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+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, Oriental Encounters, by Marmaduke Pickthall</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Oriental Encounters</p>
+<p> Palestine and Syria, 1894-6</p>
+<p>Author: Marmaduke Pickthall</p>
+<p>Release Date: September 25, 2006 [eBook #19378]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORIENTAL ENCOUNTERS***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4 class="pg">E-text prepared by Jeannie Howse<br />
+ and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+ (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net/">http://www.pgdp.net/</a>)<br />
+ from page images generously made available by<br />
+ Internet Archive/Million Book Project<br />
+ (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/millionbooks">http://www.archive.org/details/millionbooks</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="10" style="background-color: #ccccff;">
+ <tr>
+ <td valign="top">
+ Note:
+ </td>
+ <td>
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive/Million Book Project. See
+ <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/OrientalEncounters">
+ http://www.archive.org/details/OrientalEncounters</a>
+ </td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="tr">
+<p class="cen" style="font-weight: bold;">Transcriber's Note:</p>
+<br />
+<p class="noin">Inconsistent hyphenation in the original document has been
+preserved. Inconsistent spellings of Arabic terms have been preserved.</p>
+<p class="noin">A number of obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this text.
+For a complete list, please see the <a href="#TN">end of this document</a>.</p>
+</div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+
+<h1>ORIENTAL ENCOUNTERS</h1>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<h1>ORIENTAL ENCOUNTERS</h1>
+
+<br />
+
+<h2>PALESTINE AND SYRIA<br />
+(1894-5-6)</h2>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h5 style="margin-bottom: -1px;">BY</h5>
+<h2 style="margin-top: -1px;">MARMADUKE PICKTHALL</h2>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<h5>LONDON: 48 PALL MALL<br />
+W. COLLINS SONS &amp; CO. LTD.<br />
+GLASGOW MELBOURNE AUCKLAND</h5>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h5>Copyright 1918</h5>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="toc" id="toc"></a><hr />
+<br />
+
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<br />
+
+<div class="centered">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" width="70%" summary="Table of Contents">
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr" width="10%"><span style="font-size: 90%;">CHAP.</span></td>
+ <td class="tdl" width="70%">&nbsp;</td>
+ <td class="tdr" width="20%"><span style="font-size: 90%;">PAGE</span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">&nbsp;</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">1</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">I.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">RASH&Icirc;D THE FAIR</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">11</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">II.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">A MOUNTAIN GARRISON</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">20</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">III.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">THE RHINOCEROS WHIP</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">28</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">IV.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">THE COURTEOUS JUDGE</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">36</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">V.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">NAW&Acirc;DIR</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">45</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">VI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">NAW&Acirc;DIR (<i>continued</i>)</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">54</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">VII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">THE SACK WHICH CLANKED</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">68</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">VIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">POLICE WORK</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">77</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">IX.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">MY COUNTRYMAN</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">87</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">X.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">THE PARTING OF THE WAYS</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">96</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">THE KNIGHT ERRANT</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">106</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">THE FANATIC</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">117</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">RASH&Icirc;D'S REVENGE</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">125</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XIV.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">THE HANGING DOG</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">134</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XV.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">TIGERS</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">142</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XVI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">PRIDE AND A FALL</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">151</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XVII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">TRAGEDY</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">161</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XVIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">BASTIRMA</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">171<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span></td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XIX.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">THE ARTIST-DRAGOMAN</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">181</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XX.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">LOVE AND THE PATRIARCH</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">188</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">THE UNPOPULAR LANDOWNER</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">198</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">THE CA&Iuml;MMAC&Acirc;M</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">209</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">CONCERNING BRIBES</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">218</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXIV.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">THE BATTLEFIELD</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">226</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXV.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">MURDERERS</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">237</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXVI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">THE TREES ON THE LAND</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">245</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXVII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">BUYING A HOUSE</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">255</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXVIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">A DISAPPOINTMENT</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">264</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXIX.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">CONCERNING CRIME AND PUNISHMENT</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">273</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXX.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">THE UNWALLED VINEYARD</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">282</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXXI.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">THE ATHEIST</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">291</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXXII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">THE SELLING OF OUR GUN</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">302</td>
+ </tr>
+ <tr>
+ <td class="tdr">XXXIII.</td>
+ <td class="tdl"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">MY BENEFACTOR</a></td>
+ <td class="tdr">311</td>
+ </tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>INTRODUCTION<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+<br />
+
+<p>Early in the year 1894 I was a candidate for one of two vacancies in
+the Consular Service for Turkey, Persia, and the Levant, but failed to
+gain the necessary place in the competitive examination. I was in
+despair. All my hopes for months had been turned towards sunny
+countries and old civilisations, away from the drab monotone of London
+fog, which seemed a nightmare when the prospect of escape eluded me. I
+was eighteen years old, and, having failed in one or two adventures, I
+thought myself an all-round failure, and was much depressed. I dreamed
+of Eastern sunshine, palm trees, camels, desert sand, as of a Paradise
+which I had lost by my shortcomings. What was my rapture when my
+mother one fine day suggested that it might be good for me to travel
+in the East, because my longing for it seemed to indicate a natural
+instinct, with which she herself, possessing Eastern memories, was in
+full sympathy!</p>
+
+<p>I fancy there was some idea at the time that if I learnt the languages
+and studied life upon the spot <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>I might eventually find some
+backstairs way into the service of the Foreign Office; but that idea,
+though cherished by my elders as some excuse for the expenses of my
+expedition, had never, from the first, appealed to me; and from the
+moment when I got to Egypt, my first destination, it lost whatever
+lustre it had had at home. For then the European ceased to interest
+me, appearing somehow inappropriate and false in those surroundings.
+At first I tried to overcome this feeling or perception which, while I
+lived with English people, seemed unlawful. All my education until
+then had tended to impose on me the cult of the thing done habitually
+upon a certain plane of our society. To seek to mix on an equality
+with Orientals, of whatever breeding, was one of those things which
+were never done, nor even contemplated, by the kind of person who had
+always been my model.</p>
+
+<p>My sneaking wish to know the natives of the country intimately, like
+other unconventional desires I had at times experienced, might have
+remained a sneaking wish until this day, but for an accident which
+freed me for a time from English supervision. My people had provided
+me with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>introductions to several influential English residents in
+Syria, among others to a family of good position in Jerusalem; and it
+was understood that, on arrival in that country, I should go directly
+to that family for information and advice. But, as it chanced, on
+board the ship which took me to Port Said from Naples I met a man who
+knew those people intimately&mdash;had been, indeed, for years an inmate of
+their house&mdash;and he assumed the office of my mentor. I stayed in
+Cairo, merely because he did, for some weeks, and went with him on the
+same boat to Jaffa. He, for some unknown reason&mdash;I suspect
+insanity&mdash;did not want me in Jerusalem just then; and, when we landed,
+spun me a strange yarn of how the people I had thought to visit were
+exceedingly eccentric and uncertain in their moods; and how it would
+be best for me to stop in Jaffa until he sent me word that I was sure
+of welcome. His story was entirely false, I found out later, a libel
+on a very hospitable house. But I believed it at the time, as I did
+all his statements, having no other means of information on the
+subject.</p>
+
+<p>So I remained at Jaffa, in a little <i>gasthaus</i> in the German colony,
+which had the charms of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>cleanliness and cheapness, and there I might
+have stayed till now had I awaited the tidings promised by my
+counsellor. There for the first two weeks I found life very dull. Then
+Mr. Hanauer, the English chaplain, and a famous antiquarian, took pity
+on my solitary state, walked me about, and taught me words of Arabic.
+He was a native of Jerusalem, and loved the country. My sneaking wish
+to fraternise with Orientals, when I avowed it after hesitations,
+appeared good to him. And then I made acquaintance with a clever
+dragoman and one of the most famous jokers in all Syria, who happened
+to be lodging at my little hostelry, with nothing in the world to do
+but stare about him. He helped me to throw off the European and plunge
+into the native way of living. With him I rode about the plain of
+Sharon, sojourning among the fell&acirc;h&icirc;n, and sitting in the coffee-shops
+of Ramleh, Lydda, Gaza, meeting all sorts of people, and acquiring the
+vernacular without an effort, in the manner of amusement. From dawn to
+sunset we were in the saddle. We went on pilgrimage to Nebi Rub&icirc;n, the
+mosque upon the edge of marshes by the sea, half-way to Gaza; we rode
+up <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>northward to the foot of Carmel; explored the gorges of the
+mountains of Jud&aelig;a; frequented Turkish baths; ate native meals and
+slept in native houses&mdash;following the customs of the people of the
+land in all respects. And I was amazed at the immense relief I found
+in such a life. In all my previous years I had not seen happy people.
+These were happy. Poor they might be, but they had no dream of wealth;
+the very thought of competition was unknown to them, and rivalry was
+still a matter of the horse and spear. Wages and rent were troubles
+they had never heard of. Class distinctions, as we understand them,
+were not. Everybody talked to everybody. With inequality they had a
+true fraternity. People complained that they were badly governed,
+which merely meant that they were left to their devices save on great
+occasions. A Government which touches every individual and interferes
+with him to some extent in daily life, though much esteemed by
+Europeans, seems intolerable to the Oriental. I had a vision of the
+tortured peoples of the earth impelled by their own misery to desolate
+the happy peoples, a vision which grew clearer in the after years.
+But <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>in that easy-going Eastern life there is a power of resistance,
+as everybody knows who tries to change it, which may yet defeat the
+hosts of joyless drudgery.</p>
+
+<p>My Syrian friend&mdash;the Suleym&acirc;n of the following sketches&mdash;introduced
+me to the only Europeans who espoused that life&mdash;a French Alsatian
+family, the Baldenspergers, renowned as pioneers of scientific
+bee-keeping in Palestine, who hospitably took a share in my
+initiation. They had innumerable hives in different parts of the
+country&mdash;I have seen them near the Jaffa gardens and among the
+mountains south of Hebron&mdash;which they transported in due season, on
+the backs of camels, seeking a new growth of flowers. For a long while
+the Government ignored their industry, until the rumour grew that it
+was very profitable. Then a high tax was imposed. The Baldenspergers
+would not pay it. They said the Government might take the hives if it
+desired to do so. Soldiers were sent to carry out the seizure. But the
+bee-keepers had taken out the bottom of each hive, and when the
+soldiers lifted them, out swarmed the angry bees. The soldiers fled;
+and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>after that experience the Government agreed to compromise. I
+remember well a long day's ride with Emile and Samuel Baldensperger,
+round by Askelon and Ekron, and the luncheon which a village headman
+had prepared for us, consisting of a whole sheep, roast and stuffed
+with nuts and vegetables; and a day with Henri Baldensperger in the
+Hebron region. The friendships of those days were made for life.
+Hanauer, the Baldenspergers, Suleym&acirc;n, and other natives of the
+country&mdash;those of them who are alive&mdash;remain my friends to-day.</p>
+
+<p>In short, I ran completely wild for months, in a manner unbecoming to
+an Englishman; and when at length, upon a pressing invitation, I
+turned up in Jerusalem and used my introductions, it was in
+semi-native garb and with a love for Arabs which, I was made to
+understand, was hardly decent. My native friends were objects of
+suspicion. I was told that they were undesirable, and, when I stood up
+for them, was soon put down by the retort that I was very young. I
+could not obviously claim as much experience as my mature advisers,
+whose frequent warnings to me to distrust <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>the people of the country
+thus acquired the force of moral precepts, which it is the secret joy
+of youth to disobey.</p>
+
+<p>That is the reason why the respectable English residents in Syria
+figure in these pages as censorious and hostile, with but few
+exceptions. They were hostile to my point of view, which was not then
+avowed, but not to me. Indeed, so many of them showed me
+kindness&mdash;particularly in my times of illness&mdash;that I cannot think of
+them without a glow of friendliness. But the attitude of most of them
+was never mine, and the fact that at the time I still admired that
+attitude as the correct one, and thought myself at intervals a sad
+backslider, made it seem forbidding. In my Oriental life they really
+were, as here depicted, a disapproving shadow in the background. With
+one&mdash;referred to often in these tales&mdash;I was in full agreement. We
+lived together for some months in a small mountain village, and our
+friendship then established has remained unbroken. But he, though not
+alone, was an exception.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the general verdict on my Arab friends, I led what might be
+called a double life during the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>months of my first sojourn in
+Jerusalem; until Suleym&acirc;n, the tourist season being ended, came with
+promise of adventure, when I flung discretion to the winds. We hired
+two horses and a muleteer, and rode away into the north together. A
+fortnight later, at the foot of the Ladder of Tyre, Suleym&acirc;n was
+forced to leave me, being summoned to his village. I still rode on
+towards the north, alone with one hired muleteer, a simple soul. A
+notion of my subsequent adventures may, perhaps, be gathered from the
+following pages, in which I have embodied fictionally some impressions
+still remaining clear after the lapse of more than twenty years. A
+record of small things, no doubt; yet it seems possible that something
+human may be learnt from such a comic sketch-book of experience which
+would never be derived from more imposing works.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span><br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER I<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>RASH&Icirc;D THE FAIR</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The brown plain, swimming in a haze of heat, stretched far away into
+the distance, where a chain of mountains trenched upon the cloudless
+sky. Six months of drought had withered all the herbage. Only
+thistles, blue and yellow, and some thorny bushes had survived; but
+after the torrential winter rains the whole expanse would blossom like
+the rose. I traversed the plain afterwards in spring, when cornfields
+waved for miles around its three mud villages, wild flowers in mad
+profusion covered its waste places, and scarlet tulips flamed amid its
+wheat.</p>
+
+<p>Now all was desert. After riding for four days in such a landscape, it
+was sweet to think upon the journey's end, the city of perennial
+waters, shady gardens, and the song of birds. I was picturing the
+scene of our arrival&mdash;the shade and the repose, the long, cool drinks,
+the friendly hum <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>of the bazaars&mdash;and wondering what letters I should
+find awaiting me, all to the tune of 'Onward, Christian soldiers'&mdash;for
+the clip-clap of a horse's hoofs invariably beats out in my brain some
+tune, the most incongruous, against my will&mdash;when a sudden outcry
+roused me. It came from my companion, a hired muleteer, and sounded
+angry. The fellow had been riding on ahead. I now saw that he had
+overtaken other travellers&mdash;two men astride of one donkey&mdash;and had
+entered into conversation with them. One of the two, the hindmost, was
+a Turkish soldier. Except the little group they made together, and a
+vulture, a mere speck above them in the blue, no other living creature
+was in sight. Something had happened, for the soldier seemed amused,
+while my poor man was making gestures of despairing protest. He
+repeated the loud cry which had disturbed my reverie, then turned his
+mule and hurried back to meet me.</p>
+
+<p>'My knife!' he bellowed 'My knife!&mdash;that grand steel blade which was
+my honour!&mdash;so finely tempered and inlaid!&mdash;an heirloom in the family!
+That miscreant, may Allah cut his life!&mdash;I mean the soldier&mdash;stole it.
+He asked to look at it a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>minute, seeming to admire. I gave it, like
+the innocent I am. He stuck it in his belt, and asked to see the
+passport which permitted me to carry weapons. Who ever heard of such a
+thing in this wild region? He will not give it back, though I
+entreated. I am your Honour's servant, speak for me and make him give
+it back! It is an heirloom!' That grey-haired man was crying like a
+baby.</p>
+
+<p>Now, I was very young, and his implicit trust in my authority
+enthralled me. I valued his dependence on my manhood more than gold
+and precious stones. Summoning all the courage I possessed, I clapped
+spurs to my horse and galloped after the marauder.</p>
+
+<p>'Give back that knife!' I roared. 'O soldier! it is thou to whom I
+speak.'</p>
+
+<p>The soldier turned a studiously guileless face&mdash;a handsome face, with
+fair moustache and a week's beard. He had a roguish eye.</p>
+
+<p>'What knife? I do not understand,' he said indulgently.</p>
+
+<p>'The knife thou stolest from the muleteer here present.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>'Oh, that!' replied the soldier, with a deprecating laugh: 'That is a
+thing unworthy of your Honour's notice. The rogue in question is a
+well-known malefactor. He and I are old acquaintance.'</p>
+
+<p>'By the beard of the Prophet, by the August Coran, I never saw his
+devil's face until this minute!' bawled the muleteer, who had come up
+behind me.</p>
+
+<p>'Give back the knife,' I ordered for the second time.</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, never!' was the cool reply.</p>
+
+<p>'Give it back, I say!'</p>
+
+<p>'No, it cannot be&mdash;not even to oblige your Honour, for whose pleasure,
+Allah knows, I would do almost anything,' murmured the soldier, with a
+charming smile. 'Demand it not. Be pleased to understand that if it
+were your Honour's knife I would return it instantly. But that man, as
+I tell thee, is a wretch. It grieves me to behold a person of
+consideration in such an unbecoming temper upon his account&mdash;a dog, no
+more.'</p>
+
+<p>'If he is a dog, he is my dog for the present; so give back the
+knife!'</p>
+
+<p>'Alas, beloved, that is quite impossible.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>With a wave of the hand dismissing the whole subject the soldier
+turned away. He plucked a cigarette out of his girdle and prepared to
+light it. His companion on the donkey had not turned his head nor
+shown the slightest interest in the discussion. This had lasted long
+enough. I knew that in another minute I should have to laugh. If
+anything remained for me to do it must be done immediately. Whipping
+my revolver from the holster, I held it close against the rascal's
+head, yelling: 'Give back the knife this minute, or I kill thee!'</p>
+
+<p>The man went limp. The knife came back as quick as lightning. I gave
+it to the muleteer, who blubbered praise to Allah and made off with
+it. Equally relieved, I was about to follow when the utterly forlorn
+appearance of the soldier moved me to open the revolver, showing that
+it was not loaded. Then my adversary was transfigured. His back
+straightened, his mouth closed, his eyes regained their old
+intelligence. He stared at me a moment, half incredulous, and then he
+laughed. Ah, how that soldier laughed! The owner of the donkey turned
+and shared his glee. They literally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>hugged each other, roaring with
+delight, while the donkey underneath them both jogged dutifully on.</p>
+
+<p>Before a caravanserai in a small valley green with fruit-trees, beside
+a slender stream whose banks were fringed with oleander, I was sitting
+waiting for some luncheon when the donkey and its riders came again in
+sight. The soldier tumbled off on spying me and ran into the inn like
+one possessed. A minute later he brought out the food which I had
+ordered and set the table for me in the shade of trees.</p>
+
+<p>'I would not let another serve thee,' he informed me, 'for the love of
+that vile joke that thou didst put upon me. It was not loaded. After
+all my fright!... It is a nice revolver. Let me look at it.'</p>
+
+<p>'Aye, look thy fill, thou shalt not touch it,' was my answer; at which
+he laughed anew, pronouncing me the merriest of Adam's race.</p>
+
+<p>'But tell me, what wouldst thou have done had I refused? It was not
+loaded. What wouldst thou have done?'</p>
+
+<p>His hand was resting at that moment on a stool. I rapped his knuckles
+gently with the butt of the revolver to let him know its weight.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>'Wallahi!' he cried out in admiration. 'I believe thou wouldst have
+smashed my head with it. All for the sake of a poor man of no account,
+whom thou employest for a week, and after that wilt see no more.
+Efendim, take me as thy servant always!' Of a sudden he spoke very
+earnestly. 'Pay the money to release me from the army. It is a
+largeish sum&mdash;five Turkish pounds. And Allah knows I will repay it to
+thee by my service. For the love of righteousness accept me, for my
+soul is thine.'</p>
+
+<p>I ridiculed the notion. He persisted. When the muleteer and I set
+forth again, he rode beside us, mounted on another donkey this
+time&mdash;'borrowed,' as he put it&mdash;which showed he was a person of
+resource. 'By Allah, I can shoe a horse and cook a fowl; I can mend
+garments with a thread and shoot a bird upon the wing,' he told me. 'I
+would take care of the stable and the house. I would do everything
+your Honour wanted. My nickname is Rash&icirc;d the Fair; my garrison is
+Karameyn, just two days' journey from the city. Come in a day or two
+and buy me out. No matter for the wages. Only try me!'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>At the khan, a pretty rough one, where we spent the night, he waited
+on me deftly and enforced respect, making me really wish for such a
+servant. On the morrow, after an hour's riding, our ways parted.</p>
+
+<p>'In sh'Allah, I shall see thee before many days,' he murmured. 'My
+nickname is Rash&icirc;d the Fair, forget not. I shall tell our captain thou
+art coming with the money.'</p>
+
+<p>I said that I might think about it possibly.</p>
+
+<p>'Come,' he entreated. 'Thou wouldst never shame a man who puts his
+trust in thee. I say that I shall tell our captain thou art coming.
+Ah, shame me not before the Commandant and all my comrades! Thou
+thinkest me a thief, a lawbreaker, because I took that fellow's
+knife?' he asked, with an indulgent smile. 'Let me tell thee, O my
+lord, that I was in my right and duty as a soldier of the Sultan in
+this province. It is that muleteer who, truly speaking, breaks the law
+by carrying the knife without a permit. And thou, hast thou a passport
+for that fine revolver? At the place where we had luncheon yesterday
+were other soldiers. By merely calling on them to support me I could
+have had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>his knife and thy revolver with ease and honesty in strict
+accordance with the law. Why did I not do so? Because I love thee! Say
+thou wilt come to Karameyn and buy me out.'</p>
+
+<p>I watched him jogging on his donkey towards a gulley of the hills
+along which lay the bridle-path to Karameyn. On all the evidence he
+was a rogue, and yet my intimate conviction was that he was honest.
+All the Europeans in the land would lift up hands of horror and
+exclaim: 'Beware!' on hearing such a story. Yet, as I rode across the
+parched brown land towards the city of green trees and rushing waters,
+I knew that I should go to Karameyn.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER II<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>A MOUNTAIN GARRISON</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The long day's ride was uneventful, but not so the night. I spent it
+in a village of the mountains at a very curious hostelry, kept by a
+fat native Christian, named Elias, who laid claim, upon the signboard,
+to furnish food and lodging 'alafranga'&mdash;that is, in the modern
+European manner. There was one large guest-room, and an adjoining
+bedroom of the same dimensions, for some thirty travellers. I had to
+find a stable for my horse elsewhere. A dining-table was provided, and
+we sat on chairs around it; but the food was no wise European, and the
+cooking was degraded Greek. A knife, fork, and spoon were laid for
+every guest but several cast these on the floor and used their
+fingers. In the long bedroom were a dozen beds on bedsteads. By
+offering a trifle extra I secured one to myself. In others there were
+two, three, even four together. An elderly Armenian gentleman <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>who had
+a wife with him, stood guard with pistols over her all night. He was
+so foolish as to threaten loudly anyone who dared approach her. After
+he had done so several times a man arose from the bed next to mine and
+strolling to him seized him by the throat.</p>
+
+<p>'O man,' he chided. 'Art thou mad or what, thus to arouse our passions
+by thy talk of women? Be silent, or we honest men here present will
+wring thy neck and take thy woman from thee. Dost thou understand?' He
+shook that jealous husband as a terrier would shake a rat. 'Be silent,
+hearest thou? Men wish to sleep.'</p>
+
+<p>'Said I not well, O brother?' said the monitor to me, as he got back
+to bed.</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, well,' was my reply. The jealous one was silent after that.
+But there were other noises. Some men still lingered in the guest-room
+playing cards. The host, devoted to things European, had a
+musical-box&mdash;it was happily before the day of gramophones&mdash;which the
+card-players kept going all night long. I had a touch of fever. There
+were insects. Sleep was hopeless. I rose while it was yet night, went
+out without paying, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>since the host was nowhere to be seen, and, in
+some danger from the fierce attacks of pariah dogs, found out the
+vault in which my horse was stabled. Ten minutes later I was clear of
+the village, riding along a mountain side but dimly visible beneath
+the stars. The path descended to a deep ravine, and rose again, up,
+up, interminably. At length, upon the summit of a ridge, I felt the
+dawn. The mountain tops were whitened like the crests of waves, while
+all the clefts and hollows remained full of night. Behind me, in the
+east, there was a long white streak making the mountain outlines bleak
+and keen. The stars looked strange; a fresh breeze fanned my cheek and
+rustled in the grass and shrubs. Before me, on an isolated bluff,
+appeared my destination, a large village, square-built like a
+fortress. Its buildings presently took on a wild-rose blush, which
+deepened to the red of fire&mdash;a splendid sight against a dark blue sky,
+still full of stars. A window flashed up there. The sun had risen.</p>
+
+<p>Some English people, when informed of my intention to buy a man out of
+the Turkish Army had pronounced it madness. I did not know the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>people
+of the land as they did. I should be pillaged, brought to destitution,
+perhaps murdered. They, who had lived in the country twenty, thirty
+years, were better qualified to judge than I was. For peace and quiet
+I pretended acquiescence, and my purpose thus acquired a taste of
+stealth. It was with the feelings of a kind of truant that I had set
+out at length without a word to anyone, and with the same adventurous
+feelings that I now drew near to Karameyn. Two soldiers, basking in
+the sunshine on a dust-heap, sprang up at my approach. One was the man
+I sought, the rogue Rash&icirc;d. They led me to their captain's house&mdash;a
+modest dwelling, consisting of a single room, with hardly any
+furniture. A score of soldiers followed after us.</p>
+
+<p>The Captain&mdash;Hasan Agha&mdash;an old man, with face scarred and heavy white
+moustache, was in full uniform, and, as I entered, was engaged in
+putting on a pair of cotton gloves. He was one of the old 'ala&iuml;li,'
+Turkish officers&mdash;those whose whole knowledge of their business was
+derived from service in a regiment or 'ala&iuml;,' instead of from
+instruction at a military school; and his manner towards the men <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>had
+nothing of the martinet. He addressed them as 'my children,' with
+affection; and they, though quite respectful, conversed freely in his
+presence. Hasan Agha paid me many compliments, and repeatedly inquired
+after my health. He would not hear about my business till I had had
+breakfast. Luncheon had been arranged for me, he said, but that could
+not be ready for some hours. Would I be so kind as to excuse a
+makeshift? Even as he spoke, a soldier entered with a tray on which
+were slabs of Arab bread, a pitcher of sour milk, and heaps of grapes.
+Another soldier began pounding coffee, while yet another blew upon the
+charcoal in a brazier. I refused to eat unless my host ate with me,
+which he did only after much polite resistance. After the meal, we sat
+and talked, the soldiers joining in the conversation. They told me of
+old wars and deeds of valour. Hasan Agha was, it seemed, a famous
+fighter; and the men did all they could to make him tell me of his
+battles. They brought an old man in out of the town to see me because
+he had fought in the Crimean war, and knew the English. Before it grew
+too hot, they took me out to see the barracks and a ramshackle <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>old
+fieldpiece which they seemed to idolise. Then followed luncheon with
+its long array of Arab dishes, of which the soldiers had their share
+eventually. Rash&icirc;d assured me afterwards that all the food on this
+occasion had been 'borrowed.' That was in Abdul Hamid's golden days.
+After luncheon, there was coffee with more compliments; and then at
+last we got to business.</p>
+
+<p>A public writer was brought in. He wrote out a receipt for me, and
+also the discharge Rash&icirc;d required. Hasan Agha stamped both documents
+with an official seal, and handed them to me, who gave him in exchange
+the money.</p>
+
+<p>'Bismillah!' he exclaimed. 'I call all here to witness that Rash&icirc;d,
+the son of Ali, called the Fair, is free henceforth to go what way he
+chooses.'</p>
+
+<p>To me he said: 'Rash&icirc;d is a good lad, and you will find him useful.
+The chief fault I have found in him is this: that, when obeying
+orders, he is apt to think, and so invent a method of his own, not
+always good. Also, he is too susceptible to female charms, a failing
+which has placed him in some strange positions.'</p>
+
+<p>The last remark evoked much laughter, relating, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>evidently to some
+standing joke unknown to me. Rash&icirc;d looked rather sheepish. Hasan Agha
+turned to him, and said:</p>
+
+<p>'My son, praise Allah for thy great good fortune in finding favour in
+the sight of one so noble and benevolent as our beloved guest, who is
+henceforth thy master. Remember, he is not as I am&mdash;one who has been
+what thou art, and so knows the tricks. Serve him freely with thy mind
+and soul and conscience, not waiting for commands as in the Army. Come
+hither, O my son, grasp hands with me. I say, may God be with thee now
+and always! Forget not all the good instruction of thy soldier days.
+Be sure that we shall pray for thy good master and for thee.'</p>
+
+<p>The old man's eyes were wet, so were Rash&icirc;d's, so were the eyes of all
+the soldiers squatting round.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, dismissed, went off to change his uniform for an old suit of
+mine which I had brought for him, while Hasan Agha, talking of him as
+a father might, explained to me his character and little failings.</p>
+
+<p>At last I took my leave. Rash&icirc;d was waiting in my cast-off clothes, a
+new fez of civilian shape upon <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>his head. He held my stirrup, and then
+jumped on to a raw-boned beast which had been 'borrowed' for him by
+his friends, so he informed me. It might be worth my while to buy it
+for him, he suggested later&mdash;the price was only eight pounds Turk, the
+merest trifle. The whole garrison escorted us to the last houses,
+where they stood a long while, waving their farewells. Two hours
+later, on the mountain-ridge, beyond the wady, we turned to look our
+last on Karameyn. It stood amid the flames of sunset like a castle of
+the clouds.</p>
+
+<p>We returned, then, to the 'alafranga' hostelry; but Rash&icirc;d, having
+heard the story of my sleepless night, would not allow me to put up
+there. I paid my debt to the proprietor, and then he found for me an
+empty house to which he brought a mattress and a coverlet, a lot of
+cushions, a brazier, and the things required for making coffee, also a
+tray of supper&mdash;all of them borrowed from the neighbouring houses. I
+might be pillaged, brought to destitution, and eventually murdered by
+him, as my friends had warned me. At least, the operation promised to
+be comfortable.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER III<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE RHINOCEROS WHIP</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>'Where is the whip?' Rash&icirc;d cried, suddenly, turning upon me in the
+gateway of the khan where we had just arrived.</p>
+
+<p>'Merciful Allah! It is not with me. I must have left it in the
+carriage.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d threw down the saddlebags, our customary luggage, which he had
+been carrying, and started running for his life. The carriage had got
+half-way down the narrow street half-roofed with awnings. At Rash&icirc;d's
+fierce shout of 'Wait, O my uncle! We have left our whip!' the driver
+turned and glanced behind him, but, instead of stopping, lashed his
+horses to a gallop. Rash&icirc;d ran even faster than before. The chase,
+receding rapidly, soon vanished from my sight. Twilight was coming on.
+Above the low, flat roofs to westward, the crescent moon hung in the
+green of sunset behind the minarets of the great mosque. I then <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>took
+up the saddle-bags and delicately picked my way through couchant
+camels, tethered mules and horses in the courtyard to the khan itself,
+which was a kind of cloister. I was making my arrangements with the
+landlord, when Rash&icirc;d returned, the picture of despair. He flung up
+both his hands, announcing failure, and then sank down upon the ground
+and moaned. The host, a burly man, inquired what ailed him. I told
+him, when he uttered just reflections upon cabmen and the vanity of
+worldly wealth. Rash&icirc;d, as I could see, was 'zi'l&acirc;n'&mdash;a prey to that
+strange mixture of mad rage and sorrow and despair, which is a real
+disease for children of the Arabs. An English servant would not thus
+have cared about the loss of a small item of his master's property,
+not by his fault but through that master's oversight. But my
+possessions were Rash&icirc;d's delight, his claim to honour. He boasted of
+them to all comers. In particular did he revere my gun, my Service
+revolver, and this whip&mdash;a tough thong of rhinoceros hide, rather
+nicely mounted with silver, which had been presented to me by an aged
+Arab in return for some imagined favour. I had found it useful
+against <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>pariah dogs when these rushed out in packs to bite one's
+horse's legs, but had never viewed it as a badge of honour till Rash&icirc;d
+came to me. To him it was the best of our possessions, marking us as
+of rank above the common. He thrust it on me even when I went out
+walking; and he it was who, when we started from our mountain home at
+noon that day, had laid it reverently down upon the seat beside me
+before he climbed upon the box beside the driver. And now the whip was
+lost through my neglectfulness. Rash&icirc;d's dejection made me feel a
+worm.</p>
+
+<p>'Allah! Allah!' he made moan, 'What can I do? The driver was a chance
+encounter. I do not know his dwelling, which may God destroy!'</p>
+
+<p>The host remarked in comfortable tones that flesh is grass, all
+treasure perishable, and that it behoves a man to fix desire on higher
+things. Whereat Rash&icirc;d sprang up, as one past patience, and departed,
+darting through the cattle in the yard with almost supernatural
+agility. 'Let him eat his rage alone!' the host advised me, with a
+shrug.</p>
+
+<p>Having ordered supper for the third hour of the night, I, too, went
+out to stretch my limbs, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>were stiff and bruised from four
+hours' jolting in a springless carriage, always on the point of
+overturning. We should have done better to have come on horseback in
+the usual way; but Rash&icirc;d, having chanced upon the carriage, a great
+rarity, had decided on that way of going as more fashionable,
+forgetful of the fact that there was not a road.</p>
+
+<p>The stars were out. In the few shops which still kept open lanterns
+hung, throwing streaks of yellow light on the uneven causeway, a gleam
+into the eyes of wayfarers and prowling dogs. Many of the people in
+the streets, too, carried lanterns whose swing made objects in their
+circle seem to leap and fall. I came at length into an open place
+where there was concourse&mdash;a kind of square which might be called the
+centre of the city.</p>
+
+<p>The crowd there, as I noticed with surprise, was stationary, with all
+its faces turned in one direction. I heard a man's voice weeping and
+declaiming wildly.</p>
+
+<p>'What is it?' I inquired, among the outskirts.</p>
+
+<p>'A great misfortune!' someone answered. 'A poor servant has lost a
+whip worth fifty Turkish pounds, his master's property. It was stolen
+from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>him by a miscreant&mdash;a wicked cabman. His lord will kill him if
+he fails to find it.'</p>
+
+<p>Seized with interest, I shouldered my way forward. There was Rash&icirc;d
+against the wall of a large mosque, beating himself against that wall
+with a most fearful outcry. A group of high-fezzed soldiers, the
+policemen of the city, hung round him in compassion, questioning.
+Happily, I wore a fez, and so was inconspicuous.</p>
+
+<p>'Fifty Turkish pounds!' he yelled. 'A hundred would not buy its
+brother! My master, the tremendous Count of all the English&mdash;their
+chief prince, by Allah!&mdash;loves it as his soul. He will pluck out and
+devour my heart and liver. O High Protector! O Almighty Lord!'</p>
+
+<p>'What like was this said cabman?' asked a sergeant of the watch.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, with sobs and many pious interjections, described the cabman
+rather neatly as 'a one-eyed man, full-bearded, of a form as if
+inflated in the lower half. His name, he told me, was Hab&icirc;b; but Allah
+knows!'</p>
+
+<p>'The man is known!' exclaimed the sergeant, eagerly. 'His dwelling is
+close by. Come, O thou <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>poor, ill-used one. We will take the whip from
+him.'</p>
+
+<p>At that Rash&icirc;d's grief ceased as if by magic. He took the sergeant's
+hand and fondled it, as they went off together. I followed with the
+crowd as far as to the cabman's door, a filthy entry in a narrow lane,
+where, wishing to avoid discovery, I broke away and walked back
+quickly to the khan.</p>
+
+<p>I had been there in my private alcove some few minutes, when Rash&icirc;d
+arrived with a triumphant air, holding on high the famous whip. The
+sergeant came across the court with him. A score of soldiers waited in
+the gateway as I could see by the light of the great lantern hanging
+from the arch.</p>
+
+<p>'Praise be to Allah, I have found it!' cried Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>'Praise be to Allah, we have been enabled to do a little service for
+your Highness,' cried the sergeant. Therewith he pounced upon my hand
+and kissed it. I made them both sit down and called for coffee.
+Between the two of them, I heard the story. The sergeant praised
+Rash&icirc;d's intelligence in going out and crying in a public place <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>until
+the city and its whole police force had a share in his distress.
+Rash&icirc;d, on his side, said that all that would have been in vain but
+for the sergeant's knowledge of the cabman's house. The sergeant, with
+a chuckle, owned that that same knowledge would have been of no effect
+had not Rash&icirc;d once more displayed his keen intelligence. They had
+poured into the house&mdash;a single room, illumined only by a saucer lamp
+upon the ground&mdash;and searched it thoroughly, the cabman all the while
+protesting his great innocence, and swearing he had never in this
+world beheld a whip like that described. The soldiers, finding no
+whip, were beginning to believe his word when Rash&icirc;d, who had remained
+aloof, observing that the cabman's wife stood very still beneath her
+veils, assailed her with a mighty push, which sent her staggering
+across the room. The whip was then discovered. It had been hidden
+underneath her petticoats. They had given the delinquent a good
+beating then and there. Would that be punishment enough in my opinion?
