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<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Denmark, by M. Pearson Thomson, Illustrated
by F. J. Hyldahl</h1>
<pre>
This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
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<p>Title: Denmark</p>
<p>Author: M. Pearson Thomson</p>
<p>Release Date: December 13, 2006 [eBook #20107]</p>
<p>Language: English</p>
<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DENMARK***</p>
<p> </p>
<h3>E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Ralph Janke,<br />
and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
(http://www.pgdp.net/)</h3>
<p> </p>
<div class='footnotes'>
<h2><a name="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES" id="TRANSCRIBERS_NOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">Transcriber's note:</a></h2>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_TN1_12" id="Footnote_TN1_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_TN1_12"><span class="label">[TN1]</span></a> The section of the book about Norway is not included.</p></div>
</div>
<p> </p>
<hr class="full" />
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<h2>PEEPS AT MANY LANDS</h2>
<h1><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>NORWAY</span></h1>
<h2><span title='The section of the book about Norway is not included here'>BY LIEUT.-COL. A. F. MOCKLER-FERRYMAN,
F.R.G.S., F.Z.S.<a name="FNanchor_TN1_12" id="FNanchor_TN1_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_TN1_12" class="fnanchor">[TN1]</a></span></h2>
<p class='center'>AND</p>
<h1>DENMARK</h1>
<h2>BY M. PEARSON THOMSON</h2>
<p class='center'>WITH SIXTEEN FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<h3>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h3>
<p class='center'>64 & 66 <span class="smcap">Fifth Avenue, New York</span></p>
<p class='center'>1921</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_ii' id='Page_ii' title='ii'></a><a name="DENMARK" id="DENMARK"></a>DENMARK</h2>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKETCH-MAP" id="SKETCH-MAP"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/map.png"><img src="images/map-tb.png" width="400" height="519" alt="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK." title="SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">SKETCH-MAP OF DENMARK.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_v' id='Page_v' title='v'></a><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
<h2>DENMARK</h2>
<h3><i>By M. Pearson Thomson</i></h3>
<div class='center'>
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>CHAPTER</td><td align='right'>PAGE</td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I">MERRY COPENHAGEN—I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II">MERRY COPENHAGEN—II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_6'>6</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE">HANS ANDERSEN—THE "FAIRY-TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_12'>12</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FAMOUS_DANES">FAMOUS DANES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_18'>18</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK-DANCES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_25'>25</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_32'>32</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—I</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—II</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_45'>45</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_51'>51</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET">FARM LIFE—BUTTER-MAKING—"HEDESELSKABET"</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_54'>54</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_66'>66</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_72'>72</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_78'>78</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='right'><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td align='left'><a href="#INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_83'>83</a></td></tr>
</table></div>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_vii' id='Page_vii' title='vii'></a><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
<h2>DENMARK</h2>
<h3><i>By F. J. Hyldahl</i></h3>
<div class='center'>
<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
<tr><td align='left'> </td><td align='right'>FACING PAGE</td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#THE_FLOWER_MARKET">FLOWER MARKET IN COPENHAGEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#DRAGOER_PEASANT">DRAGÖR PEASANT</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_16'>16</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CHILDREN_DAY">CHILDREN'S DAY</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_33'>33</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#HARVEST_TIME">HARVEST-TIME</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_40'>40</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#VAGT-PARADEN">VAGT-PARADEN</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_57'>57</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_64'>64</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SKAGEN_FISHERMAN">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_73'>73</a></td></tr>
<tr><td align='left'><a href="#WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST">WINTER IN THE FOREST</a></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_80'>80</a></td></tr>
</table></div>
<h4><i><a href="#SKETCH-MAP">Sketch-Map</a>, <a href="#Page_ii">page ii</a>, <a href="#DENMARK">Denmark Section</a>.</i></h4>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h1><a class='page' name='Page_1' id='Page_1' title='1'></a>DENMARK</h1>
<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER I</a></h2>
<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN—I</a></h3>
<p>Copenhagen, the metropolis of Denmark, is a large and
flourishing city, with all the modern improvements of a
commercial capital. It has an atmosphere of its own,
an atmosphere of friendliness and gaiety, particularly
appreciated by English people, who in "Merry Copenhagen"
always feel themselves at home.</p>
<p>The approach to this fine city from the North by the
Cattegat is very charming. Sailing through the Sound,
you come upon this "Athens of the North" at its most
impressive point, where the narrow stretch of water
which divides Sweden and Denmark lies like a silvery
blue ribbon between the two countries, joining the
Cattegat to the Baltic Sea. In summer the sparkling, blue
Sound, of which the Danes are so justly proud, is alive
with traffic of all kinds. Hundreds of steamers pass
to and from the North Sea and Baltic, carrying their
passengers and freights from Russia, Germany, Finland,
and Sweden, to the whole world. In olden times
Denmark exacted toll from these passing ships, which
the nations found irksome, but the Danes most pro<a class='page' name='Page_2' id='Page_2' title='2'></a>fitable.
This "Sundtold" was abolished finally at the
wish of the different nations using this "King's highway,"
who combined to pay a large lump sum to
Denmark, in order that their ships might sail through
the Sound without this annoyance in future.</p>
<p>Kronborg Castle, whose salute demanded this toll in
olden days, still rears its stately pinnacles against the
blue sky, and looking towards the old fortress of
Kjärnan, on the Swedish coast, seems to say, "Our
glory is of a bygone day, and in the land of memories."</p>
<p>Elsinore, the ancient town which surrounds this castle,
is well known to English and American tourists as the
supposed burial-place of Hamlet, the Prince of Denmark
immortalized by Shakespeare. Kronborg Castle is
interesting to us, in addition, as being the place where
Anne of Denmark was married by proxy to James I.
of England. Here, also, the "Queen of Tears,"
Caroline Matilda, sister of George III., spent some unhappy
months in prison, gazing sadly over the Sound,
waiting for the English ships to come and deliver her.</p>
<p>We pass up the Sound viewing the luxuriant cool
green beech-woods of Denmark, and the pretty fishing
villages lying in the foreground. Villas with charming
gardens—their tiny rickety landing-stages, bathing
sheds, and tethered boats, adding fascination to the
homely scene—seem to welcome us to this land of fairy
tales and the home of Hans Andersen.</p>
<p>The many towers and pinnacles of Copenhagen,
with the golden dome of the Marble Church, flash a<a class='page' name='Page_3' id='Page_3' title='3'></a>
welcome as we steam into the magnificent harbour of
this singularly well-favoured city. Here she stands,
this "Queen of the North," as a gracious sentinel bowing
acquiescence to the passing ships as they glide in
and out of the Baltic. The broad quays are splendidly
built, lined with fine warehouses, and present a busy
scene of commercial activity. The warships lying at their
moorings in the Sound denote that this is the station of
the fleet; here also we see the country's only fortress—the
formidable bulwarks which surround the harbour.</p>
<p>Kjöbenhavn in Danish means "merchants' harbour,"
and as early as the eleventh century it was a trading
centre for foreign merchants attracted by the rich supply
of herrings found by the Danish fishermen in the Baltic.
Bishop Absalon was the founder of the city. This
warrior Bishop strongly fortified the place, in 1167, on
receiving the little settlement from King Valdemar the
Great, and had plenty to do to hold it, as it was continually
harassed by pirates and the Wends. These,
however, found the Bishop more than a match for them.
His outposts would cry, "The Wends are coming!"
and the Bishop would leave his preaching, his bed, or
anything else he might be doing, gather his forces
together, and fight gallantly for his little stronghold.
He perhaps recognized that this might one day be the
key to the Baltic, which it has since become.</p>
<p>This city, therefore, is not a new one, but bombardment
and conflagrations are responsible for its modern
appearance. Fortunately, some of the handsome edifices<a class='page' name='Page_4' id='Page_4' title='4'></a>
raised during the reign of Christian IV. (1588-1648)
still remain to adorn the city. This monarch was a
great architect, sailor, warrior, and King, and is one of
the most striking figures in Danish history. He was
beloved by his people, and did much for his kingdom.
The buildings planned and erected during this monarch's
reign are worthy of our admiration. The beautiful
Exchange, with its curious tower formed by four
dragons standing on their heads, and entwining their
tails into a dainty spire; Rosenborg Castle, with its
delicate pinnacles; the famous "Runde Taarn" (Round
Tower), up whose celebrated spiral causeway Peter the
Great is said to have driven a carriage and pair, are
amongst the most noteworthy. The originality in design
of the spires and towers of Copenhagen is quite remarkable.
Vor Frelsers Kirke, or Church of Our Saviour,
has an outside staircase, running round the outside of
its spire, which leads up to a figure of our Saviour, and
from this height you get a fine view of the city. The
tower of the fire-station, in which the fire-hose hangs at
full length; the copper-sheathed clock and bell tower—the
highest in Denmark—of the Town Hall; the Eiffel-like
tower of the Zoo, are among the most singular. In
all these towers there is a beautiful blending of copper
and gold, which gives a distinctive and attractive
character to the city. Other prominent features are
the pretty fish-scale tiling, and the copper and bronze
roofs of many of the buildings, with their "stepped"
gables. Charming, too, are the city's many squares and<a class='page' name='Page_5' id='Page_5' title='5'></a>
public gardens, canals with many-masted ships making
an unusual spectacle in the streets. But, after all, it is
perhaps the innate gaiety of the Copenhagener which
impresses you most. You feel, indeed, that these
kindly Danes are a little too content for national
development; but their light-hearted way of viewing
life makes them very pleasant friends, and their hospitality
is one of their chief characteristics. Every lady
at the head of a Danish household is an excellent cook
and manager, as well as being an agreeable and intelligent
companion. The Copenhagener is a "flat" dweller,
and the dining-room is the largest and most important
room in every home. The Dane thinks much of his
dinner, and dinner-parties are the principal form of
entertainment. They joke about their appreciation of
the good things of the table, and say, "a turkey is not
a good table-bird, as it is a little too much for one Dane,
but not enough for two!" A very pleasant side of
Copenhagen life has sprung up from this appreciation,
for the restaurants and cafés are numerous, and cater
well for their customers. While the Dane eats he must
have music, which, like the food, must be good; he
is very critical, and a good judge of both. This gay
café and restaurant life is one of the fascinations of
Denmark's "too-large heart," as this pleasant capital is
called by its people.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_6' id='Page_6' title='6'></a><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER II</a></h2>
<h3><a name="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II" id="MERRY_COPENHAGEN_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MERRY COPENHAGEN—II</a></h3>
<p>The climate of Copenhagen is delightful in summer,
but quite the reverse in winter. Andersen says "the
north-east wind and the sunbeams fought over the
'infant Copenhagen,' consequently the wind and the
'mud-king' reign in winter, the sunbeams in summer,
and the latter bring forgetfulness of winter's hardships."
Certainly, when the summer comes, the sunshine reigns
supreme, and makes Copenhagen bright and pleasant
for its citizens. Then the many water-ways and canals,
running up from the sea as they do into the heart of
the city, make it delightfully refreshing on a hot day.
Nyhavn, for instance, which opens out of the Kongen's
Nytorv—the fashionable centre of the town—is one of
the quaintest of water-streets. The cobbled way on
either side of the water, the curious little shops with
sailors' and ships' wares, old gabled houses, fishing and
cargo boats with their forests of masts, the little puffing
motor-boats plying to and fro—all serve to make a
distinctive picture. On another canal-side the fish-market
is held every morning. A Danish fish-market
is not a bit like other fish-markets, for the Dane must<a class='page' name='Page_7' id='Page_7' title='7'></a>
buy his fish alive, and the canal makes this possible.
The fishing-smacks line up the whole side of the quay;
these have perforated wooden boat-shaped tanks
dragging behind them containing the lively fish. The
market-women sit on the quay, surrounded by wooden
tubs, which are half-filled with water, containing the
unfortunate fish. A trestle-table, on which the fish are
killed and cleaned, completes the equipment of the fish-wives.
The customers scrutinize the contents of the
tub, choose a fish as best they can from the leaping,
gasping multitude, and its fate is sealed. When the
market-women require more fish, the perforated tank is
raised from the canal, and the fish extracted with a
landing-net and deposited in their tubs. Small fish
only can be kept alive in tanks and tubs; the larger
kinds, such as cod, are killed and sold in the ordinary
way. This market is not at all a pleasant sight, so it is
better to turn our backs on it, and pass on to the
fragrant flower-market.</p>
<p>Here the famous Amager women expose their merchandise.
This market square is a gay spectacle, for the
Dane is fond of flowers, and the Amager wife knows
how to display her bright blooms to advantage. These
vendors are notable characters. They are the descendants
of the Dutch gardeners brought over by Christian II. to
grow fruit and vegetables for Copenhagen, and settled
on the fertile island of Amager which abuts on the city.
Every morning these Amager peasants may be seen
driving their laden carts across the bridge which joins<a class='page' name='Page_8' id='Page_8' title='8'></a>
their island to the mainland. These genial, stout, but
sometimes testy Amager wives have it all their own
way in the market-place, and are clever in attracting
and befooling a customer. So it has become a saying,
if you look sceptical about what you are told, the
"story-teller" will say, "Ask Amager mother!" which
means, "Believe as much as you like." These women
still wear their quaint costume: bulky petticoats, clean
checked apron, shoulder-shawl, and poke-bonnets with
white kerchief over them; and the merry twinkle of
satisfaction in the old face when a good bargain has
been completed against the customer's inclination is
quite amusing. These interesting old characters are
easily irritated, and this the little Copenhageners know
full well. When stalls are being packed for departure,
a naughty band of urchins will appear round the corner
and call out:</p>
<div class='center'>
<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'>
"Amager mother, Amager mo'er,<br />
Give us carrots from your store;<br />
You are so stout and roundabout,<br />
Please tell us if you find the door<br />
Too small to let you through!"<br />
</td></tr></table></div>
<p>The Amager wife's wrath is soon roused, and she is
often foolish enough to try and move her bulky proportions
somewhat quicker than usual in order to catch
the boys. This of course she never manages to do, for
they dart away in all directions. By this means the
Amager woman gets a little much-needed exercise, the
boys a great deal of amusement.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="THE_FLOWER_MARKET" id="THE_FLOWER_MARKET"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus001.jpg"><img src="images/illus001-tb.jpg" width="400" height="559" alt="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN." title="THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">THE FLOWER MARKET, COPENHAGEN.</span>
</div>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_9' id='Page_9' title='9'></a>Sunday is a fête-day in Copenhagen, and the Dane feels
no obligation to attend a Church service before starting
out on his Sunday expedition. A day of leisure means
a day of pleasure to the Copenhagener. The State
helps and encourages him by having cheap fares, and
good but inexpensive performances at the theatre and
places of entertainment on Sunday. Even the poorest
people manage to spare money for this periodical outing,
mother and children taking their full share in the simple
pleasures of the day. The Copenhagener looks forward
to this weekly entertainment, and longs for the fresh
air. This is not surprising, for many homes are stuffy,
ventilation and open windows not seeming a necessity.
