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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Sunny Side of Ireland, by
+John O'Mahony and R. Lloyd Praeger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Sunny Side of Ireland
+       How to see it by the Great Southern and Western Railway
+
+Author: John O'Mahony and R. Lloyd Praeger
+
+Release Date: September 19, 2006 [EBook #19329]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SUNNY SIDE OF IRELAND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Janet Blenkinship and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
++------------------------------------------------------------+
+|Transcriber's Note: Inconsistent spelling of place names    |
+|are left as in the original.                                |
++------------------------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+  THE SUNNY SIDE
+
+  OF
+
+  IRELAND.
+
+  [Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+  Second Edition.    Re-written and Enlarged.
+
+  THE SUNNY SIDE
+
+  OF
+
+  IRELAND.
+
+  HOW TO SEE IT BY
+  THE GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY.
+
+  BY
+
+  JOHN O'MAHONY.
+
+  With Seven Maps and over 160 Illustrations.
+
+
+  AND A CHAPTER ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF
+  THE SOUTH AND WEST OF IRELAND,
+
+  BY
+
+  R. LLOYD PRAEGER, B.A., B.E., &c.
+
+
+  ALEX. THOM & CO. (LIMITED),
+  87, 88, & 89, ABBEY STREET,
+  DUBLIN.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION.
+
+
+These pages attempt to make better known the large part of Ireland which
+is served by the Great Southern and Western Railway Company, and while
+doing so to realise Shakespeare's words:
+
+  "An honest tale speeds best being plainly told."
+
+If they succeed in these endeavours, they will satisfy the compiler. No
+inexorable route is insisted upon, but no suggestion is stinted which
+may help the tourist to enjoy fully the beautiful country he passes
+through--and a beautiful country it truly is, be it approached from
+Athlone, its north-western gate, by the Shannon, where,
+
+  "In the quiet watered land, the land of roses,
+  Stands Saint Kieran's city fair,"
+
+or from its south-western side, in the kingdom of Kerry, where the ocean
+leans against the mountains, and the storm-swept peak of Skellig Michael
+makes the most westerly citadel of Christ in the Old World! Everywhere
+within its broad borders, swift-rushing rivers, mirror-like lakes, and
+mountains tiaraed in the skies, delight the vision and gladden the
+heart.
+
+The Gaelic names of places are usually word pictures reflecting with
+fidelity the physical features of each place, or "tell sad stories of
+the death of kings." Where possible, the equivalents have been given in
+English.
+
+With these forewords, nothing further remains but to offer an Irish
+welcome--
+                                                 FAILTE.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+Since "The Sunny Side of Ireland" was issued the Royal Assent has been
+given to an Act of Parliament which makes the Great Southern and Western
+Railway foremost in every sense amongst Irish Railways. The two
+Provinces of Munster and Connaught are now knit together by a huge
+network of railway lines comprised in their amalgamated system.
+
+The several counties thus included are dealt with in this Second
+Edition. The volume is further enhanced by more particular information
+as to the sports and pastimes of the country, and by a valuable chapter
+on the Natural History of the South and West of Ireland, by writers of
+authority on such subjects.
+
+
+
+
+  LIST OF MAPS.
+
+
+  MAP OF THE GREAT SOUTHERN AND
+  WESTERN RAILWAY AND ITS CONNECTIONS
+  IN IRELAND                                               6
+
+  MAP SHOWING CONNECTIONS OF THE
+  GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN
+  RAILWAY IN GREAT BRITAIN                                 7
+
+  MAP OF DUBLIN CITY                                      14
+
+  MAP OF ENVIRONS OF DUBLIN                               15
+
+  MAP OF CORK CITY                                        72
+
+  MAP OF ENVIRONS OF CORK                                 73
+
+  PICTORIAL MAP OF KILLARNEY DISTRICT                    132
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.                                             Page
+
+
+  INTRODUCTION                                             8
+
+  DUBLIN AND DISTRICT--
+
+  DUBLIN                                                  15
+
+  DUBLIN DISTRICT                                         24
+
+  LIMERICK AND DISTRICT--
+
+  LIMERICK                                                46
+
+  LIMERICK DISTRICT                                       53
+
+  THE SHANNON LAKES                                       67
+
+  CORK AND DISTRICT--
+
+  CORK                                                    73
+
+  CORK DISTRICT                                           85
+
+  THE RIVER BLACKWATER, YOUGHAL, &C.                      98
+
+  WATERFORD AND DISTRICT                                 112
+
+  KILLARNEY AND GLENGARRIFF                              133
+
+  LAKES AND FJORDS OF KERRY                              175
+
+  COUNTY CLARE                                           221
+
+  GALWAY AND DISTRICT                                    235
+
+  CONNEMARA AND SLIGO                                    245
+
+  SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS                              256
+
+  NATURAL HISTORY OF THE SOUTH AND WEST OF IRELAND       260
+
+
+  SPORTS--
+
+  CYCLING                                                278
+
+  GOLF                                                   291
+
+  RIVER FISHING                                          295
+
+  LAKE FISHING                                           299
+
+  SHOOTING                                               303
+
+
+  INDEX                                                  306
+
+
+  ADVERTISEMENTS                                         309
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+Travelling through Ireland in the good old times was at best a
+precarious and inconvenient diversion. Those who had to do so regretted
+the necessity, and those who had not, praised Providence. Many "persons
+of quality," to use Dr. Johnson's phrase, have written narratives of
+their adventures and experiences in "the most damnable country." No man
+of position, even early in the nineteenth century, would dream of
+travelling threescore miles from his residence without having signed and
+sealed his last will and testament. The highways were beset by
+"Gentlemen of the Road," such as that fascinating felon, "Brennan on the
+Moor," of whom the ballad tells--
+
+  "A brace of loaded pistols he carried night and day."
+
+The coach roads were dangerous, the stage was deplorable, and everything
+but the scenery unpleasant. The interior and west of the country were
+connected with Dublin by canals cut in the time of the Irish
+Parliament, which followed the enterprise of the Dutch. They were looked
+upon at the time as feats of engineering skill, somewhat in the light
+that we view the Suez or Panama Canals to-day. Neville, the engineer,
+was the recipient of extravagant encomiums from the Lords and Commons,
+and his fame is embalmed in a street ballad which sings the praise of--
+
+  "Bold Neville,
+  Who made the streams run level
+  In that bounding river
+  Called the Grand Canal."
+
+Nowadays we have changed all that, and Neville and his skill are as
+little remembered in Ireland as the military-road cutter in Scotland, of
+whom, to show that
+
+[Illustration: G. S. & W. R. Corridor Train.]
+
+Ireland had not the monopoly in "bulls," an English admirer wrote:--
+
+  "If you had seen those roads before they
+    Were made,
+  You would hold up your hands and bless
+    General Wade."
+
+A poor Italian boy--Charles Bianconi--who tramped through the country as
+a print-seller, was the first, in the days of Waterloo, in the south of
+Ireland, to begin really that healthy competition with the mail-coaches
+which made straight the way for the Iron Horse.
+
+The Great Southern and Western Railway was incorporated in 1845. Mr.
+Under-Secretary Drummond, the English statesman who got closest to the
+Irish heart, was identified with the construction of the line.
+
+Year after year the Company prospered and increased, gradually absorbing
+the smaller lines adjoining it until the year 1901, when it amalgamated
+the only two other systems of broad gauge lines in their district which
+had remained independent. Practically the two provinces of Munster and
+Connaught are now knit together by the great network of railway lines
+which comprise the Great Southern and Western System. The total length
+is about 1,100 miles. The main line stretches from Dublin, through Cork,
+to Queenstown, forming the route for the American Mails and the great
+transatlantic passenger traffic. Branches extend to Waterford, Limerick,
+Killarney, and Kerry, and every place of importance in the South of
+Ireland, while in the west the line extends from Tralee, through
+Limerick, to Sligo. The carriages which the Company provide are of the
+very latest design; vestibule corridor trains, with dining and breakfast
+cars, are run daily, and the speed of the trains will bear comparison
+with any. The journey, Dublin to Cork (165 miles) is performed in four
+hours; to Killarney (189 miles) in about fifteen minutes more, and all
+the important tourist centres can be reached within a very short time.
+The comfort of passengers is well arranged for; refreshment rooms are
+provided at the principal stations, and breakfast, luncheon, and tea
+baskets can always be had, as well as pillows, rugs, and all the modern
+conveniences of travel. Besides all this, the enterprise of the Company
+has provided at Killarney, Parknasilla, Kenmare, Caragh Lake, and
+Waterville, hotels, which for appearance and luxury, tempered by
+economy, are the equals of any in Europe.
+
+[Illustration: Interior of G. S. & W. R. Dining Carriage.]
+
+The scenery of Ireland surpasses the most roseate expectations. Within a
+comparatively small compass her scenic beauties include mountains,
+lakes, and seas, and it is the good fortune of the Great Southern and
+Western Company to have within its borders the finest scenery in the
+country. The "Skies of Erin" have been paid tribute to by artists again
+and again. Turner said the sun never seemed to set so beautifully
+anywhere as in Ireland, and Lady Butler, the well-known painter, has
+expressed the opinion that nowhere, except in the valley of the Nile,
+does the firmament put forth such varied changes of beauty as in
+Ireland. To the Gulf Stream, which strikes the south-western coast,
+scientists attribute the mildness of the climate. From Queenstown to
+Leenane the coast-line contains countless health resorts, where invalids
+may be recommended winter quarters as salubrious as many of the
+continental districts.
+
+The sportsman has always found himself at home here. The fine hunting
+counties of Kildare, Tipperary, Kilkenny, and Waterford are familiar to
+every son of Nimrod. Shooting and fishing, although the preserves are
+not so many or so well kept as in Scotland, may be called the staple
+sports of Ireland. Golf has come to stay, and within recent years links
+have been laid in the vicinity of most of the tourist districts.
+
+One word for Irish industries will not be out of place. Ireland has no
+industries in the sense in which England has. With the exception of
+Belfast, there is no place in the country which approaches to a factory
+town in the sense in which that phrase is understood across the channel.
+Agriculture, of course, is the backbone of Ireland, and in connection
+with it the creamery system of the south may be mentioned. Anyone
+anxious to find a line of industry in Ireland which has beaten the Dane
+in his own market should visit Cleeves' famous factory at Limerick. The
+woollen industry in the country has withstood destructive legislature,
+and a typical example of modern success is the great tweed factory of
+Morroghs, at Douglas, County Cork. The Blarney tweeds have become a
+household word, but Douglas is shouldering them in the keen competition
+for public recognition. The great bacon-curing houses of Denny, at
+Waterford, are well worth seeing, as is also the thriving wholesome
+Co-operative Factory at Tralee. In Dublin the mammoth brewery of
+Guinness and Sons can be viewed under the conductorship of a servant of
+the firm employed for the sole purpose of showing visitors through the
+great concern. But it is the lesser industries in Ireland which are
+really attractive. The law of the survival of the fittest stands to
+these--the homespuns woven in the cottages, the beautiful Dublin poplin,
+the delicate lace of Youghal and Limerick, the exquisite pottery of
+Belleek, these good things are beyond compare.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Sackville-street, Dublin.]
+
+
+
+
+Dublin and District.
+
+DUBLIN.
+
+
+The Tourist too often hurries away from Dublin to the south or west with
+but a superficial knowledge of the attractions of the city. It will well
+repay a stay, and if the visitor happens to come at Horse Show week he
+can easily believe himself sojourning in the capital of one of the
+wealthiest countries in Europe. During that short carnival each autumn
+the tears are brushed aside, and Erin is all smiles and welcomes for her
+guests. The hotels are good, the lodging-houses are clean, and moderate
+in price. The restaurants have much improved within recent years.
+Readers of Lord Mayo's encouraging articles to would-be Irish tourists
+will do well to test his tribute to "The Dolphin" in Essex-street. If
+anyone wants to see the ladies of fashion at their tea, Mitchell's in
+Grafton-street is a sure find, and the well-equipped D.B.C. tea-houses,
+which are established in several parts of the city, will meet the
+requirements of moderate purses.
+
+To attempt to mention more than a few of the more important places worth
+seeing in this city would be beyond the intention of these pages.
+Stretched beneath the beautiful Dublin Mountains the city scatters
+itself about the sides of the River Liffey. To get from one place to
+another in Dublin is simplicity itself. The electric-tram system is
+equal to any in Europe, and excels most in the cheapness of its fares.
+The cars run through the principal streets and along the quay sides to
+the suburbs. A good view of the city may be had from the top of a tram
+on a fine day. Those who wish to suit their own convenience, however,
+will always avail themselves of the outside car. The jaunting car is to
+Dublin what the gondola is to Venice--at least an imaginative Irish
+Member of Parliament has said so, and that settles the matter. When
+selecting an "outside" take care that you secure one equipped with a
+pneumatic tyre. The Dublin driver is much maligned, he is generally
+courteous, and not without humour. The municipal authorities supply him
+with a list of fares and distances. He is bound to produce it should any
+difficulty arise as to the financial relations, which sometimes happens.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo,, Lawrence, Dublin._ Shelbourne Hotel,
+Stephen's-green.]
+
+Dublin was an old fortress of the Danes. They held the whole eastern
+seaboard of Ireland until 1014 when Brian Boru defeated them and broke
+their power at the battle of Clontarf. Historic remains of the old
+city--the Ford of the Hurdles the Irish call it--there are none. The
+Danes, the Normans, the Elizabethan, the Cromwellian, the Jacobite, all
+made history in Dublin in their day, but the city as it stands is
+practically modern. Between the Rotunda, one of the finest maternity
+hospitals in the world, and St. Stephen's Green, the beautiful park
+presented to the citizens by Lord Ardilaun, the principal buildings in
+the city lie. The College Green, however, forms a natural centre from
+which to make a short tour. The magnificent portico of the Bank of
+Ireland--formerly the Irish House of Parliament--is characterized by
+surprising dignity of proportion. Visitors can witness the printing of
+bank notes. The Irish House of Lords, which remains unaltered, is an
+oblong room with recess for throne at one end. Within may be seen two
+valuable Dutch tapestries, the one representing the famous Siege of
+Derry, and the second the Battle of the Boyne. Immediately outside "The
+Old House at Home," as the historic building is affectionately called by
+Irishmen, is a noble statue of Henry Grattan. He was the people's
+darling from 1782, when the Volunteers mustered in College-green, up to
+1800, when the Act of Union was passed. Behind Grattan stands the old
+leaden statue of William III., erected in 1701. This equestrian figure
+of "King Billy," as the prince of glorious, pious, and immortal memory
+is familiarly known, has been the centre of, in its time, much mischief
+and merriment. Up to 1822 His Majesty was annually decorated with orange
+ribbons to celebrate the anniversary of the Battle of the Boyne. This
+party demonstration was always resented by the populace, and King Billy
+came in for no end of ill-treatment. However, he has braved the battle
+and the breeze.
+
+Turning from the Bank we face the University, in front of which stand
+fine bronze statues of its distinguished sons, Edmund Burke and Oliver
+Goldsmith. The University, unlike its sisters, Oxford and Cambridge,
+contains but a single college--that of the Holy and Undivided
+Trinity--founded by Adam Loftus in Elizabeth's reign. Visitors to the
+College should be shown the chapel halls, museum, and library, and grand
+quadrangles, including Lever's notorious "Botany Bay." While in the
+library the world-famous "Book of Kells" may be inspected, and the
+enduring qualities of its marvellous illuminations admired. The College
+park is very beautiful, and during the College races at midsummer
+presents quite a gala sight.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo,, Lawrence, Dublin._ Dublin Castle.]
+
+In Dame-street most of the Irish banks have their offices. At the end of
+the street furthest from the College is the City Hall. The building was
+originally the Royal Exchange, but in the middle of the nineteenth
+century it was handed over to the Dublin Corporation. The Corinthian
+columns which form the portico are very handsome. The entrance is
+modern, the older structure having given way in "the troubled times,"
+while a crowd of citizens were beguiling the time watching a public
+whipping of a malefactor from the steps. The centre hall is crowned with
+a decorated dome. The hall contains statues of O'Connell,
+Under-Secretary Drummond, Grattan, and Dr. Lucas, a publicist in
+eighteen-century Dublin. The Council Chamber is well furnished, and some
+of the portraits of former Lords Mayor are very fine. Immediately behind
+the City Hall is Dublin Castle, far from being the imposing structure
+those familiar with its history may suppose. The Lower Castle Yard is
+entered from Palace-street. It contains the Birmingham Tower, a modern
+structure replacing the fortress, some of the walls of which still
+stand, from which the fiery Red Hugh O'Donel, Prince of Tyrone, escaped.
+The Castle Chapel is beside the Tower, and permission to visit it is
+easily obtained. Among the things of interest in the chapel are the
+emblazoned arms of all the Irish viceroys. The wood work throughout is
+Irish oak, and there are ninety heads in marble to represent the
+sovereigns of England. St. Patrick's Hall, the Throne-room, and the Long
+Drawing-room are the most important of the State apartments. While in
+the vicinity of the Castle, St. Patrick's Cathedral should be visited.
+Founded so long ago as 1190, this cathedral, dedicated to the Apostle of
+Ireland, has had a chequered history. Mostly Early English in
+architecture, modern styles have been grafted on the building without
+consistency or unity of ideal. The monuments are many. Dean Swift's
+bears an inscription written by himself and breathing the hatred of
+oppression and love of liberty characteristic of the writer--
+
+  "Hic depositum est corpus
+  JONATHAN SWIFT, s. t. d.
+  Hujus Ecclesiae Cathedralis Decani
+  Ubi saeva indignatio
+  Ulterius cor lacerare nequit
+        Abe Viator
+  Et imitare si poteris
+  Strenuum, pro virili,
+  Libertatis vindicatorem,
+  Obiit 19 deg. die mensis Octobris, A.D. 1745,
+        Anno Aetatis 78."
+
+Hard by is a white marble slab in memory of her whose name must be for
+ever associated with that of Swift--"Stella." Ten minutes' walk through
+Patrick-street will bring one from St. Patrick's to the most interesting
+ecclesiastical structure in Dublin--Christ Church Cathedral. An old
+Danish foundation, fire and time laid hands upon the original
+building. Its restoration is a triumph of architectural genius in the
+reproduction of thirteenth-century English Gothic. Strongbow's tomb is
+the famous monument of the place. The Crypt contains, besides other
+antiquities, the old City stocks, which is some three centuries old.
+Other places worth seeing in the city are the Four Courts, the Custom
+House, the Pro-Cathedral, Marlborough-street, St. Michan's Church and
+Churchyard, and the Church of St. Francis Xavier, Gardiner-street. The
+general architecture in the streets is incongruous, and the modern
+"improvements" not always desirable. In the back streets here and there
+the quaint gables as old as Queen Anne still survive, but the Dutch
+houses have almost entirely, and the Cage houses have entirely,
+disappeared.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Custom House, Dublin.]
+
+Leinster Lawn, or the Duke's Lawn, as the man in the street in Dublin
+still calls it, contains, among other attractions, the National Gallery,
+Museum, and Public Library. These are store houses of treasure. The
+catalogue of the Gallery reveals a valuable collection of paintings, and
+the Museum contains an unique exhibition of gold, silver, and bronze
+ornaments, collars, brooches, shields, clasps, and spears, which were
+found from time to time throughout Ireland, and are evidence of her
+former civilization. The Royal Irish Academy, in Dawson-street,
+possesses a rich collection of ancient Irish manuscript.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ National Library, Dublin. Four
+Courts, Dublin.]
+
+The cemeteries of Dublin are small, except Glasnevin. A drive through
+the Phoenix Park will bring one by the embanked river or through the
+northern side of the city. An inquisitive tourist asked an Irish driver
+why the Park was so called, when there was no such bird ever in the
+world. "Sure that's the reason," said the driver. "Sure there's no such
+Park in the world either." Lord Chesterfield put up a column with a
+Phoenix in the Park, but of old its name was Parc-na-Fionniake (the
+field of the clear water). It lies on the northern bank of the river
+celebrated by Sir Samuel Ferguson:--
+
+  "Delicious Liffey, from the bosoming-hills
+    What man who sees thee issuing strong and pure
+  But with some wistful, fresh emotion fills,
+    Akin to nature's own sweet temperature;
+  And haply thinks:--On this green bank 'twere sweet
+    To make one's mansion sometime of the year,
+  For health and pleasure on these uplands meet,
+    And all the Isle's amenities are here."
+
+Long ago the St. John's Hospitallers had their house at Kilmainham, and
+the lands belonging to the Order lay about either side of the stream.
+The Hospice is now the Old Man's House--an Asylum for Disabled Soldiers,
+designed by Sir Christopher Wren--and possesses one of the finest halls
+in Europe. The lands have been built over at Inchicore, and on the other
+side of the river formed into the Phoenix Park, containing close on
+two thousand acres, and bounded by a circumference of seven miles. The
+Park contains the lodges of the Viceroy and the Chief Secretary for
+Ireland, and the monuments to Lord Gough, Lord Carlisle, and the
+"overgrown milestone," as the obelisk to the Duke of Wellington has been
+called. The People's Gardens have been laid out with great taste, but
+they cannot compare with the natural beauty of the Furze Glen with its
+deep shade and silent lake. Visitors in the summer time should not fail
+to drive from Knockmaroon gate, beside the Liffey, to "The Strawberry
+Beds." Here, in the season, delicious fruit, fresh from the gardens, and
+rich cream, can be had in most of the cottages beside the road.
+
+
+DUBLIN DISTRICT.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Round Tower and Church at
+Clondalkin.]
+
+The country in the immediate vicinity of Dublin contains much that is
+picturesque. The scenery along the coast has in general been already
+referred to. But Killiney, Bray, and Howth, if time permits, should be
+visited. The train and tram facilities are sufficient. Wicklow County
+has been called the Garden of Erin, and on no account should a visit to
+Glendalough or "The Meeting of the Waters" in the Vale of Avoca be
+deferred. But those who wish to speed on to the south or west will do so
+from the Kingsbridge Terminus. From here we pass through Inchicore, the
+busy thriving hive of industry, where the Great Southern and Western
+Railway have their engineering works. The first station we come to is
+that of ~Clondalkin~. The old village sits snuggled up at the foot of
+its round tower, which is one of the best specimens of that early
+architecture in Ireland, of which the poet says:
+
+  "Two favourites hath Time--the Pyramids of Nile
+  And the old mystic temples of our own dear Isle."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Salmon Leap, Lucan.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Castletown House.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Carton House, Maynooth.]
+
+Irish antiquaries for generations have squabbled over these famous
+"Pillar Towers of Ireland," but the general trend of scientific opinion
+is that they are of early Christian origin. Father Matt Horgan, a famous
+Munster antiquary, humorously started the theory that they were built to
+puzzle posterity, which they have very successfully done. ~Lucan~ is a
+health resort, possessing a sulphur spa, and situated in a well-wooded
+country above the Liffey. The Hydropathic stands well sheltered and
+commanding a splendid view. The drives in the district are many, and the
+antiquarian will find much of interest. In Lord Annaly's demesne are the
+remains of an early Norman castle, and in the vicinity is an ancient
+Rath and souterraine. The drive to the Salmon Leap, at Leixlip, should
+not be missed. Near by is ~Castletown~, the palatial mansion of the
+Connolly family, and a grotesque structure known as "Connolly's Folly,"
+which was built in the time of the famine of "Black '47" to give
+employment. Here, too, the great Dean of St. Patrick's beguiled his time
+at "The Abbey," the home of Esther Vanhomrigh, the "Vanessa" of his
+strange life. From Lucan Maynooth may be reached. Here is St. Patrick's
+National College for the education of priests for the Catholic Church,
+originally founded on a Government grant. "Carton House," in the
+vicinity, is the residence of the Dukes of Leinster. It is surrounded by
+beautiful parks, well planted, among the trees the royal oaks, for which
+Kildare was celebrated, being conspicuous. ~Straffan~ may be called a
+"hunting village," as the meets of the famous "Killing Kildares" most
+usually take place in its neighbourhood. Here, too, are the seats of
+Lords Cloncurry and Mayo. The thriving market town of ~Naas~ is two
+miles from Sallins, and is the railway station for Punchestown, the
+great steeplechase meeting of the Kildare Hunt. Long centuries ago it
+was an historic spot--"Naas of the Kings." From the station may be seen
+the Hill of Allen, rising like a sentinel on the mearings of the "Great
+Plain of Ireland." ~Harristown~, the second station on a branch line, is
+about three miles from Poulaphouca Waterfall. The road to the Falls
+leads through the picturesque village of Ballymore-Eustace, situated on
+a bank at a bend in the river Liffey. The view from the river below the
+Falls is very impressive. Tullow is the terminus of this branch of the
+line. It is a good business town, and the river Slaney affords excellent
+trout fishing. Within half-an-hour's walk from Sallins is Bodenstown
+Churchyard, where Theobald Wolfe Tone, the founder of the United Irish
+Organisation of 1798, is buried. He was the most desperate man who ever
+crossed the path of the English Government in Ireland. "The most
+extraordinary man I ever met," is the verdict of the Duke of Wellington.
+"He went to France with but one hundred guineas in his pocket, and
+induced Bonaparte, by his single unaided efforts, to send three
+armaments to Ireland." Six and twenty miles from Dublin, the town of
+~Newbridge~ exists as a kind of aide-de-camp to the Commissariat
+Department of the ~Curragh Camp~. The Curragh, a great plain over twelve
+miles square, was once a common, the property of the Geraldine tenants,
+but the Crown quietly seized upon it, and "their right there is none to
+dispute." It has been made a camp of instruction, and can accommodate,
+under more or less permanent cover, ten thousand men. It is in a good
+fox-hunting, sporting country, "the country of the short grass," and
+several times a year is the scene of race meetings. It is the Newmarket
+of Ireland, for here are the training stables for Punchestown,
+Fairyhouse, Leopardstown, Baldoyle, and all the lesser meetings in the
+Green Isle, and many of the greater ones across the water. The Curragh
+was the scene of more than one battle in centuries past, and, like Tara,
+was one of the historic places chosen in the minds of the insurgents of
+Ninety-eight as an ideal mustering point. The Curragh District Golf Club
+has been formed by the military stationed there. ~Kildare~, some thirty
+miles from Dublin, is the junction for the Kilkenny branch of the line.
+The town is very old, being, in the early Christian era, a cell of St.
+Bride, a patroness of Ireland. The ancient cathedral has been partly
+rebuilt, and in the south transept is the vault of the Earls of Kildare,
+progenitors of the Leinster line. These Geraldines were the most famous
+of the Norman invaders:
+
+
+  "And, oh! through many a dark campaign
+    They proved their prowess stern,
+  In Leinster's plains and Munster's vales
+    On king, and chief, and kern;
+
+  But noble was the cheer within
+    The halls so rudely won,
+  And generous was the steel-gloved hand
+    That had such slaughter done.
+  How gay their laugh, how proud their mien,
+    You'd ask no herald's sign--
+  Amid a thousand, you had known
+    The princely Geraldine."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Liffey, near Celbridge.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Curragh Military Camp.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Curragh Military Camp.]
+
+The Round Tower in the graveyard, which is one hundred and three feet
+high, is perfect, except that the original cap has been replaced with a
+battlement, out of character with the rest. The old castle stood by, to
+guard the church and tower, and what remains of it has been turned to
+use as a tenement. The Earls of Kildare were often warring with the
+Kings of England. The Archbishop of Cashel one time protested to the
+King against the Earl burning down his cathedral, and the Earl, when
+reprimanded, explained to the King in person that he would not have done
+so had he not thought that the Archbishop was inside the church at the
+time. This was the same Earl of whom the Parliament complained that "all
+Ireland could not govern the Earl of Kildare." "Then," said the King,
+"let the Earl of Kildare govern all Ireland," and he was appointed Lord
+Deputy, and made an excellent one. From Kildare, Carlow, twenty-six
+miles distant, and Kilkenny, fifty-one, are the principal stations on
+the line which terminates at Waterford. ~Carlow~ is an old town which
+belonged to the hereditary enemies of the Fitzgeralds, the Butlers of
+Ormonde. It is beautifully situated, surrounded by fine trees, and built
+on the picturesque Barrow. There is splendid water-power above the town,
+and it was the first place in Ireland that was lighted with electricity.
+~Kilkenny~, the marble city, easily induces the visitor to linger within
+its walls and enjoy fully the attractions of the river Nore. Long ago it
+was a keep of "Dermott of the Foreigners," "who had grown hoarse from
+many shoutings in the battle," and was given by him as a dowry with
+his beautiful daughter Eva to Strongbow. Afterwards it passed, by
+purchase, into the possession of the Butlers, Lords of Ormonde. Here a
+Parliament was held in 1367, which endeavoured by law to prevent the
+absorption of the newcomers by the old Irish race. It tainted the blood
+of all who gave their children into fosterage with Irish women, and
+penalised the usage of Irish dress and customs. It made it a capital
+offence for any of English blood to marry an Irish woman, which was
+humorous enough when we remember that Strongbow, "the first of the
+foreigners," did so. But the statute was of no avail, and the Butlers in
+time became as big rebels as the Geraldines. Here, in 1642, the
+Confederate Catholics held their Parliament. Among other things they
+drafted a scheme of local government for the country, and set up the
+first printing press in Ireland. ~St. Canice's Cathedral~, the Round
+Tower, one hundred feet high, the Black Abbey, and Franciscan Friary,
+are the principal ecclesiastical objects of interest. The Round Tower is
+at the southern side of the Cathedral. This latter building, which is of
+an Early Pointed Style, was founded in the twelfth or thirteenth
+century. The pavement is of the famous Kilkenny marble. The principal
+object of interest in the building is St. Kieran's Chair, against the
+wall in the northern transept.
+
+[Illustration:]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kilkenny Castle.]
+
+The grounds of the Franciscan Friary have been overbuilt by a brewery,
+but the fine seven-light window and tower still stand. The ~Black
+Abbey~, a thirteenth century foundation, has come back into the
+possession of the Order of Preachers, or Dominicans, who have restored
+it. The small parish church near the northern transept of St. Canice's
+contains a window commemorative of Lieutenant Hamilton, V.C., of
+Inistioge, who was killed in the massacre of the Cavagnari Expedition by
+the Afghans in 1879. From the market place, Kilkenny Castle, the noble
+seat of the Butlers, may be entered. In the absence of the family of
+the Marquis of Ormonde, the public are allowed to visit the castle. It
+is a practically modern residence, built into the ancient walls; and
+three of the imposing watch towers of bygone years survive. The hall of
+the castle is decorated with beautiful Spanish leather work, and the
+rich tapestries on the staircase were wrought in the sixteenth century,
+on looms set up in the town by Flemings. Besides the family plate,
+jewels, and heirlooms--which are displayed in several apartments--the
+picture gallery is exceptionally attractive. Among its treasures are
+Murillo's "St. John," Corregio's "Marriage of St. Catherine," and
+Giordano's "Assumption of the Blessed Virgin." From St. John's Bridge,
+above the Nore, a splendid view of the castle may be seen. There is a
+pleasant pathway under the castle wall, along the river side from the
+bridge. From Kilkenny many interesting excursions may be made. To
+~Kells~, twelve statute miles, where there are the ruins of an important
+twelfth century priory. Two miles from Kells is Kilree, where are
+situate a ruined church, Round Tower, and Celtic cross, and a remarkable
+tomb slab in the church, on which is an ancient symbolic sculpture of a
+cock-in-a-pot crowing. Three miles from Kilree is Aghavillar, with
+ruined church, attached castellated house, and Round Tower. About seven
+miles from the city is the Cave of Dunmore, a stalactite cavern worth
+seeing. ~Thomastown~, on the line to Waterford, was formerly a walled
+town. It is less than two miles from Jerpoint Abbey, the ruins of which
+are interesting. It was founded by Donough Tiernach, Chief of Ossory, in
+1180. The style is Early Norman, but the turrets and battlements are
+fifteenth century work.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Picture Gallery, Kilkenny
+Castle.]
+
+Cromwell, who is discredited with destroying places in Ireland where he
+never was, is said to have passed by Jerpoint without molesting it, but
+when the peal of bells rang out in thanksgiving, he took it for a
+challenge, and returned and sacked the place. In Cork he melted down the
+chapel bells, saying that "as it was a priest that invented gunpowder,
+the best thing that could be done with chapel bells was to make them
+into cannons," which he did.
+
+If, instead of branching off the main line at Kildare, we continue along
+it in the south-western direction.
+
+~Monasterevan~, which was an old ecclesiastical place of importance, now
+insignificant except for its malting houses and distillery. The Marquis
+of Drogheda's demesne and residence, Moore Abbey, stands in the centre
+of the well-wooded lands, which were formerly monastic property.
+~Portarlington~, a small town on the Barrow, has the seat of the Earl of
+Portarlington. The river divides the town, and is the boundary here
+between Kildare and the Queen's County. The Irish name of this place is
+Coltody; but in the time of the "Merrie Monarch" it was given to a court
+favourite, Lord Arlington, who here built a little harbour on the
+Barrow, whence its name. In the townland of Deer Park, near the town,
+there is still a colony of pure Huguenot descent. Portarlington is the
+junction of the branch line running to Athlone.
+
+~Maryborough~ is pleasantly situated on the river side. From the Rock of
+Dunamaise, an old fort of "Dermot of the Foreigners" in an almost
+impregnable position, there is a splendid view of the Slieve Bloom
+mountain ranges. At Ballybrophy is the junction for the Parsonstown and
+Roscrea and Nenagh branches. ~Roscrea~, under the Devil's Bit mountains,
+has celebrated ecclesiastical remains and a modern Cistercian Monastery,
+the parent house of which is the famous Mount Melleray Abbey. Among the
+ruins of interest to the antiquary are the remains of Augustinian and
+Franciscan foundations, and a Round Tower, about the foot of which St.
+Cronan had one of the early schools in Ireland in the sixth century. A
+square tower of the Butlers and a tower of Prince John's Castle will
+repay attention. ~Birr Castle~, the seat of the Earl of Rosse at
+Parsonstown, is surrounded by a fine park. It is remarkable for its
+mammoth telescopes, one of which is fifty-two feet long, with a speculum
+six feet in diameter. Nenagh, at the foot of the Silvermines and Keeper
+mountains (2,278 feet), is a stirring market town, and possesses a
+Norman keep in fair preservation. Birdhill brings us to the Shannon, the
+attractions of which are dealt with in another chapter.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Birr Castle.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lord Rosse's Telescopes at
+Birr.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Bridge, Athlone.]
+
+The branch line which runs from Portarlington to Athlone, runs right
+through the Bog of Allen. It is available for through passengers for
+Connemara. For miles, the undulating bog land, green and brown. The
+~King's County~ still remains out of the primeval forests, and its great
+peat fields are the only source of wealth to the surrounding peasantry.
+~Athlone~, some two miles below Lough Ree, on the Shannon, is the
+military key to the Province of Connaught. The keep of the old Castle,
+dating from King John's reign, remains, but the bridge and salmon weir
+are of more interest. In 1691 Ginckle besieged the town on the eastern
+bank, but a handful of Irish troops held the Connaught side, desiring to
+keep the position until St. Ruth arrived. The defence of the bridge is
+one of the most gallant exploits in Irish history. Colonel Richard
+Grace, who held the position for the Jacobites, was offered security in
+his estates and military honours, if he surrendered, by the Duke of
+Schomberg. At night, when the offer reached the Jacobite general, he was
+in his quarters, playing the familiar Irish card game of spoil-five with
+his officers. The six-of-hearts happened to be the "deckhead." Grace
+took it from the pack and wrote on the back, "It ill becomes a gentleman
+to betray his trust," and gave it to the Williamite messenger. The
+"six-of-hearts" is still known as "The Grace's Card," especially in
+Kilkenny, where the general's estates were. From Athlone excursions may
+be made to Auburn, eight miles; Clonmacnoise, ten Irish miles; and to
+Lough Ree. Lissoy, where Goldsmith spent his childhood, there can be
+little doubt, was the original of--
+
+  "Sweet Auburn, loveliest village of the plain."
+
+It is a pleasant drive, the road from Ballykeeran skirting Lough
+Killinure. Lough Ree, three miles from Athlone, is low-lying, some ten
+miles long, and in parts prettily wooded. There is a small archipelago
+in the northern end, of which pretty "Hare Island" is the residence of
+Lord Castlemaine. The Seven Churches of Clonmacnoise formed the old city
+of St. Kieran, whose feast day is the 9th September. There are two Round
+Towers, O'Rourke's and M'Carthy's; a Holy Well, the Cairn of Three
+Crosses, Relich Calliagh, founded by Devorgilla, who bewitched Dermot of
+the Foreigners. Teampul-Kieran is a small cell. Teampul-Connor has an
+interesting tenth century doorway, and in Teampul-Fineen the chancel
+arch still remains, and the piscina can be traced. Teampul-Ree has two
+round-headed lights and a lancet window, twelfth century work. The
+~Great Cross of the Scriptures~ is inscribed with Gaelic, "a prayer for
+Flan, son of Malseclyn," and "a prayer for Colman, who made this cross
+for St. Flan," referring to the ninth century monarch of Meath, and to
+Colman, Abbot, early in the tenth century, of Clonmacnoise. The cross is
+fifteen feet high, and its panels were sculptured with Scriptural
+scenes, interlined with Celtic tracery.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Shannon at Athlone.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Clonmacnoise.]
+
+  "In a quiet, watered land, a land of roses,
+    Stands St. Kieran's city fair;
+  And the warriors of Erin in their famous generations
+    Slumber there.
+
+  "There, beneath the dewy hillside, sleep the noblest
+    Of the Clan of Conn;
+  Each below his stone with name in branching Ogham,
+    And the sacred knot thereon."
+
+    For information as to Sport to be had in the Dublin District, see
+    end of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf, Fishing,
+    Shooting, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+Limerick and District
+
+[Illustration]
+
+LIMERICK.
+
+
+Leaving ~Limerick Junction~, between it and Limerick City, there are few
+places of interest. The country side is very rich, and is the centre of
+the Creamery Co-operative system. At Boher is Glenstal, the residence of
+Sir Charles Barrington. The demesne contains the Ilchester Oaks, with
+which the country people associate a romance. The story is told in
+detail in Lefanu's "Seventy Years of Irish Life." At Caghercullen, which
+is now part of Glenstal Demesne, early in the last century lived Squire
+O'Grady, an old _grandee_ of Limerick; he was a fox-hunting widower, and
+his beautiful and only daughter was the cynosure of all eyes. When she
+came out at a Limerick hunt ball the little beauty captivated Lord
+Stourdale--eldest son to Lord Ilchester who was then with his regiment
+at Limerick. O'Grady's keen eye soon discerned that the young people
+were falling in love with each other. Proud of his family as the
+Irishman was, he feared his position was such that an English lord may
+not look on an alliance with favour. He wrote a friendly letter to Lord
+Ilchester--in order to prevent trouble--saying that, as an elder man, he
+perceived that his son was about getting into a scrape, and it would be
+well to have him brought home or sent on active service. Stourdale
+disappeared; and Lord Ilchester wrote thanking the squire, and notifying
+that an old military friend--a Colonel Prendergast--would call and thank
+him personally. The colonel came in good time, and partook of O'Grady's
+hospitality. As he was leaving, he mentioned to the squire that he
+thought his beautiful daughter was falling into bad health. O'Grady,
+with brusque confidence, said that she had been fooling about Stourdale,
+but would soon forget him. Lovers will rejoice at the sequel of the
+romance. Colonel Prendergast discovered himself as Lord Ilchester, and
+expressed his gratification at the possibility of having such a wife for
+his son. There was the usual happy marriage; and the present Earl of
+Ilchester and the present Earl of Lansdowne, can claim descent from
+Maureen O'Grady.
+
+~Limerick~.--Like most of the Munster seaboard towns, it was built by
+the Danes; and it was the cock-pit of the fights between the Ostmen and
+the warlike clans who followed O'Brien's banner in the early centuries.
+It made history in Cromwell's days, and until recently the old house
+occupied by Ireton stood within its streets. Ireton sentenced many men
+of eminence to death during the short triumph of Cromwell. Among the
+most noble of the cavaliers who died at Limerick was Geoffrey Barron of
+Clonmel, a young Irish lawyer who acted as civil secretary to the
+Confederates. With exquisite cruelty he was sentenced to be executed
+upon the morning which had previously been fixed for his wedding. He
+asked, as a favour, that he should be permitted to wear his bridegroom
+attire on the scaffold, and Ireton granted the boon.
+
+He made a brave show amid the crop-eared Roundheads.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Treaty Stone, Limerick.]
+
+  "Taffeta as white as milk,
+  Made all his suit.
+  Threads of silver in the silk
+  Trailed like moonlight through it.
+  Silver cap and white feather,
+  Stepping proud and high,
+  In his shoon of white leather,
+  Came Geoffrey Barron to die.
+  Then the Roundhead general said,
+  Fingering his sword--
+  Art thou coming to be wed,
+  Like a heathen lord?
+
+  "Go! thy pride thy scaffold is,
+  Give her sigh for sigh.
+  Breath for breath, and kiss for kiss,
+  For Geoffrey Barron must die.
+  But he laughed out as he ran
+  Up the black steps;
+  Never happier bridegroom man,
+  With his wife's lips.
+  If for mortal woman's sake,
+  In silks should go I,
+  I shall for heaven the same pains take,
+  Now, Geoffrey Barron must die."