+asked the sergeant.</p>
+
+<p>We decided that the beating was enough. I gave the sergeant a small
+present when he left. Rash&icirc;d <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>went with him, after carefully
+concealing the now famous whip. I suppose they went off to some tavern
+to discuss the wonderful adventure more at length; for I supped alone,
+and had been some time stretched upon my mattress on the floor before
+Rash&icirc;d came in and spread his bed beside me.</p>
+
+<p>'Art thou awake, O my dear lord?' he whispered. 'By Allah, thou didst
+wrong to give that sergeant any money. I had made thy name so great
+that but to look on thee was fee sufficient for a poor, lean dog like
+him.'</p>
+
+<p>He then was silent for so long a while that I imagined he had gone to
+sleep. But, suddenly, he whispered once again:</p>
+
+<p>'O my dear lord, forgive me the disturbance, but hast thou our
+revolver safe?'</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, yes! Here, ready to my hand.'</p>
+
+<p>'Good. But it would be better for the future that I should bear our
+whip and our revolver. I have made thy name so great that thou
+shouldst carry nothing.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER IV<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE COURTEOUS JUDGE</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>We were giving a dinner-party on that day to half a dozen Turkish
+officers, and, when he brought me in my cup of tea at seven-thirty
+a.m., Rash&icirc;d informed me that our cook had been arrested. The said
+cook was a decent Muslim, but hot-tempered, and something of a blood
+in private life. At six a.m., as he stood basking in the sunlight in
+our doorway, his eyes had fallen on some Christian youths upon their
+way to college, in European clothes, with new kid gloves and
+silver-headed canes. Maddened with a sense of outrage by that horrid
+sight, he had attacked the said youths furiously with a wooden ladle,
+putting them to flight, and chasing them all down the long acacia
+avenue, through two suburbs into the heart of the city, where their
+miserable cries for help brought the police upon him. Rash&icirc;d, pursuing
+in vain attempts to calm the holy warrior, had seen him <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>taken into
+custody still flourishing the ladle; but could tell me nothing of his
+after fate, having at that point deemed it prudent to retire, lest he,
+too, might be put in prison by mistake.</p>
+
+<p>It was sad. As soon as I was up and dressed, I wrote to Hamdi Bey, the
+chief of our intended visitors, informing him of the mishap which
+would prevent our giving him and his comrades a dinner at all worthy
+of their merit. By the time that I had finished dressing, Rash&icirc;d had
+found a messenger to whom the note was given with an order to make
+haste. He must have run the whole way there and back, for, after
+little more than half an hour, he stood before me, breathless and with
+streaming brow, his bare legs dusty to the knee. Rash&icirc;d had then gone
+out to do some marketing. The runner handed me a note. It said:</p>
+
+<p>'Why mention such a trifling detail? We shall, of course, be charmed
+with anything you set before us. It is for friendship, not for food,
+we come!'</p>
+
+<p>There was a postscript:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'Why not go and see the judge?'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n was in the room. He was an old <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>acquaintance, a man of decent
+birth, but poor, by trade a dragoman, who had acquired a reputation
+for unusual wisdom. When he had nothing else to do, he came to me
+unfailingly, wherever I might chance to be established or encamped. He
+was sitting cross-legged in a corner, smoking his nargh&icirc;leh,
+capriciously illumined by thin slants of light, alive with motes, from
+the Venetian blinds. He seized upon the postscript, crying:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'It is good advice. Why not, indeed? Let us approach the judge.'</p>
+
+<p>Therewith he coiled the tube of his nargh&icirc;leh carefully around the
+bowl thereof, and, rising with the same deliberation, threw upon his
+shoulders a white dust-cloak, then looked at me, and questioned: 'Are
+you ready?'</p>
+
+<p>'But I do not know the judge.'</p>
+
+<p>'No more do I. But that, my dear, is a disease which can be remedied.'</p>
+
+<p>Without much trouble we found out the judge's house. A servant told us
+that his Honour had already started for the court. We took a carriage
+and pursued his Honour. At the court we made <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>inquiry of the crowd of
+witnesses&mdash;false witnesses for hire&mdash;who thronged the entrance. The
+judge, we heard, had not yet taken his seat. We should be sure to find
+his Honour in the coffee-shop across the road. One of the false
+witnesses conducted us to the said coffee-shop and pointed out our
+man. Together with his clerk and certain advocates, one of whom read
+aloud the morning news, the judge sat underneath a vine arbour in
+pleasant shade. He smiled. His hands were clasped upon a fair round
+belly.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n, his dust-cloak billowing, strolled forward coolly, and
+presented me as 'one of the chief people of the Franks.' The company
+arose and made us welcome, placing stools for our convenience.</p>
+
+<p>'His Highness comes to thee for justice, O most righteous judge. He
+has been wronged,' observed Suleym&acirc;n, dispassionately.</p>
+
+<p>The judge looked much concerned. 'What is the case?' he asked.</p>
+
+<p>'Our cook is snatched from us,' was the reply, 'and to-night we have
+invited friends to dinner.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>'Is he a good cook?' asked the judge, with feeling.</p>
+
+<p>'If your Excellency will restore him to us, and then join us at the
+meal&mdash;&mdash;'</p>
+
+<p>'How can I be of service in this matter?'</p>
+
+<p>I motioned to Suleym&acirc;n to tell the story, which he did so well that
+all the company were soon in fits of laughter.</p>
+
+<p>The judge looked through the cause list till he found the case,
+putting a mark against it on the paper.</p>
+
+<p>'How can we dine to-night without a cook?' I sighed, despairingly.</p>
+
+<p>'Fear nothing,' said the judge. 'He shall be with you in an hour.
+Come, O my friends, we must to business! It grows late.'</p>
+
+<p>The judge took leave of me with much politeness.</p>
+
+<p>'Now,' said Suleym&acirc;n, when they were gone, 'let us go into the court
+and watch the course of justice.'</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the narrow street to an imposing portal. Suleym&acirc;n whispered
+to a soldier there on guard, who smiled and bade us enter, with a
+gracious gesture.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>The hall inside was crowded. Only after much exertion could we see the
+dais. There sat the judge, and there stood our lamented cook, the
+picture of dejection. A soldier at his side displayed the wooden
+ladle. The Christian dandies whom he had assaulted were giving their
+account of the adventure volubly, until his Honour, with a heavy
+frown, bade them be silent. Then they cowered.</p>
+
+<p>'Be careful what you say,' the judge enjoined. 'You have not hesitated
+to impute the anger of this cook to religious fanaticism. The
+Nazarenes are much too ready to bring such a charge against the
+Muslims, forgetful that there may be other causes of annoyance. Nay,
+many of the charges brought have proved upon investigation to be
+altogether groundless. You Nazarenes are often insolent in your
+demeanour. Confiding in the favour of the foreign consuls, foreign
+missionaries, you occasionally taunt and irritate, even revile, the
+Muslims. Now, even supposing your account of this affair to be
+correct&mdash;which I much doubt, for, on the one hand, I behold a wooden
+ladle of no weight; while, on the other, there are two fine
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>walking-sticks with silver heads'&mdash;one of the Christian youths let
+fall his stick in trepidation&mdash;'and you are two, while this poor cook
+is one. Even supposing what you say is true, are you certain that
+nothing in your appearance, conversation, or behaviour gave him cause
+for anger? I incline to conjecture that you must have flouted him, or
+uttered, it may be, some insult to his creed.'</p>
+
+<p>'He beat us for no reason, and most grievously,' moaned one of the
+assailed. Such language from a Muslim judge in a court filled with
+Muslims made the two Christians tremble in their shoes.</p>
+
+<p>'We did not even see him till he started beating us. By Allah, my poor
+head is sore, my back is broken with that awful beating. He was like a
+madman!' The speaker and his fellow-plaintiff wept aloud.</p>
+
+<p>'Didst thou beat these youths, as he describes?' inquired the judge,
+turning towards the cook with like severity.</p>
+
+<p>'No, O Excellency!' came the bitter cry. 'I am an ill-used man, much
+slandered. I never set eyes upon those men until this minute.' He also
+began weeping bitterly.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>'Both parties tell me lies!' exclaimed the judge, with anger. 'For
+thou, O cook, didst beat these youths. The fact is known, for thou
+wast taken in the act of beating them. And you, O Nazarenes, are not
+much injured, for everyone beholds you in most perfect health, with
+clothes unspoilt. The more shame to you, for it is evident that you
+bring the charge against this Muslim from religious hatred.'</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, no, O Excellency. We wish that man no harm. We did but
+state what happened.'</p>
+
+<p>'You are a pack of rogues together,' roared the judge. 'Let each side
+pay one whole mej&icirc;di<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> to the court; let the parties now, this
+minute, here before me, swear peace and lifelong friendship for the
+future, and never let me hear of them again!'</p>
+
+<p>The Christian youths embraced the cook, the cook embraced the
+Christian youths repeatedly, all weeping in a transport of delight at
+their escape from punishment. I paid the money for our man, who then
+went home with us; Suleym&acirc;n, upon the way, delivering a lecture of
+such high morality, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>such heavenly language, that the poor, simple
+fellow wept anew, and called on Allah for forgiveness.</p>
+
+<p>'Repentance is thy duty,' said Suleym&acirc;n approvingly. 'But towards this
+world also thou canst make amends. Put forth thy utmost skill in
+cookery this evening, for the judge is coming.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<br />
+
+<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> About four shillings.</p></div>
+
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER V<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>NAW&Acirc;DIR<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>We had arrived in a village of the mountains late one afternoon, and
+were sauntering about the place, when some rude children shouted: 'Hi,
+O my uncle, you have come in two!'</p>
+
+<p>It was the common joke at sight of European trousers, which were rare
+in those days. But Suleym&acirc;n was much offended upon my account. He
+turned about and read those children a tremendous lecture, rebuking
+them severely for thus presuming to insult a stranger and a guest. His
+condemnation was supported on such lofty principles as no man who
+possessed a particle of religion or good feeling could withstand; and
+his eloquence was so commanding yet persuasive that, when at length he
+moved away, not children only but many also of the grown-up people
+followed him.</p>
+
+<p>The village was high up beneath the summit of a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>ridge, and from a
+group of rocks within a stone's throw of it could be seen the sea, a
+great blue wall extending north and south. We perched among those
+rocks to watch the sunset. The village people settled within earshot,
+some below and some above us. Presently an old man said:</p>
+
+<p>'Thou speakest well, O sage! It is a sin for them to cry such things
+behind a guest of quality. Their misbehaviour calls for strong
+correction. But I truly think that no child who has heard your
+Honour's sayings will ever be so impudent again.'</p>
+
+<p>'Am&acirc;n!'<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> cried one of the delinquents. 'Allah knows that our
+intention was not very evil.'</p>
+
+<p>I hastened to declare that the offence was nothing. But Suleym&acirc;n would
+not allow me to decry it.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour is as yet too young,' he said severely, 'to understand
+the mystic value of men's acts and words. A word may be well meant and
+innocent, and yet the cause of much disaster, possessing in itself
+some special virtue of malignity. You all know how the j&acirc;nn<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> attend
+on careless words; how if I call a goat, a dog, or cat by its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>generic
+name without pointing to the very animal intended, a jinni will as
+like as not attach himself to me, since many of the j&acirc;nn are called by
+names of animals. You all know also that to praise the beauty of a
+child, without the offer of that child to Allah as a sacrifice, is
+fatal; because there is unseen a jealous listener who hates and would
+deform the progeny of Eve. Such facts as those are known to every
+ignoramus, and their cause is plain. But there exists another and more
+subtle danger in the careless use of words, particularly with regard
+to personal remarks, like that of these same children when they cried
+to our good master: 'Thou hast come in two,' directing the attention
+to a living body. I have a rare thing in my memory which perhaps may
+lead you to perceive my meaning darkly.</p>
+
+<p>'A certain husbandman (fell&acirc;h) was troubled with a foolish wife.
+Having to go out one day, he gave her full instructions what to do
+about the place, and particularly bade her fix her mind upon their
+cow, because he was afraid the cow might stray, as she had done
+before, and cause ill-feeling with the neighbours. He never thought
+that such <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>a charge to such a person, tending to concentrate the
+woman's mind upon a certain object, was disastrous. The man meant
+well; the woman, too, meant well. She gave her whole mind to obey his
+parting words. Having completed every task within the house, she sat
+down under an olive tree which grew before the door, and fixed her
+whole intelligence in all its force upon the black-and-white cow, the
+only living thing in sight, which was browsing in the space allowed by
+a short tether. So great did the responsibility appear to her that she
+grew anxious, and by dint of earnest gazing at the cow came to believe
+that there was something wrong with it. In truth the poor beast had
+exhausted all the grass within its reach, and it had not entered her
+ideas to move the picket.</p>
+
+<p>'At length a neighbour passed that way. She begged him, of his
+well-known kindness, to inspect the cow and tell her what the matter
+really was. This neighbour was a wag, and knew the woman's species; he
+also knew the cow as an annoyance, for ever dragging out its peg and
+straying into planted fields. After long and serious examination he
+declared: "The tail is hurting her and ought to be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>removed. See how
+she swishes it from side to side. If the tail is not cut off
+immediately, the cow will die one day."</p>
+
+<p>'"Merciful Allah!" cried the woman. "Please remove it for me. I am all
+alone, and helpless."</p>
+
+<p>'The man lifted up an axe which he was carrying and cut off the cow's
+tail near the rump. He gave it to the woman and she thanked him
+heartily. He went his way, while she resumed her watch upon the cow.
+And still she fancied that its health was not as usual.</p>
+
+<p>'Another neighbour came along. She told him of her fears, and how the
+Sheykh Mukarram, of his well-known kindness, had befriended her by
+cutting off the damaged tail.</p>
+
+<p>'"Of course," cried the newcomer, "that accounts for it! The animal is
+now ill-balanced. It is always a mistake to take from one end without
+removing something also from the other. If thou wouldst see that cow
+in health again, the horns must go."</p>
+
+<p>'"Oh, help me; I am all alone! Perform the operation for me," said the
+woman.</p>
+
+<p>'Her friend sawed off the horns and gave them <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>to her. She exhausted
+thanks. But still, when he was gone, the cow appeared no better. She
+grew desperate.</p>
+
+<p>'By then the news of her anxiety about the cow had spread through all
+the village, and every able body came to help her or look on. They cut
+the udder and the ears, and then the legs, and gave them to her, and
+she thanked them all with tears of gratitude. At last there was no cow
+at all to worry over. Seeing the diminished carcase lying motionless,
+the woman smiled and murmured: "Praise to Allah, she is cured at last;
+she is at rest! Now I am free to go into the house and get things
+ready for my lord's return."</p>
+
+<p>'Her lord returned at dusk. She told him: "I have been obedient. I
+watched the cow and tended her for hours. She was extremely ill, but
+all the neighbours helped to doctor her, performing many operations,
+and we were able to relieve her of all pain, the praise to Allah! Here
+are the various parts which they removed. They gave them to me, very
+kindly, since the cow is ours."</p>
+
+<p>'Without a word the man went out to view the remnant of the cow. When
+he returned he seized <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>the woman by the shoulders, and, gazing
+straight into her eyes, said grimly: "Allah keep thee! I am going to
+walk this world until I find one filthier than thou art. And if I fail
+to find one filthier than thou art, I shall go on walking&mdash;I have
+sworn it&mdash;to the end."'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n broke off there suddenly, to the surprise of all.</p>
+
+<p>'I fail to see how that rare thing applies to my case,' I observed, as
+soon as I felt sure that he had finished speaking.</p>
+
+<p>'It does not apply to your case, but it does to others,' he replied on
+brief reflection. 'It is dangerous to put ideas in people's heads or
+rouse self-consciousness, for who can tell what demons lurk in
+people's brains.... But wait and I will find a rare thing suited to
+the present instance.'</p>
+
+<p>'Say, O Sea of Wisdom, did he find one filthier than she was?'</p>
+
+<p>'Of course he did.'</p>
+
+<p>'Relate the sequel, I beseech thee.'</p>
+
+<p>But Suleym&acirc;n was searching in his memory for some event more clearly
+illustrating the grave risks <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>of chance suggestion. At length he gave
+a sigh of satisfaction, and then spoke as follows:</p>
+
+<p>'There was once a Turkish pasha of the greatest, a benevolent old man,
+whom I have often seen. He had a long white beard, of which he was
+extremely proud, until one day a man, who was a wag, came up to him
+and said:</p>
+
+<p>'"Excellency, we have been wondering: When you go to bed, do you put
+your beard inside the coverings or out?"</p>
+
+<p>'The Pasha thought a moment, but he could not tell, for it had never
+come into his head to notice such a matter. He promised to inform his
+questioner upon the morrow. But when he went to bed that night he
+tried the beard beneath the bedclothes and above without success.
+Neither way could he get comfort, nor could he, for the life of him,
+remember how the beard was wont to go. He got no sleep on that night
+or the next night either, for thinking on the problem thus presented
+to his mind. On the third day, in a rage, he called a barber and had
+the beard cut off. Accustomed as he was to such a mass of hair upon
+his neck, for lack of it he caught a cold and died.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>'That story fits the case before us to a nicety,' said Suleym&acirc;n in
+conclusion, with an air of triumph.</p>
+
+<p>'What is the moral of it, deign to tell us, master!' the cry arose
+from all sides in the growing twilight.</p>
+
+<p>'I suppose,' I hazarded, 'that, having had attention called to the
+peculiar clothing of my legs, I shall eventually have them amputated
+or wear Turkish trousers?'</p>
+
+<p>'I say not what will happen; God alone knows that. But the mere chance
+that such catastrophes, as I have shown, may happen is enough to make
+wise people shun that kind of speech.'</p>
+
+<p>I cannot to this day distinguish how much of his long harangue was
+jest and how much earnest. But the fell&acirc;h&icirc;n devoured it as pure
+wisdom.</p>
+
+<br />
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<br />
+
+<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Rare things.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Equivalent to 'Pax.'</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Genii.</p></div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER VI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>NAW&Acirc;DIR <i>(continued)</i></h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>'What happened to the man who went to seek one filthier than she was?
+How could he ever find one filthier?' inquired Rash&icirc;d, reverting to
+Suleym&acirc;n's unfinished story of the foolish woman and her husband and
+the hapless cow, when we lay down to sleep that evening in the village
+guest-room. I also asked to hear the rest of that instructive tale.
+Suleym&acirc;n, sufficiently besought, raised himself upon an elbow and
+resumed the narrative. Rash&icirc;d and I lay quiet in our wrappings.</p>
+
+<p>'We had reached that point, my masters, where the injured husband,
+having seen the remnant of the cow, said to his wife: "Now, I am going
+to walk this world until I find one filthier than thou art; and if I
+fail to find one filthier than thou art I shall go on walking till I
+die." Well, he walked and he walked&mdash;for months, some people say, and
+others years&mdash;until he reached a village in Mount <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>Lebanon&mdash;a village
+of the Maronites renowned for foolishness. It was the reputation of
+their imbecility which made him go there.'</p>
+
+<p>'What was his name?' inquired Rash&icirc;d, who liked to have things clear.</p>
+
+<p>'His name?' said Suleym&acirc;n reflectively, 'was S&acirc;lih.'</p>
+
+<p>'He was a Muslim?'</p>
+
+<p>'Aye, a Muslim, I suppose&mdash;though, Allah knows, he may perhaps have
+been an Isma&icirc;li or a Druze. Any more questions? Then I will proceed.</p>
+
+<p>'He came into this village of the Maronites, and, being thirsty,
+looked in at a doorway. He saw the village priest and all his family
+engaged in stuffing a fat sheep with mulberry leaves. The sheep was
+tethered half-way up the steps which led on to the housetop. The
+priest and his wife, together with their eldest girl, sat on the
+ground below, amid a heap of mulberry boughs; and all the other
+children sat, one on every step, passing up the leaves, when ready, to
+the second daughter, whose business was to force the sheep to go on
+eating. This they would do until the sheep, too full to stand, fell
+over on its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>side, when they would slaughter it for their supply of
+fat throughout the coming year.</p>
+
+<p>'So busy were they in this occupation that they did not see the
+stranger in the doorway until he shouted: "Peace upon this house," and
+asked them for a drink of water kindly. Even then the priest did not
+disturb himself, but, saying "Itfaddal!" pointed to a pitcher standing
+by the wall. The guest looked into it and found it dry.</p>
+
+<p>'"No water here," he said.</p>
+
+<p>'"Oh," sighed the priest, "to-day we are so thirsty with this work
+that we have emptied it, and so busy that the children have forgotten
+to refill it. Rise, O Nes&icirc;beh, take the pitcher on thy head, and
+hasten to the spring and bring back water for our guest."</p>
+
+<p>'The girl Nes&icirc;beh, who was fourteen years of age, rose up obediently,
+shaking off the mulberry leaves and caterpillars from her clothing.
+Taking up the pitcher, she went out through the village to the spring,
+which gushed out of the rock beneath a spreading pear tree.</p>
+
+<p>'There were so many people getting water at the moment that she could
+not push her way among <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>them, so sat down to wait her turn, choosing a
+shady spot. She was a thoughtful girl, and, as she sat there waiting,
+she was saying in her soul:</p>
+
+<p>'"O soul, I am a big girl now. A year or two and mother will unite me
+to a proper husband. The next year I shall have a little son. Again a
+year or two, he will be big enough to run about; and his father will
+make for him a pair of small red shoes, and he will come down to this
+pleasant spring, as children do, to splash the water. Being a bold
+lad, he will climb that tree."</p>
+
+<p>'And then, as she beheld one great bough overhanging like a
+stretched-out arm, and realised how dangerous it was for climbing
+children, she thought:</p>
+
+<p>'"He will fall down and break his neck."</p>
+
+<p>'At once she burst out weeping inconsolably, making so great a din
+that all the people who had come for water flocked around her, asking:
+"O Nes&icirc;beh, what has hurt thee?" And between her sobs, she told them:</p>
+
+<p>'"I'm a big girl, now."</p>
+
+<p>'"That is so, O beloved!"</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>'"A year or two, and mother will provide me with a husband."</p>
+
+<p>'"It is likely."</p>
+
+<p>'"Another year, and I shall have a little son."</p>
+
+<p>'"If God wills!" sighed the multitude, with pious fervour.</p>
+
+<p>'"Again a year or two, he will be big enough to run about, and his
+father will make for him a pair of small red shoes. And he will come
+down to the spring with other children, and will climb the tree.
+And&mdash;oh!&mdash;you see that big bough overhanging. There he will slip and
+fall and break his neck! Ah, woe!"</p>
+
+<p>'At that the people cried: "O cruel fate!" and many of them rent their
+clothes. They all sank down upon the ground around Nes&icirc;beh, rocking
+themselves to and fro and wailing:</p>
+
+<p>'"Ah, my little neighbour. My poor, dear little neighbour! Ah, would
+that thou had lived to bury me, my little neighbour!"<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p>'Meanwhile the stranger waiting for the water grew impatient, and he
+once more ventured to interrupt the work of sheep-stuffing with a
+remark <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>that the young girl was long returning with her pitcher. The
+priest said: "That is true," and sent his second daughter to expedite
+the first. This girl went running to the spring, and found the
+population of the village sitting weeping on the ground around her
+sister. She asked the matter. They replied: "A great calamity! Thy
+sister&mdash;poor distracted mother!&mdash;will inform thee of its nature." She
+ran up to Nes&icirc;beh, who moaned out: "I am a big girl now. A year or
+two, our mother will provide me with a husband. The next year I shall
+have a little son. Again a year or two he will be old enough to run
+about. His father will make for him a pair of small red shoes. He
+comes down to the spring to play in childish wise. He climbs that
+tree, and from that overhanging branch he falls and breaks his neck."</p>
+
+<p>'At this sad news the second girl forgot her errand. She threw her
+skirt over her head and started shrieking: "Alas, my little nephew! My
+poor, dear little nephew! Would God that thou had lived to bury me, my
+little nephew!" And she too sat down upon the ground to hug her sorrow
+with the rest.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>'The priest said: "That one too is long in coming; I will send another
+child; but thou must take her place upon the steps, O stranger, or
+else the work of stuffing will be much delayed."</p>
+
+<p>'The stranger did as he was asked, while child after child was sent,
+till he alone was left to do the work of carrying the fresh leaves up
+from the ground and stuffing them into the sheep. Still none returned.</p>
+
+<p>'The priest's wife went herself, remarking that her husband and the
+stranger were able by themselves to carry on the work. They did so a
+long while, yet no one came.</p>
+
+<p>'At last the priest rose, saying: "I myself will go and beat them for
+this long delay. Do thou, O stranger, feed the sheep meanwhile. Cease
+not to carry up the leaves and stuff him with them, lest all the good
+work done be lost through negligence."</p>
+
+<p>'In anger the priest strode out through the village to the spring. But
+all his wrath was changed into amazement when he saw the crowd of
+people sitting on the ground, convulsed with grief, around the members
+of his family.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>'He went up to his wife and asked the matter.</p>
+
+<p>'She moaned: "I cannot speak of it. Ask poor Nes&icirc;beh!"</p>
+
+<p>'He then turned to his eldest daughter, who, half-choked by sobs,
+explained:</p>
+
+<p>'"I am a big girl now."</p>
+
+<p>'"That is so, O my daughter."</p>
+
+<p>'"A year or two, and you and mother will provide me with a husband."</p>
+
+<p>'"That is possible."</p>
+
+<p>'"Another year, and I shall have a little son!"</p>
+
+<p>'"In sh' Allah!" said her father piously.</p>
+
+<p>'"Again a year or two, and my son runs about. His father makes for him
+a pair of small red shoes. He came down to the spring to play with
+other children, and from that overhanging bough&mdash;how shall I tell
+it?&mdash;he fell and broke his darling little neck!" Nes&icirc;beh hid her face
+again and wailed aloud.</p>
+
+<p>'The priest, cut to the heart by the appalling news, tore his cassock
+up from foot to waist, and threw the ends over his face, vociferating:</p>
+
+<p>'"Woe, my little grandson! My darling little grandson! Oh, would that
+thou had lived to bury <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>me, my little grandson!" And he too sank upon
+the ground, immersed in grief.</p>
+
+<p>'At last the stranger wearied of the work of stripping off the
+mulberry leaves and carrying them up the staircase to the tethered
+sheep. He found his thirst increased by such exertions.'</p>
+
+<p>'Did he in truth do that, with no one looking?' said Rash&icirc;d. 'He must
+have been as big a fool as all the others.'</p>
+
+<p>'He was, but in a different way,' said Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'He walked down to the spring, and saw the congregation seated
+underneath the pear tree, shrieking like sinners at the Judgment Day.
+Among them sat the priest, with features hidden in his torn black
+petticoat. He ventured to approach the man and put a question. The
+priest unveiled his face a moment and was going to speak, but
+recollection of his sorrow overcame him. Hiding his face again, he
+wailed:</p>
+
+<p>'"Alas, my little grandson! My pretty little grandson! Ah, would that
+thou hadst lived to bury me, my little grandson!"</p>
+
+<p>'A woman sitting near plucked at the stranger's sleeve and said:</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>'"You see that girl. She will be soon full-grown. A year or two, and
+she will certainly be married. Another year, and she will have a
+little son. Her little son grows big enough to run about. His father
+made for him a pair of small red shoes. He came down to the spring to
+play with other children. You see that pear tree? On a day like
+this&mdash;a pleasant afternoon&mdash;he clambered up it, and from that bough,
+which overhangs the fountain, he fell and broke his little neck upon
+those stones. Alas, our little neighbour! Oh, would that thou had
+lived to bury us, our little neighbour!" And everyone began to rock
+and wail anew.</p>
+
+<p>'The stranger stood and looked upon them for a moment, then he
+shouted: "Tf&ucirc; 'aleykum!"<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> and spat upon the ground. No other word
+did he vouchsafe to them, but walked away; and he continued walking
+till he reached his native home. There, sitting in his ancient seat,
+he told his wife:</p>
+
+<p>'"Take comfort, O beloved! I have found one filthier."'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n declared the story finished.</p>
+
+<p>'Is there a moral to it?' asked Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>'The moral is self-evident,' replied the story-teller. 'It is this:
+however bad the woman whom one happens to possess may be, be certain
+it is always possible to find a worse.'</p>
+
+<p>'It is also possible to find a better,' I suggested.</p>
+
+<p>'Be not so sure of that!' said Suleym&acirc;n. 'There are three several
+kinds of women in the world, who all make claim to be descended from
+our father Noah. But the truth is this: Our father Noah had one
+daughter only, and three men desired her; so not to disappoint the
+other two, he turned his donkey and his dog into two girls, whom he
+presented to them, and that accounts for the three kinds of women now
+to be observed. The true descendants of our father Noah are very
+rare.'</p>
+
+<p>'How may one know them from the others?' I inquired.</p>
+
+<p>'By one thing only. They will keep your secret. The second sort of
+woman will reveal your secret to a friend; the third will make of it a
+tale against you. And this they do instinctively, as dogs will bark or
+asses bray, without malevolence or any kind of forethought.</p>
+
+<p>'That same priest of the Maronites of whom I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>told just now, in the
+first days of his married life was plagued by his companion to reveal
+to her the secrets people told him in confession. He refused,
+declaring that she would divulge them.</p>
+
+<p>'"Nay, I can keep a secret if I swear to do so. Only try me!" she
+replied.</p>
+
+<p>'"Well, we shall see," the priest made answer, in a teasing manner.</p>
+
+<p>'One day, as he reclined upon the sofa in their house, that priest
+began to moan and writhe as if in agony. His wife, in great alarm,
+inquired what ailed him.</p>
+
+<p>'"It is a secret," he replied, "which I dare not confide to thee, for
+with it is bound up my earthly welfare and my soul's salvation."</p>
+
+<p>'"I swear by Allah I will hide it. Tell me!" she implored.</p>
+
+<p>'"Well," he replied, as if in torment, "I will risk my life and trust
+thee. Know thou art in the presence of the greatest miracle. I, though
+not a woman, am far gone with child&mdash;a thing which never happened on
+the earth till now&mdash;and in this hour it is decreed that I produce my
+first-born."</p>
+
+<p>'Then, with a terrific cry, he thrust his hand <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>beneath his petticoat,
+and showed his wife a little bird which he had kept there hidden. He
+let it fly away out through the window. Having watched it disappear,
+he said devoutly:</p>
+
+<p>'"Praise be to Allah! That is over! Thou hast seen my child. This is a
+sacred and an awful mystery. Preserve the secret, or we all are dead!"</p>
+
+<p>'"I swear I will preserve it," she replied, with fervour.</p>
+
+<p>'But the miracle which she had witnessed burned her spirit. She knew
+that she must speak of it or die; and so she called upon a friend
+whose prudence she could trust, and binding her by vows, told her the
+story.</p>
+
+<p>'This woman also had a trusted friend, to whom she told the story,
+under vows of secrecy, and so on, with the consequence that that same
+evening the priest received a deputation of the village elders, who
+requested, in the name of the community, to be allowed to kiss the
+feet of his mysterious son&mdash;that little, rainbow-coloured bird, which
+had a horn upon its head and played the flute.</p>
+
+<p>'The priest said nothing to his wife. He did not beat her. He gave her
+but one look. And yet <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>from that day forward, she never plagued him
+any more, but was submissive.'</p>
+
+<p>'The priest was wise on that occasion, yet so foolish in the other
+story!' I objected.</p>
+
+<p>'The way of the majority of men!' said Suleym&acirc;n. 'But women are more
+uniformly wise or foolish. A happy night!' said Suleym&acirc;n conclusively,
+settling himself to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>The usual night-light of the Syrian peasants&mdash;a wick afloat upon a
+saucerful of oil and water&mdash;burned upon the ground between us, making
+great shadows dance upon the walls and vaulting. The last I heard
+before I fell asleep was Rash&icirc;d's voice, exclaiming:</p>
+
+<p>'He is a famous liar, is our wise man yonder; yet he speaks the
+truth!'</p>
+
+<br />
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<br />
+
+<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> 'Y&acirc; takbar j&acirc;rak, y&acirc; j&acirc;ri!'&mdash;a very common cry of grief
+in Syria.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Something like 'Pooh-pooh to you!' but more insulting.</p></div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER VII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE SACK WHICH CLANKED</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The sand which had been a rich ochre turned to creamy white, the sea
+from blue became a livid green, the grass upon the sand-hills
+blackened and bowed down beneath a sudden gust of wind. The change was
+instantaneous, as it seemed to me. I had observed that clouds were
+gathering upon the mountain peaks inland, but I had been riding in hot
+sunlight, only a little less intense than it had been at noon, when
+suddenly the chill and shadow struck me. Then I saw the sky completely
+overcast with a huge purple cloud which bellied down upon the land and
+sea. The waves which had been lisping all day long gave forth an
+ominous dull roar. White horses reared and plunged. A wind sang
+through the grass and thistles of the dunes, driving the sand into my
+face.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, who had been riding far behind, in conversation with our
+muleteer, came tearing up, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>I could hear the shouts of the muk&acirc;ri
+urging his two beasts to hurry.</p>
+
+<p>'There is a village on the headland over there&mdash;a village of
+Circassian settlers,' cried my servant, breathless. 'It has a bad
+name, and I had not thought to spend the night there. But any roof is
+good in such a storm. Ride fast! We may arrive before the downpour.'</p>
+
+<p>My horse had broken to a canter of his own accord. I urged him to a
+gallop. We flew round the bay. The village on the headland took shape
+rapidly&mdash;a few cube-shaped, whitewashed houses perched amid what
+seemed at first to be great rocks, but on a close approach revealed
+themselves as blocks of masonry, the ruins of some city of antiquity.
+From time to time a jet of spray shot up above them, white as lilies
+in the gloom. The sea was rising. I discerned an ancient gateway
+opening on the beach, and set my horse towards it, while the rain came
+down in sheets. I saw no more until the ruins loomed up close before
+me, a blind wall.</p>
+
+<p>'Your right hand!' called Rash&icirc;d; and, bearing to the right, I found
+the gateway. We waited <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>underneath its vault until the muleteer, a
+dripping object, shrouded in a sack, came up with his two mules; and
+then we once more plunged into the deluge. The path, a very rough one,
+wavered up and down and in and out among the ruins. There were,
+perhaps, a dozen scattered houses without gardens or any sign of
+cultivation round them. Only one of them possessed an upper storey,
+and towards that, supposing it to be the guest-room, we now picked our
+way. It stood alone right out upon the promontory, topped by clouds of
+spray.</p>
+
+<p>A little courtyard gave us partial shelter while Rash&icirc;d ran up some
+rough stone steps and hammered at a door, exclaiming:</p>
+
+<p>'Peace be on this house! My master craves for food and shelter, and
+we, his servants, ask the same boon of thy goodness. O master of the
+house, God will reward thy hospitality!'</p>
+
+<p>The door was opened and a man appeared, bidding us all come in, in
+Allah's name. He was of middle height and thick-set, with a heavy grey
+moustache. An old-fashioned, low-crowned fez, with large blue tassel,
+was bound about his brow with an embroidered turban. A blue zouave
+jacket, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>crimson vest and baggy trousers of a darker blue completed
+his apparel, for his feet were bare. In his girdle were a pair of
+pistols and a scimitar.</p>
+
+<p>He bade us welcome in bad Arabic, showing us into a good-sized
+room&mdash;the upper chamber we had seen from far. Its windows, innocent of
+glass, were closed by wooden shutters, roughly bolted, which creaked
+and rattled in the gale. A very fine-looking old man rose from the
+divan to greet us.</p>
+
+<p>'What countryman art thou? A Turk, or one of us?' he asked, as I
+removed my head-shawl. 'An Englishman, sayest thou?' He seized my
+hand, and pressed it. 'An Englishman&mdash;any Englishman&mdash;is good, and his
+word is sure. But the English Government is very bad. Three Englishmen
+in Kars behaved like warrior-angels, fought like devils. And while
+they fought for us their Government betrayed our country. What? Thou
+hast heard about it? Praise to Allah! At last I meet with one who can
+confirm the story. My son here thinks that I invented it.'</p>
+
+<p>I happened to have read of the defence of Kars under the leadership of
+three heroic Englishmen&mdash;General Williams, Captain Teesdale, and
+Doctor <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>Sandwith&mdash;and of the betrayal of the Circassian rising under
+Shamyl at the time of the Crimean war.</p>
+
+<p>The old man was delighted. 'Listen, O my son!' he called out to the
+person who had let us in. 'It is true what I have often told to thee.
+This Englishman knows all about it. So does all the world, except such
+blockheads as thyself and thy companions.'</p>
+
+<p>His son begged to be excused a minute while he put his crops into the
+barn. Therewith he dragged a sack out of the room. What crops he may
+have grown I do not know; but this I know&mdash;the contents of that sack
+clanked as he dragged it out.</p>
+
+<p>When he returned, he brought a bowl of eggs cooked in clarified
+butter, two slabs of bread, and a great jug of water, apologising for
+the coarseness of the fare. We all supped together, the old man
+babbling of the days of old with great excitement. His son stared at
+me with unblinking eyes. At last he said:</p>
+
+<p>'I like thee, O khaw&acirc;jah. I had once a son about thy age. Say, O my
+father, is there not a strong resemblance?'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>Thereafter he talked quite as much as the old man, giving me the
+history of their emigration from the Caucasus to escape the yoke of
+the accursed Muscovite, and enumerating all the troubles which
+attended their first coming into Syria.</p>
+
+<p>'We are not subjects of the Government,' he told me, 'but allies; and
+we have special privileges. But the dishonoured dogs round here forget
+old compacts, and want us to pay taxes like mere fell&acirc;h&icirc;n.'</p>
+
+<p>We sat up talking far into the night, while the storm raged without,
+and the rain and the sea-spray pounded on the shutters; and never have
+I met with kinder treatment. It was the custom for chance comers to
+have food at evening only and leave betimes next morning. But our
+host, when I awoke in splendid sunlight, had breakfast ready&mdash;sour
+milk and Arab bread and fragrant coffee&mdash;and when I went out to my
+horse he followed me, and thrust two roasted fowls into my
+saddle-bags, exclaiming 'Z&acirc;d!'&mdash;which means 'food for the road.' And
+much to my abashment he and the old <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>man fell upon my neck and kissed
+me on both cheeks.</p>
+
+<p>'Good people! The very best of people! They would take no money. God
+reward them,' chanted Rash&icirc;d, as we rode out of the ruins inland
+through a garden of wild flowers. The storm had passed completely. Not
+a cloud remained.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour we came in sight of a large khan outside a mud-built
+village on the shore. Before it was a crowd, including several
+soldiers. As we drew near, Rash&icirc;d inquired the meaning of the throng.</p>
+
+<p>'A great calamity,' he was informed. 'A man, a foreigner, is dying,
+killed by highwaymen. One of his companions, a poor servant, is
+already dead.'</p>
+
+<p>We both dismounted, and Rash&icirc;d pushed in to learn more of the matter.
+Presently a soldier came to me.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour is an Englishman?' he questioned. 'Praise be to Allah! I
+am much relieved. This other also is an Englishman, they tell me. He
+is severely wounded, at the gate of death.'</p>
+
+<p>I went with him at once to see the sufferer, who seemed relieved to
+hear me speak, but could not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>answer. Rash&icirc;d and I did what we could
+to make him comfortable, giving the soldiers orders to keep out the
+crowd. We decided to ride on and send a doctor, and then report the
+matter to a British consul.</p>
+
+<p>'He was going down to start some kind of business in the city over
+there,' the leader of the soldiers told me, nodding towards the south.
+'He had a largeish company, with several camels. But near the village
+of &mdash;&mdash; he was attacked by the Circassians, and was so foolish as to
+make resistance. They took everything he had of worth&mdash;his arms, his
+money&mdash;and killed a camel-driver, besides wounding him. It happened
+yesterday before the storm. They say I should take vengeance for him.
