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Knapp. +</title> + +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- +body + {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: left;} + +img + { /*border: 0;} */ + border: 1px solid black; padding: 2px; } + +img.noborder { border: 0; } + +h1,h2,h3,h4 + {text-align: center;} + +hr + {width: 33%; text-align: center;} + +hr.longer { width: 65%; } + +.smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + +.blkquot + {margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%;} + +.poetry + {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + +.toc + {margin-left: 2%; margin-right: 2%; font-size: 90%; } + +.footnote + {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 80%;} + +.tocitem + {margin: 1em 5% 1em 5%;} + +.citation + {margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: right;} + +.bl + {border-left: solid black 1px;} + +.bb + {border-bottom: solid black 1px;} + +.bt + {border-top: solid black 1px;} + +.br + {border-right: solid black 1px;} + +.plain { list-style: none; } + +table {empty-cells: show; } + +.lef + {float: left; + margin-right: 4px;} + +.rig + {float: right; + margin-left: 4px;} + +p.caption + {margin-top: 0; font-size: 80% ;} + +div.centre + {text-align: center;} + +div.centre table + {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</style> + +</head> + +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cocoa and Chocolate, by Arthur W. Knapp + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Cocoa and Chocolate + Their History from Plantation to Consumer + +Author: Arthur W. Knapp + +Release Date: August 18, 2006 [EBook #19073] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COCOA AND CHOCOLATE *** + + + + +Produced by Michael Ciesielski, Annika Feilbach and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<h1>COCOA AND CHOCOLATE</h1> + +<h2><i>Their History from Plantation to Consumer</i></h2> + +<p> </p> + +<h3>By</h3> + +<h3>ARTHUR W. KNAPP</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<p> +B. Sc. (B'ham.), F.I.C., B. Sc. (Lond.)<br /> +Member of the Society of Public Analysts; Member of the Society +of Chemical Industry; Fellow of the Institute of Hygiene.<br /> +Research Chemist to Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.<br /> +</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<h3>LONDON, CHAPMAN AND HALL, LTD.</h3> +<h3>1920.</h3> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="pagev" id="pagev"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="preface" id="preface">PREFACE</a></h2> + +<p> +Although there are several excellent scientific +works dealing in a detailed manner with +the cacao bean and its products from the various +view points of the technician, there is no comprehensive +modern work written for the general reader. Until +that appears, I offer this little book, which attempts to +cover lightly but accurately the whole ground, including +the history of cacao, its cultivation and manufacture. +This is a small book in which to treat of so large a +subject, and to avoid prolixity I have had to generalise. +This is a dangerous practice, for what is gained in +brevity is too often lost in accuracy: brevity may be +always the soul of wit, it is rarely the body of truth. +The expert will find that I have considered him in that +I have given attention to recent developments, and if +I have talked of the methods peculiar to one place as +though they applied to the whole world, I ask him to +consider me by supplying the inevitable variations and +exceptions himself. +</p> + +<p> +The book, though short, has taken me a long time to +write, having been written in the brief breathing spaces +of a busy life, and it would never have been completed +but for the encouragement I received from Messrs. +Cadbury Bros., Ltd., who aided me in every possible +way. I am particularly indebted to the present Lord +Mayor of Birmingham, Mr. W.A. Cadbury, for advice +and criticism, and to Mr. Walter Barrow for reading +the proofs. The members of the staff to whom I am +indebted are Mr. W. Pickard, Mr. E.J. Organ, Mr. +T.B. Rogers; also Mr. A. Hackett, for whom the +diagrams in the manufacturing section were originally +made by Mr. J.W. Richards. I am grateful to Messrs. +<a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a> +J.S. Fry and Sons, Limited, for information and +photographs. In one or two cases I do not know whom +to thank for the photographs, which have been culled +from many sources. I have much pleasure in thanking +the following: Mr. R. Whymper for a large number of +Trinidad photos; the Director of the Imperial +Institute and Mr. John Murray for permission to use +three illustrations from the Imperial Institute series +of handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the +Tropics; M. Ed. Leplae, Director-General of Agriculture, +Belgium, for several photos, the blocks of +which were kindly supplied by Mr. H. Hamel Smith, +of <i>Tropical Life</i>; Messrs. Macmillan and Co. for five +reproductions from C.J.J. van Hall's book on <i>Cocoa</i>; +and <i>West Africa</i> for four illustrations of the Gold +Coast. +</p> + +<p> +The photographs reproduced on pages 2, 23, 39, +47, 49 and 71 are by Jacobson of Trinidad, on pages +85 and 86 by Underwood & Underwood of London, +and on page 41 by Mrs. Stanhope Lovell of Trinidad. +</p> + +<p> +The industry with which this book deals is changing +slowly from an art to a science. It is in a transition +period (it is one of the humours of any live industry +that it is always in a transition period). There are +many indications of scientific progress in cacao +cultivation; and now that, in addition to the experimental +and research departments attached to the principal +firms, a Research Association has been formed for the +cocoa and chocolate industry, the increased amount of +diffused scientific knowledge of cocoa and chocolate +manufacture should give rise to interesting developments. +</p> + +<p>A.W. KNAPP.</p> + +<p>Birmingham, +<i>February, 1920.</i></p> + +<p><a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a></p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="centre"> +<table summary="table of contents"> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="right"><span style="font-size: 80%;">PAGE</span></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#preface">PREFACE</a></td><td align="right"><a href="#pagev">v</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#intro">INTRODUCTION</a></td><td align="right"><a href="#page1">1</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter1">CHAPTER I</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>COCOA AND CHOCOLATE--A SKETCH OF THEIR HISTORY</td><td align="right"><a href="#page5">5</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter2">CHAPTER II</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>CACAO AND ITS CULTIVATION</td><td align="right"><a href="#page17">17</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter3">CHAPTER III</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>HARVESTING AND PREPARATION FOR THE MARKET</td><td align="right"><a href="#page45">45</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><div class="toc">With a dialogue on +"The Kind of Cacao the Manufacturers Like."</div></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter4">CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>CACAO PRODUCTION AND SALE</td><td align="right"><a href="#page81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><div class="toc">With notes on the chief producing areas, cacao markets, and the +planter's life</div></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter5">CHAPTER V</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>THE MANUFACTURE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE</td><td align="right"><a href="#page119">119</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter6">CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>THE MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE</td><td align="right"><a href="#page139">139</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a><a href="#chapter7">CHAPTER VII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>BY-PRODUCTS OF THE COCOA AND CHOCOLATE INDUSTRY</td><td align="right"><a href="#page157">157</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><div class="toc">(_a_) Cacao Butter, (_b_) Cacao Shell</div></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter8">CHAPTER VIII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>THE COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE</td><td align="right"> +<a href="#page165">165</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><div class="toc">(including Milk Chocolate)</div></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter9">CHAPTER IX</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>ADULTERATION, AND THE NEED FOR DEFINITIONS</td><td align="right"><a href="#page179">179</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>THE CONSUMPTION OF CACAO</td><td align="right"><a href="#page183">183</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#bibliography">BIBLIOGRAPHY</a></td><td align="right"><a href="#page191">191</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><div class="toc">A List of the Important Books on Cocoa and Chocolate +from the earliest times to the present day.</div></td></tr> + +<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr> +<tr><td><a href="#index">INDEX</a></td><td align="right"><a href="#page207">207</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="pageix" id="pageix"></a></p> + +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<ul class="plain"> +<li><a href="#image1">Cacao Pods</a></li> +<li><a href="#image2">Old Drawing of an American Indian, with Chocolate Whisk, etc.</a></li> +<li><a href="#image3">Native American Indians Roasting the Beans, etc.</a></li> +<li><a href="#image4">Ancient Mexican Drinking Cups</a></li> +<li><a href="#image5">Cacao Tree, with Pods and Leaves</a></li> +<li><a href="#image6">Cacao Tree, shewing Pods Growing from Trunk</a></li> +<li><a href="#image7">Flowers and Fruits on main branches of a Cacao Tree</a></li> +<li><a href="#image8">Cacao Pods</a></li> +<li><a href="#image9">Cut Pod, revealing the White Pulp round the Beans</a></li> +<li><a href="#image10">Cacao Pods, shewing Beans inside</a></li> +<li><a href="#image11">Drawing of Typical Pods illustrating varieties</a></li> +<li><a href="#image12">Tropical Forest, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image13">Characteristic Root System of the Cacao Tree</a></li> +<li><a href="#image14">Nursery with the Young Cacao Plants in Baskets, Java</a></li> +<li><a href="#image15">Planting Cacao from Young Seedlings in Bamboo Pots, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image16">Cacao in its Fourth Year</a></li> +<li><a href="#image17">Copy of an Old Engraving shewing the Cacao Tree, and a tree shading it</a></li> +<li><a href="#image18">Cacao Trees shaded by Kapok, Java</a></li> +<li><a href="#image19">Cacao Trees shaded by Bois Immortel, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image20">Cacao Tree with Suckers</a></li> +<li><a href="#image21">Cutlassing</a></li> +<li><a href="#image23">Common Types of Cacao Pickers</a></li> +<li><a href="#image24">Gathering Cacao Pods, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image25">Collecting Cacao Pods into a Heap</a></li> +<li><a href="#image26">Men Breaking Pods, etc.</a></li> +<li><a href="#image27">Sweating Boxes, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a name="pagex" id="pagex"></a> +<a href="#image28">Fermenting Boxes, Java</a></li> +<li><a href="#image29">Charging Cacao on to Trucks in the Plantation, San Thomé</a></li> +<li><a href="#image30">Cacao in the Fermenting Trucks, San Thomé</a></li> +<li><a href="#image31">Tray-barrow for Drying Small Quantities</a></li> +<li><a href="#image32">Spreading the Cacao Beans on mats to dry, Ceylon</a></li> +<li><a href="#image33">Drying Trays, Grenada</a></li> +<li><a href="#image34">"Hamel Smith" Rotary Dryer</a></li> +<li><a href="#image35">Drying Platforms with Sliding Roofs, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image36">Cacao Drying Platforms, San Thomé</a></li> +<li><a href="#image37">Washing the Beans, Ceylon</a></li> +<li><a href="#image38">Claying Cacao Beans, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image39">Sorting Cacao Beans, Java</a></li> +<li><a href="#image40">Diagram: World's Cacao Production</a></li> +<li><a href="#image41">MAP of the World, with only Cacao-Producing Areas marked</a></li> +<li><a href="#image42">Raking Cacao Beans on the Driers, Ecuador</a></li> +<li><a href="#image43">Gathering Cacao Pods, Ecuador</a></li> +<li><a href="#image44">Sorting Cacao for Shipment, Ecuador</a></li> +<li><a href="#image45">MAP of South America and the West Indies</a></li> +<li><a href="#image46">Workers on a Cacao Plantation</a></li> +<li><a href="#image47">MAP of Africa, with only Cacao-Producing Areas marked</a></li> +<li><a href="#image48">Foreshore at Accra, with Stacks of Cacao ready for Shipment</a></li> +<li><a href="#image49">Carriers conveying Bags of Cacao to Surf Boats, Accra</a></li> +<li><a href="#image50">Crossing the River, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image51">Drying Cacao Beans, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image52">Shooting Cacao from the Road to the Beach, Accra</a></li> +<li><a href="#image53">Rolling Cacao, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image54">Rolling Cacao, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image55">Carrying Cacao to the Railway Station, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image56">Wagon Loads of Cacao being taken from Depot to the Beach, Accra</a></li> +<li><a href="#image57">The Buildings of the Boa Entrada Cacao Estate, San Thomé</a></li> +<li><a name="pagexi" id="pagexi"></a> +<a href="#image58">Drying Cacao, San Thomé</a></li> +<li><a href="#image59">Barrel Rolling, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image60">Bagging Cacao, Gold Coast</a></li> +<li><a href="#image61">Surf Boats by the Side of the Ocean Liner, Accra</a></li> +<li><a href="#image62">Bagging Cacao Beans for Shipment, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image63">Transferring Bags of Cacao to Lighters, Trinidad</a></li> +<li><a href="#image64">Diagram showing Variation in Price of Cacao Beans, 1913-1919</a></li> +<li><a href="#image65">Group of Workers on Cacao Estate</a></li> +<li><a href="#image66">Carting Cacao to Railway Station, Ceylon</a></li> +<li><a href="#image67">The Carenage, Grenada</a></li> +<li><a href="#image68">Early Factory Methods</a></li> +<li><a href="#image69">Women Grinding Chocolate</a></li> +<li><a href="#image70">Cacao Bean Warehouse</a></li> +<li><a href="#image71">Cacao Bean Sorting and Cleaning Machine</a></li> +<li><a href="#image72">Diagram of Cacao Bean Cleaning Machine</a></li> +<li><a href="#image73">Section through Gas Heated Cacao Roaster</a></li> +<li><a href="#image74">Roasting Cacao Beans</a></li> +<li><a href="#image75">Cacao Bean, Shell and Germ</a></li> +<li><a href="#image76">Section through Kibbling Cones and Germ Screens</a></li> +<li><a href="#image77">Section through Winnowing Machine</a></li> +<li><a href="#image78">Cacao Grinding</a></li> +<li><a href="#image79">Section through Grinding Stones</a></li> +<li><a href="#image80">A Cacao Press</a></li> +<li><a href="#image81">Section through Cacao Press-pot and Ram-plate</a></li> +<li><a href="#image82">Chocolate Mélangeur</a></li> +<li><a href="#image83">Plan of Chocolate Mélangeur</a></li> +<li><a href="#image84">Chocolate Refining Machine</a></li> +<li><a href="#image85">Grinding Cacao Nib and Sugar</a></li> +<li><a href="#image86">Section through Chocolate Grinding Rolls</a></li> +<li><a href="#image87">"Conche" Machines</a></li> +<li><a href="#image88">Section through "Conche" Machine</a></li> +<li><a href="#image89">Machines for Mixing or "Conching" Chocolate</a></li> +<li><a href="#image90">Chocolate Shaking Table</a></li> +<li><a href="#image91">Girls Covering or Dipping Cremes, etc.</a></li> +<li><a href="#image92">The Enrober</a></li> +<li><a name="pagexii" id="pagexii"></a> +<a href="#image93">A Confectionery Room</a></li> +<li><a href="#image94">Factory at which Milk is Evaporated for Milk Chocolate Manufacture</a></li> +<li><a href="#image95">Cocoa and Chocolate Despatch Deck</a></li> +<li><a href="#image97">Boxing Chocolates</a></li> +<li><a href="#image98">Packing Chocolates</a></li> +<li><a href="#image99">Factory at which Milk is Evaporated for Milk Chocolate Manufacture</a></li> +<li><a href="#image100">Cacao Pods, Leaves and Flowers</a></li> +</ul> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page1" id="page1"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="intro" id="intro">INTRODUCTION</a></h2> + +<p> +In a few short chapters I propose to give a plain +account of the production of cocoa and chocolate. +I assume that the reader is not a specialist and +knows little or nothing of the subject, and hence both +the style of writing and the treatment of the subject +will be simple. At the same time, I assume that the +reader desires a full and accurate account, and not a +vague story in which the difficulties are ignored. I hope +that, as a result of this method of dealing with my subject, +even experts will find much in the book that is of +interest and value. After a brief survey of the history +of cocoa and chocolate, I shall begin with the growing +of the cacao bean, and follow the <i>cacao</i> in its career +until it becomes the finished product ready for consumption. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Cacao or Cocoa?</i></h3> + +<p> +The reader will have noted above the spelling +"cacao," and to those who think it curious, I would +say that I do not use this spelling from pedantry. It is +an imitation of the word which the Mexicans used for +this commodity as early as 1500, and when spoken by +Europeans is apt to sound like the howl of a dog. The +Mexicans called the tree from which cacao is obtained +<i>cacauatl</i>. When the great Swedish scientist Linnaeus, +the father of botany, was naming and classifying (about +1735) the trees and plants known in his time, he christened +it <i>Theobroma Cacao</i>, by which name it is called +by botanists to this day. Theo-broma is Greek for +"Food of the Gods." Why Linnaeus paid this +extraordinary compliment to cacao is obscure, but it +has been suggested that he was inordinately fond of +<a name="page2" id="page2"></a> +the beverage prepared from it—the cup which both +cheers and satisfies. It will be seen from the above that +the species-name is cacao, and one can understand +that Englishmen, finding it difficult to get their insular +lips round this outlandish word, lazily called it +cocoa. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image1" id="image1"></a> +<a href="images/image001.jpg"> +<img src="images/image001_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO PODS (Amelonado type) in various states of growth and ripeness." +title="CACAO PODS (Amelonado type) in various states of growth and ripeness." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO PODS (Amelonado type) in various states of growth and ripeness. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In this book I shall use the words cacao, cocoa, and +chocolate as follows: +</p> + +<p> +<i>Cacao</i>, when I refer to the cacao tree, the cacao pod, +or the cacao bean or seed. By the single word, cacao, I +imply the raw product, cacao beans, in bulk. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Cocoa</i>, when I refer to the powder manufactured +from the roasted bean by pressing out part of the +butter. The word is too well established to be changed, +<a name="page3" id="page3"></a> +even if one wished it. As we shall see later (in the +chapter on adulteration) it has come legally to have a +very definite significance. If this method of +distinguishing between cacao and cocoa were the accepted +practice, the perturbation which occurred in the public +mind during the war (in 1916), as to whether manufacturers +were exporting "cocoa" to neutral countries, +would not have arisen. It should have been spelled +"cacao," for the statements referred to the raw beans +and not to the manufactured beverage. Had this been +done, it would have been unnecessary for the manufacturers +to point out that cocoa powder was not being +so exported, and that they naturally did not sell the +raw cacao bean. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Chocolate.</i>—This word is given a somewhat wider +meaning. It signifies any preparation of roasted cacao +beans without abstraction of butter. It practically +always contains sugar and added cacao butter, and is +generally prepared in moulded form. It is used either +for eating or drinking. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Cacao Beans and Coconuts.</i></h3> + +<p> +In old manuscripts the word cacao is spelled in all +manner of ways, but <i>cocoa</i> survived them all. This +curious inversion, <i>cocoa</i>, is to be regretted, for it has +led to a confusion which could not otherwise have +arisen. But for this spelling no one would have dreamed +of confusing the totally unrelated bodies, cacao and the +milky coconut. (You note that I spell it "coconut," +not "cocoanut," for the name is derived from the +Spanish "coco," "grinning face," or bugbear for +frightening children, and was given to the nut because +the three scars at the broad end of the nut resemble a +grotesque face). To make confusion worse confounded +the old writers referred to cacao <i>seeds</i> as cocoa <i>nuts</i> (as +for example, in <i>The Humble Memorial of Joseph Fry</i>, +quoted in the chapter on history), but, as in appearance +cacao seeds resemble <i>beans</i>, they are now usually +<a name="page4" id="page4"></a> +spoken of as beans. The distinction between cacao +and the coconut may be summarised thus: +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td class="bt"> </td> +<td align="center" class="bt bb bl">Cacao.</td> +<td align="center" class="bt bb bl">Coconut.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Botanical Name</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Theobroma Cacao<br />Tree</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Cocos nucifera Palm<br />Palm</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Fruit</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Cacao pod, containing<br /> many seeds (cacao<br /> + beans)</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Coconut, which with<br /> + outer fibre is as<br /> + large as a man's<br /> + head</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Products</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Cocoa<br />Chocolate</td> +<td align="left" class="bl">Broken coconut (copra)<br />Coconut matting</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" class="bb">Fatty Constituent</td> +<td align="left" class="bb bl">Cacao butter</td> +<td align="left" class="bb bl">Coconut oil</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page5" id="page5"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter1" id="chapter1">CHAPTER I</a></h2> + +<h3>COCOA AND CHOCOLATE—A SKETCH OF THEIR HISTORY</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +Did time and space allow, there is much to be told on +the romantic side of chocolate, of its divine origin, of the +bloody wars and brave exploits of the Spaniards who +conquered Mexico and were the first to introduce cacao into +Europe, tales almost too thrilling to be believed, of the +intrigues of the Spanish Court, and of celebrities who met +and sipped their chocolate in the parlours of the coffee and +chocolate houses so fashionable in the seventeenth and +eighteenth centuries. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>Cocoa and Chocolate</i> (Whymper). +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<p> +On opening a cacao pod, it is seen to be full of +beans surrounded by a fruity pulp, and whilst +the pulp is very pleasant to taste, the beans +themselves are uninviting, so that doubtless the beans +were always thrown away until ... someone tried +roasting them. One pictures this "someone," a pre-historic +Aztec with swart skin, sniffing the aromatic +fume coming from the roasting beans, and thinking +that beans which smelled so appetising must be good +to consume. The name of the man who discovered the +use of cacao must be written in some early chapter of +the history of man, but it is blurred and unreadable: +all we know is that he was an inhabitant of the New +World and probably of Central America. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Original Home of Cacao.</i></h3> + +<p>The corner of the earth where the cacao tree originally +grew, and still grows wild to-day, is the country +<a name="page6" id="page6"></a> +watered by the mighty Amazon and the Orinoco. This +is the very region in which Orellano, the Spanish +adventurer, said that he had truly seen El Dorado, +which he described as a City of Gold, roofed with gold, +and standing by a lake with golden sands. In reality, +El Dorado was nothing but a vision, a vision that for +a hundred years fascinated all manner of dreamers and +adventurers from Sir Walter Raleigh downwards, so +that many braved great hardships in search of it, +groped through the forests where the cacao tree grew, +<a name="page7" id="page7"></a> +and returned to Europe feeling they had failed. To +our eyes they were not entirely unsuccessful, for whilst +they failed to find a city of gold, they discovered the +home of the golden pod. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image2" id="image2"></a> +<a href="images/image002.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image002_thumb.jpg" +alt="OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN; AT HIS FEET +A CHOCOLATE-CUP, CHOCOLATE-POT, AND CHOCOLATE +WHISK OR "MOLINET."" +title="OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN; AT HIS FEET +A CHOCOLATE-CUP, CHOCOLATE-POT, AND CHOCOLATE +WHISK OR "MOLINET."" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN; AT HIS FEET +A CHOCOLATE-CUP, CHOCOLATE-POT, AND CHOCOLATE +WHISK OR "MOLINET."<br /> +(From <i>Traitez Nouveaux et Curieux du Café, du Thé, et +du Chocolate</i>. Dufour, 1693). +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Montezuma—the First Great Patron of Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<p> +When Columbus discovered the New World he +brought back with him to Europe many new and +curious things, one of which was cacao. Some years +later, in 1519, the Spanish conquistador, Cortes, landed +in Mexico, marched into the interior and discovered +to his surprise, not the huts of savages, but a beautiful +city, with palaces and museums. This city was the +capital of the Aztecs, a remarkable people, notable +alike for their ancient civilisation and their wealth. +Their national drink was chocolate, and Montezuma, +their Emperor, who lived in a state of luxurious +magnificence, "took no other beverage than the chocolatl, +a potation of chocolate, flavoured with vanilla and +other spices, and so prepared as to be reduced to a +froth of the consistency of honey, which gradually +dissolved in the mouth and was taken cold. This +beverage if so it could be called, was served in golden +goblets, with spoons of the same metal or tortoise-shell +finely wrought. The Emperor was exceedingly fond of +it, to judge from the quantity—no less than fifty jars +or pitchers being prepared for his own daily +consumption: two thousand more were allowed for that +of his household."<a name="I-1m" id="I-1m" href="#I-1"><small>[1]</small></a> +It is curious that Montezuma took +no other beverage than chocolate, especially if it be +true that the Aztecs also invented that fascinating +drink, the cocktail (xoc-tl). How long this ancient +people, students of the mysteries of culinary science, +had known the art of preparing a drink from cacao, is +not known, but it is evident that the cultivation of +cacao received great attention in these parts, for if we +<a name="page8" id="page8"></a> +read down the list of the tributes paid by different +cities to the Lords of Mexico, we find "20 chests of +ground chocolate, 20 bags of gold dust," again "80 +loads of red chocolate, 20 lip-jewels of clear amber," +and yet again "200 loads of chocolate." +</p> + +<p> +Another people that share with the Aztecs the honour +of being the first great cultivators of cacao are the +Incas of Peru, that wonderful nation that knew not +poverty. +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Fascination of Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<p> +That chocolate charmed the ladies of Mexico in +the seventeenth century (even as it charms the ladies +of England to-day) is shown by a story which Gage +relates in his <i>New Survey of the West Indias</i> (1648). +He tells us that at Chiapa, southward from Mexico, +the women used to interrupt both sermon and mass +by having their maids bring them a cup of hot chocolate; +and when the Bishop, after fair warning, excommunicated +them for this presumption, they +changed their church. The Bishop, he adds, was poisoned +for his pains. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Cacao Beans as Money.</i></h3> + +<p> +Cacao was used by the Aztecs not only for the preparation +of a beverage, but also as a circulating medium +of exchange. For example, one could purchase a +"tolerably good slave" for 100 beans. We read that: +"Their currency consisted of transparent quills of +gold dust, of bits of tin cut in the form of a T, and of +bags of cacao containing a specified number of grains." +"Blessed money," exclaims Peter Martyr, "which +exempts its possessor from avarice, since it cannot be +long hoarded, nor hidden underground!" +</p> + + +<h3><i>Derivation of Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<p> +The word was derived from the Mexican <i>chocolatl</i>. +The Mexicans used to froth their chocolatl with curious +whisks made specially for the purpose (see <a href="#page6">page 6</a>). +<a name="page9" id="page9"></a> +<a name="page10" id="page10"></a> +Thomas Gage suggests that <i>choco, choco, choco</i> is a +vocal representation of the sound made by stirring +chocolate. The suffix <i>atl</i> means water. According to +Mr. W.J. Gordon, we owe the name of chocolate to a +misprint. He states that Joseph Acosta, who wrote as +early as 1604 of chocolatl, was made by the printer to +write <i>chocolaté</i>, from which the English eliminated +the accent, and the French the final letter. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image3" id="image3"></a> +<a href="images/image003.jpg"> +<img src="images/image003_thumb.jpg" +alt="NATIVE AMERICAN INDIANS ROASTING AND GRINDING THE BEANS, AND MIXING THE CHOCOLATE IN A JUG WITH A WHISK. +(From Ogilvy's _America_, 1671)" +title="NATIVE AMERICAN INDIANS ROASTING AND GRINDING THE BEANS, AND MIXING THE CHOCOLATE IN A JUG WITH A WHISK. +(From Ogilvy's _America_, 1671)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +NATIVE AMERICAN INDIANS ROASTING AND GRINDING THE BEANS, AND MIXING THE +CHOCOLATE IN A JUG WITH A WHISK.<br /> +(From Ogilvy's <i>America</i>, 1671) +</p> +</div> + +<h3><i>First Cacao in Europe.</i></h3> + +<p> +The Spanish discoverers of the New World brought +home to Spain quantities of cacao, which the curious +tasted. We may conclude that they drank the preparation +cold, as Montezuma did, <i>hot</i> chocolate being a +later invention. The new drink, eagerly sought by +some, did not meet with universal approval, and, as +was natural, the most diverse opinions existed as to +the pleasantness and wholesomeness of the beverage +when it was first known. Thus Joseph Acosta (1604) +wrote: "The chief use of this cocoa is in a drincke +which they call Chocholaté, whereof they make great +account, foolishly and without reason; for it is loathsome +to such as are not acquainted with it, having a +skumme or frothe that is very unpleasant to taste, if +they be not well conceited thereof. Yet it is a drincke +very much esteemed among the Indians, whereof they +feast noble men as they passe through their country. +The Spaniards, both men and women, that are accustomed +to the country are very greedy of this chocholaté." +It is not impossible that the English, with the defeat +of the Armada fresh in memory, were at first +contemptuous of this "Spanish" drink. Certain it is, +that when British sea-rovers like Drake and Frobisher, +captured Spanish galleons on the high seas, and on +searching their holds for treasure, found bags of cacao, +they flung them overboard in scorn. In considering +this scorn of cacao, shown alike by British buccaneers +and Dutch corsairs, together with the critical air of +Joseph Acosta, we should remember that the original +<a name="page11" id="page11"></a> +chocolatl of the Mexicans consisted of a mixture of +maize and cacao with hot spices like chillies, and +contained no sugar. In this condition few inhabitants of +the temperate zone could relish it. It however only +needed one thing, the addition of sugar, and the +introduction of this marked the beginning of its European +popularity. The Spaniards were the first to manufacture +and drink chocolate in any quantity. To this day +they serve it in the old style—thick as porridge and +pungent with spices. They endeavoured to keep secret +the method of preparation, and, without success, to +retain the manufacture as a monopoly. Chocolate was +introduced into Italy by Carletti, who praised it and +spread the method of its manufacture abroad. The +new drink was introduced by monks from Spain into +Germany and France, and when in 1660 Maria Theresa, +Infanta of Spain, married Louis XIV, she made chocolate +well known at the Court of France. She it was of +whom a French historian wrote that Maria Theresa +had only two passions—the king and chocolate. +</p> + +<p> +Chocolate was advocated by the learned physicians +of those times as a cure for many diseases, and it was +stated that Cardinal Richelieu had been cured of +general atrophy by its use. +</p> + +<p> +From France the use of chocolate spread into +England, where it began to be drunk as a luxury by +the aristocracy about the time of the Commonwealth. +It must have made some progress in public favour by +1673, for in that year "a Lover of his Country" wrote +in the <i>Harleian Miscellany</i> demanding its prohibition +(along with brandy, rum, and tea) on the ground that +this imported article did no good and hindered the +consumption of English-grown barley and wheat. +New things appeal to the imaginative, and the absence +of authentic knowledge concerning them allows free +play to the imagination—so it happened that in the +early days, whilst many writers vied with one another +in writing glowing panegyrics on cacao, a few +thought it an evil thing. Thus, whilst it was praised +<a name="page12" id="page12"></a> +by many for its "wonderful faculty of quenching +thirst, allaying hectic heats, of nourishing and fattening +the body," it was seriously condemned by others +as an inflamer of the passions! +</p> + + +<h3><i>Chocolate Houses and Clubs.</i></h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +"The drinking here of chocolate<br /> +Can make a fool a sophie." +</div> + +<p> +In the spacious days of Queen Elizabeth, tea, coffee, +and chocolate were unknown save to travellers and +savants, and the handmaidens of the good queen drank +beer with their breakfast. When Shakespeare and Ben +Jonson forgathered at the Mermaid Tavern, their +winged words passed over tankards of ale, but later +other drinks became the usual accompaniment of news, +story, and discussion. In the sixteen-sixties there were +no strident newspapers to destroy one's equanimity, +and the gossip of the day began to be circulated and +discussed over cups of tea, coffee, or chocolate. The +humorists, ever stirred by novelty, tilted, pen in +hand, at these new drinks: thus one rhymster described +coffee as +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +"Syrrop of soot or essence of old shoes." +</div> + +<p> +The first coffee-house in London was started in St. +Michael's Alley, Cornhill, in 1652 (when coffee was +seven shillings a pound); the first tea-house was +opened in Exchange Alley in 1657 (when tea was five +sovereigns a pound), and in the same year (with chocolate +about ten to fifteen shillings per pound) a Frenchman +opened the first chocolate-house in Queen's Head +Alley, Bishopsgate Street. The rising popularity of +chocolate led to the starting of more of these chocolate +houses, at which one could sit and sip chocolate, or +purchase the commodity for preparation at home. +Pepys' entry in his diary for 24th November, 1664, +contains: "To a coffee house to drink jocolatte, very +good." It is an artless entry, and yet one can almost +hear him smacking his lips. Silbermann says that +<a name="page13" id="page13"></a> +"After the Restoration there were shops in London +for the sale of chocolate at ten shillings or fifteen shillings +per pound. Ozinda's chocolate house was full of +aristocratic consumers. Comedies, satirical essays, +memoirs and private letters of that age frequently +mention it. The habit of using chocolate was deemed +a token of elegant and fashionable taste, and while the +charms of this beverage in the reigns of Queen Anne +and George I. were so highly esteemed by courtiers, +by lords and ladies and fine gentlemen in the polite +world, the learned physicians extolled its medicinal +virtues." From the coffee house and its more aristocratic +relative the chocolate house, there developed a +new feature in English social life—the Club. As the +years passed the Chocolate House remained a rendezvous, +but the character of its habitués changed from +time to time. Thus one, famous in the days of Queen +Anne, and well known by its sign of the "Cocoa Tree," +was at first the headquarters of the Jacobite party, and +the resort of Tories of the strictest school. It became +later a noted gambling house ("The gamesters shook +their elbows in White's and the chocolate houses round +Covent Garden," <i>National Review</i>, 1878), and ultimately +developed into a literary club, including amongst +its members Gibbon, the historian, and Byron, the +poet. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Tax on Cacao.</i></h3> + +<p> +The growing consumption of chocolate did not +escape the all-seeing eye of the Chancellors of England. +As early as 1660 we find amongst various custom and +excise duties granted to Charles II: +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +For every gallon of chocolate, sherbet, and tea +made and sold, to be paid by the maker thereof +..... 8d." +</div> + +<p> +Later the raw material was also made a source of +revenue. In <i>The Humble Memorial of Joseph Fry</i>, of +Bristol, Maker of Chocolate, which was addressed to +the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury in 1776 +<a name="page14" id="page14"></a> +(Messrs. Fry and Sons are the oldest English firm of +chocolate makers, having been founded in 1728), we +read that "Chocolate ... pays two shillings and +threepence per pound excise, besides about ten shillings +per hundredweight on the Cocoa Nuts from which +it is made." +</p> + +<p> +In 1784 a preferential customs rate was proposed in +favour of our Colonies. This they enjoyed for many +years before 1853, when the uniform rate, until recently +in force, was introduced. This restrictive tariff +on foreign growths rose in 1803 to 5s. 10d. per pound, +against 1s. 10d. on cacao grown in British possessions. +From this date it gradually diminished. High duties +hampered for many years the sale of cocoa, tea and +coffee, but in recent times these duties have been +brought down to more reasonable figures. For many +years before 1915 the import duty was 1d. per pound +on the raw cacao beans, 1d. per pound on cacao butter, +and 2s. a hundredweight (less than a farthing a pound) +on cacao shells or husks. In the Budget of September, +1915, the above duties were increased by fifty per +cent. A further and greater increase was made in the +Budget of April, 1916, when cacao was made to pay a +higher tax in Britain than in any other country in the +world. In 1919 Imperial preference was introduced +after a break of over sixty years, the duty on cocoa +from foreign countries being 3/4d. a pound more than +that from British Possessions. +</p> + +<h3><i>Duty on Cacao.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left"></td> +<td align="center">1855-1915.</td><td align="center">1915.</td><td align="center">1916.</td> +<td align="center">1919.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao beans per lb.</td><td align="center">1d.</td><td align="center">1-1/2d.</td> +<td align="center">6d.</td><td align="center">4-1/2d. foreign, 3-3/4d. British</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao butter per lb.</td><td align="center">1d.</td><td align="center">1-1/2d.</td> +<td align="center">6d.</td><td align="center">4-1/2d. foreign, 3-3/4d. British</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao shells per cwt.</td><td align="center">2s.</td><td align="center">3s.</td> +<td align="center">12s.</td><td align="center">6s. foreign, 5s. British</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +In considering this duty and its effect on the price of +the finished article, it should be remembered that +there are substantial losses in manufacture. Thus the +beans are cleaned, which removes up to 0.5 per cent.; +<a name="page15" id="page15"></a> +roasted, which causes a loss by volatilisation of 7 per +cent.; and shelled, the husks being about 12 per cent. +Therefore, the actual yield of usable nib, which has +to bear the whole duty, is about 80 per cent. It may be +well to add that the yield of cocoa powder is 48 per +cent. of the raw beans, or roughly, one pound of the +raw product yields half a pound of the finished article. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Introduction of Cocoa Powder.</i></h3> + +<p> +The drink "cocoa" as we know it to-day was not +introduced until 1828. Before this time the ground +bean, mixed with sugar, was sold in cakes. The beverage +prepared from these chocolate cakes was very rich +in butter, and whilst the British Navy has always consumed +it in this condition (the sailors generally remove +with a spoon the excess of butter which floats to +the top) it is a little heavy for less hardy digestions. +Van Houten (of the well-known Dutch house of that +name) in 1828 invented a method of pressing out part +of the butter, and thus obtained a lighter, more appetising, +and more easily assimilated preparation. As the +butter is useful in chocolate manufacture, this process +enabled the manufacturer to produce a less costly +cocoa powder, and thus the circle of consumers was +widened. Messrs. Cadbury Bros., of Birmingham, first +sold their "cocoa essence" in 1866, and Messrs. Fry +and Sons, of Bristol, introduced a pure cocoa by pressing +out part of the butter in 1868. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Growing Popularity of Cacao Preparations.</i></h3> + +<p> +The incidence of import duties did not prevent the +continuous increase in the amount of cacao consumed +in the British Isles. When Queen Victoria came to the +throne the cacao cleared for home consumption was +about four or five thousand tons, more than half of +which was consumed by the Navy. At the time of +Queen Victoria's death it had increased to four times +this amount, and by 1915 it had reached nearly fifty +<a name="page16" id="page16"></a> +thousand tons. (For statistics of consumption, see <a href="#page183">p. 183</a>). +</p> + +<hr /> + +<p>This brief sketch of the history of cacao owes much +to "Cocoa—all about it," by Historicus (the pseudonym +of the late Richard Cadbury). This work is out +of print, but those who are fortunate enough to be +able to consult it will find therein much that is curious +and discursive.</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image4" id="image4"></a> +<a href="images/image004.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image004_thumb.jpg" +alt="ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS +(British Museum)" +title="ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS +(British Museum)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +ANCIENT MEXICAN DRINKING CUPS<br /> +(British Museum) +</p> +</div> + + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="I-1" id="I-1" href="#I-1m">[1]</a> Prescott's <i>Conquest of Mexico</i>. +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page17" id="page17"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter2" id="chapter2">CHAPTER II</a></h2> + +<h3>CACAO AND ITS CULTIVATION</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +O tree, upraised in far-off Mexico! +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +"<i>Ode to the Chocolate Tree</i>," 1664. +</div> + +<p> +How seldom do we think, when we drink a cup +of cocoa or eat some morsels of chocolate, that +our liking for these delicacies has set minds +and bodies at work all the world over! Many types of +humanity have contributed to their production. Picture +in the mind's eye the graceful coolie in the sun-saturated +tropics, moving in the shade, cutting the pods +from the cacao tree; the deep-chested sailor helping +to load from lighters or surf-boats the precious bags of +cacao into the hold of the ocean liner; the skilful workman +roasting the beans until they fill the room with a +fine aroma; and the girl with dexterous fingers packing +the cocoa or fashioning the chocolate in curious, +and delicate forms. To the black and brown races, the +negroes and the East Indians, we owe a debt for their +work on tropical plantations, for the harder manual +work would be too arduous for Europeans unused to +the heat of those regions. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Climate Necessary.</i></h3> + + +<p> +Cacao can only grow at tropical temperatures, and +when shielded from the wind and unimpaired by +drought. Enthusiasts, as a hobby, have grown the tree +under glass in England; it requires a warmer temperature +than either tea or coffee, and only after infinite +care can one succeed in getting the tree to flower +<a name="page18" id="page18"></a> +and bear fruit. The mean temperature in the countries +in which it thrives is about 80 degrees F. in the +shade, and the average of the maximum temperatures +is seldom more than 90 degrees F., or the average of +the minimum temperatures less than 70 degrees F. The +rainfall can be as low as 45 inches per annum, as in the +Gold Coast, or as high as 150 inches, as in Java, provided +the fall is uniformly distributed. The ideal spot +is the secluded vale, and whilst in Venezuela there are +plantations up to 2000 feet above sea level, cacao cannot +generally be profitably cultivated above 1000 feet. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Factors of Geographical Distribution.</i></h3> + +<p> +Climate, soil, and manures determine the possible +region of cultivation—the extent to which the area is +utilised depends on the enterprise of man. The original +home of cacao was the rich tropical region, far-famed +in Elizabethan days, that lies between the Amazon +and the Orinoco, and but for the enterprise of man it +is doubtful if it would have ever spread from this region. +Monkeys often carry the beans many miles—man, the +master-monkey, has carried them round the world. +First the Indians spread cacao over the tropical belt +of the American continent and cultivated it as far +North as Mexico. Then came the Spanish explorers +of the New World, who carried it from the mainland +to the adjacent West Indian islands. Cacao was planted +by them in Trinidad as early as 1525. Since that date +it has been successfully introduced into many a tropical +island. It was an important day in the history of Ceylon +when Sir R. Horton, in 1834, had cacao plants brought +to that island from Trinidad. The carefully packed +plants survived the ordeal of a voyage of ten thousand +miles. The most recent introduction is, however, the +most striking. About 1880 a native of the Gold Coast +obtained some beans, probably from Fernando Po. +In 1891, the first bag of cacao was exported; it weighed +80 pounds. In 1915, 24 years later, the export from the +Gold Coast was 120 million pounds. +<a name="page19" id="page19"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image5" id="image5"></a> +<a href="images/image005.jpg"> +<img src="images/image005_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO TREE, WITH PODS AND LEAVES." +title="CACAO TREE, WITH PODS AND LEAVES." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO TREE, WITH PODS AND LEAVES. +</p> +</div> + +<h3><i>The Cacao Tree.