A fine summer Sunday morning sees a leisurely stream
of people—the Danes never hurry themselves—making
for tram, train, or motor-boat, which will carry them
off to the beautiful woods and shores lying beyond the
city. Basking in the sunshine, or enjoying a stroll
through the woods, feasting on the contents of their
picnic baskets, with a cup of coffee or glass of pilsener
at a café where music is always going on, they spend a
thoroughly happy day. In the evening the tired but
still joyous throng return home, all the better for the
simple and pleasant outing. No country uses the
bicycle more than Denmark, and Sunday is the day
when it is used most. For the people who prefer to
take their dinner at home on Sunday there is the
pleasant stroll along the celebrated Langelinie. This
famous promenade, made upon the old ramparts, over<a class='page' name='Page_10' id='Page_10' title='10'></a>looks
the Sound with its innumerable yachts skimming
over the blue water, and is a delightful place for
pedestrians. A walk round the moat of the Citadel, on
the waters of which the children sail their little boats,
is also enjoyable. This Citadel, now used as barracks,
was built by Frederik III. in 1663, and formerly served
as a political prison. Struensee, the notorious Prime
Minister, was imprisoned here and beheaded for treason.
A few narrow, picturesque streets surrounding this fort
are all that remain of old Copenhagen.</p>
<p>The art treasures contained in the museums of
Copenhagen being renowned, I must tell you a little
about them. Two or three of the palaces not now
required by the Royal Family are used to store some
of these treasures. Rosenborg Castle, built by
Christian IV., and in which he died, contains a collection
of family treasures belonging to the Oldenburg
dynasty. This historical collection of these art-loving
Kings is always open to the public. Besides Thorvaldsen's
Museum, which contains the greater portion
of his works, there is the Carlsberg Glyptotek, which
contains the most beautiful sculpture of the French
School outside France. The Danish Folk-Museum is
another interesting collection. This illustrates the life
and customs of citizens and peasants from the seventeenth
century to the present day, partly by single
objects, and partly by representations of their dwellings.
The "Kunstmusæet" contains a superb collection of
pictures, sculpture, engravings, and national relics.<a class='page' name='Page_11' id='Page_11' title='11'></a>
Here a table may be seen which formerly stood
in Christian II.'s prison. History tells how the
unhappy King was wont to pace round this table for
hours taking his daily exercise, leaning upon his hand,
which in time ploughed a groove in its hard surface.
The Amalienborg, a fine tessellated square, contains
four Royal palaces, in one of which our Queen Alexandra
spent her girlhood. From the windows of these palaces
the daily spectacle of changing the guard is witnessed
by the King and young Princes.</p>
<p>Copenhagen is celebrated for its palaces, its parks,
porcelain, statuary, art-treasures, and last, but not least,
its gaiety.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_12' id='Page_12' title='12'></a><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER III</a></h2>
<h3><a name="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE" id="HANS_CHRISTIAN_ANDERSEN_THE_FAIRY_TALE_OF_HIS_LIFE"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN, THE "FAIRY TALE" OF HIS LIFE</a></h3>
<p>I suppose the Dane best known to English boys and
girls is Hans Christian Andersen, whose charming
fairy-tales are well known and loved by them all.
Most of you, however, know little about his life, but
are interested enough in him, I dare say, to wish to
learn more, especially as the knowledge will give you
keener delight—if that is possible—in reading the
works of this "Prince of Story-tellers."</p>
<p>Andersen himself said: "My life has been so
wonderful and so like a fairy-tale, that I think I had
a fairy godmother who granted my every wish, for if
I had chosen my own life's way, I could not have
chosen better."</p>
<p>Hans C. Andersen was the son of a poor shoemaker,
an only child, born in Odense, the capital of the Island
of Funen. His parents were devoted to him, and his
father, who was of a studious turn of mind, delighted
in teaching his little son and interesting him in Nature.
Very early in life Hans was taken for long Sunday
rambles, his father pointing out to him the beauties of<a class='page' name='Page_13' id='Page_13' title='13'></a>
woods and meadows, or enchanting him with stories
from the "Arabian Nights."</p>
<p>At home the evenings were spent in dressing puppets
for his favourite show, or else, sitting on his father's
knee, he listened while the latter read aloud to his
mother scenes from Holberg's plays. All day Hans
played with his puppet theatre, and soon began to
imagine plays and characters for the dolls, writing out
programmes for them as soon as he was able. Occasionally
his grandmother would come and take the child
to play in the garden of the big house where she lived
in the gardener's lodge. These were red-letter days
for little Hans, as he loved his granny and enjoyed
most thoroughly the pleasant garden and pretty
flowers.</p>
<p>The boy's first great trouble came when his father
caught a fever and died, leaving his mother without
any means of support. To keep the little home
together his mother went out washing for her neighbours,
leaving little Hans to take care of himself.
Being left to his own devices, Hans developed his
theatrical tendencies by constructing costumes for his
puppets, and making them perform his plays on the
stage of his toy theatre. Soon he varied this employment
by reading plays and also writing some himself.
His mother, though secretly rejoicing in her son's
talent, soon saw the necessity for his doing something
more practical with his time and assisting her to keep the
home together. So at twelve years of age Hans was<a class='page' name='Page_14' id='Page_14' title='14'></a>
sent to a cloth-weaving factory, where he earned a small
weekly wage. The weavers soon discovered that Hans
could sing, and the men frequently made him amuse
them, while the other boys were made to do his work.
One day the weavers played a coarse practical joke on
poor sensitive Hans, which sent him flying home in
such deep distress that his mother said he should not
again return to the factory.</p>
<p>Hans was now sent to the parish school for a few
hours daily, and his spare time was taken up with his
"peep-show" and in fashioning smart clothes for his
puppets. His mother intended to apprentice her son
to the tailoring, but Hans had fully made up his mind
to become an actor and seek his fortune in Copenhagen.
After his Confirmation—on which great occasion he
wore his father's coat and his first new boots—his
mother insisted on his being apprenticed without
further delay. With difficulty he finally succeeded in
persuading her to let him start for the capital with his
few savings. His mother had married again, so could
not accompany him; therefore, with reluctance and with
many injunctions to return at once if all did not turn
out well, she let him go. Accompanying him to the
town gate, they passed a gipsy on the way, who, on
being asked what fortune she could prophesy for the
poor lad, said he would return a great man, and his
native place would be illuminated and decorated in his
honour!</p>
<p>Hans arrived in Copenhagen on September 5, a date<a class='page' name='Page_15' id='Page_15' title='15'></a>
which he considered lucky for ever after. A few days
in the city soon saw an end to his money. He applied
and got work at a carpenter's shop, but was driven away
by the coarseness of his fellow-workers. Hans made a
friend of the porter at the stage-door of the theatre, and
begged for some employment in the theatre; so occasionally
he was allowed to walk across the stage in a
crowd, but obtained scanty remuneration, and the lad
was often hungry. Starving and destitute, the happy
idea occurred to our hero to try and earn something by
his voice. He applied to Siboni, the Director of the
Music School, and was admitted to his presence whilst
the latter was at dinner. Fortunately for Hans,
Baggersen the poet and Weyse the celebrated composer
were of the party, so for their amusement the boy was
asked to sing and recite. Weyse was so struck by the
quality of his voice and Baggersen with his poetic feeling,
that they made a collection among them there and
then for him, and Siboni undertook to train his voice.
Unfortunately, in six months' time his voice gave way,
and Siboni counselled him to learn a trade. Hans
returned to the theatre in the hope of employment, and
his persistence finally gained him a place in a market
scene. Making a friend of the son of the librarian, he
obtained permission to read at the library, and he wrote
tragedies and plays, some of which he took to the
director of the theatre. This man became Andersen's
friend for life, for the grains of gold which he saw in
his work, marred though it was by want of education,<a class='page' name='Page_16' id='Page_16' title='16'></a>
roused his interest. The director brought Andersen to
the notice of the King, and he was sent to the Latin
school, where he took his place—although now a grown
man—among the boys in the lowest class but one. The
master's tongue was sharp, and the sensitive youth was
dismayed by his own ignorance. The kindness and
sympathetic encouragement of the director was the only
brightness of this period of Hans' life. University
life followed that of school, and Andersen took a good
degree. He now wrote a play, which was accepted and
produced at the theatre with such success that he wept
for joy. Soon his poems were published, and happiness
and prosperity followed. Later the King granted him
a travelling stipend, of forty-five pounds a year, and
travelling became his greatest pleasure. Andersen
visited England two or three times, and reckoned
Charles Dickens among his friends. He was the
honoured guest of Kings and Princes, and the Royal
Family of Denmark treated him as a personal friend.</p>
<p>Though his "Fairy Tales" are the best known of his
writings, he wrote successful novels, dramas and poems.
Andersen's tastes were simple, and his child-like,
affectionate nature made him much beloved by all.
His native town, which he left as a poor boy, was
illuminated and decorated to welcome his return. Thus
the gipsy's prophecy came true. He died after the
public celebration of his seventieth birthday, leaving all
his fortune to the family of his beloved benefactor, the
director of the theatre. A beautiful bronze monument<a class='page' name='Page_17' id='Page_17' title='17'></a>
is erected to his memory in the children's garden of
the King's Park, Copenhagen. Here the little Danes
have ever a gentle reminder of their great friend, Hans
C. Andersen, who felt—to use his own words—"like
a poor boy who had had a King's mantle thrown over
him."</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="DRAGOER_PEASANT" id="DRAGOER_PEASANT"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus002.jpg"><img src="images/illus002-tb.jpg" width="400" height="546" alt="DRAGÖR PEASANT." title="DRAGÖR PEASANT. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">DRAGÖR PEASANT.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_18' id='Page_18' title='18'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IV</a></h2>
<h3><a name="FAMOUS_DANES" id="FAMOUS_DANES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FAMOUS DANES</a></h3>
<p>Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), the famous Danish
sculptor, was born in Copenhagen. His father was an
Icelander, his mother a Dane, and both very poor.
Bertel's ambition when a little boy was to work his
mother's spinning-wheel, which, of course, he was never
permitted to do. One bright, moonlight night his
parents were awakened by a soft, whirring sound, and
found their little son enjoying his realized ambition.
In the moonlit room he had successfully started the
wheel and begun to spin, much to his parents' astonishment.
This was the beginning of his creative genius,
but many years went over his youthful head before he
created the works which made him famous. His father
carved wooden figure-heads for ships, and intended his
son to follow the same calling. Bertel, however, soon
showed talent and inclination for something better,
and was sent to the Free School of the Art Academy,
there making great progress. He received very little
education beyond what the Art School gave him,
and his youthful days were hard and poverty-stricken.
When his hours at the Academy were over he<a class='page' name='Page_19' id='Page_19' title='19'></a>
went from house to house trying to sell his models,
and in this way eked out a scanty living. In
spite of his poverty he was wholly satisfied, for his
wants were few. His dog and his pipe, both necessities
for happiness, accompanied him in all his
wanderings.</p>
<p>His true artistic career only began in earnest when
he won a travelling scholarship and went to Rome,
where he arrived on his twenty-seventh birthday.
Stimulated to do his best by the many beautiful works
of art which surrounded him, he found production easy,
and the classical beauty of the Roman school appealed
to him. Regretting his wasted years, he set to work in
great earnest, and during the rest of his life produced a
marvellous amount of beautiful work. A rich Scotsman
bought his first important work, and the money thus
obtained was the means of starting him firmly on his
upward career. This highly talented Dane founded the
famous Sculpture School of Denmark, which is of world-wide
reputation. Thorvaldsen's beautiful designs—which
were mainly classical—were conceived with great
rapidity, and his pupils carried many of them out,
becoming celebrated sculptors also. Dying suddenly
in 1844, while seated in the stalls of the theatre watching
the play, his loss was a national calamity. He
bequeathed all his works to the nation, and these now
form the famous Thorvaldsen Museum, which attracts
the artistic-loving people of all nations to the city of
Copenhagen.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_20' id='Page_20' title='20'></a>In the courtyard of this museum lies the great
man's simple grave, his beautiful works being contained
in the building which surrounds it.</p>
<p>At the top of this Etruscan tomb stands a fine bronze
allegorical group—the Goddess of Victory in her car,
drawn by prancing horses—fitting memorial to this
greatest of northern sculptors.</p>
<p>Holger Drachmann was the son of a physician, and
quite early in life became a man of letters. Following
the profession of an artist, he became a very good
marine painter. This poet loved the sea in all its
moods, and was never happier than when at Skagen—the
extreme northern point of Jutland—where he spent
most of his summers. His painting was his favourite
pastime, but poetry the serious work of his life. He
was a very prolific writer, not only of verse and lyrical
poems, but of plays and prose works, and was a very
successful playwright. Drachmann's personality was a
strong one, though not always agreeable to his countrymen.