+What am I&mdash;a corporal with six men&mdash;to strive with Huseyn Agha and his
+cavalry! It needs a regiment.'</p>
+
+<p>He went grumbling off. Rash&icirc;d and I were staring hard at one another;
+for the village named was that where we had spent the night, and
+Huseyn Agha's roasted fowls were in our saddle-bags.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, as I could see, was troubled upon my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>account. He kept silence
+a good while. At last he said:</p>
+
+<p>'It is like this, my lord. Each man must see with his own eyes and not
+another's. People are as one finds them, good or bad. They change with
+each man's vision, yet remain the same. For us those highway robbers
+are good people; we must bless them; having cause to do so. This other
+man is free to curse them, if he will. Good to their friends, bad to
+their enemies. What creature of the sons of Adam can condemn them
+quite?'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER VIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>POLICE WORK</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Having to dress for dinner on a certain evening, I took off my
+money-belt, and quite forgot to put it on again. It happened to
+contain twelve English pounds. I left it lying on the table in the
+hotel bedroom. When I came back in the small hours of the morning it
+was gone. Rash&icirc;d&mdash;who slept out at a khan in charge of our two
+horses&mdash;came in at eight o'clock to rouse me. Hearing of my loss, he
+gave me the worst scolding I have ever had, and then went out to blow
+up the hotel proprietor.</p>
+
+<p>It was, for once, a real hotel with table d'h&ocirc;te, hall-porter, and a
+palm-lounge&mdash;everything, in fact, excepting drains. The owner was a
+fat, brown individual, whom I had generally seen recumbent on a sofa
+in his office, while someone of his many sons did all the work. But
+that he could show energy upon occasion I now learnt. Hearing from
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>Rash&icirc;d that I, a guest in his hotel, had suffered robbery, he sprang
+on to his feet and danced with rage.</p>
+
+<p>When I arrived upon the scene, which was the palm-lounge&mdash;an open
+courtyard shaded by an awning&mdash;he was flourishing a monstrous whip,
+with dreadful imprecations, literally foaming at the mouth. I begged
+him to do nothing rash, but he seemed not to hear me. With the squeal
+of a fighting stallion, he rushed off to the servants' quarters,
+whence presently there came heartrending shrieks and cries for mercy.
+His sons, in fear of murder, followed him, and added their
+remonstrance to the general din. The women of his house appeared in
+doorways, weeping and wringing their hands.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d seemed gratified by this confusion, regarded as a tribute to
+our greatness, his and mine.</p>
+
+<p>'Be good enough to go away,' he told me. 'The scene is quite unworthy
+of your dignity. I will take care that all is done to raise your
+honour.'</p>
+
+<p>I remained, however. Presently, the host returned, perspiring freely,
+mopping his brown face <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>with a crimson handkerchief. He smiled as one
+who has had healthy exercise.</p>
+
+<p>'It is no use,' he told me, with a shrug. 'I beat them well, and every
+one of them confessed that he alone, and not another, was the thief.
+Each, as his turn came, wished to stay my hand at any cost.'</p>
+
+<p>He sank down on a sofa which was in the court. 'What further is your
+Honour's will?' he asked. 'I will beat anyone. The story is so bad for
+the hotel. I should be ruined if it reached the ears of Cook or
+Baedeker.'</p>
+
+<p>The cries of those unhappy servants having shamed me, I told him that
+I was content to count the money lost rather than that harmless folk
+should suffer for my carelessness. Rash&icirc;d protested, saying twelve
+pounds was no trifle, although I might, in youthful folly, so regard
+it. He, as my servant, had to guard my wealth.</p>
+
+<p>'The gold is lost. It is the will of Allah. Let it be,' I answered
+irritably.</p>
+
+<p>'Thou wilt not tell the English consul?' cried the host, with sudden
+eagerness. 'Thou wilt refrain from saying any word to Cook or Baedeker
+to bring ill-fame and ruin on the place? Our Lord <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>augment thy wealth
+and guard thee always! May thy progeny increase in honour till it
+rules the world!'</p>
+
+<p>'But something must be done,' Rash&icirc;d remonstrated. 'A crime has been
+committed. We must find the culprit.'</p>
+
+<p>'True,' said the host, 'and I will help with all my strength. The
+consul would not help at all. He would but frighten the police, with
+the result that they would torture&mdash;perhaps hang&mdash;a man or two, but
+not the man who stole your belt of money. Our police, when not
+alarmed, are clever. Go to them and give a little money. They will
+find the thief.'</p>
+
+<p>'I go this minute,' said Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>I bade him wait. Knowing his way of magnifying me and my possessions,
+I thought it better to be present at the interview, lest he should
+frighten the police no less than would the intervention of a consul.</p>
+
+<p>We went together through the shady markets, crossing here and there an
+open space of blinding sunlight, asking our way at intervals, until at
+last <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>we entered a large whitewashed room where soldiers loitered and
+a frock-coated, be-fezzed official sat writing at a desk. This
+personage was very sympathetic.</p>
+
+<p>'Twelve pounds!' he cried. 'It is a serious sum. The first thing to be
+done is to survey the scene of crime. Wait, I will send with you a
+knowing man.'</p>
+
+<p>He called one of the soldiers, who stepped forward and saluted, and
+gave him charge of the affair.</p>
+
+<p>'You can place confidence in him. He knows his business,' he assured
+me, bowing with extreme politeness, as we took our leave.</p>
+
+<p>With the soldier who had been assigned to us we sauntered back to the
+hotel. The man abounded in compassion for me. He said it was the worst
+case he had ever heard of&mdash;to rob a man so manifestly good and amiable
+of so great a sum. Alas! the badness of some people. It put out the
+sun!</p>
+
+<p>At the hotel he spent a long while in my room, searching, as he said,
+for 'traces.' Rash&icirc;d, the host and all his family, and nearly all the
+servants, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>thronged the doorway. After looking into every drawer, and
+crawling underneath the bed, which he unmade completely, he spent some
+minutes in debating whether the thief had entered by the window or the
+door. Having at last decided for the door, he turned to me and asked
+if there was anybody I suspected. When I answered 'no,' I saw him
+throw a side-glance at Rash&icirc;d, as if he thought him fortunate in
+having so obtuse a master. As he was departing, Rash&icirc;d, at my command,
+gave him a silver coin, for which he kissed my hand and, having done
+so, said:</p>
+
+<p>'I know a clever man, none like him for such business. I will send him
+to your presence in an hour.'</p>
+
+<p>Three hours passed. I had finished luncheon, and was sipping coffee in
+the lounge, when a sleek personage in gorgeous robes was brought to
+me. He had a trick of looking down his nose at his moustache, the
+while he stroked it, with a gentle smirk.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Excellency has been robbed,' he murmured in a secret tone, 'and
+you would know the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>robber? There is nothing simpler. I have
+discovered many thieves. I think it likely that I know the very man. I
+will disguise myself as an old woman or a begging dervish. There are
+many ways. But, first, your Honour must bestow on me an English pound.
+That is my fee. It is but little for such services.'</p>
+
+<p>I answered languidly that the affair had ceased to thrill me; I wished
+to hear no more about the money or the thief. He stayed a long while,
+wheedling and remonstrating, depicting his own subtlety in glowing
+terms; but in the end departed with despairing shrugs and backward
+glances, hoping that I might relent.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, who had been out to tend the horses, came presently and asked
+if I had seen the great detective. When I described our interview, he
+nearly wept.</p>
+
+<p>'The people here think me the thief,' he told me. 'They say nothing,
+but I feel it in their bearing towards me. And now you give up seeking
+for the culprit! Am I to bear this shame for evermore?'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>Here was a new dilemma! No way out of it appeared to me, for even if
+we did employ the great detective, our chance of finding the
+delinquent seemed exceeding small. I was thinking what could possibly
+be done to clear Rash&icirc;d, when a familiar figure came into the court
+and strolled towards us. It was Suleym&acirc;n! I had imagined him three
+hundred miles away, at Gaza, in the south of Palestine. Loud were our
+exclamations, but his calm rebuked us. I never knew him show
+excitement or surprise.</p>
+
+<p>He heard our story with deliberation, and shook his head at the police
+and the detective.</p>
+
+<p>'No use at all,' he scoffed. 'The one man for your purpose is the
+Chief of the Thieves. I know him intimately.'</p>
+
+<p>'Ma sh'Allah! Is there then a guild of thieves?'</p>
+
+<p>'There is.'</p>
+
+<p>'The Sheykh of the Thieves must be the greatest rogue. I do not care
+to have to do with him.'</p>
+
+<p>'You err,' remarked Suleym&acirc;n, with dignity. 'Your error has its root
+in the conviction that a thief is evil. He may be evil as an
+individual; all men are apt to be who strive for gain; but as a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>member of a corporation he has pride and honour. With Europeans, it is
+just the opposite. They individually are more honourable than their
+governments and corporations. The Sheykh of the Thieves, I can assure
+you, is the soul of honour. I go at once to see him. He can clear
+Rash&icirc;d.'</p>
+
+<p>'If he does that, he is the best of men!' exclaimed my servant.</p>
+
+<p>An hour later one of the hotel men, much excited, came to tell me that
+some soldiers were approaching, who had caught the thief. The host and
+all his family ran out into the hall. Rash&icirc;d and all the servants came
+from kitchen purlieus. Four soldiers entered with triumphant
+exclamations, dragging and pushing forward&mdash;Suleym&acirc;n!</p>
+
+<p>The prisoner's demeanour had its usual calm.</p>
+
+<p>'I have regained the belt,' he called to me. 'These men were watching
+near the house, and found it on me. They would not hear reason. The
+man who stole the belt&mdash;a Greek&mdash;has left the city. He gave the Sheykh
+the belt, but kept the money.'</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers, disappointed, let him go.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>'How dost thou know all that?' inquired their leader.</p>
+
+<p>'The Headman of the Thieves informed me of it.'</p>
+
+<p>'Ah, then, it is the truth,' the soldier nodded. 'He is a man of
+honour. He would not deceive thee.'</p>
+
+<p>I do not claim to understand these things. I but relate them.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER IX<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>MY COUNTRYMAN</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>One summer, in the south of Syria, amid that tumbled wilderness of
+cliff and chasm, shale and boulder, which surges all around the Sea of
+Lot, we had been riding since the dawn without encountering a human
+being, and with relief at last espied a village, having some trace of
+cultivated land about it, and a tree.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d was on ahead. Suleym&acirc;n had been beside me, but had dropped
+behind in order to perform some operation on his horse's hoof. As I
+came down the last incline on to the village level I heard angry
+shouts, and saw a crowd of fell&acirc;h&icirc;n on foot mobbing Rash&icirc;d. Urging my
+horse, I shouted to him to know what was happening. At once a number
+of the villagers forsook him and surrounded me, waving their arms
+about and talking volubly.</p>
+
+<p>I had gathered, from their iteration of the one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>word 'moyeh,' that
+water was the matter in dispute, even before Rash&icirc;d succeeded in
+rejoining me.</p>
+
+<p>He said: 'I rode up to the spring which flows beneath that arch, and
+was letting my horse drink from the stone trough of water, when these
+maniacs rushed up and dragged my horse away, and made this noise. They
+say the water in the spring is theirs, and no one else has any right
+to touch it. I offered to make payment, but they would not hear me. I
+threatened them with vengeance, but they showed no fear. Is it your
+Honour's will that I should beat a few of them?'</p>
+
+<p>Seeing their numbers, I considered it the wiser plan for us to let
+them be till their excitement had cooled down, and till Suleym&acirc;n
+arrived to help us with advice. Accordingly, I smiled and nodded to
+the villagers, and rode back up the path a little way, Rash&icirc;d obeying
+my example with reluctance, muttering curses on their faith and
+ancestry. Then we dismounted and lay down in the shadow of some rocks.
+It wanted still two hours before the sun would set.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n came on us, and dismounted at a call from me.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>'What is the noise down there?' he questioned, looking at the village
+with that coolness, like indifference, habitual to his face when
+meeting problems of importance.</p>
+
+<p>'They will not let us touch the water&mdash;curse their fathers!' growled
+Rash&icirc;d. 'Heard anyone the like of such inhospitality? It would but
+serve them right if we destroyed their houses.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n screwed up his eyes, the better to survey the crowd of
+villagers below, who now sat guard around the spring, and murmured
+carelessly:</p>
+
+<p>'It is evident that thou hast angered them, O son of rashness. We
+shall do well to wait before approaching them again with our polite
+request.'</p>
+
+<p>Therewith he stretched his length upon the ground, with a luxurious
+sigh, and would, I think, have gone to sleep, had not Rash&icirc;d,
+conceiving himself blamed, thought necessary to relate in full the
+whole adventure.</p>
+
+<p>'What else could man have done?' he asked defiantly. 'Say in what
+respect, however trifling, did I act unwisely?'</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, thou didst nothing wrong, and yet <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>thou mightest have done
+better, since thy efforts led to failure,' said the sage, benignly.
+'Thou art a soldier yet in thought, and thy one method is to threaten.
+If that avails not, thou art helpless. There are other ways.'</p>
+
+<p>'I offered money,' cried Rash&icirc;d indignantly. 'Could man do more?'</p>
+
+<p>'What are those other ways? Instruct us, O beloved!' I put in, to save
+Rash&icirc;d from feeling lonely under blame for ignorance.</p>
+
+<p>'No truly great one ever argues with a crowd. He chooses out one man,
+and speaks to him, him only,' said Suleym&acirc;n; and he was going to tell
+us more, but just then something in the wadi down below the village
+caught his eye, and he sat up, forgetting our dilemma.</p>
+
+<p>'A marvel!' he exclaimed after a moment spent in gazing. 'Never, I
+suppose, since first this village was created, have two Franks
+approached it in a single day before. Thou art as one of us in outward
+seeming,' he remarked to me; 'but yonder comes a perfect Frank with
+two attendants.'</p>
+
+<p>We looked in the direction which his finger pointed, and beheld a man
+on horseback clad in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>white from head to foot, with a pith helmet and
+a puggaree, followed by two native servants leading sumpter-mules.</p>
+
+<p>'Our horses are in need of water,' growled Rash&icirc;d, uninterested in the
+sight. 'It is a sin for those low people to refuse it to us.'</p>
+
+<p>'Let us first wait and see how this newcomer fares, what method he
+adopts,' replied Suleym&acirc;n, reclining once more at his ease.</p>
+
+<p>The Frank and his attendants reached the outskirts of the village, and
+headed naturally for the spring. The fell&acirc;h&icirc;n, already put upon their
+guard by Rash&icirc;d's venture, opposed them in a solid mass. The Frank
+expostulated. We could hear his voice of high command.</p>
+
+<p>'Aha, he knows some Arabic. He is a missionary, not a traveller,' said
+Suleym&acirc;n, who now sat up and showed keen interest. 'I might have known
+it, for the touring season is long past.'</p>
+
+<p>He rose with dignified deliberation and remounted. We followed him as
+he rode slowly down towards the scene of strife. When we arrived, the
+Frank, after laying about him vainly with his riding-whip, had drawn
+out a revolver. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>He was being stoned. His muleteers had fled to a safe
+distance. In another minute, as it seemed, he would have shot some
+person, when nothing under Allah could have saved his life.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n cried out in English: 'Don't you be a fool, sir! Don't you
+fire!'</p>
+
+<p>The Frank looked round in our direction, with an angry face; but
+Suleym&acirc;n bestowed no further thought on him. He rode up to the nearest
+group of fell&acirc;h&icirc;n, crying aloud:</p>
+
+<p>'O true believers! O asserters of the Unity! Bless the Prophet, and
+inform me straightway what has happened!'</p>
+
+<p>Having captured their attention by this solemn adjuration, he
+inquired:</p>
+
+<p>'Who is the chief among you? Let him speak, him only!'</p>
+
+<p>Although the crowd had seemed till then to be without a leader, an old
+white-bearded man was thrust before him, with the cry:</p>
+
+<p>'Behold our Sheykh, O lord of judgment. Question him!'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d and I heard nothing of the conversation which ensued, except
+the tone of the two voices, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>which appeared quite friendly, and some
+mighty bursts of laughter from the crowd. No more stones were thrown,
+although some persons still kept guard over the spring.</p>
+
+<p>At length Suleym&acirc;n returned to us, exclaiming:</p>
+
+<p>'All is well. They grant us leave to take what water we require. The
+spring has been a trouble to these people through the ages because the
+wandering tribes with all their herds come here in time of drought and
+drink it dry. But now they are our friends, and make us welcome.'</p>
+
+<p>He called out to the Frank, who all this while had sat his horse with
+an indignant air, more angry, as it seemed, to be forgotten than to be
+assailed:</p>
+
+<p>'It is all right. You take the water and you pay them five piastres.'</p>
+
+<p>'It is extortion!' cried the Frank. 'What right have they to charge me
+money for the water of this natural spring, which is the gift of God?
+I will not pay.'</p>
+
+<p>'No matter. I pay for you,' shrugged Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>I tried to make the missionary&mdash;for such he proved to be upon
+acquaintance&mdash;understand that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>the conditions in that desert country
+made the spring a valued property, and gave a price to every
+pitcherful of water.</p>
+
+<p>'What! Are you English?' was his only answer, as he scanned my
+semi-native garb with pity and disgust. 'And who, pray, is that person
+with you who was rude to me?'</p>
+
+<p>'His name is Suleym&acirc;n. He is a friend of mine.'</p>
+
+<p>'A friend, I hardly think,' replied the Frank, fastidiously. He was a
+big man, with a dark complexion and light eyes. 'I am going to camp
+here to-night. I have a tent. Perhaps you will be good enough to come
+and sup with me. Then we can talk.'</p>
+
+<p>'With pleasure,' I made answer, taken by surprise.</p>
+
+<p>'Where is your camp?' he asked.</p>
+
+<p>'We haven't got one. We put up in the guest-room if there is one, or
+under the stars.'</p>
+
+<p>'Well, there's no accounting for tastes,' he murmured, with a sneer.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, through all this conversation, had been standing by, waiting
+to tell me that Suleym&acirc;n had gone before into the village to the
+headman's house, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>where it had been arranged that we should pass the
+night. Thither we went, when I had finished speaking to the
+missionary; and there we found Suleym&acirc;n enthroned among the village
+elders in a long, low room. He stood up on my entrance, as did all the
+others, and explained:</p>
+
+<p>'We have a room near by where we can throw our saddle-bags, but it is
+verminous, and so we will not sleep inside it, but outside&mdash;on the
+roof. For supper we are the invited guests of the good sheykh, and I
+can tell you he is getting ready a fine feast.'</p>
+
+<p>With deep regret and some degree of shame I told him of my promise to
+take supper with the missionary. He looked reproach at me, and told
+the villagers what I had said. They all cried out in disappointment.
+Suleym&acirc;n suggested that I should revoke the promise instantly, but
+that I would not do, to his annoyance; and after that, till it was
+time for me to go, he and Rash&icirc;d were sulky and withdrew their eyes
+from me. I knew that they were jealous of the Frank, whom they
+regarded as an enemy, and feared lest he should turn my mind against
+them.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER X<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE PARTING OF THE WAYS</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>It was dusk when I set out for the missionary's tent, and starlit
+night before I reached it&mdash;so fleeting is the summer twilight in that
+land.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d went with me, as in duty bound, and insisted on remaining with
+the servants of the missionary by the cook's fire, although I told him
+to go back repeatedly, knowing how his mouth must water for the
+headman's feast. The dudgeon which he felt at my desertion made him
+determined not to let me out of sight, and called for the martyrdom of
+someone, even let that someone be himself.</p>
+
+<p>The missionary called: 'Come in!' while I was still a good way off the
+tent. Entering, I found him stretched on a deck-chair, with hands
+behind his head. He did not rise upon my entrance, but just smiled and
+pointed to another chair beyond a little folding table laid for
+supper.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>He spoke of the day's heat and the fatigues of travel and the flies;
+and asked me how I could endure to sleep in native hovels full of
+fleas and worse.</p>
+
+<p>I told him that, by Suleym&acirc;n's arrangement, we were to sleep upon the
+roof for safety. He sniffed.</p>
+
+<p>I then related a discussion I had overheard between Rash&icirc;d and
+Suleym&acirc;n as to the best way of defeating those domestic pests,
+thinking to make him laugh. Rash&icirc;d had spoken of the virtues of a
+certain shrub; but Suleym&acirc;n declared the best specific was a new-born
+baby. This, if laid within a room for a short while, attracted every
+insect. The babe should then be carried out and dusted. The missionary
+did not even smile.</p>
+
+<p>'The brutes!' he murmured. 'How can you, an Englishman, and apparently
+a man of education, bear their intimacy?'</p>
+
+<p>They had their good points, I asserted&mdash;though, I fear, but lamely;
+for the robustness of his attitude impressed me, he being a man,
+presumably, of wide experience, and, what is more, a clergyman&mdash;the
+kind of man I had been taught to treat with some respect.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>He said no more till we had finished supper, which consisted of
+sardines and corned beef and sliced pineapple, tomatoes and
+half-liquid butter out of tins, and some very stale European bread
+which he had brought with him. Confronted with such mummy food, I
+thought with longing of the good, fresh meal which I had left behind
+me at the headman's house. He may have guessed my thoughts, for he
+observed: 'I never touch their food. It is insanitary'&mdash;which I knew
+to be exactly what they said of his.</p>
+
+<p>The man who waited on us seemed to move in fear, and was addressed by
+his employer very curtly.</p>
+
+<p>After the supper there was tea, which, I confess, was welcome, and
+then the missionary put me through a kind of catechism. Finding out
+who I was, and that we had some friends in common, he frowned deeply.
+He had heard of my existence in the land, it seemed.</p>
+
+<p>'What are you doing here at all?' he asked severely. 'At your age you
+should be at college or in training for some useful work.'</p>
+
+<p>'I'm learning things,' I told him rather feebly.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>His point of view, the point of view of all my countrymen, imposed
+itself on me as I sat there before him, deeply conscious of my youth
+and inexperience.</p>
+
+<p>'What things?' he asked. And then his tongue was loosed. He gave me
+his opinion of the people of the country, and particularly of my two
+companions. He had summed them up at sight. They were two cunning
+rogues, whose only object was to fleece me. He told me stories about
+Englishmen who had been ruined in that very way through making friends
+with natives whom they thought devoted to them. One story ended in a
+horrid murder. He wanted me to have no more to do with them, and when
+he saw I was attached to them, begged me earnestly to treat them
+always as inferiors, to 'keep them in their place'; and this I
+promised, coward-like, to do, although I knew that, in the way he
+meant, it was not in me.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed that he himself was travelling in these wild places in
+search of an old Greek inscription, mention of which he had discovered
+in some book. He half-persuaded me to bear him company.</p>
+
+<p>'You are doing no good here, alone with such <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>companions,' he said, as
+I at last departed. 'Think over my advice to you. Go back to England.
+Come with me for the next few days, and share my tents. Then come and
+stay with me in Jerusalem, and we can talk things over.' There was no
+doubt of the kindliness of his intention.</p>
+
+<p>I thanked him, and strolled back toward the village in the starlight,
+Rash&icirc;d, who, at my first appearance, had detached himself from a small
+group which sat around the missionary's kitchen fire, stalking on
+before me with a lantern.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed a wonder that the village dogs, which had made so great a
+noise on our arrival in the place so short a while before, now took no
+notice, seeming to recognise our steps as those of lawful inmates.</p>
+
+<p>At the headman's house Suleym&acirc;n still sat up talking with the village
+elders. He expressed a hope that I had much enjoyed myself, but with a
+hint of grievance which I noticed as a thing expected. Looking round
+upon those eager, friendly faces, I compared them with the cold face
+of the missionary, who suddenly appeared to me as a great bird of
+prey. I hated him instinctively, for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>he was like a schoolmaster; and
+yet his words had weight, for I was young to judge, and schoolmasters,
+though hateful, have a knack of being in the right.</p>
+
+<p>At last we three went up on to the roof to sleep. We had lain down and
+said 'good night' to one another, when Suleym&acirc;n remarked, as if
+soliloquising:</p>
+
+<p>'Things will never be the same.'</p>
+
+<p>'What do you mean?' I questioned crossly.</p>
+
+<p>'That missionary has spoilt everything. He told you not to trust us,
+not to be so friendly with persons who are natives of this land, and
+therefore born inferior.'</p>
+
+<p>I made no answer, and Suleym&acirc;n went on:</p>
+
+<p>'A man who journeys in the desert finds a guide among the desert
+people, and he who journeys on the sea trusts seamen. What allegations
+did he make? I pray you tell us!'</p>
+
+<p>'He told me stories of his own experience.'</p>
+
+<p>'His experience is not, never will be, yours. He is the enemy. A
+tiger, if one asked him to describe mankind, would doubtless say that
+they are masters of the guile which brings destruction, deserving
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>only to be clawed to death. Question the pigeons of some mosque, upon
+the other hand, and they will swear by Allah men are lords of all
+benevolence.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d broke in: 'His boys, with whom I talked, inform me that he is
+devoid of all humanity. He never thanks them for their work, however
+perfect, nor has a word of blessing ever passed his lips. He frowns
+continually. How can he be the same as one like thee who laughs and
+talks?'</p>
+
+<p>We had all three sat up, unconsciously. And we continued sitting up,
+debating miserably under the great stars, hearing the jackals' voices
+answer one another from hill to hill both near and far, all through
+that night, drawing ever closer one to another as we approached an
+understanding.</p>
+
+<p>'An Englishman such as that missionary,' said Suleym&acirc;n, 'treats good
+and bad alike as enemies if they are not of his nation. He gives bare
+justice; which, in human life, is cruelty. He keeps a strict account
+with every man. We, when we love a man, keep no account. We never
+think of what is due to us or our position. And when we hate&mdash;may <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>God
+forgive us!&mdash;it is just the same&mdash;save with the very best and coolest
+heads among us.'</p>
+
+<p>'But you are cunning, and have not our code of honour,' I objected,
+with satirical intention, though the statement sounded brutal.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour says so!' cried Rash&icirc;d, half weeping. 'No doubt you are
+referring to that theft in the hotel, of which you thought so little
+at the time that you would take no action. That was the doing of a
+Greek, as was established. Say, can you of your own experience of
+children of the Arabs say that one of us has ever robbed you of a
+small para, or wronged you seriously?'</p>
+
+<p>'I cannot,' was my answer, after brief reflection. 'But the experience
+of other, older men must weigh with me.'</p>
+
+<p>'Let other men judge people as they find them, and do thou likewise,'
+said Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'He urged me to give up this aimless wandering and go with him in
+search of an old Greek inscription, not far off. Within four days he
+hopes to see El Cuds again; and thence he urged me to return to
+England.'</p>
+
+<p>At that my two companions became silent and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>exceeding still, as if
+some paralysing fear hung over them. It was the hour immediately
+before the dawn, and life seemed hopeless. The missionary's voice
+seemed then to me the call of duty, yet every instinct in my blood was
+fierce against it.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour will do what he pleases,' said my servant mournfully.</p>
+
+<p>'The Lord preserve thee ever!' sighed Suleym&acirc;n. 'Thou art the leader
+of the party. Give command.'</p>
+
+<p>A streak of light grew on the far horizon, enabling us to see the
+outlines of the rugged landscape. A half-awakened wild-bird cried
+among the rocks below us. And suddenly my mind grew clear. I cared no
+longer for the missionary's warning. I was content to face the dangers
+which those warnings threatened; to be contaminated, even ruined as an
+Englishman. The mischief, as I thought it, was already done. I knew
+that I could never truly think as did that missionary, nor hold myself
+superior to Eastern folk again. If that was to be reprobate, then I
+was finished.</p>
+
+<p>'Saddle the horses. We will start at once,' I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>told Rash&icirc;d. 'Before
+the missionary is afoot&mdash;towards the East.'</p>
+
+<p>For a moment he sat motionless, unable to believe his ears. Then
+suddenly he swooped and kissed my hand, exclaiming: 'Praise be to
+Allah!'</p>
+
+<p>'Praise be to Allah!' echoed Suleym&acirc;n, with vast relief. 'The tiger in
+thee has not triumphed. We shall still know joy.'</p>
+
+<p>'I resign myself to be the pigeon of the mosque,' I answered, laughing
+happily.</p>
+
+<p>Five minutes later we were riding towards the dawn, beginning to grow
+red behind the heights of Moab.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE KNIGHT ERRANT</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>We had left Damascus after noon the day before, and had spent the
+night at a great fortress-khan&mdash;the first of many on the pilgrims'
+road. We had been on our way an hour before Rash&icirc;d discovered that he
+had left a pair of saddle-bags behind him at the khan; and as those
+saddle-bags contained belongings of Suleym&acirc;n, the latter went back
+with him to retrieve them. I rode on slowly, looking for a patch of
+shade. Except the khan, a square black object in the distance, there
+was nothing in my range of vision to project a shadow larger than a
+good-sized thistle. Between a faint blue wave of mountains on the one
+hand and a more imposing but far distant range upon the other, the
+vast plain rolled to the horizon in smooth waves.</p>
+
+<p>I was ascending such an undulation at my horse's leisure when a
+cavalier appeared upon its summit&mdash;a figure straight out of the pages
+of some book <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>of chivalry, with coloured mantle streaming to the
+breeze, and lance held upright in the stirrup-socket. This knight was
+riding at his ease till he caught sight of me, when, with a shout, he
+laid his lance in rest, lowered his crest and charged. I was
+exceedingly alarmed, having no skill in tournament, and yet I could
+not bring myself to turn and flee. I rode on as before, though with a
+beating heart, my purpose, if I had one, being, when the moment came,
+to lean aside, and try to catch his spear, trusting in Allah that my
+horse would stand the shock. But the prospect of success was small,
+because I could see nothing clearly, till suddenly the thunder of the
+hoof-beats ceased, and I beheld the knight within ten yards of me,
+grinning and saluting me with lance erect, his horse flung back upon
+its haunches.</p>
+
+<p>'I frightened thee, O Faranji?' he asserted mockingly.</p>
+
+<p>I replied that it would take more than such a wretched mountebank as
+he could do to frighten me, and showed him my revolver, which, until
+the fear was over, had escaped my memory. It pleased <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>him, and he
+asked for it immediately. I put it back.</p>
+
+<p>'A pretty weapon,' he agreed, 'but still I frightened thee.'</p>
+
+<p>I shrugged and sneered, disdaining further argument, and thought to
+pass him; but he turned his horse and rode beside me, asking who I was
+and where I came from, and what might be my earthly object in riding
+thus towards the desert all alone. I answered all his questions very
+coldly, which did not disconcert him in the least. Hearing that I had
+attendants, one of whom had skill in warfare, he said that he would
+wait with me till they came up. I tried to frighten him with tales of
+all the men Rash&icirc;d had slain in single combat: he was all the more
+determined to remain with me, saying that he would gain much honour
+from destroying such a man.</p>
+
+<p>'But I do suspect that thou are lying, O most noble Faranji, and that
+this boasted champion is some wretched townsman whose only courage is
+behind a wall,' he chuckled.</p>
+
+<p>At that I was indignant, and I lied the more.</p>
+
+<p>Thus talking, we came near a piece of ruined <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>wall, which cast
+sufficient shadow for a man to rest in. The knight dismounted and tied
+up his horse. I was for riding on, but he made such an outcry that,
+wishing to avoid a quarrel, I alighted also and tied up my horse. We
+lay down near together in the strip of shade. He passed me a rough
+leathern water-bottle, and I took a draught of warmish fluid, tasting
+like the smell of goats. He took a longer draught, and then exclaimed:
+'There are thy friends.'</p>
+
+<p>Far off upon the plain two specks were moving. I could not have told
+man from man at such a distance, but the knight was able to
+distinguish and describe them accurately.</p>
+
+<p>'The younger man who sits erect upon his horse&mdash;he is no doubt the
+warrior of whom thou speakest. The other, plump and lolling, has the
+air of greatness&mdash;a Pasha, maybe, or a man of law.'</p>
+
+<p>I told him that Suleym&acirc;n was a man of learning, and then let him talk
+while I took stock of his appearance. The figure out of books of
+chivalry was shabby on a close inspection. The coloured surcoat was
+both weather-stained and torn, the coat of mail beneath so ancient
+that many of the links <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>had disappeared completely; the holes where
+they had been were patched with hide, which also was beginning to give
+way in places. His age was about three-and-twenty; he had bright brown
+eyes, a black moustache and beard, and a malicious air. He looked a
+perfect ragamuffin, yet he spoke with condescension, talking much
+about his pedigree, which contained a host of names which I had never
+heard before&mdash;a fact which, when he realised it, filled him first with
+horror, then with pity of my ignorance. He expatiated also on his
+horse's pedigree, which was as lengthy as his own.</p>
+
+<p>When my friends came up, I quite expected them to rid me of the
+tiresome knight. But they did nothing of the sort. They took the man
+and his pretensions seriously, exchanging with him compliments in
+striking contrast with the haughty tone I had till then adopted.
+Rash&icirc;d refused his challenge with politeness, and, much to my dismay,
+Suleym&acirc;n, the older and more thoughtful man, accepted it upon
+condition that the combat should stand over till some more convenient
+time; and when the knight proclaimed his sovereign will to travel with
+us, they seemed pleased.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>'He will be useful to us,' said Rash&icirc;d, when I complained to him of
+this deception, 'for his tribe controls a great part of this country.
+But it will be best for me to carry our revolver while he rides with
+us. Then I and not your Honour can deny him, which is more becoming.'</p>
+
+<p>The knight had asked for my revolver thrice already.</p>
+
+<p>That evening, near a lonely village of the plain, the battle with
+Suleym&acirc;n was fought with equal honours, each rider hitting his man
+squarely with the long jerideh&mdash;the stripped palm-branch&mdash;which is
+substituted for the spear in friendly combat. The heroes faced each
+other at a regulated distance. Then one&mdash;it was Suleym&acirc;n&mdash;clapped
+spurs into his horse's flanks and fled, keeping within a certain space
+which might be called the lists; the other flying after him, with
+fearful yells, intent to fling the missile so that it should strike
+the victim in a certain manner. This lasted till the throw was made,
+and then the order was reversed, and the pursuer in his turn became
+the hunted.</p>
+
+<p>The knight applauded his opponent's skill <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>reluctantly, and with
+regret that he himself had not been in his usual form.</p>
+
+<p>He journeyed with us after that for many days. It seemed that he was
+out in search of exploits, so did not care a jot which way he rode. In
+former days, he told me, there used to be a tournament in every town
+each Friday, where any stranger knight might show his prowess, winning
+honour and renown. But in these degenerate times it was necessary for
+the would-be champion to cry his challenge in some public place, or
+else arrange the fight beforehand meanly in some tavern. I should have
+been delighted with him on the whole, if he had not been quarrelsome
+and had not expected us, as his companions, to extricate him from the
+strife in which his arrogance involved him. We dreaded the arrival at
+a town or village. If he had possessed the prowess of his courage,
+which was absolutely reckless, he would have been a more endurable, if
+dread, companion. But in almost every quarrel which he brought upon
+himself he got the worst of it, and was severely beaten, and then
+would talk to us about the honour of the Arabs till we fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>One night in the small town of Mazarib we rescued him from two
+Circassian bravoes whom he had insulted wantonly. They had nearly
+stopped his mouth for ever when we intervened. I cannot say he was
+ungrateful upon that occasion. On the contrary, he swore that he would
+not forsake us until death&mdash;a vow which filled us with dismay, for
+even Suleym&acirc;n by that time saw that he was useless; and Rash&icirc;d, our
+treasurer, resented his contempt of money. He had a way, too, of
+demanding anything of ours which took his fancy, and, if not forcibly
+prevented, taking it, peculiarly obnoxious to Rash&icirc;d, who idolised my
+few belongings. We were his friends, his manner told us, and he, the
+bravest of the brave, the noblest of the noble Arabs, was prepared to
+give his life for us at any time. Any trifles therefore which we might
+bestow on him were really nothing as compared with what he gave us
+every hour of every day.</p>
+
+<p>It grew unbearable. The people in the khan at Mazarib were laughing at
+us because that wretched Bedawi, a chance adherent, ruled our party.
+We plotted desperately to get rid of him.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>At length Suleym&acirc;n devised a scheme. It was that we should change the
+whole direction of our journey, turning aside into the mountain of the
+Druzes. The Druzes were at war with many of the Bedu&mdash;probably with
+this man's tribe; at any rate, a Bedawi, unless disguised, would run
+grave risk among them while the war was on.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, when we at length set out from Mazarib, Suleym&acirc;n, with
+many compliments, informed the knight of a dilemma which distressed us
+greatly. I had been summoned to the bedside of a friend of mine, a
+great Druze sheykh, now lying very ill, whose one wish was to gaze on
+me before he died. Rash&icirc;d chimed in to say how tenderly that Druze
+chief loved me, and how depressed I was by sorrow for his grievous
+illness. In short, it was imperative that we should go at once to the
+Druze mountain. What were our feelings when we suddenly bethought us
+that there was danger in that region for an Arab knight! Must we then
+part from our beloved, from our souls' companion? Suleym&acirc;n declared
+that we had wept like babes at such a prospect. No, that must never
+be; our grief would kill us. We had been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>obliged to think of some
+contrivance by which our hearts' delight might bear us company without
+much risk, and with the help of Allah we had hit upon a splendid plan,
+yet simple: That he should lay aside his lance and armour, dress as a
+Christian, and become our cook.</p>
+
+<p>'Why need he seem a Christian?' asked Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>'Because all cooks who go with English travellers are Christians,' was
+the earnest answer, 'and because no man would ever think to find a
+Bedawi beneath a Christian's cloak.'</p>
+
+<p>'A person of my master's standing ought to have a cook,' murmured
+Rash&icirc;d, as one who thought aloud.</p>
+
+<p>Never have I seen such horror in the face of man as then convulsed the
+features of the desert knight. He, a cook! He, the descendant of I
+know not whom, to wear the semblance of a heathen and degraded
+townsman! Rather than that he would encounter twenty spear-points. If
+we were going to the mountain of the Druzes, we might go alone!</p>
+
+<p>We all were eager to express regret. He listened with a sneer, and
+answered nothing. After a while he beckoned me to speak apart with
+him, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>and, when we were beyond the hearing of the others, said:</p>
+
+<p>'I leave thee now, O Faranji, and journey towards Nejd to seek
+adventures. Thou lovest me I am aware, and so I grieve to part from
+thee; but thy adherents are low people and devoured by envy. If ever
+we should meet again I will destroy them. If thou shouldst travel
+south and eastward through the Belka, remember me, I beg, and seek our
+tents. There thou shalt find a welcome far more hospitable than the
+Druze will give thee. I shall never cease to pray for thee. My grief
+will be extreme until we meet again. I pray thee give me that revolver
+as a souvenir.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE FANATIC</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>A European hat in those days was a rarity except in the large towns,
+and it attracted notice. That is the reason why I generally discarded
+it, with other too conspicuously Western adjuncts. Where the
+inhabitants were not well-mannered, the hat was apt to be saluted with
+a shower of stones.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon I happened to be riding by myself along a so-called road
+in the bare mountain country round Jerusalem, wearing a hat, when I
+came on a pedestrian resting in the shadow of a rock by the wayside.