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image6" id="image6"></a> +<a href="images/image006.jpg"> +<img src="images/image006_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO TREE, SHOWING PODS GROWING FROM TRUNK." +title="CACAO TREE, SHOWING PODS GROWING FROM TRUNK." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO TREE, SHOWING PODS GROWING FROM TRUNK. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Tropical vegetation appears so bizarre to the visitor +from temperate climes that in such surroundings the +cacao tree seems almost commonplace. It is in appearance +as moderate and unpretentious as an apple tree, though +<a name="page20" id="page20"></a> +somewhat taller, being, when full grown, about twenty +feet high. It begins to bear in its fourth or fifth year. +Smooth in its early youth, as it gets older it becomes +covered with little bosses (cushions) from which many +flowers spring. I saw one fellow, very tall and gnarled, +and with many pods on it; turning to the planter I +enquired "How old is that tree?" He replied, almost +reverentially: "It's a good deal older than I am; +must be at least fifty years old." "It's one of the tallest +cacao trees I've seen. I wonder—." The planter +perceived my thought, and said: "I'll have it measured +for you." It was forty feet high. That was a tall +one; usually they are not more than half that height. +The bark is reddish-grey, and may be partly hidden +by brown, grey and green patches of lichen. The bark +is both beautiful and quaint, but in the main the tree +<a name="page21" id="page21"></a> +owes its beauty to its luxuriance of prosperous leaves, +and its quaintness to its pods. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image7" id="image7"></a> +<a href="images/image007.jpg"> +<img src="images/image007_thumb.jpg" +alt="FLOWERS AND FRUITS ON MAIN BRANCHES OF A CACAO TREE +(Reproduced from van Hall's Cocoa, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." +title="FLOWERS AND FRUITS ON MAIN BRANCHES OF CACAO TREE +(Reproduced from van Hall's Cocoa, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +FLOWERS AND FRUITS ON MAIN BRANCHES OF CACAO TREE<br /> +(Reproduced from van Hall's Cocoa, by permisson of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.). +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>The Flowers, Leaves and Fruit.</i></h3> + +<p> +Although cacao trees are not unlike the fruit trees +of England, there are differences which, when first one +sees them, cause expressions of surprise and pleasure +<a name="page22" id="page22"></a> +to leap to the lips. One sees what one never saw before, +the fruit springing from the main trunk, quite close to +the ground. An old writer has explained that this is due +to a wise providence, because the pod is so heavy that +if it hung from the end of the branches it would fall off +before it reached maturity. The old writer talks of +providence; a modern writer would see in the same +facts a simple example of evolution. On the same cacao +tree every day of the year may be found flowers, young +podkins and mature pods side by side. I say "found" +advisedly—at the first glance one does not see the +flowers because they are so dainty and so small. The +buds are the size of rice grains, and the flowers are not +more than half an inch across when the petals are fully +out. The flowers are pink or yellow, of wax-like appearance, +and have no odour. They were commonly stated +to be pollinated by thrips and other insects. Dr. von +Faber of Java has recently shown that whilst self-pollination +is the rule, cross fertilisation occurs between +the flowers on adjacent or interlocking trees. These +graceful flowers are so small that one can walk through +a plantation without observing them, although an +average tree will produce six thousand blossoms in a +year. Not more than one per cent. of these will become +fruit. Usually it takes six months for the bud to develop +into the mature fruit. The lovely mosses that grow on the +stems and branches are sometimes so thick that they +have to be destroyed, or the fragile cacao flower could +not push its way through. Whilst the flowers are small, +the leaves are large, being as an average about a foot in +length and four inches in breadth. The cacao tree never +appears naked, save on the rare occasions when it is +stripped by the wind, and the leaves are green all the +year round, save when they are red, if the reader +will pardon an Hibernianism. And indeed there is +something contrary in the crimson tint, for whilst +we usually associate this with old leaves about to fall, +with the cacao, as with some rose trees, it is the tint of +the young leaves. +<a name="page23" id="page23"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image8" id="image8"></a> +<a href="images/image008.jpg"> +<img src="images/image008_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO PODS." +title="CACAO PODS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO PODS. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>The Cacao Pod.</i></h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image9" id="image9"></a> +<a href="images/image009.jpg"> +<img src="images/image009_thumb.jpg" +alt="CUT POD, REVEALING THE WHITE PULP ROUND THE BEANS (CEYLON.)" +title="CUT POD, REVEALING THE WHITE PULP ROUND THE BEANS (CEYLON.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CUT POD, REVEALING THE WHITE PULP ROUND THE BEANS (CEYLON.) +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The fruit, which hangs on a short thick stalk, may +be anything in shape from a melon to a stumpy, irregular +cucumber, according to the botanic variety. The +intermediate shape is like a lemon, with furrows from +end to end. There are pods, called Calabacillo, smooth +<a name="page24" id="page24"></a> +and ovate like a calabash, and there are others, more +rare, so "nobbly" that they are well-named "Alligator." +The pods vary in length from five to eleven +inches, "with here and there the great pod of all, the +blood-red <i>sangre-tora</i>." The colours of the pods are +as brilliant as they are various. They are rich and strong, +and resemble those of the rind of the pomegranate. +One pod shows many shades of dull crimson, another +grades from gold to the yellow of leather, and yet +another is all lack-lustre pea-green. They may be +likened to Chinese lanterns hanging in the woods. One +does not conclude from the appearance of the pod that +the contents are edible, any more than one would surmise +that tea-leaves could be used to produce a refreshing +drink. I say as much to the planter, who smiles. +<a name="page25" id="page25"></a> +With one deft cut with his machete or cutlass, which +hangs in a leather scabbard by his side, the planter +severs the pod from the tree, and with another slash +cuts the thick, almost woody rind and breaks open the +pod. There is disclosed a mass of some thirty or forty +beans, covered with juicy pulp. The inside of the rind +and the mass of beans are gleaming white, like melting +snow. Sometimes the mass is pale amethyst in colour. I +perceive a pleasant odour resembling melon. Like +little Jack Horner, I put in my thumb and pull out a +snow-white bean. It is slippery to hold, so I put it in +my mouth. The taste is sweet, something between +grape and melon. Inside this fruity coating is the bean +proper. From different pods we take beans and cut +them in two, and find that the colour of the bean varies +from purple almost to white. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image10" id="image10"></a> +<a href="images/image010.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image010_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO PODS, SHEWING BEANS INSIDE." +title="CACAO PODS, SHEWING BEANS INSIDE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO PODS, SHEWING BEANS INSIDE. +</p> +</div> + +<h3><i>Botanical Description.</i></h3> + +<p> +Theobroma Cacao belongs to the family of the +<i>Sterculiaceae</i>, and to the same order as the Limes and +Mallows. It is described in Strasburger's admirable +<i>Text-Book of Botany</i> as follows: +<a name="page26" id="page26"></a> +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p> +"Family. <i>Sterculiaceae.</i> +</p> + +<p> +IMPORTANT GENERA. The most important plant is +the Cocoa Tree (<i>Theobroma Cacao</i>). It is a low tree +with short-stalked, firm, brittle, simple leaves of +large size, oval shape, and dark green colour. The +young leaves are of a bright red colour, and, as in many +tropical trees, hang limply downwards. The flowers +are borne on the main stem or the older branches, and +arise from dormant axillary buds (Cauliflory). Each +petal is bulged up at the base, narrows considerably +above this, and ends in an expanded tip. The form of +the reddish flowers is thus somewhat urn-shaped with +five radiating points. The pentalocular ovary has +numerous ovules in each loculus. As the fruit develops, +the soft tissue of the septa extends between the single +seeds; the ripe fruit is thus unilocular and many-seeded. +The seed-coat is filled by the embryo, which +has two large, folded, brittle cotyledons." +</p></div> + +<p> +The last sentence conveys an erroneous impression. +The two cotyledons, which form the seed, are not +brittle when found in nature in the pod. They are +juicy and fleshy. And it is only after the seed has received +special treatment (fermentation and drying) to +obtain the bean of commerce, that it becomes brittle. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Varieties of Theobroma Cacao.</i></h3> + +<p> +As mentioned above, the pods and seeds of Theobroma +Cacao trees show a marked variation, and in +every country the botanist has studied these variations +and classified the trees according to the shape and +colour of the pods and seeds. The existence of so many +classifications has led to a good deal of confusion, and +we are indebted to Van Hall for the simplest way of +clearing up these difficulties. He accepts the classification +first given by Morris, dividing the trees into +two varieties—Criollo and Forastero: +<a name="page27" id="page27"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image11" id="image11"></a> +<a href="images/image011.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image011_thumb.jpg" +alt="DRAWINGS OF TYPICAL PODS, illustrating varieties." +title="DRAWINGS OF TYPICAL PODS, illustrating varieties." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DRAWINGS OF TYPICAL PODS, illustrating varieties. +</p> +<a name="page28" id="page28"></a> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Extremes of Characteristics.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left" valign="top"><div class="centre"><i>Criollo.</i></div><br /><br />(Old Red, Caracas, etc.)</td> +<td align="left"><div class="centre"><i>Forastero.</i></div><br /><br />Grading from Cundeamor<br /> + bottle-necked) to Calabacillo<br /> smooth).</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" valign="top"><br /> + <table summary=""> + <tr> + <td><i>Pod walls.</i></td><td>Thin and warty.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td valign="top"><i>Beans.</i></td><td>Large and plump.<br />White.<br />Sweet.</td> + </tr> + </table> +</td> +<td align="left"><br /> + <table summary=""> + <tr> + <td>Thick and woody.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>Small and flat.<br />Heliotrope to purple.<br />Asringent.</td> + </tr> + </table> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The cacao of the criollo variety has pods the walls of +which are thin and warty, with ten distinct furrows. +The seeds or beans are white as ivory throughout, +round and plump, and sweet to taste. The forastero +variety includes many sub-varieties, the kind most +distinct from the criollo having pods, the walls of +which are thick and woody, the surface smooth, the +furrows indistinct, and the shape globular. The seeds +in these pods are purple in colour, flat in appearance, +and bitter to taste. This is a very convenient classification. +Personally I believe it would be possible to +find pods varying by almost imperceptible gradations +from the finest, purest, criollo to the lowest form of +forastero (namely, calabacillo). The criollo yields the +finest and rarest kind of cacao, but as sometimes happens +with refined types in nature, it is a rather delicate +tree, especially liable to canker and bark diseases, and +this accounts for the predominance of the forastero in +the cacao plantations of the world. +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Cacao Plantation.</i></h3> + +<p> +One can spend happy days on a cacao estate. "Are +you going into the cocoa?" they ask, just as in England +we might enquire, "Are you going into the corn?" +<a name="page29" id="page29"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image12" id="image12"></a> +<a href="images/image012.jpg"> +<img src="images/image012_thumb.jpg" +alt="TROPICAL FOREST, TRINIDAD. +This has to be cleared before planting begins." +title="TROPICAL FOREST, TRINIDAD. +This has to be cleared before planting begins." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +TROPICAL FOREST, TRINIDAD. +This has to be cleared before planting begins. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Coconut plantations and sugar estates make a strong +appeal to the imagination, but for peaceful beauty they +cannot compare with the cacao plantation. True, coconut +plantations are very lovely—the palms are so graceful, +the leaves against the sky so like a fine etching—but +"the slender coco's drooping crown of plumes" +is altogether foreign to English eyes. Sugar estates are +generally marred by the prosaic factory in the background. +They are dead level plains, and the giant grass +<a name="page30" id="page30"></a> +affords no shade from the relentless sun. Whereas the +leaves of the cacao tree are large and numerous, so that +even in the heat of the day, it is comparatively cool and +pleasant under the cacao. +</p> + +<p> +Cacao plantations present in different countries +every variety of appearance—from that of a wild forest +in which the greater portion of the trees are cacao, to +the tidy and orderly plantation. In some of the Trinidad +plantations the trees are planted in parallel lines twelve +feet apart, with a tree every twelve feet along the line; +and as you push your way through the plantation the +apparently irregularly scattered trees are seen to flash +momentarily into long lines. In other parts of the world, +for example, in Grenada and Surinam, the ground may +be kept so tidy and free from weeds that they have the +appearance of gardens. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Clearing the Land.</i></h3> + +<p> +When the planter has chosen a suitable site, an exercise +requiring skill, the forest has to be cleared. The +felling of great trees and the clearing of the wild tangle +of undergrowth is arduous work. It is well to leave the +trees on the ridges for about sixty feet on either side, +and thus form a belt of trees to act as wind screen. +Cacao trees are as sensitive to a draught as some human +beings, and these "<i>wind breaks</i>" are often deliberately +grown—Balata, Poui, Mango (Trinidad), Galba +(Grenada), Wild Pois Doux (Martinique), and other +leafy trees being suitable for this purpose. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Suitable Soil.</i></h3> + +<p> +It was for many years believed that if a tree were +analysed the best soil for its growth could at once be +inferred and described, as it was assumed that the best +soil would be one containing the same elements in +similar proportions. This simple theory ignored the +characteristic powers of assimilation of the tree in +question and the "digestibility" of the soil constituents. +However, it is agreed that soils rich in potash and lime +<a name="page31" id="page31"></a> +<a name="page32" id="page32"></a> +(e.g., those obtained by the decomposition of certain +volcanic rocks) are good for cacao. An open sandy or +loamy alluvial soil is considered ideal. The physical +condition of the soil is equally important: heavy clays +or water-logged soils are bad. The depth of soil required +depends on its nature. A stiff soil discourages the +growth of the "tap" root, which in good porous soils +is generally seven or eight feet long.</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image13" id="image13"></a> +<a href="images/image013.jpg"> +<img src="images/image013_thumb.jpg" +alt="CHARACTERISTIC ROOT SYSTEM OF THE CACAO TREE. +Note the long tap root. +(Reproduced from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks +to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics, by permission.)" +title="CHARACTERISTIC ROOT SYSTEM OF THE CACAO TREE. +Note the long tap root. +(Reproduced from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks +to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics, by permission.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CHARACTERISTIC ROOT SYSTEM OF THE CACAO TREE.<br /> +Note the long tap root.<br /> +(Reproduced from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks +to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics, by permission.) +</p> +</div> + +<h3><i>Manure.</i></h3> + +<p> +The greater part of the world's cacao is produced +without the use of artificial manures. The soil, which is +continually washed down by the rains into the rivers, +is continually renewed by decomposition of the bed +rock, and in the tropics this decomposition is more +rapid than in temperate climes. In Guayaquil, "notwithstanding +the fact that the same soil has been cropped +consecutively for over a hundred years, there is as yet +no sign of decadence, nor does a necessity yet arise for +artificial manure."<a name="II-1m" id="II-1m" href="#II-1"><small>[1]</small></a> +However, manures are useful with +all soils, and necessary with many. Happy is the planter +who is so placed that he can obtain a plentiful supply +of farmyard or pen manure, as this gives excellent +results. "Mulching" is also recommended. This consists +of covering the ground with decaying leaves, +grasses, etc., which keep the soil in a moist and open +condition during the dry season. If artificial manures +are used they should vary according to the soil, and, +although he can obtain considerable help from the +analyst, the planter's most reliable guide will be experiment +on the spot. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Planting.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image14" id="image14"></a> +<a href="images/image014.jpg"> +<img src="images/image014_thumb.jpg" +alt="NURSERY, WITH THE YOUNG CACAO PLANTS IN BASKETS, JAVA. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, +by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." +title=" NURSERY, WITH THE YOUNG CACAO PLANTS IN BASKETS, JAVA. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, +by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +NURSERY, WITH THE YOUNG CACAO PLANTS IN BASKETS, JAVA.<br /> +(Reproduced from van Hall's <i>Cocoa</i>, +by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.). +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In the past insufficient care has been taken in <i>the +selection of seed</i>. The planter should choose the large +plump beans with a pale interior, or he should choose +the nearest kind to this that is sufficiently hardy to +thrive in the particular environment. He can plant +<a name="page33" id="page33"></a> +<a name="page34" id="page34"></a> +(1) direct from seeds, or (2) from seedlings—plants +raised in nurseries in bamboo pots, or (3) by grafting +or budding. It is usual to plant two or three seeds in +each hole, and destroy the weaker plants when about a +foot high. The seeds are planted from twelve to fifteen +feet apart. The distance chosen depends chiefly on the +richness of the soil; the richer the soil, the more ample +room is allowed for the trees to spread without choking +each other. Interesting results have been obtained by +Hart and others by grafting the fine but tender criollo +on to the hardy forastero, but until yesterday the practice +had not been tried on a large scale. Experiments +were begun in 1913 by Mr. W.G. Freeman in Trinidad +which promise interesting results. By 1919 the Department +of Agriculture had seven acres in grafted and +budded cacao. In a few years it should be possible to +<a name="page35" id="page35"></a> +<a name="page36" id="page36"></a> +say whether it pays to form an estate of budded cacao +in preference to using seedlings.</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image15" id="image15"></a> +<a href="images/image015.jpg"> +<img src="images/image015_thumb.jpg" +alt="PLANTING CACAO, TRINIDAD, FROM YOUNG +SEEDLINGS IN BAMBOO POTS." +title="PLANTING CACAO, TRINIDAD, FROM YOUNG +SEEDLINGS IN BAMBOO POTS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +PLANTING CACAO, TRINIDAD, FROM YOUNG +SEEDLINGS IN BAMBOO POTS. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +There are no longer any mystic rites performed +before planting. In the old days it was the custom to +solemnize the planting, for example, by sacrificing a +cacao-coloured dog (see Bancroft's <i>Native Races of the +Pacific States</i>.) +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image16" id="image16"></a> +<a href="images/image016.jpg"> +<img src="images/image016_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR (SAMOA)." +title="CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR (SAMOA)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO IN ITS FOURTH YEAR (SAMOA). +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Shade: Temporary and Permanent.</i></h3> + +<p> +When the seeds are planted, such small plants as +cassava, chillies, pigeon peas and the like are planted +with them. The object of planting these is to afford +the young cacao plant shelter from the sun, and to +keep the ground in good condition. Incidentally the +planter obtains cassava (which gives tapioca), red +peppers, etc., as a "catch crop" whilst he is waiting +for the cacao tree to begin to yield. Bananas and plantains +are planted with the same object, and these are +allowed to remain for a longer period. Such is the +rapidity of plant growth in the tropics that in three or +four years the cacao tree is taller than a man, and begins +to bear fruit in its fourth or fifth year. Now it is agreed +that, as with men, the cacao tree needs protection in its +youth, but whether it needs shade trees when it is fully +grown is one of the controverted questions. When the +planter is sitting after his day's work is done, and no +fresh topic comes to his mind, he often re-opens the +discussion on the question of shade. The idea that +cacao trees need shade is a very ancient one, as is +shown in a very old drawing (possibly the oldest drawing +of cacao extant) beneath which it is written: "Of +the tree which bears cacao, which is money, and how +the Indians obtained fire with two pieces of wood." +In this drawing you will observe how lovingly the shade +tree shelters the cacao. The intention in using shade +is to imitate the natural forest conditions in which the +wild cacao grew. Sometimes when clearing the forest +certain large trees are left standing, but more frequently +and with better judgment, chosen kinds are planted. +<a name="page37" id="page37"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image17" id="image17"></a> +<a href="images/image017.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image017_thumb.jpg" +alt="COPY OF AN OLD ENGRAVING SHOWING THE CACAO TREE, AND A TREE SHADING IT. +(From _Bontekoe's Works_.)" +title="COPY OF AN OLD ENGRAVING SHOWING THE CACAO TREE, AND A TREE SHADING IT. +(From _Bontekoe's Works_.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +COPY OF AN OLD ENGRAVING SHOWING THE CACAO TREE, +AND A TREE SHADING IT.<br /> +(From <i>Bontekoe's Works</i>.) +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image18" id="image18"></a> +<a href="images/image018.jpg"> +<img src="images/image018_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO TREES, SHADED BY KAPOK (_Eriodendron Anfractuosum_) IN JAVA. +(reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)" + +title="CACAO TREES, SHADED BY KAPOK (_Eriodendron Anfractuosum_) IN JAVA. +(reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO TREES, SHADED BY KAPOK (<i>Eriodendron Anfractuosum</i>) IN JAVA.<br /> +(reproduced from van Hall's <i>Cocoa</i>, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.) +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Many trees have been used: the saman, bread fruit, +mango, mammet, sand box, pois doux, rubber, etc. In +the illustration showing kapok acting as a parasol for +cacao in Java, we see that the proportion of shade trees +to cacao is high. Leguminous trees are preferred because +they conserve the nitrogen in the soil. Hence in +Trinidad the favourite shade tree is <i>Erythrina</i> or Bois +Immortel (so called, a humourist suggests, because it +is short-lived). It is also rather prettily named, "Mother +of Cacao." Usually the shade trees are planted about 40 +feet apart, but there are cacao plantations which might +cause a stranger to enquire, "Is this an Immortel +plantation?" so closely are these conspicuous trees +planted. When looking down a Trinidad valley, richly +planted with cacao, one sees in every direction the +silver-grey trunks of the Immortel. In the early months +<a name="page38" id="page38"></a> +of the year these trees have no leaves, they are a mass +of flame-coloured flowers, each "shafted like a scimitar." +It well repays the labour of climbing a hill to look +down on this vermilion glory. Some Trinidad planters +believe that their trees would die without shade, yet +in Grenada, only a hundred miles North as the steamer +sails, there are whole plantations without a single shade +tree. The Grenadians say: "You cannot have pods +without flowers, and you cannot have good flowering +without light and air." Shade trees are not used on +some estates in San Thomé, and in Brazil there are +cocoa kings with 200,000 trees without one shade tree. +It should be mentioned, however, that in these countries +the cacao trees are planted more closely (about +eight feet apart) and themselves shade the soil. Professor +Carmody, in reporting<a name="II-2m" id="II-2m" href="#II-2"><small>[2]</small></a> +recently on the result +of a four years' experiment with (1) shade, (2) no +<a name="page39" id="page39"></a> +<a name="page40" id="page40"></a> +shade, (3) partial shade, says that so far partial shade +has given the best results. No general solution has yet +been found to the question of the advantage of shade, +and, as Shaw states for morality, so in agriculture, "the +golden rule is that there is no golden rule." Not only +is there the personal factor, but nature provides an +infinite variety of environments, and the best results +are obtained by the use of methods appropriate to the +local conditions.</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image19" id="image19"></a> +<a href="images/image019.jpg"> +<img src="images/image019_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO TREES, SHADED BY BOIS IMMORTEL, TRINIDAD." +title="CACAO TREES, SHADED BY BOIS IMMORTEL, TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO TREES, SHADED BY BOIS IMMORTEL, TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Form of Tree-growth Desired: Suckers.</i></h3> + +<p> +Viscount Mountmorres, in a delightfully clear exposition +of cacao cultivation which he gave to the +native farmers and chiefs of the Gold Coast in 1906, +said: "In pruning, it is necessary always to bear in +mind that the best shape for cacao trees is that of an +enlarged open umbrella," with a height under the +umbrella not exceeding seven feet. With this ideal in +his mind, the planter should train up the tree in the +way it should go. Viscount Mountmorres also said +that everything that grows upwards, except the main +stem, must be cut off. +</p> + +<p> +This opens a question which is of great interest to +planters as to whether it is wise to allow shoots to grow +out from the main trunk near the ground. Some hold +that the high yield on their plantation is due to letting +these upright shoots grow. "Mi Amigo Corsicano +said: 'Diavolo, let the cacao-trees grow, let them +branch off like any other fruit-tree, say the tamarind, +the 'chupon' or sucker will in time bear more than its +mother.'"<a name="II-3m" id="II-3m" href="#II-3"><small>[3]</small></a> +There seems to be some evidence that <i>old</i> +trees profit from the "chupons" because they continue +to bear when the old trunk is weary, but this is compensated +for by the fact that the "chupons" (Portuguese +for suckers) were grown at the expense of the tree in +its youth. Hence other planters call them "thieves," +and "gormandizers," saying that they suck the sap +from the tree, turning all to wood. They follow the +<a name="page41" id="page41"></a> +advice given as early as 1730 by the author of <i>The +Natural History of Chocolate</i>, when he says: "Cut or +lop off the suckers." In Trinidad, experiments have +been started, and after a five years' test, Professor +Carmody says that the indications are that it is a +matter of indifference whether "chupons" are allowed to +grow or not. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image20" id="image20"></a> +<a href="images/image020.jpg"> +<img src="images/image020_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO TREE, WITH SUCKERS, TRINIDAD." +title="CACAO TREE, WITH SUCKERS, TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO TREE, WITH SUCKERS, TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +After hunting, agriculture is man's oldest industry, +and improvements come but slowly, for the proving +of a theory often requires work on a huge scale carried +<a name="page42" id="page42"></a> +out for several decades. The husbandry of the earth +goes on from century to century with little change, +and the methods followed are the winnowings of experience, +tempered with indolence. And even with +the bewildering progress of science in other directions, +sound improvements in this field are rare discoveries. +There is great scope for the application of physical +and chemical knowledge to the production of the raw +materials of the tropics. In one or two instances +notable advances have been made, thus the direct production +of a white sugar (as now practised at Java) at +the tropical factory will have far-reaching effects, but +with many tropical products the methods practised +are as ancient as they are haphazard. Like all methods +founded on long experience, they suit the environment +and the temperament of the people who use them, so +that the work of the scientist in introducing improvements +requires intimate knowledge of the conditions +if his suggestions are to be adopted. The various Departments +of Agriculture are doing splendid pioneer +work, but the full harvest of their sowing will not be +reaped until the number of tropically-educated agriculturists +has been increased by the founding of three +or four agricultural colleges and research laboratories +in equatorial regions. +</p> + +<p> +There is much research to be done. As yet, however, +many planters are ignorant of all that is already established, +the facilities for education in tropical agriculture +being few and far between. There are signs, +however, of development in this direction. It is pleasant +to note that a start was made in Ceylon at the end of +1917 by opening an agricultural school at Peradenija. +Trinidad has for a number of years had an agricultural +school, and is eager to have a college devoted to +agriculture. In 1919, Messrs. Cadbury Bros. gave +£5000 to form the nucleus of a special educational +fund for the Gold Coast. The scientists attached to the +several government agricultural departments in Java, +Ceylon, Trinidad, the Philippines, Africa, etc., have +<a name="page43" id="page43"></a>done splendid work, but it is desirable that the number +of workers should be increased. When the world +wakes up to the importance of tropical produce, agricultural +colleges will be scattered about the tropics, +so that every would-be planter can learn his subject +on the spot. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image21" id="image21"></a> +<a href="images/image021.jpg"> +<img src="images/image021_thumb.jpg" +alt="CUTLASSING." +title="CUTLASSING." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CUTLASSING. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Diseases of the Cacao Tree.</i></h3> + +<p> +Take, for example, the case of the diseases of plants. +Everyone who takes an interest in the garden knows +how destructive the insect pests and vegetable parasites +can be. In the tropics their power for destruction is +very great, and they are a constant menace to economic +products like cacao. The importance of understanding +their habits, and of studying methods of keeping them +in check, is readily appreciated; the planter may be +ruined by lacking this knowledge. +</p> + +<p> +<a name="page44" id="page44"></a> +The cacao tree has been improved and "domesticated" +to satisfy human requirements, a process which +has rendered it weaker to resist attacks from pests and +parasites. It is usual to classify man amongst the pests, +as either from ignorance or by careless handling he +can do the tree much harm. Other animal pests are the +wanton thieves: monkeys, squirrels and rats, who +destroy more fruit than they consume. The insect +pests include varieties of beetles, thrips, aphides, scale +insects and ants, whilst fungi are the cause of the +"Canker" in the stem and branches, the "Witch-broom" +disease in twigs and leaves, and the "Black +Rot" of pods. +</p> + +<p> +The subject is too immense to be summarised in a +few lines, and I recommend readers who wish to know +more of this or other division of the science of cacao +cultivation, to consult one or more of the four classics +in English on this subject: +</p> + +<ul class="plain"> +<li><i>Cocoa</i>, by Herbert Wright (Ceylon), 1907.</li> +<li><i>Cacao</i>, by J. Hinchley Hart (Trinidad), 1911.</li> +<li><i>Cocoa</i>, by W.H. Johnson (Nigeria), 1912.</li> +<li><i>Cocoa</i>, by C.J.J. van Hall (Java), 1914.</li> +</ul> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="II-1" id="II-1" href="#II-1m">[1]</a> <i>Bulletin</i>, Botanic Dept., Jamaica, February, 1900. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="II-2" id="II-2" href="#II-2m">[2]</a> <i>Bulletin</i> Dept. of Agriculture, Trinidad, 1916. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="II-3" id="II-3" href="#II-3m">[3]</a> "<i>How José formed his Cocoa Estate.</i>" +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page45" id="page45"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter3" id="chapter3">CHAPTER III</a></h2> + +<h3>HARVESTING AND PREPARATION FOR THE +MARKET</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +The picking, gathering, and breaking of the cacao are +the easiest jobs on the plantation. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +"<i>How José formed his Cocoa Estate.</i>" +</div> + + +<h3><i>Gathering and Heaping.</i></h3> + + +<p> +<span class="rig"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image022_thumb.jpg" +alt="Cocoa plant and picker." +title="Cocoa plant and picker." /> +</span> + +In the last chapter I gave a brief account of the cultivation +of cacao. I did not deal with forking, spraying, +cutlassing, weeding, and so forth, as it would +lead us too far into +purely technical +discussions. I propose +we assume +that the planter has +managed his estate +well, and that the +plantation is before +us looking very +healthy and full of +fruit waiting to be +picked. The question +arises: How +shall we gather it? +Shall we shake the tree? Cacao pods do not fall +off the tree even when over-ripe. Shall we knock off +or pluck the pods? To do so would make a scar on the +trunk of the tree, and these wounds are dangerous in +tropical climates, as they are often attacked by canker. +A sharp machete or cutlass is used to cut off the pods +which grow on the lower part of the trunk. As the tree +is not often strong enough to bear a man, climbing is +<a name="page46" id="page46"></a> +out of the question, +and a knife on a pole +is used for cutting off +the pods on the upper +branches. Various +shaped knives are used +by different planters, a +common and efficient +kind (see drawing), +resembles a hand of +steel, with the thumb +as a hook, so that the +pod-stalk can be cut +either by a push or a +pull. A good deal of +ingenuity has been +expended in devising +a "foolproof" picker +which shall render +easy the cutting of +the pod-stalk and yet +not cut or damage the +bark of the tree. A +good example is the +Agostini picker, which +was approved by +Hart. +</p> + +<div class="lef"> +<a name="image23" id="image23"></a> +<a href="images/image023.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image023_thumb.jpg" +alt="(1) COMMON TYPE OF CACAO PICKER. +(2) AGOSTINI CACAO PICKER." +title="(1) COMMON TYPE OF CACAO PICKER. +(2) AGOSTINI CACAO PICKER." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +(1) COMMON TYPE OF CACAO PICKER.<br /> +(2) AGOSTINI CACAO PICKER. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The gathering of +the fruits of one's +labour is a pleasant +task, which occurs +generally only at rare +intervals. Cacao is +gathered the whole +year round. There is, +however, in most districts +one principal +harvest period, and +a subsidiary harvest. +<a name="page47" id="page47"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image24" id="image24"></a> +<a href="images/image024.jpg"> +<img src="images/image024_thumb.jpg" +alt="GATHERING CACAO PODS, TRINIDAD." +title="GATHERING CACAO PODS, TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +GATHERING CACAO PODS, TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +<a name="page48" id="page48"></a> +With cacao in the tropics, as with corn in England, +the gathering of the harvest is a delight to lovers of the +beautiful. It is a great charm of the cacao plantation +that the trees are so closely planted that nowhere +does the sunlight find between the foliage a space +larger than a man's hand. After the universal glare +outside, it seems dark under the cacao, although the +ground is bright with dappled sunshine. You hear a +noise of talking, of rustling leaves, and falling pods. +You come upon a band of coolies or negroes. +One near you carries a long bamboo—as long as a +fishing rod—with a knife at the end. With a lithe +movement he inserts it between the boughs, and, by +giving it a sharp jerk, neatly cuts the stalk of a pod, +which falls from the tree to the ground. Only the ripe +pods must be picked. To do this, not only must the +picker's aim be true, but he must also have a good eye +for colour. Whether the pods be red or green, as soon +as the colour begins to be tinted with yellow it is ripe +for picking. This change occurs first along the furrows +in the pod. Fewer unripe pods would be gathered if +only one kind of pod were grown on one plantation. +The confusion of kinds and colours which is often +found makes sound judgment very difficult. That the +men generally judge correctly the ripeness of pods +high in the trees is something to wonder at. The pickers +pass on, strewing the earth with ripe pods. They are +followed by the graceful, dark-skinned girls, who gather +one by one the fallen pods from the greenery, until +their baskets are full. Sometimes a basketful is too heavy +and the girl cannot comfortably lift it on to her head, +but when one of the men has helped her to place it +there, she carries it lightly enough. She trips through +the trees, her bracelets jingling, and tumbles the pods +on to the heap. Once one has seen a great heap of +cacao pods it glows in one's memory: anything +more rich, more daring in the way of colour one's +eye is unlikely to light on. The artist, seeking only +an æsthetic effect would be content with this for the +<a name="page49" id="page49"></a> +<a name="page50" id="page50"></a> +consummation and would wish the pods to remain +unbroken. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image25" id="image25"></a> +<a href="images/image025.jpg"> +<img src="images/image025_thumb.jpg" +alt="COLLECTING CACAO PODS INTO A HEAP PRIOR TO BREAKING." +title="COLLECTING CACAO PODS INTO A HEAP PRIOR TO BREAKING." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +COLLECTING CACAO PODS INTO A HEAP PRIOR TO BREAKING. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Breaking and Extracting.</i></h3> + +<p> +There are planters who believe that the product is +improved by leaving the gathered pods several days +before breaking; and they would follow the practice, +but for the risk of losses by theft. Hence the pods are +generally broken on the same day as they are gathered. +The primitive methods of breaking with a club or by +banging on a hard surface are happily little used. +Masson of New York made pod-breaking machines, +and Sir George Watt has recently invented an ingenious +machine for squeezing the beans out of the +pod, but at present the extraction is done almost +universally by hand, either by men or women. A +knife which would cut the husk of the pod and was so +constructed that it could not injure the beans within, +would be a useful invention. The human extractor has +the advantage that he or she can distinguish the +diseased, unripe or germinated beans and separate +them from the good ones. Picture the men sitting +round the heap of pods and, farther out, in a larger +circle, twice as many girls with baskets. The man +breaks the pod and the girls extract the beans. The +man takes the pod in his left hand and gives it a sharp +slash with a small cutlass, just cutting through the +tough shell of the pod, but not into the beans inside; +and then gives the blade, which he has embedded in +the shell, a twisting jerk, so that the pod breaks in two +with a crisp crack. The girls take the broken pods and +scoop out the snow-like beans with a flat wooden spoon +or a piece of rib-bone, the beans being pulled off the +stringy core (or placenta) which holds them together. +The beans are put preferably into baskets or, failing +these, on to broad banana leaves, which are used as trays. +</p> + +<p> +Practice renders these processes cheerful and easy +work, often performed to an accompaniment of laughing +and chattering. +<a name="page51" id="page51"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image26" id="image26"></a> +<a href="images/image026.jpg"> +<img src="images/image026_thumb.jpg" +alt="MEN BREAKING PODS, GIRLS SCOOPING OUT BEANS, +AND MULES WAITING WITH BASKETS TO CONVEY THE CACAO TO THE FERMENTARY." +title="MEN BREAKING PODS, GIRLS SCOOPING OUT BEANS, +AND MULES WAITING WITH BASKETS TO CONVEY THE CACAO TO THE FERMENTARY." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +MEN BREAKING PODS, GIRLS SCOOPING OUT BEANS, AND MULES WAITING WITH BASKETS +TO CONVEY THE CACAO TO THE FERMENTARY. +</p> +<a name="page52" id="page52"></a> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Fermenting.</i></h3> + +<p> +I allow myself the pleasure of thinking that I am +causing some of my readers a little surprise when I +tell them that cacao is fermented, and that the fermentation +produces alcohol. As I mentioned above, +the cacao bean is covered with a fruity pulp. The bean +as it comes from the pod is moist, whilst the pulp is +full of juice. It would be impossible to convey it to +Europe in this condition; it would decompose, and, +when it reached its destination, would be worthless. +In order that a product can be handled commercially +it is desirable to have it in such a condition that it does +not change, and thus with cacao it becomes necessary +to get rid of the pulp, and, whilst this may be done by +washing or simply by drying, experience has shown +that the finest and driest product is obtained when +the drying is preceded by fermentation. Just as broken +grapes will ferment, so will the fruity pulp of the cacao +bean. Present day fermentaries are simply convenient +places for storing the cacao whilst the process goes +on. In the process of fermentation, Dr. Chittenden +says the beans are "stewed in their own juice." +This may be expressed less picturesquely but more +accurately by saying the beans are warmed by the +heat of their own fermenting pulp, from which they +absorb liquid. +</p> + +<p> +In Trinidad the cacao which the girls have scooped +out into the baskets is emptied into larger baskets, +two of which are "crooked" on a mule's back, and +carried thus to the fermentary. In Surinam it is conveyed +by boat, and in San Thomé by trucks, which +run on Decauville railways. +</p> + +<p> +The period of fermentation and the receptacle to +hold the cacao vary from country to country. With +cacao of the criollo type only one or two days fermentation +is required, and as a result, in Ecuador and Ceylon, +the cacao is simply put in heaps on a suitable floor. +In Trinidad and the majority of other cacao-producing +<a name="page53" id="page53"></a> +areas, where the forastero variety predominates, +from five to nine days are required. The cacao is +put into the "sweat" boxes and covered with banana +or plantain leaves to keep in the heat. The boxes may +measure four feet each way and be made of sweet-smelling +cedar wood. As is usual with fermentation, +the temperature begins to rise, and if you thrust your +hands into the fermenting beans you find they are as +hot and mucilaginous as a poultice. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image27" id="image27"></a> +<a href="images/image027.jpg"> +<img src="images/image027_thumb.jpg" +alt=""SWEATING" BOXES, TRINIDAD. +The man is holding the wooden spade used for turning the beans." +title=""SWEATING" BOXES, TRINIDAD. +The man is holding the wooden spade used for turning the beans." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +"SWEATING" BOXES, TRINIDAD.<br /> +The man is holding the wooden spade used for turning +the beans. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center"><i>Time.</i></td><td> </td><td align="center"><i>Temperature.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">When put in</td><td> </td><td align="center">25° C. or 77° F.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">After 1 day</td><td> </td><td align="center">30° C. or 89° F.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">After 2 days</td><td> </td><td align="center">37° C. or 98° F.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">After 3 days</td><td> </td><td align="center">47° C. or 115° F.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="3">(After the third day the heat is maintained, but the temperature rises +very little.)</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The temperature is the simplest guide to the amount +of fermentation taking place, and the uniformity of +the temperature in all parts of the mass is desirable, +as showing that all parts are fermenting evenly. The +<a name="page54" id="page54"></a> +cacao is usually shovelled from one box to another every +one or two days. The chief object of this operation is +to mix the cacao and prevent merely local fermentation. +To make mixing easy one ingenious planter uses +a cylindrical vessel which can be turned about on its +axis. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image28" id="image28"></a> +<a href="images/image028.jpg"> +<img src="images/image028_thumb.jpg" +alt="FERMENTING BOXES, JAVA. +From the last box the beans are shovelled into the washing basin. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)" +title="FERMENTING BOXES, JAVA. +From the last box the beans are shovelled into the washing basin. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +FERMENTING BOXES, JAVA. From the last box the beans are shovelled into the washing basin.<br /> +(Reproduced from van Hall's <i>Cocoa</i>, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.) +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In other places, for example in Java, the boxes are +arranged as a series of steps, so that the cacao is transferred +with little labour from the higher to the lower. +In San Thomé the cacao is placed on the plantation +direct into trucks, which are covered with plaintain +leaves, and run on rails through the plantation right +into the fermentary. Some day some enterprising +firm will build a fermentary in portable sections easily +erected, and with some simple mechanical mixer to +<a name="page55" id="page55"></a> +replace the present laborious method of turning the +beans by manual labour. +</p> + +<p> +The general conditions<a name="III-1m" id="III-1m" href="#III-1"><small>[1]</small></a> +for a good fermentation +are: +</p> + +<ol> +<li>The mass of beans must be kept warm.