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+ } + + a.index:active { + color: #cc0099; + background: #ffffff; + font-weight: normal; + text-decoration: underline; + } + + + </style> + </head> + + <body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond, by Budgett Meakin + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond + +Author: Budgett Meakin + +Release Date: July 6, 2006 [EBook #18764] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIFE IN MOROCCO AND GLIMPSES *** + + + + +Produced by Michael Ciesielski, Lesley Halamek and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<br /><br /><br /> + + + + + + +<h2>LIFE IN MOROCCO</h2> + +<br /><br /><br /><br /> + +<h3 style="text-decoration: underline;">BY THE SAME AUTHOR</h3> +<p> +In uniform style. Demy 8vo, 15s. each.</p> +<p> +<span class="emph">THE MOORS</span>: an Account of People and Customs. +With 132 Illustrations.</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Contents</span>:—"The Madding Crowd"—Within the Gates—Where the Moors Live—How +the Moors Dress—Moorish Courtesy and Etiquette—What the Moors Eat and +Drink—Everyday Life—Slavery and Servitude—Country Life—Trade—Arts and Manufactures—Matters +Medical.</p> +<p> +Some Moorish Characteristics—The Mohammedan Year (Feasts and Fasts)—Places +of Worship—Alms, Hospitality, and Pilgrimage—Education—Saints and Superstitions—Marriage—Funeral +Rites.</p> +<p> +The Morocco Berbers—The Jews of Morocco—The Jewish Year.</p> + +<p> +<span class="emph">THE LAND OF THE MOORS</span>: A Comprehensive +Description. With a New Map and 83 Illustrations.</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Contents</span>:—Physical Features—Natural Resources—Vegetable Products—Animal +Life.</p> +<p> +Descriptions and Histories of Tangier, Tetuan, Laraiche, Salli-Rabat, Dar el Baida, +Mazagan, Saffi and Mogador; Azîla, Fedála, Mehedia, Mansûrîya, Azammûr and +Waladîya; Fez, Mequinez and Marrákesh; Zarhôn, Wazzán and Shesháwan; El Kasar, +Sifrû, Tadla, Damnát, Táza, Dibdû and Oojda; Ceuta, Velez, Alhucemas, Melilla and +the Zaffarines; Sûs, the Draa, Tafilált, Fîgîg, and Tûát.</p> +<p> +Reminiscences of Travel—In the Guise of a Moor—To Marrákesh on a Bicycle—In +Search of Miltsin.</p> + + +<p> +<span class="emph">THE MOORISH EMPIRE</span>: A Historical Epitome. +With Maps, 118 Illustrations, and a unique Chronological, Geographical, +and Genealogical Chart.</p> + +<p> +<span class="sc">Contents</span>:—Mauretania—The Mohammedan Invasion—Foundation of Empire—Consolidation +of Empire—Extension of Empire—Contraction of Empire—Stagnation of +Empire—Personification of Empire—The Reigning Shareefs—The Moorish Government—Present +Administration.</p> +<p> +Europeans in the Moorish Service—The Salli Rovers—Record of the Christian Slaves—Christian +Influences in Morocco—Foreign Relations—Moorish Diplomatic Usages—Foreign +Rights and Privileges—Commercial Intercourse—The Fate of the Empire.</p> +<p> +Works on Morocco reviewed (213 vols. in 11 languages)—The Place of Morocco in +Fiction—Journalism in Morocco—Works Recommended—Classical Authorities on Morocco.</p> + + +<h5><span class="sc">London: SWAN SONNENSCHEIN, Ltd.</span></h5> + + <br /><br /><hr /><br /><br /> +<p> +<span class="emph">AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARABIC OF</span> +<span class="emph1">MOROCCO</span>: <span class="sc">Vocabulary, Grammar Notes, Etc., in Roman +Characters.</span> Specially prepared for Visitors and Beginners on a new +and eminently practical system.</p> +<p> +Crown 8vo, Cloth, Round Corners for Pocket, <i>6s.</i></p> +<p> +Also, Uniform with this, in English or Spanish, Price <i>4s.</i></p> + +<h5><i>IN ARABIC CHARACTERS</i></h5> + +<h4>MOROCCO-ARABIC DIALOGUES,</h4> + +<h4>OR</h4> + +<h4>DIÁLOGOS EN ARABE MAROQUÍ.</h4> + +<h5>By <span class="sc">C.W. Baldwin.</span></h5> + + <br /><br /><hr /><br /><br /> + +<h5><span class="sc">London</span>: BERNARD QUARITCH, PICCADILLY.</h5> + +<h5><span class="sc">Tangier</span>: BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY'S DEPÔT.</h5> +<br /><br /><hr /><br /><a name="frontispiece"></a><br /> + +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/frontis.jpg"><img src="images/frontis-285.jpg" width="283" height="426" alt="A MOORISH THOROUGHFARE." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Edward Lee, Esq., Saffi.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A MOORISH THOROUGHFARE.</b> +</p><br /><br /><br /><br /> + + +<h1>LIFE IN MOROCCO</h1><br /><br /> +<h3>AND GLIMPSES BEYOND</h3> + +<h5>BY</h5><br /><br /> + +<h2>BUDGETT MEAKIN</h2><br /><br /> + +<h4>AUTHOR OF</h4><br /><br /> +<h5>"THE MOORS," "THE LAND OF THE MOORS," "THE MOORISH EMPIRE,"</h5> +<h5>"MODEL FACTORIES AND VILLAGES," ETC.</h5> +<hr class="short" /> + + + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/001-100.jpg" width="100" height="105" alt="glyph" border="0" /></div> + +<h4>WITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS</h4> + +<h4>LONDON</h4> +<h4>CHATTO & WINDUS</h4> +<h5>1905</h5> + + +<h5>PRINTED BY</h5> +<h5>WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,</h5> +<h5>LONDON AND BECCLES.</h5> + +<br /><hr /><br /> + +<a name="pagev" id="pagev"></a><span class="left">[page v]</span> + + +<h3>FOREWORD</h3> + +<p> +Which of us has yet forgotten that first day when +we set foot in Barbary? Those first impressions, +as the gorgeous East with all its countless sounds +and colours, forms and odours, burst upon us; +mingled pleasures and disgusts, all new, undreamed-of, +or our wildest dreams enhanced! Those yelling, +struggling crowds of boatmen, porters, donkey-boys; +guides, thieves, and busy-bodies; clad in +mingled finery and tatters; European, native, nondescript; +a weird, incongruous medley—such as is +always produced when East meets West—how they +did astonish and amuse us! How we laughed +(some trembling inwardly) and then, what letters +we wrote home!</p> +<p> +One-and-twenty years have passed since that experience +entranced the present writer, and although +he has repeated it as far as possible in practically +every other oriental country, each fresh visit to +Morocco brings back somewhat of the glamour of +that maiden plunge, and somewhat of that youthful +ardour, as the old associations are renewed. +Nothing he has seen elsewhere excels Morocco +in point of life and colour save Bokhára; and<a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a><span class="left">[page vi]</span> +only in certain parts of India or in China is it +rivalled. Algeria, Tunisia and Tripoli have lost +much of that charm under Turkish or western +rule; Egypt still more markedly so, while Palestine +is of a population altogether mixed and heterogeneous. +The bazaars of Damascus, even, and +Constantinople, have given way to plate-glass, and +nothing remains in the nearer East to rival Morocco.</p> +<p> +Notwithstanding the disturbed condition of much +of the country, nothing has occurred to interfere +with the pleasure certain to be afforded by a visit +to Morocco at any time, and all who can do so +are strongly recommended to include it in an early +holiday. The best months are from September to +May, though the heat on the coast is never too +great for an enjoyable trip. The simplest way of +accomplishing this is by one of Messrs. Forwood's +regular steamers from London, calling at most of +the Morocco ports and returning by the Canaries, +the tour occupying about a month, though it may +be broken and resumed at any point. Tangier +may be reached direct from Liverpool by the +Papayanni Line, or indirectly <i>viâ</i> Gibraltar, subsequent +movements being decided by weather and +local sailings. British consular officials, missionaries, +and merchants will be found at the various +ports, who always welcome considerate strangers.</p> +<p> +Comparatively few, even of the ever-increasing +number of visitors who year after year bring this +only remaining independent Barbary State within<a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a><span class="left">[page vii]</span> +the scope of their pilgrimage, are aware of the +interest with which it teems for the scientist, the +explorer, the historian, and students of human +nature in general. One needs to dive beneath +the surface, to live on the spot in touch with the +people, to fathom the real Morocco, and in this it +is doubtful whether any foreigners not connected by +ties of creed or marriage ever completely succeed. +What can be done short of this the writer attempted +to do, mingling with the people as one of themselves +whenever this was possible. Inspired by the +example of Lane in his description of the "Modern +Egyptians," he essayed to do as much for the +Moors, and during eighteen years he laboured to +that end.</p> +<p> +The present volume gathers together from many +quarters sketches drawn under those circumstances, +supplemented by a <i>resumé</i> of recent events and the +political outlook, together with three chapters—viii., +xi., and xiv.—contributed by his wife, whose +assistance throughout its preparation he has once +more to acknowledge with pleasure. To many +correspondents in Morocco he is also indebted for +much valuable up-to-date information on current +affairs, but as most for various reasons prefer to +remain unmentioned, it would be invidious to name +any. For most of the illustrations, too, he desires +to express his hearty thanks to the gentlemen who +have permitted him to reproduce their photographs.</p> +<p> +Much of the material used has already appeared<a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a><span class="left">[page viii]</span> +in more fugitive form in the <i>Times of Morocco</i>, the +<i>London Quarterly Review</i>, the <i>Forum</i>, the <i>Westminster +Review</i>, <i>Harper's Magazine</i>, the <i>Humanitarian</i>, +the <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i>, the <i>Independent</i> +(New York), the <i>Modern Church</i>, the <i>Jewish +Chronicle</i>, <i>Good Health</i>, the <i>Medical Missionary</i>, +the <i>Pall Mall Gazette</i>, the <i>Westminster Gazette</i>, +the <i>Outlook</i>, etc., while Chapters ix., xix., and xxv. +to xxix. have been extracted from a still unpublished +picture of Moorish country life, "Sons of +Ishmael."</p> + +<p class="author"> + B.M.</p> + +<p class="note"> +<span class="sc">Hampstead,</span><br /><br style="line-height: 30%;" /> +<span class="note1"><i>November 1905.</i></span></p> + + + + <hr class="short" /><br /><br /><br /> + + + +<a name="pageix" id="pageix"></a><span class="left">[page ix]</span> + + + + +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + + +<h4>PART I</h4> + +<table width="75%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents"> +<tr> + <td class="left" colspan="2" width="80%" valign="top"> CHAPTER<br /><br /></td> + <td class="right" colspan="2" valign="top">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">I.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page1">RETROSPECTIVE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">II.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page14">THE PRESENT DAY</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page14">14</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">III.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page36">BEHIND THE SCENES</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page36">36</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">IV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page47">THE BERBER RACE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page47">47</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top"> V.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page57">THE WANDERING ARAB</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page57">57</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">VI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page63">CITY LIFE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page63">63</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">VII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page71">THE WOMEN-FOLK </a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page71">71</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">VIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page82">SOCIAL VISITS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page82">82</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">IX.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page88">A COUNTRY WEDDING</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page88">88</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">X.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page94">THE BAIRNS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page94">94</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page102">"DINING OUT"</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page102">102</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page107">DOMESTIC ECONOMY</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page107">107</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page113">THE NATIVE "MERCHANT"</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page113">113</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XIV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page118">SHOPPING</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page118">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page125">A SUNDAY MARKET</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page125">125</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XVI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page133">PLAY-TIME</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page133">133</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XVII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page138">THE STORY-TELLER</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page138">138</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XVIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page151">SNAKE-CHARMING</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page151">151</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XIX.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page159">IN A MOORISH CAFÉ</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page159">159</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XX.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page166">THE MEDICINE-MAN</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page166">166</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page179">THE HUMAN MART</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page179">179</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page185">A SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page185">185</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page191">THE PILGRIM CAMP</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page191">191</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXIV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page201">RETURNING HOME</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page201">201</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h4>PART II</h4> + +<table width="75%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents"> + <tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page205">DIPLOMACY IN MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page205">205</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXVI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page233">PRISONERS AND CAPTIVES</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page233">233</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXVII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page242">THE PROTECTION SYSTEM</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page242">242</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXVIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page252">JUSTICE FOR THE JEW</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page252">252</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXIX.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page261">CIVIL WAR IN MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page261">261</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXX.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page267">THE POLITICAL SITUATION</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page267">267</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXXI.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page292">FRANCE IN MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page292">292</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h4>PART III</h4> + +<table width="75%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents"> + <tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXXII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page307">ALGERIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page307">307</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXXIII.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page318">TUNISIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page318">318</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXXIV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page326">TRIPOLI VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page326">326</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top">XXXV.</td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page332">FOOT-PRINTS OF THE MOORS IN SPAIN</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page332">332</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h4>APPENDIX</h4> + +<table width="75%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents"> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top"> </td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page381">"MOROCCO NEWS"</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page381">381</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left1" width="15%" valign="top"> </td> + <td class="left" width="65%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#page395">INDEX</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#page395">395</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<a name="pagexi" id="pagexi"></a><span class="left">[page xi]</span> + + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3> + +<table width="75%" align="center" border="0" summary="contents"> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"> </td> + <td class="right" valign="top">TO FACE PAGE<br /><br /></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#frontispiece">A MOORISH THOROUGHFARE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#gate">GATE OF THE SEVEN VIRGINS, SALLI</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#gate">2</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#river">CROSSING A MOROCCO RIVER</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#river">27</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#village">A BERBER VILLAGE IN THE ATLAS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#village">46</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#tent">AN ARAB TENT IN MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#tent">56</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#roofs">ROOFS OF TANGIER FROM THE BRITISH CONSULATE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#roofs">71</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#caravan">A MOORISH CARAVAN</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#caravan">91</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#fruit-sellers">FRUIT-SELLERS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#fruit-sellers">107</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#shopkeeper">A TUNISIAN SHOPKEEPER</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#shopkeeper">118</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#market">THE SUNDAY MARKET, TANGIER</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#market">128</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#performers">GROUP AROUND PERFORMERS, MARRÁKESH</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#performers">141</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#caravanserai">A MOROCCO FANDAK (CARAVANSARAI)</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#caravanserai">159</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#narrator">RABHAH, NARRATOR OF THE SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#narrator">185</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#steamer">WAITING FOR THE STEAMER</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#steamer">201</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#gateway">A CITY GATEWAY IN MOROCCO</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#gateway">211</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#homestead">CENTRAL MOROCCO HOMESTEAD</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#homestead">242</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#j-atlas">JEWESSES OF THE ATLAS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#j-atlas">256</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#kaid">A MOORISH KAÏD AND ATTENDANTS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#kaid">275</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#execution">TUNISIA UNDER THE FRENCH—AN EXECUTION</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#execution">299</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#tent2">TENT OF AN ALGERIAN SHEÏKH</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#tent2">313</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#tunisian">A TUNISIAN JEWESS IN STREET DRESS</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#tunisian">325</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#tripoli">OUTSIDE TRIPOLI</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#tripoli">330</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#cordova">A SHRINE IN CORDOVA MOSQUE</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#cordova">340</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="left" width="80%" valign="top"><a class="contents" href="#tetuan">THE MARKET-PLACE, TETUAN</a></td> + <td class="right" valign="top"><a href="#tetuan">375</a></td> +</tr> + +</table> + + +<br /><br /><hr /><br /><br /> +<p class="note1"> +<span class="sc">Note</span>.—<i>The system of transliterating Arabic adopted +by the Author in his previous works has here been +followed only so far as it is likely to be adopted by +others than specialists, all signs being omitted which +are not essential to approximate pronunciation.</i> +</p> +<br /><br /><hr /><br /><br /> + +<br /><br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page1" id="page1"></a><span class="left">[page 1]</span> + +<h1>LIFE IN MOROCCO</h1> +<br /><br /> + +<h2>PART I</h2> + +<h3>I</h3> + +<h2>RETROSPECTIVE</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"The firmament turns, and times are changing."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +By the western gate of the Mediterranean, where +the narrowed sea has so often tempted invaders, +the decrepit Moorish Empire has become itself a +bait for those who once feared it. Yet so far +Morocco remains untouched, save where a fringe +of Europeans on the coast purvey the luxuries from +other lands that Moorish tastes demand, and in +exchange take produce that would otherwise be +hardly worth the raising. Even here the foreign +influence is purely superficial, failing to affect the +lives of the people; while the towns in which +Europeans reside are so few in number that +whatever influence they do possess is limited in +area. Moreover, Morocco has never known foreign +dominion, not even that of the Turks, who have +left their impress on the neighbouring Algeria and +Tunisia. None but the Arabs have succeeded in +obtaining a foothold among its Berbers, and they, +restricted to the plains, have long become part of +<a name="page2" id="page2"></a><span class="left">[page 2]</span> +the nation. Thus Morocco, of all the North African +kingdoms, has always maintained its independence, +and in spite of changes all round, continues to live +its own picturesque life.</p> +<p> +Picturesque it certainly is, with its flowing +costumes and primitive homes, both of which vary +in style from district to district, but all of which +seem as though they must have been unchanged +for thousands of years. Without security for life +or property, the mountaineers go armed, they dwell +in fortresses or walled-in villages, and are at constant +war with one another. On the plains, except in the +vicinity of towns, the country people group their +huts around the fortress of their governor, within +which they can shelter themselves and their possessions +in time of war. No other permanent +erection is to be seen on the plains, unless it be +some wayside shrine which has outlived the ruin +fallen on the settlement to which it once belonged, +and is respected by the conquerors as holy ground. +Here and there gaunt ruins rise, vast crumbling +walls of concrete which have once been fortresses, +lending an air of desolation to the scene, but offering +no attraction to historian or antiquary. No +one even knows their names, and they contain no +monuments. If ever more solid remains are encountered, +they are invariably set down as the work +of the Romans.</p> +<br /><a name="gate" id="gate"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/002.jpg"><img src="images/002-276.jpg" width="276" height="430" alt="GATE OF THE SEVEN VIRGINS, SALLI." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>GATE OF THE SEVEN VIRGINS, SALLI.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + + + + +<p> +Yet Morocco has a history, an interesting history +indeed, one linked with ours in many curious ways, +as is recorded in scores of little-known volumes. +It has a literature amazingly voluminous, but there +were days when the relations with other lands were +much closer, if less cordial, the days of the crusades +and the Barbary pirates, the days of European<a name="page3" id="page3"></a><span class="left">[page 3]</span> +tribute to the Moors, and the days of Christian +slavery in Morocco. Constantly appearing brochures +in many tongues made Europe of those days +acquainted with the horrors of that dreadful land. +All these only served to augment the fear in which +its people were held, and to deter the victimized +nations from taking action which would speedily +have put an end to it all, by demonstrating the inherent +weakness of the Moorish Empire.</p> +<p> +But for those whose study is only the Moors as +they exist to-day, the story of Morocco stretches +back only a thousand years, as until then its scattered +tribes of Berber mountaineers had acknowledged no +head, and knew no common interests; they were not +a nation. War was their pastime; it is so now to +a great extent. Every man for himself, every tribe +for itself. Idolatry, of which abundant traces still +remain, had in places been tinged with the name +and some of the forms of Christianity, but to what +extent it is now impossible to discover. In the +Roman Church there still exist titular bishops of +North Africa, one, in particular, derives his title +from the district of Morocco of which Fez is now +the capital, Mauretania Tingitana.</p> +<p> +It was among these tribes that a pioneer mission +of Islám penetrated in the eighth of our centuries. +Arabs were then greater strangers in Barbary than +we are now, but they were by no means the first +strange faces seen there. Phœnicians, Romans +and Vandals had preceded them, but none had +stayed, none had succeeded in amalgamating with +the Berbers, among whom those individuals who did +remain were absorbed. These hardy clansmen,<a name="page4" id="page4"></a><span class="left">[page 4]</span> +exhibiting the characteristics of hill-folk the world +round, still inhabited the uplands and retained +their independence. In this they have indeed succeeded +to a great extent until the present day, but +between that time and this they have given of their +life-blood to build up by their side a less pure nation +of the plains, whose language as well as its creed is +that of Arabia.</p> +<p> +To imagine that Morocco was invaded by a +Muslim host who carried all before them is a great +mistake, although a common one. Mulai Idrees—"My +Lord Enoch" in English—a direct descendant +of Mohammed, was among the first of the +Arabian missionaries to arrive, with one or two +faithful adherents, exiles fleeing from the Khalîfa +of Mekka. So soon as he had induced one tribe +to accept his doctrines, he assisted them with his +advice and prestige in their combats with hereditary +enemies, to whom, however, the novel terms were +offered of fraternal union with the victors, if they +would accept the creed of which they had become +the champions. Thus a new element was introduced +into the Berber polity, the element of combination, +for the lack of which they had always +been weak before. Each additional ally meant an +augmentation of the strength of the new party +out of all proportion to the losses from occasional +defeats.</p> +<p> +In course of time the Mohammedan coalition +became so strong that it was in a position to dictate +terms and to impose governors upon the most +obstinate of its neighbours. The effect of this was +to divide the allies into two important sections, the +older of which founded Fez in the days of the son<a name="page5" id="page5"></a><span class="left">[page 5]</span> +of Idrees, accounted the second ameer of that +name, who there lies buried in the most important +mosque of the Empire, the very approaches of +which are closed to the Jew and the Nazarene. +The only spot which excels it in sanctity is that +at Zarhôn, a day's journey off, in which the first +Idrees lies buried. There the whole town is forbidden +to the foreigner, and an attempt made by +the writer to gain admittance in disguise was frustrated +by discovery at the very gate, though later +on he visited the shrine in Fez. The dynasty thus +formed, the Shurfà Idreeseeïn, is represented to-day +by the Shareef of Wazzán.</p> +<p> +In southern Morocco, with its capital at Aghmát, +on the Atlas slopes, was formed what later +grew to be the kingdom of Marrákesh, the city +of that name being founded in the middle of +the eleventh century. Towards the close of the +thirteenth, the kingdoms of Fez and Marrákesh +became united under one ruler, whose successor, +after numerous dynastic changes, is the Sultan of +Morocco now.<a name="I1r" id="I1r"></a><a href="#I1"><sup>*</sup></a></p> +<p> +But from the time that the united Berbers +had become a nation, to prevent them falling out +among themselves again it was necessary to find +some one else to fight, to occupy the martial instinct +nursed in fighting one another. So long as there +were ancient scores to be wiped out at home, so +long as under cover of a missionary zeal they could +continue intertribal feuds, things went well for the +victors; but as soon as excuses for this grew scarce, +it was needful to fare afield. The pretty story—told,<a name="page6" id="page6"></a><span class="left">[page 6]</span> +by the way, of other warriors as well—of the Arab +leader charging the Atlantic surf, and weeping that +the world should end there, and his conquests too, +may be but fiction, but it illustrates a fact. Had +Europe lain further off, the very causes which had +conspired to raise a central power in Morocco would +have sufficed to split it up again. This, however, +was not to be. In full view of the most northern +strip of Morocco, from Ceuta to Cape Spartel, the +north-west corner of Africa, stretches the coast of +sunny Spain. Between El K'sar es-Sagheer, +"The Little Castle," and Tarifa Point is only a +distance of nine or ten miles, and in that southern +atmosphere the glinting houses may be seen across +the straits.</p> +<p> +History has it that internal dissensions at the +Court of Spain led to the Moors being actually +invited over; but that inducement was hardly +needed. Here was a country of infidels yet to be +conquered; here was indeed a land of promise. +Soon the Berbers swarmed across, and in spite of +reverses, carried all before them. Spain was then +almost as much divided into petty states as their +land had been till the Arabs taught them better, +and little by little they made their way in a country +destined to be theirs for five hundred years. Córdova, +Sevílle, Granáda, each in turn became their +capital, and rivalled Fez across the sea.</p> +<p> +The successes they achieved attracted from the +East adventurers and merchants, while by wise administration +literature and science were encouraged, +till the Berber Empire of Spain and Morocco took a +foremost rank among the nations of the day. Judged +from the standpoint of their time, they seem to us a<a name="page7" id="page7"></a><span class="left">[page 7]</span> +prodigy; judged from our standpoint, they were but +little in advance of their descendants of the twentieth +century, who, after all, have by no means retrograded, +as they are supposed to have done, though +they certainly came to a standstill, and have suffered +all the evils of four centuries of torpor and stagnation. +Civilization wrought on them the effects that +it too often produces, and with refinement came +weakness. The sole remaining state of those which +the invaders, finding independent, conquered one by +one, is the little Pyrenean Republic of Andorra, still +enjoying privileges granted to it for its brave defence +against the Moors, which made it the high-water +mark of their dominion. As peace once more split +up the Berbers, the subjected Spaniards became +strong by union, till at length the death-knell of +Moorish rule in Europe sounded at the nuptials of +the famous Ferdinand and Isabella, linking Aragon +with proud Castile.</p> +<p> +Expelled from Spain, the Moor long cherished +plans for the recovery of what had been lost, preparing +fleets and armies for the purpose, but in vain. +Though nominally still united, his people lacked that +zeal in a common cause which had carried them +across the straits before, and by degrees the +attempts to recover a kingdom dwindled into continued +attacks upon shipping and coast towns. +Thus arose that piracy which was for several +centuries the scourge of Christendom. Further east +a distinct race of pirates flourished, including Turks +and Greeks and ruffians from every shore, but they +were not Moors, of whom the Salli rover was the +type. Many thousands of Europeans were carried +off by Moorish corsairs into slavery, including not<a name="page8" id="page8"></a><span class="left">[page 8]</span> +a few from England. Those who renounced their +own religion and nationality, accepting those of their +captors, became all but free, only being prevented +from leaving the country, and often rose to important +positions. Those who had the courage of +their convictions suffered much, being treated like +cattle, or worse, but they could be ransomed when +their price was forthcoming—a privilege abandoned +by the renegades—so that the principal object of +every European embassy in those days was the +redemption of captives. Now and then escapes +would be accomplished, but such strict watch was +kept when foreign merchantmen were in port, or +when foreign ambassadors came and went, that few +attempts succeeded, though many were made.</p> +<p> +Sympathies are stirred by pictures of the martyrdom +of Englishmen and Irishmen, Franciscan +missionaries to the Moors; and side by side with +them the foreign mercenaries in the native service, +Englishmen among them, who would fight in any +cause for pay and plunder, even though their +masters held their countrymen in thrall. And thrall +it was, as that of Israel in Egypt, when our sailors +were chained to galley seats beneath the lash of a +Moor, or when they toiled beneath a broiling sun +erecting the grim palace walls of concrete which still +stand as witnesses of those fell days. Bought and +sold in the market like cattle, Europeans were more +despised than Negroes, who at least acknowledged +Mohammed as their prophet, and accepted their lot +without attempt to escape.</p> +<p> +Dark days were those for the honour of Europe, +when the Moors inspired terror from the Balearics +to the Scilly Isles, and when their rovers swept the<a name="page9" id="page9"></a><span class="left">[page 9]</span> +seas with such effect that all the powers of Christendom +were fain to pay them tribute. Large sums of +money, too, collected at church doors and by the +sale of indulgences, were conveyed by the hands of +intrepid friars, noble men who risked all to relieve +those slaves who had maintained their faith, having +scorned to accept a measure of freedom as the +reward of apostasy. Thousands of English and +other European slaves were liberated through the +assistance of friendly letters from Royal hands, as +when the proud Queen Bess addressed Ahmad II., +surnamed "the Golden," as "Our Brother after the +Law of Crown and Sceptre," or when Queen Anne +exchanged compliments with the bloodthirsty Ismáïl, +who ventured to ask for the hand of a daughter of +Louis XIV.</p> +<p> +In the midst of it all, when that wonderful man, +with a household exceeding Solomon's, and several +hundred children, had reigned forty-three of his +fifty-five years, the English, in 1684, ceded to him +their possession of Tangier. For twenty-two years +the "Castle in the streights' mouth," as General +Monk had described it, had been the scene of as +disastrous an attempt at colonization as we have +ever known: misunderstanding of the circumstances +and mismanagement throughout; oppression, peculation +and terror within as well as without; a constant +warfare with incompetent or corrupt officials +within as with besieging Moors without; till at +last the place had to be abandoned in disgust, +and the expensive mole and fortifications were +destroyed lest others might seize what we could +not hold.</p> +<p> +Such events could only lower the prestige of +<a name="page10" id="page10"></a><span class="left">[page 10]</span> +Europeans, if, indeed, they possessed any, in the +eyes of the Moors, and the slaves up country received +worse treatment than before. Even the +ambassadors and consuls of friendly powers were +treated with indignities beyond belief. Some were +imprisoned on the flimsiest pretexts, all had to +appear before the monarch in the most abject +manner, and many were constrained to bribe the +favourite wives of the ameers to secure their +requests. It is still the custom for the state reception +to take place in an open courtyard, the +ambassador standing bareheaded before the mounted +Sultan under his Imperial parasol. As late as +1790 the brutal Sultan El Yazeed, who emulated +Ismáïl the Bloodthirsty, did not hesitate to declare +war on all Christendom except England, agreeing +to terms of peace on the basis of tribute. Cooperation +between the Powers was not then thought +of, and one by one they struck their bargains as +they are doing again to-day.</p> +<p> +Yet even at the most violent period of Moorish +misrule it is a remarkable fact that Europeans were +allowed to settle and trade in the Empire, in all +probability as little molested there as they would +have been had they remained at home, by varying +religious tests and changing governments. It is +almost impossible to conceive, without a perusal +of the literature of the period, the incongruity of +the position. Foreign slaves would be employed +in gangs outside the dwellings of free fellow-countrymen +with whom they were forbidden to +communicate, while every returning pirate captain +added to the number of the captives, sometimes +bringing friends and relatives of those who lived in<a name="page11" id="page11"></a><span class="left">[page 11]</span> +freedom as the Sultan's "guests," though he considered +himself "at war" with their Governments. +So little did the Moors understand the position of +things abroad, that at one time they made war upon +Gibraltar, while expressing the warmest friendship +for England, who then possessed it. This was done +by Mulai Abd Allah V., in 1756, because, he said, +the Governor had helped his rebel uncle at Arzîla, +so that the English, his so-called friends, did more +harm than his enemies—the Portuguese and +Spaniards. "My father and I believe," wrote his +son, Sidi Mohammed, to Admiral Pawkers, "that +the king your master has no knowledge of the +behaviour towards us of the Governor of Gibraltar, + ... so Gibraltar shall be excluded from the peace +to which I am willing to consent between England +and us, and with the aid of the Almighty God, I +will know how to avenge myself as I may on the +English of Gibraltar."</p> +<p> +Previously Spain and Portugal had held the +principal Moroccan seaports, the twin towns of +Rabat and Salli alone remaining always Moorish, +but these two in their turn set up a sort of independent +republic, nourished from the Berber tribes +in the mountains to the south of them. No Europeans +live in Salli yet, for here the old fanaticism +slumbers still. So long as a port remained in +foreign hands it was completely cut off from the +surrounding country, and played no part in Moorish +history, save as a base for periodical incursions. +One by one most of them fell again into the hands +of their rightful owners, till they had recovered all +their Atlantic sea-board. On the Mediterranean, +Ceuta, which had belonged to Portugal, came under<a name="page12" id="page12"></a><span class="left">[page 12]</span> +the rule of Spain when those countries were united, +and the Spaniards hold it still, as they do less +important positions further east.</p> +<p> +The piracy days of the Moors have long passed, +but they only ceased at the last moment they could +do so with grace, before the introduction of steamships. +There was not, at the best of times, much +of the noble or heroic in their raids, which generally +took the nature of lying in wait with well-armed, +many-oared vessels, for unarmed, unwieldy merchantmen +which were becalmed, or were outpaced +by sail and oar together.</p> +<p> +Early in the nineteenth century Algiers was +forced to abandon piracy before Lord Exmouth's +guns, and soon after the Moors were given to +understand that it could no longer be permitted +to them either, since the Moorish "fleets"—if +worthy the name—had grown so weak, and those +of the Nazarenes so strong, that the tables were +turned. Yet for many years more the nations of +Europe continued the tribute wherewith the rapacity +of the Moors was appeased, and to the United +States belongs the honour of first refusing this +disgraceful payment.</p> +<p> +The manner in which the rovers of Salli and +other ports were permitted to flourish so long can +be explained in no other way than by the supposition +that they were regarded as a sort of necessary +nuisance, just a hornet's-nest by the wayside, which +it would be hopeless to destroy, as they would +merely swarm elsewhere. And then we must +remember that the Moors were not the only +pirates of those days, and that Europeans have +to answer for the most terrible deeds of the<a name="page13" id="page13"></a><span class="left">[page 13]</span> +Mediterranean corsairs. News did not travel then +as it does now. Though students of Morocco +history are amazed at the frequent captures and the +thousands of Christian slaves so imported, abroad it +was only here and there that one was heard of +at a time.</p> +<p> +To-day the plunder of an Italian sailing vessel +aground on their shore, or the fate of too-confident +Spanish smugglers running close in with arms, is +heard of the world round. And in the majority +of cases there is at least a question: What were +the victims doing there? Not that this in any +way excuses the so-called "piracy," but it must not +be forgotten in considering the question. Almost +all these tribes in the troublous districts carry +European arms, instead of the more picturesque +native flint-lock: and as not a single gun is legally +permitted to pass the customs, there must be a +considerable inlet somewhere, for prices are not +high.</p> + + +<p class="footnote"><a name="I1" id="I1"></a> +<a href="#I1r">*</a> For a complete outline of Moorish history, see the writer's +"Moorish Empire."</p> + + + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page14" id="page14"></a><span class="left">[page 14]</span> + +<h3>II</h3> + +<h2>THE PRESENT DAY</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"What has passed has gone, and what is to come is distant; +Thou hast only the hour in which thou art."</p> +<p class="rindent"> + <i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + + +<p> +Far from being, as Hood described them, "poor +rejected Moors who raised our childish fears," the +people of Morocco consist of fine, open races, capable +of anything, but literally rotting in one of the finest +countries of the world. The Moorish remains in +Spain, as well as the pages of history, testify to the +manner in which they once flourished, but to-day +their appearance is that of a nation asleep. Yet +great strides towards reform have been made during +the past century, and each decade sees steps taken +more important than the last. For the present +decade is promised complete transformation.</p> +<p> +But how little do we know of this people! The +very name "Moor" is a European invention, unknown +in Morocco, where no more precise definition +of the inhabitants can be given than that of +"Westerners"—Maghribîn, while the land itself is +known as "The Further West"—El Moghreb el +Aksa. The name we give to the country is but +a corruption of that of the southern capital, +Marrákesh ("Morocco City") through the Spanish +version, Marueccos.</p> + +<a name="page15" id="page15"></a><span class="left">[page 15]</span> +<p> +The genuine Moroccans are the Berbers among +whom the Arabs introduced Islám and its civilization, +later bringing Negroes from their raids +across the Atlas to the Sudán and Guinea. The +remaining important section of the people are Jews +of two classes—those settled in the country from +prehistoric times, and those driven to it when +expelled from Spain. With the exception of the +Arabs and the Blacks, none of these pull together, +and in that case it is only because the latter are +either subservient to the former, or incorporated +with them.</p> +<p> +First in importance come the earliest known +possessors of the land, the Berbers. These are not +confined to Morocco, but still hold the rocky fastnesses +which stretch from the Atlantic, opposite the +Canaries, to the borders of Egypt; from the sands +of the Mediterranean to those of the Sáhara, that +vast extent of territory to which we have given +their name, Barbary. Of these but a small proportion +really amalgamated with their Muslim +victors, and it is only to this mixed race which +occupies the cities of Morocco that the name +"Moor" is strictly applicable.</p> +<p> +On the plains are to be found the Arabs, their +tents scattered in every direction. From the +Atlantic to the Atlas, from Tangier to Mogador, +and then away through the fertile province of Sûs, +one of the chief features of Morocco is the series of +wide alluvial treeless plains, often apparently as flat +as a table, but here and there cut up by winding +rivers and crossed by low ridges. The fertility of +these districts is remarkable; but owing to the misgovernment +of the country, which renders native<a name="page16" id="page16"></a><span class="left">[page 16]</span> +property so insecure, only a small portion is cultivated. +The untilled slopes which border the plains +are generally selected by the Arabs for their encampments, +circles or ovals of low goat-hair tents, +each covering a large area in proportion to the +number of its inhabitants.</p> +<p> +The third section of the people of Morocco—by +no means the least important—has still to be glanced +at; these are the ubiquitous, persecuted and persecuting +Jews. Everywhere that money changes +hands and there is business to be done they are to +be found. In the towns and among the thatched +huts of the plains, even in the Berber villages on +the slopes of the Atlas, they have their colonies. +With the exception of a few ports wherein European +rule in past centuries has destroyed the boundaries, +they are obliged to live in their own restricted +quarters, and in most instances are only permitted +to cross the town barefooted and on foot, never to +ride a horse. In the Atlas they live in separate +villages adjoining or close to those belonging to +the Berbers, and sometimes even larger than they. +Always clad in black or dark-coloured cloaks, with +hideous black skull-caps or white-spotted blue kerchiefs +on their heads, they are conspicuous everywhere. +They address the Moors with a villainous, +cringing look which makes the sons of Ishmael +savage, for they know it is only feigned. In return +they are treated like dogs, and cordial hatred exists +on both sides. So they live, together yet divided; +the Jew despised but indispensable, bullied but +thriving. He only wins at law when richer than +his opponent; against a Muslim he can bear no +testimony; there is scant pretence at justice. He<a name="page17" id="page17"></a><span class="left">[page 17]</span> +dares not lift his hand to strike a Moor, however ill-treated, +but he finds revenge in sucking his life's +blood by usury. Receiving no mercy, he shows +none, and once in his clutches, his prey is fortunate +to escape with his life.</p> +<p> +The happy influence of more enlightened +European Jews is, however, making itself felt in +the chief towns, through excellent schools supported +from London and Paris, which are turning out a +class of highly respectable citizens. While the +Moors fear the tide of advancing westernization, +the town Jews court it, and in them centres one of +the chief prospects of the country's welfare. Into +their hands has already been gathered much of the +trade of Morocco, and there can be little doubt that, +by the end of the thirty years' grace afforded to +other merchants than the French, they will have +practically absorbed it all, even the Frenchmen +trading through them. They have at least the +intimate knowledge of the people and local conditions +to which so few foreigners ever attain.</p> +<p> +When the Moorish Empire comes to be pacifically +penetrated and systematically explored, it +will probably be found that little more is known +of it than of China, notwithstanding its proximity, +and its comparatively insignificant size. A map +honestly drawn, from observations only, would +astonish most people by its vast blank spaces.<a name="II1r" id="II1r"></a><a href="#II1"><sup>*</sup></a> It +would be noted that the limit of European exploration—with +the exception of the work of two or +three hardy travellers in disguise—is less than two +hundred miles from the coast, and that this limit<a name="page18" id="page18"></a><span class="left">[page 18]</span> +is reached at two points only—south of Fez and +Marrákesh respectively,—which form the apices of +two well-known triangular districts, the contiguous +bases of which form part of the Atlantic coast line, +under four hundred miles in length. Beyond these +limits all is practically unknown, the language, customs +and beliefs of the people providing abundant +ground for speculation, and permitting theorists free +play. So much is this the case, that a few years ago +an enthusiastic "savant" was able to imagine that he +had discovered a hidden race of dwarfs beyond the +Atlas, and to obtain credence for his "find" among +the best-informed students of Europe.</p> +<p> +But there is also another point of view from +which Morocco is unknown, that of native thought +and feeling, penetrated by extremely few Europeans, +even when they mingle freely with the people, and +converse with them in Arabic. The real Moor is +little known by foreigners, a very small number +of whom mix with the better classes. Some, as +officials, meet officials, but get little below the official +exterior. Those who know most seldom speak, +their positions or their occupations preventing the +expression of their opinions. Sweeping statements +about Morocco may therefore be received with +reserve, and dogmatic assertions with caution. +This Empire is in no worse condition now than it +has been for centuries; indeed, it is much better +off than ever since its palmy days, and there is no +occasion whatever to fear its collapse.</p> +<p> +Few facts are more striking in the study of +Morocco than the absolute stagnation of its people, +except in so far as they have been to a very limited +extent affected by outside influences. Of what<a name="page19" id="page19"></a><span class="left">[page 19]</span> +European—or even oriental—land could descriptions +of life and manners written in the sixteenth +century apply as fully in the twentieth as do those +of Morocco by Leo Africanus? Or even to come +later, compare the transitions England has undergone +since Höst and Jackson wrote a hundred years +ago, with the changes discoverable in Morocco since +that time. The people of Morocco remain the same, +and their more primitive customs are those of far +earlier ages, of the time when their ancestors lived +upon the plain of Palestine and North Arabia, and +when "in the loins of Abraham" the now unfriendly +Jew and Arab were yet one. It is the position of +Europeans among them which has changed.</p> +<p> +In the time of Höst and Jackson piracy was +dying hard, restrained by tribute from all the +Powers of Europe. The foreign merchant was +not only tolerated, but was at times supplied with +capital by the Moorish sultans, to whom he was +allowed to go deeply in debt for custom's dues, and +half a century later the British Consul at Mogador +was not permitted to embark to escape a bombardment +of the town, because of his debt to the Sultan. +Many of the restrictions complained of to-day are +the outcome of the almost enslaved condition of the +merchants of those times in consequence of such +customs. Indeed, the position of the European in +Morocco is still a series of anomalies, and so it is +likely to continue until it passes under foreign rule.</p> +<p> +The same old spirit of independence reigns in +the Berber breast to-day as when he conquered +Spain, and though he has forgotten his past and +cares naught for his future, he still considers himself +a superior being, and feels that no country can rival<a name="page20" id="page20"></a><span class="left">[page 20]</span> +his home. In his eyes the embassies from Europe +and America come only to pay the tribute which +is the price of peace with his lord, and when he +sees a foreign minister in all his black and gold +stand in the sun bareheaded to address the mounted +Sultan beneath his parasol, he feels more proud +than ever of his greatness, and is more decided +to be pleasant to the stranger, but to keep him out.</p> +<p> +Instead of increased relations between Moors +and foreigners tending to friendship, the average +foreign settler or tourist is far too bigoted and +narrow-minded to see any good in the native, much +less to acknowledge his superiority on certain points. +Wherever the Sultan's authority is recognized the +European is free to travel and live, though past +experience has led officials not to welcome him. +At the same time, he remains entirely under the +jurisdiction of his own authorities, except in cases +of murder or grave crime, when he must be at once +handed over to the nearest consul of his country. +Not only are he and his household thus protected, +but also his native employees, and, to a certain +extent, his commercial and agricultural agents.</p> +<p> +Thus foreigners in Morocco enjoy within the +limits of the central power the security of their own +lands, and the justice of their own laws. They do +not even find in Morocco that immunity from justice +which some ignorant writers of fiction have supposed; +for unless a foreigner abandons his own nationality +and creed, and buries himself in the interior under +a native name, he cannot escape the writs of foreign +courts. In any case, the Moorish authorities will +arrest him on demand, and hand him over to his +consul to be dealt with according to law. The<a name="page21" id="page21"></a><span class="left">[page 21]</span> +colony of refugees which has been pictured by +imaginative raconteurs is therefore non-existent. +Instead there are growing colonies of business men, +officials, missionaries, and a few retired residents, +quite above the average of such colonies in the +Levant, for instance.</p> +<p> +For many years past, though the actual business +done has shown a fairly steady increase, the commercial +outlook in Morocco has gone from bad to +worse. Yet more of its products are now exported, +and there are more European articles in demand, +than were thought of twenty years ago. This +anomalous and almost paradoxical condition is due +to the increase of competition and the increasing +weakness of the Government. Men who had hope +a few years ago, now struggle on because they have +staked too much to be able to leave for more +promising fields. This has been especially the +case since the late Sultan's death. The disturbances +which followed that event impoverished many +tribes, and left behind a sense of uncertainty and +dread. No European Bourse is more readily or +lastingly affected by local political troubles than the +general trade of a land like Morocco, in which men +live so much from hand to mouth.</p> +<p> +It is a noteworthy feature of Moorish diplomatic +history that to the Moors' love of foreign trade we +owe almost every step that has led to our present +relations with the Empire. Even while their rovers +were the terror of our merchantmen, as has been +pointed out, foreign traders were permitted to reside +in their ports, the facilities granted to them forming +the basis of all subsequent negotiations. Now that +concession after concession has been wrung from<a name="page22" id="page22"></a><span class="left">[page 22]</span> +their unwilling Government, and in spite of freedom +of residence, travel, and trade in the most important +parts of the Empire, it is disheartening to see the +foreign merchant in a worse condition than ever.</p> +<p> +The previous generation, fewer in number, enjoying +far less privileges, and subjected to restrictions +and indignities that would not be suffered to-day, +were able to make their fortunes and retire, while +their successors find it hard to hold their own. +The "hundred tonners" who, in the palmy days of +Mogador, were wont to boast that they shipped no +smaller quantities at once, are a dream of the past. +The ostrich feathers and elephants' tusks no longer +find their way out by that port, and little gold now +passes in or out. Merchant princes will never +be seen here again; commercial travellers from +Germany are found in the interior, and quality, as +well as price, has been reduced to its lowest ebb.</p> +<p> +A crowd of petty trading agents has arisen with +no capital to speak of, yet claiming and abusing +credit, of which a most ruinous system prevails, and +that in a land in which the collection of debts is +proverbially difficult, and oftentimes impossible. +The native Jews, who were interpreters and +brokers years ago, have now learned the business +and entered the lists. These new competitors +content themselves with infinitesimal profits, or +none at all in cases where the desideratum is cash +to lend out at so many hundreds per cent. per +annum. Indeed, it is no uncommon practice for +goods bought on long credit to be sold below cost +price for this purpose. Against such methods who +can compete?</p> +<p> +Yet this is a rich, undeveloped land—not exactly<a name="page23" id="page23"></a><span class="left">[page 23]</span> +an El Dorado, though certainly as full of promise +as any so styled has proved to be when reached—favoured +physically and geographically, but politically +stagnant, cursed with an effete administration, +fettered by a decrepit creed. In view of this +situation, it is no wonder that from time to time +specious schemes appear and disappear with clockwork +regularity. Now it is in England, now in +France, that a gambling public is found to hazard +the cost of proving the impossibility of opening the +country with a rush, and the worthlessness of so-called +concessions and monopolies granted by sheïkhs +in the south, who, however they may chafe under +existing rule which forbids them ports of their own, +possess none of the powers required to treat with +foreigners.</p> +<p> +As normal trade has waned in Morocco, busy +minds have not been slow in devising illicit, or at +least unusual, methods of making money, even, one +regrets to say, of making false money. Among +the drawbacks suffered by the commerce which +pines under the shade of the shareefian umbrella, +one—and that far from the least—is the unsatisfactory +coinage, which till a few years ago was almost +entirely foreign. To have to depend in so important +a matter on any mint abroad is bad enough, +but for that mint to be Spanish means much. +Centuries ago the Moors coined more, but with the +exception of a horrible token of infinitesimal value +called "floos," the products of their extinct mints +are only to be found in the hands of collectors, in +buried hoards, or among the jewellery displayed at +home by Mooresses and Jewesses, whose fortunes, +so invested, may not be seized for debt. Some<a name="page24" id="page24"></a><span class="left">[page 24]</span> +of the older issues are thin and square, with well-preserved +inscriptions, and of these a fine collection—mostly +gold—may be seen at the British Museum; +but the majority, closely resembling those of India +and Persia, are rudely stamped and unmilled, not +even round, but thick, and of fairly good metal. +The "floos" referred to (<i>sing.</i> "fils") are of three +sizes, coarsely struck in zinc rendered hard and +yellow by the addition of a little copper. The +smallest, now rarely met with, runs about 19,500 +to £1 when this is worth 32½ Spanish pesetas; the +other two, still the only small change of the country, +are respectively double and quadruple its value. +The next coin in general circulation is worth 2<i>d.</i>, +so the inconvenience is great. A few years ago, +however, Europeans resident in Tangier resolutely +introduced among themselves the Spanish ten and +five céntimo pieces, corresponding to our 1<i>d.</i> and +½<i>d.</i>, which are now in free local use, but are not +accepted up-country.</p> +<p> +What passes as Moorish money to-day has been +coined in France for many years, more recently +also in Germany; the former is especially neat, but +the latter lacks style. The denominations coincide +with those of Spain, whose fluctuations in value they +closely follow at a respectful distance. This autumn +the "Hasáni" coin—that of Mulai el Hasan, the late +Sultan—has fallen to fifty per cent. discount on +Spanish. With the usual perversity also, the common +standard "peseta," in which small bargains are struck +on the coast, was omitted, the nearest coin, the +quarter-dollar, being nominally worth ptas. 1.25. It +was only after a decade, too, that the Government +put in circulation the dollars struck in France,<a name="page25" id="page25"></a><span class="left">[page 25]</span> +which had hitherto been laid up in the treasury +as a reserve. And side by side with the German +issue came abundant counterfeit coins, against which +Government warnings were published, to the serious +disadvantage of the legal issue. Even the Spanish +copper has its rival, and a Frenchman was once +detected trying to bring in a nominal four hundred +dollars' worth of an imitation, which he promptly +threw overboard when the port guards raised +objections to its quality.</p> +<p> +The increasing need of silver currency inland, +owing to its free use in the manufacture of trinkets, +necessitates a constant importation, and till +recently all sorts of coins, discarded elsewhere, +were in circulation. This was the case especially +with French, Swiss, Belgian, Italian, Greek, Roumanian, +and other pieces of the value of twenty +céntimos, known here by the Turkish name "gursh," +which were accepted freely in Central Morocco, but +not in the north. Twenty years ago Spanish +Carolus, Isabella and Philippine shillings and +kindred coins were in use all over the country, +and when they were withdrawn from circulation in +Spain they were freely shipped here, till the +country was flooded with them. When the merchants +and customs at last refused them, their +astute importers took them back at a discount, +putting them into circulation later at what they +could, only to repeat the transaction. In Morocco +everything a man can be induced to take is legal +tender, and for bribes and religious offerings all +things pass, this practice being an easier matter +than at first sight appears; so in the course of a +few years one saw a whole series of coins in vogue,<a name="page26" id="page26"></a><span class="left">[page 26]</span> +one after the other, the main transactions taking +place on the coast with country Moors, than whom, +though none more suspicious, none are more easily +gulled.</p> +<p> +A much more serious obstacle to inland trade is +the periodically disturbed state of the country, not +so much the local struggles and uprisings which +serve to free superfluous energy, as the regular +administrative expeditions of the Moorish Court, +or of considerable bodies of troops. These used to +take place in some direction every year, "the time +when kings go forth to war" being early summer, +just when agricultural operations are in full swing, +and every man is needed on his fields. In one +district the ranks of the workers are depleted by a +form of conscription or "harka," and in another +these unfortunates are employed preventing others +doing what they should be doing at home. Thus +all suffer, and those who are not themselves engaged +in the campaign are forced to contribute cash, if only +to find substitutes to take their places in the +ranks.</p> +<p> +The movement of the Moorish Court means the +transportation of a numerous host at tremendous +expense, which has eventually to be recouped in the +shape of regular contributions, arrears of taxes and +fines, collected <i>en route</i>, so the pace is abnormally +slow. Not only is there an absolute absence of +roads, and, with one or two exceptions, of bridges, +but the Sultan himself, with all his army, cannot +take the direct route between his most important +inland cities without fighting his way. The configuration +of the empire explains its previous sub-division +into the kingdoms of Fez, Marrákesh,<a name="page27" id="page27"></a><span class="left">[page 27]</span> +Tafilált and Sûs, and the Reef, for between the +plains of each run mountain ranges which have +never known absolute "foreign" rulers.</p> +<br /><a name="river" id="river"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/026.jpg"><img src="images/026-500.jpg" width="500" height="313" alt="CROSSING A MOROCCO RIVER." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Molinari, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>CROSSING A MOROCCO RIVER.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +To European engineers the passes through these +closed districts would offer no great obstacles in the +construction of roads such as thread the Himalayas, +but the Moors do not wish for the roads; for, while +what the Government fears to promote thereby is +combination, the actual occupants of the mountains, +the native Berbers, desire not to see the Arab tax-gatherers, +only tolerating their presence as long as +they cannot help it, and then rising against them.</p> +<p> +Often a tribe will be left for several years to enjoy +independence, while the slip-shod army of the Sultan +is engaged elsewhere. When its turn comes it holds +out for terms, since it has no hope of successfully +confronting such an overwhelming force as is sooner +or later brought against it. The usual custom is to +send small detachments of soldiers to the support of +the over-grasping functionaries, and when they have +been worsted, to send down an army to "eat up" +the province, burning villages, deporting cattle, ill-treating +the women, and often carrying home +children as slaves. The men of the district probably +flee and leave their homes to be ransacked. +They content themselves with hiding behind crags +which seem to the plainsmen inaccessible, whence +they can in safety harass the troops on the march. +After more or less protracted skirmishing, the +country having been devastated by the troops, who +care only for the booty, women will be sent into the +camp to make terms, or one of the shareefs or +religious nobles who accompany the army is sent +out to treat with the rebels. The terms are usually<a name="page28" id="page28"></a><span class="left">[page 28]</span> +hard—so much arrears of tribute in cash and kind, +so much as a fine for expenses, so many hostages. +Then hostages and prisoners are driven to the +capital in chains, and pickled heads are exposed on +the gateways, imperial letters being read in the chief +mosques throughout the country, telling of a glorious +victory, and calling for rejoicings. To any other +people the short spell of freedom would have been +too dearly bought for the experiment to be repeated, +but as soon as they begin to chafe again beneath +the lawless rule of Moorish officials, the Berbers +rebel once more. It has been going on thus for +hundreds of years, and will continue till put an end +to by France.</p> +<p> +In Morocco each official preys upon the one +below him, and on all others within his reach, till +the poor oppressed and helpless villager lives in +terror of them all, not daring to display signs of +prosperity for fear of tempting plunder. Merit is +no key to positions of trust and authority, and few +have such sufficient salary attached to render them +attractive to honest men. The holders are expected +in most cases to make a living out of the pickings, +and are allowed an unquestioned run of office till +they are presumed to have amassed enough to make +it worth while treating them as they have treated +others, when they are called to account and relentlessly +"squeezed." The only means of staving off +the fatal day is by frequent presents to those above +them, wrung from those below. A large proportion +of Moorish officials end their days in disgrace, if +not in dungeons, and some meet their end by being +invited to corrosive sublimate tea, a favourite +beverage in Morocco—for others. Yet there is<a name="page29" id="page29"></a><span class="left">[page 29]</span> +always a demand for office, and large prices are +paid for posts affording opportunities for plunder.</p> +<p> +The Moorish financial system is of a piece with +this method. When the budget is made out, each +tribe or district is assessed at the utmost it is +believed capable of yielding, and the candidate for +its governorship who undertakes to get most out of +it probably has the task allotted to him. His first +duty is to repeat on a small scale the operation +of the Government, informing himself minutely as +to the resources under his jurisdiction, and assessing +the sub-divisions so as to bring in enough for himself, +and to provide against contingencies, in addition +to the sum for which he is responsible. The local +sheïkhs or head-men similarly apportion their +demands among the individuals entrusted to their +tender mercy. A fool is said to have once presented +the Sultan with a bowl of skimmed and watered +milk, and on being remonstrated with, to have +declared that His Majesty received no more from +any one, as his wazeers and governors ate half the +revenue cream each, and the sheïkhs drank half the +revenue milk. The fool was right.</p> +<p> +The richer a man is, the less proportion he will +have to pay, for he can make it so agreeable—or +disagreeable—for those entrusted with a little brief +authority. It is the struggling poor who have to +pay or go to prison, even if to pay they have to +sell their means of subsistence. Three courses lie +before this final victim—to obtain the protection of +some influential name, native or foreign, to buy a +"friend at court," or to enter Nazarene service. +But native friends are uncertain and hard to find, +and, above all, they may be alienated by a higher<a name="page30" id="page30"></a><span class="left">[page 30]</span> +bid from a rival or from a rapacious official. Such +affairs are of common occurrence, and harrowing +tales might be told of homes broken up in this way, +of tortures inflicted, and of lives spent in dungeons +because display has been indulged in, or because an +independent position has been assumed under cover +of a protection that has failed. But what can one +expect with such a standard of honour?</p> +<p> +Foreigners, on the other hand, seldom betray +their <i>protégés</i>—although, to their shame be it +mentioned, some in high places have done so,—wherefore +their protection is in greater demand; +besides which it is more effectual, as coming from +outside, while no Moor, however well placed, is +absolutely secure in his own position. Thus it is +that the down-trodden natives desire and are +willing to pay for protection in proportion to their +means; and it is this power of dispensing protection +which, though often abused, does more than +anything else to raise the prestige of the foreigner, +and in turn to protect him.</p> +<p> +The claims most frequently made against Moors +by foreign countries are for debt, claims which +afford the greatest scope for controversy and the +widest loophole for abuse. Although, unfortunately, +for the greater part usurious, a fair proportion are +for goods delivered, but to evade the laws even loan +receipts are made out as for goods to be delivered, +a form in which discrimination is extremely difficult. +The condition of the country, in which every man +is liable to be arrested, thrashed, imprisoned, if not +tortured, to extort from him his wealth, is such as +furnishes the usurer with crowding clients; and the +condition of things among the Indian cultivators,<a name="page31" id="page31"></a><span class="left">[page 31]</span> +bad as it is, since they can at least turn to a fair-handed +Government, is not to be compared to that +of the down-trodden Moorish farmer.</p> +<p> +The assumption by the Government of responsibility +for the debts of its subjects, or at all events +its undertaking to see that they pay, is part of the +patriarchal system in force, by which the family is +made responsible for individuals, the tribe for +families, and so on. No other system would bring +offenders to justice without police; but it transforms +each man into his brother's keeper. This, +however, does not apply only to debts the collection +of which is urged upon the Government, for whom +it is sufficient to produce the debtor and let him +prove absolute poverty for him to be released, +with the claim cancelled. This in theory: but +in practice, to appease these claims, however +just, innocent men are often thrown into prison, +and untold horrors are suffered, in spite of all +the efforts of foreign ministers to counteract the +injustice.</p> +<p> +A mere recital of tales which have come under +my own observation would but harrow my readers' +feelings to no purpose, and many would appear +incredible. With the harpies of the Government +at their heels, men borrow wildly for a month or +two at cent. per cent., and as the Moorish law +prohibits interest, a document is sworn to before +notaries by which the borrower declares that he has +that day taken in hard cash the full amount to be +repaid, the value of certain crops or produce of +which he undertakes delivery upon a certain date. +Very seldom, indeed, does it happen that by that +date the money can be repaid, and generally the<a name="page32" id="page32"></a><span class="left">[page 32]</span> +only terms offered for an extension of time for +another three or six months are the addition of +another fifty or one hundred per cent. to the debt, +always fully secured on property, or by the bonds of +property holders. Were not this thing of everyday +occurrence in Morocco, and had I not examined +scores of such papers, the way in which the ignorant +Moors fall into such traps would seem incredible. +It is usual to blame the Jews for it all, and though +the business lies mostly in their hands, it must +not be overlooked that many foreigners engage in +it, and, though indirectly, some Moors also.</p> +<p> +But besides such claims, there is a large proportion +of just business debts which need to be +enforced. It does not matter how fair a claim +may be, or how legitimate, it is very rarely that +trouble is not experienced in pressing it. The +Moorish Courts are so venal, so degraded, that it +is more often the unscrupulous usurer who wins his +case and applies the screw, than the honest trader. +Here lies the rub. Another class of claims is for +damage done, loss suffered, or compensation for +imaginary wrongs. All these together mount up, +and a newly appointed minister or consul-general +is aghast at the list which awaits him. He probably +contents himself at first with asking for the appointment +of a commission to examine and report on the +legality of all these claims, and for the immediate +settlement of those approved. But he asks and is +promised in vain, till at last he obtains the moral +support of war-ships, in view of which the Moorish +Government most likely pays much more than it +would have got off with at first, and then proceeds +to victimize the debtors.</p> + +<a name="page33" id="page33"></a><span class="left">[page 33]</span> +<p> +It is with expressed threats of bombardment +that the ships come, but experience has taught +the Moorish Government that it is well not to let +things go that length, and they now invariably +settle amicably. To our western notions it may +seem strange that whatever questions have to be +attended to should not be put out of hand without +requiring such a demonstration; but while there is +sleep there is hope for an Oriental, and the rulers +of Morocco would hardly be Moors if they resisted +the temptation to procrastinate, for who knows what +may happen while they delay? And then there is +always the chance of driving a bargain, so dear to +the Moorish heart, for the wazeer knows full well +that although the Nazarene may be prepared to +bombard, as he has done from time to time, he is +no more desirous than the Sultan that such an +extreme measure should be necessary.</p> +<p> +So, even when things come to the pinch, and the +exasperated representative of Christendom talks +hotly of withdrawing, hauling down his flag and +giving hostile orders, there is time at least to make +an offer, or to promise everything in words. And +when all is over, claims paid, ships gone, compliments +and presents passed, nothing really serious +has happened, just the everyday scene on the +market applied to the nation, while the Moorish +Government has once more given proof of worldly +wisdom, and endorsed the proverb that discretion +is the better part of valour.</p> +<p> +An illustration of the high-handed way in which +things are done in Morocco has but recently been +afforded by the action of France regarding an +alleged Algerian subject arrested by the Moorish<a name="page34" id="page34"></a><span class="left">[page 34]</span> +authorities for conspiracy. The man, Boo Zîan +Miliáni by name, was the son of one of those +Algerians who, when their country was conquered +by the French, preferred exile to submission, and +migrated to Morocco, where they became naturalized. +He was charged with supporting the so-called "pretender" +in the Reef province, where he was arrested +with two others early in August last. His particular +offence appears to have been the reading +of the "Rogi's" proclamations to the public, and +inciting them to rebel against the Sultan. But +when brought a prisoner to Tangier, and thence +despatched to Fez, he claimed French citizenship, +and the Minister of France, then at Court, demanded +his release.</p> +<p> +This being refused, a peremptory note followed, +with a threat to break off diplomatic negotiations if +the demand were not forthwith complied with. The +usual <i>communiqués</i> were made to the Press, whereby +a chorus was produced setting forth the insult to +France, the imminence of war, and the general gravity +of the situation. Many alarming head-lines were +provided for the evening papers, and extra copies +were doubtless sold. In Morocco, however, not +only the English and Spanish papers, but also the +French one, admitted that the action of France was +wrong, though the ultimate issue was never in doubt, +and the man's release was a foregone conclusion. +Elsewhere the rights of the matter would have been +sifted, and submitted at least to the law-courts, if +not to arbitration.</p> +<p> +While the infliction of this indignity was stirring +up northern Morocco, the south was greatly +exercised by the presence on the coast of a French<a name="page35" id="page35"></a><span class="left">[page 35]</span> +vessel, <i>L'Aigle</i>, officers from which proceeded ostentatiously +to survey the fortifications of Mogador +and its island, and then effected a landing on the +latter by night. Naturally the coastguards fired at +them, fortunately without causing damage, but had +any been killed, Europe would have rung with the +"outrage." From Mogador the vessel proceeded +after a stay of a month to Agadir, the first port of +Sûs, closed to Europeans.</p> +<p> +Here its landing-party was met on the beach by +some hundreds of armed men, whose commander +resolutely forbade them to land, so they had to +retire. Had they not done so, who would answer +for the consequences? As it was, the natives, +eager to attack the "invaders," were with difficulty +kept in hand, and one false step would undoubtedly +have led to serious bloodshed. Of course +this was a dreadful rebuff for "pacific penetration," +but the matter was kept quiet as a little premature, +since in Europe the coast is not quite clear enough +yet for retributory measures. The effect, however, +on the Moors, among whom the affair grew more +grave each time it was recited, was out of all proportion +to the real importance of the incident, which +otherwise might have passed unnoticed.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="II1" id="II1"></a> +<a href="#II1r">*</a> An approximation to this is given in the writer's "Land of the +Moors."</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page36" id="page36"></a><span class="left">[page 36]</span> + + +<h3>III</h3> + +<h2>BEHIND THE SCENES</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"He knows of every vice an ounce."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + + +<p> +Though most eastern lands may be described as +slip-shod, with reference both to the feet of their +inhabitants and to the way in which things are done, +there can be no country in the world more aptly +described by that epithet than Morocco. One of +the first things which strikes the visitor to this +country is the universality of the slipper as foot-gear, +at least, so far as the Moors are concerned. +In the majority of cases the men wear the heels +of their slippers folded down under the feet, only +putting them up when necessity compels them to +run, which they take care shall not be too often, +as they much prefer a sort of ambling gait, best +compared to that of their mules, or to that of an +English tramp.</p> +<p> +Nothing delights them better as a means of +agreeably spending an hour or two, than squatting +on their heels in the streets or on some door-stoop, +gazing at the passers-by, exchanging compliments +with their acquaintances. Native "swells" +consequently promenade with a piece of felt under +their arms on which to sit when they wish, in<a name="page37" id="page37"></a><span class="left">[page 37]</span> +addition to its doing duty as a carpet for prayer. +The most public places, and usually the cool of +the afternoon, are preferred for this pastime.</p> +<p> +The ladies of their Jewish neighbours also like +to sit at their doors in groups at the same hour, or +in the doorways of main thoroughfares on moonlight +evenings, while the gentlemen, who prefer +to do their gossiping afoot, roam up and down. +But this is somewhat apart from the point of the +lazy tendencies of the Moors. With them—since +they have no trains to catch, and disdain punctuality—all +hurry is undignified, and one could as easily +imagine an elegantly dressed Moorish scribe literally +flying as running, even on the most urgent errand. +"Why run," they ask, "when you might just as +well walk? Why walk, when standing would do? +Why stand, when sitting is so much less fatiguing? +Why sit, when lying down gives so much more rest? +And why, lying down, keep your eyes open?"</p> +<p> +In truth, this is a country in which things are +left pretty much to look after themselves. Nothing +is done that can be left undone, and everything is +postponed until "to-morrow." Slipper-slapper go +the people, and slipper-slapper goes their policy. +If you can get through a duty by only half doing +it, by all means do so, is the generally accepted rule +of life. In anything you have done for you by a +Moor, you are almost sure to discover that he has +"scamped" some part; perhaps the most important. +This, of course, means doing a good deal yourself, +if you like things done well, a maxim holding good +everywhere, indeed, but especially here.</p> +<p> +The Moorish Government's way of doing things—or +rather, of not doing them if it can find an<a name="page38" id="page38"></a><span class="left">[page 38]</span> +excuse—is eminently slip-shod. The only point in +which they show themselves astute is in seeing that +their Rubicon has a safe bridge by which they may +retreat, if that suits their plans after crossing it. To +deceive the enemy they hide this as best they can, +for the most part successfully, causing the greatest +consternation in the opposite camp, which, at the +moment when it thinks it has driven them into a +corner, sees their ranks gradually thinning from +behind, dribbling away by an outlet hitherto invisible. +Thus, in accepting a Moor's promise, +one must always consider the conditions or rider +annexed.</p> +<p> +This can be well illustrated by the reluctant +permission to transport grain from one Moorish +port to another, granted from time to time, but so +hampered by restrictions as to be only available to +a few, the Moorish Government itself deriving the +greatest advantage from it. Then, too, there is the +property clause in the Convention of Madrid, which +has been described as the sop by means of which +the Powers were induced to accept other less +favourable stipulations. Instead of being the step +in advance which it appeared to be, it was, in +reality, a backward step, the conditions attached +making matters worse than before.</p> +<p> +In this way only do the Moors shine as politicians, +unless prevarication and procrastination be +included, Machiavellian arts in which they easily +excel. Otherwise they are content to jog along +in the same slip-shod manner as their fathers did +centuries ago, as soon as prosperity had removed +the incentive to exert the energy they once +possessed. The same carelessness marks their<a name="page39" id="page39"></a><span class="left">[page 39]</span> +conduct in everything, and the same unsatisfactory +results inevitably follow.</p> +<p> +But to get at the root of the matter it is necessary +to go a step further. The absolute lack of +morals among the people is the real cause of the +trouble. Morocco is so deeply sunk in the degradation +of vice, and so given up to lust, that it is +impossible to lay bare its deplorable condition. In +most countries, with a fair proportion of the pure +and virtuous, some attempt is made to gloss over +and conceal one's failings; but in this country the +only vice which public opinion seriously condemns +is drunkenness, and it is only before foreigners that +any sense of shame or desire for secrecy about +others is observable. The Moors have not yet +attained to that state of hypocritical sanctimoniousness +in which modern society in civilized lands +delights to parade itself.</p> +<p> +The taste for strong drink, though still indulged +comparatively in secret, is steadily increasing, the +practice spreading from force of example among the +Moors themselves, as a result of the strenuous +efforts of foreigners to inculcate this vice. European +consular reports not infrequently note with +congratulation the growing imports of wines and +liqueurs into Morocco, nominally for the sole use +of foreigners, although manifestly far in excess of +their requirements. As yet, it is chiefly among the +higher and lower classes that the victims are found, +the former indulging in the privacy of their own +homes, and the latter at the low drinking-dens +kept by the scum of foreign settlers in the open +ports. Among the country people of the plains +and lower hills there are hardly any who would touch<a name="page40" id="page40"></a><span class="left">[page 40]</span> +intoxicating liquor, though among the mountaineers +the use of alcohol has ever been more common.</p> +<p> +Tobacco smoking is very general on the coast, +owing to contact with Europeans, but still comparatively +rare in the interior, although the native preparations +of hemp (keef), and also to some extent +opium, have a large army of devotees, more or less +victims. The latter, however, being an expensive +import, is less known in the interior. Snuff-taking +is fairly general among men and women, chiefly the +elderly. What they take is very strong, being a +composition of tobacco, walnut shells, and charcoal +ash. The writer once saw a young Englishman, +who thought he could stand a good pinch of snuff, +fairly "knocked over" by a quarter as much as the +owner of the nut from which it came took with the +utmost complacency.