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diff --git a/18740.txt b/18740.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9ab9c70 --- /dev/null +++ b/18740.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3804 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Rouen, It's History and Monuments, by Theodore Licquet + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Rouen, It's History and Monuments + A Guide to Strangers + +Author: Theodore Licquet + +Release Date: July 2, 2006 [EBook #18740] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUEN, IT'S HISTORY AND MONUMENTS *** + + + + +Produced by R. Cedron, Taavi Kalju and the Online +Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by the Biblioth?que nationale de France +(BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + + + + + + +ROUEN + +ITS HISTORY AND MONUMENTS; + +A + +GUIDE TO STRANGERS + + +BY THEOD. LICQUET, +MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF ROUEN, ETC. + + +With a Map of the Town and Five Views. + + +ABRIDGED, AND TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH +BY M.D.G. + + +ROUEN: +EDWARD FRERE, QUAI DE PARIS, +Near the suspension Bridge. +MDCCCXL. + + +Price: 2 Francs. + + +_IN THE PRESS:_ + + +Histoire du Parlemant de Normandie, precedee d'un Essai historique sur +l'echiquier; par A. Floquet. 6 vols. 8vo. Price, 36 fr. + +Chronique des Abbes de Saint-Ouen, publiee d'apres un MS. de la +Bibliotheque du Roi, par Francisque Michel, 4to, with a view of the +abbey. Price, 10 fr. + + +Printed by I.-S. LEFEVRE, successor to F. BAUDRY, 20, rue des Carmes, +Rouen. + + + + +Rouen. + + + + +HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. + + +Caesar, in his Commentaries does not speak of Rouen; Pomponius Mela, does +not mention it in his Geography; Ptolemy is the first author who has +noticed it. This observation alone will shew the absurdity of the +numerous etymologies assigned to its name of Rothomagus, of which we +have made Rouen. The least unlikely are those which have been taken from +the primitive language of the country; but, even then we can only form +conjectures more or less vague, as, in deriving Rothomagus from two +celtic words, some have considered that this name signifies a great +town; others, a town on the bank of a river; while others again a town +where duties were paid. + +Ptolemy then gives us a commencement to the history of Rouen. In his +lifetime, that is to say, during the first part of the second-century, +Rouen bore the name of Rothomagus; it was the capital of the country of +the Velocasses. + +If Rouen, as a town of Gaul, is little known to us, Rouen as a Roman +town is more so. Its existence is no longer doubtful; its importance +even is proved. All suppositions join to make one think that the Romans +were the first who erected external fortifications round the town. +Remains of walls evidently built by that people, were discovered in 1789 +in the cellars of a house which had been built on the edge of the first +ditch[1]. These buildings extended westward even under the church of +Saint-Lo, and it is very probable that they joined towards the east with +other remains of roman architecture, found in digging the foundations of +another house, no 2, rue de la Chaine. + +Here then, is the first boundary of Rouen under the Romans, and +drawn-out by them: _on the south_ the Seine, the waters of which at this +time, came as high as the line occupied at present by the rue des +Bonnetiers, the place de la Calende, that of Notre-Dame on its southern +portion, and thus along to the extremity of the rue aux Ours. _On the +north_, the ditch which existed the whole length of the streets de +l'Aumone, and Fosses-Louis-VIII, that is to say, from the river Robec at +the east, to the rue de la Poterne at the west. From the latter point +draw a line in a southern direction passing across the Mew-Market, the +rue Massacre and the rue des Vergetiers, to the rue aux Ours and you +will have the _western limit_. The _eastern limit_ is naturally marked +out by the course of the Robec. The town maintained this boundary till +the Xth century, the period of the establishment of Rollon, in this +portion of Neustria to which the Normans gave their name. + +I have already said, that Rouen, was an important town under the Romans, +and this truth is proved, by the fact. It does not figures, it is true, +in the notice of the dignities of the Empire, as the seat of a superior +magistrate, but, nevertheless it is spoken of, as a town having a +garrison; and, it was there that the _praefectus militum Ursariensium_ +or, as we should say in English, the colonel of the regiment of the +Ursarians, resided. + +The ecclesiastical annals also, prove the importance of Rouen at this +period. We find, in fact, during the first ages of christianity, the +apostles coming into Gaul, going to Rouen, and fixing their abode in a +principal town that the sacred word might be more easily spread thro' +the surrounding country. + +As Saint-Nicaise did not come to Rouen, we must consider Saint-Mellon, +as its most ancient bishop. The erection, or the consecration of a first +chapel in Rouen, under the patronage of the virgin, is the only +important event which the life of this prelate contains. As to the +destruction of a temple dedicated to the pretended idol Roth, I think I +have proved in an other work[2], first, that there never existed an idol +of that name, neither was the temple situated on the ground occupied by +the church of Saint-Lo; secondly, that this temple was demolished by +Saint-Romain, nearly four hundred years later. + +Nothing very remarkable happened at Rouen, under the successors of +Saint-Mellon, until Saint-Victrice. But, here commences a new era for +the town. Its population increases, its reputation extends, the temples +of the true god are multiplied; even Saint-Victrice himself works in +their erection: "He rolls the stones with his own hands, he carries them +on his shoulders." + +This town continued its career peaceably during nearly a century, until +Saint-Godard succeeded to the episcopate. Then we come to a great +historical transition. + +Roman power had been long struggling against the encroachments of the +Francs in Gaul. Clovis, conquers the provinces situated between the +Somme, the Seine and the Aisne; the monarchy commences, and Rouen +becomes a French town. + +To Saint-Godard who died in 529, Flavius succeeded the same year. The +first foundation by Clotaire I, of the abbey of Saint-Peter, now +Saint-Ouen, about the year 540, is attributed to him. + +After Flavius, came Pretextat, whose name alone reminds us of those of +two women, unfortunately too celebrated, Fredegonde and Brunehaut. The +latter had been exiled to Rouen, by Chilperic, king of Soissons. +Merovee, son of Chilperic, loved Brunehaut and was loved by her. He came +to Rouen, and married his mistress; Pretextat blessed their union. +Chilperic arrives and the two lovers take refuge in the church of +Saint-Martin-sur-Renelle, a wooden building, on the wall of the town. It +is to Gregory of Tours that we owe this information which is valuable, +in as much, as it makes us acquainted with the limits of Rouen on the +north-west side at this period. + +Fredegonde did not pardon Pretextat; she caused him to be murdered, +during mass, in the Cathedral. + +The episcopate of Melance and of Hidulfe, the successors to Pretextat, +offers no very particular circumstances. That of Saint-Romain, is much +more remarkable, for the destruction of heathen temples, and the famous +miracle of the _Gargouille_, which, gave birth to the privilege not less +famous, which the chapter possessed of setting at liberty a prisoner +every year. It is thought generally, however, that Saint-Romain, +constructed one of the churches, which succeeded each other on the site +of the Cathedral, but, they were deceived who have said that this bishop +extirpated paganism from Rouen, and from the province. Saint-Ouen, who +came after Saint-Romain, found the people clownish, superstitious, and +idolatrous, in consequence of the negligence of some bishops, his +predecessors. The inhabitants of the neighbouring country, were coarse, +cruel and dishonest; morals and the sciences were cultivated only among +the higher classes of society. We find in the preface to the life of +Saint-Eloi by Saint-Ouen, that, even in the VIIth century, they read +authors of whose works nothing now remains. + +Saint-Ouen, founded or enriched a great many religious establishments in +Rouen and its environs. It was under his episcopate, that a monument was +first raised to Saint-Nicaise within the walls of Rouen. He also caused +to be built the celebrated abbeys of Fontenelle (since Saint-Wandrille), +Jumieges, and Saint-Austreberthe. + +In the time of this archbishop, there was a state prison near the end of +the rue de la Poterne. It was in this prison that Saint-Ouen, having +been deceived by the mayor of the palace Ebroin, caused Philibert the +first Abbot of Jumieges to be confined on a false accusation of the +crime of high-treason. + +To Saint-Ouen, Ansbert succeeded in 683; at this time doubtless the +mechanical arts were not very far advanced in Rouen, since the new +bishop, wishing to erect a rich mausoleum to his predecessor, sent for +workmen from different provinces. + +According to the monk Aigrad, a great famine took place in Rouen and its +neighbourhood, during the episcopate of Ansbert, who caused the +treasures of the church to be given, for the relief of the poor. + +Here, the history of Rouen is lost in obscurity; our materials are +reduced, we may almost say, to the mere list of bishops, until the time +when the north-men shewed themselves in this country. From the year 841, +when they appeared for the first time at the mouth of the Seine, until +the year 912, the period of the treaty of Saint-Claire-sur-Epte, Rouen, +and its environs presented nothing but a scene of carnage, fire, and, +slaughter. Strangers devouring the country; the villages deserted; the +population massacred; the towns half destroyed, every where discord, +hatred, avarice, and rapacity; all excesses united: such is the picture +of the country at that period. At last Rollo, is created duke of +Normandy; the proud Norwegian, becomes the benefactor of the country, to +which he had so long proved a scourge. The population reappears; an +active police is established, robberies are put a stop to; no more +plunderers exist on the highways, or thieves in the towns. Rouen, rises +from amidst its ruins, its monuments are repaired, its size increases, +its political influence is becoming immense. + +The second boundary is due to Rollo, the first duke, and to his son +Guillaume Longue-Epee. They confined the waters of the Seine in a +narrower bed. Several churches, such as Saint-Martin-de-la-Roquette, +Saint-Clement, Saint-Stephen and Saint-Eloi, which had till then been +situated on small islands, were united to the main land, the portion +which had been gained from the river, received the name of +_Terres-Neuves_. The limits of the town remained the same on the north, +east and west. + +Under the first succeeding dukes, the town extended westward, as far as +the Old-Market place. The _porte Cauchoise_ was erected about the +beginning of the XIth century, that is to say, under Richard II. + +The fourth boundary was effected under the last dukes. The town extended +on the north to the height of the rue Pincedos: on the east, to the rue +de la Chevre. These two streets occupy the ground on which the ditches +were situated at that time. + +A very short time after, Philip-Augustus, who had just taken Rouen, and +all Normandy from Jean-Sans-Terre, caused the old castle to be built, +which was included within the interior of the town, in the middle of the +XIIIth century; the fifth boundary was made in the reign of +Saint-Louis. Rouen was then enlarged by the greater portion of the +ground which forms the parishes of Saint-Patrice, Saint-Nicaise, +Saint-Vivien, and Saint-Maclou. The gates of Martainville, Saint-Hilaire +and Bouvreuil were then built. + +A sixth enlargement took