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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/20012-h.zip b/20012-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2a8038b --- /dev/null +++ b/20012-h.zip diff --git a/20012-h/20012-h.htm b/20012-h/20012-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..62e1186 --- /dev/null +++ b/20012-h/20012-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,1689 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4 { + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + TD { vertical-align: top; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + color: gray;} + + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h2> +<a href="#startoftext">The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book, by William Henry Gladstone</a> +</h2> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book, by William +Henry Gladstone + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book + Revised Edition, 1890 + + +Author: William Henry Gladstone + + + +Release Date: December 3, 2006 [eBook #20012] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HAWARDEN VISITORS' HAND-BOOK*** +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1890 Phillipson & Golder edition by +David Price, ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<h1>The Hawarden Visitors’ Hand-Book.</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>REVISED EDITION</i>.<br /> +1890.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Chester:<br /> +<span class="smcap">Printed for the Compiler by</span><br /> +PHILLIPSON & GOLDER, EASTGATE ROW.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p0b.jpg"> +<img alt="W. Gladstone. Photographed by John Moffat, Edinburgh. +1884" src="images/p0s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><!-- page 2--><a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span><span +class="smcap">entered at stationers’ hall</span>.<br /> +<span class="smcap">all rights reserved</span>.</p> +<h2><!-- page 3--><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +3</span>Note as to the Illustrations.</h2> +<p>The Views of the Castle Gate and of Broughton Lodge are taken +from Blocks kindly lent for the purpose of this publication by +the Proprietor of the <i>Leisure Hour</i>. And for the View +of the House and Flower-garden I am indebted to the courtesy of +the Proprietors of <i>Harpers Magazine</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">W. H. G.</p> +<h2><!-- page 4--><a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +4</span>Regulations as to Hawarden Park and Old Castle.</h2> +<p>Visitors are allowed to use the Gravel Drives through the Park +and Wood between Noon and Sunset.</p> +<p>Persons exceeding this permission and not keeping to the +Carriage Road will be deemed Trespassers.</p> +<p>The Park is closed on Good Friday and Whit-Monday.</p> +<p>Dogs not admitted.</p> +<p><i>Excursion parties can only be received by special +permission</i>, <i>and not later in the year than the first +Monday in August</i>.</p> +<p><i>The House is in no case shown</i>.</p> +<h2><!-- page 5--><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +5</span>Hawarden Village and Manor.</h2> +<p>Hawarden, in Flintshire, lies 6 miles West of Chester, at a +height of 250 feet, overlooking a large tract of Cheshire and the +Estuary of the Dee. It is now in direct communication with +the Railway world by the opening of the Hawarden and Wirral +lines. It is also easily reached from Sandycroft Station, +or from Queen’s Ferry, (1½ m.)—whence the +Church is plainly seen—or again from Broughton Hall Station +(2¼m.). The Glynne Arms offers plain but comfortable +accommodation. There are also some smaller hostelries, and +a Coffee House called “The Welcome.”</p> +<p>The Village consists of a single street, about half a mile in +length. Two Crosses formerly stood in it; the Upper and the +Lower, destroyed in 1641. The site of the Lower Cross, at +the eastern end, is marked by a Lime tree planted in 1742. +Here stood the Parish Stocks, long since perished. More +durable, but grotesque in its affectation of Grecian +architecture, may be seen close by, the old House of +Correction. This spot is still called the Cross Tree.</p> +<p>The Fountain opposite the Glynne Arms is designed as a +Memorial of the Golden Wedding of the Right Hon. W. E. and Mrs. +Gladstone. A little lower down is the new Police Office; +and further on is the Institute, containing mineralogical and +other specimens, together with a good popular library.</p> +<p>In Doomsday Book, Hawarden appears as a Lordship, with a +church, two ploughlands—half of one belonging to the +church—half an acre of meadow, a wood two leagues long and +half a league broad. The whole was valued at 40 shillings; +yet on all this were but four villeyns, six boors, <!-- page +6--><a name="page6"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>and four +slaves: so low was the state of population. It was a chief +manor, and the capital one of the Hundred of Atiscross, extending +from the Dee to the Vale of Clwyd, and forming part of +Cheshire.</p> +<p>The name is variously spelt in the old records. In +Doomsday Book it is Haordine; elsewhere it is Weorden or +Haweorden, Harden, HaWordin, Hauwerthyn, Hawardin and +Hawardine. It is pretty clearly derived from the Welsh +<i>Din</i> or <i>Dinas</i>, castle on a hill (although some +attribute to it a Saxon derivation), and was no doubt, like the +mound called Truman’s Hill, west of the church, in the +earliest times a British fortification.</p> +<p>No Welsh is spoken in Hawarden. By the construction of +Offa’s Dyke about A.D. 790, stretching from the Dee to the +Wye and passing westwards of Hawarden, the place came into the +Kingdom of Mercia, and at the time of the Invasion from Normandy +is found in the possession of the gallant Edwin. It would +appear, however, from the following story, derived, according to +Willett’s History of Hawarden, from a Saxon MS., that in +the tenth century the Welsh were in possession.</p> +<p>“In the sixth year of the reign of Conan, King of North +Wales, there was in the Christian Temple at a place called +Harden, in the Kingdom of North Wales, a Roodloft, in which was +placed an image of the Virgin Mary, with a very large cross, +which was in the hands of the image, called Holy Rood. +About this time there happened a very hot and dry summer; so dry +that there was not grass for the cattle; upon which most of the +inhabitants went and prayed to the image or Holy Rood, that it +would cause it to rain, but to no purpose. Among the rest, +the Lady Trawst (whose husband’s name was Sytsylht, a +nobleman <!-- page 7--><a name="page7"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 7</span>and governor of Harden Castle) went to +pray to the said Holy Rood, and she praying earnestly and long, +the image or Holy Rood fell down upon her head and killed her; +upon which a great uproar was raised, and it was concluded and +resolved upon to try the said image for the murder of the said +Lady Trawst, and a jury was summoned for this purpose, whose +names were as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>Hincot of Hancot, Span of Mancot,<br /> +Leech and Leach, and Cumberbeach.<br /> +Peet and Pate, with Corbin of the gate,<br /> +Milling and Hughet, with Gill and Pughet.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The Jury—so continues the story—found the Holy +Rood guilty of wilful murder, and the sentence was proposed that +she should be hanged. This was opposed by Span, who +suggested that, as they wanted rain, it would be best to drown +her. This, again, was objected to by Corbin, who advised to +lay her on the sands of the river and see what became of +her. This was done, with the result that the image was +carried by the tide to some low land near the wall of +Caerleon—(supposed to be Chester)—where it was found +by the Cestrians drowned and dead, and by them buried at the gate +where found, with this inscription:—</p> +<blockquote><p>The Jews their God did crucify,<br /> +The Hardeners theirs did drown,<br /> +’Cos, with their wants she’d not comply,<br /> +And lies under this cold stone.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Hence the said low land, or island, as it may have been, is +supposed to have got the name of the Rood-Eye, or Roodee as at +present.</p> +<p>After the Conquest, Hawarden was included in the vast grant +made by William to his kinsman, Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, +which included Cheshire and all the seaboard as far as +Conway. The Earl had his residence at Chester, and there +held his Courts and Parliament. His <!-- page 8--><a +name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>sword of +dignity, referred to in the heading of Common Law Indictments, is +preserved in the British Museum. Among the earliest +residents at Hawarden occurs the name of Roger Fitzvalence, son +of one of the Conqueror’s followers; subsequently it +continued in the possession of the Earls of Chester till the +death of Ranulf de Blundeville, the last earl, in 1231, when, +with Castle Rising and the ‘Earl’s Half’ in +Coventry, it passed, through his sister Mabel, to her +descendants, the Montalts.</p> +<p>The Barons de Monte Alto, sometimes styled de Moaldis or +Mohaut (now Mold, 6 miles from Hawarden, where the mound of the +castle remains), were hereditary seneschals of Chester and lords +of Mold. Roger de Montalt inherited Hawarden, Coventry, and +Castle Rising, and married Julian, daughter of Roger de Clifford, +Justiciary of Chester and North Wales, who was captured at the +storming of the Castle by Llewelyn, in 1281. Robert de +Montalt the last lord, died childless <a name="citation8"></a><a +href="#footnote8" class="citation">[8]</a> in 1329, when the +barony became extinct. He it was who signed the celebrated +letter to the Pope in 1300 as Dominus de Hawardyn.</p> +<p>Robert de Montalt bequeathed his estates to Isabella, Queen of +Edward II., and Hawarden afterwards passed by exchange, in 1337, +to Sir William de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury. From that +family it reverted in 1406, by attainder, to the Crown, and in +1411 was granted by Henry IV. to his second son, Thomas, Duke of +Clarence. Clarence dying without issue in 1420, it reverted +once more to the Crown, but finally, in 1454, passed to Sir +Thomas Stanley, Comptroller of the Household and afterwards Lord +Stanley, whose son became the first Earl of Derby. In 1495, +Henry VII. honoured Hawarden with a visit, and made <!-- page +9--><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>some +residence here for the amusement of stag-hunting, but his primary +motive was to soothe the Earl (husband to Margaret, the +King’s mother) after the ungrateful execution of his +brother, Sir William Stanley. <a name="citation9a"></a><a +href="#footnote9a" class="citation">[9a]</a></p> +<p>Hawarden remained in the possession of the Stanleys for nearly +200 years. William, the sixth Earl, when advanced in years, +surrendered the property to his son James, reserving to himself +£1000 a year, and retiring to a convenient house <a +name="citation9b"></a><a href="#footnote9b" +class="citation">[9b]</a> near the Dee, spent there the remainder +of his life, and died in 1642. James, distinguished for his +learning and gallantry, warmly espoused the cause first of +Charles I. and afterwards that of his son. Under his roof +Charles, when a fugitive, halted on his way from Chester to +Denbigh, on Sept. 25, 1645. After the battle of Worcester, +in 1657, James was taken prisoner, tried by Court Martial, and +executed at Bolton in the same year.</p> +<p>In 1653, the Lordship of Hawarden was purchased from the +agents of sequestration by Serjeant (afterwards Chief Justice) +Glynne; and in 1661 the sale was confirmed by Charles, Earl of +Derby.</p> +<p>The Glynnes are first heard of at Glyn Llivon, in +Carnarvonshire, in 1567. They trace their descent, however, +much further back, to Cilmin Droed Dhu (Cilmin of the Black +Foot), who came into Wales from the North of Britain with his +uncle Mervyn, King of the Isle of Man, who married Esyllt, +heiress of Conan, King of North Wales, about A.D. 830. The +territory allotted to him extended from Carnarvon <!-- page +10--><a name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>to +beyond Clynnog. Edward Llwyd was the first to assume the +name of Glynne, which his descendants continued till the male +succession ended in John Glynne, whose daughter and heiress, +Frances, married Thomas Wynne of Bodnau, created a baronet in +1742. His son, Sir John, is said to have pulled down the +old strong mansion of Cilmin, and erected the present one. +His son again, Sir Thomas, was created a Peer of Ireland for his +services in the American war, whose descendant is the present +Lord Newborough. The father of the Serjeant was Sir William +Glynne, Knight, 21st in descent from Cilmin Droed Dhu. The +Serjeant early espoused the cause of the popular party, perhaps +rather from ambition than from principle. His abilities +were soon recognized, and while still young he became High +Steward of Westminster and Recorder of London. In 1640 he +was elected Member for Westminster as a strong +Presbyterian. He was actively concerned in conducting the +charge against Lord Strafford. In 1646 he opposed in +Parliament Cromwell’s Self-denying Ordinance, and was +thrown into prison. He found means, however, to get +reconciled to Cromwell in 1648, and became one of his Council and +Serjeant-at-law. In 1654 he became Chamberlain of Chester, +and in the following year succeeded Rolle as Lord Chief +Justice—which office he discharged with credit. <a +name="citation10"></a><a href="#footnote10" +class="citation">[10]</a> In 1656 he was returned for +Carnarvonshire, and in the Rump Parliament he sat again for +Westminster. Meanwhile he contrived to ingratiate himself +with the opposite side, and in 1660 we find him assisting on +horseback at the coronation of Charles II. He now resigned +the Chief Justiceship, made himself very useful in settling legal +difficulties consequent upon the usurpation, and became as <!-- +page 11--><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +11</span>loyal as any cavalier: the King, as a mark of his +favour, <a name="citation11a"></a><a href="#footnote11a" +class="citation">[11a]</a> bestowing a baronetcy upon his son in +1661. He possessed Henley Park, <a +name="citation11b"></a><a href="#footnote11b" +class="citation">[11b]</a> in Surrey, and an estate at Bicester, +in Oxfordshire, (of which church, as well as Ambrosden, he was +patron) where the family resided. He died at his house in +Westminster in 1666, and was buried in a vault beneath the altar +of S. Margaret’s Church.</p> +<p>His son, Sir William Glynne, the first baronet, sat in +Parliament for Woodstock, and died in 1721. It was not till +1723 that the Glynnes moved to Hawarden, from Bicester. An +old stone records the building of a house in Broadlane in +1727. In 1732 Sir John Glynne, nephew of Sir William, +married Honora Conway, co-heiress with her sister Catherine of +the Ravenscrofts of Bretton and Broadlane, an old family +connected with Hawarden for many generations. <a +name="citation11c"></a><a href="#footnote11c" +class="citation">[11c]</a> This lady was the great great +grand-daughter of Sir Kenelm Digby, and with her one-half of the +Ravenscroft lands came into possession of the Glynnes; the other +half in Bretton passing eventually to the Grosvenors. She +died in 1769. In 1752 Sir John built a new house at +Broadlane, which has since been the residence of the family.</p> +<p><!