+
+But the name of Limerick scintillates in those glowing chapters in its
+country's history, when it stoutly withstood the valour and prowess of
+the great soldier-king, William of Orange. Sarsfield, Earl of Lucan, the
+beloved of damsels and dames, was the hero of this period. A handsome,
+large-limbed, brawny soldier, towering over the tallest of his dragoons,
+and true as the steel he wore, he was a fitting leader of a forlorn
+hope. Originally, one of the "Gentlemen of the Guard" under the Merrie
+Monarch, his defence of Limerick was a military achievement worthy of
+the ambition of any general; nor were his Williamite opponents slow to
+cordially appreciate his valour. But he was fated to die, "on a far,
+foreign field." The sieges of Limerick led up to its name of the City of
+the Broken Treaty. William of Nassau, having routed King James in
+August, 1690, invested the city with 35,000 men. Tyrconnel and Lauzun,
+Commander of the French allies, had cleared out, considering that the
+place could not be defended. Sarsfield, although not in command, with
+other kindred spirits, decided to defend the position. The heavy
+ordnance of the Williamites, while on the way to the scene of siege, was
+surprised at night at Ballyneety by Sarsfield and a hero called
+"Galloping O'Hogan," and the guns spiked and the ammunition mined and
+fired. Auxiliary artillery was, however, brought into camp, and the
+assault delivered. The guns breached the walls, the outworks were
+carried, but before the garrison could pour in, the townspeople--men and
+women--the latter, vieing in valour, flowed out and swept away all
+opposition. The siege was raised. But a year later, Ginckle again
+invested the place by land and sea. After three months' defence,
+Sarsfield agreed to capitulate, the chief conditions of the treaty
+being, that Catholics should be admitted to practice their religion
+without hindrance, and that the Jacobite garrison should march out with
+the honours of war. The latter condition was kept, but when Sarsfield
+and his regiments had gone beyond the seas, the former was shamefully
+violated. By the Thomond may be seen the Treaty Stone, on which the
+capitulation papers were signed, October 3rd, 1691. In the Cathedral
+place is the modern monument to Sarsfield. The castle, which was built
+by King John--now a store--is an excellent example of the military
+architecture introduced into Ireland by the Normans. The Shannon, the
+largest river in Ireland, flows through the city. Limerick lace is
+valued wherever people of taste are. The industry still thrives; but the
+former greatness of the glove manufacturers has departed. Bacon curing
+is the great industry of the city to-day, and the names of Denny,
+Matterson, and Shaw--the principal manufacturers--have become household
+words. The greatest factory in Limerick, however, is belonging to the
+famous Condensed Milk Company, organized through the enterprise of Sir
+Thomas Cleeve. The milk of some 15,000 cows contributes to the huge
+output of this great concern.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Sarsfield Statue, Limerick.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Castleconnell, near
+Limerick.]
+
+
+LIMERICK DISTRICT.
+
+From Limerick tours may be made into North Kerry by rail, or by combined
+steamer and coach service along the Shannon lakes and shores. The
+amalgamation of the railway services in the south and west of Ireland
+has contributed greatly to the many facilities which, with an improved
+railway accommodation, now await the tourist.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Falls of Doonass-River
+Shannon.]
+
+Some seven miles from Limerick, and about the same distance from
+Killaloe, is the pretty little town of ~Castleconnell~. The place was of
+yore a stronghold of the O'Brien's, and to-day the remains of the old
+castle from which the village takes the name still stand. During the
+Jacobite wars the place was of importance as one of the military keys to
+the Province of Connaught, and Sarsfield and Ginkel alternately
+garrisoned and fought for its possession. The village is situated
+delightfully beside "The lordly Shannon," and is famous as a resort for
+anglers. The scenery in the immediate vicinity is unsurpassed, and the
+Shannon here has been described as possessing "The majesty of the Amazon
+with the grandeur of the Rhine." Taking the well-appointed Shannon Hotel
+as our centre many most enjoyable excursions can be made to the
+beautiful places in the adjoining district. The hotel itself is only
+five minutes' walk from the far-famed Rapids of Doonass, and beside the
+celebrated Chalybeate Spa. Beneath a list of excursions is given of some
+of the pleasant driving and boating trips that may be made. It cannot
+pretend to be exhaustive, however, and is only offered as suggestive.
+Assume that the visitor has three days at his disposal--
+
+     ~First Day.~--Start from Hotel, walk to Chalybeate Spa, World's
+     End, Old Castle and Grounds (admission by pass), cross River at
+     Ferry, walk to "Old Turrett," from which a grand view of the
+     "Rapids" may be obtained--the Scenery at this particular point is
+     unsurpassed--visit St. Synan's Well, return to Hotel, drive to
+     "Clare Glens," see the Cascades--this is one of the most
+     picturesque spots imaginable and well repays a visit.
+
+     ~Second Day.~--DAY TRIP ON THE LORDLY SHANNON (LOUGH
+     DERG).--Take train from Castleconnell Station at 10.40 a.m.
+     for Killaloe where the Shannon Development Co.'s Steamer awaits the
+     arrival of the Train to convey passengers for a Cruise on Lough
+     Derg. Steamer returns to Killaloe about 5.30 p.m., the Train leaves
+     Killaloe at 6.10 p.m. for Castleconnell, arriving at 6.41 p.m.; or
+     take car from Hotel to meet the 8.15 a.m. Steamer at Killaloe for
+     Portumna, return by down Steamer to Killaloe, thence by 6.10 p.m.
+     Train for Castleconnell. This Cruise embraces the whole length of
+     Lough Derg, and affords a grand combination of lake and mountain
+     scenery.
+
+     ~Third Day.~--A selection from the following may be made:--
+
+  (_a_) Drive to Limerick City. See its magnificent Churches,
+  Treaty Stone, etc, etc.
+
+  (_b_) To Killaloe. St. Flannan's Cathedral, a very ancient edifice,
+  Oratory with stone roof, Brian Boru's Fort, and Cragg
+  Hill, from which a very pretty view of Lough Derg may be
+  obtained.
+
+  (_c_) To Glenstal Castle and Grounds (admission by pass).
+
+  (_d_) To Keeper Hill. A splendid panoramic view of the
+  surrounding country afforded from the summit of this Hill,
+  including Lough Derg and "reaches" of the Shannon below
+  Limerick.
+
+  (_e_) To Adare Manor (admission by pass).
+
+  (_f_) Or take Row Boat from Castleconnell to Killaloe _via_
+  O'Brien's Bridge, or to Limerick _via_ Plassy.
+
+  (_g_) Take train from Castleconnell Station at 10.40 a.m. for
+  Nenagh, drive from Nenagh to Dromineer, take Steamer
+  from Dromineer to Killaloe, thence rail or car to Castleconnell.
+
+  (_h_) Or take train from Castleconnell Station at 10.40 a.m. for
+  Killaloe, take Steamer Killaloe to Dromineer, drive from
+  Dromineer to Nenagh, thence rail to Castleconnell.
+
+  (_i_) Lower Shannon Steamer Trip to Kilrush (see special programme
+  of Sailings).
+
+
+Above a bend in the river at the Falls of Doonass the "Rapids" begin,
+and eddying and whirling through the rocks run for nearly half a mile
+along the surface of the river. It is to the angler, however,
+Castleconnell will prove most attractive. The season commences on the
+1st February, and closes on the 31st October. Trout, pike, and perch
+fishing free; salmon and grilse fishing by arrangement. The fishing-rods
+manufactured at Castleconnell have won a world-wide reputation for
+Messrs. Enright and Sons, and Mr. Jack Enright has himself won the
+record as a long distance fly caster. A writer in _The Fishing Gazette_
+having dealt in an appreciative article with Castleconnell gives
+valuable information as to the names and situations of the more
+important pools on the river.
+
+The fisheries in the Castleconnell district taken in rotation from
+below, are: the Prospect or Clareville Fishery, on the Limerick side of
+the river (this means that the fishery extends to midstream; adjoining
+it on the Clare side, and immediately opposite, is the Landscape
+Fishery. Both of these are well-known salmon and peel catches. A few of
+the best pools in Prospect are Pinnee, Salahoughe, Feemoor, and
+Commogue. On Landscape the best pools are Poulahoo, Pallaherro, and
+Filebegs).
+
+Adjoining the Prospect Fishery, on the Limerick side of the river, is
+the New Garden Fishery, which contains the pools of Moreagh, Glassogue,
+Black Weir, and Sporting Eddy. Next to this, on the Limerick side, is
+the Hermitage Fishery, which contains some famous catches, such as Back
+of Leap, Fallahassa, Poolbeg, the Commodore, Bunnymoor, and Head of
+Moreagh. Still on the Limerick side, we next reach the Woodland's
+Fishery, a picturesque portion of the Shannon, and here are the pools of
+Panlaides, Drarhus, Thunnavullion, and Long Eddy. Next is reached the
+Castle Fishery, and the pools here are Balcraheen, Lackaleen, and the
+Lough, the last affording several courses of fly fishing. Still on the
+Limerick side the World's End Fishery adjoins the Castle Fishery, and
+the pools here are the Pantry, the Kitchen, and the Over the Weir.
+
+Returning to the Clare side of the river the fishery next to Landscape
+is the famous Doonas, the lower part of which contains the pools of
+Poolcoom, the Stand, Black Weir, Faalgorribs, Franklin's Eddy, and the
+Old Door, while the upper part includes Lickenish, the Dancing Hole, Old
+Turf, Lurgah, Lacka, and Sallybush. Next on the Clare side we reach the
+Summer Hill Fishery, part of which is opposite the Woodland's Fishery
+and part opposite the Castle Fishery. The pools on Summer Hill are the
+Black Eddy, Clare side of Drarhus, Thunahancha, Figar, Clare side of
+Lackaleen, and Clare side of the Lough. After this the Erinagh Fishery
+is reached, and here the pools are Gorribs and side of the big Eddy.
+
+In the spring salmon fishing is pursued principally with Devon minnows
+as lures, the "cullough" running a good second favourite. Phantom
+minnows and the very large spinning Shannon flies are also useful. A bit
+later on the prawn takes precedence, the bigger the prawn the better. As
+the season advances the lure, whatever it may be--fly, minnow, prawn, or
+what not--should decrease in size until October, when again they should
+assume larger proportions, but not so big as in the spring. Towards the
+latter end of March, and onwards for the rest of the season, artificial
+flies are are almost exclusively used. Truly wonderful specimens of the
+fly dresser's art are some of the Shannon patterns. Fancy a salmon fly
+dressed on an 8-o hook! Yet this is at times absolutely necessary to
+ensure success. The best patterns for various times of the year are--For
+February, March, and April, big Shannon Blue Fly, the Black Goldfinch,
+the Jock Scot, and the Yellow Lahobber; for May, June, and July, Purple
+Mixture, tinsel bodied Green Parrot, purple bodied Green Parrot, Silver
+and Blue Doctors, Purple Widgeon, Orange and Grouse, and Thunder and
+Lightning. Towards the end of the season here, as elsewhere, strange
+fancy patterns will frequently prove successful. The most suitable
+patterns of trout flies (the size of which depends entirely upon the
+height of the water) are--Orange and Grouse, Green Rail, Purple Rail,
+Black Rail, Orange Rail, March Brown, Hare's Ear, silver-tinselled body
+Black Rail, and Orange and Grouse with a sprig of Guinea Fowl or Green
+Parrot in wing.
+
+The tackle for the coarse fish is of the ordinary character.
+
+At the foot of Lough Derg stands ~Killaloe~, an ideal resting place for
+an angler. The cathedral is of some interest, and in the vicinity the
+Protestant Bishop's palace stands. The bridge connecting the town with
+the village of Ballina has thirteen arches, and the huge weir helps as a
+breakwater. Shortly above the bridge of old time stood Kincora, the
+fortified palace of Brian Boru; its glory has departed, and all that
+remains is a mound, crowned with a grove of trees. Here Brian of the
+Tribes held his sway; and still the peasant in Munster, wishing to
+express his welcome, says in Gaelic--"Were mine the boire of the Dane or
+the wine of Kincora, it would be poured for you." Here it was that the
+Norse King, Magnus, wintered early in the twelfth century, and found a
+wife for his son, Sigurd, in the house of Brian. M'Laig, the bard of
+Brian Boru, after the death of his king in 1014, made a lamentation,
+which Mangan thus translated:--
+
+  "Oh! where Kincora is Brian the Great?
+  And where is the beauty that once was thine?
+  Oh! where are the princes and nobles that sate
+  At the feast in thy halls, and drank the red wine?
+    Where! oh, Kincora.
+  They are gone, those heroes of royal birth,
+  Who plundered no church and broke no trust,
+  It is weary for me to be living on earth,
+  When they, oh, Kincora, are below in the dust.
+    Lo, of Kincora."
+
+From Killaloe, northwards for twenty-five miles, Lough Derg at times
+expands in width over eight miles, where its distant shores form a sky
+line--hedged in with Tipperary and Clare Mountains. The lough loses none
+of its picturesque attractiveness to the sportsman, who is informed that
+the whole of the fishing is free.
+
+From Limerick as centre, as we have said, tours may be made into North
+Kerry.
+
+To the average tourist North Kerry is a _terra incognita_, and yet from
+the pleasant pasture lands around "Sweet Adare" in Limerick to where the
+distant mountain of Caherconree sees his regal head reflected in the
+sea--there lies a beautiful land. Beyond Patrickswell, on the Maigue, is
+the little village of Adare, once the camping ground and stronghold of
+"those very great scorners of death," the Desmond Geraldines. Still the
+ruins of Desmond Castle, and of three abbeys, tell the tale that here
+once, beside a citadel of strength, were places of religion and refuge.
+Now, in the depth of the retreat of sylvan splendour, the Earl of
+Dunraven has his noble mansion.[1] At Adare, as well as at Ballingrane,
+six miles away, still are many evidences of the Palatine plantations,
+which were effected here in the eighteenth century. In 1709 a fleet was
+sent to Rotterdam by Queen Anne, and brought to England some 7,000
+refugees from the German Palatinate. Of these, over 3,000 were settled
+in this part of the County Limerick. They were allowed eight acres of
+land for each man, woman, and child, at _5s._ per acre; and the
+Government engaged to pay their rent for twenty years, and supplied
+every man with a musket to protect himself. Industrious and frugal, the
+exiles throve in the land of their adoption; many of them emigrated to
+America, and only a comparatively small number of families still remain.
+These, however, preserve, besides the names, many of the characteristics
+of their predecessors--as Dr. R. T. Mitchell, Inspector of
+Registration in Ireland, testifies in his survey of this very
+district:--"Differing originally in language, though even the oldest of
+the present generation know nothing of the German tongue spoken or
+written, as well as in race and religion, from the natives amongst whom
+they were planted, these Palatines still cling together like the members
+of a clan, and worship together. Most of them have a distinctly foreign
+type of features, and are strongly built, swarthy in complexion, dark
+haired, and brown eyed. The comfortable houses built in 1709 are in
+ruins now. The original square of Court Matrix in the ruined wall can be
+traced, and also, in the very centre of this square the foundations of
+the little Meeting House in which John Wesley occasionally preached to
+them in the interval, 1750-1765. Modern houses stand there now, but not
+closely grouped together. They are all comfortable in appearance, some
+thatched, some slated, some with one story, others with two; nearly all
+have a neat little flower garden in front, and very many have an orchard
+beside or immediately behind the house. There is all the appearance of
+thrift and industry among them." From ~Ballingrane~, a branch line
+passing Askeaton, with its ruined Castle and Abbey ruins, to ~Foynes~, a
+good harbour, from which passage can be made to Kilrush, and thence per
+rail to Kilkee. From the junction the main line runs by ~Rathkeale~ and
+~Newcastle~, where there is a ruined castle of the Knights Templars, and
+by Abbeyfeale and Kilmorna, where Mr. Pierce Mahony bred and kept his
+stud of famous Kerry cattle, to Listowel, an old market town which
+figured in the Desmond rebellion.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Adare Abbey, Croom.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin_ Adare Manor.]
+
+From Listowel the Lartigue railway, unique in the British Isles, runs to
+~Ballybunion~, a beautiful watering place, remarkable for its sea-caves
+and old castle. ~Ardfert~ is remarkable for its ruined Abbey and
+Cathedral, both dedicated to St. Brendon, the story of whose voyage to
+the New World was one of the subjects mentioned at the court of
+Ferdinand and Isabella by Columbus, when inducing them to assist him in
+his mission of discovery. ~Tralee~ is the largest town in the Kingdom of
+Kerry. It is one of the most thriving towns in the south of Ireland, and
+is situated in the vicinity of marine and mountain scenery. Those
+interested in the revival of industry in Ireland will do well to visit
+the Kerry Knitting Co.'s Factory, as well as the fine bacon-curing
+establishment of the Wholesale Co-operative Society which has been
+erected under the management of the well known Mr. Joseph Prosser. At
+Spa and Fenit there is good sea-bathing, and on the Dingle Promontory
+the ascent of Mount Brandon may be made. From Dingle excursions can
+easily be taken to Slea Head, by Ventry, and under the Eagles' Mountain,
+and within sight of the Blasket Islands. ~Smerwick~ has in its
+neighbourhood a coast line of mighty cliffs, the most remarkable of
+which is called the ~Three Sisters~. Smerwick was the scene of the
+massacre of seven hundred Spaniards, who had surrendered in the
+sixteenth century to Lord Deputy Grey's forces. The bloody affair is the
+blackest stain in the careers of the gallant Raleigh and the gentle
+Spenser. Between Smerwick and Ballydavid Head the well preserved remains
+of the ~Oratory of Gallerius~ may be seen.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lartique Railway, Ballybunion.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Ballybunion.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Ballybunion.]
+
+    For information as to Sport to be had in the Limerick District, see
+    end of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf, Fishing,
+    Shooting, Cycling, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+The Shannon Lakes.
+
+DUKE OF YORK ROUTE.
+
+
+The Shannon Development Company run during the season a service of
+steamers between Killaloe and Dromod (county Leitrim). The whole of the
+journey from ~Killaloe~ to Dromod--about one hundred miles--is
+interesting and full of variety, the shores and lakes of the lordly
+river presenting an ever-changing panorama of beautiful scenes. About
+Killaloe the views are very fine. The mountains of Clare and Tipperary
+shadow the town on either side, and away to the north for twenty-three
+miles stretches Lough Derg. Going up the lake, the first stopping place
+is at Scariff, which overlooks the beautiful Inniscattery or Holy
+Island. The reach from here to Portumna is crowded with islands, and on
+both shores are ruined castles and finely wooded demesnes. Dromineer, on
+the opposite bank, four and a quarter miles from Nenagh, is the next
+station. Nearly opposite Portumna, with its ruined and blackened castle,
+are the ruins of the monastery of Tirdaglass.
+
+[Illustration: Sailing on the Shannon.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kincora, Killaloe.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Shannon Steamer.]
+
+The ancient city of Portumna was once the chief pass and means of
+communication between Connaught and North Munster. Between Portumna, at
+the head of Lough Derg and Banagher, are the rich meadow lands of
+Galway, along which the river winds tranquilly, passing beautifully
+wooded islands; its banks green with rich, low-lying pastures. A few
+miles from Shannon Bridge is Clonmacnoise, over which hang many ancient
+memories of learning, of wars, and of worship. Near Athlone is a point
+in the river where the Counties of Westmeath, Roscommon, and King's
+County meet, and the waters of Lough Ree wash the shores of County
+Roscommon on the one side and of Westmeath and Longford on the other.
+Lough Ree is but little known to the tourist; and yet this lake, with
+its rocky shores full of indentations, and its shoals of sparkling
+islands, is one of the loveliest in Ireland. King John's Castle, on the
+Roscommon side of the lake, is a magnificent Norman ruin, and the town
+of Roscommon--which is not far from the brink of the lake--also contains
+the remains of a fine castle and of a Dominican Friary. The castle,
+which is flanked by four towers of massive masonry, was built in the
+thirteenth century by Sir Robert de Ufford, and afterwards suffered many
+changes of fortune; it is now the property of The O'Conor Don. The abbey
+is chiefly interesting as containing the sculptured tomb of Phelim
+Cathal O'Connor.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lough Ree, Shannon Lakes.]
+
+Circular tourist tickets for one day trips are issued by the Railway
+Company. Details will be seen on summer time tables.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Cork and District.
+
+CORK.
+
+
+Enshrined in song and _saga_, set in the beautiful valley of a romantic
+river, Cork is one of the pleasantest places within the four shores of
+"the most distressful country." It is the capital of the rich Province
+of Munster, "the wheat of Ireland," says a Gaelic proverb, and while it
+preserves the characteristics of an old Irish town, here, too, the
+traveller, familiar with the quaint cities of the Continent, will meet
+with much that is suggestive of foreign scenes.
+
+Cork sits snugly at the foot of, and leans her back up against, high
+hills that shelter her from the north, and the breeze that blows up from
+the sea is fresh and mildly bracing. From a height to the north
+overlooking the city a bird's-eye view can be had of the entire
+surroundings, and of what the poet Spenser called--
+
+  "The pleasant Lee, that like an island fayre
+  Encloseth Cork in his divided flood."
+
+Away to the west the eye can easily trace the river, winding with haste
+to the sea, through the barony of Muskerry, "the fair country," from its
+fountain home over the hills and far away.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Patrick-street, Cork.]
+
+More than halfway along the Mardyke Walk there is a sidepath leading
+down to a ferry across the Lee. Here a good view may be had of the river
+looking towards the city, with Sunday's Well, Blair's Castle, and
+Shandon standing high on the hill.
+
+The history of the foundation of Cork City, and its progress through the
+centuries, is well authenticated. Towards the close of the sixth
+century, the place was founded by Lochan, son of Amirgin, the great
+smith to Tiernach M'Hugh, the proud chief of the O'Mahonys. Lochan has
+since come to be called St. Finbarr. His feast day is a retrenched
+holiday in the diocese of Cork, and his patron day is kept by the
+peasantry at the shrine of Gougane Barra, by the cradle of the river
+Lee. The Irish name, Cork, signifies that the locality was a marsh, and
+in the life of its founder it is described as a "land of many waters."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Marina, Cork.]
+
+For less than three hundred years the little city throve, and then came
+the Sea Rovers, hungry for spoil. In 820 they burned down Cork, carrying
+away as pillage the silver coffin wherein St. Finbarr was buried.
+Shortly afterwards they returned, and seized on the marshes lying
+beneath Gill Abbey Rock, fortified them, and founded another little
+city--but their own. There they sang their "Mass of the Lances; it began
+at the rising of the sun," and, as the Four Masters assure us,
+"wheresoever they marched they were escorted by fire."
+
+But in time the Rovers were absorbed, and race hatreds died out. They
+paid tribute to the MacCarthys, and were married and given in marriage
+to the Irish. Merovingian Kings came to buy and sell in Cork, and the
+Sagas of the North tell of many a hardy Norseman who fell captive to the
+maidens of Munster. To this day the Danish blood moulds the nature of
+many in Cork, and among the men especially the passionate affection for
+the sea is a characteristic. When the Normans invaded Ireland they found
+Cork a Danish fortress. They broke the power of the Danes in a sea
+fight, and won over the allegiance of MacCarthy, the old King of Cork,
+through the wiles of a woman. The strangers had not been long in the
+city when they, like the Danes before them, were absorbed, and became
+more Irish than the Irish themselves. As their island city grew in
+opulence, they began to assert an independence similar to the free
+cities of the Continent. A historical writer of repute points out that
+they were practically independent of external authority. Their edicts
+had nearly the force of laws. They levied taxes, and regulated commerce.
+They judged, pilloried, and hanged offenders. To suit themselves they
+modified the English laws of property. They set up a mint of their own,
+and their money had to be declared by the English Parliament to be
+"utterly damned."
+
+Their audacity can be imagined from the part they played in Perkin
+Warbeck's rebellion of 1492. They decked him out "with some clothes of
+silk," and John Walters, the Mayor, insisting that the poor Fleming was
+son to the Duke of Clarence, demanded that the Lord Deputy should
+declare him King. Failing in this a number of Cork merchants sent him to
+France, where they duped the King, and induced the Duchess of Burgundy
+to give them armament and money. They then sailed for Kent, and having
+landed there, proclaimed their foundling "Richard the Fourth, King of
+England and Lord of Ireland." But the sequel of all this bravura
+behaviour was not so happy, as Warbeck and Walters lost their heads, and
+Cork lost its charter.
+
+In 1847 the city suffered fearfully from the ravages of famine and
+famine fever. The failure of the potato crop drove the unfortunate,
+hunger-stricken peasantry into the city for sustenance; and it has been
+estimated that upwards of a million of people emigrated in these unhappy
+years through the port of Cork. During the Fenian movement, 1865-67,
+Cork was a hotbed of treason, and more prisoners were sentenced from
+there than from all the other parts of Ireland put together. Thus, in
+the nineteenth century, the name of "Rebel Cork," which was earned so
+far back as the time of Perkin Warbeck, was still deserved.
+
+The manners of the people, gentle and simple, rich and poor, are
+perfect. There is, perhaps, too often a tendency to adopt your view of
+anything or everything with the most accommodating agreeableness. This
+is very pleasant, if not always sincere, but in this respect a thing
+never to be forgotten is that Cork is only a few miles from Blarney, and
+
+  "There is a stone there, whoever kisses,
+    Oh! he never misses to grow eloquent.
+  'Tis he may clamber to a lady's chamber,
+    Or become a Member of Parliament.
+
+  A clever spouter, he'll sure turn out, or
+    An 'out-an'-outer' to be let alone;
+  Don't hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him,
+    Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone."
+
+Thackeray, like many another man before his time and since, has paid
+tribute to the loveliness of the girls of Cork. There is a graceful
+charm about them before which the most inveterate bachelor succumbs. The
+accents of the Siren singers were never so insinuating and caressing as
+the Munster brogue as it slips off the tongue of a gentlewoman. Blue
+eyes predominate, but are excelled in lustre by what Froude has been
+pleased to call "the cold grey eyes of the dark Celt of the south of
+Ireland." Edmund Spencer, when he was not busy "undertaking" Rapparees,
+or smoking Raleigh's fragrant weed--"than which there is no more fair
+herb under the broad canopy of heaven"--wooed and won and wedded a fair
+woman of Cork; not of the city, though, but of the county. She was a
+country lass, as he is at pains to point out to the Shandon belles who
+fain would vie with her:--
+
+  "Tell me, ye merchant daughters, did ye see
+  So fayre a creature in your town before?
+  Her goodlie eyes, like sapphyres shining bright;
+  Her forehead, ivory white;
+  Her lips like cherries charming men to byte."
+
+There is nothing of peculiar interest about the streets of Cork but
+their number, their narrowness, and the irregularity of the houses. St.
+Patrick's-street, which is the principal thoroughfare, has many handsome
+shops, and winds its way in three curves through the city.
+
+From the "Dyke," as it is locally known, through the "Band Field"--the
+baby park of Cork--we can cross to an entrance to the Queen's College on
+the Western-road. The College itself is a handsome building of white
+Cork limestone, in the later Tudor style, forming three sides of a
+quadrangle, and consisting of lecture-rooms, museum, examination hall,
+&c. It is built in the centre of well-laid pleasure grounds, which are
+open to the public, and which formerly were the site of St. Finbarr's
+old monastery. During the session proper, practically from November to
+June, visitors will not be admitted through the building without an
+official order, which may be had at the Registrar's office.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Queen's College, Cork.]
+
+During the vacation the steward or assistant officials are in attendance
+to conduct visitors. The large palm-house is one of the most successful
+in Ireland, and the Crawford Observatory will repay a visit. The grounds
+were laid out under the personal supervision of the late president, Dr.
+W. K. Sullivan, a distinguished scientist. While at the south side of
+the city, St. Finbarr's Cathedral[2] (Church of Ireland), eastward from
+the College, should be seen. It is a very dignified design of the French
+Early Pointed style. The nave, aisles, and transepts are grouped under
+three lofty towers with spires.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ St. Finbarr's Cathedral, Cork.]
+
+From the foot of the street a few minutes' walk will bring us under the
+old bi-coloured steeple, which contains the famous Shandon Bells. The
+church was built in 1772. The steeple is unique, inasmuch as the
+southern and western sides are of white limestone, and the northern and
+eastern red sandstone--
+
+  "Parti-coloured, like Cork people,
+  Red and white, stands Shandon steeple."
+
+But the "Bells" are the chief attraction, and the quaint inscriptions on
+them amuse the curious. In the stillness of a summer night their sweet
+chimes sound with peculiar cadence across the waters which encircle the
+old city of the Lee. The charter song of Cork is:--
+
+  THE BELLS OF SHANDON.
+
+  With deep affection and recollection
+    I often think of the Shandon bells--
+  Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood,
+    Fling round my cradle their magic spells;
+  On this I ponder, where'er I wander,
+    And thus grow fonder, sweet Cork, of thee;
+      With thy bells of Shandon,
+      That sound so grand on
+  The pleasant waters of the river Lee.
+
+  I have heard bells chiming full many a clime in,
+    Tolling sublime in cathedral shrine;
+  While at a glib rate brass tongues would vibrate,
+    But all their music spoke nought to thine;
+  For memory dwelling on each proud swelling
+    Of thy belfry knelling its bold notes free,
+      Made the bells of Shandon
+      Sound far more grand on
+  The pleasant waters of the river Lee.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Shandon Church, Cork.]
+
+Francis Sylvester Mahony, author of this ballad, known in the world of
+literature as "Father Prout," was born in Cork in 1804. He was educated
+for the priesthood, but spent the best years of his life in London, as a
+magazine writer.
+
+Further north than Shandon is St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral, an
+ample piece of architecture, not particularly attractive. Coming down
+the hill towards the city on Pope's-quay, St. Mary's Dominican Church
+may be seen. It is a very beautiful church, of the composite style of
+architecture. The Grecian portico is remarkable for the gracefulness and
+justness of its proportions, and is very much admired. It is, perhaps,
+the most chaste building of its kind in the kingdom.
+
+Besides the churches and public buildings already enumerated, the
+Courthouse and the Municipal Schools of Science and Art should be seen.
+The Courthouse is in Great George-street. In a recent fire there many
+valuable records were destroyed. Courthouses seem to be ill-fated in
+Cork. The old Courthouse fell during the trial for treason in the Penal
+days of the Catholic Bishop of Cork. The present Courthouse was burnt on
+Good Friday, 1891.
+
+The punning, duel-fighting, hanging judge, Lord Norbury, of whom the
+country people still say, "He'd hang a man as soon as knock the head off
+a rush," often dispensed with an escort in the most exciting times, and
+rode here on circuit with a brace of pistols at his saddle-bow. But he
+was a man of uncommon determination. Once, when his acts were unusually
+unjudicial, he was reprimanded from Dublin Castle and threatened with
+compulsory retirement. He rode instanter to Dublin, and never stopped
+until he drew rein at the Castle gate. He demanded to see the Lord
+Lieutenant, but the then Viceroy, Lord Talbot, was in England. He was
+ushered into the presence of a courteous official, who was a little
+astonished to be authoritatively asked, "Who are you?" "I, sir," said
+the Under Secretary, whom he addressed, "am Mr. Gregory." "Then you be
+d----d, and don't Sir me," said his Lordship. "Fifty-two years ago I
+began life at the Irish Bar with fifty guineas and a case of pistols.
+Here it is! I have fought my way to preferment. Within a few months I
+expect a letter of an unpleasant character from the Castle. Tell the
+writer he may take his choice of these, and send me his second." History
+does not record whether "the letter of an unpleasant character" was ever
+written.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Guy and Co., Cork._ Cork Exhibition.]
+
+The Municipal Buildings of Science and Art in Emmet-place can bear
+comparison with those of any town of the same size in Great Britain or
+Ireland. The sculpture and picture galleries are open to visitors. The
+splendid collection of casts from the antiques in the Vatican Gallery
+were executed under the superintendence of Canova, and sent by Pope Pius
+VII. to George IV. The ship which carried them by long sea from Italy
+put into Cork, and was there detained for harbour dues. The King,
+instead of paying, transferred the Papal gift to the Cork Society of
+Arts.
+
+A paltry exhibit of coins, antiquities, and fossils forms the Museum.
+Although Cork County has been one of the richest in Ireland in "finds"
+of gold and metal work of the ancient Irish, they are absolutely
+unrepresented.
+
+
+CORK DISTRICT.
+
+The county of Cork is the largest shire in Ireland. The pleasure seeker,
+the artist, the antiquary, the sportsman, the invalid, will each find
+within its broad barriers much to meet his wants. Sir Walter Scott is
+credited with the statement that the history of this single county
+contains more romance than the history of the lowlands and highlands of
+his own dear land of the mountain and the flood.
+
+The surface of the county Cork is as diversified as the people. In some
+places, such as Kilworth, Mushera, and Ballyhoura, the elevation is
+considerable, elsewhere it sinks to a low-lying plain, such as at
+Kilcrea, where the bog is that tradition says saw the last wolf in
+Ireland killed, and Imokilly, where the sea is yearly eating into the
+lowlands. The county is watered by no less than twenty rivers of
+importance.
+
+Making the city the headquarters for a few days, there are many places
+of interest in the vicinity which may with ease be visited. The
+excellent tram system may be availed of by visitors to the sights in its
+immediate vicinity. A drive by Douglas and Vernamount can be
+recommended. Douglas was an old town, famous for its manufacture of sail
+cloth, and in recent years a village providence in the person of the
+late Mr. John Morrogh has resuscitated industry in the district by the
+establishment of a splendidly equipped tweed factory. With a fine day
+and a good "outside jaunting-car" to travel the five miles' drive to
+~Blarney Castle~ will be found most enjoyable. The famous stone, which
+no one should miss kissing, is set in the parapet wall. The word
+"Blarney," meaning pleasant "deluderin' talk," is said to have
+originated at the Court of Queen Elizabeth. MacCarthy, the then
+chieftain over the clan of that name, resided at Blarney, and was
+repeatedly asked to come in from "off his keeping," as the phrase in the
+State Papers goes, to abjure the system of Tanistry by which the clan
+elected the chief, and take tenure of his lands direct from the Crown.
+He was always promising with fair words and soft speech to do what was
+desired, but never could be got to come to the sticking point. The
+Queen, it is told, when one of his speeches was brought to her, said,
+"This is all Blarney; what he says he never means."
+
+By the Great Southern and Western Railway the castle can also be
+reached. By this route a good stretch of the Upper Lee is seen, with
+Carrigrohane Castle, which belonged to the M'Sweeneys, beetling high on
+a rock, and the line runs through the picturesque valley of the
+Sournagh, which may be likened to a Swiss ravine. All the remains of the
+former greatness of Blarney consists of the ruins of two mansions, one
+of the fifteenth century, and the other of the Elizabethan period. In
+its time the place was one of considerable strength, and was erected by
+Cormac MacCarthy Laider, or the Strong-handed chief of his name. Most of
+the outworks and defences are gone. The old square keep, ivy-crowned,
+rises from a huge limestone rock, around which the Coomaun or crooked
+river winds. The Castle is over 120 feet high; the great staircase at
+the right-hand side leads through the entire building, here and there
+small vaulted chambers being set in the massive walls, which are in
+places nine feet thick. The arched room, of which the projecting window
+with three lights overlooks the streamlet below, is known as the Earl's
+Chamber. The last fight in which Blarney Castle figured, was that in
+which the Confederates held out for King Charles in 1642. It fell before
+the superior ordnance of Cromwell's commander, Ireton. It was never
+afterwards used for a dwelling-house, being almost completely
+dismantled. From the summit of the Castle a good view of the surrounding
+country can be had. To the west lies Muskerry, with what Ruskin calls
+"the would-be hills" rising towards Mushera Mountain. To the north is
+St. Ann's Hydropathic Establishment, on a gentle slope, surrounded by
+well-wooded parks. In the village beneath is the well-known Blarney
+Tweed Factory of Messrs. Martin Mahony Brothers, through which visitors
+may be shown when convenient to the courteous proprietors. The "Rock
+Close," which is at the foot of the Castle at the southern side, is one
+beautiful jungle of foliage, in which myrtle, ivy, and arbutus
+intertwine with the rowan tree and the silver hazel.
+
+[Illustration: Blarney Castle.]
+
+If we have gone to Blarney on the "outside jaunting-car," the return
+journey may be made by Bawnafinny, Kerry Pike, and the Sournagh Valley,
+and Northern Lee road. Beneath Bawnafinny, "the pastures of beauty," we
+get a glimpse of Blarney Lake, a broad sheet of water bordered with tall
+trees, above which the old Castle raises its head. It would gladden the
+heart of Izaak Walton, as it is full of fish, among which is the famous
+gillaroo trout, which will not rise to the tantalising fly. The
+peasantry have a legend, that within the lake lies hidden the treasure
+and plate of the last of the MacCarthys, who hid them there sooner than
+allow his conquerors to gain possession of it. The secret is said to be
+known to three of the old family, and before one dies he tells it to
+the other, so that it may be recovered when the MacCarthy "comes to his
+own again." The milk girls also on May mornings are said to have
+frequently seen fairy cows along the banks of the lake, which vanish
+into thin mists when approached by human footsteps!
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Blackrock Castle, Cork.]
+
+~Ballincollig~ is a place of some interest. The powder mill is a
+long-established factory, and gives considerable employment in the
+neighbourhood. The large cavalry barracks is amongst the finest in the
+south of Ireland.
+
+~Blackrock~ is little better than a fishing village; but the suburbs
+between it and Cork are filled with villa residences, pleasure grounds,
+and market gardens. Beside the road, between the city and the village,
+are situated the well-known nursery gardens belong to Hartland. The
+daffodil farm, when the flowers are full, is a sight very difficult to
+surpass in the three Kingdoms. Maxwellstown House, on the slope of a
+southern hill, was the scene of a tragedy, not yet forgotten in Cork.
+After a marriage _dejeuner_, the bride retired to her dressing-room to
+don her going-away dress, but the bridegroom waited in vain for her
+return. She had died suddenly in the arms of those who attended her; and
+the story goes that the disconsolate lover dismissed the servants, shut
+up the house with everything just as it was, and went on his way out
+into the wide world alone. Long years afterwards, when news of his death
+came from a far-off land, his next-of-kin had the house re-opened, and
+found everything just as it had been left half a century before, after
+the wedding breakfast. The dust and cobwebs were cleared away, and all
+went to the hammer.
+
+Eastward, towards the harbour's mouth, there is much to be enjoyed.
+Excursionists may take the train direct from the Great Southern and
+Western Railway terminus, or by Passage from the Albert Station, and
+then by steamer to Queenstown. Taking the direct line the train runs
+almost parallel with the promenade called the Marina, which separates
+from the river side the broad pasture known as Cork Park, which is the
+local race course. A race meeting at Cork is well worth witnessing. The
+gay young bucks, described long ago by Arthur Young, still are with us,
+and they and their lady friends make a fine flutter during race week.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Queenstown Harbour.]
+
+~Passage~ (~West~) was once the busy site of ship-building and
+dock-yards, but the industry is no longer of anything like its original
+proportions. The town is an old-fashioned place, and has not escaped the
+pen of Father Prout, who, in what he calls "manifestly an imitation of
+that unrivalled dithyramb," The Groves of Blarney--with little of its
+humours and all its absurdity--signs the attractions of what he styles a
+fashionable Irish watering-place:--
+
+  "The town of Passage
+  Is both large and spacious,
+  And situate
+    Upon the say;
+  'Tis nate and dacent,
+  And quite adjacent
+  To come from Cork
+    On a summer's day."
+
+Steamers ply between the railway station at Passage and the many little
+towns around the port. ~Glenbrook~ and ~Monkstown~ are particularly
+picturesque. Above the latter, nestling in the trees, may be seen
+Monkstown Castle, the legend attached to which says it was built for one
+groat. The owner of the site, one of the Archdeckens, an Anglo-Irish
+family, having gone away to the wars in the Lowlands, his better-half
+promised him a pleasant surprise on his return. She employed a number of
+workmen to build the castle, a condition of the contract being that they
+should buy their food from her while so engaged. Truly, she was a shrewd
+woman. Her profits were such, that she had enough to pay the entire cost
+of the work, less one solitary groat.
+
+~Spike Island~ is mentioned in Church History as a present given by a
+Munster King to St. Cartach, of Lismore. In modern times it was used as
+a convict prison, the convicts' labour being employed in the
+construction of the fortifications around the harbour.
+
+~Queenstown~, or, to give it its old Irish name, Cove, is built upon an
+island. It is the paradise of naval pensioners, and the home of all
+nationalities, yet Irish is still a spoken tongue not a mile away,
+behind "Spy Hill." The magnificent Cathedral to St. Colman, the patron
+Saint of Cloyne, occupies a commanding position over the harbour. It is
+in the later florid Gothic architecture, and within one of its
+transepts is buried the celebrated Dr. Coppinger, a learned writer and
+member of the most famous and enduring of the Danish families to whom
+Ireland became a native land. In an old graveyard on the island, Charles
+Wolfe, the writer of the elegy on Sir John Moore, and Tobin, the
+dramatist, are buried. The panorama from Spy Hill embraces the
+enchanting river and the wide harbour, which is capable of holding all
+the ships in the British Navy within the line drawn from the two forts,
+Camden and Carlisle, which guard the entrance. Of Queenstown, the
+_Dublin Health Record_ says:--"The climate is remarkably mild and
+equable, and, at the same time, fairly dry and tonic, and is especially
+suitable as a winter and spring residence for persons with delicate
+chests, to sufferers from chronic catarrhal throat affections, and to
+convalescents from acute diseases. It is particularly appropriate as a
+seaside resort to persons requiring a soothing and sedative atmosphere.