</li> +<li>The mass of beans must be moist, but not +sodden.</li> +<li>In the later stages there must be sufficient air.</li> +<li>The boxes must be kept clean.</li> +</ol> + + +<h3><i>Changes during Fermentation.</i></h3> + +<p> +No entirely satisfactory theory of the changes in +cacao due to fermentation has yet been established. It +is known that the sugary pulp outside the beans ferments +in a similar way to other fruit pulp, save that +for a yeast fermentation the temperature rises unusually +high (in three days to 47 degrees C.), and also +that there are parallel and more important changes in +the interior of the bean. The difficulty of establishing +a complete theory of fermentation of cacao has not +daunted the scientists, for they know that the roses of +philosophy are gathered by just those who can grasp +the thorniest problems. Success, however, is so far +only partial, as can be seen by consulting the best introduction +on the subject, the admirable collection of +essays on <i>The Fermentation of Cacao</i>, edited by +H. Hamel Smith. Here the reader will find the valuable +contributions of Fickendey, Loew, Nicholls, Preyer, +Schulte im Hofe, and Sack. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image29" id="image29"></a> +<a href="images/image029.jpg"> +<img src="images/image029_thumb.jpg" +alt="CHARGING THE CACAO ON TO TRUCKS IN THE PLANTATION, SAN THOMÉ." +title="CHARGING THE CACAO ON TO TRUCKS IN THE PLANTATION, SAN THOMÉ." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CHARGING THE CACAO ON TO TRUCKS IN THE PLANTATION, SAN THOMÉ. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The obvious changes which occur in the breaking +down of the fruity exterior of the bean should be carefully +distinguished from the subtle changes in the bean +itself. Let us consider them separately:— +</p> + +<p> +(<i>a</i>) <i>Changes in the Pulp.</i>—Just as grape-pulp ferments +and changes to wine, and just as weak wine if +left exposed becomes sour; so the fruity sugary pulp +<a name="page56" id="page56"></a> +<a name="page57" id="page57"></a> +outside the cacao bean on exposure gives off bubbles +of carbon dioxide, becomes alcoholic, and later becomes +acid. The acid produced is generally the pleasant +vinegar acid (acetic acid), but under some circumstances +it may be lactic acid, or the rancid-smelling butyric +acid. Kismet! The planter trusts to nature to provide +the right kind of fermentation. This fermentation is +set up and carried on by the minute organisms (yeasts, +bacteria, etc.), which chance to fall on the beans from +the air or come from the sides of the receptacle. One +yeast-cell does not make a fermentation, and as no yeast +is added a day is wasted whilst any yeasts which happen +to be present are multiplying to an army large enough +to produce a visible effect on the pulp. <i>Any</i> organism +which happens to be on the pod, in the air, or on the +inside of the fermentary will multiply in the pulp, if +the pulp contains suitable nourishment. Each kind of +organism produces its own characteristic changes. It +would thus appear a miracle if the same substances +were always produced. Yet, just as grape-juice left +exposed to every micro-organism of the air, generally +changes in the direction of wine more or less good, so +the pulp of cacao tends, broadly speaking, to ferment +in one way. It would, however, be a serious error to +assume that exactly the same kind of fermentation +takes place in any two fermentaries in the world, and +the maximum variation must be considerable. As the +pulp ferments, it is destroyed; it gradually changes +from white to brown, and a liquid ("sweatings") +flows away from it. The "<i>sweatings</i>" taste like sweet +cider. At present this is allowed to run away through +holes in the bottom of the box, and no care is taken to +preserve what may yet become a valuable by-product. +I found by experiment that in the preparation of one +cwt. of dry beans about 1-1/2 gallons of this unstable +liquid are produced. In other words, some seven or +eight million gallons of "sweatings" run to waste +every year. In most cases only small quantities are +produced in one place at one time. This, and the lack +<a name="page58" id="page58"></a> +of knowledge of scientifically controlled fermentation, +and the difficulty of bottling, prevent the starting of +an industry producing either a new drink or a vinegar. +The cacao juice or "sweatings" contains about fifteen +per cent. of solids, about half of which consists of sugars. +If the fermentation of the cacao were centralised in the +various districts, and conducted on a large scale under +a chemist's control, the sugars could be obtained, or +an alcoholic liquid or a vinegar could easily be prepared. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image30" id="image30"></a> +<a href="images/image030.jpg"> +<img src="images/image030_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO IN THE FERMENTING TRUCKS, SAN THOMÉ. +The covering of banana leaves keeps the beans warm." +title="CACAO IN THE FERMENTING TRUCKS, SAN THOMÉ. +The covering of banana leaves keeps the beans warm." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO IN THE FERMENTING TRUCKS, SAN THOMÉ.<br /> +The covering of banana leaves keeps the beans warm. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The planter decides when the beans are fermented +by simply looking at them; he judges their condition +by the colour of the pulp. When they are ready to be +removed from the fermentary they are plump, and +brown without, and juicy within. +<a name="page59" id="page59"></a> +</p> + +<p> +(<i>b</i>) <i>Changes in the Interior of the Bean.</i>—What is +the relation between the comparatively simple fermentation +of the pulp and the changes in the interior +of the bean? This important question has not yet been +answered, although a number of attempts have been +made. +</p> + +<p> +As far as is known, the living ferments (micro-organisms) +do not penetrate the skin of the bean, so +that any fermentation which takes place must be +promoted by unorganised ferments (or enzymes). Mr. +H.C. Brill<a name="III-2m" id="III-2m" href="#III-2"><small>[2]</small></a> +found raffinase, invertase, casease and +protease in the pulp; oxidase, raffinase, casease and +emulsinlike enzymes in the fresh bean; and all these +six, together with diastase, in the fermented bean. Dr. +Fickendey says: "The object of fermentation is, in +the main, to kill the germ of the bean in such a manner +that the efficiency of the unorganised ferment is in no +way impaired." +</p> + +<p> +From my own observations I believe that forastero +beans are killed at 47 degrees C. (which is commonly +reached when they have been fermenting 60 hours), +for a remarkable change takes place at this temperature +and time. Whilst the micro-organisms remain outside, +the juice of the pulp appears to penetrate not only the +skin, but the flesh of the bean, and the brilliant violet +in the isolated pigment cells becomes diffused more +or less evenly throughout the entire bean, including +the "germ." It is certain that the bean absorbs liquid +from the outside, for it becomes so plump that its skin +is stretched to the utmost. The following changes occur: +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p> +(1) <i>Taste.</i> An astringent colourless substance (a tannin or a body +possessing many properties of a tannin) changes to a tasteless +brown substance. The bean begins to taste less astringent as +the "tannin" is destroyed. With white (criollo) beans this +change is sufficiently advanced in two days, but with purple +(forastero) beans it may take seven days. +</p> + +<p> +(2) <i>Colour.</i> The change in the tannin results in the white (criollo) +beans becoming brown and the purple (forastero) beans becoming +<a name="page60" id="page60"></a> +tinged with brown. The action resembles the browning +of a freshly-cut apple, and has been shown to be due to +oxygen (activated by an oxidase, a ferment encouraging combination +with oxygen) acting on the astringent colourless +substance, which, like the photographic developer, pyrogallic +acid, becomes brown on oxidation. +</p> + +<p> +(3) <i>Aroma.</i> A notable change is that substances are created within +the bean, which <i>on roasting</i> produce the fine aromatic odour +characteristic of cocoa and chocolate, and which Messrs. +Bainbridge and Davies have shown is due to a trace (0.001 +per cent.) of an essential oil over half of which consists of +linalool.<a name="III-3m" id="III-3m" href="#III-3"><small>[3]</small></a> +</p> + +<p> +(4) <i>Stimulating Effect.</i> It is commonly stated that during +fermentation there is generated theobromine, the alkaloid which +gives cacao its stimulating properties, but the estimation of +theobromine in fermented and unfermented beans does not +support this. +</p> + +<p> +(5) <i>Consistency.</i> Fermented beans become crisp on drying. This +development may be due to the "tannins" encountering, in +their dispersion through the bean, proteins, which are thus +converted into bodies which are brittle solids on drying (compare +tanning of hides). The "hide" of the bean may be +similarly "tanned"—the shell certainly becomes leathery +(unless washed)—but a far more probable explanation, in +both cases, is that the gummy bodies in bean and shell set +hard on drying. +</p></div> + +<p> +We see, then, that although fermentation was probably +originally followed as the best method of getting +rid of the pulp, it has other effects which are entirely +good. It enables the planter to produce a drier bean, +and one which has, when roasted, a finer flavour, colour, +and aroma, than the unfermented. Fermentation is +generally considered to produce so many desirable +results that M. Perrot's suggestion<a name="III-4m" id="III-4m" href="#III-4"><small>[4]</small></a> +of removing the +pulp by treatment with alkali, and thus avoiding fermentation, +has not been enthusiastically received. +</p> + +<p> +Beans which have been dried direct and those which +have been fermented may be distinguished as follows: +<a name="page61" id="page61"></a> +</p> + +<h3>CACAO BEANS</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td class="bb"> </td><td align="center" class="bb bl">DRIED DIRECT.</td> +<td align="center" class="bb bl">FERMENTED AND DRIED.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Shape of bean</i></td><td align="center" class="bl">Flat</td> +<td align="center" class="bl">Plumper</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Shell</i></td><td align="center" class="bl">Soft and close fitting</td> +<td align="center" class="bl">Crisp and more or less free.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Interior: colour</i></td><td align="center" class="bl">Slate-blue or mud-brown</td> +<td align="center" class="bl">Bright browns and purples</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"> " <i>consistence</i></td> +<td align="center" class="bl">Leather to cheese</td><td align="center" class="bl">Crisp</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"> " <i>appearance</i></td> +<td align="center" class="bl">Solid</td><td align="center" class="bl">Open-grained</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" class="bb"> " <i>taste</i></td> +<td align="center" class="bb bl">More or less bitter or astringent</td> +<td align="center" class="bb bl">Less astringent</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +Whilst several effects of fermentation have not been +satisfactorily accounted for, I think all are agreed that +to obtain one of the chief effects of fermentation, +namely the brown colour, oxidation is necessary. All +recognise that for this oxidation the presence of three +substances is essential: +</p> + +<ol> +<li>The tannin to be oxidised.</li> +<li>Oxygen.</li> +<li>An enzyme which encourages the oxidation.</li> +</ol> + +<p> +All these occur in the cacao bean as it comes from the +pod, but why oxidation occurs so much better in a +fermented bean than in a bean which is simply dried +is not very clear. If you cut an apple it goes brown +owing to the action of oxygen absorbed from the air, +but as long as the apple is uncut and unbruised it +remains white. If you take a cacao bean from the pod +and cut it, the exposed surface goes brown, but if you +ferment the bean the whole of it gradually goes brown +without being cut. My observations lead me to believe +that the bean does not become oxidised until it is +killed, that is, until it is no longer capable of germination. +It can be killed by raising the temperature, by +fermentation or otherwise, or as Dr. Fickendey has +shown, by cooling to almost freezing temperatures. It +may be that killing the bean makes its skin and cell +walls more permeable to oxygen, but my theory is +that when the bean is killed disintegration or weakening +of the cell walls, etc., occurs, and, as a result, the +<a name="page62" id="page62"></a> +enzyme and tannin, <i>hitherto separate</i>, become mixed, +and hence able actively to absorb oxygen. The action +of oxygen on the tannin also accounts for the loss of +astringency on fermentation, and it may be well to +point out that fermentation increases the internal surface +of the bean exposed to air and oxygen. The bean, +during fermentation, actually sucks in liquid from the +surrounding pulp and becomes plumper and fuller. +On drying, however, the skin, which has been expanded +to its utmost, wrinkles up as the interior contracts +and no longer fits tightly to the bean, and the +cotyledons having been thrust apart by the liquid, +no longer hold together so closely. This accounts for +the open appearance of a fermented bean. As on drying +large interspaces are produced, these allow the air to +circulate more freely and expose a greater surface of +the bean to the action of oxygen. Since the liquids in all +living matter presumably contain some dissolved +oxygen, the problem is to account for the fact that the +tannin in the unfermented bean remains unoxidised, +whilst that in the fermented bean is easily oxidised. +The above affords a partial explanation, and seems +fairly satisfactory when taken with my previous suggestion, +namely, that during fermentation the bean is +rendered pervious to water, which, on distributing +itself throughout the bean, dissolves the isolated masses +of tannin and diffuses it evenly, so that it encounters +and becomes mixed with the enzymes. From this it +will be evident that the major part of the oxidation of +the tannin occurs during drying, and hence the importance +of this, both from the point of view of the +keeping properties of the cacao, and its colour, taste +and aroma. +</p> + +<p> +It will be realised from the above that there is still +a vast amount of work to be done before the chemist +will be in a position to obtain the more desirable +aromas and flavours. Having found the necessary +conditions, scientifically trained overseers will be required +to produce them, and for this they will need +<a name="page63" id="page63"></a> +to have under their direction arrangements for fermentation +designed on correct principles and allowing +some degree of control. Whilst improvements are +always possible in the approach to perfection, it must +be admitted that, considering the means at their disposal, +the planters produce a remarkably fine product. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image31" id="image31"></a> +<a href="images/image031.jpg"> +<img src="images/image031_thumb.jpg" +alt="FOR DRYING SMALL QUANTITIES. +A simple tray-barrow, which can be run under the house when rain comes on." +title="FOR DRYING SMALL QUANTITIES. +A simple tray-barrow, which can be run under the house when rain comes on." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +FOR DRYING SMALL QUANTITIES.<br /> +A simple tray-barrow, which can be run under the house when rain comes on. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Loss on Fermenting and Drying.</i></h3> + +<p> +The fermented cacao is conveyed from the fermentary +to the drying trays or floors. The planter often has +some rough check-weighing system. Thus, for example, +he notes the number of standard baskets of +wet cacao put into the fermentary, and he measures the +fermented cacao produced with the help of a bottomless +barrel. By this means he finds that on fermentation +the beans lose weight by the draining away of the +"sweatings," according to the amount and juiciness of +the pulp round them. The beans are still very wet, and +on drying lose a high percentage of their moisture by +evaporation before the cacao bean of commerce is +obtained. +<a name="page64" id="page64"></a> +</p> + +<p> +The average losses may be tabulated thus: +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Weight of wet cacao from pod</td><td align="right">100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Loss on fermentation</td><td align="right">20 to 25</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Loss on drying</td><td align="right" class="bb">40</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao beans of commerce obtained</td><td align="right">35 to 40</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image32" id="image32"></a> +<a href="images/image032.jpg"> +<img src="images/image032_thumb.jpg" +alt="SPREADING THE CACAO BEANS ON MATS TO DRY IN THE SUN, CEYLON." +title="SPREADING THE CACAO BEANS ON MATS TO DRY IN THE SUN, CEYLON." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SPREADING THE CACAO BEANS ON MATS TO DRY IN THE SUN, CEYLON. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The drying of cacao is an art. On the one hand it is +necessary to get the beans quite dry (that is, in a condition +in which they hold only their normal amount of +water—5 to 7 per cent.) or they will be liable to go +mouldy. On the other hand, the husk or shell of the +bean must not be allowed to become burned or brittle. +Brittle shells produce waste in packing and handling, +and broken shells allow grubs and mould to enter the +beans when the cacao is stored. The method of drying +varies in different countries according to the climate. +José says: "In the wet season when 'Father Sol' +chooses to lie low behind the clouds for days and your +cocoa house is full, your curing house full, your trees +<a name="page65" id="page65"></a> +<a name="page66" id="page66"></a> +loaded, then is the time to put on his mettle the energetic +and practical planter. In such tight corners, <i>amigo</i>, +I have known a friend to set a fire under his cocoa +house to keep the cocoa on the top somewhat warm. +Another friend's plan (and he recommended it) was to +address his patron saint on such occasions. He never +addressed that saint at other times." +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image33" id="image33"></a> +<a href="images/image033.jpg"> +<img src="images/image033_thumb.jpg" +alt="DRYING TRAYS, GRENADA. +The trays slide on rails. The corrugated iron roofs will slide over the whole to protect from rain." +title="DRYING TRAYS, GRENADA. +The trays slide on rails. The corrugated iron roofs will slide over the whole to protect from rain." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DRYING TRAYS, GRENADA.<br /> +The trays slide on rails. The corrugated iron roofs will slide over the whole to protect from rain. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In most producing areas sun-drying is preferred, +but in countries where much rain falls, artificial dryers +are slowly but surely coming into vogue. These vary +in pattern from simple heated rooms, with shelves, to +vacuum stoves and revolving drums. The sellers of +these machines will agree with me when I say that +every progressive planter ought to have one of these +artificial aids to use during those depressing periods +when the rain continually streams from the sky. On +fine days it is difficult to prevent mildew appearing on +the cacao, but at such times it is impossible. However, +whenever available, the sun's heat is preferable, for it +encourages a slow and even drying, which lasts over +a period of about three days. As Dr. Paul Preuss says: +"II faut éviter une dessiccation trop rapide. Le cacao +ne peut être séché en moins de trois jours." +<a name="III-5m" id="III-5m" href="#III-5"><small>[5]</small></a> Further, +most observers agree with Dr. Sack that the valuable +changes, which occur during fermentation, continue during +drying, especially those in which oxygen assists. The +full advantage of these is lost if the temperature used +is high enough to kill the enzymes, or if the drying is too +rapid, both of which may occur with artificial drying. +</p> + +<p> +Sun-drying is done on cement or brick floors, on +coir mats or trays, or on wooden platforms. In order +to dry the cacao uniformly it is raked over and over +in the sun. It must be tenderly treated, carefully +"watched and caressed," until the interior becomes +quite crisp and in colour a beautiful brown. +</p> + +<p> +Sometimes the platforms are built on the top of the +fermentaries, the cacao being conveyed through a hole +in the roof of the fermentary to the drying platform. +<a name="page67" id="page67"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image34" id="image34"></a> +<a href="images/image034.jpg"> +<img src="images/image034_thumb.jpg" +alt=""HAMEL-SMITH" ROTARY DRYER. +(Made by Messrs. David Bridge and Co., Manchester)." +title=""HAMEL-SMITH" ROTARY DRYER. +(Made by Messrs. David Bridge and Co., Manchester)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +"HAMEL-SMITH" ROTARY DRYER.<br /> +(Made by Messrs. David Bridge and Co., Manchester).<br /> + +The receiving cylinders, six in number, are filled approximately +three-quarters full with the cacao to be dried. These are then placed +in position on the revolving framework, which is enclosed in the +casing and slowly revolved. The cylinders are fitted with baffle plates, +which gently turn over the cacao beans at each revolution so that +even drying throughout is the result. The casing is heated to the +requisite temperature by means of a special stove, the arrangement +of which is such as to allow the air drawn from the outside to +circulate around the stove and to pass into the interior of the casing +containing the drying cylinders. The fumes from the fuel do not +in any way come in contact with the material during drying.</p> +<a name="page68" id="page68"></a> +</div> + + +<p> +In Trinidad the platform always has a sliding roof, +which can be pulled over the cacao in the blaze of noon +or when a rainstorm comes on. In other places, sliding +platforms are used which can be pushed under cover +in wet weather. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image35" id="image35"></a> +<a href="images/image035.jpg"> +<img src="images/image035_thumb.jpg" +alt="DRYING PLATFORMS, TRINIDAD, WITH SLIDING ROOFS." +title="DRYING PLATFORMS, TRINIDAD, WITH SLIDING ROOFS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DRYING PLATFORMS, TRINIDAD, WITH SLIDING ROOFS. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>The Washing of Cacao.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image36" id="image36"></a> +<a href="images/image036.jpg"> +<img src="images/image036_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO DRYING PLATFORMS, SAN THOMÉ. Three tiers of trays on rails. +(Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics)." +title="CACAO DRYING PLATFORMS, SAN THOMÉ. Three tiers of trays on rails. +(Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO DRYING PLATFORMS, SAN THOMÉ. Three tiers of trays on rails.<br /> +(Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of +Handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics). +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In Java, Ceylon and Madagascar before the cacao +is dried, it is first washed to remove all traces of pulp. +This removal of pulp enables the beans to be more +rapidly dried, and is considered almost a necessity in +Ceylon, where sun-drying is difficult. The practice +appears at first sight wholly good and sanitary, but +although beans so treated have a very clean and bright +appearance, looking not unlike almonds, the practice +<a name="page69" id="page69"></a> +<a name="page70" id="page70"></a> +cannot be recommended. There is a loss of from 2 to +10 per cent. in weight, which is a disadvantage to the +planter, whilst from the manufacturer's point of view, +washing is objectionable because, according to Dr. +Paul Preuss, the aroma suffers. Whilst this may be +questioned, there is no doubt that washing renders +the shells more brittle and friable, and less able to bear +carriage and handling; and when the shell is broken, +the cacao is more liable to attack by grubs and mould. +Therein lies the chief danger of washing. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image37" id="image37"></a> +<a href="images/image037.jpg"> +<img src="images/image037_thumb.jpg" +alt="WASHING THE BEANS IN A VAT TO CLEAN OFF THE PULP, CEYLON." +title="WASHING THE BEANS IN A VAT TO CLEAN OFF THE PULP, CEYLON." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +WASHING THE BEANS IN A VAT TO CLEAN OFF THE PULP, CEYLON. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Claying, Colouring, and Polishing Cacao.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image38" id="image38"></a> +<a href="images/image038.jpg"> +<img src="images/image038_thumb.jpg" +alt="CLAYING CACAO BEANS IN TRINIDAD." +title="CLAYING CACAO BEANS IN TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CLAYING CACAO BEANS IN TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Just as in Java and Ceylon, to assist drying, they +wash off the pulp, so in Venezuela and often in Trinidad, +with the same object, they put earth or clay on +<a name="page71" id="page71"></a> +the beans. In Venezuela it is a heavy, rough coat, and +in Trinidad a film so thin that usually it is not visible. +In Venezuela, where fermentation is often only allowed +to proceed for one day, the use of fine red earth may +possibly be of value. It certainly gives the beans a very +pretty appearance; they look as though they have +been moistened and rolled in cocoa powder. But in +Trinidad, where the fermentation is a lengthy one, the +use of clay, though hallowed by custom, is quite unnecessary. +In the report of the Commission of Enquiry +(Trinidad, 1915) we read concerning claying that "It +is said to prevent the bean from becoming mouldy in +wet weather, to improve its marketable value by giving +it a bright and uniform appearance, and to help to preserve +its aroma." In the appendix to this report the +following recommendation occurs: "The claying of +cacao ought to be avoided as much as possible, and +when necessary only sufficient to give a uniform colour +ought to be used." In my opinion manufacturers +<a name="page72" id="page72"></a> +would do well to discourage entirely the claying of +cacao either in Trinidad or Venezuela, for from their +point of view it has nothing to recommend it. One per +cent. of clay is sufficient to give a uniform colour, but +occasionally considerably more than this is used. If +we are to believe reports, deliberate adulteration is +sometimes practised. Thus in <i>How José formed his +Cocoa Estate</i> we read: "A cocoa dealer of our day +to give a uniform colour to the miscellaneous brands +he has purchased from Pedro, Dick, or Sammy will +wash the beans in a heap, with a mixture of starch, +sour oranges, gum arabic and red ochre. This mixture +is always boiled. I can recommend the 'Chinos' in +this dodge, who are all adepts in all sorts of 'adulteration' +schemes. They even add some grease to this +mixture so as to give the beans that brilliant gloss +which you see sometimes." In Trinidad the usual +way of obtaining a gloss is by the curious operation +known as "dancing," which is performed on the +moistened beans after the clay has been sprinkled on +them. It is a quaint sight to see a circle of seven or +eight coloured folk slowly treading a heap of beans. +The dancing may proceed for any period up to an +hour, and as they tread they sing some weird native +chant. Somewhat impressed, I remarked to the planter +that it had all the appearance of an incantation. He +replied that the process cost 2d. per cwt. Dancing +makes the beans look smooth, shiny, and even, and it +separates any beans that may be stuck together in +clusters. It may make the beans rounder, and it is said +to improve their keeping properties, but this remains +to be proved. On the whole, if it is considered desirable +to produce a glossy appearance, it is better to use +a polishing machine. +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Weight of the Cured Cacao Bean.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image39" id="image39"></a> +<a href="images/image039.jpg"> +<img src="images/image039_thumb.jpg" +alt="SORTING CACAO BEANS IN JAVA. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." +title="SORTING CACAO BEANS IN JAVA. +(Reproduced from van Hall's _Cocoa_, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SORTING CACAO BEANS IN JAVA.<br /> +(Reproduced from van Hall's <i>Cocoa</i>, by permission of Messrs. Macmillan & Co.). +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Planters and others may be interested to know the +comparative sizes of the beans from the various producing +areas of the world. Some idea of these can be +<a name="page73" id="page73"></a> +<a name="page74" id="page74"></a> +gained by considering the relative weights of the beans +as purchased in England. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Kind.</td><td align="center">Average weight<br />of one Bean.</td> +<td align="center">Number of Beans<br />to the lb.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Grenada</td><td align="left">1.0 grammes</td><td align="center">450</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Parâ</td><td align="left">1.0 "</td> +<td align="center">450</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Bahia</td><td align="left">1.1 "</td> +<td align="center">410</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Accra</td><td align="left">1.2 "</td> +<td align="center">380</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Trinidad</td><td align="left">1.2 "</td> +<td align="center">380</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cameroons</td><td align="left">1.2 "</td> +<td align="center">380</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ceylon</td><td align="left">1.2 "</td> +<td align="center">380</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Caracas</td><td align="left">1.3 "</td> +<td align="center">350</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Machala</td><td align="left">1.4 "</td> +<td align="center">330</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Arriba</td><td align="left">1.5 "</td> +<td align="center">300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Carupano</td><td align="left">1.6 "</td> +<td align="center">280</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<h3><i>The Yield of the Cacao Tree.</i></h3> + +<p> +The average yield of cacao has in the past generally +been over-stated. Whether this is because the planter +is an optimist or because he wishes others to think his +efforts are crowned with exceptional success, or because +he takes a simple pride in his district, is hard to +tell. Probably the tendency has been to take the finer +estates and put their results down as the average. +</p> + +<p> +Of the thousands of flowers that bloom on one tree +during the year, on an average only about twenty +develop into mature pods, and each pod yields about +1-1/3 ounces of dry cured cacao. Taking the healthy +trees with the neglected, the average yield is from 1-1/2 +to 2 pounds of commercial cacao per tree. This seems +very small, and those who hear it for the first time +often make a rapid mental calculation of the amazing +number of trees that must be needed to produce the +world's supply, at least 250 million trees. Or again, +taking the average yield per acre as 400 lbs., we find +that there must be well over a million acres under cacao +cultivation. At the Government station at Aburi (Gold +Coast) three plots of cacao gave in 1914 an average +yield of over 8 pounds of cacao per tree, and in 1918 +<a name="page75" id="page75"></a> +some 468 trees (<i>Amelonado</i>) gave as an average 7.8 +pounds per tree. This suggests what might be done +by thorough cultivation. It suggests a great opportunity +for the planters—that, without planting one +more tree, they might quadruple the world's production. +</p> + +<p> +The work which has been started by the Agricultural +Department in Trinidad of recording the yield of individual +trees has shown that great differences occur. +Further, it has generally been observed that the heavy +bearing trees of the first year have continued to be +heavy bearers, and the poor-yielding trees have remained +poor during subsequent years. The report +rightly concludes that: "The question of detecting +the poor-bearing trees on an estate and having them +replaced by trees raised from selected stock, or budded +or grafted trees, of known prolific and other good +qualities is deserving of the most serious consideration +by planters." +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Kind of Cacao that Manufacturers Like.</i> +<a name="III-6m" id="III-6m" href="#III-6"><small>[6]</small></a></h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p> +Planters have suggested to me that if the users and +producers of cacao could be brought together it would +be to their mutual advantage. Permit me to conceive a +meeting and report an imaginary conversation: +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: You know we planters work a little in the dark. We don't +know quite what to strive after. Tell me exactly what kind of +cacao the manufacturers want? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Every buyer and manufacturer has his tastes and +preferences and—. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: Don't hedge! +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: The cacao of each producing area has its special +characters, even as the wine from a country, and part of the +good manufacturer's art is the art of blending. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: What—good with bad? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: No! Good of one type with good of another type. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: What do you mean exactly by good? +</p> + +<p> +<a name="page76" id="page76"></a> +MANUFACTURER: By good I mean large, ripe, well-cured beans. By +indifferent I mean unripe and unfermented. By abominable I +mean germinated, mouldy, and grubby beans. Happily, the +last class is quite a small one. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: You don't mean to tell me that only the good cacao sells? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Unfortunately, no! There are users of inferior +beans. Practically all the cacao produced—good and indifferent—is +bought by someone. Most manufacturers prefer the fine, +healthy, well fermented kinds. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: Well fermented! They have a strange way of showing +their preference. Why, they often pay more for Guayaquil than +they do for Grenada cacao. Yet Guayaquil is never properly +fermented, whilst that from the Grenada estates is perfectly +fermented. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Agreed. Just as you would pay more for a badly-trained +thoroughbred than for a well-trained mongrel. It's +breed they pay for. The Guayaquil breed is peculiar; there is +nothing else like it in the world. You might think the tree had +been grafted on to a spice tree. It has a fine characteristic aroma, +which is so powerful that it masks the presence of a high percentage +of unfermented beans. However, if Guayaquil cacao +was well-fermented it would (subject to the iron laws of Supply +and Demand) fetch a still higher price, and there would not +be the loss there is in a wet season when the Guayaquil cacao, +being unfermented, goes mouldy. I think in Grenada they +plant for high yield, and not for quality, for the bean is small +and approaches the inferior Calabacillo breed. Its value is +maintained by an amazing evenness and an uniform excellence +in curing. The way in which it is prepared for the market does +great credit to the planters. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: They don't clay there, do they? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: No! and yet it is practically impossible to find a +mouldy bean in Grenada estates cacao. Evidently claying is +not a necessity—in Grenada. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: Ha! ha! By that I suppose you insinuate that it is not a +necessity in Trinidad, where the curing is also excellent. Or in +Venezuela? What's the buyer's objection to claying? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Simply that claying is camouflage. Actually the +buyer doesn't mind so long as the clay is not too generously +used. He objects to paying for beans and getting clay. However, +it's really too bad to colour up with clay the black +cacao from diseased pods; it might deceive even experienced +brokers. +</p> + +<p> +<a name="page77" id="page77"></a> +PLANTER: Ha! ha! Then it's a very sinful practice. I don't think +that ever gets beyond the local tropical market. I know the +merchants judge largely by "the skin," but I thought the +London broker—. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: You see it's like this. Just as you associate a certain +label with a particularly good brand of cigar so the planter's +mark on the bag and the external appearance of the beans +influence the broker by long association. But just as you cannot +truly judge a cigar by the picture on the box, so the broker has +to consider what is under the shell of the bean. One or two +manufacturers go further, but don't trust merely to "tasting +with their eyes"—they only come to a conclusion when they +have roasted a sample. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: But a buyer can get a shrewd idea without roasting, +surely? You agree. Well, what exactly does he look for? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Depends what nationality the bean is—I mean +whether it was grown in Venezuela, Brazil, Trinidad, or the +Gold Coast. In general he likes beans with a good "break," +that is beans which, under the firm pressure of thumb and +forefinger, break into small crisp nibs. Closeness or cheesiness +are danger signals, warnings of lack of fermentation,—so is a +slate-coloured interior. He prefers a pale, even-coloured interior,—cinnamon, +chocolate, or café-au-lait colour and—. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: One moment! I've heard before of planters being told +to ferment and cure until the bean is cinnamon colour. Why, +man, you couldn't get a pale brown interior with beans of the +Forastero or Calabacillo type if you fermented them to rottenness. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: True! Well, if the breed on your plantation is +purple Forastero, and more than half of the cacao in the world +is, you must develop as much brown in the beans as possible. +They should have the characteristic refreshing odour of raw +cacao, together with a faint vinegary odour. The buyers much +dislike any foreign smell, any mouldy, hammy, or cheesy +odour. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: And where do the foreign odours come from? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: That's debatable. Some come from bad fermentations, +due to dirty fermentaries, abnormal temperatures, or +unripe cacao.<a name="III-7m" id="III-7m" href="#III-7"><small>[7]</small></a> +Some come from smoky or imperfect artificial +<a name="page78" id="page78"></a> +drying. Some come from mould. Unfermented cacao is liable +to go mouldy, so is germinated or over-ripe cacao with broken +shells. Some cacao unfortunately gets wet with sea water. +There always seems to me something pathetic in the thought +of finely-cured cacao being drowned in sea water as it goes out +in open boats to the steamer. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: You see, we haven't piers and jetties everywhere, and +often it's a long journey to them. Well, you've told me the +buyers note break, colour and aroma. Anything else? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: They like large beans, partly because largeness +suggests fineness, and partly because with large beans the percentage +of shell is less. Small flat beans are very wasteful and +unsatisfactory; they are nearly all shell and very difficult to +separate from the shell. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: When there's a drought we can't help ourselves; we +produce quantities of small flat beans. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: It must be trying to be at the mercy of the weather. +However, the weather doesn't prevent the dirt being picked out +of the beans. Buyers don't like more than half a per cent. of +rubbish; I mean stones, dried twig-like pieces of pulp, dust, +etc., left in the cacao, neither do they like to see "cobs," that +is, two or more beans stuck together, nor—. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: How about gloss? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: The beauty of a polished bean attracts, although +they know the beauty is less than skin deep. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: And washing? +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: In my opinion washing is bad, leaves the shell too +fragile. I believe in Hamburg they used to pay more for washed +beans; although very little, I suppose less than five per cent., +of the world's cacao is washed, but in London many buyers +prefer "the great unwashed." However, brokers are conservative, +and would probably look on unwashed Ceylon with +suspicion. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: Well, I have been very interested in everything that you +have said, and I think every planter should strive to produce +the very best he can, but he does not get much encouragement. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: How is that? +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: There is insufficient difference between the price of the +best and the common. +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: Unfortunately that is beyond any individual manufacturer's +control. The price is controlled by the European +and New York markets. I am afraid that as long as there is so +<a name="page79" id="page79"></a> +large a demand by the public for cheap cocoas so long will +there be keen competition amongst buyers for the commoner +kinds of beans. +</p> + +<p> +PLANTER: The manufacturer should keep some of his own men on +the spot to do his buying. They would discriminate carefully, +and the differences in price offered would soon educate the +planters! +</p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURER: True, but as each manufacturer requires cacao +from many countries and districts, this would be a very costly +enterprise. Several manufacturers have had their own buyers +in certain places in the Tropics for some years, and it is generally +agreed that this has acted as an incentive to the growers to +improve the quality.<a name="III-8m" id="III-8m" href="#III-8"><small>[8]</small></a> +But in the main we have to look to the +various Government Agricultural Departments to instruct and +encourage the planters in the use of the best methods. +<a name="page80" id="page80"></a> +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image40" id="image40"></a> +<a href="images/image040.jpg"> +<img src="images/image040_thumb.jpg" +alt="THE WORLD'S CACAO PRODUCTION." +title="THE WORLD'S CACAO PRODUCTION." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +THE WORLD'S CACAO PRODUCTION.<br /> +(Mean of 5 years, 1914-1918. Average world production 295,600 +tons per annum.) Diagram showing relative amounts produced by +various countries. The shaded parts show production of British +Possessions. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-1" id="III-1" href="#III-1m">[1]</a> For full details see the pamphlet by the author on <i>The Practice +of Fermentation in Trinidad</i>. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-2" id="III-2" href="#III-2m">[2]</a> <i>Philippine Journal of Science</i>, 1917. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-3" id="III-3" href="#III-3m">[3]</a> <i>Journal of the Chemical Society</i>, 1912. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-4" id="III-4" href="#III-4m">[4]</a> <i>Comptes Rendus</i>, 1913. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-5" id="III-5" href="#III-5m">[5]</a> +Dr. Paul Preuss, <i>Le cacao. Culture et Préparation</i>. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-6" id="III-6" href="#III-6m">[6]</a> +For further information read <i>The Qualities in Cacao Desired +by Manufacturers</i>, by N.P. Booth and A.W. Knapp, International +Congress of Tropical Agriculture, 1914. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-7" id="III-7" href="#III-7m">[7]</a> +Cameroon cacao sometimes has an objectionable odour and +flavour, which may be due to its being fermented in an unripe condition, +for, as Dr. Fickendey says: "Cameroon cacao has to be +harvested unripe to save the pods from brown rot." +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="III-8" id="III-8" href="#III-8m">[8]</a> +The Director of Agriculture, in a paper on <i>The Gold Coast +Cocoa Industry</i>, says: "We are indebted to Messrs. Cadbury Bros., +of Bournville, for a lead in this direction. They have several agents +in the colony who purchase on their behalf only the best qualities +at an enhanced price, and reject all that falls below the standard of +their requirements." +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page81" id="page81"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter4" id="chapter4">CHAPTER IV</a></h2> + +<h3>CACAO PRODUCTION AND SALE</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +When the English Commander, Thomas Candish, coming +into the Haven Guatulco, burnt two hundred thousand +tun of cacao, it proved no small loss to all New Spain, the +provinces Guatimala and Nicaragua not producing so +much in a whole year. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +John Ogilvy's <i>America</i>, 1671. +</div> + + +<p> +When one starts to discuss, however briefly, +the producing areas, one ought first to take +off one's hat to Ecuador, for so long the principal +producer, and then to Venezuela the land of the +original cacao, and producer of the finest criollo type. +Having done this, one ought to say words of praise to +Trinidad, Grenada and Ceylon for their scientific +methods of culture and preparation; and, last but not +least, the newest and greatest producer, the Gold +Coast, should receive honourable mention. It is interesting +to note that in 1918 British Possessions produced +nearly half (44 per cent.) of the world's supply. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the war has not very materially hindered the +increase of cacao production in the tropics, the shortage +of shipping has prevented the amount exported +from maintaining a steady rise. The table below, taken +mainly from the "Gordian," illustrates this: +</p> + + +<h3>WORLD PRODUCTION OF CACAO.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="4">Total in tons (1 ton = 1000 kilogrammes)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1908</td><td align="center">194,000</td> +<td align="center">1914</td><td align="center">277,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1909</td><td align="center">206,000</td> +<td align="center">1915</td><td align="center">298,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1910</td><td align="center">220,000</td> +<td align="center">1916</td><td align="center">297,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1911</td><td align="center">241,000</td> +<td align="center">1917</td><td align="center">343,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1912</td><td align="center">234,000</td> +<td align="center">1918</td><td align="center">273,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="center">1913</td><td align="center">258,000</td> +<td align="center">1919</td><td align="center">431,000</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<a name="page82" id="page82"></a> +</div> + +<p> +The following table is compiled chiefly from Messrs. +Theo. Vasmer & Co.'s reports in the <i>Confectioners' +Union</i>. +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO PRODUCTION OF THE CHIEF PRODUCING AREAS OF THE WORLD.