He had a freedom-loving spirit, and lived every
moment of his life. Some of his best poems are about
the Skaw fishermen, and later in life he settled down
among them, dying at Skagen in 1907. He was a
picturesque figure, with white flowing locks, erratic and
unpractical, as poets often are. Like other famous
Danes, he chose a unique burial-place. Away at Grenen,
in the sand-dunes, overlooking the fighting waters of
the Skagerack and Cattegat, stands his cromlech-shaped
tomb, near the roar of the sea he loved so much, where<a class='page' name='Page_21' id='Page_21' title='21'></a>
time and sand will soon obliterate all that remains of
the Byron of Denmark.</p>
<p>Nikolai Frederik Grundtvig, the founder of the
popular high-schools for peasants, was born at his
father's parsonage, Udby, South Seeland. He was sent
to school in Jutland, and soon learned to love his wild
native moors. While attending the Latin School in
Aarhus he made friends with an old shoemaker, who
used to tell him interesting stories of the old Norse
heroes and sagas, often repeating the old Danish folk-songs.
The lad being a true Dane, a descendant of
the old vikings, he soon became very interested in the
history of his race. Being sent to the University of
Copenhagen, he chose to study Icelandic in order to
read the ancient sagas, English to read Shakespeare,
and German to read Goethe. This studious youth was
most patriotic, and the poetry of his country appealed
to him especially. Øehlenschläger's (a Danish poet)
works fired his poetical imagination.</p>
<p>Grundtvig's poems were for the people, the beloved
Jutland moors and Nature generally his theme. His
songs and poems are loved by the peasants, and used at
all their festivals. He wrote songs "that would make
bare legs skip at sound of them," and, "like a bird in
the greenwood, he would sing for the country-folk."
So successfully did he write these folk-songs, that "bare
legs" do skip at the sound of them even to-day at
every festivity. He was an educational enthusiast,
and his high-schools are peculiar to Denmark. It is<a class='page' name='Page_22' id='Page_22' title='22'></a>
owing to these that the country possesses such a
splendid band of peasant farmers. Being a priest, he
was given the honorary title of Bishop, and founded a
sect called "Grundtvigianere."</p>
<p>This noble man died in 1872, over ninety years of
age, working and preaching till the last, his deep-set
eyes, flowing white hair and beard, making him look
like Moses of old.</p>
<p>Adam Øehlenschläger, the greatest Danish dramatist
and poet, was a Professor at the University of Copenhagen,
and a marvellously gifted man. He developed
and gave character to Danish literature, and is known
as the "Goethe of the North." Some of his finest
tragedies have been translated into English. These have
a distinctly northern ring about them, dealing as they
do with the legends and sagas of the Scandinavian
people. These tragedies of the mythical heroes of
Scandinavia, the history of their race, and, indeed, all
the works of this king of northern poets, are greatly
loved by all Scandinavians. Every young Dane delights
in Øehlenschläger as we do in Shakespeare, and by
reading his works the youths of Denmark lay the
foundation of their education in poetry. This bard
was crowned Laureate in Lund (Sweden) by the
greatest of Swedish poets, Esaias Tegner, 1829.
Buried by his own request at his birth-place, Frederiksberg,
two Danish miles (which means eight English
miles) from Copenhagen, his loving countrymen<a class='page' name='Page_23' id='Page_23' title='23'></a>
insisted on carrying him the whole distance, so great
was their admiration for this King of dramatists.</p>
<p>Niels Ryberg Finsen, whose name I am sure you
have heard because his scientific research gave us the
"light-cure"—which has been established at the
London Hospital by our Queen Alexandra, who
generously gave the costly apparatus required for the
cure in order to benefit afflicted English people—was
born at Thorshavn, the capital of the Faroe
Islands. These islands are under Denmark, and lie
north of the Shetlands. His father was magistrate
there. His parents were Icelanders. At twelve years
of age Niels was sent to school in Denmark, and after
a few years at the Grammar School of Herlufholm, he
returned to his parents, who were now stationed in their
native town, Reykjavik, the capital of Iceland. Niels
continued his studies there, and when old enough
returned to Denmark to commence his medical work at
the University of Copenhagen.</p>
<p>Hitherto he had shown no particular aptitude, but
in his medical work he soon distinguished himself, and
his skill gained him a place in the laboratory. He
now began to study the effect of light as a curative
remedy. All his life Finsen thought the sunlight the
most beautiful thing in the world—perhaps because he
saw so little of it in his childhood. He had watched its
wonderful effect on all living things, being much
impressed by the transformation caused in nature by<a class='page' name='Page_24' id='Page_24' title='24'></a>
the warm life-giving rays. With observations on
lizards, which he found charmingly responsive to sun
effects, he accidentally made his discovery, and gave
to the world this famous remedy for diseases of the
skin, which has relieved thousands of sufferers of all
nations.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_25' id='Page_25' title='25'></a><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER V</a></h2>
<h3><a name="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES" id="LEGENDARY_LORE_AND_FOLK_DANCES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">LEGENDARY LORE AND FOLK DANCES</a></h3>
<p>The legend of Holger Danske, who is to be Denmark's
deliverer when heavy troubles come upon her, is one
which has its counterpart in other countries, resembling
that of our own King Arthur and the German Frederick
Barbarossa. When Denmark's necessity demands,
Holger Danske will come to her aid; till then he sits
"in the deep dark cellar of Kronborg Castle, into
which none may enter. He is clad in iron and steel,
and rests his head on his strong arms; his long beard
hangs down upon the marble table, into which it has
become firmly rooted; he sleeps and dreams. But in
his dreams he sees all that happens in Denmark. On
each Christmas Eve an angel comes to him and tells
him all he has dreamed is true, and that he may sleep
again in peace, as Denmark is not yet in real danger.
But should danger ever come, then Holger Danske
will rouse himself, and the table will burst asunder as
he draws out his beard. Then he will come forth in
all his strength, and strike a blow that shall sound in
all the countries of the world."</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_26' id='Page_26' title='26'></a>Holger Danske was the son of the Danish King
Gotrick. While he was a youth his father sent him to
Carolus Magnus, whom he served during all his wars.
Thus he came to India, where he ate a fruit which made
his body imperishable. When Denmark is near ruin,
and all her young men have been slain in defending
her, then Holger Danske will appear, and, gathering
round him all the young boys and aged men, will lead
them on to victory, routing the enemy, and thus saving
the country. When a little plant growing in the Lake
of Viborg has become a tree, so large that you can tie
your horse to it, then the time draws near when all this
will happen.</p>
<p>Once upon a time the Danes were in great trouble,
for they had no King. But one day they saw a barque,
splendidly decked, sailing towards the coast of Denmark.
As the ship came nearer the shore they saw it was
laden with quantities of gold and weapons, but not a
soul was to be seen on board. When the Danes
boarded the ship, they found a little boy lying asleep on
the deck, and above his head floated a golden banner.
Thinking that their god Odin had sent the boy, they
brought him ashore and proclaimed him King. They
named him Skjold, and he became a great and good
King. His fame was such that the Danish Kings to
this day are called "Skjoldunger." When this King
died, his body was placed on board a ship which was
loaded with treasure; and when it sailed slowly away
over the blue water, the Danes stood on the shore<a class='page' name='Page_27' id='Page_27' title='27'></a>
looking after it with sorrow. What became of the
ship no one ever knew.</p>
<p>Denmark is rich in legends. There is the legend
about the "Danebrog," Denmark's national flag, which
is a white cross on a crimson ground. This bright and
beautiful flag looks thoroughly at home whatever its
surroundings. The story goes that when Valdemar Seir
(the Victorious) descended on the shores of Esthonia
to help the knights who were hard pressed in a battle
with the heathen Esthonians (1219), a miracle befell
him. The valour of his troops soon made an impression
on the pagans, and they began to sue for peace. It
was granted, and the priests baptized the supposed
converts. Very soon, however, the Esthonians, who
had been secretly reinforcing while pretending submission,
in order to throw dust in the eyes of the too
confiding Danes, brought up their forces and commenced
fighting anew. "It was the eve of St. Vitus,
and the Danes were singing Vespers in camp, when
suddenly a wild howl rang through the summer evening,
and the heathens poured out of the woods, attacked the
surprised Danes on all sides, and quickly thinned their
ranks. The Danes began to waver, but the Prince of
Rugen, who was stationed on the hill, had time to rally
his followers and stay the progress of the enemy. It
was a terrible battle. The Archbishop Andreas Sunesen
with his priests mounted the hill to lay the sword of
prayer in the scales of battle; the Danes rallied, and
their swords were not blunt when they turned upon<a class='page' name='Page_28' id='Page_28' title='28'></a>
their enemies. Whilst the Archbishop and others
prayed, the Danes were triumphant; but when his arms
fell to his side through sheer weariness, the heathens
prevailed. Then the priests supported the aged man's
arms, who, like Moses of old, supplicated for his people
with extended hands. The battle was still raging, and
the banner of the Danes had been lost in the fight. As
the prayers continued the miracle happened. A red
banner, with the Holy Cross in white upon it, came
floating gently down from the heavens, and a voice
was heard saying, 'When this sign is borne on high
you shall conquer.' The tide of battle turned, the
Christians gathered themselves together under the
banner of the Cross, and the heathens were filled with
fear and fled. Then the Danes knelt down on the
battle-field and praised God, while King Valdemar
drew his sword, and for the first time under the folds
of the Danebrog dubbed five-and-thirty of the bravest
heroes knights." Another legend tells the fate of a
wicked Queen of Denmark, Gunhild by name. This
Queen was first the consort of a Norwegian monarch,
who, finding her more than he or his people could
stand, thrust her out of his kingdom. She made her
way to Denmark, and soon after married the Danish
King. Though beautiful, Queen Gunhild's pride and
arrogance made her hateful to her new subjects, and
her attendants watched their opportunity to rid themselves
of such an obnoxious mistress. The time came
for them when the Queen was travelling through<a class='page' name='Page_29' id='Page_29' title='29'></a>
Jutland. A sign was given to her bearers, whilst
journeying through the marshes near Vejle, to drop
her down into the bog. This was done, and a stake
driven through her body. To-day in the church at
Vejle a body lies enclosed in a glass coffin, with a stake
lying beside it, the teeth and long black hair being in
excellent preservation. This body was found in 1821,
when the marshes near Vejle were being drained for
cultivation. The stake was found through it, thus
giving colour to the tradition. Poor Queen! lost
in the eleventh century and found in the nineteenth.</p>
<h3><i>Folk-dancers.</i></h3>
<p>The Danes, like all the Scandinavians, are renowned
for their love of dancing. Lately they have revived the
beautiful old folk-dances, realizing at last the necessity
of keeping the ancient costumes, dances and songs before
the people, if they would not have them completely
wiped out. A few patriotic Danes have formed a society
of ladies and gentlemen to bring about this revival.
These are called the folk-dancers, their object being to
stimulate the love of old-time Denmark in the modern
Dane, by showing him the dance, accompanied by folk-song,
which his forefathers delighted in. Old-time
ways the Dane of to-day is perhaps a little too ready
to forget, but dance and song appeal to his northern
nature. The beautiful old costumes of the Danish
peasants have almost entirely disappeared, but those<a class='page' name='Page_30' id='Page_30' title='30'></a>
worn by the folk-dancers are facsimiles of the costumes
formerly worn in the districts they represent. These
costumes, with heavy gold embroidery, curious hats, or
pretty velvet caps, weighty with silver lace, must have
been a great addition to local colouring. The men also
wore a gay dress, and it is to be regretted that these old
costumes have disappeared from the villages and islands
of Denmark.</p>
<p>In olden times the voice was the principal accompaniment
of the dance, and these folk-lorists generally sing
while dancing; but occasionally a fiddler or flautist plays
for them, and becomes the leader in the dance. Some
of these dances are of a comical nature, and no doubt
were invented to parody the shortcomings of some local
character. Others represent local industries. A pretty
dance is "Vœve Vadmel" (cloth-weaving). In this
some dancers become the bobbins, others form the warp
and woof; thus they go in and out, weaving themselves
into an imaginary piece of cloth. Then, rolling themselves
into a bale, they stand a moment, unwind, reverse,
and then disperse. This dance is accompanied by the
voices of the dancers, who, as they sing, describe each
movement of the dance. A very curious dance is called
"Seven Springs," and its principal figure is a series of
springs from the floor, executed by the lady, aided by
her partner. Another two are called respectively the
"Men's Pleasure" and the "Girls' Pleasure." In these
both men and girls choose their own partners, and
coquet with them by alluring facial expressions during<a class='page' name='Page_31' id='Page_31' title='31'></a>
the dance. The "Tinker's Dance" is a solo dance for
a man, which is descriptive and amusing; while the
"Degnedans" is more an amusing performance in
pantomime than a dance, executed by two men. Many
more than I can tell you about have been revived by
the folk-dancers, who take a keen delight in discovering
and learning them. They are entertaining and instructive
to the looker-on, and a healthy, though fatiguing,
amusement for the dancers.</p>
<p>In the Faroe Islands the old-time way is still in vogue,
and the dance is only accompanied by the voice and
clapping of hands. Thus do these descendants of the
old vikings keep high festival to celebrate a good
"catch" of whales.</p>
<p>The old folk-songs, which were sung by the people
when dancing and at other times, have a national value
which the Danes fully realize, many being written
down and treasured in the country's archives.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_32' id='Page_32' title='32'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VI</a></h2>
<h3><a name="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS" id="MANNERS_AND_CUSTOMS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">MANNERS AND CUSTOMS</a></h3>
<p>The Danes being a polite and well-mannered race, the
children are early taught to tender thanks for little
pleasures, and this they do in a pretty way by thrusting
out their tiny hands and saying, "Tak" (Thank
you). It is the Danish custom to greet everybody,
including the servants, with "Good-morning," and
always on entering a shop you give greeting, and say
farewell on leaving. In the market-place it is the same;
also the children, when leaving school, raise their caps
to the teacher and call out, "Farvel! farvel!" In the
majority of houses when the people rise from the table
they say, "Tak for Mad"<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> to the host, who replies,
"Velbekomme."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The children kiss their parents and
say the same, while the parents often kiss each other
and say, "Velbekomme." The Danes are rather too
eager to wipe out old customs, and in Copenhagen the
fashionable people ignore this pretty ceremony. The
majority, however, feel uncomfortable if not allowed to
thank their host or hostess for their food.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="CHILDREN_DAY" id="CHILDREN_DAY"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus003.jpg"><img src="images/illus003-tb.jpg" width="400" height="509" alt="CHILDREN'S DAY." title="CHILDREN'S DAY. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">CHILDREN'S DAY.</span>
</div>
<p>A Danish lady, about to visit England for the first<a class='page' name='Page_33' id='Page_33' title='33'></a>
time, was told that here it was customary to say "Grace"
after meals. The surprise of the English host may be
imagined when his Danish guest, on rising from the table,
solemnly put out her hand and murmured the word
"Grace!" After a day or two, when this ceremony had
been most dutifully performed after every meal, the
Englishman thought he had better ask for an explanation.