+He was a native Christian&mdash;that much could be detected at a glance;
+but of what peculiar brand I could not guess from his costume, which
+consisted of a fez; a clerical black coat and waistcoat, quite of
+English cut, but very much the worse for wear; a yellow flannel shirt,
+and a red cord with tassels worn by way of necktie; baggy Turkish
+pantaloons; white stockings, and elastic-sided <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>boots. Beside him, a
+long staff leaned up against the rock. He sprang upon his feet at my
+approach, and, with an amiable smile and bow, exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'Good afternoon. I think you are an English gentleman?'</p>
+
+<p>I pleaded guilty to the charge, and he asked leave to walk beside me
+until past a certain village, not far distant, of which the people, he
+assured me, were extremely wicked and averse to Christians. I readily
+consented, and he took his staff and walked beside me, pouring out his
+soul in fulsome flattery.</p>
+
+<p>The village which he dreaded to approach alone was the abode of
+Muslims, devilish people who hate the righteous Christians and
+persecute them when they get the chance. He said that he looked
+forward to the day when the English would take over the whole country
+and put those evil-doers in their proper place, below the Christians.
+It would be a mercy and a blessing to the human race, he gave as his
+mature opinion, if the English were to conquer the whole world. They
+were so good and upright and so truly pious. He did not think that any
+wrong was ever done in England. And then:</p>
+
+<p>'You are a Br&ucirc;testant?' he asked.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>I answered that I was a member of the Church of England.</p>
+
+<p>'Ah, thank God!' he cried. 'I also am a Br&ucirc;testant&mdash;a Babtist.' He
+seemed to think that my avowal made us brothers.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed, from the account he gave me of himself, that he was an
+evangelist, working to spread the truth among his wicked
+country-people; for the Christians of the Greek and Latin Churches
+were both wicked and benighted, he informed me, and would persecute
+him, like the Muslims, if they got the chance. It was hard work, he
+told me, turning up his eyes to heaven. He grieved to say it, but
+there seemed no other way to purge the land of all those wicked people
+save destruction. He wondered that the Lord had not destroyed them
+long ago. Yet when I said that I did not agree with him, but thought
+that they were decent folk, though rather backward, he came round to
+my opinion in a trice, exclaiming:</p>
+
+<p>'Ah, how true you speak! It is that they are backward. They will
+neffer be no better till they get the Gosbel light, the liffin water.'</p>
+
+<p>I told him he was talking nonsense; that, for my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>part, I thought the
+missionaries did more harm than good, and once again he changed his
+standpoint, though less boldly, saying:</p>
+
+<p>'It is so delightful to talk thus freely to a noble English gentleman.
+God knows that I could listen for a day without fatigue, you talk so
+sweet. And what you say is all so new to me.'</p>
+
+<p>And he proceeded to relate with what severity the English missionaries
+treated native converts like himself, mentioning many wicked things
+which they had done in his remembrance. I could not but admire his
+versatility and total lack of shame in his desire to please. Thus
+talking, we approached the village of his fears.</p>
+
+<p>'If I was by myself I should be much afraid,' he fawned; 'but not with
+you. These wicked beoble do not dare to hurt an English gentleman, who
+wears the hat and is brotected by the Bowers of Eurobe.'</p>
+
+<p>We had not really got into the place before some boys at play among
+the rocks outside the houses, spying my hat, threw stones in our
+direction. One hit my horse. I raised my whip and rode at them. They
+fled with screams of terror. Glancing back, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>I could perceive no sign
+of my devout companion. But when I returned at leisure, having driven
+the young rogues to cover, I found him vigorously beating a small boy
+who had fallen in the panic flight and, finding himself left behind,
+had been too frightened to get up again.</p>
+
+<p>Never have I seen a face of such triumphant malice as then appeared on
+that demure evangelist. He beat the child as if he meant to kill it,
+muttering execrations all the while and looking round him furtively
+for fear lest other Muslims should appear in sight, in which case, I
+believe, he would at once have turned from blows to fondling.</p>
+
+<p>'The wicked boy!' he cried, as I came up, 'to throw stones at a noble
+English gentleman. He well deserfs to be deliffered ofer to the Bowers
+of Eurobe.'</p>
+
+<p>I bade him leave the child alone, or it would be the worse for him.
+Aggrieved, and, in appearance, shocked at my unsympathetic tone, he
+left his prey, and I endeavoured to speak comfort to the victim; who,
+however, took no notice of my words, but ran hard for the village,
+howling lustily.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span>'The wicked boy! The wicked children!' the evangelist kept moaning, in
+hesitating and half-contrite tones. 'It is a bity that you let him go.
+He will perhabs make trouble for us in the fillage. But you are so
+brafe. I think the English are the brafest kind of beeble.'</p>
+
+<p>I also thought it possible there might be trouble; but I decided to go
+on, not wishing to show fear before that craven. He cried aloud in awe
+and wonder when I told him that little boys threw stones in Christian
+England.</p>
+
+<p>'But only upon unbelievers!' he exclaimed imploringly, as one who
+would preserve his last illusion.</p>
+
+<p>I replied to the effect that members of the Church of England would,
+no doubt, have stoned a Baptist or a Roman Catholic with pleasure, if
+such heretics with us had dressed in a peculiar way; but that, in my
+opinion, it was only natural instinct in a boy to throw a stone at any
+living thing which seemed unusual.</p>
+
+<p>The shock this information gave him&mdash;or his private terrors&mdash;kept him
+silent through the village; where the people, men and women, watched
+us pass <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>with what appeared to be unfriendly faces. I was ill at ease,
+expecting some attack at every step.</p>
+
+<p>As luck would have it, at the far end of the place, when I could see
+the open country, and was giving thanks for our escape, a great big
+stone was thrown by a small boy quite close to me. It struck me on the
+arm, and hurt enough to make me really angry.</p>
+
+<p>'For God's sake, sir!' implored my terrified companion, 'Ride on! Do
+nothing! There are men obserfing.'</p>
+
+<p>I heard him taking to his heels. But I had caught the culprit, and was
+beating him. His yells went forth with terrible insistence:</p>
+
+<p>'O my father, O my mother, help. Ya Muslimin!'</p>
+
+<p>And, in a trice, I was surrounded by a group of surly-looking
+fell&acirc;h&icirc;n, one of whom told me curtly to release the boy. I did so
+instantly, prepared for trouble. But no sooner had I left off beating
+than that man began. The boy's appeals for help went forth anew; but
+this time he addressed them to his mother only, for his father held
+him.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>I begged the man to stop, and in the end he did so.</p>
+
+<p>All those ferocious-looking fell&acirc;h&icirc;n returned my smile at this
+conclusion, and wished me a good evening as I rode away.</p>
+
+<p>I never saw that bright evangelist again. No doubt he ran till he had
+reached some place inhabited by altogether righteous Christian people.
+But the way he started running was a clear inducement to pursuit to
+any son of Adam not evangelised.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>RASH&Icirc;D'S REVENGE</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>We were staying with an English friend of mine&mdash;a parson, though the
+least parsonical of men&mdash;who had a pleasant little house in a Druze
+village of Mount Lebanon, and nothing to do but watch, and do his
+utmost to restrain, the antics of a very wealthy and eccentric lady
+missionary. He had gone away for a few weeks, leaving us in
+possession, when another sort of clergyman arrived&mdash;a little man with
+long white beard, sharp nose, and pale, seraphic eyes. He was, or
+fancied that he was, on duty, inspecting missionary establishments in
+those mountains. The master of the house had once invited him to stay
+there if he passed that way. He seemed surprised to find us in
+possession, and treated us as interlopers, though I was in fact his
+host, regarding our small dwelling as a clergy house. His gaze
+expressed an innocent surprise when I sat down to supper with him and
+performed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>the honours on the night of his arrival. He gave his orders
+boldly to my servant, and his demeanour plainly asked what business I
+had there, though he would never listen to my explanation.</p>
+
+<p>I took the whole adventure philosophically, but rage and indignation
+took possession of Rash&icirc;d. And his indignation was increased by the
+popularity of our insulter with the girls and teachers of the
+mission-school hard by. Our guest was innocence itself, if silly and
+conceited. But Rash&icirc;d watched all his movements, and could tell me
+that the old 'hypocrite,' as he invariably called him, went to the
+school each day and kissed the pupils, taking the pretty ones upon his
+knee, and making foolish jokes, talking and giggling like an imbecile,
+bestowing sweetmeats. With them&mdash;for the most sinful motives, as
+Rash&icirc;d averred, and, I suppose, believed&mdash;he was all sugar; but when
+he came back to the house he was as grumpy as could be. Rash&icirc;d would
+have destroyed him at a nod from me one evening when he said:</p>
+
+<p>'I think I must have left my glasses over at the school. Will you be
+good enough to go and ask?'</p>
+
+<p>'Now your Honour knows how we feel when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>we meet a man like that; and
+there are many such among the Franks,' my servant whispered in my ear
+as I went out obediently. 'By Allah, it is not to be endured!'</p>
+
+<p>The parson occupied the only bedroom; and I slept out upon the balcony
+on his account. Yet he complained of certain of my garments hanging in
+his room, and flung them out. It was after that revolting episode,
+when I was really angry for a moment, that Rash&icirc;d came to me and said:</p>
+
+<p>'You hate this hypocrite; is it not so?'</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah,' I replied, 'I hate him.'</p>
+
+<p>He seemed relieved by the decision of my tone, and then informed me:</p>
+
+<p>'I know a person who would kill him for the sake of thirty English
+pounds.'</p>
+
+<p>It became, of course, incumbent on me to explain that, with us
+English, hatred is not absolute as with the children of the
+Arabs&mdash;mine had already reached the laughing stage. He was evidently
+disappointed, and answered with a weary sigh:</p>
+
+<p>'May Allah rid us of this foul oppression!'</p>
+
+<p>It was a bitter pill for him, whose whole endeavour was for my
+aggrandisement, to see me <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>treated like a menial by our guest; who,
+one fine evening, had me summoned to his presence&mdash;I had been sitting
+with some village elders in the olive grove behind the house&mdash;and made
+to me a strange proposal, which Rash&icirc;d declared by Allah proved his
+perfect infamy. His manner was for once quite amiable. Leaning back in
+a deck-chair, his two hands with palms resting on his waistcoat, the
+fingers raised communicating at the tips, he said, with clerical
+complacency:</p>
+
+<p>'It is my purpose to make a little tour to visit missionary ladies at
+three several places in these mountains, and then to go on to Jezz&icirc;n
+to see the waterfall. As you appear to know the country and the people
+intimately, and can speak the language, it would be well if you came
+too. The man Rash&icirc;d could wait upon us all.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, I knew, was listening at the door.</p>
+
+<p>'Us all? How many of you are there, then?'</p>
+
+<p>He hemmed a moment ere replying:</p>
+
+<p>'I&mdash;er&mdash;think of taking the Miss Karams with me'&mdash;Miss Sara Karam, a
+young lady of Syrian birth but English education, was head teacher at
+the girls' school, and her younger sister, Miss <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>Hab&icirc;bah Karam, was
+her constant visitor&mdash;'I thought you might take charge of the younger
+of the two. The trip will give them both great pleasure, I am sure.'</p>
+
+<p>And they were going to Jezz&icirc;n, where there was no hotel, and we should
+have to herd together in the village guest-room! What would my Arab
+friends, censorious in all such matters, think of that?</p>
+
+<p>I told him plainly what I thought of the idea, and what the
+mountain-folk would think of it and all of us. I told him that I had
+no wish to ruin any woman's reputation, nor to be forced into unhappy
+marriage by a public scandal. He, as a visitor, would go away again;
+as an old man, and professionally holy, his good name could hardly
+suffer among English people. But the girls would have to live among
+the mountaineers, who, knowing of their escapade, would thenceforth
+scorn them. And as for me&mdash;&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>'But I proposed a mere excursion,' he interpolated. 'I fail to see why
+you should take this tone about it.'</p>
+
+<p>'Well, I have told you what I think,' was my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>rejoinder. I then went
+out and told the story to Rash&icirc;d, who heartily applauded my decision,
+which he had already gathered.</p>
+
+<p>I did not see our simple friend again till after breakfast the next
+morning. Then he said to me, in something of a contrite tone:</p>
+
+<p>'I have been thinking over what you said last night. I confess I had
+not thought about the native gossip. I have decided to give up the
+expedition to Jezz&icirc;n. And it has occurred to me that, as you are not
+going, I could ride your horse. It would save the trouble and expense
+of hiring one, if you would kindly lend it.'</p>
+
+<p>Taken fairly by surprise, I answered: 'Certainly,' and then went out
+and told Rash&icirc;d what I had done. He wrung his hands and bitterly
+reproached me.</p>
+
+<p>'But there is one good thing,' he said; 'Sheyt&acirc;n will kill him.'</p>
+
+<p>In all the months that we had owned that horse Rash&icirc;d had never once
+before alluded to him by the name which I had chosen. It was
+ill-omened, he had often warned me. But nothing could be too
+ill-omened for that hypocrite.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>'I do not want to lend the horse at all,' I said. 'And I am pretty
+sure he could not ride him. But what was I to say? He took me by
+surprise.'</p>
+
+<p>'In that case,' said Rash&icirc;d, 'all is not said. Our darling shall enjoy
+his bath to-day.'</p>
+
+<p>The washing of my horse&mdash;a coal-black Arab stallion, as playful as a
+kitten and as mad&mdash;was in the nature of a public festival for all the
+neighbours. Sheyt&acirc;n was led down to the spring, where all the
+population gathered, the bravest throwing water over him with kerosene
+tins, while he plunged and kicked and roused the mountain echoes with
+his naughty screaming. On this occasion, for a finish, Rash&icirc;d let go
+his hold upon the head-rope, the people fled in all directions, and
+off went our Sheyt&acirc;n with tail erect, scrambling and careering up the
+terraces, as nimble as a goat, to take the air before returning to his
+stable.</p>
+
+<p>Our reverend guest had watched the whole performance from our balcony,
+which, from a height of some three hundred feet, looked down upon the
+spring. I was up there behind him, but I said no word till he
+exclaimed in pious horror:</p>
+
+<p>'What a vicious brute! Dangerous&mdash;ought to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>be shot!' when I inquired
+to what he was alluding.</p>
+
+<p>'Whose is that savage beast?' he asked, with quite vindictive ire,
+pointing to Sheyt&acirc;n, who was disporting on the terrace just below.</p>
+
+<p>'Oh, that's my horse,' I answered, interested. 'He's really quite a
+lamb.'</p>
+
+<p>'Your horse! You don't mean that?'</p>
+
+<p>He said no more just then, but went indoors, and then out to the
+mission school to see the ladies.</p>
+
+<p>That evening he informed me: 'I shall not require your horse. I had no
+notion that it was so strong an animal when I suggested borrowing it.
+Old C&acirc;sim at the school will hire one for me. I should be afraid lest
+such a valuable horse as yours might come to grief while in my
+charge.'</p>
+
+<p>That was his way of putting it.</p>
+
+<p>We watched the party start one early morning, the clergyman all
+smiles, the ladies in a flutter, all three mounted on hired chargers
+of the most dejected type, old C&acirc;sim from the school attending them
+upon a jackass. Rash&icirc;d addressed the last-named as he passed our
+house, applying a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>disgraceful epithet to his employment. The poor old
+creature wept.</p>
+
+<p>'God knows,' he said, 'I would not choose such service. But what am I
+to do? A man must live. And I will save my lady's virtue if I can.'</p>
+
+<p>'May Allah help thee!' said Rash&icirc;d. 'Take courage; I have robbed his
+eyes.'</p>
+
+<p>I had no notion of his meaning at the time when, sitting on the
+balcony, I overheard this dialogue; but later in the day Rash&icirc;d
+revealed to me two pairs of eyeglasses belonging to our guest. Without
+these glasses, which were of especial power, the reverend man could
+not see anything in detail.</p>
+
+<p>'And these two pairs were all he had,' exclaimed Rash&icirc;d with triumph.
+'He always used to put them on when looking amorously at the ladies.
+The loss of them, please God, will spoil his pleasure.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XIV<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE HANGING DOG</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Our English host possessed a spaniel bitch, which, being well-bred
+gave him much anxiety. The fear of m&eacute;salliances was ever in his mind,
+and furiously would he drive away the village pariahs when they came
+slinking round the house, with lolling tongues. One brown and white
+dog, larger than the others and with bristling hair, was a particular
+aversion, the thought of which deprived him of his sleep of nights;
+and not the thought alone, for that persistent suitor&mdash;more like a
+bear than any dog I ever saw&mdash;made a great noise around us in the
+darkness, whining, howling, and even scrabbling at the stable door. At
+length, in desperation, he resolved to kill him.</p>
+
+<p>One night, when all the village was asleep, we lay out on the balcony
+with guns and waited. After a while the shadow of a dog slinking among
+the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>olive trees was seen. We fired. The village and the mountains
+echoed; fowls clucked, dogs barked; we even fancied that we heard the
+cries of men. We expected the whole commune to rise up against us; but
+after a short time of waiting all was still again.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, out in the shadows, whispered: 'He is nice and fat,' as if he
+thought that we were going to eat the dog.</p>
+
+<p>'And is he dead?' I asked.</p>
+
+<p>'Completely dead,' was the reply.</p>
+
+<p>'Then get a cord and hang him to the balcony,' said my companion. 'His
+odour will perhaps attract the foxes.'</p>
+
+<p>Another minute and the corpse was hanging from the balcony, while we
+lay out and waited, talking in low tones.</p>
+
+<p>The bark of foxes came from vineyards near at hand, where there were
+unripe grapes. 'Our vines have tender grapes,' our host repeated;
+making me think of the fable of the fox and the grapes, which I
+related to Rash&icirc;d in Arabic as best I could. He laughed as he
+exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'Ripe grapes, thou sayest? Our foxes do not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>love ripe grapes and
+seldom steal them. I assure you, it was sour grapes that the villain
+wanted, and never did they seem so exquisitely sour as when he found
+out that he could not reach them. How his poor mouth watered!'</p>
+
+<p>This was new light upon an ancient theme for us, his hearers.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour or two of idle waiting, when no foxes came, we went to
+bed, forgetting all about the hanging dog.</p>
+
+<p>The house was close beside a carriage road which leads down from the
+chief town of the mountains to the city, passing many villages. As it
+was summer, when the wealthy citizens sleep in the mountain villages
+for coolness' sake, from the dawn onward there was a downward stream
+of carriages along that road. When the daylight became strong enough
+for men to see distinctly, the sight of a great brown and white dog
+hanging from our balcony, and slowly turning, struck terror in the
+breasts of passers-by. Was it a sign of war, or some enchantment?
+Carriage after carriage stopped, while its inhabitants attempted to
+explore the mystery. But there was nobody about to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>answer questions.
+My host and I, Rash&icirc;d as well, were fast asleep indoors. Inquirers
+looked around them on the ground, and then up at the shuttered house
+and then at the surrounding olive trees, in one of which they finally
+espied a nest of bedding on which reclined a blue-robed man asleep. It
+was the cook, Am&icirc;n, who slept there for fresh air. The firing of the
+night before had not disturbed him.</p>
+
+<p>By dint of throwing stones they woke him up, and he descended from his
+tree and stood before them, knuckling his eyes, which were still full
+of sleep.</p>
+
+<p>They asked: 'What means this portent of the hanging dog?'</p>
+
+<p>He stared incredulously at the object of their wonder, then exclaimed:
+'Some enemy has done it, to insult me, while I slept. No matter, I
+will be avenged before the day is out.'</p>
+
+<p>The tidings of the mystery ran through the village, and every
+able-bodied person came to view it, and express opinions.</p>
+
+<p>'The dog is well known. He is called Bar&ucirc;d; he was the finest in our
+village. He used to guard the dwelling of Sheykh Ali till he
+transferred his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>pleasure to the house of Sheykh Sel&icirc;m. It was a sin
+to kill him,' was the general verdict. And Am&icirc;n confirmed it, saying:
+'Aye, a filthy sin. But I will be avenged before the day is out.'</p>
+
+<p>At last Rash&icirc;d, awakened by the noise of talking, came out of the
+stable where he always slept, and with a laugh explained the whole
+occurrence. Some of the villagers were greatly shocked, and blamed us
+strongly. But Rash&icirc;d stood up for us, declaring that the dog belonged
+in truth to no man, so that no man living had the right to blame his
+murderer; whereas the valuable sporting bitch of the Cas&icirc;s (our host)
+was all his own, and it was his duty therefore to defend her from
+improper lovers. He then cut down the body of the dog, which no one up
+till then had dared to do; and all the people gradually went away.</p>
+
+<p>The coast was clear when we arose towards eight o'clock. Rash&icirc;d, with
+laughter, told the tale to us at breakfast. We had been silly, we
+agreed, to leave the hanging dog; and there, as we supposed, the
+matter ended.</p>
+
+<p>But hardly had we finished breakfast when a knock came at the open
+door, and we beheld a tall <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>and dignified fell&acirc;h depositing his staff
+against the doorpost and shuffling off his slippers at the call to
+enter.</p>
+
+<p>He said the murdered dog was his, and dear to him as his own eyes, his
+wife and children. He was the finest dog in all the village, of so
+rare a breed that no one in the world had seen a dog just like him. He
+had been of use to guard the house, and for all kinds of work. The
+fell&acirc;h declared his worth to be five Turkish pounds, which we must pay
+immediately unless we wished our crime to be reported to the
+Government.</p>
+
+<p>With as nonchalant an air as I could muster, I offered him a
+beshlik&mdash;fourpence halfpenny. He thereupon became abusive and
+withdrew&mdash;in the end, hurriedly, because Rash&icirc;d approached him in a
+hostile manner.</p>
+
+<p>He had not been gone ten minutes when another peasant came, asserting
+that the dog was really his, and he had been on the point of regaining
+his possession by arbitration of the neighbours when we shot the
+animal. He thus considered himself doubly injured&mdash;in his expectations
+and his property. He came to ask us instantly to pay an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>English
+pound, or he would lay the case before the Turkish governor, with
+whom, he could assure us, he had favour.</p>
+
+<p>I offered him the beshlik, and he also stalked off in a rage.</p>
+
+<p>We were still discussing these encounters with Rash&icirc;d when there
+arrived a vastly more imposing personage&mdash;no other than the headman of
+the village, the correct Sheykh Mustafa, who had heard, he said, of
+the infamous attempts which had been made to levy blackmail on us, and
+came now in all haste to tell us of the indignation and disgust which
+such dishonesty towards foreigners aroused in him. He could assure us
+that the dog was really his; and he was glad that we had shot the
+creature, since to shoot it gave us pleasure. His one desire was that
+we should enjoy ourselves. Since our delight was in the slaughter of
+domestic animals, he proposed to bring his mare&mdash;of the best blood of
+the desert&mdash;round for us to shoot.</p>
+
+<p>We felt exceedingly ashamed, and muttered what we could by way of an
+apology. But the sheykh would not accept it from us. Gravely smiling,
+and stroking his grey beard, he said: 'Nay, do what <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>pleases you. God
+knows, your pleasure is a law to us. Nay, speak the word, and almost
+(God forgive me!) I would bring my little son for you to shoot. So
+unlimited is my regard for men so much above the common rules of this
+our county, and who are protected in their every fancy by the Powers
+of Europe.'</p>
+
+<p>His flattery dejected us for many days.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XV<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>TIGERS</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The fell&acirc;h&icirc;n who came to gossip in the winter evenings round our lamp
+and stove assured us there were tigers in the neighbouring mountain.
+We, of course, did not accept the statement literally, but our English
+friend possessed the killing instinct, and held that any feline
+creatures which could masquerade in popular report as tigers would
+afford him better sport than he had yet enjoyed in Syria. So when the
+settled weather came we went to look for them.</p>
+
+<p>For my part I take pleasure in long expeditions with a gun, though
+nothing in the way of slaughter come of them. My lack of keenness at
+the proper moment has been the scorn and the despair of native guides
+and hunters. Once, in Egypt, at the inundation of the Nile, I had been
+rowed for miles by eager men, and had lain out an hour upon an islet
+among reeds, only to forget to fire when my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>adherents whispered as
+the duck flew over, because the sun was rising and the desert hills
+were blushing like the rose against a starry sky. I had chased a
+solitary partridge a whole day among the rocks of En-gedi without the
+slightest prospect of success; and in the Jordan valley I had endured
+great hardships in pursuit of wild boar without seeing one. It was the
+lurking in wild places at unusual hours which pleased me, not the
+matching of my strength and skill against the might of beasts. I have
+always been averse to every sort of competition. This I explain that
+all may know that, though I sallied forth with glee in search of
+savage creatures, it was not to kill them.</p>
+
+<p>We set out from our village on a fine spring morning, attended by
+Rash&icirc;d, my servant, and a famous hunter of the district named
+Muhammad, also two mules, which carried all things necessary for our
+camping out, and were in charge of my friend's cook, Am&icirc;n by name. We
+rode into the mountains, making for the central range of barren
+heights, which had the hue and something of the contour of a lion's
+back. At length we reached a village at the foot of this commanding
+range, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>asked for tigers. We were told that they were farther on.
+A man came with us to a point of vantage whence he was able to point
+out the very place&mdash;a crag in the far distance floating in a haze of
+heat. After riding for a day and a half we came right under it, and at
+a village near its base renewed inquiry. 'Oh,' we were told, 'the
+tigers are much farther on. You see that eminence?' Again a mountain
+afar off was indicated. At the next village we encamped, for night
+drew near. The people came out to inspect us, and we asked them for
+the tigers.</p>
+
+<p>'Alas!' they cried. 'It is not here that you must seek them. By Allah,
+you are going in the wrong direction. Behold that distant peak!'</p>
+
+<p>And they pointed to the place from which we had originally started.</p>
+
+<p>Our English friend was much annoyed, Rash&icirc;d and the shik&acirc;ri and the
+cook laughed heartily. No one, however, was for going back. Upon the
+following day our friend destroyed a jackal and two conies, which
+consoled him somewhat in the dearth of tigers, and we rode forward
+resolutely, asking our question at each village as we went along.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span>Everywhere we were assured that there were really tigers in the
+mountain, and from some of the villages young sportsmen who owned guns
+insisted upon joining our excursion, which showed that they themselves
+believed such game existed. But their adherence, though it gave us
+hope, was tiresome, for they smoked our cigarettes and ate our food.</p>
+
+<p>At last, towards sunset on the seventh evening of our expedition, we
+saw a wretched-looking village on the heights with no trees near it,
+and only meagre strips of cultivation on little terraces, like ledges,
+of the slope below.</p>
+
+<p>Our friend had just been telling me that he was weary of this
+wild-goose chase, with all the rascals upon earth adhering to us. He
+did not now believe that there were tigers in the mountain, nor did I.
+And we had quite agreed to start for home upon the morrow, when the
+people of that miserable village galloped down to greet us with
+delighted shouts, as if they had been waiting for us all their lives.</p>
+
+<p>'What is your will?' inquired the elders of the place, obsequiously.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>'Tigers,' was our reply. 'Say, O old man, are there any tigers in your
+neighbourhood?'</p>
+
+<p>The old man flung up both his hands to heaven, and his face became
+transfigured as in ecstasy. He shouted: 'Is it tigers you desire?
+This, then, is the place where you will dwell content. Tigers? I
+should think so! Tigers everywhere!'</p>
+
+<p>The elders pointed confidently to the heights, and men and women&mdash;even
+children&mdash;told us: 'Aye, by Allah! Hundreds&mdash;thousands of them; not
+just one or two. As many as the most capacious man could possibly
+devour in forty years.'</p>
+
+<p>'It looks as if we'd happened right at last,' our friend said, smiling
+for the first time in three days.</p>
+
+<p>We pitched our tent upon the village threshing-floor, the only flat
+place, except roofs of houses, within sight. The village elders dined
+with us, and stayed till nearly midnight, telling us about the tigers
+and the way to catch them. Some of the stories they related were
+incredible, but not much more so than is usual in that kind of
+narrative. It seemed unnecessary for one old man to warn us gravely on
+no account to take them by their tails.</p>
+
+<p>'For snakes it is the proper way,' he said <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>sagaciously, 'since snakes
+can only double half their length. But tigers double their whole
+length, and they object to it. To every creature its own proper
+treatment.'</p>
+
+<p>But there was no doubt of the sincerity of our instructors, nor of
+their eagerness to be of use to us in any way. Next morning, when we
+started out, the headman came with us some distance, on purpose to
+instruct the guide he had assigned to us, a stupid-looking youth, who
+seemed afraid. He told him: 'Try first over there among the boulders,
+and when you have exhausted that resort, go down to the ravine, and
+thence beat upwards to the mountain-top. Please God, your Honours will
+return with half a hundred of those tigers which devour our crops.'</p>
+
+<p>Thus sped with hope, we set out in good spirits, expecting not a bag
+of fifty tigers, to speak truly, but the final settlement of a dispute
+which had long raged among us, as to what those famous tigers really
+were. Rash&icirc;d would have it they were leopards, I said lynxes, and our
+English friend, in moments of depression, thought of polecats. But,
+though we scoured the mountain all that day, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>advancing with the
+utmost caution and in open order, as our guide enjoined, we saw no
+creature of the feline tribe. Lizards, basking motionless upon the
+rocks, slid off like lightning when aware of our approach. Two
+splendid eagles from an eyrie on the crags above hovered and wheeled,
+observing us, their shadows like two moving spots of ink upon the
+mountain-side. A drowsy owl was put up from a cave, and one of our
+adherents swore he heard a partridge calling. No other living creature
+larger than a beetle did we come across that day.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the camp at evening, out of temper, we were met by all
+the village, headed by the sheykh, who loudly hoped that we had had
+good sport, and brought home many tigers to provide a feast. When he
+heard that we had not so much as seen a single one he fell upon the
+luckless youth who had been told off to conduct us, and would have
+slain him, I believe, had we not intervened.</p>
+
+<p>'Didst seek in all the haunts whereof I told thee? Well I know thou
+didst not, since they saw no tiger! Behold our faces blackened through
+thy sloth and folly, O abandoned beast!'</p>
+
+<p>Restrained by force by two of our adherents, the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>sheykh spat
+venomously at the weeping guide, who swore by Allah that he had obeyed
+instructions to the letter.</p>
+
+<p>Our English friend was much too angry to talk Arabic. He bade me tell
+the sheykh he was a liar, and that the country was as bare of tigers
+as his soul of truth. Some of our fell&acirc;h adherents seconded my speech.
+The sheykh appeared amazed and greatly horrified.</p>
+
+<p>'There are tigers,' he assured us, 'naturally! All that you desire.'</p>
+
+<p>'Then go and find them for us!' said our friend, vindictively.</p>
+
+<p>'Upon my head,' replied the complaisant old man, laying his right hand
+on his turban reverently. 'To hear is to obey.'</p>
+
+<p>We regarded this reply as mere politeness, the affair as ended. What
+was our surprise next morning to see the sheykh and all the able men,
+accompanied by many children, set off up the mountain armed with
+staves and scimitars, and all the antique armament the village
+boasted! It had been our purpose to depart that day, but we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>remained
+to watch the outcome of that wondrous hunting.</p>
+
+<p>The villagers spread out and 'beat' the mountain. All day long we
+heard their shouts far off among the upper heights. If any tiger had
+been there they must assuredly have roused him. But they returned at
+evening empty-handed, and as truly crestfallen as if they had indeed
+expected to bring home a bag of fifty tigers. One man presented me
+with a dead owl&mdash;the same, I think, which we had startled on the day
+before, as if to show that their display had not been quite in vain.</p>
+
+<p>'No tigers!' sighed the sheykh, as though his heart were broken. 'What
+can have caused them all to go away? Unhappy day!' A lamentable wail
+went up from the whole crowd. 'A grievous disappointment, but the
+world is thus. But,' he added, with a sudden brightening, 'if your
+Honours will but condescend to stay a week or two, no doubt they will
+return.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XVI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>PRIDE AND A FALL</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>There was to be a grand fantasia at the castle of the greatest of
+Druze sheykhs in honour of a visit from the English Consul-General in
+Syria; and as an Englishman I was invited to be there. It was a
+journey of a day and a half. Upon the second morning Rash&icirc;d and I had
+not gone far ere we fell in with other horsemen wending in the same
+direction as ourselves, well mounted and in holiday attire. All
+greeted us politely, but we kept apart, because they nearly all rode
+mares while we rode stallions&mdash;a fruitful source of trouble and a
+cause of war.</p>
+
+<p>At length a young man mounted on a stallion overtook us with most
+cordial greetings. I had met him often. He was the son of a rich
+landowner in a neighbouring valley, and, I think, the most beautiful
+human creature I ever saw. That day he was particularly good to look
+at, his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>complexion of clear olive slightly flushed, his violet eyes
+beneath their long dark lashes dancing, his perfect white teeth
+gleaming with excitement and delight. He wore a cloak, broad striped,
+of white and crimson, a white frilled shirt of lawn showing above a
+vest of crimson velvet, fawn-coloured baggy trousers, and soft
+sheepskin boots. A snow-white turban crowned his whole appearance. His
+horse was thoroughbred and young, and he controlled its ceaseless
+dance to admiration. He told me that the stallion was his own, an
+uncle's gift, and quite the best in all the mountains; although mine,
+he added out of mere politeness, was undoubtedly a pearl of breeding
+and high spirit. He hoped with such a steed to gain renown in that
+day's horsemanship, and, if it might be, win the notice of the
+Consul-General and his lady.</p>
+
+<p>'My father wished me to take out another horse,' he said; 'but I love
+this one, and am used to all his ways. I could not do myself full
+justice on another, nor would Rustem do his best for any other rider.'</p>
+
+<p>He proceeded to discuss the horses which we saw before us on the road,
+pointing out in each of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>them some defect, and exclaiming: 'I shall
+excel them all, in sh' Allah! Does not your Honour also think my horse
+the best?'</p>
+
+<p>I assured him that I did indeed, and all my wishes were for his
+success, 'because,' said I, 'I know and like you, and I do not know
+the others.'</p>
+
+<p>'But some thou knowest for a certainty, for all the Mountain will be
+there. Come, let me name them to thee one by one.' And some of those
+he named were certainly well known to me.</p>
+
+<p>'When thou seest Hasan, son of Ali, nicely mounted, wilt thou not
+think he is the better man?'</p>
+
+<p>'No, no, by Allah!' I disclaimed such fickleness. 'Be sure that if
+good wishes can ensure success, all mine are with thee in to-day's
+event.'</p>
+
+<p>'Allah increase thy wealth!' he cried in joy, as if I had bestowed on
+him a gift of price.</p>
+
+<p>There was a crowd of many colours on the well-made road which wanders
+up through orchards to the village and ends on the meyd&acirc;n before the
+castle gate. There the crowd halted, making fast their horses to the
+many rings and tie-holes which were in the walls. Rash&icirc;d took charge
+of my horse and his own, while I went on up steps on to a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>higher
+platform intersected by a stream of ice-cold water plunging down into
+the valley in a fine cascade whose spray and murmur cooled the air.
+That rush of water was the greatest luxury in such a land, and the
+lord of the castle took much pride in its contrivance.</p>
+
+<p>I went up to a door where soldiers and domestics lounged, but was
+informed: 'Our lord is out of doors.' A soldier pointed to a bunch of
+trees above the waterfall and overlooking the meyd&acirc;n, where many
+notables in black frock coat and fez sat out on chairs. He ran on to
+announce my coming. I was soon a member of the formal group, replying
+to the usual compliments and kind inquiries.</p>
+
+<p>Coffee was handed round. Then came a tray of different kinds of
+sherbet, then a tray of eatables. The chiefs around me talked of
+harvests and the price of land, but, most of all, of horses, since it
+was a horsey day. The screaming of a stallion came persistently from
+the meyd&acirc;n&mdash;a naughty screaming which foreboded mischief. I recognised
+the voice. The culprit was my own Sheyt&acirc;n. The screams were so
+disturbing, so indecent, that several of the great ones round me
+frowned and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>asked: 'Whose horse is that?' in accents of displeasure.
+I was ashamed to own him.</p>
+
+<p>At length the lord of the castle called a servant to his side and
+whispered, pointing with his hand in the direction whence the screams
+proceeded. The servant hurried off, but presently returned and
+whispered something in his master's ear. His master looked at me and
+nodded gravely. He then addressed me in a deprecating tone, remarking:
+'Your Honour's horse is too high-spirited; the crowd excites him. Will
+you allow him to be tethered in some other place?'</p>
+
+<p>From the excessive smoothness of his manner I could guess that, had I
+been a native of the land, he would have told me to remove the vicious
+brute and myself likewise. I rose at once to go and see to it.</p>
+
+<p>'Pray do not give yourself the trouble!' he exclaimed, distressed.</p>
+
+<p>The servant went along with me, and, when we got to the meyd&acirc;n, Rash&icirc;d
+came running. Sheyt&acirc;n was then indeed a terrifying sight, with
+streaming tail, mane bristling, and a wicked bloodshot eye, tearing at
+his head-rope, one minute pawing at the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span>wall as if to climb it, the
+next kicking wildly with his head down. I know little of horses in
+general, but I knew that particular horse, and he knew me. I went up
+quietly and talked to him, then loosed the rope and led Sheyt&acirc;n away
+without much difficulty, Rash&icirc;d meanwhile explaining to the servant of
+the house that no one else could possibly have done it. We tied him at
+the further end of the meyd&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>Then I went back on to the terrace, where the notables had risen and
+were looking at the youths who were to take part in the fantasia,
+among them my companion of the road, the young Sheykh Abdul Hamid.
