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diff --git a/18931.txt b/18931.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..810f6d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/18931.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11350 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Archeological Investigations, by Gerard Fowke + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Archeological Investigations + Bureau of American Ethnology, Bulletin 76 + +Author: Gerard Fowke + +Release Date: July 28, 2006 [EBook #18931] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Jeannie Howse, Alicia Williams, +Bruce Albrecht and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from +images generously made available by the Bibliotheque +nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + + + + * * * * * + + +--------------------------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation matches the original document. | + | | + | This e-text contains characters with less common diacritics, | + | non-ascii diacritical marks represented as follows: | + | [vc] = c with a caron above | + | [VC] = C with a caron above | + | [VS] = S with a caron above | + | [)e] = e with an accent breve above | + | [=o] = o with a macron above | + | | + | Obvious typographical errors have been corrected in this | + | text. For a complete list, please see the bottom of this | + | document. | + | | + +--------------------------------------------------------------+ + + * * * * * + + + + +SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION +BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY +BULLETIN 76 + +ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS + + + I. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN THE OZARK REGION + OF CENTRAL MISSOURI + II. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN OTHER STATES + III. EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER + BLUFFS IN KANSAS AND NEBRASKA + IV. ABORIGINAL HOUSE MOUNDS + V. ARCHEOLOGICAL WORK IN HAWAII + + +BY +GERARD FOWKE + + +WASHINGTON +GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE +1922 + + + + +LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL + + + SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, + BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY, + _Washington, D.C., February 17, 1920._ + + SIR: I have the honor to transmit the accompanying manuscript, + entitled "Archeological Investigations," by Gerard Fowke, and to + recommend its publication, subject to your approval, as a + bulletin of this bureau. + + Very respectfully, + J. WALTER FEWKES, + _Chief._ + + DR. CHARLES D. WALCOTT, + _Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution._ + + + + +CONTENTS + +I. Cave Explorations in the Ozark Region of Central Missouri + + Page +Introduction 13 +The Upper Current River 18 +Shannon County 18 + Bat Cave 18 + Blue Spring, or Fishing Cave 18 + Welch's Cave 18 + Big Creek Cave 18 +Texas County 19 + Smith Caves 19 + Saltpeter Cave 19 +Dent County 20 + Mammoth Cave 20 + Guthoerl Cave 20 + Short Bend Cave 20 + Money Cave 21 + Saltpeter Cave 21 + Watson, Twin, or Onyx Caves 22 + House mounds 22 +Phelps County 22 + Bates Cave 22 + Another "Bates Cave" 23 + Renaud Cave 23 + Marsh Caves 23 + Wild-hog Cave 23 + Shelters 24 + Phelps Cave 24 + "Key Rocks" 24 + Jones Cave 24 + Yancy Mills Cave 24 + Lane Mound 24 + Cairns on Lost Hill, at mouth of Gourd Creek 24 + Exploration of the Gourd Creek Cave 28 + Onyx Cave 34 + Goat Bluff Cave 35 + Cairns at Sugar Tree Camp 40 + Tick Creek Cave 41 + Cave in Pool Hollow 41 + House mounds near Rolla 41 + House mounds near Dillon 42 + House mounds near St. James 42 +Pulaski County 42 + McWilliams Cave 42 + Davis Caves 42 + Berry Cave 43 + Maxey Cave 43 + Yoark Cave 43 + Graves at Laughlin's 44 + Kerr Cave 44 + Sell Cave 45 + Phillips Cave 51 + Bell's Cave 51 + Camp-ground Cave 51 + Bucher Cave 51 + Graves near McKennan's 52 + Roubidoux Cave 52 + Richland Cave 52 + Rollins Caves 52 + Mix Cave 53 + Double Cave 54 + Railroad Cave 55 + Bat, or Page, Cave 55 + Tunnel Cave 56 + Brooks Cave 56 + Riddle Cave 56 + Lane's Cave 56 + Dry Creek Cave 56 + House mounds 56 + Riden's Cave 57 + Saltpeter Cave 57 + Miller's Cave 57 + Ramsey's Cave 81 + Graham Cave 83 + Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave 83 + Woodland Hollow Cave 84 + Walled graves at Devil's Elbow 84 + Cairns on Helm's farm 87 + Ash Cave 89 + Clemmens Creek Cave 89 +Camden County 89 + Along the Niangua River 89 + A fossil cave 91 +Miller County 91 + Wright Cave 92 + Wilson Cave 94 + Bagnell Cave 94 + Bode Cave 94 + Luckenhoff Cave 94 + Jurggenmeyer Cave 94 + Daerhoff Cave 95 + Cave near mouth of Tavern Creek 95 + Bat Cave 95 + Grave at mouth of Saline Creek 95 + Stark's Cave 96 + House mounds 96 + Cairns 96 +Maries County 96 + Indian Ford Cave 96 + Lackaye's Bluff Cave 97 + Hurricane Bluff Cave 97 + Stratman Cave 98 +Osage County 98 + River Cave 98 + Rock-shelter 98 + Steuffer Cave 99 + Cairns 99 + House mounds 99 + "Indian Fort" 99 +Cole County 100 + Natural Bridge Cave 100 +Morgan County 100 + Speers Cave 100 + House mounds 100 + +II. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN OTHER STATES + +Introduction 101 +Indiana 102 + Lawrence County 102 + Martin County 102 + Orange County 106 + Crawford County 107 + Harrison County 111 +Illinois 111 + Monroe County 111 +Kentucky 112 + Hardin County 112 + Hart County 112 + Edmonson County 115 + Warren County 118 + Barren County 119 + Monroe County 120 + Logan County 122 + Todd County 122 +Tennessee 123 + Montgomery County 123 + Sullivan County 124 + Bledsoe County 128 + Sequatchie County 130 + Grundy County 131 + Franklin County 131 + Marion County 132 + Hamilton County 133 +Alabama 133 + Lauderdale County 133 + Colbert County 134 + Jackson County 135 + Dekalb County 137 + Marshall County 139 + +III. EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER BLUFFS IN KANSAS + AND NEBRASKA + +Vicinity of White Cloud, Kansas 151 + Iowa Point 152 + Near the mouth of the Nemaha River 152 +Vicinity of Troy, Kansas 153 + Mouth of Mosquito Creek 153 +Rulo, Nebraska 154 +Near Howe, Nebraska 155 +Peru, Nebraska 156 +Papillion, Nebraska 156 +Vicinity of Omaha, Nebraska 156 + Long's Hill 157 + +IV. ABORIGINAL HORSE MOUNDS + +New Madrid County 166 +St. Francois County 166 + +V. ARCHAEOLOGICAL WORK IN HAWAII + +Introduction 178 +Molokai Island 179 + The Rain Heiau 180 + The sacrifice stones 181 +Hawaii Island 182 + Kilauea 183 + Waimea 183 + Quarry on Mauna Kea 183 + Kawaihae 183 + East Point district 184 + Napoopoo 184 + Honaunau 184 + Keauhou 185 + Mookini 185 + Laupahoehoe 187 +Maui Island 188 + Kaupo, or Mokulau 188 + Wailuku 188 + Waihee 189 + Burial places 190 + In the Iao Valley 191 +Kauai Island 191 + Lihue 192 + Wailua 192 + Dune burials 193 + Waimea 194 +Conclusions 194 +Index 197 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +PLATES + + 1. a, Cave on Big Piney River, Pulaski County, Mo. + b, Cave on Big Piney River, Texas County, Mo. 12 + + 2. a, Bluff at Mouth of Spring Creek, Pulaski County, + Mo. b, Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave, Pulaski + County, Mo. 12 + + 3. Map of area examined 18 + + 4. Bone and antler implements from Gourd Creek Cave, + Phelps County, Mo. 34 + + 5. Shell and flint objects from Gourd Creek Cave 34 + + 6. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave, Phelps County, Mo. 38 + + 7. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + + 8. Skull from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + + 9. Skull of child from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + +10. Flints from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + +11. Bone and antler implements from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + +12. Bone and antler implements from Goat Bluff Cave 38 + +13. a, Cairn 6 miles north of Arlington, Mo. b, Walled + grave 6 miles north of Arlington, Mo. 38 + +14. Cairns on Roubidoux Creek, 6 miles from Waynesville, + Mo. 46 + +15. Flints from Sell Cave, near Waynesville, Mo. 46 + +16. Objects from Sell Cave. a, Pestles or grinding + stones; b, celt, pottery disks, paint stones, and + skiver 46 + +17. Three skulls from Pulaski County, Mo. a, b, Skull + from Sell Cave; c, d, skull from Bell's Cave, near + Waynesville; e, f, skull from Miller's Cave 46 + +18. Teeth from Sell Cave and other caves, showing manner + and amount of wear 48 + +19. Teeth from Sell Cave and other caves, showing manner + and amount of wear 48 + +20. a, b, Skull from Miller's Cave, Pulaski County, + Mo.; c, part of skull of child from Miller's Cave 68 + +21. Skull of young woman from Miller's Cave 68 + +22. Skull of child from Miller's Cave 72 + +23. Diseased tibia of adult and diseased bones of child + from Miller's Cave 72 + +24. Skull of child from Miller's Cave 72 + +25. Cache of flints from ash bed in Miller's Cave 72 + +26. Flints from Miller's Cave 76 + +27. Flints from Miller's Cave 76 + +28. Flints from Miller's Cave 76 + +29. Axes and pestles from Miller's Cave 76 + +30. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +31. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +32. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +33. Bone implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +34. Bone and antler implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +35. Antler implements from Miller's Cave 78 + +36. Skivers, showing stages of manufacture, from Miller's + Cave 78 + +37. Shell spoons, pottery disks, and broken spoon made of + a deer's skull, from Miller's Cave 78 + +38. a, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking west; + b, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking north; c, + Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking south 180 + +39. a, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking south; b, + platform in Heiau A, looking southeast; c, paved way + in Heiau A, looking southwest 180 + +40. a, Paved way in Heiau A, looking north; b, + fireplace in Heiau A 180 + +41. a, Heiau B, on Molokai Island, looking northwest; + b, Heiau B, showing stone-paved interior, looking + northeast 180 + +42. a, The "Rain Heiau," Molokai Island, looking west; + b, The "Rain Heiau," looking south 180 + +43. a, The "Rain Heiau," looking north; b, The "Rain + Heiau," looking southwest 180 + +44. a, The "Sacrifice Stones," on Molokai Island, + looking southwest; b, The "Sacrifice Stones," + looking west 180 + +45. a, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking northwest; b, + the "Sacrifice Stones," looking south 180 + + +TEXT FIGURES + +1. Outline of Cairn (1), at Lost Hill, Phelps County, Mo. 26 + +2. Outline of Cairn (2), at Lost Hill, Phelps County, Mo. 26 + +3. Pipe from Cairn (2) 27 + +4. Outline of Cairn (3), Lost Hill 28 + +5. Fragment of glass bottle from Goat Bluff Cave 37 + +6. Pot from Goat Bluff Cave 39 + +7. Grooved ax from Goat Bluff Cave 40 + +8. Perforated object of antler from Sell Cave 48 + +9. Rubbing or polishing stone from Sell Cave 48 + +10. Flints from Sell Cave 49 + +11. Incised figure in sandstone near Miller's Cave 61 + +12. Incised figures in sandstone near Miller's Cave 61 + +13. Plan of Miller's Cave 62 + +14. Clay pipe from Miller's Cave 69 + +15. Perforated bone object from Miller's Cave 79 + +16. Adz or gouge of chert from Miller's Cave 79 + +17. Clay pipe from Miller's Cave 80 + +18. Columella bead from Cairn (4), Devil's Elbow 87 + +19. Columella bead from Cairn (5), Devil's Elbow 87 + +20. Plan of Fossil Cave 92 + +21. Section of Fossil Cave 92 + +22. Perforator and knife from Wright Cave 93 + +23. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 18 feet 144 + +24. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 20 feet 144 + +25. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 22 feet 144 + +26. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 26 feet 145 + +27. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 28 feet 145 + +28. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 30 feet 145 + +29. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 351/2 feet 146 + +30. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 471/2 feet 146 + +31. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 60 feet 146 + +32. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 70 feet 147 + +33. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 90 feet 147 + +34. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 93 feet 148 + +35. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 175 feet 149 + +36. Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 180 feet 149 + +37. Plan of House Mound in St. Francois County, Mo. 168 + + + * * * * * + + + [Illustration: PLATE 1 a, Cave on Big Piney River, three miles + east of Big Piney, Pulaski County. Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. + Heuer, St. Louis)] + + [Illustration: PLATE 1 b, Cave on Big Piney River, in Texas + County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)] + + [Illustration: PLATE 2 a, Bluff at mouth of Spring Creek, Pulaski + County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)] + + [Illustration: PLATE 2 b, Pillman's, or Spring Creek, Cave, + Pulaski County, Mo. (Courtesy of Dr. P.J. Heuer, St. Louis)] + + + + +ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS + +I. EXPLORATIONS IN THE OZARK REGION OF CENTRAL MISSOURI + +BY GERARD FOWKE + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +The geological structure of that portion of southern Missouri which +lies to the westward of the Archean rocks near the Mississippi River +is peculiarly suitable for the development of caverns. The Ozark +uplift produced far-reaching undulations, and there seem to have been +no violent disturbances which would result in extensive faults, +considerable displacements, or a pronounced inclination of the strata. +Jointing and pressure cleavage, however, gave rise to innumerable +crevices in the limestone, through which percolating surface water +found its way into all parts of the formations. By its solvent power +this water gradually enlarged the crevices into passages which, +multiplying and uniting, drained constantly increasing areas until +they formed subterranean streams with a perpetual flow. Thus began +caverns; and these grew in depth, width, and height as the rock was +eroded and dissolved. Tributary crevices were subject to the same +action; and there was finally created by each of these water systems a +network of cavities whose ramifications sometimes extend throughout +several townships. In time, sections of the roof, here and there, +became so thin from the combined erosion taking place both above and +below as to be unable to sustain their own weight; the overlying +strata fell into the cave, and the volume of water flowing through it +was augmented by drainage which had previously been disposed of on the +surface. All this had to seek an outlet somewhere, except in those +rare instances where it maintains its downward course until, below the +level of any open stream it can reach, it encounters an impervious +stratum and must lose itself in the deep rocks. Usually, however, it +emerges in the face of a bluff or on the side of a hill; and the +opening becomes "the mouth of a cave." Occasionally, in such +situations, the water continues to flow out; but usually it finds a +way to reach a lower level, and so the cave in time becomes dry +except for such water as seeps through from the earth immediately +above. Sometimes, too, the point of discharge is at or perhaps +somewhat below the level of a stream into which it passes; in the +Ozarks are numerous very large springs or fountains which by inverted +siphon or artesian action are forced up from subterranean streams +lying at a greater depth. + +Few large caverns have the floor entirely dry, even when they are well +above the bottom of the valley. Deposits in the front portion may be +dry, perhaps dusty on the surface; but toward the interior moisture +usually accumulates until they are muddy or until the water stands in +pools or puddles. When this is the case there is sometimes a little +stream making its way to the front through a channel which it has cut; +or seepage may dampen, possibly saturate, the lowermost portions of +the otherwise dry earth. These details are controlled principally by +the direction and degree of slopes and by side openings which allow +more or less of the water to escape at some part of its journey. + +When a cavern is fairly lighted and has a dry floor, whether of rock +or earth, it forms an excellent abode for a small community unable or +not disposed to construct shelters more comfortable or convenient; and +there is abundant evidence that many caves in the Ozarks were utilized +as habitations by the aborigines. It must be remembered, however, that +in the centuries which have elapsed since hunters or permanent +occupants first entered this region, many superficial changes have +taken place, not only about the entrances but within the caverns as +well. Very probably these alterations have converted caves once +occupied into places which at present are quite unfit for such +purposes. Talus has accumulated in front of the openings or partially +filled the front chambers; it may well be the case that this conceals +much refuse. Caves which, from similar deposits, are now difficult to +enter and dark to the doorway, may have been open and convenient. +Furthermore, caves with wet or muddy bottoms may owe such condition to +causes which have recently come into operation; or if they always +contained more or less water, the primitive dwellers could in many +cases have overcome such disadvantages by digging drains which have +since become choked and obliterated. Very small cavities, such as deep +rock-shelters; or caverns with a great thickness of earth on the +floors, now showing no trace of remains; or those with entrances so +small that it is necessary to crawl through--any of these, if cleared +out to the bottoms, might disclose material dating back to very early +times. + +It might seem that the air in a cave constantly occupied would grow +stale and close; while smoke from the fires would in time become +annoying. But Indians used for fuel only dry wood and bark, the smoke +from which would be a negligible factor. The varying pressure of the +atmosphere outside creates a current of air in or out which is usually +imperceptible but which penetrates to the deepest recesses and insures +ventilation. + +In view of the very primitive conditions under which cave dwellers +lived, as denoted by the artificial objects which they left, and the +low mentality indicated by the skulls, Mr. W.H. Holmes suggests that a +careful and extended study of these abodes may disclose a culture +lower than that prevailing among out-door dwellers in the same +localities. As no effort would be required to secure warmth and +shelter, and as food was abundant and easily procured, the people may +never have advanced from savagery, or may have retrograded. + +None of these possibilities are taken into account when reporting upon +the caves described in the following pages; the information offered is +based entirely upon the present appearance of the places mentioned. To +attempt more would be merely offering guesses. + +If "Cave Man"--using this term to designate the predecessor of any +race or tribe known to history--ever existed in the Mississippi Valley +he would not find in any part of it natural features better adapted +for his requirements than in the Ozark hills. But, so far, not the +slightest trace of his presence has been revealed. Products of human +industry have been reported as occurring at great depths under other +conditions, even at the bottom of the loess; though in all such cases +there is some uncertainty as to the correctness of the observations. +No similar reports have been made in regard to any cave yet explored. +On the contrary, whatever may be the depth of the deposit containing +them, the artificial objects exhumed are uniform in character from top +to bottom; the specimens found on the clay or solid rock floor are of +the same class as those barely covered by the surface earth. Moreover, +when they cease to appear they cease absolutely; the rock was swept +bare, or the clay was deposited, by the stream to which the cave owes +its existence, and each is a part of the original formation. In these +circumstances habitation would be out of the question. + +By careful search in the caves and rock-shelters of which the Indian +known to history availed himself, extensive and interesting museum +collections can be made. To find an earlier man it will be necessary +to investigate caverns which he found suitable for occupancy and in +which the accumulation of detritus, from whatever source, has been +sufficient to cover his remains so deeply that they can not be +confused with those of a later period; and it may be necessary, also, +to discover with them bones of extinct animals. Should such a place +exist, it is extremely probable that there will be no outward +indication of the fact. + +No examination of a cavern is complete or is to be deemed satisfactory +unless a depth is reached where the geological deposits are +undeniably of such age as to antedate the possible appearance of man +upon the scene. This is not assured until the excavation has reached +the original floor, which may be either the bed-rock or the clay left +by the eroding stream when its volume had become so diminished from +any cause that it was no longer able to keep its channel cleared out. +Unless a cave is almost perfectly dry--and few of them are--the bottom +can not be reached until all standing or soil water has been drained +off. + +Notwithstanding the most explicit directions, a stranger without a +guide is frequently unable to find a cave unless its position is +plainly visible from some well-defined spot. The winding valleys and +the multitude of ravines sometimes bewilder even those living among +them. + +A few definitions of terms, or explanations of statements in the +report, may prevent misunderstanding. + +"Refuse," "signs," "indications," "evidence," referring to habitation +or occupancy, mean mussel shells; animal bones; burned or worked +stones; broken pottery; wrought objects of bone or shell; flint +implements, chips, or spalls; ashes; charcoal; in short, the material +ordinarily found on the site of an Indian village, some or all of +which are to be seen where the caverns have been used for shelter. + +"Daylight" or "in daylight" is the greatest distance within the +entrance to a cavern at which common print may be easily read or the +nature of small objects lying on the floor determined with certainty. + +"Drip rock," "cave rock," or "cave formation" are general terms +including stalactite or stalagmite; also deposits of similar origin +coating the walls. Not all of these may be present in the same cavern. + +"Roof dust" is a substance, literally "lime sand," produced by the +superficial disintegration of the roof or walls. This process is +greatly accelerated where lichen or rock moss has gained a root hold +on the stone. Roof dust in a dry cavern is the equivalent of +stalagmite in a wet one. + +"Cave earth" is the loose, loamy material usually found in the front +chambers of large caverns. It is made up of roof dust, sand, and silt +washed from the interior, outside dust and vegetable matter blown in +by the wind, with minute amounts of clay or soil carried in by +animals. + +"Gravel" in a cavern is seldom noticeably water-worn, but is the +angular debris resulting from the continued fragmentation of chert +nodules released by erosion of the limestone. + +A "rock shelter," or "shelter cave," is a room or recess formed by +atmospheric erosion in the face, usually at the base, of a cliff. The +depth from front to back, under the projecting or overhanging +unremoved bedrock above, is generally much less than the length as +measured along the face of the bluff. They are nearly always dry, more +or less protected from storms, and when of suitable size and in a +favorable location were much used as camping places. They are rather +rare in limestone formations but frequent in massive sandstone. + +"House mounds" are small, low piles of earth, similar in all respects +to those so numerous in southeastern Missouri and southward. Although +they are usually described as "standing in regular rows," they are in +fact irregularly placed, though seldom as much as 100 feet apart in +the same group. + +Measurements of caverns explored were made with a tape line; others +were estimated by stepping, or in the case of elevations, by sighting, +consequently are only approximate, but the figures given will in no +case exceed the actual distance. + +Specimens reported from caves not excavated were found on the floor, +sometimes in situations where no addition of cave earth had taken +place since the objects were left there; at other times where they +were brought from below by burrowing animals; and, again, where they +are exposed in the bed or banks of a drainage channel. + +In no cave so far examined has any evidence been found to show that +the aborigines occupied any part of it beyond such point as was +adequately illuminated from the entrance. No doubt they may, at times, +have retreated beyond the reach of daylight and been compelled to +dispel the darkness by means of fires; but such instances were rare +and of short duration. Statements are sometimes made that specimens, +usually flint implements, have been found far, possibly several +hundred yards, within the cavern. Such objects do not predicate +habitation at that distance; primitive explorers may have lost them. +It has been pointed out, too, by Mr. De Lancey Gill, that a wounded +animal, taking refuge in a cave and instinctively seeking its dark +recesses, may carry in an arrow or spear whose point remains when the +shaft has decayed. In the case of a large mammal, such as a bear or a +panther, a number of arrow or spear heads might be carried in and be +found close together long after the death of the victim. + +Cairns or stone-covered graves are of common occurrence; but with a +single exception the rocks in all those visited or reported are more +or less displaced. This is due to hunters digging out small wild +animals making a den in them; to treasure seekers who believe that +"money" is concealed in them; and most of all to persons who are +curious to know "what there is in there." + +The record of the investigations will be given by counties, beginning +at the south and proceeding northward. Descriptions and notes of the +sites mentioned will follow as closely as possible the same +arrangement. A number following the name of a cave refers to its +position as denoted by a corresponding number on the map (pl. 3). + + +THE UPPER CURRENT RIVER + +A number of well-known caverns, some of them quite extensive, exist +along the head streams forming the Current River. As originally +planned, the work included a thorough survey of this region, but owing +to various causes it was only partially examined. Several large caves +were reported as being along the river and its tributaries farther +down than these researches were carried. Notable is one opposite the +mouth of Sinkin Creek, which was described as dry and very large +within; but it was also stated that it can only be entered through a +sink hole with the aid of a ladder or pole 30 feet long. Such a cave +is not likely to have been used for shelter. Others, as they were +described, seemed equally unfitted for this purpose. The only +exception to this general rule is one in Spring Valley south of the +Current and east of Sinkin. + +Such as were visited will be described in their geographical order. + + * * * + + +SHANNON COUNTY + +BAT CAVE (1) + +This cavern is 6 miles above the mouth of Sinkin. It is near the top +of a cliff, fully 300 feet above the river. The entrance is 30 feet +wide and 10 feet high; within is a level earth-covered floor. Being +very difficult of access, it was probably never inhabited. + + +BLUE SPRING, OR FISHING CAVE (1) + +This is situated on the Terrell land, 4 miles below Akers post office. +The entrance, 10 feet high and 20 feet wide, is almost at low-water +level; the river at flood height rises fully 20 feet above its top. +Fifty feet within is a spring or well, 20 feet across, whose bottom is +beyond the reach of a line 60 feet long. It is said that eyeless fish +of 3 pounds weight have been caught in this "Blue Spring." + + +WELCH'S CAVE + +This is 4 miles below Cedar Grove. It can be entered only in a boat, +and the entire floor is deeply covered with soft mud. + + +BIG CREEK CAVE + +There is a cave at the mouth of Big Creek which is often used as a +temporary camping place by hunters and fishermen. The water enters +it whenever there is a freshet in either the creek or the river; so it +could never have served as a place of permanent abode. + + + [Illustration: PLATE 3: MAP OF AREA EXAMINED + (Numbers refer to corresponding numbers in text)] + + * * * + + +TEXAS COUNTY + +SMITH CAVES (2) + +On James I. Smith's land, on Big Creek, a mile above Niles, are three +caves. One is merely a round opening 5 feet in width and height, soon +narrowing to a crevice; it would not be mentioned except that in it +was a sandstone slab such as mortars are made of. This bore no marks +of use; but it had been carried in for some purpose--possibly by white +men. + +The second cave, 50 feet from the first, has an entrance 20 feet wide +and 4 to 5 feet high. Dry earth extends back for 40 feet; then come +clay and fallen rocks, sloping downward toward the rear. The roof +maintains its level as far as followed. No trace of occupation could +be found. + +The third cave, 150 yards from the second, has an entrance 35 feet +wide and 20 feet high. Dry cave earth appears for 20 feet, at which +distance it merges with mud containing large rocks. The cavern extends +for 50 feet in daylight; water from the interior spreads over the +whole floor to the inner margin of dry earth, where it collects in a +little stream which passes out along the foot of one wall. The earth +deposit seems to be thin. The only objects that could be found in the +cave or about the entrance were a small sandstone slab, unmarked; a +small piece of deer bone; and one fragment of shell-tempered pottery. +Not a flake of flint was seen. + +These caves are not worth working. + + * * * * * + +A fourth of a mile from the cave last mentioned is a rock grave on a +ledge which projects at about 40 feet (vertically) below the top of +the hill. As near as can be judged, in its present torn-up condition, +the cairn was originally about 10 by 20 feet in dimensions; so there +were probably two graves covered by the ordinary conical heaps of +stone, the depression between them being filled up to form a single +cairn. + + +SALTPETER CAVE (3) + +Five miles west of Montauk, on Ashley Creek, is a cave noted for +having two entrances which are separated by a triangular mass of rock, +part of the original formation. This partition measures 30 feet across +at the face of the bluff and terminates within 20 feet. The principal +opening is 90 feet wide and 15 feet high. Dry cave earth extends back +90 feet, at which distance water constantly falls from the roof and +flows along the foot of one wall through the minor entrance. The +latter is 30 feet wide, 10 feet high, and its bottom is 10 feet lower +than that of the main opening. The volume of water passing out varies +with the seasons, but is sufficient at times to cover the entire floor +of the side chamber and keep it swept free of earth and small gravel. + +In the front portion of the main cavern the dry earth is 5 feet deep +in its thickest part; but as it has all been leached for obtaining the +saltpeter or niter diffused through it, none of it is in the original +position. Some earth has also been brought from farther back, leached, +and added to the pile in front; and much of this has been hauled out +for fertilizer. + +Near the main entrance is a large mass of breccia made up of small +angular limestone fragments cemented throughout with stalagmite +material; it projects several feet above the present level of the +earth floor, so the character of the cavern must have changed greatly +since this deposit was formed. + +The only artificial object found was a fragment, about an inch across, +of dark, sand-tempered pottery. + +Owing to the extensive changes resulting from collecting the +saltpeter, the cavern would not repay investigation. + + * * * + + +DENT COUNTY + +MAMMOTH CAVE + +The statement has been made that a large dry cavern, known as the +"Mammoth Cave," is in a bluff facing Current River, opposite the mouth +of Ashley Creek. It could not be located; and residents in the +vicinity assert that not only is there no cave near this site, but +there is none known as "Mammoth" anywhere in the region. Some of them, +however, had a vague idea that a cavern bearing the same name exists +"away down toward Eminence; it may be on Jack's Fork." + + +GUTHOERL CAVE + +There is a cave on the farm of Peter Guthoerl, 6 miles east of Salem. +It is small, with very little level space in front of it, and water +from the interior runs or seeps out of it, keeping the floor muddy +throughout the year. + + +SHORT BEND CAVE (4) + +Short Bend post office is 12 miles northeast of Salem. Half a mile +east of it, in a bluff on the opposite side of the Meramec River, is a +cave with an entrance 25 feet wide and about the same in height; the +roof forming a fairly symmetrical Gothic arch. Were it not for the +pile of talus in front, water from the river would pour into the +cavern in extreme floods; these subside very rapidly, however, and +have never percolated through the barrier. + +It is said that persons digging in a desultory way have unearthed +bones which were assumed to be those of Indians because they were +"red." No description of them could be obtained, and they may not have +been human bones at all. + +The floor is level and dry for about 80 feet back from the entrance, +but no refuse of any kind appeared, except in the pile of talus +outside, which showed a small quantity of flint chips such as would be +left by hunting parties in repairing their weapons. + + +MONEY CAVE + +This is a fourth of a mile down the river from Short Bend Cave. It +takes its name from the customary tradition that Indians concealed a +large treasure here; the legend being authenticated by an "Indian +chief" who told a white man that his people had buried much gold in a +cave in this bluff, built a fire over the money, then filled the mouth +of the cave with earth and rock. Some of the persons who opened many +small holes in searching for the hidden wealth claim to have found +ashes in this cave, behind the barrier, which is only ordinary talus. +The floor is of tough clay, fallen rocks, and stalagmite, all of +which, as well as the walls and ledges, were industriously dug and +hammered for months by the treasure seekers. + +A cave with an entrance 15 feet wide, the same in height, and having a +depth of 45 feet in daylight, lies between Money Cave and Short Bend +Cave. In very wet seasons water runs through it from the interior; and +high water backs into it from the Meramec River. + + +SALTPETER CAVE + +This is three-fourths of a mile north of Short Bend post office, on +the opposite side of the river. The arched entrance is 25 feet wide +and 20 feet high. Fifteen feet from the front the cave divides into +two branches about equal in size; they have never been explored to the +end. One branch continues straight back for about 100 feet, then turns +abruptly to the right for 50 or 60 feet, at which distance it resumes +its original direction. The other branch turns directly to the right +and is in daylight for 50 feet. Much of the cave earth has been hauled +away for fertilizer, or leached for obtaining saltpeter, so that only +a small quantity remains in front. Farther back, in both chambers, the +dry earth where not disturbed is 8 to 10 feet thick. + +The cavern is easily accessible, close to the river, and otherwise +well adapted for habitation; but careful search failed to reveal any +indication that it had ever been thus used. + + +WATSON, TWIN, OR ONYX CAVES + +The two caverns thus variously designated are on the Meramec River, 14 +miles north of Salem. They are parallel to a depth of about 100 feet, +being separated by only 10 or 12 feet of solid wall. The floors of +both slope downward from front to rear, but not so rapidly as the +roof, so that at this distance the caves apparently come to an end. +But that they continue back into the hill is manifest from the +appearance of the roofs. In some manner the rear portion of each has +become entirely filled with earth. Probably they unite somewhere +beyond this point. + +Either of these caves is of ample size to make an excellent shelter +for a large number of people; but they are difficult of access, and no +evidence whatever could be discovered indicating occupancy. + +In fact, this part of the Meramec Valley does not seem to have ever +been permanently inhabited. Residents say that relics, even flint +implements, are seldom found in the bottom lands; and this fact was +commented on by persons who have learned how common such things are in +other localities. Small, rough hematite axes, however, occur in +considerable quantities throughout the region. The ore outcrops at +various places and solid nodules or fragments are plentiful. Chert +knives or spearheads are found scattered promiscuously; and, rarely, +an object made of other stone may be picked up. Very few specimens of +any description are symmetrical or carefully finished. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS (5) + +On the Dent County infirmary farm, in Spring Creek Valley, a mile and +a half south of Salem, is a group of house mounds, about 50 in number. +They have not been much disturbed by cultivation; the creek and a +drainage ditch have cut through several of them, but, as usual, there +is nothing in the construction to show their purpose. + +Two similar groups are on the Short Bend road, not far from Salem; +another group on Peter Guthoerl's farm 6 miles east of Salem; and a +fourth group, partly within the corporate limits of Salem, on the road +to Rolla. + + * * * + + +PHELPS COUNTY + +BATES CAVE + +On the farm of J.W. Riden, 6 miles southeast of Big Piney post office, +is Bates Cave, of which every visitor to the region is speedily +informed. It is entered with difficulty by sliding feet first down the +inner slope of a pile of debris which fills the entrance almost to +the roof. Once beyond this, there is ample space. On the hillside, +above the mouth, is a vertical shaft, like a well, due to the widening +of a crevice; access to the interior of the cave may also be had +through this by means of a long rope. Under present conditions, it +would not be used except as a temporary shelter or hiding place; for +which purposes bushwhackers availed themselves of its advantages +during the Civil War. + +This cavern is renowned far beyond its merits on account of its famous +"ballroom," where dances and picnics are held; artificial lights being +placed on the walls. Possibly the manner in which it must be entered +has something to do with its popularity. + + +ANOTHER "BATES CAVE" + +Within a few rods of the cave above described is another, with an +entrance 60 feet wide and 10 feet high. Cave earth, which is 5 feet +thick above the bottom of a small stream coming from the interior, +extends back to large rocks covering the floor; beyond these are +rocks, wet clay, and gravel. The cave earth seems to run for some +distance under the receding walls. A milk house has been constructed +in it, so that excavations are not permitted. + + +RENAUD CAVE + +Four miles east of Edgar Springs, facing Little Piney, is Renaud +(R[)e]n'n[=o]) Cave, on the farm of Charles E. Widener. The entrance +is 50 feet wide and 10 feet high. Dry cave earth extends back for 65 +feet, then comes fallen rock for 100 feet or more. A little stream +runs close to the north wall. Cave earth is 5 feet deep on the bedrock +at the entrance and rises toward the interior. There is much refuse +within and also on the slope in front of the entrance. + + +MARSH CAVES + +A shelter cave on Henry Marsh's farm, facing Little Piney, 2 miles +south of Yancy Mills, has a front 35 feet wide, 15 feet high, and runs +back 60 feet. There is a wet-weather stream bed through the center. +Bedrock shows at the entrance, rising toward the rear for a few feet, +then becoming covered with cave earth, which probably has a maximum +thickness of 2 feet. There is considerable refuse scattered about, but +it is doubtful whether the shallow deposit would repay investigation. + + +WILD-HOG CAVE + +A fourth of a mile from the above cave is one known as "Wild-hog +Cave," because in pioneer days these animals gathered here for shelter +and protection. It is a small, tunnel-like affair, with a solid rock +floor, and extends farther into the hill than anyone has ever dared to +venture. + + +SHELTERS + +Two small rock shelters near the Wild-hog Cave may have been resorted +to as temporary camping places. + + +PHELPS CAVE + +A cave on the farm of James Phelps, 2 miles south of Yancy Mills, is +described as small, with a narrow entrance. + + +"KEY ROCKS" + +Near Yancy Mills there is something known as "the Key Rocks." It can +not be found by a stranger and no guide was available at the time the +place was sought. It is described as a small, deep, circular hole in +solid rock, in which were many stone covers or lids, one above +another, gradually diminishing in size and "cut to fit down on each +other." It is probably due to stream erosion. + + +JONES CAVE + +On Little Piney, half a mile south from Yancy Mills, is a large cave +on the Jones farm. It is said to have a large entrance and much earth +on the floor. As the owner uses it for a warehouse in which to store +fruits and vegetables and utilizes the stream flowing through it for +preserving milk and butter, no examination could be made. + + +YANCY MILLS CAVE + +There is a small, shallow cave near the top of the bluff, half a mile +north of Yancy Mills. It contains no evidence of occupation, except +that walls and ceiling are blackened with smoke, due, probably, to +modern refugees or hunters. + + +LANE MOUND (7) + +It was reported, too late to visit the site, that on George Lane's +farm, on Little Piney, a mile north of Yancy Mills, is a mound "8 feet +high, built of earth," and surrounded with the usual evidences of a +village site, scattered over the level bottom on which it stands. + + +CAIRNS ON LOST HILL, AT MOUTH OF GOURD CREEK (8) + +Gourd Creek flows into the east side of Little Piney River 12 miles +southwest of Rolla. It is less than 4 miles long, and but for three or +four large springs near its source, which keep its volume fairly +uniform, would be dry most of the year. + +Parallel with it, a short distance to the southward, is a ravine +several miles in length, known as Coal Pit Hollow. This originally +discharged its drainage into Little Piney about half a mile above the +mouth of Gourd Creek. A ravine tributary to the latter, near its +mouth, has worked back until it has captured the flow of Coal Pit. The +lower end of the stream bed thus abandoned now forms a gap or +depression with a slight incline from the center in both directions. +The crest of the deserted portion is about 50 to 60 feet above the +present level of Little Piney. The hill inclosed by this quadrilateral +drainage is about a fourth of a mile in length along its top, has a +direction almost north and south, with a nearly uniform slope along +the summit, the southern point being somewhat higher than that at the +north, and terminates abruptly at each end. The sides descend at once +from the center line of the ridge, like a roof with a slightly rounded +comb. + +On account of its isolated position the eminence is locally known as +"Lost Hill." It is not to be confused, however, with several similar +formations in this region, to which the same term is applied and which +may owe their existence to a like cause, or may be due to cut-offs by +streams. + +On the top of this particular Lost Hill are six cairns, five of them +near the northern end, the sixth just where the ridge breaks off to +the south. The margins are uncertain owing to the upper stones being +scattered by hunters as well as by credulous individuals who are +firmly fixed in the belief that all such "rock piles" contain gold +hidden by Indians. + +So far as can now be determined the five at the northern end were 16 +to 18 feet across as left by the builders, the southernmost one being +somewhat smaller. All are in uncleared land, and crevices between the +stones are filled with a tangled mass of roots from the trees and +bushes growing on and around them. + +The relative positions are about thus, measurements being made on the +earth between the scattered stones: (1) 10 feet, (2) 10 feet, (3) 50 +feet, (4) 10 feet, (5) 1,000 feet, (6). The distance from (5) to (6) +is estimated by stepping and may vary considerably either way from the +measure given. + +Cairns (1), (2), and (3) were thoroughly excavated. + + +CAIRN (1) + +This, the farthest north, was about 16 by 17 feet within the original +limits. When the outer loose rocks were removed there was disclosed a +wall of flat stones on the natural surface, so laid as to form an +inclosure apparently intended to be practically square. It measured, +across the center, from outside to outside, about 14 feet from north +to south by 12 feet from east to west. The north and south walls were +straight, the others outwardly curved. The approximate outline is +shown in figure 1. In most parts the wall was only one stone high; in +a few places there was another rock laid up. Over and within this wall +had been piled loose stones, ranging in size from small pebbles to +fragments of 150 pounds in weight, to form a heap whose original +height was about 2 feet. + + [Illustration: FIG. 1.--Outline of Cairn (1), at Lost Hill, Phelps + County, Mo.] + +When all these were cleared away the space within the wall was found +to measure 9 feet in each direction. Three feet from the middle of the +west wall was a fragment of a child's skull lying on the undisturbed +angular gravel which forms the natural surface on this ridge except +where a small amount of recently decayed humus may be held by rocks +and roots. Halfway between the center and the north wall was the top +of an adult skull, with three fragments of long bones. These, which +were much gnawed by rodents, were in black earth, evidently the former +home of some burrowing animal. + +A foot north of the infant's skull were small remnants of an adult's +skull, probably belonging with the piece first found. There were also +some scraps of animal bones, much gnawed. + + +CAIRN (2) + +This measured from 16 to 18 feet across to the outer edge of the loose +stones, and about 30 inches high. Under the top rocks was a rough wall +similar to that in Cairn (1), but all the sides were nearly straight. +The outline is given in figure 2. The outside measurements, across the +center, were 15 feet each way. There were more stones in this wall +than in the first; mostly there were two, and in some places three, +superposed. + + [Illustration: FIG. 2.--Outline of Cairn (2), at Lost Hill, Phelps + County, Mo.] + +Extending from north to south across the middle of the vault was a row +of large slabs standing on edge with their tops leaning toward the +east. Their inclination varied from nearly horizontal to nearly +vertical; so it would appear that they were not placed thus +intentionally but had settled irregularly. Probably they had formed +the covering of a pen or vault, of poles or timbers, in which a body +had been placed. + +Close to these inclined slabs, near the north wall of the vault, was +the effigy pipe shown in figure 3. It is made of a fine-grained +sandstone and seems intended to represent a buzzard with an +exaggerated tail, though the beak is more like that of a crow. This +specimen lay between two flat rocks which were separated by a little +earth and gravel, but there were no traces of bone with it or near it. + + [Illustration: FIG. 3.--Pipe from Cairn (2).] + +At a slightly lower level than the pipe were several flat stones +standing at various angles. When these were removed there were found +fragmentary remains of at least three adults, lying in confusion, as +if only the folded dismembered skeletons had been placed here. They +lay on a floor of slabs which, in turn, rested upon undisturbed +gravel. + +The facts observed are difficult to interpret, as the original order +was so broken up; but it would seem that as a preliminary to the +burial of bodies or skeletons, the superficial earth had been scraped +away and a rough stone floor laid, on which the bundled or folded +remains were placed and at least partially covered with earth and +gravel. Other flat rocks were then laid over them, either directly on +the earth or more probably supported by poles placed across, whose +decay had allowed them to fall into the confusion in which they were +found. + +A small flint knife was among the remains. + +The pipe, being at a little distance from these bones, would suggest +another interment; but as no trace of such remained it may have been +placed as an afterthought or a separate deposit. + +From these skeletons row after row of the slanting rocks continued to +the inner side of the eastern wall. Two feet east of the pipe was a +skull on its right side, the back against a small flat rock. It was +crushed flat, and only a small part of it remained. Possibly it had +turned after burial, as fragments of other bones were found here and +there toward the south from it, indicating an extended burial. The +teeth were hard, solid, and much worn. The bones found were more or +less gnawed, and among them were scraps, probably of food animals, +burned into charcoal. No bones found could be saved, as they were very +soft. + + +CAIRN (3) + +This was similar in construction to (1) and (2), as is shown in figure +4. The wall, along the outside, measured 14 feet on the south, 13 feet +on the north, 15 feet on the west, and 14 feet on the east. The +inclosed space was 10 feet across each way. Some one had dug out much +of the south end; the northern end was undisturbed. + + [Illustration: FIG. 4.--Outline of Cairn (3), Lost Hill.] + +The prior excavation had barely missed, near the west wall, a few +fragments of an adult skull and three teeth. About even with the +middle point of the west wall, 2 feet from it, was evidence of the +burial of an adult--pieces of bone and skull, and some teeth. North of +these, near the northwest corner, were fragments of two adult skulls, +with one of which were some beads made of shells of water snails; 18 +of these were recovered, all more or less decayed. Between these two +skulls were parts of a child's skull, the teeth not yet through the +bone. + +Inclined flat stones in the eastern half of the grave, the tops +leaning eastward, denoted other burials; but nothing was found under +them, although small flat stones laid on the original surface +indicated the bottom of a grave. + +Evidently several burials, of which all traces have disappeared, were +made in this vault. + +Owing to the practical identity of these three graves, the poor +returns, and the difficulty of working in a tangled mass of tough +roots without displacing the stones so greatly that their proper +position became a perplexing question, the remaining three were not +excavated. + + +EXPLORATION OF THE GOURD CREEK CAVE (8) + +Near the mouth of Gourd Creek, on the north side, is a cave which has +acquired much local reputation from its size and also from the +evidence it affords of a long-continued occupation by the aborigines. +It is easily reached from the road which passes in front; wagons can +be driven into it and there is ample space for them to turn and pass +out. Formerly it was much resorted to as a pleasant place for social +gatherings; but in recent years it has been used as a barn and +storehouse. The owner, Mr. Valentine Allen, gave cheerful permission +for all the excavation that was desired, subject only to the proviso +that the floor be put back in condition suitable for the purposes for +which he needed it. And it is only fair to state that he was not at +all difficult to satisfy in this respect. + +A stream coming from the interior had a flow at the close of the long +drought in 1918 sufficient to fill a 2-inch pipe with a rapid fall; in +wet seasons the water spreads from wall to wall until it comes to +within 100 feet of the mouth. + +Back in the cave, where the slope is greater, it has sufficient volume +and force to carry away all pebbles smaller than coarse gravel and the +material that finds lodgment among the stones. + +The cave is easily traversed for almost 600 feet; beyond this are +narrow crevices and tortuous passages, where explorers must frequently +crawl or clamber. One adventurous party proceeded until they reached +an opening on the other side of the hill; but this was so choked by +fallen rock and debris from the hillside as to be impassable. In +storms a strong breeze passes through the main entrance, in or out in +accordance with the direction of the wind. + +Owing to the irregular outline of the cliffs, the width of the +entrance can not be accurately given. From side to side, well under +the front of the ceiling the distance is 110 feet. Two hundred feet +toward the interior it contracts to 50 feet. At the entrance the walls +are vertical to a height of 25 feet; a short curve at the top on +either side, due to the breaking away of the ledges, connects them +with the roof, which is somewhat higher. Being a single massive +stratum, the top is practically horizontal, but the floor constantly +rises from the front with a slight and fairly uniform grade. The front +chamber is straight and well lighted for 300 feet, where it turns +abruptly westward; from this point the floor is solid rock which the +water keeps comparatively free from any loose matter except heavy +blocks from the walls or top. + +Beginning at the entrance is a deposit whose farthest extension +reaches 100 feet into the cavern. It is composed to a small extent of +sand and clay carried by the stream, and of earth blown or washed in +from the outside; but, as investigation proved, it is mainly ashes +from prehistoric fires. The surface of this deposit, especially toward +the inner end, is very uneven, being higher near the walls than +through the central portion. This is due to two causes: In very wet +seasons water has carried away much of it, and a large amount has been +hauled out by the owner to scatter over his fields as a fertilizer. He +reports that in the course of this work he found quantities of pottery +fragments, broken bones, flints, and "two or three" human skeletons, +with fragments of others. This is the basis for the assertion, +frequently heard, that "many" or "very many" burials had been made +here. The only human remains which he saved are the complete skull of +an adult, remarkably preserved and apparently that of a white woman; a +rather large lower jaw, of a man; a few long bones; and parts of +skulls and jaws of three or four children. + +From comments made and questions asked by visitors while the +investigation was in progress, it seems that bones and teeth of deer +and other animals are mistaken for those of people. No human bones +were uncovered in this work, except as noted below. + +There is a firm belief in the community that somewhere in this cave is +concealed $100,000 in gold, seven "pony loads" in all, which was put +here by an old squaw, sole survivor of a massacre by which her tribe +was exterminated. Much of the irregularity of surface noted in the +deposits is due to the efforts of persons trying to find this money. + +Before starting the work it was necessary to deepen the little stream, +which had cut its way through the accumulation much nearer to the +western than to the eastern wall of the cavern, in order to allow the +water to run out of the lower end of the deposit. Thorough drainage of +the whole mass was impossible, as water continually seeped in from the +gravel bed farther up, a condition which could not be remedied. + +Bedrock was reached at a depth of 3 feet below the channel. The lower +2 feet of this distance was through a black, mucky substance which was +so tough and sticky that removing it was like digging through a bog. + +Following the bedrock as a floor, the western side of the deposit was +first examined. It had a width of 35 feet at the mouth of the cave, +gradually narrowing inward for a distance of 75 feet, where it +terminated at the level of the water. Its greatest elevation, at the +side of the entrance, was about 10 feet; but this does not mean that +its thickness was so much at any point, as the rock sloped upward +quite as rapidly as the surface. So many stones were scattered through +it, fallen from the sides and roof, or rolled in from the outside +where they had broken loose from the cliff, that not more than +one-fourth of the area could be excavated. These rocks varied in size +from cobblestones to blocks weighing 3 or 4 tons. They were at all +levels, some lying on the rock floor, others only slightly imbedded in +the earth. Yet the superficial accumulation extended under all of them +except such as were in direct contact with the bedrock, proving that +the cave was occupied throughout the period in which such downfalls +occurred. An additional evidence of age is the fact that the usual +debris, such as bones, flints, pottery, ashes, etc., lay in immediate +contact with the bedrock where this has weathered to a chalky +consistency from 2 to 4 inches in depth since these objects were left +there. + +Owing to the uneven surface of both the bedrock and the deposits on +it, the thickness of the latter varied from 1 to 3 feet--not including +the muck, which last, however, disappeared at the level where the rock +rose above the water line. But, whatever the depth, more than half the +overlying material was pure ashes; either resting undisturbed on the +fire beds, or piled in irregular masses, where they had been thrown to +get them out of the way. The largest ash bed was near the wall; it +measured from 4 to 7 feet across, with a very uneven outline, as if +many fires had been made there at different times. + +The objects discovered included flint knives, spearheads, arrowheads +(mostly broken), with many spalls and chips; potsherds (only very +small pieces were found); animal bones; mussel shells; bone +perforators; chert nodules, more or less flaked; two stone beads or +buttons; a small fragment of a pipe; but no mortars, hammers, pestles, +cooking-stones, or hatchets, such as are usually found on the sites of +Indian villages. None of the pottery was decorated, but most of it was +cord-marked, though some of it was so smoothed and polished as almost +to appear glazed. It varied through a wide range of color, thickness, +and general appearance, and was noticeably deficient in quantity. In +fact, the west side of the cave had less the appearance of a +permanently occupied site than of a camping place which was used as a +temporary resort by traveling or hunting parties; but at the same time +the depth and amount of ashes showed that it had afforded shelter +through a long period. + +The excavation on this side included all the space bounded by the +ditch, the wall, the mass of rocks piled at the entrance, and the +water-soaked earth toward the interior. The muck, and the large blocks +scattered around, prevented a complete clearing out; but the part +thoroughly examined had an area of about 600 square feet, perhaps a +little more. No human bones were found, in spite of reports of their +discovery and reburial by treasure hunters in the past; and there was +wide disagreement on the part of visitors, who were also present when +the bones were found, as to the number of such interments. All finally +conceded that there was only one adult skull, though there was much +argument as to the number of children's remains discovered, the person +who was blessed with the largest memory insisting there were 13 "all +in a pile." There was also some discussion as to whether the remains +were actually found near the west wall or had been carried over there +and reinterred after being exhumed on the east side. + +These particulars are given merely to show how little reliance is to +be placed upon the statements of perfectly truthful persons who do +not observe closely, whose memory plays them tricks, who are not +especially interested in the matter under discussion, or whose +recollections naturally become jumbled after several years have +elapsed. + +Work was next begun on the east side, at the edge of the drainage +trench. Bedrock was reached as before, under 2 feet of muck, and was +weathered until quite soft and of a yellowish hue, for 3 or 4 inches +below its surface. An effort was made to keep on the rock as a floor, +removing all the muck; but this was so water soaked, so tenacious, and +so filled with chert and limestone gravel that it could not be managed +with either pick or shovel. A little of the gravel had no doubt fallen +from the roof; but nearly all of this mingled material had washed down +from the interior, as it was entirely similar, except for its dark +color, to that forming the floor farther in. Consequently it was +necessary to limit the explorations to that part of the deposit which +lay above the wet black mass. Numerous attempts were made to ascertain +the thickness of the latter; but water, gravel, and slush oozed or +slid into the hole as fast as they could be removed, and it was +impossible to reach the bottom. The eastward dip of the rock floor, as +noted on the western side of the cave, no doubt continues entirely +across. If such be the case, then the original drainage line was +against the foot of the eastern wall. Later, because the channel was +obstructed by talus, the stream was forced more and more to the west, +saturating, up to the level of its final outlet, the earth and ashes +which had accumulated. It may be, however, that either this line of +drainage, or the mass of talus in front of the cave, is of +comparatively recent origin. Such accumulations as those described +would be impossible under present conditions. At any rate, this +deposit of muck, then dry, started from the floor of the cave with the +earliest occupation; for artificial objects of the same character that +occurred in the dry deposit above were found in it to a depth of 3 or +4 inches. They may continue to the bedrock, but on account of the +standing water no satisfactory observations could be made below the +level indicated. + +Lying above the muck and, as intimated, practically continuous with +it, was an accumulation of ashes with which here and there some earth +was mingled, though the latter made only a small proportion of the +entire mass, and was sometimes entirely lacking from top to bottom. +They were principally in strata or irregular layers, lying undisturbed +where fires had been made; but there were also many scattered piles, +usually small, where they had been thrown to get them out of the way. + +The excavation on the eastern side began with a trench 25 feet wide. +When this had been carried about the same distance toward the wall, +rocks and earth rolled and washed in from the outside were encountered +on the right, the side toward the mouth of the cavern. These reached +from the bottom to the surface, and were continuous with the bank of +talus. As results had been meager along here, the sides of the trench +were turned to the northward and northwestward. The entire trench was +43 feet long and varied in width from 30 feet in the central parts to +18 feet at the extreme northern end. The left face reached, in its +entire length, nearly to the drain; on the right side the eastern wall +of the cavern was uncovered for 15 feet. It embraced nearly all the +area not previously dug by others, except a triangular space at the +east side of the entrance, filled with large stones, as just stated. + +Near the middle of the excavated area was a heap of large fallen +rocks, fully a carload in all; some of them imbedded in the muck, +others barely penetrating the surface of the latest deposits. Ashes +lay under and between all of them, proving this side also had been +inhabited before the first of them had become loose, and that +occupancy was practically continuous until the last one had fallen. +The inmates, recognizing the danger, may have knocked these down. + +The greatest depth of ashes found in any part of the excavation was 7 +feet; but it may have been greater previous to any disturbance; nor +does this include such as may be present in the muck. There were +unbroken layers as much as 8 inches thick covering spaces 5 to 10 feet +across; many smaller, intact patches; and numerous masses, from a peck +to a bushel in volume, removed from fire beds elsewhere. Charcoal +among them showed that bark and dead wood, principally oak, was the +main reliance for fuel. + +The wrought objects found were flints, mostly broken or of rough +finish; very many small fragments of pottery; mortars made of +sandstone slabs; hammerstones or pestles; bone perforators; mussel +shells, some pierced for suspension or for attachment of a handle, +some with outer surfaces and edges dressed for use as spoons; hematite +ore, in the rough or rubbed to procure paint. There was a great +abundance of bones from animals used for food, mostly deer, though +elk, bear, many smaller mammals, turtles, tortoises, turkeys, and +other birds were well represented. Singularly enough, when the +plentiful supply of fish in all the streams of this region is +considered, none of their bones or scales were found, although the +ashes would have preserved them perfectly. Nor were there many burned +rocks, in view of the amount of pottery and the number of bones which +showed that they had been boiled. Perhaps such stones had crumbled or +were thrown outside when near disintegration. + +There is a consensus of belief, or at least of statement, in the +neighborhood that many human skeletons have been dug out close to the +east wall. In the only part reached during this work--which took in +about all that had not been searched by others--rocks lay along the +wall, so large and so numerous that no graves could have been dug +behind or between them. By careful and persistent questioning it was +established that skeletons had been found in two places and a detached +jaw in another. + +A human skull, which was very soft and fell to pieces when uncovered, +was found on, and slightly pressed into, the muck at a point 15 feet +from the wall; there were no other bones about it, though a rough +stone hammer, whose presence was probably accidental, lay close by. A +single human molar was lying among some ashes. + +These were the only human remains found during the work, except two +adult femurs of different individuals, and fragments of a skull and +some other bones from a child and from an infant, all of which lay +close to the wall where they had been thrown and slightly covered by +parties previously working here. + +As the depth of the wet material on the rock floor of the eastern side +of this cavern is unknown, interesting results might be obtained by a +careful examination of it; but this can not be made until a ditch is +dug through it of sufficient depth to drain it thoroughly. + +Slight investigation outside the entrance showed a large amount of +broken bones, pottery, and flint; and this dump may contain even more +material than was found in an equal volume in the cavern. But in +addition to the rocks of all sizes broken off from the cliff, there +were also many which had rolled down from the hillside above; and all +these were so interlaced with roots as to make digging very difficult +and unsatisfactory. Consequently further exploration at this site was +deemed undesirable. + +Pointed bone and antler implements from Gourd Creek Cave are shown in +plate 4. A shell knife, a bead from a fragment of sea shell, and types +of flint arrowheads appear in plate 5. + + * * * * * + +There is a village site on Gourd Creek bottom, at the foot of Lost +Hill, and a little below the cave. Three small earth mounds are plowed +nearly level. + + * * * * * + +A small village site is located on the east bank of Little Piney, half +a mile below Gourd Creek. + + * * * * * + +In the bluff facing Little Piney, a mile below Gourd Creek, on the +opposite side, is a small, shallow cave with a low roof. Water cracks +on the floor show that it is sometimes flooded. No signs of use are +apparent. + + * * * * * + +On the hill over the cave just mentioned is a cairn, now destroyed. + + [Illustration: PLATE 4 BONE AND ANTLER IMPLEMENTS FROM GOURD CREEK + CAVE, PHELPS COUNTY, MO.] + + [Illustration: PLATE 5 SHELL AND FLINT OBJECTS FROM GOURD CREEK + CAVE] + + +ONYX CAVE (9) + +Five miles southwest of Arlington, near the Boiling Spring in the +Gasconade, is Onyx Cave, so named because much workable stalagmite +occurs in it. It has a number of branches, some of which have been +explored for several hundred yards without coming to the end. The +entrance is 90 feet in width. A pile of talus at the front, lying +partly inside the cavern, reaches nearly to the roof; it has a height +of 26 to 28 feet above the level of the wet, muddy floor. Drainage is +through a small aperture in the north wall, whose outlet is not known. +Apparently the bedrock lies at a considerable depth; it is not visible +at any point in the steep ravine leading from the mouth of the cave to +the river. Formerly a large quantity of ashes covered much of the +inner slope of the talus, where it is protected from the weather; but +most of them have been hauled away to scatter over the fields. They +extend to a greater depth than any digging was ever carried. The +cavern has long been a refuge for stock, and this, with the trampling +of many visitors, has mingled all the superficial deposits, so that, +while ashes may be seen mixed with the debris, no ash beds are now to +be found. + +There must be a very pronounced cavernous condition in this vicinity. +At a number of places, even extending to a distance of 2 miles from +Onyx Cave, the passage of a wagon produces a rumbling sound, +indicative of a cavity at no great depth. There are also many sink +holes, some closed, forming ponds, others with free openings. They are +so numerous that no one of them drains any considerable area. The +largest of these sinks measures from top to top of its slopes about +three-fourths of a mile long and half a mile wide. Around much of its +margin are vertical cliffs; there are few places where descent is +practicable. It is 300 feet deep, perhaps more; for when the +Gasconade, more than a mile away, is at flood stage the water from it, +backing through an underground passage, breaks in at two different +points not at the same elevation, and covers the nearly level floor of +the depression, about 15 acres in area, to a depth or 15 to 20 feet. + +Another sink, near this, is conical in form, a fourth of a mile across +and more than 200 feet deep. + + +GOAT BLUFF CAVE (10) + +Goat Bluff Cave, 4 miles west of Arlington, on the left bank of the +Gasconade, is at the foot of a vertical cliff 50 feet high, the slope +above rising about as much higher to the crest of the ridge. A few +yards to the west is a slight ravine through which, with a little +effort, the top of the hill may be reached. In front, the declivity, +while steep as earth will lie, furnishes fairly easy passage to and +from the river which lies 200 feet below. + +The entrance to the cave is an arch 30 feet high and 75 feet wide, +facing a little east of south. The width holds nearly the same for 90 +feet, whence it rapidly contracts to 20 feet; the roof meanwhile +descending to 10 feet above the floor. The extreme rear of this +chamber is nearly filled with large blocks of stone. At the front part +the floor is several feet higher along the west wall than at the east; +this condition being due to the combined action of accumulation from +the ravine above mentioned and erosion by a little rivulet which +emerges from a crevice 30 feet within the entrance and flows at the +foot of the east wall. Beyond this the floor is practically level +across the inclosed space, with a slight and uniform ascent toward the +rear. No evidence of rock bottom appears at any point. + +A preliminary cut at the outer margin of the cave showed two distinct, +sharply separated strata. The lower is a red or yellow clay containing +much angular gravel such as usually results from disintegration of +limestone in which chert is abundant. Above this is a deposit of very +loose fine material. Toward the rear the upper deposit had been +disturbed by "curiosity seekers," who reported finding much evidence +of prehistoric occupation, such as ashes, charcoal, fragments of +pottery, and worked flint, as well as several skeletons, the latter +"in a sitting position." The last part of this statement is a mistake. +The bodies were closely flexed and placed on the side; the bones +settled to the bottom of the grave, while the skull, if intact, is +reached first by excavators and the conclusion drawn at once that it +is "on top of the other bones." This error of observation is quite +common among relic hunters, and is not unknown among student +investigators. + +In order to dispose of material removed in excavating, it was +necessary to start a trench from the slope outside the mouth of the +cave. As it progressed the substratum of clay became wetter and more +difficult to dig. At 40 feet from the beginning, where the trench was +11 feet deep, the seeping water accumulated until it covered the +bottom of the trench, so that no greater depth could be reached. A +crowbar forced downward for 18 inches, as far as it could be driven, +did not reach solid bottom. Not the slightest trace of human agency +was found anywhere below the top of the clay, and from this point +excavations were confined to the upper stratum, to which alone the +following description is applicable. + +This deposit was composed partly of fine loose earth, probably carried +in by the wind and on the feet of persons and animals; partly of roof +dust; and partly of ashes. A considerable portion of it was roughly +stratified in layers of varying extent and thickness, though much of +it was irregular, and it was mingled throughout with campsite debris. +Occasional layers of roof dust several feet across in any direction +and of varying thickness, from a faint streak to 6 inches, so closely +resembled ashes that many persons could not be convinced of its true +character. Its occurrence in this manner indicates that during +considerable periods the cave was unoccupied, or at most used only as +a temporary refuge. The intermittent character of occupancy is also +shown by the distinct segregation of numerous successive layers of +kitchen refuse. + +About 10 feet within the point where a vertical line from the front +edge of the roof would meet the floor the skeleton of a very young +infant was found above and in contact with two thick angular blocks of +limestone weighing 300 to 400 pounds. These rested on the red clay and +had fallen from the roof. The thickness of earth above the bones was +about 3 feet. + +Ten feet farther in, on the clay floor, under almost exactly 5 feet of +undisturbed material, were five flat stones. Three were of sandstone, +the largest about 25 pounds in weight, such as can be found in place +only on top of the hill. They were carefully arranged for use as a +fire bed; on and around them were potsherds, flint chips, animal and +bird bones, and a bone awl. This was the greatest depth at which +artificial objects were found; and their position shows them to be as +ancient as anything discovered. + + [Illustration: FIG. 5.--Fragment of glass bottle from Goat Bluff + Cave.] + +At 25 feet in an interesting find was made. Eighteen inches below the +surface of the floor, in a mass of mingled charcoal, ashes, mussel +shells, flint chips, and other aboriginal refuse, was a small piece of +glass, apparently part of a bottle, shown in figure 5. Above it and +extending for several feet on every side was an unbroken stratum of +root dust from 2 to 4 inches thick. Above this, in turn were several +thin, undisturbed layers of camp refuse, about 6 inches in all, and +then 6 inches of the loose, incoherent surface earth. This discovery +is susceptible of two interpretations. One is that between the date +when Indians could procure articles from the whites and the date at +which they abandoned this fireplace there was time for the +accumulation of the given thickness of disintegrated material from the +roof, the cave, or at least this part of it, not being used meanwhile +for a habitation; then for the accumulation of several distinct layers +of camp refuse; and finally for the depositing of the cave earth over +it all. This hypothesis is unreasonable. While the rate of formation +of either roof dust or stalagmite is extremely variable, so that it is +not safe to predicate a definite antiquity for objects found beneath +even a considerable thickness of either, at the same time the small +area involved precludes the idea that a number of occupants sufficient +to account for the volume of debris could have lived here unless we +allow a much longer period than would necessarily elapse within the +dates indicated. The other, quite plausible, interpretation is that +the glass was dragged to the spot by a ground hog or other animal +whose runway had become obliterated by settling of the loose material +through which it was made. + +The only purpose of elaborating this subject is to guard investigators +against attaching too much importance to an article found under such +or similar conditions, whether it be a "palaeolithic type," or an +"object undoubtedly of European origin." + +Thirty-five feet in, under three flat slabs whose upper surface was a +little more than 3 feet below the floor, was an adult skeleton, on the +back, knees flexed to the chest. The body had been laid in a cavity +dug in the clay to a depth of 6 inches. The bones were well preserved +and fresh looking, but light and fragile. + +Forty feet in, 31/2 feet down, was a flat stone under which were two +skulls. One, shown in plate 6, was perfect, with a full set of sound +teeth; from the other, seen in plate 7, the lower jaw was missing. No +other bones were found except two cervical vertebrae, belonging to the +smaller skull. Undisturbed stratified ashes and roof dust were 30 +inches thick above the stone. + +To this point the trench was not dug to a greater width than 15 feet; +it was now gradually extended to a width of 40 feet to include most of +the central portion. + +Sixty feet in, in the upper part of the clay, like all the human bones +discovered, was a skull with the scapulae, a few ribs, and one arm +bone. The lower jaw was missing, and two phalanges were inside the +skull. With the scapulae was one of a much smaller person. Eighteen +inches from these bones, and 6 inches higher, was part of a lower jaw. + +At 50 to 60 feet in, on the clay stratum, lay a slab 10 to 12 feet +across and of varying thickness up to 18 inches or more. It fell from +the roof so long ago that the latter is worn and smoothed above it in +much the same way as at other parts. At the east edge of this slab was +a skull so soft and crushed that it could be taken out only in small +fragments; the teeth were very slightly worn, though of large size. A +few traces of other bones were found; not enough to identify. At the +north edge of the slab were two skulls, one of which is shown in plate +8; the other, which belonged to a young person, is given in plate 9. +The limb bones, scapulae, and hip bones, with a few others, were in a +small pile at one side; but neither lower jaw, no ribs, and only a few +vertebrae were found. + + [Illustration: PLATE 6 SKULL FROM GOAT BLUFF CAVE, PHELPS COUNTY, + MO. a, Front; b, profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 7 SKULL FROM GOAT BLUFF CAVE a, Front; b, + profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 8 SKULL FROM GOAT BLUFF CAVE a, Front; b, + profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 9 SKULL OF CHILD FROM GOAT BLUFF CAVE a, + Front; b, profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 10 FLINTS FROM GOAT BLUFF CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 11 BONE AND ANTLER IMPLEMENTS FROM GOAT BLUFF + CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 12 BONE AND ANTLER IMPLEMENTS FROM GOAT BLUFF + CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 13 + a, Cairn six miles north of Arlington, Mo. + b, Walled grave six miles north of Arlington, Mo.] + +About 65 feet in, near the west side, an inverted pot which shows no +marks of use was found in a mass of ashes filling a cavity the size of +a half bushel, which had been dug in the upper deposit. Scattered here +and there among the ashes were also some mussel shells and +broken deer bones; but the presence of these was probably not +intentional, as the whole arrangement seemed to have the nature of a +votive offering. This was the only perfect vessel found in the entire +course of the explorations. It is of the ordinary "cocoanut form," and +is represented in figure 6. + +Seventy feet in was a skeleton, on the left side; the bones were soft +and came out in small fragments. This was fully 6 feet below the +present surface, but some of this earth was piled up from earlier +excavations. + + [Illustration: FIG. 6.--Pot from Goat Bluff Cave.] + +Beyond this point the ground had been dug over to such an extent that +further examination seemed useless, and the work was concluded. + +Throughout the deposit of black earth, ashes, and roof dust were +scattered irregularly arrowheads and knives of flint, some types of +which are seen in plate 10; mussel shells; fragments of bones from +food animals; bone perforators, some of which are shown in plates 11 +and 12; potsherds; hammers; pestles; two or three mortars; a grooved +stone ax of granitic rock, presented in figure 7; and an abundance of +flint chips. + +There is a small cave near the top of the bluff facing the Gasconade, +a short distance above the mouth of Little Piney. Within a few yards +of the entrance earth and rock carried in from a sink on top of the +hill fill the cavity to the roof. Water runs through after every hard +rain. + + * * * * * + +Three small cairns, built of small stones, stood on the point of the +bluff at the junction of Little Piney and the Gasconade. All are +destroyed. + + * * * * * + +On the edge of a high cliff over the Gasconade, 2 miles north of +Arlington, are three cairns, destroyed. + + * * * * * + +In Bryant's Bluff, facing the Gasconade 3 miles below Jerome, are two +rock shelters, neither of them more than 20 feet across in any +direction. In both are shells, bones, and pottery; a rough stone +hammer was found in one. Exposure of bedrock on the outside shows that +the earth deposit in either is not over 2 or 3 feet deep. + + * * * * * + +On top of Bryant's Bluff are four cairns, all of them torn up. The +extreme limit of the scattered stone is about 20 feet; so the cairns +were probably 12 to 15 feet in diameter. + + * * * * * + +At the mouth of Turkey-pen Slough, 4 miles north of Arlington, is a +terrace with steep banks on two sides, next to the river and to the +slough. On this stood a village. Three house sites are plainly marked +by the refuse around, and there may be others; vegetation is very +dense. Mussel shells and burned stones are abundant, and many flint +implements have been picked up. + + [Illustration: FIG. 7.--Grooved ax from Goat Bluff Cave.] + + +CAIRNS AT SUGAR TREE CAMP (11) + +Six miles north of Arlington is a clubhouse known as Sugar Tree Camp. +A short distance from the building is a high vertical cliff rising +almost directly from the Gasconade. The top of this cliff, near the +front, is of solid rock, almost bare of timber or brush, and in a row +along it close to the edge are seven cairns, all now so defaced that +any attempt at investigation is useless. The smallest, at one end of +the row, is of the common circular form, about 12 feet in diameter. +Three others seem to be of the same type; but their appearance may be +due to their destruction. One is shown in plate 13, a. The other +three are walled vaults. The largest, at the other end of the row, was +built up like a foundation wall of sandstone slabs. It is rectangular +in form, measuring on the outside 16 by 28 feet. All the walls are +more or less destroyed; the small portion of one remaining is shown in +plate 13, b. Two "walled-up graves" reported on the first ridge north +of Sugar Tree Camp, and one reported on the first ridge south, never +existed. There is a small cairn on a high peak half a mile east of the +camp. + + +TICK CREEK CAVE + +In a ravine which joins Tick Creek about 2 miles from where the latter +flows into the Gasconade, and about 12 miles north of Arlington, is a +large cave known as the Saltpeter Cave. + +The opening is wide and high, but the mouth and floor are much +obstructed by large fallen rocks and the bottom is constantly wet from +wall to wall with running and seeping water. + +There is another entrance to this cavern around a corner of the bluff +and much higher up on its face. This opening is small and the sloping +passage from it to the cavern is almost closed in places by drip +formation. + +It was never inhabited. + + +CAVE IN POOL HOLLOW (12) + +A mile east of Newburg a ravine now known as Pool Hollow, but formerly +called "Strawhorn's" [Strawhan's] Hollow, opens into the right (north) +side of Little Piney. Two miles from the river is a cave at the head +of a little cove. The entrance, facing directly south and visible from +half a mile down the ravine, is 12 feet high and 75 feet across. The +rear wall, where the cave makes a turn at 150 feet from the mouth, is +plainly visible from the outside. + +At 60 feet within water reaches from wall to wall, and a constant +stream flows along the left side. The talus at the mouth is of tough +clay with many rocks scattered through it, and much of it has settled +back into the cave. Water drips from many places in the roof, so that +no part of the floor is ever entirely dry. + +Some broken flints and chips were picked up about the mouth and in +front of the cave, but nothing else could be found. + +In dry weather there might be spots which would afford a resting place +for campers, but no continuous occupancy was possible. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS NEAR ROLLA (13) + +Nearly 2 miles northeast of Rolla is the beginning of a little valley +which for a short distance is parallel with the Frisco Railway and +close to the right of way; it then turns to the southward. Along this +"draw" are numerous mounds, starting well toward its upper end and +following its course for nearly a mile. They lie along either side, +and reach into the tributary widenings. Most of them are on the flats; +but they are also scattered along the hillsides, those farthest from +the water having an elevation of about 50 feet above it. They vary +from 30 to 60 feet in diameter and from 1 to 3 feet high. In all, they +are scattered over an area of at least 100 acres. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS NEAR DILLON + +Half a mile west of Dillon a ravine heads at the Frisco track, goes +south a short distance, then turns southeastward. Near the track +begins a group of mounds which reach for fully a mile along both sides +of the little stream. + +There are more than 100, most of them small, though at least one is 60 +feet across and 3 feet high. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS NEAR ST. JAMES (14) + +At the northern border of St. James is a small shallow valley with a +northern and eastern trend, practically parallel with the Frisco +Railway, and for 3 miles or more not over a fourth of a mile from it +at any point. + +Starting near the Soldiers' Home is a group of mounds which extend for +fully 21/2 miles down both sides of the valley. + +Some are partly cut away by the stream, others are on the narrow flat +bottoms subject to overflow with every hard rain, still others are +built on the slopes to an elevation of 40 feet. They are somewhat +larger than the average, a diameter of about 60 feet and a height of 3 +feet being not uncommon. + + * * * + + +PULASKI COUNTY + +MCWILLIAMS CAVE (15) + +A cave on the McWilliams farm, near Jack Hinshaw's, at the upper end +of the Big Eddy, near the south line of Pulaski County, has an +entrance 8 feet high and 15 feet wide. There is a good light for 150 +feet, at which distance the cavern turns. It is an excellent location +for an Indian home, having a floor of dry earth, and a small amount of +refuse was found; but the earth has been thoroughly dug over in the +search for missing residents, some human bones rooted out by hogs +having given rise to a belief that these may have been murdered and +concealed here. + + +DAVIS CAVES (15) + +Facing Roubidoux Creek, on the farm of J.W. Davis, 3 miles north of +Cookville, are three caves. The largest is 40 or 50 feet above the +foot of the bluff. It has an entrance 30 feet wide, the roof being 8 +feet high. It is well lighted to a depth of 120 feet, where it curves. +No refuse was observed, but the situation is favorable for habitation. + +Another cave, near this, has an entrance 30 feet wide and 10 feet +high; it is well lighted for 40 feet back. + +The third cave of this series is a rock shelter a short distance south +of the second, and higher up in the bluff. + +All these appear to deserve an examination. + + +BERRY CAVE + +A cave on George Berry's land, in a ravine opening into the east side +of Roubidoux Creek, 3 miles from Hanna post office, has a small +entrance which is nearly closed by "drip rock," the roof, walls, and +floor being thickly incrusted. These deposits, which it is said are +even more abundant farther in, seem to be rather rapidly increasing in +volume. + + +MAXEY CAVE (16) + +What is known as Maxey's Cave is 7 miles south of Waynesville, on the +west side of Roubidoux Creek. It is by far the largest open cave in +this region, the entrance being 40 feet high and 100 feet wide. It +extends across the head of a ravine, and if the loose earth at the +sides were cleared away it would be found still wider. The entire +floor is covered with a mass of rocks of every size up to several +tons, except at one side of the entrance where there is a small amount +of loose earth. The front chamber is 300 feet long to where the cavern +forks; in one of these forks daylight extends for 100 feet farther, or +400 feet from the mouth. Marks on the walls show that the entire floor +is sometimes covered 2 or 3 feet deep with running water. + +A survey made some years ago disclosed a mass of earth and rock "a +long ways back in the hill;" definite figures could not be obtained. +Beyond this point it was impossible to proceed. By running +corresponding angles and lines on the surface outside the surveyors +came to a very large sink hole, into which flowed the drainage of +several farms. This explains the flood marks. Clearly the roof of the +cave had fallen in at this point. + + +YOARK CAVE + +Yoark Cave, a fourth of a mile east from Maxey's in a bluff facing +south on the left bank of Roubidoux Creek, has an entrance 40 feet +wide, 30 feet high, and is in daylight for 150 feet. Cave earth +extends for 100 feet from the entrance, and apparently continues from +this point under the gravel and clay which have washed from the +interior. + +It is on the land of A.L. Foote, having been in his family +continuously since it was secured by Government patent. The name is +derived from "Grandma Martha Yoark," who was among the earliest white +settlers in the region. Her home was on the opposite side of the +creek, in a pioneer log cabin, the last vestige of which, except the +stones of the chimney, disappeared before the Civil War. + +In the front portion many large rocks are lying on the surface of the +clay floor and others are imbedded in it; probably still others are +entirely covered. Farther back the clay is mixed with gravel washed +from the interior. This deposit is never entirely dry and in rainy +seasons is quite muddy. The difficulty of removing or digging under +the rocks, added to the certainty that water would be encountered +before the bottom is reached, render useless any effort at complete +excavation. The amount of refuse on the surface, however, is a good +indication that such researches as would be possible in the upper +layers, among the rocks, would disclose a large quantity of aboriginal +remains of comparatively modern date. + + +GRAVES AT LAUGHLIN'S (17) + +On the Laughlin goat ranch, 6 miles southeast of Waynesville, a high +narrow ridge level along the top and sloping abruptly on each side +extends northward from the hills on the right side of Roubidoux Creek +and terminates in a vertical cliff. Bedrock projects on the top and on +both sides, and vegetation is so scanty that the crest is almost a +"bald." + +On the summit of this ridge are seven cairns, the first one only a few +feet from the edge of the cliff, the last one about 300 feet back, +near where the ground begins to ascend toward the plateau. They are +small, none more than 3 feet high, and all have a depression in the +top where the stones have been thrown out from the center toward the +outside by relic seekers and rabbit hunters. + +In three of them flat stones remaining in place at parts of the margin +indicate that an irregular square inclosure was constructed around the +bodies, as in those examined at Gourd Creek. Possibly this feature +existed in all of them at the time of their construction, but there +was no evidence that any of them had been walled up like those at +Sugar Tree Camp or the Devil's Elbow. Views of their present +conditions are shown in plate 14. + + +KERR CAVE (17) + +Near the site of Kerr's Mill, on Roubidoux Creek, 5 miles south-east +of Waynesville, is a cave at the foot of a bluff, the entrance 60 feet +above the bottom of the hill. Viewed from the outside it has the +appearance of a rock shelter 40 feet wide and 45 feet deep. Above +most of it the stratum forming the roof is 15 feet high; near the +front the successive overlying strata project in a hollow curve until +at the face of the bluff the drop from the ledge to the talus +immediately beneath it is fully 50 feet. + +At one side, near the rear, is a passage 5 or 6 feet wide, not visible +from the front, extending back into the hill. Although the cave is +usually dry, clean gravel in this passage shows that sufficient water +flows through at times to prevent earth from accumulating; further +evidence of which fact is found in the mud cracks of the floor and the +ferns growing amid the rocks, large and small, which cover it. + +The place could never have been occupied except for temporary shelter, +and there is no evidence that even this use was made of it. + + +SELL CAVE (18) + +Half a mile directly south of Waynesville, on the farm of Dr. W.J. +Sell, is a cave located in the northern end of a ridge entirely +detached from the surrounding hills. The entrance, facing northeast, +is halfway up the point of the ridge, overlooking a fertile bottom +along Roubidoux Creek. From the top of the ledge over the entrance the +hill has an easy upgrade for a fourth of a mile to the summit, which +is at an elevation of 250 feet above the creek. On top of the hill is +the site of an Indian village where some mortars, grinding stones, and +numerous flints have been found. + +The roof of the cave has partially fallen in at the entrance, forming +a re-entrant curve 30 feet across and extending 11 feet inward; the +large blocks from this, and from the stratum described later, were +lying on and in the talus at the present front but did not extend to +the red clay beneath. Some of the blocks could be reduced with a heavy +sledge hammer to an extent that made it possible to roll them out of +the way; but 24 of them had to be broken up with dynamite. + +The talus at its thickest part has a depth of 6 feet; it extends down +the hill on the outside and has washed back into the cave, gradually +decreasing in quantity, to a distance of 50 feet. The roof, at the +front, is 5 feet above the talus; the thickness of the ledge forming +it is only 8 feet, the slope of the hill starting from this line. +Owing to the restricted width of the ridge, on top, the entire area +draining over the ledge measures only 70 feet in width above the +entrance, and narrows irregularly to a breadth of 30 feet at an +outcrop 120 feet up the hill, or with an approximate space of 6,000 +square feet. On this small tract more than half the rock is bare, with +scanty patches of soil and humus in the crevices and on flat places. +At the present time the water which flows over the ledge during hard +rains is scarcely turbid; consequently a period of several centuries +was required for the debris to accumulate. + +Fourteen feet back from the farthest-receding part of the curve of the +roof at the front is the edge of a stratum 3 feet thick; the bottom of +this was 3 feet above the talus immediately beneath it. This stratum +is continuous, with a perceptible dip to the interior, as far as it +can be seen. + +The width of the cave at the mouth is 44 feet; 30 feet within it +widens to 51 feet. A small amount of water making its way from the +interior over the level floor collects in a little basin scooped out +to receive it, and sinks into the floor near the inner foot of the +talus 55 feet from the entrance. At this point the width of the cave +is 36 feet; the height to the roof is 41/2 feet. As the floor beyond +here is soft mud, the cavern was not followed farther. + +Owing to the limited space between the floor and the roof it was +necessary to remove the excavated earth to the outside. The water +which flows from the hill and falls upon the talus during rains also +had to be provided against. A trench 4 feet wide at the bottom, with +sufficient slant to the sides to prevent them from falling in, was +started 25 feet out from the entrance, on a level which gave it a +depth of 61/2 feet at the highest point of the talus, thus carrying it a +few inches into the clay which was the original floor of the cave. +This depth also brought it well below the level of the little pool +inside. When its greatest depth was reached the excavation was at once +widened to 25 feet, thus reaching well toward the cliff on either +side. Growing trees and large rocks made a greater width here +impracticable. + +In the talus were flint implements, none small enough for arrowheads, +some well finished, others roughly made, a few being shown in plate +15; three sandstone mortars and fragments of four others; probably 100 +cobblestones used as hammers and pestles, some of them pitted on the +sides, a few showing marks of much use (pl. 16, A); a small, very +solid piece of hematite worn round by use as a hammer; a small, +imperfect tomahawk made of quartzite (pl. 16, B, a); many mussel +shells, some used as knives and scrapers; animal bones, some of them +worked into implements, including a perfect skiver (pl. 16, B, b); +several pieces of hematite and limonite used as paint stones (pl. 16, +B, c); many fragments of pottery, some of them worked into disks and +perforated (pl. 16, B, d); occasionally small deposits of charcoal, +ashes, and burned earth. The meager amount of artificial material, and +its random distribution, as if one piece was lost here, another thrown +there, throughout the talus from the present surface to the underlying +clay would appear good evidence that the cave was never used as a +place of permanent abode, but merely provided temporary refuge at +intervals extending over a prolonged period. + + [Illustration: PLATE 14 + CAIRNS ON ROUBIDOUX CREEK, SIX MILES FROM WAYNESVILLE, MO.] + + [Illustration: PLATE 15 + FLINTS FROM SELL CAVE, NEAR WAYNESVILLE, MO.] + + [Illustration: PLATE 16 + A, Pestles or grinding stones + B, Celt, pottery disks, paint stones, and skiver + OBJECTS FROM SELL CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 17 + Skull from Sell cave. a, Front; b, profile + Skull from Bell's cave, near Waynesville. c, Front; d, profile + Skull from Miller's cave. e, Front; f, profile + THREE SKULLS FROM PULASKI COUNTY, MO.] + +None of the pottery was decorated in any way, though most of it was +cord-marked; no piece was found which had a handle or a foot. +Nearly half a bushel of pieces was found, fragments of many different +vessels, with a range in thickness from one-eighth to three-fourths of +an inch. + +If all this talus were examined, much material might be found, but the +result would not justify the labor. + +Fifteen feet west from the east corner of the cave, 8 feet within the +edge of the roof, 31/2 feet under the surface of the debris, which was a +foot lower here than at the highest point, was a bundled or bunched +skeleton; only small fragments of arm and leg bones, most of the lower +jaw, a little of the upper jaw, and traces of skull were remaining. +The bones were small but solid. They were packed tightly in the dark, +wax-like clay, but there were no indications of a grave; the earth in +contact with them could not be distinguished from that lying around +them. The body had been crowded into the smallest possible space, with +the head against a large stone. All the teeth were well preserved, +some of them not at all worn. Small fragments of deer bones were found +among the remains; these, also, were very soft and decayed. + +In fact, all bones found, whether human or other, in this wet, tough, +heavy earth were nearly destroyed, and such portions as remained had +but little more consistency than the mud in which they were imbedded. +Much care was necessary in order to get them out. + +Sixteen feet from the entrance, 13 feet from the east wall, 41/2 feet +down, 18 inches above bottom, were part of a large femur and a few +fragments of other bones too small and crushed to identify. + +Seven feet southwest of this femur, 14 inches lower, was a closely +folded skeleton, the skull nearly north, the other bones toward the +east wall. Some mussel shells, fragments of deer bones, and two flint +knives were near the head. The body had been placed in a shallow hole +dug in the talus as it existed at that time, some earth thrown over +it, and small rocks piled on. The covering rocks were under 3 feet of +detritus, washed in since they were placed there. Near the knees was a +piece of antler, neatly perforated, with rounded ends, giving it the +shape of a reniform bannerstone (fig. 8). This may have been an +ornament, an arrow-shaft straightener, or the holder for a drill or a +fire-stick. Near it was a polishing stone deeply worn on both sides +(fig. 9). + +Twenty-two feet within the reentrant curve at the front, 20 feet from +the west wall, at the bottom of the talus, was a skeleton, the skull +in small fragments, which, however, were held in place by the tough +clay. The teeth were worn below the enamel in places; two well-worked +flint knives and one rough one (fig. 10) were near it. The bones +looked as if they had been thrown in, occupying only a small space; +but probably a folded body had been laid in on the left side. + +At 24 feet from the entrance, 17 feet from the west wall, in a hole +dug to 20 inches below the present surface of the talus, were broken +and spongy bones of an adult. Pelvis, feet, and leg bones were in +confusion; the tibiae were reversed in position, but it may be that the +body was laid on the back with the knees flexed and that the bones had +fallen as they were found. This is probable, as each patella was where +it belonged, and the body lay extended toward the southeast, as shown +by the position of the skull. The humerus was about 12 inches long; +all the bones were in small pieces. There were many mussel shells +among and above the remains, over which earth and small rocks had been +piled. + + [Illustration: FIG. 8.--Perforated object of antler from Sell + Cave.] + +Two feet south of this skeleton and a few inches lower were the +crushed and decayed bones of an old person with the head lying toward +the east. The one tooth found (a molar) was worn entirely below the +enamel except for a small space at the front; the dentine was polished +until it resembled a piece of agate. Mr. De Lancey Gill first remarked +the fact that wear of this character denotes that the individual did +not gnaw bones, crack nuts, or indeed bite hard on any substance. If +he had done so this thin shred of enamel would have broken off. Two +large rocks which lay on the head and body seem to have been thus +placed before the grave was filled with earth. + + [Illustration: FIG. 9.--Rubbing or polishing stone from Sell + Cave.] + +Near these bones were fragments indicating three other interments; the +humerus of the last was perforated. + +Other arm bones found showed the same olecranal perforation. + +Twenty-one feet from the entrance, 19 feet from the east wall, was a +skeleton, closely folded, on left side, head toward rear of cave. The +teeth were worn flat. The bones were crushed by rocks laid on or above +the body at the time of burial, as was the case with all the skeletons +found in this part of the cave; probably timbers had been interposed. + + [Illustration: PLATE 18 + TEETH FROM SELL CAVE AND OTHER CAVES, SHOWING MANNER AND AMOUNT OF + WEAR] + + [Illustration: PLATE 19 + TEETH FROM SELL CAVE AND OTHER CAVES, SHOWING MANNER AND AMOUNT OF + WEAR] + +Near the surface, 18 feet from the entrance, 14 feet from the east +wall, were the right half of a skull and of a lower jaw; a few small, +scattered pieces of skull were found near them. The teeth were much +worn, some of them were decayed, and two had the roots swollen and +distorted by ulceration. South of the skull were fragments of feet and +leg bones, probably belonging with it. This interment was of much +later date than the others. + +Thirty-two feet from the front, 16 feet from the east wall, 21/2 feet +below the surface, and a foot above the bottom of the talus, was a +folded skeleton, on left side, head toward the interior of the cave, +face directly upward. So much of the skull as could be recovered is +shown in plate 17, a, b. The teeth were much worn, the bones broken, +soft and spongy, falling away with the clay as it was removed from +about them. The femur was about 171/2 inches long. + + [Illustration: FIG. 10.--Flints from Sell Cave.] + +Wear of teeth among aboriginal people does not of necessity denote a +great age for the individual. Grit from ashes and fine sand from +mortars and pestles will cut away the enamel to a much greater extent +than would result from the use of ordinary food. + +The condition of the teeth mentioned, as well as of some from other +localities, is shown in plates 18 and 19. + +From the inner end of the ditch, or runway, at the entrance the +excavation was carried back for 40 feet in a direct line; or making +allowance for passing around a massive rock which was in a position +where it could not be blasted, for 43 feet; the depth of the talus +here was 3 feet. + +On the east side the talus was removed to the wall, a distance of 28 +feet from the edge of the trench, and the wall rock exposed for 22 +feet, to the rear bank of the excavation. + + * * * * * + +All work, so far, had been carried on at a level a few inches below +the bottom of the talus, which rested directly upon the floor of clay +washed out from the interior of the cave. + +Beginning next at the outer end of the trench, the entire space +included in the first excavation was deepened by a little more than 6 +feet, giving a new floor about 13 feet lower than the highest part of +the talus. All the material thus removed showed that it was laid down +by flowing water, sometimes so quiet as to deposit clay of impalpable +fineness, sometimes with a velocity sufficient to carry stones +weighing 3 or 4 pounds. The material varied--red clay, now jointed, +was the topmost layer; below it, in patches and layers, were dark +earth, resembling soil; clay of different shades of yellow, brown, +red, and gray, sometimes almost blue; some of it uniform, some of it +mingled, one or any or all of the different sorts in small compass; +deposits of one sort filling sharply defined channels or potholes cut +in some other sort; occasionally there was a slight admixture of sand. +All included limestone pebbles, which were plentiful in some deposits +but entirely absent from others, were weathered to a chalky +consistency, the larger ones to a depth of perhaps half an inch, the +smaller ones throughout. Scarcely any chert was included, although it +is abundant on the hill; the few pieces seen were very small. + +It took five weeks of steady work, with two men, to clear out the +second level. In all this clay there was not the slightest trace of +bone or other indication that living beings of any kind had existed +either in the cave or in any place from which the clay had come. + +At 24 feet from the eastern side of the trench, projections on the +face of the east wall denoted that bed rock was not far away. A hole 8 +feet across, at the rear of the excavation, reached sand with a slight +admixture of clay a few inches under the level at which the work was +being conducted; and 4 feet down, or 17 feet from the top of the +talus, the rock was found. It was rough and furrowed, like a solid +stratum that has been long exposed to atmospheric weathering. + +Further exploration was useless. The sand results from disintegration +of the Roubidoux sandstone belonging next above the limestone in which +the cave was formed. None of this remains on the hill; it has all been +carried away by erosion. There is not now any sink hole or crevice +above the level of the cavern through which the sand could have made +its way. Such an opening must have existed at one time, on the slope +at one side or the other, or farther back where the hill is now cut +off. In either case, erosion has carried away its walls and filled up +the channel leading from it, and thus obliterated its site. To +accomplish this would require a long time; enough to produce a +considerable alteration in the topography, and so to predicate for the +bottom deposits in the cave an antiquity far beyond the possible +appearance of man in the region. + + +PHILLIPS CAVE + +The Phillips Cave faces Roubidoux Creek near the Big Spring, a mile +south of Waynesville. Access to the interior is possible only by +crawling some distance on wet clay. Other caves in the same line of +bluffs are either very small or almost inaccessible. No refuse appears +about any of them. + + +BELL'S CAVE (18) + +In the upper part of the bluff bordering Roubidoux Creek just west of +Waynesville, on the farm of Robert A. Bell, are numerous caves, most +of them quite small. One, much larger than any of the others, has an +entrance 27 feet wide and 12 feet high. The floor is of earth mingled +with small rocks, and rises gradually toward the rear until at 70 feet +it almost reaches the roof, although the open space enlarges farther +in. The width of the cave varies from 19 to 32 feet. Several large +rocks have fallen from the roof and walls at a comparatively recent +date, as they lie directly upon the earth or are only slightly +imbedded in it. + +Shells and flint flakes occur in small amount, but the cave is so +difficult of access that it was probably but little used. + +Some human bones, rooted out by hogs, were scattered over the floor; +only a few remained, the hogs having chewed up most of them. Part of a +femur belonged to a person about 18 or 20 years of age. A skull and +part of a lower jaw, lying several feet apart but belonging to the +same individual, were secured; they are shown in plate 17, c, d. Few +of the teeth remained, though all had been in place at the time of +interment. + + +CAMP-GROUND CAVE + +This is three-fourths of a mile west from Waynesville. It is small, +with a muddy bottom, and could never have been occupied. + + +BUCHER CAVE + +Bucher Cave is 2 miles northeast of Waynesville. It has a small, low +entrance, nearly closed by a pile of chert gravel mixed with some +clay, which has been carried by surface water from the slope above. + + +GRAVES NEAR MCKENNAN'S + +On a low spur, projecting about halfway up a high hill opposite +McKennan's house, 21/2 miles northeast of Waynesville, are two of the +ordinary stone graves or cairns, both small. One has been torn apart; +the other is intact. + +They are mentioned only because in the one which has not been +disturbed the stones are sunken at the center, affording good evidence +that timbers were placed over the corpse before the stones were piled +up. + + +ROUBIDOUX CAVE (19) + +In a vertical bluff overlooking the junction of Roubidoux Creek and +the Gasconade River is a cavern with a high, wide entrance giving +access to a large chamber which has several smaller but well-lighted +rooms opening into it. There was formerly a considerable depth of +earth on the rock bottom, but most of it has been taken out for +fertilizer. What is left is dry near the entrance, but wet farther in. +Although it would make an ideal Indian home, being easy of access and +within a few rods of the two streams, there could be found no +indications of such habitation; and owing to the small amount of earth +remaining, the presence of many large rocks, and the close proximity +of a large club house on the public highway immediately in front, no +excavation is possible. + +A cairn on the point of the cliff over this cave has been completely +demolished. + + +RICHLAND CAVE (20) + +There is a large cave at the head of a ravine a fourth of a mile below +the bridge over the Gasconade River, on the Richland and Hanna road, +71/2 miles from Richland. The entrance is 70 feet wide and 40 feet high; +daylight extends to a point 200 feet within, where the cave divides +into two parts, both of which turn abruptly. Cave earth near the +entrance on one side is scanty in quantity, damp and moldy; but beyond +this it is dry, unevenly surfaced, and appears to have been somewhat +disturbed. There is considerable refuse on and in the dry earth as far +back as the inner end of the front chamber, and were it not for the +many rocks, too large to be removed, which cover nearly the entire +floor and would make excavation very difficult and incomplete, the +deposits would probably repay investigation. + + +ROLLINS CAVES (19) + +On the farm of Sam T. Rollins, 21/2 miles northwest of Waynesville, are +two large caves. + +The first, in a bluff facing the Gasconade, half a mile above the +mouth of Roubidoux Creek, is 50 feet above the bottom of the hill. The +entrance, toward the northeast, is 45 feet wide and 36 feet high. The +sides are parallel for 45 feet; at that point the east wall abruptly +recedes for 12 feet and then continues in a curving line for 120 feet +farther, to an outlet in the side of a shallow ravine trending toward +the west. This opening, 13 feet wide, is filled nearly to the top with +debris which slopes steeply for 40 feet into the cave. + +The west wall, at 45 feet, makes an outward curve to a branch which +leads northwest for 25 feet and has an opening on the side of the hill +25 feet wide and 20 feet high; the talus at the front is 12 feet high +and slopes steeply into the cave. Beyond this branch the west wall +extends in a straight line to the small outlet at the ravine. + +The floor of the cave has a gentle incline from the bottom of the +debris in the rear to the main entrance. + +No refuse could be found in the cave or around any of the three +entrances; and the place would not be suitable for a shelter in winter +as the wind, no matter from what direction, blows directly through it. + +The second cave is near the foot of the hill, half a mile up the river +from the first. A gentle slope in front leads to the bottom land along +the stream. The entrance, toward the northwest, is 60 feet wide and 10 +feet high. At 65 feet within is standing water; marks in a channel +along the west wall show that at times there is an outflow with a +depth of a foot or more. At the front is a great amount of talus +partly fallen from the ledge forming the roof, partly washed down from +the hillside; the outer slope is 20 feet high, the inner slope has a +slight incline to the standing water. The entire deposit within the +cave and in front of it is of tough, sticky clay. Many large rocks lie +on the surface or slightly imbedded, and large trees grow on the +talus. No indications of occupancy could be discovered. + + +MIX CAVE (21) + +On the Mix farm, half a mile below the Gasconade bridge on the +Waynesville and Crocker road, on the left (west) side, at the head of +a ravine, is a cave with an entrance 75 feet wide and 20 feet high. +Cave earth, apparently not more than 3 feet thick at any point, +although it gradually rises to a level 6 feet higher than the floor at +the mouth, extends back 80 feet; beyond this is water-soaked clay and +gravel reaching 60 feet farther to a turn in the cave, making a +distance of about 140 feet in daylight. There is a shallow channel 12 +feet wide along the east wall from the gravel to the entrance; +evidence that at times a volume of water of that width flows out of +the cave. The cave earth is damp for several feet from the line of +its contact with the clay, a certain indication that its lower portion +is saturated. + +Much refuse, including several mortars, is distributed over the floor, +and it is especially apparent in the bed of the little stream; but +fully half the surface is covered with rocks too large to be removed, +and these, together with the water, will effectually prevent +satisfactory excavation. + +One of the mortars has a grinding cavity on one face 12 by 20 inches +and 3 inches deep at the middle; on the other face, which has been +pecked, apparently with a flint tool, to make it level and even, is +also a cavity, but it is small and shallow, showing that this side of +the stone was but little used. + + +DOUBLE CAVE (21) + +On Walter Miller's farm, 11/2 miles below the Crocker and Waynesville +bridge, on the left side of the river, is the "Double Cave," so called +for the reason that it has two entrances. The one farthest down the +river is more nearly in line with the general trend of the cavern. Its +opening is 35 feet wide and 20 feet high. At 40 feet in from the +mouth, on the left or up-river side, the two parts of the cavern +unite, a triangular partition of the original limestone strata +separating them up to the point of junction. Across the apex of the +triangle the main cave is 50 feet wide; there is no vertical wall on +the right (east) side along this portion, the roof sloping down +gradually until it meets the earth floor; it may extend farther, +making the cave that much wider at the bedrock bottom. The cave earth +at its highest point is fully 10 feet higher than at the entrance; but +this may not mean that it is 10 feet deeper, for there are indications +that the rock floor also rises from the entrance toward the interior. +Digging in the front part of the main cave--that is, in the portion +behind the lower entrance--would be impracticable owing to the huge +rocks, some of them lying on the floor, others deeply imbedded in the +earth; consequently part of them, at least, fell while the cave was +inhabited. + +From the junction of the two branches the cave earth extends back 60 +feet to clay and gravel washed down from the interior; there is ample +light at this point, and for some distance beyond. In part, this +gravel seems to overlie the loose earth; it is still depositing, and +the manner in which the various materials intermingle and overlap at +their meeting place indicates that the cave earth to some extent +underlies the gravel and clay. This feature is worth investigating, as +it might have a bearing upon the relative age of the cave deposits. + +The entrance to the branch cave is 20 feet higher in the face of the +bluff than that of the main cave, and consequently much above any +water flowing from the interior; it is 20 feet wide by 15 feet high. +Measured along the east wall, it is 40 feet from this entrance to the +apex of the triangle separating the two parts of the cavern. The +greatest width of the united caves, 70 feet, is just beyond this +point. The earth floor in the branch, a fine-grained yellow earth +apparently deposited by quiet or gently flowing water, is 3 feet +higher than it is at the highest point farther back in the cave, and +is 4 feet or more higher than the bedrock at the front. No direct +communication is possible, in front, from one entrance to the other. +The only means of transference is by passing through the caverns +around the triangular partition, or by going down to the talus from +one opening and then up to the other; though only a few feet of +descent is necessary. There is an easy passage to and from the +Gasconade, which flows at the foot of the bluff; and a good path in +either direction to the top of the hill. + +Very little refuse occurs, and the site is not worth examining. + + +RAILROAD CAVE + +On railway property, north of the Gasconade River on the east of the +Waynesville and Crocker road, is a noted cave which "runs clear +through the hill," and can be entered from either end. From the +descriptions given it certainly could never have been utilized as a +dwelling place. + + +BAT, OR PAGE, CAVE + +Bat Cave, so named because it formerly harbored immense numbers of +bats, is on Robert Page's land, 41/2 miles from Crocker, near the +Waynesville road. The entrance is 40 feet wide and 30 feet high. Cave +earth extends for more than 200 feet in plain daylight; at this depth +the cave separates into two branches, one directly over the other. The +lower division continues into the hill on a level; the upper rises at +a slight angle; neither is high enough to permit a man to stand erect. + +The greatest width, a few rods from the front, is 55 feet. A drainage +channel near one wall shows a considerable outflow in wet weather. In +the low, vertical bank of this drain, gravel and small rocks are +mingled with the earth in such quantity as to comprise more than half +the mass. But this is probably due to the fact that a large quantity +of earth, mostly, of course, from the upper part of the deposits, has +been taken away for fertilizer. Neither in the bank of the little +channel nor about the pits left by this digging is any refuse to be +seen, and there is none about the entrance. So, in spite of its +suitability for residential purposes and its favorable situation, it +does not seem ever to have been utilized. + + +TUNNEL CAVE (22) + +A fourth of a mile from the Bat Cave is a natural tunnel or +underground passage which has its beginning in a deep sink hole half a +mile away on the farther side of the hill. Into this depression pours +all the water that comes through a ravine more than 4 miles long, +receiving several tributaries on the way; thus draining several +hundred acres of steep hillsides from which storm water runs off +almost as quickly as from a roof. From the sink hole it passes into +the upper end of the tunnel, an opening 10 feet high and 20 feet wide. +Trash and drift around this inlet show that the water rises above its +top. + +The lower opening of the tunnel is a beautiful, regular arch, 100 feet +wide and 50 feet high. For some distance in, the interior is so choked +with huge rocks, which reach almost to the roof near one side at the +front, that it resembles a great quarry. Gravel, sand, and driftwood, +including a large log 15 feet long, are piled on these rocks to a +height of 20 feet. + + +BROOKS CAVE + +Brooks Cave, 11 miles southeast of Waynesville, has an entrance +through a sink hole in a level field. It is small and dark for some +distance back, and was never occupied. + +Openings of this character are never the original mouths of caverns; +they are due to the roof falling in at a point where it has become +thin by wearing away from below. + + +RIDDLE CAVE + +Riddle Cave is on John W. Schord's farm, near Wildwood. The entrance +is through a sink, similar to that at Brooks Cave, and is due to the +same causes. It could never have been occupied. + + +LANE'S CAVE + +Somewhat more than a mile north of Big Piney post office is a cave +known as Lane's Cave. Near it is a smaller cave; also a rock shelter. +They are all small, high up in the cliff, hard to reach, and +unsuitable for living in. + + +DRY CREEK CAVE + +A cave on Dry Creek, north of Lane's Cave, is small and almost +inaccessible. Never used. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS (23) + +There is a group of house mounds, about 100 in number, close to the +site of the "Ranch House," which formerly stood near "The Falls" 4 +miles southwest from Big Piney. Two other groups, north of this one, +carry the mounds for about 4 miles along a little valley, which +extends north and south about midway between Big Piney and Bloodland. +Most of the mounds, in all the groups, are on the slight slopes +bordering either side of the little stream--which sometimes ceases to +flow--but a few of them are on the narrow strip of level land along +the banks. + +There is another group south of Bloodland. They were not learned of in +time to visit them. + + +RIDEN'S CAVE + +A mile southeast of the steel bridge across Big Piney, on the +Edenville road, is Riden's Cave, in a small ravine opening into +another ravine. The entrance is 25 feet wide and 8 feet high, and the +front chamber extends 30 feet to an abrupt turn. There are large rocks +on the floor near the mouth and some cave earth and a small amount of +refuse at the front. Apparently it was never occupied except as a +temporary camp. + + +SALTPETER CAVE + +Near Miller's Spring, 21/2 miles northeast of Big Piney, in a high +bluff, is a large cave whose name is derived from the quantity of +saltpeter collected from it in the early settlement of the country. +Earth for leaching was removed to such an extent that bedrock is now +exposed near the entrance and at several places within. In addition +many large rocks cumber the floor, consequently excavations would not +yield satisfactory results, although refuse still to be seen in the +cave and in front of it shows that it was a place of aboriginal +habitation. + + +MILLER'S CAVE (24) + +Three miles northeast of Big Piney is a cavern which from its +position, formation, and surroundings is particularly adapted to the +requirements of primitive people in search of a permanent shelter. It +is situated in a bluff rising from the left bank of Big Piney River, +200 feet above the level of that stream and half that distance below +the summit of the hill of which the bluff forms the front. It lies in +three different tracts of land, but the greater portion is on the farm +of Daniel S. Miller, who lives a little more than half a mile away. +For three generations it has been widely known as "Miller's Cave." It +opens toward the southeast, the river at this point flowing north of +east, and thus secures protection from the cold winds of winter, +receives the greatest amount of light through the day, and has the +advantage of sunshine at the season when this is most needed. Big +Piney, like all streams in the Ozark region, is extremely crooked and +its bed is a continuous succession of riffles and pools, or eddies as +they are locally known. In front of the cave is one of these pools +nearly a mile long and at lowest stages fully 15 feet deep in places; +even now it yields an abundance of fish, turtles, frogs, and mussels, +all of which are important items in the aboriginal dietary. + +A fourth of a mile above the cave Big Piney makes an abrupt turn, +coming to this point from the southeast. Here it receives the outflow +from a large spring located at the foot of the hill, a fourth of a +mile to the southward, which boils up in a pool 40 feet across and at +its lowest stage discharges several thousand gallons every hour. Its +volume responds quickly to a heavy rainfall and to the succeeding +period of fair weather, although its level never passes above or below +certain fixed points. A singular feature of this spring, one which has +given it a wide reputation, is its rhythmic ebb and flow. With +absolute regularity, regardless of atmospheric conditions, it swells +for six hours, then subsides for an equal period, stages of high and +low water occurring at the same hours every day. The extreme range of +level is about a foot. Intermittent springs are not uncommon; but the +regularity of this one is remarkable, particularly so as its action is +not affected by changes in the volume. A dam was built below this +spring by the father of Mr. Miller to furnish power for a mill; when +the mill was not running the noise of the falling water, reenforced by +the echoes from the hills around, could be heard a long distance and +gave it the title of Roaring Spring. The Indians had a name for it +which was interpreted by the whites as "Blowing Spring;" but as there +are no unusual currents of air in the vicinity it is probable the +proper translation would be "Breathing Spring," on account of its +recurrent motion. The branch from this spring, following a course +along the foot of the hill, is wide and shallow, though swift, and is +nearly filled with a dense growth of long, moss-like vegetation which +was greedily devoured by deer, herds of them being frequently seen in +the water by early settlers. + +From the mouth of the cave several hundred acres of fertile alluvial +land can be seen along both banks of the river. In the bottom land +lying nearest to the spring branch--which is itself entitled to be +called a creek--and extending southward to Miller's residence, partly +on an upper terrace, but mostly on the low land, was a village site on +which were formerly many small mounds which from the description were +undoubtedly house mounds. Mortars occur in numbers, while fragments of +pottery and flint, as well as many unbroken implements, were formerly +abundant to a depth of several inches. On the opposite side from the +cavern, in the angle formed by the abrupt turn of the river, is +another village site. A ditch, with an interior embankment about 6 +feet high, formerly extended in a curved line across the point. This +fortification was about 600 feet long, coming to the river bank at +either end. In the part thus protected were many low, small mounds +placed close together but quite irregularly. These were probably house +mounds. No trace of any of this artificial work is now apparent except +that a difference in color may be seen here and there when the soil is +freshly turned, all the earthworks having been plowed and dragged +level as interfering with cultivation. A great amount of broken +pottery, flint implements, and fragments of animal bones has been +uncovered here. In fact, the field is known locally as "the place +where the Indians made their pottery." This site seems to have been +occupied within historic times; after an unusual freshet some years +ago, many "round musket-balls, such as belonged to the old-fashioned +muzzle loaders"--"hundreds," or "two gallons," of them is the usual +version--were picked up where the loose soil had washed off. There is +a local tradition, long antedating the discovery of the bullets, that +a "battle" was fought here between the French and the Indians. + +On the hill over the cave are three cairns, but they have been so +searched through that scarcely a stone remains in its proper place. +There is also the site of a flint-working industry, a space 40 or 50 +feet across being strewn with spalls, flakes, and chips. + +When, in addition to the sustenance provided by deer and other large +game, there is taken into consideration the great numbers of wild +fowls which frequented the rugged hills and numerous streams; the +multitude of small mammals which found security in the myriad cavities +and crevices in the cliffs; the abundant food supply in the river; and +the further fact that so many mortars and pestles meant the +utilization of nuts and the cultivation of corn and no doubt of other +foodstuffs as well; it is apparent that the problem of mere +subsistence was one with which the natives had but little need to +concern themselves. That full recognition was accorded to these +advantages is amply attested by the great quantity of flints found +everywhere in the vicinity, the numerous workshops on the hills and in +the bottoms where the ground is thickly strewn with debris in every +stage from the intact nodule or block to the finished implement, and +the amount of refuse not only in this cavern, but in the Saltpeter +Cave in the same bluff and in the Freeman or Ramsey Cave 3 miles down +the river on the opposite side. Miller's Cave, however, possesses an +additional advantage, one probably not to be found elsewhere. This is +the absolute security of its inmates from the attack of an enemy. The +mouth of the cave is in the face of a perpendicular bluff, the wall +on either side so smooth that not even a squirrel can obtain a +foothold. The upper stratum of the precipice projects to such an +extent that a rope or a ladder let down from above would fall several +feet beyond the outer edge of the floor. Below, there is a vertical +drop of 30 feet to the top of the rough talus which is as steep as +rocks and earth will lie. If an assailant, by approaching from either +side, should reach the foot of this bluff he would offer a fair target +for stones rolled or hurled down by defenders who are safely out of +reach of missiles from any direction. + +The only means of entrance is a small opening in the west wall, +communicating with another cave. This is so restricted in size as to +permit the passage of only one person at a time, and he must assume a +crawling or crouching posture. This opening, which for distinction +will be called the doorway, has its top, sides, and bottom coated with +stalagmite formation; so it may once have been somewhat larger than at +present. The limited amount of the deposit over the natural rock at +either end of the orifice is evidence, however, that it could never +have been high enough for a man to walk through without stooping, or +wide enough for two persons to pass each other; consequently one man +armed with a club or other weapon could easily guard it against any +number who might attempt to enter. + +The cavern from which this opening leads, and which will be called the +outer cave, is close to and nearly parallel with the face of the +bluff, and its course is therefore approximately east and west, +forming nearly a right angle with the main cavern. It has a slight +curve, so that the doorway is not visible to one who is approaching +from the outside until he is within a few yards of it. + +The outer cave has its beginning at a point where the bluff bends +toward the north; that is, where there is a shallow reentrant curve, +formed by the face of the cliff breaking away at this part and rolling +down the hill; a considerable portion of this cave itself has been +thus destroyed, as shown by another entrance into the bluff beyond. +Much talus has accumulated in this cave, over which there is at +present a fairly easy though winding and zigzag path to the entrance +from the top of the hill, and a rough and difficult way from the +bottom. It is a natural presumption that dwellers in the cavern had +well-constructed though necessarily devious pathways of easy grade to +both the top and the bottom of the hill; but owing to the loose nature +of the debris on the outside slopes all trace of these, when abandoned +or no longer kept in repair, would soon be obliterated by surface +wash, landslides, and the roots of trees. + +By the side of the upper trail, at the bottom of the sandstone ledge +capping the hill, are many large blocks which have split off from this +stratum. On the flat surface of two of these are about 25 figures, +pecked into the stone apparently with a pointed flint implement. One +of them measuring 61/2 by 30 inches, shown in figure 11, bears some +resemblance to a flying bird. All the others are of uniform design, an +oval or elliptical figure with a straight line or bar passing through +an opening in one end. These vary from 4 to 18 inches in length; two +of them are shown in figure 12. Owing to the rough weathering of the +stones accurate tracings were not possible, but the illustrations give +a fairly correct idea of the inscriptions as they originally appeared. + + [Illustration: FIG. 11.--Incised figure in sandstone near Miller's + Cave.] + + [Illustration: FIG. 12.--Incised figures in sandstone near + Miller's Cave.] + +The front part of the outer cave is partially filled with large rocks, +gravel, and clay, which have fallen or been washed in. A window-like +opening on the right, or south, side admits additional light. Near the +inner end the cave divides, one branch going to the southeast and +opening in the face of the bluff, the other turning north and +terminating abruptly near the doorway, which is worn through its rear +wall. A rough diagram (fig. 13) with some measurements is appended to +show this cavern's peculiar structure. + + Feet. + Width at mouth (A) 17 + From mouth to "window" (B) 21 + Width of window (B), which has a very irregular outline 3 + From window to where cave divides (C) 39 + From corner of divide (c) to opposite corner (H) 13 + From corner (H) to rear wall 11 + Greatest width, from (B) to (F) 22 + Width from (C) to (G) 10 + From north wall near (G) to face of bluff (D) 28 + Height at mouth from talus to roof 8 + Height from floor to roof between (C) and (G) 13 + Lowest point in the cave (near C), below entrance (A) 7 + Mouth, at (D), lower than floor at (C) 4 + +A small amount of refuse on the floor suggested use of the outer cave +for residence or shelter; but excavations at several points uncovered +bedrock, with very irregular surface, at depths of 6 inches to 2 feet, +the earth containing very little refuse and no ashes. On the talus at +the entrance, and also at the bottom of the bluff in which the caves +open, is much refuse which the inmates threw out as rubbish. + + [Illustration: FIG. 13.--Plan of Miller's Cave.] + +The front chamber of the main cavern is quite regular in form, going +straight back like a vault for 80 feet, then turning abruptly westward +with a width of 47 feet, the west wall making almost a right angle at +the corner. The east wall abuts squarely against the rear; a narrow +crevice leads eastward from their junction, but as this was filled +with water and mud no exploration in it was attempted. + +The floor of the front chamber, from wall to wall, and from near the +front to within 27 feet of the rear, was entirely of ashes, no earth +being visible until the extremity of these at either end was reached. +The floor of the western extension is covered with fine earth, washed +in, which gradually increases in volume until it fills the cave to +within a foot of the roof. It was not examined beyond this point. + +Measurements show these dimensions: + + Width of cave at mouth feet 64 + Least width of cave, 24 feet from mouth do 45 + Greatest width of cave, from doorway to branch in + cave in eastern wall feet 74 + Shortest distance from line of least width to line + of greatest width, as given above feet 18 + From mouth of cave to doorway do 51 + Height of doorway inches 42 + Width of doorway do 33 + Length of floor of doorway do 56 Sec. + From mouth of cave to top of slope of ashes at rear feet 84 + From top to bottom of slope of ashes at rear do 16 + From foot of ash slope to rear wall do 27 + Extent of ashes in turn of cave along foot of wall + beyond corner of west wall feet 22 + Width of these ashes, from foot of wall to the + pool of water do 22 + Width of cave from corner of west wall to east wall do 56 + From corner of west wall to rear of cave do 47 + Height of extreme front from floor at edge of bluff + to most projecting ledge above feet 35 + Height from shelf or ledge near front of east wall + to general level of roof feet 14 + Height from ashes to roof at middle of cave do 10 + + Sec. This measure also represents the thinnest portion of the wall + separating the main cave from the outer cave. + +The walls were, as is usual in caverns, somewhat irregular, there +being a narrow bench or shelf along each side near the front, while +projections and indentations alternated from front to rear. There were +numerous small holes and crevices, enlargements of seams and joints by +percolating water at an early stage in the cave's history. These +furnish homes for various wild animals, and nearly all of them contain +bones, sticks, and trash taken in by ground hogs and wood rats which +seem to find much pleasure in carrying such things from place to +place. + +The work of excavation began at the extreme front of the cave, where +the original bottom, a mixture of sand, clay, and chert gravel, had +been exposed through removal of the ashes by winds and driving rain. +Almost immediately rocks, large and small, fallen from walls and roof, +were encountered and interfered greatly with the digging. In the upper +foot of the clay were streaks of sand and ashes, among which a mussel +shell and a flint chip were found; and the top of the clay was quite +uneven, appearing as if carried and thrown here, as perhaps some of it +was early in the occupancy of the cave, with the object of making a +more even or level floor farther back. But this admixture was only +superficial; below it, the material had all the appearance of a +running water deposit. + +A ledge extended along the east wall for 40 feet, with a width of 12 +to 14 feet; at the inner end it was about 4 feet below the general +level of the floor. At 8 feet below its top a second ledge projected +from it, sloping toward the center, slightly for 8 feet then more +rapidly for 10 feet farther, where it merged into the bedrock. Then +came level, nearly smooth rock for 18 feet, to the foot of the slope +of the west wall, 14 feet out from that side of the cave. This was +probably the original drainage channel. + +By the gradual erosion of new channels through the limestone and the +consequent abandonment of old ones, subterranean drainage is +continually altering its direction and force. In this way caverns may +be left entirely dry, with bare floors; or may, especially if they +receive the drainage of sink holes, be partially or even entirely +filled with debris thus carried in. Like others, Miller's Cave has +undergone such changes. It was begun by clear water; enlarged by +erosion and by breaking down of walls and roof; presently clay, sand, +and gravel were carried in; finally the water no longer flowed through +the front, but found its way out in some other direction. In time the +deposits became sufficiently dry to afford a good site for camps and +for permanent occupation. There is no way of ascertaining the rate at +which these changes took place; it may have required many centuries to +make an appreciable difference in appearance; or, on the other hand, +the transition from one stage to the next may have been rapid. + +Along the foot of the ledge from the east wall the clay was only a few +inches deep; farther out on the ledge, and on the projection extending +from it, were layers of red sand. Occasionally a small patch of it +appeared along the western side. Probably it was washed in among the +last of the natural deposits. + +There was considerable chert gravel mixed with the clay, making +excavation as difficult and laborious as digging up an old, +much-traveled macadamized highway. + +The surface of the ashes sloped upward rather rapidly for a distance +of 29 feet from the front. Kitchen refuse, found in them from the +start, contained many mussel shells; bones, including those of bear, +deer, panther, turkey, and other large fowls, tortoise, turtle, fish, +and various small mammals and birds; potsherds; broken flints, with +the debris of chipping work; mortars, pestles, hammers, and mullers. +Near the west wall, 14 feet from the mouth, imbedded in the ashes and +a foot below their surface, was a well-preserved cranium, shown in +plate 17, e, f. There were no other bones, not even the lower jaw; it +seems to have been thrown here and covered with the dumped ashes. + +At 18 feet from the mouth the rocks became larger and so numerous as +to be almost in contact, projecting above the ashes and imbedded in +the clay down to bedrock; they extended for 22 feet farther in and to +within 14 feet of the west wall. The clay attained its highest level +at the beginning of this pile of rocks, having an elevation of 9 feet +above bedrock; it became lower toward the interior, with its surface +everywhere rough and irregular. + +The rocks were too large to be either moved or broken up, and owing to +the condition of the roof an attempt to reduce them by blasting would +have been attended with great danger, so they were perforce left in +place and as much as possible of the clay between and under them dug +away. Beyond those near the front, others, not reaching the top, were +found one after another buried in the clay; owing to their constantly +increasing number, and to the inward slope of the east wall, the +limits of the excavation gradually narrowed, hampering the movements +of the workmen, and it was necessary to handle the earth two or even +three times to get it out of the way. There was growing risk, too, of +the projecting rocks splitting off or breaking out of the clay matrix. +As some of them weighed several tons, the danger became too imminent, +and efforts to continue along the bedrock had to cease. + +Two other attempts were made to get to the bottom; one at 40 feet from +the mouth just beyond the large rocks on the surface, and one at 15 +feet farther in. The last one started on an area 8 by 15 feet, which +would have been ample if the sides could have been carried down even +approximately straight. Neither of these efforts met with success, for +the same reason that led to the abandonment of the first one. + +From here to the end, examinations were confined to the deposit of +ashes. The surface, except as it had been disturbed by relic hunters, +was practically level from wall to wall, but the depth varied with the +undulating top of the clay beneath. Where it was deepest, in the +central portion about 50 to 75 feet from the mouth, the deposit had a +thickness of 6 feet. From this it diminished to about 3 feet on the +sides, with an occasional thinner patch on a narrow shelf formed by a +ledge or a crevice. The average thickness was close to 41/2 feet, so the +amount was not far from 800 cubic yards. This was composed entirely of +ashes from small fires for cooking, heating, and lighting purposes, +increased to a very limited extent by kitchen waste, and by discarded +or mislaid wrought objects. It represented the combustion of many +hundreds, perhaps of thousands, of cords of wood, all of which had to +be carried in from the hilltop or slopes and passed through the +constricted doorway. This labor would be a sufficient guarantee of +economical use; we may be sure that no fuel was wasted. If proof were +needed of such a self-evident proposition, it would be found in the +almost complete absence of charcoal; here and there, but seldom, a +small mass of it showed that a burning chunk, covered up, had +smoldered until the inflammable portion was consumed. Bunches or +handfuls of coarse grass or small weeds had undergone the same +process. Perhaps these had been used as kindling. + +In all the deeper parts the ashes had been dumped promiscuously, from +fires made at other points; no camping fires seem to have been made +along the middle of the cave until the depressions in the clay had +been at least partially filled. The ashes in the upper 4 feet of the +ash beds where these were deepest, and in nearly all the shallower +portions, were stratified and usually level, though at the front and +rear the strata followed the natural incline of the slopes. The first +impression was that the ashes had been carefully spread out, or +dragged, to make their surface even; but it was discovered, when +shoveling some of them for the second time, that ashes may assume this +appearance no matter how carelessly thrown. The ashes at the top, to a +depth of 3 or 4 inches, were as fine as flour, and when shoveled back +hung in clouds for hours at a time, to the great discomfort of the +excavators, whose eyes, throats, and nasal passages were in a state of +constant irritation. The stratified or laminated, hard-packed +condition below the loose surface means, perhaps, that they were +occasionally sprinkled and trampled by the occupants to prevent this +trouble. Possibly they were covered with mats, skins, weeds, or +leaves, in the parts where the inmates congregated. The loose, +incoherent condition of the lower portions, which "shoveled like +snow," may denote that only a few persons dwelt here at first, who +found ample room on the higher ground near the doorway. However, all +such attempts at explanations are not much better than mere guesswork, +and we must be content with accepting the facts as we find them. + +Where the ashes were white and packed hard, whether on the site of a +fire or in thin layers where thrown, they contained very little +extraneous material; whereas in the darker, more mixed material broken +bones, potsherds, shells, and other refuse were abundant, while there +was scarcely a cubic foot anywhere in which was not found a piece of +flint or bone, sometimes several such objects, which had been +intentionally altered from their natural condition. + +Near the center of the cave was a curving pile, 6 by 2 feet, and +several inches thick, of mussel shells of every size from less than an +inch to above 5 inches in length; more than half of them were over 3 +inches. None of them showed any marks of fire; some had both valves in +position, as if they had never been opened, and a few of the larger of +these had been filled with small shells and closed again. A few were +broken, but most of them were entire. About 1,400 valves were in this +pile, meaning that at least one-half of that number of mollusks were +consumed. + +The first interment was found at 46 feet from the front, 14 feet from +the east wall. The folded skeleton of a very old person lay on the +right side, head east, in loose ashes, on a large flat rock whose top +was 30 inches below the surface. This rock had not been placed here, +but had fallen from the ceiling; probably its existence was not known +until it was uncovered in digging the grave. The skull still retained +its shape, in part, being held in place by the ashes, but fell in +pieces when this support was removed. A portion of it was gone; two +fragments were found, several feet away, not near each other, one of +which fits in the skull, and the other probably belongs with it also. +The frontal bone is nearly half an inch thick; the sutures partially +obliterated; the teeth worn down to the necks, some of them nearly to +the bone; the forehead is low and receding. A restoration is seen in +plate 20, a, b. In addition to the missing portions of the skull, most +of the ribs, half of the lower jaw, and nearly all the dorsal vertebrae +were absent, probably having been dragged away by ground hogs. The +bones are all light and fragile. Lying above the skull, in contact +with it but supported by the ashes on both sides, was half of a large +mortar hollowed on both sides. Above the skeleton, and extending for +several feet on every side, was an undisturbed stratum of closely +packed ashes, 17 inches thick at the middle, which broke off under the +pick in large clods; these, of course, had accumulated after the body +was interred. + +The spongy condition of these bones, in spite of the preservative +action of the ashes, is evidence of the fact frequently noted, that +with advancing age some change takes place which renders them less +resistant to destructive influences. Bones of children only a few +weeks old near this skeleton held their structure perfectly and were +easily secured. + +Ten feet east from the pile of mussel shells, at a slightly lower +level, was nearly half a gallon of snail shells which had been boiled, +probably in soup. With them were a few pieces of bones. + +Scattered irregularly through the ashes were many cavities which +somewhat resembled the "postholes" so common beneath the mounds in +Ohio. Some were barely an inch in diameter and a foot deep; from this +size they varied indefinitely to the largest, which was a little more +than 3 feet deep, reaching from about a foot below the undisturbed +layers just under the loose surface ashes to within about a foot of +the bottom. "About" is used advisedly, because at this point neither +the top nor the bottom of undisturbed material could be determined +with certainty. The lower 2 feet of this cavity was uniformly 7 inches +across; above this it slightly expanded, funnel-like, to a diameter of +8 inches at the top. The sides of this, as of all of them, large or +small, were as smooth and hard as if made with a posthole digger or a +boring tool. Strata of ashes, not changing their level or appearance +in the least, were continuous around the margin. But the holes were +not always straight; some of them changed direction as if due to a +crooked post or stick. Nearly all of them were rounded, even +hemispherical at top or bottom, or both, like the bottom of a pot. +They were not molds, for nothing could have been taken out of them +without changing or destroying its form. If they had contained any +solid substance like a post it must have stood unchanged until the +layers of ashes surrounded and covered it, and then must have so +completely disappeared as to leave no trace of its existence. They +were not formed by driving any object down, because in that case the +bottom would not have been so regularly rounded and the ashes around +the sides would have been more or less displaced. They were not due to +burrowing animals. In fact, if there be imagined a nearly cylindrical +mass of ice, straight or slightly crooked, with rounded ends, placed +upright and retaining its position unmelted until completely buried, +the appearance of these cavities will best be understood. Some of them +were filled to the top with fine loose ashes which occasionally +contained fragments of bone, shell, and pottery; sometimes they were +nearly empty, with traces of decayed wood at the bottom, mingled with +a little ashes and charcoal. In one was found a long, perfect bone +perforator, shown at a in plate 30; in another near the corner of the +west wall was found the pipe shown in figure 14. About 45 feet from +the front near the east wall were four of them of different diameters +and depths but all in a straight line within a space 2 feet long; +these were in front of a crevice under an overhanging ledge where a +man could not stand upright. Wigwams may have been erected in the +cave, or at least skins stretched to prevent drafts or to confine the +heat of fires in winter and perhaps to insure some degree of privacy +if this were desired; but there are no present indications of such +shelters unless these holes were to secure them; otherwise their +purpose or object is still unsolved. They would probably not contain +posts for hanging things on when the walls afforded so many small +crevices and holes into which poles better adapted for such purposes +could be thrust. + + [Illustration: PLATE 20 + a, b, Skull from Miller's Cave, Pulaski County, Mo. (a, front; b, + profile). c, Part of skull of child from Miller's cave (front + view)] + + [Illustration: PLATE 21 + SKULL OF YOUNG WOMAN FROM MILLER'S CAVE a, Front; b, profile; c, + back] + +Other holes or depressions, shallow, saucer-shaped, or dish-shaped, +some dug in the underlying clay, others at any level almost to the top +of the ashes, were fire pits or cooking places, containing charcoal +and ashes. Two such depressions were lined with a coating of gumbo +half an inch thick, which, however, was not mixed with sand or shell. +Pots may have been shaped in these. Occasionally a small mass of +gumbo, never so much as a peck, sometimes as small as a pint measure, +would be found loose in the ashes, seemingly thrown there at random. +Two pieces were squeezed into a rough ball; one was patted or rolled +into a flattened sphere with a rounded depression on one side. These +were no doubt intended as material for making vessels, as was a +roughly cylindrical mass of red clay and pounded shell as large as a +quart cup--the "biscuit" of modern potters. + +About the middle of the cave a saucer-shaped depression, 4 feet across +and 10 inches deep at the center, had been dug in the red clay; ashes +had been deposited to a depth of 2 feet over this space before the +excavation of the hole was begun, and streaks of red clay lay at about +this level all around the pit. Many rocks, large and small, apparently +thrown in, were in this basin and above it. No fire had been made in +it; nothing buried; and the upper layers of ashes extended across it +unbroken. It forms another of the unsolved problems. + + [Illustration: FIG. 14.--Clay pipe from Miller's Cave.] + +In the den of a burrowing animal smaller than a ground hog was the +frontal bone and upper portion of the face of a child of 8 or 10 +years; 12 teeth are cut and others can be seen. It is shown in plate +20, c. Part of a cervical vertebra lay at the top of the skull, and +there were fragments of a few other bones. + +The ulna of a child, broken off at the wrist, was near the doorway in +a mass of refuse in a ground-hog burrow. For several feet in every +direction around here the ashes were traversed by the tunnels and dens +of these animals, some of them extending down into the clay. + +Twenty-five feet east of the doorway, a foot below the highest layer +of unbroken ashes, was the top and back of a thin skull. + +Sixty feet from the front, 15 feet from the east wall, at a depth of +14 inches, was a partial skeleton, lying on the back. The right arm, +folded, lay by the side; the left forearm across the pelvis. All bones +from the atlas to the sacrum, except some bones of the hands and +wrists and the left ulna, lay in such position as to show they had +been interred with the flesh on, or at least while the cartilages +held them together; but no trace of the skull--which had lain toward +the west--or of any part of the legs or feet was present. Fragments of +coarse cloth were adhering to the pelvis. The bones, which were almost +like punk, were those of a young person, the caps of the long bones +being separate from the shafts; but they were of good size, the +humerus being 13 inches long. The left ulna (at least a left ulna) lay +above where the face should have been, but some inches away, with one +end near the surface. It is quite probable that ground hogs are +responsible for the condition of this skeleton, and that some of the +bones found scattered in the ashes belonged to it. About a foot under +the bones, but not connected with the burial in any way, were three +large pieces of a large pot. + +Four feet east of this, a foot lower, was the skeleton of a baby, the +humerus only 31/2 inches long. The bones rolled out with some loose +ashes, and not all of them could be recovered. + +Thirteen feet from the east wall, 16 feet from top of rear slope of +the ashes, 4 feet below the surface was part of a skeleton. The bones +lay on a damp, close-packed bed of ashes 6 inches thick. They were +closely folded, the femurs and lower leg bones being in contact; the +skull, scapulae, right humerus, sacrum, and some of the vertebrae were +missing. Such bones as remained were in their proper positions, except +that the sternum lay in the pelvis and the elbows at the knees. All of +them were in a space only 18 by 22 inches, measuring to the outermost +points. The situation of such bones as remained indicated that part of +a skeleton had been buried after the flesh had decayed, or had been +removed, but while the joints were still united, and covered with +loose ashes, whose settling had caused some sagging of the stratified +ashes, a foot in thickness, which lay above them, there being no +evidence that they had been disturbed since they were placed here. All +were as light as cork and, except the left tibia, which was 151/2 inches +long, fell to pieces when taken up. + +Eight feet east from the last skeleton was one of a very young infant, +on left side, head toward the front of the cave. It was 21/2 feet below +the surface, partly under a jutting portion of a large rock whose top +was above the ashes. It lay on small angular rocks, with similar rocks +over it. + +Two feet west of this was the ulna of a child 10 years old. + +Sixteen feet from the east wall, 10 feet from top of rear slope, 2 +feet under surface was another infant's skeleton, lying on the back, +head toward the mouth of the cave. The femur was only 41/2 inches long. + +Fifteen feet from east wall, 8 feet from top of rear slope of ashes, a +little more than a foot below the surface, was the closely folded +skeleton of a woman between 20 and 25 years of age. It lay on the +right side, with the head east. The bones were in perfect condition, +even the coccyx being intact. All the teeth were present, solid, and +symmetrically set. Unbroken strata of ashes a foot thick above this +skeleton sagged somewhat owing to settling of loose ashes thrown +around and over the body at time of burial. The skull is shown, front, +profile, and back, in plate 21. + +A few inches below these bones, with ashes intervening, were piled +some bones of a child of about 8 years. The caps of the joints were +not adherent, and some of the teeth had not come through the bone. The +skull, which was intact, lay on left side, vertex north, ribs, arm +bones, and feet bones lay on the top, at the back, and at the vertex, +in contact with the skull and with one another. As there was no +evidence that they had ever been disturbed by animals, it would appear +that only the bones mentioned had been deposited; even the lower jaw +was absent. They lay in a mass of kitchen refuse, shells, burned +bones, charcoal, and ashes, the upper layers of which were curved as +if the bones had been laid on a level area of this mixed material and +the rest of it piled over them. Their position, and the small number +of them, indicates that the flesh had been used as food. The skull is +shown in plate 22. + +Between this partial skeleton and the complete one above it, +apparently thrown in with the refuse which covered and surrounded +both, were fragments of two large pelvic bones which did not belong to +either of them. + +Directly below these burials, 3 feet under the surface, was part of an +infant's skeleton, with five shell disk beads among the bones; the +only instance in which ornaments were found with human bones. The +skull and some other bones were present, but most of the remains had +disappeared into the runway of a burrower. + +At several places in the central parts of the cavern, at almost any +level between the top and the bottom of the ashes, were human bones, +singly or a few together, some of them apparently remains of +interments, others carried to the points where found. Most of these +scattered bones were of children or infants; but now and then larger +ones were found, notably two large adult tibiae which were a foot +apart. While a few of them may have been thrown in with the ashes, +most of this confusion resulted from the activity of rodents, though +some of it was due to desultory former investigations. + +At one point was the perfect lower jaw of a child 8 or 10 years old; +with it were a scapula and some vertebrae which may have belonged to +it, also some ribs, vertebrae, and arm bones of an infant. Two or three +of them bore marks of fire, especially an ulna of a child which was +completely charred. + +Four feet from east wall, 4 feet below surface, at the beginning of +the slope to the rear, was the skeleton of a child less than 2 years +old. It lay on left side, head east, legs bent, one arm folded with +hand by head, the other along the body; just such a position as would +be assumed by a sleeping infant. Some of the teeth were cut. All the +bones were in place, though soft and brittle; above them was an +unbroken stratum of ashes. + +Four feet west of this, 2 feet higher, was the skeleton of a still +younger child. + +Sixteen feet from east wall, at the beginning of slope to rear, near +the bottom of the ashes, was an adult's skeleton, extended on back, +head west. Three rocks, weighing from 75 to 300 pounds, were placed +over the body. Most of the bones had disappeared from decay; the +middle third of one tibia was much enlarged by disease, as shown in +plate 23. + +Eleven feet east of this, 4 feet below surface, was an adult skeleton, +folded, on right side, head toward rear of the cave. The bones were +spongy and soft. Portions of the feet and legs, most of the pelvis, +the left arm, and some of the vertebrae were present, but there was no +trace of right arm, skull, or shoulders. A slab weighing 100 pounds or +more was set on edge just where the head should have been. One tibia, +the only bone with both ends remaining, measured 141/2 inches. + +Near the wall, just beyond the break of the slope, was the entire +skeleton of a dog so old that its teeth were rounded and smooth. It +had been killed by a spear thrust entirely through its body, from the +right side, both scapulae being penetrated; the holes are three-fourths +of an inch in diameter. The skull of a fox was found near this, higher +in the ashes. + +Fifteen feet from east wall, halfway down the slope, 18 inches under +surface, was the skeleton of an infant only a few days old. No trace +of pelvis or right leg remained, though all the other bones were well +preserved. + +Twenty-four feet from east wall, at beginning of rear slope, was the +complete skeleton of a young child, extended, on back, head toward +rear of cave. The bones showed evidence of disease, as may be seen in +plate 23. The skull is shown in plate 24. + +Nineteen feet from east wall, 13 feet from foot of slope, was a hole +41/2 inches to 5 inches in diameter, 21 inches deep, extending into the +loose dark earth underlying the ashes. The bottom of the hole was +muddy, being at about the level of the standing water, and contained +charred and decayed remains of oak wood. Ashes, in layers having the +same slope as the surface, extended over it, proving the post (?) to +have been burned some time before the cave was abandoned. + + [Illustration: PLATE 22 + SKULL OF CHILD FROM MILLER'S CAVE + a, Front; b, profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 23 + DISEASED TIBIA OF ADULT AND DISEASED BONES OF CHILD FROM MILLER'S + CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 24 + SKULL OF CHILD FROM MILLER'S CAVE + a, Front; b, profile] + + [Illustration: PLATE 25 + CACHE OF FLINTS FROM ASH BED IN MILLER'S CAVE] + +West of the doorway a ledge, projecting from 4 to 6 feet, extended to +the west corner. It was covered 2 feet deep, or less, with ashes +containing the usual refuse. Large rocks lay on this, or had +fallen over it to the clay lying against its lower part, or into +the ashes on the clay. + +Near the west wall were four holes in an almost straight +north-and-south line. The first (1), was 29 feet north of the doorway, +18 inches deep and 7 inches in diameter. In it was the clay pipe shown +in figure 14. Number (2), 5 feet from (1), was 24 by 9 inches; No. (3) +2 feet from (2), was 26 by 7 inches; No. (4), 41/2 feet from (3), was 30 +by 5 inches. Fourteen inches northwest of No. (1) was another hole, 15 +by 3 inches. The description on a previous page as to character, +appearance, and contents applies to all these holes; the ashes +extended above all of them in continuous layers. + +A little to the west of No. (1) was a small pile of crumbling +fragments of sandstone and limestone used in boiling food. + +Near No. (4), a foot under the surface, on the slope, 15 feet from the +water, was a small pile of charcoal on which lay a human scapula, some +vertebrae, fragments of ribs, most of a humerus, and most of a femur of +a person not fully matured; they were of good size but the cap fell +away from the humerus when it was moved. Some of them were without +marks of fire, others were charred, while a few pieces were burned to +cinder. As the mass was surrounded by clean ashes, it could not be +determined whether the charcoal had been burned where found, or had +been carried here. Whichever it was, the bones had been thrown on the +pile. + +Thirteen feet just north from the corner of the west wall was a hole +19 by 7 inches which differed from the others in that the bottom +instead of being rounded was irregular, and deeper at one side; the +top, however, showed the usual hemispherical contour. + +Two feet from corner of west wall, almost under a point projecting +from it, 4 feet below surface, was a cranium from which the upper jaw, +one orbit, and part of the right parietal were missing; with it were a +lower jaw, a clavicle, a sternum, the bones of the left arm, and some +phalanges, all in good condition, except the ulna, which was broken. +No other bones were present. The skull lay on right side, face toward +the wall; the arm bones were on it, and the other bones by it. With +and around them were some deer bones. The entire lot had the +appearance of being thrown together here at one time, and it would +seem that the flesh of all of them had been eaten. + +Fourteen feet north from the corner, halfway down to the water, in the +wet earth at the bottom, were human bones evidently placed here +entire, but so decayed and broken that nothing could be ascertained +except that it seemed a closely folded body or skeleton had been +deposited. The teeth were worn down to the gums. + +The refuse behind the corner of the west wall was cleared away as far +as the conditions would permit. The amount of water at the rear of +the cave varies with the rainfall; sometimes it almost disappears, +again it may be fully 2 feet deep; but at all times the earth and +ashes near it are saturated above its lowest level. Consequently, on +account of the mud, excavations could not be carried fully to the end +in either direction. As scarcely anything was found in the last few +feet, this omission was not important. + +The entire distance worked over, from the front margin to the line +where no further advance could be made, at 14 feet from the water, was +91 feet. No spot that could be reached throughout this length was left +undug. + +The small openings in the west wall presented no features worthy of +special mention; but those in the east wall yielded interesting +results. + +First of these was a small cave 39 feet from the main entrance. At the +front its width was 11 feet; 6 feet within it narrowed to 4 feet. A +hole on the north side ended at a crevice that led to a chamber higher +up, from which, in turn, another crevice extended. All this space, +even beyond the point to which a man could worm his way, was filled +with fine earth and ashes containing much refuse. Worked objects were +found at the greatest distance which could be reached. + +A few feet within the entrance this minor cave divided into three +parts. A crevice trending northward is too small to follow. The two +others extend in a general easterly direction. The central branch, the +left of the two, also closes within a few feet. Neither of these +contained anything but natural earth. In the one to the right, 7 feet +from the entrance, was a pocket on the south side, 18 inches wide, 30 +inches high, and 4 feet deep; it was filled with ashes containing bone +and shell, but no worked object except a flake scraper. At intervals, +within the next few feet, were two mortars, a much used pestle, some +bone awls, and flints, all of them in places where it was scarcely +possible for a man to sit erect, as the tunnel-like cavity, +circumscribed by solid rock, was nowhere as much as 4 feet in +diameter. At its narrowest part it measured only 3 feet high and 18 +inches wide. + +At 20 feet the cave opens into a well-like enlargement, 5 by 6 feet, +and 5 feet high. Bone and shell in small amounts were found here, and +among them the skiver shown at d in plate 36. + +From this well-like cavity three branches start; one continuing in a +direct line east, one to the north, and one to the south. The east +(middle) branch is only 24 inches high and 17 inches wide, with solid +rock all around. It contained ashes, with a little refuse, as far as a +man could reach. + +The branch to the north is entered through an opening 3 feet high and +31 inches wide in a thin wall of the original rock, just within which +it widens to nearly 7 feet, holding the same height of 3 feet. Within +this doorway, on the red earth bottom, were a small mortar and a +grinding stone worn by much use; both were stained with red paint. A +foot farther in was part of a skiver; and 2 feet beyond this was a +large knife of white chert almost as clear and compact as chalcedony, +shown at a in plate 27. Ashes continued in the north tunnel for 26 +feet from the entrance, beyond which no further progress was possible. +Before this point was reached, the refuse which had been continually +decreasing in amount no longer appeared. + +The tunnel leading from the well toward the south is 19 inches high, 3 +feet 9 inches wide. At 3 feet it branches; one fork, 2 feet high and +17 inches wide, turns eastward and curves to join the east branch from +the well. The other branch continues south, but soon closes; in it +were found a small piece of an adult's skull and the hip bone of a +young child. + +The floors in all the branches of the small cave were covered from 3 +to 12 inches deep with a reddish mixture of sand and clay, on which +were ashes filling the space above almost to the roof. In a few places +refuse was found in this silt, of the same general character as that +in the ashes, but in very small amount. This is not significant; such +remains were dragged down by animals, which range everywhere. The two +deposits are quite separated and distinct. + +The clay and sand on the rock bottom came from disintegrated rock on +top of the ground outside, or at any rate from some level higher than +that where they are found now; but how ashes, shells, broken bone, and +especially how worked objects came to be in places too contracted for +a man to creep, and where they could be neither carried nor pushed, is +not to be explained except on the hypothesis of a chamber above, +whence they may have worked or may have been thrown down; but at no +place, either in the cave or in the outside surface, could there be +found any evidence of such communication. + +Fifty-five feet from the mouth of the cave, in the east wall, is a +crevice into whose lower portion extended the red clay of the cavern +floor. It branched into various tortuous divisions, all of which were +filled with ashes containing a large proportion of refuse. It appeared +at first that all this had settled in, or been thrown in, from the +main cavern; but one branch, having a very irregular outline, was in +such situation and trended upward at such an angle that it could not +have been filled from below. As in similar cases previously noted, +however, no other opening to it was to be found. The smallest workman +cleared it out to as great a distance as he could crawl and use a +trowel, but did not succeed in reaching the end of the deposits. + +At the bottom of the crevice were ground-hog burrows extending between +loose rocks, under ledges, and into the red clay. All these were +followed as far as they could be, and found to contain quantities of +refuse. There was also a considerable amount of fine dark earth in the +burrows, showing they have another outlet somewhere. Occasionally a +mass thrown out by a shovel or a trowel contained more refuse than +ashes. There was nearly everything which was found elsewhere in the +cave, and almost every shovelful contained something worth preserving. + +Near the rear of the cave erosion of the lower part of the eastern +wall formed a rudely triangular recess or cavity 30 feet long by 7 +feet deep at the widest part. The upper margin of this was below the +surface of the ashes, so that its existence was not suspected until +these had been removed from in front of it. The roof was 5 feet above +the rock bottom, the entire space being filled with loose material. +The upper 2 feet of this was clean ashes in which were great +quantities of refuse, so much that it had all the appearance of a +general dumping ground. Below this depth, patches of fine dark earth +were mingled with the ashes and refuse. The latter continually +decreased in quantity, until at a foot above the bottom they ceased +altogether, the lower portion of the deposit consisting of nothing but +earth. The pure ashes were slightly damp; and the moisture increased +with the depth until at a foot above the bottom the earth was +saturated and could no longer be removed with tools. + +The refuse in the ashes consisted of animal bones, entire or in +fragments; broken flints and pottery; mussel and snail shells; and +numerous wrought objects. These continued, though in smaller amount, +where the ashes were mingled with earth, though bones and shells were +soft owing to the moisture, and could be removed only in fragments. +Among them were the flint shown at a in plate 28, and the hematite ax, +at a, plate 29. The latter was at the lowest level to which the ashes +extended; perhaps its weight caused it to settle below the place at +which it originally lay. + +Near the middle of this chamber, 2 feet from the rear wall, lying at +the bottom of the mixed ashes and earth, were 12 entire and 3 broken +leaf-shaped blades; they were not closely piled, or arranged in any +order, but seem to have been hastily or carelessly laid or thrown on a +small space. Another was found a foot away. They are shown in plate +25. + + [Illustration: PLATE 26 FLINTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 27 FLINTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 28 FLINTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 29 AXES AND PESTLES FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + +Here and there among the refuse were found the upper jaw, with left +orbit, of a young person; a fragment of an occiput, perhaps belonging +with the above though not lying near it; fragments of the skull of a +young child; half of an ulna of a child probably 12 years old; a small +fragment of the lower jaw of an adult with one molar remaining in it, +which has been burned until black. These fragments were all in such +position and condition as to show they were not carried in by animals; +were not disinterred from graves and placed here; were not in any +way accidentally present; but had been gathered up with the refuse and +thrown in as a part of it. The broken or burned condition of these, as +well as of other human bones found at random among the ashes of the +main cave, are presumptive evidence that dwellers here sometimes +devoured the flesh of human beings; and the fact that a majority of +such bones are those of children indicates that it was not eaten +through a belief that the valor and skill of an enemy could be thus +absorbed by the victor, but that it was used as food, like the flesh +of any other animal. Such conclusion may not be justified; but the +facts are not readily accounted for otherwise, except on the equally +repulsive hypothesis that the inmates of the cave were brutally +indifferent to the bodies or skeletal remains of their fellows. + +Omitting this question from consideration, however, there is still +ample evidence that the inhabitants of Miller's Cave were in a low +state of savagery, or, if the phrase be preferred, in a very primitive +stage of culture. There was a remarkable paucity of articles used as +ornaments or for personal decoration, and the few that were found were +simple and crude, being only rubbed stones or rough pieces of bones +which were possibly intended for beads or pendants. The pottery, while +strong and serviceable, was plain in form and devoid of any +ornamentation or design except that a few pieces showed impressions +such as would be made by scratching or pressing with the end of a +small stick or bone. Nearly all of it was cord-marked, though some was +smooth, one red piece appearing almost glazed. It varied much in +thickness, hardness, and color. Most of it was dark gray, some red, +occasionally a piece yellowish or nearly white; due to the different +clays of which it was made. So far as observed it was tempered with +shell. The shards were small, as if when a pot was broken the +fragments were still further demolished. The curvature showed there +was a wide range in size, from about a pint to 2 gallons or more. + +Their mortars were natural blocks or slabs of sandstone, such as may +be picked up by thousands in the immediate neighborhood, and showed no +alteration of form beyond ordinary wear except that the rough faces of +a few were pecked, apparently with a pointed flint tool, to make them +less irregular. Some were flat and smooth from use with a muller or +grinding stone; most of them were worked or hollowed on only one face; +a few showed depressions on both sides; one had a few hemispherical +indentations near the margin, like those observed in cup-stones. + +Only one pestle was dressed into any of the forms which we are +accustomed to associate with the name, and this was a truncated cone +with rounded top, shown at b in plate 29. All the others were +cobblestones from ravines or the river shore. A few had undergone no +change in form; most of them were battered on the perimeter; a few had +pitted sides; some had been used as pestles, mullers, or grinding +stones until the surface was more or less smooth. All such stones are +classed as "pestles," for convenience; they could have also been used +as hammers, bone crushers, and in various other ways. + +In all, 73 mortars were found; counting only those stones which bore +marks of use as such. The largest one was at the bottom of the ashes, +near the doorway. There were more than 100 pestles which bore evidence +of much use; and probably as many more on which there was little or no +sign of wear. As the cavern was not of sufficient size to provide +living quarters for many families at any one time--10 or 12 at the +most--the large number of these utensils may imply that the inmates +would not use an object which had previously belonged to some one +else. + +Among the flint implements there was a wide range in the character of +stone, the shape, and the degree of finish, although the variation in +size was quite limited. Very few of them may be classed as either +large or small. The longest, shown at a in plate 28, measured 51/2 +inches; few were more than 4 or less than 2 inches. Tapering stems +predominated. The principal forms are shown in plates 26-28. Only +three arrowheads were found; but this was to be expected, as arrows +would be used only out of doors. One of these of clear, fine-grained +pink and white chert, shown at b in plate 28, so far surpasses in +delicate finish any other specimen secured that it is probably exotic. +The large number of cores, blocks, spalls, and flakes shows that many +implements were made and repaired here. But, while a few specimens +showed that their fabricators were masters of the chipping art, most +of them were roughly finished. Some which are so little altered from +the original form of the rough flake or spall that they would be +classed as "rejects" if found about a flint workshop have a smoothness +or "hand polish" which denotes much service. There is the possibility, +of course, that hunting or traveling parties from some other part of +the country may have availed themselves of the shelter, either when it +was temporarily unoccupied, or as guests of those living in it; and +that these, also, may have left some small articles when they +departed. However this may have been, all the objects from the top to +the bottom of the deposits, in dry ashes or in sticky mud, in crevices +or branch caverns, on the red clay, the barren muck, or the +bedrock--all, if we may except the few flints of superior +workmanship--are identical in general character: That is to say, any +object from any part of the deposited material had its practical +duplicate at various other points on different levels. + +Only three grooved axes and three pestles were found. They are shown +in plate 29, along with a cobblestone used as a pestle. + + [Illustration: PLATE 30 BONE IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 31 BONE IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 32 BONE IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 33 BONE IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 34 BONE AND ANTLER IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S + CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 35 ANTLER IMPLEMENTS FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 36 SKIVERS, SHOWING STAGES OF MANUFACTURE, + FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + + [Illustration: PLATE 37 SHELL SPOONS, POTTERY DISKS, AND BROKEN + SPOON MADE OF A DEER'S SKULL, FROM MILLER'S CAVE] + +The cave was especially rich in objects wrought from bone and antler. +A few of these are shown in plates 30-36 and figure 15. + + [Illustration: FIG. 15.--Perforated bone object from Miller's + Cave.] + +Plate 36 illustrates four stages in the manufacture of skivers. It +shows that instead of being always rubbed down from its natural form +the bone was sometimes split by blows of a stone hammer until +complete, subsequent smoothing probably resulting from use, as shown +by the implement at c. When skivers were broken, the ends were dressed +down for other uses; as observed in the upper row of plate 32. + +Shell spoons, knives, and scrapers were abundant. Some are shown in +plate 37, along with perforated pottery disks and the bowl of a spoon +made from the frontal bone of a deer. + +Figure 16 represents the only adz or gouge form implement found. It is +made of gray chert, the edge highly polished. In figure 17 is shown a +broken clay pipe, identical in form and material with that in figure +14. + + [Illustration: FIG. 16.