This was given, and the young Dane joined
heartily in the laugh against herself!</p>
<p>The Danes begin their day with a light breakfast of
coffee, fresh rolls, and butter, but the children generally
have porridge, or "öllebröd," before starting for school.
This distinctly Danish dish is made of rye-bread, beer,
milk, cream, and sometimes with the addition of a
beaten-up egg. This "Ske-Mad"<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> is very sustaining,
but I fear would prove a little too much for those unaccustomed
to it. Øllebröd also is the favourite Saturday
supper-dish of the working-classes, with the addition of
salt herrings and slices of raw onion, which doubtless
renders it more piquant.</p>
<p>At noon "Mid-dag"<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> is served. Another peculiar
delicacy common both to this meal and supper is
"Smörrebröd," a "variety" sandwich consisting of a
slice of bread and butter covered with sausage, ham,
fish, meat, cheese, etc. making a tempting display, not
hidden as in our sandwich by a top layer of bread. The
Danes are very hospitable, and often invite poor students
to dine with them regularly once a week. Dinner<a class='page' name='Page_34' id='Page_34' title='34'></a>
consists of excellent soup (in summer made of fruit or
preserves), meat, pudding or fruit, and cream, and even
the poorest have coffee after this meal.</p>
<p>Prunes, stewed plums or apples, and sometimes
cranberry jam, are always served with the meat or
game course, together with excellent but rather rich
sauce. The Danish housewife prides herself on the
latter, as her cooking abilities are often judged by the
quality of her sauces. It is quite usual for the Danish
ladies to spend some months in learning cooking and
housekeeping in a large establishment to complete
their education.</p>
<p>"Vær saa god"<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> says the maid or waiter when
handing you anything, and this formula is repeated by
everyone when they wish you to enter a room, or, in
fact, to do anything.</p>
<p>Birthdays and other anniversaries are much thought
of in Denmark. The "Födelsdagsbarn"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> is generally
given pretty bouquets or pots of flowers, as well as
presents. Flowers are used on every joyous occasion.
Students, both men and women, may be seen almost
covered with bright nosegays, given by their friends to
celebrate any examination successfully passed.</p>
<p>Christmas Eve, and not Christmas Day, is the festive
occasion in Denmark. Everybody, including the poorest,
must have a Christmas-tree, and roast goose, apple-cake,
rice porridge with an almond in it, form the
banquet. The lucky person who finds the almond<a class='page' name='Page_35' id='Page_35' title='35'></a>
receives an extra present, and much mirth is occasioned
by the search. The tree is lighted at dusk, and the
children dance round it and sing. This performance
opens the festivities; then the presents are given,
dinner served, and afterwards the young people dance.</p>
<p>Christmas Day is kept quietly, but the day after
(St. Stephen's Day) is one of merriment and gaiety,
when the people go from house to house to greet their
friends and "skaal" with them.</p>
<p>New Year's Eve brings a masque ball for the young
folk, a supper, fireworks, and at midnight a clinking of
glasses, when healths are drunk in hot punch.</p>
<p>On Midsummer's Night fires are lighted all over the
country, and people gather together to watch the burning
of the tar-barrels. Near a lake or on the seashore
the reflections glinting on the water make a strangely
brilliant sight. On some of the fjords a water carnival
makes a pretty addition to these fires, which the children
are told have been lighted to scare the witches!</p>
<p>The Monday before Lent is a holiday in all the
schools. Early in the morning the children, provided
with decorated sticks, "fastelavns Ris," rouse their
parents and others from slumber. All who are found
asleep after a certain time must pay a forfeit of Lenten
buns. Later in the day the children dress themselves
up in comical costume and parade the streets, asking
money from the passer-by as our children do on Guy
Fawkes' Day.</p>
<p>A holy-day peculiar to Denmark is called "Store<a class='page' name='Page_36' id='Page_36' title='36'></a>-Bededag"
(Great Day of Prayer), on the eve of which
(Danes keep eves of festivals only) the church bells
ring and the people promenade in their best clothes.
"Store-Bededag" is the fourth Friday after Easter, and all
business is at a standstill, so that the people can attend
church. On Whit-Sunday some of the young folks rise
early to see the sun dance on the water and wash
their faces in the dew. This is in preparation for the
greatest holiday in the year, Whit-Monday, when
all give themselves up to outdoor pleasure.</p>
<p>"Grundlovsdag," which is kept in commemoration
of the granting of a free Constitution to the nation by
Frederik VII., gives the town bands and trade-unions
an opportunity to parade the streets and display their
capability in playing national music. "Children's Day"
is a school holiday, and the children dress in the old
picturesque Danish costumes; they then go about the
town and market-places begging alms for the sanatoriums
in their collecting-boxes. In this way a large
sum is collected for these charities.</p>
<p>"Knocking-the-cat-out-of-the-barrel" is an old
custom of the peasantry which takes place the Monday
before Lent. The young men dress themselves gaily,
and, armed with wooden clubs, hie them to the village
green. Here a barrel is suspended with a cat inside it.
Each man knocks the barrel with his club as he runs
underneath it, and he who knocks a hole big enough
to liberate poor puss is the victor. The grotesque
costumes, the difficulty of stooping and running under<a class='page' name='Page_37' id='Page_37' title='37'></a>
the barrel in them, when all your energies and attention
are required for the blow, result in many a comical
catastrophe, which the bystanders enjoy heartily. Puss
is frightened, but not hurt, and I think it would be
just as amusing without the cat, but the Danish peasants
think otherwise. Another pastime which takes place
on the same day is called "ring-riding." The men,
wearing paper hats and gay ribbons, gallop round the
course, trying to snatch a suspended ring in passing.
The man who takes the ring three times in succession is
called "King," he who takes it twice "Prince." When
the sport is over, King and Prince, with their train
of unsuccessful competitors, ride round to the farms and
demand refreshment for their gay cavalcade, of which
"Æleskiver," a peasant delicacy, washed down by a
glass of aqua-vitæ, forms a part.</p>
<p>On the eve of "Valborg's Dag" (May-Day) bonfires
are lighted, and the young Danes have a dinner and
dance given to them. Each dance is so long that it is
customary for the young men to change their partners
two or three times during the waltz.</p>
<p>A beautiful custom is still preserved among the older
peasantry: when they cross the threshold of their neighbour's
house they say, "God's peace be in this house."</p>
<p>All domestic servants, students, and other people
who reside away from home for a time, take about with
them a chest of drawers as well as a trunk. I suppose
they find this necessary, because in Denmark a chest of
drawers is seldom provided in a bedroom.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_38' id='Page_38' title='38'></a>When the first snowdrops appear, the boys and girls
gather some and enclose them in a piece of paper, on
which is written a poem. This "Vintergække-Brev,"
which they post to their friends, is signed by ink-spots,
as numerous as the letters in their name. The friend
must guess the name of the sender within a week, or the
latter demands a gift.</p>
<p>Confirmation means coming-out in Denmark. As
this is the greatest festival of youth, the young folk are
loaded with presents; then girls put up their hair and
boys begin to smoke.</p>
<p>The marriage of a daughter is an expensive affair for
parents in Denmark, as they are supposed to find all
the home for the bride, as well as the trousseau. The
wedding-ring is worn by both while engaged, as well as
after the marriage ceremony.</p>
<p>The Epiphany is celebrated in many homes by the
burning of three candles, and the children are given a
holiday on this, the festival of the Three Kings. No
doubt you know this is a commemoration of the three
wise men of the East presenting their offerings of
gold, frankincense, and myrrh to our Lord.</p>
<p>Storks are considered the sacred birds of Denmark.
These harbingers of good-luck the children take great
interest in, and more especially in the growth of the
stork family on the roof-tree.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_39' id='Page_39' title='39'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VII</a></h2>
<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_I"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—I</a></h3>
<p>Jutland is the only province left to Denmark which
can claim to be mainland, and though it is the most
northern part of the country, some of its scenery is
very beautiful.</p>
<p>The "Jyde," as the people of Jutland are called, are
proud of their birthplace, of their language, and of their
pronunciation, which the Copenhageners call "accent,"
but the Jyde declare they speak the purest Danish
in the kingdom. However this may be, I am not in a
position to judge, but I do know that I can understand
the Jyde Danish better, and that it falls upon
my ear with a more pleasing sound than does the
Danish of the Copenhageners.</p>
<p>The east coast of Jutland is quite charming, so
we will start our tour from the first interesting spot
on this route, and try to obtain a glimpse of the
country.</p>
<p>In Kolding stands a famous castle, which was partially
burnt down in 1808. This gigantic ruin is now
covered in, and used as an historical museum for war
relics.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_40' id='Page_40' title='40'></a>Fredericia is a very important place. Here that part
of the train which contains the goods, luggage, and
mails, as well as the first-class passenger carriages for
Copenhagen, is shunted on to the large steam ferry-boat
waiting to receive it. This carries it across the smiling
waters of the Little Belt. A fresh engine then takes it
across the island of Funen to the steam-ferry waiting to
carry it across the Great Belt to Korsör, on the shores
of Seeland, when a locomotive takes the train to
Copenhagen in the ordinary way. These steam-ferries
are peculiar to Denmark, and are specially built and
equipped for this work. Danish enterprise overcomes
the difficulties of transport through a kingdom of
islands by these ferries.</p>
<p>Fredericia is an old fortified town with mighty city
walls, which make a fine promenade for the citizens,
giving them a charming view of the Little Belt's sunlit
waters. In this town the Danes won a glorious victory
over the Prussians in 1849.</p>
<p>Vejle is one of the most picturesque places on the
east coast. Along the Vejlefjord the tall, straight
pines of Jutland are reflected in the cool, still depths of
blue water, and the tiniest of puffing steamers will carry
you over to Munkebjerg. The fascinating and famous
Munkebjerg Forest is very beautiful—a romantic place
in which the youthful lovers of Denmark delight.
These glorious beech woods extend for miles, the
trees sloping down to the water's edge from a high
ridge, whence you have a magnificent view of the glitter<a class='page' name='Page_41' id='Page_41' title='41'></a>ing
fjord. Most inviting are these cool green shades on a
hot summer's day, but when clothed in the glowing
tints of autumn they present to the eye a feast of
gorgeous colour. A golden and warm brown carpet
of crisp, crackling leaves underfoot, the lap of the
fjord as a steamer ploughs along, sending the water
hissing through the bowing reeds which fringe the
bank, make the soothing sounds which fall on lovers'
ears as they wander through these pleasant glades.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="HARVEST_TIME" id="HARVEST_TIME"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus004.jpg"><img src="images/illus004-tb.jpg" width="400" height="293" alt="HARVEST TIME." title="HARVEST TIME. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">HARVEST TIME.</span>
</div>
<p>In winter this forest is left to the snow and hoarfrost,
and cold, cairn beauty holds it fast for many days.</p>
<p>The pretty hotel of Munkebjerg, standing on the
summit of the ridge, which you espy through a clearing
in the trees, is reached by some scores of steps from the
landing-stage. Patient "Moses," the hotel luggage-carrier,
awaits the prospective guests at the pier. This
handsome brown donkey is quite a character, and
mounts gaily his own private zigzag path leading to
the hotel when heavily laden. His dejection, however,
when returning with empty panniers, is accounted
for by the circumstance of "No load, no carrot!" at
the end of the climb.</p>
<p>Grejsdal is another beautiful spot inland from the
fjord, past which the primitive local train takes us to
Jellinge. In this quaint upland village stand the two
great barrows, the reputed graves of King Gorm and
Queen Thyra, his wife, the great-grandparents of
Canute the Great, the Danish King who ruled over
England for twenty years. A beautiful Norman church<a class='page' name='Page_42' id='Page_42' title='42'></a>
stands between these barrows, and two massive Runic
stones tell that "Harald the King commanded this
memorial to be raised to Gorm, his Father, and Thyra,
his Mother: the Harald who conquered the whole of
Denmark and Norway, and Christianized the Danes."
Steps lead to the top of these grassy barrows, and so
large are they that over a thousand men can stand at
the top. The village children use them as a playground
occasionally.</p>
<p>Skanderborg, which is prettily situated on a lake, is
a celebrated town. Here a famous siege took place,
in which the valiant Niels Ebbesen fell, after freeing
his country from the tyrannical rule of the German
Count Gert.</p>
<p>Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, is the second oldest
town in Denmark. Its interesting cathedral is the
longest in the kingdom, and was built in the twelfth
century. The town possesses a magnificent harbour,
on the Cattegat, the shores of which make a pleasant
promenade.</p>
<p>Randers is a pretty place, with many quaint
thatched houses belonging to the sixteenth, seventeenth,
and eighteenth centuries. The Gudenaa,
Denmark's only river, skirts the town. This river is
narrow and slow-moving, as there are no heights to
give it force.</p>
<p>Hobro, situated on a fjord, wears an air of seclusion,
lying as it does far away from the railway-station. A
sail on this fjord will bring us to Mariager, the smallest<a class='page' name='Page_43' id='Page_43' title='43'></a>
town in Denmark. Renowned are the magnificent
beech-woods and ancient abbey of this tiny town. In
the surroundings we have a panoramic view of typical
Jutish scenery—a charming landscape in the sunset
glow, forest, fjord, farmsteads, and moor affording a
rich variety of still life.</p>
<p>Aalborg, the delightful old market town on the
Limfjord, is fascinating, especially at night, when its
myriad lamps throw long shafts of light across the water.