</p> +<p> +The feeling of the Moorish Government about +smoking has long been so strong that in every +treaty with Europe is inserted a clause reserving +the right of prohibiting the importation of all narcotics, +or articles used in their manufacture or consumption. +Till a few years ago the right to deal in +these was granted yearly as a monopoly; but in +1887 the late Sultan, Mulai el Hasan, and his +aoláma, or councillors, decided to abolish the business +altogether, so, purchasing the existing stocks +at a valuation, they had the whole burned. But +first the foreign officials and then private foreigners +demanded the right to import whatever they needed +"for their own consumption," and the abuse of this +courtesy has enabled several tobacco factories to +spring up in the country. The position with regard +to the liquor traffic is almost the same. If the<a name="page41" id="page41"></a><span class="left">[page 41]</span> +Moors were free to legislate as they wished, they +would at once prohibit the importation of intoxicants.</p> +<p> +Of late years, however, a great change has +come over the Moors of the ports, more especially +so in Tangier, where the number of taverns and +<i>cafés</i> has increased most rapidly. During many +years' residence there the cases of drunkenness met +with could be counted on the fingers, and were then +confined to guides or servants of foreigners; on the +last visit paid to the country more were observed +in a month than then in years. In those days to +be seen with a cigarette was almost a crime, and +those who indulged in a whiff at home took care to +deodorize their mouths with powdered coffee; now +Moors sit with Europeans, smoking and drinking, +unabashed, at tables in the streets, but not those +of the better sort. Thus Morocco is becoming +civilized!</p> +<p> +However ashamed a Moor may be of drunkenness, +no one thinks of making a pretence of being +chaste or moral. On the contrary, no worse is +thought of a man who is wholly given up to the +pleasures of the flesh than of one who is addicted +to the most innocent amusements. If a Moor is +remonstrated with, he declares he is not half so +bad as the "Nazarenes" he has come across, who, +in addition to practising most of his vices, indulge +in drunkenness. It is not surprising, therefore, +that the diseases which come as a penalty for these +vices are fearfully prevalent in Morocco. Everywhere +one comes across the ravages of such plagues, +and is sickened at the sight of their victims. Without +going further into details, it will suffice to<a name="page42" id="page42"></a><span class="left">[page 42]</span> +mention that one out of every five patients (mostly +males) who attend at the dispensary of the North +Africa Mission at Tangier are direct, or indirect, +sufferers from these complaints.</p> +<p> +The Moors believe in "sowing wild oats" when +young, till their energy is extinguished, leaving +them incapable of accomplishing anything. Then +they think the pardon of God worth invoking, if +only in the vain hope of having their youth renewed +as the eagle's. Yet if this could happen, they +would be quite ready to commence a fresh series +of follies more outrageous than before. This is a +sad picture, but nevertheless true, and, far from +being exaggerated, does not even hint at much that +exists in Morocco to-day.</p> +<p> +The words of the Korán about such matters +are never considered, though nominally the sole +guide for life. The fact that God is "the Pitying, +the Pitiful, King of the Day of Judgement," is considered +sufficient warrant for the devotees of Islám +to lightly indulge in breaches of laws which they +hold to be His, confident that if they only perform +enough "vain repetitions," fast at the appointed times, +and give alms, visiting Mekka, if possible, or if not, +making pilgrimages to shrines of lesser note nearer +home, God, in His infinite mercy, will overlook all.</p> +<p> +An anonymous writer has aptly remarked—"Every +good Mohammedan has a perpetual free +pass over that line, which not only secures to him +personally a safe transportation to Paradise, but +provides for him upon his arrival there so luxuriously +that he can leave all the cumbersome baggage of +his earthly harem behind him, and begin his celestial +house-keeping with an entirely new outfit."</p> + +<a name="page43" id="page43"></a><span class="left">[page 43]</span> +<p> +Here lies the whole secret of Morocco's backward +state. Her people, having outstepped even +the ample limits of licentiousness laid down in the +Korán, and having long ceased to be even true +Mohammedans, by the time they arrive at manhood +have no energy left to promote her welfare, and +sink into an indolent, procrastinating race, capable of +little in the way of progress till a radical change +takes place in their morals.</p> +<p> +Nothing betrays their moral condition more +clearly than their unrestrained conversation, a +reeking vapour arising from a mass of corruption. +The foul ejaculations of an angry Moor are unreproducible, +only serving to show extreme familiarity +with vice of every sort. The tales to which they +delight to listen, the monotonous chants rehearsed +by hired musicians at public feasts or private entertainments, +and the voluptuous dances they delight +to have performed before them as they lie sipping +forbidden liquors, are all of one class, recounting +and suggesting evil deeds to hearers or observers.</p> +<p> +The constant use made of the name of God, +mostly in stock phrases uttered without a thought +as to their real meaning, is counterbalanced in some +measure by cursing of a most elaborate kind, and +the frequent mention of the "Father of Lies," called +by them "The Liar" <i>par excellence</i>. The term +"elaborate" is the only one wherewith to describe +a curse so carefully worded that, if executed, it would +leave no hope of Paradise either for the unfortunate +addressee or his ancestors for several generations. +On the slightest provocation, or without that excuse, +the Moor can roll forth the most intricate genealogical +objurgations, or rap out an oath. In ordinary<a name="page44" id="page44"></a><span class="left">[page 44]</span> +cases of displeasure he is satisfied with showering +expletives on the parents and grand-parents of the +object of his wrath, with derogatory allusions to the +morals of those worthies' "better halves." "May +God have mercy on thy relatives, O my Lord," is +a common way of addressing a stranger respectfully, +and the contrary expression is used to produce a +reverse effect.</p> +<p> +I am often asked, "What would a Moor think +of this?" Probably some great invention will be +referred to, or some manifest improvement in our +eyes over Moorish methods or manufactures. If +it was something he could see, unless above the +average, he would look at it as a cow looks at a new +gate, without intelligence, realizing only the change, +not the cause or effect. By this time the Moors +are becoming familiar, at least by exaggerated +descriptions, with most of the foreigner's freaks, +and are beginning to refuse to believe that the +Devil assists us, as they used to, taking it for +granted that we should be more ingenious, and +they more wise! The few who think are apt to +pity the rush of our lives, and write us down, from +what they have themselves observed in Europe as +in Morocco, as grossly immoral beside even their +acknowledged failings. The faults of our civilization +they quickly detect, the advantages are mostly +beyond their comprehension.</p> +<p> +Some years ago a friend of mine showed two +Moors some of the sights of London. When they +saw St. Paul's they told of the glories of the +Karûeeïn mosque at Fez; with the towers of +Westminster before them they sang the praises +of the Kûtûbîya at Marrákesh. Whatever they<a name="page45" id="page45"></a><span class="left">[page 45]</span> +saw had its match in Morocco. But at last, as a +huge dray-horse passed along the highway with its +heavy load, one grasped the other's arm convulsively, +exclaiming, "M'bark Allah! Aoûd hadhá!"—"Blessed +be God! That's a horse!" Here at +least was something that did appeal to the heart +of the Arab. For once he saw a creature he could +understand, the like of which was never bred in +Barbary, and his wonder knew no bounds.</p> +<p> +An equally good story is told of an Englishman +who endeavoured to convince a Moor at home of +the size of these horses. With his stick he drew on +the ground one of their full-sized shoes. "But we +have horses beyond the mountains with shoes <i>this</i> +size," was the ready reply, as the native drew +another twice as big. Annoyed at not being able +to convince him, the Englishman sent home for a +specimen shoe. When he showed it to the Moor, +the only remark he elicited was that a native smith +could make one twice the size. Exasperated now, +and not to be outdone, the Englishman sent home +for a cart-horse skull. "Now you've beaten +me!" at last acknowledged the Moor. "You +Christians can make anything, but <i>we can't make +bones!</i>"</p> +<p> +Bigoted and fanatical as the Moors may show +themselves at times, they are generally willing +enough to be friends with those who show themselves +friendly. And notwithstanding the way in +which the strong oppress the weak, as a nation +they are by no means treacherous or cruel; on the +contrary, the average Moor is genial and hospitable, +does not forget a kindness, and is a man whom one +can respect. Yet it is strange how soon a little<a name="page46" id="page46"></a><span class="left">[page 46]</span> +power, and the need for satisfying the demands of +his superiors, will corrupt the mildest of them; +and the worst are to be found among families +which have inherited office. The best officials +are those chosen from among retired merchants +whose palms no longer itch, and who, by intercourse +with Europeans, have had their ideas of life +broadened.</p> +<p> +The greatest obstacle to progress in Morocco is +the blind prejudice of ignorance. It is hard for the +Moors to realize that their presumed hereditary foes +can wish them well, and it is suspicion, rather than +hostility, which induces them to crawl within their +shell and ask to be left alone. Too often subsequent +events have shown what good ground they +have had for suspicion. It is a pleasure for me to +be able to state that during all the years that I have +lived among them, often in the closest intercourse, +I have never received the least insult, but have +been well repaid in my own coin. What more +could be wished?</p> + + +<br /><a name="village" id="village"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/047.jpg"><img src="images/047-500.jpg" width="500" height="307" alt="" border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A BERBER VILLAGE IN THE ATLAS</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page47" id="page47"></a><span class="left">[page 47]</span> + + +<h3>IV</h3> + +<h2>THE BERBER RACE</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Every lion in his own forest roars."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Few who glibly use the word "Barbarian" pause +to consider whether the present meaning attached +to the name is justified or not, or whether the +people of Barbary are indeed the uncivilized, uncouth, +incapable lot their name would seem to imply +to-day. In fact, the popular ignorance regarding +the nearest point of Africa is even greater than of +the actually less known central portions, where the +white man penetrates with every risk. To declare +that the inhabitants of the four Barbary States—Morocco, +Algeria, Tunisia, and Tripoli—are not +"Blackamoors" at all, but white like ourselves, is +to astonish most folk at the outset.</p> +<p> +Of course in lands where the enslavement of +neighbouring negro races has been an institution for +a thousand years or more, there is a goodly proportion +of mulattoes; and among those whose lives have +been spent for generations in field work there are +many whose skins are bronzed and darkened, but +they are white by nature, nevertheless, and town +life soon restores the original hue. The student +class of Fez, drawn from all sections of the population +of Morocco, actually makes a boast of the pale<a name="page48" id="page48"></a><span class="left">[page 48]</span> +and pasty complexions attained by life amid the +shaded cloisters and covered streets of the intellectual +capital. Then again those who are sunburned +and bronzed are more of the Arab stock +than of the Berber.</p> +<p> +These Berbers, the original Barbarians, known +to the Romans and Greeks as such before the Arab +was heard of outside Arabia, are at once the +greatest and the most interesting nation, or rather +race, of the whole of Africa. Had such a coalition +as "the United States of North Africa" been +possible, Europe would long ago have learned to +fear and respect the title "Barbarian" too much to +put it to its present use. But the weak point of the +Berber race has been its lack of homogeneity; it +has ever been split up into independent states and +tribes, constantly indulging in internecine warfare. +This is a principle which has its origin in the relations +of the units whereof they are composed, of +whom it may be said as of the sons of Ishmael, that +every man's hand is against his neighbour. The +vendetta, a result of the <i>lex talionis</i> of "eye for eye +and tooth for tooth," flourishes still. No youth is +supposed to have attained full manhood until he has +slain his man, and excuses are seldom lacking. The +greatest insult that can be offered to an enemy is to +tell him that his father died in bed—even greater +than the imputation of evil character to his maternal +relatives.</p> +<p> +Some years ago I had in my service a lad of +about thirteen, one of several Reefians whom I had +about me for the practice of their language. Two +or three years later, on returning to Morocco, I met +him one day on the market.</p> + +<a name="page49" id="page49"></a><span class="left">[page 49]</span> +<p> +"I am so glad to see you," he said; "I want you +to help me buy some guns."</p> +<p> +"What for?"</p> +<p> +"Well, my father's dead; may God have mercy +on him!"</p> +<p> +"How did he die?"</p> +<p> +"God knows."</p> +<p> +"But what has that to do with the gun?"</p> +<p> +"You see, we must kill my three uncles, I and +my two brothers, and we want three guns."</p> +<p> +"What! Did they kill your father?"</p> +<p> +"God knows."</p> +<p> +"May He deliver you from such a deed. Come +round to the house for some food."</p> +<p> +"But I've got married since you saw me, and +expect an heir, yet they chaff me and call me a boy +because I have never yet killed a man."</p> +<p> +I asked an old servant who had been to England, +and seemed "almost a Christian," to try and dissuade +him, but only to meet with an appreciative, +"Well done! I always thought there was something +in that lad."</p> +<p> +So I tried a second, but with worse results, for +he patted the boy on the back with an assurance +that he could not dissuade him from so sacred a +duty; and at last I had to do what I could myself. +I extorted a promise that he would try and arrange +to take blood-money, but as he left the door his eye +fell on a broken walking-stick.</p> +<p> +"Oh, do give me that! It's no use to you, and +it <i>would</i> make such a nice prop for my gun, as I am +a very bad shot, and we mean to wait outside for +them in the dark."</p> +<p> +The sequel I have never heard.</p> + +<a name="page50" id="page50"></a><span class="left">[page 50]</span> +<p> +Up in those mountains every one lives in +fortified dwellings—big men in citadels, others in +wall-girt villages, all from time to time at war +with one another, or with the dwellers in some +neighbouring valley. Fighting is their element; as +soon as "the powder speaks" there are plenty to +answer, for every one carries his gun, and it is +wonderful how soon upon these barren hills an +armed crowd can muster. Their life is a hard fight +with Nature; all they ask is to be left alone to +fight it out among themselves. Even on the plains +among the Arabs and the mixed tribes described as +Moors, things are not much better, for there, too, +vendettas and cattle lifting keep them at loggerheads, +and there is nothing the clansmen like so +well as a raid on the Governor's kasbah or castle. +These kasbahs are great walled strongholds dotted +about the country; in times of peace surrounded +by groups of huts and tents, whose inhabitants take +refuge inside when their neighbours appear. The +high walls and towers are built of mud concrete, +often red like the Alhambra, the surface of which +stands the weather ill, but which, when kept in +repair, lasts for centuries.</p> +<p> +The Reefian Berbers are among the finest men +in Morocco—warlike and fierce, it is true, from long +habit and training; but they have many excellent +qualities, in addition to stalwart frames. "If you +don't want to be robbed," say they, "don't come +our way. We only care to see men who can fight, +with whom we may try our luck." They will come +and work for Europeans, forming friendships among +them, and if it were not for the suspicion of those +who have not done so, who always fear political<a name="page51" id="page51"></a><span class="left">[page 51]</span> +agents and spies, they would often be willing to +take Europeans through their land. I have more +than once been invited to go as a Moor. But the +ideas they get of Europeans in Tangier do not +predispose to friendship, and they will not allow +them to enter their territories if they can help it. +Only those who are in subjection to the Sultan +permit them to do so freely.</p> +<p> +The men are a hardy, sturdy race, wiry and lithe, +inured to toil and cold, fonder far of the gun and +sword than of the ploughshare, and steady riders of +an equally wiry race of mountain ponies. Their +dwellings are of stone and mud, often of two floors, +flat-topped, with rugged, projecting eaves, the roofs +being made of poles covered with the same material +as the walls, stamped and smoothed. These houses +are seldom whitewashed, and present a ruinous +appearance. Their ovens are domes about three +feet or less in height outside; they are heated by a +fire inside, then emptied, and the bread put in. +Similar ovens are employed in camp to bake for +the Court.</p> +<p> +Instead of that forced seclusion and concealment +of the features to which the followers of Islám elsewhere +doom their women, in these mountain homes +they enjoy almost as perfect liberty as their sisters +in Europe. I have been greatly struck with their +intelligence and generally superior appearance to +such Arab women as I have by chance been able +to see. Once, when supping with the son of a +powerful governor from above Fez, his mother, +wife, and wife's sister sat composedly to eat with +us, which could never have occurred in the dwelling +of a Moor. No attempt at covering their faces was<a name="page52" id="page52"></a><span class="left">[page 52]</span> +made, though male attendants were present at times, +but the little daughter shrieked at the sight of a +Nazarene. The grandmother, a fine, buxom dame, +could read and write—which would be an astonishing +accomplishment for a Moorish woman—and she +could converse better than many men who would in +this country pass for educated.</p> +<p> +The Berber dress has either borrowed from or +lent much to the Moor, but a few articles stamp +it wherever worn. One of these is a large black +cloak of goat's-hair, impervious to rain, made of +one piece, with no arm-holes. At the point of the +cowl hangs a black tassel, and right across the back, +about the level of the knees, runs an assagai-shaped +patch, often with a centre of red. It has been +opined that this remarkable feature represents the +All-seeing Eye, so often used as a charm, but from +the scanty information I could gather from the +people themselves, I believe that they have lost +sight of the original idea, though some have told +me that variations in the pattern mark clan distinctions. +I have ridden—when in the guise of a +native—for days together in one of these cloaks, +during pelting rain which never penetrated it. In +more remote districts, seldom visited by Europeans, +the garments are ruder far, entirely of undyed wool, +and unsewn, mere blankets with slits cut in the +centre for the head. This is, however, in every +respect, a great difference between the various +districts. The turban is little used by these people, +skull-caps being preferred, while their red cloth +gun-cases are commonly twisted turban-wise as +head-gear, though often a camel's-hair cord is deemed +sufficient protection for the head.</p> + +<a name="page53" id="page53"></a><span class="left">[page 53]</span> +<p> +Every successive ruler of North Africa has had +to do with the problem of subduing the Berbers +and has failed. In the wars between Rome and +Carthage it was among her sturdy Berber soldiers +that the southern rival of the great queen city of +the world found actual sinews enough to hold the +Roman legions so long at bay, and often to overcome +her vaunted cohorts and carry the war across +into Europe. Where else did Rome find so near +a match, and what wars cost her more than did +those of Africa? Carthage indeed has fallen, and +from her once famed Byrsa the writer has been +able to count on his fingers the local remains of her +greatness, yet the people who made her what she +was remain—the Berbers of Tunisia. The Phœnician +settlers, though bringing with them wealth +and learning and arts, could never have done alone +what they did without the hardy fighting men +supplied by the hills around.</p> +<p> +When Rome herself had fallen, and the fames +of Carthage and Utica were forgotten, there came +across North Africa a very different race from those +who had preceded them, the desert Arabs, introducing +the creed of Islám. In the course of a +century or two, North Africa became Mohammedan, +pagan and Christian institutions being swept away +before that onward wave. It is not probable that +at any time Christianity had any real hold upon +the Berbers themselves, and Islám itself sits lightly +on their easy consciences.</p> +<p> +The Arabs had for the moment solved the +Berber problem. They were the amalgam which, +by coalescing with the scattered factions of their +race, had bound them up together and had formed<a name="page54" id="page54"></a><span class="left">[page 54]</span> +for once a nation of them. Thus it was that the +Muslim armies obtained force to carry all before +them, and thus was provided the new blood and the +active temper to which alone are due the conquest +of Spain, and subsequent achievements there. The +popular description of the Mohammedan rulers of +Spain as "Saracens"—Easterners—is as erroneous +as the supposition that they were Arabs. The +people who conquered Spain were Berbers, although +their leaders often adopted Arabic names with an +Arab religion and Arab culture. The Arabic +language, although official, was by no means +general, nor is it otherwise to-day. The men who +fought and the men who ruled were Berbers out +and out, though the latter were often the sons of +Arab fathers or mothers, and the great religious +chiefs were purely Arab on the father's side at +least, the majority claiming descent from Mohammed +himself, and as such forming a class apart of shareefs +or nobles.</p> +<p> +Though nominal Mohammedans, and in Morocco +acknowledging the religious supremacy of the reigning +shareefian family, the Moorish Berbers still +retain a semi-independence. The mountains of the +Atlas chain have always been their home and refuge, +where the plainsmen find it difficult and dangerous +to follow them. The history of the conquest of +Algeria and Tunisia by the French has shown +that they are no mean opponents even to modern +weapons and modern warfare. The Kabyles,<a name="IV1r" id="IV1r"></a><a href="#IV1"><sup>*</sup></a> +as they are erroneously styled in those countries,<a name="page55" id="page55"></a><span class="left">[page 55]</span> +have still to be kept in check by the fear of +arms, and their prowess no one disputes. These +are the people the French propose to subdue by +"pacific penetration." The awe with which these +mountaineers have inspired the plainsmen and +townsfolk is remarkable; as good an illustration of +it as I know was the effect produced on a Moor by +my explanation that a Highland friend to whom I +had introduced him was not an Englishman, but +what I might call a "British Berber." The man +was absolutely awe-struck.</p> +<p> +Separated from the Arab as well as from the +European by a totally distinct, unwritten language, +with numerous dialects, these people still exist as a +mine of raw material, full of possibilities. In habits +and style of life they may be considered uncivilized +even in contrast to the mingled dwellers on the +lowlands; but they are far from being savages. +Their stalwart frames and sturdy independence fit +them for anything, although the latter quality keeps +them aloof, and has so far prevented intercourse +with the outside world.</p> +<p> +Many have their own pet theories as to the +origin of the Berbers and their language, not a +few believing them to have once been altogether +Christians, while others, following native authors, +attribute to them Canaanitish ancestors, and ethnologists +dispute as to the branch of Noah's family +in which to class them. It is more than probable +that they are one with the ancient Egyptians, who, +at least, were no barbarians, if Berbers. But all +are agreed that some of the finest stocks of southern +and western Europe are of kindred origin, if not<a name="page56" id="page56"></a><span class="left">[page 56]</span> +identical with them, and even if this be uncertain, +enough has been said to show that they have +played no unimportant part in European history, +though it has ever been their lot to play behind the +scenes—scene-shifters rather than actors.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="IV1" id="IV1"></a> +<a href="#IV1r">*</a> <i>I.e.</i> "Provincials," so misnamed from Kabîlah (<i>pl.</i> Kabáïl), a +province.</p> + + +<br /><a name="tent" id="tent"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/057.jpg"><img src="images/057-500.jpg" width="500" height="309" alt="AN ARAB TENT IN MOROCCO." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i><br /><br /> +<b>AN ARAB TENT IN MOROCCO.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page57" id="page57"></a><span class="left">[page 57]</span> + + +<h3>V</h3> + +<h2>THE WANDERING ARAB</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"I am loving, not lustful."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + + +<p> +Some strange fascination attaches itself to the simple +nomad life of the Arab, in whatever country he be +found, and here, in the far west of his peregrinations, +he is encountered living almost in the same +style as on the other side of Suez; his only roof +a cloth, his country the wide world. Sometimes the +tents are arranged as many as thirty or more in a +circle, and at other times they are grouped hap-hazard, +intermingled with round huts of thatch, and +oblong ones of sun-dried bricks, thatched also; but +in the latter cases the occupants are unlikely to +be pure Arabs, for that race seldom so nearly approaches +to settling anywhere. When the tents +are arranged in a circle, the animals are generally +picketed in the centre, but more often some are to +be found sharing the homes of their owners.</p> +<p> +The tent itself is of an oval shape, with a wooden +ridge on two poles across the middle third of the +centre, from front to back, with a couple of strong +bands of the same material as the tent fixed on +either side, whence cords lead to pegs in the +ground, passing over two low stakes leaning outwards. +A rude camel's hair canvas is stretched<a name="page58" id="page58"></a><span class="left">[page 58]</span> +over this frame, being kept up at the edges by more +leaning stakes, and fastened by cords to pegs all +round. The door space is left on the side which +faces the centre of the encampment, and the walls +or "curtains" are formed of high thistles lashed +together in sheaves. Surrounding the tent is a +yard, a simple bog in winter, the boundary of which +is a ring formed by bundles of prickly branches, +which compose a really formidable barrier, being +too much for a jump, and too tenacious to one +another and to visitors for penetration. The break +left for an entrance is stopped at night by another +bundle which makes the circle complete.</p> +<p> +The interior of the tent is often more or less +divided by the pole supporting the roof, and by a +pile of household goods, such as they are. Sometimes +a rude loom is fastened to the poles, and at +it a woman sits working on the floor. The framework—made +of canes—is kept in place by rigging +to pegs in the ground. The woman's hand is her +only shuttle, and she threads the wool through with +her fingers, a span at a time, afterwards knocking +it down tightly into place with a heavy wrought-iron +comb about two inches wide, with a dozen +prongs. She seems but half-dressed, and makes no +effort to conceal either face or breast, as a filthy +child lies feeding in her lap. Her seat is a piece of +matting, but the principal covering for the floor of +trodden mud is a layer of palmetto leaves. Round +the "walls" are several hens with chicks nestling +under their wings, and on one side a donkey is +tethered, while a calf sports at large.</p> +<p> +The furniture of this humble dwelling consists +of two or three large, upright, mud-plastered,<a name="page59" id="page59"></a><span class="left">[page 59]</span> +split-cane baskets, containing corn, partially sunk in +the ground, and a few dirty bags. On one side is the +mill, a couple of stones about eighteen inches across, +the upper one convex, with a handle at one side. +Three stones above a small hole in the ground serve +as a cooking-range, while the fuel is abundant in +the form of sun-dried thistles and other weeds, or +palmetto leaves and sticks. Fire is obtained by +borrowing from one another, but should it happen +that no one in the encampment had any, the +laborious operation of lighting dry straw from the +flash in the pan of a flint-lock would have to be +performed. To light the rude lamp—merely a bit +of cotton protruding from anything with olive-oil +in it—it is necessary to blow some smoking straw +or weed till it bursts into a flame.</p> +<p> +Little else except the omnipresent dirt is to be +found in the average Arab tent. A tin or two for +cooking operations, a large earthen water-jar, and a +pan or two to match, in which the butter-milk is kept, +a sieve for the flour, and a few rough baskets, usually +complete the list, and all are remarkable only for +the prevailing grime. Making a virtue of necessity, +the Arab prefers sour milk to fresh, for with this +almost total lack of cleanliness, no milk would long +keep sweet. Their food is of the simplest, chiefly +the flour of wheat, barley, or Indian millet prepared +in various ways, for the most part made up into flat, +heavy cakes of bread, or as kesk'soo. Milk, from +which butter is made direct by tossing it in a goat-skin +turned inside out, eggs and fowls form the chief +animal food, butcher's meat being but seldom indulged +in. Vegetables do not enter into their diet, +as they have no gardens, and beyond possessing<a name="page60" id="page60"></a><span class="left">[page 60]</span> +flocks and herds, those Arabs met with in Barbary +are wretchedly poor and miserably squalid. The +patriarchal display of Arabia is here unknown.</p> +<p> +Of children and dogs there is no lack. Both +abound, and wallow in the mud together. Often +the latter seem to have the better time of it. Two +families by one father will sometimes share one tent +between them, but generally each "household" is +distinct, though all sleep together in the one apartment +of their abode. As one approaches a dûár, +or encampment, an early warning is given by +the hungry dogs, and soon the half-clad children +rush out to see who comes, followed leisurely by +their elders. Hospitality has ever been an Arab +trait, and these poor creatures, in their humble way, +sustain the best traditions of their race. A native +visitor of their own class is entertained and fed +by the first he comes across, while the foreign +traveller or native of means with his own tent is +accommodated on the rubbish in the midst of the +encampment, and can purchase all he wishes—all +that they have—for a trifle, though sometimes they +turn disagreeable and "pile it on." A present of +milk and eggs, perhaps fowls, may be brought, for +which, however, a <i>quid pro quo</i> is expected.</p> +<p> +Luxuries they have not. Whatever they need +to do in the way of shopping, is done at the nearest +market once a week, and nothing but the produce +already mentioned is to be obtained from them. In +the evenings they stuff themselves to repletion, if +they can afford it, with a wholesome dish of prepared +barley or wheat meal, sometimes crowned +with beans; then, after a gossip round the crackling +fire, or, on state occasions, three cups of syrupy<a name="page61" id="page61"></a><span class="left">[page 61]</span> +green tea apiece, they roll themselves in their long +blankets and sleep on the ground.</p> +<p> +The first blush of dawn sees them stirring, and +soon all is life and excitement. The men go off to +their various labours, as do many of the stronger +women, while the remainder attend to their scanty +household duties, later on basking in the sun. But +the moment the stranger arrives the scene changes, +and the incessant din of dogs, hags and babies commences, +to which the visitor is doomed till late at +night, with the addition then of neighs and brays +and occasional cock-crowing.</p> +<p> +It never seemed to me that these poor folk +enjoyed life, but rather that they took things sadly. +How could it be otherwise? No security of life +and property tempts them to make a show of +wealth; on the contrary, they bury what little they +may save, if any, and lead lives of misery for fear +of tempting the authorities. Their work is hard; +their comforts are few. The wild wind howls +through their humble dwellings, and the rain +splashes in at the door. In sickness, for lack of +medical skill, they lie and perish. In health their +only pleasures are animal. Their women, once +they are past the prime of life, which means soon +after thirty with this desert race, go unveiled, and +work often harder than the men, carrying burdens, +binding sheaves, or even perhaps helping a donkey +to haul a plough. Female features are never so +jealously guarded here as in the towns.</p> +<p> +Yet they are a jolly, good-tempered, simple folk. +Often have I spent a merry evening round the fire +with them, squatted on a bit of matting, telling of +the wonders of "That Country," the name which<a name="page62" id="page62"></a><span class="left">[page 62]</span> +alternates in their vocabulary with "Nazarene +Land," as descriptive of all the world but Morocco +and such portions of North Africa or Arabia as +they may have heard of. Many an honest laugh +have we enjoyed over their wordy tales, or perchance +some witty sally; but in my heart I have +pitied these down-trodden people in their ignorance +and want. Home they do not know. When the +pasture in Shechem is short, they remove to +Dothan; next month they may be somewhere +else. But they are always ready to share their +scanty portion with the wayfarer, wherever they +are.</p> +<p> +When the time comes for changing quarters +these wanderers find the move but little trouble. +Their few belongings are soon collected and packed, +and the tent itself made ready for transportation. +Their animals are got together, and ere long the +cavalcade is on the road. Often one poor beast +will carry a fair proportion of the family—the +mother and a child or two, for instance—in addition +to a load of household goods, and bundles of fowls +slung by their feet. At the side men and boys +drive the flocks and herds, while as often as not +the elder women-folk take a full share in the porterage +of their property. To meet such a caravan is +to feel one's self transported to Bible times, and to +fancy Jacob going home from Padan Aram.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page63" id="page63"></a><span class="left">[page 63]</span> + +<h3>VI</h3> + +<h2>CITY LIFE</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Seek the neighbour before the house, +And the companion before the road."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Few countries afford a better insight into typical +Mohammedan life, or boast a more primitive civilization, +than Morocco, preserved as it has been so +long from western contamination. The patriarchal +system, rendered more or less familiar to us by our +Bibles, still exists in the homes of its people, especially +those of the country-side; but Moorish city +life is no less interesting or instructive. If an +Englishman's house is his castle, the Mohammedan's +house is a prison—not for himself, but +for his women. Here is the radical difference +between their life and ours. No one who has +not mixed intimately with the people as one of +themselves, lodging in their houses and holding +constant intercourse with them, can form an adequate +idea of the lack of home feeling, even in the +happiest families.</p> +<p> +The moment you enter a town, however, the +main facts are brought vividly before you on every +hand. You pass along a narrow thoroughfare—maybe +six, maybe sixteen feet in width—bounded +by almost blank walls, in some towns whitewashed,<a name="page64" id="page64"></a><span class="left">[page 64]</span> +in others bare mud, in which are no windows, +lest their inmates might see or be seen. Even +above the roofs of the majority of two-storied houses +(for very many in the East consist but of ground +floor), the wall is continued to form a parapet round +the terrace. If you meet a woman in the street, +she is enveloped from head to ankle in close disguise, +with only a peep-hole for one or both eyes, +unless too ugly and withered for such precautions +to be needful.</p> +<p> +You arrive at the door of your friend's abode, +a huge massive barrier painted brown or green—if +not left entirely uncoloured—and studded all over +with nails. A very prison entrance it appears, +for the only other breaks in the wall above are +slits for ventilation, all placed so high in the room +as to be out of reach. In the warmer parts of the +country you would see latticed boxes protruding +from the walls—meshrabîyahs or drinking-places—shelves +on which porous earthen jars may be +placed to catch the slightest breeze, that the God-sent +beverage to which Mohammedans are wisely +restricted may be at all times cool. You are terrified, +if a stranger, by the resonance of this great +door, as you let the huge iron ring which serves +as knocker fall on the miniature anvil beneath it. +Presently your scattered thoughts are recalled by +a chirping voice from within—</p> +<p> +"Who's that?"</p> +<p> +You recognize the tones as those of a tiny +negress slave, mayhap a dozen years of age, and +as you give your name you hear a patter of bare +feet on the tiles within, but if you are a male, +you are left standing out in the street. In a few<a name="page65" id="page65"></a><span class="left">[page 65]</span> +moments the latch of the inner door is sedately +lifted, and with measured tread you hear the +slippers of your friend advancing.</p> +<p> +"Is that So-and-so?" he asks, pausing on the +other side of the door.</p> +<p> +"It is, my Lord."</p> +<p> +"Welcome, then."</p> +<p> +The heavy bolt is drawn, and the door swings +on its hinges during a volley and counter-volley +of inquiries, congratulations, and thanks to God, +accompanied by the most graceful bows, the mutual +touching and kissing of finger-tips, and the placing +of hands on hearts. As these exercises slacken, +your host advances to the inner door, and possibly +disappears through it, closing it carefully behind +him. You hear his stentorian voice commanding, +"<i>Amel trek!</i>"—"Make way!"—and this is followed +by a scuffle of feet which tells you he is +being obeyed. Not a female form will be in sight +by the time your host returns to lead you in by +the hand with a thousand welcomes, entreating you +to make yourself at home.</p> +<p> +The passage is constructed with a double turn, +so that you could not look, if you would, from the +roadway into the courtyard which you now enter. +If one of the better-class houses, the floor will be +paved with marble or glazed mosaics, and in the +centre will stand a bubbling fountain. Round the +sides is a colonnade supporting the first-floor landing, +reached by a narrow stairway in the corner. +Above is the deep-blue sky, obscured, perhaps, by +the grateful shade of fig or orange boughs, or a +vine on a trellis, under which the people live. The +walls, if not tiled, are whitewashed, and often<a name="page66" id="page66"></a><span class="left">[page 66]</span> +beautifully decorated in plaster mauresques. In +the centre of three of the four sides are huge horseshoe-arched +doorways, two of which will probably +be closed by cotton curtains. These suffice to +ensure the strictest privacy within, as no one would +dream of approaching within a couple of yards of a +room with the curtain down, till leave had been +asked and obtained.</p> +<p> +You are led into the remaining room, the guest-chamber, +and the curtain over the entrance is lowered. +You may not now venture to rise from your +seat on the mattress facing the door till the women +whom you hear emerging from their retreats have +been admonished to withdraw again. The long, +narrow apartment, some eight feet by twenty, in +which you find yourself has a double bed at each +end, for it is sleeping-room and sitting-room combined, +as in Barbary no distinction is known between +the two. However long you may remain, you see no +female face but that of the cheery slave-girl, who +kisses your hand so demurely as she enters with +refreshments.</p> +<p> +Thus the husband receives his friends—perforce +all males unless he be "on the spree,"—in +apartments from which all women-folk are banished. +Likewise the ladies of the establishment hold their +festive gatherings apart. Most Moors, however, +are too strict to allow much visiting among their +women, especially if they be wealthy and have a +good complexion, when they are very closely confined, +except when allowed to visit the bath at +certain hours set apart for the fair sex, or on +Fridays to lay myrtle branches on the tombs of +saints and departed relatives. Most of the ladies'<a name="page67" id="page67"></a><span class="left">[page 67]</span> +calls are roof-to-roof visitations, and very nimble +they are in getting over the low partition walls, +even dragging a ladder up and down with them if +there are high ones to be crossed. The reason is +that the roofs, or rather terraces, are especially +reserved for women-folk, and men are not even +allowed to go up except to do repairs, when the +neighbouring houses are duly warned; it is illegal +to have a window overlooking another's roof. +David's temptation doubtless arose from his exercise +of a Royal exemption from this all-prevailing +custom.</p> +<p> +But for their exceedingly substantial build, the +Moorish women in the streets might pass for ghosts, +for with the exception of their red Morocco slippers, +their costume is white—wool-white. A long and +heavy blanket of coarse homespun effectually conceals +all features but the eyes, which are touched +up with antimony on the lids, and are sufficiently +expressive. Sometimes a wide-brimmed straw hat +is jauntily clapped on; but here ends the plate of +Moorish out-door fashions. In-doors all is colour, +light and glitter.</p> +<p> +In matters of colour and flowing robes the men +are not far behind, and they make up abroad for +what they lack at home. No garment is more +artistic, and no drapery more graceful, than that in +which the wealthy Moor takes his daily airing, +either on foot or on mule back. Beneath a gauze-like +woollen toga—relic of ancient art—glimpses of +luscious hue are caught—crimson and purple; deep +greens and "afternoon sun colour" (the native name +for a rich orange); salmons, and pale, clear blues. A +dark-blue cloak, when it is cold, negligently but<a name="page68" id="page68"></a><span class="left">[page 68]</span> +gracefully thrown across the shoulders, or a blue-green +prayer-carpet folded beneath the arm, helps +to set off the whole.</p> +<p> +<i>Chez lui</i> our friend of the flowing garments is +a king, with slaves to wait upon him, wives to obey +him, and servants to fear his wrath. But his everyday +reception-room is the lobby of his stables, +where he sits behind the door in rather shabby +garments attending to business matters, unless he is +a merchant or shopkeeper, when his store serves +as office instead.</p> +<p> +If all that the Teuton considers essential to +home-life is really a <i>sine quâ non</i>, then Orientals +have no home-life. That is our way of looking +upon it, judging in the most natural way, by our +own standards. The Eastern, from his point of +view, forms an equally poor idea of the customs +which familiarity has rendered most dear to us. It +is as difficult for us to set aside prejudice and to consider +his systems impartially, as for him to do so +with regard to our peculiar style. There are but +two criteria by which the various forms of civilization +so far developed by man may be fairly judged. +The first is the suitability of any given form to the +surroundings and exterior conditions of life of the +nation adopting it, and the second is the moral or +social effect on the community at large.</p> +<p> +Under the first head the unbiassed student of +mankind will approve in the main of most systems +adopted by peoples who have attained that artificiality +which we call civilization. An exchange +among Westerners of their time-honoured habits +for those of the East would not be less beneficial or +more incongruous than a corresponding exchange<a name="page69" id="page69"></a><span class="left">[page 69]</span> +on the part of orientals. Those who are ignorant +of life towards the sunrise commonly suppose that +they can confer no greater benefit upon the natives of +these climes than chairs, top-hats, and so on. Hardly +could they be more mistaken. The Easterner despises +the man who cannot eat his dinner without +a fork or other implement, and who cannot tuck his +legs beneath him, infinitely more than ill-informed +Westerners despise petticoated men and shrouded +women. Under the second head, however, a very +different issue is reached, and one which involves +not only social, but religious life, and consequently +the creed on which this last is based. It is in this +that Moorish civilization fails.</p> + + <hr class="short" /> +<p> +But list! what is that weird, low sound which +strikes upon our ear and interrupts our musings? +It is the call to prayer. For the fifth time to-day +that cry is sounding—a warning to the faithful that +the hour for evening devotions has come. See! +yonder Moor has heard it too, and is already +spreading his felt on the ground for the performance +of his nightly orisons. Standing Mekka-wards, +and bowing to the ground, he goes through +the set forms used throughout the Mohammedan +world. The majority satisfy their consciences by +working off the whole five sets at once. But that +cry! I hear it still; as one voice fails another +carries on the strain in ever varying cadence, each +repeating it to the four quarters of the heavens.</p> +<p> +It was yet early in the morning when the first +call of the day burst on the stilly air; the sun had +not then risen o'er the hill tops, nor had his first, +soft rays dispelled the shadows of the night. Only<a name="page70" id="page70"></a><span class="left">[page 70]</span> +the rustling of the wind was heard as it died among +the tree tops—that wind which was a gale last +night. The hurried tread of the night guard going +on his last—perhaps his only—round before returning +home, had awakened me from dreaming +slumbers, and I was about to doze away into that +sweetest of sleeps, the morning nap, when the +distant cry broke forth. Pitched in a high, clear +key, the Muslim confession of faith was heard; +"Lá iláha il' Al-lah; wa Mohammed er-rasool +Al-l-a-h!" Could ever bell send thrill like that? +I wot not.</p> + + +<br /><a name="roofs" id="roofs"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/071.jpg"><img src="images/071-500.jpg" width="499" height="307" alt="ROOFS OF TANGIER FROM THE BRITISH CONSULATE, SHOWING FLAGSTAFFS OF FOREIGN LEGATIONS." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>ROOFS OF TANGIER FROM THE BRITISH CONSULATE, SHOWING <br />FLAGSTAFFS OF FOREIGN LEGATIONS.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page71" id="page71"></a><span class="left">[page 71]</span> + +<h3>VII</h3> + +<h2>THE WOMEN-FOLK</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Teach not thy daughter letters; let her not live on the roof."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Of no country in the world can it more truly be +said than of the Moorish Empire that the social +condition of the people may be measured by that +of its women. Holding its women in absolute +subjection, the Moorish nation is itself held in subjection, +morally, politically, socially. The proverb +heading this chapter, implying that women should +not enjoy the least education or liberty, expresses +the universal treatment of the weaker sex among +Mohammedans. It is the subservient position of +women which strikes the visitor from Europe more +than all the oriental strangeness of the local customs +or the local art and colour. Advocates of the +restriction of the rights of women in our own land, +and of the retention of disabilities unknown to +men, who fail to recognize the justice and invariability +of the principle of absolute equality in rights +and liberty between the sexes, should investigate +the state of things existing in Morocco, where the +natural results of a fallacious principle have had free +course.</p> +<p> +No welcome awaits the infant daughter, and few +care to bear the evil news to the father, who will<a name="page72" id="page72"></a><span class="left">[page 72]</span> +sometimes be left uninformed as to the sex of his +child till the time comes to name her. It is rarely +that girls are taught to read, or even to understand +the rudiments of their religious system. Here and +there a father who ranks in Morocco as scholarly, +takes the trouble to teach his children at home, +including his daughters in the class, but this is very +seldom the case. Only those women succeed in +obtaining even an average education in whom a +thirst for knowledge is combined with opportunities +in every way exceptional. In the country considerably +more liberty is permitted than in the +towns, and the condition of the Berber women has +already been noted.</p> +<p> +Nevertheless, in certain circumstances, women +attain a power quite abnormal under such conditions, +usually the result of natural astuteness, +combined—at the outset, at least—with a reasonable +share of good looks, for when a woman is fairly +astute she is a match for a man anywhere. A +Mohammedan woman's place in life depends entirely +on her personal attractions. If she lacks +good looks, or is thin—which in Barbary, as in +other Muslim countries, amounts to much the same +thing—her future is practically hopeless. The +chances being less—almost <i>nil</i>—of getting her +easily off their hands by marriage, the parents feel +they must make the best they can of her by setting +her to work about the house, and she becomes a +general drudge. If the home is a wealthy one, she +may be relieved from this lot, and steadily ply her +needle at minutely fine silk embroidery, or deck and +paint herself in style, but, despised by her more +fortunate sisters, she is even then hardly better off.</p> + +<a name="page73" id="page73"></a><span class="left">[page 73]</span> +<p> +If, on the other hand, a daughter is the beauty +of the family, every one pays court to her in some +degree, for there is no telling to what she may +arrive. Perhaps, in Morocco, she is even thought +good enough for the Sultan—plump, clear-skinned, +bright-eyed. Could she but get a place in the Royal +hareem, it would be in the hands of God to make her +the mother of the coming sultan. But good looks +alone will not suffice to take her there. Influence—a +word translatable in the Orient by a shorter +one, cash—must be brought to bear. The interest +of a wazeer or two must be secured, and finally an +interview must take place with one of the "wise +women" who are in charge of the Imperial ladies. +She, too, must be convinced by the eloquence of +dollars, that His Majesty could not find another so +graceful a creature in all his dominions.</p> +<p> +When permission is given to send her to Court, +what joy there is, what bedecking, what congratulation! +At last she is taken away with a palpitating +heart, as she thinks of the possibilities before her, +bundled up in her blanket and mounted on an +ambling mule under strictest guard. On arrival +at her new home her very beauty will make +enemies, especially among those who have been +there longest, and who feel their chances grow +less as each new-comer appears. Perhaps one +Friday the Sultan notices her as he walks in his +grounds in the afternoon, and taking a fancy to +her, decides to make her his wife. At once all +jealousies are hidden, and each vies with the other +to render her service, and assist the preparations +for the coming event. For a while she will remain +supreme—a very queen indeed—but only till<a name="page74" id="page74"></a><span class="left">[page 74]</span> +her place is taken by another. If she has sons her +chances are better; but unless she maintains her +influence over her husband till her offspring are old +enough to find a lasting place in his affections, she +will probably one day be despatched to Tafilált, +beyond the Atlas by the Sáharah, whence come +those luscious dates. There every other man is a +direct descendant of some Moorish king, as for +centuries it has served as a sort of overflow for the +prolific Royal house.</p> +<p> +As Islám knows no right of primogeniture, each +sultan appoints his heir; so each wife strives to +obtain this favour for her son, and often enough +the story of Ishmael and Isaac repeats itself among +these reputed descendants of Hagar. The usual +way is for the pet son to be placed in some command, +even before really able to discharge the +duties of the post, which shall secure him supreme +control on his father's death. The treasury and the +army are the two great means to this end. Those +possible rivals who have not been sent away to +Tafilált are as often as not imprisoned or put +to death on some slight charge, as used to be the +custom in England a few hundred years ago.</p> +<p> +This method of bequeathing rights which do +not come under the strict scale for the division of +property contained in the Korán is not confined +to Royalty. It applies also to religious sanctity. +An instance is that of the late Shareef, or Noble, +of Wazzán, a feudal "saint" of great influence. +His father, on his deathbed, appointed as successor +to his title, his holiness, and the estates connected +therewith, the son who should be found playing with +a certain stick, a common toy of his favourite. But<a name="page75" id="page75"></a><span class="left">[page 75]</span> +a black woman by whom he had a son was present, +and ran out to place the stick in the hands of her +own child, who thus inherited his father's honours. +Some of the queens of Morocco have arrived at such +power through their influence over their husbands +that they have virtually ruled the Empire.</p> +<p> +Supposing, however, that the damsel who has at +last found admittance to the hareem does not, after +all, prove attractive to her lord, she will in all +probability be sent away to make room for some +one else. She will be bestowed upon some country +governor when he comes to Court. Sometimes +it is an especially astute one who is thus transferred, +that she may thereafter serve as a spy on +his actions.</p> +<p> +Though those before whom lies such a career as +has been described will be comparatively few, none +who can be considered beautiful are without their +chances, however poor. Many well-to-do men prefer +a poor wife to a rich one, because they can divorce +her when tired of her without incurring the enmity +of powerful relatives. Marriage is enjoined upon +every Muslim as a religious duty, and, if able to +afford it, he usually takes to himself his first wife +before he is out of his teens. He is relieved of the +choice of a partner which troubles some of us so +much, for the ladies of his family undertake this for +him: if they do not happen to know of a likely +individual they employ a professional go-between, a +woman who follows also the callings of pedlar and +scandal-monger. It is the duty of this personage, +on receipt of a present from his friends, to sing his +praises and those of his family in the house of some +beautiful girl, whose friends are thereby induced<a name="page76" id="page76"></a><span class="left">[page 76]</span> +to give her a present to go and do likewise on +their behalf in the house of so promising a youth. +Personal negotiations will then probably take place +between the lady friends, and all things proving +satisfactory, the fathers or brothers of the might-be +pair discuss the dowry and marriage-settlement +from a strictly business point of view.</p> +<p> +At this stage the bride-elect will perhaps be +thought not fat enough, and will have to submit to +a course of stuffing. This consists in swallowing after +each full meal a few small sausage-shaped boluses +of flour, honey and butter, flavoured with anise-seed +or something similar. A few months of this +treatment give a marvellous rotundity to the figure, +thus greatly increasing her charms in the native eye. +But of these the bridegroom will see nothing, if not +surreptitiously, till after the wedding, when she is +brought to his house.</p> +<p> +By that time formal documents of marriage will +have been drawn up, and signed by notaries before +the kádi or judge, setting forth the contract—with +nothing in it about love or honour,—detailing every +article which the wife brings with her, including in +many instances a considerable portion of the household +utensils. Notwithstanding all this, she may be +divorced by her husband simply saying, "I divorce +thee!" and though she may claim the return of all +she brought, she has no option but to go home +again. He may repent and take her back a first +and a second time, but after he has put her away +three times he may not marry her again till after +she has been wedded to some one else and divorced. +Theoretically she may get a divorce from him, but +practically this is a matter of great difficulty.</p> + +<a name="page77" id="page77"></a><span class="left">[page 77]</span> +<p> +The legal expression employed for the nuptial +tie is one which conveys the idea of purchasing a +field, to be put to what use the owner will, according +him complete control. This idea is borne out to the +full, and henceforward the woman lives for her lord, +with no thought of independence or self-assertion. +If he is poor, all work too hard for him that is not +considered unwomanly falls to her share, hewing of +wood and drawing of water, grinding of corn and +making of bread, weaving and washing; but, strange +to us, little sewing. When decidedly <i>passée</i>, she +saves him a donkey in carrying wood and charcoal +and grass to market, often bent nearly double under +a load which she cannot lift, which has to be bound +on her back. Her feet are bare, but her sturdy +legs are at times encased in leather to ward off the +wayside thorns. No longer jealously covered, she +and her unmarried daughters trudge for many weary +miles at dawn, her decidedly better-off half and a son +or two riding the family mule. From this it is but +a short step to helping the cow or donkey draw the +plough, and this step is sometimes taken.</p> +<p> +Until a woman's good looks have quite disappeared, +which generally occurs about the time +they become grandmothers—say thirty,—intercourse +of any sort with men other than her relatives of the +first degree is strictly prohibited, and no one dare +salute a woman in the street, even if her attendant +or mount shows her to be a privileged relative. +The slightest recognition of a man out-of-doors—or +indeed anywhere—would be to proclaim herself +one of that degraded outcaste class as common in +Moorish towns as in Europe.</p> +<p> +Of companionship in wedlock the Moor has no<a name="page78" id="page78"></a><span class="left">[page 78]</span> +conception, and his ideas of love are those of lust. +Though matrimony is considered by the Muslim +doctors as "half of Islám," its value in their eyes is +purely as a legalization of license by the substitution +of polygamy for polyandry. Slavishly bound to the +observance of wearisome customs, immured in a +windowless house with only the roof for a promenade, +seldom permitted outside the door, and then +most carefully wrapped in a blanket till quite unrecognizable, +the life of a Moorish woman, from the +time she has first been caught admiring herself in a +mirror, is that of a bird encaged. Lest she might +grow content with such a lot, she has before her +eyes from infancy the jealousies and rivalries of her +father's wives and concubines, and is early initiated +into the disgusting and unutterable practices employed +to gain the favour of their lord. Her one +thought from childhood is man, and distance lends +enchantment. A word, the interchange of a look, +with a man is sought for by the Moorish maiden +more than are the sighs and glances of a coy brunette +by a Spaniard. Nothing short of the unexpurgated +Arabian Nights' Entertainments can convey an adequate +idea of what goes on within those whited +sepulchres, the broad, blank walls of Moorish towns. +A word with the mason who comes to repair the +roof, or even a peep at the men at work on the +building over the way, on whose account the roof +promenade is forbidden, is eagerly related and expatiated +on. In short, all the training a Moorish +woman receives is sensual, a training which of itself +necessitates most rigorous, though often unavailing, +seclusion.</p> +<p> +Both in town and country intrigues are common,<a name="page79" id="page79"></a><span class="left">[page 79]</span> +but intrigues which have not even the excuse of the +blindness of love, whose only motive is animal +passion. The husband who, on returning home, +finds a pair of red slippers before the door of his +wife's apartment, is bound to understand thereby +that somebody else's wife or daughter is within, and +he dare not approach. If he has suspicions, all he +can do is to bide his time and follow the visitor +home, should the route lie through the streets, or +despatch a faithful slave-girl or jealous concubine +on a like errand, should the way selected be over +the roof-tops. In the country, under a very different +set of conventionalities, much the same takes place.</p> +<p> +In a land where woman holds the degraded +position which she does under Islám, such family +circles as the Briton loves can never exist. The +foundation of the home system is love, which +seldom links the members of these families, most +seldom of all man and wife. Anything else is not +to be expected when they meet for the first time +on their wedding night. To begin with, no one's +pleasure is studied save that of the despotic master +of the house. All the inmates, from the poor imprisoned +wives down to the lively slave-girl who +opens the door, all are there to serve his pleasure, +and woe betide those who fail.</p> +<p> +The first wife may have a fairly happy time of it +for a season, if her looks are good, and her ways +pleasing, but when a second usurps her place, she +is generally cast aside as a useless piece of furniture, +unless set to do servile work. Although four +legal wives are allowed by the Korán, it is only +among the rich that so many are found, on account +of the expense of their maintenance in appropriate<a name="page80" id="page80"></a><span class="left">[page 80]</span> +style. The facility of divorce renders it much +cheaper to change from time to time, and slaves +are more economical. To the number of such +women that a man may keep no limit is set; he +may have "as many as his right hand can possess." +Then, too, these do the work of the house, and if +they bear their master no children, they may be +sold like any other chattels.</p> +<p> +The consequence of such a system is that she +reigns who for the time stands highest in her lord's +favour, so that the strife and jealousies which disturb +the peace of the household are continual. This +rivalry is naturally inherited by the children, who +side with their several mothers, which is especially +the case with the boys. Very often the legal wife +has no children, or only daughters, while quite a +little troop of step-children play about her house. +In these cases it is not uncommon for at least the +best-looking of these youngsters to be taught to +call her "mother," and their real parent "Dadda +M'barkah," or whatever her name may be. The +offspring of wives and bondwomen stand on an +equal footing before the law, in which Islám is still +ahead of us.</p> +<p> +Such is the sad lot of women in Morocco. +Religion itself being all but denied them in practice, +whatever precept provides, it is with blank +astonishment that the majority of them hear the +message of those noble foreign sisters of theirs who +have devoted their lives to showing them a better +way. The greatest difficulty is experienced in +arousing in them any sense of individuality, any +feeling of personal responsibility, or any aspiration +after good. They are so accustomed to be treated +<a name="page81" id="page81"></a><span class="left">[page 81]</span> +as cattle, that their higher powers are altogether +dormant, all possibilities of character repressed. +The welfare of their souls is supposed to be assured +by union with a Muslim, and few know even how +to pray. Instead of religion, their minds are +saturated with the grossest superstition. If this +be the condition of the free woman, how much +worse that of the slave!</p> +<p> +The present socially degraded state in which +the people live, and their apparent, though not real, +incapacity for progress and development, is to a +great extent the curse entailed by this brutalization +of women. No race can ever rise above the level +of its weaker sex, and till Morocco learns this lesson +it will never rise. The boy may be the father of +the man, but the woman is the mother of the boy, +and so controls the destiny of the nation. Nothing +can indeed be hoped for in this country in the +way of social progress till the minds of the men +have been raised, and their estimation of women +entirely changed. Though Turkey was so long +much in the position in which Morocco remains +to-day, it is a noteworthy fact that as she steadily +progresses in the way of civilization, one of the +most apparent features of this progress is the +growing respect for women, and the increasing +liberty which is allowed them, both in public and +private.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page82" id="page82"></a><span class="left">[page 82]</span> + + + +<h3>VIII</h3> + +<h2>SOCIAL VISITS<a name="VIII1r" id="VIII1r"></a><a href="#VIII1"><sup>*</sup></a></h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Every country its customs."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +"Calling" is not the common, every-day event in +Barbary which it has grown to be in European +society. The narrowed-in life of the Moorish woman +of the higher classes, and the strict watch which is kept +lest some other man than her husband should see +her, makes a regular interchange of visits practically +impossible. No doubt the Moorish woman would +find them quite as great a burden as her western +sister, and in this particular her ignorance may be +greater bliss than her knowledge. In spite of the +paucity of the "calls" she receives or pays, she is +by no means ignorant of the life and character +of her neighbours, thanks to certain old women +(amongst them the professional match-makers) who +go about as veritable gossip-mongers, and preserve +their more cloistered sisters at least from +dying of inanition. Thus the veriest trifles of +house arrangement or management are thoroughly +canvassed.</p> +<p> +Nor is it a privilege commonly extended to +European women to be received into the hareems +of the high-class and wealthy Moors, although<a name="page83" id="page83"></a><span class="left">[page 83]</span> +lady missionaries have abundant opportunities for +making the acquaintance of the women of the poorer +classes, especially when medical knowledge and skill +afford a key. But the wives of the rich are shut +away to themselves, and if you are fortunate enough +to be invited to call upon them, do not neglect your +opportunity.</p> +<p> +You will find that the time named for calling is +not limited to the afternoon. Thus it may be when +the morning air is blowing fresh from the sea, and +the sun is mounting in the heavens, that you are +ushered, perhaps by the master of the house, through +winding passages to the quarters of the women. +If there is a garden, this is frequently reserved for +their use, and jealously protected from view, and +as in all cases they are supposed to have the +monopoly of the flat roof, the courteous male +foreigner will keep his gaze from wandering thither +too frequently, or resting there too long.</p> +<p> +Do not be surprised if you are ushered into an +apparently empty room, furnished after the Moorish +manner with a strip of richly coloured carpet down +the centre, and mattresses round the edge. If there +is a musical box in the room, it will doubtless be +set going as a pleasant accompaniment to conversation, +and the same applies to striking or chiming +clocks, for which the Moors have a strong predilection +as <i>objets d'art</i>, rather than to mark the march +of time.</p> +<p> +Of course you will not have forgotten to remove +your shoes at the door, and will be sitting cross-legged +and quite at ease on one of the immaculate +mattresses, when the ladies begin to arrive from +their retreats. As they step forward to greet you,<a name="page84" id="page84"></a><span class="left">[page 84]</span>you may notice their henna-stained feet, a means +of decoration which is repeated on their hands, +where it is sometimes used in conjunction with +harkos, a black pigment with which is applied a +delicate tracery giving the effect of black silk +mittens. The dark eyes are made to appear more +lustrous and almond-shaped by the application of +antimony, and the brows are extended till they +meet in a black line above the nose. The hair is +arranged under a head-dress frequently composed +of two bright-coloured, short-fringed silk handkerchiefs, +knotted together above the ears, sometimes +with the addition of an artificial flower: heavy +ear-rings are worn, and from some of them there +are suspended large silver hands, charms against +the "evil eye." But undoubtedly the main feature +of the whole costume is the kaftán or tunic of +lustrous satin or silk, embroidered richly in gold +and silver, of a colour showing to advantage beneath +a white lace garment of similar shape.</p> +<p> +The women themselves realize that such fine +feathers must be guarded from spot or stain, for +they are in many cases family heir-looms, so after +they have greeted you with a slight pressure of +their finger tips laid upon yours, and taken their +seats, tailor fashion, you will notice that each sedulously +protects her knees with a rough Turkish +towel, quite possibly the worse for wear. In spite +of her love for personal decoration, evidenced by +the strings of pearls with which her neck is entwined, +and the heavy silver armlets, the well-bred Moorish +woman evinces no more curiosity than her European +sister about the small adornments of her visitor, +and this is the more remarkable when you remember<a name="page85" id="page85"></a><span class="left">[page 85]</span> +how destitute of higher interests is her life. She +will make kindly and very interested inquiries +about your relatives, and even about your life, +though naturally, in spite of your explanations, it +remains a sealed book to her. The average +Moorish woman, however, shows herself as inquisitive +as the Chinese.</p> +<p> +It is quite possible that you may see some of +the children, fascinating, dark-eyed, soft-skinned +morsels of humanity, with henna-dyed hair, which +may be plaited in a pig-tail, the length of which +is augmented by a strange device of coloured wool +with which the ends of the hair are interwoven. +But children of the better class in Morocco are +accustomed to keep in the background, and unless +invited, do not venture farther than the door of the +reception room, and then with a becoming modesty. +If any of the slave-wives enter, you will have an +opportunity of noticing their somewhat quaint greeting +of those whom they desire to honour, a kiss +bestowed on each hand, which they raise to meet +their lips, and upon each shoulder, before they, +too, take their seats upon the mattresses.</p> +<p> +Probably you will not have long to wait before +a slave-girl enters with the preparations for tea, +orange-flower water, incense, a well-filled tray, a +samovar, and two or three dishes piled high with +cakes. If you are wise, you will most assuredly +try the "gazelle's hoofs," so-called from their shape, +for they are a most delicious compound of almond +paste, with a spiciness so skilfully blended as to be +almost elusive. If you have a sweet tooth, the +honey cakes will be eminently satisfactory, but if +your taste is plainer, you will enjoy the f'kákis,<a name="page86" id="page86"></a><span class="left">[page 86]</span> +or dry biscuit. Three cups of their most fragrant +tea is the orthodox allowance, but a Moorish host +or hostess is not slow to perceive any disinclination, +however slight, and will sometimes of his or her +own accord pave your way to a courteous refusal, +by appearing not over anxious either for the last +cup.</p> +<p> +If you have already had an experience of dining +in Morocco, the whole process of the tea-making +will be familiar; if not, you will be interested to +notice how the tea ("gunpowder") is measured in +the hand, then emptied into the pot, washed, +thoroughly sweetened, made with boiling water from +the samovar, and flavoured with mint or verbena. +If the master of the house is present, he is apt to +keep the tea-making in his own hands, although he +may delegate it to one of his wives, who thus becomes +the hostess of the occasion.</p> +<p> +After general inquiries as to the purpose of your +visit to Morocco, you may be asked if you are a +tabeebah or lady doctor, the one profession which +they know, by hearsay at least, is open to women. +If you can claim ever so little knowledge, you will +probably be asked for a prescription to promote an +increase of adipose tissue, which they consider their +greatest charm; perhaps a still harder riddle may +be propounded, with the hope that its satisfactory +solution may secure to them the wavering affection +of their lord, and prevent alienation and, perhaps, +divorce. Yet all you can say is, "In shá Allah" +(If God will!)</p> +<p> +When you bid them farewell it will be with a +keen realization of their narrow, cramped lives, and +an appreciation of your own opportunities. Did<a name="page87" id="page87"></a><span class="left">[page 87]</span> +you but know it, they too are full of sympathy +for that poor, over-strained Nazarene woman, +who is obliged to leave the shelter of her four +walls, and face the world unveiled, unprotected, +unabashed.</p> +<p> +And thus our proverb is proved true.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="VIII1" id="VIII1"></a> +<a href="#VIII1r">*</a> Contributed by my wife.—B. M.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page88" id="page88"></a><span class="left">[page 88]</span> + + +<h3>IX</h3> + +<h2>A COUNTRY WEDDING</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Silence is at the door of consent."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Thursday was chosen as auspicious for the wedding, +but the ceremonies commenced on the Sunday +before. The first item on an extensive programme +was the visit of the bride with her immediate +female relatives and friends to the steam bath at +the kasbah, a rarity in country villages, in this +case used only by special favour. At the close +of an afternoon of fun and frolic in the bath-house, +Zóharah, the bride, was escorted to her home +closely muffled, to keep her bed till the following +day.</p> +<p> +Next morning it was the duty of Mokhtar, the +bridegroom, to send his betrothed a bullock, with +oil, butter and onions; pepper, salt and spices; +charcoal and wood; figs, raisins, dates and almonds; +candles and henna, wherewith to prepare the +marriage feast. He had already, according to the +custom of the country, presented the members of +her family with slippers and ornaments. As soon +as the bullock arrived it was killed amid great +rejoicings and plenty of "tom-tom," especially as +in the villages a sheep is usually considered sufficient +provision. On this day Mokhtar's male<a name="page89" id="page89"></a><span class="left">[page 89]</span> +friends enjoyed a feast in the afternoon, while in +the evening the bride had to undergo the process +of re-staining with henna to the accompaniment of +music. The usual effect of this was somewhat +counteracted, however, by the wails of those who +had lost relatives during the year. On each successive +night, when the drumming began, the same +sad scene was repeated—a strange alloy in all the +merriment of the wedding.</p> +<p> +On the Tuesday Zóharah received her maiden +friends, children attending the reception in the afternoon, +till the none too roomy hut was crowded to +suffocation, and the bride exhausted, although +custom prescribed that she should lie all day on +the bed, closely wrapped up, and seen by none of +her guests, from whom she was separated by a +curtain. Every visitor had brought with her some +little gift, such as handkerchiefs, candles, sugar, tea, +spices and dried fruits, the inspection of which, +when all were gone, was her only diversion that +day. Throughout that afternoon and the next the +neighbouring villages rivalled one another in peaceful +sport and ear-splitting ululation, as though, within +the memory of man, no other state of things had +ever existed between them.</p> +<p> +Meanwhile Mokhtar had a more enlivening +time with his bachelor friends, who, after feasting +with him in the evening, escorted him, wrapped in +a háïk or shawl, to the house of his betrothed, outside +which they danced and played for three or four +hours by the light of lanterns. On returning home, +much fun ensued round the supper-basin on the +floor, while the palms of the whole company were +stained with henna. Then their exuberant spirits<a name="page90" id="page90"></a><span class="left">[page 90]</span> +found relief in dancing round with basins on their +heads, till one of them dropped his basin, and +snatching off Mokhtar's cloak as if for protection, +was immediately chased by the others till supper +was ready. After supper all lay back to sleep. For +four days the bridegroom's family had thus to feast +and amuse his male friends, while the ladies were +entertained by that of the bride.</p> +<p> +On Wednesday came the turn of the married +women visitors, whose bulky forms crowded the +hut, if possible more closely than had their children. +Gossip and scandal were now retailed with a zest +and minuteness of detail not permissible in England, +while rival belles waged wordy war in shouts which +sounded like whispers amid the din. The walls of +the hut were hung with the brightest coloured +garments that could be borrowed, and the gorgeous +finery of the guests made up a scene of dazzling +colour. Green tea and cakes were first passed +round, and then a tray for offerings for the musicians, +which, when collected, were placed on the floor +beneath a rich silk handkerchief. Presents were +also made by all to the bride's mother, on behalf +of her daughter, who sat in weary state on the bed +at one end of the room. As each coin was put +down for the players, or for the hostess, a portly +female who acted as crier announced the sum contributed, +with a prayer for blessing in return, which +was in due course echoed by the chief musician. +At the bridegroom's house a similar entertainment +was held, the party promenading the lanes at dusk +with torches and lanterns, after which they received +from the bridegroom the powder for next +day's play.</p> + +<br /><a name="caravan" id="caravan"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/091.jpg"><img src="images/091-276.jpg" width="276" height="430" alt="A MOORISH CARAVAN." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> + +<b>A MOORISH CARAVAN.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page91" id="page91"></a><span class="left">[page 91]</span> +<p> +Thursday opened with much-needed rest for +Zóharah and her mother till the time came for the +final decking; but Mokhtar had to go to the bath +with his bachelor friends, and on returning to his +newly prepared dwelling, to present many of them +with small coins, receiving in return cotton handkerchiefs +and towels, big candles and matches. Then +all sat down to a modest repast, for which he had +provided raisins and other dried fruits, some additional +fun being provided by a number of the +married neighbours, who tried in vain to gain +admission, and in revenge made off with other +people's shoes, ultimately returning them full of +dried fruits and nuts. Then Mokhtar's head was +shaved to the accompaniment of music, and the +barber was feasted, while the box in which the +bride was to be fetched was brought in, and decked +with muslin curtains, surmounted by a woman's +head-gear, handkerchiefs, and a sash. The box +was about two and a half feet square, and +somewhat more in height, including its pointed +top.</p> +<p> +After three drummings to assemble the friends, a +procession was formed about a couple of hours after +sunset, lit by torches, lanterns and candles, led by +the powder-players, followed by the mounted bridegroom, +and behind him the bridal box lashed on +the back of a horse; surrounded by more excited +powder-players, and closed by the musicians. As +they proceeded by a circuitous route the women +shrieked, the powder spoke, till all were roused +to a fitting pitch of fervour, and so reached the +house of the bride. "Behold, the bridegroom +cometh!"</p> + +<a name="page92" id="page92"></a><span class="left">[page 92]</span> +<p> +Presently the "litter" was deposited at the door, +Mokhtar remaining a short distance off, while the +huge old negress, who had officiated so far as mistress +of the ceremonies, lifted Zóharah bodily off the +bed, and placed her, crying, in the cage. In this +a loaf of bread, a candle, some sugar and salt had +been laid by way of securing good luck in her new +establishment. Her valuables, packed in another +box, were entrusted to the negress, who was to +walk by her side, while strong arms mounted her, +and lashed the "amariah" in its place. As soon as +the procession had reformed, the music ceased, and +a Fátihah<a name="IX1r" id="IX1r"></a><a href="#IX1"><sup>*</sup></a> was solemnly recited. Then they started +slowly, as they had come, Mokhtar leaving his bride +as she was ushered, closely veiled, from her box +into her new home, contenting himself with standing +by the side and letting her pass beneath his +arm in token of submission. The door was then +closed, and the bridegroom took a turn with his +friends while the bride should compose herself, and +all things be made ready by the negress. Later on +he returned, and being admitted, the newly married +couple met at last.</p> +<p> +Next day they were afforded a respite, but on +Saturday the bride had once more to hold a reception, +and on the succeeding Thursday came the +ceremony of donning the belt, a long, stiff band of +embroidered silk, folded to some six inches in +width, wound many times round. Standing over +a dish containing almonds, raisins, figs, dates, and +a couple of eggs, in the presence of a gathering +of married women, one of whom assisted in the +winding, two small boys adjusted the sash with<a name="page93" id="page93"></a><span class="left">[page 93]</span> +all due state, after which a procession was +formed round the house, and the actual wedding +was over. Thus commenced a year's imprisonment +for the bride, as it was not till she was +herself a mother that she was permitted to revisit +her old home.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="IX1" id="IX1"></a> +<a href="#IX1r">*</a> The beautiful opening prayer of the Korán.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page94" id="page94"></a><span class="left">[page 94]</span> + + +<h3>X</h3> + +<h2>THE BAIRNS</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Every monkey is a gazelle to its mother."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +If there is one point in the character of the Moor +which commends itself above others to the mind of +the European it is his love for his children. But +when it is observed that in too many cases this love +is unequally divided, and that the father prefers +his sons to his daughters, our admiration is apt to +wane. Though by no means an invariable rule, +this is the most common outcome of the pride felt +in being the father of a son who may be a credit to +the house, and the feeling that a daughter who has +to be provided for is an added responsibility.</p> +<p> +All is well when the two tiny children play +together on the floor, and quarrel on equal terms, +but it is another thing when little Hamed goes daily +to school, and as soon as he has learned to read is +brought home in triumph on a gaily dressed horse, +heading a procession of shouting schoolfellows, +while his pretty sister Fátimah is fast developing +into a maid-of-all-work whom nobody thinks of +noticing. And the distinction widens when Hamed +rides in the "powder-play," or is trusted to keep +shop by himself, while Fátimah is closely veiled +and kept a prisoner indoors, body and mind<a name="page95" id="page95"></a><span class="left">[page 95]</span> +unexercised, distinguishable by colour and dress +alone from Habîbah, the ebony slave-girl, who +was sold like a calf from her mother's side. Yes, +indeed, far different paths lie before the two play-mates, +but while they are treated alike, let us take +a peep at them in their innocent sweetness.</p> +<p> +Their mother, Ayeshah, went out as usual one +morning to glean in the fields, and in the evening +returned with two bundles upon her back; the +upper one was to replace crowing Hamed in his +primitive cradle: it was Fátimah. Next day, as +Ayeshah set off to work again, she left her son +kicking up his heels on a pile of blankets, howling +till he should become acquainted with his new +surroundings, and a little skinny mite lay peacefully +sleeping where he had hitherto lived. No mechanical +bassinette ever swung more evenly, and no +soft draperies made a better cot than the sheet tied +up by the corners to a couple of ropes, and swung +across the room like a hammock. The beauty of it +was that, roll as he would, even active Hamed had +been safe in it, and all his energies only served to +rock him off to sleep again, for the sides almost +met at the top. Yet he was by no means dull, for +through a hole opposite his eye he could watch the +cows and goats and sheep as they wandered about +the yard, not to speak of the cocks and hens that +roamed all over the place.</p> +<p> +At last the time came when both the wee ones +could toddle, and Ayeshah carried them no more to +the fields astride her hips or slung over her shoulders +in a towel. They were then left to disport themselves +as they pleased—which, of course, meant +rolling about on the ground,—their garments tied up<a name="page96" id="page96"></a><span class="left">[page 96]</span> +under their arms, leaving them bare from the waist. +No wonder that sitting on cold and wet stones had +threatened to shrivel up their thin legs, which looked +wonderfully shaky at best.</p> +<p> +It seems to be a maxim among the Moors that +neither head, arms nor legs suffer in any way from +exposure to cold or heat, and the mothers of the +poorer classes think nothing of carrying their +children slung across their backs with their little +bare pates exposed to the sun and rain, or of +allowing their lower limbs to become numbed with +cold as just described. The sole recommendation +of such a system is that only the fittest—in a certain +sense—survive. Of the attention supposed to be +bestowed in a greater or less degree upon all babes +in our own land they get little. One result, however, +is satisfactory, for they early give up yelling, +as an amusement which does not pay, and no one +is troubled to march them up and down for hours +when teething. Yet it is hardly surprising that +under such conditions infant mortality is very great, +and, indeed, all through life in this doctorless land +astonishing numbers are carried off by diseases we +should hardly consider dangerous.