place about the middle of the XIVth century. +The monastery of the Jacobins, which now forms a portion of the +prefecture, was enclosed within the walls of the town, as also the +Church of Saint-Peter-le-Portier, so that it obliged them to put the +porte Cauchoise farther out. On the east, the town was enlarged by the +quarter of the Marequerie. + +It is not probably to Rollo, the first duke that we owe the institution +of the exchequer. The first trace of it, is only found under +William-the-Conqueror. Perhaps even, it was only known under his son +Henry Ist "the King Duke." Ancient writers have thought that an +exchequer existed in England before the conquest. The learned Madox, on +the contrary, (vol. 1st page 177 and following) declares, that he has +not found in any document prior to William's expedition, the word +scaccarium (or exchequer). But he finds it shortly after that time, from +which it would appear natural to conclude that, that institution had +been carried over by that prince. The exchequer was removed sometimes to +Rouen, at other times to Caen, and sometimes to Falaise. Louis XIIth +fixed this sovereign court at Rouen, in 1449, and opened it on the 1st +october of the same year. Francis Ist raised the exchequer into a +parliament in the year 1515. It was interdicted in the month of August +1540, but the 7th January 1541, was reinstated. + +Thick walls, deep ditches, and formidable towers, a great many turrets, +bastions, casemates, and fortified gates, made Rouen an important place, +before the revolution: omitting the different sieges, which it had to +sustain from the Normans, we must notice in 949 those by Otho, emperor +of Germany, Louis IVth, king of France, and Arnould count of Flanders; +that in 1204 by Philip-Augustus, 1418, by Henry Vth king of England; +that in 1449, after which, Charles VIIth retook the town from the +English; lastly, that of 1591, by Henry IVth. In all these sieges, and +many more which I have not mentioned, the inhabitants of Rouen always +gave proofs of great valour and sometimes of a resignation without +example. + +All the fortifications of the town have disappeared since the +revolution; its ancient appearance, is now only found in the interior, +in its religious monuments and a few houses, which time or the hand of +man appears to have forgotten. + +Before 1790, Rouen contained thirty seven parochial churches and about +as many religious communities of both sexes. It now only contains six +parochial churches, and eight chapels of ease, with a church for the use +of protestants. + +Rouen is situated on a gentle slope, on the right bank of the Seine, +which forms the southern boundary; the suburb of Saint-Sever, is +situated on the left bank. The geographical position of the town is the +49 deg. 26' 27'' of north latitude and 1 deg. 14' 16'' longitude, from the +meridian of Paris. The sun rises and sets about five minutes later at +Rouen, than at Paris. The length of Rouen without the suburbs, is one +kilometre and three hundred metres, or about the third part of a league, +from the south extremity of the rue Grand-Pont, to the north extremity +of the rue Beauvoisine. Its length from east to west is a quarter of a +league, from one extremity to the other of the places Cauchoise and +Saint-Hilaire. The circumference of the town by the quays does not +exceed six kilometres or one league and a half. + +Rouen, by its home and foreign trade, is one of the most important towns +of the kingdom; the numerous manufactories which it contains, have +caused it to be surnamed the Manchester of France[3]. Rouen, is the see +of an archbishopric, whose metropolitan church has for suffragans the +bishoprics of Bayeux, Evreux, Seez and Coutances. It is the chief place +of the fourteenth military division; the principal town of the +departement of the Seine-Inferieure. + +There is besides at Rouen, a cour royale, a tribunal de premiere +instance, six courts of justices of the peace; a chamber and tribunal +of commerce, a counsel of prudent men for the arbitration of small +differences, principally between the manufacturers and their workmen; +boards of direction for the direct and indirect taxes, for the customs +and for the registry of domains, and a mint. Amongst the principal +public buildings are two large hospitals, a handsome custom-house, the +exchange, a magnificent lunatic asylum (in Saint-Sever), a large and +small seminary, a royal college, nineteen public schools, a great many +elementary schools for children of both sexes, and two principal +prisons. + +Lastly, this town has thirty three barriers, three covered markets, +eight open markets, twenty one public places, about seventeen thousand +houses, and more than four hundred and seventy streets, and contains a +population of about ninety thousand inhabitants. + +[Footnote 1: It is the sugar refinery of Mr Sautelet, rue des Carmes, +opposite the place of the same name.] + +[Footnote 2: _Recherches sur l'histoire religieuse, morale et litteraire +de Rouen, depuis les premiers temps jusqu'a Rollon_. Rouen, J. Frere, +1826, 8vo.] + +[Footnote 3: The principal filatures, manufactories and bleaching +establishments, are situated in the suburb of Saint-Sever, and in the +valleys of Deville, Bapeaume and Maromme. Amongst the principal stuffs, +which are wrought in its manufactories, we must mention its +_rouenneries_, the general name given to all those striped or checked +cotton, stuffs which are used for womens dresses.] + + +[Illustration: Cathedrale.] + + + + +RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS. + +PAROCHIAL CHURCHES. + + +CATHEDRAL. + +All historians attribute the erection, or at least the consecration of +the first christian chapel in Rouen to Saint-Mellon. They agree also in +placing that chapel on a portion of the ground occupied at present by +the Cathedral. To point out exactly the place, would be next to +impossible; but we must necessarily suppose it to the north end of the +present edifice. The tower of Saint-Romain, the foundation of which is +probably the remains of one of the churches which succeeded each other +on this spot, and which, is assuredly the most ancient part of the whole +edifice, would of itself, prove what I say. It will not be doubted, when +we remember that the waters of the Seine, during the time of +Saint-Mellon (260 to 311), and even seven centuries afterwards, reached +as high as the place, which is known at present by the name of _la +Calende_, that is to say almost at the base of the present Cathedral on +its southern side. + +The Cathedral, which was pillaged in the year 841, was not, according to +all probability, destroyed then; or, we must suppose (that which is +hardly possible), that it had been rebuilt in the interval before the +year 912, the period of the baptism of Rollo in this church. Being +exposed to continual acts of devastation from pirates, the inhabitants +fled in all directions, and did not think of building temples; and as +Rollo, having been baptized in this Cathedral, in the year 912, made +most magnificent presents immediately after the ceremony, it is clear, +that the edifice had been only plundered and not destroyed. + +About the end of the Xth century, Richard Ist caused the Cathedral to +be enlarged. The archbishop Robert continued the improvements. + +Guillaume-le-Batard placed Maurille in the archiepiscopal see, in the +year 1055. Maurille finished the Cathedral, and caused to be erected the +stone pyramid which bears his name, and in the year 1063, he dedicated +the temple in the presence of William, and the bishops of Bayeux, +Avranches, Lisieux, Evreux, Seez and Coutances. + +In 1117, this Cathedral was struck by the electric fluid. + +In 1200, the metropolitan church was destroyed by fire. Jean-Sans-Terre, +duke of Normandy and king of England, assigned funds for the +reconstruction of the edifice. + +It is then from that period that the actual Cathedral dates. + +I need not add that this immense edifice, such as we see it at present, +is the work of several centuries, beginning in the XIIIth and finishing +in the XVIth, excepting that portion which forms the base of the tower +of Saint-Romain, and which is much more ancient. + +The length of the Cathedral, in the inside, from the great portal to the +extremity of the chapel of the Virgin, is four hundred and eight feet +(about four hundred and fifty english); the chapel of the virgin is +eighty eight feet in length; the choir is one hundred and ten, and the +nave two hundred and ten. The entire breadth of the edifice from one +wall to the other is ninety seven feet two inches; namely, the nave +twenty seven feet; thickness of each pillar, seven feet eight inches, +each aisle fourteen feet, the chapels thirteen feet five inches. The +height of the nave is eighty four feet; that of the aisles is forty two +feet, the transept is one hundred and sixty four feet in length, by +twenty six in breadth. In the centre is a lantern, at the height of one +hundred and sixty feet under the key-stone, and it is supported by four +large pillars, each being thirty eight feet in circumference, and +composed of thirty one columns, which are grouped together; above the +arcades of the nave, there is a very narrow gallery. The edifice is +lighted by one hundred and thirty windows. + +There are amongst the stained glass windows, several which deserve to +be, particularly noticed. I will here point out their places, after the +work of E.H. Langlois, on stained glass, and that of Gilbert on the +Cathedral[4]. + +"Left aisle, in going up, opposite the fourth arcade of the nave: upper +panes occupied by several subjects taken from the life of saint John the +baptist, saint Nicolas, etc. We may remark curriers or tanners, and, +near a sort of gallery supported by columns, a stone cutter and a +sculptor making the capital of a column. A little farther up, we +perceive a church supported by arches, in the construction of which, +several masons are busily employed. Near it, is a woman kneeling, and +holding up with both her hands the plan of a gothic window. + +Same aisle, in going up, and opposite the fourth arcade of the nave: a +window occupied with subjects relative to the life of saint Sever. + +Left aisle of the choir, opposite the fourth arcade: a window entirely +occupied with the life of saint Julian-the-hospitaller. + +Same aisle, between the semi-circular lateral chapel and the chapel of +the Virgin: two windows, representing the life of Joseph, the son of +Jacob. We may still read, although with difficulty, the name of the +painter and glazier. It is inscribed on a phylactery, in the following +manner: + +CLEMENS VITREARIUS CARNOTENSIS M ... + +On the other side of the choir, between the chapel of the Virgin and the +semi-circular lateral chapel: two windows, one representing the Passion; +the other the life of a saint. He is almost entirely represented naked +from the head to the waist, and on horseback. Semi-circular chapel of +the southern transept in the corner of the window, the martyrdom of +saint Laurent." + +All these windows date from the end of the XIIIth century. The most +curious is that representing the life of saint Julian-the-hospitaller. + +The Cathedral contains likewise several fine specimens of windows of the +time of the _renaissance_. We must remark, especially, those which +represent the life of saint Romain, in the chapel dedicated to that +bishop and those which decorate the chapel of saint Stephen. We +perceive, in the latter, saint Thomas touching the wound of +Jesus-Christ; Christ preaching in the desert; Christ appearing to +Mary-Magdalen; etc. + +The edifice is also lighted by three large roses (circular windows); two +at the extremities of the transept and the other above the organ. Of +these three windows the western is by far the finest. In the centre of +it, the Eternal Father is represented as surrounded by a multitude of +angels having each different musical instruments, around it are ten +figures of angels, each holding an instrument of the Passion. + +The present organ of the Cathedral is a large sixteen feet one, and is +placed beneath