that wretched clerk.' + +"'Be it as you will,' said Orton, 'so will I.' + +"From this time, the spirit attached himself with such affection to the +lord, that he constantly visited him at night; and when he found him +asleep he made a noise at his ear, or at the doors and windows; and the +knight used to wake and cry out, 'Orton, let me alone, I entreat!' + +"'No, I will not,' was the reply, 'till I have told you some news.' + +"Meantime, the lady used to lie frightened to death--her hair on end, +and her head covered with the bed-clothes. Her husband would say: + +"'Well, what news have you?--from what country do you come?' + +"The spirit would answer: + +"'Why, from England, or Germany, or Hungary, or other countries. I set +out yesterday, and such and such things happened.' + +"In this manner was the count informed of all that occurred in every +part of the globe for five or six years: and he could not conceal the +truth, but imparted it to the Count of Foix, when he came to visit him. +The count was greatly surprised at what he told, and expressed a wish +that he possessed such a courier. + +"'Have you never seen him?' said he. + +"'Never,' answered the knight. + +"'I would certainly do so,' said the Count de Foix; 'you tell me he +speaks Gascon as well as you or I. Pray see him, and tell me what form +he bears.' + +"'I have never sought to do so,' said the knight; 'but, since you wish +it, I will make a point of desiring him to reveal himself.' + +"The next time Orton brought his news, his master told him he desired to +behold him; and, after a little persuasion, he agreed that he should be +gratified. 'The first thing you see to-morrow morning,' said he, 'when +you rise from your bed, will be me.' + +"The morning came, and when the knight was getting up, the lady was so +afraid of seeing Orton that she pretended to be sick, and would not +rise. The knight, however, was resolved, and leapt up with the hope of +seeing him in a proper form, but nothing appeared. He ran to the +windows, and opened the shutters to let the light in, but still there +was no appearance in his room. + +"At night Orton came, and told him he had appeared in the form of two +straws, which, he might have observed, whirled about on the floor. + +"The knight was much displeased, and insisted on not being thus played +with: 'when I have seen you once,' said he, 'I desire no more.' + +"''Tis well,' replied Orton. 'Remark, then, the first object which meets +your eye when you leave your chamber, that will be me.' + +"The next day the Lord of Coarraze got up, as usual; and when he was +ready, he went out of his room into a gallery, which overlooked a court +of his castle. The first thing which attracted his notice was a large +sow, the most enormous creature he had ever beheld in his life; but she +was so thin, that she seemed nothing but skin and bone, and she looked +miserable and starved, with a long snout and emaciated limbs. + +"The lord was amazed and annoyed at seeing this animal in his +court-yard, and cried out to his people to drive it away, and set the +hounds upon it. This was accordingly done, without delay; when the sow +uttered a loud cry, turned a piteous look upon the knight, and +disappeared: nor could any one find her again. + +"The Lord of Coarraze returned to his chamber in a pensive mood; and was +now convinced, too late, that he had seen his messenger--who never +afterwards returned to him: and the very next year he died in his +castle." + +Beginning almost from the entrance to Pau, extends an immense district +of uncultivated land, called the Pont Long. This _lande_ is covered with +coarse fern and heath, and is intersected with wide marshes; thirty-two +communes have a right in this ground; but it chiefly belongs to the +Vallee d'Ossau. It was formerly much more extensive than it now is; but, +even yet, a very inconsiderable portion has been reclaimed: its extent +is about twelve leagues in length, and one and a half in width. + +In the centre of this wild country is the ancient town of Morlaas, whose +name, tradition says, was derived from the circumstance of a +prince--Gaston Centulle--having been there assassinated; from whence it +was called _Mort-la_, a derivation, probably, as likely as any other +that can be found. + +We chose a very bright, warm, and beautiful day--during the continuance +of fine weather, in November--to drive to Morlaas. Our carriage was +stopped, just as we got out of the town, by a regiment of soldiers who +were marching out, and, but for the courtesy of the colonel, we should +have been impeded for nearly a league: he, however, kindly ordered the +ranks to open, and we were allowed to go on between the two lines. This +regiment--the 25th of the line--is a remarkably fine one, and appears to +be kept in constant activity by its commanders, going out to great +distances to exercise in every weather. It is attended by a pretty troop +of young women, whose appearance reminded me of Catherine's _petite +bande_, so attractive did it seem. I do not know whether this is a +common thing, but I never saw such a troop before in company with a +regiment. They wear a costume, half feminine half military; have short +dresses of grey cloth--the colour of the men's great coats--sitting +close to their shape, very full in the skirt, and with cuffs turned up +with red facings, red trowsers, and military boots, a white plaited ruff +and habit-shirt, a white--neatly frilled and plaited--cap, surmounted +with a small, smart glazed hat, round which is the word _Cantiniere_: +across their shoulder is slung a canteen, and in this equipment they +step along with a military air, and in a dashing style which would be +invaluable on the stage. I never saw anything more singular and pretty, +and to me so new: almost every one of the women was young and very +good-looking, extremely well made, and active and strong; as, indeed, +they require to be, for they accompany the soldiers on all their +expeditions, and remain out all day. It is something as amusing to +behold as the troop of _savans and asses_, taken care of by Napoleon in +his Egyptian campaign. + +The road to Morlaas is rather monotonous, and that part which crosses +the marsh very bleak and desolate: with the gigantic mountains bounding +the horizon, it seems as if the marsh-fiend might here well establish +his abode; and the salubrity of the air of the neighbourhood I should +somewhat doubt. After a considerable distance, the road quits the +_Lande_, and mounts a hill, along and from the summit of which is a very +agreeable view, which improves at every step. From this point the Lande +below appears cultivated, and vines and fields are seen in all +directions. You descend the hill, and Morlaas is in sight: that town was +once regal, and of old renown, but is now in the very perfection of ruin +and desolation. + +It was the great market, and our driver was so delighted at the +circumstance, that it was with the utmost difficulty we could prevent +him from taking us to a plain outside the town, where the horse-fair was +going on, as he assured us that there we should see all the _monde_. As +we were quite aware of the style of gentry assembled, by the quantity of +blue frocks and berrets which we saw from a distance, and by the +neighing of steeds which reached our ears, we declined joining the +commercial party, and contented ourselves with being jostled and crowded +by the assemblage in the streets of Morlaas, whose avenues were blocked +up with market-folks, not only from every village and commune round, but +from Pau, and Orthez, and Peyrehourade, and Lescar. + +We stopped at the once magnificent church of Sainte Foix, before a +little low porch, where we had to endure much persecution from beggars, +_en attendant_ the arrival of the cure who was to show us the interior. +We were amused at one of these people, who continued his whining cry of +"Charita madama, per l'amor de Deieux!"--half French, half _patois_; till +our driver asking him to point out the cure's abode, he answered +briskly, in a lively tone; and, having given the required information, +resumed the accustomed drawl. + +The cure seemed very cross, and little propitiated by our apologies for +having disturbed him: he looked sleepy and flushed, and had evidently +been enjoying a nap, after a hearty meal and a bottle of Jurancon. He +hurried us through the ruined church, from which almost every vestige of +its early character has disappeared. On a pillar are still seen some +Gothic letters, which may be thus read: "In the year of God 1301, this +pillar and this altar were made by Teaza, whom God pardon! in honour of +God, St. Orens, and Sainte Foi." A picture of the sixteenth century +adorns the choir. It represents the Judgment of our Lord; each of the +judges is in the costume of the period; and his opinion is expressed by +a label attached to his person. + +One little chapel alone remains of all that must have adorned this +church: the sculpture of this is very beautiful, and the grimacing heads +introduced amongst the foliage sufficiently grotesque. There is a very +large antique baptismal font, and near it is a mutilated statue of the +Virgin sustaining the Saviour on her knees, which the cure insisted upon +was Nicodemus. His scriptural knowledge seemed about equal to his +historical; but he evidently had no mean opinion of his own +acquirements, which, he almost told us, were of too high a character to +be wasted on mere travellers and foreigners, who knew nothing about +Notre Dame or the saints. He would not let us see the belfry-tower, +which he assured us was unsafe, and was displeased at our stopping him +to remark on the extreme antiquity of two of the huge pillars which +support the roof, and which, though much daubed with whitewash, have not +lost all their fine _contours_. Having got rid of us, the cure hurried +back to his siesta, and we strolled round the church. Beautiful circular +arches, with zigzag mouldings, almost perfect, adorned several towers, +and showed how admirable must once have been the form of the building. +We found ourselves carried away by the crowd into the street again, and +were obliged to pause and take breath by the side of the clear rivulet, +which, as in most of the towns here, runs swiftly through the streets, +rendering them much cleaner than they would otherwise be. Here we were +accosted, from an open window, by a female who had been watching our +proceedings, from the time of our driving into the town, and who seemed +quite distressed to see three ladies alone, without a cavalier. +"However," she said, "three of you are company, to be sure, and can take +care of each other." She was very eloquent on the subject of Morlaas, +and had no idea but that we had purposely chosen the market-day for our +visit, in order to be _gay_. + +We made our way, with some difficulty--through the throng of persons +which filled the market-place, and who were busy buying and selling +coarse stuffs and merinos, coloured handkerchiefs, and woollen goods--to +the principal facade of the church, against which the ruinous old +_halle_ is built; and there we contrived to get a sight of the remains +of one of the most splendid portals I ever beheld. Of gigantic +proportions, circle within circle, each elaborately carved, with +figures, foliage, and intersecting lines, the magnificent door-way of +the church of Sainte Foi presents a treasure to antiquarians: equal in +riches to, but more delicate, and larger and loftier, than that of +Malmsbury Abbey, in Wiltshire, it has features in common with that fine +structure; but I never saw so wide a span as the arch, or more exquisite +ornaments. + +It appears that the town of Morlaas, which, ruined as it is, is said to +be _rich_ (!) is about to restore this fine entrance. A new town-hall +and market-place are being built, and, when completed, the miserable +huts which disfigure the church will be cleared away, and the facade +allowed to appear. Above this door is a fine steeple, crested with +figures, which we could scarcely distinguish, but which we found were +the _Cows of Bearn_ clustered round the summit. + +When Morlaas was the residence of the Viscounts of Bearn, it possessed a +sovereign court, and a mint of great celebrity, where copper, silver, +and even _gold_ coins were struck. Money seems to have been coined at +Morlaas in the time of the Romans; its pieces were much coveted in the +country for their purity, and were considered far superior to any other +in Gascony. There was a _livre Morlane_ as there was a _livre Tournois_, +and it long preserved its celebrity. It was worth triple _the livre +Tournois_, and was subdivided into _sols_, _ardits_, and _baquettes_, or +_vaquettes_, _i.e. little cows_. A very few of those remarkable coins +are still preserved; some exist, in private museums, of the time of the +early Centulles and Gastons, of Francois Phoebus, of Catherine +d'Albret, Henry II., Henry IV., and Queen Jeanne. The device they bear +is--_"Gratia Dei sum id quod sum."_ + +Some Moorish coins, with Arabic inscriptions, have been found in this +neighbourhood, which are also preserved in the cabinets of the curious. + +The Hotel or Palace of the Viscounts was formerly called the Hourquie, +or Forquie: from whence the money was called _moneta Furcensis_: the +town itself was occasionally called Furcas. The _patois_ name by which +it is known is Morlans. No vestige is left of this magnificent palace; +and Morlaas presents, altogether, a most wretched aspect, being +literally a heap of stones and ruin. Its situation offers no inducement +to its restoration; for, being placed in the midst of marshes, it has no +beauty of country which should make it a desirable residence. From time +immemorial, prejudice and custom have prevented any attempt being made +to cultivate these dismal swamps; or if a few energetic persons have +tried to ameliorate their condition, and have taken possession of parts +of the waste with such a view, at once the Ossalois have descended from +their mountains, with sticks and staves, and driven the invaders from +their ground. Even at the present day, as the right remains to the +people of Ossau, they have the power, which they are sure to enforce, of +preventing any incursions on the _landes_ along the valley of Pau; and, +if they please, they can pasture their sheep by the banks of the Gave, +and pen them in the lower town, beneath the castle, asking "no bold +baron's leave." There is no fear, now, of these fierce mountaineers +"sweeping like a torrent down upon the vales," as in the days when +Lescar, Morlaas, and Pau, were obliged to shut their gates in terror, +when they saw their advance. + +It is related, that, in 1337, a lord of Serres erected a castle in the +midst of the Pont Long, and in a short time nearly two hundred houses +were nestling under the protection of his turrets. All was going on +well; the ground began to be drained and cultivated, and everything +promised a happy result to the undertaking; but a storm of wrath rose in +the mountains, the haughty owners of a useless marsh, unwilling that it +should serve a good purpose to others, though of no importance to +themselves, roused their followers, and, to the number of several +hundreds, rushed from their snowy retreats, and, in one night, ravaged +and destroyed all they met with. The new settlers fled in consternation, +while the Ossalois burnt and threw down their dwellings, leaving a heap +of ruins, which may still be traced in the midst of the Pont Long. They +took refuge at some distance, where their dangerous neighbours had no +right, and built themselves a village, which is that of Serres-Castel at +the present time. + +At one period Henry II., the grandfather of Henry IV., was desirous of +forming a park for deer, and, taking possession of a track of ground, he +surrounded it with walls. The Ossalois consulted together, and +discovered that this ground was one of the dependencies on the Pont +Long. Without condescending to remonstrance they assembled in bands, and +marching down with flags flying, demolished the enclosures and took back +their possession. + +In the same year, 1543, the sovereign of Bearn was obliged to solicit of +these tyrants of the valley permission for his cousin, the Dame +d'Artiguelouve, to send her cattle to feed in the Pont Long, to which +they consented "_for a consideration_"--_i.e._ by being paid the +_baccade_, such as is demanded of the shepherds. + +The Princess Magdelaine, governess of Prince Francois Phoebus, in 1472, +obtained, _as a favour_, the permission for her physician, Thomas +Geronne, to introduce _seven mares_ to feed in the marsh. A letter of +the princess entreats, also, at another period, the same grace for the +cattle of her treasurer-general. + +For more than eight centuries the possession of this _precious_ marsh +has been the subject of litigation, and it has remained in its barren +state. + +The Vallee d'Ossau has had to defend its rights sometimes against the +viscounts of Bearn, sometimes against the monks of Cluny, and the +_Poublans_ of Pau. Law or combats have been always necessary to enable +them to retain their rights. It was on occasion of a decision in their +favour by Gaston IV., that the Ossalois made a gift to that prince of +the sum of two thousand four hundred florins, to aid him in finishing +the castle of Pau, which was then in the course of erection. + +This Pont Long, which has so long been an apple of discord to Bearn, is +at the present hour likely to have settled bounds; for, in 1837, the +members of the Cour-Royal of Pau occupied themselves on the subject, and +a chance exists of something useful being done with the ground: there is +a project for encouraging mulberry-trees and silk-worms there, and of +making a canal to carry off its waters, and render it fit for +cultivation. This is the more necessary, as fever and ague are +sufficiently common in its neighbourhood. But, even within a very few +years, when an enlightened agriculturist, M. Laclede, endeavoured to +clear the ground, and plant and improve, the fury of opposition he +experienced was disgracefully extraordinary. Under the pretext that +their pastures were invaded, the people came with fire and hatchet, and +burnt his trees, and cut away his bridges and aqueducts. + +A spot is shown in the Pont Long, called Henri Quatre's marsh; for it is +said that this prince being one day out shooting snipes, got so +entangled in the mud that it was with the greatest difficulty he was +rescued from his unpleasant predicament. + +There is an oasis in this desert, the village of Uzein, which is a +standing proof of the possibility of effecting all that industry can +desire in this condemned place: the people of this flourishing village +owe their success to the determined perseverance of their curate, who +exhorted and persuaded his parishioners to bring manure for their fields +from Serres, and, at the end of a few years, all was brilliant and +smiling, and Uzein is considered to produce the best maize in Bearn. + +There are a few towers still standing, where castles have been erected +on the Pont Long; an old grey tower of Navailles, and one of Montaner, +so strong as to have proved indestructible: it was built by Gaston +Phoebus, at the same time as that of Pau, and what remains of the walls +of its donjon are upwards of ten feet thick! + +Lescar was once an important town of Bearn, and in its fine cathedral +princes were buried, whose ashes even rest there no longer, and whose +tombs have long since been destroyed. Most of its magnificence +disappeared at the period when Queen Jeanne declared her adherence to +the new doctrine, and gave her sanction to the enemies of Catholic +superstition to pull down the _Pagan images_. Angry and fierce was the +discussion which took place between the Queen and the Cardinal +d'Armagnac, her former friend, on the occasion of the attack on the +cathedral of Lescar: the following extracts from their letters, given +by Mr. Jameson in his work on "the Reformation in Navarre," are +characteristic on both sides. + +The cardinal's courier, it seems, waited while Jeanne, without pause or +hesitation, wrote her reply to his representation. His letter ran thus: + +"Madam,--The duty of the service in which I was born, and which I have +continued faithfully to fulfil, both to the late sovereigns, your father +and mother, as well as to the late king your husband, has so complete an +influence on my conduct, that I must ever be attentive to the means of +sustaining your welfare, and the glory of your illustrious house. Moved +by the zeal which attaches me to your interests, I will never conceal +from you whatever it is desirable that you should learn, and which I may +have previously heard, trusting that you will receive in good part the +representations of your long-tried, most attached, and faithful servant, +who will never offer to make them for his own private advantage, but +solely for the sake of your conscience, and the prosperity of your +affairs. I cannot, then, Madam, conceal from you the deep affliction +which penetrates me on account of the information I have received of the +overthrow of images and altars, and the pillage of ornaments, silver, +and jewels, committed in the cathedral of Lescar, by the agents of your +authority, as well as the severity of those agents to the chapter and +people, by the interdiction of divine service. This proceeding appears +to me to be the more monstrous, since it took place in your presence, +and resulted from evil counsels which must lead to your ruin. It is in +vain for you to conceive that you can transplant the new religion into +your dominions at your pleasure. The wishes of the ministers who have +assured you of this are at variance with those of your subjects. They +will never consent to quit their religion, as they have declared by +their protest at the last meeting of the estates of Bearn. * * * And, +even supposing that they were reduced to accept your faith, consider +what you would have to fear from the two sovereigns whose territories +surround you, and who abhor nothing so much as the new opinions with +which you are so delighted. Their policy would lead them to seize your +dominions, rather than suffer them to be the prey of strangers. To +shelter you from these dangers, you have not, like England, the ocean +for a rampart. Your conduct perils the fortunes of your children, and +risks the beholding them deprived of a throne. * * * You will thus +become worse than an infidel, by neglecting to provide for those of your +own house. Such is the fruit of your Evangelism. * * * Has not God, who +worked so many miracles through them, (_i.e._ the saints,) manifestly +directed us to regard those holy personages rather than Luther, Calvin, +Farel, Videl, and so many other presumptuous men, who would desire us +to slight those reverend names, and adopt their novelties? Would they +have us hold an open council to hear them, or unite in one common +opinion against the Catholic Church? * * * Without wasting time in +further reflections, let me entreat you to place in their former +condition the churches of Lescar, of Pau, and other places, which have +been so deplorably desolated by you. This advice is preferable to that +given you by your ministers, which it imports you to abandon, &c. +&c.--Your loyal and very obedient servant, + +"THE CARDINAL D'ARMAGNAC. + +"_Vielleperite_, _Aug_. 18_th_, 1563." + + * * * * * + +To this Queen Jeanne replied in the following terms:-- + +"My Cousin,--From my earliest years I have been acquainted with the zeal +which attached you to the service of my kindred. I am not authorized by +ignorance of that zeal to refuse it the praise and esteem it merits, or +to be prevented from feeling a gratitude which I should be desirous of +continuing towards those who, like you, having partaken of the favour of +my family, have preserved good-will and fidelity towards it. I should +trust you would still entertain those feelings towards me, as you +profess to do, without allowing them to be changed or destroyed by the +influence of I know not what religion, or superstition. Thanking you, at +the same time, for the advice you give me, and which I receive according +to its varied character, the dissimilar and mingled points it touches +being divided between heaven and earth, God and man! As to the first +point, concerning the reform which I have effected at Pau, and at +Lescar, and which I desire to extend throughout my sovereignty, I have +learnt it from the Bible, which I read more willingly than the works of +your doctors. * * * As to the ruin impending over me through bad +counsel, under the colour of religion, I am not so devoid of the gifts +of God or of the aid of friends, as to be unable to make choice of +persons worthy of my confidence, and capable of acting, not under a vain +pretence, but with the true spirit of religion. * * * I clearly perceive +that you have been misinformed, both respecting the answer of my estates +and the disposition of my subjects. The two estates have professed their +obedience to religion. * * * I know who my neighbours are; the one hates +my religion as much as I do his, but that does not affect our mutual +relations: and besides, I am not so destitute of advice and friends as +to have neglected all necessary precautions for the defence of my rights +in case of attack. * * * Although you think to intimidate me, I am +protected from all apprehension; first, by my confidence in God whom I +serve, and who knows how to defend his cause. Secondly, because my +tranquillity is not affected by the designs of those whom I can easily +oppose, * * * with the grace of Him who encompasses my country as the +ocean does England. I do not perceive that I run the risk of sacrificing +either my own welfare or that of my son; on the contrary, I trust to +strengthen it in the only way a Christian should pursue; and even though +the spirit of God might not inspire me with a knowledge of this way, yet +human intellect would induce me to act as I do, from the many examples +which I recall with regret, especially that of the late king, my +husband, of whose history you well know the beginning, the course, and +the end. Where are the splendid crowns you held out to him? Did he gain +any by combating against true religion and his conscience? * * * I blush +with shame when you talk of the many atrocities which you allege to have +been committed by those of our faith; cast out the beam out of thine own +eye, and then shalt thou see clearly to cast out the moat in thy +brother's eye: purify the earth that is stained with the innocent blood +which those of your party have shed, a fact you can bear testimony to. +* * * You are ignorant of what our ministers are, who teach patience, +obedience to sovereigns, and the other virtues of which the apostles and +the martyrs have left them an example. * * * You affirm that multitudes +draw back from our belief, while I maintain that the number of its +adherents increases daily. As to ancient authorities, I hear them every +day cited by our ministers. I am not indeed sufficiently learned to have +gone through so many works, but neither, I suspect, have you, or are +better versed in them than myself, as you were always known to be more +acquainted with matters of state than those of the church. * * * I place +no reliance on doctors, not even Calvin, Beza, and others, but as they +follow Scripture. You would send them to a council. They desire it, +provided that it shall be a free one, and that the parties shall not be +judges. The motive of the surety they require is founded on the examples +of John Huss and Jerome of Prague. Nothing afflicts me more than that +you, after having received the truth, should have abandoned it for +idolatry, because you then found the advancement of your fortune and +worldly honours. * * * Read again the passages of Scripture you quote, +before you explain them so unhappily on any other occasion: it might be +pardonable in me, a female, but you, a cardinal, to be so old and so +ignorant! truly, my cousin, I feel shame for you. * * * If you have no +better reasons for combating my undertaking, do not again urge me to +follow your worldly prudence. I consider it mere folly before God; it +cannot impede my endeavours. _Your_ doubts make me tremble, _my_ +assurance makes me firm. When you desire again to persuade me that the +words of your mouth are the voice of your conscience and your +faithfulness, be more careful; and let the fruitless letter you have +sent me be the last of that kind I shall receive. * * * Receive this +from one who knows not how to style herself: not being able to call +herself a friend, and doubtful of any affinity till the time of +repentance and conversion, when she will be + +"Your cousin and friend, + +"JEANNE." + + * * * * * + +We drove to Lescar, which is within a short distance of Pau, anxious to +discover some remains of its former grandeur; but, like almost all the +towns in this part of France, the glory is indeed departed from it. The +situation is remarkably fine; it stands on a high _coteau_, by the side +of the road to Bayonne, and from the terrace of the cathedral a +magnificent view of the snowy mountains spreads along the horizon. +Nothing but dilapidated, ugly stone houses, and slovenly yards, are now +to be seen in the town; though it is said the people are by no means +poor, as, indeed, the rich gardens and vineyards around testify. + +There is not a tomb or monument of any kind left in the cathedral; but +it is entirely paved with inscribed stones, few of them earlier than +the beginning of the seventeenth century. The church itself has been so +much altered as to be scarcely the same; it is still of great extent, +and is imposing as to size: a few strange old pillars, with grotesque +capitals, remain of its earliest date; but, from these specimens, it is +plain that there could never have been much architectural grace +displayed in its construction. The organ was playing as we walked +through the aisles, and is a very fine one: we could not but regret +that, at Pau, there should not be a single church where we could have +the advantage of hearing similar music; and that the chief town of Bearn +should be denuded of every attraction common to even the most neglected +French town. No thanks, however, are due to the arms of Montgomery, that +one stone remained on another of the cathedral of Lescar; and that all +in Pau should have been destroyed in his time, is not surprising. When +one thinks on the former magnificence of this town and cathedral, and +the pomp and circumstance of all the royal funerals which took place +here; of all the gorgeous tombs and splendid ceremonies; and, looking +round, beholds only ruined towns and crumbling walls, the contrast is +striking to the mind. + +In the ninth century, this part of the country was covered with a thick +forest, called Lascurris. The Duke of Gascony, (Guillaume Sance,) about +980, having excited a knight to murder one of his enemies, was seized +with qualms of conscience, and, to relieve his mind, rebuilt the church, +which was _then_ fallen to decay, and founded a monastery in the +solitude, which he dedicated to Notre Dame. The assassin, sharing his +remorse, became a monk, and afterwards abbot there, and is known as +Lopoforti. + +The future abbots seem to have been men of valour; for they armed +themselves, when occasion called, against the followers of Mahound, who +ventured from the passes of Spain into their territories. + +The bishops of Lescar had the jurisdiction of 178 parishes, and the +diocese comprised two abbeys: it is contended that this was the most +ancient bishopric of Bearn; and the town the capital of the country in +former days. In the seventeenth century it was certainly a place of +importance, and was well defended by walls, gates, and fosses, of which +a few picturesque ruins alone remain. + +In the choir of the cathedral there are still the sculptured stalls of +oak, executed in the time of Louis XIII., which are bold and graceful, +and in excellent preservation; some mosaic pavement has lately been +discovered, which was laid down by Bishop Guy in very early times; and +it is to be expected more discoveries could be made if more zeal were +roused in the cause. The chapels are richly adorned, and in better taste +than usual, and the church is, on the whole, extremely well kept: the +vault-like chill one feels, however, on entering does not say much for +its salubrity. + +The most important tombs which once adorned this sanctuary, were those +of the young Prince of Bearn and King of Navarre, (Francois Phoebus,) +who died in 1483. Jean II. d'Albret in 1516, and his wife, Catherine de +Foix. Marguerite de Valois--the Fleur des Marguerites,--in 1548; and +Henry II., her husband--the _immortal grandfather_ of the great +Bearnois. It has been said that the body of their daughter, Jeanne +d'Albret, was brought here; but this appears to be incorrect, as her +tomb is at Vendome. + +The death of young Francois Phoebus is one of the most melancholy +episodes in the history of the country. It is thus recounted: + +He was under the guardianship of his mother, Magdelaine of France, +Countess of Foix, a woman of superior mind and qualities, who devoted +herself to his interests and those of his kingdom, and spared no pains +to foster the noble dispositions which were in her son. + +The time _was out of joint_, in consequence of civil dissensions, and +the unjust claims on Navarre of the King of Arragon; and her position +was very critical; but her wisdom and prudence had greatly calmed the +turbulence of those with whom she had to deal, and her subjects looked +forward with hope and delight to the majority of her son, who was as +amiable as he was transcendently beautiful, and whom, in imitation of +the title of their hero, Gaston, they had surnamed Phoebus. Magdelaine +was aided in her good intentions by her brother-in-law, the Cardinal de +Foix, whose sage advice greatly relieved and guided her, and when she +saw her beloved son, then aged fifteen, enter his territories in +triumph, apparently received with friendly interest by all contending +parties, her heart became joyous, and the future seemed all hope and +pleasure to her. + +Several marriages were proposed for him; but she was desirous that as +much delay as possible should take place before that important step +should be decided. Numerous powerful princes came forward, offering +their alliances. Amongst others, Don Ferdinand, of Castile, named his +second daughter, Dona Juana, who afterwards inherited all his +possessions; but the Countess of Foix rejected this, as it would have +given umbrage to Louis XI. of France, whose friendship it was necessary +to secure; and whose wily mind was working at his own interest, which +prompted him to desire that a young nun of Coimbra should be drawn from +her sacred retreat, and made the bride of the young king: this was +another Dona Juana, for whose claim to the kingdom of Castile the artful +monarch of France chose to contend. Louis, therefore, wishing to avoid +the vicinity of Spain for his young _protege_, persuaded his mother to +withdraw him from Pampeluna to his castle at Pau, where he went on with +his studies, and, by his amiable and conciliating disposition, won the +affection of all his subjects, by whom he was quite adored, as well as +by his mother, and his sister, the Princess Catherine, to whom he was +tenderly attached. + +One morning, as they were all three together engaged in their different +occupations, a flute was brought to the young prince, who, after a time, +took it up with the intention of practising some music; for in this +accomplishment he excelled. He had been playing but a short time when +his sister observed him turn pale, and the next moment the instrument +fell from his hand: he uttered a deep sigh, and dropped senseless on the +ground. They lifted him up, used instant means for his recovery, but all +was vain; their hope, their joy, their treasure, was gone: Francois +Phoebus--the young, beautiful, and good--was dying. Poison had done its +work, and treason was successful: he lived but a few minutes, and his +last words were suitable to his pure life. When he saw his distracted +mother and sister hanging over him in agony, he whispered, "Do not +lament, my reign is not of this world: I leave the things of earth, and +go to my father." + +What a scene of desolation ensued to the country and the bereaved +mother, who had so long struggled with accumulated misfortune! To add +to the difficulties of her position, her only support, Louis XI., just +then died, and, beset by ambitious ministers and selfish counsellors, +betrayed, deceived, and thwarted, the unfortunate Magdelaine sunk under +her sorrows, and soon followed her fair son to the grave. + +He was buried in great pomp at the cathedral of St. Marie of Lescar, and +his young sister, Catherine, was left to reign in his place. Of her +Providence made its peculiar care, and her fate, which threatened ill, +was happily turned aside. + +Olhagaray, the historian of Bearn, gives the affecting answer of the +Countess Magdelaine to the ambassador of Spain, who, immediately after +her son's death, came to her Court to treat for the hand of the young +Queen Catherine. It was thus she spoke, "with an infinity of sobs and +tears:" + +"Gentlemen,--You find me in poor condition to receive you according to +your merits: but you see my desolation and misery, and the ruin which is +come upon me. This last torrent of misfortune is as a deluge which +overwhelms me--a deep abyss of evil in which I am engulphed. Alas! when +I consider the just grief which environs me, I know not where I am! +Gaston, the brave Gaston, my lord and my husband, while yet I was in the +early joy of his sweet society, and was happy in his precious affection, +was torn from me. My woes were softened, and the dark night of my +widowhood enlightened by the brightness of my Phoebus. Poor, desolate +mother that I am! Heaven envied my content, and has hidden him from my +eyes. In this sad spot he expired: here, raising his eyes above, he +exclaimed, 'My reign is not of this world!' + +"Did we not, nevertheless, expect much of him! would he not, had he +lived, have healed the wounds of his country, have applied salutary +remedies to all her evils! He saw the difficulties, he prepared himself +to thread the intricate mazes belonging to his crown of Navarre; yet, +when he held it in his hands, he said, it was not that crown that he +expected. + +"What means have I now left me in the world that permit me to speak to +you of the state of Spain, of the health of the king, the queen, or the +court. I have no words but these, no reply but this: go, therefore, and +for all answer tell the king of Spain how you found me; say, that my +sadness and my tears but ill permitted me to read the letter with which +he honoured me; and thank him that he has kept so kind a remembrance of +me, praying him to continue me his friendship while I live his humble +servant." + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + THE ROMANCES OF THE CASTLE OF ORTHEZ--TOUR DE MONCADE--THE + INFANTS--THE SON OF GASTON PHOEBUS--- LEGENDS--THE OATH--THE BAD + KING OF NAVARRE--THE QUARREL--THE MURDER--DEATH OF GASTON + PHOEBUS--PARADISE THE REWARD OF HUNTERS--THE CAPTIVE--THE + STEP-MOTHER--THE YOUNG COUNTESS--THE GREAT BEAR--THE RETURN--THE + REAL CAUSE--THE MEETING IN THE FOREST--THE MASS. + + +THE most interesting place on the road to Bayonne is Orthez, once the +seat of the counts of Foix. We proposed remaining there a short time, in +order to visit its remains on our way to Bayonne, and alighted at the +hotel of _La Belle Hotesse_, which is on the site of _La Lune_, where +the historian, Froissart, stopped some centuries before us, and where he +heard so many stories and legends which he has immortalized in his +charming _romantic_ chronicle. The soldiers of Marshal Soult occupied +this inn in 1814, when the pale old lady, who is still mistress, then +deserved the title which her beauty gave to her house of entertainment. + +On approaching Orthez we were struck with the appearance, on a height +above the town, of the castle ruins, whose battered walls seem so +fragile that a breath of wind might blow them away: the upper part of +the great tower is much injured, and its irregular stones project in a +manner which threatens their fall: the blue sky shone through the arrow +slits and windows, and the whole mass gave us an idea of its hastening +to immediate dissolution. It has an imposing and venerable effect, and +excited in our minds considerable interest: we therefore hastened up the +rugged way to the hill on which it stands, and there found ourselves in +the midst of the remains of one of the strongest castles of which this +part of Bearn could boast, from the earliest time. + +It is called the castle of Moncade, having been, in 734, the abode of a +Catalonian knight of that name, who was accustomed to issue forth from +this strong-hold to combat the Moors of Spain. In after times the +fortress was possessed by a warlike lady, called La Grosse Comtesse +Garsende de Bearn, who, in 1242, offered her services to