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="6">(1 ton = 1000 kilogrammes).</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Country.</td><td align="center">1914</td><td align="center">1915</td> +<td align="center">1916</td><td align="center">1917</td><td align="center">1918</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"> </td><td align="center">Tons.</td><td align="center">Tons.</td> +<td align="center">Tons.</td><td align="center">Tons.</td><td align="center">Tons.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Gold Coast<a name="IV-1m" id="IV-1m" href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">53,000</td><td align="right">77,300</td><td align="right">72,200</td> +<td align="right">91,000</td><td align="right">66,300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Brazil</td><td align="right">40,800</td><td align="right">45,000</td> +<td align="right">43,700</td><td align="right">55,600</td><td align="right">41,900</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ecuador</td><td align="right">47,200</td><td align="right">37,000</td> +<td align="right">42,700</td><td align="right">47,200</td><td align="right">38,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">San Thomé</td><td align="right">31,400</td><td align="right">29,900</td> +<td align="right">33,200</td><td align="right">31,900</td><td align="right">26,600</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Trinidad<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">28,400</td><td align="right">24,100</td><td align="right">24,000</td> +<td align="right">31,800</td><td align="right">26,200</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">San Domingo</td><td align="right">20,700</td><td align="right">20,200</td> +<td align="right">21,000</td><td align="right">23,700</td><td align="right">18,800</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Venezuela</td><td align="right">16,900</td><td align="right">18,300</td> +<td align="right">15,200</td><td align="right">13,100</td><td align="right">13,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Lagos<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">4,900</td><td align="right">9,100</td><td align="right">9,000</td> +<td align="right">15,400</td><td align="right">10,200</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Grenada<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">6,100</td><td align="right">6,500</td><td align="right">5,500</td> +<td align="right">5,500</td><td align="right">6,700</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Fernando Po</td><td align="right">3,100</td><td align="right">3,900</td> +<td align="right">3,800</td><td align="right">3,700</td><td align="right">4,200</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ceylon<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">2,900</td><td align="right">3,900</td><td align="right">3,500</td> +<td align="right">3,700</td><td align="right">4,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Jamaica<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">3,800</td><td align="right">3,600</td><td align="right">3,400</td> +<td align="right">2,800</td><td align="right">3,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Surinam</td><td align="right">1,900</td><td align="right">1,700</td> +<td align="right">2,000</td><td align="right">1,900</td><td align="right">2,500</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cameroons</td><td align="right">1,200</td><td align="right">2,400</td> +<td align="right">3,000</td><td align="right">2,800</td><td align="right">1,300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Haiti</td><td align="right">2,100</td><td align="right">1,800</td> +<td align="right">1,900</td><td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">2,300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">French Cols.</td><td align="right">1,800</td><td align="right">1,900</td> +<td align="right">1,600</td><td align="right">2,200</td><td align="right">1,700</td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="left">Cuba</td><td align="right">1,800</td><td align="right">1,700</td> +<td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">1,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Java</td><td align="right">1,600</td><td align="right">1,500</td> +<td align="right">1,500</td><td align="right">1,600</td><td align="right">800</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Samoa</td><td align="right">1,100</td><td align="right">900</td> +<td align="right">900</td><td align="right">1,200</td><td align="right">800</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Togo</td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">300</td> +<td align="right">400</td><td align="right">1,600</td><td align="right">1,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">St. Lucia<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">700</td><td align="right">800</td><td align="right">700</td> +<td align="right">600</td><td align="right">500</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Belgian Congo</td><td align="right">500</td><td align="right">600</td> +<td align="right">800</td><td align="right">800</td><td align="right">900</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Dominica<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">450</td><td align="right">550</td><td align="right">300</td> +<td align="right">300</td><td align="right">300</td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="left">St. Vincent<a href="#IV-1"><small>[1]</small></a></td> +<td align="right">100</td><td align="right">100</td><td align="right">75</td> +<td align="right">50</td><td align="right">75</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Other countries</td><td align="right" class="bb">3,200</td> +<td align="right" class="bb">3,000</td><td align="right" class="bb">3,500</td> +<td align="right" class="bb">3,500</td><td align="right" class="bb">3,500</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Total</td><td align="right" class="bb">275,900</td> +<td align="right" class="bb">296,100</td><td align="right" class="bb">295,400</td> +<td align="right" class="bb">344,000</td><td align="right" class="bb">275,600</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Total British Empire</td><td align="right">102,000</td> +<td align="right">128,000</td><td align="right">120,000</td><td align="right">153,000</td> +<td align="right">119,000</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><a name="page83" id="page83"></a></p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image41" id="image41"></a> +<a href="images/image041.jpg"> +<img src="images/image041_thumb.jpg" +alt="MAP OF THE WORLD, WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED." +title="MAP OF THE WORLD, WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +MAP OF THE WORLD, WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED. +</p> +<a name="page84" id="page84"></a> +</div> + + + +<h3><i>SOUTH AMERICAN CACAO.</i></h3> + +<p> +In the map of South America given on p. 89 the +principal cacao producing areas are marked. Their +production in 1918 was as follows: +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS EXPORTED.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Country.</td> +<td align="center">Metric Tons.<a name="IV-2m" id="IV-2m" href="#IV-2"><small>[2]</small></a></td> +<td align="center">Percentage of<br />World's production.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Brazil</td><td align="center">41,865</td><td align="center">15.4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ecuador</td><td align="center">38,00</td><td align="center">14.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="3"> (Guayaquil alone 34,973 tons)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Venezuela</td><td align="center">13,000</td><td align="center">5.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Surinam</td><td align="center">2,468</td><td align="center">0.9</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">British Guiana</td><td align="center" class="bb">20</td> +<td align="center" class="bb">0.01</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">South American Total</td><td align="center">95,353 tons</td> +<td align="center">35.31 per cent.</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> </p> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table summary="images"> +<tr> +<td> +<a name="image42" id="image42"></a> +<a href="images/image042.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image042_thumb.jpg" +alt="RAKING CACAO BEANS ON THE DRIERS." +title="RAKING CACAO BEANS ON THE DRIERS." /> +</a> +</td> +<td> +<a name="image43" id="image43"></a> +<a href="images/image043.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image043_thumb.jpg" +alt="GATHERING CACAO PODS IN ECUADOR." +title="GATHERING CACAO PODS IN ECUADOR." /> +</a> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"> +<p class="caption"> +RAKING CACAO BEANS ON THE DRIERS. +</p> +</td> +<td align="center"> +<p class="caption"> +GATHERING CACAO PODS IN ECUADOR.</p> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center" colspan="2"><p class="caption">(La Clementina Plantation, Ecuador.)</p></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<p> +ECUADOR. +</p> + + +<p> +<i>Arriba and Machala Cacaos.</i>—In Ecuador, for many +years the chief producing area of the world, dwell the +cacao kings, men who possess very large and wild cacao +forests, each containing several million cacao trees. +The method of culture is primitive, and no artificial +manures are used, yet for several generations the trees +have given good crops and the soil remains as fertile +as ever. The two principal cacaos are known as <i>Arriba</i> +and <i>Machala</i>, or classed together as Guayaquil after +the city of that name. Guayaquil, the commercial +metropolis of the Republic of Ecuador, is an ancient +and picturesque city built almost astride the Equator. +Despite the unscientific cultural methods, and the +imperfect fermentation, which results in the cacao +containing a high percentage of unfermented beans +and not infrequently mouldy beans also, this cacao is +much appreciated in Europe and America, for the beans +<a name="page85" id="page85"></a> +<a name="page86" id="page86"></a> +are large and possess a fine strong flavour and characteristic +scented aroma. The amount of Guayaquil +cacao exported in 1919 was 33,209 tons. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image44" id="image44"></a> +<a href="images/image044.jpg"> +<img src="images/image044_thumb.jpg" +alt="SORTING CACAO FOR SHIPMENT, GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR." +title="SORTING CACAO FOR SHIPMENT, GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SORTING CACAO FOR SHIPMENT, GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +An interesting experiment was made in 1912, when +a protective association known as the <i>Asociacion de +Agricultores del Ecuador</i> was legalised. This collects +half a golden dollar on every hundred pounds of cacao, +and by purchasing and storing cacao on its own account +whenever prices fall below a reasonable minimum, +attempts in the planter's interest to regulate the selling +price of cacao. Unfortunately, as cacao tends to go +mouldy when stored in a damp tropical climate, the +<i>Asociacion</i> is not an unmixed blessing to the manufacturer +and consumer. +<a name="page87" id="page87"></a> +</p> + + +<p> +BRAZIL. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Parâ and Bahia Cacaos.</i>—Brazil has made marked +progress in recent years, and has now overtaken Ecuador +in quantity of produce; the cacao, however, is +quite different from, and not as fine as, that from +Guayaquil. The principal cacao comes from the State +of Bahia, where the climate is ideal for its cultivation. +Indeed so perfect are the natural conditions that formerly +no care was taken in cacao production, and +much of that gathered was wild and uncured. During +the last decade there has been an improvement, and +this would, doubtless, be more noteworthy if the means +of transport were better, for at present the roads are +bad and the railways inadequate; hence most of the +cacao is brought down to the city of Bahia in canoes. +Nevertheless, Bahia cacao is better fermented than the +peculiar cacao of Pará, another important cacao from +Brazil, which is appreciated by manufacturers on +account of its mild flavour. Bahia exported in 1919 +about 51,000 tons of cacao. +</p> + + +<p> +VENEZUELA. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Caracas, Carupano and Maracaibo Cacaos.</i>—Venezuela +has been called "the classic home of cacao," +and had not the chief occupation of its inhabitants +been revolution, it would have retained till now the +important position it held a hundred years ago. It is in +this enchanted country (it was at La Guayra in Caracas, +as readers of <i>Westward Ho!</i> will remember, that +Amyas found his long-sought Rose) that the finest +cacao in the world is produced: the criollo, the bean +with the golden-brown break. The tree which produces +this is as delicate as the cacao is fine, and +there is some danger that this superb cacao may die +out—a tragedy which every connoisseur would wish +to avert. +</p> + +<p> +The <i>Gordian</i> estimates that Venezuela sent out from +her three principal ports in 1919 some 16,226 tons of +cacao. +<a name="page88" id="page88"></a> +</p> + + +<h3><i>THE WEST INDIES.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image45" id="image45"></a> +<a href="images/image045.jpg"> +<img src="images/image045_thumb.jpg" +alt="MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA AND THE WEST INDIES. +Only cacao-producing areas are marked." +title="MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA AND THE WEST INDIES. +Only cacao-producing areas are marked." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA AND THE WEST INDIES.<br /> +Only cacao-producing areas are marked. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In the map of South America the principal West +Indian islands producing cacao are marked. Their +production in 1918 was as follows: +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS EXPORTED.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="center">Metric Tons.</td><td align="center">Percentage<br />of World's production.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Trinidad (British)</td><td align="right">26,177</td><td align="center">9.7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">San Domingo</td><td align="right">18,839</td><td align="center">7.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Grenada (British)</td><td align="right">6,704</td><td align="center">2.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Jamaica (British)</td><td align="right">3,000</td><td align="center">1.1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Haiti</td><td align="right">2,272</td><td align="center">0.8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">St. Lucia (British)</td><td align="right">500</td><td align="center">0.2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Dominica (British)</td><td align="right">300</td><td align="center">0.1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">St. Vincent (British)</td><td align="right" class="bb">70</td> +<td align="center" class="bb">0.02</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">West Indies Total</td><td align="right" class="bb">57,862 tons</td> +<td align="center" class="bb">21.42 per cent.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Br. West Indies</td><td align="right">36,751 tons</td> +<td align="center">13.6 per cent.</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +TRINIDAD AND GRENADA.<a name="IV-3m" id="IV-3m" href="#IV-3"><small>[3]</small></a> +</p> + + +<p> +Cacao was grown in the West Indies in the seventeenth +century, and the inhabitants, after the destructive +"blast," which utterly destroyed the plantations +in 1727, bravely replanted cacao, which has flourished +there ever since. The cacaos of Trinidad and Grenada +have long been known for their excellence, and it is +mainly from Trinidad that the knowledge of methods +of scientific cultivation and preparation has been +spread to planters all round the equator. The cacao +from Trinidad (famous alike for its cacao and its pitch +lake) has always held a high place in the markets of the +world, although a year or two ago the inclusion of inferior +cacao and the practice of claying was abused +by a few growers and merchants. With the object of +stopping these abuses and of producing a uniform +cacao, there was formed a Cacao Planters' Association, +whose business it is to grade and bulk, and sell +on a co-operative basis, the cacao produced by its +members. This experiment has proved successful, and +<a name="page89" id="page89"></a> +<a name="page90" id="page90"></a> +in 1918 the Association handled the cacao from over +100 estates. We may expect to see more of these cacao +planters' associations formed in various parts of the +world, for they are in line with the trend of the times +towards large, and ever larger, unions and combinations. +Trinidad is also progressive in its system of agricultural +education and in its formation of agricultural credit societies. +The neighbouring island of Grenada is mountainous, +smaller than the Isle of Wight and (if the Irish will +forgive me) greener than Erin's Isle. The methods of cacao +cultivation in vogue there might seem natural to the British +farmer, but they are considered remarkable by cacao +planters, for in Grenada the soil on which the trees grow is +forked or tilled. Possibly from this follows the equally +remarkable corollary that the cacao trees flourish without +a single shade tree. The preparation of the bean receives +<a name="page91" id="page91"></a>as much care as the cultivation of the tree, and +the cacao which comes from the estates has an unvaried +constancy of quality, not infrequently giving +100 per cent. of perfectly prepared beans. It is largely +due to this that the cacao from this small island occupies +such an important position on the London market. +</p> + +<p> +The cacao from San Domingo is known commercially +as <i>Samana</i> or <i>Sanchez</i>. A fair proportion is of +inferior quality, and is little appreciated on the +European markets. The bulk of it goes to America. +The production in 1919 was about 23,000 tons. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image46" id="image46"></a> +<a href="images/image046.jpg"> +<img src="images/image046_thumb.jpg" +alt="WORKERS ON A CACAO PLANTATION. +(Messrs. Cadbury's estate in Trinidad.)" +title="WORKERS ON A CACAO PLANTATION. +(Messrs. Cadbury's estate in Trinidad.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +WORKERS ON A CACAO PLANTATION.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury's estate in Trinidad.) +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>AFRICAN CACAO.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image47" id="image47"></a> +<a href="images/image047.jpg"> +<img src="images/image047_thumb.jpg" +alt="MAP OF AFRICA—WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED." +title="MAP OF AFRICA—WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +MAP OF AFRICA—WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED. +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +In the map of Africa the principal producing areas +are marked. Their production in 1918 was as follows: +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS EXPORTED.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="center">Metric Tons.</td><td align="center">Percentage of<br />World's production.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Gold Coast (British)</td><td align="right">66,343</td><td align="center">24.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">San Thomé</td><td align="right">19,185</td><td align="center">7.1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Lagos (British)</td><td align="right">10,223</td><td align="center">3.8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Fernando Po</td><td align="right">4,220</td><td align="center">1.6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cameroons</td><td align="right">1,250</td><td align="center">0.4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Togo</td><td align="right">1,000</td><td align="center">0.4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Belgian Congo</td><td align="right" class="bb">875</td> +<td align="center" class="bb">0.3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">African Total</td><td align="right" class="bb">103,096 tons</td> +<td align="center" class="bb">38.1 per cent.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">British Africa</td><td align="right">76,566 tons</td> +<td align="center">28.3 per cent.</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +THE GOLD COAST (<i>Industria floremus</i>). +</p> + + +<p> +<i>Accra Cacao.</i> +</p> + +<p> +The name recalls stories of a romantic and awful +past, in which gold and the slave trade played their +terrible part. Happily these are things of the past; so +is the "deadly climate." We are told that it is now no +worse than that of other tropical countries. According +to Sir Hugh Clifford, until recently Governor of the +Gold Coast, the "West African Climatic Bogie" is a +<a name="page92" id="page92"></a> +<a name="page93" id="page93"></a> +<a name="page94" id="page94"></a> +myth, and the "monumental reputation for unhealthiness" +undeserved. When De Candolle wrote concerning +cacao, "I imagine it would succeed on the +Guinea Coast,"<a name="IV-4m" id="IV-4m" href="#IV-4"><small>[4]</small></a> +as the West African coast is sometimes +called, he achieved prophecy, but he little +dreamed how wonderful this success would be. The +rise and growth of the cacao-growing industry in the +Gold Coast is one of the most extraordinary developments +of the last few decades. In thirty years it has +increased its export of cacao from nothing to 40 per cent. +of the total of the world's production. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image48" id="image48"></a> +<a href="images/image048.jpg"> +<img src="images/image048_thumb.jpg" +alt="FORESHORE AT ACCRA, WITH STACKS OF CACAO READY FOR SHIPMENT +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa"." +title="FORESHORE AT ACCRA, WITH STACKS OF CACAO READY FOR SHIPMENT +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa"." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +FORESHORE AT ACCRA, WITH STACKS OF CACAO READY FOR SHIPMENT<br /> +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa". +</p> +</div> + + +<h3>PRODUCTION OF CACAO ON THE GOLD COAST.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Year.</td><td align="center">Quantity.</td><td align="center">Value. £</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1891</td><td align="right">0 tons (80 lbs.)</td><td align="right">4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1896</td><td align="right">34 tons</td><td align="right">2,276</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1901</td><td align="right">980 tons</td><td align="right">42,837</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1906</td><td align="right">8,975 tons</td><td align="right">336,269</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1911</td><td align="right">30,798 tons</td><td align="right">1,613,468</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1916</td><td align="right">72,161 tons</td><td align="right">3,847,720</td> +</tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"></td></tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1917</td><td align="right">90,964 tons</td><td align="right">3,146,851</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1918</td><td align="right">66,343 tons</td><td align="right">1,796,985</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1919</td><td align="right">177,000 tons</td><td align="right">8,000,000</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image49" id="image49"></a> +<a href="images/image049.jpg"> +<img src="images/image049_thumb.jpg" +alt="CARRIERS CONVEYING BAGS OF CACAO TO SURF BOATS, ACCRA. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" +title="CARRIERS CONVEYING BAGS OF CACAO TO SURF BOATS, ACCRA. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CARRIERS CONVEYING BAGS OF CACAO TO SURF BOATS, ACCRA.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa." +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +The conditions of production in the Gold Coast +present a number of features entirely novel. We hear +from time to time of concessions being granted in +tropical regions to this or that company of enterprising +European capitalists, who employ a few Europeans +and send them to the area to manage the industry. The +inhabitants of the area become the manual wage earners +of the company, and too often in the lust for profits, +or as an offering to the god of commercial efficiency, +the once easy and free life of the native is lost for ever +and a form of wage-slavery takes its place with doubtful +effects on the life and health of the workers. In +defence it is pointed out that yet another portion of +the earth has been made productive, which, without +the initiative of the European capitalist, must have lain +<a name="page95" id="page95"></a> +<a name="page96" id="page96"></a> +fallow. But in the Gold Coast the "indolent" native +has created a new industry entirely native owned, and +in thirty years the Gold Coast has outstripped all the +areas of the world in quantity of produce. Forty years +ago the natives had never seen a cacao tree, now at +least fifty million trees flourish in the colony. This +could not have happened without the strenuous efforts +of the Department of Agriculture. The Gold Coast +now stands head and shoulders above any other producing +area for quantity. The problem of the future +lies in the improvement of quality, and difficult though +this problem be, we cannot doubt, given a fair chance, +that the far-sighted and energetic Agricultural Department +will solve it. Indeed, it must in justice be pointed +out that already a very marked improvement has been +made, and now fifty to one hundred times as much +good fermented cacao is produced as there was ten +years ago.<a name="IV-5m" id="IV-5m" href="#IV-5"><small>[5]</small></a> +However, if a high standard is to be maintained, +the work of the Department of Agriculture +must be supplemented by the willingness of the cacao +buyers to pay a higher price for the better qualities. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image50" id="image50"></a> +<a href="images/image050.jpg"> +<img src="images/image050_thumb.jpg" +alt="CROSSING THE RIVER AT NSAWAM, GOLD COAST." +title="CROSSING THE RIVER AT NSAWAM, GOLD COAST." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CROSSING THE RIVER AT NSAWAM, GOLD COAST. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The phenomenal growth of this industry is the more +remarkable when we consider the lack of roads and +beasts of burden. The usual pack animals, horses and +oxen, cannot live on the Gold Coast because of the +tsetse fly, which spreads amongst them the sleeping +sickness. And so the native, used as he is to heavy +head-loads, naturally adopted this as his first method +of transport, and hundreds of the less affluent natives +arrive at the collecting centres with great weights of +<a name="page97" id="page97"></a> +<a name="page98" id="page98"></a> +cacao on their heads. "Women and children, light-hearted, +chattering and cheerful, bear their 60 lbs. +head-loads with infinite patience. Heavier loads, approaching +sometimes +two hundredweight, +are borne by grave, +silent Hausa-men, +often a distance of +thirty or forty miles." +</p> + +<div class="lef"> +<a name="image51" id="image51"></a> +<a href="images/image051.jpg"> +<img src="images/image051_thumb.jpg" +alt="DRYING CACAO BEANS AT MRAMRA. +Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of +Handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics." +title="DRYING CACAO BEANS AT MRAMRA. +Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of +Handbooks to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DRYING CACAO BEANS AT<br /> +MRAMRA. Reproduced by<br /> +permission from the<br /> +Imperial Institute series<br /> +of Handbooks to the<br /> +Commercial Resources<br /> +of the Tropics. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +One day, not so +many years ago, some +more ingenious native +in the hills at the back +of the Coast, filled an +old palm-oil barrel +with cacao and rolled +it down the ways to +Accra. And now to-day +it is a familiar sight +to see a man trundling +a huge barrel of cacao, +weighing half a ton, +down to the coast. The +sound of a motor horn +is heard, and he wildly +turns the barrel aside +to avoid a disastrous +collision with the new, +weird transport animal +from Europe. +Motor lorries have +been used with great +effect on the coast for some seven years; they have +the advantage over pack animals that they do not +succumb to the bite of the dreaded tsetse fly, but +nevertheless not a few derelicts lie, or stand on their +heads, in the ditches, the victims of over-work or +accident. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image52" id="image52"></a> +<a href="images/image052.jpg"> +<img src="images/image052_thumb.jpg" +alt="SHOOTING CACAO FROM THE ROAD TO THE BEACH, ACCRA." +title="SHOOTING CACAO FROM THE ROAD TO THE BEACH, ACCRA." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SHOOTING CACAO FROM THE ROAD TO THE BEACH, ACCRA. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Having brought the cacao to the coast, there yet +<a name="page99" id="page99"></a> +<a name="page100" id="page100"></a> +remains the lighterage to the ocean liner, which lies +anchored some two miles from the shore, rising and +falling to the great rollers from the broad Atlantic. A +long boat is used, manned by some twenty swarthy +natives, who glory—vocally—in their passage through +the dangerous surf which +roars along the sloping +beach. The cacao is piled +high on wood racks and +covered with tarpaulins +and seldom shares the +fate of passengers and +crew, who are often +drenched in the surf +before they swing by a +crane in the primitive +mammy chair, high but +not dry, on board the +hospitable Elder Dempster +liner. +</p> + +<div class="rig"> +<a name="image53" id="image53"></a> +<a href="images/image053.jpg"> +<img src="images/image053_thumb.jpg" +alt="ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST." +title="ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST. +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +SAN THOMÉ +(AND PRINCIPE). +</p> + +<p> +We now turn from the +Gold Coast and the success +of native ownership +to another part of West +Africa, a scene of singular beauty, where the Portuguese +planters have triumphed over savage nature. +</p> + +<p> +Two lovely islands, San Thomé and its little +sister isle of Principe, lie right on the Equator in +the Gulf of Guinea, about two hundred miles from +the African mainland. A warm, lazy sea, the sea +of the doldrums, sapphire or turquoise, or, in deep +shaded pools, a radiant green, joyfully foams itself +away against these fairy lands of tossing palm, +dense vegetation, rushing cascades, and purple, +precipitous peaks. A soil of volcanic origin is +covered with a rich humus of decaying vegetation, +<a name="page101" id="page101"></a> +and this, with a soft humid atmosphere, makes an +ideal home for cacao. +</p> + +<p> +The bean, introduced in 1822, was not cultivated +with diligence till fifty years ago. To-day the two +islands, which together have not half the area of Surrey, +grow 32,000 metric tons of cacao a year, or about one-tenth +of the world's production.<a name="IV-6m" id="IV-6m" href="#IV-6"><small>[6]</small></a> +The income of a +single planter, once a poor peasant, has amounted +to hundreds of thousands sterling. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image54" id="image54"></a> +<a href="images/image054.jpg"> +<img src="images/image054_thumb.jpg" +alt="ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" +title="ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa." +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Dotted over the islands, here nestling on a mountain +side, there overlooking some blue inlet of the sea, +are more than two hundred plantations, or <i>rocas</i>, +whose buildings look like islands in a green sea of cacao +<a name="page102" id="page102"></a> +shrubs, above which rise the grey stems of such forest +trees as have been left to afford shade. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image55" id="image55"></a> +<a href="images/image055.jpg"> +<img src="images/image055_thumb.jpg" +alt="CARRYING CACAO TO THE RAILWAY STATION, NSAWAM, GOLD COAST." +title="CARRYING CACAO TO THE RAILWAY STATION, NSAWAM, GOLD COAST." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CARRYING CACAO TO THE RAILWAY STATION, NSAWAM, GOLD COAST. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Here, not only have the cultivation, fermentation +and drying of cacao been brought to the highest state +of perfection, but the details of organisation—planters' +homes, hospitals, cottages, drying sheds and the Decauville +railways—are often models of their kind. +</p> + +<p> +Intelligent and courteous, the planters make delightful +hosts. At their homes, five thousand miles away +from Europe, the visitor, who knows what it means +to struggle with steaming, virgin forests, rank encroaching +vegetation, deadly fevers, and the physical and +mental inertia engendered by the tropics, will marvel +<a name="page103" id="page103"></a> +at the courage and energy that have triumphed over +such obstacles. Calculating from various estimates, +each labourer in the islands appears to produce about +1,640 pounds of cacao yearly, and the average yield +per cultivated acre is 480 pounds, or about 30 pounds +more than that of Trinidad in 1898. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image56" id="image56"></a> +<a href="images/image056.jpg"> +<img src="images/image056_thumb.jpg" +alt="WAGON LOADS OF CACAO BEING TAKEN FROM MESSRS. CADBURY'S DEPOT TO THE BEACH, ACCRA." +title="WAGON LOADS OF CACAO BEING TAKEN FROM MESSRS. CADBURY'S DEPOT TO THE BEACH, ACCRA." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +WAGON LOADS OF CACAO BEING TAKEN FROM MESSRS. CADBURY'S DEPOT TO THE BEACH, ACCRA. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +As there is no available labour in San Thomé, the +planters get their workers from the mainland of Africa. +Prior to the year 1908, the labour system of the islands +was responsible for grave abuses. This has now been +changed. Natives from the Portuguese colonies of +Angola and Mozambique now enter freely into contracts +ranging from one to five years, two years being +the time generally chosen. At the end of their term of +work they either re-contract or return to their native +land with their savings, with which they generally buy +a wife. The readiness with which the natives volunteer +for the work on the islands is proof both of the soundness +of the system of contract and of the good treatment +they receive at the hands of the planters. +<a name="page104" id="page104"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image57" id="image57"></a> +<a href="images/image057.jpg"> +<img src="images/image057_thumb.jpg" +alt="THE BUILDINGS OF THE BOA ENTRADA CACAO ESTATE, SAN THOMÉ." +title="THE BUILDINGS OF THE BOA ENTRADA CACAO ESTATE, SAN THOMÉ." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +THE BUILDINGS OF THE BOA ENTRADA CACAO ESTATE, SAN THOMÉ. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Unfortunately, the mortality of the plantation +labourers has generally been very heavy, one large and +well-managed estate recording on an average of seven +years an annual death rate of 148 per thousand, and +many <i>rocas</i> have still more appalling records. Against +this, other plantations only a few miles away may show +a mortality approximating to that of an average European +city. In February, 1918, the workers in San Thomé +numbered 39,605, and the deaths during the previous +year, 1917, were 1,808, thus showing on official figures +an annual mortality of 45 per thousand. Comparing +this with the 26 per thousand of Trinidad, and remembering +that most of the San Thomé labourers are +in the prime of life, it will be seen that this death rate +represents a heavy loss of life and justifies the continued +demand from the British cocoa manufacturers +<a name="page105" id="page105"></a> +for the appointment and report of a special medical +commission. +</p> + +<p> +The Portuguese Government is prepared to meet +this demand, for it has recently sent a Commissioner, +Dr. Joaquim Gouveia, to San Thomé to make a +thorough examination of labour conditions, including +work, food, housing, hospitals and medical attendance, +and to report fully and confidentially to the Portuguese +Colonial Secretary. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image58" id="image58"></a> +<a href="images/image058.jpg"> +<img src="images/image058_thumb.jpg" +alt="DRYING CACAO AT AGUA IZE, SAN THOMÉ. +The trays are on wheels, which run on rails." +title="DRYING CACAO AT AGUA IZE, SAN THOMÉ. +The trays are on wheels, which run on rails." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DRYING CACAO AT AGUA IZE, SAN THOMÉ.<br /> +The trays are on wheels, which run on rails. +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +If this important step is followed by adequate +measures of reform there is every reason to hope that +the result will be a material reduction in the death +rate, as the good health enjoyed on some of the <i>rocas</i> +shows San Thomé to be not more unhealthy than other +tropical islands. +</p> + + +<p> +CAMEROONS. +</p> + +<p> +The Cameroons, which we took from the Germans +in 1916, is also on the West Coast of Africa. It lags far +behind the Gold Coast in output, although both commenced +to grow cacao about the same time. The<a name="page106" id="page106"></a> +Germans spent great sums in the Cameroons in giving +the industry a scientific basis, they adopted the "estate +plan," and possibly the fact that they employ contract +labour explains why they have not had the same phenomenal +success that the natives working for themselves +have achieved on the Gold Coast. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image59" id="image59"></a> +<a href="images/image059.jpg"> +<img src="images/image059_thumb.jpg" +alt="BARREL ROLLING, GOLD COAST." +title="BARREL ROLLING, GOLD COAST." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +BARREL ROLLING, GOLD COAST. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Various countries and districts which are responsible +for about 97 per cent. of the world's cacao crop +have now been named and briefly commented upon. +Of other producing areas, the islands, Ceylon and +Java, are worthy of mention. In both of these (as also +in Venezuela, Samoa<a name="IV-7m" id="IV-7m" href="#IV-7"><small>[7]</small></a> +and Madagascar) is grown the +<a name="page107" id="page107"></a> +criollo cacao, which produces the plump, sweet beans +with the cinnamon "break." Cacao beans from Ceylon +or Java are easily recognised by their appearance, because, +being washed, they have beautiful clean shells, +but there is a serious objection to washed shells, namely, +that they are brittle and as thin as paper, so that many +are broken before they reach the manufacturer. Ceylon +is justly famous for its fine "old red"; along with +this a fair quantity of inferior cacao is produced, which +by being called Ceylon (such is the power of a good +name), tends to claim a higher price than its quality +warrants. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image60" id="image60"></a> +<a href="images/image060.jpg"> +<img src="images/image060_thumb.jpg" +alt="BAGGING CACAO, GOLD COAST. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" +title="BAGGING CACAO, GOLD COAST. +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +BAGGING CACAO, GOLD COAST.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa." +</p> +</div> + + +<p> </p> + +<h3>CACAO MARKETS.</h3> + +<h3><i>From the Plantation to the European Market.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image61" id="image61"></a> +<a href="images/image061.jpg"> +<img src="images/image061_thumb.jpg" +alt="SURF BOATS BY THE SIDE OF THE OCEAN LINER, ACCRA." +title="SURF BOATS BY THE SIDE OF THE OCEAN LINER, ACCRA." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SURF BOATS BY THE SIDE OF THE OCEAN LINER, ACCRA. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +It is mentioned above that on the Gold Coast cacao +is brought down to Accra as head-loads, or in barrels, +or in motor-lorries. These methods are exceptional; +in other countries it is usually put in sacks at the estate. +Every estate has its own characteristic mark, which is +<a name="page108" id="page108"></a> +<a name="page109" id="page109"></a> +stamped on the bags, and this is recognised by the +buyers in Europe, and gives a clue to the quality of +the contents. There is not as yet a uniform weight for +a bag of cacao, although they all vary between one and +two cwt., thus the bags from Africa contain 1-1/4 cwts., +whilst those from Guayaquil contain 1-3/4 cwts. In these +bags the cacao is taken to the port on the backs of mules, +in horse or ox carts, in canoes down a stream, or more +rarely, by rail. It is then conveyed by lighters or surf +boats to the great ocean liners which lie anchored off +the shore. In the hold of the liner it is rocked thousands +of miles over the azure seas of the tropics to the grey-green +seas of the temperate zone. In pre-war days a +million bags used to go to Hamburg, three-quarters +of a million to New York, half a million to Havre, and +only a trifling quarter of a million to London. Now +London is the leading cacao market of the world. +During the war the supplies were cut off from Hamburg, +whilst Liverpool, becoming a chief port for +African cacao, in 1916 imported a million bags. Then +New York began to gorge cacao, and in 1917 created +a record, importing some two and a half million bags, +or about 150,000 tons. Whilst everything is in so fluid +a condition it is unwise to prophesy; it may, however, +be said that there are many who think, now that the +consumption of cocoa and chocolate in America has +reached such a prodigious figure, that New York may +yet oust London and become the central dominating +market of the world. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Difficulties of Buying.</i></h3> + + +<p> +Every country produces a different kind of cacao, +and the cacao from any two plantations in the same +country often shows wide variation. It may be said that +there are as many kinds of cacao as there are of apples, +cacao showing as marked differences as exhibited by +crabs and Blenheims, not to mention James Grieves, +Russets, Worcester Pearmains, Newton Wonders, Lord +Derbys, Belle de Boskoops, and so forth. Further, +<a name="page110" id="page110"></a> +<a name="page111" id="page111"></a> +whilst the bulk of the cacao is good and sound, a little +of the cacao grown in any district is liable to have +suffered from drought or from attacks by moulds or +insect pests. It will be realised from these fragmentary +remarks that the buyer must exercise perpetual vigilance. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image62" id="image62"></a> +<a href="images/image062.jpg"> +<img src="images/image062_thumb.jpg" +alt="BAGGING CACAO BEANS FOR SHIPMENT, TRINIDAD." +title="BAGGING CACAO BEANS FOR SHIPMENT, TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +BAGGING CACAO BEANS FOR SHIPMENT, TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image63" id="image63"></a> +<a href="images/image063.jpg"> +<img src="images/image063_thumb.jpg" +alt="TRANSFERRING BAGS OF CACAO BEANS TO LIGHTERS, TRINIDAD." +title="TRANSFERRING BAGS OF CACAO BEANS TO LIGHTERS, TRINIDAD." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +TRANSFERRING BAGS OF CACAO BEANS TO LIGHTERS, TRINIDAD. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Cacao Sales.</i></h3> + +<p> +Before the Cocoa Prices Orders were published +(March, 1918) the manner of conducting the sale of +cacao in London was as follows. Brokers' lists giving the +kinds of cacao for sale, and the number of bags of each, +were sent, together with samples, to the buyers some +days beforehand, so that they were able to decide +what they wished to purchase and the price they were +willing to pay. The sales always took place at 11 o'clock +on Tuesdays in the Commercial Sale Room in Mincing +Lane, that narrow street off Fenchurch Street, +where the air is so highly charged with expert knowledge +of the world's produce, that it would illuminate +the prosaic surroundings with brilliant flashes if it +could become visible. On the morning of the sale +samples of the cacaos are on exhibit at the principal +brokers. The man in the street brought into the broker's +office would ask what these strange beans might be. +"A new kind of almond?" he might ask. And then, +on being told they were cacao, he would see nothing +to choose between all the various lots and wonder why +so much fuss was made over discriminating amongst +the similar and distinguishing the identical. He might +even marvel a little at the expert knowledge of the +buyers; yet, frankly, the pertinent facts concerning +quality, known by the buyer, are fewer and no more +difficult to learn than the thousand and one facts a lad +must have at his finger ends to pass the London +Matriculation; they are valued because they are inaccessible +to the multitude; only a few people have +the opportunity of learning them, and their use may +make or mar fortunes. The judgment of quality is, +<a name="page112" id="page112"></a> +however, only one side of the art of buying. We have +to add to these a knowledge of the conditions prevailing +in the various markets of the world, a knowledge of +stocks and probable supplies, and given this knowledge, +an ability to estimate their effect, together with +other conditions, agricultural, political and social, on +the price of the commodity. The room in which the +sales are conducted is not a large one, and usually +not more than a hundred people, buyers, pressmen, +etc., are present. Not a single cacao bean is visible, +and it might be an auction sale of property for all the +uninitiated could tell. The cacao is put up in lots. +Usually the sales proceed quietly, and it is difficult to +realize that many thousands of bags of cacao are changing +hands. The buyers have perfect trust in the broker's +descriptions; they know the invariable fair-play of +the British broker, which is a by-word the world over. +The machinery of the proceedings is lubricated by an +easy flow of humour. Sometimes a few bags of sea-damaged +cacao or of cacao sweepings are put up, and +a good deal of keenness is shown by the individuals +who buy this stuff. It is curious that a whole crowd of +busy people will allow their time to be taken up whilst +there is a spirited fight between two or three buyers +for a single bag. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst the London Auction Sales are of importance +as fixing the prices for the various markets, and reflecting +to a certain extent the position of supply and demand, +only a fraction of the world's cacao changes +hands at the Auction Sales, the greater part of it being +bought privately for forward delivery. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Prices and Quotations.</i></h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image64" id="image64"></a> +<a href="images/image064.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image064_thumb.jpg" +alt="DIAGRAM SHOWING VARIATION IN PRICE OF CACAO BEANS FROM 1913 TO 1919." +title="DIAGRAM SHOWING VARIATION IN PRICE OF CACAO BEANS FROM 1913 TO 1919." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DIAGRAM SHOWING VARIATION IN PRICE OF CACAO BEANS FROM 1913 TO 1919. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The price of cacao is liable to fluctuations like every +other product, thus in 1907 Trinidad cacao rose to one +shilling a pound, whilst there have been periods when +it has only fetched sixpence per pound. On April 2nd, +1918, the Food Controller fixed the prices of the finest +<a name="page113" id="page113"></a> +<a name="page114" id="page114"></a> +qualities of the different varieties of raw cacao as +follows: +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">British West<br />Africa (Accra)</td><td></td><td align="left">65s. per cwt.