+These were now on the parade-ground with their horses. My neighbour in
+the group of great ones said, politely:</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour should go with them; it is only proper, since their going
+is to compliment the representative of England. And you are, I see, a
+very skilful cavalier. The way you quieted that horse of yours was
+wonderful. We have all been talking of it. Ride with them!'</p>
+
+<p>I begged to be excused. The essence of the fantasia is to show off
+one's own prowess and one's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>horse's paces while careering madly in a
+widish circle round some given object&mdash;an open carriage with some
+great one in it, or a bridal pair&mdash;taking no note of obstacles,
+dashing over rocks and gulleys and down breakneck slopes, loading and
+firing off a gun at intervals, in full career. I had tried the feeling
+of it once at a friend's wedding, and had been far from happy, though
+my horse enjoyed the romp and often tried to start it afterwards when
+there was no occasion. Remembering Abdul Hamid and his desire for
+praise that day, I said:</p>
+
+<p>'There is only one good horseman here&mdash;Abdul Hamid, the son of the
+Sheykh Mustafa. All the rest of us, compared with him, are mere
+pedestrians.'</p>
+
+<p>I pointed out the youth in question to my neighbour, who was a man of
+power in the mountains, and he praised the beauty of his form on
+horseback.</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, right is with thee,' he assented. 'There is none but he.'</p>
+
+<p>Away they went&mdash;Jinbl&acirc;ts, Talh&ucirc;ks, and Abdul Meliks&mdash;all in clean
+white turbans, with coloured cloaks a-stream upon the breeze, on
+horses gorgeously caparisoned. We waited half an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>hour&mdash;in silence, as
+it seemed; and then we heard the noise of their return, the shouts,
+the firing. I swear I saw a horse and man surmount a housetop in the
+village and then leap down upon the other side. At last, with yells
+and reckless gunshots and a whirl of dust, the crowd of horsemen came
+full tilt on the meyd&acirc;n. Their leader&mdash;in appearance a mad angel&mdash;was
+my friend, Abdul Hamid. Suddenly he drew his rein, flinging the steed
+right back upon his haunches. In so doing, looking up at me with a
+triumphant smile, he somehow missed his balance and pitched clear over
+his horse's head, just at the very moment when a carriage and pair
+containing the beaming Consul-General and his lady, with a glorious
+Caww&acirc;s upon the box, arrived upon the scene. I ran to help him, but
+another person was before me. A tall old man, whose garb bespoke him
+an initiated Druze, rushed out among the horses and the dust and beat
+the wretched lad about the shoulders, heaping curses on that lovely
+head for bringing shame upon an honoured house before such company. It
+was the lad's own father, the Sheykh Mustafa. I helped to drag the old
+man off, and would have gone on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span>to console the son; but just then I
+beheld Sheyt&acirc;n approaching with a broken head-rope. I contrived to
+catch him and to mount without attending to the girths; and, once on
+horseback, I was glad to be there; for quite fifty of the tethered
+steeds had broken loose in the excitement, and were rushing here and
+there and fighting in a most alarming way. I have always had a dread
+of horse-fights, and this was not a single fight; it was a m&ecirc;l&eacute;e,
+fresh horses every minute breaking loose to join it. Right in my way
+two angry stallions rose up, boxing one another like the lion and the
+unicorn, and a little boy of ten or thereabouts ran in between and,
+jumping, caught their head-ropes.</p>
+
+<p>I escaped at last and rode down through the village to the bottom of
+the valley, where a grove of walnut trees cast pleasant shade beside a
+stream. There Rash&icirc;d found me later in the day. He told me that my
+disappearance had caused consternation and alarm, the Consul-General
+and his lady having asked for me. Bidding him remain with the two
+horses, I went back on foot to the castle, where I stayed only the
+time necessary to pay my respects.</p>
+
+<p>As I was returning towards the valley, a litter <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>borne between two
+mules was leaving the meyd&acirc;n. Beside it walked the stern Sheykh
+Mustafa, and in it, I had little doubt, reclined the beautiful Abdul
+Hamid.</p>
+
+<p>I asked the serving-man who led the foremost mule if his young lord
+was seriously hurt. He answered:</p>
+
+<p>'Yes; for he has broken his elbow and his shoulder and his
+collar-bone. But that is nothing, since he has disgraced our house.'</p>
+
+<p>A bitter wail of 'Woe the day!' came from within the palanquin.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XVII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>TRAGEDY</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The sun was sinking down over the sea, the mountain wall with all its
+clefts and promontories wore a cloak of many colours, when we saw
+before us on a rock a ruined tower. We were looking for some human
+habitation where we might get food and shelter for the night; but we
+should have passed by that building, taking it to be deserted, had not
+we espied a woman's figure sitting out before it in the evening light.</p>
+
+<p>Experience of late had taught us to shun villages, belonging
+thereabouts to a peculiar sect, whose members made a virtue of
+inhospitality. At noon that day, when wishing to buy food, we had been
+met with such amazing insults that Rash&icirc;d, my henchman, had not yet
+recovered from his indignation, and still brooded on revenge. On
+seeing that the ruined tower had occupants, he said:</p>
+
+<p>'If these refuse us, we will force an entrance <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>mercilessly; for see,
+they dwell alone, with none to help them.'</p>
+
+<p>He rode before me towards the tower, with shoulders squared and whip
+upraised.</p>
+
+<p>It surprised me that the woman sitting out before the door appeared
+indifferent to his approach, until, upon a closer view, I saw that she
+was old and blind. She must, I thought, be deaf as well, since she had
+failed to move at sound of hoof beats; which sound brought out an aged
+man, who shattered Rash&icirc;d's plan of vengeance by exclaiming:
+'Itfaddal&ucirc;! (Perform a kindness!' that is, 'Enter!').</p>
+
+<p>'It is thou who doest kindness,' I replied, by rote. 'We are thy
+suppliants for food and rest this night.'</p>
+
+<p>'All mine is thine,' the old man answered, coming to hold my horse's
+head, while I dismounted. His wrinkled face was moulded to a patient,
+sad expression, which became more noticeable when he smiled; and he
+was always smiling.</p>
+
+<p>I went into the tower and down a flight of much-worn steps, which
+ended in a heap of fallen masonry.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span>'Deign to proceed,' called out the tenant from behind me; when,
+climbing over the obstruction, I found myself in a large room, of
+which the only furniture consisted in a heap of bedding and some
+cooking things. Rather to my surprise the place was clean. The old man
+flung himself upon the ground and blew upon the mass of charcoal in a
+brazier, and presently a smell of coffee stewing filled the dungeon;
+for such it doubtless had been in the past, its only window being high
+above our heads, yet only just above the level of the rock, as I
+discovered when I went to seek Rash&icirc;d, who, by our host's direction,
+had bestowed the horses in a cavern by the sea. The blind old woman
+still sat out before the door.</p>
+
+<p>I walked all round the tower and noticed small fields neatly fenced
+below it on the landward side, and a few hobbled goats upon a strip of
+herbage near the shore; which, with some fishing-nets spread out upon
+the rocks to dry, informed me how our host obtained a livelihood.</p>
+
+<p>As I went back towards the door, I met Rash&icirc;d bringing our saddlebags.
+He nodded to the woman, who still sat there motionless, and told me:
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>'She is mad, the poor old creature&mdash;but not dangerous. Fear nothing.
+They are quite good people. It is strange, but he informs me she is
+not his mother nor his wife, nor anyone by birth allied to him. And
+yet he waits upon her, helpless as she is.'</p>
+
+<p>Just then, the master of the tower appeared, and, going to the woman,
+took her hand and raised her. 'Itfaddal&ucirc;!' he said, with just the same
+polite alacrity with which he welcomed us on our arrival, as if she,
+too, had been an honoured guest. We all went down the broken steps
+into the dungeon. A meal of fish and bread was set before us. The
+woman took her food apart. The master of the house did not sit down
+till she was satisfied; and, after supper, he set out a bed for her,
+and then washed out the vessels, before he came again and sat with us.
+By that time the old woman was asleep. Two lighted wicks, passed
+through a piece of cork which floated in a bowl of oil and water,
+roused the shadows of the vault. A sudden outcry at the far end of the
+room made us both jump.</p>
+
+<p>'Fear nothing!' said our entertainer. 'She is dreaming. Ah, poor lady!
+Our Lord repay her <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>goodness in the next life for all the evil she has
+borne in this!'</p>
+
+<p>'Is it permissible to ask to hear her story?' said Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>The old man looked at me with a reluctant smile, as who should say:
+'It is a sad tale. Would you really care to hear it?'</p>
+
+<p>I nodded gravely, and, with a deep sigh, he began:</p>
+
+<p>'Many years ago&mdash;how many it is now impossible for me to say, for,
+dwelling here, I have lost count of time&mdash;a certain chieftain of the
+desert Arabs had a son who loved the daughter of his father's enemy.
+There was no intercourse between the houses, but the young prince of
+whom I speak contrived to see the maiden and to meet her stealthily,
+even riding in among the dwellings of her people at risk of his own
+life and mine; for I must tell you that I am his foster-brother,
+though not by blood a scion of the desert, and so I served him, as was
+usual with us, in the quality of an esquire.</p>
+
+<p>'Both tribes were of those Arabs which have villages for their
+headquarters, without renouncing <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>the old life of war and wandering.
+Our village was upon the borders of the Belka, and hers far north
+towards the Hauran. In those days there were no Turkish military posts
+beyond the Jordan. The feuds and customs of the tribes were then the
+only law; though now, they tell me, that that country is made safe for
+travel.</p>
+
+<p>'There was no means to bridge the gulf which custom fixed between the
+lovers; and so my foster-brother, being mad with longing for the maid,
+decided to abduct her and escape into the settled country. I, loving
+him, applauded all his schemes. The princess Am&icirc;neh&mdash;for she was the
+daughter of a sovereign chief&mdash;was of a spirit equal to his own. She
+rode out from her father's town by night upon the best mare of the
+tribe with but one girl attendant. My lord and I were waiting by a
+certain well. And then we rode, well knowing that both tribes would
+hunt us, towards the wil&acirc;yet, where there was law and Turkish power to
+protect us. The princess Am&icirc;neh lacked a man's endurance, and her
+woman suffered greatly from fatigue. Their weakness had to be
+considered, and there came a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>time when it was evident that they could
+go no further without rest.</p>
+
+<p>'We were then within a short day's journey of the nearest Government
+post, attaining which we should have been in safety. We took refuge in
+a ruined sheepcote. I was keeping the look-out while all the others
+slept, when I noticed a small cloud of dust uprising in the distance.
+I roused my lord, and told him: "The pursuers come." He looked upon
+the princess and her maiden: they lay fast asleep, exhausted by
+fatigue.</p>
+
+<p>'"Let be," he said. "There is no hope for us in flight. Lie low.
+Perhaps they will pass by without perceiving us."</p>
+
+<p>'And so they might have done, God knows, had not our horses neighed,
+winding the other horses.'</p>
+
+<p>The old man wrung his hands, then hid his eyes with them.</p>
+
+<p>'Never, never can I tell the details of what followed. We fought, and
+the princess fought beside us, snatching a scimitar which I was
+wearing from my side. Her boldness helped us somewhat to delay the
+end, for our assailants were her father's people, and they feared to
+hurt her. But the end <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>came; it was from the first inevitable. I was
+lying helpless on the ground, wounded, but fully conscious, when they
+slew my lord. At once they hewed his body into fragments, each of
+which was soon exalted on a spear. The princess, wounded in the face,
+and pinioned, witnessed that. Her damsel lay inanimate, and at the
+time I thought her dead. She was my promised bride. Then the Emir
+approached with a great spear&mdash;as I suppose, to kill his daughter, but
+just then there were loud shouts, and then another battle, in which I
+heard the war-cry of our tribe. The father of my lord, pursuing also
+with intent to punish us, had come upon his ancient enemy at unawares.
+He won the day. The other Arabs broke and fled. The noblest of our
+braves pursued them; but several of the lewder sort remained behind to
+torture and dishonour my unhappy lady. I tried to rise and rescue her,
+but, with the effort, my spirit left my body, and I lay as dead&mdash;the
+praise to Allah!&mdash;which is the reason why I am alive to-day.</p>
+
+<p>'So great a fight could not take place so near the guarded country
+without coming to the knowledge of the Government. Ten Turkish
+soldiers, armed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>with carbines, and an ombashi, coming to the spot
+next day, discovered us, and carried the survivors to a place of
+safety. The princess was then, as you yourselves have seen her, except
+that she was young and now is old. Her damsel had survived the fight
+without much hurt, by God's protection, having lain upon the ground so
+still that she was left for dead. When I recovered from my wounds, I
+married her.</p>
+
+<p>'So tragic was our tale that all men pitied us. The Governor himself
+protected the princess, and placed her with the women of his
+household. But she could not be happy in the city, in that kind of
+life; her soul grew restless, pining. My wife, who visited her every
+day, was grieved for her; and when I found that it was as she said, I
+went and asked the Governor's permission to support our lady.
+Perceiving that she was not happy in his house, he yielded; and we
+three wandered through the settled country for long months, the people
+showing kindness to us through compassion, for our tale was known. At
+last we reached this ruin by the sea, which pleased our lady because,
+my wife believed, the mountains are so like a wall raised <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>up between
+her and the country of her grief. That must be thirty years ago; but
+she has never wandered since.</p>
+
+<p>'My wife died and I buried her beside the shore; for years I have
+performed her duties to our lady. The people of these parts are
+wicked, but they let us be, because they think that we are under some
+enchantment. My prayer is always that I may survive my lady, for how
+could she, poor creature, fare alone? So far, we have been very
+fortunate, praise be to Allah!'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d was loud in his expressions of amazement at the story, his mind
+intent upon the central tragedy. He said no word of praise or wonder
+at our host's self-sacrifice. That he accepted, as a thing of course.
+This attitude of his, which I observed, prevented me from uttering the
+words of pity and condolence which were on my tongue; and I am glad
+those words were never uttered, for they were impertinent, and would
+have seemed absurd to Orientals, who have not our sentiment.</p>
+
+<p>So, after the conclusion of the tale, we went to bed.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XVIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>BASTIRMA</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>The moon began to shine upon the gardens of Damascus, casting pale
+shadows, though the daylight had not quite departed, and the sky
+behind the trees to westward was still green. We were sitting out on
+stools under the walnut trees, beside a stream which made a pleasant
+murmur. The air was laden with the scent of unseen roses. Behind us
+was a little tavern with a lantern lighted in its entrance arch, a
+solitary yellow eye amid the twilight.</p>
+
+<p>We were the centre of a crowd, as usual when Suleym&acirc;n was with us. His
+voice attracted people like a drum, and the matter of his talk had
+power to hold them. It was a weighty voice of studied modulations,
+which promised wisdom on the brink of laughter. He generally chose
+some moral or religious subject for discourse, and illustrated it by
+what we call 'naw&acirc;dir' (rare things) selected <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>from his vast
+experience of life. By his own account he had journeyed to the world's
+rim, and had associated not alone with men, but also with jinn and
+ghouls. On the other hand, he had been to Europe several times, and
+knew the streets of Paris and of London. Somehow, one never doubted
+any of his stories while he was telling them, the accents of his voice
+had such conviction. One was conscious that his tales&mdash;even the most
+extravagant&mdash;were true in some mysterious, intrinsic way. This time he
+chose to speak to us of guilt and innocence, of good and evil works,
+and their effect on man's salvation. He aired the theory, which roused
+approving murmurs in the listening circle, that to have a good
+intention was the chief desideratum for every son of Adam on his
+journey through the world, no matter though his works might turn out
+bad or unsuccessful.</p>
+
+<p>'To lie with good intention is better than to tell the truth with bad
+intention,' he declared.</p>
+
+<p>'To lie is the salt of a man; the shame is to him who believes,' put
+in Rash&icirc;d, my servant, who was great at proverbs.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n paid no heed to the interruption.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span>'A sin committed thoughtlessly,' said he, 'is light compared with one
+which thou hast hatched and planned.'</p>
+
+<p>'Nay, O beloved, a sin is a sin, appointed so by the Most High; and
+the duty of a man is to avoid it. The hurt to man's salvation is the
+same, however he approach it,' said an old man in the audience. 'If I
+cut my hand, is the wound less, is it not rather likely to be
+more&mdash;for being thoughtless?'</p>
+
+<p>There was a murmur of applause as all eyes turned on this objector,
+whose likeness could not be distinguished in the gloaming.</p>
+
+<p>I spoke in approbation of the view expressed, and the old man,
+emboldened, laughed:</p>
+
+<p>'To lie is bad, to kill is bad, to steal is bad. Our Lord destroy this
+rogue of an Intention, which plain men cannot catch nor understand!'</p>
+
+<p>'Nay, listen!' Suleym&acirc;n became persuasive and profoundly earnest, as
+was his manner always under opposition. 'Thou hast not altogether
+caught my meaning. I say a man should trust in the Most High, not
+think too much beforehand of his ways. By thinking beforehand, he may
+form <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>a bad intention, since man's thoughts are naturally fallible.
+Let him think afterwards, thus he will learn to shun such snares in
+future, and by repentance place a good work to his credit. Men learn
+wisdom from their sins, not from their righteous deeds. And the
+consciousness of sin, the knowledge that they may at any moment fall
+into it, preserves them from the arrogance of goodness.'</p>
+
+<p>'There may be some small grain of sense in what thou sayest,' chuckled
+the objector, 'but not enough to make sin righteous, nor yet to
+abrogate the sacred law.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n pursued unheeding: 'I have a rare thing, which will show you
+what I mean.</p>
+
+<p>'A new judge had been appointed to the Holy City. He was departing
+from Stamb&ucirc;l by ship to take up his appointment. On the quay, a Jew of
+his acquaintance came to him with reverence, and begged him kindly to
+convey a basket of bastirma to his (the Jew's) son at the Holy City,
+which the Jews in their own language call Jerusalem. You all know what
+bastirma is. It is dried and salted mutton&mdash;very tasty&mdash;a dish of
+which the Turks are most inordinately fond. The Cadi graciously
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>consented, bidding his major-domo take the basket, and bestow it
+carefully among the things. The Jew departed. The Cadi and his party
+journeyed till they reached their destination, where, upon arrival,
+they discovered a young Jew inquiring earnestly about a basket of
+bastirma. The Cadi had forgotten its existence. "Ah, to be sure!" he
+cried. "I gave it my major-domo for safe keeping."</p>
+
+<p>'He called that servant, and commanded him to give the basket of
+bastirma to the Jew there waiting. The major-domo bowed his head,
+folded his hands upon his breast, and said: "I ask forgiveness, O my
+lord. The basket still remains, but the bastirma was so excellent
+that, having tasted but a piece of it, I wanted more, so that, in
+fact, I ate it all upon the journey. I wish to pay the price of it to
+this young Jew."</p>
+
+<p>'The Cadi thought his servant's offer fair enough, but the young Jew
+went mad. Flying at the throat of the major-domo, he flung him to the
+ground, and tried to tear the soul out of his body with his teeth and
+nails. The Cadi called upon the bystanders for help. The Jew was
+dragged <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>with difficulty from his victim. Then the Cadi asked:</p>
+
+<p>'"Why, pray, did you attack my servant in that savage way?"</p>
+
+<p>'"That man," said the Jew, still white with rage, and pointing with
+his tallow finger at the major-domo, who had risen from the
+ground&mdash;"that man contains my grandfather."</p>
+
+<p>'"What words are these? Explain yourself!" the Cadi cried.</p>
+
+<p>'"Three weeks ago, O gracious Excellency, my grandfather died in
+Stamb&ucirc;l. It had ever been his dearest wish to be buried in the Holy
+City, near the scene of judgment; and that wish of his was law on us
+his offspring. But how could we fulfil it? How, I ask? No skipper,
+whether Nazarene or Muslim, would receive a dead Jew on his ship for
+less than the corpse-weight in gold. And we are poor. To take him
+overland was quite impossible. And so my father and my mother in
+Stamb&ucirc;l cured his dead limbs, and made of them bastirma, and sent him
+hither in the way thou knowest. It follows that thy servant has
+committed a most dreadful crime. Let him be killed, I pray, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>and
+buried in the tomb we have prepared, that so my grandfather's great
+wish may be fulfilled."</p>
+
+<p>'The major-domo was more dead than living as he heard that story. He
+rent his clothes and fell down on the ground insensible.</p>
+
+<p>'The Cadi answered the young Jew with wisdom, saying: "Thou art
+entitled to the price of one basket of bastirma, and no more, from
+this my servant; but he, on his side, has a right to all thou ownest.
+What wealth can ever compensate him for the haunting fear that on the
+Last Day he may rise inextricably mingled with thy worthy grandfather?
+Go, I say, and never venture to approach him any more, or I shall
+surely act upon this judgment and denude thee quite." The
+major-domo&mdash;'</p>
+
+<p>Cries of 'Misk&icirc;n! Misk&icirc;n!' (poor fellow!) interrupted the narrative.</p>
+
+<p>One said: 'I once ate pig's flesh by mistake, but this man's plight is
+much more horrible.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n's opponent cried: 'It was a judgment on him, evidently, for
+his theft of the bastirma. Say, what became of him thereafter, O
+narrator?'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>'The major-domo, who, till then, had been a precious rogue&mdash;I knew him
+intimately from a child, and so can vouch for it&mdash;became from that day
+forth the saintliest of men. He thought about his crime and mourned
+for it, and deemed himself an unclean beast until he died&mdash;may God
+have mercy on him&mdash;and was buried in the Holy City as the Jew desired.
+He thought of nothing but good deeds, yet without seeking merit,
+knowing that nothing he could do would ever cleanse him. He became the
+humblest and the best of men, who had before been arrogant and very
+wicked. Therefore I say that it is well for men to think of their sins
+after rather than before committing them.'</p>
+
+<p>'But the intention!&mdash;What of the intention, O my master? His intention
+was not good. He stole!'</p>
+
+<p>'His intention went no further than a basket of bastirma. The Jew was
+only an unpleasant accident, in respect whereof no guilt attached to
+him. The case is clear, and yet, although I used to argue with him on
+the subject, I never could contrive to make him see it. One thing is
+certain, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span>and will prove to you the worth of good intentions. He only
+meant to eat a basket of bastirma; therefore he felt great remorse
+when he devoured a Jew, and so became a saint for Paradise. Had he
+intended to devour a Jew he could not possibly have felt such great
+remorse. What say you?'</p>
+
+<p>And everyone agreed that it was so.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XIX<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE ARTIST-DRAGOMAN</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Of Suleym&acirc;n in his capacity of dragoman I saw little but heard much
+both from himself and others. The English residents in Palestine and
+Syria&mdash;those who knew of him&mdash;regarded him as but a doubtful
+character, if one may judge from their repeated warnings to me not to
+trust him out of sight. His wisdom and his independent way of airing
+it did not please everybody as they did me; and reverence in dealing
+with a fellow-man was not his strong point. By travellers, I gather
+from innumerable testimonials which he showed me, he was either much
+beloved or the reverse, though none could say he did not know his
+business.</p>
+
+<p>His English, though voluminous and comprehensive, was sometimes
+strange to native English ears. He had read the Bible in a German
+mission school, and spoke of 'Billiam's donkey' and 'the mighty
+Simson' where we should speak of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>Balaam's ass and Samson. He called
+the goatskins used for carrying water 'beastly skins,' and sometimes
+strengthened a mild sentence with an expletive.</p>
+
+<p>I do not think he ever went so far in this way as another dragoman
+who, riding out from Haifa one fine morning with an English lady,
+pointed to Mount Carmel and observed:</p>
+
+<p>'Bloody fine hill, madam!'</p>
+
+<p>He knew how to adapt his language to his audience. But it is curious
+that a man whose speech in Arabic was highly mannered, in English
+should have cultivated solecisms. That he did cultivate them as an
+asset of his stock-in-trade I can affirm, for he would invent absurd
+mistakes and then rehearse them to me, with the question: 'Is that
+funny? Will that make the English laugh?'</p>
+
+<p>For clergymen he kept a special manner and a special store of jokes.
+When leading such through Palestine he always had a Bible up before
+him on the saddle; and every night would join them after dinner and
+preach a sermon on the subject of the next day's journey. This he
+would make as comical as possible for their amusement, for clergymen,
+he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>often used to say to me, are fond of laughter of a certain kind.</p>
+
+<p>One English parson he bedevilled utterly by telling him the truth&mdash;or
+the accepted legend&mdash;in such a form that it seemed false or mad to
+him.</p>
+
+<p>As they were riding out from Jaffa towards Jerusalem, he pointed to
+the mud-built village of Latr&ucirc;n and said:</p>
+
+<p>'That, sir, is the place where Simpson catch the foxes.'</p>
+
+<p>'Ah?' said the clergyman. 'And who was Simpson?'</p>
+
+<p>'He was a very clever gentleman, and liked a bit of sport.'</p>
+
+<p>'Was he an Englishman?'</p>
+
+<p>'No, sir; he was a Jew. He catch a lot of foxes with some traps; he
+kill them and he take their skins to Jaffa to the tailor, and he tell
+the tailor: "Make me one big skin out of these little ones." The
+tailor make one thundering big fox's skin, big enough for Simpson to
+get inside of it. Then Simpson, he put on that skin one night, and go
+and sit out in the field and make the same noise what the little foxes
+make. The little foxes come <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span>out of their holes to look; they see one
+big fox sitting there, and they not know it's really Simpson. They
+come quite near and Simpson catch hold of their tails and tie their
+tails together. Then they make the noise, and still more foxes come,
+and Simpson catch hold of their tails and tie their tails together,
+till he got hundreds and hundreds.'</p>
+
+<p>'Whatever did he do with them?' inquired the parson.</p>
+
+<p>'He set fire to them.'</p>
+
+<p>'What on earth did he do that for?'</p>
+
+<p>'That, sir, was to annoy his wife's relations.'</p>
+
+<p>'And would you believe it,' added Suleym&acirc;n when he told me the story,
+'that foolish preacher did not know that it is in the Bible. He took
+it all down in his notebook as the exploit of a Jewish traveller. He
+was the Heavy One.'</p>
+
+<p>The last remark was in allusion to an Arabic proverb of which Suleym&acirc;n
+was very fond:</p>
+
+<p>'When the Heavy One alights in the territory of a people there is
+nothing for the inhabitants except departure.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span>Which, in its turn, is an allusion to the following story:</p>
+
+<p>A colony of ducks lived on an island in a river happily until a
+certain day, when the carcase of an ox came drifting down the current
+and stuck upon the forepoint of that island. They tried in vain to
+lift it up or push it off; it was too heavy to be moved an inch by all
+their efforts. They named it in their speech the Heavy One. Its stench
+infected the whole island, and kept on increasing until the hapless
+ducks were forced to emigrate.</p>
+
+<p>Many Heavy Ones fell to the lot of Suleym&acirc;n as dragoman, and he was by
+temperament ill-fitted to endure their neighbourhood. Upon the other
+hand, he sometimes happened on eccentrics who rejoiced his heart. An
+American admiral, on shore in Palestine for two days, asked only one
+thing: to be shown the tree on which Judas Iscariot had hanged
+himself, in order that he might defile it in a natural manner and so
+attest his faith. Suleym&acirc;n was able to conduct him to the very tree,
+and to make the journey occupy exactly the time specified. The
+American was satisfied, and wrote him out a handsome testimonial.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>It must have been a hardship for Suleym&acirc;n&mdash;a man by nature sensitive
+and independent&mdash;to take his orders from some kinds of tourists and
+endure their rudeness. If left alone to manage the whole journey, he
+was&mdash;I have been told, and I can well believe it&mdash;the best guide in
+Syria, devoting all his energies to make the tour illuminating and
+enjoyable; if heckled or distrusted, he grew careless and eventually
+dangerous, intent to play off jokes on people whom he counted enemies.
+One Englishman, with a taste for management but little knowledge of
+the country, and no common sense, he cruelly obeyed in all things,
+with the natural result in loss of time and loss of luggage, sickness
+and discomfort. That was his way of taking vengeance on the Heavy
+Ones.</p>
+
+<p>'And yet the man was happy, having had things his own way, even after
+the most horrid and disastrous journey ever made,' he told me with a
+sigh. 'Some men are asses.'</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon, when I was riding round the bay from Akka towards the
+foot of Carmel, supposing Suleym&acirc;n to be a hundred miles away, I came
+upon a group of tourists by the river Kishon, on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>outskirts of the
+palm grove. They had alighted and were grouped around a dragoman in
+gorgeous raiment, like gulls around a parrot. The native of the land
+was holding forth to them. His voice was richly clerical in
+intonation, which made me notice that his audience consisted solely of
+members of the clergy and their patient women.</p>
+
+<p>'This, ladies and gentlemen,' the rascal was declaiming like a man
+inspired, 'is that ancient riffer, the riffer Kishon. It was here that
+the great Brophet Elijah bring the Brophets of Baal after he catch
+them with that dirty trick which I exblain to you about the sacrifice
+ub there upon that mountain what you see behind you. Elijah he come
+strollin' down, quite habby, to this ancient riffer, singin' one
+little song; and the beoble they lug down those wicked brophets. Then
+Elijah take one big, long knife his uncle gif him and sharben it ubon
+a stone like what I'm doin'. Then he gif a chuckle and he look among
+those brophets; and he see one man he like the look of, nice and fat;
+and he say: "Bring me that man!" They bring that man; Elijah slit his
+throat and throw him in the riffer. Then he say: "Bring his brother!"
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>and they bring his brother, and he slit his throat and throw him in
+the riffer ... till they was <span class="smcap">ALL</span> gone. Then Elijah clean his
+knife down in the earth, and when he'd finished laughin' he put ub a
+brayer.</p>
+
+<p>'That was a glorious massycration, gentlemen!'</p>
+
+<p>The preacher was Suleym&acirc;n, at struggle with the Heavy Ones. He was not
+at all abashed when he caught sight of me.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XX" id="CHAPTER_XX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XX<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>LOVE AND THE PATRIARCH</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>I was staying for some weeks at Howard's Hotel in Jerusalem (Iskender
+Awwad, the dragoman, had transformed himself into the Chevalier
+Alexander Howard, a worthy, if choleric, gentleman, and a good friend
+of mine), and I rode out every day upon a decent pony, which I had
+discovered in the stables at the back of the hotel. One afternoon a
+nephew of the stable-owner, who was something of a blood, proposed
+that we should ride together out towards Bethlehem. His horse was a
+superb and showy stallion, quite beyond his power to manage properly.
+My modest steed was fired to emulation, and, once beyond the outskirts
+of Jerusalem, we tore away. At a corner where the road was narrow
+between rocks, I do not know exactly how, the big horse cannoned into
+mine and overturned him. I pitched headlong on some stones.</p>
+
+<p>My first impression was that I had struck a wet spot in that arid
+wilderness. Then I saw my horse <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span>at a great distance, galloping, and
+heard the nephew of the owner saying that he must pursue it, while I
+must mount his horse and ride on slowly.</p>
+
+<p>'Not half a mile from here, upon that hill,' he said, 'is Katam&ucirc;n, the
+country seat of the Greek Patriarch. There you are certain to find
+people who will have compassion. Would God that I had never lived to
+see this day! Would God that I were in the grave instead of you!'</p>
+
+<p>He seemed beside himself with grief and fear on my account; and yet
+the sense of property remained supreme. His first concern was to
+retrieve the runaway.</p>
+
+<p>Bewildered and unable to see clearly, I did not mount the horse, which
+would have mastered me in that condition, but led him slowly up the
+hill to Katam&ucirc;n. Upon the top there was a grove of trees, above which
+peeped some flat roofs and a dome. At length I reached the gate of
+this enclosure. It was open, and I led the horse along a sort of
+drive, on which were many chickens and a tethered sheep, which,
+bolting round a tree at our approach, became inextricably tangled in
+its rope.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span>In a court between a little church and other buildings, a grim old
+woman in a coloured head-veil looked at me out of a doorway. I called
+to her that I had had an accident, and asked the favour of some
+washing-water and a bandage. She stared at me in doleful wise, and
+shook her head.</p>
+
+<p>'Water! Bring me water!' I insisted.</p>
+
+<p>She went indoors and fetched a man of the same breed, whose eyes grew
+large and dull with horror at the sight of me.</p>
+
+<p>Again I asked to be allowed to wash my head and face.</p>
+
+<p>I heard the woman whisper: 'Shall I bring it?' and the man reply: 'Let
+be! This blood-stained form is half a corpse already. He will surely
+die. The horse, perhaps, is stolen. There has been a fight. If we
+should touch him we might be concerned in it. Wait till the end. Then
+we will summon his Beatitude, and have our testimony written down to
+prove our innocence.'</p>
+
+<p>Amazed at their stupidity, I took a step towards them, arguing. They
+vanished headlong, when I realised for the first time that my
+appearance was in truth alarming. Perceiving the advantage that
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span>appearance gave me, I pursued them, promising them plagues in this
+world and perdition in the next unless they brought some water
+instantly.</p>
+
+<p>The horse, which I was leading all this while, had been as quiet as a
+lamb; but, frightened by my shouts and gestures, he became
+unmanageable. I was struggling with him in the doorway of the house
+when a large and dignified ecclesiastic came upon the scene, the
+jewelled cross upon his cassock flashing in the sun. In the twinkling
+of an eye, it seemed to me, he had subdued the horse and tied him to a
+ring in the wall which I, in my bewilderment, had failed to see; had
+seized me by the collar of my coat and driven me before him through a
+kind of tunnel to a second court in which there was a cistern and a
+pump. He worked that pump and held my head beneath it, cursing the
+servants for a pack of imbeciles.</p>
+
+<p>The man and woman reappeared, completely tamed. He sent them running,
+one for stuff to make a bandage, the other for medicaments, but said
+no word to me until the work was ended, when he grinned and asked:
+'Art happy now?'</p>
+
+<p>I told him that I felt a great deal better.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span>'Good,' he said, and led me by the hand into an upper chamber, richly
+carpeted, and furnished with a cushioned divan, of which the windows
+framed a wide view eastward over the Jud&aelig;an wilderness.</p>
+
+<p>There, sitting comfortably, he asked who I was and of what country;
+and, hearing that I came from England, questioned me about the High
+Church and the Low Church in that land, and whether they formed one
+communion or were separate&mdash;a problem which he seemed to think of
+great importance. He was glad, he said, that I was not a Roman
+Catholic, a sect which he regarded as the worst of heretics.</p>
+
+<p>But his concern with all these matters seemed perfunctory compared
+with the delight he took in farming; for when I noticed from the
+window some sleek cows munching in a small enclosure, he brightened up
+and told me they were recent purchases. He talked about his poultry
+and his sheep and goats, all of which he would be pleased to show me
+if I cared to see them.</p>
+
+<p>Accordingly, when we had drunk some coffee, which completed my
+revival, he took me out and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span>showed me round his small demesne. We
+were standing in the shade of trees, discussing turkeys, when my
+companion of the road arrived upon the truant horse. He was a member
+of the Orthodox Greek Church.</p>
+
+<p>What was my amazement when, having tied up the horse, he came with
+reverent haste and knelt at my companion's feet, kissing his hand with
+pious and devoted fervour. The grey-bearded priest, with full brown
+eyes, and hair that curled below the tall black head-dress like a
+trimming of grey astrakhan, with whom I had been talking so
+familiarly, was no other than the successor of St. James, the Orthodox
+Patriarch of Jerusalem. I had supposed him some sub-prior or domestic
+chaplain. His Beatitude acknowledged my surprise by an ironic grin.</p>
+
+<p>The new arrival, still upon his knees, embarked on a long story, told
+in lamentable tones, about a man who was in love, and like to die of
+it, with a young girl who was the sister of his brother's wife. It is
+forbidden by the canons of the Eastern Church for two brothers to
+marry two sisters.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>'Is there no way by which he may obtain her lawfully?' the suppliant
+asked.</p>
+
+<p>The Patriarch assumed an air of weariness, and shook his head.</p>
+
+<p>'If he were a Catholic or a Protestant he could obtain her lawfully.'</p>
+
+<p>The Patriarch assumed an air of pitying scorn.</p>
+
+<p>'The case is very hard,' the suppliant moaned, as he rose up from the
+ground at last and cleaned his knees.</p>
+
+<p>The Patriarch, with a shrug, remarked that it was so. The young man
+should not have cast eyes upon a maid unlawful to him.</p>
+
+<p>'The only way,' he said, 'is to obtain annulment of the brother's
+marriage by proving it to be illegal in some way.' With that he left
+the subject and resumed his talk concerning poultry. My companion of
+the road was plucking at my sleeve.</p>
+
+<p>I took leave of the Patriarch respectfully, with many thanks. He
+clapped me on the shoulder, saying: 'Come again! And never seek to wed
+the sister of thy brother's wife. Your Church does not forbid such
+marriage&mdash;does it?&mdash;being still tainted with the Latin heresy. Why
+does the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span>Orthodox Church forbid it? Because it brings confusion into
+families, and is indecent.'</p>
+
+<p>He seemed to jest, but the look he gave to my companion as we rode
+away was stern, I thought, and more than half-contemptuous.</p>
+
+<p>Excepting that my head was bandaged, I felt well again; so we rode on,
+as we had first intended, towards Bethlehem. Over a rocky land with
+patches of pink cyclamen, black crows were wheeling in a sky of vivid
+blue.</p>
+
+<p>We came into the olive groves beneath the hill on which stands the
+Greek priory of M&acirc;r Elias, when my companion said ingratiatingly: 'If
+you please, we will call at the monastery and take refreshment. The
+monks are friends of mine. It was with the object of this visit that I
+led our ride in this direction.'</p>
+
+<p>As I raised no objection, we tied up our horses in the garden of the
+monastery and went in. We found the Prior in the middle of a
+tea-party, a number of Greek neighbours, of both sexes, being gathered
+in a very comfortably-furnished room.</p>
+
+<p>My friend, ere entering, implored me in a whisper not to tell them
+that my accident was owing to his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span>clumsy horsemanship. Instead, he
+put about some story which I did not clearly overhear&mdash;something about
+a fight with desert Arabs, redounding to my credit, I conclude, from
+the solicitude which everyone expressed on my account when he had told
+it. Some of the ladies present insisted on a second washing of my
+wounds with rose-water, and a second bandaging with finer linen than
+the Patriarch had used. Some monks, their long hair frizzed
+coquettishly and tied with ribbon, helped in the work. I did not like
+the look of them. My friend meanwhile was talking to some pretty
+girls.</p>
+
+<p>When we rode off again towards Jerusalem he asked me questions about
+the Anglican and Roman Churches, and seemed to think it a sad defect
+in the former that it lacked the faculty of dispensation with regard
+to marriage.</p>
+
+<p>After a space of silence, as we were riding down the hill by the
+Ophthalmic Hospital, with the Tower of David and the city walls
+crowning the steep before us, he inquired: 'Did you observe those
+girls with whom I was conversing&mdash;especially the one with pale-blue
+ribbons. It is her I love.' And, when I complimented him on his good
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>taste, he added: 'I think I shall become a Catholic,' and started
+weeping.</p>
+
+<p>I then learnt from his broken speech that he was himself the hapless
+lover of his story to the Patriarch. The girl whom I had seen at M&acirc;r
+Elias was the sister of his brother's wife. I was as sympathetic in
+appearance as I could be; but somehow all my sympathy was with the
+Patriarch, who seemed to me the only man whom I had seen that day.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXI" id="CHAPTER_XXI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE UNPOPULAR LANDOWNER</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>I had decided to buy land and settle down in Syria; and had obtained
+consent from home upon condition that I did not spend more than a
+certain sum of money, not a large one, which, Suleym&acirc;n had told me,
+would be quite sufficient for the purpose. He pointed out how lands,
+at present desert, and to be bought for a mere song, could be rendered
+profitable for the cost of bringing water to them. There was such a
+tract of land adjacent to the village where he had a house, with water
+running under it at no great depth. Rash&icirc;d, my servant, did not like
+this notion of converting deserts into gardens. He called it simple
+waste of time and labour, when gardens ready made were going cheap.