Henry III. of +England; and, after having fought in his cause with her knights and +vassals, and received a large sum of money in requital, she returned +home, and expended it on the castle, which she rendered impregnable. It +was probably a ruin in the time of Garsende; for the reparations she +made in the great tower are very evident; the lower part being more +discoloured than the upper story, in which there are windows, at a +great height, of trefoil form. The shape of the tower itself is very +unlike any I had before seen, and seemed to me extremely curious; it is +five-sided, each side presenting an acute angle, and one being flattened +at about a quarter of the height by a two-sided projection, which is not +a tower but probably a recess within from whence to send arrows; yet +there are no openings now visible; nor is there, on any side, a means of +entrance, except that a square-headed window opens very high up in the +wall towards the part where the rest of the castle joined this donjon. A +large hole in the wall, towards the open country, made, perhaps, +originally by English cannon in 1814, and enlarged since, allows ingress +to the interior. There are arches and recesses, and some ornamental +architecture to be traced within, but no doors in any direction; and my +idea of the fragility of the building was quickly dispelled when I +discovered that the solid walls were at least nine feet thick, the +angles sharp as a knife, and the apparently tottering stones as firm in +their rocky cement as if just built. + +All round, for some extent, are remains of ruined walls, with a few +circular and pointed arches here and there; the clear stream flows +beneath where once was the moat, in one part, and on the other sides +bushes and brambles fill up the defences. A huge, fearful-looking well, +of enormous depth, is in the midst of all; where, perhaps, was once the +inner court-yard, and here we saw a group of peasants drawing water; +for Orthez is so badly supplied that the townspeople have to mount this +steep height, and fill their brass-bound pails, from which they dispense +the fine clear water to the inhabitants. This must have been long a +great inconvenience and trouble; but we discovered afterwards that +another fountain has been found in the town, not far from the bridge, +where we saw numerous visitors busy in the same occupation. + +The view from the castle-height is very fine; the last of the range of +snowy mountains seen in such perfection from Pau rises in great majesty, +and closes the scene; while the luxuriant plain and hills around are +seen to a great distance. The valiant Catalonian, and the fierce +countess, must have been dangerous neighbours to their foes, commanding +as they did the country, for leagues round. + +One of the lords of Moncade was father to a chosen Viscount of Bearn, +known in the annals of the country, amongst their numerous Gastons, as +Le Bon. + +The story told respecting him is as follows: In the year 1170, Marie, +Viscountess of Bearn, a young princess of only sixteen, was induced by +interested counsellors to do homage for her domains to Alphonso the +Second, King of Arragon. This act, which took place at Jaca, required to +be confirmed by the barons of Bearn; but the latter, indignant at the +infringement of their rights, and attack on the independence of their +country, solemnly protested against the transaction, and proclaimed the +young viscountess unfit to govern, deprived her of her power, and +proceeded to the election of a new ruler. + +Their choice fell on a lord of Bigorre, who, not proving himself worthy +of his election, but endeavouring to violate the laws, was put to death +in open assembly, falling, like Caesar, by the hand of a patriot. Another +took his place, but the Bearnais, it appeared, were particularly +unfortunate in their selection, for he turned out no better than the +former, and was deposed. + +It became necessary to fix on a governor, and the great men of the +kingdom, consulting together, came to the following conclusion: The +young viscountess, after her banishment, married William de Moncade, one +of the richest lords of Catalonia, and the issue of this union was +twins, both boys. It was agreed that one of these should fill the vacant +seat of sovereignty of Bearn, and two of the _prudhommes_ were deputed +to visit their father with the proposition. On their arrival at his +castle the sages found the children asleep, and observed with attention +their infant demeanour. Both were beautiful, strong, and healthy; and it +was a difficult matter to make an election between two such attractive +and innocent creatures. They were extremely alike, and neither could be +pronounced superior to the other; the _prudhommes_ were strangely +puzzled, for they had been so often deceived that they felt it to be +most important that they should not err this time. As they hung in +admiration over the sleeping babes, one of them remarked a circumstance +that at once decided their preference, and put an end to their +vacillation; one of the little heroes held his hand tightly closed; the +tiny, mottled palm of the other was wide open as it lay upon his snowy +breast. "He will be a liberal and bold knight," said one of the +Bearnais, "and will best suit us as a head." This infant was accordingly +chosen, given up by his parents to the wise men, and carried off in +triumph to be educated amongst his future subjects. The event proved +their sagacity, and Gaston le Bon lived to give them good laws and +prosperity. + +A descendant of this chief was a Gaston, who opposed Edward I., of +England, and was thrown into prison by that terrible warrior, who +revenged his defeat in Santonge by fearful reprisals, and gave up the +town of Orthez to his soldiers, to pillage and destroy as they pleased. +Gaston was obliged to agree to a composition with the English prince; +and he was released from his dungeon in a castle in Gascony. An appeal +to the King of France was agreed on; and, when both were in presence of +the suzerain, Gaston threw down his glove of defiance against the King +of England, calling him a traitor and felon knight. Edward, starting +forward, and commanding his people, who heard the charge with rage, to +stand back, picked up the glove himself, and entreated that a single +combat might be allowed between them. The King of France, however, +opposed this; and the question of their dispute was decided by +law--rather an unusual thing in those days. + +This tower of Moncade,--rendered, it appears, by Gaston, the father of +the little open-handed hero, as like as possible to his chateau in +Catalonia,--is the scene of several tragedies; and every stone could +tell some tale of sorrow and oppression. There is something singularly +fearful in the aspect of its strong walls and donjon, without an outlet. +In this very tower died, by his father's hand, the unfortunate son of +Gaston Phoebus, whose touching story is recounted by Froissart. Although +well-known, it is impossible to pass it over here, or to forget that +equally melancholy history of the young Queen Blanche, poisoned by her +sister. + + +The Son of Gaston Phoebus. + +FROISSART, after describing the splendours of the castle of Orthez in +glowing terms, continues: "Briefly, and, considering all things, before +I came to this court I had visited those of many kings, dukes, princes, +counts, and ladies of high quality, but I never was in any which pleased +me so well, for feats of arms and gaiety, as that of the Count de Foix. +You might see, in the saloons and the chambers and in the courts, +knights and squires of honour going and coming; and you might hear them +speak of war and of love. All honour might there be found. There I was +informed of the greatest part of those feats of arms which took place in +Spain, Portugal, Arragon, Navarre, England, Scotland, and the frontiers +and limits of Languedoc, &c.; for I met there, on various missions to +the count, knights and squires of all these nations. + +"Once, on a Christmas Day, I there saw at his table four Bishops, two +_Clementins_, and two _Urbanists_ (partisans of the rival popes). There +were seated the Count de Foix, and the Viscount de Roquebertin +d'Arragon, the Viscount de Bruniquil, the Viscount de Gousserant, and an +English knight sent by the Duke of Lancaster, from Lisbon, where he then +sojourned. At another table were five abbes and two knights of Arragon; +at another, knights and squires of Gascony and Bigorre; and the +_sovereign master of the hall_ was Messire Espaign de Lyon, and four +knights _maitres d'hotel_. And the count's two natural brothers, Messire +Ernould Guillaume and Messire Pierre de Bearn, served him, together with +his two sons, Messire Yvain de l'Escale and Messire Gratien. I must tell +you that there was a crowd of minstrels, as well belonging to the count +as strangers, who filled up every interval with specimens of their art. +And this day the count gave to both minstrels and heralds the sum of +five hundred francs; and habits of cloth of gold, furred with _menu +vair_, he gave to the minstrels of the Duke of Touraine; the which +dresses were valued at two hundred francs. And the dinner lasted till +four hours after noon." + +One figure is wanting in this brilliant account--the only legitimate son +of the magnificent Count of Foix, his child by Agnes of Navarre, whose +place, as well as that of her son, is vacant at her husband's table. + +What might, even then, be the pangs of remorse that shot along the mind +of the mighty chief, as he looked round that brilliant assembly and felt +that his honours would end with himself? "No son of his succeeding." +Where was the young, blooming, accomplished, and promising heir, so +loved by his people, and once the object of his pride and hope? +Brilliant and gorgeous as was the present scene, what would have been +that which should have welcomed the affianced bride of his son to his +court? and many such would have hailed the happy events which might have +ensued. His two _natural_ sons, Yvain and Gratien, are there, full of +beauty, grace, and health; but, as the first approaches, and hands him a +cup of wine, he trembles and sets down the goblet, untasted, for an +instant. He recovers, however, and quaffs the wine to the health of his +friends: the minstrels strike their harps; and one--the chief--bursts +forth in a strain of adulation, lauding to the skies the glories and the +virtues of the most liberal and magnificent prince of his time. Gaston +listens with pride and satisfaction; and, by degrees, the low moaning +which had seemed to sound in his ears dies away, and he laughs loud, and +dispenses his gracious words around, endeavouring to forget that so +great a prince could ever know care, or feel remorse, for what it was +his will to do. But it is necessary to tell why Gaston Phoebus felt +remorse in the midst of his splendid court. + +At the conclusion of a long war between the houses of Foix and Armagnac, +it was agreed between the chiefs of the contending parties, that a +marriage should take place between Gaston, the young heir of Bearn, and +the fair Beatrix d'Armagnac. A temporary house was constructed on the +confines of the two territories, between Barcelone and Aire, where now a +wooden pillar indicates the division of the departments of Les Landes +and Gers; and there everything was settled. The Bishop of Lectoure said +mass; and an oath of the most terrible description passed between the +two princes, that they would never infringe the treaty. Part of the +_formula_ ran thus: "And, in case of failing in this promise, they would +deny God, _that he might be against them_; and, utterly to damn both +their bodies and souls, they would take the devil for their lord, and +have their sepulchres in hell, now and for evermore." + +The young bride, in consideration of twenty thousand francs of gold, +which were given her as a dower, renounced all her rights, both paternal +and maternal; and the pope, to stop the effusion of blood caused by the +quarrels of the two houses, gave all the necessary dispensations +required in consequence of parentage. Then the Bishop of Lescar +celebrated the betrothment, that same day, in the Chateau de Monclar. + +Both bride and bridegroom were very young, full of hope, and with every +prospect of happiness. _La gaie Armagnoise_, as the young princess was +called, lively and happy, and, according to all historians, a lady of +the greatest amiability; the Prince of Bearn affectionate, brave, and +handsome. With the whole assembly at Monclar, + + "All went merry as a marriage bell;" + +but they had reckoned without Charles the Bad, King of Navarre! + +Like one of those fell enchanters of romance, who appear suddenly in the +midst of rejoicings where they have not been invited, and cast a spell +upon the guests, changing joy to mourning, Charles of Navarre's +influence blighted the + + "----bud of love in summer's ripening breath," + +that + + "should prove a beauteous flower----." + +Agnes of Navarre, Countess of Foix, had become the victim of the +disputes between her husband and brother: she had been sent from +Gaston's court to that of Charles, in order to induce the latter to pay +a ransom which he owed the count, and which he treacherously and +dishonourably withheld. The unfortunate wife remained at her brother's +court, soliciting in vain that he should do justice to the severe +husband, to whom she dared not return empty-handed. Her son, attached to +his mother, and anxious to receive her blessing on his marriage, +entreated permission to visit her in Navarre. He was received there with +great demonstrations of honour and affection. Charles the Bad lamented +to him the feud between his father and himself, and expressed his regret +at the manifest dislike which Count Gaston showed to his wife, and +dwelling much on this last cause of sorrow, in which the young prince +heartily joined, he gave it as his opinion that the feeling must be +occasioned by supernatural means, and could only be combated by a +similar power. He had, he said, in his possession a medicine of such +virtue that, if it were administered properly, it would counteract any +evil influence, and restore the mind of the person to whom it was given +to a right tone. + +"Take, my beloved nephew," said he, "this bag of powder, and when an +opportunity presents itself, pour it into your father's cup, or strew it +over the meat he eats: it is a love potion--and no sooner shall he have +swallowed it, than all his former affection for your dear mother will +return. Think, then, what happy days are in store for us all! Agnes will +once more take her place amongst you; will bless you and your fair wife; +and I, who am banished from that society I most prize, shall once more +embrace my friend and witness his happiness." + +This picture was too flattering to the ardent young boy of fifteen: with +all the credulity of his time and the simplicity of his age, he caught +at such a means of restoring his family to peace and joy, and, +gratefully accepting the present of his uncle, he suspended the little +bag containing the wondrous drug round his neck by a ribbon, and +departed from the Court of Navarre full of hope and expectation. + +On his arrival in Bearn he could scarcely refrain, in spite of his +uncle's injunctions to the contrary, from communicating his secret to +his favourite brother, Jobain (Yvain), his father's natural son, who +shared his confidence as well as his couch. Jobain, however, was not +long before he observed the ribbon round his brother's neck, and pressed +him to explain the meaning of the little bag which he saw suspended +there. Young Gaston, confused at finding his secret so nearly +discovered, bade him inquire no further,--that there was a mystery +attached to it which he dared not tell; "but you will soon see," he +added, cheerfully, "a great change in my father: and he and my dear +mother will be well together." + +A few days after this, the brothers were playing at the _jeu de paume_, +and a dispute arose between them which grow more and more violent, till +Gaston forgot himself so far as to strike Jobain on the face: it was but +a childish quarrel, which the next moment might have healed, but +Jobain's passion was so excited, that in his first fury he rushed to his +father, and accused Gaston of concealing in his bosom a bag of poison, +intended to be administered to the count, in order to cause his death. + +Count Gaston, on hearing this accusation, without giving himself time +for a moment's reflection, which would have shown him the improbability +of the story, burst into so ungovernable a fury that he became almost +frantic, and it was with the utmost difficulty his knights prevented his +instantly putting his son to death. The states of Foix and Bearn, to +whose judgment he was at length induced to refer the sentence of this +involuntary parricide, were more moderate. "My lord," said they, "saving +your grace, we will not that Gaston should die: he is your heir, and you +have no other." + +It is even asserted, that those of Foix in particular would not consent +to retire until they had received a promise from the count that he would +not attempt his son's life. It was, therefore, on the servants of young +Gaston that the weight of his fury fell; and he caused no less than +fifteen to suffer the utmost extremity of torture, under which they +died. As for the unhappy prince, he had already condemned himself. +Confined in his tower of Orthez, he had taken to his bed, and there lay, +concealing himself in the clothes; and for several days refused all +nourishment, giving himself up altogether to despair. Those whose +business it was to serve him, finding this, became alarmed, and, +hastening to his father, related the fact: + +"My Lord," said they, "for the love of God, take heed to your son; for +he is starving in the prison, where he lies, and has not eaten since he +entered there, for his meat remains untouched as when we first took it +into the tower." + +Thereupon the count started up, without uttering a word, and, quitting +his chamber, hurried to the prison where his son was, says Froissart, +and, "by ill fortune, he held in his hand a _small, long knife_, with +which he was cleaning and arranging his nails. He commanded the door of +the dungeon to be opened, when he went straight to his son, and, still +holding the knife in his hand by the blade, _which did not project from +it more than half an inch_, he caught him by the throat, calling out, +'Ha! traitor!--why will you not eat?' and by some means the steel +entered into a vein. The count, on this, instantly departed, neither +saying or doing more, and returned to his chamber. His poor child, +terrified at the sight of his father, felt all his blood turn, weak as +he was with fasting, and the point of the knife having opened a vein in +his throat, _however small it might have been_,--turned him round--and +died! + +"Thus," continues the chronicler, "it was as I tell you: this was the +death of young Gaston de Foix. _His father, in truth, killed him_; but +it was the King of Navarre who directed the blow." + +The agony of remorse or affection of the inhuman count, it is but just +to say, was extreme, on finding how all had ended; "and the body of the +child was taken away with cries and tears to the _Freres Mineurs_, at +Orthez, and there buried." + +What now remained to the brilliant Gaston Phoebus? He had no legitimate +child, and he hated the next heir, Mathieu de Castelbon, "because he was +not a valiant knight at arms." His intention was to leave his large +possessions to his two natural sons; but, before he had made the proper +dispositions to secure it to them, he was surprised by death in the +hospital of Orion, two leagues from Orthez, as he was washing his hands +on his return from his favourite pursuit of hunting the bear, about +which he is eloquent in his work on the Chase; and all that Yvain, the +betrayer of young Gaston, could do, was to take possession of his +father's ring, and his _little long knife_--that fatal instrument!--and +by those tokens procured that the gates of the castle of Orthez should +be opened to him; hoping to obtain _a part of the treasures_ of the +count, who had not less than a million of crowns of gold in his coffers. + +It was in the month of August, under a hot sun, that Gaston Phoebus had +hunted the bear half the day; and on arriving at Orion, about two +leagues from Orthez, he appeared delighted at the coolness of the fresh +strewn room, where the dinner was prepared: "This verdure," said he, +"does me good, for the day has been fearfully hot!" They brought him +water to wash, but no sooner did he feel its coldness on his +fingers--which were "_fine, long and straight_"--than he was seized with +a fit, probably of apoplexy, and was dead almost immediately, to the +extreme terror of all with him. Yvain, it seems, was at first full of +grief, but listened to the advice of those who recommended him instantly +to repair to the castle of Orthez, and secure what treasure he could. +Accordingly he rode off, and by showing the count's ring and knife, was +admitted; but the coffer, bound with iron and closed with many locks, +was opened by a key, which the count always wore round his neck, in a +little bag, and that key was found by the chaplain on his master, after +Yvain's departure, who was vainly striving to force open the strong +chest. The news, in spite of precaution, soon spread in Orthez; and the +citizens, who were all greatly attached to their lord, came in crowds to +the court of the castle, demanding news of him. Yvain was obliged to +speak to them from a window, and declare the truth; appealing to them to +protect his right, and not suffer the castle or its contents to be +injured. To this they all agreed, as they deplored his being +illegitimate, and consequently incapable of succeeding his father. + +Then the air rung with lamentations. "Alas!" cried they, "all will go +ill with us now! we shall be attacked by all our neighbours: no more +peace and safety for us; nothing but misery and subjection, for we have +none to defend us now, and none to answer the challenger. Ha, Gaston! +unfortunate son! why did you offend your father? We might still have +looked to you; for beautiful and great was your beginning, and much +comfort were we promised in you. We lost you too young, and your father +has left us too soon. Alas! he had seen but sixty-three years--no great +age for a knight so powerful and so strong, and one who had all his +wishes and desires. Oh, land of Bearn! desolate, and lamenting for thy +noble heir, what is to be thy fate? Never shall be seen the peer of the +gentle and noble Count of Foix!" + +With such cries and tears was the body of Gaston Phoebus, "uncovered on +a bier," brought through Orthez to the church of the Cordeliers, and +there laid in state; with forty-eight squires to guard it, and +four-and-twenty large tapers burning by it, night and day. Then came the +burial, where knights and lords and bishops assisted; and the new Count +of Castelbon, the heir of all the possessions of the magnificent Gaston, +showed becoming honour to his remains. Castelbon then took possession; +and his first act was to provide for the two sons, who had no +inheritance, and to release the prisoners in the tower of Orthez,--"of +which," says Froissart, "there were many; for the Count of Foix, of +excellent memory, was _very cruel in this particular_, and never spared +man, how high soever, who had offended him: nor was any bold enough to +plead for the ransom of a prisoner, for fear of meeting the same fate: +_they were put in the fosse, and fed on bread and water_. This very +cousin, Castelbon, had been his captive in such a dungeon for eight +months, and was ransomed only for forty thousand francs, and he held him +in great hatred; and, had he lived two years more, he would never have +had the heritage." + +The famous work of the count, on Hunting, he dedicated to the King of +France; and in it he endeavours to prove the advantages, both to body +_and soul_, of the manly exercise of which he was a passionate lover. +His own death appears to disprove his arguments, which are curious +enough. He thus expresses himself in his Prologue:--"I, Gaston, by the +grace of God, surnamed Phoebus, Count of Foys, and Lord of Bearn, have, +all my life, been fond of three things--war, love, and hunting; in the +two first others may have excelled me, and been more fortunate; but, in +the last, I flatter myself, without boasting, that I have no superior. +* * * and, besides treating of beasts of chase and their natures, I am +convinced that my book is calculated to prove the great good that may +arise from the exercise of hunting. A man, by its means, avoids the +seven mortal sins; for he has no time to think of the commission of any +while he is engaged with his horses and hounds: he is more lively, more +ready, more expert, more enterprising, makes himself acquainted with +countries, and is quick and active: all good habits and manners follow, +and the salvation of his soul as well; for, by avoiding sin, a Christian +shall be saved; and this he does; therefore, a hunter must be saved. His +life is full of gaiety, pleasure, and amusement, and he has only to +guard against two things: one, that he forgets not the knowledge and +service of God, _and does not neglect his duty to his liege lord_. + +"Now, I will prove this fact. It is well known that idleness is the root +of evil; when a man is lazy, negligent, unemployed, he remains in his +bed, and in his chamber, and a thousand evil imaginations take +possession of him: now a hunter rises at daybreak, and sees the sweet +and fresh morning, the clear and serene weather; he hears the song of +birds warbling softly and lovingly, each in its language: when the sun +is up, he beholds the bright dew glittering with its rays on streams and +meadows, and joy is in the heart of the hunter. Then comes the excited +delight of the pursuit, the cries, the sound of horns, the cry of dogs, +the triumph of success--what time has he to think of evil things! He +comes back weary, but satisfied; his early meal was but slight, for he +set out so soon; it is late before he seeks a second, and that is seldom +otherwise than frugal; he washes, he dresses, and he sups upon his game, +and shares it with his friends: then he enjoys the soft air of evening: +after his exertions, he lies him down in fine sheets of fresh and fair +linen, and sleeps well and healthily, without thinking of evil things. +Thus, by frugal living, great exercise, and cheerful occupation, he +avoids great maladies, has good health, _and lives long_. And never knew +I man, who was attached to hawks and hounds, but was of good disposition +and habits; for the love of hunting springs from nobleness and +gentleness of heart, whether one be a great lord or a poor man, high or +low." + +The brother of poor young Gaston, who, perhaps, had a deeper motive than +momentary passion when he made the accusation to his father which +destroyed him, guilty or innocent, afterwards met a dreadful doom. In +that fatal masquerade of savages, when Charles VI. was so nearly burnt +to death, Yvain de Foix was one of those, whose dress catching fire, +and being sewn on close to his skin, could not be taken off, and he died +in extreme torture, after lingering two days. If he had, indeed, +intended to effect his brother's death, what must have been his feelings +under all the frightful sufferings he endured! + +Alas! the glories of the magnificent Gaston Phoebus were fearfully +extinguished in blood and flame! Alas! the splendours of the proud +castle of Orthez were dimmed with cruelty and suffering! No wonder that +spectres are still said to walk and wail around the ruined tower; no +wonder that the moans of the feeble prince, fainting beneath the blow of +his mail-clad chief, are heard at night echoing through the loop-holes +of the battered walls; or that the plaintive cries of another victim +startle the shepherd returning late from the hills. + +This other victim has also a melancholy story to relate of the injustice +and cruelty of near relatives, and the dangers of exalted birth and +great possessions. Charles and Blanche of Navarre, brother and sister, +were both "done to death" by those nearest to them; and while the pale +shade of Queen Blanche still flits along the ruined battlements of +Moncade, the spectre of Prince Charles haunts the streets of Barcelona, +where he was poisoned; crying out for ever on his murderess, +"Vengeance--Vengeance on Dona Juana!" + + +Story of Queen Blanche. + +The mother of these two died, leaving the youthful Prince of Vienne heir +to her kingdom of Navarre, having just married her eldest daughter, +Blanche, to Henry, King of Castile, and her younger daughter, Leonore, +to the Count of Foix. She was herself the wife of John, King of Arragon; +who, after her death, desired to be himself the sovereign of Navarre, in +lieu of his son, Charles, whom he instantly confined in a dungeon in +Lerida. The prince was, however, beloved by the people, and the Catalans +rose in a body to deliver him: they effected their purpose, and bore off +the rescued prisoner in triumph, but not before a cruel step-mother, +Dona Juana, who had replaced the first wife of King John, had +administered to him a potion, whose effects soon showed themselves, for +he died in the hands of his deliverers. + +The young Queen Blanche, of Castile, was now the heiress of Navarre; but +she succeeded her brother only in his misfortunes and his fate. Married +at twelve years old, her husband, when she was sixteen, had already +repudiated her, believing himself bewitched, and in danger in her +society. Impressed with this imagination, the King of Navarre, in an +interview with his wife's brother-in-law, the Count de Foix, agreed that +Blanche should be given up to him, and forced to embrace a life of +celibacy, in order that her sister, Leonore, Countess of Foix, should +enjoy her possessions. + +When news was brought to Queen Blanche that she must follow the +messengers sent to Olite, to carry her to Orthez, her despair knew no +bounds: she felt that her doom was sealed, and her fearful destiny was +but too clear to her mind. She even, in her agony, wrote a letter of +entreaty to her unnatural husband, to entreat his protection; but he +remained deaf and indifferent to her supplications, and the doomed lady +was taken away, a prisoner, to the tower of Moncade. + +Hero, for two years, languished the ill-fated heiress; her captivity +embittered by the sad reflection that her sister was her jailor, and her +father and husband her betrayers. A ray of hope suddenly gleamed upon +her fortunes; but whether, in her secret dungeon, any pitying friend +contrived to let her know that she had yet a chance of escape and +triumph, does not appear. Louis XI. came into Bearn. It was not any +feeling of compassion for a political victim that influenced him to take +part with the captive; for he was just the person to approve of an act, +however cruel, which would secure power to a sovereign; but his own +interests appeared affected by this arrangement of things; and, in a +conference at Pampluna, in which the powerful family of Beaumont offered +their services to assist the project, it was agreed that the captive +Queen should be demanded at the hands of the Count de Foix, and +reinstated in her rights. + +Leonora and her husband saw that the time was come when nothing but a +further crime could secure them from danger. Blanche, once dead, nothing +stood between her sister and the throne of Navarre; and what was her +life in comparison with the great advantages they should derive? A +deputation from the states of Bearn arrived; the Beaumonts and King +Louis sent imperious messages, which were received with the utmost +humility by the Count and Countess of Foix: they had no wish to oppose +the general desire; there was but one obstacle to the accomplishment of +the end in view. They represented that their beloved sister, whose +health had long required extreme care, and who had been the object of +their solicitude ever since Prince Charles's death, was on a bed of +sickness--every hour she grew worse--and, at length, it was their +melancholy duty to announce her death. + + "Treason had done its worst," + +and Blanche had breathed her last in the Tour de Moncade. + +A magnificent funeral was prepared--much lamentation and mourning +ensued--and the body of the royal victim was pompously interred with her +ancestors, the Princes of Bearn, in the cathedral of Lescar.[35] + +[Footnote 35: Some historians say that Blanche was confined at the +castle of Lescar, but there is no foundation for the assertion: no +castle but that of Pau or Orthez would have been sufficiently strong to +retain a prisoner of so much importance. Moret, and other Spanish +authors, relate the event as above.] + +Five years after this tragedy, the vengeance of Heaven--still called for +by the shades of the brother and sister--overtook Dona Juana, their +cruel step-mother. She died in the agonies of a lingering disease, and +in her torments betrayed, by her ravings, her crimes to all. Her +constant exclamation was, "Hijo! que me caro cuestas!" _Oh, my son! you +have cost me dear!_ alluding to her own son, for whose sake she had +sacrificed the former children of her husband. She died, deserted by +all; for that husband, equally guilty, on hearing that her words had +betrayed her, thought it policy to feign indignation at her wickedness, +and refused to visit her in her dying moments. The memory of the +unnatural father is still preserved in a Spanish proverb, which alludes +only to his sole good quality--liberality--in which he was extreme: in +application to courtiers--who look for presents which are long +coming--it is usual to say, "Ya se murio rey Don Juan." + +There is no end to the stories which may be told of the castle of +Orthez, and those in its neighbourhood; the knights and squires of +Gaston de Foix's court, when not engaged in jousts and tournaments, or +in fighting in earnest, seemed never weary of telling histories which +their guest, Froissart, listened to with eager attention; amongst them, +the following is characteristic of his ready belief, and the credulity +of the time: + + +The Great Bear of Bearn. + +Messire Pierre de Bearn, natural brother of Gaston Phoebus, was the +victim of a strange malady, which rendered him an object both of fear +and pity: there was a mystery attached to his sufferings which no one of +the learned or inquisitive attendants who surrounded him could explain; +and when Froissart inquired why it was that he was not married, being so +handsome and so valiant a knight, his question was met with "the shrug, +the hum, the ha," that denoted some secret. At length, as he was not +easily to be satisfied when anything romantic was on the _tapis_, he +found a person to explain to him how things stood with respect to the +brother of the count. + +"He is, in fact, married," said the squire who undertook to resolve his +doubts; "but neither his wife nor children live with him, and the cause +is as follows." He then went on to relate his story: + +The young Countess Florence, of Biscay, was left an heiress by her +father, who had died suddenly in a somewhat singular manner; his cousin, +Don Pedro the Cruel, of Castile, being the only person who could tell +the reason of his having been put to death. His daughter, who feared +that the friendship of such a relation might be as dangerous to herself, +being warned to avoid him, as she had fallen under his displeasure in +consequence of having hinted that she knew how his wife, the sister of +the Duke of Bourbon, and the Queen of France, met her end, thought it +better to escape as quickly as she could from Biscay, leaving her +estates in his power; and she came to the Basque country a fugitive, +with a small retinue, glad to have saved her life, though all besides +was his prey. This distressed damsel, knowing that all honour was shown +to ladies at the court of Gaston de Foix, lost no time in directing her +steps to the Castle of Orthez, where, throwing herself at the feet of +the gallant count, she related her wrongs, and implored his assistance. + +Gaston entreated her to be comforted, and assured her that he was ready +to do all in his power to assist her: he consigned her to the care of +the Lady of Coarraze, his relation, a high baroness of the country. With +all his generosity, Gaston Phoebus never seems to have lost sight of his +own interest, and it struck him immediately that the heiress was exactly +the match he desired for his brother, Pierre de Bearn. Accordingly, he +so arranged matters that the young Countess of Biscay and her domains +should remain in his family; he married her to Pierre, and re-conquered +her lands from the cruel King of Castile. + +A son and a daughter were the fruits of this union, which appeared a +happy one; but the fates or the fairies did not allow it to remain so. +In Bearn, as in other parts of the world, although hunting is a very +agreeable amusement, it sometimes brings with it unpleasant +consequences, though Count Gaston may say nay. The woods, forests, and +mountains, it is well known, belong exclusively to beings who are +tenacious of their reign being disturbed, and who generally contrive to +revenge themselves on the hardy hunter who ventures to invade their +secret retreats. Nevertheless, at all periods, men are found incautious +enough to tempt them, and seldom does it happen that they do not suffer +for their temerity. + +Pierre de Bearn, like his brother, Gaston, was remarkably fond of the +chase. The Countess Florence, on the contrary, held the pastime in the +utmost abhorrence, and to please her he abstained from the sport he +loved during the early period of their union; but at length he became +weary of this self-denial, and, in an evil hour, he set forth on an +expedition into the forests of Biscay to hunt the bear. He had not been +fortunate at first in his search, and had climbed some of the highest +parts of the mountain in hopes to meet with game worthy of him, when he +suddenly came upon the track of a tremendous animal, such as he had +never before beheld in his experience. + +He followed it for some time over plains of ice, his gallant hounds in +full chase; at length, the mighty beast--apparently, indignant at their +perseverance, just as they had arrived at a gorge of the rocks, beneath +which a precipice descended on either side--turned round on his +pursuers, and presented a front sufficient to daunt the courage of the +boldest. The dogs, however, rushed on him, but, with one blow of his +enormous paw, he stretched them dead at his feet; four of the finest met +the same fate, and several, disabled and wounded, shrunk howling back to +their master, who stood firm, his spear poised, waiting the proper +moment of attack. Pierre saw that no time was to be lost, for he was +alone, having, in his eagerness, outstripped his companions; his dogs +were of no further use, and he must trust now to his own strength and +skill. + +The spear went flying through the air, and struck the monster in the +breast; furious with pain, he uttered a hideous howl, and rushed +forward, catching, in his long claws, the left arm of the knight, whose +right hand was armed with his hunting-knife, which he had hastily drawn +from his belt; with this, in spite of the pain he felt, he continued to +strike the monster, whose roaring echoed through the caverns of the rock +like thunder at every stroke. + +At this instant, and just as the knight's strength was nearly exhausted, +he beheld, with joy, his friends advancing to his aid; two of them +sprang forward and discharged their spears; but still, though +desperately wounded, the bear would not release the arm he continued to +gripe, and, as he turned upon them, dragged his first foe with him. As, +however, his head was directed towards the new comers, Pierre, with a +strong effort, made another plunge in his neck, which instantly had the +effect of making him release his hold; he then drew his dagger--for his +knife remained in the animal's body--and, with the assistance of his +friends, the bear was despatched. As the body lay on the ground, a pause +of astonishment ensued after the shouts of the victors; for never was so +gigantic a beast beheld in the Pyrenees, and it seemed a miracle that +Pierre had escaped: his arm was fearfully injured, and he was faint with +exertion; but his triumph was so great that he hardly permitted his +wound to be bound up. They placed the carcase of the bear on their +shoulders, and with great difficulty carried it from the spot where it +fell; it was then consigned to their attendants, and the whole train +returned in great delight to the castle. As they entered the court, they +were met by the Countess Florence and her ladies, who had been uneasy at +the long absence of her lord. No sooner had she cast her eyes on the +huge beast they were carrying, than she turned deadly pale, uttered a +loud shriek, and fainted on the ground. + +The lady was borne to her chamber, and for two days and two nights she +uttered not a