</p> +<p> +Beyond the much-enjoyed dandle on Father's +knee, or the cuddle with Mother, delights are few +in Moorish child-life, and of toys such as we have +they know nothing, whatever they may find to +take their place. But when a boy is old enough +to amuse himself, there is no end to the mischief +and fun he will contrive, and the lads of Barbary +are as fond of their games as we of ours. You +may see them racing about after school hours +at a species of "catch-as-catch-can," or playing<a name="page97" id="page97"></a><span class="left">[page 97]</span> +football with their heels, or spinning tops, sometimes +of European make. Or, dearest sport of all, racing a +donkey while seated on its far hind quarters, with +all the noise and enjoyment we threw into such +pastimes a few years ago. To look at the merry +faces of these lively youths, and to hear their cheery +voices, is sufficient to convince anyone of their +inherent capabilities, which might make them +easily a match for English lads if they had their +chances.</p> +<p> +But what chances have they? At the age of +four or five they are drafted off to school, not to +be educated, but to be taught to read by rote, and +to repeat long chapters of the Korán, if not the +whole volume, by heart, hardly understanding what +they read. Beyond this little is taught but the four +great rules of arithmetic in the figures which we +have borrowed from them, but worked out in the +most primitive style. In "long" multiplication, +for instance, they write every figure down, and +"carry" nothing, so that a much more formidable +addition than need be has to conclude the calculation. +But they have a quaint system of learning their +multiplication tables by mnemonics, in which every +number is represented by a letter, and these being +made up into words, are committed to memory in +place of the figures.</p> +<p> +A Moorish school is a simple affair. No forms, +no desks, few books. A number of boards about +the size of foolscap, painted white on both sides, on +which the various lessons—from the alphabet to +portions of the Korán—are plainly written in large +black letters; a switch or two, a pen and ink and +a book, complete the furnishings. The dominie,<a name="page98" id="page98"></a><span class="left">[page 98]</span> +squatted tailor-fashion on the ground, like his pupils, +who may number from ten to thirty, repeats the +lesson in a sonorous sing-song voice, and is imitated +by the little urchins, who accompany their voices +by a rocking to and fro, which occasionally enables +them to keep time. A sharp application of the +switch is wonderfully effectual in re-calling wandering +attention. Lazy boys are speedily expelled.</p> +<p> +On the admission of a pupil the parents pay +some small sum, varying according to their means, +and every Wednesday, which is a half-holiday, a +payment is made from a farthing to twopence. New +moons and feasts are made occasions for larger +payments, and count as holidays, which last ten +days on the occasion of the greater festivals. +Thursday is a whole holiday, and no work is done +on Friday morning, that being the Mohammedan +Sabbath, or at least "meeting day," as it is called.</p> +<p> +At each successive stage of the scholastic career +the schoolmaster parades the pupils one by one, if +at all well-to-do, in the style already alluded to, +collecting gifts from the grateful parents to supplement +the few coppers the boys bring to school week +by week. If they intend to become notaries or +judges, they go on to study at Fez, where they +purchase the key of a room at one of the colleges, +and read to little purpose for several years. In +everything the Korán is the standard work. The +chapters therein being arranged without any idea +of sequence, only according to length,—with the +exception of the Fátihah,—the longest at the beginning +and the shortest at the end, after the +first the last is learned, and so backwards to the +second.</p> + +<a name="page99" id="page99"></a><span class="left">[page 99]</span> +<p> +Most of the lads are expected to do something +to earn their bread at quite an early age, in one +way or another, even if not called on to assist their +parents in something which requires an old head +on young shoulders. Such youths being so early +independent, at least in a measure, mix with older +lads, who soon teach them all the vices they have +not already learned, in which they speedily become +as adept as their parents.</p> +<p> +Those intended for a mercantile career are put +into the shop at twelve or fourteen, and after some +experience in weighing-out and bargaining by the +side of a father or elder brother, they are left +entirely to themselves, being supplied with goods +from the main shop as they need them.</p> +<p> +It is by this means that the multitudinous little +box-shops which are a feature of the towns are +enabled to pay their way, this being rendered +possible by an expensive minutely retail trade. +The average English tradesman is a wholesale +dealer compared to these petty retailers, and very +many middle-class English households take in sufficient +supplies at a time to stock one of their shops. +One reason for this is the hand-to-mouth manner +in which the bulk of the people live, with no notion +of thrift. They earn their day's wage, and if +anything remains above the expense of living, it +is invested in gay clothing or jimcracks. Another +reason is that those who could afford it have seldom +any member of their household whom they can +trust as housekeeper, of which more anon.</p> +<p> +It seems ridiculous to send for sugar, tea, etc., +by the ounce or less; candles, boxes of matches, etc., +one by one; needles, thread, silk, in like proportion,<a name="page100" id="page100"></a><span class="left">[page 100]</span> +even when cash is available, but such is the practice +here, and there is as much haggling over the price +of one candle as over that of an expensive article +of clothing. Often quite little children, who elsewhere +would be considered babes, are sent out to +do the shopping, and these cheapen and bargain like +the sharpest old folk, with what seems an inherent +talent.</p> +<p> +Very little care is taken of even the children +of the rich, and they get no careful training. The +little sons and daughters of quite important personages +are allowed to run about as neglected and +dirty as those of the very poor. Hence the practice +of shaving the head cannot be too highly +praised in a country where so much filth abounds, +and where cutaneous diseases of the worst type are +so frequent. It is, however, noteworthy that while +the Moors do not seem to consider it any disgrace +to be scarred and covered with disgusting sores, +the result of their own sins and those of their +fathers, they are greatly ashamed of any ordinary +skin disease on the head. But though the shaven +skulls are the distinguishing feature of the boys in +the house, where their dress closely resembles that +of their sisters, the girls may be recognized by their +ample locks, often dyed to a fashionable red with +henna; yet they, too, are often partially shaved, +sometimes in a fantastic style. It may be the hair +in front is cut to a fringe an inch long over the +forehead, and a strip a quarter of an inch wide is +shaved just where the visible part of a child's comb +would come, while behind this the natural frizzy +or straight hair is left, cut short, while the head is +shaved again round the ears and at the back of the +<a name="page101" id="page101"></a><span class="left">[page 101]</span> +neck. To perform these operations a barber is +called in, who attends the family regularly. Little +boys of certain tribes have long tufts left hanging +behind their ears, and occasionally they also have +their heads shaved in strange devices.</p> +<p> +Since no attempt is made to bring the children +up as useful members of the community at the age +when they are most susceptible, they are allowed +to run wild. Thus, bright and tractable as they +are naturally, no sooner do the lads approach the +end of their 'teens, than a marked change comes +over them, a change which even the most casual +observer cannot fail to notice. The hitherto agreeable +youths appear washed-out and worthless. All +their energy has disappeared, and from this time +till a second change takes place for the worse, large +numbers drag out a weary existence, victims of +vices which hold them in their grip, till as if +burned up by a fierce but short-lived fire, they +ultimately become seared and shattered wrecks. +From this time every effort is made to fan the +flickering or extinguished flame, till death relieves +the weary mortal of the burden of his life.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page102" id="page102"></a><span class="left">[page 102]</span> + +<h3>XI</h3> + +<h2>"DINING OUT"<a name="XIr" id="XIr"></a><a href="#XI"><sup>*</sup></a></h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"A good supper is known by its odour."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +There are no more important qualifications for the +diner-out in Morocco than an open mind and a +teachable spirit. Then start with a determination +to forget European table manners, except in so far +as they are based upon consideration for the feelings +of others, setting yourself to do in Morocco as the +Moors do, and you cannot fail to gain profit and +pleasure from your experience.</p> +<p> +One slight difficulty arises from the fact that it +is somewhat hard to be sure at any time that you +have been definitely invited to partake of a Moorish +meal. A request that you would call at three o'clock +in the afternoon, mid-way between luncheon and +dinner, would seem an unusual hour for a heavy +repast, yet that is no guarantee that you may not be +expected to partake freely of an elaborate feast.</p> +<p> +If you are a member of the frail, fair sex, the +absence of all other women will speedily arouse you +to the fact that you are in an oriental country, for +in Morocco the sons and chief servants, though they +eat after the master of the house, take precedence of +the wives and women-folk, who eat what remains of<a name="page103" id="page103"></a><span class="left">[page 103]</span> +the various dishes, or have specially prepared meals +in their own apartments. For the same reason you +need not be surprised if you are waited upon after +the men of the party, though this order is sometimes +reversed where the host is familiar with European +etiquette with regard to women. If a man, perhaps +a son will wait upon you.</p> +<p> +The well-bred Moor is quite as great a stickler +for the proprieties as the most conservative Anglo-Saxon, +and you will do well if you show consideration +at the outset by removing your shoes at the +door of the room, turning a deaf ear to his assurance +that such a proceeding is quite unnecessary on your +part. A glance round the room will make it clear +that your courtesy will be appreciated, for the carpet +on the floor is bright and unmarked by muddy or +dusty shoes (in spite of the condition of the streets +outside), and the mattresses upon which you are +invited to sit are immaculate in their whiteness.</p> +<p> +Having made yourself comfortable, you will +admire the arrangements for the first item upon +the programme. The slave-girl appears with a +handsome tray, brass or silver, upon which there +are a goodly number of cups or tiny glass tumblers, +frequently both, of delicate pattern and artistic +colouring, a silver tea-pot, a caddy of green tea, +a silver or glass bowl filled with large, uneven lumps +of sugar, which have been previously broken off from +the loaf, and a glass containing sprigs of mint and +verbena. The brass samovar comes next, and having +measured the tea in the palm of his right hand, and +put it into the pot, the host proceeds to pour a small +amount of boiling water upon it, which he straightway +pours off, a precaution lest the Nazarenes should<a name="page104" id="page104"></a><span class="left">[page 104]</span> +have mingled some colouring matter therewith. He +then adds enough sugar to ensure a semi-syrupy +result, with some sprigs of peppermint, and fills the +pot from the samovar. A few minutes later he pours +out a little, which he tastes himself, frequently returning +the remainder to the pot, although the more +Europeanized consume the whole draught. If the +test has been satisfactory, he proceeds to fill the +cups or glasses, passing them in turn to the guests +in order of distinction. To make a perceptible +noise in drawing it from the glass to the mouth +is esteemed a delicate token of appreciation.</p> +<p> +The tray is then removed; the slave in attendance +brings a chased brass basin and ewer of water, +and before the serious portion of the meal begins +you are expected to hold out your right hand just to +cleanse it from any impurities which may have been +contracted in coming. Orange-flower water in a +silver sprinkler is then brought in, followed by a brass +incense burner filled with live charcoal, on which a +small quantity of sandal-wood or other incense is +placed, and the result is a delicious fragrance which +you are invited to waft by a circular motion of your +hands into your hair, your ribbons and your laces, +while your Moorish host finds the folds of his loose +garments invaluable for the retention of the spicy +perfume.</p> +<p> +A circular table about eight inches high is then +placed in the centre of the guests; on this is placed +a tray with the first course of the dinner, frequently +puffs of delicate pastry fried in butter over a charcoal +fire, and containing sometimes meat, sometimes +a delicious compound of almond paste and cinnamon. +This, being removed, is followed by a succession of<a name="page105" id="page105"></a><span class="left">[page 105]</span> +savoury stews with rich, well-flavoured gravies, each +with its own distinctive spiciness, but all excellently +cooked. The host first dips a fragment of bread +into the gravy, saying as he does so, "B'ísm Illah!" +("In the name of God!"), which the guests repeat, +as each follows suit with a sop from the dish.</p> +<p> +There is abundant scope for elegance of gesture +in the eating of the stews, but still greater opportunity +when the <i>pièce de résistance</i> of a Moorish +dinner, the dish of kesk'soo, is brought on. This +kesk'soo is a small round granule prepared from +semolina, which, having been steamed, is served +like rice beneath and round an excellent stew, which +is heaped up in the centre of the dish. With +the thumb and two first fingers of the right hand +you are expected to secure some succulent morsel +from the stew,—meat, raisins, onions, or vegetable +marrow,—and with it a small quantity of the kesk'soo. +By a skilful motion of the palm the whole is formed +into a round ball, which is thrown with a graceful +curve of hand and wrist into the mouth. Woe betide +you if your host is possessed by the hospitable +desire to make one of these boluses for you, for he +is apt to measure the cubic content of your mouth +by that of his own, and for a moment your feelings +will be too deep for words; but this is only a brief +discomfort, and you will find the dish an excellent +one, for Moorish cooks never serve tough meat.</p> +<p> +If your fingers have suffered from contact with +the kesk'soo, it is permitted to you to apply your +tongue to each digit in turn in the following order; +fourth (or little finger), second, thumb, third, first; +but a few moments later the slave appears, and after +bearing away the table with the remains of the feast<a name="page106" id="page106"></a><span class="left">[page 106]</span> +gives the opportunity for a most satisfactory ablution. +In this case you are expected to use soap, and to +wash both hands, over which water is poured three +times. If you are at all acquainted with Moorish +ways, you will not fail at the same time to apply +soap and water to your mouth both outwardly and +inwardly, being careful to rinse it three times with +plenty of noise, ejecting the water behind your hand +into the basin which is held before you.</p> +<p> +Orange-flower water and incense now again +appear, and you may be required to drink three +more glasses of refreshing tea, though this is sometimes +omitted at the close of a repast. Of course +"the feast of reason and the flow of soul" have not +been lacking, and you have been repeatedly assured +of your welcome, and invited to partake beyond the +limit of human possibility, for the Moor believes +you can pay no higher compliment to the dainties +he has provided than by their consumption.</p> +<p> +For a while you linger, reclining upon the +mattress as gracefully as may be possible for a +tyro, with your arm upon a pile of many-coloured +cushions of embroidered leather or cloth. Then, +after a thousand mutual thanks and blessings, +accompanied by graceful bowings and bendings, +you say farewell and step to the door, where your +slippers await you, and usher yourself out, not ill-satisfied +with your initiation into the art of dining-out +in Barbary.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XI" id="XI"></a> +<a href="#XIr">*</a> Contributed by my wife.—B. M.</p> + +<br /><a name="fruit-sellers" id="fruit-sellers"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/107.jpg"><img src="images/107-500.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="FRUIT-SELLERS." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i><br /><br /> +<b>FRUIT-SELLERS.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page107" id="page107"></a><span class="left">[page 107]</span> + +<h3>XII</h3> + +<h2>DOMESTIC ECONOMY</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Manage with bread and butter till God sends the jam."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +If the ordinary regulations of social life among the +Moors differ materially from those in force among +ourselves, how much more so must the minor details +of the housekeeping when, to begin with, the husband +does the marketing and keeps the keys! And the +consequential Moor does, indeed, keep the keys, not +only of the stores, but also often of the house. What +would an English lady think of being coolly locked +in a windowless house while her husband went for +a journey, the provisions for the family being meanwhile +handed in each morning through a loophole +by a trusty slave left as gaoler? That no surprise +whatever would be elicited in Barbary by such an +arrangement speaks volumes. Woman has no voice +under Mohammed's creed.</p> +<p> +Early in the morning let us take a stroll into +the market, and see how things are managed there. +Round the inside of a high-walled enclosure is a +row of the rudest of booths. Over portions of the +pathway, stretching across to other booths in the +centre—if the market is a wide one—are pieces of +cloth, vines on trellis, or canes interwoven with +brushwood. As the sun gains strength these afford<a name="page108" id="page108"></a><span class="left">[page 108]</span> +a most grateful shade, and during the heat of the +day there is no more pleasant place for a stroll, and +none more full of characteristic life. In the wider +parts, on the ground, lie heaps two or three feet +high of mint, verbena and lemon thyme, the much-esteemed +flavourings for the national drink—green-tea +syrup—exhaling a most delicious fragrance. It +is early summer: the luscious oranges are not yet +over, and in tempting piles they lie upon the +stalls made of old packing-cases, many with still +legible familiar English and French inscriptions. +Apricots are selling at a halfpenny or less the +pound, and plums and damsons, not to speak of +greengages, keep good pace with them in price and +sales. The bright tints of the lettuces and other +fresh green vegetables serve to set off the rich +colours of the God-made delicacies, but the prevailing +hue of the scene is a restful earth-brown, an +autumnal leaf-tint; the trodden ground, the sun-dried +brush-wood of the booths and awnings, and +the wet-stained wood-work. No glamour of paint +or gleam of glass destroys the harmony of the +surroundings.</p> +<p> +But with all the feeling of cool and repose, rest +there is not, or idleness, for there is not a brisker +scene in an oriental town than its market-place. +Thronging those narrow pathways come the rich +and poor—the portly merchant in his morning +cloak, a spotless white wool jelláb, with a turban +and girth which bespeak easy circumstances; the +labourer in just such a cloak with the hood up, but +one which was always brown, and is now much +mended; the slave in shirt and drawers, with a +string round his shaven pate; the keen little Jew<a name="page109" id="page109"></a><span class="left">[page 109]</span> +boy pushing and bargaining as no other could; the +bearded son of Israel, with piercing eyes, and his +daughter with streaming hair; lastly, the widow or +time-worn wife of the poor Mohammedan, who must +needs market for herself. Her wrinkled face and +care-worn look tell a different tale from the pompous +self-content of the merchant by her side, who drives +as hard a bargain as she does. In his hand he +carries a palmetto-leaf basket, already half full, +as with slippered feet he carefully picks his way +among puddles and garbage.</p> +<p> +"Good morning, O my master; God bless +thee!" exclaims the stall-keeper as his customer +comes in sight.</p> +<p> +Sáïd el Faráji has to buy cloth of the merchant +time and time again, so makes a point of pleasing +one who can return a kindness.</p> +<p> +"No ill, praise God; and thyself, O Sáïd?" +comes the cheery reply; then, after five minutes' +mutual inquiry after one another's household, horses +and other interests, health and general welfare, friend +Sáïd points out the daintiest articles on his stall, and +in the most persuasive of tones names his "lowest +price."</p> +<p> +All the while he is sitting cross-legged on an old +box, with his scales before him.</p> +<p> +"What? Now, come, I'll give you <i>so</i> much," +says the merchant, naming a price slightly less than +that asked.</p> +<p> +"Make it <i>so</i> much," exclaims Sáïd, even more +persuasively than before, as he "splits the difference."</p> +<p> +"Well, I'll give you <i>so</i> much," offering just a +little less than this sum. "I can't go above that, +you know."</p> + +<a name="page110" id="page110"></a><span class="left">[page 110]</span> + +<p> +"All right, but you always get the better of me, +you know. That is just what I paid. Anyhow, +don't forget that when I want a new cloak," and +he proceeds to measure out the purchases, using as +weights two or three bits of old iron, a small cannon-ball, +some bullets, screws, coins, etc. "Go with +prosperity, my friend; and may God bless thee!"</p> +<p> +"And may God increase thy prosperity, and +grant to thee a blessing!" rejoins the successful +man, as he proceeds to another stall.</p> +<p> +By the time he reaches home his basket will +contain meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and herbs, +besides, perhaps, a loaf of sugar, and a quarter of +a pound of tea, with supplies of spices and some +candles. Bread they make at home.</p> +<p> +The absurdly minute quantities of what we +should call "stores," which a man will purchase +who could well afford to lay in a supply, seem very +strange to the foreigner; but it is part of his +domestic economy—or lack of that quality. He +will not trust his wife with more than one day's +supply at a time, and to weigh things out himself +each morning would be trouble not to be +dreamed of; besides which it would deprive him +of the pleasure of all that bargaining, not to speak +of the appetite-promoting stroll, and the opportunities +for gossip with acquaintances which it +affords. In consequence, wives and slaves are +generally kept on short allowances, if these are +granted at all.</p> +<p> +An amusing incident which came under my +notice in Tangier shows how little the English idea +of the community of interest of husband and wife +is appreciated here. A Moorish woman who<a name="page111" id="page111"></a><span class="left">[page 111]</span> +used to furnish milk to an English family being +met by the lady of the house one morning, when +she had brought short measure, said, pointing to +the husband in the distance, "<i>You</i> be my friend; +take this" (slipping a few coppers worth half a +farthing into her hand), "don't tell <i>him</i> anything +about it. I'll share the profit with you!" She +probably knew from experience that the veriest +trifle would suffice to buy over the wife of a Moor.</p> +<p> +Instructions having been given to his wife +or wives as to what is to be prepared, and how—he +probably pretends to know more of the art culinary +than he does—the husband will start off to attend to +his shop till lunch, which will be about noon. Then +a few more hours in the shop, and before the sun +sets a ride out to his garden by the river, returning +in time for dinner at seven, after which come talk, +prayers, and bed, completing what is more or less +his daily round. His wives will probably be +assisted in the house-work—or perhaps entirely +relieved of it—by a slave-girl or two, and the water +required will be brought in on the shoulders of a +stalwart negro in skins or barrels filled from some +fountain of good repute, but of certain contamination.</p> +<p> +In cooking the Moorish women excel, as their +first-rate productions afford testimony. It is the custom +of some Europeans to systematically disparage +native preparations, but such judges have been the +victims either of their own indiscretion in eating +too many rich things without the large proportion +of bread or other digestible nutriment which should +have accompanied them, or of the essays of their +own servants, usually men without any more knowledge +of how their mothers prepare the dishes they<a name="page112" id="page112"></a><span class="left">[page 112]</span> +attempt to imitate than an ordinary English working +man would have of similar matters. Of course +there are certain flavourings which to many are +really objectionable, but none can be worse to us +than any preparation of pig would be to a Moor. +Prominent among such is the ancient butter which +forms the basis of much of their spicings, butter +made from milk, which has been preserved—usually +buried a year or two—till it has acquired the taste, +and somewhat the appearance, of ripe Gorgonzola. +Those who commence by trying a very slight flavour +of this will find the fancy grow upon them, and there +is no smell so absolutely appetizing as the faintest +whiff of anything being cooked in this butter, called +"smin."</p> +<p> +Another point, much misunderstood, which enables +them to cook the toughest old rooster or +plough-ox joint till it can be eaten readily with the +fingers, is the stewing in oil or butter. When the +oil itself is pure and fresh, it imparts no more taste +to anything cooked in it than does the fresh butter +used by the rich. Articles plunged into either at +their high boiling point are immediately browned +and enclosed in a kind of case, with a result which +can be achieved in no other manner than by rolling +in paste or clay, and cooking amid embers. Moorish +pastry thus cooked in oil is excellent, flaky and +light.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page113" id="page113"></a><span class="left">[page 113]</span> + + + + +<h3>XIII</h3> + +<h2>THE NATIVE "MERCHANT"</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"A turban without a beard shows lack of modesty."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Háj Mohammed Et-Tájir, a grey-bearded worthy, +who looks like a prince when he walks abroad, and +dwells in a magnificent house, sits during business +hours on a diminutive tick and wool mattress, on +the floor of a cob-webbed room on one side of an +ill-paved, uncovered, dirty court-yard. Light and +air are admitted by the door in front of which he +sits, while the long side behind him, the two ends, +and much of the floor, are packed with valuable +cloths, Manchester goods, silk, etc. Two other +sides of the court-yard consist of similar stores, +one occupied by a couple of Jews, and the other +by another fine-looking Háj, his partner.</p> +<p> +Enters a Moor, in common clothing, market +basket in hand. He advances to the entrance of +the store, and salutes the owner respectfully—"Peace +be with thee, Uncle Pilgrim!"</p> +<p> +"With thee be peace, O my master," is the +reply, and the new-comer is handed a cushion, and +motioned to sit on it at the door. "How doest +thou?" "How fares thy house?" "How dost +thou find thyself this morning?" "Is nothing +wrong with thee?" These and similar inquiries<a name="page114" id="page114"></a><span class="left">[page 114]</span> +are showered by each on the other, and an equal +abundance is returned of such replies as, "Nothing +wrong;" "Praise be to God;" "All is well."</p> +<p> +When both cease for lack of breath, after a brief +pause the new arrival asks, "Have you any of +that 'Merican?" (unbleached calico). The dealer +puts on an indignant air, as if astonished at being +asked such a question. "<i>Have</i> I? There is no +counting what I have of it," and he commences to +tell his beads, trying to appear indifferent as to +whether his visitor buys or not. Presently the +latter, also anxious not to appear too eager, exclaims, +"Let's look at it." A piece is leisurely +handed down, and the customer inquires in a +disparaging tone, "How much?"</p> +<p> +"Six and a half," and the speaker again appears +absorbed in meditation.</p> +<p> +"Give thee six," says the customer, rising as if +to go.</p> +<p> +"Wait, thou art very dear to us; to thee alone +will I give a special price, six and a quarter."</p> +<p> +"No, no," replies the customer, shaking his +finger before his face, as though to emphasize his +refusal of even such special terms.</p> +<p> +"Al-l-láh!" piously breathes the dealer, as he +gazes abstractedly out of the door, presently adding +in the same devout tone, "There is no god but +God! God curse the infidels!"</p> +<p> +"Come, I'll give thee six and an okea"—of +which latter six and a half go to the 'quarter' +peseta or franc of which six were offered.</p> +<p> +"No, six and five is the lowest I can take."</p> +<p> +The might-be purchaser made his last offer in a +half-rising posture, and is now nearly erect as he<a name="page115" id="page115"></a><span class="left">[page 115]</span> +says, "Then I can't buy; give it me for six and +three," sitting down as though the bargain were +struck.</p> +<p> +"No, I never sell that quality for less than six +and four, and it's a thing I make no profit on; you +know that."</p> +<p> +The customer doesn't look as though he did, and +rising, turns to go.</p> +<p> +"Send a man to carry it away," says the dealer.</p> +<p> +"At six and three!"</p> +<p> +"No, at six and four!" and the customer goes +away.</p> +<p> +"Send the man, it is thine," is hastily called +after him, and in a few moments he returns with a +Jewish porter, and pays his "six and three."</p> +<p> +So our worthy trader does business all day, and +seems to thrive on it. Occasionally a friend drops +in to chat and not to buy, and now and then there +is a beggar; here is one.</p> +<p> +An aged crone she is, of most forbidding countenance, +swathed in rags, it is a wonder she can keep +together. She leans on a formidable staff, and in a +piteous voice, "For the face of the Lord," and "In +the name of my Lord Slave-of-the-Able" (Mulai +Abd el Káder, a favourite saint), she begs something +"For God." One copper suffices to induce +her to call down untold blessings on the head of the +donor, and she trudges away in the mud, barefooted, +repeating her entreaties till they sound almost +a wail, as she turns the next corner. But beggars +who can be so easily disposed of at the rate of a +hundred and ninety-five for a shilling can hardly be +considered troublesome.</p> +<p> +A respectable-looking man next walks in with<a name="page116" id="page116"></a><span class="left">[page 116]</span> +measured tread, and leaning towards us, says almost +in a whisper—</p> +<p> +"O Friend of the Prophet, is there anything +to-day?"</p> +<p> +"Nothing, O my master," is the courteously +toned reply, for the beggar appears to be a shareef +or noble, and with a "God bless thee," disappears.</p> +<p> +A miserable wretch now turns up, and halfway +across the yard begins to utter a whine which is +speedily cut short by a curt "God help thee!" +whereat the visitor turns on his heel and is gone.</p> +<p> +With a confident bearing an untidy looking +figure enters a moment later, and after due salaams +inquires for a special kind of cloth.</p> +<p> +"Call to-morrow morning," he is told, for he has +not the air of a purchaser, and he takes his departure +meekly.</p> +<p> +A creaky voice here breaks in from round the +corner—</p> +<p> +"Hast thou not a copper for the sake of the +Lord?"</p> +<p> +"No, O my brother."</p> +<p> +After a few minutes another female comes on +the scene, exhibiting enough of her face to show +that it is a mass of sores.</p> +<p> +"Only a trifle, in the name of my lord Idrees," +she cries, and turns away on being told, "God +bring it!"</p> +<p> +Then comes a policeman, a makházni, who seats +himself amid a shower of salutations—</p> +<p> +"Hast thou any more of those selháms" +(hooded cloaks)?</p> +<p> +"Come on the morrow, and thou shalt see."</p> +<p> +The explanation of this answer given by the<a name="page117" id="page117"></a><span class="left">[page 117]</span> +"merchant" is that he sees such folk only mean +to bother him for nothing.</p> +<p> +And this appears to be the daily routine of +"business," though a good bargain must surely be +made some time to have enabled our friend to +acquire all the property he has, but so far as an +outsider can judge, it must be a slow process. +Anyhow, it has heartily tired the writer, who has +whiled away the morning penning this account on a +cushion on one side of the shop described. Yet it +is a fair specimen of what has been observed by him +on many a morning in this sleepy land.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page118" id="page118"></a><span class="left">[page 118]</span> + + +<h3>XIV</h3> + +<h2>SHOPPING<a name="XIV1r" id="XIV1r"></a><a href="#XIV1"><sup>*</sup></a></h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Debt destroys religion."</p> +<p class="rindent"> + <i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +If any should imagine that time is money in +Morocco, let them undertake a shopping expedition +in Tangier, the town on which, if anywhere in +Morocco, occidental energy has set its seal. Not +that one such excursion will suffice, unless, indeed, +the purchaser be of the class who have more money +than wit, or who are absolutely at the mercy of the +guide and interpreter who pockets a commission +upon every bargain he brings about. For the +ordinary mortal, who wants to spread his dollars as +far as it is possible for dollars to go, a tour of inspection, +if not two or three, will be necessary +before such a feat can be accomplished. To be +sure, there is always the risk that between one +visit and another some coveted article may find +its way into the hands of a more reckless, or at +least less thrifty, purchaser, but that risk may be +safely taken.</p> + +<br /><a name="shopkeeper" id="shopkeeper"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/118.jpg"><img src="images/118-277.jpg" width="277" height="430" alt="A TUNISIAN SHOPKEEPER." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Albert, Photo., Tunis.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A TUNISIAN SHOPKEEPER.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +There is something very attractive in the small +cupboard-like shops of the main street. Their<a name="page119" id="page119"></a><span class="left">[page 119]</span> +owners sit cross-legged ready for a chat, looking +wonderfully picturesque in cream-coloured jelláb, or in +semi-transparent white farrajîyah, or tunic, allowing +at the throat a glimpse of saffron, cerise, or green +from the garment beneath. The white turban, beneath +which shows a line of red Fez cap, serves as +a foil to the clear olive complexion and the dark +eyes and brows, while the faces are in general goodly +to look upon, except where the lines have grown +coarse and sensuous.</p> +<p> +So strong is the impression of elegant leisure, +that it is difficult to imagine that these men expect +to make a living from their trade, but they are +more than willing to display their goods, and will +doubtless invite you to a seat upon the shop ledge—where +your feet dangle gracefully above a rough +cobble-stone pavement—and sometimes even to a +cup of tea. One after another, in quick succession, +carpets of different dimensions (but all oblong, for +Moorish rooms are narrow in comparison with their +length) are spread out in the street, and the shop-owners' +satellite, by reiterated cries of "Bálak! +Bálak!" (Mind out! Mind out!) accompanied by +persuasive pushes, keeps off the passing donkeys. +A miniature crowd of interested spectators will +doubtless gather round you, making remarks upon +you and your purchases. Charmed by the artistic +colourings, rich but never garish, you ask the +price, and if you are wise you will immediately offer +just half of that named. It is quite probable that +the carpets will be folded up and returned to their +places upon the shelf at the back of the shop, but it +is equally probable that by slow and tactful yielding +upon either side, interspersed with curses upon your<a name="page120" id="page120"></a><span class="left">[page 120]</span> +ancestors and upon yourself, the bargain will be +struck about halfway between the two extremes.</p> +<p> +The same method must be adopted with every +article bought, and if you purpose making many +purchases in the same shop, you will be wise to obtain +and write down the price quoted in each case as "the +<i>very</i> lowest," and make your bid for the whole at +once, lest, made cunning by one experience of your +tactics, the shopman should put on a wider marginal +profit in every other instance to circumvent you. +It is also well for the purchaser to express ardent +admiration in tones of calm indifference, for the +Moor has quick perceptions, and though he may +not understand English, when enthusiasm is apparent, +he has the key to the situation, and refuses to +lower his prices.</p> +<p> +Nevertheless, it is sometimes difficult to avoid a +warm expression of admiration at the handsome +brass trays, the Morocco leather bags into which +such charming designs of contrasting colours are +skilfully introduced, or the graceful utensils of +copper and brass with which a closer acquaintance +was made when you were the guest at a Moorish +dinner. Many and interesting are the curious trifles +which may be purchased, but they will be found in +the greatest profusion in the bazaars established for +the convenience of Nazarene tourists, where prices +will frequently be named in English money, for an +English "yellow-boy" is nowhere better appreciated +than in Tangier.</p> +<p> +In the shops in the sôk, or market-place, prices +are sometimes more moderate, and there you may +discover some of the more distinctively Moorish +articles, which are brought in from the country; +<a name="page121" id="page121"></a><span class="left">[page 121]</span> +nor can there be purchased a more interesting +memento than a flint-lock, a pistol, or a carved +dagger, all more or less elaborately decorated, such +as are carried by town or country Moor, the former +satisfied with a dagger in its chased sheath, except +at the time of "powder-play," when flint-locks are +in evidence everywhere.</p> +<p> +But in the market-place there are exposed for +sale the more perishable things of Moorish living. +Some of the small cupboards are grocers' shops, +where semolina for the preparation of kesk'soo, +the national dish, may be purchased, as well as +candles for burning at the saints' shrines, and a +multitude of small necessaries for the Moorish +housewives. In the centre of the market sit the +bread-sellers, for the most part women whose faces +are supposed to be religiously kept veiled from the +gaze of man, but who are apt to let their háïks +fall back quite carelessly when only Europeans +are near. An occasional glimpse may sometimes +be thus obtained of a really pretty face of some +lass on the verge of womanhood.</p> +<p> +Look at that girl in front of us, stooping over +the stall of a vendor of what some one has dubbed +"sticky nastinesses," her háïk lightly thrown +back; her bent form and the tiny hand protruding +at her side show that she is not alone, her +little baby brother proving almost as much as +she can carry. Her teeth are pearly white; her +hair and eyebrows are jet black; her nut-brown +cheeks bear a pleasant smile, and as she stretches +out one hand to give the "confectioner" a few +coppers, with the other clutching at her escaping +garment, and moves on amongst the crowd, we +<a name="page122" id="page122"></a><span class="left">[page 122]</span> +come to the conclusion that if not fair, she is at +least comely.</p> +<p> +The country women seated on the ground with +their wares form a nucleus for a dense crowd. They +have carried in upon their backs heavy loads of +grass for provender, or firewood and charcoal which +they sell in wholesale quantities to the smaller shopkeepers, +who purchase from other countryfolk +donkey loads of ripe melons and luscious black +figs.</p> +<p> +There is a glorious inconsequence in the +arrangement of the wares. Here you may see a +pile of women's garments exposed for sale, and not +far away are sweet-sellers with honey-cakes and +other unattractive but toothsome delicacies. If +you can catch a glimpse of the native brass-workers +busily beating out artistic designs upon +trays of different sizes and shapes, do not fail to +seize the opportunity of watching them. You may +form one in the ring gathered round the snake-charmer, +or join the circle which listens open-mouthed +and with breathless attention to that story-teller, +who breaks off at a most critical juncture in +his narrative to shake his tambourine, declaring +that so close-fisted an audience does not deserve to +hear another word, much less the conclusion of his +fascinating tale.</p> +<p> +But before you join either party, indeed before +you mingle at all freely in the crowd upon a +Moorish market-place, it is well to remember that +the flea is a common domestic insect, impartial in +the distribution of his favours to Moor, Jew and +Nazarene, and is in fact not averse to "fresh fields +and pastures new."</p> + +<a name="page123" id="page123"></a><span class="left">[page 123]</span> +<p> +If you are clad in perishable garments, beware +of the water-carrier with his goat-skin, his tinkling +bell, his brass cup, and his strange cry. Beware, +too, of the strings of donkeys with heavily laden +packs, and do not scruple to give them a forcible +push out of your way. If you are mounted upon +a donkey yourself, so much the better; by watching +the methods of your donkey-boy to ensure a clear +passage for his beast, you will realize that dwellers +in Barbary are not strangers to the spirit of the +saying, "Each man for himself, and the de'il take +the hindmost."</p> +<p> +Yet they are a pleasant crowd to be amongst, +in spite of insect-life, water-carriers, and bulky pack-saddles, +and there is an exhaustless store of interest, +not alone in the wares they have for sale, and in +the trades they ply, but more than all in the faces, +so often keen and alert, and still more often bright +and smiling.</p> +<p> +One typical example of Moorish methods of +shopping, and I have done. Among those who +make their money by trade, you may find a man +who spends his time in bringing the would-be +purchaser into intimate relations with the article +he desires to obtain. He has no shop of his own, +but may often be recognized as an interested +spectator of some uncompleted bargain. Having +discovered your dwelling-place, he proceeds to +"bring the mountain to Mohammed," and you will +doubtless be confronted in the court-yard of your +hotel by the very article for which you have been +seeking in vain. Of course he expects a good price +which shall ensure him a profit of at least fifty per +cent. upon his expenditure, but he too is open to a<a name="page124" id="page124"></a><span class="left">[page 124]</span> +bargain, and a little skilful pointing out of flaws in +the article which he has brought for purchase, in a +tone of calm and supreme indifference, is apt to +ensure a very satisfactory reduction of price in +favour of the shopper in Barbary.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XIV1" id="XIV1"></a> +<a href="#XIV1r">*</a> Contributed by my wife.—B. M.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page125" id="page125"></a><span class="left">[page 125]</span> + +<h3>XV</h3> + +<h2>A SUNDAY MARKET</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"A climb with a friend is a descent."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +One of the sights of Tangier is its market. Sundays +and Thursdays, when the weather is fine, see the +disused portion of the Mohammedan graveyard +outside <i>Báb el Fahs</i> (called by the English Port St. +Catherine, and now known commonly as the Sôk +Gate) crowded with buyers and sellers of most +quaint appearance to the foreign eye, not to mention +camels, horses, mules, and donkeys, or the goods +they have brought. Hither come the sellers from +long distances, trudging all the way on foot, laden +or not, according to means, all eager to exchange +their goods for European manufacturers, or to carry +home a few more dollars to be buried with their +store.</p> +<p> +Sunday is no Sabbath for the sons of Israel, so +the money-changers are doing a brisk trade from +baskets of filthy native bronze coin, the smallest of +which go five hundred to the shilling, and the +largest three hundred and thirty-three! Hard by +a venerable rabbi is leisurely cutting the throats +of fowls brought to him for the purpose by the +servants or children of Jews, after the careful inspection +enjoined by the Mosaic law. The old<a name="page126" id="page126"></a><span class="left">[page 126]</span> +gentleman has the coolest way of doing it imaginable; +he might be only peeling an orange for the +little girl who stands waiting. After apparently all +but turning the victim inside out, he twists back its +head under its wings, folding these across its breast +as a handle, and with his free hand removing his +razor-like knife from his mouth, nearly severs its +neck and hands it to the child, who can scarcely +restrain its struggles except by putting her foot on +it, while he mechanically wipes his blade and prepares +to despatch another.</p> +<p> +Eggs and milk are being sold a few yards off by +country women squatted on the ground, the former +in baskets or heaps on the stones, the latter in uninviting +red jars, with a round of prickly-pear leaf +for a stopper, and a bit of palmetto rope for a +handle.</p> +<p> +By this time we are in the midst of a perfect +Babel—a human maëlstrom. In a European crowd +one is but crushed by human beings; here all +sorts of heavily laden quadrupeds, with packs often +four feet across, come jostling past, sometimes with +the most unsavoury loads. We have just time to +observe that more country women are selling +walnuts, vegetables, and fruits, on our left, at the +door of what used to be the tobacco and hemp +fandak, and that native sweets, German knick-knacks +and Spanish fruit are being sold on our +right, as amid the din of forges on either side +we find ourselves in the midst of the crush to get +through the narrow gate.</p> +<p> +Here an exciting scene ensues. Continuous +streams of people and beasts of burden are pushing +both ways; a drove of donkeys laden with rough<a name="page127" id="page127"></a><span class="left">[page 127]</span> +bundles of cork-wood for the ovens approaches, +the projecting ends prodding the passers-by; +another drove laden with stones tries to pass +them, while half a dozen mules and horses vainly +endeavour to pass out. A European horseman +trots up and makes the people fly, but not so the +beasts, till he gets wedged in the midst, and must +bide his time after all. Meanwhile one is almost +deafened by the noise of shouting, most of it good-humoured. +"Zeed! Arrah!" vociferates the +donkey-driver. "Bálak!" shouts the horseman. +"Bálak! Guarda!" (pronounced warda) in a louder +key comes from a man who is trying to pilot a +Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary +through the gate, with Her Excellency on his +arm.</p> +<p> +At last we seize a favourable opportunity and +are through. Now we can breathe. In front of +us, underneath an arch said to have been built to +shelter the English guard two hundred years ago +(which is very unlikely, since the English destroyed +the fortifications of this gate), we see the native +shoeing-smiths hacking at the hoofs of horses, +mules, and donkeys, in a manner most extraordinary +to us, and nailing on triangular plates with holes in +the centre—though most keep a stock of English +imported shoes and nails for the fastidious Nazarenes. +Spanish and Jewish butchers are driving a +roaring trade at movable stalls made of old boxes, +and the din is here worse than ever.</p> +<p> +Now we turn aside into the vegetable market, +as it is called, though as we enter we are almost +sickened by the sight of more butchers' stalls, and +further on by putrid fish. This market is typical.<a name="page128" id="page128"></a><span class="left">[page 128]</span> +Low thatched booths of branches and canes are +the only shops but those of the butchers, the arcade +which surrounds the interior of the building being +chiefly used for stores. Here and there a filthy +rag is stretched across the crowded way to keep +the sun off, and anon we have to stop to avoid +some drooping branch. Fruit and vegetables of +all descriptions in season are sold amid the most +good-humoured haggling.</p> +<p> +Emerging from this interesting scene by a gate +leading to the outer sôk, we come to one quite +different in character. A large open space is +packed with country people, their beasts and their +goods, and towns-people come out to purchase. +Women seem to far outnumber the men, doubtless +on account of their size and their conspicuous head-dress. +They are almost entirely enveloped in +white háïks, over the majority of which are thrown +huge native sun-hats made of palmetto, with four +coloured cords by way of rigging to keep the brim +extended. When the sun goes down these are to +be seen slung across the shoulders instead. Very +many of the women have children slung on their +backs, or squatting on their hips if big enough. +This causes them to stoop, especially if some other +burden is carried on their shoulders as well.</p> + +<br /><a name="market" id="market"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/128.jpg"><img src="images/128-500.jpg" width="499" height="306" alt="THE SUNDAY MARKET, TANGIER." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>THE SUNDAY MARKET, TANGIER.</b> +</p><br /><br /> +<p> +On our right are typical Moorish shops,—grocers', +if you please,—in which are exposed to +view an assortment of dried fruits, such as nuts, +raisins, figs, etc., with olive and argan oil, candles, +tea, sugar, and native soap and butter. Certainly +of all the goods that butter is the least inviting; +the soap, though the purest of "soft," looks a +horribly repulsive mass, but the butter which, like<a name="page129" id="page129"></a><span class="left">[page 129]</span> +it, is streaked all over with finger marks, is in +addition full of hairs. Similar shops are perched +on our left, where old English biscuit-boxes are +conspicuous.</p> +<p> +Beyond these come slipper- and clothes-menders. +The former are at work on native slippers of such +age that they would long ago have been thrown +away in any less poverty-stricken land, transforming +them into wearable if unsightly articles, +after well soaking them in earthen pans. Just here +a native "medicine man" dispenses nostrums of +doubtful efficacy, and in front a quantity of red +Moorish pottery is exposed for sale. This consists +chiefly of braziers for charcoal and kesk'soo steamers +for stewing meat and vegetables as well.</p> +<p> +A native <i>café</i> here attracts our attention. Under +the shade of a covered way the káhwajî has a +brazier on which he keeps a large kettle of water +boiling. A few steps further on we light upon the +sellers of native salt. This is in very large crystals, +heaped in mule panniers, from which the dealers +mete it out in wooden measures. It comes from +along the beach near Old Tangier, where the heaps +can be seen from the town, glistening in the sunlight. +Ponds are dug along the shore, in which +sea water is enclosed by miniature dykes, and on +evaporating leaves the salt.</p> +<p> +Pressing on with difficulty through a crowd of +horses, mules and donkeys, mostly tethered by +their forefeet, we reach some huts in front of which +are the most gorgeous native waistcoats exposed +for sale, together with Manchester goods, by fat, +ugly old women of a forbidding aspect. Further +on we come upon "confectioners." A remarkable<a name="page130" id="page130"></a><span class="left">[page 130]</span> +peculiarity of the tables on which the sweets are +being sold in front of us is the total absence of flies, +though bees abound, in spite of the lazy whisking +of the sweet-seller. The sweets themselves consist +of red, yellow and white sticks of what Cousin +Jonathan calls "candy;" almond and gingelly rock, +all frizzling in the sun. A small basin, whose +contents resemble a dark plum-pudding full of +seeds, contains a paste of the much-lauded hasheesh, +the opiate of Morocco, which, though contraband, +and strictly prohibited by Imperial decrees, is being +freely purchased in small doses.</p> +<p> +On the opposite side of the way some old +Spaniards are selling a kind of coiled-up fritter by +the yard, swimming in oil. Then we come to a +native restaurant. Trade does not appear very +brisk, so we shall not interrupt it by pausing for a +few moments to watch the cooking. In a tiny +lean-to of sticks and thatch two men are at work. +One is cutting up liver and what would be flead if +the Moors ate pigs, into pieces about the size of a +filbert. These the other threads on skewers in +alternate layers, three or four of each. Having +rolled them in a basin of pepper and salt, they are +laid across an earthen pot resembling a log scooped +out, like some primæval boat. In the bottom of +the hollow is a charcoal fire, which causes the +khotbán, as they are called, to give forth a most +appetizing odour—the only thing tempting about +them after seeing them made. Half loaves of +native bread lie ready to hand, and the hungry +passer-by is invited to take an <i>al fresco</i> meal for +the veriest trifle. Another sort of kabáb—for such +is the name of the preparation—is being made from<a name="page131" id="page131"></a><span class="left">[page 131]</span> +a large wash-basin full of ready seasoned minced +meat, small handfuls of which the jovial <i>chef</i> adroitly +plasters on more skewers, cooking them like the +others.</p> +<p> +Squatted on the ground by the side of this +"bar" is a retailer of ripened native butter, "warranted +five years old." This one can readily smell +without stooping; it is in an earthenware pan, and +looks very dirty, but is weighed out by the ounce +as very precious after being kept so long underground.</p> +<p> +Opposite is the spot where the camels from and +for the interior load and unload. Some forty of +these ungainly but useful animals are here congregated +in groups. At feeding-time a cloth is +spread on the ground, on which a quantity of barley +is poured in a heap. Each animal lies with its legs +doubled up beneath it in a manner only possible +to camels, with its head over the food, munching +contentedly. In one of the groups we notice the +driver beating his beast to make it kneel down +preparatory to the removal of its pack, some two +hundred-weight and a half. After sundry unpleasant +sounds, and tramping backwards and +forwards to find a comfortable spot, the gawky +creature settles down in a stately fashion, packing +up his stilt-like legs in regular order, limb after +limb, till he attains the desired position. A short +distance off one of them is making hideous noises +by way of protest against the weight of the load +being piled upon him, threatening to lose his +temper, and throw a little red bladder out of his +mouth, which, hanging there as he breathes excitedly, +makes a most unpleasing sound.</p> + +<a name="page132" id="page132"></a><span class="left">[page 132]</span> +<p> +Here one of the many water-carriers who have +crossed our path does so again, tinkling his little +bell of European manufacture, and we turn to watch +him as he gives a poor lad to drink. Slung across +his back is the "bottle" of the East—a goat-skin +with the legs sewn up. A long metal spout is tied +into the neck, and on this he holds his left thumb, +which he uses as a tap by removing it to aim a long +stream of water into the tin mug in his right hand. +Two bright brass cups cast and engraved in Fez +hang from a chain round his neck, but these are +reserved for purchasers, the urchin who is now +enjoying a drink receiving it as charity. Tinkle, +tinkle, goes the bell again, as the weary man moves +on with his ever-lightening burden, till he is confronted +by another wayfarer who turns to him to +quench his thirst. As these skins are filled indiscriminately +from wells and tanks, and cleaned inside +with pitch, the taste must not be expected to satisfy +all palates; but if hunger is the best sauce for food, +thirst is an equal recommendation for drink.</p> +<p> +A few minutes' walk across a cattle-market +brings us at last to the English church, a tasteful +modern construction in pure Moorish style, and +banishing the thoughts of our stroll, we join the +approaching group of fellow-worshippers, for after +all it is Sunday.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page133" id="page133"></a><span class="left">[page 133]</span> + +<h3>XVI</h3> + +<h2>PLAY-TIME</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"According to thy shawl stretch thy leg."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Few of us realize to what an extent our amusements, +pastimes, and recreations enter into the +formation of our individual, and consequently of our +national, character. It is therefore well worth our +while to take a glance at the Moor at play, or as +near play as he ever gets. The stately father of a +family must content himself, as his years and flesh +increase, with such amusements as shall not entail +exertion. By way of house game, since cards and +all amusements involving chance are strictly forbidden, +chess reigns supreme, and even draughts—with +which the denizens of the coffee-house, where +he would not be seen, disport themselves—are +despised by him. In Shiráz, however, the Sheïkh ul +Islám, or chief religious authority, declared himself +shocked when I told him how often I had played +this game with Moorish theologians, whereupon +ensued a warm discussion as to whether it was a +game of chance. At last I brought this to a satisfactory +close by remarking that as his reverence was +ignorant even of the rules of the game,—and therefore +no judge, since he had imagined it to be based +on hazard,—he at least was manifestly innocent of it.</p> + +<a name="page134" id="page134"></a><span class="left">[page 134]</span> +<p> +The connection between chess and Arabdom +should not be forgotten, especially as the very word +with which it culminates, "checkmate," is but a +corruption of the Arabic "sheïkh mát"—"chief +dead." The king of games is, however, rare on +the whole, requiring too much concentration for a +weary or lazy official, or a merchant after a busy +day. Their method of playing does not materially +differ from ours, but they play draughts with very +much more excitement and fun. The jocular vituperation +which follows a successful sally, and the +almost unintelligible rapidity with which the moves +are made, are as novel to the European as appreciated +by the natives.</p> +<p> +Gossip, the effervescence of an idle brain, is the +prevailing pastime, and at no afternoon tea-table in +Great Britain is more aimless talk indulged in than +while the cup goes round among the Moors. The +ladies, with a more limited scope, are not far +behind their lords in this respect. Otherwise their +spare time is devoted to minutely fine embroidery. +This is done in silk on a piece of calico or linen +tightly stretched on a frame, and is the same on +both sides; in this way are ornamented curtains, +pillow-cases, mattress-covers, etc. It is, nevertheless, +considered so far a superfluity that few who +have not abundant time to spare trouble about +it, and the material decorated is seldom worth the +labour bestowed thereon.</p> +<p> +The fact is that in these southern latitudes as +little time as possible is passed within doors, and +for this reason we must seek the real amusements +of the people outside. When at home they seem +to think it sufficient to loll about all the day long if<a name="page135" id="page135"></a><span class="left">[page 135]</span> +not at work, especially if they have an enclosed +flower-garden, beautifully wild and full of green and +flowers, with trickling, splashing water. I exclude, +of course, all feasts and times when the musicians +come, but I must not omit mention of dancing. +Easterns think their western friends mad to dance +themselves, when they can so easily get others to +do it for them, so they hire a number of women to +go through all manner of quaint—too often indecent—posings +and wrigglings before them, to the tune +of a nasal chant, which, aided by fiddles, banjos, +and tambourines, is being drawled out by the +musicians. Some of these seemingly inharmonious +productions are really enjoyable when one gets into +the spirit of the thing.</p> +<p> +At times the Moors are themselves full of life +and vigour, especially in the enjoyment of what +may be called the national sport of "powder-play," +not to speak of boar-hunting, hawking, rabbit-chasing, +and kindred pastimes. Just as in the days of +yore their forefathers excelled in the use of the +spear, brandishing and twirling it as easily as an +Indian club or singlestick, so they excel to-day in +the exercise of their five-foot flint-locks, performing +the most dexterous feats on horseback at full gallop.</p> +<p> +Here is such a display about to commence. It +is the feast of Mohammed's birthday, and the +market-place outside the gate, so changed since +yesterday, is crowded with spectators; men and +boys in gay, but still harmonious, colours, decked +out for the day, and women shrouded in their +blankets, plain wool-white. An open space is left +right through the centre, up a gentle slope, and a +dozen horsemen are spurring and holding in their<a name="page136" id="page136"></a><span class="left">[page 136]</span> +prancing steeds at yonder lower end. At some unnoticed +signal they have started towards us. They +gallop wildly, the beat of their horses' hoofs sounding +as iron hail on the stony way. A cloud of dust flies +upward, and before we are aware of it they are +abreast of us—a waving, indistinguishable mass of +flowing robes, of brandished muskets, and of straining, +foaming steeds. We can just see them tossing +their guns in the air, and then a rider, bolder than +the rest, stands on his saddle, whirling round his +firearm aloft without stopping, while another swings +his long weapon underneath his horse, and seizes +it upon the other side. But now they are in line +again, and every gun is pointed over the right, +behind the back, the butt grasped by the twisted +left arm, and the lock by the right under the left +armpit. In this constrained position they fire at an +imaginary foe who is supposed to have appeared +from ambush as they pass. Immediately the reins—which +have hitherto been held in the mouth, the +steed guided by the feet against his gory flanks—are +pulled up tight, throwing the animal upon his +haunches, and wheeling him round for a sober walk +back.</p> +<p> +This is, in truth, a practice or drill for war, for +such is the method of fighting in these parts. A +sortie is made to seek the hidden foe, who may start +up anywhere from the ravines or boulders, and who +must be aimed at instanter, before he regains his +cover, while those who have observed him must as +quickly as possible get beyond his range to reload +and procure reinforcements.</p> +<p> +The only other active sports of moment, apart +from occasional horse races, are football and fencing,<a name="page137" id="page137"></a><span class="left">[page 137]</span> +indulged in by boys. The former is played with a +stuffed leather ball some six or eight inches across, +which is kicked into the air with the back of the +heel, and caught in the hands, the object being to +drive it as high as possible. The fencing is only +remarkable for its free and easy style, and the +absence of hilts and guards.</p> +<p> +Yet there are milder pastimes in equal favour, +and far more in accordance with the fancy of +southerners in warm weather, such as watching a +group of jugglers or snake-charmers, or listening +to a story-teller. These are to be met with in the +market-place towards the close of hot and busy days, +when the wearied bargainers gather in groups to +rest before commencing the homeward trudge. +The jugglers are usually poor, the production of +fire from the mouth, of water from an empty jar, +and so on, forming stock items. But often fearful +realities are to be seen—men who in a frenzied state +catch cannon balls upon their heads, blood spurting +out on every side; or, who stick skewers through +their legs. These are religious devotees who live +by such performances. From the public <i>raconteur</i> +the Moor derives the excitement the European +finds in his novel, or the tale "to be continued in +our next," and it probably does him less harm.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page138" id="page138"></a><span class="left">[page 138]</span> + + +<h3>XVII</h3> + +<h2>THE STORY-TELLER</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Gentleman without reading, dog without scent."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +The story-teller is, <i>par excellence</i>, the prince of +Moorish performers. Even to the stranger unacquainted +with the language the sight of the Arab +bard and his attentive audience on some erstwhile +bustling market at the ebbing day is full of interest—to +the student of human nature a continual attraction. +After a long trudge from home, commenced +before dawn, and a weary haggling over +the most worthless of "coppers" during the heat of +the day, the poor folk are quite ready for a quiet +resting-time, with something to distract their minds +and fill them with thoughts for the homeward way. +Here have been fanned and fed the great religious +and political movements which from time to time +have convulsed the Empire, and here the pulse of +the nation throbs. In the cities men lead a different +life, and though the townsfolk appreciate tales as +well as any, it is on these market-places that the +wandering troubadour gathers the largest crowds.</p> +<p> +Like public performers everywhere, a story-teller +of note always goes about with regular +assistants, who act as summoners to his entertainment, +and as chorus to his songs. They consist<a name="page139" id="page139"></a><span class="left">[page 139]</span> +usually of a player on the native fiddle, another +who keeps time on a tambourine, and a third who +beats a kind of earthenware drum with his fingers. +Less pretentious "professors" are content with +themselves manipulating a round or square tambourine +or a two-stringed fiddle, and to many this +style has a peculiar charm of its own. Each pause, +however slight, is marked by two or three sharp +beats on the tightly stretched skin, or twangs with +a palmetto leaf plectrum, loud or soft, according +to the subject of the discourse at that point. The +dress of this class—the one most frequently met +with—is usually of the plainest, if not of the +scantiest; a tattered brown jelláb (a hooded woollen +cloak) and a camel's-hair cord round the tanned +and shaven skull are the garments which strike the +eye. Waving bare arms and sinewy legs, with a +wild, keen-featured face, lit up by flashing eyes, +complete the picture.</p> +<p> +This is the man from whom to learn of love +and fighting, of beautiful women and hairbreadth +escapes, the whole on the model of the "Thousand +Nights and a Night," of which versions more or +less recognizable may now and again be heard from +his lips. Commencing with plenty of tambourine, +and a few suggestive hints of what is to follow, he +gathers around him a motley audience, the first +comers squatting in a circle, and later arrivals +standing behind. Gradually their excitement is +aroused, and as their interest grows, the realistic +semi-acting and the earnest mien of the performer +rivet every eye upon him. Suddenly his wild +gesticulations cease at the entrancing point. One +step more for liberty, one blow, and the charming<a name="page140" id="page140"></a><span class="left">[page 140]</span> +prize would be in the possession of her adorer. +Now is the time to "cash up." With a pious +reference to "our lord Mohammed—the prayer of +God be on him, and peace,"—and an invocation of a +local patron saint or other equally revered defunct, +an appeal is made to the pockets of the Faithful +"for the sake of Mulai Abd el Káder"—"Lord +Slave-of-the-Able." Arousing as from a trance, +the eager listeners instinctively commence to feel +in their pockets for the balance from the day's +bargaining; and as every blessing from the legion +of saints who would fill the Mohammedan calendar +if there were one is invoked on the cheerful giver, +one by one throws down his hard-earned coppers—one +or two—and as if realizing what he has parted +with, turns away with a long-drawn breath to untether +his beasts, and set off home.</p> +<p> +But exciting as are these acknowledged fictions, +specimens are so familiar to most readers from the +pages of the collection referred to that much more +interest will be felt in an attempt to reproduce one +of a higher type, pseudo-historical, and alleged to +be true. Such narratives exhibit much of native +character, and shades of thought unencountered +save in daily intercourse with the people. Let us, +therefore, seize the opportunity of a visit from a +noted <i>raconteur</i> and reputed poet to hear his story. +Tame, indeed, would be the result of an endeavour +to transfer to black and white the animated tones +and gestures of the narrator, which the imagination +of the reader must supply.</p> + +<br /><a name="performers" id="performers"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/141.jpg"><img src="images/141-500.jpg" width="500" height="328" alt="GROUP AROUND PERFORMERS, MARRÁKESH." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by A. Lennox, Esq.</i><br /><br /> +<b>GROUP AROUND PERFORMERS, MARRÁKESH.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +The initial "voluntary" by the "orchestra" has +ended; every eye is directed towards the central +figure, this time arrayed in ample turban, white<a name="page141" id="page141"></a><span class="left">[page 141]</span> +jelláb and yellow slippers, with a face betokening +a lucrative profession. After a moment's silence he +commences the history of—</p> + + +<h4>"<span class="sc">Mulai Abd el Káder and the Monk Of Monks</span>."</h4> +<p> +"The thrones of the Nazarenes were once in +number sixty, but the star of the Prophet of God—the +prayer of God be on him, and peace—was in the +ascendant, and the religion of Resignation [Islám] +was everywhere victorious. Many of the occupiers +of those thrones had either submitted to the +Lieutenant ['Caliph'] of our Lord, and become +Muslimeen, or had been vanquished by force of +arms. The others were terrified, and a general +assembly was convoked to see what was to be done. +As the rulers saw they were helpless against the +decree of God, they called for their monks to advise +them. The result of the conference was that it was +decided to invite the Resigned Ones (Muslimeen) to +a discussion on their religious differences, on the +understanding that whichever was victorious should +be thenceforth supreme.</p> +<p> +"The Leader of the Faithful having summoned +his wise men, their opinion was asked. 'O victorious +of God,' they with one voice replied, 'since God, +the High and Blessed, is our King, what have we +to fear? Having on our side the truth revealed in +the "Book to be Read" [the Korán] by the hand +of the Messenger of God—the prayer of God be on +him, and peace—we <i>must</i> prevail. Let us willingly +accept their proposal.' An early day was accordingly +fixed for the decisive contest, and each party +marshalled its forces. At the appointed time they +met, a great crowd on either side, and it was asked +which should begin. Knowing that victory was on +his side, the Lieutenant of the Prophet—the prayer +<a name="page142" id="page142"></a><span class="left">[page 142]</span> +of God be on him, and peace—replied, 'Since ye +have desired this meeting, open ye the discussion.'</p> +<p> +"Then the chief of the Nazarene kings made +answer, 'But we are here so many gathered together, +that if we commence to dispute all round we shall +not finish by the Judgement Day. Let each party +therefore choose its wisest man, and let the two +debate before us, the remainder judging the result.'</p> +<p> +"'Well hast thou spoken,' said the Leader of +the Faithful; 'be it even so.' Then the learned +among the Resigned selected our lord Abd el +Káder of Baghdad,<a name="XVII1r" id="XVII1r"></a><a href="#XVII1"><sup>*</sup></a> a man renowned the world over +for piety and for the depth of his learning. Now a +prayer [Fátihah] for Mulai Abd el Káder!"</p> +<p> +Here the speaker, extending his open palms side +by side before him, as if to receive a blessing +thereon, is copied by the by-standers.<a name="XVII2r" id="XVII2r"></a><a href="#XVII2"><sup>†</sup></a> "In the +name of God, the Pitying, the Pitiful!" All draw +their hands down their faces, and, if they boast +beards, end by stroking them out.</p> +<p> +"Then the polytheists<a name="XVII3r" id="XVII3r"></a><a href="#XVII3"><sup>‡</sup></a> likewise chose their +man, one held among them in the highest esteem, +well read and wise, a monk of monks. Between +these two, then, the controversy commenced. As +already agreed, the Nazarene was the first to +question:</p> +<p> +"'How far is it from the Earth to the first +heaven?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'And thence to the second heaven?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'Thence to the third?'</p> + +<a name="page143" id="page143"></a><span class="left">[page 143]</span> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'Thence to the fourth?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'Thence to the fifth?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'Thence to the sixth?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'Thence to the seventh?'</p> +<p> +"'Five hundred years.'</p> +<p> +"'And from Mekka to Jerusalem?'</p> +<p> +"'Forty days.'</p> +<p> +"'Add up the whole.'</p> +<p> +"'Three thousand, five hundred years, and forty +days.'</p> +<p> +"'In his famous ride on El Borak [Lightning] +where did Mohammed go?'</p> +<p> +"'From the Sacred Temple [of Mekka] to the +Further Temple [of Jerusalem], and from the Holy +House [Jerusalem] to the seventh heaven, and the +presence of God.'<a name="XVII4r" id="XVII4r"></a><a href="#XVII4"><sup>§</sup></a></p> +<p> +"'How long did this take?'</p> +<p> +"'The tenth of one night.'</p> +<p> +"'Did he find his bed still warm on his return?'</p> +<p> +"'Yes.'</p> +<p> +"'Dost thou think such a thing possible; to +travel three thousand five hundred years and back, +and find one's bed still warm on returning?'</p> +<p> +"'Canst thou play chess?' then asked Mulai +Abd el Káder.</p> +<p> +"'Of course I can,' said the monk, surprised.</p> +<p> +"'Then, wilt thou play with me?'</p> +<p> +"'Certainly not,' replied the monk, indignantly. +'Dost thou think me a fool, to come here to discuss +the science of religion, and to be put off with a +game of chess?'</p> + +<a name="page144" id="page144"></a><span class="left">[page 144]</span> +<p> +"'Then thou acknowledgest thyself beaten; +thou hast said thou couldst play chess, yet thou +darest not measure thy skill at it with me. Thy +refusal proves thy lie.'</p> +<p> +"'Nay, then, since thou takest it that way, I +will consent to a match, but under protest.'</p> +<p> +"So the board was brought, and the players +seated themselves. Move, move, move, went the +pieces; kings and queens, elephants, rooks, and +knights, with the soldiers everywhere. One by one +they disappeared, as the fight grew fast and furious. +But Mulai Abd el Káder had another object in +view than the routing of his antagonist at a game +of chess. By the exercise of his superhuman power +he transported the monk to 'the empty third' [of +the world], while his image remained before him at +the board, to all appearances still absorbed in the +contest.</p> +<p> +"Meanwhile the monk could not tell where he +was, but being oppressed with a sense of severe +thirst, rose from where he sat, and made for a rising +ground near by, whence he hoped to be able to +descry some signs of vegetation, which should +denote the presence of water. Giddy and tired out, +he approached the top, when what was his joy to +see a city surrounded by palms but a short way off! +With a cry of delight he quickened his steps and +approached the gate. As he did so, a party of +seven men in gorgeous apparel of wool and silk +came out of the gate, each with a staff in his hand.</p> +<p> +"On meeting him they offered him the salutation +of the Faithful, but he did not return it. 'Who +mayest <i>thou</i> be,' they asked, 'who dost not wish +peace to the Resigned?' [Muslimeen]. 'My Lords,' +he made answer, 'I am a monk of the Nazarenes, +I merely seek water to quench my thirst.'</p> +<p> +"'But he who comes here must resign himself +[to Mohammedanism] or suffer the consequences.<a name="page145" id="page145"></a><span class="left">[page 145]</span> +Testify that 'There is no god but God, and +Mohammed is His Messenger!' 'Never,' he replied; +and immediately they threw him on the +ground and flogged him with their staves till he +cried for mercy. 'Stop!' he implored. 'I will +testify.' No sooner had he done so than they +ceased their blows, and raising him up gave him +water to drink. Then, tearing his monkish robe to +shreds, each deprived himself of a garment to dress +him becomingly. Having re-entered the city they +repaired to the judge.</p> +<p> +"'My Lord,' they said, 'we bring before thee +a brother Resigned, once a monk of the monks, +now a follower of the Prophet, our lord—the +prayer of God be on him, and peace. We pray +thee to accept his testimony and record it in due +form.'</p> +<p> +"'Welcome to thee; testify!' exclaimed the +kádi, turning to the convert. Then, holding up +his forefinger, the quondam monk witnessed to the +truth of the Unity [of God]. 'Call for a barber!' +cried the kádi; and a barber was brought. Seven +Believers of repute stood round while the deed was +done, and the convert rose a circumcised Muslim—blessed +be God.</p> +<p> +"Then came forward a notable man of that +town, pious, worthy, and rich, respected of all, who +said, addressing the kádi: 'My Lord—may God +bless thy days,—thou knowest, all these worthy ones +know, who and what I am. In the interests of +religion and to the honour of God, I ask leave to +adopt this brother newly resigned. What is mine +shall be his to share with my own sons, and the care +I bestow on them and their education shall be +bestowed equally on him. God is witness.' 'Well +said; so be it,' replied the learned judge; 'henceforth +he is a member of thy family.'</p> +<p> +"So to the hospitable roof of this pious one<a name="page146" id="page146"></a><span class="left">[page 146]</span> +went the convert. A tutor was obtained for him, +and he commenced to taste the riches of the +wisdom of the Arab. Day after day he sat and +studied, toiling faithfully, till teacher after teacher +had to be procured, as he exhausted the stores of +each in succession. So he read: first the Book 'To +be Read' [the Korán], till he could repeat it faultlessly, +then the works of the poets, Kálûn, el Mikki, +el Bisri, and Sîdi Hamzah; then the 'Lesser' and +'Greater Ten.'<a name="XVII5r" id="XVII5r"></a><a href="#XVII5"><sup>||</sup></a> Then he commenced at Sîdi íbnu +Ashîr, following on through the Ajrûmiyah,<a name="XVII6r" id="XVII6r"></a><a href="#XVII6"><sup>#</sup></a> and +the Alfîyah,<a name="XVII7r" id="XVII7r"></a><a href="#XVII7"><sup>**</sup></a> to the commentaries of Sîdi Khalîl, of +the Sheïkh el Bokhári, and of Ibnu Asîm, till there +was nothing left to learn.</p> +<p> +"Thus he continued growing in wisdom and +honour, the first year, the second year, the third +year, even to the twentieth year, till no one could +compete with him. Then the Judge of Judges of +that country died, and a successor was sought for, +but all allowed that no one's claims equalled those +of the erstwhile monk. So he was summoned to fill +the post, but was disqualified as unmarried. When +they inquired if he was willing to do his duty in this +respect, and he replied that he was, the father of +the most beautiful girl in the city bestowed her on +him, and that she might not be portionless, the chief +men of the place vied one with another in heaping +riches upon him. So he became Judge of Judges, +rich, happy, revered.</p> +<p> +"And there was born unto him one son, then a +second son, and even a third son. And there was +born unto him a daughter, then a second daughter, +and even a third daughter. So he prospered and +increased. And to his sons were born sons, one, +two, three, and four, and daughters withal. And his<a name="page147" id="page147"></a><span class="left">[page 147]</span> +daughters were given in marriage to the elders of +that country, and with them it was likewise.</p> +<p> +"Now there came a day, a great feast day, when +all his descendants came before him with their compliments +and offerings, some small, some great, each +receiving tenfold in return, garments of fine spun +wool and silk, and other articles of value.</p> +<p> +"When the ceremony was over he went outside +the town to walk alone, and approached the spot +whence he had first descried what had so long +since been his home. As he sat again upon that +well-remembered spot, and glanced back at the +many years which had elapsed since last he was +there, a party of the Faithful drew near. He offered +the customary salute of 'Peace be on you,' but they +simply stared in return. Presently one of them +brusquely asked what he was doing there, and he +explained who he was. But they laughed incredulously, +and then he noticed that once again +he was clad in robe and cowl, with a cord round his +waist. They taunted him as a liar, but he re-affirmed +his statements, and related his history. He counted +up the years since he had resigned himself, telling +of his children and children's children.</p> +<p> +"'Wouldst thou know them if you sawst them?' +asked the strangers. 'Indeed I would,' was the +reply, 'but they would know me first.'</p> +<p> +"'And you are really circumcised? We'll see!' +was their next exclamation. Just then a caravan +appeared, wending its way across the plain, and the +travellers hailed it. As he looked up at the shout, +he saw Mulai Abd el Káder still sitting opposite +him at the chess-board, reminding him that it was +his move. He had been recounting his experiences +for the last half century to Mulai Abd el Káder +himself, and to the wise ones of both creeds who +surrounded them!</p> + +<a name="page148" id="page148"></a><span class="left">[page 148]</span> +<p> +"Indeed it was too true, and he had to acknowledge +that the events of a life-time had been crowded +into a period undefinably minute, by the God-sent +power of my lord Slave-of-the-Able [Mulai Abd +el Káder].</p> +<p> +"Now, where is the good man and true who +reveres the name of this holy one? Who will say +a prayer to Mulai Abd el Káder?" Here the +narrator extends his palms as before, and all follow +him in the motion of drawing them down his face. +"In the name of the Pitying and Pitiful! Now +another!" The performance is repeated.</p> +<p> +"Who is willing to yield himself wholly and +entirely to Mulai Abd el Káder? Who will dedicate +himself from the soles of his feet to the crown +of his head? Another prayer!" Another repetition +of the performance.</p> +<p> +"Now let those devoted men earn the effectual +prayers of that holy one by offering their silver in +his name. Nothing less than a peseta<a name="XVII8r" id="XVII8r"></a><a href="#XVII8"><sup>††</sup></a> will do. +That's right," as one of the bystanders throws +down the coin specified.</p> +<p> +"Now let us implore the blessing of God and +Mulai Abd el Káder on the head of this liberal +Believer." The palm performance is once more +gone through. The earnestness with which he +does it this time induces more to follow suit, and +blessings on them also are besought in the same +fashion.</p> +<p> +"Now, my friends, which among you will do +business with the palms of all these faithful ones? +Pay a peseta and buy the prayers of them all. +Now then, deal them out, and purchase happiness."</p> + +<p> +So the appeal goes wearisomely on. As no +more pesetas are seen to be forthcoming, a shift<a name="page149" id="page149"></a><span class="left">[page 149]</span> +is made with reals—nominally 2½<i>d.</i> pieces—the +story-teller asking those who cannot afford more +to make up first one dollar and then another, turning +naïvely to his assistant to ask if they haven't +obtained enough yet, as though it were all for them. +As they reply that more is needed, he redoubles +his appeals and prayers, threading his way in and +out among the crowd, making direct for each well-dressed +individual with a confidence which renders +flight or refusal a shame. Meanwhile the "orchestra" +has struck up, and only pauses when the "professor" +returns to the centre of the circle to call +on all present to unite in prayers for the givers. A +few coppers which have been tossed to his feet are +distributed scornfully amongst half a dozen beggars, +in various stages of filthy wretchedness and deformity, +who have collected on the ground at one +side.</p> +<p> +Here a water-carrier makes his appearance, +with his goat-skin "bottle" and tinkling bell—a +swarthy Soudanese in most tattered garb. The +players and many listeners having been duly refreshed +for the veriest trifle, the performance continues. +A prayer is even said for the solitary +European among the crowd, on his being successfully +solicited for his quota, and another for his +father at the request of some of the crowd, who +style him the "Friend of the Moors."</p> +<p> +At last a resort is made to coppers, and when +the story-teller condescendingly consents to receive +even such trifles in return for prayers, from those +who cannot afford more, quite a pattering shower +falls at his feet, which is supplemented by a further +hand-to-hand collection. In all, between four and<a name="page150" id="page150"></a><span class="left">[page 150]</span> +five dollars must have been received—not a bad +remuneration for an hour's work! Already the +ring has been thinning; now there is a general +uprising, and in a few moments the scene is completely +changed, the entertainer lost among the +entertained, for the sun has disappeared below yon +hill, and in a few moments night will fall.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII1" id="XVII1"></a> +<a href="#XVII1r">*</a> So called because buried near that city. For an account of his +life, and view of his mausoleum, see "The Moors," pp. 337-339.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII2" id="XVII2"></a> +<a href="#XVII2r">†</a> "The hands are raised in order to catch a blessing in them, and +are afterwards drawn over the face to transfer it to every part of the +body."—<span class="sc">Hughes</span>, "Dictionary of Islám."</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII3" id="XVII3"></a> +<a href="#XVII3r">‡</a> A term applied by Mohammedans to Christians on account of +a mistaken conception of the doctrine of the Trinity.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII4" id="XVII4"></a> +<a href="#XVII4r">§</a> This was the occasion on which Mohammed visited the seven +heavens under the care of Gabriel, riding on an ass so restive that he +had to be bribed with a promise of Paradise.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII5" id="XVII5"></a> +<a href="#XVII5r">||</a> Grammarians and commentators of the Korán.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII6" id="XVII6"></a> +<a href="#XVII6r">#</a> A preliminary work on rhetoric.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII7" id="XVII7"></a> +<a href="#XVII7r">**</a> The "Thousand Verses" of grammar.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVII8" id="XVII8"></a> +<a href="#XVII8r">††</a> About eightpence, a labourer's daily wage in Tangier.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page151" id="page151"></a><span class="left">[page 151]</span> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h3>XVIII</h3> + +<h2>SNAKE-CHARMING</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Whom a snake has bitten starts from a rope."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Descriptions of this art remembered in a book +for boys read years before had prepared me for +the most wonderful scenes, and when I first watched +the performance with snakes which delights the +Moors I was disappointed. Yet often as I might +look on, there was nothing else to see, save in the +faces and gestures of the crowd, who with child-like +simplicity followed every step as though for +the first time. These have for me a never-ending +fascination. Thus it is that the familiar sounds of +rapid and spasmodic beating on a tambourine, which +tell that the charmer is collecting an audience, +still prove an irresistible attraction for me as well. +The ring in which I find myself is just a reproduction +of that surrounding the story-teller of yester-e'en, +but where his musicians sat there is a wilder +group, more striking still in their appearance.