-- page 12--><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +12</span>Though not the founder of the <i>family</i>, Sir John +Glynne may fairly be considered the founder of the <i>place</i>, +and of the estate in its modern sense. Though he sat for +five Parliaments for the Borough of Flint, he devoted himself +largely to domestic concerns and to the improvement of his +property by inclosure, drainage, and otherwise. The present +beauty of the Park is in a great measure due to his energy and +foresight. Upon the acquisition of Broadlane Hall, he at +once took in hand the re-planting of the demesne, <a +name="citation12"></a><a href="#footnote12" +class="citation">[12]</a> first in Broadlane and about the Old +Castle, and in 1747 on the Bilberry Hill. He also turned +his attention to the developement of the minerals on the estate, +and attempted the carriage of coals to Chester by water. He +died in 1777.</p> +<p>His Grandson, Sir S. R. Glynne, married in 1806 the Hon. Mary +Neville, daughter of Lord Braybrooke and of Catherine, sister to +George, Marquess of Buckingham, and by her had four children: +Stephen, eighth and last Baronet, born September 22, 1807; Henry, +Rector of Hawarden born September 9th, 1810; Catherine, now Mrs. +Gladstone, born January 6, 1812; and Mary, afterwards Lady +Lyttelton, born July 22, 1813. He died in 1815 at the age +of 35 years, and of his children Mrs. Gladstone alone +survives. Sir Stephen, the last Baronet, died unmarried in +1874, surviving his brother the Rector only two years; and the +Lordship of the Manor, together, by a family arrangement, with +the estates, then devolved upon the present owner.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p12b.jpg"> +<img alt="Catherine Gladstone. Photographed by G. Watmough +Webster, Chester" src="images/p12s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><!-- page 13--><a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +13</span>The Old Castle.</h2> +<p>The Ruins of Hawarden Castle occupy a lofty eminence, guarded +on the S. by a steep ravine, and on the other sides by artificial +banks and ditches, partly favoured by the formation of the +ground. The space so occupied measures about 150 yards in +diameter. Upon the summit stands the Keep, towering some 50 +feet above the main ward, and some 200 feet above the bottom of +the ravine.</p> +<p>“The place presents,” says Mr. G. T. Clark, +“in a remarkable degree the features of a well-known class +of earthworks found both in England and in Normandy. This +kind of fortification by mound, bank and ditch was in use in the +ninth, tenth, and even in the eleventh centuries, before masonry +was general. <a name="citation13"></a><a href="#footnote13" +class="citation">[13]</a> The mound was crowned with a +strong circular house of timber, such as in the Bayeaux tapestry +the soldiers are attempting to set on fire. The Court below +and the banks beyond the ditches were fenced with palisades and +defences of that character.”</p> +<p>It was usual after the Conquest to replace these old +fortifications with the thick and massive masonry characteristic +of Norman Architecture. Hawarden, however, bears no marks +of the Norman style though the Keep is unusually +substantial. It appears, according to the <!-- page 14--><a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>best +authorities, <a name="citation14"></a><a href="#footnote14" +class="citation">[14]</a> to be the work of one period, and that, +probably, the close of the reign of Henry III. or the early part +of that of Edward I. Hence Roger Fitzvalence, the first +possessor after the Conquest, and the Montalts, who held it by +Seneschalship to Hugh Lupus, must have been content to allow the +old defences to remain, as any masonry constructed by them could +scarcely have been so entirely removed as to show no trace of the +style prevalent at the time.</p> +<p>The Keep is circular, 61 feet in diameter, and originally +about 40 feet high. The wall is 15 feet thick at the base, +and 13 feet at the level of the rampart walk—dimensions of +unusual solidity even at the Norman period, and rare indeed in +England under Henry III. or the Edwards. The battlements +have been replaced by a modern wall, but the junction with the +old work may be readily detected. In the Keep were two +floors—the lower, no doubt, a store room without fire-place +or seat—the upper a state room lighted from three recesses +and entered from the portcullis chamber.</p> +<p>Next to this last is the Chapel, or rather <i>Sacrarium</i>, +with a cinquefoil-headed doorway, and a small recess for a +piscina, with a projecting bracket and fluted foot. Against +the West wall is a stone bench, and above it a rude squint +through which the elevation of the Host could be seen from the +adjoining window recess. Of the two windows, one is square, +the other lancet-headed. The altar is modern. There +is a mural gallery in the thickness of the wall running round +nearly the whole circle of the Keep, and with remarkably strong +vaulting.</p> +<p><!-- page 15--><a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +15</span>Descending from the Keep and inclosing the space below, +were two walls or curtains, as they are technically called. +That on the N. side, 7 feet thick and 25 feet high, is still +tolerably perfect, and within it lay the way between the Keep and +the main ward. Of the South curtain only a fragment remains +attached to the Keep.</p> +<p>The entrance to the court-yard—now the so-called +bowling-green—was on the N. side. On the South side, +on the first floor (the basement being probably a cellar), was +the Hall, 30 feet high from its timber floor to the wall +plate. Two lofty windows remain and traces of a third, and +between them are the plain chamfered corbel whence sprung the +open roof. Below the hall is seen a small <i>ambry</i> or +cupboard in the wall.</p> +<p>Outside the curtain on the East side, where the visitor +ascends to the Courtyard, are remains of a kitchen and other +offices with apartments over, resting upon the scarp of the +ditch.</p> +<p>From the N.E. angle of the curtain projects a spur work +protected by two curtains, one of which, 4 feet thick and 24 feet +high, only remains, with a shouldered postern door opening on the +scarp of the ditch at its junction with the main curtain. +This spur work was the entrance to the Castle, and contains a +deep pit, now called the Dungeon, and a Barbican or Sally-port +beyond. The pit is 12 feet deep and measures 27 feet x 10 +feet across. It may possibly have served the double purpose +of defence and of water supply—there being no other +apparent source. In the footbridge across the pit may have +been a trap-door, or other means for suddenly breaking +communication in case of need. Overhead probably lay the +roadway for horsemen with a proper drawbridge. The +thickness of the <!-- page 16--><a name="page16"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 16</span>walls indicates their having been +built to a considerable height, sufficient probably to form +parapets masking the passage of the bridge.</p> +<p>In the mound beyond, or counterscarp, was the gate-house and +Barbican, containing a curious fan-shaped chamber up a flight of +steps. While the earth-works surrounding the Castle are the +oldest part of the fortifications—possibly, thinks Mr. +Clark, of the tenth century—the dressed masonry and the +different material of the Barbican and Dungeon-pit, together with +some of the exterior offices, show them to be of somewhat later +date than the main building. They have, in fact, as Mr. +Clark remarks, more of an unfinished than a partially destroyed +appearance. The squared and jointed stones, so easily +removable and ready to hand, <a name="citation16"></a><a +href="#footnote16" class="citation">[16]</a> proved no doubt a +tempting quarry to subsequent owners of Hawarden, who perhaps +shared the faults of a period when neither the architectural nor +historical value of ancient remains was generally +appreciated.</p> +<p>It now remains to trace the history of the Castle, so far as +it is known to us.</p> +<p>In 1264 a memorable conference took place within its walls +between Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and Llewelyn, +Prince of North Wales, at which each promised to aid the other in +promoting the execution of their respective plans. The +King, who, with the Prince of Wales, was the Earl’s +prisoner, was compelled <!-- page 17--><a name="page17"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 17</span>to renounce his rights, and the +Castle was given up to Llewelyn. On the suppression of de +Montfort’s rebellion the Castle reverted to the Crown, and +Llewelyn was called upon by the Papal Legate, Ottoboni, to +surrender it. This he at first declined, but being deserted +by the Earl, who at the same time, in order to put an end to the +conflict, offered to him his daughter Eleanor in marriage agreed +afterwards to a treaty by which the Castle was to be destroyed, +and Robert de Montalt to be reinstated in the possession of his +lands in Hawarden, but to be restrained from restoring the +fortification for thirty years.</p> +<p>This stipulation appears to have been violated, for in 1281 +the Welsh rebelled, and under David and Llewelyn (who then made +up their quarrel), an attack was made by night upon the Castle, +then styled Castrum Regis, which was successful. Roger de +Clifford, Justiciary of Chester, was taken prisoner, and the +Castle with much bloodshed and cruelty stormed and partly burnt +on Palm Sunday. The outrage was repeated in the next year +(Nov. 6th, 1282), when the Justice’s elder son, also Roger +Clifford, was slain. Soon after this Llewelyn died, Wales +was entirely subjugated, and David executed as a traitor.</p> +<p>To this period may most probably be assigned the present +structure. A Keep, such as that now standing is not likely +to have been successfully assaulted in two successive years; nor +does internal evidence favour the idea that it was the actual +work taken by the Welsh. Robert, the last of the Montalts, +was a wealthy man, and in all probability it was during his +Lordship, between 1297 and 1329, that the Castle, as we now see +it, was built. Though the unusual thickness of the walls of +the Keep might be thought more in keeping with the Norman period, +<!-- page 18--><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +18</span>the general details, as already stated, the polygonal +mural gallery and interior, and the entrance, evidently parts of +the original work, are very decidedly Edwardian.</p> +<p>Of the subsequent history of the Castle, we have unfortunately +nothing to record until we come to the Civil War between Charles +the First and the Parliament. On Nov. 11th, 1643, Sir +William Brereton, who had declared for the Parliament, appeared +with his adherents at Hawarden Castle, where he was welcomed by +Robert Ravenscroft and John Aldersey, who had charge of it in the +name of the King. Sir William established himself in the +Castle, and harassed the garrison of Chester, which was for the +King, by cutting off the supplies of coals, corn and other +provisions, which they had formerly drawn from the +neighbourhood. Meanwhile the Archbishop of York, writing +from Conway to the Duke of Ormond announced the betrayal of the +Castle and appealed for assistance. In response to this a +force from Ireland was landed at Mostyn in the same month, and +employed to reduce the fortress, garrisoned by 120 men of Sir +Thomas Middleton’s Regiment. The garrison received by +a trumpet a verbal summons to surrender, which gave occasion to a +correspondence, followed by a further and more peremptory summons +from Captain Thomas Sandford, which ran as follows:—</p> +<blockquote><p>Gentlemen: I presume you very well know or have +heard of my condition and disposition; and that I neither give +nor take quarter. I am now with my Firelocks (who never yet +neglected opportunity to correct rebels) ready to use you as I +have done the Irish; but loth I am to spill my countrymen’s +blood: wherefore by these I advise you to your fealty and +obedience towards his Majesty; and show yourselves faithful +subjects, by delivering the Castle into my hands for His +Majesty’s use—otherwise if you put me to the least +trouble or loss of blood to force you, expect no quarter <!-- +page 19--><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +19</span>for man woman or child. I hear you have some of +our late Irish army in your company: they very well know me and +that my Firelocks use not to parley. Be not unadvised, but +think of your liberty, for I vow all hopes of relief are taken +from you; and our intents are not to starve you but to batter and +storm you and then hang you all, and follow the rest of that +rebellious crewe. I am no bread-and-cheese rogue, but as +ever a Loyalist, and will ever be while I can write or name</p> +<p style="text-align: right">THOMAS SANDFORD,<br /> +Nov, 28, 1643. Captain of Firelocks.</p> +<p>I expect your speedy answer this Tuesday night at Broadlane +Hall, where I am now, your near neighbour.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Reinforcements having arrived from Chester, this was followed +by a brisk attack on the 3rd December, whereupon the garrison +being short of provisions, a white flag was hung out from the +walls, and the Castle surrendered on the following day to Sir +Michael Emley. It was held by the Royalists for two years, +but after the surrender of Chester, in Feb. 1646, Sir William +Neal, the governor, capitulated (after receiving the King’s +sanction—then at Oxford—) to Major-General Mytton +after a month’s siege. It was probably during these +operations that the specimens of stone and iron cannon balls +still remaining were used.</p> +<p>An entry in the Commons’ Journals refers to this last +event, dated 16th March, 1645.</p> +<p>Ordered: That Mr. Fogge the Minister shall have the sum of +£50 bestowed upon him for his pains in bringing the good +news of the taking of the Castle of Hawarden; and that the +Committee of Lords and Commons for advance of Moneys at +Haberdashers’ Hall do pay the same accordingly.</p> +<p>The Lords’ concurrence to be desired herein.</p> +<p>In the following year there is an Order “That the +Castles of Hawarden, Flint, and Ruthland be disgarrisoned <!-- +page 20--><a name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +20</span>and demolished, all but a tower in Flint Castle, to be +reserved for a gaol for the County”; and a confirmation of +it follows in the next year, dated 19th July, 1647.</p> +<p>These orders were no doubt forthwith executed, and of Flint +and Rhuddlan little now remains. At Hawarden gunpowder has +been used to blow up portions of the Keep. Sir William +Glynne, son of the Chief Justice, twenty or thirty years later, +carried further the work of destruction. Sir John Glynne, +too, is said to have made free with the materials of the Castle, +and certain it is that a vast amount has been carted away and +used up in walls and for other purposes. His successors, +however, have done their utmost to make amends for these ravages, +and to preserve the ruins from further injury. The entrance +and the winding stair by which the visitor mounts to the top of +the Keep are a restoration skilfully effected not long ago under +the direction of Mr. Shaw of Saddleworth. The view embraces +a wide range of country, North, East, and South, extending from +Liverpool to the Wrekin: on the West it is bounded by Moel Fammau +or Queen Mountain, on the summit of which is seen the remnant of +the fallen obelisk raised to commemorate the 50th year of the +reign of George III. Round about lie the Woods and the +Park, presenting a happy mixture of wild and pastoral beauty; +while close beneath the Old stands the New Castle, affecting in +its turreted outline some degree of congruity with its prototype, +but much more contrasting with it in its home-like air, and the +luxury of its lawns and flower-beds.</p> +<p>Not less striking is the view of the Ruins from below. +Here judgment and taste have combined with great natural +advantages of position to produce an exceedingly picturesque +effect. From the flower garden a wide sweep <!