word; but was in great pain and tribulation, sighing and +moaning piteously: at the end of that time she said to her husband, "My +lord, I shall never be better till I have been on a pilgrimage to St. +James; give me leave to go, and to take with me Pierre, my son, and +Adriana, my daughter. I beg it as a boon." Messire Pierre, distressed to +see her situation, granted her request too readily. + +The countess then ordered a great train to be prepared, and set forth on +her journey, taking with her treasure and jewels of great value, which +was not much remarked at the time; but she knew well that she did not +intend to return. Her journey and her pilgrimage accomplished, she +announced her intention to pay a visit to her cousins, the King and +Queen of Castile; and to their Court she went, and was received with +joy. And there the Countess Florence is still, and will not return, nor +send back her children. The very night on which he had killed the great +bear, Messire Pierre was seized with the malady which has ever since +taken possession of him. "He rises," said the squire, "in the night, +arms himself, draws his sword, and, with loud and furious cries and +gestures, like a man possessed, flies at every one near him, and makes +such a terrific noise and confusion that it would seem fiends were in +his chamber. His squires and valets awake him, and he is quite +unconscious of what has happened, and will not believe those who relate +to him what he has done in his sleep. Now, it is said," continued the +squire, "that the lady knew well what would happen the moment she saw +the great bear; for her father had hunted that very animal, and when he +came up to it, he heard a voice which said, 'Why do you persecute me +thus? I never did you any ill: you shall die of an untimely death.' And +so, indeed, did he, being beheaded by King Pedro the Cruel, without +cause. This was the reason she fainted and was in such tribulation; and +for this cause she never loved her husband after, for she always feared +he would do her a bodily injury; and that harm would happen to her or +hers, while she stayed with him." + +The squire and the historian's comments on this strange story are more +amusing than wise. "We know well," said Froissart, "by ancient writings, +that gods and goddesses were in the habit of changing into birds and +beasts men and women who offended them. It might well, therefore, happen +that this great bear was in his time a knight accustomed to hunt in the +forests of Biscay; he probably did something to anger some deity of the +woods, and consequently lost his human shape, and got changed into a +bear, to do penance for his offence." + +Whether Froissart really believed what he was saying, or whether the +opinion was merely advanced to afford him an opportunity to display his +classical learning, is not clear; but he forthwith inflicts upon his +hearer the story of the "_Joli Chevalier Acteon_;" at which the other is +marvellously pleased. + +They continue to speculate upon the reasons of the Countess Florence for +quitting her husband, and conclude that she knew more than she chose to +tell. It has been thought that the lady, when very young, was one day in +the forest, having strayed from the castle, within whose garden walls +she was weary of being kept. She was delighted when she found herself at +liberty, and kept wandering on, up one alley and down another, wherever +she saw flowers, and the sun streamed through the leaves; till, at last, +the evening began to close, and she turned her steps to return; but +there was such a labyrinth of trees, and every path was so like another, +that she knew not which to choose, and became alarmed lest she should +not reach home before night, and her absence would be discovered. She +hurried forward in great uncertainty, and her fears increased every +moment; for she seemed to be getting further and further in the depths +of the forest; suddenly she came upon a great rock in which was a +cavern, and at its mouth she paused a moment to look round her, when a +sound issued from it which almost paralysed her with terror, and +presently forth rushed a huge black bear, who seized her in his paws. +She shrieked loudly, for she expected her hour was come, when, to her +amazement, she heard a voice from the monster, and these words: "You +have intruded on my privacy; I did not seek you; remain and be my +companion, or at once I put you to death." She was so amazed that she +had scarcely power to answer; but summoning her courage, she replied, "I +am a great lady, and the daughter of the lord of Biscay: release me, and +it shall be the better for you; kill me, and my father will take a +signal revenge." "You shall not quit this forest," replied the monster, +"till you promise what I demand. I will then transport you to your +father's castle, when you shall make him swear never to hunt in my +domains again. If he should do so, he shall die a violent death; and all +with whom you shall in future be in connexion shall be under the same +promise, or I will cause them to die badly. If any, after this vow, hunt +me, and it should happen that I am killed, misfortune shall come on you +and your race for my sake." + +The lady promised, as indeed she had no choice but to do; and the great +bear then ordered her to follow him; she did so, and in a few moments +she saw the castle in view. "Now," said he, "give me another promise. If +I should be killed by any one belonging to you, swear that you will go +to the shrine of St. James, of Compostella, and pray for my soul, for I +am not a bear, as I appear, but a knight, transformed for my sins." As +he spoke, and while Florence made the vow he required, she saw his skin +changing by degrees, and his form taking another appearance, till he +stood before her, in the misty light, a fair young knight, the +handsomest her eyes had ever beheld; he looked mournfully upon her, and +disappeared, and she found herself suddenly in her own turret, in her +chamber, on her bed, and no one had perceived her absence. She related +this adventure to her father, who, much amazed thereat, refused to +credit her tale; nor would he give up his accustomed pastime of hunting +for all her entreaties, by which stubborn conduct his fate came upon him +as has been related. + +The lady, the more she thought of the beauty of the transformed knight, +loved him the more; but she had no hope ever again to see him, and her +misfortunes having obliged her to quit her country, and take refuge in +Bearn, all happened as has been told. She was not more fortunate with +her husband than her father, in preventing his hunting in the forests +of Biscay; and when she saw the great bear had been killed, she lamented +her lover, as well as the ill fate which he had predicted for her +lineage. Certain it is, that she never afterwards returned to Messire +Pierre, and that she gave great treasure to the church of St. James, of +Compostella, that perpetual mass might be said for _a soul in +purgatory_. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + THE COUNTESS OF COMMINGES--THE CHARGE--THE PERSECUTED HEIRESS--THE + BRIDGE--THE CORDELIER--COSTUME--ASPREMONT--PEYREHORADE. + + +ALTHOUGH Count Gaston Phoebus was a tyrant, who spared none in his +anger, yet he had all the virtues which were admired by the bold spirits +of the men of his time; amongst the chief of which was hospitality. Like +a true knight of old, he afforded protection to distressed ladies and +damsels, and his Court was a refuge sought, and not in vain, by all who +had been injured by those stronger than themselves, or who required +assistance in any way. Amongst other ladies who came to throw themselves +at the feet of this redoubted righter of wrongs was the Countess Alienor +de Comminges, wife of the Count of Boulogne, and the right heiress of +the county of Comminges, then in the hands of the Lord of Armagnac, who +unjustly detained it. This spirited lady one day made her appearance at +the Castle of Orthez, with her little girl of three years old in her +hand, and demanded protection of Gaston Phoebus. She was received with +great honour and respect, and Gaston listened with great benignity to +her complaint. + +"My lord," said she, "I am on my way to Arragon, to my uncle the Count +d'Urgel, and my aunt-in-law, with whom I am resolved to remain; for I +have taken a great displeasure against my husband, Messire Jean de +Boulogne; for it is his business to recover for me my heritage, kept +from me by the Count of Armagnac, who holds my sister in prison; but he +will bestir himself in nothing, for he is a craven knight, fond of his +ease, and has no care but to eat and drink, and spends his goods upon +idle and sensual enjoyment. And he boasts that when he becomes count he +will sell his inheritance in order to satisfy his foolish and childish +wishes; for this cause I am disgusted, and will live with him no longer; +therefore I have brought my little daughter to deliver her into your +charge, and to make you her guardian and defender, to keep and educate +her according to her station. I know well, that, for the sake of love +and relationship, in this my great strait you will not fail me, and I +have no safe person with whom to confide my daughter, Jeanne, but you. I +have had great difficulty to get her out of the hands of my husband, +which I was resolved to do, because I know the danger in which she +stands from him, and from those of the house of Armagnac, being, as she +is, the heiress of Comminges. I, therefore, beseech you to befriend me, +and take charge of her; and when my husband finds she is in your +guardianship, he will be himself rejoiced; for he has often said that +this child would be a source of great uneasiness to him in the future. + +"The Count of Foix heard the lady, his cousin, speak these words with +great satisfaction, and instantly imagined within himself, for he is a +lord of great fancy," says Froissart, "of how much service the charge of +this child might be to him, for she might be the cause of making peace +with his enemies, and by marrying her in some high place, he could keep +them in check; he, therefore, replied, 'Madam and cousin, willingly will +I do what you ask, both from affection and parentage, by which I am +bound to assist you. Leave your daughter with me, and rely on it she +shall be cared for and treated as if she were my own child.' 'I thank +you greatly,' said the lady. + +"The young daughter of the Count of Boulogne was therefore left at +Orthez with the Count of Foix, and never departed from thence. And her +lady mother took her way to Arragon. She came several times afterwards +to see her child, but did not request to have her again: for the count, +Gaston Phoebus, acquitted himself of his charge as if she had been his +own; indeed, it is said that he has a notion of marrying her to the Duke +de Berri, who is a widower, and has a great desire to marry again." + +Jeanne did in fact become the wife of the Duke de Berri, when she was +under thirteen, and he more than sixty; but, after all the care which +had been taken of her, and the "coil" that was made for her, she died +early, leaving no children. Her mother being dead, the inheritance of +Comminges devolved on her aunt, Marguerite, the same who was kept +prisoner by the Count of Armagnac. The fate of heiresses in those days +was sad enough, and that of this countess particularly so. The Count of +Armagnac married her to get her property; after his death she was forced +into an alliance with another of the same family, from whom, however, +she contrived to get a divorce, and then accepted the hand of a Count de +Foix, probably from fear. This latter soon began to ill-treat her, +having failed by entreaties to induce her to make over her possessions +to him; finding her resolved, he leagued himself with one of her old +enemies, Jean d'Armagnac, and they agreed together to share the spoil of +her heritage. She was dragged about, from prison to prison, first in one +strong castle and then in another, for fear of its being known where she +existed; and for many years she languished in this misery. At this time +Charles VII. was at the height of his successes, and some friend had +contrived to inform her of the changed aspect of affairs in France. In +order to induce him to undertake her cause, she, by means of the same +friend, let him know that she had named him heir of all her property and +estates--knowing, probably, too well, how little weight any +consideration but personal interest would have. + +The tyrants soon discovered what she had done, and her treatment became +still worse. The arrogance and presumption of the Count d'Armagnac, who +ventured to put after his name, "By the grace of God," and assumed the +airs of a sovereign, added to which, _the unjust manner in which he +acted_, at length irritated the king to such a degree that he summoned +both lords to appear before him at Toulouse, and commanded that they +should bring with them the Countess of Comminges. + +Nothing was now to be done but to obey the strongest; and the two +tyrants and their victim came to Charles, as he desired; he then took +the lady under his protection, and the Estates pronounced _her will +valid_; her husband being permitted to enjoy a certain portion during +his life. After this the countess remained with the king, and it is to +be hoped enjoyed a short period of repose. She died at Poitiers, upwards +of eighty years old, and no sooner was she dead than the turbulent and +ambitious Armagnacs took possession, in spite of the king, of all her +estates, about which, for long years, continual wars and contentions +ensued. + + * * * * * + +Of all the castles in Bearn, perhaps that of Gaston Phoebus at Orthez is +the most suggestive of recollections; but I fear I have been led into so +many long stories beneath its ruined walls that the actual fortress +itself is almost forgotten. We stood upon the irregular mound which its +accumulated ruins present, remarking the fine effect of the distant line +of snowy mountains, whose outlines varied from those familiar to us at +Pau, and enjoyed the sunset from that exalted position, which might have +often been admired in the same spot centuries before, by the lords, +knights, historians, minstrels, and distressed or contented damsels, who +filled the courts of the mightiest chieftain of Bearn. + +We descended from the castle, through a long, dilapidated street, which +seemed to know no end, and began to despair of ever reaching the bridge, +when we were accosted by a good-natured looking woman, who offered to be +our guide. After a long walk, through high, narrow, but not ill-paved, +streets, at last we came upon the roaring, foaming Gave: one of the most +impatient rivers that ever was confined by a bridge, or pent up by +crowding houses. On each side rise wild, grey, rugged rocks, some +covered with clinging plants, some naked and barren, over and between +which the passionate torrent comes dashing and foaming, as if anxious to +escape, as fast as possible, from the town which has intruded streets +and mills on its original solitude, since the early period when some +chivalric baron, or, perhaps, the Grosse Comtesse herself, threw over it +the strange old bridge, and placed in its centre the towered arch which +no efforts, early or late, have been able to dislodge. To be sure, this +is scarcely surprising, if, as tradition says, it was no mortal +architect who built this bridge; but a set of workmen whose erections +are not easily destroyed, and who, after all, might have laid the first +foundations of the fortress on the height, as well as this huge tower, +which seems of a-piece with one of the rocks its neighbours. The fact +is, the fairies, who inhabited in former days the caverns of the Gave, +and used to come out by moon-light in little boats on its waters, got +tired of its continual roaring and foaming, and bethought them of a way +to cross to the other side, without being either shaken or tossed by its +turbulent waves, or wetting their tiny feet by stepping from stone to +stone. They resolved, therefore, to throw a bridge over the stream, and, +taking a huge hollowed rock for the purpose, by their united efforts +they cast it across; and, as the water-spirits were offended on the +occasion, and rose up against them, endeavouring to destroy their +labours, they found it requisite to build them a tower in the centre, +which they defended against all comers. This was effected in a single +night; and the shepherds, who beheld in the morning what had been done, +would never have been able to account for it, but that, watching when +the moon was at the full, they perceived the fairies passing in crowds +along the bridge, and directing their way towards the opposite hill, +where the castle stands. They have often been seen dancing round the +ruined well there; and, it is thought, can plunge into the spring, and +reappear far up in the Gave at their pleasure. The shepherds, also, +observed that the castle was under their dominion; for they often +remark, as they approach Orthez, on returning from the market at +Peyrehorade, that the great tower, which is clearly visible on the +height at one moment, sinks gradually into the earth, the nearer they +come, and, at last, disappears altogether, nor is observed again, till +they have mounted the hill, to see if it really "stands where it did;" +where they behold it as firm and as frowning as ever, laughing to scorn +time and the elements, and refusing to offer any clue to its mystery. + +The bridge of Orthez has been the scene of terrible contentions, at +different periods. In the tower in its centre is a projecting window, +from whence, tradition says, Montgomery, the Protestant leader, by the +orders of Queen Jeanne de Navarre,--to whom, in this country, all sorts +of horrors are attributed,--caused the priests to be cast into the Gave, +who refused to become Calvinists. The window is called _La frineste deues +caperas_ (_the priests' window_). In those times of outrage and +violence, this might, or might not, be true; but certain it is that +three thousand Catholics, men, women, and children, perished in the +siege which Montgomery laid to Orthez, and that the sparkling, foaming +torrent which we looked at with such pleasure, then rolled along a +current of blood. + +It is said that, during the assault of the town, a Cordelier was +celebrating mass in his convent, and had the courage to finish the +ceremony in spite of the tumult around; he then concealed the sacred +chalice in his bosom, and cast himself from his convent-window into the +Gave. The waters bore him on to the Adour; and his body, tossed and torn +by the rocks, was finally deposited on the bank, beneath the walls of a +convent of the same order, at Bayonne, where the shuddering monks +received and bore his mutilated remains to their chapel, with weeping +and lamenting for the misfortunes of their brethren. + +The "Chateau Noble" of Gaston Phoebus had then to endure a terrible +siege: the Viscount de Terride had sustained himself there as long as +possible; but, wanting provisions, was at length obliged to yield, and +was, with all his garrison, carried prisoner to Pau. There those +officers who, being Bearnais, had been taken in rebellion against their +Queen, were served with a banquet called _le repas libre_, at the +conclusion of which they were all put to the sword. + +The costume of the female peasants in this neighbourhood is almost +invariably a short scarlet petticoat, and brown or black tucked-up gown, +with a bright-coloured handkerchief on the head, tied in the usual +_gentil_ style, with all four ends displayed, so as to show their rich +hues,--one being allowed to fall longer than the rest; in dirty weather, +the legs and feet are bare, and the sabots carried. Many very large +straw hats are worn, lined with smart colours, and tied with ribbon; but +it must be confessed that most of these are very old, and have long +since lost their early brilliancy. + +There is nothing remarkable in the costume of the men,--the customary +_berret_ being the covering of their heads, and either a blue blouse, or +a dark dress, with red sash, and sometimes a red waist-coat, +diversifying their appearance. We were not struck with the beauty of any +of the peasants we met. Being market-day, the road was crowded for +several leagues, and we thought we had a good opportunity of judging: +however, a French fellow-traveller told us our idea was erroneous, as +the young girls were seldom allowed to come to the market, which was +generally attended by matrons only. However this might be, we certainly +saw nothing beyond very ordinary faces, and the common defect of +mountainous countries--the frightful _goitre_--too evident. It is the +custom with most persons, when they first arrive in a place, to adopt +some received opinion, which not the strongest evidence of their senses +is allowed afterwards to shake; and thus it appears heresy, either to +disbelieve in the salubrity of Pau, or in the beauty of the inhabitants +of all the country round. If beauty were merely comparative, the notion +may be true; but, though those who are not affected with _goitre_, and +who are not hollow-cheeked, and thin, and brown, are prettier than those +who are, + +"Yet beautie is beautie in every degree;" + +and "pretty Bessies" appeared to me to be very rare in Bearn. + +There is a very imposing building situated on the Gave, of which the +townspeople are extremely proud: it is a corn-mill, of great power, +lately erected, and extremely successful. It appears that the town of +Orthez is in a flourishing condition, as to trade. Here are prepared +most of the hams so celebrated throughout France, under the name of +Bayonne-hams; and here numerous flocks of the fat geese which furnish +the markets of the neighbouring towns with _cuisses d'oies_, so prized +by gourmands, are to be seen. But the most picturesque _flocks_ we +observed on this road, were those of the round, pretty sheep, with thick +snowy fleeces, just returned from the mountains, where, delicate as they +look, they have been accustomed, all the summer, and till late in the +autumn, to climb to the highest point of the Pic du Midi itself. They +were now being conducted to the valleys and plains for the winter, and +the meadows were whitened with them in all directions. + +This part of the country was, formerly, thickly-wooded, and occasionally +a few oak woods are passed on the road; but the continuous forest which +once spread abroad in this direction has disappeared. On approaching the +long, desolate-looking bourg of Peyrehorade,--which, however, on +market-days, is bustling and crowded enough--a ruin, on a height not +unlike that of Orthez, looks proudly over the plain, where two Gaves +unite. It is the Chateau d'Aspremont, once redoubted, and of great +force, and belonging to that good and noble governor of Bayonne, who +sent back to Charles IX. the answer so often quoted, when commanded to +execute all the Protestants in his town of Bayonne--that he had examined +the persons under his command, and had found them brave and true +soldiers, but no executioners. + +The singular-sounding name of _Peyre-Hourade_ has the meaning of +_Pierced Stone_, and comes from a Druidical monument in the +neighbourhood. These remains are rare in the Pyrenees, though so +frequently met with in other parts of France. In a meadow, not far +removed from the high-road, is a block of granite, nearly flat, of great +height, standing upright on the narrowest end: there is no quarry of +similar stone in this part of the country; and its isolation and quality +render it a subject of surprise--as much so as the unexplained wonders +on Salisbury Plain. The fairies, no doubt, if any fortunate individual +could make friends with them now, could set the matter at rest; + +"But now can no man see none elves mo!" + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + BAYONNE--PUBLIC WALKS--BIARITZ--ATALAYA--GIANT FERNAGUS--ANNE OF + NEUBOURG--THE DANCING MAYOR. + + +FROM Orthez we continued our way to Bayonne, where it was our intention +to remain a few days. The entrance to Bayonne, that famous city, whose +motto is "Nunquam Polluta"--"_Always pure_," from the separate town of +St. Esprit, which is in the department of the Landes, as well as half of +the bridge which connects it with its more important sister, is +extremely striking. This bridge is over the fine bold river Adour, which +joins the Nive here, and, together, they divide the town between them. +Although Bayonne has few public monuments of much consequence, yet the +cathedral, the towers of the two castles, and other buildings, rise from +the rivers in great majesty; and, as we crossed the immensely long +wooden bridge at a slow pace, gave us a good impression, which a closer +view did not disappoint. It has a singular aspect, unlike that of any +other town, and the air all round it is pure and healthy; and we felt +happy for the time to have exchanged the icy chill of the snowy +mountains for the freshness of the sea breeze. + +There are few old towns in France, which can be called fine in +themselves: their advantages lie in situation, and in the modern +additions which have succeeded to the ramparts and close-walled +enclosures of the ancient time, when to crowd streets together and fence +them in was the principal aim; but Bayonne, although still fortified +strongly, is less confined than most cities: a thorough air blows +through the tolerably well-paved streets; open spaces occur every now +and then, narrow and close places have been cleared, and the two fine +rivers and their quays prevent its being so crowded as it might +otherwise be. The houses are very high, which makes the streets appear +narrower than they really are; but they are not very long, and intersect +each other in a manner to prevent their being disagreeable. + +There are arcades in the old part, as at La Rochelle and Agen, some of +which are very dark and narrow, and occasionally strange alleys appear, +as sombre and dismal as any in Rouen itself; but this is not the general +character of the town. One long, handsomely-paved street, is bordered +with fine houses and planted with trees, in the style of Bordeaux, and +here are situated most of the hotels; the grand squares of the Theatre +and Douane open from this, and the magnificent allees marines extend +from this spot. + +Everywhere in Bayonne, it is easy to escape from the bustle of the city, +and find yourself in a beautiful, shaded walk--an advantage seldom +possessed by a commercial town. + +Although many are delightful, and there is only the embarrassment of +choice, the most beautiful and agreeable, it must be allowed, are the +allees marines, which are walks nicely kept, planted with several rows +of fine trees, reaching along the banks of the Adour for an immense +distance, with meadows on the other hand, and a range of cultivated +hills on the opposite shore. The fine broad, sparkling, agitated river, +is dotted with vessels of different sizes, some of them moored to the +bank; a fresh breeze from the sea comes sweeping along, bringing health +on its wings; the citadel crowns the height of St. Esprit; the cathedral +rises above the other town; before is the meeting of the bright waters, +trees, groves, and meadows everywhere; murmuring streams, spanned by +wooden bridges, hurry along to throw themselves into the bosom of the +Adour at intervals, and the whole scene is life and brilliancy. + +This walk is a kind of shaded jettee, and has, unlike most French +promenades, nothing formal or monotonous about it: the trees are allowed +to throw their branches out at pleasure, without being clipped into +form; they are irregularly planted, so that the favourite straight lines +are avoided, and the fine sandy soil does not allow the paths to remain +dump half an hour at a time; consequently, it is always a safe lounge, +and, assuredly, one of the most charming possessed by any town I ever +saw. It is as agreeable, although not resembling it in its features, as +the mail which charmed us so much at La Rochelle. + +The days were very uncertain, and violent showers overtook us every half +hour, while we remained at Bayonne; yet we contrived to escape damp in +these pretty alleys, which, one minute swimming with water, were, in an +incredibly short space, dry and pleasant again. + +The first anxiety on arriving at Bayonne, is always, of course, to get +to the sea; even the cathedral, our usual first visit, we neglected, in +order to take advantage of a gleam of sun, and hasten to Biaritz, which +lies about a league from the town: there is now a fine road to St. Jean +de Luz, by which you reach this celebrated bathing-place; and the +often-described cacolets, which even now travellers venture to tell of, +are dwindled into a tradition. In the season, one or two of these +primitive conveyances may still, it is said, be seen, as the English are +amused at endeavouring to ride in them; but, except one has a preference +for broken limbs to safety, there is no reason why any one should +choose such a carriage. They are, in fact, _now_, two panniers, in which +two persons sit on each side of a horse, with the legs hanging down: +formerly, it was merely a board slung across the animal's back, on which +the traveller sat see-saw with his guide; and numerous are the accounts +of perils encountered on a bad road in these conveyances twenty years +ago. Omnibuses, cabriolets, and coaches of all kinds are now to be had, +and there is neither pleasure nor glory in going uncomfortably in the +obsolete _cacolet_. + +Biaritz has greatly changed its aspect, since Inglis described it as a +desolate fishing village: it has grown into a fashionable +watering-place, full of fine hotels and handsome houses, with +accommodations of all sorts; the sands are, in the bathing-season, +covered with pavilions for the bathers, and all the terrors and dangers +of the Chambre d'Amour and the Grottos of Biaritz, are over: that is to +say, as far as regards persons being carried away by the tide, or +surprised by the waves amongst the rocks; for, unless any one was silly +enough to place himself in danger, no risk need be run, as it does not +_now_ come to seek you. The rocks, however, are still terrible to +mariners in a tempest; when, in spite of the warning _pharos_, which +crowns the height, the vessel is driven into these little bays, +bristling with rocks of all sizes and forms, each capable of causing +immediate destruction. No winter passes without dreadful disasters on +this beautifully dangerous coast, which looks not half so fatal as it +really is. + +I had so often heard Biaritz described as magnificent, that I had +imagined a bold coast of gigantic cliffs and huge blocks of pyramidal +stone, piled at distances along the shore, like those at the back of the +Isle of Wight, or on the Breton coast. I was, therefore, surprised to +find only a pretty series of bays, much lower, but not unlike the land +at Hastings, with the addition of small circles of sand, strewn with +large masses of rock, over and through which the restless waves drive +and foam, and form cascades, and rush into hollows, roaring and beating +against the caverned roofs and sides with the noise of cannon, increased +in violence according to the state of the elements. + +In rough weather the sea is so loud here that the reverberation is +distinctly heard at Bayonne, as if artillery was being fired, and its +hoarse murmur is generally audible there at all times. A fine +light-house has been erected on a height; but this precaution does not +altogether prevent accidents, and scarcely a winter passes without sad +events occurring on this dangerous coast. A few days only before we +visited Biaritz, an English vessel had been lost, with all hands on +board, except a poor man, who had seen his wife perish, and his two +little children washed on one of the rocks: there they lay like +star-fish, and were taken off by the pitying inhabitants. I could not +learn the exact particulars, but I believe only one survived, which was +immediately received into the house of an English family who reside at +Biaritz, and who benevolently took the little stranded stranger under +their protection. + +There was always, it seems, a look-out house on the hill above the +rocks; and formerly it was requisite to watch lest the vessels of those +numerous pirates who infested these seas should come down upon the +coast. The mount where it stood is called by its old name, _Atalaya_. +Whether it has anything to do with the former inhabitant of a ruined +tower which still looks over the ocean, as it did in ages past, does not +appear; but it may have been connected with the giant Ferragus, or +Fernagus, of whose castle this piece of ruin alone remains. + +The giant Ferragus was one of those tremendous pagan personages, to +conquer whom was the chief aim and end of the Paladins of the time of +Charlemagne; and history has recorded the combat of Roland, the great +hero of these parts, with this redoubted Paynim. + +Biaritz was amongst the places in the Pays Basque, named by the cruel +inquisitor, Pierre de Lancre, as "_given up to the worship of the +devil_;" he tells us that the devils and malignant spirits, banished +_from Japan and the Indies_, took refuge in the mountains of Labourd: +"and, indeed," continues this miserable bigot, in whose hands was placed +the destiny of hundreds of innocent creatures, "many English, Scotch, +and other travellers coming to buy wines in the city of Bordeaux, have +assured us that in their journeys they have seen great troops of demons, +_in the form of frightful men_, passing into France." Above all, he +asserts that the young girls of Biaritz, always celebrated for their +beauty, have "in their _left eye a mark impressed by the devil_." + +Bayonne has several new quarters still unfinished, which promise to be +very handsome and commodious. There is a sort of imitation of Bordeaux +in the style of building, without altogether such good taste: at least, +this may be said of the theatre, which, though immensely large, is much +less majestic or beautiful; its position is, perhaps, even better than +that of Bordeaux, as it stands in a large uninterrupted square, with a +fine walk and trees by the quay on one side; and all the streets which +extend from it are new and wide. + +The street in which the principal hotels are placed is very like one on +the _cours_ at Bordeaux, and is remarkably striking; but, besides this, +there is little to admire in the town, except the singularity of two +rivers running through its streets, like another Venice. + +The residence of the Queen of Spain, Anne of Neubourg, widow of Charles +II., at Bayonne, is still remembered, and anecdotes are told of her +during her long stay of thirty-two years. She arrived on the 20th +September, 1706, and was received with great honours by all the +dignitaries: the town was illuminated, and the streets hung with +tapestry, as she passed to the Chateau-Vieux, where she took up her +abode. She seems to have been very much beloved, to have shown great +benevolence, and made herself numerous friends. Her generosity and +profusion, however, caused her to leave on her departure twelve hundred +thousand francs of debt, which Ferdinand VI. had to pay. Scandal was not +silent concerning her, and a lover was named in the young chevalier +Larreteguy whose brother was at one time confined in the Chateau d'If +for an impertinent exclamation which he made one day when the Queen's +carriage was stopped by the crowd on the Pont Majour--"Room for my +sister-in-law." A fine complexion and an air of majesty constituted her +beauty; but she grew enormously fat, and was not remarkable for her +outward attractions. + +She seems to have exhibited some caprice in her rejection of a palace +which she had caused to be built at great expense. It was called the +Chateau de Marrac, and had been erected under her orders with infinite +care: when it was finished she refused to occupy it in consequence of +one of her ladies having presumed to take possession of a suite of +chambers previous to her having been regularly installed as mistress. +This was the reason assigned; but she had, it may be imagined, a better +to give for abandoning a place which had cost her so much money. + +She made frequent journeys to St. Jean Pied de Port, Bidache, Cambo, +Terciis, &c., for her health, and was always received on her return to +Bayonne with sovereign honours. The magistrates of the town went, on one +occasion, to meet her with offerings of fruit, flowers, expensive wines, +hams, and game, all in silver filigree baskets, beautifully worked. + +During a dangerous illness which she had, the shrine containing the +relics of St. Leon was lowered, as in a period of general calamity; and, +on her recovery, prayers and thanksgivings were commanded, and a solemn +procession of all the officers of the town, civil and military, took +place. + +In 1738 she returned to Spain, greatly regretted by all who had known +her at Bayonne; and, it seems, she was so much impressed with sorrow at +having left an abode so agreeable to her that she survived only two +years, and died at Guadalajara in 1740. + +An account of a fete, given by the Queen on occasion of some successes +in Spain which greatly rejoiced her, concludes with the following rather +amusing sentence: "After the repast was finished, much to the +satisfaction of all, a _panperruque_ was danced through the town. M. de +Gibaudiere led the dance, holding the hand of the _Mayor of Bayonne_; +the Marquis de Poyanne bringing up the rear: so that this dance rejoiced +all the people, who, on their side, gave many demonstrations of joy. It +lasted even till the next day amongst the people, and on board the +vessels in the river; and the windows of every house were illuminated." + +Bayonne has a reputation for being in general extremely healthy; and its +position, in reach of the fine fresh sea air, seems to render it +probable. To me, after the close atmosphere of Pau, it was peculiarly +pleasant; and seemed to give new life, and restore the spirits, +depressed by that enervating climate, where, except for invalids, a long +residence is anything but desirable. + +There seems but little commercial movement at Bayonne, and no bustle on +the quays; indeed, except at Nantes, I have always, in France, been +struck with the quiet and silent aspect of the seaports; so unlike our +own. Just at the time we were there, great complaints were being made, +in consequence of the prohibition of Spanish ships from touching at any +port of the South of France: commerce was at a stand-still, and all +persons in trade seemed vexed and disappointed at the bad prospect +before them. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + BASQUE LANGUAGE--DIALECTS--WORDS--POETRY--SONGS--THE + DESERTER--CHARACTER--DRAMA--TOWNS. + + +THE Basque country,--in which the ancient town of Bayonne, or Lapurdum, +holds a principal place,--is unequally divided between France and Spain. +The one part is composed of La Soule, Basse Navarre, and Labourd, and +extends over a surface of about a hundred and forty square leagues; the +other portion comprises Haute Navarre, Alava, Guipuscoa, and Biscay, and +contains about nine hundred and sixty square leagues: so that the whole +country in which the Basque language is spoken, enclosed between the +Adour, Bearn, the river Arragon, the Ebro, and the ocean, contains not +less than eleven hundred square leagues. Part of this extent is barren, +rude, and wooded, and is said to resemble the ancient state of Gaul, as +described by historians. Though immense tracts of wood have been cleared +away, there is still more in this region than in any other of the +Pyrenees; there are three great forests; one of Aldudes, in the valley +of Balgorry, where exist the only copper-mines in France; the forest of +Irati, near Roncevaux; and that of St. Engrace, which joins the woods of +Itseaux. + +The habits, manners, and language, of this people have engaged the +attention of the curious for a series of years; and the speculations +and, surmises to which they have given rise are without end. Although it +is generally thought that the Basques are descendants of the ancient +Iberians, some learned writers contend that the singular language which +they speak, and which has no resemblance to that of any of the nations +which surround them, approaches very near the Celtic. + +Whether they are _Vascons_ or _Cantabrians_, they are called, in their +own tongues, _Escualdunac_, and their language _Escuara_. Seventy-two +towns, bourgs, and villages, are named, by Du Mege, as appropriated to +the people of this denomination,--that is, from the mouth of the Adour +to the banks of the Soison and the mountains south of the Pays de Soule. +He remarks that no historian of antiquity has made mention of this +people, or their language, under the name they at present bear; and it +was never advanced till the end of the sixteenth and beginning of the +seventeenth centuries, that the inhabitants of Alava, Guipuscoa, and +Spanish and French Navarre had preserved the ancient language of the +Iberians, and that they were the representatives of that nation; never +having been conquered by any foreign invaders, and never having mixed +their blood. + +Du Mege observes, on these pretensions: "History, studied at its purest +sources, and from its most authentic documents, proves that, in the most +distant times, several nations,--amongst whom, doubtless, should be +included those who first inhabited the coasts of Africa,--came and +established themselves in Spain. The Pelasgians, the Greeks of +Zacinthus, of Samos, the Messineans, the Dorians, the Phoceans, the +Laconians, the Tyrians or Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Celts or +Gauls, and the Eastern Iberians. Strabo mentions that in the Peninsula +were many different languages _and alphabets_; no doubt, as many +alphabets as idioms. Great care has been taken to discover the origin of +these alphabets, the letters of which _are still to be found in Spain, +in several inscriptions engraved on marble_, and in numerous medals." + +Nothing satisfactory, however, has been established respecting the +language; but a probable one appears to be Velasquez' opinion, that it +is formed of dialects of Greek and Hebrew; but this opinion is combated +by many learned Spaniards. One author, in particular, was so violent in +his enthusiasm, that it led him to discover all the ancient history +combined in the Basque language. To him it was of little consequence +that the names mentioned by different authors belonged to Spain, Africa, +England, or Normandy,--the learned Dr. Zuniga, cure of Escalonilla, +explained them all as _Basque_. Thus, for instance, _Scotland_, called +_Escocia_ in Spanish, he asserts was so called from _escuocia_, a _cold +hand_! Ireland, which is Irlanda in Spanish, means, in Basque, +_Ira-Landa_, i.e., _meadow of fern_: and so on to the end of the +chapter, in a strain which becomes highly comic. Another writer followed +in his steps,--Don Juan de Erro y Aspiroz,--who surpassed him in +absurdity; proving to his own satisfaction, not only that the Basque is +ancient, but that its alphabet _furnished one to the Greeks_, and that +the same nation instructed the Phoenicians in the use of money; added to +which, they passed into Italy, and _from them_ sprung the Romans--those +conquerors of the world. + +Certainly, etymologists do fall into strange errors; as when the forgery +_pour rire_ of Count de Gibelin was taken for the Lord's Prayer in +Celtic, and explained as such by the famous Lebrigant! + +Humboldt, in his "Researches" on the origin of the first inhabitants of +Spain, falls into errors which are to be lamented; as his great name may +afford sanction to the dreams of others. He acknowledges that he is +puzzled to find that there is no trace amongst the ancients of the term +Escualdunac. He does not go so far as Zuniga, who discovers in the name +of Obulco, engraved on ancient medals, Tri-Gali, i.e. "laughing corn" or +Balza-Gala--"black corn:" that Catalonia (evidently a modern name) +signifies, "The country of wild cats." Cascantum--"dirty place;" and +Hergaones--"good place of the spinners!" + +Du Mege observes, that Humboldt has unfortunately followed former +writers too much; and though all he writes is worthy of respect, he +fails to convince, in this treatise, having begun on false ground. Since +then, M. de Montglave has "proved" a fact which is very startling, +namely, that there is a great affinity between the Basque language and +the dialects of the indigenous nations of South America![36] + +[Footnote 36: This M. Mazure will by no means allow in his "Histoire du +Bearn et du Pays Basque."] + +This last circumstance, which new observations seem to render more and +more probable, would at once put an end, if really proved, to all +discussion, and open a new field for speculation. It would be somewhat +curious to establish the certainty of the South Americans having +discovered and colonized Europe many centuries before they were +re-discovered by Europeans!--this, once determined, the Druid stones and +the round towers of Ireland might all, by degrees, be explained: the +obstinate resolve of all learned persons to derive everything in Europe +from the Greeks and Romans, or to go to the far East, when fairly driven +there, to find out origins, is very hard upon the enormous double +continent of the New World, whose wondrous ruined palaces prove the +original inhabitants to have been highly civilized and of immense power: +and which, by its extent and variety, might cast into insignificance +those proud specks which imagine themselves suns, when they are, +perhaps, only motes in the sun's beams. + +It scarcely appears that the learned and impartial Du Mege has settled +the question by his arguments; indeed he seems himself aware that it is +yet open, for he rather confutes others than assumes an opinion himself. + +He concludes, that the ancient Vascons who overran Aquitaine, in 600, +are certainly not the same people as those who now speak the Escuara +language, and that these _may have been_ "one of those people who +invaded the Roman empire in the reign of Probus, or the remains of those +tribes to whom, in the time of Honorius, was confided the guardianship +of the entrance of the Pyrenees. Thus placed in the defiles of the +mountains, _it was easy_ for them to extend themselves successively into +Aquitaine, Navarre, Guipuscoa, &c., to impose their _language_ and their +laws on the terrified people, and thus _mix themselves with_ the +Vascons and Cantabrians of Spain, and the Tarbelli and Sibyllates of +Gaul." + +Whatever may be their origin, the Basques, as they exist at this moment, +are a very singular people, both as to their customs and language: there +is not the slightest resemblance between them and their neighbours; they +are perfectly foreigners in the next village to that which they inhabit. +Some _profane_ persons (M. Pierquin, for instance, who goes near to do +so, in an article on _la France litteraire_,) have dared to insinuate, +that the language of the Basques is nothing more than a mere jargon, +_both modern and vulgar_; but this is so cruel an assertion, and one +which destroys so many theories, reducing learning to a jest, that no +wonder M. Mazure and others are indignant at such boldness. + +It must be confessed that, since extremes meet, the same arguments used +to prove the classical antiquity of the language would serve to convince +that it was merely modern, and made use of, by uneducated persons, to +express their wants as readily as possible. There are, in the Basque, +terms which represent ideas by sounds, explaining, by a sort of musical +imitation, many usual acts, and the appearance of objects; but this is +frequently brought forward by its defenders in its favour, and as +establishing its antiquity. + +M. Mazure, who appears an enthusiast for the Basque language, produces +several words to show the sublimity contained in their signification: +for instance, he says, "the radical name of _the Moon_, combined with +other terms, gives occasion for superb expressions, full of thought, and +of a character which no modern language could furnish: thus--_ilarquia_, +the moon, signifies _its light_, or its _funereal_ light; and +_illarguia, ilkulcha, ilobia, ilerria, ileguna_, signify the _coffin_, +the _grave_, the _churchyard_, the _day of death_. + +"The days of the week are also extremely expressive--as Friday, +Saturday, Sunday, which convey the idea of the _remembrance of the death +of the Saviour--the last day of work--the great day_. A strictly +Christian nation has left, in these words, their stamp." This being the +case, how does it agree with the extraordinarily antique origin of the +Basques? However, it appears that these are exceptions; other words +being sufficiently unintelligible, that is to say, difficult to explain. + +M. Mazure considers that the Basque language is, in some respects, the +_most perfect_ that exists, from the _unity of the verb_ which it +preserves: its system of conjugation alone were enough, in his opinion, +to make it an object worthy of study and admiration to all grammarians. +To the uninitiated, the very opposite opinions of M. Mazure and M. +Pierquin are somewhat amusing: the former insists that the Basque has +nothing to do with Hebrew or Phoenician, but inclines to think it a +lost _African_ dialect, such as, _perhaps_, might have been spoken by +the Moors of Massinissa, who peopled Spain, and probably Aquitaine, at +some period unknown. + +One singular fact with respect to this mysterious dialect is, that it +possesses no written nor printed books older than two centuries since; +and no alphabet has been discovered belonging to it; consequently it has +no literature; but it has preserved many songs and ballads, some of +great delicacy and beauty; and its _improvvisatore_, by profession, are +as fruitful as the Italians. One popular song, in the dialect of +Labourd, may give an idea of the strange language which occupies so much +attention. + + BASQUE SONG. + + "Tchorittoua, nourat houa + Bi hegaliz, airian? + Espagnalat jouaiteko, + Elhurra duk bortian: + Algarreki jouanen gutuk + Elhurra hourtzen denian. + + "San Josefen ermitha, + Desertian gorada + Espagnalat jouaiteko + Handa goure palissada. + Guibelerat so-guin eta, + Hasperenak ardura. + + Hasperena, babilona, + Maitiaren borthala + Bihotzian sarakio + Houra eni bezala; + Eta guero eran izok + Nik igorten haidala. + + TRANSLATION. + + Borne on thy wings amidst the air, + Sweet bird, where wilt thou go? + For if thou wouldst to Spain repair, + The ports are filled with snow. + Wait, and we will fly together, + When the Spring brings sunny weather. + + St. Joseph's hermitage is lone, + Amidst the desert bare, + And when we on our way are gone, + Awhile we'll rest us there; + As we pursue our mountain-track, + Shall we not sigh as we look back? + + Go to my love, oh! gentle sigh, + And near her chamber hover nigh; + Glide to her heart, make that thy shrine, + As she is fondly kept in mine. + Then thou may'st tell her it is I + Who sent thee to her, gentle sigh! + +It appears to me, that there is a very remarkable similarity between the +habits of the people of the Basque country and those of Brittany; +although they of the South are not rich in beautiful legends, such as M. +de Villemarque has preserved to the world: they have dramas and +mysteries just in the same manner: some of which last for days, and are +played in the open air by the people. They name their rocks and valleys +as the Bretons do: as, for instance, they have the _Vallee du Sang_, the +_Col des Ossemens_, the _Foret du Refuge_, the _Champ de la Victoire_; +and traditions attach to each of these. There is, however, a gayer, +livelier character amongst them than that which inspires the pathetic +ballads of Brittany. The Basques are very ready to be amused; are more +hilarious and less gloomy than the Bretons: yet they have the same love +of their country, and regret at leaving it. An author[37] who has +written on the subject, says: "To judge properly of the Basque, he +should be seen amidst his pleasures and his games; for it is then that +he exhibits his brilliant imagination. Often, in the joy of a convivial +meeting--when his natural gaiety, excited by wine and good cheer, is +arrived at that point of vivacity when man seems united to the chain of +existence only by the link of pleasure--one of the guests will feel +himself inspired: he rises; the tumult ceases; profound silence is +established, and his noisy companions are at once transformed to +attentive listeners. He sings: stanzas succeed each other, and poetry +flows naturally from his lips. The measure he adopts is grave and quiet; +the air seems to come with the words, without being sought for; and +rich imagery and new ideas flash forth at every moment, whether he takes +for his subject the praise of one of the guests, or the chronicles of +the country. He will sing thus for hours together: but some other feels +inspired in his turn; a kind of pastoral combat takes place--very like +those between the troubadours of old--and the interest of the scene +increases. Presently they start into dances, and their steps accompany +the words, still more like the custom of the jongleurs. The rivals sing +and dance alternately, as the words require it; their movements increase +in expression, the most difficult and the prettiest are striven for by +the dancers, the time being always well preserved, and the spirit of the +poem not lost sight of. When they are obliged to give up, from mere +fatigue, a censor pronounces which is the victor: that is, which of the +two has given the most gratification to the audience." + +[Footnote 37: M. Boucher. "Souvenirs du Pays Basque."] + +The Basque poet has no view in his compositions but the expression of +his feelings: he has no idea of gain, or reputation, but sings because +he requires to show the emotions which agitate him. It is not a little +singular that, in this particular, he resembles the inhabitants of +Otaheite; one of whom Bougainville describes as having sung in strophes +all that struck him during a voyage. + +The Basque language seems very well adapted for light poetry; and, +indeed, is peculiarly fitted for rhyme, and has a natural ease which +helps the verse along, in a manner which belongs to the Italian. The +ideas are always tender and delicate, to a surprising degree, as the +following songs may prove: + + BASQUE SONG. + + "Su garretan," &c. + + I BURN in flames, because my heart + Has loved thee through the dreary past; + And in my eyes the tear-drops start, + To think I lose thee at the last. + My days are pass'd in ceaseless weeping, + And all my nights in vain regret; + No peace awaits me--waking--sleeping, + Until I die, and all forget: + And thou who seest me thus repine, + Hast not a tear for grief like mine! + +The Basque poet can seldom read or write: he owes nothing to education: +nature alone is his instructress, and she inspires him with ideas the +most graceful, tender, and, at the same time, correct, for nothing +exceptionable is ever heard in his songs. In many of these there is a +strain which might parallel some of the sweetest odes of the Persians; +from whom, it is not impossible but that they may have derived them; if, +indeed, the early troubadours from the East have not left their traces +in such lays as this: + + BASQUE SONG. + + "Ezdut uste baden ceruan aingeruric," &c. + + I CANNOT think in heaven above + Immortal angels there may be, + Whose hearts can show so pure a love + As that which binds my soul to thee: + + And when, my ceaseless suff'rings past, + The grave shall make me all forget, + I only ask thee, at the last, + One gentle sigh of fond regret. + +Very often these songs take the form of dialogues: the following is one +very well known in the country: + + BASQUE SONG. + + "Amodioac bainarabila chorinoa aircan bezala," &c. + + _The Lover_. + + LOVE lifts me gently in the air, + As though I were a bird to fly, + And nights to me, like days, are fair, + Because my gentle love is nigh. + + _The Mistress_. + + Thou call'st me dear--ah! seest thou not + Those words have only pow'r to grieve me? + Why is my coldness all forgot? + And why not, at my bidding, leave me? + + _The Lover_. + + The love I feel--and canst thou doubt-- + I, who would traverse seas for thee! + Who have no power to live without, + And own thy charms are life to me. + + _The Mistress_. + + If I have charms, thine eye alone + Behold'st the beauty none can prize; + Oh! in the world exists but one + Who fills my soul and dims my eyes: + That one--ask not who he may be, + But leave me--for thou art not he! + +The following may serve as a specimen of their passionate expressions: + + BASQUE SONG. + + "Ene maitcac biloa hori," &c. + + My fair one, with the golden tresses, + With rosy cheeks and hands of snow, + With hopeless care each heart oppresses, + Around her step such graces glow. + + A cloud, upon her brow descending, + Has dimm'd that eye of dazzling ray, + Upon whose glance, the light attending, + Has led my giddy heart astray. + + I see thee, like the flow'r of morning, + In sweetness and in beauty shine; + None like to thee the world adorning-- + My life, my soul, my life is thine! + +The Basques have compositions in various styles--complaints and +satires--like the professors of the _gaie science_. War and peace are +celebrated by them: there are poems on La Tour d'Auvergne; Napoleon; +Wellington, and the Revolution of July: in tragedy and melo-drama they +peculiarly succeed; and there exists a modern Basque drama, of singular +merit, called Marie de Navarre, the scene of which is laid in the tenth +century, in which great power is exhibited, and considerable dramatic +effect produced. + +There is a saying, well known in the country, _"Ce n'est pas un homme, +c'est un Basque;"_ which is intended to express the superiority of the +native of these regions over all others. It appears that the Basque is, +in fact, of much finer form than the rest of the people of the Pyrenees; +and the young women are proverbially handsome. I cannot speak from +extensive observation; but of this often-named peculiarity of personal +appearance I was by no means sensible in the few specimens I have +seen--for all the people of this part of the South seemed to me +extremely inferior in beauty to those of the North; and, taken in +general, it strikes me that the handsomest natives of France I have seen +are to be found in Normandy. I speak merely as comparing the people with +the same classes in England: and to one accustomed to the sparkling +clear eye, fine delicate complexion, tall stature, and finely-developed +figures of both our men and women, the inhabitants of the whole of +France seem very inferior: there is a monotony in their tanned faces, +spare figures, and black eyes and hair, which wearies, and ceases to +create interest after the first. Some individuals in the Basque country, +however, struck me as handsome and very intelligent. + +The Basque is bold and brave, and the French armies never had finer +soldiers, as far as regarded spirit, than the natives of these +countries: but neither did any region produce so many deserters; for the +_maladie du pays_ is strong upon them, and they take the first +opportunity of returning to their home amongst the mountains. This is +not confined to the Basque, but occurs to all the mountaineers of Bearn. +One instance will show this feeling; the story was related by a guide to +the Breche de Roland, who knew the circumstances. A young man had been +forced by the conscription to join Napoleon's army: he was very young at +the time, and went through all the dangers, hardships, and privations +like a mountaineer and a man of courage; but, as soon as he saw an +opportunity, he deserted, and sought the land where all his wishes +tended. He was pursued and traced from place to place; but, generally +favoured by his friends and assisted by his own ingenuity, he always +eluded search, and, with the precaution of never sleeping two nights in +the same village, he managed for several years to continue free. He was +in love with a young girl, and on one occasion, at a _fete_, had come +far over the mountains to dance with her: he was warned by a companion +that emissaries had been seen in the neighbourhood; but he determined +nothing should interfere with the pleasure he anticipated in leading out +the lass he loved. He had a rival, however, in the company, who gave +notice to the officers of justice that the deserter would be at the +dance, and, accordingly, in the midst of the revel--as they were +executing one of those agile dances, called _Le Saut Basque_--the object +of pursuit became aware that, amidst the throng, were several persons +whom he had no difficulty in guessing were his pursuers. They kept their +station close to the path he must take when he left the spot where they +were dancing, and he, with great presence of mind and determined +gallantry, finished the measure with his pretty partner: at the last +turn, he looked briskly round, and observing that one of his companions +was leaning on a thick stick, he suddenly caught it from his grasp, and +with a leap and run, dashed past the party who were waiting for him, +brandishing the weapon over his head and keeping all off. They were so +taken by surprise, that they had no power to detain him; and the +villagers closing round and impeding them as much as possible, the young +hero got off to the mountains in safety. He was, however, taken some +time after this scene, and carried to Bayonne to be tried, when every +one expected that he would meet with capital punishment; but it was +found impossible to identify him--no one could be induced to appear +against him--and the magistrates, wearied out, at length gave him his +discharge, and he returned to live quietly in his village, and marry his +love, after having been a hunted man in the woods and mountains for +nearly ten years. + +The Basque is said to be irritable, revengeful, and implacable; but gay +and volatile, passionately addicted to dancing and the _jeu de paume_, +which he never abandons till compelled by positive infirmity. He is very +adventurous, and fond of excitement; it is not, therefore, singular that +he should be a hardy smuggler, so cunning and adroit that he contrives +to evade the officers of the excise in a surprising manner. If, however, +a smuggler falls beneath the shot of one of the guardians of right, all +the natives become at once his deadly enemy, and he has no safety but in +leaving the country instantly. The women assist their relations in this +dangerous traffic, and perform acts of daring, which are quite +startling. It is told of one, a young girl of Eshiarce, that, being hard +pressed by a party of excise, she ran along a steep ledge of rocks, and, +at a fearful height, cast herself into the Nive: no one dared to follow +down the ravine; and they saw her swimming for her life, battling with +the roaring torrent; she reached the opposite shore, turned with an +exulting gesture, although her basket of contraband goods was lost in +the stream, and, darting off amongst the valleys, was lost to their +view. + +The Basques have their comedy, which they call _Tobera-Munstruc_, or +_Charivari represented_; and they enter into its jokes with the utmost +animation and delight. They generally take for their subject some +popular event of a comic nature, and all is carried on extempore. The +young men of a village meet to consult respecting it; and then comes the +_ceremonie du baton_. Those who choose to be actors, or simply to +subscribe towards the expenses, range themselves on one side; two +amongst them hold a stick at each end, and all those chosen pass beneath +it; this constitutes an engagement to assist; and it is a disgrace to +fail. News is then sent to the villages round of the intention to act a +comedy; and preparations are made by the select committee. The +representations are positive _fetes_, and are looked forward to with +great pleasure; crowds attend them; and their supporters are usually +picked men, who have a reputation for talent and wit. Crimes never come +under their consideration: it is always something extremely ridiculous, +or some ludicrous failing, that is turned into contempt and held up to +risibility. It is quite amazing to what an extent the genius of the +improvvisatores go at times; they display consummate art and knowledge +of human nature, quick _repartie_, subtle arguments, absurd +conjunctions, startling metaphors, and are never at a loss to meet the +assertions of their adversary on the other side; for it is always in the +form of law-pleadings, for and against, that the comedy is conducted. + +It is usually carried on in the manner following: + +The crowd assembled, a man on horseback opens the _cortege_: he is +dressed in white trowsers, a purple sash, a white coat, and a fine cap, +ornamented with tinsel and ribbons; flutes, violins, tamborines, and +drums, succeed; then come about forty dancers, in two files, who advance +in a cadenced step; this is the celebrated dance called the _Morisco_, +which is reserved for great occasions. This troop is in the same costume +as the man on horseback; each dancer holding in his right hand a wand, +adorned with ribbons, and surmounted by a bouquet of artificial flowers. +Then come the poet and a guard, a judge and two pleaders, in robes; and +a guard on foot, bearing carbines, close the procession. + +The judge and advocates take their places on the stage, seating +themselves before three tables, the poet being in front on the left. + +A carnival scene now takes place, in which are all sorts of strange +costumes, harlequins, clowns, and jokers; in this a party of blacksmiths +are conspicuous, whose zeal in shoeing and unshoeing a mule, on which a +_huissier_ sits, with his face to the tail, creates great merriment. +When all this tumult is quieted by proclamation, music sounds; the poet +advances and improvises an address, in which he announces the subject of +the piece; his manner is partly serious, partly jesting. He points out +the advocate who is to plead the cause of morals and propriety: this one +rises, and, in the course of his exordium, takes care to throw out all +the sarcasm he can against his rival, who rouses himself, and the battle +of tongues begins, and is carried on in a sort of rhyming prose, in +which nothing is spared to give force to jest or argument against the +reigning vices or follies of the day. As the orators proceed and become +more and more animated on the subject, they are frequently interrupted +by loud applause. Sometimes, in these intervals, the poet gives a +signal, which puts an end to the discussions before the public are +fatigued; and, the music sounding, the performers of the national dance +appear, and take the place of the two advocates for a time. These +combatants soon re-commence their struggle; and, at length, the judge is +called upon to pronounce between them. A farcical kind of consultation +ensues between the judge and the ministers around, who are supposed to +send messengers even to the king himself by their mounted courier in +attendance. + +The judge at last rises, and, with mock solemnity, delivers his fiat. +Then follow quadrilles; and the famous _Sauts Basques_, so well-known +and so remarkable, close the entertainments. + +These _fetes_ last several days, as in Brittany, and are very similar in +their style. I am told, however, that, though very witty, these +representations are not fit for _la bonne compagnie_. + +"If to what we have been able to collect on what are called Basques," +says Du Mege, "we add the remarks of General Serviez, _charge +d'administration_ of the department of the Basses Pyrenees, a complete +picture is presented of the manners and habits of the descendants of the +Escualdunacs, who may be subdivided into three tribes, or families: the +_Labourdins_, the _Navarrais_, and the _Souletins_." + +"They have rather the appearance of a foreign colony transplanted into +the midst of the French, than a people forming a portion of the country, +and living under the same laws and government. They are extremely brave, +and are always the terror of the Spaniards in all wars with them; but +their aversion to leaving their homes is very great, and their +attachment to their personal liberty is remarkable. They are much wedded +to their own habits and customs, and are almost universally +_unacquainted_ with the French language. They are said to be the +_cleanest people in the world_; in which particular they singularly +differ from the Bretons, whom, in some respects, they resemble. + +"Mildness and persuasion does much with them, severity nothing: they are +choleric in temper, but soon appeased; nevertheless, they are implacable +in their hatred, and resolute in their revenge. Ready to oblige, if +flattered; restless and active, hard-working; _habitually sober and +well-conducted_, and violently attached to their religion and their +priests. They seem rarely to know fatigue, for, after a hard day's work, +they think little of going five or six leagues to a _fete_, and to be +deprived of this amusement is a great trial to them. + +"They are tenacious of the purity of their blood, and avoid, as much as +possible, contracting alliances with neighbouring nations; they are +impatient of strangers acquiring possessions in their country. They are +apt to quarrel amongst each other at home; but there is a great _esprit +du corps_ amongst them when they meet abroad. There are shades of +difference in their characters, according to their province. In general, +the _Souletins_ are more cunning and crafty than the rest, resembling +their neighbours of Bearn in their moral qualities. The _Navarrais_ is +said to be more fickle. The _Labourdins_ are fonder of luxuries, and +less diligent than the others; and it is thought, consequently, less +honest; the latter are generally sailors, and are known as good +whalers." + +There seems a desire amongst _improvers_ in France to do away amongst +the common people with the original language, or _patois_, which exists +in so many of the provinces; and in many of the schools nothing is +taught but French. This would seem to be a benefit, as far as regards +civilization; but it shocks the feelings of the people, who are +naturally fond of the language of their fathers. The Bretons, like the +Welsh with us, are very tenacious of this attempt: the people of +Languedoc, with Jasmin, their poet, at their head, have made a stand for +their tongue; and the Basques, at the present moment, are in great +distress that measures are now being taken to teach their children +French, and do away altogether with the language of which they are so +proud, and which is so prized by the learned. In a late _Feuilleton_ of +the Memorial des Pyrenees, I observed a very eloquent letter on the +subject of instruction in French in the rural schools, from which the +Basque language is banished. The children learn catechism and science in +French, and can answer any question put to them in that language by the +master, like parrots, being quite unable to translate it back into the +tongue they talk at home, where nothing but Basque meets their ears. + +It is, of course, quite necessary that they should understand French for +their future good; but there does not appear a sufficient reason that +they should neglect their own language, or, at any rate, that they +should not be instructed in it, and have the same advantage as the +Welsh subjects of Great Britain, who did not, however, obtain all they +claimed for their primitive language without a struggle. + +The writer in the Memorial contends that the children should be taught +their prayers in Basque, and should know the grammar of that dialect in +order to be able to write to their friends when abroad--for many of them +are soldiers and sailors,--in a familiar tongue, since those at home by +their fire-sides know nothing of French, and could not understand the +best French letter that was ever penned. The question is, could they +read _at all_, and if the epistle were read for them by a more learned +neighbour, would not French be as easy as Basque? for the friend must +have been at school to be of use. + +Be this as it may, the "coil" made for the beloved tongue shows the +feeling which still exists in Navarre for the "_beau dialecte +Euskarien_." + +"Do you know what you would destroy?" exclaims M. de Belsunce, in +somewhat wild enthusiasm; "the sacred relic of ages--the aboriginal +idiom, as ancient as the mountains which shelter and serve for its +asylum! + +"The Basque language is our glory, our pride, the theme of all our +memories, the golden book of our traditions. Proud and free in its +accent, noble and learned in its picturesque and sonorous expressions, +its formation and grammatical form are both simple and sublime; add to +which, the people preserve it with a religious devotion. + +"It is the language spoken by our illustrious ancestors--those who +carried the terror of their arms from the heights of the Pyrenees to +Bordeaux and Toulouse. It is the language of the conquerors of +Theodobert, Dagobert, and Carebert; and of the fair and ill-fated wife +of the latter--the unfortunate Giselle. Were not the sacred cries of +liberty and independence uttered amongst our mountains in that tongue, +and the songs of triumph which were sent to heaven after the victory of +the Gorges of the Soule? It is the dialect named by Tacitus, as that of +those who were never conquered--_Cantaber invictus_: immortalized as +that of the _Lions of War_: spoken by the most _ancient people in the +world_--a race of shepherds with patriarchal manners, proverbial +hospitality, and right-mindedness; light-hearted, friendly and true, +though implacable in vengeance and terrible in anger as undaunted in +courage. + +"Our chronicles live in our national songs, and our language proves an +ancient civilization. To the philosopher and the learned who study it, +it presents, from its grandeur, its nobility, and the rich harmony of +its expressions, a subject of grave meditation; it may serve as the key +of the history of nations, and solve many doubts on the origin of lost +or faded languages." + +Perhaps M. de Belsunce takes a rather pompous view of the subject; but +he has, nevertheless, much reason in his appeal. + +As specimens of this extraordinary language, some of the names of the +Basque towns may amuse and surprise the reader; perhaps, in the +Marquesas islands, lately taken possession of by the French, they may +find some sounds which to Basque sailors, of which a ship's crew is +almost certain to have many, may be familiar. + +Places in the district of Forest of Saint Eugrace. + +Iratsodoqui. Urruxordoqui. Mentchola. Orgambidecosorhona. + +Furunchordoqui, near the Port d'Anie. + +The Pic d'Anie is properly called Ahuguamendi. + +In Basse Burie occur the following names;-- + +Iturourdineta. Iparbarracoitcha. Aspildoya. Lehintchgarratia. + +In the arrondissement of Bayonne may be met with:--Urkheta, Hiriburu, +Itsasu, Beraskhoitce, Zubernua, and others equally singular in sound. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + CAGOTS--CACOUS OF BRITTANY. + + +ONE of the most puzzling and, at the same time, interesting subjects, +which recurs to the explorer in the Pyrenees, is the question respecting +that mysterious race of people called Cagots, whose origin has never yet +been satisfactorily accounted for. All travellers speak of the Cagots, +and make allusion to them, but nothing very positive is told. When I +arrived in the Pyrenees, my first demand was respecting them; but those +of my countrymen who had ever heard of their existence assured me that +their denomination was only another word for _Cretin_ or _Goitreux_: +others insisted that no trace of the ancient _parias_ of these countries +remained, and some treated the legends of their strange life as mere +fables. + +I applied to the French inhabitants; from whom I heard much the same, +though all agreed that Cagots were to be found in different parts of the +mountains, and that they were still shunned as a race apart, though the +prejudice against them was certainly wearing away. + +I inquired of our Bearnaise servant whether she could tell me anything +about the Cagots, upon which she burst into a fit of laughter, which +lasted some time, on her recovery from which she informed me that they +were accustomed to use the word as a term of derision. "Any one," said +she, "_whose ears are short--cut off at the tip_, we call Cagot; but it +is only _pour rire_, it is not a polite word." + +I hoped, from her information, and the manner in which she treated the +subject, that the Cagots were indeed extinct, and known only as a +by-word, which had now no meaning; but I found, by conversing with +intelligent persons who had been a great deal in the mountains, and +given their attention to such discoveries, that the unfortunate people, +once the objects of scorn and oppression to all their fellow-men, are +still to be found, and still lead an isolated life, though no longer +proscribed or hunted like wild beasts as formerly. + +I examined, with the aid of a friend in Pau, the archives of the town, +and found several times mention made of these people up to a late +period, in which they were classed as persons out of the pale of the +law; a price is put on their heads, as if they were wolves; they are +forbidden to appear in the towns, and orders are issued to the police to +_shoot them_ if found infringing the rules laid down; punishments are +named as awaiting them if they ventured to ally themselves, in any way, +with any out of their own caste, and they are spoken of together with +brigands and malefactors, and all other persons whose crimes have placed +them out of the protection of their country. + +In Gascony, Bearn, and the Pays Basque, it is well known that for +centuries this proscribed race has existed, entirely separated from the +rest of their species, marrying with each other, and thus perpetuating +their misfortune, avoided, persecuted, and contemned: their origin +unknown, and their existence looked upon as a blot on the face of +nature. At one period the Cagots were objects of hatred, from the belief +that they were afflicted with the leprosy, which notion does not appear +to be founded on fact; in later times, they have been supposed to suffer +more especially from _goitre_; but physicians have established that they +are not more subject to this hideous disease than their neighbours of +the valleys and mountains. Nevertheless, a belief even now prevails that +this wretched people, and the race of Cretins, are the same, and that +they owe their origin to the Visigoths, who subdued a part of Gaul. + +Ramond, in his "Observations on the Pyrenees," has the following curious +passage: "My observations on the Cretins had thrown little light on the +subject; and learned persons whom I had consulted had not placed it in a +clearer point of view: I found myself obliged to add another proof to +the many that exist, to demonstrate that the resemblance of effects is +not always a sure indication of the identity of causes; when my habitual +intercourse with the people entirely changed the nature of the +question, by showing that it was amongst the unfortunate race of Cagots +that I should find the Cretins of the Valley of Luchon. + +"It was with a shyness which I found much difficulty in overcoming, that +the inhabitants of this country avowed to me that their valley contained +a certain number of families which, from time immemorial, were regarded +as forming part of an infamous and cursed race; that those who composed +them were never counted as citizens; that everywhere they were forbidden +to carry arms; that they were looked upon as slaves, and obliged to +perform the most degrading offices for the community at large; that +misery and disease was their constant portion; that the scourge of +_goitre_ generally belonged to them; that they were peculiarly afflicted +with the complaint in the valleys of Luchon, all those of the Pays de +Comminges, of Bigorre, Bearn, and the two Navarres; that their miserable +abodes are ordinarily in remote places, and that whatever amelioration +of prejudice has arisen in the progress of time, and the improvement of +manners, a marked aversion is always shown towards that set of people, +who are forced still to keep themselves entirely distinct from the free +natives of the villages in their neighbourhood." + +There hare, however, many parts of Bearn, Soule, and Navarre, for +instance, in following the course of the Gave of Oloron, inhabited by +Cagots who are by no means subject to the infirmity of _goitre_, by +which it appears that it is merely an accidental complaint with them as +with others. + +The prejudice which has peculiarly attributed to them this horrible +affliction is therefore erroneous: and equally so is the idea that they +carry in their appearance any indication of a difference of species: +for, instead of the sallow, weak, sickly hue which it was believed +belonged to them, it is known that they differ in nowise from the other +natives in complexion, strength, or health. Instances of great age occur +amongst them; and they are subject to no more nor less infirmities than +others. Beauty or ugliness, weakness or strength, deformity or +straightness, are common to the Cagots as to the rest of the human race. +This, however, is certain, that in some villages the richest persons are +of the proscribed order; but they, nevertheless, are held in a certain +degree of odium, and their alliance is avoided: the state of misery and +destitution in which they were represented to M. Ramond exists but +partially at present; for, being in general more active and industrious +than the other inhabitants, they very frequently become rich, although +they never are able to assume the position in society which wealth in +any other class allows. + +The following is a fearful picture, which it is to be hoped is +exaggerated at the present day. It exhibits the Cagots according to the +opinion a few years ago prevalent, and denies to this people the health +for which others who defend them contend: + +"Health," says