+There was a nice estate, with two perennial springs within its
+boundaries, near his village in the north. His people would be proud
+and gratified if I would honour their poor dwelling while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span>inspecting
+it. Suleym&acirc;n lamented that his house was quite unworthy of my
+occupation, but proposed to have a fine pavilion pitched outside it,
+if I would deign to grace the village as his guest.</p>
+
+<p>'Depend upon it,' said an Englishman whom I consulted on one of my
+rare visits to the city, 'the land they recommend belongs to their
+relations. They will sell it you for twenty times the market value,
+and then adhere to you like leeches till they've sucked you dry.' He
+added: 'I advise you to give up the whole idea,' but I was used to
+that advice, and firm against it.</p>
+
+<p>His warning against native counsellors, however, weighed with me to
+this extent, that I determined to ignore the lands they recommended in
+their neighbourhood. Each was at first cast down when I announced this
+resolution. But presently Rash&icirc;d exclaimed: 'No matter where we dwell.
+I still shall serve thee'; and Suleym&acirc;n, after smoking his nargh&icirc;leh a
+long while in silence, said: 'Each summer I will visit thee and give
+advice.'</p>
+
+<p>All three of us then set to work upon inquiries. Innumerable were the
+sheykhs who seemed to be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>in money difficulties and wished to sell
+their land. Some owners journeyed forty miles to come and see me, and
+explain the great advantage of their property. But, knowing something
+of the Land Code, I inquired about the tenure. I wanted only 'mulk' or
+freehold land; and 'wakf' (land held in tail or mortmain) of various
+and awful kinds is much more common. At last a sheykh came who
+declared his land was 'mulk,' and certain of our neighbours, men of
+worth, testified of their certain knowledge that he spoke the truth.</p>
+
+<p>The village where the property was situated was a long day's journey
+from our own. A fortnight after my discussion with the owner Suleym&acirc;n
+and I set out on our way thither, having sent Rash&icirc;d ahead of us to
+find a decent lodging, since it was our intention to remain there
+several days.</p>
+
+<p>The village was arranged in steps upon a mountain side, the roofs of
+houses on the lower level serving as approach to those above. On all
+the steep slopes round about it there were orchards, with now and then
+a flat-roofed house among the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d came out to meet us, accompanied by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span>certain of the elders,
+among whom I looked in vain for the owner of the land we were to
+visit. My first inquiry was for him. Rash&icirc;d replied: 'He is unpopular.
+I went to the chief people of the village'&mdash;he waved his hand towards
+the persons who escorted him&mdash;'and they have set apart a house and
+stable for your Honour's use.'</p>
+
+<p>The house turned out to be a single room, cube-shaped, and furnished
+only with some matting. The stable, part of the same building, was
+exactly like it, except that it was open at one end.</p>
+
+<p>We had our supper at a tavern by the village spring, surrounded by a
+friendly crowd of fell&acirc;h&icirc;n. Again I looked for the old gentleman whom
+I had come to see, and whispered my surprise at not beholding him.
+Rash&icirc;d again replied: 'He is unpopular.'</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the house with me, Rash&icirc;d arranged my bed; put candle,
+matches, cigarettes within my reach; fastened the shutters of two
+windows; and retired, informing me that he and Suleym&acirc;n were sleeping
+at the dwelling of the headman of the place.</p>
+
+<p>I had got into my bed upon the floor when there <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span>came a knocking on
+the solid wooden shutters which Rash&icirc;d had closed. I went and opened
+one of them a little way. It was moonlight, but the window looked into
+the gloom of olive trees. A voice out of the shadows questioned:</p>
+
+<p>'Is it thou, the Englishman?'</p>
+
+<p>It was the owner of the land, who then reproached me in heartbroken
+tones because I had not let him know the hour of my arrival, that he
+and his three sons might have gone forth upon the road to meet me. The
+owners of the place where now I lodged were his chief enemies. He
+begged me to steal forth at once and come with him. When I refused, he
+groaned despairingly and left me with the words:</p>
+
+<p>'Believe not anything they say about us or the property.'</p>
+
+<p>I closed the shutter and went back to bed. But it was hot. I rose
+again and opened both the windows so as to secure whatever breeze
+there was, and, after a long spell of angry tossing due to sandflies,
+fell asleep. When I awoke the room was full of daylight and a murmur
+which I first mistook for that of insects, but soon found out to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span>be
+the voice of a considerable crowd of human beings. At every window was
+a press of faces and of women's head-veils, and children raised upon
+their mothers' shoulders. I heard a child's sad wail: 'O mother, lift
+me up that I, too, may behold the unbeliever!'</p>
+
+<p>I made haste to cover myself somehow, for in my sleep I had kicked off
+the bedclothes, and commanded all those women to be gone immediately.
+They merely grinned and wished me a good day, and then discussed my
+personal appearance, the whiteness of my skin, and more particularly
+my pyjamas, with much interest. This went on till Rash&icirc;d appeared upon
+the scene, bringing my india-rubber bath and a kerosene tin full of
+water. He closed and bolted all the shutters firmly, with stern
+reflections on the lack of shame of my admirers.</p>
+
+<p>I told him of the visit of the owner of the land.</p>
+
+<p>He answered as before: 'He is unpopular.'</p>
+
+<p>I asked the reason, and he told me:</p>
+
+<p>'There are in this part of the country two factions which have existed
+from old time. All the people in this village are adherents of one
+faction, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span>except that old man and his children, who uphold the other.
+The people would not mind so much if he kept silent, but he gibes at
+them and vaunts his party upon all occasions. They intend to kill him.
+That is why he wants to sell. It is good to know this, since it gives
+us an advantage.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n arrived. We all three breakfasted on slabs of country bread
+and a great bowl of curds, and then went out to view that old man's
+land. The sheykh&mdash;whose name was Y&ucirc;suf&mdash;and his sons were there to
+show us round, and, though the property was not extensive, they
+contrived to keep us there till noon, when a round meal was spread for
+us beneath some trees. And after that was finished, the sheykh availed
+himself of some remark of mine to start the whole perambulation once
+again.</p>
+
+<p>At last it came to mention of the price, which seemed to me excessive,
+and I said so to my friends.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d replied: 'Of course! The business has not yet begun. To-morrow
+and the next day we shall view the land again; and after that we shall
+arrange for the appointment of two valuers, one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>for us and one for
+him, who will inspect the land, first separately, then together; and
+after that we shall appoint an arbiter who will remonstrate with the
+owner of the land; and after that&mdash;&mdash;'</p>
+
+<p>'But the business will take months.'</p>
+
+<p>'That is the proper way, unless your Honour wishes to be cheated.'</p>
+
+<p>'What is your opinion?' I inquired of Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'The land is good, and capable of much improvement,' he replied, 'and
+all the trees go with it, which is an advantage. Also the source of
+water will be all our own.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n repeated this remark in presence of the crowd of villagers
+whom we found awaiting our return before my house. At once there rose
+a cry: 'That Y&ucirc;suf is a liar. Some of the trees do not belong to him.
+The water, too, does not originate upon his property, but on the hill
+above, so can be cut from him.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n was talking with the village headman. When he returned to me
+his face was grave.</p>
+
+<p>'What is it?' I inquired. 'Has the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf been deceiving us?'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span>He shook his head with a disgusted frown before replying:</p>
+
+<p>'No, it is these others who are lying through dislike of him. Is your
+heart set upon the purchase of that land?'</p>
+
+<p>'By no means.'</p>
+
+<p>'That is good; because this village is a nest of hornets. The headman
+has long marked that land out for his own. Were we to pay Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf
+a good price for it, enabling him to leave the neighbourhood with
+honour, they would hate us and work for our discomfort in a multitude
+of little ways. We will call upon the Sheykh to-morrow and cry off the
+bargain, because your Honour caught a touch of fever from the land
+to-day. That is a fair excuse.'</p>
+
+<p>We proffered it upon the morrow, when the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf received it
+with a scarce veiled sneer, seeming extremely mortified. Directly
+after we had left him, we heard later, he went down to the tavern by
+the village spring and cursed the elders who had turned my mind
+against him in unmeasured terms; annoying people so that they
+determined there and then to make an end of him.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span>Next morning, when we started on our homeward way, there was a noise
+of firing in the village, and, coming round a shoulder of the hill in
+single file we saw Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf seated on a chair against the wall of
+his house, and screened by a great olive tree, the slits in whose old
+trunk made perfect loopholes, blazing away at a large crowd of hostile
+fell&acirc;h&icirc;n. He used, in turn, three rifles, which his sons kept loading
+for him. He was seated, as we afterwards found out, because he had
+been shot in the leg.</p>
+
+<p>I was for dashing to his rescue, and Rash&icirc;d was following. We should
+both have lost our lives, most probably, if Suleym&acirc;n had not shouted
+at that moment, in stentorian tones: 'Desist, in the name of the
+Sultan and all the Powers of Europe! Desist, or every one of you shall
+surely hang!'</p>
+
+<p>Such words aroused the people's curiosity. The firing ceased while we
+rode in between them and their object; and Suleym&acirc;n assured the
+villagers politely that I was the right hand and peculiar agent of the
+English Consul-General, with absolutely boundless power to hang and
+massacre.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the other hand, we all three argued with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span>Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf that he
+should leave the place at once and lay his case before the Governor.</p>
+
+<p>'We will go with him,' said Suleym&acirc;n to me, 'in order that your Honour
+may be made acquainted with the Governor&mdash;a person whom you ought to
+know. His property will not be damaged in his absence, for they fear
+the law. The heat of war is one thing, and cold-blooded malice is
+another. It is the sight and sound of him that irritates them and so
+drives them to excess.'</p>
+
+<p>At length we got the Sheykh on horseback and upon the road; but he was
+far from grateful, wishing always to go back and fight. We could not
+get a civil word from him on the long ride, and just before we reached
+the town where lived the Governor he managed to escape.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d flung up his hands when we first noticed his defection. 'No
+wonder that he is unpopular,' he cried disgustedly. 'To flee from us,
+his benefactors, after we have come so far out of our way through
+kindness upon his account. It is abominable. Who, under Allah, could
+feel love for such a man?'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXII" id="CHAPTER_XXII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE CA&Iuml;MMAC&Acirc;M</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Though the reason of our coming, the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf, had deserted us, we
+rode into the town and spent the night there, finding lodgings at a
+khan upon the outskirts of the place, of which the yard was shaded by
+a fine old carob tree. While we were having breakfast the next morning
+in a kind of gallery which looked into the branches of that tree, and
+through them and a ruined archway to the road, crowded just then with
+peasants in grey clothing coming in to market, Suleym&acirc;n proposed that
+he and I should go and call upon the Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m, the local Governor. I
+had spent a wretched night. The place was noisy and malodorous. My one
+desire was to be gone as soon as possible, and so I answered:</p>
+
+<p>'I will call on no one. My only wish to see him was upon account of
+that old rogue who ran away from us.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span>'The man was certainly ungrateful&mdash;curse his father!' said Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>'The man is to be pitied, being ignorant,' said Suleym&acirc;n. 'His one
+idea was to defend his house and land by combat. He did not perceive
+that by the course of law and influence he might defend them more
+effectually, and for ever. He probably did not imagine that your
+Honour would yourself approach the Governor and plead with him.'</p>
+
+<p>'I shall see nobody,' I answered crossly. 'We return at once.'</p>
+
+<p>'Good,' said Rash&icirc;d. 'I get the horses ready.'</p>
+
+<p>'And yet,' said our preceptor thoughtfully, 'his Excellency is, they
+say, a charming man; and this would be a golden opportunity for us to
+get acquainted with him and bespeak his favour. Thus the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf,
+though himself contemptible, may be of service to us. Already I have
+told the people here that we have come on an important errand to the
+Governor. Rash&icirc;d, too, as I know, has spoken of the matter in a
+boastful way. If, after that, we should depart in dudgeon without
+seeing him, there would be gossip and perhaps&mdash;God knows&mdash;even
+political disturbance. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>Governor, coming to hear of it, might
+reasonably feel aggrieved.'</p>
+
+<p>He argued so ridiculously, yet so gravely, that in the end I was
+obliged to yield. And so, a little before ten o'clock, we sauntered
+through the narrow streets to the Government offices&mdash;a red-roofed,
+whitewashed building near which soldiers loitered, in a dusty square.</p>
+
+<p>There we waited for a long while in an ante-room&mdash;spacious, but rather
+dingy, with cushionless divans around the walls, on which a strange
+variety of suitors sat or squatted. Some of these appeared so poor
+that I admired their boldness in demanding audience of the Governor.
+Yet it was one of the most wretched in appearance who was called first
+by the turbaned, black-robed usher. He passed into an inner room: the
+door was shut.</p>
+
+<p>Then Suleym&acirc;n went over to the usher, who kept guard upon that door,
+and held a whispered conversation with him. I know not what he said;
+but, when the wretched-looking man came out again, the usher slipped
+into the inner room with reverence and, presently returning, bowed to
+us and bade us enter. I went in, followed by Suleym&acirc;n, who <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span>swelled
+and strutted like a pouter pigeon in his flowing robes.</p>
+
+<p>The Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m was a nice-looking Turk of middle-age, extremely neat in
+his apparel and methodical in his surroundings. He might have been an
+Englishman but for the crimson fez upon his brow and a chaplet of red
+beads, with which he toyed perpetually. He gazed into my eyes with
+kind inquiry. I told him that I came with tidings of a grave
+disturbance in his district, and then left Suleym&acirc;n to tell the story
+of Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf and his neighbours and the battle we had witnessed in
+the olive grove before his house.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n exhausted all his powers of language and of wit, making a
+veritable poem of the episode. The Governor did not appear profoundly
+interested.</p>
+
+<p>'Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf! Who is he?' he asked at the conclusion of the tale.</p>
+
+<p>I explained that the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf was a landowner, whose acquaintance
+we had made through my desire to buy some property.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour thinks of settling here among us?' cried his Excellency,
+with sudden zest, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>appearing quite enraptured with the notion. He
+asked then if the French tongue was intelligible to me, and, hearing
+that it was, talked long in French about my project, which seemed to
+please him greatly. He said that it would be a blessing for his
+district to have a highly civilised, enlightened being like myself
+established in it as the sun and centre of improvement; and what a
+comfort it would be to him particularly to have an educated man at
+hand to talk to! He hoped that, when I had set up my model farm&mdash;for a
+model it would be, in every way, he felt quite sure of that, from my
+appearance and my conversation&mdash;I would not limit my attention solely
+to the work of agriculture, but would go on to improve the native
+breeds of sheep and oxen. He heard that splendid strains of both were
+found in England. He wished me to import a lot of English bulls and
+rams, assuring me of the assistance of the Government in all that I
+might do in that direction, since the Sultan ('His Imperial Majesty'
+he called him always) took the greatest interest in such experiments.</p>
+
+<p>All this was very far from my original design, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>which was to lead as
+far as possible a quiet life. But I promised to give thought to all
+his Excellency's counsels.</p>
+
+<p>He made me smoke two cigarettes and drink a cup of coffee which his
+secretary had prepared upon a brazier in a corner of the room; and
+then, with a sweet smile and deprecating gestures of the hands, he
+begged me to excuse him if he closed the interview. It was a grief to
+him to let me go, but he was very busy.</p>
+
+<p>I rose at once, and so did Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'But what of the Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf?' I exclaimed, reminding him.</p>
+
+<p>'Ah, to be sure!' rejoined the Governor with a slight frown. 'Of what
+religion is he?'</p>
+
+<p>'I suppose a Druze.'</p>
+
+<p>'And the people who attacked him so unmercifully?'</p>
+
+<p>'Are Druzes too.'</p>
+
+<p>'Ah, then, it is all in the family, as the saying goes. And, unless
+some deputation from the Druze community appeals to me, I should be
+ill-advised to interfere in its affairs. Our way of government is not
+identical with that which is pursued with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span>such conspicuous success in
+highly civilised and settled countries like your own. We leave the
+various communities and tribes alone to settle their internal
+differences. It is only where tribe wars on tribe, religion on
+religion, or their quarrels stop the traffic on the Sultan's highway
+that we intervene. What would you have, mon ami? We are here in Asia!'</p>
+
+<p>With these words, and a smile of quite ineffable indulgence for my
+young illusions, his Excellency bowed me out.</p>
+
+<p>In the ante-room Suleym&acirc;n drew close to my left ear and whispered
+sharply:</p>
+
+<p>'Give me four mej&icirc;dis.'</p>
+
+<p>'Whatever for?' I asked in deep amazement.</p>
+
+<p>'That I will tell you afterwards. The need is instant.'</p>
+
+<p>I produced the four mej&icirc;dis from a trouser-pocket, and, receiving
+them, he went back to the door by which the usher stood, and whispered
+to the man, who went inside a moment and came back with the private
+secretary of the Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m. The compliments which passed between them
+seemed to me interminable.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span>I paced the pavement of the waiting-room, the only figure in the crowd
+whose attitude bespoke impatience. The others sat or squatted round
+the walls in perfect resignation, some of them smoking, others
+munching nuts of various kinds, of which the shells began to hide the
+floor adjacent to them. A few of the suppliants had even had the
+forethought to bring with them bags full of provisions, as if
+anticipating that their time of waiting might endure for several days.</p>
+
+<p>At last, when I was growing really angry with him, Suleym&acirc;n returned
+and told me:</p>
+
+<p>'All is well, and we can now be going, if your Honour pleases.'</p>
+
+<p>'I do please,' I rejoined indignantly. 'Why have you kept me waiting
+all this while? I never wished to come at all into this place, and
+Allah knows that we have done no good by coming. We have spoilt a
+morning which we might have spent upon the road.'</p>
+
+<p>'Allah, Allah!' sighed Suleym&acirc;n long-sufferingly. 'Your Honour is
+extremely hard to please. Did not his Excellency talk to you
+exclusively, with every sign of the most lively <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span>pleasure for quite
+half an hour; whereas he scarcely deigned to throw a word to me,
+although I wooed his ear with language calculated to seduce the mind
+of kings? I have some cause to be dejected at neglect from one so
+powerful; but you have every cause to be elated. He is now your
+friend.'</p>
+
+<p>'I shall never see him in my life again most likely!' I objected.</p>
+
+<p>'Nay, that you cannot tell,' replied my mentor suavely. 'To be
+acquainted with a person in authority is always well.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>CONCERNING BRIBES</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>'Why did you want those four mej&icirc;dis?' I inquired severely.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n shrugged up his shoulders and replied:</p>
+
+<p>'I had to pay the proper fees, since you yourself showed not a sign of
+doing so, to save our carefully established honour and good name.'</p>
+
+<p>'You don't mean that you gave them to the Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m?'</p>
+
+<p>'Allah forbid! Consider, O beloved, my position in this matter. To put
+it in the form of parables: Suppose a king and his vizier should pay a
+visit to another king and his vizier. If there were presents to be
+made, I ask you, would not those intended for the king be offered
+personally by the king, and those for the vizier by the vizier? It
+will be obvious to your Honour, upon slight reflection, that if, in
+our adventure of this morning, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span>a present to the Governor was
+necessary or desirable, you personally, and no other creature, should
+have made it.'</p>
+
+<p>'Merciful Allah!' I exclaimed. 'He would have knocked me down.'</p>
+
+<p>'He would have done nothing of the kind, being completely civilised.
+He would merely have pushed back your hand with an indulgent smile,
+pressing it tenderly, as who should say: "Thou art a child in these
+things, and dost not know our ways, being a stranger." Yet,
+undoubtedly, upon the whole, your offer of a gift, however small,
+would have confirmed the good opinion which he formed at sight of you.</p>
+
+<p>'But let that pass! Out of the four mej&icirc;dis which you gave me so
+reluctantly (since you ask for an account) I presented one to the
+usher, and three to his Excellency's private secretary, in your name.
+And I have procured it of the secretary's kindness that he will urge
+his lord to take some measures to protect that ancient malefactor, the
+Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf.'</p>
+
+<p>'If I had tipped the Governor, as you suggest that I ought to have
+done,' I interrupted <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span>vehemently, 'do you mean to say he would have
+taken measures to protect Sheykh Y&ucirc;suf?'</p>
+
+<p>'Nay, I say not that; but he would at least have had complete
+conviction that your Honour takes a lively interest in that old
+churl&mdash;a person in himself unpleasant and unworthy of a single thought
+from any thinking or right-minded individual. Thus, even though he
+scorned the money, as he would no doubt have done, the offer would
+have told him we were earnest in our application, and he might
+conceivably have taken action from desire to do a pleasure to one
+whom, as I said before, he loved at sight.'</p>
+
+<p>'The whole system is corrupt,' I said, 'and what is worse,
+unreasonable.'</p>
+
+<p>'So say the Franks,' replied Suleym&acirc;n, shrugging his shoulders up and
+spreading wide his hands, as though before a wall of blind stupidity
+which he knew well could never be cast down nor yet surmounted. 'Our
+governors, our judges, and the crowd of small officials are not highly
+paid, and what they do receive is paid irregularly. Then all, whether
+high or low, must live; and it is customary in our land to offer
+gifts <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span>to persons in authority, because a smile, God knows, is always
+better than a frown from such an one. We are not like the Franks, who
+barter everything, even their most sacred feelings, even love. It
+gives us pleasure to make gifts, and see them welcomed, even when the
+recipient is someone who cannot in any way repay us for our trouble,
+as a Frank would say.'</p>
+
+<p>'But to sell justice; for it comes to that!' I cried, indignant.</p>
+
+<p>'Who talks of selling justice? You are quite mistaken. If I have to go
+before a judge I make a gift beforehand to his Honour, whose
+acceptance tells me, not that he will give a verdict in my favour&mdash;do
+not think it!&mdash;but merely that his mind contains no grudge against me.
+If he refused the gift I should be terrified, since I should think he
+had been won completely by the other side. To take gifts from both
+parties without preference, making allowance, when there is occasion,
+for the man who is too poor to give; and then to judge entirely on the
+merits of the case; that is the way of upright judges in an Eastern
+country. The gifts we make are usually small, whereas the fees which
+lawyers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span>charge in Western countries are exorbitant, as you yourself
+have told me more than once and I have heard from others. And even
+after paying those enormous fees, the inoffensive, righteous person is
+as like to suffer as the guilty. Here, for altogether harmless men to
+suffer punishment in place of rogues is quite unheard-of; though
+occasionally one notorious evildoer may be punished for another's
+crime when this is great and the real criminal cannot be found and
+there is call for an example to be made upon the instant. This
+generally happens when a foreign consul interferes, demanding
+vengeance for some slight offence against his nationals. Things like
+that take place occasionally when the court is flustered. But in its
+natural course, believe me, Turkish justice, if slow-moving, is as
+good as that of Europe and infinitely less expensive than your English
+law.'</p>
+
+<p>I made no answer, feeling quite bewildered.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n was always serious in manner, which made it very hard to tell
+when he was joking or in earnest. Among the natives of the land, I
+knew, he had the reputation of a mighty joker, but I had learnt the
+fact from the applause of others. I never <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span>should have guessed from
+his demeanour that he jested consciously.</p>
+
+<p>He also held his peace until we reached our hostelry. There, some
+half-hour later, when I had given orders for our horses to be ready
+for a start directly after luncheon&mdash;a decision against which Suleym&acirc;n
+protested unsuccessfully, declaring it would be too hot for riding&mdash;I
+overheard him telling the whole story of our visit, including the
+donation of the four mej&icirc;dis, to Rash&icirc;d, who was lazily engaged in
+polishing my horse's withers.</p>
+
+<p>'That secretary is a man of breeding,' he was saying, in a tone of
+warm approval; 'for I noticed he was careful to receive the present in
+his left hand, which he placed behind his back in readiness, with
+great decorum. Nor did he thank me, or give any token of
+acknowledgment beyond a little friendly twinkle of the eyes.'</p>
+
+<p>At once I pounced on this admission, crying: 'That shows that he
+regarded the transaction as unlawful! And your remark upon it shows
+that you, too, think it so.'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n looked slowly round until his eyes met mine, not one whit
+disconcerted, though until <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span>I spoke he had not known that I was
+anywhere in earshot.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour is incorrigible,' he replied, with a grave smile. 'I
+never knew your like for obstinacy in a false opinion; which shows
+that you were born to fill some high position in the world. Of course
+they all&mdash;these fine officials, great and small&mdash;regard it as beneath
+their dignity to take a present which they sorely need. To take such
+presents greedily would be to advertise their poverty to all the
+world. And Government appointments swell a man with pride, if nothing
+else&mdash;a pride which makes them anxious to be thought above all fear of
+want. For that cause, they are half-ashamed of taking gifts. But no
+one in this country thinks it wrong of them to do so, nor to oblige
+the giver, if they can, in little ways. It would be wrong if they
+betrayed the trust reposed in them by their superiors, or were seduced
+into some act against their loyalty or their religion. But that,
+praise be to God, you will not find. It is only in small matters such
+as acts of commerce or politeness, which hardly come within the sphere
+of a man's conscience, that they are procurable, and no one <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span>in this
+country thinks the worse of them, whatever people say to you, a
+foreigner, by way of flattery. It is very difficult for foreigners to
+learn the truth. Your Honour should be thankful that you have Suleym&acirc;n
+for an instructor&mdash;and Rash&icirc;d, too,' he added as an after-thought,
+seeing that my bodyservant stood close by, expecting mention.</p>
+
+<p>And after more than twenty years' experience of Eastern matters, I
+know now that he was right.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXIV" id="CHAPTER_XXIV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXIV<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE BATTLEFIELD</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Our road, the merest bridle-path, which sometimes altogether
+disappeared and had to be retrieved by guesswork, meandered on the
+side of a ravine, down in the depths of which, in groves of oleander,
+there flowed a stream of which we caught the murmur. The forest was
+continuous on our side of the wadi. It consisted of dense olive groves
+around the villages and a much thinner growth of ilex in the tracts
+between. The shade was pleasant in the daytime, but as night came on
+its gloom oppressed our spirits with extreme concern, for we were
+still a long way off our destination, and uncertain of the way.</p>
+
+<p>The gloom increased. From open places here and there we saw the stars,
+but gloom filled the ravine, and there was little difference between
+the darkness underneath the trees and that outside in open spaces of
+the grove. We trusted to our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span>horses to make out the path, which
+sometimes ran along the verge of precipices.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot say that I was happy in my mind. Rash&icirc;d made matters worse by
+dwelling on the risks we ran not only from abandoned men but ghouls
+and jinnis. The lugubrious call of a hy&aelig;na in the distance moved him
+to remark that ghouls assume that shape at night to murder travellers.
+They come up close and rub against them like a loving cat; which
+contact robs the victims of their intellect, and causes them to follow
+the hy&aelig;na to its den, where the ghoul kills them and inters their
+bodies till the flesh is ripe.</p>
+
+<p>He next expressed a fear lest we might come upon some ruin lighted up,
+and be deceived into supposing it a haunt of men, as had happened to a
+worthy cousin of his own when on a journey. This individual, whose
+name was Ali, had been transported in the twinkling of an eye by
+jinnis, from somewhere in the neighbourhood of Ham&aacute; to the wilds of
+Jebel C&acirc;f (Mount Caucasus), and had escaped a hideous and painful
+death only by recollection of the name of God. He told me, too, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span>how
+he himself, when stationed at Mers&icirc;n, had met a company of demons, one
+fine evening in returning from an errand; and other tales which caused
+my flesh to creep.</p>
+
+<p>The groves receded. We were in an open place where only a low kind of
+brushwood grew, when suddenly my horse shied, gave a fearful snort,
+and sturdily refused to budge another inch. I let him stand until
+Rash&icirc;d came up. He thought to pass me, but his horse refused as mine
+had done.</p>
+
+<p>'It is no doubt some jinni in the way,' he whispered in a frightened
+tone; then, calling out: 'Dast&ucirc;r, ya mub&acirc;rak' (Permission, blessed
+one!), he tried to urge his horse, which still demurred. So there we
+were, arrested by some unseen hand; and this became the more
+unpleasant because a pestilential smell was in the place.</p>
+
+<p>'Better return!' muttered Rash&icirc;d, with chattering teeth.</p>
+
+<p>'Give me a match!' I said distractedly. 'My box is empty.'</p>
+
+<p>'Better return!' he pleaded.</p>
+
+<p>'A match, do you hear?' I cried, made cross by terror.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span>He gave the match, and I believe I shouted as I struck it. For a brief
+space it made a dazzle in my eyes, preventing me from seeing anything,
+and then went out.</p>
+
+<p>'There is something lying in the path!' Rash&icirc;d was gibbering.</p>
+
+<p>I got down off my horse and lit a second match, which I took care to
+shelter till the flame was strong. A human arm lay in the path before
+us.</p>
+
+<p>My horror was extreme, and grew uncanny when the match expired. But
+the ghastly object had restored his courage to Rash&icirc;d, who even
+laughed aloud as he exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'The praise to Allah! It is nothing which can hurt us. No doubt some
+murder has been here committed, all unknown. The Lord have mercy on
+the owner of that arm! We will report the matter to some high official
+at our journey's end.'</p>
+
+<p>We turned our horses to the right and made a long detour, but scarcely
+had they found the path again when mine (which led the way) demurred
+once more.</p>
+
+<p>'Another piece,' exclaimed Rash&icirc;d excitedly. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>He got down off his
+horse to look. 'Nay, many pieces. This, by Allah, is no other than a
+battlefield unknown to fame.'</p>
+
+<p>'How can a battle take place without public knowledge?' I inquired,
+incredulous.</p>
+
+<p>'The thing may happen when two factions quarrel for unlawful cause&mdash;it
+may be over stolen gains, or for some deadly wrong which cannot be
+avowed without dishonour&mdash;and when each side exterminates the other.'</p>
+
+<p>'How can that happen?' I exclaimed again.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d could not at once reply, because in our avoidance of those
+human relics we found ourselves on broken ground and among trunks of
+trees, which called for the address of all our wits. But when the
+horses once more plodded steadily, he assured me that the thing could
+happen, and had happened often in that country, where men's blood is
+hot. He told me how a band of brigands once, in Anti-Lebanon, had
+fought over their spoils till the majority on both sides had been
+slain, and the survivors were so badly wounded that they could not
+move, but lay and died upon the battlefield; and how the people of two
+villages, both men and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span>women, being mad with envy, had held a battle
+with the same result. I interrupted him with questions. Both of us
+were glad to talk in order to get rid of the remembrance of our former
+fear. We gave the rein to our imaginations, speaking eagerly.</p>
+
+<p>Reverting to the severed limbs which we had seen, Rash&icirc;d exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'Now I will tell your Honour how it happened. A deadly insult had been
+offered to a family in a young girl's dishonour. Her father and her
+brothers killed her to wipe out the shame&mdash;as is the custom here among
+the fell&acirc;h&icirc;n&mdash;and then with all their relatives waylaid the men of the
+insulter's house when these were cutting wood here in the forest.
+There was a furious battle, lasting many hours. The combatants fought
+hand-to-hand with rustic weapons, and in some cases tore each other
+limb from limb. When all was done, the victors were themselves so
+sorely wounded that they were able to do nothing but lie down and
+die.'</p>
+
+<p>'How many do you think there were?' I asked, believing.</p>
+
+<p>'To judge by scent alone, not one or two; but, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span>Allah knows, perhaps a
+hundred!' said Rash&icirc;d reflectively.</p>
+
+<p>'It is strange they should have lain there undiscovered.'</p>
+
+<p>'Not strange, when one remembers that the spot is far from any village
+and probably as far from the right road,' was his reply.</p>
+
+<p>This last conjecture was disquieting; but we were both too much
+excited for anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>'It is an event to be set down in histories,' Rash&icirc;d exclaimed. 'We
+shall be famous people when we reach the village. Such news is heard
+but once in every hundred years.'</p>
+
+<p>'I wish that we could reach that village,' was my answer; and again we
+fell to picturing the strange event.</p>
+
+<p>At length we heard the barking of a dog in the far distance, and gave
+praise to Allah. A half-hour later we saw lights ahead of us. But that
+did not mean that the village was awake, Rash&icirc;d explained to me, for
+among the people of that country 'to sleep without a light' is to be
+destitute. A little later, Rash&icirc;d hammered at a door, while <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span>savage
+dogs bayed round us, making rushes at his heels.</p>
+
+<p>'Awake, O sons of honour!' was his cry. 'A great calamity!' And, when
+the door was opened, he detailed the story of an awful fight, in which
+both parties of belligerents had been exterminated. 'They are torn
+limb from limb. We saw the relics,' he explained. 'If you have any
+doubt, question my lord who is out here behind me&mdash;a great one of the
+English, famed for his veracity.'</p>
+
+<p>And I was ready to confirm each word he said.</p>
+
+<p>In a very little while that village was astir.</p>
+
+<p>It was the seat of a mud&icirc;r who had two soldiers at his beck and call.
+The great man was aroused from sleep; he questioned us, and, as the
+result of the inquiry, sent the soldiers with us to survey the
+battlefield. A crowd of peasants, armed with quarter-staves and
+carrying lanterns, came with the party out of curiosity. Our horses
+having had enough of travel, we went back on foot amid the noisy
+crowd, who questioned us incessantly about the strange event. The
+murmur of our going filled the wood and echoed from the rocks above.
+By the time we reached the place where we had seen <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span>the human limbs,
+the dawn was up, to make our lanterns useless.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d and I were certain of the spot. We came upon it with a thrill
+of apprehension.</p>
+
+<p>But there was nothing there.</p>
+
+<p>'I seek refuge in Allah!' gasped Rash&icirc;d in pious awe. 'I swear by my
+salvation it was here we saw them. The name of God be round about us!
+It is devilry.'</p>
+
+<p>Our escort was divided in opinion, some thinking we had been indeed
+the sport of devils, others that we lied. But someone sniffed and
+said:</p>
+
+<p>'There is a smell of death.'</p>
+
+<p>There was no doubt about the smell at any rate. Then one of the
+mud&icirc;r's two soldiers, searching in the brushwood, cried: 'I have the
+remnant of an arm.'</p>
+
+<p>And then an old man of the village smote his leg and cried:</p>
+
+<p>'O my friends, I see it! Here is neither lies nor devilry.'</p>
+
+<p>Laughing, he seized me by the arm and bade me come with him. We went a
+little way into the wood, and there he showed me three Druze tombs
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span>deep in the shade of ilex trees&mdash;small buildings made of stone and
+mud, like little houses, each with an opening level with the ground,
+and a much smaller opening, like a window, at the height of a man's
+elbow.</p>
+
+<p>'Thou seest?' cried my tutor. 'Those are graves. The openings on the
+ground were made too large, and jackals have got in and pulled the
+bodies out. The men who made those graves are foolish people, who have
+wandered from the truth. They think the spirits of the dead have need
+of food and light, and also of a hole for crawling in and out. I heard
+thee ask thy servant for a match just now. Come, I will show thee
+where to find one always.'</p>
+
+<p>He led me to the nearest tomb, and thrust my hand into the little hole
+which served as window. It touched a heap of matches which he bade me
+take and put into my pocket, saying:</p>
+
+<p>'It is not a theft, for the matches have been thrown away, as you
+might say. Those foolish people will suppose the dead have struck
+them. They used to put wax candles and tinder-boxes with them in the
+niches, but when these sulphur <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>matches came in fashion, they
+preferred them for economy. When I am working in this wood I take no
+fire with me, being quite sure to find the means of lighting one.
+Praise be to Allah for some people's folly!'</p>
+
+<p>I thanked him for the wrinkle, and went back to join Rash&icirc;d, who was
+exclaiming with the others over our deception. But everyone agreed
+that the mistake was natural for men bewildered in the darkness of the
+night.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXV" id="CHAPTER_XXV"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXV<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>MURDERERS</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d and I were riding down to Tripoli, and had long been looking
+for a certain 'kheymah' or refreshment booth beside the road, which an
+enterprising Christian of that town had opened in the summer months
+for the relief of travellers. When at length we came in sight of it,
+we saw a crowd of men reposing on the ground before its awning. We
+soon lost sight of them again in a ravine, and it was not till we were
+close upon them, climbing up the other bank, that I remarked that most
+of them were shackled and in charge of a small guard of Turkish
+soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>'Criminals upon their way to the hard labour prison,' said Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>'What have they done?' I asked, as we dismounted.</p>
+
+<p>He strolled across and put a question to their escort, then returned
+and told me:</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span>'They are murderers.'</p>
+
+<p>After that information it surprised me, while we ate our luncheon, to
+observe their open faces, and to hear them laugh and chatter with
+their guards. Already I had learnt that crime in Eastern countries is
+not regarded altogether as it is with us; that Orientals do not know
+that shrinking from contamination which marks the Englishman's
+behaviour towards a breaker of his country's law. But I was unprepared
+for this indulgence towards a gang of murderers. It interested me;
+and, seeing that Rash&icirc;d was talking with them in a friendly way, I
+gathered there was nothing to be feared from their proximity, and
+myself drew near when I had finished eating, and gave them cigarettes.
+They thanked me loudly. The smile of pleasure on each face expressed a
+childlike innocence. One only sat apart in gloom, conforming in some
+measure to my preconceived idea of what a murderer upon his way to
+prison ought to look like. I noticed with surprise that this one wore
+no chain. I went and touched him on the shoulder. It was only then
+that he looked up and saw that I was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span>wishing him to take a cigarette.