-- page +21--><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>of +lawn, flanked by majestic oaks and beeches, carries the eye up to +the foot-bridge crossing the moat, thence to the ivy-mantled +walls which overhang it, and upward again to the flag-topt tower +that crowns the height. Clusters of ivy, and foliage here +and there intervening, serve to soften and beautify the +mouldering remains. The scene brings to our minds the words +of the poet—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The old order changeth, yielding place to +new”;</p> +</blockquote> +<p>and, conscious as we may be that society in our day has its +dangers and disorders of a different and more insidious kind, we +are thankful that our lot is not cast in the harsh and troublous +times of our history. All around us the former scenes of +rapine and violence are changed to fertility and peace. The +Old Castle serves well to illustrate the contrast. Its +hugely solid walls, reared 600 years ago with so much pains and +skill to repel the invader and to overawe the lawless, have +played their part, and are themselves abandoned to solitude and +decay. Within the arches which once echoed to the clang of +arms the owls have their home; while the rooks from the tree-tops +around seem to chant the <i>requiem</i> of the past.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p21b.jpg"> +<img alt="Ruins of Old Castle" src="images/p21s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><!-- page 22--><a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +22</span>The Church.</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p22b.jpg"> +<img alt="The Church" src="images/p22s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Hawarden Church, with its large graveyard attached, finely +situated overlooking the estuary of the Dee, is supposed to have +been built about A.D. 1275, and has much solidity and dignity of +structure. The patron saint is S. Deiniol, founder of the +Collegiate monastery at Bangor, and about A.D. 550 made first +Bishop of that See. In the old records he is styled one of +the three “Gwynvebydd” or holy men of the Isle of +Britain. He was buried in Bardsey Island. A place +still called “Daniel’s Ash”—perhaps a +corruption of Deiniol—may be the very spot where he <!-- +page 23--><a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +23</span>gathered his disciples round him. Two Dedication +festivals are observed, the one on S. Deiniol’s Day, +December 10th, the other on the Sunday after Holy Cross Day, +September 14th. The Church has a central tower containing +six bells, <a name="citation23a"></a><a href="#footnote23a" +class="citation">[23a]</a> a chancel with a south aisle called +the Whitley Chancel (after the Whitleys of Aston), and a nave +with blind clerestory and two aisles. There is a division +in the roof between the chancel and the nave which has the +appearance of a transept, but not extended beyond the line of the +aisles. The axis of the chancel deviates from that of the +nave.</p> +<p>In 1764 the nave and aisles were newly pewed in place of the +old benches, and the floor flagged instead of being strewn with +rushes. In 1810 a gallery was erected at the west end and +an organ placed in it; the gallery was enlarged and a new organ +purchased in 1836. <a name="citation23b"></a><a +href="#footnote23b" class="citation">[23b]</a></p> +<p><!-- page 24--><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +24</span>Great improvements were made about the year 1855 by the +Rev. Henry Glynne, Rector: the organ and singers were removed +from the west to the east end, the pews converted into open +seats, and the cumbrous “three decker” pulpit and +reading desk <a name="citation24a"></a><a href="#footnote24a" +class="citation">[24a]</a> exchanged for simpler furniture. +Unfortunately on the 29th October, 1857, a disastrous fire +occurred, almost entirely destroying the roof and fittings of the +Church. Its restoration was at once placed in the hands of +Sir Gilbert Scott, architect, who improved the occasion by adding +the small spire which now with excellent effect crowns the +otherwise somewhat stunted tower. An organ chamber was now +added on the N. side of the chancel, and on the 14th July, 1859, +with Sermons from the late Bishop Wilberforce, Dean Hook and +others, the Church was re-opened. The whole expenditure was +about £8000.</p> +<p>The Reredos is a representation of the Last Supper in +alabaster, and was erected as a memorial to the Rev. Henry +Glynne, Rector of the Parish for 38 years. In the side +chancel <a name="citation24b"></a><a href="#footnote24b" +class="citation">[24b]</a> under the ‘Vine’ window, +is a recumbent figure of his brother, Sir Stephen Glynne, who +died two years later in 1874—a beautiful work by +Noble. To his memory also were given by the parishioners +the wrought-iron gates at the main entrance to the +Churchyard.</p> +<p><!-- page 25--><a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +25</span>Upon the altar table stands a handsome brass cross +mounted on <i>rosso antico</i> the gift of the parishioners to +the present Rector. The old Communion plate was twice +stolen, viz., on April 13th, 1821, when it was recovered, being +found beaten flat and buried near the Higher Ferry; and finally +in 1859. The Churchyard was enlarged in 1859, by gift of +the late Rector. The old Cross which stood in the +Churchyard in 1663, has disappeared: possibly the Sun-dial now +occupies its place.</p> +<p>The Parish Register dates from the year 1585; and the list of +Rectors goes back to 1180.</p> +<p>The Living is what is termed ‘a Peculiar,’ and was +formerly exempt from Episcopal jurisdiction. The Rectors +granted marriage licenses, proved wills, and had their own +consistorial Courts and Proctors. The Court was held in the +Eastern Bay of the Chancel Aisle: the seal, still used, +represents Daniel in the Lion’s Den, with the legend +‘Sigillum peculiaris et exemptæ jurisdictionis de +Hawarden’. These privileges, originally granted by +the Pope, were continued at the Reformation; but in 1849 the +Parish was definitely attached to the Diocese of S. Asaph, and +the power of granting marriage licenses now alone remains.</p> +<p>The Tithes were in 1093, granted by Hugh Lupus, Earl of +Chester, to the Monks of S. Werburgh. In 1288 Pope Nicholas +the 3rd, granted them to King Edward the 1st, for six +years. They were then valued at £13 6s. 8d. At +the Reformation they were estimated at £66 6s. +5½d.</p> +<p>The Rectory was greatly enlarged by the Hon. George Neville +Grenville, Rector from 1814 to 1834, and afterwards Dean of +Windsor. The garden comprises nearly six acres and is +charmingly laid out.</p> +<p><!-- page 26--><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +26</span>A list of Rectors of Hawarden is appended. Up to +the middle of the 15th century exchanges were very frequent.</p> +<p>1180. William de Montalt</p> +<p>1209. Ralph de Montalt</p> +<p>1216. Hugh<br /> +William</p> +<p>1272. Roger<br /> +Richard de Osgodly</p> +<p>1315. William de Melton</p> +<p>1317. John Walewayn</p> +<p>1331. Thomas de Boynton</p> +<p>1333. Roger de Gildesburgh</p> +<p>1344. John de Baddeley</p> +<p>1350. James de Audlegh</p> +<p>1353. John Bexsyn</p> +<p>1357. Robert de Coningham</p> +<p>1368. William Pectoo</p> +<p>1391. Roger de Davenport<br /> +Henry Merston</p> +<p>1423. Marmaduke Lumley</p> +<p>1425. John Millyngton</p> +<p>1466. James Stanley</p> +<p>1478. Matthew Fowler</p> +<p>1487. James Stanley</p> +<p>1505. Randolph Pool</p> +<p>1557. Arthur Swift</p> +<p>1561. Thomas Jackson</p> +<p>1605. John Phillips D.D.</p> +<p>1633. Thomas Draycott</p> +<p>1636. Robert Browne</p> +<p>1638. Christopher Pasley D.D.</p> +<p>1640. Edward Bold</p> +<p>1655. Lawrence Fogge D.D.</p> +<p>1664. Orlando Fogge</p> +<p>1666. John Price D.D.</p> +<p>1685. Beaumont Percival D.D.</p> +<p>1714. B. Gardiner</p> +<p>1726. Francis Glynne</p> +<p>1728. John Fletcher</p> +<p>1742. Richard Williams</p> +<p>1770. Stephen Glynne</p> +<p>1780. Randolph Crewe</p> +<p>1814. George Neville-Grenville</p> +<p>1834. Henry Glynne</p> +<p>1872. Stephen E. Gladstone</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p26b.jpg"> +<img alt="Interior of Church" src="images/p26s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><!-- page 27--><a name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +27</span>The Modern Residence and Park.</h2> +<p>The modern Residence was built in 1752 upon the site of +Broadlane Hall, the seat of the Ravenscrofts, an old house of +wood and plaster, which came into Sir John Glynne’s +possession by his marriage with Honora Conway, daughter of Henry +Conway and Honora Ravenscroft. Originally a square brick +house, it was afterwards in 1809 extended by the addition of the +Library on the West side and of the Kitchen and other offices on +the East; the whole being cased in stone <a +name="citation27"></a><a href="#footnote27" +class="citation">[27]</a> and castellated. The entrance was +now turned from the S. to the N. front—the turnpike road, +which passed in front of the house and along the Moat to the +Village, having been diverted in 1804—and the present +Flower-garden constructed with the old Thorn-tree in the +centre. Quite recently has been added the block at the N.W. +angle of the house, containing Mr. Gladstone’s Study, or, +as he calls it, the ‘Temple of Peace.’</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p27b.jpg"> +<img alt="House and Flower Garden" src="images/p27s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The most striking feature about this room is that (to use the +phrase of a writer in Harper’s Magazine) it is built about +with bookcases. Instead of being ranged along the wall in +the usual way, they stand out into the room at right angles, each +wide enough to hold a double row facing either way. +Intervals are left sufficient to give access to the books, and +Mr. Gladstone prides himself upon the economy of space obtained +by this arrangement. His Library numbers near 20,000 +volumes, many of which have overflowed into adjoining rooms, +where they are similarly stored. <!-- page 28--><a +name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>Of this +number Theology claims a large proportion; Homer, Dante, <a +name="citation28a"></a><a href="#footnote28a" +class="citation">[28a]</a> and Shakespeare also have their +respective departments, and any resident visitor is at liberty, +on entering his or her name in a book kept for the purpose, to +borrow any volume at pleasure. Three writing-tables are +seen. At one Mr. Gladstone sits when busy in political work +and correspondence; the second is reserved for literary and +especially, Homeric studies; the third is Mrs. +Gladstone’s. “It is,” remarked Mr. +Gladstone to the writer above mentioned, with a wistful glance at +the table where ‘Vaticanism’ and ‘Juventus +Mundi’ were written, “A long time since I sat +there.” About the room are to be seen busts and +photographs of old friends and colleagues—Sidney Herbert, +the Duke of Newcastle, Canning, Tennyson, Lord Richard Cavendish, +and others, while in the corners lurk numerous walking sticks and +axes.</p> +<p>Adjoining Mr. Gladstone’s room is the Library of the +house—a well-proportioned and comfortable room, well stored +with books, prominent among which topography and ecclesiology +testify to the predelictions of the late owner, Sir Stephen +Glynne. <a name="citation28b"></a><a href="#footnote28b" +class="citation">[28b]</a> There are some good family +portraits and other pictures, among which are specimens of Sir +Peter Lely, Snyders, and a very fine likeness of Sir Kenelm Digby +by Vandyke. There is a fine picture by <!-- page 29--><a +name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>Millais of +Mr. Gladstone and his grandson, <a name="citation29a"></a><a +href="#footnote29a" class="citation">[29a]</a> painted in 1889, +and another good portrait of him by the late F. Holl; also a +much-admired likeness of Mrs. Gladstone by Herkomer.</p> +<p>Shading the windows of Mr. Gladstone’s Study is a +singular circle of limes of some 20 feet in diameter, which goes +by the name of Sir John Glynne’s Dressing-Room. +Mounting the slope towards the old castle is the Broad Walk, +terminating in an artificial amphitheatre at the top, made by Sir +John Glynne to give employment in a time of distress. The +grounds abound in fine trees, <a name="citation29b"></a><a +href="#footnote29b" class="citation">[29b]</a> and in +rhododendrons which in spring form masses of bloom.</p> +<p>In 1819, Prince Leopold, the late King of the Belgians, +visited the Castle; and the small wooden door on the south side +of the Ruins is still called after him. The Visitors’ +Book at the Lodge also records, in autograph, the names of Her +Gracious Majesty, as Princess Victoria, and her mother, the +Duchess of Kent, in or about the year 1833.</p> +<p>In the palmy days of the Royal British Bowmen the Castle was +the frequent scene of bow-meetings; the peculiar green costumes +and feathers worn by both the ladies and gentlemen competitors +contributing to the picturesque effect of these gatherings. +Simultaneously with one of these Archery Meetings, in the year, +we believe, 1835, was held a Fancy Bazaar, commemorated in some +admirable lines by Mr. R. E. Warburton of Arley Hall, which will +be read with pleasure in connection with more recent bazaars held +in the same place.</p> +<blockquote><p><!-- page 30--><a name="page30"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 30</span>While tents are pitched in +Hawarden’s peaceful vale,<br /> +And harmless shafts the platted targe assail;<br /> +While now the bow (the archers more intent<br /> +On making love than making war) is bent;<br /> +Beneath those towers, where erst their fathers drew<br /> +In deadly conflict bows of tougher yew;<br /> +Lo! Charity, a native of the skies,<br /> +Whose smile betrays her through a vain disguise,<br /> +Mounts the steep hill, and ’neath th’ +o’erhanging wall,<br /> +The canvass stretch’d in triumph, plants her stall;<br /> +In gay profusion o’er the counter pours<br /> +Her glittering wares and ranges all her stores.</p> +<p>Beneath the magic of her touch behold<br /> +Transformed at once the warlike aims of old!<br /> +The mighty falchion to a penknife shrinks,<br /> +The mailed meshes from the purse’s links;<br /> +The sturdy lance a bodkin now appears,<br /> +A bunch of tooth-picks once a hundred spears;<br /> +A painted toy behold the keen-edged axe!<br /> +See men of iron turned to dolls of wax!</p> +<p>The once broad shield contracted now in span<br /> +Raised as a screen or fluttered as a fan;<br /> +The gleaming helm a hollow thimble proves,<br /> +And weighty gauntlets dwindle into gloves.<br /> +The plumes that winged the arrow through the sky,<br /> +Waft to and fro the shuttlecock on high;<br /> +Two trusty swords are into scissors cross’d,<br /> +And dinted breastplates are in corsets lost;<br /> +While dungeon chains to gentler use consigned,<br /> +Now silken laces, tighten stays behind.</p> +<p>Approach! nor weapons more destructive fear,<br /> +Where’er ye turn, than pins and needles here.<br /> +While hobbling Age along the pathway crawls,<br /> +By aid of crutch to scale the Castle’s walls:<br /> +With eager steps advance, ye generous youths,<br /> +Draw purses all, and strip the loaded booths.<br /> +Bear each away some trophy from the steep,<br /> +Take each a keepsake ere ye quit the keep!<br /> +Come, every stranger, every guest draw nigh!<br /> +No peril waits you save from beauty’s eye.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><!-- page 31--><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +31</span>Hard by the Castle and across the yard will be found +Mrs. Gladstone’s Orphanage, containing from 20 to 30 +boys. Close by is a little Home of Rest established by Mrs. +Gladstone, for old and infirm women. The house in which the +orphans are lodged is called Diglane, and was formerly the +residence of the Crachley family. It was sold to Sir John +Glynne in 1749.