+From the position of Queenstown, winds from the colder points are very
+little felt, and it is completely protected from the north, north-east,
+and north-west winds. The mean temperatures of the seasons are exactly
+similar to those at Torquay, the noted winter health resort in the south
+of England, and higher than those of Bournemouth, Hastings, and Ventnor.
+As a winter health resort, Queenstown possesses all the best natural and
+climatic advantages."
+
+The beach presents the most varied and motley sights to be seen anywhere
+in northern Europe. Merchant seamen from every port of the world
+congregate here; military and man-of-war sailors are ever present,
+pleasure-seeking yachtsmen, pilots and fishers mix with the melancholy
+groups of emigrants, or the irrepressible vendors of impossible wares.
+Beyond in the blue waters, His Majesty's flagship rides at anchor, one
+or more of the "ocean greyhounds," with dead slow engines, are steaming
+out between the forts; tenders, whale-boats, small steamers, tugs, and
+every craft that sails the sea, down to the familiar Munster "hooker,"
+are hurrying to ports far and near, or lying "idle as painted ships upon
+a painted ocean." Most of the Atlantic liners have offices here. Tenders
+convey the mails from the deep-water quays at the Great Southern and
+Western terminus out to the steamers, which usually ride in the fair way
+by the harbour's mouth. Queenstown is the principal port through which
+the emigrants leave Ireland. Young and old, when the "emigration fever"
+is rife, the tides of people may be seen flowing oceanwards. Sometimes
+they have a little money, and are going to better themselves; but most
+usually they are going out penniless to relatives abroad, or "just
+trusting in God." Not an unfrequent sight is to see bare-footed peasant
+children waiting for their turn to cross the gangway which leads to the
+New World. Perhaps they have nothing with them but "a pot of shamrock,"
+or a little mountain thrush or orange-billed blackbird, in a wicker
+cage, to make friends with "beyant the herring-pond." It is very
+curious, but very Irish, that they do not at all seem to want the
+sympathy that is lavished upon them by the onlookers. When they are
+leaving their native place, the "neighbours" hold an "American wake,"
+and in the morning, with heartrending embraces and wild caioning, give
+them the last "Bannact Dea Leat"--"God's blessing be on your way"; but
+when they come to Cove, the sorrow is smothered; they are buoyed up by
+that trusting faith in the future which is the first fibre in the Irish
+nature. They may look melancholy to us, but they themselves make merry,
+and before the "big ship" is but on the "Old Sea," as the Atlantic is
+called, the girls and young men are slipping through rollicking reels to
+improvised music "to show their heart's deep sorrow they are scorning."
+Perhaps, as the Gaelic proverb expresses it, "'Tis the heavy heart that
+has the lightest foot." But a truce to trouble. They tell a story of an
+emigrant and a grand trunk merchant at Queenstown which shows alike the
+hapless condition and happy-go-lucky heart of the Irishman. "Pat," said
+the merchant, "you're going to travel; will you buy a trunk?" "A trunk,"
+answered Pat, "an' for what, yerra?" "To put your clothes in, of
+course." "And meself go naked, is it? Och! lave off your gladiatoring;
+sure it's took up I'd be if I did that!"
+
+~Crosshaven~ and ~Aghada~, two watering places inside the harbour, are
+within easy reach of Cove by steamer, which calls at Currabinny Pier.
+The Owenabwee[3] river runs between Currabinny and Crosshaven; it is a
+beautiful, well-wooded stream which has been celebrated in a
+plaintive-aired Jacobite ballad, the "Lament of the Irish Maiden."
+
+  "On Carrigdhoun the heath is brown,
+    The clouds are dark on Ardnalee,
+  And many a stream comes rushing down
+    To swell the angry Owenabwee.
+  The moaning blast is whistling fast
+    Through many a leafless tree,
+  But I'm alone, for he is gone,
+    My hawk is flown, ochone machree."
+
+A few hundred yards from Crosshaven river there is a fiord of the
+Owenabwee, known as Drake's Pool. Here the great soldier-sailor, Sir
+Francis Drake, with his five little sloops, hid in 1587 from a
+formidable Spanish fleet. The Spaniards entered the harbour, but failing
+to find their quarry, put to sea again in high dudgeon.
+
+Near ~Aghada~, at the other side of the harbour, is Rostellan Castle,
+formerly the residence of the Lords of Thomond. ~Cloyne~ is only four
+miles' drive "on the long car" through a rich countryside, and on the
+way may be seen a Druidical cromlech, at Castlemartyr, in a very fair
+state of preservation. Cloyne Round Tower "points its long fingers to
+the sky" above the ancient church wherein there is a fine alabaster
+statue of the metaphysician, Dr. Berkeley, who was Bishop of Cloyne.
+~Ballycotton~ is seven miles from Cloyne. The cliffs here are high and
+wild, and Youghal, shining white in the sun in summer weather, can be
+easily seen at the mouth of the far-famed Blackwater. There are modern
+hotels and moderate lodgings at Ballycotton. In the season splendid
+deep-sea fishing can be had in the vicinity, and the opportunities of
+sea-bathing are enticing.
+
+[Illustration: Ballycotton Harbour]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Ballycotton.]
+
+     For information as to Sport to be had in the Cork District, see end
+     of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf, Fishing,
+     Shooting, Cycling, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The River Blackwater, Youghal, Etc.
+
+
+Edmund Spenser spent most of his time in Cork County, at Kilcoleman
+Castle in the vicinity of Buttevant. The place was well chosen as the
+house of a poet. The surrounding country is very beautiful, and every
+mountain and glen has its story.
+
+The town of ~Buttevant~ took its name from the battle-cry of the
+Barrymores--"Boutez-en-avant," "push forward." The ruins of the
+beautiful Abbey remain. At the time of the supervision of monasteries it
+was described as "a nest of abbots." Buttevant is the railway station
+for Doneraile, and hard by is Cahirmee, where the greatest horse fair in
+the British Isles is annually held. The fair lasts for two days. It is
+held about midsummer, and attracts buyers not only from all parts of
+these countries, but from as far away as Vienna and Stockholm. Spenser
+pays tribute to the beautiful Blackwater which flows through Mallow to
+Youghal--
+
+  "Swift Annsduff, which of the English is called Blackwater."
+
+Far away in the highland country between Cork and Kerry the stream
+rises, and comes floating and pushing down from the haunt of the
+fairies and the outlaw, through the wild country of Meelin. Here is a
+remarkable cave, the hiding place of Donald O'Keeffe, last of the old
+chiefs of the land of Duhallow, who was outlawed after the fall of the
+Jacobites.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ In the Woods at Buttevant.]
+
+The river flows through Newmarket, the birthplace of Curran, and
+Kanturk, the birthplace of Barry Yelverton, to ~Mallow~ which is the
+centre of the lines of railway radiating into Kerry, Fermoy, and
+Lismore, as well as to Cork city. The town is very beautifully situated.
+In the distance are the Kilworth mountains, which seem afar off to join
+the ample deer-park at Mallow Castle. It was once one of the liveliest
+and most fashionable resorts in Ireland, but its famous spas, to which
+gentlewomen and gallants came in the last century, are now unfrequented
+and almost forgotten. When abductions, duelling, and such pastimes were
+in vogue, "The Rakes of Mallow" were in their heyday. As Lysaght sang:--
+
+  "Beauing, belleing, dancing, drinking,
+  Breaking windows, damning, sinking,
+  Ever raking, never thinking,
+  Live the rakes of Mallow.
+
+  Spending faster than it comes,
+  Beating waiters, bailiffs, duns,
+  Bacchus' true-begotten sons,
+  Live the rakes of Mallow.
+
+  Living short, but merry lives.
+  Going where the devil drives:
+  Having sweethearts, but no wives,
+  Live the rakes of Mallow."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Mallow Castle.]
+
+~The Blackwater~ flows past Mallow through a rich country surrounded by
+soft-breasted hills and well-planted lawns, to Fermoy, a garrison town
+of importance, from which Mitchelstown, eleven miles away, may be
+reached by a light railway. The caves at Mitchelstown are described
+elsewhere (Waterford section). We will part the branch line here and
+return, _via_ Cork, to Youghal, the point from which to become familiar
+with the Blackwater at its best.
+
+~Youghal~, except in summer-time, when the visitors to its splendid
+strand enliven its appearance, is a sombre old place with an air of
+retired respectability. It is full of memories of other days, for here
+the Dane and the Christian came together; the Norman made it a walled
+town, and the Spaniards came into its harbour.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ View on the Blackwater Youghal.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Clock Tower, Youghal.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Sir Walter Raleigh's House at
+Youghal.]
+
+From here Sir Walter Raleigh, its Mayor, went forth to found
+Virginia--and to the scaffold. It was a chartered city, and grew in
+wealth and importance from 1183 to 1579, when it was sacked by Gerald,
+sixteenth Earl of Desmond, then out "upon his keeping." Ormonde drove
+the Geraldines out of the town, and hanged the then Mayor outside his
+own door for aiding them. He rebuilt its walls, and placed here a
+strong garrison. In 1641 it was again besieged, but held out for six
+weeks until relieved. In 1645, Castlehaven attacked it, but was repulsed
+by Broghill, fifth son of the Earl of Cork. Here, during the war with
+the Confederates, money was struck. On the execution of Charles I.,
+Ormonde proclaimed his son King, but the Puritans in the town revolted
+to Cromwell, who wintered here in 1649. In 1660, the Cavaliers and
+broken followers of the Geraldines captured the town, and ten days
+before his actual succession proclaimed Charles II. King. With varying
+fortunes of war, the town passed into the hands of the Jacobites and
+Williamites. The objects of interest, besides the picturesque
+attractions of the strand and beautiful bay, are very many. The Clock
+Tower remains where the old South Gate to the town stood. Tynte's Castle
+was built by Norman settlers in the fifteenth century. St. Mary's
+Cathedral is cruciform, consisting of nave, aisle, transepts, choir, and
+massive tower. In the chantry of Our Blessed Saviour, or south transept,
+besides the memorial to the founder and his countess, is the grotesque
+mausoleum, in florid, glaring Italian style, to the Earl of Cork and his
+family. At Boyle's feet is the kneeling figure of his first wife, Joan;
+at his head is that of his second, Catherine. Over the arch is his
+mother, Joan, and along the margin of the plinth are nine diminutive
+effigies--his children. The tower was evidently constructed rather as a
+defence than simply for a belfry. The churchyard, where there are many
+ancient gravestones, is the chief centre of local superstition, and here
+all local ghostly visitations are alleged to take place. ~Myrtle Grove~,
+whilom the residence of the ill-fated Elizabethan soldier, Raleigh, is
+an unpretentious, ancient gabled dwelling. The interior is remarkable
+for its beautiful oak wainscoting.
+
+During his sojourn in Munster, "Captain Sir Walter Raleigh" performed
+many deeds of dering-do, albeit some of them were far from being like
+Bayard's, without reproach. He was Mayor of Youghal, 1588-9; and, with
+Spenser, was granted the greater part of the forfeited estates of the
+Earl of Desmond. Raleigh's grant comprised property at Youghal and along
+the Blackwater to Affane, already mentioned. In the garden attached to
+Myrtle Grove he is supposed to have planted the potato, the first
+planted in Ireland.
+
+The strand at Youghal is very fine, and sea-bathers are afforded every
+opportunity of enjoying themselves. In summer time the watering-place is
+much patronized, and every year is becoming more attractive. There are
+good hotels, and plenty of residences and lodgings to accommodate
+visitors during the season. In the morning the whole fore-shore is given
+over to the bathers, and in the evenings it is mostly "Oh, listen to the
+band" along the Promenade and in the Green Park. The inroads of the sea
+at Claycastle are at length being successfully encountered by the Case
+groining system, which has been found so efficient elsewhere.
+
+The coast-line from Youghal to Cork is indented with splendid sea
+cliffs, fiords, and strands. Garryvoe lies between Youghal and
+Ballycotton. The sea for miles along this district has been eating into
+the clay cliffs, and threatens to fulfil a Gaelic prophecy that it will
+yet reach Killeagh, a town six miles inland. Near Killeagh is a very
+beautiful scene of sylvan splendour, Glenbower.
+
+The railway line runs direct from Youghal to Cork, passing the thriving
+market town of Midleton, the granary of Cork County, and Carrigtwohill,
+where there are the ruins of a Norman Castle.
+
+A ferry from Youghal brings the passenger into Waterford County. The
+road above Whiting Bay leads to the fishing village of ~Ardmore~. It was
+perhaps, the first place in Ireland where the light of Christianity
+shone, as St. Declan is generally agreed to have been a precursor of the
+National apostle. In the country districts surrounding, as in the
+fishing village itself, the language most in use is Gaelic. The round
+tower, said to be of later date than any other in Ireland, is unique in
+many respects. The Cathedral, with its exquisite chancel arch and
+elaborate exterior arcading, will delight the antiquary and architect.
+Other interesting objects are the Ogham stones in its chancel, and the
+narrow lintelled "Bed" of St. Declan.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Strancally Castle, Co.
+Waterford.]
+
+The service of steamers from Youghal to Cappoquin up the ~River
+Blackwater~ depends at present mainly on the state of the tide. But
+despite this and other things, the scenery on the river side will well
+repay inconvenience. Having left the ferry behind, the first place of
+interest is Rhincrew (The Bloody Point), and on the wooded hill the
+ruins of a preceptory of the Knights Templars still remain. Higher up on
+the western bank of the Glendine tributary stands Temple Michael, an
+old fortalice of the Geraldines, which Cromwell battered down for "dire
+insolence."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Blackwater River.]
+
+There is a legend which tells that the last of the Geraldines was buried
+at Ardmore, far from his young bride, who lost her life during the siege
+by the regicides. The story says, after his burial, at night his voice
+could be heard clearly, calling across the river, to bring him back and
+bury him by his own. For seven years the awe-struck peasants heard the
+plaintive voice calling, in the tender tongue of the Gael, "Garault,
+come to me,"--"Gerald, a ferry!" At last, some young men of his clan
+went to Ardmore and brought his dead body to Temple Michael, where his
+wife was buried, and henceforth his spirit no longer troubled the silent
+vigils of the fishermen at night.
+
+The bend in the waterway brings one into sight of rich pastures and fine
+demesnes. Ballintray, "The Town of the Strand" has in its vicinity
+Molana Abbey, where the warrior, Raymond Le Gros, lies buried. At the
+broads of Clashmore, the highest water-mark to which the inflowing tide
+comes, one can easily imagine themselves upon an inland lake. Beyond is
+Strancally Castle, beetling over the river, set firmly in a foundation
+of crags. The local tradition carriers will gladly point out "The
+Murdering Hole," a natural fissure in the rocks, and here they will tell
+you that the departed Desmonds destroyed their guests after robbing
+them! Above the confluence of the Bride with the Blackwater,
+Villierstown and Camphire villages are passed, then the Awbeg joins its
+little flood, and beyond the island Dromana Ford is reached. Near is
+Dromana Castle, where "the old Countess of Desmond" was born. In the
+table-book of Robert Sydney, second Earl of Leyicester, written when
+Ambassador at Paris, about 1640, there is the following reference to
+her:--
+
+     "The old Countess of Desmond was a marryed woman in Edward IV. time
+     of England, and lived till towards the end of Queen Elizabeth, so
+     as she must needes be neare one hundred and forty years old. She
+     had a new sett of teeth not long afore her death, and might have
+     lived much longer had she not mett with a kind of violent death,
+     for she would needes climbe a nut-tree to gather nuts, so falling
+     down she hurt her thigh, which brought a fever, and that fever
+     brought death. This my cousin, Walter Fitzwilliam, told me. This
+     old lady, Mr. Haniot told me, came to petition the Queen, and,
+     landing at Bristoll, she came on foot to London, being then so old
+     that her daughter was decrepit, and not able to come with her."
+
+Dromana House, on the eastern branch of the river, is situated on a
+beautiful height, which commands the reaches of the river from Cappoquin
+to Youghal. At more than one point on the river there were opportunities
+of seeing in the distance the cloisters of ~Mount Melleray~--"the little
+town of God," lonely above the mists and shadows of the hills. As we
+walk or drive, the hillside behind the river winds its way through
+cliffs and well-wooded lands in front, the mountains unfold themselves
+range behind range. No one who has ever visited Mount Melleray will
+forget it or the generous Brothers. The Trappists, expelled from France
+in 1830, first settled on the borders of Kerry, but subsequently
+colonised this barren hillside, and already they have transformed it
+into a fine farm, containing rich pastures and thriving plantations. The
+monastery may be visited by gentlemen visitors, and cannot fail to prove
+of extraordinary interest. There are two guest houses, one for gentlemen
+and the other for ladies. No charge is made for their bed or board, and
+all creeds, classes, and nationalities are received with a _caed mille
+failte_. Every week a sermon in Irish is preached to the mountaineers.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Mount Melleray--View from South.]
+
+Either from Melleray or Cappoquin, ~Lismore~ may be reached by car or
+train. It was the home of learning of old, and to-day, not only its
+beautiful position but historic Castle command attention. It is the
+birthplace of Boyle, the philosopher. Ptolemy is asserted very
+confidently by some authorities to have mentioned this place and its
+river. It is certain, however, that the place was long in existence in
+631, when St. Carthage, of Rahan, fled thither. Nothing could be
+prettier than the appearance of the town, and it is a comfortable,
+well-to-do place, monopolising the trade of a large countryside. St.
+Machuda's Cathedral will repay inspection. The Castle is the Irish seat
+of the Duke of Devonshire. It was an ancient fortress, dating back to
+the reign of King John. It stands in a pre-eminently commanding
+position, over the Blackwater, and was the scene of many a hard-fought
+fight, especially in the wars of the Commonwealth, when Castlehaven
+captured it from the Roundheads. A magnificent view of the surrounding
+country may be had from its higher-storied windows. The public are
+freely admitted. From one of the high windows, it is said, when James
+II. was asked to look, he accused the maker of the suggestion of
+desiring to throw him from the dizzy height.
+
+From the Railway Station at Lismore, the most interesting object in view
+is the new Roman Catholic Cathedral, dedicated to St. Carthage, the
+founder of the See, and believed to occupy the site of his cell. Thickly
+surrounded by beautiful lime trees, the warm red sandstones of the
+walling, with the limestone dressing of the windows and doorways, forms
+a brilliant picture. The interior is richly furnished, and altogether
+the church is well worthy of a visit.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ The Guest House, Mount Melleray.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Waterford and District.
+
+
+Waterford is the port of call for most of the shipping from the West and
+South of England and Wales. The projected system by which steamers will
+run direct from Fishguard to Rosslare Harbour, whatever effect it may
+have upon Waterford as a port, will bring it by many hours nearer to the
+English markets. It is only a question of a few years until this route
+will be at the disposal of tourists and travellers from across the
+Channel. Under the Amalgamation of Railways Act of 1900, Waterford has
+the additional advantage of becoming a terminus of the system. With it
+as centre, railway services are supplied to Cork County and Lismore, to
+Limerick _via_ Carrick-on-Suir and Clonmel, and to Kilkenny _via_
+Kilmacow and Thomastown.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ Waterford.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Waterford, from North Side of
+River.]
+
+"The Star of the Suir"--the City of ~Waterford~--derived its name from
+the Danish words, Vedr-fiord, given to it by its original founders, the
+hardy Norsemen. From whatever side we approach the old town, whether
+land or sea, the sight is equally delightful. From without, approaching
+by the broad waterway, the city stretches forth to meet us, with the
+quaint wooden bridge spanning the noble river, and the hills forming a
+zone behind. Surely the Danes had an eye for beauty, as for maritime
+advantage, in selecting this happy spot for their fortress. In the ninth
+century, when the ploughers of the sea seized on the mouth of the Suir,
+they fortified a little delta some twenty acres in size, having the
+present Quay as its long side. From this little triangle the town grew,
+and in the last century was one of the first seaport towns in Ireland.
+Here, in 1171, Strongbow landed, defeated the Danes and Irish, who had
+confederated to repel him, and sacked the town. It is a strange
+historical coincidence that the Feast of St. Bartholomew was the day on
+which Strongbow landed and countenanced the massacre of the inhabitants.
+Under Raymond Le Gros the carnage was carried out, and in St. Lawrence
+O'Toole's address to the Irish princes at peace with the invader, which
+has been versified by Sir Charles Gavan Duffy, it is referred to in the
+lines:--
+
+  "Tell me not of leagues and treaties,
+    Treaties sealed in faith as true
+  As Black Raymond's, on the bloody
+    Feast of St. Bartholomew."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ The Quays, Waterford.]
+
+King John landed here, and the town was walled in and fortified against
+the Irish, who hung like wolves around a fold in the outlying country.
+In the Revolution the town adhered to the King. It was the port most
+used by the Confederates, and here many of their proclamations were
+printed. It was the one place in Ireland which successfully resisted the
+all-conquering Cromwell, and hence received the name from the Cavaliers
+of _Urbs intacta_. An object of historic interest which has been
+restored within the present century is Reginald's Tower. It was built
+originally by Reginald the Dane, son of Sitrius, the great Danish King
+of Dublin and Fingal (The Fair Strangers), whom Brian Boru defeated at
+Clontarf. Here, it is said, DeClair married Eva, whose fair face induced
+him to join his forces to her father's fallen fortunes. Maclise, in his
+wonderful historical picture "Bartered Away,"[4] represents the nuptials
+as taking place on the battlefield, dyed with the blood of the
+vanquished Irish. There could not have been much love in the match after
+all. Strongbow was scarcely dead when his young widow wrote to Raymond
+Le Gros that "a great tooth had fallen out," which he understood to mean
+that the time had arrived for him to come and make her his own, which he
+did. The patron saints of the diocese of Waterford and Lismore are Saint
+Cartach and Saint Otteran, the latter being a Dane who embraced
+Christianity. The Cathedral (Episcopalian) occupies the site of the old
+Danish Cathedral, the existence of which, together with that of Christ
+Church in Dublin, bears testimony to the zeal with which the Danes
+embraced Christianity. The Quay is the most characteristic bit of
+Waterford. Across the bridge, from Mount Misery or Cromwell's Rock, two
+points of vantage, excellent views of the surroundings can be had. The
+Suir, shining silvery, steals in and out among the hills and by the old
+town into the sea. The most interesting of the ancient monuments in
+Waterford is what is commonly called the "French Church," which, more
+correctly, is entitled "The Holy Ghost Friary." Authorities agree in
+assigning the date of its foundation to 1240, but its history has never
+been written. After the Edict of Nantes, the fugitive Huguenots formed a
+little colony in Waterford. The Corporation granted a salary to their
+minister, and they were provided with a place of worship in the choir of
+the old church. All that remain of this once gorgeous pile of
+buildings are the ruins of the tower, Lady Chapel, chancel, and nave.
+The style is Early English, and the most attractive feature is the
+graceful three-lighted east window. The Catholic Cathedral is worth a
+visit. Within easy reach of the Quay is Ballybricken, the heart of the
+bacon industry, and the home of the best known body of pig-buyers in
+Ireland. These men are almost a community to themselves. They have their
+own traditions, and are more like an organisation which would have
+sprung up from a church guild centuries ago than in any way a modern
+trades union. Formerly Waterford was remarkable for the manufacture of
+beautiful cut glass, but the industry has died away. The housekeeper who
+possesses specimens of the art considers herself lucky indeed in her
+possession, as collectors are continually on the alert to procure them.
+In the immediate vicinity of Waterford itself there are many beauty
+spots and places of interest. In the suburb of Newtown stands the
+paternal home of Lord Roberts of Waterford and Candahar, besides whom on
+its roll of famous children Waterford includes the names of Charles
+Keane and Vincent Wallace. Portlaw, four and a half miles away, on the
+south bank of the Suir, was once the centre of a thriving cotton
+industry. Here an order may be had at the estate office to visit
+Curraghmore, the residence of the Marquis of Waterford. The magnificent
+demesne includes over four thousand acres, and Curraghmore is possessed
+of the best-blooded stud of hunters in Ireland.
+
+[Illustration: Imperial Hotel, Waterford.]
+
+[Illustration: Curraghmore.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ Tramore.]
+
+~Tramore~, seven miles away, is reached by train in fifteen minutes. It
+is one of the most popular watering places in the South of Ireland, and
+in the height of the season it is estimated that about four thousand
+visitors augment the normal population of two thousand. Many of the
+Waterford merchants live there, and their villas and the houses of the
+town, rising one street above another on the side of the hill, make a
+pretty picture when viewed from the strand. The hotels are numerous,
+the Grand Hotel can be recommended as being specially comfortable, while
+there are three or four other hotels where very good accommodation can
+be had. The lodging-house accommodation is equal to that to be obtained
+at any Irish seaside resort.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ Evening at Tramore.]
+
+In addition to capital sea and trout fishing, the visitor can enjoy the
+pleasures of golf and lawn-tennis, and during the summer months races
+are frequently held at the Tramore Flying Course, which is situated
+within view of the town. The views of this pleasantly situated holiday
+reunion will recall to many minds happy days spent by the Sounding Sea.
+
+The Rabbit Burrow, a little further on, is a mile in length, and helps
+to divide the Back Strand from the spacious bay. Just before reaching
+this Burrow, the visitor will see a tombstone erected to the memory of
+those who were lost in the "Sea Horse" transport, in January, 1816, when
+returning from the Peninsular Campaign. No less than 362 lost their
+lives in this terrible disaster. At the western side of Tramore there
+are many places along the rock-bound coast well worth a visit. Passing
+along in the Newtown direction we come in view of the Ladies' Cove;
+here, years ago, a fishing pier was built by the Board of Works. It was
+swept right away one stormy night over two decades ago, and has not been
+replaced since. Along the Cliff Road we catch views of Gun's Cove, and
+the Gillameen Cove, where excellent bathing facilities, free of charge,
+can be availed of by the visitor.
+
+On the western shore, twelve miles by road from Waterford, is the pretty
+watering place of ~Dunmore~. It is situated at the mouth of the river
+Suir in a valley gently sloping to the sea, and is protected from the
+north winds by a wood which, in the hot summer days, is a most
+delightful resort for visitors. There is also a public park and tennis
+ground, and the facilities for bathing, particularly for gentlemen,
+leave nothing to be desired.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ Dunmore.]
+
+In the early part of the last century the place was a mail packet
+station for the mails to and from England. The harbour was built by the
+Government at a cost of about L100,000, and is at present under the
+control of the Board of Works. Here, in the fishing season, are boats
+from all parts of the Kingdom fishing for herring and mackerel, and
+special steamers are constantly running to and from Milford with the
+harvest of the sea.
+
+There are some particularly good villas and houses which can be rented
+in the season, and there is a good hotel just over the harbour, while
+rooms are to be had on reasonable terms at many houses in the town. For
+persons who desire a select quiet place to spend a holiday in, it can be
+recommended strongly, while for those who are fond of sea-fishing or
+yachting no better place in Ireland can be had. Although there is no
+railway connection with Waterford cars run daily, the fare being only
+_1s._ for the twelve miles.
+
+Above the confluence of the Barrow and Suir, six and a half miles from
+the city, from the top of the hill over Cheekpoint (Side a fairy)--where
+"the river Rosse meets the river of Waterford"--a grand panorama
+presents itself. In the distance the mountains shoulder one another for
+prominence; the Comeraghs, the many peaked Galtees, and
+
+  "Sweet Slievenamon, the darling and pride,
+  With soft flowing bosom and brow like a bride."
+
+This beautiful mountain owes its name, "The Hill of the Women," to a
+Finnian legend, which tells that Finn M'Cool promised to make his wife
+of whichever of the fair women of Ireland could reach its summit first,
+when all were started from the foot. Grainne Oge, the Gaelic Helen, of
+course was heroine of the day, and Finn's taking her was the origin of
+one of the most enthralling of the Celtic romances.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Croker, Waterford._ Dunmore Harbour.]
+
+Among the more interesting objects at Dunbrody are St. Catherine's
+Church, an old time dependency of the Abbey, and the splendid remains
+of the Cistercian Monastery, rising above the meadows by which the
+Campile Stream flows. The monastic church in general style is Early
+English, and is fairly preserved. It dates from the twelfth century, and
+was founded by Henri de Montmorenzi, Marshal to Henry II.--the same who
+was killed at the Curragh.
+
+There is a severe simplicity about its lines which gives an impression
+of great dignity. The crenelated Tower springs from the nave and
+transept. The Abbots of Dunbrody sat as Lords in Parliament, and
+exercised civil jurisdiction. Above Dunbrody, on the river opposite "The
+Little Island," where was an ancient hermitage, in a straight line is
+Ballinakill House, where James II. spent his last night in Ireland, on
+the day before that celebrated in the ballad, which tells:--
+
+  "Righ Shemus he has gone to France,
+    And left his crown behind,
+  Ill luck be their's, both day and night,
+    Put running in his mind."
+
+~Passage East~ (seven miles), now a fishing village, with spider-legged
+spit light, was reduced by Cromwell in 1649. The old mole still stands.
+At Ballyhack, across the ferry, a strong, square castle is well
+preserved. "New Geneva," in the vicinity, was garrisoned with Hessians
+during the Rebellion of '98. It is mentioned in the well-known Irish
+song, "The Croppy Boy." The place received its name in 1786, when a
+colony of Genoese exiles were established there. On the Waterford coast,
+from the city to where the Blackwater kisses the sea, beside a range of
+noble cliffs, there are many points of interest. The Tower of Hook,
+standing one hundred feet high, on the promontory of the same name on
+the Wexford side, is attributed amongst others to Reginald the Dane,
+Ross MacRume, the founder of New Ross, and Florence de la Hague (1172).
+Its circular walls are of great thickness and strength. When Strongbow
+heard of this Tower of Hook, with Crook (Norse, Krok a nook) on the
+western side, he is alleged to have said "He would take Waterford by
+Hook or Crook," and thus originated a common saying which has come down
+to our own days. The Saltees, two islands off the Wexford coast, were
+the refuge to which Colclough and Bagnall Harvey hastened in vain after
+the suppression of the Rebellion in '98. Helvick Head, the name of which
+also betrays its Danish origin, marks the entrance to Dungarvan Bay. The
+line running from Waterford to Limerick Junction contains many places of
+interest, from which short tours may be made. As we come near to
+~Carrick-on-Suir~ the castle comes into view. The present building was
+mainly erected by the former Earl of Ormonde, "Black Tom," as he is
+known in history. He was one of the many Irish gallants who found favour
+in the eyes of Queen Elizabeth. From Carrick, a drive of eight miles
+brings us to Lough Coumshinawn, a lonely tarn lying high among the
+Comeragh mountains, on one side of which the cliff rises perpendicularly
+to a height of seven hundred feet. The railway from Carrick runs through
+the beautiful valley of the Suir to Kilsheelan, and then passes to the
+left of the Knockmealdown mountains to ~Clonmel~, the capital of the
+"premier county." The town is pleasantly placed in a thriving centre of
+local trade. It figured largely in the fights between Cromwellian and
+Confederate, and some of the old battlements still stand witness to its
+strength in bygone times. The peasantry have a tradition that a cloud
+will ever hang above the town since Father Sheehy's death in the last
+century. The tradition is hinted at in the beautiful emigrant ballad
+"Shameen Dhu," by Katherine Tynan:--
+
+  "Now, God watch over you, Shameen,
+    An' His blessed Mother Mary!
+  'Twas you that had the lightest heart
+    In all sweet Tipperary--
+
+  'Twas you could sing the blackbird's song,
+    In dry or rainy weather:
+  Avic, the long-road wasn't long
+    Whin we thravelled it together.
+
+  Sure, scores of times in the mornin' bright
+    You sung this very road,
+  You med the mare's heart bate so light
+    She never felt her load;
+  'Twas you could lilt wid the thrush's trill,
+    Ah, well, avic machree!
+  God grant you may be singin' still
+    In that lonely far counthrie!"
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Holy Cross Abbey at Thurles.]
+
+The name of Laurence Sterne, author of "Tristram Shandy," and of the
+gorgeous Countess of Blessington, are both associated with Clonmel as
+their birthplace. Through a mountain cut, appropriately called "The
+Wilderness," the railway line runs aside to Thurles. The little church
+of Rathronan, standing high on the hill, was the scene of the
+sensational Arbuthnot abduction in the last century. Those who wish for
+details of that unhappy love affair will find the story told in faithful
+words elsewhere. The demesne lands between Clonmel and Fethard are many.
+~Fethard~ was an old walled town, it defied the Cromwellians, and
+surrendered with all the honours of war. After treaty and terms were
+agreed on, the Roundheads found that what they had mistaken as gaping
+mouths of cannon on the fortress were nothing more dangerous than
+innocent churns placed in positions of pretence, not defence. The
+bogland from Fethard to Thurles is uninteresting; the intermediate
+stations are Farranalleen, Laffan's Bridge, and Horse and Jockey, at
+which collieries are still being worked. At Thurles we meet the main
+line of the Great Southern and Western. ~Thurles~, originally a Danish
+town and the scene of the battle between the Norsemen and Irish,
+afterwards became a fortalice of the Knights Templars. Here, by the
+bridge across the Suir, the remains of the old settlement are still to
+be seen. Four miles distant, standing by the banks of the river,
+surrounded by tall trees, are the remains of the once great Cistercian
+~Holy Cross Abbey~. It was built in 1168-69 to house the relic of the
+True Cross sent by the Pope to Brian Boru's grandson, Donald, King of
+Thomond. This interesting relic, after centuries of vicissitudes, is now
+enshrined at the Convent of the Ursulines, in Blackrock, Cork. On the
+feasts of the Finding of the True Cross (May 3rd), and of the Exaltation
+of the Holy Cross (September 14th), and on every Friday in Lent, it is
+presented for public veneration. Thurles is the seat of Episcopal
+residence of the Archdiocese of Cashel. On the main line higher than
+Thurles is Templemore, founded by the Knights Templars. Between Thurles
+and the Limerick Junction is Goold's Cross station, six miles from
+Cashel. The noblest evidence of the early civilization of Ireland is to
+be found in ~Cashel Of the Kings~. Generally the buildings date from the
+early twelfth century, the Round Tower being much earlier and the
+Cathedral later. Cormac's Chapel was consecrated in 1134, being built by
+the Saint King of Munster. It is rich Norman work, comprising nave,
+chancel, and towers at the transepts. The doorways and chancel arch are
+elaborate. The Round Tower is unique when compared with the other
+buildings, as it is of sandstone. It is connected with the transept of
+the Cathedral. The pointed windows, choir, transepts, and tower are very
+beautiful. In the burial-ground outside is the famous Cross of Cashel,
+with a sculptured effigy of St. Patrick. The whole group gathered
+together on the massive Rock of Cashel, whose firmness is a proverb in
+Ireland, presents an imposing array. This Cathedral was the one burnt by
+the Earl of Kildare in 1495, when his excuse was that he thought the
+Archbishop was within. Here, in 1647, a bloody tragedy fell out.
+Murragh-an-Theathaun, "Murrough of the Burnings," as the peasantry still
+call Lord Inchiquin, massacred a number of women and children, who
+sought sanctuary here when Cashel had fallen before his siege train. At
+the foot of the rock are the cruciform remains of the Abbey of the
+Cistercians. If, instead of diverging from Clonmel to Thurles, we
+continue to the Limerick Junction, we pass Cahir, a military station
+with an ancient Castle in excellent repair. From Cahir, tourists can
+drive to Cashel, to Ardfinane, or to ~Mitchelstown~ _via_ Clogheen. The
+Caves at Mitchelstown may be visited from Fermoy, Lismore, or Clogheen,
+and if the visitor is sojourning at any of these places he should find
+his way to these wonderful formations. Besides the caves, Mitchelstown
+contains Caherderinny Castle, Kilbehiny, and Mitchelstown Castle, the
+residence of the Kingston family. Leaving the village of Kilbehiny we
+cross to Skereenarinka, "the height for dancing," and follow a narrow
+hilly road on the Galtee side which leads to the caves, in the townland
+of Coolagarranroe. The different chambers of the larger caves, of which
+the Kingston gallery is most beautiful, have been named: "the House of
+Lords," "the House of Commons," "the Cross of the Four Roads," "the
+Scotchman's," "O'Leary's," and "O'Callaghan's" caves, "the Altar," "the
+Closet," "the Cellar," and "the Garret." The smaller objects of interest
+within have been called: "Lot's Wife," "Mary Queen of Scots," "the Bed
+of Honour," "the Cat and Kittens," "the Flitch of Bacon," &c. From
+Clogheen to Tipperary we cross the Suir, and follow the foot of the
+Galtees. The surrounding country is picturesque and contains some of the
+finest pasture land in Ireland, being part of what is known in Munster
+as the "Golden Vale." Four miles away by a beautiful road, through the
+rising-grounds, the Glen of Aherlow can be reached. The glen is richly
+wooded, and from Newbridge over the Aherlow river, Galteemore (3,015
+feet), the highest peak of the range may be reached. Tipperary town is a
+good market place, and is pleasantly situated beneath Slievenamon. The
+only relic of its former grandeur is that of the Augustinian Friary, a
+foundation of Henry the Third's reign.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Roche, Dublin._ Rock of Cashel.]
+
+     For information as to Sport to be had in the Waterford District,
+     see end of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf,
+     Fishing, Shooting, Cycling, &c.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Dungarvan.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Killarney and Glengarriff.
+
+
+Killarney.--From Limerick Junction to Mallow, where the branch line runs
+into Kerry, the tourist to Killarney runs by many places of interest.
+~Emly~, now a dwindled village, was once a diocesan city. During the
+wars of the Commonwealth, Terence Albertus O'Brien, Bishop of Emly, was
+executed in Limerick by Ireton. His stole and pectoral cross are still
+in the possession of representatives of the family to which he belonged
+at Mitchelstown.
+
+In the rich plain under the Ballyhoura hills, "the land flowing with
+milk," is the ancient town of ~Kilmallock~. It was the citadel of the
+Earls of Desmond when they held high their crests, and every stone in
+the place is historical.
+
+Two of its four gates still remain, and among the ruins, which have
+secured it the name of the "Baalbec of Ireland," are those of the old
+Dominican Priory and Abbey Church. In the former is the mutilated grave
+of the White Knight, a name still loathsome in the peasant's ear, and on
+whom the bards have let fall their choicest curses.
+
+Lough Gur is of interest to the antiquary. It is ten miles to the north,
+and was the centre of the Desmond country. Here of old, the Kings of
+Cashel kept their Grenan or "Sunny Place" for feasting. The cyclopean
+structure in the vicinity points to the place as being of importance in
+pre-historic times. From Charleville, a thriving town, runs a line of
+railway direct to Limerick. Buttevant and Mallow are particularly
+referred to elsewhere. Millstreet is the border town on the mearings of
+Cork and Kerry.
+
+Beyond the bogland country outside Millstreet is the village of Cullen,
+where tradition says no smith has been known to thrive. Saint Lateerin,
+a virgin of early Christian days, near here made her recluse, and every
+day she walked across the bog, and took "living fire" in her kirtle from
+the forge to her home. The smith once remarking the prettiness of her
+white feet, she momentarily forgot her vow of chastity, and the fire
+burnt through the homespun and blistered her feet. She went back to her
+cell, and prayed that no smith should ever thrive in Cullen, and none
+has ever tried to do so!
+
+~Rathmore~ is on the high road to Gneeveguillia mountain, and to the
+north of the station, and at Christmas time, 1896, occurred the fearful
+_debacle_ of the bog, which struck terror into the simple inhabitants,
+and, not unnaturally, was attributed by them to super-natural causes.
+Two hundred acres of Bogach-na-Mine formed a landslip and rolled in a
+huge mass southwards, sweeping away several little farmsteads and
+suffocating the inhabitants and cattle. At ~Headford~, the junction for
+Kenmare, the scenery is very wild, and all around
+
+  "Kerry is pushing her high headlands out
+  To give us the kindly greeting."
+
+At last, after about a four hours' run, if we came by the special
+tourist train from Dublin, we have completed our one hundred and
+eighty-six miles, and are in sight of
+
+KILLARNEY,
+
+the home of lakes, which has well been called "the Gem of the Western
+World": its magnificent mountain peaks, its green swards and gushing
+cascades, all surrounded with an atmosphere of romance and tradition.
+Outside the railway station, we are face to face with the finest hotel
+in the south of Ireland. Well placed, well managed, it combines all the
+comforts of a home with the convenience of a well-appointed hostelry. It
+is within easy reach of the principal points of interest.
+
+[Illustration: Boating at Killarney]
+
+[Illustration: Great Southern Hotel--Killarney.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Guy & Co., Cork._ Lakes of Killarney.]
+
+The grounds adjoin Lord Kenmare's beautiful demesne and Deer Park, which
+skirts the lake shores, and contain the splendid Golf Links.
+
+Killarney, or "the Church of the Sloetrees," lies on a flat plateau,
+within a mile from the shores of the far-famed Lough Lene, as the three
+lakes, popularly known as the Lakes of Killarney, are called in Irish.