the French author of "Travels in the French Pyrenees," +"that treasure of the indigent, flies from the miserable huts of Agos, +Bidalos, and Vieuzac: three villages, so close together, that they +constitute one whole: they are situated in the valley called Extremere +de Sales. The numerous sources which spring beside the torrent of +Bergons, the freshness and solitude of these charming retreats, the rich +shade of the thick chesnuts, which in summer form delicious groves--all +is obscured by the miserable state of the inhabitants: diseases of the +most loathsome kind prevail for ever in this smiling valley: Cretins +abound, those unhappy beings _supposed to be the descendants of the +Alains_, a part of whom established themselves in the Pyrenees and the +Valais. Whether this connexion really exists or not, a stupid +indifference, which prevents them from feeling their position, exists in +common with the Cretins amongst those people known as Goths, or Cagots, +_chiens de Gots_, and _Capots_, who are a fearful example of the +duration of popular hatred. They are condemned to the sole occupation +permitted to them, that of hewing of wood; are banished from society, +their dwellings placed at a distance from towns and villages, and are in +fact excommunicated beggars; forced, besides, in consequence of the +profession of Arianism, adopted by their Gothic ancestors, to wear on +their habits a mark of obloquy in the form of a goose's foot, which is +sewn on their clothes; exposed to insult and every species of severity; +condemned to the fear of having their feet pierced with hot irons, if +they appear bare-footed in towns, and pursued with the most bitter +rigour that bigotry and animosity can indulge in." + +The words, _Stupides, Idiots, Cretins_, and _Cagots_ have been +considered synonymous; but this is an error: the last wretched class +being separated in their misery, and distinct from the rest. The +beautiful valleys of the Pyrenees are frightfully infested with the +disease of _goitre_, and few of them are free; but the Cagots merely +share the affliction, as has been said before (following the learned and +benevolent Palassou) with the rest of the inhabitants. + +The notion which, at first sight, would seem better founded, is, that +the Cagots are descendants of those numerous _lepers_ who formed a +fearful community at one period, and were excluded from society to +prevent infection; but the more the subject is investigated the less +does this appear likely: though banished, from prudential motives, and +even held in abhorrence, from the belief that their malady was a +judgment of Heaven, those afflicted with leprosy, when healed, had the +power of returning to the communion of their fellows: they were not +excommunicated, nor placed beyond the mercy of the laws: they were +avoided, but not hated; and they had some hope for the future, which was +denied to the Cagots. + +In the Basque country they are called _Agots_, and it is ascertained +that, though held in the same aversion as in Bigorre, Navarre, and +Bearn, they have no physical defects, nor any difference of manners or +appearance to the rest of the natives: they are there also vulgarly said +to descend from the Goths. + +The popular notion of the shortness of the lobe of the ear, which is +supposed to be a characteristic of a Cagot, seems to be only worthy of +the laughter which accompanied its first announcement to me; yet it is +an old tradition, and has long obtained credence. + +The learned Marca, who has treated this subject, remarks: "These +unfortunate beings are held as infected and leprous; and by an express +article in the _Coutumes de Bearn_ and the provinces adjacent, familiar +conversation with the rest of the people is severely interdicted to +them. So that, even in the churches, they have a door set apart by which +to enter, with a _benitier_ and seats for them solely: they are obliged +to live in villages apart from other dwellings: they are usually +carpenters, and are permitted to use no arms or tools but those +expressly required in their trade: they are looked upon as infamous, +although they have, according to the ancient _Fors de Bearn_, a right to +be heard as witnesses; seven of them being required to make the +testimony of _one uninfected_ man." + +Though previous to the time of Louis VI. called Le Gros, in 1108, the +Cagots were sold as slaves _with_ estates, it does not appear that their +fate, in this respect, was different from that of other serfs, who were +all transferred from one master to another, without reserve. A +denomination given to a Cagot, however, in the record of a deed of gift, +mentioned by Marca, gives rise to other conjectures, involving still +more interesting inquiries. It is there stated, that with a "_nasse_" +was given a _Chretien_, named Auriot Donat; that is to say, the _house_ +of a Cagot and himself with it. + +In the cartulary of the _ci-devant_ Abbey of Luc, in the year 1000, and +in the _Fors de Bearn_, they are designated as _Chrestias_, and the term +_Cagot_, we are informed by Marca, was first employed in acts relative +to them in the year 1551. They are called _gaffos_ in an ancient _Fors_ +of Navarre, in 1074; and the term _Chrestiaas_ even now is used to +denote the villages where the Cagots reside. + +It appears that the Cagots of the present day are ordinarily denominated +_Agotacs_ and _Cascarotacs_, by the peasants of Bearn and the Basque +country: that of _Chretiens_ seemed affixed to them formerly, but was +equally so to the lepers who were obliged to live isolated, and their +abodes were called _chrestianeries_. + +As the serfs became emancipated, the Cagots, who had been slaves +peculiarly appropriated by the Church, and called by them, it seems, +_Chrestias_, were allowed similar privileges: added to which, from +having belonged to the ecclesiastics, and from not enjoying the rights +of citizens, they were exempt from taxes. In later times, this led to +innovations by these very Cagots, who, becoming rich, endeavoured to +usurp the prerogatives of nobility. The Etats of Bearn, issued a command +to the "_Cagot d'Oloron_,"--who appears to have been a powerful +person--to prevent him from building a _dovecote_, and to another to +forbid him the use of arms and the costume of a gentleman. + +At the church of St. Croix at Oloron is still to be seen a _benitier_, +set apart for the use of this race; and at the old fortified church of +Luz, was a little door, now closed up, by which they entered to perform +their devotions. + +The prohibition to carry arms, which never extended to _lepers_, would +seem to indicate that the Cagots, always separately mentioned in all the +public acts, were persons who might be dangerous to public tranquillity. +And this, together with the appellation of _Christians_, may give colour +to another opinion, entertained by those who reject the idea of their +being descendants of those Goths who took refuge in the mountains after +the defeat of Alaric by Clovis. + +The opinion to which I allude, and which is adopted by Palassou, is that +they come from those Saracens who fled from Charles Martel in the eighth +century, after the defeat of their chief, Abderraman, near Tours: these +Saracens are supposed to have sheltered themselves from pursuit in the +mountains, where, being prevented by the snows from going further, they +remained hemmed in, and by degrees established themselves here, and +conformed to Christianity; but does this account for the contempt and +hatred which they had to endure for so many centuries after? for no race +of people, once converted, were any longer held accursed in the country +where they lived. If, indeed, they remained pagan, this severity might +naturally have visited them; but the Cagots were certainly Christians +from early times, as the accommodations prepared for them in churches +proves. + +There seems little doubt that the armies of Abderraman spread themselves +over the Pyrenees, where they long kept the French and Gascons in fear: +traditions of them still exist, and the name of a plain near the village +of Ossun, in Bigorre, called Lane-Mourine, seems to tell its own tale, +as well as the relics found in its earth of the skulls of men, +pronounced by competent judges to be those of the natives of a warm +climate: in other words, of Saracens, or Moors. But still there seems +nothing to prove that the Cagots are the children of these identical +Moors, who are said to have been infected with leprosy, and consequently +shunned by the people amongst whom they had intruded themselves. + +Lepers, at all times, were ordered to be kept apart from the rest of the +people, and were placed under the care of the Church to prevent their +wandering and carrying infection with them; and the miserable condition +in which the proscribed race of Cagots existed, probably made them more +liable to take the hideous disease which would have separated them from +their kind, even if not already in that predicament: but there must have +been something more than mere disease which kept the line for ever drawn +between these poor wretches and the rest of the world. + +It is expressly defined in the speeches of ministers from the altar to +those afflicted with leprosy:--"_As long as you are ill_ you shall not +enter into any house out of the prescribed bounds." This applied to +_all_ afflicted with leprosy; but the embargo was never taken off the +Cagot. + +At one period, the priests made a difficulty of confessing those who +were Cagots, and Pope Leo X. was obliged to issue orders to all +ecclesiastics to administer the sacraments to them as well as to others +of the faithful. + +They were during some time called _gezitains_, or descendants of Gehazi, +the servant of Elisha, leprous and accursed; but by what authority does +not appear. The leprosy was called the _Arab evil_, and supposed to have +been brought into Europe by the Saracens: the _suspicion_ of _infection_ +which attached to this race might have caused them to be so shunned; +and, whether afflicted or not, they never got the better of this +suspicion. + +The greatest number of Cagots are to be found in those parts of the +Pyrenees which lead directly to Spain, which may strengthen the +supposition that the Moors are really their ancestors. A sad falling off +to the glory and grandeur of this magnificent people is the notion that +all that remains of them should be a race of outcasts, loathsome and +abhorred! I cannot induce myself to adopt this idea till more proof is +offered to support it, and better reason given to account for the +contempt and hatred shown to a people, who, though once followers of +Mahomed had become _Chretiaas_. + +Amongst other names given them are those of _gahets_ and _velus_, for +which there seems no explanation; but every new fact involves the +question in still deeper obscurity. + +It was always enacted that _catechumens_, during the two or three years +of probation which they passed previous to being received as children of +the Church, should live apart from professed Christians, being neither +allowed to eat or frequent the baptized, or give them the kiss of peace: +and the Saracens of course were subjected to the same trials, from +whence might first have arisen the habit of their living apart, and +being looked upon with suspicion, both on account of their former faith +and their supposed leprosy. This is, however, I think, scarcely +sufficient to warrant the long continuance of the enmity which has +pursued them. + +One of the acts of the parliament of Bordeaux shows with how much +harshness they were treated, and what pains were taken to keep them from +mixing with the people, long after the panic of leprosy must have +disappeared. In 1596 it was ordained that, "conformable to preceding +decrees, the _Cagots_ AND _gahets_ residing in the parishes and places +circumjacent, shall in future wear upon their vestments and on their +breasts a red mark, _in the form of a goose's or duck's foot_, in order +to be separated from the rest of the people; they are prohibited from +touching the viands which are sold in the markets, under the pain of +_being whipped_, except those which the sellers have delivered to them; +otherwise, they will be banished from the parish they inhabit: also, it +is forbidden to the said _cagots_ to touch the holy water in the +churches, which the other inhabitants take." The same decree was issued +to put in force ancient ordinances concerning them, in Soule, in the +year 1604. + +Still further animosity was shown to these miserable people in 1606. The +three states of the said country of Soule, in a general assembly, passed +an order by which it was forbidden "to the Cagots, under pain of +whipping, to exercise the trade of a miller, or to touch the flour of +the common people; and not to mingle in the dances of the rest of the +people, under pain of corporal punishment." + +Severe as these laws were, those against _lepers_ were still more +cautious: for whereas Cagots were allowed to enter the churches by a +private way, the lepers were not permitted to attend divine worship at +all; and had churches appropriated to them alone, which was never the +case with the Cagots, who were merely placed apart in the lowest seats. + +Much the same arrangements were made respecting the _Cacous_ of +Brittany, who were allowed to occupy a distant part of the churches, but +not to approach the altar, or touch any of the vestments or vases, under +a fine of a hundred sous; but chapels, or _freries_, were permitted them +at the gates of several towns--an indulgence apparently never permitted +to the _Cagots_. + +Lobineau derives their name from Latin and Greek words signifying +"_malady_," a denomination which strengthens the opinion of those who +imagine the crusaders brought the leprosy back from Palestine on their +return from their pilgrimage. + +That the Cagots were exempt from leprosy, appears from a circumstance +which took place in 1460, when "the States of Bearn demanded of Gaston +de Bearn, Prince of Navarre, that he would command the rule to be +enforced that the Cagots should not walk bare-footed in the streets, for +fear of communicating the leprosy, and that it should be permitted, in +case of their refusing to comply with the enactment, that their feet +should be pierced with a hot iron, and also that they should be obliged, +in order to distinguish them, to wear on their clothes the ancient mark +of a goose's foot, which they had long abandoned: _which proposition was +not attended to_, thereby proving that the council of the Prince did not +approve of the animosity of the States, and did not consider the Cagots +infected with leprosy." + +The law was more severe in Brittany, about the same period; for, in +1477, the Duke Francois II., in order to prevent the _cacous_, +_caqueux_, _or caquins_, from being under the necessity of begging, and +mingling with persons in health, granted them permission to use, as +farmers, the produce of the land near their dwellings, under certain +restrictions; and at the same time insisted on their renewing the red +mark which they were condemned to wear. He also ordered that all +commerce should be interdicted to them except that of _hemp_, from +whence it comes that the trade of a cordwainer is considered vile in +some cantons of Bretagne, as those of swineherd and boatman were in +Egypt. + +In some places in Brittany, the trade of cooper was looked upon with +contempt, and the opprobrious name of _caqueux_ was given to them +because they were thought to belong to a _race of Jews_ dispersed after +the ruin of Jerusalem, and who were considered _leprous from father to +son_. + +It was _only as late as_ 1723, that the parliament of Bordeaux--which +had long shown such tyranny towards this unhappy class--issued an order +that opprobrious names should no longer be applied to them, and that +they should be admitted into the general and private assemblies of +communities, allowed to hold municipal charges, and be granted the +honours of the church. They were to be permitted in future to enter the +galleries of churches like any other person; their children received in +schools and colleges in all towns and villages, and christian +instruction withheld from them no more than from another. Yet, in spite +of this ordinance, hatred and prejudice followed this people still; +though, protected by the laws, they fell on them less heavily. + +At Auch, a quarter was set apart for the _Cagots_, or _capots_, and +_another_ for _the lepers_. The _gakets_ of Guizeris, in the diocese of +Auch, had a door appropriated to them in the church, which the rest of +the inhabitants carefully avoided approaching. + +"This prejudice," says Brugeles,[38] "lasted till the visit paid to the +church by M. Louis d'Aignan du Sendat, archdeacon of Magnoac, who, in +order to abolish this distinction, passed out of the church by the +_porte des Cagots_, followed by the _cure_, and all the ecclesiastics of +the parish, and those of his own _suite_; the people, seeing this, +followed also, and since that time the doors have been used +indifferently by all classes." + +[Footnote 38: "Chroniques Eccl. du Dioc. D'Auch."] + +Although my idea may be laughed at by the learned, it has occurred to +me, that this race might be the descendants of those Goths who were +driven from Spain by the Moors, introduced by Count Julian in +consequence of the conduct of Don Roderick. + +There seems scarcely a good reason why the Goths under Alaric should +stop in the Pyrenees on their way to a safer retreat, when pursued by +the troops of Clovis, the Christian; Spain was open to them, and to +remain amongst the enemy's mountains seemed bad policy. Again, why +should Abdelrahman, after his defeat, when his discomfited people fled +before the _hammer_ of the great Charles, have paused in the Pyrenees? +Spain was their's, and surely the remnant would have sought their own +land, even if detained awhile by the snows, and not have remained a mark +of contempt and hatred in the country of their conquerors. + +But when Roderick and his Goths fled from the Moors, after the fatal +battle of Guadalete, and they remained monarchs of Spain, there was no +safety for the ruined remnant but in close concealment; and the Pyrenees +offered a safe retreat. The Christians of France, however, would not +have received them as friends, and they could not return to their own +country; therefore, they might have sheltered themselves in the gorges, +and when they appeared have been looked upon with the same horror as the +Arians of the time of Alaric, or even have been confounded by the people +with those very Moors who drove them out of Spain. + +The difficulty, which is the greatest by far, is to account for the +unceasing contempt which clung to them _after_ they became _Chrestiaas_. + +An ingenious person of Pau, who has considered the subject in all its +bearings, has a theory that the Cagots are, after all, the _earliest +Christians_, persecuted by the Romans, compelled, in the first instance, +to take shelter in rocks and caves; and, even after the whole country +became converted to Christianity, retaining their bad name from habit, +and in consequence of their own ignorance, which had cast them back into +a benighted state, and made them appear different from their +better-instructed neighbours. Their name of _Christians_ appears to have +given rise to this notion. + +I am looking forward very anxiously to a work of M. Francisque Michel, +on the subject, of the Cagots, which I hear is now in the press. His +unwearied enthusiasm and industry, and the enormous researches he has +made both in France and Spain, will, doubtless, enable him to throw some +valuable light on the curious question,[39] if not set it at rest for +ever. + +[Footnote 39: M. Francisque Michel's announced work bears the following +title: "Recherches sur les Races maudites de la France et de l'Espagne. +(Cagots des Pyrenees. Capots du Languedoc. Gahets da la Guienne. +Colliberts du Bas Poitou. Caqueux de la Bretagne. Cacous du Mans. +Marrons de l'Auvergne. Chreetas de Mayorque. Vacqueros des Asturies.)"] + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + THE CAGOT--VALLEE D'ASPE--SUPERSTITIONS--FORESTS--DESPOURRINS--THE + TWO GAVES--BEDOUS--HIGH-ROAD TO SARAGOSSA--CASCADE OF + LESCUN--URDOS--A PICTURE OF MURILLO--LA VACHE. + + +THE subject of the Cagots has occupied the attention of learned and +unlearned persons both formerly, and at the present time; and the +interest it excites is rather on the increase than otherwise; like the +mysterious question of the race and language of the Basques, it can +never fail to excite speculation and conjecture. A gentleman, who is a +professor at the college of Pau, has devoted much of his time to the +investigation of this curious secret, and has thrown his observations +together in the form of a romance, in a manner so pleasing, and so well +calculated to place the persons he wishes to describe immediately before +the mind's eye of his reader, that I think a few extracts from his story +of THE CAGOT, yet unpublished, will give the best idea of the state of +degradation and oppression in which the Cagots were forced to exist; and +exhibit in lively colours the tyranny and bigoted prejudice to which +they were victims. I avail myself, therefore, of the permission of M. +Bade, to introduce his _Cagot_ to the English reader.[40] The story thus +opens: + +[Footnote 40: Most of the scenes of the story in the Vallee d'Aspe have +become familiar to me, and I can vouch for the truth of the +descriptions.] + + +THE CAGOT. + +A BEARNAIS TALE. + +"ON a fine night in the month of June, 1386, a mounted party, +accompanied by archers and attendants on foot, were proceeding, at a +quiet pace, along the left bank of a rivulet called Lauronce, on the way +between Oloron and Aubertin. A fresh breeze had succeeded the burning +vapours which, in the scorching days of summer, sometimes transform the +valleys of Bearn into furnaces. Myriads of stars glittered, bright and +clear, like sparkles of silver, in the deep blue sky, and their +glimmering light rendered the thin veil still more transparent which the +twilight of the solstice had spread over the face of the country; while +through this shadowy haze might be seen, from point to point, on the +hills, the ruddy flame of half-extinguished fires. + +"From time to time, those who composed the cavalcade paused as it +reached higher ground, in order to contemplate the magnificent spectacle +before them and the effect produced by the doubtful and fleeting shadows +which rested on the fields, on the dark woods, and on the broken and +uncertain line in the southern horizon which indicated the summits of +the Pyrenees. The air was full of the perfume of newly-cut hay; the +leaves sent forth a trembling murmur; the cricket uttered his sharp +chirrup in the meadows; the quail's short, flute-like cry was heard, and +all in nature harmonized with the beauty of the summer night." + +The party, who are travelling at this hour in order to avoid the heats +of the day, are then introduced by the narrator as the Baron de Lescun +and his niece, Marie, an orphan confided to his care: they are on their +way to the Court of Gaston Phoebus, Count of Foix, at Orthez, who is +about to give a series of _fetes_ and tournaments: they have been +joined by a lady and her son--the Dame d'Artiguelouve (a name of old +standing in Bearn, and still existing,)--and the young _domenger_, (the +Bernais title of _Damoiseau_,) Odon, escorted by their pages and valets. +Conversation ensues between them, in which the young lady expresses some +doubts as to their prudence in choosing so witching an hour, however +beautiful the time, for their journey; when it is known that evil +spirits and sorcerers are abroad on their foul errands. + +They presently arrive on the territory of Faget, when they are startled +to observe, as if flitting near them, human forms, which glide +noiselessly along, like shades in the darkness. Some of these mysterious +beings placed themselves in a stooping position on the margin of the +streams, with their faces bent close to the water. Others, divesting +themselves of their garments, entered, with hurried and noiseless stops, +a neighbouring field of oats, and there concealed themselves. Some of +the strangers were astonished at what they saw, and could not resolve in +their own minds whether or not these were, indeed, phantoms that +appeared in their path. + +"'Midnight must be near, and the _fete_ of St. Jean is about to begin,' +said the Sire de Lescun; 'for these are the poor people who are on the +watch for the unattainable moment, when, it is thought, the water +changes into wine, and has the power of healing all their infirmities: +the dew of this night, received on the body in the fields, is also said +to be endowed with the same marvellous virtue.'" + +A confused noise now met their ears as they entered the forest of +Lorincq, and a singular spectacle was presented to them: + +"The forest, all resplendent with illuminations, seemed full of bustle +and animation. Numerous torches sparkled amongst the trees to which they +were suspended or attached; others were borne along, whirled from place +to place, their black smoke sending its long wreaths into the air, and +their red flame flashing through the gloom. A thousand voices burst +forth, as if simultaneously, from height and valley, above, around, and +underneath; an immense crowd hurried along--some mounting, some +descending--amongst the crackling branches, until the intricate alleys +and close retreats of this labyrinth of verdure were filled with human +beings. + +"The lame and wounded, the infirm and paralytic grouped themselves +around the fountains, to be ready at the right moment to plunge their +afflicted limbs in the cold waters, and then to cast in their offering +of a piece of money: some, providing for the future, busied themselves +in filling, from the beneficent source, their vases and pitchers to +overflowing; for it was firmly believed, that, in memory of the holy +baptism administered by the patron of the _fete_, Heaven had endowed the +waters with peculiar powers during that favoured night; allowing the +virtue to take effect from midnight to the rising of the sun. + +"In the humid fern might be seen cattle sent to graze at will, in the +hope of being cured of some malady, their tinkling bells indicating +where they wandered. Parties of old men, women, and children, dispersed +here and there, were eating cakes prepared for the occasion; while young +men and girls danced in circles beneath the ash and elm trees, to the +sound of the _flute of three notes_, accompanied by the nasal cadence of +the lute of six strings. + +"After halting for a considerable time, and taking their part in the +religious advantages of the _fete_, the cavalcade resumed its route; and +soon descended into the valley of the Bayse, as the sky began to be +tinged with the hue of dawn. When they arrived at the hospital of +Aubertin, the first rays of the sun were casting a golden light on the +Roman transepts of the church." + +At the moment that the Dame d'Artiguelouve and her son are alighting +from their horses, they are arrested, and impressed with a superstitious +feeling of terror, by observing a fine white courser at the door of the +church, held by a page. This was, at the period, a bad omen for the +stranger who first saw it, and boded no good to any one. + +"'I would not', said Joan Bordenabe--a peasant standing by,--'for the +castle of Artiguelouve, have met with so bad an omen, as the Ena[41] +Garsende and her noble son, who have come at once, face to face, with +that animal, covered, as it would seem by his colour, with the snows of +the Pyrenees: by our Lady of Sarrance, their future years will be as +black as he is white!' + +"'But,' replied his companion, 'if I were the knight to whom the charger +belongs, I would part with him instantly, even if, at the same time as I +drowned him, I must throw into the Gave my sword and golden spurs: don't +you see that spiteful-looking magpie, which has just started up before +him, after having chattered in his very face? What awful signs of evil +are these! and on such a morning, at the rising of the sun! * * * May +the _bon Dieu_, the Holy Virgin, and the white fairies of the +subterranean caves, who are always combing their hair at the first +glimpse of dawn, and looking into the clear mirror of the fountains, +protect that beautiful young lady, who is at this moment entering the +church. It is to be hoped she has made an ample provision of fennel to +lay under her bed's head, and in her oratory, to counteract the evil +influence of the _Brouches_!'"[42] + +[Footnote 41: En and Ena are titles of Bearnaise nobility, answering to +the Spanish Don and Dona.] + +[Footnote 42: Witches or Sorcerers of Bearn.] + +While the young lady, Marie de Lignac, enters the church to perform her +devotions, the rest of the party leave her, to join the chase of the +wild boar, which the Lord of Artiguelouve, the father of Odon, is +following, as his horns announce, in the adjacent forest. + +The Hospital of Aubertin, which still exists, is a building of the +twelfth century, and was one of many establishments depending on the +order of monks hospitalers of Sainte Christine: it served as an asylum +to the pilgrims of St. James, and as a resting-place to travellers going +and coming to and from Spain, Marie found the church filled with persons +of different professions: merchants from Arragon and Catalonia; pilgrims +adorned with palms and cockle-shells, emblems of their wandering; +shepherds in their red dresses and brown berret-caps; and wayfarers of +many sorts, waiting only for the morning to continue their journey in +various directions, and offering up their prayers previously to setting +out. Among others, she noticed particularly a young knight (un beau +caver[43]) devoutly kneeling at the foot of the altar of the Virgin, +while his archers and men-at-arms were engaged in prayer close behind +him: she judged that to him must belong the white charger at the +church-door, which had inspired the peasants with so much superstitious +terror. Nothing appeared to disturb the devotion of the knight; neither +the neighing of steeds without, nor the clatter of the hoofs of mules in +the court, as the different groups prepared to depart; nor the coming +and going of the merely curious, who were busied observing the beauty of +the edifice, the materials of which, according to popular belief, were +furnished by the Holy Virgin herself, who directed the elaborate and +beautiful ornaments of the pillars and cornices still to be seen there. + +[Footnote 43: _Caver_. Chevalier, knight.] + +The knight's costume was half civil, half military; of one sombre +colour, without blazon or distinction--a circumstance unusual at the +period: the expression of his face was grave and melancholy: he was +somewhat bronzed with the sun, otherwise his complexion was fair, and +his blue eyes were full of character and softness. + +Even the appearance of the lady does not cause the knight to cease his +prayers, and she remains looking upon him, half-divided between her duty +and a sudden feeling of admiration and involuntary esteem for which she +is unable to account, except by considering him as an apparition sent +from heaven,--when a violent noise without, accompanied by the cries of +hunters and their horns, effectually put a stop to the religious +occupation of all within the church. All hurry out, and, amongst the +rest--her orisons over--is the young lady, attended by her page. She had +scarcely left the door, and was hastening to the neighbouring hostelry, +when she saw before her, at a very short distance, surrounded by a +furious pack of hounds, who, bleeding and wounded, were yet attacking +their enemy boldly, an enormous wild boar, evidently rendered savage by +his sufferings. The beast rushed along, his white tusks gleaming +fearfully, and his hot breath already reaching the terrified girl and +her feeble protector. Marie turned back, and darted towards the open +door of the church, and in another moment might have been out of the +reach of the infuriated animal; but a stone imprudently aimed at the +boar by a peasant from the wood, sent him, foaming, exactly in the +direction she had taken. She saw there was no escape--made a bound, and +fell senseless on the threshold of the church: the boar had just reached +the spot, and one stroke of his terrible tusk had sufficed to crush the +fragile being, who lay extended before him, when a young peasant, with a +swiftness almost supernatural, interposed between her and her fate; and, +with an axe with which he was armed, discharged so well-directed a blow +on the head of the brute, that he extended him dead at his feet. + +Certainly, never had succour arrived at a time of more need; and it was +impossible to deny that the young man's intrepidity had saved the lady's +life: nevertheless, when the crowd collected around them, as Marie, +assisted by her terrified page, began to recover consciousness, and her +deliverer stood, his axe yet reeking with the blood of the animal from +whom he had saved her, and whose carcase lay recking, the skull cleft in +two,--it was with anything but applause or commendation that this act of +self-devotion was hailed by all present. + +As they cast their eyes on the coarse and ragged garb of the young man, +those nearest observed on the breast a certain piece of red cloth, cut +in the form of _a goose's foot_: a cry of horror and contempt, mingled +with surprise, accompanied this discovery, and the words--"It is a +Cagot! it is a Cagot!" rang through the assembly, and was repeated by a +hundred voices in different intonations of horror. * * * + +The object of this popular disgust was a tall, handsome, +powerfully-built youth, fair, and of fine complexion: he stood in an +easy attitude, in which the majesty of recent action was conspicuous: +his colour was heightened, and his bright eyes flashed with satisfaction +at the deed he had performed; but when he heard the rage of the people +rising, and the fatal and detested name of _Cagot_ sounded in his ears, +a far different feeling--the consciousness of his utter degradation, +which he had for a moment forgotten, returned to him with added force. +Suddenly recalled from his illusion, his head sunk mournfully on his +bosom, and he seemed at once to retire within himself, gathering all +the courage and patience of which he was capable to enable him to +endure the outrages and violence which he knew but too well awaited him. + +"'Accursed Cagot![44]--down with the accursed Cagot!' repeated a host of +confused voices. + +[Footnote 44: At the period at which this story is laid, the Cagots were +called _Chrestiaas_, but the term _Cagot_, adopted later is more +generally known in Bearn.] + +"'Death to the leprous wretch!--to the river with him!--drag him to the +river!--he has infected our fields--the holy dew is on him yet!' + +"'He has laid his infected hands on our master's goods--he has dared to +touch the game!' cried one of the huntsmen, coming up. + +"'Hound of ill omen!' thundered Odon d'Artiguelouve, dashing through all +the crowd, with his lady-mother and all his mounted attendants--'has he +dared to place his devilish claw on that which belongs to us?' + +"'He has bewitched our woods, and blighted our harvests!' exclaimed a +peasant, giving him a blow, and spitting in his face. + +"'To the flames with the sorcerer!--to the fire with the +broomstick-rider!--to the fire with the comrade of the infernal +spirits!' cried others; and one threw at him a half-burnt log of the St. +John's fire, which, striking him on the forehead, sent the unfortunate +Cagot reeling to the foot of a tree, against which he leaned for +support. + +This, and much more insult was lumped upon the unfortunate young man, +accompanied by furious howlings and execrations, which became every +moment louder: hisses, laughter, and showers of mud and stones were sent +towards him as he stood, motionless and calm; his eyes half-closed; +without uttering a groan or a word; but, apparently, resolved to endure +without shrinking the undeserved fate which pursued him. + +Every moment the crowd increased, and with it the fury of popular +hatred, until, at length, fatigued with the patience of their victim, +the people proposed at once to drag the Cagot to the river. He was, +therefore, seized, bound, and, in spite of his resistance and his +strength, they prepared to carry their threats into execution; at the +same time uttering those savage cries, known in the country as _les cris +Basques_, and imitating, in derision of the wretched creature they were +injuring, the sharp voice of the goose, and the nasal call of the duck. +The young Ena Marie, for whose sake her deliverer was thus suffering, +wept, entreated, and appealed to the senseless multitude in vain, and +implored the mercy of Odon and Dame Garsende, who treated her prayers +with indifference, and appeared to think the conduct of the mob +perfectly justifiable. But, at the moment when all hope seemed lost, the +interference of the young knight of the church prevented the execution +of the crime about to be perpetrated. + +Followed by his archers and men-at-arms, he rushed forward, and +commanded that the prisoner should be released, in a tone and with +gestures so commanding, that the astonished crowd was, for a time, +arrested in their project, and a general silence ensued, presently +broken by a voice at a distance, which exclaimed--"Noble and generous +child! the blessing of Heaven be on thee!" All eyes were directed +towards the speaker--an old man with silver hair, clothed in a dark +mantle, with the hood drawn over his head: he stood on an elevated mound +above the scene of action, and on finding himself observed hurried away +from the spot. + +Meantime, taking advantage of the awe his appearance had excited in the +public mind, the knight hastened to the poor Cagot, cut with his sword +the cords which bound him, and set him at liberty. Amazement was painted +on the victim's countenance, as he observed the relief which approached +him: to be the object of care to a noble knight--to be defended, treated +like a human creature was indeed a prodigy to him! The being, but an +instant before stupified and inert, from whom insult and injury had +drawn no cry nor tear, this evidence of humanity touched to the quick: +he cast a long look of tenderness and gratitude on his deliverer; and +large tears rolled down his bleeding cheeks. But the panic of the +instant soon passed away; hoarse murmurs arose, and threatening words, +and the tumult recommenced, Odon d'Artiguelouve advanced to the knight, +and demanded, in a haughty tone, by what right he interfered with the +execution of the laws. + +"'I am not a stranger to this country,' replied he, calmly, 'though it +is some time since I quitted it; and I know its _fors_ and _customs_ +probably as well as you can do, Messire.' + +"'Then,' answered Odon, 'you should know that a Cagot is forbidden to +appear in an assembly of citizens, and that all commerce with them is +expressly denied him; that he has no right to touch any article intended +for their use; and yet you defend this wretch, who has defiled, by the +contact of his accursed hand, the game which belongs to a gentleman.' + +"'It appears, then,' answered the knight, with bitter irony, 'that a +gentleman singularly loves his game, since he attaches more value to a +boar's head than to the life of a noble lady, which this poor Cagot +preserved at the risk of injuring one of these precious animals.' + +"'Was it for high deeds of this nature,' interposed the Lady of +Artiguelouve, seeing that her son's countenance fell, 'that the knight +took his vows, when he received the honour of the accolade?' + +"'I swore, madam,' answered the _caver_, 'to consecrate my arms to the +service of religion, and the defence of the widow, the orphan, and the +_unprotected_.' + +"'And by what enchantment,' rejoined Dame Garsende, 'does your +knight-errantship behold in us giants or monsters?' + +"'A loyal and christian knight ever sees a monster in oppression, madam. +No man can be punished before he is judged, and I see here neither jury, +court of knights, or _cour majour_.' + +"'If that is all,' cried Odon, 'every formality shall be gone through. +Seize this miserable wretch, my friends, and drag him to the +justice-seat; we will follow.'" + +An immediate movement was made to obey this order; but the knight again +interfered. + +"'It is well,' said he; 'but if you have a right to take him before a +court, he has that of claiming sanctuary. From whence come you, friend?' +he added, turning to the Cagot. + +"'From the Vallee d'Aspe, sir knight,' was the answer. + +"'Then, it would suffice to reach the Pene d'Escot, at the entrance of +this valley, to be in an inviolable security, and we would, if it were +necessary, escort you as far; but closer still a refuge attends you; you +have only to reach the _circle of sanctuary_ which yon church of +Aubertin offers.'"