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p31b.jpg"> +<img alt="Gateway—Castle, shewing Orphanage" +src="images/p31s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The Park is about 250 acres in extent, to which have to be +added the Bilberry Wood and Warren Plantations. It is +divided into two parts by a ravine passing immediately under the +old Castle and traversing its entire length. The further +side is called the Deer Park, inclosed and stocked by Sir John +Glynne in 1739. Its banks and glades, richly timbered, and +overgrown with bracken, afford from various points beautiful +views over the plain of Chester, with the bold projections of the +Frodsham and Peckforton hills. Along the bottom of the +hollow flows Broughton brook. Two Waterfalls occur in its +course through the Park: the lower is called the Ladies’ +Fall: near the upper one stood a Mill, now removed, the erection +of which is commemorated by a large stone, bearing the following +inscription:</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Trust in God for +Bread, and to the King for Justice, Protection and Peace.<br /> +This Mill was built A.D. 1767<br /> +By Sir John Glynne, Bart.,<br /> +Lord of this Manor:<br /> +Charles Howard Millwright.<br /> +Wheat was at this year 9s. and Barley at 5s. 6d. a Bushel. +Luxury was at a great height, and Charity extensive, but the pool +were starving, riotous, and hanged.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Between this spot and the “Old Lane,” a sandy +gully, lined with old beeches, and once the road to +Wrexham—now tenanted by rabbits—are two large oaks, +17 and 18 <!-- page 32--><a name="page32"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 32</span>feet in circumference +respectively. Another tree, a beautiful specimen of the +<i>fagus pendula</i>, or feathering beech, a great favourite with +Mr. Gladstone, deserves attention. It stands a few yards +from the iron railing near the moat of the old Castle, and +measures 17ft. 11 in. round. The sycamores at Hawarden are +particularly fine. Nor should the visitor omit seeing the +noble grove of beeches at the Ladies’ Fall.</p> +<p>The road which descends the steep hill under the Old Castle +and crosses the brook, leads up through the Park to the Bilberry +Wood. Twenty minutes’ walk through the wood brings +one to the “Top Lodge” (1¾ miles from the +Castle). From this point either the walk may be continued +through the further plantations to the pretty Church of St. +John’s at Penymynydd, <a name="citation32a"></a><a +href="#footnote32a" class="citation">[32a]</a> or, if necessary +Broughton Hall Station, 2½ miles distant, may be gained +direct. The inclosures and the plantations on this portion +of the estate, called the Warren, were made in 1798, and command +some very fine views. The high road through Pentrobin and +Tinkersdale offers a pleasant return route to Hawarden.</p> +<p>Everyone has heard of Mr. Gladstone’s prowess as a +woodcutter, and to some it may even have been matter of surprise +to see no scantiness of trees in the Park at Hawarden. It +is true that he attacks trees with the same vigour as he attacks +abuses in the body politic, <a name="citation32b"></a><a +href="#footnote32b" class="citation">[32b]</a> but he attacks +them on <!-- page 33--><a name="page33"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 33</span>the same principle—they are +blemishes and not ornaments. No one more scrupulously +respects a sound and shapely tree than Mr. Gladstone; and if he +is prone to condemn those that show signs of decay, he is always +ready to listen to any plea that may be advanced on their behalf +by other members of the family. In this, as in other +matters, doubtful points will of course arise; but there can be +no question that a policy of inert conservatism is an entire +mistake. Besides the natural growth and decay of trees, a +hundred other causes are ever at work to affect their structure +and appearance; and the facts of the landscape, thus continually +altering, afford sufficient occupation for the eye and hand of +the woodman. It was late in life that Mr. Gladstone took to +woodcutting. Tried first as an experiment, it answered so +admirably the object of getting the most complete exercise in a +short time that, though somewhat slackened of late, it has never +been abandoned. His procedure is characteristic. No +exercise is taken in the morning, save the daily walk to morning +service but between 3 and 4 in the afternoon he sallies forth, +axe on shoulder, accompanied by one or more of his sons. +The scene of action reached, there is no pottering; the work +begins at once, and is carried on with unflagging energy. +Blow follows blow, delivered with that skill which his favourite +author <a name="citation33a"></a><a href="#footnote33a" +class="citation">[33a]</a> reminds us is of more value to the +woodman than strength, together with a force and energy that soon +tells its tale on the tree</p> +<blockquote><p><!-- page 34--><a name="page34"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 34</span>* * * * Illa usque minatur<br /> +Et tremefacta comam concusso vertice nutat,<br /> +Vulneribus donec paulatim evicta supremum<br /> +Congemuit, traxitque jugis avulsa ruinam.</p> +<p><i>Virgil Œn II.</i> 626</p> +<p>“It still keeps nodding to its doom,<br /> +Still bows its head and shakes its plume,<br /> +Till, by degrees o’ercome, one groan<br /> +It heaves, and on the hill lies prone.”</p> +<p><i>Conington’s Translation</i>.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At the advanced age he has now attained, it can hardly be +expected that Mr. Gladstone can very frequently indulge in what +has been his favourite recreation for the past twenty-five +years. The present winter <a name="citation34"></a><a +href="#footnote34" class="citation">[34]</a> however saw the fall +of at least one large tree, in which he took a full share—a +Spanish chestnut, measuring 10ft. at the top of the face, and +those who were present can testify to the undiminished vigour +with which the axe was wielded on that occasion.</p> +<h2><!-- page 35--><a name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +35</span>Parish and District of Hawarden.</h2> +<p>The Parish of Hawarden is a very extensive one, containing +upwards of 17,000 acres, with a population, according to the +census of 1871, of 7088. Sixteen townships are included in +it; Hawarden, Broadlane, Mancot Aston, Shotton, Pentrobin, Moor, +Rake, Manor, Bannel, Bretton, Broughton, Ewloe Wood, Ewloe Town, +Saltney and Sealand. To provide for the spiritual wants of +so large a district, four daughter churches have been +built—viz.: S. Matthew’s, Buckley, <a +name="citation35a"></a><a href="#footnote35a" +class="citation">[35a]</a> in 1822, S. Mary’s, Broughton, +<a name="citation35b"></a><a href="#footnote35b" +class="citation">[35b]</a> in 1824, S. Johns, Penymynydd, <a +name="citation35c"></a><a href="#footnote35c" +class="citation">[35c]</a> in 1843, and S. Bartholomew’s, +Sealand, in 1867. The work of the Parish Church is now +further supplemented by three new School-chapels at Shotton, +Sandycroft and Ewloe. The chief portion of Saltney, and the +district of Buckley, have been recently separated from Hawarden +for ecclesiastical purposes.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p35b.jpg"> +<img alt="Lodge Gate—Broughton Approach" +src="images/p35s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The Rector of Hawarden has also to provide for the management +and support of eight National Schools, involving <!-- page +36--><a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>an +annual expenditure of £1460. The requirements of the +Education Act of 1870 involved an outlay of £4300 raised +entirely from local sources.</p> +<p>The patronage of the living is vested in the Lord of the +Manor. <a name="citation36"></a><a href="#footnote36" +class="citation">[36]</a> The Rev. S. E. Gladstone, the +present Rector, was appointed by the late Sir Stephen Glynne in +1872.</p> +<p>The Grammar School is finely situated, near the Church, and +has accommodation for 50 scholars, inclusive of 20 +boarders. The income from endowment is £24.</p> +<p>The temporary building adjoining contains a portion of the +Library of the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone.</p> +<p>The land about Hawarden varies much in quality. The best +lies towards the river and on Saltney, where are large and well +cultivated farms. On the higher ground in Pentrobin the +soil is poorer; here however are found holdings that have +remained in the same family for generations. The land is +mainly arable; but little cheese being now made.</p> +<p>About one mile and a half from Hawarden on the road to +Northop, lie ensconced in a wood the scant remains of the old +Castle of Ewloe—the scene of a battle between the English +and Welsh in 1157, in which the former were defeated by David and +Conan, sons of Owen Gwynedd.</p> +<p>The district is rich in beds of coal and clay. The +former have been worked from an early period when the coal was +mostly sent to Chester; but the difficulties of carriage before +the turnpike road was made, and especially of draining the mines, +which before steam-engines came into use was attempted to be done +by means of <!-- page 37--><a name="page37"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 37</span>levels, <a name="citation37"></a><a +href="#footnote37" class="citation">[37]</a> were a serious +impediment to that development which under more favourable +conditions has since taken place.</p> +<p>Formerly the only means of getting the minerals of the +district away, was a horse tramway from Buckley to +Queensferry. In 1862 however was opened the Wrexham and +Connah’s Quay Railway,—Mrs. Gladstone cutting the +first sod, and an address from the Corporation of Wrexham being +at the same time presented to Mr. Gladstone, then Chancellor of +the Exchequer. This line is now carried through Hawarden, +and, when connected with Birkenhead and Liverpool by the Mersey +Tunnel, now happily completed, is destined in all probability to +become one of importance beyond the limits of the immediate +district.</p> +<p>Clay has been extensively worked in Buckley, where the Messrs. +Hancock’s famous fire-brick is made. Mention may also +be made of the white bricks made by the Aston Hall Coal and Brick +Company, which are in great favour with builders on account of +their powers of resisting the weather and of retaining their +colour. A clay, resembling <i>terra cotta</i> when burnt, +has also been found on Saltney.</p> +<p><!-- page 38--><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +38</span>At Sandycroft, on the river bank, are the Ironworks +belonging to Messrs. Taylor, where mining and other machinery is +made.</p> +<p>The present course of the River below Chester, is called the +New Cut, and was completed under Act of Parliament, in 1737, by +the River Dee Company, who have lately handed over their interest +in the River to a newly formed Conservancy Board. The +River, which before wandered over a large tract, was thus +confined to the present channel, and a large reclamation of land +effected. In compensation for the loss of rights of +pasturage, £200 is paid yearly by the Company to Trustees +for the benefit of the Freeholders of the Manor of Hawarden; +£50 is also paid yearly for the repair of the south +bank. This was followed by the inclosure of Saltney Marsh, +in 1778.</p> +<p>Possessing as it does a greater depth of water over the bar +than the Mersey, and provided with ample railway communication +with the great industrial centres, it is probable that the Dee +may ere long become a far more important river as a vehicle of +commerce than heretofore. Of still more importance to +Hawarden is the establishment of direct communication with +Liverpool already referred to, in place of the present circuitous +route by Chester and Runcorn. By the new Swing Railway +Bridge across the Dee, direct access will be given to Birkenhead +and Liverpool by the Mersey Tunnel across the Wirral; such +communication will not only stimulate and develop to the utmost +the natural resources of the district, but will offer residential +facilities, beneficial, as it may be hoped, alike to town and +country.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p38b.jpg"> +<img alt="Map of Hawarden" src="images/p38s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="smcap">phillipson and +golder</span>, <span class="smcap">printers</span>, <span +class="smcap">chester</span>.</p> +<h2>Footnotes:</h2> +<p><a name="footnote8"></a><a href="#citation8" +class="footnote">[8]</a> He was buried at Shuldham, in +Norfolk.</p> +<p><a name="footnote9a"></a><a href="#citation9a" +class="footnote">[9a]</a> Pennant. Sir W. Stanley had +rendered the most valuable service to the King at the battle of +Bosworth; yet, upon suspicion of his favouring the cause of +Perkin Warbeck, the King had him seized at his castle at Holt and +beheaded.</p> +<p><a name="footnote9b"></a><a href="#citation9b" +class="footnote">[9b]</a> This may have been the house +known as “The Manor,” now occupied by Mr. Bakewell +Bower of the Manor Farm.</p> +<p><a name="footnote10"></a><a href="#citation10" +class="footnote">[10]</a> See Campbell’s Lives of the +Chief Justices.</p> +<p><a name="footnote11a"></a><a href="#citation11a" +class="footnote">[11a]</a> The Letters Patent recite also +the service rendered to the King by the furnishing a sum of money +sufficient for the maintenance of thirty soldiers for three years +in the Plantation of Ulster.</p> +<p><a name="footnote11b"></a><a href="#citation11b" +class="footnote">[11b]</a> Henley Park was left to John +Glynne, (son of the Chief Justice by his second wife,) through +whom it passed by marriage to Francis Tilney, Esq.</p> +<p><a name="footnote11c"></a><a href="#citation11c" +class="footnote">[11c]</a> We find Hugh Ravenscroft +mentioned as Steward of the Lordships of Hawarden and Mold, about +the year 1440. Thomas Ravenscroft, father of Honora, +afterwards Lady Glynne, by his wife Honora Sneyd of Keel Hall, +Staffordshire, was a Member of Parliament, and died in 1698, aged +28. There is a monument to him in Hawarden Church.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12"></a><a href="#citation12" +class="footnote">[12]</a> Pennant learnt that the timber +had been valued in 1665 at £5000 and subsequently sold.</p> +<p><a name="footnote13"></a><a href="#citation13" +class="footnote">[13]</a> Between 1830 and 1840 the Norman +Archæological Society visited the sites of all the Castles +of the Barons who had gone over to England with William the +Conqueror, and in none of them found any masonry older than the +second half of the eleventh century.</p> +<p><a name="footnote14"></a><a href="#citation14" +class="footnote">[14]</a> <i>e.g.</i> Mr. G. T. Clark and +Mr. J. H. Parker, from whom this account is chiefly derived.</p> +<p><a name="footnote16"></a><a href="#citation16" +class="footnote">[16]</a> The uncommon strength and +tenacity of the ancient mortar used in the Castle was especially +conspicuous in the Keep prior to the recent restorations. +In one place an enormous mass of masonry remained suspended +without other support than its own coherence and adhesion. +For security this has now been underpinned.</p> +<p><a name="footnote23a"></a><a href="#citation23a" +class="footnote">[23a]</a> In 1563 there were five +bells. In 1740 they were sold and six new ones purchased +from Abel Rudhall of Gloucester, at a cost of £628. +They bear the following inscriptions, with the initials of the +maker and the date 1745 in each case:</p> +<p>No. 1. Peace and good neighbourhood.</p> +<p>,, 2. Prosperity to all our benefactors.</p> +<p>,, 3. Prosperity to this Parish.</p> +<p>,, 4. I to the Church the living call,<br /> +And to the grave do summon all.</p> +<p>,, 5. Geo Hope, Churchwarden.<br /> +Thos Fox, Sidesman.</p> +<p>,, 6. Abel Rudhall of Gloucester cast us all.