Scattered through the town are many old half-timbered
houses. These beautiful buildings, with their cream-coloured
rough-cast walls, oak beams, richly carved
overhanging eaves, and soft-red tiled roofs, show little
evidence of the ravages of time. The most famous of
these houses was built, in the seventeenth century, by
Jens Bang, an apothecary. The chemist's shop occupies
the large ground-floor room, the windows of which
have appropriate key-stones. On one is carved a man's
head with swollen face, another with a lolling tongue,
and similar grotesques.</p>
<p>To be an idler and watch the traffic going to and fro
over the pontoon bridge which spans the Limfjord is
a delightful way of passing the time. Warmed by the
sun and fanned by the breezes which blow along the
fjord, you may be amused and interested for hours by
the life that streams past you. Occasionally the traffic
is impeded by the bridge being opened to allow the
ships to pass through. Small vessels can in this way
save time and avoid the danger of rounding the north<a class='page' name='Page_44' id='Page_44' title='44'></a>
point of Jutland. If you look at your map you will
see that this fjord cuts through Jutland, thus making a
short passage from the Cattegat to the North Sea.</p>
<p>Jutland north of the Limfjord is called Vendsyssel.
Curious effects of mirage may be seen in summer-time
in the extensive "Vildmose"<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> of this district.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_45' id='Page_45' title='45'></a><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2>
<h3><a name="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II" id="A_JAUNT_THROUGH_JUTLAND_II"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">A JAUNT THROUGH JUTLAND—II</a></h3>
<p>As we pass through Vendsyssel homely farmsteads and
windmills add a charm to the landscape, while tethered
kine and sportive goats complete a picture of rural life.</p>
<p>When we arrive at Frederikshavn we come to the
end of the State railway. This terminus lies close to
the port, which is an important place of call for the large
passenger and cargo steamers bound for Norway and
other countries, as well as being a refuge for the fishing-fleet.</p>
<p>A slow-moving local train takes us across the sandy
wastes to Skagen, a straggling village, with the dignity
of royal borough, bestowed upon it by Queen Margaret,
in the fourteenth century, as a reward to the brave
fishermen who saved from shipwreck some of her kins-folk.
Skagen is a picturesque and interesting place, the
home of many artists, as well as a noted seaside resort.</p>
<p>Bröndum's Hotel, a celebrated hostelry, where the
majority of visitors and artists stay, is a delightfully
comfortable, homely dwelling. The dining-room,
adorned with many specimens of the artists' work, is a
unique and interesting picture-gallery.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_46' id='Page_46' title='46'></a>On the outskirts of the town the white tower of the
old church of Skagen may be seen peeping over the
sand-dunes. This "stepped" tower, with its red-tiled,
saddle-back roof, forms a striking feature in this weird
and lonely landscape. The church itself is buried
beneath the sand, leaving only the tower to mark the
place that is called the "Pompeii of Denmark," sand,
not lava, being answerable for this entombment. It is
said that the village which surrounded the church was
buried by a sandstorm in the fourteenth century. This
scene of desolation, on a windy day, when the "sand
fiend" revels and riots, is best left to the booming surf
and avoided by those who do not wish to be blinded.</p>
<p>To the south of Skagen lie other curious phenomena
created by this "Storm King." The "Raabjerg Miler"
are vast and characteristic dunes of powdery sand in
long ridges, like huge waves petrified in the very act of
turning over! In the neighbouring quicksands trees
have been planted, but refuse to grow.</p>
<p>Viborg, the old capital of Jutland, possesses an historically
interesting cathedral. In the crypt stands the
tomb of King Eric Glipping, as well as those of other
monarchs. The interior of the cathedral is decorated
with fine frescoes by modern artists.</p>
<p>As we journey to Silkeborg we pass through the vast
heathland, "Alhede," and are impressed by the plodding
perseverance of the heath-folk. The marvellous enterprise
of the Danes who started and have so successfully
carried out the cultivation of these barren tracts of land<a class='page' name='Page_47' id='Page_47' title='47'></a>
deserves admiration. The convicts are employed in
this work, planting, trenching, and digging, making
this waste land ready for the farmer. These men have
a cap with a visor-like mask, which can be pulled over
the face at will. This shields the face from the cold
blasts so prevalent on these moors; also, it prevents the
prying eyes of strangers or fellow-workers.</p>
<p>Many baby forests are being nursed into sturdy
growth, as a protection for farm-lands from the sand
and wind storms.</p>
<p>This monotonous-looking heath is not without beauty;
indeed, it has a melancholy charm for those who dwell
on it. The children love it when the heather is in
bloom, and spend happy days gathering berries from
out of the gorgeous purple carpet. The great stacks of
peat drying in the sun denote that this is the principal
fuel of the moor-folk.</p>
<p>From Silkeborg we start to see the Himmelbjerget,
the mountain of this flat country. It rises to a height
of five hundred feet, being the highest point in Denmark.</p>
<p>'Tis the joy and pride of the Danes, who select this
mountain and lake district before all others for their
honeymoons!</p>
<p>A curious paddle-boat, worked by hand, or a small
motor-boat will take us over the lake to the foot of
Himmelbjerget. Our motor-boat, with fussy throb,
carries us away down the narrow river which opens
into the lake. The life on the banks of the river is
very interesting. As we sail past the pretty villas, with<a class='page' name='Page_48' id='Page_48' title='48'></a>
background of cool, green beech-woods, we notice that
a Danish garden must always have a summer-house to
make it complete. In these garden-rooms the Danes
take all their meals in summer-time. The drooping
branches of the beech-trees dip, swish, and bend to the
swirl of water created by our boat, which makes miniature
waves leap and run along the bank in a playful
way. How delightfully peaceful the surrounding landscape
is as we skim over the silvery lake and then land!
The climbing of this mountain does not take long.
There is a splendid view from the top of Himmelbjerget,
for the country lies spread out like a map before us.
This lake district is very beautiful, and when the ling is
in full bloom, the heather and forest-clad hills encircling
the lakes blaze with colour.</p>
<p>At Silkeborg the River Gudenaa flows through the
lakes Kundsö and Julsö, becoming navigable, but it is
only used by small boats and barges for transporting
wood from the forests. The termination "Sö" means
lake, while "Aä" means stream. Steen Steensen
Blicher, the poet of Jutland, has described this scenery,
which he loved so much, quite charmingly in some of
his lyrical poems. He sings:</p>
<div class='center'>
<table border='0'><tr><td align='left'>
"The Danes have their homes where the fair beeches grow,<br />
By shores where forget-me-nots cluster."<br />
</td></tr></table></div>
<p>This poet did much to encourage the home industries
of the moor-dwellers, being in sympathy with them, as
well as with their lonely moorlands.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_49' id='Page_49' title='49'></a>The old-time moor-dwellers' habitations have become
an interesting museum in Herning. This little mid-Jutland
town is in the centre of the moors, so its
museum contains a unique collection from the homes of
these sturdy peasants. The amount of delicate needlework
these lonely, thrifty folks accomplished in the
long winter days is surprising. This "Hedebo" needlework
is the finest stitchery you can well imagine,
wrought on home-spun linen with flaxen thread. Such
marvellous patterns and intricate designs! Little wonder
that the best examples are treasured by the nation.
The men of the family wore a white linen smock for
weddings and great occasions. So thickly are these overwrought
with needlework that they will stand alone,
and seem to have a woman's lifetime spent upon them.
Needless to say, these family garments were handed
down as heirlooms from father to son.</p>
<p>Knitting, weaving, the making of Jyde pottery and
wooden shoes (which all wear), are among the other
industries of these people.</p>
<p>As we journey through Skjern and down the west
coast to Esbjerg, the end of our journey, we notice the
picturesque attire of the field-workers. An old shepherd,
with vivid blue shirt and sleeveless brown coat, with
white straggling locks streaming over his shoulders,
tends his few sheep. This clever old man is doing
three things at once—minding his sheep, smoking his
pipe, and knitting a stocking. The Danes are great
knitters, men and women being equally good at it.<a class='page' name='Page_50' id='Page_50' title='50'></a>
Many girls are working in the fields, their various
coloured garments making bright specks on the landscape.
Occasionally a bullock-cart slowly drags its way
across the field-road, laden with clattering milk-cans.
We pass flourishing farmsteads, with storks' nests on
the roofs. The father-stork, standing on one leg,
keeping guard over his young, looks pensively out over
the moors, thinking, no doubt, that soon it will not
be worth his while to come all the way from Egypt to
find frogs in the marshes! For the indefatigable Dalgas
has roused the dilatory Danes to such good purpose
that soon the marshes and waste lands of Jutland will
be no more.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_51' id='Page_51' title='51'></a><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER IX</a></h2>
<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS" id="THE_PEOPLES_AMUSEMENTS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE'S AMUSEMENTS</a></h3>
<p>"Have you been in Tivoli?" is the first question a
Copenhagener would ask you on your arrival in the gay
capital. If not, your Danish friend will carry you off
to see these beautiful pleasure-gardens. Tivoli is for
all classes, and is the most popular place of amusement
in Denmark. This delightful summer resort is the place
of all others in which to study the jovial side of the
Danish character. Even the King and his royal visitors
occasionally pay visits, incognito, to these fascinating
gardens, taking their "sixpenn'orth of fun" with the
people, whose good manners would never allow them to
take the slightest notice of their monarch when he is
enjoying himself in this way. To children Tivoli is
the ideal Sunday treat. Every taste is catered for at
Tivoli, and the Saturday classical concerts have become
famous, for one of the Danes' chief pleasures is good
music. Tivoli becomes fairyland when illuminated with
its myriad lights outlining the buildings and gleaming
through the trees. The light-hearted gaiety of the
Dane is very infectious, and the stranger is irresistibly
caught by it. The atmosphere of unalloyed merriment<a class='page' name='Page_52' id='Page_52' title='52'></a>
which pervades when tables are spread under the
trees for the alfresco supper is distinctly exhilarating.
These gardens have amusements for the frivolous also,
such as switchbacks, pantomimes of the "Punch and
Judy" kind, and frequently firework displays, which
last entertainment generally concludes the evening.</p>
<p>The Royal Theatre in Copenhagen is a national school
of patriotism, and the healthy spirit of its plays has an
ennobling effect on the people. Everything is Danish
here, and Denmark is the only small nation in Europe
which has successfully founded a national dramatic art.
The "Molière of the North," Ludwig Holberg, was
the father of the Danish drama, and the first to make
the people realize the beauty of their own language.
This gifted Dane was a great comedy-writer, and had
the faculty of making his fellows see the comic side of
their follies.</p>
<p>The "Royal Ballet" played at this theatre is quite
distinctive. Bournonville, its creator, was a poet who
expressed himself in motion instead of words, and these
"dumb poems" appeal strongly to the Scandinavian
character. This poet aimed at something more than
spectacular effects upon the people: his art consisted in
presenting instructive tableaux, which, while holding
the attention of his audience, taught them their traditional
history. The delicate daintiness of the Danish
ballet everyone must appreciate. The exquisite and
intricate dances, together with the magnificent tableaux,
are accompanied by wild and magical music of Danish<a class='page' name='Page_53' id='Page_53' title='53'></a>
composition. Bournonville ballets represent scenes
from classical mythology, as well as from ancient
Scandinavian history, and the Danish people are much
attached to this Northern composer of ballet. "Ei
blot til Lyst"—Not only for pleasure—is the motto
over this National Theatre door, and it is in the Ballet
School here that the young Danes begin their training.
These young folk take great pleasure in learning the
beautiful dances, as well as in the operatic and dramatic
work which they have to study, for they must serve a
certain period in this, as in any other profession.</p>
<p>Another place of amusement which gives pleasure to
many of the poorer people is the Working Men's
Theatre. Actors, musicians, as well as the entire
management, are all of the working classes, who are
trained in the evenings by professionals. The result
is quite wonderful, and proves the pleasure and interest
these working people take in their tuition, and how
their artistic abilities are developed by it. On Sundays,
and occasionally in the week, a performance is given,
when the working classes crowd into the theatre to see
their fellows perform. This entertainment only costs
sixpence for good seats, drama and farce being the
representations most appreciated. Notwithstanding
that smoking is prohibited during the performances—a
rule which you would think no Dane could tolerate,
being seldom seen without pipe or cigarette—it is a
great success, and denotes that their love of the play is
greater than their pleasure in the weed.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_54' id='Page_54' title='54'></a><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER X</a></h2>
<h3><a name="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET" id="FARM_LIFE_BUTTER-MAKINGmdashHEDESELSKABET"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FARM LIFE—BUTTER-MAKING—"HEDESELSKABET"</a></h3>
<p>Farming in Denmark is the most important industry
of the kingdom, and gives employment to half the
nation. The peasant is very enlightened and advanced
in his methods; agricultural and farm products form the
principal exports of the country. England takes the
greater part of this produce. Three or four times a
week the ships leave Esbjerg—this port being the only
Danish one not blocked by ice during some part of the
winter—for the English ports, laden with butter, bacon
and eggs for the London market. Now, why can the
Danish farmer, whose land is poorer and his climate
more severe than ours, produce so much? Education,
co-operation and the help given by the State to small
farmers lay the foundation, so the Danes will tell you,
of the farmer's prosperity. The thrift and industry of
the peasant farmer is quite astonishing. He is able to
bring up a large, well-educated family and live comfortably
on seven or eight acres of land; whereas in
England we are told that three acres will not keep a
cow! The Danish farmer makes six acres keep two
cows, many chickens, some pigs, himself, wife and<a class='page' name='Page_55' id='Page_55' title='55'></a>
family, and there is never any evidence of poverty on
these small farms—quite the reverse. The farmer is
strong and wiry, his wife fine and buxom, and his
children sturdy, well-cared-for little urchins. All,
however, must work—and work very hard—both with
head and hands to produce this splendid result. The
Danish farmer grows a rapid rotation of crops for his
animals, manuring heavily after each crop, and never
allowing his land to lie fallow as we do. On these
small farms there is practically no grass-land; hedges
and fences are unnecessary as the animals are always
tethered when grazing. Omission of hedges is more
economical also, making it possible to cultivate every
inch of land. There is nothing wasted on a Danish farm.