</p> +<p> +This time, also, the instruments are of another +class, two or three of the plainest sheep-skin tambourines +with two gut strings across the centre under +the parchment, which gives them a peculiar twanging +sound; and a couple of reeds, mere canes +pierced with holes, each provided with a mouthpiece<a name="page152" id="page152"></a><span class="left">[page 152]</span> +made of half an inch of flattened reed. Nothing +is needed to add to the discord as all three are +vigorously plied with cheek and palm.</p> +<p> +The principal actor has an appearance of studied +weirdness as he gesticulates wildly and calls on God +to protect him against the venom of his pets. Contrary +to the general custom of the country, he has +let his black hair grow till it streams over his +shoulders in matted locks. His garb is of the +simplest, a dirty white shirt over drawers of similar +hue completing his outfit.</p> +<p> +Selecting a convenient stone as a seat, notebook +in hand, I make up my mind to see the thing +through. The "music" having continued five or +ten minutes with the desired result of attracting a +circle of passers-by, the actual performance is now +to commence. On the ground in the centre lies a +spare tambourine, and on one side are the two cloth-covered +bottle-shaped baskets containing the snakes.</p> +<p> +The chief charmer now advances, commencing +to step round the ring with occasional beats on his +tambourine, rolling his eyes and looking demented. +Presently, having reached a climax of rapid beating +and pacing, he suddenly stops in the centre with an +extra "bang!"</p> +<p> +"Now, every man who believes in our lord +Mohammed ben Aïsa,<a name="XVIII1r" id="XVIII1r"></a><a href="#XVIII1"><sup>*</sup></a> say with me a Fátihah."</p> +<p> +Each of the onlookers extending his palms side +by side before his face, they repeat the prayer +in a sing-song voice, and as it concludes with a +loud "Ameen," the charmer gives an agonized cry, +as though deeply wrought upon. "Ah Rijál el<a name="page153" id="page153"></a><span class="left">[page 153]</span> +Blád" ("Oh Saints of the Town!"), he shouts, as +he recommences his tambourining, this time even +with increased vigour, beating the ground with his +feet, and working his body up and down in a most +extraordinary manner. The two others are also +playing, and the noise is deafening. The chief +figure appears to be raving mad; his starting eyes, +his lithe and supple figure, and his streaming hair, +give him the air of one possessed. His face is a +study, a combination of fierceness and madness, +yet of good-nature.</p> +<p> +At last he sinks down exhausted, but after a +moment rises and advances to the centre of the +circle, picking up a tambourine.</p> +<p> +"Now, Sîdi Aïsa"—turning to one of the +musicians, whom he motions to cease their din—"what +do you think happens to the man who puts +a coin in there? Why, the holy saint, our lord +Mohammed ben Aïsa, puts a ring round him like +that," drawing a ring round a stone on the ground. +"Is it not so?"</p> +<p> +"It is, Ameen," from Sidi Aïsa.</p> +<p> +"And what happens to him in the day time?"</p> +<p> +"He is in the hands of God, and his people +too."</p> +<p> +"And in the night time?"</p> +<p> +"He is in the hands of God, and his people +too."</p> +<p> +"And when at home?"</p> +<p> +"He is in the hands of God, and his people +too."</p> +<p> +"And when abroad?"</p> +<p> +"He is in the hands of God, and his people +too."</p> + +<a name="page154" id="page154"></a><span class="left">[page 154]</span> +<p> +At this a copper coin is thrown into the ring, +and the charmer replies, "Now he who is master of +sea and land, my lord Abd el Káder el Jîláni,<a name="XVIII2r" id="XVIII2r"></a><a href="#XVIII2"><sup>†</sup></a> bless +the giver of that coin! Now, for the love of God +and of His blessed prophet, I offer a prayer for +that generous one." Here the operation of passing +their hands down their faces is performed by all.</p> +<p> +"Now, there's another,"—as a coin falls—"and +from a child, too! God bless thee now, my son. +May my lord Ben Aïsa, my lord Abd es-Slám, and +my lord Abd el Káder, protect and keep thee!"</p> +<p> +Then, as more coppers fall, similar blessings +are invoked upon the donors, interspersed with +catechising of the musicians with a view to making +known the advantages to be reaped by giving +something. At last, as nothing more seems to be +forthcoming, the performance proper is proceeded +with, and the charmer commences to dance on one +leg, to a terrible din from the tambourines. Then +he pauses, and summons a little boy from the +audience, seating him in the midst, adjuring him +to behave himself, to do as he is bid, and to have +faith in "our lord Ben Aïsa." Then, seating himself +behind the boy, he places his lips against his +skull, and blows repeatedly, coming round to the +front to look at the lad, to see if he is sufficiently +affected, and returning to puff again. Finally he +bites off a piece of the boy's cloak, and chews it. +Now he wets his finger in his mouth, and after +putting it into the dust makes lines across his legs +and arms, all the time calling on his patron saint; +next holding the piece of cloth in his hands and +walking round the ring for all to see it.</p> + +<a name="page155" id="page155"></a><span class="left">[page 155]</span> +<p> +"Come hither," he says to a bystander; "search +my mouth and see if there be anything there."</p> +<p> +The search is conducted as a farmer would +examine a horse's mouth, with the result that it is +declared empty.</p> +<p> +"Now I call on the prophet to witness that +there is no deception," as he once more restores the +piece of cloth to his mouth, and pokes his fingers +into his neck, drawing them now up his face.</p> +<p> +"Enough!"</p> +<p> +The voices of the musicians, who have for the +latter part of the time been giving forth a drawling +chorus, cease, but the din of the tambourines continues, +while the performer dances wildly, till he +stops before the lad on the ground, and takes from +his mouth first one date and then another, which +the lad is told to eat, and does so, the on-lookers +fully convinced that they were transformed from +the rag.</p> +<p> +Now it is the turn of one of the musicians to +come forward, his place being taken by the retiring +performer, after he has made another collection in +the manner already described.</p> +<p> +"He who believes in God and in the power +of our lord Mohammed ben Aïsa, say with me a +Fátihah," cries the new man, extending his palms +turned upwards before him to receive the blessings +he asks, and then brings one of the snake-baskets +forward, plunging his hand into its sack-like mouth, +and sharply drawing it out a time or two, as if +afraid of being bitten.</p> +<p> +Finally he pulls the head of one of the reptiles +through, and leaves it there, darting out its fangs, +while he snatches up and wildly beats the tambourine<a name="page156" id="page156"></a><span class="left">[page 156]</span> +by his side. He now seizes the snake by the neck, +and pulls it right out, the people starting back as +it coils round in the ring, or uncoils and makes +a plunge towards someone. Now he pulls out +another, and hangs it round his neck, saying, "I +take refuge with the saint who was dead and is +alive, with our lord Mohammed son of Aïsa, and +with the most holy Abd el Káder el Jîláni, king of +land and sea. Now, let every one who believes +bear witness with me and say a Fátihah!"</p> +<p> +"Say a Fátihah!" echoes one of the still noisy +musicians, by way of chorus.</p> +<p> +"Now may our lord Abd el Káder see the man +who makes a contribution with his eyes."</p> +<p> +<i>Chorus:</i> "With his eyes!"</p> +<p> +"And may his heart find rest, and our lord +Abd er-Rahmán protect him!"</p> +<p> +<i>Chorus:</i> "Protect him!"</p> +<p> +"Now, I call you to witness, I bargain with our +lord Abd el Káder for a forfeit!"</p> +<p> +<i>Chorus:</i> "For a forfeit!"</p> +<p> +A copper is thrown into the ring, and as he +picks it up and hands it to the musician, the performer +exclaims—</p> +<p> +"Take this, see, and at the last day may the +giver of it see our lord Abd el Káder before him!"</p> +<p> +<i>Chorus:</i> "Before him!"</p> +<p> +"May he ever be blessed, whether present or +absent!"</p> +<p> +<i>Chorus:</i> "Present or absent!"</p> +<p> +"Who wishes to have a good conscience and a +clean heart? Oh, ye beloved of the Lord! See, +take from that dear one" (who has thrown down a +copper).</p> + +<a name="page157" id="page157"></a><span class="left">[page 157]</span> +<p> +The contributions now apparently sufficing for +the present, the performance proceeds, but the +crowd having edged a little too close, it is first +necessary to increase the space in the centre by +swinging one of the reptiles round by the tail, +whereat all start back.</p> +<p> +"Ah! you may well be afraid!" exclaims the +charmer. "Their fangs mean death, if you only +knew it, but for the mercies of my lord, the son of +Aïsa."</p> +<p> +"Ameen!" responds the chorus.</p> +<p> +Hereupon he proceeds to direct the head of the +snake to his mouth, and caressingly invites it to +enter. Darting from side to side, it finally makes a +plunge down his throat, whereon the strangers +shudder, and the <i>habitués</i> look with triumphant +awe. Wildly he spins on one foot that all may see, +still holding the creature by the neck with one hand, +and by the tail with the other. At length, having +allowed the greater part of its length to disappear +in this uncanny manner, he proceeds to withdraw it, +the head emerging with the sound of a cork from a +bottle. The sight has not been pleasant, but the +audience, transfixed, gives a sigh of relief as the +tambourines strike up again, and the reed chimes in +deafeningly.</p> +<p> +"Who says they are harmless? Who says their +fangs are extracted?" challenges the performer. +"Look here!"</p> +<p> +The seemingly angry snake has now fastened +on his arm, and is permitted to draw blood, as +though in reward for its recent treatment.</p> +<p> +"Is any incredulous here? Shall I try it on +thee?"</p> + +<a name="page158" id="page158"></a><span class="left">[page 158]</span> +<p> +The individual addressed, a poverty-stricken +youth whose place was doubtless required for some +more promising customer behind, flees in terror, as +the gaping jaws approach him. One and another +having been similarly dismissed from points of vantage, +and a redistribution of front seats effected, the +incredulous are once more tauntingly addressed and +challenged. This time the challenge is accepted by +a foreigner, who hands in a chicken held by its +wings.</p> +<p> +"So? Blessed be God! Its doom is sealed if +it comes within reach of the snake. See here!"</p> +<p> +All eagerly press forward, many rising to their +feet, and it is difficult to see over their shoulders the +next gruesome act. The reptile, held by the neck +in the performer's right hand, is shown the chicken +in the other, and annoyed by having it poked in its +face, too frightened to perceive what is happening. +In a moment the fangs are shot out, and a wound +inflicted in the exposed part under the wing. Blood +appears, and the bird is thrown down, being held in +place by the performer's foot till in a few minutes +its struggles cease. Then, picking the victim up, +he holds it aloft by one wing to show its condition, +and exultingly calls for a Fátihah.</p> +<p> +It is enough: my patience is exhausted, and I +rise to make off with stiff knees, content at last with +what I have seen and heard of the "charming" of +snakes in Morocco.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVIII1" id="XVIII1"></a> +<a href="#XVIII1r">*</a> For the history of this man and his snake-charming followers +see "The Moors," p. 331.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XVIII2" id="XVIII2"></a> +<a href="#XVIII2r">†</a> The surname of the Baghdád saint.</p> + +<br /><a name="caravanserai" id="caravanserai"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/159.jpg"><img src="images/159-500.jpg" width="499" height="306" alt="A MOROCCO FANDAK (CARAVANSARAI)." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A MOROCCO FANDAK (CARAVANSARAI).</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page159" id="page159"></a><span class="left">[page 159]</span> + +<h3>XIX</h3> + +<h2>IN A MOORISH CAFÉ</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"A little from a friend is much."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +To the passer-by, least of all to the European, there +is nothing in its external appearance to recommend +old Hashmi's <i>café</i>. From the street, indeed, it is +hardly visible, for it lies within the threshold of a +caravansarai or fandak, in which beasts are tethered, +goods accumulated and travellers housed, and of +which the general appearance is that of a neglected +farm-yard. Round an open court a colonnade supports +the balcony by which rooms on the upper +story are approached, a narrow staircase in the +corner leading right up to the terraced roof. In +the daytime the sole occupants of the rooms are +women whose partners for the time being have +securely locked them in before going to work.</p> +<p> +Beside the lofty archway forming the gate of +this strange hostelry, is Hashmi's stall, at which +green tea or a sweet, pea-soupy preparation of +coffee may be had at all hours of the day, but the +<i>café</i> proper, gloomy by daylight, lies through the +door behind. Here, of an evening, the candles lit, +his regular customers gather with tiny pipes, indulging +in flowing talk. Each has before him his +harmless glass, as he squats or reclines on the<a name="page160" id="page160"></a><span class="left">[page 160]</span> +rush-matted floor. Nothing of importance occurs in +the city but is within a little made known here with +as much certainty as if the proprietor subscribed to an +evening paper. Any man who has something fresh +to tell, who can interest or amuse the company, +and by his frequent visits give the house a name, is +always welcome, and will find a glass awaiting him +whenever he chooses to come.</p> +<p> +Old Hashmi knows his business, and if the +evening that I was there may be taken as a sample, +he deserves success. That night he was in the +best of humours. His house was full and trade +brisk. Fattah, a negro, was keeping the house +merry, so in view of coming demands, he brewed +a fresh pot of real "Mekkan." The surroundings +were grimy, and outside the rain came down in +torrents: but that was a decided advantage, since +it not only drove men indoors, but helped to keep +them there. Mesaôd, the one-eyed, had finished +an elaborate tuning of his two-stringed banjo, his +ginbri—a home-made instrument—and was proceeding +to arrive at a convenient pitch of voice +for his song. With a strong nasal accent he commenced +reciting the loves of Si Marzak and his +fair Azîzah: how he addressed her in the fondest +of language, and how she replied by caresses. +When he came to the chorus they all chimed in, +for the most part to their own tune and time, as +they rocked to and fro, some clapping, some beating +their thighs, and all applauding at the end.</p> +<p> +The whole ballad would not bear translation—for +English ears,—and the scanty portion which +may be given has lost its rhythm and cadence by +the change, for Arabic is very soft and beautiful<a name="page161" id="page161"></a><span class="left">[page 161]</span> +to those who understand it. The time has come +when Azîzah, having quarrelled with Si Marzak +in a fit of perhaps too well-founded jealousy, +desires to "make it up again," and thus addresses +her beloved—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"Oh, how I have followed thy attractiveness,</p> + <p>And halted between give and take!</p> + <p>Oh, how I'd from evil have protected thee</p> + <p>By my advice, hadst thou but heeded it!</p> + <p class="i4">Yet to-day taste, O my master,</p> + <p class="i4">Of the love that thou hast taught to me!</p></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"Oh, how I have longed for the pleasure of thy visits,</p> + <p>And poured out bitter tears for thee;</p> + <p>Until at last the sad truth dawned on me</p> + <p>That of thy choice thou didst put me aside!</p> + <p class="i4">Yet to-day taste, O my master,</p> + <p class="i4">Of the love that thou hast taught to me!</p></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"Thou wast sweeter than honey to me,</p> + <p>But thou hast become more bitter than gall.</p> + <p>Is it thus thou beginnest the world?</p> + <p>Beware lest thou make me thy foe!</p> + <p class="i4">Yet to-day taste, O my master,</p> + <p class="i4">Of the love that thou hast taught to me!</p></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"I have hitherto been but a name to thee,</p> + <p>And thou took'st to thy bosom a snake,</p> + <p>But to-day I perceive thou'st a fancy for me:</p> + <p>O God, I will not be deceived!</p> + <p class="i4">Yes, to-day taste, O my master,</p> + <p class="i4">Of the love that thou hast taught to me!</p></div> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"Thou know'st my complaint and my only cure:</p> + <p>Why, then, wilt thou heal me not?</p> + <p>Thou canst do so to-day, O my master,</p> + <p>And save me from all further woe.</p> + <p class="i4">Yes, to-day taste, O my master,</p> + <p class="i4">Of the love that thou hast taught to me!"</p> +</div> +</div> +<p> +To which the hard-pressed swain replies—</p> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"Of a truth thine eyes have bewitched me,</p> + <p>For Death itself is in fear of them:</p> + <p>And thine eyebrows, like two logs of wood,</p> + <p>Have battered me each in its turn.</p> + <p class="i4">So if thou sayest die, I'll die;</p> + <p class="i4">And for God shall my sacrifice be!</p></div> + +<a name="page162" id="page162"></a><span class="left">[page 162]</span> + +<div class="stanza"> + <p>"I have neither yet died nor abandoned hope,</p> + <p>Though slumber at night I ne'er know.</p> + <p>With the staff of deliverance still afar off,</p> + <p>So that all the world knows of my woe.</p> + <p class="i4">And if thou sayest die, I'll die,</p> + <p class="i4">But for God shall my sacrifice be!"</p> +</div> +</div> +<p> +While the singing was proceeding Sáïd and +Drees had been indulging in a game of draughts, +and as it ceased their voices could be heard in +eager play. "Call thyself a Mallem (master). +There, thy father was bewitched by a hyena; there, +and there again!" shouted Sáïd, as he swept a +first, a second and a third of his opponent's pieces +from the board.</p> +<p> +But Drees was equal with him in another +move.</p> +<p> +"So, verily, thou art my master! Let us, then, +praise God for thy wisdom: thou art like indeed +unto him who verily shot the fox, but who killed +his own cow with the second shot! See, thus I +teach thee to boast before thy betters: ha, I laugh +at thee, I ride the donkey on thy head. I shave +that beard of thine!" he ejaculated, taking one +piece after another from his adversary, as the result +of an incautious move. The board had the appearance +of a well-kicked footstool, and the "men"—called +"dogs" in Barbary—were more like baseless +chess pawns. The play was as unlike that of +Europeans as possible; the moves from "room" to +"room" were of lightning swiftness, and accompanied +by a running fire of slang ejaculations, +chiefly sarcastic, but, on the whole, enlivened with +a vein of playful humour not to be Englished +politely. Just as the onlookers would become +interested in the progress of one or the other,<a name="page163" id="page163"></a><span class="left">[page 163]</span> +a too rapid advance by either would result in an +incomprehensible wholesale clearing of the board +by his opponent's sleeve. Yet without a stop the +pieces would be replaced in order, and a new game +commenced, the vanquished too proud to acknowledge +that he did not quite see how the victor had +won.</p> +<p> +Then Fattah, whose <i>forte</i> was mimicry, attracted +the attention of the company by a representation +of a fat wazeer at prayers. Amid roars of laughter +he succeeded in rising to his feet with the help of +those beside him, who had still to lend occasional +support, as his knees threatened to give way under +his apparently ponderous carcase. Before and +behind, his shirt was well stuffed with cushions, and +the sides were not forgotten. His cheeks were +puffed out to the utmost, and his eyes rolled +superbly. At last the moment came for him to go +on his knees, when he had to be let gently down by +those near him, but his efforts to bow his head, now +top-heavy with a couple of shirts for a turban, were +most ludicrous, as he fell on one side in apparently +vain endeavours. The spectators roared with +laughter till the tears coursed down their cheeks; +but that black and solemn face remained unmoved, +and at the end of the prescribed motions the pseudo-great +man apparently fell into slumber as heavy as +himself, and snored in a style that a prize pig might +have envied.</p> +<p> +"Áfuk! Áfuk!" the deafening bravos resounded, +for Fattah had excelled himself, and was amply +rewarded by the collection which followed.</p> +<p> +A tale was next demanded from a jovial man of +Fez, who, nothing loth, began at once—</p> + +<a name="page164" id="page164"></a><span class="left">[page 164]</span> +<p> +"Evening was falling as across the plain of +Háhá trudged a weary traveller. The cold wind +whistled through his tattered garments. The path +grew dim before his eyes. The stars came out one +by one, but no star of hope shone for him. He +was faint and hungry. His feet were sore. His +head ached. He shivered.</p> +<p> +"'May God have pity on me!' he muttered.</p> +<p> +"God heard him. A few minutes later he +descried an earthly star—a solitary light was twinkling +on the distant hillside. Thitherward he turned +his steps.</p> +<p> +"Hope rose within him. His step grew brisk. +The way seemed clear. Onward he pushed.</p> +<p> +"Presently he could make out the huts of a +village.</p> +<p> +"'Thank God!' he cried; but still he had no +supper.</p> +<p> +"His empty stomach clamoured. His purse +was empty also. The fiendish dogs of the village +yelped at him. He paused discomfited. He +called.</p> +<p> +"Widow Záïdah stood before her light.</p> +<p> +"'Who's there?'</p> +<p> +"'A God-guest'</p> +<p> +"'In God's name, then, welcome! Silence +there, curs!'</p> +<p> +"Abd el Hakk approached.</p> +<p> +"'God bless thee, my mother, and repay thee a +thousand-fold!'</p> +<p> +"But Záïdah herself was poor. Her property +consisted only of a hut and some fowls. She set +before him eggs—two, hard-boiled,—bread also. +He thanked God. He ate.</p> +<p> +"'Yes, God will repay,' she said.</p> +<p> +"Next day Abd el Hakk passed on to Marrákesh. +There God blessed him. Years passed on; +one, two, three, four, five, six, seven. Abd el Hakk<a name="page165" id="page165"></a><span class="left">[page 165]</span> +was rich. Melûdi the lawyer disliked him. Said +he to Widow Záïdah—</p> +<p> +"'Abd el Hakk, whom once thou succouredst, +is rich. The two eggs were never yet paid for. +Hadst thou not given them to him they would +have become two chickens. These would each +have laid hundreds. Those hundreds, when hatched, +would have laid their thousands. In seven years, +think to what amount Abd el Hakk is indebted to +thee. Sue him.'</p> +<p> +"Widow Záïdah listened. What is more, she +acted. Abd el Hakk failed to appear to rebut the +claim. He was worth no more.</p> +<p> +"'Why is the defendant not here?' asked the +judge.</p> +<p> +"'My lord,' said his attorney, 'he is gone to +sow boiled beans.'</p> +<p> +"'Boiled beans!'</p> +<p> +"'Boiled beans, my lord.'</p> +<p> +"'Is he mad?'</p> +<p> +"'He is very wise, my lord.'</p> +<p> +"'Thou mockest.'</p> +<p> +"'My lord, if boiled eggs can be hatched, sure +boiled beans will grow!'</p> +<p> +"'Dismissed with costs!'</p> +<p> +"The tree that bends with every wind that +blows will seldom stand upright."</p> + + <br /><hr class="short" /><br /> +<p> +A round of applause greeted the clever tale, of +which the speaker's gestures had told even more +than his words. But the merriment of the company +only began there, for forthwith a babel of +tongues was occupied in the discussion of all the +points of the case, in imagining every impossible or +humorous alternative, and laughter resounded on +every side, as the glasses were quickly refilled with +an innocent drink.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page166" id="page166"></a><span class="left">[page 166]</span> + +<h3>XX</h3> + +<h2>THE MEDICINE-MAN</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Wine is a key to all evil."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Under the glare of an African sun, its rays, however, +tempered by a fresh Atlantic breeze; no roof +to his consulting-room save the sky, no walls surrounding +him to keep off idle starers like ourselves; +by the roadside sits a native doctor of repute. His +costume is that of half the crowd around, outwardly +consisting of a well-worn brown woollen cloak with +a hood pulled over his head, from beneath the skirts +of which protrude his muddy feet. By his side lies +the basket containing his supplies and less delicate +instruments; the finer ones we see him draw from +a capacious wallet of leather beneath his cloak.</p> +<p> +Though personally somewhat gaunt, he is nevertheless +a jolly-looking character, totally free from +that would-be professional air assumed by some of +our medical students to hide lack of experience; for +he, empiric though he be, has no idea of any of his +own shortcomings, and greets us with an easy smile. +He is seated on the ground, hugging his knees till +his attention is drawn to us, when, observing our gaze +at his lancets on the ground, he picks one up to +show it. Both are of rude construction, merely +pieces of flat steel filed to double-edged points, and<a name="page167" id="page167"></a><span class="left">[page 167]</span> +protected by two flaps slightly bigger, in the one case +of bone, in the other of brass. A loose rivet holding +all together at one end completes the instrument. +The brass one he says was made by a Jew in Fez +out of an old clock; the other by a Jew in Marrákesh. +For the purpose of making scratches for +cupping he has a piece of flat steel about half an +inch wide, sharpened across the end chisel-fashion. +Then he has a piece of an old razor-blade tied to +a stick with a string. That this is sharp he soon +demonstrates by skilfully shaving an old man's head, +after only damping the eighth of an inch stub with +which it is covered. A stone and a bit of leather, +supplemented by the calves of his legs, or his biceps, +serve to keep the edges in condition.</p> +<p> +From a finger-shaped leather bag in his satchel +he produces an antiquated pair of tooth extractors, +a small pair of forceps for pulling out thorns, +and a stiletto. The first-named article, he informs +us, came from France to Tafilált, his home, <i>viâ</i> +Tlemçen; it is of the design known as "Fox's +claw," and he explains to us that the difference +between the French and the English article is that +the one has no spring to keep the jaws open, while +the other has. A far more formidable instrument +is the genuine native contrivance, a sort of exaggerated +corkscrew without a point.</p> +<p> +But here comes a patient to be treated. He +troubles the doctor with no diagnosis, asking only +to be bled. He is a youth of medium height, bronzed +by the sun. Telling him to sit down and bare his +right arm, the operator feels it well up and down, +and then places the tips of the patient's fingers on +the ground, bidding him not to move. Pouring out<a name="page168" id="page168"></a><span class="left">[page 168]</span> +a little water into a metal dish, he washes the arm +on the inside of the elbow, drying it with his cloak. +Next he ties a piece of list round the upper arm as +tightly as he can, and selecting one of the lancets, +makes an incision into the vein which the washing +has rendered visible. A bright stream issues, squirting +into the air some fifteen inches; it is soon, however, +directed into a tin soup-plate holding fourteen +ounces, as we ascertained by measurement. The +operator washes and dries his lancet, wraps the two +in a white rag, and puts them into a piece of cane +which forms an excellent case. Meanwhile the plate +has filled, and he turns his attention once more to +the patient. One or two passers-by have stopped, +like ourselves, to look on.</p> +<p> +"I knew a man," says one, "who was being bled +like that, and kept on saying, 'take a little more,' +till he fell back dead in our arms."</p> +<p> +"Yes," chimes in another, "I have heard of such +cases; it is very dangerous."</p> +<p> +Although the patient is evidently growing very +nervous, our surgical friend affects supreme indifference +to all this tittle-tattle, and after a while +removes the bandage, bending the forearm inward, +with the effect of somewhat checking the flow of +blood. When he has bound up with list the cane +that holds the lancets, he closes the forearm back +entirely, so that the flow is stopped. Opening it +again a little, he wipes a sponge over the aperture +a few times, and closes it with his thumb. Then he +binds a bit of filthy rag round the arm, twisting it +above and below the elbow alternately, and crossing +over the incision each time. When this is done, he +sends the patient to throw away the blood and wash<a name="page169" id="page169"></a><span class="left">[page 169]</span> +the plate, receiving for the whole operation the sum +of three half-pence.</p> +<p> +Another patient is waiting his turn, an old man +desiring to be bled behind the ears for headache. +After shaving two patches for the purpose, the +"bleeder," as he is justly called, makes eighteen +scratches close together, about half an inch long. +Over these he places a brass cup of the shape of +a high Italian hat without the brim. From near +the edge of this protrudes a long brass tube with +a piece of leather round and over the end. This +the operator sucks to create a vacuum, the moistened +leather closing like a valve, which leaves the cup +hanging <i>in situ</i>. Repeating this on the other side, +he empties the first cup of the blood which has by +this time accumulated in it, and so on alternately, +till he has drawn off what appears to him to be +sufficient. All that remains to be done is to wipe +the wounds and receive the fee.</p> +<p> +Some years ago such a worthy as this earned +quite a reputation for exorcising devils in Southern +Morocco. His mode of procedure was brief, but +as a rule effective. The patient was laid on the +ground before the wise man's tent, face downward, +and after reading certain mystic and unintelligible +passages, selected from one of the ponderous tomes +which form a prominent part of the "doctor's" +stock-in-trade, he solemnly ordered two or three +men to hold the sufferer down while two more +thrashed him till they were tired. If, when released, +the patient showed the least sign of returning +violence, or complained that the whole affair was +a fraud, it was taken as a sure sign that he had +not had enough, and he was forthwith seized again<a name="page170" id="page170"></a><span class="left">[page 170]</span> +and the dose repeated till he had learned that discretion +was the better part of valour, and slunk off, +perhaps a wiser, certainly a sadder man. It is said, +and I do not doubt it—though it is more than most +medical men can say of their patients—that no one +was ever known to return in quest of further treatment.</p> +<p> +All this, however, is nothing compared with the +Moor's love of fire as a universal panacea. Not +only for his mules and his horses, but also for himself +and his family, cauterization is in high repute, +especially as he estimates the value of a remedy as +much by its immediate and visible action as by its +ultimate effects. The "fire-doctor" is therefore even +a greater character in his way than the "bleeder," +whom we have just visited. His outfit includes a +collection of queer-shaped irons designed to cauterize +different parts of the body, a portable brazier, and +bellows made from a goat-skin with a piece of board +at one side wherewith to press and expel the air +through a tube on the other side. He, too, sits by +the roadside, and disposes of his groaning though +wonderfully enduring "patients" much as did his +rival of the lancet. Rohlfs, a German doctor +who explored parts of Morocco in the garb of a +native, exercising what he could of his profession +for a livelihood, tells how he earned a considerable +reputation by the introduction of "cold fire" (lunar +caustic) as a rival to the original style; and Pellow, +an English slave who made his escape in 1735, +found cayenne pepper of great assistance in ingratiating +himself with the Moors in this way, and even +in delaying a pursuer suffering from ophthalmia +by blowing a little into his eyes before his identity<a name="page171" id="page171"></a><span class="left">[page 171]</span> +was discovered. In extenuation of this trick, +however, it must be borne in mind that cayenne +pepper is an accredited Moorish remedy for ophthalmia, +being placed on the eyelids, though it is +only a mixture of canary seed and sugar that is +blown in.</p> +<p> +Every European traveller in Morocco is supposed +to know something about medicine, and many have +been my own amusing experiences in this direction. +Nothing that I used gave me greater fame than a +bottle of oil of cantharides, the contents of which I +applied freely behind the ears or upon the temples +of such victims of ophthalmia as submitted themselves +to my tender mercies. Only I found that +when my first patient began to dance with the joy +and pain of the noble blister which shortly arose, +so many people fancied they needed like treatment +that I was obliged to restrict the use of so popular +a cure to special cases.</p> +<p> +One branch of Moroccan medicine consists in +exorcising devils, of which a most amusing instance +once came under my notice. An English gentleman +gave one of his servants who complained +of being troubled with these unwelcome guests two +good-sized doses of tartaric acid and carbonate of +soda a second apart. The immediate exit of the +devil was so apparent that the fame of the prescriber +as a medical man was made at once. But many of +the cases which the amateur is called upon to treat +are much more difficult to satisfy than this. Superstition +is so strongly mingled with the native ideas +of disease,—of being possessed,—that the two can +hardly be separated. During an epidemic of cholera, +for instance, the people keep as close as possible to<a name="page172" id="page172"></a><span class="left">[page 172]</span> +walls, and avoid sand-hills, for fear of "catching +devils." All disease is indeed more or less ascribed +to satanic agency, and in Morocco that practitioner +is most in repute who claims to attack this cause of +the malady rather than its effect.</p> +<p> +Although the Moors have a certain rudimentary +acquaintance with simple medicinal agents—and +how rudimentary that acquaintance is, will better +appear from what is to follow,—in all their pharmacopœia +no remedy is so often recommended or so +implicitly relied on as the "writing" of a man of +reputed sanctity. Such a writing may consist merely +of a piece of paper scribbled over with the name of +God, or with some sentence from the Korán, such +as, "And only God is the Healer," repeated many +times, or in special cases it may contain a whole +series of pious expressions and meaningless incantations. +For an ordinary external complaint, such +as general debility arising from the evil eye of a +neighbour or a jealous wife, or as a preventative +against bewitchment, or as a love philtre, it is +usually considered sufficient to wear this in a leather +bag around the neck or forehead; but in case of +unfathomable internal disease, such as indigestion, +the "writing" is prescribed to be divided into so +many equal portions, and taken in a little water +night and morning.</p> +<p> +The author of these potent documents is sometimes +a hereditary saint descended from Mohammed, +sometimes a saint whose sanctity arises from +real or assumed insanity—for to be mad in Barbary +is to have one's thoughts so occupied with things of +heaven as to have no time left for things of earth,—and +often they are written by ordinary public<a name="page173" id="page173"></a><span class="left">[page 173]</span> +scribes, or schoolmasters, for among the Moors +reading and religion are almost synonymous terms. +There are, however, a few professional gentlemen +who dispense these writings among their drugs. +Such alone of all their quacks aspire to the title of +"doctor." Most of these spend their time wandering +about the country from fair to fair, setting up +their tents wherever there are patients to be found +in sufficient numbers.</p> +<p> +Attired as natives, let us visit one. Arrived at +the tent door, we salute the learned occupant with +the prescribed "Salám oo alaïkum" ("To you be +peace"), to which, on noting our superior costumes, +he replies with a volley of complimentary inquiries +and welcomes. These we acknowledge with dignity, +and with as sedate an air as possible. We leisurely +seat ourselves on the ground in orthodox style, like +tailors. As it would not be good form to mention +our business at once, we defer professional consultation +till we have inquired successfully after his +health, his travels, and the latest news at home and +from abroad. In the course of conversation he gives +us to understand that he is one of the Sultan's uncles, +which is by no means impossible in a country where +it has not been an unknown thing for an imperial +father to lose count of his numerous progeny.</p> +<p> +Feeling at last that we have broken the ice, we +turn the conversation to the subject of our supposed +ailments. My own complaint is a general internal +disorder resulting in occasional feverishness, griping +pains, and loss of sleep. After asking a number +of really sensible questions, such as would seem to +place him above the ordinary rank of native practitioners, +he gravely announces that he has "the<a name="page174" id="page174"></a><span class="left">[page 174]</span> +very thing" in the form of a powder, which, from its +high virtues, and the exceeding number of its ingredients, +some of them costly, is rather expensive. +We remember the deference with which our costumes +were noted, and understand. But, after all, +the price of a supply is announced to be only seven-pence +halfpenny. The contents of some of the +canisters he shows us include respectively, according +to his account, from twenty to fifty drugs. For our +own part, we strongly suspect that all are spices to +be procured from any Moorish grocer.</p> +<p> +Together with the prescription I receive instructions +to drink the soup from a fat chicken in +the morning, and to eat its flesh in the evening; to +eat hot bread and drink sweet tea, and to do as +little work as possible, the powder to be taken daily +for a fortnight in a little honey. Whatever else he +may not know, it is evident that our doctor knows +full well how to humour his patients.</p> +<p> +The next case is even more easy of treatment +than mine, a "writing" only being required. On a +piece of very common paper two or three inches +square, the doctor writes something of which the +only legible part is the first line: "In the name of +God, the Pitying, the Pitiful," followed, we subsequently +learn, by repetitions of "Only God is the +Healer." For this the patient is to get his wife to +make a felt bag sewed with coloured silk, into which +the charm is to be put, along with a little salt and a +few parings of garlic, after which it is to be worn +round his neck for ever.</p> +<p> +Sometimes, in wandering through Morocco, one +comes across much more curious remedies than +these, for the worthy we have just visited is but a<a name="page175" id="page175"></a><span class="left">[page 175]</span> +commonplace type in this country. A medical +friend once met a professional brother in the interior +who had a truly original method of proving his skill. +By pressing his finger on the side of his nose close +to his eye, he could send a jet of liquid right into his +interlocutor's face, a proceeding sufficient to satisfy +all doubts as to his alleged marvellous powers. On +examination it was found that he had a small orifice +near the corner of the eye, through which the +pressure forced the lachrymal fluid, pure tears, in +fact. This is just an instance of the way in which +any natural defect or peculiarity is made the most +of by these wandering empirics, to impose on their +ignorant and credulous victims.</p> +<p> +Even such of them as do give any variety of +remedies are hardly more to be trusted. Whatever +they give, their patients like big doses, and are +not content without corresponding visible effects. +Epsom salts, which are in great repute, are never +given to a man in less quantities than two tablespoonfuls. +On one occasion a poor woman came to +me suffering from ague, and looking very dejected. +I mixed this quantity of salts in a tumblerful of +water, with a good dose of quinine, bidding her +drink two-thirds of it, and give the remainder to +her daughter, who evidently needed it as much as +she did. Her share was soon disposed of with +hardly more than a grimace, to the infinite enjoyment +of a fat, black slave-girl who was standing by, +and who knew from personal experience what a +tumblerful meant. But to induce the child to take +hers was quite another matter. "What! not drink +it?" the mother cried, as she held the potion to her +lips. "The devil take thee, thou cursed offspring of<a name="page176" id="page176"></a><span class="left">[page 176]</span> +an abandoned woman! May God burn thy ancestors!" +But though the child, accustomed to such +mild and motherly invectives, budged not, it had +proved altogether too much for the jovial slave, +who was by this time convulsed with laughter, and +so, I may as well confess, was I. At last the +woman's powers of persuasion were exhausted, and +she drained the glass herself.</p> +<p> +When in Fez some years ago, a dog I had with +me needed dosing, so I got three drops of croton +oil on sugar made ready for him. Mine host, a +man of fifty or more, came in meanwhile, and +having ascertained the action of the drug from my +servant, thought it might possibly do him good, and +forthwith swallowed it. Of this the first intimation +I had was from the agonizing screams of the old +man, who loudly proclaimed that his last hour was +come, and from the terrified wails of the females of +his household, who thought so too. When I saw +him he was rolling on the tiles of the courtyard, his +heels in the air, bellowing frantically. I need +hardly dilate upon the relief I felt when at last we +succeeded in alleviating his pain, and knew that he +was out of danger.</p> +<p> +Among the favourite remedies of Morocco, +hyena's head powder ranks high as a purge, and +the dried bones and flesh may often be seen in the +native spice-shops, coated with dust as they hang. +Some of the prescriptions given are too filthy to +repeat, almost to be believed. As a specimen, by no +means the worst, I may mention a recipe at one +time in favour among the Jewesses of Mogador, +according to one writer. This was to drink seven +draughts from the town drain where it entered the<a name="page177" id="page177"></a><span class="left">[page 177]</span> +sea, beaten up with seven eggs. For diseases of +the "heart," by which they mean the stomach and +liver, and of eyes, joints, etc., a stone, which is found +in an animal called the horreh, the size of a small +walnut, and valued as high as twelve dollars, is ground +up and swallowed, the patient thereafter remaining +indoors a week. Ants, prepared in various ways, are +recommended for lethargy, and lion's flesh for +cowardice. Privet or mallow leaves, fresh honey, +and chameleons split open alive, are considered good +for wounds and sores, while the fumes from the +burning of the dried body of this animal are often +inhaled. Among more ordinary remedies are saraparilla, +senna, and a number of other well-known +herbs and roots, whose action is more or less understood. +Roasted pomegranate rind in powder is +found really effectual in dysentery and diarrhœa.</p> +<p> +Men and women continually apply for philtres, +and women for means to prevent their husbands +from liking rival wives, or for poison to put them +out of the way. As arsenic, corrosive sublimate, +and other poisons are sold freely to children in +every spice-shop, the number of unaccounted-for +deaths is extremely large, but inquiry is seldom +or never made. When it is openly averred that So-and-so +died from "a cup of tea," the only mental +comment seems to be that she was very foolish +not to be more careful what she drank, and to see +that whoever prepared it took the first sip according +to custom. The highest recommendation of any +particular dish or spice is that it is "heating." +Great faith is also placed in certain sacred rocks, +tree-stumps, etc., which are visited in the hope of +obtaining relief from all sorts of ailments. Visitors +<a name="page178" id="page178"></a><span class="left">[page 178]</span> +often leave rags torn from their garments by which to +be remembered by the guardian of the place. Others +repair to the famous sulphur springs of Zarhôn, +supposed to derive their benefit from the interment +close by of a certain St. Jacob—and dance in +the waters, yelling without intermission, "Cold and +hot, O my lord Yakoob! Cold and hot!" fearful +lest any cessation of the cry might permit the +temperature to be increased or diminished beyond +the bearable point.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page179" id="page179"></a><span class="left">[page 179]</span> + +<h3>XXI</h3> + +<h2>THE HUMAN MART</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Who digs a pit for his brother will fall into it."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +The slave-market differs in no respect from any +other in Morocco, save in the nature of the "goods" +exposed. In most cases the same place is used for +other things at other times, and the same auctioneers +are employed to sell cattle. The buyers seat themselves +round an open courtyard, in the closed pens +of which are the slaves for sale. These are brought +out singly or in lots, inspected precisely as cattle +would be, and expatiated upon in much the same +manner.</p> +<p> +For instance, here comes a middle-aged man, +led slowly round by the salesman, who is describing +his "points" and noting bids. He has first-class +muscles, although he is somewhat thin. He is +made to lift a weight to prove his strength. His +thighs are patted, and his lips are turned to show +the gums, which at merrier moments would have +been visible without such a performance. With a +shame-faced, hang-dog air he trudges round, wondering +what will be his lot, though a sad one it is +already. At last he is knocked down for so many +score of dollars, and after a good deal of further +bargaining he changes hands.</p> + +<a name="page180" id="page180"></a><span class="left">[page 180]</span> +<p> +The next brought forward are three little girls—a +"job lot," maybe ten, thirteen, and sixteen years +of age—two of them evidently sisters. They are +declared to be already proficient in Arabic, and +ready for anything. Their muscles are felt, their +mouths examined, and their bodies scrutinized in +general, while the little one begins to cry, and the +others look as though they would like to keep her +company. Round and round again they are marched, +but the bids do not rise high enough to effect a sale, +and they are locked up again for a future occasion. +It is indeed a sad, sad sight.</p> +<p> +The sources of supply for the slave-market are +various, but the chief is direct from Guinea and the +Sáhara, where the raids of the traders are too well +understood to need description. Usually some +inter-tribal jealousy is fostered and fanned into a +flame, and the one which loses is plundered of +men and goods. Able-bodied lads and young girls +are in most demand, and fetch high prices when +brought to the north. The unfortunate prisoners +are marched with great hardship and privation to +depôts over the Atlas, where they pick up Arabic +and are initiated into Mohammedanism. To a +missionary who once asked one of the dealers how +they found their way across the desert, the terribly +significant reply was, "There are many bones along +the way!" After a while the survivors are either +exposed for sale in the markets of Marrákesh or Fez, +or hawked round from door to door in the coast towns, +where public auctions are prohibited. Some have +even found their way to Egypt and Constantinople, +having been transported in British vessels, and landed +at Gibraltar as members of the dealer's family!</p> + +<a name="page181" id="page181"></a><span class="left">[page 181]</span> +<p> +Another source of supply is the constant series +of quarrels between the tribes of Morocco itself, +during which many children are carried off who are +white or nearly so. In this case the victims are +almost all girls, for whom good prices are to be +obtained. This opens a door for illegal supplies, +children born of slaves and others kidnapped being +thus disposed of for hareems. For this purpose +the demand for white girls is much in excess of +that for black, so that great temptation is offered. +I knew a man who had seventeen such in his house, +and of nearly a dozen whom I saw there, none were +too dark to have passed for English brunettes.</p> +<p> +Though nothing whatever can be said in defence +of this practice of tearing our fellow-men from their +homes, and selling them as slaves, our natural feelings +of horror abate considerably when we become +acquainted with its results under the rule of Islám. +Instead of the fearful state of things which occurred +under English or American rule, it is a pleasure +to find that, whatever may be the shortcomings of +the Moors, in this case, at any rate, they have set +us a good example. Even their barbarous treatment +of Christian slaves till within a century was +certainly no worse than our treatment of black slaves.</p> +<p> +To begin with, Mohammedans make no distinction +in civil or religious rights between a black skin +and a white. So long as a man avows belief in no +god but God, and in Mohammed as the prophet of +God, complying with certain outward forms of his +religion, he is held to be as good a Muslim as anyone +else; and as the whole social and civil fabrics +are built upon religion and the teachings of the +Korán, the social position of every well-behaved<a name="page182" id="page182"></a><span class="left">[page 182]</span> +Mohammedan is practically equal. The possession +of authority of any kind will naturally command a +certain amount of respectful attention, and he who +has any reason for seeking a favour from another is +sure to adopt a more subservient mien; but beyond +this, few such class distinctions are known as those +common in Europe. The slave who, away from +home, can behave as a gentleman, will be received +as such, irrespective of his colour, and when freed +he may aspire to any position under the Sultan. +There are, indeed, many instances of black men +having been ministers, governors, and even ambassadors +to Europe, and such appointments are too +common to excite astonishment. They have even, +in the past, assisted in giving rise to the misconception +that the people of Morocco were "Black-a-Moors."</p> +<p> +In many households the slave becomes the trusted +steward of his owner, and receives a sufficient allowance +to live in comfort. He will possess a paper +giving him his freedom on his master's death, and +altogether he will have a very good time of it. The +liberation of slaves is enjoined upon those who +follow Mohammed as a most praiseworthy act, and +as one which cannot fail to bring its own reward. +But, like too many in our own land, they more often +prefer to make use of what they possess till they +start on that journey on which they can take nothing +with them, and then affect generosity by bestowing +upon others that over which they lose control.</p> +<p> +One poor fellow whom I knew very well, who +had been liberated on the death of his master, +having lost his papers, was re-kidnapped and sold +again to a man who was subsequently imprisoned for<a name="page183" id="page183"></a><span class="left">[page 183]</span> +fraud, when he got free and worked for some years +as porter; but he was eventually denounced and +put in irons in a dungeon as part of the property +of his <i>soi-disant</i> master.</p> +<p> +The ordinary place of the slave is much that +of the average servant, but receiving only board, +lodging, and scanty clothing, without pay, and being +unable to change masters. Sometimes, however, +they are permitted to beg or work for money to +buy their own freedom, when they become, as it +were, their own masters. On the whole, a jollier, +harder-working, or better-tempered lot than these +Negroes it would be hard to desire, and they are as +light-hearted, fortunately, as true-hearted, even in +the midst of cruel adversities.</p> +<p> +The condition of a woman slave—to which, also, +most of what has been said refers—is as much +behind that of a man-slave as is that of a free-woman +behind that of her lord. If she becomes +her master's wife, the mother of a child, she is +thereby freed, though she must remain in his service +until his death, and she is only treated as an animal, +not as a human being.</p> +<p> +After all, there is a dark side—one sufficiently +dark to need no intensifying. The fact of one man +being the possessor of another, just as much as he +could be of a horse or cow, places him in the same +position with regard to his "chattel" as to such a +four-footed animal. "The merciful man is merciful +to his beast," but "the tender mercies of the +wicked are cruel," and just as one man will ill-treat +his beast, while another treats his well, so will one +man persecute his slave. Instances of this are +quite common enough, and here and there cases +<a name="page184" id="page184"></a><span class="left">[page 184]</span> +could be brought forward of revolting brutality, as +in the story which follows, but the great thing is +that agricultural slavery is practically unknown, and +that what exists is chiefly domestic. "Know the +slave," says an Arab proverb, "and you know the +master."</p> + +<br /><a name="narrator" id="narrator"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/185.jpg"><img src="images/185-279.jpg" width="279" height="427" alt="RABBAH, NARRATOR OF THE SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Freyonne, Photo., Gibraltar.</i><br /><br /> +<b>RABBAH, NARRATOR OF THE SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page185" id="page185"></a><span class="left">[page 185]</span> + +<h3>XXII</h3> + +<h2>A SLAVE-GIRL'S STORY</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"After many adversities, joy."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Outside the walls of Mazagan an English traveller +had pitched his camp. Night had fallen when one +of his men, returning from the town, besought admission +to the tent.</p> +<p> +"Well, how now?"</p> +<p> +"Sir, I have a woman here, by thy leave, yes, +a woman, a slave, whom I found at the door of +thy consulate, where she had taken refuge, but the +police guard drove her away, so I brought her to +thee for justice. Have pity on her, and God will +reward thee! See, here! Rabhah!" </p> +<p> +At this bidding there approached a truly pitiable +object, a dark-skinned woman, not quite black, +though of decidedly negroid appearance—whose +tattered garments scarcely served to hide a half-starved +form. Throwing herself on the ground +before the foreigner, she begged his pity, his +assistance, for the sake of the Pitiful God.</p> +<p> +"Oh, Bashador," she pleaded, addressing him +as though a foreign envoy, "I take refuge with +God and with thee! I have no one else. I have +fled from my master, who has cruelly used me. See +my back!"</p> + +<a name="page186" id="page186"></a><span class="left">[page 186]</span> +<p> +Suiting action to word, she slipped aside the +coverings from her shoulder and revealed the weals +of many a stripe, tears streaming down her face the +while. Her tones were such as none but a heart of +stone could ignore.</p> +<p> +"I bore it ten days, sir, till I could do so no +longer, and then I escaped. It was all to make me +give false witness—from which God deliver me—for +that I will never do. My present master is the +Sheïkh bin Záharah, Lieutenant Kaïd of the Boo +Azeezi, but I was once the slave-wife of the English +agent, who sold me again, though they said that he +dare not, because of his English protection. That +was why I fled for justice to the English consul, +and now come to thee. For God's sake, succour +me!"</p> +<p> +With a sob her head fell forward on her breast, +as again she crouched at the foreigner's feet, till +made to rise and told to relate her whole story +quietly. When she was calmer, aided by questions, +she unfolded a tale which could, alas! be often +paralleled in Morocco.</p> +<p> +"My home? How can I tell thee where that +was, when I was brought away so early? All I +know is that it was in the Sûdán" (<i>i.e.</i> Land of +the Blacks), "and that I came to Mogador on my +mother's back. In my country the slave-dealers +lie in wait outside the villages to catch the children +when they play. They put them in bags like those +used for grain, with their heads left outside the necks +for air. So they are carried off, and travel all the +way to this country slung on mules, being set down +from time to time to be fed. But I, though born free, +was brought by my mother, who had been carried<a name="page187" id="page187"></a><span class="left">[page 187]</span> +off as a slave. The lines cut on my cheek show that, +for every free-born child in our country is marked +so by its mother. That is our sultan's order. +In Mogador my mother's master sold me to a man +who took me from her, and brought me to Dár el +Baïda. They took away my mother first; they +dragged her off crying, and I never saw or heard +of her again. When she was gone I cried for her, +and could not eat till they gave me sugar and sweet +dates. At Dár el Baïda I was sold in the market +auction to a shareefa named Lálla Moïna, wife of +the mountain scribe who taught the kádi's children. +With her I was very happy, for she treated me +well, and when she went to Mekka on the pilgrimage +she let me go out to work on my own account, +promising to make me free if God brought her +back safely. She was good to me, Bashador, but +though she returned safely she always put off making +me free; but I had laid by fifteen dollars, and had +bought a boxful of clothes as well. And that was +where my trouble began. For God's sake succour +me!</p> +<p> +"One day the agent saw me in the street, and +eyed me so that I was frightened of him. He +followed me home, and then sent a letter offering to +buy me, but my mistress refused. Then the agent +often came to the house, and I had to wait upon +him. He told me that he wanted to buy me, and +that if he did I should be better off than if I were +free, but I refused to listen. When the agent was +away his man Sarghîni used to come and try to +buy me, but in vain; and when the agent returned +he threatened to bring my mistress into trouble if +she refused. At last she had to yield, and I cried<a name="page188" id="page188"></a><span class="left">[page 188]</span> +when I had to go. 'Thou art sold to that man,' +she said; 'but as thou art a daughter to me, he +has promised to take care of thee and bring thee +back whenever I wish.'</p> +<p> +"Sarghîni took me out by one gate with the +servants of the agent, who took care to go out with +a big fat Jew by another, that the English consul +should not see him go out with a woman. We +rode on mules, and I wore a white cloak; I had not +then begun to fast" (<i>i.e.</i> was not yet twelve years +of age). "After two days on the road the agent +asked for the key of my box, in which he found my +fifteen dollars, tied up in a rag, and took them, but +gave me back my clothes. We were five days +travelling to Marrákesh, staying each night with +a kaïd who treated us very well. So I came to +the agent's house.</p> +<p> +"There I found many other slave girls, besides +men slaves in the garden. These were Ruby, +bought in Saffi, by whom the agent had a daughter; +and Star, a white girl stolen from her home in Sûs, +who had no children; Jessamine the Less, another +white girl bought in Marrákesh, mother of one +daughter; Jessamine the Greater, whose daughter +was her father's favourite, loaded with jewels; and +others who cooked or served, not having children, +though one had a son who died. There were +thirteen of us under an older slave who clothed and +fed us.</p> +<p> +"When the bashador came to the house the agent +shut all but five or six of us in a room, the others +waiting on him. I used to have to cook for the +bashador, for whom they had great receptions with +music and dancing-women. Next door there was a +<a name="page189" id="page189"></a><span class="left">[page 189]</span> +larger house, a fandak, where the agent kept public +women and boys, and men at the door took money +from the Muslims and Nazarenes who went there. +The missionaries who lived close by know the truth +of what I say.</p> +<p> +"A few days after I arrived I was bathed and +dressed in fresh clothes, and taken to my master's +room, as he used to call for one or another according +to fancy. But I had no child, because he struck +me, and I was sick. When one girl, named Amber, +refused to go to him because she was ill, he dragged +her off to another part of the house. Presently we +heard the report of a pistol, and he came back to +say she was dead. He had a pistol in his hand as +long as my forearm. We found the girl in a pool +of blood in agonies, and tried to flee, but had nowhere +to go. So when she was quite dead he made +us wash her. Then he brought in four men to dig +a pit, in which he said he would bury butter. When +they had gone we buried her there, and I can show +you the spot.</p> +<p> +"One day he took two men slaves and me on a +journey. One of them ran away, the other was sold +by the way. I was sold at the Tuesday market of +Sîdi bin Nûr to a dealer in slaves, whom I heard +promise my master to keep me close for three +months, and not to sell me in that place lest the +Nazarenes should get word of it. Some time after +I was bought by a tax-collector, with whom I remained +till he died, and then lived in the house of +his son. This man sold me to my present master, +who has ill-treated me as I told thee. Oh, Bashador, +when I fled from him, I came to the English consul +because I was told that the agent had had no right<a name="page190" id="page190"></a><span class="left">[page 190]</span> +to hold or sell me, since he had English protection. +Thou knowest what has happened since. Here I +am, at thy feet, imploring assistance. I beseech +thee, turn me not away. I speak truth before +God."</p> +<p> +No one could hear such a tale unmoved, and +after due inquiry the Englishman thus appealed to +secured her liberty on depositing at the British +Consulate the $140 paid for her by her owner, who +claimed her or the money. Rabhah's story, taken +down by independent persons at different times, +was afterwards told by her without variation in a +British Court of Law. Subsequently a pronouncement +as to her freedom having been made by the +British Legation at Tangier, the $140 was refunded, +and she lives free to-day. The last time the writer +saw her, in the service of a European in Morocco, +he was somewhat taken aback to find her arms +about his neck, and to have kisses showered on his +shoulders for the unimportant part that he had +played in securing her freedom.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page191" id="page191"></a><span class="left">[page 191]</span> + + +<h3>XXIII</h3> + +<h2>THE PILGRIM CAMP</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Work for the children is better than pilgrimage or holy war."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Year by year the month succeeding the fast of +Ramadán sees a motley assemblage of pilgrims +bound for Mekka, gathered at most of the North +African ports from all parts of Barbary and even +beyond, awaiting vessels bound for Alexandria or +Jedda. This comparatively easy means of covering +the distance, which includes the whole length of the +Mediterranean when the pilgrims from Morocco +are concerned—not to mention some two-thirds of +the Red Sea,—has almost entirely superseded the +original method of travelling all the way by land, in +the once imposing caravans.</p> +<p> +These historic institutions owed their importance +no less to the facilities they offered for trade, than to +the opportunity they afforded for accomplishing the +pilgrimage which is enjoined on every follower of +Mohammed. Although caravans still cross the +deserts of North Africa in considerable force from +west to east, as well as from south to north, to carry +on the trade of the countries to the south of the +Barbary States, the former are steadily dwindling +down to mere local affairs, and the number of +travellers who select the modern route by steamer<a name="page192" id="page192"></a><span class="left">[page 192]</span> +is yearly increasing, as its advantages become better +known. For the accommodation of the large +number of passengers special vessels are chartered +by speculators, and are fitted up for the occasion. +Only some £3 are charged for the whole journey +from Tangier, a thousand pilgrims being crowded +on a medium-sized merchant vessel, making the +horrors of the voyage indescribable.</p> +<p> +But the troubles of the pilgrims do not begin +here. Before they could even reach the sea some +of them will have travelled on foot for a month +from remote parts of the interior, and at the coast +they may have to endure a wearisome time of waiting +for a steamer. It is while they are thus learning +a lesson of patience at one of the Moorish ports +that I will invite you for a stroll round their encampment +on the market-place.</p> +<p> +This consists of scores of low, makeshift tents, +with here and there a better-class round one dotted +amongst them. The prevailing shape of the +majority is a modified edition of the dwelling of +the nomad Arab, to which class doubtless belongs +a fair proportion of their occupants. Across the +top of two poles about five feet high, before and +behind, a ridge-piece is placed, and over this is +stretched to the ground on either side a long piece +of palmetto or goat-hair cloth, or perhaps one of +the long woollen blankets worn by men and women +alike, called haïks, which will again be used for its +original purpose on board the vessel. The back is +formed of another piece of some sort of cloth +stretched out at the bottom to form a semi-circle, +and so give more room inside. Those who have a +bit of rug or a light mattress, spread it on the floor,<a name="page193" id="page193"></a><span class="left">[page 193]</span> +and pile their various other belongings around its +edge.</p> +<p> +The straits to which many of these poor people +are put to get a covering of any kind to shelter +them from sun, rain, and wind, are often very +severe, to judge from some of the specimens of +tents—if they deserve the name—constructed of +all sorts of odds and ends, almost anything, it +would seem, that will cover a few square inches. +There is one such to be seen on this busy market +which deserves special attention as a remarkable +example of this style of architecture. Let us examine +it. The materials of which it is composed +include hair-cloth, woollen-cloth, a cotton shirt, a +woollen cloak, and some sacking; goat skin, sheep's +fleece, straw, and palmetto cord; rush mats, a palmetto +mat, split-cane baskets and wicker baskets; +bits of wood, a piece of cork, bark and sticks; +petroleum tins flattened out, sheet iron, zinc, and +jam and other tins; an earthenware dish and a +stone bottle, with bits of crockery, stones, and a +cow's horn to weight some of the other items down. +Now, if any one can make anything of this, which +is an exact inventory of such of the materials as are +visible on the outside, he must be a born architect. +Yet here this extraordinary construction +stands, as it has stood for several months, and its +occupant looks the jolliest fellow out. Let us pay +him a visit.</p> +<p> +Stooping down to look under the flap which +serves as a door, and raising it with my stick, I +greet him with the customary salutation of "Peace +be with you." "With you be peace," is the cheery +reply, to which is added, "Welcome to thee; make<a name="page194" id="page194"></a><span class="left">[page 194]</span> +thyself at home." Although invited to enter, I feel +quite enough at home on the outside of his dwelling, +so reply that I have no time to stay, as I only +"looked in" to have the pleasure of making his +acquaintance and examining his "palace." At the +last word one or two bystanders who have gathered +round indulge in a little chuckle to themselves, +overhearing which I turn round and make the most +flattering remarks I can think of as to its beauty, +elegance, comfort, and admirable system of ventilation, +which sets the whole company, tenant included, +into a roar of laughter. Mine host is busy +cleaning fish, and now presses us to stay and share +his evening meal with him, but our appetites are +not quite equal to <i>that</i> yet, though it is beyond +doubt that the morsel he would offer us would be +as savoury and well cooked as could be supplied +by any restaurant in Piccadilly.</p> +<p> +Inquiries elicit the fact that our friend is hoping +to leave for Mekka by the first steamer, and that +meanwhile he supports himself as a water-carrier, +proudly showing us his goat-skin "bottle" lying on +the floor, with the leather flap he wears between it +and his side to protect him from the damp. Here, +too, are his chain and bell, with the bright brass +and tin cups. In fact, he is quite a "swell" in his +way, and, in spite of his uncouth-looking surroundings, +manages to enjoy life by looking on the bright +side of things.</p> +<p> +"What will you do with your palace when +you leave it?" we ask, seeing that it could not +be moved unless the whole were jumbled up in +a sack, when it would be impossible to reconstruct +it.</p> + +<a name="page195" id="page195"></a><span class="left">[page 195]</span> +<p> +"Oh, I'd let it to some one else."</p> +<p> +"For how much?"</p> +<p> +"Well, that I'd leave to God."</p> +<p> +A glance round the interior of this strange +abode shows that there are still many materials +employed in its construction which might have been +enumerated. One or two bundles, a box and a +basket round the sides, serve to support the roof, +and from the ridge-pole hangs a bundle which we +are informed contains semolina. I once saw such a +bundle suspended from a beam in a village mosque +in which I had passed the night in the guise of a +pious Muslim, and, observing its dusty condition, +inquired how it came there.</p> +<p> +"A traveller left it there about a year and a +half ago, and has not yet come for it," was the +reply; to judge from which it might remain till +Doomsday—a fact which spoke well for the honesty +of the country folk in that respect at least, +although I learned that they were notorious highwaymen.</p> +<p> +Though the roof admits daylight every few +inches, the occupier remarks that it keeps the sun +and rain off fairly well, and seems to think none +the worse of it for its transparent faults. A sick +woman lying in a native hut with a thatched roof +hardly in better condition than this one, remarked +when a visitor observed a big hole just above her +pallet bed—</p> +<p> +"Oh, it's so nice in the summer time; it lets +the breeze in so delightfully!"</p> +<p> +It was then the depth of winter, and she had +had to shift her position once or twice to avoid the +rain which came through that hole. What a lesson<a name="page196" id="page196"></a><span class="left">[page 196]</span> +in making the best of things did not that ignorant +invalid teach!</p> +<p> +Having bid the amiable water-carrier "à Dieu,"—literally +as well as figuratively—we turn towards +a group of tents further up, whence a white-robed +form has been beckoning us. After the usual salutations +have been exchanged, the eager inquiry is +made, "Is there a steamer yet?"</p> +<p> +"No; I've nothing to do with steamers—but +there's sure to be one soon."</p> +<p> +A man who evidently disbelieves me calls out, +"I've got my money for the passage, and I'll hire +a place with you, only bring the ship quickly."</p> +<p> +Since their arrival in Tangier they have learnt +to call a steamer, which they have never seen before,—or +even the sea,—a "bábor," a corruption of the +Spanish "vapor," for Arabic knows neither "v" +nor "p."</p> +<p> +Another now comes forward to know if there +is an eye-doctor in the place, for there is a mist +before his eyes, as he is well-advanced in the decline +of life. The sound of the word "doctor" brings up +a few more of the bystanders, who ask if I am one, +and as I reply in the negative, they ask who can +cure their ears, legs, stomachs, and what not. I +explain where they may find an excellent doctor, +who will be glad to do all he can for them gratis—whereat +they open their eyes incredulously,—and +that for God's sake, in the name of Seyïdná Aïsa +("Our Lord Jesus"), which they appreciate at once +with murmurs of satisfaction, though they are not +quite satisfied until they have ascertained by further +questioning that he receives no support from his +own or any other government. Hearing the name<a name="page197" id="page197"></a><span class="left">[page 197]</span> +of Seyïdná Aïsa, one of the group breaks out into +"El hamdu l'Illah, el hamdu l'Illah" ("Praise be to +God"), a snatch of a missionary hymn to a "Moody +and Sankey" tune, barely recognizable as he renders +it. He has only been here a fortnight, and disclaims +all further knowledge of the hymn or where he +heard it.</p> +<p> +Before another tent hard by sits a native barber, +bleeding a youth from a vein in the arm, for which +the fee is about five farthings. As one or two come +round to look on, he remarks, in an off-hand way—probably +with a view to increasing his practice—that +"all the pilgrims are having this done; it's +good for the internals."</p> +<p> +As we turn round to pass between two of the +tents to the row beyond, our progress is stayed by +a cord from the ridge of one to that of another, on +which are strung strips of what appear at first +sight to be leather, but on a closer inspection are +found to be pieces of meat, tripe, and apparently +chitterlings, hung out to dry in a sun temperature +of from 90° to 100° Fahrenheit. Thus is prepared +a staple article of diet for winter consumption when +fresh meat is dear, or for use on journeys, and this +is all the meat these pilgrims will taste till they +reach Mekka, or perhaps till they return. Big jars +of it, with the interstices filled up with butter, are +stowed away in the tents "among the stuff." It is +called "khalia," and is much esteemed for its tasty +and reputed aphrodisiac qualities—two ideals in +Morocco cookery,—so that it commands a relatively +good price in the market.</p> +<p> +The inmates of the next tent we look into are a +woman and two men, lying down curled up asleep<a name="page198" id="page198"></a><span class="left">[page 198]</span> +in their blankets, while a couple more of the latter +squat at the door. Having noticed our curious +glances at their khalia, they, with the expressive +motion of the closed fist which in native gesture-parlance +signifies first-rate, endeavour to impress us +with a sense of its excellence, which we do not feel +inclined to dispute after all we have eaten on former +occasions. This brings us to inquire what else +these wanderers provide for the journey of thirteen +or fourteen days one way. As bread is not to be +obtained on board, at the door of the tent a tray-full +of pieces are being converted into sun-dried rusks. +Others are provided with a kind of very hard doughnut +called "fikáks." These are flavoured with anise +and carraway seeds, and are very acceptable to a +hungry traveller when bread is scarce, though fearfully +searching to hollow teeth.</p> +<p> +Then there is a goodly supply of the national +food, kesk'soo or siksoo, better known by its +Spanish name of couscoussoo. This forms an +appetizing and lordly dish, provocative of abundant +eructations—a sign of good breeding in these +parts, wound up with a long-drawn "Praise be to +God"—at the close of a regular "tuck in" with +Nature's spoon, the fist. A similar preparation is +hand-rolled vermicelli, cooked in broth or milk, if +obtainable. A bag of semolina and another of zummeetah—parched +flour—which only needs enough +moisture to form it into a paste to prepare it for +consumption, are two other well-patronized items.</p> +<p> +A quaint story comes to mind <i>à propos</i> of the +latter, which formed part of our stock of provisions +during a journey through the province of Dukkála +when the incident in question occurred. A tin of<a name="page199" id="page199"></a><span class="left">[page 199]</span> +insect powder was also among our goods, and +by an odd coincidence both were relegated to +the pail hanging from one of our packs. Under a +spreading fig-tree near the village of Smeerah, at +lunch, some travelling companions offered us a cup +of tea, and among other dainties placed at their +disposal in return was the bag of zummeetah, of +which one of them made a good meal. Later on +in the day, as we rested again, he complained of +fearful internal gripings, which were easily explained +by the discovery of the fact that the lid of the "flea's +zummeetah," as one of our men styled it, had been +left open, and a hole in the sack of "man's zummeetah" +had allowed the two to mix in the bottom +of the pail in nearly equal proportions. When this +had been explained, no one entered more heartily +into the joke than its victim, which spoke very well +for his good temper, considering how seriously he +had been affected.</p> +<p> +But this is rather a digression from our catalogue +of the pilgrim's stock of provisions. Rancid +butter melted down in pots, honey, dates, figs, +raisins, and one or two similar items form the remainder. +Water is carried in goat-skins or in pots +made of the dried rind of a gourd, by far the most +convenient for a journey, owing to their light weight +and the absence of the prevailing taste of pitch +imparted by the leather contrivances. Several of +these latter are to be seen before the tents hanging +on tripods. One of the Moors informs us that for +the first day on board they have to provide their +own water, after which it is found for them, but +everything else they take with them. An ebony-hued +son of Ham, seated by a neighbouring tent,<a name="page200" id="page200"></a><span class="left">[page 200]</span> +replies to our query as to what he is providing, +"I take nothing," pointing heavenward to indicate +his reliance on Divine providence.</p> +<p> +And so they travel. The group before us has +come from the Sáhara, a month's long journey +overland, on foot! Yet their travels have only +commenced. Can they have realized what it all +means?</p> + +<br /><a name="steamer" id="steamer"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/201.jpg"><img src="images/201-500.jpg" width="499" height="307" alt="WAITING FOR THE STEAMER." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>WAITING FOR THE STEAMER.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<a name="page201" id="page201"></a><span class="left">[page 201]</span> + +<h3>XXIV</h3> + +<h2>RETURNING HOME</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"He lengthened absence, and returned unwelcomed."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Evening is about to fall—for fall it does in these +south latitudes, with hardly any twilight—and the +setting sun has lit the sky with a refulgent glow +that must be gazed at to be understood—the arc of +heaven overspread with glorious colour, in its turn +reflected by the heaving sea. One sound alone is +heard as I wend my way along the sandy shore; it +is the heavy thud and aftersplash of each gigantic +wave, as it breaks on the beach, and hurls itself on +its retreating predecessor, each climbing one step +higher than the last.</p> +<p> +There, in the distance, stands a motley group—men, +women, children—straining wearied eyes to +recognize the forms which crowd a cargo lighter +slowly nearing land. Away in the direction of +their looks I dimly see the outline of the pilgrim +ship, a Cardiff coaler, which has brought close on a +thousand Hájes from Port Saïd or Alexandria—men +chiefly, but among them wives and children—who +have paid that toilsome pilgrimage to Mekka.</p> +<p> +The last rays of the sun alone remain as the +boat strikes the shore, and as the darkness falls +apace a score of dusky forms make a wild rush into<a name="page202" id="page202"></a><span class="left">[page 202]</span> +the surging waters, while an equal number rise up +eager in the boat to greet their friends. So soon +as they are near enough to be distinguished one +from another, each watcher on the beach shouts the +name of the friend he is awaiting, proud to affix, for +the first time, the title Háj—Pilgrim—to his name. +As only some twenty or thirty have yet landed +from among so many hundreds, the number of disappointed +ones who have to turn back and bide +their time is proportionately large.</p> +<p> +"Háj Mohammed! Háj Abd es-Slám! Háj +el Arbi! Háj boo Sháïb! Ah, Háj Drees!" and +many such ejaculations burst from their lips, together +with inquiries as to whether So-and-so may be on +board. One by one the weary travellers once more +step upon the land which is their home, and with +assistance from their friends unload their luggage.</p> +<p> +Now a touching scene ensues. Strong men fall +on one another's necks like girls, kissing and embracing +with true joy, each uttering a perfect volley +of inquiries, compliments, congratulations, or condolence. +Then, with child-like simplicity, the stayer-at-home +leads his welcome relative or friend by the +hand to the spot where his luggage has been +deposited, and seating themselves thereon they +soon get deep into a conversation which renders +them oblivious to all around, as the one relates the +wonders of his journeyings, the other the news of +home.</p> +<p> +Poor creatures! Some months ago they started, +full of hope, on an especially trying voyage of +several weeks, cramped more closely than emigrants, +exposed both to sun and rain, with hardly a change +of clothing, and only the food they had brought with<a name="page203" id="page203"></a><span class="left">[page 203]</span> +them. Arrived at their destination, a weary march +across country began, and was repeated after they +had visited the various points, and performed the +various rites prescribed by the Korán or custom, +finally returning as they went, but not all, as the +sorrow-stricken faces of some among the waiters +on the beach had told, and the muttered exclamation, +"It is written—<i>Mektoob</i>."</p> +<p> +Meanwhile the night has come. The Creator's +loving Hand has caused a myriad stars to shine +forth from the darkness, in some measure to +replace the light of day, while as each new boat-load +is set down the same scenes are enacted, and +the crowd grows greater and greater, the din of +voices keeping pace therewith.</p> +<p> +Donkey-men having appeared on the scene with +their patient beasts, they clamour for employment, +and those who can afford it avail themselves of their +services to get their goods transported to the city. +What goods they are, too! All sorts of products +of the East done up in boxes of the most varied +forms and colours, bundles, rolls, and bales. The +owners are apparently mere bundles of rags themselves, +but they seem no less happy for that.</p> +<p> +Seated on an eminence at one side are several +customs officers who have been delegated to inspect +these goods; their flowing garments and +generally superior attire afford a striking contrast +to the state of the returning pilgrims, or even +to that of the friends come to meet them. These +officials have their guards marching up and down +between and round about the groups, to see that +nothing is carried off without inspection.</p> +<p> +Little by little the crowd disperses; those whose<a name="page204" id="page204"></a><span class="left">[page 204]</span> +friends have landed escort them to their homes, +leaving those who will have to continue their +journey overland alone, making hasty preparations +for their evening meal. The better class speedily +have tents erected, but the majority will have to +spend the night in the open air, probably in the +rain, for it is beginning to spatter already. Fires +are lit in all directions, throwing a lurid light upon +the interesting picture, and I turn my horse's head +towards home with a feeling of sadness, but at the +same time one of thankfulness that my lot was not +cast where theirs is.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page205" id="page205"></a><span class="left">[page 205]</span> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h2>PART II</h2> + +<h3>XXV</h3> + +<h2>DIPLOMACY IN MOROCCO</h2> + + +<table align="center" summary="Moorish Proverb" border="0"> +<tr> + <td> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>"The Beheaded was abusing the Flayed:</p> +<p>One with her throat cut passed by, and exclaimed,</p> + <p class="i4">'God deliver us from such folk!'"</p> + </div> +</div> + </td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Instead of residing at the Court of the Sultan, as +might be expected, the ministers accredited to the +ruler of Morocco take up their abode in Tangier, +where they are more in touch with Europe, and +where there is greater freedom for pig-sticking. +The reason for this is that the Court is not permanently +settled anywhere, wintering successively +at one of the three capitals, Fez, Marrákesh, or +Mequinez. Every few years, when anything of +note arises; when there is an accumulation of +matters to be discussed with the Emperor, or when +a new representative has been appointed, an embassy +to Court is undertaken, usually in spring or autumn, +the best times to travel in this roadless land.</p> +<p> +What happens on these embassies has often +enough been related from the point of view of the +performers, but seldom from that of residents in the +country who know what happens, and the following +peep behind the scenes, though fortunately not +typical of all, is not exaggerated. Even more might +have been told under some heads. As strictly<a name="page206" id="page206"></a><span class="left">[page 206]</span> +applicable to no Power at present represented in +Morocco, the record is that of an imaginary embassy +from Greece some sixty or more years ago. To +prevent misconception, it may be as well to add +that it was written previous to the failure of the +mission of Sir Charles Euan Smith.</p> + + +<h4>I. <span class="sc">The Reception</span></h4> +<p> +In a sloop-of-war sent all the way from the +Ægean, the Ambassador and his suite sailed from +Tangier to Saffi, where His Excellency was received +on landing by a Royal salute from the crumbling +batteries. The local governor and the Greek vice-consul +awaited him on leaving the surf boat, with +an escort which sadly upset the operations of women +washing wool by the water-port. Outside the land-gate, +beside the ancient palace, was pitched a +Moorish camp awaiting his arrival, and European +additions were soon erected beside it. At daybreak +next morning a luncheon-party rode forward, +whose duty it was to prepare the midday meal for +the embassy, and to pitch the awning under which +they should partake of it.</p> +<p> +Arrived at the spot selected, Drees, the "native +agent," found the village sheïkh awaiting him with +ample supplies, enough for every one for a couple of +days. This he carefully packed on his mules, and +by the time the embassy came up, having started +some time later than he, after a good breakfast, he +was ready to go on again with the remainder of the +muleteers and the camel-drivers to prepare the +evening meal and pitch for the night a camp over +which waved the flag of Greece.</p> +<p> +Here the offerings of provisions or money were<a name="page207" id="page207"></a><span class="left">[page 207]</span> +made with equal profusion. There were bushels of +kesk'soo; there were several live sheep, which were +speedily despatched and put into pots to cook; +there were jars of honey, of oil, and of butter; +there were camel-loads of barley for the beasts of +burden, and trusses of hay for their dessert; there +were packets of candles by the dozen, and loaves of +sugar and pounds of tea; not to speak of fowls, +of charcoal, of sweet herbs, of fruits, and of minor +odds and ends.</p> +<p> +By the time the Europeans arrived, their French +<i>chef</i> had prepared an excellent dinner, the native +escort and servants squatting in groups round +steaming dishes provided ready cooked by half-starved +villagers. When the feasting was over, and +all seemed quiet, a busy scene was in reality being +enacted in the background. At a little distance +from the camp, Háj Marti, the right-hand man of +the agent, was holding a veritable market with the +surplus mona of the day, re-selling to the miserable +country folk what had been wrung from them by the +authorities. The Moorish Government declared +that what they paid thus in kind would be deducted +from their taxes, and this was what the Minister +assured his questioning wife, for though he knew +better, he found it best to wink at the proceedings +of his unpaid henchman.