the western circular window. It was made by Lefevre, the +celebrated organ maker in Rouen, in 1760. + +The choir is surrounded by fourteen pillars. Before 1430, its upper part +was only lighted by a small number of narrow windows. Since that time, +it has been lighted by the fifteen large windows, which we now see. In +1467, under the cardinal d'Estouteville, the chapter caused stalls to be +made, which are very curiously sculptured. + +A stone screen, of a style which harmonized with the rest of the edifice +formerly ornamented the entrance to the choir: In 1777, it was replaced +by the present. This screen, notwithstanding its beauty, is +unfortunately not in a style correspondent with the rest of the church. +The upper gallery is surmounted by a gilt figure of Christ, made of +lead, by Clodion. Between the pillars, we remark two marble altars, each +ornamented with a white marble statue. That to the right is the statue +of the Virgin, a much esteemed sculpture by Lecomte. This altar has +retained the name _autel da vaeu_ (or the altar of the vow) since 1637, +on account of a grand procession, which took place at that time, to +obtain the cessation of the plague. The procession, in reentering the +church stopped before this altar, on which the civic authorities placed +a silver lamp, weighing forty marks. The statue to the left is that of +saint Cecile, the patroness of musicians. This sculpture is also from +the chisel of Clodion. Both altars are ornamented with handsome +bas-reliefs, the one to the right representing, Jesus-Christ placed in +the tomb; that to the left, Saint Cecile, at the moment of her death. + +The actual existence of a library in the Cathedral, may be traced back +as far as the year 1424. The canons, caused to be erected, for that +purpose, over the cellar of the chapter house, the large building which +we see at present. It was about one hundred feet long by twenty five +broad. They ascended to it by a handsome gothic staircase, erected by +order of the cardinal William d'Estouteville, during the second half of +the XVth century, and placed in the corner of the northern transept. +This library was plundered and destroyed by the calvinists, in 1562, +but, was restored by the archbishop Francis de Harley. + +In 1788, the chapter ordered an additional story to be built over the +library, destined to receive the records of the church. The higher +portion of the staircase which conducts to this story, was erected in +1789, and in the same style as the rest of it. + +As far as 1112 the cathedral possessed several manuscripts, which were +destroyed in the fire of 1200. + +A great portion of the books of the cathedral are now deposited in the +public library at the town-hall. + +There are twenty five chapels in the circumference of the Cathedral. The +most spacious, and the first to the right on entering, is that of +Saint-Stephen, _la grande eglise_. It was formerly the _Parish church_ +of Notre-Dame. + +At the extremity of this aisle of the nave in going up, is the chapel of +_petit Saint-Romain_, where the tomb of Rollo, the first duke is +situated. This prince had formerly been buried in the sanctuary, near +the great altar, which, at the time, was situated at the higher end of +the present nave. The altar having been removed farther back, the +remains of Rollo were deposited in the corner arcade where they now are. +Above the arcade is the following inscription on a table of black +marble, of which the following is a translation. + + Here lies Rollo, the first duke, the founder and father of + Normandy, of which he was at first the terror and the scourge, but + afterwards the restorer. Baptised in 912 by Francon, archbishop of + Rouen, and died in 917[5]. His remains had formerly been deposited + in the ancient sanctuary, where is at present the upper end of the + nave. The altar having been removed to another place, the remains + of the prince were deposited here, by the blessed Maurille, + archbishop of Rouen, in the year 1063. + +On the opposite aisle, and exactly opposite the chapel we hare just +left, is that of Saint-Anne. The remains of Guillaume-Longue-Epee, the +son and successor of Rollo, who was assassinated in an island of the +Somme, by order of Arnould, count of Flanders, are deposited in this +chapel. His remains are placed like those of his father, in an arched +corner, above which, is the following inscription, which we translate +thus. + + Here lies Guillaume-Longue-Epee, son of Rollo, duke de Normandy, + killed by treason in the year 944. His remains had formerly been + deposited in the ancient sanctuary, where is at present the upper + end of the nave. The altar having been removed to an other place, + the remains of the prince were deposited in this place by the + blessed Maurille, in the year 1063. + +What has become, of those funeral monuments, erected, formerly in the +choir of the Cathedral, in honour of kings, princes or warriors? Who +will assure us that the inscriptions placed at present in the sanctuary, +point out to us, the illustrious dead whose tombs we seek? Where is the +heart of Charles Vth, which was deposited in the middle of the +sanctuary? That of Richard-Coeur-de-Lion, to the right of the high +altar? The remains of Bedford, the son, the brother and the uncle of +kings, of that Bedford, who, according to Pommeraye, was interred to the +left of the high altar, and whose tomb stone they now shew us, behind +the altar, which tells us that he was interred on the right side of it? +Of all the tombs which existed formerly in the choir of the Cathedral, +there remains but three modern inscriptions on marble slabs, which have +been placed by chance. These three inscriptions are those of +Richard-Coeur-de-Lion, Henry the Younger one of his brothers and the +duke of Bedford. On the 30th of july 1838, being guided by historical +traditions, they had the idea to dig at the spot marked by the +inscription to Richard, and discovered the statue which formerly +decorated his tomb. This statue, which is hewn out of a single block of +very fine free stone, has been deposited provisionally in the chapel of +the Virgin. It is six feet and a half long, and represents king Richard +in a recumbent posture, his head supported by a square cushion, wearing +a crown enriched with precious stones; his feet are supported by a +crouching lion. On his left hand was a sceptre of which we only see the +remains; the right hand has disappeared. The princes, mantle descends +nearly to his ancles, in wide folds. It is over a tunic which reaches up +to the neck, and which is bound round the body, by an embroidered belt +of which the end hangs in front below the knee. These searches were +continued on the 31st of july, and the heart of Richard was found; it +was enclosed in a double box of lead, and what must leave no doubt of +this precious discovery; the following inscription in letters of the +time was engraved on the lid of the box: + + HIC: JACET: COR: RICARDI: REGIS: + ANGLORUM: + +The heart has been provisionally deposited in a private press in the +sacristy. These researches were skilfully directed by Mr Deville. + +Let us now enter the chapel of the Virgin, and admire the treasure which +it contains. + +To the left on entering, is a monument of stone, without inscription or +statue. It is that of Peter de Breze, count of Maulevrier, grand +senechal of Anjou, Poitou and Normandy. He was killed at the battle of +Montlhery, the 16th july 1465. This monument is remarkable by its +graceful proportions, its elegance and the delicacy of its architecture. +It is composed of two pilasters of the arabesque style, supporting a +pointed arcade, surmounted by a pediment; the whole of it is in open +work and decorated on all sides with the initials PB, in gothic letters. +The niche of the tomb is about five feet wide by about four deep. Its +height is six feet four inches to the key of the vault, and decorated +with a shield bearing the arms of the deceased. Before the revolution, +the same shield, decorated the three pannels of the base of the +monument. We may still perceive the trace of the destroyers chisel. The +entire height of the mausoleum is seventeen feet. The points of the two +pilasters rise two feet and a half or three feet above the rest; which +would make the total height of the monument of about twenty feet. + +The name of Peter de Breze, is honourably mentioned in our annals at the +time of the conquest of Normandy. It was he who received the +capitulation of the castles of Harcourt, Gisors, Chateau-Gaillard. It +was he, who first entered Rouen, when that town opened its gates to +Charles VIIth[6]. The statue of Peter de Breze and that of his wife, +Jeanne du Bec-Crespin, were formerly on the monument; but they do not +now exist and no one knows when they have been taken away. + +Next to it, is the monument of Louis de Breze, grand-son of the latter, +who died in july 1531. The celebrated Diana of Poitiers caused this +mausoleum to be raised to his memory. The body of the monument is +supported by four columns of black marble, with capitals and bases of +white alabaster. Between these columns is a coffin, on which the white +marble statue of the grand senechal, is laid. The deceased is stretched +on his back, his features are convulsed: one may see that he has just +expired. The body is quite naked, the left hand is laid on his breast. +The cenotaph is of black marble. The perfection of this sculpture causes +it to be attributed to the celebrated Jean Goujon. Behind this statue, +there was formerly another of the same personage, he was represented in +the dress of a count, with the collar of Saint-Michael, and a crown on +his head. We now only find the marks of the fixtures which fastened it +to the monument. At each end of the recumbent figure, are two statues of +women in alabaster. Diana of Poitiers in the dress of a widow, with her +arms crossed, is kneeling at the head. At the feet, is that of the +virgin holding the infant Jesus: it was according to general opinion, of +the time of Pommeraye, who speaks of paintings, figures, tapers and +chaplets suspended round the latter statue. There were two inscriptions, +one in prose, the other in verse. Both were erased at the revolution, +but they have been replaced since; the following is a copy of the prose +one: + + Loys de Bresze, en son vivant cheualier de l'ordre, premier + Chambellan du Roy, grand Seneschal, Lieutenant-general et + gouverneur pour le dict Sieur, en ses pays et duche de Normendie, + Capitaine de cent gentile hommes de la maison du dict sieur et de + cent hommes d'armes de ses ordonnances, Capitaine de Rouen et de + Caen, Comte de Mauleurier, Baron de Mauny et du Bec-Crespin, + Seigneur Chastellain de Nugent-le-Roy, Ennet, Breval et Monchauvet. + Apres avoir vescu par le cours de nature en ce monde en vertu, + jusques a l'age de LXXII ans, la mort l'a faiet mettre en ce + tombeau pour retourner viure perpeluellement. Lequel deceda le + dymence XXIIIe jour de juillet de mil vre trente ung. 1531. + +A third inscription, which probably had not been perceived in 1793, is +seen at the upper corner of the left side: + + _Hoc Lodoice tibi posuit Brezoee sepulchrum, + Pictonis amisso moesta Diana viro. + Indivulsa libi quondam et fidissima conjux, + Ut fuit in thalamo, sie erit in tumulo_[7]. + +Some witty people have remarked that the duchess of Valentinois spoke +truly, and that she was as _faithful_ in one case as in the other. + +Above the entablature, the equestrian statue, of the senechal, in white +marble is placed. On each side of the arcade, which contains this +statue, are four cariatides crowned with flowers, and representing: the +two to the right, prudence and glory; those to the left, victory and +faith. On the frieze, under some figures bearing festoons, we find this +motto: _tant grate chevre que mal giste_. The coping is an attic forming +a niche, in which is placed an alabaster statue; it holds a sword and +represents power, according to some, justice and prudence, according to +others. + +In the frieze above the figure is the following inscription: _In virtute +tabernaculum