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authorRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:54:24 -0700
committerRoger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>2025-10-15 04:54:24 -0700
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sketches And Studies, vol. III. by John
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+<body>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter"><img width="100%" src="images/ildefonso.jpg" alt=
+"ildefonso" /></div>
+
+<h1>SKETCHES AND STUDIES</h1>
+
+<h1>IN ITALY AND GREECE</h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>BY JOHN ADDINGTON SYMONDS</h3>
+
+<h5>AUTHOR OF "RENAISSANCE IN ITALY," "STUDIES OF THE GREEK POETS,"
+ETC.</h5>
+
+<h4>THIRD SERIES</h4>
+
+<h4>WITH A FRONTISPIECE</h4>
+
+<h4>LONDON</h4>
+
+<h4>JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W.</h4>
+
+<h4>1910</h4>
+
+<table summary="Edition" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" border="0"
+style="width: 80%;">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td class="cell_lt">
+<div class="smcap">First Edition (Smith, Elder &amp; Co.)</div>
+</td>
+<td class="cell_mid"><i>December</i> 1898</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="cell_lt"><i>Reprinted</i></td>
+<td class="cell_mid"><i>December</i> 1907</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="cell_lt"><i>Reprinted</i></td>
+<td class="cell_mid"><i>October</i> 1910</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="cell_lt">
+<div class="smcap">Taken Over by John Murray</div>
+</td>
+<td class="cell_mid"><i>January</i> 1917</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><i>Printed in Great Britain by</i></div>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">Spottiswoode, Ballantyne &amp; Co. Ltd.</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="center"><i>London, Colchester &amp; Eton</i></div>
+
+<h4><a href="index.html">INDEX</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href=
+"i.html">Volume I.</a>&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="ii.html">Volume
+II.</a></h4>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li><span class="tocright">PAGE</span></li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Folgore da San Gemignano<span class=
+"tocright"><a href="#FOLGORE">1</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Thoughts in Italy about Christmas<span class=
+"tocright"><a href="#CHRISTMAS">21</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Siena<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#SIENA">41</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Monte Oliveto<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#OLIVETO">66</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Montepulciano<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#MONTEPULCIANO">87</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Perugia<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#PERUGIA">111</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Orvieto<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#ORVIETO">137</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Lucretius<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#LUCRETIUS">155</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Antinous<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#ANTINOUS">184</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Spring Wanderings<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#WANDERINGS">184</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Amalfi, P&aelig;stum, Capri<span class=
+"tocright"><a href="#AMALFI">250</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Etna<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#ETNA">279</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Palermo<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#PALERMO">290</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Syracuse and Girgenti<span class="tocright"><a
+href="#SYRACUSE">319</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>
+<div class="smcap">Athens<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#ATHENS">339</a></span></div>
+</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<ul class="TOC">
+<li>INDEX<span class="tocright"><a href=
+"#INDEX">365</a></span></li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+<table summary="Ildefonso Group" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2"
+border="0" style="width: 90%;">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td class="cell_lt">
+<div class="smcap">The Ildefonso Group</div>
+</td>
+<td class="cell_rg"><a href=
+"images/ildefonso.jpg"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg001" id=
+"pg001">1</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>SKETCHES AND STUDIES</h2>
+
+<h5>IN</h5>
+
+<h2>ITALY AND GREECE</h2>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+<h3><a name="FOLGORE" id="FOLGORE" /><i>FOLGORE DA SAN
+GEMIGNANO</i></h3>
+
+<p>Students of Mr. Dante Gabriel Rossetti's translations from the
+early Italian poets (<i>Dante and his Circle</i>. Ellis &amp;
+White, 1874) will not fail to have noticed the striking figure made
+among those jejune imitators of Proven&ccedil;al mannerism by two
+rhymesters, Cecco Angiolieri and Folgore da San Gemignano. Both
+belong to the school of Siena, and both detach themselves from the
+metaphysical fashion of their epoch by clearness of intention and
+directness of style. The sonnets of both are remarkable for what in
+the critical jargon of to-day might be termed realism. Cecco is
+even savage and brutal. He anticipates Villon from afar, and is
+happily described by Mr. Rossetti as the prodigal, or 'scamp' of
+the Dantesque circle. The case is different with Folgore. There is
+no poet who breathes a fresher air of gentleness. He writes in
+images, dealing but little with ideas. Every line presents a
+picture, and each picture has the charm of a miniature fancifully
+drawn and brightly coloured on a missal-margin. Cecco and Folgore
+alike have abandoned the <a name="pg002" id="pg002"></a><span
+class="pagenum">2</span> medi&aelig;val mysticism which sounds
+unreal on almost all Italian lips but Dante's. True Italians, they
+are content to live for life's sake, and to take the world as it
+presents itself to natural senses. But Cecco is perverse and
+impious. His love has nothing delicate; his hatred is a morbid
+passion. At his worst or best (for his best writing is his worst
+feeling) we find him all but rabid. If Caligula, for instance, had
+written poetry, he might have piqued himself upon the following
+sonnet; only we must do Cecco the justice of remembering that his
+rage is more than half ironical and humorous:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">An I were fire, I would burn up the world;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">An I were wind, with tempest I'd it break;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">An I were sea, I'd drown it in a lake;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">An I were God, to hell I'd have it hurled;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">An I were Pope, I'd see disaster whirled</div>
+
+<div class="i5">O'er Christendom, deep joy thereof to take;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">An I were Emperor, I'd quickly make</div>
+
+<div class="i5">All heads of all folk from their necks be
+twirled;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">An I were death, I'd to my father go;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">An I were life, forthwith from him I'd fly;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">And with my mother I'd deal even so;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">An I were Cecco, as I am but I,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Young girls and pretty for myself I'd hold,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">But let my neighbours take the plain and old.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Of all this there is no trace in Folgore. The worst a moralist
+could say of him is that he sought out for himself a life of pure
+enjoyment. The famous Sonnets on the Months give particular
+directions for pastime in a round of pleasure suited to each
+season. The Sonnets on the Days are conceived in a like hedonistic
+spirit. But these series are specially addressed to members of the
+Glad Brigades and Spending Companies, which were common in the
+great mercantile cities of medi&aelig;val Italy. Their tone is
+doubtless due to the occasion of their composition, as compliments
+to Messer Nichol&ograve; di Nisi and Messer Guerra Cavicciuoli.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg003" id="pg003">3</a></span>
+The mention of these names reminds me that a word need be said
+about the date of Folgore. Mr. Rossetti does not dispute the
+commonly assigned date of 1260, and takes for granted that the
+Messer Nicol&ograve; of the Sonnets on the Months was the Sienese
+gentleman referred to by Dante in a certain passage of the
+'Inferno':<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">And to the Poet said I: 'Now was ever</div>
+
+<div class="i5">So vain a people as the Sienese?</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Not for a certainty the French by far.'</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Whereat the other leper, who had heard me,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Replied unto my speech: 'Taking out Stricca,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Who knew the art of moderate expenses,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">And Nicol&ograve;, who the luxurious use</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Of cloves discovered earliest of all</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Within that garden where such seed takes
+root.</div>
+
+<div class="i2">And taking out the band, among whom
+squandered</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Caccia d' Ascian his vineyards and vast
+woods,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">And where his wit the Abbagliato proffered.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Now Folgore refers in his political sonnets to events of the
+years 1314 and 1315; and the correct reading of a line in his last
+sonnet on the Months gives the name of Nichol&ograve; di Nisi to
+the leader of Folgore's 'blithe and lordly Fellowship.' The first
+of these facts leads us to the conclusion that Folgore flourished
+in the first quarter of the fourteenth, instead of in the third
+quarter of the thirteenth century. The second prevents our
+identifying Nichol&ograve; di Nisi with the Niccol&ograve; de'
+Salimbeni, who is thought to have been the founder of the
+Fellowship of the Carnation. Furthermore, documents have recently
+been brought to light which mention at San Gemignano, in the years
+1305 and 1306, a certain Folgore. There is no sufficient reason to
+identify this Folgore with the poet; but the name, to say the
+least, is so peculiar that its occurrence in the records of so
+small a town as San Gemignano gives some confirmation to the
+hypothesis of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg004" id=
+"pg004">4</a></span> poet's later date. Taking these several
+considerations together, I think we must abandon the old view that
+Folgore was one of the earliest Tuscan poets, a view which is,
+moreover, contradicted by his style. Those critics, at any rate,
+who still believe him to have been a predecessor of Dante's, are
+forced to reject as spurious the political sonnets referring to
+Monte Catini and the plunder of Lucca by Uguccione della Faggiuola.
+Yet these sonnets rest on the same manuscript authority as the
+Months and Days, and are distinguished by the same qualities.<a
+name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+<i>Inferno</i>, xxix. 121.&mdash;<i>Longfellow</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The
+above points are fully discussed by Signor Giulio Navone, in his
+recent edition of <i>Le Rime di Folgore da San Gemignano e di Cene
+da la Chitarra d' Arezzo</i>. Bologna: Romagnoli, 1880. I may
+further mention that in the sonnet on the Pisans, translated on p.
+18, which belongs to the political series, Folgore uses his own
+name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whatever may be the date of Folgore, whether we assign his
+period to the middle of the thirteenth or the beginning of the
+fourteenth century, there is no doubt but that he presents us with
+a very lively picture of Italian manners, drawn from the point of
+view of the high bourgeoisie. It is on this account that I have
+thought it worth while to translate five of his Sonnets on
+Knighthood, which form the fragment that remains to us from a
+series of seventeen. Few poems better illustrate the temper of
+Italian aristocracy when the civil wars of two centuries had forced
+the nobles to enroll themselves among the burghers, and when what
+little chivalry had taken root in Italy was fast decaying in a
+gorgeous over-bloom of luxury. The institutions of feudal
+knighthood had lost their sterner meaning for our poet. He uses
+them for the suggestion of delicate allegories fancifully painted.
+Their mysterious significance is turned to gaiety, their piety to
+amorous delight, their grimness to refined enjoyment. Still these
+changes are effected with perfect good taste and in perfect good
+faith. Something of the perfume of true <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg005" id="pg005">5</a></span> chivalry still lingered in a
+society which was fast becoming mercantile and diplomatic. And this
+perfume is exhaled by the petals of Folgore's song-blossom. He has
+no conception that to readers of Mort Arthur, or to Founders of the
+Garter, to Sir Miles Stapleton, Sir Richard Fitz-Simon, or Sir
+James Audley, his ideal knight would have seemed but little better
+than a scented civet-cat. Such knights as his were all that Italy
+possessed, and the poet-painter was justly proud of them, since
+they served for finished pictures of the beautiful in life.</p>
+
+<p>The Italians were not a feudal race. During the successive
+reigns of Lombard, Frankish, and German masters, they had passively
+accepted, stubbornly resisted feudalism, remaining true to the
+conviction that they themselves were Roman. In Roman memories they
+sought the traditions which give consistency to national
+consciousness. And when the Italian communes triumphed finally over
+Empire, counts, bishops, and rural aristocracy; then Roman law was
+speedily substituted for the 'asinine code' of the barbarians, and
+Roman civility gave its tone to social customs in the place of
+Teutonic chivalry. Yet just as the Italians borrowed, modified, and
+misconceived Gothic architecture, so they took a feudal tincture
+from the nations of the North with whom they came in contact. Their
+noble families, those especially who followed the Imperial party,
+sought the honour of knighthood; and even the free cities arrogated
+to themselves the right of conferring this distinction by diploma
+on their burghers. The chivalry thus formed in Italy was a
+decorative institution. It might be compared to the ornamental
+frontispiece which masks the structural poverty of such Gothic
+buildings as the Cathedral of Orvieto.</p>
+
+<p>On the descent of the German Emperor into Lombardy, the great
+vassals who acknowledged him, made knighthood, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg006" id="pg006">6</a></span> among titles of
+more solid import, the price of their allegiance.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_3" id="FNanchor_1_3" /><a href="#Footnote_1_3"
+class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Thus the chronicle of the Cortusi for the
+year 1354 tells us that when Charles IV. 'was advancing through the
+March, and had crossed the Oglio, and was at the borders of
+Cremona, in his camp upon the snow, he, sitting upon his horse, did
+knight the doughty and noble man, Francesco da Carrara, who had
+constantly attended him with a great train, and smiting him upon
+the neck with his palm, said: "Be thou a good knight, and loyal to
+the Empire." Thereupon the noble German peers dismounted, and
+forthwith buckled on Francesco's spurs. To them the Lord Francesco
+gave chargers and horses of the best he had.' Immediately
+afterwards Francesco dubbed several of his own retainers knights.
+And this was the customary fashion of these Lombard lords. For we
+read how in the year 1328 Can Grande della Scala, after the capture
+of Padua, 'returned to Verona, and for the further celebration of
+his victory upon the last day of October held a court, and made
+thirty-eight knights with his own hand of the divers districts of
+Lombardy.' And in 1294 Azzo d'Este 'was knighted by Gerardo da
+Camino, who then was Lord of Treviso, upon the piazza of Ferrara,
+before the gate of the Bishop's palace. And on the same day at the
+same hour the said Lord Marquis Azzo made fifty-two knights with
+his own hand, namely, the Lord Francesco, his brother, and others
+of Ferrara, Modena, Bologna, Florence, Padua, and Lombardy; and on
+this occasion was a great court held in Ferrara.' Another
+chronicle, referring to the same event, says that the whole
+expenses of the ceremony, including the rich dresses of the new
+knights, were at the charge of the Marquis. It was customary, when
+a noble house had risen to great wealth and <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg007" id="pg007">7</a></span> had abundance of
+fighting men, to increase its prestige and spread abroad its glory
+by a wholesale creation of knights. Thus the Chronicle of Rimini
+records a high court held by Pandolfo Malatesta in the May of 1324,
+when he and his two sons, with two of his near relatives and
+certain strangers from Florence, Bologna, and Perugia, received
+this honour. At Siena, in like manner, in the year 1284, 'thirteen
+of the house of Salimbeni were knighted with great pomp.'</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_3" id="Footnote_1_3" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_3"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+passages used in the text are chiefly drawn from Muratori's
+fifty-third Dissertation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was not on the battlefield that the Italians sought this
+honour. They regarded knighthood as a part of their signorial
+parade. Therefore Republics, in whom perhaps, according to strict
+feudal notions, there was no fount of honour, presumed to appoint
+procurators for the special purpose of making knights. Florence,
+Siena, and Arezzo, after this fashion gave the golden spurs to men
+who were enrolled in the arts of trade or commerce. The usage was
+severely criticised by Germans who visited Italy in the Imperial
+train. Otto Frisingensis, writing the deeds of Frederick
+Barbarossa, speaks with bitterness thereof: 'To the end that they
+may not lack means of subduing their neighbours, they think it no
+shame to gird as knights young men of low birth, or even
+handicraftsmen in despised mechanic arts, the which folk other
+nations banish like the plague from honourable and liberal
+pursuits.' Such knights, amid the chivalry of Europe, were not held
+in much esteem; nor is it easy to see what the cities, which had
+formally excluded nobles from their government, thought to gain by
+aping institutions which had their true value only in a feudal
+society. We must suppose that the Italians were not firmly set
+enough in their own type to resist an enthusiasm which inflamed all
+Christendom. At the same time they were too Italian to comprehend
+the spirit of the thing they borrowed. The knights thus made
+already contained within themselves the germ of those Condottieri
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg008" id="pg008">8</a></span>who
+reduced the service of arms to a commercial speculation. But they
+lent splendour to the Commonwealth, as may be seen in the grave
+line of mounted warriors, steel-clad, with open visors, who guard
+the commune of Siena in Ambrogio Lorenzetti's fresco. Giovanni
+Villani, in a passage of his Chronicle which deals with the fair
+state of Florence just before the outbreak of the Black and White
+parties, says the city at that epoch numbered 'three hundred
+Cavalieri di Corredo, with many clubs of knights and squires, who
+morning and evening went to meat with many men of the court, and
+gave away on high festivals many robes of vair.' It is clear that
+these citizen knights were leaders of society, and did their duty
+to the commonwealth by adding to its joyous cheer. Upon the
+battlefields of the civil wars, moreover, they sustained at their
+expense the charges of the cavalry.</p>
+
+<p>Siena was a city much given to parade and devoted to the
+Imperial cause, in which the institution of chivalry flourished.
+Not only did the burghers take knighthood from their procurators,
+but the more influential sought it by a special dispensation from
+the Emperor. Thus we hear how Nino Tolomei obtained a
+C&aelig;sarean diploma of knighthood for his son Giovanni, and
+published it with great pomp to the people in his palace. This
+Giovanni, when he afterwards entered religion, took the name of
+Bernard, and founded the Order of Monte Oliveto.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to the special conditions of Italian chivalry, it followed
+that the new knight, having won his spurs by no feat of arms upon
+the battlefield, was bounden to display peculiar magnificence in
+the ceremonies of his investiture. His honour was held to be less
+the reward of courage than of liberality. And this feeling is
+strongly expressed in a curious passage of Matteo Villani's
+Chronicle. 'When the Emperor Charles had received the crown in
+Rome, as we have said, he <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg009" id=
+"pg009">9</a></span>turned towards Siena, and on the 19th day of
+April arrived at that city; and before he entered the same, there
+met him people of the commonwealth with great festivity upon the
+hour of vespers; in the which reception eight burghers, given to
+display but miserly, to the end they might avoid the charges due to
+knighthood, did cause themselves then and there to be made knights
+by him. And no sooner had he passed the gates than many ran to meet
+him without order in their going or provision for the ceremony, and
+he, being aware of the vain and light impulse of that folk,
+enjoined upon the Patriarch to knight them in his name. The
+Patriarch could not withstay from knighting as many as offered
+themselves; and seeing the thing so cheap, very many took the
+honour, who before that hour had never thought of being knighted,
+nor had made provision of what is required from him who seeketh
+knighthood, but with light impulse did cause themselves to be borne
+upon the arms of those who were around the Patriarch; and when they
+were in the path before him, these raised such an one on high, and
+took his customary cap off, and after he had had the cheek-blow
+which is used in knighting, put a gold-fringed cap upon his head,
+and drew him from the press, and so he was a knight. And after this
+wise were made four-and-thirty on that evening, of the noble and
+lesser folk. And when the Emperor had been attended to his lodging,
+night fell, and all returned home; and the new knights without
+preparation or expense celebrated their reception into chivalry
+with their families forthwith. He who reflects with a mind not
+subject to base avarice upon the coming of a new-crowned Emperor
+into so famous a city, and bethinks him how so many noble and rich
+burghers were promoted to the honour of knighthood in their native
+land, men too by nature fond of pomp, without having made any
+solemn festival in common or in private to the fame of chivalry,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg010" id="pg010">10</a></span>may
+judge this people little worthy of the distinction they
+received.'</p>
+
+<p>This passage is interesting partly as an instance of Florentine
+spite against Siena, partly as showing that in Italy great
+munificence was expected from the carpet-knights who had not won
+their spurs with toil, and partly as proving how the German
+Emperors, on their parade expeditions through Italy, debased the
+institutions they were bound to hold in respect. Enfeebled by the
+extirpation of the last great German house which really reigned in
+Italy, the Empire was now no better than a cause of corruption and
+demoralisation to Italian society. The conduct of a man like
+Charles disgusted even the most fervent Ghibellines; and we find
+Fazio degli Uberti flinging scorn upon his avarice and baseness in
+such lines as these:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Sappi ch' i' son Italia che ti parlo,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Di Lusimburgo <i>ignominioso Carlo</i> ...</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Veggendo te aver tese tue arti</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><i>A t&oacute;r danari e gir con essi a casa</i>
+...</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Tu dunque, Giove, perche 'l Santo uccello</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Da questo Carlo quarto</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Imperador non togli e dalle mani</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><i>Degli altri, lurchi moderni Germani</i></div>
+
+<div class="i4"><i>Che d' aquila un allocco n' hanno
+fatto</i>?</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>From a passage in a Sienese chronicle we learn what ceremonies
+of bravery were usual in that city when the new knights understood
+their duty. It was the year 1326. Messer Francesco Bandinelli was
+about to be knighted on the morning of Christmas Day. The friends
+of his house sent peacocks and pheasants by the dozen, and huge
+pies of marchpane, and game in quantities. Wine, meat, and bread
+were distributed to the Franciscan and other convents, and a fair
+and noble court was opened to all comers. Messer Sozzo, father of
+the novice, went, attended by his guests, to <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg011" id="pg011">11</a></span>hear high mass in
+the cathedral; and there upon the marble pulpit, which the Pisans
+carved, the ceremony was completed. Tommaso di Nello bore his sword
+and cap and spurs before him upon horseback. Messer Sozzo girded
+the sword upon the loins of Messer Francesco, his son aforesaid.
+Messer Pietro Ridolfi, of Rome, who was the first vicar that came
+to Siena, and the Duke of Calabria buckled on his right spur. The
+Captain of the People buckled on his left. The Count Simone da
+Battifolle then undid his sword and placed it in the hands of
+Messer Giovanni di Messer Bartolo de' Fibenzi da Rodi, who handed
+it to Messer Sozzo, the which sword had previously been girded by
+the father on his son. After this follows a list of the illustrious
+guests, and an inventory of the presents made to them by Messer
+Francesco. We find among these 'a robe of silken cloth and gold,
+skirt, and fur, and cap lined with vair, with a silken cord.' The
+description of the many costly dresses is minute; but I find no
+mention of armour. The singers received golden florins, and the
+players upon instruments 'good store of money.' A certain Salamone
+was presented with the clothes which the novice doffed before he
+took the ceremonial bath. The whole catalogue concludes with Messer
+Francesco's furniture and outfit. This, besides a large wardrobe of
+rich clothes and furs, contains armour and the trappings for
+charger and palfrey. The <i>Corte Bandita</i>, or open house held
+upon this occasion, lasted for eight days, and the charges on the
+Bandinelli estates must have been considerable.</p>
+
+<p>Knights so made were called in Italy <i>Cavalieri Addobbati</i>,
+or <i>di Corredo</i>, probably because the expense of costly
+furniture was borne by them&mdash;<i>addobbo</i> having become a
+name for decorative trappings, and <i>Corredo</i> for equipment.
+The latter is still in use for a bride's trousseau. The former has
+the same Teutonic root as our verb 'to dub.' But the Italians <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg012" id="pg012">12</a></span>recognised
+three other kinds of knights, the <i>Cavalieri Bagati</i>,
+<i>Cavalieri di Scudo</i>, and <i>Cavalieri d'Arme</i>. Of the four
+sorts Sacchetti writes in one of his novels:&mdash;'Knights of the
+Bath are made with the greatest ceremonies, and it behoves them to
+be bathed and washed of all impurity. Knights of Equipment are
+those who take the order with a mantle of dark green and the gilded
+garland. Knights of the Shield are such as are made knights by
+commonwealths or princes, or go to investiture armed, and with the
+casque upon their head. Knights of Arms are those who in the
+opening of a battle, or upon a foughten field, are dubbed knights.'
+These distinctions, however, though concordant with feudal
+chivalry, were not scrupulously maintained in Italy. Messer
+Francesco Bandinelli, for example, was certainly a <i>Cavaliere di
+Corredo</i>. Yet he took the bath, as we have seen. Of a truth, the
+Italians selected those picturesque elements of chivalry which lent
+themselves to pageant and parade. The sterner intention of the
+institution, and the symbolic meaning of its various ceremonies,
+were neglected by them.</p>
+
+<p>In the foregoing passages, which serve as a lengthy preamble to
+Folgore's five sonnets, I have endeavoured to draw illustrations
+from the history of Siena, because Folgore represents Sienese
+society at the height of medi&aelig;val culture. In the first of
+the series he describes the preparation made by the aspirant after
+knighthood. The noble youth is so bent on doing honour to the order
+of chivalry, that he raises money by mortgage to furnish forth the
+banquets and the presents due upon the occasion of his institution.
+He has made provision also of equipment for himself and all his
+train. It will be noticed that Folgore dwells only on the fair and
+joyous aspect of the ceremony. The religious enthusiasm of
+knighthood has disappeared, and already, in the first decade of the
+fourteenth century, we find the spirit <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg013" id="pg013">13</a></span>of Jehan de Saintr&egrave;
+prevalent in Italy. The word <i>donzello</i>, derived from the
+Latin <i>domicellus</i>, I have translated <i>squire</i>, because
+the donzel was a youth of gentle birth awaiting knighthood.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">This morn a young squire shall be made a
+knight;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">hereof he fain would be right worthy found,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And therefore pledgeth lands and castles
+round</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To furnish all that fits a man of might.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Meat, bread and wine he gives to many a
+wight;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Capons and pheasants on his board abound,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Where serving men and pages march around;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Choice chambers, torches, and wax candle
+light.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Barbed steeds, a multitude, are in his
+thought,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Mailed men at arms and noble company,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Spears, pennants, housing cloths, bells richly
+wrought.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Musicians following with great barony</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And jesters through the land his state have
+brought,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With dames and damsels whereso rideth he.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The subject having thus been introduced, Folgore treats the
+ceremonies of investiture by an allegorical method, which is quite
+consistent with his own preference of images to ideas. Each of the
+four following sonnets presents a picture to the mind, admirably
+fitted for artistic handling. We may imagine them to ourselves
+wrought in arras for a sumptuous chamber. The first treats of the
+bath, in which, as we have seen already from Sacchetti's note, the
+aspirant after knighthood puts aside all vice, and consecrates
+himself anew. Prodezza, or Prowess, must behold him nude from head
+to foot, in order to assure herself that the neophyte bears no
+blemish; and this inspection is an allegory of internal
+wholeness.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Lo Prowess, who despoileth him straightway,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And saith: 'Friend, now beseems it thee to
+strip;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For I will see men naked, thigh and hip,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And thou my will must know and eke obey;</div>
+
+<div class="i1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg014" id=
+"pg014">14</a></span>And leave what was thy wont until this
+day,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And for new toil, new sweat, thy strength
+equip;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">This do, and thou shalt join my fellowship,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">If of fair deeds thou tire not nor cry nay.'</div>
+
+<div class="i1">And when she sees his comely body bare,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Forthwith within her arms she him doth take,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And saith: 'These limbs thou yieldest to my
+prayer;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">I do accept thee, and this gift thee make,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">So that thy deeds may shine for ever fair;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">My lips shall never more thy praise forsake.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>After courage, the next virtue of the knightly character is
+gentleness or modesty, called by the Italians humility. It is this
+quality which makes a strong man pleasing to the world, and wins
+him favour. Folgore's sonnet enables us to understand the motto of
+the great Borromeo family&mdash;<i>Humilitas</i>, in Gothic letters
+underneath the coronet upon their princely palace fronts.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Humility to him doth gently go,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And saith: 'I would in no wise weary thee;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Yet must I cleanse and wash thee thoroughly,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And I will make thee whiter than the snow.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Hear what I tell thee in few words, for so</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Fain am I of thy heart to hold the key;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Now must thou sail henceforward after me;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And I will guide thee as myself do go.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">But one thing would I have thee straightway
+leave;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Well knowest thou mine enemy is pride;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Let her no more unto thy spirit cleave:</div>
+
+<div class="i1">So leal a friend with thee will I abide</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That favour from all folk thou shalt receive;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">This grace hath he who keepeth on my side.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The novice has now bathed, approved himself to the searching
+eyes of Prowess, and been accepted by Humility. After the bath, it
+was customary for him to spend a night in vigil; and this among the
+Teutons should have taken place in church, alone before the altar.
+But the Italian poet, after his custom, <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg015" id="pg015">15</a></span>gives a suave turn to the
+severe discipline. His donzel passes the night in bed, attended by
+Discretion, or the virtue of reflection. She provides fair
+entertainment for the hours of vigil, and leaves him at the morning
+with good counsel. It is not for nothing that he seeks knighthood,
+and it behoves him to be careful of his goings. The last three
+lines of the sonnet are the gravest of the series, showing that
+something of true chivalrous feeling survived even among the
+Cavalieri di Corredo of Tuscany.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Then did Discretion to the squire draw near,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And drieth him with a fair cloth and clean,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And straightway putteth him the sheets
+between,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Silk, linen, counterpane, and minevere.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Think now of this! Until the day was clear,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With songs and music and delight the queen,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And with new knights, fair fellows
+well-beseen,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To make him perfect, gave him goodly cheer.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Then saith she: 'Rise forthwith, for now 'tis
+due,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Thou shouldst be born into the world again;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Keep well the order thou dost take in view.'</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Unfathomable thoughts with him remain</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of that great bond he may no more eschew,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor can he say, 'I'll hide me from this
+chain.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The vigil is over. The mind of the novice is prepared for his
+new duties. The morning of his reception into chivalry has arrived.
+It is therefore fitting that grave thoughts should be abandoned;
+and seeing that not only prowess, humility, and discretion are the
+virtues of a knight, but that he should also be blithe and
+debonair, Gladness comes to raise him from his bed and equip him
+for the ceremony of institution.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Comes Blithesomeness with mirth and
+merriment,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">All decked in flowers she seemeth a
+rose-tree;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of linen, silk, cloth, fur, now beareth she</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg016" id=
+"pg016">16</a></span>the new knight a rich habiliment;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Head-gear and cap and garland
+flower-besprent,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">So brave they were May-bloom he seemed to be;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With such a rout, so many and such glee,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That the floor shook. Then to her work she
+went;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">And stood him on his feet in hose and shoon;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And purse and gilded girdle 'neath the fur</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That drapes his goodly limbs, she buckles on;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Then bids the singers and sweet music stir,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And showeth him to ladies for a boon</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And all who in that following went with her.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>At this point the poem is abruptly broken. The manuscript from
+which these sonnets are taken states they are a fragment. Had the
+remaining twelve been preserved to us, we should probably have
+possessed a series of pictures in which the procession to church
+would have been portrayed, the investiture with the sword, the
+accolade, the buckling on of the spurs, and the concluding sports
+and banquets. It is very much to be regretted that so interesting,
+so beautiful, and so unique a monument of Italian chivalry survives
+thus mutilated. But students of art have to arm themselves
+continually with patience, repressing the sad thoughts engendered
+in them by the spectacle of time's unconscious injuries.</p>
+
+<p>It is certain that Folgore would have written at least one
+sonnet on the quality of courtesy, which in that age, as we have
+learned from Matteo Villani, identified itself in the Italian mind
+with liberality. This identification marks a certain degradation of
+the chivalrous ideal, which is characteristic of Italian manners.
+One of Folgore's miscellaneous sonnets shows how sorely he felt the
+disappearance of this quality from the midst of a society bent
+daily more and more upon material aims. It reminds us of the
+lamentable outcries uttered by the later poets of the fourteenth
+century, Sacchetti, Boccaccio, Uberti, and others of less fame,
+over the decline of their age.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg017" id=
+"pg017">17</a></span>Courtesy! Courtesy! Courtesy! I call:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But from no quarter comes there a reply.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And whoso needs her, ill must us befall.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Greed with his hook hath ta'en men one and
+all,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And murdered every grace that dumb doth lie:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Whence, if I grieve, I know the reason why;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">From you, great men, to God I make my call:</div>
+
+<div class="i1">For you my mother Courtesy have cast</div>
+
+<div class="i4">So low beneath your feet she there must
+bleed;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Your gold remains, but you're not made to
+last:</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Of Eve and Adam we are all the seed:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Able to give and spend, you hold wealth fast:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Ill is the nature that rears such a breed!</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Folgore was not only a poet of occasion and compliment, but a
+political writer, who fully entertained the bitter feeling of the
+Guelphs against their Ghibelline opponents.</p>
+
+<p>Two of his sonnets addressed to the Guelphs have been translated
+by Mr. Rossetti. In order to complete the list I have made free
+versions of two others in which he criticised the weakness of his
+own friends. The first is addressed, in the insolent impiety of
+rage, to God:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">I praise thee not, O God, nor give thee
+glory,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor yield thee any thanks, nor bow the knee,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor pay thee service; for this irketh me</div>
+
+<div class="i4">More than the souls to stand in purgatory;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Since thou hast made us Guelphs a jest and
+story</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Unto the Ghibellines for all to see:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And if Uguccion claimed tax of thee,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Thou'dst pay it without interrogatory.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Ah, well I wot they know thee! and have
+stolen</div>
+
+<div class="i4">St. Martin from thee, Altopascio,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">St. Michael, and the treasure thou hast lost;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">And thou that rotten rabble so hast swollen</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That pride now counts for tribute; even so</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Thou'st made their heart stone-hard to thine own
+cost.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg018" id=
+"pg018">18</a></span>About the meaning of some lines in this sonnet
+I am not clear. But the feeling and the general drift of it are
+manifest. The second is a satire on the feebleness and effeminacy
+of the Pisans.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Ye are more silky-sleek than ermines are,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Ye Pisan counts, knights, damozels, and
+squires,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Who think by combing out your hair like wires</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To drive the men of Florence from their car.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Ye make the Ghibellines free near and far,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Here, there, in cities, castles, huts, and
+byres,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Seeing how gallant in your brave attires,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">How bold you look, true paladins of war.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Stout-hearted are ye as a hare in chase,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To meet the sails of Genoa on the sea;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And men of Lucca never saw your face.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Dogs with a bone for courtesy are ye:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Could Folgore but gain a special grace,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">He'd have you banded 'gainst all men that be.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Among the sonnets not translated by Mr. Rossetti two by Folgore
+remain, which may be classified with the not least considerable
+contributions to Italian gnomic poetry in an age when literature
+easily assumed a didactic tone. The first has for its subject the
+importance of discernment and discrimination. It is written on the
+wisdom of what the ancient Greeks called
+&Kappa;&alpha;&iota;&rho;&#972;&sigmaf;, or the right occasion in
+all human conduct.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Dear friend, not every herb puts forth a
+flower;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor every flower that blossoms fruit doth
+bear;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor hath each spoken word a virtue rare;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor every stone in earth its healing power:</div>
+
+<div class="i1">This thing is good when mellow, that when
+sour;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">One seems to grieve, within doth rest from
+care;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Not every torch is brave that flaunts in air;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">There is what dead doth seem, yet flame doth
+shower.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Wherefore it ill behoveth a wise man</div>
+
+<div class="i4">His truss of every grass that grows to bind,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Or pile his back with every stone he can,</div>
+
+<div class="i1"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg019" id=
+"pg019">19</a></span>Or counsel from each word to seek to
+find,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Or take his walks abroad with Dick and Dan:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Not without cause I'm moved to speak my mind.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The second condemns those men of light impulse who, as Dante put
+it, discoursing on the same theme, 'subject reason to
+inclination.'<a name="FNanchor_1_4" id="FNanchor_1_4" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_4" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">What time desire hath o'er the soul such sway</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That reason finds nor place nor puissance
+here,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Men oft do laugh at what should claim a tear,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And over grievous dole are seeming gay.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">He sure would travel far from sense astray</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Who should take frigid ice for fire; and near</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Unto this plight are those who make glad
+cheer</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For what should rather cause their soul
+dismay.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">But more at heart might he feel heavy pain</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Who made his reason subject to mere will,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And followed wandering impulse without rein;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Seeing no lordship is so rich as still</div>
+
+<div class="i4">One's upright self unswerving to sustain,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To follow worth, to flee things vain and ill.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The sonnets translated by me in this essay, taken together with
+those already published by Mr. Rossetti, put the English reader in
+possession of all that passes for the work of Folgore da San
+Gemignano.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_4" id="Footnote_1_4" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_4"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The line
+in Dante runs:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">'Che la ragion sommettono al talento.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Folgore's sonnet we read:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">'Chi sommette rason a volontade.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the supposition that Folgore wrote in the second decade of
+the fourteenth century, it is not impossible that he may have had
+knowledge of this line from the fifth canto of the
+<i>Inferno</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since these words were written, England has lost the
+poet-painter, to complete whose work upon the sonnet-writer of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg020" id=
+"pg020">20</a></span>medi&aelig;val Siena I attempted the
+translations in this essay. One who has trodden the same path as
+Rossetti, at however a noticeable interval, and has attempted to
+present in English verse the works of great Italian singers, doing
+inadequately for Michelangelo and Campanella what he did supremely
+well for Dante, may here perhaps be allowed to lay the tribute of
+reverent recognition at his tomb.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg021" id=
+"pg021">21</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="CHRISTMAS" id="CHRISTMAS" /><i>THOUGHTS IN ITALY ABOUT
+CHRISTMAS</i></h3>
+
+<p>What is the meaning of our English Christmas? What makes it seem
+so truly Northern, national, and homely, that we do not like to
+keep the feast upon a foreign shore? These questions grew upon me
+as I stood one Advent afternoon beneath the Dome of Florence. A
+priest was thundering from the pulpit against French scepticism,
+and exalting the miracle of the Incarnation. Through the whole dim
+church blazed altar candles. Crowds of men and women knelt or sat
+about the transepts, murmuring their prayers of preparation for the
+festival. At the door were pedlars selling little books, in which
+were printed the offices for Christmas-tide, with stories of S.
+Felix and S. Catherine, whose devotion to the infant Christ had
+wrought them weal, and promises of the remission of four
+purgatorial centuries to those who zealously observed the service
+of the Church at this most holy time. I knew that the people of
+Florence were preparing for Christmas in their own way. But it was
+not our way. It happened that outside the church the climate seemed
+as wintry as our own&mdash;snowstorms and ice, and wind and
+chilling fog, suggesting Northern cold. But as the palaces of
+Florence lacked our comfortable firesides, and the greetings of
+friends lacked our hearty handshakes and loud good wishes, so there
+seemed to be a want of the home feeling in those Christmas services
+and customs. Again I asked myself, 'What do we mean by
+Christmas?'</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg022" id=
+"pg022">22</a></span>The same thought pursued me as I drove to
+Rome: by Siena, still and brown, uplifted, mid her russet hills and
+wilderness of rolling plain; by Chiusi, with its sepulchral city of
+a dead and unknown people; through the chestnut forests of the
+Apennines; by Orvieto's rock, Viterbo's fountains, and the
+oak-grown solitudes of the Ciminian heights, from which one looks
+across the broad lake of Bolsena and the Roman plain. Brilliant
+sunlight, like that of a day in late September, shone upon the
+landscape, and I thought&mdash;Can this be Christmas? Are they
+bringing mistletoe and holly on the country carts into the towns in
+far-off England? Is it clear and frosty there, with the tramp of
+heels upon the flag, or snowing silently, or foggy with a round red
+sun and cries of warning at the corners of the streets?</p>
+
+<p>I reached Rome on Christmas Eve, in time to hear midnight
+services in the Sistine Chapel and S. John Lateran, to breathe the
+dust of decayed shrines, to wonder at doting cardinals begrimed
+with snuff, and to resent the open-mouthed bad taste of my
+countrymen who made a mockery of these palsy-stricken ceremonies.
+Nine cardinals going to sleep, nine train-bearers talking scandal,
+twenty huge, handsome Switzers in the dress devised by
+Michelangelo, some ushers, a choir caged off by gilded railings,
+the insolence and eagerness of polyglot tourists, plenty of wax
+candles dripping on people's heads, and a continual nasal drone
+proceeding from the gilded cage, out of which were caught at
+intervals these words, and these only,&mdash;'S&aelig;cula
+s&aelig;culorum, amen.' Such was the celebrated Sistine service.
+The chapel blazed with light, and very strange did Michelangelo's
+Last Judgment, his Sibyls, and his Prophets, appear upon the roof
+and wall above this motley and unmeaning crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning I put on my dress-clothes and white tie, and
+repaired, with groups of Englishmen similarly attired, and of
+Englishwomen in black crape&mdash;the regulation costume &mdash;to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg023" id="pg023">23</a></span>S.
+Peter's. It was a glorious and cloudless morning; sunbeams streamed
+in columns from the southern windows, falling on the vast space
+full of soldiers and a mingled mass of every kind of people. Up the
+nave stood double files of the Pontifical guard. Monks and nuns
+mixed with the Swiss cuirassiers and halberds. Contadini crowded
+round the sacred images, and especially round the toe of S. Peter.
+I saw many mothers lift their swaddled babies up to kiss it. Valets
+of cardinals, with the invariable red umbrellas, hung about side
+chapels and sacristies. Purple-mantled monsignori, like emperor
+butterflies, floated down the aisles from sunlight into shadow.
+Movement, colour, and the stir of expectation, made the church
+alive. We showed our dress-clothes to the guard, were admitted
+within their ranks, and solemnly walked up toward the dome. There
+under its broad canopy stood the altar, glittering with gold and
+candles. The choir was carpeted and hung with scarlet. Two
+magnificent thrones rose ready for the Pope: guards of honour,
+soldiers, attach&eacute;s, and the &eacute;lite of the residents
+and visitors in Rome, were scattered in groups picturesquely varied
+by ecclesiastics of all orders and degrees. At ten a stirring took
+place near the great west door. It opened, and we saw the
+procession of the Pope and his cardinals. Before him marched the
+singers and the blowers of the silver trumpets, making the most
+liquid melody. Then came his Cap of Maintenance, and three tiaras;
+then a company of mitred priests; next the cardinals in scarlet;
+and last, aloft beneath a canopy, upon the shoulders of men, and
+flanked by the mystic fans, advanced the Pope himself, swaying to
+and fro like a Lama, or an Aztec king. Still the trumpets blew most
+silverly, and still the people knelt; and as he came, we knelt and
+had his blessing. Then he took his state and received homage. After
+this the choir began to sing a mass of Palestrina's, and the <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg024" id="pg024">24</a></span>deacons
+robed the Pope. Marvellous putting on and taking off of robes and
+tiaras and mitres ensued, during which there was much bowing and
+praying and burning of incense. At last, when he had reached the
+highest stage of sacrificial sanctity, he proceeded to the altar,
+waited on by cardinals and bishops. Having censed it carefully, he
+took a higher throne and divested himself of part of his robes.
+Then the mass went on in earnest, till the moment of consecration,
+when it paused, the Pope descended from his throne, passed down the
+choir, and reached the altar. Every one knelt; the shrill bell
+tinkled; the silver trumpets blew; the air became sick and heavy
+with incense, so that sun and candle light swooned in an atmosphere
+of odorous cloud-wreaths. The whole church trembled, hearing the
+strange subtle music vibrate in the dome, and seeing the Pope with
+his own hands lift Christ's body from the altar and present it to
+the people. An old parish priest, pilgrim from some valley of the
+Apennines, who knelt beside me, cried and quivered with excess of
+adoration. The great tombs around, the sculptured saints and
+angels, the dome, the volumes of light and incense and unfamiliar
+melody, the hierarchy ministrant, the white and central figure of
+the Pope, the multitude&mdash;made up an overpowering scene. What
+followed was comparatively tedious. My mind again went back to
+England, and I thought of Christmas services beginning in all
+village churches and all cathedrals throughout the land&mdash;their
+old familiar hymn, their anthem of Handel, their trite and sleepy
+sermons. How different the two feasts are&mdash;Christmas in Rome,
+Christmas in England&mdash;Italy and the North&mdash;the spirit of
+Latin and the spirit of Teutonic Christianity.</p>
+
+<p>What, then, constitutes the essence of our Christmas as
+different from that of more Southern nations? In their origin they
+are the same. The stable of Bethlehem, the <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg025" id="pg025">25</a></span>star-led kings, the shepherds,
+and the angels&mdash;all the beautiful story, in fact, which S.
+Luke alone of the Evangelists has preserved for us&mdash;are what
+the whole Christian world owes to the religious feeling of the
+Hebrews. The first and second chapters of S. Luke are most
+important in the history of Christian mythology and art. They are
+far from containing the whole of what we mean by Christmas; but the
+religious poetry which gathers round that season must be sought
+upon their pages. Angels, ever since the Exodus, played a first
+part in the visions of the Hebrew prophets and in the lives of
+their heroes. We know not what reminiscences of old Egyptian genii,
+what strange shadows of the winged beasts of Persia, flitted
+through their dreams. In the desert, or under the boundless sky of
+Babylon, these shapes became no less distinct than the precise
+outlines of Oriental scenery. They incarnated the vivid thoughts
+and intense longings of the prophets, who gradually came to give
+them human forms and titles. We hear of them by name, as servants
+and attendants upon God, as guardians of nations, and patrons of
+great men. To the Hebrew mind the whole unseen world was full of
+spirits, active, strong, and swift of flight, of various aspect,
+and with power of speech. It is hard to imagine what the first
+Jewish disciples and the early Greek and Roman converts thought of
+these great beings. To us, the hierarchies of Dionysius, the
+services of the Church, the poetry of Dante and Milton, and the
+forms of art, have made them quite familiar. Northern nations have
+appropriated the Angels, and invested them with attributes alien to
+their Oriental origin. They fly through our pine-forests, and the
+gloom of cloud or storm; they ride upon our clanging bells, and
+gather in swift squadrons among the arches of Gothic cathedrals; we
+see them making light in the cavernous depth of woods, where sun or
+moon beams rarely pierce, and ministering <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg026" id="pg026">26</a></span>to the wounded or the weary;
+they bear aloft the censers of the mass; they sing in the anthems
+of choristers, and live in strains of poetry and music; our
+churches bear their names; we call our children by their titles; we
+love them as our guardians, and the whole unseen world is made a
+home to us by their imagined presence. All these things are the
+growth of time and the work of races whose myth-making imagination
+is more artistic than that of the Hebrews. Yet this rich legacy of
+romance is bound up in the second chapter of S. Luke; and it is to
+him we must give thanks when at Christmas-tide we read of the
+shepherds and the angels in English words more beautiful than his
+own Greek.</p>
+
+<p>The angels in the stable of Bethlehem, the kings who came from
+the far East, and the adoring shepherds, are the gift of Hebrew
+legend and of the Greek physician Luke to Christmas. How these
+strange and splendid incidents affect modern fancy remains for us
+to examine; at present we must ask, What did the Romans give to
+Christmas? The customs of the Christian religion, like everything
+that belongs to the modern world, have nothing pure and simple in
+their nature. They are the growth of long ages, and of widely
+different systems, parts of which have been fused into one living
+whole. In this respect they resemble our language, our blood, our
+literature, and our modes of thought and feeling. We find
+Christianity in one sense wholly original; in another sense
+composed of old materials; in both senses universal and
+cosmopolitan. The Roman element in Christmas is a remarkable
+instance of this acquisitive power of Christianity. The celebration
+of the festival takes place at the same time as that of the Pagan
+Saturnalia; and from the old customs of that holiday, Christmas
+absorbed much that was consistent with the spirit of the new
+religion. During the Saturnalia the world enjoyed, in thought at
+least, a perfect freedom. Men who had gone to bed as <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg027" id="pg027">27</a></span>slaves, rose
+their own masters. From the <i>ergastula</i> and dismal sunless
+cages they went forth to ramble in the streets and fields. Liberty
+of speech was given them, and they might satirise those vices of
+their lords to which, on other days, they had to minister. Rome on
+this day, by a strange negation of logic, which we might almost
+call a prompting of blind conscience, negatived the philosophic
+dictum that barbarians were by law of nature slaves, and
+acknowledged the higher principle of equality. The Saturnalia stood
+out from the whole year as a protest in favour of universal
+brotherhood, and the right that all men share alike to enjoy life
+after their own fashion, within the bounds that nature has assigned
+them. We do not know how far the Stoic school, which was so strong
+in Rome, and had so many points of contact with the Christians, may
+have connected its own theories of equality with this old custom of
+the Saturnalia. But it is possible that the fellowship of human
+beings, and the temporary abandonment of class prerogatives, became
+a part of Christmas through the habit of the Saturnalia. We are
+perhaps practising a Roman virtue to this day when at
+Christmas-time our hand is liberal, and we think it wrong that the
+poorest wretch should fail to feel the pleasure of the day.</p>
+
+<p>Of course Christianity inspired the freedom of the Saturnalia
+with a higher meaning. The mystery of the Incarnation, or the
+deification of human nature, put an end to slavery through all the
+year, as well as on this single day. What had been a kind of
+aimless licence became the most ennobling principle by which men
+are exalted to a state of self-respect and mutual reverence. Still
+in the Saturnalia was found, ready-made, an easy symbol of
+unselfish enjoyment. It is, however, dangerous to push speculations
+of this kind to the very verge of possibility.</p>
+
+<p>The early Roman Christians probably kept Christmas with <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg028" id="pg028">28</a></span>no special
+ceremonies. Christ was as yet too close to them. He had not become
+the glorious creature of their fancy, but was partly an historic
+being, partly confused in their imagination with reminiscences of
+Pagan deities. As the Good Shepherd, and as Orpheus, we find him
+painted in the Catacombs; and those who thought of him as God,
+loved to dwell upon his risen greatness more than on the idyll of
+his birth. To them his entry upon earth seemed less a subject of
+rejoicing than his opening of the heavens; they suffered, and
+looked forward to a future happiness; they would not seem to make
+this world permanent by sharing its gladness with the Heathens.
+Theirs, in truth, was a religion of hope and patience, not of
+triumphant recollection or of present joyfulness.</p>
+
+<p>The Northern converts of the early Church added more to the
+peculiar character of our Christmas. Who can tell what Pagan rites
+were half sanctified by their association with that season, or how
+much of our cheerfulness belonged to Heathen orgies and the
+banquets of grim warlike gods? Certainly nothing strikes one more
+in reading Scandinavian poetry, than the strange mixture of Pagan
+and Christian sentiments which it presents. For though the
+missionaries of the Church did all they could to wean away the
+minds of men from their old superstitions; yet, wiser than their
+modern followers, they saw that some things might remain untouched,
+and that even the great outlines of the Christian faith might be
+adapted to the habits of the people whom they studied to convert.
+Thus, on the one hand, they destroyed the old temples one by one,
+and called the idols by the name of devils, and strove to
+obliterate the songs which sang great deeds of bloody gods and
+heroes; while, on the other, they taught the Northern sea-kings
+that Jesus was a Prince surrounded by twelve dukes, who conquered
+all the world. <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg029" id=
+"pg029">29</a></span>Besides, they left the days of the week to
+their old patrons. It is certain that the imagination of the people
+preserved more of heathendom than even such missionaries could
+approve; mixing up the deeds of the Christian saints with old
+heroic legends; seeing Balder's beauty in Christ and the strength
+of Thor in Samson; attributing magic to S. John; swearing, as of
+old, bloody oaths in God's name, over the gilded boar's-head;
+burning the yule-log, and cutting sacred boughs to grace their
+new-built churches.</p>
+
+<p>The songs of choirs and sound of holy bells, and superstitious
+reverence for the mass, began to tell upon the people; and soon the
+echo of their old religion only swelled upon the ear at intervals,
+attaching itself to times of more than usual sanctity. Christmas
+was one of these times, and the old faith threw around its
+celebration a fantastic light. Many customs of the genial Pagan
+life remained; they seemed harmless when the sense of joy was
+Christian. The Druid's mistletoe graced the church porches of
+England and of France, and no blood lingered on its berries.
+Christmas thus became a time of extraordinary mystery. The people
+loved it as connecting their old life with the new religion,
+perhaps unconsciously, though every one might feel that Christmas
+was no common Christian feast. On its eve strange wonders happened:
+the thorn that sprang at Glastonbury from the sacred crown which
+Joseph brought with him from Palestine, when Avalon was still an
+island, blossomed on that day. The Cornish miners seemed to hear
+the sound of singing men arise from submerged churches by the
+shore, and others said that bells, beneath the ground where
+villages had been, chimed yearly on that eve. No evil thing had
+power, as Marcellus in 'Hamlet' tells us, and the bird of dawning
+crowed the whole night through. One might multiply folklore about
+the sanctity of Christmas, but enough has been said <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg030" id="pg030">30</a></span>to show that
+round it lingered long the legendary spirit of old Paganism. It is
+not to Jews, or Greeks, or Romans only that we owe our ancient
+Christmas fancies, but also to those half-heathen ancestors who
+lovingly looked back to Odin's days, and held the old while they
+embraced the new.</p>
+
+<p>Let us imagine Christmas Day in a medi&aelig;val town of
+Northern England. The cathedral is only partly finished. Its nave
+and transepts are the work of Norman architects, but the choir has
+been destroyed in order to be rebuilt by more graceful designers
+and more skilful hands. The old city is full of craftsmen,
+assembled to complete the church. Some have come as a religious
+duty, to work off their tale of sins by bodily labour. Some are
+animated by a love of art&mdash;simple men, who might have rivalled
+with the Greeks in ages of more cultivation. Others, again, are
+well-known carvers, brought for hire from distant towns and
+countries beyond the sea. But to-day, and for some days past, the
+sound of hammer and chisel has been silent in the choir. Monks have
+bustled about the nave, dressing it up with holly-boughs and bushes
+of yew, and preparing a stage for the sacred play they are going to
+exhibit on the feast day. Christmas is not like Corpus Christi, and
+now the market-place stands inches deep in snow, so that the
+Miracles must be enacted beneath a roof instead of in the open air.
+And what place so appropriate as the cathedral, where poor people
+may have warmth and shelter while they see the show? Besides, the
+gloomy old church, with its windows darkened by the falling snow,
+lends itself to candlelight effects that will enhance the splendour
+of the scene. Everything is ready. The incense of morning mass yet
+lingers round the altar. The voice of the friar who told the people
+from the pulpit the story of Christ's birth, has hardly ceased to
+echo. Time has just been given for a mid-day dinner, and for the
+shepherds and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg031" id=
+"pg031">31</a></span> farm lads to troop in from the country-side.
+The monks are ready at the wooden stage to draw its curtain, and
+all the nave is full of eager faces. There you may see the smith
+and carpenter, the butcher's wife, the country priest, and the grey
+cowled friar. Scores of workmen, whose home the cathedral for the
+time is made, are also here, and you may know the artists by their
+thoughtful foreheads and keen eyes. That young monk carved Madonna
+and her Son above the southern porch. Beside him stands the master
+mason, whose strong arms have hewn gigantic images of prophets and
+apostles for the pinnacles outside the choir; and the little man
+with cunning eyes between the two is he who cuts such quaint
+hobgoblins for the gargoyles. He has a vein of satire in him, and
+his humour overflows into the stone. Many and many a grim beast and
+hideous head has he hidden among vine-leaves and trellis-work upon
+the porches. Those who know him well are loth to anger him, for
+fear their sons and sons' sons should laugh at them for ever
+caricatured in solid stone.</p>
+
+<p>Hark! there sounds the bell. The curtain is drawn, and the
+candles blaze brightly round the wooden stage. What is this first
+scene? We have God in Heaven, dressed like a Pope with triple
+crown, and attended by his court of angels. They sing and toss up
+censers till he lifts his hand and speaks. In a long Latin speech
+he unfolds the order of creation and his will concerning man. At
+the end of it up leaps an ugly buffoon, in goatskin, with rams'
+horns upon his head. Some children begin to cry; but the older
+people laugh, for this is the Devil, the clown and comic character,
+who talks their common tongue, and has no reverence before the very
+throne of Heaven. He asks leave to plague men, and receives it;
+then, with many a curious caper, he goes down to Hell, beneath the
+stage. The angels sing and toss their censers as before, and the
+first scene closes to a sound of <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg032" id="pg032">32</a></span> organs. The next is more
+conventional, in spite of some grotesque incidents. It represents
+the Fall; the monks hurry over it quickly, as a tedious but
+necessary prelude to the birth of Christ. That is the true
+Christmas part of the ceremony, and it is understood that the best
+actors and most beautiful dresses are to be reserved for it. The
+builders of the choir in particular are interested in the coming
+scenes, since one of their number has been chosen, for his handsome
+face and tenor voice, to sing the angel's part. He is a young
+fellow of nineteen, but his beard is not yet grown, and long hair
+hangs down upon his shoulders. A chorister of the cathedral, his
+younger brother, will act the Virgin Mary. At last the curtain is
+drawn.</p>
+
+<p>We see a cottage-room, dimly lighted by a lamp, and Mary
+spinning near her bedside. She sings a country air, and goes on
+working, till a rustling noise is heard, more light is thrown upon
+the stage, and a glorious creature, in white raiment, with broad
+golden wings, appears. He bears a lily, and cries,&mdash;'Ave
+Maria, Gratia Plena!' She does not answer, but stands confused,
+with down-dropped eyes and timid mien. Gabriel rises from the
+ground and comforts her, and sings aloud his message of glad
+tidings. Then Mary gathers courage, and, kneeling in her turn,
+thanks God; and when the angel and his radiance disappears, she
+sings the song of the Magnificat clearly and simply, in the
+darkened room. Very soft and silver sounds this hymn through the
+great church. The women kneel, and children are hushed as by a
+lullaby. But some of the hinds and 'prentice lads begin to think it
+rather dull. They are not sorry when the next scene opens with a
+sheepfold and a little camp-fire. Unmistakable bleatings issue from
+the fold, and five or six common fellows are sitting round the
+blazing wood. One might fancy they had stepped straight from the
+church floor to the stage, so natural <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg033" id="pg033">33</a></span> do they look. Besides, they
+call themselves by common names&mdash;Colin, and Tom Lie-a-bed, and
+nimble Dick. Many a round laugh wakes echoes in the church when
+these shepherds stand up, and hold debate about a stolen sheep. Tom
+Lie-a-bed has nothing to remark but that he is very sleepy, and
+does not want to go in search of it to-night; Colin cuts jokes, and
+throws out shrewd suspicions that Dick knows something of the
+matter; but Dick is sly, and keeps them off the scent, although a
+few of his asides reveal to the audience that he is the real thief.
+While they are thus talking, silence falls upon the shepherds. Soft
+music from the church organ breathes, and they appear to fall
+asleep.</p>
+
+<p>The stage is now quite dark, and for a few moments the aisles
+echo only to the dying melody. When, behold, a ray of light is
+seen, and splendour grows around the stage from hidden candles, and
+in the glory Gabriel appears upon a higher platform made to look
+like clouds. The shepherds wake in confusion, striving to shelter
+their eyes from this unwonted brilliancy. But Gabriel waves his
+lily, spreads his great gold wings, and bids good cheer with
+clarion voice. The shepherds fall to worship, and suddenly round
+Gabriel there gathers a choir of angels, and a song of 'Gloria in
+Excelsis' to the sound of a deep organ is heard far off. From
+distant aisles it swells, and seems to come from heaven. Through a
+long resonant fugue the glory flies, and as it ceases with complex
+conclusion, the lights die out, the angels disappear, and Gabriel
+fades into the darkness. Still the shepherds kneel, rustically
+chanting a carol half in Latin, half in English, which begins 'In
+dulci Jubilo.' The people know it well, and when the chorus rises
+with 'Ubi sunt gaudia?' its wild melody is caught by voices up and
+down the nave. This scene makes deep impression upon many hearts;
+for the beauty of Gabriel is rare, and few who see him in his
+angel's dress <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg034" id=
+"pg034">34</a></span> would know him for the lad who daily carves
+his lilies and broad water-flags about the pillars of the choir. To
+that simple audience he interprets Heaven, and little children will
+see him in their dreams. Dark winter nights and awful forests will
+be trodden by his feet, made musical by his melodious voice, and
+parted by the rustling of his wings. The youth himself may return
+to-morrow to the workman's blouse and chisel, but his memory lives
+in many minds and may form a part of Christmas for the fancy of men
+as yet unborn.</p>
+
+<p>The next drawing of the curtain shows us the stable of Bethlehem
+crowned by its star. There kneels Mary, and Joseph leans upon his
+staff. The ox and ass are close at hand, and Jesus lies in jewelled
+robes on straw within the manger. To right and left bow the
+shepherds, worshipping in dumb show, while voices from behind chant
+a solemn hymn. In the midst of the melody is heard a flourish of
+trumpets, and heralds step upon the stage, followed by the three
+crowned kings. They have come from the far East, led by the star.
+The song ceases, while drums and fifes and trumpets play a stately
+march. The kings pass by, and do obeisance one by one. Each gives
+some costly gift; each doffs his crown and leaves it at the
+Saviour's feet. Then they retire to a distance and worship in
+silence like the shepherds. Again the angel's song is heard, and
+while it dies away the curtain closes, and the lights are put
+out.</p>
+
+<p>The play is over, and evening has come. The people must go from
+the warm church into the frozen snow, and crunch their homeward way
+beneath the moon. But in their minds they carry a sense of light
+and music and unearthly loveliness. Not a scene of this day's
+pageant will be lost. It grows within them and creates the poetry
+of Christmas. Nor must we forget the sculptors who listen to the
+play. We spoke of them minutely, because these mysteries sank deep
+into their <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg035" id=
+"pg035">35</a></span> souls and found a way into their carvings on
+the cathedral walls. The monk who made Madonna by the southern
+porch, will remember Gabriel, and place him bending low in lordly
+salutation by her side. The painted glass of the chapter-house will
+glow with fiery choirs of angels learned by heart that night. And
+who does not know the mocking devils and quaint satyrs that the
+humorous sculptor will carve among his fruits and flowers? Some of
+the misereres of the stalls still bear portraits of the shepherd
+thief, and of the ox and ass who blinked so blindly when the kings,
+by torchlight, brought their dazzling gifts. Truly these old
+miracle-plays, and the carved work of cunning hands that they
+inspired, are worth to us more than all the delicate creations of
+Italian pencils. Our homely Northern churches still retain, for the
+child who reads their bosses and their sculptured fronts, more
+Christmas poetry than we can find in Fra Angelico's devoutness or
+the liveliness of Giotto. Not that Southern artists have done
+nothing for our Christmas. Cimabue's gigantic angels at Assisi, and
+the radiant seraphs of Raphael or of Signorelli, were seen by
+Milton in his Italian journey. He gazed in Romish churches on
+graceful Nativities, into which Angelico and Credi threw their
+simple souls. How much they tinged his fancy we cannot say. But
+what we know of heavenly hierarchies we later men have learned from
+Milton; and what he saw he spoke, and what he spoke in sounding
+verse lives for us now and sways our reason, and controls our
+fancy, and makes fine art of high theology.</p>
+
+<p>Thus have I attempted rudely to recall a scene of medi&aelig;val
+Christmas. To understand the domestic habits of that age is not so
+easy, though one can fancy how the barons in their halls held
+Christmas, with the boar's head and the jester and the great
+yule-log. On the da&iuml;s sat lord and lady, waited on by knight
+and squire and page; but down the long <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg036" id="pg036">36</a></span> hall feasted yeomen and hinds
+and men-at-arms. Little remains to us of those days, and we have
+outworn their jollity. It is really from the Elizabethan poets that
+our sense of old-fashioned festivity arises. They lived at the end
+of one age and the beginning of another. Though born to inaugurate
+the new era, they belonged by right of association and sympathy to
+the period that was fleeting fast away. This enabled them to
+represent the poetry of past and present. Old customs and old
+states of feeling, when they are about to perish, pass into the
+realm of art. For art is like a flower, which consummates the plant
+and ends its growth, while it translates its nature into
+loveliness. Thus Dante and Lorenzetti and Orcagna enshrined
+medi&aelig;val theology in works of imperishable beauty, and
+Shakspere and his fellows made immortal the life and manners that
+were decaying in their own time. Men do not reflect upon their mode
+of living till they are passing from one state to another, and the
+consciousness of art implies a beginning of new things. Let one who
+wishes to appreciate the ideal of an English Christmas read
+Shakspere's song, 'When icicles hang by the wall;' and if he knows
+some old grey grange, far from the high-road, among pastures, with
+a river flowing near, and cawing rooks in elm-trees by the
+garden-wall, let him place Dick and Joan and Marian there.</p>
+
+<p>We have heard so much of pensioners, and barons of beef, and
+yule-logs, and bay, and rosemary, and holly boughs cut upon the
+hillside, and crab-apples bobbing in the wassail bowl, and masques
+and mummers, and dancers on the rushes, that we need not here
+describe a Christmas Eve in olden times. Indeed, this last half of
+the nineteenth century is weary of the worn-out theme. But one
+characteristic of the age of Elizabeth may be mentioned: that is
+its love of music. Fugued melodies, sung by voices without
+instruments, were <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg037" id=
+"pg037">37</a></span> much in vogue. We call them madrigals, and
+their half-merry, half-melancholy music yet recalls the time when
+England had her gift of art, when she needed not to borrow of
+Marenzio and Palestrina, when her Wilbyes and her Morlands and her
+Dowlands won the praise of Shakspere and the court. We hear the
+echo of those songs; and in some towns at Christmas or the New Year
+old madrigals still sound in praise of Oriana and of Phyllis and
+the country life. What are called 'waits' are but a poor travesty
+of those well-sung Elizabethan carols. We turn in our beds half
+pitying, half angered by harsh voices that quaver senseless ditties
+in the fog, or by tuneless fiddles playing popular airs without
+propriety or interest.</p>
+
+<p>It is a strange mixture of picturesquely blended elements which
+the Elizabethan age presents. We see it afar off like the meeting
+of a hundred streams that grow into a river. We are sailing on the
+flood long after it has shrunk into a single tide, and the banks
+are dull and tame, and the all-absorbing ocean is before us. Yet
+sometimes we hear a murmur of the distant fountains, and Christmas
+is a day on which for some the many waters of the age of great
+Elizabeth sound clearest.</p>
+
+<p>The age which followed was not poetical. The Puritans restrained
+festivity and art, and hated music. Yet from this period stands out
+the hymn of Milton, written when he was a youth, but bearing
+promise of his later muse. At one time, as we read it, we seem to
+be looking on a picture by some old Italian artist. But no picture
+can give Milton's music or make the 'base of heaven's deep organ
+blow.' Here he touches new associations, and reveals the realm of
+poetry which it remains for later times to traverse. Milton felt
+the true sentiment of Northern Christmas when he opened his poem
+with the 'winter wild,' in defiance of historical probability <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg038" id="pg038">38</a></span> and what
+the French call local colouring. Nothing shows how wholly we people
+of the North have appropriated Christmas, and made it a creature of
+our own imagination, more than this dwelling on winds and snows and
+bitter frosts, so alien from the fragrant nights of Palestine. But
+Milton's hymn is like a symphony, embracing many thoughts and
+periods of varying melody. The music of the seraphim brings to his
+mind the age of gold, and that suggests the judgment and the
+redemption of the world. Satan's kingdom fails, the false gods go
+forth, Apollo leaves his rocky throne, and all the dim Phoenician
+and Egyptian deities, with those that classic fancy fabled, troop
+away like ghosts into the darkness. What a swell of stormy sound is
+in those lines! It recalls the very voice of Pan, which went abroad
+upon the waters when Christ died, and all the utterances of God on
+earth, feigned in Delphian shrines, or truly spoken on the sacred
+hills, were mute for ever.</p>
+
+<p>After Milton came the age which, of all others, is the prosiest
+in our history. We cannot find much novelty of interest added to
+Christmas at this time. But there is one piece of poetry that
+somehow or another seems to belong to the reign of Anne and of the
+Georges&mdash;the poetry of bells. Great civic corporations reigned
+in those days; churchwardens tyrannised and were rich; and many a
+goodly chime of bells they hung in our old church-steeples. Let us
+go into the square room of the belfry, where the clock ticks all
+day, and the long ropes hang dangling down, with fur upon their
+hemp for ringers' hands above the socket set for ringers' feet.
+There we may read long lists of gilded names, recording mountainous
+bob-majors, rung a century ago, with special praise to him who
+pulled the tenor-bell, year after year, until he died, and left it
+to his son. The art of bell-ringing is profound, and requires a
+long apprenticeship. Even now, in some old cities, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg039" id="pg039">39</a></span> the ringers form
+a guild and mystery. Suppose it to be Christmas Eve in the year
+1772. It is now a quarter before twelve, and the sexton has
+unlocked the church-gates and set the belfry door ajar. Candles are
+lighted in the room above, and jugs of beer stand ready for the
+ringers. Up they bustle one by one, and listen to the tickings of
+the clock that tells the passing minutes. At last it gives a click;
+and now they throw off coat and waistcoat, strap their girdles
+tighter round the waist, and each holds his rope in readiness.
+Twelve o'clock strikes, and forth across the silent city go the
+clamorous chimes. The steeple rocks and reels, and far away the
+night is startled. Damp turbulent west winds, rushing from the
+distant sea, and swirling up the inland valleys, catch the sound,
+and toss it to and fro, and bear it by gusts and snatches to
+watchers far away, upon bleak moorlands and the brows of woody
+hills. Is there not something dim and strange in the thought of
+these eight men meeting, in the heart of a great city, in the
+narrow belfry-room, to stir a mighty sound that shall announce to
+listening ears miles, miles away, the birth of a new day, and tell
+to dancers, mourners, students, sleepers, and perhaps to dying men,
+that Christ is born?</p>
+
+<p>Let this association suffice for the time. And of our own
+Christmas so much has been said and sung by better voices, that we
+may leave it to the feelings and the memories of those who read the
+fireside tales of Dickens, and are happy in their homes. The many
+elements which I have endeavoured to recall, mix all of them in the
+Christmas of the present, partly, no doubt, under the form of vague
+and obscure sentiment; partly as time-honoured reminiscences,
+partly as a portion of our own life. But there is one phase of
+poetry which we enjoy more fully than any previous age. That is
+music. Music is of all the arts the youngest, and of all can free
+herself <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg040" id=
+"pg040">40</a></span> most readily from symbols. A fine piece of
+music moves before us like a living passion, which needs no form or
+colour, no interpreting associations, to convey its strong but
+indistinct significance. Each man there finds his soul revealed to
+him, and enabled to assume a cast of feeling in obedience to the
+changeful sound. In this manner all our Christmas thoughts and
+emotions have been gathered up for us by Handel in his drama of the
+'Messiah.' To Englishmen it is almost as well known and necessary
+as the Bible. But only one who has heard its pastoral episode
+performed year after year from childhood in the hushed cathedral,
+where pendent lamps or sconces make the gloom of aisle and choir
+and airy column half intelligible, can invest this music with long
+associations of accumulated awe. To his mind it brings a scene at
+midnight of hills clear in the starlight of the East, with white
+flocks scattered on the down. The breath of winds that come and go,
+the bleating of the sheep, with now and then a tinkling bell, and
+now and then the voice of an awakened shepherd, is all that breaks
+the deep repose. Overhead shimmer the bright stars, and low to west
+lies the moon, not pale and sickly (he dreams) as in our North, but
+golden, full, and bathing distant towers and tall a&euml;rial palms
+with floods of light. Such is a child's vision, begotten by the
+music of the symphony; and when he wakes from trance at its low
+silver close, the dark cathedral seems glowing with a thousand
+angel faces, and all the air is tremulous with angel wings. Then
+follow the solitary treble voice and the swift chorus.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg041" id=
+"pg041">41</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="SIENA" id="SIENA" /><i>SIENA</i></h3>
+
+<p>After leaving the valley of the Arno at Empoli, the railway
+enters a country which rises into earthy hills of no great height,
+and spreads out at intervals into broad tracts of cultivated
+lowland. Geologically speaking, this portion of Tuscany consists of
+loam and sandy deposits, forming the basin between two
+mountain-ranges&mdash;the Apennines and the chalk hills of the
+western coast of Central Italy. Seen from the eminence of some old
+Tuscan turret, this champaign country has a stern and arid aspect.
+The earth is grey and dusty, the forms of hill and valley are
+austere and monotonous; even the vegetation seems to sympathise
+with the uninteresting soil from which it springs. A few spare
+olives cast their shadows on the lower slopes; here and there a
+copse of oakwood and acacia marks the course of some small rivulet;
+rye-fields, grey beneath the wind, clothe the hillsides with scanty
+verdure. Every knoll is crowned with a village&mdash;brown roofs
+and white house-fronts clustered together on the edge of cliffs,
+and rising into the campanile or antique tower, which tells so many
+stories of bygone wars and decayed civilisations.</p>
+
+<p>Beneath these villages stand groups of stone pines clearly
+visible upon the naked country, cypresses like spires beside the
+square white walls of convent or of villa, patches of dark foliage,
+showing where the ilex and the laurel and the myrtle hide thick
+tangles of rose-trees and jessamines in ancient gardens. Nothing
+can exceed the barren aspect of this <a name="pg042" id=
+"pg042"></a><span class="pagenum">42</span> country in midwinter:
+it resembles an exaggerated Sussex, without verdure to relieve the
+rolling lines of down, and hill, and valley; beautiful yet, by
+reason of its frequent villages and lucid air and infinitely subtle
+curves of mountain-ridges. But when spring comes, a light and
+beauty break upon this gloomy soil; the whole is covered with a
+delicate green veil of rising crops and fresh foliage, and the
+immense distances which may be seen from every height are blue with
+cloud-shadows, or rosy in the light of sunset.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the towns of Lower Tuscany, none is more celebrated than
+Siena. It stands in the very centre of the district which I have
+attempted to describe, crowning one of its most considerable
+heights, and commanding one of its most extensive plains. As a city
+it is a typical representative of those numerous Italian towns,
+whose origin is buried in remote antiquity, which have formed the
+seat of three civilisations, and which still maintain a vigorous
+vitality upon their ancient soil. Its site is Etruscan, its name is
+Roman, but the town itself owes all its interest and beauty to the
+artists and the statesmen and the warriors of the middle ages. A
+single glance at Siena from one of the slopes on the northern side,
+will show how truly medi&aelig;val is its character. A city wall
+follows the outline of the hill, from which the towers of the
+cathedral and the palace, with other cupolas and red-brick
+campanili, spring; while cypresses and olive-gardens stretch
+downwards to the plain. There is not a single Palladian
+fa&ccedil;ade or Renaissance portico to interrupt the unity of the
+effect. Over all, in the distance, rises Monte Amiata melting
+imperceptibly into sky and plain.</p>
+
+<p>The three most striking objects of interest in Siena maintain
+the character of medi&aelig;val individuality by which the town is
+marked. They are the public palace, the cathedral, and the house of
+S. Catherine. The civil life, the arts, and <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg043" id="pg043">43</a></span> the religious
+tendencies of Italy during the ascendency of medi&aelig;val ideas,
+are strongly set before us here. High above every other building in
+the town soars the straight brick tower of the Palazzo Pubblico,
+the house of the republic, the hearth of civil life within the
+State. It guards an irregular Gothic building in which the old
+government of Siena used to be assembled, but which has now for a
+long time been converted into prisons, courts of law, and
+showrooms. Let us enter one chamber of the Palazzo&mdash;the Sala
+della Pace, where Ambrogio Lorenzetti, the greatest, perhaps, of
+Sienese painters, represented the evils of lawlessness and tyranny,
+and the benefits of peace and justice, in three noble allegories.
+They were executed early in the fourteenth century, in the age of
+allegories and symbolism, when poets and painters strove to
+personify in human shape all thoughts and sentiments. The first
+great fresco represents Peace&mdash;the peace of the Republic of
+Siena. Ambrogio has painted the twenty-four councillors who formed
+the Government, standing beneath the thrones of Concord, Justice,
+and Wisdom. From these controlling powers they stretch in a long
+double line to a seated figure, gigantic in size, and robed with
+the ensigns of baronial sovereignty. This figure is the State and
+Majesty of Siena.<a name="FNanchor_1_5" id="FNanchor_1_5" /><a
+href="#Footnote_1_5" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Around him
+sit Peace, Fortitude, and Prudence, <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg044" id="pg044">44</a></span> Temperance, Magnanimity, and
+Justice, inalienable assessors of a powerful and righteous lord.
+Faith, Hope, and Charity, the Christian virtues, float like angels
+in the air above. Armed horsemen guard his throne, and captives
+show that he has laid his enemy beneath his feet. Thus the
+medi&aelig;val artist expressed, by painting, his theory of
+government. The rulers of the State are subordinate to the State
+itself; they stand between the State and the great animating
+principles of wisdom, justice, and concord, incarnating the one,
+and receiving inspiration from the others. The pagan qualities of
+prudence, magnanimity, and courage give stability and greatness to
+good government, while the spirit of Christianity must harmonise
+and rule the whole. Arms, too, are needful to maintain by force
+what right and law demand, and victory in a just quarrel proclaims
+the power and vigour of the commonwealth. On another wall Ambrogio
+has depicted the prosperous city of Siena, girt by battlements and
+moat, with tower and barbican and drawbridge, to insure its peace.
+Through the gates stream country-people, bringing the produce of
+their farms into the town. The streets are crowded with men and
+women intent on business or pleasure; craftsmen at their trade,
+merchants with laden mules, a hawking party, hunters scouring the
+plain, girls dancing, and children playing in the open square. A
+school-master watching his class, together with the sculptured
+figures of Geometry, Astronomy, and Philosophy, remind us that
+education and science flourish under the dominion of well-balanced
+laws. The third fresco exhibits the reverse of this fair spectacle.
+Here Tyranny presides over a scene of anarchy and wrong. He is a
+hideous monster, compounded of all the bestial attributes which
+indicate force, treason, lechery, and fear. Avarice and Fraud and
+Cruelty and War and Fury sit around him. At his feet lies Justice,
+and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg045" id=
+"pg045">45</a></span> above are the effigies of Nero, Caracalla,
+and like monsters of ill-regulated power. Not far from the castle
+of Tyranny we see the same town as in the other fresco; but its
+streets are filled with scenes of quarrel, theft, and bloodshed.
+Nor are these allegories merely fanciful. In the middle ages the
+same city might more than once during one lifetime present in the
+vivid colours of reality the two contrasted pictures.<a name=
+"FNanchor_2_6" id="FNanchor_2_6" /><a href="#Footnote_2_6"
+class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_5" id="Footnote_1_5" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_5"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It is
+probable that the firm Ghibelline sympathies of the Sienese people
+for the Empire were allegorised in this figure; so that the fresco
+represented by form and colour what Dante had expressed in his
+treatise 'De Monarchi&acirc;.' Among the virtues who attend him,
+Peace distinguishes herself by rare and very remarkable beauty. She
+is dressed in white and crowned with olive; the folds of her
+drapery, clinging to the delicately modelled limbs beneath,
+irresistibly suggest a classic statue. So again does the monumental
+pose of her dignified, reclining, and yet languid figure. It seems
+not unreasonable to believe that Lorenzetti copied Peace from the
+antique Venus which belonged to the Sienese, and which in a fit of
+superstitious malice they subsequently destroyed and buried in
+Florentine soil.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_6" id="Footnote_2_6" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_6"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Siena,
+of all Italian cities, was most subject to revolutions. Comines
+describes it as a city which 'se gouverne plus follement que ville
+d'Italie.' Varchi calls it 'un guazzabuglio ed una confusione di
+repubbliche piuttosto che bene ordinata e instituta repubblica.'
+See my 'Age of the Despots' (<i>Renaissance in Italy</i>, Part I.),
+pp. 141, 554, for some account of the Sienese constitution, and of
+the feuds and reconciliations of the burghers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Quitting the Palazzo, and threading narrow streets, paved with
+brick and overshadowed with huge empty palaces, we reach the
+highest of the three hills on which Siena stands, and see before us
+the Duomo. This church is the most purely Gothic of all Italian
+cathedrals designed by national architects. Together with that of
+Orvieto, it stands to show what the unassisted genius of the
+Italians could produce, when under the empire of medi&aelig;val
+Christianity and before the advent of the neopagan spirit. It is
+built wholly of marble, and overlaid, inside and out, with florid
+ornaments of exquisite beauty. There are no flying buttresses, no
+pinnacles, no deep and fretted doorways, such as form the charm of
+French and English architecture; but instead of this, the lines of
+parti-coloured marbles, the scrolls and wreaths of foliage, the
+mosaics and the frescoes which meet the eye in every direction,
+satisfy our sense of variety, producing most agreeable combinations
+of blending hues and harmoniously connected forms. The chief fault
+which offends against our Northern taste is the predominance of
+horizontal lines, both in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg046"
+id="pg046">46</a></span> construction of the fa&ccedil;ade, and
+also in the internal decoration. This single fact sufficiently
+proves that the Italians had never seized the true idea of Gothic
+or aspiring architecture. But, allowing for this original defect,
+we feel that the Cathedral of Siena combines solemnity and
+splendour to a degree almost unrivalled. Its dome is another point
+in which the instinct of Italian architects has led them to adhere
+to the genius of their ancestral art rather than to follow the
+principles of Gothic design. The dome is Etruscan and Roman, native
+to the soil, and only by a kind of violence adapted to the
+character of pointed architecture. Yet the builders of Siena have
+shown what a glorious element of beauty might have been added to
+our Northern cathedrals, had the idea of infinity which our
+ancestors expressed by long continuous lines, by complexities of
+interwoven aisles, and by multitudinous aspiring pinnacles, been
+carried out into vast spaces of a&euml;rial cupolas, completing and
+embracing and covering the whole like heaven. The Duomo, as it now
+stands, forms only part of a vast design. On entering we are amazed
+to hear that this church, which looks so large, from the beauty of
+its proportions, the intricacy of its ornaments, and the
+interlacing of its columns, is but the transept of the intended
+building lengthened a little, and surmounted by a cupola and
+campanile.<a name="FNanchor_1_7" id="FNanchor_1_7" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_7" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Yet such is the
+fact. Soon after its commencement a plague swept over Italy, nearly
+depopulated Siena, and reduced the town to penury for want of men.
+The cathedral, which, had it been accomplished, would have
+surpassed all Gothic churches south of the Alps, remained a ruin. A
+fragment of the nave still stands, enabling us to judge of its
+extent. The eastern wall <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg047" id=
+"pg047">47</a></span> joins what was to have been the transept,
+measuring the mighty space which would have been enclosed by marble
+vaults and columns delicately wrought. The sculpture on the eastern
+door shows with what magnificence the Sienese designed to ornament
+this portion of their temple; while the southern fa&ccedil;ade
+rears itself aloft above the town, like those high arches which
+testify to the past splendour of Glastonbury Abbey; but the sun
+streams through the broken windows, and the walls are encumbered
+with hovels and stables and the refuse of surrounding streets.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_7" id="Footnote_1_7" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_7"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+present church was begun about 1229. In 1321 the burghers fancied
+it was too small for the fame and splendour of their city. So they
+decreed a new <i>ecclesia pulcra, magna, et magnifica</i>, for
+which the older but as yet unfinished building was to be the
+transept.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>One most remarkable feature of the internal decoration is a line
+of heads of the Popes carried all round the church above the lower
+arches. Larger than life, white solemn faces they lean, each from
+his separate niche, crowned with the triple tiara, and labelled
+with the name he bore. Their accumulated majesty brings the whole
+past history of the Church into the presence of its living members.
+A bishop walking up the nave of Siena must feel as a Roman felt
+among the waxen images of ancestors renowned in council or in war.
+Of course these portraits are imaginary for the most part; but the
+artists have contrived to vary their features and expression with
+great skill.</p>
+
+<p>Not less peculiar to Siena is the pavement of the cathedral. It
+is inlaid with a kind of <i>tarsia</i> work in stone, setting forth
+a variety of pictures in simple but eminently effective mosaic.
+Some of these compositions are as old as the cathedral; others are
+the work of Beccafumi and his scholars. They represent, in the
+liberal spirit of medi&aelig;val Christianity, the history of the
+Church before the Incarnation. Hermes Trismegistus and the Sibyls
+meet us at the doorway: in the body of the church we find the
+mighty deeds of the old Jewish heroes&mdash;of Moses and Samson and
+Joshua and Judith. Independently of the artistic beauty of the
+designs, of the skill <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg048" id=
+"pg048">48</a></span> with which men and horses are drawn in the
+most difficult attitudes, of the dignity of some single figures,
+and of the vigour and simplicity of the larger compositions, a
+special interest attaches to this pavement in connection with the
+twelfth canto of the 'Purgatorio.' Dante cannot have trodden these
+stones and meditated upon their sculptured histories. Yet when we
+read how he journeyed through the plain of Purgatory with eyes
+intent upon its storied floor, how 'morti i morti, e i vivi parean
+vivi,' how he saw 'Nimrod at the foot of his great work,
+confounded, gazing at the people who were proud with him,' we are
+irresistibly led to think of the Divine comedy. The strong and
+simple outlines of the pavement correspond to the few words of the
+poet. Bending over these pictures and trying to learn their lesson,
+with the thought of Dante in our mind, the tones of an organ,
+singularly sweet and mellow, fall upon our ears, and we remember
+how he heard <i>Te Deum</i> sung within the gateway of
+repentance.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing our walk, we descend the hill on which the Duomo
+stands, and reach a valley lying between the ancient city of Siena
+and a western eminence crowned by the church of San Domenico. In
+this depression there has existed from old time a kind of suburb or
+separate district of the poorer people known by the name of the
+Contrada d' Oca. To the Sienese it has especial interest, for here
+is the birthplace of S. Catherine, the very house in which she
+lived, her father's workshop, and the chapel which has been erected
+in commemoration of her saintly life. Over the doorway is written
+in letters of gold 'Sponsa Christi Katherin&aelig; domus.' Inside
+they show the room she occupied, and the stone on which she placed
+her head to sleep; they keep her veil and staff and lantern and
+enamelled vinaigrette, the bag in which her alms were placed, the
+sackcloth that she wore beneath her dress, the crucifix from which
+she took the wounds of Christ. It is impossible <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg049" id="pg049">49</a></span> to conceive,
+even after the lapse of several centuries, that any of these relics
+are fictitious. Every particular of her life was remembered and
+recorded with scrupulous attention by devoted followers. Her fame
+was universal throughout Italy before her death; and the house from
+which she went forth to preach and heal the sick and comfort
+plague-stricken wretches whom kith and kin had left alone to die,
+was known and well beloved by all her citizens. From the moment of
+her death it became, and has continued to be, the object of
+superstitious veneration to thousands. From the little loggia which
+runs along one portion of its exterior may be seen the campanile
+and the dome of the cathedral; on the other side rises the huge
+brick church of San Domenico, in which she spent the long ecstatic
+hours that won for her the title of Christ's spouse. In a chapel
+attached to the church she watched and prayed, fasting and
+wrestling with the fiends of a disordered fancy. There Christ
+appeared to her and gave her His own heart, there He administered
+to her the sacrament with His own hands, there she assumed the robe
+of poverty, and gave her Lord the silver cross and took from Him
+the crown of thorns.</p>
+
+<p>To some of us these legends may appear the flimsiest web of
+fiction: to others they may seem quite explicable by the laws of
+semi-morbid psychology; but to Catherine herself, her biographers,
+and her contemporaries, they were not so. The enthusiastic saint
+and reverent people believed firmly in these things; and, after the
+lapse of five centuries, her votaries still kiss the floor and
+steps on which she trod, still say, 'This was the wall on which she
+leant when Christ appeared; this was the corner where she clothed
+Him, naked and shivering like a beggar-boy; here He sustained her
+with angels' food.'</p>
+
+<p>S. Catherine was one of twenty-five children born in <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg050" id="pg050">50</a></span> wedlock to
+Jacopo and Lapa Benincasa, citizens of Siena. Her father exercised
+the trade of dyer and fuller. In the year of her birth, 1347, Siena
+reached the climax of its power and splendour. It was then that the
+plague of Boccaccio began to rage, which swept off 80,000 citizens,
+and interrupted the building of the great Duomo. In the midst of so
+large a family, and during these troubled times, Catherine grew
+almost unnoticed; but it was not long before she manifested her
+peculiar disposition. At six years old she already saw visions and
+longed for a monastic life: about the same time she used to collect
+her childish companions together and preach to them. As she grew,
+her wishes became stronger; she refused the proposals which her
+parents made that she should marry, and so vexed them by her
+obstinacy that they imposed on her the most servile duties in their
+household. These she patiently fulfilled, pursuing at the same time
+her own vocation with unwearied ardour. She scarcely slept at all,
+and ate no food but vegetables and a little bread, scourged
+herself, wore sackcloth, and became emaciated, weak, and half
+delirious. At length the firmness of her character and the force of
+her hallucinations won the day. Her parents consented to her
+assuming the Dominican robe, and at the age of thirteen she entered
+the monastic life. From this moment till her death we see in her
+the ecstatic, the philanthropist, and the politician combined to a
+remarkable degree. For three whole years she never left her cell
+except to go to church, maintaining an almost unbroken silence. Yet
+when she returned to the world, convinced at last of having won by
+prayer and pain the favour of her Lord, it was to preach to
+infuriated mobs, to toil among men dying of the plague, to execute
+diplomatic negotiations, to harangue the republic of Florence, to
+correspond with queens, and to interpose between kings and popes.
+In the midst of this varied and <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg051" id="pg051">51</a></span> distracting career she continued
+to see visions and to fast and scourge herself. The domestic
+virtues and the personal wants and wishes of a woman were
+annihilated in her: she lived for the Church, for the poor, and for
+Christ, whom she imagined to be constantly supporting her. At
+length she died, worn out by inward conflicts, by the tension of
+religious ecstasy, by want of food and sleep, and by the excitement
+of political life. To follow her in her public career is not my
+purpose. It is well known how, by the power of her eloquence and
+the ardour of her piety, she succeeded as a mediator between
+Florence and her native city, and between Florence and the Pope;
+that she travelled to Avignon, and there induced Gregory XI. to put
+an end to the Babylonian captivity of the Church by returning to
+Rome; that she narrowly escaped political martyrdom during one of
+her embassies from Gregory to the Florentine republic; that she
+preached a crusade against the Turks; that her last days were
+clouded with sorrow for the schism which then rent the Papacy; and
+that she aided by her dying words to keep Pope Urban on the Papal
+throne. When we consider her private and spiritual life more
+narrowly, it may well move our amazement to think that the
+intricate politics of Central Italy, the counsels of licentious
+princes and ambitious Popes, were in any measure guided and
+controlled by such a woman. Alone, and aided by nothing but a
+reputation for sanctity, she dared to tell the greatest men in
+Europe of their faults; she wrote in words of well-assured command,
+and they, demoralised, worldly, sceptical, or indifferent as they
+might be, were yet so bound by superstition that they could not
+treat with scorn the voice of an enthusiastic girl.</p>
+
+<p>Absolute disinterestedness, the belief in her own spiritual
+mission, natural genius, and that vast power which then belonged to
+all energetic members of the monastic orders, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg052" id="pg052">52</a></span> enabled her to
+play this part. She had no advantages to begin with. The daughter
+of a tradesman overwhelmed with an almost fabulously numerous
+progeny, Catherine grew up uneducated. When her genius had attained
+maturity, she could not even read or write. Her biographer asserts
+that she learned to do so by a miracle. Anyhow, writing became a
+most potent instrument in her hands; and we possess several volumes
+of her epistles, as well as a treatise of mystical theology. To
+conquer self-love as the root of all evil, and to live wholly for
+others, was the cardinal axiom of her morality. She pressed this
+principle to its most rigorous conclusions in practice; never
+resting day or night from some kind of service, and winning by her
+unselfish love the enthusiastic admiration of the people. In the
+same spirit of exalted self-annihilation, she longed for martyrdom,
+and courted death. There was not the smallest personal tie or
+afterthought of interest to restrain her in the course of action
+which she had marked out. Her personal influence seems to have been
+immense. When she began her career of public peacemaker and
+preacher in Siena, Raymond, her biographer, says that whole
+families devoted to <i>vendetta</i> were reconciled, and that civil
+strifes were quelled by her letters and addresses. He had seen more
+than a thousand people flock to hear her speak; the confessionals
+crowded with penitents, smitten by the force of her appeals; and
+multitudes, unable to catch the words which fell from her lips,
+sustained and animated by the light of holiness which beamed from
+her inspired countenance.<a name="FNanchor_1_8" id=
+"FNanchor_1_8" /><a href="#Footnote_1_8" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> She was not beautiful, but her face so shone
+with love, and her eloquence was so pathetic in its tenderness,
+that none could hear or look on her without emotion. Her writings
+contain <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg053" id=
+"pg053">53</a></span> abundant proofs of this peculiar suavity.
+They are too sweet and unctuous in style to suit our modern taste.
+When dwelling on the mystic love of Christ she cries, 'O blood! O
+fire! O ineffable love!' When interceding before the Pope, she
+prays for 'Pace, pace, pace, babbo mio dolce; pace, e non
+pi&ugrave; guerra.' Yet clear and simple thoughts, profound
+convictions, and stern moral teaching underlie her ecstatic
+exclamations. One prayer which she wrote, and which the people of
+Siena still use, expresses the prevailing spirit of her creed: 'O
+Spirito Santo, o Deit&agrave; eterna Cristo Amore! vieni nel mio
+cuore; per la tua potenza trailo a Te, mio Dio, e concedemi
+carit&agrave; con timore. Liberami, o Amore ineffabile, da ogni mal
+pensiero; riscaldami ed infiammami del tuo dolcissimo amore,
+sicch&egrave; ogni pena mi sembri leggiera. Santo mio Padre e dolce
+mio Signore, ora aiutami in ogni mio ministero. Cristo amore.
+Cristo amore.' The reiteration of the word 'love' is most
+significant. It was the key-note of her whole theology, the
+mainspring of her life. In no merely figurative sense did she
+regard herself as the spouse of Christ, but dwelt upon the bliss,
+beyond all mortal happiness, which she enjoyed in supersensual
+communion with her Lord. It is easy to understand how such ideas
+might be, and have been, corrupted, when impressed on natures no
+less susceptible, but weaker and less gifted than S.
+Catherine's.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_8" id="Footnote_1_8" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_8"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The part
+played in Italy by preachers of repentance and peace is among the
+most characteristic features of Italian history. On this subject
+see the Appendix to my 'Age of the Despots,' <i>Renaissance in
+Italy</i>, Part I.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>One incident related by Catherine in a letter to Raymond, her
+confessor and biographer, exhibits the peculiar character of her
+influence in the most striking light. Nicola Tuldo, a citizen of
+Perugia, had been condemned to death for treason in the flower of
+his age. So terribly did the man rebel against his sentence, that
+he cursed God, and refused the consolations of religion. Priests
+visited him in vain; his heart was shut and sealed by the despair
+of leaving life in all <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg054" id=
+"pg054">54</a></span> the vigour of its prime. Then Catherine came
+and spoke to him: 'whence,' she says, 'he received such comfort
+that he confessed, and made me promise, by the love of God, to
+stand at the block beside him on the day of his execution.' By a
+few words, by the tenderness of her manner, and by the charm which
+women have, she had already touched the heart no priest could
+soften, and no threat of death or judgment terrify into contrition.
+Nor was this strange. In our own days we have seen men open the
+secrets of their hearts to women, after repelling the advances of
+less touching sympathy. Youths, cold and cynical enough among their
+brethren, have stood subdued like little children before her who
+spoke to them of love and faith and penitence and hope. The world
+has not lost its ladies of the race of S. Catherine, beautiful and
+pure and holy, who have suffered and sought peace with tears, and
+who have been appointed ministers of mercy for the worst and
+hardest of their fellow-men. Such saints possess an efficacy even
+in the imposition of their hands; many a devotee, like Tuldo, would
+more willingly greet death if his S. Catherine were by to smile and
+lay her hands upon his head, and cry, 'Go forth, my servant, and
+fear not!' The chivalrous admiration for women mixes with religious
+awe to form the reverence which these saints inspire. Human and
+heavenly love, chaste and ecstatic, constitute the secret of their
+power. Catherine then subdued the spirit of Tuldo and led him to
+the altar, where he received the communion for the first time in
+his life. His only remaining fear was that he might not have
+strength to face death bravely. Therefore he prayed Catherine,
+'Stay with me, do not leave me; so it shall be well with me, and I
+shall die contented;' 'and,' says the saint, 'he laid his head in
+the prison on my breast, and I said, "Comfort thee, my brother, the
+block shall soon become thy marriage altar, the blood of Christ
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg055" id="pg055">55</a></span>
+shall bathe thy sins away, and I will stand beside thee."' When the
+hour came, she went and waited for him by the scaffold, meditating
+on Madonna and Catherine the saint of Alexandria. She laid her own
+neck on the block, and tried to picture to herself the pains and
+ecstasies of martyrdom. In her deep thought, time and place became
+annihilated; she forgot the eager crowd, and only prayed for
+Tuldo's soul and for herself. At length he came, walking 'like a
+gentle lamb,' and Catherine received him with the salutation of
+'sweet brother.' She placed his head upon the block, and laid her
+hands upon him, and told him of the Lamb of God. The last words he
+uttered were the names of Jesus and of Catherine. Then the axe
+fell, and Catherine beheld his soul borne by angels into the
+regions of eternal love. When she recovered from her trance, she
+held his head within her hands; her dress was saturated with his
+blood, which she could scarcely bear to wash away, so deeply did
+she triumph in the death of him whom she had saved. The words of S.
+Catherine herself deserve to be read. The simplicity, freedom from
+self-consciousness, and fervent faith in the reality of all she did
+and said and saw, which they exhibit, convince us of her entire
+sincerity.</p>
+
+<p>The supernatural element in the life of S. Catherine may be
+explained partly by the mythologising adoration of the people ready
+to find a miracle in every act of her they worshipped&mdash;partly
+by her own temperament and modes of life, which inclined her to
+ecstasy and fostered the faculty of seeing visions&mdash;partly by
+a pious misconception of the words of Christ and Bible
+phraseology.</p>
+
+<p>To the first kind belong the wonders which are related of her
+early years, the story of the candle which burnt her veil without
+injuring her person, and the miracles performed by her body after
+death. Many childish incidents were <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg056" id="pg056">56</a></span> treasured up which, had her life
+proved different, would have been forgotten, or have found their
+proper place among the catalogue of common things. Thus on one
+occasion, after hearing of the hermits of the Theba&iuml;d, she
+took it into her head to retire into the wilderness, and chose for
+her dwelling one of the caverns in the sandstone rock which abound
+in Siena near the quarter where her father lived. We merely see in
+this event a sign of her monastic disposition, and a more than
+usual aptitude for realising the ideas presented to her mind. But
+the old biographers relate how one celestial vision urged the
+childish hermit to forsake the world, and another bade her return
+to the duties of her home.</p>
+
+<p>To the second kind we may refer the frequent communings with
+Christ and with the fathers of the Church, together with the other
+visions to which she frequently laid claim: nor must we omit the
+stigmata which she believed she had received from Christ. Catherine
+was constitutionally inclined to hallucinations. At the age of six,
+before it was probable that a child should have laid claim to
+spiritual gifts which she did not possess, she burst into loud
+weeping because her little brother rudely distracted her attention
+from the brilliant forms of saints and angels which she traced
+among the clouds. Almost all children of a vivid imagination are
+apt to transfer the objects of their fancy to the world without
+them. Goethe walked for hours in his enchanted gardens as a boy,
+and Alfieri tells us how he saw a company of angels in the
+choristers at Asti. Nor did S. Catherine omit any means of
+cultivating this faculty, and of preventing her splendid visions
+from fading away, as they almost always do, beneath the discipline
+of intellectual education and among the distractions of daily life.