+The town possesses an Episcopal Palace, a cathedral and churches of
+interest, besides a monastery and School of Arts and Crafts. Otherwise
+it deserves little attention; but on fair days, when the peasantry from
+the neighbouring parishes crowd in, it presents a lively and varying
+aspect. If the town is insignificant, not so its surroundings, for
+nowhere else in the wide world is there such a combination of charms and
+variety of beauty, in mountain and lake scenery, thrown together.
+
+  "For how could river, lake, and sea
+  In softer sister hues agree?
+  Or hills of passionate purple glow
+  Far and near more proudly flow?
+  And when will summer kiss awake
+  Lovelier flowers by lawn or brake?
+  Or brighter berries blush between
+  Foliage of a fresher green?"
+
+There is a story of a tourist who, lingering long in the Holy Land, was
+pained at the irreverent hurry of an American, who arrived there one
+afternoon, scurried over the sacred places, and prepared to depart
+betimes on the morrow. He timidly inquired of the swift-foot why he, who
+had come so far, rushed away so quickly. "Sir," said the American, "I am
+timed to do Europe in a fortnight. I have thrown in the Holy Land, but
+if I stay here longer than one night I cannot see Killarney, which takes
+three days." He was a wise man in his generation. Although enterprising
+people have attempted to do the tour of the Lakes in a day, they have
+always gone away more than satisfied with what they saw, but with hearts
+hungry to return at a future date, and behold the beauties they had
+left unseen.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ On the Upper Lake, Killarney.]
+
+The ~Lakes Of Killarney~ are three in number, connected by a
+swift-flowing stream, the Long Range, and emptying their waters through
+the river Laune into Castle Haven, on the Kerry coast. The entire
+journey can be performed by boat, but in the suggested tours given, both
+car, and boat, and ponies are pressed into our service.
+
+The divisions of the Lough Lene are:--The Upper Lake (extreme length,
+two-and-a-half miles; extreme breadth, half-a-mile); the Torc, or Middle
+Lake (extreme length, two miles; extreme breadth, seven-eighths of a
+mile); and the Lower Lake (extreme length, five and one-eighth miles;
+extreme breadth, three miles). The first glimpse caught of the lakes,
+lying like broad mirrors beneath the high mountains, is a vision of fair
+delight. Like tall clansmen, Mangerton, Carnthoul, and the gathering
+Cruacha dhu M'Gillicuddy--the black reeks of the McGillicuddy--muster
+around, as it were, to re-tell us
+
+      "The tale of the spell-stricken band,
+  All entranced, with their bridles and broad swords in hand,
+  Who await but the word to give Erin her own"--
+
+that old legend of the sleeping warriors garrisoned within the
+mountain's sides, which is met with in more than one Irish county. The
+Upper Lake is characterised by an untamed, peerless outline, and so near
+to the mountains does it lie, that the fissures in their rugged sides
+are almost countable, and the fingers of fancy almost touch the gorse on
+their slopes. Gliding over its waters, we readily see in them a
+land-locked sea. A ridge of the Glena mountains shuts it out from the
+north, the many-peaked reeks guard the passes to the west, and to the
+south stands up Derrycunnihy--"The Oak Wood of the Rabbits"--between
+which and Torc is the fair bend of a Glen Coumagloun. Between the lips
+of the Lakes and the feet of the hills there appears no distance
+
+  "Save just a trace of silver sand
+  Marks where the water meets the land."
+
+Muffling the boatmen's oars for a moment, we can realise that
+indescribable solemnity with which silent nature hushes everything. Even
+the countless streams that have lost their way across the highlands, in
+their hurry to join the Lakes, seem to cease from babbling. But
+following the sinuous Long Range when we reach the still water beneath
+the Eagle's Nest, Nadanullar, is the psychological moment to awaken the
+echoes that eternally haunt the frowning eyry. A bugle-call sounded here
+is taken up by the barricades of rock, and is repeated even ten times
+over. Small wonder that the fairy hosts are credited with passing it
+along their lines! The mountains take up their dying tones of sweet
+sounds, and answer it one to the other until the ear can no longer
+follow it through space. The ferns and rich foliage of the mountain side
+trail their long fingers in the water, and cluster and quicken among the
+crevices of the rocks. Recently the Laureate visited Ireland for the
+first time; hitherto this land of poetry had been to him but "the
+damnable country" of the politician. He came, he saw, but Killarney
+conquered; and he, like all others who have gazed upon its beauty,
+renders tribute where it rightly belongs. "Damnable" is not the
+adjective to apply to a heavenly land, of which he truly says:--
+
+"Such varied and vigorous vegetation I have seen no otherwhere; and when
+one has said that, one has gone far towards awarding the prize for
+natural beauty. But vegetation, at once robust and graceful, is but the
+fringe and decoration of that enchanting district. The tender grace of
+wood and water is set in a frame-work of hills--now stern, now ineffably
+gentle, now dimpling with smiles; now frowning and rugged with impending
+storm; now muffled and mysterious with mist, only to gaze out on you
+again with clear and candid sunshine. Here the trout leaps; there the
+eagle soars; and there beyond the wild deer dash through the arbutus
+coverts, through which they have come to the margin of the lake to
+drink, and, scared by your footstep or your oar, are away back to
+crosiered bracken or heather covered moorland. But the first, the final,
+the deepest and most enduring impression of Killarney is that of beauty
+unspeakably tender, which puts on at times a garb of grandeur and a look
+of awe, only in order to heighten by passing contrast the sense of soft
+insinuating loveliness. How the missel thrushes sing, as well they may!
+How the streams and runnels gurgle, and leap, and laugh! For the sound
+of journeying water is never out of your ears; the feeling of the moist,
+the fresh, the vernal, is never out of your heart. My companion agreed
+with me, that there is nothing in England or Scotland as beautiful as
+Killarney--meaning by Killarney its lakes, its streams, its hills, its
+vegetation; and if mountain, wood, and water--harmoniously
+blent--constitute the most perfect and adequate loveliness that nature
+presents, it surely must be owned that it has all the world over no
+superior."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Shooting the Rapids.]
+
+Leaving the ~Upper Lake~ behind, and bidding adieu to the green islands
+that stud its breast with arbutus and the cedars of Lebanon, the Old
+Weir Bridge meets the eye. 'Neath its arch the waters come down with
+foam and force, the oars are shipped, and we shoot straight through the
+eye of the rapid, thanks to the strong arm and sure nerve of the
+oarsmen. The beautiful reach here is the bosom "where the bright waters
+meet." Amid exquisite combination of colour, a Vallambrosa strewed with
+ferns, lichens, mosses, rich green hollies and arbutus with many
+coloured berries, we tread our way by a passage of beauty round Dinis
+Island into the ~Middle~ or ~Torc Lake~, sheltered by the broad breast
+of the mountain from which it takes its name. Like "Muckross," the
+"Pleasant Point of Wild Swine," the name Torc is called after the wild
+boars, which in former years went "gerasening" over its slopes. Rising
+abruptly, the mountain stands clear between Mangerton and Glena, the
+lower sides well wooded. ~Innis Dinish~, the island at the "beginning of
+the waters," is the port for boats. The Cottage may be visited. The
+Whirlpool, between the waters of the lake and river, has been called
+O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl. Drohid-na-Brickeen, "The Bridge of Little
+Trout," or Brickeen Bridge, and Doolah, where the disused marble
+quarries and copper mines are still pointed out, are within a short
+distance. At the estuary of the Devil's Stream, which flows through the
+ravines on the mountain side, is the Devil's Island--almost
+inaccessible--on which a few stunted trees manage to secure a precarious
+existence. Within the little bay of Dundag is Goose Island. The rocks
+and caves along the lake shores are shrouded with traditions of
+O'Donoghue, Chieftain of the Glens. A long cave is called "The Wine
+Cellar"; at the end is "O'Donoghue's Arm Chair"; his Butler, a solitary
+crag, is called "Jackybwee." The most interesting of the fissures made
+by the waters in the rock side are what the enterprising boatmen have
+agreed to call "Colleen Bawn Rock." By the beautiful Glena Bay, we enter
+the Lower Lake, which is the largest and most charming of the group. It
+sleeps beneath the guardian heights of the Toomies Hills, and a vision
+of more loveliness is nowhere to be found. Low-lying shores, to the east
+and north, are jungled with the fronds of the hill ferns.
+
+  "Oh, the Fern! the fresh hill Fern!
+  That girds our blue lakes from Lough Ine to Lough Erne;
+  That waves on the crags, like the plume of a King,
+  And bends like a nun, over clear well and spring;
+  The fairy's tall palm-tree, the heath birds fresh nest,
+  And the couch the red deer deems the sweetest and best;
+  With the free winds to fan it, and dew-drops to gem,
+  Oh, what can ye match with its beautiful stem!"
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Eagle's Nest Mountain,
+Killarney.]
+
+The highest mountain in Ireland, ~Carrantual~,[4] at one side lifts its
+lofty brow, "crowned with tiaras fashioned in the sky." On its summit an
+outlaw, known in Munster as the "Shon" or Hawk, after many sleepless
+nights, footsore and weary, slept here with a prayer, "Thank God, at
+last I am above all my enemies." The peasantry pronounce the name
+"Carntwohill," which translated means, the left-handed or inverted
+sickle. The expansiveness of the Lower Lake appears at first to minimise
+its beauty, when compared with its smaller companions. But the more its
+loveliness is explored, the greater the revelation of the harmony and
+luxuriance of the landscape. No less than thirty-five islands, like
+beauty spots of a fairy "drop scene," bedeck the silver sheen of its
+surface. The largest of these, ~Innisfallen~, almost midway between the
+eastern and western shores, is some thirty acres in extent, and is
+engirdled by leafy bowers of green trees. Shaggy sheep are couched in
+repose, or are busy with its verdant lawn. In the early morning, or
+tender gloaming which closes the Munster day, the holy place is
+
+  "Quiet as a nun,
+  Breathless with adoration."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ The Turnpike Cap of Dunloe.]
+
+Shafts of the dawning or waning sun, as the hour may be, illumine the
+fair pageant. The wavering outlines of the hills make the turret-tops
+to the dark green of the woods and the emerald of the meadows. The
+richest of colours from hill, tree, and rock accumulate on the surface
+of the Lake, burnished like silver. To-day the natural scenery is the
+same as of old, and few will wonder that here a saint found delights to
+prepare him in some degree for the pleasures stored in eternity. Of St.
+Finian Labra we know little beyond that he was a native of Ely
+O'Carroll, then a part of Munster, and was a disciple of St. Brendan.
+But his spirit loiters around Innisfallen, and the most casual of
+travellers will tread lightly on the ground hallowed by his footsteps.
+The monastic remains are many, but by the enthusiastic antiquary alone
+can their fragments and chief features be traced. "_The Annals of
+Innisfallen_," which form one of the chief sources of Irish history,
+were written here 600 years ago. Leaving the "Holy Island," we cross the
+lake and land at the foot of the Toomies Mountains, famous in
+pre-historic myths, to visit the O'Sullivan Cascade. The legend, which
+is too often wasted on sceptical ears, tells that O'Sullivan, a captain
+of his people, renowned amongst them for fleetness of foot and prowess
+as a hunter, on one occasion went to hunt the red deer. The faint yellow
+rays of morning were lighting up the eastern sky as he went forth. Gaily
+the deep-mouthed dogs obeyed, sniffing the fresh breeze across the
+mountain purpled with heather. Scarce had he left home when a
+magnificent stag bounded across his path. Swift as the lightning flash
+the dogs sprung upon the track--away across the moors and down the
+glens, on the scent they went. Throughout that livelong day O'Sullivan
+followed the chase, weary, tired, and thirsty, but still determined to
+make the prize his own. At length night, and darkness with it, came; the
+stag could be seen no more, the dogs, too, were at fault, and the scent
+was lost. Disappointed, and spent with the labour of the chase, the
+huntsman blew a shrill blast on his horn to call the dogs to him, and
+faced for home across the hills. But there was a voice that, loud and
+clear, called upon him--"O'Sullivan, O'Sullivan, turn back!" Brave and
+fearless, like his race, he turned round, to behold before him the
+centre of so many cycles of romance--Finn MacCool. "Why do you dare
+chase my stag?" asked Finn. "Because it was the finest that man ever
+saw," answered O'Sullivan. The answer pleased Finn MacCool.
+"O'Sullivan," said he, "you are a valiant man, and have been wasted in
+the long chase. You thirst, and I will give you to drink." So saying, he
+stamped his huge heel upon the hard rock, and forth burst the waters,
+seething and dashing as they do to this day. O'Sullivan quenched his
+thirst and sped on his way.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Meeting of the Waters,
+Killarney.]
+
+From the innermost recess of the glen the water flows down, in one of
+the most fascinating spots to be found within all the delicious realm of
+Kerry. The ivy hangs in dense draperies from the rocks, a sweet disorder
+of arbutus, evergreens, and all the flowers that grow in a radiant land,
+daringly lean across the canyon, and vainly try to trip the rushing
+stream, which, in cascade after cascade, flings itself with passionate
+energy, and a ceaseless murmur, over the rocks. The placidness of the
+huge lake is in strange contrast to the noisy stream which so excitedly
+hastens to meet it, and, as if awed by its dignity, as it comes nearer
+and nearer the mountain stream, sinks its voice, until in a subdued sigh
+it falls into the breast of the lake. Underneath the projecting rock,
+and overhung with luxuriant herbs, O'Sullivan's Grotto offers a quiet
+retreat. Following the wooded shores of Glena Bay, we pass Stags, Burnt,
+and other islands, and come to Glena Cottage, hiding in the foliage of
+leafy trees. Glena means "the valley of good fortune," and a name more
+suggestive of happier thoughts than weird Glownamorra across the
+lake--"the glen of the dead."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Muckross Abbey, Killarney.]
+
+A mile's drive through the pleasant demesne lands of Muckross brings us
+to the water's edge at Castlelough Bay, in the middle lake, on a
+promontry of which the ruins of ~Muckross Abbey~ are to be seen. Here,
+in the fifteenth century, Donald M'Carthy founded an Abbey for
+Franciscan friars. The quiet cloisters in the northwest transept, with
+their varying pointed and rounded arches, are unique. The recessed
+doorway by which we enter is very beautiful. The towers and east window
+are in fair preservation. The monuments within the ruined pile tell us
+that it
+
+    "contains
+  In death's embrace M'Carthy More's remains,"
+
+and also reminds us that
+
+  "If Erin's chiefs deserve a generous tear,
+  Heir of their worth, O'Donoghue lies here."
+
+In the centre of the cloisters there grows a great yew tree, spreading
+its many branches and shade over them, and above the side walls, forming
+a dark cowl, which overshadows the old house of the monks. In ancient
+Erin the yew tree was regarded as sacred, and in its shade the Druids
+performed their mystic rites. With the early Christians, as an
+evergreen, it was a symbol of Life Eternal.
+
+The peasants still inherit some of the awe with which the sacred tree
+was held in former days, and they are loth to hurt it with the loss of a
+single leaf. All impressive is the desolate majesty of Muckross,
+whatever time it is visited!
+
+  "But the gay beams of lightsome day
+  Gild but to flout the ruins grey."
+
+At night, when the pale ghost of the moon looks across the lake, when
+the mountains are shrouded in shadows, when the waters are lulling the
+slumbering land,
+
+  "And the owlet hoots o'er the dead man's grave,"
+
+the solemnity of the scene surpasses even that of fair Melrose, by the
+distant Tweed, of which Sir Walter Scott tells.
+
+Driving past the modern mansion in the demesne, along ~Torc Lake~, by
+the groves of Dinis, and through the arches of the Old Weir Bridge, the
+river glistens and sparkles in the sun, while the distant calmer water
+lies deep in sleepy shadows. Beyond the peculiar rock known as the
+White Deer we pass through the Tunnel cut under the huge slope of the
+mountains. Here is a point of view which fascinates all visitors, and
+from which an ample picture of the surroundings may be secured. A mile
+further we cross the Galway river, rushing down a well-worn channel
+through Cournaglown, the valley sides of which are covered with oak
+trees. Already the ceaseless chorus of Derrycunnihy Cascade fills our
+ears. With tumult and cries of havoc, the water springs from an altitude
+on the mountain side, dividing its force into many minor cataracts, as
+it forces the passage barricaded by rocks and boulders, to unite them
+again in a deep pool, and after a second's rest, it musters its full
+strength, and falls in a torrent towards the Middle Lake. Colman's Leap,
+across the stream beneath the Eagle's Nest, is shown here, and of it a
+legend similar to others in many parts of Ireland is told. A mile
+eastward, along the Kenmare road, we come to ~Torc Waterfall~, lovely as
+a capricious _colleen_, whose modes are all the more "deludering" for
+their uncertainty--Torc, whether tripping gently or rushing angrily, "to
+one thing constant never," makes its bed in a fairy realm, a leafy
+garden of ever-changing beauty. Larch and alder, arbutus, oak, and hazel
+thickly curtain the Fall from the passing glance. But a sylvan path
+o'erstrewn with leaves, and bordered with many fronded ferns, discovers
+the fountain in full bearing. White with foam, and angry for its long
+delay in the grip of Mangerton, and the hollow of the Devil's Punch
+Bowl, the flood breaks through the wall of rocks seventy feet high, and
+spits a shower of spray on every futile thing which attempts to stem its
+course or stay its purpose. The panorama spread out beneath the rocks of
+Torc comprehends, in all their glory of colour and contrast, the Middle
+and Lower Lakes beneath the mountains.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Torc Waterfall, Killarney.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Ross Castle, Killarney.]
+
+Two and a-half miles northwards by the King's Bridge, or about one mile
+direct from Killarney, within sight of the ~Lower Lake~ and the Purple
+Mountains, are the ruins of Aghadoe, the "Church of the two Yew Trees,"
+founded under the blessing of Saint Finian. The remains of the Round
+Tower and Abbot's Castle can still be seen, but these and the eighth
+century doorway of the old church are all that have weathered the wind
+of centuries. The summit of the old tower is a vantage point for a
+vista. Dr. Todhunter has written a beautiful ballad, in imitation of the
+passionate Irish laments, for an outlaw who was buried there.
+
+
+  AGHADOE.
+
+  There's a glade in Aghadoe, Aghadoe, Aghadoe,
+  There's a green and silent glade in Aghadoe,
+  Where we met, my love and I, love's fair planet in the sky,
+  O'er that sweet and silent glade in Aghadoe.
+
+  There's a glen in Aghadoe, Aghadoe, Aghadoe,
+  There's a deep and secret glen in Aghadoe,
+  Where I hid him from the eyes of the redcoats and their spies
+  That year the trouble came to Aghadoe.
+
+  Oh! my curse on one black heart in Aghadoe, Aghadoe;
+  On Shaun Dhuv, my mother's son, in Aghadoe!
+  When your throat fries in hell's drouth, salt the flame be in your mouth,
+  For the treachery you did in Aghadoe!
+
+  For they tracked me to that glen in Aghadoe, Aghadoe,
+  When the price was on his head in Aghadoe;
+  O'er the mountain, through the wood, as I stole to him with food,
+  Where in hiding lone he lay in Aghadoe.
+
+  But they never took him living in Aghadoe, Aghadoe;
+  With the bullets in his heart in Aghadoe,
+  There he lay, the head--my breast keeps the warmth where once
+      'twould rest--
+  Gone, to win the traitor's gold, from Aghadoe!
+
+  Oh! to creep into that cairn in Aghadoe, Aghadoe,
+  There to rest upon his breast in Aghadoe!
+  Sure your dog for you could die with no truer heart than I,
+  Your own love, cold on your cairn in Aghadoe.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ The Gap of Dunloe.]
+
+The nearest boat place for Innisfallen is at ~Ross Castle~. We approach
+it from the high road across the moat, where once the drawbridge was let
+up and down. The old keep, wearing a cotamore of ivy, still guards the
+water's edge. By a spiral stone staircase we reach the battlements and
+look out across the lake.
+
+The Castle held out for Charles the First, but was dismantled by Ludlow.
+It was originally a fort of "The O'Donoghue," the chief who centres in
+the many traditions which the boatmen weave around every object of
+interest in Killarney. He lies enchanted beneath the lake, with a city
+full of his people. But at times he has come across the water on his
+fiery steed, or danced to the Rincead-fadda on the shores. Whoever sees
+him is fortunate, because he gives "good luck, which is better than
+money," to all whose eyes meet his.
+
+The ~Gap of Dunloe~ is a gloomy mountain pass cut through the rough
+rocky slope in the hills between the Toomies and the Macgillicuddy's
+Reeks. It is a magnificent defile, four miles long. The rough
+bridle-path running through it, at times almost on the edge of
+precipices, beneath which the wild goats flock. It is approached by a
+winding road, embroidered on one side by a shady little grove of fir,
+larch, stunted oaks, and mountain ash. Through the little windows
+between the trees, when the sun shines, the reflection of the river Loe
+is caught, as it creeps humbly on its way to the lakes. On the other
+side, the mountains throw up a huge wall. Bidding good-bye to the little
+grove, vegetation seems to fear to enter the desolate, sterile places in
+the throat of the Gap. Where the river widens, at Cushvalley Lough, the
+industrious echo-makers most usually greet the visitor. One has scarcely
+recovered from the warmth of their courteous welcome, when some
+suggestive volunteer, aborigine to the place, with a "Mr. Bugler, God
+spare you your wind," secures their services; although you do not call
+the tune, you are expected to pay the musicians. But the trifle spent
+on the gunpowder for their cannons, or the breath from their lungs, is
+well repaid by the mighty mass of air they start into waves of music.
+Here, too, the "auxiliary forces," or pony boys, besiege us with their
+sure-footed, shaggy "coppaleens." They have come galloping down the pass
+at break-neck speed to lend us the assistance of their light cavalry.
+Wonderful creatures they are, these horses and riders. The peasant boys
+are for all the world the modern prototypes of those "rake-helly horse
+boys" of Queen Elizabeth's reign, who filled so many pages of the State
+papers. Sinew and muscle knit their loose limbs together, and, in their
+eyes, mild and calm as those of the quiet cattle in the field, but like
+the surface of their native lakes, covering unfathomed depths, they
+conceal souls swept by deep thoughts, and minds clouded by many
+memories. The long unrenewed, but still to be distinguished, Spanish
+strain is shown in many of their olive-tinted faces and dark features.
+But guides safe, and true, and courteous are they, who know every perch
+of the dark Pass, where at times the craggy cliffs shut out the canopy
+of the sky, and attempt to precipitate themselves across the track. The
+point where the path is narrowest, the peasants have called the "Pike."
+From it onward the mountains begin to recede, and the Pass is more open
+until, crossing a shoulder of the ~Purple Mountain~ past the three great
+expansions of the Commeen Thomeen Lakes, into which St. Patrick is said
+to have driven the last serpent, we suddenly come on a surprising
+spectacle of magnificent scenery. Here, from the head of the Gap, we see
+the Upper Lake spread beneath, to the west, Coomeenduff, or the Black
+Valley, dark as the valley of the shadow of death, in charming contrast
+with the stern grandeur of the mountains. Their melancholy seems to
+reign supreme; the long valley is steeped with shadows in which several
+lakes are set, the light upon which only heightens the sublime darkness
+of the surroundings. The longest of these lakes is called Lough
+Nabricderg, or the "Pool of the Red Trout." Far and wide beneath us lies
+what, in the old times, was MacCarthy More's country, and into which so
+often the Fiery Cross was sped, when the chief of the great clan went
+into action.
+
+Ruskin's ideals of mountains as the great cathedrals of the earth, with
+their gates of rock, pavements of cloud, choirs of stream and stone,
+altars of snow, and vaults of purple, traversed by the continual stars,
+can nowhere be realized more readily than in Killarney. Here the
+mysterious summits, warm with the morning tints or evening's glow, will
+delight and refresh again and again, and reflect to us imperishable
+memories. Crossing the Flesk, if ~Mangerton~ be the desired point, seven
+good miles are to be traversed. From the Muckross, a short detour will,
+if desired, lead to Flesk Castle, standing on a finely wooded hill above
+the wide sweeping river. Eastward, along the Kenmare road, and southward
+for a mile, the mountain path is met. From here, either on foot or on a
+pony, the ascent of Mangerton may be made. The first important object
+that comes in view is Lough Kittane, at the eastern base of the
+mountain. It is nearly five miles in circumference, and its waters
+contain four islands. The ravine behind the lake, with Mangerton on the
+west and Crohane mountain on the east, is the "mustering place of the
+winds," Coomnageeha. In this ravine the Blackwater flows. There are two
+small lakes, Loughnabraude and "the Lake of Beech-crowned Rock," Lough
+Carrigaveha. Away in the bed of the mountains is Keimva Lochlin--the
+pass of the Danes--reminding the historian of "Stern Lochlin's sons of
+roving war," and Dereenanawlar, or "the little oakwood of eagles."
+Moving still higher, eastward the mountains melt into the distant
+counties of Cork and Limerick, and beneath, the smaller highlands recall
+the Psalmist's description of
+
+  "The hills like the lambs of the flock."
+
+[Illustration: McCarthy More's Castle--Lake Hotel Landing Stage.]
+
+To the left, Glown-a-Coppal, the "Horse's Glen," invites the adventurous
+to fathom its depths. The dark lakes lying in its shadows are shoreless,
+but for the gloomy rocks which overhang the water's edge. Where the
+ground becomes more broken and rugged, suddenly a less inaccessible path
+arises, and leads to the Devil's Punch Bowl, a dark tarn, beset with
+strange echoes that strike a death-song on the heart-strings of the
+superstitious. The view from the summit is very wonderful; in the
+foreground of the huge picture, the forest of mountain tops, while
+westward in the distance is the fabled and saint-blessed Mare
+Brendanicum of the old writers, where the fiords embroider the coast
+line.
+
+Descents from Mangerton may be made due south from the eastern angle
+along the Oubeg to Kilgarvan, five miles east from Kenmare; by the
+"Horse's Glen," from Lough Garagary, across the moor to the commencement
+of the bridle-path. Neither way is recommended in the afternoon or
+without a guide. The best route to Carntuol is from the entrance to the
+Gap of Dunloe. There is a beaten track by the side of the waterway of
+the mountain stream, called "Giddagh," the bed of which is filled with
+glacial moraines, leading into a romantic valley, the Hag's Glen, which
+is shut in by the Reeks and Knocknabinaneen. The dark tarn in the Glen,
+as well as every object of prominence, has been seized upon by the
+imaginative peasants, and associated in some wise with the witch who
+here had her local habitation and left it its name. The track across the
+heather leads to the junction of two rivulets from Lough Gonvogh on the
+right, and Lough Callee on the left. The beginning of the summit is
+reached by the rough moraine pavement, and with a little perseverance
+the "parkeen," or "little pasture," on top is reached. Here on the
+wind-swept height it is interesting to find the _London Pride_, or _St.
+Patrick's Cabbage_, and the common _Thrift_ flourishing The view is
+indescribable. Like the jaws of some huge monster, the teeth of the
+Reeks close in everywhere, each with its own blue lake behind. Of
+Killarney we see little; but seawards "everything between this end of
+the world and America," descent may be made, either following the flank
+of the hill, and half way between the two largest lakes beneath,
+striking for the Gap of Dunloe road, or through Coomduff to the shores
+of the Upper Lake.
+
+When the tourist's time is limited, the following excursions, extending
+over three days, will enable him to see a good many of the points of
+interest:--
+
+     TOUR NO. 1. FARE, _8s._ ESTATE TOLLS, _1s._
+
+     Well-appointed coaches, or other conveyances, leave the Hotel
+     (weather permitting) at about 9.30 a.m., for a visit to the
+     celebrated Gap of Dunloe and the grand tour of the Lakes. The route
+     lies along the northern side of the Lower Lake for about six miles,
+     when the exquisite mountain scenery comes in full view, rapidly
+     assuming more interesting features until "Arbutus" Cottage is
+     reached. Here the party must alight, and proceed on ponies, or on
+     foot, at discretion, through the Pass to Lord Brandon's Cottage, at
+     the head of the Upper Lake, where the boats will be in readiness.
+     Arrangements can be made with the Manager of the Hotel, before
+     starting, to provide ponies for _3s._ each to this point. Some
+     wonderful echoes are produced in various parts of the Pass.
+     Luncheon will be served, before entering the boat, on one of the
+     adjoining islands, after which the party will proceed by the Upper
+     Lake and Long Range to the Eagle's Nest Mountain. The boat will
+     then shoot the Rapids under the rustic Old Weir Bridge; stop a
+     short time at the "Meeting of the Waters"; pass through the Middle
+     Lake, and across the Lower Lake to "Sweet Innisfallen Island," to
+     enable the party to view the ruins of the old Abbey, Abbot's Grave,
+     and Bed of Honour; thence to Ross Castle, where the party will
+     resume their drive to the Hotel, which is usually reached about
+     5.30 p.m.
+
+     TOUR NO. 2. FARE, _4s. 6d._ ESTATE TOLLS, _2s._
+
+     The conveyances leave the Hotel about 10 a.m. for the drive through
+     Mr. H. A. Herbert's beautiful demesne. The ancient ruins of
+     Muckross Abbey are soon reached, and, after a short delay to
+     inspect them, the party proceed by the shore of the Middle Lake,
+     over Brickeen Bridge, pass the Colleen Bawn Rocks for Dinis
+     Island; thence, passing the Torc Mountain, to the Cottage and
+     Waterfall of Derrycunihy (Queen's Cottage), the property of the
+     Earl of Kenmare, where luncheon is usually served. Returning, the
+     party will pass under the tunnel on the Kenmare Road, and through
+     fine scenery by road, mountain, and lake to Torc Cascade, where, by
+     an easy footpath, fine views can be obtained of the Waterfall and
+     Lakes; thence to the Hotel, which is usually reached about 3 p.m.
+
+     TOUR No. 3. FARE, _4s. 6d._ ESTATE TOLLS, _1s._
+
+     The conveyances leave the Hotel at about 9.30 a.m., passing through
+     the Earl of Kenmare's Deer Park to the Heights of Aghadoe,
+     obtaining grand views of the Lower Lake, Macgillicuddy's Reeks, and
+     Carran Tual (the highest mountain in Ireland), as also the ruins of
+     the round tower of Aghadoe Church, thence through the Earl of
+     Kenmare's beautiful West and Home Parks, which skirt the
+     north-eastern shores of the Lower Lake, round Ross Island, and to
+     the Hotel, which is usually reached about 2.30 p.m.
+
+
+KENMARE AND GLENGARRIFF.
+
+The coach drive from Killarney to Kenmare is over a fine broad mountain
+road, and from Mulgrove Barrack, about half way, a splendid view of the
+lake country can be obtained. Kenmare, as its name signifies in Irish,
+is at the head of the sea or beautiful bay to which it gives its name on
+the Roughty river. Sir William Pettie, in the seventeenth century,
+founded the town on lands confiscated from the O'Sullivan More. It is a
+market place of importance, and the Convent of the Poor Clares is famous
+the world over for the beautiful lace made here. The town stands on the
+highway between Killarney and Glengarriff, known as "The Prince of
+Wales' route." The coach drives through the town past the Lansdowne
+Arms' Hotel and into the beautiful spot which has been selected for the
+new hotel belonging to the Southern Hotels Company. Already young groves
+and plantations teem about the mansion, which is built on a natural
+terrace overlooking the bay, and facing the high hills of Glenaroughty,
+behind which the Red River rises, and the bare mountain slopes of
+Mucksna.
+
+No visitor should fail, if time permits, to visit the Convent of the
+Poor Clares, and see the lace-makers at work. From Kenmare the train or
+coach may be taken to Killarney.
+
+
+DRIVING EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF KENMARE.
+
+     No. 1.--Car to Goulane on old road to Killarney, walk to summit of
+     mountain, from which a magnificent view is obtained, returning by
+     Inchamore Cross Roads, Roughty Falls, and Suspension Bridge. _6s._
+
+     No. 2.--Car to Kilgarvan, thence to the Bird Mountain, on the
+     Borlin Road, returning by Lounihan and Letter. Grand panoramic
+     views of the Mangerton Mountains and Roughty Valley. _10s._
+
+     No. 3.--Car to Windy Gap on the Killarney Road, view of Gap of
+     Dunloe and M'Gillicuddy Reeks, thence by Dirreenfeenlahid Lake and
+     Bouchill Mountain, returning by Slieveaduff and Templemore Road.
+     _10s._
+
+     No. 4.--Car to Blackwater Bridge and Waterfall, thence by Old
+     Dromore and Valley of the Blackwater, returning by old road over
+     Coomnakilla; magnificent sea and mountain scenery. _12s._
+
+     No. 5.--Car to Clonee Lakes and Glen of Inchiquin, thence to
+     cascade at head of glen; beautiful drive along the southern shore
+     of Kenmare Bay, affording splendid views of mountain, lake, and
+     river. _15s._
+
+     No. 6.--Car to Derreen by the Lansdowne Road, along the shore of
+     Kenmare Bay and Kilmackillogue Harbour, thence to Glanmore Lake by
+     road skirting Lord Lansdowne's demesne, returning by Furniss
+     (ancient smelting works) and Carriganine Road. _20s._
+
+     It is particularly requested that visitors requiring cars will give
+     not less than an hour's notice at the office.
+
+
+SOUTHERN HOTEL, KENMARE.
+
+HIRE FOR FIXED DISTANCES (Driver's fee included)
+
+                              Two-horse carriage.   One-horse car.
+
+From Kenmare to Parknasilla,           _20s._            _10s._
+
+ "     "        Killarney,             _28s._            _14s._
+
+ "     "        Glengarriff,           _28s._            _14s._
+
+ "     "        Caragh Lake,            --               _25s._
+
+ "     "        Waterville,            _50s._             _2s._
+
+Fifty per cent. additional for return journey.
+
+To Glengarriff the coach runs by very beautiful scenery, terminating in
+the lovely creek of the bay at ~Eccles' Hotel~ and by the fair height
+where ~Roche's Hotel~ commands the view. From Glengarriff the coach may
+be continued to Bantry, and the train then taken direct to Cork, along
+the East Bandon line; or the road may be taken through the beautiful
+Pass of Keimaneigh--the "Pass of the Deer"--and by the lovely lake of
+Gougane Barra to Macroom. Here the Cork and Macroom Railway brings the
+tourist back into the City of the Lee.
+
+The road from Kenmare leads high out of the valley up the hill sides. We
+command a good view of Kenmare Sound, and having passed under a number
+of tunnels through the rock we cross the mearings into county Cork.
+
+
+GLENGARRIFF
+
+[Illustration: At Glengarriff.]
+
+[Illustration: Otter Island, Glengarriff.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Glengarriff.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Glengarriff.]
+
+[Illustration: Glengarriff Harbour]
+
+[Illustration: Otter Rock Glengarriff]
+
+[Illustration: Gougane Barra. Co Cork]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Gougane Barra.]
+
+In a fair spot above the blue waters of the Bay of Bantry,
+~Glengarriff~, as a health resort, vies with its charming young rival,
+Parknasilla. Its climate, too, is softened by the nearness of the Gulf
+Stream, and yew and arbutus, as well as tropical cryptogamia and Alpine
+plants, overgrow every available spot along the sides of the rough
+defile. It is come-at-able from Cork by train to Bantry and then coach,
+or by coach from Killarney or Kenmare. Apart from the beauty of the
+situation and the mildness of its climate, Glengarriff possesses
+splendid facilities for sea bathing and boating. There is excellent
+hotel accommodation both at Eccles', on the shore of the bay, and at
+Roche's, in the midst of beautiful grounds, through which the Owvane, or
+"fair river," flows, making on its way a wild cascade. The drive from
+Glengarriff to Gougane Barra, through the Pass of Keimaneigh, "the path
+of the deer," is one of the great excursions to be made. ~Gougane
+Barra~, the shrine of Saint Finbarr, is in the midst of a lonely lake
+near the source of the Lee. It is still the scene of "patrons" on Saint
+Finbarr's day, and Mass is celebrated in the open air in the middle of
+the lake. There is good trout fishing in the Allua and other streams in
+the Desmond Valley. Callaghan, the poet, has sung of it--
+
+  "There is a green island in lone Gougane Barra,
+  Where Allua of songs rushes forth as an arrow;
+  In deep-valleyed Desmond--a thousand wild fountains
+  Come down to that lake, from their home in the mountains;
+  There grows the wild ash, and a time-stricken willow
+  Looks chidingly down on the mirth of the billow;
+  As, like some gay child, that sad monitor scorning,
+  It lightly laughs back to the laugh of the morning.
+
+  And its zone of dark hills--oh! to see them all bright'ning;
+  When the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning;
+  And the waters rush down, mid the thunders deep rattle,
+  Like clans from their hills at the voice of the battle;
+  And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming,
+  And wildly from Mullagh the eagles are screaming."...
+
+The "green island" is a little over half an acre in extent. In its
+centre is a quadrangle, with walls at parts fourteen feet thick, in
+which are eight cells or cloisters rudely arched over. Within, on a
+raised platform, is a large cross with five steps ascending to it. There
+is a large flagstone here with an inscription, giving directions how
+"the rounds" are to be performed on the vigil and forenoon of the feast
+days of St. Finbarr and St. John the Baptist, to whom there is a
+special cultos all over Munster. The road from Gougane runs through
+Inchigeela and Ballingeary by a wild stretch of river inches, called the
+Gearagh, to Macroom, where the old Castle and Convent are worth
+visiting. In the latter the kindergarten system has been introduced with
+great success. It is also here that the Gaelic Feis or Festival is held
+for the locality, which contains a large percentage of Irish-speaking
+people, including numbers of children. From Macroom train runs direct to
+Cork. In the visitors' book at Inchigeela Hotel some vagabond rhymester
+penned the following farewell:--
+
+  Sweet Inchigeela, fare thee well, to-morrow we depart
+  On Mrs. Brophy's outside car, for Gougane B. we start;
+  I add my mite of doggerel to all I have read here,
+  And put my X to all that's writ of this hotel's good cheer.
+
+  O charming Inchigeela, were mine the poet's pen,
+  How I would do the Longfellow, in praising rock and glen;
+  Among thy mountains, hills, and lakes, six happy days we passed,
+  And sigh to think the day draws near that's doomed to be the last.
+
+  We've climbed the rocky mountains, we've plodded o'er the plain,
+  We've bid a wild defiance to the drizzling, drenching rain;
+  And yielding to the influence of your coquettish weather,
+  We've grilled beneath the sunshine on thy "tick" infected heather.
+
+  O lovely Inchigeela! O cosy Lake Hotel!
+  O Hannah! best of waiting-maids, and civilest as well;
+  O were I not so sleepy, a great deal more I'd say,
+  But I must grasp my pilgrim's staff and wend my onward way.
+
+From ~Cromwell's Bridge~, at Glengarriff, the road runs to Berehaven,
+where there is an old Castle of the O'Sullivan's and some splendid
+caves. Cromwell's Bridge, of which one arch only now remains intact, is
+said to have been built here to facilitate the march of the Protector on
+his return from Dunboy Castle, he having threatened, if the bridge was
+not erected on his return, he would hang a man for every hour he was
+delayed. ~Bantry~, or the White Strand, is a thriving town, a pleasant
+drive from Glengarriff. Here the French fleet, with Wolfe Tone on board,
+purported landing in the winter of 1797; but, like the Armada, were
+scattered by a hurricane. Bantry House, the residence of the
+White-Hedges family, is beautifully situated on the side of the bay.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cromwell's Bridge,
+Glengarriff.]
+
+The Cork and Bandon Railway from Bantry is connected with most of the
+towns on the Cork coast. From Skibberreen, the famous fishing village of
+~Baltimore~ may be visited. The Piscatorial School is doing good work,
+and is an enduring monument to the philanthropy of the Baroness
+Burdett-Coutts. Innisherin Island, in Baltimore Harbour, was an old
+fortress of the O'Driscolls--and in particular of "Finnen O'Driscoll,
+the Rover"--of whom it is told:--
+
+  "The men of Clan-London brought over
+    Their strong ships to make him a slave;
+  He met them by Mizen's wild headlands,
+    And the sharks gnaw their bones 'neath the wave."
+
+Baltimore was sacked in the early seventeenth century by Algerine
+pirates, and all the able-bodied inhabitants sold into slavery. These
+pirates were finally put down by the intrepidity of the Commonwealth
+seamen. Kinsale, also on the coast, is a remarkable old town; there
+James II. landed on his ill-fated visit to Ireland. Bandon, beautifully
+situated on the broad river of that name, was long the Derry of the
+South. The memory of these "good old times" only now remains, and Bandon
+is the centre of many successful industries.
+
+    For information as to Sport to be had in the Killarney District,
+    see end of this volume, where particulars are given as to Cycling,
+    Fishing, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Coaching in Kerry]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Lakes and Fiords of Kerry.
+
+
+The Grand Atlantic Tour--Caragh, Cahirciveen, Valencia, Waterville,
+Parknasilla, Kenmare, &c.