ejus_. The cornice is terminated by two goats supporting +the armorials of the senechal. The whole of the frieze is of alabaster, +while the architrave and cornice are of black marble. This mausoleum, +which is one of the most remarkable productions of the arts, under +Francis Ist, is attributed to Jean Cousin, or to a sculptor not less +celebrated, Jean Goujon. + +The monument of the cardinals of Amboise, which is more splendid, but +not of so pure a style, decorates the right side of the chapel: it is +placed in the thickness of the wall. After working for seven years +without interruption, it was at last completely finished in 1525, under +the archbishop d'Amboise, the second of the name: we say archbishop, +because at that time the prelate had not been invested with the roman +purple. The bodies of these two cardinals are not deposited in this +monument; they are interred in a vault at the foot of it and which is +only large enough to contain the two leaden coffins, which are supported +on iron bars. The sepulchre was violated during the revolution, and the +coffins carried off. On the lower part of the monument, are six +beautiful little statues, in niches separated by pilasters, representing +faith, charity, prudence, power, justice and temperance. All these +statues are of white marble. On the tomb, which is of black marble, the +two cardinals George d'Amboise uncle and nephew are placed. They are +kneeling on cushions; their heads uncovered and their hands joined. The +expression of prayer and piety is perfect in the two figures, especially +in that of George d'Amboise Ist. At their feet and on the front of the +cenotaph, we find the following inscription, in a single line, which +only concerns the cardinal-minister: + + _Pastor eram cleri, populi pater, avrea sese + Lilia subdebant quercus[8] et ipsa michi. + Mortoos en iaceo, morte extingovinior honores; + At virtus, morte nescia, morte viret._ + +On the ground of the monument is a bas-relief representing the patron of +the two prelates (saint George) overcoming the dragon; On the sides, +are eight different figures, amongst which we discover the virgin, +several saints and more particularly Saint-Romain, archbishop of Rouen +during the first half of the VIIth century. A _voussure_ ornamented +with sculptures, as remarkable for their good taste as for the richness +of their ornaments, supports an attic, where we find the statues of the +twelve apostles, two and two, in elegant niches separated by pilasters. + +These two monuments are not only remarkable by their magnificence and by +the recollections they awaken, they have another attraction, as an +history of the art at the time when the gothic style was giving place to +that of the renaissance. + +These monuments were renewed in 1838, in great perfection by M. Ubaudi, +sculptor of Paris. + +The remains of cardinal Cambaceres, who died at Rouen, on the 25th +october 1818, are deposited in the little vault at the foot of the +monument of the cardinals of Amboise. + +The altar of this chapel is decorated with a very fine picture by Philip +de Champagne, representing _the adoration of the shepherds_. This +picture is much esteemed by painters and connoisseurs[9]. On the right, +in leaving the chapel of the virgin, is a monument concerning which +until recently, there were only conjectures. It is the statue of a +bishop stretched on his back and under an arcade. On the lower part of +the sepulchre, are mutilated bas-reliefs, which one might suppose, were +intended to represent a synod. At least, we may distinguish several +personnages seated, holding books in their hands and a bishop in the +midst of them as if presiding. On the upper part we remark angels +bearing away the soul of the deceased, represented by the body of a +young child. + +M.A. Deville, in his work on _the monuments of the cathedral of Rouen_, +has proved that this monument was that of Maurice, archbishop of Rouen, +who died in 1235. I must not pass over the popular tradition, however +ridiculous it may appear, which is attached to this monument. This +tradition says, that the body of the personage laid under this stone, is +that of a bishop who, in a fit of a passion, had killed his servant with +the blow of a soup-ladle. The people add, that the bishop repenting, +wished not to be interred in the church; but at the same time he forbad +them to bury him outside of it, and it was to obey this ambiguous order +that they made him a tomb in the thickness of the wall. + +Not far from the chapel of the Virgin, in the right aisle, on looking +eastward, we find the sacristy. We should stop a moment before its stone +partition with its iron door: they are both much esteemed works of the +end of the XVth century. The partition wall is from the liberality of +Philip de la Rose, chief-archdeacon, and was erected in the year 1473 +according to Farin, but 1479 according to Pommeraye[10]. + +Leaving now the inside of the cathedral let us examine the exterior of +this admirable edifice. Here, details are impossible; we must see the +whole mass, to form an idea of it. Who could number so many pieces of +sculpture, capitals, sculptured galleries, bas-reliefs, and ornaments, +which are multiplied under all forms? Historical explanations are those +only which can be offered to the reader. We may add, that they are the +most useful, since the rest is an affair of the eyes. The whole of the +western facade, comprehended between the two front towers, is from the +munificence of cardinal d'Amboise I. The building commenced on the 12th +of june 1509, and was finished in 1530. The bas-reliefs, which decorate +the doorways under the three entrances from the porch, were more or less +mutilated by the calvinists in 1562. That on the right is now scarcely +to be recognized: that of the great portal represents the genealogical +tree of Jesse, or of the family of the Virgin; that on the left, the +beheading of John the Baptist; the latter porch suffered considerably +from a frightful storm, which took place in 1683.[11] + +The tower, which terminates the facade to the north, bears the name of +Saint-Romain. Its foundation is the most ancient part of the whole +edifice; the rest was built later and at different periods. The whole +was terminated in 1477, under the cardinal d'Estouteville. Before the +revolution the tower of Saint-Romain contained eleven bells, there were +four others in the pyramid, and only one in the Butter Tower, but which +was heavier than all the others and of which I shall speak. + +The tower, which terminates the facade to the south, is named the butter +tower (_Tour de Beurre_), because, it was erected with the alms of the +faithful, who, afterwards obtained leave to eat butter during Lent: Its +height is two hundred and thirty feet. The first stone was laid in the +month of november 1485, by Robert de Croixmare, archbishop of Rouen. It +was nearly twenty two years in building, since the edifice according to +Pommeraye, was only terminated in 1507. Before its completion, it was +consecrated (in 1496), by Henry Potin, suffragan to cardinal of Amboise +Ist. + +On the 29th of september 1500, this cardinal gave 4,000 livres, to be +used in the casting of a bell; wishing, that it might be _the finest in +the kingdom_. The furnaces were already built at the foot of the tower; +and the mould commenced; but, they remembered that the wood work of the +tower would not be strong enough to bear such a colossus. The mould was +broken, and they made another which was smaller. The operation was +commenced on monday the 2nd of august 1501, at eight o'clock in the +evening, after a general procession round the Cathedral and the +archbishop's palace. The circumference of this bell was thirty feet, its +height ten feet and it weighed 36000 pounds. It is said, that the +founder, John le Machon, of Chartres, who cast it, was so satisfied in +having succeeded in this enterprise, that he died of joy twenty six days +after. + +On the visit of Louis XVI to Rouen, in 1786, the bell called George +d'Amboise was cracked. In 1793, it was converted into cannons. Some +pieces bearing the following inscription were made into medals and are +now very rare. + +MONUMENT DE VANITE +DETRUIT POUR L'UTILITE +L'AN DEUX DE L'EGALITE. + +MONUMENT OF VANITY +DESTROYED FOR UTILITY +THE SECOND YEAR OF EGALITY. + +The door _of the librarians_, at the northern extremity of the transept, +has been named so, from the booksellers shops formerly situated on each +side of the court. Commenced in 1280, this portal was only finished in +1478. It was the usual entrance of great personnages, except the king +and the princes of the blood, who entered the church by the great +western porch. The bas-relief over the door had never been finished: the +two lower compartments are the only ones. The court, which is before the +porch of the librarians, was formerly a burying ground. They ceased to +inter, because a murder had been committed in it and it had not been +purified. This entrance to the church is ornamented with an infinite +number of bas-reliefs, some representing subjects from the bible, others +extremely comical and even licentious; several of these sculptures have +of late been cleaned to be moulded. To the left, when facing the door, +we perceive a man without his head, negligently leaning on his elbow: +in his right hand a head is seen, which is that of a pig. + +If we wish to view the northern side, we must enter the _cour de +l'Albane_.[12] The collateral chapels are lighted by nine windows, which +are surmounted by different ornaments. We also perceive, on some of the +lower windows of the tower of Saint-Romain, the round arch of the XIth +century; from which one may conjecture that this portion of the tower +was spared from the conflagration, in the year 1200. + +The porch of the _Calende_, was built at the same period as that of the +booksellers, and is nearly disposed in the same manner. Above the door, +we distinguish a large bas-relief, which is divided into three +compartments: the lower one, says Mr Gilbert, represents _Joseph sold +by his brethren_; that in the middle; _the funeral of Jacob_; and the +upper one _Jesus-Christ on the cross_. To the right and left of the +porch, are several large statues, which are more or less mutilated, and +a profusion of bas-reliefs, most of which represent the history of +Joseph. + +The facade of this porch, like that of the booksellers, is accompanied +by two square towers of handsome proportions, and having large pointed +windows. + +On the tower which still exists in the centre, there was formerly a +handsome pyramid of three hundred and ninety six feet in height, a +monument of the talents of Robert Becquet and of the liberality of +cardinal d'Amboise, the second of the name. It was commenced in the +month of june 1542, and terminated in the month of august 1544. + +This beautiful pyramid was destroyed by fire, on the 15th of september +1822; at seven o'clock in the morning it had already fallen; two hours +after, the roof of the choir, that of the transept and the third part of +the roof of the nave, had equally fallen in. The melted lead of the roof +was bought by M. Firmin Didot and converted into types for printing. + +We cannot give too many praises to the zeal of M. de Vansay, prefect of +the department at that time: the misfortune happened on the 15th +september, and already on the 26th of the same month, the government +having been informed and solicited by that magistrate, ordered M. +Alavoine, one of the best architects, to go to Rouen, and confer with +the prefect on the means of remedying the havoc caused by the fire. +Early in the year 1823, the roofs of a aisles had already been repaired; +and a portion of the nave had been covered with lead, by the 15th march +of the same year. The roofs of the choir and of the whole transept, were +also soon repaired; but, for these parts, a copper covering was +preferred as being more solid and less liable to be destroyed. The +raising and renewing the lantern was terminated in 1829. + +From this new platform, the pyramid will rise majestically in the air, +and of it we already discover thirteen floors (the pyramid will be +completed with one more), each of four metres fifty centimetres, that is +to say a height of fifty eight metres, or about one hundred and eighty +feet. The spire of the church was first erected of stone but was +overthrown by the electric fluid, after that, it was twice built of +wood, and both times it became the prey of the flames; to rebuild it +with wood would have been gathering materials for a third fire, but now +it is made of cast iron and in open work. At the summit of the spire, +there will be a small lantern surrounded by a gallery for the purpose of +meteorological observations. The total weight of the spire when +completed, will be 600,000 kilogrammes, or about 1,200,000 pounds. It is +composed of 2,540 pieces, not including 12,879 iron pins[13]. Lastly, +this magnificent pyramid will reach an elevation of 436 feet; that is to +say 40 feet higher than the former, and will only be 13 feet less than +the highest pyramid of Egypt[14]. + +[Footnote 4: _Historical description of the Cathedral of Rouen_, by +Gilbert Rouen, Ed. Frere, 1837, 8vo. with 3 plates.