+Believing simply in their heavenly origin, and receiving no secular
+training whatsoever, she walked surrounded by a spiritual world,
+environed, as her legend says, by angels. Her <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg057" id="pg057">57</a></span> habits were
+calculated to foster this disposition: it is related that she took
+but little sleep, scarcely more than two hours at night, and that
+too on the bare ground; she ate nothing but vegetables and the
+sacred wafer of the host, entirely abjuring the use of wine and
+meat. This diet, combined with frequent fasts and severe ascetic
+discipline, depressed her physical forces, and her nervous system
+was thrown into a state of the highest exaltation. Thoughts became
+things, and ideas were projected from her vivid fancy upon the
+empty air around her. It was therefore no wonder that, after
+spending long hours in vigils and meditating always on the thought
+of Christ, she should have seemed to take the sacrament from His
+hands, to pace the chapel in communion with Him, to meet Him in the
+form of priest and beggar, to hear Him speaking to her as a friend.
+Once when the anguish of sin had plagued her with disturbing
+dreams, Christ came and gave her His own heart in exchange for
+hers. When lost in admiration before the cross at Pisa, she saw His
+five wounds stream with blood&mdash;five crimson rays smote her,
+passed into her soul, and left their marks upon her hands and feet
+and side. The light of Christ's glory shone round about her, she
+partook of His martyrdom, and awaking from her trance she cried to
+Raymond, 'Behold! I bear in my body the marks of the Lord
+Jesus!'</p>
+
+<p>This miracle had happened to S. Francis. It was regarded as the
+sign of fellowship with Christ, of worthiness to drink His cup, and
+to be baptised with His baptism. We find the same idea at least in
+the old Latin hymns:</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i11">Fac me plagis vulnerari&mdash;</div>
+
+<div class="i11">Cruce hac inebriari&mdash;</div>
+
+<div class="i11">Fac ut portem Christi mortem,</div>
+
+<div class="i11">Passionis fac consortem,</div>
+
+<div class="i11">Et plagas recolere.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg058" id="pg058">58</a></span>
+These are words from the 'Stabat Mater;' nor did S. Francis and S.
+Catherine do more than carry into the vividness of actual
+hallucination what had been the poetic rapture of many less
+ecstatic, but not less ardent, souls. They desired to be
+<i>literally</i> 'crucified with Christ;' they were not satisfied
+with metaphor or sentiment, and it seemed to them that their Lord
+had really vouchsafed to them the yearning of their heart. We need
+not here raise the question whether the stigmata had ever been
+actually self-inflicted by delirious saint or hermit: it was not
+pretended that the wounds of S. Catherine were visible during her
+lifetime. After her death the faithful thought that they had seen
+them on her corpse, and they actually appeared in the relics of her
+hands and feet. The pious fraud, if fraud there must have been,
+should be ascribed, not to the saint herself, but to devotees and
+relic-mongers.<a name="FNanchor_1_9" id="FNanchor_1_9" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_9" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The order of S.
+Dominic would not be behind that of S. Francis. If the latter
+boasted of their stigmata, the former would be ready to perforate
+the hand or foot of their dead saint. Thus the ecstasies of genius
+or devotion are brought to earth, and rendered vulgar by mistaken
+piety and the rivalry of sects. The people put the most material
+construction on all tropes and metaphors: above the door of S.
+Catherine's chapel at Siena, for example, it is written&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">H&aelig;c tenet ara caput Catharin&aelig;; corda
+requiris?</div>
+
+<div class="i2">H&aelig;c imo Christus pectore clausa tenet.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The frequent conversations which she held with S. Dominic and
+other patrons of the Church, and her supernatural marriage, must be
+referred to the same category. Strong faith, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg059" id="pg059">59</a></span> and constant
+familiarity with one order of ideas, joined with a creative power
+of fancy, and fostered by physical debility, produced these
+miraculous colloquies. Early in her career, her injured
+constitution, resenting the violence with which it had been forced
+to serve the ardours of her piety, troubled her with foul phantoms,
+haunting images of sin and seductive whisperings, which clearly
+revealed a morbid condition of the nervous system. She was on the
+verge of insanity. The reality of her inspiration and her genius
+are proved by the force with which her human sympathies, and moral
+dignity, and intellectual vigour triumphed over these diseased
+hallucinations of the cloister, and converted them into the
+instruments for effecting patriotic and philanthropic designs.
+There was nothing savouring of mean pretension or imposture in her
+claim to supernatural enlightenment. Whatever we may think of the
+wisdom of her public policy with regard to the Crusades and to the
+Papal Sovereignty, it is impossible to deny that a holy and high
+object possessed her from the earliest to the latest of her
+life&mdash;that she lived for ideas greater than
+self-aggrandisement or the saving of her soul, for the greatest,
+perhaps, which her age presented to an earnest Catholic.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_9" id="Footnote_1_9" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_9"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It is
+not impossible that the stigmata may have been naturally produced
+in the person of S. Francis or S. Catherine. There are cases on
+record in which grave nervous disturbances have resulted in such
+modifications of the flesh as may have left the traces of wounds in
+scars and blisters.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The abuses to which the indulgence of temperaments like that of
+S. Catherine must in many cases have given rise, are obvious.
+Hysterical women and half-witted men, without possessing her
+abilities and understanding her objects, beheld unmeaning visions,
+and dreamed childish dreams. Others won the reputation of sanctity
+by obstinate neglect of all the duties of life and of all the
+decencies of personal cleanliness. Every little town in Italy could
+show its saints like the Santa Fina of whom San Gemignano
+boasts&mdash;a girl who lay for seven years on a back-board till
+her mortified flesh clung to the wood; or the San Bartolo, who, for
+hideous leprosy, received <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg060" id=
+"pg060">60</a></span> the title of the Job of Tuscany. Children
+were encouraged in blasphemous pretensions to the special power of
+Heaven, and the nerves of weak women were shaken by revelations in
+which they only half believed. We have ample evidence to prove how
+the trade of miracles is still carried on, and how in the France of
+our days, when intellectual vigour has been separated from old
+forms of faith, such vision-mongering undermines morality,
+encourages ignorance, and saps the force of individuals. But S.
+Catherine must not be confounded with those sickly shams and
+make-believes. Her enthusiasms were real; they were proper to her
+age; they inspired her with unrivalled self-devotion and unwearied
+energy; they connected her with the political and social movements
+of her country.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the supernatural events in S. Catherine's life were
+founded on a too literal acceptation of biblical metaphors. The
+Canticles, perhaps, inspired her with the belief in a mystical
+marriage. An enigmatical sentence of S. Paul's suggested the
+stigmata. When the saint bestowed her garment upon Christ in the
+form of a beggar and gave Him the silver cross of her rosary, she
+was but realising His own words: 'Inasmuch as ye shall do it unto
+the least of these little ones, ye shall do it unto Me.' Charity,
+according to her conception, consisted in giving to Christ. He had
+first taught this duty; He would make it the test of all duty at
+the last day. Catherine was charitable for the love of Christ. She
+thought less of the beggar than of her Lord. How could she do
+otherwise than see the aureole about His forehead, and hear the
+voice of Him who had declared, 'Behold, I am with you, even to the
+end of the world.' Those were times of childlike simplicity when
+the eye of love was still unclouded, when men could see beyond the
+phantoms of this world, and stripping off the accidents of matter,
+gaze upon the spiritual and eternal truths <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg061" id="pg061">61</a></span> that lie beneath. Heaven lay
+around them in that infancy of faith; nor did they greatly differ
+from the saints and founders of the Church&mdash;from Paul, who saw
+the vision of the Lord, or Magdalen, who cried, 'He is risen!' An
+age accustomed to veil thought in symbols, easily reversed the
+process and discerned essential qualities beneath the common or
+indifferent objects of the outer world. It was therefore Christ
+whom S. Christopher carried in the shape of a child; Christ whom
+Fra Angelico's Dominicans received in pilgrim's garb at their
+convent gate; Christ with whom, under a leper's loathsome form, the
+flower of Spanish chivalry was said to have shared his couch.</p>
+
+<p>In all her miracles it will be noticed that S. Catherine showed
+no originality. Her namesake of Alexandria had already been
+proclaimed the spouse of Christ. S. Francis had already received
+the stigmata; her other visions were such as had been granted to
+all fervent mystics; they were the growth of current religious
+ideas and unbounded faith. It is not as an innovator in religious
+ecstasy, or as the creator of a new kind of spiritual poetry, that
+we admire S. Catherine. Her inner life was simply the foundation of
+her character, her visions were a source of strength to her in
+times of trial, or the expression of a more than usually exalted
+mood; but the means by which she moved the hearts of men belonged
+to that which she possessed in common with all leaders of
+mankind&mdash;enthusiasm, eloquence, the charm of a gracious
+nature, and the will to do what she designed. She founded no
+religious order, like S. Francis or S. Dominic, her predecessors,
+or Loyola, her successor. Her work was a woman's work&mdash;to make
+peace, to succour the afflicted, to strengthen the Church, to
+purify the hearts of those around her; not to rule or organise.
+When she died she left behind her a memory of love more than of
+power, the fragrance of an unselfish and <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg062" id="pg062">62</a></span> gentle life, the echo of
+sweet and earnest words. Her place is in the heart of the humble;
+children belong to her sisterhood, and the poor crowd her shrine on
+festivals.</p>
+
+<p>Catherine died at Rome on the 29th of April 1380, in her
+thirty-third year, surrounded by the most faithful of her friends
+and followers; but it was not until 1461 that she received the last
+honour of canonisation from the hands of Pius II., &AElig;neas
+Sylvius, her countryman. &AElig;eneas Sylvius Piccolomini was
+perhaps the most remarkable man that Siena has produced. Like S.
+Catherine, he was one of a large family; twenty of his brothers and
+sisters perished in a plague. The licentiousness of his early life,
+the astuteness of his intellect, and the worldliness of his aims,
+contrast with the singularly disinterested character of the saint
+on whom he conferred the highest honours of the Church. But he
+accomplished by diplomacy and skill what Catherine had begun. If
+she was instrumental in restoring the Popes to Rome, he ended the
+schism which had clouded her last days. She had preached a crusade;
+he lived to assemble the armies of Christendom against the Turks,
+and died at Ancona, while it was still uncertain whether the
+authority and enthusiasm of a pope could steady the wavering
+counsels and vacillating wills of kings and princes. The middle
+ages were still vital in S. Catherine; Pius II. belonged by taste
+and genius to the new period of Renaissance. The hundreds of the
+poorer Sienese who kneel before S. Catherine's shrine prove that
+her memory is still alive in the hearts of her fellow-citizens;
+while the gorgeous library of the cathedral, painted by the hand of
+Pinturicchio, the sumptuous palace and the Loggia del Papa designed
+by Bernardo Rossellino and Antonio Federighi, record the pride and
+splendour of the greatest of the Piccolomini. But honourable as it
+was for Pius to fill so high a place in the annals of his city; to
+have left it as a poor adventurer, to return to it first as bishop,
+then <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg063" id="pg063">63</a></span>
+as pope: to have a chamber in its mother church adorned with the
+pictured history of his achievements for a monument, and a triumph
+of Renaissance architecture dedicated to his family, <i>gentilibus
+suis</i>&mdash;yet we cannot but feel that the better part remains
+with S. Catherine, whose prayer is still whispered by children on
+their mother's knee, and whose relics are kissed daily by the
+simple and devout.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the chief Italian painters have represented the
+incidents of S. Catherine's life and of her mystical experience.
+All the pathos and beauty which we admire in Sodoma's S. Sebastian
+at Florence, are surpassed by his fresco of S. Catherine receiving
+the stigmata. This is one of several subjects painted by him on the
+walls of her chapel in San Domenico. The tender unction, the
+sweetness, the languor, and the grace which he commanded with such
+admirable mastery, are all combined in the figure of the saint
+falling exhausted into the arms of her attendant nuns. Soft
+undulating lines rule the composition; yet dignity of attitude and
+feature prevails over mere loveliness. Another of Siena's greatest
+masters, Beccafumi, has treated the same subject with less
+pictorial skill and dramatic effect, but with an earnestness and
+simplicity that are very touching. Colourists always liked to
+introduce the sweeping lines of her white robes into their
+compositions. Fra Bartolommeo, who showed consummate art by
+tempering the masses of white drapery with mellow tones of brown or
+amber, painted one splendid picture of the marriage of S.
+Catherine, and another in which he represents her prostrate in
+adoration before the mystery of the Trinity. His gentle and devout
+soul sympathised with the spirit of the saint. The fervour of her
+devotion belonged to him more truly than the leonine power which he
+unsuccessfully attempted to express in his large figure of S. Mark.
+Other artists have painted the two Catherines <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg064" id="pg064">64</a></span>
+together&mdash;the princess of Alexandria, crowned and robed in
+purple, bearing her palm of martyrdom, beside the nun of Siena,
+holding in her hand the lantern with which she went about by night
+among the sick. Ambrogio Borgognone makes them stand one on each
+side of Madonna's throne, while the infant Christ upon her lap
+extends His hands to both, in token of their marriage.</p>
+
+<p>The traditional type of countenance which may be traced in all
+these pictures is not without a real foundation. Not only does
+there exist at Siena, in the Church of San Domenico, a contemporary
+portrait of S. Catherine, but her head also, which was embalmed
+immediately after death, is still preserved. The skin of the face
+is fair and white, like parchment, and the features have more the
+air of sleep than death. We find in them the breadth and squareness
+of general outline, and the long, even eyebrows which give peculiar
+calm to the expression of her pictures. This relic is shown
+publicly once a year on the 6th of May. That is the Festa of the
+saint, when a procession of priests and acolytes, and pious people
+holding tapers, and little girls dressed out in white, carry a
+splendid silver image of their patroness about the city. Banners
+and crosses and censers go in front; then follows the shrine
+beneath a canopy: roses and leaves of box are scattered on the
+path. The whole Contrada d'Oca is decked out with such finery as
+the people can muster: red cloths hung from the windows, branches
+and garlands strewn about the doorsteps, with brackets for torches
+on the walls, and altars erected in the middle of the street.
+Troops of country-folk and townspeople and priests go in and out to
+visit the cell of S. Catherine; the upper and the lower chapel,
+built upon its site, and the hall of the
+<i>confraternit&agrave;</i> blaze with lighted tapers. The
+faithful, full of wonder, kneel or stand about the 'santi luoghi,'
+marvelling at the relics, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg065"
+id="pg065">65</a></span> repeating to one another the miracles of
+the saint. The same bustle pervades the Church of San Domenico.
+Masses are being said at one or other chapel all the morning, while
+women in their flapping Tuscan hats crowd round the silver image of
+S. Catherine, and say their prayers with a continual undercurrent
+of responses to the nasal voice of priest or choir. Others gain
+entrance to the chapel of the saint, and kneel before her altar.
+There, in the blaze of sunlight and of tapers, far away behind the
+gloss and gilding of a tawdry shrine, is seen the pale, white face
+which spoke and suffered so much, years ago. The contrast of its
+rigid stillness and half-concealed corruption with the noise and
+life and light outside is very touching. Even so the remnant of a
+dead idea still stirs the souls of thousands, and many ages may
+roll by before time and oblivion assert their inevitable sway.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg066" id=
+"pg066">66</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="OLIVETO" id="OLIVETO" /><i>MONTE OLIVETO</i></h3>
+
+<h3>I</h3>
+
+<p>In former days the traveller had choice of two old hostelries in
+the chief street of Siena. Here, if he was fortunate, he might
+secure a prophet's chamber, with a view across tiled houseroofs to
+the distant Tuscan champaign&mdash;glimpses of russet field and
+olive-garden framed by jutting city walls, which in some measure
+compensated for much discomfort. He now betakes himself to the more
+modern Albergo di Siena, overlooking the public promenade La Lizza.
+Horse-chestnuts and acacias make a pleasant foreground to a
+prospect of considerable extent. The front of the house is turned
+toward Belcaro and the mountains between Grosseto and Volterra.
+Sideways its windows command the brown bulk of San Domenico, and
+the Duomo, set like a marble coronet upon the forehead of the town.
+When we arrived there one October afternoon the sun was setting
+amid flying clouds and watery yellow spaces of pure sky, with a
+wind blowing soft and humid from the sea. Long after he had sunk
+below the hills, a fading chord of golden and rose-coloured tints
+burned on the city. The cathedral bell tower was glistening with
+recent rain, and we could see right through its lancet windows to
+the clear blue heavens beyond. Then, as the day descended into
+evening, the autumn trees assumed that wonderful effect of
+luminousness self-evolved, <a name="pg067" id="pg067"></a><span
+class="pagenum">67</span> and the red brick walls that crimson
+afterglow, which Tuscan twilight takes from singular transparency
+of atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>It is hardly possible to define the specific character of each
+Italian city, assigning its proper share to natural circumstances,
+to the temper of the population, and to the monuments of art in
+which these elements of nature and of human qualities are blended.
+The fusion is too delicate and subtle for complete analysis; and
+the total effect in each particular case may best be compared to
+that impressed on us by a strong personality, making itself felt in
+the minutest details. Climate, situation, ethnological conditions,
+the political vicissitudes of past ages, the bias of the people to
+certain industries and occupations, the emergence of distinguished
+men at critical epochs, have all contributed their quota to the
+composition of an individuality which abides long after the
+locality has lost its ancient vigour.</p>
+
+<p>Since the year 1557, when Gian Giacomo de' Medici laid the
+country of Siena waste, levelled her luxurious suburbs, and
+delivered her famine-stricken citizens to the tyranny of the Grand
+Duke Cosimo, this town has gone on dreaming in suspended decadence.
+Yet the epithet which was given to her in her days of glory, the
+title of 'Fair Soft Siena,' still describes the city. She claims it
+by right of the gentle manners, joyous but sedate, of her
+inhabitants, by the grace of their pure Tuscan speech, and by the
+unique delicacy of her architecture. Those palaces of brick, with
+finely moulded lancet windows, and the lovely use of sculptured
+marbles in pilastered colonnades, are fit abodes for the nobles who
+reared them five centuries ago, of whose refined and costly living
+we read in the pages of Dante or of Folgore da San Gemignano. And
+though the necessities of modern life, the decay of wealth, the
+dwindling of old aristocracy, and the absorption of what was once
+an independent state in the Italian nation, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg068" id="pg068">68</a></span> have obliterated
+that large signorial splendour of the Middle Ages, we feel that the
+modern Sienese are not unworthy of their courteous ancestry.</p>
+
+<p>Superficially, much of the present charm of Siena consists in
+the soft opening valleys, the glimpses of long blue hills and
+fertile country-side, framed by irregular brown houses stretching
+along the slopes on which the town is built, and losing themselves
+abruptly in olive fields and orchards. This element of beauty,
+which brings the city into immediate relation with the country, is
+indeed not peculiar to Siena. We find it in Perugia, in Assisi, in
+Montepulciano, in nearly all the hill towns of Umbria and Tuscany.
+But their landscape is often tragic and austere, while this is
+always suave. City and country blend here in delightful amity.
+Neither yields that sense of aloofness which stirs melancholy.</p>
+
+<p>The most charming district in the immediate neighbourhood of
+Siena lies westward, near Belcaro, a villa high up on a hill. It is
+a region of deep lanes and golden-green oak-woods, with cypresses
+and stone-pines, and little streams in all directions flowing over
+the brown sandstone. The country is like some parts of rural
+England&mdash;Devonshire or Sussex. Not only is the sandstone here,
+as there, broken into deep gullies; but the vegetation is much the
+same. Tufted spleenwort, primroses, and broom tangle the hedges
+under boughs of hornbeam and sweet-chestnut. This is the landscape
+which the two sixteenth-century novelists of Siena, Fortini and
+Sermini, so lovingly depicted in their tales. Of literature
+absorbing in itself the specific character of a country, and
+conveying it to the reader less by description than by sustained
+quality of style, I know none to surpass Fortini's sketches. The
+prospect from Belcaro is one of the finest to be seen in Tuscany.
+The villa stands at a considerable elevation, and commands an
+immense extent of hill and dale. <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg069" id="pg069">69</a></span> Nowhere, except Maremma-wards, a
+level plain. The Tuscan mountains, from Monte Amiata westward to
+Volterra, round Valdelsa, down to Montepulciano and Radicofani,
+with their innumerable windings and intricacies of descending
+valleys, are dappled with light and shade from flying storm-clouds,
+sunshine here, and there cloud-shadows. Girdling the villa stands a
+grove of ilex-trees, cut so as to embrace its high-built walls with
+dark continuous green. In the courtyard are lemon-trees and
+pomegranates laden with fruit. From a terrace on the roof the whole
+wide view is seen; and here upon a parapet, from which we leaned
+one autumn afternoon, my friend discovered this <i>graffito</i>:
+'<i>E vidi e piansi il fato amaro!</i>'&mdash;'I gazed, and gazing,
+wept the bitterness of fate.'</p>
+
+<h3>II</h3>
+
+<p>The prevailing note of Siena and the Sienese seems, as I have
+said, to be a soft and tranquil grace; yet this people had one of
+the stormiest and maddest of Italian histories. They were
+passionate in love and hate, vehement in their popular amusements,
+almost frantic in their political conduct of affairs. The luxury,
+for which Dante blamed them, the levity De Comines noticed in their
+government, found counter-poise in more than usual piety and
+fervour. S. Bernardino, the great preacher and peacemaker of the
+Middle Ages; S. Catherine, the worthiest of all women to be
+canonised; the blessed Colombini, who founded the Order of the
+Gesuati or Brothers of the Poor in Christ; the blessed Bernardo,
+who founded that of Monte Oliveto; were all Sienese. Few cities
+have given four such saints to modern Christendom. The biography of
+one of these may serve as prelude to an account of the Sienese
+monastery of Oliveto Maggiore.</p>
+
+<p>The family of Tolomei was among the noblest of the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg070" id="pg070">70</a></span> Sienese
+aristocracy. On May 10, 1272, Mino Tolomei and his wife Fulvia, of
+the Tancredi, had a son whom they christened Giovanni, but who,
+when he entered the religious life, assumed the name of Bernard, in
+memory of the great Abbot of Clairvaux. Of this child, Fulvia is
+said to have dreamed, long before his birth, that he assumed the
+form of a white swan, and sang melodiously, and settled in the
+boughs of an olive-tree, whence afterwards he winged his way to
+heaven amid a flock of swans as dazzling white as he. The boy was
+educated in the Dominican Cloister at Siena, under the care of his
+uncle Cristoforo Tolomei. There, and afterwards in the fraternity
+of S. Ansano, he felt that impulse towards a life of piety, which
+after a short but brilliant episode of secular ambition, was
+destined to return with overwhelming force upon his nature. He was
+a youth of promise, and at the age of sixteen he obtained the
+doctorate in philosophy and both laws, civil and canonical. The
+Tolomei upon this occasion adorned their palaces and threw them
+open to the people of Siena. The Republic hailed with acclamation
+the early honours of a noble, born to be one of their chief
+leaders. Soon after this event Mino obtained for his son from the
+Emperor the title of C&aelig;sarian Knight; and when the diploma
+arrived, new festivities proclaimed the fortunate youth to his
+fellow-citizens. Bernardo cased his limbs in steel, and rode in
+procession with ladies and young nobles through the streets. The
+ceremonies of a knight's reception in Siena at that period were
+magnificent. From contemporary chronicles and from the sonnets
+written by Folgore da San Gemignano for a similar occasion, we
+gather that the whole resources of a wealthy family and all their
+friends were strained to the utmost to do honour to the order of
+chivalry. Open house was held for several days. Rich presents of
+jewels, armour, dresses, chargers were freely <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg071" id="pg071">71</a></span> distributed.
+Tournaments alternated with dances. But the climax of the pageant
+was the novice's investiture with sword and spurs and belt in the
+cathedral. This, as it appears from a record of the year 1326,
+actually took place in the great marble pulpit carved by the
+Pisani; and the most illustrious knights of his acquaintance were
+summoned by the squire to act as sponsors for his fealty.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that young Bernardo Tolomei's head was turned to
+vanity by these honours showered upon him in his earliest manhood.
+Yet, after a short period of aberration, he rejoined his
+confraternity and mortified his flesh by discipline and strict
+attendance on the poor. The time had come, however, when he should
+choose a career suitable to his high rank. He devoted himself to
+jurisprudence, and began to lecture publicly on law. Already at the
+age of twenty-five his fellow-citizens admitted him to the highest
+political offices, and in the legend of his life it is written, not
+without exaggeration doubtless, that he ruled the State. There is,
+however, no reason to suppose that he did not play an important
+part in its government. Though a just and virtuous statesman,
+Bernardo now forgot the special service of God, and gave himself
+with heart and soul to mundane interests. At the age of forty,
+supported by the wealth, alliances, and reputation of his
+semi-princely house, he had become one of the most considerable
+party-leaders in that age of faction. If we may trust his monastic
+biographer, he was aiming at nothing less than the tyranny of
+Siena. But in that year, when he was forty, a change, which can
+only be described as conversion, came over him. He had advertised a
+public disputation, in which he proposed before all comers to solve
+the most arduous problems of scholastic science. The concourse was
+great, the assembly brilliant; but the hero of the day, who had
+designed it for his glory, was stricken with sudden blindness. In
+one <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg072" id="pg072">72</a></span>
+moment he comprehended the internal void he had created for his
+soul, and the blindness of the body was illumination to the spirit.
+The pride, power, and splendour of this world seemed to him a smoke
+that passes. God, penitence, eternity appeared in all the awful
+clarity of an authentic vision. He fell upon his knees and prayed
+to Mary that he might receive his sight again. This boon was
+granted; but the revelation which had come to him in blindness was
+not withdrawn. Meanwhile the hall of disputation was crowded with
+an expectant audience. Bernardo rose from his knees, made his
+entry, and ascended the chair; but instead of the scholastic
+subtleties he had designed to treat, he pronounced the old text,
+'Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.'</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards, attended by two noble comrades, Patrizio Patrizzi
+and Ambrogio Piccolomini, he went forth into the wilderness. For
+the human soul, at strife with strange experience, betakes itself
+instinctively to solitude. Not only prophets of Israel, saints of
+the Theba&iuml;d, and founders of religions in the mystic East have
+done so; even the Greek Menander recognised, although he sneered
+at, the phenomenon. 'The desert, they say, is the place for
+discoveries.' For the medi&aelig;val mind it had peculiar
+attractions. The wilderness these comrades chose was Accona, a
+doleful place, hemmed in with earthen precipices, some fifteen
+miles to the south of Siena. Of his vast possessions Bernardo
+retained but this&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i11">The lonesome lodge,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">That stood so low in a lonely glen.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rest of his substance he abandoned to the poor. This was in
+1313, the very year of the Emperor Henry VII.'s death at
+Buonconvento, which is a little walled town between Siena and the
+desert of Accona. Whether Bernardo's retirement was in any way due
+to the extinction of immediate hope <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg073" id="pg073">73</a></span> for the Ghibelline party by this
+event, we do not gather from his legend. That, as is natural,
+refers his action wholly to the operation of divine grace. Yet we
+may remember how a more illustrious refugee, the singer of the
+'Divine Comedy,' betook himself upon the same occasion to the
+lonely convent of Fonte Avellana on the Alps of Catria, and
+meditated there the cantos of his Purgatory. While Bernardo Tolomei
+was founding the Order of Monte Oliveto, Dante penned his letter to
+the cardinals of Italy: <i>Quomodo sola sedet civitas plena populo:
+facta est quasi vidua domina gentium</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Bernardo and his friends hollowed with their own hands grottos
+in the rock, and strewed their stone beds with withered
+chestnut-leaves. For S. Scolastica, the sister of S. Benedict, they
+built a little chapel. Their food was wild fruit, and their drink
+the water of the brook. Through the day they delved, for it was in
+their mind to turn the wilderness into a land of plenty. By night
+they meditated on eternal truth. The contrast between their rude
+life and the delicate nurture of Sienese nobles, in an age when
+Siena had become a by-word for luxury, must have been cruel. But it
+fascinated the medi&aelig;val imagination, and the three anchorites
+were speedily joined by recruits of a like temper. As yet the
+new-born order had no rules; for Bernardo, when he renounced the
+world, embraced humility. The brethren were bound together only by
+the ties of charity. They lived in common; and under their
+sustained efforts Accona soon became a garden.</p>
+
+<p>The society could not, however, hold together without further
+organisation. It began to be ill spoken of, inasmuch as vulgar
+minds can recognise no good except in what is formed upon a pattern
+they are familiar with. Then Bernardo had a vision. In his sleep he
+saw a ladder of light ascending to the heavens. Above sat Jesus
+with Our Lady in white <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg074" id=
+"pg074">74</a></span> raiment, and the celestial hierarchies around
+them were attired in white. Up the ladder, led by angels, climbed
+men in vesture of dazzling white; and among these Bernardo
+recognised his own companions. Soon after this dream, he called
+Ambrogio Piccolomini, and bade him get ready for a journey to the
+Pope at Avignon.</p>
+
+<p>John XXII. received the pilgrims graciously, and gave them
+letters to the Bishop of Arezzo, commanding him to furnish the new
+brotherhood with one of the rules authorised by Holy Church for
+governance of a monastic order. Guido Tarlati, of the great
+Pietra-mala house, was Bishop and despot of Arezzo at this epoch. A
+man less in harmony with coenobitical enthusiasm than this warrior
+prelate, could scarcely have been found. Yet attendance to such
+matters formed part of his business, and the legend even credits
+him with an inspired dream; for Our Lady appeared to him, and said:
+'I love the valley of Accona and its pious solitaries. Give them
+the rule of Benedict. But thou shalt strip them of their mourning
+weeds, and clothe them in white raiment, the symbol of my virgin
+purity. Their hermitage shall change its name, and henceforth shall
+be called Mount Olivet, in memory of the ascension of my divine
+Son, the which took place upon the Mount of Olives. I take this
+family beneath my own protection; and therefore it is my will it
+should be called henceforth the congregation of S. Mary of Mount
+Olivet.' After this, the Blessed Virgin took forethought for the
+heraldic designs of her monks, dictating to Guido Tarlati the
+blazon they still bear; it is of three hills or, whereof the third
+and highest is surmounted with a cross gules, and from the
+meeting-point of the three hillocks upon either hand a branch of
+olive vert. This was in 1319. In 1324 John XXII. confirmed the
+order, and in 1344 it was further approved by Clement VI.
+Affiliated societies sprang <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg075"
+id="pg075">75</a></span> up in several Tuscan cities; and in 1347,
+Bernardo Tolomei, at that time General of the Order, held a chapter
+of its several houses. The next year was the year of the great
+plague or Black Death. Bernardo bade his brethren leave their
+seclusion, and go forth on works of mercy among the sick. Some went
+to Florence, some to Siena, others to the smaller hill-set towns of
+Tuscany. All were bidden to assemble on the Feast of the Assumption
+at Siena. Here the founder addressed his spiritual children for the
+last time. Soon afterwards he died himself, at the age of
+seventy-seven, and the place of his grave is not known. He was
+beatified by the Church for his great virtues.</p>
+
+<h3>III</h3>
+
+<p>At noon we started, four of us, in an open waggonette with a
+pair of horses, for Monte Oliveto, the luggage heaped mountain-high
+and tied in a top-heavy mass above us. After leaving the gateway,
+with its massive fortifications and frescoed arches, the road
+passes into a dull earthy country, very much like some
+parts&mdash;and not the best parts&mdash;of England. The beauty of
+the Sienese contado is clearly on the sandstone, not upon the clay.
+Hedges, haystacks, isolated farms&mdash;all were English in their
+details. Only the vines, and mulberries, and wattled waggons drawn
+by oxen, most Roman in aspect, reminded us we were in Tuscany. In
+such <i>carpenta</i> may the vestal virgins have ascended the
+Capitol. It is the primitive war-chariot also, capable of holding
+four with ease; and Romulus may have mounted with the images of
+Roman gods in even such a vehicle to Latiarian Jove upon the Alban
+hill. Nothing changes in Italy. The wooden ploughs are those which
+Virgil knew. The sight of one of them would <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg076" id="pg076">76</a></span> save an
+intelligent lad much trouble in mastering a certain passage of the
+Georgics.</p>
+
+<p>Siena is visible behind us nearly the whole way to Buonconvento,
+a little town where the Emperor Henry VII. died, as it was
+supposed, of poison, in 1313. It is still circled with the wall and
+gates built by the Sienese in 1366, and is a fair specimen of an
+intact medi&aelig;val stronghold. Here we leave the main road, and
+break into a country-track across a bed of sandstone, with the
+delicate volcanic lines of Monte Amiata in front, and the
+a&euml;rial pile of Montalcino to our right. The pyracanthus bushes
+in the hedge yield their clusters of bright yellow berries, mingled
+with more glowing hues of red from haws and glossy hips. On the
+pale grey earthen slopes men and women are plying the long
+Sabellian hoes of their forefathers, and ploughmen are driving
+furrows down steep hills. The labour of the husbandmen in Tuscany
+is very graceful, partly, I think, because it is so primitive, but
+also because the people have an eminently noble carriage, and are
+fashioned on the lines of antique statues. I noticed two young
+contadini in one field, whom Frederick Walker might have painted
+with the dignity of Pheidian form. They were guiding their ploughs
+along a hedge of olive-trees, slanting upwards, the white-horned
+oxen moving slowly through the marl, and the lads bending to press
+the plough-shares home. It was a delicate piece of colour&mdash;the
+grey mist of olive branches, the warm smoking earth, the creamy
+flanks of the oxen, the brown limbs and dark eyes of the men, who
+paused awhile to gaze at us, with shadows cast upon the furrows
+from their tall straight figures. Then they turned to their work
+again, and rhythmic movement was added to the picture. I wonder
+when an Italian artist will condescend to pluck these flowers of
+beauty, so abundantly offered by the simplest things in his own
+native land. Each city has <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg077"
+id="pg077">77</a></span> an Accademia delle Belle Arti, and there
+is no lack of students. But the painters, having learned their
+trade, make copies ten times distant from the truth of famous
+masterpieces for the American market. Few seem to look beyond their
+picture galleries. Thus the democratic art, the art of Millet, the
+art of life and nature and the people, waits.</p>
+
+<p>As we mount, the soil grows of a richer brown; and there are
+woods of oak where herds of swine are feeding on the acorns. Monte
+Oliveto comes in sight&mdash;a mass of red brick, backed up with
+cypresses, among dishevelled earthy precipices, <i>balze</i> as
+they are called&mdash;upon the hill below the village of Chiusure.
+This Chiusure was once a promising town; but the life was crushed
+out of it in the throes of medi&aelig;val civil wars, and since the
+thirteenth century it has been dwindling to a hamlet. The struggle
+for existence, from which the larger communes of this district,
+Siena and Montepulciano, emerged at the expense of their
+neighbours, must have been tragical. The <i>balze</i> now grow
+sterner, drier, more dreadful. We see how deluges outpoured from
+thunder-storms bring down their viscous streams of loam, destroying
+in an hour the terraces it took a year to build, and spreading
+wasteful mud upon the scanty cornfields. The people call this soil
+<i>creta</i>; but it seems to be less like a chalk than a marl, or
+<i>marna</i>. It is always washing away into ravines and gullies,
+exposing the roots of trees, and rendering the tillage of the land
+a thankless labour. One marvels how any vegetation has the faith to
+settle on its dreary waste, or how men have the patience,
+generation after generation, to renew the industry, still
+beginning, never ending, which reclaims such wildernesses.
+Comparing Monte Oliveto with similar districts of cretaceous
+soil&mdash;with the country, for example, between Pienza and San
+Quirico&mdash;we perceive how much is owed to the perseverance of
+the monks whom Bernard <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg078" id=
+"pg078">78</a></span> Tolomei planted here. So far as it is clothed
+at all with crop and wood, this is their service.</p>
+
+<p>At last we climb the crowning hill, emerge from a copse of oak,
+glide along a terraced pathway through the broom, and find
+ourselves in front of the convent gateway. A substantial tower of
+red brick, machicolated at the top and pierced with small square
+windows, guards this portal, reminding us that at some time or
+other the monks found it needful to arm their solitude against a
+force descending from Chiusure. There is an avenue of slender
+cypresses; and over the gate, protected by a jutting roof, shines a
+fresco of Madonna and Child. Passing rapidly downwards, we are in
+the courtyard of the monastery, among its stables, barns, and
+out-houses, with the forlorn bulk of the huge red building,
+spreading wide, and towering up above us. As good luck ruled our
+arrival, we came face to face with the Abbate de Negro, who
+administers the domain of Monte Oliveto for the Government of
+Italy, and exercises a kindly hospitality to chance-comers. He was
+standing near the church, which, with its tall square campanile,
+breaks the long stern outline of the convent. The whole edifice, it
+may be said, is composed of a red-brick inclining to purple in
+tone, which contrasts not unpleasantly with the lustrous green of
+the cypresses, and the glaucous sheen of olives. Advantage has been
+taken of a steep crest; and the monastery, enlarged from time to
+time through the last five centuries, has here and there been
+reared upon gigantic buttresses, which jut upon the <i>balze</i> at
+a sometimes giddy height.</p>
+
+<p>The Abbate received us with true courtesy, and gave us spacious
+rooms, three cells apiece, facing Siena and the western mountains.
+There is accommodation, he told us, for three hundred monks; but
+only three are left in it. As this order was confined to members of
+the nobility, each of <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg079" id=
+"pg079">79</a></span> the religious had his own apartment&mdash;not
+a cubicle such as the uninstructed dream of when they read of
+monks, but separate chambers for sleep and study and
+recreation.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of the vast sad landscape, the place is still,
+with a silence that can be almost heard. The deserted state of
+those innumerable cells, those echoing corridors and shadowy
+cloisters, exercises overpowering tyranny over the imagination.
+Siena is so far away, and Montalcino is so faintly outlined on its
+airy parapet, that these cities only deepen our sense of
+desolation. It is a relief to mark at no great distance on the
+hillside a contadino guiding his oxen, and from a lonely farm yon
+column of ascending smoke. At least the world goes on, and life is
+somewhere resonant with song. But here there rests a pall of
+silence among the oak-groves and the cypresses and <i>balze</i>. As
+I leaned and mused, while Christian (my good friend and
+fellow-traveller from the Grisons) made our beds, a melancholy
+sunset flamed up from a rampart of cloud, built like a city of the
+air above the mountains of Volterra&mdash;fire issuing from its
+battlements, and smiting the fretted roof of heaven above. It was a
+conflagration of celestial rose upon the saddest purples and
+cavernous recesses of intensest azure.</p>
+
+<p>We had an excellent supper in the visitors'
+refectory&mdash;soup, good bread and country wine, ham, a roast
+chicken with potatoes, a nice white cheese made of sheep's milk,
+and grapes for dessert. The kind Abbate sat by, and watched his
+four guests eat, tapping his tortoiseshell snuff-box, and telling
+us many interesting things about the past and present state of the
+convent. Our company was completed with Lupo, the pet cat, and
+Pirro, a woolly Corsican dog, very good friends, and both
+enormously voracious. Lupo in particular engraved himself upon the
+memory of Christian, into whose large legs he thrust his claws,
+when the cheese-parings and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg080"
+id="pg080">80</a></span> scraps were not supplied him with
+sufficient promptitude. I never saw a hungrier and bolder cat. It
+made one fancy that even the mice had been exiled from this
+solitude. And truly the rule of the monastic order, no less than
+the habit of Italian gentlemen, is frugal in the matter of the
+table, beyond the conception of northern folk.</p>
+
+<p>Monte Oliveto, the Superior told us, owned thirty-two
+<i>poderi</i>, or large farms, of which five have recently been
+sold. They are worked on the <i>mezzeria</i> system; whereby
+peasants and proprietors divide the produce of the soil; and which
+he thinks inferior for developing its resources to that of
+<i>affitto</i>, or leaseholding.</p>
+
+<p>The contadini live in scattered houses; and he says the estate
+would be greatly improved by doubling the number of these
+dwellings, and letting the subdivided farms to more energetic
+people. The village of Chiusure is inhabited by labourers. The
+contadini are poor: a dower, for instance, of fifty <i>lire</i> is
+thought something: whereas near Genoa, upon the leasehold system, a
+farmer may sometimes provide a dower of twenty thousand
+<i>lire</i>. The country produces grain of different sorts,
+excellent oil, and timber. It also yields a tolerable red wine. The
+Government makes from eight to nine per cent. upon the value of the
+land, employing him and his two religious brethren as agents.</p>
+
+<p>In such conversation the evening passed. We rested well in large
+hard beds with dry rough sheets. But there was a fretful wind
+abroad, which went wailing round the convent walls and rattling the
+doors in its deserted corridors. One of our party had been placed
+by himself at the end of a long suite of apartments, with balconies
+commanding the wide sweep of hills that Monte Amiata crowns. He
+confessed in the morning to having passed a restless night,
+tormented by the ghostly noises of the wind, a wanderer, 'like the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg081" id="pg081">81</a></span>
+world's rejected guest,' through those untenanted chambers. The
+olives tossed their filmy boughs in twilight underneath his
+windows, sighing and shuddering, with a sheen in them as eerie as
+that of willows by some haunted mere.</p>
+
+<h4>IV</h4>
+
+<p>The great attraction to students of Italian art in the convent
+of Monte Oliveto is a large square cloister, covered with
+wall-paintings by Luca Signorelli and Giovannantonio Bazzi,
+surnamed Il Sodoma. These represent various episodes in the life of
+S. Benedict; while one picture, in some respects the best of the
+whole series, is devoted to the founder of the Olivetan Order,
+Bernardo Tolomei, dispensing the rule of his institution to a
+consistory of white-robed monks. Signorelli, that great master of
+Cortona, may be studied to better advantage elsewhere, especially
+at Orvieto and in his native city. His work in this cloister,
+consisting of eight frescoes, has been much spoiled by time and
+restoration. Yet it can be referred to a good period of his
+artistic activity (the year 1497) and displays much which is
+specially characteristic of his manner. In Totila's barbaric train,
+he painted a crowd of fierce emphatic figures, combining all ages
+and the most varied attitudes, and reproducing with singular
+vividness the Italian soldiers of adventure of his day. We see
+before us the long-haired followers of Braccio and the Baglioni;
+their handsome savage faces; their brawny limbs clad in the
+particoloured hose and jackets of that period; feathered caps stuck
+sideways on their heads; a splendid swagger in their straddling
+legs. Female beauty lay outside the sphere of Signorelli's
+sympathy; and in the Monte Oliveto cloister he was not called upon
+to paint it. But none of the Italian masters felt more keenly, or
+more powerfully <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg082" id=
+"pg082">82</a></span> represented in their work, the muscular
+vigour of young manhood. Two of the remaining frescoes, different
+from these in motive, might be selected as no less characteristic
+of Signorelli's manner. One represents three sturdy monks, clad in
+brown, working with all their strength to stir a boulder, which has
+been bewitched, and needs a miracle to move it from its place. The
+square and powerfully outlined drawing of these figures is beyond
+all praise for its effect of massive solidity. The other shows us
+the interior of a fifteenth-century tavern, where two monks are
+regaling themselves upon the sly. A country girl, with shapely arms
+and shoulders, her upper skirts tucked round the ample waist to
+which broad sweeping lines of back and breasts descend, is serving
+wine. The exuberance of animal life, the freedom of attitude
+expressed in this, the mainly interesting figure of the
+composition, show that Signorelli might have been a great master of
+realistic painting. Nor are the accessories less effective. A
+wide-roofed kitchen chimney, a page-boy leaving the room by a
+flight of steps which leads to the house door, and the table at
+which the truant monks are seated, complete a picture of homely
+Italian life. It may still be matched out of many an inn in this
+hill district.</p>
+
+<p>Called to graver work at Orvieto, where he painted his gigantic
+series of frescoes illustrating the coming of Anti-christ, the
+Destruction of the World, the Resurrection, the Last Judgment, and
+the final state of souls in Paradise and Hell, Signorelli left his
+work at Monte Oliveto unaccomplished. Seven years later it was
+taken up by a painter of very different genius. Sodoma was a native
+of Vercelli, and had received his first training in the Lombard
+schools, which owed so much to Lionardo da Vinci's influence. He
+was about thirty years of age when chance brought him to Siena.
+Here he made acquaintance with Pandolfo Petrucci, who had <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg083" id="pg083">83</a></span> recently
+established himself in a species of tyranny over the Republic. The
+work he did for this patron and other nobles of Siena, brought him
+into notice. Vasari observes that his hot Lombard colouring, a
+something florid and attractive in his style, which contrasted with
+the severity of the Tuscan school, rendered him no less agreeable
+as an artist than his free manners made him acceptable as a
+house-friend. Fra Domenico da Leccio, also a Lombard, was at that
+time General of the monks of Monte Oliveto. On a visit to this
+compatriot in 1505, Sodoma received a commission to complete the
+cloister; and during the next two years he worked there, producing
+in all twenty-five frescoes. For his pains he seemed to have
+received but little pay&mdash;Vasari says, only the expenses of
+some colour-grinders who assisted him; but from the books of the
+convent it appears that 241 ducats, or something over 60<i>l.</i>
+of our money, were disbursed to him.</p>
+
+<p>Sodoma was so singular a fellow, even in that age of piquant
+personalities, that it may be worth while to translate a fragment
+of Vasari's gossip about him. We must, however, bear in mind that,
+for some unknown reason, the Aretine historian bore a rancorous
+grudge against this Lombard whose splendid gifts and great
+achievements he did all he could by writing to depreciate. 'He was
+fond,' says Vasari, 'of keeping in his house all sorts of strange
+animals: badgers, squirrels, monkeys, cat-a-mountains,
+dwarf-donkeys, horses, racers, little Elba ponies, jackdaws,
+bantams, doves of India, and other creatures of this kind, as many
+as he could lay his hands on. Over and above these beasts, he had a
+raven, which had learned so well from him to talk, that it could
+imitate its master's voice, especially in answering the door when
+some one knocked, and this it did so cleverly that people took it
+for Giovannantonio himself, as all the folk of Siena know quite
+well. In like manner, his other pets were <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg084" id="pg084">84</a></span> so much at home with him that
+they never left his house, but played the strangest tricks and
+maddest pranks imaginable, so that his house was like nothing more
+than a Noah's Ark.' He was a bold rider, it seems; for with one of
+his racers, ridden by himself, he bore away the prize in that wild
+horse-race they run upon the Piazza at Siena. For the rest, 'he
+attired himself in pompous clothes, wearing doublets of brocade,
+cloaks trimmed with gold lace, gorgeous caps, neck-chains, and
+other vanities of a like description, fit for buffoons and
+mountebanks.' In one of the frescoes of Monte Oliveto, Sodoma
+painted his own portrait, with some of his curious pets around him.
+He there appears as a young man with large and decidedly handsome
+features, a great shock of dark curled hair escaping from a yellow
+cap, and flowing down over a rich mantle which drapes his
+shoulders. If we may trust Vasari, he showed his curious humours
+freely to the monks. 'Nobody could describe the amusement he
+furnished to those good fathers, who christened him Mattaccio (the
+big madman), or the insane tricks he played there.'</p>
+
+<p>In spite of Vasari's malevolence, the portrait he has given us
+of Bazzi has so far nothing unpleasant about it. The man seems to
+have been a madcap artist, combining with his love for his
+profession a taste for fine clothes, and what was then perhaps
+rarer in people of his sort, a great partiality for living
+creatures of all kinds. The darker shades of Vasari's picture have
+been purposely omitted from these pages. We only know for certain,
+about Bazzi's private life, that he was married in 1510 to a
+certain Beatrice, who bore him two children, and who was still
+living with him in 1541. The further suggestion that he painted at
+Monte Oliveto subjects unworthy of a religious house, is wholly
+disproved by the frescoes which still exist in a state of very
+tolerable preservation. They represent various episodes in the
+legend of S. <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg085" id=
+"pg085">85</a></span> Benedict; all marked by that spirit of
+simple, almost childish piety which is a special characteristic of
+Italian religious history. The series forms, in fact, a painted
+<i>novella</i> of monastic life; its petty jealousies, its petty
+trials, its tribulations and temptations, and its indescribably
+petty miracles. Bazzi was well fitted for the execution of this
+task. He had a swift and facile brush, considerable versatility in
+the treatment of monotonous subjects, and a never-failing sense of
+humour. His white-cowled monks, some of them with the rosy
+freshness of boys, some with the handsome brown faces of middle
+life, others astute and crafty, others again wrinkled with old age,
+have clearly been copied from real models. He puts them into action
+without the slightest effort, and surrounds them with landscapes,
+architecture, and furniture, appropriate to each successive
+situation. The whole is done with so much grace, such simplicity of
+composition, and transparency of style, corresponding to the
+<i>na&iuml;f</i> and superficial legend, that we feel a perfect
+harmony between the artist's mind and the motives he was made to
+handle. In this respect Bazzi's portion of the legend of S.
+Benedict is more successful than Signorelli's. It was fortunate,
+perhaps, that the conditions of his task confined him to
+uncomplicated groupings, and a scale of colour in which white
+predominates. For Bazzi, as is shown by subsequent work in the
+Farnesina Villa at Rome, and in the church of S. Domenico at Siena,
+was no master of composition; and the tone, even of his
+masterpieces, inclines to heat. Unlike Signorelli, Bazzi felt a
+deep artistic sympathy with female beauty; and the most attractive
+fresco in the whole series is that in which the evil monk
+Florentius brings a bevy of fair damsels to the convent. There is
+one group, in particular, of six women, so delicately varied in
+carriage of the head and suggested movement of the body, as to be
+comparable only to a strain of concerted <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg086" id="pg086">86</a></span> music. This is perhaps the
+painter's masterpiece in the rendering of pure beauty, if we except
+his S. Sebastian of the Uffizzi.</p>
+
+<p>We tire of studying pictures, hardly less than of reading about
+them! I was glad enough, after three hours spent among the frescoes
+of this cloister, to wander forth into the copses which surround
+the convent. Sunlight was streaming treacherously from flying
+clouds; and though it was high noon, the oak-leaves were still
+a-tremble with dew. Pink cyclamens and yellow amaryllis starred the
+moist brown earth; and under the cypress-trees, where alleys had
+been cut in former time for pious feet, the short firm turf was
+soft and mossy. Before bidding the hospitable Padre farewell, and
+starting in our waggonette for Asciano, it was pleasant to meditate
+awhile in these green solitudes. Generations of white-stoled monks
+who had sat or knelt upon the now deserted terraces, or had slowly
+paced the winding paths to Calvaries aloft and points of vantage
+high above the wood, rose up before me. My mind, still full of
+Bazzi's frescoes, peopled the wilderness with grave monastic forms,
+and gracious, young-eyed faces of boyish novices.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg087" id=
+"pg087">87</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="MONTEPULCIANO" id=
+"MONTEPULCIANO" /><i>MONTEPULCIANO</i></h3>
+
+<h3>I</h3>
+
+<p>For the sake of intending travellers to this, the lordliest of
+Tuscan hill-towns, it will be well to state at once and without
+circumlocution what does not appear upon the time-tables of the
+line from Empoli to Rome. Montepulciano has a station; but this
+railway station is at the distance of at least an hour and a half's
+drive from the mountain upon which the city stands.</p>
+
+<p>The lumbering train which brought us one October evening from
+Asciano crawled into this station after dark, at the very moment
+when a storm, which had been gathering from the south-west, burst
+in deluges of rain and lightning. There was, however, a covered
+carriage going to the town. Into this we packed ourselves, together
+with a polite Italian gentleman who, in answer to our questions,
+consulted his watch, and smilingly replied that a little half-hour
+would bring us easily to Montepulciano. He was a native of the
+place. He knew perfectly well that he would be shut up with us in
+that carriage for two mortal hours of darkness and downpour. And
+yet, such is the irresistible impulse in Italians to say something
+immediately agreeable, he fed us with false hopes and had no fear
+of consequences. What did it matter to him if we were pulling out
+our watches and chattering in well-contented undertone about
+<i>vino nobile</i>, <i>biftek</i>, and possibly a <i>polio
+arrosto</i>, or a dish of <i>tord</i>? At <a name="pg088" id=
+"pg088"></a><span class="pagenum">88</span> the end of the
+half-hour, as he was well aware, self-congratulations and visions
+of a hearty supper would turn to discontented wailings, and the
+querulous complaining of defrauded appetites. But the end of half
+an hour was still half an hour off; and we meanwhile were
+comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>The night was pitchy dark, and blazing flashes of lightning
+showed a white ascending road at intervals. Rain rushed in
+torrents, splashing against the carriage wheels, which moved
+uneasily, as though they could but scarcely stem the river that
+swept down upon them. Far away above us to the left, was one light
+on a hill, which never seemed to get any nearer. We could see
+nothing but a chasm of blackness below us on one side, edged with
+ghostly olive-trees, and a high bank on the other. Sometimes a star
+swam out of the drifting clouds; but then the rain hissed down
+again, and the flashes came in floods of livid light, illuminating
+the eternal olives and the cypresses which looked like huge black
+spectres. It seemed almost impossible for the horses to keep their
+feet, as the mountain road grew ever steeper and the torrent
+swelled around them. Still they struggled on. The promised
+half-hour had been doubled, trebled, quadrupled, when at last we
+saw the great brown sombre walls of a city tower above us. Then we
+entered one of those narrow lofty Tuscan gates, and rolled upon the
+pavement of a street.</p>
+
+<p>The inn at Montepulciano is called Marzocco, after the
+Florentine lion which stands upon its column in a little square
+before the house. The people there are hospitable, and more than
+once on subsequent occasions have they extended to us kindly
+welcome. But on this, our first appearance, they had scanty room at
+their disposal. Seeing us arrive so late, and march into their
+dining-room, laden with sealskins, waterproofs, and ulsters, one of
+the party <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg089" id=
+"pg089">89</a></span> hugging a complete Euripides in Didot's huge
+edition, they were confounded. At last they conducted the whole
+company of four into a narrow back bedroom, where they pointed to
+one fair-sized and one very little bed. This was the only room at
+liberty, they said; and could we not arrange to sleep here? <i>S'
+accomodi, Signore! S' accomodi, Signora!</i> These encouraging
+words, uttered in various tones of cheerful and insinuating
+politeness to each member of the party in succession, failed to
+make us comprehend how a gentleman and his wife, with a lean but
+rather lengthy English friend, and a bulky native of the Grisons,
+could 'accommodate themselves' collectively and undividedly with
+what was barely sufficient for their just moiety, however much it
+might afford a night's rest to their worse half. Christian was sent
+out into the storm to look for supplementary rooms in
+Montepulciano, which he failed to get. Meanwhile we ordered supper,
+and had the satisfaction of seeing set upon the board a huge red
+flask of <i>vino nobile</i>. In copious draughts of this the King
+of Tuscan wines, we drowned our cares; and when the cloth was
+drawn, our friend and Christian passed their night upon the supper
+table. The good folk of the inn had recovered from their surprise,
+and from the inner recesses of their house had brought forth
+mattresses and blankets. So the better and larger half of the
+company enjoyed sound sleep.</p>
+
+<p>It rained itself out at night, and the morning was clear, with
+the transparent atmosphere of storm-clouds hurrying in broken
+squadrons from the bad sea quarter. Yet this is just the weather in
+which Tuscan landscape looks its loveliest. Those immense expanses
+of grey undulating uplands need the luminousness of watery
+sunshine, the colour added by cloud-shadows, and the pearly
+softness of rising vapours, to rob them of a certain awful
+grimness. The main street of Montepulciano goes straight uphill for
+a considerable distance <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg090" id=
+"pg090">90</a></span> between brown palaces; then mounts by a
+staircase-zigzag under huge impending masses of masonry; until it
+ends in a piazza. On the ascent, at intervals, the eye is
+fascinated by prospects to the north and east over Val di Chiana,
+Cortona, Thrasymene, Chiusi; to south and west over Monte Cetona,
+Radicofani, Monte Amiata, the Val d' Ombrone, and the Sienese
+Contado. Grey walls overgrown with ivy, arcades of time-toned
+brick, and the forbidding bulk of houses hewn from solid
+travertine, frame these glimpses of a&euml;rial space. The piazza
+is the top of all things. Here are the Duomo; the Palazzo del
+Comune, closely resembling that of Florence, with the Marzocco on
+its front; the fountain, between two quaintly sculptured columns;
+and the vast palace Del Monte, of heavy Renaissance architecture,
+said to be the work of Antonio di San Gallo.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed the tower of the Palazzo del Comune, and stood at the
+altitude of 2000 feet above the sea. The view is finer in its kind
+than I have elsewhere seen, even in Tuscany, that land of panoramic
+prospects over memorable tracts of world-historic country. Such
+landscape cannot be described in words. But the worst is that, even
+while we gaze, we know that nothing but the faintest memory of our
+enjoyment will be carried home with us. The atmospheric conditions
+were perfect that morning. The sun was still young; the sky
+sparkled after the night's thunderstorm; the whole immensity of
+earth around lay lucid, smiling, newly washed in baths of moisture.
+Masses of storm-cloud kept rolling from the west, where we seemed
+to feel the sea behind those intervening hills. But they did not
+form in heavy blocks or hang upon the mountain summits. They
+hurried and dispersed and changed and flung their shadows on the
+world below.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg091" id=
+"pg091">91</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>II</h3>
+
+<p>The charm of this view is composed of so many different
+elements, so subtly blent, appealing to so many separate
+sensibilities; the sense of grandeur, the sense of space, the sense
+of natural beauty, and the sense of human pathos; that deep
+internal faculty we call historic sense; that it cannot be defined.
+First comes the immense surrounding space&mdash;a space measured in
+each arc of the circumference by sections of at least fifty miles,
+limited by points of exquisitely picturesque beauty, including
+distant cloud-like mountain ranges and crystals of sky-blue
+Apennines, circumscribing landscapes of refined loveliness in
+detail, always varied, always marked by objects of peculiar
+interest where the eye or memory may linger. Next in importance to
+this immensity of space, so powerfully affecting the imagination by
+its mere extent, and by the breadth of atmosphere attuning all
+varieties of form and colour to one harmony beneath illimitable
+heaven, may be reckoned the episodes of rivers, lakes, hills,
+cities, with old historic names. For there spreads the lordly
+length of Thrasymene, islanded and citadelled, in hazy morning
+mist, still dreaming of the shock of Roman hosts with Carthaginian
+legions. There is the lake of Chiusi, set like a jewel underneath
+the copse-clad hills which hide the dust of a dead Tuscan nation.
+The streams of Arno start far far away, where Arezzo lies enfolded
+in bare uplands. And there at our feet rolls Tiber's largest
+affluent, the Chiana. And there is the canal which joins their
+fountains in the marsh that Lionardo would have drained. Monte
+Cetona is yonder height which rears its bristling ridge defiantly
+from neighbouring Chiusi. And there springs Radicofani, the eagle's
+eyrie of a brigand brood. Next, Monte Amiata stretches the long
+lines of her antique volcano; the swelling mountain flanks, <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg092" id="pg092">92</a></span> descending
+gently from her cloud-capped top, are russet with autumnal oak and
+chestnut woods. On them our eyes rest lovingly; imagination wanders
+for a moment through those mossy glades, where cyclamens are
+growing now, and primroses in spring will peep amid anemones from
+rustling foliage strewn by winter's winds. The heights of
+Casentino, the Perugian highlands, Volterra, far withdrawn amid a
+wilderness of rolling hills, and solemn snow-touched ranges of the
+Spolentino, Sibyl-haunted fastnesses of Norcia, form the most
+distant horizon-lines of this unending panorama. And then there are
+the cities placed each upon a point of vantage: Siena;
+olive-mantled Chiusi; Cortona, white upon her spreading throne;
+poetic Montalcino, lifted aloft against the vaporous sky; San
+Quirico, nestling in pastoral tranquillity; Pienza, where
+&AElig;neas Sylvius built palaces and called his birthplace after
+his own Papal name. Still closer to the town itself of
+Montepulciano, stretching along the irregular ridge which gave it
+building ground, and trending out on spurs above deep orchards,
+come the lovely details of oak-copses, blending with grey tilth and
+fields rich with olive and vine. The gaze, exhausted with
+immensity, pierces those deeply cloven valleys, sheltered from wind
+and open to the sun&mdash;undulating folds of brown earth, where
+Bacchus, when he visited Tuscany, found the grape-juice that
+pleased him best, and crowned the wine of Montepulciano king. Here
+from our eyrie we can trace white oxen on the furrows, guided by
+brown-limbed, white-shirted contadini.</p>
+
+<p>The morning glory of this view from Montepulciano, though
+irrecoverable by words, abides in the memory, and draws one back by
+its unique attractiveness. On a subsequent visit to the town in
+springtime, my wife and I took a twilight walk, just after our
+arrival, through its gloomy fortress streets, up to the piazza,
+where the impendent houses <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg093"
+id="pg093">93</a></span> lowered like bastions, and all the masses
+of their mighty architecture stood revealed in shadow and dim
+lamplight. Far and wide, the country round us gleamed with
+bonfires; for it was the eve of the Ascension, when every contadino
+lights a beacon of chestnut logs and straw and piled-up leaves.
+Each castello on the plain, each village on the hills, each lonely
+farmhouse at the skirt of forest or the edge of lake, smouldered
+like a red Cyclopean eye beneath the vault of stars. The flames
+waxed and waned, leapt into tongues, or disappeared. As they passed
+from gloom to brilliancy and died away again, they seemed almost to
+move. The twilight scene was like that of a vast city, filling the
+plain and climbing the heights in terraces. Is this custom, I
+thought, a relic of old Pales-worship?</p>
+
+<h3>III</h3>
+
+<p>The early history of Montepulciano is buried in impenetrable
+mists of fable. No one can assign a date to the foundation of these
+high-hill cities. The eminence on which it stands belongs to the
+volcanic system of Monte Amiata, and must at some time have formed
+a portion of the crater which threw that mighty mass aloft. But
+sons have passed since the <i>gran sasso di Maremma</i> was a
+fire-vomiting monster, glaring like Etna in eruption on the
+Tyrrhene sea; and through those centuries how many races may have
+camped upon the summit we call Montepulciano! Tradition assigns the
+first quasi-historical settlement to Lars Porsena, who is said to
+have made it his summer residence, when the lower and more marshy
+air of Clusium became oppressive. Certainly it must have been a
+considerable town in the Etruscan period. Embedded in the walls of
+palaces may still be seen numerous fragments of sculptured
+basreliefs, the works of that mysterious people. Apropos of
+Montepulciano's importance <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg094"
+id="pg094">94</a></span> in the early years of Roman history, I
+lighted on a quaint story related by its very jejune annalist,
+Spinello Benci. It will be remembered that Livy attributes the
+invasion of the Gauls, who, after besieging Clusium, advanced on
+Rome, to the persuasions of a certain Aruns. He was an exile from
+Clusium; and wishing to revenge himself upon his country-people, he
+allured the Senonian Gauls into his service by the promise of
+excellent wine, samples of which he had taken with him into
+Lombardy. Spinello Benci accepts the legend literally, and
+continues: 'These wines were so pleasing to the palate of the
+barbarians, that they were induced to quit the rich and teeming
+valley of the Po, to cross the Apennines, and move in battle array
+against Chiusi. And it is clear that the wine which Aruns selected
+for the purpose was the same as that which is produced to this day
+at Montepulciano. For nowhere else in the Etruscan district can
+wines of equally generous quality and fiery spirit be found, so
+adapted for export and capable of such long preservation.'</p>
+
+<p>We may smile at the historian's <i>na&iuml;vet&eacute;</i>. Yet
+the fact remains that good wine of Montepulciano can still allure
+barbarians of this epoch to the spot where it is grown. Of all
+Italian vintages, with the exception of some rare qualities of
+Sicily and the Valtellina, it is, in my humble opinion, the best.
+And when the time comes for Italy to develop the resources of her
+vineyards upon scientific principles, Montepulciano will drive
+Brolio from the field and take the same place by the side of
+Chianti which Volnay occupies by common Macon. It will then be
+quoted upon wine-lists throughout Europe, and find its place upon
+the tables of rich epicures in Hyperborean regions, and add its
+generous warmth to Trans-atlantic banquets. Even as it is now made,
+with very little care bestowed on cultivation and none to speak of
+on selection of the grape, the wine is rich and noble, slightly
+rough to a <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg095" id=
+"pg095">95</a></span> sophisticated palate, but clean in quality
+and powerful and racy. It deserves the enthusiasm attributed by
+Redi to Bacchus:<a name="FNanchor_1_10" id="FNanchor_1_10" /><a
+href="#Footnote_1_10" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">Fill, fill, let us all have our will!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">But with <i>what</i>, with <i>what</i>, boys, shall
+we fill.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Sweet Ariadne&mdash;no, not <i>that</i>
+one&mdash;<i>ah</i> no;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Fill me the manna of Montepulciano:</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Fill me a magnum and reach it me.&mdash;Gods!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">How it glides to my heart by the sweetest of
+roads!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Oh, how it kisses me, tickles me, bites me!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Oh, how my eyes loosen sweetly in tears!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">I'm ravished! I'm rapt! Heaven finds me
+admissible!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Lost in an ecstasy! blinded!
+invisible!&mdash;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Hearken all earth!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">We, Bacchus, in the might of our great mirth,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">To all who reverence us, are right thinkers;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Hear, all ye drinkers!</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Give ear and give faith to the edict divine;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">Montepulciano's the King of all wine.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is necessary, however, that our modern barbarian should
+travel to Montepulciano itself, and there obtain a flask of
+<i>manna</i> or <i>vino nobile</i> from some trusty cellar-master.
+He will not find it bottled in the inns or restaurants upon his
+road.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_10" id="Footnote_1_10" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_10"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> From
+Leigh Hunt's Translation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<h3>IV</h3>
+
+<p>The landscape and the wine of Montepulciano are both well worth
+the trouble of a visit to this somewhat inaccessible city. Yet more
+remains to be said about the attractions of the town itself. In the
+Duomo, which was spoiled by unintelligent rebuilding at a dismal
+epoch of barren art, are fragments of one of the rarest monuments
+of Tuscan sculpture. This is the tomb of Bartolommeo Aragazzi. He
+was a native of Montepulciano, and secretary to Pope Martin V.,
+that <i>Papa</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg096" id=
+"pg096">96</a></span> <i>Martino non vale un quattrino</i>, on
+whom, during his long residence in Florence, the street-boys made
+their rhymes. Twelve years before his death he commissioned
+Donatello and Michelozzo Michelozzi, who about that period were
+working together upon the monuments of Pope John XXIII. and
+Cardinal Brancacci, to erect his own tomb at the enormous cost of
+twenty-four thousand scudi. That thirst for immortality of fame,
+which inspired the humanists of the Renaissance, prompted Aragazzi
+to this princely expenditure. Yet, having somehow won the hatred of
+his fellow-students, he was immediately censured for excessive
+vanity. Lionardo Bruni makes his monument the theme of a ferocious
+onslaught. Writing to Poggio Bracciolini, Bruni tells a story how,
+while travelling through the country of Arezzo, he met a train of
+oxen dragging heavy waggons piled with marble columns, statues, and
+all the necessary details of a sumptuous sepulchre. He stopped, and
+asked what it all meant. Then one of the contractors for this
+transport, wiping the sweat from his forehead, in utter weariness
+of the vexatious labour, at the last end of his temper, answered:
+'May the gods destroy all poets, past, present, and future.' I
+inquired what he had to do with poets, and how they had annoyed
+him. 'Just this,' he replied, 'that this poet, lately deceased, a
+fool and windy-pated fellow, has ordered a monument for himself;
+and with a view to erecting it, these marbles are being dragged to
+Montepulciano; but I doubt whether we shall contrive to get them up
+there. The roads are too bad.' 'But,' cried I, 'do you believe
+<i>that</i> man was a poet&mdash;that dunce who had no science,
+nay, nor knowledge either? who only rose above the heads of men by
+vanity and doltishness?' 'I don't know,' he answered, 'nor did I
+ever hear tell, while he was alive, about his being called a poet;
+but his fellow-townsmen now decide he was one; nay, if he had but
+left a few more money-bags, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg097"
+id="pg097">97</a></span> they'd swear he was a god. Anyhow, but for
+his having been a poet, I would not have cursed poets in general.'
+Whereupon, the malevolent Bruni withdrew, and composed a
+scorpion-tailed oration, addressed to his friend Poggio, on the
+suggested theme of 'diuturnity in monuments,' and false ambition.
+Our old friends of humanistic learning&mdash;Cyrus, Alexander,
+C&aelig;sar&mdash;meet us in these frothy paragraphs. Cambyses,
+Xerxes, Artaxerxes, Darius, are thrown in to make the gruel of
+rhetoric 'thick and slab.' The whole epistle ends in a long-drawn
+peroration of invective against 'that excrement in human shape,'
+who had had the ill-luck, by pretence to scholarship, by big gains
+from the Papal treasury, by something in his manners alien from the
+easy-going customs of the Roman Court, to rouse the rancour of his
+fellow-humanists.</p>
+
+<p>I have dwelt upon this episode, partly because it illustrates
+the peculiar thirst for glory in the students of that time, but
+more especially because it casts a thin clear thread of actual
+light upon the masterpiece which, having been transported with this
+difficulty from Donatello's workshop, is now to be seen by all
+lovers of fine art, in part at least, at Montepulciano. In part at
+least: the phrase is pathetic. Poor Aragazzi, who thirsted so for
+'diuturnity in monuments,' who had been so cruelly assaulted in the
+grave by humanistic jealousy, expressing its malevolence with
+humanistic crudity of satire, was destined after all to be
+defrauded of his well-paid tomb. The monument, a master work of
+Donatello and his collaborator, was duly erected. The oxen and the
+contractors, it appears, had floundered through the mud of
+Valdichiana, and struggled up the mountain-slopes of Montepulciano.
+But when the church, which this triumph of art adorned, came to be
+repaired, the miracle of beauty was dismembered. The sculpture for
+which Aragazzi spent his thousands of crowns, which Donatello
+touched with his immortalising chisel, over <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg098" id="pg098">98</a></span> which the
+contractors vented their curses and Bruni eased his bile; these
+marbles are now visible as mere <i>disjecta membra</i> in a church
+which, lacking them, has little to detain a traveller's haste.</p>
+
+<p>On the left hand of the central door, as you enter, Aragazzi
+lies, in senatorial robes, asleep; his head turned slightly to the
+right upon the pillow, his hands folded over his breast. Very noble
+are the draperies, and dignified the deep tranquillity of slumber.
+Here, we say, is a good man fallen upon sleep, awaiting
+resurrection. The one commanding theme of Christian sculpture, in
+an age of Pagan feeling, has been adequately rendered. Bartolommeo
+Aragazzi, like Ilaria led Carretto at Lucca, like the canopied
+doges in S. Zanipolo at Venice, like the Acciauoli in the
+Florentine Certosa, like the Cardinal di Portogallo in Samminiato,
+is carved for us as he had been in life, but with that life
+suspended, its fever all smoothed out, its agitations over, its
+pettinesses dignified by death. This marmoreal repose of the once
+active man symbolises for our imagination the state into which he
+passed four centuries ago, but in which, according to the creed, he
+still abides, reserved for judgment and re-incarnation. The flesh,
+clad with which he walked our earth, may moulder in the vaults
+beneath. But it will one day rise again; and art has here presented
+it imperishable to our gaze. This is how the Christian sculptors,
+inspired by the majestic calm of classic art, dedicated a Christian
+to the genius of repose. Among the nations of antiquity this repose
+of death was eternal; and being unable to conceive of a man's body
+otherwise than for ever obliterated by the flames of funeral, they
+were perforce led back to actual life when they would carve his
+portrait on a tomb. But for Christianity the rest of the grave has
+ceased to be eternal. Centuries may pass, but in the end it must be
+broken. Therefore art is justified in <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg099" id="pg099">99</a></span> showing us the man himself in
+an imagined state of sleep. Yet this imagined state of sleep is so
+incalculably long, and by the will of God withdrawn from human
+prophecy, that the ages sweeping over the dead man before the
+trumpets of archangels wake him, shall sooner wear away memorial
+stone than stir his slumber. It is a slumber, too, unterrified,
+unentertained by dreams. Suspended animation finds no fuller
+symbolism than the sculptor here presents to us in abstract
+form.</p>
+
+<p>The boys of Montepulciano have scratched Messer Aragazzi's
+sleeping figure with <i>graffiti</i> at their own free will. Yet
+they have had no power to erase the poetry of Donatello's mighty
+style. That, in spite of Bruni's envy, in spite of injurious time,
+in spite of the still worse insult of the modernised cathedral and
+the desecrated monument, embalms him in our memory and secures for
+him the diuturnity for which he paid his twenty thousand crowns.
+Money, methinks, beholding him, was rarely better expended on a
+similar ambition. And ambition of this sort, relying on the genius
+of such a master to give it wings for perpetuity of time, is,
+<i>pace</i> Lionardo Bruni, not ignoble.</p>
+
+<p>cpposite the figure of Messer Aragazzi are two square basreliefs
+from the same monument, fixed against piers of the nave. One
+represents Madonna enthroned among worshippers; members, it may be
+supposed, of Aragazzi's household. Three angelic children,
+supporting the child Christ upon her lap, complete that pyramidal
+form of composition which Fra Bartolommeo was afterwards to use
+with such effect in painting. The other basrelief shows a group of
+grave men and youths, clasping hands with loveliest interlacement;
+the placid sentiment of human fellowship translated into harmonies
+of sculptured form. Children below run up to touch their knees, and
+reach out boyish <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg100" id=
+"pg100">100</a></span> arms to welcome them. Two young men, with
+half-draped busts and waving hair blown off their foreheads,
+anticipate the type of adolescence which Andrea del Sarto perfected
+in his S. John. We might imagine that this masterly panel was
+intended to represent the arrival of Messer Aragazzi in his home.
+It is a scene from the domestic life of the dead man, duly
+subordinated to the recumbent figure, which, when the monument was
+perfect, would have dominated the whole composition.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing in the range of Donatello's work surpasses these two
+basreliefs for harmonies of line and grouping, for choice of form,
+for beauty of expression, and for smoothness of surface-working.
+The marble is of great delicacy, and is wrought to a wax-like
+surface. At the high altar are three more fragments from the
+mutilated tomb. One is a long low frieze of children bearing
+garlands, which probably formed the base of Aragazzi's monument,
+and now serves for a predella. The remaining pieces are detached
+statues of Fortitude and Faith. The former reminds us of
+Donatello's S. George; the latter is twisted into a strained
+attitude, full of character, but lacking grace. What the effect of
+these emblematic figures would have been when harmonised by the
+architectural proportions of the sepulchre, the repose of Aragazzi
+on his sarcophagus, the suavity of the two square panels and the
+rhythmic beauty of the frieze, it is not easy to conjecture. But
+rudely severed from their surroundings, and exposed in isolation,
+one at each side of the altar, they leave an impression of awkward
+discomfort on the memory. A certain hardness, peculiar to the
+Florentine manner, is felt in them. But this quality may have been
+intended by the sculptors for the sake of contrast with what is
+eminently graceful, peaceful, and melodious in the other fragments
+of the ruined masterpiece.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg101" id=
+"pg101">101</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>V</h3>
+
+<p>At a certain point in the main street, rather more than halfway
+from the Albergo del Marzocco to the piazza, a tablet has been let
+into the wall upon the left-hand side. This records the fact that
+here in 1454 was born Angelo Ambrogini, the special glory of
+Montepulciano, the greatest classical scholar and the greatest
+Italian poet of the fifteenth century. He is better known in the
+history of literature as Poliziano, or Politianus, a name he took
+from his native city, when he came, a marvellous boy, at the age of
+ten, to Florence, and joined the household of Lorenzo de' Medici.
+He had already claims upon Lorenzo's hospitality. For his father,
+Benedetto, by adopting the cause of Piero de' Medici in
+Montepulciano, had exposed himself to bitter feuds and hatred of
+his fellow-citizens. To this animosity of party warfare he fell a
+victim a few years previously. We only know that he was murdered,
+and that he left a helpless widow with five children, of whom
+Angelo was the eldest. The Ambrogini or Cini were a family of some
+importance in Montepulciano; and their dwelling-house is a palace
+of considerable size. From its eastern windows the eye can sweep
+that vast expanse of country, embracing the lakes of Thrasymene and
+Chiusi, which has been already described. What would have happened,
+we wonder, if Messer Benedetto, the learned jurist, had not
+espoused the Medicean cause and embroiled himself with murderous
+antagonists? Would the little Angelo have grown up in this quiet
+town, and practised law, and lived and died a citizen of
+Montepulciano? In that case the lecture-rooms of Florence would
+never have echoed to the sonorous hexameters of the 'Rusticus' and
+'Ambra.' Italian literature would have lacked the 'Stanze' and
+'Orfeo.' European scholarship would have been defrauded <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg102" id="pg102">102</a></span> of the
+impulse given to it by the 'Miscellanea.' The study of Roman law
+would have missed those labours on the Pandects, with which the
+name of Politian is honourably associated. From the Florentine
+society of the fifteenth century would have disappeared the
+commanding central figure of humanism, which now contrasts
+dramatically with the stern monastic Prior of S. Mark. Benedetto's
+tragic death gave Poliziano to Italy and to posterity.</p>
+
+<h3>VI</h3>
+
+<p>Those who have a day to spare at Montepulciano can scarcely
+spend it better than in an excursion to Pienza and San Quirico.
+Leaving the city by the road which takes a westerly direction, the
+first object of interest is the Church of San Biagio, placed on a
+fertile plateau immediately beneath the ancient acropolis. It was
+erected by Antonio di San Gallo in 1518, and is one of the most
+perfect specimens existing of the sober classical style. The Church
+consists of a Greek square, continued at the east end into a
+semicircular tribune, surmounted by a central cupola, and flanked
+by a detached bell-tower, ending in a pyramidal spire. The whole is
+built of solid yellow travertine, a material which, by its warmth
+of colour, is pleasing to the eye, and mitigates the mathematical
+severity of the design. Upon entering, we feel at once what Alberti
+called the music of this style; its large and simple harmonies,
+depending for effect upon sincerity of plan and justice of balance.
+The square masses of the main building, the projecting cornices and
+rounded tribune, meet together and soar up into the cupola; while
+the grand but austere proportions of the arches and the piers
+compose a symphony of perfectly concordant lines. The music is
+grave and solemn, architecturally expressed in terms of measured
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg103" id="pg103">103</a></span>
+space and outlined symmetry. The whole effect is that of one thing
+pleasant to look upon, agreeably appealing to our sense of unity,
+charming us by grace and repose; not stimulative nor suggestive,
+not multiform nor mysterious. We are reminded of the temples
+imagined by Francesco Colonna, and figured in his
+<i>Hypnerotomachia Poliphili</i>. One of these shrines has, we
+feel, come into actual existence here; and the religious ceremonies
+for which it is adapted are not those of the Christian worship.
+Some more primitive, less spiritual rites, involving less of tragic
+awe and deep-wrought symbolism, should be here performed. It is
+better suited for Polifilo's lustration by Venus Physizoe than for
+the mass on Easter morning. And in this respect, the sentiment of
+the architecture is exactly faithful to that mood of religious
+feeling which appeared in Italy under the influences of the
+classical revival&mdash;when the essential doctrines of
+Christianity were blurred with Pantheism; when Jehovah became
+<i>Jupiter Optimus Maximus</i>; and Jesus was the <i>Heros</i> of
+Calvary, and nuns were <i>Virgines Vestales</i>. In literature this
+mood often strikes us as insincere and artificial. But it admitted
+of realisation and showed itself to be profoundly felt in
+architecture.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving Madonna di San Biagio, the road strikes at once
+into an open country, expanding on the right towards the woody
+ridge of Monte Fallonica, on the left toward Cetona and Radicofani,
+with Monte Amiata full in front&mdash;its double crest and long
+volcanic slope recalling Etna; the belt of embrowned forest on its
+flank, made luminous by sunlight. Far away stretches the Sienese
+Maremma; Siena dimly visible upon her gentle hill; and still
+beyond, the pyramid of Volterra, huge and cloud-like, piled against
+the sky. The road, as is almost invariable in this district, keeps
+to the highest line of ridges, winding much, and following <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg104" id="pg104">104</a></span> the
+dimplings of the earthy hills. Here and there a solitary castello,
+rusty with old age, and turned into a farm, juts into
+picturesqueness from some point of vantage on a mound surrounded
+with green tillage. But soon the dull and intolerable <i>creta</i>,
+ash-grey earth, without a vestige of vegetation, furrowed by rain,
+and desolately breaking into gullies, swallows up variety and
+charm. It is difficult to believe that this <i>creta</i> of
+Southern Tuscany, which has all the appearance of barrenness, and
+is a positive deformity in the landscape, can be really fruitful.
+Yet we are frequently being told that it only needs assiduous
+labour to render it enormously productive.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached Pienza we were already in the middle of a
+country without cultivation, abandoned to the marl. It is a little
+place, perched upon the ledge of a long sliding hill, which
+commands the vale of Orcia; Monte Amiata soaring in a&euml;rial
+majesty beyond. Its old name was Cosignano. But it had the honour
+of giving birth to &AElig;neas Sylvius Piccolomini, who, when he
+was elected to the Papacy and had assumed the title of Pius II.,
+determined to transform and dignify his native village, and to call
+it after his own name. From that time forward Cosignano has been
+known as Pienza.</p>
+
+<p>Pius II. succeeded effectually in leaving his mark upon the
+town. And this forms its main interest at the present time. We see
+in Pienza how the most active-minded and intelligent man of his
+epoch, the representative genius of Italy in the middle of the
+fifteenth century, commanding vast wealth and the Pontifical
+prestige, worked out his whim of city-building. The experiment had
+to be made upon a small scale; for Pienza was then and was destined
+to remain a village. Yet here, upon this miniature piazza&mdash;in
+modern as in ancient Italy the meeting-point of civic life, the
+forum&mdash; <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg105" id=
+"pg105">105</a></span> we find a cathedral, a palace of the bishop,
+a palace of the feudal lord, and a palace of the commune, arranged
+upon a well-considered plan, and executed after one design in a
+consistent style. The religious, municipal, signorial, and
+ecclesiastical functions of the little town are centralised around
+the open market-place, on which the common people transacted
+business and discussed affairs. Pius entrusted the realisation of
+his scheme to a Florentine architect; whether Bernardo Rossellino,
+or a certain Bernardo di Lorenzo, is still uncertain. The same
+artist, working in the flat manner of Florentine domestic
+architecture, with rusticated basements, rounded windows and bold
+projecting cornices&mdash;the manner which is so nobly illustrated
+by the Rucellai and Strozzi palaces at Florence&mdash;executed also
+for Pius the monumental Palazzo Piccolomini at Siena. It is a great
+misfortune for the group of buildings he designed at Pienza, that
+they are huddled together in close quarters on a square too small
+for their effect. A want of space is peculiarly injurious to the
+architecture of this date, 1462, which, itself geometrical and
+spatial, demands a certain harmony and liberty in its surroundings,
+a proportion between the room occupied by each building and the
+masses of the edifice. The style is severe and prosaic. Those
+charming episodes and accidents of fancy, in which the Gothic style
+and the style of the earlier Lombard Renaissance abounded, are
+wholly wanting to the rigid, mathematical, hard-headed genius of
+the Florentine quattrocento. Pienza, therefore, disappoints us. Its
+heavy palace frontispieces shut the spirit up in a tight box. We
+seem unable to breathe, and lack that element of life and
+picturesqueness which the splendid retinues of nobles in the age of
+Pinturicchio might have added to the now forlorn Piazza.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the material is a fine warm travertine, mellowing to <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg106" id="pg106">106</a></span> dark red,
+brightening to golden, with some details, especially the tower of
+the Palazzo Comunale, in red brick. This building, by the way, is
+imitated in miniature from that of Florence. The cathedral is a
+small church of three aisles, equally high, ending in what the
+French would call a <i>chevet</i>. Pius had observed this plan of
+construction somewhere in Austria, and commanded his architect,
+Bernardo, to observe it in his plan. He was attracted by the
+facilities for window-lighting which it offered; and what is very
+singular, he provided by the Bull of his foundation for keeping the
+walls of the interior free from frescoes and other coloured
+decorations. The result is that, though the interior effect is
+pleasing, the church presents a frigid aspect to eyes familiarised
+with warmth of tone in other buildings of that period. The details
+of the columns and friezes are classical; and the fa&ccedil;ade,
+strictly corresponding to the structure, and very honest in its
+decorative elements, is also of the earlier Renaissance style. But
+the vaulting and some of the windows are pointed.</p>
+
+<p>The Palazzo Piccolomini, standing at the right hand of the
+Duomo, is a vast square edifice. The walls are flat and even,
+pierced at regular intervals with windows, except upon the
+south-west side, where the rectangular design is broken by a noble
+double Loggiata, gallery rising above gallery&mdash;serene curves
+of arches, grandly proportioned columns, massive balustrades, a
+spacious corridor, a roomy vaulting&mdash;opening out upon the
+palace garden, and offering fair prospect over the wooded heights
+of Castiglione and Rocca d' Orcia, up to Radicofani and shadowy
+Amiata. It was in these double tiers of galleries, in the garden
+beneath and in the open inner square of the palazzo, that the great
+life of Italian aristocracy displayed itself. Four centuries ago
+these spaces, now so desolate in their immensity, echoed to the
+tread of serving-men, the songs of pages; horse-hooves struck upon
+the pavement <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg107" id=
+"pg107">107</a></span> of the court; spurs jingled on the
+staircases; the brocaded trains of ladies sweeping from their
+chambers rustled on the marbles of the loggia; knights let their
+hawks fly from the garden parapets; cardinals and abbreviators
+gathered round the doors from which the Pope would issue, when he
+rose from his siesta to take the cool of evening in those airy
+colonnades. How impossible it is to realise that scene amid this
+solitude! The palazzo still belongs to the Piccolomini family. But
+it has fallen into something worse than ruin&mdash;the squalor of
+half-starved existence, shorn of all that justified its grand
+proportions. Partition-walls have been run up across its halls to
+meet the requirements of our contracted modern customs. Nothing
+remains of the original decorations except one carved
+chimney-piece, an emblazoned shield, and a frescoed portrait of the
+founder. All movable treasures have been made away with. And yet
+the carved heraldics of the exterior, the coat of Piccolomini,
+'argent, on a cross azure five crescents or,' the Papal ensigns,
+keys, and tiara, and the monogram of Pius, prove that this country
+dwelling of a Pope must once have been rich in details befitting
+its magnificence. With the exception of the very small portion
+reserved for the Signori, when they visit Pienza, the palace has
+become a granary for country produce in a starveling land. There
+was one redeeming point about it to my mind. That was the handsome
+young man, with earnest Tuscan eyes and a wonderfully sweet voice,
+the servant of the Piccolomini family, who lives here with his
+crippled father, and who showed us over the apartments.</p>
+
+<p>We left Pienza and drove on to S. Quirico, through the same
+wrinkled wilderness of marl; wasteful, uncultivated, bare to every
+wind that blows. A cruel blast was sweeping from the sea, and Monte
+Amiata darkened with rain-clouds. Still the pictures, which formed
+themselves at intervals, as we <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg108" id="pg108">108</a></span> wound along these barren ridges,
+were very fair to look upon, especially one not far from S.
+Quirico. It had for fore-ground a stretch of
+tilth&mdash;olive-trees, honeysuckle hedges, and cypresses. Beyond
+soared Amiata in all its breadth and blue air-blackness, bearing on
+its mighty flanks the broken cliffs and tufted woods of Castiglione
+and the Rocca d'Orcia; eagles' nests emerging from a fertile
+valley-champaign, into which the eye was led for rest. It so
+chanced that a band of sunlight, escaping from filmy clouds,
+touched this picture with silvery greys and soft greens&mdash;a
+suffusion of vaporous radiance, which made it for one moment a
+Claude landscape.</p>
+
+<p>S. Quirico was keeping <i>festa</i>. The streets were crowded
+with healthy, handsome men and women from the contado. This village
+lies on the edge of a great oasis in the Sienese desert&mdash;an
+oasis formed by the waters of the Orcia and Asso sweeping down to
+join Ombrone, and stretching on to Montalcino. We put up at the
+sign of the 'Two Hares,' where a notable housewife gave us a dinner
+of all we could desire; <i>frittata di cervello</i>, good fish,
+roast lamb stuffed with rosemary, salad and cheese, with excellent
+wine and black coffee, at the rate of three <i>lire</i> a head.</p>
+
+<p>The attraction of S. Quirico is its gem-like little collegiata,
+a Lombard church of the ninth century, with carved portals of the
+thirteenth. It is built of golden travertine; some details in brown
+sandstone. The western and southern portals have pillars resting on
+the backs of lions. On the western side these pillars are four
+slender columns, linked by snake-like ligatures. On the southern
+side they consist of two carved figures&mdash;possibly S. John and
+the Archangel Michael. There is great freedom and beauty in these
+statues, as also in the lions which support them, recalling the
+early French and German manner. In addition, one finds the <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg109" id="pg109">109</a></span> usual
+Lombard grotesques&mdash;two sea-monsters, biting each other;
+harpy-birds; a dragon with a twisted tail; little men grinning and
+squatting in adaptation to coigns and angles of the windows. The
+toothed and chevron patterns of the north are quaintly blent with
+rude acanthus scrolls and classical egg-mouldings. Over the western
+porch is a Gothic rose window. Altogether this church must be
+reckoned one of the most curious specimens of that hybrid
+architecture, fusing and appropriating different manners, which
+perplexes the student in Central Italy. It seems strangely out of
+place in Tuscany. Yet, if what one reads of Toscanella, a village
+between Viterbo and Orbetello, be true, there exist examples of a
+similar fantastic Lombard style even lower down.</p>
+
+<p>The interior was most disastrously gutted and 'restored' in
+1731: its open wooden roof masked by a false stucco vaulting. A few
+relics, spared by the eighteenth-century Vandals, show that the
+church was once rich in antique curiosities. A marble knight in
+armour lies on his back, half hidden by the pulpit stairs. And in
+the choir are half a dozen rarely beautiful panels of tarsia,
+executed in a bold style and on a large scale. One design&mdash;a
+man throwing his face back, and singing, while he plays a
+mandoline; with long thick hair and fanciful beretta; behind him a
+fine line of cypress and other trees&mdash;struck me as singularly
+lovely. In another I noticed a branch of peach, broad leaves and
+ripe fruit, not only drawn with remarkable grace and power, but so
+modelled as to stand out with the roundness of reality.</p>
+
+<p>The whole drive of three hours back to Montepulciano was one
+long banquet of inimitable distant views. Next morning, having to
+take farewell of the place, we climbed to the Castello, or
+<i>arx</i> of the old city! It is a ruined spot, outside the
+present walls, upon the southern slope, where there is now a farm,
+and a fair space of short sheep-cropped turf, very green and <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg110" id="pg110">110</a></span> grassy,
+and gemmed with little pink geraniums as in England in such places.
+The walls of the old castle, overgrown with ivy, are broken down to
+their foundations. This may possibly have been done when
+Montepulciano was dismantled by the Sienese in 1232. At that date
+the Commune succumbed to its more powerful neighbours. The half of
+its inhabitants were murdered, and its fortifications were
+destroyed. Such episodes are common enough in the history of that
+internecine struggle for existence between the Italian
+municipalities, which preceded the more famous strife of Guelfs and
+Ghibellines. Stretched upon the smooth turf of the Castello, we
+bade adieu to the divine landscape bathed in light and mountain
+air&mdash;to Thrasymene and Chiusi and Cetona; to Amiata, Pienza,
+and S. Quirico; to Montalcino and the mountains of Volterra; to
+Siena and Cortona; and, closer, to Monte Fallonica, Madonna di
+Biagio, the house-roofs and the Palazzo tower of Montepulciano.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg111" id=
+"pg111">111</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="PERUGIA" id="PERUGIA" /><i>PERUGIA</i></h3>
+
+<p>Perugia is the empress of hill-set Italian cities. Southward
+from her high-built battlements and church towers the eye can sweep
+a circuit of the Apennines unrivalled in its width. From cloudlike
+Radicofani, above Siena in the west, to snow-capped Monte Catria,
+beneath whose summit Dante spent those saddest months of solitude
+in 1313, the mountains curve continuously in lines of austere
+dignity and tempered sweetness. Assisi, Spoleto, Todi, Trevi, crown
+lesser heights within the range of vision. Here and there the
+glimpse of distant rivers lights a silver spark upon the plain.
+Those hills conceal Lake Thrasymene; and there lies Orvieto, and
+Ancona there: while at our feet the Umbrian champaign, breaking
+away into the valley of the Tiber, spreads in all the largeness of
+majestically converging mountain-slopes. This is a landscape which
+can never lose its charm. Whether it be purple golden summer, or
+winter with sad tints of russet woods and faintly rosy snows, or
+spring attired in tenderest green of new-fledged trees and budding
+flowers, the air is always pure and light and finely tempered here.
+City gates, sombre as their own antiquity, frame vistas of the
+laughing fields. Terraces, flanked on either side by jutting
+masonry, cut clear vignettes of olive-hoary slopes, with
+cypress-shadowed farms in hollows of the hills. Each coign or point
+of vantage carries a bastion or tower of Etruscan, Roman,
+medi&aelig;val architecture, tracing the limits of the town upon
+its mountain plateau. Everywhere <a name="pg112" id=
+"pg112"></a><span class="pagenum">112</span> art and nature lie
+side by side in amity beneath a sky so pure and delicate, that from
+its limpid depth the spirit seems to drink new life. What air-tints
+of lilac, orange, and pale amethyst are shed upon those vast
+ethereal hills and undulating plains! What wandering cloud-shadows
+sail across this sea of olives and of vines, with here and there a
+fleece of vapour or a column of blue smoke from charcoal burners on
+the mountain flank! To southward, far away beyond those hills, is
+felt the presence of eternal Rome, not seen, but clearly indicated
+by the hurrying of a hundred streams that swell the Tiber.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of the town itself there is plenty to
+attract the student of antiquities, or art, or history. He may
+trace the walls of the Etruscan city, and explore the vaults where
+the dust of the Volumnii lies coffered in sarcophagi and urns. Mild
+faces of grave deities lean from the living tufa above those narrow
+alcoves, where the chisel-marks are still fresh, and where the
+vigilant lamps still hang suspended from the roof by leaden chains.
+Or, in the Museum, he may read on basreliefs and vases how gloomy
+and morose were the superstitions of those obscure forerunners of
+majestic Rome. The piazza offers one of the most perfect Gothic
+fa&ccedil;ades, in its Palazzo Pubblico, to be found in Italy. The
+flight of marble steps is guarded from above by the bronze griffin
+of Perugia and the Baglioni, with the bronze lion of the Guelf
+faction, to which the town was ever faithful. Upon their marble
+brackets they ramp in all the lean ferocity of feudal heraldry, and
+from their claws hang down the chains wrested in old warfare from
+some barricaded gateway of Siena. Below is the fountain, on the
+many-sided curves of which Giovanni Pisano sculptured, in quaint
+statuettes and basreliefs, all the learning of the middle ages,
+from the Bible history down to fables of &AElig;sop and allegories
+of the several months. Facing the same piazza <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg113" id="pg113">113</a></span> is the Sala del
+Cambio, a medi&aelig;val Bourse, with its tribunal for the
+settlement of mercantile disputes, and its exquisite carved
+woodwork and frescoes, the masterpiece of Perugino's school. Hard
+by is the University, once crowded with native and foreign
+students, where the eloquence of Greek Demetrius in the first dawn
+of the Renaissance withdrew the gallants of Perugia&mdash;those
+slim youths with shocks of nut-brown hair beneath their tiny red
+caps, whose comely legs, encased in tight-fitting hose of two
+different colours, looked so strange to modern eyes upon the canvas
+of Signorelli&mdash;from their dice and wine-cups, and amours and
+daggers, to grave studies in the lore of Greece and Rome.</p>
+
+<p>This piazza, the scene of all the bloodiest tragedies in
+Perugian annals, is closed at the north end by the Cathedral, with
+the open pulpit in its wall from which S. Bernardino of Siena
+preached peace in vain. The citizens wept to hear his words: a
+bonfire of vanities was lighted on the flags beside Pisano's
+fountain: foe kissed foe: and the same cowl of S. Francis was set
+in token of repentance on heads that long had schemed destruction,
+each for each. But a few days passed, and the penitents returned to
+cut each other's throat. Often and often have those steps of the
+Duomo run with blood of Baglioni, Oddi, Arcipreti, and La Staffa.