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Bahia<br />Cameroons<br />San Thomé<br />Congo<br />Grenada</td> +<td>\<br /> |<br /> }<br /> |<br />/</td> +<td align="left">85s. " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Trinidad<br />Demerara<br />Guayaquil<br />Surinam</td> +<td>\<br /> }<br />/</td> +<td align="left">90s. " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ceylon<br />Java<br />Samoa</td> +<td>\<br /> }<br />/</td> +<td align="left">100s. " "</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The diagram on p. 113 shows the average market price +in the United Kingdom of some of the more important +cacaos before, during, and after the war. The most +striking change is the sudden rise when the Government +control was removed. All cacaos showed a substantial +advance varying from 80 to 150 per cent. on +pre-war values. Further large advances have taken place +in the early months of 1920. +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Call of the Tropics.</i></h3> + +<p> +Many a young man, reading in some delightful book +of travel, has longed to go to the tropics and see the +wonders for himself. There can be no doubt that a +sojourn in equatorial regions is one of the most educative +of experiences. In support of this I cannot do +better than quote Grant Allen, who regarded the +tropics as the best of all universities. "But above all +in educational importance I rank the advantage of +seeing human nature in its primitive surroundings, +far from the squalid and chilly influences of the tail-end +of the Glacial epoch." ... "We must forget +all this formal modern life; we must break away from +this cramped, cold, northern world; we must find +ourselves face to face at last, in Pacific isles or African +<a name="page115" id="page115"></a> +forests, with the underlying truths of simple naked +nature." +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image65" id="image65"></a> +<a href="images/image065.jpg"> +<img src="images/image065_thumb.jpg" +alt="GROUP OF WORKERS ON CACAO ESTATE. +Some are standing on the Drying Platform, which is the roof of the Fermentary." +title="GROUP OF WORKERS ON CACAO ESTATE. +Some are standing on the Drying Platform, which is the roof of the Fermentary." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +GROUP OF WORKERS ON CACAO ESTATE.<br /> +Some are standing on the Drying Platform, which is the roof of the Fermentary. +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +Many will recall how Charles Kingsley's longing to +see the tropics was ultimately satisfied. In his book, +in which he describes how he "At Last" visited the +West Indies, we read that he encountered a happy +Scotchman living a quiet life in the dear little island +of Monos. "I looked at the natural beauty and repose; +at the human vigour and happiness; and I said +to myself, and said it often afterwards in the West +Indies: 'Why do not other people copy this wise +Scot? Why should not many a young couple, who +have education, refinement, resources in themselves, +but are, happily or unhappily for them, unable to +keep a brougham and go to London balls, retreat to +some such paradise as this (and there are hundreds like +<a name="page116" id="page116"></a> +it to be found in the West Indies), leaving behind them +false civilisation, and vain desires, and useless show; +and there live in simplicity and content 'The Gentle +Life'?" +</p> + + +<h3><i>The Planter's Life.</i></h3> + +<p> +Few who go to the tropics escape their fascination, +and of those that are young, few return to colder climes. +Some become overseers, others, more fortunate, own +the estates they manage. It is inadvisable for the inexperienced +to start on the enterprise of buying and +planting an estate with less capital than two or three +thousand pounds; but, once established, a cacao +plantation may be looked upon as a permanent investment, +which will continue to bear and give a good +yield as long as it receives proper attention. +</p> + +<p> +In the recently published <i>Letters of Anthony Farley</i> +the writer tells how Farley encounters in South America +an old college friend of his, who in his early days was +on the high road to a brilliant political career. Here he +is, a planter. He explains: +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p> +"My mother was Spanish; her brother owned this place. When +he died it came to me." +</p> + +<p> +"How did your uncle hold it through the various revolutions?" +</p> + +<p> +"Nothing simpler. He became an American citizen. When +trouble threatened he made a bee-line for the United States Consulate. +I'm British, of course. Well, just when I had decided upon a +political life, I found it necessary to come here to straighten things +out. One month lengthened itself into a year. I grew fascinated. +Here I felt a sense of immense usefulness. On the mountain side +my coffee-trees flourished; down in the valley grew cacao." +</p> + +<p> +"I grow mine on undulations." +</p> + +<p> +"You needn't, you know, so long as you drain." +</p> + +<p> +"Yes, but draining on the flat is the devil." +</p> + +<p> +"Anyhow, I always liked animals—you haven't seen my pigs +yet—and horses and mules need careful tending. A cable arrived +one morning announcing an impending dissolution. I felt like an +unwilling bridegroom called to marry an ugly bride. I invited my +soul. Here, thought I to myself, are animals and foodstuffs—good, +honest food at that. If I go back it is only to fill people's bellies with +political east wind. +<a name="page117" id="page117"></a> +</p> + +<p> +"To come to the point, I decided to grow coffee and cacao. I +cabled infinite regrets. The decision once made, I was happy as a +sandboy. <i>J'y suis, j'y reste</i>, said I to myself, said I. Nor have I ever +cast one longing look behind."<a name="IV-8m" id="IV-8m" href="#IV-8"><small>[8]</small></a> +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This is fiction, but I think it is true that very few, +if any, who become planters in the tropics ever return +permanently to England. The hospitality of the +planters is proverbial: there must be something good +and free about the planter's life to produce men so +genial and generous. There is a picture that I often +recall, and never without pleasure. A young planter +and I had, with the help of more or less willing mules, +climbed over the hills from one valley to the next. +The valley we had left is noted for its beauty, but to +me it had become familiar; the other valley I saw +now for the first time. The sides were steep and +covered with trees, and I could only see one dwelling +in the valley. We reached this by a circuitous path +through cacao trees. Approaching it as we did, the +bungalow seemed completely cut off from the rest of +the world. We were welcomed by the planter and his +wife, and by those of the children who were not shy. +I have never seen more chubby or jolly kiddies, and I +know from the sweetness of the children that their +mother must have given them unremitting attention. +I wondered indeed if she ever left them for a moment. +I knew, too, from the situation of the bungalow in the +heart of the hills that visitors were not likely to be +frequent. The planter's life is splendid for a man who +likes open air and nature, but I had sometimes thought +that their wives would not find the life so good. I was +mistaken. When we came away, after riding some +distance, through a gap in the cacao we saw across the +valley a group of happy children. They saw us, and all +of them, even the shy ones, waved us adieux. +<a name="page118" id="page118"></a> +</p> + + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image66" id="image66"></a> +<a href="images/image066.jpg"> +<img src="images/image066_thumb.jpg" +alt="CARTING CACAO TO RAILWAY STATION, CEYLON." +title="CARTING CACAO TO RAILWAY STATION, CEYLON." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CARTING CACAO TO RAILWAY STATION, CEYLON. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image67" id="image67"></a> +<a href="images/image067.jpg"> +<img src="images/image067_thumb.jpg" +alt="THE CARENAGE, GRENADA." +title="THE CARENAGE, GRENADA." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +THE CARENAGE, GRENADA. +</p> +</div> + + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-1" id="IV-1" href="#IV-1m">[1]</a> British Possessions. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-2" id="IV-2" href="#IV-2m">[2]</a> These figures, and others quoted later in this chapter, are +estimates given by Messrs. Theo. Vasmer & Co. in their reports. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-3" id="IV-3" href="#IV-3m">[3]</a> Cacao production in 1919: Trinidad 27,185 tons; Grenada +4,020 tons. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-4" id="IV-4" href="#IV-4m">[4]</a> +De Candolle, <i>Origin of Cultivated Plants</i>, quoted by R. Whymper. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-5" id="IV-5" href="#IV-5m">[5]</a> +"Towards this latter result Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd., +rendered great assistance. This firm sent representatives into the +country, who proved to the natives that they were willing to pay an +enhanced price for cocoa prepared in a manner suitable for their +requirements. A fair amount of cocoa was purchased by them, and +demonstrations were made in some places with regard to the proper +mode of fermentation." (The Agricultural and Forest Products of +British West Africa. <i>Imperial Institute Handbook</i>, by G.C. Dudgeon). +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-6" id="IV-6" href="#IV-6m">[6]</a> +The <i>Gordian's</i> estimate for the amount exported in 1919 +is 40,766 tons. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-7" id="IV-7" href="#IV-7m">[7]</a> +Robert Louis Stevenson was one of the pioneers in cacao planting +in Samoa, as readers of his <i>Vailima Letters</i> will remember. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="IV-8" id="IV-8" href="#IV-8m">[8]</a> Quoted from the <i>New Age</i>, where the <i>Letters of Anthony +Farley</i> first appeared. +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page119" id="page119"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter5" id="chapter5">CHAPTER V</a></h2> + +<h3>THE MANUFACTURE OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +The Indians, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice +in doing it; they roast the kernels in earthen pots, then free +them from their skins, and afterwards crush and grind +them between two stones, and so form cakes of it with +their hands. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>Natural History of Chocolate</i>, +R. Brookes, 1730. +</div> + + +<h3><i>Early Methods in the Tropics.</i></h3> + +<p> +As the cacao bean is grown in tropical countries, +it is there that we must look for the first attempts +at manufacturing from it a drink or a foodstuff. +The primitive method of preparation was very +simple, consisting in roasting the beans in a pot or on +a shovel to develop their flavour, winnowing in the +wind, and then rubbing the broken shelled beans between +stones until quite fine. The curious thing is that +on grinding the cacao bean in the heat of a tropical day +we do not produce a powder but a paste. This is because +half the cacao bean consists of a fat which is +liquid at 90° F., a temperature which is reached in the +shade in tropical countries. This paste was then made +into small rolls and put in a cool place to set. Thus was +produced the primitive unsweetened drinking chocolate. +This is the method, which Elizabethans, who +ventured into the tangled forests of equatorial America, +found in use; and this is the method they brought +home to Europe. In the tropics these simple processes +are followed to this day, but in Europe they have +undergone many elaborations and refinements. +<a name="page120" id="page120"></a> +</p> + +<p> +If the reader will look at the illustration entitled +"Women grinding chocolate," he will see how the +brittle roasted bean is reduced to a paste in primitive +manufacture. A stone, shaped like a rolling-pin, is +being pushed to and fro over a concave slab, on which +the smashed beans have already been reduced to a paste +of a doughy consistency. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image68" id="image68"></a> +<a href="images/image068.jpg"> +<img src="images/image068_thumb.jpg" +alt="EARLY FACTORY METHODS." +title="EARLY FACTORY METHODS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +EARLY FACTORY METHODS.<br /> +Fig. 1 is a workman roasting the cacao in an iron kettle over a +furnace. He has to stir the beans to keep them from burning. Fig. 2 +is a person sifting and freeing the roasted kernels (which when +broken into fragments are called "<i>nibs</i>") from their husks or shell. +Fig. 3 shows a workman pounding the shell-free nibs in an iron +mortar. Fig. 4 represents a workman grinding the nibs on a hard +smooth stone with an iron roller. The grinding is performed over a +chafing-dish of burning charcoal, as it is necessary, for ease of grinding, +to keep the paste in a liquid condition.</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Early European Manufacture.</i></h3> + +<p> +The conversion of these small scale operations into +the early factory process is well shown in the plate +which I reproduce above from <i>Arts and Sciences</i>, published +in 1768. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image69" id="image69"></a> +<a href="images/image069.jpg"> +<img src="images/image069_thumb.jpg" +alt="WOMEN GRINDING CHOCOLATE. +From Squier "Nicaragua"" +title="WOMEN GRINDING CHOCOLATE. +From Squier "Nicaragua"" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +WOMEN GRINDING CHOCOLATE.<br /> +From Squier "Nicaragua" +</p> +</div> + +<p> +A certain atmosphere of dreamy intellectuality is +<a name="page121" id="page121"></a> +<a name="page122" id="page122"></a> +associated with coffee, so that the roasting of it is felt +to be a romantic occupation. The same poetic atmosphere +surrounded the manufacture of drinking chocolate +in the early days: the writers who revealed the +secrets of its preparation were conscious that they were +giving man a new æsthetic delight and the subject is +treated lovingly and lingeringly. One, Pietro Metastasio, +went so far as to write a "cantata" describing its +manufacture. He describes the grinding as being done +by a vigorous man, and truly, to grind by hand is a +very laborious operation, which happily in more recent +times has been performed by the use of power-driven +mills. +</p> + +<p> +Operations on a large scale followed the founding of +Fry and Sons at Bristol in 1728, and of Lombart, "la +plus ancienne chocolaterie de France," in Paris in +1760. In Germany the first chocolate factory was +erected at Steinhunde in 1756, under the patronage +of Prince Wilhelm, whilst in America the well-known +firm of Walter Baker and Co. began in a small way in +1765. From the methods adopted in these factories +have gradually developed the modern processes which +I am about to describe. +</p> + + +<h3>MODERN PRACTICE.</h3> + +<p>As the early stages in the manufacture of cocoa and +of chocolate are often identical, the processes which +are common to both are first described, and then some +individual consideration is given to each.</p> + + +<h4>(<i>a</i>) <i>Arrival at the Factory.</i></h4> + +<p> +The cacao is largely stored in warehouses, from +which it is removed as required. It has remarkable +keeping properties, and can be kept in a good store for +several years without loss of quality. Samples of cacao +beans in glass bottles have been found to be in perfect +condition after thirty years. Some factories have stores +in which stand thousands of bags of cacao drawn from +many ports round the equator. There is something +<a name="page123" id="page123"></a>very pleasing about huge stacks of bags of cacao seen +against the luminous white walls of a well-lighted +store. The symmetry of their construction, and the +continued repetition of the same form, are never better +shown than when the men, climbing up the sides of a +stack against which they look small, unbuild the mighty +heap, the bags falling on to a continuous band which +carries them jauntily out of the store. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image70" id="image70"></a> +<a href="images/image070.jpg"> +<img src="images/image070_thumb.jpg" +alt="PART OF A CACAO BEAN WAREHOUSE, SHOWING ENDLESS BAND CONVEYOR. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville)." +title="PART OF A CACAO BEAN WAREHOUSE, SHOWING ENDLESS BAND CONVEYOR. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +PART OF A CACAO BEAN WAREHOUSE, SHOWING ENDLESS BAND CONVEYOR.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville). +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>b</i>) <i>Sorting the Beans.</i></h4> + +<p> +As all cacao is liable to contain a little free shell, +dried pulp (often taken for twigs), threads of sacking +and other foreign matter, it is very carefully sieved +<a name="page124" id="page124"></a> +and sorted before passing on to the roasting shop. In +this process curios are occasionally separated, such as +palm kernels, cowrie shells, shea butter nuts, good +luck seeds and "crab's eyes." The essential part of one +type of machine (<i>see illustration</i>) which accomplishes +this sorting is an inclined revolving cylinder of wire +gauze along which the beans pass. The cylinder forms +a continuous set of sieves of different sized mesh, one +sieve allowing only sand to pass, another only very +small beans or fragments of beans, and finally one +holding back anything larger than single beans (<i>e.g.</i>, +"cobs," that is, a collection of two or more beans stuck +together). +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image71" id="image71"></a> +<a href="images/image071.jpg"> +<img src="images/image071_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO BEAN SORTING AND CLEANING MACHINE. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Ltd., Willesden." +title="CACAO BEAN SORTING AND CLEANING MACHINE. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Ltd., Willesden." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO BEAN SORTING AND CLEANING MACHINE.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Ltd., Willesden. +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +Another type of cleaning machine is illustrated by +the <a href="#image72">diagram</a> on the opposite page. +</p> + +<p> +This machine with its shaking sieves and blast of air +makes a great clatter and fuss. It produces, however, +what the manufacturers desire—a clean bean sorted to +size. +<a name="page125" id="page125"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image72" id="image72"></a> +<a href="images/image072.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image072_thumb.jpg" +alt="DIAGRAM OF CACAO BEAN CLEANING MACHINE." +title="DIAGRAM OF CACAO BEAN CLEANING MACHINE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +DIAGRAM OF CACAO BEAN CLEANING MACHINE.<br /> +This is a box fitted with shaking sieves down which the cacao +beans pass in a current of air. Having come over some large and very +powerful magnets, which take out any nails or fragments of iron, +they fall on to a sieve (1/4-inch holes) which the engineer describes as +"rapidly reciprocating and arranged on a slight incline and mounted +on spring bars." This allows grit to pass through. The beans then +roll down a plane on to a sieve (3/8-inch holes) which separates the +broken beans, and finally on to a sieve with oblong holes which +allows the beans to fall through whilst retaining the clusters. The +beans encounter a strong blast of air which brushes from them any +shell or dust clinging to them. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>c</i>) <i>Roasting the Beans.</i></h4> + +<p> +As with coffee so with cacao, the characteristic +flavour and aroma are only developed on roasting. +Messrs. Bainbridge and Davies (chemists to Messrs. +Rowntree) have shown that the aroma of cacao is +chiefly due to an amazingly minute quantity (0.0006 +per cent.) of linalool, a colourless liquid with a powerful +fragrant odour, a modification of which occurs in +bergamot, coriander and lavender. Everyone notices +the aromatic odour which permeates the atmosphere +<a name="page126" id="page126"></a> +round a chocolate factory. This odour is a bye-product +of the roasting shop; possibly some day an enterprising +chemist will prevent its escape or capture it, +and sell it in bottles for flavouring confectionery, but +for the present it serves only to announce in an appetising +way the presence of a cocoa or chocolate works. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image73" id="image73"></a> +<a href="images/image073.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image073_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH GAS HEATED CACAO ROASTER." +title="SECTION THROUGH GAS HEATED CACAO ROASTER." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH GAS HEATED CACAO ROASTER. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Roasting is a delicate operation requiring experience +and discretion. Even in these days of scientific management +it remains as much an art as a science. It is +conducted in revolving drums to ensure constant +agitation, the drums being heated either over coke +fires or by gas. Less frequently the heating is effected +by a hot blast of air or by having inside the drum a +number of pipes containing super-heated steam. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image74" id="image74"></a> +<a href="images/image074.jpg"> +<img src="images/image074_thumb.jpg" +alt="ROASTING CACAO BEANS. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville)." +title="ROASTING CACAO BEANS. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +ROASTING CACAO BEANS.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros'. Works, Bournville). +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +The diagram and photo show one of the types of +<a name="page127" id="page127"></a> +<a name="page128" id="page128"></a> +roasting machines used at Bournville. It resembles an +ordinary coffee roaster, the beans being fed in through +a hopper and heated by gas in the slowly revolving +cylinder. The beans can be heard lightly tumbling +one over the other, and the aroma round the roaster +increases in fullness as they get hotter and hotter. The +temperature which the beans reach in ordinary roasting +is not very high, varying round 135° C. (275° F), and +the average period of roasting is about one hour. The +amount of loss of weight on roasting is considerable +(some seven or eight per cent.), and varies with the +amount of moisture present in the raw beans. +</p> + +<p> +There have been attempts to replace the æsthetic +judgment of man, as to the point at which to stop +roasting, by scientific machinery. One rather interesting +machine was so devised that the cacao roasting +drum was fitted with a sort of steelyard, and this, when +the loss of weight due to roasting had reached a certain +amount, swung over and rang a bell, indicating dramatically +that the roasting was finished. As beans vary +amongst other things in the percentage of moisture +which they contain, the machine has not replaced the +experienced operator. He takes samples from the +drum from time to time, and when the aroma has the +character desired, the beans are rapidly discharged +into a trolley with a perforated bottom, which is brought +over a cold current of air. The object of this refinement +is to stop the roasting instantly and prevent even +a suspicion of burning. +</p> + +<p> +After roasting, the shell is brittle and quite free from +the cotyledons or kernel. The kernel has become +glossy and friable and chocolate brown in colour, and +it crushes readily between the fingers into small angular +fragments (the "nibs" of commerce), giving off +during the breaking down a rich warm odour of +chocolate. +</p> + +<h4>(<i>d</i>) <i>Removing the Shells.</i></h4> + +<p> +It has been stated (see <i>Fatty Foods</i>, by Revis and +<a name="page129" id="page129"></a> +Bolton) that it was formerly the practice not to remove +the shell. This is incorrect, the more usual practice +from the earliest times has been to remove the shells, +though not so completely as they are removed by the +efficient machinery of to-day. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image75" id="image75"></a> +<a href="images/image075.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image075_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO BEAN, SHELL AND GERM." +title="CACAO BEAN, SHELL AND GERM." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO BEAN, SHELL AND GERM. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +In <i>A Curious Treatise on the Nature and Quality of +Chocolate</i>, by Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma (1685), +we read: "And if you peel the cacao, and take it out +of its little shell, the drink thereof will be more dainty +and delicious." Willoughby, in his <i>Travels in Spain</i>, +(1664), writes: "They first toast the berries to get off +the husk," and R. Brookes, in the <i>Natural History of +Chocolate</i> (1730), says: "The Indians ... roast +the kernels in earthen pots, then free them from their +<a name="page130" id="page130"></a> +skins, and afterwards crush and grind them between +two stones." +</p> + +<p> +He further definitely recommends that the beans +"be roasted enough to have their skins come off easily, +which should be done one by one, laying them apart +... for these skins being left among the chocolate, +will not dissolve in any liquor, nor even in the stomach, +and fall to the bottom of the chocolate-cups as if the +kernels had not been cleaned." +</p> + +<p> +That the "Indian" practice of removing the shells +was followed from the commencement of the industry +in England, is shown by the old plate which we have +reproduced on <a href="#page120">p. 120</a> from <i>Arts and Sciences</i>. +</p> + +<p> +The removal of the shell, which in the raw condition +is tough and adheres to the kernel, is greatly +facilitated by roasting. If we place a roasted bean in the +palm of the hand and press it with the thumb, the +whole cracks up into crisp pieces. It is now quite easy +to blow away the thin pieces of shell because they offer +a greater surface to the air and are lighter than the +compact little lumps or "nibs" which are left behind. +This illustrates the principle of all shelling or husking +machines. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>e</i>) <i>Breaking the Bean into Fragments.</i></h4> + +<p> +The problem is to break down the bean to just the +right size. The pieces must be sufficiently small to +allow the nib and shell readily to part company, but it +is important to remember that the smaller the pieces +of shell and nib, the less efficient will the winnowing +be, and it is usual to break the beans whilst they are +still warm to avoid producing particles of extreme +fineness. The breaking down may be accomplished by +passing the beans through a pair of rollers at such a +distance apart that the bean is cracked without being +crushed. Or it may be effected in other ways, <i>e.g.</i>, by +the use of an adjustable serrated cone revolving in a +serrated conical case. In the diagram they are called +kibbling cones. +<a name="page131" id="page131"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image76" id="image76"></a> +<a href="images/image076.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image076_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH KIBBLING CONES AND GERM SCREENS." +title="SECTION THROUGH KIBBLING CONES AND GERM SCREENS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH KIBBLING CONES AND GERM SCREENS. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>f</i>) <i>Separating the Germs.</i></h4> + +<p> +About one per cent. of the cacao bean fragments +consists of "germs." The "germ" is the radicle of the +cacao seed, or that part of the cacao seed which on +germination forms the root. The germs are small and +rod-shaped, and being very hard are generally assumed +to be less digestible than the nib. They are separated +by being passed through revolving gauze drums, the +holes in which are the same size and shape as the +germs, so that the germs pass through whilst the nib +is retained. If a freakish carpenter were to try separating +shop-floor sweepings, consisting of a jumble of +chunks of wood (nib), shavings (shell) and nails (germ) +by sieving through a grid-iron, he would find that not +only the nails passed through but also some sawdust +and fine shavings. So in the above machine the finer +<a name="page132" id="page132"></a> +nib and shell pass through with the germ. This germ +mixture, known as "smalls" is dealt with in a special +machine, whilst the larger nib and shell are conveyed +to the chief winnowing machine. In this machine the +mixture is first sorted according to size and then the +nib and shell separated from one another. The mixture +is passed down long revolving cylindrical sieves and +encounters a larger and larger mesh as it proceeds, and +thus becomes sieved into various sizes. The separation +of the shell from the nib is now effected by a powerful +current of air, the large nib falling against the current, +whilst the shell is carried with it and drops into another +compartment. It is amusing to stand and watch the +continuous stream of nibs rushing down, like hail in a +storm, into the screw conveyor. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image77" id="image77"></a> +<a href="images/image077.jpg"> +<img src="images/image077_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH WINNOWING MACHINE." +title="SECTION THROUGH WINNOWING MACHINE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH WINNOWING MACHINE. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This is the process in essence—to follow the various +partially separated mixtures of shell and nib through +the several further separating machines would be +<a name="page133" id="page133"></a> +tedious; it is sufficient for the reader to know that +after the most elaborate precautions have been taken +the nib still contains about one per cent. of shell, and +that the nib obtained is only 78.5 per cent. of the +weight of raw beans originally taken. Most of the +larger makers of cocoa produce nib containing less than +two per cent. of shell, a standard which can only be +maintained by continuous vigilance. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image78" id="image78"></a> +<a href="images/image078.jpg"> +<img src="images/image078_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO GRINDING. +A battery of horizontal grinding mills, by which the cacao nibs are ground to paste +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.)" +title="CACAO GRINDING. +A battery of horizontal grinding mills, by which the cacao nibs are ground to paste +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO GRINDING.<br /> +A battery of horizontal grinding mills, by which the cacao nibs are ground to paste +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.) +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +The shell, the only waste material of any importance +produced in a chocolate factory, goes straight into +sacks ready for sale. The pure cacao nibs (once an +important article of commerce) proceed to the blenders +and thence to the grinding mill. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>g</i>) <i>Blending.</i></h4> + +<p> +We have seen that the beans are roasted separately +according to their kind and country so as to develop +in each its characteristic flavour. The pure nib is now +blended in proportions which are carefully chosen to +attain the result desired. +<a name="page134" id="page134"></a> +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>h</i>) <i>Grinding the Cacao Nibs to Produce Mass.</i></h4> + +<p> +In this process, by the mere act of grinding, the +miracle is performed of converting the brittle fragments +of the cacao bean into a chocolate-coloured fluid. +Half of the cacao bean is fat, and the grinding breaks +up the cells and liberates the fat, which at blood heat +melts to an oil. Any of the various machines used in +the industries for grinding might be used, but a special +type of mill has been devised for the purpose. +</p> + +<p> +In the grinding room of a cocoa factory one becomes +almost hypnotised by a hundred of these circular mill-stones +that rotate incessantly day and night. In Messrs. +Fry's factory the "giddy motion of the whirling mill" +is very much increased by a number of magnificent +horizontal driving wheels, each some 20 feet in diameter, +which form, as it were, a revolving ceiling to the +room. Your fascinated gaze beholds "two or three vast +circles, that have their revolving satellites like moons, +each on its own axis, and each governed by master +wheels. Watch them for any length of time and you +might find yourself presently going round and round +with them until you whirled yourself out of existence, +like the gyrating maiden in the fairy tale." +</p> + +<p> +In this type of grinding machine one mill stone +rotates on a fixed stone. The cacao nib falls from a +hopper through a hole in the centre of the upper stone +and, owing to the manner in which grooves are cut in +the two surfaces in contact, is gradually dragged between +the stones. The grooves are so cut in the two +stones that they point in opposite directions, and as +the one stone revolves on the other, a slicing or shearing +action is produced. The friction, due to the slicing +and shearing of the nib, keeps the stones hot, and they +become sufficiently warm to melt the fat in the ground +nib, so that there oozes from the outer edge of the +bottom or fixed stone a more or less viscous liquid or +paste. This finely ground nib is known as "mass." It +is simply liquified cacao bean, and solidifies on cooling +to a chocolate coloured block. +<a name="page135" id="page135"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image79" id="image79"></a> +<a href="images/image079.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image079_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH GRINDING STONES." +title="SECTION THROUGH GRINDING STONES." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH GRINDING STONES. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +This "mass" may be used for the production of +either cocoa or chocolate. When part of the fat (cacao +butter) is <i>taken away</i> the residue may be made to yield +cocoa. When sugar and cacao butter are <i>added</i> it yields +eating chocolate. Thus the two industries are seen to +be inter-dependent, the cacao butter which is pressed +out of the mass in the manufacture of cocoa being used +up in the production of chocolate. The manufacture +of cocoa will first be considered. +</p> + +<h4>(<i>i</i>) <i>Pressing out the excess of Butter.</i></h4> + +<div class="lef"> +<a name="image80" id="image80"></a> +<a href="images/image080.jpg"> +<img src="images/image080_thumb.jpg" +alt="A CACAO PRESS. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Lake, Orr & Co., Ltd." +title="A CACAO PRESS. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Lake, Orr & Co., Ltd." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +A CACAO PRESS.<br /> +Reproduced by permission<br /> +of Messrs. Lake, Orr<br /> +& Co., Ltd. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The liquified cacao bean or "mass," simply mixed +with sugar and cooled until it becomes a hard cake, +has been used by the British Navy for a hundred years +or more for the preparation of Jack's cup of cocoa. It +produces a fine rich drink much appreciated by our +<a name="page136" id="page136"></a> +hardy seamen, but it is somewhat too fatty to mix +evenly with water, and too rich to be suitable for those +with delicate digestions. Hence for the ordinary cocoa +of commerce it is usual to remove a portion of this fat. +</p> + +<p> +If "mass" be put into a cloth and pressed, a golden +oil (melted cacao butter) oozes through the cloth. In +practice this extraction of the +butter is done in various types +of presses. In one of the most +frequently used types, the +mass is poured into circular +steel pots, the top and bottom +of which are loose perforated +plates lined with felt pads. A +number of such pots are placed +one above another, and then +rammed together by a powerful +hydraulic ram. They look +like the parts of a slowly collapsing +telescope. The "mass" +is only gently pressed at first, +but as the butter flows away +and the material in the pot +becomes stiffer, it is subjected +to a gradually increasing +pressure. The ram, being +under pressure supplied by +pumps, pushes up with +enormous force. The steel +pots have to be sufficiently +strong to bear a great strain, as the ram often exerts a +pressure of 6,000 pounds per square inch. When the +required amount of butter has been pressed out, the +pot is found to contain not a paste, but a hard dry cake +of compressed cocoa. The liquified cacao bean put +into the pots contains 54 to 55 per cent. of butter, +whilst the cocoa press-cake taken out usually contains +only 25 to 30 per cent. The expressed butter flows +away and is filtered and solidified (see <a href="#page158">page 158</a>). All +<a name="page137" id="page137"></a> +<a name="page138" id="page138"></a> +that it is necessary to do to obtain cocoa from the press +cake is to powder it. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image81" id="image81"></a> +<a href="images/image081.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image081_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH CACAO PRESS-POT AND RAM-PLATE." +title="SECTION THROUGH CACAO PRESS-POT AND RAM-PLATE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH CACAO PRESS-POT AND RAM-PLATE. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>j</i>) <i>Breaking Down the Press Cake to Cocoa Powder.</i></h4> + +<p> +The slabs of press-cake are so hard and tough that +if one were banged on a man's head it would probably +stun him. They are broken down in a crushing mill, +the inside of which is as full of terrible teeth as a giant's +mouth, until the fragments are small enough to grind +on steel rollers. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>k</i>) <i>Sieving.</i></h4> + +<p> +As fineness is a very important quality of cocoa, the +powder so obtained is very carefully sieved. This is +effected by shaking the powder into an inclined rotating +drum which is covered with silk gauze. In the +cocoa which passes through this fine silk sieve, the +average length of the individual particles is about +0.001 inch, whilst in first-class productions the size of +the larger particles in the cocoa does not average more +than 0.002 inch. Indeed, the cocoa powder is so fine +that in spite of all precautions a certain amount always +floats about in the air of sieving rooms, and covers +everything with a brown film. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>l</i>) <i>Packing.</i></h4> + +<p> +The cocoa powder is taken to the packing rooms. +Here the tedious weighing by hand has been replaced +by ingenious machines, which deliver with remarkable +accuracy a definite weight of cocoa into the paper bag +which lines the tin. The tins are then labelled and +packed in cases ready for the grocer. +</p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page139" id="page139"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter6" id="chapter6">CHAPTER VI</a></h2> + +<h3>THE MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +Since the great improvements of the steam engine, it is +astonishing to what a variety of manufactures this useful +machine has been applied: yet it does not a little excite +our surprise that one is used for the trifling object of grinding +chocolate. +</div> + +<div class="blkquot"> +It is, however, a fact, or at least, we are credibly informed, +that Mr. Fry, of Bristol, has in his new manufactory one +of these engines for the sole purpose of manufacturing +chocolate and cocoa. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>Berrow's Worcester Journal,</i> +June 7th, 1798. +</div> + + +<p> +What I am about to write under this heading +will only be of a general character. Those +who require a more detailed exposition are +referred to the standard works given at the end of the +chapter. In these, full and accurate information will be +found. The information published in modern Encyclopædias, +etc., concerning the manufacture of chocolate +is not always as reliable as one might expect. Thus +it states in Jack's excellent <i>Reference Book</i> (1914) that +"Chocolate is made by the addition of water and +sugar." The use of water in the manufacture of chocolate +is contrary to all usual practice, so much so that +great interest was aroused in the trade some years ago +by the statement that water was being used by a firm +in Germany. +<a name="page140" id="page140"></a> +</p> + + + +<h3>SPECIMEN OUTLINE RECIPE.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="2">Ingredients required for <i>plain eating-chocolate</i>.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao nib or mass</td><td align="right">33 parts.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao butter</td><td align="right">13 parts.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Sugar</td><td align="right">53¾ parts.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Flavouring</td><td align="right" class="bb">¼ parts.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right">100 parts.</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +Since eating-chocolate is produced by mixing sugar +and cacao nib, with or without flavouring materials, +and reducing to a fine homogeneous mass, the principles +underlying its manufacture are obviously simple, +yet when we come to consider the production of a +modern high-class chocolate we find the processes involved +are somewhat elaborate. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>a</i>) <i>Preparing the Nib or "Mass."</i></h4> + +<p> +The nib is obtained in exactly the same way as in +the manufacture of cocoa, the beans being cleaned, +roasted and shelled. The roasting, however, is generally +somewhat lighter for chocolate than for cocoa. The +nibs produced may be used as they are, or they may be +first ground to "mass" by means of mill-stones as +described above. +</p> + + +<h4>(<i>b</i>) <i>Mixing in the Sugar.</i></h4> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image82" id="image82"></a> +<a href="images/image082.jpg"> +<img src="images/image082_thumb.jpg" +alt="CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Lake. Orr & Coy. Ltd." +title="CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Lake. Orr & Coy. Ltd." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Lake. Orr & Coy. Ltd. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image83" id="image83"></a> +<a href="images/image083.jpg"> +<img src="images/image083_thumb.jpg" +alt="PLAN OF CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR." +title="PLAN OF CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +PLAN OF CHOCOLATE MELANGEUR. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Some makers use clear crystalline granulated sugar, +others disintegrate loaf sugar to a beautiful snow-white +flour. The nib, coarse or finely ground, is mixed +with the sugar in a kind of edge-runner or grinding-mixer, +called a <i>mélangeur</i>. As is seen in the photo, the +<i>mélangeur</i> consists of two heavy mill-stones which are +supported on a granite floor. This floor revolves and +causes the stationary mill-stones to rotate on their +axes, so that although they run rapidly, like a man on +a "joy wheel," they make no headway. The material +is prevented from accumulating at the sides by curved +<a name="page141" id="page141"></a> +<a name="page142" id="page142"></a> +scrapers, which gracefully deflect the stream of material +to the part of the revolving floor which runs under the +mill-stones. Thus the sugar and nib are mixed and +crushed. As the mixture usually becomes like dough +in consistency, it can be neatly removed from the +<i>mélangeur</i> with a shovel. The operator rests a shovel +lightly on the revolving floor, and the material mounts +into a heap upon it. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image84" id="image84"></a> +<a href="images/image084.jpg"> +<img src="images/image084_thumb.jpg" +alt="CHOCOLATE REFINING MACHINE. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden." +title="CHOCOLATE REFINING MACHINE. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CHOCOLATE REFINING MACHINE.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>c</i>) <i>Grinding the Mixture.</i></h4> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image85" id="image85"></a> +<a href="images/image085.jpg"> +<img src="images/image085_thumb.jpg" +alt="GRINDING CACAO NIB AND SUGAR. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville)." +title="GRINDING CACAO NIB AND SUGAR. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +GRINDING CACAO NIB AND SUGAR.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville). +</p> +</div> + + +<p> +The mixture is now passed through a mill, which +has been described as looking like a multiple mangle. +The object of this is to break down the sugar and cacao +to smaller particles. The rolls may be made either of +granite (more strictly speaking, of quartz diorite) or +<a name="page143" id="page143"></a> +<a name="page144" id="page144"></a> +of polished chilled cast iron. Chilled cast iron rolls +have the advantage that they can be kept cool by having +water flowing through them. A skilled operator is +required to set the rolls in order that they may give a +large and satisfactory output. The cylinders in contact +run at different speeds, and, as will be seen in the +diagram, the chocolate always clings to the roll which +is revolving with the greater velocity, and is delivered +from the rolls either as a curtain of chocolate or as a +spray of chocolate powder. It is very striking to see the +soft chocolate-coloured dough become, after merely +passing between the rolls, a dry powder—the explanation +is that the sugar having been more finely crushed +now requires a greater quantity of cacao butter to lubricate +it before the mixture can again become plastic. +The chocolate in its various stages of manufacture, +should be kept warm or it will solidify and much time +and heat (and possibly temper) will be absorbed in +remelting it; for this and other reasons most chocolate +factories have a number of hot rooms, in which the +chocolate is stored whilst waiting to pass on to the +next operation. The dry powder coming from the rolls +is either taken to a hot room, or at once mixed in a +warm <i>mélangeur</i>, where curiously enough the whole +becomes once again of the consistency of dough. The +grinding between the rolls and the mixing in the +<i>mélangeur</i> are repeated any number of times until the +chocolate is of the desired fineness. Whilst there are a +few people who like the clean, hard feel of sugar crystals +between the teeth, the present-day taste is all for +very smooth and highly refined chocolate; hence the +grinding operation is one of the most important in the +factory, and is checked at the works at Bournville by +measuring with a microscope the size of the particles. +The cost of fine grinding is considerable, for whilst +the first breaking down of the cacao nibs and sugar +crystals is comparatively easy, it is found that as the +particles of chocolate get finer the cost of further reduction +increases by leaps and bounds. The chocolate +<a name="page145" id="page145"></a> +may now proceed direct to the moulding rooms or it +may first be conched. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image86" id="image86"></a> +<a href="images/image086.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image086_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH CHOCOLATE GRINDING ROLLS." +title="SECTION THROUGH CHOCOLATE GRINDING ROLLS." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH CHOCOLATE GRINDING ROLLS. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>d</i>) <i>Conching.