+He did so quickly, and saluted me without a word.</p>
+
+<p>One of the others said in tender tones:</p>
+
+<p>'Blame him not, O my lord, for he is mad with sorrow. He is more
+luckless than the rest of us&mdash;may Allah help him! He killed the person
+he loved best on earth&mdash;his only brother.'</p>
+
+<p>'Then it is true that you are murderers?' I asked, still
+half-incredulous.</p>
+
+<p>'By Allah, it is true, alas! and we are paying for it by a year's
+enslavement.'</p>
+
+<p>'A year! No more than that,' I cried, 'for killing men?'</p>
+
+<p>'And is it not enough, O lord of kindness? It is not as if we had
+killed men from malice or desire of gain. We killed in sudden anger,
+or, in the case of three among us, in a faction-fight. It is from
+Allah; and we ask forgiveness.'</p>
+
+<p>'How did that man kill?' I questioned, pointing to the apathetic
+figure of the fratricide, which attracted my imagination by its
+loneliness.</p>
+
+<p>'He suffered persecutions from a rich man of his village, who was his
+rival for the favour of a certain girl&mdash;so it is said. Those
+persecutions <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>maddened him at times. One day when he was mad like
+that, his brother came to him and spoke some word of blame upon
+another matter. He killed him, as he might have killed his wife and
+children or himself, being in that state of mind devoid of reason.
+When he awoke and saw what he had done, he wished to kill himself.'</p>
+
+<p>'It is from Allah! His remorse is punishment,' exclaimed Rash&icirc;d. 'Why
+should he go to prison? He has had enough.'</p>
+
+<p>'Nobody of this country would have thought of punishment for him,'
+replied the spokesman of the murderers, with rueful smile. 'But his
+brother was the servant of a foreign merchant&mdash;a Greek from overseas,
+I think it was&mdash;who put the business in his Consul's hands, and
+so&mdash;&mdash;' The speaker clicked his thumbnail on his white front teeth to
+signify finality. 'But the poor man himself does not object; it seems
+indeed that he is glad to go with us. Perhaps by labour and harsh
+treatment he may be relieved.'</p>
+
+<p>As there were still provisions in our saddle-bags, Rash&icirc;d, by my
+command, divided them among <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span>the company, the soldiers and the
+murderers alike, who were delighted. It was a merry party which we
+left behind, with the exception of the fratricide, who ate the food,
+when it was set before him, ravenously, but said not a word.</p>
+
+<p>'May Allah heal him!' sighed the other murderers. 'Our Lord remove
+this shadow from his mind!'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d and I pursued our way on an interminable path meandering in
+zig-zags down through brushwood, which smelt sweet of myrtle and wild
+incense. I tried to make him understand that he had quite misled me by
+the term he had applied to men who had been guilty of no more than
+manslaughter. The distinction had to be explained with much
+periphrasis, because the Arabic word 'C&acirc;til' means a slayer, and is
+given indiscriminately to all who kill.</p>
+
+<p>He caught my meaning sooner than I had expected.</p>
+
+<p>'Ah!' he said. 'Your Honour thought from what I said that they were
+"cutters of the road,"<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> or hired assassins, who kill men for gain.
+Those <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span>are the greater criminals, whose punishment is death. Few such
+exist among us. Here a robber will seldom kill a man unless that man
+kills him.' [I translate literally] 'when it is just retaliation; and
+as for hired assassins, I have known several of them in my time, and
+they are not bad people, but unfortunate, having fallen early in the
+power of cruel and ambitious men. Most of the killing in this country
+is done without a thought, in anger or mad jealousy.'</p>
+
+<p>'Is it for man to judge them?' he exclaimed, with a high shrug, when I
+remarked upon their friendly treatment by the Turkish guards. 'They
+are punished by authority down here, so we are better; but afterwards,
+when comes the Judgment of the Lord, we may be worse. It is hard upon
+those men we met just now. They go to prison, most of them, because
+they were not rich enough to pay the sum demanded as the price of
+blood. For men of wealth, or who have rich relations, it is easy to
+compound the matter for a sum of money, in return for which the dead
+man's relatives regard his death as due to natural causes, and
+forswear revenge. It is hard, I say, upon those men we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span>met just now;
+and especially upon the man who slew his brother&mdash;may Our Lord console
+him!'</p>
+
+<p>A few days later I was strolling in the town and happened to pass by
+the public gaol. In the middle of the gate, behind some iron bars, a
+wretched man stood shaking a tin can, in which some small coins
+rattled, and calling on the passers-by for alms for the poor
+prisoners. A little group of English tourists&mdash;a gentleman and two
+fair ladies&mdash;came that way, led on by a resplendent dragoman. They
+stared at the wild figure at the prison gate.</p>
+
+<p>'You like to give a trifle to the brisoners?' inquired the guide.</p>
+
+<p>'What are they in for?' asked the gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>'Murders, I guess, mostly,' shrugged the dragoman.</p>
+
+<p>'Certainly not,' replied the gentleman, with indignation.</p>
+
+<p>I ventured to approach and tell him that they were not murderers in
+our sense of the word, and that they depended for a bare subsistence
+upon public charity. The only thanks I got were a cold stare from the
+man, a fastidious grimace from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span>the two ladies, and an 'Oh, indeed!'
+so arrogant in tone that I retired discomfited. My ill-success may be
+attributable to the fact that I was wearing a 'kufiyeh' and 'ac&acirc;l' and
+so appeared to them as what is called a 'native.'</p>
+
+<p>I myself have always, since that day, felt it my duty to give alms to
+murderers in Eastern lands.</p>
+
+<br />
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<br />
+
+<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>i.e.</i>, Highwaymen.</p></div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXVI" id="CHAPTER_XXVI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXVI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE TREES ON THE LAND</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>My search for an estate provided us with an excuse for visiting all
+sorts of out-of-the-way places, and scraping acquaintance with all
+sorts of curious people. In some villages we were greeted with
+unbounded glee; in others with a sullen, gruff endurance far from
+welcome. But, though the flavour of reception varied, we were
+everywhere received with some degree of hospitality, and shown what we
+desired to see. Thus we surveyed a great variety of properties, none
+of which fulfilled my chief requirements. I wanted both a house in
+which I should not feel ashamed to live, and cultivable land enough to
+yield a revenue; and the two together seemed impossible to find, at
+least for the sum of money which was placed at my disposal.</p>
+
+<p>One piece of land attracted us so much that we remained in the
+adjacent village a full week, returning every day to wander over it,
+trying to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span>see if it could not be made to fit my needs. It consisted
+of a grove of fine old olive trees, with terraces of fig and mulberry
+trees and vegetables, spread out to catch the morning sun upon a
+mountain side sloping to a wooded valley walled by rocky heights.
+Water was there in plenty, but no house to speak of; the three small,
+cube-shaped houses on the property being in the occupation (which
+amounts to ownership) of workers of the land, who, according to the
+custom of the country, would become my partners. Upon the other hand,
+the land was fairly cheap, and after paying for it, I should have a
+balance with which I might begin to build a proper house; for, as
+Suleym&acirc;n remarked, 'here all things are done gradually. No one will
+expect to see a palace all at once. Begin with two rooms and a stable,
+and add a fresh room every time that you have forty pounds to spare.'</p>
+
+<p>The price of building appeared fixed in all that countryside at forty
+pounds a vault, which in ordinary buildings means a room, since every
+room is vaulted.</p>
+
+<p>The trouble was to see just where to put the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span>house without
+encroaching upon profitable land. At last I hit on a position in the
+middle of the highest terrace on which grew olive trees so very old
+that they could well be sacrificed. Having arrived at this decision I
+sat down among those trees and gazed in rapture at the view across the
+valley. It was indeed a grand position for a house.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d exclaimed: 'Our dwelling will be seen afar. The traveller on
+distant roads will see its windows flashing, and will certainly
+inquire the owner's name. Yet would I rather it had faced the evening
+sun, because more people are abroad at sunset than at dawn.'</p>
+
+<p>'The morning sun is better for the growth of plants, and it comports
+the evening shadow, which is most agreeable,' murmured Suleym&acirc;n, who
+stretched his length upon the ground before us, chewing a flower-stem
+with an air of wisdom.</p>
+
+<p>As we were there conversing lazily, one of the peasant-partners in the
+land came through the trees, bringing a tray with cups of coffee,
+which he had prepared for our refreshment.</p>
+
+<p>'The Lord preserve thy hands, O C&acirc;sim,' <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span>sighed Suleym&acirc;n. 'Thou comest
+at the very moment when my soul said "coffee."'</p>
+
+<p>The peasant C&acirc;sim beamed with pleasure at the thanks we showered on
+him, and, squatting down, inquired if we had yet decided anything.</p>
+
+<p>'Aye,' I replied. 'In sh'Allah we shall cut down these three olive
+trees and put the house instead of them.'</p>
+
+<p>At that his smile gave place to grave concern.</p>
+
+<p>He said: 'That may not be.'</p>
+
+<p>'Why not?' I asked.</p>
+
+<p>'Because we have no right to touch these trees.'</p>
+
+<p>'But the Sheykh Ali told me that this terrace was his property.'</p>
+
+<p>'That is so, as to the land. The trees are different.'</p>
+
+<p>'To whom, then, do these trees belong?'</p>
+
+<p>'To different people.'</p>
+
+<p>'How can I know which trees are ours, which theirs?'</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour need not trouble. They are able to distinguish.'</p>
+
+<p>'But they must walk upon our land to reach their trees!'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span>'Without a doubt.'</p>
+
+<p>'But it is unheard of!'</p>
+
+<p>'Perhaps; but it has been the way since Noah's flood.'</p>
+
+<p>'If your Honour condescends to read the Bible he will notice that, in
+the bargain which our lord Abraham made for the cave of Machpelah, the
+trees upon the land are mentioned separately,' put in Suleym&acirc;n, who
+had a well-stored mind.</p>
+
+<p>I took no notice, but continued my alarmed inquiries.</p>
+
+<p>'How many people own these trees?'</p>
+
+<p>'Twenty or thirty.'</p>
+
+<p>'And they trample on our land?'</p>
+
+<p>'The case is so.'</p>
+
+<p>'Who is their chief?'</p>
+
+<p>'I know not; but the largest share, they say, is vested in Muhammad
+abu Hasan. His share of all the trees is twelve k&icirc;r&acirc;ts, as much as all
+the others put together. They say so. Only Allah knows the truth!'</p>
+
+<p>'I should like to speak to this Muhammad abu Hasan.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span>'Upon my head; I go to fetch him,' answered C&acirc;sim, touching his brow
+in token of obedience.</p>
+
+<p>When he was gone, Suleym&acirc;n observed significantly:</p>
+
+<p>'Have naught to do with all these fathers of k&icirc;r&acirc;ts. When once the
+word "k&icirc;r&acirc;t" is mentioned, flee the place, for you may be assured that
+it is the abode of all bedevilment. When once a man is father of but
+one or two k&icirc;r&acirc;ts, he has the power of forty thousand for unreasoning
+annoyance.'</p>
+
+<p>'And what, in mercy's name, is a k&icirc;r&acirc;t?' I questioned.</p>
+
+<p>'A k&icirc;r&acirc;t,' replied Rash&icirc;d, as usual eager to explain, 'is that term
+into which all things visible and invisible are resolved and
+subdivided secretly, or may be subdivided at a person's pleasure. A
+k&icirc;r&acirc;t is that which has no real existence unless a group of men agree
+together saying: "It is here or there." A k&icirc;r&acirc;t&mdash;&mdash;'</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n cut short his explanation, saying simply: 'A k&icirc;r&acirc;t is the
+twenty-fourth part of anything. If my soul is sick, I ask the doctor:
+"How many k&icirc;r&acirc;ts of hope?" and according to his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>answer "four" or
+"twenty" I feel gladness or despair. To own but one k&icirc;r&acirc;t, in this
+concern of property, is sometimes better than to own all the remaining
+three-and-twenty, as witness the affair of Johha, the greatest
+wiseacre this country has produced. Johha owned a house, consisting of
+a single room. Wishing to make a little money, he let his house to
+people for a yearly rent (which they paid in advance), reserving to
+himself the use of only one k&icirc;r&acirc;t of it. To show where his k&icirc;r&acirc;t was
+situated Johha drove a peg into the wall inside. After the tenants had
+been in a week he brought a bag of beans and hung it on his peg. No
+one objected; he was exercising his free right. A few days later he
+removed the bag of beans and hung up garlic in its place. Again a few
+days and he came with an old cat which had been some time dead; and so
+on, bringing ever more offensive things, until the tenants were
+obliged to leave the house and forfeit their year's rent, without
+redress, since Johha was within his rights. Therefore I say to you,
+beware. These fathers of k&icirc;r&acirc;ts will spoil the property.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d gave an appreciative chuckle, and was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span>going to relate some
+story of his own; but just then C&acirc;sim reappeared, attended not by one
+man only but a score of men&mdash;the owners of the trees, as it
+immediately appeared, for they cried out, as they came up, that it
+would be a sin for us to cut them down.</p>
+
+<p>I asked them to elect a spokesman, as I could not deal with all at
+once, and Muhammad abu Hasan was pushed forward. He squatted, facing
+me, upon the ground, his men behind him. The twigs and leaves of
+olives overhead spread a filigree of moving shade upon their puckered
+faces. They were evidently much perturbed in mind.</p>
+
+<p>I asked them for how much they would consent to sell those
+trees&mdash;showing the three I wished to fell to clear a space for
+building.</p>
+
+<p>'The freehold, meanest thou?' inquired their spokesman anxiously. 'Not
+for five hundred pounds. But we would sell a share.'</p>
+
+<p>'I want no share. I want to cut them down.'</p>
+
+<p>At that there was a general outcry that it must not be.</p>
+
+<p>'The trees would remain yours until the end,' I told them, 'for I
+would let you have the wood <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span>for your own purposes, and, in addition,
+you would have a pretty sum of money.'</p>
+
+<p>There ensued a long and whispered consultation before Muhammad abu
+Hasan answered me. At length he said:</p>
+
+<p>'It may not be. Behold, we all are the descendants of one man who
+owned these trees in ancient days. But we are not brothers, nor yet
+uncles' children, and there is jealousy among us. We quarrel near to
+fighting every year about the produce of these trees, each man
+perceiving that he has been cheated of his proper share. But that is
+not so very serious, for each man hopes that next year he will get a
+larger share in compensation. Suppose, instead of trees which bear
+fruit every year, we had a sum of money. In that case the division
+would admit of no redress, and those who thought themselves defrauded
+would bear lifelong malice. Therefore I say: We will not have those
+trees cut down; but we are prepared, upon the other hand, to sell you
+all our trees upon this terrace if you, on your side, will assign to
+us but two k&icirc;r&acirc;ts of all your trees, these trees included.'</p>
+
+<p>'Allah destroy the dwelling of your two k&icirc;r&acirc;ts,' <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span>I cried out angrily.
+'I will have none of them. Nor will I make my dwelling in the
+neighbourhood of men so foolish. I shall seek elsewhere.'</p>
+
+<p>The peasants chuckled at my curse on the k&icirc;r&acirc;ts. They murmured an
+apology, but seemed relieved, as they went off.</p>
+
+<p>Suleym&acirc;n, who had to leave us on the following day, then gave me good
+advice.</p>
+
+<p>He said: 'It is no use for thee to deal with little people who wish to
+make the most of their small lands, who have mean, dirty houses. Thou
+hast a friend among the great sheykhs of the Dr&ucirc;z. Go to him in his
+castle and explain thy wish. He owns a score of noble houses which he
+does not use, and for the love of thee he will not count the price too
+closely. Moreover, he will think that, showing favour to an
+Englishman, he will earn the good opinion of the British Government.
+He has political ambitions. All great men are fools or malefactors.'</p>
+
+<p>'That is the best of counsel,' said Rash&icirc;d. And, having nothing else
+in mind, we acted on it.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXVII" id="CHAPTER_XXVII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXVII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>BUYING A HOUSE</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Even great men in the East rise early; so, when I arrived before the
+castle of the great Druze chief at six o'clock of a summer's morning,
+I was not surprised to find a crowd of black-cloaked and
+white-turbaned mountaineers already waiting for an audience of his
+grace; nor yet, when I had gained admittance as a favoured person, to
+find the chief himself afoot and wide awake. What did surprise me was
+to see him clad in Stamb&ucirc;li frock-coat and all its stiff
+accompaniments at an hour when even the most civilised of Pashas still
+wears native dress. He heard of my desire to settle in his country
+with surprise and seeming pleasure, and made me sit beside him on a
+sofa in an upper chamber of magnificent proportions&mdash;spoilt, to my
+taste, by gaudy Frankish furniture and certain oleographs of the
+crowned heads of Europe which adorned its walls.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>He thought, as is the way of Orientals, visibly, with finger pressed
+to brow. Then he exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'I have a house close by, across the glen&mdash;a little ruinous, perhaps,
+but we can soon repair it. Come to the window; you can see the place
+from here.' He pointed out a kind of thickset tower which crowned a
+pretty village set in orchards. 'If you care to see it we will go
+there when I have received my people.'</p>
+
+<p>He invited me to go with him to the reception; but, having seen the
+crowd outside, I thought it wisdom to go back rather to the village
+khan where I had left my horse, to warn Rash&icirc;d to have things ready
+for a start, and get some breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>I returned in two hours' time, to find the chief already mounted on a
+splendid charger, led by a no less splendid servant, setting forth in
+search of me, 'with half the world for tail,' as Rash&icirc;d put it.</p>
+
+<p>It was in truth a long procession which meandered down the steep and
+rocky pathway, deep in the shade of walls and overhanging trees, to
+the ravine, forded the stream, and climbed the other bank.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span>The village, when we reached it, was in great commotion, all its
+people crowding to the wide meyd&acirc;n, or levelled ground for
+horsemanship, spread out before the house which might be mine. In the
+midst of this meyd&acirc;n there was a fine old carob tree, with a stone
+bench all round the foot of its enormous trunk.</p>
+
+<p>The house itself was an old fortress, built of solid stone, with arrow
+slits as well as modern windows, and an arched doorway at the top of
+wide stone steps. Against it nestled lesser houses of the village
+which seemed to climb up towards it for protection.</p>
+
+<p>Some men of consequence came forth to greet the chief, who then
+dismounted with their servile aid. He introduced me to a turbaned
+Druze of reverend appearance, who (he said) at present occupied the
+house, and also to the son of the said turbaned Druze, who knew a
+little French and longed to air it.</p>
+
+<p>The turbaned one, whose name was Sheykh Huseyn, was called on to
+refresh his chieftain's memory with regard to various details of the
+house and property and all the feudal rights and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>privileges
+appertaining thereunto. He did so, as in duty bound, but in a very
+mournful tone.</p>
+
+<p>His son explained: Tu fiens habiter, nous defons quitter. Mon b&egrave;re
+n'aime bas quitter. Tr&egrave;s bon march&eacute;'&mdash;from which I guessed that they
+had occupied the house rent-free till they had come to look upon it as
+their own.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving aside the land, which we should visit presently, the owner of
+the house, I was informed, had jurisdiction over the meyd&acirc;n, which was
+in times of peace the village square, and owned one-fifth part of the
+great tree in its midst. He also owned a fifth of all the water
+flowing or to flow from the great village spring; and had the right to
+call upon the fell&acirc;h&icirc;n for one day's work a year in return for his
+protection of their land from enemies. When I inquired by what means I
+could possibly secure my fifth share of the water from the spring, the
+chief informed me that the stipulation was in case the source
+diminished in dry seasons, which, thank the Lord, it never yet had
+done.</p>
+
+<p>We viewed the house, and I was pleased with the great vaulted rooms,
+in which the pots and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span>pans and bedding of the Sheykh Huseyn appeared
+like nothing, and the women of the family of Sheykh Huseyn,
+close-veiled against our inroad, made themselves exceeding small; and
+then, remounting, we went off to view the land. This was scattered all
+about the mountain side&mdash;a terrace here, a terrace there. It took us a
+long while to see the whole of it.</p>
+
+<p>The chief, fatigued, alighted and sat down beneath some walnut trees.
+He ordered Sheykh Huseyn to cause refreshments to appear. The latter
+shouted, and a dozen villagers went tearing off. In a very little time
+a meal of honeyed cakes and fruit was set before us, and the ceremony
+of making coffee was in progress on a brazier near us in the shade.</p>
+
+<p>'Allah! Allah!' sighed the Sheykh Huseyn, telling his beads.</p>
+
+<p>'Mon b&egrave;re est triste, tu vois. Il aime bas quitter,' murmured his
+hopeful son in tones of high delight, the feeling proper to express
+before a new acquaintance of my quality.</p>
+
+<p>'Curse the religion of these flies! It is extremely hot!' exclaimed
+the chief in momentary irritation.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span>The trees went with the land without exception, I was glad to hear.
+One-fifth of all the produce of that land of any kind whatever would
+be mine, the rest belonging to the husbandmen by immemorial right.
+There was never such a thing as wages for the cultivation of the land.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheykh Huseyn implored us to return to luncheon at his house,
+protesting that he had commanded a great feast to be prepared; but the
+chief declared we were too busy to allow ourselves that pleasure. As
+we were then some way below the village, we did not go back thither,
+but rode off along a path through orchards till we found the road to
+the ravine.</p>
+
+<p>At taking leave, the eyes of Sheykh Huseyn met mine a moment. They
+were large, benevolent, brown eyes, and they expressed much inward
+sorrow, while on his lips there broke the smile demanded of
+politeness.</p>
+
+<p>'Au refoir, mon cher! Au blaisir!' cried his hopeful son.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d came up behind me as we rode along, and poured into my ear a
+wondrous tale of how the Sheykh Huseyn was our ill-wisher and would
+do <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span>his best to make things lively for us if we took the place. He had
+conversed with people of the village while we viewed the house.</p>
+
+<p>'But the majority are in our favour,' he assured me, with grave
+satisfaction. 'They do not love the Sheykh Huseyn, who is a miser and
+a hypocrite. They say, please God, we shall humiliate him to the very
+depth of shame.'</p>
+
+<p>He spoke as if we were at war, and within sight of victory, as if we
+were already settled in the place. And I was glad, because it augured
+well for my content if I should buy the place, which I was now
+resolved to do if I could anyhow afford it.</p>
+
+<p>'The price will be too great, I fear,' was my reply; whereat he
+sighed, observing that the place was of a nature to exalt our honour.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the castle of the chieftain, I was ushered to his private
+chamber, where I broached at once the burning question of the price.
+He said: 'God knows I wish to give thee house and land since thou
+desirest them. But I have a mortgage on some other lands of mine which
+vexes me, because, though I can find the interest&mdash;which is
+exorbitant&mdash;each year, I cannot in this country <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span>lay my hands upon the
+principal. Discharge that debt for me and, God reward thee, take the
+house and land.'</p>
+
+<p>He named a sum of money. I could not believe my ears, it was so little
+as compared with what I judged to be the value of the property. It was
+well within the sum at my disposal. I wished to write a cheque out
+there and then; but he forbade me, saying: 'Allah knows I might mislay
+the paper or destroy it in a moment of forgetfulness. Do thou in
+kindness pay my creditor and bring me the discharge.'</p>
+
+<p>He named an Armenian gentleman of my acquaintance&mdash;an amiable, learned
+man of modest means, the last person in the country whom I should have
+thought a usurer. Nor was he one habitually, for he himself informed
+me that this loan to the Druze chieftain was his sole investment of
+the kind. I called on him one afternoon in the city, and handed him my
+cheque, explaining how the matter stood.</p>
+
+<p>'You do me a bad turn. Unlucky day!' he sighed as he received it. 'My
+little fortune was more safe with him than in a bank, and every year
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span>it brought me in a pretty income. Where can I find another such
+investment.'</p>
+
+<p>With groans he wrote out the receipt, which in due time I carried to
+the chief, who thanked me and assured me that the house was mine and
+should be made so formally.</p>
+
+<p>I then rode over to the house again, and with Rash&icirc;d planned out the
+changes we desired to make, the Sheykh Huseyn following us about
+gloomily, and his cheerful son bestowing on us his advice in broken
+French. They knew their tenancy was at an end. The Sheykh, resigned at
+length to the inevitable, sought to establish good relations with me;
+and he also gave us counsel, which Rash&icirc;d, who viewed him as our
+deadly foe, at once rejected. Under these rebuffs the old man became
+quite obsequious.</p>
+
+<p>His son exclaimed excitedly: 'Mon b&egrave;re est heureux, tu vois. If feut
+bas quitter. Il feut rester afec toi comme chef de serfice.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXVIII" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXVIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>A DISAPPOINTMENT</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Considering that I had bought a house and land exactly to my taste,
+and likely, as Rash&icirc;d declared, to raise our honour in the country, I
+felt that I had earned the right to take a holiday. Whenever I have
+done anything decisive it is my instinct to withdraw myself a little
+from the scene of action and inure myself by contemplation to the new
+position of affairs. Accordingly, having surveyed the house and land
+as owner, I set off with Rash&icirc;d upon a ten days' journey beyond the
+reach of telegrams and letters.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the ten days we rode into Beyrout, and put up at a
+little hostelry, which we frequented, built out on piers above the
+sea. There I found two letters waiting for me, one from the great
+Druze chief who sold to me my house and land.</p>
+
+<p>'Never,' he wrote, 'have I had to endure such <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span>disrespect and
+ignominy. It is not at all what I expected from your friendship. In
+obedience to the Consul's order, I wrote express to the Khaw&acirc;jah &mdash;&mdash;,
+my creditor, informing him that there had been some error and
+entreating him to send your cheque in to the British Consulate. I hope
+to God you have received it safely before this. My health has suffered
+from this huge indignity. I shall not long survive this cruel shame.'</p>
+
+<p>The second letter was from Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General,
+enclosing my cheque written to the order of the Armenian gentleman for
+the amount of the mortgage which he held upon my Druze friend's
+property, and adjuring me to pay a visit to the Consulate without
+delay.</p>
+
+<p>I went that afternoon. The outer office was crowded with the usual set
+of English and would-be English persons who went there for gossip. My
+appearance called forth more or less derisive shouts. I was a nice
+young man to go and buy a village&mdash;from a native, too!&mdash;without the
+forethought to secure a title to the property! It was plain that they
+knew more about the matter than <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span>I did myself. I felt ashamed, and
+must have looked dejected, I suppose, for they changed their tone for
+one more genial, crying: 'Cheer up, man! We've all been through it.
+You know now what these devils really are. They'll always do you, if
+they can. It's no shame to you at your age. They're so devilish
+clever.'</p>
+
+<p>I did not know then, nor do I know to-day, that I had ever been
+defrauded seriously, or deceived, by any native of the country, but
+the legend ran, and doubtless runs, to that effect.</p>
+
+<p>Then I was called into the Consul's presence and strongly blamed by
+him for running off just at the moment when my presence was most
+needed. I had written joyously to tell him of my purchase. I now heard
+that I should have waited for his reply before concluding it. A man
+does not buy tracts of land like that, I was severely told. And as I
+was so very young and (he implied it) idiotic, he had intervened to
+stop the sale, pending inquiries and the discharge of certain
+formalities which were legally required. If the seller went into the
+court and had the transfer registered and a proper deed of sale made
+out, then well and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span>good; but he understood that there was some
+objection on the seller's part. If not, then he advised me to give up
+the whole idea. Profoundly conscious of my youth, and mindful of past
+kindness on the Consul's part, I was, of course, impressed. I thought
+I had indeed been foolish, even mad; and promised to do all that he
+required of me. As I went through the outer office, looking more than
+ever downcast, I was hailed with further adjurations to cheer up, for
+they had all been through it.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d was more depressed than even I was when I told him of the
+sudden downfall of our hopes. He cursed the Consul and the Druzes
+indiscriminately. But on our journey up into the mountains his
+reconstructive mind transfigured my misfortunes, making of them an
+event well calculated to 'exalt our honour.' So great was my
+consideration in my native country that the Queen herself had written
+to the Consul-General to take care of me and see that I was not
+defrauded when I bought my land. The Consul, who had been neglectful
+of me, and knew nothing of the land <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span>I wished to buy, had been afraid
+of the Queen's anger, hence his mad activity. I did not hear that
+version at the time, nor from Rash&icirc;d's own lips; but it came to my
+ears eventually, after its vogue was past.</p>
+
+<p>We both hoped, however, that the house and land would yet be ours.</p>
+
+<p>I found the Druze chief prostrate with humiliation and bewilderment.
+He greeted me with monstrous sighs, and told me how ashamed he was,
+how very ill. His eyes reproached me. What had he ever done to me that
+I should loose upon him such a swarm of ignominies. I felt humiliated
+and ashamed before him, an honourable man who had been treated like a
+rogue on my account.</p>
+
+<p>'I shall not survive these insults, well I know it. I shall die,' he
+kept lamenting. 'All my people know the way I have been treated&mdash;like
+a dog.'</p>
+
+<p>I told him that there had been a misunderstanding, and that the shame
+which he had suffered had been all my fault, because I had been absent
+for my selfish pleasure at the moment when I might have saved him by a
+simple statement of the facts.</p>
+
+<p>'I shall not easily recover,' the chief groaned. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span>'And then that debt
+which I was so delighted to pay off is once again upon my shoulders.'</p>
+
+<p>I explained then that the Consul's stopping of the sale was not
+conclusive, but provisional; his only stipulation being that, before I
+paid, all the legal formalities necessary to the transfer should have
+been fulfilled.</p>
+
+<p>'He asks no more than that your Excellency will condescend to go
+before the Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m with witnesses, and have a proper title-deed made
+out.'</p>
+
+<p>At those words, uttered in all innocence, the great man shuddered
+violently and his face went green. I feared that he would have a fit,
+but he recovered gradually; and at last he said: 'It is a cruel
+thought, and one which must have been suggested to him by my enemies.
+Know that the Ca&iuml;mmac&acirc;m at present is my rival and most deadly foe. We
+have not met on terms of speech for many years; our servants fight at
+chance encounters on the road. It is but five years since I held the
+post of Governor which he now occupies. When, by means of calumny and
+foul intrigue against me at Stamboul, he managed to supplant me, I
+swore a solemn oath that I would never recognise the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span>Government nor
+seek its sanction so long as he remained its representative. And now
+the Consul bids me have recourse to him. By Allah, I would sooner be
+impaled alive.'</p>
+
+<p>He paused a moment, swallowing his rage, then added:</p>
+
+<p>'This, however, I will do. I will summon all the chiefs of all my
+people&mdash;every head of every family&mdash;hither to your presence and
+command them all to witness that the property is yours. I will make
+them swear to defend you and your successors in possession of it with
+their lives if need be, and to leave the obligation as a sacred charge
+to their descendants. That, I think, would be sufficient to assure you
+undisturbed possession if I die, as well I may, of this unheard-of
+treatment. And if I live till happier times&mdash;that is, to see the
+downfall of my enemy&mdash;then you shall have the Government certificate
+which the Consul deems of such immense importance.'</p>
+
+<p>I now know that the kind of treaty which he thus proposed, laying a
+solemn charge on all his people&mdash;who would have been, of course, my
+neighbours&mdash;to defend my right, would have been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span>worth a good deal
+more than any legal document in that wild country. The Armenian
+gentleman, who was delighted that his mortgage still held good, told
+me as much when next I saw him in the city. He thought me foolish not
+to jump at it, particularly when the land was offered to me for a
+song. But the Consul's prohibition, and the warnings of the English
+colony, possessed more weight with me just then than his opinion, or,
+indeed, my own, for I was very young.</p>
+
+<p>I told the chieftain it was not enough.</p>
+
+<p>'Then I am truly sorry,' he replied, with dignity; 'but there the
+matter ends. I have told your Honour the reason why I cannot go to
+court at present.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d was sad when I informed him of my failure. Once more he cursed
+the Druzes and all Consuls. And as we rode back through the mountains
+he was wrapped in thought. He came at length to the conclusion that
+this, too, redounded to our honour, since anybody less exalted than
+ourselves would certainly have jumped at such an offer as the chief
+had made to me. But everything, for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span>us, must be performed in the most
+perfect manner. We were tremendous sticklers for formality.</p>
+
+<p>There was only one thing he could not get over.</p>
+
+<p>'It is the triumph of our enemy, that Sheykh Huseyn,' he told me. 'I
+hate to think of him in comfort in our house.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXIX" id="CHAPTER_XXIX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXIX<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>CONCERNING CRIME AND PUNISHMENT</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>If we wished to stay in any place for more than a day or two, Rash&icirc;d,
+upon arrival, wandered through the markets and inquired what dwellings
+were to let, while I sat down and waited in some coffee-house. Within
+an hour he would return with tidings of a decent lodging, whither we
+at once repaired with our belongings, stabling our horses at the
+nearest khan.</p>
+
+<p>My servant was an expert in the art of borrowing, so much so that no
+sound of disputation on that subject reached my ears. It seemed as if
+the neighbours came, delighted, of their own accord to lend us pots
+and pans and other necessaries. He also did the cooking and the
+marketing without a hitch, giving a taste of home to the small
+whitewashed chamber, which we had rented for a week, it might be, or a
+month at most.</p>
+
+<p>When obliged to go out upon any errand, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span>Rash&icirc;d was always worried
+about leaving me alone, regarding me as careless of my property and so
+untrusty from the point of view of one who idolised it.</p>
+
+<p>'If your Honour should be seized with a desire to smell the air when I
+am absent,' he would say, 'do not forget to lock the door and place
+the key in the appointed hiding-place where I can find it. There are
+wicked people in the world. And while you sit alone, keep our revolver
+handy.'</p>
+
+<p>He told me that in cities robberies of private dwellings are oftener
+committed at high noon, when many houses are left empty, than at
+night, when they are full of snoring folk. I did not doubt the truth
+of this assertion, but differed from him in believing that we
+harboured nothing likely to attract a thief.</p>
+
+<p>'I would not lose the buckle of a strap, a single grain of sesame, by
+such foul means,' he would reply with vehemence.</p>
+
+<p>One morning&mdash;it was in Damascus&mdash;he went out, after imploring me as
+usual to take care of everything. The room we occupied was at the end
+of a blind alley, up a flight of nine stone steps. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span>alley led into
+a crowded, narrow street, bordered with shops of many-coloured wares,
+which at that point was partly shaded by a fine old ilex tree. From
+where I sprawled upon a bed of borrowed cushions in the room, reading
+a chap-book I had lately purchased&mdash;<i>The Rare Things of Abu Naww&acirc;s</i>&mdash;I
+saw the colour and the movement of that street as at the far end of a
+dark kaleidoscope, for all the space between was in deep shadow.</p>
+
+<p>When a man turned up our alley&mdash;a most rare occurrence&mdash;I noticed his
+appearance. It was rather strange. He wore an old blue shirt, and on
+his head a kind of turban, but of many colours and, unlike any I had
+ever seen upon the natives of the country, with an end or streamer
+hanging loose upon one side. In complexion, too, he was a good deal
+darker than a Syrian, and yet had nothing of the negro in his looks.
+Something furtive in his manner of approach amused me, as suggestive
+of the thief of Rash&icirc;d's nightmares. I moved into the darkest corner
+of the room and lay quite still. He climbed our steps and filled the
+doorway, looking in.</p>
+
+<p>It happened that Rash&icirc;d had left a bag of lentils, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span>bought that
+morning, just inside. The thief seized that and, thinking he was
+unobserved, was going to look round for other spoil, when I sat up and
+asked to know his business. He gave one jump, replied: 'It is no
+matter,' and was gone immediately. I watched him running till he
+vanished in the crowded street.</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d returned. I told him what had happened in his absence, but he
+did not smile. He asked me gravely to describe the man's appearance,
+and, when I did so, groaned: 'It is a N&ucirc;ri (gipsy). Who knows their
+lurking-places? Had it been a townsman or a villager I might perhaps
+have caught him and obtained redress.' He said this in a manner of
+soliloquy before he turned to me, and, with reproachful face,
+exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'He stole our bag of lentils and you watched him steal it! You had at
+hand our good revolver, yet you did not shoot!'</p>
+
+<p>'Why should I shoot a man for such a trifle?'</p>
+
+<p>'It is not the dimensions or the value of the object stolen that your
+Honour ought to have considered, but the crime! The man who steals a
+bag of lentils thus deliberately is a wicked man, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span>and when a man is
+wicked he deserves to die; and he expects it.'</p>
+
+<p>I told him that the gipsy was quite welcome to the lentils, but he
+would not entertain that point of view. After trying vainly to
+convince me of my failure to perform a social duty, he went out to the
+establishment of a coffee-seller across the street, who kept his cups
+and brazier in the hollow trunk of the old ilex tree, and set stools
+for his customers beneath its shade, encroaching on the public street.