+Once the whole church had to be washed with wine and blessed anew
+before the rites of Christianity could be resumed in its desecrated
+aisles. It was here that within the space of two days, in 1500, the
+catafalque was raised for the murdered Astorre, and for his
+traitorous cousin Grifonetto Baglioni. Here, too, if more ancient
+tradition does not err, were stretched the corpses of twenty-seven
+members of the same great house at the end of one of their grim
+combats.</p>
+
+<p>No Italian city illustrates more forcibly than Perugia the
+violent contrasts of the earlier Renaissance. This is perhaps <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg114" id="pg114">114</a></span> its most
+essential characteristic&mdash;that which constitutes its chief
+&aelig;sthetic interest. To many travellers the name of Perugia
+suggests at once the painter who, more than any other, gave
+expression to devout emotions in consummate works of pietistic art.
+They remember how Raphael, when a boy, with Pinturicchio, Lo
+Spagna, and Adone Doni, in the workshop of Pietro Perugino, learned
+the secret of that style to which he gave sublimity and freedom in
+his Madonnas di San Sisto, di Foligno, and del Cardellino. But the
+students of medi&aelig;val history in detail know Perugia far
+better as the lion's lair of one of the most ferocious broods of
+heroic ruffians Italy can boast. To them the name of Perugia
+suggests at once the great house of the Baglioni, who drenched
+Umbria with blood, and gave the broad fields of Assisi to the wolf,
+and who through six successive generations bred captains for the
+armies of Venice, Florence, Naples, and the Church.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_11" id="FNanchor_1_11" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_11" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> That the trade of
+Perugino in religious pictures should have been carried on in the
+city which shared the factions of the Baglioni&mdash;that Raphael
+should have been painting Pietas while Astorre and Simonetto were
+being murdered by the beautiful young Grifonetto&mdash;is a paradox
+of the purest water in the history of civilisation.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_11" id="Footnote_1_11" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_11"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Most of
+the references in this essay are made to the Perugian chronicles of
+Graziani, Matarazzo, Bontempi, and Frolliere, in the <i>Archivio
+Storico Italiano</i>, vol. xvi. parts 1 and 2. Ariodante Fabretti's
+<i>Biografie dei Capitani Venturieri dell' Umbria</i> supply some
+details.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The art of Perugino implied a large number of devout and wealthy
+patrons, a public not only capable of comprehending him, but also
+eager to restrict his great powers within the limits of purely
+devotional delineation. The feuds and passions of the Baglioni, on
+the other hand, implied a society in which egregious crimes only
+needed success to be accounted glorious, where force, cruelty, and
+cynical craft reigned <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg115" id=
+"pg115">115</a></span> supreme, and where the animal instincts
+attained gigantic proportions in the persons of splendid young
+athletic despots. Even the names of these Baglioni, Astorre,
+Lavinia, Zenobia, Atalanta, Troilo, Ercole, Annibale, Ascanio,
+Penelope, Orazio, and so forth, clash with the sweet mild forms of
+Perugino, whose very executioners are candidates for Paradise, and
+kill their martyrs with compunction.</p>
+
+<p>In Italy of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries such
+contradictions subsisted in the same place and under the conditions
+of a common culture, because there was no limit to the development
+of personality. Character was far more absolute then than now. The
+force of the modern world, working in the men of those times like
+powerful wine, as yet displayed itself only as a spirit of freedom
+and expansion and revolt. The strait laces of medi&aelig;val
+Christianity were loosened. The coercive action of public opinion
+had not yet made itself dominant. That was an age of adolescence,
+in which men were and dared to be <i>themselves</i> for good or
+evil. Hypocrisy, except for some solid, well-defined, selfish
+purpose, was unknown: the deference to established canons of
+decorum which constitutes more than half of our so-called morality,
+would have been scarcely intelligible to an Italian. The outlines
+of individuality were therefore strongly accentuated. Life itself
+was dramatic in its incidents and motives, its catastrophes and
+contrasts. These conditions, eminently favourable to the growth of
+arts and the pursuit of science, were no less conducive to the
+hypertrophy of passions, and to the full development of ferocious
+and inhuman personalities. Every man did what seemed good in his
+own eyes. Far less restrained than we are by the verdict of his
+neighbours, but bound by faith more blind and fiercer
+superstitions, he displayed the contradictions of his character in
+picturesque chiaroscuro. What he could was the limit set on what
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg116" id="pg116">116</a></span> he
+would. Therefore, considering the infinite varieties of human
+temperaments, it was not merely possible, but natural, for Pietro
+Perugino and Gianpaolo Baglioni to be inhabitants at the same time
+of the selfsame city, and for the pious Atalanta to mourn the
+bloodshed and the treason of her Achillean son, the young and
+terrible Grifone. Here, in a word, in Perugia, beneath the fierce
+blaze of the Renaissance, were brought into splendid contrast both
+the martial violence and the religious sentiment of
+medi&aelig;valism, raised for a moment to the elevation of fine
+art.</p>
+
+<p>Some of Perugino's qualities can be studied better in Perugia
+than elsewhere. Of his purely religious pictures&mdash;altar-pieces
+of Madonna and Saints, martyrdoms of S. Sebastian, Crucifixions,
+Ascensions, Annunciations, and Depositions from the
+Cross,&mdash;fine specimens are exhibited in nearly all the
+galleries of Europe. A large number of his works and of those of
+his scholars may be seen assembled in the Pinacoteca of Perugia.
+Yet the student of his pietistic style finds little here of novelty
+to notice. It is in the Sala del Cambio that we gain a really new
+conception of his faculty. Upon the decoration of that little hall
+he concentrated all his powers of invention. The frescoes of the
+Transfiguration and the Nativity, which face the great door, are
+the triumphs of his devotional manner. On other panels of the
+chamber he has portrayed the philosophers of Greece and Rome, the
+kings and generals of antiquity, the prophets and the sibyls who
+announced Christ's advent. The roof is covered with arabesques of
+delicate design and dainty execution&mdash;labyrinths of fanciful
+improvisation, in which flowers and foliage and human forms are
+woven into a harmonious framework for the medallions of the seven
+planets. The woodwork with which the hall is lined below the
+frescoes, shows to what a point of perfection the art of
+intarsiatura had <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg117" id=
+"pg117">117</a></span> been carried in his school. All these
+decorative masterpieces are the product of one ingenuous style.
+Uninfluenced by the Roman frescoes imitated by Raphael in his
+Loggie of the Vatican, they breathe the spirit of the earlier
+Renaissance, which created for itself free forms of grace and
+loveliness without a pattern, divining by its innate sense of
+beauty what the classic artists had achieved. Take for an example
+the medallion of the planet Jupiter. The king of gods and men,
+hoary-headed and mild-eyed, is seated in his chariot drawn by
+eagles: before him kneels Ganymede, a fair-haired, exquisite, slim
+page, with floating mantle and ribbands fluttering round his tight
+hose and jerkin. Such were the cup-bearers of Galeazzo Sforza and
+Gianpaolo Baglioni. Then compare this fresco with the Jupiter in
+mosaic upon the cupola of the Chigi chapel in S. Maria del Popolo
+at Rome. A new age of experience had passed over Raphael between
+his execution of Perugino's design in the one and his conception of
+the other. He had seen the marbles of the Vatican, and had heard of
+Plato in the interval: the simple graces of the earlier Renaissance
+were no longer enough for him; but he must realise the thought of
+classic myths in his new manner. In the same way we may compare
+this Transfiguration with Raphael's last picture, these sibyls with
+those of S. Maria della Pace, these sages with the School of
+Athens, these warriors with the Battle of Maxentius. What is
+characteristic of the full-grown Raphael is his universal
+comprehension, his royal faculty for representing past and present,
+near and distant, things the most diverse, by forms ideal and yet
+distinctive. Each phase of the world's history and of human
+activity receives from him appropriate and elevated expression.
+What is characteristic of the frescoes in the Sala del Cambio, and
+indeed of the whole manner of Perugino, is that all subjects,
+sacred or secular, allegorical or real, are <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg118" id="pg118">118</a></span> conceived in
+the same spirit of restrained and well-bred piety. There is no
+attempt at historical propriety or dramatic realism. Grave,
+ascetic, melancholy faces of saints are put on bodies of kings,
+generals, sages, sibyls, and deities alike. The same ribbands and
+studied draperies clothe and connect all. The same conventional
+attitudes of meditative gracefulness are repeated in each group.
+Yet, the whole effect, if somewhat feeble and insipid, is
+harmonious and thoughtful. We see that each part has proceeded from
+the same mind, in the same mood, and that the master's mind was no
+common one, the mood itself was noble. Good taste is everywhere
+apparent: the work throughout is a masterpiece of refined
+fancy.</p>
+
+<p>To Perugino the representative imagination was of less
+importance than a certain delicate and adequately ideal mode of
+feeling and conceiving. The consequent charm of his style is that
+everything is thought out and rendered visible in one decorous key.
+The worst that can be said of it is that its suavity inclines to
+mawkishness, and that its quietism borders upon sleepiness. We find
+it difficult not to accuse him of affectation. At the same time we
+are forced to allow that what he did, and what he refrained from
+doing, was determined by a purpose. A fresco of the Adoration of
+the Shepherds, and a picture of S. Sebastian in the Pinacoteca,
+where the archer on the right hand is drawn in a natural attitude
+with force and truth, show well enough what Perugino could do when
+he chose.</p>
+
+<p>The best way of explaining his conventionality, in which the
+supreme power of a master is always verging on the facile trick of
+a mannerist, is to suppose that the people of Perugia and the
+Umbrian highlands imposed on him this narrow mode of treatment. We
+may presume that he was always receiving orders for pictures to be
+executed in his well-known manner. <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg119" id="pg119">119</a></span> Celestial insipidity in art was
+the fashion in that Umbria which the Baglioni and the Popes laid
+waste from time to time with fire and sword.<a name="FNanchor_1_12"
+id="FNanchor_1_12" /><a href="#Footnote_1_12" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_12" id="Footnote_1_12" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_12"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It will
+not be forgotten by students of Italian history that Umbria was the
+cradle of the <i>Battuti</i> or Flagellants, who overspread Italy
+in the fourteenth century, and to whose devotion were due the
+<i>Laude</i>, or popular hymns of the religious confraternities,
+which in course of time produced the <i>Sacre Rappresentazioni</i>
+of fifteenth-century Florentine literature. Umbria, and especially
+Perugia and Assisi, seems to have been inventive in piety between
+1200 and 1400.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Therefore the painter who had made his reputation by placing
+devout young faces upon twisted necks, with a back-ground of limpid
+twilight and calm landscape, was forced by the fervour of his
+patrons, and his own desire for money, to perpetuate pious
+prettinesses long after he had ceased to feel them. It is just this
+widespread popularity of a master unrivalled in one line of
+devotional sentimentalism which makes the contrast between Perugino
+and the Baglioni family so striking.</p>
+
+<p>The Baglioni first came into notice during the wars they carried
+on with the Oddi of Perugia in the fourteenth and fifteenth
+centuries.<a name="FNanchor_1_13" id="FNanchor_1_13" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_13" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> This was one of
+those duels to the death, like that of the Visconti with the
+Torrensi of Milan, on which the fate of so many Italian cities in
+the middle ages hung. The nobles fought; the townsfolk assisted
+like a Greek chorus, sharing the passions of the actors, but
+contributing little to the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg120"
+id="pg120">120</a></span> catastrophe. The piazza was the theatre
+on which the tragedy was played. In this contest the Baglioni
+proved the stronger, and began to sway the state of Perugia after
+the irregular fashion of Italian despots. They had no legal right
+over the city, no hereditary magistracy, no title of princely
+authority.<a name="FNanchor_2_14" id="FNanchor_2_14" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_14" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The Church was
+reckoned the supreme administrator of the Perugian commonwealth.
+But in reality no man could set foot on the Umbrian plain without
+permission from the Baglioni. They elected the officers of state.
+The lives and goods of the citizens were at their discretion. When
+a Papal legate showed his face, they made the town too hot to hold
+him. One of Innocent VIII.'s nephews had been murdered by them.<a
+name="FNanchor_3_15" id="FNanchor_3_15" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_3_15" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> Another cardinal
+had shut himself up in a box, and sneaked on mule-back like a bale
+of merchandise through the gates to escape their fury. It was in
+vain that from time to time the people rose against them,
+massacring Pandolfo Baglioni on the public square in 1393, and
+joining with Ridolfo and Braccio of the dominant house to
+assassinate another Pandolfo with his son Niccolo in 1460. The more
+they were cut down, the more they flourished. The wealth they
+derived from their lordships in the duchy of Spoleto and the
+Umbrian hill-cities, and the treasures they accumulated in the
+service of the Italian republics, made them omnipotent in their
+native town. There they built tall houses on the site which Paul
+III. chose afterwards for his <i>castello</i>, and which is now an
+open place above the Porta San Carlo. From the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg121" id="pg121">121</a></span> balconies and
+turrets of these palaces, swarming with their <i>bravi</i>, they
+surveyed the splendid land that felt their force&mdash;a land
+which, even in midsummer, from sunrise to sunset keeps the light of
+day upon its up-turned face. And from this eyrie they issued forth
+to prey upon the plain, or to take their lust of love or blood
+within the city streets. The Baglioni spent but short time in the
+amusements of peace. From father to son they were warriors, and we
+have records of few Italian houses, except perhaps the Malatesti of
+Rimini, who equalled them in hardihood and fierceness. Especially
+were they noted for the remorseless <i>vendette</i> which they
+carried on among themselves, cousin tracking cousin to death with
+the ferocity and craft of sleuthhounds. Had they restrained these
+fratricidal passions, they might, perhaps, by following some common
+policy, like that of the Medici in Florence or the Bentivogli in
+Bologna, have successfully resisted the Papal authority and secured
+dynastic sovereignty.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_13" id="Footnote_1_13" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_13"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+Baglioni persecuted their rivals with persistent fury to the very
+last. Matarazzo tells how Morgante Baglioni gave a death-wound to
+his nephew, the young Carlo de li Oddi, in 1501: 'Dielli una ferita
+nella formosa faccia: el quale era in aspetto vago e bello giovane
+d' anni 23 o 24, <i>al quale uscivano e bionde tresse sotto la
+bella armadura</i>.' The same night his kinsman Pompeo was murdered
+in prison with this last lament upon his lips: 'O infelice casa
+degli Oddi, quale aveste tanta, fama di conduttieri, capitanie,
+cavaliere, speron d' oro, protonotarie, e abbate; et in uno solo
+tempo aveste homine quarantadue; e oggie, per me quale son ultimo,
+se asconde el nome de la magnifica e famosa casa degli Oddi, che
+mai al mondo non ser&agrave; p&iacute;u nominata' (p. 175).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_14" id="Footnote_2_14" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_14"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The
+Baglioni were lords of Spello, Bettona, Montalera, and other
+Umbrian burghs, but never of Perugia. Perugia had a civic
+constitution similar to that of Florence and other Guelf towns
+under the protection of the Holy See. The power of the eminent
+house was based only on wealth and prestige.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_15" id="Footnote_3_15" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_15"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See
+Matarazzo, <a href="#pg038">p. 38</a>. It is here that he
+relates the covert threat addressed by Guido Baglioni to Alexander
+VI., who was seeking to inveigle him into his clutches.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is not until 1495 that the history of the Baglioni becomes
+dramatic, possibly because till then they lacked the pen of
+Matarazzo.<a name="FNanchor_1_16" id="FNanchor_1_16" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_16" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> But from this
+year forward to their final extinction, every detail of their
+doings has a picturesque and awful interest. Domestic furies, like
+the revel descried by Cassandra above the palace of Mycen&aelig;,
+seem to take possession of the fated house; and the doom which has
+fallen on them is worked out with pitiless exactitude to the last
+generation. In 1495 the heads of the Casa Baglioni were two
+brothers, Guido and Ridolfo, who had a numerous progeny of heroic
+sons. From Guido sprang Astorre, Adriano, called for his <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg122" id="pg122">122</a></span> great
+strength Morgante,<a name="FNanchor_2_17" id="FNanchor_2_17" /><a
+href="#Footnote_2_17" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Gismondo,
+Marcantonio, and Gentile. Ridolfo owned Troilo, Gianpaolo, and
+Simonetto. The first glimpse we get of these young athletes in
+Matarazzo's chronicle is on the occasion of a sudden assault upon
+Perugia, made by the Oddi and the exiles of their faction in
+September 1495. The foes of the Baglioni entered the gates, and
+began breaking the iron chains, <i>serragli</i>, which barred the
+streets against advancing cavalry. None of the noble house were on
+the alert except young Simonetto, a lad of eighteen, fierce and
+cruel, who had not yet begun to shave his chin.<a name=
+"FNanchor_3_18" id="FNanchor_3_18" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_3_18" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> In spite of all
+dissuasion, he rushed forth alone, bareheaded, in his shirt, with a
+sword in his right hand and a buckler on his arm, and fought
+against a squadron. There at the barrier of the piazza he kept his
+foes at bay, smiting men-at-arms to the ground with the sweep of
+his tremendous sword, and receiving on his gentle body twenty-two
+cruel wounds. While thus at fearful odds, the noble Astorre mounted
+his charger and joined him. Upon his helmet flashed the falcon of
+the Baglioni with the dragon's tail that swept behind. Bidding
+Simonetto tend his wounds, he in his turn held the square.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_16" id="Footnote_1_16" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_16"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> His
+chronicle is a masterpiece of na&iuml;ve, unstudied narrative. Few
+documents are so important for the student of the sixteenth century
+in Italy. Whether it be really the work of Matarazzo or Maturanzio,
+the distinguished humanist, is more than doubtful. The writer seems
+to me as yet unspoiled by classic studies and the pedantries of
+imitation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_17" id="Footnote_2_17" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_17"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This
+name, it may be incidentally mentioned, proves the wide-spread
+popularity of Pulci's poem, the <i>Morgante Maggiore</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_18" id="Footnote_3_18" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_18"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> 'Era
+costui al presente di anni 18 o 19; ancora non se radeva barba; e
+mostrava tanta forza e tanto ardire, e era tanto adatto nel fatto
+d' arme, che era gran maraveglia; e iostrava cum tanta gintilezza e
+gagliardia, che homo del mondo non l' aria mai creso; et aria dato
+con la punta de la lancia in nel fondo d' uno bicchiere da la
+mattina a la sera,' &amp;c. (p. 50).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Listen to Matarazzo's description of the scene; it is as good as
+any piece of the 'Mort Arthur:'&mdash;'According to the report of
+one who told me what he had seen with his own eyes, never did anvil
+take so many blows as he upon his person and his steed; and they
+all kept striking at his lordship in <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg123" id="pg123">123</a></span> such crowds that the one
+prevented the other. And so many lances, partisans, and crossbow
+quarries, and other weapons, made upon his body a most mighty din,
+that above every other noise and shout was heard the thud of those
+great strokes. But he, like one who had the mastery of war, set his
+charger where the press was thickest, jostling now one, and now
+another; so that he ever kept at least ten men of his foes
+stretched on the ground beneath his horse's hoofs; which horse was
+a most fierce beast, and gave his enemies what trouble he best
+could. And now that gentle lord was all fordone with sweat and
+toil, he and his charger; and so weary were they that scarcely
+could they any longer breathe.'</p>
+
+<p>Soon after, the Baglioni mustered in force. One by one their
+heroes rushed from the palaces. The enemy were driven back with
+slaughter; and a war ensued, which made the fair land between
+Assisi and Perugia a wilderness for many months. It must not be
+forgotten that, at the time of these great feats of Simonetto and
+Astorre, young Raphael was painting in the studio of Perugino. What
+the whole city witnessed with astonishment and admiration, he, the
+keenly sensitive artist-boy, treasured in his memory. Therefore in
+the S. George of the Louvre, and in the mounted horseman trampling
+upon Heliodorus in the Stanze of the Vatican, victorious Astorre
+lives for ever, immortalised in all his splendour by the painter's
+art. The grinning griffin on the helmet, the resistless frown upon
+the forehead of the beardless knight, the terrible right arm, and
+the ferocious steed,&mdash;all are there as Raphael saw and wrote
+them on his brain. One characteristic of the Baglioni, as might be
+plentifully illustrated from their annalist, was their eminent
+beauty, which inspired beholders with an enthusiasm and a love they
+were far from deserving by their virtues. It is this, in
+combination with their personal heroism, which gives a peculiarly
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg124" id="pg124">124</a></span>
+dramatic interest to their doings, and makes the chronicle of
+Matarazzo more fascinating than a novel. He seems unable to write
+about them without using the language of an adoring lover.</p>
+
+<p>In the affair of 1495 the Baglioni were at amity among
+themselves. When they next appear upon the scene, they are engaged
+in deadly feud. Cousin has set his hand to the throat of cousin,
+and the two heroes of the piazza are destined to be slain by
+foulest treachery of their own kin. It must be premised that
+besides the sons of Guido and Ridolfo already named, the great
+house counted among its most distinguished members a young Grifone,
+or Grifonetto, the son of Grifone and Atalanta Baglioni. Both his
+father and grandfather had died violent deaths in the prime of
+their youth; Galeotto, the father of Atalanta, by poison, and
+Grifone by the knife at Ponte Ricciolo in 1477. Atalanta was left a
+young widow with one only son, this Grifonetto, whom Matarazzo
+calls 'un altro Ganimede,' and who combined the wealth of two chief
+branches of the Baglioni. In 1500, when the events about to be
+related took place, he was quite a youth. Brave, rich, handsome,
+and married to a young wife, Zenobia Sforza, he was the admiration
+of Perugia. He and his wife loved each other dearly; and how,
+indeed, could it be otherwise, since 'l' uno e l' altro sembravano
+doi angioli di Paradiso?' At the same time he had fallen into the
+hands of bad and desperate counsellors. A bastard of the house,
+Filippo da Braccio, his half-uncle, was always at his side,
+instructing him not only in the accomplishments of chivalry, but
+also in wild ways that brought his name into disrepute. Another of
+his familiars was Carlo Barciglia Baglioni, an unquiet spirit, who
+longed for more power than his poverty and comparative obscurity
+allowed. With them associated Jeronimo della Penna, a veritable
+ruffian, contaminated from his earliest <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg125" id="pg125">125</a></span> youth with every form of
+lust and violence, and capable of any crime.<a name="FNanchor_1_19"
+id="FNanchor_1_19" /><a href="#Footnote_1_19" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> These three companions, instigated partly by the
+Lord of Camerino and partly by their own cupidity, conceived a
+scheme for massacring the families of Guido and Ridolfo at one
+blow. As a consequence of this wholesale murder, Perugia would be
+at their discretion. Seeing of what use Grifonetto by his wealth
+and name might be to them, they did all they could to persuade him
+to join their conjuration. It would appear that the bait first
+offered him was the sovereignty of the city, but that he was at
+last gained over by being made to believe that his wife Zenobia had
+carried on an intrigue with Gianpaolo Baglioni. The dissolute
+morals of the family gave plausibility to an infernal trick which
+worked upon the jealousy of Grifonetto. Thirsting for revenge, he
+consented to the scheme. The conspirators were further fortified by
+the accession of Jeronimo della Staffa, and three members of the
+House of Corgna. It is noticeable that out of the whole number only
+two, Bernardo da Corgna and Filippo da Braccio, were above the age
+of thirty. Of the rest, few had reached twenty-five. At so early an
+age were the men of those times adepts in violence and treason. The
+execution of the plot was fixed for the wedding festivities of
+Astorre Baglioni with Lavinia, the daughter of Giovanni Colonna and
+Giustina Orsini. At that time the whole Baglioni family were to be
+assembled in Perugia, with the single exception of Marcantonio, who
+was taking baths at Naples for his health. It was known that the
+members of the noble house, nearly all of them condottieri by
+trade, and eminent for their great strength <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg126" id="pg126">126</a></span> and skill in
+arms, took few precautions for their safety. They occupied several
+houses close together between the Porta San Carlo and the Porta
+Eburnea, set no regular guard over their sleeping chambers, and
+trusted to their personal bravery, and to the fidelity of their
+attendants.<a name="FNanchor_2_20" id="FNanchor_2_20" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_20" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It was thought
+that they might be assassinated in their beds. The wedding
+festivities began upon the 28th of July, and great is the
+particularity with which Matarazzo describes the doings of each
+successive day&mdash;processions, jousts, triumphal arches,
+banquets, balls, and pageants. The night of the 14th of August was
+finally set apart for the consummation of <i>el gran
+tradimento</i>: it is thus that Matarazzo always alludes to the
+crime of Grifonetto with a solemnity of reiteration that is most
+impressive. A heavy stone let fall into the courtyard of Guido
+Baglioni's palace was to be the signal: each conspirator was then
+to run to the sleeping chamber of his appointed prey. Two of the
+principals and fifteen bravi were told off to each victim: rams and
+crowbars were prepared to force the doors, if needful. All happened
+as had been anticipated. The crash of the falling stone was heard.
+The conspirators rushed to the scene of operations. Astorre, who
+was sleeping in the house of his traitorous cousin Grifonetto, was
+slain in the arms of his young bride, crying, as he vainly
+struggled, 'Misero Astorre che more come poltrone!' Simonetto, who
+lay that night with a lad called Paolo he greatly loved, flew to
+arms, exclaiming to his brother, 'Non dubitare Gismondo, mio
+fratello!' He too was soon despatched, together with his bedfellow.
+Filippo da Braccio, after killing him, tore from a great wound in
+his side the still quivering heart, into which <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg127" id="pg127">127</a></span> he drove his
+teeth with savage fury. Old Guido died groaning, 'Ora &egrave;
+gionto il ponto mio;' and Gismondo's throat was cut while he lay
+holding back his face that he might be spared the sight of his own
+massacre. The corpses of Astorre and Simonetto were stripped and
+thrown out naked into the streets. Men gathered round and marvelled
+to see such heroic forms, with faces so proud and fierce even in
+death. In especial the foreign students likened them to ancient
+Romans.<a name="FNanchor_3_21" id="FNanchor_3_21" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_3_21" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> But on their
+fingers were rings, and these the ruffians of the place would fain
+have hacked off with their knives. From this indignity the noble
+limbs were spared; then the dead Baglioni were hurriedly consigned
+to an unhonoured tomb. Meanwhile the rest of the intended victims
+managed to escape. Gianpaolo, assailed by Grifonetto and
+Gianfrancesco della Corgna, took refuge with his squire and
+bedfellow, Maraglia, upon a staircase leading from his room. While
+the squire held the passage with his pike against the foe,
+Gianpaolo effected his flight over neighbouring house-roofs. He
+crept into the attic of some foreign students, who, trembling with
+terror, gave him food and shelter, clad him in a scholar's gown,
+and helped him to fly in this disguise from the gates at dawn. He
+then joined his brother Troilo at Marsciano, whence he returned
+without delay to punish the traitors. At the same time Grifonetto's
+mother, Atalanta, taking with her his wife Zenobia and the two
+young sons of Gianpaolo, Malatesta and Orazio, afterwards so
+celebrated in Italian history for their great feats of arms and
+their crimes, fled to her country-house at Landona. Grifonetto in
+vain <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg128" id=
+"pg128">128</a></span> sought to see her there. She drove him from
+her presence with curses for the treason and the fratricide that he
+had planned. It is very characteristic of these wild natures,
+framed of fierce instincts and discordant passions, that his
+mother's curse weighed like lead upon the unfortunate young man.
+Next day, when Gianpaolo returned to try the luck of arms,
+Grifonetto, deserted by the companions of his crime and paralysed
+by the sense of his guilt, went out alone to meet him on the public
+place. The semi-failure of their scheme had terrified the
+conspirators: the horrors of that night of blood unnerved them. All
+had fled except the next victim of the feud. Putting his sword to
+the youth's throat, Gianpaolo looked into his eyes and said, 'Art
+thou here, Grifonetto? Go with God's peace: I will not slay thee,
+nor plunge my hand in my own blood, as thou hast done in thine.'
+Then he turned and left the lad to be hacked in pieces by his
+guard. The untranslatable words which Matarazzo uses to describe
+his death are touching from the strong impression they convey of
+Grifonetto's goodliness: 'Qui ebbe sua signoria sopra sua nobile
+persona tante ferite che suoi membra leggiadre stese in terra.'<a
+name="FNanchor_4_22" id="FNanchor_4_22" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_4_22" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> None but Greeks
+felt the charm of personal beauty thus. But while Grifonetto was
+breathing out his life upon the pavement of the piazza, his mother
+Atalanta and his wife Zenobia came to greet him through the
+awe-struck city. As they approached, all men fell aside and slunk
+away before their grief. None would seem to have had a share in
+Grifonetto's murder. Then Atalanta knelt by her dying son, and
+ceased from wailing, and prayed and exhorted him to pardon those
+who had caused his death. It appears that Grifonetto was too weak
+to speak, but that he made a signal of assent, and received his
+mother's blessing at the last: <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg129" id="pg129">129</a></span> 'E allora porse el nobil
+giovenetto la dextra mano a la sua giovenile matre strengendo de
+sua matre la bianca mano; e poi incontinente spir&ograve; l' anima
+dal formoso corpo, e pass&ograve; cum infinite benedizioni de sua
+matre in cambio de la maledictione che prima li aveva date.'<a
+name="FNanchor_5_23" id="FNanchor_5_23" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_5_23" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Here again the
+style of Matarazzo, tender and full of tears, conveys the keenest
+sense of the pathos of beauty and of youth in death and sorrow. He
+has forgotten <i>el gran tradimento</i>. He only remembers how
+comely Grifonetto was, how noble, how frank and spirited, how
+strong in war, how sprightly in his pleasures and his loves. And he
+sees the still young mother, delicate and nobly born, leaning over
+the athletic body of her bleeding son. This scene, which is perhaps
+a genuine instance of what we may call the neo-Hellenism of the
+Renaissance, finds its parallel in the 'Phoeniss&aelig;' of
+Euripides. Jocasta and Antigone have gone forth to the battlefield
+and found the brothers Polynices and Eteocles drenched in
+blood:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i11">From his chest</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Heaving a heavy breath, King Eteocles heard</div>
+
+<div class="i2">His mother, and stretched forth a cold damp
+hand</div>
+
+<div class="i2">On hers, and nothing said, but with his eyes</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Spake to her by his tears, showing kind
+thoughts</div>
+
+<div class="i2">In symbols.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was Atalanta, we may remember, who commissioned Raphael to
+paint the so-called Borghese Entombment. Did she perhaps feel, as
+she withdrew from the piazza, soaking with young Grifonetto's
+blood,<a name="FNanchor_6_24" id="FNanchor_6_24" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_6_24" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> that she too had
+some portion in the sorrow of that mother who had wept for Christ?
+The <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg130" id="pg130">130</a></span>
+memory of the dreadful morning must have remained with her through
+life, and long communion with our Lady of Sorrows may have
+sanctified the grief that had so bitter and so shameful a root of
+sin.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_19" id="Footnote_1_19" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_19"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Matarazzo's description of the ruffians who surrounded Grifonetto
+(pp. 104, 105, 113) would suit Webster's Flamineo or Bosola. In one
+place he likens Filippo to Achitophel and Grifonetto to Absalom.
+Villano Villani, quoted by Fabretti (vol. iii. p. 125), relates the
+street adventures of this clique. It is a curious picture of the
+pranks of an Italian princeling in the fifteenth century.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_20" id="Footnote_2_20" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_20"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Jacobo
+Antiquari, the secretary of Lodovico Sforza, in a curious letter,
+which gives an account of the massacre, says that he had often
+reproved the Baglioni for 'sleeping in their beds without any guard
+or watch, so that they might easily be overcome by enemies.'</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_21" id="Footnote_3_21" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_21"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> 'Quelli
+che li vidino, e maxime li forastiere studiante assimigliavano el
+magnifico Messer Astorre cos&igrave; morto ad un antico Romano,
+perch&egrave; prima era unanissimo; tanto sua figura era degnia e
+magnia,' &amp;c. This is a touch exquisitely illustrative of the
+Renaissance enthusiasm for classic culture.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_4_22" id="Footnote_4_22" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_4_22"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Here
+his lordship received upon his noble person so many wounds that he
+stretched his graceful limbs upon the earth.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_5_23" id="Footnote_5_23" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_5_23"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> 'And
+then the noble stripling stretched his right hand to his youthful
+mother, pressing the white hand of his mother; and afterwards
+forthwith he breathed his soul forth from his beauteous body, and
+died with numberless blessings of his mother instead of the curses
+she had given him before.'</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_6_24" id="Footnote_6_24" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_6_24"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> See
+Matarazzo, <a href="#pg134">p. 134</a>, for this
+detail.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the death of Grifonetto, and the flight of the
+conspirators, Gianpaolo took possession of Perugia. All who were
+suspected of complicity in the treason were massacred upon the
+piazza and in the Cathedral. At the expense of more than a hundred
+murders, the chief of the Baglioni found himself master of the city
+on the 17th of July. First he caused the Cathedral to be washed
+with wine and reconsecrated. Then he decorated the Palazzo with the
+heads of the traitors and with their portraits in fresco, painted
+hanging head downwards, as was the fashion in Italy.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_25" id="FNanchor_1_25" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_25" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Next he
+established himself in what remained of the palaces of his kindred,
+hanging the saloons with black, and arraying his retainers in the
+deepest mourning. Sad indeed was now the aspect of Perugia.
+Helpless and comparatively uninterested, the citizens had been
+spectators of these bloody broils. They were now bound to share the
+desolation of their masters. Matarazzo's description of the
+mournful palace and the silent town, and of the return of
+Marcantonio from Naples, presents a picture striking for its
+vividness.<a name="FNanchor_2_26" id="FNanchor_2_26" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_26" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> In the true style
+of the Baglioni, Marcantonio sought to vent his sorrow not so much
+in tears as by new violence. He prepared and lighted torches,
+meaning to burn the whole quarter of Sant' Angelo; and from this
+design he was with difficulty dissuaded by his <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg131" id="pg131">131</a></span> brother. To
+such mad freaks of rage and passion were the inhabitants of a
+medi&aelig;val town in Italy exposed! They make us understand the
+<i>ordinanze di giustizia</i>, by which to be a noble was a crime
+in Florence.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_25" id="Footnote_1_25" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_25"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See
+Varchi (ed. Lemonnier, 1857), vol. ii. p. 265, vol. iii. pp. 224,
+652, and Corio (Venice, 1554), p. 326, for instances of <i>dipinti
+per traditori</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_26" id="Footnote_2_26" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_26"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> P. 142.
+'Pareva ogni cosa oscura e lacrimosa: tutte loro servitore
+piangevano; et le camere de lo resto de li magnifici Baglioni, e
+sale, e ognie cosa erano tutte intorno cum pagnie negre. E per la
+citt&agrave; non era pi&ugrave; alcuno che sonasse n&egrave;
+cantasse; e poco si rideva,' &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>From this time forward the whole history of the Baglioni family
+is one of crime and bloodshed. A curse had fallen on the house, and
+to the last of its members the penalty was paid. Gianpaolo himself
+acquired the highest reputation throughout Italy for his courage
+and sagacity both as a general and a governor.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_27" id="FNanchor_1_27" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_27" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> It was he who
+held Julius II. at his discretion in 1506, and was sneered at by
+Machiavelli for not consummating his enormities by killing the
+warlike Pope.<a name="FNanchor_2_28" id="FNanchor_2_28" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_28" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> He again, after
+joining the diet of La Magione against Cesare Borgia, escaped by
+his acumen the massacre of Sinigaglia, which overthrew the other
+conspirators. But his name was no less famous for unbridled lust
+and deeds of violence. He boasted that his son Constantino was a
+true Baglioni, since he was his sister's child. He once told
+Machiavelli that he had it in his mind to murder four citizens of
+Perugia, his enemies. He looked calmly on while his kinsmen Eusebio
+and Taddeo Baglioni, who had been accused of treason, were hewn to
+pieces by his guard. His wife, Ippolita de' Conti, was poignarded
+in her Roman farm; on hearing the news, he ordered a festival in
+which he was engaged to proceed with redoubled merriment.<a name=
+"FNanchor_3_29" id="FNanchor_3_29" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_3_29" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> At last the time
+came for him to die <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg132" id=
+"pg132">132</a></span> by fraud and violence. Leo X., anxious to
+remove so powerful a rival from Perugia, lured him in 1520 to Rome
+under the false protection of a papal safe-conduct. After a short
+imprisonment he had him beheaded in the Castle of S. Angelo. It was
+thought that Gentile, his first cousin, sometime Bishop of Orvieto,
+but afterwards the father of two sons in wedlock with Giulia
+Vitelli&mdash;such was the discipline of the Church at this
+epoch&mdash;had contributed to the capture of Gianpaolo, and had
+exulted in his execution.<a name="FNanchor_4_30" id=
+"FNanchor_4_30" /><a href="#Footnote_4_30" class=
+"fnanchor">[4]</a> If so, he paid dear for his treachery; for
+Orazio Baglioni, the second son of Gianpaolo and captain of the
+Church under Clement VII., had him murdered in 1527, together with
+his two nephews Fileno and Annibale.<a name="FNanchor_5_31" id=
+"FNanchor_5_31" /><a href="#Footnote_5_31" class=
+"fnanchor">[5]</a> This Orazio was one of the most bloodthirsty of
+the whole brood. Not satisfied with the assassination of Gentile,
+he stabbed Galeotto, the son of Grifonetto, with his own hand in
+the same year.<a name="FNanchor_6_32" id="FNanchor_6_32" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_6_32" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Afterwards he
+died in the kingdom of Naples while leading the Black Bands in the
+disastrous war which followed the sack of Rome. He left no son.
+Malatesta, his elder brother, became one of the most celebrated
+generals of the age, holding the batons of the Venetian and
+Florentine republics, and managing to maintain his ascendency in
+Perugia in spite of the persistent opposition of successive popes.
+But his name is best known in history for one of the greatest
+public crimes&mdash;a crime which must be ranked with that of
+Marshal Bazaine. Intrusted with the defence of Florence during the
+siege of 1530, he sold the city to his enemy, Pope Clement,
+receiving for the price of this infamy certain privileges and
+immunities which fortified his hold upon Perugia for a season. All
+Italy was ringing <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg133" id=
+"pg133">133</a></span> with the great deeds of the Florentines, who
+for the sake of their liberty transformed themselves from merchants
+into soldiers, and withstood the united powers of Pope and Emperor
+alone. Meanwhile Malatesta, whose trade was war, and who was being
+largely paid for his services by the beleaguered city, contrived by
+means of diplomatic procrastination, secret communication with the
+enemy, and all the arts that could intimidate an army of recruits,
+to push affairs to a point at which Florence was forced to
+capitulate without inflicting the last desperate glorious blow she
+longed to deal her enemies. The universal voice of Italy condemned
+him. When Matteo Dandolo, the Doge of Venice, heard what he had
+done, he cried before the Pregadi in conclave, 'He has sold that
+people and that city, and the blood of those poor citizens ounce by
+ounce, and has donned the cap of the biggest traitor in the
+world.'<a name="FNanchor_7_33" id="FNanchor_7_33" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_7_33" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> Consumed with
+shame, corroded by an infamous disease, and mistrustful of Clement,
+to whom he had sold his honour, Malatesta retired to Perugia, and
+died in 1531. He left one son, Ridolfo, who was unable to maintain
+himself in the lordship of his native city. After killing the Papal
+legate, Cinzio Filonardi, in 1534, he was dislodged four years
+afterwards, when Paul III. took final possession of the place as an
+appanage of the Church, razed the houses of the Baglioni to the
+ground, and built upon their site the Rocca Paolina. This fortress
+bore an inscription: 'Ad coercendam Perusinorum audaciam.' The city
+was given over to the rapacity of the abominable Pier Luigi
+Farnese, and so bad was this tyranny of priests and bastards, that,
+strange to say, the Perugians regretted the troublous times of the
+Baglioni. Malatesta in dying had exclaimed, 'Help me, if you can;
+since after me you will be set to draw the cart like oxen.'
+Frollieri, relating the speech, adds, <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg134" id="pg134">134</a></span> 'And this has been fulfilled
+to the last letter, for all have borne not only the yoke but the
+burden and the goad.' Ridolfo Baglioni and his cousin Braccio, the
+eldest son of Grifonetto, were both captains of Florence. The one
+died in battle in 1554, the other in 1559. Thus ended the
+illustrious family. They are now represented by descendants from
+females, and by contadini who preserve their name and boast a
+pedigree of which they have no records.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_27" id="Footnote_1_27" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_27"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See
+Frollieri, p. 437, for a very curious account of his character.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_28" id="Footnote_2_28" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_28"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
+Fabretti (vol. iii. pp. 193-202. and notes) discusses this
+circumstance in detail. Machiavelli's critique runs thus
+(<i>Discorsi</i>, lib. i. cap. 27): 'N&egrave; si poteva credere
+che si fosse astenuto o per bont&agrave;, o per coscienza che lo
+ritenesse; perch&egrave; in un petto d'un uomo facinoroso, che si
+teneva la sorella, ch' aveva morti i cugini e i nipot&iacute; per
+regnare, non poteva scendere alcuno pietoso rispetto: ma si
+conchiuse che gli uomini non sanno essere onorevolmente tristi, o
+perfettamente buoni,' &amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_29" id="Footnote_3_29" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_29"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> See
+Fabretti, vol. iii. p. 230. He is an authority for the details of
+Gianpaolo's life. The circumstance alluded to above justifies the
+terrible opening scene in Shelley's tragedy, <i>The Cenci</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_4_30" id="Footnote_4_30" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_4_30"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>
+Fabretti, vol. iii. p. 230, vol. iv. p. 10.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_5_31" id="Footnote_5_31" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_5_31"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> See
+Varchi, <i>Storie Florentine</i>, vol. i. p. 224.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_6_32" id="Footnote_6_32" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_6_32"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>
+Ibid.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_7_33" id="Footnote_7_33" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_7_33"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>
+Fabretti, vol. iv. p. 206.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The history of the Baglioni needs no commentary. They were not
+worse than other Italian nobles, who by their passions and their
+parties destroyed the peace of the city they infested. It is with
+an odd mixture of admiration and discontent that the chroniclers of
+Perugia allude to their ascendency. Matarazzo, who certainly cannot
+be accused of hostility to the great house, describes the miseries
+of his country under their bad government in piteous terms:<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_34" id="FNanchor_1_34" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_34" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> 'As I wish not to
+swerve from the pure truth, I say that from the day the Oddi were
+expelled, our city went from bad to worse. All the young men
+followed the trade of arms. Their lives were disorderly; and every
+day divers excesses were divulged, and the city had lost all reason
+and justice. Every man administered right unto himself,
+<i>propri&acirc; autoritate et manu regi&acirc;</i>. Meanwhile the
+Pope sent many legates, if so be the city could be brought to
+order: but all who came returned in dread of being hewn in pieces;
+for they threatened to throw some from the windows of the palace,
+so that no cardinal or other legate durst approach Perugia, unless
+he were a friend of the Baglioni. And the city was brought to such
+misery, that the most wrongous men were most prized; and those who
+had slain two or three men walked as they listed through the
+palace, and went with sword or poignard to speak to the
+podest&agrave; and other magistrates. Moreover, every man of <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg135" id="pg135">135</a></span> worth was
+down-trodden by bravi whom the nobles favoured; nor could a citizen
+call his property his own. The nobles robbed first one and then
+another of goods and land. All offices were sold or else
+suppressed; and taxes and extortions were so grievous that every
+one cried out. And if a man were in prison for his head, he had no
+reason to fear death, provided he had some interest with a noble.'
+Yet the same Matarazzo in another place finds it in his heart to
+say:<a name="FNanchor_2_35" id="FNanchor_2_35" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_35" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> 'Though the city
+suffered great pains for these nobles, yet the illustrious house of
+Baglioni brought her honour throughout Italy, by reason of the
+great dignity and splendour of that house, and of their pomp and
+name. Wherefore through them our city was often set above the rest,
+and notably above the commonwealths of Florence and Siena.' Pride
+feels no pain. The gratified vanity of the Perugian burgher, proud
+to see his town preferred before its neighbours, blinds the
+annalist to all the violence and villany of the magnificent Casa
+Baglioni. So strong was the <i>esprit de ville</i> which through
+successive centuries and amid all vicissitudes of politics divided
+the Italians against themselves, and proved an insuperable obstacle
+to unity.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_34" id="Footnote_1_34" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_34"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Pp.
+102, 103.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_35" id="Footnote_2_35" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_35"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> P.
+139.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After reading the chronicle of Matarazzo at Perugia through one
+winter day, I left the inn and walked at sunset to the
+blood-bedabbled cathedral square; for still those steps and
+pavements to my strained imagination seemed reeking with the
+outpoured blood of Baglioni; and on the ragged stonework of San
+Lorenzo red patches slanted from the dying day. Then by one of
+those strange freaks of the brain to which we are all subject, for
+a moment I lost sight of untidy Gothic fa&ccedil;ades and gaunt
+unfinished church walls; and as I walked, I was in the Close of
+Salisbury on a perfumed summer afternoon. The drowsy scent of
+lime-flowers and mignonette, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg136"
+id="pg136">136</a></span> the cawing of elm-cradled rooks, the hum
+of bees above, the velvet touch of smooth-shorn grass, and the
+breathless shadow of motionless green boughs made up one potent and
+absorbing mood of the charmed senses. Far overhead soared the calm
+grey spire into the infinite air, and the perfection of
+accomplished beauty slept beneath in those long lines of nave and
+choir and transepts. It was but a momentary dream, a thought that
+burned itself upon a fancy overtaxed by passionate images. Once
+more the puppet-scene of the brain was shifted; once more I saw the
+bleak bare flags of the Perugian piazza, the forlorn front of the
+Duomo, the bronze griffin, and Pisano's fountain, with here and
+there a flake of that tumultuous fire which the Italian sunset
+sheds. Who shall adequately compare the two pictures? Which shall
+we prefer&mdash;the Close of Salisbury, with its sleepy bells and
+cushioned ease of immemorial Deans&mdash;or this poor threadbare
+passion of Perugia, where every stone is stained with blood, and
+where genius in painters and scholars and prophets and ecstatic
+lovers has throbbed itself away to nothingness? It would be foolish
+to seek an answer to this question, idle to institute a comparison,
+for instance, between those tall young men with their broad winter
+cloaks who remind me of Grifonetto, and the vergers pottering in
+search of shillings along the gravel paths of Salisbury. It is more
+rational, perhaps, to reflect of what strange stuff our souls are
+made in this age of the world, when &aelig;sthetic pleasures, full,
+genuine, and satisfying, can be communicated alike by Perugia with
+its fascination of a dead irrevocable dramatic past, and Salisbury,
+which finds the artistic climax of its English comfort in the
+'Angel in the House.' From Matarazzo, smitten with a Greek love for
+the beautiful Grifonetto, to Mr. Patmore, is a wide step.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg137" id=
+"pg137">137</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="ORVIETO" id="ORVIETO" /><i>ORVIETO</i></h3>
+
+<p>On the road from Siena to Rome, halfway between Ficulle and
+Viterbo, is the town of Orvieto. Travellers often pass it in the
+night-time. Few stop there, for the place is old and dirty, and its
+inns are said to be indifferent. But none who see it even from a
+distance can fail to be struck with its imposing aspect, as it
+rises from the level plain upon that mass of rock among the
+Apennines.</p>
+
+<p>Orvieto is built upon the first of those huge volcanic blocks
+which are found like fossils embedded in the more recent geological
+formations of Central Italy, and which stretch in an irregular but
+unbroken line to the Campagna of Rome. Many of them, like that on
+which Civita Castellana is perched, are surrounded by rifts and
+chasms and ravines and fosses, strangely furrowed and twisted by
+the force of fiery convulsions. But their advanced guard, Orvieto,
+stands up definite and solid, an almost perfect cube, with walls
+precipitous to north and south and east, but slightly sloping to
+the westward. At its foot rolls the Paglia, one of those barren
+streams which swell in winter with the snows and rains of the
+Apennines, but which in summer-time shrink up, and leave bare beds
+of sand and pestilential canebrakes to stretch irregularly round
+their dwindled waters.</p>
+
+<p>The weary flatness and utter desolation of this valley present a
+sinister contrast to the broad line of the Apennines, swelling tier
+on tier, from their oak-girdled basements set with villages and
+towers, up to the snow and cloud that crown <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg138" id="pg138">138</a></span> their topmost
+crags. The time to see this landscape is at sunrise; and the
+traveller should take his stand upon the rising ground over which
+the Roman road is carried from the town&mdash;the point, in fact,
+which Turner has selected for his vague and misty sketch of Orvieto
+in our Gallery. Thence he will command the whole space of the
+plain, the Apennines, and the river creeping in a straight line at
+the base; while the sun, rising to his right, will slant along the
+mountain flanks, and gild the leaden stream, and flood the castled
+crags of Orvieto with a haze of light. From the centre of this
+glory stand out in bold relief old bastions built upon the solid
+tufa, vast gaping gateways black in shadow, towers of churches
+shooting up above a medley of deep-corniced tall Italian houses,
+and, amid them all, the marble front of the Cathedral, calm and
+solemn in its unfamiliar Gothic state. Down to the valley from
+these heights there is a sudden fall; and we wonder how the few
+spare olive-trees that grow there can support existence on the
+steep slope of the cliff.</p>
+
+<p>Our mind, in looking at this landscape, is carried by the force
+of old association to Jerusalem. We could fancy ourselves to be
+standing on Mount Olivet, with the valley of Jehoshaphat between us
+and the Sacred City. As we approach the town, the difficulty of
+scaling its crags seems insurmountable. The road, though carried
+skilfully along each easy slope or ledge of quarried rock, still
+winds so much that nearly an hour is spent in the ascent. Those who
+can walk should take a footpath, and enter Orvieto by the
+medi&aelig;val road, up which many a Pope, flying from rebellious
+subjects or foreign enemies, has hurried on his mule.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_36" id="FNanchor_1_36" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_36" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_36" id="Footnote_1_36" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_36"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Clement
+VII., for example, escaped from Rome disguised as a gardener after
+the sack in 1527, and, to quote the words of Varchi (St. Flor., v.
+17), 'Entr&ograve; agli otto di dicembre a due ore di notte in
+Orvieto, terra di sito fortissimo, per lo essere ella sopra uno
+scoglio pieno di tufi posta, d' ogni intorno scosceso e dirupato,'
+&amp;c.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg139" id="pg139">139</a></span>
+To unaccustomed eyes there is something forbidding and terrible
+about the dark and cindery appearance of volcanic tufa. Where it is
+broken, the hard and gritty edges leave little space for
+vegetation; while at intervals the surface spreads so smooth and
+straight that one might take it for solid masonry erected by the
+architect of Pandemonium. Rubbish and shattered bits of earthenware
+and ashes, thrown from the city walls, cling to every ledge and
+encumber the broken pavement of the footway. Then as we rise, the
+castle battlements above appear more menacing, toppling upon the
+rough edge of the crag, and guarding each turn of the road with
+jealous loopholes or beetle-browed machicolations, until at last
+the gateway and portcullis are in view.</p>
+
+<p>On first entering Orvieto, one's heart fails to find so terrible
+a desolation, so squalid a solitude, and so vast a difference
+between the present and the past, between the beauty of surrounding
+nature and the misery of this home of men. A long space of
+unoccupied ground intervenes between the walls and the hovels which
+skirt the modern town. This, in the times of its splendour, may
+have served for oliveyards, vineyards, and pasturage, in case of
+siege. There are still some faint traces of dead gardens left upon
+its arid wilderness, among the ruins of a castellated palace,
+decorated with the cross-keys and tiara of an unremembered pope.
+But now it lies a mere tract of scorched grass, insufferably hot
+and dry and sandy, intersected by dirty paths, and covered with the
+loathliest offal of a foul Italian town. Should you cross this
+ground at mid-day, under the blinding sun, when no living thing,
+except perhaps some poisonous reptile, is about, you would declare
+that Orvieto had been stricken for its sins by Heaven. Your mind
+would dwell mechanically on all that you have read of Papal crimes,
+of fratricidal wars, of Pagan abominations in the high places of
+the Church, of tempestuous passions and <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg140" id="pg140">140</a></span> refined iniquity&mdash;of
+everything, in fact, which renders Italy of the Middle Ages and the
+Renaissance dark and ominous amid the splendours of her art and
+civilisation. This is the natural result; this shrunken and squalid
+old age of poverty and self-abandonment is the end of that strong,
+prodigal, and vicious youth. Who shall restore vigour to these dead
+bones? we cry. If Italy is to live again, she must quit her ruined
+palace towers to build fresh dwellings elsewhere. Filth, lust,
+rapacity, treason, godlessness, and violence have made their
+habitation here; ghosts haunt these ruins; these streets still
+smell of blood and echo to the cries of injured innocence; life
+cannot be pure, or calm, or healthy, where this curse has
+settled.</p>
+
+<p>Occupied with such reflections, we reach the streets of Orvieto.
+They are not very different from those of most Italian villages,
+except that there is little gaiety about them. Like Assisi or
+Siena, Orvieto is too large for its population, and merriment flows
+better from close crowding than from spacious accommodation. Very
+dark, and big, and dirty, and deserted, is the judgment we
+pronounce upon the houses; very filthy and malodorous each passage;
+very long this central street; very few and sad and sullen the
+inhabitants; and where, we wonder, is the promised inn? In search
+of this one walks nearly through the city, until one enters the
+Piazza, where there is more liveliness. Here caf&eacute;s may be
+found; soldiers, strong and sturdy, from the north, lounge at the
+corners; the shops present more show; and a huge hotel, not bad for
+such a place, and appropriately dedicated to the Belle Arti,
+standing in a courtyard of its own, receives the traveller weary
+with his climb. As soon as he has taken rooms, his first desire is
+to go forth and visit the Cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>The great Duomo was erected at the end of the thirteenth century
+to commemorate the Miracle of Bolsena. The value <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg141" id="pg141">141</a></span> of this miracle
+consisted in its establishing unmistakably the truth of
+transubstantiation. The story runs that a young Bohemian priest who
+doubted the dogma was performing the office of the mass in a church
+at Bolsena, when, at the moment of consecration, blood issued from
+five gashes in the wafer, which resembled the five wounds of
+Christ. The fact was evident to all the worshippers, who saw blood
+falling on the linen of the altar; and the young priest no longer
+doubted, but confessed the miracle, and journeyed straightway with
+the evidence thereof to Pope Urban IV. The Pope, who was then at
+Orvieto, came out with all his retinue to meet the convert and do
+honour to the magic-working relics. The circumstances of this
+miracle are well known to students of art through Raphael's
+celebrated fresco in the Stanze of the Vatican. And it will be
+remembered by the readers of ecclesiastical history that Urban had
+in 1264 promulgated by a bull the strict observance of the Corpus
+Christi festival in connection with his strong desire to
+re-establish the doctrine of Christ's presence in the elements. Nor
+was it without reason that, while seeking miraculous support for
+this dogma, he should have treated the affair of Bolsena so
+seriously as to celebrate it by the erection of one of the most
+splendid cathedrals in Italy; for the peace of the Church had
+recently been troubled by the reforming ardour of the Fraticelli
+and by the promulgation of Abbot Joachim's Eternal Gospel. This new
+evangelist had preached the doctrine of progression in religious
+faith, proclaiming a kingdom of the Spirit which should transcend
+the kingdom of the Son, even as the Christian dispensation had
+superseded the Jewish supremacy of the Father. Nor did he fail at
+the same time to attack the political and moral abuses of the
+Papacy, attributing its degradation to the want of vitality which
+pervaded the old Christian system, and calling on the clergy to
+lead more <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg142" id=
+"pg142">142</a></span> simple and regenerate lives, consistently
+with the spiritual doctrine which he had received by inspiration.
+The theories of Joachim were immature and crude; but they were
+among the first signs of that liberal effort after
+self-emancipation which eventually stirred all Europe at the time
+of the Renaissance. It was, therefore, the obvious policy of the
+Popes to crush so dangerous an opposition while they could; and by
+establishing the dogma of transubstantiation, they were enabled to
+satisfy the craving mysticism of the people, while they placed upon
+a firmer basis the cardinal support of their own religious
+power.</p>
+
+<p>In pursuance of his plan, Urban sent for Lorenzo Maitani, the
+great Sienese architect, who gave designs for a Gothic church in
+the same style as the Cathedral of Siena, though projected on a
+smaller scale. These two churches, in spite of numerous
+shortcomings manifest to an eye trained in French or English
+architecture, are still the most perfect specimens of Pointed
+Gothic produced by the Italian genius. The Gottico Tedesco had
+never been received with favour in Italy. Remains of Roman
+architecture, then far more numerous and perfect than they are at
+present, controlled the minds of artists, and induced them to adopt
+the rounded rather than the pointed arch. Indeed, there would seem
+to be something peculiarly Northern in the spirit of Gothic
+architecture: its intricacies suit the gloom of Northern skies, its
+massive exterior is adapted to the severity of Northern weather,
+its vast windows catch the fleeting sunlight of the North, and the
+pinnacles and spires which constitute its beauty are better
+expressed in rugged stone than in the marbles of the South.
+Northern cathedrals do not depend for their effect upon the
+advantages of sunlight or picturesque situations. Many of them are
+built upon broad plains, over which for more than half the year
+hangs fog. But the cathedrals of Italy owe <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg143" id="pg143">143</a></span> their charm to colour and
+brilliancy: their gilded sculpture and mosaics, the variegated
+marbles and shallow portals of their fa&ccedil;ades, the light
+a&euml;rial elegance of their campanili, are all adapted to the
+luminous atmosphere of a smiling land, where changing effects of
+natural beauty distract the attention from solidity of design and
+permanence of grandeur in the edifice itself.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_37" id="FNanchor_1_37" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_37" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_37" id="Footnote_1_37" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_37"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> In
+considering why Gothic architecture took so little root in
+medi&aelig;val Italy, we must remember that the Italians had
+maintained an unbroken connection with Pagan Rome, and that many of
+their finest churches were basilicas appropriated to Christian
+rites. Add to this that the commerce of their cities, which first
+acquired wealth in the twelfth century, especially Pisa and Venice,
+kept them in communication with the Levant, where they admired the
+masterpieces of Byzantine architecture, and whence they imported
+Greek artists in mosaic and stonework. Against these external
+circumstances, taken in connection with the hereditary leanings of
+an essentially Latin race, and with the natural conditions of
+landscape and climate alluded to above, the influence of a few
+imported German architects could not have had sufficient power to
+effect a thorough metamorphosis of the national taste. For further
+treatment of this subject see my 'Fine Arts,' <i>Renaissance in
+Italy</i>, Part III. chap. ii.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Cathedral of Orvieto will illustrate these remarks. Its
+design is very simple. It consists of a parallelogram, from which
+three chapels of equal size project, one at the east end, and one
+at the north and south. The windows are small and narrow, the
+columns round, and the roof displays none of that intricate
+groining we find in English churches. The beauty of the interior
+depends on surface decoration, on marble statues, woodwork, and
+fresco-paintings. Outside, there is the same simplicity of design,
+the same elaborated local ornament. The sides of the Cathedral are
+austere, their narrow windows cutting horizontal lines of black and
+white marble. But the fa&ccedil;ade is a triumph of decorative art.
+It is strictly what has often been described as a 'frontispiece;'
+for it bears no sincere relation to the construction of the
+building. The three gables <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg144"
+id="pg144">144</a></span> rise high above the aisles. The pinnacles
+and parapets and turrets are stuck on to look agreeable. It is a
+screen such as might be completed or left unfinished at will by the
+architect. Finished as it is, the fa&ccedil;ade of Orvieto presents
+a wilderness of beauties. Its pure white marble has been mellowed
+by time to a rich golden hue, in which are set mosaics shining like
+gems or pictures of enamel. A statue stands on every pinnacle; each
+pillar has a different design; round some of them are woven wreaths
+of vine and ivy; acanthus leaves curl over the capitals, making
+nests for singing birds or Cupids; the doorways are a labyrinth of
+intricate designs, in which the utmost elegance of form is made
+more beautiful by incrustations of precious agates and Alexandrine
+glasswork. On every square inch of this wonderful fa&ccedil;ade
+have been lavished invention, skill, and precious material. But its
+chief interest centres in the sculptures executed by Giovanni and
+Andrea, sons and pupils of Nicola Pisano. The names of these three
+men mark an era in the history of art. They first rescued Italian
+sculpture from the grotesqueness of the Lombard and the wooden
+monotony of the Byzantine styles. Sculpture takes the lead of all
+the arts. And Nicola Pisano, before Cimabue, before Duccio, even
+before Dante, opened the gates of beauty, which for a thousand
+years had been shut up and overgrown with weeds. As Dante invoked
+the influence of Virgil when he began to write his medi&aelig;val
+poem, and made a heathen bard his hierophant in Christian
+mysteries, just so did Nicola Pisano draw inspiration from a
+Gr&aelig;co-Roman sarcophagus. He studied the basrelief of
+Ph&aelig;dra and Hippolytus, which may still be seen upon the tomb
+of Countess Beatrice in the Campo Santo, and so learned by heart
+the beauty of its lines and the dignity expressed in its figures,
+that in all his subsequent works we trace the elevated tranquillity
+of Greek sculpture. This imitation never degenerated into servile
+copying; nor, on the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg145" id=
+"pg145">145</a></span> other hand, did Nicola attain the perfect
+grace of an Athenian artist. He remained a truly medi&aelig;val
+carver, animated with a Christian instead of a Pagan spirit, but
+caring for the loveliness of form which art in the dark ages failed
+to realise.<a name="FNanchor_1_38" id="FNanchor_1_38" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_38" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_38" id="Footnote_1_38" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_38"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> I am
+not inclined to reject the old legend mentioned above about
+Pisano's study of the antique. For a full discussion of the
+question see my 'Fine Arts,' <i>Renaissance in Italy</i>, Part III.
+chap. iii.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Whether it was Nicola or his scholars who designed the
+basreliefs at Orvieto is of little consequence. Vasari ascribes
+them to the father; but we know that he completed his pulpit at
+Pisa in 1230, and his death is supposed to have taken place fifteen
+years before the foundation of the cathedral. At any rate, they are
+imbued with his genius, and bear the strongest affinity to his
+sculptures at Pisa, Siena, and Bologna. To estimate the influence
+they exercised over the arts of sculpture and painting in Italy
+would be a difficult task. Duccio and Giotto studied here; Ghiberti
+closely followed them. Signorelli and Raphael made drawings from
+their compositions. And the spirit which pervades these sculptures
+may be traced in all succeeding works of art. It is not classic; it
+is modern, though embodied in a form of beauty modelled on the
+Greek.</p>
+
+<p>The basreliefs are carved on four marble tablets placed beside
+the porches of the church, and corresponding in size and shape with
+the chief doorways. They represent the course of Biblical history,
+beginning with the creation of the world, and ending with the last
+judgment. If it were possible here to compare them in detail with
+the similar designs of Ghiberti, Michel Angelo, and Raphael, it
+might be shown that the Pisani established modes of treating sacred
+subjects from which those mighty masters never deviated, though
+each stamped upon them his peculiar genius, making them more
+perfect as time added to the power of art. It would also be <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg146" id="pg146">146</a></span> not
+without interest to show that, in their primitive conceptions of
+the earliest events in history, the works of the Pisan artists
+closely resemble some sculptures executed on the walls of Northern
+cathedrals, as well as early mosaics in the South of Italy. We
+might have noticed how all the grotesque elements which appear in
+Nicola Pisano, and which may still be traced in Ghiberti, are
+entirely lost in Michel Angelo, how the supernatural is humanised,
+how the symbolical receives an actual expression, and how
+intellectual types are substituted for mere local and individual
+representations. For instance, the Pisani represent the Creator as
+a young man standing on the earth, with a benign and dignified
+expression, and attended by two ministering angels. He is the
+Christ of the Creed, 'by whom all things were made.' In Ghiberti we
+find an older man, sometimes appearing in a whirlwind of clouds and
+attendant spirits, sometimes walking on the earth, but still far
+different in conception from the Creative Father of Michel Angelo.
+The latter is rather the Platonic Demiurgus than the Mosaic God. By
+every line and feature of his face and flowing hair, by each
+movement of his limbs, whether he ride on clouds between the waters
+and the firmament, or stand alone creating by a glance and by a
+motion of his hand Eve, the full-formed and conscious woman, he is
+proclaimed the Maker who from all eternity has held the thought of
+the material universe within his mind. Raphael does not depart from
+this conception. The profound abstraction of Michel Angelo ruled
+his intellect, and received from his genius a form of perhaps
+greater grace. A similar growth from the germinal designs of the
+Pisani may be traced in many groups.</p>
+
+<p>But we must not linger at the gate. Let us enter the cathedral
+and see some of the wonders it contains. Statues of gigantic size
+adorn the nave. Of these, the most beautiful <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg147" id="pg147">147</a></span> are the work of
+Ippolito Scalza, an artist whom Orvieto claims with pride as one of
+her own sons. The long line of saints and apostles whom they
+represent conduct us to the high altar, surrounded by its shadowy
+frescoes, and gleaming with the work of carvers in marble and
+bronze and precious metals. But our steps are drawn toward the
+chapel of the south transept, where now a golden light from the
+autumnal sunset falls across a crowd of worshippers. From far and
+near the poor people are gathered. Most of them are women. They
+kneel upon the pavement and the benches, sunburnt faces from the
+vineyards and the canebrakes of the valley. The old look
+prematurely aged and withered&mdash;their wrinkled cheeks bound up
+in scarlet and orange-coloured kerchiefs, their skinny fingers
+fumbling on the rosary, and their mute lips moving in prayer. The
+younger women have great listless eyes and large limbs used to
+labor. Some of them carry babies trussed up in tight
+swaddling-clothes. One kneels beside a dark-browed shepherd, on
+whose shoulder falls his shaggy hair; and little children play
+about, half hushed, half heedless of the place, among old men whose
+life has dwindled down into a ceaseless round of prayers. We wonder
+why this chapel, alone in the empty cathedral, is so crowded with
+worshippers. They surely are not turned towards that splendid
+Piet&agrave; of Scalza&mdash;a work in which the marble seems to
+live a cold, dead, shivering life. They do not heed Angelico's and
+Signorelli's frescoes on the roof and walls. The interchange of
+light and gloom upon the stalls and carved work of the canopies can
+scarcely rivet so intense a gaze. All eyes seem fixed upon a
+curtain of red silk above the altar. Votive pictures, and glass
+cases full of silver hearts, wax babies, hands and limbs of every
+kind, are hung round it. A bell rings. A jingling organ plays a
+little melody in triple time; and from the sacristy comes forth the
+priest. With <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg148" id=
+"pg148">148</a></span> much reverence, and with a show of
+preparation, he and the acolytes around him mount the altar steps
+and pull a string which draws the curtain. Behind the silken veil
+we behold Madonna and her child&mdash;a faint, old, ugly picture,
+blackened with the smoke and incense of five hundred years, a
+wonder-working image, cased in gold, and guarded from the common
+air by glass and draperies. Jewelled crowns are stuck upon the
+heads of the mother and the infant. In the efficacy of Madonna di
+San Brizio to ward off agues, to deliver from the pangs of
+childbirth or the fury of the storm, to keep the lover's troth and
+make the husband faithful to his home, these pious women of the
+marshes and the mountains put a simple trust.</p>
+
+<p>While the priest sings, and the people pray to the dance-music
+of the organ, let us take a quiet seat unseen, and picture to our
+minds how the chapel looked when Angelico and Signorelli stood
+before its plastered walls, and thought the thoughts with which
+they covered them. Four centuries have gone by since those walls
+were white and even to their brushes; and now you scarce can see
+the golden aureoles of saints, the vast wings of the angels, and
+the flowing robes of prophets through the gloom. Angelico came
+first, in monk's dress, kneeling before he climbed the scaffold to
+paint the angry judge, the Virgin crowned, the white-robed army of
+the Martyrs, and the glorious company of the Apostles. These he
+placed upon the roof, expectant of the Judgment. Then he passed
+away, and Luca Signorelli, the rich man who 'lived splendidly and
+loved to dress himself in noble clothes,' the liberal and courteous
+gentleman, took his place upon the scaffold. For all the
+worldliness of his attire and the worldliness of his living, his
+brain teemed with stern and terrible thoughts. He searched the
+secrets of sin and of the grave, of destruction and of
+resurrection, of heaven and hell. All these he has painted on the
+walls beneath the saints of Fra <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg149" id="pg149">149</a></span> Angelico. First come the troubles
+of the last days, the preaching of Antichrist, and the confusion of
+the wicked. In the next compartment we see the Resurrection from
+the tomb; and side by side with that is painted Hell. Paradise
+occupies another portion of the chapel. On each side of the window,
+beneath the Christ of Fra Angelico, are delineated scenes from the
+Judgment. A wilderness of arabesques, enclosing medallion portraits
+of poets and chiaroscuro episodes selected from Dante and Ovid,
+occupies the lower portions of the chapel walls beneath the great
+subjects enumerated above; and here Signorelli has given free vein
+to his fancy and his mastery over anatomical design, accumulating
+naked human figures in the most fantastic and audacious variety of
+pose.</p>
+
+<p>Look at the 'Fulminati'&mdash;so the group of wicked men are
+called whose death precedes the Judgment. Huge naked angels,
+sailing upon vanlike wings, breathe columns of red flame upon a
+crowd of wicked men and women. In vain these sinners avoid the
+descending fire. It pursues and fells them to the earth. As they
+fly, their eyes are turned towards the dreadful faces in the air.
+Some hurry through a portico, huddled together, falling men, and
+women clasping to their arms dead babies scorched with flame. One
+old man stares straightforward, doggedly awaiting death. One woman
+scowls defiance as she dies. A youth has twisted both hands in his
+hair, and presses them against his ears to drown the screams and
+groans and roaring thunder. They trample upon prostrate forms
+already stiff. Every shape and attitude of sudden terror and
+despairing guilt are here. Next comes the Resurrection. Two angels
+of the Judgment&mdash;gigantic figures, with the plumeless wings
+that Signorelli loves&mdash;are seen upon the clouds. They blow
+trumpets with all their might, so that each naked muscle seems
+strained to make the blast, which bellows through the air and
+shakes <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg150" id=
+"pg150">150</a></span> the sepulchres beneath the earth. Thence
+rise the dead. All are naked, and a few are seen like skeletons.
+With painful effort they struggle from the soil that clasps them
+round, as if obeying an irresistible command. Some have their heads
+alone above the ground. Others wrench their limbs from the clinging
+earth; and as each man rises, it closes under him. One would think
+that they were being born again from solid clay, and growing into
+form with labour. The fully risen spirits stand and walk about, all
+occupied with the expectation of the Judgment; but those that are
+yet in the act of rising, have no thought but for the strange and
+toilsome process of this second birth. Signorelli here, as
+elsewhere, proves himself one of the greatest painters by the
+simple means with which he produces the most marvellous effects.
+His composition sways our souls with all the passion of the
+terrible scenes that he depicts. Yet what does it contain? Two
+stern angels on the clouds, a blank grey plain, and a multitude of
+naked men and women. In the next compartment Hell is painted. This
+is a complicated picture, consisting of a mass of human beings
+entangled with torturing fiends. Above hover demons bearing damned
+spirits, and three angels see that justice takes its course.
+Signorelli here degenerates into no medi&aelig;val ugliness and
+mere barbarity of form. His fiends are not the bestial creatures of
+Pisano's basreliefs, but models of those monsters which Duppa has
+engraved from Michel Angelo's 'Last Judgment'&mdash;lean naked men,
+in whose hollow eyes glow the fires of hate and despair, whose
+nails have grown to claws, and from whose ears have started horns.
+They sail upon bats' wings; and only by their livid hue, which
+changes from yellow to the ghastliest green, and by the cruelty of
+their remorseless eyes, can you know them from the souls they
+torture. In Hell ugliness and power of mischief come with length of
+years. <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg151" id=
+"pg151">151</a></span> Continual growth in crime distorts the form
+which once was human; and the interchange of everlasting hatred
+degrades the tormentor and his victim to the same demoniac
+ferocity. To this design the science of foreshortening, and the
+profound knowledge of the human form in every posture, give its
+chief interest. Paradise is not less wonderful. Signorelli has
+contrived to throw variety and grace into the somewhat monotonous
+groups which this subject requires. Above are choirs of angels, not
+like Fra Angelico's, but tall male creatures clothed in voluminous
+drapery, with grave features and still, solemn eyes. Some are
+dancing, some are singing to the lute, and one, the most gracious
+of them all, bends down to aid a suppliant soul. The men beneath,
+who listen in a state of bliss, are all undraped. Signorelli, in
+this difficult composition, remains temperate, serene, and simple;
+a Miltonic harmony pervades the movement of his angelic choirs.
+Their beauty is the product of their strength and virtue. No floral
+ornaments or cherubs, or soft clouds, are found in his Paradise;
+yet it is fair and full of grace. Here Luca seems to have
+anticipated Raphael.</p>
+
+<p>It may be parenthetically observed, that Signorelli has
+introduced himself and Niccolo Angeli, treasurer of the cathedral
+building fund, in the corner of the fresco representing Antichrist,
+with the date 1503. They stand as spectators and solemn witnesses
+of the tragedy, set forth in all its acts by the great master.</p>
+
+<p>After viewing these frescoes, we muse and ask ourselves why
+Signorelli's fame is so inadequate to his deserts? Partly, no
+doubt, because he painted in obscure Italian towns, and left few
+easel-pictures.<a name="FNanchor_1_39" id="FNanchor_1_39" /><a
+href="#Footnote_1_39" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Besides, the
+artists of the sixteenth <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg152" id=
+"pg152">152</a></span> century eclipsed all their predecessors, and
+the name of Signorelli has been swallowed up in that of Michel
+Angelo. Vasari said that 'esso Michel Angelo imit&ograve; l'andar
+di Luca, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg153" id=
+"pg153">153</a></span> come pu&ograve; vedere ognuno.' Nor is it
+hard to see that what the one began at Orvieto the other completed
+in the Vatican. These great men had truly kindred spirits. Both
+struggled <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg154" id=
+"pg154">154</a></span> to express their intellectual conceptions in
+the simplest and most abstract forms. The works of both are
+distinguished by contempt for adventitious ornaments and for the
+grace of positive colour. Both chose to work in fresco, and
+selected subjects of the gravest and most elevated character. The
+study of anatomy, and the scientific drawing of the naked body,
+which Luca practised, were carried to perfection by Michel Angelo.
+Sublimity of thought and self-restraint pervade their compositions.
+He who would understand Buonarroti must first appreciate
+Signorelli. The latter, it is true, was confined to a narrower
+circle in his study of the beautiful and the sublime. He had not
+ascended to that pure idealism, superior to all the accidents of
+place and time, which is the chief distinction of Michel Angelo's
+work. At the same time, his manner had not suffered from too fervid
+an enthusiasm for the imperfectly comprehended antique. He painted
+the life he saw around him, and clothed his men and women in the
+dress of Italy.</p>
+
+<p>Such reflections, and many more, pass through our mind as we sit
+and ponder in the chapel, which the daylight has deserted. The
+country people are still on their knees, still careless of the
+frescoed forms around them, still praying to Madonna of the
+Miracles. The service is well-nigh done. The benediction has been
+given, the organist strikes up his air of Verdi, and the
+congregation shuffles off, leaving the dimly lighted chapel for the
+vast sonorous dusky nave. How strange it is to hear that faint
+strain of a feeble opera sounding where, a short while since, the
+trumpet-blast of Signorelli's angels seemed to thrill our ears!</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_39" id="Footnote_1_39" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_39"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+Uffizzi and Pitti Galleries at Florence contain one or two fine
+specimens of Luca Signorelli's Holy Families, which show his
+influence over the early manner of Michel Angelo. Into the
+background of one circular picture he has introduced a group of
+naked figures, which was imitated by Buonarroti in the Holy Family
+of the Tribune. The Accademia has also a picture of saints and
+angels illustrative of his large style and crowded composition. The
+Brera at Milan can boast of a very characteristic Flagellation,
+where the nude has been carefully studied, and the brutality of an
+insolent officer is forcibly represented. But perhaps the most
+interesting of his works out of Orvieto are those in his native
+place, Cortona. In the Church of the Ges&ugrave; in that town there
+is an altar-piece representing Madonna in glory with saints, which
+also contains on a smaller scale than the principal figures a
+little design of the Temptation in Eden. You recognise the master's
+individuality in the muscular and energetic Adam. The Duomo has a
+Communion of the Apostles which shows Signorelli's independence of
+tradition. It is the Cenacolo treated with freedom. Christ stands
+in the midst of the twelve, who are gathered around him, some
+kneeling and some upright, upon a marble pavement. The whole scene
+is conceived in a truly grand style&mdash;noble attitudes, broad
+draperies, sombre and rich colouring, masculine massing of the
+figures in effective groups. The Christ is especially noble.
+Swaying a little to the right, he gives the bread to a kneeling
+apostle. The composition is marked by a dignity and self-restraint
+which Raphael might have envied. San Niccolo, again, has a fine
+picture by this master. It is a Deposition with saints and
+angels&mdash;those large-limbed and wide-winged messengers of God
+whom none but Signorelli realised. The composition of this picture
+is hazardous, and at first sight it is even displeasing. The
+figures seem roughly scattered in a vacant space. The dead Christ
+has but little dignity, and the passion of S. Jerome in the
+foreground is stiff in spite of its exaggeration. But long study
+only serves to render this strange picture more and more
+attractive. Especially noticeable is the youthful angel clad in
+dark green who sustains Christ. He is a young man in the bloom of
+strength and beauty, whose long golden hair falls on each side of a
+sublimely lovely face. Nothing in painting surpasses the modelling
+of the vigorous but delicate left arm stretched forward to support
+the heavy corpse. This figure is conceived and executed in a style
+worthy of the Orvietan frescoes. Signorelli, for whose imagination
+angels had a special charm, has shown here that his too frequent
+contempt for grace was not the result of insensibility to beauty.
+Strength is the parent of sweetness in this wonderful winged youth.
+But not a single sacrifice is made in the whole picture to mere
+elegance.&mdash;Cortona is a place which, independently of
+Signorelli, well deserves a visit. Like all Etruscan towns, it is
+perched on the top of a high hill, whence it commands a wonderful
+stretch of landscape&mdash;Monte Amiata and Montepulciano to the
+south, Chiusi with its lake, the lake of Thrasymene, and the whole
+broad Tuscan plain. The city itself is built on a projecting
+buttress of the mountain, to which it clings so closely that, in
+climbing to the terrace of S. Margarita, you lose sight of all but
+a few towers and house-roofs. One can almost fancy that Signorelli
+gained his broad and austere style from the habitual contemplation
+of a view so severe in outline, and so vacant in its width. This
+landscape has none of the variety which distinguishes the prospect
+from Perugia, none of the suavity of Siena. It is truly sympathetic
+in its bare simplicity to the style of the great painter of
+Cortona. Try to see it on a winter morning, when the mists are
+lying white and low and thin upon the plain, when distant hills
+rise islanded into the air, and the outlines of lakes are just
+discernible through fleecy haze.&mdash;Next to Cortona in
+importance is the Convent of Monte Oliveto in the neighbourhood of
+Siena, where Signorelli painted eight frescoes from the story of S.
+Benedict, distinguished by his customary vigour of conception,
+masculine force of design, and martial splendour in athletic
+disdainful young men. One scene in this series, representing the
+interior of a country inn, is specially interesting for a realism
+not usual in the work of Signorelli. The frescoes painted for
+Petruccio at Siena, one of which is now in the National Gallery,
+the fresco in the Sistine Chapel, which has suffered sadly from
+retouching, and the magnificent classical picture called the
+'School of Pan,' executed for Lorenzo de' Medici, and now at
+Berlin, must not be forgotten, nor yet the church-pictures
+scattered over Loreto, Arcevia, Citt&agrave; di Castello, Borgo San
+Sepolcro, Volterra, and other cities of the Tuscan-Umbrian
+district. Arezzo, it may be added in conclusion, has two
+altar-pieces of Signorelli's in its Pinacoteca, neither of which
+adds much to our conception of this painter's style. Noticeable as
+they may be among the works of that period, they prove that his
+genius was hampered by the narrow and traditional treatment imposed
+on him in pictures of this kind. Students may be referred to Robert
+Vischer's <i>Luca Signorelli</i> (Leipzig, 1879) for a complete
+list of the master's works and an exhaustive biography. I have
+tried to estimate his place in the history of Italian art in my
+volume on the 'Fine Arts,' <i>Renaissance in Italy</i>, Part III. I
+may also mention two able articles by Professor Colvin published a
+few years since in the <i>Cornhill Magazine</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg155" id=
+"pg155">155</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="LUCRETIUS" id="LUCRETIUS" /><i>LUCRETIUS</i></h3>
+
+<p>In seeking to distinguish the Roman from the Greek genius we can
+find no surer guide than Virgil's famous lines in the Sixth
+&AElig;neid. Virgil lived to combine the traditions of both races
+in a work of profoundly meditated art, and to their points of
+divergence he was sensitive as none but a poet bent upon resolving
+them could be. The real greatness of the Romans consisted in their
+capacity for government, law, practical administration. What they
+willed, they carried into effect with an iron indifference to
+everything but the object in view. What they acquired, they held
+with the firm grasp of force, and by the might of organised
+authority. Their architecture, in so far as it was original,
+subserved purposes of public utility. Philosophy with them ceased
+to be speculative, and applied itself to the ethics of conduct.
+Their religious conceptions&mdash;in so far as these were not
+adopted together with general culture from the Greeks, or together
+with sensual mysticism from the East&mdash;were practical
+abstractions. The Latin ideal was to give form to the state by
+legislation, and to mould the citizen by moral discipline. The
+Greek ideal was contained in the poetry of Homer, the sculpture of
+Pheidias, the heroism of Harmodius, the philosophy of Socrates.
+Hellas was held together by no system, but by the Delphic oracle
+and the Olympian games. The Greeks depended upon culture, as the
+Romans upon law. The national character determined by culture, and
+that determined by discipline, eventually broke down: but the ruin
+in either case <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg156" id=
+"pg156">156</a></span> was different. The Greek became servile,
+indolent, and slippery; the Roman became arrogant, bloodthirsty,
+tyrannous, and brutal. The Greeks in their best days attained to
+&sigma;&omega;&phi;&rho;&omicron;&sigma;&#973;&nu;&eta;, their
+regulative virtue, by a kind of instinct; and even in their worst
+debasement they never exhibited the extravagance of lust and
+cruelty and pompous prodigality displayed by Rome. The Romans,
+deficient in the &aelig;sthetic instinct, whether applied to morals
+or to art, were temperate upon compulsion; and when the strain of
+law relaxed, they gave themselves unchecked to profligacy. The bad
+taste of the Romans made them aspire to the huge and monstrous.
+Nero's whim to cut through the isthmus, Caligula's villa built upon
+the sea at Bai&aelig;, the acres covered by imperial palaces in
+Rome, are as Latin as the small scale of the Parthenon is Greek.
+Athens annihilates our notions of mere magnitude by the
+predominance of harmony and beauty, to which size is irrelevant.
+Rome dilates them to the full: it is the colossal greatness, the
+mechanical pride, of her monuments that win our admiration. By
+comparing the Dionysian theatre at Athens, during a representation
+of the 'Antigone,' with the Flavian amphitheatre at Rome, while the
+gladiators sang their <i>Ave C&aelig;sar!</i> we gain at once a
+measure for the differences between Greek and Latin taste. In
+spiritual matters, again, Rome, as distinguished from Hellas, was
+omnivorous. The cosmopolitan receptivity of Roman sympathies,
+absorbing Egypt and the Orient wholesale, is as characteristic as
+the exclusiveness of the Greeks, their sensitive anxiety about the
+&#7974;&theta;&omicron;&sigmaf;. We feel that it was in a Roman
+rather than a Greek atmosphere, where no middle term of art existed
+like a neutral ground between the moral law and sin, where no
+delicate intellectual sensibilities interfered with the
+assimilation of new creeds, that Christianity was destined to
+strike root and flourish.</p>
+
+<p>These remarks, familiar to students, form a proper prelude to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg157" id="pg157">157</a></span> the
+criticism of Lucretius: for in Lucretius the Roman character found
+its most perfect literary incarnation. He is at all points a true
+Roman, gifted with the strength, the conquering temper, the
+uncompromising haughtiness, and the large scale of his race.
+Holding, as it were, the thought of Greece in fee, he administers
+the Epicurean philosophy as though it were a province, marshalling
+his arguments like legionaries, and spanning the chasms of
+speculative insecurity with the masonry of hypotheses. As the
+arches of the Pont du Gard, suspended in their power amid that
+solitude, produce an overmastering feeling of awe; so the huge
+fabric of the Lucretian system, hung across the void of Nihilism,
+inspires a sense of terror, not so much on its own account as for
+the Roman sternness of the mind that made it. 'Le retentissement de
+mes pas dans ces immenses vo&ucirc;tes me faisait croire entendre
+la forte voix de ceux qui les avait b&acirc;ties. Je me perdais
+comme un insecte dans cette immensit&eacute;.' This is what
+Rousseau wrote about the aqueduct of Nismes. This is what we feel
+in pacing the corridors of the Lucretian poem. Sometimes it seems
+like walking through resounding caves of night and death, where
+unseen cataracts keep plunging down uncertain depths, and winds
+'thwarted and forlorn' swell from an unknown distance, and rush by,
+and wail themselves to silence in the unexplored beyond. At another
+time the impression left upon the memory is different. We have been
+following a Roman road from the gate of the Eternal City, through
+field and vineyard, by lake and river-bed, across the broad
+intolerable plain and the barren tops of Alps, down into forests
+where wild beasts and barbarian tribes wander, along the marge of
+Rhine or Elbe, and over frozen fens, in one perpetual straight
+line, until the sea is reached and the road ends because it can go
+no further. All the while, the iron wheel-rims of our chariot have
+jarred upon imperishable paved work; there has been no stop nor
+stay; <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg158" id=
+"pg158">158</a></span> the visions of things beautiful and strange
+and tedious have flown past; at the climax we look forth across a
+waste of waves and tumbling wilderness of surf and foam, where the
+storm sweeps and hurrying mists drive eastward close above our
+heads. The want of any respite, breathing-space, or intermission in
+the poem, helps to force this image of a Roman journey on our mind.
+From the first line to the last there is no turning-point, no pause
+of thought, scarcely a comma, and the whole breaks off:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">rixantes potius quam corpora desererentur:</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>as though a scythe-sweep from the arm of Death had cut the
+thread of singing short.</p>
+
+<p>Is, then, this poem truly song? Indeed it is. The brazen voice
+of Rome becomes tunable; a majestic rhythm sustains the progress of
+the singer, who, like Milton's Satan,</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">O'er bog or steep, through strait, rough, dense, or
+rare,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">With head, hands, wings or feet, pursues his
+way,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">And swims, or sinks, or wades, or creeps, or
+flies.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is only because, being so much a Roman, he insists on moving
+ever onward with unwavering march, that Lucretius is often
+wearisome and rough. He is too disdainful to care to mould the
+whole stuff of his poem to one quality. He is too truth-loving to
+condescend to rhetoric. The scori&aelig;, the grit, the dross, the
+quartz, the gold, the jewels of his thought are hurried onward in
+one mighty lava-flood, that has the force to bear them all with
+equal ease&mdash;not altogether unlike that hurling torrent of the
+world painted by Tintoretto in his picture of the Last Day, which
+carries on its breast cities and forests and men with all their
+works, to plunge them in a bottomless abyss.</p>
+
+<p>Poems of the perfect Hellenic type may be compared to bronze
+statues, in the material of which many divers metals <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg159" id="pg159">159</a></span> have been
+fused. Silver and tin and copper and lead and gold are there: each
+substance adds a quality to the mass; yet the whole is bronze. The
+furnace of the poet's will has so melted and mingled all these
+ores, that they have run together and filled the mould of his
+imagination. It is thus that Virgil chose to work. He made it his
+glory to realise artistic harmony, and to preserve a Greek balance
+in his style. Not so Lucretius. In him the Roman spirit,
+disdainful, uncompromising, and forceful, had full sway. We can
+fancy him accosting the Greek masters of the lyre upon Parnassus,
+deferring to none, conceding nought, and meeting their arguments
+with proud indifference:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i1">tu regere imperio populos Romane memento.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Roman poet, swaying the people of his thoughts, will stoop
+to no persuasion, adopt no middle course. It is not his business to
+please, but to command; he will not wait upon the
+&kappa;&alpha;&iota;&rho;&#972;&sigmaf;, or court opportunity;
+Greeks may surprise the Muses in relenting moods, and seek out
+'mollia tempora fandi;' all times and seasons must serve him; the
+terrible, the discordant, the sublime, and the magnificent shall
+drag his thundering car-wheels, as he lists, along the road of
+thought.</p>
+
+<p>At the very outset of the poem we feel ourselves within the
+grasp of the Roman imagination. It is no Aphrodite, risen from the
+waves and white as the sea-foam, that he invokes:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">&AElig;neadum genetrix, hominum divomque voluptas,
+alma Venus.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This Venus is the mother of the brood of Rome, and at the same
+time an abstraction as wide as the universe. See her in the arms of
+Mavors:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i5"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg160" id=
+"pg160">160</a></span> in gremium qui s&aelig;pe tuum se</div>
+
+<div class="i2">reicit &aelig;terno devictus volnere amoris,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">atque ita suspiciens tereti cervice reposta</div>
+
+<div class="i2">pascit amore avidos inhians in te, dea,
+visus,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">eque tuo pendet resupini spiritus ore.</div>
+
+<div class="i2">hunc tu, diva, tuo recubantem corpore sancto</div>
+
+<div class="i2">circumfusa super, suavis ex ore loquelas</div>
+
+<div class="i2">funde petens placidam Romanis, incluta,
+pacem.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the whole Lucretian treatment of love there is nothing really
+Greek. We do not hear of Eros, either as the mystic mania of Plato,
+or as the winged boy of Meleager. Love in Lucretius is something
+deeper, larger, and more elemental than the Greeks conceived; a
+fierce and overmastering force, a natural impulse which men share
+in common with the world of things.<a name="FNanchor_1_40" id=
+"FNanchor_1_40" /><a href="#Footnote_1_40" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> Both the pleasures and the pains of love are
+conceived on a gigantic scale, and described with an irony that has
+the growl of a roused lion mingled with its laughter:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">ulcus enim vivescit et inveterascit alendo</div>
+
+<div class="i2">inque dies gliscit furor atque aerumna
+gravescit.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The acts of love and the insanities of passion are viewed from
+no standpoint of sentiment or soft emotion, but always in relation
+to philosophical ideas, or as the manifestation of something
+terrible in human life. Yet they lose nothing thereby in the
+voluptuous impression left upon the fancy:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">sic in amore Venus simulacris ludit amantis,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">nec satiare queunt spectando corpora coram</div>
+
+<div class="i2">nec manibus quicquam teneris abradere membris</div>
+
+<div class="i2">possunt errantes incerti corpore toto.</div>
+
+<div class="i2"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg161" id=
+"pg161">161</a></span> denique cum membris conlatis flore
+fruuntur</div>
+
+<div class="i2">&aelig;tatis, iam cum pr&aelig;sagit gaudia
+corpus</div>
+
+<div class="i2">atque in eost Venus ut muliebria conserat
+arva,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">adfigunt avide corpus iunguntque salivas</div>
+
+<div class="i2">oris et inspirant pressantes dentibus ora,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">nequiquam, quoniam nil inde abradere possunt</div>
+
+<div class="i2">nec penetrare et abire in corpus corpore
+toto.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The master-word in this passage is <i>nequiquam</i>. 'To desire
+the impossible,' says the Greek proverb, 'is a disease of the
+soul.' Lucretius, who treats of physical desire as a torment,
+asserts the impossibility of its perfect satisfaction. There is
+something almost tragic in these sighs and pantings and
+pleasure-throes, and incomplete fruitions of souls pent up within
+their frames of flesh. We seem to see a race of men and women such
+as have never lived, except perhaps in Rome or in the thought of
+Michel Angelo,<a name="FNanchor_2_41" id="FNanchor_2_41" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_41" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> meeting in
+leonine embracements that yield pain, whereof the climax is, at
+best, relief from rage and respite for a moment from consuming
+fire. There is a life d&aelig;monic rather than human in those
+mighty limbs; and the passion that bends them on the marriage bed
+has in it the stress of storms, the rampings and the roarings of
+leopards at play. Or, take again this single line:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">et Venus in silvis iungebat corpora amantum.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>What a picture of primeval breadth and vastness! The <i>vice
+&eacute;grillard</i> of Voltaire, the coarse animalism of Rabelais,
+even the large comic sexuality of Aristophanes, are in another
+region: for the forest is the world, and the bodies of the lovers
+are things natural and unashamed, and Venus is the tyrannous
+instinct that controls the blood in spring. Only a Roman poet could
+have conceived of passion so mightily and <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg162" id="pg162">162</a></span> so impersonally, expanding
+its sensuality to suit the scale of Titanic existences, and purging
+from it both sentiment and spirituality as well as all that makes
+it mean.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_40" id="Footnote_1_40" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_40"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> A
+fragment preserved from the <i>Danaides</i> of &AElig;schylus has
+the thought of Aphrodite as the mistress of love in earth and sky
+and sea and cloud; and this idea finds a philosophical expression
+in Empedocles. But the tone of these Greek poets is as different
+from that of Lucretius as a Greek Hera is from a Roman Juno.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_41" id="Footnote_2_41" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_41"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> See,
+for instance, his meeting of Ixion with the phantom of Juno, or his
+design for Leda and the Swan.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In like manner, the Lucretian conception of Ennui is wholly
+Roman:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">Si possent homines, proinde ac sentire
+videntur</div>
+
+<div class="i1">pondus inesse animo quod se gravitate
+fatiget,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">e quibus id fiat causis quoque noscere et
+unde</div>
+
+<div class="i1">tanta mali tamquam moles in pectore constet,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">haut ita vitam agerent, ut nunc plerumque
+videmus</div>
+
+<div class="i1">quid sibi quisque velit nescire et qu&aelig;rere
+semper</div>
+
+<div class="i1">commutare locum quasi onus deponere possit.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">exit s&aelig;pe foras magnis ex &aelig;dibus
+ille,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">esse domi quem pert&aelig;sumst, subitoque
+revertit,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">quippe foris nilo melius qui sentiat esse.</div>
+
+<div class="i1">currit agens mannos ad villam
+pr&aelig;cipitanter,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">auxilium tectis quasi ferre ardentibus
+instans;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">oscitat extemplo, tetigit cum limina
+vill&aelig;,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">aut abit in somnum gravis atque oblivia
+qu&aelig;rit,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">aut etiam properans urbem petit atque
+revisit,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">hoc se quisque modo fugit (at quem scilicet, ut
+fit,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">effugere haut potis est, ingratis h&aelig;ret) et
+odit</div>
+
+<div class="i1">propterea, morbi quia causam non tenet
+&aelig;ger;</div>
+
+<div class="i1">quam bene si videat, iam rebus quisque
+relictis</div>
+
+<div class="i1">naturam primum studeat cognoscere rerum,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">temporis &aelig;terni quoniam, non unius
+hor&aelig;,</div>
+
+<div class="i1">ambigitur status, in quo sit mortalibus omnis</div>
+
+<div class="i1">&aelig;tas, post mortem qu&aelig; restat cumque
+manenda.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Virgil would not have written these lines. A Greek poet could
+not have conceived them: unless we imagine to ourselves what
+&AElig;schylus or Pindar, oppressed by long illness, and forgetful
+of the gods, might possibly have felt. In its sense of spiritual
+vacancy, when the world and all its uses have become flat, stale,
+unprofitable, and the sentient soul oscillates like a pendulum
+between weariful extremes, seeking repose in restless movement, and
+hurling the ruins of a life into the gulf of its exhausted
+cravings, we perceive already the symptoms of that unnamed <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg163" id="pg163">163</a></span> malady
+which was the plague of imperial Rome. The tyrants and the suicides
+of the Empire expand before our eyes a pageant of their lassitude,
+relieved in vain by festivals of blood and orgies of unutterable
+lust. It is not that <i>ennui</i> was a specially Roman disease.
+Under certain conditions it is sure to afflict all overtaxed
+civilisation; and for the modern world no one has expressed its
+nature better than the slight and feminine De Musset.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_42" id="FNanchor_1_42" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_42" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Indeed, the Latin
+language has no one phrase denoting Ennui;&mdash;<i>livor</i> and
+<i>fastidium</i>, and even <i>t&aelig;dium vit&aelig;</i>, meaning
+something more specific and less all-pervasive as a moral agency.
+This in itself is significant, since it shows the unconsciousness
+of the race at large, and renders the intuition of Lucretius all
+the more remarkable. But in Rome there were the conditions
+favourable to its development&mdash;imperfect culture, vehement
+passions unabsorbed by commerce or by political life, the
+habituation to extravagant excitement in war and in the circus, and
+the fermentation of an age foredestined to give birth to new
+religious creeds. When the infinite but ill-assured power of the
+Empire was conferred on semi-madmen, Ennui in Rome assumed colossal
+proportions. Its victims sought for palliatives in cruelty and
+crime elsewhere unknown, except perhaps in Oriental courts.