</i></h4> + + +<p> +We now come to an extraordinary process which is +said to have been originally introduced to satisfy a +fastidious taste that demanded a chocolate which +readily melted in the mouth and yet had not the cloying +effect which is produced by excess of cacao butter. +In this process the chocolate is put in a vessel shaped +something like a shell (hence called a <i>conche</i>), and a +heavy roller is pushed to and fro in the chocolate. +Although the conche is considered to have revolutionized +the chocolate industry, it will remain to the uninitiated +a curious sight to see a room full of machines +engaged in pummelling chocolate day and night. +There is no general agreement as to exactly how the +conche produces its effects—from the scientific point +<a name="page146" id="page146"></a> +of view the changes are complex and elusive, and too +technical to explain here—but it is well known that if +this process is continued for periods varying according +to the result desired from a few hours to a week, characteristic +changes occur which make the chocolate a +more mellow and finished confection, having more or +less the velvet feel of <i>chocolat fondant</i>. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image87" id="image87"></a> +<a href="images/image087.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image087_thumb.jpg" +alt=""CONCHE" MACHINES. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden." +title=""CONCHE" MACHINES. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +"CONCHE" MACHINES.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. J. Baker & Sons, Willesden. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image88" id="image88"></a> +<a href="images/image088.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image088_thumb.jpg" +alt="SECTION THROUGH "CONCHE" MACHINE." +title="SECTION THROUGH "CONCHE" MACHINE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +SECTION THROUGH "CONCHE" MACHINE. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>e</i>) <i>Flavouring.</i></h4> + +<p> +Art is shown not only in the choice of the cacao beans +but also in the selection of spices and essences, for, +whilst the fundamental flavour of a chocolate is determined +by the blend of beans and the method of manufacture, +the piquancy and special character are often +obtained by the addition of minute quantities of +flavourings. The point in the manufacture at which the +flavour is added is as late as possible so as to avoid the +possible loss of aroma in handling. The flavours used +include cardamom, cassia, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, +lemon, mace, and last but most popular of all, the +vanilla pod or vanillin. Some makers use the choice +spices themselves, others prefer their essential oils. +Many other nutty, fragrant and aromatic substances +have been used; of these we may mention almonds, +coffee, musk, ambergris, gum benzoin and balsam of +Peru. The English like delicately flavoured confections, +whilst the Spanish follow the old custom of +heavily spicing the chocolate. In ancient recipes we +read of the use of white and red peppers, and the +addition of hot spices was defended and even recommended +on purely philosophical grounds. It was given, +in the strange jargon of the Peripatetics, as a dictum +that chocolate is by nature cold and dry and therefore +ought to be mixed with things which are hot. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image89" id="image89"></a> +<a href="images/image089.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image089_thumb.jpg" +alt="MACHINES FOR MIXING OR "CONCHING" CHOCOLATE." +title="MACHINES FOR MIXING OR "CONCHING" CHOCOLATE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +MACHINES FOR MIXING OR "CONCHING" CHOCOLATE. +</p> +</div> + + +<h4>(<i>f</i>) <i>Moulding.</i></h4> + +<p> +Small quantities of cacao butter will have been added +to the chocolate at various stages, and hence the finished +product is quite plastic. It is now brought from the +<a name="page147" id="page147"></a> +<a name="page148" id="page148"></a> +hot room (or the <i>mélangeur</i> or the conche) to the moulding +rooms. Before moulding, the chocolate is passed +through a machine, known as a compressor, which +removes air-bubbles. This is a necessary process, as +people would not care to purchase chocolate full of +holes. As in the previous operations, every effort has +been made to produce a chocolate of smooth texture +and fine flavour, so in the moulding rooms skill is +exercised in converting the plastic mass into hard bars +and cakes, which snap when broken and which have a +pleasant appearance. Well-moulded chocolate has a +good gloss, a rich colour and a correct shape. +<a name="page149" id="page149"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image90" id="image90"></a> +<a href="images/image090.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image090_thumb.jpg" +alt="CHOCOLATE SHAKING TABLE." +title="CHOCOLATE SHAKING TABLE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CHOCOLATE SHAKING TABLE. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The most important factor in obtaining a good +appearance is the temperature, and chocolate is frequently +passed through a machine (called a tempering +machine) merely to give it the desired temperature. +A suitable temperature for moulding, according to +Zipperer, varies from 28° C. on a hot summer's day to +32° C. on a winter's day. As the melting point of cacao +butter is about 32° C, it will be realized that the butter +is super-cooled and is ready to crystallize on the slightest +provocation. Each mould has to contain the same quantity +of chocolate. Weighing by hand has been abandoned +in favour of a machine which automatically +deposits a definite weight, such as a quarter or half a +pound, of the chocolate paste on each mould. The +chocolate stands up like a lump of dough and has to be +persuaded to lie down and fill the mould. This can be +most effectively accomplished by banging the mould +up and down on a table. In the factory the method +used is to place the moulds on rocking tables which +rise gradually and fall with a bump. The diagram will +make clear how these vibrating tables are worked by +<a name="page150" id="page150"></a> +means of ratchet wheels. Rocking tables are made which +are silent in action, but the moulds jerkily dancing +about on the table make a very lively clatter, such a +noise as might be produced by a regiment of mad +cavalry crossing a courtyard. During the shaking-up +the chocolate fills every crevice of the mould, and any +bubbles, which if left in would spoil the appearance of +the chocolate, rise to the top. The chocolate then passes +on to an endless band which conducts the mould +through a chamber in which cold air is moving. As +the chocolate cools, it solidifies and contracts so that it +comes out of the mould clean and bright. In this way +are produced the familiar sticks and cakes of chocolate. +A similar method is used in producing "Croquettes" +and the small tablets known as "Neapolitans." Other +forms require more elaborate moulds; thus the chocolate +eggs, which fill the confectioners' windows just +before Easter, are generally hollow, unless they are +very small, and are made in two halves by pressing +chocolate in egg-shaped moulds and then uniting the +two halves. Chocolate cremes, caramels, almonds and, +in fact, fancy "chocolates" generally, are produced +in quite a different manner. For these <i>chocolats de +fantaisie</i> a rather liquid chocolate is required known as +covering chocolate. +</p> + + +<h3>SPECIMEN OUTLINE RECIPE.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="2">Ingredients required for <i>chocolate for covering cremes</i>, etc.:</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao nib or mass</td><td align="right">30 parts</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao butter</td><td align="right">20 parts</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Sugar</td><td align="right">49¾ parts</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Flavouring</td><td align="right" class="bb">¼ parts</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right">100 parts</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +It is prepared in exactly the same way as ordinary +eating chocolate, save that more butter is added to +make it flow readily, so that in the melted condition it +<a name="page151" id="page151"></a> +has about the same consistency as cream. The operations +so far described are conducted by men, but the +covering of cremes and the packing of the finished +chocolates into boxes are performed by girls. Covering +is light work requiring a delicate touch, and if, as is +usual, it is done in bright airy rooms, is a pleasant +occupation. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image91" id="image91"></a> +<a href="images/image091.jpg"> +<img src="images/image091_thumb.jpg" +alt=" GIRLS COVERING, OR DIPPING, CREMES, ETC. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.)" +title=" GIRLS COVERING, OR DIPPING, CREMES, ETC. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> + GIRLS COVERING, OR DIPPING, CREMES, ETC. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Bournville.) +</p> +</div> + +<p> +The girl sits with a small bowl of warm liquid +chocolate in front of her, and on one side the "centres" +(cremes, caramels, ginger, nuts, etc.) ready for covering +with chocolate. The chocolate must be at just the +right temperature, which is 88 °F., or 31° C. She takes +one of the "centres," say a vanilla creme, on her fork +and dips it beneath the chocolate. When she draws it +out, the white creme is completely covered in brown +chocolate and, without touching it with her finger, she +deftly places it on a piece of smooth paper. A little +<a name="page152" id="page152"></a> +twirl of the fork or drawing a prong across the chocolate +will give the characteristic marking on the top of the +chocolate creme. The chocolate rapidly sets to a crisp +film enveloping the soft creme. There are in use in +many chocolate factories some very ingenious covering +machines, invented in 1903, which, as they clothe +cremes in a robe of chocolate, are known as "enrobers"; +it is doubtful, however, if the chocolates so +produced have even quite so good an appearance as +when the covering is done by hand. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image92" id="image92"></a> +<a href="images/image092.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image092_thumb.jpg" +alt="THE ENROBER. +A machine for covering cremes, etc., with chocolate. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Savy Jeanjean & Co., Paris." +title="THE ENROBER. +A machine for covering cremes, etc., with chocolate. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Savy Jeanjean & Co., Paris." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +THE ENROBER.<br /> +A machine for covering cremes, etc., with chocolate.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Savy Jeanjean & Co., Paris. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +It would be agreeable at this point to describe the +making of cremes (which, by the way, contrary to the +opinion of most writers, contain no cream or butter), +and other products of the confectioner's art, but it +would take us beyond the scope of the present book. +We will only remind our readers of the great variety +of comestibles and confections which are covered in +<a name="page153" id="page153"></a> +<a name="page154" id="page154"></a> +chocolate—pistachio nut, roasted almonds, pralines, +biscuits, walnuts, nougat, montelimar, fruits, fruit +cremes, jellies, Turkish delight, marshmallows, caramels, +pine-apple, noisette, and other delicacies. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image93" id="image93"></a> +<a href="images/image093.jpg"> +<img src="images/image093_thumb.jpg" +alt="A CONFECTIONERY ROOM AT MESSRS. CADBURY'S WORKS AT BOURNVILLE. +Cutting almond paste by hand moulds." +title="A CONFECTIONERY ROOM AT MESSRS. CADBURY'S WORKS AT BOURNVILLE. +Cutting almond paste by hand moulds." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +A CONFECTIONERY ROOM AT MESSRS. CADBURY'S WORKS AT BOURNVILLE.<br /> +Cutting almond paste by hand moulds. +</p> +</div> + + + +<h3><i>Milk Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<p> +We owe the introduction of this excellent food and +confection to the researches of M.D. Peter of Vevey, +in Switzerland, who produced milk chocolate as early +as 1876. Many of our older readers will remember +their delight when in the eighteen nineties they first +tasted Peter's milk chocolate. Later the then little firm +of Cailler, realising the importance of having the +factory on the very spot where rich milk was produced +in abundance, established a works near Gruyères. This +grew rapidly and soon became the largest factory in +Switzerland. The sound principle of having your +factory in the heart of a milk producing area was adopted +by Cadbury's, who built milk condensing factories +at the ancient village of Frampton-on-Severn, in +Gloucestershire, and at Knighton, near Newport, Salop. +Before the war these two factories together condensed + +from two to three million gallons of milk a year. Whilst +the amount of milk used in England for making milk +chocolate appears very great when expressed in gallons, +it is seen to be very small (being only about one-half +of one per cent.) when expressed as a fraction of the +total milk production. Milk chocolate is not made from +milk produced in the winter, when milk is scarce, but +from milk produced in the spring and summer when +there is milk in excess of the usual household requirements, +and when it is rich and creamy. The importance +of not interfering with the normal milk supply to +local customers is appreciated by the chocolate makers, +who take steps to prevent this. It will interest public +analysts and others to know that Cadbury's have had no +difficulty in making it a stipulation in their contracts +with the vendors that the milk supplied to them shall +contain at least 3.5 per cent. of butter fat, a 17 per +<a name="page155" id="page155"></a> +cent. increase on the minimum fixed by the Government. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image94" id="image94"></a> +<a href="images/image094.jpg"> +<img src="images/image094_thumb.jpg" +alt="FACTORY AT FRAMPTON, GLOUCESTERSHIRE, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.)." +title="FACTORY AT FRAMPTON, GLOUCESTERSHIRE, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.)." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +FACTORY AT FRAMPTON, GLOUCESTERSHIRE, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.). +</p> +</div> + + +<h3>SPECIMEN OUTLINE RECIPE.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="2">Ingredients required for <i>milk chocolate</i>:</td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao nib or mass (from 10 to 20 per cent.), say</td><td align="right">10</td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao Butter</td><td align="right">20</td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Sugar</td><td align="right">44¾</td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Milk solids (from 15 to 25 per cent.), say</td> +<td align="right">25</td><td align="right">= (200 parts of milk.)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Flavouring</td><td align="right" class="bb">¼</td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right">100</td><td></td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +Milk chocolate consists of an intimate mixture of cacao +nib, sugar and milk, condensed by evaporation. The +manner in which the milk is mixed with the cacao nib +is a matter of taste, and the art of combining milk with +chocolate, so as to retain the full flavour of each, has +<a name="page156" id="page156"></a> +engaged the attention of many experts. At present there +is no general method of manufacture—each maker +has his own secret processes, which generally include +the use of grinding mills, <i>mélangeurs</i>, conches, moulding +machines, etc., as with plain chocolate. We cannot +do better than refer those who wish to know more of +this, or other branch of the chocolate industry, to the +following English, French and German standard works +on Chocolate Manufacture: +</p> + +<ul> +<li><i>Cocoa and Chocolate, Their Chemistry and Manufacture</i>, by R. +Whymper (Churchill).</li> +<li><i>Fabrication du Chocolat</i>, by Fritsch (Scientifique et Industrielle).</li> +<li><i>The Manufacture of Chocolate</i>, by Dr. Paul Zipperer (Spon).</li> +</ul> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page157" id="page157"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter7" id="chapter7">CHAPTER VII</a></h2> + +<h3>BY-PRODUCTS OF THE COCOA AND +CHOCOLATE INDUSTRY</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p><i>Of Cacao Butter</i>—</p> + +<p> +It is the best and most natural <i>Pomatum</i> for Ladies to +<i>clear</i> and <i>plump</i> the Skin when it is <i>dry, rough</i>, or <i>shrivel'd</i>, +without making it appear either <i>fat</i> or <i>shining</i>. The <i>Spanish +Women</i> at <i>Mexico</i> use it very much, and it is highly esteem'd +by them.</p> +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>The Natural History of Chocolate</i>, +R. Brookes, 1730. +</div> + + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p><i>Of Cacao Shell.</i>—</p> + +<p> +In Russia and Belgium many families take Caravello at +breakfast. This is nothing but cocoa husk, washed and +then boiled in milk.</p> +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>Chocolate and Confectionery Manufacture</i>, +A. Jacoutot. +</div> + +<p> </p> + +<h3><i>Cacao Butter.</i></h3> + +<p> +In that very able compilation, <i>Allen's Organic +Analysis</i>, Mr. Leonard Archbutt states (Vol. II, +p. 176) that cacao butter "is obtained in large +quantities as a by-product in the manufacture of +chocolate." This is repeated in the excellent book on +<i>Oils</i>, by C.A. Mitchell (Common Commodities of +Commerce series). These statements are, of course, +incorrect. We have seen that cacao butter is obtained +as a by-product in the manufacture of cocoa, and is +<i>consumed</i> in large quantities in the manufacture of +chocolate. When, during the war, the use of sugar for +chocolate-making was restricted and little chocolate +was produced, the cacao butter formerly used in this +industry was freed for other purposes. Thus there was +plenty of cacao butter available at a time when other +fats were scarce. Cacao butter has a pleasant, bland +<a name="page158" id="page158"></a> +taste resembling cocoa. The cocoa flavour is very persistent, +as many experimenters found to their regret +in their efforts to produce a tasteless cacao butter +which could be used as margarine or for general purposes +in cooking. The scarcity of edible fats during +the war forced the confectioners to try cacao butter, +which in normal times is too expensive for them to use, +and as a result a very large amount was employed in +making biscuits and confectionery. +</p> + +<p> +Cacao butter runs hot from the presses as an amber-coloured +oil, and after nitration, sets to a pale golden +yellow wax-like fat. The butter, which the pharmacist +sells, is sometimes white and odourless, having been +bleached and deodorized. The butter as produced is +always pale yellow in colour, with a semi-crystalline +or granular fracture and an agreeable taste and odour +resembling cocoa or chocolate. +</p> + +<p> +Cacao butter has such remarkable keeping properties +(which would appear to depend on the aromatic substances +which it contains), that a myth has arisen that +it will keep for ever. The fable finds many believers +even in scientific circles; thus W.H. Johnson, in the +<i>Imperial Institute Handbook</i> on <i>Cocoa</i>, states that: +"When pure, it has the peculiar property of not becoming +rancid, however long it may be kept." Whilst +this overstates the case, we find that under suitable +conditions cacao butter will remain fresh and good for +several years. Cacao butter has rather a low melting +point (90° F.), so that whilst it is a hard, almost brittle, +solid at ordinary temperatures, it melts readily when +in contact with the human body (blood heat 98° F). +This property, together with its remarkable stability, +makes it useful for ointments, pomades, suppositories, +pessaries and other pharmaceutical preparations; it +also explains why actors have found it convenient for +the removal of grease paint. The recognition of the +value of cacao butter for cosmetic purposes dates from +very early days; thus in Colmenero de Ledesma's +<i>Curious Treatise on the Nature and Quality of Chocolate</i> +<a name="page159" id="page159"></a> +(printed at the Green Dragon, 1685), we read: "That +they draw from the cacao a great quantity of butter, +which they use to make their faces shine, which I have +seen practised in the Indies by the Spanish women +born there." This, evidently, was one way of shining in +society. +</p> + +<p> +Cacao butter has been put to many other uses, thus +it has been employed in the preparation of perfumes, +but the great bulk of the cacao butter produced is used +up by the chocolate maker. For making chocolate it is +ideal, and the demand for it for this purpose is so great +that substitutes have been found and offered for sale. +Until recently these fats, coconut stearine and others, +could be ignored by the reputable chocolate makers as +the confection produced by their use was inferior to +true chocolate both in taste and in keeping properties. +In recent times the oils and fats of tropical nuts and +fruits have been thoroughly investigated in the eager +search for new fats, and new substitutes, such as illipé +butter, have been introduced, the properties of which +closely resemble those of cacao butter. +</p> + +<p> +For the information of chemists we may state that the +analytical figures for genuine cacao butter, as obtained +in the cocoa factory, are as follow: +</p> + + +<h3>ANALYTICAL FIGURES FOR CACAO BUTTER.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Specific Gravity (at 99° C. to water at 15.5° C.)</td><td align="center">.858 to .865</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Melting Point</td><td align="center">32°C. to 34°C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Titer (fatty acids)</td><td align="center">49°C. to 50°C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Iodine Absorbed</td><td align="center">34% to 38%</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Refraction (Butyro-Refractometer) at 40°C.</td><td align="center">45.6° to 46.5°</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Saponification Value</td><td align="center">192 to 198</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Valenta</td><td align="center">94°C. to 96°C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Reichert Meissel Value</td><td align="center">1.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Polenske Value</td><td align="center">0.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Kirschner "</td><td align="center">0.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Shrewsbury and Knapp Value</td><td align="center">14 to 15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Unsaponifiable matter</td><td align="center">0.3% to 0.8%</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Mineral matter</td><td align="center">0.02% to 0.05%</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Acidity (as oleic acid)</td><td align="center">0.6% to 2.0%</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name="page160" id="page160"></a> +</div> + +<p> +Although the trade in cacao butter is considerable, +there were, before the war, only two countries that +could really be considered as exporters of cacao butter; +in other words, there were only two countries, namely, +Holland and Germany, pressing out more cacao butter +in the production of cocoa than they absorbed in +making chocolate: +</p> + + +<h3>EXPORT OF CACAO BUTTER.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="left" colspan="3">Tons (of 1000 kilogrammes)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="left">1911</td><td align="left">1912</td><td align="left">1913</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Holland</td><td align="left">4,657</td> +<td align="left">5,472</td><td align="left">7,160</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Germany</td><td align="left">3,611</td><td align="left">3,581</td> +<td align="left">1,960</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="left">8,268</td><td align="left">9,053</td><td align="left">9,120</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +During the war America appeared for the first time +in her history as an exporter of cacao butter. Hitherto +she was one of the principal importers, as will be seen +in the following table: +</p> + + +<h3>IMPORTS OF CACAO BUTTER.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="left" colspan="2">Tons (of 1000 kilogrammes)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"></td><td align="right">1912</td><td align="right">1913</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">United States</td><td align="right">1,842</td><td align="right">1,634</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Switzerland</td><td align="right">1,821</td><td align="right">1,634</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Belgium</td><td align="right">1,127</td><td align="right">1,197</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Austria-Hungary</td><td align="right">1,062</td><td align="right">1,190</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Russia</td><td align="right">955</td><td align="right">1,197</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">England</td><td align="right">495</td><td align="right">934</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<p> +The next table shows the imports (expressed in +English tons) into the United Kingdom in more recent +years: +</p> + + +<h3>IMPORTS OF CACAO BUTTER.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="right">Year</td><td align="right">1912</td><td align="right">1913</td> +<td align="right">1914</td><td align="right">1915</td><td align="right">1916</td> +<td align="right">1917</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="right">Tons</td><td align="right">477</td><td align="right">912</td> +<td align="right">1512</td><td align="right">599</td><td align="right">962</td> +<td align="right">675</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The wholesale price of cacao butter has varied in +the last six years from 1/3 per pound to 2/11 per pound, +and was fixed in 1918 by the Food Controller at 1/6 +<a name="page161" id="page161"></a> +per pound (retail price 2/- per pound). The control +was removed in 1919, and immediately the wholesale +price rose to 2/8 per pound. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Cacao Shell.</i></h3> + +<p> +Although I have described cacao butter as a by-product, +the only true by-product of the combined +cocoa and chocolate industry is cacao shell. I explained +in the previous chapter how it is separated +from the roasted bean. As they come from the husking +or winnowing machine, the larger fragments of shell +resemble the shell of monkey-nuts (ground nuts or pea +nuts), except that the cacao shells are thinner, more +brittle and of a richer brown colour. The shell has a +pleasant odour in which a little true cocoa aroma can +be detected. The small pieces of shell look like bran, +and, if the shell be powdered, the product is wonderfully +like cocoa in appearance, though not in taste or +smell. As the raw cacao bean contains on the average +about twelve and a half per cent. of shell, it is evident +that the world production must be considerable (about +36,000 tons a year), and since it is not legitimately +employed in cocoa, the brains of inventors have been +busy trying to find a use for it. In some industries the +by-product has proved on investigation to be of greater +value than the principal product—a good instance of +this is glycerine as a by-product in soap manufacture—but +no use for the husk or shell of cacao, which gives it +any considerable commercial value, has yet been discovered. +There are signs, however, that its possible +uses are being considered and appreciated. +</p> + +<p> +For years small quantities of cacao shell, under the +name of "miserables," have been used in Ireland and +other countries for producing a dilute infusion for +drinking. Although this "cocoa tea" is not unpleasant, +and has mild stimulating properties, it has never been +popular, and even during the war, when it was widely +advertised and sold in England under fancy names at +<a name="page162" id="page162"></a> +fancy prices, it never had a large or enthusiastic body +of consumers. +</p> + +<p> +In normal times the cocoa manufacturer has no +difficulty in disposing of his shell to cattle-food makers +and others, but during 1915 when the train service +was so defective, and transport by any other means +almost impossible, the manufacturers of cocoa and +chocolate were unable to get the shell away from their +factories, and had large accumulations of it filling up +valuable store space. In these circumstances they +attempted to find a use near at hand. It was tried with +moderate success as a fuel and a considerable quantity +was burned in a special type of gas-producer intended +for wood. +</p> + +<p> +Cacao shell has a high nitrogenous content, and if +burned yields about 67 lbs. of potassium carbonate +per ton. In the Annual Report of the Experimental +Farms in Canada, (1898, p. 151 and 1899, p. 851,) +accounts are given of the use of cacao shell as a manure. +The results given are encouraging, and experiments +were made at Bournville. At first these were only +moderately successful, because the shell is extremely +stable and decomposes in the ground very slowly indeed. +Then the head gardener tried hastening the +decomposition by placing the shell in a heap, soaking +with water and turning several times before use. In +this way the shell was converted into a decomposing +mass before being applied to the ground, and gave +excellent results both as a manure and as a lightener +of heavy soils. +</p> + +<p> +On the Continent the small amount of cacao butter +which the shell contains is extracted from it by volatile +solvents. The "shell butter" so obtained is very inferior +to ordinary cacao butter, and as usually put on +the market, has an unpleasant taste, and an odour which +reminds one faintly of an old tobacco-pipe. In this +unrefined condition it is obviously unsuitable for edible +purposes. +</p> + +<p> +Shell contains about one per cent. of <i>theobromine</i> +<a name="page163" id="page163"></a> +(dimethylxanthine). This is a very valuable chemical +substance (see remarks in chapter on <a href="#chapter8">Food Value of +Cocoa and Chocolate</a>), and the extraction of theobromine +from shell is already practised on a large +scale, and promises to be a profitable industry. Ordinary +commercial samples of shell contain from 1.2 to +1.4 per cent. of theobromine. Those interested should +study the very ingenious process of Messrs. Grousseau +and Vicongne (Patent No. 120,178). Many other +uses of cacao shell have been made and suggested; +thus it has been used for the production of a good coffee +substitute, and also, during the shortage of sawdust, +as a packing material, but its most important use at +the present time is as cattle food, and its most important +abuse as an adulterant of cocoa. +</p> + +<p> +The value of cacao shell as cattle food has been known +for a long time, and is indicated in the following analysis +by Smetham (in the Journal of the Lancashire Agricultural +Society, 1914). +</p> + + +<h3>ANALYSIS OF CACAO SHELL.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Water</td><td align="right">9.30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Fat</td><td align="right">3.83</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Mineral Matter</td><td align="right">8.20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Albuminoids</td><td align="right">18.81</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Fibre</td><td align="right">13.85</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Digestible Carbohydrates</td><td align="right" class="bb">46.01</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right">100.00</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +From these figures Smetham calculates the food units +as 102, so that it is evident that cacao shell occupies a +good position when compared with other fodders: +</p> + + +<h3>FOOD UNITS.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Linseed cake</td><td align="right">133</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Oatmeal</td><td align="right">117</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Bran</td><td align="right">109</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">English wheat</td><td align="right">106</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Cacao shells</i></td><td align="right">102</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Maize (new crop)</td><td align="right">99</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Meadow hay</td><td align="right">68</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Rice husks</td><td align="right">43</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Wheat straw</td><td align="right">41</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Mangels</td><td align="right">12</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +<a name="page164" id="page164"></a> +These analytical results have been supported by +practical feeding experiments in America and Germany +(see full account in Zipperer's book, <i>The Manufacture +of Chocolate</i>). Prof. Faelli, in Turin, obtained, +by giving cacao shell to cows, an increase in both the +quantity and quality of the milk. More recent experience +seems to indicate that it is unwise to put a very +high percentage of cacao shell in a cattle food; in small +quantities in compound feeding cakes, etc., as an +appetiser it has been used for years with good results. +(Further particulars will be found in <i>Cacao Shells as +Fodder</i>, by A.W. Knapp, <i>Tropical Life</i>, 1916, p. 154, +and in <i>The Separation and Uses of Cacao Shell</i>, Society +of Chemical Industry's Journal, 1918, 240). The price +of shell has shown great variation. The following figures +are for the grade of shell which is almost entirely free +from cocoa: +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO SHELL.</h3> + + +<h4>AVERAGE PRICE PER TON.</h4> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Year</td><td align="right">1912</td><td align="right">1913</td> +<td align="right">1914</td><td align="right">1915</td><td align="right">1916</td> +<td align="right">1917</td><td align="right">1918</td><td align="right">1919</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Price</td><td align="right">65/-</td><td align="right">70/-</td> +<td align="right">70/-</td><td align="right">70/-</td><td align="right">90/-</td> +<td align="right">128/-</td><td align="right">284/-</td><td align="right">161/-</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<h4>PRICE PER FOOD UNIT.</h4> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right" colspan="2"><i>July</i>, 1915.</td><td></td> +<td align="right" colspan="2"><i>Jan.</i>, 1919.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"></td><td align="right"><i>s.</i></td><td align="right"><i>d.</i></td> +<td> </td><td align="right"><i>s.</i></td><td align="right"><i>d.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">English Oats</td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">1-1/2</td> +<td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cotton Seed Cake</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="right">5</td> +<td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">11</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Linseed Cake</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">7</td> +<td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Brewers Grains (dried)</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">6-1/2</td> +<td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">8-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Decorticated Cotton Cake</td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">6</td> +<td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">3-1/2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao Shell</td><td align="right"></td><td align="right">8-1/4</td> +<td></td><td align="right">1</td><td align="right">4-1/2</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The above table speaks for itself; the figures are from +the Journal of the Board of Agriculture; I have added +cacao shell for comparison. +</p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page165" id="page165"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter8" id="chapter8">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2> + +<h3>THE COMPOSITION AND FOOD VALUE OF +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +Before the Spaniards made themselves Masters of +Mexico, no other drink was esteem'd but that of cocoa; +none caring for wine, notwithstanding the soil produces +vines everywhere in great abundance of itself. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +John Ogilvy's <i>America</i>, 1671. +</div> + + +<p> +The early writers on chocolate generally became +lyrical when they wrote of its value as a +food. Thus in the <i>Natural History of Chocolate</i>, +by R. Brookes (1730), we read that an ounce of chocolate +contains as much nourishment as a pound of beef, +that a woman and a child, and even a councillor, lived +on chocolate alone for a long period, and further: +"Before chocolate was known in Europe, good old +wine was called the milk of old men; but this title is +now applied with greater reason to chocolate, since its +use has become so common, that it has been perceived +that chocolate is, with respect to them, what milk is +to infants." +</p> + +<p> +A more temperate tone is shown in the following, +from <i>A Curious Treatise of the Nature and Quality of +Chocolate</i>, by Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma, a +Spaniard, Physician and Chyrurgion of the city of +Ecija, in Andaluzia (printed at the Green Dragon, +1685): +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +So great is the number of those persons, who at present +do drink of Chocolate, that not only in the West Indies, +whence this drink has its original and beginning, but also +in Spain, Italy, Flanders, &c., it is very much used, and +especially in the Court of the King of Spain; where the +great ladies drink it in a morning before they rise out of +their beds, and lately much used in England, as Diet and +<a name="page166" id="page166"></a> +Phisick with the Gentry. Yet there are several persons that +stand in doubt both of the hurt and of the benefit, which +proceeds from the use thereof; some saying, that it obstructs +and causes opilations, others and those the most +part, that it fattens, several assure us that it fortifies the +stomach: some again that it heats and inflames the body. +But very many steadfastly affirm, that tho' they shou'd +drink it at all hours, and that even in the Dog-days, they +find themselves very well after it. +</div> + +<p> +So much for the old valuations; let us now attempt +by modern methods to estimate the food value of cacao +and its preparations. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Food Value of Cacao Beans.</i></h3> + +<p> +In estimating the worth of a food, it is usual to compare +the fuel values. This peculiar method is adopted +because the most important requirement in nutrition +is that of giving energy for the work of the body, and +a food may be thought of as being burnt up (oxidised) +in the human machine in the production of heat and +energy. The various food constituents serve in varying +degrees as fuel to produce energy, and hence to judge +of the food value it is necessary to know the chemical +composition. Below we give the average composition +of cacao beans and the fuel value calculated from these +figures: +</p> + + +<h3>AVERAGE COMPOSITION AND FUEL VALUE OF FRESHLY ROASTED +CACAO BEANS (NIBS).</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right"><i>Composition.</i></td><td></td> +<td align="center"><i>Energy-giving power</i><br /><i>Calories per lb.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Butter</td><td align="right">54.0</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">2,282</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Protein (total nitrogen 2.3%)</td><td align="right">11.9</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">221</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Starch<br />Other Digestible Carbohydrates, etc.</td> +<td align="right">6.7<br />18.7</td><td align="center"><big><big>}</big></big> =</td> +<td align="center">472</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Stimulants <big><big>{</big></big></td><td align="left">Theobromine<br />Caffein</td> +<td align="right">1.0<br />0.4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Mineral Matter</td><td align="right">3.2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Crude Fibre</td><td align="right">2.6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Moisture</td><td align="right">1.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right">100.0</td><td></td><td align="center">2,975</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><a name="page167" id="page167"></a></p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image95" id="image95"></a> +<a href="images/image095.jpg"> +<img src="images/image095_thumb.jpg" +alt="COCOA AND CHOCOLATE DESPATCH DECK AT BOURNVILLE." +title="COCOA AND CHOCOLATE DESPATCH DECK AT BOURNVILLE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE DESPATCH DECK AT BOURNVILLE. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +It will be seen from the above analysis that the cacao +bean is rich in fats, carbohydrates and protein, and +that it contains small quantities of the two stimulants, +theobromine and caffein. In the whole range of animal +and vegetable foodstuffs there are only one or two +which exceed it in energy-giving power. If expressed +in quite another way, namely, as "food units," the +value of the cacao bean stands equally high, as is shown +by the following figures taken from Smetham's result +published in the Journal of the Royal Agricultural +Society, 1914: +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="2">"FOOD UNITS."</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Turnips</td><td align="right">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Carrots</td><td align="right">12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Potatoes</td><td align="right">26</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Rice</td><td align="right">102</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Corn Flour</td><td align="right">104</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Wheat</td><td align="right">106</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Peas</td><td align="right">113</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Oatmeal</td><td align="right">117</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Coconut</td><td align="right">159</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao Bean</td><td align="right">183</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +These figures indicate the high food value of the raw +material; we will now proceed to consider the various +products which are obtained from it. +<a name="page168" id="page168"></a> +</p> + + + +<h3><i>Food Value of Cocoa.</i></h3> + + +<h4>AVERAGE COMPOSITION AND FUEL VALUE OF UNTREATED COCOA.</h4> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right"><i>Composition.</i></td><td></td> +<td align="center"><i>Energy-giving power</i><br /><i>Calories per lb.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Butter</td><td align="right">28.0</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">1,183</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan="2">Protein</td><td align="right">18.3</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">340</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Starch<br />Other Digestible Carbohydrates, etc.</td> +<td align="right">10.2<br />28.4</td><td align="center"><big><big>}</big></big> =</td> +<td align="center">718</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Stimulants <big><big>{</big></big></td> +<td align="left">Theobromine<br />Caffein</td><td align="right">1.5<br />0.6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Mineral Matter</td><td align="right">5.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Crude Fibre</td><td align="right">4.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Moisture</td><td align="right">4.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right">100.0</td><td></td><td align="center">2,241</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +("Soluble" Cocoa, <i>i.e.</i>, cocoa which has been treated with alkaline +salts, is almost identical in composition, save that the mineral matter +is about 7.5 per cent.). +</p> + +<p> +As cocoa consists of the cacao bean with some of the +butter extracted—a process which increases the percentage +of the nitrogenous and carbohydrate constituents—it +will be evident that the food value of cocoa +powder is high, and that it is a concentrated foodstuff. +In this respect it differs from tea and coffee, which +have practically no food value; each of them, however, +have special qualities of their own. Some of the claims +made for these beverages are a little remarkable. The +Embassy of the United Provinces in their address to +the Emperor of China (Leyden, 1655), in mentioning +the good properties of tea, wrote: "More especially +it disintoxicates those that are fuddl'd, giving them +new forces, and enabling them to go to it again." The +Embassy do not state whether they speak from personal +experience, but their admiration for tea is undoubted. +Tea, coffee, and cocoa are amongst our blessings, each +has its devotees, each has its peculiar delight: tea +makes for cheerfulness, coffee makes for wit and wakefulness, +and cocoa relieves the fatigued, and gives a +comfortable feeling of satisfaction and stability. Of +<a name="page169" id="page169"></a> +these three drinks cocoa alone can be considered as a +food, and just as there are people whose digestion is +deranged by tea, and some who sleep not a wink after +drinking coffee, so there are some who find cocoa too +feeding, especially in the summer-time. These sufferers +from biliousness will think it curious that cocoa is +habitually drunk in many hot climates, thus, in Spanish-speaking +countries, it is the custom for the priest, after +saying mass, to take a cup of chocolate. The pure cocoa +powder is, as we saw above, a very rich foodstuff, but +it must always be remembered that in a pint of cocoa +only a small quantity, about half an ounce, is usually +taken. In this connection the following comparison +between tea, coffee and cocoa is not without interest. It is +taken from the <i>Farmer's Bulletin</i> 249, an official publication +of the United States Department of Agriculture: +</p> + + +<h3>COMPARISON OF ENERGY-GIVING POWER OF A PINT OF TEA, +COFFEE AND COCOA.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Kind of Beverage</td><td align="center">Water</td> +<td align="center">Protein</td><td align="center">Fat</td> +<td align="center">Carbohydrates</td><td align="center">Fuel value per lb.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="center">%</td><td align="center">%</td><td align="center">%</td> +<td align="center">%</td><td align="center">Calories</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Tea</i><br /> (0.5 oz. to 1 pt. water)</td> +<td align="center">99.5</td><td align="center">0.2</td><td align="center">0</td> +<td align="center">0.6</td><td align="center">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Coffee</i><br /> (1 oz. to 1 pt. water)</td> +<td align="center">98.9</td><td align="center">0.2</td><td align="center">0</td> +<td align="center">0.7</td><td align="center">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Cocoa</i><br /> (0.5 oz. to 1 pt. water)</td> +<td align="center">97.1</td><td align="center">0.6</td><td align="center">0.9</td> +<td align="center">1.1</td><td align="center">65</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +These figures place cocoa, as a food, head and shoulders +above tea and coffee. The figures are for the beverages +made without the addition of milk and sugar, both of +which are almost invariably present. A pint of cocoa +made with one-third milk, half an ounce of cocoa, and +one ounce of sugar would have a fuel value of 320 +calories, and is therefore equivalent in energy-giving +power to a quarter of a pound of beef or four eggs. +</p> + +<p> +Cocoa is stimulating, but its action is not so marked +<a name="page170" id="page170"></a> +as that of tea or coffee, and hence it is more suitable for +young children. Dr. Hutchison, an authority on dietetics, +writes: "Tea and coffee are also harmful to +the susceptible nervous system of the child, but cocoa, +made with plenty of milk, may be allowed, though it +should be regarded, like milk, as a food rather than a +beverage properly so called." +</p> + + +<h3><i>How to Make a Cup of Cocoa.