--Adz or gouge of chert from Miller's + Cave.] + +The red clay which had formed the floor of the excavated area from the +mouth of the cavern to well past the central portion suddenly dipped +to the north and to the east shortly before reaching the corner of the +west wall. Attempts to follow it downward were frustrated by black +earth, which when dug with pick or shovel assumed the consistency of +"hog-wallow mud." + +For a space of 4 or 5 feet inside the doorway, whose floor was about 3 +feet higher than the average surface level in the cave, the ashes were +not more than a foot thick, the clay rising to this extent. It spread +out fan shape, with a continuous slope for several yards in every +direction, thus making an easy grade for entrance and exit. + +There are three ways in which this condition could have been brought +about. + +First, the aborigines may have constructed a graded way; though it is +not at all likely they would have piled the clay so far to each side. + +Secondly, it may have washed through the doorway from the outer cave +when the main outlet of the latter in the face of the bluff toward D +(fig. 13) was obstructed in some way. This is improbable. + +Thirdly, it may be due to material deposited in the eddy or swirl +created by the corner of the west wall whenever a large volume of +drainage water flowed from the westward in the main cave and was +sharply deflected toward the south when it struck the east wall. This +is no doubt the correct explanation. + +Whether or not these floods had any part in piling up the clay at the +doorway, beyond doubt it was to them that the clay, gravel, and sand +resting upon the floor of the main cave owe their origin. To them is +likewise due the dark earth overlying the clay at the rear and +covering the floor of the recess in the east wall. Clearly, there was +at one time in the cave's history a current at intervals, which +carried mud and small rocks from the interior of the cave, or from the +outside surface through sink holes, and left at least a part of it +where the velocity of the stream was checked. Later, much of this +water found other drainage channels, and the coarser matter could no +longer be carried into the cave; but at times of unusually heavy +precipitation enough of the torrent followed the old course to bring +in the dark earth. The last is due to top soil containing a large +amount of humus from decaying vegetation. Finally, no more water came +this way except as seepage, which is the condition at present. + +[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Clay pipe from Miller's Cave.] + +The pool at the rear may be entirely empty in dry seasons; and after +heavy rains may contain a depth of 2 feet. This water now has a greasy +looking scum and a sour, unpleasant odor. + +The cave was inhabited before the water had entirely ceased to flow +through it; this is proven by the alternation of refuse and silt in +the recess under the east wall. Kitchen waste would be thrown here, +and when the water rose sediment would cover it. There was then dry +ground near the doorway; and the water in the pool, having an outlet +toward the east, through the crevice, was fit for use, except, +perhaps, when turbid. + +On the rear slope, 18 feet from the water, the excavation was carried +to the level of the bottom of the pool. The lower 2 feet was mud, and +at the bottom water oozed in. Scattered through this muddy earth was +much charcoal in small fragments; and for a short distance it also +occurred for a few inches below the surface of the red clay. This +charcoal was carried in by the water at the same time as the earth +with which it was associated, and must be due to fires on the hill +outside. At any rate, it did not come from any fires made within the +cavern. No refuse or worked objects of any kind were found in this +black earth, except in the recess in the east wall, as described, and +in the upper portion immediately under the ashes. Such as existed +outside the recess may have become mixed in the same way; that is, by +being thrown on the top as it existed at the moment and being later +covered by the water; or it may have worked in from the ashes above. +Nor was there much refuse in the ashes on the rear slope, although +these were quite regularly stratified. + +To entirely remove the rocks and clay and expose in a satisfactory +manner the bedrock floor would require months of labor, the use of +mechanical appliances, and complete drainage to the rear wall through +the mouth of the cave. + +Without attempting to make a detailed list, there may be given a +summary of the objects shipped to the National Museum: + + 12 skulls, most of them more or less broken. + 10 partial skeletons, including those of children. + 8 fragments of skulls from different individuals not included in the + above. + 74 objects of shell. + 711 worked flint objects; knives, scrapers, cores, etc. + 10 grooved axes, tomahawks, and flint hammers. + 10 mortars. + 40 pestles, stone hammers, rubbing stones, etc. + 413 wrought objects of bone and stag horn. + 2 clay pipes. + 1 box of pottery fragments. + A number of small objects, not classified. + +There were left in the cavern several hundred broken flints; more than +60 mortars; probably 200 stones used as pestles, hammers, etc., and +several large wagonloads of shell, bone, and broken pottery. + +There is no way in which the age of the deposits in either the Miller +or the Sells Cave can be determined. The accumulation of ashes in the +one and of talus at the front of the other would certainly imply the +lapse of several centuries, perhaps a thousand years of continuous +occupation. Intermittent habitation would lengthen this period. + + +RAMSEY'S CAVE + +Ramsey's Cave, better known as Freeman's Cave, is in a bluff on the +right bank of Big Piney River, 3 miles below Miller's Cave. It is +about 150 feet above the level of the stream and the same below the +summit of the hill behind it. Within a hundred yards to east and west +are shallow ravines by which access is fairly easy to a ledge nearly +on the same level as the cave; this is wide enough for one person to +traverse, but in most places too narrow for two abreast. The talus in +front is rough and steep but a crooked path with no difficult grades +can be made to the water. + +Chambers on each side near the entrance, which are accessible only by +means of a ladder, provide excellent living quarters and command +approach from any direction, even along the foot of the cliff on +either side. + +The entrance, which faces southwest, is a symmetrical arch 75 feet +wide and 20 feet high. + +Bedrock shows just in front, covered with loose material washed over +the cliff. The floor ascends and the roof descends toward the rear, +until at 70 feet they approach within 6 feet of each other; beyond +this the cave is choked with fallen rocks and with earth and gravel +probably from a sink hole some distance back on top of the hill. + +Refuse shows about the entrance and for 40 feet toward the rear, where +earth from the interior has worked down over it. The surface is strewn +with rocks, large and small, so that excavations are possible only in +small areas. Several holes were dug at intervals between the front and +the rear; a considerable amount of ashes was found over the middle +portion, thrown from still farther back. Very little was found in +them. The rock bottom slopes upward slightly and was covered in some +places with clay and gravel, on which lay the ashes and other refuse; +these were nowhere more than 3 feet deep, and usually much thinner. + +The place was so difficult to work in and the returns were so scanty +that systematic investigation did not seem warranted, and the work was +not extended. The only objects secured were a bone perforator, part of +another one, a snail shell, apparently a bead, a very small piece of +sandstone used as a grinder or polisher for bones, a fragment of +worked mussel shell, and nine rough flints. There were also a few +small fragments of pottery. + +A man living near the cave reported that a few years ago he was +digging in a narrow space between the east wall and a large fallen +rock. He came upon the feet of two skeletons and took out the lower +leg bones. Being assured by a friend that these were not bones of +Indians because they were not "red," and so must be remains of white +people, he replaced them and threw the earth back on them. He was +certain the spot had never since been disturbed; but in this he was +mistaken, for investigation revealed a pile of human bones lying in +confusion, in which the frames of two individuals, as he had said, +were mingled; but no trace of the skull or jaw of either. Evidently +some one had come afterwards in search of the skulls. The femur of the +larger individual was just 19 inches long; the other frame was much +smaller; but all other bones were in such fragmentary condition they +could not be measured. + +There is a rock shelter a short distance down the river from the +Ramsey Cave and in the same ledge. It is 45 feet long, 15 feet deep, +and 8 feet high in front, the roof coming down to the floor at the +rear. There is nothing to show that it was ever used, even as a +camping place. + + * * * * * + +A fourth of a mile above this cave is another from which flows a +never-failing spring. There is a pile of ashes near the front, +containing some refuse, but these mark only the site of an occasional +camp, as the place could not be occupied in wet weather. + + +GRAHAM CAVE + +On Graham's land, high up in a bluff facing Big Piney, opposite the +mouth of Spring Creek, is a small cave difficult to reach and not +suitable for occupancy. + + +PILLMAN'S OR SPRING CREEK, CAVE (25) + +At the mouth of Spring Creek, on land of John Pillman, near the top of +the bluff, is a cave with an entrance 30 feet wide and 30 feet high. A +steep rock ledge at the front offers an impassable obstacle to any +stock except goats. The front chamber is well lighted for a distance +of 80 feet, where it makes a turn. Bedrock is exposed near the +entrance and rises toward the rear, showing here and there through the +covering of earth, which is not more than 2 feet deep anywhere. Water +cracks appear even in the highest spots, proving the floor to be +saturated at times. There is considerable refuse inside the cave, but +none in front, and it is reported that human skeletons have been found +in it. If so they must have been on a ledge or in a crevice. Plate 2, +a, shows the hill, from the west; plate 2, b, the entrance to the +cave. + +Two large cairns stood on top of the bluff above the cave. So far as +can be determined in their dilapidated condition, there seems to have +been a row of stones inclosing a definite area, but it is impossible +to ascertain with certainty whether this was the case. + +On a lower ridge, to the north, are three similar but smaller cairns. +These are constructed entirely of sandstone slabs, and there was +plainly some sort of system used in placing them; but, as in the case +of the first, it can not now be determined whether there was a +continuous wall, and, if so, whether it was more than one stone high. + + * * * * * + +A village site is reported in the river bottom on David Thomas's farm +on the Big Piney, near Moab. + +There were cairns, now totally destroyed, at two places on the ridge +over which passes the road from Devil's Elbow to Spring Creek. + + +WOODLAND HOLLOW CAVE + +A minor ravine, known as Woodland Hollow, opens into a small unnamed +creek a mile above its junction with Big Piney River at the Devil's +Elbow. In the west slope of this ravine is a large cave, named from +its location. Through the middle part the floor is muddy; along the +wall on the left, dry cave earth, with a width of 20 to 30 feet, +extends for 70 feet from the entrance, its surface 4 feet above the +level of the wet floor. A smaller amount of dry earth lies along the +opposite wall. The sides of the cavern recede at the bottom, the dry +earth passing under them. No estimate can be made as to the total +depth of the deposits. At the mouth of a ground-hog burrow were two +bone perforators, potsherds, fragments of bones, and pieces of worked +flint, including two knives, which had been thrown out by the animal. +Two mortar stones were found on the margin of the dry earth. + +The cave belongs to Philip Becker, of St. Louis, who peremptorily +refused to allow any examination whatever to be made; the only case in +the whole region where cheerful permission was not given for any +amount of excavation desired. + +Three cairns, all demolished, stood on the Stuart property, half a +mile from Woodland Cave. + + * * * * * + +There is a cairn on top of Lost Hill, half a mile south of Blue, or +Shanghai, Spring on Big Piney. + + +WALLED GRAVES AT DEVIL'S ELBOW (26) + +Three miles above the point at which it passes out of the hills into +the bottom lands on its way to the Gasconade, the Big Piney River +doubles on itself with an abrupt curve, which raftsmen have named "The +Devil's Elbow." For more than a mile above and below this bend the +stream flows in opposite directions in nearly parallel east and west +channels around the foot of a spur from the high land to the west. + +Into the Elbow, on its outer curve, three ravines from the east and +southeast open within a fourth of a mile. They form the boundaries of +two very narrow ridges or "hog-backs," which terminate in precipitous +slopes near the river. For some distance back from the points the +limestone bedrock crops out, a slight accumulation of earth in the +crevices supporting a scanty covering of weeds but being insufficient +to permit the growth of trees or bushes; hence the term "balds" by +which they are locally known. The ridges have a gradual and nearly +uniform slope toward the summit of the hill, which lies half a mile +to the eastward. The sandstone capping the hill appears within a few +hundred feet and is covered with an abundant growth. On the upland are +many large trees. + +The ridge farthest south, on the farm of Joseph Ross, has five stone +graves along the crest, numbered here in their order from the bluff. +Number (1) is a few rods below the sandstone outcrop, and is +constructed partly of weathered limestone blocks such as are now lying +around it and partly of sandstone slabs carried from farther up the +hill. All the other cairns, although (2) and (3) stand on the +limestone bedrock, are built entirely of sandstone fragments ranging +from the size of a brick or smaller to pieces weighing over 200 +pounds. + +At first sight the cairns appeared to be only piles of stones thrown +together; but more careful inspection showed that each burial place +was outlined by a wall, laid up with as much regularity as was +practicable with the material at hand, and inclosing a space +approximately square. Measuring from face to face of their walls, the +spaces between these cairns were as follows: (1) to (2), 21 feet; (2) +to (3), 19 feet; (3) to (4), 36 feet; (4) to (5), 34 feet. + +Not one of these walls was intact at the time of examination; hunters +had torn away portions of all of them in pursuit of small animals +which had sought refuge among the stones; and such parts as were not +thus injured were more or less displaced by roots of trees penetrating +in every direction the soil which had accumulated in the open spaces. + +So far as could be judged in their chaotic condition, the first step +in their construction was to lay a row of slabs around the area +required; then another row upon this; and the work was continued in +this manner until the desired height was reached. As a rule, the +stones were so laid as to break joints and to interlock at the +corners, for greater stability; but in a few places this was not done. +If a stone, once laid up, did not fit as it should, the builders +apparently did not take the trouble to replace it with another better +suited to the requirements. Seemingly, care was taken to build in such +a manner that each outer face should be vertical, and in a straight +line from corner to corner; but the inner side was left rough and +irregular according to the shape and size of the blocks, no attempt +being made to even it up. If timbers of any kind had been laid across +the top, resting on the walls, there remained no indication of the +fact. However, the bodies may have been protected at the time of +interment by small vaults or pens constructed of poles, whose decay +would allow the stones to settle, and of which no traces would now be +left. + +The space inclosed by the walls was filled with loose stones lying in +such disorder as to suggest that they had been carelessly or hastily +thrown in to fill the interior and round up the top; but some of this +confusion may have resulted from the same causes by which the walls +were defaced. + +It does not appear that any stones had been piled against the outside +of the walls to assist in retaining them in place; such as were found +in this position were either thrown there by the present inhabitants +or had fallen from the top. + +Two of the cairns, the second and the third in order, were so torn up +and overgrown that no investigation of them was attempted; the three +others were fully examined. + + +CAIRN (1) + +In the first, that nearest the terminus of the ridge, all stones lying +against the outside of the structure were thrown aside, bringing the +outer face into plain view. The inclosure thus revealed resembled the +rude foundation of a small building. Measuring from corner to corner +the north wall was 14 feet long, the south wall 16 feet, the east wall +14 feet, the west wall 13 feet. The walls were as straight and the +corners as square as they could well be made with surface rocks not +trimmed or dressed from their natural rough condition. + +The space within was next freed of stones; the topmost were 3 feet +above the outside level, though no doubt higher when first piled. The +inside measurements were: North wall 10 feet, south wall 10 feet, east +wall 9 feet, west wall 9 feet; all measurements being approximate, as +no definite boundaries could be determined. + +The south wall was practically destroyed; the others were not much +injured, but no longer plumb, as they undoubtedly were when +constructed. The east wall was in best condition; the outer face was +nearly vertical; the top of the highest stone remaining in it was 28 +inches above the bottom of the lowest. The general appearance of the +wall indicates that it was somewhat higher. + +After the stones were thrown out there remained a deposit of loose +material, composed to some extent of very scanty soil and of humus +from decayed weeds and leaves, but principally of disintegrated +sandstone which had settled or washed in. Its thickness above bedrock +was about 16 inches. All this was carefully examined. + +Near the center, a few inches above the natural bedrock, were some +fragments of human bones which seemed to belong to two adults. Another +adult body, or skeleton, bundled or closely folded, had been placed +against the south wall, which had partially fallen in on it. Pieces of +long bones, including heads of two femurs, the ends of the bones at an +elbow, phalanges, and a fragment of rib were found in a space less +than a foot across. Nothing more of them remained and nothing else was +found. + + +CAIRN (4) + +The fourth grave in order was worked out in the same manner as the +first. On the outer face the north wall measured 14 feet, the south +wall 151/2 feet, the east wall 16 feet, the west wall 14 feet. The +interior lengths were: North wall 12 feet, south wall 111/2 feet, east +wall 12 feet, west wall 11 feet. + +Near the center were a few fragments of bone, with a columella bead 4 +inches long, perforated lengthwise. It is shown in figure 18. To the +east of these, also to the south, were other fragments, indicating, in +all, at least three interments. + + [Illustration: FIG. 18.--Columella bead from Cairn (4), Devil's + Elbow.] + + +CAIRN (5) + +In grave No. 5 the walls on the north and the south were entirely torn +out except some stones in the bottom row of each; the upper portions +of the east and the west walls were also gone. For this reason the +rocks lying outside the structure were not removed. + +The north wall, outside, was 15 feet long; the south wall, 14 feet; +the east wall, 16 feet; the west wall, 141/2 feet. The corresponding +inner measurements were, north wall, 10 feet; south wall, 10 feet; +east wall, 12 feet; west wall, 12 feet. But as the position of the +corners was uncertain these figures are no doubt somewhat in error in +either direction. + +The central portion had never been disturbed, the stones lying as they +were put originally, except for a possible settling due to their +weight; the top of the rounded heap was about 4 feet high. This +justified the hope that something might be discovered beneath them. +But although the entire space within, up to the fairly defined inner +faces of the walls, was thoroughly cleaned out down into the untouched +gravelly subsoil, no trace of a bone or other indication of a burial +was found. The only artificial object was a section 31/4 inches long of +a columella perforated lengthwise, apparently lost by the wearer, as +it lay on the natural surface. This is shown in figure 19. + + [Illustration: FIG. 19.--Columella bead from Cairn (5), Devil's + Elbow.] + + +CAIRNS ON HELM'S FARM + +To the north of the Ross farm, on the ridge which is owned by Daniel +Helm, are three stone graves made of shapeless limestone blocks such +as cover the surface around them. One of these is about 300 yards +from the bluff, on a knoll capped with the sandstone; the others are +at the break of the ridge. All have been opened, two of them +practically demolished. Those on the end of the ridge are only 14 feet +apart, measuring from their adjacent margins, and were about 16 and 20 +feet in diameter as built, both being somewhat widened now owing to +the stones having been thrown outward from the central parts by +hunters. Each was probably 3 feet high. + +The smaller, being least defaced and nearly free from timber, was +entirely removed, except a small portion along one margin, and the +earth beneath it examined down to the bedrock. There was no sign of a +wall; but one that would stand could not be made with stones rounded +by weathering. + +Remains of at least three bodies were found. One was laid in a +crevice; only a few fragments of the long bones were left. With scraps +of bone from another body were four teeth worn almost to the roots. +They were not close together, but this was due to small burrowing +animals which had scattered them. Of the third body, a few pieces of +arm and leg bones remained. By itself, loose in the earth, was a +single molar, not in the least worn, and with a very small root. + +So far as appearances go, it seems the bodies were laid on outcropping +rock, or in crevices, and stones piled on them without any attempt at +order or arrangement. + +The graves on the Helm farm are merely piles of stone, such as are +found in various States. Those on the Ross place are of the same type +as the cairns on Lost Hill at the mouth of Gourd Creek in Phelps +County, but of a more advanced form. In both places flat stones were +laid to inclose the burials. At Lost Hill, however, there was seldom +more than a single layer, while at the Devil's Elbow a regular wall +was built, seven superposed slabs being observed at one point with a +certainty that others had been placed above these. They are not of the +same class as the walled graves found in earth mounds along the +Missouri River. In the latter, the inner face of the wall was as +smooth and regular as it could be made, the outside being rough and +upheld by stones and earth piled against them; while in those on Big +Piney care was taken with the outer face which, it seems, was intended +to be left exposed to view, while the inside was rough and hidden by +stones thrown in. But no inference must be drawn from the different +methods of filling or covering the vaults after they were completed. +Along the Missouri, earth was abundant right at hand, but stones had, +as a rule, to be carried some distance; while on the bluffs of the +Gasconade and its tributaries the reverse was the case. + +Petroglyphs, 75 feet above the level of the river bottom, are reported +to be cut in a bluff facing the Gasconade River on the east side, 2 +miles below the mouth of Big Piney. + + * * * * * + +A rock shelter not more than 15 feet wide and 10 feet deep is near the +top of the bluff overlooking the Gasconade, almost opposite the mouth +of Big Piney. It contains a quantity of ashes, but as it was +frequently resorted to by bushwhackers during the Civil War, and is +still much used by trappers and hunters who camp in it, these are +probably not due to Indians. + + +ASH CAVE + +So near to the county line that there is some uncertainty as to +whether it lies in Pulaski or Phelps County is Ash Cave in a bluff +over Baker's Lake, an artificial pond, 4 miles west of Arlington. The +cave is small, and notwithstanding its name it contains no ashes or +other remains of occupancy. The great number of large rocks on the +floor makes examination impossible. + + +CLEMMENS CREEK CAVE (27) + +At the head of a ravine opening into Clemmens Creek, about 4 miles +south of Dixon, near the Piquet orchards, is a cavern with an entrance +55 feet wide and 40 feet high. The depth is 110 feet to loose rocks +and clay, partly from the sides and roof, partly washed in through +side caves and crevices. There is a small amount of cave earth along +one wall, but it is damp, moldy, and covered with a growth of minute +green fungus. Most of the floor, however, is of clay strewn with loose +rocks and swept over by water at times. + +There is no refuse, and the cave was never fit for habitation. + + +CAMDEN COUNTY + +ALONG THE NIANGUA RIVER (28) + +It is widely known that many caverns exist along the Niangua River and +its tributaries, in Camden County, especially in the vicinity of +Hahatonka, or, as it is locally termed, "Tonky." This is one of the +show places of Missouri. The name includes a post office; a store; a +school; an immense spring coming out at the foot of a cliff; the creek +formed by this spring; a lake of several hundred acres, made by +damming the creek; a picturesque ruined mill with the usual +accessories of such a building; numerous caves; and a magnificent, but +unfinished, residence crowning one of the hills. This has already +called for an expenditure of half a million dollars; and at least +double that sum, additional, will be required to complete it in +accordance with the original plans. Whether it be due to the national +appreciation of architectural beauty or the national appreciation of +ability to do things in a large way, the palace seems to impress most +visitors more than the remarkable combination of natural features. + +The principal caves in the vicinity have distinctive names, as "Onyx" +(there being two thus called), "Robbers'," "River" (this because there +is a stream in it which can be crossed only in a boat), "Bridal," etc. +Others are named for the owners of the land, or from some peculiarity, +as "Dry," "Bunch," "Morgan," "Arnholdt." Many are not deemed of +sufficient importance to have specific titles. + +All those named were visited, as well as a number of the others. + +A detailed description is not necessary. Not one of these caverns has +ever been occupied unless as a temporary shelter. Some are flooded at +intervals, either from the outside or by interior drainage; some have +very restricted entrances and are dark at the front; some have rock +floors or muddy bottoms; some can be entered only by clambering over +talus to an opening at the bottom, or near the bottom, of a sink hole. +Some shallow cavities, which under different conditions would be +available as rock shelters, are in places difficult of access, remote +from water, or otherwise unsuitable. + +Some of these caverns have wonderful deposits on ceilings, walls, and +floors, rivaling in beauty and ornate patterns those of the most +famous caves of the country; and if they were easily accessible or +could be conveniently explored, would attract hosts of visitors. One +in particular, the "Bridal Cave," so called from a mass of stalactite +material fully 10 feet from side to side at the top, which hangs in +delicate translucent loops and folds and convolutions, equals Luray or +Wyandotte for beauty, though not for extent. + + * * * * * + +It was reported that two walled graves stand on a "bald" on the farm +of Will Robert Eidson, on the divide between the Niangua and the +Little Niangua Rivers, about 4 miles north of Roach post office. They +were described as "rocks laid up in a regular wall about 4 feet high, +and about 30 steps square, and filled up inside with rocks." A visit +to the site disclosed two ordinary cairns, made by throwing weathered +limestone boulders into a rounded heap. Both piles have been +scattered, and as they now exist one is about 25 feet, the other about +30 feet across. Such exaggerated, misleading descriptions are common, +and result in much fruitless investigation. + +Several caves are reported in the vicinity of Toronto, in Camden and +Miller Counties; especially the Cokely Cave, 4 miles from Brumley on +the Linn Creek road. From the descriptions given by informants, none +of them appear to be suitable for habitation. + +Many cairns exist on the ridges in this region, especially on high +points overlooking valleys. All of them were built up with chert or +limestone blocks, and all are more or less torn up. So far as could be +learned there is no sign of a wall in any of them. + +In the present state of knowledge, Camden County offers no inducement +for archeological research. + + +A FOSSIL CAVE (29) + +The geological deposits in this region comprise three principal +formations which are named in the State report as the Jefferson City +limestone, the Roubidoux sandstone, and the Gasconade limestone. It is +in the last (which is the lowest) that caverns are found. + +In various places erosion, either internal or superficial, or both, +has formed crevices or sink holes through which the disintegrated +sandstone finds its way into caverns below, where it accumulates and +hardens until more resistant than when in its original condition. + +Further erosion has in several places carried away the limestone from +around these intrusive masses, allowing them to project above the +present surface. Sometimes, where the sand piled up, they resemble +haystacks; but usually they are of indefinite form, having spread out +on the floor of the cavern, as such material will do in a shallow +stream. + +An interesting example of this action is the "Standing Rock," 4 miles +west of Linn Creek, the county seat. Here was formerly a large cave +with an eastward trend until near the mouth, when it turned sharply +southward, the opening being in the direction of a little stream. The +lower end of this cave became solidly filled with sand, and the water +found an outlet farther back. All the limestone which formed the roof +and walls of the middle portion of the cave is gone, a narrow ravine +marking its course. The sandstone obstruction held its place, and now +extends directly across the ridge between the two ravines. Its surface +is an exact cast of the interior of the cave which it filled, and +nodules of chert, remaining when the limestone dissolved, are still +imbedded in its surface. The line of demarkation between the limestone +matrix, where this still exists in part, and the siliceous filling is +as distinct as that between the stone and brick in a building. The +loose cave earth shows plainly under the sandstone near the former +mouth of the cavern. Plan and section are shown in figures 20 and 21. + + * * * + + +MILLER COUNTY + +WRIGHT CAVE (30) + +A mile and a half west of Brumley, near Glaize Creek, is Wright, or +Brumley, Cave. The entrance is 15 feet high and 40 feet wide. At 20 +feet from the mouth the width contracts to 20 feet. The depth is 120 +feet in daylight to a stalagmite floor. Dry cave earth extends for 35 +feet from the entrance, at which distance it reaches tough, sticky +clay; this continues to the stalagmite. Above the clay are growing +stalactites. + + [Illustration: FIG. 20.--Plan of Fossil Cave.] + +In front of the entrance were a few flint chips, but no indications of +pottery or shell. A small implement, shown in figure 22, was found +which is of interest because it was worked to a sharp point at one end +of a narrow drill, while the other end widened into a squared form +with a straight base which was dulled and polished from use as a +cutting tool; the entire surface was polished from long service. An +object of this kind would be highly suitable for mending moccasins and +leggins. Finding this and nothing else strengthens the probability +that this cave was used as a temporary camping place, but was never +permanently occupied. + + [Illustration: FIG. 21.--Section of Fossil Cave.] + + +WILSON CAVE (31) + +Facing Barren Fork of Tavern Creek, on the farm of John R. Bond, 8 +miles northwest of Iberia and 12 miles southeast of Tuscumbia, is a +cave celebrated by reason of a provision in the will of a former +eccentric owner. + +There is a small cave which has an opening in the bluff, a few feet to +one side of the larger cave. This can be reached only by means of +ladders 60 feet long. + +Jack Wilson came from Ireland and settled on Tavern (or Cavern) Creek +in 1822. For a number of years he lived in this cave, with his +family. He died in 1855, leaving instructions that his body was to be +packed in salt and placed in the small cave, "with a ten-gallon cask +of good whisky," the entrance then to be sealed up. In order to carry +out his last wishes, and at the same time to give him a "Christian +burial," his wife had all his internal organs removed and interred in +a cemetery; his body was filled with salt, and placed in a coffin, +which, according to his wishes, was deposited in the cave, with the +whisky. On the seventh anniversary of his death the whole community +was to assemble to "eat, drink, and be merry." For many years +residents in the vicinity had used the cave as a place for festive +gatherings; but this occasion was to be on a scale beyond anything +previously attempted. If necessary, Scriptural methods were to be +employed; that is, messengers were to be sent out in all directions, +urging every one to come. The floor was to be enlarged, and a platform +erected on it. When all were assembled, the whisky and the coffin were +to be brought from their resting place and set on the platform. Then +certain famous fiddlers were to ascend the platform and play, while +the guests danced. When the whisky was exhausted, and the fiddlers in +the same condition, the picnic was over and the assembly would +disperse. The coffin was then to be replaced in the little cave, which +was to be again sealed up, not to be reopened until the Day of +Judgment. + + [Illustration: FIG. 22.--Perforator and knife from Wright Cave.] + +The preliminaries were carried out according to program, but when the +time for the celebration came round the people were more concerned +with the Civil War, and especially in the activities of the +bushwhackers who infested that part of the country, than they were in +picnics; and Wilson's resurrection was brought about by persons whose +identity was never discovered. They got into his tomb in some manner, +drank all the whisky, broke open the coffin, and threw Wilson's bones +to the outside, where they were scattered down the slope. Horrified +relatives gathered them up, replaced them in the cave, sealed it +again, and Wilson is still there awaiting his final summons. + +The entrance is 20 feet high and 45 feet wide. Dry cave earth extends +for 135 feet; from this point it continues, partially filled with +fallen rock and stalagmite, 40 feet farther, or 175 feet in all, in +plain daylight, at which distance the cave makes a turn; and the cave +earth was followed in this to complete darkness without coming to its +termination. + +Beginning 100 feet from the entrance and extending for 35 feet, a +narrow row of loose rocks fallen from the outcrop of stratum along the +center of the roof lies on the surface. The cavern here measures 35 +feet in width. + +There is a wet weather stream along one wall, but the amount of water +passing out is never large. + +Solid bedrock, with patches of cave earth on it, is exposed, in +slightly rising strata, for 10 feet from the little bluff at the +mouth; within this it is hidden by the earth which gradually rises to +a height of 6 feet; but some of this rise may be due to increased +elevation of the rock floor. The entire cave can be easily cleared out +to the stalagmite; and it would be advisable to remove at least +portions of this in order to ascertain what may lie beneath it. + +Refuse appears in considerable quantity in the bottom of the little +stream bed and under the receding walls; and likewise a small amount +outside the entrance. But the bedrock crops out frequently in narrow +ledges between the mouth of the cavern and the foot of the hill, so +very little debris of any kind lies on the slope outside. + +Some alteration of the surface of the earth floor has taken place in +consequence of the construction of platforms; but aside from this it +has remained practically undisturbed. + + +BAGNELL CAVE (32) + +A large cavern is near the top of the "Bagnell Hill" on the Bagnell +and Linn Creek road, on the right (south) side of the Osage River, and +about 3 miles from the town of Bagnell. On account of the "millions" +of bats which shelter in it, the name of Bat Cave is applied to this +as it is to many other caves in the region. + +The entrance is so small that the cavern can be entered only by +crawling in; and as no traces of Indian remains have ever been +observed in it, or around the front, no examination was deemed +necessary. + + +BODE CAVE (33) + +Half a mile south of St. Elizabeth is the Ben Bode Cave. The roof has +fallen in near the front, leaving the original exterior standing as a +natural bridge a few feet wide. The present entrance to the cavern is +40 feet behind the bridge. It has a wet, rocky floor, and much water +flows through it after a rain. + + +LUCKENHOFF CAVE + +On John Luckenhoff's farm, three-fourths of a mile south of St. +Elizabeth, facing Tavern Creek, is a small cave with a rocky floor. +The entrance is nearly blocked with a mass of stalagmite, behind which +the cave is dark. + + +JURGGENMEYER CAVE + +It was reported that in a "cave" on the farm of Conrad Jurggenmeyer, +21/2 miles east of St. Elizabeth, a human skull was discovered. The +statement may be true; but instead of a cave there is only a tunnel a +few rods in length. Beyond the upper arch is an open ravine. + + +DAERHOFF CAVE + +On Ben Daerhoff's farm, 4 miles north of St. Elizabeth, is a cavern +facing a narrow valley through which a small stream flows to Tavern +Creek a mile and a half away. The entrance is 8 feet high and 55 feet +wide. It is well lighted to a depth of 120 feet, where it makes a +turn. Dry earth extends back for 55 feet; from there on it is muddy. A +small stream flows along one wall, from the wet portion of the floor +to the entrance; with a little ditching this could be made to drain +off all the water, forming a dry bottom to the rear wall. No refuse of +any kind could be found, and the owner says he has never observed any +either in the cave or in front of it. + + +CAVE NEAR MOUTH OF TAVERN CREEK + +In the bluff facing Tavern Creek, half a mile above its junction with +the Osage, is a cave with an entrance 10 feet high and the same in +width. It has a depth of 45 feet in daylight. The floor is of clay and +angular gravel, and so wet that puddles are found near the entrance. + + +BAT CAVE (34) + +This is in a bluff facing the Osage, a mile south of the Rock Island +Railway bridge. It is not accessible except by means of a ladder or +stairway fully 60 feet long. The roof overhangs the entrance, and the +floor projects over a shallow rock shelter which reaches for a few +rods along the foot of the bluff. A small amount of water seeps from +the entrance. Persons who explored the cavern years ago--there is no +way to reach it at present--say it divides into three large chambers, +mostly dry, and with floors of solid rock or of earth containing much +rock. + + +GRAVE AT MOUTH OF SALINE CREEK (35) + +Four miles below Tuscumbia, on the left bank of the Osage, is the +mouth of Saline Creek which comes in from the north. On the lower +(east) side of their junction, on the farm of Charles Tillman, is a +low spur projecting toward the creek. On this is a pile of stones, all +that remains of a vault or box grave which formerly existed there. Mr. +Tillman says it was originally 35 or 40 feet across, a mound or +rounded heap of stones, those about the top being larger than those +nearer the base. Needing rock for various purposes, he procured them +from this pile, beginning at the top to remove them and proceeding +outward. In the course of this work he found that a wall had been +built up to a height of about 4 feet, forming a practically square +inclosure. The space within was filled and the structure entirely +covered with rocks of various sizes. He removed the stones as he +reached them, and consequently did not notice whether the outer face +of the wall was straighter or smoother than the inner face, or whether +there was any particular difference. In all, he took away not less +than 40 wagon loads of stones. + +On the level top of the hill from which the spur extends is a village +site, where mortars, pestles, quantities of flints, and much broken +pottery have been found; but no shell. + + +STARK'S CAVE (36) + +Six miles south of Eldon, on a farm now owned by George Irvin, is a +cave which is continuous with a small ravine leading up to it. The +entrance is 45 feet wide and 16 feet high; a small stream flows from +it, along the foot of the left (northern) wall. This skirts a thin +deposit of damp earth, which lies along the southern wall, gradually +narrowing as it extends inward, until at 50 feet it runs out at the +edge of a shallow pool reaching nearly across the cave. The bottom, +except for the earth mentioned, is rocky. + +The cave was never fit for occupancy. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS + +In an old "History of Miller County" mention is made of a large group +of small mounds on a certain man's farm, without giving the locality. +It is believed by old residents that this man "lived at one time 2 or +3 miles west of Ullman." If they existed, they were no doubt house +mounds. + + +CAIRNS + +Several graves, in a group, were formerly on John Tillman's land, 6 +miles south of Eugene. The stones have been entirely removed. When the +ground was plowed bullets were found under the sites of the cairns. + + * * * + + +MARIES COUNTY + +INDIAN FORD CAVE (37) + +This is a fourth of a mile up the river from the bridge crossing the +Gasconade, 21/2 miles east of Vienna. It is near the top of the hill at +the head of a shallow ravine. The entrance, 35 feet wide, can be +reached conveniently only near one wall, as a pile of talus +immediately in front completely closes the opening; behind it the roof +is 7 feet above the floor. If this accumulated material, which has +increased somewhat in height within the memory of men now living, were +removed to the level of the floor, the main chamber would be amply +lighted to its end, a distance of 150 feet. There is a gradual +downward incline from front to rear, the floor sloping more rapidly +than the roof. After hard rains some water runs into the cavern from +the inner slope of the talus; otherwise the floor is perfectly dry for +65 feet, then becomes wet, and near the rear wall there is standing +water. It is apparent that a former drainage outlet in this direction +is now choked with sediment, brought down perhaps through a branch +opening. At 25 feet within the entrance the cavern is 25 feet wide; at +65 feet the distance across is 35 feet, with both walls sloping away +like a low-pitched roof and loose earth filling the space under them. +At the rear wall the width between the two branches into which the +cave divides is 40 to 50 feet. The floor here is clay, with numerous +little puddles. + +Some pottery, bone, and much shell, but no flint chips, are scattered +on the floor and for 50 or 60 feet down the slope outside. + +The cavern would make an excellent habitation and is well worth +excavating. + + +LACKAYE'S BLUFF CAVE (38) + +This is on the farm of Harrison Hutchinson, who lives 10 miles +southeast of Freeburg, on the road to Paydown. It is near the top of a +bluff facing the Gasconade. Talus has accumulated in the front part of +the cavern until it rises within 2 feet of the roof; farther back the +cavity is of sufficient height for a man to stand erect, although +nowhere more than 10 feet wide. Owing to the talus the interior is in +almost total darkness. Were this accumulation removed the roof at the +entrance would be 8 or 9 feet above the floor. The cavern may have +been occupied, but there are no indications of such fact, although the +recent natural deposits may conceal some remains. + + +HURRICANE BLUFF CAVE + +Half a mile below Lackaye Bluff, opposite the lower end of an island +in the Gasconade, is a rock shelter 85 feet in length, 15 feet high in +front, 6 feet high at the rear, and 15 feet deep along the middle +portion, wedging out at either end. A large pile of talus in front +forms a natural windbreak, and the depression is a favorite camping +place with present-day hunters and fishermen. A small quantity of +flint chips and many shells can be seen around the wall and for some +distance down the slope in front. The site may repay investigation, +though there is no great depth of earth. + + * * * * * + +It is reported that paintings of a deer or elk and other objects are +to be seen on the face of a bluff near Paydown. + + +STRATMAN CAVE (39) + +On the farm of Henry L. Stratman, 21/2 miles above the Rock Island +Railway bridge across the Gasconade River, is a cave near the top of a +bluff facing the Gasconade. The entrance is 33 feet wide and 35 feet +high. Forty feet back the walls approach each other, forming a doorway +or short passage 5 feet wide. Beyond this is a room 18 feet deep and 9 +feet across, with a rock ledge or shelf on each side several feet wide +and elevated from a foot to 2 feet above the earth floor. This room is +well lighted. The earth at the rear is 10 feet higher than at the main +entrance. Behind this, in turn, nearly shut off by a large column of +stalagmite, is a third room, 8 feet wide, whose earth floor rises +rapidly. Were the stalagmite removed, there would be ample light for +20 or 30 feet farther, or about 90 feet in all. + +Refuse, mostly shell, shows for 100 feet down the hill. There is some +shell in the cave, along the walls; but most of the floor is a +comparatively recent accumulation of roof dust and small fragments of +rock, and is quite dry as far as light penetrates. + +The entrance is much more easily reached from the top of the hill than +from the foot of the bluff. + +The trend and appearance of the reentrant side walls connecting the +present entrance with the straight face of the cliff indicates that +the earth in the cavern has a depth of 30 feet or more. Should this +prove to be the case, here would be a most excellent place to search +for evidence of occupation which, whether continuous or not, might +bridge the time from the modern Indian to the earliest inhabitant. + +Certainly no other cave in Missouri offers such facilities or +inducements for careful and thorough investigation with a view to +determining the existence of an early "cave man" in this country. + + * * * + + +OSAGE COUNTY + +RIVER CAVE (40) + +This is at the foot of a bluff facing the Gasconade, 21/2 miles below +Gascondy. It has a solid rock bottom, rising steeply for a few feet +within the entrance, and a constantly flowing stream covers half the +space between the walls. + + +ROCK SHELTER + +There is an excellent rock shelter, 50 feet long, over which the cliff +projects for 15 feet, in front and to one side of the entrance of +River Cave. On this is a slight depth of earth in which were found +some broken bones and shells. The site is an excellent one for camping +parties, but has no evidence of other than temporary use. + + +STEUFFER CAVE + +Four miles east of Freeburg, in a ravine, is a cavern popularly known +as Beer Cave, being formerly used as a storage room for beer made in a +brewery built just in front of it. The entrance is 8 feet wide and 12 +feet high. The front chamber, having practically the same dimensions, +extends directly back for 50 feet, then makes a turn. The floor is a +mixture of clay and angular gravel, with a continuous downward slope +from front to rear. Water cracks show that it is sometimes flooded. + +The place was never fit for living in. + + +CAIRNS + +At the Gasconade River bridge, on the Rich Fountain road, two creeks +on the west side, Brush and Swan, separated only by a narrow ridge +which terminates abruptly at either end, come in a fourth of a mile +apart. Both rise in the same lake, 6 miles from the river, and flow +through parallel valleys, thus draining an abandoned ox-bow curve of +the stream. + +On the extreme eastern point of this ridge are two cairns. A fourth of +a mile from these are two others; and farther back still more of them. +All are now destroyed. They were the usual conical heaps of stone, 18 +to 20 feet across. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS (41) + +A group of house mounds extends for half a mile eastward from Rich +Fountain, along the valley of Brush Creek. They are fully 100 in +number, and it is said there were formerly many more which are now +leveled by cultivation. The ground is low, in some places swampy, so +that water or mud surrounds many of them after a heavy rain. + + +"INDIAN FORT" (42) + +This structure, also called the "Indian Lookout," is located on a +bluff facing the Osage, half a mile below the "Painted Rock," and near +the buildings of the Painted Rock Country Club, of Jefferson City. + +Except for a slight projection or offset at one side, which contains +an opening or doorway, it was practically identical in appearance with +the vault graves along the Missouri River bluffs, described in Bureau +of American Ethnology Bulletin 37; or else with those on Big Piney +River in Pulaski County. It is formed of sandstone slabs, once laid up +in a wall but now scattered in confusion as if fallen or thrown down. +Apparently it measured about 32 to 35 feet outside and 12 or 13 feet +inside. + + * * * + + +COLE COUNTY + +NATURAL BRIDGE CAVE + +This is at the top of a bluff facing the Osage, one-half mile below +the Rock Island bridge. It is only 10 feet wide and the same in +height, and extends back 20 feet to a narrow passage which is almost +closed by stalagmite. The site is difficult to reach, but disclosed a +few fragments of pottery and some shell. The earth of the floor +ascends rather steeply to the rear and contains many large rocks. It +was only a camping place. + + * * * + + +MORGAN COUNTY + +SPEERS CAVE + +On the Brown property, 7 miles southeast of Stover, is a reported +cave, which proved to be a natural tunnel 400 feet long. The drainage +from several farms passes through it from ravines above. The lower +entrance is 40 feet wide and 50 feet high, the upper entrance 20 feet +wide and 10 feet high. + +Natural bridges and tunnels of varying lengths and widths are rather +common in this part of the Osage Valley. + + +HOUSE MOUNDS (43) + +Southeast of Stover, beginning at the edge of the town, is a group of +house mounds extending over an area having a very irregular outline, +but fully half a mile across in any direction. They vary from 20 to 35 +feet in diameter and are scattered promiscuously at intervals of 25 to +150 feet. The surface on which they are built reaches over a +succession of small knolls and ridges with slopes of 4 or 5 degrees. +Most of them are along the sides of a wide, shallow valley draining +northward, and of two or three small tributary depressions coming into +it from either side, though a number are also to be found beyond the +slight watershed which separates this drainage area from that to the +southward. They exist in woods, meadows, and cultivated ground, so +that some of them retain their original form, others are flattened and +widened, while still others are barely traceable. Probably some have +been entirely effaced by plow and harrow. + + + + +II. CAVE EXPLORATIONS IN OTHER STATES + +INTRODUCTION + + +Certain conditions are to be taken into account in deciding whether a +cave afforded a desirable permanent shelter to primitive man. It +should be accessible; the floor should be dry, at least fairly level, +and sufficiently free from large rocks to allow the inmates to move +about freely; the entrance should be large enough to permit free +passage and to light the interior to a distance that would insure +protection from the elements. Temporary shelters or camping places +might be deficient in some of these particulars and still be resorted +to frequently; but if there were opportunity for choice, a man with +intelligence to select a cave in which to live continually would, it +is fair to assume, look for one possessing such features. + +If such conditions, once established, were free from the mutations of +time, the explorer would have but little difficulty in deciding upon a +suitable site for his labors. But limestone, more than any other solid +rock, is subject to constant erosion, crumbling, and falling; while +the soil and loose fragments resulting from such action move downward +year by year over the slopes and into any cavities where they can find +their way. In the course of centuries the entire aspect of a cave may +be so altered as to bear no resemblance whatever to its original +appearance. Consequently a careful study must be made of the immediate +surroundings, in order to determine what topographical changes may +have occurred since the earliest time within which it is probable that +man may have existed in that locality. Should the floor, at present, +be of solid rock; or covered with only a slight layer of earth; or +have a stream flowing over it; or show by marks upon the walls that it +is subject to inundation either from adjacent streams or by surface +water which finds its way in through sink holes; or be in such +situation as to make it apparent that the original bottom was thus +flooded in comparatively modern times, even though such may not now be +the case--in any such event excavation would be labor wasted. On the +other hand, all the necessary requirements for a convenient residence +may now be present, and yet result from causes which have begun to +operate within the historic period. In other words, there are very few +cases in which the present appearance of a cave is to be deemed a +certain or even an approximate indication of its actual state a few +thousand years ago. There is only one way to determine whether +extended excavations may possibly result in satisfactory returns, and +that is to sink shafts or run trenches in the superficial deposits. + + * * * + + +INDIANA + +The cave region of this State extends from Owen and Morgan Counties to +the Ohio River. The caverns and sink holes gradually increase in +number and size toward the south, until they culminate in Wyandotte +Cave, second only to Mammoth Cave of Kentucky in extent, and in the +so-called "valleys" of Harrison County which are in reality nothing +but sink holes several square miles in extent. Some of the caverns are +described in detail by W.S. Blatchley, the State geologist, in the +Twenty-first Annual Report of the Survey (1896). Very few of those +mentioned by him are at all suitable for permanent occupancy, though +several would afford excellent shelter except in the rainy season, at +which time most of them have the floors muddy or perhaps covered with +water for weeks in succession. Such as were visited in these +explorations will now be taken up in their order. + + +LAWRENCE COUNTY + +ROCK LEDGE QUARRY.--Early in 1903 periodicals mentioned an interesting +discovery made at this place. According to the report, workmen in +excavating a cut for a railway found an old cave entirely filled with +stalagmite matter. In this, 10 feet below the former top of the +cave--the cut did not extend to the bottom of the stalagmite--were +discovered some bones which were pronounced by "several physicians" to +be those of a human being. Among them was a "jaw tooth" (molar) and +part of a skull. Correspondence failing to elicit any satisfactory +information, a visit was made to the site. The cave could not be +traced in either direction from the railway cut; but it had plainly +served as an outlet for several large sink holes on the hill above it. +Nothing could be learned here regarding the matter except that the +objects had been found and were then in the museum of the State +University at Bloomington. This place was next visited and the +specimens inspected. There were many fragments still imbedded in the +matrix, which was travertine rather than stalagmite. No exact +determination of them had been made, but only casual inspection was +needed to see that none of them could be human. The "jaw tooth" was +from a peccary, the "human skull" was the carapace of a tortoise. + +SHILOAH CAVE.--It was reported that, although the entrance to this +cavern, 7 miles northwest of Bedford, was in a sink hole, the floor +was level and accessible. The opening is almost at the bottom of the +sink, whose slope is quite steep. After every rain the water runs in; +and while the floor is level, as stated, it has a constant stream of +water flowing over it and is in absolute darkness. + +DONNEHUE'S CAVE.--Although water flows continuously from the entrance, +the amount of discharge was said to be small and the cave floor level +and covered with earth, while the cave itself was large and well +lighted. The approach, however, is quite difficult; the earth is +nowhere more than 2 or 3 feet thick, and after a heavy rain the stream +extends from wall to wall. + +Between Bedford and Donnehue's cave is one, unnamed, at the head of a +ravine which was once an extension of the cavern. The opening is of +fair size but the floor is of rock and the outflow of water is steady. + +Just outside the corporate limits of Bedford, to the south, is an +opening in the cliff at the head of a deep ravine, more in the nature +of a rock house than of a cave. It would make an excellent shelter for +a few persons, being accessible, protected from winds, and close to +water. While it may have been so used formerly, the deposit of earth +and stone on the floor is very scanty and anything beneath could well +be quite modern. + +Two caves were reported 2 miles south of Bedford. One is a small +opening from which a stream issues, flows across a meadow, and enters +the other cave, which is much larger. They are parts of one passage, +the roof between these openings having broken down, and the stream is +the same which finds its outlet at Donnehue's cave. + +Several other caves in the vicinity of Bedford were visited. They are +all small and of no importance from an archeological standpoint. + +DONNELSON'S CAVE.--"The mouth of the cave is found at the head of a +deep gorge worn through the limestone by a good-sized stream which +flows from the cave and down the gorge to the broader valley beyond. +Many centuries ago the cave extended the full length of the gorge, and +the waters of the stream flowed directly from its mouth into the +valley. The roof of the underground channel finally became so thin +that it collapsed, the gorge was then started, and as the centuries +went by grew in length, the cave becoming ever shorter by the +continued falling of the roof. + +"Three passages open directly into the mouth of the cave. The right +hand passage has the level of its floor about 5 feet above that of the +entrance, while the opening on the left is 12 feet above the level of +the stream and very difficult to enter without a ladder. The middle +passage extends straight back from the common vestibule or main entry. +The latter is 25 feet long, 21 feet high, and 18 feet wide, but at its +farther end is reduced to the narrow middle passage between great +masses of limestone. The water in this passage is waist deep and +explorations must be made by wading or in a light canoe. One hundred +feet within is a magnificent cascade, where the stream rushes and +leaps down a narrow passage with such violence that the noise is +plainly heard at the entrance. + +"The right-hand passage for the first 100 feet is about 10 feet high +by 15 wide, with a clay bottom and a roof on a level with that of the +vestibule. It then expands into a large room, 230 feet long and 40 +feet wide, which lies east and west at right angles to the entering +passage. This narrows at the west end to 20 feet, and at one point the +outer air flows in through a small opening in the roof. From near the +small end of the room a narrow passage starts off to the southward and +can be traveled for 200 feet, when it becomes too small for further +advance. Along this passage a small stream flows, disappearing through +a hole in the floor near the entrance to the larger room. Other than +this, both right and left passages leaving the main entry are dry. + +"The passage at the left of the main entrance to the cave is about 150 +feet long by 20 broad, and contains no points of especial interest." +[W.S. Blatchley.] + +It may be added to the above description that a heavy rain causes a +rapid rise of several feet in the stream through the middle passage. + +The cavern is situated 31/2 miles east of Mitchell. It has been fitted +up by the State University as an experiment station for the study of +underground fauna and flora. + +The branch to the right is never entirely dry. Throughout the year +water trickles or seeps over the stones and keeps the mud soft and +sloppy, while after extremely heavy rains the water may be 2 or 3 +inches deep for a short time--enough to keep all the earth washed from +the floor for 50 or 60 feet from the entrance. + +The northern or left branch presented a smooth, solid floor of rock at +the beginning. The roof is about 13 feet above the floor, being a flat +stratum broken by a joint-seam along which there is a slight fault. A +ledge of friable sandstone 31/2 feet thick lies next below the roof. The +disintegration of this gave a dry covering to the clayey earth which +covered the floor almost to the extreme edge of the rock overhanging +the stream and gradually rose toward the rear, where it entirely +filled the space from floor to roof. The distance between the side +walls is 8 feet at the mouth. They diverge slightly, and at 65 feet +are about 12 feet apart. Here they separate more sharply, forming a +chamber 30 feet in diameter, measuring on every side to the contact of +the earth and the roof. At the extreme rear a slight wash or +depression in the earth revealed the top of a vertical solid wall, +thus marking the limit of the cave in that direction. It seems, +however, to extend farther to the east and the west than it can now be +followed; in fact, the indications are that at one time a considerable +cross-cavern extended along this line. + +The work of clearing out this branch began at the entrance. The +superincumbent earth was removed by a trench whose boundary was the +solid rock on each side until the cave widened to more than 8 feet +between the walls; then a width of 7 to 9 feet was excavated midway +between the sides, the entire trench having a length of 92 feet, or +reaching nearly to the vertical wall at the rear. For about 60 feet +the earth was removed to the rock floor. At this distance the floor +dipped. The bottom of the trench continued to follow the same level it +had held to this point, in the belief that the dip in the floor was +due to a crevice or slight erosion channel and would soon disappear, +bringing the rock to its normal position. This was not the case; +several holes were dug, the deepest one 3 feet, into the mingled clay +and rock, without finding any evidence of a solid bottom. The +conclusion seemed certain that the passage leading from the entrance +of the cave to the large room at its farther end was only a tributary +or branch of a cross-cave extending in an east and west direction, as +intimated above. Prof. Eigenmann, of the State university, reached the +same conclusion through surveys not connected with this work. Under +the circumstances further digging seemed useless; for if this should +be a cross-cave the bottom would probably, almost certainly, be on a +level with the stream now flowing through the central passage, while +if it should prove to be only a cellar-like deepening, it would not be +utilized for a habitation. + +At 30 feet from the entrance the accumulated earth had a thickness of +6 feet; from there it rose gradually to the roof at the end. + +At 37 feet, in a pocket of coarse sand on the rock floor, such as +settles in a gentle current, were four fragments of bone. There is not +enough of them to identify with certainty, but they seem to belong to +a deer, a turkey, and some bird about the size of a quail. + +At 66 feet in, a foot lower than the surface of the bedrock (being 5 +or 6 feet beyond the above-mentioned dip), were small fragments or +particles of charcoal, or what had every appearance of such. They were +in earth that showed the lamination or stratification due to +successive water deposits, and had been introduced in the same manner. +The entire earth deposit below the sand capping showed this +lamination, sometimes horizontal, sometimes curved, proving a long +period of deposition. Further evidence of age is found in the +travertine, 7 inches thick, that occurs on top of the earth at the +back of the cave. + +In the absence of all other evidence the specks of charcoal can not be +accepted as proof of human life in the vicinity at the time these +deposits were forming. + +While the work was in progress three students from the university came +through the central cave in a small boat, having entered through a +sink hole 3 miles away in an air line. At some point of their course +they lost their lanterns and made the remainder of the journey in +absolute darkness, feeling their way along the walls, dragging or +carrying the craft over shallows, and at one place lying flat in the +bottom and propelling the boat by applying hands and feet to the roof, +which was less than a foot above the water. + + +MARTIN COUNTY + +Various caves are reported in the vicinity of Shoals. Those whose +location was clearly given are merely "rock houses" or recesses in the +Carboniferous conglomerate bluffs bordering the east fork of White +River. Some of them would make fairly good shelters, but all which can +now be examined are at so low a level that the river gets into them or +very close to them in flood periods. Consequently there is no +probability that ancient remains are to be found in them. Some of the +shelters higher up on the cliffs may have been utilized, but the +bottom of these is now covered with huge blocks, some weighing a +hundred tons. It is true that such rock houses, in all parts of the +country, were regular resorts for modern Indians, and they probably +furnished shelter to the earliest inhabitants of this region, no +matter how remote the period of occupation. But owing to their open +front and the exposed situation of most of them, it is quite possible +that the wind may remove the fine material falling from roof and sides +almost as fast as it is deposited. At any rate the debris on the +floors is seldom more than 3 or 4 feet deep, and articles very plainly +of no great age are frequently found at all levels in it. + +In a few places along the river bluffs limestone crops out beneath the +sandstone, and springs occasionally appear along the line of junction, +eroding small cavities, but these are subject to overflow, and none of +them has an opening large enough to enter without crawling. + + +ORANGE COUNTY + +VICINITY OF PAOLI.--From this town six caves were visited, all that +could be located by diligent inquiry. None of them has any particular +designation except "Mill Cave," which is so named because the stream +issuing from it furnishes power for a flour mill. The water covers the +floor at all seasons. + +One, though quite small, could have been occupied at a former period, +but the roof and front fell in some years ago, entirely closing it. + +A third has a small entrance on a hillside. A steep and rough descent +was followed beyond reach of daylight without coming to a level +bottom. + +The other three are very small with rock bottoms. + +FRENCH LICK SPRINGS.--Two or three miles from this place is "Star +Cavern," which is advertised as being of great size and beauty. The +immediate surroundings are quite romantic and deserve the praise +accorded the spot by visitors. The cave itself, however, more +resembles an artificial tunnel than a natural result of erosion. The +floor is clean rock with a little brook flowing over it. + +Two other caves not far from Star Cave are dry, but with solid rock +floors, so they were not visited. + +ORANGEVILLE.--Near this place are the so-called Gulfs of Lost River. +The stream sinks a few miles east of Orleans, emerges at the "Gulfs" +from one side of a very large sink hole with precipitous margin, and +immediately goes out of sight again in a deep pool or chasm. It +reappears a mile or so away at the foot of a cliff where, after heavy +rains, it boils up like a gigantic fountain. Numerous small caves or +sink holes exist in the neighborhood, three of which were reported as +being dry, lighted, having good entrances, and well suited for +habitancy. One of them is at the bottom of a sink hole on a hill. The +descent is steep and rocky for 20 feet (it was not followed farther) +and no doubt so continues to the level of the river which flows almost +directly under it. + +The two others are in the principal "Gulf." They are open and of good +size, but mud high on the walls shows they are filled with water in +wet seasons. + + +CRAWFORD COUNTY + +MARENGO CAVE.--This is growing famous as it becomes better known. +Blatchley says that in it "are probably crowded more beautiful +formations of crystalline limestone than in any other known cave of +similar size in the United States." Visitors who have been in both say +it surpasses Luray Cavern in the magnificence of its sheets and +columns of deposited material. + +As it was not opened until 1883, and the bottom can be reached only by +a stairway 60 feet high, it was of course unknown to the aborigines. + +A small cave near Marengo has an opening on a hillside, and can be +directly entered from the outside; but it is at times a passageway for +a strong current of water 3 feet deep and extending the full width of +the cavity. + +MILLTOWN.