+Lucretius, in the last days of the Republic, had discovered its
+deep significance for human nature. To all the pictures of Tacitus
+it forms a solemn tragic background, enhancing, as it were, by
+spiritual gloom the carnival of passions which gleam so brilliantly
+upon his canvas. In the person of Caligula, Ennui sat supreme upon
+the throne of the terraqueous globe. The insane desires and the
+fantastic deeds of the autocrat who wished one head for humanity
+that he might cut it off, sufficiently reveal the extent to which
+his spirit had been gangrened by this ulcer. There <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg164" id="pg164">164</a></span> is a simple
+paragraph in Suetonius which lifts the veil from his imperial
+unrest more ruthlessly than any legend:&mdash;'Incitabatur
+insomniis maxime; neque enim plus tribus horis nocturnis
+quiescebat, ac ne his quidem placid&acirc; quiete, at pavid&acirc;,
+miris rerum imaginibus ... ideoque magn&acirc; parte noctis,
+vigili&aelig; cubandique t&aelig;dio, nunc toro residens, nunc per
+longissimas porticus vagus, invocare identidem atque expectare
+lucem consueverat.' This is the very picture of Ennui that has
+become mortal disease. Nor was Nero different. 'N&eacute;ron,' says
+Victor Hugo, 'cherche tout simplement une distraction. Po&euml;te,
+com&eacute;dien, chanteur, cocher, &eacute;puisant la
+f&eacute;rocit&eacute; pour trouver la volupt&eacute;, essayant le
+changement de sexe, &eacute;poux de l'eunuque Sporus et
+&eacute;pouse de l'esclave Pythagore, et se promenant dans les rues
+de Rome entre sa femme et son mari; ayant deux plaisirs: voir le
+peuple se jeter sur les pi&egrave;ces d'or, les diamants et les
+perles, et voir les lions se jeter sur le peuple; incendiaire par
+curiosit&eacute; et parricide par d&eacute;soeuvrement.' Nor need
+we stop at Nero. Over Vitellius at his banquets, over Hadrian in
+his Tiburtine villa calling in vain on Death, over Commodus in the
+arena, and Heliogabalus among the rose-leaves, the same livid
+shadow of imperial Ennui hangs. We can even see it looming behind
+the noble form of Marcus Aurelius, who, amid the ruins of empire
+and the revolutions of belief, penned in his tent among the Quadi
+those maxims of endurance which were powerless to regenerate the
+world.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_42" id="Footnote_1_42" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_42"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See the
+prelude to <i>Les Confessions d'un Enfant du Si&egrave;cle</i> and
+<i>Les Nuits</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Roman again, in the true sense of the word, is the Lucretian
+philosophy of Conscience. Christianity has claimed the celebrated
+imprecation of Persius upon tyrants for her own, as though to her
+alone belonged the secret of the soul-tormenting sense of guilt.
+Yet it is certain that we owe to the Romans that conception of sin
+bearing its own fruit of torment which the Latin
+Fathers&mdash;Augustine and Tertullian&mdash; <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg165" id="pg165">165</a></span> imposed with
+such terrific force upon the medi&aelig;val consciousness. There is
+no need to conclude that Persius was a Christian because he
+wrote&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Magne pater divum, s&aelig;vos punire tyrannos,
+etc.,</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>when we know that he had before his eyes that passage in the
+third book of the 'De Rerum Natur&acirc;,' (978-1023) which reduces
+the myths of Tityos and Sisyphus and Cerberus and the Furies to
+facts of the human soul:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">sed metus in vita poenarum pro male factis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">est insignibus insignis, scelerisque luella,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">carcer et horribilis de saxo iactu' deorsum,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">verbera carnifices robur pix lammina
+t&aelig;d&aelig;;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">qu&aelig; tamen etsi absunt, at mens sibi conscia
+facti</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pr&aelig;metuens adhibet stimulos terretque
+flagellis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec videt interea qui terminus esse malorum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">possit nec qu&aelig; sit poenarum denique
+finis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">atque eadem metuit magis h&aelig;c ne in morte
+gravescant.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Greeks, by personifying those secret terrors, had removed
+them into a region of existences separate from man. They became
+dread goddesses, who might to some extent be propitiated by
+exorcisms or expiatory rites. This was in strict accordance with
+the mythopoeic and artistic quality of the Greek intellect. The
+stern and somewhat prosaic rectitude of the Roman broke through
+such figments of the fancy, and exposed the sore places of the soul
+itself. The theory of the Conscience, moreover, is part of the
+Lucretian polemic against false notions of the gods and the
+pernicious belief in hell.</p>
+
+<p>Positivism and Realism were qualities of Roman as distinguished
+from Greek culture. There was no self-delusion in
+Lucretius&mdash;no attempt, however unconscious, to compromise
+unpalatable truth, or to invest philosophy with the charm of myth.
+A hundred illustrations might be chosen to prove his method of
+setting forth thought with unadorned simplicity. These, however,
+are familiar to any one who has but opened <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg166" id="pg166">166</a></span> the 'De Rerum Natur&acirc;.'
+It is more profitable to trace this Roman ruggedness in the poet's
+treatment of the subject which more than any other seems to have
+preoccupied his intellect and fascinated his imagination&mdash;that
+is Death. His poem has been called by a great critic the 'poem of
+Death.' Shakspere's line&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">And Death once dead, there's no more dying
+then,</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>might be written as a motto on the title-page of the book, which
+is full of passages like this:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">scire licet nobis nil esse in morte timendum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec miserum fieri qui non est posse neque
+hilum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">differre anne ullo fuerit iam tempore natus,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">mortalem vitam mors cum immortalis ademit.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>His whole mind was steeped in the thought of death; and though
+he can hardly be said to have written 'the words that shall make
+death exhilarating,' he devoted his genius, in all its energy, to
+removing from before men the terror of the doom that waits for all.
+Sometimes, in his attempt at consolation, he adduces images which,
+like the Delphian knife, are double-handled, and cut both
+ways:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">hinc indignatur se mortalem esse creatum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec videt in vera nullum fore morte alium se</div>
+
+<div class="i4">qui possit vivus sibi se lugere peremptum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">stansque iacentem se lacerari urive dolere.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This suggests, by way of contrast, Blake's picture of the soul
+that has just left the body and laments her separation. As we read,
+we are inclined to lay the book down, and wonder whether the
+argument is, after all, conclusive. May not the spirit, when she
+has quitted her old house, be forced to weep and wring her hands,
+and stretch vain shadowy arms to the limbs that were so dear? No
+one has felt more profoundly than Lucretius the pathos of the dead.
+The intensity with <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg167" id=
+"pg167">167</a></span> which he realised what we must lose in dying
+and what we leave behind of grief to those who loved us, reaches a
+climax of restrained passion in this well-known
+paragraph:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">'iam iam non domus accipiet te l&aelig;ta, neque
+uxor</div>
+
+<div class="i4">optima nec dulces occurrent oscula nati</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pr&aelig;ripere et tacita pectus dulcedine
+tangent.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">non poteris factis florentibus esse, tuisque</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pr&aelig;sidium. misero misere' aiunt 'omnia
+ademit</div>
+
+<div class="i4">una dies infesta tibi tot pr&aelig;mia
+vit&aelig;.'</div>
+
+<div class="i4">illud in his rebus non addunt 'nec tibi earum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">iam desiderium rerum super insidet una.'</div>
+
+<div class="i4">quod bene si videant animo dictisque
+sequantur,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">dissoluant animi magno se angore metuque.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">'tu quidem ut es leto sopitus, sic eris
+&aelig;vi</div>
+
+<div class="i4">quod superest cunctis privatu' doloribus
+&aelig;gris.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">at nos horrifico cinefactum te prope busto</div>
+
+<div class="i4">insatiabiliter deflevimus, &aelig;ternumque</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nulla dies nobis m&aelig;rorem e pectore
+demet.'</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Images, again, of almost medi&aelig;val grotesqueness, rise in
+his mind when he contemplates the universality of Death. Simonides
+had dared to say: 'One horrible Charybdis waits for all.' That was
+as near a discord as a Greek could venture on. Lucretius describes
+the open gate and 'huge wide-gaping maw' which must devour heaven,
+earth, and sea, and all that they contain:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">haut igitur leti pr&aelig;clusa est ianua
+c&aelig;lo</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec soli terr&aelig;que neque altis &aelig;quoris
+undis,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sed patet immani et vasto respectat hiatu.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ever-during battle of life and death haunts his imagination.
+Sometimes he sets it forth in philosophical array of argument.
+Sometimes he touches on the theme with elegiac pity:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i12">miscetur funere vagor</div>
+
+<div class="i4">quem pueri tollunt visentis luminis oras;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec nox ulla diem neque noctem aurora
+secutast</div>
+
+<div class="i4">qu&aelig; non audierit mixtos vagitibus
+&aelig;gris</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ploratus mortis comites et funeris atri.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg168" id="pg168">168</a></span>
+Then again he returns, with obstinate persistence, to describe how
+the dread of death, fortified by false religion, hangs like a pall
+over humanity, and how the whole world is a cemetery overshadowed
+by cypresses. The most sustained, perhaps, of these passages is at
+the beginning of the third book (lines 31 to 93). The most
+profoundly melancholy is the description of the new-born child (v.
+221):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i9">quare mors immatura vagatur?</div>
+
+<div class="i4">tum porro puer, ut s&aelig;vis proiectus ab
+undis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">navita, nudus humi iacet, infans, indigus
+omni</div>
+
+<div class="i4">vitali auxilio, cum primum in luminis oras</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nixibus ex alvo matris natura profudit,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">vagituque locum lugubri complet, ut
+&aelig;cumst</div>
+
+<div class="i4">cui tantum in vita restet transire malorum.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Disease and old age, as akin to Death, touch his imagination
+with the same force. He rarely alludes to either without some lines
+as terrible as these (iii. 472, 453):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">nam dolor ac morbus leti fabricator
+uterquest.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">claudicat ingenium, delirat lingua, labat
+mens.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Another kindred subject affects him with an equal pathos. He
+sees the rising and decay of nations, age following after age, like
+waves hurrying to dissolve upon a barren shore, and writes (ii.
+75):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i10">sic rerum summa novatur</div>
+
+<div class="i4">semper, et inter se mortales mutua vivunt,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">augescunt ali&aelig; gentes, ali&aelig;
+minuuntur,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inque brevi spatio mutantur s&aelig;cla
+animantum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et quasi cursores vitai lampada tradunt.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the theme is really the procession of life through
+countless generations, it obtains a tone of sadness from the sense
+of intervenient decay and change. No Greek had the heart thus to
+dilate his imagination with the very element of death. What the
+Greeks commemorated when they spoke of Death was the loss of the
+lyre and the hymeneal chaunt, and <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg169" id="pg169">169</a></span> the passage across dim waves to a
+sunless land. Nor indeed does Lucretius, like the modern poet of
+Democracy, ascend into the regions of ecstatic trance:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Lost in the loving, floating ocean of thee,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Laved in the flood of thy bliss, O Death.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>He keeps his reason cool, and sternly contemplates the thought
+of the annihilation which awaits all perishable combinations of
+eternal things. Like Milton, Lucretius delights in giving the life
+of his imagination to abstractions. Time, with his retinue of ages,
+sweeps before his vision, and he broods in fancy over the
+illimitable ocean of the universe. The fascination of the infinite
+is the quality which, more than any other, separates Lucretius as a
+Roman poet from the Greeks.</p>
+
+<p>Another distinctive feature of his poetry Lucretius inherited as
+part of his birthright. This is the sense of Roman greatness. It
+pervades the poem, and may be felt in every part; although to
+Athens, and the Greek sages, Democritus, Empedocles, Anaxagoras,
+Heraclitus, and Epicurus, as the fountain-heads of soul-delivering
+culture, he reserves his most magnificent periods of panegyric. Yet
+when he would fain persuade his readers that the fear of death is
+nugatory, and that the future will be to them even as the past, it
+is the shock of Rome with Carthage that he dwells upon as the
+critical event of the world's history (iii. 830):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i5">Nil igitur mors est ad nos neque pertinet
+hilum,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">quandoquidem natura animi mortalis habetur.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et velut anteacto nil tempore sensimus
+&aelig;gri,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ad confligendum venientibus undique Poenis,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">omnia cum belli trepido concussa tumultu</div>
+
+<div class="i4">horrida contremuere sub altis &aelig;theris
+oris,</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><i>in dubioque fuere utrorum ad regna
+cadendum</i></div>
+
+<div class="i4"><i>omnibus humanis esset terraque
+marique</i>,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sic:</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The lines in italics could have been written by none but a <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg170" id="pg170">170</a></span> Roman
+conscious that the conflict with Carthage had decided the absolute
+empire of the habitable world. In like manner the description of a
+military review (ii. 323) is Roman: so, too, is that of the
+amphitheatre (iv. 75):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">et volgo faciunt id lutea russaque vela</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et ferrugina, cum magnis intenta theatris</div>
+
+<div class="i4">per malos volgata trabesque trementia
+flutant.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">namque ibi consessum caveai supter et omnem</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sc&aelig;nai speciem, patrum coetumque
+decorum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inficiunt coguntque suo fluitare colore.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The imagination of Lucretius, however, was habitually less
+affected by the particular than by the universal. He loved to dwell
+upon the large and general aspects of things&mdash;on the
+procession of the seasons, for example, rather than upon the
+landscape of the Campagna in spring or autumn. Therefore it is only
+occasionally and by accident that we find in his verse touches
+peculiarly characteristic of the manners of his country. Therefore,
+again, it has happened that modern critics have detected a lack of
+patriotic interest in this most Roman of all Latin poets. Also may
+it here be remembered, that the single line which sums up all the
+history of Rome in one soul-shaking hexameter, is not Lucretian but
+Virgilian:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">Tant&aelig; molis erat Romanam condere
+gentem.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The custode of the Baths of Titus, when he lifts his torch to
+explore those ruined arches, throws the wan light upon one place
+where a Roman hand has scratched that verse in gigantic letters on
+the cement. The colossal genius of Rome seems speaking to us, an
+oracle no lapse of time can render dumb.</p>
+
+<p>But Lucretius is not only the poet <i>par excellence</i> of
+Rome. He will always rank also among the first philosophical poets
+of the world: and here we find a second standpoint for inquiry. The
+question how far it is practicable to express <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg171" id="pg171">171</a></span> philosophy in
+verse, and to combine the accuracy of scientific language with the
+charm of rhythm and the ornaments of the fancy, is one which
+belongs rather to modern than to ancient criticism. In the progress
+of culture there has been an ever-growing separation between the
+several spheres of intellectual activity. What Livy said about the
+Roman Empire is true now of knowledge: <i>magnitudine laborat
+su&acirc;</i>; so that the labour of specialising and
+distinguishing has for many centuries been all-important. Not only
+do we disbelieve in the desirability of smearing honey upon the lip
+of the medicine-glass through which the draught of erudition has to
+be administered; but we know for certain that it is only at the
+meeting-points between science and emotion that the philosophic
+poet finds a proper sphere. Whatever subject-matter can be
+permeated or penetrated with strong human feeling is fit for verse.
+Then the rhythms and the forms of poetry to which high passions
+naturally move, become spontaneous. The emotion is paramount, and
+the knowledge conveyed is valuable as supplying fuel to the fire of
+feeling. There are, were, and always will be high imaginative
+points of vantage commanding the broad fields of knowledge, upon
+which the poet may take his station to survey the world and all
+that it contains. But it has long ceased to be his function to set
+forth, in any kind of metre, systems of speculative thought or
+purely scientific truths. This was not the case in the old world.
+There was a period in the development of the intellect when the
+abstractions of logic appeared like intuitions, and guesses about
+the structure of the universe still wore the garb of fancy. When
+physics and metaphysics were scarcely distinguished from mythology,
+it was natural to address the Muses at the outset of a treatise of
+ontology, and to cadence a theory of elemental substances in
+hexameter verse. Thus the philosophical poems of Xenophanes,
+Parmenides, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg172" id=
+"pg172">172</a></span> Empedocles belonged essentially to a
+transitional stage of human culture.</p>
+
+<p>There is a second species of poetry to which the name of
+philosophical may be given, though it better deserves that of
+mystical. Pantheism occupies a middle place between a scientific
+theory of the universe and a form of religious enthusiasm. It
+supplies an element in which the poetic faculty can move with
+freedom: for its conclusions, in so far as they pretend to
+philosophy, are large and general, and the emotions which it
+excites are co-extensive with the world. Therefore, Pantheistic
+mysticism, from the Bhagavadgita of the far East, through the
+Persian Soofis, down to the poets of our own century, Goethe, and
+Shelley, and Wordsworth, and Whitman, and many more whom it would
+be tedious to enumerate, has generated a whole tribe of philosophic
+singers.</p>
+
+<p>Yet a third class may be mentioned. Here we have to deal with
+what are called didactic poems. These, like the metaphysical epic,
+began to flourish in early Greece at the moment when exact thought
+was dividing itself laboriously from myths and fancies. Hesiod with
+his poem on the life of man leads the way; and the writers of moral
+sentences in elegiac verse, among whom Solon and Theognis occupy
+the first place, follow. Latin literature contributes highly
+artificial specimens of this kind in the 'Georgics' of Virgil, the
+stoical diatribes of Persius, and the 'Ars Poetica' of Horace.
+Didactic verse had a special charm for the genius of the Latin
+race. The name of such poems in the Italian literature of the
+Renaissance is legion. The French delighted in the same style under
+the same influences; nor can we fail to attribute the 'Essay on
+Man' and the 'Essay on Criticism' of our own Pope to a similar
+revival in England of Latin forms of art. The taste for didactic
+verse has declined. Yet in its stead another sort of philosophical
+poetry has grown up in this century, which, for <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg173" id="pg173">173</a></span> the want of a
+better term, may be called psychological. It deserves this title,
+inasmuch as the motive-interest of the art in question is less the
+passion or the action of humanity than the analysis of the same.
+The 'Faust' of Goethe, the 'Prelude' and 'Excursion' of Wordsworth,
+Browning's 'Sordello' and Mrs. Browning's 'Aurora Leigh,' together
+with the 'Musings' of Coleridge and the 'In Memoriam' of Tennyson,
+may be roughly reckoned in this class. It will be noticed that
+nothing has been said about professedly religious poetry, much of
+which attaches itself to mysticism, while some, like the 'Divine
+Comedy' of Dante, is philosophic in the truest sense of the
+word.</p>
+
+<p>Where, then, are we to place Lucretius? He was a Roman, imbued
+with the didactic predilections of the Latin race; and the didactic
+quality of the 'De Rerum Natur&acirc;' is unmistakable. Yet it
+would be uncritical to place this poem in the class which derives
+from Hesiod. It belongs really to the succession of Xenophanes,
+Parmenides, and Empedocles. As such it was an anachronism. The
+specific moment in the development of thought at which the
+Parmenidean Epic was natural has been already described. The Romans
+of the age of Lucretius had advanced far beyond it. The idealistic
+metaphysics of the Socratic school, the positive ethics of the
+Stoics, and the profound materialism of Epicurus, had accustomed
+the mind to habits of exact and subtle thinking, prolonged from
+generation to generation upon the same lines of speculative
+inquiry. Philosophy expressed in verse was out of date. Moreover,
+the very myths had been rationalised. Euhemerus had even been
+translated into Latin by Ennius, and his prosaic explanations of
+Greek legend had found acceptance with the essentially positive
+Roman intellect. Lucretius himself, it may be said in passing,
+thought it worth while to offer a philosophical explanation of the
+Greek mythology. The Cybele of the poets <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg174" id="pg174">174</a></span> is shown in one of his
+sublimest passages (ii. 600-645) to be Earth. To call the sea
+Neptune, corn Ceres, and wine Bacchus, seems to him a simple folly
+(ii. 652-657). We have already seen how he reduces the fiends and
+spectres of the Greek Hades to facts of moral subjectivity (iii.
+978-1023). In another place he attacks the worship of Phoebus and
+the stars (v. 110); in yet another he upsets the belief in the
+Centaurs, Scylla, and Chim&aelig;ra (v. 877-924) with a gravity
+which is almost comic. Such arguments formed a necessary element in
+his polemic against foul religion (foeda religio&mdash;turpis
+religio); to deliver men from which (i. 62-112), by establishing
+firmly in their minds the conviction that the gods exist far away
+from this world in unconcerned tranquillity (ii. 646), and by
+substituting the notion of Nature for that of deity (ii. 1090), was
+the object of his scientific demonstration.</p>
+
+<p>Lucretius, therefore, had outgrown mythology, was hostile to
+religion, and burned with unsurpassable enthusiasm to indoctrinate
+his Roman readers with the weighty conclusions of systematised
+materialism. Yet he chose the vehicle of hexameter verse, and
+trammelled his genius with limitations which Empedocles, four
+hundred years before, must have found almost intolerable. It needed
+the most ardent intellectual passion and the loftiest inspiration
+to sustain on his far flight a poet who had forged a hoplite's
+panoply for singing robes. Both passion and inspiration were
+granted to Lucretius in full measure. And just as there was
+something contradictory between the scientific subject-matter and
+the poetical form of his masterpiece, so the very sources of his
+poetic strength were such as are usually supposed to depress the
+soul. His passion was for death, annihilation, godlessness. It was
+not the eloquence, but the force of logic in Epicurus that roused
+his enthusiasm:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">ergo vivida vis animi pervicit et extra</div>
+
+<div class="i4">processit longe flammantia moenia mundi.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg175" id="pg175">175</a></span>
+No other poet who ever lived in any age, or any shore, drew
+inspiration from founts more passionless and more impersonal.</p>
+
+<p>The 'De Rerum Natur&acirc;' is therefore an attempt, unique in
+its kind, to combine philosophical exposition and poetry in an age
+when the requirements of the former had already outgrown the
+resources of the latter. Throughout the poem we trace a discord
+between the matter and the form. The frost of reason and the fire
+of fancy war in deadly conflict; for the Lucretian system destroyed
+nearly everything with which the classical imagination loved to
+play. It was only in some high ethereal region, before the majestic
+thought of Death or the new Myth of Nature, that the two faculties
+of the poet's genius met for mutual support. Only at rare intervals
+did he allow himself to make artistic use of mere mythology, as in
+the celebrated exordium of the first book, or the description of
+the Seasons in the fifth book (737-745). For the most part reason
+and fancy worked separately: after long passages of scientific
+explanation, Lucretius indulged his readers with those pictures of
+unparalleled sublimity and grace which are the charm of the whole
+poem; or dropping the phraseology of atoms, void, motion, chance,
+he spoke at times of Nature as endowed with reason and a will (v.
+186, 811, 846).</p>
+
+<p>It would be beyond the scope of this essay to discuss the
+particular form given by Lucretius to the Democritean philosophy.
+He believed the universe to be composed of atoms, infinite in
+number, and variable, to a finite extent, in form, which drift
+slantingly through an infinite void. Their combinations under the
+conditions of what we call space and time are transitory, while
+they remain themselves imperishable. Consequently, as the soul
+itself is corporeally constituted, and as thought and sensation
+depend on mere material idola, men may divest themselves of any
+fear of the hereafter. There is no such thing as providence, nor do
+the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg176" id="pg176">176</a></span>
+gods concern themselves with the kaleidoscopic medley of atoms in
+transient combination which we call our world. The latter were
+points of supreme interest to Lucretius. He seems to have cared for
+the cosmology of Epicurus chiefly as it touched humanity through
+ethics and religion. To impartial observers, the identity or the
+divergence of the forms assumed by scientific hypothesis at
+different periods of the world's history is not a matter of much
+importance. Yet a peculiar interest has of late been given to the
+Lucretian materialism by the fact that physical speculation has
+returned to what is substantially the same ground. The most modern
+theories of evolution and of molecular structure may be stated in
+language which, allowing for the progress made by exact thought
+during the last twenty centuries, is singularly like that of
+Lucretius. The Roman poet knew fewer facts than are familiar to our
+men of science, and was far less able to analyse one puzzle into a
+whole group of unexplained phenomena. He had besides but a feeble
+grasp upon those discoveries which subserve the arts of life and
+practical utility. But as regards <i>absolute
+knowledge</i>&mdash;knowledge, that is to say, of what the universe
+really is, and of how it became what it seems to us to
+be&mdash;Lucretius stood at the same point of ignorance as we,
+after the labours of Darwin and of Spencer, of Helmholtz and of
+Huxley, still do. Ontological speculation is as barren now as then,
+and the problems of existence still remain insoluble. The chief
+difference indeed between him and modern investigators is that they
+have been lessoned by the experience of the last two thousand years
+to know better the depths of human ignorance, and the directions in
+which it is possible to sound them.</p>
+
+<p>It may not be uninteresting to collect a few passages in which
+the Roman poet has expressed in his hexameters the lines of thought
+adopted by our most advanced theorists. <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg177" id="pg177">177</a></span> Here is the general
+conception of Nature, working by her own laws toward the
+achievement of that result which we apprehend through the medium of
+the senses (ii. 1090):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i5">Qu&aelig; bene cognita si teneas, natura
+videtur</div>
+
+<div class="i4">libera continuo dominis privata superbis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ipsa sua per se sponte omnia dis agere
+expers.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here again is a demonstration of the absurdity of supposing that
+the world was made for the use of men (v. 156):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">dicere porro hominum causa voluisse parare</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pr&aelig;claram mundi naturam proptereaque</div>
+
+<div class="i4">adlaudabile opus divom laudare decere</div>
+
+<div class="i4">&aelig;ternumque putare atque inmortale
+futurum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec fas esse, deum quod sit ratione vetusta</div>
+
+<div class="i4">gentibus humanis fundatum perpetuo &aelig;vo,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sollicitare suis ulla vi ex sedibus umquam</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec verbis vexare et ab imo evertere summa,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">cetera de genere hoc adfingere et addere,
+Memmi</div>
+
+<div class="i4">desiperest.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>A like cogent rhetoric is directed against the arguments of
+toleology (iv. 823):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i5">Illud in his rebus vitium vementer avessis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">effugere, errorem vitareque
+pr&aelig;metuenter,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">lumina ne facias oculorum clara creata,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">prospicere ut possemus, et ut proferre
+queamus</div>
+
+<div class="i4">proceros passus, ideo fastigia posse</div>
+
+<div class="i4">surarum ac feminum pedibus fundata plicari,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">bracchia tum porro validis ex apta lacertis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">esse manusque datas utraque ex parte
+ministras,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ut facere ad vitam possemus qu&aelig; foret
+usus.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">cetera de genere hoc inter qu&aelig;cumque
+pretantur</div>
+
+<div class="i4">omnia perversa pr&aelig;postera sunt ratione,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nil ideo quoniam natumst in corpore ut uti</div>
+
+<div class="i4">possemus, sed quod natumst id procreat usum.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec fuit ante videre oculorum lumina nata</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec dictis orare prius quam lingua creatast,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sed potius longe lingu&aelig; pr&aelig;cessit
+origo</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sermonem multoque creat&aelig; sunt prius
+aures</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg178" id=
+"pg178">178</a></span> quam sonus est auditus, et omnia denique
+membra</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ante fuere, ut opinor, eorum quam foret usus.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">haud igitur potuere utendi crescere causa.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The ultimate dissolution and the gradual decay of the
+terrestrial globe is set forth in the following luminous passage
+(ii. 1148):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">Sic igitur magni quoque circum moenia mundi</div>
+
+<div class="i2">expugnata dabunt labem putrisque ruinas.</div>
+
+<div class="i2">iamque adeo fracta est &aelig;tas effetaque
+tellus</div>
+
+<div class="i2">vix animalia parva creat qu&aelig; cuncta
+creavit</div>
+
+<div class="i2">s&aelig;cla deditque ferarum ingentia corpora
+partu.<a name="FNanchor_1_43" id="FNanchor_1_43" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_43" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The same mind which recognised these probabilities knew also
+that our globe is not single, but that it forms one among an
+infinity of sister orbs (ii. 1084):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">quapropter c&aelig;lum simili ratione
+fatendumst</div>
+
+<div class="i2">terramque et solem lunam mare, cetera qu&aelig;
+sunt</div>
+
+<div class="i2">non esse unica, sed numero magis innumerali.<a
+name="FNanchor_2_44" id="FNanchor_2_44" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_44" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>When Lucretius takes upon himself to describe the process of
+becoming which made the world what it now is, he seems to incline
+to a theory not at all dissimilar to that of unassisted evolution
+(v. 419):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">nam certe neque consilio primordia rerum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ordine se suo qu&aelig;que sagaci mente
+locarunt</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec quos qu&aelig;que darent motus pepigere
+profecto,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sed quia multa modis multis primordia rerum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ex infinito iam tempore percita plagis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ponderibusque suis consuerunt concita ferri</div>
+
+<div class="i4">omnimodisque coire atque omnia pertemptare,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">qu&aelig;cumque inter se possent congressa
+creare,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">propterea fit uti magnum volgata per
+&aelig;vom</div>
+
+<div class="i4">omne genus coetus et motus experiundo</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg179" id=
+"pg179">179</a></span> tandem conveniant ea qu&aelig; convecta
+repente</div>
+
+<div class="i4">magnarum rerum fiunt exordia s&aelig;pe,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">terrai maris et c&aelig;li generisque
+animantum.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_43" id="Footnote_1_43" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_43"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Compare
+book v. 306-317 on the evidences of decay continually at work in
+the fabric of the world.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_44" id="Footnote_2_44" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_44"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The
+same truth is insisted on with even greater force of language in
+vi. 649-652.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Entering into the details of the process, he describes the many
+ill-formed, amorphous beginnings of organised life upon the globe,
+which came to nothing, 'since nature set a ban upon their increase'
+(v. 837-848); and then proceeds to explain how, in the struggle for
+existence, the stronger prevailed over the weaker (v. 855-863).
+What is really interesting in this exposition is that Lucretius
+ascribes to nature the volition ('convertebat ibi natura foramina
+terr&aelig;;' 'quoniam natura absterruit auctum') which has
+recently been attributed by materialistic speculators to the same
+maternal power.</p>
+
+<p>To press these points, and to neglect the gap which separates
+Lucretius from thinkers fortified by the discoveries of modern
+chemistry, astronomy, physiology, and so forth, would be childish.
+All we can do is to point to the fact that the circumambient
+atmosphere of human ignorance, with reference to the main matters
+of speculation, remains undissipated. The mass of experience
+acquired since the age of Lucretius is enormous, and is infinitely
+valuable; while our power of tabulating, methodising, and extending
+the sphere of experimental knowledge seems to be unlimited. Only
+ontological deductions, whether negative or affirmative, remain
+pretty much where they were then.</p>
+
+<p>The fame of Lucretius, however, rests not on this foundation of
+hypothesis. In his poetry lies the secret of a charm which he will
+continue to exercise as long as humanity chooses to read Latin
+verse. No poet has created a world of larger and nobler images,
+designed with the <i>sprezzatura</i> of indifference to mere
+gracefulness, but all the more fascinating because of the artist's
+negligence. There is something monumental in the effect produced by
+his large-sounding single <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg180" id=
+"pg180">180</a></span> epithets and simple names. We are at home
+with the d&aelig;monic life of nature when he chooses to bring Pan
+and his following before our eyes (iv. 580). Or, again, the Seasons
+pass like figures on some frieze of Mantegna, to which, by divine
+accident, has been added the glow of Titian's colouring<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_45" id="FNanchor_1_45" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_45" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> (v.
+737):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">it ver et Venus, et veris pr&aelig;nuntius
+ante</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pennatus graditur zephyrus, vestigia propter</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Flora quibus mater pr&aelig;spargens ante
+viai</div>
+
+<div class="i4">cuncta coloribus egregiis et odoribus opplet.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inde loci sequitur calor aridus et comes una</div>
+
+<div class="i4">pulverulenta Ceres et etesia flabra
+aquilonum,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inde antumnus adit, graditur simul Eubius
+Euan,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inde ali&aelig; tempestates ventique
+secuntur,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">altitonans Volturnus et auster fulmine
+pollens.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">tandem bruma nives adfert pigrumque rigorem,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">prodit hiemps, sequitur crepitans hanc dentibus
+algor.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>With what a noble style, too, are the holidays of the primeval
+pastoral folk described (v. 1379-1404). It is no mere celebration
+of the <i>bell' et&agrave; dell' oro</i>: but we see the woodland
+glades, and hear the songs of shepherds, and feel the hush of
+summer among rustling forest trees, while at the same time all is
+far away, in a better, simpler, larger age. The sympathy of
+Lucretius for every form of country life was very noticeable. It
+belonged to that which was most deeply and sincerely poetic in the
+Latin genius, whence Virgil drew his sweetest strain of melancholy,
+and Horace his most unaffected pictures, and Catullus the
+tenderness of his best lines on Sirmio. No Roman surpassed the
+pathos with which <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg181" id=
+"pg181">181</a></span> Lucretius described the separation of a cow
+from her calf (ii. 352-365). The same note indeed was touched by
+Virgil in his lines upon the forlorn nightingale, and in the
+peroration to the third 'Georgic.' But the style of Virgil is more
+studied, the feeling more artistically elaborated. It would be
+difficult to parallel such Lucretian passages in Greek poetry. The
+Greeks lacked an undefinable something of rusticity which dignified
+the Latin race. This quality was not altogether different from what
+we call homeliness. Looking at the busts of Romans, and noticing
+their resemblance to English country gentlemen, I have sometimes
+wondered whether the Latin genius, just in those points where it
+differed from the Greek, was not approximated to the English.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_45" id="Footnote_1_45" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_45"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+elaborate illustration of the first four lines of this passage,
+painted by Botticelli (in the Florence Academy of Fine Arts),
+proves Botticelli's incapacity or unwillingness to deal with the
+subject in the spirit of the original. It is graceful and 'subtle'
+enough, but not Lucretian.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>All subjects needing a large style, brief and rapid, but at the
+same time luminous with imagination, were sure of the right
+treatment from Lucretius. This is shown by his enumeration of the
+celestial signs (v. 1188):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">in c&aelig;loque deum sedes et templa
+locarunt,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">per c&aelig;lum volvi quia nox et luna
+videtur,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">luna dies et nox et noctis signa severa</div>
+
+<div class="i4">noctivag&aelig;que faces c&aelig;li flamm&aelig;que
+volantes,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nubila sol imbres nix venti fulmina grando</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et rapidi fremitus et murmura magna minarum.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Again, he never failed to rise to an occasion which required the
+display of fervid eloquence. The Roman eloquence, which in its
+energetic volubility was the chief force of Juvenal, added a tidal
+strength and stress of storm to the quick gathering thoughts of the
+greater poet. The exordia to the first and second books, the
+analysis of Love in the fourth, the praises of Epicurus in the
+third and fifth, the praises of Empedocles and Ennius in the first,
+the elaborate passage on the progress of civilisation in the fifth,
+and the description of the plague at <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg182" id="pg182">182</a></span> Athens which closes the sixth,
+are noble instances of the sublimest poetry sustained and hurried
+onward by the volume of impassioned improvisation. It is difficult
+to imagine that Lucretius wrote slowly. The strange word
+<i>vociferari</i>, which he uses so often, and which the Romans of
+the Augustan age almost dropped from their poetic vocabulary, seems
+exactly made to suit his utterance. Yet at times he tempers the
+full torrent of resonant utterance with divine tranquillity, and
+leaves upon our mind that sense of powerful aloofness from his
+subject, which only belongs to the mightiest poets in their most
+majestic moments. One instance of this rare felicity of style shall
+end the list of our quotations (v. 1194):&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">O genus infelix humanum, talia divis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">cum tribuit facta atque iras adiunxit
+acerbas!</div>
+
+<div class="i4">quantos tum gemitus ipsi sibi, quantaque
+nobis</div>
+
+<div class="i4">volnera, quas lacrimas peperere minoribu'
+nostris!</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec pietas ullast velatum s&aelig;pe videri</div>
+
+<div class="i4">vertier ad lapidem atque omnis accedere ad
+aras</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nec procumbere humi prostratum et pandere
+palmas</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ante deum delubra nec aras sanguine multo</div>
+
+<div class="i4">spargere quadrupedum nec votis nectere vota,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sed mage pacata posse omnia mente tueri.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">nam cum suspicimus magni c&aelig;lestia mundi</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ellisque micantibus &aelig;thera fixum,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et venit in mentem solis lun&aelig;que
+viarum,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">tunc aliis oppressa malis in pectora cura</div>
+
+<div class="i4">illa quoque expergefactum caput erigere
+infit,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ne qu&aelig; forte deum nobis inmensa
+potestas</div>
+
+<div class="i4">sit, vario motu qu&aelig; candida sidera
+verset.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">temptat enim dubiam mentem rationis egestas,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">ecqu&aelig;nam fuerit mundi genitalis origo,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">et simul ecqu&aelig; sit finis, quoad moenia
+mundi</div>
+
+<div class="i4">solliciti motus hunc possint ferre laborem,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">an divinitus &aelig;terna donata salute</div>
+
+<div class="i4">perpetuo possint &aelig;vi labentia tractu</div>
+
+<div class="i4">inmensi validas &aelig;vi contemnere viris.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>It would be impossible to adduce from any other poet a <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg183" id="pg183">183</a></span> passage
+in which the deepest doubts and darkest terrors and most vexing
+questions that beset the soul, are touched with an eloquence more
+stately and a pathos more sublime. Without losing the sense of
+humanity, we are carried off into the infinite. Such poetry is as
+imperishable as the subject of which it treats.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg184" id=
+"pg184">184</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="ANTINOUS" id="ANTINOUS" /><i>ANTINOUS</i></h3>
+
+<p>Visitors to picture and sculpture galleries are haunted by the
+forms of two handsome young men&mdash;Sebastian and Antinous. Both
+were saints: the one of decadent Paganism, the other of
+mythologising Christianity. According to the popular beliefs to
+which they owed their canonisation, both suffered death in the
+bloom of earliest manhood for the faith that burned in them. There
+is, however, this difference between the two&mdash;that whereas
+Sebastian is a shadowy creature of the pious fancy, Antinous
+preserves a marked and unmistakable personality. All his statues
+are distinguished by unchanging characteristics. The pictures of
+Sebastian vary according to the ideal of adolescent beauty
+conceived by each successive artist. In the frescoes of Perugino
+and Luini he shines with the pale pure light of saintliness. On the
+canvas of Sodoma he reproduces the voluptuous charm of youthful
+Bacchus, with so much of anguish in his martyred features as may
+serve to heighten his d&aelig;monic fascination. On the richer
+panels of the Venetian masters he glows with a flame of earthly
+passion aspiring heavenward. Under Guido's hand he is a model of
+mere carnal comeliness. And so forth through the whole range of the
+Italian painters. We know Sebastian only by his arrows. The case is
+very different with Antinous. Depicted under diverse
+attributes&mdash;as Hermes of the wrestling-ground, as
+Arist&aelig;us or Vertumnus, as Dionysus, as Ganymede, as Herakles,
+or as a god of ancient Egypt&mdash;his individuality is always
+prominent. No metamorphosis of <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg185" id="pg185">185</a></span> divinity can change the
+lineaments he wore on earth. And this difference, so marked in the
+artistic presentation of the two saints, is no less striking in
+their several histories. The legend of Sebastian tells us nothing
+to be relied upon, except that he was a Roman soldier converted to
+the Christian faith, and martyred. In spite of the perplexity and
+mystery that involve the death of Antinous in impenetrable gloom,
+he is a true historic personage, no phantom of myth, but a man as
+real as Hadrian, his master.</p>
+
+<p>Antinous, as he appears in sculpture, is a young man of eighteen
+or nineteen years, almost faultless in his form. His beauty is not
+of a pure Greek type. Though perfectly proportioned and developed
+by gymnastic exercises to the true athletic fulness, his limbs are
+round and florid, suggesting the possibility of early
+over-ripeness. The muscles are not trained to sinewy firmness, but
+yielding and elastic; the chest is broad and singularly swelling;
+and the shoulders are placed so far back from the thorax that the
+breasts project beyond them in a massive arch. It has been asserted
+that one shoulder is slightly lower than the other. Some of the
+busts seem to justify this statement; but the appearance is due
+probably to the different position of the two arms, one of which,
+if carried out, would be lifted and the other be depressed. The
+legs and arms are modelled with exquisite grace of outline; yet
+they do not show that readiness for active service which is
+noticeable in the statues of the Meleager, the Apoxyomenos, or the
+Belvedere Hermes. The whole body combines Greek beauty of structure
+with something of Oriental voluptuousness. The same fusion of
+diverse elements may be traced in the head. It is not too large,
+though more than usually broad, and is nobly set upon a massive
+throat, slightly inclined forwards, as though this posture were
+habitual; the hair lies thick in clusters, which only form curls at
+the tips. The forehead <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg186" id=
+"pg186">186</a></span> is low and somewhat square; the eyebrows are
+level, of a peculiar shape, and very thick, converging so closely
+as almost to meet above the deep-cut eyes. The nose is straight,
+but blunter than is consistent with the Greek ideal. Both cheeks
+and chin are delicately formed, but fuller than a severe taste
+approves: one might trace in their rounded contours either a
+survival of infantine innocence and immaturity, or else the sign of
+rapidly approaching over-bloom. The mouth is one of the loveliest
+ever carved; but here again the blending of the Greek and Oriental
+types is visible. The lips, half parted, seem to pout; and the
+distance between mouth and nostrils is exceptionally short. The
+undefinable expression of the lips, together with the weight of the
+brows and slumberous half-closed eyes, gives a look of sulkiness or
+voluptuousness to the whole face. This, I fancy, is the first
+impression which the portraits of Antinous produce; and Shelley has
+well conveyed it by placing the two following phrases, 'eager and
+impassioned tenderness' and 'effeminate sullenness,' in close
+juxtaposition.<a name="FNanchor_1_46" id="FNanchor_1_46" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_46" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> But, after longer
+familiarity with the whole range of Antinous's portraits, and after
+study of his life, we are brought to read the peculiar expression
+of his face and form somewhat differently. A prevailing melancholy,
+sweetness of temperament overshadowed by resignation, brooding
+reverie, the innocence of youth, touched and saddened by a calm
+resolve or an accepted doom&mdash;such are the sentences we form to
+give distinctness to a still vague and uncertain impression. As we
+gaze, Virgil's lines upon the young Marcellus recur to our mind:
+what seemed sullen, becomes mournful; the unmistakable
+voluptuousness is transfigured in tranquillity.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_46" id="Footnote_1_46" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_46"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Fragment, <i>The Coliseum</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After all is said and written, the statues of Antinous do not
+render up their secret. Like some of the Egyptian gods with whom he
+was associated, he remains for us a sphinx, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg187" id="pg187">187</a></span> secluded in the
+shade of a 'mild mystery.' His soul, like the Harpocrates he
+personated, seems to hold one finger on closed lips, in token of
+eternal silence. One thing, however, is certain. We have before us
+no figment of the artistic imagination, but a real youth of
+incomparable beauty, just as nature made him, with all the
+inscrutableness of undeveloped character, with all the pathos of a
+most untimely doom, with the almost imperceptible imperfections
+that render choice reality more permanently charming than the
+ideal. It has been disputed whether the Antinous statues are
+portraits or idealised works of inventive art; and it is usually
+conceded that the sculptors of Hadrian's age were not able to
+produce a new ideal type. Critics, therefore, like Helbig and
+Overbeck, arrive at the conclusion that Antinous was one of
+nature's masterpieces, modelled in bronze, marble, and granite with
+almost flawless technical dexterity. Without attaching too much
+weight to this kind of criticism, it is well to find the decisions
+of experts in harmony with the instincts of simple observers.
+Antinous is as real as any man who ever sat for his portrait to a
+modern sculptor.</p>
+
+<p>But who was Antinous, and what is known of him? He was a native
+of Bithynium or Claudiopolis, a Greek town claiming to have been a
+colony from Arcadia, which was situated near the Sangarius, in the
+Roman province of Bithynia; therefore he may have had pure Hellenic
+blood in his veins, or, what is more probable, his ancestry may
+have been hybrid between the Greek immigrants and the native
+populations of Asia Minor. Antinous was probably born in the first
+decade of the second century of our era. About his youth and
+education we know nothing. He first appears upon the scene of the
+world's history as Hadrian's friend. Whether the Emperor met with
+him during his travels in Asia Minor, whether he found him among
+the students of the University at <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg188" id="pg188">188</a></span> Athens, or whether the boy had
+been sent to Rome in his childhood, must remain matter of the
+merest conjecture. We do not even know for certain whether Antinous
+was free or a slave. The report that he was one of the Emperor's
+pages rests upon the testimony of Hegesippus, quoted by a Christian
+Father, and cannot therefore be altogether relied upon. It
+receives, however, some confirmation from the fact that Antinous is
+more than once represented in the company of Hadrian and Trajan in
+a page's hunting dress upon the basreliefs which adorn the Arch of
+Constantine. The so-called Antinous-Castor of the Villa Albani is
+probably of a similar character. Winckelmann, who adopted the
+tradition as trustworthy, pointed out the similarity between the
+portraits of Antinous and some lines in Ph&aelig;drus, which
+describe a curly-haired <i>atriensis</i>. If Antinous took the rank
+of <i>atriensis</i> in the imperial <i>p&aelig;dagogium</i>, his
+position would have been, to say the least, respectable; for to
+these upper servants was committed the charge of the <i>atrium</i>,
+where the Romans kept their family archives, portraits, and works
+of art. Yet he must have quitted this kind of service some time
+before his death, since we find him in the company of Hadrian upon
+one of those long journeys in which an <i>atriensis</i> would have
+had no <i>atrium</i> to keep. By the time of Hadrian's visit to
+Egypt, Antinous had certainly passed into the closest relationship
+with his imperial master; and what we know of the Emperor's
+inclination towards literary and philosophical society perhaps
+justifies the belief that the youth he admitted to his friendship
+had imbibed Greek culture, and had been initiated into those cloudy
+metaphysics which amused the leisure of semi-Oriental thinkers in
+the last age of decaying Paganism.</p>
+
+<p>It was a moment in the history of the human mind when East and
+West were blending their traditions to form the husk of Christian
+creeds and the fantastic visions of neo-Platonism. <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg189" id="pg189">189</a></span> Rome herself
+had received with rapture the strange rites of Nilotic and of
+Syrian superstition. Alexandria was the forge of fanciful
+imaginations, the majority of which were destined to pass like
+vapours and leave not a wrack behind, while a few fastened with the
+force of dogma on the conscience of awakening Christendom. During
+Hadrian's reign it was still uncertain which among the many hybrid
+products of that motley age would live and flourish; and the
+Emperor, we know, dreamed fondly of reviving the cults and
+restoring the splendour of degenerate Hellas. At the same time he
+was not averse to the more mystic rites of Egypt: in his villa at
+Tivoli he built a Serapeum, and named one of its quarters Canopus.
+What part Antinous may have taken in the projects of his friend and
+master we know not; yet, when we come to consider the circumstances
+of his death, it may not be superfluous to have thus touched upon
+the intellectual conditions of the world in which he lived. The
+mixed blood of the boy, born and bred in a Greek city near the
+classic ground of Dindymean rites, and his beauty, blent of
+Hellenic and Eastern qualities, may also not unprofitably be
+remembered. In such a youth, nurtured between Greece and Asia,
+admitted to the friendship of an emperor for whom neo-Hellenism was
+a life's dream in the midst of grave state-cares, influenced by the
+dark and symbolical creeds of a dimly apprehended East, might there
+not have lurked some spark of enthusiasm combining the impulses of
+Atys and Aristogeiton, pathetic even in its inefficiency when
+judged by the light of modern knowledge, but heroic at that moment
+in its boundless vista of great deeds to be accomplished?</p>
+
+<p>After journeying through Greece, Asia Minor, Syria, Palestine,
+and Arabia, Hadrian, attended by Antinous, came to Egypt. He there
+restored the tomb of Pompey, near Pelusium, with great
+magnificence, and shortly afterwards <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg190" id="pg190">190</a></span> embarked from Alexandria upon the
+Nile, proceeding on his journey through Memphis into the
+Theba&iuml;d. When he had arrived near an ancient city named Besa,
+on the right bank of the river, he lost his friend. Antinous was
+drowned in the Nile. He had thrown himself, it was believed, into
+the water; seeking thus by a voluntary death to substitute his own
+life for Hadrian's, and to avert predicted perils from the Roman
+Empire. What these perils were, and whether Hadrian was ill, or
+whether an oracle had threatened him with approaching calamity, we
+do not know. Even supposition is at fault, because the date of the
+event is still uncertain; some authorities placing Hadrian's
+Egyptian journey in the year 122, and others in the year 130 A.D.
+Of the two dates, the second seems the more probable. We are left
+to surmise that, if the Emperor was in danger, the recent
+disturbances which followed a new discovery of Apis, may have
+exposed him to fanatical conspiracy. The same doubt affects an
+ingenious conjecture that rumours which reached the Roman court of
+a new rising in Jud&aelig;a had disturbed the Emperor's mind, and
+led to the belief that he was on the verge of a mysterious doom. He
+had pacified the Empire and established its administration on a
+solid basis. Yet the revolt of the indomitable Jews&mdash;more
+dreaded since the days of Titus than any other perturbation of the
+imperial economy&mdash;would have been enough, especially in Egypt,
+to engender general uneasiness. However this may have been, the
+grief of the Emperor, intensified either by gratitude or remorse,
+led to the immediate canonisation of Antinous. The city where he
+died was rebuilt, and named after him. His worship as a hero and as
+a god spread far and wide throughout the provinces of the
+Mediterranean. A new star, which appeared about the time of his
+decease, was supposed to be his soul received into the company of
+the immortals. Medals were struck in his honour, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg191" id="pg191">191</a></span> and countless
+works of art were produced to make his memory undying. Great cities
+wore wreaths of red lotos on his feast-day in commemoration of the
+manner of his death. Public games were celebrated in his honour at
+the city Antino&euml;, and also in Arcadian Mantinea. This
+canonisation may probably have taken place in the fourteenth year
+of Hadrian's reign, A.D. 130.<a name="FNanchor_1_47" id=
+"FNanchor_1_47" /><a href="#Footnote_1_47" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> Antinous continued to be worshipped until the
+reign of Valentinian.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_47" id="Footnote_1_47" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_47"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Overbeck, Hausrath, and Mommsen, following apparently the
+conclusions arrived at by Flemmer in his work on Hadrian's
+journeys, place it in 130 A.D. This would leave an interval of only
+eight years between the deaths of Antinous and Hadrian. It may here
+be observed that two medals of Antinous, referred by Rasche with
+some hesitation to the Egyptian series, bear the dates of the
+eighth and ninth years of Hadrian's reign. If these coins are
+genuine, and if we accept Flemmer's conclusions, they must have
+been struck in the lifetime of Antinous. Neither of them represents
+Antinous with the insignia of deity: one gives the portrait of
+Hadrian upon the reverse.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thus far I have told a simple story, as though the details of
+the youth's last days were undisputed. Still we are as yet but on
+the threshold of the subject. All that we have any right to take
+for uncontested is that Antinous passed from this life near the
+city of Besa, called thereafter Antinoopolis or Antino&euml;.
+Whether he was drowned by accident, whether he drowned himself in
+order to save Hadrian by vicarious suffering, or whether Hadrian
+sacrificed him in order to extort the secrets of fate from
+blood-propitiated deities, remains a question buried in the deepest
+gloom. With a view to throwing such light as is possible upon the
+matter, we must proceed to summon in their order the most
+trustworthy authorities among the ancients.</p>
+
+<p>Dion Cassius takes precedence. In compiling his life of Hadrian,
+he had beneath his eyes the Emperor's own 'Commentaries,' published
+under the name of the freedman Phlegon. We therefore learn from him
+at least what the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg192" id=
+"pg192">192</a></span> friend of Antinous wished the world to know
+about his death; and though this does not go for much, since
+Hadrian is himself an accused person in the suit before us, yet the
+whole Roman Empire may be said to have accepted his account, and
+based on it a pious cult that held its own through the next three
+centuries of growing Christianity. Dion, in the abstract of his
+history compiled by Xiphilinus, speaks then to this effect: 'In
+Egypt he also built the city named after Antinous. Now Antinous was
+a native of Bithynium, a city of Bithynia, which we also call
+Claudiopolis. He was Hadrian's favourite, and he died in Egypt:
+whether by having fallen into the Nile, as Hadrian writes, or by
+having been sacrificed, as the truth was. For Hadrian, as I have
+said, was in general over-much given to superstitious subtleties,
+and practised all kinds of sorceries and magic arts. At any rate he
+so honoured Antinous, whether because of the love he felt for him,
+or because he died voluntarily, since a willing victim was needed
+for his purpose, that he founded a city in the place where he met
+this fate, and called it after him, and dedicated statues, or
+rather images, of him in, so to speak, the whole inhabited world.
+Lastly, he affirmed that a certain star which he saw was the star
+of Antinous, and listened with pleasure to the myths invented by
+his companions about this star having really sprung from the soul
+of his favourite, and having then for the first time appeared. For
+which things he was laughed at.'</p>
+
+<p>We may now hear what Spartian, in his 'Vita Hadriani,' has to
+say: 'He lost his favourite, Antinous, while sailing on the Nile,
+and lamented him like a woman. About Antinous reports vary, for
+some say that he devoted his life for Hadrian, while others hint
+what his condition seems to prove, as well as Hadrian's excessive
+inclination to luxury. Some Greeks, at the instance of Hadrian,
+canonised him, asserting that oracles were <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg193" id="pg193">193</a></span> given by him, which Hadrian
+himself is supposed to have made up.'</p>
+
+<p>In the third place comes Aurelius Victor: 'Others maintain that
+this sacrifice of Antinous was both pious and religious; for when
+Hadrian was wishing to prolong his life, and the magicians required
+a voluntary vicarious victim, they say that, upon the refusal of
+all others, Antinous offered himself.'</p>
+
+<p>These are the chief authorities. In estimating them we must
+remember that, though Dion Cassius wrote less than a century after
+the event narrated, he has come down to us merely in fragments and
+in the epitome of a Byzantine of the twelfth century, when
+everything that could possibly be done to discredit the worship of
+Antinous, and to blacken the memory of Hadrian, had been attempted
+by the Christian Fathers. On the other hand, Spartianus and
+Aurelius Victor compiled their histories at too distant a date to
+be of first-rate value. Taking the three reports together, we find
+that antiquity differed about the details of Antinous's death.
+Hadrian himself averred that his friend was drowned; and it was
+surmised that he had drowned himself in order to prolong his
+master's life. The courtiers, however, who had scoffed at Hadrian's
+fondness for his favourite, and had laughed to see his sorrow for
+his death, somewhat illogically came to the conclusion that
+Antinous had been immolated by the Emperor, either because a victim
+was needed to prolong his life, or because some human sacrifice was
+required in order to complete a dark mysterious magic rite. Dion,
+writing not very long after the event, believed that Antinous had
+been immolated for some such purpose with his own consent.
+Spartian, who wrote at the distance of more than a century, felt
+uncertain about the question of self-devotion; but Aurelius Victor,
+following after the interval of another century, unhesitatingly
+adopted Dion's view, and gave it a fresh colour. This opinion he
+summarised in a <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg194" id=
+"pg194">194</a></span> compact, authoritative form, upon which we
+may perhaps found an assumption that the belief in Antinous, as a
+self-devoted victim, had been gradually growing through two
+centuries.</p>
+
+<p>There are therefore three hypotheses to be considered. The first
+is that Antinous died an accidental death by drowning; the second
+is, that Antinous, in some way or another, gave his life willingly
+for Hadrian's; the third is, that Hadrian ordered his immolation in
+the performance of magic rites.</p>
+
+<p>For the first of the three hypotheses we have the authority of
+Hadrian himself, as quoted by Dion. The simple words
+&epsilon;&#7984;&sigmaf; &tau;&omicron;&nu;
+&Nu;&epsilon;&iota;&lambda;&omicron;&nu;
+&epsilon;&kappa;&pi;&epsilon;&sigma;&#8060;&nu; imply no more than
+accidental death; and yet, if the Emperor had believed the story of
+his favourite's self-devotion, it is reasonable to suppose that he
+would have recorded it in his 'Memoirs.' Accepting this view of the
+case, we must refer the deification of Antinous wholly to Hadrian's
+affection; and the tales of his <i>devotio</i> may have been
+invented partly to flatter the Emperor's grief, partly to explain
+its violence to the Roman world. This hypothesis seems, indeed, by
+far the most natural of the three; and if we could strip the
+history of Antinous of its mysterious and mythic elements, it is
+rational to believe that we should find his death a simple
+accident. Yet our authorities prove that writers of history among
+the ancients wavered between the two other theories of (i)
+Self-Devotion and (ii) Immolation, with a bias toward the latter.
+These, then, have now to be considered with some attention. Both,
+it may parenthetically be observed, relieve Antinous from a moral
+stigma, since in either case a pure untainted victim was
+required.</p>
+
+<p>If we accept the former of the two remaining hypotheses, we can
+understand how love and gratitude, together with sorrow, led
+Hadrian to canonise Antinous. If we accept the latter, Hadrian's
+sorrow itself becomes inexplicable; and we <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg195" id="pg195">195</a></span> must attribute the
+foundation of Antino&euml; and the deification of Antinous to
+remorse. It may be added, while balancing these two solutions of
+the problem, that cynical sophists, like Hadrian's Gr&aelig;culi,
+were likely to have put the worst construction on the Emperor's
+passion, and to have invented the worst stories concerning the
+favourite's death. To perpetuate these calumnious reports was the
+real interest of the Christian apologists, who not unnaturally
+thought it scandalous that a handsome page should be deified. Thus,
+at first sight, the balance of probability inclines toward the
+former of the two solutions, while the second may be rejected as
+based upon court-gossip and religious animosity. Attention may also
+again be called to the fact that Hadrian ventured to publish an
+account of Antinous quite inconsistent with what Dion chose to call
+the truth, and that virtuous Emperors like the Antonines did not
+interfere with a cult, which, had it been paid to the mere victim
+of Hadrian's passion and his superstition, would have been an
+infamy even in Rome. Moreover, that cult was not, like the
+creations of the impious emperors, forgotten or destroyed by public
+acclamation. It took root and flourished apparently, as we shall
+see, because it satisfied some craving of the popular religious
+sense, and because the people believed that this man had died for
+his friend. It will not, however, do to dismiss the two hypotheses
+so lightly.</p>
+
+<p>The alternative of self-devotion presents itself under a double
+aspect. Antinous may either have committed suicide by drowning with
+the intention of prolonging the Emperor's life, or he may have
+offered himself as a voluntary victim to the magicians, who
+required a sacrifice for a similar purpose. Spartian's brief
+phrase, <i>aliis eum devotum pro Hadriano</i>, may seem to point to
+the first form of self-devotion; the testimony of Aurelius Victor
+clearly supports the second: yet it does not much matter which of
+the two explanations we adopt. <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg196" id="pg196">196</a></span> The point is whether Antinous
+gave his life willingly to save the Emperor's, or whether he was
+murdered for the satisfaction of some superstitious curiosity. It
+was absolutely necessary that the vicarious victim should make a
+free and voluntary oblation of himself. That the notion of
+vicarious suffering was familiar to the ancients is sufficiently
+attested by the phrases
+&alpha;&nu;&tau;&#943;&psi;&upsilon;&chi;&omicron;&iota;,
+&alpha;&nu;&tau;&alpha;&nu;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&iota;, and
+<i>hostia succidanea</i>. We find traces of it in the legend of
+Alcestis, who died for Admetus, and of Cheiron, who took the place
+of Prometheus in Hades. Suetonius records that in the first days of
+Caligula's popularity, when he was labouring under dangerous
+illness, many Romans of both sexes vowed their lives for his
+recovery in temples of the gods. That this superstition retained a
+strong hold on the popular imagination in the time of Hadrian is
+proved by the curious affirmation of Aristides, a contemporary of
+that Emperor. He says that once, when he was ill, a certain
+Philumene offered her soul for his soul, her body for his body, and
+that, upon his own recovery, she died. On the same testimony it
+appears that her brother Hermeas had also died for Aristides. This
+faith in the efficacy of substitution is persistent in the human
+race. Not long ago a Christian lady was supposed to have vowed her
+own life for the prolongation of that of Pope Pius IX., and good
+Catholics inclined to the belief that the sacrifice had been
+accepted. We shall see that in the first centuries of Christendom
+the popular conviction that Antinous had died for Hadrian brought
+him into inconvenient rivalry with Christ, whose vicarious
+suffering was the cardinal point of the new creed.</p>
+
+<p>The alternative of immolation has next to be considered. The
+question before us here is, Did Hadrian sacrifice Antinous for the
+satisfaction of a superstitious curiosity, and in the performance
+of magic rites? Dion Cassius uses the word
+&#7985;&epsilon;&rho;&omicron;&upsilon;&rho;&gamma;&eta;&theta;&epsilon;&iota;&sigmaf;,
+and explains it by saying that Hadrian needed a voluntary <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg197" id="pg197">197</a></span> human
+victim for the accomplishment of an act of divination in which he
+was engaged. Both Spartian and Dion speak emphatically of the
+Emperor's proclivities to the black art; and all antiquity agreed
+about this trait in his character. Ammianus Marcellinus spoke of
+him as '<i>futurorum sciscitationi nimi&aelig; deditum</i>.'
+Tertullian described him as '<i>curiositatum omnium
+exploratorem</i>.' To multiply such phrases would, however, be
+superfluous, for they are probably mere repetitions from the text
+of Dion. That human victims were used by the Romans of the Empire
+seems certain. Lampridius, in the 'Life of Heliogabalus,' records
+his habit of slaying handsome and noble youths, in order that he
+might inspect their entrails. Eusebius, in his 'Life of Maxentius,'
+asserts the same of that Emperor. <i>Quum inspiceret exta
+puerilia</i>, &nu;&epsilon;&omicron;&gamma;&nu;&omicron;&nu;
+&sigma;&pi;&lambda;&#940;&gamma;&chi;&nu;&alpha;
+&beta;&rho;&#941;&phi;&omega;&nu;
+&delta;&iota;&epsilon;&rho;&epsilon;&upsilon;&nu;&omicron;&mu;&#941;&nu;&omicron;&upsilon;,
+are the words used by Lampridius and Eusebius. Justin Martyr speaks
+of
+&epsilon;&pi;&omicron;&pi;&tau;&epsilon;&#973;&sigma;&epsilon;&iota;&sigmaf;
+&pi;&alpha;&#943;&delta;&omega;&nu;
+&alpha;&delta;&iota;&alpha;&phi;&theta;&#972;&rho;&omicron;&nu;.
+Caracalla and Julian are credited with similar bloody sacrifices.
+Indeed, it may be affirmed in general that tyrants have ever been
+eager to foresee the future and to extort her secrets from Fate,
+stopping short at no crime in the attempt to quiet a corroding
+anxiety for their own safety. What we read about Italian
+despots&mdash;Ezzelino da Romano, Sigismondo Malatesta, Filippo
+Maria Visconti, and Pier Luigi Farnese&mdash;throws light upon the
+practice of their Imperial predecessors; while the mysterious
+murder of the beautiful Astorre Manfredi by the Borgias in
+Hadrian's Mausoleum has been referred by modern critics of
+authority to the same unholy curiosity. That Hadrian laboured under
+this moral disease, and that he deliberately used the body of
+Antinous for <i>extispicium</i>, is, I think, Dion's opinion. But
+are we justified in reckoning Hadrian among these tyrants? That
+must depend upon our view of his character.</p>
+
+<p>Hadrian was a man in whom the most conflicting qualities <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg198" id="pg198">198</a></span> were
+blent. In his youth and through his whole life he was passionately
+fond of hunting; hardy, simple in his habits, marching bareheaded
+with his legions through German frost and Nubian heat, sharing the
+food of his soldiers, and exercising the most rigid military
+discipline. At the same time he has aptly been described as 'the
+most sumptuous character of antiquity.' He filled the cities of the
+empire with showy buildings, and passed his last years in a kind of
+classic Munich, where he had constructed imitations of every
+celebrated monument in Europe. He was so far fond of nature that,
+anticipating the most recently developed of modern tastes, he
+ascended Mount &AElig;tna and the Mons Casius, in order to enjoy
+the spectacle of sunrise. In his villa at Tivoli he indulged a
+trivial fancy by christening one garden Tempe and another the
+Elysian Fields; and he had his name carved on the statue of the
+vocal Memnon with no less gusto than a modern tourist: <i>audivi
+voces divinas</i>. His memory was prodigious, his eloquence in the
+Latin language studied and yet forcible, his knowledge of Greek
+literature and philosophy far from contemptible. He enjoyed the
+society of Sophists and distinguished rhetoricians, and so far
+affected authorship as to win the unenviable title of
+<i>Gr&aelig;culus</i> in his own lifetime: yet he never neglected
+state affairs. Owing to his untiring energy and vast capacity for
+business, he not only succeeded in reorganising every department of
+the empire, social, political, fiscal, military, and municipal; but
+he also held in his own hands the threads of all its complicated
+machinery. He was strict in matters of routine, and appears to have
+been almost a martinet among his legions: yet in social intercourse
+he lived on terms of familiarity with inferiors, combining the
+graces of elegant conversation with the <i>bonhomie</i> of boon
+companionship, displaying a warm heart to his friends, and using
+magnificent generosity. He restored the <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg199" id="pg199">199</a></span> domestic as well as the
+military discipline of the Roman world; and his code of laws lasted
+till Justinian. Among many of his useful measures of reform he
+issued decrees restricting the power of masters over their slaves,
+and depriving them of their old capital jurisdiction. His
+biographers find little to accuse him of beyond a singular avidity
+for fame, addiction to magic arts and luxurious vices: yet they
+adduce no proof of his having, at any rate before the date of his
+final retirement to his Tiburtine villa, shared the crimes of a
+Nero or a Commodus. On the whole, we must recognise in Hadrian a
+nature of extraordinary energy, capacity for administrative
+government, and mental versatility. A certain superficiality,
+vulgarity, and commonplaceness seems to have been forced upon him
+by the circumstances of his age, no less than by his special
+temperament. This quality of the immitigable commonplace is clearly
+written on his many portraits. Their chief interest consists in a
+fixed expression of fatigue&mdash;as though the man were weary with
+much seeking and with little finding. In all things, he was
+somewhat of a dilettante; and the Nemesis of that sensibility to
+impressions which distinguishes the dilettante, came upon him ere
+he died. He ended his days in an appalling and persistent paroxysm
+of <i>ennui</i>, desiring the death which would not come to his
+relief.</p>
+
+<p>The whole creative and expansive force of Hadrian's century lay
+concealed in the despised Christian sect. Art was expiring in a
+sunset blaze of gorgeous imitation, tasteless grandeur, technical
+elaboration. Philosophy had become sophistical or mystic; its real
+life survived only in the phrase 'entbehren sollst du, sollst
+entbehren' of the Stoics. Literature was repetitive and scholastic.
+Tacitus, Suetonius, Plutarch, and Juvenal indeed were living; but
+their works formed the last great literary triumph of the age.
+Religion <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg200" id=
+"pg200">200</a></span> had degenerated under the twofold influences
+of scepticism and intrusive foreign cults. It was, in truth, an age
+in which, for a sound heart and manly intellect, there lay no
+proper choice except between the stoicism of Marcus Aurelius and
+the Christianity of the Catacombs. All else had passed into shams,
+unrealities, and visions. Now Hadrian was neither stoical nor
+Christian, though he so far coquetted with Christianity as to build
+temples dedicated to no Pagan deity, which passed in after times
+for unfinished churches. He was a <i>Gr&aelig;culus</i>. In that
+contemptuous epithet, stripping it of its opprobrious significance,
+we find the real key to his character. In a failing age he lived a
+restless-minded, many-sided soldier-prince, whose inner hopes and
+highest aspirations were for Hellas. Hellas, her art, her history,
+her myths, her literature, her lovers, her young heroes filled him
+with enthusiasm. To rebuild her ruined cities, to restore her
+deities, to revive her golden life of blended poetry and science,
+to reconstruct her spiritual empire as he had re-organised the
+Roman world, was Hadrian's dream. It was indeed a dream; one which
+a far more creative genius than Hadrian's could not have
+realised.</p>
+
+<p>But now, returning to the two alternatives regarding his
+friend's death: was this philo-Hellenic Emperor the man to have
+immolated Antinous for <i>extispicium</i> and then deified him?
+Probably not. The discord between this bloody act and subsequent
+hypocrisy upon the one hand, and Hadrian's Greek sympathies upon
+the other, must be reckoned too strong for even such a dipsychic
+character as his. There is nothing in either Spartian or Dion to
+justify the opinion that he was naturally cruel or fantastically
+deceitful. On the other hand, Hadrian's philo-Hellenic,
+splendour-loving, somewhat tawdry, fame-desiring nature was
+precisely of the sort to jump eagerly at the deification of a
+favourite who had either died a <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg201" id="pg201">201</a></span> natural death or killed himself
+to save his master. Hadrian had loved Antinous with a Greek passion
+in his lifetime. The Roman Emperor was half a god. He remembered
+how Zeus had loved Ganymede, and raised him to Olympus; how
+Achilles had loved Patroclus, and performed his funeral rites at
+Troy; how the demi-god Alexander had loved Heph&aelig;stion, and
+lifted him into a hero's seat on high. He, Hadrian, would do the
+like, now that death had robbed him of his comrade. The Roman, who
+surrounded himself at Tivoli with copies of Greek temples, and who
+called his garden Tempe, played thus at being Zeus, Achilles,
+Alexander; and the civilised world humoured his whim. Though the
+Sophists scoffed at his real grief and honourable tears, they
+consecrated his lost favourite, found out a star for him, carved
+him in breathing brass, and told tales about his sacred flower.
+Pancrates was entertained in Alexandria at the public cost for his
+fable of the lotos; and the lyrist Mesomedes received so liberal a
+pension for his hymn to Antinous that Antoninus Pius found it
+needful to curtail it.</p>
+
+<p>After weighing the authorities, considering the circumstances of
+the age, and estimating Hadrian's character, I am thus led to
+reject the alternative of immolation. Spartian's own words, <i>quem
+muliebriter flevit</i>, as well as the subsequent acts of the
+Emperor and the acquiescence of the whole world in the new deity,
+prove to my mind that in the suggestion of <i>extispicium</i> we
+have one of those covert calumnies which it is impossible to set
+aside at this distance of time, and which render the history of
+Roman Emperors and Popes almost impracticable.</p>
+
+<p>The case, then, stands before us thus. Antinous was drowned in
+the Nile, near Besa, either by accident or by voluntary suicide to
+save his master's life. Hadrian's love for him had been unmeasured,
+so was his grief. Both of <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg202" id=
+"pg202">202</a></span> them were genuine; but in the nature of the
+man there was something artificial. He could not be content to love
+and grieve alone; he must needs enact the part of Alexander, and
+realise, if only by a sort of makebelieve, a portion of his Greek
+ideal. Antinous, the beautiful servant, was to take the place of
+Ganymede, of Patroclus, of Heph&aelig;stion; never mind if Hadrian
+was a Roman and his friend a Bithynian, and if the love between
+them, as between an emperor of fifty and a boy of nineteen, had
+been less than heroic. The opportunity was too fair to be missed;
+the <i>r&ocirc;le</i> too fascinating to be rejected. The world, in
+spite of covert sneers, lent itself to the sham, and Antinous
+became a god.</p>
+
+<p>The uniformly contemptuous tone of antique authorities almost
+obliges us to rank this deification of Antinous, together with the
+Tiburtine villa and the dream of a Hellenic Renaissance, among the
+part-shams, part-enthusiasms of Hadrian's 'sumptuous' character.
+Spartian's account of the consecration, and his hint that Hadrian
+composed the oracles delivered at his favourite's tomb; Arrian's
+letter to the Emperor describing the island Leuk&egrave; and
+flattering him by an adroit comparison with Achilles; the poem by
+Pancrates mentioned in the 'Deipnosophist&aelig;,' which furnished
+the myth of a new lotos dedicated to Antinous; the invention of the
+star, and Hadrian's conversations with his courtiers on this
+subject&mdash;all converge to form the belief that something of
+consciously unreal mingled with this act of apotheosis by Imperial
+decree. Hadrian sought to assuage his grief by paying his favourite
+illustrious honours after death; he also desired to give the memory
+of his own love the most congenial and poetical environment, to
+feed upon it in the daintiest places, and to deck it with the
+prettiest flowers of fancy. He therefore canonised Antinous, and
+took measures for disseminating his cult throughout the world,
+careless of the element of imposture <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg203" id="pg203">203</a></span> which might seem to mingle with
+the consecration of his true affection. Hadrian's superficial taste
+was not offended by the gimcrack quality of the new god; and
+Antinous was saved from being a merely pinchbeck saint by his own
+charming personality.</p>
+
+<p>This will not, however, wholly satisfy the conditions of the
+problem; and we are obliged to ask ourselves whether there was not
+something in the character of Antinous himself, something divinely
+inspired and irradiate with spiritual beauty, apparent to his
+fellows and remembered after his mysterious death, which justified
+his canonisation, and removed it from the region of Imperial
+makebelieve. If this was not the case, if Antinous died like a
+flower cropped from the seraglio garden of the court-pages, how
+should the Emperor in the first place have bewailed him with
+'unhusbanded passion,' and the people afterwards have received him
+as a god? May it not have been that he was a youth of more than
+ordinary promise, gifted with intellectual enthusiasms proportioned
+to his beauty and endowed with something of Phoebean inspiration,
+who, had he survived, might have even inaugurated a new age for the
+world, or have emulated the heroism of Hypatia in a hopeless cause?
+Was the link between him and Hadrian formed less by the boy's
+beauty than by his marvellous capacity for apprehending and his
+fitness for realising the Emperor's Greek dreams? Did the spirit of
+neo-Platonism find in him congenial incarnation? At any rate, was
+there not enough in the then current beliefs about the future of
+the soul, as abundantly set forth in Plutarch's writings, to
+justify a conviction that after death he had already passed into
+the lunar sphere, awaiting the final apotheosis of purged spirits
+in the sun? These questions may be asked&mdash;indeed, they must be
+asked&mdash;for, without suggesting them, we leave the worship of
+Antinous an almost <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg204" id=
+"pg204">204</a></span> inexplicable scandal, an almost
+unintelligible blot on human nature. Unless we ask them, we must be
+content to echo the coarse and violent diatribes of Clemens
+Alexandrinus against the vigils of the deified <i>exoletus</i>. But
+they cannot be answered, for antiquity is altogether silent about
+him; only here and there, in the indignant utterance of a Christian
+Father, stung to the quick by Pagan parallels between Antinous and
+Christ, do we catch a perverted echo of the popular emotion upon
+which his cult reposed, which recognised his godhood or his
+vicarious self-sacrifice, and which paid enduring tribute to the
+sublimity of his young life untimely quenched.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>senatus consultum</i> required for the apotheosis of an
+Emperor was not, so far as we know, obtained in the case of
+Antinous. Hadrian's determination to exalt his favourite sufficed;
+and this is perhaps one of the earliest instances of those informal
+deifications which became common in the later Roman period.
+Antinous was canonised according to Greek ritual and by Greek
+priests: <i>Gr&aelig;ci quidam volente Hadriano eum
+consecraverunt</i>. How this was accomplished we know not; but
+forms of canonisation must have been in common usage, seeing that
+emperors and members of the Imperial family received the honour in
+due course. The star which was supposed to have appeared soon after
+his death, and which represented his soul admitted to Olympus, was
+somewhere near the constellation Aquila, according to Ptolemy, but
+not part of it. I believe the letters
+&eta;.&theta;.&iota;.&kappa;.&lambda;. of Aquila now bear the name
+of Antinous; but this appropriation dates only from the time of
+Tycho Brahe. It was also asserted that as a new star had appeared
+in the skies, so a new flower had blossomed on the earth, at the
+moment of his death. This was the lotos, of a peculiar red colour,
+which the people of Lower Egypt used to wear in wreaths upon his
+festival. It received the name Antinoeian; and the Alexandrian
+sophist, Pancrates, seeking <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg205"
+id="pg205">205</a></span> to pay a double compliment to Hadrian and
+his favourite, wrote a poem in which he pretended that this lily
+was stained with the blood of a Libyan lion slain by the Emperor.
+As Arrian compared his master to Achilles, so Pancrates flattered
+him with allusions to Herakles. The lotos, it is well known, was a
+sacred flower in Egypt. Both as a symbol of the all-nourishing
+moisture of the earth and of the mystic marriage of Isis and
+Osiris, and also as an emblem of immortality, it appeared on all
+the sacred places of the Egyptians, especially on tombs and funeral
+utensils. To dignify Antinous with the lotos emblem was to
+consecrate him; to find a new species of the revered blossom and to
+wear it in his honour, calling it by his name, was to exalt him to
+the company of gods. Nothing, as it seems, had been omitted that
+could secure for him the patent of divinity.</p>
+
+<p>He met his death near the city Besa, an ancient Egyptian town
+upon the eastern bank of the Nile, almost opposite to Hermopolis.
+Besa was the name of a local god, who gave oracles and predicted
+future events. But of this Besa we know next to nothing. Hadrian
+determined to rebuild the city, change its name, and let his
+favourite take the place of the old deity. Accordingly, he raised a
+splendid new town in the Greek style; furnished it with temples,
+agora, hippodrome, gymnasium, and baths; filled it with Greek
+citizens; gave it a Greek constitution, and named it Antino&euml;.
+This new town, whether called Antino&euml;, Antinoopolis, Antinous,
+Antinoeia, or even Besantinous (for its titles varied), continued
+long to flourish, and was mentioned by Ammianus Marcellinus,
+together with Copton and Hermopolis, as one of the three most
+distinguished cities of the Theba&iuml;d. In the age of Julian
+these three cities were perhaps the only still thriving towns of
+Upper Egypt. It has even been maintained on Ptolemy's authority
+that Antino&euml; was the metropolis <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg206" id="pg206">206</a></span> of a nome, called Antinoeitis;
+but this is doubtful, since inscriptions discovered among the ruins
+of the town record no name of nomarch or strategus, while they
+prove the government to have consisted of a Boul&egrave; and a
+Prytaneus, who was also the Eponymous Magistrate. Strabo reckons
+it, together with Ptolemais and Alexandria, as governed after the
+Greek municipal system.</p>
+
+<p>In this city Antinous was worshipped as a god. Though a Greek
+god, and the eponym of a Greek city, he inherited the place and
+functions of an Egyptian deity, and was here represented in the
+hieratic style of Ptolemaic sculpture. A fine specimen of this
+statuary is preserved in the Vatican, showing how the neo-Hellenic
+sculptors had succeeded in maintaining the likeness of Antinous
+without sacrificing the traditional manner of Egyptian piety. The
+sacred emblems of Egyptian deities were added: we read, for
+instance, in one passage, that his shrine contained a boat. This
+boat, like the mystic egg of Er&ocirc;s or the cista of Dionysos,
+symbolised the embryo of cosmic life. It was specially appropriated
+to Osiris, and suggested collateral allusions doubtless to
+immortality and the soul's journey in another world. Antinous had a
+college of priests appointed to his service; and oracles were
+delivered from the cenotaph inside his temple. The people believed
+him to be a genius of warning, gracious to his suppliants, but
+terrible to evil-doers, combining the qualities of the avenging and
+protective deities. Annual games were celebrated in Antino&euml; on
+his festival, with chariot races and gymnastic contests; and the
+fashion of keeping his day seems, from Athen&aelig;us's testimony,
+to have spread through Egypt. An inscription in Greek characters
+discovered at Rome upon the Campus Martius entitles Antinous a
+colleague of the gods in Egypt&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Nu;&Omicron;&Omega;&Iota;
+&Sigma;&Upsilon;&Nu;&Theta;&Rho;&Omicron;&Nu;&Omega;&Iota;
+&Tau;&Omega;&Nu; &Epsilon;&Nu;
+&Alpha;&Iota;&Gamma;&Upsilon;&Eta;&Tau;&Omega;&Iota;
+&Theta;&Epsilon;&Omega;&Nu;.</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg207" id="pg207">207</a></span>
+The worship of Antinous spread rapidly through the Greek and Asian
+provinces, especially among the cities which owed debts of
+gratitude to Hadrian or expected from him future favours. At
+Athens, for example, the Emperor, attended perhaps by Antinous, had
+presided as Archon during his last royal progress, had built a
+suburb called after his name, and raised a splendid temple to
+Olympian Jove. The Athenians, therefore, founded games and a
+priesthood in honour of the new divinity. Even now, in the
+Dionysiac theatre, among the chairs above the orchestra assigned to
+priests of elder deities and more august tradition, may be found
+one bearing the name of
+Antinous&mdash;&Iota;&Epsilon;&Rho;&Epsilon;&Omega;&Sigma;
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Nu;&Omicron;&Omicron;&Upsilon;. A marble
+tablet has also been discovered inscribed with the names of
+agonothetai for the games celebrated in honour of Antinous; and a
+stele exists engraved with the crown of these contests together
+with the crowns of Severus, Commodus, and Antoninus. It appears
+that the games in honour of Antinous took place both at Eleusis and
+at Athens; and that the agonothetai, as also the priest of the new
+god, were chosen from the Ephebi. The Corinthians, the Argives, the
+Achaians, and the Epirots, as we know from coins issued by the
+priests of Antinous, adopted his cult;<a name="FNanchor_1_48" id=
+"FNanchor_1_48" /><a href="#Footnote_1_48" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> but the region of Greece proper where it
+flourished most was Arcadia, the mother state of his Bithynian
+birthplace. Pausanias, who lived contemporaneously with Antinous,
+and might have seen him, though he tells us that he had not chanced
+to meet the youth alive, mentions the temple of Antinous at
+Mantinea as the newest in that city. 'The Mantineans,' he says,
+'reckon Antinous among their gods.' He then describes the yearly
+festival and mysteries connected <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg208" id="pg208">208</a></span> with his cult, the quinquennial
+games established in his honour, and his statues. The gymnasium had
+a cell dedicated to Antinous, adorned with pictures and fair
+stone-work. The new god was in the habit of Dionysus.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_48" id="Footnote_1_48" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_48"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>For
+example:</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquotwide">
+&Omicron;&Sigma;&Tau;&Iota;&Lambda;&Iota;&Omicron;&Sigma;
+&Mu;&Alpha;&Rho;&Kappa;&Epsilon;&Lambda;&Lambda;&Omicron;&Sigma;&Omicron;
+&Iota;&Epsilon;&Rho;&Epsilon;&Upsilon;&Sigma;&Tau;&Omicron;&Upsilon;
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Omicron;&Omicron;&Upsilon;
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Epsilon;&Theta;&Eta;&Kappa;&Epsilon;
+&Tau;&Omicron;&Iota;&Sigma;
+&Alpha;&Chi;&Alpha;&Iota;&Omicron;&Iota;&Sigma; and a similar
+inscription for Corinth.</div>
+
+<p>As was natural, his birthplace paid him special observance.
+Coins dedicated by the province of Bithynia, as well as by the town
+Bithynium, are common, with the epigraphs,
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Omicron;&Omicron;&Upsilon; &Eta;
+&Pi;&Alpha;&Tau;&Rho;&Iota;&Sigma; and
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Nu;&Omicron;&Omicron;&Nu;
+&Theta;&Epsilon;&Omicron;&Nu; &Eta;
+&Pi;&Alpha;&Tau;&Rho;&Iota;&Sigma;. Among the cities of Asia Minor
+and the vicinity the new cult seems to have been widely spread.
+Adramyttene in Mysia, Alabanda, Ancyra in Galatia, Chalcedon, Cuma
+in &AElig;olis, Cyzicum in Mysia, the Ciani, the
+Hadrianotherit&aelig; of Bithynia, Hierapolis in Phrygia,
+Nicomedia, Philadelphia, Sardis, Smyrna, Tarsus, the Tianians of
+Paphlagonia, and a town Rhes&aelig;na in Mesopotamia, all furnish
+their quota of medals. On the majority of these medals he is
+entitled Her&ocirc;s, but on others he has the higher title of god;
+and he seems to have been associated in each place with some deity
+of local fame.</p>
+
+<p>Being essentially a Greek hero, or divinised man received into
+the company of immortals and worshipped with the attributes of god,
+his cult took firmer root among the neo-Hellenic provinces of the
+empire than in Italy. Yet there are signs that even in Italy he
+found his votaries. Among these may first be mentioned the
+comparative frequency of his name in Roman inscriptions, which have
+no immediate reference to him, but prove that parents gave it to
+their children. The discovery of his statues in various cities of
+the Roman Campagna shows that his cult was not confined to one or
+two localities. Naples in particular, which remained in all
+essential points a Greek city, seems to have received him with
+acclamation. A quarter of the town was called after his name, and a
+phratria of priests was founded in connection with his worship. The
+Neapolitans owed much to the patronage of Hadrian, and they repaid
+him <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg209" id="pg209">209</a></span>
+after this fashion. At the beginning of the last century Raffaello
+Fabretti discovered an inscription near the Porta S. Sebastiano at
+Rome, which throws some light on the matter. It records the name of
+a Roman knight, Sufenas, who had held the office of Lupercus and
+had been a fellow of the Neapolitan phratria of
+Antinous&mdash;<i>fretriaco Neapoli Antinoiton et Eunostidon</i>.
+Eunostos was a hero worshipped at Tanagra in Boeotia, where he had
+a sacred grove no female foot might enter; and the wording of the
+inscription leaves it doubtful whether the Eunostid&aelig; and
+Antinoit&aelig; of Naples were two separate colleges; or whether
+the heroes were associated as the common patrons of one
+brotherhood.</p>
+
+<p>A valuable inscription discovered in 1816 near the Baths at
+Lanuvium or Lavigna shows that Antinous was here associated with
+Diana as the saint of a benefit club. The rules of the
+confraternity prescribe the payments and other contributions of its
+members, provide for their assembling on the feast days of their
+patrons, fix certain fines, and regulate the ceremonies and
+expenses of their funerals. This club seems to have resembled
+modern burial societies, as known to us in England; or still more
+closely to have been formed upon the same model as Italian
+confraternit&egrave; of the Middle Ages. The Lex, or table of
+regulations, was drawn up in the year 133 A.D. It fixes the
+birthday of Antinous as v.k. Decembr., and alludes to the temple of
+Antinous&mdash;<i>Tetrastylo Antinoi</i>. Probably we cannot build
+much on the birthday as a genuine date, for the same table gives
+the birthday of Diana; and what was wanted was not accuracy in such
+matters, but a settled anniversary for banquets and pious
+celebrations. When we come to consider the divinity of Antinous, it
+will be of service to remember that at Lanuvium, together with
+Diana of the nether world, he was reckoned among the saints of
+sepulture. Could this thought have penetrated the imagination of
+his worshippers: that since <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg210"
+id="pg210">210</a></span> Antinous had given his life for his
+friend, since he had faced death and triumphed over it, winning
+immortality and godhood for himself by sacrifice, the souls of his
+votaries might be committed to his charge and guidance on their
+journey through the darkness of the tomb? Could we venture to infer
+thus much from his selection by a confraternity existing for the
+purpose of securing decent burial or pious funeral rites, the date
+of its formation, so soon after his death, would confirm the
+hypothesis that he was known to have devoted his life for
+Hadrian.</p>
+
+<p>While speaking of Antinous as a divinised man, adscript to the
+gods of Egypt, accepted as hero and as god in Hellas, Italy, and
+Asia Minor, we have not yet considered the nature of his deity. The
+question is not so simple as it seems at first sight: and the next
+step to take, with a view to its solution, is to consider the
+various forms under which he was adored&mdash;the phases of his
+divinity. The coins already mentioned, and the numerous works of
+glyptic art surviving in the galleries of Europe, will help us to
+place ourselves at the same point of view as the least enlightened
+of his antique votaries. Reasoning upon these data by the light of
+classic texts, may afterwards enable us to assign him his true
+place in the Pantheon of decadent and uninventive Paganism.</p>
+
+<p>In Egypt, as we have already seen, Antinous was worshipped by
+the neo-Hellenes of Antinoopolis as their Eponymous Hero; but he
+took the place of an elder native god, and was represented in art
+according to the traditions of Egyptian sculpture. The marble
+statue of the Vatican is devoid of hieratic emblems. Antinous is
+attired with the Egyptian head-dress and waistband: he holds a
+short truncheon firmly clasped in each hand; and by his side is a
+palm-stump, such as one often finds in statues of the Greek Hermes.
+Two colossal statues of red granite discovered in the ruins of
+Hadrian's villa, at Tivoli, represent him in like manner with the
+usual Egyptian <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg211" id=
+"pg211">211</a></span> head-dress. They seem to have been designed
+for pillars supporting the architrave of some huge portal; and the
+wands grasped firmly in both hands are supposed to be symbolical of
+the genii called Dii Averrunci. Von Levezow, in his monograph upon
+Antinous in art, catalogues five statues of a similar description
+to the three already mentioned. From the indistinct character of
+all of them, it would appear that Antinous was nowhere identified
+with any one of the great Egyptian deities, but was treated as a
+D&aelig;mon powerful to punish and protect. This designation
+corresponds to the contemptuous rebuke addressed by Origen to
+Celsus, where he argues that the new saint was only a malignant and
+vengeful spirit. His Egyptian medals are few and of questionable
+genuineness: the majority of them seem to be purely Hellenic; but
+on one he bears a crown like that of Isis, and on another a lotos
+wreath. The dim records of his cult in Egypt, and the remnants of
+Gr&aelig;co-Egyptian art, thus mark him out as one of the
+Averruncan deities, associated perhaps with Kneph or the
+Agathod&aelig;mon of Hellenic mythology, or approximated to Anubis,
+the Egyptian Hermes. Neither statues nor coins throw much light
+upon his precise place among those gods of Nile whose throne he is
+said to have ascended. Egyptian piety may not have been so
+accommodating as that of Hellas.</p>
+
+<p>With the Gr&aelig;co-Roman world the case is different. We
+obtain a clearer conception of the Antinous divinity, and recognise
+him always under the mask of youthful gods already honoured with
+fixed ritual. To worship even living men under the names and
+attributes of well-known deities was no new thing in Hellas. We may
+remember the Ithyphallic hymn with which the Athenians welcomed
+Demetrius Poliork&ecirc;tes, the marriage of Anthony as Dionysus to
+Athen&egrave;, and the deification of Mithridates as Bacchus. The
+Roman Emperors had already been represented in art with the
+characteristics <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg212" id=
+"pg212">212</a></span> of gods&mdash;Nero, for example, as Phoebus,
+and Hadrian as Mars. Such compliments were freely paid to Antinous.
+On the Achaian coins we find his portrait on the obverse, with
+different types of Hermes on the reverse, varied in one case by the
+figure of a ram, in another by the representation of a temple, in a
+third by a nude hero grasping a spear. One Mysian medal, bearing
+the epigraph 'Antinous Iacchus,' represents him crowned with ivy,
+and exhibits Demeter on the reverse. A single specimen from Ancyra,
+with the legend 'Antinous Her&ocirc;s,' depicts the god Lunus
+carrying a crescent moon upon his shoulder. The Bithynian coins
+generally give youthful portraits of Antinous upon the obverse,
+with the title of 'Her&ocirc;s' or 'Theos;' while the reverse is
+stamped with a pastoral figure, sometimes bearing the talaria,
+sometimes accompanied by a feeding ox or a boar or a star. This
+youth is supposed to be Philesius, the son of Hermes. In one
+specimen of the Bithynian series the reverse yields a head of
+Proserpine crowned with thorns. A coin of Chalcedon ornaments the
+reverse with a griffin seated near a naked figure. Another, from
+Corinth, bears the sun-god in a chariot; another, from Cuma,
+presents an armed Pallas. Bulls, with the crescent moon, occur in
+the Hadrianotheritan medals: a crescent moon in that of Hierapolis:
+a ram and star, a female head crowned with towers, a standing bull,
+and Harpocrates placing one finger on his lips, in those of
+Nicomedia; a horned moon and star in that of Epirot Nicopolis. One
+Philadelphian coin is distinguished by Antinous in a temple with
+four columns; another by an Aphrodite in her cella. The Sardian
+coins give Zeus with the thunderbolt, or Phoebus with the lyre;
+those of Smyrna are stamped with a standing ox, a ram, and the
+caduceus, a female panther and the thyrsus, or a hero reclining
+beneath a plane-tree; those of Tarsus with the Dionysian cista, the
+Phoebean tripod, the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg213" id=
+"pg213">213</a></span> river Cydnus, and the epigraphs 'Neos
+Puthios,' 'Neos Iacchos;' those of the Tianians with Antinous as
+Bacchus on a panther, or, in one case, as Poseid&ocirc;n.</p>
+
+<p>It would be unsafe to suppose that the emblems of the reverse in
+each case had a necessary relation to Antinous, whose portrait is
+almost invariably represented on the obverse. They may refer, as in
+the case of the Tarsian river-god, to the locality in which the
+medal was struck. Yet the frequent occurrence of the well-known
+type with the attributes and sacred animals of various deities, and
+the epigraphs 'Neos Puthios' or 'Neos Iacchos,' justify us in
+assuming that he was associated with divinities in vogue among the
+people who accepted his cult&mdash;especially Apollo, Dionysus, and
+Hermes. On more than one coin he is described as Antinous-Pan,
+showing that his Arcadian compatriots of Peloponnese and Bithynia
+paid him the compliment of placing him beside their great local
+deity. In a Latin inscription discovered at Tibur, he is connected
+with the sun-god of Noricia, Pannonia and Illyria, who was
+worshipped under the title of Belenus:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">Antinoo et Beleno par &aelig;tas famaque par
+est;</div>
+
+<div class="i3">Cur non Antinous sit quoque qui Belenus?8261</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This couplet sufficiently explains the ground of his adscription
+to the society of gods distinguished for their beauty. Both Belenus
+and Antinous are young and beautiful: why, therefore, should not
+Antinous be honoured equally with Belenus? The same reasoning would
+apply to all his impersonations. The pious imagination or the
+&aelig;sthetic taste tricked out this favourite of fortune in
+masquerade costumes, just as a wealthy lover may amuse himself by
+dressing his mistress after the similitude of famous beauties. The
+analogy of statues confirms this assumption. A considerable
+majority represent him as Dionysus Kisseus: in some of the best he
+is conceived as Hermes of the Pal&aelig;stra or a simple hero: in
+one he is probably <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg214" id=
+"pg214">214</a></span> Dionysus Antheus; in another Vertumnus or
+Arist&aelig;us; yet again he is the Agathos Daimon: while a fine
+specimen preserved in England shows him as Ganymede raising a
+goblet of wine: a little statue in the Louvre gives him the
+attributes of youthful Herakles; a basrelief of somewhat doubtful
+genuineness in the Villa Albani exhibits him with Romanised
+features in the character perhaps of Castor. Again, I am not sure
+whether the Endymion in the celebrated basrelief of the Capitol
+does not yield a portrait of Antinous.</p>
+
+<p>This rapid enumeration will suffice to show that Antinous was
+universally conceived as a young deity in bloom, and that
+preference was given to Phoebus and Iacchus, the gods of divination
+and enthusiasm, for his associates. In some cases he appears to
+have been represented as a simple hero without the attributes of
+any deity. Many of his busts, and the fine nude statues of the
+Capitol and the Neapolitan Museum, belong to this class, unless we
+recognise the two last as Antinous under the form of a young
+Hercules, or of the gymnastic Hermes. But when he comes before us
+with the title of Puthios, or with the attributes of Dionysus,
+distinct reference is probably intended in the one case to his
+oracular quality, in the other to the enthusiasm which led to his
+death. Allusions to Harpocrates, Lunus, Arist&aelig;us, Philesius,
+Vertumnus, Castor, Herakles, Ganymedes, show how the divinising
+fancy played around the beauty of his youth, and sought to connect
+him with myths already honoured in the pious conscience. Lastly,
+though it would be hazardous to strain this point, we find in his
+chief impersonations a Chthonian character, a touch of the mystery
+that is shrouded in the world beyond the grave. The double nature
+of his Athenian cult may perhaps confirm this view. But, over and
+above all these symbolic illustrations, one artistic motive of
+immortal loveliness pervades and animates the series.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg215" id="pg215">215</a></span>
+It becomes at this point of some moment to determine what was the
+relation of Antinous to the gods with whom he blended, and whose
+attributes he shared. It seems tolerably certain that he had no
+special legend which could be idealised in art. The mythopoeic
+fancy invented no fable for him. His cult was parasitic upon elder
+cults. He was the colleague of greater well-established deities,
+from whom he borrowed a pale and evanescent lustre. Speaking
+accurately, he was a hero or divinised mortal, on the same grade as
+Helen immortalised for her beauty, as Achilles for his prowess, or
+as Herakles for his great deeds. But having no poet like Homer to
+sing his achievements, no myth fertile in emblems, he dwelt beneath
+the shadow of superior powers, and crept into a place with them.
+What was this place worth? What was the meaning attached by his
+votaries to the title
+&sigma;&#973;&nu;&theta;&rho;&omicron;&nu;&omicron;&sigmaf; or
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&theta;&epsilon;&#972;&sigmaf;? According to the simple meaning of
+both epithets, he occupied a seat together with or by the side of
+the genuine Olympians. In this sense Pindar called Dionysus the
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf; of Demeter,
+because the younger god had been admitted to her worship on equal
+terms at Eleusis. In this sense Sophocles spoke of Himeros as
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf; of the
+eternal laws, and of Justice as
+&sigma;&#973;&nu;&omicron;&iota;&kappa;&omicron;&sigmaf; with the
+Chthonian deities. In this sense Euripides makes Helen
+&zeta;&#973;&nu;&theta;&alpha;&kappa;&omicron;&sigmaf; her
+brethren, the Dioscuri. In this sense the three chief Archons at
+Athens were said to have two
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&iota; apiece. In this
+sense, again, Heph&aelig;stion was named a
+&theta;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&pi;&alpha;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;, and
+Alexander in his lifetime was voted a thirteenth in the company of
+the twelve Olympians. The divinised emperors were
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&iota; or
+&sigma;&#973;&nu;&theta;&rho;&omicron;&nu;&omicron;&iota; nor did
+Virgil hesitate to flatter Augustus by questioning into which
+college of the immortals he would be adscript after
+death&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">Tuque adeo, quem mox qu&aelig; sint habitura
+deorum</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Concilia, incertum est.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg216" id="pg216">216</a></span>
+Conscript deities of this heroic order were supposed to avert evils
+from their votaries, to pursue offenders with calamity, to inspire
+prophetic dreams, and to appear, as the phantom of Achilles
+appeared to Apollonius of Tyana, and answer questions put to them.