[45] + +[Footnote 45: By a charter of 1103, churches allowed an asylum within a +space of thirty paces in circumference. _Ecclesiae salvitatem habeant +triginta passuum circumcirca.--Marca._] + + * * * * * + +A great struggle now ensues, the Bearnais resolving to oppose the +Cagot's entrance to the sanctuary, and the knight and his followers +maintaining his attempt. The young Marie of Lignac at length forces her +way through the crowd, and laying her hand on the Cagot, demands, by +virtue of the _fors et coutumes_, that he be given up to the protection +of a noble lady who claims her right to shelter the guilty. + +This appeal was not to be treated with contempt; and the mob, perhaps +tired of the conflict, gave way with a sudden feeling of respect; while +Marie led the persecuted Cagot, surrounded by the knight's men-at-arms, +to the door of the church, where he entered, and was in safety. + + * * * * * + +The next scene of the story introduces the reader to the old knight of +Artiguelouve, and the interior of his castle,[46] where the late events +are recounted to him by his wife and son, with great bitterness; and +envy and offended pride excite the mother and son to resolutions of +vengeance, which the father, a man apparently soured with misfortune, +and saddened by some concealed sin, can only oppose by expressions of +contempt, which irritate the more. + +[Footnote 46: The castle of Artiguelouve is still standing--a curious +monument of ancient grandeur; it is situated near Sauveterre.] + +The demoiselle de Lignac, meantime, is arrived at the Castle of Orthez, +and received, as well as her uncle, with great honour by Gaston de Foix, +who proposes instituting his beautiful guest the queen of the +approaching tournament. + +The unknown knight, having left the Cagot with the monks of Aubertin, +and acted the part of the good Samaritan by his charge, is next seen +pursuing his way southward; where, in the mountains, an interview takes +place between him and his father, who is, it seems, a proscribed man. +They meet after many years of absence, during which the young knight has +won all kinds of honour, having gone to the wars under the care and +adoption of a brave champion, Messire Augerot de Domezain; who, dying of +his wounds, had recommended his young friend to the King of Castile, +from whom he receives knighthood. He learns from his father that the +holy hermit, brother of Augerot, under whoso care he was brought up, is +dead; and he further learns, that the time is nearly come when the +secret of his father's misfortunes will be revealed to him. All that the +knight, in fact, knows about himself is, that a cloud hangs over the +noble family to which he belongs, and that his father is obliged to +conceal himself to escape persecution. + +The father and son separate: the one retiring to his retreat in the +Vallee d'Aspe, the other journeying onwards to the court of Gaston +Phoebus. + +He has arrived at Orthez, and has just reached the famous _Hotel de la +Lune_, described by Froissart, when he falls into an ambush, and is +carried off by unknown enemies, and thrown into a dungeon in the ruins +of an abandoned castle, situated on a hill to the south of the Valley of +Geu, between Lagor and Sauvelade--a spot which may still be seen. Here +the unfortunate knight is left to lament and mourn, that all his hopes +of distinguishing himself in the tournament, and of again seeing the +beautiful Marie, are destroyed at once. + +The _fetes_ go on, and every thing at Orthez breathes of gaiety and +splendour; the people have their games; the Pyrrhic dances, called +_sauts Basques_, are in full force, performed by the Escualdunacs in +their parti-coloured dresses, and red sashes; the Bearnais execute their +spiral dances,[47] and sing their mountain-songs and ballads; some cast +great stones and iron bars, in which exercises is distinguished Ernauton +d'Espagne, the strong knight mentioned in Froissart as being able to +bring into the hall of Gaston an ass fully laden with fuel, and to throw +the whole on the hearth, to the great delight of all present. These +scenes give occasion to the author to introduce many of the proverbial +sayings of the people, which are curious and characteristic. Their +strictures on the dress and appearance of the knights and nobles, are +in keeping with the freedom of the habits of the day, when the +commonalty, however oppressed in some particulars, were allowed a +singular latitude of speech. + +[Footnote 47: _i.e._ lifting their partners into the air.] + +Amongst their homely sayings, occur the following:-- + + "Habillat u bastou qu', auera l'air d'u baron." + Dress up a stick, and you can give it the air of a baron. + + "Nout basques mey gran hech que non pouchques lheba:" + Do not make a larger fagot than you can lift. + + "Quabaue mey eslurras dap l'esclop que dap la lengue." + It is better to slide with _sabots_ than with the tongue. + + "Yamey nou fondes maysou aupres d'aigue ni de seignou." + Never build a house near a torrent nor a great lord. + + "Las sourcieros et lous loup-garous + Aus cures han minya capons." + + Witches and loup-garoux make priests eat fat capons, _i.e. are to + their advantage_--an adage which would seem to infer that the + search for sorcery was known to be a _job_ in all ages. + +The tournament goes on: and, to the great disappointment of the lady of +the lists, no stranger-knight appears; and her admirer, Odon, is the +victor over all others; when, just at the last moment, the trumpet of +the Unknown sounds, and he comes into the arena, and challenges the +envious knight, after defeating all the others, Dame Garsende has +recourse to a stratagem to overcome him, which fails in regard to him, +but overwhelms her son in confusion, and causes his defeat: she cuts the +cord of a canopy under which the knight has to pass, in the hope that it +will fall in his way, and encumber his advance; but he adroitly catches +it on the end of his spear, and Odon, in falling from his horse after +the knight's attack, gets entangled in the garlands and drapery, and +makes a very ridiculous figure. Of course the stranger-knight is made +happy in the chaplet placed on his brow by Marie, and the kiss of custom +by which the gift is accompanied. His rival retires, vowing vengeance. + +A grand feast then takes place; and as the guests arrive they are +severally recognised by the people. The stranger-knight, whose device is +_a branch of vine clinging to an aged tree_, is hailed with acclamation, +and a tumult of enthusiasm, consequent on his successes and his +honourable reception by Gaston Phoebus; to whom, when questioned as to +his name and family, he replies that he is called Raymond, the adopted +son of Messire Augerot de Domezain. Gaston instantly recognises in him a +knight whose valorous deeds are on record, and who saved the life of +Marie de Lignac's father, at the battle of Aljubarotta. + +Raymond produces a chain of gold, which the dying knight had charged him +to deliver to Gaston, to be sent to his daughter; and the tears and +thanks of the young lady are the reward of his accomplished mission. + +The stranger-knight is now at the height of favour: adopted by Ernauton +d'Espagne as his brother-in-arms; welcomed by the gorgeous Gaston +Phoebus; hailed by the people; and, above all, loved by Marie. He is, of +course, exposed to the evil designs of Garsende and her son, from which +he twice escapes; but they are obliged to conceal their enmity, and he +is ignorant from whence he is attacked. During a grand banquet, a +minstrel, whose verses had warned him to avoid a poisoned cup, unable to +approach him near enough to deliver a billet, gives it in charge to one +of his favourite men-at-arms, who places it in the sheath of his sword +till he can transmit it to his master. This action is observed by +Garsende; who, afterwards, taking advantage of the soldier's fondness +for the fine vintage of Jurancon, contrives to get possession of the +letter, and excites the jealousy of Marie, who imagines it written by a +woman, deceived by the expressions, "My beloved Raymond," and the +signature of "The Being dearest to your Heart," and the mysterious +rendezvous appointed, all of which is, in fact, written by his exiled +father. This plot, however, fails, through the candour and devotion of +Marie; and the knight keeps the tryst which his father had appointed at +a ruined hermitage, formerly tenanted by the preceptor of Raymond, on a +lonely hill above the Vallee d'Aspe. Here they meet; and a scene of +tenderness on the part of the son, and mystery on that of the father, +ensues; in which the latter entreats yet a little time before he +discloses certain secrets of moment, concerning the young knight, whose +successes appear to produce a strange effect on his mind, almost +amounting to regret, for which the other cannot account. When they part, +he agrees that, when he has once seen him the husband of Marie,--who, +though aware of the mystery which envelopes him, has generously granted +him her hand,--and when he knows him to be _removed from all danger_, he +will no longer withhold the information he has to give. + +They separate; but enemies have been on their track; and the father is +watched to his concealed retreat, while Raymond remains sleeping at the +foot of the altar, in the hermitage. The intention of Odon +d'Artiguelouve, who is on the spot, had been to murder him as he slept; +but the information brought him by his spies, who have watched the old +man, entirely changes his intentions. A more secure revenge is in his +power, and he returns to his castle with extraordinary satisfaction; +leaving the happy lover of Marie, and the successful victor of the +lists, to his dreams of future bliss. + +The great day arrives on which Gaston de Foix has announced a solemn +festival, to be held in honour of the Knight of the Vine-branch, and +his affianced bride, Marie de Lignac. All the nobles of the country +assemble; and, amongst them, the old "grim baron," Loup Bergund +d'Artiguelouve, and his family. Minstrels sing, music sounds, and +honours and compliments pour upon the favoured knight; and even his +rivals, to judge by their joyous countenances, have only pleasure in +their hearts. The Prince of Bearn, and his brilliant court, enter their +decorated pavilion amidst the shouts of the assembled guests; the people +are admitted to view the jousts; and Raymond advances to the foot of the +throne, and receives a paternal embrace from the courteous Gaston +Phoebus. The signal is given for the amusements to begin, when a loud +voice is heard above the trumpets and the clash of instruments: the +herald-at-arms pauses; and Odon d'Artiguelouve, who had cried, "Hold!" +stands up in his seat, and thunders forth these ominous words: + +"'Suspend the solemnities; for I behold here, on this spot, in presence +of our august assembly, one of those impure beings on whom the sun +shines with disgust,--who excite horror in heaven and on earth,--whose +breath poisons the air we breathe,--whose hand pollutes all it touches. +Hold! for, I tell you, there is a Cagot amongst us!'" + +As he spoke, he pointed with a frantic gesture of malevolence towards an +aged man, wrapped in a large, dark, woollen cloak, who was vainly +endeavouring to conceal himself in the crowd. + +A cry of horror and indignation burst from all sides: all shrunk back +from the profane object indicated; leaving a space around him. A deadly +paleness, the effect of amazement and consternation, passed over the +face of Raymond; for, in the person of the accused, he recognised--his +father! + +Raymond almost instantly, however, recovers from the effect of this +terrific announcement; and springing forward, and placing himself before +the old man, cried out, in a loud and firm voice: + +"'He who dares make such an assertion has lied!' + +"'How! exclaimed Odon d'Artignelouve; 'dost thou give me the lie? Here +is my gage of battle: let him take it up who will.' And, throwing his +glove into the midst of the assembly, he continued: + +"'I, Odon d'Artiguelouve, to all gentlemen present and to come--knights +and nobles--offer to maintain my words, with sword, or battle-axe, or +lance, against all who shall have the boldness to deny that yonder old +man, wrapped in a dark mantle, now before us, has dared to trample under +foot our laws and ordinances, and sully by his impure presence our noble +assembly; for he is no other than a vile Cagot, leprous and infected, +belonging to the Cagoterie of Lurbe, hid, like a nest of snakes, amongst +the rocks of Mount Binet, at the entrance of the Vallee d'Aspe.'" + +A shudder of horror ran through the crowd as these words were uttered. + +"'And I,' cried the knight, in a voice of furious indignation--'I, +Raymond, the adopted son of Augerot de Domezain,--whose real name will, +I trust, one day appear,--in virtue of my privileges, my title, and my +oath, protest, in defiance of thy rank, thy strength, and thy youth; in +despite of thy sword, thy lance, and thy battle-axe,--I protest, in the +face of God and the men who hear me, that, from the crown of thy head to +the sole of thy foot, thou art an infamous and perjured impostor,--a +traitor as black as hell can make thee,--and that thou hast lied in thy +throat. My arm and my sword are ready to engrave upon thy body, in +characters of blood, the truth of my words!'" + +The tone of energetic conviction with which Raymond spoke, his bold and +martial bearing, the flash of his eye, and the indignant rage of his +manner, impressed his hearers as they listened, and a murmur of applause +followed his exclamation. Marie, pale as death, sat like a statue of +marble; her hands clasped, her breath suspended, and her eyes fixed +wildly on the trembling old man,--the object of all attention. + +Odon was about to reply, when Count Gaston, with a heightened colour and +an excited air, rose and spoke: + +"We are," he said, "deeply displeased that such a discussion should have +disturbed the peace of our assembly. You are not ignorant, Sir Raymond, +that our laws accord to all men of Bearn the right of combat against the +aggressor who has outraged him by the injurious epithets of false and +traitor. And you, Sir Odon, remember that here, as in the _Cour Majour_, +we owe justice to all,--to the weak as well as the strong; and that, +before judgment, proof is necessary." + + * * * * * + +The old man is now required by Odon to stand forth and answer in full +assembly whether he is not called Guilhem, whether he is not a Cagot, +and whether he is not a member of the Cagoterie of Lurbe. + +A profound silence ensues in the assembly; all, in breathless anxiety, +await the answer of the accused, who stands hesitating and apparently +unable to utter a word; at length, with an effort, and in a hoarse and +trembling voice, he falters from beneath the thick hood which he had +drawn over his face, "Heaven has so decreed it--Alas! it is a fatal +truth!" Now comes the triumph of the rival of the unfortunate knight; he +starts up, wild and fierce, exultation trembling on his envenomed +tongue: + +"Bearnais!" cried he; "listen to me! If this man, who has dared to call +me false and traitor, were a knight, as he calls himself, or a noble, +like me, he would, by our laws, be entitled to claim the right of duel, +to which he had provoked me, on foot or on horseback, armed at all +points; or, were he a man belonging to the people, I being a gentleman, +he could oppose me with a shield and a club; or were we both equally +peasants, we could fight, each armed according to our rank. But, were I +ten times the aggressor, and he the offended party, all combat between +him and me is impossible, for he is beneath the knight, the noble, the +citizen, the serf, the labourer; beneath the lowest degree in the scale +of humanity--beneath the beasts themselves; he is a vile Gesitain, a dog +of a leper, an infamous and degraded Cagot, and yonder stands his +father!" + + * * * * * + +Horror takes possession of all--knight, lady, prince, and people. In +vain the unfortunate Guilhem, throwing back his cowl and imploring to be +heard, proclaims aloud that he is not the father of the noble knight; +that Raymond does not belong to their unhappy race, and calls the +Redeemer to witness that he speaks the truth; he is treated with scorn +and contempt, and the popular fury rises at the disavowal. + +Gaston Phoebus commands silence, and calls upon the knight to disprove +the fact alleged, and confirm the hope he entertains; but Raymond has no +words but these: + +"No, noble Prince; I have no power to speak other than the truth; and +were the torments I endure ten times heavier, I have only to +confess--this is, indeed, my father." + +Marie, as he spoke, uttered a wild shriek, and fell senseless to the +ground; a yell burst from the crowd, joy and triumph glowed on the +countenances of Odon and his mother, and Gaston Phoebus cast himself +back in his seat, and covered his face with his robe. + +"'Go, Cagot!' roared the pitiless Odon; 'who now is a false traitor, who +now has lied, and proved himself a vile impostor? Away with thy helmet, +thy sword, and thy spurs; away with all the armour of the craven! Let +the herald at arms degrade thee before the world! Where is now thy name, +thy titles, thy prerogatives? where are thy fiefs and thy domains? Thy +name is _Cagot_, thy possessions leprosy, and every foul disease--every +impurity of soul and body; thy castle is a mud hut in the Cagoterie of +Lurbe, and this is thy blazon!'" + +As he spoke he raised his arm in the air, and, with the frantic force of +hate, dashed in the face of the distracted Raymond a piece of red cloth +cut into the form of a _goose's foot_. + +At the sight of this emblem the populace rose with fury, and rushed in a +body, with savage cries, on the unfortunate pair. + + * * * * * + +A scene of horror now takes place; Raymond is deserted by all his +people but one, his favourite man-at-arms, and the generous Arnauton, +who will not quit his adopted brother even in such degradation; together +they stand against the mob, whose rage the Prince himself is unable to +restrain. Odon leads them on; the poor old man is with difficulty +rescued from their grasp by the determined valour of his defenders, who +are, however, too few to contend against their foes, and Odon is on the +point of attaining the object of his wishes, and beholding the heart's +blood of his rival--when assistance comes in the shape of the young +Cagot who had saved the life of Ena Marie. At the moment when the blow +is falling, and Raymond has no chance of escape, he darts forward, and, +seizing Odon in his powerful grasp, drags him to the bridge of the Gave, +which is thrown over the torrent, where a mill-wheel is working. There a +fearful struggle goes on, which is closed by both combatants being +precipitated into the stream, to reappear crushed and mangled by the +mighty engine under which they fell. + +The bravo young Cagot casts one dying look, full of tenderness and +gratitude, towards those who watch his end with pity and despair, and +all is over. + + * * * * * + +On the evening of that fatal day, Guilhem and Raymond, both exhausted +and overcome with grief and fatigue, rest themselves in a miserable hut, +far away amongst the rocks, in one of the steepest and wildest gorges +of Mont Binet. It was one of the accursed and abhorred dwellings of the +Cagot village of Lurbe. + +The night was black and fearful: a tempest raged in all its terrors +without, and occasional gusts of wind and rain penetrated the wretched +retreat where the unfortunate fugitives sat, their vestments torn, and +their bodies as severely wounded as their minds. Several Cagots, both +male and female, from other cabins near, hovered round them, tenderly +administering to their wants, and preparing such balms to heal their +wounds as their simple knowledge afforded. They accompanied these +friendly offices with tears and passionate gesticulations, accompanied +by half inarticulate exclamations, such as savages, unused to speech, +might do in a strange unvisited land. + +"'It is, then, true, my father,' said Raymond, as he looked round on +these beings, ill-clothed, poor, degraded by oppression and contempt, +scarcely endowed with common intelligence, and miserable to regard--'It +is, then, true, that you are a Cagot, and that these are my brothers and +my equals? Ah! why did you let me wander into a world which I ought +never to have known? Why did you not let me live and die a Cagot as I +was born? These, then, are Cagots!' + +"'Yes,' cried Guilhem, weeping bitterly; 'Yes, we are Cagots, and all +men are our persecutors; and yet, when one of _their_ children falls +into our hands, we do not ill-use it, we do not torture it, we do not +crush it beneath the wheels of a mill; we do good for evil, and they +repay us by evil alone! Ah! I am as if bound on a flaming pile, my tears +are like molten lead on my cheeks. I!--a wretched, vile Cagot!--I should +die with pity if I saw one of my executioners in the state to which they +have reduced me!' + +"'My father, my dear father, calm yourself,' said Raymond, with tender +affection; 'your son, at least, is left you.' + +"'No, no,' cried the old man, passionately;'my son is not left me; my +son is dead; he was torn in pieces by the mill-wheel of Orthez. I am not +your father; you are not--you never were, you never can be--my son; +this is the first word of the secret I have to tell you.' + +"'What do you tell me!' cried Raymond, in amazement! 'Your disavowal was +not, then, a deception, prompted by paternal affection! What! are you +not my father? and was that generous creature, sacrificed for my sake, +indeed your son!' + +"'He was my child, my only child! the only living being attached to me +by the ties of blood--the only creature who would have listened to my +last agonized sigh at my hour of death. And see what was his fate, for +me! I allowed him to venture for my sake amongst the ferocious people; +see to what an end his devotion and gratitude to you had led him!' So +saying, the unfortunate old man uncovered the mutilated remains of his +unfortunate son, rescued from the stream, and transported to the spot by +the compassionate care of Arnauton d'Espaigne. The body lay on a rustic +couch, enveloped in a white shroud, which is always, according to the +usage of the country, prepared long before death, a taper of yellow wax +shed its feeble rays on the corpse'." + +The grief and lamentations of Guilhem are interrupted by the rites which +then take place; the men wringing their hands, and gesticulating, and +cursing the cruelty of the world: the women weeping and wailing; and one +of those endowed with poetical powers, improvising a lament over the +body, uttering her words in a melancholy cadence, deeply expressive of +the grief of all. + +"'Alas, Gratien!' she moaned; 'thou hast then left us! thou hast +deserted thy aged father--gone without a pressure of the hand! Gratien, +may God receive thy soul! To live is to suffer. Life is like the wheel +by which thou wert torn. Thou wert in the right to fly it. Happy child! +thou art gone to a place where there are no Cagots, no men to persecute +thee; thou wilt know now who were the ancestors from whom we descend. +Thou hast no more use for the pruning-knife and the infamous axe. No +more toil nor suffering await thee; no more contempt nor outrage! +Accursed be the wheel, oh, Gratien, which crushed thee! never may the +torrent wash out thy blood which stains it; let it turn for ever red and +bloody! No bell tolled for thy soul; but the thunder and the wind, oh, +Gratien! Toll louder still--no bell for the Cagot! But Heaven weeps with +us, the trees groan with us. Old man! thou dost not weep alone. Adieu, +dear Gratien, thy body is returned to thy cabin; but thy soul, escaped +the demon, is fled on a beam of the moon to the great house of heaven! +Yes, he cries--I am in heaven; I am telling the Cagots, our ancestors, +that their children are still in suffering!'" + + * * * * * + +Guilhem, comforted by the tenderness of Raymond, recovers in some +degree his self-possession, and proceeds to relate to the young knight +the manner of his falling, when an infant, into his charge. The +narrative is as follows:-- + +"'In 1360, twenty-six years ago, when I was myself thirty-nine years of +age, the event happened which I have now to tell you. I was a Cagot from +my birth, by my parents and my ancestors--a proscribed outcast of unkind +nature, like these you see around--poor, ignorant, timid, and a mark for +insult and contempt. I had already suffered much; for God, alas! had +given me a heart formed to feel and to love; yet long habits of +endurance had, in great measure, rendered it callous and insensible, +unaided as I was by intellectual culture. + +"'I married a woman of my race; but, after a year, she died, leaving me +in lonely widowed sorrow, with one child. Alas! he has just rejoined his +mother, and rude is the journey which has conducted him to her! + +"'At this period, as you know, and as I afterwards learnt from the mouth +of your venerable preceptor, the holy hermit, all France was overrun +with bands of marauders and robbers of every nation, called the +_late-comers_.[48] Bearn was no more free from them than other parts of +the kingdom. One day, I was returning from Oloron, my heart more sad +than usual,--cursing men and life, for I had been the object of new +injuries,--when a chief of one of these predatory bands suddenly +presented himself before me; and, addressing me, said: 'Good man, will +you do a kind action? Take this infant, abandoned to my men-at-arms by +an unfaithful servant. I have saved it from their inhumanity: it has +that about it which will pay your trouble.' I saw that he held in his +arms a child, who was weeping bitterly; when I looked on its lovely +face--round, innocent, and rosy--my heart was touched, and I accepted +the charge. + +[Footnote 48: Tard-venus.] + +"'Alas! the sweet creature knew not that it had fallen into the hands of +a Cagot; for no sooner had I received it on my bosom, than it ceased +crying; and, so far from showing repugnance to one about to become its +father, its hands were stretched towards me, and it smiled in my face. +My dear Raymond, thou wert this infant sent by Providence to my care.'" + + * * * * * + +The old man then relates his bringing home the child; employing a goat +to nourish it; and at length confiding it to the charge and instruction +of the hermit of Eysus, the only being whose religion or charity allowed +him to listen to the confession of the Cagot. While Raymond, however, +was yet an infant, and but a short time after Guilhem had received him, +the latter was, one day, returning from an expedition to the town, where +the wants of his family obliged him to resort, and passed by the ruins +of the old tower (the very place in which Raymond afterwards became a +prisoner, and was rescued, by the fortunate familiarity of Guilhem with +the spot, in time to appear at the tournament). + +"'I had,' said he, 'taken from my dress the ignominious mark of my +degradation; and, in full security, was gathering at my leisure some +herbs destined for your use, when it so happened that some shepherds of +the Vallee d'Aspe observed and at once recognised me; and their usual +superstition acting on them at the supposed ill-omen of meeting a Cagot +picking herbs, they attacked me with one accord, and commenced pelting +me with stones, and using every epithet of opprobrium. I was struck to +the earth; then they dragged me to the entrance of a sort of inclined +cavern, called in the country 'The Den of the Witches'[49]. With coarse +jests they thrust me through the opening, exclaiming that, as the evil +spirits raised tempests when stones were thrown in there, perhaps they +would be appeased by receiving the body of a Cagot. + +[Footnote 49: Tutte de las bronchos.] + +"'I fell to some distance, rolling along the declivity; and my body +stopped at the bottom on the damp earth. When I had a little recovered, +I prepared to attempt an escape, as I heard that my tormentors had +departed; but, on reaching the opening, I found a barrier which I had +not looked for: these wretched men had lighted a fire of weeds and +brushwood at the mouth of the cave. The flames raged violently, excited +by the current of air from within, and I soon felt the effect; sparks +and pieces of burning timber fell in; and my wounded body was soon a +prey to a scorching shower which poured down upon me. + +"'A greater fire rose within my soul,--my injuries had driven me to +despair; my brain reeled, and the torments of hell seemed within me and +around. Hatred and bitter vengeance rose boiling from my heart; and I +cursed all human nature,--invoking ruin and destruction on mankind, from +whom I had never known pity, I raved in my burning prison, and gave +myself up to fury and despair, when Heaven took compassion on my misery. +A lighted brand which fell from above disclosed, by the vivid flash it +cast through the gloom, an opening at the other end; and I clearly +distinguished a covered way, evidently made by human hands, which seemed +to run along to some distance before me. I retreated into its shelter, +and my heart revived once more. + +"'I advanced some little way and reposed myself, when, suddenly, I +thought I could distinguish in the distance vague and interrupted +sounds. A shudder came over me; and at first I dreaded to move; but, at +length, I forced myself to do so; and, gathering up one of the lighted +brands, I yielded to my curiosity, and proceeded forward. + +"'Presently the sounds became more distinct; and I could not mistake the +voice of wailing and lamentation, which found an echo in my own heart +and awakened its sympathies. I continued my way cautiously; and, after a +few minutes, found myself at an opening, formed in a shelving position, +in the manner of a loop-hole, closed with two flagstones, not so near +but that a space was left wide enough for me to see into a vaulted +chamber beyond, which at the moment was lighted by a torch. + +"'A young and beautiful woman was seated on the ground, in an attitude +of profound grief, leaning against the wall opposite. A man of high +stature, and who might be about my own age, stood at a little distance, +and looked towards her with a ferocious and menacing air, in which there +was, nevertheless, an appearance of what might be thought shame, for the +glance was oblique, as if he avoided meeting her eye. The light fell +full upon his face, which was so remarkable in its expression, that I +could not detach my regard from him, and his features remain deeply +graven on my memory. + +"'You are, then, obstinately resolved to drive me to extremity,' said +he, 'and will not consent to my demand?' + +"'What?' answered the lady, in a voice of grief, but full of energy, +'shall I despoil my son of his rights and his inheritance without +knowing that he is dead, and that in favour of my most cruel enemies? +No! he may yet live--Providence may yet watch over him--restore him one +day to the world, when he will come to claim his own and revenge his +mother's wrongs!' + +"'You have no alternative but a fearful death, remember!' said the man, +in hoarse accents. + +"'Rather any death than abandon my child!' was the answer. + +"'Then, madam,' returned her companion, 'your will shall be done--impute +your fate to your own conduct.' + +"As he pronounced these words, he approached the door of the dungeon, +where stood another female in the shade, who contemplated the scene in +silence, with an unmoved and chilling aspect. They then left the place +together, fastening the heavy door carefully, while the sound of their +keys and chains sent a fearful echo through the vaulted apartment. Their +victim fell back in a state of desolation, pitiable to behold, and burst +into passionate tears, praying fervently to Heaven, and uttering +exclamations which might melt the stoutest heart.' + +"'I was deeply moved to behold her; and, in a low voice, ventured to +exclaim: 'Madam, be of good cheer! Heaven hears you; and has sent one +to your aid who is ready to exert every effort, for your relief.' + +"'What voice is that?' cried she, starting. + +"'Be not terrified!' I answered; 'it is that of a mortal, guided hither +by the hand of God!' + +"'At the same time I applied myself to loosen the stones at the +loop-hole, and with much difficulty succeeded in doing so; but, in spite +of all my precautions, the unfortunate lady, bewildered with fear and +grief, was so astonished when I appeared through the opening, that she +uttered a cry and fainted on the ground. + +"'Without losing a moment, I took her in my arms, and carried her +through to the subterranean way. I then replaced the stones as closely +as I could, and hastened to bear her to the mouth of the cave, which I +now found without obstacle, the fire extinct, and nothing to impede our +progress. + +"'Oh, Raymond! the ways of Providence are inscrutable! This dungeon, +from whence I had rescued that innocent victim, is the same where, a few +days since, you were thrown by the hands of enemies; and the lady who +had nearly perished there was--your mother!' + +"'Great Heaven!' exclaimed Raymond, 'my mother! condemned to such +horrors--buried in the earth alive;--oh! to find the author of her +injuries!' + +"'I saw that person this very day,' replied Guilhem; 'I recognised him +in the old man who was seated on the right of your rival.' + +"'That was his father, the lord of Artiguelouve,' cried Raymond. + +"'Then it was no other than the lord of Artiguelouve who was your +mother's persecutor.'" + + * * * * * + +The Cagot now goes on to relate, that, on bringing the unfortunate lady +to this village, she recognised, in the infant he had adopted, her own +son. She recounted, that those persons whom he had seen in her dungeon +had plotted to remove both her and the infant, as their existence +interfered with certain plans of their own. One of her servants had been +bribed, who, under pretence of bearing the child to a place of safety, +and the better to deceive her, having taken with it jewels of value, had +feigned to be set upon by robbers, and had her son forcibly torn from +him. Three months afterwards, the man, overcome with remorse and +wretchedness for his crime, fell sick, and, on his death-bed, desired +secretly to see the mother, who wept for her infant as dead; to whom he +related the truth. This information was fatal to herself; for her +enemies now threw off the mask, and insisted on her renouncing for her +son all claim to the estates and titles of which he was the heir; which +she having refused to do, they treated her in the manner that has been +related. + +A mystery still hung over the revelations of the lady, who named no +persons in her story, and who appeared to dread to make further +disclosures; and, above all, she desired that no vengeance should be +taken on the authors of her grief. + +"'There are crimes,' she said, 'which recoil on those who perpetrate +them: he who sows vengeance, reaps not peace: and I would that my son +should feel that mercy is the highest attribute of humanity. Keep, +therefore, the secret of his birth from him, and let him know only +tranquillity and joy.'" + +The Cagot promised to comply with her christian desire, and, together +with the pious hermit of Eysus, to bring up her son in piety, and +ignorance of his station, until he should be one day safe from the +danger of his enemies. The unfortunate mother left a letter, addressed +to the Sire de Lescun--a friend on whom she could rely--which, on some +future occasion, was to be delivered to him; but the long absence of the +Knight of Lescun, in the wars, had hitherto prevented its being done. + +Whether the mother of Raymond would have continued in the same +intentions, cannot be known; for grief and sickness soon brought her to +the close of her sad career. When she was dying, the poor man who had +succoured her and her child, conceiving that he was not acting according +to his conscience, in withholding from her the exact situation in which +he was himself placed, threw himself on his knees at her bed-side, and +with tears entreated her forgiveness, for that he had the misfortune to +be _a Cagot_. + +"'Have pity upon me,' said he, 'that I thus add to the weight of sorrow +which you carry with you to the tomb.'" + +Instead of the start of abhorrent contempt which the persecuted man +dreaded, she turned upon him a look of the most ineffable benevolence; +and, placing her cold hand upon his head, uttered these words:-- + +"'It is well;--Cagot since thou art, I bless thee; for thy heart is more +noble than the proudest blazon could make it.' + +"No human description can convey an idea of the impression made on the +heart of the good man by these few words,--the first of pity and +consolation he had ever heard addressed to one of his own fated race. A +new life, a new being seemed given him as he heard them; and, from that +instant, he vowed to exist only for the salvation of the being left +behind by the angel who had shed her benediction upon him. She died, and +he kept his word." + + * * * * * + +The supreme tribunal of Bearn, the _Cour Majour_, was assembled at +Orthez, in one of the grand saloons of the castle of Moncade, to +dispense to the people, by its irrevocable decrees, the national justice +of its celebrated _Fors_. Great excitement prevailed; for it was known +that the Knight-Cagot, or Cagot-Knight, as Raymond was called, was +about to appear, to defend himself from his accusers. + +"The Lord and Lady of Artiguelouve were present in the great assembly, +summoned to appear for their deceased son, to support the charge he had +made. The fair Marie de Lignac sat pale and agitated, supported by her +uncle, the Knight of Lescun. The Bishops of Lescar and Oloron, the +eleven judges,[50] and all the nobles of the country attended, and were +seated on elevated benches, in due order, near Prince Gaston de Foix." + +[Footnote 50: The number of twelve was reduced to eleven since the +period that the village of Bidous was removed from the territorial +jurisdiction of Bearn.] + +After a consultation of some length, these _equitable_ magistrates had +decided that justice should be allowed to the complainant, and +punishment awarded to those who had injured him, provided that he could +prove that he was _a man_ and not _a Cagot_. + +Nothing now remains for Raymond but the presentation of his mother's +letter, and all the proofs which establish his birth. On opening the +paper, and on examining the embroidery on the mantles which wrapped the +rescued infant; on looking at the initials of the chain of gold, the +Knight of Lescun recognised the son of his cousin, Marguerite +d'Amendaritz, first wife of Messire Loup Bergund, who, when he hears the +truth, is seized with sudden remorse and amazement, and, being now +without an heir, is not sorry to recover him whom he had before +abandoned to destruction. In spite, therefore, of the indignation of his +wife--and her endeavours to repress his agitation throughout the +scene--he starts up, and proclaims himself the father of Raymond: who, +he declares aloud, is his long-lost son,--stolen from him by +_routiers_--whose loss had cost him the life of a beloved wife, whom he +deplored. + +The result is, however, far different to his expectations, or that of +all present. The young knight, on finding that he is the son of a man so +laden with crime as Loup Bergund, is seized with a frenzy of contempt +and disgust. + +"His open and expansive forehead became contracted with horror--he stood +silent a few seconds, petrified and overwhelmed with his emotions--his +body shrinking back in an attitude of repulsion and dislike, as if a +venomous reptile were before his sight. His regard then fell full on +Loup Bergund, and the terrible severity of its expression made the +unworthy tyrant shrink beneath his glance of fire. + +"_You_ my father!"--exclaimed he, at length, in a terrible voice--"do +_you_ open your arms to me as to your son? Hence!