--A mile north of the town is a large cave which would +furnish an abode for scores of people. The entrance is in a slight +depression on the level upland west of Blue River. The descent is down +an easy slope of fallen rock and earth about 30 feet deep to a rock +floor. Beyond the foot of the slope there is a slight thickness of +earth, so that explorations could reveal nothing that had a certainty +of antiquity. + +There is presented here a fine example of the manner in which caves of +this character become exposed to the upper world. At first, there was +an underground channel draining the adjacent country over a territory +of varying extent, sometimes many square miles. At some point the roof +fell in more rapidly than in other parts, until at last it became so +thin as to give way entirely. If the debris was not sufficient in +amount to extend above that part of the roof which remained intact on +either side, so that it would be gradually carried away, the cave +would remain open in both directions, as is the case at the "Gulfs" +just described and at other caves statements of which appear in +subsequent pages. Usually the debris quite chokes up one side and all +the superficial drainage is turned into the other, which is thus kept +open. In time, the slope around the depression becomes tolerably +uniform except close to the entrance, and there is no outward +indication that the cave ever extended farther than the spot where the +new entrance is located. So the cave, as it is now open to +examination, is only a portion of the original passage, and as the +explorer pursues his way, he may be going toward either the former +mouth or the source. In the former case, he comes out of a large +opening, or what was formerly such, on some slope in the neighborhood, +or descends until his way is obstructed by water. In the latter, he +may find his way shut off by diminishing passages, or he may descend +to lower levels through newer drainage channels cut by the streams +which have been reversed and forced to carve other outlets for +themselves. + +This change occurred in the Milltown Cave a very long time ago. +Standing on the debris, several feet within the entrance and beneath a +part of the roof now perfectly dry and showing no marks of percolating +water, is a stalagmite 31 inches in diameter, which has weathered to a +depth of 3 to 4 inches from atmospheric influences alone. + +WYANDOTTE CAVE.--So much has been printed concerning this celebrated +cavern that no mention need be made of its interior features. The +place seems excellently adapted as a habitation for primitive people. +It is situated on a hill at whose foot is the bank of Blue River. Five +miles away, as the road runs, is the Ohio. The backwater sometimes +reaches up the tributary for more than 10 miles. The flint-bearing +stratum of the Harrison County aboriginal quarries outcrops a short +distance away and appears at several points within the cave. The +country is extremely rugged, and good springs occur frequently. Game +was formerly abundant in the hills, and Blue River still rewards the +angler with various species of fish, many of them of large size. + +A former race, presumably the modern Indian, did much work within the +cave. Tons of travertine or stalagmite, the so-called alabaster, have +been quarried from some of the deposits, while a large number of flint +nodules has been dug out of the cave-earth where they fell from the +disintegrating limestone. Some of this labor was carried on more than +a mile from daylight. + +The mouth of the cave was formerly almost closed by a mass of talus. +About 10 feet has been removed from the top of this, so that one may +now walk in without difficulty. On the inner side of the portion +remaining there is a slope for 96 feet, to a vertical depth of a +little more than 27 feet. The next 100 feet gives a descent of about 3 +feet; then another steep slope begins. The first point at which +bedrock floor is found within the cave is 120 feet lower than the +point of entry. It is supposed that the drainage to which the cave +owes its origin was outward; if this was the case the floor must be +more than 120 feet below the roof at the doorway. While this may be +true, it is not indicated by the condition of the visible strata. For +about 50 feet outward the side walls are nearly parallel and nowhere +more than 30 feet apart. Then they terminate at an angle in the +outcrop of the ledge along the hillside. The appearance and condition +of the upper strata, together with this narrow separation of the side +walls outside the cave, produce the impression that at a period not +very remote the roof of the cavern reached to the outcropping ledge in +which the walls end. Even though the rock floor should be at the great +depth supposed there is a possibility that an earth floor could be +found below the detritus which has accumulated since the roof fell in +or has worn away. + +To test the matter a shaft was begun at a point 16 feet in front of +the doorway. This was as near as such work could be done without +interfering with the advent of visitors, and allowed a margin of 30 +feet toward the outer slope. The shaft, 6 feet in diameter, soon +passed into a compact mass of red clay filled with rocks of various +sizes. At 14 feet down this was broken by an irregular stratum +averaging a foot in thickness, of coarse sand or fine gravel with a +slight admixture of clay, such as would form in a running stream. Its +slope was inward or toward the cave. As there are sandstone ledges on +the hillside above, this sand may have come from them, but, if so, it +is singular that none appeared elsewhere. At 18 feet down was a mass +of travertine measuring nearly 3 feet across and from 6 to 12 inches +thick. It had formed around the lower part of a stalagmite 18 inches +long, and the bottom of the whole formation rested horizontally on +clay. This gave the excavators hope that an earth floor had been +reached, as the stalagmite was vertical and resembled in all respects +stalagmites in the cave. But it was soon found to be a foreign +inclusion, and the same confused mixture of clay and stone continued +below as above. Various fragments of stalactites and stalagmites were +found as part of the detritus. These, especially the vertical one, +seem to confirm the supposition that the roof reached out this far at +a period which is quite recent as compared with the age of the cave. + +To a depth of 25 or 26 feet the task of excavating was as tedious and +difficult as digging up a much-traveled, rocky road, the earth being +dry enough to scour the shovels. Then the earth grew moist and within +2 feet was muddy. Cavities appeared, into some of which a switch could +be thrust 3 or 4 feet. Where such a cavity extended under a large +stone, stalactites were in process of formation. Soon the earth began +to work into a soft mud under the feet of the workmen, and at 32 feet +particles and small clods were noticed falling from the sides of the +shaft. A foot lower this breaking away became more decided. It may +have been due merely to the loose condition of the wet earth allowing +unsupported portions to fall from the freshly exposed surface, but +there was also the risk that the softer earth was sliding under the +weight of that above. The workmen, two of whom were experienced well +and cistern diggers, declared the risk too great and demanded to be +brought to the surface. + +The depth reached by this shaft was at least 5 feet lower than at any +point inside, within 200 feet of the mouth of the cave. The material, +with the exception of the sand layer, was almost identical from top to +bottom, there being no apparent difference other than increase of +moisture in the lower part. The only explanation suggesting itself at +present is that the chasm is filled with large loose rocks up to a +point near the bottom of the shaft; that debris from the hillside +above has covered these more rapidly than it could settle in the +crevices and cavities among them; and that water which makes its way +downward finds some obstruction to its free passage out at the bottom +of the chasm. + +The only safe plan of excavation seems to require the removal of all +the earth between the side walls to a depth below the mud. If the rock +bottom, or any solid bottom, is at a depth of 120 feet, there is small +chance that man lived in this region at a time when it was easily +accessible. + +SALTPETER CAVE.--This is about 600 yards northwest of Wyandotte Cave. +"The entrance, in a side of a ravine, is 5 feet high and 19 feet wide. +Once within, a gigantic room expands, 220 feet long, 75 feet wide, and +10 to 30 feet in height, with smooth flat ceiling and earthen floor, +the latter descending and with its edges much encumbered with fallen +rock." [W.S. Blatchley.] + +From the description given, this would seem an ideal site for +research. Unfortunately, the bottom of the ravine is not more than 5 +feet lower than the top of the talus at the entrance. This slight +elevation is the only barrier which keeps the surface water from +flowing in, and while the ravine seldom has any water in it, there +would be enough after a moderate rain to drown out the diggers who +were working below its level if the bank were removed. + +LITTLE WYANDOTTE.--This, like three caves on Blue River above +Wyandotte, four in the vicinity of Leavenworth, and one on the +opposite side of the river in Meade County, Ky., has a small entrance +in solid rock, with a steep and narrow passage to the foot of a slope +which does not expand into a room of any size until at some distance +beyond daylight. + + +HARRISON COUNTY + +The only cave of any note in Harrison County is at the King quarries, +5 miles east of Corydon. It has two outlets, one at the foot of a +little cliff, through which a fine spring has an exit; the other in +the face of the cliff, about 10 feet higher and a little to one side. +The latter discharges more or less water after every rain. The +drainage of several large sink holes is through the two openings. The +owner says mud has accumulated to a depth of 3 feet on the floor +within his remembrance, due to cultivation around the sink holes, +which causes the soil to waste. + + * * * + + +ILLINOIS + +MONROE COUNTY + +MAMMOTH CAVE.--The so-called "Mammoth Cave of Illinois" is near +Burksville, in Monroe County. An opportunity was afforded to visit it +while engaged in the cave work. It is very extensive, according to the +owner's description, being "7 or 8 miles long." The mouth is at the +bottom of a sink hole, and the cave is now reached by a narrow +stairway 40 feet high. Formerly it was necessary to clamber down the +walls, stepping from ledge to ledge with a foot and a hand on either +side. Then a ladder was made, said to have been 50 feet long; and, +with more frequent visitors, the stairway followed. The crevice is +very short, a mere crack, apparently made by water working its way +down from the bottom of the sink. All the drainage within the rim goes +into the cave, and it accumulates in the rainy season until the floor +is covered. A farmer living near says he has seen the water from the +cave rise until it covered the bottom of the sink hole. As similar +depressions are numerous in the vicinity, probably the combined inflow +is greater than the cave can carry away. The floor has been leveled +and a close pavement of large slabs laid over the muddy portions. No +one has ever heard of human remains being found anywhere in the cave. + + * * * + + +KENTUCKY + +Crossing the Ohio River from the southern Indiana cave region, the +counties of Kentucky lying in the belt of lower Carboniferous +limestone were next visited. No cave that seemed worth examining could +be heard of above the extreme southern portion of Hardin County. The +sections examined will be taken in their geographical order from north +to south. + + +HARDIN COUNTY + +HUTCHINS OR BRADLEY CAVE.--This is in the bluff bordering on the left +bank of Nolin River, 2 miles west of Upton. It was reported that human +remains had been found in it. The present owners, who have known the +cave for a long time, never heard of any such finds. The entrance is +low and narrow, so that access to the cave is to be had only by +creeping several yards. The cavern then expands into a very large +chamber, separated into three by curtains or partitions of stalactites +and stalagmites. Very little of floor, roof, or walls is to be seen, +being almost entirely covered by secondary deposits. Some of these are +remarkable for size and beauty. There is no probability that the cave +was ever inhabited. + +SALTPETER CAVE.--This is 3 miles southwest of Upton. It has a large +entrance and an earth floor, but the dirt has all been worked over for +making saltpeter, so there is nothing to search for. + + +HART COUNTY + +LAIRD'S CAVE.--About 2 miles north of Northtown is a large, roomy +cave, with a good entrance, but water drips from all parts of the +ceiling, and the floor is muddy and rocky. The drainage from 3 or 4 +acres of hillside flows over the arch of the entrance and logs 6 +inches in diameter are carried into it by the surface floods. + +LOCK'S CAVE.--This is a mile east of Rowlett's Station, near the top +of a ridge, and lying nearly parallel with its crest. It affords +another instance of a cave which has come to light only after a +portion of its roof has fallen in. The detritus entirely conceals the +opening at one end. The other end is entered by going down the fallen +rocks over a slope of 15 or 20 feet, which leads to a bottom strewn +with rocks. In such cases there can be nothing under the loose +material, because the cave had no entrance until this had fallen in. + +GARVIN CAVE.--This cavern, which is 3 miles southeast of Munfordville, +has an opening at the bottom of a sink hole, requiring a rope or +ladder for descent. + +HARLOW CAVE.--This is 31/2 miles southeast of Munfordville. It is a very +large cave, apparently, as the slope down the debris is more than 40 +feet high, to a rocky shelf, beyond which the descent was followed +some yards without finding any indications that a level bottom was +near. It is another illustration of the fallen roof. + +WYNNE'S CAVE.--Three miles south of Rowlett's Station is a large sink +hole. Stones thrown into the vertical shaft at the bottom can be heard +striking the sides for three or four seconds before coming to rest. + +WASH. ROWLETT CAVE.--On "the old Lewis Martin place," 11/2 miles west of +Rowlett's Station, a section of roof, 20 or 25 feet across, has +dropped into a deep cavity. The sides are still insecure. The descent +to a spring under what appears to be the original roof is somewhat +more than 40 feet. The ceiling is not more than 6 feet high. + +STEFFY'S CAVE.--Four miles southwest of Munfordville between 200 and +300 feet in length of the roof of a high and wide cave has fallen in. +Ice remains in this cave until May or later every year. + +JOEL BUCKNER'S CAVE.--About 10 miles northeast of Munfordville is a +large cave with the entrance on a hillside. The roof has evidently +extended several rods farther out than at present. The front part of +the cavern is wide and high, but is now nearly filled with debris. The +roof slopes at about the same angle as loose material within, there +being not more than 3 feet of space between the two at any place +nearer than 30 feet from the present mouth. Rocks thrown back showed +the same uniformity of slope to continue at least several yards and +the depth there to be about 20 feet below the top of the detritus at +the mouth. This cave was suitable as a habitation before the material +now choking the mouth had accumulated, provided water was obtainable. +The nearest spring now is more than a mile away. An exploration would +require, as a preliminary, the removal of several hundred cubic yards +of compacted rocks and clay. + +HARRY BUCKNER CAVE.--Half a mile north of the cavern last named is +another with a very narrow entrance. The floor, which slopes downward, +is solid rock in part, and the place is not adapted for occupancy. + +CUB RUN CAVE.--Cub Run is a little settlement 12 miles west of +Munfordville, near the Edmonson County line and about equidistant from +Green River and Nolin River. Two miles in a direct line south of the +village is a cave or rock shelter which has much local notoriety from +the fact that three skeletons were found in it. They were imbedded in +mixed ashes and earth and accompanied with several pestles, bone +perforators, three flint knives, a small celt, and part of a clay pipe +stem. One of the skeletons was that of a child not more than 8 or 10 +years old. It has been pronounced the frame of a white child on +account of the shape of the skull, but is more probably Indian, as the +three were found together. Two of the bodies had been laid side by +side; the other was near their feet at a right angle to them. In the +back of the child's head is an incision somewhat over an inch long. +The skull is slightly fractured downward from one end of this cut, and +the corner or angle thus formed in the bone is pressed outward. + +A flint implement found almost in contact with the skull fits closely +into the aperture and may have produced it, as the form of the wound +could have been thus caused. + +The cavity or chamber of this cavern is about 100 feet across in each +direction. There is a small opening near the back which has been +examined to a distance of 75 or 80 feet, being there obstructed by +large blocks of sandstone similar to those which fill the space from +floor to ceiling along the back end of the shelter. + +There is another very large block just at the entrance, in which are +one shallow and two deep circular depressions which were probably +mortars. Bones of deer, bear, and other animals have been found within +a foot or two of the surface both outside and inside of the cave. +Contrary to what is usual in sandstone cavities of this sort, the +outside earth slopes upward from the entrance and after heavy rains +considerable water flows into the cave. This makes the earth on the +floor quite sticky at times, although it is mainly sand, containing +very little clay. + +The skeletons were found at a depth of about 16 inches, close to the +side wall. A small trench dug where they were unearthed showed, in +succession, a layer of ashes 4 or 5 inches thick and not more than 3 +feet across, a foot below the surface of the floor; a few inches of +earth; a layer of ashes an inch thick, at two feet; below this, +yellowish undisturbed sand, apparently fallen from the sandstone roof, +and continuing to the rock floor, which was about 32 inches below the +top. + +Another trench was dug about midway across the cave and the same +distance from the front as the skeletons were found. This was on or +close to the line of heaviest drainage into the cave and the earth was +so wet as to be very sticky. A few little patches of what appeared to +be ashes but which had not resulted from fires made on the spot, three +or four broken mussel shells, and a chip of flint were found in the +first 18 or 20 inches. More than this amount of earth could easily +have washed in since they were left here by modern Indians. Below this +level the earth contained not the slightest object of human origin, to +the rock floor which was found at a depth of 6 feet. On the rock was +nearly pure sand, probably the result of disintegration; some clay lay +on this; then the mixed loam, sand, and clay composing the outside +soil. + +It would appear that this cave was utilized as a place of shelter at +irregular intervals by Indians in tolerably recent times; that at +least one of those found, perhaps all three, had died or been killed +during a somewhat protracted sojourn; and that only a slight covering +of earth, if any at all, had been placed over them. + +Two similar caves are within 8 or 10 miles, but were not visited. + + +EDMONSON COUNTY + +MAMMOTH CAVE.--For miles from the entrance saltpeter workers have dug +down to a level where the amount of loose rock rendered further +excavation too expensive. In many places walls of stone are piled +against the sides of the cavern. They were among the earth that was +removed and have been so piled to get them out of the way. + +As far back as "Chief City," 3 miles from the mouth of the cave, the +floor is littered with fragments of canes (reeds) and saplings, which, +from the appearance of the ends, were broken, twisted, or bruised off +with blunt tools like stone hatchets. Most of those remaining are +lying on massive loose rocks now forming the floor, though the ends of +some are seen projecting from beneath stones much larger than two men +can lift. It is possible the latter have recently slid or slipped from +higher up the slopes, but the indications are that they have dropped +from the roof since the time of these early explorers. If this be the +case, it points to a considerable antiquity for the remains, because +no such downfalls are known to have occurred since the cave was first +explored by white men. + +So much work has been done about the entrance of late years for +improving the approaches that excavation would be useless, even if +allowed, unless carried to a depth of more than 20 feet. Such work +would greatly interfere with the plans of the management. + +WHITE'S CAVE.--This is about three-fourths of a mile from Mammoth +Cave. The entrance, quite small, is near the crest of a ridge, and the +floor descends abruptly. Only a narrow chamber exists within reach of +daylight, and the cave is wet all the time a short distance back. + +COLOSSAL CAVE.--It is said to be 4 miles from Mammoth Cave, but is +really only a little more than 2 miles. The present entrance is +entirely artificial, the descent to the floor being about 120 feet. +The original entrance was in a crevice which explorers descended by +means of ropes. It is said that another entrance is known to one man +who, however, has to crawl a long distance. + +SALT CAVE.--This is 4 miles from Mammoth Cave, though belonging to the +same company. The entrance is at the bottom of a conical sink hole +draining about an acre. Not much water runs into the cave from this +cause, as the surface slopes outward from the margin except on one +side, where a ridge leads to the hills. A spring which comes out near +the top of the sink falls over a ledge at the bottom into the +entrance to the cave. It is said that this water soaks into the ground +within a few rods and that just beyond are large, dry rooms, well +adapted for habitation, which formerly contained many evidences of +aboriginal occupation. Exploration is impossible now, as the entrance +was effectually closed some years ago by throwing in logs, brush, +rocks, and earth, in order to protect the formations from relic +hunters. The water from the spring falls directly on and flows into +this, and can not now be turned aside. Even if it could, all excavated +material would have to be carried up a steep slope and deposited in +the field surrounding the sink hole. + +DIXON'S CAVE.--It is supposed, with good reason, that this was at one +time connected with Mammoth Cave. It can be easily entered, through a +large crevice, where the surface rock has fallen in. Approach to the +bottom is down a steep and rugged slope of about 60 feet vertically. +Within, no earth is visible, it having been entirely removed by +saltpeter miners, who left the rocks piled in great rows from side to +side across the cavern. + +MAMMAL CAVE.--This is so named because a tusk was formerly exhibited +at the hotel which was reported to have come from here. It was +afterwards learned that the specimen was imported from another State. +The cave is small and damp, not suitable for living or even for +stopping in. + +PROCTOR'S CAVE.--This is 6 miles from Mammoth Cave. The present +entrance is artificial and so far as could be learned the cave is a +recent discovery. + +HAUNTED CAVE.--The name is given to commemorate the fact that human +bones were found in it. Physicians, it is said, pronounced them bones +of a white person. The cave, which is on Green River, some miles below +Mammoth Cave, was not visited, as the entrance is described as a +crevice through which a man has difficulty in squeezing his way, while +the interior is nowhere more than 8 feet wide. The cave soon connects +with another narrow vertical crevice which reaches the surface at the +top of a ridge. + +BRIGGS'S CAVE.--About 6 miles west of Cave City, and 4 miles west of +north from Glasgow Junction, is a cave on land of Ike Briggs, which +was described as fit for habitation. Its entrance is in a small sink +hole, on a hillside. The approach is easy, and entry not difficult; +but the cave receives the drainage of several acres and the floor is +always muddy. + +POYNER'S CAVE.--This is a mile east of Briggs's. While a large cave, +the entrance is at the foot of a sink hole an acre in area. It is +necessary to stoop for some distance on entering, and the bottom here +is rough and wet. Farther in it is dry and roomy--so much so, that +people in the neighborhood use one chamber as a "ballroom." This part +is some distance beyond daylight. As in all caves which are entered +from a sink, it would be very difficult to dispose of any excavated +earth, as it would have to be carried up the steep slope to the +outside. + +SHORT CAVE.--Chaumont is a station on the road to Mammoth Cave, 3 +miles from the Glasgow Junction. The cavern, which is so named from +its limited extent as compared with Mammoth, is a mile from the +station. The entrance, reached by a winding way along the ridges, is +on one side of an irregular depression comprising 3 or 4 acres. At +present there is a heavy bank of earth, several feet high, across the +entrance, nearly closing it to the top, except at the middle where a +wagon road has been cut through to allow fertilizers for mushroom beds +to be hauled in. This earth, so it is stated, was not there when the +cave was discovered, but has been carried from the interior partly by +saltpeter workers, and partly by the present owner in order to cover +up some rocks and to make the floor smooth and level. In front of the +cave and of the earth piled at the entrance is a level space of 25 or +30 feet to a deep sink hole. Some water and mud, in time of wet +weather, runs into the front part of the cave but its effect is not +noticeable for more than 30 or 40 feet. Beyond this is a reach of more +than 200 feet of perfectly dry level floor. It was not so smooth +before some grading was done for the mushroom beds, but was at no time +rugged or difficult to travel over. At 300 feet from the entrance is a +slope about 20 feet high, at the foot of which begins another floor so +dry as to be dusty in places. Whether this apparent thickness of 20 +feet is of earth, or earth and stone mixed, or is indicative of a dip +in the rock floor, is not known, as no excavation has ever been made +except for the plant beds. There is a slight descent, not more than 3 +or 4 feet, from the entrance to the point where the flood water seems +to reach. This is seemingly due altogether to the wash. The width of +the cave is about 50 feet, and notwithstanding the partial closure of +the entrance there is sufficient light as far back as 200 feet to +enable one to read ordinary print. So there is ample room within reach +of daylight for several hundred people to gather without +inconvenience. + +The owner, Capt. J.B. Briggs, who lives in Russellville, has granted +permission to make any excavations desired, provided the floor be left +in good shape when done. It is evident that any satisfactory +examination will demand a large expenditure. If only a preliminary +trench were made, the necessary slope would require a considerable +width at top, while if anything should be disclosed that called for +extensive research, the earth must be wheeled or otherwise removed to +the sink hole in front, and the whole floor brought to a nearly +uniform level. + +So far as appearances go, this cavern is better adapted for occupancy +than any other which has been examined. The depth of earth shows it to +have been open for a long period. If nothing can be found here, +denoting extreme antiquity of man, it would seem useless to make +further search in central or western Kentucky. + +BEAR CREEK.--A very large rock house is on the right bank of Bear +Creek, 3 miles above its mouth. It would afford good shelter to a +large number of people, except in rainy seasons when they were most in +need of it. After heavy storms the creek covers the entire floor. + +Other rock-shelters exist along Green River above and below Bear +Creek. They are not worth investigating. Some are flooded; others +difficult of access; still others become muddy after rains; while in +none of them is there any great depth of earth. + + +WARREN COUNTY + +CRUMP'S CAVE.--A mile north of Smith's Grove is a large sink hole, +from one side of which extends a cave nearly a mile long. There is +abundant room and a good light near the front, and it is reported that +quantities of ashes were formerly to be seen on the earth a short +distance in. A considerable outside area drains into the cave, and the +floor at the present time is everywhere so wet as to be quite muddy. +Much water also falls from the roof. A hydraulic ram, not far from the +entrance, formerly forced water from one of these falls to the farm +residence. A descent of 6 feet, over large rocks and wet earth, brings +one to the nearly level floor, 40 feet from the mouth. The amount of +flood water running into the cave is indicated by a gully 4 feet deep +and the same in width, while trash and driftwood litter the floor from +wall to wall for more than a hundred yards. + +THOMAS CAVE.--This is a mile north of Bowling Green. The roof of a +cavern has fallen in and forms a high mound of rocky debris, down +which a path winds on each side, giving access toward either end of +the cavern. There is scarcely a possibility that it was ever occupied. + +MILL CAVE.--Three miles south of Bowling Green a stream emerges from +the foot of a slope, flows a hundred yards through a canyon-like open +channel, and disappears under a cliff. This is another instance of an +open cave due to a falling roof. The open end is large and forms an +excellent shelter for cattle. On either side of the stream, under the +cliff, is a shelf or projecting ledge, covered with loose stones. +Neither is 2 feet higher than the water level in a wet season. + + +BARREN COUNTY + +PAYNE CAVE.--This, also known as Saltpeter Cave, is near Temple Hill, +9 miles southeast of Glasgow. The bluff in which it is situated is a +conglomerate limestone, rising from the waters of Skagg's Creek. The +cave has three different entrances, 100 feet or more apart, and each +entrance is broken into three or four by columns or masses of stone +that have resisted erosion. None of the entrances is large, or opens +into spacious chambers within daylight. Flood marks are visible in +all, and it is said that after prolonged or heavy spring rains the +water covers the floors. + +BEN SMITH'S CAVE.--This was discovered while digging out a fox den. It +is a tunnel-like cavity, not more than 6 feet high or wide, and not +suitable for habitation. It lies a mile and a half south of Temple +Hill. + +FORD'S CAVE.--This is between Freedom and Mount Hermon, about 14 miles +southeast of Glasgow. Originally the entrance was about 8 feet high +and 20 feet wide, and opened into a well-lighted chamber probably 40 +feet wide and 60 feet long. The floor was of earth and level, with +ample space between it and the roof, as shown by marks on the walls, +for people to move about readily in any part of the room. The entrance +is now artificially closed by earth and stone, except for a space 4 +feet square in which a door is hung. Old men in the neighborhood claim +they can remember when the floor was 20 feet lower than at present; a +manifest impossibility, for that measure would bring it several feet +lower than the bed of Mill Creek just in front of the cave. They also +claim that blocks of conglomerate and travertine 5 to 10 feet in each +dimension have formed from "drip" within their recollection; which, if +true, would prove these persons to be almost contemporaneous with the +cave men. The more probable statement is also made by them that in +early days saltpeter workers dug up and leached all the earth in the +cave, filling the entrance and the narrow space before it with the +leached earth from the front part of the cave and throwing that from +farther back into the cavities and pits left by the prior workings. +Inside the cave, near the entrance, is a never-failing spring whose +waters flow through a short, narrow crevice at one side. While easily +accessible, the water does not reach any of the earth floor. + +This would have been an excellent site for aboriginal residence, but +there is now no undisturbed earth within daylight nor for some +distance beyond, and no one can remember that anything of an +artificial nature was ever exhumed. + +THE ESMITH CAVES.--Two caves situated on Peters Creek near Dry Fork +post office, 14 miles southeast of Glasgow, were reported to be +admirably suited for shelter purposes. The smaller is not more than a +foot high, from floor to roof, and is filled with flood water after +every heavy rain. The larger is above flood line, but the entrance is +not over 2 feet high, and the "cave" is scarcely sufficient for a +sheep shelter. If the floor were cleared off to a depth of 4 feet from +its present level, it would be covered whenever the creek reached +high-water mark. + +BONE CAVE.--Five miles east of Glasgow human bones were found in a +cavern. Particulars could not be obtained. The cave is on a hillside +and is entered through a narrow crevice by straddling the walls or +going down a ladder. Rocks and trash form a mound in this, the top +being 15 feet below the outside surface. On either side of this mound +one can make his way continuously downward to darkness, and a rock +thrown ahead can be heard going on down some distance over loose +stones. If human bones were ever found in here, either they were +thrown in or some person fell in and was unable to escape. + +SLICK ROCK CAVE.--This is near the post office of Slick Rock, 7 miles +east of Glasgow. The entrance is in a narrow crevice at the brow of a +low hill. The descent is steep and rugged to beyond daylight. + +LOVE'S CAVE.--This is located on Dr. Love's farm, 3 miles north of +Slick Rock. It is now used for storing apples and potatoes. The +entrance is through a large sink hole, formed by the falling in of the +roof of a cave which was at least 50 feet wide at this point. As is +usual, the debris has blocked the cave in one direction. Descent is +regular, though steep, along the slope into the other end of the cave. +The floor is wet and muddy the entire year on account of the drip from +roof and overhanging rock at the mouth. The vertical distance from top +of the debris to the level floor is about 30 feet, and from the top to +the outer surface about 20 feet more. Any attempt at excavation would +be difficult and costly, and conditions are such as to make it +probably fruitless. + + +MONROE COUNTY + +Four caves in this county were represented as being worth +investigation. All are north of Tompkinsville, the county seat. + +(1) A rock house in the conglomerate sandstone on the land of Dr. E.E. +Palmer, 7 miles north of Tompkinsville, shows smoke stains on the +ceiling, and some flint chips among the gravel and earth in front +where they have been exposed by water dripping over the face of the +cliff. There is, however, only 2 to 4 feet of space between the earth +floor and the roof, across the cave from side to side, a distance of +20 feet, and from the front to a point 10 feet back. From this rear +portion the earth slopes downward, parallel with the roof of the cave, +to the wall behind. The amount of descent could not be accurately +ascertained owing to the cramped space, but seems to be 5 or 6 feet. +At about that level on the outside a ledge was found on both sides of +the entrance and appears to continue across. If so, the earth covers +the part immediately in front of the cave. Neither tools nor men could +be found to do any trenching, but it is not probable the shelter was +ever high enough for a man to stand erect in, because most, or all, of +the floor earth must have come from the ceiling. + +(2) A mile north of Dr. Palmer's is the McCreary Cave. The entrance is +from 60 to 70 feet across and the cavern reaches back fully a hundred +feet without any diminution of breadth. Two branches then start under +the hill. Each has been explored more than a mile. From each branch +flows a considerable brook. They unite near the entrance, sink into +the floor, and reappear as a strong spring 30 feet lower in the ravine +leading from the cave. The earth is not more than 3 feet deep near the +front. It becomes greater in amount farther back, but is wet +everywhere below the level of the running water, consequently no +excavation was practicable. Flood marks show that the whole floor, +except in places a strip along the side walls, is completely submerged +at times. On one side a rock ledge or shelf above reach of the water +is covered with dry loose earth from 1 to 3 feet deep. This has been +dug up in nearly every part by treasure seekers, but nothing of human +workmanship has ever been found. + +(3) The Belcher Cave is 7 miles northwest of Tompkinsville. It is also +called Mill Cave, because a gristmill near the foot of the hill below +it is run by the outflowing stream. The entrance is wide and high; the +front chamber or vault is fully a hundred feet across each way. But +the bedrock is exposed in places and the earth is not more than 2 feet +thick anywhere. Water from the brook percolating through this keeps +the lower portion saturated. + +(4) On John Black Tuley's land, on Meshach Creek, 6 miles northeast of +Tompkinsville, two human skeletons were found in a small opening, +which has since been known as the Bone Cave. It is a room not over 10 +feet across at any part, in a limestone conglomerate, and may be of +quite recent origin. Being inconvenient of access, it is not in a +position for residence purposes. The skeletons, which were less than 2 +feet below the surface, were probably those of Indian hunters. The +material in which the little cave is formed will crumble easily in +cold weather, being rather wet from the soil water soaking through the +hill above it. + +There are other caves in this county, but from the descriptions they +do not seem at all suited even for temporary camping needs. + + +LOGAN COUNTY + +Very little limestone appears in Logan County, the surface rock being +mostly conglomerate. A reconnoissance was made here, however, from +Russellville to Diamond Springs, to investigate "a broad valley" which +was reported to extend in a general north and south direction from the +Ohio, near Brandenburg, toward the Cumberland. It was also claimed +that beds of drift gravel exist at a considerable elevation above the +little creek now flowing through the valley and that rock shelters are +numerous at various levels. + +As there is an abandoned drainage system, different from the present, +somewhere in this part of Kentucky, which has never been traced, the +place seemed worth a visit. The result was disappointing. + +The valley is due entirely to causes now at work. The gravel beds +result from weathering of lower Coal Measure conglomerates. The rock +shelters are shallow, or with a thin covering of earth on the floor, +or subject to overflow. None was found that offered any incentive for +examination. + + +TODD COUNTY + +On the farm of Mr. Robert Glover, 31/2 miles southwest of Trenton, is a +cave known generally as "Bell's Cave," from a former owner. This forms +the outlet of a large sink hole, all the rainfall of 6 or 8 acres +draining out through it. The entrance is wide and deep, with an easy +descent to the level floor. It was for a long time a shelter for +Indians, for there is a layer of ashes more than 6 feet in depth, 50 +or 60 feet long, and about 15 or 20 feet wide. These represent the +probable original dimensions, but the top has been leveled for a +dancing floor, and the drainage water has cut away a large part of it, +depositing the material farther back in the cave. Six feet of vertical +face is exposed at one place by the water, but the ashes extend still +deeper. It is said that bone needles, animal bones, antlers, mussel +shells ("different from any in the creek now"), burnt rock, and much +broken pottery were found in leveling the top. A very fine polished +flint celt 12 inches or more in length is also reported. One human +skeleton has been found, either at the edge of the ash bed or a few +feet away from the edge. The floor is covered, where the earth is +washed off, with flint nodules and fragments, and the slopes outside +have considerable on the surface. The gullies washed along the slope +are paved with nodules like a macadamized road, and in a few places +the streams have cut into them so as to show a foot or more at the +lower part of the bank so filled and packed with nodules that a knife +blade could not be thrust in more than 2 or 3 inches. But there is no +evidence of aboriginal quarrying. Probably the Indians dug nodules +out of the gullies, for chips are found above and on each side of the +mouth of the cave. + +To the west, on top of the hill in which the sink hole occurs, and +beginning at its edge, is an aboriginal cemetery. There are two small +mounds and numerous graves. Scores of the latter have been opened. +They are all alike; flat stones form bottom, ends, sides, and top. +Many have only one skeleton; others more. The greatest number yet +found in one was six. Few are more than a foot deep or much over 5 +feet long. About one in ten contains relics of some sort--in two or +three entire pots, beads, arrowheads, and gorgets occurred. + +I opened three; two contained one body each. The face of one was down, +but all the other bones of this and all the bones in the second grave +were so decayed that no statement of their position can be made. In +the third grave, which was 21/2 feet deep--the deepest yet found--were +three bodies. Two lay with faces north; the other, behind these, with +face south. The grave was 24 inches wide and less than 6 feet long. +Most skeletons (it is reported) were doubled up; often the graves were +not over 3 feet long and 10 to 16 inches wide. In some the bones +denoted skeleton burial. One skull had been perforated by a ball; at +least there was a round hole on each side exactly such as would have +been produced by a bullet. + +Another large cemetery is on the farm of Mr. G.S. Wood, next north of +Glover's. Mr. Wood has opened 50 or more graves and found some relics. + +Flint arrows, spears, knives, drills, hoes, spades, and celts, not to +mention unfinished pieces, have been found by the thousand on the +surface within a mile radius of these cemeteries. + +It would seem useless to make any further examination of the level +limestone region of central or southern Kentucky. Nearly all the minor +drainage is underground, and most of the caves have inlets through +sink holes or in small crevices. The water supply is scanty except +along streams, and in such situations the caves are usually, for +various reasons, of such character as to preclude a continuous +occupation, or one extending to a very ancient date. Search is more +likely to be rewarded in the mountains where an ample water supply is +always at hand. + + * * * + + +TENNESSEE + +MONTGOMERY COUNTY + +DUNBAR'S CAVE.--Three miles east of Clarksville a large cave has been +fitted up as a summer resort. The earth has been leveled around the +entrance, both inside and outside, floors laid for picnics and other +gatherings, booths, refreshment stands, and places of amusement +erected and the surrounding grounds somewhat improved. On account of +all this, the place has become quite noted. At present there is from +15 to 20 feet of loose stones and earth on the solid rock floor, and a +strong stream makes its way beneath them. It could never have been +occupied in prehistoric times until the debris had practically reached +the stage at which it was found by the whites. + +INDIAN MOUND CAVE.--A report was received to the effect that the mouth +of a cave on the Stewart County line, about 18 miles west of +Clarksville, had been closed by a rock wall, and earth piled against +the outside of the wall; also, that tool marks are quite distinct in a +chamber which is plainly of artificial origin. + +The rock wall is the stratified rock, in place; the earth in front has +washed down from the hillside; the tool marks are water channelings; +and other remarkable things mentioned in the report are equally +natural. The entrance is a narrow crevice. + + +SULLIVAN COUNTY + +LINVILLE CAVE.--This is 4 miles almost directly west of Bluff City. +Apparently it is of great extent, for large sink holes connected with +it are scattered over an area of several hundred acres. There are +three principal openings. The largest is near the top of a knoll or +low hill, and is due to the falling in of the roof. The sunken part +has an area of about 30 by 60 feet. Usually, in such cases, the debris +entirely fills one end of the cavity thus made, obscuring that part of +the cavern, the other end being kept open by surface drainage. In this +case, owing to the dip of the strata--some 8 or 10 degrees--and to a +change in direction of the cavern at this point, both ends may be +entered from the fallen rocks and earth. At one side the descent is +precipitous and winding, over and among large fallen rocks. No level +place is reached in daylight. At the other side the descent follows +the natural dip of the strata and no level space can be found from +which the entrance is visible. This part, also, is filled with rocks, +large and small, from the roof and sides, and was never habitable. + +Fifty yards from the main entrance is another much smaller cave, on +the slope of the knoll. It is at the bottom of a crevice 10 feet deep. +The floor is level, but only a few square yards in extent, the sloping +roof reaching it within 10 feet. As there is considerable drainage +into the cavity from the hillside, it is probable that this floor, at +least the upper portion, is of recent origin, and that the earth +extends downward indefinitely toward the subterranean stream. + +West of the knoll on which these openings are found is a valley 2 or 3 +miles long. Timber shuts off the view toward its head. This is +drained by a constant stream which after winding from side to side of +the little vale flows under the knoll. The hole where it disappears is +small, but as no rock floor is visible it may lead into a large +cavern, and there is no doubt that all the sink holes in the vicinity +as well as the two openings above described eventually have the same +outlet. Excavations would be difficult and useless. + +THOMAS CAVE.--In the face of a steep hillside, near the south (left) +bank of the Holston, 3 miles east of Bluff City, is a room with a +nearly level floor 10 by 18 feet in the longest measurements. A narrow +passage, high enough for a man to walk in, branches off to the right +but soon begins to diminish in size and at 100 feet becomes too small +to crawl through. The debris in front of the cave is piled to a height +of 16 feet above the present floor, and the highest floods of the +river reach to about the same level on the outside. The rapid +disappearance of the surface water which finds its way in indicates an +underground passage to the river, so that a solid floor would not +probably be reached above the ordinary water level. + +ARKLOW CAVE.--This is a mile and a half southeast of Bluff City. It +was reported to have a level earth floor, not more than 4 feet below +the accumulation outside. While this was formerly the case, +cultivation of the hills around now causes a great amount of surface +water to flow over the little bluff into which the cave opens, and +this has carried nearly all of the loose earth away through some +underground channel. The descent for upward of 30 feet is steep and +rugged; it was not traced farther. + +MORRELL CAVE.--On the south side of the Holston River, 21/2 miles east +of Bluff City, lies the farm of E.S. Worley. Except for a narrow strip +of river bottom land, the surface is broken and rocky, the highest +point being some 400 feet above the stream. Beginning near the brow of +the river hill the central portion of the farm is in a depression +whose very irregular rim or watershed surrounds an area of more than +100 acres. All the water that falls within this space drains into a +sink hole the bottom of which is but little above flood stage of the +Holston. On the south side of this sink is a vertical bluff 120 feet +high, from whose foot emerges a stream that after a winding course of +50 or 60 yards disappears in a small opening on the east side of the +sink hole, and finally comes to the surface at the foot of the hill, +near the river. Its volume is sufficient, even in time of severest +drought, to turn the undershot wheel of a large mill. The course of +the stream above the point where it is first visible is through a cave +which has been traced to the foot of the Holston Mountains, 3 miles +away, and there are many unexplored branches. Chambers are known with +a cross measure of 100 feet or more, and some of them have a height +nearly as great. Stalactites and stalagmites, some of them possessing +unusual size and beauty, are abundant. + +The sink hole is due to the falling in of the roof of the cave, which +could no doubt be followed to the river if it were free from +obstructions in this direction. + +North of west from the mouth of the cave is another opening, partly in +the same strata but 40 feet higher, the dip of the rock being 10 or 12 +degrees to the southeast. This was so blocked with talus which had +fallen from the cliff and washed down the side of the sink hole that +it was necessary to creep nearly 40 feet from the entrance, down a +moderate slope, before coming to a point where it was possible to +stand upright. From here progress to the junction of the two caves, +about half a mile from the entrance, is easy except where fallen rocks +interfere somewhat. + +Early in the Civil War a large amount of saltpeter was manufactured +here. A dam was constructed just within the mouth of the main cave, +and in the pool thus formed boats were used to transport the material +from the interior. The workmen not required for handling the craft +usually preferred to walk through the upper cave to the place where +the earth was procured. + +The combination of natural features at this place is unusually +favorable to aboriginal habitation. The main cave is excluded from +consideration by reason of the stream filling it from wall to wall +after very heavy rains. The upper cave, however, showed, beyond the +debris choking the entrance, a level floor, cumbered, it is true, by +fallen rocks, but apparently quite suitable for a dwelling place were +these removed. Although opening toward the north, its position so far +below the summits of the surrounding hills protects it from winter +winds. The creek assures an ample supply of clear cold water. +Mountains, refuge for game, are in sight in various directions, while +the Holston River is less than a quarter of a mile away. + +In order to remove the debris a point 3 feet below the lowest spot on +the floor was selected on the slope outside. From here a trench was +carried in on a level, the additional depth being taken to facilitate +clearing away all material that had accumulated inside the cavern in +comparatively recent time, and thus lighten the task of deeper +excavations should these be required. The trench needed to be only +wide enough at the bottom to allow room for running a wheelbarrow, but +owing to the great amount of broken rock, loosely held together by a +small quantity of earth, the sides continually gave way, so that by +the time it was safe to pass through the trench was 25 feet wide at +the top and 24 feet deep at the mouth of the cave. The rocks were of +every size from small pebbles to blocks weighing more than a ton each. + +Nothing whatever of artificial character, not even a flint chip or +fragment of charcoal, was unearthed until at a point 4 feet inside the +farthest projecting stratum of the roof. Here was found a prehistoric +stone wall whose outer side and top had been entirely concealed by +debris. On the inner side the upper portion was visible, owing to the +fact that the owner had gathered a quantity of loose stones to +construct a wall farther down the slope. Previous to this the ancient +wall was entirely covered by the detritus, and even after this partial +exposure its true nature was not suspected. It was about 6 feet high, +built up of rocks of various sizes and shapes loosely fitted together, +earth from the outside surface being used to level up in places where +the stones would not bind properly. The largest rock in the top layer +weighed about 800 pounds. + +The horizontal distance between the top of the wall as it was when +cleared off and the corresponding portion of the cave roof was 4 feet; +to the roof directly above it, about 2 feet. Apparently it had at one +time entirely closed the entrance; at the western end where it abutted +against the solid rock the upper portion was firmly consolidated by +travertine. Directly above it, nearly 2 feet higher, a slab and some +small irregular fragments were securely attached to the side and roof +by the same agency. A crevice in the bedrock just at the end of the +artificial wall contained several wagonloads of small rocks which had +been thrown into it. These also were united into a solid mass by the +travertine, all of which had been deposited by water flowing through +the crevice. It does not follow that the wall was ever higher toward +the opposite end than at this time. In the centuries that have elapsed +since it was put up, the roof at the front of the cave, being rather +thin-bedded, may have disintegrated. It was not possible to uncover +the wall in shape for illustrating; portions of it continually +crumbled as the looser material piled against it was removed. + +From the wall inward the foreign material piled against the west side +of the cave was composed almost entirely of small rocks, with scarcely +any earth, and so compactly bound with travertine and stalagmite as to +resist all attempts to remove it by ordinary means. On the east +side--the left as the cave is entered--there was a great variation in +the size of the stones; they were intermixed with much loose dry +earth, and there was scarcely any "drip-formation" in the mass. The +removal of all this disclosed a projection of solid rock forming a +shelf from 8 to 12 feet wide, whose top was about 2 feet higher than +the bottom of our trench. About 20 feet from the ancient wall the +trench reached the original bottom of the cave as the latter was left +by the stream to which its origin was due. This was the tough red or +yellow clay, filled with water-worn stones such as appear in all +gullies or ravines in this region. It contained a small quantity of +stalagmitic material here and there and gradually rose until at 20 +feet farther, or 40 feet from the old wall, it terminated against +solid bedrock, reaching across the cave, the entire width of which at +this point was 26 feet. The shelf on the left belonged to the same +stratum. + +This brought the work to the terminus that had been the aim from the +first, namely, the lowest level of the floor, which was thus shown to +be only a foot above the solid rock instead of at least 10 or 12 feet +as the general appearance of the entrance and its surroundings had +indicated. It was completely cleaned off as far as this was possible, +but within 3 feet of the end of the trench began a mass several feet +in thickness of fragmentary rocks of every size up to 20 tons or more +which had fallen from the roof and were bound together by stalagmite. + +Altogether, more than 300 cubic yards of material were removed. The +workmen had been carefully instructed as to what the search was for, +and kept a close lookout, as evidenced by the very small objects they +were continually offering for inspection. It is safe to say that not a +spadeful of earth missed scrutiny; but, aside from the artificial +wall, the only traces of human presence were three valves of mussels, +a turkey bone rudely pointed for use as a perforator, and three or +four bones which seem to have been subjected to fire. Not a chip of +flint or other stone showing work, no ashes or charcoal, not a piece +of pottery, were discovered. If aboriginal burials were made in the +cave--and the wall is almost definite proof of such fact--they are +either on the floor under stalagmite or in crevices now concealed by +fallen rocks. + +Numerous small fragments of animal bones were found scattered singly +at all depths in the material removed. Nearly every one showed marks +of the teeth of rodents. According to Prof. F.A. Lucas, of the +National Museum, they all belong to modern species except one tooth, +which is that of the cave tapir, and (possibly) the jaw of an otter. + + +BLEDSOE COUNTY + +COLLEGE CAVE.--About three-fourths of a mile west from the old +Sequatchie College is a cave which was described as the largest in the +county, and as the only one in which people might ever have lived. The +opening is about 5 feet wide and 4 feet high; and from it comes a +stream sufficient to run a mill. + +No other caves could be located in this county or in the Sequatchie +Valley north of it. + + +SEQUATCHIE COUNTY + +LAKEY'S CAVE.--In the foothills of the Cumberland Plateau, about 5 +miles southeast of Dunlap, the county seat, is the largest cave in the +county. A great quantity of earth and rock has accumulated in front of +the entrance, washed from the mountain side over an area of several +acres. Formerly most of the surface drainage carrying this down flowed +into the cave, thus keeping a passageway open through which a man +could crawl. Ditches have recently been cut to turn away the water, +the entrance walled up, a solid door hung, and the cave is now used +for a storeroom. It was never habitable. + +A mile north of the above-mentioned cave, toward Dunlap, is a cave +with a very large entrance: a sort of rock-house or half dome. The +floor is covered with huge rocks and a constant stream flows out. It +is said that a party once entered Lakey's Cave and emerged at this +one. There is no dry place in it. + +PICKETT'S CAVE.--Seven miles southwest of Dunlap is a cave, described +as having an ample entrance, with much room inside, perfectly dry, and +opening in a cliff 20 or 30 feet above a large, never-failing spring. +The description is correct as to location, but not as to size. The +opening is about 4 feet across each way, with a slight covering of +earth on the floor. The cave winds like a flattened corkscrew. At no +place near enough to the mouth for a glimmer of light to penetrate is +the roof more than 5 feet above the floor or the side walls more than +5 feet apart. + +There are two recesses in the cliff on the opposite side of the little +creek formed by the spring. They are 40 to 50 feet above the water, +each with an irregular floor of 20 by 30 feet under shelter of the +rock. No solid rock is visible in front of them, but a projecting +ledge, which seems continuous, appears on either side about 6 feet +below the present average level of the floor; and this is probably the +depth of accumulation at the front. It may be less toward the rear. +The cavities are in a stratum which is somewhat shelly and crumbles +easily. + +HIXSON'S CAVE.--Six miles northeast of Dunlap is a cave said to be +large, accessible, dry, and well suited for occupancy. It is on the +side of Walden's ridge, 400 feet or more above the base, a mile from +water, and with an opening in the solid rock that can not be entered +except on hands and knees. By the time one can straighten up he is in +absolute darkness. + +LAND COMPANY'S CAVE.--This is 7 miles northeast of Dunlap. To enter, +one must crawl between the rock front and the detritus, descending 10 +or 12 feet. The floor is fairly level, where it can be found, but is +nearly hidden from sight by rocks of all sizes, over and between which +it is necessary to scramble almost from the starting point. + +HENSON'S CAVE.--This cave, 9 or 10 miles northeast from Dunlap, and +perhaps in Bledsoe County, is somewhere on Raccoon Mountains, near the +head of a valley up which a mountain road winds along in the bed of a +stream. It is said to have a dry dirt floor, with an entrance through +which one must crawl. After driving until the horses were tired out +and being assured at several scattered cabins that it was "jest a +leetle mite furder up thar," search for it was abandoned. + + +GRUNDY COUNTY + +HUBLIN'S OR BAT CAVE.--Numerous caves and rock-shelters are reported +in the region about Beersheba Springs. The shelters seem to be shallow +with comparatively little earth on the floor. Of the caves, the +description given of all but the one named was such as to show them +not worth visiting. It is about 10 miles northwest of the springs. Its +course is approximately parallel with the mountain ridge, passing +under two low foothills or spurs separated by a ravine. When the +stream flowing through the latter had cut its channel down to the top +of the cave it poured into the hole it had worn. Frost and the natural +erosion have made an opening more than 60 feet long. Both parts of the +cave remain open, being too large at this point to become choked by +the small amount of material which the brook had left as a roof. In +some places, so far as it was examined, the ceiling is 50 feet or more +above the rocks covering the floor; and one end, that into which the +ravine drains, has a continuous and rather steep descent, along the +natural dip, as far as it could be followed. Where the exploration +ended logs, drift, brush, etc., piled 10 or 12 feet high against huge +rocks that had tumbled down, proved a current strong enough to wash +away any deposits that may ever have existed; consequently the only +earth in this end was that brought by floods. + +The other end of the cave is large, with an entrance of such size that +small print could easily be read 100 feet from the front if the broad +fence across it were removed. This fence was made to close the cave +against changes of temperature and also against marauders, it having +been used until lately as a storage room for fruit, potatoes, etc. + +During the Civil War it was worked for saltpeter. All the earth, down +to the rock floor, was removed, even in crevices only wide enough for +a man to squeeze through. An incline was built so that horses could be +brought into the cave, and no earth now remains within reach of +daylight. The rock floor is almost as clean as if swept. + +Their exhaustive digging extended for about 200 yards from the +entrance. The "face" of the earth is here about 15 feet high; for some +reason, which could not be learned, the miners continued their work +from here by means of a tunnel 4 or 5 feet high and wide, leaving a +floor of earth, and a covering of the same nearly 6 feet thick. This +tunnel was not followed. + +Near the entrance a crevice barely wide enough for a man to walk in +and in some places only 4 feet high turns off toward the left and +holds practically the same size for about 100 yards. Here it becomes +larger and higher. Earth has been carried out of this and its narrow +branches wherever there is room to use a shovel. In a large chamber +200 yards from the front, at the end of the crevice, much digging was +done; the "face" left is 13 or 14 feet high. + +As far as the diggers went, there is nothing left to explore. Beyond +that it is not probable any remains can be found, as it is totally +dark long before any remaining earth is reached. + + +FRANKLIN COUNTY + +Several caves were reported in the vicinity of Sewanee and Monteagle. +They are objects of curiosity to students and summer residents who +frequently visit and make tours through them. They have thus acquired +a fame much beyond what is justified by their real interest. They seem +to be wet, or with contracted entrances and front chambers, or +difficult of access, and, so far as could be judged by the +descriptions given, none of them is worth examining. + + +MARION COUNTY + +ACCOUNT'S CAVES.--There are two of these, both with high and large +openings, on the right bank of the Tennessee, 2 miles above Shellmound +or Nickajack. One is in the face of the bluff, the entrance 50 feet +above the river bottom land. Huge rocks lie in front and over nearly +all the floor. Surface water flows in at the entrance and after +winding its crooked way among the rocks sinks at a point 25 or 30 feet +below the top of the debris in front of the entrance. This indicates +an open way to the river, so the bottom of the cave is probably down +nearly or quite to the water level. + +The second cave is 100 yards above the first. A little stream, whose +head is in a valley, nearly a mile away, flows around the foot of the +bluff and into the mouth of the cave. When the Tennessee rises to +flood height the backwater comes into the bed of this stream through +the cave before submerging the low ridge between it and the river. + +CALDWELL'S CAVE.