</p> +<p><a name="footnote23b"></a><a href="#citation23b" +class="footnote">[23b]</a> There is a curious carved oaken +slab, 4ft high, surmounted by a cross, which forms part of the +present Reading Desk. On the cross is an eagle, with a vine +branch and grapes above, and with a scroll in his beak inscribed, +In Domino confido. The pillar was probably in commemoration +of a maiden daughter of Randolph Pool, Rector in 1537.</p> +<p><a name="footnote24a"></a><a href="#citation24a" +class="footnote">[24a]</a> Its peculiarity consisted in its +accommodating two officiating clergymen simultaneously. The +Clerk’s Desk was, as usual, below.</p> +<p><a name="footnote24b"></a><a href="#citation24b" +class="footnote">[24b]</a> This Chancel, called the Whitley +Chancel, was restored and decorated in 1885, by the munificence +of H. Hurlbutt, Esq., of Dee Cottage, from the designs of Mr. +Frampton, and under the superintendence of Mr. Douglas, +Architect, Chester. The same gentleman erected the Lych +Gate at the North entrance to the Churchyard.</p> +<p><a name="footnote27"></a><a href="#citation27" +class="footnote">[27]</a> From Tinkersdale Quarry.</p> +<p><a name="footnote28a"></a><a href="#citation28a" +class="footnote">[28a]</a> Dante is one of the four authors +to whom Mr. Gladstone attributes the greatest <i>formative</i> +influence on his own mind; the other three being Aristotle, +Bishop Butler, and S. Augustine.</p> +<p><a name="footnote28b"></a><a href="#citation28b" +class="footnote">[28b]</a> Sir S. Glynne was one of the +highest authorities on English Ecclesiology. He visited and +described in a series of Note Books, which are carefully +preserved, nearly the whole of the old parish churches in the +country. His Notes of the Churches of Kent are published by +Murray. He died in 1874, at the age of 66. There is a +good portrait of him by Roden.</p> +<p><a name="footnote29a"></a><a href="#citation29a" +class="footnote">[29a]</a> Eldest son of Mr. and Mrs. W. H. +Gladstone.</p> +<p><a name="footnote29b"></a><a href="#citation29b" +class="footnote">[29b]</a> Sir John Glynne has recorded +that only one tree was standing about the place in 1730. +This is supposed to be the large spreading oak adjoining the +Flower Garden.</p> +<p><a name="footnote32a"></a><a href="#citation32a" +class="footnote">[32a]</a> This Church contains some +noteworthy frescoes and other mural decorations, the work of the +Rev. John Troughton, sometime curate in charge.</p> +<p><a name="footnote32b"></a><a href="#citation32b" +class="footnote">[32b]</a> A wag is said to have scratched +on the stump of a tree at Hawarden the following couplet:</p> +<p>“No matter whether oak or birch—<br /> +They all go like the Irish Church.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote33a"></a><a href="#citation33a" +class="footnote">[33a]</a> Μητι +τοι +δρυτομος +μεy’ αμεινων +ηε Βιηφι.</p> +<p><i>Homer</i>. <i>Iliad</i> xxili. 315</p> +<blockquote><p>“By skill far more than strength the woodman +fells<br /> +The sturdy oak.”<br /> +<i>Ld. Derby’s Translation</i></p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="footnote34"></a><a href="#citation34" +class="footnote">[34]</a> 1889-1890.</p> +<p><a name="footnote35a"></a><a href="#citation35a" +class="footnote">[35a]</a> Buckley Church, towards which a +grant of £4000 was made by the Commissioners for Church +building, was designed by Mr. John Gates of Halifax, and holds +740 persons. The first stone was laid by the youthful hands +of Sir S. R. Glynne and his Brother Henry, afterwards Rector, and +the Consecration was performed nine months afterwards, by the +Bishop of Chester, Dr. Gardiner, Prebendary of Lichfield, +preaching the Sermon. The Schools and Parsonage had been +previously erected by the exertions of the Hon. and Rev. George +Neville Grenville (afterwards Dean of Windsor), at a cost of +about £2000.</p> +<p><a name="footnote35b"></a><a href="#citation35b" +class="footnote">[35b]</a> Much improved by the recent +addition of a Chancel, the gift of W. Johnson, Esq., of Broughton +Hall.</p> +<p><a name="footnote35c"></a><a href="#citation35c" +class="footnote">[35c]</a> Built by Sir S. R. Glynne: +Vicarage and Schools by Lady Glynne.</p> +<p><a name="footnote36"></a><a href="#citation36" +class="footnote">[36]</a> In the Journals of the House of +Commons occurs the following entry, dated 23rd February, +1646:—“An Ordinance from the Lords for Mr. Bold, a +Minister, to be instituted into the Church of Hawarden, in +Flintshire.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote37"></a><a href="#citation37" +class="footnote">[37]</a> On the 1st October, 1770, +assembled a grand Procession, with coloured cockades, to start +the opening of a Level, designed to be driven one mile and three +quarters in length and eighty yards deep “in order” +(so the notice ran) “to lay dry a body of coal for future +ages.” The wages were to be, for boys and lads +employed about the horses, and windlasses—26 in number, 6d. +a day, smiths, carpenters and labourers, above ground +generally—42 in number, 1/4 a day,<br /> +underground laboures 42, Cutters 68 in number, 1/6 a day, +underground stewards 10 in number, 1/6 a day.</p> +<p>At this date the price of coal at the pit’s mouth was +not less than 16/- a ton, or fully double what it is at +present. The course of this notable work which effectually +drained the Hollin seam of coal may still be traced for a long +distance by its succession of ventilating shafts, finally issuing +in the ravine called Kearsley, and discharging its waters into +the brook.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HAWARDEN VISITORS' HAND-BOOK***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 20012-h.htm or 20012-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/0/1/20012 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book + Revised Edition, 1890 + + +Author: William Henry Gladstone + + + +Release Date: December 3, 2006 [eBook #20012] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HAWARDEN VISITORS' HAND-BOOK*** + + + + +Transcribed from the 1890 Phillipson & Golder edition by David Price, +ccx074@pglaf.org + + + + + +The Hawarden Visitors' Hand-Book. + + +_REVISED EDITION_. +1890. + +Chester: +PRINTED FOR THE COMPILER BY +PHILLIPSON & GOLDER, EASTGATE ROW. + +{W. Gladstone. Photographed by John Moffat, Edinburgh. 1884: p0.jpg} + +ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL. +ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. + + + + +Note as to the Illustrations. + + +The Views of the Castle Gate and of Broughton Lodge are taken from Blocks +kindly lent for the purpose of this publication by the Proprietor of the +_Leisure Hour_. And for the View of the House and Flower-garden I am +indebted to the courtesy of the Proprietors of _Harpers Magazine_. + +W. H. G. + + + + +Regulations as to Hawarden Park and Old Castle. + + +Visitors are allowed to use the Gravel Drives through the Park and Wood +between Noon and Sunset. + +Persons exceeding this permission and not keeping to the Carriage Road +will be deemed Trespassers. + +The Park is closed on Good Friday and Whit-Monday. + +Dogs not admitted. + +_Excursion parties can only be received by special permission_, _and not +later in the year than the first Monday in August_. + +_The House is in no case shown_. + + + + +Hawarden Village and Manor. + + +Hawarden, in Flintshire, lies 6 miles West of Chester, at a height of 250 +feet, overlooking a large tract of Cheshire and the Estuary of the Dee. +It is now in direct communication with the Railway world by the opening +of the Hawarden and Wirral lines. It is also easily reached from +Sandycroft Station, or from Queen's Ferry, (1.5 m.)--whence the Church is +plainly seen--or again from Broughton Hall Station (2.25m.). The Glynne +Arms offers plain but comfortable accommodation. There are also some +smaller hostelries, and a Coffee House called "The Welcome." + +The Village consists of a single street, about half a mile in length. Two +Crosses formerly stood in it; the Upper and the Lower, destroyed in 1641. +The site of the Lower Cross, at the eastern end, is marked by a Lime tree +planted in 1742. Here stood the Parish Stocks, long since perished. More +durable, but grotesque in its affectation of Grecian architecture, may be +seen close by, the old House of Correction. This spot is still called +the Cross Tree. + +The Fountain opposite the Glynne Arms is designed as a Memorial of the +Golden Wedding of the Right Hon. W. E. and Mrs. Gladstone. A little +lower down is the new Police Office; and further on is the Institute, +containing mineralogical and other specimens, together with a good +popular library. + +In Doomsday Book, Hawarden appears as a Lordship, with a church, two +ploughlands--half of one belonging to the church--half an acre of meadow, +a wood two leagues long and half a league broad. The whole was valued at +40 shillings; yet on all this were but four villeyns, six boors, and four +slaves: so low was the state of population. It was a chief manor, and +the capital one of the Hundred of Atiscross, extending from the Dee to +the Vale of Clwyd, and forming part of Cheshire. + +The name is variously spelt in the old records. In Doomsday Book it is +Haordine; elsewhere it is Weorden or Haweorden, Harden, HaWordin, +Hauwerthyn, Hawardin and Hawardine. It is pretty clearly derived from +the Welsh _Din_ or _Dinas_, castle on a hill (although some attribute to +it a Saxon derivation), and was no doubt, like the mound called Truman's +Hill, west of the church, in the earliest times a British fortification. + +No Welsh is spoken in Hawarden. By the construction of Offa's Dyke about +A.D. 790, stretching from the Dee to the Wye and passing westwards of +Hawarden, the place came into the Kingdom of Mercia, and at the time of +the Invasion from Normandy is found in the possession of the gallant +Edwin. It would appear, however, from the following story, derived, +according to Willett's History of Hawarden, from a Saxon MS., that in the +tenth century the Welsh were in possession. + +"In the sixth year of the reign of Conan, King of North Wales, there was +in the Christian Temple at a place called Harden, in the Kingdom of North +Wales, a Roodloft, in which was placed an image of the Virgin Mary, with +a very large cross, which was in the hands of the image, called Holy +Rood. About this time there happened a very hot and dry summer; so dry +that there was not grass for the cattle; upon which most of the +inhabitants went and prayed to the image or Holy Rood, that it would +cause it to rain, but to no purpose. Among the rest, the Lady Trawst +(whose husband's name was Sytsylht, a nobleman and governor of Harden +Castle) went to pray to the said Holy Rood, and she praying earnestly and +long, the image or Holy Rood fell down upon her head and killed her; upon +which a great uproar was raised, and it was concluded and resolved upon +to try the said image for the murder of the said Lady Trawst, and a jury +was summoned for this purpose, whose names were as follows:-- + + Hincot of Hancot, Span of Mancot, + Leech and Leach, and Cumberbeach. + Peet and Pate, with Corbin of the gate, + Milling and Hughet, with Gill and Pughet." + +The Jury--so continues the story--found the Holy Rood guilty of wilful +murder, and the sentence was proposed that she should be hanged. This +was opposed by Span, who suggested that, as they wanted rain, it would be +best to drown her. This, again, was objected to by Corbin, who advised +to lay her on the sands of the river and see what became of her. This +was done, with the result that the image was carried by the tide to some +low land near the wall of Caerleon--(supposed to be Chester)--where it +was found by the Cestrians drowned and dead, and by them buried at the +gate where found, with this inscription:-- + + The Jews their God did crucify, + The Hardeners theirs did drown, + 'Cos, with their wants she'd not comply, + And lies under this cold stone. + +Hence the said low land, or island, as it may have been, is supposed to +have got the name of the Rood-Eye, or Roodee as at present. + +After the Conquest, Hawarden was included in the vast grant made by +William to his kinsman, Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, which included +Cheshire and all the seaboard as far as Conway. The Earl had his +residence at Chester, and there held his Courts and Parliament. His +sword of dignity, referred to in the heading of Common Law Indictments, +is preserved in the British Museum. Among the earliest residents at +Hawarden occurs the name of Roger Fitzvalence, son of one of the +Conqueror's followers; subsequently it continued in the possession of the +Earls of Chester till the death of Ranulf de Blundeville, the last earl, +in 1231, when, with Castle Rising and the 'Earl's Half' in Coventry, it +passed, through his sister Mabel, to her descendants, the Montalts. + +The Barons de Monte Alto, sometimes styled de Moaldis or Mohaut (now +Mold, 6 miles from Hawarden, where the mound of the castle remains), were +hereditary seneschals of Chester and lords of Mold. Roger de Montalt +inherited Hawarden, Coventry, and Castle Rising, and married Julian, +daughter of Roger de Clifford, Justiciary of Chester and North Wales, who +was captured at the storming of the Castle by Llewelyn, in 1281. Robert +de Montalt the last lord, died childless {8} in 1329, when the barony +became extinct. He it was who signed the celebrated letter to the Pope +in 1300 as Dominus de Hawardyn. + +Robert de Montalt bequeathed his estates to Isabella, Queen of Edward +II., and Hawarden afterwards passed by exchange, in 1337, to Sir William +de Montacute, Earl of Salisbury. From that family it reverted in 1406, +by attainder, to the Crown, and in 1411 was granted by Henry IV. to his +second son, Thomas, Duke of Clarence. Clarence dying without issue in +1420, it reverted once more to the Crown, but finally, in 1454, passed to +Sir Thomas Stanley, Comptroller of the Household and afterwards Lord +Stanley, whose son became the first Earl of Derby. In 1495, Henry VII. +honoured Hawarden with a visit, and made some residence here for the +amusement of stag-hunting, but his primary motive was to soothe the Earl +(husband to Margaret, the King's mother) after the ungrateful execution +of his brother, Sir William Stanley. {9a} + +Hawarden remained in the possession of the Stanleys for nearly 200 years. +William, the sixth Earl, when advanced in years, surrendered the property +to his son James, reserving to himself 1000 pounds a year, and retiring +to a convenient house {9b} near the Dee, spent there the remainder of his +life, and died in 1642. James, distinguished for his learning and +gallantry, warmly espoused the cause first of Charles I. and afterwards +that of his son. Under his roof Charles, when a fugitive, halted on his +way from Chester to Denbigh, on Sept. 25, 1645. After the battle of +Worcester, in 1657, James was taken prisoner, tried by Court Martial, and +executed at Bolton in the same year. + +In 1653, the Lordship of Hawarden was purchased from the agents of +sequestration by Serjeant (afterwards Chief Justice) Glynne; and in 1661 +the sale was confirmed by Charles, Earl of Derby. + +The Glynnes are first heard of at Glyn Llivon, in Carnarvonshire, in +1567. They trace their descent, however, much further back, to Cilmin +Droed Dhu (Cilmin of the Black Foot), who came into Wales from the North +of Britain with his uncle Mervyn, King of the Isle of Man, who married +Esyllt, heiress of Conan, King of North Wales, about A.D. 830. The +territory allotted to him extended from Carnarvon to beyond Clynnog. +Edward Llwyd was the first to assume the name of Glynne, which his +descendants continued till the male succession ended in John Glynne, +whose daughter and heiress, Frances, married Thomas Wynne of Bodnau, +created a baronet in 1742. His son, Sir John, is said to have pulled +down the old strong mansion of Cilmin, and erected the present one. His +son again, Sir Thomas, was created a Peer of Ireland for his services in +the American war, whose descendant is the present Lord Newborough. The +father of the Serjeant was Sir William Glynne, Knight, 21st in descent +from Cilmin Droed Dhu. The