+
+The beauty of Killarney is not without a rival, and that even "next
+door" to it in its very own kingdom of Kerry. Leaving behind the
+soft-swelling hills, deep-eyed lakes and dark mountains, we speed
+southward and westward to other lakes and mountains kindred to what we
+have already seen. It is for these lovely lands that the Gulf Stream
+crosses the Atlantic to kiss, that we are making over the wide-armed
+railway which clasps the most picturesque scenery in the country within
+its embrace. Starting from Killarney for Valencia, we leave the train to
+continue its journey northwards to Tralee, at Farranfore Junction. While
+changing into the carriages for the south-west coast, where
+
+  "The mountains kiss high heaven,
+  And the waves clasp one another,"
+
+one look round reveals the amphitheatre of hills. Westward, whither we
+are going, the hills above Glenbeigh point our road to where the
+Atlantic meets the shore. To the eastward, where the morn, in russet
+mantle clad, walks o'er the dew, the line of far-piercing spears,
+Mangerton, Torc, Glena, Toomies, and the Reeks extend. At Killorglin
+(twenty-four miles rail), with a wide-spanning viaduct, we cross the
+Laune, wending its way from the Lakes to Dingle Bay. Here the ruins of
+an old Knights Templar Castle remain to remind us of the historic past.
+For five-and-twenty miles from this place onward, the route runs over
+the southern shore-line of Dingle Bay. Some five miles from Killorglin,
+in a secluded nest of old trees beneath the mountains, lies ~Caragh
+Lake~.
+
+  "Long, long ago, beyond the space
+  Of twice ten hundred years;
+  In Erin old there lived a race
+  Taller than Roman spears."
+
+[Illustration: Fishing in Caragh River]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Caragh River and Lake.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake.]
+
+And in their romances and love-songs, Caragh was tenderly mentioned, for
+was it not here that Dermot sheltered Grania in the bowers of the
+quicken-trees? All who have read the fine old Finnian romance, "The
+Pursuit of Diarmuid and Grainne," which tells the iliad of their flight
+across ancient Erin, will remember that here on the shores of Kerry he
+met his enemies and discomfited them. In the mists westward from the
+lake is the hill-summit, Seefin, where the disconsolate son of MacCool
+sat. For long this little paradise has remained forgotten by
+scenery-seeking men, but now that it is re-discovered, it will enthral
+all comers. The lake, sheltered under the cloak of the hills, is six
+miles long, and all around its coasts are things of beauty, green velvet
+mosses, dark broom and heather-clad hills, with rowan trees interspersed
+throughout. The grisly mountains are glistening with silver
+threads--small streams that hasten to see themselves reflected in the
+lake. Far from the busy haunts of men, in a sleepy hollow only five
+minutes' walk from the railway station, the ~Southern Hotel~ Company
+has secured a delightful site for their fine hotel. If nature has done
+great things for Caragh, "filthy lucre," too, has done much, and here is
+everything to help the invalid, the sportsman, or "the common or garden"
+tourist to take advantage of the charming pleasure and health resort.
+For the fisherman there are almost endless opportunities. There is
+excellent salmon and trout fishing in the Caragh Lake, and also in the
+Caragh, Carahbeg, Ougarriv, and Meelagh Rivers, while within easy reach
+are Lakes Acoose, Cloon, Coomlonkir, Oulagh, Loughnakirkna, Corravoula,
+and Nabrackdarrig, all of which would gladden the heart of old Izaac
+Walton. Over twenty-five thousand acres of the best shooting in Kerry is
+reserved for the use of guests. It comprises principally grouse,
+woodcock, snipe, duck, wild goose, and plover. Both banks of the Caragh
+River, which is carefully preserved, have also been secured. ~Dooks~, in
+the vicinity, has been selected for an excellent nine-hole golf course,
+of which guests, as honorary members, are entitled to take advantage. A
+flag-station on the railway brings the links within easy walking
+distance. The grand strand along the shore gives every opportunity of
+bathing. Across the beautiful Dingle Bay rises Mount Brandon (3,127
+feet), and Dunmore Head, out at the edge of the ocean, has the Blasket
+Islands scattered around its coast, the treacherous rocks of which were
+so fatal to the Spanish Armada. By car from the hotel to Blackstones
+Bridge, returning by boat through the lake, is a short tour of many
+attractions. Beneath, at one side, lie the bright waters of the bay; on
+the other the dark waters of the lake. The Killorglin road is reached
+about a mile from Acoose Lake, and then following the declivity by a
+mountain stream, we get a good view of Gort-na-gloran Mountain, on the
+east of the lake, and see in the distance the fishing hamlet of Glencar,
+with the Glencar Hotel high up on pasture ground, surrounded by a cordon
+of green fir trees. Except in the Swiss valleys and parts of Norway,
+there is no scenery in Europe to compare with an inland route from
+Caragh to Parknasilla. It lies across the mountains
+
+  "Where the wandering water gushes
+    In the hills above Glencar;
+  In pools among the rushes,
+    That scarce could bathe a star,"
+
+through wild scenery between the gorges of the mountains, and into
+Ballaghbeama Pass. Beneath, in a winding valley, lies Lough Brin,
+turning from which we come into the valley of the Eskdhu, or Blackwater,
+and follow it amid the beeches until it falls into the sea.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Pass of Ballaghbeama.]
+
+Leaving Caragh Lake, the railway line follows the flow of the river, the
+next station being ~Glenbeigh~, where there is a growing watering-place.
+The strand is particularly fine, extending over two miles. There is a
+good hotel, with golf links, beside plenty of fishing and boating.
+~Coomasaharn~--the wonderful lake in the vicinity--it has been correctly
+said is surrounded by precipices more awful than anything to be found
+nearer home than the Alps or Pyrenees--clinging to the mountain side, at
+a height of several hundred feet above the sea, with here a cutting or
+embankment, and there a mountain gorge, in which a lovely waterfall is
+almost lost to sight in a labyrinth of foliage.
+
+~Mountain Stage~ and ~Kells~ are passed, and the train glides down an
+incline to Cahirciveen and Valentia Harbour. ~Cahirciveen~, the
+birthplace of Daniel O'Connell, is the most westerly town in the three
+kingdoms. It lies with its back up against the Iveragh Mountains, and
+facing the blue waters of Dingle Bay. Only since the road was cut across
+the hills to Valentia in later years has it come to be of importance. In
+1803 there were only fifteen houses here, and the beginning of its
+uprise in the world was when O'Connell got it made a market town. But in
+legends of the past it is a place of fame, and received its name from
+Sive, one of the beautiful daughters of the great monarch, Owen More.
+~Carhan House~, where the Liberator spent his childhood (but was not
+actually born, as alleged), the ruins of which now only remain, may be
+seen a short distance outside the town.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ On the Coast near Glenbeigh.]
+
+Two charming fishing harbours under Knocktubber Mountain are worth
+seeing, Councroum, "the Haven's Bend," and Coonana, which is called
+after the woman who bore the great Finn. Here, the mighty fighter of the
+old days, "Conn of the Hundred Battles," fought no less than thirteen of
+his fields, and three pre-historic forts remain to bear testimony to the
+past--Cahir-na-cahal, Cahirgal, and Castlequinn.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Glenbeigh.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lake Coomasaharn.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cahirciveen.]
+
+Ballycarbery's ruined castle, too, deserves attention. In ancient times
+it was the fortress of Carbery O'Shea, whose tide-swept tomb is still to
+be seen. Then it passed into the hands of Owen More's descendants, and
+from them to the O'Connells. When the Spaniards sent their "ale" over to
+Erin, and the Kerry women borrowed one another's cloaks to go to Spain
+to sell eggs and dulisc, Ballycarbery, commanding the harbour's mouth,
+was a place frequented by mariners and merchantmen from many a Spanish
+port. There is a story of Morgan of the Wine and a Spanish Captain worth
+re-telling. Two O'Connells lived in Ballycarbery together, one brother,
+Shawn, occupying the lower portion, and the other, Morgan, living in the
+upper apartments. Both at the same moment invited a Spanish captain, who
+had come into the port, to dine with them. The foreigner, embarrassed by
+their hospitality, and not wishing to show an undue preference--as
+neither brother would give way--agreed to give his company to whichever
+gentleman had his repast cooked first. The brothers repaired with speed
+to the castle, and Morgan was chagrined when he had mounted to his
+rooms, to find that Shawn had barricaded the entrance behind him, to
+prevent his servants from drawing water to cook the dinner. But he
+was not to be foiled, for, broaching a cask of wine, he cooked in it
+what he wanted, and as his dinner was first prepared, the Spaniard and
+his brother Shawn were his guests! In the wars of the Commonwealth the
+castle was reduced. ~Derriana Lake~, in the bed of the mountains--with
+wisps of mist on its further shores--is like a dream picture. The fair
+isle floating in its centre is freighted down with oak and arbutus trees
+standing out in relief against the mountain, and reflected in the
+mirror-faced waters. The coloured setting of the surroundings is
+exquisite. The cliffs bristle crest high with rigid firs, the young oak
+copse is entangled with an undergrowth of guelder rose, and in the
+sedges near the heron-frequented reeds, white water lilies open their
+wonderful eyes. Close by, ~Cloonaghlin Lake~, when it is dark with
+mountain shadows and frowning clouds, is sufficiently desolate to awe
+the least susceptible, but when auspiciously the sky is brightened, we
+feel--
+
+  "Truly the light is sweet, and
+  A pleasant thing it is for the
+  Eyes to behold the sun."
+
+The shadows recede into the depths of the water or the hollows of the
+hills, the many colours of the trees show themselves; and song-birds
+begin anew their music, as though a great hawk had been near, and had
+passed them by scathless.
+
+
+VALENCIA ISLAND
+
+May truly be termed the "Next parish to America," and should be visited
+for its noble cliffs, wild headlands, and wonderful jungle of fuschia
+trees. From Valencia Harbour a ferry, manned for upwards of a century by
+the O'Neills, brings passengers and mails across to Knightstown, the
+principal village, and a busy port of industry during the fishing
+season. Glenleam, the Knight of Kerry's residence--about one mile
+inland--is surrounded by beautiful gardens, where, besides arbutus and
+myrtle, many tropical exotics thrive. The fuschias form a thick glade,
+and the trunks of several of them almost defy the ordinary axe or saw.
+There are on the island, besides holy wells, a number of soutterains and
+cairns, that
+
+  "Sit upon the ground
+  To tell sad stories of the death of kings."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Valencia.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photos, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Valencia Harbour. Fishing
+Fleet. Entrance to Valencia Harbour.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cliffs at Valencia.]
+
+Irish is freely spoken on the island, and if properly introduced, the
+visitor may be able to hear many old stories of Finn and his companions,
+the Gabawn Saior, and other heroes of the peasants' heart. Thick as
+mists at morn legends hover about the island, and beyond the great Slate
+quarries may be seen many caves of great interest. There is a tradition
+on the island that St. Vincent Ferrar landed there. The harbour offers a
+deep and sheltered anchorage, and was formerly much frequented by
+smugglers, whose cave is still shown. Paul Jones often put in here, and
+on one occasion pressed into his service a number of fishermen, whom he
+took from the neighbouring fishing grounds. None of them returned except
+one, who had long been imprisoned in France, but he came home "with a
+stocking full of doubloons," and his children's children are still known
+as "The Paul Jones's."
+
+At ~Brayhead~,
+
+  "Where the broad ocean leans against the land,"
+
+there is a splendid view from nearly eight hundred feet above the sea.
+The rocks around the coast, encircled with white foam, make a beautiful
+contrast to the grey and emerald and gold of the sandy coves and green
+hills.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cliffs at Valencia.]
+
+Dolus and Bolus Heads reach far into the ocean. The ~Skelligs~, "the
+most western of Christ's fortresses in the ancient world," raise their
+heads to the south, while northwards the Great Blasket, a mountainous
+island, and its eleven brothers, with Innisvic Killane, may be seen. On
+the 10th September, 1588, the Armada ship, _Our Lady of the Rosary_, of
+1,000 tons, was wrecked in the Blasket Sound; among the many who
+perished was the Prince of Askule, natural son to King Philip of Spain.
+Around the coast line there have been many wrecks, and not a few are the
+pathetic stories still told of them on the island.
+
+The last wreck of importance gave another opportunity for the intrepid
+islanders to show what stern stuff they were made of. Under the
+captaincy of Mr. Alexander O'Driscoll, the volunteers put off to the
+wreck, and despite of a sea running high, and the buffeting of a great
+storm, saved the lives of the crew, and rendered full salvage. While on
+the island, a visit should be paid to the Anglo-American Cable Company's
+Station, care being taken beforehand to go through the formality of
+applying to the Managing Director (26, Old Bond-street, London, E.C.)
+for an order. Every facility is extended by the courteous local
+officials.
+
+
+THE SKELLIGS--ST. MICHAEL'S ROCK.
+
+From Valencia, or from across the channel at Portmagee, where there is a
+thriving fish-curing industry, the Skelligs can be reached in favourable
+weather. Standing high above the green billows that encircle them with
+collars of white foam, they repay every trouble taken to inspect them.
+The ~Little Skellig~, a fantastic rock, with a great arch like a flying
+buttress under which for centuries the seas have churned deep, is almost
+inaccessible. It is a great breeding ground for gannet, with which,
+during the breeding season, its sides are white as the waves below.
+
+[Illustration: GE Skellig.]
+
+So unused are these magnificent birds to being disturbed by intruders
+that even when within oar's length of them, they remain passive and
+unscared. The ~Great Skellig~ swings high its cliffs seven hundred feet
+above the water. Clinging to the ridge of its impressive rocks "like
+swallows' nests" are the round roofs of the beehive cells which of old
+formed a citadel of Christianity. To Saint Michael the Archangel,
+guardian against all the powers of darkness, the isle is dedicated. Its
+history is of old date, for here Milesius buried the beloved son, Ir,
+that the thieving waters robbed of his soul. Here "the slanting,
+full-sailing ships" of Daire, on their way to the great battle of Ventry
+Harbour, paused in their march along the deep. Here, too, in recording
+times, was the great hero-king of the Norse, Olaf Iryggveson, baptized.
+
+A little cove, deep in the recess of a cavern, makes a landing stage,
+only to be attempted at favourable times. An easy path leads halfway
+round the island; then, mounting a flight of steps, the visitor beholds,
+spread before him, a green valley, the one patch of richness on the
+desolate rock. This is Christ's Saddle, from which, with reverent
+hearts, the "Way of the Cross" may be traversed, ending in the heart of
+Skellig-Michael. Each of the fourteen Stations have descriptive Gaelic
+names, such as "The Stone of Pain," where our Saviour falls the first
+time; "The Rock of the Woman's Piercing Caoine," where His Mother and
+the Holy Women have met. Lonely and deserted, none should enter these
+hallowed places but with feelings of reverence.
+
+
+WATERVILLE.
+
+The morning stillness, broken by the clear blast of the postillion's
+horn, reminds the visitor lingering lovingly over the shores at
+Cahirciveen that the coach for the coast tour is ready. With a crack of
+the whip that would do credit to Will Goldfinch, in the coaching days
+of old, the driver urges on his team, and the blooded four-in-hand cut
+their way clear of the town. The tour along the Atlantic between
+Cahirciveen and Kenmare is nearly fifty miles, and passes through the
+most diversified country. The eleven miles as far as Waterville is first
+inland, passing through dreary stretches of moorland, where the small
+black Kerry cattle manage to thrive, until Ballinskelligs Bay suddenly
+comes in sight. Bolus Head reaches out its great arm into the sea, to
+shelter the Bay from the winds. At one side may be seen the little town
+of Ballinskelligs, with its white Cable Station; and in at the head of
+the waters, beyond where the Inny river joins the sea, Waterville
+spreads itself out around the long shore. Here it lies on the little
+streak of land which protects Lough Currane from the embrace of the
+ocean. Coming down the hill, out of the town, the delusion is that this
+great fresh-water lake is but itself a bay, the mouth of which is
+concealed from view, but not so, for its waters run clear and fresh, and
+as fishful as the Erne. It is the best free fishing lake in Ireland.
+Just outside Waterville the Commercial Cable Company (Mackay-Bennett
+system) have their extensive offices.
+
+[Illustration: _Photos, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Gannets on Little Skelligs.]
+
+[Illustration: Southern Hotel, Waterville.]
+
+The road leads across the Inny, and we enter the little town by the
+pleasantly-situated Butler Arms Hotel. On going further, fronting the
+shore line, we pass the Bay View Hotel, and, following a bend in the
+hill, come suddenly in view of the beautiful Lough Currane, beside
+which, in the midst of plantations, more like a home than a
+well-equipped hostelry, which it is, the ~Southern Hotel~ is built.
+Lough Currane is eight miles in circumference, and its shores are
+fretted with thousands of inlets. Through the windows of the Hotel, a
+charming view is had of the mountains which encircle the lake. On one
+side green slopes and pleasantly wooded heights meet the eye, and on the
+other, old familiar grey-faced mountains, with their heads raised on
+high among the clouds, shining, changing, and fading in the silver
+mists. The surface of the lake, calm-faced and deep-welled, here and
+there lifts up to be admired beautiful islands. Here a saint made his
+temporal home, and in Church Island is the beehive cell where St. Finian
+prayed, "in whose orisons were all our sins remembered." The ruins of
+the sixth century church deserve the attention of the antiquary. Away at
+the head of Lough Currane is Coppal, where sea trout and small brown
+trout abound. It, too, has charms all its own, in parts wild and
+untamed, but again, calm as the race of a sleeping child. Full
+information as to the flies suitable for the lake, and the places well
+to troll, may be had from the best known angler in Kerry, Teigue
+M'Carthy. Like Sir Roger de Coverley's friend, Will Wimble, he can tie
+a fly "to a miracle," and he is an enthusiastic devotee of the "gentle
+art." Besides the attractions for fishermen, there are thousands of
+acres of shooting in the vicinity. There is plenty of opportunity and
+accommodation for bathing by the bay, and a new Golf Links, laid out
+under the best professional advice, affords a further source of
+healthful amusement. Over the hills from Waterville the pre-historic
+remains of Staigue Fort may be visited. It is the best example of
+cyclopean stone forts that remains in Ireland, and by authoritative
+antiquaries is said to be at least 2,000 years old.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Lake Currane.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Raheen, Lake Currane.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Arbutus Rock, Lake Currane.]
+
+
+EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF WATERVILLE.
+
+TOUR 1.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m. for a
+drive to Derrynane, the historic home of the Liberator, On reaching
+Coomakista Pass--the highest point of the road--a gradual descent brings
+the party to Derrynane House, and further on to Derrynane Hotel, close
+to the remains of the old Abbey. Those who wish to walk can get off the
+car at Coomakista, and walk one and-a-half miles to Lord Dunraven's
+cottage, where they can meet the cars. The path winds along the shore of
+Derrynane Bay, and well repays those who follow it on their way to the
+Abbey, The party can lunch at Derrynane Hotel, and may return by the
+path, and meet the car at Coomakista, or drive the whole way back to
+Waterville. Fare for four persons, _12s._
+
+TOUR 2.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m., and
+drive along the northern shore of Lough Currane. Crossing the Coomeragh
+by the Ivy Bridge, the road leads us as far as Isknamaclery Lake. At
+this point a unique view is obtained of Isknamaclery Lake and Lough
+Nabrackderrag on the right, and Loughs Namona and Cloonaghlin on the
+left. The party can have the option of proceeding on foot to Derriana
+Lake, or returning and driving along the Coomeragh to Derriana Lodge,
+and from thence returning to Waterville, or they can cross the Dromad
+Hills, and return by the river Inny. Fare for four persons, _12s._
+
+TOUR 3.--The conveyance leaves the Hotel at 11 a.m. for Saint
+Finan's Glen. Before entering the Glen, a fine view is obtained of the
+Iveragh Mountains, and even the M'Gillicuddy Reeks, and later, the Lemon
+Rock and the Skelligs. After luncheon in the Glen, the party will return
+by Bolus Head, visiting the old Abbey of Saint Michael's and
+Ballinskellias Castle, and (with the permission of the Superintendent)
+the Atlantic Cable Station. For sea and mountain combined this view
+cannot be surpassed. Fare for four persons, _16s._
+
+TOUR No. 4.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at about 11
+a.m., for the remarkable fort of Staigue-an-or. The route lies along the
+southern shore of Lough Currane for about six miles, (passing the
+Waterfall) as far as Isknagahenny (Coppal) Lake, and good views are
+obtained of both lakes. At Isknagahenny Lake the party alights, and
+proceeds on foot for about four miles to the fort. When the highest
+point of the ascent is reached, a magnificent view is obtained of
+Kenmare river and the islands off the coast of Beara Peninsula. The
+descent to the foot is easy. After luncheon the party may return either
+by West Cove and Derrynane to Waterville, or again ascend the mountain
+and return by Lake Road. Fare for four persons, _16s._
+
+Shorter excursions can be arranged.
+
+
+HIRE OF BOATS
+
+Boat and one man, _1s._ per hour, _5s._ per day. Boat and two men, _2s._
+per hour, _10s._ per day.
+
+In no case will the charge be for less than two hours.
+
+POSTING ARRANGEMENTS.
+
+Hire by Time (Driver's Fee included).
+
+                                   Two-horse carriage.  One-horse car.
+
+
+For the first hour,                    _7s. 0d._            _3s. 6d._
+
+For two hours,                         _14s. 0d._            _7s. 0d._
+
+For each additional hour or
+   fraction of an hour                  _3s. 6d._            _2s. 0d._
+
+Hire for Fixed Distances (Driver's Fee included).
+
+Two-horse            One-horse  car.
+carriage.
+
+Waterville to Caragh Lake,                  --         _25s. 0d._
+
+    "      "  Caherciveen,               _15s. 0d._     _8s. 0d._
+
+    "      "  Valentia,                  _15s. 0d._     _8s. 0d._
+
+    "      "  Portmagee,                 _18s. 0d._    _10s. 0d._
+
+    "      "  Derrynane,                 _15s. 0d._     _8s. 0d._
+
+    "      "  Parknasilla,               _30s. 0d._    _16s. 0d._
+
+Fifty per cent. additional for return journey.
+
+[Illustration: Coomakisteen Hill.]
+
+The coach road from Waterville, following the outskirts of
+Ballinskelligs Bay, insinuates itself up a dizzy height. Looking
+backwards, Waterville, "standing with reluctant feet" between the sea
+and the lake, seems to wonder which is more bewitching. Forging ahead
+through the mountain gaps, we pass under ~Coomakiska~, 1,500 feet, and
+~Beenarourke~, 1,000 feet above the sea level. Clearing the gates of the
+mountains, we come into the open highlands above ~Derrynane~, watching
+out from its post over the sea. Truly the home for a chief. Here
+O'Connell spent his happiest days, within the roar of the Atlantic
+billows, but far from the turmoil and stress of the great agitation in
+which his figure looms large as a giant form. Here his hospitable door
+flew open wide to the passing stranger, and across the hills, with the
+fleet-footed hound, he enjoyed the most delightful of sports, coursing!
+Several interesting relics of the Liberator are shown at the house of
+his descendant, the present proprietor. The ruins of ~Derrynane Abbey~,
+in the vicinity of O'Connell's home, stand on a small peninsula, at some
+seasons transformed into an island by the divorcing rush of the high
+tides. It was a foundation of the monks of St. Finbarr, called
+Aghermore, such a place as that described in the life of St. Brendan,
+who, first of the old-world mariners, discovered the great Land of the
+West.
+
+  I grew to manhood by the western wave,
+    Among the mighty mountains on the shore;
+  My bed, the rock within some natural cave,
+    My food, whate'er the sea or seasons bore.
+
+  And there I saw the mighty sea expand,
+    Like Time's unmeasured and unfathomed waves;
+  One with its tide-marks on the ridgy strand,
+    The other with its line of weedy graves.
+
+  And, as beyond the outstretched waves of Time,
+    The eye of Faith a brighter land may meet;
+  So did I dream of some more sunny clime,
+    Beyond the waste of waters at my feet.
+
+From Cahirdaniel village, the site of a Danish fort, the route extends
+directly along the Kenmare Fiord, under the foot of Crohan Mountain. The
+Slieve Misk and Cahar Mountains separate themselves out to win our
+admiration the better. They recall Lady Dufferin's words, addressed
+to other sweet mountains, where
+
+      "The sunlight sleeping
+    On your green banks is a picture rare,
+  You crowd around me like young girls peeping,
+    And puzzling me to say which is most fair;
+  As though you'd see your own sweet faces
+    Reflected in that smooth and silver sea
+  O! my blessing on those lovely places,
+    Though no one cares how dear they are to me."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Sneem.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Sneem.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Sneem.]
+
+On the road beneath Crohan, a mile north from Coad Church is St.
+Kiernan's Cell, eaten into the face of the sheer rock. In this district
+formerly the mines were worked and copper smelted. As the road winds
+along we can see Staigue-an-or, with its cyclopean mounds, lying low and
+dwarfed on the hillside. By the high mountains, where the coach-horn
+sounds sweet and awakens echoes, the road comes down into the lowlands,
+and from the bridge is seen beautiful landscape, with ~Sneem~ spread out
+in the foreground. Under lovely beechen boughs, and through a glade of
+oak and first we are ushered into
+
+
+PARKNASILLA,
+
+An ideal residence, hidden from the summer sun by a variegated veil of
+the rocky garden foliage; sheltered from the winter's blast by the
+Askeve Mountains and the kind shores that button themselves around its
+inlet sea, of which Mr. A. P. Graves has written:
+
+  "Ocean before, the summer sky above
+    Who could pourtray the mountains' purple smiles--
+  And all the opal hues of earth and heaven,
+    Foam fringing forests, heather-tufted Isles;
+  The roseate dawn--purpureal pomps of even--
+    And young Atlantic's petulant, shifting wiles?
+  Who could do aught but mar the true expression
+    Where all is change? Then why a record shape
+  Of scenes whose nature glories in succession
+    From wood to wave--from wave to distant cape--
+  Like the young poet's dream, fair beyond all possession."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Parknasilla.]
+
+Here in the demesne lands of a Bishop's Old Palace, the ~Southern Hotel~
+new palace has been built. The green turf of its lawn extends down to
+the water's edge. It is a land of arbutus and myrtle, of glades laden
+with the pink and white blossoms of oleander and rhododendron, and thick
+with bells of fuschias, the fair daffodils of Shakespeare and Herrick,
+that fade away too soon:
+
+  "Daffodils that come
+  Before the swallow dares, and take
+  The winds of March with beauty."
+
+Derreen, away in the lap of the landscape, found favour of Froude, and
+at Kilmackilloge he found material for his novel. The beautiful
+~Garinish~ Island is like a little paradise, lost in a land where all is
+lovely. Around the shores, and in the sandy caves, the beautiful seals
+cluster, and at times are so tame as to answer the shrill whistle of the
+boatman, and show their lovely forms on the water's surface near at
+hand. We live in sceptical times, when
+
+  "The powder, the beauty, and the majesty,
+  That had their haunts in dale, or piney mountain,
+  Or forests by slow stream, or pebbly spring,
+  Or chasms and watery depths--all these have vanished.
+  They live no longer in the faith of reason."
+
+But still here, along the old-world shores, where daylight dies, the
+superstitions and traditions of the pagan past still linger among them,
+and there is none more interesting than that which teaches the fishermen
+to regard these beautiful-eyed, plaintive-voiced creatures with
+tenderness. The souls of the dead, drowned at sea, who die out of
+friendship with God, go into the bodies of the seals, and there through
+the ages await the Trump of the Archangel to call them before the Great
+White Throne.
+
+[Illustration: Southern Hotel, Parknasilla.]
+
+"Parknasilla is situated on the northern shore of Kenmare Bay, a bay
+rich in beauty, and with singularly-indented coast lines. Its
+well-sheltered position amidst a number of islets, thickly wooded down
+to the water's edge, has endowed it with unique advantages. This
+protective area gives to Parknasilla claims of a special character, and
+prevents the access to it of all winds except those coming from the
+warmer points, viz., south and south-west; these winds, before reaching
+the southern coast of Ireland, having travelled over the Gulf Stream,
+and being thus subjected to its moderating and balmy influence. We all
+recognise what elevation of the land will do for any place, particularly
+if it shelters that place from winds blowing from the cold quarters.
+Thus, mountain protection is of supreme importance in the choice of a
+health resort, more especially in the winter and spring seasons of the
+year. In this regard Parknasilla is exceptionally favoured, a
+mountainous range closely guarding and protecting it from the northerly
+and easterly winds. The combination of mountain, wood, and water gives a
+special charm to this locality; and a convincing evidence of the
+mildness of the winter and early spring here is the forward character of
+the vegetation, the early budding of the trees, shrubs, and flowers--all
+bearing testimony to the mildness of the climate. Temperature rapidly
+tells its tale on the vegetable world, and there can be no more
+reassuring proof of the equable and balmy character of the climate of a
+district than the early growth of flowering shrubs, plants, and table
+produce. The position of this favoured and sheltered sea inlet upon the
+isothermal map shows it to have a mean annual temperature of 52 degrees,
+being similar in this regard to its neighbour, Glengarriff, and
+registering a higher mean annual temperature than Ventnor or Torquay.
+The mildness of the climate in the earlier spring months is of such a
+character that exercise can be freely partaken of in the open air daily,
+without risk of chill; and this to the invalid is of paramount
+importance. No record has, as yet, been regularly taken of the daily
+sunshine, or of the rainfall, but so far as could be ascertained, the
+rainfall does not appear to be excessive. To sufferers from chronic or
+recurrent affections of the respiratory organs, Parknasilla, in the
+winter and early spring months, would appear to be indicated as a most
+desirable place of residence. I have had the advantage of two recent
+visits to this district, and feel convinced that, when it becomes better
+known, Parknasilla will prove a veritable haven of health and rest to
+the chronic invalid and the convalescent, as well as a delightful
+retreat to the busy man of the 'world's mart,' who may need a temporary
+repose from the worries and cares of daily life. Parknasilla is about a
+two hours' drive or thereabouts from Kenmare, the drive being one of
+exceptional beauty and interest."--_Dublin Journal of Medical Science_,
+May, 1896.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Garinish Island, Parknasilla.]
+
+
+DRIVING AND BOATING EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF PARKNASILLA.
+
+     No. 1--Car to Sneem, and by Killarney Road to Letterfinish; thence
+     to Tahilla Chapel, and return by Dunquilla (ancient fort), or
+     direct. _8s._
+
+     No. 2.--Car to Sneem and Letterfinish; on to Geragh Bridge, and by
+     Blackwater Valley and Coast Road to Tahilla, returning by
+     Dunquilla, or direct, _12s._
+
+     No. 3.--Car to Sneem and Coomyauna Bridge, pony (cost _5s._, to top
+     and back not included), or walk to summit of Beoun Mountain, view
+     of Glencar and M'Gillicuddy Reeks, Cloon, Lakes, and Coomlumina
+     Glen with Dingle Bay in the distance. Return same way. _12s._
+
+     No. 4.--Car to Sneem and Glorah, pony (cost _5s._, to top and back
+     not included), or walk to summit of Finnavagough, view of
+     Foylenagearough, Cloonaghlin, Derriana, and Waterville Lakes.
+     Return same way. _12s._
+
+     No. 5.--Car to Staigue Fort and back. This ancient round stone
+     Fort, in a wonderful state of preservation, is well worth a visit.
+     _16s._
+
+     No. 6.--Car to Blackwater Bridge and Waterfall; along the
+     Blackwater Valley to Lough Erin, view of Ballaghbeama Pass,
+     returning by Geragh Bridge, Sneem Road, and Tahilla. _16s._
+
+     No. 7.--By boat to Reenkilla, car to Glanmore Lake, and by Furniss
+     to Killmakillogue, skirting Derreen, Lord Lansdowne's demesne (fare
+     _5s._, not included). Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._
+
+     No. 8.--By boat to Ormonde's Island; car along shore of Clonea Lake
+     to Inchiquin, Glen and Cascade, thence by Derreen or coast road.
+     (Fare, _10s._, not included.) Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._
+
+     No. 9.--By boat to the Caves, and into Ardgroom Harbour; car by
+     Eyeries to Castletown-Bere, Dunboy Castle, and back (fare _10s._,
+     not included). Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._
+
+     Excursions by Steam Launch will also be organised to the Caves,
+     Ardgroom, Derrynane, and other places of interest on the Kenmare
+     River.
+
+[Illustration: Cycling at Parknasilla.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Blackwater at Kenmare.]
+
+The demesne around the hotel comprises one hundred acres of beautiful
+land, where tropical flora flourish all the year round. The meadows
+trim, with daisies pied, there are on every mossy bank the dewy lips of
+
+_"Violets dim, But sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes, Or Cytherea's
+breath."_
+
+The road to Kenmare lies high above the sea. Ardgroom is hiding under
+the Caha mountains, with Glenbeg Lake behind, in the little valley.
+Beneath Derrenamackan the lashing seas wage perpetual warfare against
+the rocks. By the Eskdhu, or Blackwater Bridge, amid the dense foliage
+of the trees, a waterfall bleats from the thicket with plaintive murmur.
+Then it breaks itself free, and amid rocks, and briars, and tangled
+underwood, rushes wildly towards the sea. Between us and the ocean is
+Dromore Castle, the residence of one of the heads of a sept of the
+O'Mahony clan. In the demesne are the ruins of Cappacross, a stronghold
+of the O'Sullivans. Dunkerron Castle, on the shore, gives its name to
+the islands in the bay.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+County Clare.
+
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Dromoland Castle.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Ennistymon.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lisdoonvarna Spa.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kilkee.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Amphitheatre at Kilkee.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Look-out Cliff, Kilkee.]
+
+[Illustration: Golfing at Lahinch]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Golfing, Lahinch.]
+
+Clare County possesses the finest cliff scenery in Ireland. From
+Limerick or Galway the county may be explored. On the journey by rail
+from Limerick, beyond Long Pavement, we come on a fine view of Cratloe
+woods. An ancient saint referred to Cratloe as "a pleasant seclusion
+from sin"; but in later times it became a haunt of rapparees, and its
+thick foliage provided what Spenser would call "a meet house for
+rebels." In later times Freney, a noted highwayman, whose exploits
+delighted the Irish peasant, here found a refuge. Bunratty Castle was a
+strong place in feudal times. Here Rinuccini, the Papal Legate to
+Ireland in 1641, sojourned, and his papers contain many references to
+the picturesqueness of the surrounding country, and its herds of wild
+deer. Between Newmarket and Ardsollus is Dromoland, the seat of Lord
+Inchiquin, and the birthplace of William Smith O'Brien, the aristocratic
+leader of the revolutionists of 1848. Crossing the Ardsollus river, we
+are near Quin Abbey, an old Franciscan Priory, and Clare Castle, which
+took its name from an old watch tower in the river Fergus. ~Ennis~ is
+the chief town in the County Clare. It is more quaint than important. It
+is pleasantly placed on the river Fergus, and is a clean town, doing a
+thriving business with the country. The principal monument in the
+town is to Daniel O'Connell, who was returned for Clare in the famous
+election of 1828. The ashes of the controversy that raged around
+O'Connell in his lifetime are long since dead, and if one wanted proof
+of this it is in the recent biography of the great agitator which
+appears in the "Heroes of the Nation" series. In that, the famous Clare
+election is treated with true historic discrimination by the writer, who
+compares the bravery of the Clare peasants at Ennis to the gallant
+Covenanters standing up against Claverhouse's Dragoons at Bothwell
+Bridge. From Ennis, by car and light railway, Ennistymon, Lehinch,
+Lisdoonvarna, and Ballyvaughan may be reached. At Ennistymon there is a
+splendid cascade on the Innagh river. ~Lisdoonvarna~ possesses the
+best known Spa in Ireland. It is come-at-able from Milltown-Malbay or
+Ennistymon. Its friends have called it "The Cheltenham of Ireland." It
+cannot be pretended that the immediate scenery is attractive, but there
+are many interesting drives in the vicinity. The hotels and lodgings are
+good. The sixth century Church of Saint Cronan, pleasantly placed in an
+ash-grove, will give those of an antiquarian taste opportunity of
+beguiling their time during a stay at the beneficial chalybeate and
+sulphurous springs. The drives from Lisdoonvarna may include tours to
+Ballyvaughan and the Cliffs of Moher. The drive by Black Head, the
+north-eastern promontory of county Clare, gives one a fine view as far
+north as the Arran; then we approach Ballyvaughan, in Galway Bay, an
+out-of-the-way old world village. Its approach is by a spiral hill, over
+two miles in length, called "The Corkscrew-road." The sides of the stony
+hills are interspersed with the most delicate maiden-hair fern, growing
+wild. There are two small but neat hotels in Ballyvaughan. From this
+little town Galway might be visited by steamer and the Arran Isles by
+hooker. ~Kilkee~ is admittedly the best bathing-place in these islands.
+It is dashed into with the full force of the Atlantic, but with the
+countless nooks fitted into the rocky coast-line, there are numbers of
+sandy strands suitable for bathing. Here, situated in the very outpost
+of the West of Ireland, it is as up-to-date and as go-a-head as some of
+its more fashionable rivals, while in natural advantages it excels them
+all. It is easy of access by land and sea. The town is protected by a
+long reef of rock, called "Duggerna." The cliff scenery is very
+beautiful. The spots to visit are The Puffing Hole, Saint Senanus' Holy
+Well, Bishop's Island, with its beehive cells and Green Rock. A tour to
+Loophead will bring one in sight of a long line of cliff scenery.
+~Lehinch~ and Liscanor Bay promise to become the best patronised golf
+links in Ireland. Right in front of the little town is a splendid
+strand, and local enterprise has been auxiliary to nature in making the
+spot attractive. ~Spanish Point~ also possesses splendid strands, where
+sea-bathing may be enjoyed with safety. Two miles away is
+~Milltown-Malbay~. The town is business-like, and the coast-line in the
+vicinity is associated with weird tales of wreckers; there some of the
+unfortunate Spaniards came to grief in 1588. The ~Cliffs of Moher~ may
+be visited from Milltown, Lehinch, or Lisdoonvarna. Going up the road
+from Lehinch to ~Liscanor~ we pass a Holy Well dedicated to Saint
+Brigid. The only cliff scenery in the British Isles to compare with that
+of Moher is at the Orkney islands. They make a magnificent embroidery
+into the red sandstone along the coast-line for four miles, rising in
+heights varying from 440 to 700 feet. From their height on a clear day
+the distant Isles of Arran may be seen, and the whole surroundings make
+as gorgeous a seascape as is to be found anywhere in the world. An
+observer will readily recognise that the quaint craft which the
+fishermen still use in the vicinity of Moher, as indeed elsewhere in
+Clare, is the ancient coracle. ~Kilrush~, on the Lower Shannon, is
+chiefly of interest to the antiquary. It can be reached from Limerick,
+by the Shannon, as pointed out already, and from Kilkee by Rail. By a
+ferry from a slip at the foot of the little town, the holy island,
+Scattery, the shrine of Saint Senanus, may be reached. The Round Tower
+is in good preservation, and the remains of the Seven Churches can
+still be traced. Saint Senanus' bed is still pointed out. No peasant
+woman who wishes to be a mother will ever enter this hallowed spot. The
+legend of Saint Senanus is similar to that of Saint Kevin. He was
+haunted by the love of a woman from whom he flew. Thomas Moore in verse
+tells us the hard-heartedness of both the anchorites:--
+
+  "Oh! haste, and leave this sacred isle,
+  Unholy bark, e'er morning smile,
+  For on thy deck, though dark it be,
+    A female form I see.
+  And I have sworn this sainted sod
+  Shall ne'er by woman's feet be trod."
+
+  "Oh! Father, send not hence my bark,
+  Through wintry winds and billows dark;
+  I come with humble heart to share
+    Thy morn and evening-prayer;
+  Nor mine the feet, oh! holy Saint,
+  The brightness of thy sod to taint."
+
+  The lady's prayer Senanus spurned,
+  The wind blew fresh, the bark returned;
+  But legends hint that had the maid
+    Till morning's light delay'd,
+  And given the Saint one rosy smile,
+  She ne'er had left his lonely isle.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cliffs of Moher.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kilrush.]
+
+[Illustration: Country Car.]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Galway and District.
+
+
+Leaving the County Clare by rail we cross into Galway, between Crusheen
+and Tubber. Beyond the marshy country on the right, away in the
+woodlands, nestles Loughcootra Castle. The great lake from which the
+place takes its name covers eight square miles. The hundreds of islets
+here scattered about its surface are the homes of thousands of herons.
+The country people have a belief that this bird is a messenger of good
+omen, and never interfere with it or its young. There is a beautiful
+legend in Irish of a heron which visited St. Columba, at Iona, a
+traveller from his own country. This story is recorded in the
+interesting life of the saint written in the seventh century by Adamnan,
+one of his successors; a beautiful version in English tells of the saint
+rising at dawn of day after a dream of the coming of the bird:--
+
+  "He looked out over the dreary moor,
+  Over the hill so bleak and hoar--
+  'A bird from the land I revisit no more
+    Has come to visit me,
+  Dear Innisfail from thy fragrant shore--
+  Land of my own I shall see no more--
+    Across the driving sea.'
+
+  Then he left his prayer, and 'Brother,' he said,
+  'Take to thee corn, and oil, and bread,
+  A bird has alit--half frozen, half dead--
+    Upon our southern strand.
+  Then warm him and feed him with gentle care,
+  And chafe his wing's and anoint him there,
+    He comes from my own loved land--
+  From my own loved land,' and the old Saint wept;
+  But the Monk arose, while the others slept,
+  And warmed the heron, and fed and kept
+    The bird for a day and night.
+  So Columb feeling, though far away,
+  For Ireland's soil--like the Gael to-day--
+    One favour in heaven's sight."