--This is on the right bank of the Sequatchie River, a +mile above its junction with the Tennessee. It is said that formerly a +man could walk into it easily for 20 or 30 feet and then crawl 50 or +60 feet farther. This is probably an error of memory. By stooping one +can now go in about 10 feet from the edge of the roof, and with a pole +feel where the floor and roof come together, nowhere more than 10 or +12 feet beyond. It is said, also, that this accumulation results from +throwing in earth to prevent foxes from having a den in the cave. A +small hole might thus be closed, but it is too much to believe that +the people now living around here would carry in many hundred cubic +yards of earth for any such purpose. + +Human bones are reported unearthed near the surface; at least bones of +some sort were found which the discoverers supposed were human. + +The entrance to the cave is more than 25 feet in width, and about 25 +feet above the flood plain of the Sequatchie, or only 15 feet above +extreme high water. It is in the only exposure of rock for nearly half +a mile along the bluff. On either side of the opening the walls are +solid, down to the alluvial earth, but in front of the cavity only +detritus can be seen from top to bottom. For this reason it is +improbable that any solid bottom could be found above the level of the +river. Much of the stone weathers out in small fragments, and the +process of disintegration is going on continually, as shown by the +fresh appearance of the sheltered fragments. How rapid or how regular +it may have been in former time is impossible to guess, so that +excavation, to be of any value, would have to begin at the bottom of +the slope, with the knowledge that the original floor of the cave may +be still lower. + +NICKAJACK CAVE.--This is the largest and most widely known cave in +Tennessee. It is half a mile from and within plain sight of the +railway station of Shellmound, 20 miles west of Chattanooga. The +entrance is fully 100 feet wide and 40 feet high; a short distance +within the cave enlarges, a little farther it contracts somewhat. +Daylight penetrates, in spite of curves and immense piles of debris, +for more than 500 feet. It has been a resort from time out of mind; +first, for Indians and pioneers, then for refugees, now for various +social gatherings. + +All the earth in sight has been worked for saltpeter, leached, and +thrown aside. A vastly greater quantity than now remains has been +washed out of the cave by Nickajack Creek, which always has some +flowing water and in wet weather rises 5 or 6 feet. Long bridges are +required where the highway and railroad cross it. + +It takes its name from the Nickajack Indians, who once dwelt here. The +field in front is strewn with flint chips and other indications of +aboriginal settlement. + +There is nothing in the cave to dig for. The saltpeter miners moved +all the earth they could reach, while the immense rocks and the creek +make any further excavations impossible. + + +HAMILTON COUNTY + +There are many caves in the vicinity of Chattanooga, but all that were +visited possess some feature which makes examination appear useless. +Most of them have small, inconvenient entrances; others are subject to +overflow or have running water in them. None could be heard of in +which conditions were better. + + * * * + + +ALABAMA + +LAUDERDALE COUNTY + +SMITHSONIA.--There is a noted cave at Smithsonia, near Cheatham's +Ferry, 15 miles west of Florence. It was reported as suitable for a +dwelling, but at the entrance the roof is not more than 4 feet high, +and a stream a foot deep reaches to the wall on either side. + +KEY'S CAVE.--On the Buck Key farm, 6 miles west of Florence, is a cave +which may have afforded shelter to the earliest man in the region. +There are two entrances or antechambers, separated by a solid rock +partition a few yards thick. One is partially filled with huge solid +blocks, some of them several hundred cubic feet in size; the other has +in it and in front of it a mass of earth and loose rock whose crest is +fully 20 feet above the highest part of the inside floor a few feet +back from the front margin of the roof. From here an additional +descent of 10 feet leads to the floor behind the first-mentioned +entrance, and there is about the same descent to a nearly level floor +in the cave a short distance beyond. The way is partially blocked by +large rocks which, it is said, have fallen within a few years. For +this reason persons in the neighborhood are afraid to venture in. +There is a rumor that the corpse of a woman, coated with stalagmite, +can be seen in this cave; also several bodies (sex apparently +indeterminate) lying like spokes in a wheel, with heads at the center. +No one could be persuaded to go in and point out the place where they +lie. + +From its position, high in a bluff but easy to reach, not more than +one-fourth of a mile from the Tennessee River and the same distance +from a clear creek, with a strip of bottom land between it and the +streams, this cave seems worthy of exploration. At least a month of +work by several laborers would be required to clean away the fallen +material so that excavations would be practicable. + +COLYER'S CAVE.--This is about 5 miles west of Florence. It faces a +ravine that leads into the creek discharging near Key's Cave. Human +bones were found in it many years ago. The entrance is a round hole, +through which one must creep a few yards, then by means of a pole or +ladder descend 6 feet. From here the cave is nearly level, with +several branches. In some places the floor is solid rock; in other +parts it is covered with a thin layer of earth. The "human bones" +consisted of one skeleton, lying on a rock floor, fully a fourth of a +mile from the mouth of the cave. + +COFFEE CAVE.--This cave, 4 miles west of Florence, is said to be "like +the Colyer cave, but smaller in every way." It was not visited. + +SHOAL CREEK.--A cave is reported on Shoal Creek "3 or 4 miles above +its mouth." No one could be found who knew its location more +definitely or was able to give a clear description of it. + +BLUEWATER CAVE.--Bluewater Creek comes in several miles above Lock No. +6 of the Mussel Shoals Canal. A cave is reported to be near its mouth, +but the only caves anywhere in that vicinity, so far as anyone living +or working there knows, are a small hole a mile below on the canal, +into which a man can crawl, and one some 3 miles up the creek, reached +by climbing down a sink hole in a field. The opening to the latter +results from fallen rock. + + +COLBERT COUNTY + +NEWSOM SPRINGS.--Numerous caves, most of them small, are reported in +the county. The best known is at Newsom Springs, 8 miles south of +Barton, on the Southern Railway. It is locally known as the +"three-story cave." The lower "story" is a cave from which water +always flows. The second "story" is directly above the first. The two +have no connection, unless far back in the hill. The floor of the +upper cave is mostly rock. It is now fitted up by some people in the +neighborhood as a camping place, where they spend a part of each +summer. The third "story" is an excavation for a cellar under a house +recently erected. + +MURRELL'S CAVE.--Tradition has it that this cave was one of the hiding +places of a famous desperado and horse thief whose gang operated over +all this country in early days. The only entry is by means of a ladder +in a narrow crevice 20 feet deep. The place may have been a refuge, +but never a residence. It is one-fourth of a mile from Bear Creek, not +far above the mouth. + +Two other holes or crevices within a few hundred yards, difficult to +crawl through, reach small caves. Possibly all these are connected. + +BAT CAVE.--One-fourth of a mile from Murrell's Cave is a small cavern, +the roof not more than 4 feet above the floor. It has been inhabited +from time immemorial by myriads of bats. Several tons of guano have +been taken out for fertilizing purposes, but no evidence has been +discovered that it was ever a habitation for humans. + +PRIDE'S CAVE.--In the river bluff a mile from Pride Station is a cave +in which a fisherman has made his home for several years. There is a +rather thin deposit of earth on the floor which may have recently +accumulated. + +CHEATHAM'S FERRY.--Near the landing some boys, while hunting a few +years ago, discovered a stone wall across the mouth of a small cave. +Tearing it away, they found within some human bones, flints, pipes, +including one "with a lot of stem holes," and fragments of pottery. +All these were on top of the earth or only a few inches below it. +Various excavators or relic hunters have failed to find anything more. +The cavity is quite small and difficult to reach, and is undoubtedly a +burial place for modern Indians. + +On both sides of the river here are immense shell heaps. The shell is +mingled with earth near the top, but below 2 or 3 feet the mass is of +clean shell to a depth, as exposed by the river, of at least 10 feet. +The bottom of the deposit is not visible, being concealed by mud piled +against it in high water. The old ferryman says it is 20 feet deep. +Although the shell piles are built up higher than the bottom lands to +the rear or on either side, they are submerged several feet in great +freshets. It is impossible to explain this fact otherwise than by the +assumption that the bed of the river has been elevated in recent +times, although there are no other indications apparent that such is +the case. + +SHEFFIELDS.--In the river bluff 2 miles above the Sheffield end of the +railway bridge is a crevice or joint which has been widened to 10 feet +at the outlet by water percolating from the top of the bluff. When +discovered, a rock wall was piled across it near the entrance. Behind +this human bones were found with "pieces of pottery and other things." +They were close to the surface. Subsequent explorations have revealed +nothing below them. It is plainly a burial cave for Indians. The river +now reaches at flood tide to within 10 feet of the floor. The earth +covering the bones may have washed over them, as there is some +evidence farther back in the crevice that surface material is still +carried in from the rear, in very small amounts, during rainy seasons. + +ROCK SHELTERS.--Several very large rock houses exist on the southern +slope of the hill or "mountain" lying a mile to 2 miles south of +Pride, 7 miles west of Tuscumbia. Water drips from the roofs, keeping +the floors wet all the year and collecting in pools to which stock +resorts when the little creeks or brooks in the ravines become dry. + +It is useless to search in this part of Alabama for caves presenting +indications that they may have been habitable, or the reverse, in ages +past. The native rock is a cherty or flinty limestone, crumbling +easily, and readily susceptible to changes from atmospheric +influences, and especially so to the action of water. New subterranean +channels are continually developing, with consequent changes in the +interior of any cavern near them. + + +JACKSON COUNTY + +ISBOLL CAVES.--It was reported that habitable caves with spacious +rooms occur on the Isboll farms, near Limrock. They have entrances +and front chambers of ample size to move about in, though not more +than 15 feet wide. There are broader expansions back some distance +beyond daylight. In both caves rocks up to 15 or 20 tons in weight +strew the floor, until only narrow passageways exist between them. In +addition, water flows from them in rainy seasons, being frequently 2 +feet or more in depth. + +BLOWING CAVE.--This takes its name from an outward current of cold air +which is so strong as to distinctly modify the temperature of the +atmosphere at least 100 yards from the entrance. The opening and the +front chamber are nearly 40 feet across, but the distance from the +roof to the muddy floor strewn with large rocks is not more than 5 +feet at any point. A creek flows across the cave 200 or 300 yards from +the mouth, and there is evidence in the way of drift and mud to prove +the statement by the owner that after very heavy rains the overflow +comes out the front of the cave in such amount as to fill it to the +ceiling, and with a velocity that will roll stones larger than a man +can lift. + +CULVER'S CAVE.--This is somewhere on the side of a mountain about 4 +miles from the station of Limrock. Owing to destruction of forests and +subsequent growth of brush, the guide was unable to locate it. He +described it as a room in which a man could walk about and reached by +going in through an opening like a sink hole, which, however, is only +about 5 feet deep. The locality, a rugged, barren hillside, near the +head of a cove, is not one in which it is probable a cave would be +used for any purpose. + +HARRISON'S CAVE.--This is 21/2 miles west of Limrock. It has a large, +high opening, an easy approach, and is quite accessible, being at the +foot of a mountain with level bottom land in front. A stream flows +directly across it some 30 feet from the entrance, emerging at the +foot of one wall and disappearing under the other. The earth bank on +each side of the stream is about 5 feet high, indicating at least that +depth of deposit on the rock floor; as the latter is not visible the +amount may be much greater. This earth is soft and wet. In rainy +weather water from the interior flows along the floor into the little +stream. Sometimes this can not dispose of the surplus, and the +overflow rises until it makes its exit through the mouth of the cave. +When this happens all the earth within is covered from 2 to 5 feet +deep. + +SALTPETER CAVE.--This lies 4 miles south of the railway, between +Limrock and Larkinsville. It is described as being dry, with a large, +high entrance, and "plenty of room inside right at the front." But it +was thoroughly worked during the war by saltpeter miners who took out +all the dirt they could easily reach, going back "200 or 300 yards." +For this reason it was not visited. + + +DEKALB COUNTY + +FORT PAYNE CAVE.--A mile south of Fort Payne is a cave in Lookout +Mountain, which, a "boom" company some years ago converted into a +summer resort. The detritus in front of the entrance was leveled off, +steps constructed to the top, and a heavy stone wall built across the +mouth, leaving an entrance a little less than 7 feet in width which +was closed by gates. Inside the barrier the floor, now made tolerably +level, extends about 30 feet toward the rear, to the natural rock +wall, and is 50 feet from side to side, with a roof from 6 to 15 feet +high. In the wall at the rear are two small openings through which +explorers can pass to large chambers farther within. To the right of +the front chamber is a branch cave which is high and wide at the +beginning but soon becomes impassable from the accumulated rocks and +earth rising to the roof. The left side of the front chamber is +continued in another branch going directly back into the mountain. The +roof and floor have an equal slope downward to a point some rods from +the beginning, the clear space between them being not more than 4 +feet. Beyond here the roof is high and there are some large +expansions. A creek flows from the rear of the cave to a point +estimated as 200 yards from the doorway, where it sinks into the +earth. The noise of its fall is distinct throughout the front part of +the cavern. There is considerable drip, and though dry stalactites and +stalagmites occur in some places, over most of the front chamber their +formation is still in progress. Outside of the doorway the solid rock +walls show on each side, nowhere less than 25 feet apart. At a depth +of 30 feet water flows from the rock and earth between these side +walls, but there is no sign of solid bottom, so the depth of the cave +is probably more than 30 feet below the present floor. + +Under existing conditions the cave would form an excellent shelter, +being accessible, roomy, and with an abundant supply of fresh water. +The drip from the ceiling could be avoided. But it does not follow +that such was the case in the remote past. It is apparent that at one +time the creek had its outlet through the mouth and down the gorge in +front, the right branch of the cave being then open. From some cause, +probably the formation of a sink hole above, water from the surface or +near the surface found a way through this branch, carrying mud and +rocks sufficient to fill the front chamber to its present floor, +diverting the flow of the stream, and finally filling the cave through +which it came. While the creek was flowing, occupation would be +impossible, or at least inconvenient. When the mud began to settle in, +the front portion would be shut off. This condition would hold until +the stream found its new outlet and the branch cave had become +entirely filled; and when these processes were completed the floor of +the cave would be practically at its present level. Under the +circumstances exploration would probably, almost certainly, be +fruitless. The company which owns the cave would also wish it restored +to something like its present state. + +ELLIS CAVE.--On the estate of Dr. Ellis, 19 miles north of Fort Payne +and 3 miles from Sulphur Springs, are two caves known locally as +Big-mouth and Little-mouth. The smaller is closed by a locked gate. +The larger has a rather imposing appearance from the outside. From a +ledge of rock, in place, in front of it, one looks down a steep slope +in which rocks up to 40 or 50 tons weight are imbedded. At a vertical +depth of 30 feet is a level space not more than 8 or 10 square yards +in area. From this a narrow crevice goes to the right. Within a few +yards it reaches a hole which can be descended only by means of a rope +or ladder. Persons have, however, gone several hundred yards in it. + +On the left of the level space and bounded on each side by solid rock +walls is a pit 10 feet deep, caused by inflowing storm waters which +have created this depression in seeking a small outlet, also toward +the left. The height from the bottom of this sink to the roof of the +cave is nearly 50 feet. + +Crossing this pit on a foot log, which rests on loose rock and earth +at its farther end, a crevice varying from 6 to 10 feet wide goes +inward for 50 feet. Earth covers the loose rock at the level of the +foot log almost at once, and this earth has a steep ascent toward the +rear. The crevice widens beyond the distance mentioned, though +irregularly, being in some places 25 feet from side to side. So far as +progress is concerned, the cave terminates 150 feet from the doorway +in a blank wall. It may be that if the earth were out of the way +further progress would be possible. + +Considerable digging has been done for saltpeter, but except near the +front it has been only superficial. + +The top of the earth at the extreme rear of the cave is almost or +quite as high as the roof at the front, which means that, if the +bottom should be level, the thickness of this accumulated deposit is +not less than 35 feet. As the dip is toward the rear and quite sharp, +about 10 or 12 degrees, the earth here may well be much thicker than +indicated. + +Excavation would be tedious and costly, as it would be impossible to +dispose of the dirt except by blasting a deep trench through the rock +in front to make room for wheeling it out. + +KILLIAN CAVES.--There are two of these, both on the west slope of +Lookout Mountain. One is near Brandon, 6 miles south of Fort Payne. +The entrance is a large sink hole on the side of the mountain, descent +into which is difficult owing to the steepness and large rocks. At the +bottom the water which flows in over the muddy floor from the slope +above--several acres in extent--rushes into a hole choked with loose +stones and disappears. + +The second cave is about 3 miles northeast of Collinsville. Debris +from the mountain has formed a wall across the entrance, which is +naturally wide and high and opening out on a little flat in front. +Some digging has been done for saltpeter at the front part of the +cave, reaching about 30 feet back from the inner foot of the +accumulation. In the pit thus formed water stands after every rain +until it soaks away. Where it ends the "face" is about 5 feet high. On +top, farther in, there is much travertine or stalagmite; in some +places it extends entirely across the floor. In other places the floor +is bare. There is constant drip, and in one room there is a little +gully, where surface water in wet weather, entering from a small +branch cave on one side, has cut an exit through the earth at the foot +of the wall on the other side. The hole in which it disappears extends +beyond the rays of a lamp, and a stone thrown in goes down a slope +several feet in length. Very little working is needed to reduce any of +the earth to soft, slippery mud, hence no excavation was possible. + + +MARSHALL COUNTY + +FEARIN CAVE.--This is in a bluff on the right bank of the Tennessee +River, 10 miles below Guntersville. It has three divisions. Shortly +after passing the spacious entrance a branch turns to the right. In a +few feet a wall is reached which can be scaled only with a ladder. +Climbing this, a large chamber is reached, totally dark, and the home +of innumerable bats whose "guano" covers the floor and fills the air +with a stifling odor. This branch comes to light again more than a +mile away on the side of the mountain. + +Returning to the lower chamber and going back about 100 feet from the +main entrance, a wall similar to the first is reached, above which is +another large cave. Bats never inhabit this, and the floor is of loose +dry earth. But no ray of daylight penetrates it, and as a great amount +of saltpeter was made here during the War of 1812 scarcely any of the +earth retains its original position. During the Civil War the floor of +the lower or main cave was also dug up for making saltpeter and much +of the leached earth piled in front of the cave. This acts as a dam +against encroachment of the river except in the highest floods. There +seems, however, to be a passage between the cavern and a spring under +the river bank, for water appears on the floor as soon as it reaches +the same height outside and the two surfaces maintain a constant level +until the freshet subsides. On account of these facts no excavations +were made. + +HARDIN'S CAVE.--Nine miles below Guntersville, on the right bank of +the Tennessee, is a ferry known as Honey Landing. It is at the lower +end of a steep bluff which forms the river front of a high hill or +mountain, as such elevations are called here. A few feet above +high-water mark a narrow ledge or shelf projects, which can be reached +only from a point on the side of the hill just above the ferry. About +100 yards from here the ledge reaches a cave, which has a high and +wide entrance, with ample space for several families to live on a +fairly level, well lighted floor. If the cave were dry, it would be an +ideal primitive home. But water continually seeps down the hill above +and falls over the roof at the entrance, while a gully through the +cave and several minor washes, as well as the mud spread over the +floor, show that a large amount of water flows through the cave in wet +seasons and covers all the floor except an area some 15 feet in +diameter. This is dry on top, but would be muddy at a depth of 3 or 4 +feet, the level of the bottom of the gully, so no exploration was +attempted. + +WELBURN'S CAVE.--Six miles northeast of Guntersville is a cave in +which many human bones have been found. It is only a burial place and +could never have been used as a dwelling. The entrance, barely large +enough to crawl into, is at one side of the bottom of a large sink +hole due to the falling in of a cave roof. It receives all the +rainfall of more than an acre and is nearly choked with mud and +driftwood. It may have been somewhat larger at one time, as there is a +tradition that a deer was chased through the cave, coming out at +Bailey's Cave, a mile away. Within a few rods the water sinks into the +earth, and the floor of the cave, rising beyond this point, is dry. It +was on this dry earth, not in it, that the skeletons were found. The +floor is uneven, at some places permitting a man to stand, and at +others rising to within 3 feet of the roof. Explorations can not be +made, as there is no method of disposing of the removed earth. + +BAILEY'S CAVE.--This cave is 7 miles northeast of Guntersville. The +entrance is high and wide and there is a large, well-lighted area +within; but the cave is flooded every time Town Creek gets out of its +banks. Bailey's Cave is the other end of Welburn's Cave, as persons +have gone through the hill from one to the other. + +BARNARD CAVE.--This cave, which is also called Alford's and is still +more commonly known as Saltpeter Cave, is on the left bank of the +Tennessee 10 miles below Guntersville and opposite the Fearin +property. The entrance is at the foot of a bluff overlooking a strip +of bottom land a fourth of a mile wide, but the opening is above any +flood that has occurred since the country was settled. At the foot of +the slope is a bayou filled with Tupelo gums. Between this and the +river the ground can be cultivated. + +The cave is so straight and the walls so smooth as to look like an +artificial tunnel. The entrance is in plain view from a point 380 +feet back, and the change of direction, even at that distance, is very +slight. The saltpeter miners started at the entrance and removed all +the earth lying from 3 to 6 feet higher than the present floor, which +is nearly level. They carried their work along the surface of a +stratum of gravel, sand, and clay, which is so compact as to be +difficult to remove with a pick, and seems to belong to the stream +which carved out the cavern. The "face" where they quit work is 5 feet +high, and the earth is quite dry, breaking down in angular fragments +and separating from the walls so freely as to leave no residue on +them. Its original depth at any point, however, may be very easily +ascertained by noting the different tints or shading of the wall rock, +the lower part, which was protected by earth, being distinctly lighter +in color than that above, which was exposed to atmospheric weathering +and, for a time, to the smoky torches and candles of the workmen. + +The distinct lamination of the saltpeter earth, as shown in the +"face," proves it to have been laid down slowly and intermittently in +still water. It could not be determined whether this was due to the +river in flood periods, or to a gentle stream from the interior whose +volume varied in accordance with weather conditions. There is also a +small channel along the top of the earth, filled with gravel and sand, +as if the overflow of a stream far back in the mountain had been +diverted in this direction after the laminated deposits had become dry +and settled. + +The walls are 10 feet apart near the entrance, but are not more than 8 +feet elsewhere and in some places the width narrows to less than 3 +feet. They also have an inward slope at the bottom, so the cave is +either shallow or else so narrow at no great depth as to be +uninhabitable. This fact, and the character of the material deposited +by the ancient drainage stream, make it hopeless to expect result from +exploration. + +MCDERMENT'S CAVES.--There are two caves 100 yards apart, in Brown's +Valley, 11 miles southwest from Guntersville. The larger has a descent +of 21 feet from the front to the general level of the first floor. All +this part is well lighted. The drainage from several acres of the +mountain side above pours over the roof at the entrance and runs down +the inner slope. It has worn a gully, and the first level it reaches +is quite muddy. Leaves and trash 3 or 4 inches deep are piled on and +against the loose stones toward the side where the water seeks an +outlet. It has worn a crooked channel along this side of the chamber, +and falls into a hole which at a depth of 10 or 11 feet below the +floor makes a turn and passes from sight. So it is certain that soft +wet clay extends more than 30 feet below the level of the entrance. +The drier deposits of this room have been extensively worked for +saltpeter, and a much greater quantity of earth would have been +removed but for the fact that masses of stalagmite, too thick to break +off with a sledge hammer, and scores of columns, some of them 6 or 8 +feet in diameter and many tons in weight, cover a considerable part of +it. The first room is succeeded by several others, all of which are +dry and of large size, but in total darkness, and the floors in all +have been more or less disturbed in the search for niter. The general +direction of the bottom is downward. The last floor is probably 50 or +60 feet lower than the entrance, and is reached by a slope on which it +is difficult to retain a footing. In nearly every part the earth is +covered by stalagmite, much of it so heavy that the miners could not +remove it, but were compelled to dig under it as far as they could +reach; and in no place is a rock floor to be seen. + +The thickness of stalagmite on the floor, and the great size of the +columns, is proof of their antiquity, while the depth of earth beneath +must have been thousands of years in accumulating before the deposits +began to cover them. + +Excavations here, while quite desirable, would be very expensive. Much +stalagmite would have to be blasted; upward of a thousand yards of +earth moved, and all of it taken out of the cave, because there is no +room for it inside. As a man can not push a wheelbarrow up such an +incline, a trench must be cut through to the exterior slope; and as +solid rock lies not more than 5 feet below the surface at any point, +blasting would be necessary the rest of the way. The task is equal to +opening a stone quarry. + +The second cave on McDerment's place has a good opening. A trench 4 +feet wide and 6 feet deep where the rock is thickest has been blasted +out to make a level approach to the entrance. Masses of stalagmite on +each side, sloping like solid rock from the walls, leave barely room +for a man to walk for the first 30 feet. Here the walls recede +somewhat, and a pit nearly 15 feet deep yawns before the explorer. +After continuing for some distance with this depth, there is another +drop of 10 feet which holds until the end of the cave is reached. This +entire depression is due to the removal of earth for making saltpeter. +It is evident that a vast amount of material has been carried out. + +As in the first cave, excavation would be very difficult and +expensive. All rock and earth would have to be carried up a steep +grade, or a deep cut made to wheel it out. As the light is very dim at +the first widening of the walls, it is not probable the space farther +back would be occupied unless as a refuge. + +Both caves were eroded by water running _into_ the hill, and the end +of each is abrupt, the roof being higher and the walls farther apart +than at any point nearer the entrance. The original outlets are now +filled with earth, and apparently have been so for ages. + +FORT DEPOSIT CAVE.--Six miles below Guntersville the highway to +Huntsville crosses the Tennessee River at Fort Deposit Ferry and +passes out through a narrow valley between two bluffs. Less than 100 +yards above the landing, on the north, or right, bank, is a large cave +from which the spot takes its name; there being a tradition that it +was used by General Jackson as a storage room for supplies during the +Creek Indian war. On either side the bluff is vertical to the water's +edge, making the cave now inaccessible except by boat. In front of the +entrance the rock is worn in ledges which can be easily ascended. + +The opening or mouth of the cave is oval in form, about 18 feet high +and 15 feet wide. The sides are uneven, there being a projecting shelf +on each side near the floor. At 40 feet from the opening these +disappear, owing to the narrowing of the cavern. There is a gradual +ascent of the floor toward the rear, the rise being about 2 feet in +the first 60 and more rapid from that point onward. A thin deposit of +dried mud on each side, where it escapes the feet of visitors, shows +that the river enters the cave at times, but not to a depth that +carries it back more than 25 feet. The present ferryman says the flood +of 1867 is the only one which has reached so far within that period. + +After clearing away the earth, roots, and rocks at the front, a +straight vertical face at a distance of 18 feet from the entrance +measured 91/2 feet at top and 5 feet at the bottom between the solid +rock wall on each side, and was 4 feet 4 inches high. The floor was +not of solid rock entirely across, there being a crevice less than 4 +feet wide which was not cleaned out, because no one could have lived +in it. About the middle of this bank (vertically) streaks of red +earth, burned elsewhere, extended 31/2 feet out from the right wall; +there was very little ashes and no charcoal mixed with it. Above this +red the earth was dark like garden soil and contained a few shells and +fragments of pottery, with a little charcoal and ashes; it had all +been disturbed and apparently resulted from scraping the debris away +from camp fires. Below this, the line of demarcation being very +distinct, the earth was yellow and sandy, like river bottom land, and +contained no foreign matter except roots of trees growing outside. +Figure 23 shows a section on this line; the crevice is omitted from +this and the subsequent illustrations. + +At 20 feet in, a foot below the top of the dark earth, was some +charred corn. The yellow earth became irregular, thinner, and higher +against the side walls than at the center. (See fig. 24.) + +At 22 feet the yellow earth had nearly run out, there being only a +small amount against either wall, while the darker earth reached down +into the crevice that opened in the narrow strip of rock floor. In +the lower portion were mingled a few shells, pebbles, and specks of +charcoal, as if it had been thrown there. Across the upper portion of +the deposit extended fire beds, burned earth, ashes, shells, broken +pottery, and occasionally a fragment of bone. (See fig. 25.) + + [Illustration: FIG. 23.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 18 + feet.] + +At 24 feet it was found that what had been taken for a solid floor in +the last section represented was only a large flat rock which had +fallen into the crevice and wedged tightly. When this was passed the +yellow earth reappeared, at a slightly lower level. + + [Illustration: FIG. 24.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 20 + feet.] + + [Illustration: FIG. 25.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 22 + feet.] + +At 26 feet the yellow earth became mixed with red. It was excavated to +a depth of 5 feet in the endeavor to discover the reason for this. As +there was not the slightest trace of ashes or charcoal, the red +admixture must be a natural result of staining by iron in some form +and not due to heat. Above the yellow was the usual stratum of dark +earth, containing culinary debris. In the central portion of this was +a mass, sufficient to fill a wheelbarrow, of angular, unburnt +fragments of limestone from 3 to 15 pounds in weight. On the surface +of the dark earth were some ten or twelve fire beds, reaching from +wall to wall, the edges overlapping and interlacing in so confusing a +manner that the exact number could not be made out. (See fig. 26.) At +this stage it appeared that the crevice, or at least its upper part, +had been filled by river floods and a slight ridge of sand thrown +across the mouth of the cave. The Indians, it seems, occupied both +this ridge and the lower area behind it, throwing debris to the rear +to fill up the depression instead of carrying it all to the outside. +It is equally possible, however, that this waste was brought from +points farther back and thrown here to fill and level the floor. These +heavy fire beds came to an end at about 28 feet on the right and 29 +feet on the left. A section at 28 feet is given in figure 27. At their +inner margin, among the ordinary refuse characteristic of such +deposits, were many fragments of human bones, including ulnas of two +individuals, one much larger than the other. They plainly indicated +cannibalism, as they were broken when thrown here. Besides the ulnas, +there are pieces of ribs, scapula, tibia, and feet. + + [Illustration: FIG. 26.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 26 + feet.] + +At 29 feet the underlying yellow earth became comparatively level +across its upper surface, again closely resembling a river deposit. +The darker earth above it contained a greater amount than heretofore +of ashes, bones in small pieces, potsherds, mussel, snail, and +periwinkle shells, and the like. More charred corn was found along +here. + + [Illustration: FIG. 27.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 28 + feet.] + +At 30 feet the yellow earth began to rise, and at 32 feet it was very +little more than 3 feet lower than the top of the highest ashes. A +section at this point is shown in figure 28. At 35 feet the strata +became quite regular and uniform from wall to wall. The dark earth, +next above the yellow, measured 3 feet in thickness at the center, and +while showing by its admixture of ashes, etc., that it had been thrown +here, had evidently formed the floor for a considerable time. The +upper foot was burned red or dark from long-continued fires, the ashes +above it being from 6 to 8 inches thick, and forming the present floor +of the cave at this place. The dark earth contained much less of +refuse than nearer the entrance; such shells and ashes as appeared +were promiscuously distributed and not in little piles or masses as +before. A section at 351/2 feet appears in figure 29. It may be remarked +here that this is the only sketch in which the upper line coincides +with the surface of the deposits. In the others a thin covering, less +than 6 inches at any point, of disintegrated material from walls and +roof covers the ashes left by aboriginal fires. This is omitted from +the drawings. + + [Illustration: FIG. 28.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 30 + feet.] + +At 38 feet the yellow earth had risen until it was within 3 feet of +the top of the entire overlying deposit. The latter contained little +of the dark earth, being mostly composed of ashes and burned earth, +some of which resulted from fires made on the spot, but the greater +part being thrown from other points. The rise of the yellow earth, +consequently, is more rapid than the rise of the material covering it. + + [Illustration: FIG. 29.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 351/2 + feet.] + +At 40 feet there was a dip in the yellow earth, extending for 4 or 5 +feet and descending 2 feet at the deepest point. This may be due to +drainage at a lower level. + +At 471/2 feet a pocket of the dark earth extended a few inches into the +underlying yellow earth. A hole seems to have been dug into the +latter. There was no more of foreign material in this hole than +elsewhere in the dark earth above and around it. It is shown in figure +30. + + [Illustration: FIG. 30.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 471/2 + feet.] + +The amount of shells, pottery, etc., had been decreasing for several +feet before this point was reached; indeed, from 40 feet onward there +was very little of it--enough, however, to show that all the dark +earth had been disturbed and thoroughly mixed. The fire beds, too, +while holding their depth of about a foot, contained more earth +between the successive layers of ashes, showing as great age, +probably, as those nearer the entrance, but less continuous +occupation. This condition prevailed to about 60 feet from the +entrance, at which point the yellow earth, now mixed with sand and +gravel, was only 3 feet below the surface of the floor. The appearance +of this line is sketched in figure 31. + + [Illustration: FIG. 31.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 60 + feet.] + +At 62 feet there was a dip in the yellow earth, extending to 67 feet +and 2 feet deep at its lowest point; it then rose to the usual level. + +At 70 feet ashes appeared in greater quantities; at 73 feet the dark +earth was only a foot thick, the ashes and burned earth being 2 feet +thick and apparently all dumped, as there was no definite arrangement +of the various parts. (See fig. 32.) A small perforated disk and a +double-pointed bone needle were found here. + +The fire beds now began to thin out rapidly, the dark earth also +diminishing in quantity, until at 80 feet, from which point the +entrance was no longer visible owing to curvature of the walls, there +was only 5 or 6 inches of them in all, resting directly on the yellow +earth, which contained much more clay than farther toward the front. +The walls began to diverge here, forming a room whose greatest width +was 11 feet 6 inches at 95 feet. At 100 feet a reverse curve brought +the cavern on a course parallel to that which it had held up to 60 +feet. + + [Illustration: FIG. 32.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 70 + feet.] + +At 90 feet there was evidence of fire at one side, the ashes and +burned earth being 5 inches thick at the wall, and thinning out to a +feather edge within 4 feet. This was the last fireplace discovered +which may not with certainty be attributed to white men. The yellow +earth, presenting no evidence of having been disturbed since +originally deposited, reached from the superficial layer of loose dry +earth to the bottom of the trench, a depth of 4 feet 8 inches. Below +this point the walls were less than 4 feet apart, and the space filled +with gravel, as shown in figure 33. This gravel had exactly the +appearance of that in gullies on the hills outside, and plainly dates +back to the period at which the cave was formed. The stream which +aided in the erosion, or which flowed through from some sink hole or +other outside opening, carried this gravel into the crevice. +Consequently, even if the space between the walls had been ample for +dwelling purposes, an attempt to live here when the gravel was being +carried in would result in the intending settler having his effects +washed out into the river. + + [Illustration: FIG. 33.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 90 + feet.] + +At 93 feet the side walls confining the yellow clay narrowed to a +little less than 5 feet apart. The upper portion of the one to the +left has been eroded into a recess or cavity, forming the chamber +above mentioned. The earth on the rock floor in this recess is +nowhere more than a foot deep. A section is presented in figure 34. + +At 100 feet the room came to an end. The space between the walls was +71/2 feet at the floor level and 4 feet at a depth of 4 feet. At 105 +feet the nearly vertical walls were only 5 feet apart on the floor; at +112 feet the space increased to 7 feet. A section showed about a foot +of loose earth mixed with ashes; 3 feet of yellow clayey earth, rather +compact; then gravel and sand. The latter was dug into for a foot, at +which level the walls were converging and it was useless to go any +deeper. Enough was done, however, to verify the supposition that this +stratum was due to the action of running water seeking its outlet at +the mouth of the cave. + +At 103 feet, at the bottom of the yellow clay and on top of the +gravel, was a chalcedony pebble about 21/2 inches in diameter. The +material is foreign to this locality. It had plainly been used as a +hammer stone, and is the only object of human origin found anywhere +below the dark earth. There was not the slightest evidence of any +disturbance of the clay in which it rested. + + [Illustration: FIG. 34.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 93 + feet.] + +At 120 feet the side walls were only 5 feet apart. At 125 feet they +again diverged slightly, and a recess on the left forms a chamber 12 +feet across. At 150 feet they had drawn in to 8 feet at the widest +interval. A section showed loose dry earth, some of it cemented by +drip from the roof until about as hard as lump chalk; then compact +clayey earth, also with travertine in small lumps; below this the +gravel and sand. The latter, at this point, seems to have been +deposited in the last stages of the formation of the cave. +Occasionally, along here, a small patch appeared that seemed to be +ashes; but none of it was more than 6 inches below the top of the +ground, and the substance may not have been ashes at all, but the fine +white limestone dust that wears off from the stone. There was nothing +in the trench, at any depth, after the chalcedony pebble, that could +possibly be due to human intervention, except these small patches of +ashes, if ashes they are. + +At 165 feet from the entrance the cave made its fourth turn and +expanded into a chamber about 15 feet wide. Along the sides of this +and in the various crevices opening from it were great quantities of +clean ashes, plainly enough thrown there from fires made in the +central part. The gravel came to within 3 to 5 feet of the top, being +quite irregular. On the gravel was dry clay, seamed and fissured in +all directions so that it fell out under the pick in clods like +angular pebbles from an inch to 3 or 4 inches across. This was clearly +the result of muddy water settling in a hole and thoroughly +evaporating. There was also some travertine in small lumps here and +there through the clay, and above it was a mass fully 2 feet thick at +one side of the trench but running out before it reached the other +side. It was porous, almost spongy, and seemed to be the lime dust +from the roof and sides cemented by dripping water. Above all this, so +far as the trench extended toward the sides of the cave, was an inch +to 4 inches of loose, dry, dark earth, which on the left dipped down +to the clay, thus replacing the travertine. + + [Illustration: FIG. 35.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 175 + feet.] + + [Illustration: FIG. 36.--Cross section of Fort Deposit Cave at 180 + feet.] + +At 175 feet the gravel had leveled down and was more or less mixed +with clay and sand. Above this was another "mudhole deposit" of clay +which had thoroughly dried out and become checked and cracked in all +directions. On the right this was covered with travertine slightly +mixed with earth and clay; on the left, above it and also at one place +within it, was a coarse gritty earth fallen from the roof but not +converted into a compact travertine. The section appears in figure 35. +At 180 feet the trench was carried to a depth of 6 feet. This exposed +a fine clay and sand, or silt, like that deposited in the eddies of +streams. Above this was another deposit of "mudhole" material which +had thoroughly dried out, checked and cracked in all directions so +that it formed angular masses of various sizes, and had then become +wet again so that it was now soft and sticky. To the left of this, on +the silt also, was a small amount of the gravel. It had the appearance +common to a bank of such material on the side of a little stream which +has undermined and carried away part of it. Clearly, these three +formations were of an age that witnessed the erosion of the cave. Next +above them was a stratum of loose dark earth similar to that noticed +in the front part of the cavern; but here were found no traces +whatever of man's presence. Into the right side of this stratum +projected the wedge-like edge of a mass of travertine, which was not +traced to a termination. Over all lay a deposit 3 or 4 inches thick of +dark, nearly black earth, mixed with ashes. This is quite modern. The +section appears in figure 36. + +During the Civil War the cave was continuously resorted to by +deserters, refugees, moonshiners, fugitives, and "food for powder, +dodging the conscript." All these sought shelter in this chamber and +behind it, in order that their fires might not be visible from the +river. The piles of ashes in the crevices and corners were thrown +there by these hiders-out, to get them out of the way. Similar but +smaller piles of ashes are to be seen all along as far as the spring, +200 yards from the entrance. + +The presence of pottery of a type common to this region in fields and +shell heaps, and of maize, denotes that all the fire beds, etc., are +the results of habitation by the modern Indian. Where these ceased +nothing else was found. In or below the yellow earth, clay, or gravel, +nothing can be found; for until these were laid down and the stream of +the cave had sought another outlet, there was no dry place in which to +live. + +It may be worth recording that a dead mulberry tree stood about 20 +feet in front of the entrance to the cave. Under it was a narrow +crevice filled with earth, but all around it was bare rock. A root, +larger than the tree, grew into the cave and followed along one side +wall as if fastened there for a distance of some 60 feet. Here the +earth floor of the cave came high enough to cover it. This root was +exposed for 160 feet in the trench, or 180 feet from the tree; at this +point it was 3 inches in diameter and turned aside into a crevice. As +the root could not have grown in the open air, it furnished proof that +much deposited material has been carried out of the front portion of +the cavern and away from the ledge since this tree was a sprout. + + + + +III. EXPLORATIONS ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER BLUFFS IN KANSAS AND +NEBRASKA + + +VICINITY OF WHITE CLOUD, KANSAS + + +About 4 miles southeast of White Cloud, Kansas, is the "Taylor Mound," +from which Mark E. Zimmerman and William Park took 56 skeletons, or +portions of skeletons, in a space not more than 6 by 20 feet. This was +clearly an intrusive communal burial of skeletons carried from some +other point and interred in the mound which owed its origin to persons +who had piled it up at some previous time. The bones, which were not +arranged in any order, were 30 inches beneath the present surface of +the mound, but this does not mean they were no deeper originally, as +the mound has been plowed for many years and is in a situation where +it will easily wear down when cultivated. + +A few feet away, at a depth of 7 feet, other bones, or fragments of +bones, were found in a mass of burned clay. A cremation had taken +place at some point away from the mound, and the resultant burned +earth, with so much of the bone matter as was not destroyed by the +fire, was carried here and buried. The depth in this instance is not +significant; the earth is loose and very easily dug; besides, the +grave pit was near the margin of the mound and earth had washed down +over it from above. + +Some stones, carried from neighboring ravines, have been exposed by +the wear due to erosion from natural causes and from cultivation. The +main portion of the structure is still intact, and it is probable that +no deposits belonging to it at the time of its construction have been +unearthed. A systematic exploration, showing the original construction +as well as the alterations resulting from later burials, is much to be +desired. + +While this is the largest mound in the vicinity, and is claimed to be +the largest mound in Kansas, it is not different except in size from +many others within a few miles. All of them are made of the same earth +as that which lies around them--a light, sandy loess which is easily +removed with a shovel, requiring no picking or other loosening. In +fact, it is almost as easy to dig as loose sand would be. Sometimes +there are flat limestones in or around the graves; similar slabs are +found not far away in the ravines. + +Not far from this mound is a large lodge site, one of the so-called +"buffalo wallows" as they are commonly known. These are the ruins of +aboriginal houses. The general construction is the same, the only +practical difference being that some are square in outline, others +round. This difference is not always apparent prior to the excavation. +In the making, a pit was dug, square or round as desired, and the +earth thrown out on every side. Posts were then set around the margin +of the excavation, and the house built in the same manner as those +with which we are familiar from accounts of early travelers. Many of +them have been examined by Zimmerman and Park, who found masses of +hard-burned earth in which are cavities and depressions due to the +burning of straw, grass, twigs, and poles, used in the construction of +the houses. This results from the destruction of the houses by fire. +Sometimes the floor has a layer of this burned material which is +evidently due to the falling in of the roof. Most of these are on the +hilltops, but some of them are on narrow ridges leading from the high +land to the creek or river bottoms. In the latter event there is +always a village site on the low ground bordering the stream. The +relics gathered up on these village sites are in no wise different +from those found when the lodge sites are excavated; and also are of +the same character as those picked up on what are no doubt modern +village sites in the vicinity. This fact militates against the idea +that the lodge sites are extremely ancient. + + +IOWA POINT + +On a low hill, cut off on every side by steep ravines, is a small +mound containing a cist grave. The bottom of this, which was dug +slightly below the natural surface, was covered with a pavement of +limestone slabs. The grave was roughly oval or triangular in outline, +measuring about 7 by 9 feet. Around it was a wall of similar stones, +set in contact and sloping outward at an angle of about 40 degrees +from the vertical. There was nothing whatever in this grave. + +At the edge of the mound was a box grave 51/2 by 21/2 by 21/2 feet, the +longer axis on a radial line. It was made of small flat stones built +up like a wall, the only grave of which I could learn that had any +resemblance to the vault graves farther down the Missouri. In the +grave were two skulls and some other bones, all bunched in the +northern end. + + +NEAR THE MOUTH OF THE NEMAHA RIVER + +Lewis and Clark, in their journal, mention that when camped near the +mouth of the Nemaha, one or both of them went to an Indian village +about 2 miles up the stream. He, or they, climbed a low ridge near the +river and stood on a mound which commanded a fine view of the +surrounding country. There is a dispute as to the site of this mound; +but the journal plainly says it was on the lower (east) side of a +little creek which comes in here. Two miles farther up is a larger +mound on higher ground which is generally supposed to be the one meant +by the explorer; but this is on the other side of the creek and at +some distance from the Pawnee village which was located near the mouth +of the creek, on the lower side. The ground where this village stood +is covered over a space of several acres with the ordinary debris of +an Indian settlement; and it is significant that all the relics found +are so similar to those which are called "ancient" when found in the +lodge sites, that no one could determine from inspection which kind +came from which place. Unless it may exist in the markings in the +pottery, no distinction can be made between these specimens and +similar ones from other localities. + +The Pawnees lived here until 1837, when the Iowas and Otoes made a +sortie upon the unsuspecting inhabitants and killed all of them they +could overcome. Two women of the Iowa tribe who were living on the +reservation in 1914 remember seeing dead bodies lying around wherever +the invaders could find and kill a resident. + +A short distance below the explorers carved their names on a rock +which projected into the stream. Accounts as to this spot differ; it +is generally stated that in making a road around here, the rock +containing the names was blasted away; but a man in the neighborhood +who claims to know the exact spot says the blasting did not extend +quite so far and that the names are covered by a mass of earth and +rock which slid from the bluff many years ago. If this be true, a +thrill awaits the man who finds the names some centuries from now, +when the river has washed away all this accumulated material. + + * * * + + +VICINITY OF TROY, KANSAS + +Near the mouth of Wolf River is a village site on which Dr. R.S. +Dinsmore, of Troy, has counted 125 tipi sites. Relics are very +abundant here, especially the small chert "thumb-scrapers," which +outnumber all other specimens. + + +MOUTH OF MOSQUITO CREEK + +Four miles east of Troy, on a ridge so steep that its top is +inaccessible from either side, and so narrow that a wagon would make a +track on each slope, is a little mound worn down until its true nature +would not be suspected. Dr. Dinsmore was on this ridge one day and +noticed a flat limestone rock. Knowing that it had no place in the +loess, he began digging to ascertain the reason for it being there. At +a depth of a few inches he found bones, and soon unearthed a number of +skulls, with only his hands or a stick. Coming back later with tools, +he found, in all, 56 skulls. Afterwards he found others, and persons +in the neighborhood have exhumed many more. The deposit represents a +communal burial, from a village which probably stood on the level +creek bottom not far away. A few skeletons showed an attempt at +orderly arrangement. These were probably of individuals who had not +been dead long at the time of the general burial. Most of the bones, +however, skulls and others, were piled in the smallest possible area, +as if gathered up in sacks or baskets from previous burials and +carried here for reinterment. The soil is so loose as to be easily dug +with the hands, like sand; but at the same time so fine and close +packed as to shed water almost like a roof. Owing to the steep slope +at every point, except toward the summit of the ridge, there must be +some erosion, and consequently the age of the burials can not be +great. Yet, the same conditions prevail in other places where a great +antiquity is claimed for the remains. Frost necessarily disintegrates +the soil to some extent; the wind or rain carries away the loosened +portions; and this process is continuous. The shape of the mound shows +that when the burials were made the ridge was essentially identical in +form with its present aspect. The bones also are comparatively fresh +in appearance, and it may be considered certain that they can not date +back many generations. + +On the top of a hill rising from the opposite side of Mosquito Creek +Dr. Dinsmore found a low mound, which, like that just described, would +not have been suspected as such but for a stone projecting from the +surface. Under this stone, with 8 inches of earth intervening, was a +skull so completely mineralized that it appears to be carved from a +block of limestone. No other portions of the body to which it belonged +remained, though traces in the surrounding earth showed that at least +the larger bones and perhaps the entire skeleton had been deposited. +Bones in other parts of the mound were in their natural condition; +that is, they were not altered from their ordinary appearance, +although only in fragments. It is remarkable that this entire cranium +should thus change while all the other bones, even the jaw, had +disappeared. The description of this find is from Dr. Dinsmore, who +has the skull in his office. Possibly he may be in error in stating +that traces were found of other bones belonging with it. These may +have belonged to another individual. The soil is ordinary sandy loess, +containing lime but not in such quantity as to account for this +alteration. Perhaps the skull may be from an older burial somewhere, +the petrifaction having taken place before it was buried here. + + * * * + + +RULO, NEBRASKA + +Particular attention was paid to conditions a mile north of Rulo, +where it is reported that human skeletons were found in the Kansan +drift. It was not the intention of the discoverer to have it +understood that these remains were in undisturbed drift, but such is +the impression that has gained credence. + +At the settlement of the country by whites the road constructed across +a ravine here, on the section line nearest the river about +three-eighths of a mile away, followed the natural contour and the +crossing was made without difficulty. Since then a deep washout has +worked its way to some distance above this point, making a long bridge +necessary. From the head of the washout to the Missouri River the +banks are vertical, or nearly so, on each side of the little stream. +It was in the bank on the south side that the bones were found. It is +stated they were 7 feet under the surface; if so there must have been +a mound above them, for the lowest excavation does not reach over 5 +feet below the present level of the ground, and at that extends +slightly below the bottom of the grave. + +Within 40 years the Missouri River, which is now more than a mile away +toward the Missouri shore, flowed at the foot of a slight bluff +terminating the slope from the high land toward the west; there was +formerly a steamboat landing on the upper side of the ravine. On the +lower side is a triangular area of about an acre, bounded by the +bluff, the river bank, and the ravine. This was an excellent location +for an Indian village or camp. A narrow level strip extends from the +mouth of the ravine to a point near the bridge, some distance above +where the remains were found. It is quite clear that the skeletons +were the remains of individuals who had died at the camp on the +river's bank and had been carried here for burial. This may have +occurred within the last hundred years or in fact at any time while +the Indians were still living in this vicinity. + +The flood level of the Missouri is not more than 15 feet lower than +the level space along the sides of the ravine. The little intermittent +stream has cut down this depth through a deposit which is composed of +river sediment, wash from the hills on each side, and material carried +from higher levels by the brook itself in rainy seasons. At only one +point is there a real glacial deposit, and this does not extend for +more than 50 feet horizontally, and does not reach to the top of the +bank. It is at some distance from the graves, and may be due to a lobe +of the ice or to an iceberg. However formed or deposited here it has +no relation whatever to the skeletons. In a sense, the material in +which they were buried is "Kansan drift"; but it is drift which has +been redistributed and has come into its present position within a few +centuries at the most. + + * * * + + +NEAR HOWE, NEBRASKA + +Mr. Sam P. Hughes, who lives near Howe, has done considerable +excavating in that vicinity. He is an intelligent man and an ardent +student, but his ideas in regard to the age of his discoveries need +much revision downward. His chief work has been done north of Howe at +a place 9 miles from the nearest point on the Missouri River. Here is +a small level area at the end of a ridge sloping away in every +direction except at the narrow isthmus connecting it with the fields +beyond, which are at a level only slightly higher. Thus there is no +chance for any accumulation from the adjacent surface. On this ridge +are a few lodge sites which Hughes has excavated. In every respect +they are similar to lodge sites reported from other localities in this +region. The walls, the depression, the floor, the fireplace, are all +the same. The depressions are filled with earth to a depth of 18 to 22 +inches above the level of the old floor; and Hughes reports that +wherever he has dug on this ridge he has found flint chips, charcoal, +fragments of pottery, and scraps of bone to about the same depth. Next +below the soil is the Kansan glacial drift; but the assertion that +objects found at this depth are of the same age as the drift is not +necessarily or even presumably correct. + + * * * + + +PERU, NEBRASKA + +On various hills in the vicinity of Peru are lodge sites, some of them +circular, some rectangular, some with straight sides and rounded +corners. Most of them have been dug in at random; in every case after +a certain depth of accumulated