--_Essay on ancient +and modern painting on glass_, etc., by E.H. Langlois. Rouen, Ed. Frere, +1832. 8vo, with 7 plates.] + +[Footnote 5: It is an error: Rollon did not die till the year 931 or +932.] + +[Footnote 6: _Monuments of the cathedral of Rouen_, by A. Deville. +Rouen, N. Periaux, 1837, 8vo, with 12 plates.] + +[Footnote 7: O Louis de Breze, Diana of Poitiers, afflicted by the death +of her husband, has raised this monument to your memory, she was your +inseparable companion, your very faithful spouse in the conjugal state, +and will be equally so in the tomb.] + +[Footnote 8: That is to say that the pope Julias IInd was of the house +of Rovero (_Quercus_).] + +[Footnote 9: The cathedral possesses also several other remarkable +pictures; we distinguish amongst others, an _Annunciation_, by Letellier +of Rouen, nephew of the celebrated Poussin: it is placed in the second +chapel of the left aisle, on entering by the great portal. To the right +and left of the choir, we find a _Samaritan_, by Charles Tardieu, and +_The lying in the Sepulchre_, by Poisson.] + +[Footnote 10: Mr Deville makes the dates between the years 1480 to +1482, according to the manuscript capitulary registers of the +cathedral.] + +[Footnote 11: We perceive two counterforts, which have been lately +erected on each side of the portal, under the direction of Mr Alavoine, +to consolidate the front of the edifice, which had caused some fear, as +to its solidity.] + +[Footnote 12: So called from the college of the same name founded by +Pierre de Colmieu, archbishop of Rouen and cardinal of Albe.] + +[Footnote 13: The whole of these pieces of iron were cast at the +foundery at Conches, a small town, which is situated at about twelve +leagues from Rouen, and the expense is valued at 500,000 francs.] + +[Footnote 14: For the description of the archbishop's palace, see the +chapter on the civil monuments.] + + +SAINT-OUEN. + +The abbey of Saint-Ouen, is the most ancient, in Rouen and in the whole +province of Normandy. + +[Illustration: Saint-Ouen] + +Founded in 533, during the reign of Clothaire Ist and the episcopate of +Flavius, the sixteenth archbishop of Rouen, (comprehending +Saint-Nienise), this abbey flourished particularly under the illustrious +prelate, whose name it bears and who enriched it with his patrimony. + +The 14th of may, in the year 841, the Normans landed at Rouen; the +following day they burned the abbey of Saint-Ouen. + +Rollo, having become a Christian, and a peaceable possessor of Normandy, +ordered the abbey to be repaired, and had the relics restored which the +monks had carried off to secure them from the profanation of the +Normans. + +The monastery soon took the name of Saint-Ouen; instead of that of +Saint-Peter, by which it was previously known. + +The dukes Richard I and Richard II followed the example of Rollo, and +continued the restoration of the abbey. + +Such was the reputation of this monastery, that the emperor Otho, who +had laid siege to the town during the reign of Richard Ist, surnamed +_Sans-Peur_, demanded a safe conduct to come and perform his devotions +at Saint-Ouen. + +Nicolas, son of Richard IIIrd, and the fourth abbot under William the +conqueror, caused the edifice, which had subsisted until then, to be +demolished, and laid the first stone of a new church in 1046. Nicolas +died too soon to complete the work; it was not finished until the year +1226, by William Ballot, the sixth abbot, who caused it to be dedicated +in the same year, on the 17th of october, by Geoffroy, archbishop of +Rouen. + +The cloister and other buildings necessary for the use of the monks were +finished under Rainfroid, the seventh abbot; but, in 1236, only ten +years after the completion of this church, the work of eighty years was +destroyed by fire in one day. + +Through the liberality of the empress Matilda and Henry IInd, her son, +the monks of Saint-Ouen succeeded in rebuilding their monastery; but it +was again completely destroyed by fire in 1248. + +At last, the celebrated Jean (_John_) or _Roussel Marc d'argent_, the +twenty-fourth abbot, was elected in 1303. Fifteen years later, he laid +the first stone of the present magnificent church, which is so generally +admired. In one and twenty years, during which the works of this edifice +proceeded, the choir, the chapels, the pillars which support the tower, +and the greater part of the transept were finished. These buildings cost +63,036 livres five sous tournois, or about 2,600,000 francs of the +present money. + +The edifice was not entirely completed until the beginning of the XVIth +century; but, the tower existed before the end of the XVth. An english +tourist[15] has expressed the following sentiments on this magnificent +church: + +"You gaze, and are first-struck with its matchless window: call it rose, +or marygold, as you please. I think, for delicacy and richness of +ornament, this window is perfectly unrivalled. There is a play of line +in the mullions, which, considering their size and strength, may be +pronounced quite a master-piece of art. You approach, regretting the +neglected state of the lateral towers, and enter, through the large and +completely-opened centre doors, the nave of the abbey. It was towards +sun-set when we made our first entrance. The evening was beautiful; and +the variegated tints of sunbeam, admitted through the stained glass of +the window, just noticed, were perfectly enchanting. The window itself, +as you look upwards, or rather as you fix your eye upon the centre of +it, from the remote end of the abbey, or the Lady's chapel, was a +perfect blaze of dazzling light: and nave, choir, and side aisles, +seemed magically illumined. We declared instinctively that the abbey of +Saint-Ouen could hardly have a rival; certainly no superior." + +"The grand western entrance presents you with the most perfect view of +the choir, a magical circle, or rather oval, flanked by lofty and +clustered pillars, and free from the surrounding obstruction of screens, +etc. Nothing more airy and more captivating of the kind can be imagined. +The finish and delicacy of these pillars are quite surprising. Above, +below, around, every thing is in the purest style of the XIVth and +XVth centuries. On the whole, it is the absence of all obtrusive and +unappropriate ornament which gives to the interior of this building that +light, unencumbered, and faery-like effect which so peculiarly belongs +to it, and which creates a sensation that I never remember to have felt +within any other similar edifice." + +The length, within the walls, is four hundred and sixteen feet eight +inches (about four hundred and fifty feet english measure), which may be +divided in the following manner: The nave, two hundred and forty four +feet; the choir, one hundred and two feet; the remaining portion, to the +extremity of the chapel of the Virgin, seventy feet eight inches; in the +whole, eight feet eight inches more than the Cathedral. The height under +the keystone is one hundred feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is +seventy eight feet; viz: thirty four feet for the nave, and twenty two +feet for each aisle. The transept is one hundred and thirty feet in +length, by thirty four in width. + +The church is lighted by one hundred and twenty five windows placed in +three rows not including the three rosaces. The second row lights a +circular inner gallery, which is above the aisles, and several of them +offer paintings of great beauty. Amongst others Saint-Romain is +represented making himself master of the _Gargouille_, and forcing the +Seine to return to its bed. + +Against the first pillar to the right, on entering by the Western porch, +is placed a large marble vessel containing holy water. By a very curious +optical effect, we can see the roof of the church in its entire length. + +The choir was formerly separated by a magnificent screen, of which we +find an engraving in the _History of the Abbey_, by Pommeraye. This +screen, was erected in 1462 by the munificence of the cardinal +d'Estouteville; in 1562, it was partly destroyed by the calvinists, and +repaired in 1655, by William Cotterel, grand prior of Saint-Ouen. This +fine structure entirely disappeared at the revolution. + +Eleven chapels, including the one dedicated to the Virgin, surround the +choir of the church. The first, in going towards the eastern extremity, +contains the baptismal font, and is dedicated to Saint-Martial. There +also, was formerly a very curious clock, which has disappeared within +the last forty years. A small figure of Saint-Michael came out and +struck the hours on a figure representing satan and then disappeared. + +In the second chapel, following the same direction, Alexander de +Berneval, one of the architects of the church, was buried in 1440. He is +represented, on the sepulchral stone which covers his remains, by the +side of his pupil; the following inscription is engraved on this stone +in gothic letters: + + Ci gist maistre Alexandre de Berneval, maistre des Oeuvres de + Machonnerie du Roy, notre Sire, du baillage de Rouen et de cette + Eglise, qui trespassa l'an de grace mil CCCCXL le vo jour de + janvier. Priez Dieu pour l'ame de lui. + +We also remark the statue of Sainte-Cecile, which is placed between two +pillars of the corinthian order. The other chapels, except that of the +Virgin, do not offer any thing remarkable. + +English tourists will find in the latter, the tomb of the youngest son +of Talbot; the following is the epitaph: + + Ci gist noble homme Jean Tallebot, fils du sieur de Tallebot, + Mareschal de France, qui deceda en aunees de puerilite, le IV + Banvier MCCCCXXXVIII. + +The interior of the church contains several fine paintings, such as: +_The miracle of the loaves_, by Daniel Halle, and _a Visitation_, by +Deshayes, of Rouen, in the chapel of the Virgin; _an opening of the holy +gate_, by Leger, of Rouen, behind the pulpit on the wall of the aisle. +This painting has been much spoiled by the damp. The different chapels +also contain some less worthy of notice. + +The great tower is altogether a monument of great beauty. Its height is +about one hundred feet above the roof of the church. It is surmounted by +a crown wrought in openwork and of a fine effect. The total height of +the tower is two hundred and forty four feet, from the pavement of the +church. It is supported, in the interior of the edifice, by four +pillars, each formed of a group of twenty four columns. + +The whole body of the church is supported, to the exterior, by thirty +four arches, forming with the buttresses by which they are supported, a +most magnificent ensemble. + +The western porch from its unfinished state does not offer any thing +remarkable except the rosace of which we have already spoken. + +The southern porch, commonly called _des Marmquzels_, merits much more +the attention of the curious, by the astonishing variety of sculptures, +which ornament it. We may especially admire two pendants of a very bold +execution. + +Above the door, is a bas-relief, which is divided into three parts, +representing the different circumstances of the sepulture of the Virgin, +of her assumption and entrance into heaven. This porch is assuredly one +of the most pure, light and perfect samples of gothic architecture. +During the revolution, the church, of Saint-Ouen was converted into a +smithy. Afterwards they here celebrated the decadary feasts, promulgated +laws, pronounced marriages, and even gave a great breakfast to the +conscripts of the _year VII_, the first who went under that +denomination. At last it was restored to its primitive use, the only one +worthy of it, for we may say of Saint-Ouen: _Hic vere est domus Dei_. + +The ancient abbey-house of Saint-Ouen was demolished, in 1816. So many +historical recollections were attached to the existence of this edifice, +that its loss is much regretted by the friends of the arts. This mansion +was the ordinary place of abode of the kings of France, on their passage +through this town. Henry II, Charles IX, Henri III, Henry IV, Lewis XIII +successively inhabited it. Henry IVth, resided there four months; it +was from this house that he addressed to the aldermen of his good town +of Rouen those words which will never be forgotten: _Mes amis, soyez-moi +bans sujets, et je vous serai bon roi, el le meilleur roi que vous ayez +jamais eu_. + +In the public garden, formerly that of the monastery, and which lies to +the north, east and south sides of the church, is a very curious +construction, in the form of a tower, called the _Chambre aux Clercs_. +It is without doubt a fragment of one of the churches, which succeeded +each other on this spot. It is situated at the north-east angle of the +northern transept. Its architecture is of the XIth century. People have +remarked, that it holds as much resemblance to the remains of a strong +castle, as to a fragment of a religious edifice. The interior is divided +into two stories, the second contains the works of the clock. + +The meridian placed against the wall, to the north of the basin, is that +which ornamented the ancient exchange. On the lower extremity of the +obelisk, we remark a woman seated, representing Commerce. The figure of +Time points to the solar line. In 1815, the medallion of Lewis XVth was +replaced, which had been taken away in 1792. This monument is by Paul +Slodtz, a statuary of the last century. + +[Footnote 15: Dibdin's _Bibliographical, antiquarian and picturesque +tour in France and Germany_; London, Payne and co. 1821, royal 8vo, vol. +1.] + + +SAINT-MACLOU. + +In the year 1228, this parish was situated without the walls of the +town. In that year, Geoffroy de Capreville granted a portion of ground +belonging to himself, and situated in the parish of Saint-Maclou, +_without_ the town. At that time the church of Saint-Maclou was only a +chapel, of which the construction was not very remarkable. About the +middle of the XVth century, the erection of the present edifice was +commenced. In the year 1511, the works were far advanced, the platform +which was to support the steeple having been already built. + +[Illustration: Saint-Maclou] + +This church was formerly called the _fille ainee de Mgr l'archeveque_. +The sacred oils were kept in this church, and were distributed to the +different parishes of the diocese. This privilege was shown by two +vases, supported on two iron bars on each side of the cross, which +surmounted the great porch. In the general processions, the cross of +Saint-Maclou took precedence of all others, and led the procession. + +The church is one hundred and forty two feet in length, by seventy six +feet in breadth, taking in the aisles. Its height, from the pavement of +the nave to the extremity of the ancient steeple, was about two hundred +and forty feet. This handsome steeple, in the form of a cone, rose to a +height of one hundred and fifteen feet above the lantern: one could +ascend to the cross, by the exterior of it, without a ladder. In 1705, +it was shaken by a hurricane; thirty years later, it became dangerous: +and they were obliged to take down the greater part of it. It was almost +destroyed during the revolution, when its whole covering of lead was +taken off, to make bullets. At present they are repairing the belfry +which was erected instead of that steeple. + +The interior of the church merits the whole attention of the curious. I +will mention particularly the beautifully sculptured staircase, which +leads to the organ. The authors of _the picturesque and romantic +travels into ancient France_, have not forgotten to place this gothic +jewel in their work. + +The great porch of Saint-Maclou is very remarkable. It had formerly +three very commodious entrances; but, they have contrived, at I do not +know what time, to build a house _before_ and _quite close_ to the +southwest door way; which, in consequence is closed up. + +The municipal administration lately decided that this house should be +pulled down, that the door which it closes up may be opened; but it will +be of no use but for the general appearence of the front of the edifice, +as this door does not present, like the others, any very interesting +details of architecture. It is more than probable that they existed +formerly, but, being hid from view, the door was taken off and replaced +by the plain one, which exists at present; this loss must be deeply +felt, when we contemplate the sculpture, which ornamented the other +entrances and which strangers will not fail to admire, either in the +western front or the northern porch from the rue Martainville. These +sculptures, which are attributed to the celebrated Jean Goujon, consist +principally of bas-reliefs representing different subjects from the +Bible, such as _the death of the Virgin_, on the door in the rue +Martainville; the _baptism of Jesus-Christ_, on the door of the great +porch, etc. On the small door to the left, are also some very curious +bas-reliefs. + +Saint-Maclou still preserves almost the whole of its ancient painted +glass windows, which are composed in general of isolated figures of +saints, covered with canopies and in the style of the _Renaissance_. The +lower portions of these paintings have been very much mutilated.[16] + +Almost opposite the northern porch of the church, we find the entrance +to what was formerly the burying ground of Saint-Maclou, which answered +the same purpose in Rouen, as that of the SAINT-INNOCENTS, in Paris. +M.E.-H. Langlois has discovered, on the columns of the buildings which +surrounded this ancient churchyard, the fragments, unfortunately almost +shapeless, of a _macabre_ dance. + +[Footnote 16: The model in relief of this church and made in the first +hall of the XVth century, may be seen in the Museum of antiquities.] + + +SAINT-PATRICE. + +This church was built in 1535, on the ground and in place of a smaller +one. The chapel of the passion, which is to the right on entering the +choir, dates from 1648, as well as the side of the edifice, which faces +the rue Saint-Patrice. Quite near the church, and in buildings belonging +to the parish, a community of priests had been founded in 1641, at the +expense of the curate; they had several privileges allowed by the king. +They could enter fifteen _muids_ of wine, without paying duty for it, +they could take eight bushels of salt in the year, from the kings stores +and at the merchant's price, and give the right of _committimus_ to all +ecclesiastics, after a year's residence in the town. + +The church of Saint-Patrice, has some stained glass windows of the +greatest beauty. They are of the XVIth century, which was the most +brilliant period of painting on glass in France. + +Mr Langlois, in his excellent work, which I have already cited, gives a +description of the painted glass windows. The whole interior of the +chapel, which is situated at the extremity on the left side, and facing +the east, is remarkable for the beauty of its windows. Most of them bear +the date of their execution, and the name of the donor. The pulpit of +Saint-Patrice was formerly in the church of Saint-Lo; it is of the +style of the _Renaissance_, and in good taste. + + +SAINTE-MADELEINE. + +From the avenue of the Mont-Riboudet, we perceive this elegant church at +the end of a row of young trees. It is built after the plans of +Lebrument and ornamented by the chisel of Jadoulle; this modern building +is distinguished by the beauty of its architecture and of its +sculptures. It was terminated and consecrated the 7th april 1781. + +The front, which faces the south, is composed of a peristyle, supported +by four corinthian columns. In the pediment, above the entablature, we +perceive a bas-relief, which represents a _woman suckling children_, the +symbol of charity. The representation of this virtue could not have been +better placed, than on the front of a church adjoining the Hotel-Dieu. + +The interior of the edifice is composed of a nave and two aisles, at the +upper extremity of the nave rises an arched dome, which is surmounted on +the outside by an obelisk supporting a globe. + +Several costly pictures decorate the chapels. Those which are perceived +at the extremities of the two aisles are more particularly esteemed. +They are by Vincent, a distinguished painter of the french school. That +on the right represents the _cure of the blind man_; that on the left, +the _cure of the paralytic_. + +The chapel of the _religiouses_ of the Hotel-Dieu, is situated behind +the high altar. + +(For a description of the hospital, see farther on, the article on civil +monuments). + + +SAINT-SEVER. + +In the commencement of the VIth century, Rouen possessed a bishop of +this name. At first, it might be natural to think that this bishop was +the patron of the church of Saint-Sever; but it is not so. The following +legend, is the history of this foundation, in a few words. + +In the reign of Richard Ist, third duke of Normandy, two ecclesiastics +of Rouen made a pilgrimage to the sepulchre of Saint-Sever, bishop of +Avranches. The body of the saint was deposited in the neighbourhood of +_Mont-Saint-Michel_, in a church surrounded by forests. A priest lived +alone in the neighbourhood. The two ecclesiastics, from an excess of +devotion resolved to carry away the remains of the bishop. The priest +heard of it and put a stop to their enterprise. They returned to Rouen, +and humbly begged Richard, whose consent they easily obtained to +authorize the removal of the remains, and in spite of the tears and +remonstrances of the inhabitants, they carried off the holy relics, +which they forwarded to Rouen. The procession rested at the hamlet of +Emendreville (now the suburb of Saint-Sever). Here the miracle, which +had already been shown several times on the road, was renewed again, +that is to say, the shrine which contained the remains of the saint +became so heavy, that it was impossible to raise it, until they had made +a vow to build a chapel on that spot; such is the origin of the church +of Saint-Sever. Till then this place had been called Emendreville. It +retained that denomination about four centuries afterwards; but at last +it took the name of the saint, in whose honour the parochial church had +been built. The present church was consecrated on the 27th january +1538. Neither its interior or exterior offer any thing worthy of notice. + + +SAINT-ROMAIN. + +This was the chapel of the ancient _Carmes dechausses_. Those fathers +obtained letters patent on the 27th july 1624. They purchased a house +at the entrance of the suburb Bouvreuil; which was then in the parish of +Saint-Godard, and laid the foundations of their monastery. The duke of +Longueville, laid the first stone of their church on the 20th november +1643, which they demolished in 1678, to build a new one, of which the +first stone was laid in the month of july 1679, by Mr Pierre de +Bec-de-Lievre, first president of the _Cour des Aides_, who untill the +time of his death, which took place in july 1685, paid the whole +expenses of the building. After his death, his two sons MM. Pierre and +Thomas-Charles de Bec-de-Lievre, finished