+
+The magnificent residence was designed and erected similarly to East
+Comer Castle (by Nash, who remodelled Windsor) for Lord Gort, the head
+of the Vereker family, at a cost of L70,000. The black hand of the
+famine of 1847 fed on this property, like many another in Ireland, and
+it passed from its owners under the Encumbered Estates Act. Cove Park,
+the residence of Lady Gregory, is just outside Gort. Her Ladyship has
+found a way to the hearts of the country people by her sympathy with the
+Irish language movement. Her volume, "Mr. Gregory's Letter Box," is a
+valuable contribution to the history of Ireland in the first three
+decades of the nineteenth century. Sir William Gregory's Memoirs it is
+that contain the circumstantial version of the Cabinet scandal, in which
+the name of the Hon. Mrs. Norton (George Meredith's "Diana of the
+Crossways") figures. The story of the leakage of the State secret is as
+follows:--
+
+     "When Sir Robert Peel determined to repeal the Corn Laws he
+     consulted a portion of his Cabinet. They were Sidney Herbert, Lord
+     Lincoln, Sir Jas. Graham, and Lord Aberdeen, all of whom determined
+     that the repeal of the Corn Laws should be kept a profound secret
+     until the whole of the Cabinet had assembled. That same evening
+     Sidney Herbert dined _tete-a-tete_ with Mrs. Norton, the well-known
+     object of his attachment, and with whom he was infatuated. Before
+     dinner was over she wormed out of him the secret of the Cabinet.
+     After dinner she pretended to go to see a sick friend for a short
+     time, and returned in half-an-hour. In the meantime she had taken a
+     cab and driven down to the _Times_ Office, and saw Barnes, the
+     Editor, and told him the Government were going to repeal the Corn
+     Laws. Barnes said to her, "If you have no proof I shall not detain
+     you, but if you have you shall have L500." She gave him the chapter
+     and verse, and returned to poor Sidney Herbert with the cheque in
+     her pocket. The next day the announcement was made in the _Times_
+     which astounded all England. This was on the 5th December, 1845.
+     The other papers disbelieved it. Lord Derby and the Duke of
+     Richmond left the Government."
+
+In the heart of a stony country beset with high fences and rough copple
+stones, stands the little town of ~Gort~, The military stationed there
+now add to its importance. Kilmacduagh, at the base of the Burren Hills,
+contains a church (seventh century) of St. Colman, the Blue-eyed, and a
+Round Tower leaning out of the perpendicular. In pre-historic times all
+this country side at the foot of Burren, from Gort to Loughrea, and for
+miles apart, is said to have been the favourite hunting-ground of Queen
+Maev. ~Kinvara~, away on an inlet of Galway Bay, is a fishing village,
+and the locality is celebrated for the "succulent oysters"--which in the
+season are to be found in every restaurant in Dublin. The antiquary will
+find his way easily to Corcomroe Abbey--the church is still in a good
+state of preservation. Donald More O'Brien, King of Limerick, is
+commonly believed to have built it in the twelfth century. It
+subsequently became subject to Furness, in Lancashire. Donough O'Brien,
+King of Thomond--killed in battle in 1267--is buried here; his monument
+discloses the rude magnificence of his attire. The effigy is looked upon
+by scientists as an example of the attire of an Irish King of the
+thirteenth century.
+
+~Athenry~, as its name, the "Ford of the Kings," signifies, and its
+ruins testify, was of old a place of renown. The tower is entered by a
+small gate tower; before it stands the quaint market cross, on one side
+is the Virgin and Child, on the other the figure of the Crucified. The
+base is relieved with deer and wolf hounds, and at the corner an angel
+holds a scroll, the legend of which is defaced. The Franciscan Priory
+(1464), despite the attempt to modernise it, has still two thirteenth
+century windows, and the south transept has the remains of a very
+beautiful window. The Dominican Priory is said to have been erected at
+the personal request of St. Dominick in 1241. So late as 1644 it was the
+seat of a university acknowledged by Rome.
+
+~Tuam~ is now of little importance. It is to ecclesiastics, however, of
+interest, as the centre of an Archiepiscopal See. The statue to John
+MacHale is worth seeing. He was well known in the first part of the
+nineteenth century as "John of Tuam." An uncompromising Ultramontane, he
+translated Homer into Gaelic, and O'Connell in one of his speeches
+called this great patriot bishop "The Lion of the Fold of Judah." The
+ancient cross in the square is a good specimen of the Irish stone
+crosses.
+
+~Galway~ still possesses the evidence of its former greatness. To-day it
+is simply an old world city in the midst of a sporting county. Of old it
+was a strong-walled town, ever on the alert against alarm and foray,
+with its harbour crowded with the warships of Spain and the merchantmen
+of many a foreign port. There is a famous map of the city, dating back
+to 1651, when the then Lord Deputy Clanricarde pledged the town to the
+Duke of Lorraine. It shows a walled-in town with fourteen gates, each
+guarded by a watch-tower.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Galway.]
+
+In the twelfth century, when De Burgo conquered O'Connor, he made Galway
+the citadel of his western possessions. During the next century there
+gathered into the prosperous town from far and near adventurers and
+merchants--the Blakes and the Bodkins, the Lynches, the Morrises, the
+Martins, the Joyces, &c.; founders of the great families, whose names
+have since been inseparable from Galway. In after times the clanship and
+attachment of these families to their members and each other, drew from
+the Scripture-loving Puritans the scornful appellation--"The Tribes of
+Galway"; but the expression was afterwards adopted by the Galway men as
+an honourable mark of distinction between themselves and their cruel
+oppressors. In old times the merchant princes of the place were renowned
+for their hospitality, which they carried to such an excess that the
+civil authorities interfered with it, in 1518, with a law to the effect
+that
+
+  "No man of this town shall oste or receive into their houses at
+  Christmas, Easter, nor no feaste elles, any of the Burkes,
+  MacWilliams, the Kellies, nor no cepte elles without license of
+  the Mayor and Councill, on payn to forfeit L5; that neither O nor
+  Mac shall strutte nor swaggere through the street of Gallway."
+
+Indeed, the O's and Mac's seem to have made their history by more than
+enjoying the hospitality of their neighbours, and what was not given
+them willingly they at times took by the strength of their right hands.
+Over the western gate of the city was the following meaningful
+inscription:--
+
+  "From the fury of the O'Flaherties, good Lord, deliver us."
+
+The trade with Spain was for centuries a source of great prosperity to
+the town, and those familiar with the characteristics of Spanish
+architecture will see much in Galway to remind them of it. The sympathy
+of the townspeople seems always to have been with the leaders of forlorn
+hopes in Irish history. It was almost destroyed by Ludlow for its
+fidelity to the King in 1652, and having been rebuilt, it again fell
+before the siege trains of the victorious Ginckle in 1691 after the
+battle of Aughrim, the Culloden of Ireland. With the fall of the
+Jacobite standard in that battle, the hopes of the western Irish
+declined. The surviving sons of most of the old families sought service
+abroad in the armies of France, Spain, and Austria. There are many love
+songs of the time in Irish, which have been translated, such as--
+
+
+AFTER AUGHRIM.
+
+  Do you remember long-ago,
+        Kathaleen!
+  When your lover whispered low--
+  "Shall I stay or shall I go,
+        Kathaleen?"
+  And you answered proudly, "Go,
+  And join King James and strike a blow
+        For the Green."
+
+  Mavrone! your hair is white as snow,
+        Kathaleen,
+  Your heart is sad and full of woe--
+  Do you repent you bade him go,
+        Kathaleen?
+  But still you answer proudly, "No,
+  Far better die with Sarsfield so,
+  Than live a slave without a blow
+        For the Green."
+
+Many of the old houses remain. Far and away the most interesting is
+Lynch's mansion at the corner of Abbey Gate-street. On the walls are the
+arms of the Lynches and their crest, a lynx, which it is said was given
+them for the watchfulness with which they guarded a besieged Austrian
+town in the middle ages. Behind Saint Nicholas' Church, in
+Market-street, is the Lynch stone, inscribed with a skull and
+crossbones, and "Vanity of vanity, and all is but vanity," above which
+is an inscription:--
+
+     "This memorial of the stern and unbending justice of the Chief
+     Magistrate of this city, James Lynch Fitzstephen, elected Mayor,
+     A.D. 1493, who condemned and executed his own guilty son, Walter,
+     on this spot, has been restored to its ancient site A.D. 1854, with
+     the approval of the Town Commissioners, by their Chairman, Very
+     Rev. Peter Daly, P.P., and Vicar of Saint Nicholas."
+
+The stern and unbending justice relates to the Mayor's execution of his
+own son. The story tells how a young Spaniard, who was the Mayor's
+guest, crossed in love the Mayor's son. One night, heated with wine and
+inflamed with jealousy, young Lynch drove a stiletto through the heart
+of his rival. His father tried and condemned him for the crime. His
+mother roused the sympathy of the townspeople to such an extent that
+none could be found to act as executioner, but the old Mayor was
+even-handed with them, and hanged the unfortunate culprit with his own
+hands.
+
+No visitor to Galway will fail to find out the Claddagh. It is the most
+conservative community in Ireland, and with them neither old times are
+changed nor old manners gone. The colony inhabit a number of
+low-thatched cottages apart from the town. They live mostly by fishing.
+The Claddagh women dress in blue cloaks and red petticoats, and their
+rings, which visitors procure as keepsakes, represent two hands holding
+a harp. Hardman, in his "Rare History of Galway," wrote of them as
+follows:--
+
+     "The colony, from time immemorial, has been ruled by one of their
+     own body, periodically elected, who is dignified with the title of
+     Mayor, regulates the community according to their own peculiar laws
+     and customs, and settles all their fishery disputes. His decisions
+     are so decisive and so much respected that the parties are seldom
+     known to carry their differences before a legal tribunal or to
+     trouble the civil magistrates."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Arran Island. Claddagh.]
+
+Salthill, to the west of the town, is a well-sheltered bathing-place,
+with pleasant villas for visitors. The Queen's College will repay a
+visit. At the bridge in the town excellent salmon fishing is to be had.
+When the fish are making up the river for Corrib or Lough Mask the
+sight is very interesting. From Galway the old Franciscan Monastery at
+Claregalway may be driven to, or an excursion made down the bay to the
+Arran Islands. They are twenty-seven miles from the harbour. There are
+three principal islands, Innismore, Innismaan, and Innisheen, and
+several small isles. Two centuries ago they were described as paved over
+with stones, with wide openings between them for cattle to break their
+legs, and the modern description by Hon. Emily Lawless does not far
+differ.
+
+The dress of the people is mostly white, homespun flannel "bawneens,"
+and sandals of cowhide, fastened across the instep, which they call
+"pampooties."
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Queen's College, Galway.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Connemara and Sligo.
+
+
+The Great Southern and Western Railway line runs northward from Tuam to
+Sligo. To the westward lies Iar Connaught and Connemara, the capital of
+which is Clifden, standing high above Ardhear Bay. If we go direct from
+Galway to Clifden we pass Oughterard and the ruins of Aughnanure Castle,
+formerly the stronghold of "The furious O'Flahertys." From its Tower we
+can get a view of Lough Corrib, with its famous Caislean-no-Circe, long
+the lair of Grace O'Malley, of whom the western peasant may say she
+
+  "Fought, and sailed, and ruled,
+  And loved, and made our world."
+
+Oughterard nowadays is given over to fishermen instead of the fighting
+followers of the western chieftains. The Connaught Glendalough differs
+much from its Leinster namesake, but the Maamturk Mountains and the Glen
+of Innagh have a panorama of scenes difficult, indeed, to rival. Clifden
+is an excellent centre from which to make excursions. Wherever we look
+the Twelve Bens of Bumabeola spring up like uplifted lances. The
+coast-line is beautiful, and from the promontories we see distant Slyne
+Head and the Isles of the West. Mountain climbers will find on the
+summit of Urrisbeg a curious plateau. The district is a good one for
+lake and sea fishing.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Achill Head Mayo.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Diamond Mountain, Letterfrack.]
+
+The coast drive to Leenane should not be missed. Leenane itself is on
+the outer flank of "Joyce's County," as a fiord of Killery Bay.
+Letterfrack is but ten miles from Clifden. The mountain scenery in the
+immediate vicinity of the town is delightful. Within easy reach is
+Little Killery Bay and the beautiful valley, The Pass of Kylemore, near
+which is Kylemore Castle, where Mitchell Henry started his model farm in
+1864. The mountain pass of Lehinch cuts through the hills to the sea. A
+journey by Ballinakill brings the adventuresome to Renvyle Bay, where
+there is a comfortable hotel. Leenane is the best starting ground for an
+expedition up the Twelve Bens; from it also a tour may be made to Cong.
+
+About eight miles beyond Leenane is Errig Bridge, from which the best
+view of Croagh Patrick Mountain may be had. But an ascent of the
+mountain is best made from Murrisk Abbey, six miles outside Westport.
+From the mountain side the expansive country from island-set Clew Bay to
+Nephin and Slievemore, in Achill, spreads out to best advantage. The
+famous coach road from Clifden cuts into Westport from the south. The
+Quay and Mall and the Marquis of Sligo's demesne are the "sights" of the
+town. It is a convenient centre from which to visit Achill Island. The
+drive through Newport, Mallaranny, and Achill Sound to Dingort, although
+across an exposed country, on a fine day will more than repay the
+tourist.
+
+The views of Clew Bay are like the changing scenes in a panorama.
+Newport will clamour for the attention of fishermen; and lavish on them
+opportunities for sport. The Glens on the way to Mallaranny will tempt
+excursions, and beyond Burrishoole Bridge the antiquary will deviate
+to Carrighooley Castle, and lend his ears to the peasant tales of Grace
+O'Malley and her husband, the MacWilliam.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Glendalough.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lough Corrib.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Killery Bay.]
+
+Mallaranny is a home of rest. It hides beside a promontory in the bay,
+and its splendid strand faces the south. The direct way to Achill is
+through Dingort. For scenery and sport few places in the west surpass
+the island. The mountain cliff scenery is superb. The seals breed in the
+cliffs, and the rocks are the homes of countless seabirds. At Meenawn,
+the eagles on the island mostly nest. The great horned wild goats offer
+good sport to the marksman, and the deep-sea fisher will delight in the
+shoals and "schools" of herring and mackerel which in the seasons strike
+the coast and into the bays of the island. Did Izaac Walton but live in
+our days he would be sure to find his way to Ballina, because of the Moy
+River and the salmon which "most do congregate there." Loughs Conn and
+Cullin are open free fishing, and on the preserves the terms are most
+liberal. Foxford, beside Lough Conn, will gladden the hearts of those
+interested in philanthropic schemes for the benefit of "the very poor"
+in rural Ireland. Within a few years, enterprises well directed, has
+transformed the district from being a "most distressful country" into a
+thriving, self-respecting, self-advancing locality. Killala, six miles
+from Ballina, is of interest as the point at which General Humbert and
+1,100 Frenchmen invaded Ireland in 1798. Sligo is the most thriving town
+in the west of Ireland. Its public buildings, its commerce, and its
+picturesque position, are one and all notable. Sligo Abbey, a structure
+of the thirteenth century, is a very remarkable pile of ruins. Lough
+Gill contains most beautiful sylvan and sea pictures. There is sea,
+lake, and river fishing _galore_, and mostly free. The point from which
+to see Lough Gill in all its glory is Dooine Rock. Excursions may be
+made to Hazelwood, Glencar, and even to Bundoran, the most deservedly
+patronised watering-place in the north-west of Ireland. Those who
+desire an exquisite souvenir of a visit to Ireland, should not fail to
+procure a piece of Belleek ware, remarkable for its elegance and
+delicacy; and if in the vicinity of Belleek village, permission may be
+obtained to visit the interesting pottery.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Kylemore.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Lough Gill.]
+
+    For information as to Sport to be had in the Sligo District, see end
+    of this volume, where particulars are given as to Golf, Fishing,
+    Shooting, Cycling, &c.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+Summer and Winter Resorts
+
+
+The health resorts of Ireland are so many, their attractions and
+advantages so varied, that one wonders why it is that they are
+comparatively so little patronised. The explanation is not far to seek.
+Hitherto they have been but little known, one cause and another have
+helped to keep Ireland a _terra incognita_. The "faculty," however, has
+been for long acquainted with the benefits which the Green Isle
+possesses, and many an insular invalid, consumed with the desire to
+visit some continental resort, has taken the common sense advice of the
+family physician and learned to appreciate the advantages Providence has
+bestowed nearer home.
+
+Winter quarters we have a good store, and beauty spots abound on the
+coast, where summer delights can be enjoyed _galore_, to use an Irish
+expression.
+
+Most of the places referred to beneath have already been described in
+the foregoing pages, but it will, perhaps, be convenient for those in
+search of particular information as to health resorts and seaside
+watering places, to have them collected in one chapter and listed
+alphabetically--
+
+     ~ARDMORE.~--Fishing village, five miles from Youghal, growing as a
+     watering place. Beautifully situated on southern shore of Bay.
+     Splendid strand, good opportunities for bathing. Deep-sea fishing,
+     mackerel, and herring "schools," plenty of lobsters. Cliff scenery
+     in vicinity; the bay is frequented by seals. Gaelic-speaking
+     peasantry. Round tower and ancient church. Good cottage
+     accommodation.
+
+     ~ARRAN ISLANDS.~--Three in number--Innismore, Innismaan,
+     Innisheer--standing out in the Atlantic, a sort of long harbour bar
+     to Galway Bay. Scenery cannot pretend to be attractive. Bathing and
+     deep-sea fishing. Splendid views of cliff scenery on Clare Coast.
+     Steam trip up Galway Bay delightful. An enjoyable inn at Kilronan.
+
+     BALLYBUNION.--Good watering place, splendid strand, fine cliff
+     scenery, sheer on Atlantic Ocean, plenty bathing accommodation.
+     Castle Hotel is comfortable, lodgings clean and cheap. Eight miles
+     from Listowel.
+
+     BLARNEY.--Hydro, at St. Ann's Hill, on the side of pleasant uplands
+     overlooking old castle. Nicely wooded, with lake and trout stream.
+     Cottage homes, within grounds which are between six and seven
+     hundred acres in extent. Sandy soil and pine forests. The
+     residences well sheltered. Six miles from City Cork and Muskerry
+     tram; two miles G. S. W. Railway. Terms and particulars of
+     treatment, &c., to be had from the medical officer, Dr. Altdorfer.
+
+     CAHIRCIVEEN.--An inlet of Valencia Harbour, well sheltered, mild
+     winters. Coach drives through mountain scenery or along coast to
+     Waterville. Valencia three miles.
+
+     CASTLECONNELL.--Fishing village on the Shannon, outside Limerick,
+     six miles. Possesses chalybeate spring. Beautiful river scenery,
+     and splendid fishing. The Shannon Hotel can be recommended.
+
+     DUNMORE EAST.--Pleasant, quiet, and select seaside resort, eleven
+     miles from Waterford, at the mouth of the River Suir. Good strand,
+     well sheltered. Splendid sea fishing and exceptionally good harbour
+     for yachting or boating. Plenty of villa and lodging-accommodation,
+     demand for same on increase in season. Good bathing; good hotel.
+
+     GLENGARRIFF.--Coach from Kenmare or Bantry. Beautiful scenery.
+     Inlet of Bantry Bay. Well wooded, mild climate, winter resort
+     beyond compare. Gulf Stream strikes coast in vicinity. Excellent
+     hotel accommodation. Good cottage accommodation. Plenty coaching
+     and boating facilities in summer; splendid sea bathing. Arbutus
+     grows wild.
+
+     KENMARE.--One of the starting-points for the Grand Atlantic Coast
+     Drive. Thriving pleasant town at the head of the fiord.
+     Macgillicuddy Reeks stand out behind the town. Mountain climbers
+     will make ascent best from point beyond Sohaleen Bridge. Both the
+     Cork and Kerry sides of the bay are very beautiful and worthy of
+     investigation. The Southern Hotels Company has one of its branches
+     outside the railway station. The Lansdowne Arms is an old coaching
+     inn, famed for its mountain mutton and good claret.
+
+     ~KILKEE.~--The best bathing-resort in the three kingdoms. Splendid
+     facilities. The cliff scenery and coast walks attractive. Good
+     villa and cottage accommodation. Modern hotels on esplanade.
+
+     ~KILLARNEY~, see page 136.
+
+     ~LEHINCH.~--Bracing air from Atlantic. Good bathing. Bold coast
+     line. New hotel, fine golf links. Promises to be the most
+     up-to-date watering place in Clare.
+
+     ~LEENANE.~--The pleasant place on Killary Harbour. It has the
+     Mweelrea mountains behind it and the sea in front. The bay is
+     remarkable for sea fishing, while the salmon and trout angler will
+     have his heart's desire in Errif Lake. The Leenane Hotel stands
+     close to the shore, and the Aasleagh Hotel, high above the Errif,
+     is surrounded by demesne lands. The mountain scenery is remarkable.
+
+     ~LISDOONVARNA.~--Inland watering place. An old favourite health
+     resort now more easy of access than hitherto. The spas are
+     sulphurous and chalybeate. The hotel accommodation is unusually
+     good, but still insufficient for the summer and early autumn
+     visitors. The driving tours in the locality take in the most
+     delightful scenery in county Clare.
+
+     ~LUCAN.~--A very old spa. Beautiful sylvan retreat within nine
+     miles of Dublin. Scenery on upper Liffey and drives in vicinity
+     through charming country. The Hydro, equipped with every modern
+     advantage.
+
+     ~PARKNASILLA.~--THE PREMIER WINTER RESORT OF IRELAND. Hotel well
+     sheltered on fiord of Kenmare Bay. The grounds around beautifully
+     wooded and planted with luxuriant shrubs. Absolutely free from
+     winter cold. This country side the pride of Kerry. The seascape and
+     islands in vicinity delightful. Admirable arrangements for boating,
+     fishing, and coaching.
+
+     ~POULAPHOUCA.~--Approached from Harristown on the Tullow branch. The
+     upper Liffey winds here through a beautiful glen with a splendid
+     fall beyond Poulaphouca bridge. Splendid facilities for shooting and
+     fishing are afforded in the surrounding mountain country.
+     Convenient centre for pedestrian and cycle tours. Hotel immediately
+     above the Fall, also good hotel at Blessington: and four miles
+     higher up in the Wicklow Highlands, at Lacken, excellent hotel.
+
+     ~QUEENSTOWN.~--"The Paradise of Pensioners." The port of Cork
+     Harbour. Centre of American tourist traffic. Well sheltered. Long
+     the winter quarters of invalids. Every facility for visitors.
+     Within easy reach of Cork city. Excellent train service. In summer
+     steamer trips on beautiful river. Several good hotels; splendid
+     villa accommodation. A bright cheerful town, full of life and
+     change of colour. A well known specialist (Dr. A. Thomson), in his
+     "Physician's Note Book," puts the query--"Where should a
+     consumptive patient pass the winter months if he can't go abroad?"
+     and answers himself, "There is no place within Great Britain and
+     Ireland so well adapted for the residence of a consumptive patient
+     as Queenstown."
+
+     ~RECESS.~--Midway between Clifden and Kylemore, on the edge of the
+     western Glendalough, guarded behind by mountain scenery, secluded,
+     but all the more attractive to those weary of the busy haunts of
+     men. The lake and mountain scenery exceptionally wild. It is an
+     ideal resort for sportsmen.
+
+     ~TRAMORE.~--One of the most attractive watering places in Ireland.
+     Its name in English signifies "the great strand," and it is no
+     misnomer. The bathing facilities are the best on southern coast,
+     and are not, indeed, surpassed on any other coast. Splendid new
+     hotel up-to-date in every respect, and other hotels to suit all
+     classes, with fine race-course, plenty of lodgings and houses to be
+     had in the season. Twenty minutes run from Waterford by train.
+     Military bands in the summer. Exceptionally good place for
+     families. Tramore is a delightful seaside resort, built on a
+     gradual incline, with a southerly aspect, on the shores of the
+     broad Atlantic. The air is almost proverbial for its restorative
+     qualities, not only in popular but also in scientific opinion. It
+     is beyond all doubt that Tramore has as many hours of sunshine,
+     less rainfall, and more even temperature than any other seaside
+     town in the United Kingdom.
+
+     ~VALENCIA.~--The next parish to America, the home of Atlantic cable
+     stations. The island remarkable for the number of tropical plants
+     which grow in the open. Climate unusually mild. Boating, sailing,
+     and bathing in the season. Deep-sea fishing with islanders. Good
+     hotel, comfortable, clean, and cheap. Other accommodation difficult
+     to obtain.
+
+     ~WATERFORD~, see page 112.
+
+     ~WATERVILLE.~--Principal posting place on Atlantic coast tour.
+     Splendid watering place, beautifully situated on strip of land
+     dividing mountain lake from sea. Fine strand. Sea and lake fishing.
+     The station for Mackey Bennet cable system. Three good hotels,
+     M'Elligott's and Galvin's, on the coast, and the Southern Hotel on
+     the shore of the picturesque Lough Currane, within a stone's throw
+     of the sea. Very good cottage accommodation in summer season.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Natural History of the South and West of Ireland.
+
+By R. LLOYD PRAEGER, B.A., B.E., &c.
+
+
+The Natural History of the South and West of Ireland possesses a special
+and peculiar interest in the occurrence in this region of a number of
+plants and animals which are rare in or absent from Great Britain and
+the adjoining portions of Europe. Let us first consider the general
+geographical features of this area, and the geological characters which
+have produced those features. Ireland has often been likened to a
+saucer, consisting as it does of a great central plain, fringed with
+mountain groups disposed around the coast. The plain has a slightly
+undulating floor of Carboniferous limestone; the groups of hills are
+mostly formed of older rocks, which break through the level limestones.
+On our journey from Dublin to Athlone, or from Dublin to Mallow, we pass
+across typical portions of the central plain; and the brown ridges of
+Slieve Bloom and Devil's Bit, and the greener heights of the Galtees,
+furnish good examples of the masses of older rocks that rise out of the
+plain.
+
+In considering the features and natural history of this wide area, it
+will be convenient to divide it into districts, which we shall treat of
+in the following order:--
+
+  1. Wicklow and Wexford.
+
+  2. Waterford and East Cork.
+
+  3. West Cork and Kerry.
+
+  4. Clare and East Galway.
+
+  5. West Galway and West Mayo.
+
+  6. Sligo.
+
+  7. The Central Plain and River Shannon.
+
+
+1. ~WICKLOW AND WEXFORD.~--Here we are on the East Coast, looking across
+St. George's Channel towards the shores of Wales. The lovely county of
+Wicklow is the most mountainous in Ireland, having 180 square miles over
+1,000 feet elevation, and 25 square miles over 2,000. Wexford is lower
+and more fertile. The coasts of both counties are in great measure flat
+and sandy, and are the home of many rare plants. A number of species of
+light soils and of gravelly shores have here their Irish headquarters,
+such as the Round-headed Trefoil (_Trifolium glomeratum_) the Sea-Stock
+(_Matthiola sinuata_), the rare Sea-Cudweed (_Diotis candidissima_), and
+the Wild Asparagus (_A. officinalis_). The Murrough, a great gravel
+beach backed by salt marshes which extends from Greystones to Wicklow,
+and the marshes of the River Slaney, may be specially recommended to the
+naturalist. These coasts are the only Irish locality for the handsome
+ground-beetle, _Nebria complanata_, a typical South European animal. The
+Wicklow mountains, which reach in Lugnaquilla a height of 3,039 feet,
+are the main portion of the Leinster highlands, formed by a great mass
+of granite which stretches from Dublin into county Kilkenny. Considering
+their elevation this range is singularly devoid of alpine plants and
+animals, but many interesting species inhabit the lower grounds, famous
+on account of the beauty of the scenery.
+
+Among the Lepidoptera several rare species are characteristic of the
+district, such as the "Bath White" butterfly (_Pontia daplidice_), and
+the "Four-spotted Footman" moth (_OEnistis quadra_).
+
+2. ~WATERFORD AND EAST CORK.~--This is a picturesque district, formed
+largely of slates and sandstones of Old Red Sandstone age. The coast
+is mostly of very bold character, with towering cliff ranges. The
+country is generally undulating and fertile, with occasional mountain
+ranges, of which the Comeraghs are rendered especially interesting and
+picturesque by the deep "cooms," embosoming tarns, which give them their
+name. The Comeraghs and the lovely valley of the Blackwater furnish
+particularly attractive ground for the naturalist. The flora and fauna
+of this area are intermediate in character between that of the district
+last considered and of the surpassingly interesting country that lies to
+the westward, and which will next claim attention. Thus, the coasts
+yield several of the rare plants mentioned in the last paragraph--for
+instance, _Diotis_ and _Asparagus_ grow at Tramore; while at the same
+time we first meet in this area with some of the most famous plants of
+the south-west--London Pride (_Saxifraga umbrosa_), Kidney-leaved
+Saxifrage (_S. Geum_), Great Butterwort (_Pinguicula grandiflora_),
+Irish Spurge (_Euphorbia hiberna_). Two rare butterflies of this
+district are _Dianthaecia caesia_ and _D. luteago_ var. _Barrettii_; and
+the largest of the British leaf-beetles, _Timarcha laevigata_, has been
+taken near Waterford, and at Tipperary.
+
+[Illustration: _Drawing, J. St. J. Phillips._ Geological Section from
+Bantry Bay to Killarney.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Welch, Belfast._ A Kerry ditchbank showing
+Pennywort two feet in height.]
+
+3. ~WEST CORK AND KERRY.~--This is one of the most beautiful and
+interesting districts in the British Isles, and indeed in Europe. The
+ancient Devonian rocks which prevail have been folded into a grand
+series of simple arches and troughs, the axes running north-east and
+south-west. The arches form noble mountain ranges, which on the coast
+project far into the Atlantic in a series of grand promontories, and
+inland form picturesque highlands, of which Macgillicuddy's Reeks, which
+rise to 3,404, constitute the highest land in Ireland. The valleys in
+their lower portions are occupied by the sea, in the form of long
+island-studded fiords; their upper parts are often filled with
+Carboniferous limestone, and offer a pleasant contrast of tillage and
+green pasture between the gaunt brown mountain-ribs. Here we stand on
+the most western outpost of the European Continent, with the Atlantic on
+three sides. The effect of the encompassing ocean, and the western winds
+which constantly blow in from it, is to produce here and along the whole
+western coast the most uniform annual temperature to be found in Europe.
+Frosts are almost unknown, and great heat and drought likewise. These
+peculiar climatic conditions have resulted in the acquisition and
+preservation of a fauna and flora which spread here from more southern
+latitudes at some time now long gone by, and which in these favoured
+spots still remain to remind us of a period when a state of things
+prevailed very different from what obtains at present. For naturalists
+tell us that there can be no doubt that these southern plants and
+animals migrated to Ireland over land-surfaces now destroyed, having
+spread along the old-time coast line which long ago extended from the
+Pyrenean highlands to Ireland; and as a relic of their march, we find
+some of the species still surviving in the south-west of England, while
+all of them are absent from the rest of England and from the adjoining
+parts of continental Europe.
+
+An enumeration of a few of the most remarkable of the plants, with a
+definition of their range, will make clearer this peculiar feature of
+the natural history of the West of Ireland:--
+
+[Illustration: Saxifraga umbrosa.]
+
+London Pride (_Saxifraga umbrosa_). In Ireland along the west and south
+coasts. Absent from England. On the Continent it is found only in the
+south.
+
+Kidney-leaved Saxifrage (_S. Geum_). In Ireland in the south-west.
+Unknown in England. On the Continent confined to the Pyrenean district
+
+Strawberry-tree (_Arbutus unedo_). In Ireland in the south-west. Unknown
+in England. On the Continent it grows all along the Mediterranean.
+
+Great Butter wort (_Pinguicula grandiflora_). In Ireland in the
+south-west. Unknown in England. On the Continent it grows on the Alps
+and in the south-west.
+
+Irish Spurge (_Euphorbia hiberna_). In Ireland along the south and west
+coasts. In England it is confined to Devonshire. On the Continent it
+occurs only in the south-west.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, J. St. J. Phillips._ Among the Arbutus, Cloonee
+Lakes.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Welch, Belfast._ Arbutus Islands, Killarney.]
+
+Going for a moment further north, we find in Connemara, and there only,
+a group of three kinds of Heath with the same peculiar distribution:--
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Welch, Belfast._ The Irish Spurge.]
+
+  St. Dabeoc's Heath (_Dabeocia polifolia_). In Ireland
+  in Connemara. Unknown in England. On the
+  Continent confined to the south-west.
+
+  Mediterranean Heath (_Erica mediterranea_). In
+  Ireland in Connemara. Unknown in England.
+  On the Continent confined to the south-west.
+
+  Mackay's Heath (_E. Mackaiana_). In Ireland in
+  Connemara. Unknown in England. On the
+  Continent in Spain only.
+
+Nor is it the plants alone that exhibit the peculiar relation existing
+between the Natural History of Ireland and of the Pyrenean region.
+Among the animals the same features may be observed, the most striking
+instance being the peculiar Kerry Slug (_Geomalacus maculosus_), which
+is abundant in many parts of the extreme south-west of Ireland, and is
+elsewhere found only in Portugal.
+
+[Illustration: _Drawing, Dr. R. F. Scharff._ The Kerry Slug.]
+
+Mixed with these southern forms in the West of Ireland we find another
+group of still stranger affinities. In pools and lakes from Kerry to
+Donegal grows the curious Pipe-wort (_Eriocaulon septangulare_). It may
+be also found in the Island of Skye, in the West of Scotland, but
+nowhere else in Europe; to see it again we must go to the northern
+regions of North America, where it flourishes under conditions much more
+rigorous than those which obtain in its mild Irish home. The deliciously
+fragrant orchid, _Spiranthes Romanzoviana_, grows in the counties of
+Cork, Armagh, Antrim, and Londonderry; elsewhere only in sub-arctic
+America and the portion of Asia which most nearly approaches the Alaskan
+shores. The "Blue-eyed Grass" of Canada (_Sisyrinchium angustifolium_)
+is likewise confined to the West of Ireland and to North America; and
+further instances might be quoted. In the animal kingdom, too, parallel
+cases have been noted, the most interesting being the discovery of no
+less than three American species of fresh-water sponge, which are
+unknown in the rest of Europe.
+
+To account for the presence of this American group naturalists are
+driven, as in the case of the southern species, to the conclusion that
+these represent one of the very oldest components of our existing fauna
+and flora, and point to a period when the edge of Europe was prolonged
+far to the north-west, forming a continuous land area, presumably by way
+of Iceland and Greenland, to America. And here on the wild western coast
+of Ireland these last inhabitants of the lost lands of Europe still
+survive.
+
+[Illustration: The Kerry Slug, showing the manner in which its
+coloration mimics clusters of lichen among which it lives.]
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Welch, Belfast._ Nest of Wood Ant at Killarney]
+
+4. ~CLARE AND EAST GALWAY.~--Our last district--West Cork and Kerry--was
+characterised by great ribs of slate and sandstone, and by an absence of
+limestone and the numerous plants which follow in its train. The present
+district forms a marked contrast, being largely composed of
+Carboniferous limestone. And the remarkable thing about these limestones
+is that they are over many miles totally devoid of any covering of soil
+or clay; the grey gnarled rock, fantastically carved and crevassed by
+the action of rain and weather, lies naked and bare. But in the crevices
+of the rock a wonderful variety of rare and beautiful plants abound. One
+or two of these have their home in the far south, like the plants we
+have lately considered, notably the little Close-flowered Orchid,
+_Neotinea intacta_, whose nearest station is about Nice. But the
+majority of the interesting species of these limestones are alpine
+plants, usually found at high elevations on mountains, which here form
+sheets of verdure down to the very edge of the sea. The Mountain Dryas
+(_D. octopetala_), the Bearberry (_Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi_), the lovely
+Spring Gentian (_G. verna_), and the Blue Moor-grass (_Sesleria
+caerulea_) are good examples, all of them growing in great abundance from
+the hill-tops down to the shore. It is this strange mingling of plants
+from the far south, from the far north, and from the mountains, which
+renders the West of Ireland so fascinating a field for the botanist. In
+the barren district of Clare, and in the adjoining Isles of Arran and
+south-west portion of county Galway, this peculiar flora may be seen in
+its greatest perfection. Some very rare insects have been taken in
+eastern Galway, including the Lepidoptera _Nallia ancilla_ and _Lycaena
+artexerus_.
+
+[Illustration: _Photo, Welch, Belfast._ Wolf Spider (_Pisaura
+mirabilis_) spinning nest for young.]
+
+5. ~WEST GALWAY AND WEST MAYO~.--In this district we have again a
+complete change of geology and of scenery. The grey limestones with rich
+grass and rare flowers filling every crevice are gone, and we are in a
+wild region of ancient metamorphic rocks--schists, quartzites, gneisses,
+and granites--which form wide moorlands, dotted with innumerable
+lakelets, with noble mountain groups rising over the wild boggy
+lowlands. To the student of metamorphism the geology of this area is of
+very high interest. The botanist finds himself once again, as in Kerry,
+in a focus of the southern flora already discussed. As stated above,
+Connemara contributes to the list of Pyrenean plants three Heaths, of
+which St. Dabeoc's Heath is the loveliest of the British representatives
+of the order. Here we may also meet again our old Kerry friends the
+London Pride, and on Inisbofin the Irish Spurge--plants which strictly
+avoid the limestone, as do the Heaths. The American element is
+represented by the Pipe-wort, which is common, and the little water
+plant, _Naias flexilis_, which grows near Roundstone. Of the three
+famous Heaths, St. Dabeoc's is abundant throughout Connemara, becoming
+rarer in Mayo. The Mediterranean Heath grows near Roundstone, and in
+immense abundance on the north side of Clew Bay, and again near the
+north-west corner of Mayo, extending inland as far as Lough Conn.
+Mackay's Heath is the rarest, being confined to the neighbourhood of
+Roundstone. As regards its fauna, Connemara and West Mayo yield fewer
+peculiar species than the south-west; but much remains to be done before
+it can be said that the zoology of this area is thoroughly known, and it
+offers a most promising field for the explorer.
+
+
+6. ~SLIGO.~--The visitor who makes Sligo his headquarters finds himself
+in a district of much variety and interest. This is a district that
+cannot be too highly recommended to the naturalist. To the geologist the
+fossiliferous limestones and the metamorphic rocks are alike of
+interest. The botanist naturally turns to the Ben Bulben Mountains,
+which harbour the richest group of alpine plants to be found in Ireland,
+including the pretty _Arenaria ciliata_, which does not grow elsewhere
+in the British Isles. To the zoologist a rich field lies waiting. A
+recent exploration of the limestone glens by a party of English and
+Irish conchologists has shown that in variety of land mollusca this
+district surpasses almost any other in these islands; and good results
+may be confidently expected in other invertebrate groups.
+
+
+7. ~THE CENTRE.~--The area comprised in the field of operations of the
+Great Southern and Western Railway Company include the southern half of
+the great Central Plain of Ireland and the lower course of the Shannon,
+the largest river in the British Isles. Towards the east the counties of
+Carlow and Kilkenny include much picturesque ground, especially along
+the courses of the rivers Nore and Barrow; and as picturesque ground
+implies the existence of hill and valley, wood and rock, the naturalist
+will find himself at home here. The flora is rich, though without any
+very marked features; the Nettle-leaved Bell-flower (_Campanula
+Trachelium_) being the most characteristic species. Regarding the fauna
+much has still to be learned. In Tipperary, Queen's County, and King's
+County we are in typical central plain country--great tracts of slightly
+undulating drift-covered Carboniferous limestone, the surface including
+wide pastures, cultivated ridges, and large areas of peat bog and marsh.
+The bogs, which form so peculiar a feature of the surface of Ireland,
+may be studied here over many miles of country. The noble Shannon, which
+winds slowly southward across the plain, widens at intervals into great
+lake-like expanses, of which Lough Derg is the largest, a place of much
+interest to the student of natural history. One plant which grows here,
+the Willow-leaved Inula (_I. salicina_), is found nowhere else in the
+British Isles; other characteristic Shannon plants are the Water
+Germander (_Teucrium Scordium_) and the rare Stone wort _Chara
+tomentosa_. Further west, in Limerick, a more varied surface prevails.
+Like Waterford and Cork, Limerick is a great centre for animals of the
+"Southern" distributional type, such as the Wood White Butterfly
+(_Leptidia sinapis_) the Brimstone Butterfly (_Gonapteryx rhamm_), and
+the Purple Hair-streak (_Thecla quercus_). The small but handsome
+Ground-beetle, _Panogaeus crux-major_, is known in Ireland only from
+Finlough. This species has a typically "germanic" distribution in Great
+Britain. The Water-beetle _Pelobius Hermanni_, a very rare species, and
+the only British member of its family, occurs near Limerick and Cork.
+Cratloe Wood, by the Shannon near Limerick, may be specially recommended
+as a hunting-ground.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+SPORT.
+
+
+For sportsmen Ireland is a happy land, ready to supply their every want.
+Royal Meath, Kildare, Waterford, Tipperary, and Cork County are hunted
+by several good packs during-each season, and "the meets" are duly
+published in the local newspapers.
+
+In the large tracts of bog, moorland, river reaches, and mountain lands
+there is splendid shooting; in Kerry especially, where poaching is put
+down with a heavy hand, there are plenty of opportunities for sport.
+
+In most cases the hosts of the hotels have secured the shooting of many
+thousands of acres in their vicinity.