earth and trash is passed through, +there is a layer of clay which formed the roof, and beneath this the +hard earth floor with fireplace usually in the center but sometimes a +little toward one side. + + * * * + + +PAPILLION, NEBRASKA + +At the time of my visit, Dr. Frederick H. Sterns, of the Peabody +Museum, was working near here. He described himself as "the man who is +extremely anxious to find a glacial or other very ancient man, but so +far has not succeeded in getting track of him." Dr. Sterns did not +claim a period antedating the Indian for anything he had then +unearthed--meaning the known Indian tribes. + + * * * + + +VICINITY OF OMAHA, NEBRASKA + +To the southward of Omaha are many lodge sites of varying depths and +diameters. The deepest one reported had a depth of 9 feet below the +surrounding surface, and at the bottom of this was a pit (or "cache," +as they are locally known) with an additional depth of 4 feet, or 13 +feet of excavation in all. This was near the so-called "cannibal +house," where 14 human frontal bones were found under conditions which +indicate they had belonged to individuals who were eaten by other +inmates of the lodge. + +A short distance from these sites, across a ravine, is a bare, narrow +ridge, very steep on each side, so that erosion would readily act. On +the sloping summit of this are three small mounds which cover communal +burials. From one of these, the one farthest from the summit of the +hill, more than 80 skulls were taken and boys in the neighborhood have +since taken many more. They are all of the ordinary Indian type, and +can not have been buried more than a few generations ago; but this +fact has not prevented an age of "twenty thousand years" being +assigned to them. There is absolutely no reason for fixing this or any +other date. There is nothing whatever to indicate the age, but 200 +years would probably not be far from the mark, because erosion has +been slight since the mounds were piled up. + + +LONG'S HILL + +This ridge has attained some notoriety as the site of Gilder's +discovery of the "Nebraska Man." The claim is made that human bones +were found at a depth of 14 feet in absolutely undisturbed loess. The +hill is a narrow ridge, facing the river on one side and a deep ravine +on the other. It is somewhat winding in its course and is connected +with the more level land in the rear at about half a mile from its +end. A wagon road up the point, from the river bottom to the hilltop, +shows undisturbed loess the entire distance. There is no possibility +of accumulation by wash or in any other manner except decaying +vegetation on any part of this ridge. + +Along the crest are several small mounds. Some of these, as shown by +excavation, cover graves, and the presumption is that all of them mark +burial places. + +It is needless to make any resume of Gilder's report, as it is so well +known, further than to say that he found burials and fragmentary human +bones at various levels from 21/2 to 14 feet. At 41/2 feet were burned +bones lying upon burned earth and mingled with it. This layer, burned +hard as a brick, served to prevent water from penetrating the earth +immediately below; and it is in this earth that the deepest remains +were found. + +There are three ways, and only three, in which they could get there: + +1. They were washed in when the loess was deposited, as claimed by the +discoverers and by some of the Nebraska geologists. + +In support of this view is the assertion that the bones were +water-worn. On this point I can not venture any opinion, as I have not +seen them. But I have found bones in mounds and in other situations +where such wear was impossible and yet having the smoothed and rounded +appearance characteristic of such action by water or the elements. + +In support of this theory, too, is the positive statement of Nebraska +geologists who have had ample opportunity to become familiar with +loess in all its phases; and they claim the deposit is the original +and has not been disturbed. + +It is necessary for these advocates, however, to tell where such +fragments of bones could have come from and how they could have been +washed to the place where found, when all these bluffs were covered +with water, as they had to be at that time. + +2. The bones could have been carried by rodents into their burrows or +runways, as Hrdlicka suggests. In this case the material in contact +with the bones would have to be somewhat different in appearance and +consistency from that which lay a few inches, or perhaps only an inch, +away. The Nebraska men say this was not the case. + +3. There may have been an excavation or pit similar to that in which +the Hurons buried their dead. But as no such burial pits have been +discovered in this part of the country, this supposition must be +excluded. + +A corollary to the last is that a deep but small pit similar to the +so-called "caches" in the lodge sites may have been dug here and the +bones thrown in. There is no indication whatever of a lodge site or +any other form of habitation at this point, but I have found such pits +in the vicinity of Indian houses, though not just on their site. The +deepest one I have ever found was 101/2 feet and less than 6 feet in +diameter. There would be no difficulty in digging into this loose +material as far as an excavator cared to go, until he had reached a +depth at which he could no longer get the loosened earth to the +surface of the ground. As mentioned above, a pit south of Omaha had a +depth of 13 feet, or only 1 foot less than is claimed for this--or +rather for the greatest depth at which it is claimed fragments of bone +were found. + +The objection made to this theory is that the earth thrown out of the +hole was unmixed, presenting throughout the appearance and consistency +of loess as it occurs where exposed in ravines or on slopes in the +vicinity. It is contended that if any previous excavation had been +made here and filled up afterwards the mixed earth would be easily +distinguished from that which was not removed, and that the line of +demarcation would be easily discernible. + +As a rule, this is true; but when dry loose earth of homogeneous +consistency is thrown out of a pit and then thrown in again without +becoming mixed with any other it is sometimes impossible to +distinguish it at a later excavation. This is especially true of earth +free from vegetable matter, as ordinary sand; or composed largely of +vegetable mold, as the soil in overflow lands which have built up +mainly from floods carrying uniform soil sediment. The line of +demarcation between the dug and the undug earth in such conditions may +become indistinguishable except when a vertical face is made which +shall show a clear section of both in contact. + +It is now too late to learn anything about the matter from the site +itself. So many persons have been digging that it would be impossible to +know when the limit is reached between the original excavation--assuming +it to have been made--when the bodies were interred, and that resulting +from the modern researches. The question of age hinges upon the +appearance of the earth in which the bones were found; and the only way +in which we can now learn anything about it is to trench across the hill +at some of the other burial places, in the hope of finding bones at a +similar level, and determining from the conditions in which these are +found how they came there. + +It is beyond question that any soil, humus, or other discolored matter +thrown into an excavation with ordinary soil or subsoil will be +apparent for an indefinite time afterwards. But on some of these high +points and ridges there is even now not a trace of soil. Frost and +wind have worn bare spots where nothing grows or has grown for a long +time. As this region was a prairie devoid of even brush when the +whites settled here, it is evident that such slight protection as +grass or weeds afford would not be sufficient to hold the earth in +place in winter, and when the ground is once swept bare such humble +forms of growth may not get a foothold in future. Anyone who has +studied surface geology knows these facts. + +So at present the whole question of the age of these bones resolves +itself into a statement of one party that they were found in +undisturbed loess, as reported; and of the inability of another party +to show that there may have been an error of observation or a mistaken +interpretation. + +There need be no such doubt in regard to the age of the mounds or the +lodge sites. It would not take many centuries for mounds upon these +sharp, exposed ridges to be entirely washed away, in spite of the fact +that the fine loess is almost impermeable. Rain may not reduce them to +an appreciable extent, but frost and wind will gradually wear them +down. As to the lodge sites, their similarity to modern Indian houses +is so pronounced that we are fully justified in attributing them to +the same degree of culture as that of the Indians of a century ago. +The only point of difference is that the latter dwellings have not +such deep excavations, but the incursion of war-like tribes, or the +restlessness that impels a primitive community to be frequently on the +move, seems a simpler explanation of the difference than to suppose +that identical types are separated by a great period of time. + +Three points must be taken into consideration in fixing a definite age +for these remains: + +1. The relics found in and around the lodge sites, except for the +markings on some of the pottery, are in no wise different from those +picked up on the sites of villages which were occupied when Lewis and +Clark came through here. + +2. Fairly solid bones of animals, and occasionally of humans, are +found in the bottoms of the lodge sites, even where these are damp +most of the year. In the pits, where such remains are preserved by +ashes, this would not mean much; but where they are found in clayey +earth it is evident that "thousands of years" is a meaningless term to +apply to them. + +3. Persons who claim these "thousands of years" for pretty much +everything they find in the ground must explain why it is that while +the bones and implements of these assumed "ancients" are found in such +quantities and in such good preservation, those of later Indians +should have entirely disappeared. + +The only tenable theory of age is the amount of accumulation in the +depressions of the lodge sites. Above the clay which formed the roof, +and is next to the floor now, is a depth of material sometimes (it is +said) as much as 20 or even 22 inches of mingled silt, decayed +vegetation, and soil from the surrounding wall. It is used as an +argument of age that as these sites are on hilltops where there can be +no inwash, this depth must indicate a very remote period for their +construction. But a large amount of the earth thrown out into the +surrounding ring or wall will find its way back into the depression. +The water will stand in them a good part of the year, and the soil +remain damp even in prolonged drought; vegetation is thus more +luxuriant than on the outside, and its decay will fill up rather +rapidly. In addition, much sand blows from the prairies as well as +from the bottom lands, and whatever finds its way into the pit will +stay there; it will not blow away again as it would in open ground. +The weeds, also, will catch and retain much of this dust which would +pass over a dry surface. Consequently the allowance of an inch in a +century, which is the most that advocates of great age will allow for +accumulation, is much too small. + +The topography of the region was essentially the same when these +remains were constructed as it is now. The hills and valleys were as +they now exist; the erosion has been very slight as compared with what +has taken place since the loess was brought above the water, to which +it owes its origin. This statement is fully proven by the position of +the mounds and lodge sites. Any estimate of age must be only a guess +at the best, but it is a safe guess that no earthwork, mound, lodge +site, or human bone along this part of the Missouri River has been +here as long as 10 centuries. + + + + +IV. ABORIGINAL HOUSE MOUNDS + + +The small, low, flattened mounds of the lower Mississippi Valley are a +problem to archeologists. They have been studied principally near the +Mississippi River, in Arkansas and Missouri, and for many years it was +thought that in the latter State they are confined entirely to the +southeastern portion. Recently they have been found much farther to +the north and the west than they were supposed to exist. + +A group, rather limited as to number and to the area covered, is at +the head of a narrow valley trending northward from Granite Mountain +in Iron County. + +"Near Iron Mountain, in St. Francois County, more than 500 of these +small mounds, arranged in parallel rows following the direction of the +watercourses, were counted within a radius of 3 miles."[1] + +The next group known north of this is on the right bank of Plattin +Creek in Jefferson County, about 12 miles from the Mississippi. + +"A group of some 50 similar mounds is situated on the right bank of +the Meramec, about 6 miles above its mouth, in Jefferson County."[2] + +The most northern group so far observed is near Ferguson in St. Louis +County, Missouri, where 46 are located on a narrow ridge which has the +same general elevation as the table-land. The ridge extends around the +head of a ravine, and the mounds are placed along its crest or on the +gentle slopes near the top. There are 10 or 12 at the southern edge of +Ferguson, on an overflow bottom bordering a small creek. + +Toward the west from the swamp region a small group is in a broad +valley near Alton in Oregon County, which borders on Arkansas. They +are scattered along a gentle slope which has a little stream at the +foot. + +In Dent County four groups are known. One is on the infirmary farm +south of the town of Salem. Most of these are but slightly changed +from their natural condition. Another group is 6 miles east of Salem. +These also are largely intact. A third is on the road from Salem to +Short Bend. The fourth is at the edge of Salem, on the Rolla road. + +"On the high plateau of Dallas County, north of the Niangua ... within +an area smaller than 10 square miles, 860 were counted."[3] + +Three groups are well marked in Phelps County. A mile east of Rolla +they begin at the line of the Frisco Railway and extend southward in a +shallow valley or "draw." Some are on the overflow flat bordering the +little stream, but most of them are on the slopes to either side. + +South of Dillon they extend for a mile in a slight depression. + +Beginning at the Soldier's Home in St. James, the largest number yet +found out of the swamp region lie for 21/2 miles on both sides of a +small creek running eastward north of the Frisco Railway. These reach +from low land subject to overflow to an elevation of fully 50 feet up +the hillsides. + +Several groups occur in Pulaski County. Four miles southwest of Big +Piney post office, near the site of what is known as "The Ranch +House," is a little wet-weather stream along both banks of which are +probably a hundred of these structures. Farther up this stream are two +other groups, the three including a distance of about 4 miles in +length between their outer limits. West of these and south of +Bloodland is a fourth group belonging with these. + +In the level bottom between Big Piney River and the branch flowing +from the Miller Spring 2 miles from Big Piney post office a number of +these mounds formerly existed; and on the opposite side of the Big +Piney, in an extensive bottom, were many of them. All these have now +disappeared under cultivation. + +On the outer bend of the Devil's Elbow, on Big Piney 3 miles above its +mouth, some of these mounds stood. They are described as being from 2 +to 3 feet high; the number was not stated, but there is not room for +many in the narrow strip where they were located. + +In the extreme western part of Morgan County, at Stover, is a group +scattered over an area at least half a mile across in any direction. +The distance between the mounds varies from 25 to 150 feet. They are +mostly on gentle slopes, though some are on the crest of the ridges. +Many of these are well preserved, some of them having never been under +cultivation. + +In Osage County there are more than a hundred at the eastern edge of +Rich Fountain. They are in low flat ground which is muddy or even +boggy in wet weather. + +It will be noticed that all those from Alton westward and +north-westward are in line with the route from southeastern Missouri +to the plains of Kansas and Nebraska. + +Practically, however, the northern limit of this type, in great +numbers, is in St. Francois County, near Farmington. From here they +extend almost continuously into Louisiana and Texas. + +In nearly every part of southern Missouri east of the Iron Mountain +Railway they occur in closely connected groups, reaching sometimes for +miles except where the continuity is broken by a slough or other +unfavorable condition. They are found everywhere--on high, +well-drained levels; on sloping ground, sometimes so steep that it may +well be called a hillside; in low "crawfish land"; in swamps where, in +the driest weather, even after a prolonged drought, they can be +reached only by wading through water or muck. The last, however, may +have been more easily accessible when built, their present condition +being due to the general subsidence of this region during the +earthquake period of 1811. The existing sloughs and sluggish bayous +are the widenings and extensions of streams which at the time these +mounds were constructed were no doubt bordered by banks above ordinary +overflow and readily reached by canoes. Manifestly the country was +well populated, and therefore presumably practically timberless; +consequently the flood water would rapidly pass away and the streams +not be choked by drift and other debris as is the case at present. + +Various theories, most of them advanced by persons who are but +slightly, if at all, familiar with the country, have been propounded +to account for mounds of this character. Their vast number has led +some writers to believe that they can not be artificial but must be +due to natural phenomena; as, for instance, that these, as indeed all +mounds, were piled up by floods, Noachic, glacial, or local; or that +they result from the industry and energy of burrowing animals, such as +foxes, badgers, ground hogs, rabbits, prairie dogs, gophers, +chipmunks, or even ants; the character of the assumed flood or the +species of the supposed burrower depending to some extent upon +locality, but principally upon the theorizer's insufficient knowledge +of animal industry or of the action of torrential waters. Others are +convinced they are formed by the piling up of earth around a bush, +clump of grass, stone, or other object acting as a nucleus about which +wind-borne material may accumulate--overlooking the fact that clay, +gravel, or gumbo soil can not be carried by wind, and that lighter +soil or sand will form elongated instead of circular masses. Another +supposition is that they are due to stream erosion; flood waters +washing away the soil between them and thus leaving the earth +composing the mound in its original position. The same objection +applies to this as to the wind-blown theory, namely, that we can not +imagine water acting with such mathematical regularity and intelligent +discrimination, especially upon slopes which lie at all sorts of +angles with the trend of the current. + +Persons who recognize their human origin have suggested that they were +erected as stands for hunters, from which they could detect game at a +greater distance, or could take better aim as the animal passed; or +perhaps as camping places while waiting; but in many places more than +half the area of the ground over several acres is occupied by such +piles of earth, promiscuously distributed. This implies more hunters +than animals. + +For a long time it was supposed that they were burial mounds, like so +many such structures found over the country; but this idea has been +dispelled by the failure to discover in them any evidences of such +purpose; no human bones nor any of the artificial objects commonly +placed with the dead have ever been found in them unless under such +conditions as to show their presence was accidental. + +Two very plausible theories have found general acceptance: That they +were the sites of dwellings, placed on them to be out of the mud in +wet weather; and that they were in the nature of garden beds, thus +elevated for growing any food products which needed a comparatively +dry soil, or might be injured by temporary accumulation of water from +excessive rainfall. + +But they were not "residence mounds" or "house sites" in the sense +that they furnished a base or foundation for structures which were +used as dwellings; for there has never been found on their surface or +in the earth immediately around them any of the debris invariably +accompanying Indian huts or houses, such as fireplaces, ash beds, +burned rocks, broken implements, or fragments of bones and pottery. +These considerations also interfere with a full acceptance of the +hypothesis that they are remains of houses built of wood and covered +with earth. It is true that such evidence is very frequently found in +other localities; but to establish the fact that they were residence +sites, refuse of this kind should be found wherever the mounds occur. + +J.B. Thoburn arrived at this conclusion from the resemblance of some +of them in their outlines to the grass-covered houses of the Pawnees; +and it is believed that this tribe in its migration from the south +followed approximately the route along which these small elevations +are found. When the Pawnees--assuming they were the builders--passed +on westward they could not procure timbers of sufficient strength to +hold up the earth, so they used light frames and covered them with +grass. + +Bushnell arrived earlier at the same conclusion. He says, concerning a +few mounds of this character in Forest Park, St. Louis: "In the case +of the seven mounds on the elevated grounds, the finding of potsherds, +pieces of chipped chert, and the indication of fire, all on what +appeared to have been the original surface, would point strongly to +their having been the remains or ruins of earth-covered lodges." He +gives citations from early explorers in support of this theory, and +adds, "But in other mounds these indications did not occur."[4] + +Such an explanation finds support in the vast number of these +structures. In building, the aborigines naturally chose the sort of +timber which was soft and light, consequently easy to cut and to +handle, such as willow or cottonwood. This soon decays. But no matter +what variety of wood was utilized, not many years would be required, +under the conditions supposed, to weaken its fiber until it could no +longer uphold the weight of earth on the roof, and a new house must be +erected. Several such renewals would be needed in the course of a +century; so that the ruins of an ordinary village might create the +impression that a large settlement had existed on its site. + +The explanation of "agricultural use" is probably correct in some +instances, for frequently the mounds are made of earth gathered up +around their base, and so not only would be of value in a wet season, +but would afford a much greater depth of fertile soil for sustenance +of plants. In some localities modern farmers find that on such mounds +crops are much better than on the low spaces between them. On the +other hand, a majority of the small mounds in the lower counties of +southeastern Missouri are composed either of the hard, reddish, sandy +clay which forms the subsoil of the land above overflow; or of the +tough, waxy, black "gumbo" of the swampy or flat lowlands. In either +case they are almost invariably sterile, so that in a cultivated field +the position of a mound is easily determined even from a considerable +distance by the feebler growth on its surface. Moreover, in many +places, hundreds of them occurring within an area of a few square +miles are built on clay lowlands where crawfish abound, within a few +rods of sandy, well-drained ridges whose soil is never muddy more than +a few hours after the hardest rain, and produces as fine corn and +wheat as can be raised in any part of the State. + +In short, no matter what suggestion has been offered as to their +purpose or uses, objections to it can be brought and sustained. It is +not improbable that, in the end, it will be found the difficulty lies +in trying to place in a hard and fast category a variety of structures +which are similar in appearance but which were intended for various +uses. With more comprehensive study, it may be that a classification +is possible which will interpret what is now obscure. Instead of +uniformity, there was probably great diversity of motives, ideas, and +beliefs which led to the building of these as well as of other mounds; +and when the key is once obtained the explanation which will account +for one may be very different from that which as clearly accounts for +another. + +A few of these mounds have been explored by the writer, but no +discoveries were made upon which can be based a definite statement as +to their probable purpose. + + * * * + + +NEW MADRID COUNTY + +On the farm of A.B. Hunter, 7 miles north of New Madrid, more than 60 +of these mounds, irregularly placed, extend for half a mile along the +west bank of St. John's Bayou, the extreme width of the group being +about 200 yards. The largest mound, standing on the edge of the +terrace, was 6 feet high and 75 feet across. On the original surface, +over a small area at the central part, were decayed fragments of human +bones; so this was probably erected as a tumulus. The others were much +smaller; from a foot to 3 feet high, and 30 to 50 feet in diameter. +Six of these, varying in size from the largest to the smallest, were +thoroughly excavated within the original margin and down to the +undisturbed earth beneath them. No artificial object was found in any +of them except here and there a fragment of pottery or a small amount +of ashes or a piece of charcoal, not intentionally deposited but +gathered up and carried in with the earth in the course of +construction. There were no distinct fire-beds or ash piles at the +bottom, or in any part of the mound; nor were there any holes in which +posts may have stood. + + * * * + + +ST. FRANCOIS COUNTY + +Nearly 2 miles south of Farmington, on Quesnel's land, are about 30 +very small, low mounds, none more than 18 inches high or 25 feet +across. They are on the general level, some of them on a gentle slope, +of the first upland above the St. Francois River and a mile from that +stream at its nearest point. + +Half a mile to the south of these is a group of similar mounds on the +farm of Isaac Hopkins, on a gently sloping hillside, and from 30 to 40 +feet above the level of the overflow bottom land. One of these has +been gradually worn away by the encroachment of a gully until more +than half of it has disappeared. While the curvature of its surface is +very apparent, and the remnant of its margin sufficiently distinct to +show its regularity of outline, careful inspection of the face formed +by the erosion fails to reveal any trace of stratification, or line of +demarcation between the bottom of the mound and the original surface. +There is precisely the same uniformity of change from the grass roots +to the underlying gravelly soil that exists in the exposed bank at any +point to either side of the mound. Mr. Hopkins, desirous of knowing +what might be in the mound, or why it was built, has noted the +appearance of the earth from the time the gully reached its margin. At +no time has its appearance differed in the least from what it presents +now. + +On the river bottom portion of Mr. Hopkins's farm, and on the +adjoining Goings and Townshend farms to the southward, are many mounds +lying along both sides of the Belmont division of the Iron Mountain +Railway. Fully 100 were observed within a distance of a mile; and they +are said to continue both up and down the river. They are all above +flood stage, except in time of extreme high water. They range from a +foot to 3 feet high, and from 20 to 40 feet across; but some of them +have been lowered and broadened by cultivation. They are of the same +earth as the ground around them. Mr. Hopkins says crops are much +better on the mounds than on the area between them. This is no doubt +due to the greater amount of productive soil in the one case, and to +the excess of moisture in the other; the railway embankment impeding +drainage in the lower part. Oak trees 4 feet in diameter grew on the +mounds before they were cleared off. + +Two of these mounds were completely removed, down into the subsoil. +The first was 18 inches high and 35 by 40 feet across; the variation +in breadth resulting from continual cultivation in one direction. It +contained nothing whatever of artificial character, not even a scrap +of pottery. There were no post holes, no indications of a fire bed, no +trace of a distinction between the mound and the soil below it. In +fact, except for the greater thickness of the superficial dark earth +there was no difference between the appearance of the face of the +excavation and that of a hole dug at random in the field. + +The second mound was somewhat larger than the first, being 2 feet high +and 40 feet across, and at a little higher level toward the edge of +the field. It was the largest which could be excavated of this group. +As in the first mound opened, there was no worked object, if a small +flint flake be excepted; no ashes; no fire bed; no trace of +demarcation between the mound and the original surface of the ground, +though in each mound the excavation over the entire area was carried +down into the gravelly, hard-packed subsoil. Its artificial origin is +clearly proven, however, by four holes dug into the earth beneath it +before its construction. Nine feet a little north of the center, which +was assumed to be the highest point of the mound, was a hole (A) 12 by +14 inches and 14 inches deep, with a flat bottom, the sides as regular +as could be expected in hard soil dug out in primitive manner. Nine +feet west of the center was a hole (B) a foot across, 10 inches deep, +with a solid though somewhat irregular bottom. Near the center was a +conical hole (C) a foot deep and the same across the top. Four feet +from it, west of north, was another (D) of about the same size and +shape. The measures given are of course only approximate, as the sides +of all the holes were somewhat uneven, but they are practically +correct. The depth was measured from the top of the gravelly subsoil. +Fourteen feet east of south from the center was an irregular hole (E) +about 2 feet deep to the bottom of the loose dirt in it. This had not +been dug, but was due to the decay of a tree which grew here before +the mound was made. At the top of the dirt filling this hole was a +piece of decayed bark, apparently oak, which had grown in the air; and +farther down fragments of root bark. Eight feet east of the center was +a hole (F), similar to the last, 10 inches deep and averaging 2 feet +across. This, also, resulted from the decay of a stump. + +A plan of the holes is given in figure 37. The dotted lines are merely +to show direction and distance. + + [Illustration: FIG. 37.--Plan of House Mound in St. Francois + County, Mo.] + +This mound offers confirmation of the belief that such structures, or +some of them at least, mark the sites of dwellings. With the two +trees, E and F, the posts, A and B, would form the corners of an +irregular quadrangle; the two posts, C and D, would support the inner +ends of roof timbers. While no trace of posts or roof timbers +remained, it is difficult to imagine for what other purpose these +holes would be dug; and in this heavy, wet earth all traces of wood +must in time disappear. Conversely, the total absence of a fireplace, +potsherds or other remains, and of any sign of a floor, would serve to +dispel the assumption that this spot was ever inhabited even for a +short time. The evidence is as strong one way as it is the other. + +In short, the limited observations above recorded leave the question +of origin and purpose just where it was. + + * * * * * + +Some years ago one of the mounds at Ferguson, St. Louis County, was +opened. No remains of any sort were discovered, according to the +report of the excavators; but on the original surface, at the center +of the mound, was a fire bed in and about which were ashes, charcoal, +and fragments of rude pottery. + +No excavations have ever been made in the mounds near Granite +Mountain; but a tortuous little stream has undercut several of them, +thus making vertical sections as in the case of the mound at Hunter's, +near Farmington. In some mounds only a small portion near the margin +has been removed; in others the erosion has progressed to such an +extent that observations were possible at varying distances, to and +beyond the center. In every instance a monotonous uniformity of +appearance prevails from the top of the mound into the underlying +gravel. At no level is there a sign of a floor, fire bed, or other +evidence of human work; and no difference can be detected between the +earth upon which the mound rests and that on either side. Yet the +mounds are indubitably artificial. + +Exactly the same remarks apply to several mounds on the County Farm, +near Salem. A little creek and a drainage ditch have cut away varying +portions of them, and they merge insensibly into the soil and gravel +on either side. + + * * * * * + +In further support of the theory that these mounds are the remains of +earth-covered houses, a few extracts relating to the area under +discussion will be given from Dr. Cyrus Thomas in the Twelfth Annual +Report of the Bureau of Ethnology: + +Near "Beckwith's Fort," in Mississippi County, Missouri, are (p. +189)-- + + Low, flattish, circular mounds * * * [which] appear to belong to + two classes, those used for dwelling sites and those used for + burial purposes, the former being the higher and the color of the + surface layer darker than that of the other class. This darker + color of the surface layer is probably due to the fact that + immediately below it are found fire-beds with burnt earth, + charcoal, ashes, and the bones of animals, (mostly split). There + are seldom any human skeletons or entire vessels of pottery in + the mounds of this class though the earth is filled with + fragments of broken vessels. + +In describing mound excavations in Crittenden County, Arkansas, the +explorer states (p. 227): + + As an almost universal rule, after removing a foot or two of top + soil, a layer of burnt clay in a broken or fragmentary condition + would be found, sometimes with impressions of grass or twigs, + which easily crumbled but was often hard and stamped apparently + with an implement made of split reeds of comparatively large + size. This layer was in places a foot thick and frequently burned + to a brick red or even to clinkers. + + Below this, at a depth of 3 to 5 feet from the surface, were more + or less ashes, and often 6 inches of charred grass, immediately + covering skeletons. The latter were found lying in all + directions, some with the face up, others with it down, and + others on the side. With these were vessels of clay, in some + cases one, sometimes more. + +The positions of the skeletons in this mound would indicate that while +the inmates of the house were asleep the roof fell and killed them. It +was customary among some southern Indians to bury the dead under the +floors of the houses; but the text clearly shows that these skeletons +were lying on the floor. It would be supposed from most reports, not +only in the volume quoted, but from various other sources as well, +that only the walls of these houses were plastered with mud, the roof +being of thatch alone. It seems to be overlooked that the tops of the +houses would have even more need of such protection than the sides. +The marks indicating that the clay was "stamped apparently with an +implement made of split reeds" are only the impressions of the reeds +or saplings by which the clay was supported; the "brick like" or +"clinker like" condition of the clay being due, of course, to the +destruction of the house by fire. + +Adair, in his History of the Southern Indians, says they daub their +houses with tough mortar mixed with dry grass; that they build winter +or hot houses after the manner of Dutch ovens, covered with clay. +Again: + + They are lathed with cane and plastered with mud from bottom to + top, within and without, with a good covering of straw. + +This seems to mean that the entire building was plastered with mud, +and then covered with grass to shed the rainfall. + +In a mound in Arkansas County, Arkansas (Twelfth Ann. Rept. Bur. +Ethn., p. 231)-- + + About 2 feet under the surface was a thick layer of burnt clay, + which probably formed the roof. In tracing out the circumference + a hard clay floor was found beneath, and between the two several + inches of ashes, but no skeletons. There were a great many pieces + of broken dishes so situated as to lead one to believe they were + on top of the house at the time it was burned. + +The fact that no skeletons or utensils were discovered on the floor +finds its most reasonable explanation in the supposition that the +inmates, finding their abode to be unsafe, moved out and took their +possessions with them. This would account, also, for the absence of +such remains in similar mounds farther north. The abundance of pottery +fragments found in this case, and in many others, may mean only that +these were worked in as a part of the clay roofing. They would be of +some service in holding the clay in place in wet weather. + +It is quite probable that the continuous, though fragmentary, layer of +burned clay on the floor so often noted is due in part at least to the +material forming the roof. The walls would be more apt to fall outward +than inward, and would be more liable to crumble than to fall as an +intact mass. In fact, this is clearly shown by the statement (p. 229) +that in certain house sites in St. Francis County, Arkansas, + + The edges are all higher and have a thicker layer of this + [burned] material than the inner areas. + +Further, in describing explorations of certain "hut rings" at +"Beckwith's Fort" in Mississippi County, Missouri (p. 187), the report +states that they are + + from 30 to 50 feet in diameter, measuring to the tops of their + rims, which are raised slightly above the natural level. The + depth of the depression at the center is from 2 to 3 feet. Near + the center, somewhat covered with earth, are usually found the + baked earth, charcoal, and ashes of ancient fires, and around + these and beneath the rims [that is, the surrounding ring or + embankment] split bones and fresh-water shells. Often mingled + with this refuse material are rude stone implements and fragments + of pottery. + +Note is made of + + the similarity in the size, form, and general appearance of these + depressions and earthen rings to those of the earth lodges of the + abandoned Mandan towns along the Missouri River. + +It appears, too, that certain sites were occupied for long periods, +new houses being constructed when necessary. In describing mounds in +Poinsett County, Arkansas, the same writer says (p. 205) that + + The positions and relations of these beds * * * make it evident + that upon the site of one burned dwelling another was usually + constructed, not infrequently a third, and sometimes even a + fourth, the remains of each being underlaid and usually overlaid + in part by very dark, adhesive clay or muck. * * * + + The peculiar black color of these beds is chiefly in consequence + of the large proportion of charcoal with which they are mixed, + some of it doubtless the fine particles of burned grass and reed + matting with which the cabins appear to have been thatched. + +These layers of "very dark" material undoubtedly are remains of mud +from the adjacent swamps, which was mixed with or plastered over the +grass roofs. It is difficult to understand how they could have become +mixed after the burning. + +As showing the extent to which this prolonged occupancy was carried, +we are informed (p. 254) that in Coahoma County, Mississippi, a mound +was-- + + oval and rounded on top, 210 feet long, 150 broad at the base, + and 16 feet high. This mound and several smaller ones near it are + so nearly masses of fire beds, burnt clay, fragments of stone and + pottery, together with more or less charcoal and ashes, as to + indicate clearly that they are the sites of ancient dwellings + thus elevated by accumulation of material during long continued + occupancy. + +In still other portions of the country besides those already mentioned +are evidences of similar houses whose sites are now marked by mounds. +In southern Ohio, especially, records of excavations contain numerous +references to post holes under mounds both large and small. In the +case of the former, so far as we may judge from the reports, the +houses were destroyed before the mounds were built, and it does not +appear that they were ever covered with earth. In the small, low, flat +mounds, under which such holes existed, no thought was taken that +these may mark the position of posts used to support a roof; all +mounds were explored with the idea that they were for burial purposes, +consequently no attention was paid to these features. + +The Mandan houses, as described by Lewis and Clark, Catlin, and +others, when fallen into ruins would leave exactly such mounds or hut +rings as those found in Missouri and Arkansas. + +It is now generally conceded that the wall or embankment at Aztalan, +Wisconsin, concerning which so many wild theories have been +promulgated, was simply a series of such house sites connected by a +low ridge. The evidences of mysterious sacrificial altars seem to be +due only to the destruction of such houses by fire. + +In Wisconsin, also, and in Minnesota, are many small mounds apparently +of this character which are due to an extinct tribe known to the Sioux +and Chippewas as "The Ground House Indians." + +In 1887 I became acquainted, at Munising, Michigan, with Mr. William +Cameron. He was of the Scotch clan of Camerons, a nephew of a former +Governor of Canada. Educated for a profession, he made a visit to +relatives in Canada in early manhood, and the attractions of the +wilderness proved so great that he never returned to his home. At the +time I met him he was 84 years of age, in full possession of his +mental faculties. For more than 60 years he had traversed the Lake +region, his fur trading and trapping expeditions having carried him +over all the country from Montreal to the mouth of the Mackenzie +River. Much of his life had been spent among the Indians, especially +the Sioux and Chippewas. He learned from them all they could tell him +of their tribal history and former methods of living. The Chippewas +told him that when they first came into the country they found the +Sioux in possession, but finally, obtaining arms from the French, they +drove the Sioux westward. + +The "old men" of the Sioux corroborated this tradition and told +Cameron that as they went westward they came to a race of people who +lived in mounds which they piled up. These people were large and +strong, but cowardly. "If they had been as brave as they were big," +said the Sioux, "between them and the Chippewas we would have been +destroyed; but they were great cowards and we easily drove them away." + +Mr. B.G. Armstrong, of Ashland, Wisconsin, told me that he had taken +great pains to investigate this tradition. From all that he could +gather by much inquiry among the Indians and from his own +observations, he was satisfied of its correctness. These people, whom +the Sioux called Ground House Indians, built houses of logs and posts, +over and around which they piled earth until it formed a conical mass +several feet thick above the roof. Their territory extended from Lake +Eau Claire, about 30 miles south of Lake Superior, to the Wisconsin +River near Wausau or Stevens Point; down the Wisconsin a short +distance; thence west into Minnesota, but how far he could not say; +then around north of Yellow Lake back to the Eau Claire region. The +Sioux exterminated the tribe, the last survivors being an old man and +a woman who had married a Sioux. They were taken to the present site +of Superior, near Duluth, and "died about 200 years ago"--that is, in +the last quarter of the seventeenth century. + +Gordon, an intelligent Indian living at the town of the same name, a +short distance south of Superior, was familiar with this tradition, as +were other Indians with whom I talked, and who accepted it as a +well-known fact. Gordon related that he had heard "the old men" say +these Indians erected their houses of wood and piled several feet of +dirt over them; and they buried their dead in little mounds out in +front of their houses and a few hundred feet away. He told of a mound +that was opened near Yellow Lake in which the position and condition +of the skeletons, two or three of children being among them, showed +"as plainly as anything could" that they had been sitting or lounging +around the fire, when the roof fell in and crushed them. + +There is a "Ground House River" in eastern Minnesota, which probably +derives its name from this people. + + +FOOTNOTES: + + [Footnote 1: Bushnell, D.I., jr., Archeology of the Ozark region + of Missouri. Amer. Anthrop., n.s. vol. 6, no. 2, p. 298.] + + [Footnote 2: Bushnell, D.I., jr., Archeology of the Ozark region + of Missouri. Amer. Anthrop., n.s. vol. 6, no. 2, p. 298.] + + [Footnote 3: Ibid., p. 297.] + + [Footnote 4: Papers Peabody Museum, vol. III, no. 1, p. 16.] + + + + +V. ARCHEOLOGICAL WORK IN HAWAII + +INTRODUCTION + + +The ethnologist or archeologist desiring to conduct explorations on +the Hawaiian Islands will find it necessary to begin his labors at the +Bishop Museum in Honolulu. This museum contains an extensive +collection of articles, classified, arranged, and labeled, +illustrating every phase of native life as it has existed since the +islands have been known to white men, as well as many of the +implements and objects pertaining to agriculture, fisheries, and +domestic occupations of earlier times. Models or casts of houses, and +of individuals engaged in various lines of industry, give the visitor +a clear idea as to the routine of ordinary daily life. A careful study +of all these things enlightens him in regard to what he may expect to +find and to the meaning of such discoveries as he may make. + +The extensive library which belongs to the museum contains every +publication relating not alone to the islands but to all the +archipelagoes of the southern Pacific that it is possible to procure; +and among the most valuable of the volumes are the reports and memoirs +of the museum itself, in which are set forth the observations and +deductions of numerous investigators who, either in behalf of the +museum or under its auspices, have endeavored to find a solution for +the many problems involved. + +Equally valuable to the student are the information, interpretations, +and instruction freely placed at his disposal by those connected with +the museum, especially by Dr. Brigham, the former director, whose long +and busy life has been devoted almost entirely to a study of the +Polynesian groups; by Professor Gregory, the present director, who +with tireless energy is the impelling force behind various lines of +scientific research; by Mr. Stokes, curator of the ethnological +department, who for more than a score of years has been surveying, +photographing, and collecting in every part of the islands; by Mr. +Thomas G. Thrum, of Honolulu, who has completed, in manuscript, a +volume containing a list and description of more than 500 heiaus on +the islands; and by various other men who, in private life, have +devoted much time and close attention to whatever may pertain to +native life and customs. + + * * * + + +MOLOKAI ISLAND + +Following the advice of those whose knowledge gave them authority to +speak decisively, the initial base of research was the island of +Molokai, which presents the best conditions for study. It lies off the +usual lines of travel, offers no inducement to tourists who wish to +have the benefit of good roads and comfortable hotels, and +consequently is seldom visited except by those who are called on +business or who go as the guests of the few residents there. + +Mr. George Cooke, one of the owners of a large cattle and sheep ranch +on the island, and greatly interested in its aboriginal history, gave +most generous aid in a reconnoissance of such parts as he had time to +visit. He placed his beautiful summer residence at the disposal of +Prof. Gregory and the writer, and conducted the explorers to nearly +all the places of interest which could be approached by automobile. +Mr. James Munro, manager of the ranch, also rendered valuable +assistance. Owing to his long residence here he has become thoroughly +familiar with every noteworthy feature, and pointed out many remains +which, without his guidance, would have been missed altogether. Fully +acquainted with the life of the Hawaiian people, he made clear the +origin and purpose of many things that, lacking his intelligent +explanation, would have been without significance. + +Although there are now comparatively few Hawaiians on Molokai, it is +evident that the island at one time supported a dense population. +Along the southern, or leeward, coast are numerous fish ponds formed +by building a stone wall across an inlet or, more frequently, by +constructing it with the ends on shore and carrying it around a +section of the open sea. The walls are strong enough to resist the +waves, well above the level of high tide, and surround spaces of +various areas up to 70 acres. These ponds were stocked with numerous +kinds of fish which, thus protected from their natural enemies, +increased rapidly and formed an unfailing food supply. The antiquity +of these ponds is denoted by the amount of silt partially filling +them, brought down from the mountains by erosion of the soil. They are +still used to some extent by Hawaiians as well as by other residents. + +Inland, low walls of stone or earth, or both, surround hundreds of old +taro patches, one variety of these plants requiring an abundant supply +of water during its growth. The poi made from taro was the principal +vegetable food of the inhabitants. Sweet potatoes were also a leading +article of diet. The fields in which they were grown may still be +identified here and there by the little ridges heaped up. All these, +with the addition of migratory birds and fowls which at certain +seasons swarmed on the different islands, supplemented by various nuts +and fruits growing spontaneously, provided a varied and ample food +supply. Mammals, except the pig, dog, and rat (really a large mouse), +which came in with the early natives, were unknown prior to the advent +of the whites. There were no land reptiles and few indigenous noxious +insects; although mosquitoes, not to mention certain domestic pests, +abound in a few places, and there are some scorpions and centipedes; +but these, like measles, smallpox, tuberculosis, and worse diseases, +are adjuncts of an enforced civilization. The mongoose, brought in to +destroy rats, and the myna bird, to devour insects, are themselves now +beginning to be detrimental. + +Along the coasts, on the headlands and lower hills, and to a less +extent farther inland, are village sites, foundations of temples and +houses, garden patches inclosed by stone walls, and long rows of +stones, some of which are borders of roads or trails, others being for +purposes which are undetermined. Among these, taro beds and sweet +potato patches may still be traced. + +The most remarkable among the remains are the great temple site on +Senator Cooke's ranch, toward the east end of the island, and the +"paved trail" 10 miles down the coast from Kaunakakai, the principal +village and harbor. The former is rectangular in outline, built on +irregular ground, of stones large and small, to form a level platform +on which a thousand persons could assemble without being hampered for +lack of room. The outer faces of the walls vary from 3 to 20 feet in +height; and except at the lowest parts there are terraces or steps all +around, about 5 feet in height and of differing width. Surrounding +this platform, extending for half a mile up the little valley of which +it marks the entrance, on the slopes to either side, and on the nearly +level area reaching down to the sea in front, are all the indications +of a populous settlement. + +It is said that the ruins were formerly much more numerous and +extensive, the larger part of them being swept out of existence by a +great rush of water from the mountains "a long time ago." + +The "paved trail" is a causeway of large stones. Some parts of it are +obliterated by slides and encroaching ravines; other parts preserve +the original condition and appearance. The width is not quite uniform, +as the stones are of different sizes, but it departs very little +either way from 6 feet. So far as can be judged in its present +overgrown state, it extends in a straight line for about 2 miles, from +the beach to a point on the hill at an altitude of fully 1,000 feet. +To what it led, or why it was built, are questions awaiting an answer. + +All of these places are now abandoned except a few villages along the +coast. The people are not here to occupy them, and even if they were +the conditions have become so changed that residence about them is no +longer feasible. At the temple site, for example, the extent of the +old taro beds predicates an abundance of water; at present, the one +family living near by must carry it in a dry season from the well or +spring of a neighbor. There is no steady water supply within miles of +the "paved trail." + +Clearly, extensive changes have taken place in recent times in climate +and perhaps in topography. Fifty years ago forests of large trees grew +over hundreds of square miles on the southern slopes of Molokai where +at the present time there is only grass, or where algaroba trees, +similar to the mesquite of the southwestern United States, are now +spreading. This deforestation is still going on; dead or dying trees +fringe the timber still standing. The cause of this progressive +barrenness has not, so far, been, fully ascertained; there is +undoubtedly a connection between it and the diminished water supply, +though which is cause and which is effect, or whether both are due in +common to some atmospheric phenomenon, is unknown. One result, +however, is apparent. The roots of the forest trees do not extend deep +into the earth, but spread out over the surface like those of pine +trees. Thus much of the rainfall was prevented from escaping rapidly +and such as was not absorbed by the roots made its way into the ground +beneath the upper soil, whence it percolated downward to feed the +springs. Now the greater part of the water runs off and is lost. For +this reason large areas once well populated are no longer habitable. + +Molokai, like other islands of the group, contains no stone except of +volcanic or coral formation. There is no chert or similar material +from which chipped implements can be made; nor, as would naturally be +expected, is there any obsidian suitable for such manufacture. It may +occasionally be seen on the sites of villages, but always in small +angular fragments seldom more than half an inch in any dimension, +always coarse-grained, even porous, and never of a quality which can +be flaked into definite forms. No doubt its only use was as an +abrasive, after being pounded fine. Rarely, quartz or chalcedony is +found; it resembles the deposit around hot springs or in fissures, +and, like the obsidian, is in fragments too small to be utilized +except as a grinding or polishing material for smoothing wrought +objects. + +Manufactured stone specimens are confined principally to three general +classes: Adzes, for working in wood; pestles, for pounding the taro +root; and discoids, for games. The last are exactly similar to the +chunkey stones so abundant in the States, except that none of them +have concave or hollowed faces, and they are used in the same way. +There were three forms of the game: To hurl or roll a disk farther +than an opponent; to strike a pole or other mark set up; and to test +the inherent magical powers of the stones by rolling them in such a +way that they would collide, the object in this case being to see +which one might prove victorious by breaking the other or forcing it +out of its course. A suitable arena for the contest was prepared by +carefully leveling and smoothing a straight, narrow strip of ground to +any length desired, a slight wall being thrown up along each margin. + +Pottery was unknown, there being no clay suitable for making it. +Calabashes or gourds and wooden trays served as receptacles, though +stone dishes or bowls are sometimes found. Along the coast occur +sinkers, either plummet-shaped or half-ovoid like an egg divided +lengthwise. This form has a groove around the longer diameter, +crossing the flat face, and was tied to a white shell as a sinker in +catching squids or cuttlefish, a hook being attached to the line. +Coral was much used as files or rasps. There are a few objects whose +purpose is problematical; and some highly polished black disks which, +laid flat and covered with a film of water, make excellent mirrors; +but aside from what is here mentioned, not much worked stone is found. +Wood, bone, and shell served as the raw material for nearly all other +needs. + +Graves, or what are supposed to be graves, marked by cairns 3 or 4 +feet high, or perhaps by only one or two layers of stones, are found, +though rare. Many so-called caves--which are merely "tunnels," +"bubbles," or "blow-holes" in the lava--were utilized as burial +vaults. The natives vigorously protested against an attempt to +excavate any of these, claiming that their ancestors or members of +their families are buried in them and must not be disturbed. In the +dunes human skeletons are frequently exposed by the shifting of the +sands by the high wind. The natives seem to have little regard for +these. Perhaps they are of the "common people," while cairns cover the +chiefs or priests. There is a tradition that in "the old times" most +of the dead were cast into the ocean as an offering to the Shark God. + +There are no mounds or other structures of earth; everything was built +of stone. All structures began at the surface of the ground. No +evidence has been found of an occupation earlier than that of the +present Hawaiian people. At no point examined in ravines or cliffs was +there the slightest hint of human life at a period antedating that +beginning with the race discovered by Captain Cook. Consequently no +extended excavations were attempted. The results of some examinations +made in three different places will be presented. + +About 10 miles in an air line from Kaunakakai and the same distance +from Mr. Cooke's home, on a mountain known as Mauna Loa, is a narrow, +sharp ridge extending nearly south and terminating abruptly at the +junction of two deep ravines. On the end of this are two house sites, +or heiaus, which had never been disturbed. They are as nearly +rectangular as the irregular stones of which they are built will +permit. The larger (A) has its south wall at the edge of the low +cliff, with its sides nearly on the cardinal lines. Omitting inches +from the measurements, its outer dimensions are: North wall 38 feet, +south wall 32 feet, east wall 33 feet, west wall 32 feet. The +corresponding inside measurements are 21 feet, 19 feet, 21 feet, and +22 feet. Thirteen feet north from the north wall is a stone pile 13 +feet north and south by 10 feet east and west, 18 inches high. Ten +feet west of this is a single layer of stones covering an area 7 feet +east and west by 4 feet north and south. At 9 feet out from the middle +of the west wall is a platform 7 by 7 feet, its west edge on large +stones in place. At the west end of the north wall are three large +flat stones, one of them forming the corner, the two others west of +this, the three being up-edged and in a continuous line. + +Within the inclosure, at the southern end, is a closely laid pavement +formed of a single stratum of loose stones, laid on the earth, and +covering a space 20 feet east and west by 10 feet north and south. +Along the inside of the wall, at the northeast corner, is a similar +pavement 12 feet north and south by 4 feet 6 inches east and west, and +a foot high. Both of these pavements were probably intended for seats +and beds. On the larger pavement, 5 feet from the south wall, 9 feet +from the east corner, was a boulder, its diameters 11, 12, and 15 +inches, whose largest surface lay uppermost and was hollowed out to +form, a deep saucer-shaped depression like a mortar; but as there was +nothing to grind, it was probably to crack or pound nuts in. At the +middle of the southeast quarter of the inclosure was a pile of stones +31/2 feet across and 1 foot high; there was nothing under them. Seven +feet from the north wall, 10 feet from the east wall, was a fireplace +formed of two slabs on the east and west sides and a flattened boulder +on the south side, all upedged, the north side being left open. Its +bottom was undisturbed earth, a foot lower than the level of the +platforms. It would seem, though this is uncertain, that the platforms +or pavements were on the original surface level, the unpaved space +being cleared out to the level of the bottom of the fireplace, and +that this space had been filled with earth blown in by the winds after +the spot was abandoned. From outside to outside the upedged stones +measured 26 by 28 inches; the space inside 18 by 20 inches. On the +west edge was a large grinding stone, the amount of wear on its +surface indicating much use. A pavement 4 feet wide reached from the +open side of the fireplace to the north wall. + +In the cavity was about half a bushel of small stones, most of them +burned. When meat was to be baked, a fire was made in the pit and as +many of the stones as required were heated; they were placed in the +body cavity, in the mouth, and in slits cut in the skin of the animal, +which was then deposited in the pit, closely covered, and left until +thoroughly cooked. Similar ovens or barbecue holes, and the same +method of cooking, are still in use among the natives in their +villages. + +Views of this house site and of the fireplace, taken from various +directions, are shown in plates 38-40. + +Nearly north of the house site (A), at a distance of 91 feet, is the +similar structure (B). The ground on which this is built is 6 feet +lower than at (A). Its measurements are 23 by 24 feet outside, 13 by +18 feet inside, longest north and south. The entire interior is paved. +For a space of 8 feet from the north end the pavement is a foot higher +than in the south end. Beginning at the foot of the south wall, on the +outer side, and extending for 29 feet toward (A), there is a closely +laid stone pavement 10 feet wide at the wall and gradually diminishing +to a width of 5 feet; its termination is nearly square, the slight +curve being apparently not intentional. The west edge of this pavement +is in a straight line, the east edge being curved. + +Partial views are given in plate 41. + +Neither (A) nor (B) has any opening for a doorway, nor is there any +apparent method of easy entrance, though a slight platform on the +north side of (A) may have supported steps of wood. + +These walls, as in all other heavy structures observed, were made by +carefully laying up two rows of large stones at a little distance +apart and filling the space between them with stones of any convenient +size, thrown in at random. Timbers set in them formed the skeleton +structure of a house which was completed of poles and smaller growth, +the sides and roof being thatched. The weight of the stones held the +main timbers against the force of the wind even in severe storms. + +The surface over hundreds of acres around these ruins is covered