Many large flourishing farms also exist in Denmark,
with acres of both meadow and arable land, just as in
England; but the peasant farmer is the interesting
example of the Danish system of legislation. The
Government helps this small holder by every means in
its power to become a freehold farmer should he be
willing and thrifty enough to try.</p>
<p>The typical Danish farmstead is built in the form of
a square, three sides of which are occupied by the sheds
for the animals, the fourth side being the dwelling-house,
which is generally connected with the sheds by
a covered passage—a cosy arrangement for all, as in
bad weather the farmer need not go outside to attend
to the animals, while the latter benefit by the warmth
from the farmhouse.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_56' id='Page_56' title='56'></a>The Danes would never speak crossly to a cow or
call her by other than her own name, which is generally
printed on a board over her stall. The cow, in fact, is
the domestic pet of the Danish farm. In the winter
these animals are taken for a daily walk wearing their
winter coats of jute!</p>
<p>These small farmers realize that "Union is Strength,"
and have built up for themselves a marvellous system
of co-operation. This brings the market literally to the
door of the peasant farmer. Carts collect the farm
produce daily and transport it to the nearest factories
belonging to this co-operation of farmers. At these
factories the milk is turned into delicious butter, the
eggs are examined by electric light, and "Mr. Pig"
quickly changes his name to Bacon! These three
commodities form the most remunerative products of
the farm.</p>
<p>The Danish farmer is a strong believer in education,
thanks to the Grundtvig High-schools. Bishop
Grundtvig started these schools for the benefit of the
sons and daughters of yeomen. When winter comes,
and outside farm-work is at a standstill, the farmer and
his family attend these schools to learn new methods of
farming and dairy-work. The farmer's children are
early taught to take a hand and interest themselves in
the farm-work. The son, when school is over for the
day, must help to feed the live-stock, do a bit of spade-work
or carpentering, and perhaps a little book-keeping
before bedtime. These practical lessons develop in<a class='page' name='Page_57' id='Page_57' title='57'></a>
the lad a love of farm-work and a pride in helping on
the family resources.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="VAGT-PARADEN" id="VAGT-PARADEN"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus005.jpg"><img src="images/illus005-tb.jpg" width="400" height="493" alt="VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE
THE PALACE." title="VAGT-PARADEN. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">VAGT-PARADEN. LIFEGUARDS DRAWING UP OUTSIDE
THE PALACE.</span>
</div>
<p>Butter-making is an interesting sight at the
splendidly equipped steam-factories, and we all know
that Danish butter is renowned for its excellence.
When the milk is weighed and tested it runs into a
large receiver, thence to the separator; from there the
cream flows into the scalder, and pours over the ice
frame in a rich cool stream into a wooden vat.</p>
<p>Meanwhile the separated milk has returned through
a pipe to the waiting milk-cans and is given back to
the farmer, who utilizes it to feed his calves and pigs.
The cream leaves the vat for the churn through a
wooden channel, and when full the churn is set in
motion. This combined churn and butter-worker
completes the process of butter-making, and when the
golden mass is taken out it is ready to be packed for
the English market. The milk, on being received at
the factory, is weighed and paid for according to weight.
It takes 25 lbs. of milk to make 1 lb. of butter.</p>
<p>"Hedeselskabet" (Heath Company) is a wonderful
society started by Captain Dalgas and other
patriotic Danes, in 1866, for the purpose of reclaiming
the moors and bogs. The cultivation of these lands
seemed impossible to most people, but these few
enthusiasts with great energy and perseverance set to
work to overcome Nature's obstacles. These pioneers
have been so successful in their efforts that in less than
half a century three thousand square miles of useless<a class='page' name='Page_58' id='Page_58' title='58'></a>
land in Jutland have been made fertile. Trees have
been planted and carefully nursed into good plantations,
besides many other improvements made for the benefit
of the agriculturalist and the country generally. All
along the sandy wastes of the west coast of Jutland
esparto grass has been sown to bind the shifting sand,
which is a danger to the crops when the terrible "Skaj"<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>
blows across the land with unbroken force. Thanks to
the untiring energies of this society for reclaiming the
moors, Denmark has gained land almost equal to that
she lost in her beautiful province of Schleswig, annexed
by Prussia in the unequal war of 1864.</p>
<p>In the town of Aarhus, the capital of Jutland, a
handsome monument has been raised to the memory
of Captain Dalgas, the father of the movement for
reclaiming the moors, by his grateful countrymen.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_59' id='Page_59' title='59'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XI</a></h2>
<h3><a name="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS" id="SOLDIERS_AND_SAILORS"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">SOLDIERS AND SAILORS</a></h3>
<p>Every Danish boy knows he must undergo a period
of training as a soldier or sailor when he reaches his
twentieth year. This is because Denmark is small and
poor, and could not maintain a standing army, so her
citizens must be able to defend her when called upon.
This service is required from all, noble and peasant
alike, physical weakness alone bringing exemption.
This six or twelve months' training means a hard rough
time for young men accustomed to a refined home, but
it has a pleasant side in the sympathy and friendship of
comrades. The generality of conscripts do not love
their soldiering days, and look upon them as something
to be got over, like the measles! "Jens" is the Danish
equivalent for "Tommy Atkins," and "Hans" is the
"Jack Tar" of Denmark.</p>
<p>To see the daily parade of Life Guards before the
royal palace is to see a splendid military display. This
parade the King and young Princes often watch from
the palace windows. The crowd gathers to enjoy the
spectacle of "Vagt-Paraden" (changing the guard) in
the palace square, when the standard is taken from the<a class='page' name='Page_60' id='Page_60' title='60'></a>
Guard House and borne, to the stirring strains of the
"Fane-Marsch," in front of the palace. As the
standard-bearer marches he throws forward his legs
from the hips in the most curious stiff way. This old
elaborate German step is a striking feature of the daily
parade. When the guard is changed and the band has
played a selection of music, the same ceremony is
repeated, and the standard deposited again in its resting-place.
Then the released guard, headed by the band
playing merry tunes, march back to their barracks
followed by an enthusiastic crowd. The fresh guard
take their place beside the sentry-boxes, which stand
around the palace square. These are tall red pillar-boxes
curiously like giant letter-boxes!</p>
<p>In the Schleswig-Holstein War of 1864, the last war
Denmark was engaged in, many Danish soldiers proved
their valour and heroism in the unequal encounter.
These gallant men were buried in Schleswig, and as
the Danish colours were forbidden by the tyrannical
Prussian conquerors, the loyal Schleswigers hit upon
a pretty way of keeping the memory of their heroes
green. The "Danebrog" was designed by a cross
of white flowers on a ground of red geraniums over
each grave. In this way the kinsmen of these patriots
covered their last resting-place with the colours
of their glorious national flag, under which they
fell in Denmark's defence. In Holmens Kirke, Copenhagen,
many heroes lie buried. This building, originally
an iron foundry, was converted into a church by<a class='page' name='Page_61' id='Page_61' title='61'></a>
the royal builder, Christian IV., for the dockyard men
to worship in, and it is still used by them. This King's
motto, "Piety strengthens the realm," stands boldly
over the entrance of this mortuary chapel for famous
Danes.</p>
<p>As Denmark is a kingdom composed mainly of islands
and peninsula, she has a long line of sea-board to
defend, and a good navy is essential for her safety.
The Danes being descendants of Vikings and sea-rovers,
you may be sure that their navy is well maintained.</p>
<p>A boy who chooses the navy as his profession must
leave school at the age of fourteen years, and go for
nine months' training on a warship as a voluntary
apprentice. At the end of this time he knows whether
he likes the profession well enough to join it—if so,
two years' coaching is given to enable him to pass the
necessary examinations for entering the Naval Academy.
Here he is trained for four years, spending the four
summer months of each year in cruising. This Naval
Academy, where officers are trained, is a fine old institution,
and prides itself on the record of the famous men
it has turned out. The present King of Greece, and
many other members of the Danish Royal Family,
have also been trained at this Academy. The Academy
course is expensive, and as promotion is slow, and pay
small in the navy, the Lieutenants are sometimes permitted
to captain a ship in the merchant service for
three years. This they are glad to do, as it increases<a class='page' name='Page_62' id='Page_62' title='62'></a>
their pay and knowledge of navigation. Denmark
being too small to maintain a large cruising fleet, these
officers would have little opportunity of proving their
sailing powers without this arrangement.</p>
<p>When cruising, the high spirits of the young cadets
sometimes lead them into mischief, thereby bringing
trouble upon their heads. I knew a naval captain who
hit upon a very original and effective form of punishment
for wrong-doers. The cadet cap is a blue "tam-o'-shanter"
with the usual woolly bob of the same
colour on the top. "The naughty boys shall have a
red bob," said the "Kaptejn," "and thus be branded
for misdemeanour!" The culprits disliked this badge
intensely, I imagine mostly because their comrades
derisively admired the colour which made them conspicuous.
One day royalties were being shown over
the ship, and a young Princess asked "why some of the
boys had those pretty red tufts on their caps?" You
may imagine the chagrin and confusion of the culprits;
scarlet faces and crimson tufts told their own tale!
The boys, you may be sure, thought twice in future
before risking another penitential week of branding and
ridicule for breach of discipline.</p>
<p>In Copenhagen one of the discarded warships is used
as public restaurant and training-school for ships' cooks.
Here the sailor-men are taught every branch of cooking
and kitchen-work. When trained, these cooks are
employed on the merchant-ships, as well as on the
men-of-war.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_63' id='Page_63' title='63'></a>Some interesting stories are told of the naval heroes
of Denmark which you will like to hear. Peder Tordenskjold
is the Nelson of Denmark. This man, besides
being a great Admiral, was a most genial character,
and had a striking and original personality. Many
true tales are told about this hero which the young
Danish lads never tire of hearing. There is a favourite
one which tells of the ingenious way by which he
discovered the weak points in his enemy's stronghold.
Dressing himself as a fisherman, he accompanied two
other fishers in a little rowing-boat laden with fish
to the enemy's shores. Taking a basket of fish, he
mounted the hill to the fort, saying he had brought the
fish for the commandant. He was allowed to pass
in to the fort with his fish, and, pretending stupidity,
kept losing his way—gaining knowledge thereby—till
he reached the commandant's residence. Gaining permission
from the latter to supply the garrison with
fish, he inquired for how many men he should provide.
"Let me see," said the commandant, half to himself,
"a hundred guns—two hundred men; you may bring
fish for a hundred men." Tordenskjold then left the
fort, having obtained all the information he required,
and returned to his boat. At this moment the
captain of one of the ships lying in the bay arrived on
shore, and the pretended fisherman at once accosted
him, asking permission to serve his men with fish.
This being granted, he at once rowed to the ship, where
he soon disposed of his fish, and conversing with the<a class='page' name='Page_64' id='Page_64' title='64'></a>
sailors, he gained the information that in two days' time
there would be a great festivity held on shore, at which
most of them would be present. With this valuable
knowledge he returned to his own shore from the
Swedish coast, and laid plans which gave Denmark a
victory and proved fatal to the Swedes. In Holmens
Kirke, where this hero lies buried, a splendid black
marble tomb has been erected to his memory by
King Frederik IV. Near by lies another naval hero,
Niels Juel, whose gilt and copper coffin is surmounted
by a tablet which tells of his brave deeds.</p>
<p>Captain Hvitfeldt, the hero of Kjöge Bay, blew up
his ship with three hundred men to save the Danish
fleet from destruction. In the war of 1710, between
Denmark and Sweden, this captain's ship, the <i>Danebrog</i>,
took fire. To save the ships which were being
driven by the wind towards his burning vessel, he and
his gallant crew sacrificed their lives.</p>
<p>Herluf Trolle was a Danish noble and a famous
Admiral, who left all his wealth to found a school
for orphans. His noble wife, Fru Bergitta, was
greatly distressed that the Admiral's will could not be
found, as she was most anxious that his wishes, which
were also her own, with regard to the school, should be
carried into effect. The Admiral's relatives would
inherit the property, and were already clamouring for
it, when one night Fru Bergitta had a dream. She
dreamed she saw someone walking round her husband's
writing-table, attentively inspecting the legs. These<a class='page' name='Page_65' id='Page_65' title='65'></a>
she examined on awakening, and found one to be
hollow. Discovering a secret spring, she pressed it,
and beheld the will lying in the hollow space. So
Herluf Trolle's school was founded, and although this
brave old Admiral died from wounds received in battle
centuries ago, yet his school is considered to be one of
the best at the present day.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND" id="SUNDAY_IN_THE_ISLAND"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus006.jpg"><img src="images/illus006-tb.jpg" width="400" height="556" alt="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ." title="SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">SUNDAY IN THE ISLAND OF LÆSÖ.</span>
</div>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_66' id='Page_66' title='66'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XII</a></h2>
<h3><a name="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES" id="THE_PEOPLE_OF_THE_ISLES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">THE PEOPLE OF THE ISLES</a></h3>
<p>One of the most storm-swept and barren of Denmark's
many islands is the island of Fanö. Lying, as it does,
exposed to the full force of the North Sea gales, it yet
serves to protect the harbour of Esbjerg from these
storms. It is eight miles long, and three miles at its
broadest part. A trim little steamer will carry you
across from Esbjerg to Nordby—the fishing town on
the east coast of Fanö—in twenty minutes. Nordby
is both quaint and picturesque. The low thatched
houses, with rough-cast, whitewashed walls, nestle close
to each other for shelter from the winds.</p>
<p>The Fanö women have a practical but peculiar
costume; the thickly-pleated skirt has a bright-coloured
border, while the close-fitting bodice is adorned with
embroidery, and pretty antique buttons. A folded
cotton kerchief and accordion-pleated apron give a
daintiness to the whole dress. The head-dress, however,
gives the most singular finish to the costume. A
dark, checked-bordered handkerchief tied over a stiff,
cambric frame, entirely envelops the head. The four
ends of this handkerchief are tied in an odd way, two<a class='page' name='Page_67' id='Page_67' title='67'></a>
being left upstanding like rabbits' ears! This striking
head-dress gives the Fanö wife a fantastic appearance.