</i></h3> + +<p> +<a name="image96" id="image96"></a> +<span class="rig"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image096_thumb.jpg" +alt="cup of cocoa" +title="cup of cocoa" /> +</span> + +Tea, coffee and cocoa are all so easy to make that it +is remarkable anyone should fail to prepare them perfectly. +Whilst in France everyone can prepare coffee +to perfection, and many +fail in making a cup of +tea, in England all are +adepts in the art of tea-making, +and many do not +distinguish themselves in +the preparation of coffee. +Cocoa in either country +is not always the delightful +beverage it should be. +The directions below, +if carefully followed, will +be found to give the character +of cocoa its full expression. The principal conditions +to observe are to avoid iron saucepans, to use +boiling water or milk, to froth the cocoa before serving, +and to serve steaming hot in thick cups. +</p> + +<p> +The amount of cocoa required for two large breakfast +cups, that is one pint, is as much as will go, when +piled up, in a dessert spoon. Take then a heaped +dessert-spoonful of pure cocoa and mix dry with one +and a half times its bulk of fine sugar. Set this on one +side whilst the boiling liquid is prepared. Mix one +breakfast cup of water with one breakfast cup of milk, +and raise to the boil in an enamelled saucepan. Whilst +this is proceeding, warm the jug which is to hold the +cocoa, and transfer the dry sugar-cocoa mixture to it. +<a name="page171" id="page171"></a> +Now pour in the boiling milk and water. Transfer back +to saucepan and <i>boil</i> for one minute. Whisk vigorously +for a quarter of a minute. Serve without delay. +</p> + + +<h3><i>Digestibility of Cocoa.</i></h3> + +<p>We have noted above the high percentage of nutrients +which cocoa contains, and the research conducted by +J. Forster<a name="VIII-1m" id="VIII-1m" href="#VIII-1"><small>[1]</small></a> +shows that these nutrients are easily assimilated. +Forster found that the fatty and mineral constituents +of cocoa are both <i>completely</i> digested, and the +nitrogenous constituents are digested in the same +proportion as in finest bread, and more completely +than in bread of average quality. One very striking +fact was revealed by his researches, namely, that the +consumption of cocoa increases the digestive power +for other foods which are taken at the same time, and +that this increase is particularly evident with milk. +Dr. R.O. Neumann<a name="VIII-2m" id="VIII-2m" href="#VIII-2"><small>[2]</small></a> +(who fed himself with cocoa +preparations for over twelve weeks), whilst not agreeing +with this conclusion, states that: "The consumption +of cocoa from the point of view of health +leaves nothing to be desired. The taking of large or +small quantities of cocoa, either rich or poor in fat, +with or without other food, gave rise to no digestive +troubles during the 86 days which formed the duration +of the experiments." He considers that cocoas +containing a high percentage of cacao butter are preferable +to those which contain low percentages, and that +a 30 per cent. butter content meets all requirements. +It is worthy of note that 28 to 30 per cent. is the quantity +of butter found in ordinary high-class cocoas. +</p> + +<p> +As experts are liable to disagree, and it is almost +possible to prove anything by a judicious selection +from their writings, it may be well to give an extract +from some modern text book as more nearly expressing +the standard opinion of the times. In <i>Second Stage +<a name="page172" id="page172"></a> +Hygiene</i>, by Mr. Ikin and Dr. Lyster, a text book +written for the Board of Education Syllabus, we read, +p. 96: "... in the better cocoas the greater part of +the fat is removed by heat and pressure. In this form +cocoa may be looked upon as almost an ideal food, as +it contains proteids, fats, and carbohydrates in roughly +the right proportions. Prepared with milk and sugar it +forms a highly nutritious and valuable stimulating +beverage." +</p> + +<h3><i>Stimulating Property of Cocoa.</i></h3> + +<p> +The mild stimulating property which cocoa possesses +is due to the presence of the two substances, theobromine +and caffein. The presence of theobromine is +peculiar to cocoa, but caffein is a stimulating principle +which also occurs in tea and coffee. Whilst in the +quantities in which they are present in cocoa (about +1.5 per cent. of theobromine and 0.6 per cent. of caffein) +they act only as agreeable stimulants, in the pure condition, +as white crystalline powders, they are powerful +curative agents. Caffein is well known as a specific for +nervous headaches, and as a heart stimulant and diuretic. +Theobromine is similar in action, but has the advantage +for certain cases, that it has much less effect on the +central nervous system, and for this reason it is a very +valuable medicine for sufferers from heart dropsy, and +as a tonic for senile heart. That its medicinal properties +are appreciated is shown by its price: during 1918 +the retail price was about 8 shillings an ounce, from +which we can calculate that every pound of cocoa +contained nearly two shillingsworth of theobromine. +</p> + + +<h3><i>"Soluble" Cocoa.</i></h3> + +<p> +Whilst Forster states that treated cocoa is the most +digestible, experts are not in agreement as to which +is the more valuable foodstuff, the pure untouched +cocoa, or that which is treated during its manufacture +<a name="page173" id="page173"></a> +with alkaline salts. The cocoa so treated is generally +described as "soluble," although its only claim to this +name is that the mineral salts in the cocoa are rendered +more soluble by the treatment. It is also sometimes +incorrectly described as containing alkali, but actually no +alkali is present in the cocoa either in a free state or as +carbonate; the potassium exists "in the form of phosphates +or combinations of organic acids, that is to say, +in the ideal form in which these bodies occur in foods +of animal and vegetable origin" (Fritsch, <i>Fabrication +du Chocolat</i>, p. 216). +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image97" id="image97"></a> +<a href="images/image097.jpg"> +<img src="images/image097_thumb.jpg" +alt="BOXING CHOCOLATES." +title="BOXING CHOCOLATES." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +BOXING CHOCOLATES. +</p> +</div> + + +<h3><i>Food Value of Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +I ate a little chocolate from my supply, well knowing the miraculous +sustaining powers of the simple little block (from <i>Mr. Isaacs</i>, +by F. Marion Crawford). +</div> + +<p> +Whilst the food value of cocoa powder is very high +<a name="page174" id="page174"></a> +the drink prepared from it can only be regarded as an +accessory food, because it is usual to take the powder +in small quantities—just as with beef-tea it is usual to +take only a small portion of an ox in a tea-cup—but +chocolate is often eaten in considerable quantities at a +time, and must therefore be regarded as an important +foodstuff, and not considered, as it frequently is considered, +simply as a luxury.</p> + +<p> +The eating of cacao mixed with sugar dates from +very early days, but it is only in recent times that it has +become the principal sweetmeat. What would a "sweetshop" +be to-day without chocolate, that summit of +the confectioner's art, when the rich brown of chocolate +is the predominant note in every confectioner's +window? What would the lovers in England do +without chocolates, which enable them to indulge +their delight in giving that which is sure to be well +received? +</p> + +<p> +As a luxury it is universally appreciated, and because +of this appreciation its value as a food is sometimes +overlooked. +</p> + +<p> +During the war chocolate was valued as a compact +foodstuff, which is easily preserved. Dr. Gastineau +Earle, lecturing for the Institute of Hygiene in 1915 +on "Food Factor in War," said: "Chocolate is a +most valuable concentrated food, especially when +other foods are not available; it is the chief constituent +of the emergency ration." Its importance as a concentrated +foodstuff was appreciated in the United +States, for every "comfort kit" made up for the +American soldiers fighting in the war contained a cake +of sweet chocolate. +</p> + +<p> +There are a number of records of people whose lives +have been preserved by means of chocolate. One of +the most recent was the case of Commander Stewart, +who was torpedoed in H.M.S. "Cornwallis" in the +Mediterranean in 1917. He happened to have in his +cabin one of the boxes of chocolate presented to the +Army and Navy in 1915 by the colonies of Trinidad, +<a name="page175" id="page175"></a> +Grenada, and St. Lucia, who gave the cacao and paid +English manufacturers to make it into chocolate. He +had been treasuring the box as a souvenir, but being +the only article of food available, he filled his pockets +with the chocolate, which sustained him through many +trying hours.<a name="VIII-3m" id="VIII-3m" href="#VIII-3"><small>[3]</small></a> +</p> + +<p> +We have already seen the high food value of the +cacao bean: what of the sugar which chocolate contains? +Sugar is consumed in large quantities in England, +the consumption per head amounting to 80-90 lbs. per +year. It is well known as a giver of heat and energy, +and Sir Ernest Shackleton reports that it proved a +great life preserver and sustainer in Arctic regions. +Our practical acquaintance with sugar commences at +birth—milk containing about 5 per cent. of milk +sugar—and when one considers the amazing activity +of young children one understands their continuous +demand for sugar. Dr. Hutchison, in his well-known +<i>Food and the Principles of Dietetics</i>, says: "The +craving for sweets which children show is, no doubt, the +natural expression of a physiological need, but they +should be taken with, and not between, meals. Chocolate +is one of the most wholesome and nutritious forms +of such sweets." +</p> + +<p> +Both the constituents of chocolate being nourishing, +it follows that chocolate itself has a high food +value. This is proved by the figures given below. +</p> + +<p> +As with cocoa, we have first to know the composition +before we can calculate the food value. The relative +proportions of nib, butter and sugar, vary considerably +in ordinary chocolate, so that it is difficult to give an +average composition: there are sticks of eating chocolate +which contain as little as 24 per cent. of cacao +butter, whilst chocolate used for covering contains +about 36 per cent. of butter. +</p> + +<p> +As modern high-class eating chocolate contains +<a name="page176" id="page176"></a> +about 31 per cent. of butter, we will take this for +purposes of calculation:</p> + + +<h3>AVERAGE COMPOSITION AND FUEL VALUE OF ENGLISH EATING CHOCOLATE.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right"><i>Composition.</i></td><td></td> +<td align="center"><i>Energy-giving power</i><br /><i>Calories per lb.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Butter</td><td align="right">31.4</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">1,327</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Protein (total nitrogen 78%)</td><td align="right">4.1</td> +<td align="center">=</td><td align="center">76</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Cacao Starch<br />Other Digestible Carbohydrates, etc.</td> +<td align="right">2.3<br />6.4</td><td align="center"><big><big>}</big></big> =</td> +<td align="center">162</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Stimulants <big><big>{</big></big></td><td align="left">Theobromine<br />Caffein</td> +<td align="right">0.3<br />0.1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Mineral Matter</td><td align="right">1.2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Crude Fibre</td><td align="right">0.9</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Moisture</td><td align="right">1.o</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" colspan="2">Sugar</td><td align="right">52.3</td><td align="center">=</td> +<td align="center">973</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td><td align="right">100.0</td><td></td><td align="center">2,538</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +In Snyder's <i>Human Foods</i> (1916) the official analyses +of 163 common foods are given. They include practically +everything that human beings eat, and only +three are greater than chocolate in energy-giving power. +</p> + +<p> +The result (2,538 calories per lb.) which we obtain +by calculation is lower than the figure (2,768 calories +per lb.) for chocolate given by Sherman in his +book on <i>Food and Nutrition</i> (1918). Probably his figure +is for unsweetened chocolate. The table below shows +the energy-giving value of cocoa and chocolate compared +with well-known foodstuffs. The figures (save +for "eating" chocolate) are taken from Sherman's book, +and are calculated from the analyses given in Bulletin +28 of the United States Department of Agriculture: +</p> + + +<h3>FUEL VALUE OF FOODSTUFFS.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>Foodstuff<br />as Purchased.</i></td> +<td align="right"><i>Calories<br />per lb.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cabbage</td><td align="right">121</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cod Fish</td><td align="right">209</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Apples</td><td align="right">214</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Potatoes</td><td align="right">302</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Milk</td><td align="right">314</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Eggs</td><td align="right">594</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Beef Steak</td><td align="right">960</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Bread (average white)</td><td align="right">1,180</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Oatmeal</td><td align="right">1,811</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Sugar</td><td align="right">1,815</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cocoa</td><td align="right">2,258</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Eating Chocolate</td><td align="right">2,538</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><a name="page177" id="page177"></a></p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image98" id="image98"></a> +<a href="images/image098.jpg"> +<img src="images/image098_thumb.jpg" +alt="PACKING CHOCOLATES AT BOURNVILLE." +title="PACKING CHOCOLATES AT BOURNVILLE." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +PACKING CHOCOLATES AT BOURNVILLE. +</p> +<a name="page178" id="page178"></a> +</div> + + + +<h3><i>Food Value of Milk Chocolate.</i></h3> + +<p> +The value of milk as a food is so generally recognised +as to need no commendation here. When milk is +evaporated to a dry solid, about 87.5 per cent. of water +is driven off, so that the dry milk left has about eight +times the food value of the original milk. Milk chocolate +of good quality contains from 15 to 25 per cent. of +milk solids. Milk chocolate varies greatly in composition, +but for the purpose of calculating the food +value, we may assume that about a quarter of a high-class +milk chocolate consists of solid milk, and this is +combined with about 40 per cent. of cane sugar and +35 per cent. of cacao butter and cacao mass. +</p> + + +<h3>ANALYSIS AND FUEL VALUE OF MILK CHOCOLATE.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td></td> +<td align="center" colspan="2"><i>Energy-giving<br />power.</i><br /><i>Calories per lb.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Milk Fat and Cacao Butter</td><td align="right">35.0</td> +<td align="right">=</td><td align="right">1,480</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Milk and Cocoa Proteins</td><td align="right">8.0</td> +<td align="right">=</td><td align="right">149</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Cacao Starch and Digestible Carbohydrates</td><td align="right">3.0</td> +<td align="right">=</td><td align="right">56</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Stimulants (Theobromine and Caffein)</td><td align="right">0.2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Mineral Matter</td><td align="right">2.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Crude Fibre</td><td align="right">0.3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Moisture</td><td align="right">1.5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Milk Sugar and Cane Sugar</td><td align="right">50.0</td> +<td align="right">=</td><td align="right">930</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="right">100.0</td><td align="right">=</td><td align="right">2,615</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +It will be noted that the food value of milk chocolate +is even greater than that of plain chocolate. It is highly +probable that milk chocolate is the most nutritious of +all sweetmeats. It is not generally recognised that when +we purchase one pound of high-class milk chocolate +we obtain three-quarters of a pound of chocolate and +two pounds of milk! +</p> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="VIII-1" id="VIII-1" href="#VIII-1m">[1]</a> +<i>Hygienische Rundschau</i>, 1900, p. 305. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="VIII-2" id="VIII-2" href="#VIII-2m">[2]</a> +<i>Die Bewertung des Kakaos als Nahrungs- und Genussmittel</i>, 1906. +</div> + +<div class="footnote"> +<a name="VIII-3" id="VIII-3" href="#VIII-3m">[3]</a> +See <i>West India Committee Journal</i>, p. 55, 1917. +</div> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page179" id="page179"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter9" id="chapter9">CHAPTER IX</a></h2> + +<h3>ADULTERATION AND THE NEED FOR DEFINITIONS</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +Those that mix maize in the Chocolate do very ill, for +they beget bilious and melancholy humours. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>A Curious Treatise on the Nature and Quality of Chocolate</i>, +Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma, 1685. +</div> + + +<h3>COCOA.</h3> + +<p> +Cocoa might conveniently be defined as consisting +exclusively of shelled, roasted, finely-ground +cacao beans, partially de-fatted, with +or without a minute quantity of flavouring material. +</p> + +<p> +The gross adulteration of cocoa is now a thing of the +past, and most of the cocoa sold conforms with this +definition. Statements, however, get copied from book +to book, and hence we continue to read that cocoa +usually contains arrowroot or other starch. In the old +days this was frequently so, but now, owing to many +legal actions by Public Health Authorities, this abuse +has been stamped out. Nowadays if a Public Analyst +finds flour or arrowroot in a sample bought as cocoa, +he describes it as adulterated, and the seller is prosecuted +and fined. Hence, save for the presence of cacao +shell, the cocoa of the present day is a pure article +consisting simply of roasted, finely-ground cacao beans +partially de-fatted. The principal factors affecting the +quality of the finished cocoa are the difference in the +kind of cacao bean used, the amount of cacao butter +extracted, the care in preparation, and the amount of +cacao shell left in. +<a name="page180" id="page180"></a> +</p> + +<p +>The presence of more than a small percentage of +shell in cocoa is a disadvantage both on the ground of +taste and of food value. This has been recognised from +the earliest times (see quotations on <a href="#page128">p. 128</a>). In the +Cocoa Powder Order of 1918, the amount of shell +which a cocoa powder might contain was defined—<i>grade +A</i> not to contain more than two per cent. of shell, +and <i>grade B</i> not more than five per cent. of shell. The +manufacturers of high-class cocoa welcomed these +standards, but unfortunately the known analytical +methods are not delicate enough to estimate accurately +such small quantities, so that any external check is +difficult, and the purchaser has to trust to the honesty +of the manufacturer. Hence it is wise to purchase cocoa +only from makers of good repute. +</p> + + +<h3>CHOCOLATE.</h3> + +<p> +We have so far no legal definition of chocolate in +England. As Mr. N.P. Booth pointed out at the +Seventh International Congress of Applied Chemistry: +"At the present time a mixture of cocoa with sugar +and starch cannot be sold as pure cocoa, but only as +'chocolate powder,' and with a definite declaration +that the article is a mixture of cocoa and other ingredients. +Prosecutions are constantly occurring where +mixtures of foreign starch and sugar with cocoa have +been sold as 'cocoa,' and it seems, therefore, a proper +step to take to require that a similar declaration shall +be made in the case of 'chocolate' which contains +other constituents than the products of cocoa nib and +sugar." We cannot do better than quote in full the +definitions suggested in Mr. Booth's paper. +</p> + +<p> +The author refers to the absence of any legal standard +for chocolate in England, although in some of the +European countries standards are in force, and points +out, as a result of this, that articles of which the sale +would be prohibited in some other countries, are permitted +to come without restriction on to the English +market. +<a name="page181" id="page181"></a> +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image99" id="image99"></a> +<a href="images/image099.jpg"> +<img src="images/image099_thumb.jpg" +alt="WHARF AT FACTORY AT KNIGHTON, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.)" +title="WHARF AT FACTORY AT KNIGHTON, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE. +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.)" /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +WHARF AT FACTORY AT KNIGHTON, AT WHICH MILK IS EVAPORATED FOR MILK CHOCOLATE MANUFACTURE.<br /> +(Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.) +</p> +</div> + +<p> +He suggests that the following definitions for chocolate +goods are reasonable, and could be conformed to +by makers of the genuine article. These standards are +not more stringent than those already enforced in +some of the Colonies and European countries: +</p> + +<div class="blkquot"> +<p> +(1) Unsweetened chocolate or <i>cacao mass</i> must be prepared exclusively +from roasted, shelled, finely-ground cacao beans, +with or without the addition of a small quantity of flavouring +matter, and should not contain less than 45 per cent. of cacao +butter. +</p> + +<p> +(2) Sweetened chocolate or <i>chocolate</i>.—A preparation consisting +exclusively of the products of roasted, shelled, finely-ground +cacao beans, and not more than 65 per cent. of sugar, with +or without a small quantity of harmless flavouring matter. +<a name="page182" id="page182"></a> +</p> + +<p> +(3) <i>Granulated</i>, or <i>Ground Chocolate for Drinking</i> purposes.—The +same definition as for sweetened chocolate should apply +here, except that the proportion of sugar may be raised to not +more than 75 per cent. +</p> + +<p> +(4) <i>Chocolate-covered Goods.</i>—Various forms of confectionery +covered with chocolate, the composition of the latter agreeing +with the definition of sweetened chocolate. +</p> + +<p> +(5) <i>Milk Chocolate.</i>—A preparation composed exclusively of +roasted, shelled cacao beans, sugar, and not less than 15 per +cent. of the dry solids of full-cream milk, with or without a +small quantity of harmless flavouring matter. +</p> +</div> + +<p> +Mr. Booth further states that starch other than that +naturally present in the cacao bean, and cacao shell in +powder form, should be absolutely excluded from +any article which is to be sold under the name of +"chocolate." +</p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page183" id="page183"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="chapter10" id="chapter10">CHAPTER X</a></h2> + +<h3>THE CONSUMPTION OF CACAO</h3> + +<div class="blkquot"> +The Kernels that come to us from the Coast of <i>Caraqua</i>, +are more oily, and less bitter, than those that come from the +<i>French</i> Islands, and in <i>France</i> and <i>Spain</i> they prefer them +to these latter. But in <i>Germany</i> and in the <i>North</i> (<i>Fides sit +penes autorem</i>) they have a quite opposite Taste. Several +People mix that of <i>Caraqua</i> with that of the Islands, half in +half, and pretend by this Mixture to make the Chocolate +better. I believe in the bottom, the difference of Chocolates +is not considerable, since they are only obliged to increase +or diminish the Proportion of Sugar, according as the +Bitterness of the Kernels require it. +</div> + +<div class="citation"> +<i>The Natural History of Chocolate</i>, +R. Brookes, 1730. +</div> + + +<p> +The war has caused such a disturbance that the +statistics for the years of the war are difficult +to obtain. For many years the German publication, +the <i>Gordian</i>, was the most reliable source of +cacao statistics, and so far we have nothing in England +sufficiently comprehensive to replace it, although useful +figures can be obtained from the Board of Trade returns +of imports into Great Britain, from Mr. Theo. +Vasmer's reports which appear from time to time in +<i>The Confectioners' Union</i> and elsewhere, from Mr. +Hamel Smith's collated material in <i>Tropical Life</i>, and +from the reports of important brokers like Messrs. +Woodhouse. In 1919 the <i>Bulletin of the Imperial +Institute</i> gave a very complete <i>résumé</i> of cacao production +as far as the British Empire is concerned. +<a name="page184" id="page184"></a> +</p> + + + +<h3><i>Great Britain.</i></h3> + +<p> +Since 1830 the consumption of cacao in the British +Isles has shown a great and continuous increase, and +there is every reason to believe that the consumption +will easily keep pace with the rapidly growing production. +One effect of the war has been to increase the +consumption of cocoa and chocolate. Many thousands +of men who took no interest in "sweets" learned from +the use of their emergency ration that chocolate was a +very convenient and concentrated foodstuff. +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS CLEARED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Year.</td><td> </td> +<td align="right">English<br />Tons.</td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="left">1830</td><td></td><td align="right">450</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1840</td><td></td><td align="right">900</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1850</td><td></td><td align="right">1,400</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1860</td><td></td><td align="right">1,450</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1870</td><td></td><td align="right">3,100</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1880</td><td></td><td align="right">4,700</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1890</td><td></td><td align="right">9,000</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1900</td><td></td><td align="right">16,900</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">1910</td><td></td><td align="right">24,550</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS IMPORTED INTO UNITED KINGDOM.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left">Year.</td><td align="center"><i>Total<br />Imported</i><br />tons.</td> +<td align="center"><i>Retained in<br />the country</i><br />tons.</td> +<td align="center"><i>Home<br />Consumption</i><br />tons.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1912</td><td align="center">33,600</td><td align="center">27,450</td> +<td align="center">24,600</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1913</td><td align="center">35,000</td><td align="center">28,200</td> +<td align="center">23,200</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1914</td><td align="center">41,750</td><td align="center">29,600</td> +<td align="center">24,900</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1915</td><td align="center">81,800</td><td align="center">54,400</td> +<td align="center">40,300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1916</td><td align="center">88,800</td><td align="center">64,750</td> +<td align="center">29,300</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1917</td><td align="center">57,900</td><td align="center">53,100</td> +<td align="center">41,300</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The above figures are compiled from the <i>Bulletin +of the Imperial Institute</i> (No. 1, 1919). The total imports +for 1918 were 42,390 tons. This sudden and +marked drop in the amount imported was due to shortage +of shipping. There were, however, large quantities +of cacao in stock, and the amount consumed +showed a marked advance on previous years, being +61,252 tons. +<a name="page185" id="page185"></a> +</p> + +<p> +The Board of Trade Returns for 1919 are as follow: +</p> + + +<h3>CACAO BEANS IMPORTED INTO UNITED KINGDOM.</h3> + + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="left"><i>From</i></td><td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">British West Africa</td><td align="right">72,886 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">British West Indies</td><td align="right">13,219 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ecuador</td><td align="right">9,153 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Brazil</td><td align="right">3,665 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Ceylon</td><td align="right">903 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Other Countries</td><td align="right" class="bb">13,820 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="right">Total</td><td align="right" class="bb">113,646 tons</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="right">Home Consumption</td><td align="right">64,613 tons</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +It will be noted that the import of British cacao is +over 75 per cent. of the total. +</p> + +<p> +Before the war about half the cacao imported into +the United Kingdom was grown in British possessions. +During the war more and more British cacao was imported, +and now that a preferential duty of seven +shillings per hundredweight has been given to British +Colonial growths we shall probably see a still higher +percentage of British cacao consumed in the United +Kingdom. +</p> + + +<h3>VALUE OF CACAO BEANS IMPORTED INTO THE UNITED KINGDOM (TO +NEAREST £1,000).</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td></td><td align="center">Total value of Cacao</td> +<td align="center" colspan="2">From British Possessions.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Year.</td><td align="center">Beans Imported.</td> +<td align="center"><i>Value.</i></td><td align="center"><i>Per cent.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1913</td><td align="center">£2,199,000</td> +<td align="center">£1,158,000</td><td align="center">52.7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1914</td><td align="center">£2,439,000</td> +<td align="center">£1,204,000</td><td align="center">49.4</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1915</td><td align="center">£5,747,000</td> +<td align="center">£3,546,000</td><td align="center">61.7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1916</td><td align="center">£6,498,000</td> +<td align="center">£4,417,000</td><td align="center">68.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1917</td><td align="center">£3,498,000</td> +<td align="center">£3,010,000</td><td align="center">86.0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1918</td><td align="center">£3,040,000</td> +<td align="center">£2,549,000</td><td align="center">83.8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">1919</td><td align="center">£9,207,000</td> +<td align="center">£6,639,000</td><td align="center">72.1</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +That the consumption of cacao is expected to grow +greater yet in the immediate future is reflected in the +prices of raw cacao, which, as soon as they were no +longer fixed by the Government, rose rapidly, thus +Accra cacao rose from 65s. per hundredweight to over +90s. per hundredweight in a few weeks, and now +(January, 1920) stands at 104s. (See diagram <a href="#page113">p. 113</a>). +<a name="page186" id="page186"></a> +</p> + + +<h3><i>World Consumption.</i></h3> + +<p> +The world's consumption of cacao is steadily rising. +Before the war the United States, Germany, Holland, +Great Britain, France, and Switzerland were the principal +consumers. Whilst we have increased our consumption, +so that Great Britain now occupies second +place, the United States has outstripped all the other +countries, having doubled its consumption in a few +years, and is now taking almost as much as all the +rest of the world put together. It is thought that since +America has "gone dry" this remarkably large consumption +is likely to be maintained. +</p> + + +<h3>WORLD'S CONSUMPTION OF CACAO BEANS.</h3> + +<div class="centre"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr> +<td align="center" colspan="5">(to the nearest thousand tons)<br />1 ton = 1000 kilograms.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bb"> </td><td align="center" class="bl bb"><i>Pre-war</i></td> +<td align="center" colspan="2" class="bl bb"><i>War Period</i></td> +<td align="center" class="bl bb"><i>Post-war</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Country.</td><td align="right" class="bl">1913.<br />Tons.</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">Average of<br />1914, 5, 6,<br />&. 7. Tons.</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">1918.<br />Tons.</td><td align="right" class="bl">1919.<br />Tons.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">U.S.A.</td><td align="right" class="bl">68,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">103,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">145,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">145,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Germany</td><td align="right" class="bl">51,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">28,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">13,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Holland</td><td align="right" class="bl">30,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">25,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">39,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Great Britain</td><td align="right" class="bl">28,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">41,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">62,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">66,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">France</td><td align="right" class="bl">28,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">35,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">39,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">46,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Switzerland</td><td align="right" class="bl">10,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">14,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">18,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">21,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Austria</td><td align="right" class="bl">7,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Belgium</td><td align="right" class="bl">6,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">1,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">1,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">8,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Spain</td><td align="right" class="bl">6,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">7,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">6,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">8,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Russia</td><td align="right" class="bl">5,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">4,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Canada</td><td align="right" class="bl">3,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">4,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">9,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Italy</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">5,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">6,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">6,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Denmark</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Sweden</td><td align="right" class="bl">1,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left">Norway</td><td align="right" class="bl">1,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">2,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">?</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="left" class="bb">Other countries (estimated)</td> +<td align="right" class="bl bb">5,000</td><td align="right" class="bl bb">8,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl bb">11,000</td><td align="right" class="bl bb">26,000</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align="right">Total</td><td align="right" class="bl">252,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">283,000</td><td align="right" class="bl">305,000</td> +<td align="right" class="bl">380,000</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p> +The above figures are compiled chiefly from Mr. +Theo. Vasmer's reports. The <i>Gordian</i> estimates that +<a name="page187" id="page187"></a> +the world's consumption in 1918 was 314,882 tons. +In several of our larger colonies and in at least one +European country there is obviously ample room for +increase in the consumption. When one considers the +great population of Russia, four to five thousand tons +per annum is a very small amount to consume. It is +pleasant to think of cocoa being drunk in the icebound +North of Russia—it brings to mind so picturesque +a contrast: cacao, grown amongst the richly-coloured +flora of the tropics, consumed in a land that is white +with cold. When Russia has reached a more stable +condition we shall doubtless see a rapid expansion in +the cacao consumption. +</p> + +<div class="centre"> +<a name="image100" id="image100"></a> +<a href="images/image100.jpg"> +<img class="noborder" src="images/image100_thumb.jpg" +alt="CACAO PODS, LEAVES AND FLOWERS. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Fry & Sons, Ltd., Bristol." +title="CACAO PODS, LEAVES AND FLOWERS. +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Fry & Sons, Ltd., Bristol." /> +</a> +<p class="caption"> +CACAO PODS, LEAVES AND FLOWERS.<br /> +Reproduced by permission of Messrs. Fry & Sons, Ltd., Bristol. +</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page191" id="page191"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="bibliography" id="bibliography">BIBLIOGRAPHY</a></h2> + +<h3>BOOKS ON +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE ARRANGED IN +ORDER OF DATE OF PUBLICATION.</h3> + + + +<h4>1600-1700</h4> + + +<div style="margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%"> +<p><b>RAUCH, Joan. Franc.</b></p> + +<p> +DISPUTATIO MEDICO DIOETETICA DE AËRE ET +ESCULENTIS, DE NECNON POTU. +</p> + +<p>Vienna 1624</p> + +<p> +[Condemns cocoa as a violent inflamer of the passions.] +</p> + + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>COLMENERO, Antonio de Ledesma.</b></p> + +<p> +[<b>Treatise on Chocolate in Spanish entitled:</b>] +</p> + +<p> +CURIOSO TRATADO DE LA NATURALEZA Y +CALIDAD DEL CHOCOLATE, DIVIDIDO EN +QUATRO PUNTOS. +</p> + +<p>Madrid 1631</p> + +<ul> +<li>Translated into English by Don Diego de Vades-forte 1640</li> +<li>Translated into French by René Moreau 1643</li> +<li>Translated into Latin by J.G. Volckamer 1644</li> +<li>Translated into English by J. Wadsworth 1652</li> +<li>Translated into Italian by A. Vitrioli 1667</li> +<li>Moreau's translation edited by Sylvestre Dufour 1671 and 1685</li> +<li>and translated into English by J. Chamberlaine 1685</li> +</ul> + +<p> +[for titles, etc., see under translators] +</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>DE VADES-FORTE, Don Diego.</b></p> + +<p>[<b>The magnificent pseudonym of J. Wadsworth.</b>] +(<b>Translated by</b>.)</p> + +<p> +A CURIOUS TREATISE OF THE NATURE AND QUALITY OF CHOCOLATE<br /> +by Antonio de Ledesma Colmenero. +</p> + +<p>London 1640</p> + +<p> <a name="page192" id="page192"></a></p> + +<p><b>MOREAU, René.</b> (<b>Translated by.</b>)</p> + +<p> +DU CHOCOLAT DISCOURS CURIEUX<br /> +by Antonio de Ledesma Colmenero. pp. 59. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1643</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p>[<b>VOLCKAMER, J.G. Translated by.</b>]</p> + +<p> +CHOCOLATA INDA, OPUSCULUM DE QUALITATE ET NATURA CHOCOLATAE<br /> +by Antonio de Ledesma Colmenero. pp. 73. +</p> + +<p>Norimbergae 1644</p> + +<p>(In same volume with this is "Opobalsamum Orientalae" +and "Pisonis Observationes Medicae." Total +pp. 224.)</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>WADSWORTH, J.</b> (<b>Translated by.</b>)</p> + +<p> +CHOCOLATE: OR AN INDIAN DRINKE ETC.<br /> +by Antonio Ledesma Colmenero. +</p> + +<p>London 1652</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>STUBBE(S), Henry.</b></p> + +<p> +THE INDIAN NECTAR OR A DISCOURSE CONCERNING CHOCOLATA.<br /> +pp. 184. +</p> + +<p>London 1662</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BRANCATIUS, Franciscus Maria.</b></p> + +<p> +DE CHOCALATIS POTU DIATRIBE.<br /> +pp. 36. +</p> + +<p>Rome 1664</p> + +<p> <a name="comm1665" id="comm1665"></a></p> + +<p><b>PAULLI, Simon.</b></p> + +<p> +COMMENTARIUS DE ABUSU TABACI THEE. +</p> + +<p>Argentorati (see <a href="#comm1746">1746</a>) 1665</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>VITRIOLI, A.</b> (<b>Translated by.</b>)</p> + +<p> +DELLA CIOCCOLATA DISCORSO.<br /> +[From Moreau's translation of Colmenero's book.] +</p> + +<p>Rome 1667</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SEBASTUS MELISSENUS, F. Nicephorus.</b></p> + +<p> +DE CHOCOLATIS POTIONE RESOLUTIO MORALIS.<br /> +pp. 36. +</p> + +<p>Naples 1671</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SYLVESTRE DUFOUR, P.</b> [<b>Edited by.</b>]</p> + +<p> +DE L'USAGE DU CAPHÉ, DU THÉ, ET DU CHOCOLAT.<br /> +pp. 188. +</p> + +<p>Lyon 1671</p> + +<p> +[The part on chocolate, pp. 59, is a revision of Moreau's +translation of Colmenero's book, plus B. Marradon's +dialogue on chocolate.]<br /> +Translated into English by J. +Chamberlaine (which see). <a href="#dufour1685">1685</a> +</p> + +<p> <a name="page193" id="page193"></a></p> + + +<p><b>HUGHES, William.</b></p> + +<p> +THE AMERICAN PHYSITIAN ... WHEREUNTO IS ADDED A DISCOURSE ON THE +CACAO-NUT-TREE, AND THE USE OF ITS FRUIT, WITH ALL THE WAYS OF MAKING +CHOCOLATE. +</p> + +<p>London 1672</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>AUTHOR NOT GIVEN.</b></p> + +<p> +DESCRIPTION AND MANAGEMENT OF THE COCOA TREE.<br /> +Phil. Trans. Abr. II. pp. 59. +</p> + +<p>1673</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BONTEKOE, Willem.</b></p> + +<p>Sundry short treatises in Dutch on Cocoa and Chocolate. +</p> + +<p>about 1679</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>AUTHOR NOT GIVEN.</b></p> + +<p> +THE NATURAL HISTORY OF COFFEE, TEA, +CHOCOLATE, TOBACCO AND ALSO THE WAY +OF MAKING MUM.<br /> +pp. 39. Printed for Christopher +Wilkinson. +</p> + +<p>London 1682</p> + +<p>[Condemns chocolate on account of its containing "such +a corrosive salt" as sugar. Mum is a peculiar kind of +beer made from wheat malt.]</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MUNDY, Henry.</b></p> + +<p> +OPERA OMNIA MEDICO-PHYSICA DE AËRE +VITALI, ESCULENTIS ET POTULENTIS CUM +APPENDICE DE PARERGIS IN VICTU ET +CHOCOLATU, THEA, CAFFEA, TOBACCO. +</p> + +<p> +Oxford 1680<br /> +Leyden 1685 +</p> + +<p> <a name="dufour1685" id="dufour1685"></a></p> + +<p><b>SYLVESTRE DUFOUR, P.</b></p> + +<p> +TRAITEZ NOUVEAUX ET CURIEUX DU CAFÉ, +DU THÉ ET DU CHOCOLAT.<br /> +[The treatise on +chocolate is compiled from the Spanish of Colmenero +and B. Marradon.] pp. 403. +</p> + +<p>à la Haye 1685</p> + +<p> +(With additions by St. Disdier) pp. 404.<br /> +à la Haye 1693 +</p> + +<p> +Published by Deville. pp. 404.<br /> +Lyon 1688 +</p> + +<p> +The above in Latin (by J. Spon),<br /> +"TRACTATUS NOVI DE POTU CAPHE, DE CHIENSIUM, THE, ET DE CHOCOLATA."<br /> +pp. 202.<br /> +Paris 1685<br /> +</p> + +<p> +A further Latin translation of the above,<br /> +"NOVI TRACTATUS DE POTU CAPHE DE CHIENSIUM, THE, ET DE CHOCOLATA."<br /> +pp. 188.<br /> +Geneva 1699<br /> +</p> + +<p> <a name="page194" id="page194"></a></p> + + +<p><b>CHAMBERLAINE, J.</b> (<b>Translated by.</b>)</p> + +<p> +THE MANNER OF MAKING COFFEE, TEA AND CHOCOLATE,<br /> +pp. 116. +</p> + +<p>London 1685</p> + +<p>[A translation of Sylvestre Dufour's compilation, the +part on Chocolate entitled "A Curious Treatise of the +Nature and Quality of Chocolate," being a translation +of Colmenero's book.]</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BLEGNY, Nicholas de.</b></p> + +<p> +LE BON USAGE DE THÉ, DU CAFFÉ, ET DU +CHOCOLAT POUR LA PRESERVATION ET POUR +LA GUERISON DES MALADES. +</p> + +<ul> +<li>pp. 358. Paris 1687</li> +<li>pp. 358. Lyon 1687</li> +</ul> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MAPPUS, Marcus.</b></p> + +<p> +DISSERTATIONES MEDICAE TRES DE RECEPTIS +HODIE ETIAM IN EUROPA, POTUS CALIDI +GENERIBUS THÉE, CAFÉ, CHOCOLATA.<br /> +pp. 66. +</p> + +<p>Argentorati 1695</p> + +<p> </p> + + +<h4>1701-1800</h4> + + +<p><b>DUNCAN, Dr.</b></p> + +<p> +WHOLESOME ADVICE AGAINST THE ABUSE OF +HOT LIQUORS, PARTICULARLY OF COFFEE, +TEA, CHOCOLATE, ETC.<br /> +pp. 280. +</p> + +<p>London 1706</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>AUTHOR NOT GIVEN</b> [<b>by De Chélus.</b>]</p> + +<p>HISTOIRE NATURELLE DU CACAO ET DU +SUCRE.</p> + +<ul> +<li>pp. 227. Paris 1719</li> +<li>pp. 228. Amsterdam 1720</li> +<li>pp. 404. Amsterdam 1720</li> +<li>pp. 95. London 1724</li> +</ul> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BROOKES, R.</b> [<b>the above by De Chélus.</b>] +(<b>Translated by.</b>)</p> + +<p>NATURAL HISTORY OF CHOCOLATE.</p> + +<ul> +<li>pp. 95. Printed for J. Roberts, London 1724</li> +<li>pp. 95. Printed for Browne, London 1725</li> +<li>pp. 95. Printed for J. Roberts, London 1730</li> +</ul> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>ACT OF PARLIAMENT, George II, 1723.</b></p> + +<p> +Relating to<br /> +"LAYING INLAND DUTIES ON COFFEE, +TEA AND CHOCOLATE." +</p> + +<p>London 1724</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BRUCKMAN, F.E.</b></p> + +<p>RELATIO DE CACAO.</p> + +<p>Brunswick 1738</p> + +<p> <a name="page195" id="page195"></a></p> + + +<p><b>BARON, H.T.</b></p> + +<p>AN SENIBUS CHOCOLATAE PUTUS?</p> + +<p>Paris 1739</p> + +<p> <a name="comm1746" id="comm1746"></a></p> + +<p><b>PAULI, S.</b> [<b>PAULLI.</b>]</p> + +<p> +A TREATISE ON TOBACCO, TEA, COFFEE AND +CHOCOLATE.<br /> +Translated by Dr. James. pp. 171. +</p> + +<p>London (see <a href="#comm1665">1665</a>) 1746</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>N.N.</b> [<b>pseudonym of D. CONGINA.</b>]</p> + +<p> +MEMORIE STORICHE SOPRA L'USO DELLA +CIOCCOLATA IN TEMPO DI DIGIUNO ETC.<br /> +Historical memoir on the use of chocolate upon fast +days. pp. 196. +</p> + +<p>Venice 1748</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>STAYLEY, G.</b></p> + +<p> +THE CHOCOLATE MAKERS OR MIMICKRY +EXPOSED.<br /> +An Interlude. +</p> + +<p>Dublin 1759</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>AUTHOR NOT GIVEN.</b></p> + +<p> +OBSERVATIONS SUR LE CACAO ET SUR LE +CHOCOLAT.<br /> +pp. 144. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1772</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SMITH, Hugh.</b></p> + +<p> +AN ESSAY ON FOREIGN TEAS, WITH OBSERVATIONS +ON MINERAL WATERS, COFFEE, +CHOCOLATE, ETC. +</p> + +<p>London 1794</p> + +<p> </p> + + +<h4>1801-1900</h4> + + +<p><b>PARMENTIER</b></p> + +<p> +ON THE COMPOSITION AND USE OF CHOCOLATE.<br /> +Nicholson's Journal. +</p> + +<p>London 1803</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>GALLAIS, A.</b></p> + +<p> +MONOGRAPHIE DU CACAO.<br /> +pp. 216. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1827</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MITSCHERLICH, A.