</p> +<p> +As they proceeded inland, on the border of each +local jurisdiction the escort was changed with an +exhibition of "powder-play," the old one retiring as +the new one advanced with the governor at its +head. Thus they journeyed for about a week, till +they reached the crumbling walls of palm-begirt +Marrákesh.</p> + +<a name="page208" id="page208"></a><span class="left">[page 208]</span> + <p> +The official <i>personnel</i> of the embassy consisted +of the Minister and his secretary Nikolaki Glymenopoulos, +with Ayush ben Lezrá, the interpreter. The +secretary was a self-confident dandy with a head +like a pumpkin and a scrawl like the footprints +of a wandering hen; reputed a judge of ladies and +horse-flesh; supercilious, condescending to inferiors, +and the plague of his tailor. The consul, Paolo +Komnenos, a man of middle age with a kindly heart, +yet without force of character to withstand the evils +around him, had been left in Tangier as <i>Chargé +d'Affaires</i>, to the great satisfaction of his wife and +family, who considered themselves of the <i>crême de +la crême</i> of Tangier society, such as it was, because, +however much the wife of the Minister despised +the bumptiousness of Madame Komnenos, she +could not omit her from her invitations, unless of +the most private nature, on account of her husband's +official position. Now, as Madame Mavrogordato +accompanied her husband with her little son and +a lady friend, the consul's wife reigned supreme.</p> +<p> +Then there were the official <i>attachés</i> for the +occasion, the representative of the army, a colonel +of Roman nose, and eyes which required but one +glass between them, a man to whom death would +have been preferable to going one morning unshaved, +or to failing one jot in military etiquette; and the +representative of the navy, in cocked hat and gold-striped +pantaloons, who found it more difficult to +avoid tripping over his sword than most landsmen +do to keep from stumbling over coils of rope +on ship-board; beyond his costume there was little +of note about him; his genial character made it +easy to say "Ay, ay," to any one, but the yarns he<a name="page209" id="page209"></a><span class="left">[page 209]</span> +could spin round the camp-fire made him a general +favourite. The least consequential of the party was +the doctor, an army man of honest parts, who wished +well to all the world. Undoubtedly he was the +hardest worked of the lot, for no one else did anything +but enjoy himself.</p> +<p> +Finally there were the "officious" <i>attachés</i>. +Every dabbler in politics abroad knows the fine +distinctions between "official" and "officious" action, +and how subtle are the changes which can be rung +upon the two, but there was nothing of that description +here. The officious <i>attachés</i> were simply a +party of the Minister's personal friends, and two or +three strangers whose influence might in after times +be useful to him. One was of course a journalist, +to supply the special correspondence of the <i>Acropolis</i> +and the <i>Hellenike Salpinx</i>. These would afterwards +be worked up into a handy illustrated volume of +experiences and impressions calculated to further +deceive the public with regard to Morocco and the +Moors, and to secure for the Minister his patron, +the longed-for promotion to a European Court. +Another was necessarily the artist of the party, +while the remainder engaged in sport of one kind +or another.</p> +<p> +Si Drees, the "native agent," was employed as +master of horse, and superintended the native +arrangements generally. With him rested every +detail of camping out, and the supply of food and +labour. Right and left he was the indispensable +factotum, shouting himself hoarse from before dawn +till after sunset, when he joined the gay blades of +the Embassy in private pulls at forbidden liquors. +No one worked as hard as he, and he seemed<a name="page210" id="page210"></a><span class="left">[page 210]</span> +omnipresent. The foreigners were justly thankful to +have such a man, for without him all felt at sea. +He appeared to know everything and to be available +for every one's assistance. The only draw-back was +his ignorance of Greek, or of any language but his +own, yet being sharp-witted he made himself +wonderfully understood by signs and a few words +of the strange coast jargon, a mixture of half a +dozen tongues.</p> +<p> +The early morning was fixed for the solemn +entry of the Embassy into the city, yet the road +had to be lined on both sides with soldiers to keep +back the thronging crowds. Amid the din of multitudes, +the clashing of barbarous music, and shrill +ululations of delight from native women; surrounded +by an eastern blaze of sun and blended colours, +rode incongruous the Envoy from Greece. His stiff, +grim figure, the embodiment of officialism, in full +Court dress, was supported on either hand by his +secretary and interpreter, almost as resplendent as +himself. Behind His Excellency rode the <i>attachés</i> +and other officials, then the ladies; newspaper correspondents, +artists, and other non-official guests, +bringing up the rear. In this order the party +crossed the red-flowing Tansift by its low bridge +of many arches, and drew near to the gate of +Marrákesh called that of the Thursday [market], +Báb el Khamees.</p> + +<br /><a name="gateway" id="gateway"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/211.jpg"><img src="images/211-284.jpg" width="284" height="430" alt="A CITY GATEWAY IN MOROCCO." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Molinari, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A CITY GATEWAY IN MOROCCO.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +At last they commenced to thread the narrow +winding streets, their bordering roofs close packed +with shrouded figures only showing an eye, who +greeted them after their fashion with a piercing, +long-drawn, "Yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo; yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo; +yoo-yoo, yoo-yoo—oo," so novel to the strangers,<a name="page211" id="page211"></a><span class="left">[page 211]</span> +and so typical. Then they crossed the wide-open +space before the Kûtûbîyah on their way to the +garden which had been prepared for them, the +Mamûnîyah, with its handsome residence and shady +walks.</p> +<p> +Three days had to elapse from the time of their +arrival before they could see the Sultan, for they +were now under native etiquette, but they had much +to occupy them, much to see and think about, +though supposed to remain at home and rest till the +audience. On the morning of the fourth day all was +bustle. Each had to array himself in such official +garb as he could muster, with every decoration he +could borrow, for the imposing ceremony of the +presentation to the Emperor. What a business it +was! what a coming and going; what noise and +what excitement! It was like living in the thick of +a whirling pantomime.</p> +<p> +At length they were under way, and making +towards the kasbah gate in a style surpassing that +of their entry, the populace still more excited at the +sight of the gold lace and cocked hats which showed +what great men had come to pay their homage to +their lord the Sultan. On arrival at the inmost +courtyard with whitewashed, battlemented walls, +and green-tiled roofs beyond, they found it thickly +lined with soldiers, a clear space being left for them +in the centre. Here they were all ranged on foot, +the presents from King Otho placed on one side, +and covered with rich silk cloths. Presently a blast +of trumpets silenced the hum of voices, and the +soldiers made a show of "attention" in their undrilled +way, for the Sultan approached.</p> +<p> +In a moment the great doors on the other side<a name="page212" id="page212"></a><span class="left">[page 212]</span> +flew open, and a number of gaily dressed natives in +peaked red caps—the Royal body-guard—emerged, +followed by five prancing steeds, magnificent barbs +of different colours, richly caparisoned, led by gold-worked +bridles. Then came the Master of the +Ceremonies in his flowing robes and monster turban, +a giant in becoming dress, and—as they soon discovered—of +stentorian voice. Behind him rode the +Emperor himself in stately majesty, clothed in pure +white, wool-white, distinct amid the mass of colours +worn by those surrounding him, his ministers. The +gorgeous trappings of his white steed glittered as +the proud beast arched his neck and champed his +gilded bit, or tried in vain to prance. Over his head +was held by a slave at his side the only sign of +Royalty, a huge red-silk umbrella with a fringe to +match, and a golden knob on the point, while others +of the household servants flicked the flies away, or +held the spurs, the cushion, the carpet, and other +things which might be called for by their lord.</p> +<p> +On his appearance deafening shouts broke forth, +"God bless our Lord, and give him victory!" The +rows of soldiers bowed their heads and repeated the +cry with still an increase of vigour, "God bless our +Lord, and give him victory!" At a motion from +the Master of the Ceremonies the members of the +Embassy took off their hats or helmets, and the +representative of modern Greece stood there bareheaded +in a broiling sun before the figure-head of +ancient Barbary. As the Sultan approached the +place where he stood, he drew near and offered a +few stereotyped words in explanation of his errand, +learned by heart, to which the Emperor replied by +bidding him welcome. The Minister then handed<a name="page213" id="page213"></a><span class="left">[page 213]</span> +to him an engrossed address in a silk embroided +case, which an attendant was motioned to take, the +Sultan acknowledging it graciously. One by one +the Minister next introduced the members of his +suite, their names and qualities being shouted in +awful tones by the Master of the Ceremonies, and +after once more bidding them welcome, but with a +scowl at the sight of Drees, His Majesty turned his +horse's head, leaving them to re-mount as their steeds +were brought to them. Again the music struck up +with a deafening din, and the state reception was +over.</p> +<p> +But this was not to be the only interview between +the Ambassador and the Sultan, for several so-called +private conferences followed, at which an +attendant or two and the interpreter Ayush were +present. Kyrios Mavrogordato's stock of polite +workable Arabic had been exhausted at the public +function, and for business matters he had to rely +implicitly on the services of his handy Jew. Such +other notions of the language as he boasted could +only be addressed to inferiors, and that but to +convey the most simple of crude instructions or +curses.</p> +<p> +At the first private audience there were many +matters of importance to be brought before the +Sultan's notice, afterwards to be relegated to the +consideration of his wazeers. This time no fuss +was made, and the affair again came off in the early +morning, for His Majesty rose at three, and after +devotions and study transacted official business from +five to nine, then breakfasting and reserving the +rest of the day for recreation and further religious +study.</p> + +<br /> +<a name="page214" id="page214"></a><span class="left">[page 214]</span> + + +<h4>II. <span class="sc">The Interview</span></h4> + +<p> +At the appointed time an escort waited on the +Ambassador<a name="XXV1r" id="XXV1r"></a><a href="#XXV1"><sup>*</sup></a> to convey him to the palace, arrived +at which he was led into one of the many gardens +in the interior, full of luxuriant semi-wild vegetation. +In a room opening on to one side of the garden +sat the Emperor, tailor-fashion, on a European sofa, +elevated by a sort of daïs opposite the door. With +the exception of an armchair on the lower level, +to which the Ambassador was motioned after the +usual formal obeisances and expressions of respect, +the chamber was absolutely bare of furniture, though +not lacking in beauty of decoration. The floor was +of plain cut but elegant tiles, and the dado was a +more intricate pattern of the same in shades of +blue, green, and yellow, interspersed with black, but +relieved by an abundance of greeny white. Above +this, to the stalactite cornice, the walls were decorated +with intricate Mauresque designs in carved white +plaster, while the rich stalactite roofing of deep-red +tone, just tipped with purple and gilt, made a perfect +whole, and gave a feeling of repose to the design. +Through the huge open horse-shoe arch of the +door the light streamed between the branches of +graceful creepers waving in the breeze, adding to +the impression of coolness caused by the bubbling +fountain outside.</p> +<p> +"May God bless our Lord, and prolong his +days!" said Ayush, bowing profoundly towards the +Sultan, as the Minister concluded the repetition +of his stock phrases, and seated himself.</p> +<p> +"May it please Your Majesty," began the<a name="page215" id="page215"></a><span class="left">[page 215]</span> +Minister, in Greek, "I cannot express the honour +I feel in again being commissioned to approach +Your Majesty in the capacity of Ambassador from +my Sovereign, King Otho of Greece."</p> +<p> +This little speech was rendered into Arabic by +Ayush to this effect—</p> +<p> +"May God pour blessings on our Lord. The +Ambassador rejoices greatly, and is honoured above +measure in being sent once more by his king to +approach the presence of our Lord, the high and +mighty Sovereign: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +"He is welcome," answered the Sultan, graciously; +"we love no nation better than the Greeks. +They have always been our friends."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty is delighted to see +Your Excellency, whom he loves from his heart, +as also your mighty nation, than which none is +more dear to him, and whose friendship he is ready +to maintain at any cost."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "It pleases me greatly to hear Your +Majesty's noble sentiments, which I, and I am sure +my Government, reciprocate."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister is highly complimented +by the gracious words of our Lord, and +declares that the Greeks love no other nation on +earth beside the Moors: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "Is there anything I can do for such +good friends?"</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty says he is ready +to do anything for so good a friend as Your +Excellency."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "I am deeply grateful to His +Majesty. Yes, there are one or two matters which +my Government would like to have settled."</p> + +<a name="page216" id="page216"></a><span class="left">[page 216]</span> + <p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister is simply overwhelmed +at the thought of the consideration of +our Lord, and he has some trifling matters for +which perhaps he may beg our Lord's attention: +yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "He has only to make them known."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty will do all Your +Excellency desires."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "First then, Your Majesty, there is +the little affair of the Greek who was murdered +last year at Azîla. I am sure that I can rely on +an indemnity for his widow."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister speaks of the +Greek who was murdered—by your leave, yes, my +Lord—at Azîla last year: yes, my Lord. The +Ambassador wishes him to be paid for."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "How much does he ask?"</p> +<p> +This being duly interpreted, the Minister +replied—</p> +<p> +"Thirty thousand dollars."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "Half that sum would do, but we will +see. What next?"</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty thinks that too +much, but as Your Excellency says, so be it."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "I thank His Majesty, and beg to +bring to his notice the imprisonment of a Greek +<i>protégé</i>, Mesaûd bin Aûdah, at Mazagan some +months ago, and to ask for his liberation and for +damages. This is a most important case."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister wants that thief +Mesaûd bin Aûdah, whom the Báshá of Mazagan +has in gaol, to be let out, and he asks also for +damages: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "The man was no lawful <i>protégé</i>. I<a name="page217" id="page217"></a><span class="left">[page 217]</span> +can do nothing in the case. Bin Aûdah is a +criminal, and cannot be protected."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty fears that this is a +matter in which he cannot oblige Your Excellency, +much as he would like to, since the man in question +is a thief. It is no use saying anything further +about this."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "Then ask about that Jew Botbol, +who was thrashed. Though not a <i>protégé</i>, His +Majesty might be able to do something."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Excellency brings before +our Lord a most serious matter indeed; yes, my +Lord. It is absolutely necessary that redress should +be granted to Maimon Botbol, the eminent +merchant of Mogador whom the kaïd of that place +most brutally treated last year: yes, my Lord. +And this is most important, for Botbol is a +great friend of His Excellency, who has taken the +treatment that the poor man received very much to +heart. He is sure that our Lord will not hesitate +to order the payment of the damages demanded, +only fifty thousand dollars."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "In consideration of the stress the +Minister lays upon this case, he shall have ten +thousand dollars."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty will pay Your +Excellency ten thousand dollars damages."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "As that is more than I had even +hoped to ask, you will duly thank His Majesty +most heartily for this spontaneous generosity."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister says that is not +sufficient from our Lord, but he will not oppose his +will: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "I cannot do more."</p> + +<a name="page218" id="page218"></a><span class="left">[page 218]</span> + <p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty says it gives him +great pleasure to pay it."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "Now there is the question of +slavery. I have here a petition from a great +society at Athens requesting His Majesty to consider +whether he cannot abolish the system throughout +his realm," handing the Sultan an elaborate +Arabic scroll in Syrian characters hard to be +deciphered even by the secretary to whom it is +consigned for perusal; the Sultan, though an +Arabic scholar, not taking sufficient interest in the +matter to think of it again.</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "There are some fanatics in the +land of Greece, yes, my Lord, who want to see +slavery abolished here, by thy leave, yes, my Lord, +but I will explain to the Bashador that this is +impossible."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "Certainly. It is an unalterable institution. +Those who think otherwise are fools. +Besides, your agent Drees deals in slaves!"</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty will give the petition +his best attention, and if possible grant it with +pleasure."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "You will thank His Majesty very +much. It will rejoice my fellow-countrymen to +hear it. Next, a Greek firm has offered to construct +the much-needed port at Tangier, if His +Majesty will grant us the concession till the work +be paid for by the tolls. Such a measure would +tend to greatly increase the Moorish revenues."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister wishes to build a +port at Tangier, yes, my Lord, and to hold it till +the tolls have paid for it."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "Which may not be till Doomsday.<a name="page219" id="page219"></a><span class="left">[page 219]</span> +Nevertheless, I will consent to any one making the +port whom all the European representatives shall +agree to appoint"—a very safe promise to make, +since the Emperor knew that this agreement was +not likely to be brought about till the said Domesday.</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "Your Excellency's request is +granted. You have only to obtain the approval of +your colleagues."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "His Majesty is exceedingly gracious, +and I am correspondingly obliged to him. Inform +His Majesty that the same firm is willing to build +him bridges over his rivers, and to make roads +between the provinces, which would increase friendly +communications, and consequently tend to reduce +inter-tribal feuds."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister thanks our Lord, +and wants also to build bridges and roads in the +interior to make the tribes friendly by intercourse."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "That would never do. The more I +keep the tribes apart the better for me. If I did +not shake up my rats in the sack pretty often, they +would gnaw their way out. Besides, where my +people could travel more easily, so could foreign +invaders. No, I cannot think of such a thing. +God created the world without bridges."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty is full of regret that +in this matter he is unable to please Your Excellency, +but he thinks his country better as it is."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "Although I beg to differ from His +Majesty, so be it. Next there is the question of +our commerce with Morocco. This is greatly +hampered by the present lack of a fixed customs +tariff. There are several articles of which the<a name="page220" id="page220"></a><span class="left">[page 220]</span> +exportation is now prohibited, which it would be +really very much in the interest of his people to +allow us to purchase."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister requests of our +Lord a new customs tariff, and the right to export +wheat and barley."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "The tariff he may discuss with the +Wazeer of the Interior; I will give instructions. +As for the cereals, the bread of the Faithful cannot +be given to infidels."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty accedes to your +Excellency's request. You have only to make +known the details to the Minister for Internal +Affairs."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "Again I humbly render thanks to +his Majesty. Since he is so particularly good to +me, perhaps he would add one kindness more, in +abandoning to me the old house and garden on the +Marshan at Tangier, in which the Foreign Minister +used to live. It is good for nothing, and would be +useful to me."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister asks our Lord for a +couple of houses in Tangier. Yes, my Lord, the +one formerly occupied by the Foreign Minister on +the Marshan at Tangier for himself; and the other +adjoining the New Mosque in town, just an old +tumble-down place for stores, to be bestowed upon +me; yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "What sort of place is that on the +Marshan?"</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "I will not lie unto my lord. It +is a fine big house in a large garden, with wells and +fruit trees: yes, my Lord. But the other is a mere +nothing: yes, my Lord."</p> + +<a name="page221" id="page221"></a><span class="left">[page 221]</span> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "I will do as he wishes—if it please +God." (The latter expression showing the reverse +of an intention to carry out the former.)</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty gives you the house."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "His Majesty is indeed too kind to +me. I therefore regret exceedingly having to bring +forward a number of claims which have been pending +for a long time, but with the details of which I +will not of course trouble His Majesty personally. +I merely desire his instructions to the Treasury to +discharge them on their being admitted by the competent +authorities."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "The Minister brings before our +Lord a number of claims, on the settlement of which +he insists: yes, my Lord. He feels it a disgrace +that they should have remained unpaid so long: +yes, my Lord. And he asks for orders to be given +to discharge them at once."</p> +<p> +<i>Sultan.</i> "There is neither force nor power +save in God, the High, the Mighty. Glory to +Him! There is no telling what these Nazarenes +won't demand next. I will pay all just claims, of +course, but many of these are usurers' frauds, with +which I will have nothing to do."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Majesty will give the necessary +instructions; but the claims will have to be +examined, as Your Excellency has already suggested. +His Majesty makes the sign of the conclusion +of our interview."</p> +<p> +<i>Minister.</i> "Assure His Majesty how deeply +indebted I am to him for these favours he has +shown me, but allow me to in some measure +acknowledge them by giving information of importance. +I am entirely <i>au courant</i>, through private<a name="page222" id="page222"></a><span class="left">[page 222]</span> +channels, with the unworthy tactics of the British +Minister, as also those of his two-faced colleagues, +the representatives of France and Spain, and can +disclose them to His Majesty whenever he desires."</p> +<p> +<i>Interpreter.</i> "His Excellency does not know +how to express his gratitude to our Lord for his +undeserved and unprecedented condescension, and +feels himself bound the slave of our Lord, willing +to do all our Lord requires of his hands; yes, my +lord. But he trusts that our Lord will not forget +the houses—and the one in town is only a little one,—or +the payment of the indemnity to Maimon +Botbol, yes, my Lord, or the discharging of the +claims. God bless our Lord, and give him victory! +And also, pardon me, my Lord, the Minister says +that all the other ministers are rogues, and he +knows all about them that our Lord may wish to +learn: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +"God is omniscient. He can talk of those +matters to the Foreign Minister to-morrow. In +peace!"</p> +<p> +Once more a few of his stock phrases were +manœuvred by Kyrios Mavrogordato, as with the +most profound of rear-steering bows the representatives +of civilization retreated, and the potentate of +Barbary turned with an air of relief to give instructions +to his secretary.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXV1" id="XXV1"></a> +<a href="#XXV1r">*</a> Strictly speaking, only "Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy +Extraordinary."</p> + +<br /> + +<h4>III. <span class="sc">The Result</span></h4> +<p> +A few weeks after this interview the <i>Hellenike +Salpinx</i>, a leading journal of Athens, contained an +article of which the following is a translation:—</p> + +<br /> + +<a name="page223" id="page223"></a><span class="left">[page 223]</span> + + +<h4>"OUR INTERESTS IN MOROCCO</h4> + +<p class="center1">" +(<i>From our Special Correspondent</i>)</p> +<p class="author"> +"Marrákesh, October 20.</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"The success of our Embassy to Morocco is already +assured, and that in a remarkable degree. The Sultan has +once more shown most unequivocally his strong partiality +for the Greek nation, and especially for their distinguished +representative, Kyrios Dimitri Mavrogordato, whose personal +tact and influence have so largely contributed to +this most thankworthy result. It is very many years since +such a number of requests have been granted by the +Emperor of Morocco to one ambassador, and it is probable +that under the most favourable circumstances no other +Power could have hoped for such an exhibition of favour.</p> +<p> +"The importance of the concessions is sufficient to mark +this embassy in the history of European relations with +Morocco, independently of the amount of ordinary business +transacted, and the way in which the Sultan has promised +to satisfy our outstanding claims. Among other favours, +permission has been granted to a Greek firm to construct +a port at Tangier, the chief seat of foreign trade in the +Empire, which is a matter of national importance, and +there is every likelihood of equally valuable concessions +for the building of roads and bridges being made to the +same company.</p> +<p> +"Our merchants will be rejoiced to learn that at last +the vexatious customs regulations, or rather the absence +of them, will be replaced by a regular tariff, which our +minister has practically only to draw up for it to be +sanctioned by the Moorish Government. The question of +slavery, too, is under the consideration of the Sultan with +a view to its restriction, if not to its abolition, a distinct +and unexpected triumph for the friends of universal +freedom. There can be no question that, under its present +enlightened ruler, Morocco is at last on the high-road to +civilization.</p> +<p> +"Only those who have had experience in dealing with<a name="page224" id="page224"></a><span class="left">[page 224]</span> +procrastinating politicians of the eastern school can appreciate +in any degree the consummate skill and patience +which is requisite to overcome the sinuosities of oriental +minds, and it is only such a signal victory as has just been +won for Greece and for progress in Morocco, as can enable +us to realize the value to the State of such diplomatists as +His Excellency, Kyrios Mavrogordato." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +This article had not appeared in print before +affairs on the spot wore a very different complexion. +At the interview with the Minister for the +Interior a most elaborate customs tariff had been +presented and discussed, some trifling alterations +being made, and the whole being left to be submitted +to the Sultan for his final approval, with the +assurance that this was only a matter of form. The +Minister of Finance had promised most blandly the +payment of the damages demanded for the murder +of the Greek and for the thrashing of the Jew. It +was true that as yet no written document had been +handed to the Greek Ambassador, but then he had +the word of the Ministers themselves, and promises +from the Sultan's lips as well. The only <i>fait +accompli</i> was the despatch of a courier to Tangier +with orders to deliver up the keys of two specified +properties to the Ambassador and his interpreter +respectively, a matter which, strange to say, found +no place in the messages to the Press, and in which +the spontaneous present to the interpreter struck +His Excellency as a most generous act on the part +of the Sultan.</p> +<p> +Quite a number of state banquets had been +given, in which the members of the Embassy had +obtained an insight into stylish native cooking, +writing home that half the dishes were prepared<a name="page225" id="page225"></a><span class="left">[page 225]</span> +with pomatum and the other half with rancid oil +and butter. The <i>littérateur</i> of the party had nearly +completed his work on Morocco, and was seriously +thinking of a second volume. The young <i>attachés</i> +could swear right roundly in Arabic, and were becoming +perfect connoisseurs of native beauty. In +the palatial residence of Drees, as well as in a +private residence which that worthy had placed at +their disposal, they had enjoyed a selection of native +female society, and had such good times under the +wing of that "rare old cock," as they dubbed him, +that one or two began to feel as though they had +lighted among the lotus eaters, and had little desire +to return.</p> +<p> +But to Kyrios Mavrogordato and Glymenopoulos +his secretary, the delay at Court began to +grow irksome, and they heartily wished themselves +back in Tangier. Notwithstanding the useful "tips" +which he had given to the Foreign Minister regarding +the base designs of his various colleagues +accredited to that Court, his own affairs seemed to +hang fire. He had shown how France was determined +to make war upon Morocco sooner or later, +with a view to adding its fair plains to those it was +acquiring in Algeria, and had warned him that if the +Sultan lent assistance to the Ameer Abd el Káder +he would certainly bring this trouble upon himself. +He had also shown how England pretended friendship +because at any cost she must maintain at least +the neutrality of that part of his country bordering +on the Straits of Gibraltar, and that with all her +professions of esteem, she really cared not a straw +for the Moors. He had shown too that puny Spain +held it as an article of faith that Morocco should<a name="page226" id="page226"></a><span class="left">[page 226]</span> +one day become hers in return for the rule of the +Moors upon her own soil. He had, in fact, shown +that Greece alone cared for the real interests of the +Sultan.</p> + +<br /> + +<h4>IV. <span class="sc">Diamond Cut Diamond</span></h4> +<p> +Yet things did not move. The treaty of commerce +remained unsigned, and slaves were still +bought and sold. The numerous claims which he +had to enforce had only been passed in part, and +the Moorish authorities seemed inclined to dispute +the others stoutly. At last, at a private conference +with the Wazeer el Kiddáb, the Ambassador +broached a proposal to cut the Gordian knot. +He would abandon all disputed claims for a lump +sum paid privately to himself, and asked what +the Moorish Government might feel inclined to +offer.</p> +<p> +The Wazeer el Kiddáb received this proposal +with great complacency. He was accustomed to +such overtures. Every day of his life that style of +bargain was part of his business. But this was the +first time that a European ambassador had made +such a suggestion in its nakedness, and he was +somewhat taken aback, though his studied indifference +of manner did not allow the foreigner to suspect +such a thing for a moment. The usual style +had been for him to offer present after present to +the ambassadors till he had reached their price, and +then, when his master had overloaded them with +personal favours—many of which existed but in +promise—they had been unable to press too hard +the claims they had come to enforce, for fear of<a name="page227" id="page227"></a><span class="left">[page 227]</span> +possible disclosures. So this was a novel proceeding, +though quite comprehensible on the part of a +man who had been bribed on a less extensive scale +on each previous visit to Court. Once, however, +such a proposition had been made, it was evident +that his Government could not be much in earnest +regarding demands which he could so easily afford +to set aside.</p> +<p> +As soon, therefore, as Kyrios Mavrogordato +had left, the Wazeer ordered his mule, that he +might wait upon His Majesty before the hours of +business were over. His errand being stated as +urgent and private, he was admitted without delay +to his sovereign's presence.</p> +<p> +"May God prolong the days of our Lord! I +come to say that the way to rid ourselves of the +importunity of this ambassador from Greece is +plain. He has made it so himself by offering to +abandon all disputed claims for a round sum down +for his own use. What is the pleasure of my +Lord?"</p> +<p> +"God is great!" exclaimed the Sultan, "that is +well. You may inform the Minister from me that +a positive refusal is given to every demand not +already allowed in writing. What <i>he</i> can afford to +abandon, <i>I</i> can't afford to pay."</p> +<p> +"The will of our Lord shall be done."</p> +<p> +"But stay! I have had my eye upon that +Greek ambassador this long while, and am getting +tired of him. The abuses he commits are atrocious, +and his man Drees is a devil. Háj Taïb el Ghassál +writes that the number of his <i>protégés</i> is legion, and +that by far the greater number of them are illegal. +Inform him when you see him that henceforth the<a name="page228" id="page228"></a><span class="left">[page 228]</span> +provisions of our treaties shall be strictly adhered to, +and moreover that no protection certificates shall be +valid unless countersigned by our Foreign Commissioner +El Ghassál. If I rule here, I will put an end +to this man's doings."</p> +<p> +"On my head and eyes be the words of my +Lord."</p> +<p> +"And remind him further that the permits for +the free passage of goods at the customs are granted +only for his personal use, for the necessities of his +household, and that the way Háj Taïb writes he +has been selling them is a disgrace. The man is a +regular swindler, and the less we have to do with +him the better. As for his pretended information +about his colleagues, there may be a good deal of +truth in it, but I have the word of the English +minister, who is about as honest as any of them, +that this Mavrogordato is a born villain, and that if +his Government is not greedy for my country on +its own account, it wants to sell me to some more +powerful neighbour in exchange for its protection. +Greece is only a miserable fag-end of Europe."</p> +<p> +"Our Lord knows: may God give him victory," +and the Wazeer bowed himself out to consider how +best he might obey his instructions, not exactly +liking the task. On returning home he despatched +a messenger to the quarters of the Embassy, +appointing an hour on the morrow for a conference, +and when this came the Ambassador found himself +in for a stormy interview. The Wazeer, with his +snuff-box in constant use, sat cool and collected on +his mattress on the floor, the Ambassador sitting uneasily +on a chair before him. Though the language +used was considerably modified in filtering through<a name="page229" id="page229"></a><span class="left">[page 229]</span> +the brain of the interpreter, the increasing violence +of tone and gesture could not be concealed, and +were all but sufficiently comprehensible in themselves. +The Ambassador protested that if the +remainder of the demands were to be refused, he +was entitled to at least as much as the French +representative had had to shut his mouth last time +he came to Court, and affected overwhelming indignation +at the treatment he had received.</p> +<p> +"Besides," he added, "I have the promise of +His Majesty the Sultan himself that certain of them +should be paid in full, and I cannot abandon those. +I have informed my Government of the Sultan's +words."</p> +<p> +"Dost suppose that my master is a dog of a +Nazarene, that he should keep his word to thee? +Nothing thou may'st say can alter his decision. +The claims that have been allowed in writing shall +be paid by the Customs Administrators on thy +return to Tangier. Here are orders for the +money."</p> +<p> +"I absolutely refuse to accept a portion of what +my Government demands. I will either receive +the whole, or I will return empty-handed, and +report on the treacherous way in which I have +been treated. I am thoroughly sick of the procrastinating +and prevaricating ways of this country—a +disgrace to the age."</p> +<p> +"And we are infinitely more sick of thy behaviour +and thine abuse of the favours we have +granted thee. Our lord has expressly instructed +me to tell thee that in future no excess of the rights +guaranteed to foreigners by treaty will be permitted +on any account. Thy protection certificates to be<a name="page230" id="page230"></a><span class="left">[page 230]</span> +valid must be endorsed by our Foreign Commissioner, +and the nature of the goods thou importest +free of duty as for thyself shall be strictly examined, +as we have the right to do, that no more defrauding +of our revenue be permitted."</p> +<p> +"Your words are an insult to my nation," exclaimed +the Ambassador, rising, "and shall be duly +reported to my Government. I cannot sit here +and listen to vile impeachments like these; you +know them to be false!"</p> +<p> +"That is no affair of mine; I have delivered +the decision of our lord, and have no more to say. +The claims we refuse are all of them unjust, the +demands of usurers, on whom be the curse of God; +and demands for money which has never been +stolen, or has already been paid; every one of +them is a shameful fraud, God knows. Leeches +are only fit to be trodden on when they have done +their work; we want none of them."</p> +<p> +"Your language is disgraceful, such as was +never addressed to me in my life before; if I do +not receive an apology by noon to-morrow, I will +at once set out for Tangier, if not for Greece, and +warn you of the possible consequences."</p> + + <br /><hr class="short" /><br /> +<p> +The excitement in certain circles in Athens on +the receipt of the intelligence that the Embassy to +Morocco had failed, after all the flourish of trumpets +with which its presumed successes had been hailed, +was great indeed. One might have thought that +once more the brave Hellenes were thirsting for +the conquest of another Sicily, to read the columns +of the <i>Palingenesia</i>, some of the milder paragraphs +of which, translated, ran thus:—</p> + +<a name="page231" id="page231"></a><span class="left">[page 231]</span> + +<blockquote><p> +"A solemn duty has been imposed upon our nation by +the studied indignities heaped upon our representative at +the Court of Morocco. Greece has been challenged, +Europe defied, and the whole civilized world insulted. +The duty now before us is none other than to wipe from +the earth that nest of erstwhile pirates flattered by the +name of the Moorish Government....</p> +<p> +"As though it were insufficient to have refused the +just demands presented by Kyrios Mavrogordato for the +payment of business debts due to Greek merchants, and +for damages acknowledged to be due to others for property +stolen by lawless bandits, His Excellency has been +practically dismissed from the Court in a manner which +has disgraced our flag in the eyes of all Morocco.</p> +<p> +"Here are two counts which need no exaggeration. +Unless the payment of just business debts is duly enforced +by the Moorish Government, as it would be in any other +country, and unless the native agents of our merchants are +protected fully by the local authorities, it is hopeless to +think of maintaining commercial relations with such a +nation, so that insistence on these demands is of vital +necessity to our trade, and a duty to our growing manufactories.</p> +<p> +"The second count is of the simplest: such treatment +as has been meted out to our Minister Plenipotentiary in +Morocco, especially after the bland way in which he was +met at first with empty promises and smiles, is worthy +only of savages or of a people intent on war." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +The <i>Hellenike Salpinx</i> was hardly less vehement +in the language in which it chronicled the +course of events in Morocco:—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"Notwithstanding the unprecedented manner in which +the requests of His Excellency, Kyrios Dimitri Mavrogordato, +our Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary +at the Court of Morocco, were acceded to on the +recent Embassy to Mulai Abd er-Rahmán, the Moors have +shown their true colours at last by equally marked, but +less astonishing, insults.</p> + +<a name="page232" id="page232"></a><span class="left">[page 232]</span> +<p> +"The unrivalled diplomatic talents of our ambassador +proved, in fact, too much for the Moorish Government, +and though the discovery of the way in which a Nazarene +was obtaining his desires from the Sultan may have +aroused the inherent obstinacy of the wazeers, and thus +produced the recoil which we have described, it is far more +likely that this was brought about by the officious interference +of one or two other foreign representatives at +Tangier. It has been for some time notorious that the +Sardinian consul-general—who at the same time represents +Portugal—loses no opportunity of undermining +Grecian influence in Morocco, and in this certain of his +colleagues have undoubtedly not been far behind him.</p> +<p> +"Nevertheless, whatever causes may have been at work +in bringing about this crisis, it is one which cannot be +tided over, but which must be fairly faced. Greece has +but one course before her." +</p></blockquote> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page233" id="page233"></a><span class="left">[page 233]</span> + +<h3>XXVI</h3> + +<h2>PRISONERS AND CAPTIVES</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Misfortune is misfortune's heir."</p> +<p class="rindent"><i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Externally the gaol of Tangier does not differ +greatly in appearance from an ordinary Moorish +house, and even internally it is of the plan which +prevails throughout the native buildings from +fandaks to palaces. A door-way in a blank wall, +once whitewashed, gives access to a kind of lobby, +such as might precede the entrance to some +grandee's house, but instead of being neat and +clean, it is filthy and dank, and an unwholesome +odour pervades the air. On a low bench at the +far end lie a guard or two in dirty garments, fitting +ornaments for such a place. By them is the low-barred +entrance to the prison, with a hole in the +centre the size of such a face as often fills it, wan +and hopeless. A clanking of chains, a confused din +of voices, and an occasional moan are borne through +the opening on the stench-laden atmosphere. "All +hope abandon, ye who enter here!" could never have +been written on portal more appropriate than this, +unless he who entered had friends and money. Here +are forgotten good and bad, the tried and the untried, +just and unjust together, sunk in a night of +blank despair, a living grave.</p> + +<a name="page234" id="page234"></a><span class="left">[page 234]</span> +<p> +Around an open courtyard, protected by an iron +grating at the top, is a row of dirty columns, and +behind them a kind of arcade, on to which open a +number of doorless chambers. Filth is apparent +everywhere, and to the stifling odour of that unwashed +horde is added that caused by insanitary +drainage. To some of the pillars are chained poor +wretches little more than skeletons, while a cable of +considerable length secures others. It is locked +at one end to a staple outside the door under which +it passes, and is threaded through rings on the iron +collars of half a dozen prisoners who have been +brought in as rebels from a distant province. For +thirteen days they have tramped thus, carrying that +chain, holding it up by their hands to save their +shoulders, and two empty rings still threaded on +show that when they started they numbered eight. +Since the end rings are riveted to the chain, it has +been impossible to remove them, so when two fell +sick by the way the drivers cut off their heads to +effect the release of their bodies, and to prove, by +presenting those ghastly trophies at their journey's +end, that none had escaped.</p> +<p> +Many of the prisoners are busy about the floor, +where they squat in groups, plaiting baskets and +satchels of palmetto leaves, while many appear too +weak and disheartened even to earn a subsistence +in this way. One poor fellow, who has been a +courier, was employed one day twenty-five years +since to carry a despatch to Court, complaining of +the misdeeds of a governor. That official himself +intercepted the letter, and promptly despatched +the bearer to Tangier as a Sultan's prisoner. He +then arrested the writer of the letter, who, on paying<a name="page235" id="page235"></a><span class="left">[page 235]</span> +a heavy fine, regained his liberty, but the courier +remained unasked for. In course of time the kaïd +was called to his account, and his son, who succeeded +him in office, having died too, a stranger +ruled in their stead. The forgotten courier had by +this time lost his reason, fancying himself once more +in his goat-hair tent on the southern plains, and +with unconscious irony he still gives every new +arrival the Arab greeting, "Welcome to thee, a +thousand welcomes! Make thyself at home and +comfortable. All before thee is thine, and what +thou seest not, be sure we don't possess."</p> +<p> +Some few, in better garments, hold themselves +aloof from the others, and converse together with all +the nonchalance of gossip in the streets, for they are +well-to-do, arrested on some trivial charge which a +few dollars apiece will soon dispose of, but they are +exceptions. A quieter group occupies one corner, +members of a party of no less than sixty-two +brought in together from Fez, on claims made +against them by a European Power. A sympathetic +inquiry soon elicits their histories.<a name="XXVI1r" id="XXVI1r"></a><a href="#XXVI1"><sup>*</sup></a> The +first man to speak is hoary and bent with years; he +was arrested several years ago, on the death of a +brother who had owed some $50 to a European. +The second had borrowed $900 in exchange for a +bond for twice that amount; he had paid off half of +this, and having been unable to do more, had been +arrested eighteen months before. The third had +similarly received $80 for a promise to pay $160; +he had been in prison five years and three months.<a name="page236" id="page236"></a><span class="left">[page 236]</span> +Another had borrowed $100, and knew not the sum +which stood yet against him. Another had been in +prison five years for a debt alleged to have been +contracted by an uncle long dead. Another had +borrowed $50 on a bond for $100. Another had +languished eighteen months in gaol on a claim for +$120; the amount originally advanced to him was +about $30, but the acknowledgment was for $60, +which had been renewed for $120 on its falling due +and being dishonoured. Another had borrowed $15 +on agreeing to refund $30, which was afterwards +increased to $60 and then to $105. He has been +imprisoned three years. The debt of another, +originally $16 for a loan of half that amount, has +since been doubled twice, and now stands at $64, +less $17 paid on account, while for forty-two +measures of wheat delivered on account he can get +no allowance, though that was three years ago, and +four months afterwards he was sent to prison. +Another had paid off the $50 he owed for an +advance of $25, but on some claim for expenses the +creditor had withheld the bond, and is now suing +for the whole amount again. He has been in +prison two years and six months. Another has paid +twenty measures of barley on account of a bond for +$100, for which he has received $50, and he was +imprisoned at the same time as the last speaker, his +debt being due to the same man. Another had +borrowed $90 on the usual terms, and has paid the +whole in cash or wheat, but cannot get back the +bond. He has previously been imprisoned for a +year, but two years after his release he was re-arrested, +fourteen months ago. Another has been two +months in gaol on a claim for $25 for a loan of $12.<a name="page237" id="page237"></a><span class="left">[page 237]</span> +The last one has a bitter tale to tell, if any could +be worse than the wearisome similarity of those who +have preceded him.</p> +<p> +"Some years ago," he says, "I and my two +brothers, Drees and Ali, borrowed $200 from a +Jew of Mequinez, for which we gave him a notarial +bond for $400. We paid him a small sum on +account every month, as we could get it—a few +dollars at a time—besides presents of butter, fowls, +and eggs. At the end of the first year he threatened +to imprison us, and made us change the bond for +one for $800, and year by year he raised the debt +this way till it reached $3000, even after allowing +for what we had paid off. I saw no hope of ever +meeting his claim, so I ran away, and my brother +Drees was imprisoned for six years. He died last +winter, leaving a wife and three children, the +youngest, a daughter, being born a few months +after her father was taken away. He never saw +her. By strenuous efforts our family paid off the +$3000, selling all their land, and borrowing small +sums. But the Jew would not give up the bond. +He died about two years ago, and we do not know +who is claiming now, but we are told that the sum +demanded is $560. We have nothing now left to +sell, and, being in prison, we cannot work. When +my brother Drees died, I and my brother Ali were +seized to take his place. My kaïd was very sorry +for me, and became surety that I would not escape, +so that my irons were removed; but my brother +remains still in fetters, as poor Drees did all through +the six years. We have no hope of our friends +raising any money, so we must wait for death to +release us."</p> + +<a name="page238" id="page238"></a><span class="left">[page 238]</span> +<p> +Here he covers his face with his hands, and +several of his companions, in spite of their own dire +troubles, have to draw their shrivelled arms across +their eyes, as silence falls upon the group.</p> +<p> +As we turn away heartsick a more horrible +sight than any confronts us before the lieutenant-governor's +court. A man is suspended by the arms +and legs, face downwards, by a party of police, who +grasp his writhing limbs. With leather thongs a +stalwart policeman on either side is striking his +bare back in turn. Already blood is flowing freely, +but the victim does not shriek. He only winces +and groans, or gives an almost involuntary cry as +the cruel blows fall on some previously harrowed +spot. He is already unable to move his limbs, but +the blows fall thick and fast. Will they never cease?</p> +<p> +By the side stands a young European counting +them one by one, and when the strikers slow down +from exhaustion he orders them to stop, that others +may relieve them. The victim is by this time +swooning, so the European directs that he shall be +put on the ground and deluged with water till he +revives. When sufficiently restored the count +begins again. Presently the European stays them +a second time; the man is once again insensible, +yet he has only received six hundred lashes of the +thousand which have been ordered.</p> +<p> +"Well," he exclaims, "it's no use going on with +him to-day. Put him in the gaol now, and I'll +come and see him have the rest to-morrow."</p> +<p> +"God bless thee, but surely he has had enough!" +exclaims the lieutenant-governor, in sympathetic +tones.</p> +<p> +"Enough? He deserves double! The consul<a name="page239" id="page239"></a><span class="left">[page 239]</span> +has only ordered a thousand, and I am here to see +that he has every one. We'll teach these villains +to rob our houses!"</p> +<p> +"There is neither force nor power save in +God, the High, the Mighty! As thou sayest; it is +written," and the powerless official turns away disgusted. +"God burn these Nazarenes, their wives +and families, and all their ancestors! They were +never fit for aught but hell!" he may be heard +muttering as he enters his house, and well may he +feel as he does.</p> +<p> +The policemen carry the victim off to the gaol +hard by, depositing him on the ground, after once +more restoring him with cold water.</p> +<p> +"God burn their fathers and their grandfathers, +and the whole cursed race of them!" they murmur, +for their thoughts still run upon the consul and the +clerk.</p> +<p> +Leaving him sorrowfully, they return to the +yard, where we still wait to obtain some information +as to the cause of such treatment.</p> +<p> +"Why, that dog of a Nazarene, the Greek +consul, says that his house was robbed a month +ago, though we don't believe him, for it wasn't +worth it. The sinner says that a thousand dollars +were stolen, and he has sent in a claim for it to the +Sultan. The minister's now at court for the money, +the Satan! God rid our country of them all!"</p> +<p> +"But how does this poor fellow come in for it?"</p> +<p> +"He! He never touched the money! Only +he had some quarrel with the clerk, so they accused +him of the theft, as he was the native living nearest +to the house, just over the fence. He's nothing +but a poor donkey-man, and an honest one at that.<a name="page240" id="page240"></a><span class="left">[page 240]</span> +The consul sent his clerk up here to say he was +the thief, and that he must receive a thousand +lashes. The governor refused till the man should +be tried and convicted, but the Greek wouldn't hear +of it, and said that if he wasn't punished at once he +would send a courier to his minister at Marrákesh, +and have a complaint made to the Sultan. The +governor knew that if he escaped it would most +likely cost him his post to fight the consul, so he +gave instructions for the order to be carried out, +and went indoors so as not to be present."</p> +<p> +"God is supreme!" ejaculates a bystander.</p> +<p> +"But these infidels of Nazarenes know nothing +of Him. His curse be on them!" answers the +policeman. "They made us ride the poor man +round the town on a bare-backed donkey, with his +face to the tail, and all the way two of us had to +thrash him, crying, 'Thus shall be done to the man +who robs a consul!' He was ready to faint before +we got him up here. God knows <i>we</i> don't want to +lash him again!"</p> + +<br /><hr class="short" /><br /> +<p> +Next day as we pass the gaol we stop to inquire +after the prisoner, but the poor fellow is still too +weak to receive the balance due, and so it is for +several days. Then they tell us that he has been +freed from them by God, who has summoned his +spirit, though meanwhile the kindly attentions of a +doctor have been secured, and everything possible +under the circumstances has been done to relieve +his sufferings. After all, he was "only a Moor!"</p> + +<br /><hr class="short" /><br /> + +<a name="page241" id="page241"></a><span class="left">[page 241]</span> +<p> +The Greek consul reported that the condition +of the Moorish prisons was a disgrace to the age, +and that he had himself known prisoners who had +succumbed to their evil state after receiving a few +strokes from the lash.</p> +<p> +A statement of claim for a thousand dollars, +alleged to have been robbed from his house, was +forwarded by courier to his chief, then at Court, +and was promptly added to the demands that it +was part of His Excellency's errand to enforce.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXVI1" id="XXVI1"></a> +<a href="#XXVI1r">*</a> All these statements were taken down from the lips of the victims +at the prison door, and most, if not all of them, were supported by +documentary evidence.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page242" id="page242"></a><span class="left">[page 242]</span> + + +<h3>XXVII</h3> + +<h2>THE PROTECTION SYSTEM</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"My heart burns, but my lips will not give utterance."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + + + +<h4>I. <span class="sc">The Need</span></h4> +<p> +Crouched at the foreigner's feet lay what appeared +but a bundle of rags, in reality a suppliant Moor, +once a man of wealth and position. Hugging a pot +of butter brought as an offering, clutching convulsively +at the leg of the chair, his furrowed face +bespoke past suffering and present earnestness.</p> +<p> +"God bless thee, Bashador, and all the Christians, +and give me grace in thy sight!"</p> +<p> +"Oh, indeed, so you like the Christians?"</p> +<p> +"Yes, Bashador, I must love the Christians; +they have justice, we have none. I wish they had +rule over the country."</p> +<p> +"Then you are not a good Muslim!"</p> +<p> +"Oh yes, I am, I am a háj (pilgrim to Mekka), +and I love my own religion, certainly I do, but none +of our officials follow our religion nowadays: they +have no religion. They forget God and worship +money; their delight is in plunder and oppression."</p> +<p> +"You appear to have known better days. What +is your trouble?"</p> +<p> +"Trouble enough," replies the Moor, with a<a name="page243" id="page243"></a><span class="left">[page 243]</span> +sigh. "I am Hamed Zirári. I was rich once, and +powerful in my tribe, but now I have only this +sheep and two goats. I and my wife live alone +with our children in a nuállah (hut), but after all we +are happier now when they leave us alone, than +when we were rich. I have plenty of land left, it +is true, but we dare not for our lives cultivate more +than a small patch around our nuállah, lest we +should be pounced upon again."</p> + +<br /><a name="homestead" id="homestead"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/242.jpg"><img src="images/242-500.jpg" width="500" height="306" alt="A CENTRAL MOROCCO HOMESTEAD (NUÁLLAS)." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A CENTRAL MOROCCO HOMESTEAD (NUÁLLAS).</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +"How did you lose your property?"</p> +<p> +"I will tell you, Bashador, and then you will +see whether I am justified in speaking of our +Government as I do. It is a sad story, but I will +tell you all.<a name="XXVII1r" id="XXVII1r"></a><a href="#XXVII1"><sup>*</sup></a> A few years ago I possessed more +than six hundred cows and bullocks, more than +twelve hundred sheep, a hundred good camels, +fifty mules, twenty horses, and twenty-four mares. +I had also four wives and many slaves. I had +plenty of guns and abundance of grain in my +stores; in fact, I was rich and powerful among my +people, by whom I was held in great honour; but +alas! alas! our new kaïd is worse than the old +one; he is insatiable, a pit without a bottom! +There is no possibility of satisfying his greed!</p> +<p> +"I felt that although by continually making him +valuable presents I succeeded in keeping on friendly +terms with him, he was always coveting my wealth. +We have in our district two markets a week, and at +last I had to present him with from $50 to $80 +every market-day. I was nevertheless in constant +dread of his eyes—they are such greedy eyes—and +I saw that it would be necessary to look out for<a name="page244" id="page244"></a><span class="left">[page 244]</span> +protection. I was too loyal a subject of the Sultan +then, and too good a Muslim, to think of Nazarene +protection, so I applied for help to Si Mohammed +boo Aálam, commander-in-chief of our lord (whom +may God send victorious), and to enter the Sultan's +service.</p> +<p> +"We prepared a grand present with which to +approach him, and when it was ready I started with +it, accompanied by two of my cousins. We took +four splendid horses, four mares with their foals, +four she-camels with their young, four picked cows, +two pairs of our best bullocks, four fine young male +slaves, each with a silver-mounted gun, and four +well-dressed female slaves, each carrying a new +bucket in her hand, many jars containing fresh and +salted butter and honey, beside other things, and a +thousand dollars in cash. It was a fine present, +was it not, Bashador?</p> +<p> +"Well, on arrival at Si Mohammed's place, we +slaughtered two bullocks at his door, and humbly +begged his gracious acceptance of our offering, +which we told him we regretted was not greater, +but that as we were his brethren, we trusted to find +favour in his sight. We said we wished to honour +him, and to become his fortunate slaves, whose chief +delight it would be to do his bidding. We reminded +him that although he was so rich and powerful he +was still our brother, and that we desired nothing +better than to live in continual friendship with him.</p> +<p> +"He received and feasted us very kindly, and +gave us appointments as mounted guards to the +marshal of the Sultan, as which we served happily +for seven months. We were already thinking about +sending for some of our family to come and relieve<a name="page245" id="page245"></a><span class="left">[page 245]</span> +us, that we might return home ourselves, when one +day Si Mohammed sent for us to say that he was +going away for a time, having received commands +from the Sultan to visit a distant tribe with the +effects of Royal displeasure. After mutual compliments +and blessings he set off with his soldiers.</p> +<p> +"Five days later a party of soldiers came to our +house. To our utter astonishment and dismay, +without a word of explanation, they put chains on +our necks and wrists, and placing us on mules, +bore us away. Remonstrance and resistance were +equally vain. We were in Mequinez. It was +already night, and though the gates were shut, and +are never opened again except in obedience to high +authority, they were silently opened for us to pass +through. Once outside, our eyes were bandaged, +and we were lashed to our uncomfortable seats. +Thus we travelled on as rapidly as possible, in +silence all night long. It was a long night, that, +indeed, Bashador, a weary night, but we felt sure +some worse fate awaited us; what, we could not +imagine, for we had committed no crime. Finally, +after three days we halted, and the bandages were +removed from our eyes. We found ourselves in a +market-place in Rahámna, within the jurisdiction of +our cursëd kaïd. All around us were our flocks and +herds, camels, and horses, all our movable property, +which we soon learnt had been brought there +for public sale. A great gathering was there to +purchase.</p> +<p> +"The kaïd was there, and when he saw us he +exclaimed, 'There you are, are you? You can't +escape from me now, you children of dogs!' Then +he turned to a brutal policeman, crying, 'Put the<a name="page246" id="page246"></a><span class="left">[page 246]</span> +bastards on the ground, and give them a thousand +lashes.' Those words ring in my ears still. I felt +as in a dream. I was too utterly in his power to +think of answering, and after a very few strokes the +power of doing so was taken from me, for I lost +consciousness. How many blows we received I +know not, but we must have been very nearly +killed. When I revived we were in a filthy matmorah, +where we existed for seven months in +misery, being kept alive on a scanty supply of +barley loaves and water. At last I pretended to +have lost my reason, as I should have done in truth +had I stayed there much longer. When they told +the kaïd this, he gave permission for me to be let +out. I found my wife and children still living, +thank God, though they had had very hard times. +What has become of my cousins I do not know, +and do not dare to ask, but thou couldst, O Bashador, +if once I were under thy protection.</p> +<p> +"All I know is that, after receiving our present, +Si Mohammed sold us to the kaïd for twelve +hundred dollars. He was a fool, Bashador, a great +fool; had he demanded of us we would have given +him twelve hundred dollars to save ourselves what +we have had to suffer.</p> +<p> +"Wonderest thou still, O Bashador, that I prefer +the Nazarenes, and wish there were more of them +in the country? I respect the dust off their shoes +more than a whole nation of miscalled Muslims who +could treat me as I have been treated; but God is +just, and 'there is neither force nor power save in +God,' yes, 'all is written.' He gives to men according +to their hearts. We had bad hearts, and he +gave us a Government like them."</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXVII1" id="XXVII1"></a> +<a href="#XXVII1r">*</a> This story is reproduced from notes taken of the man's narrative +by my father.—B. M.</p> +<br /> + +<a name="page247" id="page247"></a><span class="left">[page 247]</span> + + +<h4>II. THE SEARCH</h4> +<p> +The day was already far spent when at last Abd +Allah led his animal into one of the caravansarais +outside the gate of Mazagan, so, after saying his +evening prayers and eating his evening meal, he +lay down to rest on a heap of straw in one of the +little rooms of the fandak, undisturbed either by +anxious dreams, or by the multitude of lively +creatures about him.</p> +<p> +Ere the sun had risen the voice of the muédhdhin +awoke him with the call to early prayer. Shrill and +clear the notes rang out on the calm morning air in +that perfect silence—</p> +<p> +"G-o-d is gr-ea—t! G-o-d is gr-ea—t! G-o-d +is grea—t! I witness that there is no God but +God, and Mohammed is the messenger of God. +Come to prayer! Come to prayer! Come to prayer! +Prayer is better than sleep! Come to prayer!"</p> +<p> +Quickly rising, Abd Allah repaired to the water-tap, +and seating himself on the stone seat before it, +rapidly performed the prescribed religious ablutions, +this member three times, then the other as often, +and so on, all in order, right first, left to follow as +less honourable, finishing up with the pious ejaculation, +"God greatest!" Thence to the mosque +was but a step, and in a few minutes he stood barefooted +in those dimly-lighted, vaulted aisles, in which +the glimmering oil lamps and the early streaks of +daylight struggled for the mastery. His shoes +were on the ground before him at the foot of the +pillar behind which he had placed himself, and his +hands were raised before his face in the attitude of +prayer. Then, at the long-drawn cry of the leader,<a name="page248" id="page248"></a><span class="left">[page 248]</span> +in company with his fellow-worshippers, he bowed +himself, and again with them rose once more, in +a moment to kneel down and bow his forehead to +the earth in humble adoration.</p> +<p> +Having performed the usual series of prayers, +he was ready for coffee and bread. This he took +at the door of the fandak, seated on the ground by +the coffee-stall, inquiring meanwhile the prospects +of protection in Mazagan.</p> +<p> +There was Tájir<a name="XXVII2r" id="XXVII2r"></a><a href="#XXVII2"><sup>*</sup></a> Pépé, always ready to appoint +a new agent for a consideration, but then he bore +almost as bad a name for tyrannizing over his +<i>protégés</i> as did the kaïds themselves. There was +Tájir Yûsef the Jew, but then he asked such tremendous +prices, because he was a vice-consul. There +was Tájir Juan, but then he was not on good enough +terms with his consul to protect efficiently those +whom he appointed, so he could not be thought of +either. But there was Tájir Vecchio, a new man +from Gibraltar, fast friends with his minister, +and who must therefore be strong, yet a man +who did not name too high a figure. To him, +therefore, Abd Allah determined to apply, and +when his store was opened presented himself.</p> +<p> +Under his cloak he carried three pots of butter +in one hand, and as many of honey in the other, +while a ragged urchin tramped behind with half a +dozen fowls tied in a bunch by the legs, and a +basket of eggs. The first thing was to get a word +with the head-man at the store; so, slipping a few +of the eggs into his hands, Abd Allah requested +an interview with the Tájir, with whom he had +come to make friends. This being promised, he<a name="page249" id="page249"></a><span class="left">[page 249]</span> +squatted on his heels by the door, where he was +left to wait an hour or two, remarking to himself at +intervals that God was great, till summoned by one +of the servants to enter.</p> +<p> +The merchant was seated behind his desk, and +Abd Allah, having deposited his burden on the +floor, was making round the table to throw himself +at his feet, when he was stopped and allowed but +to kiss his hand.</p> +<p> +"Well, what dost thou want?"</p> +<p> +"I have come to make friends, O Merchant."</p> +<p> +"Who art thou?"</p> +<p> +"I am Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih, O +Merchant, of Aïn Haloo in Rahámna. I have a +family there, and cattle, and very much land. I +wish to place all in thy hands, and to become thy +friend," again endeavouring to throw himself at the +feet of the European.</p> +<p> +"All right, all right, that will do. I will see +about it; come to me again to-morrow."</p> +<p> +"May God bless thee, O Merchant, and fill +thee with prosperity, and may He prolong thy +days in peace!"</p> +<p> +As Tájir Vecchio went on with his writing, Abd +Allah made off with a hopeful heart to spend the +next twenty-four anxious hours in the fandak, while +his offerings were carried away to the private house +by a servant.</p> +<p> +Next morning saw him there again, when much +the same scene was repeated. This time, however, +they got to business.</p> +<p> +"How can I befriend you?" asked the European, +after yesterday's conversation had been practically +repeated.</p> + +<a name="page250" id="page250"></a><span class="left">[page 250]</span> +<p> +"Thou canst very greatly befriend me by +making me thy agent in Aïn Haloo. I will work +for thee, and bring thee of the produce of my land +as others do, if I may only enjoy thy protection. +May God have mercy on thee, O Merchant. I +take refuge with thee."</p> +<p> +"I can't be always appointing agents and protecting +people for nothing. What can you give +me?"</p> +<p> +"Whatever is just, O Merchant, but the Lord +knows that I am not rich, though He has bestowed +sufficient on me to live, praise be to Him."</p> +<p> +"Well, I should want two hundred dollars down, +and something when the certificate is renewed next +year, besides which you would of course report +yourself each quarter, and not come empty-handed. +Animals and corn I can do best with, but I don't +want any of your poultry."</p> +<p> +"God bless thee, Merchant, and make thee +prosperous, but two hundred dollars is a heavy sum +for me, and this last harvest has not been so +plentiful as the one before, as thou knowest. Grant +me this protection for one hundred and fifty dollars, +and I can manage it, but do not make it an +impossibility."</p> +<p> +"I can't go any lower: there are scores of +Moors who would give me that price. Do as you +like. Good morning."</p> +<p> +"Thou knowest, O Merchant, I could not give +more than I have offered," replied Abd Allah as +he rose and left the place.</p> +<p> +But as no one else could be found in the town +to protect him on better terms, he had at last to +return, and in exchange for the sum demanded<a name="page251" id="page251"></a><span class="left">[page 251]</span> +received a paper inscribed on one side in Arabic, +and on the other in English, as follows:—</p><br /> + + +<blockquote> +<p class="author"> +"<span class="sc">Vice-Consulate for Great Britain</span>, <br /> +"<span class="sc">Mazagan</span>, <i>Oct. 5, 1838</i>.</p> + + +<p> +"<i>This is to certify that Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb +es-Sálih, resident at Aïn Haloo in the province of +Rahámna, has been duly appointed agent of Edward +Vecchio, a British subject, residing in Mazagan: all +authorities will respect him according to existing +treaties, not molesting him without proper notice to +this Vice-Consulate.</i><a name="XXVII3r" id="XXVII3r"></a><a href="#XXVII3"><sup>†</sup></a> +</p><br /> + +<p class="author"> +"<i>Gratis</i> <img src="images/seal-50.jpg" width="50" height="49" alt="seal" border="0" /> [Signed] "JOHN SMITH. <br /><br /> +"<i>H.B.M.'s Vice-Consul, Mazagan.</i>"</p> +</blockquote><br /> + + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXVII2" id="XXVII2"></a> +<a href="#XXVII2r">*</a> "Merchant," used much as "Mr." is with us.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXVII3" id="XXVII3"></a> +<a href="#XXVII3r">†</a> A genuine "patent of protection," as prescribed by treaty, supposed +to be granted only to wholesale traders, whereas every beggar +can obtain "certificates of partnership." The native in question has +then only to appear before the notaries and state that he has in +his possession so much grain, or so many oxen or cattle, belonging to +a certain European, who takes them as his remuneration for presenting +the notarial document at his Legation, and obtaining the desired +certificate. Moreover, he receives half the produce of the property +thus made over to him. This is popularly known as "farming in +Morocco."</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page252" id="page252"></a><span class="left">[page 252]</span> + +<h3>XXVIII</h3> + +<h2>JUSTICE FOR THE JEW</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Sleep on anger, and thou wilt not rise repentant."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +The kaïd sat in his seat of office, or one might +rather say reclined, for Moorish officials have a +habit of lying in two ways at once when they are +supposed to be doing justice. Strictly speaking, his +position was a sort of halfway one, his back being +raised by a pile of cushions, with his right leg drawn +up before him, as he leant on his left elbow. His +judgement seat was a veritable wool-sack, or rather +mattress, placed across the left end of a long narrow +room, some eight feet by twenty, with a big door in +the centre of one side. The only other apertures in +the whitewashed but dirty walls were a number of +ventilating loop-holes, splayed on the inside, ten +feet out of the twelve above the floor. This was +of worn octagonal tiles, in parts covered with a +yellow rush mat in an advanced state of consumption. +Notwithstanding the fact that the ceiling was of +some dark colour, hard to be defined at its present +age, the audience-chamber was amply lighted from +the lofty horse-shoe archway of the entrance, for +sunshine is reflection in Morocco to a degree unknown +in northern climes.</p> +<p> +On the wall above the head of the kaïd hung a<a name="page253" id="page253"></a><span class="left">[page 253]</span> +couple of huge and antiquated horse-pistols, while +on a small round table at his feet, some six inches +high, lay a collection of cartridges and gunsmith's +tools. Behind him, on a rack, were half a dozen +long flint-lock muskets, and on the wall by his feet +a number of Moorish daggers and swords. In his +hand the governor fondled a European revolver, +poking out and replacing the charges occasionally, +just to show that it was loaded.</p> +<p> +His personal attire, though rich in quality, ill +became his gawky figure, and there was that about +his badly folded turban which bespoke the parvenu. +Like the muzzle of some wolf, his pock-marked +visage glowered on a couple of prostrated litigants +before him, as they fiercely strove to prove each +other wrong. Near his feet was squatted his private +secretary, and at the door stood policemen awaiting +instructions to imprison one or both of the contending +parties. The dispute was over the straying of +some cattle, a paltry claim for damages. The +plaintiff having presented the kaïd with a loaf of +sugar and a pound of candles, was in a fair way to +win his case, when a suggestive sign on the part of +the defendant, comprehended by the judge as a +promise of a greater bribe, somewhat upset his calculations, +for he was summarily fined a couple of +dollars, and ordered to pay another half dollar costs +for having allowed the gate of his garden to stand +open, thereby inviting his neighbour's cattle to enter. +Without a word he was carried off to gaol pending +payment, while the defendant settled with the judge +and left the court.</p> +<p> +Into the midst of this scene came another policeman, +gripping by the arm a poor Jewish seamstress<a name="page254" id="page254"></a><span class="left">[page 254]</span> +named Mesaôdah, who had had the temerity to use +insulting language to her captor when that functionary +was upbraiding her for not having completed some +garment when ordered, though he insisted on paying +only half-price, declaring that it was for the governor. +The Jewess had hardly spoken when she lay sprawling +on the ground from a blow which she dare not, +under any provocation, return, but her temper had +so far gained the mastery over her, that as she rose +she cursed her tormentor roundly. That was enough; +without more ado the man had laid his powerful +arm upon her, and was dragging her to his master's +presence, knowing how welcome any such case +would be, even though it was not one out of which +he might hope to make money.</p> +<p> +Reckless of the governor's well-known character, +Mesaôdah at once opened her mouth to complain +against Mahmood, pitching her voice in the terrible +key of her kind.</p> +<p> +"My Lord, may God bless thee and lengthen...."</p> +<p> +A fierce shake from her captor interrupted the +sentence, but did not keep her quiet, for immediately +she continued, in pleading tones, as best she could, +struggling the while to keep her mouth free from +the wretch's hand.</p> +<p> +"Protect me, I pray thee, from this cruel man; +he has struck me: yes, my Lord."</p> +<p> +"Strike her again if she doesn't stop that noise," +cried the kaïd, and as the man raised his hand to +threaten her she saw there was no hope, and her +legs giving way beneath her, she sank to the ground +in tears.</p> +<p> +"For God's sake, yes, my Lord, have mercy on +thine handmaid." It was pitiful to hear the altered<a name="page255" id="page255"></a><span class="left">[page 255]</span> +tones, and it needed the heart of a brute to reply as +did the governor, unmoved, by harshly asking what +she had been up to.</p> +<p> +"She's a thief, my Lord, a liar, like all her people; +God burn their religion; I gave her a waistcoat to +make a week ago, and I purposed it for a present +to thee, my Lord, but she has made away with the +stuff, and when I went for it she abused me, and, +by thy leave, thee also, my Lord; here she is to be +punished."</p> +<p> +"It's a lie, my Lord; the stuff is in my hut, and +the waistcoat's half done, but I knew I should never +get paid for it, so had to get some other work done +to keep my children from starving, for I am a widow. +Have mercy on me!"</p> +<p> +"God curse the liar! I have spoken the truth," +broke in the policeman.</p> +<p> +"Fetch a basket for her!" ordered the kaïd, and +in another moment a second attendant was assisting +Mahmood to force the struggling woman to sit in a +large and pliable basket of palmetto, the handles of +which were quickly lashed across her stomach. She +was then thrown shrieking on her back, her bare +legs lifted high, and tied to a short piece of pole +just in front of the ankles; one man seized each +end of this, a third awaiting the governor's orders +to strike the soles. In his hand he had a short-handled +lash made of twisted thongs from Tafilált, +well soaked in water. The efforts of the victim to +attack the men on either side becoming violent, a +delay was caused by having to tie her hands together, +her loud shrieks rending the air the while.</p> +<p> +"Give her a hundred," said the kaïd, beginning +to count as the blows descended, giving fresh edge<a name="page256" id="page256"></a><span class="left">[page 256]</span> +to the piercing yells, interspersed with piteous cries +for mercy, and ribbing the skin in long red lines, +which were soon lost in one raw mass of bleeding +flesh. As the arm of one wearied, another took his +place, and a bucket of cold water was thrown over +the victim's legs. At first her face had been ashy +pale, it was now livid from the blood descending to +it, as her legs grew white all but the soles, which +were already turning purple under the cruel lash. +Then merciful unconsciousness stepped in, and +silence supervened.</p> +<p> +"That will do," said the governor, having counted +eighty-nine. "Take her away; she'll know better +next time!" and he proceeded with the cases before +him, fining this one, imprisoning that, and bastinadoing +a third, with as little concern as an English +registrar would sign an order to pay a guinea fine. +Indeed, why should he do otherwise. This was his +regular morning's work. It was a month before +Mesaôdah could touch the ground with her feet, +and more than three before she could totter along +with two sticks. Her children were kept alive by +her neighbours till she could sit up and "stitch, +stitch, stitch," but there was no one to hear her +bitter complaint, and no one to dry her tears.</p> +<p> +One day his faithful henchman dragged before +the kaïd a Jewish broker, whose crime of having +bid against that functionary on the market, when +purchasing supplies for his master, had to be expiated +by a fine of twenty dollars, or a hundred +lashes. The misguided wretch chose the latter, +loving his coins too well; but after the first half-dozen +had descended on his naked soles, he cried +for mercy and agreed to pay.</p> + +<br /><a name="j-atlas" id="j-atlas"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/256.jpg"><img src="images/256-500.jpg" width="498" height="307" alt="JEWESSES OF THE ATLAS." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i><br /><br /> +<b>JEWESSES OF THE ATLAS.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + + +<a name="page257" id="page257"></a><span class="left">[page 257]</span> +<p> +Another day it was a more wealthy member of +the community who was summoned on a serious +charge. The kaïd produced a letter addressed to +the prisoner, which he said had been intercepted, +couched in the woefully corrupted Arabic of the +Moorish Jews, but in the cursive Hebrew character.</p> +<p> +"Canst read, O Moses?" asked the kaïd, in a +surly tone.</p> +<p> +"Certainly, yes, my Lord, may God protect thee, +when the writing is in the sacred script."</p> +<p> +"Read that aloud, then," handing him the +missive.</p> +<p> +Moses commenced by rapidly glancing his eye +down the page, and as he did so his face grew pale, +his hand shook, and he muttered something in the +Hebrew tongue as the kaïd sharply ordered him to +proceed.</p> +<p> +"My Lord, yes, my Lord; it is false, it is a fraud," +he stammered.</p> +<p> +"The Devil take thee, thou son of a dog; +read what is set before thee, and let us have none +of thy impudence. The gaol is handy."</p> +<p> +With a trembling voice Moses the usurer read +the letter, purporting to have been written by an +intimate friend in Mogador, and implying by its +contents that Moses had, when in that town some +years ago, embraced the faith of Islám, from which +he was therefore now a pervert, and consequently +under pain of death. He was already crouched +upon the ground, as is the custom before a great +man, but as he spelled out slowly the damnatory +words, he had to stretch forth his hands to keep +from falling over. He knew that there was nothing +to be gained by denial, by assurances that the letter<a name="page258" id="page258"></a><span class="left">[page 258]</span> +was a forgery; the kaïd's manner indicated plainly +enough that <i>he</i> meant to be satisfied with it, and +there was no appeal.</p> +<p> +"Moses," said the kaïd, in a mock confidential +tone, as he took back the letter, "thou'rt in my +power. All that thou hast is mine. With such +evidence against thee as this thy very head is in my +hands. If thou art wise, and wilt share thy fortune +with me, all shall go well; if not, thou knowest what +to expect. I am to-day in need of a hundred dollars. +Now go!"</p> +<p> +An hour had not elapsed before, with a heart +still heavier than the bag he carried, Moses crossed +the courtyard again, and deposited the sum required +in the hands of the kaïd, with fresh assurances of +his innocence, imploring the destruction of that fatal +document, which was readily promised, though with +no intention of complying with the request, notwithstanding +that to procure another as that had been +procured would cost but a trifle.</p> +<p> +These are only instances which could be multiplied +of how the Jews of Morocco suffer at the +hands of brutal officials. As metal which attracts +the electricity from a thunder-cloud, so they invariably +suffer first when a newly appointed, conscienceless +governor comes to rule.</p> +<p> +With all his faults the previous kaïd had recognized +how closely bound up with that of the +Moors under his jurisdiction was the welfare of +Jews similarly situated, so that, favoured by his +wise administration, their numbers and their wealth +had increased till, though in outward appearance +beggarly, they formed an important section of the +community. The new kaïd, however, saw in them<a name="page259" id="page259"></a><span class="left">[page 259]</span> +but a possible mine, a goose that laid golden eggs, +so, like the fool of the story, he set about destroying +it when the supply of eggs fell off, for there was of +necessity a limit to the repeated offerings which, on +one pretext or another, he extorted from these +luckless "tributaries," as they are described in +Moorish legal documents.</p> +<p> +When he found that ordinary means of persuasion +failed, he had resort to more drastic +measures. He could not imagine fresh feasts and +public occasions, auspicious or otherwise, on which to +collect "presents" from them, so he satisfied himself +by bringing specious charges against the more +wealthy Jews and fining them, as well as by encouraging +Moors to accuse them in various ways. +Many of the payments to the governor being in +small and mutilated coin, every Friday he sent to +the Jews what he had received during the week, +demanding a round sum in Spanish dollars, far +more than their fair value. Then when he had +forced upon them a considerable quantity of this +depreciated stuff, he would send a crier round +notifying the public that it was out of circulation +and no longer legal tender, moreover giving warning +that the "Jew's money" was not to be trusted, +as it was known that they had counterfeit coins in +their possession. It was then time to offer them half +price for it, which they had no option but to accept, +though some while later he would re-issue it at its +full value, and having permitted its circulation, would +force it upon them again.