When the good-natured, smiling faces of these women
are hidden behind a mask, the combination of dress and
mask makes them awesome-looking folk. The men of
the island are nearly all fishermen; the women are the
farmers, and it is to protect their faces from the blinding
sand-storms, while working on the land, that
these masks are worn. This mask obliterates all
comeliness, for only the eyes peep out from the weird
face-protector.</p>
<p>This island of heath, dune, and quicksand is wild and
romantic. The cultivated fields are protected by sand-hills,
and belts of stunted, wind-swept trees that afford
some slight protection to the crops. The island belongs
to the people, who cultivate it assiduously. The courage
and perseverance of these women agriculturalists is
rewarded by fair crops, notwithstanding an adverse
climate.</p>
<p>At the south end of the island, far away from any
dwelling, is the interesting "Fugleköjerne,"<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> where
three or four hundred wild-duck are taken in a day
during the season. Decoy-ducks are used for this
purpose.</p>
<p>The west side of the island is the most fashionable
watering-place in Denmark. Large hotels and pretty
villas line the shore, and here the well-to-do Danes
inhale bracing sea-breezes.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_68' id='Page_68' title='68'></a>On a windy day this western shore is not amusing.
Clouds of blinding sand whirl high in the air, while
the booming surf rolls and plunges on the beach with
deafening roar, and makes rank and fashion fly to
shelter in hotel or villa till the storm is over. Visitors
in summer and storms in winter have it all their own
way on this west coast—the people of Fanö trouble
it not.</p>
<p>Bornholm, situated in the middle of the Baltic, is
both beautiful and fertile. Its products are very
valuable to Denmark. From here comes the clay of
which the exquisite Copenhagen porcelain is made.
Here, too, the granite for building the country's
defences and docks is quarried. I fancy if you were
to ask a young Dane what Bornholm is most famed for
he would say, "Turkeys," for the island supplies the
Copenhagen market with these birds.</p>
<p>The chief town, Rönne, is charming, with its many
low-roofed houses, which overlook the Baltic. It is
noted for its terra-cotta ware, clocks, and Museum of
Antiquities.</p>
<p>Most of the towns are upon the coast. Four
singular round churches, built of granite, were formerly
used as places of refuge for the people when beset
by pirates. These "Rundkirker" are peculiar to
Bornholm.</p>
<p>A high festival is celebrated every year on the anniversary
of the day when the inhabitants succeeded in
throwing off the Swedish yoke, which they had borne<a class='page' name='Page_69' id='Page_69' title='69'></a>
for a short time in the seventeenth century with resentment.</p>
<p>Hammershus Castle, on the northern extremity of
Bornholm, was built in the thirteenth century. There
is a sad tale connected with this romantic castle, about
a Danish noble and his wife. This noble, Corfitz
Ulfeldt, was imprisoned there for treason. His beautiful
wife, Eleonora, the favourite daughter of Christian IV.,
accompanied him, preferring imprisonment with him
to liberty without him. After the Count died, Eleonora,
who had a mortal enemy in Queen Caroline Amalia,
was sent by the latter to the "Blaataarn"<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> of Slotsholmen,
Copenhagen, and there incarcerated for twenty-two
years. The illustrious Eleonora was only liberated on
the death of the vindictive Queen, but the long years
of captivity—without reason—had wrecked her life.</p>
<p>Læsö is a small island in the Cattegat, the inhabitants
of which are mainly farmers and fishermen, and the old
women wear a particular costume for Sunday, which is
called the "church costume."</p>
<p>The people of Amager are great market-gardeners.
They are of Dutch extraction. Christian II., after flying
from his country, took refuge in Holland, and some of
the Dutch helped him in trying to regain his throne.
For this service he gave his Dutch followers the island
of Amager. The descendants of these Dutch people
still retain their old customs and characteristics. Clattering
about in wooden shoes, the old women, in quaint<a class='page' name='Page_70' id='Page_70' title='70'></a>
costume, may be seen driving their geese down the
picturesque streets to the meadows. Besides being
market-gardeners and florists, these Amager folk rear
and fatten the geese for the Christmas market.</p>
<p>The natural beauty of the island of Möen is striking,
and unlike the rest of Denmark. "Möen's Klint" are
great, jagged white cliffs rising abruptly from the sea.
Enchanting beech-woods thickly crown the summit,
giving distinctive and unusual beauty to it. From
Sommerspiret, the highest point, we have an extensive
view over the Østersöen and Köjge Bay, where the
famous victory over the Swedes was won by Niels Juel
in 1677.</p>
<p>In Denmark the town-crier beats a drum to draw
attention to the notice he is about to give.</p>
<p>Danish postmen present a gorgeous appearance, in
red coats, with smart cloaks of the same brilliant hue
for winter wear. These and the bright yellow mail-vans,
which they drive sometimes, arrest attention, and give
importance to the carriers of His Majesty's mails.</p>
<p>In many of the houses the "Forhöjning" is still used.
This is a raised platform close to the window, on which
the lady of the house sits to do her embroidery. While
she is here she can follow all that goes on in the street
below by an ingenious arrangement of oblique convex
mirrors fixed to the outside of the window, and reflecting
the life in the streets both ways.</p>
<p>The numerous pretty articles made of amber, which
adorn the ladies' dressing-tables, and of which beads and<a class='page' name='Page_71' id='Page_71' title='71'></a>
ornaments for the girls are composed, are of local
manufacture, amber being found in quantities on the
west coast of Jutland.</p>
<p>In the islands of Funen and Seeland there are many
grand old manor-houses belonging to the nobility,
whose fine estates give employment to many peasants.
A story is told of a certain noble, Christian Barnekow
by name, who saved his King, Christian IV., by his
heroic self-sacrifice. The King had lost his horse, and
was on the point of being killed or made prisoner when
Barnekow came to his rescue. Giving the King his own
horse, he said, "I give my horse to my King, my life to
the enemy, and my soul to God." A street in Copenhagen
is called after this brave nobleman "Kristenbernikovstrade."</p>
<p>It is characteristic of the Danes to run words into
each other, and streets in Denmark often have prodigiously
long names.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_72' id='Page_72' title='72'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIII</a></h2>
<h3><a name="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT" id="FISHERMEN_AT_HOME_AND_AFLOAT"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FISHERMEN AT HOME AND AFLOAT</a></h3>
<p>The class of people most lauded by their own and
other nations is that of the brave and hardy fishermen
of Denmark. These men are always willing to man
the life-boat and to risk their lives to save those in
peril on the dangerous coast of Jutland. Although
hundreds of ships are wrecked on this dreaded
"Jernkyst" (iron coast), their crews are invariably
saved by these courageous men. The whole length of
the west coast of Jutland is bleak and exposed to the
storms and fogs of the North Sea. Not one single
harbour of refuge can be found between Esbjerg and
the Skaw. Dangerous sandbanks and massive cliffs
guard the coast, making navigation both difficult and
hazardous. All along this perilous coast life-saving
apparatus of the newest and best type is stored in
the life-boat houses placed at intervals close to the
seashore. On stormy nights the watching sentinels
summon by telephone the fishermen of the tiny hamlets
near. At sound of a rocket the distressful cry, "A
wreck, a wreck!" runs over the telephone, and immediately
brave hearts and hands are putting off to the<a class='page' name='Page_73' id='Page_73' title='73'></a>
rescue, while trembling women anxiously wait their
husbands' return with warm restoratives for the saved.
These fishermen's wives are brave too, for it is anxious
work waiting and watching. It is not to be wondered
at that this merciless and cruel coast is dreaded by all
seamen. How thankful they must feel when they see
the great lighthouse at Grenen—the northernmost point
of Jutland—and can signal "All's well!" "Alt vel!
passeret Grenen" flash the lights across the water, and
both passengers and crew breathe a little more freely
if it has been a stormy passage. Something like eighty
thousand vessels pass by this coast in a year, so you
may be sure the gallant fishermen of Denmark who live
on the iron coast have plenty of rescue work to do.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN" id="SKAGEN_FISHERMAN"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus007.jpg"><img src="images/illus007-tb.jpg" width="400" height="520" alt="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH." title="SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">SKAGEN FISHERMAN NEAR THE TOWER OF BURIED CHURCH.</span>
</div>
<p>You should see this coast on a stormy day, more
especially at Grenen, where those two mighty seas, the
Skagerack and Cattegat, meet. When the tempest
rages here, far as eye can see a long ridge of seething,
tossing water denotes the meeting-place of the currents.
The great "white horses" in battle array fight, plunge,
and roar—each striving for the mastery which neither
gains. This wrestling-match is a splendid spectacle to
those who are safe on shore, also to those at sea if the
day is clear, because they can then give the reef a wide
berth. Tossing spray is thrown high into the air and
wind-borne to the shore, so even at a distance from the
waves you may have a salt shower-bath should you be
able to "keep your legs" against the fury of the gale.
The screaming gulls which fly around, dipping and<a class='page' name='Page_74' id='Page_74' title='74'></a>
rising, enjoying as only "storm-birds" can the roar
and tumult of these tempestuous waters, enhance the
fierce loneliness of the scene. This awe-inspiring
"Nature-barrier" saddens you—even while you exult
in the madness of its fury—when you think what it
means on a foggy night to the poor mariner. What
a comfort for the seafarer to know that there is such a
famous race of fishermen here, willing and ready to
man the life-boat and rescue them from the angry,
engulfing waters! You would never guess these seas
could be otherwise than kind when you enter their
smiling depths for a swim on a calm, sunny day. How
gentle and invigorating they can be the fishermen as
well as the visitors know, and any morning you may
see the former returning from their daily dip with
dripping heads and towels along the shore. Somehow
these fishermen are always picturesque. In the summer
evening, sitting or lying on the sunlit beach, smoking
their cutty-pipes and waiting for the time to launch
their boats for the fishing, they make an impressive
picture. Kindly blue eyes and weather-beaten faces
look at you from under the sou'westers, while blue
jerseys, long sea-boots with curled-over tops and oil-skins,
complete the sea-going outfit. Fully equipped,
they charm the eye of the most fastidious, and it is
little wonder that they have become subjects for famous
artists and poets.</p>
<p>These fishermen are very devout, and before launching
their boat they all stand round it with clasped<a class='page' name='Page_75' id='Page_75' title='75'></a>
hands and bowed heads, offering up a short, silent
prayer for help and protection on these dangerous
waters. Then, pushing the boat out into the water,
they jump in while it floats—sea-boots getting wet in
the process—and wave farewell to their children on the
shore, who cry in return "Farvel Fa'er!"</p>
<p>Lars Kruse, the late captain of the life-boat at Skagen,
has had a beautiful monument raised to his memory,
and his son will show you with great pride the cups
and medals he left behind as mementoes of his brave
deeds. These medals have been presented by many
different nations whose sea-farers have been saved by
him. Amongst these is one given by Queen Victoria.</p>
<p>Captain Larsen, a well-known mariner, who, on
retiring from his post on one of the light-ships, settled
at Old Skagen, has left a unique collection to the
village. This now constitutes a museum of exquisitely
carved furniture, much of it inlaid with ivory, marbles
and metals in dainty designs, all made by this old sailor
during the last twelve years of his life—a wonderful
record of industry. Old Skagen is a quaint fisher-village,
nestling behind the sand-dunes, trying to shelter
itself from the sand and sea-storms to which these
shores are subjected.</p>
<p>Many of these fisher-folk are farmers also, tilling and
cultivating the heath-lands which lie beyond the village.
The fisher cottages are quite pretty, with thatched or
red-tiled roofs, white or buff rough-cast walls, green
painted doors and windows, with black painted founda<a class='page' name='Page_76' id='Page_76' title='76'></a>tions
which protect them from the sand. Bright
flowering plants in the windows and the neat and
clean appearance of the whole betoken the joy and
comfort that reigns in the fisherman's home. Many
household duties are performed at the cottage door in
the sandy enclosure surrounding the little homestead.
Here the old men mend the nets, keeping a watchful
eye on the babies, while the women clean and salt the
fish, hanging them up in rows to dry in the sun. In
these garden enclosures, also, many quaintly pretty
miniature houses may be seen erected on tall poles.
These are to encourage the starlings and other songsters
to settle in them, as there are no trees. Hen-roosts
and outhouses are adorned with the name-boards of
wrecked boats washed up on the shore, while discarded
boats turned over and tarred make the roofs of these
curious shelters worthy of royal hens!</p>
<p>The older fishermen have a safe and effective way of
trawling from the strand. Putting out in a small boat,
taking their net with them, to which a long rope is
attached—the end of this being left in charge of the
fishermen on the shore—they row gaily over the water,
paying out the rope as they go. When the limit of
this rope is reached, the men drop their weighted net
overboard and pull for the shore, bringing with them
another attached rope which is paid out till they reach
the strand. When they have landed and the boat is
beached, half a dozen men or more take hold of each
rope—these are fastened to each side of the submerged<a class='page' name='Page_77' id='Page_77' title='77'></a>
net—and begin hauling it to the shore. The straining
muscles of the men as they march up the beach with a
strong, steady, overhand pull on the rope denotes that
this is heavy work. It is a grand sight! As the net
nears the shore the gleaming, glittering mass of fish can
be seen leaping and jumping in vain endeavour to escape
from their prison, only the smaller fry succeeding. At
last the net with its silver load reaches the shore with
the noise as of a great wave breaking upon the beach,
which is caused by the efforts of the fish to gain their
freedom. The best fish are picked out and the others
returned to the sea, while the gulls swoop down with
querulous cry and gobble all that float on the surface
of the water. These fishermen have a prejudice against
skate, and use it only for bait.</p>
<p>St. Clement is the patron saint of Danish fishermen,
and many of the churches in the coast towns are dedicated
to him.</p>
<p>As the Cathedral of Aarhus is dedicated to St. Clement,
the Skaw fishermen have given an exquisite model of a
ship to the church. This ship is a perfect representation
in miniature of a man-of-war. It was made in
Holland for Peter the Great, but the ship which carried
it was wrecked near Grenen, and the model was saved
by the Skaw fishermen.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_78' id='Page_78' title='78'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XIV</a></h2>
<h3><a name="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY" id="YOUTHFUL_DANES_AT_WORK_AND_PLAY"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">YOUTHFUL DANES AT WORK AND PLAY</a></h3>
<p>Denmark is renowned for its educational system and
for its schools. These schools are all under Government
control, and meet the wants of every class. The
authorities are upheld by the parents, both being
determined there shall be no such thing as an ignoramus
in Denmark, so whether the children are educated at
home or sent to school, they must begin lessons at the
age of seven. If they have a governess at home the
parents must give a guarantee to the authorities that
the governess is efficient and capable of giving the
standard education to the children. Should parents
elect to take their children abroad during the school
term, they must notify their intention, undertaking that
a teacher shall accompany them and lessons continue
while away. Shirking lessons is quite an impossibility
for little Danes, as everybody thinks that education
comes before all else, so parents do not encourage
idleness or extra holidays during the school year.</p>
<p>School attendance is compulsory for all children
between the ages of seven and fourteen. The hours
are not long nor wearisome, as the lessons are arranged<a class='page' name='Page_79' id='Page_79' title='79'></a>
with a view to holding the attention of young minds
during the period of instruction. The classes are
small, even in the free schools, never more than thirty-five
pupils to a teacher, and generally less. The lesson
lasts forty minutes, and then there is an interval for play.