--back! there is +nothing in common between us--we can be nothing to each other! I know +you not. Go--say to your captive of yonder dungeon that her son is dead; +that the _routiers_ have stolen him: you my father! no; you have no +son--it is a falsehood--you are a great lord, and I a wretched +foundling--a being without a name--one disdained by wolves and robbers. +No; you are not my father. I have no other but he who stands beside me; +I am the son of no other than the poor Cagot." + +As he spoke, Raymond dashed the chain of gold on the ground, and +trampled it under his feet--he seized his mother's letter from the hands +of the Knight of Lescun, and thrusting it into the flame of a torch hard +by, burnt it to ashes; then, throwing himself into the arms of Guilhem, +he burst into a passion of tears. Recovering himself, however, in a few +moments--while all looked on silent and aghast--he cried aloud-- + +"'And now I am, indeed, a Cagot--irrevocably so--and it is my glory and +my joy! But hear me all! while I proclaim what you are worth, and those +whom you dare to despise, and for whom the Redeemer died, as well as for +us all: You are decked in gold and gorgeous raiment, and they are in +rags; but they have hearts which beat beneath, and you have souls of +ice: you are their executioners, and they are martyrs. You cast your +wives and children into the dungeons of your castles, from whence the +poor Cagots save them: you are great upon the earth, but they will be +great in Heaven!" + +These last words fell, like thunder, upon the ears of all, but most on +those of Gaston Phoebus--who thought of his murdered son--and writhed +with agony. Raymond continued: + +"'God will yet do justice, in his time, to the oppressors of the +innocent. Your names, in future ages, will be execrated. Meantime, keep +your pomp, your pleasures, your grandeur, and your luxury; while our +possessions are opprobrium and contempt, shame, banishment, and +suffering--days without sun, and nights without repose or shelter. Yes, +drive us from you--you know that we are infectious, that we shall +contaminate your purity--Away! Room, room for the Cagots!'" + +And Raymond and Guilhem retired through the crowd, which shrunk back, +appalled, to let them pass. + +The next day Marie de Lignac received a letter, the contents of which +were never seen but by her tear-dimmed eyes; nor ever re-read by her +after she entered the convent of Marciniac. + +The Lord of Artiguelouve, on his death-bed, was a prey to the most +bitter repentance: he implored that some priest of more than common +sanctity should hear his last confession; and one was discovered in a +holy hermit, who, when he was summoned from his retreat, was found +kneeling beside a humble tomb, where he passed all his days in prayer, +with rigorous fasting and unwearied penance. He obeyed the call of the +expiring sinner, and received his last sigh. Thus did the repentant Lord +of Artiguelouve meet the forgiveness of his son, Raymond: for it was he +that closed his eyes with a blessing, and then returned to his hermitage +to weep by the tomb of his father, the Cagot. + + * * * * * + +I am indebted to M. Baron du Taya's (of Rennes) learned researches and +obliging kindness for a few particulars respecting the Cacous of +Brittany. + +It is thought there that this proscribed race are the descendants of +_leprous Jews_, which would at once account for the detestation in which +they continued to be held, but for the term _"Chrestaas"_ applied to +them, which destroys that supposition: again, it is said that they are +descended from original _lepers_, and that diseases are inherent in +their blood--though not leprosy, it may be epilepsy: for this reason, +the _rope-makers_ of Ploermel were held in abhorrence, and are even now +shunned: they are irritated when the term _caqueux_ is applied to them, +but it is common to call them _Malandrins_--a word of opprobrium, only +less shocking to their ears. They had always their separate +burial-ground and chapel; and, till the revolution of 1789, the +prejudice existed against them: even now it is not entirely extinct. + +Rope-makers, coopers, and _tailors_ are still held in a certain degree +of contempt in Brittany, as those of these trades were formerly all +looked upon as Cacous. + +The Cacous of St. Malo met with some compassion from Duke Francis II., +the father of Anne of Brittany; and also in the time of Francis I., King +of France, ordinances were made in their favour; but they were not so +fortunate as their brethren of Rome, who, in the sixteenth century, are +said to have sold, in one Holy week, rope to the amount of two thousand +crowns, to make _disciplines_. + +In 1681, a law was passed to this effect; "Seeing that there are no +longer any Leprous, _Ladres_, or _Caquins_ at Kerroch, parish of St. +Caradec d'Hennebon, there is in future to be no distinction made in the +inhabitants of this village--who formerly had their burial-ground and +chapel apart--and all shall be admitted to the benefit of parish +assistance during their lives, and buried in the church after their +death. For it is considered that it _was ill and abusively_ ordained by +the Bishop of Vannes, in 1633, that the wives of the said inhabitants +should not be purified, except in their own chapels; for it is well +ascertained that no native of the said village of Kerroch has ever been +afflicted with leprosy." + +Notwithstanding this sensible and humane act, the people of Kerroch are +not free from the absurd suspicion even yet. + +"It would appear," observes M. Baron du Taya, "that the Cacous were +first a subdivision of lepers, and afterwards, by hereditary +_remembrance_ of them, the latter were always the objects of +commiseration amongst the professors of religion and chivalry. Thus the +first Grand Master of St. Lazare was himself a leper. Several great +names occur amongst these Grand Masters: such as Jean de Paris, in 1300; +a Bourbon in 1521; and, under Henri IV., a Philibert de Nerestang." + +In 1436 a prohibition was issued against the _Cacosi_ receiving the kiss +of peace, and the kiss of the monks, _before men who were whole_; it was +not denied them, but they were to be _the last_. + +In many places in Brittany the rope-makers work out of the towns near +those places where lazar-houses were once established. They were not +authorized to place their benches in the lower part of the church at +Pontivy till after the revolution in 1789! The villagers still look upon +certain rope-makers, tailors, and coopers, as possessing _an evil eye_, +and are in the habit of concealing their _thumbs_ under the rest of +their fingers,[51] and pronouncing the word _argaret_ as a +counter-spell: this word is unintelligible even to the Bas-Bretons +themselves. The prejudice still exists in Finisterre against the Cacous: +the village of Lannistin is one of their abodes. The Cagot girls of +Bearn are said never to be able to draw water from a brook or well +without spilling half of it: so that their houses are always dirty, and +themselves thirsty. Probably the same misfortune exists in Brittany, for +there is little cleanliness to be found there. + +[Footnote 51: This practice is similar to that of the Neapolitans, who +wear a little hand in coral (_gettatura_) as a preservative against the +evil eye.] + +Perhaps, after all, the most probable conjecture as to the origin of +these unhappy Cagots is, that they were persons _suspected of +witchcraft_, and banished in the first instance from society, to which +traditional prejudice prevented their return; and, though the cause of +their banishment was no longer remembered, the abhorrence they had once +inspired did not wear out with ages. The supposition of their having +been _the first Christians_, persecuted and contemned, and never +regaining the world's good opinion, seems a notion difficult to adopt, +except that the first Christians were suspected of sorcery and +communication with evil spirits. "He casteth out devils through +Beelzebub, the chief of the devils." If such were, indeed, the case, +what a lesson for prejudice and superstition, that the descendants of +the earliest converts should be persecuted by their Christian brethren! + +The Vallee d'Aspe, where the scene of the preceding story is laid, is +one of the most picturesque of Bearn, and the customs of its people +remarkable. + +The Pic d'Anie, whose solemn height rises above the village of Lescun, +is regarded by the Aspois as the sojourn of a malignant deity. From +thence come the fearful storms which desolate the country, and no +inhabitant of the village will dare to climb the ascent: it is looked +upon as a piece of presumption to attempt it; for it is believed that +the Jin of the mountain, called the Yona Gorri, or flame-coloured +spirit, has there fixed his solitary abode, and has his garden on the +summit, which he will not allow to be visited by strangers. Certain evil +spirits have occasionally been seen in his company, each holding a +lighted torch and dressed in shining scarlet habiliments: they thus +surround the chief, and dance round him to the music of an unearthly +instrument, like a drum. Loups-garoux, and sorcerers mounted on dragons +and other animals, may be seen in the air, wending their way towards +Anic, as far as from Jurancon, Gan, and St. Faust. + +At Escout is a fairy oak, beneath which, whoever places an empty vase, +having belief, will find it, after a short period, when he returns, full +of gold and silver: there are known to exist persons in the Vallee +d'Aspe whose fortune had no other source. + +There is a famous rock at the entrance of the valley, the object of +attraction to all females who desire to become mothers. Many of the +superstitions are similar to those in the Landes where the belief in the +power of the demon is generally received. The _Homme Noir_--a fearful +spirit with large black wings--may frequently be seen perched on the +summit of the highest peaks, shaking from his pinions showers of hail, +which break the early flowers and crush the rising corn. + +There are persons, even now--though they are rarer than in the time of +that acute discoverer, De Lancre--who are believed to deserve the name +of _Poudoueros, Hantaumos, Brouchos, Mahoumos_, for they are votaries +of the evil one, and many spells are requisite to avoid their "witch +knots," and "combs of care," &c. + +Presages can be drawn from the croak of a magpie, from the rush of +waters, and the howling of dogs. If a flower is seen to expand on a +barren rock, or in a place where there is no other vegetation, it is +looked upon as an augury of an abundant harvest throughout the country. +But if a tree spreads its branches over the roof of a house it announces +all sorts of misfortunes: the sons of that house will perish in a +foreign land: the lovers of those daughters will be faithless: the +parents will be abandoned by their children, and die in aged +destitution. + +If a single rose is left + + "----Blooming alone, + Its lovely companions all faded and gone;" + +and if it grows with its beautiful head inclined towards a cottage, woe +to the inhabitant; he has but a brief space of existence left him! Let +every one beware of insulting the fountains; for if a stone or any +rubbish is thrown into their waters, the person doing so will perish by +thunder! + +At the entrance of the Vallee d'Aspe, on the Spanish side, is St. +Christine, where formerly stood one of those _hopitaux des ports_, +erected by benevolence for the safety of pilgrims and travellers. This +was called, in a bull of Innocent III., _one of the three hospitals of +the world_; but it has been long since destroyed. + +The forests of Itseaux, Gabas, Benou, and Irati, were formerly the most +considerable in this part of the Pyrenees: that of St. Engrace is still +very extensive. About a century ago the forest of Itseaux was so thick, +and so little known in its vast extent, that more than one person was +lost in its depths. A singular circumstance occurred at that period, +which may give an idea of the perfection of its solitude. A young girl +of about sixteen or seventeen was found there in a savage state: she had +been a denizen of the shades from the age of seven or eight. All that +was known of her was, that she had been left by some other little girls +in the woods, having been surprised by the snow. The shepherds who found +her conducted her to the hospital of Mauleon: she never spoke, nor gave +any sign of recollecting the past; they gave her grass and vegetables to +eat, but she continued to droop, and in a very short time died of grief +for the loss of her liberty. + +About twenty years after this a wild man was observed in the same +forest: he was very tall, and strongly built, hairy like a bear, active +as an izard, and perfectly harmless. His delight was in coursing the +sheep and dispersing them, uttering loud peals of laughter at the +confusion he created. Sometimes the shepherds sent their dogs after +him, but he never suffered them to come up with him. Nothing was known +or traced respecting his history, and he appears to have finished his +wild career in the forest: probably he was some child left by accident +or design in that savage solitude; where, like Orson, some bear nursed +him, but who never found a Valentine to restore him to humanity. + +Itseaux still presents an immense extent of wood: it covers one side of +the mountains of Lescun, fills the valley of Baretous, and joins the +great forest of St. Engrace, to the entrance of the Vallee de Soule. It +is the largest of the Pyrenean forests. + +There is scarcely a valley in the Pyrenees to which some celebrity is +not attached. Amongst others, the Vallee d'Aspe resounds with the fame +of the pastoral poet, Despourrins: and Ariosto has celebrated that of +Gavarnie, where, in the _Tours de Marbore_, he places the abode of some +of his heroes. + + "Charlemagne, Agramont, tous leurs fameux heros; + Les Zerbin, les Roger, les Roland, les Renaud: + De ces Palais du Temps habitent les ruines. + + Tout parle d'Arioste en ce fameux vallon + Et comme aux champs Troyens, chaque roche a son nom." + +Cyprien Despourrins, though he wrote as one of the people, and _for_ +them, was not a man of obscure birth; his family was originally of a +race of shepherds; but one of his ancestors having made his fortune in +Spain, returned a great man to his native valley, the beautiful Vallee +d'Aspe, and there bought the Abbey of Juzan, and became a proprietor, +with many privileges. The father of the poet inherited his estates, and +distinguished himself in the career of arms, being cited for his +bravery, the character of which bears the impress of the times in which +he lived, namely, the end of the seventeenth century. Numerous anecdotes +are told of him: amongst others, that he had had a dispute with three +foreign gentlemen; and in order to get the quarrel off his hands at +once, he challenged them all three at the same time, and came off +victorious in the combat. To perpetuate the memory of his victory, he +obtained from the King permission to have engraved, over the principal +entrance of his house, _three swords_, which may still be seen on the +stone of the old building shown as his residence. After this notable +exploit, Pierre Despourrins visited the _Eaux de Cauteretz_, where, in +the neighbourhood of Argelez he formed an acquaintance with the family +of Miramont, and an attachment to the fair Gabrielle, daughter of that +house; through his marriage with whom, he afterwards became possessor of +the chateau of Miramont, near St. Savin, destined to become famous by +means of his son, the famous poet Cyprien. The chateau is still to be +seen, and is a great lion in the neighbourhood. + +There are constant disputes between the people of Bigorre and Bearn, as +to which has the greater right to claim the poet as their own, for he +belonged to both; but as he chose the musical _patois_ of the latter in +which to sing his pastorals, it appears but just that the Bearnese +should have the preference. He was born at Accous, in 1698: his two +brothers, Joseph and Pierre, became, one the vicar, the other the curate +of the village, and _he_ was called, _par excellence_, the _chevalier_. +There is a curious story told, illustrative of the simple manners of +these mountaineer-priests. The two brothers were very musical: one +played the flute, the other the violin; and every Sunday their talents +were exerted for the benefit of their parishioners. All the young people +of the place were accustomed to meet in the court-yard of their house; +and, seated at a casement, the reverend pair played to their dancing. As +soon as the bell sounded for vespers, the ball was suspended, and all +the docile flock accompanied the good pastors to church. + +The chevalier had inherited his father's warlike qualities, and was, it +seems, always ready with his sword. He was at the _Eaux Bonnes_ when he +received an affront from a stranger, which--as Sir Lucius O'Trigger has +it,--"his honour could not brook." Unluckily, he had not his sword with +him, and the affair must be decided at once; he therefore sent his +servant to Accous to fetch it, recommending him great promptitude and +address in inventing some story to prevent his father from guessing his +errand. The servant used his utmost despatch, and thought he had managed +very cleverly to avert suspicion: the old knight, however, was too +clear-sighted in such matters; and, having divined the state of the +case, mounted his mule instantly, and secretly followed the messenger. +He traversed the mountains of Escot and Benou, and, braving all their +difficulties, arrived at the Eaux Bonnes. On asking for his son, he was +informed that he was closeted with a stranger: he repaired thither, and, +pausing at the door, heard the clashing of swords. Satisfied that all +was as he surmised, the imperturbable old knight remained quietly at his +post, awaiting the issue of the combat. At length the noise of arms +ceased; young Despourrins came out precipitately, and found his father +on the watch, who, embracing him tenderly, exclaimed--"Your servant's +hasty departure prevented my setting out with him; but I followed +closely, guessing that you had an affair of honour on your hands; and, +in case you should fall, I brought my sword with me, which has never yet +failed at need." "I am your son," replied the Chevalier; "my adversary +is grievously wounded; let us hasten to afford him assistance." + +After Despourrins, the son, was established near St. Savin, and the +estates of the Vallee d'Aspe were abandoned by his father for his new +domain, he seems to have given himself up to the charms of poetry and +music, living the life of a shepherd, and familiarizing himself with the +habits, customs, manners and pleasures of that simple race, until he +spoke with their words, and thought with their thoughts. Whoever has +visited the beautiful Valley of Argelez, and wandered amongst the wilds +in the neighbourhood of the once famous abbey of St. Savin, can well +understand the poet's delight in such a retreat, and will not wonder +when he is told that Despourrins often passed whole nights in the woods, +singing his verses, like one transformed to a nightingale. Even now the +songs he sung are remembered and cherished; and though the _pastous_ of +his native mountains probably know nothing of the poet, his lays are +constantly on their tongues. One of the most famous is a romance, called +"La Hauet sus las Mountagnes," which I give entire, with a translation in +prose and verse, in order to show the nature of this Troubadour +language, which differs from the Gascon dialect, in being softer and +less guttural; in fact, resembling rather more the Italian than Spanish +language:-- + + La hauet sus las Mountagnes, u Pastou malhurous + Segut aue pe d'u Hau, negat de plous, + Sounyabe aue cambiamen de sas amous. + + "Co leueye, co boulatye!" dise l'infourtunat, + "La tendresse et l'amou qui t'ey pourtat + Soun aco lous rebuts qu'ey meritat? + + "Despuch que tu frequentes la yen de counditiou + Qu'as pres u ta hauet bol, que ma maysou, + N'ey prou hauete enta tu d'u cabirou. + + "Tas oueilles d'ab las mies, nous degnen plus meacla; + Touns superbes moutous, despuch enca, + Nou s'approchen deues mes, qu'entaues tuma + + "De richesses me passi, d'auenous, de qualitat: + You nou soy qu'u Pastou; mes noun n'y a nad + Que noues surpassi touts, en amistat, + + "Encouere que ay prauebe, dens moun petit estat, + Qu'aimi mey moun Berret tout espelat, + Que nou pas lou plus bet Chapeue bourdat. + + "Las richesses deue mounde nou ben queda turmen; + Et lou plus bet Seignou, dab soun aryen, + Nou baue pas lou Pastou qui biue counten. + + "Adiue, co de tygresse, Pastoure chens amou, + Cambia, be pots carabia de serbidou: + Yamey noun trouberas u tau coum you!" + + TRANSLATION. + + High up, amongst the mountains, an unfortunate shepherd + was seated at the foot of a beech, drowned in tears, musing on + the changes of his love. + + "Oh light, oh fickle heart!" said the unhappy youth; "for + the tenderness and the affection which I have borne towards you, + is this wretchedness a fitting reward? + + "Since you have frequented the society of persons of condition, + your flight has been so high that my humble cottage is too low + for you by at least a stage. + + "Your flocks no longer deign to mix with mine; your haughty + rams, since that period, never approach mine but a battle + ensues. + + "I am without wealth or dignity; I am but a simple shepherd + but there is none that can surpass me in affection. + + "And methinks, according to my simple ideas, that I prefer my + _berret_, old and worn as it is, to the finest ornamented hat that + could be given me. + + "The riches of the world only bring uneasiness with them, and + the finest lord with all his possessions cannot compare to the + shepherd who lives content. + + "Adieu, tigress-heart! Shepherdess without affection; change, + change, if you will, your adorers, never will you find any so true + as I have been." + +I here give a metrical version of the same song: + + DESPOURRINS. + + "La Haut sas las Mountagnes." + + ABOVE, upon the mountains, + A shepherd, full of thought, + Beneath a beech sat musing + On changes time had wrought: + He told to ev'ry echo + The story of his care, + And made the rocks acquainted + With love and its despair. + + "Oh! light of heart," he murmur'd, + "Oh! fickle and unkind! + Is this the cold return + My tenderness should find? + Is this a fit reward + For tenderness like mine?-- + Since thou hast sought a sphere + Where rank and riches shine, + + "Thou canst not cast a thought + Upon my lowly cot; + And all our former vows + Are in thy pride forgot. + For thee to enter in, + My roof is far too low, + Thy very flocks disdain + With mine to wander now. + + "Alas! I have no wealth, + No birth, no noble name, + A simple shepherd youth + Without a hope or claim; + But none of all the train + That now thy favours share + Can bear, as I have borne, + Or with my love compare. + + "I'd rather keep my habits, + Tho' humble and untaught, + Than learn the ways of courts, + With dang'rous falsehood fraught; + I'd rather wear my bonnet, + Tho' rustic, wild, and worn, + Than flaunt in stately plumes + Of courtiers highly born. + + "The riches of the world + Bring only care and pain, + And nobles great and grand + With many a rich domain, + Can scarcely half the pleasures, + With all their art, secure, + That wait upon the shepherd + Who lives content and poor. + + "Adieu, thou savage heart! + Thou fair one without love: + I break the chain that bound us, + And thou art free to rove. + + But know, when in thy vanity, + Thou wanderest alone, + No heart like mine will ever + Adore as I have done." + +The royal circle of Neuilly has been enlivened sometimes by the sound of +the Bearnese minstrelsy; and, on one occasion, listened to a band of +mountaineers from Luchon, who undertook, a few years since, a journey +through Europe, singing their choruses in all the principal cities. On +hearing the above song of Despourrins, the King exclaimed, with his +usual ready kindness,--"Your songs alone would be sufficient to make one +love your country." + +Several celebrated singers, favourites in the Italian world, were +natives of Bearn: one of these, Garat, surnamed "the musical Proteus," +was born at Ustaritz. Nothing appeared impossible to this prodigious +singer: his voice was splendid and his taste exquisite: his only defect +was an inordinate vanity--by no means an uncommon fault in artists of +this description. A person on one occasion, thinking to embarrass him, +inquired how high in the scale he could go; "I can mount as high as it +pleases me to go," was his reply. He used frequently to surprise the +Parisians by the introduction of Basque and Bearnese airs, whose +peculiarity and originality never failed to cause the most lively +admiration and enthusiasm; but he did not announce them as mountain +songs till he had secured the praise he sought for them, having passed +them for Italian productions. A similar _ruse_ was practised by Mehul, +when he brought out his "Irato," which the public was given to imagine +was composed by an Italian _maestro_. Its success was very great, and +Geoffrey, the editor of a popular paper, in noticing the opera, +exclaimed,--"O, if Mehul could compose as well as this, we might be +satisfied with him." When the triumphant composer threw off his +incognito, the unlucky critic was not a little mortified. The celebrated +singer Jelyotte was from Bearn, and Louis the Fifteenth used to delight +in hearing him sing his native melodies: in particular one beginning, +"De cap a tu soy Marion," one of Despourrins' most spirited pastorals:-- + + "I am your own, my Marion, + You charm me with each gentle art; + Even from the first my love was won, + Your pretty ways so pleased my heart; + If you will not, or if you will, + I am compell'd to love you still. + + "No joy was ever like my joy, + When I behold those smiling eyes, + Those graceful airs so soft and coy, + For which my heart with fondness dies: + And when I seek the charm in vain, + I dream the pleasure o'er again. + + "Alas! I have no palace gay, + My cottage is but small and plain; + No gold, nor marble, nor display, + No courtly friends nor glitt'ring train; + But honest hearts and words of cheer + Are there, and store of love sincere. + + "Why should we not be quite as blest, + Without the wealth the great may own? + A shepherd life, methinks, is best, + Whose care is for his flock alone; + And when he folds them safe and warm, + He knows no grief, he dreams no harm. + + "If you, dear Marion, would be mine, + No king could be so blest as I; + My thoughts, hopes, wishes, should combine, + To make your life pass happily; + Caresses, fondness, love, and glee, + Should teach you soon to love like me." + +Another very favourite song is the "Aue mounde nou y a nat Pastou,"[52] +in which mention is made of the national dances for which Bearn is +celebrated, as well as the _Pays Basque_ which produces _baladins_, +famous throughout France for their feats of agility and grace. There is +a great variety of these dances, and those executed by the young men of +St. Savin are remarkable in their kind: bands of the dancers go from +village to village in the times of _fetes_, and are much sought after: +they appear very like our May-day mummers, or morrice-dancers, and have +probably the same, namely, an eastern, origin: instead of Robin Hood, +the Chevalier Bayard is the personage represented in their disguise, and +a female always appears amongst them, who answers to our Maid Marian: +they are covered with flaunting ribbons, and hold little flags in their +hands. + +[Footnote 52: There are two songs beginning with the same words: both +favourites.] + + SONG. + + "There's not a shepherd can compare + With him who loves me well and true; + French he can speak, with such an air, + As if the ways of courts he knew: + And if he wore a sword, you'd say, + It was the King who pass'd this way. + + "If you beheld, beneath our tree, + How he can dance the Mouchicou,-- + Good Heaven! it is a sight to see + His Manuguet and Passe-pie too! + His match for grace no swain can show + In all the Valley of Ossau. + + "Lest Catti, in the summer day, + The noon-day sun too hot should find, + A bow'r with flow'rs and garlands gay, + By love's own tender hand entwined, + Close to our fold, amidst the shade, + For me that charming shepherd made." + +There is considerable variety of style and expression in the poetry of +Despourrins, although his subject does not change--being "love, still +love." + +The following might pass for a song by a poet of the school of +Suckling:-- + + SONG. + + "Malaye quoan te by!" + + "OH! when I saw thee first, + Too beautiful, and gay, and bland, + Gathering with thy little hand + The flow'r of May, + Oh! from that day + My passion I have nurst-- + 'Twas when I saw thee first! + + "And ever since that time, + Thy image will not be forgot, + And care and suff'ring are my lot; + I know not why + So sad am I, + As though to love were crime-- + Oh! ever since that time! + + "Those eyes so sweet and bright, + Illume within my trembling breast, + A flame that will not let me rest; + Oh! turn away + The dazzling ray-- + They give a dang'rous light, + Those eyes so sweet and bright! + + "Thou hast not learnt to love, + But, cruel and perverse of will, + Thou seek'st but to torment me still. + Faithful in vain + I bear my chain, + Only, alas! to prove + Thou hast not learnt to love!" + +But, perhaps, one of the most striking of all Despourrins' poems, from +the beauty of the _patois_ and the pretty conceits, is the "Deus +attraits d'uc youenne pastoure," which reminds one of Ronsard's "Une +beaute de quinze ans, enfantine." + + POEM. + + "Tis to a maiden young and fair, + That my poor heart has fall'n a prey, + And now in tears and sighs of care + Pass all my moments, night and day. + + "The sun is pale beside her face, + The stars are far less bright than she, + They shine not with so pure a grace, + Nor glow with half her charms to me. + + "Her eyes are like two souls, all fire; + They dazzle with a living ray; + But ah! their light which I desire + Is turn'd from me by Love, away. + + "Her nose, so delicate and fine, + Is like a dial in the sun, + That throws beneath a shadowy line + To mark the hours that love has run. + + "The fairies form'd her rosy mouth, + And fill'd it with soft words at will, + And from her bosom breathes the South-- + Sweet breath! that steals my reason still. + + "Her waist is measured by the zone + The Graces long were wont to wear; + And none but Love the comb can own, + That smooths the ringlets of her hair. + + "And when she glides along like air, + Her feet so small, so slight are seen, + A little pair of wings, you'd swear, + Were flutt'ring where her step has been. + + "Dear object of my tender care, + My life, my sun, my soul thou art, + Oh! listen to the trembling pray'r, + That woos thee from this breaking heart." + + A QUARREL. + + "Adechat! las mies amous." + + _He_.--MY pretty Margaret, good day! + The mountain air is chill; + And if you guide your lambs this way, + The cold will do you ill. + + _She_.--No, gentle friend, tho' cold I seem, + The air I need not fear; + It is the chillness of your stream + That runs so fresh and clear. + + _He_.--The cock had not begun his song; + When with my flocks I came; + To meet you here I waited long-- + Your haste was not the same. + + _She_.--My lambs and I were in the mead + Before the break of day; + And you, methinks, have little need + To blame _me_ for delay. + + _He_.--My sheep, with many a ruddy streak, + And bells of jocund sound, + Heav'n knows, a lively music make, + Which can be heard far round. + Come, let our flocks be hither led, + Beneath this shade repair; + For you have butter, I have bread, + And we our meal will share. + Feed, pretty lambs, and feed, my sheep, + Awhile her flock beside, + And, as on flow'rs ye browse and sleep, + We'll leave you for a tide. + Thou, God of Love, who in the air, + Art hov'ring in our view, + Guard well our flocks, and to thy care + Oh! take two lovers too! + + _She_.--No,--farewell till to-morrow, dear, + I may not now abide; + For if I longer tarry here, + My friends will surely chide. + + * * * * * + + DESPOURRINS. + + * * * * * + + "Y Ataue quoan la rose ey nabere." + + * * * * * + + "When first the rose her perfume threw, + And spread her blossoms to the day, + I saw thee, Phillis, blooming too, + With all the charms that round her play. + + "Pure as the sun, thy glace of power, + Thy voice has music's softest swell,-- + I saw thee in an evil hour, + Or never should have loved so well! + + "Though from thy presence I remove, + While I lament I still adore,-- + Oh! what can absence do to love, + But to increase the feeling more! + + "Ye simple swains, who know not yet + What pleasure and what pain may be, + Guard well your hearts from Love's regret, + If you would live from danger free." + + * * * * * + + DESPOURRINS. + + * * * * * + + "Aue mounde nou-y-a nad Pastou, + T'a malhurous coum you!" + + * * * * * + + "No shepherd in this world can be + The child of wretchedness like me: + One would not think it, but I know + No feeling but continued woe; + For Sorrow came into my fold, + And there her dwelling loves to hold. + + "It seem'd the joy of Fate, + New pleasures to provide, + And, 'midst my happy state, + A lamb was all my pride. + The sun conceal'd his light, + Whene'er she came in sight. + + "I never dreamt of gold, + I lived content and free; + The treasure of my fold, + Seem'd but to live for me. + + Alas! those hours that bless, + Not long would time allow, + My joys, my happiness, + Are changed to sorrow now! + + "She loved my pipe to hear, + And midst the flock would pause, + And with a smile, so dear, + Would give me soft applause: + And with her music sweet + My notes she would repeat. + + "How many jealous swains + Would look, and sigh, and long: + Not one a word could gain, + She only heard my song; + But now that lamb has stray'd + I see her form no more; + My ev'ry hope betray'd, + My fate let all deplore! + My sleep, my rest, is gone, + And I am all undone!" + + * * * * * + + DESPOURRINS. + + * * * * * + + "Moun Diue! quine souffrance-- + M'as tu causat!" + + * * * * * + + "Of what contentment + Those eyes bereft me-- + And ah! how coldly + Thou since hast left me: + Yet didst thou whisper + Thy heart was mine,-- + Oh! they were traitors + Those eyes of thine! + For 'tis thy pleasure + That I repine. + + "Alas! how often + I sigh'd in vain, + And loved so dearly + To purchase pain: + And all my guerdon + To be betray'd, + And only absence + My safety made, + To muse on fondness + So ill repaid. + + "But let me warn thee + While time is yet, + Thy heart may soften + And learn regret: + Should others teach thee + New thoughts to prove, + And all thy coldness + Be quell'd by love, + Thou mayst glean sorrow + For future years,-- + Beware--false maiden! + Beware of tears!" + + DESPOURRINS. + + "Per acere castagnere." + + BENEATH a chesnut shade + A shepherd, drown'd in tears, + By her he loved betray'd, + Thus sung his grief and fears: + "Why dost thou smile," he said, + "As all my woes increase? + When will my truth be paid, + And all thy coldness cease?" + + The fair one listen'd not,-- + And feign'd she had not seen; + But sought a distant spot, + The furze and heath between, + But, as she proudly went, + Thorns, in her path that lay, + Her little feet have rent, + And stopp'd her on her way. + + She paused, in sudden pain, + Her pride aside she laid, + And, in soft tone, was fain + To ask her lover's aid; + She bade, in piteous mood, + He would the thorns remove, + And take from gratitude + The kiss denied to love. + + That grateful kiss she must + Bestow--tho' she deplore it; + And he had been unjust + Not--doubly--to restore it. + + DESPOURRINS. + + "Roussignoulet qui cantes."[53] + + [Footnote 53: This song singularly resembles Burns' charming "Banks + and braes" in its opening, though it is greatly inferior as a + whole.] + + OH! nightingale that sing'st so sweet, + Perch'd on the boughs elate, + How softly does thy music greet + Thy tender list'ning mate. + + While I, alas! from joy removed, + With heart oppress'd, must go, + And, leaving her so fondly loved, + Depart in hopeless woe. + + Ah me! I see before me yet + Our parting and her pain, + My bosom throbb'd with vain regret + To hear her still complain. + My trembling hand she fondly press'd, + Her voice in murmurs died: + "Oh! is not our's a fate emblest, + Since we must part," she cried. + + I promised her, whate'er betide, + To love her to the last, + And Fate, my truth has sadly tried, + In all our sorrows past; + But she may trust me, tho' we part, + And both our lot deplore: + Where'er I go, this bleeding heart + Will suffer ever more. + + The clearest streams that gently flow, + The river murm'ring by, + Not purer than my heart can show, + Nor have more tears than I. + No book nor scroll can tell a fate + Where sorrows so combine; + No pen can write, nor song relate, + Such misery as mine! + + Thus, like the turtle, sad and lone, + Who leaves his mate in pain, + I go, with many a tender moan, + And dream of love in vain: + By all the ties that bound us long, + By all the hopes we knew, + Oh I hear thy shepherd's latest song, + Receive his last adieu! + +Anxious to visit a country whose history and traditions had so much +excited my interest and curiosity, I accompanied a friend, early in the +year 1843, on an expedition to the Vallee d'Aspe, and through part of +the Pays Basque. I would willingly have waited for spring, particularly +as I heard from everybody in Pau, that to reach the valleys leading to +Spain in the month of February was impossible--was worse than folly: in +fact, was what none but the English, who are supposed to have taken +leave of their senses, would attempt. One French gentleman, who was well +acquainted with every part of the Pyrenees, and had twice made the +ascent of the Pic du Midi, was indignant at our perseverance, insisting +that we should be stopped by the snows--although very little had fallen +in the last winter--and that the Basque country was totally +uninteresting except in summer. Others told us that it was never worth +seeing at any season; but, as I had become aware that persons settled in +Pau were bound in a spell, and scarcely ever ventured more than a league +from their retreat until, being once in motion, they set forth towards +the mountains in the opposite direction, I did not allow myself to be +persuaded to remain in the "Little Paris of the South" for carnival +balls, and, followed by the pity and surprise of most of our friends, we +took our dangerous way, on a sunny morning, as hot as July, towards +Oloron. + +Oloron, finely situated on a height, is a wide, open, clean, and +well-built town, with so much open, fresh air, that, after the +enervating and confined atmosphere of Pau, one seemed to breathe new +life. The walks are good and extensive, and the magnificent range of the +snowy mountains very close. Two rushing torrents divide the town between +them--the Gaves of Ossau and Aspe--and from the two bridges which span +them the view of their impetuous course is extremely imposing. These +magnificent torrents are the charm of the Pyrenees; making the country, +through which they hurry, one scene of beauty and animation: they do +also terrible mischief by their violence when swelled by rains, as we +had afterwards occasion to observe; but, at all times, give a character +of singular grandeur to the places where they sweep along in +uncontrolled majesty. + +The village, or faubourg, of Ste. Marie d'Oloron joins the main town; +and here is situated the cathedral, once of great importance, but now, +like all the religious establishments in this part of France, preserving +little of its ancient glory. The pillars, however, of its aisles are +very grand and massive, and are part of the early structure: the form +and height are imposing, and the chapels of the choir graceful; but the +chief curiosity is the portal, which bears marks of a Saracenic origin. +The arch is a wide circle, finely ornamented, and, in the centre, an +Indian-shaped pillar divides it into two smaller circular arches: the +base of this pillar is formed of two figures standing back to back, +stooping beneath the load they bear on their hands and depressed heads: +they are covered with fetters, both on their legs and arms: their +striped dresses are quite Indian, and they wear a curious, melon-shaped +cap: the faces are hideous and exaggerated, the limbs strong and well +made, and they are in perfect preservation. + +I have not seen any satisfactory account of the cathedral, which might +explain these curious supporters: on each side of the portal projects a +carved figure--one much defaced, the other representing a leopard or +panther. A series of beautiful pillars, forming pedestals to absent +saints, fill up the space of the porch, and that beyond is closed by +high, open arches--rebuilt, but, doubtless, originally of the same +construction as those of the beautiful side-entrance to the cathedral of +Bourges, where Moorish carvings also occur. + +There are no other antiquities in Oloron; but it is an agreeable, +healthy town, and looks flourishing and lively; and, I should imagine, +must be a cheap place to live in, and has several advantages over its +rival, Pau; this, however, is not acknowledged by the partisans of that +exclusive town, which is supposed, by those who patronise it, to bear +away the bell from every other in Bearn. + +The Vallee d'Aspe begins its winding way soon after Oloron is past; and +the magnificent, broad river dashes along its rocky bed, as green and +bright and foaming as its rival of Ossau, which it exceeds in volume. +Our destination was to Bedous, where we were to rest for the night; and, +as the shades of evening were already coming on, we could not long enjoy +the beauty of this lovely valley, which we anticipated seeing on our +return, after having visited all the wonders of the pass into Spain, as +far as Urdos, where the high road, which is remarkably good, ends. + +Bedous is a shabby, insignificant, and, at this time of year, +desolate-looking town, in the bosom of the mountains, where we were fain +to lodge for the night as we best could, having good reason to +congratulate ourselves on our precaution in taking provisions, +particularly bread, wine, and coffee, as all we found there was bad. +There was, however, no want of civility and desire to please; and the +attendance, if not good, was, at all events, ample: two of the +waiting-maids were extremely handsome--- with dark eyes and fine +features, and their handkerchiefs put on very gracefully; but the voices +of all the inhabitants of Bedous were cracked and hoarse, and so +unmusical, that it was difficult to imagine oneself in the country of +Despourrins. + +As early as possible the next morning we set forth on our journey +further up the valley; and, the weather being fine and the sky clear, +we were delighted with the aspect of the snowy mountains above and +around us. The plain of Bedous is of some extent, and, in the fine +season, must be extremely beautiful, being highly cultivated and very +picturesque: seven villages are scattered at distances along its +expanse--the most conspicuous of which is Accous, where the poet was +born; and on a mound without the town stands a pyramid, lately erected +to his memory. Nothing can be more beautiful than this position; and, in +summer, it must be a little Paradise. The village of Osse, opposite, is +a small Protestant retreat in an equally charming spot: hills, called in +the country _Turons_, surround this happy valley--_avant-couriers_ of +the higher chain, which rise as the Gave is followed into deeper +solitude. + +Marca, the historian of Bearn, cites, in his work, a curious document +relative to this valley. It is dated June 1, 1348, and its title is +sufficiently singular; it runs thus. + +"Contract of a peace made between the valleys of Aspe and Lavedan, by +order of the Pope, who had absolved the earth, the inhabitants and the +castle of Lavedan, from the sin committed by the abbe of St. Savin, in +causing the death, _by magic art_, of a great number of the inhabitants +of Aspe, in revenge for the rapines and ravages they had committed in +Lavedan: _in punishment of which crime, neither the earth, the women, +nor the herds of Lavedan had borne fruit for six years."