+Thither I followed after a few minutes, and found him telling
+everybody of the theft. Those idlers all agreed with him that it was
+right to shoot a thief.</p>
+
+<p>'All for a bag of lentils!' I retorted loftily. 'God knows I do not
+grudge as much to any man.'</p>
+
+<p>At that there rose a general cry of 'God forbid!' while one explained:</p>
+
+<p>'It were a sin to refuse such a thing to a poor man in need who came
+and begged for it in Allah's name. But men who take by stealth or
+force are different. Think if your Honour had destroyed that thief,
+the rascal would not now be robbing poorer folk, less able to sustain
+the loss! Suppose <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span>that bag of lentils had been all you had! There may
+be people in the world as poor as that.'</p>
+
+<p>'Why should I kill a man who offered me no violence?' I asked
+defiantly.</p>
+
+<p>'Why should you not do so, when the man is evidently wicked?'</p>
+
+<p>'Why do the Franks object to killing wicked people?' asked the
+coffee-seller with a laugh. 'Why do they nourish good and bad in their
+society?'</p>
+
+<p>'It is because they are without religion,' muttered one man in his
+beard.</p>
+
+<p>An elder of superior rank, who overheard, agreed with him, pronouncing
+in a tone of gentle pity:</p>
+
+<p>'It is because they lose belief in Allah and the life to come. They
+deem this fleeting life the only one vouchsafed to man, and death the
+last and worst catastrophe that can befall him. When they have killed
+a man they think they have destroyed him quite; and, as each one of
+them fears such destruction for himself if it became the mode, they
+condemn killing in their laws and high assemblies. We, when we kill a
+person, know that it is not the end. Both killed and killer will be
+judged by One <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span>who knows the secrets of men's breasts. The killed is
+not deprived of every hope. For us, death is an incident: for them,
+the end. Moreover, they have no idea of sacrifice. Killing, with them,
+is always the result of hate.'</p>
+
+<p>'What does your Honour mean by that last saying?' I inquired with
+warmth.</p>
+
+<p>The old man smiled on me indulgently as he made answer sadly:</p>
+
+<p>'Be not offended if we speak our mind before you. We should not do so
+if we wished you ill. Here, among us, it is not an unheard-of thing
+for men to kill the creatures they love best on earth; nor do men
+blame them when, by so doing, they have served the cause of God, which
+is the welfare of mankind. Thus it was of old the rule, approved of
+all the world, that every Sultan of the line of Othman had to kill his
+brothers lest they should rise against him and disturb the peace of
+all the realm. Was it not like depriving life of all its sweetness
+thus to destroy their youth's companions and their nearest kin? Yet,
+though their hearts were in the bodies of their victims, they
+achieved <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span>it. And the victims met their death with the like fortitude,
+all save a few of less heroic mould.</p>
+
+<p>'Now, I have read some histories written by the Europeans. They do not
+understand these things at all. They think us merely cruel&mdash;just as
+we, in the same unperceiving manner, think them merely covetous. Yet I
+disagree with your good servant in the present case. I think that you
+were right to spare that N&ucirc;ri.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d, who, with the rest of the assembly, had listened to the old
+man's speech with reverence, exclaimed:</p>
+
+<p>'It is not just this N&ucirc;ri or that bag of lentils, O my lord! My master
+is thus careless always. He never locks the door when he goes out
+during my absence, though all that we possess is in that room.'</p>
+
+<p>'Thy lord is young.' The old man smiled upon me kindly, and proceeded
+then to read me a mild lecture on my carelessness, detailing to me the
+precautions which he took himself, habitually, when shutting up his
+house or place of business, including pious formulas which he made me
+repeat after him. While he was thus instructing me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span>Rash&icirc;d went off,
+returning in about three minutes with a face of indignation strangely
+and incongruously mixed with triumph.</p>
+
+<p>Taking his stand before me in the very middle of the seated crowd, he
+said:</p>
+
+<p>'You left the door wide open even after you had seen that N&ucirc;ri steal
+the bag of lentils. I have this minute been to look and I have seen.
+With our revolver lying in the full light of the doorway! Merciful
+Allah! What is to be done with you?'</p>
+
+<p>The old man, my preceptor, laughed aloud; and at the sound Rash&icirc;d,
+whose desperation was not acted, wept real tears. The people round us
+tried in vain to comfort him.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXX" id="CHAPTER_XXX"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXX<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE UNWALLED VINEYARD</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>One morning, as we rode along, we came to vineyards on a valley-side.
+Rash&icirc;d dismounted and began to pick the grapes. Suleym&acirc;n dismounted
+likewise, and invited me to do the same.</p>
+
+<p>'But it is stealing,' I objected.</p>
+
+<p>'Allah! Allah!' moaned Suleym&acirc;n, as one past patience. He hung his
+head a moment, limp all over, as if the spirit had been taken out of
+him; then called out to Rash&icirc;d, who was devouring grapes:</p>
+
+<p>'Return, O malefactor, O most wicked robber! Thou art guilty of a
+fearful crime. Thy master says so.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d came back to us immediately, bringing a purple bunch, which he
+was going to give to me when Suleym&acirc;n prevented him, exclaiming:</p>
+
+<p>'Wouldst dishonour our good lord by placing in his hands the fruit of
+infamy, as if he were a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span>vile accomplice of thy crime? For shame, O
+sinful depredator, O defrauder of the poor!'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d gaped at him, and then looked at me. I held out my hand for the
+grapes.</p>
+
+<p>'Touch them not, for they are stolen!' cried Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'I know not what thou wouldst be at, O evil joker,' said Rash&icirc;d, with
+warmth; 'but if thou callest me a thief again, I'll break thy head.'</p>
+
+<p>'<i>I</i> call thee thief? Thou art mistaken, O my soul! By Allah! I am but
+the mouthpiece of thy master here, who says that to pluck grapes out
+of this vineyard is to steal.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d looked towards me, half incredulous, and, seeing that I ate the
+grapes with gusto, answered with a laugh:</p>
+
+<p>'He does not understand our customs, that is all. By Allah! there is
+no man in this land so churlish or so covetous as to begrudge to
+thirsty wayfarers a bunch of grapes out of his vineyard or figs or
+apricots from trees beside the road. To go into the middle of the
+vineyard and pick fruit there would be wrong, but to gather from the
+edge is quite allowable. If we were to come with sumpter-mules <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span>and
+load them with the grapes, that would be robbery; but who but the most
+miserly would blame us for picking for our own refreshment as we pass,
+any more than he would stop the needy from gleaning in the fields when
+corn is cut. What your Honour thinks a crime, with us is reckoned as a
+kindness done and taken.'</p>
+
+<p>'Aye,' said Suleym&acirc;n, whose gift was for interpretations, 'and in the
+same way other matters which your Honour blames in us as faults are in
+reality but laudable and pious uses. Thus, it is customary here among
+us to allow the servant to help himself a little to his master's
+plenty in so far as food and means of living are concerned. The
+servant, being wholly given to his master's service, having no other
+means of living, still must live; aye, and support a wife and children
+if he have them; and it is the custom of our great ones to pay little
+wages, because they have but little ready money. Upon the other hand,
+they have possessions and wide influence, in which each servant is
+their partner to a small extent. No one among them would object to
+such small profits as that cook of yours, whom you condemned so
+fiercely, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span>made while in your service. If the master does not care to
+let the servant gain beyond his wages, he must pay him wages high
+enough for his existence&mdash;certainly higher wages than you paid that
+cook.'</p>
+
+<p>'I paid him what he asked,' I said indignantly.</p>
+
+<p>'And he asked what he thought sufficient in consideration of the
+profits he felt sure of making in your service&mdash;a foreigner and a
+young man of many wants.'</p>
+
+<p>'I had told him that thou art of all men living the most generous!'
+put in Rash&icirc;d. My dismissal of that cook had long been rankling in his
+mind. 'It is the custom of the country,' he subjoined, defiantly.</p>
+
+<p>'It is a custom which I very heartily dislike,' I answered. 'It seems
+to me that people here are always grasping. Look at the prices which
+the merchants ask, the way they bargain. They fight for each para as
+if it were their soul's salvation. They are mad for gain.'</p>
+
+<p>'Again you are mistaken,' answered Suleym&acirc;n. 'They do not ask too much
+from avarice, but for the sake of pastime. Indeed, you will find
+sometimes that the price they ask is less than the real <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span>value of the
+object, and still they let the buyer beat it down&mdash;for mere amusement
+of the argument and for the sake of seeing what devices he will use.
+In addition, they will give the buyer a nice cup of coffee&mdash;sometimes
+two cups of coffee if the argument is long&mdash;and as many glasses full
+of sherbet as he cares to drink.'</p>
+
+<p>'And if the buyer will not pay the price, though much reduced, the
+merchant often will present the object to him, as happened to your
+Honour in Aleppo only the other day,' put in Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>'That was only a device to shame me into buying it.'</p>
+
+<p>'No, by your Honour's leave!'</p>
+
+<p>'Rash&icirc;d may well be right,' said Suleym&acirc;n, 'although I cannot judge of
+the peculiar instance since I was not present.'</p>
+
+<p>Just then we came around a shoulder of the hill, and saw some people,
+men and women, harvesting the grapes in a much larger vineyard.</p>
+
+<p>'Now you shall see!' exclaimed Rash&icirc;d exultantly. He got down off his
+horse and stooped over the nearest vines. The workers, seeing him, set
+up a shout of 'Itfaddal&ucirc;!' (perform a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span>kindness), the usual form of
+hospitable invitation. Since we refused to join them in the middle of
+the vineyard a man came wading towards us, bearing on his head a
+basket tray piled up with grapes. Suleym&acirc;n picked out three monstrous
+clusters, one for each of us, with blessings on the giver. To my offer
+of payment the fell&acirc;h opposed a serious refusal, saying: 'It would be
+a shame for me.'</p>
+
+<p>'You see now!' said Rash&icirc;d, as we resumed our way. 'It is not robbery
+for wayfarers to take refreshment.'</p>
+
+<p>'And as for the custom of the merchants,' added Suleym&acirc;n, 'in asking a
+much higher price than that which they at last accept, what would you
+have? Those merchants are rich men, who have enough for all their
+needs. Their aim is not that of the Frankish traders: to increase
+their wealth by all means and outdistance rivals. Their object is to
+pass the time agreeably and, to that end, detain the customer as long
+as possible, the more so if he be a person like your Honour, who loves
+jokes and laughter. The greatest disappointment to our merchants is
+for the customer to pay the price first <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span>asked and so depart
+immediately. I have a rare thing in my memory which hits the case.</p>
+
+<p>'Everyone has heard of Abdu, the great Egyptian singer, who died
+recently. His only daughter met her death in a distressing way. It was
+her wedding night, and bride and bridegroom died of suffocation owing
+to the scent of flowers and perfumes in the bedroom where they lay. At
+sight of the two corpses Abdu broke his lute and swore a solemn oath
+never to sing again.</p>
+
+<p>'He was rich&mdash;for he had earned much by his singing, often as much as
+a hundred pounds a night&mdash;and he sought some means to pass the time
+till death should come for him. He took a shop in Cairo, and hoped for
+pleasant conversation in the course of bargaining. But the Egyptians
+wished to hear him sing again, and men of wealth among them planned
+together to buy up his whole stock-in-trade immediately. This happened
+thrice, to the despair of Abdu, who saw his hope of pastime taken from
+him. In the end he was compelled to get the C&acirc;di to release him from
+his vow, and sing again, although he would have much preferred to be a
+merchant. That shows the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span>difference between a trader in our cities
+and one in any city of the Franks, whose sole desire is to sell
+quickly and repeatedly.'</p>
+
+<p>'There is no accounting for tastes,' was my reply. 'For my part I
+detest this bargaining.'</p>
+
+<p>'When that is understood by decent merchants they will not afflict
+thee. They will ask thee a fair price and let thee go&mdash;though with
+regret, for they would rather spend an hour in talk with thee,' said
+Suleym&acirc;n indulgently. 'It is a game of wits which most men like.' He
+shrugged his shoulders.</p>
+
+<p>'Your Honour was relating yesterday,' observed Rash&icirc;d, with grievance
+in his tone, 'how an Englishman of your acquaintance in our country
+accused his servants of dishonesty. Doubtless he distrusted them and
+locked things up, which is the same as saying to them: "It is my locks
+and my vigilance against your wits." Few men of spirit could resist a
+challenge such as that, which is indeed to urge men on to robbery. But
+where the master trusts his servants and leaves all things to their
+care, only a son of infamy would dream of robbing him.'</p>
+
+<p>'Let me propound the matter otherwise for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span>understanding. Seeing that
+open vineyard, with a wall but two stones high, no man would think of
+plundering the crop of grapes. But surround that vineyard with a high,
+strong wall, and every son of Adam will conceive the project of
+clearing it of every cluster.'</p>
+
+<p>'I should never think of such a thing.'</p>
+
+<p>'That is because your Honour is accustomed to restraints and
+barriers,' said Suleym&acirc;n. 'We, in the Sultan's dominions, have more
+freedom, praise to Allah! For us a high wall is an insult, save in
+cities.'</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXXI" id="CHAPTER_XXXI"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXXI<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE ATHEIST</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>Though I had known Suleym&acirc;n for nearly two years, and had had him with
+me for some six months of that time, I had never seen him in his
+function of a dragoman, by which he earned enough in two months of the
+year to keep a wife and children in a village of the coasts of Tyre
+and Sidon, of which he spoke with heart-moving affection, though he
+seldom went there. It was only after much insistence that he allowed
+us to conduct him thither on one memorable occasion, when I could not
+but admire his perfect manners as a despot. When first I met him he
+had been a gentleman at large, and it was as that, and a familiar
+friend, that he repaired to me whenever he had nothing else to do.
+Judging from his gifts of conversation, which we all admired, and his
+unbounded knowledge of the country, I thought that, as a guide for
+tourists, he would be invaluable. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span>So, when I heard that English
+friends of mine were coming out to Palestine, I wrote advising them to
+ask for him, him only; and I was glad to hear soon afterwards that he
+was with them. When they came north, I joined the party at Damascus
+and travelled with them for their last fortnight.</p>
+
+<p>It did not take me many minutes in the camp to see that Suleym&acirc;n was
+not himself, and that my friends were not so charmed with him as I had
+thought they would be. On the first evening in their tent I heard
+complaints. They told me he was most unconscionably lazy, and would
+not take them to the places they desired to visit. The trouble was, as
+I soon learnt, that they possessed a map and guidebook which they
+studied reverently every night, finding out places said therein to be
+of interest. Suleym&acirc;n, on his side, had, at setting out, possessed a
+plan to make their tour the most delightful one imaginable. He hoped
+by visiting selected spots and people to give it sequence and
+significance. In a word, he was an artist in travel, wishing to
+provide them with delicious memories, while they were English and
+omnivorous of facts and scenes. When he learnt from various rebuffs
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span>that they would not confide themselves to him, he lost all pleasure in
+the tour. It was a listless and disgusted upper servant, most unlike
+the man I knew, whom I found in gorgeous raiment sitting by the cook's
+fire in the gardens of Damascus, which were then a wilderness of
+roses.</p>
+
+<p>He did not explain matters to me all at once. When I reproached him
+for neglecting friends of mine, he answered only: 'It is the will of
+Allah, who made men of different kinds, some sweet, some loathsome.'
+But my arrival mended things a little. At least, my English friends
+professed to see a great improvement in the conduct of Suleym&acirc;n and
+all the servants. I think it was because the poor souls knew that they
+had someone now to whom they could express their grievances, someone
+who would condescend to talk with them; for nothing is more foreign to
+the Oriental scheme of life than the distance at which English people
+keep their servants. In the democratic East all men are equal, as far
+as rights of conversation are concerned. It is a hardship for the
+Oriental to serve Europeans, and only the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span>much higher and more
+certain wages bring him to it.</p>
+
+<p>My English friends had few good words to say for any of their Arab
+servants; but I found they had conceived a perfect hatred for the
+cook, who had undoubtedly a villainous appearance. He was a one-eyed
+man with a strong cast in his surviving eye. A skull-cap, which had
+once been white, concealed his shaven poll, and his long pointed ears
+stood out upon it. He wore a shirt of indigo impaired by time, over
+which, when riding, he would throw an ancient Frankish coat, or, if it
+chanced to rain, a piece of sacking. His legs were bare, and he wore
+scarlet slippers. To see him riding on an ass hung round with cooking
+tins, at the head of the procession of the beasts of burden, suggested
+to the uninformed spectator that those beasts of burden and their
+loads had all been stolen.</p>
+
+<p>I spoke about him to Suleym&acirc;n one day when in my company he had
+regained his wonted spirits, telling him of the extreme dislike my
+friends had taken to the man.</p>
+
+<p>'They are foolish,' he replied, 'to grumble at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span>the figure of a mill
+which grinds good flour. They profit by his cooking, which is
+excellent. Indeed, he is the best cook in the world, and most
+particular. I took great trouble to secure him for this expedition,
+knowing that the Khaw&acirc;j&acirc;t were friends of yours.' The tone of
+grievance in his voice became acute.</p>
+
+<p>I feared that he was going to cry, so answered quickly:</p>
+
+<p>'It is not that. They like his cooking. But his manners&mdash;&mdash;'</p>
+
+<p>'What know they of his manners? Has he ever entered the saloon or
+bed-tent to defile them? Has he ever spoken insult in their hearing?
+Inform me of his crime, and I will beat him bloody. But well I know he
+has done nothing wrong, for I have kept him in the strictest order all
+these days. It is only his appearance they object to; and that is
+God's affair, not theirs. The Lord repay them!'</p>
+
+<p>'You say that you have kept him in strict order? Is that necessary?'</p>
+
+<p>'Of course it is, for the poor man is mad. I thought his madness would
+amuse them; it is very funny. But Allah knows that there is not a
+laugh <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span>in all their bodies. So I have kept him from approaching them.'</p>
+
+<p>The word 'majn&ucirc;n,' which I have here translated 'mad,' has often, as I
+knew, a complimentary value; and I gathered from Suleym&acirc;n's way of
+speaking that the cook was not a raving maniac, but rather what in
+English country-places we should call 'a character.'</p>
+
+<p>I cultivated his acquaintance after that, and was astonished by his
+powers of story-telling and of mimicry; still more, perhaps, by a
+curious, dry scepticism, expressed facetiously and sometimes with
+profanity, which was evident in almost everything he said. This it was
+which chiefly pleased the waiter and the muleteers, who were his usual
+listeners, since they were together on the road. They would laugh and
+curse him in religious terms for a blasphemer and a wicked atheist,
+reproofs which he received as high applause. It was his custom to
+salute his friends with insults, which they took kindly from him,
+being what he was. They told me in low tones of awe, yet with a
+chuckle, that he had even sold his father's grave <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span>in a facetious way.
+But I could never get them to relate that story clearly.</p>
+
+<p>I could understand then why Suleym&acirc;n had kept him in strict order on
+the journey; for my English friends were quite incapable of seeing any
+fun in such a character. Nor did I ever tell them of the great
+adventure of that journey, in which their cook was very nearly done to
+death.</p>
+
+<p>It happened near the village of Mejdel esh-Shems, down in the valley
+underneath Mount Hermon. We remained in camp there over Sunday, and on
+Sunday afternoon my friends were resting in their tent. Suleym&acirc;n and I
+had seized that opportunity to go off for a ramble by ourselves, which
+did us good. We were returning to the camp in time for tea, when a
+crowd of fell&acirc;h&icirc;n came hurrying from the direction of our tents,
+waving their arms and shouting, seeming very angry. Suleym&acirc;n called
+out to them to learn the matter.</p>
+
+<p>'Zand&icirc;q!' (an atheist) they cried. 'Zand&icirc;q! Zand&icirc;q!'</p>
+
+<p>'Where?' I asked, eagerly.</p>
+
+<p>'There, in yonder tent,' an old white-bearded man informed me, with
+wide eyes of horror. He <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span>pointed to the canvas windscreen against
+which our famous cook sat gazing at the kettle he had set to boil for
+tea. 'We go to fetch the wherewithal to kill him properly.'</p>
+
+<p>'Stop!' said Suleym&acirc;n peremptorily. 'You are mistaken. That is our
+cook&mdash;a good, religious man, but mad occasionally.'</p>
+
+<p>'No, there is no mistake, O lords of honour,' cried a score of voices;
+while the old man who had pointed out the cook to me, explained:</p>
+
+<p>'He said&mdash;may God protect us from the blame of it!&mdash;He said: "You see
+that mountain! It is I who made it. Prostrate yourselves before me for
+I made the world." We had been standing round him inoffensively,
+asking him questions, as the custom is, about his parentage, his
+trade, and so forth. But when we heard that awful blasphemy we rent
+our clothes, and ran in haste to fetch our weapons, as thou seest.
+Delay us not, for he must surely die.'</p>
+
+<p>'Commit not such a wickedness! The man is mad.'</p>
+
+<p>'No; he is sane.'</p>
+
+<p>'Quite mad, I do assure you. Return with us, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span>and I will prove it to
+your understanding,' cried Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>I added my assurance. They came back with us, but murmuring, and in
+two minds. I could not but admire the simple piety which prompted them
+at once to kill a man whose speech betrayed him as an atheist. But I
+was very much afraid of what might happen, and of the sad impression
+it would make upon my English friends. And everything depended on the
+cook's behaviour.</p>
+
+<p>'I tell you he is mad,' said Suleym&acirc;n, advancing towards the fire. 'It
+were a sin for you to slay a fellow-creature thus afflicted. Come
+hither, O Mans&ucirc;r,' he cried as to a dog.</p>
+
+<p>The cook rose up and came towards us with a foolish air.</p>
+
+<p>'Lie down before my horse. I would ride over thee.'</p>
+
+<p>The cook fell prostrate, then turned over on his back. His mouth hung
+open idiotically; his tongue lolled out.</p>
+
+<p>'Now rise and kiss my boot.'</p>
+
+<p>The cook obeyed. By that time there were murmurs of compassion from
+the would-be slayers.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span>'Spake I not truly?' asked Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'Aye, O sun of verity! He is quite mad, the poor one,' said the old
+man who had acted spokesman. 'It were a sin for us to kill him, being
+in that state. His manner at the first deceived us. Allah heal him!
+How came the dreadful malady upon him?'</p>
+
+<p>'It came upon him through the pangs of unrequited love.'</p>
+
+<p>'Alas, the poor one! Ah, the misery of men! May Allah heal him!' cried
+the women, as the group of villagers moved off, contented. Just when
+the last of them passed out of sight the longest tongue I ever saw in
+man emerged from the cook's mouth, and the rascal put his finger to
+his nose in a derisive gesture. Those portents were succeeded by a
+realistic cock-crow.</p>
+
+<p>'What makes the cook like that, devoid of reverence?' I asked of
+Suleym&acirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>'It is because he was born in Jerusalem,' was the astonishing reply.
+'He is a Christian, and was born poor; and the quarrels of the
+missionaries over him, each striving to obtain his patronage for some
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span>absurd belief, have made him what he is&mdash;a kind of atheist.'</p>
+
+<p>Sel&icirc;m, the waiter, who was near and overheard this ending, burst out
+laughing.</p>
+
+<p>'An atheist!' he cried. 'Your Honour understands? It means a man who
+thinks there is no God. Just like a beetle!' and he held his quaking
+sides.</p>
+
+<p>Both he and Suleym&acirc;n appeared to think that atheism was a subject to
+make angels laugh. And yet they were as staunch believers as those
+fell&acirc;h&icirc;n.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXXII" id="CHAPTER_XXXII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXXII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>THE SELLING OF OUR GUN</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>I had been ill with typhoid fever. Just before my illness, the son of
+a sheykh in our neighbourhood had asked me to lend him my gun for a
+few days, since I never used it. There was nothing really which I
+cared to shoot. The village people rushed out in pursuit of every
+little bird whose tweet was heard, however distant, in the olive
+groves or up the mountain side. Jackals there were besides, and an
+occasional hy&aelig;na; and, in the higher mountains, tigers, so the people
+still persisted in declaring, meaning leopards, I suppose, or lynxes;
+for ignorant Arabs lump together a whole genus under one specific
+name, in the same way that they call all wild plants, which have
+neither scent nor market-value, grass. It was after we had sought
+those tigers vainly that I put away my gun.</p>
+
+<p>The sheykh's son asked me for the loan of it, and I consented in the
+absence of Rash&icirc;d; who, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span>when he heard what I had done, defiled his
+face with dust and wailed aloud. Suleym&acirc;n, who happened to be with us
+at the moment, also blamed me, looking as black as if I had committed
+some unheard-of sin. It is unlucky for a man to lend his gun to
+anybody, even to the greatest friend he has on earth, they told me
+sadly; and that for no superstitious reason, but because, according to
+the law, if murder be committed with that weapon, the owner of the gun
+will be considered guilty no matter by whose hand the shot was fired.</p>
+
+<p>'How do they know the owner of the gun?' I answered, scoffing.</p>
+
+<p>'For every gun there is a tezkereh,'<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> answered Rash&icirc;d; 'and he who
+holds the tezkereh is held responsible for every use to which that gun
+is put.'</p>
+
+<p>It was, in fact, a rough-and-ready way of saying that the gun licence
+was not transferable. I remarked with satisfaction that I had no
+tezkereh, but that did not appear to reassure them in the least. They
+still were of opinion harm might come of it.</p>
+
+<p>Then I fell ill and knew no more of daily life <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span>until I found myself
+in a hospital of the German Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, where
+the good sisters nursed me back to health.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Arab visitors from far and near who came to see me as I lay
+in bed, was the youth who had borrowed my gun, together with his
+father and his brethren, who wept real tears and prayed for my
+complete recovery, talking as if they were beholden to me in some
+signal way. Their manner puzzled me a little at the time; but I had
+quite forgotten that perplexity when, discharged at last from
+hospital, I travelled back into the mountains with Rash&icirc;d.</p>
+
+<p>On the very day of my return I got an invitation from that young man's
+father to dine with him at noon upon the morrow. Rash&icirc;d made a grimace
+at hearing of it and, when I asked him why, looked down his nose and
+said:</p>
+
+<p>'He has our gun.'</p>
+
+<p>'Aye, to be sure, and so he has!' I said. 'To-morrow I must not forget
+to ask him for it.'</p>
+
+<p>Rash&icirc;d looked big with tidings, but restrained himself and merely
+growled:</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span>'You will not ask for it. I know your Honour! Nor will that rogue
+return it of his own accord.'</p>
+
+<p>At the sheykh's house next day I found a largeish company assembled in
+my honour, as it seemed. Innumerable were the compliments on my
+recovery, the pretty speeches and remarks, to which I made reply as
+best I could. The meal consisted of some thirty courses, and was set
+on trays upon the floor in the old, country fashion, everybody eating
+with his fingers from the dish. When it drew near an end, the son of
+the house glanced at his father meaningly, and getting in return a
+nod, rose up and left the room. He soon came back, carrying my gun,
+which he brought first to me as if for benediction, then handed round
+for the inspection of the other guests. There were cries of 'Ma
+sh'Allah!' while they all praised its workmanship, one man opining
+that it must have cost a mint of money, another wishing he possessed
+its brother, and so forth. These exclamations and asides were
+evidently aimed at me, and it was somehow carried to my understanding
+that this exhibition of the gun, and not the public joy on my
+recovery, was the true reason of the feast <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span>and all attending it;
+though why it should be so I could not think.</p>
+
+<p>'One thing that is remarkable about this gun,' explained the master of
+the house, 'is that it cannot miss the object aimed at. We have tried
+it at a target nailed upon a tree&mdash;I and my sons&mdash;at fifty and a
+hundred paces&mdash;aye, and more! And, by the Lord, the bullet always
+strikes exactly on the spot at which the gun is pointed, even though
+that spot be not much bigger than a gnat.'</p>
+
+<p>And then, quite unaccountably, the whole assembly rose and tried to
+kiss my hands, as if the virtues of my gun were due to me. It was
+obviously not the moment to reclaim the weapon.</p>
+
+<p>When I got home after that strange ovation, Rash&icirc;d received me coldly
+and observed:</p>
+
+<p>'You do not bring our gun! You feared to ask for it! Did not I know
+how it would be? Oh, Allah, Allah!'</p>
+
+<p>'I had no opportunity,' I told him; 'but I am going now to write and
+ask him to return it. Be ready for the letter. You will have to take
+it.'</p>
+
+<p>'Upon my head and eye, with all alacrity,' Rash&icirc;d replied. 'Never did
+I rejoice so much in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span>any errand. That rascal has been telling
+everybody that it is your gift to him, and boasting of his gun through
+all the mountains. No doubt, he counts upon your illness having dimmed
+remembrance, and hopes that you yourself may be deluded into thinking
+that it was a gift and not a loan.'</p>
+
+<p>'Why did you not tell me this before?' I asked.</p>
+
+<p>'Was it my business, till the question rose?'</p>
+
+<p>I wrote a civil note to the young man, asking him to let me have the
+gun in a few days, as I was collecting my belongings for the journey
+back to England. I thanked him for the care which he had taken of my
+property, which was much better kept than when I lent it to him, as I
+had remarked that day. Rash&icirc;d received the missive and went off
+exulting.</p>
+
+<p>Within an hour that young man came to me, without the gun, and in a
+state of most profound affliction and despair. Having shut the door
+with great precaution to make sure we were alone, he fell upon the
+ground and burst out crying, confessing that his passion for the gun
+had made him dream that it was his each night as he lay thinking ere
+he fell asleep.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span>'But I did not tell a soul that it was mine&mdash;did but dream it&mdash;until I
+knew your Honour was abed and like to die,' he told me naively, as
+something which might make his fault seem natural. 'I thought that you
+would die and leave it with me.'</p>
+
+<p>So, thinking me as good as dead, he had told his father and his
+brothers that it was a gift from me, or, as it were, a legacy; and now
+the fame of my munificence, my love for him, had gone abroad. An hour
+ago, when he received my letter, he had confessed the truth at last
+and privately to his beloved father, who, while strongly blaming him
+for his deceit, was willing to pay any price I chose to put upon the
+weapon to save him from the horrid scandal of exposure. If the story
+became public in the country he would die of grief. The honour of a
+noble house was at my mercy.</p>
+
+<p>The gun, so much admired, was quite a cheap one in reality. I had
+bought it for ten pounds three years before, in London, on the advice
+of an uncle skilled in all such matters. After a moment's thought, I
+said: 'Eight English pounds.'</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span>Never in my life before or since have I beheld such transports of
+relief and gratitude, nor heard such heartfelt praises of my
+generosity. He told the money out before me there and then, insisted
+on embracing me repeatedly, and then rushed out, intent to tell his
+father.</p>
+
+<p>When he had gone, Rash&icirc;d appeared before me, stern and aloof as the
+Recording Angel.</p>
+
+<p>'It is a crime you have committed,' he exclaimed indignantly. 'That
+rascal told me as we came along together that his father was prepared
+to pay a hundred pounds to save their honour. He had sinned; it is but
+right his house should bear the punishment.'</p>
+
+<p>'You would have done as I have done, in my position,' I assured him,
+laughing.</p>
+
+<p>'In the position of your Honour,' was the dignified reply, 'I should
+either have made him pay a hundred pounds for our gun, or else
+persuaded him that it was worth a hundred pounds, and then presented
+it. In either case I should have crushed those people utterly. But,
+for a man in your position to accept eight pounds for such <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span>a
+weapon&mdash;and proclaim it worth no more&mdash;that is a shame! If your desire
+was money, you should not have touched the matter personally, but have
+left it altogether in the hands of me, your servant, who am always
+careful of your honour, which is mine as well.'</p>
+
+<p>He sulked with me thereafter for two days.</p>
+
+<br />
+<hr style="width: 15%;" />
+<br />
+
+<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Licence.</p></div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<a name="CHAPTER_XXXIII" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII"></a><hr />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span><br />
+
+<h3>CHAPTER XXXIII<span class="totoc"><a href="#toc">ToC</a></span></h3>
+
+<h4>MY BENEFACTOR</h4>
+<br />
+
+<p>When I knew at length that I was going to leave Syria, I was seized
+with a desire to buy all kinds of notions of the country to show to my
+people at home&mdash;a very foolish way of spending money, I am now aware,
+for such things lose significance when taken from their proper
+setting.</p>
+
+<p>In after days, when leaving Syria for England, the one thing I would
+purchase for myself was a supply of reed pens for Arabic writing. But
+on that first occasion I wished to carry the whole country with me.</p>
+
+<p>There was an old, learned Christian of Beyrout, who had given me
+lessons in Arabic at various times, and always waited on me honourably
+whenever I alighted in that loveliest and most detestable of seaport
+towns. He wore the baggiest of baggy trousers, looking just like
+petticoats, a short fez with enormous hanging tassel, a black alpaca
+coat <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span>of French design, a crimson vest, white cotton stockings, and
+elastic-sided boots, convenient to pull off ere entering a room. He
+always carried in the street a silver-headed cane, which he would lean
+with care against the wall of any room he chanced to enter, never
+laying it upon the ground, or on a chair or table. In all the time of
+my acquaintance with him I never, that I can remember, saw him really
+smile, though something like a twinkle would occasionally touch his
+eyes beneath great bushy eyebrows, between black and grey. An
+extraordinarily strong and heavy grey moustache, with drooping ends,
+gave him a half-pathetic, half-imposing likeness to some aged walrus;
+so that some of the common people actually called him 'Sheykh el Bahr'
+(the old man of the sea)&mdash;which is the proper Arabic designation of a
+walrus.</p>
+
+<p>He came to see me after I had left the hospital and was staying with
+some English friends for a few days before returning to the wilds for
+a farewell; and repeatedly praised Allah for my safe recovery. There
+never was a man more thoroughly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span>respectable, more perfectly correct
+in every word and movement. He disapproved of poor Rash&icirc;d as a
+companion for me, because the latter dealt in vulgar language; and I
+feel certain that he would have disapproved of Suleym&acirc;n, if he had
+ever seen that Sun of Wisdom in my company, for pandering to my desire
+for foolish stories. He was known as the Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n, a worthy
+man.</p>
+
+<p>With his usual ceremonious salutation, suggestive of his high position
+as a representative of learning, he placed himself at my command for
+any purchases I wished to make; knowing, he said, that I was likely to
+be busy in the weeks before departure. And his offer was extremely
+welcome to me at the time. I wished, as I have said already, to buy
+lots of things; among others&mdash;why, I cannot now imagine&mdash;the whole
+costume of natives of the country. The Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n praised my
+intention, gravely declaring that it could not fail to interest my
+honoured relatives and lovers, and enlarge their minds, to know the
+details of a dress the most becoming in the world. In order that a
+full idea of Syrian raiment might be given, two <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span>suits and two long
+garments (corresponding to two other suits) were necessary, he
+pronounced. These, with the various articles of clothing which I then
+possessed and had grown used to wearing in the country, would be
+sufficient for the purposes of exhibition.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the following day, as I was dressing, about ten o'clock (for I
+was still to some extent an invalid), there came a light knock at the
+door, and the Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n appeared, ushering in a friend of
+his, who was a tailor&mdash;a man as grave and worthy as himself, who there
+and then proceeded to take measurements, praising the proportions with
+which nature had endowed me, and asking Allah to fill out those parts
+which now were lean through illness. The moment of a man's uprising
+is&mdash;or was at that time, for old customs are now dying out&mdash;the one
+which servants, tradesmen, pedlars, and all who wished to ask a favour
+chose for visiting. On the morning after my arrival in an Eastern city
+where I happened to be known I have had as many as twelve persons
+squatting round upon the floor, watching a barber shave me, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span>while a
+little boy, the barber's 'prentice, bearing towels, jug, and basin,
+waited upon him like an acolyte.</p>
+
+<p>The tailor, having made the necessary notes, withdrew with many
+compliments. The Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n remained behind a moment, to
+assure me, in a loud stage-whisper, that the said tailor was a man
+whom I could trust to do the best for me, and that I might think
+myself extremely fortunate to have secured his services, as, being
+much sought after by the fashionables, he generally had more work than
+he could really do; but that, having taken, as he said, a fancy to me,
+he would certainly turn out a set of garments to enslave the heart.
+Having said this in the finest classic phraseology, he went out to
+rejoin the tailor in the passage; nor did I see him any more until the
+very day of my departure, when, at the English Consul-General's
+hospitable house, I was waiting for the carriage which would take me
+to the quay.</p>
+
+<p>I was told that someone wished to see me upon urgent business, and,
+going to the great Liw&acirc;n or entrance-hall, I found my friend, his
+silver-headed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span>cane leaned carefully against the wall as usual. He
+carried underneath his arm a number of large books. These he presented
+to me with a solemn bow.</p>
+
+<p>'It occurred to me,' he said, 'that as your Honour has a predilection
+for all those curious and often foolish tales which circulate among
+the common people, you might not perhaps disdain these four poor
+volumes which I chance to have in my possession. Deign to accept them
+as a parting gift from me.'</p>
+
+<p>I thanked him kindly, though in truth I was embarrassed, not knowing
+where to stow the books, since all my things were packed. And then he
+handed me the tailor's bill, which, with the clothes which I had
+ordered, had escaped my memory.</p>
+
+<p>'Where are the clothes?' I asked, 'I had forgotten them.'</p>
+
+<p>He pointed to a bundle pinned up honourably in a silken wrapper,
+reposing on the floor hard by the silver-handled cane. I tore the
+envelope and opened out the bill. It came to twenty pounds.</p>
+
+<p>And I had got my money ready for my journey. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[317]</a></span>I was going to visit
+some of the Greek Islands, Smyrna, and Constantinople, on my way to
+England, and had hoped, besides, to see a little of the Balkan States.
+To pay out twenty pounds was to reduce that journey by at least a
+fortnight. And, as I said, I had forgotten all about the clothes,
+regarding all my Syrian debts as fully paid.</p>
+
+<p>The hall was empty; we were quite alone. I fear I stormed at the
+Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n, reminding him that he had promised that the
+clothes should not be dear.</p>
+
+<p>'But,' he persisted, 'they are very cheap for the materials. If your
+Honour's wish was to pay less, you ought not to have chosen fabrics
+three parts silk. I did not know that you were counting money.'</p>
+
+<p>He was right. Throughout my stay in Syria, until that moment, I had
+never counted money. Compared with England, living in the country was
+absurdly cheap, and on my small allowance I had lived at ease. He
+might quite reasonably have supposed me to be very wealthy. But I was
+not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span>in reasonable mood just then. I paid the bill, but in an angry
+manner; and while I was still talking to him, the Caww&acirc;s arrived, and,
+close upon his heels, Rash&icirc;d in tears, to tell me that the carriage
+was in waiting. The grief I felt at leaving Syria, at parting from
+Rash&icirc;d and our Sheyt&acirc;n and many friends took hold of me. Hurriedly I
+said goodbye to the Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n, and I am glad to say I changed
+my tone at that last moment, and had the grace to bid him think no
+more of the whole matter. But I shall carry to my grave the
+recollection of his face of horror while I scolded, the look that told
+his grief that he had been deceived in me.</p>
+
+<p>I went and shoved the books into my luggage here and there, gave
+Rash&icirc;d orders to send on the clothes, took leave of my kind hosts, and
+drove down in a hurry to the quay. It was not till some time after I
+arrived in England that I realised that the volumes which he had
+presented to me were a complete B&ucirc;l&acirc;c Edition of the <i>Thousand and One
+Nights</i>&mdash;a valuable book&mdash;which is my greatest treasure.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span>Nor have I ever had the chance of thanking the giver in a manner
+worthy of the gift, and wiping out the bad impression left by my
+ill-temper, for a letter which I wrote from England never reached him
+I am told, and when I next was in his country the Mu'allim Costant&icirc;n
+had gone where kindness, patience, courtesy, and all his other virtues
+are, I hope, rewarded.</p>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<h5>GLASGOW: W. COLLIN'S SONS AND CO. LTD.</h5>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320"></a></span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/logo.png" width="45%" alt="Publisher's Logo" />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<div class="tr">
+<p class="cen"><a name="TN" id="TN"></a>Typographical errors corrected in text:</p>
+<br />
+Page 212: &nbsp; Yus&ucirc;f replaced with Y&ucirc;suf<br />
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
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