the edifice at their own +expense. This is the present church: it was consecrated on the 21st of +december 1687. In 1791, it was dedicated to Saint-Romain, as one of the +chapels of ease of the town of Rouen. After having been shut for a time, +it was again placed amongst the chapels of ease, in 1802. It is now a +parochial church. On the front, which faces the east, we find the +following inscription in large, letters of gold: + +SANCTO ROMANO + +PATROCINANTE. + +This church contains some extremely curious antiquities. The first, +without doubt, is the monument of the archbishop Saint-Romain, which is +of granite, and forms, if I may say so, the high altar in the choir, as +the top of the high altar covers the monument, which is elsewhere very +plainly seen. It was formerly in the crypt of Saint-Godard, where +Saint-Romain was buried. It was brought afterwards to this church on the +20th february 1804. The ashes of the illustrious prelate had been +dispersed by the calvinists, in 1562. + +We may also admire the beautiful painted glass windows, which were +brought partly from Saint-Maur, Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, and +Saint-Martin-sur-Renelle. The following is an explanation: In the first +chapel, _a Transfiguration_, to the left on entering. In the next chapel +_a holy Family_. This chapel contains also a beautiful small marble +statue _of Saint-Louis_, and a bas-relief, by Jadoulle, representing +_Tobit burying the dead_. The firsts chapel to the right, contains the +font: there is a remarkable painted glass, divided into six partitions, +which represents _the history of Adam_. It is in this chapel that we +find a very curious cover of some baptismal-fonts, which was brought +from the ancient church of Saint-Etienne. The bas-reliefs, which +ornament it, represent _the Passion of Jesus-Christ_. In the sort of +lantern, which surmounts the cover, is _a Resurrection_. These +sculptures on wood, which are of great beauty, are of the beginning of +the XVIth century. At the farther end of the chapel, is a fresco +painting by Pecheux representing _the baptism of Jesus-Christ_. + +In the next chapel, which is dedicated to Saint-Theresa, we see +_Sainte-Genevieve_, the patroness of Paris. In her left hand she holds a +book, and in her right a lighted taper. Satan tries to blow it out with +a pair of bellows, while, behind the saint, an angel is ready to light +it again. These different painted glasses were brought from Saint-Maur. + +In the chapel of Saint-Joseph, is a painted window representing +_Saint-Stephen before his judges_. In the chapel of the Virgin, which is +opposite, we see _Saint-Stephen stoned_; these two painted windows +belonged to the church of Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers. + +Some glasses of the higher windows, brought from +Saint-Martin-sur-Renelle, represent _the passion of our Lord_. + +In the choir, in the chapel to the left, _Tobit burying the dead_, +above we see _the resurrection of Lazarus_; in the same window _Job on +the dunghill_; and underneath, _the Lord's supper_. + +In another chapel of the choir, opposite to the former, is _Jesus-Christ +in the temple, overthrowing the tables of the money-changers_; beside +it, is _the rich man at table_; Lazarus is at the outside of the door. +The stained glass of these two chapels belonged to Saint-Maur. Most of +them, from the richness of their coloring, and the perfection of their +execution, are very remarkable. + +Under the dome at the lop of the nave, are five different fresco, +paintings which represent different acts relative to the life of the +patron of the church. One represents _the consecration of Saint-Romain +as bishop_; in another, _he overthrows the pagan temples_; farther on, +is _the miracle of the dragon or Gargouille_; next to it, is the +procession of the shrine to obtain the deliverance of a prisoner, a +ceremony which was instituted after the miracle of which we have already +spoken. The _apotheosis of Saint-Romain_ crowns these four paintings. + +At the top of the sanctuary, behind the high altar, there is also +another fresco by Pecheux, _representing the agony of Jesus-Christ_. The +painting receives the light from above, by an opening made expressly for +that purpose. + +The organ, which was made by Mr Lebreton, of Rouen, was received on the +11th july 1830. It is composed of four keys, forty two registers, and +one pedal. Although modern, the church of Saint-Romain, merits as we +see, to be examined in all its details. + + +SAINT-GODARD. + +The origin of Saint-Godard is unknown, all that can be affirmed is that +there existed anciently on this spot a chapel dedicated to the Virgin. +This latter circumstance induced the belief for a long time, that the +first Cathedral was erected on this place. It will suffice, to establish +the contrary, to say that the church of Saint-Godard, was included +within the interior of the town only at the commencement of the XIIIth +century. + +In the year 533, and not 530 as Farin says, whose chronology is often +erroneous, the archbishop saint Godard was interred in the subterraneous +chapel of this church, which then changed its ancient name for that of +the holy prelate, whose remains it had received. Saint-Romain was also +interred in the same chapel. + +It was only after different additions that the church of Saint-Godard +became what we now see it. It is one hundred and fifteen feet long, by +seventy eight broad. In 1556, its organ was a very small one; it was +afterwards enlarged; but, in 1562, it was destroyed by the calvinists. +The present organ, which was established in 1640, is the work of a +scotchman, named George Lesselie. + +The church of Saint-Godard, when suppressed at the second +circumscription of the churches of Rouen, saw all its ornaments and +riches pass to the parishes of Saint-Ouen and Saint-Patrice. Amongst the +ornaments, we will mention its admirable painted windows, which were the +finest in France, according to Farin and Levieil,[17] whose opinion has +become an authority. A great many of these glasses were broken in the +_chambre aux clercs_ of Saint-Ouen. When, reopened for religious +purposes, in 1806, the church of Saint-Godard became again possessed of +two of its finest windows: that of the chapel of the Virgin, to the +right facing the choir, and that of the chapel of Saint-Nicolas, on the +opposite side. The first represents the mother of the saviour, and the +kings of Judea from whom she was descended. The celestial head of the +Virgin is of astonishing beauty of composition. + +The window of the chapel dedicated to Saint-Nicolas represents different +acts of the life of saint Romain; and the painter, one may imagine, has +not forgotten the history of the _Gargouille_. These two windows are +each thirty two feet high by twelve in width. Nothing can be comparable +to the beauty of the colour of these two windows; from thence came the +proverb, in speaking of wine of a purple colour: _It is the colour of +the windows of Saint-Godard_. + +[Footnote 17: _The art of painting on glass_. 1774, folio, fig.] + + +SAINT-NICAISE. + +The church, that is to say, the primitive chapel which was built on this +spot, was one of those which were founded, about the middle of the +VIIth century, by the illustrious archbishop saint Ouen. It was at that +time very far out of the city, since the limits on this side of the +town extended only as far as the streets de l'Aumone, and Robec, during +the life-time of saint Ouen. It was only six hundred years after, under +saint Louis, that the church of Saint-Nicaise was comprehended within +the interior of the town. The choir of this church is remarkable for the +symmetry of its proportions. Its organ was placed in 1634. The remainder +of the architecture of this church does not offer any thing to fix the +attention. At the eastern extremities of the aisles, we perceive two +mutilated painted glass windows; but which nevertheless call forth the +admiration of the connaisseur. The one of them represents the three +christian virtues, the other, two figures of the same description, with +that of a bishop. The heads are very beautiful, and the draperies quite +dazzling, from their brilliant colours. + + +SAINT-VINCENT. + +This church was formerly called _Saint-Vincent-sur-Rive_, because it was +situated on the bank of the river. The treasurers of Saint-Vincent had +the salt measures in their keeping, they were deposited in a small tower +at the entrance of the church, for that purpose. When the boats loaded +with salt passed by the church, they had to give a certain quantity to +the parish, which has been since replaced by an annual sum of 140 +livres. Saint-Vincent, like most other catholic temples, was pillaged in +1562 by the calvinists. + +Saint-Vincent is a handsome production of the _renaissance_. The +architecture of the interior is light and gracious, if we except the +ornaments, which are not in very good taste, and which have been +fastened on the pillars of the choir, in the middle of the last century, +after the designs of the architect De France. + +The painted glases of this church are very remarkable. At the lower +extremity of the right aisle, in looking towards the choir, we perceive +a pane of glass, a part of which is done on pasteboard by Albert-Durer, +representing the virgin kneeling beside several of the apostles. The +draperies of the former are in admirable gothic style; the heads of the +others are also very fine. + +In the northern aisle, that is to say, to the left on entering by the +great porch, opposite the choir, we remark a window representing the +history of saint John the baptist. The lower pannel represents the +_Decapitation_ of the saint, whose head they are carrying to Herod, who +is seated at table with Herodias. In the next window, in going towards +the eastern extremity, there is a view of the church of Saint-Ouen, but +it is unfortunately broken. We can only now distinguish its tower. + +In the chapel to the left of the choir, there is a window representing +the miracle attributed to Ferdinand, better known under the name of +saint Anthony of Padua, and taken from the lives of the saints, by the +reverend father Francois Giry. + +The interior of Saint-Vincent, and especially the southern aisle, still +offers some very fine painted windows which are unfortunately very much +injured. + + +SAINT-VIVIEN. + +This church has given its name to the street in which it is situated. It +was formerly but a chapel in the midst of meadows and marshes. In the +year 1209, it was situated, without the town. It was formerly low and +dark; in 1636, the roof was raised to a greater height. Before the year +1661, the organ was placed, in the left aisle: at this period, it was +placed in its present situation. This church does not offer any thing +very remarkable, unless perhaps its lofty steeple, in the form of a +sugar loaf. + + + + +CHAPELS OF EASE. + + +SAINT-GERVAIS. + +Saint-Gervais was perhaps after the virgin, the first person to whom an +altar was erected in Rouen. Neither Pommeraye, Farin, +Toussaint-Duplessis, nor several other modern writers, have spoken of +the origin of this church; the following is a sketch of it. + +In 386, saint Victrice, then archbishop of Rouen, received from +Saint-Ambroise a box of relics, amongst which were the remains of +Saint-Gervais. Saint-Victrice caused a church to be erected in which +were to be deposited those venerable remains. The archbishop tells us +that he worked with his own hands, and that he even helped to carry the +stones on his shoulders. Should not the temple where the remains of +Saint-Gervais had been deposited, have been named after this martyr? Was +it natural to give another name? Certainly not; and we may conclude +therefore that the present church of Saint-Gervais has been erected on +the ground where that formerly stood, which Saint-Victrice had caused to +be built; and which afterwards was raised into an abbey, and is at the +present time a chapel of ease. The church of Saint-Gervais suffered +considerably during the religious contests: in the year 1591, it was +almost