</p> +<p> +The repairs which it was found necessary to +effect in the kasbah, the equipment of troops, the +contributions to the expenses of the Sultan's<a name="page260" id="page260"></a><span class="left">[page 260]</span> +expeditions, or the payment of indemnities to foreign +nations, were constantly recurring pretexts for levying +fresh sums from the Jews as well as from +the Moors, and these were the legal ones. The +illegal were too harrowing for description. Young +children and old men were brutally thrashed and +then imprisoned till they or their friends paid heavy +ransoms, and even the women occasionally suffered +in this way. On Sabbaths and fast days orders +would be issued to the Jews, irrespective of age or +rank, to perform heavy work for the governor, +perhaps to drag some heavy load or block of stone. +Those who could buy themselves off were fortunate: +those who could not do so were harnessed and +driven like cattle under the lashes of yard-long +whips, being compelled when their work was done +to pay their taskmasters. Indeed, it was Egypt +over again, but there was no Moses. Men or +women found with shoes on were bastinadoed +and heavily fined, and on more than one occasion +the sons of the best-off Israelites were arrested in +school on the charge of having used disrespectful +language regarding the Sultan, and thrown into +prison chained head and feet, in such a manner that +it was impossible to stretch their bodies. Thus +they were left for days without food, all but dead, +in spite of the desire of their relatives to support +them, till ransoms of two hundred dollars apiece +could be raised to obtain their release, in some cases +three months after their incarceration.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page261" id="page261"></a><span class="left">[page 261]</span> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h3>XXIX</h3> + +<h2>CIVIL WAR IN MOROCCO</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Wound of speech is worse than wound of sword."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Spies were already afield when the sun rose this +morning, and while their return with the required +information was eagerly expected, those of Asni +who would be warriors took a hasty breakfast and +looked to their horses and guns.</p> +<p> +Directly intelligence as to the whereabouts of +the Aït Mîzán arrived, the cavalcade set forth, perforce +in Indian file, on account of the narrow single +track, but wherever it was possible those behind +pressed forward and passed their comrades in their +eagerness to reach the scene of action. No idea of +order or military display crossed their minds, and +but for the skirmishers who scoured the country +round as they advanced, it would have been easy +for a concealed foe to have picked them off one by +one. Nevertheless they made a gallant show in the +morning sun, which glinted on their ornamented +stirrups and their flint-locks, held like lances, with +the butts upon the pummels before them. The +varied colours of their trappings, though old and +worn, looked gay by the side of the red cloth-covered +saddles and the gun-cases of similar +material used by many as turbans. But for the<a name="page262" id="page262"></a><span class="left">[page 262]</span> +serious expression on the faces of the majority, and +the eager scanning of each knoll and shrub, the +party might have been intent on powder-play instead +of powder-business.</p> +<p> +For a mile or two no sign of human being was +seen, and the ride was already growing wearisome +when a sudden report on their right was followed +by the heavy fall of one of their number, his well-trained +horse standing still for him to re-mount, +though he would never more do so. Nothing but a +puff of smoke showed whence the shot had come, +some way up the face of a hill. The first impulse +was to make a charge in that direction, and to fire a +volley; but the experience of the leader reminded +him that if there were only one man there it would +not be worth while, and if there were more they +might fall into an ambush. So their file passed on +while the scouts rode towards the hill slope. A +few moments later one of these had his horse shot +under him, and then a volley was fired which took +little effect on the advancing horsemen, still too far +away for successful aim.</p> +<p> +They had been carefully skirting a wooded +patch which might give shelter to their foes, whom +they soon discovered to be lying in trenches behind +the first hill-crests. Unless they were dislodged, it +would be almost impossible to proceed, so, making a +rapid flank movement, the Asni party spurred their +horses and galloped round to gain the hills above +the hidden enemy. As they did so random shots +were discharged, and when they approached the +level of the trenches, they commenced a series of +rushes forward, till they came within range. In +doing so they followed zig-zag routes to baffle aim,<a name="page263" id="page263"></a><span class="left">[page 263]</span> +firing directly they made out the whereabouts of +their assailants, and beating a hasty retreat. What +success they were achieving they could not tell, but +their own losses were not heavy.</p> +<p> +Soon, as their firing increased, that from the +trenches which they were gradually approaching +grew less, and fresh shots from behind awoke them +to the fact that the enemy was making a rear +attack. By this time they were in great disorder, +scattered over a wide area; the majority had gained +the slight cover of the brushwood to their rear, and +a wide space separated them from the new arrivals, +who were performing towards them the same wild +rushes that they themselves had made towards the +trenches. They were therefore divided roughly +into two divisions, the footmen in the shelter of the +shrubs, the horsemen engaging the mounted enemy.</p> +<p> +Among the brushwood hardly was the figure +of friend or foe discernible, for all lay down +behind any available shelter, crawling from point to +point like so many caterpillars, but firing quickly +enough when an enemy was sighted. This style of +warfare has its advantages, for it greatly diminishes +losses on either side. For the horsemen, deprived +of such shelter, safety lay in rapid movements and +unexpected evolutions, each man acting for himself, +and keeping as far away from his comrades as +possible. So easily were captures made that it +almost seemed as if many preferred surrender and +safety to the chances of war, for they knew that +they were sure of honourable treatment on both +sides. The prisoners were not even bound, but +merely disarmed and marched to the rear, to be +conveyed at night in a peaceful manner to their<a name="page264" id="page264"></a><span class="left">[page 264]</span> +captors' tents and huts, there to be treated as guests +till peace should result in exchange.</p> +<p> +By this time the combatants were scattered over +a square mile or so, and though the horsemen of +Asni had driven the Aït Mîzán from the foremost +trenches by the bold rushes described, and their +footmen had engaged them, no further advantage +seemed likely to accrue, while they were terribly +harassed by those who still remained under cover. +The signal was therefore given for a preconcerted +retreat, which at once began. Loud shouts of an +expected victory now arose from the Aït Mîzán, +who were gradually drawn from their hiding-places +by their desire to secure nearer shots at the men +of Asni as they slowly descended the hill.</p> +<p> +At length the Aït Mîzán began to draw somewhat +to one side, as they discovered that they were +being led too far into the open, but this movement +was outwitted by the Asni horsemen, who +were now pouring down on the scene. The +wildest confusion supervened; many fell on every +hand. Victory was now assured to Asni, which the +enemy were quick to recognize, and as the sun was +by this time at blazing noon, and energy grew +slack on both sides, none was loth to call a conference. +This resulted in an agreement by the vanquished +to return the stolen cattle which had +formed the <i>casus belli</i>, for indeed they were no +longer able to protect them from their real owners. +As many more were forfeited by way of damages, +and messages were despatched to the women left in +charge to hand them over to a party of the victors. +Prisoners were meantime exchanged, while through +the medium of the local "holy man" a peace was<a name="page265" id="page265"></a><span class="left">[page 265]</span> +formally ratified, after which each party returned +to its dead, who were quickly consigned to their +shallow graves.</p> +<p> +Such of the Asni men as were not mourners, +now assembled in the open space of their village to +be feasted by their women as victors. Basins, some +two feet across, were placed on the ground filled +with steaming kesk'soo. Round each of these portions +sat cross-legged some eight or ten of the men, +and a metal bowl of water was handed from one to +the other to rinse the fingers of the right hand. +They sat upon rude blankets spread on mats, the +scene lit by Roman-like olive-oil lamps, and a few +French candles round the board of the sheïkh and +allied leaders.</p> +<p> +A striking picture, indeed, they presented, there +in the still night air, thousands of heaven-lights +gleaming from the dark blue vault above, outrivalling +the flicker of those simple earth-flames on +their lined and sun-burnt faces. The women who +waited on them, all of middle age, alone remained +erect, as they glided about on their bare feet, carrying +bowl and towel from man to man. From the +huts and the tents around came many strange +sounds of bird, beast, and baby, for the cocks were +already crowing, as it was growing late,<a name="XXIX1r" id="XXIX1r"></a><a href="#XXIX1"><sup>*</sup></a> while the +dogs bayed at the shadow of the cactus and the +weird shriek of the night-bird.</p> +<p> +"B'ism Illah!" exclaimed the host at each basin +("In the Name of God!")—as he would ask a blessing—when +he finished breaking bread for his circle, +and plunged his first sop in the gravy. "B'ism Illah!" +they all replied, and followed suit in a startlingly<a name="page266" id="page266"></a><span class="left">[page 266]</span> +sudden silence wherein naught but the stowing +away of food could be heard, till one of them burnt +his fingers by an injudiciously deep dive into the +centre after a toothsome morsel.</p> +<p> +In the midst of a sea of broth rose mountains +of steamed and buttered kesk'soo, in the craters +of which had been placed the contents of the +stew-pot, the disjointed bones of chickens with +onions and abundant broad beans. The gravy was +eaten daintily with sops of bread, conveyed to the +mouth in a masterly manner without spilling a drop, +while the kesk'soo was moulded in the palm of +the right hand into convenient sized balls and +shot into the mouth by the thumb. The meat +was divided with the thumb and fingers of the right +hand alone, since the left may touch no food.</p> +<p> +At last one by one sat back, his greasy hand +outstretched, and after taking a sip of cold water +from the common jug with his left, and licking his +right to prevent the waste of one precious grain, +each washed his hands, rinsed his mouth thrice, +polished his teeth with his right forefinger, and felt +ready to begin again, all agreeing that "he who is not +first at the powder, should not be last at the dish."</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXIX1" id="XXIX1"></a> +<a href="#XXIX1r">*</a> A way they have in Barbary.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> +<a name="page267" id="page267"></a><span class="left">[page 267]</span> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h3>XXX</h3> + +<h2>THE POLITICAL SITUATION</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"A guess of the informed is better than the assurance of the ignorant."</p> +<p class="center1"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Ever since the accession of the present Sultan, +Mulai Abd el Azîz IV., on his attaining the age +of twenty in 1900, Morocco has been more than +ever the focus of foreign designs, both public and +private, which have brought about a much more +disturbed condition than under his father, or even +under the subsequent Wazeer Regent. The manifest +friendlessness of the youth, his lack of training +for so important a part, and the venality of his +entourage, at once attracted birds of prey, and they +have worked their will.</p> +<p> +Since the death of El Hasan III., in 1894, the +administration had been controlled by the former +Lord High Chamberlain, or "Curtain" of the +shareefian throne, whose rule was severe, though +good, and it seemed doubtful whether he would +relinquish the reins of authority. The other +wazeers whom his former master had left in office +had been imprisoned on various charges, and he +stood supreme. He was, however, old and enfeebled +by illness, so when in 1900 his end came instead of +his resignation, few were surprised. What they +were not quite prepared for, however, was the<a name="page268" id="page268"></a><span class="left">[page 268]</span> +clearing of the board within a week or two by the +death of his two brothers and a cousin, whom he had +promoted to be respectively Commander-in-chief, +Chamberlain, and Master of the Ceremonies—all of +them, it was declared, by influenza. Another brother +had died but a short while before, and the commissioner +sent to Tangier to arrange matters with +the French was found dead in his room—from +asphyxia caused by burning charcoal. Thus was +the Cabinet dissolved, and the only remaining +member resigned. There then rose suddenly to +power a hitherto unheard of Arab of the South, El +Menébhi, who essayed too much in acting as Ambassador +to London while still Minister of War, and +returned to find his position undermined; he has +since emigrated to Egypt. It was freely asserted +that the depletion of the Moorish exchequer was +due to his peculation, resulting in his shipping a +large fortune to England in specie, with the assistance +of British officials who were supposed to have +received a handsome "consideration" in addition to +an enormous price paid for British protection. Thus, +amid a typically Moorish cloud, he left the scene. +From that time the Court has been the centre of kaleidoscopic +intrigues, which have seriously hampered +administration, but which were not in themselves +sufficient to disturb the country.</p> +<p> +What was of infinitely greater moment was the +eagerness with which the young ruler, urged by his +Circassian mother, sought advice and counsel from +Europe, and endeavoured to act up to it. One +disinterested and trusted friend at that juncture +would have meant the regeneration of the Empire, +provided that interference from outside were stayed.<a name="page269" id="page269"></a><span class="left">[page 269]</span> +But this was not to be. The few impartial individuals +who had access to the Sultan were outnumbered +by the horde of politicians, diplomats, +adventurers, and schemers who surrounded him, the +latter at least freely bribing wazeers to obtain their +ends. In spite of an unquestionable desire to do +what was best for his country, and to act upon the +good among the proffered advice, wild extravagance +resulted both in action and expenditure.</p> +<p> +Thus Mulai Abd el Azîz became the laughing-stock +of Europe, and the butt of his people's scorn. +His heart was with the foreigners—with dancing +women and photographers,—he had been seen in +trousers, even on a bicycle! What might he not +do next? A man so implicated with unbelievers +could hardly be a faithful Muslim, said the discontented. +No more efficacious text could have been +found to rouse fanaticism and create dissatisfaction +throughout his dominions. Black looks accompanied +the mention of his name, and it was +whispered that the Leader of the Faithful was +selling himself and his Empire, if not to the Devil, +at least to the Nazarenes, which was just as bad. +Any other country would have been ripe for rebellion, +as Europe supposed that Morocco was, but +scattered and conflicting interests defeated all +attempts to induce a general rising.</p> +<p> +One of the wisest measures of the new reign +was the attempt to reorganize finances in accordance +with English advice, by the systematic levy of +taxes hitherto imposed in the arbitrary fashion +described in Chapter II. This was hailed with +delight, and had it been maintained by a strong +Government, would have worked wonders in<a name="page270" id="page270"></a><span class="left">[page 270]</span> +restoring prosperity. But foreign <i>protégés</i> refused to +pay, and objections of all sorts were raised, till at +last the "terteeb," as it was called, became impossible +of collection without recourse to arms. +Fearing this, the money in hand to pay the tax +was expended on guns and cartridges, which the +increasing demand led foreigners to smuggle in by +the thousand.</p> +<p> +It is estimated that some millions of fire-arms—a +large proportion of them repeating rifles with a +large supply of ammunition—are now in the hands +of the people, while the Government has never been +worse supplied than at present. Ship-load after +ship-load has been landed on the coast in defiance +of all authority, and large consignments have been +introduced over the Algerian frontier, the state of +which has in consequence become more than ever +unsettled. In short, the benign intentions of Mulai +Abd el Azîz have been interpreted as weakness, +and once again the Nazarenes are accused—to +quote a recent remark of an Atlas scribe—of having +"spoiled the Sultan," and of being about to "spoil +the country."</p> +<p> +Active among the promoters of dissatisfaction +have been throughout the Idreesi Shareefs, representatives +of the original Muslim dynasty in +Morocco; venerated for their ancestry and adherence +to all that is retrogressive or bigoted, and on +principle opposed to the reigning dynasty. These +leaders of discontent find able allies in the Algerians +in Morocco, some of whom settled there years +ago because sharing their feelings and determined +not to submit to the French; but of whom others, +while expressing equal devotion to the old order,<a name="page271" id="page271"></a><span class="left">[page 271]</span> +can from personal experience recommend the advantages +of French administration, to which even +their exiled brethren or their descendants no longer +feel equal objection.</p> +<p> +The summary punishment inflicted a few years +ago on the murderer of an Englishman in the +streets of Fez was, like everything else, persistently +misinterpreted through the country. In the distant +provinces the story—as reported by natives therefrom—ran +that the Nazarene had been shot by a +saint while attempting to enter and desecrate the +sacred shrine of Mulai Idrees, and that by executing +him the Sultan showed himself an Unbeliever. +When British engineers were employed to survey +the route for a railway between Fez and Mequinez +this was reported as indicating an absolute sale of +the country, and the people were again stirred up, +though not to actual strife.</p> +<p> +Only in the semi-independent district of the +Ghaïáta Berbers between Fez and Táza, which had +never been entirely subjugated, did a flame break out. +A successful writer of amulets, hitherto unknown, +one Jelálli Zarhôni, who had acquired a great local +reputation, began to denounce the Sultan's behaviour +with religious fervour. Calling on the +neighbouring tribesmen to refuse allegiance to so +unworthy a monarch, he ultimately raised the +standard of revolt in the name of the Sultan's imprisoned +elder brother, M'hammed. Finally, the +rumour ran that this prince had escaped and joined +Jelálli, who, from his habitual prophet's mount, is +better known throughout the country as Boo +Hamára—"Father of the She-ass." According to +the official statement, Jelálli Zarhôni was originally<a name="page272" id="page272"></a><span class="left">[page 272]</span> +a policeman (makházni), whose bitterness and subsequent +sedition arose from ill-treatment then +received. Although exalted in newspaper reports +to the dignity of a "pretender," in Morocco he +is best known as the "Rogi" or "Common One."</p> +<p> +Fez clamoured to see M'hammed, that the story +might be disproved, and after much delay, during +which he was supposed to be conveyed from +Mequinez, a veiled and guarded rider arrived, +preceded by criers who proclaimed him to be the +Sultan's brother. But as no one could be sure if +this were the case or not, each party believed what +it wished, and Jelálli's hands were strengthened. +Boldly announcing the presence with him of Mulai +M'hammed, in his name he sought and obtained +the allegiance of tribe after tribe. Although the +Sultan effected a reconciliation with his presumed +brother—whose movements, however, still remain +restricted—serious men believe him to be in the +rebel camp, and few know the truth.</p> +<p> +At first success attended the rebellion, but it +never spread beyond the unsettled eastern provinces, +and after three years it ineffectually smoulders on, +the leader cooped up by the Sultan's forces near the +coast, though the Sultan is not strong enough to +stamp it out.</p> +<p> +By those whose knowledge of the country is +limited to newspaper news a much more serious +state of affairs is supposed to exist, a "pretender" +collecting his forces for a final coup, etc. Something +of truth there may be in this, but the situation +is grossly exaggerated. The local rising of a few +tribes in eastern Morocco never affected the rest +of the Empire, save by that feeling of unrest which,<a name="page273" id="page273"></a><span class="left">[page 273]</span> +in the absence of complete information, jumps at all +tales. Even the so-called "rout" of an "imperial +army" three years ago was only a stampede without +fighting, brought about by a clever ruse, and +there has never been a serious conflict throughout +the affair, though the "Rogi" is well supplied with +arms from Algeria, and his "forces" are led by a +Frenchman, M. Delbrel. Meanwhile comparative +order reigns in the disaffected district, though in the +north, usually the most peaceful portion of the +Empire, all is disturbed.</p> +<p> +There a leader has arisen, Raïsûli by name, who +obtained redress for the wrongs of tribes south of +Tangier, and his own appointment as their kaïd, by +the astute device of carrying off as hostages an +American and an Englishman, so that the pressure +certain to be brought to bear by their Governments +would compel the Sultan to grant his demands. +All turned out as he had hoped, and the condign +punishment which he deserves is yet far off, though +a local struggle continues between him and a small +imperial force, complicated by feuds between his +sometime supporters, who, however, fight half-heartedly, +for fear of killing relatives pressed into +service on the other side. Those who once looked +to Raïsûli as a champion have found his little finger +thicker than the Sultan's loins, and the country +round Tangier is ruined by taxation, so that every +one is discontented, and the district is unsafe, a +species of civil war raging.</p> +<p> +The full name of this redoubtable leader is +Mulai Ahmad bin Mohammed bin Abd Allah er-Raïsûli, +and he is a shareef of Beni Arôs, connected +therefore with the Wazzán shareefs; but his prestige<a name="page274" id="page274"></a><span class="left">[page 274]</span> +as such is low, both on account of his past career, +and because of his acceptance of a civil post. His +mother belonged to Anjera, near Tangier, where +he was born about thirty-six years ago at the village +of Zeenát, being well educated, as education goes in +Morocco, with the Beni M'sawah. But falling into +bad company, he first took to cattle-lifting, afterwards +turning highwayman, as which he was +eventually caught by the Abd es-Sadok family—various +members of which were kaïds from Ceuta +to Azîla—and consigned to prison in Mogador. +After three or four years his release was obtained +by Háj Torres, the Foreign Commissioner in Tangier, +but when he found that the Abd es-Sadoks +had sequestrated his property, he vowed not to cut +his hair till he had secured their disgrace. Hence, +with locks that many a woman might envy, he has +plotted and harassed till his present position has +been achieved. But as this is only a means to an +end, who can tell what that may be?</p> +<p> +Raïsûli is allowed on all hands to be a peculiarly +able and well-bred man, full of resource and determination. +Though his foes have succeeded in kidnapping +even his mother, it will certainly be a +miracle if he is taken alive. Should all fail him, he +is prepared to blow his brains out, or make use of a +small phial of poison always to hand. It is interesting +to remember that just such a character, Abd +Allah Ghaïlán, held a similar position in this district +when Tangier was occupied by the English, who +knew him as "Guyland," and paid him tribute. +The more recent imitation of Raïsûli's tactics by a +native free-booter of the Ceuta frontier, in arresting +two English officers as hostages wherewith to secure<a name="page275" id="page275"></a><span class="left">[page 275]</span> +the release of his brother and others from prison, +has proved equally successful, but as matters stand +at present, it is more than doubtful whether the +Moorish Government is in a position to bring either +of these offenders to book, and the outlook in the +north is decidedly stormy. It is, indeed, quite in +accordance with the traditions of Moorish history, +throughout which these periods of local disorganization +have been of constant recurrence without danger +to the State.</p> + +<br /><a name="kaid" id="kaid"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/275.jpg"><img src="images/275-500.jpg" width="500" height="309" alt="A MOORISH KAÏD AND ATTENDANTS." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> + + <i>Photograph by Dr. Rudduck.</i> THE KAÏD.<br /><br /> +<b>A MOORISH KAÏD AND ATTENDANTS.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +In the south things are quiet, though a spirit of +unrest pervades the people, especially since it has +been seen that the Sultan no longer either collects +the regular taxes or maintains the regular army. +There the immediate result of the failure to collect +the taxes for a year or two was that the people had +more to spend on cattle and other stock, which +rapidly rose in price, no one needing to sell unless +he wished. Within the last two years, however, +the kaïds have recommenced their oppressive treatment, +under the pretext of a levy to put down the +rising in the eastern provinces. Men and money +were several times furnished, but though now more +difficult to raise, the demands continue. The +wonder is that the people remain so quiet, but they +are of a more peaceable nature than the Berbers of +the north.</p> +<p> +Three of the Sultan's brothers have been for +some time camped in as many centres, engaged in +collecting funds, but tribe after tribe has refused to +pay, declaring that they have been exempted by +their lord, and until he returns they will submit to +no kaïd and pay no dues. It is only in certain +districts that some of the funds demanded have<a name="page276" id="page276"></a><span class="left">[page 276]</span> +been forthcoming, and the kaïds have full authority, +but these are officials of long standing and great +repute, whose jurisdiction has been much extended +in consequence. Changes among the less important +kaïds have been continual of late. One man +would buy the office and struggle to establish himself, +only to find a new man installed over his head +before he was settled, which has frequently led to +local disorders, fighting and plundering. In this +way the Government has quite lost prestige, and a +strong hand is awaited.</p> +<p> +The Moors would have preferred another +Ismáïl the Bloodthirsty, who could compel his will, +and awe all other rascals in his dominions, to the +mild and well-intentioned youth now at the helm. +Some would even welcome any change that would +put an end to present insecurity, but only the +French <i>protégés</i> desire to see that change effected +by France, and only those under the German flag +already would hail that with joy. The Jews alone +would welcome any, as they have good cause to do.</p> +<p> +Such was already the condition of things when +the long-threatening clouds burst, and the Anglo-French +Agreement was published in April, 1904. +Rumours of negotiations for the sale of British +interests in Morocco to France had for some time +filled the air, but in face of official denials, and the +great esteem in which England was held by the +Moors, few gave credence to them. Mulai Abd el +Azîz had relied especially on Great Britain, and +had confidently looked to it for protection against +the French; the announcement of the bargain +between them broke him down.</p> +<p> +It may have been inevitable; and since an<a name="page277" id="page277"></a><span class="left">[page 277]</span> +agreement among all the Powers concerned was so +remote a possibility, an understanding between the +three most interested may have been the wisest +course, in view of pending internal troubles which +would certainly afford excuses for interference. It +was undoubtedly good policy on their part to decide +who should inherit the vineyard, and on what terms, +that conflict between them might be avoided. But +on the unconsulted victim it came a cruel blow, +unexpected and indefensible. It is important not +to forget this.</p> +<p> +But the one absorbing thought of all for nearly +a year past has been the drought and consequent +famine. Between November, 1904, and October, +1905, there was practically no rainfall over a large +portion of the country, and agriculture being interfered +with, grain rose to five times its normal price. +Although relief has now come, it will be months +before the cattle are in proper condition again, and +not till after next year's harvest in May and June, +should it prove a good one, will contentment be +restored. Under such conditions, though more +ready than ever to grumble, the people have had +no heart to fight, which has, to some degree, assisted +in keeping them quiet. The famine has, however, +tried them sore, and only increased their exasperation.</p> +<p> +Added to this, the general feeling of dissatisfaction +regarding the Sultan's foreign predilections, and +the slumbering fanaticism of the "learned" class, +there is now a chronic lack of funds. The money +which should have been raised by taxation has been +borrowed abroad and ruthlessly scattered. Fortunes +have been made by foreigners and natives alike, +but the Sultan is all but bankrupt. Yet never was<a name="page278" id="page278"></a><span class="left">[page 278]</span> +his entourage so rich, though many who to-day hold +houses and lands were a few years ago penniless.</p> +<p> +As for the future, for many years the only +answer possible to tediously frequent inquiries as +to what was going to happen in Morocco has been +that the future of the Shareefian Empire depended +entirely on what might happen in Europe, not to +any degree on its own internal condition. The +only way in which this could affect the issue was +by affording an excuse for outside interference, as +in the present case.</p> +<p> +Corrupt as the native administration may be, it +is but the expression of a corrupt population, and +no native government, even in Europe, is ever far in +advance of those over whom it rules. In spite, too, +of the pressure of injustice on the individual here +and there, the victim of to-day becomes the oppressor +of to-morrow, and such opportunities are not to be +surrendered without a protest. The vast majority +is, therefore, always in favour of present conditions, +and would rather the chances of internecine strife +than an exotic peace. No foreign ruler, however +benign, would be welcome, and no "penetration," +however "pacific," but will be endured and resented +as a hostile wound. Even the announcement of +the Anglo-French Agreement was sufficient to +gravely accentuate the disorders of the country, +and threaten immediate complications with Europe, +by provoking attacks on Europeans who had +hitherto been safe from interference save under +exceptional circumstances. A good deal of the +present unrest is attributable to this cause alone.</p> +<p> +It is, therefore, a matter of deep regret that the +one possible remedy—joint action of the Powers in<a name="page279" id="page279"></a><span class="left">[page 279]</span> +policing the Moors, as it were, by demanding essential +reforms in return for a united guarantee of +territorial integrity—was rendered impossible by +the rivalries between those Powers, especially on +the part of France. Great Britain's step aside has +made possible the only alternative, the surrender +of the coveted task to one of their number, in +return for such <i>quid pro quo</i> as each could obtain. +Had the second-class Powers been bargained with +first, not only would they have secured substantial +terms, which now it is no use their asking, but the +leading Powers could have held out for terms yet +undreamed of.</p> +<p> +France did well to begin with Great Britain, +but it was an egregious diplomatic error to overlook +Germany, which was thereby promoted to +the hitherto unhoped-for position of "next friend" +and trusted adviser of Morocco. Up to that point +Germany had played a waiting game so patiently +that France fell into the trap, and gave her all she +wanted. It is inconceivable how the astute politicians +of the Quai d'Orsay committed such a blunder, save +on the assumption that they were so carried away +by the ease with which they had settled with Great +Britain, that they forgot all other precautions—unless +it was that they feared to jeopardize the conclusion +of the main bargain by delay in discussing +any subsidiary point.</p> +<p> +When the Agreement was made known, the +writer pointed out in the <i>Westminster Review</i>, +that, "Portugal, Italy and Austria have but to +acquiesce and rest assured of the 'most favoured +nation' treatment, as will all the other Powers save +one. That one, of course, is Germany, <i>whose sole</i><a name="page280" id="page280"></a><span class="left">[page 280]</span> +<i>interest in Morocco is the possibility of placing a drag +on France</i>. She will have to be dealt with. Having +disposed of England, which had real interests at +stake, in the command of the straits and the maintenance +of Gibraltar, France should be able to +accomplish this as well. Five and twenty years +ago Germany had not even a commercial interest +in Morocco. Great Britain did three-fourths of the +trade, or more, France about a tenth, Spain and +others dividing the crumbs between them. But an +active commercial policy—by the encouragement +and support of young firms in a way that made +Britishers envious, and abusive of their own Foreign +Office—has secured for Germany a growing share +of the trade, till now she stands next to Great +Britain, whose share is reduced to one-half."<a name="XXX1r" id="XXX1r"></a><a href="#XXX1"><sup>*</sup></a></p> +<p> +After all, the interests of Germany in Morocco<a name="page281" id="page281"></a><span class="left">[page 281]</span> +were but a trifling consideration, meaning much less +to her than ours do to us, and it was evident that +whatever position she might assume, however she +might bluster, she, too, had her price. This not +being perceived by the ill-informed Press of this +country, the prey of political journalists in Paris, +Cologne and Madrid—more recently even of Washington, +whence the delusive reports are now re-echoed +with alarming reverberations—there was +heated talk of war, and everything that newspapers +could do to bring it about was done. Even a +private visit of the Kaiser to Tangier, the only important +feature of which was the stir made about it, +was utilized to fan the flame. However theatrical +some of the political actions of Wilhelm II. may +have been, here was a case in which, directly he +perceived the capital being made of his visit, he +curtailed it to express his disapprobation. It was +in Tangier Bay that he received the newspaper +cuttings on the subject, and although the visit was +to have extended in any case but to a few hours, he +at once decided not to land. It was only when it +was urged upon him what disappointment this +would cause to its thirty thousand inhabitants and +visitors for the occasion, that he consented to pay +one short visit to his Legation, abandoning the +more important part of the programme, which included +a climb to the citadel and an interchange of +visits with a kinsman of the Sultan. Nothing more +could have been done to emphasize the private +nature of the visit, in reality of no greater moment +than that of King Edward to Algeria almost at the +same time.</p> +<p> +Neither such a personal visit, nor any other<a name="page282" id="page282"></a><span class="left">[page 282]</span> +action should have been required to remind Great +Britain and France that they and Spain alone were +affected by their agreements, and that not even +official notification to Morocco or the other Powers +could restrict their perfect liberty of action. When, +therefore, the distracted Sultan turned to Germany +as the most influential Power still faithful to its +undertakings, the response of Germany was perfectly +correct, as was his own action. But Germany, +although prepared to meet him with a smile, and +not averse to receiving crumbs in the form of +concessions, had no more intention of embroiling +herself on his behalf than Great Britain. Extraordinary +rumours, however, pervaded the country, +and the idea of German intervention was hailed with +delight; now general disappointment is felt, and +Germany is classed with England among the traitors.</p> +<p> +Mulai Abd el Azîz had but one resource, to +propose another conference of the Powers, assured +that France and Germany would never come to an +understanding, and that this would at least ward off +the fatal day indefinitely. Yet now that France +and Germany have agreed, it is probable that this +step is regretted, and that, since the two have acted +in concert, the Moorish Court has been at its wits' +ends; it would now regard as a God-send anything +which might prevent the conference from being +held, lest it should strengthen the accord among +its enemies, and weaken its own position.</p> +<p> +The diplomatic negotiations between Fez, Berlin, +and Paris have been of a character normal under the +circumstances; and as the bickerings and insinuations +which accompanied them were foreign to Morocco, +the Sultan's invitation only serving as an opportunity<a name="page283" id="page283"></a><span class="left">[page 283]</span> +for arriving at an understanding, they need not be +dwelt on here. It is the French Press which has +stirred up the commotion, and has misled the British +Public into the belief that there has been some +"Morocco Tangle." The facts are simply these: +since 1880, the date of the Madrid Convention +regarding the vexed question of foreign rights of +protecting natives and holding property in Morocco, +all nations concerned have been placed on an equal +footing in their dealings with that country. The +"most favoured nation" clause has secured for all +the advantages gained by any in its special treaties. +Nothing has since occurred to destroy this situation. +In asking his "friends" to meet again in conference +now, the Sultan acted wisely and within his +rights. The fact that any two or three of them +may have agreed to give one of their number a +"free hand," should it suit her purposes to upset +the <i>status quo</i>, does not theoretically affect the +position, though it has suggested the advisability +of further discussion. It is only in virtue of their +combined might that the Powers in question are +enabled to assume the position they do.</p> +<p> +Spain, the only power with interests in Morocco +other than commercial, had been settled with by a +subsequent agreement in October, 1904, for she had +been consulted in time. Special clauses dealing +with her claims to consideration had even been +inserted in the Anglo-French Agreement—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +Art. VII. "This arrangement does not apply to the +points now occupied by Spain on the Moorish shore of the +Mediterranean.</p> +<p> +Art. VIII. "The two Governments, animated by their +sincerely friendly sentiments for Spain, take into particular<a name="page284" id="page284"></a><span class="left">[page 284]</span> +consideration the interests she possesses, owing to her +geographical position and to her territorial possessions on the +Moorish shore of the Mediterranean, in regard to which +the French Government will make some arrangement with +the Spanish Government ... (which) will be communicated +to the Government of His Britannic Majesty." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +These Articles apply to Ceuta, which Spain +withheld from the Portuguese after the brief union +of the crowns in the sixteenth century; to Veléz, an +absolutely worthless rock, captured in 1564 by +Garcia de Toledo with fifteen thousand men, the +abandonment of which has more than once been +seriously urged in Spain; to Alhucemas, a small +island occupied in 1673; to Melilla, a huge rock +peninsula captured, on his own account, by Medina +Sidonia in 1497; and to the Zaffarine (or Saffron) +Islands, only one of which is used, in the seizure of +which the French were cleverly forestalled in 1848. +All are convict stations; unless heavily fortified in +a manner that at present they are not, they would +not be of sufficient value to tempt even a foe of +Spain. Ceuta and Melilla alone are worthy of +consideration, and the former is the only one it +might ever pay to fortify.</p> +<p> +So far have matters gone. The conference +asked for by Morocco—the flesh thrown to the +wolves—is to form the next Act. To this conference +the unfortunate Sultan would like to appeal +for protection against the now "free hand" of +France, but in consenting to discuss matters at all, +she and her ally have, of course, stipulated that +what has been done without reference to treaty +shall not be treated of, if they are to take part, and +as an act of courtesy to us, the United States has<a name="page285" id="page285"></a><span class="left">[page 285]</span> +followed suit. Other matters of importance which +Mulai Abd el Azîz desired to discuss have also +been ruled out beforehand, so that only minor +questions are to be dealt with, hardly worth the +trouble of meeting.</p> +<p> +Foremost among these is the replenishing of the +Moorish exchequer by further loans, which might +more easily have been arranged without a conference. +Indeed, there are so many money-lenders +anxious to finance Morocco on satisfactory terms, that +the competition among them has almost degenerated +into a scramble. But all want some direct guarantee +through their Governments, which introduces the +political element, as in return for such guarantee +each Power desires to increase its interests or privileges. +Thus, while each financier holds out his gold-bags +temptingly before the Sultan, elbowing aside +his rival, each demands as surety the endorsement +of his Government, the price of which the Sultan is +hardly prepared to pay. He probably hopes that +by appealing to them all in conference, he will +obtain a joint guarantee on less onerous terms, +without affording any one of them a foothold in +his country, should he be unable to discharge his +obligations. He is wise, and but for the difficulties +caused by the defection of England and France from +the political circle, this request for money might alone +have sufficed to introduce a reformed <i>régime</i> under the +joint auspices of all. As it is, attempts to raise funds +elsewhere, even to discharge the current interest, +having failed, his French creditors, who do possess +the support of their Government, have obligingly +added interest to capital, and with official sanction +continue to roll the snowball destined one day to<a name="page286" id="page286"></a><span class="left">[page 286]</span> +overwhelm the State. In the eyes of the Moors +this is nothing less than a bill-of-sale on the Empire.</p> +<p> +A second point named by the Sultan for +submission to the conference is the urgency of +submitting all inhabitants of the country without +distinction to the reformed taxation; a reasonable +demand if the taxes were reasonable and justly +assessed, but who can say at present that they +are either? The exchequer is undoubtedly defrauded +of large sums by the exemptions enjoyed +by foreigners and their <i>protégés</i>, on account of the +way in which these privileges are abused, while, +to begin with, the system itself is unfair to the +native. Here again is an excellent lever for securing +reforms by co-operation. Let the Sultan understand +that the sole condition on which such a privilege +can be abandoned is the reform of his whole fiscal +and judicial systems, and that this effected to the +satisfaction of the Powers, these privileges will be +abandoned. Nothing could do more to promote +the internal peace and welfare of Morocco than this +point rightly handled.</p> +<p> +A third demand, the abolition of foreign postal +services in his country, may appear to many curious +and insignificant, but the circumstances are peculiar. +Twenty years ago, when I first knew Morocco, there +were no means of transmitting correspondence up +country save by intermittent couriers despatched by +merchants, whom one had to hunt up at the <i>cafés</i> in +which they reposed. On arrival the bundle of letters +was carried round to likely recipients for them to +select their own in the most hap-hazard way. Things +were hardly more formal at the ports at which eagerly +awaited letters and papers arrived by sea. These<a name="page287" id="page287"></a><span class="left">[page 287]</span> +were carried free from Gibraltar, and delivered on +application at the various consular offices.</p> +<p> +At one time the Moorish Government maintained +unsatisfactory courier services between two or three +of the towns, but issued no stamps, the receipt for +the courier's payment being of the nature of a postmark, +stamped at the office, which, though little +known to collectors, is the only genuine and really +valuable Moorish postage stamp obtainable. All +other so-called Morocco stamps were issued by +private individuals, who later on ran couriers +between some two Moorish towns, their income +being chiefly derived from the sale of stamps to +collectors. Some were either entirely bogus services, +or only a few couriers were run to save appearances. +Stamps of all kinds were sold at face value, postmarked +or not to order, and as the issues were from +time to time changed, the profits were steady and +good. The case was in some ways analogous to +that of the Yangtse and other treaty ports of China, +where I found every consul's wife engaged in designing +local issues, sometimes of not inconsiderable +merit. In Morocco quite a circle of stamp-dealers +sprang up, mostly sharp Jewish lads—though not +a few foreign officials contracted the fever, and some +time ago a stamp journal began to be issued in +Tangier to promote the sale of issues which otherwise +would not have been heard of.</p> +<p> +Now all is changed; Great Britain, France, +Spain and Germany maintain head postal offices +in Tangier, the British being subject to that of +Gibraltar, whose stamps are used. All have courier +services down the coast, as well as despatching by +steamer, and some maintain inland mails conveyed<a name="page288" id="page288"></a><span class="left">[page 288]</span> +by runners. The distance from Tangier to Fez, +some hundred and fifty miles, is covered by one +man on foot in about three days and a half, and +the forty miles' run from Tangier to Tetuan is done +in a night for a dollar, now less than three shillings.</p> +<p> +But a more enlightened Sultan sees the advantage +it would be to him, if not to all parties, to +control the distribution of the growing correspondence +of both Europeans and natives, the +latter of whom prefer to register their letters, having +very little faith in their despatch without a receipt. +And as Mulai Abd el Azîz is willing to join the +Postal Union, provided that the service is placed +in efficient European hands there is no reason why +it should not be united in one office, and facilities +thereby increased.</p> +<p> +France, however, in joining the conference, has +quite another end in view than helping others to +bolster up the present administration, and that is to +obtain a formal recognition by all concerned, including +Morocco, of the new position created by her agreement +with Great Britain. That is to say, without +permitting her action to be questioned in any way, +she hopes to secure some show of right to what at +present she possesses only by the might of herself +and her friends. She has already agreed with +Germany to recognize her special claim for permission +to "police" the Morocco-Algerian frontier, +and those who recall the appropriation of Tunisia +will remember that it originated in "policing" the +Khomaïr—known to the French as "Kroumirs"—on +the Tunisian frontier of Algeria.</p> +<p> +It is, indeed, a curious spectacle, a group of +butchers around the unfortunate victim, talking<a name="page289" id="page289"></a><span class="left">[page 289]</span> +philanthropy, practising guile: two of the strongest +have at last agreed between themselves which is to +have the carcase, but preparations for the "pacific" +death-thrust are delayed by frantic appeals for +further consultation, and by the refusal of one of +their number who had been ignored to recognize +the bargain. Consultation is only agreed to on +conditions which must defeat its object, and terms +are arranged with the intervener. Everything, +therefore, is clear for the operation; the tender-hearted +are soothed by promises that though the +"penetration" cannot but be painful, it shall at least +not be hostile; while in order that the contumacious +may hereafter hold their peace, the consultation is +to result in a formal but carefully worded death-warrant.</p> +<p> +Meanwhile it is worth while recalling the essential +features of the Madrid Convention of 1880, mainly +due to French claims for special privileges in protecting +natives, or in giving them the rights of +French citizens. This was summoned by Spain at +the suggestion of Great Britain, with the concurrence +of Morocco. Holland, Sweden and Norway, +Denmark, Belgium, Portugal, France, Germany, the +United States, Italy, Brazil, and Austria-Hungary +accepted the invitation in the order named, but +Brazil was ultimately unrepresented. Russia was +also invited as an after-thought, but did not consider +it worth while accepting. The scope of the conference +was limited to the subject of foreign protection, +though the question of property was by +mutual consent included.</p> +<p> +The representatives of the conferring Powers +accredited to the Spanish Court were nominated as<a name="page290" id="page290"></a><span class="left">[page 290]</span> +members—the English Plenipotentiary acting for +Denmark—as it was felt that those accredited to +Morocco already held too decided views of the +matter. The Moorish Foreign Minister attended +on behalf of Morocco, and Señor Canovas, President +of the Council, represented Spain. Seventeen +meetings were held, under the presidency of Señor +Canovas, between May 19 and July 3, the last +being purely formal. The Convention then signed +contained little that was new, but it re-stated clearly +and harmonized with satisfactory results rights previously +granted to one and another. In several +particulars, however, its provisions are faulty, and +experience of their working has long led to demands +for revision, but conflicting interests, and fears of +opening up larger issues, have caused this to be +postponed.</p> +<p> +Now that the time has arrived for a re-definition +of the whole position and rights of foreigners and +their Governments in Morocco, it is earnestly to +be hoped that the opportunity may not be lost. +The great fault of the Madrid Convention is that +while it recognizes the right of foreigners to acquire +land in Morocco, it stipulates for the previous consent +of the native authorities, which is only to be +obtained, if at all, by liberal "presents." But the +most pressing need is the establishment of an international +tribunal for the trial of cases involving +more than one nationality, to replace the present +anarchy, resulting from the conflict in one case of +any of the thirteen independent jurisdictions at +present in force in Morocco. Such a measure +would be an outcome of more value than all possible +agreements to respect the independence and integrity<a name="page291" id="page291"></a><span class="left">[page 291]</span> +of Morocco till it suited the purpose of one party +or another to encroach thereon.</p> +<p> +In lands knowing but one jurisdiction it is hard +to conceive the abuses and defeats of justice which +result from the confusion reigning in Morocco, or +those which existed in Egypt previous to the +establishment of international tribunals there. For +instance, plaintiff, of nationality A., sues defendants, +of nationalities B., C., and D., for the return of goods +which they have forcibly carried off, on the ground +that they were pledged to them by a party of +nationality E., who disputes their claim, and declares +the goods sold to original plaintiff. Here are five +jurisdictions involved, each with a different set of +laws, so that during the three separate actions +necessitated, although the three defendants have all +acted alike and together, the judgment in the case +of each may be different, <i>e.g.</i> case under law B. dismissed, +that under law C. won by plaintiff, while +law D. might recognize the defendants' claim, but +condemn his action. Needless to follow such intricacies +further, though this is by no means an +extreme case, for disputes are constantly occurring—to +say nothing of criminal actions—involving the +several consular courts, for the most part presided +over by men unequipped by legal training, in which +it is a practical impossibility for justice to be done +to all, and time and money are needlessly wasted.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXX1" id="XXX1"></a> +<a href="#XXX1r">*</a> It is curious, indeed, how little the German Empire or its component +States figure in the history of diplomatic relations with +Morocco. One has to go back to the time of Rudolf II., in 1604, to +find an active policy in force with regard to Moroccan affairs, when +that remarkable adventurer or international diplomatist, Sir Anthony +Sherley, was accredited to Abd el Azîz III., the last of the Moorish +rulers to bear the same name as the present one. This intrepid +soldier, a man after the Kaiser's own heart, had been accredited to +Germany by the great Shah of Persia, Abbás, whose confidence he +had won to a marvellous degree, and he appears to have made as +great an impression on Rudolf, who sent him as his envoy to Morocco. +Arrived there, he astonished the natives by coolly riding into the court +of audience—a privilege still reserved to the Sultan alone. But the +Ameer, as he was called in those days, was too politic or too polite to +raise the question, only taking care that the next time the "dog of a +Christian" should find a chain stretched across the gateway. This +Sir Anthony could not brook, so rode back threatening to break off +negotiations, and it affords a striking lesson as to the right way of +dealing with orientals, that even in those days the Moors should +have yielded and imprisoned the porter, permitting Sir Anthony's +entrance on horseback thereafter. The treaty he came to negotiate +was concluded, and relations with the Germans were established on a +right footing, but they have been little in evidence till recent years.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page292" id="page292"></a><span class="left">[page 292]</span> + +<h3>XXXI</h3> + +<h2>FRANCE IN MOROCCO</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Who stands long enough at the door is sure to enter at last."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +In a previous work on this country, "The Land of +the Moors," published in 1901, the present writer +concluded with this passage: "France alone is to +be feared in the Land of the Moors, which, as things +trend to-day, must in time form part of her colony. +There is no use disguising the fact, and, as England +certainly would not be prepared to go to war with +her neighbour to prevent her repeating in Morocco +what she has done in Tunis, it were better not to +grumble at her action. All England cares about is +the mouth of the Mediterranean, and if this were +secured to her, or even guaranteed neutral—were +that possible—she could have no cause to object to +the French extension. Our Moorish friends will +not listen to our advice; they keep their country +closed, as far as they can, refusing administrative +reforms which would prevent excuses for annexation. +Why should we trouble them? It were +better far to come to an agreement with France, +and acknowledge what will prove itself one day—that +France is the normal heir to Morocco whenever +the present Empire breaks up."</p> + +<a name="page293" id="page293"></a><span class="left">[page 293]</span> +<p> +Unpopular as this opinion was among the British +and other foreign subjects in the country, and +especially among the Moors, so that it had at first +no other advocate, it has since been adopted in +Downing Street, and what is of more moment, acted +upon. Nay more, Great Britain has, in return for +the mere recognition of a <i>fait accompli</i> in Egypt, +agreed to stand aside in Morocco, and to grant +France a free hand in any attempt to create there +a similar state of things. Though the principle +was good, the bargain was bad, for the positions +of the two contracting Powers, in Egypt and +Morocco respectively, were by no means analogous. +France could never have driven us out of Egypt +save with her sword at our throat; England had +but to unite with other Powers in blocking the way +of France in Morocco to stultify all her plans. Had +England stood out for terms, whether as regarding +her commercial interests in Morocco, which have +been disgracefully sacrificed, or in the form of concessions +elsewhere, a very much more equal-handed +bargain might have been secured.</p> +<p> +The main provisions of the agreement between +the two countries, concluded April 8, 1904, are—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +Art. II. "The British Government recognizes that it +appertains to France, more especially as being the Power +in contiguity with Morocco, to control the peace of the +country, and to lend its assistance in all administrative, +economical, financial, and military reforms. The British +Government declares that it will not interfere with the +action of France in this regard, provided that this action +will leave intact the rights which, in virtue of treaties, conventions, +and usages, Great Britain enjoys in Morocco, +including the right of coasting between the Morocco ports, +of which English vessels have had the benefit since 1901."</p> + +<a name="page294" id="page294"></a><span class="left">[page 294]</span> +<p> +Art. VII. "In order to secure the free passage of the +Straits of Gibraltar, both Governments agree not to allow +fortifications or any strategic works to be erected on that +part of the Moorish coast between Melilla and the heights +which dominate the right bank of the Sebu exclusively." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +France has secured all that she wanted, or rather +that her aggressive colonial party wanted, for +opinions on that point are by no means identical, +even in France, and the Agreement at once called +forth the condemnation of the more moderate party. +What appears to be permissive means much more. +Now that Great Britain has drawn back—the +Power to which the late Sir John Drummond Hay +taught the Moors to look with an implicit confidence +to champion them against all foes, as it did +in the case of the wars with France and Spain, +vetoing the retention of a foot of Moorish soil—Morocco +lies at the feet of France. France, indeed, +has become responsible for carrying out a task its +eager spirits have been boiling over for a chance of +undertaking. Morocco has been made the ward of +the hand that gripped it, which but recently filched +two outlying provinces, Figig and Tûát.</p> +<p> +Englishmen who know and care little about +Morocco are quite incapable of understanding the +hold that France already had upon this land. +Separated from it only by an unprotected boundary, +much better defined on paper than in fact, over +which there is always a "rectification" dispute in +pickle, her province of Algeria affords a prospective +base already furnished with lines of rail from her +ports of Oran and Algiers. From Oojda, an +insignificant town across the border from Lalla +Maghnîa (Marnia), there runs a valley route which<a name="page295" id="page295"></a><span class="left">[page 295]</span> +lays Fez in her power, with Táza by the way to +fortify and keep the mountaineers in check. At +any time the frontier forays in which the tribes on +both sides indulge may be fomented or exaggerated, +as in the case of Tunis, to afford a like excuse for a +similar occupation, which beyond a doubt would be +a good thing for Morocco. Fez captured, and the +seaports kept in awe or bombarded by the navy, +Mequinez would fall, and an army landed in +Mazagan would seize Marrákesh.</p> +<p> +All this could be accomplished with a minimum +of loss, for only the lowlands would have to be +crossed, and the mountaineers have no army. But +their "pacification" would be the lingering task in +which lives, time, and money would be lost beyond +all recompense. Against a European army that of +the Sultan need not be feared; only a few battalions +drilled by European officers might give trouble, +but they would see former instructors among the +foe, and without them they would soon become demoralized. +It would be the tribal skirmishers, of +whom half would fall before the others yielded to +the Nazarenes, who would give the trouble.</p> +<p> +The military mission which France has for many +years imposed on the Sultan at his expense, though +under her control, which follows him in his expeditions +and spies out the land, has afforded a training-ground +for a series of future invading leaders. Her +Algerian Mohammedan agents are able to pass and +repass where foreigners never go, and besides +collecting topographical and other information, they +have lost no opportunity of making known the +privileges and advantages of French rule. In case +it may be found advisable to set up a dummy<a name="page296" id="page296"></a><span class="left">[page 296]</span> +sultan under a protectorate, the French have an able +and powerful man to hand in the young Idreesi +Shareef of Wazzán, whom the English refused to +protect, and who, with his brother, received a French +education.</p> +<p> +But while we, as a nation, have been unable to +comprehend the French determination to possess +Morocco, they have been unable to comprehend +our calm indifference, and by the way in which +they betray their suspicions of us, they betray their +own methods. Protestant missionaries in Algeria +and Tunisia, of whatever nationality, are supposed +to be the emissaries of the British Government, and +in consequence are harassed and maligned, while +tourists outside the regular beat are watched. When +visiting Oojda some years ago, I myself was twice +arrested in Algeria, at Tlemçen and Lalla Maghnîa, +because mingling with natives, and it was with +difficulty that I could persuade the <i>juges d'instruction</i> +of my peaceful motives.</p> +<p> +Determined and successful efforts to become +acquainted with the remotest provinces of Morocco, +the distribution of its population, and whatever could +be of use to an invading or "pacifying" force have +long been made by France, but the most valuable +portion of this knowledge remains pigeon-holed, or +circulates only in strictly official <i>mémoires</i>. Many +of the officials engaged here, however, have amused +themselves and the public by publishing pretty +books of the average class, telling little new, while +one even took the trouble to write his in English, +in order to put us off the scent!</p> +<p> +If ever means could justify an end, France +deserves to enjoy the fruit of her labours. No<a name="page297" id="page297"></a><span class="left">[page 297]</span> +longer need she foment strife on the Algerian +frontier, or wink at arms being smuggled across +it; no longer need the mis-named "pretender" be +supplied with French gold, or intrigues be carried +on at Court. Abd el Azîz must take the advice +and "assistance" of France, whether he will or +no, and curse the British to whom he formerly +looked. This need not necessarily involve such +drastic changes as would rouse the people to rebellion, +and precipitate a costly conquest. There +are many reforms urgently required in the interests +of the people themselves, and these can now be +gradually enforced. Such reforms had been set on +foot already by the young Sultan, mainly under +British advice; but to his chagrin, his advisers did +not render the financial and moral support he needed +to carry them out. France is now free to do this, +and to strengthen his position, so that all wise reforms +may be possible. These will naturally commence +with civil and judicial functions, but must +soon embrace the more pressing public works, such +as roads, bridges, and port improvements. Railways +are likely to be the first roads in most parts, and +Mulai Abd el Azîz will welcome their introduction. +The western ideas which he has imbibed during the +last few years are scoffed at only by those who know +little of him. What France will have to be prepared +for is Court intrigue, and she will have to +give the Moors plainly to understand that "Whatsoever +king shall reign, she'll still be 'boss of the +show,' sir."</p> +<p> +As one of the first steps needed, but one requiring +the co-operation of all other Powers on treaty +terms with the Moors, the establishment of tribunals<a name="page298" id="page298"></a><span class="left">[page 298]</span> +to which all should be amenable, has already been +touched upon. These must necessarily be presided +over by specially qualified Europeans in +receipt of sufficient salary to remove them from +temptation. A clear distinction should then be +made between a civil code administered by such +tribunals and the jurisdiction of the Muslim law in +matters of religion and all dependent upon it. But +of even more pressing importance is the reform of +the currency, and the admission of Morocco to the +Latin Union. This could well be insisted on when +the financial question is discussed at the Algeciras +Conference, as well as the equally important establishment +in competent hands of a State Bank. +This and the reform of the whole fiscal system +must precede every other measure, as they form +the ground-work of the whole.</p> +<p> +Whatever public works may be eventually undertaken, +the first should be, as far as possible, such as +the Moors themselves can execute under European +direction, and as they can appreciate. Irrigation +would command enthusiasm where railways would +only provoke opposition, and the French could find +no surer way of winning the hearts of the people +than by coping at once with the agricultural water +supply, in order to provide against such years of +famine as the present, and worse that are well +remembered. That would be a form of "pacific +penetration," to which none could object.</p> +<p> +Education, too, when attempted, should be +gradually introduced as a means of personal advancement, +the requirements of the public service being +raised year by year, as the younger generation has +had opportunities of better qualifying themselves.<a name="page299" id="page299"></a><span class="left">[page 299]</span> +Above all, every post should be in theory at least +thrown open to the native, and in practice as soon +as the right man turned up. Better retain or +instal more of the able Moors of to-day as figureheads +with European advisers, than attempt a new +set to start with. But a clean sweep should be +made of the foreigners at present in the Moorish +service, all of whom should be adequately pensioned +off, that with the new order might come new men, +adequately paid and independent of "commissions." +It is essential that the people learn to feel that they +are not being exploited, but that their true welfare +is sought. Every reform should be carried out +along native lines, and in conformity with native +thought.</p> + +<br /><a name="execution" id="execution"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/299.jpg"><img src="images/299-277.jpg" width="277" height="430" alt="TUNISIA UNDER THE FRENCH—AN EXECUTION." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Albert, Photo., Tunis.</i><br /><br /> +<b>TUNISIA UNDER THE FRENCH—AN EXECUTION.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +The costly lesson of Algeria, where native rights +and interests were overthrown, and a complete detested +foreign rule set up, has taught the French +the folly of such a system, however glorious it may +appear on paper. They have been wiser in Tunisia, +where a nominally native government is directed +by Frenchmen, whom it pays, and sooner or later +Morocco is almost certain to become a second +Tunisia. This will not only prove the best working +system, but it will enable opposition to be dealt +with by Moorish forces, instead of by an invading +army, which would unite the Berber tribes under +the Moorish flag. This was what prolonged the +conquest of Algeria for so many years, and the +Berbers of Morocco are more independent and +better armed than were those of Algeria seventy +years ago. What France will gain by the change +beyond openings for Frenchmen and the glory of +an extended colonial empire, it is hard to imagine, +<a name="page300" id="page300"></a><span class="left">[page 300]</span> +but empty glory seems to satisfy most countries +greedy of conquest. So far the only outward evidences +of the new position are the over-running of +the ports, especially of Tangier, by Frenchmen of +an undesirable class, and by an attempt to establish +a French colony at the closed port of Mehedîya +by doubtful means, to say nothing of the increased +smuggling of arms.</p> +<p> +How the welfare of the Moors will be affected +by the change is a much more important question, +though one often held quite unworthy of consideration, +the accepted axiom being that, whether they +like it or not, what is good for us is good for them. +Needless to say that most of the reforms required +will be objected to, and that serious obstacles +will be opposed to some; the mere fact that the +foreigner, contemptuously called a "Nazarene," is +their author, is sufficient to prejudice them in native +eyes, and the more prominent the part played by +him, the more difficult to follow his advice. But if +the Sultan and his new advisers will consent to a +wise course of quiet co-operation, much may be +effected without causing trouble. It is astonishing +how readily the Moors submit to the most radical +changes when unostentatiously but forcibly carried +out. Never was there a greater call for the <i>suaviter +in modo, fortiter in re</i>. Power which makes itself +felt by unwavering action has always had their +respect, and if the Sultan is prepared not to act +till with gold in his coffers, disciplined troops at his +command, and loyal officials to do his behest, he +can do so with unquestioned finality, all will go well.</p> +<p> +Then will the prosperity of the people revive—indeed, +achieve a condition hitherto unknown save +<a name="page301" id="page301"></a><span class="left">[page 301]</span> +in two or three reigns of the distant past, perhaps +not then. The poor will not fear to sow their +barren fields, or the rich to display their wealth; +hidden treasure will come to light, and the groan of +the oppressed will cease. Individual cases of gross +injustice will doubtless arise; but they will be +as nothing compared with what occurs in Morocco +to-day, even with that wrought by Europeans +who avail themselves of existing evils. So that if +France is wise, and restrains her hot-heads, she +may perform a magnificent work for the Moors, as +the British have done in Egypt; at least, it is to be +hoped she may do as well in Morocco as in Tunisia.</p> +<p> +But it would be idle to ignore the deep dissatisfaction +with which the Anglo-French Agreement +has been received by others than the Moors.<a name="XXXI1r" id="XXXI1r"></a><a href="#XXXI1"><sup>*</sup></a> +Most British residents in Morocco, probably every +tourist who has been conducted along the coast, +or sniffed at the capital cities; those firms of ours +who share the bulk of the Moorish trade, and +others who yearned to open up possible mines, and +undertake the public works so urgently needed; +ay, and the concession-prospectors and company-mongers +who see the prey eluding their grasp; even +the would-be heroes across the straits who have +dreamed in vain of great deeds to be done on those +hills before them; all unite in deploring what +appears to them a gross blunder. After all, this +is but natural. So few of us can see beyond our +own domains, so many hunger after anything—in +their particular line—that belongs to a weaker +neighbour, that it is well we have disinterested +statesmen who take a wider view. Else had we<a name="page302" id="page302"></a><span class="left">[page 302]</span> +long since attempted to possess ourselves of the +whole earth, like the conquering hordes of Asia, +and in consequence we should have been dispossessed +ourselves.</p> +<p> +Even to have been driven to undertake in +Morocco a task such as we were in Egypt, would +have been a calamity, for our hands are too full +already of similar tasks. It is all very well in these +times of peace, but in the case of war, when we +might be attacked by more than one antagonist, we +should have all our work cut out to hold what +we have. The policy of "grab," and dabbing +the world with red, may be satisfactory up to a +certain point, but it will be well for us as a nation +when we realize that we have had enough. In +Morocco, what is easy for France with her contiguous +province, with her plans for trans-Sáharan +traffic, and her thirst to copy our colonial expansion—though +without men to spare—would have been +for us costly and unremunerative. We are well quit +of the temptation.</p> +<p> +Moreover, we have freed ourselves of a possible, +almost certain, cause of friction with France, of +itself a most important gain. Just as France would +never have acquiesced in our establishing a protectorate +in Morocco without something more +than words, so the rag-fed British public, always +capable of being goaded to madness by the newspapers, +would have bitterly objected to French +action, if overt, while powerless to prevent the +insidious grasp from closing on Morocco by degrees. +The first war engaging at once British attention +and forces was like to see France installed in +Morocco without our leave. The early reverses of<a name="page303" id="page303"></a><span class="left">[page 303]</span> +the Transvaal War induced her to appropriate Tûát +and Figig, and had the fortune of war been against +us, Morocco would have been French already. +These facts must not be overlooked in discussing +what was our wisest course. We were unprepared +to do what France was straining to do: we +occupied the manger to no one's good—practically +the position later assumed by Germany. Surely we +were wiser to come to terms while we could, not as +in the case of Tunisia, when too late.</p> +<p> +But among the objecting critics one class has +a right to be heard, those who have invested life +and fortune in the Morocco trade; the men who +have toiled for years against the discouraging odds +involved, who have wondered whether Moorish +corruption or British apathy were their worst foe, in +whom such feeling is not only natural but excusable. +Only those who have experienced it know what it +means to be defrauded by complacent Orientals, and +to be refused the redress they see officials of other +nations obtaining for rivals. Yet now they find all +capped by the instructions given to our consuls not +to act without conferring with the local representatives +of France, which leads to the taunt that Great +Britain has not only sold her interests in Morocco +to the French, but also her subjects!</p> +<p> +The British policy has all along been to maintain +the <i>status quo</i> in spite of individual interests, +deprecating interference which might seem high-handed, +or create a precedent from which retraction +would be difficult. In the collection of debts, in +enforcing the performance of contracts, or in securing +justice of any kind where the policy is to promise +all and evade all till pressure is brought to bear,<a name="page304" id="page304"></a><span class="left">[page 304]</span> +British subjects in Morocco have therefore always +found themselves at a disadvantage in competition +with others whose Governments openly supported +them. The hope that buoyed them up was that +one day the tide might turn, and that Great Britain +might feel it incumbent on her to "protect" +Morocco against all comers. Now hope has fled. +What avails it that grace of a generation's span +is allowed them, that they may not individually +suffer from the change? It is the dream of years +that lies shattered.</p> +<p> +Here are the provisions for their protection:</p> + +<blockquote><p> +Art. IV. "The two Governments, equally attached to +the principle of commercial liberty, both in Egypt and +Morocco, declare that they will not lend themselves to +any inequality either in the establishment of customs +rights or other taxes, or in the establishment of tariffs +for transport on the railways.... This mutual agreement +is valid for a period of thirty years" (subject to extensions +of five years).</p> +<p> +Art. V. secures the maintenance in their posts of British +officials in the Moorish service, but while it is specially +stipulated that French missionaries and schools in Egypt +shall not be molested, British missionaries in Morocco are +committed to the tender mercies of the French. +</p></blockquote> +<p> +Thus there can be no immediate exhibition of +favouritism beyond the inevitable placing of all concessions +in French hands, and there is really not +much ground of complaint, while there is a hope of +cause for thankfulness. Released from its former +bugbears, no longer open to suspicion of secret +designs, our Foreign Office can afford to impart a +little more backbone into its dealings with Moorish +officials; a much more acceptable policy should,<a name="page305" id="page305"></a><span class="left">[page 305]</span> +therefore, be forthwith inaugurated, that the Morocco +traders may see that what they have lost in possibilities +they have gained in actualities. Still more! +the French, now that their hands are free, are in a +position to "advise" reforms which will benefit all. +Thus out of the ashes of one hope another rises.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXXI1" id="XXXI1"></a> +<a href="#XXXI1r">*</a> See <a class="index" href="#appendix">Appendix.</a></p> +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page307" id="page307"></a><span class="left">[page 307]</span> + +<h2>PART III</h2> + +<h3>XXXII</h3> + +<h2>ALGERIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"One does not become a horseman till one has fallen."</p> + +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +A journey through Algeria shows what a stable +and enlightened Government has been able to do +in a land by no means so highly favoured by Nature +as Morocco, and peopled by races on the whole +inferior. The far greater proportion of land there +under cultivation emphasizes the backward state +of Morocco, although much of it still remains untouched; +while the superior quality of the produce, +especially of the fruits, shows what might +be accomplished in the adjoining country were its +condition improved. The hillsides of Algeria are +in many districts clothed with vines which prosper +exceedingly, often almost superseding cereals as +objects of cultivation by Europeans.</p> +<p> +The European colonists are of all nationalities, +and the proportion which is not French is astonishingly +large, but every inducement is held out for +naturalization as Algerians, and all legitimate +obstacles are thrown in the way of those who +maintain fidelity to their fatherlands. Every effort<a name="page308" id="page308"></a><span class="left">[page 308]</span> +is made to render Algeria virtually part of France, +as politically it is already considered to be. It is +the case of the old days of slavery revived under a +new form, when the renegade was received with +open arms, and the man who remained steadfast +was seldom released from slavery. Of course, in +these days there is nothing approaching such treatment, +and it is only the natives who suffer to any +extent.</p> +<p> +These are despised, if not hated, and despise +and hate in return. The conquerors have repeated +in Algeria the old mistake which has brought about +such dire results in other lands, of always retaining +the position of conquerors, and never unbending to +the conquered, or encouraging friendship with them. +This attitude nullifies whatever good may result +from the mixed schools in which Muslim, Jew, and +European are brought in contact, in the hope of +turning out a sort of social amalgam. Most of the +French settlers are too conceited and too ignorant +to learn Arabic, though this is by no means the +fault of the Government, which provides free public +classes for instruction in that language in the chief +towns of Algeria and Tunisia. The result is that +the natives who meet most with foreigners have, +without the most ordinary facilities enjoyed by +the Europeans, to pick up a jargon which often +does much more credit to them than the usual +light acquaintance of the foreigner with Arabic +does to him. Those who make any pretence at +it, usually speak it with an accent, a pronunciation +and a nonchalance which show that they have +taken no pains whatever to acquire it. Evidently +it pays better to spend money educating natives<a name="page309" id="page309"></a><span class="left">[page 309]</span> +in French than Frenchmen in Arabic. It is an +amusing fact that most of the teachers have produced +their own text-books, few of which possess +special merit.</p> +<p> +As a colony Algeria has proved a failure. +Foreign settlers hold most of the desirable land, +and till it with native labour. The native may +have safety and justice now, but he has suffered +terribly in the past, as the reports of the Bureau +Arabe, established for his protection, abundantly +prove, and bitterly he resents his fate. No love is +lost between French and natives in Tunisia, but +there is actual hatred in Algeria, fostered by the +foreigner far more than by the smouldering bigotry +of Islám. They do not seem to intermingle even +as oil and water, but to follow each a separate, +independent course.</p> +<p> +Among the foreign colonists it is a noteworthy +fact that the most successful are not the French, +who want too much comfort, but almost any of the +nationalities settled there, chiefly Spaniards and +Italians. The former are to be found principally +in the neighbourhood of Óran, and the latter further +east; they abound in Tunisia. Englishmen and +others of more independent nature have not been +made welcome in either country, and year by year +their interests have dwindled. Even in Tunisia, +under a different system, the same result has been +achieved, and every restriction reconcilable with +paper rights has been placed on other than French +imports. There may be an "open door," but +it is too closely guarded for us. The English +houses that once existed have disappeared, and +what business is done with this country has<a name="page310" id="page310"></a><span class="left">[page 310]</span> +had to take refuge with agents, for the most part +Jews.</p> +<p> +In studying the life of Algerian towns, the almost +entire absence of well-to-do Arabs or Berbers is +striking. I never came across one who might be +judged from his appearance to be a man of means +or position, unless in military or official garb, though +there are doubtless many independent natives +among the Berber and Arab tribes. The few +whom I encountered making any pretence of dressing +well were evidently of no social rank, and the +complaint on every hand is that the natives are +being gradually ousted from what little is left to +them.</p> +<p> +As for European law, they consider this to have +no connection with justice, and think themselves +very heavily taxed to support innovations with +which they have no concern, and which they would +rather dispense with. One can, indeed, feel for +them, though there is no doubt much to be said +on both sides, especially when it is the other side +which boasts the power, if not the superior intelligence. +The Jews, however, thrive, and in many +ways have the upper hand, especially so since the +wise move which accorded them the rights of +French citizenship. It is remarkable, however, +how much less conspicuous they are in the groups +about the streets than in Morocco, notwithstanding +that their dress is quite as distinctive as there, +though different.</p> +<p> +The new-comer who arrives at the fine port of +Algiers finds it as greatly transformed as its name +has been from the town which originally bore it, +El Jazîrah. The fine appearance of the rising<a name="page311" id="page311"></a><span class="left">[page 311]</span> +tiers of houses gives an impression of a still larger +city than it really is, for very little is hidden from +view except the suburbs. From a short way out +to sea the panorama is grand, but it cannot be as +chaste as when the native city clustered in the +hollow with its whitewashed houses and its many +minarets, completely surrounded by green which +has long since disappeared under the advancing tide +of bricks and mortar. One can hardly realize that +this fine French city has replaced the den of pirates +of such fearful histories. Yet there is the original +light-house, the depôt for European slaves, and away +on the top of yonder hill are remains of the ancient +citadel. It was there, indeed, that those dreadful +cruelties were perpetrated, where so many Christians +suffered martyrdom. Yes, this is where once stood +the "famous and war-like city, El Jazîrah," which +was in its time "the scourge of Christendom."</p> +<p> +Whether the visitor be pleased or disappointed +with the modern city depends entirely on what he +seeks. If he seeks Europe in Africa, with perhaps +just a dash of something oriental, he will be amply +satisfied with Algiers, which is no longer a native +city at all. It is as French as if it had risen from +the soil entirely under French hands, and only the +slums of the Arab town remain. The seeker after +native life will therefore meet with complete disappointment, +unless he comes straight from Europe, +with no idea what he ought to expect. All the +best parts of the town, the commercial and the +residential quarters, have long since been replaced +by European substitutes, leaving hardly a trace of +the picturesque originals, while every day sees a +further encroachment on the erstwhile African<a name="page312" id="page312"></a><span class="left">[page 312]</span> +portion, the interest of which is almost entirely removed +by the presence of crowds of poor Europeans +and European-dressed Jews. The visitor to Algiers +would therefore do well to avoid everything native, +unless he has some opportunity of also seeing something +genuine elsewhere. The only specimens he +meets in the towns are miserable half-caste fellows—by +habit, if not by birth,—for their dress, their +speech, their manners, their homes, their customs, +their religion—or rather their lack of religion,—have +all suffered from contact with Europeans. But even +before the Frenchmen came, it is notorious how the +Algerines had sunk under the bane of Turkish rule, +as is well illustrated by their own saying, that where +the foot of the Turk had trod, grass refused to +grow. Of all the Barbary States, perhaps none +has suffered more from successive outside influences +than the people of Algeria.</p> +<p> +The porter who seizes one's luggage does not +know when he is using French words or Arabic, or +when he introduces Italian, Turkish, or Spanish, +and cannot be induced to make an attempt at Arabic +to a European unless the latter absolutely refuses to +reply to his jargon. Then comes a hideous corruption +of his mother tongue, in which the foreign +expressions are adorned with native inflexions in +the most comical way. His dress is barbarous, +an ancient and badly fitting pair of trousers, and +stockingless feet in untidy boots, on the heels of +which he stamps along the streets with a most +unpleasant noise. The collection of garments which +complete his attire are mostly European, though +the "Fez" cap remains the distinctive feature of +the Muslim's dress, and a selhám—that cloak of<a name="page313" id="page313"></a><span class="left">[page 313]</span> +cloaks, there called a "bûrnûs"—is slung across his +shoulder. Some few countrymen are to be seen +who still retain the more graceful native costume, +with the typical camel-hair or cotton cord bound +round the head-dress, but the old inhabitants are +being steadily driven out of town.</p> + +<br /><a name="tent2" id="tent2"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/313.jpg"><img src="images/313-500.jpg" width="499" height="309" alt="TENT OF AN ALGERIAN SHEÏKH." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<br /> +<b>TENT OF AN ALGERIAN SHEÏKH.