+
+When the weather is "hard," excellent sport can be had along the
+southern districts.
+
+The gentry most usually preserve their estates with great vigilance, but
+they are generous in giving permission to bona-fide sportsmen.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CYCLING]
+
+GENERAL HINTS
+
+(FROM MECREDY'S ROAD BOOK OF IRELAND.)
+
+
+June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Tourists will find
+the Royal Irish Constabulary the best source of information, and they
+cannot do better than inquire at the various police barracks on the way
+for advice as to places of interest to be visited, and the condition of
+the roads. In unfrequented country districts the footpaths as a rule may
+be taken with impunity, but it is never absolutely safe to do so. It is
+always well to enquire of other cyclists met _en route_. The roads are
+very variable, some being grand and others very bad. Intercourse with
+the peasantry will be found interesting and amusing. Nothing can exceed
+their civility and courtesy; and for those who are not too particular it
+will be found an excellent plan to lunch in their cottages, excellent
+tea, home-made bread, butter and eggs being procurable for 1/-per head.
+There is little use questioning them as to distances, however. They are
+nearly always wrong, and in any case they calculate in Irish miles--11
+Irish equal 14 English. The police, however, are reliable, and give the
+distances in statute miles. Repairers are few and far between, but the
+local blacksmiths are often clever and handy men. The by-roads are
+generally better than the main roads, and the surface is better at the
+edge than in the middle. The mountain roads are as a rule very good, and
+not nearly so hilly as one would expect. The country people are rather
+stupid about getting out of one's way, and live stock on the road are a
+frequent source of danger, especially pigs, sheep, donkeys, and Kerry
+cows. Mountain passes should be negotiated carefully, as mountain
+torrents sometimes sweep away short stretches of otherwise excellent
+roads, and one comes on these spots unexpectedly. The corners, too, are
+excessively sharp, and steep pitches occur unexpectedly.
+
+In most small Provincial towns the Hotels are not good, but in tourists'
+districts, such as Kerry, they are really excellent and the charges are
+reasonable. Where lodgings are required it is a good plan to ask the
+local Head Constable for advice.
+
+
+~CORK DISTRICT.~
+
+Cork is an excellent centre for cycling. The roads are in fair order and
+the inclines moderate. There is abundance of fine scenery, and notably
+in the extreme south and south-west where there are some entrancing
+tit-bits. Magnificent tracts of inland mountain scenery are to be found,
+and many important historical and archaeological ruins. There are hotels
+nearly everywhere within easy reach, many of them very good, and in most
+cases affording fair accommodation at reasonable cost.
+
+~One Day Tours from Cork.~
+
+No. 1.--To Queenstown, road 14 miles or rail 12 miles. Thence to East
+Ferry, 5 miles, cross the Ballinacurragh River by ferry. Thence by road
+to Midleton, 4 miles, back to Cork, road or rail, 12 miles. Fine views
+of the River Lee, Lough Mahon, the lovely Harbour of Queenstown,
+Ballinacurragh River, &c.
+
+No. 2.--To Youghal, road or rail, 27 miles. Thence by road to Ardmore, 6
+miles--a watering place with a ruined chapel where there are some
+curious carvings in stone, and a fine and perfect specimen of the old
+Irish round tower, Return same road.
+
+No. 3.--To Midleton, 12 miles, road or rail. Thence to Cloyne, 6 miles,
+where there is an ancient Cathedral still in use. Thence to Ballycotton,
+6 miles, a small watering place. Back by Cloyne and Aghada, on
+Queenstown Harbour, 12 miles. Thence by steamer to Queenstown, or across
+the East Ferry by road to Queenstown, 6 miles. Back by road or rail, 12
+miles.
+
+Hotels at Midleton, Cloyne, and Ballycotton.
+
+No. 4.--To Queenstown, road or rail, then by steamer, 20 minutes across
+the harbour to Crosshaven. Thence by road, 2 miles, to Church Bay. Fine
+view of mouth of the harbour and open Atlantic. Thence by Carrigaline
+and Douglas, back to Cork, 12 miles.
+
+Good hotels at Crosshaven and Church Bay.
+
+No. 5.--Cork to Blarney, by the Valley of the Lee and Carrigrohane, 9
+miles. Famous Castle of Blarney with the "Kissing Stone." The Groves of
+Blarney round the Castle may be seen, also St. Ann's Hydropathic
+establishment. Return by Rathpeacon and Blackpool to Cork, 6 miles.
+
+No. 6.--Cork to Dunkettle, 3 miles, road or rail, thence along the
+Glanmire River to Glanmire, 2 miles. Thence by Sallybrook and Kilcully,
+back to Cork, 6 miles.
+
+~Two Day Tours from Cork.~
+
+No. 1.--Cork to Macroom, road or rail, 25 miles. Thence to Inchigeela,
+10 miles, and Gougane Barra, 10 miles. Beautiful lake scenery, and the
+hermitage at Gougane Barra; a chapel on the Holy Lake is well worth
+seeing. The Pass of Keimaneigh is 3 miles further. From this point the
+traveller can return to sleep at Inchigeela or Macroom, where, at both
+places, there are good hotels; or may continue his journey to
+Glengarriff, Kenmare, or Killarney. If returning to Cork from Macroom,
+the journey may be made by Coachford and Dripsey, distance about 25
+miles.
+
+No. 2.--Cork to Bandon, 20 miles by rail or road. Thence to
+Courtmacsherry and the Old Head of Kinsale, each about 7 miles by road.
+The tourist can sleep at either place, and return to Cork by Kinsale and
+Innishannon, or continue his journey to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles by road or
+rail. Thence to Glengarriff, Killarney, &c.
+
+~Tours for Three or more Days from Cork.~
+
+No. 1.--Cork to Youghal, 28 miles by road or rail. Thence to Temple
+Michael, 3 miles along left bank of the River Blackwater, through
+Dromana to Cappoquin, 11 miles. From Cappoquin the Trappist Monastery of
+Mount Melleray, 3-1/2 miles, can be visited. Returning to Cappoquin the
+tourist can take either bank of the Blackwater, along a beautiful and
+level road to Lismore, 3-1/2 miles. The distance from Lismore to Fermoy
+is 16 miles by road or rail; the road along the Valley of the Blackwater
+being very fine throughout, and most picturesque. At Lismore the
+beautiful castle belonging to the Duke of Devonshire can be seen. The
+tourist can return from Fermoy to Mallow 16 miles, and thence to Cork,
+21 miles. Good hotels at Youghal, Lismore, Fermoy, and Mallow.
+
+No. 2.--Two day tour, No. 1, can be extended to three or more days, by
+proceeding from Inchigeela to Glengarriff, 23 miles, and Killarney, 39
+miles. Good hotels at Inchigeela, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney.
+
+Two day tour, No. 2, can be similarly extended to three or more days, by
+continuing the journey from Bandon to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles. Thence 10
+miles by road to Glengarriff, thence to Killarney, 39 miles. Good hotels
+at Bantry, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney. Or from Kenmare, 20
+miles, or from Glengarriff the tourist can ride to Parknasilla, 16 miles
+from Kenmare, where there is an excellent modern hotel and some of the
+loveliest scenery in Ireland.
+
+
+~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
+
+To the cyclist on tour, Limerick and the surrounding districts offer
+many scenic attractions in wood, lake, and river. The roads are not good
+as a rule, owing in a great measure, to the fact that the city is the
+centre of a large agricultural district. The hotels in the city are
+good, and in the surrounding towns and villages the tourist will find
+good accommodation in hotels and otherwise.
+
+~One Day Tours from Limerick.~
+
+No. 1.--Perhaps the easiest one day tour which the cyclist can enjoy
+from Limerick, as his head quarters, is to Doonass Falls _via_ Clonlara.
+Five miles thence by O'Brien's Bridge, 7 miles, to Killaloe, where an
+excellent lunch can be had. The return home can be made by
+Castleconnell, the popular resort of the devotees of "Izaak Walton,"
+where an excellent tea can be had at the Shannon Hotel.
+
+No. 2.--Castleconnell and Clare Glens, and lengthened visit to
+Castleconnell to view the waterfalls, "The World's End"--a remarkably
+fine reach of the River Shannon. There is much to interest the visitor
+in the gigantic eel fishery, and here also is the renowned Enright,
+whose fishing rods are used all over the world. The Clare Glen, situated
+by the way in Limerick county, is not far from Castleconnell; and if
+liberty is obtained beforehand, the Glenstal Demesne, seat of the
+Barrington family, can be visited. Sir Charles Barrington, the present
+baronet, has never yet refused permission to the cycling tourist to view
+the charming scenery surrounding the Glenstal Castle.
+
+No. 3.--Askeaton, 16-1/2 miles, splendid road, one of the best from
+Limerick; famous old abbey to be visited, with excellent fishing on the
+Deel, granted that the tourist has obtained the requisite permission.
+
+No. 4.--Adare, 9 miles; roads pretty good. Mr. P. Fitzgerald, J.P.,
+Agent to Lord Dunraven, should be written to beforehand for a permit to
+visit the demesne, where some fine old ruins are in an excellent state
+of preservation. The Manor House is a magnificent building, but
+visitors are only allowed to enter when the family are away. This is
+well known as the district which inspired Gerald Griffin to write one of
+his famous poems. Lunch can be had at very moderate terms at the
+Dunraven Arms Hotel. The demesne wall turns eastward to Croom. The name
+of this village is derived from the old war cry of the Geraldines,
+"Munster Branch "--_Crom-a-boo_. To Limerick, from Croom, _via_
+Patrick's Well, there is a pretty good road, 10 miles.
+
+~Two Days Tours from Limerick.~
+
+Ballybunion. Good roads generally, but slightly up-hill when the Kingdom
+is reached. This charming seaside resort is rapidly coming to rival
+Kilkee. It has splendid bathing accommodation, and the coast scenery and
+caves equal to those of any other watering place in Ireland. The visitor
+for the first time makes his acquaintance with the Lartique, or "Single
+Line," Railway--the only one in the United Kingdom--from Listowel to
+Ballybunion, a distance of 8 miles.
+
+Returning to Limerick, a digression can be made to Shanid Castle, near
+Shanagolden. This towering mass of masonry, perched high on a
+hill--three sides of which are precipitous--is almost ignored by
+tourists. It was one of the strongholds of the Desmonds. The other spots
+on the Shannon--homeward bound--are Glinn, where the hereditary Knight
+of Glin has his seat, and where Gerald Griffin resided in his young
+days, near the pretty little village of Loughill. Foynes and Foynes
+Island, seat of Sir Aubrey de Vere, will repay a visit. Hotels are good
+on this line, also roads.
+
+No. 2.--Waterford and Tramore. Decent roads and accommodation, as good
+as can be got once outside Limerick county, border at the Limerick
+Junction, a distance of 20 miles from the Treaty Stone. Splendid views
+of the Galtee ranges can be had, and on towards Clonmel the wooded
+slopes of the minor ranges and hills are a delightful picture. If time
+affords, the tourist can digress from the main road and visit the famous
+Glen of Aherlow. Back to Tipperary for lunch, good hotels, and splendid
+roads. Visit the Kickham monument, and then on to Clonmel. Excellent
+accommodation to be had at Clonmel. Next day Waterford and Tramore, and
+back.
+
+~Tours for Three or more Days from Limerick.~
+
+Ballybunion, Tarbert, Kilrush, Kilkee, Lisdoonvarna, from Ballybunion.
+See "No. 1 Day Tours." Tarbert is only a few miles from Ballybunion.
+There is a steamboat service across the Shannon estuary to Kilrush.
+Thence to Kilkee by road, where first night out can be had. Next day to
+Spanish Point, Milltownmalbay, Lisdoonvarna, to the famous "Spa"; home
+_via_ Ennis, splendid roads.
+
+No. 2.--Killaloe, Scariff, Portumna, and Upper Shannon. A most enjoyable
+trip can be had from Killaloe. See "No. 1 Day Tour." There is a constant
+steamboat service on Lough Derg, which will take a cyclist and his
+machine, and land him at Scariff--on the Clare side--or Portumna,
+"Galway." From either of these towns a tourist can have his chance of
+the most diversified lake and river scenery to be had in the kingdom.
+Without doubt the praises of Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon have not
+been sung sufficiently. From Portumna to Dromineer, on the Tipperary
+shore, by lake steamer, thence to Nenagh on bike; splendid roads home to
+Limerick, 27 miles.
+
+
+~KILLARNEY DISTRICT.~
+
+Killarney is an ideal centre for the cyclist. Good roads proceed in
+every direction, and mounted on his favourite machine the wheelman will
+be able to discover and investigate scenic treasures unknown to the
+ordinary tourist.
+
+~One Day Tours from Killarney.~
+
+No. 1.--Killarney to Gap of Dunloe, 10 miles; Owenreagh Glen, 18 miles;
+Windy Gap, 30 miles. Killarney, total, 36 miles. Care should be taken to
+keep on the proper road through the Glen; there are many crossings. Any
+of the local folk will point out the road.
+
+No. 2.--Killarney to Torc Waterfall, 3 miles; return to Muckross Hotel,
+4 miles; enter demesne at Dinis, 10 miles; on to Kenmare road and home
+to Killarney, 17 miles. The road through Muckross Demesne is in some
+places dangerous owing to its steep and winding character.
+
+No. 3.--Killarney to Ross Castle, 1-1/2 miles; through demesne to
+Library Point, 2-1/2 miles. Back through Ross Island and demesne to
+Mahony's Point, 9-1/2 miles; Killarney, 12-1/2 miles. This road is
+perfectly safe and good, except two descents in Ross Island. Returning
+from Mahony's Point to Killarney by Aghadoe, about 15 miles, splendid
+view of Lower Lake and mountains can be had from the old ruins of
+Aghadoe.
+
+No. 4.--Killarney to Glenflesk _via_ Lough Guittane. Visit Robbers' Den,
+9 miles, home _via_ Headford and Barraduff, 26 miles. Roads good,
+scenery wild and romantic. There are many short and beautiful trips
+which can be made in and about the neighbourhood.
+
+~Two Day Tours from Killarney.~
+
+No. 1.--Killarney to Windy Gap, 16 miles; thence to Parknasilla across
+mountain. Total, 30 miles. Remain for night at Southern Hotel,
+Parknasilla. Parknasilla to Kenmare, 14 miles, and back to Killarney
+_via_ Kilgarvan. Total, 35 miles. Roads fairly good, but in places very
+steep, so that riders must keep a careful watch.
+
+No. 2.--Killarney to Beaufort, 6 miles; thence to Glencar, 19 miles, and
+on to Caragh Lake Hotel, 27 miles. Remain at Caragh Lake Hotel for the
+night. Return to Killarney _via_ Windy Gap and Gerah Cross. There are
+some sharp turns and steep descents requiring care.
+
+~Tours for Three or more Days from Killarney.~
+
+No. 1.--Killarney to Kenmare, 20 miles. Thence by Glengarriff, 40 miles,
+to Macroom, _via_ Inchigeela, Pass of Keimaneigh to Millstreet, and back
+to Killarney. Hotels at Kenmare (Southern Hotel), Glengarriff,
+Inchigeela, Macroom, and Millstreet.
+
+No. 2.--Killarney to Killorglin. Caragh Lake, Cahirciveen, visit
+Valentia, Waterville, Parknasilla, Kenmare, and back to Killarney by
+either rail or road.
+
+
+~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~
+
+Waterford can be recommended as a cycling centre, as the scenery in many
+districts of the South-east of Ireland is beautiful in the extreme, and
+can compare favourably with any in the country, and the roads are first
+rate. The hotels, too, are generally very good, and have been improved
+wonderfully of late, and the tariffs have been so arranged by the
+South-eastern Branch of the Irish Cyclist Association, that all
+requirements of the most slender purse can be satisfactorily arranged.
+
+Below we sketch out a few very enjoyable Tours which can be made, taking
+Waterford as the starting point:--
+
+~First Tour from Waterford.~
+
+Leaving-Waterford by the Newtown-road, we pass the house in which Lord
+Roberts spent his early days, and where his father and mother lived for
+many years. This is actually in the Borough and, from the grounds
+surrounding it, a capital view of the river and part of the City can be
+had. After passing by Newtown we keep along to the left until Parkswood
+is reached, when we run under a bridge and up a hill to Checkpoint, and
+here a magnificent view can be obtained. From the hill overlooking this
+pretty little village seven counties can be seen. Dunbrody Abbey, one of
+the most famous ecclesiastical ruins in Ireland, is situated immediately
+opposite on the other side of the river. Duncannon Fort, a short
+distance from here, comes into view, and we are enabled to see the
+joining of the three rivers--Suir, Nore, and Barrow. We pass from
+Checkpoint, and we reach Passage, a famous fishing station since the
+herring industry has become so prosperous in this part of Ireland. A
+little further on is Woodstown, and right opposite on the far side of
+the river can be seen Duncannon Fort, a fortified place in the days of
+old. Turning to the right by Ballyglan, we mount a steep incline, and we
+then come in view of Hook Tower, a beacon light which is said to be the
+oldest in the kingdom. Dunmore, about five miles from Woodstown, is one
+of the most picturesque, beautiful, and delightful resorts in the whole
+of Ireland. Here there is a magnificent pier, and boating and fishing
+can be enjoyed to one's heart's content. Wheeling back in the Waterford
+direction we make for Tramore, ten miles away. It is beautifully
+situated, and the visitor here can spend several hours in viewing the
+most attractive scenery. Close to the town are the Golf Links and the
+Race Course.
+
+From Tramore to Waterford the run is over a splendid level road, and the
+distance seven miles.
+
+The full distance of this run is 33 miles, and at all the principal
+points capital hotel accommodation can be had.
+
+~Tour Two, from Waterford.~
+
+The first part of this run is to Passage. At the Half-way House take the
+turn over the bridge, up the hill and down a steep decline to Passage.
+At the latter place the ordinary ferryboat can be taken to Ballyhack,
+which is directly opposite. The run from Ballyhack to Duncannon is over
+a fairly surfaced road. At the latter place M'Gonnigal's hotel is well
+appointed. From Duncannon the run to the famous Hook Tower is about
+seven miles, and the surface of the road generally is very good. Along
+this run a splendid view of the Harbour can be obtained, and on the way
+there are several places of interest--Loftus Hall, the Irish seat of the
+Marquis of Ely, stands on the edge of the river unprotected by a single
+tree. It was modernised within the last 25 years, and is now a
+splendidly appointed mansion. Bag-an-Bun, a little distance off, will
+well repay a visit--the coast line at this point being the principal
+attraction. From Hook we run to Fethard, 6 miles to the left, and here
+a very pleasant hour can be spent. Tintern Abbey is the next point to be
+visited. This is one of the most famous Abbeys in the country. From
+Tintern to Dunbrody the distance is 8 miles, and here we can spend a
+considerable time in viewing the great historical ruin, said to be one
+of the finest in the whole of Ireland. Leaving Dunbrody we come to the
+ferry of Ballinlaw, and crossing here ride by Snow-hill and Bellview
+into Waterford. The full distance of this ride is 41 miles.
+
+~Tour Three from Waterford.~
+
+Proceeding up the Cork road we ride up Ballyaneeshagh Hill, and on the
+left see Butlerstown Castle, an ancient building: which, in the days of
+Cromwell, held out for sometime against his forces. At the Sweep we turn
+round to the right and run to the bottom of the hill. A little way from
+the end of the hill the right turn is to be taken again to Kilmeaden, 8
+miles. The ride then is to Portlaw four miles away. Some fifty years ago
+this town was the seat of a great cotton industry. It has since fallen
+into decay, and the place looks like Goldsmith's "Deserted Village."
+Just outside the town is the magnificent demesne of Curraghmore, said to
+be the finest in the three kingdoms. The variety of scenery here is
+almost unsurpassed. Curraghmore is the property of the Marquis of
+Waterford. It is one of the great points of vantage to tourists and
+pic-nic parties. Passing through the demesne we come to the house
+itself, a modern and rather unpretentious structure. The court-yard is,
+however, very large, and is said to be capable of accommodating close
+upon 100 horses. Clonegam Church, where Lord William Beresford, uncle to
+the present Marquis of Waterford, was laid to rest, can be seen on the
+right glistening in the trees on the hill side. Through Curraghmore we
+ride to Clonea, about 5 miles further on, and then to the foot of the
+Comeragh Mountains, which occupy a centre of the county, and which are
+to be seen from all parts, as well as from a considerable portion of
+Tipperary. The greatest natural curiosity in this range is the
+appearance and site of an almost circular lake, by name Coomshinawin.
+From Coomshinawin to Kilmacthomas the distance is about 8 miles.
+Kilmacthomas Woollen Factory may be visited, and a good hotel
+accommodation can be had at Walsh's. From Kilmacthomas to Waterford is
+16-1/2 miles over a good road, the full distance being 45 miles.
+
+~Tour Four, from Waterford.~
+
+Our next tour will be from Waterford, _via_ the Sweep, to Knockaderry, 9
+miles away. At the latter place there is a very fine lake which amply
+supplies the City. Leaving Knockaderry we reach Dunhill, close to which
+place is the Castle of Donile, still distinguished for its peculiar and
+romantic situation, and in ancient times the property of De-La-Poer,
+from whom the present Marquis is descended. The village of Annestown,
+distant about one mile, is on the sea coast, and from it a magnificent
+view of rock and ocean scenery can be had. The run from Annestown to
+Tramore is over a beautiful road, and many pretty views of the coast can
+be seen. The spin to Waterford completes this tour, which is one of
+nearly thirty miles.
+
+~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 1.~
+
+Waterford, Dunmore, Annestown, Bonmahon, Stradbally, and Dungarvan.
+
+FIRST DAY.
+
+This is rather a long run of 47 miles, but as the roads are generally
+good and the scenery delightful it should be most enjoyable to the
+Cyclist who may feel in good form. We have already spoken of Annestown.
+From Annestown to Bonmahon the distance is over 5 miles. The road is
+very hilly, but the surface is splendid. At Bonmahon the once famous
+Knockmahon Mines are situated. These mines were the most valuable in the
+country about fifty years ago, but when the value of the metal (copper)
+fell operations were discontinued. Stradbally, 4 miles further on, is a
+delightful little village, said to be the most health-restoring place on
+the south-eastern coast. Here Whelan's Hotel is recommended. Dungarvan
+is 8 miles further on, and the road by the sea is well surfaced and very
+picturesque. At Dungarvan Lawlor's Hotel will be found very comfortable.
+
+SECOND DAY.
+
+A good run can be taken through Ardmore, Youghal, Lismore, and
+Cappoquin, part of which tour embraces the delightful Valley of the
+Blackwater. This complete run will tot about 50 miles.
+
+At Ardmore a very comfortable hotel is kept by Miss Prendergast. At
+Youghal, the Greenpark Hotel is a capital one. In Lismore, the
+Devonshire Arms and Blackwater Vale Hotels are recommended; and Kenny's
+at Cappoquin is also a good one.
+
+~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 2.~
+
+FIRST DAY.
+
+Piltown to Curraghmore, round by Coomshinawin. This complete run will be
+about 40 miles. The roads generally are capital, and the scenery as fine
+as can be seen in this part of the country.
+
+SECOND DAY.
+
+From Dungarvan, round by Ballymacarbery, Newcastle, Ardfinan, Clogheen,
+Melleray Abbey, to Dungarvan. This ride runs close upon 60 miles, and
+to undertake it the tourist must have been in cycling form for a
+considerable time. The roads, however, are generally very good.
+Ballymacarbery is 15 miles from Dungarvan; Ardfinan, about 26; then from
+Ardfinan to Clogheen the ride is 6 miles, and from that to Melleray
+about 13. At Melleray, from the Abbey, a grand view can be had of some
+of the most beautiful scenery in the whole of the county.
+
+The following are the best places of refreshment _en
+route_:--Ballymacarbery (Miss Power's), Newcastle, and Ardfinan. Two
+good licensed houses. Clogheen--The Hotel. Melleray--The traveller will
+always be hospitably received here.
+
+~Three or more Day Tours from Waterford. No. 1.~
+
+Waterford, Dunmore, 11; Tramore, 22; Dunhill, 27; Annestown, 28;
+Bonmahon, 34; Stradbally, 38; and Dungarvan, 47 miles.
+
+SECOND AND THIRD DAYS
+
+To Dungarvan--have been previously referred to.
+
+Instead of returning to Waterford by rail, the tourist on the
+fourth day may enjoy a most entertaining tour, _via_ the Pike,
+Coomshinawin--previously referred to--Curraghmore, Piltown, and
+Waterford. This run measures something like 40 miles.
+
+~Three or more Day Tours from Waterford, No. 2.~
+
+Waterford, Mullinavat, 8; Ballyhack, 16; Stoneyford, 21; Danesfort, 25;
+Kilkenny, 30; Thomastown, 40; and Inistioge, 47-1/2 miles.
+
+SECOND DAY.
+
+New Ross, 10; Waterford, 33; and Rosslare, 42 miles.
+
+THIRD DAY.
+
+Lady's Island, 4; Kilmore, 11; Fethard, 20; Hooktower, 26; Duncannon,
+35; and Waterford, 46 miles.
+
+This latter tour embraces some of the finest scenery on the
+south-eastern coast, and the inland scenery at Inistioge is equal to any
+to be seen in any part of Ireland.
+
+
+_IMPORTANT NOTE._
+
+The tariffs for Members of the Irish Cyclists' Association and Cyclists'
+Touring-Club are at most of the hotels in the south-eastern districts:--
+
+Breakfast.--Tea, coffee, or cocoa, with bread and butter, toast and
+preserve, ham and eggs, chops, steaks, cold meat, or fish, _2s._
+Substantial Luncheon, _1s. 6d._ Table d'Hote Dinner, 2_s._ 6_d._ Bed,
+_2s. 6d._
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: CYCLING]
+
+~SLIGO DISTRICT.~
+
+(FROM MECREDY'S ROAD BOOK).
+
+
+~One Day Tour from Sligo. No. 1.~
+
+Sligo, Dromahaire, 12; Ballysadare, 24; Knockanree Glen, 28; Sligo, 33.
+
+Keeping along the north shore of the lake, Hazlewood Park, 2 miles from
+Sligo, is well worth visiting. The public are admitted, and the tourist
+should ride right down to the shore, which is here very beautiful. The
+road now winds over the hills, and is undulating with fairly good but
+rather loose surface, and it is some miles until the lake is reached
+again. The scene here is indescribably beautiful, and reminds one
+forcibly of Killarney. The lake is studded with islands, and the shores
+are densely wooded, whilst northwards extends one of the most
+fascinating districts we have ever toured in. It consists of a regular
+jumble of mountains, densely wooded, and often most precipitous. The
+gapes of the hills are extremely picturesque, and the scene can be
+revisited time and again without its palling. Those who would like to
+thoroughly explore this lovely neighbourhood should stop at Dromahaire,
+where they will find a most excellent hotel, remarkable alike for
+moderate charges and a cuisine which could not be surpassed. There is
+also an ancient abbey here, well worthy of inspection. Dromahaire is
+some little distance from the lake, and on leaving it the road, now
+excellent, winds round a mountain, and a few miles farther, after taking
+a sharp turn to the right, reaches the lake shore again at its
+southern-most point. Farther on it branches inland again, and at a point
+2 miles from Sligo a sharp turn to the left has to be taken for
+Ballysadare, and if time permits the tourist might proceed on through
+Collooney to Mackree Castle (3 miles), which will mean an addition of 6
+miles to the day's ride. At Ballysadare there are some really beautiful
+waterfalls. Retracing your steps towards Sligo for a short distance,
+proceed along the north shore of Ballysadare Bay. The road is good.
+Presently it begins to ascend a spur of Knockanree Hill, and a narrow
+lane and gate to the right admit to the Glen of the same name. It should
+on no account be missed. It is one of the most extraordinary natural
+phenomenon we have ever seen, and is exceedingly beautiful besides. It
+is very narrow, densely wooded, and the sides are quite precipitous. The
+path wanders through a wealth of undergrowth, and in most places we
+fancy the Glen is not forty feet wide, while here and there it is much
+narrower. In some of these spots the foliage actually meets overhead,
+and we noticed in one place a fallen tree had made a natural bridge
+across. Just at the beginning of the Glen there is a little glade where
+a house once stood.
+
+Keeping-round Knockanree Hill the road comes out on the shore of Sligo
+Bay. The surface is excellent, and the scenery pretty right into Sligo.
+
+~One Day Tour from Sligo. No. 2.~
+
+Sligo, Drumcliff, 5; Carney, 7; Lissadill House, 9; Carney, 11;
+Drumcliff, 13; Rathcormack Chapel, 14; Glencar, 18-1/2; Manorhamilton,
+27, Sligo, 41.
+
+The road is indifferent for some miles, but gradually improves. At
+Drumcliff there is an interesting round tower. Lissadill House is
+delightfully situated on the seashore. The grounds are open to the
+public, and it is a very pleasant ride through on the well-kept avenues.
+
+Retracing your steps to the main road, after passing Rathcormack Chapel,
+turn off to the left for Glencar, along a fairly level by-road, with
+fast, but stony, surface. After 2 miles turn to the left again. In due
+course Glencar is reached. Keeping along the north shore of the lake an
+extraordinary waterfall will be seen on the left. A thin sheet of water
+falls from the top of the cliff, and when the wind is from a particular
+quarter it catches the falling water every few minutes, and scattering
+it in minute particles makes it have the appearance of being suddenly
+cut off. Then all of a sudden it comes with a rush again, and apparently
+with renewed vigour. It is a very strange phenomenon, and fascinating
+withal.
+
+Wheeling along the shores of the lake we come to a larger waterfall at
+the extreme extremity, to which our measurement of 18-1/2 miles is
+taken. There is a fine volume of water here, and the neighbourhood being
+well wooded, gives a pretty effect. A cup of tea can be had at Mr.
+Siberry's, hard by.
+
+From this on to Manorhamilton the road, though good, is uninteresting,
+but if time presses the cyclist can ride direct back to Sligo, round
+Glencar Lake. By adopting this route, however, some beautiful scenery
+will be missed, and we should strongly advise following what is known as
+the old road from Manorhamilton to Sligo (14). Unless a meal is required
+it is better not to go as far as Manorhamilton, but to turn to the
+right, 1-1/2 miles out. This will reduce the day's journey by 3 miles.
+From this turn there is a stiff climb of 2 miles, but the surface is
+good the entire way. At the top of this incline a grand prospect bursts
+on the view. A confusion of miniature mountains, densely wooded, extend
+in every direction, while, as we descend, the waters of Lough Gill come
+into view beneath.
+
+A short distance from the summit the road forks. To the right leads to
+Sligo, while the turn to the left runs direct to the lake's shores, and
+then joins the other road some miles farther on. Both routes lead
+through beautiful scenery. The first is the shortest, but the second the
+prettiest.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: GOLFING]
+
+
+~DUBLIN DISTRICT.~
+
+There are a number of splendid Golf Courses round Dublin, but on the
+Dublin District lines of the Great Southern and Western Railway the only
+courses open to visitors are the following:--
+
+~Tullamore.~
+
+The course is of the inland description, and the period of play is from
+October to June. The hazards consist of hedges, ditches, and whins, &c.,
+which are well distributed. Visitors, _5s._ per month.
+
+~Athlone.~
+
+Visitors, _2s. 6d._ per week, _5s._ per month, 9 holes; Par score, 74.
+
+The length of the course is about 1-1/2 miles, and the grass is never
+long. The greens are not large, and the lies are somewhat heavy.
+Straight play is necessary to avoid heavy punishment. The course is
+beautifully situated and commands fine views of the Shannon and Lough
+Ree.
+
+~Banagher.~
+
+The course is situated 1/2 a mile out of the Town, and commands fine
+views of the distant hills. The distance round is about 1 mile. The
+grass is short, and the hazards consist of ruins, walls, and fences.
+Number of holes, 9.
+
+~Birr.~
+
+Visitors, _2s. 6d._ per week. Number of holes, 9.
+
+The course is situated 2-1/2 miles from Birr. The holes are of a very
+sporting character, the hazards being numerous and varied, consisting of
+rocks, hedges, walls, and running water. The grass is short and wiry,
+and good lies are obtained.
+
+
+~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
+
+~Lehinch.~
+
+Visitors, _5s._ per week, or _1s. 6d._ per day. Number of holes 18. Par
+score, 81.
+
+The course is laid over fine natural Golfing country. The lies are good,
+as the soil is sandy with very short sea grass. The hazards consist of
+natural sand bunkers and sandhills with bent, and are ideal. The greens
+are excellent, and there probably is not in the United Kingdom a finer
+natural Golf Links.
+
+Accommodation at Lehinch Golf Links Hotel and Aberdeen Arms. There are
+some lodges to be had, capable of accommodating small families. Golfers'
+cheap tickets are issued to Members and Visitors at Kingsbridge, Dublin,
+Limerick, and other stations.
+
+~Adare Manor Club.~
+
+Play on this course is confined to Members. Members can introduce a
+Visitor for a few days, but the Links are not open to paying Visitors.
+Number of holes, 9.
+
+This is a very nice course, laid out in the demesne at Adare; the lies
+are perfect, and the greens small and well kept.
+
+~Killaloe.~
+
+Number of holes, 9.
+
+Accommodation, the Lakeside Hotel. The Links are situated about 1 mile
+from the Lakeside Hotel, and comprise a very nice sporting course. The
+hazards are varied, and the lies excellent.
+
+
+~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~
+
+Tramore.
+
+Visitors, _2s. 6d._ per week. Number of holes, 18.
+
+The course is a seaside one, and commands magnificent views of the bay.
+The grass is crisp and short, and the soil sandy.
+
+Accommodation at Grand Hotel and Hibernian Hotel.
+
+~Lismore.~
+
+Visitors, _2s. 6d._ per week; _5s._ per month. Number of holes, 9.
+
+High pastures interspersed with natural bunkers consisting of quarries,
+gorse, ridges, and roads. The greens are moderate, but the play through
+the course is very sporting.
+
+Accommodation at Devonshire Arms Hotel and Blackwater Vale Hotel.
+
+
+~CORK DISTRICT.~
+
+~Littleisland (on G.S. & W.R., 4-3/4 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors, _1s._ per day; or _5s._ per week, on application to Secretary.
+Par score, 74 for 18 holes.
+
+Fine grass of a down nature. Hazards, banks, roads, etc., requiring
+skilled play. Greens in first-rate order. Beautiful scenery. Handsome
+pavilion, with every accommodation. Professional attendant.
+
+~Youghal (on G.S. & W R., 27 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors, easy Terms by week or month.
+
+Number of holes, 6 at present.
+
+Seaside course. Good turf. Hazards, water, land, peat banks. Owing to
+inroads of the sea, ground has been greatly limited; but will be
+extended, when works now in progress are completed.
+
+~Mallow (on G.S, & W.R., 21 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors staying with Members free for one week; _2s. 6d._ weekly
+afterwards. Living at hotels, _5s._ first week; _2s. 6d._ afterwards.
+
+Number of holes, 9; Par score, 36.
+
+Pasture land, limestone bed. Hazards: fences, ditches, roads, a large
+quarry, grass grown. Greens in first-rate order. Good pavilion. Tea
+three times a week free. Grass grows too long for summer play.
+
+~Bandon (on C.B. and S.C.R., 20 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors free, if introduced by a Member.
+
+Number of holes, 9.
+
+The turf is composed of short grass. The distance between the holes
+varies from 120 to 360 yards, and the hazards are stone walls, etc.
+
+~Clonakilty (on C.B. and S.C.R., 29-1/4 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors, _2s. 6d._ per month; or _10s._ per annum.
+
+Number of holes, 9.
+
+Finely situated; commanding extensive views of surrounding: landscape.
+The course is all grass; rather long-for summer play, but first-rate
+from October to May. The hazards are stone walls and ditches.
+
+~Rushbrooke (on G.S. & W.R., 10-1/2 miles from Cork).~
+
+Visitors residing with Members free for fourteen days. Committee can
+elect temporary Members for a month, on payment of _5s._ Number of
+holes, 9.
+
+Grass on hill, fine view, good pavilion. Greens in good order. Long
+hazards.
+
+
+~SLIGO DISTRICT.~
+
+~Bundoran.~
+
+Station--Bundoran, on G.N.R.
+
+Hotels--The Great Northern Railway, Sweeney's, Hamilton's, etc.
+
+Visitors--_10s._ per month, _5s._ per week. Ladies half price.
+
+Number of holes--9. Par score--75.
+
+The course is partly sandy, and partly inland in character. It is finely
+situated, and commands views of the Atlantic and the mountain ranges.
+The distance round is about 1-1/2 miles, and the holes vary in length
+from 100 to 250 yards. The hazards consist of a cliff, sandbanks, pits,
+stone walls, and water.
+
+~Sligo.~
+
+Station--Sligo, thence by car or steamer. During the season public cars
+and a steamer run four times daily between Sligo and the course; fare,
+_6d._ each way.
+
+Hotels--In Sligo there are good hotels, and good accommodation at
+Ross's.
+
+Visitors--_1s._ per day, _2s. 6d._ per week (if introduced); not
+introduced _5s._ per week, _15s._ per month.
+
+Number of holes, 9. Amateur record, 84.
+
+The air and scenery at the Links are splendid. The grass is ideal turf.
+The distance round is 1-1/2 miles. The hazards are natural sand bunkers,
+broken ground, bent, walls, etc. The lies are good.
+
+
+~GALWAY~
+
+~Galway.~
+
+Visitors, _5s._ per week. Number of holes, 9.
+
+Accommodation at the Railway, Mack's, and Leane's Hotels.
+
+The Salt Hill tram brings the golfer within a mile of the Links, which
+are situated on a hill running out into the sea.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: FISHING]
+
+
+DUBLIN DISTRICT.
+
+River.--Liffey. Station.--Lucan, on Great Southern and Western Railway,
+6-3/4 miles from Dublin. Accommodation at Spa Hotel. Salmon and trout
+free.
+
+River.--Liffey. Station.--Hazelhatch, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 10 miles from Dublin. Hotel accommodation good. Salmon and
+trout free.
+
+River.--Liffey. Station.--Sallins, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 18 miles from Dublin. Accommodation at Healy's Hotel. Splendid
+trout fishing free.
+
+River.--Liffey. Station.--Harristown, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 25-1/2 miles from Dublin. Hotel accommodation at Ballymore
+Eustace and Poulaphouca. Splendid trout fishing at Kilcullen: at
+Ballymore Eustace by permission of Mr. John Royce, Stonebrooke House.
+
+River.--Slaney. Station.--Rathvilly, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 47 miles from Dublin. Hotel accommodation moderate. Trout
+fishing free.
+
+River.--Barrow. Station.--Bagnalstown, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 66 miles from Dublin. Accommodation at Ward's Hotel. Salmon and
+trout free.
+
+River.--Slaney. Station.--Baltinglass, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 42 miles from Dublin. Accommodation good. Trout fishing free.
+
+River.--Shannon. Station.--Banagher, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 84 miles from Dublin. Accommodation good. Splendid salmon and
+trout fishing free.
+
+River.--Barrow. Station.--Monasterevan, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 37 miles from Dublin. Trout, perch, and pike free.
+
+River.--Shannon. Station--Athlone on Great Southern and Western Railway,
+80 miles from Dublin. Hotel accommodation good. Salmon, trout, pike, and
+perch free.
+
+
+~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
+
+River.--Maigue. Station.--Croom, on Great Southern and Western Railway.
+Accommodation at Croom Hotel and Maigue View Hotel. Salmon, trout, and
+pike fishing by permission of the owners.
+
+River.--Mulcair. Station.--Dromkeen, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 11 miles from Limerick. Accommodation good. Salmon and trout in
+abundance, free.
+
+Rivers.--Shannon, Maigue, Camoge. Station.--Patrickswell, on the Great
+Southern and Western Railway, 6 miles from the Shannon, 1-1/2 miles from
+the Maigue, and 4 miles from the Camoge. Accommodation.--Good lodgings
+and small hotel. Salmon and trout in the Maigue, and in Shannon and
+Camoge very fine trout. There are small tributaries which afford very
+good trout fishing free.
+
+River.--Shannon. Station.--Killaloe, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 15 miles from Limerick. Accommodation at Lakeside Hotel, Royal
+Hotel, Shannon View Hotel, Grace's Hotel, Lough Derg Hotel, and Hurley's
+Hotel. Salmon and trout. The fishing is excellent. During the past few
+seasons salmon varying from 20 to 40 lbs. have been taken by anglers.
+About 400 yards below and 20 yards above the bridge is a free stretch of
+salmon and trout water, where the catches compare favourably with those
+on preserved waters. Fishings may be hired for a month or longer.
+
+River.--Shannon. Station.--Castleconnell, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 9 miles from Limerick. Accommodation good. Castleconnell has a
+high reputation as an angling centre. Salmon fishing may be rented by
+the month, fortnight, week, or day, and the district is noted for the
+heavy fish taken. Trout, pike, and perch fishing is free.
+
+River.--Deel. Station.--Rathkeale, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 19 miles from Limerick. Accommodation at Pigott Arms, Eagle
+Hotel, and Hibernian Hotel. Good brown trout fishing, particularly in
+early months of the season--April, May, and June. Also salmon fishing
+by payment of ordinary licence.
+
+River.--Maigue. Station--Adare, on Great Southern and Western Railway.