with +house sites, long straight rows of stones, and garden lots surrounded +by stone walls. Shop refuse, mostly chips and spalls from adz making, +sea shells broken to extract the mollusks, coral for abrading, adzes +in all stages of finish, and many "olimaikis" (chunkey stones) are +found. A mile away is a chunkey yard or bowling alley about 600 feet +long on the crest of a ridge which overlooks the ocean on both sides +of the island. + + +THE RAIN HEIAU + +A mile from the Cooke residence is a peculiar structure, said to be +the only one of its kind in the entire Hawaiian group. Native +tradition has it that "a long time ago" a rain wizard who was angered +by the people of this district sent such rains that everything was on +the point of being washed out to sea. Another wizard told the people +to make a heiau (temple, or sacred building) with many small +compartments which were to be left uncovered in order that the +raindrops, each of which was as large as a man's head, could be caught +and held in them, and burned. The rain would cease when the first +wizard learned that he was being circumvented. + + [Illustration: PLATE 38 + a, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking west + b, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking north + c, Heiaus A and B, on Molokai Island, looking south] + + [Illustration: PLATE 39 + a, Heiau A, on Molokai Island, looking south + b, Platform in Heiau A, looking southeast + c, Paved way in Heiau A, looking southwest] + + [Illustration: PLATE 40 + a, Paved way in Heiau A, looking north + b, Fireplace in Heiau A] + + [Illustration: PLATE 41 + a, Heiau B, on Molokai Island, looking northwest + b, Heiau B, showing stone-paved interior, looking northeast] + + [Illustration: PLATE 42 + a, The "Rain Heiau," Molokai Island, looking west + b, The "Rain Heiau," looking south] + + [Illustration: PLATE 43 + a, The "Rain Heiau," looking north + b, The "Rain Heiau," looking southwest] + + [Illustration: PLATE 44 + a, The "Sacrifice Stones" on Molokai Island; looking southwest + b, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking west] + + [Illustration: PLATE 45 + a, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking northwest + b, The "Sacrifice Stones," looking south] + +As it now remains, this heiau consists of flat stones placed on edge +to make an inclosure 301/2 by 201/2 feet across the center, the length of +the walls being 271/2 feet on the north, 311/2 feet on the south, 19 feet +on the east, and 231/2 feet on the west. At the middle is a minor +inclosure, similarly formed, 5 feet 8 inches by 3 feet 8 inches, +longest north and south. This is a kind of "altar" or "praying place." +From it a narrow passage, 12 to 18 inches wide, extends to the middle +of each side. In each of the four divisions thus formed other stones +were placed to form box-like spaces of diverse shapes and dimensions +from 9 by 15 to 20 by 28 and 15 by 45 inches. All the stones were set +on the surface, braced against one another; no excavation was made to +hold them. They have been somewhat displaced so that the exact number +of the boxes can not now be ascertained, but there are somewhere +between 110 and 120 of them. + +Partial views are shown in plates 42 and 43. + + +THE SACRIFICE STONES + +On the south side of a ravine with steep slopes and bowlder-strewn +bottom, half a mile from the "Rain Heiau," is a pile of stones, most +of them the natural outcrop, but some of them intentionally placed. +The entire mass measures about 27 feet across each way. The highest +stone is a weather-worn slab, with the upper surface somewhat convex, +6 feet 9 inches long, 2 feet 3 inches wide on the bottom, 1 foot 3 +inches wide on top, 1 foot 4 inches thick. It lies nearly east and +west, the upper end on the ground, the lower end on a large bowlder, +beyond which it projects for 28 inches. Beneath this, with a space of +8 inches between them, is another stone, 5 feet long, 2 feet 4 inches +wide, and 10 inches thick. Its upper surface is concave, the entire +margin being higher than the central portion. It lies north and south, +the southern end being supported by three small superposed slabs. + +These two are supposed to be sacrificial stones, on which victims were +extended at full length, face downward. In this position they were +easily slain by being decapitated or the neck or head being broken +with a club or a stone. That they were utilized for some definite +purpose is evident from the fact that the projecting ends of both have +been broken off square, the spalls splitting back along the +under-surface. + +Views are given in plates 44 and 45. + +On the opposite slope of the ravine from the sacrifice stones are two +old dancing platforms, made by digging the earth down on the hillside +to form a level area, the lower margin of which is supported by a high +wall of heavy stones. Near the platforms, on the steep slope, is a +space of a fourth of an acre surrounded by a stone wall; and a row of +stones marks and preserves a trail or path from them to the bottom of +the ravine, terminating at what seems to be a small reservoir +surrounded by stones and earth, with a dam above and to one side of it +to shut out storm water. + +One hundred and fifty yards up the ravine from the dance platforms are +two large artificial depressions in weathered bowlders. They have the +appearance of mortars or nut-crushing holes, but are supposed to be +for catching water during rains, as it is known that the natives made +these miniature reservoirs or catch basins, the water being dipped out +into vessels as it accumulated. + + * * * + + +HAWAII ISLAND + +There are reports of former heiaus, house sites, etc., in and around +Hilo, and there are numerous so-called "caves," many of which were +used by the earlier natives as receptacles for their dead. The term +"cave" is not to be taken in its usual meaning of a cavity due to +erosion by water, or the small recesses due to wind scouring. In the +Hawaiian Islands it means a tube or tunnel; a hollow space due to gas +expansion; or a hole formed by gas or steam expansion or explosion in +the lava while it is still soft or flowing; and which is now +accessible where the top has fallen in or where it has reached the +face of a cliff. These still exist practically as they were at the +time of their formation. + +Of remains upon the surface, the clearing-up processes necessary for +cultivation, and the improvements in and around the towns and +villages, have either entirely destroyed them or so defaced them that +they are now only shapeless ruins. Most or all of the near-by caves +are in lava flows of comparatively recent origin and no reports of +interments in them could be definitely verified. Human bones were +found in three caves near Olaa, 10 miles from Hilo, but no objects of +any sort were with them. The condition of the bones showed they had +not been long deposited; in fact, with one skeleton were hobnailed +leather shoes, with the bones of the feet still in them. + +Three skeletons were discovered in a small cave near the dock in +making an excavation for a railway cut. An old man living in the +vicinity protested vigorously against any disturbance of them, saying +they had been his friends and he had helped bury them. In deference to +his sentiment the line of the track was deflected so as not to disturb +the spot. + +Nearly all of the bones mentioned above were soft and decayed, owing +to the water which had percolated through the roof and dripped on +them. + + +KILAUEA + +It seemed probable that burials, or places where religious rites had +been performed, might be found in the vicinity of the volcano. A +number of caves were visited, but no evidence could be found to +indicate that bodies were ever deposited in them, and persons living +in that region had never heard of anything of the sort being found. A +few of the caves were dry, but most of them were wet or have become +obstructed by falling in of the sides or roof. Ledges and terraces +within the ancient crater may contain graves, but lava flows and ash +deposits have obliterated all traces of such if they ever existed. + + +WAIMEA + +From 2 to 4 miles west of Waimea, on both sides of the road to +Kawaihae, are numerous stone walls, house sites, garden inclosures, +taro terraces, and other forms, of uncertain use and purpose. The +remains extend over many hundreds of acres. It is said that up to +about 1840 this was an important town, containing at one period about +17,000 inhabitants. + + +QUARRY ON MAUNA KEA + +Waimea is the point from which to start for the quarries where the +ancients obtained the hard black stone for making adzes. A great +amount of work was done there, and refuse is abundant. It is 48 miles +from Waimea to the quarries, part of the way by cattle trail through +rough country, and they are at an elevation of more than 10,000 feet, +considerably above the winter snow line. An examination was not +attempted, as a visit to them involved securing a camping outfit and +hiring guides and helpers at exorbitant wages. + + +KAWAIHAE + +The "Great Temple" built by King Kamehameha I is on a bluff 100 feet +high, separated from the beach by a low level space 100 yards wide. +This flat contains many stone structures, but their number, design, +and character can not be ascertained on account of the almost +impenetrable growth of algaroba. One of them is a rectangle about 50 +by 150 feet, the walls high and thick; probably it is an older temple. +There is some modern work here, because in one place a wall is +cemented, perhaps by ranchmen. + +The "Great Temple" measures 80 by 200 feet on the outside, 50 by 150 +feet inside, longest north and south. The two ends and the side toward +the land are nearly intact and from 10 to 20 feet high according to +the surface of the ground. At the north end, inside, is a platform 80 +feet north and south by 45 feet east and west, the four walls +carefully and regularly laid up, the space within them filled with +large stones, and the surface leveled with beach pebbles. It ends 4 +feet within the wall next the sea, the top of this wall being on a +level with the bottom of the platform. At the south end is another +platform 40 feet east and west by 20 feet north and south, abutting +against the east and south walls. A step or terrace 6 feet wide +extends the full length of its north side. It has a less finished +appearance than the platform at the north end. The central space, +between the two, is paved with large stones which apparently pass +under both platforms and extend from the foot of the east wall nearly +to the west wall, a slight ditch separating it from the latter. The +west wall stands below the top of the slope, and its outer face is +from 10 to 20 feet high, in three platforms each 8 feet wide. On the +slope below are several structures a few feet square formed by two +parallel rows of stones with a cross wall at the lower ends, the +cellar-like space thus inclosed being filled with pebbles to a level +with the top of the walls. + +From the northeast and northwest corners long walls extend northwest +and southwest toward the beach. Their outer ends are lost in the +thicket. + + +EAST POINT DISTRICT + +From Kapoho southward to Kalapana and beyond many remains are +reported, but residents say they are of rather modern date, some of +them having been occupied since white people came into the country to +live. Lava flows of recent date have covered a few. + + +NAPOOPOO + +The large heiau at which Captain Cook made his landing, and where he +allowed himself to be worshipped as a god, is about in its original +condition, having been repaired in recent years. When Captain Cook +attempted to seize the King as a prisoner, the natives naturally +rallied to the King's defense. A stone or other missile struck Cook on +the head. + +Early in the last century an old Hawaiian who as a small boy witnessed +the affray told Rev. Mr. Paris (as related by his daughter) that if +Cook had been the god he pretended to be, the blow would not have hurt +him; but when he fell with a loud groan the people knew he was only a +man like themselves and, enraged at the deception practiced on them, +quickly made an end of him. + + +HONAUNAU + +The wall of the City of Refuge is nearly intact, as is that of the +large heiau. Another heiau was destroyed by a tidal wave. The place is +now a public park. Stokes, of the Bishop Museum, has done much work +here and at Napoopoo. The result of his labors will be published. + + +KEAUHOU + +The "Slide," made here in the time of King Kamehameha I, consists of +two stone walls from 50 to 75 feet apart, the space between them being +filled with stones to provide a level surface from side to side and to +equalize the slope from top to bottom. It begins a mile from the foot +of the hill, and its terminus was on a level area near the coast. The +lower end is now so displaced and overgrown for a fourth of a mile +that it can no longer be traced; the remainder of it is practically +intact. The slope is not uniform, being somewhat determined by the +natural surface, so that it is steeper in some parts than in others. +Near the upper end some short stretches are quite steep, presenting +from below the appearance of terraces. In places, flat stones are laid +pavement fashion from side to side, or rows of stones which seem to be +the tops of walls extend across. These were probably to prevent +crawling of the smaller material used as a leveler. The slide, +according to an old Hawaiian, was covered with one variety of grass, +on which was laid another variety; but he could not say whether the +two layers had their stems parallel or crosswise. Kukui-nut oil was +used plentifully to act as a binder and to give a slick surface. The +"sliders," as well as he could remember the description of them, were +like sleds with runners; not flat boards like a toboggan. Small +depressions here and there, either basin-shaped or well-shaped, have +led to excavations in the hope of finding something; but they are due +only to falling-in of tubes, tunnels, or bubbles in the lava. + +A somewhat similar but very much smaller slide is said to be on the +coast 40 miles south of this one. At present it can be reached only +from the shore, making a canoe voyage necessary. + +Two ruined and overgrown heiaus are near the water line a mile from +the slide. Both are built on bare lava, and at very high tides waves +dash over them. Possibly the shore has sunk since they were built. +Near by, on the flat lava, covered by every tide, are rock carvings +rudely resembling the outlines of human figures. They must be of +rather recent origin, as the stone is constantly subject to wear by +the shingle. Stokes has copied them. + + +MOOKINI + +At the extreme northwest corner of the island of Hawaii is a heiau in +excellent preservation, there being but few fallen stones. The ground +around is entirely free of growth except for grass and a few weeds, +which may explain its appearance of newness; it has a very modern +aspect, though it seems to antedate the discovery. It measures 120 by +275 feet, longest east and west. The east wall is 11 feet high with a +narrow terrace from end to end about midway the height. The north wall +is 18 feet high. The south wall, which is in a somewhat irregular +line, is 5 to 6 feet high. On the outside of the south wall, which +forms one side of each, are two inclosures. One, near the east corner, +measures 65 feet east and west and 15 feet wide, with its west wall at +the edge of an opening which gives access to the interior of the +heiau. The wall of this inclosure is 4 feet high. The other inclosure +measures 21 feet east and west by 28 feet north and south, the west +end flush with the west end of the temple. Its wall is 3 feet high. + +The main west wall is 12 feet high. A platform 2 to 4 feet wide, +probably a seat or bench, extends along the inside of the south wall. +An interior wall 4 feet high, not straight but approximately parallel +with the north wall, with a space 10 to 15 feet wide separating them, +has one end against the east wall, the other end coming near enough to +the west wall to leave only a narrow passageway. + +The entire space inside is paved with large stones; on these, as a +floor, are several walls whose purpose is not clear; they run in +various directions. Near the west end are some small inclosures, also +a raised platform in which are 13 "wells," said to be intended to +"hold the blood of those offered up as a sacrifice." Possibly the +bodies or bones of victims were placed in them, though it is more +probable that they held posts or idols. + +On the outside, 20 feet from the west wall, is a "sacrifice stone," 6 +by 8 feet, averaging 15 inches thick. It is somewhat dished, with a +natural depression 12 inches deep. + +The heiau is about 200 yards from the ocean. Walls, like fallen +fences, extend diagonally from the corners at the west end; the +northern one terminates 200 yards away on an outcrop of lava; the +southern one has about the same length and ends 50 feet from a similar +wall that reaches in a rude semicircle, convex uphill, for 300 yards +to the top of a cliff over the ocean. On the opposite side of a small +cove within the farther end of this wall is a stone which is known to +the natives as the "Shark" or the "Shark God." It is 81/2 feet long, 32 +inches across at the widest part, averages 14 inches thick, and has +somewhat the shape of a coffin with narrowed ends. Lying just on the +break of the slope, it inclines slightly down the bank. The end toward +the water is carved in a fairly good representation of a turtle's +head; on the opposite end are nine artificial cup-like depressions +from 11/2 to 3 inches in diameter with a depth rather less than half the +width; three are on top, three on the end, three on the lower side. +Like any long stone supported at the center with the ends free, it +gives a metallic note when struck with a knife or other small piece +of metal. It is already defaced by curious experimenters, and will +probably be broken up some day in search of the "treasure" inside, or +to "see where the music comes from." + +For nearly a mile south of the heiau, covering the space between the +ocean cliff and a line approximately parallel to it a fourth of a mile +up the hill, are many inclosures and long walls. Low walls surround +spaces 10 to 15 feet across, filled level with earth, which are either +house sites or burial places. Some inclosures, still smaller, with no +break in the wall, are supposed to be graves; and graves may also be +marked by the many small piles of stones. Other stone heaps, some +straight, some crescent-shaped, from 10 to 20 feet long, all the +curved ones convex to the windward, were wind shelters. Some of them +are known to be made by modern hunters as blinds in plover shooting. + +In at least two places are long parallel rows of large stones placed +singly, 1 foot to 3 feet apart, the rows separated by a space of from +4 to 6 feet. One set has a dozen or more rows. + +Inside of one of the inclosures, directly up the hill from the old +landing, is a large stone with an artificial depression of 2 gallons +capacity. It was intended as a mortar for pounding nuts. + + +LAUPAHOEHOE + +An old lava flow has pushed out into the ocean in a shape somewhat +resembling "a leaf floating on the water," which is the meaning of the +word. It forms a nearly level area of 12 or 13 acres, only a few feet +above tide. Toward the outer end are numerous walls and inclosures, +mostly in ruins and overgrown with trees and bushes. Some of them are +clearly modern; others are ancient. Near the lighthouse are the +remnants of a heiau; only a part of its walls can be traced. + +A wall 3 feet high, beginning at a large stone at one corner, incloses +a space 26 by 27 feet, outside measurement; the interior is filled +with earth and small stones to a level with the top of the walls. At +the end toward the ocean, is a platform 20 feet wide, terminating 50 +feet from the sea. On this platform is a space 7 by 12 feet, outlined +by large rocks. Halfway between the platform and the water is a wall +which may be recent. + +Near this inclosure is one hexagonal in outline, the walls 2 feet +high, and the space inside, 11 by 17 feet, filled with earth to a foot +above the top of the wall. + +On top of the bluff, 350 feet above tide level, is a heiau the west +wall of which was removed in making a deep cut for the railway. The +inside dimensions are 70 feet east and west, 115 feet north and south. +The interior area, originally irregular, was somewhat leveled, and +covered with a pavement of cobblestones which were carried up from the +beach, as were many of the large stones in the wall. The pavement has +been torn up in cultivating the ground. The wall is from 4 to 6 feet +high inside. This is a little more than the original height, as it was +repaired and raised for use as a corral. Along the outside of the +north wall, at the west end, is a heavy wall which, with the main +wall, forms a "well," nearly filled with rocks. There are no +supporting platforms outside, but along the north and east walls are +revetments reaching halfway up the face. The southeast corner is +rounded and braced or buttressed. These forms of support have been +noticed in only one other place. There is a house site within, at the +northeast corner. On the wall, placed there in adding to its height, +were a broken taro pestle and a very dense siliceous rock, of high +specific gravity, and filled with olivines. It weighs about 75 pounds. +The ends have been chipped off to give it an ellipsoidal form, +otherwise the wave-worn surface is unworked, except that one of its +larger faces is rubbed smooth, almost polished, by use as a grinding +stone, for which purpose it is excellently adapted by reason of its +unusual abrasive quality. + + * * * + + +MAUI ISLAND + +There are not many aboriginal structures on Maui, but among those +which can be found are some of extreme interest on account of their +size and complicated arrangement. + + +KAUPO, OR MOKULAU + +A mile and a half from the coast at Kaupo, or Mokulau landing, at the +eastern end of the island, are two large heiaus. As it would have +required a week's time and a considerable outlay of money to reach +them, by reason of the distance and lack of roads, they were not +visited. + + +WAILUKU + +At the mouth of the Iao Valley, a mile north of Wailuku, is a sand +dune having a nearly level area of about an acre at each end, +connected by a curved ridge whose sharp crest is lowered about 20 feet +by erosion. On each extremity is a stone inclosure, with several walls +on the slopes below them except on the eastern side, toward the ocean. +Here a stream has encroached upon the bottom of the dune to such an +extent that only a portion of the inclosure nearer town is still +remaining, one side and part of each end having fallen into the +ravine. The wall along the opposite, or western, side is buried in the +sand, only the highest stones still projecting. From the north wall a +facing of large stones extending down the surface of the dune for a +vertical distance of 15 feet has prevented erosion by the winds. No +protection was necessary below this point as the action of rain water +on the lime from disintegrated coral rock contained in the deposit has +caused the sand to "set" or harden. + +The other heiau, at the north end of the dune, is apparently +unfinished. None of it has disappeared, but the plan is difficult to +make out. At its northern end is a protecting layer of stones reaching +25 to 30 feet down the slope, in three separate terraces. Similar +terraces are on the slope below the southern end of the east wall. +Here and there within the structure are well-like spaces filled with +stones. The purpose of these is unknown. Stones of varying sizes, +mostly small, within the walls indicate a pavement or floor, but the +dense growth of lantana brush and the accumulated sand preclude any +careful examination or accurate description of these remains. + + +WAIHEE + +Southward from the mouth of the Waihee Valley, 5 miles north of +Wailuku, is a range of sand dunes from 200 to 300 feet high, extending +for half a mile or more in a wide curve, with the concave side facing +the ocean. The level space thus bounded is about a fourth of a mile in +its greatest width and contains 50 or 60 acres. Approximately parallel +with the windings of the shore line, at an average distance of 200 +feet from it, is a strong stone wall, built at an unknown date but +prior to the advent of the whites. The plain purpose of this wall was +to protect from high tides the low land lying behind it and reaching +nearly to the foot of the dunes. This area is now cultivated in a +variety of crops, mainly rice. Formerly it was a great taro patch of a +Hawaiian settlement. A modern flume, which follows closely the line of +an ancient ditch, brings down the necessary water from Waihee Creek. + +In front of the wall a space of 5 or 6 acres is covered with a stone +pavement on which are the walls of old houses and inclosures. They are +protected on the seaward side by thousands of cubic yards of +water-worn stones, piled up like a revetment or riprap, which +terminate abruptly at the southern end but extend to the mouth of the +creek at the north. The dunes show many angular rocks of the same +general material, in their lower portion, so they all probably belong +to a spur or projection from the mountain, washed clean at the front +by waves, and covered at the rear by the dunes. Some of the stones +along the water front were rolled by tides and wave-currents from the +debris carried down by the creek from the mountains. At high tides +waves surmount this natural breakwater, but spread out over the level +pavement and sink between the stones, so that dwellers upon the site +were not disturbed by their action. + +At its northern extremity the high wall connects with a rear corner of +an extensive heiau, which was either never completed or has been +partially demolished. The unfinished appearance of this, as of all +similar remains, is explained by the natives as being due to the +interrupted efforts at their construction by "the little people" +(fairies), thousands of whom took part in the work. They must complete +their task in one night; at the first gleam of dawn they must +instantly disappear, leaving their work as it was at the moment, and +could never gather at that spot again. + +The highest part of the heiau wall still upright is about 10 feet; but +some of the stones within, promiscuously heaped, are 2 to 3 feet +higher. The structure is about 100 by 250 feet, longest on the line +from water to hill. A cross wall, possibly somewhat modified in recent +times, divides it into two unequal parts, the seaward portion being +nearly square and 5 feet higher than the part at the rear. On the +latter are small inclosures of stone, the space within them paved with +gravel. If of the same age as the remainder of the structure they may +have been for priestly seclusion or preparation, though they may be +houses of later natives who took advantage of the foundation made by +their ancestors. + +Measurements or clear descriptions of these remains are not possible, +owing to overgrowth. A satisfactory study, to distinguish between +ancient and modern parts, or between undisturbed stones and those not +in their original position, would require careful survey with transit +and level after the brush is cleared away; and this must be followed +up with considerable excavation as well as removal of loose rock; all +of which would demand the labor of a dozen men for three months. Even +at that, there is no certainty that definite knowledge would be +gained; but it is not to be had in any other way. + + +BURIAL PLACES + +Near the top of a remnant of a crater rising from the shore line of +the ocean, 11 miles from Wailuku on the road to Kahakuloa, is a stone +wall built on the leeward slope, the only place on which it could be +constructed, as much the larger part of the crater has been blown out +into the sea. Between the wall and the summit are at least a dozen +stone-covered graves; possibly there are others not seen, as much of +the brush is impenetrable. Some of them are sunken; others appear +quite recent. + +Many such graves are found on the dunes. They are all modern, some of +them still surrounded by the original wooden fences. + + +IN THE IAO VALLEY + +The deepest valley on Maui is that of the Iao River. The sides, nearly +vertical in places, have an elevation of about 3,000 feet. About 2 +miles above the town of Wailuku, well within the mountain, are walls +made of stones of varying sizes up to half a ton or more. They extend +over several acres of land and their structure is quite complicated. +Mostly, they are borders of taro patches, though some of them mark +house sites or garden inclosures. One wall, supporting a terrace, is 8 +to 10 feet high and contains very heavy stones. + +Near the head of the Iao Valley there are fully 40 acres of taro beds. +A trail formerly led from this spot to the south shore of the island, +near Lahaina. It can not now be traced, being obliterated by slides. + +Residents of Wailuku say these places were in use only 50 or 60 years +ago. + +Many evidences of former occupation have been destroyed in operating +the extensive sugar plantations. + + * * * + + +KAUAI ISLAND + +There seems to be less evidence of Hawaiian occupancy on Kauai than on +any other of the five principal islands. Comparatively few heiaus are +reported. Some of those which were in existence when the whites came +have been destroyed or defaced to such a degree in establishing sugar +plantations that their original form is uncertain; while others are so +covered with vegetation, either natural or due to cultivation, that +nothing definite can be ascertained as to their size or structure. + +The site which might be considered as possessing the greatest interest +is an aboriginal quarry and workshop where material for stone +implements was obtained and shaped into desired forms. There can be no +doubt as to the existence of such a place; but no one now knows its +location, unless it be some of the older Hawaiians, who, however, +profess entire ignorance in regard to it. Mr. William H. Rice, of +Lihue, once induced some natives to conduct him to the spot. He +believes that if he alone had gone his guides would have fulfilled +their promise; but unfortunately several other men joined him, and the +natives, either suspicious of their intentions, or not wishing the +premises to become publicly known, pursued a devious and wearisome +journey through the jungle, crossing gulches and clambering up and +down cliffs until the white men were thoroughly bewildered and +exhausted; then announced that they "couldn't find it," and led the +party home. + + +LIHUE + +At Niumahu, 2 miles from Lihue, on the road leading south and west +from the harbor of Nawiliwili, is a fish pond known as Alakoka. It is +a short distance above the mouth of the river, where the little valley +widens in a half-moon shape, the stream flowing close to the bluff on +the right. The bottom land on the other side is so low as to be +swampy. Along the river bank on this side is a heavy wall of stone and +earth, reaching the higher land at each end, thus forming a pond of 15 +or 20 acres in which the ancient Hawaiians kept their surplus catch of +fish. The wall has been raised and strengthened by its present owner, +a Chinese, who raises ducks instead of fish. + + +WAILUA + +Near the mouth of the Wailua River, 6 miles from Lihue, is the former +abode of the royal family. The place is so overgrown, except in the +few cultivated spots, that no examination of it can be made. No traces +of the residences are apparent, although the stone boundary walls of +the grounds are still standing. The site of the royal cemetery is set +aside as public property. There is nothing now to indicate that any +interments were ever made in it. The "Birthstone," on or by which all +prospective heirs to the throne must be born in order to insure their +right to the succession, still lies in the brush near the foot of a +little cliff. In case of a dispute among the claimants to the throne +this stone had the power, by some means of which the knowledge has now +been lost, to determine which, if any, of the contestants was entitled +to possession. + +The "Sacrifice Stone," also, is in its original place, being so large +that it can not be easily removed. Formerly this had a grass roof over +it, supported by high poles. When the victim's life was extinct his +body was suspended to a rafter or crossbeam at the top of the +structure and left there until the flesh had decayed. The bones were +then interred on top of the bluff in the rear. It is said that the +corpses of chiefs and others of high rank were wrapped in banana +leaves and steamed until the flesh fell away. The skeletons were then +buried. + +A mile from the mouth of the Wailua River, on a narrow plateau between +it and a small tributary, the summit level being about 200 feet above +the water, is a heiau in fairly good condition. It is one of the large +structures of its kind, but is so overgrown that measurements or close +description are not possible. It is supposed to be the one which was +sacred to the devotions of the highest priesthood. The common people +were not allowed to venture near it, and even the king could not visit +it without special permission involving the most complicated +ceremonies. It has passed into possession of the county and will be +restored as nearly as can be to its pristine state and thus preserved. + +On a mass of loose rocks, resulting from disintegration of an old lava +flow, projecting into the ocean half a mile east from the mouth of the +Wailua River, and near the race track, is a heiau of irregular +construction. The extreme measurements are 80 feet north and south by +200 feet east and west. The wall on the side toward the sea is higher +and wider along the central half than it is nearer the ends. Small +inclosures, bounded by single rows of stones, probably mark the sites +of houses for priests and attendants. Along the inner side of the wall +next to the water are four depressions, remains of partially filled +well-like or cistern-like excavations; similar hollows, obscured by +brush, are also next to the inner foot of the opposite wall. A large +rock in the form of a triangular prism, standing upright, with one end +firmly imbedded in the ground, was no doubt a "god" of some kind; it +has a slight hollow or "cup" pecked in the flat top. There are several +irregular rows of stones outside of the inclosure. Dense growth +prevents the examination necessary for a closer description. + + +DUNE BURIALS + +Four miles east of Lihue a spur of the plantation railway was run into +the dunes to procure sand for making fills. In the course of this work +human bones were found, the remains of one individual in one spot and +of at least two others not far away. None of these bones seemed to +have been long underground. Search in the vicinity, over bare spots +among the ridges whose upper portions have been carried away by the +winds, revealed indications of burials in at least six other places. +Such bones as were found were decayed or in fragments. Among them was +part of the skull of a very young infant. A quantity of cooking +stones, some coral rasps or files, and a much weathered fragment of a +wooden bowl, denoted that camps had been made on the dunes. As the +beach is smooth, firm, and extensive, providing an excellent place for +landing canoes or dragging seines, these remains probably pertain to +parties or families who maintained fishing camps here. + +At the mouth of the Wailua River, on the east side, was a "City of +Refuge." It is now partially destroyed, many of the stones having been +taken away to make a fill in the road. It was rectangular in form, 360 +feet east and west, 60 feet north and south, made of large stones, +some of them weighing a ton or even more. The eastern portion of the +interior is artificially made a foot higher than the western. The +structure is 300 feet from the water. Midway down the gentle slope in +front, opposite the western end, is a slightly crooked row, 100 feet +long, of very large stones. A similar row is near the water on the +side between the inclosure and the river. + + +WAIMEA + +There were formerly several heiaus within a few miles of Waimea. Some +of them have been destroyed by cultivation, while others are difficult +to find and impossible to examine in the cane fields or dense brush. + +At the east foot of a rocky peak 13 miles by road from Waimea, at an +elevation of more than 3,600 feet, is a small heiau almost on the +brink of the canyon. Within the walls it is 30 feet across each way. +On the south line are three large stones in line, one at each corner, +the third about midway between them. No doubt their position +determined the location of the structure. It stands on a slight slope. +The west wall is 2 feet high inside, the earth having washed down +level with its top outside. The north wall is a foot higher than the +floor at the west end, and is completely buried at the east, as are +the south and west walls along their entire length except for a +protruding stone here and there. In fact, the whole interior seems to +have received a heavy deposit of earth, carried in from the outside by +wind and rain. All these features give an appearance of antiquity to +the ruin. + +Directly below it, well toward the bottom of the canyon, which is said +to be 3,000 feet deep, is a long, narrow, curved ridge with rounded +top and almost vertical sides. The upper part, apparently an old lava +flow, is darker in color than the surrounding precipices, its surface +checkered and seamed by weathering and erosion, so that it has an +almost startling resemblance to a huge serpent crawling out of the +side of the mountain and, with head laid flat on the extreme point of +the cliff, watching something in the stream bed a thousand feet below. +If the old Hawaiians had been familiar with ophidians, as were the +American Indians, this "Snake God" would no doubt have held high rank +among their divinities. + + +CONCLUSIONS + +As intimated above, much additional information regarding antiquities +in the Hawaiian Islands can be found in publications of the Bishop +Museum in Honolulu. Descriptions, with illustrations, of a number of +heiaus are given by Mr. Thrum in the "Hawaiian Annual" for 1906 to +1910, inclusive; and his forthcoming volume will completely cover this +branch of archeology. The Bishop Museum has undertaken to make a +complete survey and report of all the ancient remains, while Dr. +Brigham has almost finished for publication an exhaustive treatise +which will include all his observations and deductions along the same +lines. With these tasks ended, there will be nothing for anyone else +to do, except to take measures for the restoration and care of the +principal structures. + +All the aboriginal remains on the islands are the work of the present +Hawaiian race. When the earliest of these people came here they found +the islands without inhabitants. There are no evidences of any +prehistoric population nor any indications whatever of underground +remains. Consequently, so far as can be ascertained, excavations would +not result in the discovery of any prehistoric objects or of anything +essentially different from what can be seen on the surface or found +slightly covered by very recent natural accumulation. At the same +time, all the remains are well worthy of study and preservation. These +conclusions meet the full approval and indorsement of both Mr. Thrum +and Dr. Brigham. + + + + +INDEX + + + Page. + +ACCOUNT'S CAVES 131 + +ADAIR, quoted on construction of houses 170 + +ADZES-- + chert, from Miller's Cave 79 + stone, in Molokai 177 + +AKERS POST OFFICE, cave in vicinity of 18 + +ALABAMA, explorations in 133-150 + +ALABASTER-- + from Wyandotte Cave 108-109 + _See_ Stalagmite; Travertine. + +ALFORD'S CAVE 140 + +ALLEN, VALENTINE, acknowledgment to 29 + +ALTARS, SUPPOSED SACRIFICIAL, origin of 172 + _See_ SACRIFICIAL STONES. + +ALTON, house mounds near 161 + +ANIMALS-- + bones of, found in cave 33 + of Molokai 176 + +ANTLER, OBJECTS OF, from Sell Cave 48 + +ARKANSAS COUNTY, ARK., excavation of mound in 170 + +ARKLOW CAVE 125 + +ARLINGTON-- + cairns in vicinity of 40 + caves in vicinity of 34, 35 + +ARMSTRONG, B.G., tradition investigated by 172 + +ARNHOLDT CAVE 90 + +ARROWHEADS discovered in caves 31, 39 + +ASH CAVE 89 + +ASHES-- + beds of, in caves 31, 32, 33, 38 + curious cavities in 67-68 + deposit of, in Miller's Cave 65-66 + +ASHLEY CREEK, cave on 19 + +AWLS-- + bone, in Miller's Cave 74 + from Goat Bluff Cave 37 + +AXES-- + from Miller's Cave 78 + grooved, found in cave 39, 40 + +AZTALAN, WIS., theory concerning wall at 172 + + +BAGNELL HILL, cave on 94 + +BAILEY'S CAVE 140 + +BAKER'S LAKE, cave on 89 + +"BALLROOM" of Bates Cave 23 + +BARNARD CAVE 140-141 + +BARREN COUNTY, KY., explorations in 119 + +BAT CAVE-- + in Colbert County 134 + in Shannon County 18 + near Crocker 55 + on the Osage River 95 + +BATES CAVE 22-23 + +BATTLE GROUND near Miller's Cave 59 + +BEADS-- + columella, from cairn 87 + shell, found in cairn 28 + stone, in cave 31 + +BEAR CREEK, rock house on 118 + +BECKER, PHILIP, examination of cave refuse by 84 + +"BECKWITH'S FORT," mounds near 169 + +BEDFORD, caves in vicinity of 103, 104 + +BEER CAVE, popular name for Steuffer Cave 99 + +BELCHER CAVE 121 + +BELL, ROBERT A., cave on farm of 51 + +BELL'S CAVE 122 + +BEN SMITH'S CAVE 119 + +BERRY, GEORGE, cave on land of 43 + +BIG CREEK CAVE 18 + +BIG-MOUTH CAVE 138 + +BIG PINEY-- + caves in vicinity of 57, 81 + house mounds on 162 + +BIG PINEY POST OFFICE, cave in vicinity of 56 + +BIRTHSTONE of Kauai Island 192 + +BISHOP MUSEUM, value of, to students 174 + +BLATCHLEY, W.S.-- + caverns described by 102 + quoted 103-104, 107, 110 + +BLEDSOE COUNTY, TENN., cave in 128 + +BLOODLAND, house mounds near 57 + +BLOWING CAVE 136 + +BLUE RIVER, caves on 111 + +BLUE SPRING CAVE 18 + +BLUEWATER CAVE 134 + +BLUFF CITY, caves in vicinity of 124, 125 + +BODE CAVE 94 + +BOILING SPRING OF THE GASCONADE, cave near 34 + +BOND, JOHN R., cave on farm of 92 + +BONE CAVE 120 + +BONES, ANIMAL, in caves 33, 37, 72, 73 + +BONES, HUMAN-- + in Bell's Cave 51 + in cairn at Devil's Elbow 86-87 + in cairns on Helm's farm 88 + in Caldwell's Cave 132 + in cave on Meshach Creek 121 + in Colyer's Cave 133 + in Cub Run Cave 113 + in dune burials 193 + in Goat Bluff Cave 36, 37, 38, 39 + in Gourd Creek Cave 34 + in Haunted Cave 116 + in Hawaiian caves 182 + in Miller's Cave 67, 69-72, 73, 76 + in mound 151 + in Ramsey's Cave 82 + in Sell Cave 47-49 + _See_ Skeletons; Skulls. + +BOWLING GREEN, caves near 118 + +BRADLEY CAVE 112 + +BRANDON, cave near 138 + +BRIDAL CAVE, beauty of 90 + +BRIGGS, CAPT. J.B., cave owned by 117 + +BRIGGS, IKE, cave on land of 116 + +BRIGGS'S CAVE 116 + +BRIGHAM, DR., work of 174, 194 + +BROOKS CAVE 56 + +BRUMLEY, cave in vicinity of 91 + +BRYANT'S BLUFF, rock shelters in 40 + +BUCHER CAVE 51 + +BUCKNER CAVE. _See_ Harry Buckner Cave; Joel Buckner Cave. + +BUFFALO WALLOWS, so-called 152 + +BUNCH CAVE 90 + +BURIAL CAVE near Sheffields 135 + +BURIAL CUSTOMS in Hawaii 192 + +BURIAL PLACES on Maui Island 190 + +BURIALS-- + communal 151, 153, 157 + dune 193-194 + in Goat Bluff Cave 36 + in Gourd Creek Cave 30 + inclosed in flat stones 88 + on Lost Hill 27 + _See_ Cairns; Graves. + +BURKSVILLE, cave near 111 + +BUSHNELL, D.I., JR.-- + conclusion of, regarding house mounds 164 + quoted on house mounds 161 + + +CAIRNS-- + at Miller's Cave 59 + at Sugar Tree camp 40 + containing double burial 19 + in vicinity of Eugene, Mo. 96 + near Pillman's Cave 83 + near Woodland Cave 84 + of common occurrence 17 + on Helm's farm 87-89 + on Lost Hill 24-28, 84 + on the Gasconade 40, 99 + _See_ Burials; Graves. + +CALDWELL'S CAVE 131-132 + +CAMDEN COUNTY, MO.-- + explorations in 89-91 + geological formations in 91 + +CAMERON, WILLIAM, tradition obtained by 172 + +CAMP-GROUND CAVE 51 + +CANNIBAL HOUSE, so-called, near Omaha 156 + +CANNIBALISM, discoveries indicating 77 + +CAVE, meaning of term, in Hawaii 182 + +CAVE EARTH, composition of 16 + +CAVE EXPLORATION, conditions considered in 101 + +CAVE MAN, no trace of, in Ozark Hills 15 + +CAVES. _See_ CAVERNS. + +CAVERNS-- + air of 14-15 + as habitations 14 + development of 13-14 + floors of 14 + method of measuring 17 + proper examination of 16 + +CAVITIES IN ASH-BED 67-68, 73 + +CEDAR GROVE, cave in vicinity of 18 + +CHATTANOOGA, caves in vicinity of 132 + +CHAUMONT STATION, cave near 117 + +CHEATHAM'S FERRY, cave near 134 + +CHIPPEWAS, Sioux driven westward by 172 + +CHUNKEY STONES in Molokai 177, 180 + +CITY OF REFUGE-- + at mouth of Wailua River 193 + wall of 184 + +CIVIL WAR, caves as shelters during 23 + +CLARKSVILLE, cave in vicinity of 123 + +CLEMMENS CREEK CAVE 89 + +COAHOMA COUNTY, MISS., large mound in 171 + +COAL PIT HOLLOW, mention of 24 + +COFFEE CAVE 134 + +COKELY CAVE 90 + +COLBERT COUNTY, ALA., caves of 134, 135 + +COLE COUNTY, MO., explorations in 100 + +COLLEGE CAVE 128 + +COLLINSVILLE, cave in vicinity of 139 + +COLOSSAL CAVE 115 + +COLYER'S CAVE 133 + +COMMUNAL BURIAL. _See_ Burials, communal. + +COOK, CAPTAIN, death of 184 + +COOKE, GEORGE, acknowledgment to 175 + +COOKING, method of, in Molokai 179 + +COOKVILLE, caves in vicinity of 42 + +CRAWFORD COUNTY, IND., explorations in 107 + +CRITTENDEN COUNTY, ARK., mound excavations in 169 + +CRUMP'S CAVE 118 + +CUB RUN CAVE 113-115 + +CULVER'S CAVE 136 + +CURRENT RIVER, caves of 18 + + +DAERHOFF, BEN, cave on farm of 95 + +DALLAS COUNTY, MO., house mounds in 161 + +DANCING PLATFORMS in Molokai 181-182 + +DAVIS, J.W., caves on farm of 42 + +DAYLIGHT IN CAVES, use of term 16 + +DEKALB COUNTY, ALA., caves of 137-139 + +DENT COUNTY, MO., caves of 20-22 + +DEVIL'S ELBOW-- + burials at 88 + house mounds at 162 + walled graves at 84 + +DILLON, house mounds near 42, 162 + +DINSMORE, DR. R.S., excavations made by 153-154 + +DISCOIDS, STONE, in Molokai 177 + +DIXON, cave in vicinity of 89 + +DIXON'S CAVE 116 + +DONNEHUE'S CAVE 103 + +DONNELSON'S CAVE 103-106 + +DOUBLE CAVE 54-55 + +DRIP ROCK-- + deposits of, in Berry Cave 43 + meaning of the term 16 + _See_ Stalactite; Stalagmite. + +DRY CAVE 90 + +DRY CREEK, cave on 56 + +DRY FORK POST OFFICE, caves near 119 + +DUNBAR'S CAVE 123-124 + +DUNES, BURIALS IN 193 + +DUNLAP, caves in vicinity of 128-129 + + +EDENVILLE ROAD, cave on 57 + +EDGAR SPRINGS, cave in vicinity of 23 + +EDMONSON COUNTY, KY., caves of 115-118 + +EIDSON, WILL ROBERT, cairns on farm of 90 + +EIGENMANN, PROFESSOR, conclusions of 105 + +ELDON, cave in vicinity of 96 + +ELLIS CAVE 138 + +EMINENCE, supposed cave near 20 + +ESMITH CAVES 119-120 + +EUGENE, graves in vicinity of 96 + + +FARMINGTON, mounds near 162, 166 + +FEARIN CAVE 139 + +FERGUSON, MO.-- + excavation of mound near 168 + house mounds near 161 + +FISH, eyeless 18 + +FISHING CAVE 18 + +FISHPONDS-- + at Niumahu 192 + of Molokai 175 + +FLINTWORKING SITE 59 + +FOOD SUPPLY of Molokai 175 + +FOOTE, A.L., cave on land of 44 + +FORD'S CAVE 119 + +FORT DEPOSIT CAVE-- + cross sections of 144-149 + description of 143-150 + +FORT PAYNE CAVE 137-138 + +FORTIFICATION, INDIAN, near Miller's Cave 59 + +FOSSIL CAVE-- 91 + plan of 92 + section of 92 + +FRANKLIN COUNTY, TENN., caves of 131 + +FREEBURG, caves in vicinity of 97, 99 + +FREEMAN'S CAVE 81-83 + +FRENCH LICK SPRINGS, cavern near 107 + + +GAME played in Molokai 177 + +GARVIN CAVE 112 + +GASCONADE RIVER, caves on 96, 97, 98, 99 + +GASCONDY, cave in vicinity of 98 + +GILDER'S DISCOVERY 157 + +GILL, DE LANCEY-- + observations of 48 + theory of 17 + +GLAIZE CREEK, cave near 91 + +GLASS FRAGMENT, from Goat Bluff Cave 37 + +GLOVER, ROBERT, cave on farm of 122 + +GOAT BLUFF CAVE, description of 35-39 + +GODS, STONE 186, 193 + +GOLD IN CAVES, beliefs concerning 21, 30 + +GORDON, tradition related by 173 + +GOUGE, from Miller's Cave 79 + +GOURD CREEK-- + cairns at mouth of 24-25 + village site on 34 + +GOURD CREEK CAVE-- + description of 29 + exploration of 28-34 + +GRAHAM CAVE 83 + +GRANITE MOUNTAIN, mounds near 168 + +GRAVEL in caves 16 + +GRAVES-- + cist, at Iowa Point 152 + near Bell's Cave 123 + near McKennan's 52 + of Molokai 178 + on Laughlin's ranch 44 + on Saline Creek 95 + walled, at Devil's Elbow 84-87 + _See_ Cairns; Burials. + +"GREAT TEMPLE" of Hawaii 183-184 + +GREEN RIVER, rock shelters on 118 + +GREGORY, PROFESSOR-- + mention of 175 + work of 174 + +"GROUND HOUSE INDIANS," mounds made by 172 + +GROUND HOUSE RIVER, probable origin of name 173 + +GRUNDY COUNTY, TENN., caves of 130 + +GULFS, formation of 108 + +GULFS OF LOST RIVER 107 + +GUMBO for making vessels 69 + +GUNTERSVILLE, caves in vicinity of 139, 140 + +GUTHOERL, PETER-- + cave on farm of 20 + mounds on farm of 22 + + +HA-HA-TON-KA, caves in vicinity of 89 + +HAMILTON COUNTY, TENN., caves of 132 + +HAMMERS found in cave 39 + +HARDIN COUNTY, KY., caves of 112 + +HARDIN'S CAVE 139-140 + +HARLOW CAVE 112 + +HARRISON COUNTY, IND., explorations in 111 + +HARRISON'S CAVE 136 + +HARRY BUCKNER CAVE 113 + +HART COUNTY, KY., explorations in 112 + +HAUNTED CAVE 116 + +HAWAII, archeological work in 174-195 + +HEIAUS-- + at Kaupo 188 + at Napoopoo 184 + described by Mr. Thrum 194 + of Hawaii Island 185-187 + of Wailua 192-193 + of Waimea 194 + on Maui Island 190 + on Mauna Loa 178-180 + sacred to priesthood 192 + +HELM, DANIEL, cairns on farm of 87 + +HENSON'S CAVE 129 + +HILO, archeological work in vicinity of 182 + +HIXSON'S CAVE 129 + +HOLMES, W.H., suggestion made by 15 + +HOLSTON RIVER, cave on 125 + +HONAUNAU, work of Stokes at 184-185 + +HONEY LANDING, cave at 139 + +HOPKINS, ISAAC, mounds on farm of 166-167 + +HOUSE MOUNDS-- + defined 17 + in Dent County 22 + in Miller County 96 + in St. Francois County, Mo., plan of 168 + near Dillon 42 + near Ranch House 56-57 + near Rolla 41 + near St. James 42 + near Stover 100 + of the lower Mississippi Valley 161 + on Brush Creek 99 + theories concerning origin of 163-165 + _See_ Village sites. + +HOUSE SITES. _See_ Heiaus. + +HOWE, NEBR., excavations near 155 + +HRDLI[VC]KA, DR. ALE[VS], reference to 158 + +HUBLIN'S CAVE 130 + +HUGHES, SAM P., work of 155-156 + +HUNTER, A.B., mounds on farm of 166 + +HURRICANE BLUFF CAVE 97 + +HUT RINGS-- + at Beckwith's Fort 170 + similar to ruins of Mandan houses 171 + +HUTCHINS CAVE 112 + +HUTCHINSON, HARRISON, cave on farm of 97 + + +IAO VALLEY, remains in 191 + +ILLINOIS, explorations in 111 + +IMPLEMENTS-- + found in cave 113 + found in Molokai 177 + found near cemeteries 123 + from Sell Cave 46 + +INDIAN FORD CAVE 96-97 + +INDIAN FORT, on the Osage River 99 + +INDIAN MOUND CAVE 124 + +INDIANA-- + cave region of 102 + explorations in 102-111 + +IOWA POINT, grave at 152 + +IRON MOUNTAIN, house mounds near 161 + +IRON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY, mounds along 167 + +IRVIN, GEORGE, cave on farm of 96 + +ISBOLL CAVES 135 + + +JACKSON, GENERAL, cave used by, as storage room 143 + +JACKSON COUNTY, ALA., caves of 135 + +JEROME, rock shelters in vicinity of 40 + +JOEL BUCKNER CAVE 113 + +JONES FARM, cave on 24 + +JURGGENMEYER, CONRAD, cave on farm of 94 + + +KAMEHAMEHA I, KING-- + "slide" made in time of 185 + temple built by 183 + +KANSAN DRIFT, skeletons reported found in 155 + +KAUAI ISLAND, investigations in 191-194 + +KENTUCKY, explorations in 112-123 + +KERR'S MILL, cave near 44 + +KEY, BUCK, cave on farm of 133 + +KEY ROCKS 24 + +KEY'S CAVE 133 + +KILAUEA, investigations near 183 + +KILLIAN CAVES 138-139 + +KNIVES-- + discovered in cave 31 + flint, found in cave 39 + found in cairn 27 + + +LACKAYE'S BLUFF CAVE 97 + +LAIRD'S CAVE 112 + +LAKEY'S CAVE 128-129 + +LAND COMPANY'S CAVE 129 + +LANE, GEORGE, mound on farm of 24 + +LANE'S CAVE 56 + +LAUDERDALE COUNTY, ALA., caves of 133-134 + +LAUGHLIN RANCH, cairns on 44 + +LAUPAHOEHOE, ruins at 187 + +LAWRENCE COUNTY, IND., explorations in 102-106 + +LEAVENWORTH, caves in vicinity of 111 + +LEWIS AND CLARK-- + mound mentioned by 152 + names of, carved on rock 153 + +LIBRARY OF BISHOP MUSEUM, contents of 174 + +LIHUE, fishpond near 192 + +LIMROCK, caves near 135, 136 + +LINN CREEK, cave formerly near 91 + +LINNVILLE CAVE 124 + +LITTLE-MOUTH CAVE 138 + +LITTLE PINEY-- + cave near 40 + cave on 23, 34 + mound on 24 + village site on 34 + +LITTLE WYANDOTTE CAVE 111 + +LOCK'S CAVE 112 + +LODGE SITES on Long's Hill 159-160 + +LOGAN COUNTY, KY., reconnoissance in 122 + +LONG'S HILL, the site of Gilder's discovery 157 + +LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN, Caves on west slope of 138 + +LOST HILL-- + cairn on 84 + described 25 + +LOVE'S CAVE 120 + +LUCAS, F.A., expert on animal bones 128 + +LUCKENHOFF, JOHN, cave on farm of 94 + + +MCCREARY CAVE 121 + +MCDERMENT'S CAVES 141-142 + +MCWILLIAMS FARM, cave on 42 + +MAMMAL CAVE 116 + +MAMMOTH CAVE, KY. 115 + caves near 115-117 + +MAMMOTH CAVE, MO., rumors of, not verified 20 + +MAMMOTH CAVE OF ILLINOIS 111 + +MARENGO CAVE 107 + +MARIES COUNTY, MO., explorations in 96-98 + +MARION COUNTY, TENN., caves of 131-132 + +MARSH, HENRY, cave on farm of 23 + +MARSHALL COUNTY, ALA., explorations in 139-150 + +MARTIN COUNTY, IND., caves of 106 + +MARTIN, LEWIS, cave on place of 113 + +MAUI ISLAND, aboriginal structures on 188-191 + +MAUNA KEA, quarry on 183 + +MAXEY'S CAVE, described 43 + +MERAMEC RIVER, house mounds on 161 + +MERAMEC VALLEY, relics seldom found in 22 + +MESHACH CREEK, caves on 121 + +MILL CAVE 106, 118, 121 + +MILLER, DANIEL S., cave on farm of 57 + +MILLER, WALTER, cave on farm of 54 + +MILLER COUNTY, MO., explorations in 91-96 + +MILLER'S CAVE-- + description of 57-81 + measurements of 61-62, 63 + plan of 62 + shells in 66-67 + +MILLTOWN, cave near 107 + +MILLTOWN CAVE, change in 108 + +MISSOURI RIVER, explorations along 151-160 + +MITCHELL, cave in vicinity of 104 + +MIX CAVE 53-54 + +MOAB, village site near 83 + +MOLOKAI-- + deforestation of 177 + former population of 175 + investigations in 175-182 + kind of stone found in 177 + +MONEY CAVE 21 + +MONROE COUNTY, ILL., explorations in 111 + +MONROE COUNTY, KY., explorations in 120-121 + +MONTAUK, cave in vicinity of 19 + +MONTEAGLE, caves in vicinity of 131 + +MONTGOMERY COUNTY, TENN., explorations in 123-124 + +MORGAN CAVE 90 + +MORGAN COUNTY, explorations in 100 + +MORRELL CAVE 125-128 + +MORTARS-- + found in caves 39, 74, 77, 78 + large stone used as 187 + +MOSQUITO CREEK, communal burial on 153 + +MOUNDS-- + mentioned by Lewis and Clark 152 + not found in Molokai 178 + _See_ House mounds; Lodge sites; Village sites. + +MUNFORDVILLE, KY., caves in vicinity of 112-113 + +MUNRO, JAMES, acknowledgment To 175 + +MURRELL'S CAVE 134 + + +NAPOOPOO, investigations at 184 + +NATIONAL MUSEUM, objects shipped to 81 + +NATURAL BRIDGE CAVE 100 + +"NEBRASKA MAN," theories regarding 157-158 + +NEMAHA RIVER, mound on, mentioned by Lewis and Clark 152 + +NEW MADRID COUNTY, MO., mounds of 166 + +NEWBURG, cave in vicinity of 41 + +NEWSOM SPRINGS, caves near 134 + +NIANGUA RIVER, caverns on 89 + +NICKAJACK, caves near 131 + +NICKAJACK CAVE 132 + +NILES, cave near 19 + +NORTHTOWN, cave in vicinity of 112 + + +OLAA, bones in caves near 182 + +OMAHA, investigations in vicinity of 156 + +ONYX CAVES 22, 34-35, 90 + +ORANGE COUNTY, IND., explorations in 106-107 + +ORANGEVILLE, caves in vicinity of 107 + +OSAGE COUNTY, MO., explorations in 98 + +OZARK REGION, explorations in 13-100 + + +PAGE, ROBERT, cave on land of 55 + +PALMER, DR. E.E., rock house on land of 120 + +PAOLI, caves in vicinity of 106 + +PAPILLION, NEBR., work near 156 + +PARIS, REV. MR., story of Captain Cook related to 184 + +PARK, WILLIAM-- + buffalo wallows examined by 152 + skeletons exhumed by 151 + +"PAVED TRAIL" in Molokai 176 + +PAWNEE VILLAGE SITE 153 + +PAYNE CAVE 119 + +PERFORATOR AND KNIFE from Wright Cave 93 + +PERFORATORS, BONE, in cave 31 + +PERU, NEBR., lodge sites near 156 + +PESTLE AND GRINDING STONE found at Laupahoehoe 188 + +PESTLES-- + found in caves 39, 74, 77, 78 + in Molokai 177 + +PETERS CREEK, caves on 119-120 + +PETROGLYPHS-- + near Miller's Cave 60-61 + on Gasconade River 89 + _See_ Pictographs. + +PHELPS, JAMES, cave on farm of 24 + +PHELPS COUNTY, MO.-- + caves of 22-42 + house mounds in 162 + +PHILLIPS CAVE 51 + +PICKETT'S CAVE 129 + +PICTOGRAPHS-- + reported near Paydown 97 + _See_ Petroglyphs. + +PILLMAN, JOHN, cave on land of 83 + +PIPES-- + fragment of, in cave 31 + from cairn 27 + from Miller's Cave 69, 80 + +PIQUET ORCHARDS, cave near 89 + +PLATTIN CREEK, house mounds on 161 + +POINSETT COUNTY, ARK., mounds in 171 + +POLISHING STONES. _See_ Rubbing stones. + +POOL HOLLOW, cave in 41 + +POT from Goat Bluff Cave 38-39 + +POTTERY-- + from Miller's Cave 77 + from Sell Cave 46-47 + of Gourd Creek Cave 31 + place where made 59 + unknown in Molokai 178 + +POYNER'S CAVE 116-117 + +PRIDE'S CAVE 134 + +PROCTOR'S CAVE 116 + +PULASKI COUNTY, MO.-- + caves of 42-89 + house mounds in 162 + + +QUARRIES-- + in Hawaii 183 + on Kauai Island 191 + + +RAILROAD CAVE 55 + +RAIN HEIAU of Molokai 180-181 + +RAMSEY'S CAVE 81-83 + +RANCH HOUSE, house mounds near 56 + +REFUSE, meaning of the term 16 + +RENAUD CAVE 23 + +RICE, WILLIAM H., investigations of 191 + +RICH FOUNTAIN, house mounds in vicinity of 99, 162 + +RICHLAND CAVE 52 + +RIDDLE CAVE 56 + +RIDEN, J.W., cave on farm of 22 + +RIDEN'S CAVE 57 + +RIVER CAVE 90, 98 + +ROARING SPRING, description of 58 + +ROBBERS' CAVE 90 + +ROCK LEDGES QUARRY, discovery at 102 + +ROCK SHELTERS 24 + defined 16-17 + in Bryant's Bluff 40 + of Colbert County, Ala. 134 + on Big Piney 89 + +ROLLA, house mounds near 41 + +ROLLA ROAD, house mounds on 22 + +ROLLINS, SAM T., cave on farm of 52-53 + +ROOF DUST, use of the term 16 + +ROSS, JOSEPH, cairns on farm of 85, 88 + +ROUBIDOUX CAVE 52 + +ROUBIDOUX CREEK, caves on 42, 43, 44, 45, 51, 52 + +ROWLETT CAVE 113 + +ROWLETT'S STATION, caves in vicinity of 112, 113 + +ROYAL FAMILY OF HAWAII, former abode of 192 + +RUBBING STONE from Sell Cave 48 + +RULO, NEBR., investigations near 154 + + +SACRIFICIAL ALTARS. _See_ Altars; Sacrificial stones. + +SACRIFICIAL STONES in Hawaiian Islands 181, 186, 192 + +ST. ELIZABETH, caves near 94-95 + +ST. FRANCIS COUNTY, ARK., house mounds in 170 + +ST. FRANCOIS COUNTY, MO., mounds of 166 + +ST. JAMES, house mounds near 42, 162 + +ST. JOHN'S BAYOU, mounds along 166 + +SALEM, MO.-- + caves in vicinity of 20 + house mounds near 22, 161 + +SALINE CREEK, grave on 95 + +SALT CAVE 115-116 + +SALTPETER-- + Hublin's Cave worked for 130 + made in Fearin Cave 139 + manufactured in Morrell Cave 126 + mining for, in Barnard Cave 140-141 + +SALTPETER CAVE-- + in Barren County, Ky. 119 + in Crawford County, Ind. 110-111 + in Dent County, Mo. 21 + in Hardin County, Ky. 112 + in Jackson County, Ala. 136 + in Marshall County, Ala. 140 + in Phelps County, Mo. 41 + in Pulaski County, Mo. 57 + in Texas County, Mo. 19-20 + +SCHORD, JOHN W., cave on farm of 56 + +SELL, DR. W.J., cave on farm of 45 + +SELL CAVE, described 45-51 + +SEQUATCHIE COLLEGE, cave near 128 + +SEQUATCHIE COUNTY, TENN., caves of 128 + +SEQUATCHIE RIVER, cave on 131 + +SERPENT, ridge in form of 194 + +SEWANEE, cave in vicinity of 131 + +SHANNON COUNTY, MO., caves of 18-19 + +SHARK GOD-- + stone known as 186 + tradition concerning 178 + +SHEFFIELDS, cave at 135 + +SHELL, objects of, from Miller's Cave 79 + +SHELL HEAPS in Colbert County, Ala. 135 + +SHELLMOUND, caves in vicinity of 131 + +SHELLS, accumulation of, in Miller's Cave 66 + +SHELTER CAVE, defined 16-17 + +SHILOAH CAVE 102 + +SHOAL CREEK, cave on 134 + +SHOALS, caves in vicinity of 106 + +SHORT BEND CAVE 20-21 + +SHORT BEND POST OFFICE, caves near 20, 21 + +SHORT BEND ROAD, house mounds on 22 + +SHORT CAVE 117-118 + +SINK HOLES near Onyx Cave 35 + +SINKERS, found in Molokai 178 + +SINKIN CREEK, caves near mouth of 18 + +SIOUX, driven westward by Chippewas 172 + +SKELETONS-- + communal burial of 151 + found near Rulo 154 + in mound in Crittenden County 169 + _See_ Bones, human; Skulls. + +SKIVERS, from Miller's Cave 79 + +SKULLS-- + found at Lost Hill 26, 27, 28 + petrified 154 + _See_ Bones, human; Skulls. + +SLABS, stone, used in vault 26-27 + +SLICK ROCK CAVE 120 + +"SLIDES" of Hawaii 185 + +SMITH, JAMES I., caves on land of 19 + +SMITH CAVES 19 + +SMITH'S CAVE. _See_ Ben Smith's Cave. + +SMITH'S GROVE, cave near 118 + +SMITHSONIA, cave at 133 + +SPEARHEADS discovered in cave 31 + +SPECIMENS FROM CAVES, where found 17 + +SPEERS CAVE 100 + +SPRING CREEK CAVE 83 + +SPRING CHEEK VALLEY, house mounds in 22 + +STALACTITES-- + abundant in Morrell Cave 125 + beauty of, in Bridal Cave 90 + _See_ Stalagmite. + +STALAGMITE-- + abundance of, in Morrell Cave 126 + in Killian Cave 139 + in Luckenhoff Cave 94 + in Onyx Cave 35 + masses of, in McDerment's Cave 142 + _See_ Alabaster; Drip rock; Onyx; Travertine. + +STANDING ROCK, near Linn Creek 91 + +STAR CAVE 107 + +STARK'S CAVE 96 + +STEFFY'S CAVE 113 + +STERNS, DR. FREDERICK H., work of 156 + +STEUFFER CAVE 99 + +STOKES, MR., work of 174 + +STOVER, house mounds near 100, 162 + +STRATMAN, HENRY L., cave on farm of 98 + +"STRAWHORN'S" HOLLOW, cave in 41 + +STUDENTS, journey through cave by 105-106 + +SUGAR TREE CAMP, cairns at 40 + +SULLIVAN COUNTY, TENN., explorations in 124-128 + + +TAVERN CREEK, cave on 95 + +TAYLOR MOUND 151 + +TEETH, deductions from wear of 48, 49 + +TEMPLE. _See_ Great Temple. + +TEMPLE HILL, cave near 119 + +TEMPLE SITE on Senator Cooke's ranch 176 + +TENNESSEE, explorations in 123-133 + +TENNESSEE RIVER, caves on 139 + +TERRELL LAND, cave on 18 + +TEXAS COUNTY, MO., caves of 19-20 + +THOBURN, J.B., conclusion of, regarding house mounds 164 + +THOMAS, DAVID, village site on farm of 83 + +THOMAS CAVE 118, 125 + +THRUM, THOMAS G., work of 174, 194 + +THUMB-SCRAPERS, abundant on village site 153 + +TICK CREEK CAVE 41 + +TILLMAN, CHARLES, Grave on Land of 95 + +TILLMAN, JOHN, graves on land of 96 + +TODD COUNTY, KY., explorations in 122-123 + +TOMPKINSVILLE, caves in vicinity of 121 + +"TONKY," caves in vicinity of 89 + +TORONTO, caves in vicinity of 90 + +TRADITION-- + concerning the Shark God 178 + of the "Ground House Indians" 172 + +TRAVERTINE-- + from Wyandotte Cave 108 + _See_ Alabaster; Onyx; Stalagmite. + +TROY, KANSAS, explorations in vicinity of 153-154 + +TULEY, JOHN BLACK, cave on land of 121 + +TUNNEL CAVE 56 + +TURKEY-PEN SLOUGH, village site at mouth of 40 + +TUSCUMBIA, MO., village site in vicinity of 95-96 + +TWIN CAVES 22 + + +VIENNA, cave in vicinity of 96 + +VILLAGE SITES-- + in vicinity of Arlington, Mo. 40 + on Big Piney 83 + on Gourd Creek 34 + on Saline Creek 96 + on Wolf River 153 + Pawnee 153 + _See_ House mounds; Hut rings; Lodge sites; Mounds. + + +WAIHEE, remains at 189-190 + +WAILUA, investigations at 192-193 + +WAILUKU, heiaus at 188-189 + +WAIMEA, remains near 183, 194 + +WARREN COUNTY, KY., explorations in 118 + +WATSON CAVE 22 + +WAYNESVILLE-- + cairns in vicinity of 44 + caves in vicinity of 43, 51, 52, 56 + +WELBURN'S CAVE 140 + +WELCH'S CAVE 18 + +WHITE CLOUD, KANS., explorations in vicinity of 151-153 + +WHITE'S CAVE 115 + +WIDENER, CHARLES E., cave on farm of 23 + +WILD-HOG CAVE 23 + +WILSON, JACK, remarkable will of 92-93 + +WILSON CAVE 92-94 + +WOLF RIVER, village site on 153 + +WOOD, G.S., Indian cemetery on farm of 123 + +WOODLAND HOLLOW, cave in 84 + +WORLEY, E.S., cave on farm of 125 + +WRIGHT CAVE 91-92 + perforator from 93 + +WYANDOTTE CAVE 108-110 + size of 102 + +WYNNE'S CAVE 113 + + +YANCY MILLS, caves in vicinity of 23, 24 + +YELLOW LAKE, mound opened near 172 + +YOARK, MARTHA, home of 44 + +YOARK CAVE, described 43-44 + + +ZIMMERMAN, MARK E.-- + buffalo wallows examined by 152 + skeletons exhumed by 151 + + + * * * * * + + +--------------------------------------------------------------+ + | Typographical errors corrected in text: | + | | + | Page 55: deposists replaced with deposits | + +--------------------------------------------------------------+ + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Archeological Investigations, by Gerard Fowke + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARCHEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS *** + +***** This file should be named 18931.txt or 18931.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/9/3/18931/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Jeannie Howse, Alicia Williams, +Bruce Albrecht and the Online Distributed Proofreading +Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from +images generously made available by the Bibliotheque +nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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