Serjeant early espoused the cause of the +popular party, perhaps rather from ambition than from principle. His +abilities were soon recognized, and while still young he became High +Steward of Westminster and Recorder of London. In 1640 he was elected +Member for Westminster as a strong Presbyterian. He was actively +concerned in conducting the charge against Lord Strafford. In 1646 he +opposed in Parliament Cromwell's Self-denying Ordinance, and was thrown +into prison. He found means, however, to get reconciled to Cromwell in +1648, and became one of his Council and Serjeant-at-law. In 1654 he +became Chamberlain of Chester, and in the following year succeeded Rolle +as Lord Chief Justice--which office he discharged with credit. {10} In +1656 he was returned for Carnarvonshire, and in the Rump Parliament he +sat again for Westminster. Meanwhile he contrived to ingratiate himself +with the opposite side, and in 1660 we find him assisting on horseback at +the coronation of Charles II. He now resigned the Chief Justiceship, +made himself very useful in settling legal difficulties consequent upon +the usurpation, and became as loyal as any cavalier: the King, as a mark +of his favour, {11a} bestowing a baronetcy upon his son in 1661. He +possessed Henley Park, {11b} in Surrey, and an estate at Bicester, in +Oxfordshire, (of which church, as well as Ambrosden, he was patron) where +the family resided. He died at his house in Westminster in 1666, and was +buried in a vault beneath the altar of S. Margaret's Church. + +His son, Sir William Glynne, the first baronet, sat in Parliament for +Woodstock, and died in 1721. It was not till 1723 that the Glynnes moved +to Hawarden, from Bicester. An old stone records the building of a house +in Broadlane in 1727. In 1732 Sir John Glynne, nephew of Sir William, +married Honora Conway, co-heiress with her sister Catherine of the +Ravenscrofts of Bretton and Broadlane, an old family connected with +Hawarden for many generations. {11c} This lady was the great great grand- +daughter of Sir Kenelm Digby, and with her one-half of the Ravenscroft +lands came into possession of the Glynnes; the other half in Bretton +passing eventually to the Grosvenors. She died in 1769. In 1752 Sir +John built a new house at Broadlane, which has since been the residence +of the family. + +Though not the founder of the _family_, Sir John Glynne may fairly be +considered the founder of the _place_, and of the estate in its modern +sense. Though he sat for five Parliaments for the Borough of Flint, he +devoted himself largely to domestic concerns and to the improvement of +his property by inclosure, drainage, and otherwise. The present beauty +of the Park is in a great measure due to his energy and foresight. Upon +the acquisition of Broadlane Hall, he at once took in hand the +re-planting of the demesne, {12} first in Broadlane and about the Old +Castle, and in 1747 on the Bilberry Hill. He also turned his attention +to the developement of the minerals on the estate, and attempted the +carriage of coals to Chester by water. He died in 1777. + +His Grandson, Sir S. R. Glynne, married in 1806 the Hon. Mary Neville, +daughter of Lord Braybrooke and of Catherine, sister to George, Marquess +of Buckingham, and by her had four children: Stephen, eighth and last +Baronet, born September 22, 1807; Henry, Rector of Hawarden born +September 9th, 1810; Catherine, now Mrs. Gladstone, born January 6, 1812; +and Mary, afterwards Lady Lyttelton, born July 22, 1813. He died in 1815 +at the age of 35 years, and of his children Mrs. Gladstone alone +survives. Sir Stephen, the last Baronet, died unmarried in 1874, +surviving his brother the Rector only two years; and the Lordship of the +Manor, together, by a family arrangement, with the estates, then devolved +upon the present owner. + +{Catherine Gladstone. Photographed by G. Watmough Webster, Chester: +p12.jpg} + + + + +The Old Castle. + + +The Ruins of Hawarden Castle occupy a lofty eminence, guarded on the S. +by a steep ravine, and on the other sides by artificial banks and +ditches, partly favoured by the formation of the ground. The space so +occupied measures about 150 yards in diameter. Upon the summit stands +the Keep, towering some 50 feet above the main ward, and some 200 feet +above the bottom of the ravine. + +"The place presents," says Mr. G. T. Clark, "in a remarkable degree the +features of a well-known class of earthworks found both in England and in +Normandy. This kind of fortification by mound, bank and ditch was in use +in the ninth, tenth, and even in the eleventh centuries, before masonry +was general. {13} The mound was crowned with a strong circular house of +timber, such as in the Bayeaux tapestry the soldiers are attempting to +set on fire. The Court below and the banks beyond the ditches were +fenced with palisades and defences of that character." + +It was usual after the Conquest to replace these old fortifications with +the thick and massive masonry characteristic of Norman Architecture. +Hawarden, however, bears no marks of the Norman style though the Keep is +unusually substantial. It appears, according to the best authorities, +{14} to be the work of one period, and that, probably, the close of the +reign of Henry III. or the early part of that of Edward I. Hence Roger +Fitzvalence, the first possessor after the Conquest, and the Montalts, +who held it by Seneschalship to Hugh Lupus, must have been content to +allow the old defences to remain, as any masonry constructed by them +could scarcely have been so entirely removed as to show no trace of the +style prevalent at the time. + +The Keep is circular, 61 feet in diameter, and originally about 40 feet +high. The wall is 15 feet thick at the base, and 13 feet at the level of +the rampart walk--dimensions of unusual solidity even at the Norman +period, and rare indeed in England under Henry III. or the Edwards. The +battlements have been replaced by a modern wall, but the junction with +the old work may be readily detected. In the Keep were two floors--the +lower, no doubt, a store room without fire-place or seat--the upper a +state room lighted from three recesses and entered from the portcullis +chamber. + +Next to this last is the Chapel, or rather _Sacrarium_, with a cinquefoil- +headed doorway, and a small recess for a piscina, with a projecting +bracket and fluted foot. Against the West wall is a stone bench, and +above it a rude squint through which the elevation of the Host could be +seen from the adjoining window recess. Of the two windows, one is +square, the other lancet-headed. The altar is modern. There is a mural +gallery in the thickness of the wall running round nearly the whole +circle of the Keep, and with remarkably strong vaulting. + +Descending from the Keep and inclosing the space below, were two walls or +curtains, as they are technically called. That on the N. side, 7 feet +thick and 25 feet high, is still tolerably perfect, and within it lay the +way between the Keep and the main ward. Of the South curtain only a +fragment remains attached to the Keep. + +The entrance to the court-yard--now the so-called bowling-green--was on +the N. side. On the South side, on the first floor (the basement being +probably a cellar), was the Hall, 30 feet high from its timber floor to +the wall plate. Two lofty windows remain and traces of a third, and +between them are the plain chamfered corbel whence sprung the open roof. +Below the hall is seen a small _ambry_ or cupboard in the wall. + +Outside the curtain on the East side, where the visitor ascends to the +Courtyard, are remains of a kitchen and other offices with apartments +over, resting upon the scarp of the ditch. + +From the N.E. angle of the curtain projects a spur work protected by two +curtains, one of which, 4 feet thick and 24 feet high, only remains, with +a shouldered postern door opening on the scarp of the ditch at its +junction with the main curtain. This spur work was the entrance to the +Castle, and contains a deep pit, now called the Dungeon, and a Barbican +or Sally-port beyond. The pit is 12 feet deep and measures 27 feet x 10 +feet across. It may possibly have served the double purpose of defence +and of water supply--there being no other apparent source. In the +footbridge across the pit may have been a trap-door, or other means for +suddenly breaking communication in case of need. Overhead probably lay +the roadway for horsemen with a proper drawbridge. The thickness of the +walls indicates their having been built to a considerable height, +sufficient probably to form parapets masking the passage of the bridge. + +In the mound beyond, or counterscarp, was the gate-house and Barbican, +containing a curious fan-shaped chamber up a flight of steps. While the +earth-works surrounding the Castle are the oldest part of the +fortifications--possibly, thinks Mr. Clark, of the tenth century--the +dressed masonry and the different material of the Barbican and Dungeon- +pit, together with some of the exterior offices, show them to be of +somewhat later date than the main building. They have, in fact, as Mr. +Clark remarks, more of an unfinished than a partially destroyed +appearance. The squared and jointed stones, so easily removable and +ready to hand, {16} proved no doubt a tempting quarry to subsequent +owners of Hawarden, who perhaps shared the faults of a period when +neither the architectural nor historical value of ancient remains was +generally appreciated. + +It now remains to trace the history of the Castle, so far as it is known +to us. + +In 1264 a memorable conference took place within its walls between Simon +de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales, at +which each promised to aid the other in promoting the execution of their +respective plans. The King, who, with the Prince of Wales, was the +Earl's prisoner, was compelled to renounce his rights, and the Castle was +given up to Llewelyn. On the suppression of de Montfort's rebellion the +Castle reverted to the Crown, and Llewelyn was called upon by the Papal +Legate, Ottoboni, to surrender it. This he at first declined, but being +deserted by the Earl, who at the same time, in order to put an end to the +conflict, offered to him his daughter Eleanor in marriage agreed +afterwards to a treaty by which the Castle was to be destroyed, and +Robert de Montalt to be reinstated in the possession of his lands in +Hawarden, but to be restrained from restoring the fortification for +thirty years. + +This stipulation appears to have been violated, for in 1281 the Welsh +rebelled, and under David and Llewelyn (who then made up their quarrel), +an attack was made by night upon the Castle, then styled Castrum Regis, +which was successful. Roger de Clifford, Justiciary of Chester, was +taken prisoner, and the Castle with much bloodshed and cruelty stormed +and partly burnt on Palm Sunday. The outrage was repeated in the next +year (Nov. 6th, 1282), when the Justice's elder son, also Roger Clifford, +was slain. Soon after this Llewelyn died, Wales was entirely subjugated, +and David executed as a traitor. + +To this period may most probably be assigned the present structure. A +Keep, such as that now standing is not likely to have been successfully +assaulted in two successive years; nor does internal evidence favour the +idea that it was the actual work taken by the Welsh. Robert, the last of +the Montalts, was a wealthy man, and in all probability it was during his +Lordship, between 1297 and 1329, that the Castle, as we now see it, was +built. Though the unusual thickness of the walls of the Keep might be +thought more in keeping with the Norman period, the general details, as +already stated, the polygonal mural gallery and interior, and the +entrance, evidently parts of the original work, are very decidedly +Edwardian. + +Of the subsequent history of the Castle, we have unfortunately nothing to +record until we come to the Civil War between Charles the First and the +Parliament. On Nov. 11th, 1643, Sir William Brereton, who had declared +for the Parliament, appeared with his adherents at Hawarden Castle, where +he was welcomed by Robert Ravenscroft and John Aldersey, who had charge +of it in the name of the King. Sir William established himself in the +Castle, and harassed the garrison of Chester, which was for the King, by +cutting off the supplies of coals, corn and other provisions, which they +had formerly drawn from the neighbourhood. Meanwhile the Archbishop of +York, writing from Conway to the Duke of Ormond announced the betrayal of +the Castle and appealed for assistance. In response to this a force from +Ireland was landed at Mostyn in the same month, and employed to reduce +the fortress, garrisoned by 120 men of Sir Thomas Middleton's Regiment. +The garrison received by a trumpet a verbal summons to surrender, which +gave occasion to a correspondence, followed by a further and more +peremptory summons from Captain Thomas Sandford, which ran as follows:-- + + Gentlemen: I presume you very well know or have heard of my condition + and disposition; and that I neither give nor take quarter. I am now + with my Firelocks (who never yet neglected opportunity to correct + rebels) ready to use you as I have done the Irish; but loth I am to + spill my countrymen's blood: wherefore by these I advise you to your + fealty and obedience towards his Majesty; and show yourselves faithful + subjects, by delivering the Castle into my hands for His Majesty's + use--otherwise if you put me to the least trouble or loss of blood to + force you, expect no quarter for man woman or child. I hear you have + some of our late Irish army in your company: they very well know me + and that my Firelocks use not to parley. Be not unadvised, but think + of your liberty, for I vow all hopes of relief are taken from you; and + our intents are not to starve you but to batter and storm you and then + hang you all, and follow the rest of that rebellious crewe. I am no + bread-and-cheese rogue, but as ever a Loyalist, and will ever be while + I can write or name + + THOMAS SANDFORD, + Nov, 28, 1643. Captain of Firelocks. + + I expect your speedy answer this Tuesday night at Broadlane Hall, + where I am now, your near neighbour. + +Reinforcements having arrived from Chester, this was followed by a brisk +attack on the 3rd December, whereupon the garrison being short of +provisions, a white flag was hung out from the walls, and the Castle +surrendered on the following day to Sir Michael Emley. It was held by +the Royalists for two years, but after the surrender of Chester, in Feb. +1646, Sir William Neal, the governor, capitulated (after receiving the +King's sanction--then at Oxford--) to Major-General Mytton after a +month's siege. It was probably during these operations that the +specimens of stone and iron cannon balls still remaining were used. + +An entry in the Commons' Journals refers to this last event, dated 16th +March, 1645. + +Ordered: That Mr. Fogge the Minister shall have the sum of 50 pounds +bestowed upon him for his pains in bringing the good news of the taking +of the Castle of Hawarden; and that the Committee of Lords and Commons +for advance of Moneys at Haberdashers' Hall do pay the same accordingly. + +The Lords' concurrence to be desired herein. + +In the following year there is an Order "That the Castles of Hawarden, +Flint, and Ruthland be disgarrisoned and demolished, all but a tower in +Flint Castle, to be reserved for a gaol for the County"; and a +confirmation of it follows in the next year, dated 19th July, 1647. + +These orders were no doubt forthwith executed, and of Flint and Rhuddlan +little now remains. At Hawarden gunpowder has been used to blow up +portions of the Keep. Sir William Glynne, son of the Chief Justice, +twenty or thirty years later, carried further the work of destruction. +Sir John Glynne, too, is said to have made free with the materials of the +Castle, and certain it is that a vast amount has been carted away and +used up in walls and for other purposes. His successors, however, have +done their utmost to make amends for these ravages, and to preserve the +ruins from further injury. The entrance and the winding stair by which +the visitor mounts to the top of the Keep are a restoration skilfully +effected not long ago under the direction of Mr. Shaw of Saddleworth. The +view embraces a wide range of country, North, East, and South, extending +from Liverpool to the Wrekin: on the West it is bounded by Moel Fammau or +Queen Mountain, on the summit of which is seen the remnant of the fallen +obelisk raised to commemorate the 50th year of the reign of George III. +Round about lie the Woods and the Park, presenting a happy mixture of +wild and pastoral beauty; while close beneath the Old stands the New +Castle, affecting in its turreted outline some degree of congruity with +its prototype, but much more contrasting with it in its home-like air, +and the luxury of its lawns and flower-beds. + +Not less striking is the view of the Ruins from below. Here judgment and +taste have combined with great natural advantages of position to produce +an exceedingly picturesque effect. From the flower garden a wide sweep +of lawn, flanked by majestic oaks and beeches, carries the eye up to the +foot-bridge crossing the moat, thence to the ivy-mantled walls which +overhang it, and upward again to the flag-topt tower that crowns the +height. Clusters of ivy, and foliage here and there intervening, serve +to soften and beautify the mouldering remains. The scene brings to our +minds the words of the poet-- + + "The old order changeth, yielding place to new"; + +and, conscious as we may be that society in our day has its dangers and +disorders of a different and more insidious kind, we are thankful that +our lot is not cast in the harsh and troublous times of our history. All +around us the former scenes of rapine and violence are changed to +fertility and peace. The Old Castle serves well to illustrate the +contrast. Its hugely solid walls, reared 600 years ago with so much +pains and skill to repel the invader and to overawe the lawless, have +played their part, and are themselves abandoned to solitude and decay. +Within the arches which once echoed to the clang of arms the owls have +their home; while the rooks from the tree-tops around seem to chant the +_requiem_ of the past. + +{Ruins of Old Castle: p21.jpg} + + + + +The Church. + + +{The Church: p22.jpg} + +Hawarden Church, with its large graveyard attached, finely situated +overlooking the estuary of the Dee, is supposed to have been built about +A.D. 1275, and has much solidity and dignity of structure. The patron +saint is S. Deiniol, founder of the Collegiate monastery at Bangor, and +about A.D. 550 made first Bishop of that See. In the old records he is +styled one of the three "Gwynvebydd" or holy men of the Isle of Britain. +He was buried in Bardsey Island. A place still called "Daniel's +Ash"--perhaps a corruption of Deiniol--may be the very spot where he +gathered his disciples round him. Two Dedication festivals are observed, +the one on S. Deiniol's Day, December 10th, the other on the Sunday after +Holy Cross Day, September 14th. The Church has a central tower +containing six bells, {23a} a chancel with a south aisle called the +Whitley Chancel (after the Whitleys of Aston), and a nave with blind +clerestory and two aisles. There is a division in the roof between the +chancel and the nave which has the appearance of a transept, but not +extended beyond the line of the aisles. The axis of the chancel deviates +from that of the nave. + +In 1764 the nave and aisles were newly pewed in place of the old benches, +and the floor flagged instead of being strewn with rushes. In 1810 a +gallery was erected at the west end and an organ placed in it; the +gallery was enlarged and a new organ purchased in 1836. {23b} + +Great improvements were made about the year 1855 by the Rev. Henry +Glynne, Rector: the organ and singers were removed from the west to the +east end, the pews converted into open seats, and the cumbrous "three +decker" pulpit and reading desk {24a} exchanged for simpler furniture. +Unfortunately on the 29th October, 1857, a disastrous fire occurred, +almost entirely destroying the roof and fittings of the Church. Its +restoration was at once placed in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, +architect, who improved the occasion by adding the small spire which now +with excellent effect crowns the otherwise somewhat stunted tower. An +organ chamber was now added on the N. side of the chancel, and on the +14th July, 1859, with Sermons from the late Bishop Wilberforce, Dean Hook +and others, the Church was re-opened. The whole expenditure was about +8000 pounds. + +The Reredos is a representation of the Last Supper in alabaster, and was +erected as a memorial to the Rev. Henry Glynne, Rector of the Parish for +38 years. In the side chancel {24b} under the 'Vine' window, is a +recumbent figure of his brother, Sir Stephen Glynne, who died two years +later in 1874--a beautiful work by Noble. To his memory also were given +by the parishioners the wrought-iron gates at the main entrance to the +Churchyard. + +Upon the altar table stands a handsome brass cross mounted on _rosso +antico_ the gift of the parishioners to the present Rector. The old +Communion plate was twice stolen, viz., on April 13th, 1821, when it was +recovered, being found beaten flat and buried near the Higher Ferry; and +finally in 1859. The Churchyard was enlarged in 1859, by gift of the +late Rector. The old Cross which stood in the Churchyard in 1663, has +disappeared: possibly the Sun-dial now occupies its place. + +The Parish Register dates from the year 1585; and the list of Rectors +goes back to 1180. + +The Living is what is termed 'a Peculiar,' and was formerly exempt from +Episcopal jurisdiction. The Rectors granted marriage licenses, proved +wills, and had their own consistorial Courts and Proctors. The Court was +held in the Eastern Bay of the Chancel Aisle: the seal, still used, +represents Daniel in the Lion's Den, with the legend 'Sigillum peculiaris +et exemptae jurisdictionis de Hawarden'. These privileges, originally +granted by the Pope, were continued at the Reformation; but in 1849 the +Parish was definitely attached to the Diocese of S. Asaph, and the power +of granting marriage licenses now alone remains. + +The Tithes were in 1093, granted by Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, to the +Monks of S. Werburgh. In 1288 Pope Nicholas the 3rd, granted them to +King Edward the 1st, for six years. They were then valued at 13 pounds +6s. 8d. At the Reformation they were estimated at 66 pounds 6s. 5.5d. + +The Rectory was greatly enlarged by the Hon. George Neville Grenville, +Rector from 1814 to 1834, and afterwards Dean of Windsor. The garden +comprises nearly six acres and is charmingly laid out. + +A list of Rectors of Hawarden is appended. Up to the middle of the 15th +century exchanges were very frequent. + +1180. William de Montalt + +1209. Ralph de Montalt + +1216. Hugh +William + +1272. Roger +Richard de Osgodly + +1315. William de Melton + +1317. John Walewayn + +1331. Thomas de Boynton + +1333. Roger de Gildesburgh + +1344. John de Baddeley + +1350. James de Audlegh + +1353. John Bexsyn + +1357. Robert de Coningham + +1368. William Pectoo + +1391. Roger de Davenport +Henry Merston + +1423. Marmaduke Lumley + +1425. John Millyngton + +1466. James Stanley + +1478. Matthew Fowler + +1487. James Stanley + +1505. Randolph Pool + +1557. Arthur Swift + +1561. Thomas Jackson + +1605. John Phillips D.D. + +1633. Thomas Draycott + +1636. Robert Browne + +1638. Christopher Pasley D.D. + +1640. Edward Bold + +1655. Lawrence Fogge D.D. + +1664. Orlando Fogge + +1666. John Price D.D. + +1685. Beaumont Percival D.D. + +1714. B. Gardiner + +1726. Francis Glynne + +1728. John Fletcher + +1742. Richard Williams + +1770. Stephen Glynne + +1780. Randolph Crewe + +1814. George Neville-Grenville + +1834. Henry Glynne + +1872. Stephen E. Gladstone + +{Interior of Church: p26.jpg} + + + + +The Modern Residence and Park. + + +The modern Residence was built in 1752 upon the site of Broadlane Hall, +the seat of the Ravenscrofts, an old house of wood and plaster, which +came into Sir John Glynne's possession by his marriage with Honora +Conway, daughter of Henry Conway and Honora Ravenscroft. Originally a +square brick house, it was afterwards in 1809 extended by the addition of +the Library on the West side and of the Kitchen and other offices on the +East; the whole being cased in stone {27} and castellated. The entrance +was now turned from the S. to the N. front--the turnpike road, which +passed in front of the house and along the Moat to the Village, having +been diverted in 1804--and the present Flower-garden constructed with the +old Thorn-tree in the centre. Quite recently has been added the block at +the N.W. angle of the house, containing Mr. Gladstone's Study, or, as he +calls it, the 'Temple of Peace.' + +{House and Flower Garden: p27.jpg} + +The most striking feature about this room is that (to use the phrase of a +writer in Harper's Magazine) it is built about with bookcases. Instead +of being ranged along the wall in the usual way, they stand out into the +room at right angles, each wide enough to hold a double row facing either +way. Intervals are left sufficient to give access to the books, and Mr. +Gladstone prides himself upon the economy of space obtained by this +arrangement. His Library numbers near 20,000 volumes, many of which have +overflowed into adjoining rooms, where they are similarly stored. Of +this number Theology claims a large proportion; Homer, Dante, {28a} and +Shakespeare also have their respective departments, and any resident +visitor is at liberty, on entering his or her name in a book kept for the +purpose, to borrow any volume at pleasure. Three writing-tables are +seen. At one Mr. Gladstone sits when busy in political work and +correspondence; the second is reserved for literary and especially, +Homeric studies; the third is Mrs. Gladstone's. "It is," remarked Mr. +Gladstone to the writer above mentioned, with a wistful glance at the +table where 'Vaticanism' and 'Juventus Mundi' were written, "A long time +since I sat there." About the room are to be seen busts and photographs +of old friends and colleagues--Sidney Herbert, the Duke of Newcastle, +Canning, Tennyson, Lord Richard Cavendish, and others, while in the +corners lurk numerous walking sticks and axes. + +Adjoining Mr. Gladstone's room is the Library of the house--a +well-proportioned and comfortable room, well stored with books, prominent +among which topography and ecclesiology testify to the predelictions of +the late owner, Sir Stephen Glynne. {28b} There are some good family +portraits and other pictures, among which are specimens of Sir Peter +Lely, Snyders, and a very fine likeness of Sir Kenelm Digby by Vandyke. +There is a fine picture by Millais of Mr. Gladstone and his grandson, +{29a} painted in 1889, and another good portrait of him by the late F. +Holl; also a much-admired likeness of Mrs. Gladstone by Herkomer. + +Shading the windows of Mr. Gladstone's Study is a singular circle of +limes of some 20 feet in diameter, which goes by the name of Sir John +Glynne's Dressing-Room. Mounting the slope towards the old castle is the +Broad Walk, terminating in an artificial amphitheatre at the top, made by +Sir John Glynne to give employment in a time of distress. The grounds +abound in fine trees, {29b} and in rhododendrons which in spring form +masses of bloom. + +In 1819, Prince Leopold, the late King of the Belgians, visited the +Castle; and the small wooden door on the south side of the Ruins is still +called after him. The Visitors' Book at the Lodge also records, in +autograph, the names of Her Gracious Majesty, as Princess Victoria, and +her mother, the Duchess of Kent, in or about the year 1833. + +In the palmy days of the Royal British Bowmen the Castle was the frequent +scene of bow-meetings; the peculiar green costumes and feathers worn by +both the ladies and gentlemen competitors contributing to the picturesque +effect of these gatherings. Simultaneously with one of these Archery +Meetings, in the year, we believe, 1835, was held a Fancy Bazaar, +commemorated in some admirable lines by Mr. R. E. Warburton of Arley +Hall, which will be read with pleasure in connection with more recent +bazaars held in the same place. + + While tents are pitched in Hawarden's peaceful vale, + And harmless shafts the platted targe assail; + While now the bow (the archers more intent + On making love than making war) is bent; + Beneath those towers, where erst their fathers drew + In deadly conflict bows of tougher yew; + Lo! Charity, a native of the skies, + Whose smile betrays her through a vain disguise, + Mounts the steep hill, and 'neath th' o'erhanging wall, + The canvass stretch'd in triumph, plants her stall; + In gay profusion o'er the counter pours + Her glittering wares and ranges all her stores. + + Beneath the magic of her touch behold + Transformed at once the warlike aims of old! + The mighty falchion to a penknife shrinks, + The mailed meshes from the purse's links; + The sturdy lance a bodkin now appears, + A bunch of tooth-picks once a hundred spears; + A painted toy behold the keen-edged axe! + See men of iron turned to dolls of wax! + + The once broad shield contracted now in span + Raised as a screen or fluttered as a fan; + The gleaming helm a hollow thimble proves, + And weighty gauntlets dwindle into gloves. + The plumes that winged the arrow through the sky, + Waft to and fro the shuttlecock on high; + Two trusty swords are into scissors cross'd, + And dinted breastplates are in corsets lost; + While dungeon chains to gentler use consigned, + Now silken laces, tighten stays behind. + + Approach! nor weapons more destructive fear, + Where'er ye turn, than pins and needles here. + While hobbling Age along the pathway crawls, + By aid of crutch to scale the Castle's walls: + With eager steps advance, ye generous youths, + Draw purses all, and strip the loaded booths. + Bear each away some trophy from the steep, + Take each a keepsake ere ye quit the keep! + Come, every stranger, every guest draw nigh! + No peril waits you save from beauty's eye. + +Hard by the Castle and across the yard will be found Mrs. Gladstone's +Orphanage, containing from 20 to 30 boys. Close by is a little Home of +Rest established by Mrs. Gladstone, for old and infirm women. The house +in which the orphans are lodged is called Diglane, and was formerly the +residence of the Crachley family. It was sold to Sir John Glynne in +1749. + +{Gateway--Castle, shewing Orphanage: p31.jpg} + +The Park is about 250 acres in extent, to which have to be added the +Bilberry Wood and Warren Plantations. It is divided into two parts by a +ravine passing immediately under the old Castle and traversing its entire +length. The further side is called the Deer Park, inclosed and stocked +by Sir John Glynne in 1739. Its banks and glades, richly timbered, and +overgrown with bracken, afford from various points beautiful views over +the plain of Chester, with the bold projections of the Frodsham and +Peckforton hills. Along the bottom of the hollow flows Broughton brook. +Two Waterfalls occur in its course through the Park: the lower is called +the Ladies' Fall: near the upper one stood a Mill, now removed, the +erection of which is commemorated by a large stone, bearing the following +inscription: + + "Trust in God for Bread, and to the King for Justice, Protection and + Peace. + This Mill was built A.D. 1767 + By Sir John Glynne, Bart., + Lord of this Manor: + Charles Howard Millwright. + Wheat was at this year 9s. and Barley at 5s. 6d. a Bushel. Luxury was + at a great height, and Charity extensive, but the pool were starving, + riotous, and hanged." + +Between this spot and the "Old Lane," a sandy gully, lined with old +beeches, and once the road to Wrexham--now tenanted by rabbits--are two +large oaks, 17 and 18 feet in circumference