</b></p> + +<p> +DER KAKAO UND DIE SCHOKOLADE. +</p> + +<p>Berlin 1859</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>GOSSELIN, A.</b></p> + +<p> +MANUEL DES CHOCOLATIERS.<br /> +pp. 53. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1860</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MANGIN, A.</b></p> + +<p> +LE CACAO ET LA CHOCOLAT.</p> + +<p>Paris 1862</p> + +<p> <a name="page196" id="page196"></a></p> + + +<p><b>HEWETT, C.</b> (<b>of Messrs. Dunn and Hewett.</b>)</p> + +<p> +CHOCOLATE AND COCOA, GROWTH AND PREPARATION.<br /> +pp. 88. +</p> + +<p>London 1862</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>COMPAGNIE COLONIALE.</b></p> + +<p> +CHOCOLATE: ITS CHARACTER AND HISTORY.<br /> +pp. 37. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1868</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>HOLM, J.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA AND ITS MANUFACTURE. +</p> + +<p>Rivers, London.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SINCLAIR, W.J.</b></p> + +<p> +BEVERAGES, TEA, COCOA, ETC.<br /> +(Health Lectures, Vol. 4). +</p> + +<p>Manchester 1881</p> + +<p> <a name="fabrik1881" id="fabrik1881"></a></p> + +<p><b>SALDAU, E.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE CHOCOLADE-FABRIKATION.<br /> +pp. 232. +</p> + +<p>Vienna (see <a href="#fabrik1907">1907</a>) 1881</p> + +<p> <a name="grow1882" id="grow1882"></a></p> + +<p><b>MORRIS, D.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO: HOW TO GROW IT.<br /> +pp. 45. +</p> + +<p>Jamaica 1882 (see <a href="#grow1887">1887</a>)</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>TRINIDAD Agricultural Association.</b></p> + +<p> +CURING OF COCOA DISCUSSED.<br /> +pp. 6. +</p> + +<p>1885</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BARTELINK, E.J.</b></p> + +<p> +HANDLEIDING VOOR KAKAO-PLANTERS.<br /> +pp. 68. +</p> + +<p>Amsterdam 1885</p> + +<p> +English Translation,<br /> +"THE CACAO PLANTERS' MANUAL."<br /> +pp. 57. +</p> + +<p>London 1885</p> + +<p> <a name="baker1886" id="baker1886"></a></p> + +<p><b>BAKER, W., & Co.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.<br /> +pp. 152. +</p> + +<p>Dorchester, Mass., U.S.A. (see <a href="#baker1891">1891</a> and <a href="#baker1899">1899</a>) 1886</p> + +<p> <a name="grow1887" id="grow1887"></a></p> + +<p><b>MORRIS, D.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO: HOW TO GROW IT.<br /> +pp. 42. +</p> + +<p>Jamaica 1887 (see <a href="#grow1882">1882</a>)</p> + +<p> <a name="fab1889" id="fab1889"></a></p> + +<p><b>ZIPPERER, P.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE CHOCOLADE FABRIKATION.<br /> +pp. 181. +</p> + +<p>Berlin (see <a href="#fab1902">1902</a> and <a href="#fab1913">1913</a>) 1889</p> + +<p> <a name="page197" id="page197"></a></p> + +<p><b>BANNISTER, R.</b></p> + +<p> +CANTOR LECTURES ON SUGAR, COFFEE, TEA AND COCOA.<br /> +pp. 77. +</p> + +<p>London 1890</p> + +<p> <a name="baker1891" id="baker1891"></a></p> + +<p><b>BAKER, W., & Co.</b></p> + +<p> +THE CHOCOLATE PLANT AND ITS PRODUCTS.<br /> +pp. 40. +</p> + +<p>Dorchester, Mass., U.S.A. (see <a href="#baker1886">1886</a> and <a href="#baker1899">1899</a>) 1891</p> + +<p> <a name="cacao1892" id="cacao1892"></a></p> + +<p><b>HART, J.H.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO.<br /> +pp. 77. +</p> + +<p>Port of Spain, Trinidad (see <a href="#cacao1900">1900</a> and <a href="#cacao1911">1911</a>) 1892</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>HATTON, J.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA.<br /> +pp. 22. +</p> + +<p>London 1892</p> + +<p> <a name="cocoa1892" id="cocoa1892"></a></p> + +<p><b>HISTORICUS.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA: ALL ABOUT IT.<br /> +pp. 114. +</p> + +<p>London (see <a href="#cocoa1896">1896</a>) 1892</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>GORDIAN, A.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE DEUTSCHE SCHOKOLADEN UND ZUCKER-WAREN INDUSTRIE.<br /> +Hartleben's Verlag. +</p> + +<p>Hamburg 1895</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>ROQUE, L. De Belfort de la.</b></p> + +<p> +GUIDE PRATIQUE DE LA FABRICATION DU +CHOCOLAT. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1895</p> + +<p> <a name="cocoa1896" id="cocoa1896"></a></p> + +<p><b>HISTORICUS.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA: ALL ABOUT IT.<br /> +pp. 99. +</p> + +<p>London (see <a href="#cocoa1892">1892</a>) 1896</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>VILLON.</b></p> + +<p> +MANUEL DU CONFISEUR ET DU CHOCOLAT. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1896</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>GOLDOS, L.</b></p> + +<p> +MANNUAL DE FABRICACIÓN INDUSTRIAL DE +CHOCOLATE.<br /> +pp. 261. +</p> + +<p>Madrid 1897</p> + +<p> <a name="plant1897" id="plant1897"></a></p> + +<p><b>OLIVIERI, F.E.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO PLANTING AND ITS CULTIVATION.<br /> +pp. 34. +</p> + +<p>Port of Spain, Trinidad (see <a href="#plant1903">1903</a>) 1897</p> + +<p> <a name="page198" id="page198"></a></p> + +<p><b>EPPS, James.</b></p> + +<p> +THE CACAO PLANT.<br /> +pp. 11. (Transactions Croydon Microscopical +and Natural History Club) +</p> + +<p>1898</p> + +<p> <a name="baker1899" id="baker1899"></a></p> + +<p><b>BAKER, W., & Co.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE.<br /> +pp. 71. +</p> + +<p>Dorchester, Mass., U.S.A. (see <a href="#baker1886">1886</a> and <a href="#baker1891">1891</a>) 1899</p> + +<p> <a name="cacao1900" id="cacao1900"></a></p> + +<p><b>HART, J.H.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO.<br /> +pp. 117. +</p> + +<p>Port of Spain, Trinidad (see <a href="#cacao1892">1892</a> and <a href="#cacao1911">1911</a>) 1900</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>JUMELLE, H.</b></p> + +<p> +LE CACOYER: SA CULTURE ET SON EXPLOITATION.<br /> +pp. 211. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1900</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MENIER.</b></p> + +<p> +HISTORIQUE DES ÉTABLISSEMENTS MENIER.<br /> +(Printed for Exposition Universelle.) pp. 44. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1900</p> + +<p> </p> + +<h4>MODERN WORKS, 1901-1920.</h4> + + +<h4>(<i>a</i>) <i>Cacao Cultivation.</i></h4> + + +<p><b>SMITH, H. Hamel.</b></p> + +<p> +SOME NOTES ON COCOA PLANTING IN THE +WEST INDIES.<br /> +pp. 70. +</p> + +<p>1901</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>WILDEMAN, E. de.</b></p> + +<p> +LES PLANTES TROPICALES DE GRANDE CULTURE—CAFE, +CACAO, ETC.<br /> +pp. 304. +</p> + +<p>Bruxelles 1902</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>PREUSS, Paul.</b></p> + +<p> +EXPEDITION NACH CENTRAL UND SÜD-AMERIKA. +</p> + +<p>Berlin.</p> + +<p> +French translation of part of the above,<br /> +"LE CACAO, CULTURE ET PREPARATION"<br /> +(from Bulletin Société d'Etudes Coloniales). pp. 249. +</p> + +<p>1902</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>EITLING, C.</b></p> + +<p> +DER KAKAO, SEINE KULTUR UND BEREITUNG.<br /> +pp. 39. +</p> + +<p>1903</p> + +<p> <a name="page199" id="page199"></a> +<a name="plant1903" id="plant1903"></a></p> + +<p><b>OLIVIERI, F.E.</b></p> + +<p> +TREATISE ON CACAO.<br /> +pp. 101. +</p> + +<p>Trinidad (see <a href="#plant1897">1897</a>) 1903</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>KINDT, L.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE KULTUR DES KAKAOBAUMES UND SEINE +SCHÄDLINGE.<br /> +pp. 157. +</p> + +<p>Hamburg 1904</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>STEUART, M.E.</b></p> + +<p> +EVERYDAY LIFE ON A CEYLON COCOA +ESTATE.<br /> +pp. 256. +</p> + +<p>London 1905</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>CHALOT, C. and LUC, M.</b></p> + +<p> +LE CACOYER AU CONGO FRANCAIS.<br /> +pp. 58. +</p> + +<p>1906</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>FAUCHERE, A.</b></p> + +<p> +CULTURE PRATIQUE DU CACAOYER ET PREPARATION +DU CACAO.<br /> +pp. 175. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1906</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>PRUD'HOMME, E.</b></p> + +<p> +LE COCOTIER. CULTURE, INDUSTRIE ET +COMMERCE.<br /> +pp. 491. +</p> + +<p>1906</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>DE MENDONCA, Monteiro.</b></p> + +<p> +BOA ENTRADA PLANTATIONS, SAN THOMÉ.<br /> +pp. 63. +</p> + +<p>London 1907</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MOUNTMORRES, Viscount.</b></p> + +<p> +MAIZE, COCOA, RUBBER.<br /> +pp. 44. +</p> + +<p>Liverpool 1907</p> + +<p> <a name="fabrik1907" id="fabrik1907"></a></p> + +<p><b>SALDAU, E.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE SCHOKOLADEN FABRIKATION. +</p> + +<p>Vienna (see <a href="#fabrik1881">1881</a>) 1907</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>WRIGHT, H.</b></p> + +<p> +THEOBROMA CACAO OR COCOA.<br /> +pp. 249. +</p> + +<p>Colombo 1907</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>RAFAELI, V., and MAXIMILIANO, E.</b></p> + +<p> +HOW JOSÉ FORMED HIS CACAO ESTATE.<br /> +pp. 18. +</p> + +<p>Trinidad 1907</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>TORAILLE, C.F.</b></p> + +<p> +STOLEN FROM THE FIELDS. A TREATISE ON +CACAO AND ITS CULTIVATION. +</p> + +<p>Trinidad 1907</p> + +<p> <a name="page200" id="page200"></a></p> + +<p><b>HUGGINS, J.D.</b></p> + +<p> +HINTS TO THOSE ENGAGING IN THE CULTIVATION +OF COCOA.<br /> +pp. 24. +</p> + +<p>Port of Spain, Trinidad 1908</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SMITH, H. Hamel.</b></p> + +<p> +THE FUTURE OF CACAO PLANTING.<br /> +pp. 95. +</p> + +<p>London 1908</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>ATBE.</b></p> + +<p> +EL CULTIVO LAS DISERSAS INDUSTRIAS DES +COCO.<br /> +pp. 42. +</p> + +<p>Quito 1909</p> + +<p> <a name="cacao1911" id="cacao1911"></a></p> + +<p><b>HART, J.H.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO.<br /> +pp. 307. +</p> + +<p>Duckworth, London (see <a href="#cacao1892">1892</a> and <a href="#cacao1900">1900</a>) 1911</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SMITH, H. Hamel.</b></p> + +<p> +NOTES ON SOIL AND PLANT SANITATION ON +CACAO AND RUBBER ESTATES.<br /> +pp. 603. +</p> + +<p>Bale, London 1911</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>CARVATHO, d'Almeida.</b></p> + +<p> +A ILHA DE S. THOME E A AGRICULTURA PROGRESSIVA.<br /> +(Includes Culturas de Cacoeiro.) pp. 228. +</p> + +<p>Lisbon 1912</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>JOHNSON, W.H.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA: ITS CULTIVATION AND PREPARATION.<br /> +pp. 186. (Imperial Institute.) +</p> + +<p>London 1912</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>AUTHOR NOT GIVEN.</b></p> + +<p> +CACAO CULTURE IN THE WEST INDIES<br /> +pp. 75. +</p> + +<p>Havana. (Published by German Alkali Works, Cuba.) 1912</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>HENRY, Yves.</b></p> + +<p> +LE CACAO.<br /> +pp. 103. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1913</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>SMITH, H. Hamel.</b></p> + +<p> +THE FERMENTATION OF CACAO.<br /> +pp. 318.> +</p> + +<p>Bale, London 1913</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>MALINS-SMITH, W.M.</b></p> + +<p> +PRACTICAL CACAO PLANTING IN GRENADA.<br /> +(<i>West India Committee Circular</i>, April to December.) +</p> + +<p>1913</p> + +<p> <a name="page201" id="page201"></a></p> + +<p><b>HALL, C.J.J. van.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA.<br /> +pp. 512. +</p> + +<p>Macmillan, London 1914</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>KNAPP, A.W.</b></p> + +<p> +THE PRACTICE OF CACAO FERMENTATION.<br /> +pp. 24. +</p> + +<p>Bale, London 1914</p> + +<p> </p> + +<h4>(<i>b</i>) <i>Chocolate Manufacture.</i></h4> + + +<p><b>BESSELICH, N.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE SCHOKOLADE.<br /> +pp. 74. +</p> + +<p>Trier.</p> + +<p> <a name="fab1902" id="fab1902"></a></p> + +<p><b>ZIPPERER, P.</b></p> + +<p> +MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE.<br /> +pp. 277. +</p> + +<p>Berlin, London and New York (see <a href="#fab1889">1889</a> and <a href="#fab1913">1913</a>) 1902</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>DUVAL, E.</b></p> + +<p> +CONFISERIE MODERNE. +</p> + +<p>1908</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BOOTH, N.P., CRIBB, C.H., and +ELLIS-RICHARDS, P.A.</b></p> + +<p> +THE COMPOSITION AND ANALYSIS OF CHOCOLATE.<br /> +Reprinted from the <i>Analyst</i>. pp. 15. +</p> + +<p>London 1909</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>FRITSCH, F.</b></p> + +<p> +FABRICATION DU CHOCOLAT.<br /> +pp. 349. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1910</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>FRANCOIS, L.</b></p> + +<p> +LES ALIMENTS SUCRES INDUSTRIELS<br /> +(Chocolats, Bonbons, etc.)<br /> +pp. 143. +</p> + +<p>Paris 1912</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>WHYMPER, R.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA AND CHOCOLATE: THEIR CHEMISTRY +AND MANUFACTURE.<br /> +pp. 327. +</p> + +<p>Churchill, London 1912</p> + +<p> <a name="fab1913" id="fab1913"></a></p> + +<p><b>ZIPPERER, P.</b></p> + +<p> +DIE SCHOKOLADEN-FABRIKATION.<br /> +pp. 349. +</p> + +<p>Berlin (see also <a href="#fab1889">1889</a> and <a href="#fab1902">1902</a>) 1913</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>JACOUTOT, Auguste.</b></p> + +<p> +CHOCOLATE AND CONFECTIONERY MANUFACTURE.<br /> +pp. xv, 211. +</p> + +<p>J. Baker & Sons. London</p> + +<p> <a name="page202" id="page202"></a></p> + + +<h4>(<i>c</i>) <i>General.</i></h4> + +<p><b>WINTON, A.L., SILVERMAN, M., and +BAILEY, E.M.</b></p> + +<p> +[ANALYSES OF CACAO AND COCOA.]<br /> +Report Connecticut Agri. Expt. Station, U.S.A.<br /> +pp. 40. +</p> + +<p>1902</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>HEAD, Brandon.</b></p> + +<p> +THE FOOD OF THE GODS.<br /> +pp. 109. +</p> + +<p>London 1903</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>STOLLWERCK, W.</b></p> + +<p> +DER KAKAO UND DIE SCHOKOLADEN INDUSTRIE.<br /> +pp. 102. +</p> + +<p>Jena 1907</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p> +<b>U.S. CONSULAR REPORT NO. 50</b><br /> +(<b>Dept. of Commerce and Labour.</b>) +</p> + +<p> +COCOA PRODUCTION AND TRADE.<br /> +pp. 51. +</p> + +<p>Washington 1912</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>CASTILLO, Ledon.</b></p> + +<p> +EL CHOCOLATE.<br /> +pp. vi, 30. +</p> + +<p>Mexico 1917</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>BULLETIN IMPERIAL INSTITUTE.</b></p> + +<p> +COCOA PRODUCTION IN THE BRITISH EMPIRE.<br /> +pp. 40-95. +</p> + +<p>London 1919</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p><b>KNAPP, A.W., and McLELLAN, B.G.</b></p> + +<p> +THE ESTIMATION OF CACAO SHELL<br /> +(reprint from <i>Analyst</i>).<br /> +pp. 21. +</p> + +<p>London 1919</p> +</div> + +<hr /> + +<p> +The bibliography above is made as complete as +possible as far as bound books in English are concerned. +It also gives the more important continental +publications. Should any errors or omissions have +been made here or elsewhere, the author will be grateful +if readers will point them out. +<a name="page203" id="page203"></a> +</p> + + +<h3>PERIODICALS.</h3> + +<p> +Only one or two of the important papers in current +literature are mentioned. Much valuable material is +to be found in the following: +</p> + + +<h5><span class="smcap">Cacao Production</span></h5> + +<p> +The papers published by the various departments +of agriculture (especially those of Trinidad, Grenada, +Philippines, Java, Ceylon, Gold Coast, Kew, etc.), +the <i>Bulletin of the Imperial Institute</i>, <i>The West India +Committee Circular</i>, <i>Tropical Life</i>, <i>West Africa</i>, <i>Der +Tropenpflanzer</i>, etc. +</p> + + +<h5><span class="smcap">Statistics</span></h5> + +<p> +<i>The Gordian</i>, <i>Tea and Coffee Trade Journal</i>. +</p> + + +<h5><span class="smcap">Manufacture</span></h5> + +<p> +<i>The Confectioners' Union</i>. +</p> + + +<h5><span class="smcap">Chemistry</span></h5> + +<p> +<i>The Analyst</i>, the <i>Journal of the Society of Chemical +Industry</i>, and the <i>Journal of the Chemical Society</i>. +</p> + +<hr class="longer" /> + +<p><a name="page207" id="page207"></a></p> + +<h2><a name="index" id="index">INDEX</a></h2> + +<div class="centre"> +<p> +<i>Asterisks denote illustrations.</i> +</p> +</div> + +<ul> +<li><a name="accra" id="accra"></a> +ACCRA, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a>, + <a href="#page114">114</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a> + (<i>see also</i> <a href="#goldcoast">Gold Coast</a>)</li> +<li>Acids produced by fermentation, <a href="#page57">57</a></li> +<li>Adulterants, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> +<li>Adulteration, cocoa, <a href="#page179">179</a> + <ul> + <li>chocolate, <a href="#page180">180</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Agostini cacao picker, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#image23">*46</a></li> +<li>Agricultural colleges, <a href="#page42">42</a> + <ul> + <li>education, <a href="#page90">90</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Alcohol produced by fermentation, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page57">57</a></li> +<li>Alkaline treating of cocoa, <a href="#page173">173</a></li> +<li>Allen, Grant, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Altitude, cacao cultivation, <a href="#page18">18</a></li> +<li>Alligator cacao, <a href="#page24">24</a></li> +<li><a name="analyses" id="analyses"></a> +Analytical composition—cacao bean, <a href="#page166">166</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao butter, <a href="#page159">159</a></li> + <li>cacao shell, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> + <li>chocolate, <a href="#page176">176</a></li> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#page168">168</a></li> + <li>milk chocolate, <a href="#page178">178</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li><a name="arriba" id="arriba"></a> +ARRIBA, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page84">84</a> + (<i>see also</i> <a href="#guayaquil">Guayaquil</a>)</li> +<li>Aztec, <a href="#page5">5</a>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Bacteria—fermentation, <a href="#page57">57</a></li> +<li>Bagging cacao beans, <a href="#image60">*107</a>, <a href="#image62">*110</a></li> +<li>BAHIA, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page87">87</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Bainbridge and Davies, <a href="#page125">125</a></li> +<li>Baker & Co., Walter, <a href="#page121">121</a></li> +<li><a name="beans" id="beans"></a> +Beans, <a href="#page3">3</a>, <a href="#page167">167</a>, <a href="#image75">*129</a> + <ul> + <li>breaking machine, <a href="#page130">130</a></li> + <li>breaking of, into fragments, <a href="#page130">130</a></li> + <li>changes—fermentation, <a href="#page57">57</a></li> + <li>characteristics of, <a href="#page75">75</a></li> + <li>size and weight of, <a href="#page74">74</a></li> + <li>use as money, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Bibliography, <a href="#page191">191</a></li> +<li>Blending, <a href="#page133">133</a></li> +<li>Booth, N.P., <a href="#page75">75</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a></li> +<li>Botanical description, <a href="#page25">25</a></li> +<li>Bournville, <a href="#page128">128</a>, <a href="#page144">144</a>, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> +<li>Boxing chocolates, <a href="#image97">*173</a></li> +<li>BRAZIL, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page84">84</a>, + <a href="#page87">87</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> +<li>Breaking cacao pods, <a href="#page50">50</a>, <a href="#image26">*51</a></li> +<li>Brill, H.C., <a href="#page59">59</a></li> +<li>BRITISH GUIANA, <a href="#page84">84</a></li> +<li>BRITISH WEST AFRICA, <a href="#page185">185</a> + (<i>see also</i> <a href="#goldcoast">Gold Coast</a>)</li> +<li>Buying cacao, <a href="#page109">109</a></li> +<li>By-products, <a href="#page157">157</a>, <a href="#page161">161</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Cacao beans, (<i>see</i> <a href="#beans">beans</a>)</li> +<li><a name="cacaobutter" id="cacaobutter"></a> +Cacao butter, <a href="#page135">135</a>, <a href="#page157">157</a>, + <a href="#page159">159</a>, <a href="#page166">166</a>, <a href="#page168">168</a>, + <a href="#page171">171</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page178">178</a> + <ul> + <li>keeping properties, <a href="#page158">158</a></li> + <li>melting point, <a href="#page149">149</a>, <a href="#page158">158</a></li> + <li>pressing out of, <a href="#page135">135</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Cacao, cultivation, <a href="#page17">17</a>, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page116">116</a> + <ul> + <li>definition, <a href="#page2">2</a></li> + <li>explanation name, <a href="#page1">1</a></li> + <li>introduction into Europe, <a href="#page10">10</a></li> + <li>keeping properties, <a href="#page122">122</a></li> + <li>manufacturers' requirements, <a href="#page75">75</a></li> + <li>picker, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#image23">*46</a></li> + <li>preparations, popularity of, <a href="#page15">15</a></li> + <li>shell, (<i>see</i> <a href="#shell">shell</a>)</li> + </ul></li> +<li><i>Cacauatl</i>, <a href="#page1">1</a></li> +<li>Cadbury Bros., <a href="#page15">15</a>, <a href="#page154">154</a></li> +<li>Cadbury, Richard, <a href="#page16">16</a></li> +<li>Caffein, <a href="#page166">166</a>, <a href="#page168">168</a>, + <a href="#page172">172</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page178">178</a></li> +<li>Cailler & Co., <a href="#page154">154</a></li> +<li><i>Calabacillo</i>, <a href="#page23">23</a>, <a href="#image11">*27</a>, <a href="#page76">76</a></li> +<li>CAMEROON'S, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page91">91</a>, <a href="#page105">105</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>CARACAS, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page87">87</a></li> +<li>Carmody, Professor, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page41">41</a></li> +<li>CARUPANO, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page87">87</a></li> +<li>Catch crop, <a href="#page36">36</a></li> +<li>CEYLON, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, + <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#page70">70</a>, + <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a>, + <a href="#page114">114</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> +<li>Chittenden, Dr., <a href="#page52">52</a></li> +<li>Claying, <a href="#page70">70</a>, <a href="#image38">*71</a>, <a href="#page76">76</a>, + <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>Clearing the land, <a href="#image12">*29</a>, <a href="#page30">30</a></li> +<li>Clifford, Sir Hugh, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>Climate, cacao cultivation, <a href="#page17">17</a></li> +<li><i>Criollo</i>, <a href="#image11">*27</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, + <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page87">87</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a></li> +<li>Chocolate, <a href="#page176">176</a>, <a href="#page180">180</a> + <ul> + <li>ancient usage, <a href="#page10">10</a></li> + <li>covering recipe, <a href="#page150">150</a></li> + <li>covering, suggested legal definition, <a href="#page182">182</a></li> + <li>definition, <a href="#page3">3</a></li> + <li>derivation of word, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> + <li>fascination of, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> + <li>houses and clubs, <a href="#page12">12</a><a name="page208" id="page208"></a></li> + <li>powder, <a href="#page180">180</a></li> + <li>recipe, <a href="#page140">140</a></li> + <li>suggested legal definitions, <a href="#page181">181</a></li> + <li>sustaining value, <a href="#page174">174</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li><i>Chocolatl</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> +<li>Chupons, (<i>see</i> <a href="#suckers">suckers</a>)</li> +<li>Cocoa, <a href="#page168">168</a>, <a href="#page169">169</a> + <ul> + <li>definition, <a href="#page2">2</a></li> + <li>digestibility of, <a href="#page171">171</a></li> + <li>how to make, <a href="#page170">170</a></li> + <li>origin of word, <a href="#page3">3</a></li> + <li>powder, introduction of, <a href="#page15">15</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Coconuts, distinction between and cacao, <a href="#page3">3</a></li> +<li>Colouring beans, <a href="#page72">72</a></li> +<li>Colour, cacao bean, <a href="#page25">25</a>, <a href="#page77">77</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao butter, <a href="#page158">158</a></li> + <li>cacao flowers, <a href="#page22">22</a></li> + <li>cacao leaves, <a href="#page22">22</a></li> + <li>cacao pods, <a href="#page24">24</a>, <a href="#page48">48</a></li> + <li>changes during fermentation, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page59">59</a>, + <a href="#page61">61</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Columbus, <a href="#page7">7</a></li> +<li>Composition, (<i>see</i> <a href="#analyses">analyses</a>)</li> +<li>Compressor, chocolate, <a href="#page148">148</a></li> +<li>Conching, <a href="#page145">145</a></li> +<li>Conche machine, <a href="#image87">*147</a>, <a href="#image88">*148</a></li> +<li>CONGO, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Consumption, <a href="#page15">15</a>, <a href="#page184">184</a> + <ul> + <li>British Isles, <a href="#page184">184</a></li> + <li>World, <a href="#page186">186</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Contract labour, Cameroons, <a href="#page106">106</a> + <ul> + <li>San Thomé, <a href="#page103">103</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Cortes, <a href="#page7">7</a></li> +<li>Covering cremes, <a href="#image91">*151</a></li> +<li>CUBA, <a href="#page82">82</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Dancing, cacao beans, <a href="#page72">72</a></li> +<li>De Candolle, <a href="#page94">94</a></li> +<li>Decauville railways, <a href="#page52">52</a></li> +<li>DEMERARA, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li><a name="diseases" id="diseases"></a> +Diseases, cacao tree, <a href="#page43">43</a></li> +<li>DOMINICA, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>Drying, <a href="#page62">62</a>, <a href="#image31">*63</a>, <a href="#page64">64</a>, + <a href="#image32">*64</a>, <a href="#image33">*65</a>, <a href="#image35">*68</a>, + <a href="#image36">*69</a>, <a href="#image42">*85</a>, <a href="#image51">*98</a>, + <a href="#image58">*105</a></li> +<li>Dryers, artificial, <a href="#page66">66</a>, <a href="#image34">*67</a></li> +<li>Duty, <a href="#page13">13</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao beans, <a href="#page14">14</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> + <li>cacao butter, <a href="#page14">14</a></li> + <li>cacao shell, <a href="#page14">14</a></li> + </ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Earle, Dr. Gastineau, <a href="#page174">174</a></li> +<li>ECUADOR, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page84">84</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> +<li>Enrobing machine, <a href="#page152">152</a>, <a href="#image92">*152</a></li> +<li>Enzymes, <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a>, <a href="#page66">66</a></li> +<li>Exports, cacao butter, <a href="#page160">160</a> + <ul> + <li>Exports, beans, <a href="#page84">84</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Extracting beans from pod, <a href="#page50">50</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Faber, Dr. von, <a href="#page22">22</a></li> +<li>Faelli, Professor, <a href="#page164">164</a></li> +<li>Fat (<i>see</i> <a href="#cacaobutter">cacao butter</a>)</li> +<li>Fermentation, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + <ul> + <li>changes during, <a href="#page55">55</a></li> + <li>control of, <a href="#page63">63</a></li> + <li>good effects of, <a href="#page60">60</a></li> + <li>loss of weight, during, <a href="#page64">64</a></li> + <li>period of, <a href="#page52">52</a></li> + <li>temperature of, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page55">55</a>, + <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Fermenting boxes, <a href="#image28">*54</a>, <a href="#image30">*58</a></li> +<li>FERNANDO PO, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>Fickendey, Dr., <a href="#page55">55</a>, <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a></li> +<li>Flavouring chocolate, <a href="#page146">146</a></li> +<li>Flowers, <a href="#image7">*21</a>, <a href="#page22">22</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a> + <ul> + <li>percentage fruiting, <a href="#page74">74</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Food value, cacao bean, <a href="#page166">166</a> + <ul> + <li>chocolate, <a href="#page173">173</a>, <a href="#page176">176</a></li> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#page168">168</a></li> + <li>milk chocolate, <a href="#page178">178</a></li> + <li>old opinions, <a href="#page165">165</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li><i>Forastero</i>, <a href="#image11">*27</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>, + <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page77">77</a></li> +<li>Forster, J., <a href="#page171">171</a>, <a href="#page172">172</a></li> +<li>Freeman, W.G., <a href="#page34">34</a></li> +<li>FRENCH COLONIES, <a href="#page82">82</a></li> +<li>Fritsch, J., <a href="#page173">173</a></li> +<li>Fruit, cacao, <a href="#page21">21</a></li> +<li>Fry, J.S., & Sons, <a href="#page14">14</a>, <a href="#page15">15</a>, + <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a></li> +<li>Fry, Joseph, <a href="#page3">3</a>, <a href="#page13">13</a></li> +<li>Fungi, <a href="#page44">44</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Gage, Thomas, <a href="#page8">8</a>, <a href="#page10">10</a></li> +<li>Gathering, <a href="#page45">45</a>, <a href="#image24">*47</a>, <a href="#image25">*49</a>, + <a href="#image43">*85</a></li> +<li>Geographical distribution, <a href="#page18">18</a></li> +<li>Germ, cacao, <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#image75">*129</a>, <a href="#page131">131</a> + <ul> + <li>screens, <a href="#image76">*131</a></li> + <li>separation of, <a href="#page131">131</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Germination, prevention of, <a href="#page61">61</a></li> +<li><a name="goldcoast" id="goldcoast"></a> +GOLD COAST, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>, + <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a>, + <a href="#page94">94</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a> (<i>see also</i> <a href="#accra">Accra</a>) + <ul> + <li>native industry, <a href="#page94">94</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Gordon, W.J., <a href="#page10">10</a></li> +<li>Gouveia, Dr., <a href="#page105">105</a></li> +<li>Grafting and budding, <a href="#page34">34</a>, <a href="#page75">75</a></li> +<li>GRENADA, <a href="#page30">30</a>, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>, + <a href="#page76">76</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a>, + <a href="#page90">90</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Grinding, <a href="#page120">120</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a>, <a href="#image86">*143</a> + <ul> + <li>mill, cocoa, <a href="#image78">*133</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a>, + <a href="#image79">*135</a></li> + <li>machine, chocolate, <a href="#page140">140</a>, <a href="#image85">*142</a>, + <a href="#image86">*145</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Grousseau & Viconge, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> +<li><a name="guayaquil" id="guayaquil"></a> +GUAYAQUIL, <a href="#page32">32</a>, <a href="#page76">76</a>, + <a href="#page84">84</a>, <a href="#page109">109</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a> + (<i>see also</i> <a href="#arriba">Arriba</a> and <a href="#machala">Machala</a>)</li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>HAITI, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>Hart, J.H., <a href="#page34">34</a></li> +<li>Height, cacao tree, <a href="#page20">20</a>, <a href="#page36">36</a></li> +<li>Historicus, <a href="#page16">16</a></li> +<li>History, cocoa and chocolate, <a href="#page1">1</a><a name="page209" id="page209"></a></li> +<li>Home of cacao, <a href="#page5">5</a></li> +<li>Husk, (<i>see</i> <a href="#shell">shell</a>)</li> +<li>Hutchison, Dr., <a href="#page170">170</a>, <a href="#page175">175</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Illipe butter, <a href="#page159">159</a></li> +<li><i>Immortel, Bois</i>, <a href="#page37">37</a></li> +<li>Imports, cacao butter, <a href="#page160">160</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao bean, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Incas, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> +<li>Insect Pests, <a href="#page44">44</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>JAMAICA, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>JAVA, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page37">37</a>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, + <a href="#page54">54</a>, <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#page70">70</a>, + <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Knapp, A.W., <a href="#page75">75</a>, <a href="#page164">164</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>LAGOS, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>Leaves, cacao, <a href="#page22">22</a>, <a href="#image100">*187</a></li> +<li>Linnaeus, <a href="#page1">1</a></li> +<li>Linalool, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page125">125</a></li> +<li>Loew, Dr. O., <a href="#page55">55</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li><a name="machala" id="machala"></a> +MACHALA, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page84">84</a> + (<i>see also</i> <a href="#guayaquil">Guayaquil</a>)</li> +<li>MADAGASCAR, <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a></li> +<li>Manufacture, chocolate, <a href="#page140">140</a> + <ul> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#page134">134</a></li> + <li>early methods of, <a href="#image3">*9</a>, <a href="#page119">119</a>, + <a href="#image68">*120</a>, <a href="#image69">*121</a>, <a href="#page129">129</a></li> + <li>loss on, <a href="#page14">14</a></li> + <li>milk chocolate, <a href="#image94">*155</a>, <a href="#image99">*181</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Manufacturers' requirements, <a href="#page75">75</a></li> +<li>Manure, <a href="#page32">32</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao shell as, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Map, Africa, <a href="#image47">*92</a> + <ul> + <li>South America, <a href="#image45">*89</a></li> + <li>World, <a href="#image41">*83</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>MARACAIBO, <a href="#page87">87</a></li> +<li>Markets, cacao, <a href="#page107">107</a></li> +<li>Mass, <a href="#page134">134</a>, <a href="#page136">136</a></li> +<li>Mélangeur, <a href="#page140">140</a>, <a href="#image82">*141</a>, <a href="#page144">144</a></li> +<li>MEXICO, <a href="#page1">1</a>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page18">18</a></li> +<li>Milk chocolate, <a href="#page154">154</a>, <a href="#page178">178</a>, <a href="#page182">182</a> + <ul> + <li>suggested legal definition, <a href="#page182">182</a></li> + <li>recipe, <a href="#page155">155</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Montezuma, <a href="#page7">7</a></li> +<li>Mosses, cacao tree, <a href="#page22">22</a></li> +<li>Moulding chocolate, <a href="#page146">146</a></li> +<li>Mountmorres, Viscount, <a href="#page40">40</a></li> +<li>Mulching, <a href="#page32">32</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Neumann, Dr. R.O., <a href="#page171">171</a></li> +<li>Nib, <a href="#page15">15</a>, <a href="#page120">120</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a>, + <a href="#image75">*129</a>, <a href="#page130">130</a>, <a href="#page134">134</a> + <ul> + <li>percentage shell, <a href="#page133">133</a></li> + <li>yield of, <a href="#page15">15</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Nicholls, Dr. L., <a href="#page55">55</a></li> +<li>Nursery, cacao, <a href="#image14">*33</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Odour, cocoa, <a href="#page77">77</a>, <a href="#page146">146</a>, <a href="#page161">161</a> + <ul> + <li>fermentation, <a href="#page60">60</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Orellano, <a href="#page6">6</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Packing chocolates, <a href="#image98">*177</a> + <ul> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#page138">138</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>PARA, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page87">87</a></li> +<li>Perrot, Professor, <a href="#page60">60</a></li> +<li>PERU, <a href="#page8">8</a></li> +<li>Pests (<i>see</i> <a href="#diseases">diseases</a>)</li> +<li>Peter, M.D., <a href="#page154">154</a></li> +<li>Picker, cacao, <a href="#page46">46</a>, <a href="#image23">*46</a></li> +<li>PHILIPPINES, <a href="#page42">42</a></li> +<li>Plantation, cacao, <a href="#page27">27</a>, <a href="#image57">*104</a></li> +<li>Planting, <a href="#page32">32</a>, <a href="#image15">*34</a>, <a href="#page37">37</a></li> +<li>Pod, <a href="#image1">*2</a>, <a href="#page5">5</a>, <a href="#page23">23</a>, <a href="#image8">*23</a>, + <a href="#image10">*25</a>, <a href="#image11">*28</a>, <a href="#image100">*187</a> + <ul> + <li>picking of, <a href="#page46">46</a></li> + <li>yield of cacao, <a href="#page74">74</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Polishing beans, <a href="#page72">72</a>, <a href="#page78">78</a></li> +<li>Pollination, cacao flowers, <a href="#page22">22</a></li> +<li>Press cake, <a href="#page138">138</a> + <ul> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#image80">*136</a>, <a href="#image81">*137</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Pressing cocoa, <a href="#page136">136</a></li> +<li>Preuss, Dr. Paul, <a href="#page66">66</a>, <a href="#page70">70</a></li> +<li>Preyer, Dr. Axel, <a href="#page55">55</a></li> +<li>Price, cacao, <a href="#page86">86</a>, <a href="#page96">96</a>, + <a href="#page112">112</a>, <a href="#image64">*113</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao butter, <a href="#page160">160</a></li> + <li>cacao shell, <a href="#page164">164</a></li> + <li>chocolate, <a href="#page13">13</a></li> + <li>theobromine, <a href="#page172">172</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>PRINCIPE, <a href="#page100">100</a></li> +<li>Production of cacao, Africa, <a href="#page91">91</a> + <ul> + <li>British Possessions, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page183">183</a></li> + <li>British West Africa, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> + <li>British West Indies, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> + <li>Gold Coast, <a href="#page94">94</a></li> + <li>increasing of, <a href="#page75">75</a></li> + <li>San Thomé and Principe, <a href="#page100">100</a></li> + <li>shell, <a href="#page161">161</a></li> + <li>South America, <a href="#page84">84</a></li> + <li>West Indies, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> + <li>World, <a href="#image40">*80</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Pruning, <a href="#page40">40</a></li> +<li>Pulp, cacao, <a href="#image9">*24</a>, <a href="#page25">25</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, + <a href="#page55">55</a>, <a href="#page60">60</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Rainfall, cacao cultivation, <a href="#page18">18</a></li> +<li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, <a href="#page6">6</a></li> +<li>Refining machine, <a href="#image84">*142</a></li> +<li>Research Association, <a href="#pagevi">vi</a></li> +<li>Revis and Bolton, <a href="#page128">128</a></li> +<li>Richelieu, Cardinal, <a href="#page11">11</a></li> +<li>Roaster, <a href="#image73">*126</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a><a name="page210" id="page210"></a></li> +<li>Roasting, <a href="#page119">119</a>, <a href="#page125">125</a> + <ul> + <li>loss on, <a href="#page127">127</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Rocking tables, <a href="#page149">149</a>, <a href="#image90">*149</a></li> +<li>Root system, <a href="#image13">*31</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Sack, Dr., <a href="#page55">55</a>, <a href="#page66">66</a></li> +<li>Sales of cacao, <a href="#page111">111</a></li> +<li>SAMANA, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>SAMOA, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>SANCHEZ, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>SAN DOMINGO, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li><i>Sangre-tora,</i> <a href="#page24">24</a></li> +<li>SAN THOME, <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page54">54</a>, + <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a>, <a href="#page100">100</a>, + <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Schulte im Hofe, Dr. A., <a href="#page55">55</a></li> +<li>Seed, selection of, <a href="#page32">32</a></li> +<li>Shade, <a href="#page36">36</a>, <a href="#image17">*37</a>, <a href="#image18">*38</a>, + <a href="#image19">*39</a>, <a href="#page90">90</a>, <a href="#page102">102</a></li> +<li>Shaking table, chocolate, <a href="#page149">149</a>, <a href="#image90">*149</a></li> +<li><a name="shell" id="shell"></a> +Shell, cacao, <a href="#image75">*129</a>, <a href="#page161">161</a>, <a href="#page163">163</a> + <ul> + <li>butter, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> + <li>coffee substitute, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> + <li>as feeding stuff, <a href="#page162">162</a>, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> + <li>in finished cocoa, <a href="#page180">180</a></li> + <li>food units, <a href="#page163">163</a></li> + <li>fuel, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> + <li>manure, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> + <li>removal of, <a href="#page120">120</a>, <a href="#page128">128</a></li> + <li><a name="shellseparating" id="shellseparating"></a> + separating machine, <a href="#page132">132</a>, <a href="#image77">*132</a></li> + <li>tea from, <a href="#page161">161</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Sherman, H.C, <a href="#page176">176</a></li> +<li>Sieving cocoa, <a href="#page138">138</a></li> +<li>Size, bean, <a href="#page78">78</a> + <ul> + <li>cocoa particles, <a href="#page138">138</a></li> + <li>sugar particles, <a href="#page144">144</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Smalls, <a href="#page132">132</a></li> +<li>Smetham, A., <a href="#page163">163</a>, <a href="#page167">167</a></li> +<li>Smith, H. Hamel, <a href="#page55">55</a></li> +<li>Snyder, Harry, <a href="#page176">176</a></li> +<li>Soil, <a href="#page30">30</a></li> +<li>Soluble cocoa, <a href="#page168">168</a>, <a href="#page172">172</a></li> +<li>Sorting beans, <a href="#image39">*73</a>, <a href="#image44">*86</a>, <a href="#page123">123</a></li> +<li>Sorting-cleaning machine, <a href="#page124">124</a>, <a href="#image71">*124</a>, + <a href="#image72">*125</a></li> +<li>Stimulating properties, <a href="#page60">60</a>, <a href="#page172">172</a></li> +<li>ST. LUCIA, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>Storing cacao, <a href="#page122">122</a>, <a href="#image70">*123</a></li> +<li>ST. VINCENT, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li><a name="suckers" id="suckers"></a> +Suckers, <a href="#page40">40</a>, <a href="#image20">*41</a></li> +<li>Surf boats, <a href="#image61">*108</a></li> +<li>SURINAM, <a href="#page30">30</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page84">84</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +<li>Sweat boxes, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#image27">*53</a></li> +<li>Sweatings, <a href="#page57">57</a>, <a href="#page63">63</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Tannin, <a href="#page59">59</a></li> +<li>Tap root, <a href="#image13">*31</a>, <a href="#page32">32</a></li> +<li>Taste, fermentation, <a href="#page59">59</a></li> +<li>Temperature, cacao cultivation, <a href="#page18">18</a> + <ul> + <li>covering chocolate, <a href="#page151">151</a></li> + <li>fermentation, <a href="#page53">53</a>, <a href="#page55">55</a>, + <a href="#page59">59</a>, <a href="#page61">61</a></li> + <li>germination, <a href="#page61">61</a></li> + <li>chocolate moulding, <a href="#page149">149</a></li> + <li>bean roasting, <a href="#page128">128</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>Tempering machine, <a href="#page149">149</a></li> +<li><i>Theobroma cacao</i>, <a href="#page1">1</a>, <a href="#page26">26</a></li> +<li>Theobromine, in bean, <a href="#page166">166</a> + <ul> + <li>chocolate, <a href="#page176">176</a></li> + <li>cocoa, <a href="#page168">168</a>, <a href="#page172">172</a></li> + <li>fermentation, <a href="#page60">60</a></li> + <li>milk chocolate, <a href="#page178">178</a></li> + <li>shell, <a href="#page162">162</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>TOGO, <a href="#page82">82</a>, <a href="#page91">91</a></li> +<li>Transport of cacao, <a href="#image29">*56</a>, <a href="#image48">*93</a>, <a href="#image49">*95</a>, + <a href="#page96">96</a>, <a href="#image50">*97</a>, <a href="#image52">*99</a>, <a href="#image53">*100</a>, + <a href="#image54">*101</a>, <a href="#image55">*102</a>, <a href="#image56">*103</a>, <a href="#image59">*106</a>, + <a href="#page107">107</a>, <a href="#image62">*108</a>; <a href="#image63">*110</a></li> +<li>Tree, cacao, <a href="#page19">19</a>, <a href="#image5">*19</a>, <a href="#image7">*20</a> + <ul> + <li>growth, <a href="#page40">40</a></li> + <li>yield of, <a href="#page74">74</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>TRINIDAD, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page30">30</a>, <a href="#page34">34</a>, + <a href="#page37">37</a>, <a href="#page41">41</a>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, <a href="#page52">52</a>, + <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#page70">70</a>, <a href="#page72">72</a>, <a href="#page74">74</a>, + <a href="#page75">75</a>, <a href="#page76">76</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page88">88</a>, <a href="#page103">103</a>, <a href="#page114">114</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Van Houten, C.J., <a href="#page15">15</a></li> +<li>Varieties of cacao, <a href="#page26">26</a></li> +<li>Vasmer, Theo., <a href="#page183">183</a>, <a href="#page186">186</a></li> +<li>VENEZUELA, <a href="#page18">18</a>, <a href="#page70">70</a>, + <a href="#page76">76</a>, <a href="#page81">81</a>, <a href="#page82">82</a>, + <a href="#page84">84</a>, <a href="#page106">106</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Washing cacao beans, <a href="#page68">68</a>, <a href="#image37">*70</a>, + <a href="#page78">78</a>, <a href="#page107">107</a></li> +<li>Watt, Sir George, <a href="#page50">50</a></li> +<li>Weight, bag of cacao, <a href="#page109">109</a> + <ul> + <li>loss on drying, <a href="#page64">64</a></li> + <li>loss on fermentation, <a href="#page64">64</a></li> + <li>loss on roasting, <a href="#page128">128</a></li> + </ul></li> +<li>WEST INDIES, <a href="#page88">88</a></li> +<li>WEST INDIES, BRITISH, <a href="#page88">88</a>, <a href="#page185">185</a></li> +<li>Wind-screen trees, <a href="#page30">30</a></li> +<li>Winnowing machine (<i>see</i> <a href="#shellseparating">shell separating machine</a>)</li> +<li>Whisk, chocolate, <a href="#image2">*6</a>, <a href="#image96">*170</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Yeasts, fermenting, <a href="#page57">57</a></li> +<li>Yield, cacao pod, <a href="#page74">74</a> + <ul> + <li>cacao tree, <a href="#page74">74</a></li> + <li>per acre, <a href="#page74">74</a>, <a href="#page103">103</a></li> + </ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul> +<li>Zipperer, P., <a href="#page149">149</a>, <a href="#page164">164</a></li> +</ul> + +<hr /> + +<div class="centre"> +<p> +THE WESTMINSTER PRESS<br /> +HARROW ROAD<br /> +LONDON +</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cocoa and Chocolate, by Arthur W. 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