+They corresponded very closely and exactly to the saints of
+medi&aelig;valism, acting as patrons of cities, confraternities,
+and persons, and interposing between the supreme powers of heaven
+and their especial devotees. As a
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf; of this
+exalted quality, Antinous was the associate of Phoebus, Bacchus,
+and Hermes among the Olympians, and a colleague with the gods of
+Nile. The principal difficulty of grasping his true rank consists
+in the variety of his emblems and divine disguises.</p>
+
+<p>It must here be mentioned that the epithet
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf; had a
+secondary and inferior signification. It was applied by later
+authors to the demons or familiar spirits who attended upon
+enchanters like Simon Magus or Apollonius; and such satellites were
+believed to be supplied by the souls of innocent young persons
+violently slain. Whether this secondary meaning of the title
+indicates a degeneration of the other, and forms the first step of
+the process whereby classic heroes were degraded into the foul
+fiends of medi&aelig;val fancy, or whether we find in it a wholly
+new application of the word, is questionable. I am inclined to
+believe that, while
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&theta;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf; in the one case means an associate
+of the Olympian gods,
+&pi;&#940;&omicron;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&delta;&alpha;&#943;&mu;&omega;&nu; in the other means a
+fellow-agent and assessor of the wizard. In other words, however
+they may afterwards have been confounded, the two uses of the same
+epithet were originally distinct: so that not every
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&theta;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf;, Achilles, or Heph&aelig;stion or
+Antinous, was supposed to haunt and serve a sorcerer, but only some
+inferior spirit over whom his black art gave him authority. The
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&theta;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf; was so called because he sat with
+the great gods. The
+&pi;&#940;&rho;&epsilon;&delta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&delta;&alpha;&#943;&mu;&omicron;&nu; was so <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg217" id="pg217">217</a></span> called because
+he sat beside the magician. At the same time there seems sufficient
+evidence that the two meanings came to be confounded; and as the
+divinities of Hellas, with all their lustrous train, paled before
+the growing splendour of Christ, they gradually fell beneath the
+necromantic ferule of the witch.</p>
+
+<p>Returning from this excursion, and determining that Antinous was
+a hero or divinised mortal, adscript to the college of the greater
+gods, and invested with many of their attributes, we may next ask
+the question, why this artificial cult, due in the first place to
+imperial passion and caprice, and nourished by the adulation of
+fawning provinces, was preserved from the rapid dissolution to
+which the flimsy products of court-flattery are subject. The
+mythopoetic faculty was extinct, or in its last phase of decadent
+vitality. There was nothing in the life of Antinous to create a
+legend or to stimulate the sense of awe; and yet this worship
+persisted long after the fear of Hadrian had passed away, long
+after the benefits to be derived by humouring a royal fancy had
+been exhausted, long after anything could be gained by playing out
+the farce. It is clear, from a passage in Clemens Alexandrinus,
+that the sacred nights of Antinous were observed, at least a
+century after the date of his deification, with an enthusiasm that
+roused the anger of the Christian Father. Again, it is worthy of
+notice that, while many of the noblest works of antiquity have
+perished, the statues of Antinous have descended to us in fair
+preservation and in very large numbers. From the contemptuous
+destruction which erased the monuments of base men in the Roman
+Empire they were safe; and the state in which we have them shows
+how little they had suffered from neglect. The most rational
+conclusion seems to be that Antinous became in truth a popular
+saint, and satisfied some new need in Paganism, for which none of
+the elder and more respectable deities sufficed. The novelty of his
+cult had, no doubt, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg218" id=
+"pg218">218</a></span> something to do with the fascination it
+exercised; and something may be attributed to the impulse art
+received from the introduction of so rare and original a type of
+beauty into the exhausted cycle of mythical subjects. The blending
+of Greek and Egyptian elements was also attractive to an age
+remarkable for its eclecticism. But after allowing for the many
+adventitious circumstances which concurred to make Antinous the
+fashion, it is hardly unreasonable to assume that the spirit of
+poetry in the youth's story, the rumour of his self-devoted death,
+kept him alive in the memory of the people. It is just that element
+of romance in the tale of his last hours, that preservative
+association with the pathos of self-sacrifice, which forms the
+interest we still feel for him.</p>
+
+<p>The deified Antinous was therefore for the Roman world a
+charming but dimly felt and undeveloped personality, made perfect
+by withdrawal into an unseen world of mystery. The belief in the
+value of vicarious suffering attached itself to his beautiful and
+melancholy form. His sorrow borrowed something of the universal
+world-pain, more pathetic than the hero-pangs of Herakles, the
+anguish of Prometheus, or the passion of Iacchus-Zagreus, because
+more personal and less suggestive of a cosmic mystery. The ancient
+cries of Ah Linus, Ah Adonis, found in him an echo. For votaries
+ready to accept a new god as simply as we accept a new poet, he was
+the final manifestation of an old-world mystery, the rejuvenescence
+of a well-known incarnation, the semi-Oriental realisation of a
+recurring Avatar. And if we may venture on so bold a surmise, this
+last flower of antique mythology had taken up into itself a portion
+of the blood outpoured on Calvary. Planted in the conservatory of
+semi-philosophical yearnings, faintly tinctured with the colours of
+misapprehended Christianity, without inherent stamina, without the
+powerful nutrition which the earlier heroic fables had derived from
+the spiritual vigour <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg219" id=
+"pg219">219</a></span> of a truly mythopoeic age, the cult of
+Antinous subsisted as an echo, a reflection, the last serious
+effort of deifying but no longer potent Paganism, the last
+reverberation of its oracles, an &aelig;sthetic rather than a
+religious product, viewed even in its origin with sarcasm by the
+educated, and yet sufficiently attractive to enthral the minds of
+simple votaries, and to survive the circumstances of its first
+creation. It may be remembered that the century which witnessed the
+canonisation of Antinous, produced the myth of Cupid and
+Psyche&mdash;or, if this be too sweeping an assertion, gave it
+final form, and handed it, in its suggestive beauty, to the modern
+world. Thus at one and the same moment the dying spirit of Hellas
+seized upon those doctrines of self-devotion and immortality which,
+through the triumph of Christian teaching, were gaining novel and
+incalculable value for the world. According to its own laws of
+inspiration, it stamped both legends of Love victorious over Death,
+with beautiful form in myth and poem and statuary.</p>
+
+<p>That we are not altogether unjustified in drawing this
+conclusion may be gathered from the attitude assumed by the
+Christian apologists toward Antinous. There is more than the mere
+hatred of a Pagan hero, more than the bare indignation at a public
+scandal, in their acrimony. Accepting the calumnious insinuations
+of Dion Cassius, these gladiators of the new faith found a terrible
+rhetorical weapon ready to their hands in the canonisation of a
+court favourite. Prudentius, Clemens Alexandrinus, Tertullian,
+Eusebius, Justin Martyr, Athanasius, Tatian&mdash;all inveigh, in
+nearly the same terms, against the Emperor's Ganymede, exalted to
+the skies, and worshipped with base fear and adulation by abject
+slaves. But in Origen, arguing with Celsus, we find a somewhat
+different keynote struck. Celsus, it appears, had told the story of
+Antinous, and had compared his cult with that of Christ. Origen
+replies justly, that there <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg220"
+id="pg220">220</a></span> was nothing in common between the lives
+of Antinous and of Christ, and that his supposed divinity is a
+fiction. We can discern in this response an echo of the faith which
+endeared Antinous to his Pagan votaries. Antinous was hated by the
+Christians as a rival; insignificant, it is true, and unworthy, but
+still of sufficient force to be regarded and persecuted. If
+Antinous had been utterly contemptible, if he had not gained some
+firm hold upon the piety of Gr&aelig;co-Roman Paganism, Celsus
+could hardly have ventured to rest an argument upon his worship,
+nor would Origen have chosen to traverse that argument with solid
+reasoning, instead of passing it by in rhetorical silence. Nothing
+is more difficult than to understand the conditions of that age or
+to sympathise with its dominant passions. Educated as we have been
+in the traditions of the finally triumphant Christian faith, warmed
+through and through as we are by its summer glow and autumn
+splendour, believing as we do in the adequacy of its spirit to
+satisfy the cravings of the human heart, how can we comprehend a
+moment in its growth when the divinised Antinous was not merely an
+object offensive to the moral sense, but also a parody dangerous to
+the pure form of Christ?</p>
+
+<p>It remains to say somewhat of Antinous as he appears in art. His
+place in classic sculpture corresponds to his position in antique
+mythology. The Antinous statues and coins are reflections of
+earlier artistic masterpieces, executed with admirable skill, but
+lacking original faculty for idealisation in the artists. Yet there
+is so much personal attraction in his type, his statues are so
+manifestly faithful portraits, and we find so great a charm of
+novelty in his delicately perfect individuality, that the
+life-romance which they reveal, as through a veil of mystery, has
+force enough to make them rank among the valuable heirlooms of
+antiquity. We could almost believe that, while so many gods and
+heroes of Greece have perished, <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg221" id="pg221">221</a></span> Antinous has been preserved in
+all his forms and phases for his own most lovely sake; as though,
+according to Ghiberti's exquisite suggestion, gentle souls in the
+first centuries of Christianity had spared this blameless youth,
+and hidden him away with tender hands, in quiet places, from the
+fury of iconoclasts. Nor is it impossible that the great vogue of
+his worship was due among the Pagan laity to this same fascination
+of pure beauty. Could a more graceful temple of the body have been
+fashioned, after the Platonic theory, for the habitation of a
+guileless, god-inspired, enthusiastic soul? The personality of
+Antinous, combined with the suggestion of his self-devoted death,
+made him triumphant in art as in the affections of the pious.</p>
+
+<p>It would be an interesting task to compose a <i>catalogue
+raisonn&eacute;</i> of Antinous statues and basreliefs, and to
+discuss the question of their mythological references. This is,
+however, not the place for such an inquiry. And yet I cannot quit
+Antinous without some retrospect upon the most important of his
+portraits. Among the simple busts, by far the finest, to my
+thinking, are the colossal head of the Louvre, and the ivy-crowned
+bronze at Naples. The latter is not only flawless in its execution,
+but is animated with a pensive beauty of expression. The former,
+though praised by Winckelmann, as among the two or three most
+precious masterpieces of antique art, must be criticised for a
+certain vacancy and lifelessness. Of the heroic statues, the two
+noblest are those of the Capitol and Naples. The identity of the
+Capitoline Antinous has only once, I think, been seriously
+questioned; and yet it may be reckoned more than doubtful. The head
+is almost certainly not his. How it came to be placed upon a body
+presenting so much resemblance to the type of Antinous I do not
+know. Careful comparison of the torso and the arms with an
+indubitable portrait will even raise the question whether this fine
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg222" id="pg222">222</a></span>
+statue is not a Hermes or a hero of an earlier age. Its attitude
+suggests Narcissus or Adonis; and under either of these forms
+Antinous may properly have been idealised. The Neapolitan marble,
+on the contrary, yields the actual Antinous in all the exuberant
+fulness of his beauty. Head, body, pose, alike bring him vividly
+before us, forming an undoubtedly authentic portrait. The same
+personality, idealised, it is true, but rather suffering than
+gaining by the process, is powerfully impressed upon the colossal
+Dionysus of the Vatican. What distinguishes this great work is the
+inbreathed spirit of divinity, more overpowering here than in any
+other of the extant
+&alpha;&nu;&delta;&rho;&iota;&#940;&nu;&tau;&epsilon;&sigmaf;
+&kappa;&alpha;&iota;
+&alpha;&gamma;&#940;&lambda;&mu;&alpha;&tau;&alpha; The basrelief
+of the Villa Albani, restored to suit the conception of a
+Vertumnus, has even more of florid beauty; but whether the
+restoration was wisely made may be doubted. It is curious to
+compare this celebrated masterpiece of technical dexterity with
+another basrelief in the Villa Albani, representing Antinous as
+Castor. He is standing, half clothed with the chlamys, by a horse.
+His hair is close-cropped, after the Roman fashion, cut straight
+above the forehead, but crowned with a fillet of lotos-buds. The
+whole face has a somewhat stern and frowning Roman look of
+resolution, contrasting with the mild benignity of the Bacchus
+statues, and the almost sulky voluptuousness of the busts. In the
+Lateran Museum Antinous appears as a god of flowers, holding in his
+lap a multitude of blossoms, and wearing on his head a wreath. The
+conception of this statue provokes comparison with the Flora of the
+Neapolitan Museum. I should like to recognise in it a Dionysus
+Antheus, rather than one of the more prosy Roman gods of
+horticulture. Not unworthy to rank with these first-rate portraits
+of Antinous is a Ganymede, engraved by the Dilettante Society,
+which represents him standing alert, in one hand holding the
+wine-jug and in the other lifting a cup aloft. It will be seen from
+even this brief enumeration of a <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg223" id="pg223">223</a></span> few among the statues of
+Antinous, how many and how various they are. One, however, remains
+still to be discussed, which, so far as concerns the story of
+Antinous, is by far the most interesting of all. As a work of art,
+to judge by photographs, it is inferior to others in execution and
+design. Yet could we but understand its meaning clearly, the
+mystery of Antinous would be solved: the key to the whole matter
+probably lies here; but, alas! we know not how to use it. I speak
+of the Ildefonso Group at Madrid.<a name="FNanchor_1_49" id=
+"FNanchor_1_49" /><a href="#Footnote_1_49" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_49" id="Footnote_1_49" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_49"><span class="label">[1]</span></a><a href=
+"images/ildefonso.jpg">See Frontispiece.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>On one pedestal there are three figures in white marble. To the
+extreme right of the spectator stands a little female statue of a
+goddess, in archaistic style, crowned with the calathos, and
+holding a sphere, probably of pomegranate fruit, to her breast. To
+the left of this image are two young men, three times the height of
+the goddess, quite naked, standing one on each side of a low altar.
+Both are crowned with a wreath of leaves and berries&mdash;laurel
+or myrtle. The youth to the right, next the image, holds a torch in
+either hand: with the right he turns the flaming point downwards,
+till it lies upon the altar; with the left he lifts the other torch
+aloft, and rests it on his shoulder. He has a beautiful
+Gr&aelig;co-Roman face, touched with sadness or ineffable
+reflection. The second youth leans against his comrade, resting his
+left arm across the other's back, and this hand is lightly placed
+upon the shoulder, close to the lifted torch. His right arm is
+bent, and so placed that the hand just cuts the line of the pelvis
+a little above the hip. The weight of his body is thrown
+principally upon the right leg; the left foot is drawn back, away
+from the altar. It is the attitude of the Apollo Sauroctonos. His
+beautiful face, bent downward, is intently gazing with a calm,
+collected, serious, and yet sad cast of earnest meditation. His
+eyes seem fixed on something beyond him and beneath <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg224" id="pg224">224</a></span> him&mdash;as it
+were on an inscrutable abyss; and in this direction also looks his
+companion. The face is unmistakably the face of Antinous; yet the
+figure, and especially the legs, are not characteristic. They seem
+modelled after the conventional type of the Greek Ephebus. Parts of
+the two torches and the lower half of the right arm of Antinous are
+restorations.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the Ildefonso marble; and it may be said that its
+execution is hard and rough&mdash;the arms of both figures are
+carelessly designed; the hands and fingers are especially angular,
+elongated, and ill-formed. But there is a noble feeling in the
+whole group, notwithstanding. F. Tieck, the sculptor and brother of
+the poet, was the first to suggest that we have here Antinous, the
+Genius of Hadrian, and Persephone.<a name="FNanchor_1_50" id=
+"FNanchor_1_50" /><a href="#Footnote_1_50" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> He also thought that the self-immolation of
+Antinous was indicated by the loving, leaning attitude of the
+younger man, and by his melancholy look of resolution. The same
+view, in all substantial points, is taken by Friedrichs, author of
+a work on Gr&aelig;co-Roman sculpture. But Friedrichs, while
+admitting the identity of the younger figure with Antinous, and
+recognising Persephone in the archaic image, is not prepared to
+accept the elder as the Genius of Hadrian; and it must be confessed
+that this face does not bear any resemblance to the portraits of
+the Emperor. According to his interpretation, the D&aelig;mon is
+kindling the fire upon the sacrificial altar with the depressed
+torch; and the second or lifted torch must be supposed to have been
+needed for the performance of some obscure rite of immolation. What
+Friedrichs fails to elucidate is the trustful attitude of Antinous,
+who could scarcely have been conceived as thus affectionately <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg225" id="pg225">225</a></span> reclining
+on the shoulder of a merely sacrificial d&aelig;mon; nor is there
+anything upon the altar to kindle. It must, however, be conceded
+that the imperfection of the marble at this point leaves the
+restoration of the altar and the torch upon it doubtful.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_50" id="Footnote_1_50" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_50"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> See the
+article on Antinous, by Victor Rydberg, in the <i>Svensk Tidskrift
+f&ouml;r Litteratur, Politik, och Ekonomi</i>. 1875, Stockholm.
+Also Karl B&ouml;tticher, <i>K&ouml;nigliches Museum,
+Erkl&auml;rendes Verzeichniss</i>. Berlin, 1871.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Charles B&ouml;tticher started a new solution of the principal
+problem. According to him, it was executed in the lifetime of
+Antinous; and it represents not a sacrifice of death, but a
+sacrifice of fidelity on the part of the two friends, Hadrian and
+Antinous, who have met together before Persephone to ratify a vow
+of love till death. He suggests that the wreaths are of
+stephanotis, that large-leaved myrtle, which was sacred to the
+Chthonian goddesses after the liberation of Semele from Hades by
+her son Dionysus. With reference to such ceremonies between Greek
+comrades, B&ouml;tticher cites a vase upon which Theseus and
+Peirithous are sacrificing in the temple of Persephone; and he
+assumes that there may have existed Athenian groups in marble
+representing similar vows of friendship, from which Hadrian had
+this marble copied. He believes that the Genius of Hadrian is
+kindling one torch at the sacred fire, which he will reach to
+Antinous, while he holds the other in readiness to kindle for
+himself. This explanation is both ingenious and beautiful. It has
+also the great merit of explaining the action of the right arm of
+Antinous. Yet it is hardly satisfactory. It throws no light upon
+the melancholy and solemnity of both figures, which irresistibly
+suggest a funereal rather than a joyous rite. Antinous is not even
+looking at the altar, and the meditative curves of his beautiful
+reclining form indicate anything rather than the spirited alacrity
+with which a friend would respond to his comrade's call at such a
+moment. Besides, why should not the likeness of Hadrian have been
+preserved as well as that of Antinous, if the group commemorated an
+act of their joint <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg226" id=
+"pg226">226</a></span> will? On the other hand, we must admit that
+the altar itself is not dressed for a funereal sacrifice.</p>
+
+<p>It has been pointed out that in the British Museum there exists
+a basrelief of Homer's apotheosis where we notice a figure holding
+two torches. Is it, then, possible that the Ildefonso marble may
+express, not the sacrifice, but the apotheosis of Antinous, and
+that the Genius who holds the two torches is conferring on him
+immortality? The lifted torch would symbolise his new life, and the
+depressed torch would stand for the life he had devoted. According
+to this explanation, the sorrowful expression of Antinous must
+indicate the agony of death through which he passed into the
+company of the undying. Against this interpretation is the fact
+that we have no precise authority for the symbolism of the torches,
+except only the common inversion of the life-brand by the Genius of
+Death.</p>
+
+<p>Yet another solution may be suggested. Assuming that we have
+before us a sacrificial ceremony, and that the group was executed
+after the self-devotion of Antinous had passed into the popular
+belief, we may regard the elder youth as either the Genius of the
+Emperor, separate in spirit from Hadrian himself and presiding over
+his destinies, who accepts the offer of Antinous with solemn
+calmness suited to so great a gift; or else as the Genius of the
+Roman people, witnessing the same act in the same majestic spirit.
+This view finds some support in the abstract ideality of the
+torch-bearer, who is clearly no historical personage as Antinous
+himself is, but rather a power controlling his fate. The
+interpretation of the two torches remains very difficult. In the
+torch flung down upon the flameless and barren altar we might
+recognise a symbol of Hadrian's life upon the point of extinction,
+but not yet extinguished; and in the torch lifted aloft we might
+find a metaphor of life resuscitated and exalted. Nor is it <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg227" id="pg227">227</a></span> perhaps
+without significance that the arm of the self-immolating youth
+meets the upraised torch, as though to touch the life which he will
+purchase with his death. There is, however, the objection stated
+above to this bold use of symbolism.</p>
+
+<p>In support of any explanation which ascribes this group to a
+period later than the canonisation of Antinous, it may be repeated
+that the execution is inferior to that of almost all the other
+statues of the hero. Is it possible, then, that it belongs to a
+subsequent date, when art was further on the wane, but when the
+self-devotion of Antinous had become a dogma of his cult?</p>
+
+<p>After all is said, the Ildefonso marble, like the legend of
+Antinous, remains a mystery. Only hypotheses, more or less
+ingenious, more or less suited to our sympathies, varying between
+Casaubon's coarse vilification and Rydberg's roseate vision, are
+left us.</p>
+
+<p>As a last note on the subject of Antinous let me refer to
+Raphael's statue of Jonah in the Chigi Chapel of S. Maria del
+Popolo at Rome. Raphael, who handled the myth of Cupid and Psyche
+so magnificently in the Villa Farnesina of his patron Agostino
+Chigi, dedicated a statue of Antinous&mdash;the only statue he ever
+executed in marble&mdash;under the title of a Hebrew prophet in a
+Christian sanctuary. The fact is no less significant than strange.
+During the early centuries of Christianity, as is amply proved by
+the sarcophagi in the Lateran Museum, Jonah symbolised
+self-sacrifice and immortality. He was a type of Christ, an emblem
+of the Christian's hope beyond the grave. During those same
+centuries Antinous represented the same ideas, however
+inadequately, however dimly, for the unlettered laity of Paganism.
+It could scarcely have been by accident, or by mere admiration for
+the features of Antinous, that Raphael, in his marble, blent the
+Christian <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg228" id=
+"pg228">228</a></span> and the Pagan traditions. To unify and to
+transcend the double views of Christianity and Paganism in a work
+of pure art was Raphael's instinctive, if not his conscious, aim.
+Nor is there a more striking instance of this purpose than the
+youthful Jonah with the head of Hadrian's favourite. Leonardo's
+Dionysus-John-the-Baptist seems but a careless <i>jeu d'esprit</i>
+compared with this profound and studied symbol of renascent
+humanism. Thus to regard the Jonah-Antinous of the Cappella Chigi
+as a type of immortality and self-devotion, fusing Christian and
+Gr&aelig;co-Roman symbolism in one work of modern art, is the most
+natural interpretation; but it would not be impossible to trace in
+it a metaphor of the resurgent Pagan spirit also&mdash;as though,
+leaving Jonah and his Biblical associations in the background, the
+artist had determined that from the mouth of the monstrous grave
+should issue not a bearded prophet, but the victorious youth who
+had captivated with his beauty and his heroism the sunset age of
+the classic world. At any rate, whatever may have been Raphael's
+intention, the legend of Antinous, that last creation of antique
+mythology, shines upon us in this marble, just as the tale of Hero
+and Leander, that last blossom of antique literature, flowers
+afresh in the verses of our Marlowe. It would appear as though the
+Renaissance poets, hastening to meet the classic world with arms of
+welcome, had embraced its latest saints, as nearest to them, in the
+rapture of their first enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p>Over all these questions, over all that concerns Antinous, there
+rests a cloud of darkness and impenetrable doubt. To pierce that
+cloud is now impossible. The utmost we can do is to indulge our
+fancy in dreams of greater or less probability, and to mark out
+clearly the limitations of the subject. It is indeed something to
+have shown that the stigma of slavery and disgrace attaching to his
+name has no solid historical justification, and something to have
+suggested plausible reasons <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg229"
+id="pg229">229</a></span> for conjecturing that his worship had a
+genuine spiritual basis. Yet the sincere critic, at the end of the
+whole inquiry, will confess that he has only cast a plummet into
+the unfathomable sea of ignorance. What remains, immortal,
+indestructible, victorious, is Antinous in art. Against the gloomy
+background of doubt, calumny, contention, terrible surmise, his
+statues are illuminated with the dying glory of the classic
+genius&mdash;even as the towers and domes of a marble city shine
+forth from the purple banks of a thunder-cloud in sunset light.
+Here and here only does reality emerge from the chaos of
+conflicting phantoms. Front to front with them, it is allowed us to
+forget all else but the beauty of one who died young because the
+gods loved him. But when we question those wonderful mute features
+and beg them for their secret, they return no answer. There is not
+even a smile upon the parted lips. So profound is the mystery, so
+insoluble the enigma, that from its most importunate interrogation
+we derive nothing but an attitude of deeper reverence. This in
+itself, however, is worth the pains of study.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_51" id="FNanchor_1_51" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_51" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_51" id="Footnote_1_51" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_51"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> I must
+here express my indebtedness to my friend H.F. Brown for a large
+portion of the materials used by me in this essay on Antinous,
+which I had no means at Davos Platz of accumulating for myself, and
+which he unearthed from the libraries of Florence in the course of
+his own work, and generously placed at my disposal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg230" id=
+"pg230">230</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="WANDERINGS" id="WANDERINGS" /><i>SPRING
+WANDERINGS</i></h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">Ana-Capri</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The storm-clouds at this season, though it is the bloom of May,
+are daily piled in sulky or menacing masses over Vesuvius and the
+Abruzzi, frothing out their curls of moulded mist across the bay,
+and climbing the heavens with toppling castle towers and domes of
+alabaster.</p>
+
+<p>We made the most of a tranquil afternoon, when there was an
+armistice of storm, to climb the bluff of Mount Solaro. A ruined
+fort caps that limestone bulwark; and there we lay together,
+drinking the influences of sea, sun, and wind. Immeasurably deep
+beneath us plunged the precipices, deep, deep descending to a bay
+where fisher boats were rocking, diminished to a scale that made
+the fishermen in them invisible. Low down above the waters wheeled
+white gulls, and higher up the hawks and ospreys of the cliff
+sailed out of sunlight into shadow. Immitigable strength is in the
+moulding of this limestone, and sharp, clear definiteness marks yon
+clothing of scant brushwood where the fearless goats are browsing.
+The sublime of sculpturesque in crag structure is here, refined and
+modulated by the sweetness of sea distances. For the air came pure
+and yielding to us over the unfooted sea; and at the basement of
+those fortress-cliffs the sea was dreaming in its caves; and far
+away, to east and south and west, soft light was blent with mist
+upon the surface of the shimmering waters.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg231" id="pg231">231</a></span>
+The distinction between prospects viewed from a mountain
+overlooking a great plain, or viewed from heights that, like this,
+dominate the sea, principally lies in this: that while the former
+only offer cloud shadows cast upon the fields below our feet, in
+the latter these shadows are diversified with cloud reflections.
+This gives superiority in qualities of colour, variety of tone, and
+luminous effect to the sea, compensating in some measure for the
+lack of those associations which render the outlook over a wide
+extent of populated land so thrilling. The emergence of towered
+cities into sunlight at the skirts of moving shadows, the liquid
+lapse of rivers half disclosed by windings among woods, the
+upturned mirrors of unruffled lakes, are wanting to the sea. For
+such episodes the white sails of vessels, with all their
+wistfulness of going to and fro on the mysterious deep, are but a
+poor exchange. Yet the sea-lover may justify his preference by
+appealing to the beauty of empurpled shadows, toned by amethyst or
+opal, or shining with violet light, reflected from the clouds that
+cross and find in those dark shields a mirror. There are
+suggestions, too, of immensity, of liberty, of action, presented by
+the boundless horizons and the changeful changeless tracts of ocean
+which no plain possesses.</p>
+
+<p>It was nigh upon sunset when we descended to Ana-Capri. That
+evening the clouds assembled suddenly. The armistice of storm was
+broken. They were terribly blue, and the sea grew dark as steel
+beneath them, till the moment when the sun's lip reached the last
+edge of the waters. Then a courier of rosy flame sent forth from
+him passed swift across the gulf, touching, where it trod, the
+waves with accidental fire. The messenger reached Naples; and in a
+moment, as by some diabolical illumination, the sinful city kindled
+into light like glowing charcoal. From Posilippo on the left, along
+the palaces of the Chiaja, up to S. Elmo on the hill, past Santa
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg232" id="pg232">232</a></span>
+Lucia, down on the Marinella, beyond Portici, beyond Torre del
+Greco, where Vesuvius towered up aloof, an angry mount of
+amethystine gloom, the conflagration spread and reached Pompeii,
+and dwelt on Torre dell' Annunziata. Stationary, lurid, it
+smouldered while the day died slowly. The long, densely populated
+sea-line from Pozzuoli to Castellammare burned and smoked with
+intensest incandescence, sending a glare of fiery mist against the
+threatening blue behind, and fringing with pomegranate-coloured
+blots the water where no light now lingered. It is difficult to
+bend words to the use required. The scene, in spite of natural
+suavity and grace, had become like Dante's first glimpse of the
+City of Dis&mdash;like Sodom and Gomorrah when fire from heaven
+descended on their towers before they crumbled into dust.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">From Capri to Ischia</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>After this, for several days, Libeccio blew harder. No boats
+could leave or come to Capri. From the piazza parapet we saw the
+wind scooping the surface of the waves, and flinging spray-fleeces
+in sheets upon the churning water. As they broke on Cape
+Campanella, the rollers climbed in foam&mdash;how many
+feet?&mdash;and blotted out the olive-trees above the headland. The
+sky was always dark with hanging clouds and masses of low-lying
+vapour, very moist, but scarcely raining&mdash;lightning without
+thunder in the night.</p>
+
+<p>Such weather is unexpected in the middle month of May,
+especially when the olives are blackened by December storms, and
+the orange-trees despoiled of foliage, and the tendrils of the
+vines yellow with cold. The walnut-trees have shown no sign of
+making leaves. Only the figs seem to have suffered little.</p>
+
+<p>It had been settled that we should start upon the first <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg233" id="pg233">233</a></span> seafaring
+dawn for Ischia or Sorrento, according as the wind might set; and I
+was glad when, early one morning, the captain of the <i>Serena</i>
+announced a moderate sirocco. When we reached the little quay we
+found the surf of the Libeccio still rolling heavily into the gulf.
+A gusty south-easter crossed it, tearing spray-crests from the
+swell as it went plunging onward. The sea was rough enough; but we
+made fast sailing, our captain steering with a skill which it was
+beautiful to watch, his five oarsmen picturesquely grouped beneath
+the straining sail. The sea slapped and broke from time to time on
+our windward quarter, drenching the boat with brine; and now and
+then her gunwale scooped into the shoulder of a wave as she shot
+sidling up it. Meanwhile enormous masses of leaden-coloured clouds
+formed above our heads and on the sea-line; but these were always
+shifting in the strife of winds, and the sun shone through them
+petulantly. As we climbed the rollers, or sank into their trough,
+the outline of the bay appeared in glimpses, shyly revealed,
+suddenly withdrawn from sight; the immobility and majesty of
+mountains contrasted with the weltering waste of water round
+us&mdash;now blue and garish where the sunlight fell, now shrouded
+in squally rain-storms, and then again sullen beneath a vaporous
+canopy. Each of these vignettes was photographed for one brief
+second on the brain, and swallowed by the hurling drift of billows.
+The painter's art could but ill have rendered that changeful colour
+in the sea, passing from tawny cloud-reflections and surfaces of
+glowing violet to bright blue or impenetrable purple flecked with
+boiling foam, according as a light-illuminated or a shadowed facet
+of the moving mass was turned to sight.</p>
+
+<p>Halfway across the gulf the sirocco lulled; the sail was
+lowered, and we had to make the rest of the passage by rowing.
+Under the lee of Ischia we got into comparatively quiet <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg234" id="pg234">234</a></span> water;
+though here the beautiful Italian sea was yellowish green with
+churned-up sand, like an unripe orange. We passed the castle on its
+rocky island, with the domed church which has been so often painted
+in <i>gouache</i> pictures through the last two centuries, and soon
+after noon we came to Casamicciola.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">La Piccola Sentinella</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Casamicciola is a village on the north side of the island, in
+its centre, where the visitors to the mineral baths of Ischia
+chiefly congregate. One of its old-established inns is called La
+Piccola Sentinella. The first sight on entrance is an open gallery,
+with a pink wall on which bloom magnificent cactuses, sprays of
+thick-clustering scarlet and magenta flowers. This is a rambling
+house, built in successive stages against a hill, with terraces and
+verandahs opening on unexpected gardens to the back and front.
+Beneath its long irregular fa&ccedil;ade there spreads a wilderness
+of orange-trees and honeysuckles and roses, verbenas, geraniums and
+mignonette, snapdragons, gazanias and stocks, exceeding bright and
+fragrant, with the green slopes of Monte Epomeo for a background
+and Vesuvius for far distance. There are wonderful bits of detail
+in this garden. One dark, thick-foliaged olive, I remember, leaning
+from the tufa over a lizard-haunted wall, feathered waist-high in
+huge acanthus leaves. The whole rich orchard ground of Casamicciola
+is dominated by Monte Epomeo, the extinct volcano which may be
+called the <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> of Ischia; for this island is
+nothing but a mountain lifted by the energy of fire from the
+sea-basement. Its fantastic peaks and ridges, sulphur-coloured,
+dusty grey, and tawny, with brushwood in young leaf upon the cloven
+flanks, form a singular pendant to the austere but more
+artistically modelled limestone crags of Capri. No two islands that
+I know, within so <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg235" id=
+"pg235">235</a></span> short a space of sea, offer two pictures so
+different in style and quality of loveliness. The inhabitants are
+equally distinct in type. Here, in spite of what De Musset wrote
+somewhat affectedly about the peasant girls&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i5">Ischia! c'est l&agrave; qu'on a des yeux,</div>
+
+<div class="i5">C'est l&agrave; qu'un corsage amoureux</div>
+
+<div class="i11">Serre la hanche.</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Sur un bas rouge bien tir&eacute;</div>
+
+<div class="i5">Brille, sous le jupon dor&eacute;,</div>
+
+<div class="i11">La mule blanche&mdash;</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>in spite of these lines I did not find the Ischian women
+eminent, as those of Capri are, for beauty. But the young men have
+fine, loose, faun-like figures, and faces that would be strikingly
+handsome but for too long and prominent noses. They are a singular
+race, graceful in movement.</p>
+
+<p>Evening is divine in Ischia. From the topmost garden terrace of
+the inn one looks across the sea towards Terracina, Gaeta, and
+those descending mountain buttresses, the Phlegr&aelig;an plains,
+and the distant snows of the Abruzzi. Rain-washed and luminous, the
+sunset sky held Hesper trembling in a solid green of beryl.
+Fireflies flashed among the orange blossoms. Far away in the
+obscurity of eastern twilight glared the smouldering cone of
+Vesuvius&mdash;a crimson blot upon the darkness&mdash;a Cyclops'
+eye, bloodshot and menacing.</p>
+
+<p>The company in the Piccola Sentinella, young and old, were
+decrepit, with an odd, rheumatic, shrivelled look upon them. The
+dining-room reminded me, as certain rooms are apt to do, of a
+ship's saloon. I felt as though I had got into the cabin of the
+<i>Flying Dutchman</i>, and that all these people had been sitting
+there at meat a hundred years, through storm and shine, for ever
+driving onward over immense waves in an enchanted calm.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg236" id=
+"pg236">236</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">Ischia and Forio</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>One morning we drove along the shore, up hill, and down, by the
+Porto d'Ischia to the town and castle. This country curiously
+combines the qualities of Corfu and Catania. The near distance, so
+richly cultivated, with the large volcanic slopes of Monte Epomeo
+rising from the sea, is like Catania. Then, across the gulf, are
+the bold outlines and snowy peaks of the Abruzzi, recalling
+Albanian ranges. Here, as in Sicily, the old lava is overgrown with
+prickly pear and red valerian. Mesembrianthemums&mdash;I must be
+pardoned this word; for I cannot omit those fleshy-leaved creepers,
+with their wealth of gaudy blossoms, shaped like sea anemones,
+coloured like strawberry and pineapple
+cream-ices&mdash;mesembrianthemums, then, tumble in torrents from
+the walls, and large-cupped white convolvuluses curl about the
+hedges. The Castle Rock, with Capri's refined sky-coloured outline
+relieving its hard profile on the horizon, is one of those
+exceedingly picturesque objects just too theatrical to be artistic.
+It seems ready-made for a back scene in 'Masaniello,' and cries out
+to the chromo-lithographer, 'Come and make the most of me!' Yet
+this morning all things, in sea, earth, and sky, were so delicately
+tinted and bathed in pearly light that it was difficult to be
+critical.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we took the other side of the island, driving
+through Lacca to Forio. One gets right round the bulk of Epomeo,
+and looks up into a weird region called Le Falange, where white
+lava streams have poured in two broad irregular torrents among
+broken precipices. Forio itself is placed at the end of a flat
+headland, boldly thrust into the sea; and its furthest promontory
+bears a pilgrimage church, intensely white and glaring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg237" id="pg237">237</a></span>
+There is something arbitrary in the memories we make of places
+casually visited, dependent as they are upon our mood at the
+moment, or on an accidental interweaving of impressions which the
+<i>genius loci</i> blends for us. Of Forio two memories abide with
+me. The one is of a young woman, with very fair hair, in a light
+blue dress, standing beside an older woman in a garden. There was a
+flourishing pomegranate-tree above them. The whiteness and the
+dreamy smile of the young woman seemed strangely out of tune with
+her strong-toned southern surroundings. I could have fancied her a
+daughter of some moist north-western isle of Scandinavian seas. My
+other memory is of a lad, brown, handsome, powerfully featured,
+thoughtful, lying curled up in the sun upon a sort of ladder in his
+house-court, profoundly meditating. He had a book in his hand, and
+his finger still marked the place where he had read. He looked as
+though a Columbus or a Campanella might emerge from his earnest,
+fervent, steadfast adolescence. Driving rapidly along, and leaving
+Forio in all probability for ever, I kept wondering whether those
+two lives, discerned as though in vision, would meet&mdash;whether
+she was destined to be his evil genius, whether posterity would
+hear of him and journey to his birthplace in this world-neglected
+Forio. Such reveries are futile. Yet who entirely resists them?</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">Monte Epomeo</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>About three on the morning which divides the month of May into
+two equal parts I woke and saw the waning moon right opposite my
+window, stayed in her descent upon the slope of Epomeo. Soon
+afterwards Christian called me, and we settled to ascend the
+mountain. Three horses and a stout black donkey, with their
+inevitable grooms, were ordered; <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg238" id="pg238">238</a></span> and we took for guide a lovely
+faun-like boy, goat-faced, goat-footed, with gentle manners and
+pliant limbs swaying beneath the breath of impulse. He was called
+Giuseppe.</p>
+
+<p>The way leads past the mineral baths and then strikes uphill, at
+first through lanes cut deep in the black lava. The trees meet
+almost overhead. It is like Devonshire, except that one half hopes
+to see tropical foxgloves with violet bells and downy leaves
+sprouting among the lush grasses and sweet-scented ferns upon those
+gloomy, damp, warm walls. After this we skirted a thicket of
+arbutus, and came upon the long volcanic ridge, with divinest
+outlook over Procida and Miseno toward Vesuvius. Then once more we
+had to dive into brown sandstone gullies, extremely steep, where
+the horses almost burst their girths in scrambling, and the grooms
+screamed, exasperating their confusion with encouragements and
+curses. Straight or bending as a willow wand, Giuseppe kept in
+front. I could have imagined he had stepped to life from one of
+Lionardo's fancy-sprighted studies.</p>
+
+<p>After this fashion we gained the spine of mountain which
+composes Ischia&mdash;the smooth ascending ridge that grows up from
+those eastern waves to what was once the apex of fire-vomiting
+Inarime, and breaks in precipices westward, a ruin of gulfed lava,
+tortured by the violence of pent Typhoeus. Under a vast umbrella
+pine we dismounted, rested, and saw Capri. Now the road skirts
+slanting-wise along the further flank of Epomeo, rising by muddy
+earth-heaps and sandstone hollows to the quaint pinnacles which
+build the summit. There is no inconsiderable peril in riding over
+this broken ground; for the soil crumbles away, and the ravines
+open downward, treacherously masked with brushwood.</p>
+
+<p>On Epomeo's topmost cone a chapel dedicated to S. Niccolo da
+Bari, the Italian patron of seamen, has been <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg239" id="pg239">239</a></span> hollowed from
+the rock. Attached to it is the dwelling of two hermits,
+subterranean, with long dark corridors and windows opening on the
+western seas. Church and hermitage alike are scooped, with slight
+expenditure of mason's skill, from solid mountain. The windows are
+but loopholes, leaning from which the town of Forio is seen, 2500
+feet below; and the jagged precipices of the menacing Falange toss
+their contorted horror forth to sea and sky. Through gallery and
+grotto we wound in twilight under a monk's guidance, and came at
+length upon the face of the crags above Casamicciola. A few steps
+upward, cut like a ladder in the stone, brought us to the topmost
+peak&mdash;a slender spire of soft, yellowish tufa. It reminded me
+(with differences) of the way one climbs the spire at Strasburg,
+and stands upon that temple's final crocket, with nothing but a
+lightning conductor to steady swimming senses. Different indeed are
+the views unrolled beneath the peak of Epomeo and the pinnacle of
+Strasburg! Vesuvius, with the broken lines of Procida, Miseno, and
+Lago Fusaro for foreground; the sculpturesque beauty of Capri,
+buttressed in everlasting calm upon the waves; the Phlegr&aelig;an
+plains and champaign of Volturno, stretching between smooth seas
+and shadowy hills; the mighty sweep of Naples' bay; all merged in
+blue; a&euml;rial, translucent, exquisitely frail. In this ethereal
+fabric of azure the most real of realities, the most solid of
+substances, seem films upon a crystal sphere.</p>
+
+<p>The hermit produced some flasks of amber-coloured wine from his
+stores in the grotto. These we drank, lying full-length upon the
+tufa in the morning sunlight. The panorama of sea, sky, and
+long-drawn lines of coast, breathless, without a ripple or a taint
+of cloud, spread far and wide around us. Our horses and donkey
+cropped what little grass, blent with bitter herbage, grew on that
+barren summit. Their grooms <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg240"
+id="pg240">240</a></span> helped us out with the hermit's wine, and
+turned to sleep face downward. The whole scene was very quiet,
+islanded in immeasurable air. Then we asked the boy, Giuseppe,
+whether he could guide us on foot down the cliffs of Monte Epomeo
+to Casamicciola. This he was willing and able to do; for he told me
+that he had spent many months each year upon the hillside, tending
+goats. When rough weather came, he wrapped himself in a blanket
+from the snow that falls and melts upon the ledges. In summer time
+he basked the whole day long, and slept the calm ambrosial nights
+away. Something of this free life was in the burning eyes, long
+clustering dark hair, and smooth brown bosom of the faun-like
+creature. His graceful body had the brusque, unerring movement of
+the goats he shepherded. Human thought and emotion seemed a-slumber
+in this youth who had grown one with nature. As I watched his
+careless incarnate loveliness I remembered lines from an old
+Italian poem of romance, describing a dweller of the forest,
+who</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Haunteth the woodland aye 'neath verdurous
+shade,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Eateth wild fruit, drinketh of running
+stream;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And such-like is his nature, as 'tis said,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">That ever weepeth he when clear skies gleam,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Seeing of storms and rain he then hath dread,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And feareth lest the sun's heat fail for him;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But when on high hurl winds and clouds
+together,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Full glad is he and waiteth for fair weather.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Giuseppe led us down those curious volcanic <i>balze</i>, where
+the soil is soft as marl, with tints splashed on it of pale green
+and rose and orange, and a faint scent in it of sulphur. They break
+away into wild chasms, where rivulets begin; and here the narrow
+watercourses made for us plain going. The turf beneath our feet was
+starred with cyclamens and wavering anemones. At last we reached
+the chestnut woods, and so <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg241"
+id="pg241">241</a></span> by winding paths descended on the
+village. Giuseppe told me, as we walked, that in a short time he
+would be obliged to join the army. He contemplated this duty with a
+dim and undefined dislike. Nor could I, too, help dreading and
+misliking it for him. The untamed, gentle creature, who knew so
+little but his goats as yet, whose nights had been passed from
+childhood <i>&agrave; la belle &eacute;toile</i>, whose limbs had
+never been cumbered with broadcloth or belt&mdash;for him to be
+shut up in the barrack of some Lombard city, packed in white
+conscript's sacking, drilled, taught to read and write, and
+weighted with the knapsack and the musket! There was something
+lamentable in the prospect. But such is the burden of man's life,
+of modern life especially. United Italy demands of her children
+that by this discipline they should be brought into that harmony
+which builds a nation out of diverse elements.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">From Ischia to Naples</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Ischia showed a new aspect on the morning of our departure. A
+sea-mist passed along the skirts of the island, and rolled in heavy
+masses round the peaks of Monte Epomeo, slowly condensing into
+summer clouds, and softening each outline with a pearly haze,
+through which shone emerald glimpses of young vines and
+fig-trees.</p>
+
+<p>We left in a boat with four oarsmen for Pozzuoli. For about an
+hour the breeze carried us well, while Ischia behind grew ever
+lovelier, soft as velvet, shaped like a gem. The mist had become a
+great white luminous cloud&mdash;not dense and alabastrine, like
+the clouds of thunder; but filmy, tender, comparable to the
+atmosphere of Dante's moon. Porpoises and sea-gulls played and
+fished about our bows, dividing the <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg242" id="pg242">242</a></span> dark brine in spray. The mountain
+distances were drowned in bluish vapour&mdash;Vesuvius quite
+invisible. About noon the air grew clearer, and Capri reared her
+fortalice of sculptured rock, a&euml;rially azure, into liquid
+ether. I know not what effect of atmosphere or light it is that
+lifts an island from the sea by interposing that thin edge of
+lustrous white between it and the water. But this phenomenon to-day
+was perfectly exhibited. Like a mirage on the wilderness, like Fata
+Morgana's palace ascending from the deep, the pure and noble vision
+stayed suspense 'twixt heaven and ocean. At the same time the
+breeze failed, and we rowed slowly between Procida and Capo
+Miseno&mdash;a space in old-world history athrong with
+C&aelig;sar's navies. When we turned the point, and came in sight
+of Bai&aelig;, the wind freshened and took us flying into Pozzuoli.
+The whole of this coast has been spoiled by the recent upheaval of
+Monte Nuovo with its lava floods and cindery deluges. Nothing
+remains to justify its fame among the ancient Romans and the
+Neapolitans of Boccaccio's and Pontano's age. It is quite wrecked,
+beyond the power even of hendecasyllables to bring again its breath
+of beauty:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i7">Mecum si sapies, Gravina, mecum</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Baias, et placidos coles recessus,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Quos ips&aelig; et veneres colunt, et illa</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Qu&aelig; mentes hominum regit voluptas.</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Hic vina et chore&aelig; jocique regnant,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Regnant et charites faceti&aelig;que.</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Has sedes amor, has colit cupido.</div>
+
+<div class="i7">His passim juvenes puellul&aelig;que</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Ludunt, et tepidis aquis lavantur,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Coenantque et dapibus leporibusque</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Miscent delitias venustiores:</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Miscent gaudia et osculationes,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Atque una sociis toris foventur,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Has te ad delitias vocant camoen&aelig;;</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Invitat mare, myrteumque littus;</div>
+
+<div class="i7"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg243" id=
+"pg243">243</a></span> Invitant volueres canor&aelig;, et
+ipse</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Gaurus pampineas parat corollas.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_52" id="FNanchor_1_52" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_52" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_52" id="Footnote_1_52" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_52"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> These
+verses are extracted from the second book of Pontano's
+<i>Hendecasyllabi</i> (Aldus, 1513, p. 208). They so vividly paint
+the amusements of a watering-place in the fifteenth century that I
+have translated them:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i2">With me, let but the mind be wise, Gravina,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">With me haste to the tranquil haunts of
+Bai&aelig;,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Haunts that pleasure hath made her home, and she
+who</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Sways all hearts, the voluptuous Aphrodite.</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Here wine rules, and the dance, and games and
+laughter;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Graces reign in a round of mirthful madness;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Love hath built, and desire, a palace here
+too,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Where glad youths and enamoured girls on all
+sides</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Play and bathe in the waves in sunny weather,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Dine and sup, and the merry mirth of banquets</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Blend with dearer delights and love's
+embraces,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Blend with pleasures of youth and honeyed
+kisses,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Till, sport-tired, in the couch inarmed they
+slumber.</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Thee our Muses invite to these enjoyments;</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Thee those billows allure, the myrtled
+seashore,</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Birds allure with a song, and mighty Gaurus</div>
+
+<div class="i2">Twines his redolent wreath of vines and ivy.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Pozzuoli we dined in the Albergo del Ponte di Caligola
+(Heaven save the mark!), and drank Falernian wine of modern and
+indifferent vintage. Then Christian hired two open carriages for
+Naples. He and I sat in the second. In the first we placed the two
+ladies of our party. They had a large, fat driver. Just after we
+had all passed the gate a big fellow rushed up, dragged the
+corpulent coachman from his box, pulled out a knife, and made a
+savage thrust at the man's stomach. At the same moment a
+<i>guardia-porta</i>, with drawn cutlass, interposed and struck
+between the combatants. They were separated. Their respective
+friends assembled in two jabbering crowds, and the whole party,
+uttering vociferous objurgations, marched off, as I imagined, to
+the watch-house. A very shabby lazzarone, without more ado, <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg244" id="pg244">244</a></span> sprang on
+the empty box, and we made haste for Naples. Being only anxious to
+get there, and not at all curious about the squabble which had
+deprived us of our fat driver, I relapsed into indifference when I
+found that neither of the men to whose lot we had fallen was
+desirous of explaining the affair. It was sufficient cause for
+self-congratulation that no blood had been shed, and that the
+Procuratore del R&egrave; would not require our evidence.</p>
+
+<p>The Grotta di Posilippo was a sight of wonder, with the
+afternoon sun slanting on its festoons of creeping plants above the
+western entrance&mdash;the gas lamps, dust, huge carts, oxen, and
+<i>contadini</i> in its subterranean darkness&mdash;and then the
+sudden revelation of the bay and city as we jingled out into the
+summery air again by Virgil's tomb.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">Night at Pompeii</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>On to Pompeii in the clear sunset, falling very lightly upon
+mountains, islands, little ports, and indentations of the bay.</p>
+
+<p>From the railway station we walked above half a mile to the
+Albergo del Sole under a lucid heaven of aqua-marine colour, with
+Venus large in it upon the border line between the tints of green
+and blue.</p>
+
+<p>The Albergo del Sole is worth commemorating. We stepped, without
+the intervention of courtyard or entrance hall, straight from the
+little inn garden into an open, vaulted room. This was divided into
+two compartments by a stout column supporting round arches. Wooden
+gates furnished a kind of fence between the atrium and what an old
+Pompeian would have styled the triclinium. For in the further part
+a table was laid for supper and lighted with suspended lamps. And
+here a party of artists and students drank and talked and <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg245" id="pg245">245</a></span> smoked. A
+great live peacock, half asleep and winking his eyes, sat perched
+upon a heavy wardrobe watching them. The outer chamber, where we
+waited in armchairs of ample girth, had its <i>loggia</i> windows
+and doors open to the air. There were singing-birds in cages; and
+plants of rosemary, iris, and arundo sprang carelessly from holes
+in the floor. A huge vase filled to overflowing with oranges and
+lemons, the very symbol of generous prodigality, stood in the
+midst, and several dogs were lounging round. The outer twilight,
+blending with the dim sheen of the lamps, softened this pretty
+scene to picturesqueness. Altogether it was a strange and
+unexpected place. Much experienced as the nineteenth-century nomad
+may be in inns, he will rarely receive a more powerful and
+refreshing impression, entering one at evenfall, than here.</p>
+
+<p>There was no room for us in the inn. We were sent, attended by a
+boy with a lantern, through fields of dew-drenched barley and
+folded poppies, to a farmhouse overshadowed by four spreading
+pines. Exceedingly soft and grey, with rose-tinted weft of steam
+upon its summit, stood Vesuvius above us in the twilight. Something
+in the recent impression of the dimly lighted supper-room, and in
+the idyllic simplicity of this lantern-litten journey through the
+barley, suggested, by one of those inexplicable stirrings of
+association which affect tired senses, a dim, dreamy thought of
+Palestine and Bible stories. The feeling of the <i>cenacolo</i>
+blent here with feelings of Ruth's cornfields, and the white square
+houses with their flat roofs enforced the illusion. Here we slept
+in the middle of a <i>contadino</i> colony. Some of the folk had
+made way for us; and by the wheezing, coughing, and snoring of
+several sorts and ages in the chamber next me, I imagine they must
+have endured considerable crowding. My bed was large enough to have
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg246" id="pg246">246</a></span>
+contained a family. Over its bead there was a little shrine,
+hollowed in the thickness of the wall, with several sacred emblems
+and a shallow vase of holy water. On dressers at each end of the
+room stood glass shrines, occupied by finely dressed Madonna dolls
+and pots of artificial flowers. Above the doors S. Michael and S.
+Francis, roughly embossed in low relief and boldly painted, gave
+dignity and grandeur to the walls. These showed some sense for art
+in the first builders of the house. But the taste of the
+inhabitants could not be praised. There were countless gaudy prints
+of saints, and exactly five pictures of the Bambino, very big, and
+sprawling in a field alone. A crucifix, some old bottles, a gun,
+old clothes suspended from pegs, pieces of peasant pottery and
+china, completed the furniture of the apartment.</p>
+
+<p>But what a view it showed when Christian next morning opened the
+door! From my bed I looked across the red-tiled terrace to the
+stone-pines with their velvet roofage and the blue-peaked hills of
+Stabi&aelig;.</p>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">San Germano</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>No one need doubt about his quarters in this country town. The
+Albergo di Pompeii is a truly sumptuous place. Sofas, tables, and
+chairs in our sitting-room are made of buffalo horns, very cleverly
+pieced together, but torturing the senses with suggestions of
+impalement. Sitting or standing, one felt insecure. When would the
+points run into us? when should we begin to break these
+incrustations off? and would the whole fabric crumble at a touch
+into chaotic heaps of horns?</p>
+
+<p>It is market day, and the costumes in the streets are brilliant.
+The women wear a white petticoat, a blue skirt made straight and
+tightly bound above it, a white richly <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg247" id="pg247">247</a></span> worked bodice, and the white
+square-folded napkin of the Abruzzi on their heads. Their jacket is
+of red or green&mdash;pure colour. A rug of striped red, blue,
+yellow, and black protects the whole dress from the rain. There is
+a very noble quality of green&mdash;sappy and gemmy&mdash;like some
+of Titian's or Giorgione's&mdash;in the stuffs they use. Their
+build and carriage are worthy of goddesses.</p>
+
+<p>Rain falls heavily, persistently. We must ride on donkeys, in
+waterproofs, to Monte Cassino. Mountain and valley, oak wood and
+ilex grove, lentisk thicket and winding river-bed, are drowned
+alike in soft-descending, soaking rain. Far and near the landscape
+swims in rain, and the hillsides send down torrents through their
+watercourses.</p>
+
+<p>The monastery is a square, dignified building, of vast extent
+and princely solidity. It has a fine inner court, with sumptuous
+staircases of slabbed stone leading to the church. This public
+portion of the edifice is both impressive and magnificent, without
+sacrifice of religious severity to parade. We acknowledge a
+successful compromise between the austerity of the order and the
+grandeur befitting the fame, wealth, prestige, and power of its
+parent foundation. The church itself is a tolerable structure of
+the Renaissance&mdash;costly marble incrustations and mosaics,
+meaningless Neapolitan frescoes. One singular episode in the
+mediocrity of art adorning it, is the tomb of Pietro de' Medici.
+Expelled from Florence in 1494, he never returned, but was drowned
+in the Garigliano. Clement VII. ordered, and Duke Cosimo I.
+erected, this marble monument&mdash;the handicraft, in part at
+least, of Francesco di San Gallo&mdash;to their relative. It is
+singularly stiff, ugly, out of place&mdash;at once obtrusive and
+insignificant.</p>
+
+<p>A gentle old German monk conducted Christian and me over the
+convent&mdash;boys' school, refectory, printing press, <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg248" id="pg248">248</a></span> lithographic
+workshop, library, archives. We then returned to the church, from
+which we passed to visit the most venerable and sacred portion of
+the monastery. The cell of S. Benedict is being restored and
+painted in fresco by the Austrian Benedictines; a pious but
+somewhat frigid process of re-edification. This so-called cell is a
+many-chambered and very ancient building, with a tower which is now
+embedded in the massive superstructure of the modern monastery. The
+German artists adorning it contrive to blend the styles of Giotto,
+Fra Angelico, Egypt, and Byzance, not without force and a kind of
+intense frozen pietism. S. Mauro's vision of his master's
+translation to heaven&mdash;the ladder of light issuing between two
+cypresses, and the angels watching on the tower walls&mdash;might
+even be styled poetical. But the decorative angels on the roof and
+other places, being adapted from Egyptian art, have a strange,
+incongruous appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Monasteries are almost invariably disappointing to one who goes
+in search of what gives virtue and solidity to human life; and even
+Monte Cassino was no exception. This ought not to be otherwise,
+seeing what a peculiar sympathy with the monastic institution is
+required to make these cloisters comprehensible. The atmosphere of
+operose indolence, prolonged through centuries and centuries,
+stifles; nor can antiquity and influence impose upon a mind which
+resents monkery itself as an essential evil. That Monte Cassino
+supplied the Church with several potentates is incontestable. That
+medi&aelig;val learning and morality would have suffered more
+without this brotherhood cannot be doubted. Yet it is difficult to
+name men of very eminent genius whom the Cassinesi claim as their
+alumni; nor, with Boccaccio's testimony to their carelessness, and
+with the evidence of their library before our eyes, can we rate
+their services to <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg249" id=
+"pg249">249</a></span> civilised erudition very highly. I longed to
+possess the spirit, for one moment, of Montalembert. I longed for
+what is called historical imagination, for the indiscriminate
+voracity of those men to whom world-famous sites are in themselves
+soul-stirring.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg250" id=
+"pg250">250</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="AMALFI" id="AMALFI"><i>AMALFI, P&AElig;STUM,
+CAPRI</i></a></h3>
+
+<p>The road between Vietri and Amalfi is justly celebrated as one
+of the most lovely pieces of coast scenery in Italy. Its only
+rivals are the roads from Castellammare to Sorrento, from Genoa to
+Sestri, and from Nice to Mentone. Each of these has its own charm;
+and yet their similarity is sufficient to invite comparison: under
+the spell of each in turn, we are inclined to say, This then, at
+all events, is the most beautiful. On first quitting Vietri,
+Salerno is left low down upon the sea-shore, nestling into a little
+corner of the bay which bears its name, and backed up by gigantic
+mountains. With each onward step these mountain-ranges expand in
+long a&euml;rial line, revealing reaches of fantastic peaks, that
+stretch away beyond the plain of P&aelig;stum, till they end at
+last in mist and sunbeams shimmering on the sea. On the left hand
+hangs the cliff above the deep salt water, with here and there a
+fig-tree spreading fanlike leaves against the blue beneath. On the
+right rises the hillside, clothed with myrtle, lentisk, cistus, and
+pale yellow coronilla&mdash;a tangle as sweet with scent as it is
+gay with blossom. Over the parapet that skirts the precipice lean
+heavy-foliaged locust-trees, and the terraces in sunny nooks are
+set with lemon-orchards. There are but few olives, and no pines.
+Meanwhile each turn in the road brings some change of
+scene&mdash;now a village with its little beach of grey sand,
+lapped by clearest sea-waves, where bare-legged fishermen mend
+their nets, and naked boys bask like lizards in the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg251" id="pg251">251</a></span> sun&mdash;now
+towering bastions of weird rock, broken into spires and pinnacles
+like those of Skye, and coloured with bright hues of red and
+orange&mdash;then a ravine, where the thin thread of a mountain
+streamlet seems to hang suspended upon ferny ledges in the
+limestone&mdash;or a precipice defined in profile against sea and
+sky, with a lad, half dressed in goat-skin, dangling his legs into
+vacuity and singing&mdash;or a tract of cultivation, where the
+orange, apricot, and lemon trees nestle together upon terraces with
+intermingled pergolas of vines.</p>
+
+<p>Amalfi and Atrani lie close together in two of these ravines,
+the mountains almost arching over them, and the sea washing their
+very house-walls. Each has its crowning campanile; but that of
+Amalfi is the stranger of the two, like a Moorish tower at the top,
+and coloured with green and yellow tiles that glitter in the
+sunlight. The houses are all dazzling white, plastered against the
+naked rock, rising on each other's shoulders to get a glimpse of
+earth and heaven, jutting out on coigns of vantage from the
+toppling cliff, and pierced with staircases as dark as night at
+noonday. Some frequented lanes lead through the basements of these
+houses; and as the donkeys pick their way from step to step in the
+twilight, bare-chested macaroni-makers crowd forth like ants to see
+us strangers pass. A myriad of swallows or a swarm of mason bees
+might build a town like this.</p>
+
+<p>It is not easy to imagine the time when Amalfi and Atrani were
+one town, with docks and arsenals and harbourage for their
+associated fleets, and when these little communities were second in
+importance to no naval power of Christian Europe. The Byzantine
+Empire lost its hold on Italy during the eighth century; and after
+this time the history of Calabria is mainly concerned with the
+republics of Naples and Amalfi, their conflict with the Lombard
+dukes of Benevento, their opposition to the Saracens, and their
+final subjugation by the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg252" id=
+"pg252">252</a></span> Norman conquerors of Sicily. Between the
+year 839 A.D., when Amalfi freed itself from the control of Naples
+and the yoke of Benevento, and the year 1131, when Roger of
+Hauteville incorporated the republic in his kingdom of the Two
+Sicilies, this city was the foremost naval and commercial port of
+Italy. The burghers of Amalfi elected their own doge; founded the
+Hospital of Jerusalem, whence sprang the knightly order of S. John;
+gave their name to the richest quarter in Palermo; and owned
+trading establishments or factories in all the chief cities of the
+Levant. Their gold coinage of <i>tari</i> formed the standard of
+currency before the Florentines had stamped the lily and S. John
+upon the Tuscan florin. Their shipping regulations supplied Europe
+with a code of maritime laws. Their scholars, in the darkest depth
+of the dark ages, prized and conned a famous copy of the Pandects
+of Justinian; and their seamen deserved the fame of having first
+used, if they did not actually invent, the compass.</p>
+
+<p>To modern visitors those glorious centuries of Amalfitan power
+and independence cannot but seem fabulous; so difficult is it for
+us to imagine the conditions of society in Europe when a tiny city,
+shut in between barren mountains and a tideless sea, without a
+circumjacent territory, and with no resources but piracy or trade,
+could develop maritime supremacy in the Levant and produce the
+first fine flowers of liberty and culture.</p>
+
+<p>If the history of Amalfi's early splendour reads like a
+brilliant legend, the story of its premature extinction has the
+interest of a tragedy. The republic had grown and flourished on the
+decay of the Greek Empire. When the hard-handed race of Hauteville
+absorbed the heritage of Greeks and Lombards and Saracens in
+Southern Italy, these adventurers succeeded in annexing Amalfi. But
+it was not their interest to extinguish the state. On the contrary,
+they relied for <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg253" id=
+"pg253">253</a></span> assistance upon the navies and the armies of
+the little commonwealth. New powers had meanwhile arisen in the
+North of Italy, who were jealous of rivalry upon the open seas; and
+when the Neapolitans resisted King Roger in 1135, they called Pisa
+to their aid, and sent her fleet to destroy Amalfi. The ships of
+Amalfi were on guard with Roger's navy in the Bay of Naples. The
+armed citizens were, under Roger's orders, at Aversa. Meanwhile the
+home of the republic lay defenceless on its mountain-girdled
+seaboard. The Pisans sailed into the harbour, sacked the city, and
+carried off the famous Pandects of Justinian as a trophy. Two years
+later they returned, to complete the work of devastation. Amalfi
+never recovered from the injuries and the humiliation of these two
+attacks. It was ever thus that the Italians, like the children of
+the dragon's teeth which Cadmus sowed, consumed each other. Pisa
+cut the throat of her sister-port Amalfi, and Genoa gave a mortal
+wound to Pisa, when the waters of Meloria were dyed with blood in
+1284. Venice fought a duel to the death with Genoa in the
+succeeding century; and what Venice failed to accomplish was
+completed by Milan and the lords of the Visconti dynasty, who
+crippled and enslaved the haughty queen of the Ligurian
+Riviera.</p>
+
+<p>The naval and commercial prosperity of Amalfi was thus put an
+end to by the Pisans in the twelfth century. But it was not then
+that the town assumed its present aspect. What surprises the
+student of history more than anything is the total absence of
+fortifications, docks, arsenals, and breakwaters, bearing witness
+to the ancient grandeur of a city which numbered 50,000
+inhabitants, and traded with Alexandria, Syria, and the far East.
+Nothing of the sort, with the exception of a single solitary tower
+upon the Monte Aureo, is visible. Nor will he fail to remember that
+Amalfi and <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg254" id=
+"pg254">254</a></span> Atrani, which are now divided by a jutting
+mountain buttress, were once joined by a tract of sea-beach, where
+the galleys of the republic rested after sweeping the Levant, and
+where the fishermen drew up their boats upon the smooth grey sand.
+That also has disappeared. The violence of man was not enough to
+reduce Amalfi to its present state of insignificance. The forces of
+nature aided&mdash;partly by the gradual subsidence of the land,
+which caused the lower quarters of the city to be submerged, and
+separated Amalfi from her twin-port by covering the beach with
+water&mdash;partly by a fearful tempest, accompanied by earthquake,
+in 1343. Petrarch, then resident at Naples, witnessed the
+destructive fury of this great convulsion, and the description he
+wrote of it soon after its occurrence is so graphic that some
+notice may well be taken of it here.</p>
+
+<p>His letter, addressed to the noble Roman, Giovanni Colonna,
+begins with a promise to tell something of a storm which deserved
+the title of 'poetic,' and in a degree so superlative that no
+epithet but 'Homeric' would suffice to do it justice. This exordium
+is singularly characteristic of Petrarch, who never forgot that he
+was a literary man, and lost no opportunity of dragging the great
+names of antiquity into his rhetorical compositions. The
+catastrophe was hardly unexpected; for it had been prophesied by an
+astrological bishop, whom Petrarch does not name, that Naples would
+be overwhelmed by a terrible disaster in December 1343. The people
+were therefore in a state of wild anxiety, repenting of their sins,
+planning a total change of life under the fear of imminent death,
+and neglecting their ordinary occupations. On the day of the
+predicted calamity women roamed in trembling crowds through the
+streets, pressing their babies to their breasts, and besieging the
+altars of the saints with prayers. Petrarch, who shared the general
+disquietude, kept <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg255" id=
+"pg255">255</a></span> watching the signs of the weather; but
+nothing happened to warrant an extraordinary panic. At sunset the
+sky was quieter than usual; and he could discern none of the
+symptoms of approaching tempest, to which his familiarity with the
+mountains of Vaucluse accustomed him. After dusk he stationed
+himself at a window to observe the moon until she went down, before
+midnight, obscured by clouds. Then he betook himself to bed; but
+scarcely had he fallen into his first sleep when a most horrible
+noise aroused him. The whole house shook; the night-light on his
+table was extinguished; and he was thrown with violence from his
+couch. He was lodging in a convent; and soon after this first
+intimation of the tempest he heard the monks calling to each other
+through the darkness. From cell to cell they hurried, the ghastly
+gleams of lightning falling on their terror-stricken faces. Headed
+by the Prior, and holding crosses and relics of the saints in their
+hands, they now assembled in Petrarch's chamber. Thence they
+proceeded in a body to the chapel, where they spent the night in
+prayer and expectation of impending ruin. It would be impossible,
+says the poet, to relate the terrors of that hellish
+night&mdash;the deluges of rain, the screaming of the wind, the
+earthquake, the thunder, the howling of the sea, and the shrieks of
+agonising human beings. All these horrors were prolonged, as though
+by some magician's spell, for what seemed twice the duration of a
+natural night. It was so dark that at last by conjecture rather
+than the testimony of their senses they knew that day had broken. A
+hurried mass was said. Then, as the noise in the town above them
+began to diminish, and a confused clamour from the sea-shore
+continually increased, their suspense became unendurable. They
+mounted their horses, and descended to the port&mdash;to see and
+perish. A fearful spectacle awaited them. The ships in the harbour
+had broken their moorings, and <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg256" id="pg256">256</a></span> were crashing helplessly
+together. The strand was strewn with mutilated corpses. The
+breakwaters were submerged, and the sea seemed gaining momently
+upon the solid land. A thousand watery mountains surged up into the
+sky between the shore and Capri; and these massive billows were not
+black or purple, but hoary with a livid foam. After describing some
+picturesque episodes&mdash;such as the gathering of the knights of
+Naples to watch the ruin of their city, the procession of court
+ladies headed by the queen to implore the intercession of Mary, and
+the wreck of a vessel freighted with 400 convicts bound for
+Sicily&mdash;Petrarch concludes with a fervent prayer that he may
+never have to tempt the sea, of whose fury he had seen so awful an
+example.</p>
+
+<p>The capital on this occasion escaped the ruin prophesied. But
+Amalfi was inundated; and what the waters then gained has never
+been restored to man. This is why the once so famous city ranks now
+upon a level with quiet little towns whose names are hardly heard
+in history&mdash;with San Remo, or Rapallo, or Chiavari&mdash;and
+yet it is still as full of life as a wasp's nest, especially upon
+the molo, or raised piazza paved with bricks, in front of the
+Albergo de' Cappuccini. The changes of scene upon this tiny square
+are so frequent as to remind one of a theatre. Looking down from
+the inn-balcony, between the glazy green pots gay with scarlet
+amaryllis-bloom, we are inclined to fancy that the whole has been
+prepared for our amusement. In the morning the corn for the
+macaroni-flour, after being washed, is spread out on the bricks to
+dry. In the afternoon the fishermen bring their nets for the same
+purpose. In the evening the city magnates promenade and whisper.
+Dark-eyed women, with orange or crimson kerchiefs for headgear,
+cross and re-cross, bearing baskets on their shoulders. Great lazy
+large-limbed fellows, girt with scarlet sashes and finished off
+with dark blue <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg257" id=
+"pg257">257</a></span> nightcaps (for a contrast to their
+saffron-coloured shirts, white breeches, and sunburnt calves),
+slouch about or sleep face downwards on the parapets. On either
+side of this same molo stretches a miniature beach of sand and
+pebble, covered with nets, which the fishermen are always mending,
+and where the big boats lade or unlade, trimming for the sardine
+fishery, or driving in to shore with a whirr of oars and a jabber
+of discordant voices. As the land-wind freshens, you may watch them
+set off one by one, like pigeons taking flight, till the sea is
+flecked with twenty sail, all scudding in the same direction. The
+torrent runs beneath the molo, and finds the sea beyond it; so that
+here too are the washerwomen, chattering like sparrows; and
+everywhere the naked boys, like brown sea-urchins, burrow in the
+clean warm sand, or splash the shallow brine. If you like the fun,
+you may get a score of them to dive together and scramble for
+coppers in the deeper places, their lithe bodies gleaming wan
+beneath the water in a maze of interlacing arms and legs.</p>
+
+<p>Over the whole busy scene rise the grey hills, soaring into
+blueness of air-distance, turreted here and there with ruined
+castles, capped with particoloured campanili and white convents,
+and tufted through their whole height with the orange and the
+emerald of the great tree-spurge, and with the live gold of the
+blossoming broom. It is difficult to say when this picture is most
+beautiful&mdash;whether in the early morning, when the boats are
+coming back from their night-toil upon the sea, and along the
+headlands in the fresh light lie swathes of fleecy mist, betokening
+a still, hot day&mdash;or at noontide, when the houses on the hill
+stand, tinted pink and yellow, shadowless like gems, and the great
+caruba-trees above the tangles of vines and figs are blots upon the
+steady glare&mdash;or at sunset, when violet and rose, reflected
+from the eastern sky, make all these terraces and peaks translucent
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg258" id="pg258">258</a></span>
+with a wondrous glow. The best of all, perhaps, is night, with a
+full moon hanging high overhead. Who shall describe the silhouettes
+of boats upon the shore or sleeping on the misty sea? On the
+horizon lies a dusky film of brownish golden haze, between the moon
+and the glimmering water; and here and there a lamp or candle burns
+with a deep red. Then is the time to take a boat and row upon the
+bay, or better, to swim out into the waves and trouble the
+reflections from the steady stars. The mountains, clear and calm,
+with light-irradiated chasms and hard shadows cast upon the rock,
+soar up above a city built of alabaster, or sea-foam, or summer
+clouds. The whole is white and wonderful: no similes suggest an
+analogue for the lustre, solid and transparent, of Amalfi nestling
+in moonlight between the grey-blue sea and lucid hills. Stars stand
+on all the peaks, and twinkle, or keep gliding, as the boat moves,
+down the craggy sides. Stars are mirrored on the marble of the sea,
+until one knows not whether the oar has struck sparks from a star
+image or has scattered diamonds of phosphorescent brine.</p>
+
+<p>All this reads like a rhapsody; but indeed it is difficult not
+to be rhapsodical when a May night of Amalfi is in the memory, with
+the echo of rich baritone voices chanting Neapolitan songs to a
+mandoline. It is fashionable to complain that these Italian airs
+are opera-tunes; but this is only another way of saying that the
+Italian opera is the genuine outgrowth of national melody, and that
+Weber was not the first, as some German critics have supposed, to
+string together Volkslieder for the stage. Northerners, who have
+never seen or felt the beauty of the South, talk sad nonsense about
+the superiority of German over Italian music. It is true that much
+Italian music is out of place in Northern Europe, where we seem to
+need more travail of the intellect in art. But the Italians are
+rightly satisfied with such facile melody <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg259" id="pg259">259</a></span> and such simple rhythms as
+harmonise with sea and sky and boon earth sensuously beautiful.
+'Perch&egrave; pensa? Pensando s' invecchia,' expresses the same
+habit of mind as another celebrated saying, 'La musica &egrave; il
+lamento dell' amore o la preghiera agli Dei.' Whatever may be the
+value of Italian music, it is in concord with such a scene as
+Amalfi by moon-light; and he who does not appreciate this no less
+than some more artificial combination of sights and sounds in
+Wagner's theatre at Bayreuth, has scarcely learned the first lesson
+in the lore of beauty.</p>
+
+<p>There is enough and to spare for all tastes at Amalfi. The
+student of architecture may spend hours in the Cathedral, pondering
+over its high-built western front, and wondering whether there is
+more of Moorish or of Gothic in its delicate arcades. The painter
+may transfer its campanile, glittering like dragon's scales, to his
+canvas. The lover of the picturesque will wander through its aisle
+at mass-time, watching the sunlight play upon those upturned
+Southern faces with their ardent eyes; and happy is he who sees
+young men and maidens on Whit Sunday crowding round the chancel
+rails, to catch the marigolds and gillyflowers scattered from
+baskets which the priest has blessed. Is this a symbol of the Holy
+Spirit's gifts, or is it some quaint relic of Pagan
+<i>sparsiones</i>? This question, with the memory of Pompeian
+<i>graffiti</i> in our mind, may well suggest itself in Southern
+Italy, where old and new faiths are so singularly blended. Then
+there is Ravello on the hills above. The path winds upward between
+stone walls tufted with maidenhair; and ever nearer grow the
+mountains, and the sea-line soars into the sky. An Englishman has
+made his home here in a ruined Moorish villa, with cool colonnaded
+cloisters and rose-embowered terraces, lending far prospect over
+rocky hills and olive-girdled villages to P&aelig;stum's plain. The
+churches of Ravello have <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg260" id=
+"pg260">260</a></span> rare mosaics, and bronze doors, and marble
+pulpits, older perhaps than those of Tuscany, which tempt the
+arch&aelig;ologist to ask if Nicholas the Pisan learned his secret
+here. But who cares to be a sober antiquary at Amalfi? Far
+pleasanter is it to climb the staircase to the Capuchins, and
+linger in those caverns of the living rock, and pluck the lemons
+hanging by the mossy walls; or to row from cove to cove along the
+shore, watching the fishes swimming in the deeps beneath, and the
+medusas spreading their filmy bells; to land upon smooth slabs of
+rock, where corallines wave to and fro; or to rest on
+samphire-tufted ledges, when the shadows slant beneath the
+westering sun.</p>
+
+<p>There is no point in all this landscape which does not make a
+picture. Painters might even complain that the pictures are too
+easy and the poetry too facile, just as the musicians find the
+melodies of this fair land too simple. No effect, carefully sought
+and strenuously seized, could enhance the mere beauty of Amalfi
+bathed in sunlight. You have only on some average summer day to sit
+down and paint the scene. Little scope is afforded for suggestions
+of far-away weird thoughts, or for elaborately studied motives.
+Daubigny and Corot are as alien here as Blake or D&uuml;rer.</p>
+
+<p>What is wanted, and what no modern artist can successfully
+recapture from the wasteful past, is the mythopoeic sense&mdash;the
+apprehension of primeval powers akin to man, growing into shape and
+substance on the borderland between the world and the keen human
+sympathies it stirs in us. Greek mythology was the proper form of
+art for scenery like this. It gave the final touch to all its
+beauties, and added to its sensuous charm an inbreathed spiritual
+life. No exercise of the poetic faculty, far less that metaphysical
+mood of the reflective consciousness which 'leads from nature up to
+nature's God,' can now supply this need. From sea and earth <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg261" id="pg261">261</a></span> and sky,
+in those creative ages when the world was young, there leaned to
+greet the men whose fancy made them, forms imagined and yet
+real&mdash;human, divine&mdash;the archetypes and everlasting
+patterns of man's deepest sense of what is wonderful in nature.
+Feeling them there, for ever there, inalienable, ready to start
+forth and greet successive generations&mdash;as the Hamadryad
+greeted Rhaicos from his father's oak&mdash;those mythopoets called
+them by immortal names. All their pent-up longings, all passions
+that consume, all aspirations that inflame&mdash;the desire for the
+impossible, which is disease, the day-dreams and visions of the
+night, which are spontaneous poems&mdash;were thus transferred to
+nature. And nature, responsive to the soul that loves her, gave
+them back transfigured and translated into radiant beings of like
+substance with mankind. It was thus, we feel, upon these southern
+shores that the gods of Greece came into being. The statues in the
+temples were the true fine flower of all this beauty, the
+culmination of the poetry which it evoked in hearts that feel and
+brains that think.</p>
+
+<p>In Italy, far more than in any other part of Europe, the life of
+the present is imposed upon the strata of successive past lives.
+Greek, Latin, Moorish, and medi&aelig;val civilisations have
+arisen, flourished, and decayed on nearly the same soil; and it is
+common enough to find one city, which may have perished twenty
+centuries ago, neighbour to another that enjoyed its brief
+prosperity in the middle of our era. There is not, for example, the
+least sign of either Greek or Roman at Amalfi. Whatever may have
+been the glories of the republic in the early middle ages, they had
+no relation to the classic past. Yet a few miles off along the bay
+rise the ancient Greek temples of P&aelig;stum, from a
+desert&mdash;with no trace of any intervening occupants. Poseidonia
+was founded in the sixth century before Christ, by colonists from
+Sybaris. <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg262" id=
+"pg262">262</a></span> Three centuries later the Hellenic element
+in this settlement, which must already have become a town of no
+little importance, was submerged by a deluge of recurrent
+barbarism. Under the Roman rule it changed its name to
+P&aelig;stum, and was prosperous. The Saracens destroyed it in the
+ninth century of our era; and Robert Guiscard carried some of the
+materials of its buildings to adorn his new town of Salerno. Since
+then the ancient site has been abandoned to malaria and solitude.
+The very existence of P&aelig;stum was unknown, except to wandering
+herdsmen and fishers coasting near its ruined colonnades, until the
+end of the last century. Yet, strange to relate, after all these
+revolutions, and in the midst of this total desolation, the only
+relics of the antique city are three Greek temples, those very
+temples where the Hellenes, barbarised by their Lucanian
+neighbours, met to mourn for their lost liberty. It is almost
+impossible to trace more than the mere circuit of the walls of
+Poseidonia. Its port, if port it had in Roman days, has
+disappeared. Its theatre is only just discernible. Still not a
+column of the great hyp&aelig;thral temple, built by the Sybarite
+colonists two thousand and five hundred years ago, to be a house
+for Zeus or for Poseidon, has been injured. The accidents that
+erased far greater cities, like Syracuse, from the surface of the
+earth&mdash;pillage, earthquake, the fury of fanatics, the slow
+decay of perishable stone, or the lust of palace builders in the
+middle ages&mdash;have spared those three houses of the gods, over
+whom, in the days of Alexander, the funeral hymn was chanted by the
+enslaved Hellenes.</p>
+
+<p>'We do the same,' said Aristoxenus in his Convivial
+Miscellanies, 'as the men of Poseidonia, who dwell on the
+Tyrrhenian Gulf. It befell them, having been at first true
+Hellenes, to be utterly barbarised, changing to Tyrrhenes or
+Romans, and altering their language, together with their <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg263" id="pg263">263</a></span> other
+customs. Yet they still observe one Hellenic festival, when they
+meet together and call to remembrance their old names and bygone
+institutions; and having lamented one to the other, and shed bitter
+tears, they afterwards depart to their own homes. Even thus a few
+of us also, now that our theatres have been barbarised, and this
+art of music has gone to ruin and vulgarity, meet together and
+remember what once music was.'<a name="FNanchor_1_53" id=
+"FNanchor_1_53" /><a href="#Footnote_1_53" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_53" id="Footnote_1_53" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_53"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+<i>Athen&aelig;us</i>, xiv. 632.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This passage has a strange pathos, considering how it was
+penned, and how it has come down to us, tossed by the dark
+indifferent stream of time. The Aristoxenus who wrote it was a
+pupil of the Peripatetic School, born at Tarentum, and therefore
+familiar with the vicissitudes of Magna Gr&aelig;cia. The study of
+music was his chief preoccupation; and he used this episode in the
+agony of an enslaved Greek city, to point his own conservative
+disgust for innovations in an art of which we have no knowledge
+left. The works of Aristoxenus have perished, and the fragment I
+have quoted is embedded in the gossip of Egyptian Athen&aelig;us.
+In this careless fashion has been opened for us, as it were, a
+little window on a grief now buried in the oblivion of a hundred
+generations. After reading his words one May morning, beneath the
+pediment of P&aelig;stum's noblest ruin, I could not refrain from
+thinking that if the spirits of those captive Hellenes were to
+revisit their old habitations, they would change their note of
+wailing into a thin ghostly p&aelig;an, when they found that Romans
+and Lucanians had passed away, that Christians and Saracens had
+left alike no trace behind, while the houses of their own
+&alpha;&nu;&tau;&#942;&lambda;&iota;&omicron;&iota;
+&theta;&epsilon;&omicron;&iota;&mdash;dawn-facing
+deities&mdash;were still abiding in the pride of immemorial
+strength. Who knows whether buffalo-driver or bandit may not ere
+now have seen processions of these Poseidonian phantoms, bearing
+laurels and chaunting hymns on <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg264" id="pg264">264</a></span> the spot where once they fell
+each on the other's neck to weep? Gathering his cloak around him
+and cowering closer to his fire of sticks, the night-watcher in
+those empty colonnades may have mistaken the Hellenic outlines of
+his shadowy visitants for fevered dreams, and the melody of their
+evanished music for the whistling of night winds or the cry of
+owls. So abandoned is P&aelig;stum in its solitude that we know not
+even what legends may have sprung up round those relics of a
+mightier age.</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">The shrine is ruined now; and far away</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To east and west stretch olive groves, whose
+shade</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Even at the height of summer noon is grey.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Asphodels sprout upon the plinth decayed</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of these low columns, and the snake hath
+found</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Her haunt 'neath altar-steps with weeds
+o'erlaid.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Yet this was once a hero's temple, crowned</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With myrtle-boughs by lovers, and with palm</div>
+
+<div class="i4">By wrestlers, resonant with sweetest sound</div>
+
+<div class="i4">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of flute and fife in summer evening's calm,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And odorous with incense all the year,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With nard and spice, and galbanum and balm.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>These lines sufficiently express the sense of desolation felt at
+P&aelig;stum, except that the scenery is more solemn and mournful,
+and the temples are too august to be the shrine of any simple hero.
+There are no olives. The sea plunges on its sandy shore within the
+space of half a mile to westward. Far and wide on either hand
+stretch dreary fever-stricken marshes. The plain is bounded to the
+north, and east, and south, with mountains, purple, snow-peaked,
+serrated, and grandly broken like the hills of Greece. Driving over
+this vast level where the Silarus stagnates, the monotony of the
+landscape is broken now and then by a group of buffaloes <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg265" id="pg265">265</a></span> standing
+up to their dewlaps in reeds, by peasants on horseback, with goads
+in their hands, and muskets slung athwart their backs, or by
+patrols of Italian soldiers crossing and re-crossing on the
+brigand-haunted roads. Certain portions have been reclaimed from
+the swamp, and here may be seen white oxen in herds of fifty
+grazing; or gangs of women at field-labour, with a man to oversee
+them, cracking a long hunting-whip; or the mares and foals of a
+famous stud-farm browsing under spreading pines. There are no
+villages, and the few farmhouses are so widely scattered as to make
+us wonder where the herdsmen and field-workers, scanty as they are,
+can possibly be lodged.</p>
+
+<p>At last the three great temples come in sight. The rich orange
+of the central building contrasts with the paler yellow of its two
+companions, while the glowing colour of all three is splendidly
+relieved against green vegetation and blue mountain-flanks. Their
+material is travertine&mdash;a calcareous stone formed by the
+deposit of petrifying waters, which contains fragments of reeds,
+spiral shells, and other substances, embedded in the porous
+limestone. In the flourishing period of old Poseidonia these
+travertine columns were coated with stucco, worked to a smooth
+surface, and brilliantly tinted to harmonise with the gay costumes
+of a Greek festival. Even now this coating of fine sand, mingled
+with slaked lime and water, can be seen in patches on the huge
+blocks of the masonry. Thus treated, the travertine lacked little
+of the radiance of marble, for it must be remembered that the
+Greeks painted even the Pentelic cornice of the Parthenon with red
+and blue. Nor can we doubt that the general effect of brightness
+suited the glad and genial conditions of Greek life.</p>
+
+<p>All the surroundings are altered now, and the lover of the
+picturesque may be truly thankful that the hand of time, by <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg266" id="pg266">266</a></span> stripping
+the buildings of this stucco, without impairing their proportions,
+has substituted a new harmony of tone between the native stone and
+the surrounding landscape, no less sympathetic to the present
+solitude than the old symphony of colours was to the animated
+circumstances of a populous Greek city. In this way those critics
+who defend the polychrome decorations of the classic architects,
+and those who contend that they cannot imagine any alteration from
+the present toning of Greek temples for the better, are both
+right.</p>
+
+<p>In point of colour the P&aelig;stum ruins are very similar to
+those of Girgenti; but owing to their position on a level plain, in
+front of a scarcely indented sea-shore, we lack the irregularity
+which adds so much charm to the row of temples on their broken
+cliff in the old town of Agrigentum. In like manner the celebrated
+<i>asymmetreia</i> of the buildings of the Athenian Acropolis,
+which causes so much variety of light and shade upon the
+temple-fronts, and offers so many novel points of view when they
+are seen in combination, seems to have been due originally to the
+exigencies of the ground. At P&aelig;stum, in planning out the
+city, there can have been no utilitarian reasons for placing the
+temples at odd angles, either to each other or the shore. Therefore
+we see them now almost exactly in line and parallel, though at
+unequal distances. If something of picturesque effect is thus lost
+at P&aelig;stum through the flatness of the ground, something of
+impressive grandeur on the other hand is gained by the very
+regularity with which those phalanxes of massive Doric columns are
+drawn up to face the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Poseidonia, as the name betokens, was dedicated to the god of
+the sea; and the coins of the city are stamped with his effigy
+bearing a trident, and with his sacred animal, the bull. It has
+therefore been conjectured that the central of the three
+temples&mdash;which was hyp&aelig;thral and had two entrances,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg267" id="pg267">267</a></span>
+east and west&mdash;belonged to Poseidon; and there is something
+fine in the notion of the god being thus able to pass to and fro
+from his cella through those sunny peristyles, down to his chariot,
+yoked with sea-horses, in the brine. Yet hyp&aelig;thral temples
+were generally consecrated to Zeus, and it is therefore probable
+that the traditional name of this vast edifice is wrong. The names
+of the two other temples, <i>Tempio di Cerere</i> and
+<i>Basilica</i>, are wholly unsupported by any proof or
+probability. The second is almost certainly founded on a mistake;
+and if we assign the largest of the three shrines to Zeus, one or
+other of the lesser belonged most likely to Poseidon.</p>
+
+<p>The style of the temples is severe and primitive. In general
+effect their Doric architecture is far sterner than that adapted by
+Ictinus to the Parthenon. The entablature seems somewhat
+disproportioned to the columns and the pediment; and, owing to this
+cause, there is a general effect of heaviness. The columns, again,
+are thick-set; nor is the effect of solidity removed by their
+gradual narrowing from the base upwards. The pillars of the
+<i>Neptune</i> are narrowed in a straight line; those of the
+<i>Basilica</i> and <i>Ceres</i> by a gentle curve. Study of these
+buildings, so sublime in their massiveness, so noble in the
+parsimony of their decoration, so dignified in their employment of
+the simplest means for the attainment of an indestructible effect
+of harmony, heightens our admiration for the Attic genius which
+found in this grand manner of the elder Doric architects resources
+as yet undeveloped; creating, by slight and subtle alterations of
+outline, proportion, and rhythm of parts, what may fairly be
+classed as a style unique, because exemplified in only one
+transcendent building.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult not to return again and again to the beauty of
+colouring at P&aelig;stum. Lying basking in the sun upon a flat
+slab of stone, and gazing eastward, we overlook a foreground of
+dappled light and shadow, across which the lizards run&mdash; <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg268" id="pg268">268</a></span> quick
+streaks of living emerald&mdash;making the bunches of yellow rue
+and little white serpyllum in the fissures of the masonry nod as
+they hurry past. Then come two stationary columns, built, it seems,
+of solid gold, where the sunbeams strike along their russet
+surface. Between them lies the landscape, a medley first of
+brakefern and asphodel and feathering acanthus and blue spikes of
+bugloss; then a white farm in the middle distance, roofed with the
+reddest tiles and sheltered by a velvety umbrella pine. Beyond and
+above the farm, a glimpse of mountains purple almost to indigo with
+cloud shadows, and flecked with snow. Still higher&mdash;but for
+this we have to raise our head a little&mdash;the free heavens
+enclosed within the frame-work of the tawny travertine, across
+which sail hawks and flutter jackdaws, sharply cut against the
+solid sky. Down from the architrave, to make the vignette perfect,
+hang tufts of crimson snapdragons. Each opening in the peristyle
+gives a fresh picture.</p>
+
+<p>The temples are overgrown with snapdragons and mallows, yellow
+asters and lilac gillyflowers, white allium and wild fig. When a
+breeze passes, the whole of this many-coloured tapestry waves
+gently to and fro. The fields around are flowery enough; but where
+are the roses? I suppose no one who has read his Virgil at school,
+crosses the plain from Salerno to P&aelig;stum without those words
+of the 'Georgics' ringing in his ears: <i>biferique rosaria
+P&aelig;sti</i>. They have that wonderful Virgilian charm which, by
+a touch, transforms mere daily sights and sounds, and adds poetic
+mystery to common things. The poets of ancient Rome seem to have
+felt the magic of this phrase; for Ovid has imitated the line in
+his 'Metamorphoses,' tamely substituting <i>tepidi</i> for the
+suggestive <i>biferi</i>, while again in his 'Elegies' he uses the
+same termination with <i>odorati</i> for his epithet. Martial sings
+of <i>P&aelig;stan&aelig; ros&aelig;</i> and <i>P&aelig;stani
+gloria ruris</i>. Even Ausonius, <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg269" id="pg269">269</a></span> at the very end of Latin
+literature, draws from the rosaries of P&aelig;stum a pretty
+picture of beauty doomed to premature decline:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i7">Vidi P&aelig;stano gaudere rosaria cultu</div>
+
+<div class="i8">Exoriente novo roscida Lucifero.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="blockquotwide">
+<p>'I have watched the rose-beds that luxuriate on P&aelig;stum's
+well-tilled soil, all dewy in the young light of the rising
+dawn-star.'</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>What a place indeed was this for a rose-garden, spreading far
+and wide along the fertile plain, with its deep loam reclaimed from
+swamps and irrigated by the passing of perpetual streams! But where
+are the roses now? As well ask, <i>o&ugrave; sont les neiges
+d'antan?</i></p>
+
+<p>We left Amalfi for Capri in the freshness of an early morning at
+the end of May. As we stepped into our six-oared boat the sun rose
+above the horizon, flooding the sea with gold and flashing on the
+terraces above Amalfi. High up along the mountains hung pearly and
+empurpled mists, set like resting-places between a world too
+beautiful and heaven too far for mortal feet. Not a breath of any
+wind was stirring. The water heaved with a scarcely perceptible
+swell, and the vapours lifted gradually as the sun's rays grew in
+power. Here the hills descend abruptly on the sea, ending in cliffs
+where light reflected from the water dances. Huge caverns open in
+the limestone; on their edges hang stalactites like beards, and the
+sea within sleeps dark as night. For some of these caves the
+maidenhair fern makes a shadowy curtain; and all of them might be
+the home of Proteus, or of Calypso, by whose side her mortal lover
+passed his nights in vain home-sickness:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">&epsilon;&nu; &sigma;&pi;&#941;&sigma;&sigma;&iota;
+&gamma;&lambda;&alpha;&phi;&upsilon;&rho;&omicron;&iota;&sigma;&iota;
+&pi;&alpha;&rho;' &omicron;&upsilon;&kappa;
+&epsilon;&theta;&#941;&lambda;&omega;&nu;
+&epsilon;&theta;&epsilon;&lambda;&omicron;&#973;&sigma;&eta;.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>This is a truly Odyssean journey. Soon the islands of the Sirens
+come in sight,&mdash;bare bluffs of rock, shaped like galleys <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg270" id="pg270">270</a></span> taking
+flight for the broad sea. As we row past in this ambrosial weather,
+the oarsmen keeping time and ploughing furrows in the fruitless
+fields of Nereus, it is not difficult to hear the siren
+voices&mdash;for earth and heaven and sea make melodies far above
+mortal singing. The water round the Galli&mdash;so the islands are
+now called, as antiquaries tell us, from an ancient fortress named
+Guallo&mdash;is very deep, and not a sign of habitation is to be
+seen upon them. In bygone ages they were used as prisons; and many
+doges of Amalfi languished their lives away upon those shadeless
+stones, watching the sea around them blaze like a burnished shield
+at noon, and the peaks of Capri deepen into purple when the west
+was glowing after sunset with the rose and daffodil of Southern
+twilight.</p>
+
+<p>The end of the Sorrentine promontory, Point Campanella, is
+absolutely barren&mdash;grey limestone, with the scantiest
+over-growth of rosemary and myrtle. A more desolate spot can hardly
+be imagined. But now the morning breeze springs up behind; sails
+are hoisted, and the boatmen ship their oars. Under the albatross
+wings of our lateen sails we scud across the freshening waves. The
+precipice of Capri soars against the sky, and the Bay of Naples
+expands before us with those sweeping curves and azure amplitude
+that all the poets of the world have sung. Even thus the mariners
+of ancient Hellas rounded this headland when the world was young.
+Rightly they named yon rising ground, beneath Vesuvius,
+Posilippo&mdash;rest from grief. Even now, after all those
+centuries of toil, though the mild mountain has been turned into a
+mouth of murderous fire, though Roman emperors and Spanish despots
+have done their worst to mar what nature made so perfect, we may
+here lay down the burden of our cares, gaining tranquillity by no
+mysterious lustral rites, no penitential prayers or offerings of
+holocausts, but by the influence of beauty in <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg271" id="pg271">271</a></span> the earth and
+air, and by sympathy with a people unspoiled in their healthful
+life of labour alternating with simple joy.</p>
+
+<p>The last hour of the voyage was beguiled by stories of our
+boatmen, some of whom had seen service on distant seas, while
+others could tell of risks on shore and love adventures. They
+showed us how the tunny-nets were set, and described the solitary
+life of the tunny-watchers, in their open boats, waiting to spear
+the monsters of the deep entangled in the chambers made for them
+beneath the waves. How much of &AElig;schylean imagery, I
+reflected, is drawn from this old fisher's art&mdash;the toils of
+Clytemnestra and the tragedy of Psyttaleia rising to my mind. One
+of the crew had his little son with him, a child of six years old;
+and when the boy was restless, his father spoke of Barbarossa and
+Timberio (<i>sic</i>) to keep him quiet; for the memory of the
+Moorish pirate and the mighty emperor is still alive here. The
+people of Capri are as familiar with Tiberius as the Bretons with
+King Arthur; and the hoof-mark of illustrious crime is stamped upon
+the island.</p>
+
+<p>Capri offers another example of the versatility of Southern
+Italy. If Amalfi brings back to us the naval and commercial
+prosperity of the early middle ages; if P&aelig;stuni remains a
+monument of the oldest Hellenic civilisation; Capri, at a few
+miles' distance, is dedicated to the Roman emperor who made it his
+favourite residence, when, life-weary with the world and all its
+shows, he turned these many peaks and slumbering caves into a
+summer palace for the nursing of his brain-sick phantasy. Already
+on landing, we are led to remember that from this shore was loosed
+the galley bearing that great letter&mdash;<i>verbosa et grandis
+epistola</i>&mdash;which undid Sejanus and shook Rome. Riding to
+Ana-Capri and the Salto di Tiberio, exploring the remains of his
+favourite twelve villas, and gliding over the smooth waters paved
+with the white marbles of his baths, we are for ever attended by
+the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg272" id="pg272">272</a></span>
+same forbidding spectre. Here, perchance, were the <i>sedes
+arcanarum libidinum</i> whereof Suetonius speaks; the Spintrian
+medals, found in these recesses, still bear witness that the
+biographer trusted no mere fables for the picture he has drawn.