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +The characteristic feature of Algerian costumes +is the head-cord referred to, which pervades a great +part of Arabdom, in Syria and Arabia being composed +of two twists of black camel hair perhaps +an inch thick. In Algeria it is about an eighth of +an inch thick, and brown. The slippers are also +characteristic, but ugly, being of black leather, +excellently made, and cut very far open, till it +becomes an art to keep them on, and the heels +have to be worn up. The use of the white selhám +is almost universal, unhemmed at the edges, as in +Tunis also; and over it is loosely tied a short haïk +fastened on the head by the cord.</p> + +<p> +There is, however, even in Algiers itself, one +class of men who remain unaffected by their +European surroundings, passive amid much change, +a model for their neighbours. These are the Beni +M'záb, a tribe of Mohammedan Protestants from +southern Algeria, where they settled long ago, as +the Puritans did in New England, that they might +there worship God in freedom. They were the +Abadîya, gathered from many districts, who have +taken their modern name from the tribe whose +country they now inhabit. They speak a dialect of +Berber, and dress in a manner which is as distinctive +as their short stature, small, dark, oily features, jet-black +twinkling eyes, and scanty beard. They come +to the towns to make money, and return home to<a name="page314" id="page314"></a><span class="left">[page 314]</span> +spend it, after a few years of busy shop-keeping. A +butcher whom I met said that he and a friend had +the business year and year about, so as not to be +too long away from home at a time. They are +very hard-working, and have a great reputation for +honesty; they keep their shops open from about +five in the morning till nine at night. As the Beni +M'záb do not bring their wives with them, they +usually live together in a large house, and have +their own mosque, where they worship alone, resenting +the visits of all outsiders, even of other +Muslims. Admission to their mosque is therefore +practically refused to Europeans, but in Moorish +dress I was made welcome as some distinguished +visitor from saintly Fez, and found it very plain, +more like the kûbbah of a saint-house than an +ordinary mosque.</p> +<p> +There are also many Moors in Algeria, especially +towards the west. These, being better workmen than +the Algerines, find ready employment as labourers +on the railways. Great numbers also annually visit +Óran and the neighbourhood to assist at harvest +time. Those Moors who live there usually disport +themselves in trousers, strange to stay, and, when +they can afford it, carry umbrellas. They still adhere +to the turban, however, instead of adopting the +head cord. At Blidah I found that all the sellers +of sfinges—yeast fritters—were Moors, and those +whom I came across were enthusiastic to find one +who knew and liked their country. The Algerines +affect to despise them and their home, which they +declare is too poor to support them, thus accounting +for their coming over to work.</p> +<p> +The specimens of native architecture to be met<a name="page315" id="page315"></a><span class="left">[page 315]</span> +with in Algeria are seldom, if ever, pure in style, +and are generally extremely corrupt. The country +never knew prosperity as an independent kingdom, +such as Morocco did, and it is only in Tlemçen, on +the borders of that Empire, that real architectural +wealth is found, but then this was once the capital +of an independent kingdom. The palace at Constantine +is not Moorish at all, except in plan, being +adorned with a hap-hazard collection of odds and +ends from all parts. It is worse than even the +Bardo at Tunis, where there is some good plaster +carving—naksh el hadeed—done by Moorish or +Andalucian workmen. In the palaces of the Governor +and the Archbishop of Algiers, which are also very +composite, though not without taste, there is more +of this work, some of it very fine, though much of it +is merely modern moulded imitation.</p> +<p> +Of more than a hundred mosques and shrines +found in Algiers when it was taken by the French, +only four of the former and a small number of the +latter remain, the rest having been ruthlessly turned +into churches. The Mosque of Hasan, built just +over a century ago, is now the cathedral, though for +this transformation it has been considerably distorted, +and a mock-Moorish façade erected in the +very worst taste. Inside things are better, having +been less interfered with, but what is now a church +was never a good specimen of a mosque, having +been originally partly European in design, the work +of renegades. The same may be said of the Mosque +of the Fisheries, a couple of centuries old, built in +the form of a Greek cross! One can well understand +how the Dey, according to the story, had the +architect put to death on discovering this anomaly.<a name="page316" id="page316"></a><span class="left">[page 316]</span> +These incongruities mar all that is supposed in +Algeria to be Arabesque. The Great Mosque, +nevertheless, is more ancient and in better style, +more simple, more chaste, and more awe-inspiring. +The Zawîah of Sîdi Abd er-Rahmán, outside the +walls, is as well worth a visit as anything in Algiers, +being purely and typically native. It is for the +opportunities given for such peeps as this that one +is glad to wander in Algeria after tasting the real +thing in Morocco, where places of worship and baths +are closed to Europeans. These latter I found +all along North Africa to be much what they are +in Morocco, excepting only the presence of the +foreigners.</p> +<p> +The tile work of Algeria is ugly, but many of +the older Italian and other foreign specimens are +exceptionally good, both in design and colour. +Some of the Tunisian tiles are also noteworthy, +but it is probable that none of any real artistic value +were ever produced in what is now conveniently +called Algeria. There is nothing whatever in either +country to compare with the exquisite Fez work +found in the Alhambra, hardly to rival the inferior +productions of Tetuan. A curious custom in Algeria +is to use all descriptions of patterns together +"higgledy-piggledy," upside down or side-ways, +as though the idea were to cover so much surface +with tiling, irrespective of design. Of course this +is comparatively modern, and marks a period since +what art Algeria ever knew had died out. It is +noticeable, too, how poor the native manufacturers +are compared with those of Morocco, themselves of +small account beside those of the East. The wave +of civilization which swept over North Africa in the<a name="page317" id="page317"></a><span class="left">[page 317]</span> +Middle Ages failed to produce much effect till it +recoiled upon itself in the far, far west, and then +turned northward into Spain.</p> +<p> +Notwithstanding all this, Algeria affords an +ample field for study for the scientist, especially +the mountain regions to the south, where Berber +clans and desert tribes may be reached in a manner +impossible yet in Morocco, but the student of +oriental life should not visit them till he has learnt +to distinguish true from false among the still behind-hand +Moors.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page318" id="page318"></a><span class="left">[page 318]</span> + +<h3>XXXIII</h3> + +<h2>TUNISIA VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"The slave toils, but the Lord completes."</p> + +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +Fortunately for the French, the lesson learned in +Algeria was not neglected when the time came for +their "pacific penetration" of Tunisia. Their first +experience had been as conquerors of anything but +pacific intent, and for a generation they waged war +with the Berber tribes. Everywhere, even on the +plains, where conquest was easy, the native was +dispossessed. The land was allotted to Frenchmen +or to natives who took the oath of allegiance to +France, and became French subjects. Those who +fought for their fatherland were driven off, the +villages depopulated, and the country laid waste. In +the cities the mosques were desecrated or appropriated +to what the native considered idolatrous +worship. They have never been restored to their +owners. Those Algerines only have flourished +who entered the French army or Government +service, and affected manners which all but cut +them off from their fellow-countrymen.</p> +<p> +In Tunisia the French succeeded, under cover +of specious assurances to the contrary, in overthrowing +the Turkish beys, rehabilitating them in +name as their puppets, with hardly more opposition +<a name="page319" id="page319"></a><span class="left">[page 319]</span> +than the British met with in Burma. The result +is a nominally native administration which takes +the blame for failures, and French direction which +takes the credit for successes. All that was best +in Algeria has been repeated, but native rights +have been respected, and the cities, with their +mosques and shrines, left undisturbed as far as +possible. The desecration of the sacred mosque +of Kaïrwán as a stable was a notable exception.</p> +<p> +The difference between the administration of +Algeria and that of Tunisia makes itself felt at +every step. In the one country it is the ruling +of a conquered people for the good of the conquerors +alone, and in the other it is the ruling of +an unconquered people by bolstering up and improving +their own institutions under the pretence +of seeking their welfare. The immense advantage +of the Tunisian system is apparent on all sides. +The expense is less, the excuses for irregularities +are greater, and the natives still remain a nominal +power in the land, instead of being considered as +near serfs as is permissible in this twentieth century.</p> +<p> +The results of the French occupation were +summed up to me by a Tunisian as the making +of roads, the introduction of more money and much +drunkenness, and the institution of laws which no +native could ever hope to understand. But France +has done more than that in Tunis, even for the +native. He has the benefit of protection for life +and property, with means of education and facilities +for travel, and an outlet for his produce. He might +do well—and there are many instances of commercial +success—but while he is jibbing against the foreign +yoke, the expatriated Jews, whom he treated so<a name="page320" id="page320"></a><span class="left">[page 320]</span> +badly when he had the upper hand, are outstripping +him every day. The net result of the foreigners' +presence is good for him, but it would be much +better had he the sense to take advantage of his +chances as the Jew does. Many of the younger +generation, indeed, learn French, and enter the +great army of functionaries, but they are rigidly +restricted to the lowest posts, and here again the +Jew stands first.</p> +<p> +In business or agriculture there is sure to come +a time when cash is needed, so that French and +Jewish money-lenders flourish, and when the Tunisian +cannot pay, the merciless hand of foreign law +irresistibly sells him up. In the courts the complicated +procedure, the intricate code, and the swarm +of lawyers, bewilder him, and he sighs for the time +when a bribe would have settled the question, and +one did at least know beforehand which would win—the +one with the longer purse. Now, who +knows? But the Tunisian's principal occasions for +discontent are the compulsory military service, and +the multiplication and weight of the taxes. From +the former only those are exempt who can pass +certain examinations in French, and stiff ones at +that, so that Arabic studies are elbowed out; the +unremitted military duties during the Ramadán fast +are regarded as a peculiar hardship. To the taxes +there seems no end, and from them no way of +escape. Even the milkman complains, for example, +that though his goats themselves are taxed, he +cannot bring their food into town from his garden +without an additional charge being paid!</p> +<p> +With the superficial differences to be accounted +for by this new state of things, there still remains<a name="page321" id="page321"></a><span class="left">[page 321]</span> +much more in Tunisia to remind one of Morocco +than in Algeria. What deeper distinctions there +are result in both countries from Turkish influence, +and Turkish blood introduced in the past, but even +these do not go very deep. Beneath it all there +are the foundations of race and creed common to all, +and the untouched countryman of Tunisia is closely +akin to his fellow of Morocco. Even in the towns +the underlying likeness is strong.</p> +<p> +The old city of Tunis is wonderfully like that +of Fez; the streets, the shops, the paving, being +identical; but in the former a picturesque feature +is sometimes introduced, stone columns forming +arcades in front of the shops, painted in spiral +bands of green and red, separated by a band of +white. The various trades are grouped there as +further west, and the streets are named after them. +The Mellah, or Jewish Quarter, has lost its boundary, +as at Tangier, and the gates dividing the various +wards have disappeared too. Hardly anything +remains of the city walls, new ones having arisen to +enclose the one European and two native suburbs. +But under a modern arcade in the main street, the +Avenue de France, there is between the shops the +barred gate leading to a mosque behind, which does +not look as if it were often opened.</p> +<p> +Tramways run round the line of the old walls, +and it is strange to see the natives jumping on and +off without stopping the car, in the most approved +western style. There, as in the trains, European +and African sit side by side, though it is to be +observed that as a rule, should another seat be free, +neither gets in where the other is. As for hopes +of encouraging any degree of amalgamation, these<a name="page322" id="page322"></a><span class="left">[page 322]</span> +are vain indeed. A mechanical mixture is all that +can be hoped for: nothing more is possible. A +few French people have embraced Islám for worldly +aims, and it is popularly believed by the natives +that in England thousands are accepting Mohammed.</p> +<p> +The mosques of Tunis are less numerous than +those of Fez, but do not differ greatly from them +except in the inferior quality of the tile-work, and +in the greater use of stone for the arches and +towers. The latter are of the Moorish square +shape, but some, if not all, are ascended by steps, +instead of by inclined planes. The mosques, with +the exception of that at Kaïrwán—the most holy, +strange to say—are as strictly forbidden to Europeans +and Jews as in Morocco, and screens are put +up before the doors as in Tangier.</p> +<p> +The Moors are very well known in Tunis, so +many of them, passing through from Mekka on the +Hajj, have been prevented from getting home by +quarantine or lack of funds. Clad as a Moor myself, +I was everywhere recognized as from that country, +and was treated with every respect, being addressed +as "Amm el Háj" ("Uncle Pilgrim"), having my +shoulders and hands kissed in orthodox fashion. +There are several <i>cafés</i> where Morocco men are to +be met with by the score. One feature of this +cosmopolitan city is that there are distinct <i>cafés</i> for +almost every nation represented here except the +English.</p> +<p> +The Arabs of Morocco are looked upon as great +thieves, but the Sûsis have the highest reputation +for honesty. Not only are all the gate-keepers of +the city from that distant province, but also those +of the most important stores and houses, as well as<a name="page323" id="page323"></a><span class="left">[page 323]</span> +of the railway-stations, and many are residents in +the town. The chief snake-charmers and story-tellers +also hail from Sûs.</p> +<p> +The veneration for Mulai Táïb of Wazzán, from +whom the shareefs of that place are descended, is +great, and the Aïsáwa, hailing from Mequinez, are +to be met with all along this coast; they are +especially strong at Kaïrwán. In Tunis, as also in +Algeria and Tripoli, the comparative absence of any +objection to having pictures taken of human beings, +which is an almost insurmountable hindrance in +Morocco, again allowed me to use my kodak frequently, +but I found that the Jews had a strong +prejudice against portraits.</p> +<p> +The points in which the domestic usages of +Tunisia differ from those of Morocco are the more +striking on account of the remarkably minute +resemblance, if not absolute identity, of so very +many others, and as the novelty of the innovations +wears off, it is hard to realize that one is not still in +the "Far West."</p> +<p> +In a native household of which I found myself +temporarily a member, it was the wholesale assimilation +of comparatively trivial foreign matters which +struck me. Thus, for instance, as one of the sons +of my host remarked—though he was dressed in a +manner which to most travellers would have appeared +exclusively oriental—there was not a thing upon +him which was not French. Doubtless a closer examination +of his costume would have shown that +some of the articles only reached him through French +hands, but the broad fact remained that they were +all foreign. It is in this way that the more civilized +countries show a strong and increasing tendency to<a name="page324" id="page324"></a><span class="left">[page 324]</span> +develop into nations of manufacturers, with their +gigantic workshops forcing the more backward, +<i>nolens volens</i>, to relapse to the more primitive condition +of producers of raw material only.</p> +<p> +There was, of course, a time when every garment +such a man would have worn would have been of +native manufacture, without having been in any +feature less complete, less convenient, or less artistic +than his present dress. In many points, indeed, +there is a distinct loss in the more modern style, +especially in the blending of colours, while it is +certain that in no point has improvement been +made. My friend, for instance, had the addition, +common there, of a pair of striped merino socks, +thrust into a pair of rubber-soled tennis shoes. +Underneath he wore a second pair of socks, and +said that in winter he added a third. Above them +was not much bare leg, for the pantaloons are cut +there so as often to reach right down to the ankles. +This is necessitated by the custom of raising the +mattresses used for seats on divans, and by sitting +at table on European chairs with the legs dangling +in the cold. The turban has nothing of the gracefulness +of its Moorish counterpart, being often of a +dirty-green silk twisted into a rope, and then bound +round the head in the most inelegant fashion, sometimes +showing the head between the coils; they are +not folds. Heads are by no means kept so carefully +shaved as in Morocco, and I have seen hair +which looked as though only treated with scissors, +and that rarely.</p> +<p> +The fashion for all connected with the Government +to wear European dress, supplemented by the +"Fez" (fortunately not the Turkish style), brings<a name="page325" id="page325"></a><span class="left">[page 325]</span> +about most absurd anomalies. This is especially +observable in the case of the many very stout +individuals who waddle about like ducks in their +ungainly breeches. I was glad to find on visiting +the brother of the late Bey that he retained the +correct costume, though the younger members of +his family and all his attendants were in foreign +guise. The Bey himself received me in the frock-coat +with pleated skirt, favoured by his countrymen +the Turks.</p> + +<br /><a name="tunisian" id="tunisian"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/325.jpg"><img src="images/325-279.jpg" width="279" height="430" alt="A TUNISIAN JEWESS IN STREET DRESS." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Albert, Photo., Tunis.</i><br /><br /> +<b>A TUNISIAN JEWESS IN STREET DRESS.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +The Mohammedan women seen in the streets +generally wear an elegant fine silk and wool haïk +over a costume culminating in a peaked cap, the +face being covered—all but the eyes—by two black +handkerchiefs, awful to behold, like the mask of a +stage villain. More stylish women wear a larger +veil, which they stretch out on either side in front +of them with their hands. They seem to think +nothing of sitting in a railway carriage opposite a +man and chatting gaily with him. I learn from +an English lady resident in Tunis that the indoor +costume of the women is much that of the Jewesses +out of doors—extraordinary indeed. It is not +every day that one meets ladies in the street in +long white drawers, often tight, and short jackets, +black or white, but this is the actual walking dress +of the Jewish ladies of Tunis.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page326" id="page326"></a><span class="left">[page 326]</span> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<h3>XXXIV</h3> + +<h2>TRIPOLI VIEWED FROM MOROCCO</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Every sheep hangs by her own legs."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +When, after an absence of twenty months, I found +myself in Tripoli, although far enough from Morocco, +I was still amid familiar sights and sounds which +made it hard to realize that I was not in some +hitherto unvisited town of that Empire. The petty +differences sank to naught amid the wonderful +resemblances. It was the Turkish element alone +which was novel, and that seemed altogether out of +place, foreign as it is to Africa. There was something +quite incongruous in the sight of those ungainly +figures in their badly fitting, quasi-European +black coats and breeches, crowned with tall and +still more ungainly red caps. The Turks are such +an inferior race to the Berbers and Arabs that it is +no wonder that they are despised by the natives. +They appear much more out of place than do the +Europeans, who remain, as in Morocco, a class by +themselves. To see a Turk side by side with a +white-robed native at prayer in a mosque is too +ridiculous, and to see him eating like a wild man +of the woods! Even the governor, a benign +old gentleman, looked very undignified in his +shabby European surroundings, after the important<a name="page327" id="page327"></a><span class="left">[page 327]</span> +appearance of the Moorish functionaries in their +flowing robes. The sentinels at the door seemed to +have been taught to imitate the wooden salute of +the Germans, which removes any particle of grace +which might have remained in spite of their clumsy +dress. It is a strange sight to see them selling +their rations of uninviting bread in the market to +buy something more stimulating. They squat +behind a sack on the ground as the old women do +in Tangier. These are the little things reminding +one that Tripoli is but a Turkish dependency.</p> +<p> +We may complain of the Moorish customs +arrangements, but from my own experience, and +from what others tell me, I should say that here is +worse still. Not only were our things carefully +overhauled, but the books had to be examined, as a +result of which process Arabic works are often confiscated, +either going in or out. The confusing lack +of a monetary system equals anything even in +southern Morocco, between which and this place +the poor despised "gursh" turns up as a familiar +link, not to be met with between Casablanca and +Tripoli.</p> +<p> +Perhaps the best idea of the town for those +readers acquainted with Morocco will be to call it a +large edition of Casablanca. The country round +is flat, the streets are on the whole fairly regular, +and wider than the average in this part of the +world. Indeed, carriages are possible, though not +throughout the town. A great many more flying +arches are thrown across the streets than we are +accustomed to further west, but upper storeys are +rare. The paving is of the orthodox Barbary style.</p> +<p> +The Tripolitan mosques are of a very different<a name="page328" id="page328"></a><span class="left">[page 328]</span> +style from those of Morocco, the people belonging +to a different sect—the Hánafis—Moors, +Algerines and Tunisians being of the more rigorous +Málikis. Instead of the open courtyard surrounded +by a colonnade, here they have a perfectly +closed interior roofed with little domes, and lighted +by barred windows. The walls are adorned with +inferior tiles, mostly European, and the floors are +carpeted. Round the walls hang cheap glazed +texts from the Korán, and there is a general +appearance of tawdry display which is disappointing +after the chaste adornment of the finer Moorish +mosques, or even the rude simplicity of the poorer +ones. Orders may be obtained to view these buildings, +of which it is hardly necessary to say I availed +myself, in one case ascending also the minaret. +These minarets are much less substantial than those +of Morocco, being octangular, with protruding stone +balconies in something of the Florentine style, +reached by winding stairs. The exteriors are whitewashed, +the balconies being tiled, and the cupolas +painted green. Lamps are hung out at certain +feasts. As for the voice of the muédhdhin, it must +be fairly faint, since during the week I was there +I never heard it. In Morocco this would have +been an impossibility.</p> +<p> +The language, though differing in many minor +details from that employed in Morocco, presents no +difficulty to conversation, but it was sometimes +necessary to try a second word to explain myself. +The differences are chiefly in the names of common +things in daily use, and in common adjectives. The +music was identical with what we know in the "Far +West." Religious strictness is much less than in<a name="page329" id="page329"></a><span class="left">[page 329]</span> +Morocco, the use of intoxicants being fairly general +in the town, the hours of prayer less strictly kept, +and the objection to portraits having vanished. +There seemed fewer women in the streets than in +Morocco, but those who did appear were for the +most part less covered up; there was nothing new +in the way the native women were veiled, only one +eye being shown—I do not now take the foreign +Turks into account.</p> +<p> +In the streets the absence of the better-class +natives is most noticeable; one sees at once that +Tripoli is not an aristocratic town like Fez, Tetuan, +or Rabat. The differences which exist between the +costumes observed and those of Morocco are almost +entirely confined to the upper classes. The poor +and the country people would be undistinguishable +in a Moorish crowd. Among the townsfolk stockings +and European shoes are common, but there +are no native slippers to equal those of Morocco, +and yellow ones are rare. I saw no natives riding +in the town; though in the country it must be +more common. The scarcity of four-footed beasts +of burden is noticeable after the crowded Moorish +thoroughfares.</p> +<p> +On the whole there is a great lack of the picturesque +in the Tripoli streets, and also of noise. The +street cries are poor, being chiefly those of vegetable +hawkers, and one misses the striking figure of the +water-seller, with his tinkling bell and his cry.</p> +<p> +The houses and shops are much like those of +Morocco, so far as exteriors go, and so are the +interiors of houses occupied by Europeans. The +only native house to which I was able to gain +access was furnished in the worst possible mixture<a name="page330" id="page330"></a><span class="left">[page 330]</span> +of European and native styles to be found in many +Jewish houses in Morocco, but from what I gleaned +from others this was no exception to the rule.</p> +<p> +Unfortunately the number of grog-shops is unduly +large, with all their attendant evils. The +wheeled vehicles being foreign, claim no description, +though the quaintness of the public ones is great. +Palmetto being unknown, the all-pervading halfah +fibre takes its place for baskets, ropes, etc. The +public ovens are very numerous, and do not differ +greatly from the Moorish, except in being more +open to the street. The bread is much less tempting; +baked in small round cakes, varnished, made +yellow with saffron, and sprinkled with gingelly +seed. Most of the beef going alive to Malta, +mutton is the staple animal food; vegetables are +much the same as in Morocco.</p> +<p> +The great drawback to Tripoli is its proximity +to the desert, which, after walking through a belt +of palms on the land side of the town—itself built +on a peninsula—one may see rolling away to the +horizon. The gardens and palm groves are watered +by a peculiar system, the precious liquid being +drawn up from the wells by ropes over pulleys, in +huge leather funnels of which the lower orifice is +slung on a level with the upper, thus forming a bag. +The discharge is ingeniously accomplished automatically +by a second rope over a lower pulley, the +two being pulled by a bullock walking down an +incline. The lower lip being drawn over the lower +pulley, releases the water when the funnel reaches +the top.</p> +<p> +The weekly market, Sôk et-Thláthah, held on +the sands, is much as it would be in the Gharb el<a name="page331" id="page331"></a><span class="left">[page 331]</span> +Jawáni, as Morocco is called in Tripoli. The +greater number of Blacks is only natural, especially +when it is noted that hard by they have a large +settlement.</p> + +<br /><a name="tripoli" id="tripoli"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/330.jpg"><img src="images/330-500.jpg" width="500" height="309" alt="OUTSIDE TRIPOLI." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Photograph by G. Michell, Esq.</i><br /><br /> +<b>OUTSIDE TRIPOLI.</b> +</p><br /><br /> +<p> +It would, of course, be possible to enter into a +much more minute comparison, but sufficient has +been said to give a general idea of Tripoli to those +who know something of Morocco, without having +entered upon a general description of the place. +From what I saw of the country people, I have no +doubt that further afield the similarity between them +and the people of central and southern Morocco, +to whom they are most akin, would even be +increased.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page332" id="page332"></a><span class="left">[page 332]</span> + +<h3>XXXV</h3> + +<h2>FOOT-PRINTS OF THE MOORS IN SPAIN</h2> + +<p class="center1"> +"Every one buries his mother as he likes."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + + +<h4>I. <span class="sc">First Impressions</span>.</h4> + +<p> +Much as I had been prepared by the accounts of +others to observe the prevalence of Moorish remains +in the Peninsula, I was still forcibly struck at every +turn by traces of their influence upon the country, +especially in what was their chief home there, +Andalucia. Though unconnected with these traces, +an important item in strengthening this impression +is the remarkable similarity between the natural +features of the two countries. The general contour +of the surface is the same on either side of the +straits for a couple of hundred miles; the same +broad plains, separated by low ranges of hills, and +crossed by sluggish, winding streams, fed from +distant snow-capped mountains, and subject to +sudden floods. The very colours of the earth are +the same in several regions, the soil being of that +peculiar red which gives its name to the Blád +Hamrá ("Red Country") near Marrákesh. This +is especially observable in the vicinity of Jeréz, +and again at Granáda, where one feels almost in<a name="page333" id="page333"></a><span class="left">[page 333]</span> +Morocco again. Even the colour of the rugged +hills and rocks is the same, but more of the soil is +cultivated than in any save the grain districts of +Morocco.</p> +<p> +The vegetation is strikingly similar, the aloe and +the prickly pear, the olive and the myrtle abounding, +while from the slight glimpses I was able to +obtain of the flora, the identity seems also to be +continued there. Yet all this, though interesting +to the observer, is not to be wondered at. It is our +habit of considering the two lands as if far apart, +because belonging to separate continents, which +leads us to expect a difference between countries +divided only by a narrow gap of fourteen miles or +less, but one from whose formation have resulted +most important factors in the world's history.</p> +<p> +The first striking reminders of the Moorish +dominion are the names of Arabic origin. Some +of the most noteworthy are Granáda (Gharnátah), +Alcazar (El Kasar), Arjona (R'honah), Gibraltar +(Gibel Tárik), Trafalgár (Tarf el Gharb, "West +Point"), Medinah (Madînah, "Town"), Algeciras +(El Jazîrah, "The Island"), Guadalquivir (Wád el +Kebeer—so pronounced in Spain—"The Great +River"), Mulahacen (Mulai el Hasan), Alhama +(El Hama, "The Hot Springs"), and numberless +others which might be mentioned, including almost +every name beginning with "Al."</p> +<p> +The rendering of these old Arabic words +into Spanish presents a curious proof of the +changes which the pronunciation of the Spanish +alphabet has undergone during the last four centuries. +To obtain anything like the Arabic sound +it is necessary to give the letters precisely the same<a name="page334" id="page334"></a><span class="left">[page 334]</span> +value as in English, with the exception of pronouncing +"x" as "sh." Thus the word "alhaja," +in everyday use—though unrecognizable as heard +from the lips of the modern Castilian, "aláha,"—is +nothing but the Arabic "el hájah," with practically +the same meaning in the plural, "things" or +"goods." To cite more is unnecessary. The +genuine pronunciation is still often met with among +Jews of Morocco who have come little in contact +with Spaniards, and retain the language of +their ancestors when expelled from the Peninsula, +as also in Spanish America.</p> +<p> +The Spanish language is saturated with corrupted +Arabic, at all events so far as nouns are +concerned. The names of families also are frequently +of Arabic origin, as, for instance, Alarcos +(Er-Rakkás—"the courier"), Alhama, etc., most of +which are to be met with more in the country than +in the towns, while very many others, little suspected +as such, are Jewish. Although when the +most remarkable of nations was persecuted and +finally expelled from Spain, a far larger proportion +nobly sacrificed their all rather than accept the +bauble religion offered them by "The Catholic +Kings" (King and Queen), they also have left +their mark, and many a noble family could, if it +would, trace its descent from the Jews. Some of +their synagogues are yet standing, notably at +Toledo—whence the many Toledános,—built by +Samuel Levy, who was secretary to Don Pedro +the Cruel. This was in 1336, a century and a half +before the Moors were even conquered, much less +expelled, and if the sons of Ishmael have left their +mark upon that sunny land, so have the sons of<a name="page335" id="page335"></a><span class="left">[page 335]</span> +Israel, though in a far different manner. Morocco +has ever since been the home of the descendants of +a large proportion of the exiles.</p> +<p> +The Spanish physiognomy, not so much of the +lower as of the upper classes, is strikingly similar +to that of the mountaineers of Morocco, and these +include some of the finest specimens. The Moors +of to-day are of too mingled a descent to present +any one distinct type of countenance, and it is the +same with the Spaniards. So much of the blood of +each flows in the veins of the other, that comparison +is rendered more difficult. It is a well-known fact +that several of the most ancient families in the +kingdom can trace their descent from Mohammedans. +A leading instance of this is the house +of Mondéjar, lords of Granáda from the time of +its conquest, as the then head of the house, +Sidi Yahia, otherwise Don Pedro de Granáda, +had become a Christian. In the Generalife at that +town, still in the custody of the same family, is a +genealogical tree tracing its origin right back to +the Goths!<a name="XXXV1r" id="XXXV1r"></a><a href="#XXXV1"><sup>*</sup></a></p> +<p> +Next to physiognomy come habits and customs, +and of these there are many which have been +borrowed, or rather retained, from the Moors, +especially in the country. The ploughs, the water-mills, +the water-wheels, the irrigation, the treading +out of the corn, the weaving of coarse cloth, and +many other daily sights, from their almost complete +similarity, remind one of Morocco. The bread-shops +they call "tahônas," unaware that this is the +Arabic for a flour-mill; their water-wheels they +still call by their Arabic name, "naôrahs," and it is<a name="page336" id="page336"></a><span class="left">[page 336]</span> +the same with their pack-saddles, "albardas" (bardah). +The list might be extended indefinitely, +even from such common names as these.</p> +<p> +The salutations of the people seem literal translations +of those imported from the Orient, such as +I am not aware of among other Europeans. What, +for instance, is "Dios guarda Vd." ("God keep +you"), said at parting, but the "Allah îhannak" of +Morocco, or "se lo passe bien," but "B'is-salámah" +("in peace!"). More might be cited, but to those +unacquainted with Arabic they would be of little +interest.</p> +<p> +Then, again, the singing of the country-folk in +southern Spain has little to distinguish it from that +indulged in by most Orientals. The same sing-song +drawl with numerous variations is noticeable +throughout. Once a more civilized tune gets +among these people for a few months, its very composer +would be unlikely to recognize its prolongations +and lazy twists.</p> +<p> +The narrow, tortuous streets of the old towns +once occupied by the invaders take one back across +the straits, and the whole country is covered with +spots which, apart from any remains of note, are +associated by record or legend with anecdotes from +that page of Spanish history. Here it is the "Sigh +of the Moor," the spot from which the last Ameer +of Andalucia gazed in sorrow on the capital that he +had lost; there it is a cave (at Criptana) where the +Moors found refuge when their power in Castile +was broken; elsewhere are the chains (in Toledo) +with which the devotees of Islám chained their +Christian captives.</p> +<p> +In addition to this, the hills of a great part<a name="page337" id="page337"></a><span class="left">[page 337]</span> +of Spain are dotted with fortresses of "tabia" +(rammed earth concrete) precisely such as are occupied +still by the country kaïds of Morocco; and by +the wayside are traces of the skill exercised in +bringing water underground from the hills beyond +Marrákesh. How many church towers in Spain +were built for the call of the muédhdhin, and how +many houses had their foundations laid for hareems! +In the south especially such are conspicuous from +their design. To crown all stand the palaces and +mosques of Córdova, Sevílle, and Granáda, not to +mention minor specimens.</p> +<p> +When we talk of the Moors in Spain, we often +forget how nearly we were enabled to speak also of +the Moors in France. Their brave attempts to +pass that natural barrier, the Pyrenees, find a suitable +monument in the perpetual independence of +the wee republic of Andorra, whose inhabitants so +successfully stemmed the tide of invasion. The +story of Charles Martel, too, the "Hammer" who +broke the Muslim power in that direction, is one +of the most important in the history of Europe. +What if the people who were already levying taxes +in the districts of Narbonne and Nîmes had found +as easy a victory over the vineyards of southern +France, as they had over those of Spain? Where +would they have stopped? Would they ever have +been driven out, or would St. Paul's have been a +second Kûtûbîya, and Westminster a Karûeeïn? +God knows!</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXXV1" id="XXXV1"></a> +<a href="#XXXV1r">*</a> Andalucia is but a corruption of Vandalucia.</p> + +<br /> + +<a name="page338" id="page338"></a><span class="left">[page 338]</span> + + +<h4>II. <span class="sc">Córdova</span></h4> + +<p> +The earliest notable monument of Moorish +dominion in Andalucia still existing is the famous +mosque of Córdova, now deformed into a cathedral. +Its erection occupied the period from 786 to 796 +of the Christian era, and it is said that it stands +on the site of a Gothic church erected on the ruins +of a still earlier temple dedicated to Janus. Portions, +however, have been added since that date, as inscriptions +on the walls record, and the European +additions date from 1521, when, notwithstanding +the protests of the people of Córdova, the bishops +obtained permission from Charles V. to rear the +present quasi-Gothic structure in its central court. +The disgust and anger which the lover of Moorish +architecture—or art of any sort—feels for the name +of "<i>Carlos quinto</i>," as at point after point hideous +additions to the Moorish remains are ascribed to +that conceited monarch, are somewhat tempered for +once by the record that even he repented when he +saw the result of his permission in this instance. +"You have built here," he said, "what you might +have built anywhere, and in doing so you have +spoiled what was unique in the world!" In each +of the three great centres of Moorish rule, Sevílle, +Granáda and Córdova, the same hand is responsible +for outrageous modern erections in the midst of +hoary monuments of eastern art, carefully inscribed +with their author's name, as "Cæsar the Emperor, +Charles the Fifth."</p> +<p> +The Córdova Mosque, antedated only by those +of Old Cairo and Kaïrwán, is a forest of marble<a name="page339" id="page339"></a><span class="left">[page 339]</span> +pillars, with a fine court to the west, surrounded +by an arcade, and planted with orange trees and +palms, interspersed with fountains. Nothing in +Morocco can compare with it save the Karûeeïn +mosque at Fez, built a century later, but that building +is too low, and the pillars are for the most part +mere brick erections, too short to afford the elegance +which here delights. This is grand in its simplicity; +nineteen aisles of slightly tapering columns of beautiful +marbles, jasper or porphyry, about nine feet in +height, supporting long vistas of flying horse-shoe +arches, of which the stones are now coloured +alternately yellow and red, though probably intended +to be all pure white. Other still more +elegant scolloped arches, exquisitely decorated by +carving the plaster, spring between alternate pillars, +and from arch to arch, presumably more modern +work.</p> +<p> +The aisles are rather over twenty feet in width, +and the thirty-three cross vaultings about half as +much, while the height of the roof is from thirty to +forty feet. In all, the pillars number about 500, +though frequently stated to total 850 out of an +original 1419, but it is difficult to say where all +these can be, since the sum of 33 by 19 is only +627, and a deduction has to be made for the +central court, in which stands the church or choir. +Since these notes were first published, in 1890, I +have seen it disputed between modern impressionist +writers which of them first described the wonderful +scene as a palm grove, a comparison of which I had +never heard when I wrote, but the wonder to me +would be if any one could attempt to picture the +scene without making use of it.</p> + +<a name="page340" id="page340"></a><span class="left">[page 340]</span> +<p> +Who but a nation of nomads, accustomed to +obey the call to prayer beneath the waving branches +of African and Arabian palm-groves, would have +dreamed of raising such a House of God? Unless +for the purpose of supporting a wide and solid roof, +or of dividing the centre into the form of a cross, +what other ecclesiastical architects would have conceived +the idea of filling a place of worship with +pillars or columns? No one who has walked in a +palm-grove can fail to be struck by the resemblance +to it of this remarkable mosque. The very tufted +heads with their out-curving leaves are here reproduced +in the interlacing arches, and with the light +originally admitted by the central court and the +great doors, the present somewhat gloomy area +would have been bright and pleasant as a real +grove, with its bubbling fountains, and the soothing +sound of trickling streams. I take the present skylights +to be of modern construction, as I never saw +such a device in a Moorish building.</p> +<p> +Most of the marble columns are the remains of +earlier erections, chiefly Roman, like the bridge over +the Guadalquivir close by, restored by the builder +of the mosque. Some, indeed, came from Constantinople, +and others were brought from the south +of France. They are neither uniform in height nor +girth—some having been pieced at the bottom, and +others partly buried;—so also with the capitals, +certain of which are evidently from the same source +as the pillars, while the remainder are but rude +imitations, mostly Corinthian in style. The original +expenses of the building were furnished by a fifth of +the booty taken from the Spaniards, with the subsidies +raised in Catalonia and Narbonne. The<a name="page341" id="page341"></a><span class="left">[page 341]</span> +Moors supplied voluntary, and European captives +forced labour.</p> + +<br /><a name="cordova" id="cordova"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/340.jpg"><img src="images/340-346.jpg" width="346" height="430" alt="A SHRINE IN CORDOVA MOSQUE." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<br /> +<b>A SHRINE IN CORDOVA MOSQUE.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +On Fridays, when the Faithful met in thousands +for the noon-day prayer, what a sight and what a +melody! The deep, rich tones of the organ may +add impressiveness to a service of worship, but there +is nothing in the world so grand, so awe-inspiring +as the human voice. When a vast body of males +repeats the formulæ of praise, together, but just +slightly out of time, the effect once heard is never +forgotten. I have heard it often, and as I walk +these aisles I hear it ringing in my ears, and can +picture to myself a close-packed row of white-robed +figures between each pillar, and rows from end to +end between, all standing, stooping, or forehead on +earth, as they follow the motions of the leader before +them. A grand sight it is, whatever may be one's +opinion of their religion. In the manner they sit +on the matted floors of their mosques there would +be room here for thirteen thousand without using +the Orange Court, and there is little doubt that on +days when the Court attended it used to be filled to +its utmost.</p> +<p> +To the south end of the cathedral the floor of +two wide aisles is raised on arches, exactly opposite +the niche which marks the direction of Mekka, and +the space above is more richly decorated than any +other portion of the edifice except the niche itself. +This doubtless formed the spot reserved for the +Ameer and his Court, screened off on three sides +to prevent the curiosity of the worshippers overcoming +their devotion, as is still arranged in +the mosques which the Sultan of Morocco attends +in his capitals. Until a few years ago this rich<a name="page342" id="page342"></a><span class="left">[page 342]</span> +work in arabesque and tiles was hidden by +plaster.</p> +<p> +The kiblah niche is a gem of its kind. It +consists of a horse-shoe arch, the face of which +is ornamented with gilded glass mosaic, forming the +entrance to a semi-circular recess beautifully adorned +with arabesques and inscriptions, the top of the +dome being a large white marble slab hollowed out +in the form of a pecten shell. The wall over the +entrance is covered with texts from the Korán, +forming an elegant design, and on either side are +niches of lesser merit, but serving to set off the +central one which formed the kiblah. Eleven +centuries have elapsed since the hands of the +workmen left it, and still it stands a witness of +the pitch of art attained by the Berbers in Spain.</p> +<p> +It is said that here was deposited a copy of the +Korán written by Othmán himself, and stained with +his blood, of such a size that two men could +hardly lift it. When, for a brief period, the town +fell into the hands of Alfonso VII., his soldiers used +the mosque as a stable, and tore up this valuable +manuscript. When a Moorish Embassy was sent +to Madrid some years ago, the members paid a +visit to this relic of the greatness of their forefathers, +and to the astonishment of the custodians, +having returned to the court-yard to perform the +required ablutions, re-entered, slippers in hand, to +go through the acts of worship as naturally as +if at home. What a strange sight for a Christian +cathedral! Right in front of the niche is a plain +marble tomb with no sign but a plain bar dexter. +Evidently supposing this to be the resting-place of +some saint of their own persuasion, they made the<a name="page343" id="page343"></a><span class="left">[page 343]</span> +customary number of revolutions around it. It would +be interesting to learn from their lips what their +impressions were.</p> +<p> +Of the tower which once added to the imposing +appearance of the building, it is recorded that it had +no rival in height known to the builders. It was of +stone, and, like one still standing in Baghdád from +the days of Harûn el Rasheed, had two ways to the +top, winding one above the other, so that those +who ascended by the one never met those descending +by the other. According to custom it was +crowned by three gilded balls, and it had fourteen +windows. This was of considerably later date than +the mosque itself, but has long been a thing of +the past.</p> +<p> +The European additions to the Córdova mosque +are the choir, high altar, etc., which by themselves +would make a fine church, occupying what must +have been originally a charming court, paved with +white marble and enlivened by fountains; the +tower, built over the main entrance, opening into +the Court of Oranges; and a score or two of +shrines with iron railings in front round the sides, +containing altars, images, and other fantastic baubles +to awe the ignorant. An inscription in the tower +records that it was nearly destroyed by the earth-quake +of 1755, and though it is the least objectionable +addition, it is a pity that it did not fall on that +or some subsequent occasion. It was raised on +the ruins of its Moorish predecessor in 1593. The +chief entrance, like that of Sevílle, is a curious +attempt to blend Roman architecture with Mauresque, +having been restored in 1377, but the result +is not bad. Recent "restorations" are observable<a name="page344" id="page344"></a><span class="left">[page 344]</span> +in some parts of the mosque, hideous with colour, +but a few of the original beams are still visible. +I am inclined to consider the greater part of the +roof modern, but could not inspect it closely enough +to be certain. Though vaulted inside, it is tiled +in ridges in the usual Moorish style, but very few +green tiles are to be seen.</p> +<p> +From the tower the view reminds one strongly +of Morocco. The hills to the north and south, +with the river winding close to the town across the +fertile plain, give the scene a striking resemblance +to that from the tower of the Spanish consulate +at Tetuan. All around are the still tortuous streets +of a Moorish town, though the roofs of the houses +are tiled in ridges of Moorish pattern, as those +of Tangier were when occupied by the English +two hundred years ago, and as those of El K'sar +are now.</p> +<p> +The otherwise Moorish-looking building at one's +feet is marred by the unsightly erection in the +centre, and its court-yard seems to have degenerated +into a play-ground, where the neighbours saunter +or fill pitchers from the fountains.</p> +<p> +After enduring the apparently unceasing din +of the bells in those erstwhile stations of the muédhdhin, +one ceases to wonder that the lazy Moors +have such a detestation for them, and make use +instead of the stirring tones of the human voice. +Rest and quiet seem impossible in their vicinity, +for their jarring is simply head-splitting. And as +if they were not excruciating enough, during "Holy +Week" they conspire against the ear-drums of +their victims by revolving a sort of infernal machine +made of wood in the form of a hollow cross, with<a name="page345" id="page345"></a><span class="left">[page 345]</span> +four swinging hammers on each arm which strike +against iron plates as the thing goes round. The +keeper's remark that the noise was awful was +superfluous.</p> +<p> +The history of the town of Córdova has been +as chequered as that of most Andalucian cities. +Its foundation is shrouded in obscurity. The +Romans and Vandals had in turn been its masters +before the Moors wrested it from the Spaniards +in the year 710 <span class="sc">a.d.</span> Though the Spaniards regained +possession of it in 1075, it was not for long, +as it soon fell into the hands of the invaders once +more. The Spanish victors only left a Moorish +viceroy in charge, who proved too true a Berber +to serve against his countrymen, so he betrayed +his trust. In 1236 it was finally recovered by the +Spaniards, after five hundred and twenty-four years +of Moorish rule. Since that time the traces of that +epoch of its history have been gradually disappearing, +till there only remain the mutilated mosque, and +portions of the ancient palace, or of saint-houses +(as the side-chapel of the Church of St. Miguel), +and of a few dwellings. Since the first train +steamed to this ancient city, in 1859, the railway +has probably brought as many pilgrims to the +mosque as ever visited it from other motives in its +greatest days.</p> +<p> +The industry founded here by the Moors—that +of tanning—which has given its name to a trade +in several countries,<a name="XXXV2r" id="XXXV2r"></a><a href="#XXXV2"><sup>*</sup></a> seems to have gone with +them to Morocco, for though many of the old +tan-pits still exist by the river side, no leather of +any repute is now produced here. The Moorish<a name="page346" id="page346"></a><span class="left">[page 346]</span> +water-mills are yet at work though, having been +repaired and renewed on the original model. These, +as at Granáda and other places, are horizontal wheels +worked from a small spout above, directly under +the mill-stone, such as is met with in Fez and +Tetuan.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXXV2" id="XXXV2"></a> +<a href="#XXXV2r">*</a> Sp. <i>cordován</i>, Fr. <i>cordonnier</i>, Eng. <i>cordwainer</i>, etc.</p> + +<br /> + +<h4>III. <span class="sc">Sevílle</span></h4> + +<p> +In the Girálda tower of Sevílle I expected to +find a veritable Moorish trophy in the best state of +preservation, open to that minute inspection which +was impossible in the only complete specimen of +such a tower, the Kutûbîya, part of a mosque still +in use. Imagine, then, my regret on arriving at the +foot of that venerable monument, to find it "spick +and span," as if just completed, looking new and +tawdry by the side of the cathedral which has +replaced the mosque it once adorned. Instead of +the hoary antiquity to which the rich deep colour +of the stone of the sister towers in Morocco bears +witness in their weather-beaten glory, this one, +built, above the first few stone courses, of inch +pan-tiles, separated by a like thickness of mortar, +has the appearance of having been newly pointed +and rubbed down, while faded frescoes on the walls +testify to the barbarity of the conquerors of the +"barbarians."</p> +<p> +The delicate tracery in hewn stone which adds +so greatly to the beauty of the Morocco and +Tlemçen examples, is almost entirely lacking, while +the once tasteful horse-shoe windows are now +pricked out in red and yellow, with a hideous +modern balcony of white stone before each. The<a name="page347" id="page347"></a><span class="left">[page 347]</span> +quasi-Moorish belfry is the most pardonable addition, +but to crown all is an exhibition of incongruity +which has no excuse. The original tile-faced turret +of the Moors, with its gilded balls, has actually been +replaced by a structure of several storeys, the first +of which is Doric, the second Ionic, and the third +Corinthian. Imagine this crowning the comely +severity of the solid Moorish structure without a +projecting ornament! But this is not all. Swinging +in gaunt uneasiness over the whole, stands a +huge revolving statue, supposed to represent Faith, +holding out in one hand a shield which catches the +wind, and causes it to act as a weather-vane.</p> +<p> +Such is the Girálda of the twentieth century, +and the guide-books are full of praises for the +restorer, who doubtless deserves great credit for +his skill in repairing the tower after it had suffered +severely from lightning, but who might have done +more towards restoring the original design, at all +events in the original portion. We read in "Raôd +el Kártás" that the mosque was finished and the +tower commenced in 1197, during the reign of +Mulai Yakûb el Mansûr, who commenced its sisters +at Marrákesh and Rabat in the same year. One +architect is recorded to have designed all three—indeed, +they have little uncommon in their design, +and have been once almost alike. Some assert +that this man was a Christian, but there is nothing +in the style of building to favour such a supposition.</p> +<p> +The plan is that of all the mosque towers of +Morocco, and the only tower of a mosque in actual +use which I have ascended in that country—one +at Mogador—was just a miniature of this. It is, +therefore, in little else than point of size that these<a name="page348" id="page348"></a><span class="left">[page 348]</span> +three are remarkable. The similarity between these +and the recently fallen tower of St. Mark's at Venice +is most striking, both in design and in the method +of ascent by an inclined plane; while around the +Italian lakes are to be seen others of less size, but +strongly resembling these.</p> +<p> +All three are square, and consist of six to eight +storeys in the centre, with thick walls and vaulted +roof, surrounded by an inclined plane from base to +summit, at an angle which makes it easy walking, +and horses have been ridden up. The unfinished +Hassan Tower at Rabat having at one time become +a place of evil resort, the reigning ameer ordered +the way up to be destroyed, but it was found so +hard that only the first round was cut away, and +the door bricked up. Each ramp of the Girálda, +if I remember rightly, has its window, but in the +Hassan many are without light, though at least +every alternate one has a window, some of these +being placed at the corner to serve for two, while +here they are always in the centre. The Girálda +proper contains seven of these storeys, with thirty-five +ramps. To the top of the eighth storey, which +is the first addition, dating from the sixteenth +century, now used as a belfry, the height is about +220 feet. The present total height is a little over +300 feet.</p> +<p> +The original turret of the Girálda, similar to +that at Marrákesh, was destroyed in 1396 by a +hurricane. The additions were finished in 1598. +An old view, still in existence, and dating from the +thirteenth century, shows it in its pristine glory, +and there is another—Moorish—as old as the +tower itself.</p> + +<a name="page349" id="page349"></a><span class="left">[page 349]</span> +<p> +After all that I had read and heard of the +palace at Sevílle, I was more disappointed than +even in the case of the Girálda. Not only does +it present nothing imposing in the way of Moorish +architecture, but it has evidently been so much +altered by subsequent occupants as to have lost +much of its original charm. To begin with the +outside, instead of wearing the fine crumbling +appearance of the palaces of Morocco or Granáda, +this also had been all newly plastered till it looks +like a work of yesterday, and coloured a not unbecoming +red. Even the main entrance has a +Gothic inscription half way up, and though its +general aspect is that of Moorish work, on a +closer inspection, the lower part at least is seen to +be an imitation, as in many ways the unwritten +laws of that style have been widely departed from. +The Gothic inscription states that Don Pedro I. +built it in 1364.</p> +<p> +Inside, the general ground plan remains much +as built, but connecting doorways have been opened +where Moors never put them, and with the exception +of the big raised tank in the corner, there is nothing +African about the garden. Even the plan has been +in places destroyed to obtain rooms of a more suitable +width for the conveniences of European life. +The property is a portion of the Royal patrimony, +and is from time to time occupied by the reigning +sovereign when visiting Sevílle. A marble tablet +in one of these rooms tells of a queen having been +born there during the last century.</p> +<p> +Much of the ornamentation on the walls is of +course original, as well as some of the ceilings and +doors, but the "restorations" effected at various<a name="page350" id="page350"></a><span class="left">[page 350]</span> +epochs have greatly altered the face of things. +Gaudy colours show up both walls and ceilings, +but at the same time greatly detract from their +value, besides which there are coarse imitations of +the genuine tile-work, made in squares, with lines +in relief to represent the joints, as well as patterns +painted on the plaster to fill up gaps in the designs. +Then, too, the most prominent parts of the ornamentation +have been disfigured by the interposition +of Spanish shields and coats-of-arms on tiles. The +border round the top of the dado is alternated with +these all the way round some of the rooms. To +crown all, certain of the fine old doors, resembling +a wooden patchwork, have been "restored" with +plaster-of-Paris. Some of the arabesques which +now figure on these walls were actually pillaged +from the Alhambra.</p> +<p> +Many of the Arabic inscriptions have been +pieced so as to render them illegible, and some +have been replaced upside down, while others tell +their own tale, for they ascribe glory and might to +a Spanish sovereign, Don Pedro the Cruel, instead +of to a "Leader of the Faithful." A reference to +the history of the country tells us that this ruler +"reconstructed" the palace of the Moors, while +later it was repaired by Don Juan II., before +Ferdinand and Isabella built their oratories within +its precincts, or Charles V., with his mania for "improving" +these monuments of a foreign dominion, +doubled it in size. For six centuries this work, +literally of spoliation, has been proceeding in the +hands of successive owners; what other result than +that arrived at, could be hoped for?</p> +<p> +When this is realized, the greater portion of<a name="page351" id="page351"></a><span class="left">[page 351]</span> +the historic value of this palace vanishes, and its +original character as a Moorish palace is seen to +have almost disappeared. There still, however, +remains the indisputable fact, apparent from what +does remain of the work of its builders, that it was +always a work of art and a trophy of the skill of +its designers, those who have interfered with it +subsequently having far from improved it.</p> +<p> +According to Arab historians, the foundations +of this palace were laid in 1171 <span class="sc">a.d.</span> and it was +reconstructed between 1353 and 1364. In 1762 +a fire did considerable damage, which was not +repaired till 1805. The inscriptions are of no +great historical interest. "Wa lá ghálib ílá Allah"—"there +is none victorious but God"—abounds +here, as at the Alhambra, and there are some very +neat specimens of the Kufic character.</p> +<p> +Of Moorish Sevílle, apart from the Girálda +and the Palace—El Kasar, corrupted into Alcazar—the +only remains of importance are the Torre +del Oro—Borj ed-Daheb—built in 1220 at the +riverside, close to where the Moors had their bridge +of boats, and the towers of the churches of SS. +Marcos and Marina. Others there are, built in +imitation of the older erections, often by Moorish +architects, as those of the churches of Omnium +Sanctorum, San Nicolas, Ermita de la Virgen, and +Santa Catalina. Many private houses contain +arches, pillars, and other portions of Moorish +buildings which have preceded them, such as are +also to be found in almost every town of southern +Spain. As late as 1565 the town had thirteen +gates more or less of Moorish origin, but these +have all long since disappeared.</p> + +<a name="page352" id="page352"></a><span class="left">[page 352]</span> +<p> +Sevílle was one of the first cities to surrender +to the Moors after the battle of Guadalete, <span class="sc">a.d.</span> 711, +and remained in their hands till taken by St. +Ferdinand after fifteen months' siege in 1248, six +years after its inhabitants had thrown off their +allegiance to the Emperor of Morocco, and formed +themselves into a sort of republic, and ten years +after the Moorish Kingdom of Granáda was founded. +It then became the capital of Spain till Charles V. +removed the Court to Valladolid.</p> + +<br /> + +<h4>IV. <span class="sc">Granáda</span></h4> +<p> +"O Palace Red! From distant lands I have +come to see thee, believing thee to be a garden in +spring, but I have found thee as a tree in autumn. +I thought to see thee with my heart full of joy, but +instead my eyes have filled with tears."</p> +<p> +So wrote in the visitors' album of the Alhambra, +in 1876, an Arab poet in his native tongue, and +another inscription in the same volume, written by +a Moor some years before, remarks, "Peace be on +thee, O Granáda! We have seen thee and admired +thee, and have said, 'Praised be he who constructed +thee, and may they who destroyed thee receive +mercy.'"</p> +<p> +As the sentiments of members of the race of its +builders, these expressions are especially interesting; +but they can hardly fail to be shared to some extent +by visitors from eastern lands, of whatever nationality. +Although the loveliest monument of Moorish art in +Spain, and a specimen of their highest architectural +skill, destructions, mutilations, and restorations have<a name="page353" id="page353"></a><span class="left">[page 353]</span> +wrought so much damage to it that it now stands, +indeed, "as a tree in autumn." It was not those +who conquered the Moors on whom mercy was +implored by the writer quoted—for they, Ferdinand +and Isabella, did their best to preserve their trophy—but +on such of their successors as Charles V., +who actually planted a still unfinished palace right +among the buildings of this venerable spot, adjoining +the remains of the Alhambra, part of which it +has doubtless replaced.</p> +<p> +This unartistic Austrian styled these remains +"the ugly abominations of the Moors," and forthwith +proceeded to erect really ugly structures. But +the most unpardonable destroyers of all that the +Moors left beautiful were, perhaps, the French, +who in 1810 entered Granáda with hardly a blow, +and under Sebastian practically desolated the +palace. They turned it into barracks and storehouses, +as inscriptions on its walls still testify—notably +on the sills of the "Miranda de la Reina." +Ere they left in 1812, they even went so far as +to blow up eight of the towers, the remainder only +escaping through the negligence of an employee, and +the fuses were put out by an old Spanish soldier.</p> +<p> +The Spaniards having thus regained possession, +the commissioners appointed to look after it "sold +everything for themselves, and then, like good +patriots, reported that the invaders had left nothing." +After a brief respite in the care of an old woman, +who exhibited more sense in the matter than all +the generals who had perpetrated such outrages +upon it, the Alhambra was again desecrated by a +new Governor, who used it as a store of salt fish +for the galley slaves.</p> + +<a name="page354" id="page354"></a><span class="left">[page 354]</span> +<p> +While the old woman—Washington Irving's +"Tia Antonia"—was in possession, that famous +writer did more than any one to restore the ancient +fame of the palace by coming to stay there, and +writing his well-known account of his visit. Mr. +Forde, and his friend Mr. Addington, the British +Ambassador, helped to remind people of its existence, +and saved what was left. Subsequent civil +wars have, however, afforded fresh opportunities +of injury to its hoary walls, and to-day it stands a +mere wreck of what it once was.</p> +<p> +The name by which these buildings are now +known is but the adjective by which the Arabs +described it, "El Hamra," meaning "The Red," +because of its colour outside. When occupied it +was known only as either "The Palace of Granáda," +or "The Red Palace." The colour of the earth +here is precisely that of the plains of Dukála and +Marrákesh, and the buildings, being all constructed +of tabia, are naturally of that colour. In no part +of Spain could one so readily imagine one's self in +Morocco; indeed, it is hard to realize that one is +not there till the new European streets are reached. +In the palace grounds, apart from the fine carriage-drive, +with its seats and lamp-posts, when out of +sight of the big hotels and other modern erections, +the delusion is complete. Even in the town the +running water and the wayside fountains take one +back to Fez; and the channels underneath the +pavements with their plugs at intervals are only +Moorish ones repaired. On walking the crooked +streets of the part which formed the town of four +centuries ago, on every hand the names are Moorish. +Here is the Kaisarîya, restored after a fire in<a name="page355" id="page355"></a><span class="left">[page 355]</span> +1843; there is the street of the grain fandaks, and +beyond is a hammám, now a dwelling-house.</p> +<p> +The site of the chief mosque is now the cathedral, +in the chief chapel of which are buried the +conquerors of Granáda. There lie Ferdinand and +Isabella in plain iron-bound leaden coffins—far +from the least interesting sights of the place—in +a spot full of memories of that contest which +they considered the event of their lives, and which +was indeed of such vital importance to the country. +The inscription on their marble tomb in the church +above tells how that the Moors having been conquered +and heresy stamped out (?), that worthy +couple took their rest. The very atmosphere of +the place seems charged with reminiscences of the +Moors and their successful foes, and here the spirits +of Prescott and Gayangos, the historians, seem to +linger still.</p> +<p> +On either side of the high altar are extremely +interesting painted carvings. On one is figured the +delivering up of the Alhambra. Ferdinand, Isabella +and Mendoza ride in a line, and the latter +receives the key in his gloved hand as the conquered +king offers him the ring end, followed by a +long row of captives. Behind the victors ride their +knights and dames. On the other the Moors and +Mooresses are seen being christened wholesale by +the monks, their dresses being in some respects +remarkably correct in detail, but with glaring defects +in others, just what might be expected from one +whose acquaintance with them was recent but +brief.</p> +<p> +Before these carvings kneel real likenesses of +the royal couple in wood, and on the massive<a name="page356" id="page356"></a><span class="left">[page 356]</span> +square tomb in front they repose in alabaster. A +fellow-tomb by their side has been raised to the +memory of their immediate successors. In the +sacristry are to be seen the very robes of Cardinal +Mendoza, and his missal, with the sceptre and +jewel-case of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand, +while that of the conquered Bû Abd Allah is +on view elsewhere. Here, too, are the standards +unfurled on the day of the recapture, January 2, +1492, and a picture full of interest, recording the +adieux of "Boabdil" and Ferdinand, who, after +their bitter contest, have shaken hands and are +here falling on each other's necks.</p> +<p> +As a model of Moorish art, the palace of +Granáda, commenced in 1248, is a monument of +its latest and most refined period. The heavy and +comparatively simple styles of Córdova and Sevílle +are here amplified and refined, the result being the +acme of elegance and oriental taste. This I say +from personal acquaintance with the temples of the +far East, although those present a much more +gorgeous appearance, and are much more costly +erections, evincing a degree of architectural ability +and the possession of hoards of wealth beside +which what the builders of the Alhambra could +boast of was insignificant; nor do I attempt to compare +these interesting relics with the equally familiar +immensity of ancient masonry, or with the magnificent +work of the Middle Ages still existing in +Europe. These monuments hold a place of their +own, unique and unassailable. They are the +mementoes of an era in the history of Europe, not +only of the Peninsula, and the interest which +attaches itself to them even on this score alone<a name="page357" id="page357"></a><span class="left">[page 357]</span> +is very great. As relics on a foreign soil, they +have stood the storms of five centuries under the +most trying circumstances, and the simplicity of +their components lends an additional charm to the +fabric. They are to a great extent composed of +what are apparently the weakest materials—mud, +gypsum, and wood; the marble and tiles are but +adornments.</p> +<p> +From without the appearance of the palace has +been well described as that of "reddish cork models +rising out of a girdle of trees." On a closer inspection +the "cork" appears like red sandstone, and one +wonders how it has stood even one good storm. +There is none of that facing of stone which gives +most other styles of architecture an appearance of +durability, and whatever facing of plaster it may +once have possessed has long since disappeared. +But inside all is different. Instead of crumbling +red walls, the courts and apartments are highly +ornamented with what we now call plaster-of-Paris, +but which the Moors have long prepared by roasting +the gypsum in rude kilns, calling it "gibs."</p> +<p> +A full description of each room or court-yard +would better become a guide-book, and to those +who have the opportunity of visiting the spot, I +would recommend Ford's incomparable "Handbook +to Spain," published by Murray, the older +the edition the better. To those who can read +Spanish, the "Estudio descriptivo de los Monumentos +arabes," by the late Sr. Contreras (Government +restorer of the Moorish remains in Spain), to +be obtained in Granáda, is well worth reading. +Such information as a visitor would need to correct +the mistaken impressions of these and other writers<a name="page358" id="page358"></a><span class="left">[page 358]</span> +ignorant of Moorish usages as to the original +purpose of the various apartments, I have embodied +in Macmillan's "Guide to the Western +Mediterranean."</p> +<p> +Certain points, however, either for their architectural +merit or historic interest, cannot be passed +over. Such is the Court of the Lions, of part of +which a model disfigured by garish painting may be +seen at the Crystal Palace. In some points it is +resembled by the chief court of the mosque of the +Karûeeïn at Fez. In the centre is that strange +departure from the injunctions of the Korán which +has given its name to the spot, the alabaster fountain +resting on the loins of twelve beasts, called, by +courtesy, "lions." They remind one rather of cats. +"Their faces barbecued, and their manes cut like +the scales of a griffin, and the legs like bed-posts; a +water-pipe stuck in their mouths does not add to +their dignity." In the inscription round the basin +above, among flowery phrases belauding the +fountain, and suggesting that the work is so fine +that it is difficult to distinguish the water from the +alabaster, the spectator is comforted with the +assurance that they cannot bite!</p> +<p> +The court is surrounded by the usual tiled +verandah, supported by one hundred and twenty-two +light and elegant white marble pillars, the arches +between which show some eleven different forms. +At each end is a portico jutting out from the +verandahs, and four cupolas add to the appearance +of the roofs. The length of the court is twice its +width, which is sixty feet, and on each side lies a +beautiful decorated apartment with the unusual +additions of jets of water from the floor in the<a name="page359" id="page359"></a><span class="left">[page 359]</span> +centre of each, as also before each of the three doors +apiece of the long narrow Moorish rooms, and under +the two porticoes. The overflows, instead of being +hidden pipes, are channels in the marble pavement, +for the Moors were too great lovers of rippling +water to lose the opportunity as we cold-blooded +northerners would.</p> +<p> +To fully realize the delights of such a place one +must imagine it carpeted with the products of Rabat, +surrounded by soft mattresses piled with cushions, +and with its walls hung with a dado of dark-coloured +felt cloths of various colours, interworked to represent +pillars and arches such as surround the gallery, and +showing up the beautiful white of the marble by contrast. +Thus furnished—in true Moorish style—the +place should be visited on a hot summer's day, after +a wearisome toil up the hill from the town. Then, +lolling among the cushions, and listening to the +splashing water, if strong sympathy is not felt +with the builders of the palace, who thought it a +paradise, the visitor ought never to have left his +armchair by the fire-side at home.</p> +<p> +If, instead of wasting money on re-plastering the +walls until they look ready for papering, and then +scratching geometrical designs upon them in a style +no Moor ever dreamed of, the Spanish Government +would entrust a Moor of taste to decorate it in his own +native style, without the modern European additions, +they would do far better and spend less. One step +further, and the introduction of Moorish guides and +caretakers who spoke Spanish—easy to obtain—would +add fifty per cent. to the interest of the place. +Then fancy the Christian and Muslim knights meeting +in single combat on the plains beneath those<a name="page360" id="page360"></a><span class="left">[page 360]</span> +walls. People once more the knolls and pastures +with the turban and the helm, fill in the colours +of robe and plume; oh, what a picture it would +make!</p> +<p> +Doubtless similar apartments for the hareem +exist in the recesses of the palaces of Fez, Mequinez, +Marrákesh and Rabat. Some very fine +work is to be seen in the comparatively public +parts, in many respects equalling this, and certainly +better than that of the palace of Sevílle. Various +alterations and "restorations" have been effected +from time to time in this as in other parts of the +palace, notably in the fountain, the top part of +which is modern. It is probable that originally +there was only one basin, resting immediately on +the "lions" below. Its date is given as 1477 <span class="sc">a.d.</span></p> +<p> +The room known for disputed reasons as the +Hall of the Two Sisters was originally a bedroom. +The entrance is one of the most elaborate in the +palace, and its wooden ceiling, pieced to resemble +stalactites, is a charming piece of work, as also are +those of the other important rooms of the palace.</p> +<p> +Another apartment opening out of the Court of +Lions, known as the Hall of Justice—most likely in +error—contains one of the most curious remains in +the palace, another departure from the precepts of +the religion professed by its builders. This is no +less than a series of pictures painted on skins sewn +together, glued and fastened to the wooden dome +with tinned tacks, and covered with a fine coating +of gypsum, the gilt parts being in relief. Though +the date of their execution must have been in the +fourteenth century, the colours are still clear and +fresh. The picture in the centre of the three domes<a name="page361" id="page361"></a><span class="left">[page 361]</span> +is supposed by some to represent ten Moorish kings +of Granáda, though it is more likely meant for ten +wise men in council. On the other two ceilings are +pictures, one of a lady holding a chained lion, on the +point of being delivered from a man in skins by a +European, who is afterwards slain by a mounted +Moor. The other is of a boar-hunt and people drinking +at a fountain, with a man up a tree in a dress +which looks remarkably like that of the eighteenth +century in England, wig and all. This work must +have been that of some Christian renegade, though +considerable discussion has taken place over the +authorship. It is most likely that the lions are of +similar origin, sculptured by some one who had but +a remote idea of the king of the forest.</p> +<p> +After the group of apartments surrounding the +Court of the Lions, the most valuable specimen of +Moorish architecture is that known as the Hall of +the Ambassadors, probably once devoted to official +interviews, as its name denotes. This is the largest +room in the palace, occupying the upper floor in one +of the massive towers which defended the citadel, +overlooking the Vega and the remains of the camp-town +of Santa Fé, built during the siege by the +"Catholic Kings." The thickness of its walls is +therefore immense, and the windows look like little +tunnels; under it are dungeons. The hall is thirty-seven +feet square, and no less than seventy-five feet +high in the centre of the roof, which is not the +original one. Some of the finest stucco wall decoration +in the place is to be seen here, with elegant +Arabic inscriptions, in the ancient style of ornamental +writing known as Kufic, most of the instances of the +latter meaning, "O God, to Thee be endless praise,<a name="page362" id="page362"></a><span class="left">[page 362]</span> +and thanks ascending." Over the windows are +lines in cursive Arabic, ascribing victory and glory +to the "leader of the resigned, our lord the father of +the pilgrims" (Yûsef I.), with a prayer for his welfare, +while everywhere is to be seen here, as in other +parts, the motto, "and there is none victorious but +God."</p> +<p> +Between the two blocks already described lie +the baths, the undressing-room of which has been +very creditably restored by the late Sr. Contreras, +and looks splendid. It is, in fact, a covered patio +with the gallery of the next floor running round, and +as no cloth hangings or carpets could be used here, +the walls and floor are fully decorated with stucco +and tiles. The inner rooms are now in fair condition, +and are fitted with marble, though the boiler +and pipes were sold long ago by a former "keeper" +of the palace. The general arrangement is just the +same as that of the baths in Morocco.</p> +<p> +One room of the palace was fitted up by Ferdinand +and Isabella as a chapel, the gilt ornaments of +which look very gaudy by the side of the original +Moorish work. Opening out of this is a little gem +of a mosque, doubtless intended for the royal devotions +alone, as it is too small for a company.</p> +<p> +Surrounding the palace proper are several other +buildings forming part of the Alhambra, which must +not be overlooked. Among them are the two +towers of the Princesses and the Captives, both of +which have been ably repaired. In the latter are +to be seen tiles of a peculiar rosy tint, not met with +elsewhere. In the Dar Aïshah ("Gabinete de +Lindaraxa"—"x" pronounced as "sh") are excellent +specimens of those with a metallic hue, resembling<a name="page363" id="page363"></a><span class="left">[page 363]</span> +the colours on the surface of tar-water. Ford points +out that it was only in these tiles that the Moors +employed any but the primary colours, with gold for +yellow. This is evident, and holds good to the +present day. Both these towers give a perfect +idea of a Moorish house of the better class in +miniature. Outside the walls are of the rough red of +the mud concrete, while inside they are nearly all +white, and beautifully decorated. The thickness of +the walls keeps them delightfully cool, and the +crooked passages render the courts in the centre +quite private.</p> +<p> +Of the other towers and gates, the only notable +one is that of Justice, a genuine Moorish erection +with a turning under it to stay the onrush of an +enemy, and render it easier of defence. The hand +carved on the outer arch and the key on the inner +one have given rise to many explanations, but their +only significance was probably that this gate was +the key of the castle, while the hand was to protect +the key from the effects of the evil eye. This +superstition is still popular, and its practice is to be +seen to-day on thousands of doors in Morocco, in +rudely painted hands on the doorposts.</p> +<p> +The Watch Tower (de la Vela) is chiefly noteworthy +as one of the points from which the Spanish +flag was unfurled on the memorable day of the +entry into Granáda. The anniversary of that date, +January 2nd, is a high time for the young ladies, +who flock here to toll the bell in the hopes of being +provided with a husband during the new-begun +year.</p> +<p> +At a short distance from the Alhambra itself is +a group known as the Torres Bermejas (Vermilion<a name="page364" id="page364"></a><span class="left">[page 364]</span> +Towers), probably the most ancient of the Moorish +reign, if part did not exist before their settlement +here, but they present no remarkable architectural +features.</p> +<p> +Across a little valley is the Generalife, a charming +summer residence built about 1320, styled by its +builder the "Paradise of the Wise,"—Jinah el Arîf—which +the Spaniards have corrupted to its present +designation, pronouncing it Kheneraliffy. Truly +this is a spot after the Moor's own heart: a +luxuriant garden with plenty of dark greens against +white walls and pale-blue trellis-work, harmonious +at every turn with the rippling and splashing of +nature's choicest liquid. Of architectural beauty the +buildings in this garden have but little, yet as specimens +of Moorish style—though they have suffered +with the rest—they form a complement to the Alhambra. +That is the typical fortress-palace, the abode +of a martial Court; this is the pleasant resting-place, +the cool retreat for love and luxury. Nature is here +predominant, and Art has but a secondary place, for +once retaining her true position as great Nature's +handmaid. Light arched porticoes and rooms +behind serve but as shelter from the noonday glare, +while roomy turrets treat the occupier to delightful +views. Superfluous ornament within is not allowed +to interfere with the contemplation of beauty +without.</p> +<p> +Between the lower and upper terrace is a remarkable +arrangement of steps, a Moorish ideal, for +at equal distances from top to bottom, between each +flight, are fountains playing in the centre, round +which one must walk, while a stream runs down the +top of each side wall in a channel made of tiles.<a name="page365" id="page365"></a><span class="left">[page 365]</span> +What a pleasant sight and sound to those to whom +stair climbing in a broiling sun is too much exercise! +The cypresses in the garden are very fine, but they +give none too much shade. The present owner's +agent has Bû Abd Allah's sword on view at his +house in the town, and this is a gem worth asking +to see when a ticket is obtained for the Generalife. +It is of a totally different pattern and style of ornament +from the modern Moorish weapons, being +inlaid in a very clever and tasteful manner.</p> +<p> +To the antiquary the most interesting part of +Granáda is the Albaycin, the quarter lying highest +up the valley of the Darro, originally peopled by +refugees from the town of Baeza—away to the +north, beyond Jaen—the Baïseeïn. As the last +stronghold of Moorish rule in the Peninsula, when +one by one the other cities, once its rivals, fell into +the hands of the Christians again, Granáda became +a centre of refuge from all parts, and to this owed +much of its ultimate importance.</p> +<p> +Unfortunately no attempt has been made to preserve +the many relics of that time which still exist +in this quarter, probably the worst in the town. +Many owners of property in the neighbourhood can +still display the original Arabic title deeds, their +estates having been purchased by Spanish grandees +from the expelled Moors, or later from the expelled +Jews. A morning's tour will reveal much of +interest in back alleys and ruined courts. One +visitor alone is hardly safe among the wild half-gipsy +lot who dwell there now, but a few copper +coins are all the keys needed to gain admission +to some fine old patios with marble columns, +crumbling fandaks, and ruined baths. By the<a name="page366" id="page366"></a><span class="left">[page 366]</span> +roadside may be seen the identical style of water-mill +still used in Morocco, and the presence of the +Spaniard seems a dream.</p> + +<br /> + +<h4>V. <span class="sc">Hither and Thither</span></h4> + +<p> +Having now made pilgrimages to the more +famous homes of the Moor in Europe, let us in +fancy take an aërial flight over sunny Spain, and +glance here and there at the scattered traces of +Muslim rule in less noted quarters. Everything +we cannot hope to spy, but we may still surprise +ourselves and others by the number of our finds. +Even this task accomplished, a volume on the subject +might well be written by a second Borrow or a +Ford, whose residence among the modern Moors +had sharpened his scent for relics of that ilk.<a name="XXXV3r" id="XXXV3r"></a><a href="#XXXV3"><sup>*</sup></a> Let +not the reader think that with these wayside jottings +all has been disclosed, for the Moor yet lives +in Spain, and there is far more truth in the saying +that "Barbary begins at the Pyrenees" than is +generally imagined.