The thorough education of the pupils for their future
work in life is considered, so lessons in writing, reading,
and arithmetic, in the Kommune schools, are varied by
tailoring lessons for boys, and cookery for girls, after
they are ten years of age. At every school gymnastics
play an important part—pleasant lessons these are for
all—but perhaps the lesson the boys most delight in
is their instruction in Slöyd. Each lad has his carpenter's
bench with necessary tools, and as we know every boy
is happy when making or marring with hammer and nails,
I am sure you will think these must be enviable lessons.
I have seen some charming models as well as useful
things made by the boys—a perfect miniature landau,
complete in every detail, benches, bureaux, carts, tables,
chairs, besides many other serviceable articles. Besides
this pleasure-work at school, the boys, if they are
farmers' sons, have practical lessons at home by helping
their father on the farm. The authorities being anxious
to help the farmer, they allow him to keep a boy at
home half the day for instruction in farm-work, but the
other half must be spent at school. The prizes at the
municipal schools not infrequently consist of clothes,
watches, clocks, or tools, all of which are worked for
eagerly by the pupils.</p>
<p><a class='page' name='Page_80' id='Page_80' title='80'></a>The boys and girls of Denmark begin early with
gymnastic exercises, and soon become sturdy little
athletes from sheer love of the exhilarating practice. All
Danes pride themselves—and with good reason—on
their national athletic exercises. At the Olympic
Games, held at the Stadium in London, the Danish
ladies carried away the gold medal by their fine
gymnastic display. This was a triumph with so many
competitors in the field. It is an amusing sight to see
the Danes at a seaside resort taking their morning
swim; each one on leaving the water runs about on
the sun-warmed beach, and goes through a gymnastic
display on his own account, choosing the exercise
he considers most calculated to warm and invigorate
him after his dip. The children require no second
bidding to follow father's example, and as they emerge
from the water breathless, pantingly join in the fun.
Sons try to go one better than the father in some
gymnastic feat which the latter's stoutness renders
impossible! The merry peals of laughter which
accompany the display speak eloquently of the thorough
enjoyment of all the bathers.</p>
<p>Yachting in Denmark is not merely a pleasure for
the rich, it is inexpensive, so all classes and every man
capable of sailing a boat can enjoy it. In the summer-time
the Sound and other waters seem alive with the
multitudes of white sails and speeding craft of all sizes.
The Øresund Week, as the Royal Yacht Club's regatta-week
is called, is the time of all others for yachtsmen to<a class='page' name='Page_81' id='Page_81' title='81'></a>
display their skill, and a gay event in the Copenhagener's
year. The pleasant waters of Denmark are beloved of
yachtsmen. Sailing round the wooded islands, you are
impressed by their picturesque beauty, which is seen to
advantage from the water. One is not surprised that
this popular pastime comes first with every Danish boy,
who, whether swimming, rowing, or sailing, feels
perfectly at home on the water. Everybody cycles in
Denmark. Cycle-stands are provided outside every shop,
station, office, and college, so that you have no more
difficulty in disposing of your cycle than your umbrella.</p>
<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"><a name="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST" id="WINTER_IN_THE_FOREST"></a>
<a class='fig' href="images/illus008.jpg"><img src="images/illus008-tb.jpg" width="400" height="488" alt="WINTER IN THE FOREST." title="WINTER IN THE FOREST. (click to enhance)" /></a>
<span class="caption">WINTER IN THE FOREST.</span>
</div>
<p>Football is a summer game here—spirited matches
you would think impossible at this season—but the
Danes have them, and what is more, they will inform
you that they quite enjoy what appears to the spectator
a hot, fatiguing amusement. Cricket has few attractions
for the Danish lads, but that is because they
cannot play, though their schoolmasters and parents
would have them try. All things English are much
admired, and when a Dane intends to do a thing he
generally succeeds, so we can only suppose he is too
indifferent about cricket—although it is an English
game—to excel.</p>
<p>Golf and hockey are also played, and "bandy"—<i>i.e.</i>,
hockey on the ice—is a favourite winter sport. A
"bandy" match is quite exciting to watch. The
players, armed with a wooden club, often find the ice a
difficulty when rushing after the solid rubber ball. This
exhilarating game is known in some parts of the world<a class='page' name='Page_82' id='Page_82' title='82'></a>
as "shinty." The Danes are proficient skaters, and of
late years an artificial ground for winter sport of all
kinds has been made in the Ulvedal, near Copenhagen.
Here they have "bandy" matches, ski-ing, and tobogganing,
as well as other winter games. Fox-hunting is
unknown in Denmark, but frequently foxes are included
in the sportsman's bag when shooting. These
are shot because it is necessary to keep Mr. Reynard's
depredations under control. Trotting-matches are held
on Sunday on the racecourse near Charlottenlund, and
horse-racing takes place too. Lawn-tennis and croquet
are very popular, but the latter is the favourite pastime
of the Danish ladies.</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<h2><a class='page' name='Page_83' id='Page_83' title='83'></a><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">CHAPTER XV</a></h2>
<h3><a name="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND" id="INGEBORGS_JOURNEY_THROUGH_SEELAND"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">INGEBORG'S JOURNEY THROUGH SEELAND</a></h3>
<p>Funen, the island which lies between the Great and
Little Belts, is known as the "Garden of Denmark,"
on account of its beauty and fertility. In Odense, the
capital, Ingeborg had lived happily all the fifteen
summers of her life. Now she was to have an unexpected
treat. Her grandfather intended taking her
with him on the morrow to see some of the historical
places in Seeland. Ingeborg loved history, and had
given her grandfather much pleasure by the knowledge
she displayed when showing him over her own church,
St. Knud's. This ancient Gothic Church is the
finest specimen of mediæval architecture in Denmark.
St. Knud, the grand-nephew of Canute the Great,
was slain before the altar while praying for his people.
This brave King could have saved himself by flight,
but would not, lest his subjects should suffer at the
hands of his enemies. He was canonized by the Pope,
and his brother built the church to his memory. Besides
being the shrine of St. Knud, this church is the burial-place
of King Christian II. and his Queen, as well as of
King Hans and his Consort. The beautiful altar-piece,<a class='page' name='Page_84' id='Page_84' title='84'></a>
given by Queen Christina, is of the most exquisite
workmanship, and took the artists many years to
execute.</p>
<p>Ingeborg's excitement was great when she crossed
from Nyborg. She remembered that an army once
crossed this water on foot, so severe was the winter, and
that ice-breakers are still used occasionally. The girl
wished it was winter as she watched for the first time
the huge paddle-wheels of the steam-ferry ploughing
through the waters of the Great Belt. By the time
Korsör was reached, Herr Nielsen, her grandfather,
had made acquaintance with a student who was returning
to his college at Sorö, the town which they intended
making their first stopping-place. The student, whose
name was Hans, informed them that he lived at Ribe, a
quaint old town of South Jutland, left very much to
memories and the storks, but possessing a fine twelfth-century
Cathedral. The college at Sorö was founded
by Ludvig Holberg, the father of Danish comedy, who
left his fortune and library for that purpose. Hans
was proud of belonging to this college, as it had
educated many men of letters famous in Danish history.</p>
<p>In the Cistercian Church of Sorö, Bishop Absalon, the
founder of Copenhagen, lies buried. It is said that
this Bishop's spirit appears, with menacing attitude, if
anyone desecrates the place by irreverence. Ludvig
Holberg is also buried in this cloister church, as well
as three Danish Kings.</p>
<p>Ingemann the poet spent most of his time at this<a class='page' name='Page_85' id='Page_85' title='85'></a>
charming town, which stands on the lake of the Sorö Sö.
In the luxuriant beech-woods which surround the lake,
Saxo Grammaticus, the first historian of Denmark, was
wont to wander. Both these celebrated men also lie in
the old church, which Ingeborg felt was a fitting
resting-place for the noble dead.</p>
<p>On the advice of Hans, Herr Nielsen took his
young grand-daughter to see the old convent church of
Ringsted. Here many Danish Kings were buried in
the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The
interesting Romanesque Church of Kallundborg was
also visited. This Church, with its four octagonal
towers and a square tower in the middle, forms a
Greek cross. This is the most unique specimen of
mediæval architecture in the North.</p>
<p>Ingeborg had long looked forward to seeing Roskilde
Cathedral, and the day was bright and sunny when they
arrived at the sleepy little town on the Roskilde Fjord.
This stately Cathedral, with its two tall pointed spires,
is called the "Westminster Abbey" of Denmark.
It is the burial-place of the Danish Royal Family:
thirty-three Kings and many Queens rest in it. A
beautiful alabaster tomb marks the resting-place of
Queen Margrethe, the famous Queen who united the
three Crowns—Norway, Sweden, and Denmark—and
was ever ambitious for the glory and development of
these countries. She ruled with wisdom and wonderful
diplomacy, and was the most powerful Queen Denmark
ever had. She has been called the "Semiramis of the<a class='page' name='Page_86' id='Page_86' title='86'></a>
North." Though the three crowns are still on the
shield of Denmark, the other two kingdoms were lost
to her in the sixteenth century. Queen Margrethe was
the daughter of Valdemar IV., known as "Atterdag,"
because of his favourite proverb: "I Morgen er der
atter en Dag."<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> This powerful monarch kept his subjects
in such incessant turmoil by his numerous wars
for acquiring territory "that they had not time to eat"!
The Renaissance chapel erected by Christian IV., in
which his tomb stands, is very beautiful. This popular
monarch, alike celebrated as architect, sailor, and warrior,
was one of the most impressive figures in Danish history.
The mural paintings of the chapel represent scenes in
the life of this great King.</p>
<p>Ingeborg was glad she remembered her history,
and could tell her grandfather so much as they went
through the Cathedral. He, however, informed her
that Frederik VII. was the last of the Kings of the
Oldenburg line, which had been on the throne of
Denmark for over four hundred years.</p>
<p>The sarcophagus of the beloved Christian IX., father
of many European crowned heads, including Queen
Alexandra of England, is still kept covered with fresh
flowers. This King, whose memory is so revered in
all countries, inaugurated a new dynasty in Denmark.
The curious old clock at the western end of the cathedral
interested Ingeborg, and she watched with delight,
when it struck the hour of noon, St. George, mounted<a class='page' name='Page_87' id='Page_87' title='87'></a>
on his fiery steed, with many groans and stiff, jerky
movements, kill the dragon, which expired with a gruesome
death-rattle!</p>
<p>In the thirteenth century this quiet town of Roskilde
was the capital, and the archiepiscopal see of Denmark.
An English Bishop, William of Roskilde, is supposed
to have built the Cathedral.</p>
<p>We will now follow our little friend and her grandfather
to Frederiksborg Castle. The castle, with its
many towers and pinnacles reflected in still waters,
stands in the middle of a lake. This handsome Dutch
Renaissance building is now used as an historical
museum. Many of the Danish Kings have been
crowned in its magnificent chapel. Wandering through
the splendid rooms of the castle, Ingeborg could read
the history of her country in a very pleasant and
interesting manner. The collection being confined to
one period for each room made instruction an easy
affair for the grandfather. Beginning with King Gorm
the Old and Canute the Great, it comprises all periods
up to the last century.</p>
<p>The autumn residence of the Royal Family, Fredensborg
Castle, was the next place of interest visited.
This Castle of Peace was built to commemorate the
end of the war between Denmark and Sweden.
"Fred" means "peace" in Danish, and, indeed, this
place proves a home of peace to tired Royalty. Its
park is considered the most beautiful in Denmark.
The magnificent avenues of lime-trees are lined by<a class='page' name='Page_88' id='Page_88' title='88'></a>
marble statues of peasants in national costumes,
Faroese, Icelandic and Norwegian, as well as those of
Denmark.</p>
<p>The Open-Air Museum at Lyngby, with its ancient
farm and peasant buildings, the interiors of which are
fitted up just as they used to be, gave Ingeborg a peep
into the past and old-time Denmark. Here she saw
a curious rolling-pin hanging in the ingle-nook of the
farmhouse from the village of Ostenfeld. This wooden
pin, so her grandfather told her, was a Clogg Almanac
or Runic Calendar. It had four sides, each marking
three months, large notches denoting Sundays, small
ones showing week-days. Saints' days were marked
by the symbol of each saint. He had seen some of
these old calendars in the Ashmolean Museum at
Oxford, when he had been in England, which were
relics of Danish government there. These quaint and
curious Clogg Almanacs were used throughout Scandinavia,
small ones made of horn or bone being for
the pocket.</p>
<p>But here we must say good-bye to Ingeborg and
her grandfather, as after seeing Kronborg Castle and
Elsinore they will return by the beautiful coast-line to
Copenhagen, there to enjoy many of the sights we have
seen in "dear little Denmark."</p>
<hr style="width: 65%;" />
<div class='footnotes'>
<h2><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a><a href="#CONTENTS">FOOTNOTES:</a></h2>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Thank you for the food.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> May it agree with you.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Spoon-food.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Luncheon.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Be so good.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Birthday child.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> Impenetrable swamp.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> The sharp, dry, north-west wind which blows in the spring.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Retreat of wild-duck.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Blue Tower.</p></div>
<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> To-morrow comes another day.</p></div>
</div>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
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