+Here, too, below the Villa Jovis, gazing 700 feet sheer down into
+the waves, we tread the very parapet whence fell the victims of
+that maniac lust for blood. 'After long and exquisite torments,'
+says the Roman writer, 'he ordered condemned prisoners to be cast
+into the sea before his eyes; marines were stationed near to pound
+the fallen corpses with poles and oars, lest haply breath should
+linger in their limbs.' The Neapolitan Museum contains a little
+basrelief representing Tiberius, with the well-known features of
+the Claudian house, seated astride upon a donkey, with a girl
+before him. A slave is leading the beast and its burden to a
+terminal statue under an olive-tree. This curious relic, discovered
+some while since at Capri, haunted my fancy as I climbed the
+olive-planted slopes to his high villa on the Arx Tiberii. It is
+some relief, amid so much that is tragic in the associations of
+this place, to have the horrible Tiberius burlesqued and brought
+into donkey-riding relation with the tourist of to-day. And what an
+ironical revenge of time it is that his famous Salto should be
+turned into a restaurant, where the girls dance tarantella for a
+few coppers; that a toothless hermit should occupy a cell upon the
+very summit of his Villa Jovis; and that the Englishwoman's
+comfortable hotel should be called <i>Timberio</i> by the natives!
+A spiritualist might well believe that the emperor's ghost was
+forced to haunt the island, and to expiate his old atrocities by
+gazing on these modern vulgarisms.</p>
+
+<p>Few problems suggested by history are more darkly fascinating
+than the madness of despots; and of this madness, whether inherent
+in their blood or encouraged by the <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg273" id="pg273">273</a></span> circumstance of absolute
+autocracy, the emperors of the Claudian and Julian houses furnish
+the most memorable instance.<a name="FNanchor_1_54" id=
+"FNanchor_1_54" /><a href="#Footnote_1_54" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> It is this that renders Tiberius ever present to
+our memory at Capri. Nor will the student of Suetonius forget his
+even more memorable grand-nephew Caligula. The following passage is
+an episode from the biography of that imperial maniac, whose
+portrait in green basalt, with the strain of dire mental tension on
+the forehead, is still so beautiful that we are able at this
+distance of time to pity more than loathe him. 'Above all, he was
+tormented with nervous irritation, by sleeplessness; for he enjoyed
+not more than three hours of nocturnal repose, nor even these in
+pure untroubled rest, but agitated by phantasmata of portentous
+augury; as, for example, upon one occasion, among other spectral
+visions, he fancied that he saw the sea, under some definite
+impersonation, conversing with himself. Hence it was, and from this
+incapacity of sleeping, and from weariness of lying awake, that he
+had fallen into habits of ranging all night long through the
+palace, sometimes throwing himself on a couch, sometimes wandering
+along the vast corridors, watching for the earliest dawn, and
+anxiously wishing its approach.' Those corridors, or loggie, where
+Caligula spent his wakeful hours, opened perchance upon this Bay of
+Naples, if not upon the sea-waves of his favourite Porto d'Anzio;
+for we know that one of his great follies was a palace built above
+the sea on piles at Bai&aelig;; and where else could
+<i>Pelagus</i>, with his cold azure eyes and briny locks, have more
+appropriately terrified his sleep with prophecy conveyed in dreams?
+The very nature of this vision, selected for such special comment
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg274" id="pg274">274</a></span> by
+Suetonius as to show that it had troubled Caligula profoundly,
+proves the fantastic nature of the man, and justifies the
+hypothesis of insanity.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_54" id="Footnote_1_54" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_54"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> De
+Quincey, in his essay on <i>The C&aelig;sars</i>, has worked out
+this subject with such artistic vividness that no more need be
+said. From his pages I have quoted the paraphrastic version of
+Suetonius that follows.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But it is time to shake off the burden of the past. Only
+students, carrying superfluity of culture in their knapsacks, will
+ponder over the imperial lunatics who made Capri and Bai&aelig;
+fashionable in the days of ancient Rome. Neither Tiberius nor
+Caligula, nor yet Ferdinand of Aragon or Bomba for that matter, has
+been able to leave trace of vice or scar of crime on nature in this
+Eden. A row round the island, or a supper-party in the loggia above
+the sea at sunset-time, is no less charming now, in spite of Roman
+or Spanish memories, than when the world was young.</p>
+
+<p>Sea-mists are frequent in the early summer mornings, swathing
+the cliffs of Capri in impenetrable wool and brooding on the
+perfectly smooth water till the day-wind rises. Then they disappear
+like magic, rolling in smoke-wreaths from the surface of the sea,
+condensing into clouds and climbing the hillsides like Oceanides in
+quest of Prometheus, or taking their station on the watch-towers of
+the world, as in the chorus of the <i>Nephelai</i>. Such a morning
+may be chosen for the <i>giro</i> of the island. The blue grotto
+loses nothing of its beauty, but rather gains by contrast, when
+passing from dense fog you find yourself transported to a world of
+wavering subaqueous sheen. It is only through the opening of the
+very topmost arch that a boat can glide into this cavern; the arch
+itself spreads downward through the water, so that all the light is
+transmitted from beneath and coloured by the sea. The grotto is
+domed in many chambers; and the water is so clear that you can see
+the bottom, silvery, with black-finned fishes diapered upon the
+blue white sand. The flesh of a diver in this water showed like the
+faces of children playing at snapdragon; all around him the spray
+leapt up with <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg275" id=
+"pg275">275</a></span> living fire; and when the oars struck the
+surface, it was as though a phosphorescent sea had been smitten,
+and the drops ran from the blades in blue pearls. I have only once
+seen anything (outside the magic-world of a pantomime) to equal
+these effects of blue and silver; and that was when I made my way
+into an ice-cave in the Great Aletsch glacier&mdash;not an
+artificial gallery such as they cut at Grindelwald, but a natural
+cavern, arched, hollowed into fanciful recesses, and hung with
+stalactites of pendent ice. The difference between the
+glacier-cavern and the sea-grotto was that in the former all the
+light was transmitted through transparent sides, so that the whole
+was one uniform azure, except in rare places where little chinks
+opened upwards to the air, and the light of day came glancing with
+a roseate flush. In the latter the light sent from beneath through
+the water played upon a roof of rock; reflections intermingled with
+translucence; and a greater variety of light and shadow compensated
+the lack of that strange sense of being shut within a solid
+gem.</p>
+
+<p>Numberless are the caves at Capri. The so-called green grotto
+has the beauty of moss-agate in its liquid floor; the red grotto
+shows a warmer chord of colour; and where there is no other charm
+to notice, endless beauty may be found in the play of sunlight upon
+roofs of limestone, tinted with yellow, orange, and pale pink,
+mossed over, hung with fern, and catching tones of blue or green
+from the still deeps beneath.</p>
+
+<p>Sheets of water, wherever found, are the most subtle heighteners
+of colour. To those who are familiar with Venetian or Mantuan
+sunsets, who have seen the flocks of flamingoes reflected on the
+lagoons of Tunis, or who have watched stormy red flakes tossed from
+crest to crest of great Atlantic waves on our own coasts, this need
+hardly be said. Yet I cannot leave this beauty of the sea at Capri
+without <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg276" id=
+"pg276">276</a></span> touching on a melodrama of light and colour
+I once saw at Castellammare. It was a festa night, when the people
+sent up rockets and fireworks of every hue from the
+harbour-breakwater. The surf rolled shoreward like a bath of molten
+metals, all confused of blue, and red, and green, and
+gold&mdash;dying dolphin tints that burned strangely beneath the
+purple skies and tranquil stars. Boats at sea hung out their
+crimson cressets, flickering in long lines on the bay; and larger
+craft moved slowly with rows of lamps defining their curves; while
+the full moon shed over all her 'vitreous pour, just tinged with
+blue.' To some tastes this mingling of natural and artificial
+effects would seem unworthy of sober notice; but I confess to
+having enjoyed it with childish eagerness like music never to be
+forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>After a day upon the water it is pleasant to rest at sunset in
+the loggia above the sea. The Bay of Naples stretches far and wide
+in front, beautiful by reason chiefly of the long fine line
+descending from Vesuvius, dipping almost to a level and then
+gliding up to join the highlands of the north. Now sun and moon
+begin to mingle: waning and waxing splendours. The cliffs above our
+heads are still blushing a deep flame-colour, like the heart of
+some tea-rose; when lo, the touch of the huntress is laid upon
+those eastern pinnacles, and the horizon glimmers with her rising.
+Was it on such a night that Ferdinand of Aragon fled from his
+capital before the French, with eyes turned ever to the land he
+loved, chanting, as he leaned from his galley's stern, that
+melancholy psalm&mdash;'Except the Lord keep the city, the watchman
+waketh but in vain'&mdash;and seeing Naples dwindle to a white blot
+on the purple shore?</p>
+
+<p>Our journey takes the opposite direction. Farewell to Capri,
+welcome to Sorrento! The roads are sweet with scent of acacia and
+orange flowers. When you walk in a garden at <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg277" id="pg277">277</a></span> night, the
+white specks beneath your feet are fallen petals of lemon blossoms.
+Over the walls hang cataracts of roses, honey-pale clusters of the
+Banksia rose, and pink bushes of the China rose, growing as we
+never see them grow with us. The grey rocks wave with
+gladiolus&mdash;feathers of crimson, set amid tufts of rosemary,
+and myrtle, and tree-spurge. In the clefts of the sandstone, and
+behind the orchard walls, sleeps a dark green night of foliage, in
+the midst of which gleam globed oranges, and lemons dropping like
+great pearls of palest amber dew. It is difficult to believe that
+the lemons have not grown into length by their own weight, as
+though mere hanging on the bough prevented them from being
+round&mdash;so waxen are they. Overhead soar stone-pines&mdash;a
+roof of sombre green, a lattice-work of strong red branches,
+through which the moon peers wonderfully. One part of this
+marvellous <i>piano</i> is bare rock tufted with keen-scented
+herbs, and sparsely grown with locust-trees and olives. Another
+waves from sea to summit with beech-copses and oak-woods, as
+verdant as the most abundant English valley. Another region turns
+its hoary raiment of olive-gardens to the sun and sea, or
+flourishes with fig and vine. Everywhere, the houses of men are
+dazzling white, perched on natural coigns of vantage, clustered on
+the brink of brown cliffs, nestling under mountain eaves, or piled
+up from the sea-beach in ascending tiers, until the broad knees of
+the hills are reached, and great Pan, the genius of solitude in
+nature, takes unto himself a region yet untenanted by man. The
+occupations of the sea and land are blent together on this shore;
+and the people are both blithe and gentle. It is true that their
+passions are upon the surface, and that the knife is ready to their
+hand. But the combination of fierceness and softness in them has an
+infinite charm when one has learned by observation that their lives
+are laborious and frugal, and that <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg278" id="pg278">278</a></span> their honesty is hardly less than
+their vigour. Happy indeed are they&mdash;so happy that, but for
+crimes accumulated through successive generations by bad governors,
+and but for superstitions cankering the soul within, they might
+deserve what Shelley wrote of his imagined island in
+'Epipsychidion.'</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg279" id=
+"pg279">279</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="ETNA" id="ETNA" /><i>ETNA</i></h3>
+
+<p>The eruptions of Etna have blackened the whole land for miles in
+every direction. That is the first observation forced upon one in
+the neighbourhood of Catania, or Giarre, or Bronte. From whatever
+point of view you look at Etna, it is always a regular pyramid,
+with long and gradually sloping sides, broken here and there by the
+excrescence of minor craters and dotted over with villages; the
+summit crowned with snow, divided into peak and cone, girdled with
+clouds, and capped with smoke, that shifts shape as the wind veers,
+dominates a blue-black monstrous mass of outpoured lava. From the
+top of Monte Rosso, a subordinate volcano which broke into eruption
+in 1669, you can trace the fountain from which 'the unapproachable
+river of purest fire,' that nearly destroyed Catania, issued. You
+see it still, bubbling up like a frozen geyser from the flank of
+the mountain, whence the sooty torrent spreads, or rather sprawls,
+with jagged edges to the sea. The plain of Catania lies at your
+feet, threaded by the Simeto, bounded by the promontory of Syracuse
+and the mountains of Castro Giovanni. This huge amorphous blot upon
+the landscape may be compared to an ink-stain on a variegated
+tablecloth, or to the coal districts marked upon a geological
+atlas, or to the heathen in a missionary map&mdash;the green and
+red and grey colours standing for Christians and Mahommedans and
+Jews of different shades and qualities. The lava, where it has been
+cultivated, is reduced to fertile <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg280" id="pg280">280</a></span> sand, in which vines and
+fig-trees are planted&mdash;their tender green foliage contrasting
+strangely with the sinister soil that makes them flourish. All the
+roads are black as jet, like paths leading to coal-pits, and the
+country-folk on mule-back plodding along them look like Arabs on an
+infernal Sahara. The very lizards which haunt the rocks are swart
+and smutty. Yet the flora of the district is luxuriant. The gardens
+round Catania, nestling into cracks and ridges of the stiffened
+flood, are marvellously brilliant with spurge and fennel and
+valerian. It is impossible to form a true conception of
+flower-brightness till one has seen these golden and crimson tints
+upon their ground of ebony, or to realise the blueness of the
+Mediterranean except in contrast with the lava where it breaks into
+the sea. Copses of frail oak and ash, undergrown with ferns of
+every sort; cactus-hedges, orange-trees grafted with lemons and
+laden with both fruits; olives of scarce two centuries' growth, and
+fig-trees knobbed with their sweet produce, overrun the sombre
+soil, and spread their boughs against the deep blue sea and the
+translucent amethyst of the Calabrian mountains. Underfoot, a
+convolvulus with large white blossoms, binding dingy stone to
+stone, might be compared to a rope of Desdemona's pearls upon the
+neck of Othello.</p>
+
+<p>The villages are perhaps the most curious feature of this
+scenery. Their houses, rarely more than one story high, are walled,
+paved, and often roofed with the inflexible material which once was
+ruinous fire, and is now the servant of the men it threatened to
+destroy. The churches are such as might be raised in Hades to
+implacable Proserpine, such as one might dream of in a vision of
+the world turned into hell, such as Baudelaire in his fiction of a
+metallic landscape might have imagined under the influence of
+hasheesh. Their flights of steps are built of sharply cut black
+lava blocks no <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg281" id=
+"pg281">281</a></span> feet can wear. Their door-jambs and columns
+and pediments and carved work are wrought and sculptured of the
+same gloomy masonry. How forbidding are the acanthus scrolls, how
+grim the skulls and cross-bones on these portals! The bell-towers,
+again, are ribbed and beamed with black lava. A certain amount of
+the structure is whitewashed, which serves to relieve the funereal
+solemnity of the rest. In an Indian district each of these churches
+would be a temple, raised in vain propitiation to the demon of the
+fire above and below. Some pictures made by their spires in
+combination with the sad village-hovels, the snowy dome of Etna,
+and the ever-smiling sea, are quite unique in their variety of
+suggestion and wild beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The people have a sorrow-smitten and stern aspect. Some of the
+men in the prime of life are grand and haughty, with the
+cast-bronze countenance of Roman emperors. But the old men bear
+rigid faces of carved basalt, gazing fixedly before them as though
+at some time or other in their past lives they had met Medusa: and
+truly Etna in eruption is a Gorgon, which their ancestors have
+oftentimes seen shuddering, and fled from terror-frozen. The
+white-haired old women, plying their spindle or distaff, or
+meditating in grim solitude, sit with the sinister set features of
+Fates by their doorways. The young people are very rarely seen to
+smile: they open hard, black, beaded eyes upon a world in which
+there is little for them but endurance or the fierceness of
+passions that delight in blood. Strangely different are these
+dwellers on the sides of Etna from the voluble, lithe sailors of
+Sciacca or Mazara, with their sunburnt skins and many-coloured
+garments.</p>
+
+<p>The Val del Bove&mdash;a vast chasm in the flank of Etna, where
+the very heart of the volcano has been riven and its entrails
+bared&mdash;is the most impressive spot of all this region. <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg282" id="pg282">282</a></span> The road
+to it leads from Zafferana (so called because of its
+crocus-flowers) along what looks like a series of black moraines,
+where the lava torrents pouring from the craters of Etna have
+spread out, and reared themselves in stiffened ridges against
+opposing mountain buttresses. After toiling for about three hours
+over the dismal waste, a point between the native rock of Etna and
+the dead sea of lava is reached, which commands a prospect of the
+cone with its curling smoke surmounting a caldron of some four
+thousand feet in depth and seemingly very wide. The whole of this
+space is filled with billows of blackness, wave on wave, crest over
+crest, and dyke by dyke, precisely similar to a gigantic glacier,
+swarthy and immovable. The resemblance of the lava flood to a
+glacier is extraordinarily striking. One can fancy oneself standing
+on the Belvedere at Macugnaga, or the Tacul point upon the Mer de
+Glace, in some nightmare, and finding to one's horror that the
+radiant snows and river-breeding ice-fields have been turned by a
+malignant deity to sullen, stationary cinders. It is a most hideous
+place, like a pit in Dante's Hell, disused for some unexplained
+reason, and left untenanted by fiends. The scenery of the moon,
+without atmosphere and without life, must be of this sort; and
+such, rolling round in space, may be some planet that has survived
+its own combustion. When the clouds, which almost always hang about
+the Val del Bove, are tumbling at their awful play around its
+precipices, veiling the sweet suggestion of distant sea and happier
+hills that should be visible, the horror of this view is
+aggravated. Breaking here and there, the billows of mist disclose
+forlorn tracts of jet-black desolation, wicked, unutterable,
+hateful in their hideousness, with patches of smutty snow above,
+and downward-rolling volumes of murky smoke. Shakspere, when he
+imagined the damned spirits confined to 'thrilling regions of
+thick-ribbed ice,' <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg283" id=
+"pg283">283</a></span> divined the nature of a glacier; but what
+line could he have composed, adequate to shadow forth the tortures
+of a soul condemned to palpitate for ever between the ridges of
+this thirsty and intolerable sea of dead fire? If the world-spirit
+chose to assume for itself the form and being of a dragon, of like
+substance to this, impenetrable, invulnerable, unapproachable would
+be its hide. It requires no great stretch of the imagination to
+picture these lava lakes glowing, as they must have been, when
+first outpoured, the bellowing of the crater, the heaving and
+surging of the solid earth, the air obstructed with cinders and
+whizzing globes of molten rock. Yet in these throes of devilish
+activity, the Val del Bove would be less insufferable than in its
+present state of suspension, asleep, but threatening, ready to
+regurgitate its flame, but for a moment inert.</p>
+
+<p>An hour's drive from Nicolosi or Zafferana, seaward, brings one
+into the richest land of 'olive and aloe and maize and vine' to be
+found upon the face of Europe. Here, too, are laughing little
+towns, white, prosperous, and gleeful, the very opposite of those
+sad stations on the mountain-flank. Every house in Aci Reale has
+its courtyard garden filled with orange-trees, and nespole, and
+fig-trees, and oleanders. From the grinning corbels that support
+the balconies hang tufts of gem-bright ferns and glowing
+clove-pinks. Pergolas of vines, bronzed in autumn, and golden green
+like chrysoprase beneath an April sun, fling their tendrils over
+white walls and shady loggie. Gourds hang ripening in the steady
+blaze. Far and wide stretches a landscape rich with tilth and
+husbandry, boon Nature paying back to men tenfold for all their
+easy toil. The terrible great mountain sleeps in the distance
+innocent of fire. I know not whether this land be more delightful
+in spring or autumn. The little flamelike flakes of brightness upon
+vines and fig-trees in April have their <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg284" id="pg284">284</a></span> own peculiar charm. But in
+November the whole vast flank of Etna glows with the deep-blue tone
+of steel; the russet woods are like a film of rust; the vine-boughs
+thrust living carbuncles against the sun. To this season, when the
+peculiar earth-tints of Etna, its strong purples and tawny browns,
+are harmonised with the decaying wealth of forest and of orchard, I
+think the palm of beauty must be given in this land.</p>
+
+<p>The sea is an unchangeable element of charm in all this
+landscape. Aci Castello should be visited, and those strange rocks,
+called the Ciclopidi, forced by volcanic pressure from beneath the
+waves. They are made of black basalt like the Giant's Causeway; and
+on their top can be traced the caps of calcareous stone they
+carried with them in the fret and fury of their upheaval from the
+sea-bed. Samphire, wild fennel, cactus, and acanthus clothe them
+now from crest to basement where the cliff is not too sheer. By the
+way, there are few plants more picturesque than the acanthus in
+full flower. Its pale lilac spikes of blossom stand waist-high
+above a wilderness of feathering, curving, delicately indented,
+burnished leaves&mdash;deep, glossy, cool, and green.</p>
+
+<p>This is the place for a child's story of the one-eyed giant
+Polyphemus, who fed his flocks among the oak-woods of Etna, and
+who, strolling by the sea one summer evening, saw and loved the
+fair girl Galatea. She was afraid of him, and could not bear his
+shaggy-browed round rolling eye. But he forgot his sheep and goats,
+and sat upon the cliffs and piped to her. Meanwhile she loved the
+beautiful boy Acis, who ran down from the copse to play with her
+upon the sea-beach. They hid together from Polyphemus in a
+fern-curtained cavern of the shore. But Polyphemus spied them out
+and heard them laughing together at their games. Then he grew
+wroth, and stamped with his huge feet upon the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg285" id="pg285">285</a></span> earth, and made
+it shake and quiver. He roared and bellowed in his rage, and tore
+up rocks and flung them at the cavern where the children were in
+hiding, and his eye shot fire beneath the grisly pent-house of his
+wrinkled brows. They, in their sore distress, prayed to heaven; and
+their prayers were heard: Galatea became a mermaid, so that she
+might swim and sport like foam upon the crests of the blue sea; and
+Acis was changed into a stream that leapt from the hills to play
+with her amid bright waters. But Polyphemus, in punishment for his
+rage, and spite, and jealousy, was forced to live in the
+mid-furnaces of Etna. There he growled and groaned and shot forth
+flame in impotent fury; for though he remembered the gladness of
+those playfellows, and sought to harm them by tossing red-hot rocks
+upon the shore, yet the light sea ever laughed, and the radiant
+river found its way down from the copsewood to the waves. The
+throes of Etna in convulsion are the pangs of his great giant's
+heart, pent up and sick with love for the bright sea and gladsome
+sun; for, as an old poet sings:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i3">There's love when holy heaven doth wound the
+earth;</div>
+
+<div class="i3">And love still prompts the land to yearn for
+bridals:</div>
+
+<div class="i3">The rain that falls in rivers from the sky,</div>
+
+<div class="i3">Impregnates earth: and she brings forth for
+men</div>
+
+<div class="i3">The flocks and herds and life of teeming
+Ceres.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>To which let us add:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">But sometimes love is barren, when broad
+hills,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Rent with the pangs of passion, yearn in
+vain,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Pouring fire tears adown their furrowed
+cheeks,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And heaving in the impotence of anguish.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are few places in Europe where the poetic truth of Greek
+mythology is more apparent than here upon the coast between Etna
+and the sea. Of late, philosophers have been eager to tell us that
+the beautiful legends of the Greeks, which <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg286" id="pg286">286</a></span> contain in the coloured haze
+of fancy all the thoughts afterwards expressed by that divine race
+in poetry and sculpture, are but decayed phrases, dead sentences,
+and words whereof the meaning was forgotten. In this theory there
+is a certain truth; for mythology stands midway between the first
+lispings of a nation in its language, and its full-developed
+utterances in art. Yet we have only to visit the scenes which gave
+birth to some Hellenic myth, and we perceive at once that, whatever
+philology may affirm, the legend was a living poem, a drama of life
+and passion transferred from human experience to the inanimate
+world by those early myth-makers, who were the first and the most
+fertile of all artists. Persephone was the patroness of Sicily,
+because amid the billowy cornfields of her mother Demeter and the
+meadow flowers she loved in girlhood, are ever found sulphurous
+ravines and chasms breathing vapour from the pit of Hades. What
+were the Cyclops&mdash;that race of one-eyed giants&mdash;but the
+many minor cones of Etna? Observed from the sea by mariners, or
+vaguely spoken of by the natives, who had reason to dread their
+rage, these hillocks became lawless and devouring giants, each with
+one round burning eye. Afterwards the tales of Titans who had
+warred with Zeus were realised in this spot. Typhoeus or Enceladus
+made the mountain heave and snort; while Heph&aelig;stus not
+unnaturally forged thunder-bolts in the central caverns of a
+volcano that never ceased to smoke. To the student of art and
+literature, mythology is chiefly interesting in its latest stages,
+when, the linguistic origin of special legends being utterly
+forgotten, the poets of the race played freely with its rich
+material. Who cares to be told that Achilles was the sun, when the
+child of Thetis and the lover of Patroclus has been sung for us by
+Homer? Are the human agonies of the doomed house of Thebes made
+less appalling by tracing back the tale of OEdipus to some <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg287" id="pg287">287</a></span> prosaic
+source in old astronomy? The incest of Jocasta is the subject of
+supreme tragic art. It does not improve the matter, or whitewash
+the imagination of the Greeks, as some have fondly fancied, to
+unravel the fabric wrought by Homer and by Sophocles, into its raw
+material in Aryan dialects. Indeed, this new method of criticism
+bids fair to destroy for young minds the human lessons of pathos
+and heroism in Greek poetry, and to create an obscure conviction
+that the greatest race of artists the world has ever produced were
+but dotards, helplessly dreaming over distorted forms of speech and
+obsolete phraseology.</p>
+
+<p>Let us bid farewell to Etna from Taormina. All along the coast
+between Aci and Giardini the mountain towers distinct against a
+sunset sky&mdash;divested of its robe of cloud, translucent and
+blue as some dark sea-built crystal. The Val del Bove is shown to
+be a circular crater in which the lava has boiled and bubbled over
+to the fertile land beneath. As we reach Giardini, the young moon
+is shining, and the night is alive with stars so large and bright
+that they seem leaning down to whisper in the ears of our soul. The
+sea is calm, touched here and there on the fringes of the bays and
+headlands with silvery light; and impendent crags loom black and
+sombre against the feeble azure of the moonlit sky. <i>Quale per
+incertam lunam et sub luce malign&acirc;</i>: such is our journey,
+with Etna, a grey ghost, behind our path, and the reflections of
+stars upon the sea, and glow-worms in the hedges, and the mystical
+still splendour of the night, that, like Death, liberates the soul,
+raising it above all common things, simplifying the outlines of the
+earth as well as our own thoughts to one twilight hush of
+a&euml;rial tranquillity. It is a strange compliment to such a
+landscape to say that it recalls a scene from an opera. Yet so it
+is. What the arts of the scene-painter and the musician strive to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg288" id="pg288">288</a></span>
+suggest is here realised in fact; the mood of the soul created by
+music and by passion is natural here, spontaneous, prepared by the
+divine artists of earth, air, and sea.</p>
+
+<p>Was there ever such another theatre as this of Taormina? Turned
+to the south, hollowed from the crest of a promontory 1000 feet
+above the sea, it faces Etna with its crown of snow: below, the
+coast sweeps onward to Catania and the distant headland of
+Syracuse. From the back the shore of Sicily curves with delicately
+indented bays towards Messina: then come the straits, and the blunt
+mass of the Calabrian mountains terminating Italy at Spartivento.
+Every spot on which the eye can rest is rife with reminiscences. It
+was there, we say, looking northward to the straits, that Ulysses
+tossed between Scylla and Charybdis; there, turning towards the
+flank of Etna, that he met with Polyphemus and defied the giant
+from his galley. From yonder snow-capped eyrie,
+&Alpha;&iota;&tau;&nu;&alpha;&sigmaf;
+&sigma;&kappa;&omicron;&pi;&#943;&alpha;, the rocks were hurled on
+Acis. And all along that shore, after Persephone was lost, went
+Demeter, torch in hand, wailing for the daughter she could no more
+find among Sicilian villages. Then, leaving myths for history, we
+remember how the ships of Nikias set sail from Reggio, and coasted
+the forelands at our feet, past Naxos, on their way to Catania and
+Syracuse. Gylippus afterwards in his swift galley took the same
+course: and Dion, when he came to destroy his nephew's empire. Here
+too Timoleon landed, resolute in his firm will to purge the isle of
+tyrants.</p>
+
+<p>What scenes, more spirit-shaking than any tragic
+shows&mdash;pageants of fire and smoke, and mountains in
+commotion&mdash;are witnessed from these grassy benches, when the
+earth rocks, and the sea is troubled, and the side of Etna flows
+with flame, and night grows horrible with bellowings that forebode
+changes in empires!&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg289" id=
+"pg289">289</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i7">Quoties Cyclopum effervere in agros</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Vidimus undantem ruptis fornacibus
+&AElig;tnam,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Flammarumque globos liquefactaque volvere
+saxa.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>The stage of these tremendous pomps is very calm and peaceful
+now. Lying among acanthus leaves and asphodels, bound together by
+wreaths of white and pink convolvulus, we only feel that this is
+the loveliest landscape on which our eyes have ever rested or can
+rest. The whole scene is a symphony of blues&mdash;gemlike
+lapis-lazuli in the sea, a&euml;rial azure in the distant
+headlands, light-irradiated sapphire in the sky, and impalpable
+vapour-mantled purple upon Etna. The grey tones of the neighbouring
+cliffs, and the glowing brickwork of the ruined theatre, through
+the arches of which shine sea and hillside, enhance by contrast
+these modulations of the one prevailing hue. Etna is the dominant
+feature of the
+landscape&mdash;&Alpha;&iota;&tau;&nu;&alpha;&sigmaf;
+&mu;&alpha;&tau;&epsilon;&rho;
+&epsilon;&mu;&#940;&mdash;&pi;&omicron;&lambda;&upsilon;&delta;&#941;&nu;&delta;&rho;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&Alpha;&iota;&tau;&nu;&alpha;&sigmaf;&mdash; than which no other
+mountain is more sublimely solitary, more worthy of Pindar's
+praise, 'The pillar of heaven, the nurse of sharp eternal snow.' It
+is Etna that gives its unique character of elevated beauty to this
+coast scenery, raising it to a grander and more tragic level than
+the landscape of the Cornice and the Bay of Naples.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg290" id=
+"pg290">290</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="PALERMO" id="PALERMO" /><i>PALERMO</i></h3>
+
+<div class="center">
+<div class="smcap">the normans in sicily</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sicily, in the centre of the Mediterranean, has been throughout
+all history the meeting-place and battle-ground of the races that
+contributed to civilise the West. It was here that the Greeks
+measured their strength against Phoenicia, and that Carthage fought
+her first duel with Rome. Here the bravery of Hellenes triumphed
+over barbarian force in the victories of Gelon and Timoleon. Here,
+in the harbour of Syracuse, the Athenian Empire succumbed to its
+own intemperate ambition. Here, in the end, Rome laid her mortmain
+upon Greek, Phoenician, and Sikeliot alike, turning the island into
+a granary and reducing its inhabitants to serfdom. When the classic
+age had closed, when Belisarius had vainly reconquered from the
+Goths for the empire of the East the fair island of Persephone and
+Zeus Olympius, then came the Mussulman, filling up with an interval
+of Oriental luxury and Arabian culture the period of utter deadness
+between the ancient and the modern world. To Islam succeeded the
+conquerors of the house of Hauteville, Norman knights who had but
+lately left their Scandinavian shores, and settled in the northern
+provinces of France. The Normans flourished for a season, and were
+merged in a line of Suabian princes, old Barbarossa's progeny.
+German rulers thus came to sway the corn-lands of Trinacria, until
+the bitter hatred of the Popes extinguished the house of
+Hohenstauffen upon the battlefield <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg291" id="pg291">291</a></span> of Grandella and the scaffold of
+Naples. Frenchmen had the next turn&mdash;for a brief space only;
+since Palermo cried to the sound of her tocsins, 'Mora, Mora,' and
+the tyranny of Anjou was expunged with blood. Spain, the tardy and
+patient power, which inherited so much from the failure of more
+brilliant races, came at last, and tightened so firm a hold upon
+the island, that from the end of the thirteenth to the beginning of
+the nineteenth century, with one brief exception, Sicily belonged
+to the princes of Aragon, Castile, and Bourbon. These vicissitudes
+have left their traces everywhere. The Greek temples of Segeste and
+Girgenti and Selinus, the Roman amphitheatre of Syracuse, the
+Byzantine mosaics and Saracenic villas of Palermo, the Norman
+cathedrals of Monreale and Cefal&uacute;, and the Spanish habits
+which still characterise the life of Sicilian cities, testify to
+the successive strata of races which have been deposited upon the
+island. Amid its anarchy of tongues, the Latin alone has triumphed.
+In the time of the Greek colonists Sicily was polyglot. During the
+Saracenic occupation it was trilingual. It is now, and during
+modern history it has always been, Italian. Differences of language
+and of nationality have gradually been fused into one substance, by
+the spirit which emanates from Rome, and vivifies the Latin
+race.</p>
+
+<p>The geographical position of Sicily has always influenced its
+history in a very marked way. The eastern coast, which is turned
+towards Greece and Italy, has been the centre of Aryan civilisation
+in the island, so that during Greek and Roman ascendency Syracuse
+was held the capital. The western end, which projects into the
+African sea, was occupied in the time of the Hellenes by
+Phoenicians, and afterwards by Mussulmans: consequently Panormus,
+the ancient seat of Punic colonists, now called Palermo, became the
+centre of the Moslem rule, which, inherited entire by the Norman
+chieftains, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg292" id=
+"pg292">292</a></span> was transmitted eventually to Spain.
+Palermo, devoid of classic monuments, and unknown except as a name
+to the historians of Greek civilisation, is therefore the modern
+capital of the island. 'Prima sedes, corona regis, et regni caput,'
+is the motto inscribed upon the cathedral porch and the
+archiepiscopal throne of Palermo: nor has any other city, except
+Messina,<a name="FNanchor_1_55" id="FNanchor_1_55" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_55" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>presumed to
+contest this title.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_55" id="Footnote_1_55" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_55"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Messina, owing to its mercantile position between the Levant,
+Italy, and France, and as the key to Sicily from the mainland,
+might probably have become the modern capital had not the Normans
+found a state machinery ready to their use centralised at
+Palermo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Perhaps there are few spots upon the surface of the globe more
+beautiful than Palermo. The hills on either hand descend upon the
+sea with long-drawn delicately broken outlines, so exquisitely
+tinted with a&euml;rial hues, that at early dawn or beneath the
+blue light of a full moon the panorama seems to be some fabric of
+the fancy, that must fade away, 'like shapes of clouds we form,' to
+nothing. Within the cradle of these hills, and close upon the
+tideless water, lies the city. Behind and around on every side
+stretches the famous <i>Conca d'Oro</i>, or golden shell, a plain
+of marvellous fertility, so called because of its richness and also
+because of its shape; for it tapers to a fine point where the
+mountains meet, and spreads abroad, where they diverge, like a
+cornucopia, toward the sea. The whole of this long vega is a
+garden, thick with olive-groves and orange-trees, with orchards of
+nespole and palms and almonds, with fig-trees and locust-trees,
+with judas-trees that blush in spring, and with flowers as
+multitudinously brilliant as the fretwork of sunset clouds. It was
+here that in the days of the Kelbite dynasty, the sugar-cane and
+cotton-tree and mulberry supplied both East and West with produce
+for the banquet and the paper-mill and the silk-loom; and though
+these industries are now neglected, vast gardens of <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg293" id="pg293">293</a></span> cactuses still
+give a strangely Oriental character to the scenery of Palermo,
+while the land flows with honey-sweet wine instead of sugar. The
+language in which Arabian poets extolled the charms of this fair
+land is even now nowise extravagant: 'Oh how beautiful is the
+lakelet of the twin palms, and the island where the spacious palace
+stands! The limpid water of the double springs resembles liquid
+pearls, and their basin is a sea: you would say that the branches
+of the trees stretched down to see the fishes in the pool and smile
+at them. The great fishes swim in those clear waters, and the birds
+among the gardens tune their songs. The ripe oranges of the island
+are like fire that burns on boughs of emerald; the pale lemon
+reminds me of a lover who has passed the night in weeping for his
+absent darling. The two palms may be compared to lovers who have
+gained an inaccessible retreat against their enemies, or raise
+themselves erect in pride to confound the murmurs and ill thoughts
+of jealous men. O palms of the two lakelets of Palermo, may
+ceaseless, undisturbed, and plenteous dews for ever keep your
+freshness!' Such is the poetry which suits the environs of Palermo,
+where the Moorish villas of La Zisa and La Cuba and La Favara still
+stand, and where the modern gardens, though wilder, are scarcely
+less delightful than those beneath which King Roger discoursed with
+Edrisi, and Gian da Procida surprised his sleeping mistress.<a
+name="FNanchor_1_56" id="FNanchor_1_56" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_56" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The groves of
+oranges and lemons are an inexhaustible source of joy: not only
+because of their 'golden lamps in a green night,' but also because
+of their silvery constellations, nebul&aelig;, and drifts of stars,
+in the same green night, and milky ways of blossoms on the ground
+beneath. As in all southern scenery, the transition from these
+perfumed thickly clustering gardens to the bare unirrigated
+hillsides is very striking. There the dwarf-palm <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg294" id="pg294">294</a></span> tufts with its
+spiky foliage the clefts of limestone rock, and the lizards run in
+and out among bushes of tree-spurge and wild cactus and grey
+asphodels. The sea-shore is a tangle of lilac and oleander and
+laurustinus and myrtle and lentisk and cytisus and geranium. The
+flowering plants that make our shrubberies gay in spring with
+blossoms, are here wild, running riot upon the sand-heaps of
+Mondello or beneath the barren slopes of Monte Pellegrino.</p>
+
+<p>It was into this terrestrial paradise, cultivated through two
+preceding centuries by the Arabs, who of all races were wisest in
+the arts of irrigation and landscape-gardening, that the Norsemen
+entered as conquerors, and lay down to pass their lives.<a name=
+"FNanchor_2_57" id="FNanchor_2_57" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_57" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_56" id="Footnote_1_56" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_56"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Boccaccio, Giorn. v. Nov. 6.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_57" id="Footnote_2_57" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_57"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The
+Saracens possessed themselves of Sicily by a gradual conquest,
+which began about 827 A.D. Disembarking on the little isle of
+Pantellaria and the headland of Lilyboeum, where of old the
+Carthaginians used to enter Sicily, they began by overrunning the
+island for the first four years. In 831 they took Palermo; during
+the next ten years they subjugated the Val di Mazara; between 841
+and 859 they possessed themselves of the Val di Noto; after this
+they extended their conquest over the seaport towns of the Val
+Demone, but neglected to reduce the whole of the N.E. district.
+Syracuse was stormed and reduced to ruins after a desperate defence
+in 878, while Leo, the heir of the Greek Empire, contented himself
+with composing two Anacreontic elegies on the disaster at
+Byzantium. In 895 Sicily was wholly lost to the Greeks, by a treaty
+signed between the Saracens and the remaining Christian towns. The
+Christians during the Mussulman occupation were divided into four
+classes&mdash;(1) A few independent municipalities obedient loosely
+to the Greek Empire; (2) tributaries who paid the Arabs what they
+would otherwise have sent to Byzantium; (3) vassals, whose towns
+had fallen by arms or treaty into the hands of the conquerors, and
+who, though their property was respected and religion tolerated,
+were called 'dsimmi' or 'humbled;' (4) serfs, prisoners of war,
+sold as slaves or attached to the soil (<i>Amari</i>, vol. i.).</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>No chapter of history more resembles a romance than that which
+records the sudden rise and brief splendour of the house of
+Hauteville. In one generation the sons of Tancred passed from the
+condition of squires in the Norman vale of <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg295" id="pg295">295</a></span> Cotentin, to kinghood in the
+richest island of the southern sea. The Norse adventurers became
+Sultans of an Oriental capital. The sea-robbers assumed together
+with the sceptre the culture of an Arabian court. The marauders
+whose armies burned Rome, received at papal hands the mitre and
+dalmatic as symbols of ecclesiastical jurisdiction.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_58" id="FNanchor_1_58" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_58" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The brigands who
+on their first appearance in Italy had pillaged stables and
+farmyards to supply their needs, lived to mate their daughters with
+princes and to sway the politics of Europe with gold. The
+freebooters, whose skill consisted in the use of sword and shield,
+whose brains were vigorous in strategy or statecraft, and whose
+pleasures were confined to the hunting-field and the wine-cup,
+raised villas like the Zisa and encrusted the cathedral of Monreale
+with mosaics. Finally, while the race was yet vigorous, after
+giving two heroes to the first Crusade, it transmitted its titles,
+its temper, and its blood to the great Emperor, who was destined to
+fight out upon the battlefield of Italy the strife of Empire
+against Papacy, and to bequeath to medi&aelig;val Europe the
+tradition of cosmopolitan culture. The physical energy of this
+brood of heroes was such as can scarcely be paralleled in history.
+Tancred de Hauteville begat two families by different wives. Of his
+children twelve were sons; two of whom stayed with their father in
+Normandy, while ten sought fame and found a kingdom in the south.
+Of these, William Iron Arm, the first Count of Apulia; Robert
+Guiscard, who united Calabria and Apulia under one dukedom, and
+carried victorious arms against both Emperors of East and West; and
+Roger the Great Count, who added Sicily to the conquests of the
+Normans and bequeathed the kingdom of South Italy to his son, rose
+to the highest name. But all the brothers shared <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg296" id="pg296">296</a></span> the great
+qualities of the house; and two of them, Humphrey and Drogo, also
+wore a coronet. Large of limb and stout of heart, persevering under
+difficulties, crafty yet gifted with the semblance of sincerity,
+combining the piety of pilgrims with the morals of highwaymen, the
+sturdiness of barbarians with the plasticity of culture, eloquent
+in the council-chamber and the field, dear to their soldiers for
+their bravery and to women for their beauty, equally eminent as
+generals and as rulers, restrained by no scruples but such as
+policy suggested, restless in their energy, yet neither fickle nor
+rash, comprehensive in their views, but indefatigable in detail,
+these lions among men were made to conquer in the face of
+overwhelming obstacles, and to hold their conquests with a grasp of
+iron. What they wrought, whether wisely or not for the ultimate
+advantage of Italy, endures to this day, while the work of so many
+emperors, republics, and princes has passed and shifted like the
+scenes in a pantomime. Through them the Greeks, the Lombards, and
+the Moors were extinguished in the south. The Papacy was checked in
+its attempt to found a province of S. Peter below the Tiber. The
+republics of Naples, Gaeta, Amalfi, which might have rivalled
+perchance with Milan, Genoa, and Florence, were subdued to a
+master's hand. In short, to the Normans Italy owed that kingdom of
+the Two Sicilies which formed one-third of her political balance,
+and which proved the cause of all her most serious revolutions.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_58" id="Footnote_1_58" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_58"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> King
+Roger in the mosaics of the Martorana Church at Palermo wears the
+dalmatic, and receives his crown from the hands of Christ.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Roger, the youngest of the Hauteville family, and the founder of
+the kingdom of Sicily, showed by his untamable spirit and sound
+intellect that his father's vigour remained unexhausted. Each of
+Tancred's sons was physically speaking a masterpiece, and the last
+was the prime work of all. This Roger, styled the Great Count,
+begat a second Roger, the first King of Sicily, whose son and
+grandson, both named William, ruled in succession at Palermo. With
+them the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg297" id=
+"pg297">297</a></span> direct line of the house of Hauteville
+expired. It would seem as if the energy and fertility of the stock
+had been drained by its efforts in the first three generations.
+Constance, the heiress of the family, who married Henry VI. and
+gave birth to the Emperor Frederick II., was daughter of King
+Roger, and therefore third in descent from Tancred. Drawing her
+blood more immediately from the parent stem, she thus transmitted
+to the princes of the race of Hohenstauffen the vigour of her
+Norman ancestry unweakened. This was a circumstance of no small
+moment in the history of Europe. Upon the fierce and daring Suabian
+stem were grafted the pertinacity, the cunning, the versatility of
+the Norman adventurers. Young Frederick, while strong and subtle
+enough to stand for himself against the world, was so finely
+tempered by the blended strains of his parentage that he received
+the polish of an Oriental education without effeminacy. Called upon
+to administer the affairs of Germany, to govern Italy, to contend
+with the Papacy, and to settle by arms and treaties the great
+Oriental question of his days, Frederick, cosmopolitan from the
+cradle, was equal to the task. Had Europe been but ready, the
+Renaissance would have dated from his reign, and a universal
+empire, if not of political government, yet of intellectual
+culture, might have been firmly instituted.</p>
+
+<p>Of the personal appearance of the Norman chiefs&mdash;their fair
+hair, clear eyes, and broad shoulders&mdash;we hear much from the
+chroniclers. One minutely studied portrait will serve to bring the
+whole race vividly before us. Bohemond, Prince of Tarentum, the son
+of Robert Guiscard, and first cousin to Tancred of Montferrat, was
+thus described by Anna Comnena, who saw him at her father's court
+during the first Crusade: 'Neither amongst our own nation (the
+Greeks), nor amongst foreigners, is there in our age a man equal to
+Bohemond. His presence dazzled the eyes, as his reputation the
+fancy. <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg298" id=
+"pg298">298</a></span> He was one cubit taller than the tallest man
+known. In his waist he was thin, but broad in his shoulders and
+chest, without being either too thin or too fat. His arms were
+strong, his hands full and large, his feet firm and solid. He
+stooped a little, but through habit only, and not on account of any
+deformity. He was fair, but on his cheeks there was an agreeable
+mixture of vermilion. His hair was not loose over his shoulders,
+according to the fashion of the barbarians, but was cut above his
+ears. His eyes were blue, and full of wrath and fierceness. His
+nostrils were large, inasmuch as having a wide chest and a great
+heart, his lungs required an unusual quantity of air to moderate
+the warmth of his blood. His handsome face had in itself something
+gentle and softening, but the height of his person and the
+fierceness of his looks had something wild and terrible. He was
+more dreadful in his smiles than others in their rage.' When we
+read this description, remembering the romance of Bohemond's
+ancestry and his own life, we do not wonder at the tales of
+chivalry. Those 'knights of Logres and of Lyoness, Lancelot or
+Pelleas or Pellenore,' with whose adventures our tawny-haired
+magnificent Plantagenets amused their leisure, become realities.
+The manly beauty, described by the Byzantine princess in words
+which seem to betray a more than common interest in her handsome
+foe, was hereditary in the house of Hauteville. They transmitted it
+to the last of the Suabian dynasty, to Manfred and Conradin, and to
+the king Enzio, whose long golden hair fell down from his shoulders
+to his saddle-bow as he rode, a captive, into Bologna.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the Norman conquest is told by two
+chroniclers&mdash;William of Apulia, who received his materials
+from Robert Guiscard, and Godfrey Malaterra, who wrote down the
+oral narrative of Roger. Thus we possess what is tantamount to
+personal memoirs of the Norman chiefs. Nevertheless, a veil <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg299" id="pg299">299</a></span> of
+legendary romance obscures the first appearance of the Scandinavian
+warriors upon the scene of history. William of Apulia tells how, in
+the course of a pilgrimage to S. Michael's shrine on Monte Gargano,
+certain knights of Normandy were accosted by a stranger of imposing
+aspect, who persuaded them to draw their swords in the quarrel of
+the Lombard towns of South Italy against the Greeks. This man was
+Melo of Bari. Whether his invitation were so theatrically conveyed
+or not, it is probable that the Norsemen made their first
+acquaintance with Apulia on a pilgrimage to the Italian Michael's
+mount; and it is certain that Melo, whom we dimly descry as a
+patriot of enlarged views and indomitable constancy, provided them
+with arms and horses, raised troops in Salerno and Benevento to
+assist them, and directed them against the Greeks. This happened in
+1017. Twelve years later we find the town of Aversa built and
+occupied by Normans under the control of their Count Rainulf; while
+another band, headed by Ardoin, a Lombard of Milan, lived at large
+upon the country, selling its services to the Byzantine Greeks. In
+the anarchy of Southern Italy at this epoch, when the decaying
+Empire of the East was relaxing its hold upon the Apulian
+provinces, when the Papacy was beginning to lift up its head after
+the ignominy of Theodora and Marozia, and the Lombard power was
+slowly dissolving upon its ill-established foundations, the Norman
+adventurers pursued a policy which, however changeful, was
+invariably self-advantageous. On whatever side they fought, they
+took care that the profits of war should accrue to their own
+colony. Quarrel as they might among themselves, they were always
+found at one against a common foe. And such was their reputation in
+the field, that the hardiest soldiers errant of all nations joined
+their standard. Thus it fell out that when Ardoin and his Normans
+had helped Maniaces to wrest the eastern districts of Sicily from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg300" id="pg300">300</a></span> the
+Moors, they returned, upon an insult offered by the Greek general,
+to extend the right hand of fellowship to Rainulf and his Normans
+of Aversa. 'Why should you stay here like a rat in his hole, when
+with our help you might rule those fertile plains, expelling the
+women in armour who keep guard over them?' The agreement of Ardoin
+and Rainulf formed the basis of the future Norman power. Their
+companies joined forces. Melfi was chosen as the centre of their
+federal government. The united Norman colony elected twelve chiefs
+or counts of equal authority; and henceforth they thought only of
+consolidating their ascendency over the effete races which had
+hitherto pretended to employ their arms. The genius of their race
+and age, however, was unfavourable to federations. In a short time
+the ablest man among them, the true king, by right of personal
+vigour and mental cunning, showed himself. It was at this point
+that the house of Hauteville rose to the altitude of its romantic
+destiny. William Iron Arm was proclaimed Count of Apulia. Two of
+his brothers succeeded him in the same dignity. His half-brother,
+Robert Guiscard, imprisoned one Pope,<a name="FNanchor_1_59" id=
+"FNanchor_1_59" /><a href="#Footnote_1_59" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> Leo IX., and wrested from another, Nicholas II.,
+the title of Duke of Apulia and Calabria. By the help of his
+youngest brother, Roger, he gradually completed the conquest of
+Italy below the Tiber, and then addressed himself to the task of
+subduing Sicily. The Papacy, incapable of opposing the military
+vigour of the Northmen, was distracted between jealousy of their
+growing importance and desire to utilise them for its own
+advantage.<a name="FNanchor_2_60" id="FNanchor_2_60" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_60" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> The temptation to
+employ these filial <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg301" id=
+"pg301">301</a></span> pirates as a catspaw for restoring Sicily to
+the bosom of the Church, was too strong to be resisted. In spite of
+many ebbs and flows of policy, the favour which the Popes accorded
+to the Normans gilded the might and cunning of the adventurers with
+the specious splendour of acknowledged sanctity. The time might
+come for casting off these powerful allies and adding their
+conquests to the patrimony of S. Peter. Meanwhile it costs nothing
+to give away what does not belong to one, particularly when by
+doing so a title to the same is gradually formed. So the Popes
+reckoned. Robert and Roger went forth with banners blessed by Rome
+to subjugate the island of the Greek and Moor.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_59" id="Footnote_1_59" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_59"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+Normans were lucky in getting hold of Popes. King Roger caught
+Innocent II. at San Germano in 1139, and got from him the
+confirmation of all his titles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_60" id="Footnote_2_60" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_60"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Even
+the great Hildebrand wavered in his policy toward Robert Guiscard.
+Having raised an army by the help of the Countess Matilda in 1074,
+he excommunicated Robert and made war against him. Robert proved
+more than his match in force and craft; and Hildebrand had to
+confirm his title as duke, and designate him Knight of S. Peter in
+1080. When Robert drove the Emperor Henry IV. from Rome, and burned
+the city of the Coelian, Hildebrand retired with his terrible
+defender to Salerno, and died there in 1085. Robert and both Rogers
+were good sons of the Church, deserving the titles of 'Terror of
+the faithless,' 'Sword of the Lord drawn from the scabbard of
+Sicily,' as long as they were suffered to pursue their own schemes
+of empire. They respected the Pope's person and his demesne of
+Benevento; they were largely liberal in donations to churches and
+abbeys. But they did not suffer their piety to interfere with their
+ambition.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The honours of this conquest, paralleled for boldness only by
+the achievements of Cortes and Pizarro, belong to Roger. It is true
+that since the fall of the Kelbite dynasty Sicily had been shaken
+by anarchy and despotism, by the petty quarrels of princes and
+party leaders, and to some extent also by the invasion of Maniaces.
+Yet on the approach of Roger with a handful of Norman knights, 'the
+island was guarded,' to quote Gibbon's energetic phrase, 'to the
+water's edge.' For some years he had to content himself with raids
+and harrying excursions, making Messina, which he won from the
+Moors by the aid of their Christian serfs and vassals, the basis of
+his operations, and retiring from time to time across the Faro
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg302" id="pg302">302</a></span>
+with booty to Reggio. The Mussulmans had never thoroughly subdued
+the north-eastern highlands of Sicily. Satisfied with occupying the
+whole western and southern sections of the island, with planting
+their government firmly at Palermo, destroying Syracuse, and
+establishing a military fort on the heights of Castro Giovanni,
+they had somewhat neglected the Christian populations of the Val
+Demone. Thus the key to Sicily upon the Italian side fell into the
+hands of the invaders. From Messina Roger advanced by Rametta and
+Centorbi to Troina, a hill-town raised high above the level of the
+sea, within view of the solemn blue-black pyramid of Etna. There he
+planted a garrison in 1062, two years after his first incursion
+into the island. The interval had been employed in marches and
+countermarches, descents upon the vale of Catania, and hurried
+expeditions as far as Girgenti, on the southern coast. One great
+battle is recorded beneath the walls of Castro Giovanni, when six
+hundred Norman knights, so say the chroniclers, engaged with
+fifteen thousand of the Arabian chivalry and one hundred thousand
+foot soldiers. However great the exaggeration of these numbers, it
+is certain that the Christians fought at fearful odds that day, and
+that all the eloquence of Roger, who wrought on their fanaticism in
+his speech before the battle, was needed to raise their courage to
+the sticking-point. The scene of the great rout of Saracens which
+followed, is in every respect memorable. Castro Giovanni, the old
+Enna of the Greeks and Romans, stands on the top of a precipitous
+mountain, two thousand feet above a plain which waves with corn. A
+sister height, Calascibetta, raised nearly to an equal altitude,
+keeps ward over the same valley; and from their summits the whole
+of Sicily is visible. Here in old days Demeter from her rock-built
+temple could survey vast tracts of hill and dale, breaking
+downwards to the sea and undulating everywhere with harvest. <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg303" id="pg303">303</a></span> The much
+praised lake and vale of Enna<a name="FNanchor_1_61" id=
+"FNanchor_1_61" /><a href="#Footnote_1_61" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> are now a desolate sulphur district, void of
+beauty, with no flowers to tempt Proserpine. Yet the landscape is
+eminently noble because of its breadth&mdash;bare naked hills
+stretching in every direction to the sea that girdles
+Sicily&mdash;peak rising above peak and town-capped eyrie over
+eyrie&mdash;while Etna, wreathed with snow, and purple with the
+peculiar colour of its coal-black lava seen through
+light-irradiated air, sleeps far off beneath a crown of clouds.
+Upon the cornfields in the centre of this landscape the multitudes
+of the Infidels were smitten hip and thigh by the handful of
+Christian warriors. Yet the victory was by no means a decisive one.
+The Saracens swarmed round the Norman fortress of Troina; where,
+during a severe winter, Roger and his young wife, Judith of Evreux,
+whom he had loved in Normandy, and who journeyed to marry him amid
+the din of battles, had but one cloak to protect them both from the
+cold. The traveller, who even in April has experienced the chill of
+a high-set Sicilian village, will not be <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg304" id="pg304">304</a></span> inclined to laugh at the
+hardships revealed by this little incident. Yet the Normans, one
+and all, were stanch. A victory over their assailants in the spring
+gave them courage to push their arms as far as the river Himera and
+beyond the Simeto, while a defeat of fifty thousand Saracens by
+four hundred Normans at Cerami opened the way at last to Palermo.
+Reading of these engagements, we are led to remember how Gelon
+smote his Punic foes upon the Himera, and Timoleon arrayed Greeks
+by the ten against Carthaginians by the thousand on the Crimisus.
+The battlefields are scarcely altered; the combatants are as
+unequally matched, and represent analogous races. It is still the
+combat of a few heroic Europeans against the hordes of Asia. In the
+battle of Cerami it is said that S. George fought visibly on
+horseback before the Christian band, like that wide-winged
+chivalrous archangel whom Spinello Aretino painted beside Sant'
+Efeso in the press of men upon the walls of the Pisan Campo
+Santo.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_61" id="Footnote_1_61" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_61"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Cicero's description of Enna is still accurate: 'Enna is placed in
+a very lofty and exposed situation, at the top of which is a
+tableland and never-failing supply of springs. The whole site is
+cut off from access, and precipitous.' But when he proceeds to say,
+'many groves and lakes surround it and luxuriant flowers through
+all the year,' we cannot follow him. The only quality which Enna
+has not lost is the impregnable nature of its cliffs. A few poplars
+and thorns are all that remain of its forests. Did we not know that
+the myth of Demeter and Persephone was a poem of seed-time and
+harvest, we might be tempted, while sitting on the crags of Castro
+Giovanni and looking toward the lake, to fancy that in old days a
+village dependent upon Enna, and therefore called her daughter,
+might have occupied the site of the lake, and that this village
+might have been withdrawn into the earth by the volcanic action
+which produced the cavity. Then people would have said that Demeter
+had lost Persephone and sought her vainly through all the cities of
+Sicily: and if this happened in spring Persephone might well have
+been thought to have been gathering flowers at the time when Hades
+took her to himself. So easy and yet so dangerous is it to
+rationalise a legend.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The capture of Palermo cost the Normans another eight years,
+part of which was spent according to their national tactics in
+plundering expeditions, part in the subjugation of Catania and
+other districts, part in the blockade of the capital by sea and
+land. After the fall of Palermo, it only remained for Roger to
+reduce isolated cities&mdash;Taormina, Syracuse,<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_62" id="FNanchor_1_62" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_62" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Girgenti, and
+Castro Giovanni&mdash;to his sway. The last-named and strongest
+hold of the Saracens fell into his hands by the treason of
+Ibn-Ham&ucirc;ud in 1087, and thus, after thirty years' continual
+effort, the two brothers were at last able to divide the island
+between them. The lion's share, as was due, fell to Roger, who
+styled himself Great Count of Sicily and Calabria. In 1098, Urban
+II., a politician of the school of <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg305" id="pg305">305</a></span> Cluny, who well understood the
+scope of Hildebrand's plan for subjecting Europe to the Court of
+Rome, rewarded Roger for his zeal in the service of the Church with
+the title of Hereditary Apostolical Legate. The Great Count was now
+on a par with the most powerful monarchs of Europe. In riches he
+exceeded all; so that he was able to wed one daughter to the King
+of Hungary, another to Conrad, King of Italy, a third to Raimond,
+Count of Provence and Toulouse, dowering them all with imperial
+munificence.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_62" id="Footnote_1_62" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_62"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> In this
+siege, as in that of the Athenians, and of the Saracens 878 A.D.,
+decisive engagements took place in the great harbour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Hale and vigorous, his life was prolonged through a green old
+age until his seventieth year; when he died in 1101, he left two
+sons by his third wife, Adelaide. Roger, the younger of the two,
+destined to succeed his father, and (on the death of his cousin,
+William, Duke of Apulia, in 1127) to unite South Italy and Sicily
+under one crown, was only four years old at the death of the Great
+Count. Inheriting all the valour and intellectual qualities of his
+family, he rose to even higher honour than his predecessors. In
+1130 he assumed the style of King of Sicily, no doubt with the
+political purpose of impressing his Mussulman subjects; and nine
+years later, when he took Innocent captive at San Germano, he
+forced from the half-willing pontiff a confirmation of this title
+as well as the investiture of Apulia, Calabria, and Capua. The
+extent of his sway is recorded in the line engraved upon his
+sword:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Appulus et Calaber Siculus mihi servit et
+Afer.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>King Roger died in 1154, and bequeathed his kingdoms to his son
+William, surnamed the Bad; who in his turn left them to a William,
+called the Good, in 1166. The second William died in 1189,
+transmitting his possessions by will to Constance, wife of the
+Suabian emperor. These two Williams, the last of the Hauteville
+monarchs of Sicily, were not altogether unworthy of their Norman
+origin. William the Bad could rouse <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg306" id="pg306">306</a></span> himself from the sloth of his
+seraglio to head an army; William the Good, though feeble in
+foreign policy, and no general, administered the state with
+clemency and wisdom.</p>
+
+<p>Sicily under the Normans offered the spectacle of a singularly
+hybrid civilisation. Christians and Northmen, adopting the habits
+and imbibing the culture of their Mussulman subjects, ruled a mixed
+population of Greeks, Arabs, Berbers, and Italians. The language of
+the princes was French; that of the Christians in their territory,
+Greek and Latin; that of their Mahommedan subjects, Arabic. At the
+same time the Scandinavian Sultans of Palermo did not cease to play
+an active part in the affairs, both civil and ecclesiastical, of
+Europe. The children of the Vikings, though they spent their
+leisure in harems, exercised, as hereditary Legates of the Holy
+See, a peculiar jurisdiction in the Church of Sicily. They
+dispensed benefices to the clergy, and assumed the mitre and
+dalmatic, together with the sceptre, and the crown, as symbols of
+their authority in Church as well as State. As a consequence of
+this confusion of nationalities in Sicily, we find French and
+English ecclesiastics<a name="FNanchor_1_63" id=
+"FNanchor_1_63" /><a href="#Footnote_1_63" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> mingling at court with Moorish freedmen and
+Oriental odalisques, Apulian captains fraternising with Greek
+corsairs, Jewish physicians in attendance on the person of the
+prince, and Arabian poets eloquent in his praises. The very money
+with which Roger subsidised his Italian allies was stamped with
+Cuphic letters,<a name="FNanchor_2_64" id="FNanchor_2_64" /><a
+href="#Footnote_2_64" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and there is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg307" id="pg307">307</a></span>
+reason to believe that the reproach against Frederick of being a
+false coiner arose from his adopting the Eastern device of plating
+copper pieces to pass for silver. The commander of Roger's navies
+and his chief minister of state was styled, according to Oriental
+usage, Emir or Ammiraglio. George of Antioch, who swept the shores
+of Africa, the Morea, and the Black Sea, in his service, was a
+Christian of the Greek Church, who had previously held an office of
+finance under Temin Prince of Mehdia. The workers in his silk
+factories were slaves from Thebes and Corinth. The pages of his
+palace were Sicilian or African eunuchs. His charters ran in Arabic
+as well as Greek and Latin. His jewellers engraved the rough gems
+of the Orient with Christian mottoes in Semitic characters.<a name=
+"FNanchor_3_65" id="FNanchor_3_65" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_3_65" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> His architects
+were Mussulmans who adapted their native style to the requirements
+of Christian ritual, and inscribed the walls of cathedrals with
+Catholic legends in the Cuphic language. The predominant
+characteristic of Palermo was Orientalism. Religious toleration was
+extended to the Mussulmans, so that the two creeds, Christian and
+Mahommedan, flourished side by side. The Saracens had their own
+quarters in the towns, their mosques and schools, and Cadis for the
+administration of petty justice. French and Italian women in
+Palermo adopted the Oriental fashions of dress. The administration
+of law and government was conducted on Eastern principles. In
+nothing had the Mussulmans shown greater genius than in their
+system of internal statecraft. Count Roger found a machinery of
+taxation in full working order, officers acquainted with the
+resources of the country, books and schedules constructed <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg308" id="pg308">308</a></span> on the
+principles of strictest accuracy, a whole bureaucracy, in fact,
+ready to his use. By applying this machinery he became the richest
+potentate in Europe, at a time when the northern monarchs were
+dependent upon feudal aids and precarious revenues from crown
+lands. In the same way, the Saracens bequeathed to the Normans the
+court system, which they in turn had derived from the princes of
+Persia and the example of Constantinople. Roger found it convenient
+to continue that organisation of pages, chamberlains, ushers,
+secretaries, viziers, and masters of the wardrobe, invested each
+with some authority of state according to his rank, which confined
+the administration of an Eastern kingdom to the walls of the
+palace.<a name="FNanchor_4_66" id="FNanchor_4_66" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_4_66" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> At Palermo Europe
+saw the first instance of a court not wholly unlike that which
+Versailles afterwards became. The intrigues which endangered the
+throne and liberty of William the Bad, and which perplexed the
+policy of William the Good, were court-conspiracies of a kind
+common enough at Constantinople. In this court life men of letters
+and erudition played a first part three centuries before Petrarch
+taught the princes of Italy to respect the pen of a poet.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_63" id="Footnote_1_63" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_63"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+English Gualterio Offamilio, or Walter of the Mill, Archbishop of
+Palermo during the reign of William the Good, by his intrigues
+brought about the match between Constance and Henry VI. Richard
+Palmer at the same time was Bishop of Syracuse. Stephen des
+Rotrous, a Frenchman of the Counts of Perche, preceded Walter of
+the Mill in the Arch See of Palermo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_64" id="Footnote_2_64" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_64"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
+Frederick Barbarossa's soldiers are said to have bidden the Romans:
+'Take this German iron in change for Arab gold. This pay your
+master gives you, and this is how Franks win
+empire.'&mdash;<i>Amari</i>, vol. iii. p. 468.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_3_65" id="Footnote_3_65" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_3_65"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The
+embroidered skullcap of Constance of Aragon, wife of Frederick II.,
+in the sacristy of the cathedral at Palermo, is made of gold thread
+thickly studded with pearls and jewels&mdash;rough sapphires and
+carbuncles, among which may be noticed a red cornelian engraved in
+Arabic with this sentence, 'In Christ, God, I put my hope.'</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_4_66" id="Footnote_4_66" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_4_66"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The
+Arabic title of <i>K&acirc;id</i>, which originally was given to a
+subordinate captain of the guard, took a wide significance at the
+Norman Court. Latinised to <i>gaytus</i>, and Grecised under the
+form of &kappa;&#940;&iota;&tau;&omicron;&sigmaf;, it frequently
+occurs in chronicles and diplomas to denote a high minister of
+state. Matteo of Ajello, who exercised so powerful an influence
+over the policy of William the Good, heading the Mussulman and
+national party against the great ecclesiastics who were intriguing
+to draw Sicily into the entanglements of European diplomacy, was a
+K&acirc;id. Matteo favoured the cause of Tancred, Walter of the
+Mill espoused that of the Germans, during the war of succession
+which followed upon William's death. The barons of the realm had to
+range themselves under these two leaders&mdash;to such an extent
+were the affairs of state in Sicily within the grasp of courtiers
+and churchmen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>King Roger, of whom the court geographer Edrisi writes <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg309" id="pg309">309</a></span> that 'he
+did more sleeping than any other man waking,' was surrounded during
+his leisure moments, beneath the palm-groves of Favara, with
+musicians, historians, travellers, mathematicians, poets, and
+astrologers of Oriental breeding. At his command Ptolemy's Optics
+were translated into Latin from the Arabic. The prophecies of the
+Erythrean Sibyl were rendered accessible in the same way. His
+respect for the occult sciences was proved by his disinterring the
+bones of Virgil from their resting-place at Posilippo, and placing
+them in the Castel dell' Uovo in order that he might have access
+through necromancy to the spirit of the Roman wizard. It may be
+remembered in passing, that Palermo in one of her mosques already
+held suspended between earth and air the supposed relics of
+Aristotle. Such were the saints of modern culture in its earliest
+dawning. While Venice was robbing Alexandria of the body of S.
+Mark, Palermo and Naples placed themselves beneath the protection
+of a philosopher and a poet. But Roger's greatest literary work was
+the compilation of a treatise of universal geography. Fifteen years
+were devoted to the task; and the manuscript, in Arabic, drawn up
+by the philosopher Edrisi, appeared only six weeks before the
+king's death in 1154. This book, called 'The Book of Roger, or the
+Delight of whoso loves to make the Circuit of the World,' was based
+upon the previous labours of twelve geographers, classical and
+Mussulman. But aiming at greater accuracy than could be obtained by
+a merely literary compilation, Roger caused pilgrims, travellers,
+and merchants of all countries to be assembled for conference and
+examination before him. Their accounts were sifted and collated.
+Edrisi held the pen while Roger questioned. Measurements and
+distances were carefully compared; and a vast silver disc was
+constructed, on which all the seas, islands, continents, plains,
+rivers, mountain ranges, cities, roads, and harbours of the <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg310" id="pg310">310</a></span> known
+world were delineated. The text supplied an explanatory description
+of this map, with tables of the products, habits, races, religions,
+and qualities, both physical and moral, of all climates. The
+precious metal upon which the map was drawn proved its ruin, and
+the Geography remained in the libraries of Arab scholars. Yet this
+was one of the first great essays of practical exploration and
+methodical statistic, to which the genius of the Norseman and the
+Arab each contributed a quota. The Arabians, by their primitive
+nomadic habits, by the necessities of their system of taxation, by
+their predilection for astrology, by their experience as pilgrims,
+merchants, and poets errant, were specially qualified for the
+labour of geographical investigation. Roger supplied the unbounded
+curiosity and restless energy of his Scandinavian temper, the
+kingly comprehensive intellect of his race, and the authority of a
+prince who was powerful enough to compel the service of qualified
+collaborators.</p>
+
+<p>The architectural works of the Normans in Palermo reveal the
+same ascendency of Arab culture. San Giovanni degli Eremiti, with
+its low white rounded domes, is nothing more or less than a little
+mosque adapted to the rites of Christians.<a name="FNanchor_1_67"
+id="FNanchor_1_67" /><a href="#Footnote_1_67" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> The country palaces of the Zisa and the Cuba,
+built by the two Williams, retain their ancient Moorish character.
+Standing beneath the fretted arches of the hall of the Zisa,
+through which a fountain flows within a margin of carved marble,
+and looking on the landscape from its open porch, we only need to
+reconstruct in fancy the green gardens and orange-groves, where
+fair-haired Normans whiled away their hours among black-eyed
+odalisques and graceful singing boys from Persia. Amid a wild
+tangle of olive and lemon trees overgrown with scarlet
+passion-flowers, the pavilion of the Cubola, built of <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg311" id="pg311">311</a></span> hewn stone and
+open at each of its four sides, still stands much as it stood when
+William II. paced through flowers from his palace of the Cuba, to
+enjoy the freshness of the evening by the side of its fountain. The
+views from all these Saracenic villas over the fruitful valley of
+the Golden Horn, and the turrets of Palermo, and the mountains and
+the distant sea, are ineffably delightful. When the palaces were
+new&mdash;when the gilding and the frescoes still shone upon their
+honeycombed ceilings, when their mosaics glittered in noonday
+twilight, and their amber-coloured masonry was set in shade of
+pines and palms, and the cool sound of rivulets made music in their
+courts and gardens, they must have well deserved their Arab titles
+of 'Sweet Waters' and 'The Glory' and 'The Paradise of Earth.'</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_67" id="Footnote_1_67" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_67"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Tradition asserts that the tocsin of this church gave the signal in
+Palermo to the massacre of the Sicilian Vespers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>But the true splendour of Palermo, that which makes this city
+one of the most glorious of the south, is to be sought in its
+churches&mdash;in the mosaics of the Cappella Palatina founded by
+King Roger, in the vast aisles and cloisters of Monreale built by
+King William the Good at the instance of his Chancellor Matteo,<a
+name="FNanchor_1_68" id="FNanchor_1_68" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_68" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> in the Cathedral
+of Palermo begun by Offamilio, and in the Martorana dedicated by
+George the Admiral. These triumphs of ecclesiastical architecture,
+none the less splendid because they cannot be reduced to rule or
+assigned to any single style, were the work of Saracen builders
+assisted by Byzantine, Italian, and Norman craftsmen. The genius of
+Latin Christianity determined the basilica shape of the Cathedral
+of Monreale. Its bronze doors were wrought by smiths of Trani and
+Pisa. Its walls were incrusted with the mosaics of Constantinople.
+The woodwork of its roof, and the emblazoned patterns in porphyry
+and serpentine and glass and smalto, which cover its whole surface,
+were designed <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg312" id=
+"pg312">312</a></span> by Oriental decorators. Norman sculptors
+added their dog-tooth and chevron to the mouldings of its porches;
+Greeks, Frenchmen, and Arabs may have tried their skill in turn
+upon the multitudinous ornaments of its cloister capitals. 'The
+like of which church,' said Lucius III. in 1182, 'hath not been
+constructed by any king even from ancient times, and such an one as
+must compel all men to admiration.' These words remain literally
+and emphatically true. Other cathedrals may surpass that of
+Monreale in sublimity, simplicity, bulk, strength, or unity of
+plan. None can surpass it in the strange romance with which the
+memory of its many artificers invests it. None again can exceed it
+in richness and glory, in the gorgeousness of a thousand decorative
+elements subservient to one controlling thought. 'It is evident,'
+says Fergusson in his 'History of Architecture,' 'that all the
+architectural features in the building were subordinate in the eyes
+of the builders to the mosaic decorations, which cover every part
+of the interior, and are in fact the glory and the pride of the
+edifice, and alone entitle it to rank among the finest of
+medi&aelig;val churches.' The whole of the Christian history is
+depicted in this series of mosaics; but on first entering, one form
+alone compels attention. The semi-dome of the eastern apse above
+the high altar is entirely filled with a gigantic half-length
+figure of Christ. He raises His right hand to bless, and with His
+left holds an open book on which is written in Greek and Latin, 'I
+am the Light of the world.' His face is solemn and severe, rather
+than mild or piteous; and round His nimbus runs the legend
+&Iota;&eta;&sigma;&omicron;&upsilon;&sigmaf;
+&Chi;&rho;&iota;&sigma;&tau;&omicron;&sigmaf; '&omicron;
+&pi;&alpha;&nu;&tau;&omicron;&kappa;&rho;&#940;&tau;&omega;&rho;.
+Below Him on a smaller scale are ranged the archangels and the
+mother of the Lord, who holds the child upon her knees. Thus Christ
+appears twice upon this wall, once as the Omnipotent Wisdom, the
+Word by whom all things were made, and once as God deigning to
+assume a <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg313" id=
+"pg313">313</a></span> shape of flesh and dwell with men. The
+magnificent image of supreme Deity seems to fill with a single
+influence and to dominate the whole building. The house with all
+its glory is His. He dwells there like Pallas in her Parthenon or
+Zeus in his Olympian temple. To left and right over every square
+inch of the cathedral blaze mosaics, which portray the story of
+God's dealings with the human race from the Creation downwards,
+together with those angelic beings and saints who symbolise each in
+his own degree some special virtue granted to mankind. The walls of
+the fane are therefore an open book of history, theology, and
+ethics for all men to read.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_68" id="Footnote_1_68" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_68"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Matteo
+of Ajello induced William to found an archbishopric at Monreale in
+order to spite his rival Offamilio.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The superiority of mosaics over fresco as an architectural
+adjunct on this gigantic scale is apparent at a glance in Monreale.
+Permanency of splendour and glowing richness of tone are all on the
+side of the mosaics. Their true rival is painted glass. The
+jewelled churches of the south are constructed for the display of
+coloured surfaces illuminated by sunlight falling on them from
+narrow windows, just as those of the north&mdash;Rheims, for
+example, or Le Mans&mdash;are built for the transmission of light
+through a variegated medium of transparent hues. The painted
+windows of a northern cathedral find their proper counterpart in
+the mosaics of the south. The Gothic architect strove to obtain the
+greatest amount of translucent surface. The Byzantine builder
+directed his attention to securing just enough light for the
+illumination of his glistening walls. The radiance of the northern
+church was similar to that of flowers or sunset clouds or jewels.
+The glory of the southern temple was that of dusky gold and
+gorgeous needlework. The north needed acute brilliancy as a
+contrast to external greyness. The south found rest from the glare
+and glow of noonday in these sombre splendours. Thus Christianity,
+both of the south and of the north, decked <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg314" id="pg314">314</a></span> her shrines with colour. Not
+so the Paganism of Hellas. With the Greeks, colour, though used in
+architecture, was severely subordinated to sculpture; toned and
+modified to a calculated harmony with actual nature, it did not, as
+in a Christian church, create a world beyond the world, a paradise
+of supersensual ecstasy, but remained within the limits of the
+known. Light falling upon carved forms of gods and heroes, bathing
+clear-cut columns and sharp basreliefs in simple lustre, was enough
+for the Phoebean rites of Hellas. Though we know that red and blue
+and green and gilding were employed to accentuate the mouldings of
+Greek temples, yet neither the gloomy glory of mosaics nor the
+gemmed fretwork of storied windows was needed to attune the souls
+of Hellenic worshippers to devotion.</p>
+
+<p>Less vast than Monreale, but even more beautiful, because the
+charm of mosaic increases in proportion as the surface it covers
+may be compared to the interior of a casket, is the Cappella
+Palatina of the royal palace in Palermo. Here, again, the whole
+design and ornament are Arabo-Byzantine. Saracenic pendentives with
+Cuphic legends incrust the richly painted ceiling of the nave. The
+roofs of the apses and the walls are coated with mosaics, in which
+the Bible history, from the dove that brooded over Chaos to the
+lives of S. Peter and S. Paul, receives a grand though formal
+presentation. Beneath the mosaics are ranged slabs of grey marble,
+edged and divided with delicate patterns of inserted glass,
+resembling drapery with richly embroidered fringes. The floor is
+inlaid with circles of serpentine and porphyry encased in white
+marble, and surrounded by winding bands of Alexandrine work. Some
+of these patterns are restricted to the five tones of red, green,
+white, black, and pale yellow. Others add turquoise blue, and
+emerald, and scarlet, and gold. Not a square inch of the
+surface&mdash;floor, roof, walls, or <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg315" id="pg315">315</a></span> cupola&mdash;is free from
+exquisite gemmed work of precious marbles. A candelabrum of
+fanciful design, combining lions devouring men and beasts, cranes,
+flowers, and winged genii, stands by the pulpit. Lamps of chased
+silver hang from the roof. The cupola blazes with gigantic
+archangels, stationed in a ring beneath the supreme figure and face
+of Christ. Some of the Ravenna churches are more historically
+interesting, perhaps, than this little masterpiece of the mosaic
+art. But none is so rich in detail and lustrous in effect. It
+should be seen at night, when the lamps are lighted in a pyramid
+around the sepulchre of the dead Christ on Holy Thursday, when
+partial gleams strike athwart the tawny gold of the arches, and
+fall upon the profile of a priest declaiming in voluble Italian to
+a listening crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Such are a few of the monuments which still remain to show of
+what sort was the mixed culture of Normans, Saracens, Italians, and
+Greeks at Palermo. In scenes like these the youth of Frederick II.
+was passed:&mdash;for at the end, while treating of Palermo, we are
+bound to think again of the Emperor who inherited from his German
+father the ambition of the Hohenstauffens, and from his Norman
+mother the fair fields and Oriental traditions of Sicily. The
+strange history of Frederick&mdash;an intellect of the eighteenth
+century born out of date, a cosmopolitan spirit in the age of Saint
+Louis, the crusader who conversed with Moslem sages on the
+threshold of the Holy Sepulchre, the Sultan of Lucera<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_69" id="FNanchor_1_69" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_69" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> who persecuted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg316" id="pg316">316</a></span>
+Paterini while he respected the superstition of Saracens, the
+anointed successor of Charlemagne, who carried his harem with him
+to the battlefields of Lombardy, and turned Infidels loose upon the
+provinces of Christ's Vicar&mdash;would be inexplicable, were it
+not that Palermo still reveals in all her monuments the <i>genius
+loci</i> which gave spiritual nurture to this phoenix among kings.
+From his Mussulman teachers Frederick derived the philosophy to
+which he gave a vogue in Europe. From his Arabian predecessors he
+learnt the arts of internal administration and finance, which he
+transmitted to the princes of Italy. In imitation of Oriental
+courts, he adopted the practice of verse composition, which gave
+the first impulse to Italian literature. His Grand Vizier, Piero
+Delle Vigne, set an example to Petrarch, not only by composing the
+first sonnet in Italian, but also by showing to what height a
+low-born secretary versed in art and law might rise. In a word, the
+zeal for liberal studies, the luxury of life, the religious
+indifferentism, the bureaucratic system of state government, which
+mark the age of the Italian Renaissance, found their first
+manifestation within the bosom of the Middle Ages in Frederick.
+While our King John was signing Magna Charta, Frederick had already
+lived long enough to comprehend, at least in outline, what is meant
+by the spirit of modern culture.<a name="FNanchor_2_70" id=
+"FNanchor_2_70" /><a href="#Footnote_2_70" class=
+"fnanchor">[2]</a> It is true that the so-called Renaissance
+followed slowly and by tortuous paths upon the death of Frederick.
+The Church obtained a complete victory over his family, and
+succeeded in extinguishing the civilisation of Sicily. Yet the fame
+of the Emperor who transmitted <span class="pagenum"><a name=
+"pg317" id="pg317">317</a></span> questions of sceptical philosophy
+to Arab sages, who conversed familiarly with men of letters, who
+loved splendour and understood the arts of refined living, survived
+both long and late in Italy. His power, his wealth, his liberality
+of soul and lofty aspirations, formed the theme of many a tale and
+poem. Dante places him in hell among the heresiarchs; and truly the
+splendour of his supposed infidelity found for him a goodly
+following. Yet Dante dated the rise of Italian literature from the
+blooming period of the Sicilian court. Frederick's unorthodoxy
+proved no drawback to his intellectual influence. More than any
+other man of medi&aelig;val times he contributed, if only as the
+memory of a mighty name, to the progress of civilised humanity.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_69" id="Footnote_1_69" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_69"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Charles
+of Anjou gave this nickname to Manfred, who carried on the
+Siculo-Norman tradition. Frederick, it may here be mentioned, had
+transferred his Saracen subjects of the vale of Mazara to Lucera in
+the Capitanate. He employed them as trusty troops in his warfare
+with the Popes and preaching friars. Nothing shows the confusion of
+the century in matters ecclesiastical and religious more curiously
+than that Frederick, who conducted a crusade and freed the Holy
+Sepulchre, should not only have tolerated the religion of
+Mussulmans, but also have armed them against the Head of the
+Church. What we are apt to regard as religious questions really
+belonged at that period to the sphere of politics.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_70" id="Footnote_2_70" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_70"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> It is
+curious to note that in this year 1215, the date of Magna Charta,
+Frederick took the Cross at Aix-la-Chapelle.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Let us take leave both of Frederick and of Palermo, that centre
+of converging influences which was his cradle, in the cathedral
+where he lies gathered to his fathers. This church, though its rich
+sunbrowned yellow<a name="FNanchor_1_71" id="FNanchor_1_71" /><a
+href="#Footnote_1_71" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> reminds one
+of the tone of Spanish buildings, is like nothing one has seen
+elsewhere. Here even more than at Monreale the eye is struck with a
+fusion of styles. The western towers are grouped into something
+like the clustered sheafs of the Caen churches: the windows present
+Saracenic arches: the southern porch is covered with foliated
+incrustations of a late and decorative Gothic style: the exterior
+of the apse combines Arabic inlaid patterns of black and yellow
+with the Greek honeysuckle: the western door adds Norman dog-tooth
+and chevron to the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg318" id=
+"pg318">318</a></span> Saracenic billet. Nowhere is any one
+tradition firmly followed. The whole wavers and yet is
+beautiful&mdash;like the immature eclecticism of the culture which
+Frederick himself endeavoured to establish in his southern
+kingdoms. Inside there is no such harmony of blended voices: all
+the strange tongues, which speak together on the outside, making up
+a music in which the far North, and ancient Byzance, and the
+delicate East sound each a note, are hushed. The frigid silence of
+the Palladian style reigns there&mdash;simple indeed and dignified,
+but lifeless as the century in which it flourished.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_71" id="Footnote_1_71" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_71"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Nearly
+all cities have their own distinctive colour. That of Venice is a
+pearly white suggestive of every hue in delicate abeyance, and that
+of Florence is a sober brown. Palermo displays a rich yellow ochre
+passing at the deepest into orange, and at the lightest into
+primrose. This is the tone of the soil, of sun-stained marble, and
+of the rough ashlar masonry of the chief buildings. Palermo has
+none of the glaring whiteness of Naples, nor yet of that
+particoloured gradation of tints which adds gaiety to the grandeur
+of Genoa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Yet there, in a side chapel near the western door, stand the
+porphyry sarcophagi which shrine the bones of the Hautevilles and
+their representatives. There sleeps King Roger&mdash;'Dux strenuus
+et primus Rex Sicili&aelig;'&mdash;with his daughter Constance in
+her purple chest beside him. Henry VI. and Frederick II. and
+Constance of Aragon complete the group, which surpasses for
+interest all sepulchral monuments&mdash;even the tombs of the
+Scaligers at Verona&mdash;except only, perhaps, the statues of the
+nave of Innspruck. Very sombre and stately are these porphyry
+resting-places of princes born in the purple, assembled here from
+lands so distant&mdash;from the craggy heights of Hohenstauffen,
+from the green orchards of Cotentin, from the dry hills of Aragon.
+They sleep, and the centuries pass by. Rude hands break open the
+granite lids of their sepulchres, to find tresses of yellow hair
+and fragments of imperial mantles, embroidered with the hawks and
+stags the royal hunter loved. The church in which they lie changes
+with the change of taste in architecture and the manners of
+successive ages. But the huge stone arks remain unmoved, guarding
+their freight of mouldering dust beneath gloomy canopies of stone
+that temper the sunlight as it streams from the chapel windows.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg319" id=
+"pg319">319</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="SYRACUSE" id="SYRACUSE" /><i>SYRACUSE AND
+GIRGENTI</i></h3>
+
+<p>The traveller in Sicily is constantly reminded of classical
+history and literature. While tossing, it may be, at anchor in the
+port of Trapani, and wondering when the tedious Libeccio will
+release him, he must perforce remember that here &AElig;neas
+instituted the games for Anchises. Here Mnestheus and Gyas and
+Sergestus and Cloanthus raced their galleys: on yonder little isle
+the Centaur struck; and that was the rock which received the
+dripping Menoetes:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Illum et labentem Teucri et risere natantem,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Et salsos rident revomentem pectore fluctus.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Or crossing a broken bridge at night in the lumbering diligence,
+guarded by infantry with set bayonets, and wondering on which side
+of the ravine the brigands are in ambush, he suddenly calls to mind
+that this torrent was the ancient Halycus, the border between
+Greeks and Carthaginians, established of old, and ratified by
+Timoleon after the battle of the Crimisus. Among the bare grey
+hills of Segeste his thoughts revert to that strange story told by
+Herodotus of Philippus, the young soldier of Crotona, whose beauty
+was so great, that when the Segesteans found him slain among their
+foes, they raised the corpse and burned it on a pyre of honour, and
+built a hero's temple over the urn that held his ashes. The first
+sight of Etna makes us cry with Theocritus,
+&Alpha;&iota;&tau;&nu;&alpha; <a name="pg320" id="pg320"></a><span
+class="pagenum">320</span> &mu;&alpha;&tau;&epsilon;&rho;
+&epsilon;&mu;&#940;....&pi;&omicron;&lambda;&upsilon;&delta;&#941;&nu;&delta;&rho;&epsilon;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&Alpha;&iota;&tau;&nu;&alpha;. The solemn heights of Castro
+Giovanni bring lines of Ovid to our lips:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Haud procul Henn&aelig;is lacus est a moenibu
+alt&aelig;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nomine Pergus aqu&aelig;. Non illo plura
+Caystros</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Carmina cygnorum labentibus audit in undis.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Silva coronat aquas, cingens latus omne;
+suisque</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Frondibus ut velo Phoebeos summovet ignes.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Frigora dant rami, Tyrios humus humida
+flores.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Perpetnum ver est.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>We look indeed in vain for the leafy covert and the purple
+flowers that tempted Proserpine. The place is barren now: two
+solitary cypress-trees mark the road which winds downwards from a
+desolate sulphur mine, and the lake is clearly the crater of an
+extinct volcano. Yet the voices of old poets are not mute. 'The
+rich Virgilian rustic measure' recalls a long-since buried past.
+Even among the wavelets of the Faro we remember Homer, scanning the
+shore if haply somewhere yet may linger the wild fig-tree which
+saved Ulysses from the whirlpool of Charybdis. At any rate we
+cannot but exclaim with Goethe, 'Now all these coasts, gulfs, and
+creeks, islands and peninsulas, rocks and sand-banks, wooded hills,
+soft meadows, fertile fields, neat gardens, hanging grapes, cloudy
+mountains, constant cheerfulness of plains, cliffs and ridges, and
+the surrounding sea, with such manifold variety are present in my
+mind; now is the "Odyssey" for the first time become to me a living
+world.'</p>
+
+<p>But rich as the whole of Sicily may be in classical
+associations, two places, Syracuse and Girgenti, are pre-eminent
+for the power of bringing the Greek past forcibly before us. Their
+interest is of two very different kinds. Girgenti still displays
+the splendour of temples placed upon a rocky cornice between sea
+and olive-groves. Syracuse has nothing to show but the scene of
+world-important actions. Yet the great deeds <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg321" id="pg321">321</a></span> recorded by
+Thucydides, the conflict between eastern and western Hellas which
+ended in the annihilation of the bright, brief, brilliant reality
+of Athenian empire, remain so clearly written on the hills and
+harbours and marshlands of Syracuse that no place in the world is
+topographically more memorable. The artist, whether architect, or
+landscape-painter, or poet, finds full enjoyment at Girgenti. The
+historian must be exacting indeed in his requirements if he is not
+satisfied with Syracuse.</p>
+
+<p>What has become of Syracuse, 'the greatest of Greek cities and
+the fairest of all cities' even in the days of Cicero? Scarcely one
+stone stands upon another of all those temples and houses. The five
+towns which were included by the walls have now shrunk to the
+little island which the first settlers named Ortygia, where the
+sacred fountain of Arethusa seemed to their home-loving hearts to
+have followed them from Hellas.<a name="FNanchor_1_72" id=
+"FNanchor_1_72" /><a href="#Footnote_1_72" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> Nothing survives but a few columns of Athene's
+temple built into a Christian church, with here and there the
+marble masonry of a bath or the Roman stonework of an amphitheatre.
+There are not even any mounds or deep deposits of rubble mixed with
+pottery to show here once a town had been.<a name="FNanchor_2_73"
+id="FNanchor_2_73" /><a href="#Footnote_2_73" class=
+"fnanchor">[2]</a> <i>Etiam periere ruin&aelig;.</i> The vast city,
+devastated for the last time by the Saracens in 878 A.D., has been
+reduced to dust and swept by the scirocco into the sea. This is the
+explanation of its utter ruin. The stone of Syracuse is friable and
+easily disintegrated. The petulant moist wind of the south-east
+corrodes its surface; and when it falls, it crumbles to <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg322" id="pg322">322</a></span> powder.
+Here, then, the elements have had their will unchecked by such
+sculptured granite as in Egypt resists the mounded sand of the
+desert, or by such marble colonnades as in Athens have calmly borne
+the insults of successive sieges. What was hewn out of the solid
+rock&mdash;the semicircle of the theatre, the street of the tombs
+with its deeply dented chariot-ruts, the gigantic quarries from
+which the material of the metropolis was scooped, the catacombs
+which burrow for miles underground&mdash;alone prove how mighty
+must have been the Syracuse of Dionysius. Truly 'the iniquity of
+oblivion blindly scattereth her poppy, and deals with the memory of
+men without distinction to merit of perpetuity.' Standing on the
+beach of the Great Harbour or the Bay of Thapsus, we may repeat
+almost word by word Antipater's solemn lament over
+Corinth:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Where is thy splendour now, thy crown of
+towers,</div>
+
+<div class="i6">Thy beauty visible to all men's eyes,</div>
+
+<div class="i6">The gold and silver of thy treasuries,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Thy temples of blest gods, thy woven bowers</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Where long-stoled ladies walked in tranquil
+hours,</div>
+
+<div class="i6">Thy multitudes like stars that crowd the
+skies?</div>
+
+<div class="i6">All, all are gone. Thy desolation lies</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Bare to the night. The elemental powers</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Resume their empire: on this lonely shore</div>
+
+<div class="i6">Thy deathless Nereids, daughters of the sea,</div>
+
+<div class="i6">Wailing 'mid broken stones unceasingly,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Like halcyons when the restless south winds
+roar,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Sing the sad story of thy woes of yore:</div>
+
+<div class="i6">These plunging waves are all that's left to
+thee.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Time, however, though he devours his children, cannot utterly
+destroy either the written record of illustrious deeds or the
+theatre of their enactment. Therefore, with Thucydides in hand, we
+may still follow the events of that Syracusan siege which decided
+the destinies of Greece, and by the fall of <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg323" id="pg323">323</a></span> Athens, raised
+Sparta, Macedonia, and finally Rome to the hegemony of the
+civilised world.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_72" id="Footnote_1_72" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_72"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The
+fountain of Arethusa, recently rescued from the washerwomen of
+Syracuse, is shut off from the Great Harbour by a wall and planted
+with papyrus. Taste has not been displayed in the bear-pit
+architecture of its circular enclosure.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_73" id="Footnote_2_73" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_73"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This is
+not strictly true of Achradina, where some <i>d&eacute;bris</i> may
+still be found worth excavating.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are few students of Thucydides and Grote who would not be
+surprised by the small scale of the cliffs, and the gentle incline
+of Epipol&aelig;&mdash;the rising ground above the town of
+Syracuse, upon the slope of which the principal operations of the
+Athenian siege took place.<a name="FNanchor_1_74" id=
+"FNanchor_1_74" /><a href="#Footnote_1_74" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> Maps, and to some extent also the language of
+Thucydides, who talks of the
+&pi;&rho;&omicron;&sigma;&beta;&#940;&sigma;&epsilon;&iota;&sigmaf;
+or practicable approaches to Epipol&aelig;, and the
+&kappa;&rho;&eta;&mu;&nu;&omicron;&iota;, or precipices by which
+it was separated from the plain, would lead one to suppose that the
+whole region was on each hand rocky and abrupt. In reality it is
+extremely difficult to distinguish the rising ground of
+Epipol&aelig; upon the southern side from the plain, so very
+gradual is the line of ascent and so comparatively even is the
+rocky surface of the hill. Thucydides, in narrating the night
+attack of Demosthenes upon the lines of Gylippus (book vii. 43-45),
+lays stress upon the necessity of approaching Epipol&aelig; from
+the western side by Eury&acirc;lus, and again asserts that during
+the hurried retreat of the Athenians great numbers died by leaping
+from the cliffs, while still more had to throw away their armour.
+At this time the Athenian army was encamped upon the shore of the
+Great Harbour, and held trenches and a wall that stretched from
+that side at least halfway across Epipol&aelig;. It seems therefore
+strange that, unless their movements were impeded by counterworks
+and lines of walls, of which we have no information, the troops of
+Demosthenes should not, at least in their retreat, have been able
+to pour down over the gentle <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg324"
+id="pg324">324</a></span> descent of Epipol&aelig; toward the
+Anapus, instead of returning to Eury&acirc;lus. Anyhow, we can
+scarcely discern cliffs of more than ten feet upon the southern
+slope of Epipol&aelig;, nor can we understand why the Athenians
+should have been forced to take these in their line of retreat.
+There must have been some artificial defences of which we read
+nothing, and of which no traces now remain, but which were
+sufficient to prevent them from choosing their ground. Slight
+difficulties of this kind raise the question whether the wonderful
+clearness of Thucydides in detail was really the result of personal
+observation, or whether his graphic style enabled him to give the
+appearance of scrupulous accuracy. I incline to think that the
+author of the sixth and seventh books of the History must have
+visited Syracuse, and that if we could see his own map of
+Epipol&aelig;, we should better be able to understand the
+difficulties of the backward night march of Demosthenes, by
+discovering that there was some imperative necessity for not
+descending, as seems natural, upon the open slope of the hill to
+the south. The position of Eury&acirc;lus at the extreme point
+called Mongibellisi is clear enough. Here the ground, which has
+been continually rising from the plateau of Achradina (the northern
+suburb of Syracuse), comes to an abrupt finish. Between
+Mongibellisi and the Belvedere hill beyond there is a deep
+depression, and the slope to Eury&acirc;lus either from the south
+or north is gradual. It was a gross piece of neglect on the part of
+Nikias not to have fortified this spot on his first investment of
+Epipol&aelig;, instead of choosing Labdalum, which, wherever we may
+place it, must have been lower down the hill to the east. For
+Eury&acirc;lus is the key to Epipol&aelig;. It was here that Nikias
+himself ascended in the first instance, and that afterwards he
+permitted Gylippus to enter and raise the siege, and lastly that
+Demosthenes, by overpowering the insufficient Syracusan guard, got
+at night within the lines of <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg325"
+id="pg325">325</a></span> the Spartan general. Thus the three most
+important movements of the siege were made upon Eury&acirc;lus.