_ + +The people of this neighbourhood have the credit of being remarkably +intelligent, and, at the same time, simple in their habits and manners: +there is considerable jealousy between them and those of Ossau: all we +could judge of was that the civility appeared equal, and it appeared to +us that the beauty of the peasantry was more striking, though in this +opinion we are not borne out by that of others. The boasted costumes are +rarely seen in winter; but we observed one young woman very +picturesquely dressed in an old and faded black velvet boddice, +peculiarly shaped, laced with red, which, if it had ever been _new_ in +her time, might have been pretty. Every article of their dress, however, +looks as if it had descended from generation to generation, till every +bit of colour or brilliancy had departed from it, leaving only a +threadbare rag, which imagination alone can invest with grace or beauty. + +The route we were following was the high road to Saragossa, and, +occasionally, we met sombre groups of men in black _capotes_, mounted on +horses or mules, and others escorting waggons laden with Spanish +wool--the chief article of commerce. Flocks of beautiful goats were very +frequent, and every object seemed new and singular to our eyes. + +We dismounted from our carriage at a little bridge over the Gave, and, +under the direction of a guide who had accompanied us from Bedous, we +set forth, beside its rushing current, towards the cascade of Lescun, +far up in the hills. The loud roar and dash of the beautiful torrent, +foaming and splashing over its bed, strewn with huge pieces of rock, was +the excuse which our guide gave for declining to sing Despourrins' +songs, with which he was, however, well acquainted. _"Ils sont plus +forts pour ca en Ossau"_ was his remark, in a voice so harsh and coarse +that I did not pursue my entreaties. We met a fine old man, whom I took +for a shepherd, from his cloak and brown _berret_, and the large +Pyrenean dog which followed him, but he turned out to be a rich +proprietor of land, showed us part of his domains, and seemed a +well-informed man, talking familiarly of England and its _comte de +Chester_, asking us our motive for visiting this part of France, which +he concluded to be economy, and entertaining us greatly by his remarks. +Our walk, or rather scramble, to the cascade was very agreeable, but +exceedingly rugged, mounting the whole way between the hills till we +reached the spot where the Gave comes foaming over a broad ledge of +rock, and falls into the valley below with a thundering sound. It is +much interrupted in its descent, and forms new cataracts as it goes: so +that the whole side of the mountain is in commotion with its leaps and +gambols; clouds of spray, like smoke, curling up from the foamy abyss, +and every echo sounding with its hoarse murmurs. It reminded me of some +of the falls in the Mont Dore; but without the pines. + +Meantime, the snowy peaks of the giants of the valley were seen peering +over the lower hills, and shining in light; but scarcely had we reached +the highest point of the cascade, and were standing on the bridge which +spans it, when clouds came over the scene, heavy drops began to fall, +and we found it necessary to hasten our return to the high road, where +we had left our carriage. + +To descend the stony and slippery ways was infinitely more difficult +than to mount; and I soon found that clinging to the tough branches of +box, which here grows luxuriantly, and sheds a fine fresh odour round, +was not sufficient assistance. The guide now proved, by the strength of +his arm in assisting us, and his agility, that he possessed qualities +more useful than the Arcadian accomplishment, the want of which had +annoyed me as we came, and I forgave him for being unable to sing the +praises of _La Plus Charmante Anesquette_, the words of which ditty he +nevertheless repeated, with surprise and pleasure at finding they were +old acquaintances of ours. + +Our way was now towards Urdos, by Cette Eygun, and through Etscau, where +the Gave forces its way along the street, and where, on the opposite +bank, on a high terrace, stands the antique village of Borce--once of +importance and now only picturesque. We did not see the town of Lescun, +but the path to it appears most precipitous: the inhabitants are said to +be the most daring smugglers in the valley, and the town stands perched +like a vulture's nest, closed in by savage hills, and concealed from +sight, as if it had much to hide. + +The Spirit of the Pic d'Anie was evidently offended at our seeking his +vicinity at so unaccustomed a season, and sent down one of his storms of +rain which are so frequent in the valley. As the weather, however, +continued warm we did not heed his anger, and continued our journey +through the most magnificent scenery--grander and more surprising at +every step--till we reached the huge masses of rock called Le Portalet, +where once stood a fort, built by Henri Quatre to arrest the approach of +the Spaniards. A little further on is a wondrous path, worked in the +rocks, over a tremendous precipice, for the purpose of transporting +timber. A new fort is being constructed here, and the appearance of a +little toy-like hut, fastened to the entrance of a cave for the +convenience of the workmen who are to blast the rock, is startling and +curious. + +Urdos is a wild-looking place, at the extremity of the valley, with no +interest belonging to it except that it is the end of the road for +carriages, and that at this spot the remainder of the way to Jacca must +be made on mules. As the weather was unpropitious, and the snows +rendered the _trajet_ uncertain, we did not allow our curiosity to carry +us further, and contented ourselves with observing the remarkable groups +crowding round the inn-door at which we stopped. Spaniards, in wild +costumes, with white leggings buttoned behind, sandaled feet, turbaned +heads, and rough cloaks thrown over their shoulders, carrying large +bundles of goods, were lounging by the entrance, waiting till the rain +should cease that they might pursue their way. Some women were of their +party, whose appearance was very singular, and the colours of their +dresses varied and brilliant in the extreme: one had thrown her green +gown, lined with red, over her head, like a veil, and her face was +nearly concealed by its folds; her petticoat was of two other bright +hues, and she stood, in a commanding attitude, grasping a large staff, a +perfect specimen of a brigand's wife. + +By degrees, as different guests passed in and out of the inn, and were +attracted to the door by the appearance of strangers, we were able to +form the most charming pictures, till all Murillo's groups seemed +combined in the shifting scene within that narrow frame. + +At one time, the _tableau_ was complete with the following figures, all +coloured in the richest manner, and harmonizing most exquisitely:--a +very pretty, intelligent young woman, dressed in green, violet, red, and +brown, stood leaning against the doorpost, with an infant in pink, grey, +and stone-colour, in her arms: her husband--a handsome, dark Spaniard, +with a many-coloured handkerchief with ends twisted round his wild, +black, straggling hair--raised his face above her: in shade, behind, +stood a sinister-looking smuggler with a _sombrero_, dressed in dark +velvet, and a large white cloak thrown over his shoulder: occupying the +front space, leant, in a graceful attitude, a female who seemed mistress +of the inn. She was a very striking figure, and, both as to costume and +feature, might have been the original of many a Spanish Sainte +Elizabeth, but younger than she is usually represented. Every part of +her dress had a tint of red so subdued into keeping, that it seemed the +effect of study, although, of course, mere chance; her gown was rich +dark crimson, her apron brighter geranium, her handkerchief, sleeves, +and boddice, shades of reddish brown; the large hood on her head a +chocolate colour: it was formed of a handkerchief tied negligently under +her chin; a second, of rich tint, was bound tightly over her brows, +hiding her hair, and her beautiful features came out in fine relief; a +delicate blush was on her somewhat tanned cheek, and her eyes were full +of calm expression: she had very prettily-shaped hands and feet, and was +altogether a model for a painter; struggling through this group, almost +at their feet, came, from beneath their drapery, a lovely little brown +child, all reds and purples, with glossy black hair, ruddy cheeks, and +large black eyes fixed upon us with a sly, smiling gaze. The stained +stone, of which the house was built, was of a fine cold colour, and the +deep rich shade within made a back-ground which completed the whole. + +In the door-way of a neighbouring stable was another party watching the +rain, nearly as picturesque; and before them was dancing, in grotesque +attitudes, a half-crazed old woman, at whose vagaries the lookers-on +indolently smiled. Our admiration of the beautiful children quite won +the hearts of the mothers, who had, apparently, at first regarded us +with a somewhat haughty air, and a few little silver pieces completed +our conquest; we, therefore, drove off on our return to Bedous, in high +favour with our strange wild friends, and ceased to feel at all alarmed +at the possibility of their overtaking us on the mountains. + +We were obliged to pass another night at the inodorous inn of Bedous, +amidst the noise of a carnival night, and the hideous howls of a jovial +party who had that day assisted at a wedding, and who seemed bent on +proving that music was banished from the valley. I heard the word +"_Roncevaux_" in one of their songs; but could distinguish nothing +besides to atone for the discord they made, as they danced _La Vache_ +under our windows, in the pouring rain, by the light of a dim lanthorn. + +I was told by the landlady that in the church of Bedous were formerly +two _benitiers_, one within the aisle, and one in the porch; the latter +being appropriated to the use of that unfortunate race--the +Cagots--about whom I had been so inquisitive ever since I arrived in +Bearn. Accordingly, we lost no time in going to seek for these strange +relics; after looking about in vain, and discovering only one +_benitier_, we were assisted in our search by a man belonging to the +church, and our female guide; who understood only _patois_, and led to +the mysterious spot where the worn stone is to be seen on which once +stood the vase of holy water into which the wretched outcasts were +permitted to dip their fingers. The recess is now used as a closet, +which is closed with wooden doors, and the _benitier_ is removed, +"because," said the man, "there is no distinction _now_, and the Cagots +use the same as other people,"[54] I inquired if it was known who were +Cagot families, and was told "_certainly_;" but little account was taken +of the fact. "Bedous," said my informant, "was one of the Cagot +villages, but the prejudice is almost worn out now: it is true we do not +care to marry into their families if we can help it; not that there is +any disease amongst them; it is all mere fancy. Only when people +quarrel, they call each other Cagots in contempt; however, we shall soon +forget all about it." + +[Footnote 54: At Utraritz, near Bayonne, they show, in the porch of the +church, a similar recess, where once stood the _benitier_ of the +Cagots.] + +On our return through the valley to Oloron, we paused at Notre Dame de +Sarrance, a place of pilgrimage, entirely uninteresting as a church, but +placed in a beautiful position amongst the hills. + +At Oloron, when we passed before, there was no room for us, in +consequence of the whole inn being occupied with guests at the wedding +of the landlord's fourth daughter, the three others having been lately +married. As we arrived the day after the wedding, there still remained +sufficient good cheer to supply our wants, and make a pleasing contrast +to Bedous. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + ARAMITZ--THE PLAY--MAULEON--THE SISTERS--WORDS--ST. JEAN. + + +OUR intention now was to visit Mauleon, and see as much of the Pays +Basque as the uncertain state of the weather would allow. The route to +Aramitz is very beautiful, with the fine valley of Baretous, and the +Bois d'Erreche stretching out at the foot of the bold hills. When we +entered the town of Aramitz the whole population was assembled in a +great square; some acting, and others gazing at a carnival play, the +performers in which were dressed in flaunting robes, with crowns and +turbans; while a troop, in full regimental costume, figured away as a +victorious French army, headed by a young Napoleon, who ever and anon +harangued his troops and led them on to battle against a +determined-looking band of enemies, amongst whom were conspicuous _a +bishop_ and _a cure_, in full dress. A combat ensued, when the heroes on +each side showed so little nerve, being evidently afraid of their own +swords--which seemed _real_ steel, that no child's-play in England could +have gone off so tamely: the enemies all fell down at the first attack, +and the only comic part was the rushing forward of the fool, and his +agonized exclamation of "_O! mon cure!_" as he dragged that reverend +gentleman from beneath a heap of slain. We asked our driver how it +happened that the clergy of the parish allowed this _travestie_, and how +the cure's dress had been procured: he told us that the costume belonged +to some one who had _formerly_ been in the Church, and as for the +representation no one could prevent it, particularly as the sons of the +mayor were amongst the actors. "But," he added, "M. le Cure will _have +his revenge_ next Sunday by preaching them a sermon which he intends +shall make their ears tingle; though no one will care a bit about it." + +We observed, that it was wrong to turn the ministers of religion into +ridicule, to which our lively guide agreed, concluding with the usual +shrug and inevitable remark of all Frenchmen--Bearnais and +other--"_Mais, que voulez vous!_" + +My companion's donation of a franc, was received with rapture by a +general and an emperor, who came to our carriage with a plate, in the +centre of which was an apple with numerous slits, in which were inserted +certain borrowed napoleons, to excite to generosity. We were vehemently +invited to mount to a place of honour to view the play at our ease; but +we declined, as it was not the dramatic performance that delighted us, +but the extraordinary effect of the costumes of the crowd below. All the +young girls wore their new and most brilliant handkerchiefs tied on +their heads with the utmost care, and exhibiting colours so rich and +glowing, that, as they flitted about in the sun, they seemed so many +_colibri_ with changeable crests of all the hues of the rainbow. The +rich colours worn here give an air of gaiety and cheerfulness, agreeably +contrasted with the dark and gloomy tints of the head-dresses at and +near Pau; which, though gracefully tied, are usually sombre and dim. + +The whole town of Aramitz was gay with carnival rejoicings, and as we +drove along we came upon another crowd in another square, where we saw a +party of six young men in black-and-green velvet dresses, and scarlet +sashes, nimbly dancing the _Rondo Basque_; while the gorgeously-adorned +young girls stood by, observing, but taking no part in the exercise. +They seemed very agile and nimble, and kept up an incessant movement, +not without grace; but it had an odd effect to see the men dancing +alone, and that circumstance impresses one with the conviction of the +dance being of eastern origin. We had not an opportunity of seeing any +of the other dances so celebrated in the country, which are precisely +similar to our morris-dances still exhibited, occasionally, in the +country on May-day. + +The Basque country, properly so called, begins at Montory, and a +perceptible change, singular enough, is observable in the country: a +range of hills, of shapes impossible to describe--so witch-like and +irregular is their outline--extends for some distance along the way, +ushering the traveller into the pretty plain below. + +At Tardets there is a bridge over the charming Gave of _Uhaitshandia_; +and now begin the extraordinary names of places, which French, Bearnais, +and Spanish alike find so difficult to pronounce or understand. Now the +few familiar words which we comprehended in Bearnais were heard no more, +and a language of the most singular yet musical sound took its place. +The first objects we saw were two Andalusian women, ragged, filthy, and +slovenly, to a degree quite amazing, their dingy white woollen gowns +thrown over their heads; faded apple-green petticoats in thick plaits +hanging from their shoulders, with no indication of waists, bare legs +and feet, and bold, savage aspect. They laughed loudly at some remark +_en passant_ of our driver; who seemed accomplished in languages, being +able to speak to all he met. Immediately afterwards we met some Basque +women, whose costume had no other distinction but that of their +headkerchiefs being white; this, however is rare, except on occasions of +_fete_, as we always saw the same beautiful brilliant colours as before, +throughout our journey. + +Mauleon, one of the chief towns of the Basque country, is charmingly +situated in a rich country, on the Gaison Gave, surrounded by the varied +hills of the Bois de Tibarene. Of all its former grandeur and strength +scarce a vestige remains: one ruined fort, of a commanding height, above +the town, alone attests its ancient glory: from this spot is a charming +view, taking in all the town and plain and surrounding mountains. The +churches, once of great importance, are dwindled to insignificance; and +we were much disappointed to discover nothing interesting either at the +antique church of Berautte or Licharre. We found, however, an equivalent +in the beauty of the scenery round, and the charm of hearing the +sweetest of languages from the lips of two pretty little girls of ten +and eleven years of age, the daughters of our hostess, who herself had a +melodious voice, and peculiarly pleasing manners. These little fairies +constituted themselves our attendants during our stay at Mauleon, and as +they spoke, equally well, French and Basque, we enjoyed their innocent +prattle and intelligent remarks extremely. They were very eloquent in +praise of a certain English traveller named _Francois_, who had stayed +some time at their inn, and wanted to take them away to England, and +they tried hard to persuade us that he _must_ be a relation, because he +_talked_ and _drew_ like us, and because we wanted to take them away +too. + +I made a little vocabulary of Basque words under their tuition; +and it was like listening to music to hear them utter the pretty +phrases and words; _maita suthut hanich_--I love you much; +_ene-madtea_--my friend; _ama_--my mother; _aita_--my father; +_belhara_--grass; _nescatila_--little girl; _minyiate bat_--a fairy; +_oheitza_--remembrance. + +I procured a Basque dictionary at Mauleon, at a somewhat primitive +library, where the usual commodities sold were candles and soap. At one +end of the shop was a range of books on a shelf; and while the very +civil master was gone to look for those more choice volumes which we +required, his housekeeper stood by, in a state bordering on distraction +at the sacrilege committed by us, in daring to remove from their +positions tomes which her master evidently did not permit her to lay a +finger on. In Basque, and all the French she had, did she clamour to us +to desist, assuring us it was a thing unheard of, and would derange the +whole economy of the establishment; and, certainly, as her anger +increased with our indifference, she proved to us that it was possible +to make discord out of sweet notes; however, the purchase of the books +her master had found silenced and confounded her; and we escaped with +our prize, much to the delight and amusement of our little guides, who +thought it necessary, _en chemin_, to apologize for the old woman's +rudeness. + +The father of our favourites we found, though taciturn at first, a very +well-informed man; he confirmed all that I had gathered from works I had +read on the subject of the Basques--their language and manners; and +regretted that the unpropitious state of the weather prevented our +witnessing any of the usual out-of-door amusements, common at the +season. He described the eloquence and wit of the common people as +something wonderful; but their _comedies_, he said, were seldom fitted +for more refined ears than their own. The character of their amusements, +he added, was grave, as their improvised tragedies prove; the language +lends itself to poetry with such singular facility, that poets are by no +means rare; and, amongst the lower class, some are, as I had heard +before, singularly gifted, but they never write down their compositions, +which are, therefore, difficult to collect. The airs of their songs are +almost always melancholy and solemn, and require fine voices to give +them effect. I have since been told, by a Basque gentleman of taste and +information, precisely the same; and, as he sings well, he kindly +allowed me to hear some of their melodies, which remind me much of the +saddest of the Irish native airs. His opinion was, that there is great +similarity in the character of the Basque and Irish; and he tells me, +that the _sound_ of many of their words is alike; but when they speak +together all proves to be _mere_ sound; for they do not understand a +syllable of either tongue. + +The greater part of the language seems to me corrupted by the +introduction of French and Spanish words, probably required to express +wants, which the original Basque had acquired in the course of time; + + "When wild in woods the noble savage ran," + +he did not want much that he afterwards sought for words to express his +desire to obtain. But the genuine words, in which there is no mixture of +another language, may well puzzle the learned; for they are most +singular: as for instance, + +Oghia Bread +Uhaitza River +Hoora Water +Haicha Stars +Hala Ship +Harhibat Stone +Egura Wood +Eskia Hand +Mahatsac Grapes +Sahmahia Horse +Etchia Habitation +Begitatiha Face + +Our next destination was to St. Jean Pied de Port; and we took our way +across the mountains of Musculdy, the scenery the whole way being +exquisitely beautiful, and richly cultivated in the plains. We continued +mounting without cessation for nearly two hours; and as we walked the +greatest part of the time, we met with a few adventures by the way. We +were joined, in a very steep part, by a party who were travelling from +Mauleon to St. Just. We had been struck with the brilliant colours of +the young woman's dress as we passed her and her mother, and a boy +accompanying them; she was leaning against a stone wall, where she had +rested her large white bundle, and her attitude was free and graceful in +the extreme, as she bent her head on her hand evidently fatigued. She +wore a headkerchief of deep chocolate-colour, striped with blue, and +bordered with bright yellow; her stuff petticoat was scarlet, edged with +black velvet; she had tucked up her green-striped gown, and thus +displayed its crimson lining; her shawl was of fine red merinos, +embroidered in glowing colours, of Spanish manufacture, as she +afterwards informed us, _and smuggled_; her legs were bare, but she wore +black shoes; and her umbrella, the constant appendage, was brown; her +gait, as she walked along the road, with her white package on her head, +was that of a heroine of a melo-drame. I never saw a more striking +figure; for she was, though not pretty, remarkably well-made and tall, +and all her motions were easy and unconstrained. She did not seem so +communicative as her mother,--a pretty little _old_ woman, whose pride +was evidently gratified by our admiration of her daughter's finery, and +our pleasure in sketching her as she stood; her gratitude was so great +on our allowing her boy and her bundles to be put on the carriage, that +she became quite enthusiastic in our praise; and the present of a small +piece of silver enchanted her. She actually cried with pleasure; and yet +we found she was not poor; but had been to see a son, who had amassed +several hundred francs and set up in a _cabaret_ at Mauleon: this +explained the gorgeousness of his sister's costume, which, at the risk +of spoiling, she continued to wear on her journey home to their +village, aware of the sensation her macaw-like appearance created +wherever she passed. + +On a high hill, opposite that we were mounting, we observed a chapel, +which we found was dedicated to the Sainte Madeleine, and held in much +reverence throughout the country: pilgrims coming from great distances +to visit her shrine, and sick persons thronging there in the hope of a +miracle being performed in their favour. The same occurs at another +chapel, on a neighbouring height, dedicated to St. Antoine; but there, +it seems, the young men resort, in order, by the saint's intercession, +to obtain an exemption from the chance of conscription. They entreat of +Heaven that they may choose a _good number_, and be allowed to remain at +home; and so firmly are they convinced of the efficacy of the saint's +prayers, that hundreds had, we understood, lately taken their way to the +holy mountain; for this was the season for the fatal lots to be drawn. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + ARNEGUY--THE CACOLET--ROLANDO'S TREE--SNOW-WHITE + GOATS--COSTUME--SAUVETERRE--THE PASTOR--NAVARREUX--SPANISH AIR. + + +WE arrived at St. Jean Pied de Port late in the day, and the aspect of +affairs at Le Grand Soleil, where we stopped, was by no means +exhilarating. Having passed through the black, dirty kitchen, and +climbed the dingy staircase, we were shown several rooms, which we +_could not have_, by a very sour-looking old woman, who tried to +persuade us to content ourselves with apartments without fire-places. +This we resisted determinedly, suggesting that ladies had a right to +supersede male travellers, and, assisted by the eloquence of our +invaluable _cocher_, we at length obtained possession of the disputed +chambers. As it was soon discovered that we meditated remaining several +days, no further opposition was made to our convenience, and the fat +landlady, having reproved her thin sister into good humour, we were +allowed to command, in the worst of all possible inns, where good-will +held the place of performance in most instances, and where carelessness +seemed carried to a perfectly Eastern excess. + +We began to make immediate enquiries as to the possibility of entering +Spain, of visiting the convent of Roncesvalles and the neighbouring +mountains; and every sort of contradictory information was given us, +enough to bewilder an ignorant traveller into giving up the projected +expedition altogether. However, as we resolved that we would not be +altogether disappointed, and recollected all the romances invented to +deter our daring, by our friends at Pau, we ordered a guide and +_cacolet_ and mule to be sent on before, and on the following morning +set forth in the carriage as far as Arneguy, the last French town, from +whence we were to cross the Gave of Bihobi, and trust ourselves to the +perils of a Spanish journey. + +Accordingly, we pursued the very good road to that frontier +village--one of the most miserable I ever beheld, filled with soldiers +and mud and ruin: here we alighted, and walked across the little bridge +which divides the two kingdoms. Once _in Spain_, and having made a +drawing of the spot, as a souvenir, we mounted our mule; seated +comfortably in the arm chairs, slung at each side of the patient animal, +and, with our muleteer and two servants on foot, began the scrambling +ascent of one of the most rugged paths I ever beheld. + +Every step, however, exhibited new and startling beauties; and the +further we advanced the more sublime the mountains became: the foaming +stream rushing beneath us, the deep ravines and precipices, the wooded +hills and enormous trees, all possessed a character quite unlike that of +the two valleys of Bearn, which we had already seen; both of which led +into Spain, as did this pass of Roncesvalles; but we now felt ourselves +really in another country; and, as we passed the opposite village of +Ondarol, and heard that the last houses in France were left behind, and +all the mountains, on each side of the ravine, belonged to Spain, there +was something singularly agreeable in the idea. Our _cocher Francois_ +had, at the village of Valcarlos, an opportunity of exhibiting his +knowledge of Spanish; for the officer there, who took cognizance of us, +could not understand either _patois_ or French. + +We wound along the beautiful ravine of Valcarlos, by a road more stony +and rugged than can be described, trusting to our mule, who kept his +feet in a manner perfectly surprising; it was like mounting a ruined +staircase, so steep was the path in many places; but, going slowly and +carefully as we did, and seated in our comfortable panniers, we felt no +inconvenience, and were scarcely conscious of the difficulties, sensibly +understood by all our companions, who toiled through the mud, and over +the stones and torrents with infinite cheerfulness and perseverance. + +The beeches and chesnuts here grow to an immense size, and look so old +in their winter guise that one might almost believe they had spread the +shade over the paladins of Charlemagne. We could not do otherwise than +indulge in this idea, when we reached a spot where an enormous _plateau_ +of rock seemed to bar our further progress; and, beside it, we rested +beneath a gigantic chesnut, which threw its naked arms far across the +ravine below, and, when covered with leaves, must have been a majestic +tree. A huge stone lay amongst others near it, and this was pointed out +by our guide as the identical stone thrown by Rolando in his anger when +his horse's foot slipped over the rock at the edge of which we stood. +The print made by the hoof as it slid along the surface is _clearly +visible_ to poetical eyes, and this is one of the numerous _Pas de +Roland_ so celebrated in the Pyrenees, where the great hero's course is +marked in many directions. + +As we desired to avoid the possibility of a similar accident happening +to us, we dismounted from our _cacolet_, and walked across the ledge to +some distance: and, after a short repose beneath the shelter of the +overhanging rocks, which a violent shower made most convenient at the +moment, we prepared to retrace our steps; satisfied with having advanced +so far on the same route taken by "Charlemagne and all his peerage." + +The return was infinitely less easy than the advance, for we had now to +descend; and we felt the motion much more, for the mule could not so +well keep its feet in spite of the guide's assistance. We had sundry +adventures by the way at _Posadas_--tasted the bitter Spanish +_ordinaire_ wine from a wine-skin, and the excellent maize bread and +cream cheese of the country, and returned to Arneguy, much gratified +with our trip. + +These mountains must be exquisitely beautiful in summer, when all the +fine trees are in full grandeur, for I never saw any larger or more +flourishing. It is the custom for the French to decry everything +Spanish, even to the natural productions; and I had often been told that +the moment the French side was quitted all was barren and worthless; I +found, however, on the contrary, that the mountain-scenery greatly +increased in sublimity the nearer we advanced towards Roncesvalles, and +on our return that which had looked well on our way had dwindled into +tameness in comparison with what we had left. Our driver, in the true +spirit of his country, laboured to convince us that even the Basque on +the Spanish side was inferior to that on the French--a fact we were not +in a condition to decide on, as readily as we could with respect to the +scenery. I think, as a general rule, that a foreign traveller may always +be sure, if a country is abused in France, it possesses attractions for +him, and _vice versa_; for the "toute beaute" of a French amateur is +invariably a piece of formality or common-place, unendurable to the +lovers of the really beautiful. + +Flocks of snow-white goats, with long hair, were climbing up the +steepest parts of the mountains; and a few stragglers, with their pretty +kids, greeted us on our rugged road: a party of Zingari, with scowling +brows but civil demeanor, hurried past us, with a swiftness rather +unusual to their indolent race, unless indeed they were afraid of +pursuit--as our muleteer seemed to hint by his exclamation of alarm as +they appeared. Besides these, and a traveller mounted on a mule, who +was, we understood, a rich merchant of Pampeluna, who constantly made +the _trajet_ by that bad road, we were little disturbed in our solitude. +The Gave sounding far below, the smaller brawling cataracts crossing our +rocky path, the overhanging rocks and gigantic trees, the +constantly-changing scene, and the novelty of the whole, made our wild +and strange journey altogether delightful. We were congratulated on our +return that the rain, which overtook us on our way, had not been snow; +for in these regions the path is sometimes obstructed in the course of +half-an-hour; and a sad story was related to us of a courier despatched +to Roncesvalles in sunshine, having been overwhelmed by the snow on his +return the same evening. Whether this was a _mountain_ fable we could +not be sure; but we had heard so many terrors, and experienced none, +that we found it difficult to give credit to all the histories of +travellers eaten by wolves and destroyed by avalanches, such as had +arrived at Pau from the heights of Gabas and Urdos throughout the +winter, only to be contradicted after they had had their effect for the +given time. + +From St. Jean Pied de Port--where the female costume is pretty, and +whose arsenal, and the fine view from it, are all that claim the +slightest attention in the most slovenly of ugly towns, and whose church +portal tells of former magnificence long since swept away--we took our +departure by St. Palais to Sauveterre, crossing the Pays Basque, which +is perfectly lovely as to scenery, and, in fine weather, is worth a long +journey to visit--so varied, rich, and agreeable is the country in all +directions. Sauveterre is a neat, clear, respectable town, finely +situated, well-enough paved, and having many attractions--particularly a +magnificent ruin of a strong castle, which is called that of the Reine +Jeanne, but is, evidently, originally of much more ancient construction. +One high tower is very commanding, and must have been formidable in its +time: that of the church, on still higher ground above, is of the same +date, and is very curious: on the whole, Sauveterre is as picturesque a +town as any we had seen, and we were sorry that bad weather a good deal +masked its beauties. + +We paid a visit to the Protestant church; and the minister's wife, a +very simple, kind person, who deeply regretted the absence of her +husband--gone to look after his scattered flock, which is dispersed, in +distant hamlets, all over that part of the country towards Navarreux. +This excellent man is in the habit of walking many leagues, in the +severest seasons, to visit his people, who reside by twos and threes in +villages far remote; and he seems to spare no pains in his vocation. His +establishment is of the simplest and most primitive kind, evidently +quite unknown to luxury; and the sight of the good pastor--which we were +fortunate enough to get on the morning of our departure--confirmed our +preconceived opinion of his benevolence, if countenance be a faithful +index of mind. Our interview happened in this sort. + +We had decided to leave Sauveterre early, fearing the weather, and were +just starting, when, at the carriage-door, we beheld two figures, which +we at once recognized as the returned pastor and his wife: a violent +shower greeted them; but, mindless of it, there they stood, under their +umbrellas, determined to make our acquaintance, and to thank my +companion for a donation she had sent to the poor Protestants under his +charge. His fine open, healthy countenance, and cheerful, good-humoured +expression, gentlemanlike manners, and easy address, pleased us +extremely; and the unassuming little wife, dressed in a cap like a +_bourgeoise_--joining him in kind exclamations of sorrow at losing their +friends of the moment--equally amused and gratified us with the +_naivete_ of the whole proceeding. I have no doubt that our apparition +in that solitary town was quite an event, and one which the good +minister would have been sorry to miss. He had come back late the night +before, through a deluge of rain, and by the most difficult +cross-roads--of course flooded--after walking twenty or thirty miles; +yet he had energy to rise early, dress himself in his best, and come to +meet the strangers, before their departure. + +I think he must really be a pattern of a minister, and is a worthy +example for many richer and less zealous clergymen. The French +government is not able to allow more than a thousand francs a-year to +the Protestant ministers, and out of this he no doubt gives much in +charity, for almost all his flock is poor, and I believe he has a family +to support besides: yet he seemed cheerful and contented, and probably +thinks himself well off, happy in the exercise of his duty, and in +relieving the sufferings of his fellows. + +Navarreux is a strongly-fortified little town, looking extremely +warlike, filled with troops: it would be difficult to say why, as it is +so far from the frontier; but, probably, they are ready, as at Pau, in +case of an outbreak on the part of the Spaniards, which seems +improbable, but is talked of.[55] From hence to Pau the country is +pretty; but the nearer approach to the wide, marshy lands round, renders +the prospect infinitely less interesting, and the air less refreshing. + +[Footnote 55: This has since occurred, and Espartero is in England and +Queen Christine in Spain.] + +I had now accomplished, however imperfectly, a long-entertained +intention of _visiting Spain_; and, although I had merely breathed +Spanish air _for a few hours_, yet it has given me a sort of assurance +that I shall, one day, be able to put my favourite project in +execution--of travelling over that most poetical and interesting of all +countries--at a time, I trust, when its government shall be well +established, and peace and order so prevail, that the fear of brigands +may not deter strangers from seeking its romantic cities, and crossing +its wild and wondrous mountains. + +For the present, I take leave of my readers; hoping that, in my next +tour, they will indulgently accompany me to Madrid and the Alhambra. + + + +London: +Printed by R. 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