</p> +<p> +We will start from Tarifa, perhaps the most +ancient town of Andalucia. The Moors named +this ancient Punic city after T'arîf ibn Málek ("The +Wise, son of King"), a Berber chief. They beleaguered +it about 1292, and it is still enclosed +by Moorish walls. The citadel, a genuine Moorish +castle, lies just within these walls, and was not so +long ago the abode of galley-slaves. Close to +Sevílle, where the river Guadalquivir branches off,<a name="page367" id="page367"></a><span class="left">[page 367]</span> +it forms two islands—Islas Mayor y Menor. The +former was the Kaptal of the Moors. At Coria +the river winds under the Moorish "Castle of the +Cleft" (El Faraj), now called St. Juan de Alfarache, +and passes near the Torre del Oro, a monument +of the invader already referred to. Old Xeres, of +sherry fame, is a straggling, ill-built, ill-drained +Moorish city. It was taken from the Moors in +1264. Part of the original walls and gates remain +in the old town. The Moorish citadel is well preserved, +and offers a good specimen of those turreted +and walled palatial fortresses.</p> +<p> +But it is not till we reach Sevílle that we come +to a museum of Moorish antiquities. Here we see +Arabesque ceilings, marqueterie woodwork, stucco +panelling, and the elegant horse-shoe arches. There +are beautiful specimens in the citadel, in Calle +Pajaritos No. 15, in the Casa Prieto and elsewhere. +The Moors possessed the city for five hundred +years, during which time they entirely rebuilt it, +using the Roman buildings as materials. Many +Moorish houses still exist, the windows of which +are barricaded with iron gratings. On each side +of the patios, or courts, are corridors supported by +marble pillars, whilst a fountain plays in the centre. +These houses are rich in Moorish porcelain tilings, +called azulejos—from the Arabic ez-zulaïj—but the +best of these are in the patio of the citadel. Carmona +is not far off, with its oriental walls and +castle, famous as ever for its grateful springs. The +tower of San Pedro transports us again to Tangier, +as do the massy walls and arched gate.</p> +<p> +Some eight leagues on the way to Badajos from +Sevílle rises a Moorish tower, giving to the adjoining<a name="page368" id="page368"></a><span class="left">[page 368]</span> +village the name of Castillo de las Guardias. +Five leagues beyond are the mines of the "Inky +River"—Rio Tinto—a name sufficiently expressive +and appropriate, for it issues from the mountain-side +impregnated with copper, and is consequently +corrosive. The Moors seem to have followed the +Romans in their workings on the north side of the +hill. Further on are more mines, still proclaiming +the use the Moors made of them by their present +name Almádin—"the Mine"—a name which has +almost become Spanish; it is still so generally used. +Five leagues from Rio Tinto, at Aracena, is another +Moorish castle, commanding a fine panorama, and +the belfry of the church hard by is Arabesque.</p> +<p> +Many more of these ruined kasbahs are to be +seen upon the heights of Andalucia, and even +much further north; but the majority must go unmentioned. +One, in an equally fine position, is to +be seen eleven leagues along the road from Sevílle +to Badajos, above Santa Olalla—a name essentially +Moorish, denoting the resting-place of some female +Mohammedan saint, whose name has been lost sight +of. (Lallah, or "Lady," is the term always prefixed +to the names of canonized ladies in Morocco.) +Three leagues from Sevílle on the Granáda road, +at Gandul, lies another of these castles, picturesquely +situated amid palms and orange groves; four +leagues beyond, the name Arahal (er-rahálah—"the +day's journey") reminds the Arabicist that it is +time to encamp; a dozen leagues further on the +name of Roda recalls its origin, raôdah, "the cemetery." +Riding into Jaen on the top of the diligence +from Granáda, I was struck with the familiar +appearance of two brown tabia fortresses above the<a name="page369" id="page369"></a><span class="left">[page 369]</span> +town, giving the hillside the appearance of one of +the lower slopes of the Atlas. This was a place +after the Moors' own heart, for abundant springs +gush everywhere from the rocks. In their days it +was for a time the capital of an independent +kingdom.</p> +<p> +At Ronda, a town originally built by the Moors—for +Old Ronda is two leagues away to the north,—their +once extensive remains have been all but +destroyed. Its tortuous streets and small houses, +however, testify as to its origin, and its Moorish castle +still appears to guard the narrow ascent by which +alone it can be reached from the land, for it crowns a +river-girt rock. Down below, this river, the Guadalvin, +still turns the same rude class of corn-mills that +we have seen at Fez and Granáda. Other remnants +are another Moorish tower in the Calle del +Puente Viejo, and the "House of the Moorish +King" in Calle San Pedro, dating from about 1042. +Descending to the river's edge by a flight of stairs +cut in the solid rock, there is a grotto dug by +Christian slaves three centuries later. Some five +leagues on the road thence to Granáda are the +remains of the ancient Teba, at the siege of +which in 1328, when it was taken from the Moors, +Lord James Douglas fought in obedience to the +dying wish of the Bruce his master, whose heart +he wore in a silver case hung from his neck, +throwing it among the enemy as he rushed in +and fell.</p> +<p> +On the way from Ronda to Gibraltar are a +number of villages whose Arab names are startling +even in this land of Ishmaelitish memories. Among +these are Atajate, Gaucin, Benahali, Benarraba,<a name="page370" id="page370"></a><span class="left">[page 370]</span> +Benadalid, Benalaurin. At Gaucin an excellent view +of Gibraltar and Jibel Mûsa is obtainable from its +Moorish citadel. This brings us to old "Gib," whose +relics of Tárîk and his successors are much better +known to travellers than most of those minor remains. +An inscription over the gate of the castle, now a +prison, tells of its erection over eleven centuries ago, +for this was naturally one of the early captures of +the invaders. Yet the mud-concrete walls stand firm +and sound, though scarred by many a shot. Algeciras—El +Jazîrah—"the Island" has passed through +too many vicissitudes to have much more than the +name left.</p> +<p> +Malaga, though seldom heard of in connection +with the history of Mohammedan rule in the Peninsula, +played a considerable part in that drama. It +and Cadiz date far back to the time of the Carthaginians, +so that, after all, their origin is African. +If its name is not of an earlier origin, it may be from +Málekah, "the Queen." Every year on August 18, +at 3 p.m. the great bell of the cathedral is struck +thrice, for that is the anniversary of its recovery +from the Aliens in 1487. The flag of Ferdinand +then hoisted is (or was recently) still to be seen, +together with a Moorish one, probably that of the +vanquished city, over the tomb of the Conde de +Buena Vista in the convent of La Victoria. Though +odd bits of Moorish architecture may still be met +with in places, the only remains of note are the +castle, built in 1279, with its fine horse-shoe gate—sadly +disfigured by modern barbarism—and what +was the dockyard of the Moors, now left high and +dry by the receding sea.</p> +<p> +The name Alhama, met with in several parts of<a name="page371" id="page371"></a><span class="left">[page 371]</span> +Spain, merely denotes "the hot," alluding to springs +of that character which are in most instances still +active. This is the case at the Alhama between +Malaga and Granáda, where the baths are worth +a visit. The Moorish bath is called the strong +one, being nearer the spring.</p> +<p> +At Antequera the castle is Moorish, though +built on Roman foundations, and it is only of recent +years that the mosque has disappeared under the +"protection" of an impecunious governor.</p> +<p> +Leaving the much-sung Andalûs, the first name +striking us in Murcia is that of Guadíx (pronounced +Wadish), a corruption of Wád Aïsh, "River of Life." +Its Moorish castle still stands. Some ten leagues +further on, at Cullar de Baza is another Moorish +ruin, and the next of note, a fine specimen, is fifteen +leagues away at Lorca, whose streets are in the +genuine intricate style. The city of Murcia, though +founded by the Moors, contains little calling them +to remembrance. In the post-office and prison, +however, and in the public granary, mementoes are +to be found.</p> +<p> +Orihuela, on the road from Carthagena to +Alicante, still looks oriental with its palm-trees, +square towers and domes, and Elche is just another +such, with flat roofs and the orthodox kasbah, now +a prison. The enormous number of palms which +surround the town recall Marrákesh, but they are +sadly neglected. Monte Alegre is a small place +with a ruined Moorish castle, about fifteen leagues +from Elche on the road to Madrid. Between +Alicante and Xativa is the Moorish castle of Tibi, +close to a large reservoir, and there is a square +Moorish tower at Concentaina. Xativa has a<a name="page372" id="page372"></a><span class="left">[page 372]</span> +hermitage, San Felin, adorned with horse-shoe +arches, having a Moorish cistern hard by.</p> +<p> +Valencia the Moors considered a Paradise, and +their skill in irrigation has been retained, so that of +the Guadalaviar (Wad el Abîad—"River of the +Whites") the fullest use is made in agriculture, and +the familiar water-wheels and conduits go by the +corruptions of their Arabic names, naôrahs and +sakkáïahs. The city itself is very Moorish in +appearance, with its narrow tortuous streets and +gloomy buildings, but I know of no remarkable +legacy of the Moors there. There are the remains +of a Moorish aqueduct at Chestalgár—a very Arabic +sounding name, of which the last two syllables are +corrupted from El Ghárb ("the West") as in the +case of Trafalgár (Terf el Ghárb—"West Point"). +All this district was inhabited by the Moriscos or +Christianized Moors as late as the beginning of +the seventeenth century, and there must their descendants +live still, although no longer distinguished +from true sons of the soil.</p> +<p> +Whatever may remain of the ancient Saguntum, +what is visible is mostly Moorish, as, for instance, +cisterns on the site of a Roman temple. Not far +from Valencia is Burjasot, where are yet to be seen +specimens of matmôrahs or underground granaries. +Morella is a scrambling town with Moorish walls +and towers, coroneted by a castle.</p> +<p> +Entering Catalonia, Tortosa, at the mouth of +the Ebro, is reached, once a stronghold of the +Moors, and a nest of pirates till recovered by +Templars, Pisans and Genoese together. It was +only withheld from the Moors next year by the +valour of the women besieged. The tower of the<a name="page373" id="page373"></a><span class="left">[page 373]</span> +cathedral still bears the title of Almudena, a reminder +of the muédhdhin who once summoned +Muslims to prayer from its summit. Here, too, are +sundry remnants of Moorish masonry, and some +ancient matmôrahs.</p> +<p> +Tarragona and Barcelona, if containing no +Moorish ruins of note, have all, in common with +other neighbouring places, retained the Arabic name +Rambla (rimlah, "sand") for the quondam sandy +river beds which of late years have been transformed +into fashionable promenades. In the cathedral of +Tarragona an elegant Moorish arch is noticeable, +with a Kufic inscription giving the date as 960 <span class="sc">a.d.</span> +For four centuries after this city was destroyed by +Tarîf it remained unoccupied, so that much cannot +be expected to call to mind his dynasty. Of a +bridge at Martorell over the Llobregat, Ford says +it is "attributed to Hannibal by the learned, and to +the devil, as usual, by the vulgar. The pointed +centre arch, which is very steep and narrow to pass, +is 133 feet wide in the span, and is unquestionably +a work of the Moors." Not far away is a place +whose name, Mequineza, is strongly suggestive +of Moorish origin, but I know nothing further +about it.</p> +<p> +Now let us retrace our flight, and wing our way +once more to the north of Sevílle, to the inland +province of Estremadura. Here we start from +Mérida, where the Roman-Moorish "alcazar" towers +proudly yet. The Moors repaired the old Roman +bridge over the Guadiana, and the gateway near +the river has a marble tablet with an Arabic inscription. +The Muslims observed towards the +people of this place good faith such as was never<a name="page374" id="page374"></a><span class="left">[page 374]</span> +shown to them in return, inasmuch as they allowed +them to retain their temples, creed, and bishops. +They built the citadel in 835, and the city dates +its decline from the time that Alonzo el Sabio took +it from them in 1229. Zámora is another ancient +place. It was taken from the Moors in 939, when +40,000 of them are said to have been killed. The +Moorish designs in the remarkable circular arches of +La Magdalena are worthy of note.</p> +<p> +In Toledo the church of Santo Tomé has a +brick tower of Moorish character; near it is the +Moorish bridge of San Martin, and in the neighbourhood, +by a stream leading to the Tagus, +Moorish mills and the ruins of a villa with Moorish +arches, now a farm hovel, may still be seen. The +ceiling of the chapel of the church of San Juan de +la Penetencia is in the Moorish style, much dilapidated +(1511 <span class="sc">a.d.</span>). The Toledan Moors were first-rate +hydraulists. One of their kings had a lake +in his palace, and in the middle a kiosk, whence +water descended on each side, thus enclosing +him in the coolest of summer-houses. It was in +Toledo that Ez-Zarkal made water-clocks for astronomical +calculations, but now this city obtains its +water only by the primitive machinery of donkeys, +which are driven up and down by water-carriers as +in Barbary itself. The citadel was once the kasbah +of the Moors.</p> +<p> +The Cathedral of Toledo is one of the most +remarkable in Spain. The arches of the transept +are semi-Moorish, Xamete, who wrought it in +Arcos stone in 1546-50, having been a Moor. +The very ancient manufactory of arms for which +Toledo has a world-wide fame dates from the time<a name="page375" id="page375"></a><span class="left">[page 375]</span> +of the Goths; into this the Moors introduced +their Damascene system of ornamenting and tempering, +and as early as 852 this identical "fabrica" was at +work under Abd er-Rahman ibn El Hákim. The +Moors treasured and named their swords like +children. These were the weapons which Othello, +the Moor, "kept in his chamber."</p> + +<br /><a name="tetuan" id="tetuan"></a><br /> +<p class="center"> +<a href="images/375.jpg"><img src="images/375-500.jpg" width="500" height="307" alt="THE MARKET-PLACE, TETUAN." border="0" /></a><br /><br /> +<i>Cavilla, Photo., Tangier.</i><br /><br /> +<b>THE MARKET-PLACE, TETUAN.</b> +</p><br /><br /> + +<p> +At Alcazar de San Juan, in La Mancha, I found +a few remnants of the Moorish town, as in the +church tower, but the name is now almost the only +Moorish thing about it. Hence we pass to Alarcon, +a truly Moorish city, built like a miniature Toledo, +on a craggy peninsula hemmed in by the river +Jucar. The land approach is still guarded by +Moorish towers and citadel.</p> +<p> +In Zocodovar—which takes its name from the +word sôk, "market-place"—we find a very Moorish +"plaza," with its irregular windows and balconies, +and in San Eugenio are some remains of an old +mosque with Kufic inscriptions, as well as an +arch and tomb of elaborate design. In the Calle +de las Tornarías there used to be a dilapidated +Moorish house with one still handsome room, but +it is doubtful whether this now survives the wreck +of time. It was called El Taller del Moro, because +Ambron, the Moorish governor of Huesca, is said +to have invited four hundred of the refractory chiefs +of Toledo to dine here, and to have cut off the head +of each as he arrived. There is a curious mosque +in the Calle del Cristo de la Luz, the roof is supported +by four low square pillars, each having a +different capital, from which spring double arches +like those at Córdova. The ceiling is divided into +nine compartments with domes.</p> + +<a name="page376" id="page376"></a><span class="left">[page 376]</span> +<p> +Madrid has passed through such various fortunes, +and has been so much re-built, that it now contains +few traces of the Moors. The only relic +which I saw in 1890 was a large piece of tabia, +forming a substantial wall near to the new cathedral, +which might have belonged to the city wall or only +to a fortress. The Museum of the Capital contains a +good collection of Moorish coins. In the Armoury +are Moorish guns, swords, saddles, and leather +shields, the last named made of two hides cemented +with a mortar composed of herbs and camel-hair.</p> +<p> +In Old Castile the footprints grow rare and +faint, although the name of Valladolid—Blád Walîd, +"Town of Walîd," a Moorish ameer—sufficiently +proclaims its origin, but I am not aware of any +Moorish remains there. In Burgos one old gate +near the triumphal arch, erected by Philip II., still +retains its Moorish opening, and on the opposite +hill stands the castle in which was celebrated the +bridal of our Edward I. with Eleanor of Castile. +It was then a true Moorish kasar, but part has +since been destroyed by fire. On the road from +Burgos to Vittoria we pass between the mountains +of Oca and the Pyrenean spurs, in which narrow +defile the old Spaniards defied the advancing Moors. +Moorish caverns or cisterns are still to be seen.</p> +<p> +Turning southward again, we come to Medinaceli, +or "the city of Selim," once the strong +frontier hold of a Moor of that name, the scene +of many conflicts among the Moors themselves, +and against the Christians. Here, on August 7, +1002, died the celebrated El Mansûr—"The +Victorious"—the "Cid" (Seyyid) of the Moors, +and the most terrible enemy of the Christians.<a name="page377" id="page377"></a><span class="left">[page 377]</span> +He was born in 938 near Algeciras, and by a +series of intrigues, treacheries and murders, rose +in importance till he became in reality master of +the puppet ameer. He proclaimed a holy crusade +against the Christians each year, and was buried +in the dust of fifty campaigns, for after every battle +he used to shake off the soil from his garments into +a chest which he carried about with him for that +purpose.</p> +<p> +In Aragon the situation of Daroca, in the fertile +basin of the Jiloca, is very picturesque. The little +town lies in a hill-girt valley around which rise +eminences defended by Moorish walls and towers, +which, following the irregular declivities, command +charming views from above. The palace of the +Mendozas at Guadalajara, in the same district, boasts +of an elegant row of Moorish windows, though these +appear to have been constructed after Guadalajara +was reconquered from the Moors by the Spaniards. +Near this place is a Moorish brick building, turned +into a battery by the invaders, and afterwards used +as a prison. Before leaving this town it will be +worth while to visit San Miguel, once a mosque, with +its colonnaded entrance, horse-shoe arches, machiolations, +and herring-bone patterns under the roof.</p> +<p> +Calatayud, the second town of Aragon, is of +Moorish origin. Its Moorish name means the +"Castle of Ayûb"—or Job—the nephew of Mûsa, +who used the ancient Bilbilis as a quarry whence +to obtain stones for its construction. The Dominican +convent of Calatayud has a glorious patio with +three galleries rising one above another, and a +portion of the exterior is enriched with pseudo-Moorish +work like the prisons at Guadalajara.</p> + +<a name="page378" id="page378"></a><span class="left">[page 378]</span> +<p> +Saragossa gave me more the impression of +Moorish origin than any town I saw in Spain, +except Sevílle and Córdova. The streets of the +original settlement are just those of Mequinez on +a small scale. The only object of genuinely Moorish +origin that I could find, however, was the Aljaferia, +once a palace-citadel, now a barrack, so named +after Jáfer, a Muslim king of this province. Since +his times Ferdinand and Isabella used it, and then +handed it over to the Inquisition. Some of the +rooms still retain Moorish decorations, but most +of the latter are of the period of their conquerors. +On one ceiling is pointed out the first gold brought +from the New World. The only genuine Moorish +remnant is the private mosque, with beautiful inscriptions. +The building has been incorporated in +a huge fort-like modern brick structure, which +would lead no one to seek inside for Arab traces.</p> +<p> +Passing from Saragossa northwards, we arrive +at Jaca, the railway terminus, which to this day +quarters on her shield the heads of four sheïkhs +who were left behind when their fellow-countrymen +fled from the city in 795, after a desperate +battle in which the Spanish women fought like +men. The site of the battle, called Las Tiendas, +is still visited on the first Friday in May, when +the daughters of these Amazons go gloriously +"a-shopping." The municipal charter of Jaca dates +from the Moorish expulsion, and is reckoned among +the earliest in Spain.</p> +<p> +Gerona, almost within sight of France, played +an important part, too, in those days, siding alternately +with that country and with Spain when in the +possession of the Moors. The Ameer Sulaïmán,<a name="page379" id="page379"></a><span class="left">[page 379]</span> +in 759 <span class="sc">a.d.</span>, entered into an alliance with Pepin, and +in 785 Charlemagne took the town, which the +Moors re-captured ten years later. It became their +headquarters for raids upon Narbonne and Nîsmes. +Castellon de Ampurias, once on the coast, which +has receded, was strong enough to resist +the Moors for a time, but after they had dismantled +it, the Normans appeared and finally destroyed it. +Now it is but a hamlet.</p> +<p> +We are now in the extreme north-west of the +Peninsula, where the relics we seek grow scanty, +and, in consequence, of more importance. Instead +of buildings in stone or concrete, we find here a +monument of independence, perhaps more interesting +in its way than any other. When the Pyrenees +and their hardy mountaineers checked the onward +rush of Islám, several independent states arose, +recognized by both France and Spain on account +of their bravery in opposing a common foe. The +only one of these retaining a semi-independence is +the republic of Andorra, a name corrupted from the +Arabic el (al) darra, "a plenteous rainfall," showing +how the Moors appreciated this feature of so well +wooded and hilly a district after the arid plains of +the south. The old Moorish castle of the chief +town bears the name of Carol, derived from that +of Charlemagne, who granted it the privileges +it still enjoys, so that it is a memento of the +meeting of Arab and Teuton. At Planes is a +church said to be of Moorish origin, and earlier +than Charlemagne; it certainly dates from no later +than the tenth century. These "foot-prints" show +that the Moor got a fairly good footing here, before +he was driven back, and his progress stayed.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="XXXV3" id="XXXV3"></a> +<a href="#XXXV3r">*</a> To the latter I am indebted for particulars regarding the many +places mentioned in this final survey which it was impossible for me +to visit.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page381" id="page381"></a><span class="left">[page 381]</span> + +<a name="appendix" id="appendix"></a> +<h2>APPENDIX</h2> + +<h3>"MOROCCO NEWS"</h3> +<p class="center1"> +"A lie is not worth the lying, nor is truth worth repeating."</p> +<p class="rindent"> +<i>Moorish Proverb.</i></p> + +<p> +So unanimous have been the uninformed reiteration +of the Press in contravention of much that has +been stated in the foregoing pages, that it will not +be out of place to quote a few extracts from men on +the spot who do know the facts. The first three +are from leaders in <i>Al-moghreb Al-aksa</i>, the present +English paper in Morocco, which accurately voices +the opinion of the British Colony in that country, +opinions shared by most disinterested residents of +other nationalities.</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"However we look upon the situation as it +stands to-day, and wherever our sympathies may +lie, it is impossible to over-estimate the danger +attending the unfortunate Anglo-French Agreement. +We have always—as our readers will acknowledge—advocated +the simple doctrine of the <i>status quo</i>, +and in this have received the support of every disinterested +person in and out of Morocco. Our +policy has at times thrown us into antagonism with +the exponents of the French colonial schemes; but +we at least have the satisfaction of knowing that, +however we may have fallen short of our duty, it<a name="page382" id="page382"></a><span class="left">[page 382]</span> +has been one which we have persevered in, prompted +by earnest conviction, by love of the country and +its people, and by admiration for its Sultan. The +simplicity of our aim has helped us in our uphill +fight, and will, no doubt, continue to do so in the +future.</p> +<p> +"Needless to say we look forward with no little +anxiety to the result of the conference. This needs +no explanation. In the discussion of such a question +it is absolutely imperative that the individual +members of the conference should be selected from +those who know their Morocco, and who are +acquainted with the causes which led up to the +present dead-lock. Only the keenest, shrewdest +men should be selected, for it must be borne in +mind that France will spare no pains to uphold +the recent Anglo-French Convention. Her most astute +diplomats will figure largely, for her dignity is at +stake. Indeed, her very position, diplomatic and +political, is in effect challenged. Taking this into +consideration, it is more than necessary to see that +the representatives of Great Britain are not chosen +for their family influence or for the perfection they +may have attained in the French language.</p> +<p> +"The task is hard and perilous. England is +waking to the fact that she has blundered, and, +as usual, she is unwilling to admit the fact. Circumstances, +however, will sooner or later force +her to modify her terms. Germany, Spain, the +United States, and other nations, to say nothing +of Morocco, must point out the absurdity of the +situation. If the agreement is inoperative with +regard to Morocco, it may as well be openly admitted +to be useless. This is not all. Should +English statesmanship direct that this injudicious +arrangement be adhered to, France and Great +Britain will stand as self-confessed violators of the +Convention of Madrid.</p> + +<a name="page383" id="page383"></a><span class="left">[page 383]</span> +<p> +"Fortunately the Moorish cause has some excellent +champions. For many years she has been +dumb. Now, however, that she is assailed, we find +a small but influential band of writers coming forward +with their pens to do battle for her.</p> +<p> +"This is the great consolation we have. Moorish +interests will no longer be the sport of European +political expediency. These men will, no doubt, protest +against the land-grabbing propensities of the +French colonial party, and they may find time to +point out that after a thousand years of not ignoble +independence, the Moorish race deserves a little +more consideration than has hitherto been granted.</p> +<p> +"Even those people who are responsible for this +deplorable state of affairs must now stand more or +less amazed at their handiwork. No diplomatic +subterfuge can efface the humiliation that underlies +the situation; and no one can possibly exaggerate +the danger that lies ahead of us."</p> + +<br /><hr class="short" /><br /> +<p> +"Two centuries ago Great Britain abandoned +Tangier, and it is only the present generation that +has realized the huge mistake. A maudlin sentimentalism, +to avoid displeasing the French King, +prevented us from handing the city back to Portugal; +an act which would have been wise, either +strategically, commercially, or with a view to the +suppression of the famous Salee rovers, who were +for long a scourge to ships entering the Straits. A +Commission of experts was appointed to consider +the question of the abandonment, one of them being +Mr. Pepys....</p> +<p> +"Whatever the opinion may have been of the +experts consulted by the Government on the present +agreement with France, we are strongly disposed +to believe that if they have been endowed with +greater sense than those of 1683, there is probably +more, as we must hope there is, in favour of British<a name="page384" id="page384"></a><span class="left">[page 384]</span> +interests, than appears to the public eye. Time +alone will tell what reservation, mental or otherwise, +may be locked up in the British Foreign Office. +It is difficult to believe that any British statesman +would wantonly give away any national interest, +but too lofty a policy has often been wanting in +practical sense which, had that policy descended +from principles to facts, would have saved the +nation thousands of lives, millions of money, and +sacrifices of its best interests."</p> + +<br /><hr class="short" /><br /> +<p> +"The events that have been fully before the +eyes of British subjects in Morocco in the abnormal +condition of the country during the past two years, +seem to have been ignored by our Foreign Office. +In short, it fully appears that our Foreign Office +policy has been designed to lead the Sultan to +political destruction, and to sacrifice every British +interest.</p> +<p> +"About two years ago our Foreign Office began +well in starting the Sultan on the path of progress: +in carrying out its aims it has done nothing but +blunders. Had it but acted with a little firmness, +the opening up of this country would have already +begun, and there would have been no 'Declaration' +which will assuredly give future Foreign Secretaries +matter for some anxiety. The declaration is only a +display of political fireworks that will dazzle the +eyes of the British public for a while, delighting +our Little Englanders, but only making the future +hazy and possibly more dangerous to deal with. It +seems only a way of putting off the real settlement, +which may not wait for thirty years to be dealt +with, on the points still at issue, and for which a +splendid opportunity has been thrown away at +Downing Street, and could have been availed of to +maintain British interests, prestige, and influence in +this country. Briefly, we fear that the attainment<a name="page385" id="page385"></a><span class="left">[page 385]</span> +of the end in view may yet cost millions to the +British nation.</p> +<p> +"That Morocco will progress under French +guidance there can be no question, and France may +be congratulated on her superior diplomacy +and the working of her Foreign Office system." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +With regard to the Moorish position, a contributor +observes in a later issue—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"The attitude of the Sultan and his Cabinet +may be summed up in a few words. 'You nations +have made your agreements about our country without +consulting us. We owe you nothing that we +are unable to pay on the conditions arranged +between us. We did not ask your subjects to +reside and trade on Moorish soil. In fact, we have +invariably discouraged their so doing. Troubles +exist in Morocco, it is true, but we are far greater +sufferers than you—our unbidden guests. And +but for the wholesale smuggling of repeating rifles +by <i>your</i> people, our tribes would not be able to +cause the disorders of which you complain. As +to your intention to intervene in our affairs, we +agree to no interference. If you are resolved to +try force, we believe that the Faith of the Prophet +will conquer. We still believe there is a God +stronger than man. And should the fight go +against us, we believe that it is better to earn Paradise +in a holy war for the defence of our soil, than +to submit tamely to Christian rule.'</p> +<p> +"The position, however lamentable, is intelligible; +but on the other hand it is incredible that +France—her mind made up long ago that she is to +inherit the Promised Land of Sunset—will sit down +meekly and allow herself to be flouted by the +monarch and people of a crumbling power like +Morocco. And this is what she has to face. Not<a name="page386" id="page386"></a><span class="left">[page 386]</span> +indeed a nation, as we understand the term, but a +gathering of units differing widely in character and +race—Arabs, Berbers, mulattoes, and negroes—unable +to agree together on any subject under the +sun but one, and that one the defence of Islám +from foreign intervention. Under the standard of +the invincible Prophet they will join shoulder to +shoulder. And hopeless and pathetic as it may +seem, they will defy the disciplined ranks and +magazine guns of Europe. Thus, wherever our +sympathies may lie, the possibilities of a peaceful +settlement of the Morocco question appear to be +dwindling day by day. The anarchy paramount in +three-quarters of the sultanate is not only an ever-increasing +peril to European lives and property, +but a direct encouragement to intervention. Of +one thing we in Morocco have no kind of doubt. +The landing of foreign troops, even for protective +service, in any one part of the coast would infallibly +be the signal for a general rising in every part +of the Empire. No sea-port would be safe for +foreigners or for friendly natives until protected by +a strong European force. And, once begun, the +task of 'pacifying' the interior must entail an +expenditure of lives and treasure which will amply +satisfy French demands for colonial extension for +many a year to come." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +One more quotation from an editorial—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"And so it would appear, that, with the smiling +approval of the world's Press, the wolf is to take +over the affairs of the lamb. We use the phrase +advisedly. We have never hesitated to criticize the +action, and to condemn the errors, of the Makhzen +where such a course has been needful in the public +interest. We can, therefore, with all the more +justice, call attention to the real issues of the compact<a name="page387" id="page387"></a><span class="left">[page 387]</span> +embodied in the Morocco clauses of the Anglo-French +Agreement of April, 1904. How long the +leading journals of England may continue to ignore +the facts of the case it is impossible to say; but +that there will come a startling awakening seems +inevitable. Every merely casual observer on this +side of the Mediterranean knows only too well +that the most trifling pretext may be at any hour +seized for the next move in the development of +French intervention. Evidence is piling up to show +that the forward party in France, and still more in +Algeria, is burning to strike while yet the frantic +enthusiasm of the Entente lasts, and while they can +rely upon the support—we had almost written, the +moral support—of Great Britain. Can we shut our +eyes to the deliberate provocations they are giving +the Makhzen in almost every part of the sultanate?</p> +<p> +"These things are not reported to Europe, +naturally. In spite of all our comfortable cant about +justice to less powerful races, who in England cares +about justice to Morocco and her Sultan? We owe +it to Germany that the thing was not rushed +through a few months ago. Who has heard, who +wants to hear, the Moorish side of the question? +Morocco is mute. The Sultan pulls no journalistic +wires. He has no advocate in the Press, or in +Parliament, or in Society. Hardly a public man +opens his mouth in England to refer to Morocco, +without talking absolute twaddle. The only member +of either House of Parliament who has shown a real +grasp of the tremendous issues of the question is +Lord Rosebery, in the memorable words—</p> +<p> +"'No more one-sided agreement was ever concluded +between two Powers at peace with each +other. I hope and trust, but I hope and trust +rather than believe, that the Power which holds +Gibraltar may never have cause to regret having +handed Morocco over to a great military Power.'</p> + +<a name="page388" id="page388"></a><span class="left">[page 388]</span> +<p> +"Had that true statesman, and true Englishman, +been in power eighteen months ago, England would +never have been pledged to sacrifice her commercial +interests in Morocco, to abandon her wholesome, +traditional policy in the Mediterranean, and to +revoke her solemn engagement to uphold the integrity +of the Sultan's dominions." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +An excellent idea of the discrepancies between +the alarmist reports with which the Press is from +time to time deluged, and the facts as known on +the spot, is afforded by the following extracts from +<i>Al-moghreb Al-aksa</i> of January 7, 1905, when the +London papers had been almost daily victimized by +their correspondents regarding Morocco:—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"The dismissal of the military <i>attachés</i> at the +Moorish Court threatened to raise a terrible conflagration +in Europe, and great indignation among +foreign residents in this country—according to +certain Press reports. This fiery disposition of +some offered a remarkable contrast with the coolness +of the others. For instance, the British took +almost no interest in the matter, for the simple +reason that there has never been any British official +military mission in the Moorish Court. It is true +there are a few British subjects in Moorish military +service, but they are privately employed by the +Sultan's Government, and their service is simply +voluntary. Even personally, they actually show no +great concern in remaining here or not.</p> +<p> +"The Italian military mission is composed of +very few persons. The chief, Col. Ferrara, is on +leave in Italy, and the Mission is now represented +by Captain Campini, who lives at Fez with his +family. They report having received all kind attentions +from the Sultan quite recently, and that they<a name="page389" id="page389"></a><span class="left">[page 389]</span> +know nothing about the dismissal which has so +noisily sounded in Europe. According to the same +Press reports, great fears were entertained of a +general rising against the foreign residents in Fez +and other places in the interior, and while it is +reported that the military <i>attachés</i>, consular officers +and residents of all nations were notified to leave +Fez and come to Tangier or the coast ports as a +matter of precaution, we find that nobody moves +from the Court, because, they say, they have seen +nothing to induce them to leave that residence. +And what has Mulai Abd El Azîz replied to French +complaints and demands respecting the now historical +dismissal of the military <i>attachés</i>? A very simple +thing—that H.S.M. did not think that the dismissal +could resent any of the civilized nations, +because it was decided as an economic measure, +there being no money to pay even other more +pressing liabilities. However, the Sultan, wishing +to be on friendly terms with France and all other +nations, immediately withdrew the dismissal and +promised to pay the <i>attachés</i> as long as it is possible +to do so. The missions, consuls, etc., have now no +need to leave Fez, and everything remains stationary +as before. The only thing steadily progressing is +the insecurity of life and property in the outskirts +and district of Tangier, where murders and robberies +proceed unabated, and this state of affairs has caused +the British and German residents in this town to +send petitions to their respective Governments, +through their legations, soliciting that some measure +may be adopted to do away with the present state +of insecurity which has already paralysed all overland +traffic between this city and the neighbouring towns.</p> +<p> +"The contrasts of the situation are as remarkable +as they are comic, and while the whole country is +perfectly quiet, those places more in contact with<a name="page390" id="page390"></a><span class="left">[page 390]</span> +the civilized world, like Tangier and the Algerian +frontier, are the only spots which are seriously +troubled with disturbances." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +So much for northern Morocco. The same +issue contains the following report from its Mogador +correspondent regarding the "disturbed state" of +southern Morocco.</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"It would puzzle even the trained imagination +of certain journalists we wot of to evolve anything +alarmist out of the condition of the great tribes +between Mogador and the Atlas. During the +recent tribal differences not one single highway +robbery, even of a native, was, I believe, committed. +The roads are open everywhere; the rival chieftains +have, figuratively, exchanged the kiss of peace, and +the tribes have confessed that it was a mistake to +leave their farms and farm-work simply to please an +ambitious and utterly thankless governor.</p> +<p> +"As for Europeans, they have been rambling +all over the country with their wonted freedom +from interference. A Frenchman, travelling almost +alone, has just returned from Imintanoot. Another +has twice crossed the Atlas. Needless to say the +route to Marrákesh is almost as devoid of other +than pleasurable novelty as a stroll on the Embankment +or down the shady side of Pall Mall. When, +indeed, will folks at home grasp the fact that the +Berber clans of southern Morocco belong to a race +differing utterly in character and largely in customs +from the ruffians infesting the northern half of the +sultanate?</p> +<p> +"'Nothing but the unpleasant prospect of being +held up by brigands,' writes a friend, 'prevents me +from revisiting your beautiful country.' How convince +such people that brigandage is an art unknown +south of the Oom Rabya? That the prayer of the<a name="page391" id="page391"></a><span class="left">[page 391]</span> +Shluh, when a Nazarene visits their land, is that +nothing may happen to bring trouble on the clan? +They may inwardly hate the <i>Rûmi</i>, or they may +regard him merely as an uncouth blot on the +scenery; but should actual unpleasantness arise, +he will, in almost every case, have himself to thank +for it. (London papers please copy!)" +</p></blockquote> +<p> +This letter was dated two days after the Paris +correspondent of the <i>Times</i> had telegraphed—</p> + +<blockquote><p> +"Events would seem likely to be coming to a +head in consequence of the anarchy prevailing in +the Shereefian Empire. The Pretender is just now +concentrating his troops in the plain of Angad, and +is preparing to take an energetic offensive against +Ujda. The camp of the Pretender is imposing in +its warlike display. All the caids and the sons of +Bu Amema surround Mulai Mahomed. The men +are armed with French <i>chassepots</i>, and are well +dressed in new uniforms supplied by an Oran firm. +All the war material was embarked on board the +French yacht <i>Zut</i>, which landed it last month on +the shores of Rastenga between Cape Eau and +Melilla under the direction of the Pretender's +troops." +</p></blockquote> +<p> +Towards Christmas, 1902, circumstantial reports +began to appear in the newspapers of an overwhelming +defeat of the imperial army by rebels who were +marching on Fez, who had besieged it, and had cut +off the aqueduct bringing its water, the Sultan retreating +to the palace, Europeans being ordered to +the coast, etc., etc. These statements I promptly +and categorically denied in an interview for the +London <i>Echo</i>; there was no real "pretender," only +a religious fanatic supported by two disaffected<a name="page392" id="page392"></a><span class="left">[page 392]</span> +tribes, the imperial army had not been defeated, as +only a small body had been despatched to quell the +disturbance; the "rebels" were not besieging Fez, as +they had no army, and only the guns captured by +the clever midnight surprise of sleeping troops, of +which the "battle"—really a panic—consisted; they +had not cut the "aqueduct," as Fez is built on the +banks of a river from which it drinks; the Sultan's +palace was his normal abode; the Europeans had +not fled, seeing no danger, but that <i>on account of the +alarming telegrams from Europe</i>, their Ministers in +Tangier had advised them to withdraw, much +against their will.</p> +<p> +So sweeping a contradiction of statements receiving +daily confirmation from Tangier, heightened +colour from Oran, and intensification from Madrid, +must have been regarded as the ravings of a madman, +for the interview was held over for a week for +confirmation. Had not thirty-four correspondents +descended on Tangier alone, each with expenses to +meet? Something had to be said, though the +correspondent nearest to the scene, in Fez, was two +days' journey from it, and six from Tangier, the +nearest telegraph station. It is true that some +years ago an American boldly did the journey +"From Fez to Fleet Street in Eight Days," by forgetting +most of the journey to Tangier, but this was +quite out-done now. Meanwhile every rumour was +remodelled in Oran or Madrid, and served up afresh +with confirmatory <i>sauce piquante</i>, <i>à la française</i> or +<i>à l'espagnol</i>, as the case might be. It was not till +Reuter had obtained an independent, common-sense +report, that the interview was published, my statements +having been all confirmed, but by that time<a name="page393" id="page393"></a><span class="left">[page 393]</span> +interest had flagged, and the British public still +believes that a tremendous upheaval took place in +Morocco just then.</p> +<p> +Yet, notwithstanding the detailed accounts of +battles and reverses—a collation of which shows +the "Father of the She-ass" fighting in several +places at once, captured or slain to-day and fighting +to-morrow, and so on—the Government of Morocco +was never in real danger from the "Rogi's" rising, +and the ultimate issue was never in doubt. The +late Sultan, El Hasan, more than once suffered in +person at the hands of the same tribes, defeats more +serious than those experienced by the inadequate +forces sent by his son.</p> +<p> +The moral of all this is that any news from +Morocco, save that concerning Europeans or events +on the coast, must be received with caution, and +confirmation awaited. The most reliable accounts +at present available are those of the <i>Times</i> correspondent +at Tangier, while the <i>Manchester Guardian</i> +is well informed from Mogador. Whatever emanates +from Paris or Algeria, not referring directly to frontier +events; or from Madrid, not referring to events +near the Spanish "presidios," should be refused +altogether, as at best it is second-hand, more often +fabricated. How the London Press can seriously +publish telegrams about Morocco from New York +and Washington passes comprehension. The low +ebb reached by American journals with one or two +notable exceptions in their competitive sensationalism +would of itself suffice to discredit much +that appears, even were the countries in touch with +each other.</p> +<p> +The fact is that very few men in Morocco itself<a name="page394" id="page394"></a><span class="left">[page 394]</span> +are in a position to form adequate judgements on +current affairs, or even to collect reliable news from +all parts. So few have direct relations with the +authorities, native and foreign; so many can only +rely on and amplify rumour or information from +interested sources. So many, too, of the latter <i>must</i> +make money somehow! The soundest judgements +are to be formed by those who, being well-informed +as to the conditions and persons concerned, and +Moorish affairs in general, are best acquainted with +the origin of the reports collected by others, and +can therefore rightly appraise them.</p> + +<br /><br /><br /> + +<a name="page395" id="page395"></a><span class="left">[page 395]</span> + + +<p class="center"> +<a href="#A">A</a> | <a href="#B">B</a> | <a href="#C">C</a> | <a href="#D">D</a> | +<a href="#E">E</a> | <a href="#F">F</a> | <a href="#G">G</a> | <a href="#H">H</a> | +<a href="#Im">I</a> | <a href="#J">J</a> | <a href="#K">K</a> | <a href="#L">L</a> | +<a href="#M">M</a> | <a href="#O">O</a> | <a href="#P">P</a> | +<a href="#R">R</a> | <a href="#S">S</a> | <a href="#T">T</a> | +<a href="#Va">V</a> | <a href="#W">W</a> | <a href="#Xa">X</a> | +<a href="#Z">Z</a><br /><br /></p> + + +<br /> + <a name="A" id="A"></a> + <ul class="index"> + +<li>A</li> +<li>Abbas, Shah of Persia, <a class="index" href="#page280">280</a> <i>note</i></li> + +<li>Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih, + <ul class="index1"><li>story of: protection system, <a class="index" href="#page247">247</a>-251</li></ul></li> + +<li>Abd Allah Ghaïlán, former rebel leader, <a class="index" href="#page274">274</a></li> + +<li>Abd el Hakk and the Widow Záïdah, story of the, <a class="index" href="#page164">164</a>, <a class="index" href="#page165">165</a></li> + +<li>Addington, Mr., British Ambassador at Granáda, <a class="index" href="#page354">354</a></li> + +<li>Aghmát, capital of Southern Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a></li> + +<li>Ahmad II., "the Golden," addressed by Queen Elizabeth, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a></li> + +<li>Algeria, 281; + <ul class="index1"><li>the French in, <a class="index" href="#page294">294</a>-296, <a class="index" href="#page299">299</a>;</li> + <li>viewed from Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page307">307</a>-317;</li> + <li>under French rule, <a class="index" href="#page308">308</a>-315;</li> + <li>failure as a colony, <a class="index" href="#page309">309</a>;</li> + <li>Arabs in, <a class="index" href="#page313">313</a>;</li> + <li>Moors in, <a class="index" href="#page314">314</a>;</li> + <li>mosques, <a class="index" href="#page315">315</a>;</li> + <li>tilework, <a class="index" href="#page316">316</a>;</li> + <li>field for scientist, <a class="index" href="#page317">317</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Algiers (El Jazîrah), the city and people, <a class="index" href="#page310">310</a>-316</li> + +<li>Alhambra, the, at Granáda (<i>q.v.</i>)</li> + +<li><i>Al-moghreb Al-aksa</i> on the political situation, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394</li> + +<li>Andorra, the Pyrenean republic of, <a class="index" href="#page7">7</a>, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, <a class="index" href="#page379">379</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>its privileges granted by Charlemagne, <a class="index" href="#page379">379</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Anglo-French Agreement, <a class="index" href="#page276">276</a>, <a class="index" href="#page279">279</a>, <a class="index" href="#page301">301</a>, <a class="index" href="#page304">304</a>, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>clauses in, <a class="index" href="#page283">283</a>, <a class="index" href="#page293">293</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Anne, Queen, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a></li> + +<li>Arabs, the wandering, <a class="index" href="#page57">57</a>-62; + <ul class="index1"><li>tent-life, <a class="index" href="#page57">57</a>-62;</li> + <li>food, <a class="index" href="#page59">59</a>;</li> + <li>hospitality, <a class="index" href="#page60">60</a>;</li> + <li>in Algeria, <a class="index" href="#page313">313</a>;</li> + <li>in Tunisia, <a class="index" href="#page322">322</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + + +<a name="B" id="B"></a> +<ul class="index"> +<li>B</li> + +<li>Beggars, native, <a class="index" href="#page115">115</a>, <a class="index" href="#page116">116</a></li> + +<li>Berber race, <a class="index" href="#page3">3</a>, <a class="index" href="#page6">6</a>, <a class="index" href="#page47">47</a>-56; + <ul class="index1"><li>pirates, <a class="index" href="#page3">3</a>; </li> + <li>men brave and warlike, <a class="index" href="#page48">48</a>, <a class="index" href="#page49">49</a>; </li> + <li>Reefian, <a class="index" href="#page48">48</a>, <a class="index" href="#page50">50</a>; </li> + <li>women often very intelligent, <a class="index" href="#page51">51</a>; </li> + <li>they, not Saracens or Arabs, real conquerors of Spain, <a class="index" href="#page6">6</a>, <a class="index" href="#page54">54</a>;</li> + <li>origin still a problem, <a class="index" href="#page55">55</a>;</li> + <li>Ghaïátà Berbers in revolt, <a class="index" href="#page271">271</a>-273</li></ul></li> + +<li>Boabdil, <a class="index" href="#page356">356</a>, <a class="index" href="#page365">365</a></li> + +<li>Boo Ziaro Miliáni, arrest and release of, <a class="index" href="#page34">34</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="C" id="C"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>C</li> + +<li>Café, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page159">159</a>-165</li> + +<li>Carthage, <a class="index" href="#page53">53</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>Christian and Mohammedan, <a class="index" href="#page53">53</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Charlemagne, <a class="index" href="#page379">379</a></li> + +<li>Charles Martel, the "Hammer," <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a></li> + +<li>Charles V., "improver" of Spanish monuments of Moorish art, <a class="index" href="#page338">338</a>, <a class="index" href="#page350">350</a>, <a class="index" href="#page353">353</a></li> + +<li>Chess, <a class="index" href="#page133">133</a>, <a class="index" href="#page144">144</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>an Arab game, <a class="index" href="#page134">134</a><a name="page396" id="page396"></a><span class="left1">[page 396]</span></li></ul></li> +<li>Child-life, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page94">94</a>-101; + <ul class="index1"><li>infancy, <a class="index" href="#page95">95</a>;</li> + <li>school days, <a class="index" href="#page97">97</a>;</li> + <li>youth, <a class="index" href="#page99">99</a>;</li> + <li>early vices, <a class="index" href="#page101">101</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>"Cid," the, El Mansûr, <a class="index" href="#page376">376</a></li> + +<li>City life in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page63">63</a>-70</li> + +<li>Civil war in Morocco: Asni and the Aït Mîzán, <a class="index" href="#page261">261</a>-266</li> + +<li>Coinage, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page23">23</a>-25, <a class="index" href="#page125">125</a></li> + +<li>Córdova, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, <a class="index" href="#page338">338</a>-346, <a class="index" href="#page375">375;</a> + <ul class="index1"><li>its famous mosque (cathedral), <a class="index" href="#page338">338</a>-345;</li> + <li>aisles, columns, arches, <a class="index" href="#page339">339</a>, <a class="index" href="#page340">340</a>;</li> + <li>the kiblah niche, <a class="index" href="#page342">342</a>;</li> + <li>Moorish worshippers in, <a class="index" href="#page342">342</a>;</li> + <li>European additions to, <a class="index" href="#page343">343</a>-345;</li> + <li>history of the town, <a class="index" href="#page345">345</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Corrosive sublimate tea—for disgraced officials, <a class="index" href="#page28">28</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="D" id="D"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>D</li> + +<li>Debts in Morocco, how settled, <a class="index" href="#page30">30</a>-34</li> + +<li>Delbrel, M., leader of the "Rogi's" forces, <a class="index" href="#page273">273</a></li> + +<li>Dining out in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page102">102</a>-106</li> + +<li>Diplomacy in Morocco. <i>See</i> Embassy</li> + +<li>Draughts, game of, <a class="index" href="#page162">162</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="E" id="E"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>E</li> + +<li>Edward I. and Eleanor of Castile, <a class="index" href="#page376">376</a></li> + +<li>Edward VII. in Algeria, <a class="index" href="#page281">281</a></li> + +<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a></li> + +<li>El K'sar es-Sagheer, <a class="index" href="#page6">6</a></li> + +<li>El Menébhi, ambassador to London and Minister of War, <a class="index" href="#page268">268</a></li> + +<li>El Moghreb el Aksa, native name of Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page14">14</a></li> + +<li>El Yazeed, Sultan in 1790, declares war on all Christendom, <a class="index" href="#page10">10</a></li> + +<li>Embassy to court of Sultan, a typical, <a class="index" href="#page206">206</a>-232; + <ul class="index1"><li>requisitioning provisions, <a class="index" href="#page206">206</a>, <a class="index" href="#page207">207</a>;</li> + <li><i>personnel</i> and <i>attachés</i>, <a class="index" href="#page208">208</a>, <a class="index" href="#page209">209</a>;</li> + <li>native agent, <a class="index" href="#page209">209</a>; </li> + <li>arrival at Marrákesh, <a class="index" href="#page210">210</a>;</li> + <li>reception, <a class="index" href="#page212">212</a>, <a class="index" href="#page213">213</a>;</li> + <li>the diplomatic interview: + <ul class="index2"><li>ambassador, interpreter, and Sultan, <a class="index" href="#page214">214</a>-222;</li></ul></li> + <li>the result: + <ul class="index2"><li>as it appeared in the Press, <a class="index" href="#page223">223</a>;</li> + <li>as it was in reality, <a class="index" href="#page224">224</a>, <a class="index" href="#page225">225</a>; </li></ul></li> + <li>diamond cut diamond, <a class="index" href="#page226">226</a>-230;</li> + <li>failure, and its causes, <a class="index" href="#page227">227</a>-230</li></ul></li> + +<li>England and Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page276">276</a>, <a class="index" href="#page293">293</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page294">294</a>, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394; + <ul class="index1"><li>British trade, <a class="index" href="#page280">280</a>;</li> + <li>British policy in, <a class="index" href="#page301">301</a>-304;</li> + <li>Anglo-French Agreement (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>"Morocco news," <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394</li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="F" id="F"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>F</li> + +<li>Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, <a class="index" href="#page334">334</a>, <a class="index" href="#page350">350</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page353">353</a>, <a class="index" href="#page362">362</a>, <a class="index" href="#page378">378</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>their nuptials the death-knell of Moorish rule in Europe, <a class="index" href="#page7">7</a>;</li> + <li>tomb of, <a class="index" href="#page355">355</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Fez, founded by son of Mulai Idrees, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>Karûeeïn mosque at, <a class="index" href="#page44">44</a>, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page339">339</a>, <a class="index" href="#page358">358</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Football, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page97">97</a>, <a class="index" href="#page137">137</a></li> + +<li>Ford's "Handbook to Spain," <a class="index" href="#page357">357</a>, <a class="index" href="#page366">366</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page373">373</a></li> + +<li>France in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page288">288</a>, <a class="index" href="#page292">292</a>-305; + <ul class="index1"><li>"policing" the frontier, <a class="index" href="#page288">288</a>;</li> + <li>her rule inevitable and desirable, <a class="index" href="#page294">294</a>-300;</li> + <li>hope for the Moors, <a class="index" href="#page301">301</a>, <a class="index" href="#page305">305</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page385">385</a>;</li> + <li>Anglo-French Agreement (<i>q.v.</i>); </li> + <li>in Algeria, <a class="index" href="#page308">308</a>-315;</li> + <li>in Tunisia, <a class="index" href="#page318">318</a>-320;</li> + <li><i>see</i> Political situation, the, and Appendix, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394</li></ul></li> +</ul> + + +<a name="page397" id="page397"></a><span class="left1">[page 397]</span> + +<a class="index" name="G" id="G"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>G</li> + +<li>German interests in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page279">279</a>-282</li> + +<li>Gerona: Sulaïmán, Pepin, and Charlemagne, <a class="index" href="#page378">378</a>, <a class="index" href="#page379">379</a></li> + +<li>Gibraltar, Moorish castle, <a class="index" href="#page370">370</a></li> + +<li>Granáda, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, <a class="index" href="#page352">352</a>-365; + <ul class="index1"><li>the Alhambra Palace, loveliest monument of Moorish art in Spain, <a class="index" href="#page352">352</a>-354, + <a class="index" href="#page356">356</a>-362;</li> + <li>despoiled by Charles V. and the French, <a class="index" href="#page353">353</a>;</li> + <li>"Tia Antonia," <a class="index" href="#page353">353</a>, <a class="index" href="#page354">354</a>;</li> + <li>Morocco-like surroundings, <a class="index" href="#page354">354</a>;</li> + <li>mosques, <a class="index" href="#page355">355</a>;</li> + <li>tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella, <a class="index" href="#page355">355</a>;</li> + <li>remains of Cardinal Mendoza, <a class="index" href="#page356">356</a>, <a class="index" href="#page377">377</a>;</li> + <li>Bu Abd Allah's sword, <a class="index" href="#page356">356</a>, <a class="index" href="#page365">365</a>;</li> + <li>courts and halls of the Alhambra, <a class="index" href="#page358">358</a>-362;</li> + <li>other Moorish remains, <a class="index" href="#page362">362</a>-365</li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="H" id="H"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>H</li> + +<li>Hamed Zirári, story of: protection system, <a class="index" href="#page242">242</a>-246</li> + +<li>Hareems, royal, <a class="index" href="#page73">73</a>-75; + <ul class="index1"><li>and other, <a class="index" href="#page82">82</a>-87</li></ul></li> + +<li>Hasheesh, opium of Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page130">130</a></li> + +<li>Hay, Sir John Drummond, <a class="index" href="#page294">294</a></li> + +<li>Herbs, fragrant, use of, <a class="index" href="#page86">86</a>, <a class="index" href="#page108">108</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page122">122</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="Im" id="Im"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>I</li> + +<li>Infant mortality in Morocco high, <a class="index" href="#page96">96</a></li> + +<li>Irving, Washington, at Granáda, <a class="index" href="#page354">354</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>his "Tia Antonia," <a class="index" href="#page354">354</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Ismaïl the Bloodthirsty exchanges compliments with Queen Anne, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="J" id="J"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>J</li> + +<li>Jaca, site of desperate battle between Spaniards and Moors, <a class="index" href="#page378">378</a></li> + +<li>Jelálli Zarhôni, the "Rogi," head of the revolt of the Ghaïátà Berbers, <a class="index" href="#page271">271</a>-273</li> + +<li>Jewish interpreter, astute, <a class="index" href="#page214">214</a>-222</li> + +<li>Jews in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page16">16</a>-17; + <ul class="index1"><li>justice for, <a class="index" href="#page252">252</a>-260;</li> + <li>in Spain, traces of, <a class="index" href="#page334">334</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="K" id="K"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>K</li> + +<li>Kabyles, <a class="index" href="#page54">54</a></li> + +<li>Kaïd, the, and his court, <a class="index" href="#page252">252</a>-259</li> + +<li>Kesk'soo, the national dish, <a class="index" href="#page59">59</a>, <a class="index" href="#page105">105</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page121">121</a>, <a class="index" href="#page198">198</a>, <a class="index" href="#page266">266</a></li> + +<li>Khalia, staple article of winter diet, <a class="index" href="#page197">197</a></li> + +<li>Korán, the, at schools, <a class="index" href="#page97">97</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>the standard work at colleges, <a class="index" href="#page98">98</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Kufic inscriptions, <a class="index" href="#page351">351</a>, <a class="index" href="#page361">361</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page373">373</a>, <a class="index" href="#page375">375</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="L" id="L"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>L</li> + +<li><i>L'Aigle</i> at Mogador and Agadir, <a class="index" href="#page35">35</a></li> + +<li>"Land of the Moors, The," <a class="index" href="#page292">292</a></li> + +<li><i>Lex talionis</i>, <a class="index" href="#page48">48</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="M" id="M"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>M</li> + +<li>Machiavellian arts, Moors excel in, <a class="index" href="#page38">38</a></li> + +<li>Madrid Convention of 1880 ... <a class="index" href="#page282">282</a>, <a class="index" href="#page382">382</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>essential features of, <a class="index" href="#page289">289</a>, <a class="index" href="#page290">290</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Madrid, Moorish remains in, <a class="index" href="#page376">376</a></li> + +<li>Malaga, Moorish dockyard, <a class="index" href="#page370">370</a></li> + +<li>Market-place, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page107">107</a>-110, <a class="index" href="#page121">121</a>-123, +<a class="index" href="#page125">125</a>-132; + <ul class="index1"><li>and marketing, <a class="index" href="#page109">109</a>, <a class="index" href="#page113">113</a>-115, + <a class="index" href="#page118">118</a>-124</li></ul></li> + +<li>Marrákesh, founded in the middle of the 11th century, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>kingdom of, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a>, <a class="index" href="#page14">14</a>;</li> + <li>the Kûtûbîya at, <a class="index" href="#page44">44</a>, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page346">346</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Marriage in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page75">75</a>, <a class="index" href="#page77">77</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>country wedding, <a class="index" href="#page88">88</a>-93;</li> + <li>feastings, presents, and rejoicings, <a class="index" href="#page88">88</a>-91<a name="page398" id="page398"></a><span class="left1">[page 398]</span></li></ul></li> + +<li>Mauretania Tingitana, titular North African bishopric still, <a class="index" href="#page3">3</a></li> + +<li>Mavrogordato, Kyrios Dimitri: typical embassy, <a class="index" href="#page206">206</a>-232</li> + +<li>Medicine-men, <a class="index" href="#page166">166</a>-178; + <ul class="index1"><li>cupping, <a class="index" href="#page167">167</a>-169, <a class="index" href="#page197">197</a>;</li> + <li>exorcising, <a class="index" href="#page169">169</a>, <a class="index" href="#page171">171</a>;</li> + <li>cauterizing, <a class="index" href="#page170">170</a>;</li> + <li>charms, <a class="index" href="#page172">172</a>;</li> + <li>curious remedies, <a class="index" href="#page174">174</a>-177;</li> + <li>philtres and poisons, <a class="index" href="#page177">177</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Mekka, pilgrimage to. <i>See</i> Pilgrimage</li> + +<li>Mendoza, Cardinal, <a class="index" href="#page355">355</a>, <a class="index" href="#page356">356</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>remains of the Mendozas, <a class="index" href="#page377">377</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Merchants, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page109">109</a>, <a class="index" href="#page113">113</a>-115</li> + +<li>Mérida, Muslim toleration at, <a class="index" href="#page373">373</a></li> + +<li>Mokhtar and Zóharah, wedding of, <a class="index" href="#page88">88</a>-93</li> + +<li>Monk, General, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a></li> + +<li>Moors in Spain, traces of. <i>See</i> Spain</li> + +<li>Morals, Moorish, lax, <a class="index" href="#page39">39</a>-44, 101</li> + +<li>Morocco: retrospect, <a class="index" href="#page1">1</a>-13; + <ul class="index1"><li>of present day, <a class="index" href="#page14">14</a>-65;</li> + <li>races: Berbers, Arabs, Moors, <a class="index" href="#page15">15</a>-17, <a class="index" href="#page47">47</a>-62;</li> + <li>life of the people--society, business, pastime, religion, <a class="index" href="#page63">63</a>-204;</li> + <li>diplomacy (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>law and justice, <a class="index" href="#page233">233</a>-260;</li> + <li>the political situation (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>her neighbours, <a class="index" href="#page307">307</a>-331;</li> + <li>Moors in Spain (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>"Morocco news," <i>Al-moghreb Al-aksa</i>, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394</li></ul></li> + +<li>Morocco-Algerian frontier, France "policing" the, <a class="index" href="#page288">288</a></li> + +<li>Mosques, French treatment of, <a class="index" href="#page315">315</a>, <a class="index" href="#page319">319</a></li> + +<li>Mulai Abd Allah V., 1756, makes war upon Gibraltar, <a class="index" href="#page11">11</a></li> + +<li>Mulai Abd el Azîz IV., present Sultan, <a class="index" href="#page267">267</a>-291</li> + +<li>Mulai Abd el Káder, a favourite saint, <a class="index" href="#page115">115</a></li> + +<li>Mulai el Hasan III., late Sultan, <a class="index" href="#page24">24</a>, <a class="index" href="#page40">40</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page267">267</a></li> + +<li>Mulai Idrees, direct descendant of Mohammed, and early Arabian missionary to Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page4">4</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>founded the Shurfà Idreeseeïn dynasty, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Mulai Yakûb el Mansûr, builder of mosque towers at Sevílle, Marrákesh, and Rabat, <a class="index" href="#page347">347</a></li> + +<li>Musical instruments, <a class="index" href="#page135">135</a>, <a class="index" href="#page139">139</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page151">151</a>, <a class="index" href="#page160">160</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="O" id="O"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>O</li> + +<li>Official rapacity, <a class="index" href="#page28">28</a>, <a class="index" href="#page242">242</a>-251, +<a class="index" href="#page252">252</a>-260</li> + +<li>Orihuela, palms at, <a class="index" href="#page371">371</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="P" id="P"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>P</li> + +<li>Pawkers, Admiral, <a class="index" href="#page11">11</a></li> + +<li>Pepys, Samuel, once on a Moorish Commission, <a class="index" href="#page383">383</a></li> + +<li>Pilgrims to Mekka, <a class="index" href="#page191">191</a>-204; + <ul class="index1"><li>sea-route preferred to-day, <a class="index" href="#page191">191</a>;</li> + <li>camp at Tangier, <a class="index" href="#page192">192</a>-200;</li> + <li>comforts and discomforts, <a class="index" href="#page192">192</a>-200;</li> + <li>a novel tent, <a class="index" href="#page193">193</a>-195;</li> + <li>food, <a class="index" href="#page197">197</a>-199;</li> + <li>returning home, <a class="index" href="#page201">201</a>-204</li></ul></li> + +<li>Piracy of Moors, <a class="index" href="#page7">7</a>-9; + <ul class="index1"><li>tribute extorted from European Powers, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a>, <a class="index" href="#page10">10</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page12">12</a>;</li> + <li>abandoned by Algiers, <a class="index" href="#page12">12</a>;</li> + <li>not wholly unknown to-day, <a class="index" href="#page13">13</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Political situation, the, <a class="index" href="#page267">267</a>-291; + <ul class="index1"><li>the Sultan and reforms, <a class="index" href="#page268">268</a>-270;</li> + <li>unsettled state of the empire, <a class="index" href="#page270">270</a>-275;</li> + <li>a change welcome, <a class="index" href="#page276">276</a>;</li> + <li>agreement among the three great Powers remote, <a class="index" href="#page276">276</a>;</li> + <li>Anglo-French Agreement (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>famine and unrest, <a class="index" href="#page277">277</a>;</li> + <li>German interests, <a class="index" href="#page280">280</a>;</li> + <li>Spanish interests, <a class="index" href="#page283">283</a>;<a name="page399" id="page399"></a><span class="left1">[page 399]</span></li> + <li>conference proposed, <a class="index" href="#page282">282</a>, <a class="index" href="#page284">284</a>;</li> + <li>points for discussion, <a class="index" href="#page285">285</a>-288;</li> + <li>"Morocco news" must be received with caution, <a class="index" href="#page381">381</a>-394</li></ul></li> + +<li>Postal reform needed, <a class="index" href="#page286">286</a></li> + +<li>Powder play, <a class="index" href="#page91">91</a>, <a class="index" href="#page94">94</a>, <a class="index" href="#page121">121</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page135">135</a></li> + +<li>Prayer, Moslem, <a class="index" href="#page69">69</a>, <a class="index" href="#page142">142</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page152">152</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>call to, <a class="index" href="#page69">69</a>, <a class="index" href="#page70">70</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Prisons and prisoners, miserable, <a class="index" href="#page233">233</a>-241; + <ul class="index1"><li>long terms, <a class="index" href="#page234">234</a>-237;</li> + <li>the lash, <a class="index" href="#page238">238</a>, <a class="index" href="#page246">246</a>;</li> + <li>the bastinado, <a class="index" href="#page255">255</a>;</li> + <li>Jews in, <a class="index" href="#page260">260</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Protection system, the, <a class="index" href="#page29">29</a>, <a class="index" href="#page242">242</a>-251; + <ul class="index1"><li>the need: story of Hamed Zirári, <a class="index" href="#page242">242</a>-246;</li> + <li>the search: story of Abd Allah bin Boo Shaïb es-Sálih, <a class="index" href="#page247">247</a>-251;</li> + <li>patent of, <a class="index" href="#page251">251</a>;</li> + <li>"farming," <a class="index" href="#page251">251</a> <i>note</i></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="R" id="R"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>R</li> + +<li>Rabat, Hassan tower at, <a class="index" href="#page347">347</a>, <a class="index" href="#page348">348</a></li> + +<li>Railways would be welcomed by the Sultan, <a class="index" href="#page297">297</a></li> + +<li>Raïsûli, rebel leader in the disaffected north, <a class="index" href="#page273">273</a>-275</li> + +<li>Rio Tinto copper-mines, <a class="index" href="#page368">368</a></li> + +<li>Ronda, corn-mills at, <a class="index" href="#page369">369</a></li> + +<li>Rosebery, Lord, on Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page387">387</a></li> + +<li>Rudolf II., 1604: his active policy respecting Moroccan affairs, <a class="index" href="#page280">280</a> <i>note</i></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="S" id="S"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>S</li> + +<li>Saragossa, the Aljaferia at, <a class="index" href="#page378">378</a></li> + +<li>School, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page97">97</a>, <a class="index" href="#page98">98</a></li> + +<li>Sevílle, <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>, <a class="index" href="#page346">346</a>-352, +<a class="index" href="#page367">367</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>Girálda tower, <a class="index" href="#page346">346</a>-348;</li> + <li>palace, El Kasar, <a class="index" href="#page349">349</a>-351;</li> + <li>royal "improvers" of Moorish work, <a class="index" href="#page350">350</a>;</li> + <li>capital of Charles V., <a class="index" href="#page352">352</a>;</li> + <li>Moorish remains at, <a class="index" href="#page367">367</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Sherley, Sir Anthony, 1604, adventurer and diplomatist, <a class="index" href="#page280">280</a> <i>note</i></li> + +<li>Shurfà Idreeseeïn dynasty founded by Mulai Idrees, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a></li> + +<li>Sidi Mohammed, son of Mulai Abd Allah V., <a class="index" href="#page11">11</a></li> + +<li>Si Marzak and his fair Azîzah, the loves of, <a class="index" href="#page160">160</a>-162</li> + +<li>Slave-markets, Marrákesh and Fez, <a class="index" href="#page179">179</a>-181</li> + +<li>Slavery in Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page8">8</a>, <a class="index" href="#page17">17</a>, <i>et passim</i>, +<a class="index" href="#page179">179</a>-190; + <ul class="index1"><li>sources of supply, <a class="index" href="#page180">180</a>;</li> + <li>girls for hareems, <a class="index" href="#page181">181</a>;</li> + <li>treatment fairly kind, <a class="index" href="#page181">181</a>, <a class="index" href="#page182">182</a>;</li> + <li>men have risen to high positions, <a class="index" href="#page182">182</a>;</li> + <li>use chiefly domestic, <a class="index" href="#page183">183</a>;</li> + <li>a slave-girl's cruel story, <a class="index" href="#page185">185</a>-190</li></ul></li> + +<li>Smeerah, quaint incident at, <a class="index" href="#page199">199</a></li> + +<li>Smin, use of, <a class="index" href="#page112">112</a>, <a class="index" href="#page131">131</a></li> + +<li>Smith, Sir Chas. Euan, <a class="index" href="#page206">206</a></li> + +<li>Snake-charming, <a class="index" href="#page137">137</a>, <a class="index" href="#page151">151</a>-158</li> + +<li>Social life, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page82">82</a>-87</li> + +<li>Spain, Moorish empire in, founded by Berbers, <a class="index" href="#page6">6</a>, <a class="index" href="#page54">54</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>footprints of Moors in, <a class="index" href="#page332">332</a>-379;</li> + <li>place-names and words of Arabic origin, <a class="index" href="#page333">333</a>, <a class="index" href="#page369">369</a>;</li> + <li>physiognomy of the people, <a class="index" href="#page335">335</a>;</li> + <li>habits and customs, <a class="index" href="#page335">335</a>;</li> + <li>salutations, <a class="index" href="#page336">336</a>;</li> + <li>narrow streets, <a class="index" href="#page336">336</a>;</li> + <li>forts and mosques (churches), <a class="index" href="#page337">337</a>;</li> + <li>the mosque at Córdova (<i>q.v.</i>);</li> + <li>Girálda and El Kasar at Sevílle (<i>q.v.</i>); </li> + <li>the Alhambra at Granáda (<i>q.v.</i>); </li> + <li>other Moorish towns, villages, castles, and remains, <a class="index" href="#page366">366</a>-379;</li> + <li>women of, at the battle of Jaca, <a class="index" href="#page378">378</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Sports and pastimes, Moorish: + <ul class="index1"><li>active, <a class="index" href="#page96">96</a>, <a class="index" href="#page133">133</a>-137;</li> + <li>passive, <a class="index" href="#page138">138</a>-150, <a class="index" href="#page151">151</a>-158, + <a class="index" href="#page159">159</a>-165</li></ul></li> + +<li>Stamps and stamp-dealers, <a class="index" href="#page287">287</a></li> + +<li>Story-teller, the, <a class="index" href="#page122">122</a>, <a class="index" href="#page137">137</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page138">138</a>-150; + <ul class="index1"><li>Mulai Abd el Káder and the Monk of Monks, <a class="index" href="#page141">141</a>-148</li></ul></li> +</ul> + + +<a name="page400" id="page400"></a><span class="left1">[page 400]</span> + +<a class="index" name="T" id="T"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>T</li> + +<li>Tafilált, home for discarded Sultanas, <a class="index" href="#page73">73</a></li> + +<li>Tangier, English cede possession of, <a class="index" href="#page9">9</a>, <a class="index" href="#page383">383</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>drunkenness and vice, <a class="index" href="#page41">41</a>;</li> + <li>North African Mission, <a class="index" href="#page42">42</a>;</li> + <li>shopping in, <a class="index" href="#page118">118</a>-124;</li> + <li>market-place, <a class="index" href="#page121">121</a>-123;</li> + <li>Sunday market, <a class="index" href="#page125">125</a>-132;</li> + <li>salt-pans, <a class="index" href="#page129">129</a>;</li> + <li>English Church at, <a class="index" href="#page132">132</a>;</li> + <li>starting-place for Mekka pilgrims, <a class="index" href="#page192">192</a>, <a class="index" href="#page196">196</a>;</li> + <li>residence of ambassadors, <a class="index" href="#page205">205</a>;</li> + <li>gaol at, <a class="index" href="#page233">233</a>;</li> + <li>many Frenchmen at, <a class="index" href="#page300">300</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Tarifa, Moorish remains at, <a class="index" href="#page366">366</a></li> + +<li>Tarragona, cathedral of, <a class="index" href="#page373">373</a></li> + +<li>Tea, making, <a class="index" href="#page86">86</a>, <a class="index" href="#page103">103</a></li> + +<li>Tilework of Algeria, <a class="index" href="#page316">316</a></li> + +<li>Toledo, <a class="index" href="#page336">336</a>, <a class="index" href="#page374">374</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>Moorish hydraulists, <a class="index" href="#page374">374</a>;</li> + <li>Ez-Zarkal's water-clocks, <a class="index" href="#page374">374</a>;</li> + <li>cathedral, <a class="index" href="#page374">374</a>;</li> + <li>sword-manufacture, <a class="index" href="#page375">375</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Tortosa, ancient pirate stronghold, <a class="index" href="#page372">372</a></li> + +<li>Tripoli, city and people, <a class="index" href="#page326">326</a>-331; + <ul class="index1"><li>the Turkish element in, <a class="index" href="#page326">326</a>;</li> + <li>viewed from Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page326">326</a>-331;</li> + <li>mosques, <a class="index" href="#page328">328</a>;</li> + <li>irrigation, <a class="index" href="#page330">330</a></li></ul></li> + +<li>Tunis, city, <a class="index" href="#page321">321</a>, <a class="index" href="#page322">322</a></li> + +<li>Tunisia, <a class="index" href="#page299">299</a>, <a class="index" href="#page308">308</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>viewed from Morocco, <a class="index" href="#page318">318</a>-325;</li> + <li>under French rule, <a class="index" href="#page318">318</a>-320;</li> + <li>Jews in, <a class="index" href="#page319">319</a>;</li> + <li>Arabs in, <a class="index" href="#page322">322</a>;</li> + <li>Moors in, <a class="index" href="#page322">322</a>;</li> + <li>women in, <a class="index" href="#page325">325</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="Va" id="Va"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>V</li> + +<li>Valencia, ancient Moorish paradise, <a class="index" href="#page372">372</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="W" id="W"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>W</li> + +<li>Water-carriers, Moorish, <a class="index" href="#page132">132</a>, <a class="index" href="#page149">149</a></li> + +<li>Water-clocks, Ez-Zarkal's, <a class="index" href="#page374">374</a></li> + +<li>Wazzân, Shareef of, present representative of Shurfá Idreeseeïn dynasty, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page296">296</a></li> + +<li>Wilhelm II. in Tangier Bay, <a class="index" href="#page281">281</a></li> + +<li>Women of Morocco, occupations, <a class="index" href="#page58">58</a>, <a class="index" href="#page62">62</a>, +<a class="index" href="#page77">77</a>, <a class="index" href="#page111">111</a>, <a class="index" href="#page134">134</a>; + <ul class="index1"><li>seclusion, <a class="index" href="#page64">64</a>, <a class="index" href="#page77">77</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page83">83</a>, <a class="index" href="#page103">103</a>, <a class="index" href="#page107">107</a>;</li> + <li>subservient position, <a class="index" href="#page71">71</a>-81, <a class="index" href="#page107">107</a>;</li> + <li>possibilities of influence, <a class="index" href="#page73">73</a>;</li> + <li>marriages, <a class="index" href="#page75">75</a>, <a class="index" href="#page77">77</a>, <a class="index" href="#page88">88</a>-93;</li> + <li>divorce, <a class="index" href="#page76">76</a>;</li> + <li>social visits, <a class="index" href="#page82">82</a>-87;</li> + <li>wearing apparel, <a class="index" href="#page84">84</a>;</li> + <li>excellent cooks, <a class="index" href="#page85">85</a>, <a class="index" href="#page105">105</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page111">111</a>, <a class="index" href="#page112">112</a>;</li> + <li>slaves, <a class="index" href="#page181">181</a>, <a class="index" href="#page183">183</a>, + <a class="index" href="#page185">185</a>, <a class="index" href="#page190">190</a>; </li> + <li>women in Tunisia, <a class="index" href="#page325">325</a>;</li> + <li>in Tripoli, <a class="index" href="#page329">329</a></li></ul></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="Xa" id="Xa"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>X</li> + +<li>Xeres, Old, Moorish citadel, <a class="index" href="#page367">367</a></li> +</ul> + +<a class="index" name="Z" id="Z"></a> +<ul class="index"> + +<li>Z</li> + +<li>Zarhôn, most sacred town, <a class="index" href="#page5">5</a></li> + +<li>Zawîah of Sîdi Abd er-Rahmán, <a class="index" href="#page316">316</a></li> + +<li>Zummeetah, "mixed," quaint story of, <a class="index" href="#page198">198</a></li> +</ul> + +<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> +<h4>THE END</h4> + +<br /><br /> + +<p class="center">PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.</p> + + + + + + + + +<br /> + +<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + +<table align="center" summary="note"> +<tr> + <td class="note"> +Transcriber's Note:<br /><br /> +Page 6: Missing accent added to Seville (Sevílle).<br /> +Page 36: corrected mis-matched quotes.<br /> +Page 104: 'whch' corrected to 'which'.<br /> +Page 128: 'beats' changed to 'beasts', to fit context.<br /> +Page 130: 'flead' [sic] <br /> +Page 153: corrected mis-matched quotes. ("And when at home? ')<br /> +Page 185: 'Rabhah' is spelled 'Rabbah' in previous illustration.<br /> +Page 198: sic: carraway/caraway]<br /> +Page 263: changed comma for period at sentence end. (sighted, This)<br /> +Page 273: 'through' changed to 'though', to fit context.<br /> +Page 274: 'accetpance' changed to 'acceptance'.<br /> +Page 284: 'territoral' changed to 'territorial'.<br /> +Page 289: carcase/carcass, both are correct: Oxford Dictionary.<br /> +Page 299: sic: instal/install.<br /> +Page 346: added missing accent to III <span class="sc">Seville</span> (<span class="sc">Sevílle</span>), for conformity. + (II <span class="sc">Córdova</span> is accented).<br /> +Page 349: added missing accent to Giralda (Girálda), for conformity.<br /> +Page 353: corrected 'architectual' to 'architectural'.<br /> +Page 372: comma corrected to period. (a Moorish cistern hard by.)<br /> +Page 296: colon corrected to semicolon. (Moorish worshippers in, 342; )<br /> +Page 296: added comma (Debts in Morocco, how settled, 30-34)<br /> +Page 377: added closing quote to "Castle of Ayûb.<br /> +Page 395: 'Bobadil' changed to 'Boabdil'.<br /> +Page 395: removed extraneous '378' reference for Charlemagne.<br /> +Page 397: removed extraneous entry (368) for 'kufic inscriptions'; changed '575' to '375'.<br /> +Pages 398, 399: Missing accent added to Seville (Sevílle).<br /> +Page 399: '198' changed to '199' for reference to 'Smeerah'.<br /> +Page 399: missing accent added to Cordova (Córdova).<br /> +Page 399: comma added after 'remains' (other Moorish towns, villages, + castles, and remains, 366-379;).<br /> +Page 399: Changed '373' to '374' for reference to "Toledo'.<br /> +Page 400: comma added after 'occupations' (Women of Morocco, occupations, + 58, 62, 77, 111, 134;). <br /> + + + + +<br /> + +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<br /><br /> + + + + + + + + + +<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Life in Morocco and Glimpses Beyond, by +Budgett Meakin + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIFE IN MOROCCO AND GLIMPSES *** + +***** This file should be named 18764-h.htm or 18764-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/7/6/18764/ + +Produced by Michael Ciesielski, Lesley Halamek and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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