+Dionysius, when he enclosed Epipol&aelig; with walls, recognised
+the value of the point, and fortified it with the castle which
+remains, and to which, as Colonel Leake believes, Archimedes, at
+the order of Hiero II., made subsequent additions. This castle is
+one of the most interesting Greek ruins extant. A little repair
+would make it even now a substantial place of defence, according to
+Greek tactics. Its deep foss is cut in the solid rock, and
+furnished with subterranean magazines for the storage of
+provisions. The three piles of solid masonry on which the
+drawbridge rested, still stand in the centre of this ditch. The
+oblique grand entrance to the foss descends by a flight of well-cut
+steps. The rock itself over which the fort was raised is
+honeycombed with excavated passages for infantry and cavalry, of
+different width and height, so that one sort can be assigned to
+mounted horsemen and another to foot soldiers. The trap-doors which
+led from these galleries into the fortress are provided with rests
+for ladders that could be let down to help a sallying force or
+drawn up to impede an advancing enemy. The inner court for stabled
+horses and the stations for the catapults are still in tolerable
+preservation. Thus the whole arrangement of the stronghold can be
+traced not dimly but distinctly. Being placed on the left side of
+the chief gate of Epipol&aelig;, the occupants of the fort could
+issue to attack a foe advancing toward that gate in the rear. At
+the same time the subterranean galleries enabled them to pour out
+upon the other side, if the enemy had forced an entrance, while the
+minor passages and trap-doors provided a retreat in case the
+garrison were overpowered in one of their offensive operations. The
+view from Eury&acirc;lus is extensive. To the left rises Etna,
+snowy, solitary, broadly vast, above the plain of Catania, the
+curving shore, Thapsus, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg326" id=
+"pg326">326</a></span> and the sea. Syracuse itself, a thin white
+line between the harbour and the open sea, a dazzling streak
+between two blues, terminates the slope of Epipol&aelig;, and on
+the right hand stretch the marshes of Anapus rich with vines and
+hoary with olives.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_74" id="Footnote_1_74" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_74"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+Epipol&aelig; is in shape a pretty regular isosceles triangle, of
+which the apex is Mongibellisi or Eury&acirc;lus, and the base
+Achradina or the northern quarter of the ancient city. Thucydides
+describes it as &chi;&omega;&rho;&#943;&omicron;&upsilon;
+&alpha;&pi;&omicron;&kappa;&rho;&#942;&mu;&nu;&omicron;&upsilon;
+&tau;&epsilon; &kappa;&alpha;&iota; &upsilon;&pi;&epsilon;&rho;
+&tau;&eta;&sigmaf; &pi;&#972;&lambda;&epsilon;&omega;&sigmaf;
+&epsilon;&upsilon;&theta;&upsilon;&sigmaf;
+&kappa;&epsilon;&iota;&mu;&#941;&nu;&omicron;&upsilon;...
+&epsilon;&xi;&#942;&rho;&tau;&eta;&tau;&alpha;&iota;
+&gamma;&alpha;&rho; &tau;&omicron; &alpha;&lambda;&lambda;&omicron;
+&chi;&omega;&rho;&#943;&omicron;&nu; &kappa;&alpha;&iota;
+&mu;&#941;&chi;&rho;&iota; &tau;&eta;&sigmaf;
+&pi;&#972;&lambda;&epsilon;&omega;&sigmaf;
+&epsilon;&pi;&iota;&kappa;&lambda;&iota;&nu;&#941;&sigmaf;
+&tau;&#941; &epsilon;&sigma;&tau;&iota; &kappa;&alpha;&iota;
+&epsilon;&pi;&iota;&phi;&alpha;&nu;&epsilon;&sigmaf; &pi;&alpha;&nu;
+&epsilon;&iota;&sigma;&omicron; &kappa;&alpha;&iota;
+&omega;&nu;&omicron;&mu;&alpha;&sigma;&tau;&alpha;
+&upsilon;&pi;&upsilon; &tau;&omicron;&nu;
+&Sigma;&upsilon;&rho;&alpha;&kappa;&omicron;&sigma;&#943;&omega;&nu;
+&delta;&iota;&alpha; &tau;&omicron;
+&epsilon;&pi;&iota;&pi;&omicron;&lambda;&eta;&sigmaf;
+&tau;&omicron;&upsilon; &alpha;&lambda;&lambda;&omicron;&upsilon;
+&epsilon;&iota;&nu;&alpha;&iota;
+&Epsilon;&pi;&iota;&pi;&omicron;&lambda;&alpha;&iota; (vi.
+96).]</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>By far the most interesting localities of Syracuse are the Great
+Harbour and the stone quarries. When the sluggish policy and faint
+heart of Nikias had brought the Athenians to the verge of ruin,
+when Gylippus had entered the besieged city, and Plemmyrium had
+been wrested from the invaders, and Demosthenes had failed in his
+attack upon Epipol&aelig;, and the blockading trenches had been
+finally evacuated, no hope remained for the armament of Athens
+except only in retreat by water. They occupied a palisaded
+encampment upon the shore of the harbour, between the mouth of the
+Anapus and the city; whence they attempted to force their way with
+their galleys to the open sea. Hitherto the Athenians had been
+supreme upon their own element; but now the Syracusans adopted
+tactics suited to the narrow basin in which the engagements had to
+take place. Building their vessels with heavy beaks, they crushed
+the lighter craft of the Athenians, which had no room for flank
+movements and rapid evolutions. A victory was thus obtained by the
+Syracusan navy; the harbour was blockaded with chains by the order
+of Gylippus; the Athenians were driven back to their palisades upon
+the fever-haunted shore. Their only chance seemed to depend upon a
+renewal of the sea-fight in the harbour. The supreme moment
+arrived. What remained of the Athenian fleet, in numbers still
+superior to that of their enemies, steered straight for the mouth
+of the harbour. The Syracusans advanced from the naval stations of
+Ortygia to meet them. The shore was thronged with spectators,
+Syracusans tremulous with the expectation of a decisive success,
+Athenians on the tenter-hooks <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg327"
+id="pg327">327</a></span> of hope and dread. In a short time the
+harbour became a confused mass of clashing triremes; the water
+beaten into bloody surf by banks of oars; the air filled with
+shouts from the combatants and exclamations from the lookers-on:
+&omicron;&lambda;&omicron;&phi;&upsilon;&rho;&mu;&#972;&sigmaf;,
+&beta;&omicron;&#942;,
+&nu;&iota;&kappa;&omicron;&nu;&tau;&epsilon;&sigmaf;,
+&kappa;&rho;&alpha;&tau;&omicron;&#973;&mu;&epsilon;&nu;&omicron;&iota;,
+&alpha;&lambda;&lambda;&alpha; &omicron;&sigma;&alpha; &epsilon;&nu;
+&mu;&epsilon;&gamma;&#940;&lambda;&omega;
+&kappa;&iota;&nu;&delta;&#973;&nu;&omega; &mu;&#941;&gamma;&alpha;
+&sigma;&tau;&rho;&alpha;&tau;&#972;&pi;&epsilon;&delta;&omicron;&nu;
+&pi;&omicron;&lambda;&upsilon;&epsilon;&iota;&delta;&eta;
+&alpha;&nu;&alpha;&gamma;&kappa;&#940;&zeta;&omicron;&iota;&tau;&omicron;
+&phi;&theta;&#941;&gamma;&gamma;&epsilon;&sigma;&theta;&alpha;&iota;.
+Then after a struggle, in which desperation gave energy to the
+Athenians, and ambitious hope inspired their foes with more than
+wonted vigour, the fleet of the Athenians was finally overwhelmed.
+The whole scene can be reproduced with wonderful distinctness; for
+the low shores of Plemmyrium, the city of Ortygia, the marsh of
+Lysimeleia, the hills above the Anapus, and the distant dome of
+Etna, are the same as they were upon that memorable day. Nothing
+has disappeared except the temple of Zeus Olympius and the
+buildings of Temenitis.</p>
+
+<p>What followed upon the night of that defeat is less easily
+realised. Thucydides, however, by one touch reveals the depth of
+despair to which the Athenians had sunk. They neglected to rescue
+the bodies of their dead from the Great Harbour, or to ask for a
+truce, according to hallowed Greek usage, in order that they might
+perform the funeral rites. To such an extent was the army
+demoralised. Meanwhile within the city the Syracusans kept high
+festival, honouring their patron Herakles, upon whose day it
+happened that the battle had been fought. Nikias neglected this
+opportunity of breaking up his camp and retiring unmolested into
+the interior of the island. When after the delay of two nights and
+a day he finally began to move, the Syracusans had blockaded the
+roads. How his own division capitulated by the blood-stained banks
+of the Asinarus after a six days' march of appalling misery, and
+how that of Demosthenes surrendered in the olive-field of
+Polyzelus, is too well known.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg328" id="pg328">328</a></span>
+One of the favourite excursions from modern Syracuse takes the
+traveller in a boat over the sandy bar of the Anapus, beneath the
+old bridge which joined the Helorine road to the city, and up the
+river to its junction with the Cyane. This is the ground traversed
+by the army first in their attempted flight and then in their
+return as captives to Syracuse. Few, perhaps, who visit the spot,
+think as much of that last act in a world-historical tragedy, as of
+the picturesque compositions made by arundo donax, castor-oil
+plant, yellow flags, and papyrus, on the river-banks and
+promontories. Like miniature palm-groves these water-weeds stand
+green and golden against the bright blue sky, feathering above the
+boat which slowly pushes its way through clinging reeds. The huge
+red oxen of Sicily in the marsh on either hand toss their spreading
+horns and canter off knee-deep in ooze. Then comes the fountain of
+Cyane, a broad round well of water, thirty feet in depth, but quite
+clear, so that you can see the pebbles at the bottom and fishes
+swimming to and fro among the weeds. Papyrus plants edge the pool;
+thick and tufted, they are exactly such as one sees carved or
+painted upon Egyptian architecture of the Ptolemaic period.</p>
+
+<p>With Thucydides still in hand, before quitting Syracuse we must
+follow the Athenian captives to their prison-grave. The Latomia de'
+Cappuccini is a place which it is impossible to describe in words,
+and of which no photographs give any notion. Sunk to the depth of a
+hundred feet below the level of the soil, with sides perpendicular
+and in many places as smooth as though the chisel had just passed
+over them, these vast excavations produce the impression of some
+huge subterranean gallery, widening here and there into spacious
+halls, the whole of which has been unroofed and opened to the air
+of heaven. It is a solemn and romantic labyrinth, where no wind
+blows rudely, and where orange-trees shoot <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg329" id="pg329">329</a></span> upward luxuriantly to meet
+the light. The wild fig bursts from the living rock, mixed with
+lentisk-shrubs and pendent caper-plants. Old olives split the
+masses of fallen cliff with their tough, snakelike, slowly corded
+and compacted roots. Thin flames of pomegranate-flowers gleam amid
+foliage of lustrous green; and lemons drop unheeded from femininely
+fragile branches. There too the ivy hangs in long festoons, waving
+like tapestry to the breath of stealthy breezes; while under foot
+is a tangle of acanthus, thick curling leaves of glossiest green,
+surmounted by spikes of dull lilac blossoms. Wedges and columns and
+sharp teeth of the native rock rear themselves here and there in
+the midst of the open spaces to the sky, worn fantastically into
+notches and saws by the action of scirocco. A light yellow calcined
+by the sun to white is the prevailing colour of the quarries. But
+in shady places the limestone takes a curious pink tone of great
+beauty, like the interior of some sea-shells. The reflected lights
+too, and half-shadows in their scooped-out chambers, make a
+wonderful natural chiaroscuro. The whole scene is now more
+picturesque in a sublime and grandiose style than forbidding. There
+is even one spot planted with magenta-coloured mesembrianthemums of
+dazzling brightness; and the air is loaded with the drowsy perfume
+of lemon-blossoms. Yet this is the scene of a great agony. This
+garden was once the Gethsemane of a nation, where 9000 free men of
+the proudest city of Greece were brought by an unexampled stroke of
+fortune to slavery, shame, and a miserable end. Here they dwindled
+away, worn out by wounds, disease, thirst, hunger, heat by day and
+cold by night, heart-sickness, and the insufferable stench of
+putrefying corpses. The pupils of Socrates, the admirers of
+Euripides, the orators of the Pnyx, the athletes of the Lyceum,
+lovers and comrades and philosophers, died here like dogs; and the
+dames of Syracuse stood doubtless on those parapets <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg330" id="pg330">330</a></span> above, and
+looked upon them like wild beasts. What the Gorgo of Theocritus
+might have said to her friend Praxinoe on the occasion would be the
+subject for an idyll <i>&agrave; la</i> Browning! How often, pining
+in those great glaring pits, which were not then curtained with ivy
+or canopied by olive-trees, must the Athenians have thought with
+vain remorse of their own Rhamnusian Nemesis, the goddess who held
+scales adverse to the hopes of men, and bore the legend 'Be not
+lifted up'! How often must they have watched the dawn walk forth
+fire-footed upon the edge of those bare crags, or the stars slide
+from east to west across the narrow space of sky! How they must
+have envied the unfettered clouds sailing in liquid ether, or
+traced the far flight of hawk and swallow, sighing, 'Oh that I too
+had the wings of a bird!' The weary eyes turned upwards found no
+change or respite, save what the frost of night brought to the fire
+of day, and the burning sun to the pitiless cold
+constellations.</p>
+
+<p>A great painter, combining Dor&eacute;'s power over space and
+distance with the distinctness of Flaxman's design and the
+colouring of Alma Tadema, might possibly realise this agony of the
+Athenian captives in the stone quarries. The time of day chosen for
+the picture should be full noon, with its glare of light and
+sharply defined vertical shadows. The crannies in the straight
+sides of the quarry should here and there be tufted with a few
+dusty creepers and wild fig-trees. On the edge of the sky-line
+stand parties of Syracusan citizens with their wives and children,
+shaded by umbrellas, richly dressed, laughing and triumphing over
+the misery beneath. In the full foreground there are placed two
+figures. A young Athenian has just died of fever. His body lies
+stretched along the ground, the head resting on a stone, and the
+face turned to the sky. Beside him kneels an older warrior,
+sunburned and dry with thirst, but full as yet of vigour. He stares
+with <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg331" id=
+"pg331">331</a></span> wide despair-smitten eyes straight out, as
+though he had lately been stretched upon the corpse, but had risen
+at the sound of movement, or some supposed word of friends close
+by. His bread lies untasted near him, and the half-pint of
+water&mdash;his day's portion&mdash;has been given to bathe the
+forehead of his dying friend. They have stood together through the
+festival of leave-taking from Peir&aelig;us, through the battles of
+Epipol&aelig;, through the retreat and the slaughter at the passage
+of the Asinarus. But now it has come to this, and death has found
+the younger. Perhaps the friend beside him remembers some cool
+wrestling-ground in far-off Athens, or some procession up the steps
+of the Acropolis, where first they met. Anyhow his fixed gaze now
+shows that he has passed in thought at least beyond the hell around
+him. Not far behind should be ranged groups of haggard men, with
+tattered clothes and dulled or tigerish eyes, some dignified, some
+broken down by grief; while here and there newly fallen corpses,
+and in one hideous corner a great heap of abandoned dead, should
+point the ghastly words of Thucydides: &tau;&omicron;&nu;
+&nu;&epsilon;&kappa;&rho;&omicron;&nu; &omicron;&mu;&omicron;&upsilon;
+&epsilon;&pi;'
+&alpha;&lambda;&lambda;&#942;&lambda;&omicron;&iota;&sigmaf;
+&xi;&upsilon;&nu;&nu;&epsilon;&nu;&eta;&mu;&#941;&nu;&omega;&nu;.</p>
+
+<p>Every landscape has some moment of its own at which it should be
+seen for the first time. Medi&aelig;val cities, with their narrow
+streets and solemn spires, demand the twilight of a summer night.
+Mediterranean islands show their best in the haze of afternoon,
+when sea and sky and headland are bathed in a&euml;rial blue, and
+the mountains seem to be made of transparent amethyst. The first
+sight of the Alps should be taken at sunset from some point of
+vantage, like the terrace at Berne, or the castle walls of
+Salzburg. If these fortunate moments be secured, all after
+knowledge of locality and detail serves to fortify and deepen the
+impression of picturesque harmony. The mind has then conceived a
+leading thought, which gives ideal unity to scattered memories and
+invests the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg332" id=
+"pg332">332</a></span> crude reality with an &aelig;sthetic beauty.
+The lucky moment for the landscape of Girgenti is half an hour past
+sunset in a golden afterglow. Landing at the port named after
+Empedocles, having caught from the sea some glimpses of
+temple-fronts emergent on green hill-slopes among almond-trees,
+with Pindar's epithet of 'splendour-loving' in my mind, I rode on
+such an evening up the path which leads across the Drago to
+Girgenti. The way winds through deep-sunk lanes of rich amber
+sandstone, hedged with cactus and dwarf-palm, and set with old
+gnarled olive-trees. As the sunlight faded, Venus shone forth in a
+luminous sky, and the deep yellows and purples overhead seemed to
+mingle with the heavy scent of orange-flowers from scarcely visible
+groves by the roadside. Saffron in the west and violet in the east
+met midway, composing a translucent atmosphere of mellow radiance,
+like some liquid gem&mdash;<i>dolce color d' oriental berillo</i>.
+Girgenti, far off and far up, gazing seaward, and rearing her
+topaz-coloured bastions into that gorgeous twilight, shone like the
+a&euml;rial vision of cities seen in dreams or imaged in the
+clouds. Hard and sharp against the sallow line of sunset, leaned
+grotesque shapes of cactuses like hydras, and delicate silhouettes
+of young olive-trees like sylphs: the river ran silver in the
+hollow, and the mountain-side on which the town is piled was solid
+gold. Then came the dirty dull interior of Girgenti, misnamed the
+magnificent. But no disenchantment could destroy the memory of that
+vision, and Pindar's
+&phi;&iota;&lambda;&#940;&gamma;&lambda;&alpha;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&Alpha;&kappa;&rho;&#940;&gamma;&alpha;&sigmaf; remains in my mind
+a reality.<a name="FNanchor_1_75" id="FNanchor_1_75" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_75" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_75" id="Footnote_1_75" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_75"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Lest I
+should seem to have overstated the splendour of this sunset view, I
+must remark that the bare dry landscape of the south is peculiarly
+fortunate in such effects. The local tint of the Girgenti rock is
+yellow. The vegetation on the hillside is sparse. There is nothing
+to prevent the colours of the sky being reflected upon the vast
+amber-tinted surface, which then glows with indescribable
+glory.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The temples of Girgenti are at the distance of two miles <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg333" id="pg333">333</a></span> from the
+modern town. Placed upon the edge of an irregular plateau which
+breaks off abruptly into cliffs of moderate height below them, they
+stand in a magnificent row between the sea and plain on one side,
+and the city and the hills upon the other. Their colour is that of
+dusky honey or dun amber; for they are not built of marble, but of
+sandstone, which at some not very distant geological period must
+have been a sea-bed. Oyster and scallop shells are embedded in the
+roughly hewn masonry, while here and there patches of a red
+deposit, apparently of broken coralline, make the surface crimson.
+The vegetation against which the ruined colonnades are relieved
+consists almost wholly of almond and olive trees, the bright green
+foliage of the one mingling with the greys of the other, and both
+enhancing the warm tints of the stone. This contrast of colours is
+very agreeable to the eye; yet when the temples were perfect it did
+not exist. There is no doubt that their surface was coated with a
+fine stucco, wrought to smoothness, toned like marble, and painted
+over with the blue and red and green decorations proper to the
+Doric style. This fact is a practical answer to those
+&aelig;sthetic critics who would fain establish that the Greeks
+practised no deception in their arts. The whole effect of the
+colonnades of Selinus and Girgenti must have been an illusion, and
+their surface must have needed no less constant reparation than the
+exterior of a Gothic cathedral. The sham jewellery frequently found
+in Greek tombs, and the curious mixture of marble with sandstone in
+the sculptures from Selinus, are other instances that Greeks no
+less than modern artists condescended to trickery for the sake of
+effect. In the series of the metopes from Selinus now preserved in
+the museum at Palermo, the flesh of the female persons is
+represented by white marble, while that of the men, together with
+the dresses and other accessories, is wrought of common <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg334" id="pg334">334</a></span> stone.
+Yet the basreliefs in which this peculiarity occurs belong to the
+best period of Greek sculpture, and the groups are not unworthy for
+spirit and design to be placed by the side of the metopes of the
+Parthenon. Most beautiful, for example, is the contrast between the
+young unarmed Hercules and the Amazon he overpowers. His naked
+man's foot grasps with the muscular energy of an athlete her soft
+and helpless woman's foot, the roughness of the sandstone and the
+smoothness of the marble really heightening the effect of
+difference.</p>
+
+<p>Though ranged in a row along the same cornice, the temples of
+Girgenti, originally at least six in number, were not so disposed
+that any of their architectural lines should be exactly parallel.
+The Greeks disliked formality; the carefully calculated
+<i>asymmetreia</i> in the disposition of their groups of buildings
+secured variety of effect as well as a broken surface for the
+display of light and shadow. This is very noticeable on the
+Acropolis of Athens, where, however regular may be the several
+buildings, all are placed at different angles to each other and the
+hill. Only two of the Girgenti temples survive in any degree of
+perfection&mdash;the so-called Concordia and the Juno Lacinia. The
+rest are but mere heaps of mighty ruins, with here and there a
+broken column, and in one place an angle of a pediment raised upon
+a group of pillars. The foundations of masonry which supported them
+and the drums of their gigantic columns are tufted with wild palm,
+aloe, asphodel, and crimson snapdragon. Yellow blossoming sage, and
+mint, and lavender, and mignonette, sprout in the crevices where
+snakes and lizards harbour. The grass around is gemmed with blue
+pimpernel and convolvulus. Gladiolus springs amid the young
+corn-blades beneath the almond-trees; while a beautiful little iris
+makes the most unpromising dry places brilliant with its delicate
+greys and blues. In cooler <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg335"
+id="pg335">335</a></span> and damper hollows, around the boles of
+old olives and under ruined arches, flourishes the tender acanthus,
+and the road-sides are gaudy with a yellow daisy flower, which may
+perchance be the
+&epsilon;&lambda;&#943;&chi;&rho;&upsilon;&sigma;&omicron;&sigmaf; of
+Theocritus. Thus the whole scene is a wilderness of brightness,
+less radiant but more touching than when processions of men and
+maidens bearing urns and laurel-branches, crowned with ivy or with
+myrtle, paced along those sandstone roads, chanting p&aelig;ans and
+prosodial hymns, toward the glistening porches and hyp&aelig;thral
+cells.</p>
+
+<p>The only temple about the name of which there can be no doubt is
+that of Zeus Olympius. A prostrate giant who once with nineteen of
+his fellows helped to support the roof of this enormous fane, and
+who now lies in pieces among the asphodels, remains to prove that
+this was the building begun by the Agrigentines after the defeat of
+the Phoenicians at the Himera, when slaves were many and spoil was
+abundant, and Hellas both in Sicily and on the mainland felt a more
+than usual thrill of gratitude to their ancestral deity. The
+greatest architectural works of the island, the temples of Segeste
+and Selinus, as well as those of Girgenti, were begun between this
+period and the Carthaginian invasion of 409 B.C. The victory of the
+Hellenes over the barbarians in 480 B.C., symbolised in the victory
+of Zeus over the enslaved Titans of this temple, gave a vast
+impulse to their activity and wealth. After the disastrous
+incursion of the same foes seventy years later, the western Greek
+towns of the island received a check from which they never
+recovered. Many of their noblest buildings remained unfinished. The
+question which rises to the lips of all who contemplate the ruins
+of this gigantic temple and its compeer dedicated to Herakles is
+this: Who wrought the destruction of works so solid and enduring?
+For what purpose of spite or interest were those vast
+columns&mdash;in the very flutings of which a man can stand with
+ease&mdash;felled like <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg336" id=
+"pg336">336</a></span> forest pines? One sees the mighty pillars
+lying as they sank, like swathes beneath the mower's scythe. Their
+basements are still in line. The drums which composed them have
+fallen asunder, but maintain their original relation to each other
+on the ground. Was it earthquake or the hand of man that brought
+them low? Poggio Bracciolini tells us that in the fifteenth century
+they were burning the marble buildings of the Roman Campagna for
+lime. We know that the Senator Brancaleone made havoc among the
+classic monuments occupied as fortresses by Frangipani and Savelli
+and Orsini. We understand how the Farnesi should have quarried the
+Coliseum for their palace. But here, at the distance of three miles
+from Girgenti, in a comparative desert, what army, or what band of
+ruffians, or what palace-builders could have found it worth their
+while to devastate mere mountains of sculptured sandstone? The
+Romans invariably respected Greek temples. The early Christians
+used them for churches:&mdash;and this accounts for the comparative
+perfection of the Concordia. It was in the age of the Renaissance
+that the ruin of Girgenti's noblest monuments occurred. The temple
+of Zeus Olympius was shattered in the fifteenth century, and in the
+next its fragments were used to build a breakwater. The demolition
+of such substantial edifices is as great a wonder as their
+construction. We marvel at the energy which must have been employed
+on their overthrow, no less than at the art which raised such
+blocks of stone and placed them in position.</p>
+
+<p>While so much remains both at Syracuse and at Girgenti to recall
+the past, we are forced here, as at Athens, to feel how very little
+we really know about Greek life. We cannot bring it up before our
+fancy with any clearness, but rather in a sort of hazy dream, from
+which some luminous points emerge. The entrance of an Olympian
+victor through the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg337" id=
+"pg337">337</a></span> breach in the city walls of Girgenti, the
+procession of citizens conducting old Timoleon in his chariot to
+the theatre, the conferences of the younger Dionysius with Plato in
+his guarded palace-fort, the stately figure of Empedocles presiding
+over incantations in the marshes of Selinus, the austerity of Dion
+and his mystic dream, the first appearance of stubborn Gylippus
+with long Laced&aelig;monian hair in the theatre of
+Syracuse,&mdash;such picturesque pieces of history we may fairly
+well recapture. But what were the daily occupations of the
+Sim&aelig;tha of Theocritus? What was the state dress of the
+splendid Queen Philistis, whose name may yet be read upon her seat,
+and whose face adorns the coins of Syracuse? How did the great
+altar of Zeus look, when the oxen were being slaughtered there by
+hundreds, in a place which must have been shambles and meat-market
+and temple all in one? What scene of architectural splendour met
+the eyes of the swimmers in the Piscina of Girgenti? How were the
+long hours of so many days of leisure occupied by the Greeks, who
+had each three pillows to his head in 'splendour-loving Acragas'?
+Of what sort was the hospitality of Gellias? Questions like these
+rise up to tantalise us with the hopelessness of ever truly
+recovering the life of a lost race. After all the labour of
+antiquary and the poet, nothing remains to be uttered but such
+moralisings as Sir Thomas Browne poured forth over the urns
+discovered at Old Walsingham: 'What time the persons of these
+ossuaries entered the famous nations of the dead, and slept with
+princes and counsellors, might admit a wide solution. But who were
+the proprietaries of these bones, or what bodies these ashes made
+up, were a question above antiquarism; not to be resolved by man,
+nor easily perhaps by spirits except we consult the provincial
+guardians, or tutelary observators.' Death reigns over the peoples
+of the past, and we must fain be satisfied to cry with <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg338" id="pg338">338</a></span> Raleigh: 'O
+eloquent, just, and mighty death! whom none could advise, thou hast
+persuaded; what none hath dared, thou hast done; and whom all the
+world hath flattered, thou only hast cast out of the world and
+despised: thou hast drawn together all the far-stretched greatness,
+all the pride, cruelty, and ambition of men, and covered it all
+over with these two narrow words, <i>hic jacet</i>.' Even so. Yet
+while the cadence of this august rhetoric is yet in our ears,
+another voice is heard as of the angel seated by a void and open
+tomb, 'Why seek ye the living among the dead?' The spirit of Hellas
+is indestructible, however much the material existence of the
+Greeks be lost beyond recovery; for the life of humanity is not
+many but one, not parcelled into separate moments but
+continuous.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg339" id=
+"pg339">339</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><a name="ATHENS" id="ATHENS" /><i>ATHENS</i></h3>
+
+<p>Athens, by virtue of scenery and situation, was predestined to
+be the motherland of the free reason of mankind, long before the
+Athenians had won by their great deeds the right to name their city
+the ornament and the eye of Hellas. Nothing is more obvious to one
+who has seen many lands and tried to distinguish their essential
+characters, than the fact that no one country exactly resembles
+another, but that, however similar in climate and locality, each
+presents a peculiar and well-marked property belonging to itself
+alone. The specific quality of Athenian landscape is
+light&mdash;not richness or sublimity or romantic loveliness or
+grandeur of mountain outline, but luminous beauty, serene exposure
+to the airs of heaven. The harmony and balance of the scenery, so
+varied in its details and yet so comprehensible, are sympathetic to
+the temperance of Greek morality, the moderation of Greek art. The
+radiance with which it is illuminated has all the clearness and
+distinction of the Attic intellect. From whatever point the plain
+of Athens with its semicircle of greater and lesser hills may be
+surveyed, it always presents a picture of dignified and lustrous
+beauty. The Acropolis is the centre of this landscape, splendid as
+a work of art with its crown of temples; and the sea, surmounted by
+the long low hills of the Morea, is the boundary to which the eye
+is irresistibly led. Mountains and islands and plain alike are made
+of limestone, hardening here and there into marble, broken <a name=
+"pg340" id="pg340"></a><span class="pagenum">340</span> into
+delicate and varied forms, and sprinkled with a vegetation of low
+shrubs and brushwood so sparse and slight that the naked rock in
+every direction meets the light. This rock is grey and colourless:
+viewed in the twilight of a misty day, it shows the dull, tame
+uniformity of bone. Without the sun it is asleep and sorrowful. But
+by reason of this very deadness, the limestone of Athenian
+landscape is always ready to take the colours of the air and sun.
+In noonday it smiles with silvery lustre, fold upon fold of the
+indented hills and islands melting from the brightness of the sea
+into the untempered brilliance of the sky. At dawn and sunset the
+same rocks array themselves with a celestial robe of rainbow-woven
+hues: islands, sea, and mountains, far and near, burn with saffron,
+violet, and rose, with the tints of beryl and topaz, sapphire and
+almandine and amethyst, each in due order and at proper distances.
+The fabled dolphin in its death could not have showed a more
+brilliant succession of splendours waning into splendours through
+the whole chord of prismatic colours. This sensitiveness of the
+Attic limestone to every modification of the sky's light gives a
+peculiar spirituality to the landscape. The hills remain in form
+and outline unchanged; but the beauty breathed upon them lives or
+dies with the emotions of the air from whence it emanates: the
+spirit of light abides with them and quits them by alternations
+that seem to be the pulses of an ethereally communicated life. No
+country, therefore, could be better fitted for the home of a race
+gifted with exquisite sensibilities, in whom humanity should first
+attain the freedom of self-consciousness in art and thought.
+&Alpha;&epsilon;&iota; &delta;&iota;&alpha;
+&lambda;&alpha;&mu;&pi;&rho;&omicron;&tau;&#940;&tau;&omicron;&upsilon;
+&beta;&alpha;&#943;&nu;&omicron;&nu;&tau;&epsilon;&sigmaf;
+&alpha;&beta;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+&alpha;&iota;&theta;&#941;&rho;&omicron;&sigmaf;&mdash;ever
+delicately moving through most translucent air&mdash;said Euripides
+of the Athenians: and truly the bright air of Attica was made to be
+breathed by men in whom the light of culture should begin to shine.
+&Iota;&omicron;&sigma;&tau;&#941;&phi;&alpha;&nu;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+is an epithet <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg341" id=
+"pg341">341</a></span> of Aristophanes for his city; and if not
+crowned with other violets, Athens wears for her garland the
+air-empurpled hills&mdash;Hymettus, Lycabettus, Pentelicus, and
+Parnes.<a name="FNanchor_1_76" id="FNanchor_1_76" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_76" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Consequently,
+while still the Greeks of Homer's age were Achaians, while Argos
+was the titular seat of Hellenic empire, and the mythic deeds of
+the heroes were being enacted in Thebes or Mycen&aelig;, Athens did
+but bide her time, waiting to manifest herself as the true godchild
+of Pallas, who sprang perfect from the brain of Zeus, Pallas, who
+is the light of cloudless heaven emerging after storms. And Pallas,
+when she planted her chosen people in Attica, knew well what she
+was doing. To the far-seeing eyes of the goddess, although the
+first-fruits of song and science and philosophy might be reaped
+upon the shores of the &AElig;gean and the islands, yet the days
+were clearly descried when Athens should stretch forth her hand to
+hold the lamp of all her founder loved for Europe. As the priest of
+Egypt told Solon: 'She chose the spot of earth in which you were
+born, because she saw that the happy temperament of the seasons in
+that land would produce the wisest of men. Wherefore the goddess,
+who was a lover both of war and wisdom, selected and first of all
+settled that spot which was the most likely to produce men likest
+herself.' This sentence from the 'Tim&aelig;us' of Plato<a name=
+"FNanchor_2_77" id="FNanchor_2_77" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_2_77" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> reveals the
+consciousness possessed by the Greeks of that intimate connection
+which subsists between a country and the temper of its race. To us
+the name Athenai&mdash;the fact that Athens by its title even in
+the prehistoric age was marked out as the appanage of her <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg342" id="pg342">342</a></span> who was
+the patroness of culture&mdash;seems a fortunate accident, an
+undesigned coincidence of the most striking sort. To the Greeks,
+steeped in mythologic faith, accustomed to regard their lineage as
+autochthonous and their polity as the fabric of a god, nothing
+seemed more natural than that Pallas should have selected for her
+own exactly that portion of Hellas where the arts and sciences
+might flourish best. Let the Boeotians grow fat and stagnant upon
+their rich marshlands: let the Spartans form themselves into a race
+of soldiers in their mountain fortress: let Corinth reign, the
+queen of commerce, between her double seas: let the Arcadians in
+their oak woods worship pastoral Pan: let the plains of Elis be the
+meeting-place of Hellenes at their sacred games: let Delphi boast
+the seat of sooth oracular from Phoebus. Meanwhile the sunny but
+barren hills of Attica, open to the magic of the sky, and beautiful
+by reason of their nakedness, must be the home of a people powerful
+by might of intelligence rather than strength of limb, wealthy not
+so much by natural resources as by enterprise. Here, and here only,
+could stand the city sung by Milton:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i7">Built nobly, pure the air, and light the
+soil,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts</div>
+
+<div class="i7">And eloquence, native to famous wits</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Or hospitable, in her sweet recess,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">City or suburban, studious walks and shades.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>We who believe in no authentic Pallas, child of Zeus, may yet
+pause awhile, when we contemplate Athens, to ponder whether those
+old mythologic systems, which ascribed to godhead the foundation of
+states and the patronage of peoples, had not some glimpse of truth
+beyond a mere blind guess. Is not, in fact, this Athenian land the
+promised and predestined home of a peculiar people, in the same
+sense as that <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg343" id=
+"pg343">343</a></span> in which Palestine was the heritage by faith
+of a tribe set apart by Jehovah for His own?</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_76" id="Footnote_1_76" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_76"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This
+interpretation of the epithet
+&Iota;&omicron;&sigma;&tau;&#941;&phi;&alpha;&nu;&omicron;&sigmaf;
+is not, I think, merely fanciful. It seems to occur naturally to
+those who visit Athens with the language of Greek poets in their
+memory. I was glad to find, on reading a paper by the Dean of
+Westminster on the topography of Greece, that the same thought had
+struck him. Ovid, too, gives the adjective <i>purpureus</i> to
+Hymettus.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_77" id="Footnote_2_77" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_77"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>
+Jowett's translation, vol. ii. p. 520.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Unlike Rome, Athens leaves upon the memory one simple and
+ineffaceable impression. There is here no conflict between Paganism
+and Christianity, no statues of Hellas baptised by popes into the
+company of saints, no blending of the classical and medi&aelig;val
+and Renaissance influences in a bewilderment of vast antiquity.
+Rome, true to her historical vocation, embraces in her ruins all
+ages, all creeds, all nations. Her life has never stood still, but
+has submitted to many transformations, of which the traces are
+still visible. Athens, like the Greeks of history, is isolated in a
+sort of self-completion: she is a thing of the past, which still
+exists, because the spirit never dies, because beauty is a joy for
+ever. What is truly remarkable about the city is just this, that
+while the modern town is an insignificant mushroom of the present
+century, the monuments of Greek art in the best period&mdash;the
+masterpieces of Ictinus and Mnesicles, and the theatre on which the
+plays of the tragedians were produced&mdash;survive in comparative
+perfection, and are so far unencumbered with subsequent edifices
+that the actual Athens of Pericles absorbs our attention. There is
+nothing of any consequence intermediate between us and the fourth
+century B.C.. Seen from a distance the Acropolis presents nearly
+the same appearance as it offered to Spartan guardsmen when they
+paced the ramparts of Deceleia. Nature around is all unaltered.
+Except that more villages, enclosed with olive-groves and
+vineyards, were sprinkled over those bare hills in classic days, no
+essential change in the landscape has taken place, no
+transformation, for example, of equal magnitude with that which
+converted the Campagna of Rome from a plain of cities to a
+poisonous solitude. All through the centuries which divide us from
+the age of Hadrian&mdash;centuries unfilled, as far as Athens is
+concerned, <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg344" id=
+"pg344">344</a></span> with memorable deeds or national
+activity&mdash;the Acropolis has stood uncovered to the sun. The
+tones of the marble of Pentelicus have daily grown more golden;
+decay has here and there invaded frieze and capital; war too has
+done its work, shattering the Parthenon in 1687 by the explosion of
+a powder magazine, and the Propyl&aelig;a in 1656 by a similar
+accident, and seaming the colonnades that still remain with
+cannon-balls in 1827. Yet in spite of time and violence the
+Acropolis survives, a miracle of beauty: like an everlasting
+flower, through all that lapse of years it has spread its coronal
+of marbles to the air, unheeded. And now, more than ever, its
+temples seem to be incorporate with the rock they crown. The slabs
+of column and basement have grown together by long pressure or
+molecular adhesion into a coherent whole. Nor have weeds or
+creeping ivy invaded the glittering fragments that strew the sacred
+hill. The sun's kiss alone has caused a change from white to
+amber-hued or russet. Meanwhile, the exquisite adaptation of Greek
+building to Greek landscape has been enhanced rather than impaired
+by that 'unimaginable touch of time,' which has broken the
+regularity of outline, softened the chisel-work of the sculptor,
+and confounded the painter's fretwork in one tint of glowing gold.
+The Parthenon, the Erechtheum, and the Propyl&aelig;a have become
+one with the hill on which they cluster, as needful to the scenery
+around them as the everlasting mountains, as sympathetic as the
+rest of nature to the successions of morning and evening, which
+waken them to passionate life by the magic touch of colour.</p>
+
+<p>Thus there is no intrusive element in Athens to distract the
+mind from memories of its most glorious past. Walk into the theatre
+of Dionysus. The sculptures that support the stage&mdash;Sileni
+bending beneath the weight of cornices, and lines of graceful
+youths and maidens&mdash;are still in their <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg345" id="pg345">345</a></span> ancient
+station.<a name="FNanchor_1_78" id="FNanchor_1_78" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_78" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The pavement of
+the orchestra, once trodden by Athenian choruses, presents its
+tessellated marbles to our feet; and we may choose the seat of
+priest or archon or herald or thesmothetes, when we wish to summon
+before our mind's eye the pomp of the 'Agamemnon' or the dances of
+the 'Birds' and 'Clouds.' Each seat still bears some carven
+name&mdash;&Iota;&Epsilon;&Rho;&Epsilon;&Omega;&Sigma;
+&Tau;&Omega;&Nu; &Mu;&Omicron;&Upsilon;&Sigma;&Omega;&Nu; or
+&Iota;&Epsilon;&Rho;&Epsilon;&Omega;&Sigma;
+&Alpha;&Sigma;&Kappa;&Lambda;&Eta;&Pi;&Iota;&Omicron;&Upsilon;&mdash;and
+that of the priest of Dionysus is beautifully wrought with Bacchic
+basreliefs. One of them, inscribed
+&Iota;&Epsilon;&Rho;&Epsilon;&Omega;&Sigma;
+&Alpha;&Nu;&Tau;&Iota;&Nu;&Omicron;&Omicron;&Upsilon;, proves
+indeed that the extant chairs were placed here in the age of
+Hadrian, who completed the vast temple of Zeus Olympius, and filled
+its precincts with statues of his favourite, and named a new Athens
+after his own name.<a name="FNanchor_2_79" id="FNanchor_2_79" /><a
+href="#Footnote_2_79" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Yet we need
+not doubt that their position round the orchestra is traditional,
+and that even in their form they do not differ from those which the
+priests and officers of Athens used from the time of &AElig;schylus
+downward. Probably a slave brought cushion and footstool to
+complete the comfort of these stately armchairs. Nothing else is
+wanted to render them fit now for their august occupants; and we
+may imagine the long-stoled greybearded men throned in state, each
+with his wand and with appropriate fillets on his head. As we rest
+here in the light of the full moon, which simplifies all outlines
+and heals with tender touch the wounds of ages, it is easy enough
+to dream ourselves into the belief that the ghosts of dead actors
+may once more glide across the stage. <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg346" id="pg346">346</a></span> Fiery-hearted Medea,
+statuesque Antigone, Prometheus silent beneath the hammer-strokes
+of Force and Strength, Orestes hounded by his mother's Furies,
+Cassandra aghast before the palace of Mycen&aelig;, pure-souled
+Hippolytus, ruthful Alcestis, the divine youth of Helen, and
+Clytemnestra in her queenliness, emerge like faint grey films
+against the bluish background of Hymettus. The night air seems
+vocal with echoes of old Greek, more felt than heard, like voices
+wafted to our sense in sleep, the sound whereof we do not seize,
+though the burden lingers in our memory.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_78" id="Footnote_1_78" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_78"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> It is
+true, however, that these sculptures belong to a comparatively late
+period, and that the theatre underwent some alterations in Roman
+days, so that the stage is now probably a few yards farther from
+the seats than in the time of Sophocles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2_79" id="Footnote_2_79" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_2_79"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> It is
+not a little surprising to come upon this relic of the worship of
+the young Bithynian at Athens in the theatre still consecrated by
+the memories of &AElig;schylus and Sophocles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In like manner, when moonlight, falling aslant upon the
+Propyl&aelig;a, restores the marble masonry to its original
+whiteness, and the shattered heaps of ruined colonnades are veiled
+in shadow, and every form seems larger, grander, and more perfect
+than by day, it is well to sit upon the lowest steps, and looking
+upwards, to remember what processions passed along this way bearing
+the sacred peplus to Athene. The Panathenaic pomp, which Pheidias
+and his pupils carved upon the friezes of the Parthenon, took place
+once in five years, on one of the last days of July.<a name=
+"FNanchor_1_80" id="FNanchor_1_80" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_80" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> All the citizens
+joined in the honour paid to their patroness. Old men bearing
+olive-branches, young men clothed in bronze, chapleted youths
+singing the praise of Pallas in prosodial hymns, maidens carrying
+holy vessels, aliens bending beneath the weight of urns, servants
+of the temple leading oxen crowned with fillets, troops of horsemen
+reining in impetuous steeds: all these pass before us in the frieze
+of Pheidias. But to our imagination must be left what he has
+refrained from sculpturing, the chariot formed like a ship, in
+which the most illustrious nobles of Athens sat, splendidly
+arrayed, beneath the crocus-coloured curtain or <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg347" id="pg347">347</a></span> peplus
+outspread upon a mast. Some concealed machinery caused this car to
+move; but whether it passed through the Propyl&aelig;a, and entered
+the Acropolis, admits of doubt. It is, however, certain that the
+procession which ascended those steep slabs, and before whom the
+vast gates of the Propyl&aelig;a swang open with the clangour of
+resounding bronze, included not only the citizens of Athens and
+their attendant aliens, but also troops of cavalry and chariots;
+for the mark of chariot-wheels can still be traced upon the rock.
+The ascent is so abrupt that this multitude moved but slowly.
+Splendid indeed, beyond any pomp of modern ceremonial, must have
+been the spectacle of the well-ordered procession, advancing
+through those giant colonnades to the sound of flutes and solemn
+chants&mdash;the shrill clear voices of boys in antiphonal chorus
+rising above the confused murmurs of such a crowd, the chafing of
+horses' hoofs upon the stone, and the lowing of bewildered
+oxen.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_80" id="Footnote_1_80" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_80"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> My
+purpose being merely picturesque, I have ignored the grave
+antiquarian difficulties which beset the interpretation of this
+frieze.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>To realise by fancy the many-coloured radiance of the temples,
+and the rich dresses of the votaries illuminated by that sharp
+light of a Greek sun, which defines outline and shadow and gives
+value to the faintest hue, would be impossible. All we can know for
+positive about the chromatic decoration of the Greeks is, that
+whiteness artificially subdued to the tone of ivory prevailed
+throughout the stonework of the buildings, while blue and red and
+green in distinct, yet interwoven patterns, added richness to the
+fretwork and the sculpture of pediment and frieze. The sacramental
+robes of the worshippers accorded doubtless with this harmony,
+wherein colour was subordinate to light, and light was toned to
+softness.</p>
+
+<p>Musing thus upon the staircase of the Propyl&aelig;a, we may say
+with truth that all our modern art is but child's play to that of
+the Greeks. Very soul-subduing is the gloom of a <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg348" id="pg348">348</a></span> cathedral like
+the Milanese Duomo, when the incense rises in blue clouds athwart
+the bands of sunlight falling from the dome, and the crying of
+choirs upborne upon the wings of organ music fills the whole vast
+space with a mystery of melody. Yet such ceremonial pomps as this
+are as dreams and the shapes of visions, when compared with the
+clearly defined splendours of a Greek procession through marble
+peristyles in open air beneath the sun and sky. That spectacle
+combined the harmonies of perfect human forms in movement with the
+divine shapes of statues, the radiance of carefully selected
+vestments with hues inwrought upon pure marble. The rhythms and the
+melodies of the Doric mood were sympathetic to the proportions of
+the Doric colonnades. The grove of pillars through which the
+pageant passed grew from the living rock into shapes of beauty,
+fulfilling by the inbreathed spirit of man Nature's blind yearning
+after absolute completion. The sun himself&mdash;not thwarted by
+artificial gloom, or tricked with alien colours of stained
+glass&mdash;was made to minister in all his strength to a pomp, the
+pride of which was the display of form in manifold magnificence.
+The ritual of the Greeks was the ritual of a race at one with
+Nature, glorying in its affiliation to the mighty mother of all
+life, and striving to add by human art the coping-stone and final
+touch to her achievement. The ritual of the Catholic Church is the
+ritual of a race shut out from Nature, holding no communion with
+the powers of earth and air, but turning the spirit inwards and
+aiming at the concentration of the whole soul upon an unseen God.
+The temple of the Greeks was the house of a present deity; its cell
+his chamber; its statue his reality. The Christian cathedral is the
+fane where God who is a spirit is worshipped; no statue fills the
+choir from wall to wall and lifts its forehead to the roof; but the
+vacant aisles, with their convergent arches soaring upwards <span
+class="pagenum"><a name="pg349" id="pg349">349</a></span> to the
+dome, are made to suggest the brooding of infinite and omnipresent
+Godhead. It was the object of the Greek artist to preserve a just
+proportion between the god's statue and his house, in order that
+the worshipper might approach him as a subject draws near to his
+monarch's throne. The Christian architect seeks to affect the
+emotions of the votary with a sense of vastness filled with unseen
+power. Our cathedrals are symbols of the universe where God is
+everywhere pavilioned and invisible. The Greek temple was a
+practical, utilitarian dwelling-house, made beautiful enough to
+suit divinity. The modern church is an idea expressed in stone, an
+aspiration of the spirit, shooting up from arch and pinnacle and
+spire into illimitable fields of air.</p>
+
+<p>It follows from these differences between the religious aims of
+Pagan and Christian architecture, that the former was far more
+favourable to the plastic arts. No beautiful or simple incident of
+human life was an inappropriate subject for the sculptor, in
+adorning the houses of gods who were themselves but human on a
+higher level; and the ritual whereby the gods were honoured was
+merely an exhibition, in its strength and joyfulness, of mortal
+beauty. Therefore the Panathenaic procession furnished Pheidias
+with a series of sculptural motives, which he had only to express
+according to the principles of his art. The frieze, three feet and
+four inches in height, raised forty feet above the pavement of the
+peristyle, ran for five hundred and twenty-four continuous feet
+round the outside wall of the cella of the Parthenon. The whole of
+this long line was wrought with carving of exquisite delicacy and
+supreme vigour, in such low relief as its peculiar position, far
+above the heads of the spectators, and only illuminated by light
+reflected from below, required. Each figure, each attitude, and
+each fold of drapery in its countless groups is a study; yet the
+whole was a transcript from actual contemporary <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg350" id="pg350">350</a></span> Athenian life.
+Truly in matters of art we are but infants to the Greeks.</p>
+
+<p>The topographical certainty which invests the ruins of the
+Acropolis with such peculiar interest, belongs in a less degree to
+the whole of Athens. Although the most recent researches have
+thrown fresh doubt upon the exact site of the Pnyx, and though no
+traces of the agora remain, yet we may be sure that the Bema from
+which Pericles sustained the courage of the Athenians during the
+Peloponnesian war, was placed upon the northern slope looking
+towards the Propyl&aelig;a, while the wide irregular space between
+this hill, the Acropolis, the Areopagus, and the Theseum, must have
+formed the meeting-ground for amusement and discussion of the
+citizens at leisure. About Areopagus, with its tribunal hollowed in
+the native rock, and the deep cleft beneath, where the shrine of
+the Eumenides was built, there is no question. The extreme
+insignificance of this little mound may at first indeed excite
+incredulity and wonder; but a few hours in Athens accustom the
+traveller to a smallness of scale which at first sight seemed
+ridiculous. Colonus, for example, the Colonus which every student
+of Sophocles has pictured to himself in the solitude of unshorn
+meadows, where groves of cypresses and olives bent unpruned above
+wild tangles of narcissus flowers and crocuses, and where the
+nightingale sang undisturbed by city noise or labour of the
+husbandman, turns out to be a scarcely appreciable mound, gently
+swelling from the cultivated land of the Cephissus. The Cephissus
+even in a rainy season may be crossed dryshod by an active jumper;
+and the Ilissus, where it flows beneath the walls of the
+Olympieion, is now dedicated to washerwomen instead of
+water-nymphs. Nature herself remains, on the whole, unaltered. Most
+notable are still the white poplars dedicated of old to Herakles,
+and the spreading planes which whisper to the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg351" id="pg351">351</a></span> limes in
+spring. In the midst of so arid and bare a landscape, these
+umbrageous trees are singularly grateful to the eye and to the
+sense oppressed with heat and splendour. Nightingales have not
+ceased to crowd the gardens in such numbers as to justify the
+tradition of their Attic origin, nor have the bees of Hymettus
+forgotten their labours: the honey of Athens can still boast a
+quality superior to that of Hybla or any other famous haunt of
+hives.</p>
+
+<p>Tradition points out one spot which commands a beautiful distant
+view of Athens and the hills, as the garden of the Academy. The
+place is not unworthy of Plato and his companions. Very old olives
+grow in abundance, to remind us of those sacred trees beneath which
+the boys of Aristophanes ran races; and reeds with which they might
+crown their foreheads are thickly scattered through the grass.
+Abeles interlace their murmuring branches overhead, and the planes
+are as leafy as that which invited Socrates and Ph&aelig;drus on
+the morning when they talked of love. In such a place we comprehend
+how philosophy went hand in hand at Athens with gymnastics, and why
+the poplar and the plane were dedicated to athletic gods. For the
+wrestling-grounds were built in groves like these, and their cool
+peristyles, the meeting-places of young men and boys, supplied the
+sages not only with an eager audience, but also with the leisure
+and the shade that learning loves.</p>
+
+<p>It was very characteristic of Greek life that speculative
+philosophy should not have chosen 'to walk the studious cloister
+pale,' but should rather have sought out places where 'the busy hum
+of men' was loudest, and where youthful voices echoed. The Athenian
+transacted no business, and pursued but few pleasures, under a
+private roof. He conversed and bargained in the agora, debated on
+the open rocks of the Pnyx, and enjoyed discussion in the courts of
+the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg352" id="pg352">352</a></span>
+gymnasium. It is also far from difficult to understand beneath this
+over-vaulted and grateful gloom of bee-laden branches, what part
+love played in the haunts of runners and of wrestlers, why near the
+statue of Hermes stood that of Er&ocirc;s, and wherefore Socrates
+surnamed his philosophy the Science of Love.
+&Phi;&iota;&lambda;&omicron;&sigma;&omicron;&phi;&omicron;&upsilon;&mu;&epsilon;&nu;
+&alpha;&nu;&epsilon;&upsilon;
+&mu;&alpha;&lambda;&alpha;&kappa;&#943;&alpha;&sigmaf; is the boast
+of Pericles in his description of the Athenian spirit.
+&Phi;&iota;&lambda;&omicron;&sigma;&omicron;&phi;&#943;&alpha;
+&mu;&epsilon;&tau;&alpha;
+&pi;&alpha;&iota;&delta;&epsilon;&rho;&alpha;&sigma;&tau;&#943;&alpha;&sigmaf;
+is Plato's formula for the virtues of the most distinguished soul.
+These two mottoes, apparently so contradictory, found their point
+of meeting and their harmony in the gymnasium.</p>
+
+<p>The mere contemplation of these luxuriant groves, set in the
+luminous Attic landscape, and within sight of Athens, explains a
+hundred passages of poets and philosophers. Turn to the opening
+scenes of the 'Lysis' and the 'Charmides.' The action of the latter
+dialogue is laid in the pal&aelig;stra of Taureas. Socrates has
+just returned from the camp at Potid&aelig;a, and after answering
+the questions of his friends, has begun to satisfy his own
+curiosity:<a name="FNanchor_1_81" id="FNanchor_1_81" /><a href=
+"#Footnote_1_81" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquotwide">
+<p>When there had been enough of this, I, in my turn, began to make
+inquiries about matters at home&mdash;about the present state of
+philosophy, and about the youth. I asked whether any of them were
+remarkable for beauty or sense&mdash;or both. Critias, glancing at
+the door, invited my attention to some youths who were coming in,
+and talking noisily to one another, followed by a crowd. 'Of the
+beauties, Socrates,' he said, 'I fancy that you will soon be able
+to form a judgment. For those who are just entering are the
+advanced guard of the great beauty of the day&mdash;and he is
+likely not to be far off himself.'</p>
+
+<p>'Who is he?' I said; 'and who is his father?'</p>
+
+<p>'Charmides,' he replied, 'is his name; he is my cousin, and the
+son of my uncle Glaucon: I rather think that you know him, although
+he was not grown up at the time of your departure.'</p>
+
+<p>'Certainly I know him,' I said; 'for he was remarkable even
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg353" id="pg353">353</a></span>
+then when he was still a child, and now I should imagine that he
+must be almost a young man.'</p>
+
+<p>'You will see,' he said, 'in a moment what progress he has made,
+and what he is like.' He had scarcely said the word, when Charmides
+entered.</p>
+
+<p>Now you know, my friend, that I cannot measure anything, and of
+the beautiful, I am simply such a measure as a white line is of
+chalk; for almost all young persons are alike beautiful in my eyes.
+But at that moment, when I saw him coming in, I must admit that I
+was quite astonished at his beauty and stature; all the world
+seemed to be enamoured of him; amazement and confusion reigned when
+he entered; and a troop of lovers followed him. That grown-up men
+like ourselves should have been affected in this way was not
+surprising, but I observed that there was the same feeling among
+the boys; all of them, down to the very least child, turned and
+looked at him as if he had been a statue.</p>
+
+<p>Chaerephon called me and said: 'What do you think of him,
+Socrates? Has he not a beautiful face?'</p>
+
+<p>'That he has indeed,' I said.</p>
+
+<p>'But you would think nothing of his face,' he replied, 'if you
+could see his naked form: he is absolutely perfect.'</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_81" id="Footnote_1_81" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_81"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> I quote
+from Professor Jowett's translation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>This Charmides is a true Greek of the perfect type. Not only is
+he the most beautiful of Athenian youths; he is also temperate,
+modest, and subject to the laws of moral health. His very beauty is
+a harmony of well-developed faculties in which the mind and body
+are at one. How a young Greek managed to preserve this balance in
+the midst of the admiring crowds described by Socrates is a marvel.
+Modern conventions unfit our minds for realising the conditions
+under which he had to live. Yet it is indisputable that Plato has
+strained no point in the animated picture he presents of the
+pal&aelig;stra. Aristophanes and Xenophon bear him out in all the
+details of the scene. We have to imagine a totally different system
+of social morality from ours, with virtues and vices, temptations
+and triumphs, unknown to our young men. The next scene from the
+'Lysis' introduces us to another wrestling-ground <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg354" id="pg354">354</a></span> in the
+neighbourhood of Athens. Here Socrates meets with Hippothales, who
+is a devoted lover but a bad poet. Hippothales asks the
+philosopher's advice as to the best method of pleasing the boy
+Lysis:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquotwide">
+<p>'Will you tell me by what words or actions I may become endeared
+to my love?'</p>
+
+<p>'That is not easy to determine,' I said; 'but if you will bring
+your love to me, and will let me talk with him, I may perhaps be
+able to show you how to converse with him, instead of singing and
+reciting in the fashion of which you are accused.'</p>
+
+<p>'There will be no difficulty in bringing him,' he replied; 'if
+you will only go into the house with Ctesippus, and sit down and
+talk, he will come of himself; for he is fond of listening,
+Socrates. And as this is the festival of the Herm&aelig;a, there is
+no separation of young men and boys, but they are all mixed up
+together. He will be sure to come. But if he does not come,
+Ctesippus, with whom he is familiar, and whose relation Menexenus
+is, his great friend, shall call him.'</p>
+
+<p>'That will be the way,' I said. Thereupon I and Ctesippus went
+towards the Pal&aelig;stra, and the rest followed.</p>
+
+<p>Upon entering we found that the boys had just been sacrificing;
+and this part of the festival was nearly come to an end. They were
+all in white array, and games at dice were going on among them.
+Most of them were in the outer court amusing themselves; but some
+were in a corner of the Apodyterium playing at odd-and-even with a
+number of dice, which they took out of little wicker baskets. There
+was also a circle of lookers-on, one of whom was Lysis. He was
+standing among the other boys and youths, having a crown upon his
+head, like a fair vision, and not less worthy of praise for his
+goodness than for his beauty. We left them, and went over to the
+opposite side of the room, where we found a quiet place, and sat
+down; and then we began to talk. This attracted Lysis, who was
+constantly turning round to look at us&mdash;he was evidently
+wanting to come to us. For a time he hesitated and had not the
+courage to come alone; but first of all, his friend Menexenus came
+in out of the court in the interval of his play, and when he saw
+Ctesippus and myself, came and sat by us; and then Lysis, seeing
+him, followed and sat down with him; and the other boys joined. I
+should observe that Hippothales, when he saw the <span class=
+"pagenum"><a name="pg355" id="pg355">355</a></span> crowd, got
+behind them, where he thought that he would be out of sight of
+Lysis, lest he should anger him; and there he stood and
+listened.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Enough has been quoted to show that beneath the porches of a
+Greek pal&aelig;stra, among the youths of Athens, who wrote no
+exercises in dead languages, and thought chiefly of attaining to
+perfect manhood by the harmonious exercise of mind and body in
+temperate leisure, divine philosophy must indeed have been charming
+both to teachers and to learners:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">Not harsh and crabbed, as dull fools suppose,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But musical as is Apollo's lute,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And a perpetual feast of nectared sweets</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Where no crude surfeit reigns.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are no remains above ground of the buildings which made
+the Attic gymnasia splendid. Nor are there in Athens itself many
+statues of the noble human beings who paced their porches and
+reclined beneath their shade. The galleries of Italy and the verses
+of the poets can alone help us to repeople the Academy with its
+mixed multitude of athletes and of sages. The language of
+Sim&aelig;tha, in Theocritus, brings the younger men before us:
+their cheeks are yellower than helichrysus with the down of youth,
+and their breasts shine brighter far than the moon, as though they
+had but lately left the 'fair toils of the wrestling-ground.' Upon
+some of the monumental tablets exposed in the burying-ground of
+Cerameicus and in the Theseum may be seen portraits of Athenian
+citizens. A young man holding a bird, with a boy beside him who
+carries a lamp or strigil; a youth, naked, and scraping himself
+after the games; a boy taking leave with clasped hands of his
+mother, while a dog leaps up to fawn upon his knee; a wine-party; a
+soul in Charon's boat; a husband parting from his wife: such are
+the simple <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg356" id=
+"pg356">356</a></span> subjects of these monuments; and under each
+is written &Chi;&Rho;&Eta;&Sigma;&Tau;&Epsilon;
+&Chi;&Alpha;&Iota;&Rho;&Epsilon;&mdash;Friend, farewell! The tombs
+of the women are equally plain in character: a nurse brings a baby
+to its mother, or a slave helps her mistress at the toilette table.
+There is nothing to suggest either the gloom of the grave or the
+hope of heaven in any of these sculptures. Their symbolism, if it
+at all exist, is of the least mysterious kind. Our attention is
+rather fixed upon the commonest affairs of life than on the secrets
+of death.</p>
+
+<p>As we wander through the ruins of Athens, among temples which
+are all but perfect, and gardens which still keep their ancient
+greenery, we must perforce reflect how all true knowledge of Greek
+life has passed away. To picture to ourselves its details, so as to
+become quite familiar with the way in which an Athenian thought and
+felt and occupied his time, is impossible. Such books as the
+'Charicles' of Becker or Wieland's 'Agathon' only increase our
+sense of hopelessness, by showing that neither a scholar's learning
+nor a poet's fancy can pierce the mists of antiquity. We know that
+it was a strange and fascinating life, passed for the most part
+beneath the public eye, at leisure, without the society of free
+women, without what we call a home, in constant exercise of body
+and mind, in the duties of the law-courts and the assembly, in the
+toils of the camp and the perils of the sea, in the amusements of
+the wrestling-ground and the theatre, in sportful study and
+strenuous play. We also know that the citizens of Athens, bred up
+under the peculiar conditions of this artificial life, became
+impassioned lovers of their city;<a name="FNanchor_1_82" id=
+"FNanchor_1_82" /><a href="#Footnote_1_82" class=
+"fnanchor">[1]</a> that the greatest generals, statesmen, poets,
+orators, artists, historians, and philosophers that the world can
+boast, were produced in the short space of a century and a half by
+a city <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg357" id=
+"pg357">357</a></span> numbering about 20,000 burghers. It is
+scarcely an exaggeration to say with the author of 'Hereditary
+Genius,' that the population of Athens, taken as a whole, was as
+superior to us as we are to the Australian savages. Long and
+earnest, therefore, should be our hesitation before we condemn as
+pernicious or unprofitable the instincts and the customs of such a
+race.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="Footnote_1_82" id="Footnote_1_82" /><a href=
+"#FNanchor_1_82"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>
+&Tau;&eta;&nu; &tau;&eta;&sigmaf;
+&pi;&#972;&lambda;&epsilon;&omega;&sigmaf;
+&delta;&#973;&nu;&alpha;&mu;&iota;&nu; &kappa;&alpha;&theta;'
+&epsilon;&mu;&epsilon;&rho;&alpha;&nu; &epsilon;&rho;&gamma;&omega;
+&theta;&epsilon;&omega;&mu;&#941;&nu;&omicron;&upsilon;&sigmaf;
+&kappa;&alpha;&iota;
+&epsilon;&rho;&alpha;&sigma;&tau;&alpha;&sigmaf;
+&gamma;&iota;&gamma;&nu;&omicron;&mu;&#941;&nu;&omicron;&upsilon;&sigmaf;
+&alpha;&upsilon;&tau;&eta;&sigmaf;.&mdash;Thuc. ii. 43.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The permanence of strongly marked features in of Greece, and the
+small scale of the whole country, add a vivid charm to the scenery
+of its great events. In the harbour of Peir&aelig;us we can
+scarcely fail to picture to ourselves the pomp which went forth to
+Sicily that solemn morning, when the whole host prayed together and
+made libations at the signal of the herald's trumpet. The nation of
+athletes and artists and philosophers were embarked on what seemed
+to some a holiday excursion, and for others bid fair to realise
+unbounded dreams of ambition or avarice. Only a few were
+heavy-hearted; but the heaviest of all was the general who had
+vainly dissuaded his countrymen from the endeavour, and fruitlessly
+refused the command thrust upon him. That was 'the morning of a
+mighty day, a day of crisis' for the destinies of Athens. Of all
+that multitude, how few would come again; of the empire which they
+made so manifest in its pride of men and arms, how little but a
+shadow would be left, when war and fever and the quarries of
+Syracuse had done their fore-appointed work! Yet no commotion of
+the elements, no eclipse or authentic oracle from heaven, was
+interposed between the arrogance of Athens and sure-coming Nemesis.
+The sun shone, and the waves laughed, smitten by the oars of
+galleys racing to &AElig;gina. Meanwhile Zeus from the watchtower
+of the world held up the scales of fate, and the balance of Athens
+was wavering to its fall.</p>
+
+<p>A few strokes of the oar carry us away from Peir&aelig;us to a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="pg358" id="pg358">358</a></span>
+scene fraught with far more thrilling memories. That little point
+of rock emergent from the water between Salamis and the mainland,
+bare, insignificant, and void of honour among islands to the
+natural eye, is Psyttaleia. A strange tightening at the heart
+assails us when we approach the centre-point of the most memorable
+battlefield of history. It was again 'the morning of a mighty day,
+a day of crisis' for the destinies, not of Athens alone, but of
+humanity, when the Persian fleet, after rowing all night up and
+down the channel between Salamis and the shore, beheld the face of
+Phoebus flash from behind Pentelicus and flood the Acropolis of
+Athens with fire. The Peir&aelig;ius recalls a crisis in the
+world's drama whereof the great actors were unconscious: fair winds
+and sunny waves bore light hearts to Sicily. But Psyttaleia brings
+before us the heroism of a handful of men, who knew that the
+supreme hour of ruin or of victory for their nation and themselves
+had come. Terrible therefore was the energy with which they prayed
+and joined their p&aelig;an to the trumpet-blast of dawn that
+blazed upon them from the Attic hills. And this time Zeus, when he
+heard their cry, saw the scale of Hellas mount to the stars. Let
+&AElig;schylus tell the tale; for he was there. A Persian is giving
+an account of the defeat of Salamis to Atossa:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">The whole disaster, O my queen, began</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With some fell fiend or devil,&mdash;I know not
+whence:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For thus it was; from the Athenian host</div>
+
+<div class="i4">A man of Hellas came to thy son, Xerxes,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Saying that when black night shall fall in
+gloom,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The Hellenes would no longer stay, but leap</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Each on the benches of his bark, and save</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Hither and thither by stolen flight their
+lives.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">He, when he heard thereof, discerning not</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The Hellene's craft, no, nor the spite of
+heaven,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To all his captains gives this edict forth:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">When as the sun doth cease to light the
+world,</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg359" id=
+"pg359">359</a></span> And darkness holds the precincts of the
+sky,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They should dispose the fleet in three close
+ranks,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">To guard the outlets and the water-ways;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Others should compass Ajax' isle around:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Seeing that if the Hellenes 'scaped grim
+death</div>
+
+<div class="i4">By finding for their ships some privy exit,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">It was ordained that all should lose their
+heads.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">So spake he, led by a mad mind astray,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor knew what should be by the will of
+heaven.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They, like well-ordered vassals, with assent</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Straightway prepared their food, and every
+sailor</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Fitted his oar-blade to the steady rowlock.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But when the sunlight waned and night apace</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Descended, every man who swayed an oar</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Went to the boats with him who wielded
+armour.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Then through the ship's length rank cheered rank in
+concert,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Sailing as each was set in order due:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And all night long the tyrants of the ships</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Kept the whole navy cruising to and fro.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Night passed: yet never did the host of
+Hellene</div>
+
+<div class="i4">At any point attempt their stolen sally;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Until at length, when day with her white
+steeds</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Forth shining, held the whole world under
+sway.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">First from the Hellenes with a loud clear cry</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Song-like, a shout made music, and therewith</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The echo of the rocky isle rang back</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Shrill triumph: but the vast barbarian host</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Shorn of their hope trembled; for not for
+flight</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The Hellenes hymned their solemn p&aelig;an
+then&mdash;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nay, rather as for battle with stout heart.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Then too the trumpet speaking fired our foes,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And with a sudden rush of oars in time</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They smote the deep sea at that clarion cry;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And in a moment you might see them all.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The right wing in due order well arrayed</div>
+
+<div class="i4">First took the lead; then came the serried
+squadron</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Swelling against us, and from many voices</div>
+
+<div class="i4">One cry arose: Ho! sons of Hellenes, up!</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Now free your fatherland, now free your sons,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Your wives, the fanes of your ancestral gods,</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg360" id=
+"pg360">360</a></span> Your fathers' tombs! Now fight you for your
+all.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Yea, and from our side brake an answering hum</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of Persian voices. Then, no more delay,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Ship upon ship her beak of biting brass</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Struck stoutly. 'Twas a bark, I ween, of
+Hellas</div>
+
+<div class="i4">First charged, dashing from a Tyrrhenian
+galleon</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Her prow-gear; then ran hull on hull
+pell-mell.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">At first the torrent of the Persian navy</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Bore up: but when the multitude of ships</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Were straitly jammed, and none could help
+another,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Huddling with brazen-mouthed beaks they
+clashed</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And brake their serried banks of oars
+together;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Nor were the Hellenes slow or slack to muster</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And pound them in a circle. Then ships' hulks</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Floated keel upwards, and the sea was covered</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With shipwreck multitudinous and with
+slaughter.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The shores and jutting reefs were full of
+corpses.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">In indiscriminate rout, with straining oar,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The whole barbarian navy turned and fled.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Our foes, like men 'mid tunnies, draughts of
+fishes,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With splintered oars and spokes of shattered
+spars</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Kept striking, grinding, smashing us: shrill
+shrieks</div>
+
+<div class="i4">With groanings mingled held the hollow deep,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Till night's dark eye set limit to the
+slaughter.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But for our mass of miseries, could I speak</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Straight on for ten days, I should never sum
+it:</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For know this well, never in one day died</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of men so many multitudes before.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>After a pause he resumes his narrative by describing
+Psyttaleia:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">There lies an island before Salamis,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Small, with scant harbour, which dance-loving
+Pan</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Is wont to tread, haunting the salt
+sea-beaches.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">There Xerxes placed his chiefs, that when the
+foes</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Chased from their ships should seek the sheltering
+isle,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They might with ease destroy the host of
+Hellas,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Saving their own friends from the briny
+straits.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Ill had he learned what was to hap; for when</div>
+
+<div class="i4">God gave the glory to the Greeks at sea,</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg361" id=
+"pg361">361</a></span> That same day, having fenced their flesh
+with brass,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They leaped from out their ships; and in a
+circle</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Enclosed the whole girth of the isle, that so</div>
+
+<div class="i4">None knew where he should turn; but many fell</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Crushed with sharp stones in conflict, and swift
+arrows</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Flew from the quivering bowstrings winged with
+murder.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">At last in one fierce onset with one shout</div>
+
+<div class="i4">They strike, hack, hew the wretches' limbs
+asunder,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Till every man alive had fallen beneath them.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Then Xerxes groaned, seeing the gulf unclose</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of grief below him; for his throne was raised</div>
+
+<div class="i4">High in the sight of all by the sea-shore.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Rending his robes, and shrieking a shrill
+shriek,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">He hurriedly gave orders to his host;</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Then headlong rushed in rout and heedless
+ruin.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Atossa makes appropriate exclamations of despair and horror.
+Then the messenger proceeds:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i4">The captains of the ships that were not
+shattered,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Set speedy sail in flight as the winds blew.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The remnant of the host died miserably,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Some in Boeotia round the glimmering springs</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Tired out with thirst; some of us scant of
+breath</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Escaped, with bare life to the Phocian
+bounds,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And land of Doris, and the Melian Gulf,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Where with kind draughts Spercheius soaks the
+soil.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Thence in our flight Achaia's ancient plain</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And Thessaly's stronghold received us worn</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For want of food. Most died in that fell
+place</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of thirst and famine; for both deaths were
+there.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Yet to Magnesia came we and the coast</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of Macedonia, to the ford of Axius,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">And Bolbe's canebrakes and the Pang&aelig;an
+range,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Edonian borders. Then in that grim night</div>
+
+<div class="i4">God sent unseasonable frost, and froze</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The stream of holy Strymon. He who erst</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Recked nought of gods, now prayed with
+supplication,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Bowing before the powers of earth and sky.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">But when the hosts from lengthy orisons</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Surceased, it crossed the ice-incrusted ford.</div>
+
+<div class="i4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="pg362" id=
+"pg362">362</a></span> And he among us who set forth before</div>
+
+<div class="i4">The sun-god's rays were scattered, now was
+saved.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">For blazing with sharp beams the sun's bright
+circle</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Pierced the mid-stream, dissolving it with
+fire.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">There were they huddled. Happy then was he</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Who soonest cut the breath of life asunder.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Such as survived and had the luck of living,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Crossed Thrace with pain and peril manifold,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">'Scaping mischance, a miserable remnant,</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Into the dear land of their homes. Wherefore</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Persia may wail, wanting in vain her
+darlings.</div>
+
+<div class="i4">This is the truth. Much I omit to tell</div>
+
+<div class="i4">Of woes by God wrought on the Persian race.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Upon this triumphal note it were well, perhaps, to pause. Yet
+since the sojourner in Athens must needs depart by sea, let us
+advance a little way farther beyond Salamis. The low shore of the
+isthmus soon appears; and there is the hill of Corinth and the site
+of the city, as desolate now as when Antipater of Sidon made the
+sea-waves utter a threnos over her ruins. 'The deathless Nereids,
+daughters of Oceanus,' still lament by the shore, and the Isthmian
+pines are as green as when their boughs were plucked to bind a
+victor's forehead. Feathering the grey rock now as then, they bear
+witness to the wisdom and the moderation of the Greeks, who gave to
+the conquerors in sacred games no wreath of gold, or title of
+nobility, or land, or jewels, but the honour of an illustrious
+name, the guerdon of a mighty deed, and branches taken from the
+wild pine of Corinth, or the olive of Olympia, or the bay that
+flourished like a weed at Delphi. What was indigenous and
+characteristic of his native soil, not rare and costly things from
+foreign lands, was precious to the Greek. This piety, after the
+lapse of centuries and the passing away of mighty cities, still
+bears fruit. Oblivion cannot wholly efface the memory of those
+great games while the fir-trees rustle to the sea-wind as of old.
+Down the gulf we pass, between mountain <span class="pagenum"><a
+name="pg363" id="pg363">363</a></span> range and mountain. On one
+hand, two peaked Parnassus rears his cope of snow aloft over
+Delphi; on the other, Erymanthus and Hermes' home, Cyllene, bar the
+pastoral glades of Arcady. Greece is the land of mountains, not of
+rivers or of plains. The titles of the hills of Hellas smite our
+ears with echoes of ancient music&mdash;Olympus and Cith&aelig;ron,
+Taygetus, Othrys, Helicon, and Ida. The headlands of the mainland
+are mountains, and the islands are mountain summits of a submerged
+continent. Austerely beautiful, not wild with an Italian
+luxuriance, nor mournful with Sicilian monotony of outline, nor yet
+again overwhelming with the sublimity of Alps, they seem the proper
+home of a race which sought its ideal of beauty in distinction of
+shape and not in multiplicity of detail, in light and not in
+richness of colouring, in form and not in size.</p>
+
+<p>At length the open sea is reached. Past Zante and Cephalonia we
+glide 'under a roof of blue Ionian weather;' or, if the sky has
+been troubled with storm, we watch the moulding of long glittering
+cloud-lines, processions and pomps of silvery vapour, fretwork and
+frieze of alabaster piled above the islands, pearled promontories
+and domes of rounded snow. Soon Santa Maura comes in
+sight:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem">
+<div class="stanza">
+<div class="i7">Leucat&aelig; nimbosa cacumina montis,</div>
+
+<div class="i7">Et formidatus nautis aperitur Apollo.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>Here Sappho leapt into the waves to cure love-longing, according
+to the ancient story; and he who sees the white cliffs chafed with
+breakers and burning with fierce light, as it was once my luck to
+see them, may well with Childe Harold 'feel or deem he feels no
+common glow.' All through the afternoon it had been raining, and
+the sea was running high beneath a petulant west wind. But just
+before evening, while yet there remained a hand's-breadth between
+the sea and the <span class="pagenum"><a name="pg364" id=
+"pg364">364</a></span> sinking sun, the clouds were rent and blown
+in masses about the sky. Rain still fell fretfully in scuds and
+fleeces; but where for hours there had been nothing but a monotone
+of greyness, suddenly fire broke and radiance and storm-clouds in
+commotion. Then, as if built up by music, a rainbow rose and grew
+above Leucadia, planting one foot on Actium and the other on
+Ithaca, and spanning with a horseshoe arch that touched the zenith,
+the long line of roseate cliffs. The clouds upon which this bow was
+woven were steel-blue beneath and crimson above; and the bow itself
+was bathed in fire&mdash;its violets and greens and yellows visibly
+ignited by the liquid flame on which it rested. The sea beneath,
+stormily dancing, flashed back from all its crest the same red
+glow, shining like a ridged lava-torrent in its first combustion.
+Then as the sun sank, the crags burned deeper with scarlet blushes
+as of blood, and with passionate bloom as of pomegranate or
+oleander flowers. Could Turner rise from the grave to paint a
+picture that should bear the name of 'Sappho's Leap,' he might
+strive to paint it thus: and the world would complain that he had
+dreamed the poetry of his picture. But who could <i>dream</i>
+anything so wild and yet so definite? Only the passion of
+orchestras, the fire-flight of the last movement of the C minor
+symphony, can in the realms of art give utterance to the spirit of
+scenes like this.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h3><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX">INDEX</a></h3>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Aar, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg020">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Abano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Abruzzi, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg230">230</a>, <a href="#pg235">235</a>, <a href=
+"#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Acciaiuoli, Agnolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Acciauoli, the, iii. <a href="#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Accolti, Bernardo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Accona, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a>, <a href=
+"#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Accoramboni, Camillo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Claudio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg089">89</a>:</li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Flaminio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg099">99</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg100">100</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg103">103</a> foll., <a href=
+"ii.html#pg118">118</a> foll., <a href=
+"ii.html#pg126">126</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Marcello, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a> foll., <a href=
+"ii.html#pg099">99</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg103">103</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg105">105</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Mario, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ottavio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Scipione, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Tarquinia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg089">89</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg092">92</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Vittoria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg089">89</a>-125</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Achilles, iii. <a href="#pg286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Achradina, iii. <a href="#pg321">321</a>, <a href=
+"#pg324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>Aci, iii. <a href="#pg287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Aci Castello, iii. <a href="#pg284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Acis and Galatea, iii. <a href="#pg284">284</a>, <a href=
+"#pg285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Acropolis, the, iii. <a href="#pg339">339</a>, <a href=
+"#pg344">344</a>, <a href="#pg347">347</a></li>
+
+<li>Actium, iii. <a href="#pg364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Adda, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg051">51</a>, <a href="i.html#pg062">62</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg063">63</a>, <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Addison, i. <a href="i.html#pg003">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Adelaide, Queen of Lothair, King of Italy, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Adelaisie (wife of Berald des Baux), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Adrian VI. (Pope), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Adriatic, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg003">3</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>&AElig;, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>&AElig;schylus, iii. <a href="#pg162">162</a>, <a href=
+"#pg271">271</a>, <a href="#pg345">345</a>, <a href=
+"#pg358">358</a>-362</li>
+
+<li>Aff&ograve;, Padre Ireneo, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg363">363</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Agrigentines, the, iii. <a href="#pg335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Agrigentum, iii. <a href="#pg266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Ajaccio, i. <a href="i.html#pg104">104</a>-120</li>
+
+<li>Alamanni, Antonio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Alban Hills, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg032">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Albany, Countess of, i. <a href="i.html#pg352">352</a></li>
+
+<li>Alberti, house of the, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg213">213</a></li>
+
+<li>Alberti, Leo Battista, i. <a href="i.html#pg216">216</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg021">21</a>-29; iii. <a href=
+"#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Albizzi, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg209">209</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg213">213</a> foll.,
+<a href="ii.html#pg221">221</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Albizzi, Maso degli, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg213">213</a>-215</li>
+
+<li>Albizzi, Rinaldo degli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg215">215</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg218">218</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg220">220</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg221">221</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Albula, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg128">128</a>;</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Pass of, i. <a href="i.html#pg053">53</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Aleotti, Giambattista, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Alexander the Great, iii. <a href="#pg262">262</a></li>
+
+<li>Alexander VI., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg074">74</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg237">237</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg363">363</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Alexandria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg019">19</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg189">189</a>, <a href="#pg190">190</a>, <a href=
+"#pg201">201</a>, <a href="#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Alfieri, i. <a href="i.html#pg342">342</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg345">345</a>-359</li>
+
+<li>Alfonso of Aragon, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg203">203</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg189">189</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Alps, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a>-67, <a href=
+"i.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href="i.html#pg123">123</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg126">126</a>, <a href="i.html#pg133">133</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg209">209</a>, <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg008">8</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg129">129</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a> _et passim_</li>
+
+<li>Amadeo, Gian Antonio, i. <a href="i.html#pg146">146</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg150">150</a>, <a href="i.html#pg151">151</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg191">191</a>-193, <a href=
+"i.html#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Amalasuntha, daughter of Theodoric the Ostrogoth, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg013">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Amalfi, i. <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_; iii. <a
+href="#pg250">250</a>-261</li>
+
+<li>Ambrogini family, iii. <a href="#pg101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Ambrogini, Angelo. (_See_ Poliziano, Angelo)</li>
+
+<li>Ambrogini, Benedetto, iii. <a href="#pg101">101</a>, <a href=
+"#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Ampezzo, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Ana-Capri, iii. <a href="#pg231">231</a>, <a href=
+"#pg232">232</a>, <a href="#pg271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Anapus, the, iii. <a href="#pg326">326</a>, <a href=
+"#pg328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Anchises, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Ancona, i. <a href="i.html#pg196">196</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg198">198</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg055">55</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg199">199</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Ancona, Professor d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg276">276</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Andrea, Giovann', i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Andreini, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Angeli, Niccolo, iii. <a href="#pg151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Angelico, Fra, i. <a href="i.html#pg100">100</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg240">240</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg049">49</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href="#pg061">61</a>, <a href=
+"#pg147">147</a>-149, <a href="#pg151">151</a>, <a href=
+"#pg248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Angelo, S., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Angelo, Giovan. (_See_ Pius IV.)</li>
+
+<li>Angiolieri, Cecco, iii. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a> <a href=
+"#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Anguillara, Deifobo, Count of, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Anjou, house of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Ansano, S., iii. <a href="#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Anselmi, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Antegnate, i. <a href="i.html#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Antelao, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Antibes, i. <a href="i.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Antino&euml;, iii. <a href="#pg191">191</a>, <a href=
+"#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Antinoopolis, iii. <a href="#pg191">191</a>, <a href=
+"#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Antinous, iii. <a href="#pg184">184</a>-197, <a href=
+"#pg200">200</a>-229</li>
+
+<li>Antipater, iii. <a href="#pg322">322</a>, <a href=
+"#pg362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Antiquari, Jacobo, iii. <a href="#pg126">126</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Antonio da Venafro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Aosta, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Apennines, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg099">99</a>, <a href="i.html#pg133">133</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg007">7</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg008">8</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg037">37</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg062">62</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg065">65</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg132">132</a> foll., <a href=
+"ii.html#pg145">145</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg091">91</a> _et passim_</li>
+
+<li>Apollonius of Tyana, iii. <a href="#pg216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Apulia, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_; iii. <a href=
+"#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Aquaviva, Dominico d', ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Aquila, i. <a href="i.html#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Aragazzi, Bartolommeo, iii. <a href="#pg095">95</a>-100</li>
+
+<li>Aragon, Kings of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Arausio, i. <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Archimedes, iii. <a href="#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Arcipreti family, the, iii. <a href="#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Ardoin of Milan, iii. <a href="#pg299">299</a>, <a href=
+"#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Aretine, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Aretino, Pietro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Aretino, Spinello, iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Aretusi, Cesare, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Arezzo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg214">214</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg007">7</a>, <a href="#pg091">91</a>, <a href="#pg096">96</a>,
+<a href="#pg151">151</a> _note_;</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Bishop of, iii. <a href="#pg074">74</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Ariosto, i. <a href="i.html#pg071">71</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg264">264</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg280">280</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg336">336</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Aristides, iii. <a href="#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Aristophanes, i. <a href="i.html#pg084">84</a> _note_; iii. <a
+href="#pg161">161</a>, <a href="#pg341">341</a>, <a href=
+"#pg351">351</a>, <a href="#pg353">353</a></li>
+
+<li>Aristotle, i. <a href="i.html#pg249">249</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg074">74</a>; iii. <a href="#pg309">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Aristoxenus, iii. <a href="#pg262">262</a>, <a href=
+"#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Arles, i. <a href="i.html#pg076">76</a>-81;</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>King of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Arno, the, iii. <a href="#pg091">91</a>;</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul>
+<li>valley of, iii. <a href="#pg041">41</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="noindent">
+<li>Arosa, valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg033">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Arqua, i. <a href="i.html#pg167">167</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Arrian, iii. <a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Aruns, iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Ascham, Roger, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Asciano, iii. <a href="#pg086">86</a>, <a href=
+"#pg087">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Asinarus, iii. <a href="#pg327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Assisi, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg039">39</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg043">43</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg044">44</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>; iii. <a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a
+href="#pg068">68</a>, <a href="#pg111">111</a>, <a href=
+"#pg114">114</a>, <a href="#pg140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Asso, the, iii. <a href="#pg108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Asti, i. <a href="i.html#pg347">347</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg348">348</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Astolphus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Athens, i. <a href="i.html#pg243">243</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg156">156</a>, <a href="#pg169">169</a>, <a href=
+"#pg182">182</a>, <a href="#pg188">188</a>, <a href=
+"#pg207">207</a>, <a href="#pg323">323</a>, <a href=
+"#pg339">339</a>-364</li>
+
+<li>Athens, Duke of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg207">207</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg208">208</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Atrani, iii. <a href="#pg251">251</a>, <a href=
+"#pg254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Attendolo, Sforza, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Atti, Isotta degli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg017">17</a> and
+_note_, <a href="ii.html#pg020">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Augustine, S., i. <a href="i.html#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Augustus, Emperor, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>; iii. <a href="#pg215">215</a></li>
+
+<li>Aurelius, Marcus, iii. <a href="#pg164">164</a>, <a href=
+"#pg200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Ausonias, iii. <a href="#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Aversa, iii. <a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a href=
+"#pg299">299</a>, <a href="#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Avignon, i. <a href="i.html#pg069">69</a>-71, <a href=
+"i.html#pg077">77</a>, <a href="i.html#pg081">81</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg086">86</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg051">51</a>, <a href="#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Azzo (progenitor of Este and Brunswick), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Azzo (son of Sigifredo), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Badrutt, Herr Caspar, i. <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Baffo, i. <a href="i.html#pg259">259</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Baganza, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Baglioni, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg071">71</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg236">236</a>; iii. <a href="#pg081">81</a>, <a
+href="#pg113">113</a>-115, <a href="#pg119">119</a>-136</li>
+
+<li>Baglioni, Annibale, iii. <a href="#pg132">132</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Astorre, iii. <a href="#pg113">113</a>, <a href=
+"#pg114">114</a>, <a href="#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"#pg122">122</a>, <a href="#pg125">125</a>, <a href=
+"#pg126">126</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Atalanta, iii. <a href="#pg116">116</a>, <a href=
+"#pg124">124</a>, <a href="#pg127">127</a>-129:</li>
+
+<li>Braccio, iii. <a href="#pg134">134</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Carlo Barciglia, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Constantino, iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Eusebio, iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Filene, iii. <a href="#pg132">132</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Galeotto, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a>, <a href=
+"#pg132">132</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gentile, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg042">42</a>, iii. <a href=
+"#pg122">122</a>, <a href="#pg132">132</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gian-Paolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg220">220</a>, iii. <a href="#pg116">116</a>, <a href=
+"#pg117">117</a>, <a href="#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"#pg125">125</a>, <a href="#pg127">127</a>, <a href=
+"#pg128">128</a>, <a href="#pg130">130</a>-132:</li>
+
+<li>Gismondo, iii. <a href="#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"#pg126">126</a>, <a href="#pg127">127</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Grifone, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Grifonetto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, iii. <a href=
+"#pg113">113</a>, <a href="#pg114">114</a>, <a href=
+"#pg124">124</a>-129:</li>
+
+<li>Guido, iii. <a href="#pg121">121</a>, <a href="#pg126">126</a>,
+<a href="#pg127">127</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ippolita, iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Malatesta, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg254">254</a>, iii. <a href="#pg127">127</a>, <a href=
+"#pg132">132</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Marcantonio, iii. <a href="#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"#pg125">125</a>, <a href="#pg130">130</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Morgante, iii. <a href="#pg119">119</a> _note_ 2:</li>
+
+<li>Niccolo, iii. <a href="#pg120">120</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Orazio, iii. <a href="#pg127">127</a>, <a href=
+"#pg132">132</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Pandolfo, iii. <a href="#pg120">120</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Pietro Paolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ridolfo (1), iii. <a href="#pg120">120</a>, <a href=
+"#pg121">121</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ridolfo (2), iii. <a href="#pg133">133</a>, <a href=
+"#pg134">134</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Simonetto, iii. <a href="#pg123">123</a>, <a href=
+"#pg124">124</a>, <a href="#pg126">126</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Taddeo, iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Troilo, iii. <a href="#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"#pg127">127</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Bai&aelig;, iii. <a href="#pg242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Balzac, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Bandello, i. <a href="i.html#pg155">155</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg157">157</a>, <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg270">270</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg116">116</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Bandinelli, Messer Francesco, iii. <a href=
+"#pg010">10</a>-12</li>
+
+<li>Barano, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>-58</li>
+
+<li>Barbarossa, Frederick, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg201">201</a>; iii. <a href="#pg007">7</a>, <a
+href="#pg271">271</a>, <a href="#pg290">290</a>, <a href=
+"#pg306">306</a> _note_ 2</li>
+
+<li>Bari, Duke of. (_See_ Sforza, Lodovico)</li>
+
+<li>Bartolo, San, iii. <a href="#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Bartolommeo, Fra, iii. <a href="#pg063">63</a>, <a href=
+"#pg099">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Basaiti, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Basella, i. <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Basinio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Basle, i. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Bassano, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Bastelica, i. <a href="i.html#pg109">109</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg113">113</a>, <a href="i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Bastia, Matteo di, i. <a href="i.html#pg216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Battagli, Gian Battista, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Battifolle, Count Simone da, iii. <a href="#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Baudelaire, iii. <a href="#pg280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>Baveno, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Bayard, i. <a href="i.html#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bazzi, Giovannantonio. (_See_ Sodoma)</li>
+
+<li>Beatrice, Countess, iii. <a href="#pg144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Beatrice, Dante's, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Beatrice of Lorraine, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Beaumarchais, i. <a href="i.html#pg228">228</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg229">229</a>, <a href="i.html#pg234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Beaumont and Fletcher, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Becchi, Gentile, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Beethoven, i. <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg249">249</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Belcari, Feo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Belcaro, iii. <a href="#pg066">66</a>, <a href=
+"#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Belisarius, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg290">290</a></li>
+
+<li>Bellagio, i. <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Bellano, i. <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Belleforest, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Bellini, Gentile, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Bellini, Gian, i. <a href="i.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg269">269</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg055">55</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Bellinzona, i. <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Bembo, Pietro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg082">82</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Benci, Spinello, iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Benedict, S., iii. <a href="#pg073">73</a>, <a href=
+"#pg081">81</a>, <a href="#pg085">85</a>, <a href=
+"#pg248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Benevento, iii. <a href="#pg251">251</a>, <a href=
+"#pg252">252</a>, <a href="#pg299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Benincasa, Jacopo (father of S. Catherine of Siena), iii. <a
+href="#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Benivieni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Bentivogli, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg178">178</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Bentivogli, Alessandro de', i. <a href="i.html#pg155">155</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Bentivogli, Ercole de', ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Bentivoglio, Ermes, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Benzone, Giorgio, i. <a href="i.html#pg194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Beral des Baux, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Berang&egrave;re des Baux, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Berceto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg131">131</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Berenger, King of Italy, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Berenger, Raymond, i. <a href="i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Bergamo, i. <a href="i.html#pg190">190</a>-207; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernardino, S., iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a>, <a href=
+"#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernardo, iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a>-75</li>
+
+<li>Bernardo da Campo, i. <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Berne, i. <a href="i.html#pg020">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernhardt, Madame, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Berni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernina, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg037">37</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg055">55</a>-57, <a href="i.html#pg060">60</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href="i.html#pg126">126</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Bernini, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Bersaglio, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Bervic, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Besa, iii. <a href="#pg190">190</a>, <a href="#pg191">191</a>,
+<a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Besozzi, Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg156">156</a></li>
+
+<li>Bevagna, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg038">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Beyle, Henri, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Bianco, Bernardo, i. <a href="i.html#pg177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Bibbiena, Cardinal, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg082">82</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Bibboni, Francesco, or Cecco, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg327">327</a>-341</li>
+
+<li>Bion, i. <a href="i.html#pg152">152</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Biondo, Flavio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg028">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Bisola, Lodovico, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Bithynia, iii. <a href="#pg208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Bithynium, iii. <a href="#pg187">187</a>, <a href=
+"#pg208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Blacas (a knight of Provence), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Blake, the poet, i. <a href="i.html#pg101">101</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg265">265</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg166">166</a>, <a href="#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Boccaccio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg007">7</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg208">208</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg260">260</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg272">272</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg277">277</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg334">334</a>; iii. <a href="#pg016">16</a>, <a
+href="#pg050">50</a>, <a href="#pg248">248</a>, <a href=
+"#pg293">293</a></li>
+
+<li>Bocognano, i. <a href="i.html#pg109">109</a>-111, <a href=
+"i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Bohemond, Prince of Tarentum, iii. <a href="#pg297">297</a>, <a
+href="#pg298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Boiardo, Matteo Maria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Boldoni, Polidoro, i. <a href="i.html#pg183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Bologna, i. <a href="i.html#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg155">155</a>, <a href="i.html#pg192">192</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg196">196</a>, <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg029">29</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Bologna, Gian, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg086">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Bolsena, iii. <a href="#pg140">140</a>, <a href=
+"#pg141">141</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Lake of, iii. <a href="#pg022">22</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Bona of Savoy (wife of Galeazzo Maria Sforza), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg230">230</a></li>
+
+<li>Bondeno de' Roncori, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Bonifazio (of Canossa), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg169">169</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Bordighera, i. <a href="i.html#pg102">102</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Bordone, Paris, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Borgia family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg117">117</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg363">363</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Borgia, Cesare, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg073">73</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg074">74</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg080">80</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg126">126</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg363">363</a> _note_; iii. <a href=
+"#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Borgia, Lucrezia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg363">363</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Borgia, Roderigo, i. <a href="i.html#pg220">220</a>. (_See
+also_ Alexander VI.)</li>
+
+<li>Borgognone, Ambrogio, i. <a href="i.html#pg146">146</a>-148;
+iii. <a href="#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Bormio, i. <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Borromeo family, iii. <a href="#pg014">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Borromeo, Carlo, i. <a href="i.html#pg182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Borromeo, Count Giberto, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Boscoli, i. <a href="i.html#pg341">341</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Bosola, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Botticelli, Sandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg266">266</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg029">29</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg180">180</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>B&ouml;tticher, Charles, iii. <a href="#pg225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Bourbon, Duke of, i. <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Constable of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg252">252</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Bracciano, Duke of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a> foll.,
+<a href="ii.html#pg104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Bracciano, second Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg093">93</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg099">99</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Braccio, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href="i.html#pg204">204</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg207">207</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Braccio, Filippo da, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a>-126</li>
+
+<li>Bracciolini, Poggio, iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a>, <a href=
+"#pg336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Bragadin, Aloisio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Bramante, i. <a href="i.html#pg216">216</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Brancacci, Cardinal, iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Brancaleone, Senator, iii. <a href="#pg336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Brancaleoni family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Bregaglia, i. <a href="i.html#pg035">35</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Brenner, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Brenta, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Brescia, i. <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg200">200</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Brest, Anna Maria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Brianza, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Brolio, iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Bronte, iii. <a href="#pg279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Browne, Sir Thomas, i. <a href="i.html#pg044">44</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Browning, Robert, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg281">281</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Browning, Mrs., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg271">271</a>; iii. <a href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Bruni, Lionardo, iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a>, <a href=
+"#pg098">98</a>, <a href="#pg099">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Buol family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg036">36</a>, <a href="i.html#pg040">40</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg041">41</a>, <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Buol, Herr, i. <a href="i.html#pg034">34</a>-36</li>
+
+<li>Buonaparte family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg119">119</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Buonarroti, Michel Angelo, i. <a href="i.html#pg176">176</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg193">193</a>, <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg236">236</a>, <a href="i.html#pg243">243</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg021">21</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg040">40</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg152">152</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg158">158</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg161">161</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg178">178</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg332">332</a>; iii. <a href="#pg020">20</a>, <a
+href="#pg022">22</a>, <a href="#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"#pg146">146</a>, <a href="#pg150">150</a>, <a href=
+"#pg154">154</a>, <a href="#pg161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Buonconvento, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a>, <a href=
+"#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Burano, i. <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Burgundy, Duke of, i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Burne-Jones, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Busti, Agostino, i. <a href="i.html#pg159">159</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg161">161</a>, <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Byron, i. <a href="i.html#pg280">280</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg007">7</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg013">13</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg146">146</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg162">162</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Cadenabbia, i. <a href="i.html#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Cadore, i. <a href="i.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>C&aelig;sarea, ii. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Cagli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Cajano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg221">221</a></li>
+
+<li>Calabria, iii. <a href="#pg305">305</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>mountains of, iii.? <a href="#pg288">288</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Calabria, Duke of, iii. <a href="#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Calascibetta, iii. <a href="#pg302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Caldora, Giovanni Antonio, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Caldora, Jacopo, i. <a href="i.html#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Caligula, i. <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>-136; iii. <a href=
+"#pg002">2</a>, <a href="#pg156">156</a>, <a href="#pg163">163</a>,
+<a href="#pg197">197</a>, <a href="#pg273">273</a>, <a href=
+"#pg274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Calles (Cagli), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Camargue, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg078">78</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Camerino, Duchy of, i. <a href="i.html#pg185">185</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Campagna, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg032">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Campaldino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Campanella, iii. <a href="#pg020">20</a>, <a href=
+"#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Camp&egrave;ll (or Campb&egrave;ll) family, the i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href="i.html#pg062">62</a> and
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Campione, i. <a href="i.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Canale, Messer Carlo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg363">363</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Cannaregio, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href="i.html#pg339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Cannes, i. <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Canonge, Jules, i. <a href="i.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Canossa, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg163">163</a>-179</li>
+
+<li>Cant&ugrave;, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Cap S. Martin, i. <a href="i.html#pg090">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Capello, Bianca, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg093">93</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Capponi, Agostino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Capponi, Niccolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Capri, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg058">58</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg242">242</a>, <a href="#pg256">256</a>, <a href=
+"#pg269">269</a>-276</li>
+
+<li>Caracalla, i. <a href="i.html#pg135">135</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Cardona, Viceroy, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Carducci, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Carini, Baronessa di, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Carlyle (quoted), i. <a href="i.html#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Carmagnola, i. <a href="i.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg200">200</a>, <a href="i.html#pg208">208</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Carmagnuola, Bussoni di, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg017">17</a>
+and _note_</li>
+
+<li>Carpaccio, Vittore, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg270">270</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg042">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Carpegna, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Carpi, Duchy of, i. <a href="i.html#pg185">185</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Carpi, the princes of, i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Carrara range, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg134">134</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg146">146</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg218">218</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Casamicciola, iii. <a href="#pg234">234</a>, <a href=
+"#pg239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Casanova, i. <a href="i.html#pg259">259</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Cascese, Santi da, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Casentino, iii. <a href="#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Cassinesi, the, iii. <a href="#pg248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Cassius, Dion, iii. <a href="#pg191">191</a>, <a href=
+"#pg193">193</a>, <a href="#pg195">195</a>-197, <a href=
+"#pg219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Castagniccia, i. <a href="i.html#pg110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Castagno, Andrea del, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Castellammare, i. <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_; iii.