respectively. Another tree, +a beautiful specimen of the _fagus pendula_, or feathering beech, a great +favourite with Mr. Gladstone, deserves attention. It stands a few yards +from the iron railing near the moat of the old Castle, and measures 17ft. +11 in. round. The sycamores at Hawarden are particularly fine. Nor +should the visitor omit seeing the noble grove of beeches at the Ladies' +Fall. + +The road which descends the steep hill under the Old Castle and crosses +the brook, leads up through the Park to the Bilberry Wood. Twenty +minutes' walk through the wood brings one to the "Top Lodge" (1.75 miles +from the Castle). From this point either the walk may be continued +through the further plantations to the pretty Church of St. John's at +Penymynydd, {32a} or, if necessary Broughton Hall Station, 2.5 miles +distant, may be gained direct. The inclosures and the plantations on +this portion of the estate, called the Warren, were made in 1798, and +command some very fine views. The high road through Pentrobin and +Tinkersdale offers a pleasant return route to Hawarden. + +Everyone has heard of Mr. Gladstone's prowess as a woodcutter, and to +some it may even have been matter of surprise to see no scantiness of +trees in the Park at Hawarden. It is true that he attacks trees with the +same vigour as he attacks abuses in the body politic, {32b} but he +attacks them on the same principle--they are blemishes and not ornaments. +No one more scrupulously respects a sound and shapely tree than Mr. +Gladstone; and if he is prone to condemn those that show signs of decay, +he is always ready to listen to any plea that may be advanced on their +behalf by other members of the family. In this, as in other matters, +doubtful points will of course arise; but there can be no question that a +policy of inert conservatism is an entire mistake. Besides the natural +growth and decay of trees, a hundred other causes are ever at work to +affect their structure and appearance; and the facts of the landscape, +thus continually altering, afford sufficient occupation for the eye and +hand of the woodman. It was late in life that Mr. Gladstone took to +woodcutting. Tried first as an experiment, it answered so admirably the +object of getting the most complete exercise in a short time that, though +somewhat slackened of late, it has never been abandoned. His procedure +is characteristic. No exercise is taken in the morning, save the daily +walk to morning service but between 3 and 4 in the afternoon he sallies +forth, axe on shoulder, accompanied by one or more of his sons. The +scene of action reached, there is no pottering; the work begins at once, +and is carried on with unflagging energy. Blow follows blow, delivered +with that skill which his favourite author {33a} reminds us is of more +value to the woodman than strength, together with a force and energy that +soon tells its tale on the tree + + * * * * Illa usque minatur + Et tremefacta comam concusso vertice nutat, + Vulneribus donec paulatim evicta supremum + Congemuit, traxitque jugis avulsa ruinam. + + _Virgil OEn II._ 626 + + "It still keeps nodding to its doom, + Still bows its head and shakes its plume, + Till, by degrees o'ercome, one groan + It heaves, and on the hill lies prone." + + _Conington's Translation_. + +At the advanced age he has now attained, it can hardly be expected that +Mr. Gladstone can very frequently indulge in what has been his favourite +recreation for the past twenty-five years. The present winter {34} +however saw the fall of at least one large tree, in which he took a full +share--a Spanish chestnut, measuring 10ft. at the top of the face, and +those who were present can testify to the undiminished vigour with which +the axe was wielded on that occasion. + + + + +Parish and District of Hawarden. + + +The Parish of Hawarden is a very extensive one, containing upwards of +17,000 acres, with a population, according to the census of 1871, of +7088. Sixteen townships are included in it; Hawarden, Broadlane, Mancot +Aston, Shotton, Pentrobin, Moor, Rake, Manor, Bannel, Bretton, Broughton, +Ewloe Wood, Ewloe Town, Saltney and Sealand. To provide for the +spiritual wants of so large a district, four daughter churches have been +built--viz.: S. Matthew's, Buckley, {35a} in 1822, S. Mary's, Broughton, +{35b} in 1824, S. Johns, Penymynydd, {35c} in 1843, and S. Bartholomew's, +Sealand, in 1867. The work of the Parish Church is now further +supplemented by three new School-chapels at Shotton, Sandycroft and +Ewloe. The chief portion of Saltney, and the district of Buckley, have +been recently separated from Hawarden for ecclesiastical purposes. + +{Lodge Gate--Broughton Approach: p35.jpg} + +The Rector of Hawarden has also to provide for the management and support +of eight National Schools, involving an annual expenditure of 1460 +pounds. The requirements of the Education Act of 1870 involved an outlay +of 4300 pounds raised entirely from local sources. + +The patronage of the living is vested in the Lord of the Manor. {36} The +Rev. S. E. Gladstone, the present Rector, was appointed by the late Sir +Stephen Glynne in 1872. + +The Grammar School is finely situated, near the Church, and has +accommodation for 50 scholars, inclusive of 20 boarders. The income from +endowment is 24 pounds. + +The temporary building adjoining contains a portion of the Library of the +Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone. + +The land about Hawarden varies much in quality. The best lies towards +the river and on Saltney, where are large and well cultivated farms. On +the higher ground in Pentrobin the soil is poorer; here however are found +holdings that have remained in the same family for generations. The land +is mainly arable; but little cheese being now made. + +About one mile and a half from Hawarden on the road to Northop, lie +ensconced in a wood the scant remains of the old Castle of Ewloe--the +scene of a battle between the English and Welsh in 1157, in which the +former were defeated by David and Conan, sons of Owen Gwynedd. + +The district is rich in beds of coal and clay. The former have been +worked from an early period when the coal was mostly sent to Chester; but +the difficulties of carriage before the turnpike road was made, and +especially of draining the mines, which before steam-engines came into +use was attempted to be done by means of levels, {37} were a serious +impediment to that development which under more favourable conditions has +since taken place. + +Formerly the only means of getting the minerals of the district away, was +a horse tramway from Buckley to Queensferry. In 1862 however was opened +the Wrexham and Connah's Quay Railway,--Mrs. Gladstone cutting the first +sod, and an address from the Corporation of Wrexham being at the same +time presented to Mr. Gladstone, then Chancellor of the Exchequer. This +line is now carried through Hawarden, and, when connected with Birkenhead +and Liverpool by the Mersey Tunnel, now happily completed, is destined in +all probability to become one of importance beyond the limits of the +immediate district. + +Clay has been extensively worked in Buckley, where the Messrs. Hancock's +famous fire-brick is made. Mention may also be made of the white bricks +made by the Aston Hall Coal and Brick Company, which are in great favour +with builders on account of their powers of resisting the weather and of +retaining their colour. A clay, resembling _terra cotta_ when burnt, has +also been found on Saltney. + +At Sandycroft, on the river bank, are the Ironworks belonging to Messrs. +Taylor, where mining and other machinery is made. + +The present course of the River below Chester, is called the New Cut, and +was completed under Act of Parliament, in 1737, by the River Dee Company, +who have lately handed over their interest in the River to a newly formed +Conservancy Board. The River, which before wandered over a large tract, +was thus confined to the present channel, and a large reclamation of land +effected. In compensation for the loss of rights of pasturage, 200 +pounds is paid yearly by the Company to Trustees for the benefit of the +Freeholders of the Manor of Hawarden; 50 pounds is also paid yearly for +the repair of the south bank. This was followed by the inclosure of +Saltney Marsh, in 1778. + +Possessing as it does a greater depth of water over the bar than the +Mersey, and provided with ample railway communication with the great +industrial centres, it is probable that the Dee may ere long become a far +more important river as a vehicle of commerce than heretofore. Of still +more importance to Hawarden is the establishment of direct communication +with Liverpool already referred to, in place of the present circuitous +route by Chester and Runcorn. By the new Swing Railway Bridge across the +Dee, direct access will be given to Birkenhead and Liverpool by the +Mersey Tunnel across the Wirral; such communication will not only +stimulate and develop to the utmost the natural resources of the +district, but will offer residential facilities, beneficial, as it may be +hoped, alike to town and country. + +{Map of Hawarden: p38.jpg} + +PHILLIPSON AND GOLDER, PRINTERS, CHESTER. + + + + +Footnotes: + + +{8} He was buried at Shuldham, in Norfolk. + +{9a} Pennant. Sir W. Stanley had rendered the most valuable service to +the King at the battle of Bosworth; yet, upon suspicion of his favouring +the cause of Perkin Warbeck, the King had him seized at his castle at +Holt and beheaded. + +{9b} This may have been the house known as "The Manor," now occupied by +Mr. Bakewell Bower of the Manor Farm. + +{10} See Campbell's Lives of the Chief Justices. + +{11a} The Letters Patent recite also the service rendered to the King by +the furnishing a sum of money sufficient for the maintenance of thirty +soldiers for three years in the Plantation of Ulster. + +{11b} Henley Park was left to John Glynne, (son of the Chief Justice by +his second wife,) through whom it passed by marriage to Francis Tilney, +Esq. + +{11c} We find Hugh Ravenscroft mentioned as Steward of the Lordships of +Hawarden and Mold, about the year 1440. Thomas Ravenscroft, father of +Honora, afterwards Lady Glynne, by his wife Honora Sneyd of Keel Hall, +Staffordshire, was a Member of Parliament, and died in 1698, aged 28. +There is a monument to him in Hawarden Church. + +{12} Pennant learnt that the timber had been valued in 1665 at 5000 +pounds and subsequently sold. + +{13} Between 1830 and 1840 the Norman Archaeological Society visited the +sites of all the Castles of the Barons who had gone over to England with +William the Conqueror, and in none of them found any masonry older than +the second half of the eleventh century. + +{14} _e.g._ Mr. G. T. Clark and Mr. J. H. Parker, from whom this account +is chiefly derived. + +{16} The uncommon strength and tenacity of the ancient mortar used in +the Castle was especially conspicuous in the Keep prior to the recent +restorations. In one place an enormous mass of masonry remained +suspended without other support than its own coherence and adhesion. For +security this has now been underpinned. + +{23a} In 1563 there were five bells. In 1740 they were sold and six new +ones purchased from Abel Rudhall of Gloucester, at a cost of 628 pounds. +They bear the following inscriptions, with the initials of the maker and +the date 1745 in each case: + +No. 1. Peace and good neighbourhood. + +,, 2. Prosperity to all our benefactors. + +,, 3. Prosperity to this Parish. + +,, 4. I to the Church the living call, +And to the grave do summon all. + +,, 5. Geo Hope, Churchwarden. +Thos Fox, Sidesman. + +,, 6. Abel Rudhall of Gloucester cast us all. + +{23b} There is a curious carved oaken slab, 4ft high, surmounted by a +cross, which forms part of the present Reading Desk. On the cross is an +eagle, with a vine branch and grapes above, and with a scroll in his beak +inscribed, In Domino confido. The pillar was probably in commemoration +of a maiden daughter of Randolph Pool, Rector in 1537. + +{24a} Its peculiarity consisted in its accommodating two officiating +clergymen simultaneously. The Clerk's Desk was, as usual, below. + +{24b} This Chancel, called the Whitley Chancel, was restored and +decorated in 1885, by the munificence of H. Hurlbutt, Esq., of Dee +Cottage, from the designs of Mr. Frampton, and under the superintendence +of Mr. Douglas, Architect, Chester. The same gentleman erected the Lych +Gate at the North entrance to the Churchyard. + +{27} From Tinkersdale Quarry. + +{28a} Dante is one of the four authors to whom Mr. Gladstone attributes +the greatest _formative_ influence on his own mind; the other three being +Aristotle, Bishop Butler, and S. Augustine. + +{28b} Sir S. Glynne was one of the highest authorities on English +Ecclesiology. He visited and described in a series of Note Books, which +are carefully preserved, nearly the whole of the old parish churches in +the country. His Notes of the Churches of Kent are published by Murray. +He died in 1874, at the age of 66. There is a good portrait of him by +Roden. + +{29a} Eldest son of Mr. and Mrs. W. H. Gladstone. + +{29b} Sir John Glynne has recorded that only one tree was standing about +the place in 1730. This is supposed to be the large spreading oak +adjoining the Flower Garden. + +{32a} This Church contains some noteworthy frescoes and other mural +decorations, the work of the Rev. John Troughton, sometime curate in +charge. + +{32b} A wag is said to have scratched on the stump of a tree at Hawarden +the following couplet: + +"No matter whether oak or birch-- +They all go like the Irish Church." + +{33a} +_Homer_. _Iliad_ xxili. 315 + + "By skill far more than strength the woodman fells + The sturdy oak." + _Ld. Derby's Translation_ + +{34} 1889-1890. + +{35a} Buckley Church, towards which a grant of 4000 pounds was made by +the Commissioners for Church building, was designed by Mr. John Gates of +Halifax, and holds 740 persons. The first stone was laid by the youthful +hands of Sir S. R. Glynne and his Brother Henry, afterwards Rector, and +the Consecration was performed nine months afterwards, by the Bishop of +Chester, Dr. Gardiner, Prebendary of Lichfield, preaching the Sermon. The +Schools and Parsonage had been previously erected by the exertions of the +Hon. and Rev. George Neville Grenville (afterwards Dean of Windsor), at a +cost of about 2000 pounds. + +{35b} Much improved by the recent addition of a Chancel, the gift of W. +Johnson, Esq., of Broughton Hall. + +{35c} Built by Sir S. R. Glynne: Vicarage and Schools by Lady Glynne. + +{36} In the Journals of the House of Commons occurs the following entry, +dated 23rd February, 1646:--"An Ordinance from the Lords for Mr. Bold, a +Minister, to be instituted into the Church of Hawarden, in Flintshire." + +{37} On the 1st October, 1770, assembled a grand Procession, with +coloured cockades, to start the opening of a Level, designed to be driven +one mile and three quarters in length and eighty yards deep "in order" +(so the notice ran) "to lay dry a body of coal for future ages." The +wages were to be, for boys and lads employed about the horses, and +windlasses--26 in number, 6d. a day, smiths, carpenters and labourers, +above ground generally--42 in number, 1/4 a day, +underground laboures 42, Cutters 68 in number, 1/6 a day, underground +stewards 10 in number, 1/6 a day. + +At this date the price of coal at the pit's mouth was not less than 16/- +a ton, or fully double what it is at present. The course of this notable +work which effectually drained the Hollin seam of coal may still be +traced for a long distance by its succession of ventilating shafts, +finally issuing in the ravine called Kearsley, and discharging its waters +into the brook. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HAWARDEN VISITORS' HAND-BOOK*** + + +******* This file should be named 20012.txt or 20012.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/2/0/0/1/20012 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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