+Accommodation at Dunraven Arms Hotel. Trout and salmon, permission from
+Mr. P. Fitzgerald, Agent, Adare.
+
+Rivers.--Brosna and Shannon. Station.--Birr, on Great Southern and
+Western Railway. Accommodation at Dooley's and Mathew's Hotels. Other
+private lodgings to be had in the town. Trout and salmon free.
+
+River.--Shannon. Station.--Nenagh, on the Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Good hotels at Dromineer and Nenagh. Splendid salmon and trout
+fishing.
+
+River.--Mulcair. Station.--Boher, on the Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Good salmon and trout fishing free.
+
+
+~CORK DISTRICT.~
+
+Salmon fishing is as a rule strictly preserved.
+
+Trout fishing is everywhere plentiful, and as a rule free.
+
+Rivers.--Lee, Sullane, Bride, &c. Station.--Macroom, on Cork and Macroom
+Railway, 25 miles from Cork. Accommodation at four or five small hotels;
+moderate. Salmon and trout.
+
+River.--Blackwater. Station.--Mallow, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 21 miles from Cork. Hotel accommodation good at the Royal
+Hotel, Central Hotel, and others. Salmon and trout.
+
+River.--Bandon. Station.--Bandon, on Cork, Bandon, and South Coast
+Railway, 20 miles from Cork. Accommodation.--Moderate; Angel Hotel,
+Railway Hotel, and Devonshire Arms. Good salmon and trout.
+
+River.--Dripsey. Station.--Dripsey, on Muskerry Railway, 10 miles from
+Cork. Accommodation.--None nearer than St. Ann's Hydropathic, Blarney,
+or Cork. Salmon and trout.
+
+River.--Bandon. Upton, on Cork, Bandon, and South Coast Railway, 15-1/2
+miles from Cork. Accommodation.--None nearer than Bandon. Good salmon
+and trout.
+
+River.--Ballylechy. Station.--Bantry, on Cork, Bandon, and South Coast
+Railway, 57-3/4 miles from Cork. Good accommodation at Vickery's,
+Railway, and Terminus Hotels. Salmon and trout.
+
+
+~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~
+
+River.--Blackwater. Station.--Kilmacow, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 4-1/2 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at Farmell's Hotel.
+Trout fishing free.
+
+River.--Blackwater. Station.--Mullinavat, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 7-3/4 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at M'Donald's and
+Healy's Hotels. Trout free.
+
+Rivers.--Nore, Arigilla, Jerpoint Brook. Station--Thomastown, on Great
+Southern and Western Railway, 20 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at
+Globe Hotel, Commercial Hotel, Hibernian Hotel. Small portion of Nore
+free. Arigilla River and Jerpoint Brook free.
+
+River.--Nore. Station.--Bennettsbridge on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 25 miles from Waterford. Accommodation.--None nearer than
+Kilkenny or Thomastown. Salmon and trout; partly free.
+
+River--Blackwater. Station.--Lismore, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 43 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at Devonshire Arms Hotel
+and Blackwater View Hotel. Salmon and trout. Charges for salmon rod
+fishing.--For season, _L2_; for one week, _15s._; for one day, _5s._
+
+River.--Blackwater. Station--Cappoquin, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 39 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at three hotels, also
+private accommodation. Salmon and trout.
+
+River.--Mahon. Station.--Kilmacthomas, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 15 miles from Waterford. Accommodation at E. J. Walsh's and P.
+Cullinan's. Salmon and trout, free.
+
+
+~KILLARNEY DISTRICT.~
+
+River.--Flesk. Station.--Killarney. Accommodation at Killarney. Trout
+and salmon free by permission of Lord Kenmare.
+
+River.--Eirk. Station.--Killarney; thence by car 7 miles. Accommodation
+at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+River.--Erhagh. Station.--Killarney; thence by car 6-1/2 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout; permission required.
+
+
+~SLIGO DISTRICT.~
+
+River.--Ballysadare. Station.--Ballysadare, on Midland Great Western
+Railway. Hotels at Sligo and Ballysadare. Salmon and sea trout
+preserved, also brown trout, for which permission can be had.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: LAKE FISHING]
+
+
+~DUBLIN DISTRICT.~
+
+Lake.--Lough Ree, Station.--Athlone, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 80 miles from Dublin. Hotel accommodation good. Salmon, trout,
+pike, and perch free.
+
+
+~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
+
+Lake.--Lough Derg. Station.--Nenagh, on the Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Accommodation at Lough Derg Hotel, Miss Mill's Private Hotel,
+O'Meara's Hotel, Nenagh, and Hibernian Hotels. Some good trout and
+salmon fishing; some by permission, and some fishings may be hired.
+
+Lake.--Inchiquin Lake. Station.--Corofin, on West Clare Railway, 33
+miles from Limerick. Accommodation at Lake Hotel. Famous for trout
+fishing.
+
+Station.--Croom, on Great Southern and Western Railway. Lakes.--Tony
+Hill Lake, 1-1/2 miles from Croom, and Loughgor Lake, 7 miles from
+Croom. Accommodation at Croom Hotel and Maigue View Hotel. Pike free by
+permission of owners.
+
+Lake.--Lough Derg. Station.--Killaloe, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 15 miles from Limerick. Hotel accommodation excellent. Lough
+Derg is one of the prettiest pieces of water in Ireland, it is within
+ten minutes row of Killaloe, and the trout fishing is about the best in
+the United Kingdom. In favourable weather large baskets of trout are
+taken, and the fish weigh from 1 lb. to 7 lbs. Pike and perch also
+abound in the lake, the former grows very large.
+
+
+~CORK DISTRICT.~
+
+There is a chain of lakes near Inchigeela (Lake Allan and Gougane Barra)
+where some salmon and pike fishing may be had. There is also a small
+lake near Bruff (Loch Ghur) where trout, pike, etc., may be killed; also
+there are small lakes near Bantry well stocked with trout, &c.
+
+Lake.--Inchigeela. Station.--Macroom, on Cork and Macroom Railway, 25
+miles from Cork. Good hotel, provided with boats, fishermen, etc. Pike
+and trout free.
+
+Lake.--Loch Ghur. Station.--Kilmallock, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, 42 miles from Cork. Good accommodation at O'Sullivan's Hotel.
+Pike and trout free.
+
+
+~KILLARNEY DISTRICT.~
+
+Killarney for the Angler is a paradise. He can fish a different stream
+or lake every day for a month or longer. The best fishing season is
+March, April, May, and September. Close season, November to February.
+
+Lakes.--Lakes of Killarney, Lough Leane, Muckross Lake, the Long Range,
+Upper Lake. Station.--Killarney, thence by car. Accommodation at
+Killarney. Trout and salmon. Licence required for salmon, cost <i>20s.</i>
+
+Lake.--Guitane. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 5 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown and red trout free.
+
+Lake.--Looscannagh. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 10-1/2 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout, etc., free.
+
+Lake.--Glas Lake. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 5 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout, etc., free.
+
+Lake.--Gourggh. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 9 miles, walk two
+more. Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+Lake.--Cushvalley. Station.--Killarney, thence by car about 8 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+Lake.--Garagarry. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 6 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+Lake.--Cummeenduff. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 13 miles through
+Gap of Dunloe. Accommodation at Killarney. Amply stocked with trout
+free.
+
+Lake.--Curraghmore. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 15 miles.
+Accommodation at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+Lake.--Augur. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 9 miles. Brown trout
+free.
+
+Lake.--Callee. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 8 miles. Accommodation
+at Killarney. Fine stock of trout free.
+
+Lake.--Managh. Station.--Killarney, thence by car 6 miles. Accommodation
+at Killarney. Brown trout free.
+
+
+~SLIGO DISTRICT.~
+
+Lake.--Lough Gill. Station.--Sligo, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway, thence by car 3 miles. Good hotel accommodation at Sligo.
+Salmon, white and brown trout and pike free, by permission, which may be
+obtained without difficulty.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: SHOOTING]
+
+
+~DUBLIN DISTRICT.~
+
+Station.--Lucan, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 6-3/4 miles from
+Dublin. Accommodation at Spa hotel. Rough shooting by permission of
+owners.
+
+Station.--Athlone, on Great Southern and Western Railway. 80 miles from
+Dublin. Good hotels. Wild fowl shooting on River Shannon and Lough Ree
+free.
+
+Station.--Monasterevan, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 37 miles
+from Dublin. Good hotels. Rough shooting free along the River Barrow.
+
+Station.--Banagher, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 84 miles from
+Dublin. Good hotel. Wild fowl very plentiful along Rivers Shannon and
+Brosna, free.
+
+Station.--Dunlavin, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 32 miles from
+Dublin. Good hotel. Rough shooting free.
+
+Station.--Rathvilly, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 47 miles
+from Dublin. Good hotel. Snipe and duck fairly abundant, free.
+
+
+~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
+
+Station.--Croom, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 11 English miles
+from Limerick. Accommodation at Croom Hotel and Murgue View Hotel.
+Rabbits, plover, snipe, duck, at Tory Hill, by permission of owner of
+land.
+
+Station.--Dromkeen, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 11 miles from
+Limerick. Accommodation good. Snipe, duck, plover; free.
+
+Station.--Castleconnell, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 9 miles
+from Limerick. Accommodation good. Wild fowl; shooting on the river.
+
+Station.--Patrickswell, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 7 miles
+from Limerick. Accommodation at Patrickswell Hotel or Dunraven Arms,
+Adare. Geese, duck, widgeon, teal, snipe, and cock; by permission of Mr.
+Peter Fitzgerald, J.P., Mondela House.
+
+Station.--Rathkeale, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 19 miles
+from Limerick. Accommodation at Pigott Arms and Eagle Hotel. Good duck
+shooting; free.
+
+Station.--- Killaloe, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 15 miles
+from Limerick. Accommodation excellent. In winter Lough Derg is visited
+by large quantities of wild fowl, which afford capital sport; and the
+bogs and marshes around Killaloe hold snipe in fair numbers.
+
+
+~CORK DISTRICT.~
+
+There is excellent wild fowl shooting all along the sea coasts, and
+along the rivers for a few miles from the sea. The Youghal coast, the
+Lower Lee, Blackwater, and Bandon Rivers, afford excellent sport of this
+kind; also the deeply indented coasts of Kinsale, Courtmacsherry,
+Skibbereen, and Baltimore.
+
+Station.--Bandon, 20 miles from Cork, on South Coast Railway.
+Accommodation fair at the Angel and Devonshire Arms. Snipe, wild fowl,
+and plover; free.
+
+Station.--Blarney, 5 miles from Cork, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Accommodation excellent at St. Ann's Hydropathic Establishment.
+Snipe and plover fairly abundant; free.
+
+Station.--Clonakilty, 33 miles from Cork, on Cork, Bandon, and South
+Coast Railway. Accommodation fairly good at Imperial or Shannon Arms.
+Snipe and plover; free.
+
+Station.--Mitchelstown, miles from Cork, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Accommodation fair at Ahearn's or Fitzgerald's. Snipe and
+plover may be had on the slopes of Kilworth Hills, by permission of
+Officer Commanding Kilworth Camp.
+
+Station.--Kinsale, 24 miles from Cork, on Cork, Bandon, and South Coast
+Railway. Accommodation good at Kinsale Arms or Sea View Hotels. Wild
+fowl mostly preserved, but permission may be had.
+
+Station.--Skibbereen, 53-3/4 miles from Cork, on Cork, Bandon, and South
+Coast Railway. Accommodation fair at Commercial, Eldon, and Ilen Valley
+Hotels. Duck, teal, widgeon, snipe, and plover; free.
+
+Station.--Youghal, 26-3/4 miles from Cork, on Great Southern and Western
+Railway. Accommodation good at Adelphi, Devonshire Arms, Green Park,
+Imperial, and Strand Hotels. Wild fowl very plentiful along the sea
+coast and at mouth of Blackwater; free.
+
+
+~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~
+
+Station.--Horse and Jockey, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 48
+miles from Waterford. Accommodation at Thurles, about 4 miles distant.
+Grouse, hares, duck, &c., &c., in Liskeveen Bogs, by permission of D. J.
+Mansergh, Esq., Grallagh Castle, Thurles.
+
+Station.--Ballyhale, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 15 miles
+from Waterford. Accommodation at Mrs. Hayes, Knocktopher Hotel,
+Thomastown. Rough shooting to be had at Courisk and Castlecasker Bogs,
+about 1 mile from the station, in the direction of Innistiogue, but game
+not plenty, being a common; this would be free. A preserve at
+Knocktopher. For permission apply to Captain Langrishe. A preserve at
+Castlemorris. For permission apply to Rev. Wm. D'Montmorency,
+Castlemorris. Applications as to payment and otherwise should be made to
+above-mentioned gentlemen.
+
+Station.--Attanagh, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 45 miles from
+Waterford. Accommodation at Griffith's Hotel, Durrow. About 1,000 acres,
+almost adjoining station; duck, rabbit, snipe, woodcock; free, if with
+permission of occupiers (tenant farmers).
+
+Station.--Kilmacthomas, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 15 miles
+from Waterford. Accommodation at E. J. Walsh's Hotel. There is no
+preserved ground in this vicinity, on which permission is given to
+shoot; snipe are fairly plentiful on surrounding bogs, and this is about
+all the shooting there is. By permission of Charles Mansfield,
+Kilmacthomas, and P. Power, Faithlegg, Waterford.
+
+Station.--Durrow, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 22 miles from
+Waterford. Accommodation at Whelan's and Riley's Hotels. Waterfowl;
+grey and green plover; also duck and snipe, rabbits, &c., by permission
+of farmers.
+
+Station.--Lismore, on Great Southern and Western Railway. Accommodation
+at Devonshire Arms Hotel and Blackwater Vale Hotel. Partridge, grouse,
+woodcock. Permission to be obtained from James Penrose, Esq., Lismore
+Castle.
+
+Station.--Carrick, on Great Southern and Western Railway. Accommodation
+at Bessborough Arms and Kirwan's Hotels. Duck, rabbits, rooks. Free, and
+by permission.
+
+Station.--Mullinavat, on Great Southern and Western Railway, 7-3/4 miles
+from Waterford. Accommodation at M'Donald's Hotel and Hely's Hotel.
+Duck, widgeon, teal, and snipe; shooting free on Bishop's Mountain and
+Moenrin. By permission.
+
+
+~SLIGO DISTRICT.~
+
+Station.--Sligo, on Great Southern and Western Railway, thence by car.
+Place, Rosse's Point. Accommodation--Hotels good. Shooting--free below
+high water mark.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+  Achill Head, 246.
+
+  Adare, 59.
+
+  Adare Abbey, 60.
+
+  Adare Manor, 61.
+
+  Adare Manor Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Aghada, 95.
+
+  Aghadoe, 156.
+
+  Among the Arbutus, 266.
+
+  Arbutus Island, Killarney, 267.
+
+  Arbutus Rock, Lake Currane, 202.
+
+  Ardfert, 62.
+
+  Ardmore, 105, 256.
+
+  Arran Islands, 243, 256.
+
+  Athenry, 237.
+
+  Athlone, 39.
+
+  Athlone Golf Links, 291.
+
+
+  Ballincollig, 89.
+
+  Ballingrane, 62.
+
+  Ballybunion, 62, 65, 257.
+
+  Ballycotton, 96.
+
+  Baltimore, 172.
+
+  Banagher Golf Links, 291.
+
+  Bandon Golf Links, 293.
+
+  Bank of Ireland, 17.
+
+  Bantry, 172.
+
+  Beenarourke, 204.
+
+  Birr Castle, 39.
+
+  Birr Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Black Abbey, 36.
+
+  Blackrock, 89.
+
+  Blackrock Castle, Cork, 89.
+
+  Blackwater River, 101, 107.
+
+  Blackwater River, Youghal, &c., 98.
+
+  Blackwater at Kenmare, 219.
+
+  Blarney, 77, 257.
+
+  Blarney Castle, 86.
+
+  Boating at Killarney, 135.
+
+  Boher, 46.
+
+  Brayhead, 192.
+
+  Bundoran Golf Links, 294.
+
+  Bunratty Castle, 221.
+
+  Buttevant, 98.
+
+
+  Cahirciveen, 182, 187, 257.
+
+  Caragh Lake, 178.
+
+  Caragh Lake, Southern Hotel, 178.
+
+  Carlow, 33.
+
+  Carrantual, Killarney, 146.
+
+  Carrick-on-Suir, 127.
+
+  Carton House, Maynooth, 28.
+
+  Cashel, 130.
+
+  Castleconnell, 53, 257.
+
+  Castletown, 27.
+
+  Castletown House, 27.
+
+  Caves of Mitchelstown, 131.
+
+  Charleville, 134.
+
+  Christ Church Cathedral, 20.
+
+  Claddagh, 243.
+
+  Clare and East Galway Natural History, 272.
+
+  Clew Bay, 248.
+
+  Clifden, 245.
+
+  Cliffs of Moher, 231.
+
+  Cliffs at Valencia, 191.
+
+  Clock Tower, Youghal, 102.
+
+  Clonakilty Golf Links, 293.
+
+  Clondalkin, 26.
+
+  Clonmacnoise, 44.
+
+  Clonmel, 127.
+
+  Cloonaghlin Lake, 188.
+
+  Cloyne, 95.
+
+  Connemara and Sligo, 245.
+
+  Coomakista, 204.
+
+  Coomakisteen Hill, 205.
+
+  Coomasaharn, 182.
+
+  Cork, 73.
+
+  Cork District, 85.
+
+  Cork District--
+    Cycling, 279.
+    Fishing, 297, 300.
+    Shooting, 303.
+
+  Cork Exhibition, 84.
+
+  County Clare, 221.
+
+  Cratloe Woods, 221.
+
+  Cromwell's Bridge, 171.
+
+  Crosshaven, 95.
+
+  Curragh Camp, 31, 32.
+
+  Curraghmore Ho., 118.
+
+  Custom Ho., Dublin, 21.
+
+  Cycling, 278.
+
+
+  Dame St., Dublin, 18.
+
+  Derriana Lake, 188.
+
+  Derrynane, 206.
+
+  Derrynane Abbey, 206.
+
+  Diamond Mountain, 247.
+
+  Dinish Island, Killarney, 144.
+
+  Dooks, 180.
+
+  Dromod, 67.
+
+  Dromoland Castle, 222.
+
+  Dublin Castle, 19.
+
+  Dublin and District, 15.
+
+  Dublin District--
+    Fishing, 295, 299.
+    Golfing, 291.
+    Shooting, 302.
+
+  Duke of York Route, 67.
+
+  Dungarvan, 132.
+
+  Dunmore, 122.
+
+  Dunmore East, 257.
+
+
+  Eagle's Nest, Killarney, 145.
+
+  Eccles' Hotel, Glengarriff, 166.
+
+  Emly, 133.
+
+  Ennis, 221.
+
+  Ennistymon, 223.
+
+
+  Falls of Doonass, 54.
+
+  Fenit, 66.
+
+  Fethard, 128.
+
+  Fishing, 295.
+
+  Four Courts, Dublin, 23.
+
+  Foynes, 62.
+
+
+  Galteemore, 132.
+
+  Galway, 238.
+
+  Galway and Dist., 235.
+
+  Galway Golf Links, 294.
+
+  Galway, Queen's College, 244.
+
+  Gannets on Little Skellig, 197.
+
+  Gap of Dunloe, 157.
+
+  Garinish Island, 212, 215.
+
+  Geological Section, Bantry to Killarney, 263.
+
+  Glenbeigh, 182.
+
+  Glenbrook, 92.
+
+  Glendalough, 249.
+
+  Glengarriff, 166, 257.
+
+  Golfing, 291.
+
+  Golfing at Lehinch, 229.
+
+  Gort, 237.
+
+  Gougane Barra, 169.
+
+  Grattan, 17.
+
+  Great Cross of the Scriptures, 45.
+
+  Guest House, Mount Melleray, 111.
+
+
+  Harristown, 29.
+
+  Headford, 134.
+
+  Holy Cross Abbey, 129.
+
+
+  Imperial Hotel, Waterford, 117.
+
+  Inchigeela, 171.
+
+  Innisfallen, Killarney, 146.
+
+  Irish Spurge, 268.
+
+
+  Kells, 38, 182.
+
+  Kenmare, 257.
+
+  Kenmare and Glengarriff, 164.
+
+  Kenmare, Southern Hotel, 166, 218.
+
+  Kerry Ditchbank, 264.
+
+  Kerry Slug, 269.
+
+  Kildare, 31.
+
+  Kilkee, 225, 228, 258.
+
+  Kilkenny, 33, 34.
+
+  Kilkenny Castle, 35.
+
+  Killaloe, 58, 67.
+
+  Killaloe Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Killery Bay, 251.
+
+  Killarney, 136, 258.
+
+  Killarney, Arbutus Island, 267.
+
+  Killarney, Carrantual, 146.
+
+  Killarney, Dinish, 144.
+
+  Killarney, Eagle's Nest, 145.
+
+  Killarney, Gap of Dunloe, 157.
+
+  Killarney, Innisfallen, 146.
+
+  Killarney, Meeting of the Waters, 149.
+
+  Killarney, Muckross Abbey, 151.
+
+  Killarney, Shooting the Rapids, 143.
+
+  Killarney, Torc, 153.
+
+  Killarney, Up. Lake, 139.
+
+  Killarney District, Cycling, 283.
+
+  Killarney District, Fishing, 298, 300.
+
+  Killarney and Glengarriff, 133.
+
+  Killarney, Southern Hotel, 136.
+
+  Killorglin, 178.
+
+  Kilmallock, 133.
+
+  Kilrush, 232.
+
+  Kincora, 69.
+
+  Kinvara, 237.
+
+  Kylemore, 253.
+
+
+  Lake Coomasaharn, 186.
+
+  Lake Currane, 200.
+
+  Lakes and Fjords of Kerry, 175.
+
+  Lartigue Railway, 63.
+
+  Leenane, 248, 258.
+
+  Lehinch, 258.
+
+  Lehinch Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Letterfrack, 248.
+
+  Limerick, 47.
+
+  Limerick District, Cycling, 281.
+
+  Limerick District, Fishing, 296, 299.
+
+  Limerick District, Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Limerick District, Shooting, 303.
+
+  Limerick Junction, 46.
+
+  Liscanor, 232.
+
+  Lisdoonvarna, 224, 258.
+
+  Lismore, 110.
+
+  Lismore Golf Links, 293.
+
+  Littleisland Golf Links, 293.
+
+  Look-out Cliff, Kilkee, 227.
+
+  Lough Corrib, 245, 250.
+
+  Lough Gill, 252, 254.
+
+  Lough Gur, 134.
+
+  Lough Ree, 71.
+
+  Lucan, 26, 258.
+
+
+  Mallaranny, 252.
+
+  Mallow, 99.
+
+  Mallow Castle, 100.
+
+  Mallow Golf Links, 293.
+
+  Mangerton, 160.
+
+  Marina, Cork, 75.
+
+  Maryborough, 39.
+
+  Meeting of the Waters, Killarney, 149.
+
+  Midleton, 105.
+
+  Milltown Malbay, 232.
+
+  Mitchelstown, 131.
+
+  Monasterevan, 38.
+
+  Monkstown, 92.
+
+  Mount Melleray, 109.
+
+  Mount Melleray, Guest House, 111.
+
+  Mountain Stage, 182.
+
+  Muckross Abbey, 151.
+
+  Myrtle Grove, 104.
+
+
+  Naas, 28.
+
+  National Library, Dublin, 23.
+
+  Natural History, 260.
+
+  Nest of Wood Ant, 271.
+
+  Newcastle, 62.
+
+  Newbridge, 31.
+
+  Newport, 248.
+
+  North Kerry, 59.
+
+
+  Oughterard, 245.
+
+  Oratory of Gallerius,66.
+
+
+  Parknasilla, 210, 258.
+
+  Parknasilla, Southern Hotel, 212, 213.
+
+  Passage (East), 126.
+
+  Passage (West), 90.
+
+  Pass of Ballaghbeama, 181.
+
+  Patrick Street, Cork, 74.
+
+  Pennywort, 264.
+
+  Portarlington, 38.
+
+  Portumna, 67.
+
+  Poulaphouca, 258.
+
+  Poulaphouca Waterfall, 30.
+
+  Purple Mountain, Killarney, 159.
+
+  Queen's College, Cork, 79.
+
+  Queen's College, Galway, 244.
+
+  Queenstown, 92, 258.
+
+  Queenst'n Harbour, 91.
+
+
+  Raheen Lake, Currane, 201.
+
+  Rathkeale, 62.
+
+  Rathmore, 134.
+
+  Recess, 259.
+
+  Roche's Hotel, Glengarriff, 166.
+
+  Roscrea, 39.
+
+  Ross Castle, Killarney, 155, 158.
+
+  Round Tower, Clondalkin, 25.
+
+  Rushbrook Golf Links, 294.
+
+
+  Salmon Leap, Lucan, 26.
+
+  Salthill, Galway, 242.
+
+  Sarsfield Statue, Limerick, 50.
+
+  Saxifraga umbrosa, 265.
+
+  Scariff, 67.
+
+  Shandon Church, Cork, 82.
+
+  Shannon Development Company, 67.
+
+  Shannon Steamer, 70.
+
+  Shooting, 302.
+
+  Shooting the Rapids, Killarney, 143.
+
+  Sir Walter Raleigh's House, 103.
+
+  Skelligs, 194.
+
+  Slea Head, 66.
+
+  Sligo District--
+    Cycling, 289.
+    Fishing, 298, 301.
+    Shooting, 305.
+
+  Sligo Golf Links, 294.
+
+  Sligo, Nat. History, 274.
+
+  Smerwick, 66.
+
+
+  Southern Hotel, Caragh Lake, 178.
+
+  Southern Hotel, Kenmare, 166, 218.
+
+  Southern Hotel, Killarney, 136.
+
+  Southern Hotel, Parknasilla, 212, 213.
+
+  Southern Hotel, Waterville, 198.
+
+  Spa, 66.
+
+  Spanish Point, 232.
+
+  Spike Island, 92.
+
+  Sport, 277.
+
+  Staigue Fort, 202.
+
+  St. Canice's Cathedral, 36.
+
+  St. Finbarr's Cathedral, 80.
+
+  St. Michael's Rock, 194.
+
+  St. Patrick's Cathedral, 20.
+
+  Straffan, 28.
+
+  Strancally Castle, 106.
+
+  St. Stephen's Green, 17.
+
+  Sneem, 207.
+
+  Suir, 116.
+
+  Summer and Winter Resort, 256.
+
+
+  Thomastown, 38.
+
+  Three Sisters, 66.
+
+  Thurles, 128.
+
+  Torc, 153.
+
+  Tralee, 66.
+
+  Tramore, 119, 259.
+
+  Tramore Golf Links, 292.
+
+  Treaty Stone, Lim'k. 48.
+
+  Trinity College, 18.
+
+  Tuam, 238.
+
+  Tullamore Golf Links, 291.
+
+  Tullow, 29.
+
+  Twelve Bens, 245.
+
+
+  Upper Lake, Killarney, 139.
+
+
+  Valencia, 259.
+
+  Valencia Harbour, 190.
+
+  Valencia Island, 188.
+
+
+  Waterford, 112, 259.
+
+  Waterford and District, 112.
+
+  Waterford District--
+    Cycling, 284.
+    Fishing, 297.
+    Golf Links, 292.
+    Shooting, 304.
+
+  Waterford and East Cork, Natural History, 262.
+
+  Waterford, The Quays, 115.
+
+  Waterville, 196, 259.
+
+  Waterville, Southern Hotel, 199.
+
+  West Cork, &c., Natural History, 262.
+
+  West Galway and West Mayo, Natural History, 272.
+
+  Westport, 248.
+
+  Wicklow and Wexford, Natural History, 261.
+
+  Wolf Spider, 273.
+
+
+  Youghal, 101.
+
+  Youghal Golf Links, 293.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Advertisements.
+
+
+
+
+~Gresham Hotel, DUBLIN.~
+
+[Illustration]
+
+This Old Established and First Class Hotel is situate in
+Sackville-street, one of the finest thoroughfares in the world. Many
+improvements have of late been made--Electric Light, &c. Visitors to
+Dublin will find their Requirements catered for at the Gresham in a
+manner unsurpassed by any Hotel in the City. No efforts are spared to
+ensure in every possible way the comfort of its Patrons.
+
+~120 BEDROOMS.~
+
+~Spacious Saloons and Ball Room on Ground Floor.~
+
+~FIRST CLASS CUISINE.~ ~MODERATE CHARGES.~
+
+~JAMES FARRELLY, Manager.~
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~DUBLIN SHELBOURNE HOTEL~
+
+Charmingly situated facing the beautiful St. Stephen's Green Park.
+
+FIRST CLASS
+
+WITH
+
+MODERATE CHARGES
+
+CHOICEST WINES
+
+AND
+
+FRENCH CUISINE.
+
+HYDRAULIC LIFT,
+
+ELECTRIC LIGHT,
+
+TELEPHONE NO. 150.
+
+EVERY MODERN CONVENIENCE.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~The "Hammam" Hotel~ AND ~Turkish Baths~,
+
+SACKVILLE ST. DUBLIN,
+
+[Illustration]
+
+"Three Days' Guide to Dublin" free on application.
+
+Daily Terms from 8/6.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+_By Special Permission of Her late Most Gracious Majesty Queen
+Victoria._
+
+~The ROYAL VICTORIA Hotel,~
+
+PATRONISED BY _His Majesty King Edward VII., H.R.H. the Duke of
+Connaught, the Royal Families of France and Belgium, the Nobility and
+Gentry of Great Britain and Ireland, and leading American Families._
+
+[Illustration]
+
+MAGNIFICENTLY situated on Lower Lake, facing Innisfallen. Highly
+recommended for its superior comfort. The only Hotel in Killarney at
+which King Edward VII. stayed when Prince of Wales.
+
+JOHN O'LEARY, PROPRIETOR.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~LAKE HOTEL, KILLARNEY LAKES.~
+
+_Patronised by HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY THE KING._
+
+~Under New Management. Standing in its own Grounds upwards of 60 acres
+on the Shore of the Lower Lake.~
+
+Unrivalled in situation, concentrating in one view all that is
+picturesque and sublime in the scenery.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+NEWLY FURNISHED; Electric Light throughout (Bedrooms included). Boating,
+Fishing, and Shooting. Conveyances Daily for Local Tours at fixed rates
+for each Person, also for Private Hiring. Billiards, Tennis.
+
+THE ONLY HOTEL IN THE DISTRICT DIRECTLY ON THE LAKE SHORE.
+
+Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains. The Glengarriff Coach stops at Entrance
+Gates to take up and set down Passengers.
+
+The Railway Company allow only the Porters of their own Hotel on the
+Arrival Platform. The Lake Hotel Porters will be found at the Station
+Entrance.
+
+~Address THE MANAGER.~
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~WEST END HOTEL, KILKEE.~
+
+~First-Class Accommodation.~
+
+Beautifully Situated. Overlooking Bay. Magnificent Coast Scenery.
+
+Nearest Bathing Resorts.
+
+Recently Furnished. Board per Week or per Day.
+
+'Bus and Porter await arrival of all Trains.
+
+Coupons of The Irish Railway Companies Tourist Office, 2, Charing Cross,
+London.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~KILKEE, CO. CLARE.~
+
+~Royal Marine Hotel.~
+
+Extensive additions have been made for the coming season. It is the most
+central Hotel in Kilkee, commanding full view of Bay and Cliffs. Is
+within two minutes' walk of Railway Station, principal Bathing Resorts,
+Post Office, and places of Worship. This Hotel contains all facilities
+and convenience of a First-Class Hotel, with the quiet and comforts of
+home. Tourists and Visitors will find it to their advantage to patronise
+the above Hotel.
+
+~Arrangements made for Private Families.~
+
+_The Hotel Omnibus attends the trains._
+
+OWN DAIRY.
+
+~Address: PROPRIETOR.~
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~Castleconnell, CO. LIMERICK.~
+
+"One of Ireland's beauty spots." Seven miles from Limerick.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+~SHANNON HOTEL.~
+
+(Mrs. K. Enright, Proprietress.)
+
+_ANGLERS' AND TOURIST RESORT._
+
+Head-Quarters C.T.C.
+
+Five miles walk along the banks of the Shannon. MAGNIFICENT RIVER
+SCENERY, Including "FAR-FAMED RAPIDS OF DOONASS."
+
+~Cycling.~ ~Boating.~ ~Driving.~ ~Pretty Walks.~
+
+~Castleconnell~ can be reached from
+
+  London in              13-1/2 hours.
+  Liverpool under        11  "
+  Leeds                  13  "
+  Manchester             11-1/4  "
+  Birmingham             12  "
+  York                   14 hours, 20 mins.
+  Bristol                15 hours.
+  Dublin                  3  "
+  Cork                    2 hours, 55 mins.
+  Killarney       under   4 hours.
+  Waterford               3 hours, 20 mins.
+  Killaloe                --       20 minutes.
+
+N.B.--Salmon Fishing by arrangement; Trout Fishing FREE; also
+good Pike, Perch, and Roach Fishing FREE.
+
+Telephone 502, Limerick.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ROYAL HOTEL,
+
+VALENCIA ISLAND, CO. KERRY.
+
+This Hotel has been patronised by H. M. The KING And Their
+Royal Highnesses The PRINCE and PRINCESS OF WALES.
+
+~It is now considered the Most Comfortable and Up-to-Date Hotel in
+Ireland.~
+
+~HOT AND COLD SEA WATER BATHS.~
+
+CHARGES FIXED AND MODERATE.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+CUNARD LINE,
+
+INAUGURATED JULY 4th, 1840.
+
+NOTICE.--The Steamers of this Line come alongside the Prince's Stage,
+Liverpool, to land or embark Passengers without the intervention of
+Tenders, and London Passengers depart from or arrive at the Riverside
+Railway Station on the Quay adjoining.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+FLEET.
+
+  CAMPANIA.
+  LUCANIA.
+  ETRURIA.
+  UMBRIA.
+  AURANIA.
+  IVERNIA.
+  SAXONIA.
+  ULTONIA.
+  SYLVANIA.
+  VERIA.
+  CYPRIA.
+  PAVIA.
+  TYRIA.
+  SAMARIA.
+  SARAGOSSA.
+  ALEPPO.
+  CHERBOURG.
+  CARPATHIA, Building
+
+~Sailings to and from New York and Boston on Saturdays and Tuesdays.~
+
+~FASTEST SHIPS BETWEEN LIVERPOOL AND NEW YORK.~
+
+~LARGEST SHIPS BETWEEN LIVERPOOL AND BOSTON.~
+
+~Fitted with Marconi's System of Wireless Telegraphy.~
+
+The Twin-Screw Ships "IVERNIA" and "SAXONIA," which sail between
+Liverpool and Boston, are among the largest Ships afloat, and their
+remarkable steadiness makes sea-sickness practically impossible.
+
+UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATION AT MODERATE FARES FOR ALL CLASSES AND FOR ALL
+STEAMERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+~MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE.~
+
+FREQUENT FREIGHT SAILINGS FROM LIVERPOOL
+
+~For Syria, Smyrna, Constantinople, Malta, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples,
+Brindisi, Trieste, Venice, Fiume, Bari, Ancona, Palermo, Messina,
+Catania, Patras, and Corfu.~
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+HAVRE SERVICE.
+
+~Freight Steamers from Liverpool and Havre weekly.~
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+* * * For full particulars apply at the Company's Offices: in New York, at
+29, Broadway; in Boston, at 99, State-street; in Havre, at 28, Quai
+d'Orleans; in Paris, at 2, bis Rue Scribe; in London, at 32,
+Cockspur-street, S.W., and 93, Bishopsgate-street, E.C.; in Manchester,
+at 18, Brazennose-street; in Glasgow, at 30, Jamaica-street; in Leith,
+at Exchange Buildings; in Belfast, at 49, Queen's-square; in Queenstown,
+at Cunard Wharf; or to
+
+~THE CUNARD STEAM SHIP COMPANY, LIMITED~,
+
+8, WATER-STREET, LIVERPOOL.
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+Great Western Railway of England.
+
+  SHORTEST ROUTE
+  BETWEEN
+  ~ENGLAND~
+  AND THE
+  SOUTH AND WEST OF IRELAND.
+
+  FAST AND COMFORTABLE NEW STEAMERS
+  SAIL REGULARLY BETWEEN
+  ~WATERFORD AND CORK~
+  AND
+  ~NEW MILFORD~.
+
+  ~OPEN SEA PASSAGE~
+  BETWEEN
+  Waterford and New Milford.
+  Under 5 Hours.
+
+  ~THE BOAT TRAINS~
+  RUNNING BETWEEN
+  NEW MILFORD AND PADDINGTON
+  In connection with the Steamers are provided with
+
+  ~Central Corridors.~
+  ~Lighted by Electricity.~
+  ~Lavatory Accommodation.~
+
+  _Direct Communication with Guard._
+
+REFRESHMENTS may be obtained in the trains by First, Second, and Third
+Class Passengers.
+
+For further information as to train service, fares, &c., see the
+Company's time tables.
+
+Full particulars will be supplied on application to Mr. H. J. NICHOLLS,
+Great Western Railway Company's Offices, Waterford; Mr. A. W. PERKS,
+Adelphi Wharf, Waterford; Mr. E. FOGG, Railway Chambers, King Street,
+Cork; Mr. ALFRED DODD, Great Western Agent, Limerick Terminus; Messrs.
+COOK & SON, Main Street, Killarney; or to Mr. T. I. ALLEN,
+Superintendent of the Line, Paddington Station, London.
+
+~J. L. WILKINSON, General Manager.~
+
+_July, 1902._
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+~WATERFORD.~
+
+~_IMPERIAL HOTEL._~
+
+~FIRST CLASS HOTEL,~
+
+Patronised by the Aristocracy, Tourists and Commercial Gentlemen.
+
+  ~Spacious Drawing,
+  Coffee, Commercial,
+  Billiard and Bath Rooms.
+  Smoking, Stock, and Rent Rooms.~
+
+Sanitation Certified. The Hotel has been recently enlarged,
+re-furnished, and decorated.
+
+~TARIFF MODERATE.~
+
+~_COMMERCIAL ROOM DINNER_~ from 1.45 to 3.30 daily.
+
+~Table d'Hote at 7.30 daily.~
+
+_Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamers._
+
+Telephone, No. 22. Telegrams--"IMPERIAL," Waterford.
+
+~W. A. MURRAY, Proprietor.~
+
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Permission to visit Adare Manor may be obtained (on application)
+from the Head Steward, Adare.
+
+[2] The other places of worship in Cork are as follows:--_Roman
+Catholic:_ St. Mary's Cathedral, Clarence-street; SS. Peter and Paul's,
+Patrick-street (designed by Pugin); St. Patrick's, King-street (Military
+Mass); St. Finbarr's, Dunbar-street (here Hogan's masterpiece, "The Dead
+Christ," may be seen under High Altar); St. Joseph's, Mayfield; St.
+Finbarr's, West, Lough-road; St. Augustine's Priory (Augustinians),
+Great George-street; St. Mary's (Dominicans), Pope's-quay; St. Francis'
+(Franciscans), Liberty-street; Holy Trinity (Friars Minors Capuchins),
+Charlotte-quay; St. Vincent's (Congregation of the Mission), Sunday's
+Well; and Chapel of Convent of St. Mary's of the Isle, Fitton-street.
+_Church of Ireland:_ Christ Church, South Main-street; St. Ann's,
+Church-street; St. Luke's, Summer Hill; St. Mary's, Shanakiel-road; St.
+Nicholas', Cove-street; St. Paul's, Paul-street; St. Peter's, North
+Main-street; Cork Episcopal Free Church, Langford-row; St. Michael's,
+Blackrock; and Frankfield Church. _Other Denominations:_ Baptist Church,
+King-street; Congregational Church, George-street; Patrick-street
+Methodist Chapel; Society of Friends, Grattan-street; Presbyterian,
+Summer Hill; Plymouth Brethren, Prince's-street; and Cork Hebrews, 10,
+South Terrace.
+
+[3] "Amber water." It recently passed from the representatives of the
+late Sir John Pope Hennessy into the possession of Sir Henry Blake.
+Permission to visit the house may be obtained on application to Mr.
+French, Land Agent, South Mall, Cork.
+
+[4] To be seen in the National Gallery, Dublin.
+
+[5] Heights of the Principal Mountains, According to the Ordnance
+Survey.
+
+  Carrantual,              3,414 feet.
+  Mangerton,               2,756  "
+  Purple Mount,            2,739  "
+  Toomies,                 2,413  "
+  Torc,                    1,764  "
+  Eagle's Nest,            1,103  "
+
+  Elevation of Loughs above the Sea.
+
+  Devil's Punch Bowl,      2,206 feet.
+  Gum-Meem-Na-Copasta      2,156  "
+  Gouragh,                 1,226  "
+  Callee,                  1,096  "
+  Black Lough,               587  "
+  Cush Valley,               337  "
+  Kittane,                   256  "
+  Coom-a-Dhuv,               197  "
+  Upper Lake,                 70  "
+  Lower Lake,                 66  "
+
+
+  PRINTED BY ALEX. THOM & CO., LIMITED,
+  87, 88, & 89, ABBEY STREET,
+  DUBLIN.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Sunny Side of Ireland, by
+John O'Mahony and R. Lloyd Praeger
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SUNNY SIDE OF IRELAND ***
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