+<a href="#pg232">232</a>, <a href="#pg250">250</a>, <a href=
+"#pg276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Casti, Abb&eacute;, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Castiglione, i. <a href="i.html#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg145">145</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg068">68</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg080">80</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg082">82</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg106">106</a>, <a href="#pg108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Castro Giovanni, mountains of, iii. <a href="#pg279">279</a>,
+<a href="#pg302">302</a>, <a href="#pg304">304</a>, <a href=
+"#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Catania, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_; iii. <a
+href="#pg279">279</a>, <a href="#pg280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#pg288">288</a>, <a href="#pg302">302</a>, <a href=
+"#pg304">304</a>, <a href="#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Catherine, S. (of Alexandria), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href="i.html#pg142">142</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg153">153</a>, <a href="i.html#pg155">155</a>-157, <a
+href="i.html#pg178">178</a>; iii. <a href="#pg055">55</a>, <a
+href="#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Catherine, S. (of Sienna), i. <a href="i.html#pg070">70</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg048">48</a>-65</li>
+
+<li>Catria, iii. <a href="#pg073">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Catullus, iii. <a href="#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavalcanti, Guido, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg308">308</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg325">325</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavicciuoli, Messer Guerra, iii. <a href="#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Cavro, i. <a href="i.html#pg109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>C&eacute;cile (Passe Rose), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Cefal&uacute;, iii. <a href="#pg291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Cellant, Contessa di, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg157">157</a>-159</li>
+
+<li>Cellant, Count of, i. <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Cellini, Benvenuto, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg189">189</a>, <a href="i.html#pg240">240</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg241">241</a>, <a href="i.html#pg328">328</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg025">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Celsano, i. <a href="i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Celsus, iii. <a href="#pg211">211</a>, <a href=
+"#pg219">219</a>, <a href="#pg220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Cenci, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg017">17</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg089">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Cenci, Beatrice, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Ceno, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg183">183</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Centorbi, iii. <a href="#pg302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Cephalonia, iii. <a href="#pg363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Cephissus, the, iii. <a href="#pg350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Cerami, iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Cervantes, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Cesena, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Cetona, iii. <a href="#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Chalcedon, iii. <a href="#pg212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Ch&acirc;lons, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Chapman, George, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles IV., iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles V., i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg188">188</a>, <a href="i.html#pg319">319</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg338">338</a>, <a href="i.html#pg339">339</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg202">202</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles VIII., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg067">67</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg132">132</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg183">183</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg189">189</a> and _note_, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg191">191</a>-197, <a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles of Anjou, iii. <a href=
+"#pg315">315</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Charles the Bold, i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles Martel, i. <a href="i.html#pg075">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles of Valois, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Chartres, i. <a href="i.html#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Chateaubriand, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg013">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Chatterton, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Chaucer, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg258">258</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg260">260</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiana, the, iii. <a href="#pg091">91</a>; valley of, iii. <a
+href="#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg097">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Chianti, iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiara, S., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg036">36</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg037">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiarelli, the, of Fabriano, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiavari, iii. <a href="#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiavenna, i. <a href="i.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg180">180</a>, <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg130">130</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Chioggia, i. <a href="i.html#pg257">257</a>-261</li>
+
+<li>Chiozzia, i. <a href="i.html#pg350">350</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Chiusi, i. <a href="i.html#pg086">86</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg051">51</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg052">52</a>; iii. <a href="#pg022">22</a>, <a
+href="#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg092">92</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Lake of, iii. <a href="#pg091">91</a>, <a href="#pg094">94</a>,
+<a href="#pg101">101</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Chiusure, iii. <a href="#pg077">77</a>, <a href=
+"#pg078">78</a>, <a href="#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Chivasso, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Christiern of Denmark, i. <a href="i.html#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Chur, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Cicero, iii. <a href="#pg321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Ciclopidi rocks, iii. <a href="#pg284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Cima, i. <a href="i.html#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Cimabue, iii. <a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"#pg144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Ciminian Hills, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg088">88</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg022">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Cini family. (_See_ Ambrogini)</li>
+
+<li>Cinthio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg272">272</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Ciompi, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg208">208</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Cisa, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Citt&agrave; della Pieve, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg051">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Citt&agrave; di Castello, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Ciuffagni, Bernardo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Clair, S., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg037">37</a> and _note_</li>
+
+<li>Clairvaux, Abbot of, iii. <a href="#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Claudian, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg343">343</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Clemens Alexandrinus, iii. <a href="#pg204">204</a>, <a href=
+"#pg217">217</a>, <a href="#pg219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Clement VI., iii. <a href="#pg074">74</a>, <a href=
+"#pg132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Clement VII., i. <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg316">316</a>, <a href="i.html#pg317">317</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg321">321</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg247">247</a>
+foll.; iii. <a href="#pg138">138</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Climmnus, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg039">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Cloanthus, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Clough, the poet, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Clusium, iii. <a href="#pg093">93</a>, <a href=
+"#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Coire, i. <a href="i.html#pg183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Col de Checruit, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Coleridge, S.T., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Colico, i. <a href="i.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Collalto, Count Salici da, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Colleoni family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Colleoni, Bartolommeo, i. <a href="i.html#pg192">192</a>-208;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Colleoni, Medea, i. <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Collona family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Colma, the, i. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Colombini, iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Colonna, Francesco, iii. <a href="#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Colonna, Giovanni, iii. <a href="#pg125">125</a>, <a href=
+"#pg254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Colonus, the, iii. <a href="#pg350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Columbus, i. <a href="i.html#pg097">97</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Commodus, i. <a href="i.html#pg135">135</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Comnena, Anna, iii. <a href="#pg297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Como, i. <a href="i.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg174">174</a>-189</li>
+
+<li>Como, Lake of, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href="i.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg173">173</a>, <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg179">179</a>, <a href="i.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg183">183</a>-186</li>
+
+<li>Conrad (of Canossa), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Conrad, King of Italy, iii. <a href="#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Conradin, iii. <a href="#pg298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Constance, daughter of King Roger of Sicily, iii. <a href=
+"#pg297">297</a>, <a href="#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Constance of Aragon, wife of Frederick II., iii. <a href=
+"#pg307">307</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Constantinople, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg186">186</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Contado, iii. <a href="#pg090">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Copton, iii. <a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Corfu, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_, <a href=
+"i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Corgna, Bernardo da, iii. <a href="#pg125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Corinth, iii. <a href="#pg212">212</a>, <a href=
+"#pg322">322</a>, <a href="#pg342">342</a>, <a href=
+"#pg362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Cormayeur, valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg009">9</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg014">14</a>-16</li>
+
+<li>Correggio, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg140">140</a>, <a href="i.html#pg163">163</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg126">126</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg147">147</a>-162</li>
+
+<li>Corsica, i. <a href="i.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg102">102</a>-120; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Corte, i. <a href="i.html#pg110">110</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Corte Savella, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Cortina, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Cortona, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a>-51, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg214">214</a>; iii. <a href="#pg090">90</a>, <a href=
+"#pg092">92</a>, <a href="#pg151">151</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Cortusi, the, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Corviolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Coryat, Tom, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Costa (of Venice), Antonio, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Costa (of Rome), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg033">33</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Courthezon, i. <a href="i.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Covo, i. <a href="i.html#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Cramont, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Credi, Lorenzo di, iii. <a href="#pg035">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Crema, i. <a href="i.html#pg194">194</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg209">209</a>-222</li>
+
+<li>Cremona, i. <a href="i.html#pg209">209</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg213">213</a>, <a href="i.html#pg215">215</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Crimisus, the, iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a>, <a href=
+"#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Crotona, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Crowne, the dramatist, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Cuma, iii. <a href="#pg212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Curtius, Lancinus, i. <a href="i.html#pg159">159</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Cyane, the, iii. <a href="#pg328">328</a></li>
+
+<li>Cybo, Franceschetto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Dalc&ograve;, Antonio, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Dandolo, Gherardo, i. <a href="i.html#pg198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Dandolo, Matteo, iii. <a href="#pg133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Daniel, Samuel (the poet), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Dante, i. <a href="i.html#pg029">29</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg080">80</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg005">5</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg006">6</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg013">13</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg023">23</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg065">65</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg137">137</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg206">206</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg207">207</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg277">277</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a>; iii. <a href="#pg002">2</a>, <a
+href="#pg019">19</a>, <a href="#pg025">25</a>, <a href=
+"#pg036">36</a>, <a href="#pg043">43</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg067">67</a>, <a href="#pg069">69</a>, <a href="#pg073">73</a>,
+<a href="#pg111">111</a>, <a href="#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"#pg149">149</a>, <a href="#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"#pg241">241</a>, <a href="#pg317">317</a></li>
+
+<li>D'Arcello, Filippo, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Davenant, Sir William, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>David, Jacques Louis, i. <a href="i.html#pg071">71</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Davos, i. <a href="i.html#pg020">20</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg028">28</a>-47, <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href="i.html#pg058">58</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg065">65</a>, <a href="i.html#pg183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>Davos D&ouml;rfli, i. <a href="i.html#pg053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>De Comines, Philippe, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg190">190</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>-197; iii. <a href="#pg045">45</a>
+_note_, <a href="#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>De Gi&eacute;, Mar&eacute;chal, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>De Musset, iii. <a href="#pg163">163</a>, <a href=
+"#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>De Quincey, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg113">113</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg273">273</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>De Rosset, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Dekker, Thomas, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Del Corvo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Della Casa, Giovanni, i. <a href="i.html#pg331">331</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg333">333</a></li>
+
+<li>Della Porta, i. <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a></li>
+
+<li>Della Quercia, i. <a href="i.html#pg192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Della Rocca, Giudice, i. <a href="i.html#pg112">112</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Della Rovere family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a> (_see
+also_ Rovere)</li>
+
+<li>Della Seta, Galeazzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Demetrius, iii. <a href="#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Demosthenes, iii. <a href="#pg323">323</a>, <a href=
+"#pg324">324</a>, <a href="#pg326">326</a>, <a href=
+"#pg327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Desenzano, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Dickens, Charles, iii. <a href="#pg039">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Dionysius, iii. <a href="#pg322">322</a>, <a href=
+"#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Dischma-Thal, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Dolce Acqua, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Dolcebono, Gian Giacomo, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>Domenico da Leccio, Fra, iii. <a href="#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Dominic, S., i. <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Donatello, i. <a href="i.html#pg150">150</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg178">178</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg029">29</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg030">30</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a>, <a href="#pg097">97</a>, <a href=
+"#pg100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Doni, Adone, iii. <a href="#pg114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Dor&eacute;, Gustave, i. <a href="i.html#pg264">264</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Doria, Pietro, i. <a href="i.html#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Doria, Stephen, i. <a href="i.html#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Dorias, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg097">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Dossi, Dosso, i. <a href="i.html#pg166">166</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href="i.html#pg172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Drayton, Michael, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Druids, the, iii. <a href="#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Drummond, William (the poet), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Dryden, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg006">6</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg007">7</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Duccio, iii. <a href="#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"#pg145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>D&uuml;rer, Albert, i. <a href="i.html#pg345">345</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg275">275</a>; iii. <a href="#pg260">260</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Eckermann, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg157">157</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Edolo, i. <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Edrisi, iii. <a href="#pg308">308</a>, <a href=
+"#pg309">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Egypt, iii. <a href="#pg189">189</a>, <a href="#pg190">190</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg192">192</a>, <a href="i.html#pg210">210</a>
+foll.</li>
+
+<li>Eichens, Edward, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Eiger, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg012">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Electra, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>'Eliot, George,' ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Emilia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Emilia Pia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Empedocles, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg172">172</a>, <a href="#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"#pg174">174</a>, <a href="#pg181">181</a>, <a href=
+"#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Empoli, iii. <a href="#pg041">41</a>, <a href=
+"#pg087">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Engadine, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg055">55</a>, <a href="i.html#pg056">56</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href="i.html#pg183">183</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Enna, iii. <a href="#pg302">302</a>, <a href="#pg303">303</a>
+and _note_</li>
+
+<li>Ennius, iii. <a href="#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"#pg181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Enza, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>Enzio, King, iii. <a href="#pg298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Epicurus, iii. <a href="#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"#pg174">174</a>, <a href="#pg181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Eridanus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Eryx (Lerici), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Este, i. <a href="i.html#pg167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Este family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg166">166</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg068">68</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg251">251</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Este, Azzo d', iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Beatrice d', i. <a href="i.html#pg150">150</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cardinal d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ercole d', i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg236">236</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Guelfo d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg177">177</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Guinipera d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg017">17</a>;</li>
+
+<li>Lucrezia d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg077">77</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg083">83</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Niccolo d', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Estrelles, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Etna, iii. <a href="#pg093">93</a>, <a href="#pg103">103</a>,
+<a href="#pg198">198</a>, <a href="#pg279">279</a>-287, <a href=
+"#pg319">319</a>, <a href="#pg325">325</a>, <a href=
+"#pg327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Etruscans, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Euganeans, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg281">281</a>, <a href="i.html#pg282">282</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Eug&eacute;nie, Empress, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Eugenius IV., i. <a href="i.html#pg199">199</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg070">70</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Euhemerus, iii. <a href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Euripides, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg142">142</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg159">159</a> _note_, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg335">335</a>; iii. <a href="#pg089">89</a>, <a href=
+"#pg215">215</a>, <a href="#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Eusebius, iii. <a href="#pg197">197</a>, <a href=
+"#pg219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Everelina, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg166">166</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Fabretti, Raffaello, iii. <a href="#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Faenza, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Fairfax, Edward, translator of Tasso, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Fano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg059">59</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Fanum Fortun&aelig; (Fano), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Farnese, Alessandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg317">317</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Julia, i. <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Odoardo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg180">180</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Pier Luigi, iii. <a href="#pg133">133</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ranunzio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg180">180</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Vittoria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Farnesi family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg117">117</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg180">180</a>; iii. <a href="#pg336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Faro, the, iii. <a href="#pg301">301</a>, <a href=
+"#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Favara, iii. <a href="#pg309">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Federighi, Antonio, iii. <a href="#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Federigo of Urbino. (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Feltre, Vittorino da, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferdinand, Grand Duke of Tuscany, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferdinand of Aragon, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg189">189</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg192">192</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg234">234</a>; iii. <a href="#pg274">274</a>, <a href=
+"#pg276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Fermo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg090">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferrara, i. <a href="i.html#pg166">166</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg167">167</a>, <a href="i.html#pg171">171</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg067">67</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg068">68</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg169">169</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg221">221</a>; iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferrara, Duke of, i. <a href="i.html#pg206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferrari, Gaudenzio, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a>-139, <a
+href="i.html#pg141">141</a>, <a href="i.html#pg162">162</a>-164,
+<a href="i.html#pg177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferretti, Professor, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferrucci, Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg343">343</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Fesch, Cardinal, i. <a href="i.html#pg118">118</a></li>
+
+<li>Fiesole, i. <a href="i.html#pg086">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Filelfo, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg025">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Filibert of Savoy, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Filiberta, Princess of Savoy, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Filippo, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Filonardi, Cinzio, iii. <a href="#pg133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Fina, Santa, iii. <a href="#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Finiguerra, Maso, i. <a href="i.html#pg218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Finsteraarhorn, the, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Fiorenzuola, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Flaminian Way, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg055">55</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Flaxman, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Fletcher, the dramatist, i. <a href="i.html#pg358">358</a>;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Florence, i. <a href="i.html#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg316">316</a>, <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg319">319</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg005">5</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg145">145</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg198">198</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg201">201</a>-257, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg259">259</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg306">306</a>; iii. <a href="#pg007">7</a>, <a
+href="#pg010">10</a>, <a href="#pg021">21</a>, <a href=
+"#pg132">132</a>, <a href="#pg151">151</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg317">317</a> _note_, _et passim_</li>
+
+<li>Florence, Duke of, i. <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Fluela, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg029">29</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg037">37</a>, <a href="i.html#pg054">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Fluela Bernina Pass, the, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Fluela Hospice, i. <a href="i.html#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Foglia, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Foiano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Folcioni, Signor, i. <a href="i.html#pg217">217</a></li>
+
+<li>Folengo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Folgore da San Gemignano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg053">53</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg001">1</a>-20, <a href="#pg067">67</a>, <a href=
+"#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Foligno, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg037">37</a>-41, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Fondi, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Ford, John (the dramatist), ii, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Forio, iii. <a href="#pg236">236</a>, <a href=
+"#pg237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Fornovo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg132">132</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg180">180</a>-200</li>
+
+<li>Fortini, iii. <a href="#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Forulus (Furlo), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Forum Sempronii (Fossombrone), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Foscari, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Fosdinovo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg134">134</a>-137</li>
+
+<li>Fossato, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg052">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Fossombrone, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg058">58</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Fouquet, i. <a href="i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Francesco, Fra, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Francesco da Carrara, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Francesco Maria I. of Urbino. (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Francesco Maria II. of Urbino. (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Francia, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg033">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Francis I. of France, i. <a href="i.html#pg113">113</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg183">183</a>, <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Francis of Assisi, S., i. <a href="i.html#pg099">99</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg100">100</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg023">23</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg044">44</a>; iii. <a href="#pg057">57</a>, <a
+href="#pg058">58</a>, <a href="#pg061">61</a>, <a href=
+"#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Fran&ccedil;ois des Baux, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Frederick, Emperor, i. <a href="i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Frederick II., Emperor, iii. <a href="#pg297">297</a>, <a href=
+"#pg315">315</a> and _note_, <a href="#pg316">316</a>-318</li>
+
+<li>Frere, J.H., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Friedrichs, ----, iii. <a href="#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Frisingensis, Otto, iii. <a href="#pg007">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Friuli, i. <a href="i.html#pg351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Furka, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Furlo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Furlo Pass, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg058">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Fusina, i. <a href="i.html#pg281">281</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Gaeta, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Galatea, i. <a href="i.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Galileo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg027">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Galli Islands, iii. <a href="#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Gallio, Marchese Giacomo, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Gallo, Antonio di San, iii. <a href="#pg090">90</a>, <a href=
+"#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Gallo, Francesco da San, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Garda, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Lake of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Gardon, the, valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg075">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Garfagnana, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Garigliano, iii. <a href="#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Gaston de Foix, i. <a href="i.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg161">161</a>, <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg010">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Gattamelata (Erasmo da Narni), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg197">197</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Gellias, iii. <a href="#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Gelon, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a>, <a href=
+"#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Genoa, i. <a href="i.html#pg097">97</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg105">105</a>, <a href="i.html#pg113">113</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg259">259</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a>, <a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a href=
+"#pg317">317</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Gentile, Girolamo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>George of Antioch, iii. <a href="#pg307">307</a>, <a href=
+"#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>G&eacute;rard, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Gerardo da Camino, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Ghiacciuolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Ghibellines, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg054">54</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg202">202</a> foll.; iii. <a href="#pg017">17</a>,
+<a href="#pg043">43</a> _note_, <a href="#pg073">73</a>, <a href=
+"#pg110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Ghiberti, Lorenzo di Cino, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg030">30</a>; iii. <a href="#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Giannandrea, bravo of Verona, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Giardini, iii. <a href="#pg287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Giarre, iii. <a href="#pg279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Gibbon, Edward (cited), i. <a href="i.html#pg346">346</a></li>
+
+<li>Ginori, Caterina, i. <a href="i.html#pg323">323</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>Ginori, Lionardo, i. <a href="i.html#pg323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Giordani, i. <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Giorgione, i. <a href="i.html#pg345">345</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Giottino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Giotto, i. <a href="i.html#pg152">152</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg043">43</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg206">206</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href="#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"#pg248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Giovanni da Fogliani, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Giovenone, i. <a href="i.html#pg139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Giovio, i. <a href="i.html#pg322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Girgenti, iii. <a href="#pg266">266</a>, <a href=
+"#pg291">291</a>, <a href="#pg302">302</a>, <a href=
+"#pg304">304</a>, <a href="#pg320">320</a>, <a href=
+"#pg321">321</a>, <a href="#pg332">332</a>-338</li>
+
+<li>Giulio Romano, i. <a href="i.html#pg140">140</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Glastonbury, iii. <a href="#pg029">29</a>, <a href=
+"#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Gnoli, Professor, i. <a href="i.html#pg327">327</a> _note_;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a> _note_, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Godfrey, the Hunchback, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Godfrey, Duke of Lorraine, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Goethe, i. <a href="i.html#pg005">5</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg006">6</a>, <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg011">11</a>, <a href="i.html#pg131">131</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg164">164</a>, <a href="i.html#pg237">237</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg026">26</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg157">157</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg162">162</a>; iii. <a href="#pg172">172</a>, <a href=
+"#pg173">173</a>, <a href="#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Goldoni, i. <a href="i.html#pg259">259</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg345">345</a>-359</li>
+
+<li>Golo, the, valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Gonfalonier of Florence, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg206">206</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg209">209</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg243">243</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg245">245</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Gonzaga family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Gonzaga, Alessandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Elisabetta, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg073">73</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Grancesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg073">73</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg194">194</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg196">196</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg345">345</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg363">363</a> _note_:</li>
+
+<li>Giulia, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Leonora, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Gorbio, i. <a href="i.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Gozzoli, Benozzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg035">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Graub&uuml;nden, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Gravedona, i. <a href="i.html#pg181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Gray, the poet, i. <a href="i.html#pg003">3</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Greece, and the Greeks, i. <a href="i.html#pg101">101</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg102">102</a>, <a href="i.html#pg240">240</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg244">244</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg155">155</a> foll., <a href="#pg260">260</a>
+foll., <a href="#pg285">285</a>-287, <a href="#pg290">290</a>-292,
+<a href="#pg320">320</a> foll., <a href="#pg339">339</a>-364</li>
+
+<li>Greene, Robert, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg266">266</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Gregory VII., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg172">172</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg173">173</a>-176 (_see also_ Hildebrand)</li>
+
+<li>Gregory XI., iii. <a href="#pg051">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Gregory XIII., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg088">88</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg095">95</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg096">96</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg097">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Grenoble, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Grigioni, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Grindelwald, iii. <a href="#pg275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Grisons, Canton of the, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg183">183</a>, <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Grivola, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Grosseto, iii. <a href="#pg066">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Grote, the historian, iii. <a href="#pg323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Grumello, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Guarini, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Guazzi, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Gubbio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg052">52</a>-55, <a
+href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg085">85</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg089">89</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg097">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Guelfs, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg054">54</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg202">202</a> foll.;
+iii. <a href="#pg017">17</a>, <a href="#pg110">110</a>, <a href=
+"#pg112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Gu&eacute;rin, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg043">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Guicciardini, Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg319">319</a>;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg255">255</a></li>
+
+<li>Guiccioli, Countess, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg007">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Guidantonio, Count, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Guido, iii. <a href="#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Guidobaldo I. (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Guidobaldo II. (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Guillaume de Cabestan, i. <a href="i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Guiscard, Robert, iii. <a href="#pg262">262</a>, <a href=
+"#pg297">297</a>, <a href="#pg298">298</a>, <a href=
+"#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Gyas, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Gylippus, iii. <a href="#pg323">323</a>, <a href=
+"#pg324">324</a>, <a href="#pg326">326</a>, <a href=
+"#pg337">337</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Hadrian, iii. <a href="#pg164">164</a>, <a href=
+"#pg185">185</a>, <a href="#pg187">187</a>-205, <a href=
+"#pg208">208</a>, <a href="#pg210">210</a>, <a href=
+"#pg212">212</a>, <a href="#pg224">224</a>, <a href=
+"#pg225">225</a>, <a href="#pg226">226</a>, <a href=
+"#pg228">228</a>, <a href="#pg343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#pg345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Halycus, the, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Handel, iii. <a href="#pg040">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Harmodius, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg135">135</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg155">155</a></li>
+
+<li>Harrington, Sir John, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Harvey, Gabriel, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Hauteville, house of, iii. <a href="#pg252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#pg253">253</a>, <a href="#pg254">254</a>, <a href=
+"#pg290">290</a>, <a href="#pg294">294</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Hazlitt, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Hegesippus, iii. <a href="#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Helbig, iii. <a href="#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Heliogabalus, i. <a href="i.html#pg135">135</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry II. of France, i. <a href="i.html#pg316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry III., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry IV., King of Italy, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg173">173</a>-177;
+iii. <a href="#pg300">300</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Henry V., Emperor, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry VI. (of Sicily), iii. <a href="#pg297">297</a>, <a href=
+"#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Henry VII., Emperor, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a>, <a href=
+"#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Hermopolis, iii. <a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Herodotus, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Herrick, Robert, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg324">324</a></li>
+
+<li>Hesiod, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg338">338</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg172">172</a>, <a href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Hiero II., iii. <a href="#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Hildebrand, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg163">163</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg171">171</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg172">172</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg300">300</a> _note_ 2, <a href="#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Himera, the, iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Hispellum (Spello), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg038">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Hoby, Thomas, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Hoffnungsau, i. <a href="i.html#pg066">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Hohenstauffen, house of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg188">188</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg202">202</a>; iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a>,
+<a href="#pg297">297</a>, <a href="#pg315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Homer, i. <a href="i.html#pg084">84</a> _note_; iii. <a href=
+"#pg155">155</a>, <a href="#pg226">226</a>, <a href=
+"#pg286">286</a>, <a href="#pg287">287</a>, <a href=
+"#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Honorius, Emperor, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Horace, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Howell, James, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Hugh, Abbot of Clugny, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg175">175</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Hugo, Victor, iii. <a href="#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Hunt, Leigh, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg146">146</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Hymettus, iii. <a href="#pg351">351</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ibn-Ham&ucirc;d, iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Ictinus, iii. <a href="#pg267">267</a>, <a href=
+"#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Il Medeghino. (_See_ Medici, Gian Giacomo de')</li>
+
+<li>Ilaria del Caretto, iii. <a href="#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Ilario, Fra, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Ilissus, the, iii. <a href="#pg350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Imola, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Imperial, Prince, i. <a href="i.html#pg119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Inn river, the, i, <a href="i.html#pg054">54</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Innocent III., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Innocent VIII., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Innspr&uuml;ck, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Isabella of Aragon, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Isac, Antonio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Ischia, iii. <a href="#pg233">233</a>, <a href=
+"#pg234">234</a>, <a href="#pg236">236</a>, <a href=
+"#pg238">238</a>, <a href="#pg241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Isella, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Iseo, Lake, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Ithaca, iii. <a href="#pg364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Itri, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg319">319</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Jacobshorn, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>James 'III. of England,' ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Joachim, Abbot, iii. <a href="#pg141">141</a>, <a href=
+"#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Joan of Naples, i. <a href="i.html#pg081">81</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>John XXII., iii. <a href="#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>John XXIII., iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>John of Austria, Don, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg077">77</a></li>
+
+<li>Jonson, Ben, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Jourdain (the hangman of the Glaci&egrave;re), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Judith of Evreux, iii. <a href="#pg303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Julia, daughter of Claudius, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg036">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Julian, iii. <a href="#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Julier, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Julius II., i. <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg074">74</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg220">220</a>; iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Jungfrau, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg012">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Justin Martyr, iii. <a href="#pg197">197</a>, <a href=
+"#pg219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Justinian, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg012">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Juvara, Aloisio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Juvenal, iii. <a href="#pg181">181</a>, <a href=
+"#pg199">199</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Keats, the poet, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Kelbite dynasty, iii. <a href="#pg292">292</a>, <a href=
+"#pg301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Killigrew, the dramatist, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Klosters, i. <a href="i.html#pg030">30</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>La Cisa, the pass, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg132">132</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>La Madonna di Tirano, i. <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>La Magione, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>-48</li>
+
+<li>La Rosa, i. <a href="i.html#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>La Spezzia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg137">137</a>-139, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>La Staffa family, the, iii. <a href="#pg113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Lacca, iii. <a href="#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Lamb, Charles, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Lampridius, iii. <a href="#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Landona, iii. <a href="#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Lanini, i. <a href="i.html#pg139">139</a>-142, <a href=
+"i.html#pg162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Lanuvium, iii. <a href="#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Lars Porsena, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg052">52</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg093">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Laschi, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Le Prese, i. <a href="i.html#pg060">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Leake, Colonel, iii. <a href="#pg325">325</a></li>
+
+<li>Lecco, i. <a href="i.html#pg183">183</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Legnano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg198">198</a></li>
+
+<li>Lenz, i. <a href="i.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Leo IX., iii. <a href="#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Leo X., i. <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg088">88</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg246">246</a>; iii. <a href="#pg132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Leonardo. (_See_ Vinci, Leonardo da)</li>
+
+<li>Leoncina, Monna Ippolita, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Leopardi, Alessandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg207">207</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg326">326</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Lepanto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg077">77</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg093">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Lepidus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg027">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lerici, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg139">139</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg142">142</a>-145</li>
+
+<li>Les Baux, i. <a href="i.html#pg077">77</a>-81; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Leucadia, iii. <a href="#pg364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Levezow, Von, iii. <a href="#pg211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Leyva, Anton de, i. <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Lido, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg280">280</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg283">283</a>-286; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Liguria, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg097">97</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg178">178</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Lilyboeum, iii. <a href="#pg294">294</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Lioni, Leone, i. <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>L'Isle, i. <a href="i.html#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Livorno, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Livy, iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a>, <a href=
+"#pg171">171</a></li>
+
+<li>Lo Spagna, iii. <a href="#pg114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Lodi, i. <a href="i.html#pg216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Lomazzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Lombardy, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg121">121</a>, <a href="i.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg129">129</a>, <a href="i.html#pg133">133</a>-172, <a
+href="i.html#pg209">209</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg129">129</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg132">132</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg147">147</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg165">165</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Lorenzaccio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg041">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Lorenzetti, Ambrogio, iii. <a href="#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"#pg036">36</a>, <a href="#pg043">43</a>, <a href=
+"#pg044">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Lorenzo, Bernardo di, iii. <a href="#pg105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Loreto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg097">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Lothair, King of Italy, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis XI, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis of Anjou, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Lovere, i. <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Loyola, Ignatius, iii. <a href="#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucan (quoted), i. <a href="i.html#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucca, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg203">203</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg211">211</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg214">214</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg218">218</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg286">286</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg004">4</a>, <a href="#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucca, Pauline, i. <a href="i.html#pg224">224</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg226">226</a>, <a href="i.html#pg227">227</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg229">229</a>, <a href="i.html#pg233">233</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg234">234</a>, <a href="i.html#pg237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucera, iii. <a href="#pg315">315</a> and _note_</li>
+
+<li>Lucius III., iii. <a href="#pg312">312</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucretius, iii. <a href="#pg157">157</a>-183</li>
+
+<li>Lugano, i. <a href="i.html#pg125">125</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg128">128</a>, <a href="i.html#pg156">156</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Lugano, Lake, i. <a href="i.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg125">125</a>, <a href="i.html#pg169">169</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Luigi, Pier, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Luini, i. <a href="i.html#pg141">141</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg148">148</a>, <a href="i.html#pg153">153</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg154">154</a>, <a href="i.html#pg155">155</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg156">156</a>, <a href="i.html#pg157">157</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg162">162</a>, <a href="i.html#pg164">164</a>-166, <a
+href="i.html#pg177">177</a>, <a href="i.html#pg178">178</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Luna, Etruscan, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Luziano of Lauranna, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Lyly, John, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Lysimeleia, iii. <a href="#pg327">327</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Macedonia, iii. <a href="#pg323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Machiavelli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg041">41</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg117">117</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg219">219</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg220">220</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg225">225</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg250">250</a>; iii. <a href="#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Macugnaga, i. <a href="i.html#pg018">18</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg020">20</a>; iii. <a href="#pg282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Madrid, iii. <a href="#pg223">223</a></li>
+
+<li>Magenta, i. <a href="i.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Maggiore, Lake, i. <a href="i.html#pg124">124</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Magnanapoli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg095">95</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg096">96</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Magnani, Giuseppe, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Magra, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg133">133</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg134">134</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Maitani, Lorenzo, iii. <a href="#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Majano, Benedetto da, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Malamocco, i. <a href="i.html#pg257">257</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg280">280</a>, <a href="i.html#pg281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Malaspina family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg134">134</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Malaspina, Moroello, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Malaterra, Godfrey, iii. <a href="#pg298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Malatesta family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>-17, <a
+href="ii.html#pg062">62</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg071">71</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg278">278</a>; iii. <a href="#pg121">121</a></li>
+
+<li>Malatesta, Gian Galeazzo, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg016">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Malatesta, Giovanni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Malatesta, Sigismondo Pandolfo, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg135">135</a>, <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg203">203</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>-21, <a href="ii.html#pg072">72</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg007">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Malfi, Duchess of, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Malghera, i. <a href="i.html#pg339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Malipiero, Pasquale, i. <a href="i.html#pg200">200</a></li>
+
+<li>Maloja, i. <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg128">128</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg129">129</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>the Pass of, i. <a href="i.html#pg053">53</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Malpaga, i. <a href="i.html#pg205">205</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Manente, M. Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Manfred, King, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Manfredi, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a></li>
+
+<li>Manfredi, Astorre, i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Manfredi, Taddeo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Maniaces, iii. <a href="#pg299">299</a>, <a href=
+"#pg301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Mansueti, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Mantegna, i. <a href="i.html#pg176">176</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg100">100</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg197">197</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Mantinea, iii. <a href="#pg207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Mantua, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg068">68</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg074">74</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Mantua, Dukes of, i. <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Mantua, Marquis of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg194">194</a>-196,
+<a href="ii.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Marcellinus, Ammianus, iii. <a href="#pg197">197</a>, <a href=
+"#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Marcellus, iii. <a href="#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>March, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Marches of Ancona, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Marecchia, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Maremma, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg286">286</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg069">69</a>, <a href="#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Marenzio, iii. <a href="#pg037">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Margaret of Austria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Maria, Galeazzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Maria, Gian, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Maria Louisa, Duchess of Parma, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Marianazzo, robber chieftain, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg088">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Mariano family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Marignano, i. <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Marignano, Marquis of. (_See_ Medici, Gian Giacomo de')</li>
+
+<li>Mark, S., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Marlowe, Christopher, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg159">159</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg258">258</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg268">268</a> and _note_; iii. <a href=
+"#pg228">228</a></li>
+
+<li>Maroggia, i. <a href="i.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Marseilles, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Marston, the dramatist, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg113">113</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Martelli, Giovan Battista, i. <a href="i.html#pg334">334</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Martelli, Luca, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Martial, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>; iii. <a href=
+"i.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Martin V., iii. <a href="#pg095">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Martinengo, i. <a href="i.html#pg203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Martinengo family, i. <a href="i.html#pg204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Martini, Biagio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Masaccio, i. <a href="i.html#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Masolino da Panicale, i. <a href="i.html#pg144">144</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg145">145</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Mason (artist), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg032">32</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Massinger, Philip, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Matarazzo, iii. <a href="#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"#pg122">122</a>, <a href="#pg128">128</a>, <a href=
+"#pg130">130</a>, <a href="#pg134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Matilda, Countess, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg165">165</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a>-173, <a href="ii.html#pg179">179</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg300">300</a> _note_ 2</li>
+
+<li>Matteo of Ajello, iii. <a href="#pg308">308</a> _note_, <a
+href="#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Mauro, S., iii. <a href="#pg248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Mayenfeld, i. <a href="i.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Mazara, iii. <a href="#pg281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Mazzorbo, i. <a href="i.html#pg282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Medici family, i. <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg315">315</a>-344; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg117">117</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg187">187</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg208">208</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg209">209</a>
+foll., <a href="ii.html#pg245">245</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg247">247</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg278">278</a></li>
+
+<li>Medici, Alessandro de', i. <a href="i.html#pg315">315</a>-327,
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg248">248</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg251">251</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Battista de', i. <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Bernardo de', i. <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Bianca de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Casa de', i. <a href="i.html#pg317">317</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Catherine de', i. <a href="i.html#pg316">316</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg076">76</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Clarina de', i. <a href="i.html#pg182">182</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Claudia de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg077">77</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cosimo de', i. <a href="i.html#pg319">319</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg225">225</a> _note_, iii. <a href="#pg067">67</a>, <a
+href="#pg247">247</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cosimo (the younger) de', i. <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg330">330</a>, <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>,
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg257">257</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ferdinand de', (Cardinal), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg093">93</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Francesco di Raffaello de', i. <a href="i.html#pg321">321</a>,
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg093">93</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg104">104</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gabrio de', i. <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gian Giacomo de' (Il Medeghino), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg179">179</a>-188, iii. <a href="#pg067">67</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giovanni de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg215">215</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg216">216</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg244">244</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg245">245</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg246">246</a> (_see also_ Leo X.):</li>
+
+<li>Giovanni de' (general), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg249">249</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giuliano, son of Piero de', ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg232">232</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg318">318</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg334">334</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giuliano de' (Duke of Nemours), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg244">244</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg245">245</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg247">247</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giulio dei (_see_ Clement VII.):</li>
+
+<li>Ippolito de', i. <a href="i.html#pg316">316</a>-319, ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg248">248</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg251">251</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg255">255</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Isabella de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg093">93</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg104">104</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg105">105</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Lorenzino de', i. <a href="i.html#pg315">315</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg319">319</a>-335, <a href="i.html#pg338">338</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg341">341</a>-344, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Lorenzo de' (the Magnificent), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg067">67</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg187">187</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg216">216</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg218">218</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a> foll.,
+<a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg311">311</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg325">325</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg326">326</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg330">330</a>,
+iii. <a href="#pg101">101</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Lorenzo de' (Duke of Urbino) (_see_ Urbino):</li>
+
+<li>Maddalena de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Piero de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg192">192</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg226">226</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg227">227</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg328">328</a>, iii. <a href="#pg101">101</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Pietro de', iii. <a href="#pg247">247</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Salvestro de', ii. <a href="ii.html#pg208">208</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Mediterranean, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Melfi, iii. <a href="#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Melo of Bari, iii. <a href="#pg299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Meloria, the, iii. <a href="#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Menaggio, i. <a href="i.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Menander, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Mendelssohn, i. <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Mendrisio, i. <a href="i.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Menoetes, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Mentone, i. <a href="i.html#pg083">83</a>-93, <a href=
+"i.html#pg094">94</a>, <a href="i.html#pg098">98</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg102">102</a>, <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg106">106</a>; iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Menzoni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Mer de Glace, iii. <a href="#pg282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Meran, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Mercatello, Gentile, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Mesomedes, iii. 201</li>
+
+<li>Messina, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a>, <a href=
+"#pg292">292</a> and _note_, <a href="#pg301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Mestre, i. <a href="i.html#pg339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Metaurus, or Metauro, the, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg058">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Mevania (Bevagna), ii. <a href="ii.html#pg038">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Michelangelo. (_See_ Buonarroti, Michel Angelo)</li>
+
+<li>Michelhorn, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Michelozzi, Michelozzo, iii. <a href="#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Middleton, Thomas, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Mignucci, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Milan, i. <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg019">19</a>, <a href="i.html#pg020">20</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href="i.html#pg121">121</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg124">124</a>, <a href="i.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg152">152</a>-161, <a href="i.html#pg168">168</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg178">178</a>, <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg203">203</a>, <a href="i.html#pg212">212</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg213">213</a>, <a href="i.html#pg223">223</a>
+foll.; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg190">190</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg224">224</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg151">151</a> _note_, <a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a
+href="#pg348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Milan, Dukes of, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href="i.html#pg200">200</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Millet, iii. <a href="#pg077">77</a></li>
+
+<li>Milton, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg258">258</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg274">274</a>; iii. <a href="#pg025">25</a>, <a
+href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href="#pg037">37</a>, <a href=
+"#pg038">38</a>, <a href="#pg158">158</a>, <a href=
+"#pg169">169</a>, <a href="#pg342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Mino da Fiesole, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Mirandola, Duchy of, i. <a href="i.html#pg185">185</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Mirandola, the Counts of, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Mirandola, Pico della, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg021">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Mirano, i. <a href="i.html#pg294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Miseno, iii. <a href="#pg238">238</a>, <a href=
+"#pg239">239</a>, <a href="#pg242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Mnesicles, iii. <a href="#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Mnestheus, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Modena, i. <a href="i.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg172">172</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg169">169</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg221">221</a></li>
+
+<li>Molsa, Francesco Maria, i. <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a></li>
+
+<li>Monaco, i. <a href="i.html#pg092">92</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Mondello, iii. <a href="#pg294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Monreale, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg010">10</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg291">291</a>, <a href="#pg311">311</a>-314</li>
+
+<li>Mont Blanc, i. <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg126">126</a>, <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Cenis, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg174">174</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cervin, i. <a href="i.html#pg169">169</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ch&eacute;tif, i. <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Finsteraarhorn, i. <a href="i.html#pg169">169</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gen&ecirc;vre, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>:</li>
+
+<li>S. Michel, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg167">167</a>:</li>
+
+<li>de la Saxe, i. <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Solaro, iii. <a href="#pg230">230</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ventoux, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg022">22</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Montalcino, iii. <a href="#pg076">76</a>, <a href=
+"#pg079">79</a>, <a href="#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Montalembert, iii. <a href="#pg249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Montalto, Cardinal, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg095">95</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg098">98</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a>
+(_see also_ Sixtus V.)</li>
+
+<li>Montdragon, i. <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Monte Adamello, i. <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a>, ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Amiata, iii. <a href="#pg042">42</a>, <a href="#pg069">69</a>,
+<a href="#pg076">76</a>, <a href="#pg080">80</a>, <a href=
+"#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg091">91</a>, <a href="#pg093">93</a>,
+<a href="#pg103">103</a>, <a href="#pg104">104</a>, <a href=
+"#pg106">106</a>, <a href="#pg108">108</a>:</li>
+
+<li>d'Asdrubale, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Aureo, iii. <a href="#pg253">253</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Calvo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg055">55</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Carboniano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cassino, iii. <a href="#pg248">248</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Catini, iii. <a href="#pg004">4</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Catria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg068">68</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>, iii. <a
+href="#pg111">111</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cavallo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg094">94</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cetona, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg051">51</a>, iii. <a href=
+"#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Coppiolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Delle Celle, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>:</li>
+
+<li>di Disgrazia, i. <a href="i.html#pg064">64</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Epomeo, iii. <a href="#pg234">234</a>, <a href=
+"#pg236">236</a>, <a href="#pg237">237</a>-240, <a href=
+"#pg241">241</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Fallonica, iii. <a href="#pg103">103</a>, <a href=
+"#pg110">110</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Gargano, iii. <a href="#pg299">299</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Generoso, i. <a href="i.html#pg121">121</a>-132, <a href=
+"i.html#pg173">173</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Leone, i. <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Nerone, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Nuovo, iii. <a href="#pg242">242</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Oliveto, i. <a href="i.html#pg166">166</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg082">82</a>, iii. <a href="#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"#pg069">69</a>, <a href="#pg073">73</a>, <a href="#pg074">74</a>
+foll., <a href="#pg151">151</a> _note_:</li>
+
+<li>d'Oro, i. <a href="i.html#pg105">105</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg111">111</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Pellegrino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg176">176</a>, iii. <a
+href="#pg294">294</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Rosa, i. <a href="i.html#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg018">18</a>, <a href="i.html#pg105">105</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg125">125</a>, <a href="i.html#pg126">126</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg129">129</a>, <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg169">169</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Rosso, iii. <a href="#pg279">279</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Rotondo, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg033">33</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Salvadore, i. <a href="i.html#pg125">125</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg128">128</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Soracte, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg051">51</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Viso, i. <a href="i.html#pg126">126</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg134">134</a>, <a href="i.html#pg169">169</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg174">174</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Montefalco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>-37, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg039">39</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Montefeltro family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg062">62</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg069">69</a>-72</li>
+
+<li>Montefeltro, Federigo di, i. <a href="i.html#pg207">207</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg208">208</a></li>
+
+<li>Montefeltro, Giovanna, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Mont&eacute;limart, i. <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Montepulciano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg214">214</a>; iii. <a href="#pg068">68</a>, <a href=
+"#pg069">69</a>, <a href="#pg077">77</a>, <a href=
+"#pg087">87</a>-102, <a href="#pg109">109</a>, <a href=
+"#pg110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Montferrat, Boniface, Marquis of, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Monti della Sibilla, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Monza, i. <a href="i.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Moors, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg094">94</a>; iii. <a href="#pg296">296</a>, <a href=
+"#pg299">299</a>, <a href="#pg301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Morbegno, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg051">51</a>, <a href="i.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Morea, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg339">339</a></li>
+
+<li>Morris, William, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Morteratsch, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg056">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Mozart, i. <a href="i.html#pg223">223</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg227">227</a>, <a href="i.html#pg229">229</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg231">231</a>-237, <a href="i.html#pg249">249</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>M&uuml;hlen, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Mulhausen, i. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Murano, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg282">282</a>, <a href="i.html#pg333">333</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Murillo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg153">153</a></li>
+
+<li>M&uuml;rren, i. <a href="i.html#pg009">9</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg011">11</a>, <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Musset, De, i. <a href="i.html#pg342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Mussulmans, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a>, <a href=
+"#pg291">291</a>, <a href="#pg294">294</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg302">302</a>, <a href="#pg305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#pg307">307</a>, <a href="#pg316">316</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Naples, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg188">188</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg189">189</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg234">234</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg282">282</a>; iii. <a href="#pg221">221</a>, <a href=
+"#pg231">231</a>, <a href="#pg239">239</a>, <a href=
+"#pg243">243</a>, <a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a href=
+"#pg254">254</a>, <a href="#pg256">256</a>, <a href=
+"#pg270">270</a>, <a href="#pg276">276</a>, <a href=
+"#pg289">289</a>, <a href="#pg317">317</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Naples, Queens of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Napoleon Buonaparte, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg106">106</a>, <a href="i.html#pg118">118</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg119">119</a>, <a href="i.html#pg120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Narni, i. <a href="i.html#pg086">86</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg034">34</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg038">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Nash, Thomas, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Nassaus, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Navone, Signor Giulio, iii. <a href="#pg004">4</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Naxos, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Negro, Abbate de, iii. <a href="#pg078">78</a>, <a href=
+"#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Nera, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg037">37</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Nero, i. <a href="i.html#pg135">135</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg156">156</a>, <a href="#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Neroni, Diotisalvi, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Niccolini, i. <a href="i.html#pg342">342</a></li>
+
+<li>Niccolo da Bari, S., iii. <a href="#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Niccolo da Uzzano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg215">215</a></li>
+
+<li>Nice, i. <a href="i.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg106">106</a>; iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Nicholas II., iii. <a href="#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Nicholas V., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg028">28</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Nicholas the Pisan, iii. <a href="#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Nicolosi, iii. <a href="#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Nikias, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a>, <a href=
+"#pg324">324</a>, <a href="#pg326">326</a>, <a href=
+"#pg327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Nile, the, iii. <a href="#pg190">190</a>, <a href=
+"#pg201">201</a>, <a href="i.html#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Niolo, i. <a href="i.html#pg112">112</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Nisi, Messer Nichol&ograve; di, iii. <a href="#pg002">2</a>, <a
+href="#pg003">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Nismes, i. <a href="i.html#pg074">74</a>-77</li>
+
+<li>Noel, Mr. Roden, i. <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Norcia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg046">46</a>; iii. <a href="#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Normans (in Sicily), iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Novara, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg124">124</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Oberland valleys, i. <a href="i.html#pg012">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Oddantonio, Duke of Urbino, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Oddi family, the, iii. <a href="#pg113">113</a>, <a href=
+"#pg119">119</a>, <a href="#pg122">122</a>, <a href=
+"#pg134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Odoacer, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Offamilio, iii. <a href="#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Oglio, the, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Olgiati, i. <a href="i.html#pg341">341</a></li>
+
+<li>Oliverotto da Fermo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg048">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Ombrone, the, iii. <a href="#pg108">108</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Val d', iii. <a href="#pg090">90</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Oortman, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Orange, i. <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Orange, Prince of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg316">316</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Orcagna, iii. <a href="#pg036">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Orcia, the, iii. <a href="#pg104">104</a>, <a href=
+"#pg108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Ordelaffi, Cicco and Pino, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Origen, iii. <a href="#pg211">211</a>, <a href=
+"#pg219">219</a>, <a href="#pg220">220</a> Orlando, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg042">42</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg043">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Ornani, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Orpheus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg346">346</a>-364</li>
+
+<li>Orsini, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg091">91</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Orsini, Alfonsina, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Cardinal, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Clarice, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg227">227</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giustina, iii. <a href="#pg125">125</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Lodovico, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg099">99</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg100">100</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg101">101</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg104">104</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg105">105</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg108">108</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Paolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg048">48</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Paolo Giordano (_see_ Bracciano, Duke of):</li>
+
+<li>Troilo, i. <a href="i.html#pg327">327</a> _note_, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg093">93</a> and _note_:</li>
+
+<li>Virginio (_see_ Bracciano, second Duke of)</li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Orta, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Ortler, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg126">126</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Ortygia, iii. <a href="#pg321">321</a>, <a href=
+"#pg326">326</a>, <a href="#pg327">327</a></li>
+
+<li>Orvieto, i. <a href="i.html#pg086">86</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg051">51</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg136">136</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg362">362</a>; iii. <a href="#pg005">5</a>, <a
+href="#pg082">82</a>, <a href="#pg111">111</a>, <a href=
+"#pg137">137</a>-154</li>
+
+<li>Otho I., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Otho III., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Otranto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>'Ottimati,' the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg242">242</a> foll.,
+<a href="ii.html#pg251">251</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg254">254</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg255">255</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Overbeck, iii. <a href="#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Ovid, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg338">338</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg344">344</a>; iii. <a href="#pg149">149</a>, <a href=
+"#pg268">268</a>, <a href="#pg320">320</a>, <a href=
+"#pg341">341</a> _note_ 1</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Padua, i. <a href="i.html#pg152">152</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href="i.html#pg260">260</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg099">99</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg101">101</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg104">104</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg218">218</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg221">221</a>; iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>P&aelig;stum, iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a>, <a href=
+"#pg259">259</a>, <a href="#pg261">261</a>-269</li>
+
+<li>Paganello, Conte, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Paglia, the, iii. <a href="#pg137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Painter, William, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg117">117</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Palermo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg010">10</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg252">252</a>, <a href="#pg290">290</a>-318</li>
+
+<li>Palestrina, iii. <a href="#pg037">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Palladio, i. <a href="i.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg256">256</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Pallavicino, Matteo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Palma, i. <a href="i.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Palmaria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Palmer, Richard, Bishop of Syracuse, iii. <a href=
+"#pg306">306</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Pancrates, iii. <a href="#pg201">201</a>, <a href=
+"#pg204">204</a>, <a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Panizzi, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg043">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Panormus, iii. <a href="#pg291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Pantellaria, iii. <a href="#pg294">294</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Paoli, General, i. <a href="i.html#pg111">111</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Paris, i. <a href="i.html#pg020">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Parker, ----, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Parma, i. <a href="i.html#pg163">163</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg131">131</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg147">147</a>-162,
+<a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg180">180</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg184">184</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Parma, Duke of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Parmegiano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg158">158</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Parmenides, iii. <a href="#pg171">171</a>, <a href=
+"#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Passerini, Silvio (Cardinal of Cortona), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Passerini da Cortona, Cardinal, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Passignano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Pasta, Dr., i. <a href="i.html#pg123">123</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg124">124</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Patmore, Coventry, iii. <a href="#pg136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Patrizzi, Patrizio, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Paul III., i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg088">88</a>; iii. <a href="#pg120">120</a>, <a href=
+"#pg133">133</a></li>
+
+<li>Pausanias, iii. <a href="#pg207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Pavia, i. <a href="i.html#pg146">146</a>-151, <a href=
+"i.html#pg158">158</a>, <a href="i.html#pg176">176</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href="i.html#pg189">189</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg198">198</a>, <a href="i.html#pg212">212</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg351">351</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Pavia, Cardinal of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Pazzi, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg232">232</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg256">256</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Pazzi, Guglielmo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Peir&aelig;eus, iii. <a href="#pg357">357</a></li>
+
+<li>Pelestrina, i. <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>Pelusium, iii. <a href="#pg189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Pembroke, Countess of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>Penna, Jeronimo della, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Pentelicus, i. <a href="i.html#pg210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Pepin, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Peretti family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Peretti, Camilla, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Peretti, Francesco, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg092">92</a> foll., <a href=
+"ii.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Pericles, iii. <a href="#pg343">343</a>, <a href=
+"#pg350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Persephone, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a></li>
+
+<li>Persius, iii. <a href="#pg165">165</a>, <a href=
+"#pg172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Perugia, i. <a href="i.html#pg188">188</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg214">214</a>, <a href="i.html#pg350">350</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg052">52</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg163">163</a>; iii. <a href="#pg053">53</a>, <a
+href="#pg068">68</a>, <a href="#pg092">92</a>, <a href=
+"#pg111">111</a>-136</li>
+
+<li>Perugino, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg239">239</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg042">42</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg057">57</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg059">59</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg159">159</a>; iii. <a href="#pg114">114</a>, <a
+href="#pg116">116</a>, <a href="#pg117">117</a>-119, <a href=
+"#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Perusia Augusta, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Peruzzi, i. <a href="i.html#pg152">152</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Pesaro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg059">59</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg069">69</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Pescara, Marquis of, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Petrarch, i. <a href="i.html#pg072">72</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg073">73</a>, <a href="i.html#pg074">74</a> and _note_,
+<a href="i.html#pg086">86</a>, <a href="i.html#pg168">168</a>;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg022">22</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg261">261</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg280">280</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg303">303</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg332">332</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg344">344</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg365">365</a>-368; iii. <a href="#pg254">254</a>-256,
+<a href="#pg308">308</a>, <a href="#pg316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Petrucci, Pandolfo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Ph&aelig;drus, iii. <a href="#pg188">188</a>, <a href=
+"#pg351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Pheidias, i. <a href="i.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg246">246</a>; iii. <a href="#pg155">155</a>, <a href=
+"#pg346">346</a>, <a href="#pg349">349</a></li>
+
+<li>Philippus, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Philistis, Queen, iii. <a href="#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Philostratus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg293">293</a></li>
+
+<li>Phlegr&aelig;an plains, iii. <a href="#pg235">235</a>, <a href=
+"#pg239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Phoenicians, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a>, <a href=
+"#pg291">291</a>, <a href="#pg335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Piacenza, i. <a href="i.html#pg142">142</a>-144, <a href=
+"i.html#pg195">195</a>, <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg180">180</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>'Piagnoni,' the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg253">253</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Piccinino, Jacopo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Piccinino, Niccol&ograve;, i. <a href="i.html#pg207">207</a>;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Piccolomini family, iii. <a href="#pg107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Piccolomini, &AElig;neas Sylvius, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg023">23</a> (_see also_ Pius II.)</li>
+
+<li>Piccolomini, Ambrogio, iii. <a href="#pg072">72</a>, <a href=
+"#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Piedmont, i. <a href="i.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Pienza, iii. <a href="#pg077">77</a>, <a href="#pg092">92</a>,
+<a href="#pg102">102</a>, <a href="#pg104">104</a>-107</li>
+
+<li>Piero della Francesca, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg072">72</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg322">322</a></li>
+
+<li>Piero Delle Vigne, iii. <a href="#pg316">316</a></li>
+
+<li>Pietra Rubia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Pietra Santa, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Pietro di Cardona, Don, i. <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Pignatta, Captain, i. <a href="i.html#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Pindar, iii. <a href="#pg162">162</a>, <a href=
+"#pg215">215</a>, <a href="#pg289">289</a>, <a href=
+"#pg332">332</a></li>
+
+<li>Pinturicchio, Bernardo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg042">42</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg062">62</a>, <a href="#pg105">105</a>, <a href=
+"#pg114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Piranesi, i. <a href="i.html#pg077">77</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisa, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg203">203</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg211">211</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg214">214</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg244">244</a>; iii. <a href="#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"#pg253">253</a>, <a href="#pg304">304</a>, <a href=
+"#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisani, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg030">30</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisani, Vittore, i. <a href="i.html#pg259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisano, Andrea, iii. <a href="#pg144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisano, Giovanni, iii. <a href="#pg112">112</a>, <a href=
+"#pg144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisano, Niccola, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg144">144</a>, <a href="#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisciadella, i. <a href="i.html#pg060">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Pistoja, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg281">281</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg283">283</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg287">287</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitr&eacute;, Signor, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg281">281</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Pitta, Luca, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitz d'Aela, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitz Badin, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitz Languard, i. <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitz Palu, i. <a href="i.html#pg056">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Pius II., i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg018">18</a>; iii. <a href="#pg062">62</a>, <a href=
+"#pg104">104</a>, <a href="#pg105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Pius IV., i. <a href="i.html#pg182">182</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Pius IX., iii. <a href="#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Placidia, Galla, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Planta, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Plato, i. <a href="i.html#pg249">249</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg337">337</a>, <a href="#pg341">341</a>, <a href=
+"#pg351">351</a>, <a href="#pg352">352</a>, <a href=
+"#pg353">353</a></li>
+
+<li>Pletho, Gemisthus, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg019">19</a> and
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Plinies, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Plutarch, iii. <a href="#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Po, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg124">124</a>, <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Poggio. (_See_ Bracciolini, Poggio)</li>
+
+<li>Polenta, Francesca da, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Politian, iii. <a href="#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Poliziano, Angelo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg237">237</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg305">305</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg306">306</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg308">308</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg309">309</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg312">312</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg314">314</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg318">318</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg322">322</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg323">323</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg324">324</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg334">334</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg335">335</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg338">338</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg340">340</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg342">342</a>-344, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg345">345</a>-364; iii. <a href="#pg101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Polyphemus, i. <a href="i.html#pg091">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Pompeii, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a>, <a href=
+"#pg244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Pompey, iii. <a href="#pg189">189</a></li>
+
+<li>Pontano, iii. <a href="#pg242">242</a>, <a href=
+"#pg243">243</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Ponte, Da, i. <a href="i.html#pg227">227</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Pontremoli, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg133">133</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg183">183</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Pontresina, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Pope, Alexander, i. <a href="i.html#pg006">6</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg273">273</a>; iii. <a href="#pg172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Porcari, Stefano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Porcellio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Porlezza, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Portici, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Porto d' Anzio, iii. <a href="#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Porto Fino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Porto Venere, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg140">140</a>-142</li>
+
+<li>Portogallo, Cardinal di, iii. <a href="#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Portus Classis, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg008">8</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg011">11</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg012">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Poschiavo, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg060">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Poseidonia, iii. <a href="#pg261">261</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Posilippo, iii. <a href="#pg231">231</a>, <a href=
+"#pg270">270</a>, <a href="#pg309">309</a></li>
+
+<li>Poussin (cited), i. <a href="i.html#pg262">262</a></li>
+
+<li>Poveglia, i. <a href="i.html#pg257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>Pozzuoli, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a>, <a href=
+"#pg241">241</a>, <a href="#pg242">242</a>, <a href=
+"#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Prato, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg244">244</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Procida, iii. <a href="#pg238">238</a>, <a href=
+"#pg239">239</a>, <a href="#pg242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Promontogno, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Provence, i. <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a>-82</li>
+
+<li>Provence, Counts of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Psyttaleia, iii. <a href="#pg358">358</a></li>
+
+<li>Ptolemy, iii. <a href="#pg205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Puccini (Medicean) party, the, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Pulci, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Pythagoras, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg024">24</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Quattro Castelli, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg165">165</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg171">171</a></li>
+
+<li>Quirini, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg331">331</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Rabelais, iii. <a href="#pg161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Radicofani, iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a>, <a href=
+"#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg091">91</a>, <a href="#pg103">103</a>,
+<a href="#pg106">106</a>, <a href="#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Ragatz, i. <a href="i.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Raimond, Count of Provence, iii. <a href="#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Raimondi, Carlo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Rainulf, Count, iii. <a href="#pg299">299</a>, <a href=
+"#pg300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Raleigh, Sir Walter, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg264">264</a></li>
+
+<li>Rametta, iii. <a href="#pg302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Rapallo, iii. <a href="#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Raphael, i. <a href="i.html#pg138">138</a>-140, <a href=
+"i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a href="i.html#pg152">152</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg239">239</a>, <a href="i.html#pg266">266</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg027">27</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg037">37</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg082">82</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg085">85</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg126">126</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg147">147</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg152">152</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg159">159</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href="#pg114">114</a>, <a href=
+"#pg117">117</a>, <a href="#pg123">123</a>, <a href=
+"#pg129">129</a>, <a href="#pg141">141</a>, <a href=
+"#pg145">145</a>, <a href="#pg146">146</a>, <a href=
+"#pg227">227</a>, <a href="#pg228">228</a></li>
+
+<li>Ravello, iii. <a href="#pg259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Ravenna, i. <a href="i.html#pg160">160</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg001">1-13</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg244">244</a>; iii. <a href="#pg315">315</a></li>
+
+<li>Raymond, iii. <a href="#pg052">52</a>, <a href=
+"#pg053">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Recanati, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Redi, iii. <a href="#pg095">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Reggio d'Emilia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg165">165</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg167">167</a>-169, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg196">196</a>; iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Regno, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Rembrandt, i. <a href="i.html#pg345">345</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg156">156</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Ren&eacute; of Anjou, King, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Reni, Guido, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg086">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Rh&aelig;tia, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Rh&aelig;tikon, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Rhine, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Rhone, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg070">70</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg071">71</a>, <a href="i.html#pg076">76</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Riario, Girolamo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Ricci, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg213">213</a></li>
+
+<li>Ridolfi, Cardinal, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Ridolfi, Pietro, iii. <a href="#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Rienzi, i. <a href="i.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Rieti, valley of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Rimini, i. <a href="i.html#pg350">350</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg353">353</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>-31,
+<a href="ii.html#pg060">60</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Rimini, Francesca da, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Riviera, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg097">97</a>, <a href="i.html#pg104">104</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Riviera, mountains of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Robbia, Luca della, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Robustelli, Jacopo, i. <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Rocca d' Orcia, iii. <a href="#pg106">106</a>, <a href=
+"#pg108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Roccabruna, i. <a href="i.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg091">91</a>, <a href="i.html#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Rodari, Bernardino, i. <a href="i.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Rodari, Jacopo, i. <a href="i.html#pg175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Rodari, Tommaso, i. <a href="i.html#pg175">175</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Roger of Hauteville, iii. <a href="#pg295">295</a> and _note_,
+<a href="#pg296">296</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Roger (the younger) of Hauteville, King of Sicily, iii. <a
+href="#pg252">252</a>, <a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a href=
+"#pg293">293</a>, <a href="#pg305">305</a>, <a href=
+"#pg307">307</a>-311, <a href="#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Rogers, Samuel, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Roland, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg042">42</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg043">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Roma, Antonio da, i. <a href="i.html#pg328">328</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg329">329</a></li>
+
+<li>Romagna, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Romano, i. <a href="i.html#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Romano, Giulio, i. <a href="i.html#pg243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Rome, i. <a href="i.html#pg002">2</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href="i.html#pg068">68</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href="i.html#pg139">139</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg032">32</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg088">88</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg089">89</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg259">259</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg022">22</a> foll., <a href="#pg085">85</a>, <a
+href="#pg156">156</a>, <a href="#pg323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Ronco, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg010">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Rossellino, Bernardo, iii. <a href="#pg062">62</a>, <a href=
+"#pg105">105</a>, <a href="#pg106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg270">270</a>; iii. <a href="#pg001">1</a>, <a href=
+"#pg003">3</a>, <a href="#pg017">17</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Rousseau, i. <a href="i.html#pg005">5</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg006">6</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg027">27</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Rovere, Francesco della. (_See_ Sixtus IV.)</li>
+
+<li>Rovere, Francesco Maria (Duke of Urbino). (_See_ Urbino)</li>
+
+<li>Rovere, Giovanni della, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Rovere, Livia della, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg077">77</a></li>
+
+<li>Rovere, Vittoria della, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Rubens, i. <a href="i.html#pg345">345</a></li>
+
+<li>Rubicon, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Rucellai family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg028">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Rumano, i. <a href="i.html#pg204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Rusca, Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Ruskin, Mr., i. <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Rydberg, Victor, iii. <a href="#pg224">224</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg227">227</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Sabine Mountains, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg032">32</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg033">33</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg039">39</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg088">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Sacchetti, iii. <a href="#pg012">12</a>, <a href=
+"#pg013">13</a>, <a href="#pg016">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Saintr&egrave;, Jehan de, iii. <a href="#pg013">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Salamis, iii. <a href="#pg358">358</a>, <a href=
+"#pg362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Salerno, iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a>, <a href=
+"#pg262">262</a>, <a href="#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"#pg299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Salimbeni, house of, iii. <a href="#pg007">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Salimbeni, Niccol&ograve; de', iii. <a href="#pg003">3</a></li>
+
+<li>Salis, Von, family, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Salis, Von, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Sal&ograve;, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Salviati, Cardinal, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Salviati, Francesco (Archbishop of Pisa), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg232">232</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Salviati (Governor of Cortona), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Salviati, Madonna Lucrezia, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Salviati, Madonna Maria, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Samaden, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Samminiato, iii. <a href="#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Sampiero, i. <a href="i.html#pg112">112</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg113">113</a>-115</li>
+
+<li>Sanazzaro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg264">264</a> and _note_
+1</li>
+
+<li>S. Agnese, i. <a href="i.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>S. Erasmo, i. <a href="i.html#pg256">256</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>S. Gilles, i. <a href="i.html#pg081">81</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>S. Pietro, i. <a href="i.html#pg258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>S. Spirito, i. <a href="i.html#pg257">257</a></li>
+
+<li>San Gemignano, iii. <a href="#pg003">3</a>, <a href=
+"#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>San Germano, iii. <a href="#pg246">246</a>, <a href=
+"#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>San Giacomo, i. <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>San Lazzaro, i. <a href="i.html#pg280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>San Leo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>San Marino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg060">60</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg062">62</a>-64</li>
+
+<li>San Martino, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>San Michele, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>San Moritz, i. <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg058">58</a></li>
+
+<li>San Nicoletto, i. <a href="i.html#pg283">283</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>San Quirico, iii. <a href="#pg077">77</a>, <a href=
+"#pg092">92</a>, <a href="#pg102">102</a>, <a href=
+"#pg107">107</a>-110</li>
+
+<li>San Remo, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_, <a href=
+"i.html#pg093">93</a>-98, <a href="i.html#pg105">105</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>San Rocco, i. <a href="i.html#pg265">265</a></li>
+
+<li>San Romolo, i. <a href="i.html#pg098">98</a>-100, <a href=
+"i.html#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>San Terenzio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg143">143</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Sangarius, the, iii. <a href="#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Sanseverino, Roberto, i. <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Sansovino, i. <a href="i.html#pg337">337</a> _note_, ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg017">17</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Sant' Elisabetta, i. <a href="i.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Santa Agata, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg090">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Santa Lucia, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Santa Maura, iii. <a href="#pg363">363</a>.</li>
+
+<li>Santi, Giovanni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg056">56</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg059">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Sappho, iii. <a href="#pg363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Saracens, iii. <a href="#pg252">252</a>, <a href=
+"#pg263">263</a>, <a href="#pg294">294</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg302">302</a> foll., <a href="#pg308">308</a>, <a href=
+"#pg321">321</a></li>
+
+<li>Sardinia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg189">189</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Saronno, i. <a href="i.html#pg137">137</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg156">156</a>, <a href="i.html#pg161">161</a>-166</li>
+
+<li>Sarto, Andrea del, i. <a href="i.html#pg345">345</a>; iii.
+100</li>
+
+<li>Sarzana, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg131">131</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg134">134</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg143">143</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg183">183</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Sassella, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Sasso Rancio, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Savonarola, i. <a href="i.html#pg171">171</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg122">122</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg237">237</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg239">239</a>-242</li>
+
+<li>Scala, Can Grande della, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Scaletta, pass of the, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Scaligers, the, iii. <a href="#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Scalza, Ippolito, iii. <a href="#pg147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Scandiano, Count of. ii. <a href="ii.html#pg067">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Scheffer, Ary, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Scheggia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Schiahorn, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg054">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Schwartzhorn, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg054">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Schyn, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Sciacca, iii. <a href="#pg281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Scolastica, S., iii. <a href="#pg073">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Scott, Sir Walter, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Sebastian, S., iii. <a href="#pg184">184</a>, <a href=
+"#pg185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Seehorn, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg029">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Seelisberg, i. <a href="i.html#pg014">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Segeste, iii. <a href="#pg291">291</a>, <a href=
+"#pg319">319</a>, <a href="#pg335">335</a></li>
+
+<li>Selinus, iii. <a href="#pg291">291</a>, <a href=
+"#pg333">333</a>, <a href="#pg335">335</a>, <a href=
+"#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Serafino, Fra, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Serbelloni, Cecilia, i. <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Sergestus, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Serio, river, i. <a href="i.html#pg204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Sermini, iii. <a href="#pg068">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Sesia, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Sestri, i. <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_; iii. <a
+href="#pg250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Sforza family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg146">146</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg155">155</a>, <a href="i.html#pg179">179</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href="i.html#pg185">185</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg197">197</a>, <a href="i.html#pg244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Sforza, Alessandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg202">202</a>, ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg072">72</a>:
+
+<ul>
+<li>Battista, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg072">72</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Beatrice, i. <a href="i.html#pg176">176</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Cardinal Ascanio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg091">91</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg198">198</a>, <a href="i.html#pg200">200</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg203">203</a>, <a href="i.html#pg208">208</a>, ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg017">17</a>17 _note_, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg071">71</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg224">224</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Galeazzo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Galeazzo Maria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg230">230</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg236">236</a>, iii.
+<a href="#pg117">117</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Giovanni Galeazzo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg192">192</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Ippolita, i. <a href="i.html#pg155">155</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Lodovico, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a>, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg186">186</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg191">191</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg193">193</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg194">194</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg236">236</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg238">238</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Polissena, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg017">17</a>:</li>
+
+<li>Zenobia, iii. <a href="#pg124">124</a>, <a href=
+"#pg125">125</a>, <a href="#pg128">128</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Shakspere, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg258">258</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg268">268</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a>-274, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg277">277</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg335">335</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg036">36</a>, <a href="#pg037">37</a>, <a href=
+"#pg166">166</a>, <a href="#pg280">280</a>, <a href=
+"#pg282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Shelley, i. <a href="i.html#pg005">5</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href="i.html#pg025">25</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg026">26</a>, <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg166">166</a>, <a href="i.html#pg232">232</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg138">138</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg140">140</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg143">143</a>-145, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>; iii. <a href="#pg172">172</a>, <a
+href="#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Shirley, the dramatist, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Sicily, i. <a href="i.html#pg103">103</a> _note_; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg066">66</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg189">189</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg276">276</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg281">281</a>
+_note_, <a href="ii.html#pg282">282</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg252">252</a>, <a href="#pg279">279</a> foll., <a href=
+"#pg286">286</a>, <a href="#pg288">288</a>, <a href=
+"#pg290">290</a> foll., <a href="#pg319">319</a> foll.</li>
+
+<li>Sidney, Sir Philip, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg264">264</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg266">266</a></li>
+
+<li>Siena, i. <a href="i.html#pg166">166</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg187">187</a>, <a href="i.html#pg192">192</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg042">42</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg214">214</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg281">281</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg286">286</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg001">1</a>, <a href="#pg007">7</a>, <a href=
+"#pg010">10</a>, <a href="#pg012">12</a>, <a href=
+"#pg041">41</a>-65, <a href="#pg066">66</a> foll., <a href=
+"#pg092">92</a>, <a href="#pg105">105</a> _et passim_</li>
+
+<li>Sigifredo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Signorelli, i. <a href="i.html#pg239">239</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg362">362</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg035">35</a>, <a href="#pg081">81</a>, <a href=
+"#pg082">82</a>, <a href="#pg085">85</a>, <a href="#pg145">145</a>,
+<a href="#pg147">147</a>-152, <a href="#pg154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Silarus, the, iii. <a href="#pg264">264</a></li>
+
+<li>Silchester, i. <a href="i.html#pg214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Silvaplana, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg128">128</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Silvretta, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg031">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Silz Maria, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Simaetha, i. <a href="i.html#pg140">140</a></li>
+
+<li>Simeto, the, iii. <a href="#pg279">279</a>, <a href=
+"#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Simon Magus, iii. <a href="#pg216">216</a></li>
+
+<li>Simonetta, La Bella, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg318">318</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg322">322</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg335">335</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Simonides, iii. <a href="#pg167">167</a></li>
+
+<li>Simplon, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Sinigaglia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg131">131</a></li>
+
+<li>Sirmione, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Sixtus IV., i. <a href="i.html#pg221">221</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg232">232</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg234">234</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Sixtus V., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg090">90</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg095">95</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg098">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Smyrna, iii. <a href="#pg212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Sobieski, Clementina, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Socrates, iii. <a href="#pg155">155</a>, <a href=
+"#pg329">329</a>, <a href="#pg351">351</a>, <a href=
+"#pg352">352</a>, <a href="#pg353">353</a>, <a href=
+"#pg354">354</a></li>
+
+<li>Soderini, Alessandro, i. <a href="i.html#pg332">332</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg334">334</a>, <a href="i.html#pg335">335</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg338">338</a>, <a href="i.html#pg341">341</a></li>
+
+<li>Soderini, Maria, i. <a href="i.html#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Soderini, Niccolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Soderini, Paolo Antonio, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Soderini, Piero, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg243">243</a>-245</li>
+
+<li>Sodoma, i. <a href="i.html#pg141">141</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg152">152</a>, <a href="i.html#pg165">165</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg166">166</a>; iii. <a href="#pg063">63</a>, <a href=
+"#pg081">81</a>, <a href="#pg082">82</a>-84, <a href=
+"#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Sogliano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Solari, Andrea, i. <a href="i.html#pg148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>Solari, Cristoforo (Il Gobbo), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a href="i.html#pg176">176</a></li>
+
+<li>Solferino, i. <a href="i.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Solon, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg163">163</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg172">172</a>, <a href="#pg341">341</a></li>
+
+<li>Solza, i. <a href="i.html#pg194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Sondrio, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Sophocles, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg160">160</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg161">161</a>; iii. <a href="#pg215">215</a>, <a href=
+"#pg287">287</a>, <a href="#pg345">345</a> _notes_ 1 and 2, <a
+href="#pg350">350</a></li>
+
+<li>Sordello, i. <a href="i.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Sorgues river, i. <a href="i.html#pg072">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Sorrento, iii. <a href="#pg233">233</a>, <a href=
+"#pg250">250</a>, <a href="#pg276">276</a>-278</li>
+
+<li>Sozzo, Messer, iii. <a href="#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Sparta, iii. <a href="#pg323">323</a></li>
+
+<li>Spartian, iii. <a href="#pg192">192</a>, <a href=
+"#pg193">193</a>, <a href="#pg197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Spartivento, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a></li>
+
+<li>Spello, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg039">39</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>-43, <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Spenser, Edmund, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg258">258</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg264">264</a></li>
+
+<li>Spezzia, Bay of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg135">135</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Spl&uuml;gen, i. <a href="i.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Spl&uuml;gen, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href="i.html#pg064">64</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>valley of, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Spolentino, hills of, iii. <a href="#pg092">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Spoleto, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg111">111</a>, <a href="#pg120">120</a></li>
+
+<li>Sprecher von Bernegg, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a></li>
+
+<li>Stabi&aelig;, iii. <a href="#pg246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Staffa, Jeronimo della, iii. <a href="#pg125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Stelvio, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg009">9</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Stephen des Rotrous, Archbishop of Palermo, iii. <a href=
+"#pg306">306</a> _note_ 1</li>
+
+<li>Stimigliano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a></li>
+
+<li>Strabo, iii. <a href="#pg206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg075">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi, Filippo, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg321">321</a>, <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg344">344</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi (Governor of Cortona), ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi, Palla degli, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi, Pietro, i. <a href="i.html#pg332">332</a></li>
+
+<li>Strozzi, Ruberto, i. <a href="i.html#pg331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Suardi, Bartolommeo, i. <a href="i.html#pg154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Subasio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Suetonius, i. <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>-136; iii. <a
+href="#pg164">164</a>, <a href="#pg196">196</a>, <a href=
+"#pg199">199</a>, <a href="#pg272">272</a>, <a href=
+"#pg274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Sufenas, iii. <a href="#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Superga, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg133">133</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Surrey, Earl of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>-263, <a
+href="ii.html#pg271">271</a></li>
+
+<li>Susa, vale of, i. <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>S&uuml;ss, i. <a href="i.html#pg055">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Swinburne, Mr., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Switzerland, i. <a href="i.html#pg001">1</a>-67, <a href=
+"i.html#pg105">105</a>, <a href="i.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Sybaris, ancient Hellenic city of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg002">2</a> _note_; iii. <a href="#pg261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Syracuse, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_; iii. <a
+href="#pg262">262</a>, <a href="#pg279">279</a>, <a href=
+"#pg288">288</a>, <a href="#pg290">290</a>, <a href=
+"#pg291">291</a>, <a href="#pg294">294</a> _note_, <a href=
+"#pg304">304</a>, <a href="#pg320">320</a>-331</li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Tacitus, iii. <a href="#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Tadema, Alma, i. <a href="i.html#pg210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Tanagra, iii. <a href="#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Tancred de Hauteville, iii. <a href="#pg294">294</a>, <a href=
+"#pg295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Taormina, iii. <a href="#pg287">287</a>, <a href=
+"#pg288">288</a>, <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarentum, iii. <a href="#pg263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarentum, Prince of, i. <a href="i.html#pg079">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarlati, Guido, iii. <a href="#pg074">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Taro, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg132">132</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg183">183</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarsus, iii. <a href="#pg212">212</a></li>
+
+<li>Tasso, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg264">264</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg265">265</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg269">269</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg274">274</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg280">280</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg332">332</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg337">337</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a></li>
+
+<li>Tavignano, the, valley of, i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Tedaldo, Count of Reggio and Modena, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Tennyson, Lord, i. <a href="i.html#pg004">4</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg023">23</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg270">270</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg296">296</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Terlan, i. <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Terni, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Terracina, i. <a href="i.html#pg318">318</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Tertullian, iii. <a href="#pg219">219</a></li>
+
+<li>Theocritus, i. <a href="i.html#pg084">84</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg094">94</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg304">304</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg330">330</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg335">335</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg337">337</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg355">355</a>; iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Theodoric the Ostrogoth, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg011">11</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg013">13</a></li>
+
+<li>Theognis, iii. <a href="#pg172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Thomas &agrave; Kempis (quoted), i. <a href=
+"i.html#pg098">98</a>, <a href="i.html#pg100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Thomas of Sarzana, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg028">28</a></li>
+
+<li>Thrasymene, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg090">90</a>, <a href="#pg091">91</a>, <a href=
+"#pg101">101</a>, <a href="#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Thucydides, iii. <a href="#pg321">321</a>-324, <a href=
+"#pg327">327</a>, <a href="#pg328">328</a>, <a href=
+"#pg331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Thuillier, Prefect, i. <a href="i.html#pg109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiber, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg033">33</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg046">46</a>; iii. <a href="#pg112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiberio d'Assisi, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiberius, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg271">271</a>-274</li>
+
+<li>Ticino, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg124">124</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Tieck, R. iii. <a href=
+"#pg224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Timoleon, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a>, <a href=
+"#pg290">290</a>, <a href="#pg304">304</a>, <a href=
+"#pg319">319</a>, <a href="#pg337">337</a></li>
+
+<li>Tintoretto, i. <a href="i.html#pg138">138</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg236">236</a>, <a href="i.html#pg262">262</a>-267, <a
+href="i.html#pg269">269</a>, <a href="i.html#pg281">281</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg147">147</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg156">156</a>; iii. <a href="#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Tinzenhorn, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Tirano, i. <a href="i.html#pg049">49</a>-53, <a href=
+"i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href="i.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Titian, i. <a href="i.html#pg337">337</a> _note_; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg076">76</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg130">130</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg153">153</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg154">154</a>; iii. <a href="#pg180">180</a>,
+<a href="#pg247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Titus, iii. <a href="#pg190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Tivoli, i. <a href="i.html#pg087">87</a> _note_; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg032">32</a>; iii. <a href="#pg189">189</a>, <a href=
+"#pg198">198</a>, <a href="#pg201">201</a>, <a href=
+"#pg210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Todi, iii. <a href="#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Tofana, i. <a href="i.html#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Tolomei family, iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Tolomei, Cristoforo, iii. <a href="#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Tolomei, Fulvia, iii. <a href="#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Tolomei, Giovanni, iii. <a href="#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"#pg070">70</a> (_see also_ Bernardo)</li>
+
+<li>Tolomei, Nino, iii. <a href="#pg008">8</a>, <a href=
+"#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Tommaseo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Tommaso di Nello, iii. <a href="#pg011">11</a></li>
+
+<li>Torcello, i. <a href="i.html#pg171">171</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg172">172</a>, <a href="i.html#pg282">282</a>; ii. <a
+href="ii.html#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Torre dell' Annunziata, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Torre del Greco, iii. <a href="#pg232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Torrensi family, the, iii. <a href="#pg119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Toscanella, iii. <a href="#pg109">109</a></li>
+
+<li>Toschi, Paolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg148">148</a>-150</li>
+
+<li>Totila, iii. <a href="#pg081">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Tourneur, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Trajan, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg014">14</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Trani, iii. <a href="#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Trapani, iii. <a href="#pg319">319</a></li>
+
+<li>Trasimeno, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg050">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Trastevere, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg096">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Trebanio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg019">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Trelawny, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Tremazzi, Ambrogio, i. <a href="i.html#pg327">327</a>
+_note_</li>
+
+<li>Trento, i. <a href="i.html#pg340">340</a></li>
+
+<li>Trepievi, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Trescorio, i. <a href="i.html#pg204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Tresenda, i. <a href="i.html#pg063">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Trevi, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg039">39</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg046">46</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg097">97</a>; iii. <a href="#pg111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>Treviglio, i. <a href="i.html#pg209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Treviso, iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a></li>
+
+<li>Trezzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Trinacria, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a></li>
+
+<li>Trinci family, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg038">38</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg041">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Trinci, Corrado, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg040">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Troina, iii. <a href="#pg302">302</a>, <a href=
+"#pg303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Tuldo, Nicola, iii. <a href="#pg053">53</a>-55</li>
+
+<li>Tunis, iii. <a href="#pg275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Turin, i. <a href="i.html#pg134">134</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg138">138</a>, <a href="i.html#pg348">348</a></li>
+
+<li>Turner, J.M.W., iii. <a href="#pg138">138</a>, <a href=
+"#pg364">364</a></li>
+
+<li>Tuscany, i. <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg169">169</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg234">234</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg244">244</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg276">276</a> foll.; iii. <a href=
+"#pg041">41</a> foll., <a href="#pg068">68</a>, <a href=
+"#pg104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Tuscany, Grand Duke of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg099">99</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg170">170</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg256">256</a></li>
+
+<li>Tyrol, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg089">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Tyrrhenian sea, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg183">183</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ubaldo, S., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg054">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Uberti, Fazio degli, iii. <a href="#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"#pg016">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Udine, i. <a href="i.html#pg351">351</a></li>
+
+<li>Ugolini, Messer Baccio, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg362">362</a></li>
+
+<li>Uguccione della Faggiuola, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg136">136</a>; iii. <a href="#pg004">4</a></li>
+
+<li>Ulysses, iii. <a href="#pg288">288</a>, <a href=
+"#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Umbria, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg032">32</a>-59; iii. <a href="#pg068">68</a>, <a href=
+"#pg119">119</a> _note_ 1</li>
+
+<li>Urban II., iii. <a href="#pg304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Urban IV., ii. <a href="ii.html#pg177">177</a>; iii. <a href=
+"#pg141">141</a>, <a href="#pg142">142</a></li>
+
+<li>Urban V., i. <a href="i.html#pg070">70</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, i. <a href="i.html#pg203">203</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg045">45</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg058">58</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg066">66</a>-69, <a href="ii.html#pg074">74</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg078">78</a>-87, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Counts of, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg015">15</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Federigo, Duke of, i. <a href="i.html#pg203">203</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg207">207</a>, <a href="i.html#pg316">316</a>,
+<a href="i.html#pg317">317</a>, <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>;
+ii. <a href="ii.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg066">66</a>-68, <a href="ii.html#pg070">70</a>-73,
+<a href="ii.html#pg078">78</a>-81, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Prince Federigo-Ubaldo of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg077">77</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg078">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Francesco Maria della Rovere, Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a>-76, <a href="ii.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Francesco Maria II., Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg076">76</a>-78, <a href="ii.html#pg086">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Guidobaldo, Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg073">73</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg074">74</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg079">79</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg080">80</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg084">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Guidobaldo II., Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg076">76</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Urbino, Lorenzo de' Medici, Duke of, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg247">247</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Valdarno, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg218">218</a></li>
+
+<li>Valdelsa, iii. <a href="#pg069">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Valentinian, iii. <a href="#pg191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>Valentino, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg064">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Valperga, Ardizzino, i. <a href="i.html#pg158">158</a></li>
+
+<li>Valsassina, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Valtelline, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg035">35</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg048">48</a>-51, <a href="i.html#pg053">53</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg058">58</a>, <a href="i.html#pg061">61</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg064">64</a>, <a href="i.html#pg180">180</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg184">184</a>, <a href="i.html#pg186">186</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg188">188</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg168">168</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg094">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Valturio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg018">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Varallo, i. <a href="i.html#pg019">19</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg136">136</a>, <a href="i.html#pg138">138</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Varani, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Varano, Giulia, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Varano, Madonna Maria, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Varano, Venanzio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg085">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Varchi, i. <a href="i.html#pg320">320</a>-322, <a href=
+"i.html#pg325">325</a>, <a href="i.html#pg326">326</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg045">45</a> _note_</li>
+
+<li>Varenna, i. <a href="i.html#pg173">173</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Varese, i. <a href="i.html#pg144">144</a>;
+
+<ul>
+<li>Lake of, i. <a href="i.html#pg124">124</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg173">173</a>, <a href="i.html#pg174">174</a></li>
+</ul>
+</li>
+
+<li>Vasari, Giorgio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg026">26</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg028">28</a>; iii. <a href="#pg083">83</a>, <a href=
+"#pg084">84</a>, <a href="#pg145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Vasco de Gama, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Vasto, Marquis del, i. <a href="i.html#pg187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Vaucluse, i. <a href="i.html#pg072">72</a>-74</li>
+
+<li>Velino, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg034">34</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg046">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Venice, i. <a href="i.html#pg044">44</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg167">167</a>, <a href="i.html#pg171">171</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg200">200</a>, <a href="i.html#pg201">201</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg206">206</a>, <a href="i.html#pg254">254</a>-315; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg001">1</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg002">2</a>
+and _note_, <a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg042">42</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg102">102</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg253">253</a>, <a href="#pg309">309</a>, <a href=
+"#pg317">317</a> _note_, _et passim_</li>
+
+<li>Ventimiglia, i. <a href="i.html#pg102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Vercelli, i. <a href="i.html#pg136">136</a>-142; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg173">173</a>; iii. <a href="#pg082">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Vergerio, Pier Paolo, i. <a href="i.html#pg331">331</a></li>
+
+<li>Verne, M. Jules, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Vernet, Horace, i. <a href="i.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Verocchio, i. <a href="i.html#pg193">193</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg207">207</a></li>
+
+<li>Verona, i. <a href="i.html#pg212">212</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg168">168</a>; iii. <a href="#pg006">6</a>, <a href=
+"#pg318">318</a></li>
+
+<li>Verucchio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Vespasian, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Vespasiano, Florentine bookseller, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg080">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Vesuvius, iii. <a href="#pg230">230</a>, <a href=
+"#pg232">232</a>, <a href="#pg234">234</a>, <a href=
+"#pg235">235</a>, <a href="#pg239">239</a>, <a href=
+"#pg242">242</a>, <a href="#pg245">245</a>, <a href=
+"#pg276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Vettori, Paolo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Via Mala, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg057">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Viareggio, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg145">145</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Vicenza, i. <a href="i.html#pg075">75</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg328">328</a>-330</li>
+
+<li>Vico, i. <a href="i.html#pg109">109</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg112">112</a>, <a href="i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Vico Soprano, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg129">129</a></li>
+
+<li>Victor, Aurelius, iii. <a href="#pg193">193</a>, <a href=
+"#pg195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Vietri, iii. <a href="#pg250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Vignole, i. <a href="i.html#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Villa, i. <a href="i.html#pg048">48</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg062">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Villafranca, i. <a href="i.html#pg083">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Villani, Giovanni, iii. <a href="#pg008">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Villani, Matteo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg208">208</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg008">8</a>, <a href="#pg016">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Villeneuve, i. <a href="i.html#pg070">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Villon, iii. <a href="#pg001">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Vinci, Leonardo da, i. <a href="i.html#pg139">139</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg148">148</a>, <a href="i.html#pg154">154</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg349">349</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg019">19</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg021">21</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg027">27</a>,
+<a href="ii.html#pg050">50</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg152">152</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg156">156</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg082">82</a>, <a href="#pg228">228</a>, <a href=
+"#pg238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Vinta, M. Francesco, i. <a href="i.html#pg330">330</a></li>
+
+<li>Vire, Val de, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Virgil, i. <a href="i.html#pg246">246</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg006">6</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg063">63</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg285">285</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg304">304</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg338">338</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg343">343</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg075">75</a>, <a href="#pg144">144</a>, <a href=
+"#pg155">155</a>, <a href="#pg162">162</a>, <a href=
+"#pg172">172</a>, <a href="#pg180">180</a>, <a href=
+"#pg181">181</a>, <a href="#pg186">186</a>, <a href=
+"#pg215">215</a>, <a href="#pg268">268</a>, <a href=
+"#pg309">309</a>, <a href="#pg320">320</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti family, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg146">146</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg016">16</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg178">178</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg185">185</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg224">224</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg278">278</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg119">119</a>, <a href="#pg253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Astore, i, <a href="i.html#pg181">181</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Bianca Maria, i. <a href="i.html#pg199">199</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Ermes, i. <a href="i.html#pg157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Filippo Maria, i. <a href="i.html#pg195">195</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg197">197</a>-199; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg215">215</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg224">224</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Gian Galeazzo, i. <a href="i.html#pg149">149</a>, <a
+href="i.html#pg152">152</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg213">213</a></li>
+
+<li>Visconti, Gian Maria, ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>Vitelli, the, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg041">41</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg071">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Vitelli, Alessandro, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Vitelli, Giulia, iii. <a href="#pg132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Vitelli, Vitellozzo, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg047">47</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg048">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Vitellius, iii. <a href="#pg164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>Vittoli, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg114">114</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Vivarini, i. <a href="i.html#pg269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Voltaire, iii. <a href="#pg161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Volterra, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg163">163</a>, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg214">214</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg231">231</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg066">66</a>, <a href="#pg069">69</a>, <a href=
+"#pg079">79</a>, <a href="#pg092">92</a>, <a href=
+"#pg103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Volterra, Bebo da, i. <a href="i.html#pg328">328</a>-330, <a
+href="i.html#pg333">333</a>-341</li>
+
+<li>Volterrano, Andrea, i. <a href="i.html#pg336">336</a></li>
+
+<li>Volturno, iii. <a href="#pg239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Volumnii, the, iii. <a href="#pg112">112</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Walker, Frederick, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg129">129</a>; iii.
+<a href="#pg076">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Walter of Brienne. (_See_ Athens, Duke of)</li>
+
+<li>Walter of the Mill, Archbishop of Palermo, iii. <a href=
+"#pg306">306</a> _note_, <a href="#pg308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>Webster, the dramatist, i. <a href="i.html#pg220">220</a>; ii.
+<a href="ii.html#pg103">103</a>-126, <a href=
+"ii.html#pg267">267</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg271">271</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Weisshorn, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg054">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Whitman, Walt, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg024">24</a>; iii. <a
+href="#pg172">172</a></li>
+
+<li>Wien, i. <a href="i.html#pg045">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Wiesen, i. <a href="i.html#pg065">65</a>; ii. <a href=
+"ii.html#pg127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>William of Apulia, iii. <a href="#pg298">298</a>, <a href=
+"#pg299">299</a>, <a href="#pg305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>William the Bad and William the Good of Sicily, iii. <a href=
+"#pg305">305</a>, <a href="#pg306">306</a>, <a href=
+"#pg308">308</a>, <a href="#pg311">311</a></li>
+
+<li>Winckelman, iii. <a href="#pg188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Wolfgang, i. <a href="i.html#pg030">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Wolfswalk, the, i. <a href="i.html#pg031">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Wordsworth, i. <a href="i.html#pg005">5</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg006">6</a>, <a href="i.html#pg010">10</a>, <a href=
+"i.html#pg011">11</a>; ii. <a href="ii.html#pg262">262</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg263">263</a>, <a href="ii.html#pg273">273</a>;
+iii. <a href="#pg172">172</a>, <a href="#pg173">173</a></li>
+
+<li>Wyatt, Sir Thomas, ii. <a href="ii.html#pg261">261</a>, <a
+href="ii.html#pg262">262</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Xenophanes, iii. <a href="#pg171">171</a>, <a href=
+"#pg173">173</a>, <a href="#pg353">353</a></li>
+
+<li>Xiphilinus, iii. <a href="#pg192">192</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Zafferana, iii. <a href="#pg282">282</a>, <a href=
+"#pg283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Zante, iii. <a href="#pg363">363</a></li>
+
+<li>Zeno, Carlo, i. <a href="i.html#pg260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Zeus Olympius, iii. <a href="#pg290">290</a></li>
+
+<li>Zizers, i. <a href="i.html#pg065">65</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+</body>
+</html>
+