destroyed. At that time the royal army had taken possession of it +and had established a battery near to it, which caused great havoc in +the town of Rouen, this army was commanded by the Marquis de Villars, +for the league. + +Strangers should not forget to visit an extremely curious ancient +monument, the crypt of Saint-Gervais. It is immediately under the choir +of the church. The descent is by a stair-case composed of twenty eight +stone steps. The length of this subterranean chapel is thirty five feet, +by sixteen in breadth and fifteen in height. The two first archbishops +of Rouen, saint Mellon and saint Avitien, are buried under the two +arcades, which we perceive on the right and left at the foot of the +stair-case. These arcades had been walled up at the time of the +religions troubles; in 1723, they were opened again. The monument of +saint Mellon is that to the left on entering. We here discover the only +vestiges of roman architecture, which are to be found in this town. The +roman road, which existed sixteen centuries ago, between the ancient +_Rothomagus_ and _Juliobona_, passed close to this church. + +William the Conqueror, when mortally wounded by the pummel of his +saddle, on his way to Paris, caused himself to be carried to the priory +of Saint-Gervais, where he died on the 9th of september 1087. + + +SAINT-HILAIRE. + +In the year 1562, the calvinists entered by force into the town of +Rouen, by the suburb of Saint-Hilaire, and destroyed at the same time +the church of that name. It was rebuilt twenty eight or thirty years +after. Like the church of Saint-Vivien, it has given its name to the +quarter in which it is situated; and like it also, offers nothing worthy +the attention of the antiquary. + + +SAINT-PAUL. + +Farin and some other authors have said that this had been an ancient +temple of _Adonis_; nothing however proves, or justifies such an +assertion; and we only see in this, a popular tradition on which we +must not rely. + +Formerly this little church was very curious in some of its portions. It +is the only one in Rouen, which offers the three semi-circular +_absides_, which we find in most of the monuments of the XIth century. +The middle is the highest and projects farther out than the other two. +There is a row of curious figures on the outside of the edifice in its +whole circumference: some of which are represented with great +moustaches. According to Mr Cotman, who has remarked figures of a +similar description in different parts of Normandy, these great +moustaches must at first have been a satire upon the Saxons who wore +them, when at the same time the Normans had their heads completely +shaved. Robert Wace tells us that at the battle of Hastings the English +took the Normans for an army of priests. + +In the interior of the edifice, the triple choir was separated from the +nave by a semi-circular arcade, the capital of which was covered with +sculptures, which have been unfortunately destroyed. This nave was +modern, and dated only from the commencement of the XVIIth century, the +most ancient portion is from the commencement of the XIth century. + +The modern portion was destroyed some years since. A new church in the +form of an ancient basilica has been erected close to it, from the +designs of Mr Du Boullay. Antiquaries will learn with pleasure that the +administration of the town has taken measures to preserve the three +_absides_ of the ancient little edifice, with the intention of using it +as a sacristy to the new church. + +The walk, at the extremity of which the church of Saint-Paul is +situated, was formed in 1692 and 1693; but was only the planted in 1729. +The whole space from watering place to the foot of mount +Saint-Catherine was formerly a vast meadow with a few gardens. The road +when finished was called the _Chemin neuf_; it is now called the _cours +Dauphin_, so named in memory of the birth of the dauphin, son of Lewis +XVth. + +At the extremity of this avenue there are several springs of mineral +waters. They are called the waters of Saint-Paul, from the name of the +parish. There are also several of similar description in the quarter +Martainville, called la Marequerie. + + + + +PROTESTANT WORSHIP. + + +SAINT-ELOI. + +Before the Seine was enclosed in its present bed, the church of +Saint-Eloi was situated on an Island. Afterwards, without changing +place, it found itself situated on the _terres neuves_, like the other +churches, Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, Saint-Clement, and +Saint-Martin-du-Pont. In 1030, under the duke Robert, those new lands +were considered as suburbs of Rouen: _In suburbia Rotomagensi ecclesiam +sancti Eligii_, etc. + +The church of Saint-Eloi was formerly considered as one of the best +lighted in the town of Rouen. There were, a short time since, but are +now walled up, three windows, of which the painted glass was executed in +the XVIth century; they have been transferred to Saint-Mary's, to +ornament the museum of antiquities. Formerly there was a well in the +choir, but which is now filled up, from which the water was drawn up by +a chain, from whence the proverb, still used in Rouen, is derived: "It +is cold as the chain of the well of Saint-Eloi." + +This church has been granted for protestant worship, since 1803. The +number of persons who profess this worship in Rouen, is about 2,000. The +service commences at eleven o'clock in the morning. English service is +also performed in this church at three o'clock in the afternoon. + +The _place Saint-Eloi_ does not offer any thing worthy of notice; it was +the ancient burying ground of the parish of that name: and has since +become the poultry and game market. + + + + +CHURCHES CLOSED IN 1791, + +WHICH DESERVE THE ATTENTION OF THE ANTIQUARY. + + +SAINT-PIERRE-DU-CHATEL, + +At the top of the rue Nationale. + +This religious edifice, which is of the XVth century, did not offer +any thing remarkable but its tower, which is entire. + + +SAINT-ANDRE-DANS-LA-VILLE, + +Rue aux Ours, near the rue de la Vicomte, was erected between the years +1526 and 1557. + + +SAINT-ETIENNE-DES-TONNELIERS, + +At the corner of the street of that name, and the rue des Iroquois. + +The construction of this edifice, dates from the commencement of the +XVIth century. + + +SAINT-PIERRE-L'HONORE, + +Rue des Bons-Enfans, at the corner of the rue Ecuyere. + + +SAINTE-CROIX, + +Rue Sainte-Croix-des-Pelletiers, at the top of the street. + + +SAINT-SEPULCHRE, + +At the corner of the streets Saint-George and de la Vicomte. + + +SAINT-LAURENT, + +In the street of that name. Its tower merits principally the attention +of the traveller; it was commenced in 1490 and finished in 1501. The +screen of Saint-Laurent was considered a chef-d'oeuvre of architecture. + + + + +CIVIL MONUMENTS. + + +HOTEL-DE-VILLE (TOWN-HALL). + +The modern building which stands near the northern transept of the +church of Saint-Ouen was the dormitory of the monks. It is now the town +hall. The offices occupy the ground and first floor, the library and +gallery of paintings the second. The great stair-case is remarkable for +its elegance and lightness; it has been compared to that at Somerset +house. On the first landing we find in a niche, the statue of Lewis +XVth in his youth, from the chisel of Lemoine. The great stair-case, +next the church, constructed from the designs of Lebrument, the +architect of the Madeleine, is distinguished by the boldness of its +architecture; it leads to the library and gallery of paintings. The new +facade of the town hall is composed of two wings which are parallel at +their extremities, and a peristyle between the two former, but which +does not so far project. Two columns of the corinthian order support the +pediment, on which the armorial bearings of the town are sculptured; +they are supported on one side by Mercury and the attributes of +Commerce, and on the other by Industry in the likeness of Minerva. On +the first floor of the southern wing, there is a very fine room, which +is used for the meetings of the municipal body; one of the rooms on the +second floor has been devoted to the meetings of the royal academy, +their former room having been joined to the public library. + +The ancient town-hall, which was built in the year 1608, was situated +at the corner of the rue Thouret and the rue de la Grosse-Horloge, and +near the tower of the belfry; the only portion of this building which +remains, is that which faces the rue Thouret. This edifice having fallen +into ruin, it was decided that a new town-hall should be erected. In +1757, a plan was adopted, and the monument was to be raised at the +western extremity of the old market place; but after having laid out one +million of francs, on the foundations alone, they became terrified at +the enormous sum, which it would require. The municipal administration +still possesses the model in relief of the said monument: it was of very +curious architecture and may still be seen at the Museum. + + +ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE. + +This edifice adjoins the Cathedral church. The principal body of the +building, which faces the street, was begun and partly finished in +1461, by the cardinal d'Estouteville; but death overtook this prelate +before he had completed the whole. It does not appear that his +successor, Robert de Croixmare, continued the works. It was, according +to Farin, the cardinal George d'Amboise Ist, who terminated the +edifice. The only remarkable portion of the interior of this edifice is +that named the _gallery of the states_. It is decorated with four large +paintings by Robert. They represent views of Havre, Dieppe, Rouen and +Gaillon, the once celebrated chateau of the archbishops of Rouen, and +built by the cardinal d'Amboise Ist, with the savings which he made +from his salary, from the profits of his legation, and from the large +fines which he levied, with the knowledge of the king, on the rebel +towns of Italy. + +In 1508, when Lewis XIIth with his queen came to Rouen, he alighted at +the archiepiscopal palace. The dauphin Francis of Valois, son of +Francis Ist, inhabited it also in 1531. + +The modern building which looks on the garden, and which is to the right +on entering, was erected at the commencement of the last century. The +library, which is appropriated to the chapter of the cathedral, is +situated on the first floor. + + +PALACE OF JUSTICE. + +When we say that the Palais-de-Justice was erected by Lewis XIIth, in +1499, as a court of exchecquer, which that prince had arranged should be +held at Rouen, we must not comprehend that part of the building called +the _salle des Procureurs_, or attorneys hall, which dates from 1493, +and which was erected (as we have mentioned at the article exchange), as +a place of meeting for the merchants of the town. Even at the present +time, this hall calls forth the admiration of the best architects. Its +length is one hundred and fifty feet, by fifty in breadth. Its lofty +roof is not supported by a single pillar; the ingenuity of the work is +here contrasted with its boldness of conception. The only ornaments +which decorate the walls of the hall are elegant empty niches, which are +detached in relief, and at equal distances. The principal staircase, +which leads up to the salle des Procureurs, was erected a few years +since, under the superintendence of M. Gregoire. The _Conciergerie_ and +prisons are situated under this hall. + +[Illustration: Palais de Justice] + +The Palais-de-Justice, properly so called, forms as it were one side of +a square, at the northern extremity of the salle des Procureurs. Its +facade, which looks towards the south, is two hundred feet in length, +and is ornamented with every thing that the architecture of the time +possessed of the richest and most delicate. The angular pillars of the +piers are covered with canopied statues and small steeples, which extend +from the base to the summit; the numerous ornaments, which surround the +windows, those which accompany and surmount the windows of the roof; the +leaden balustrade which surrounds the roof, the arcades which form a +gallery, and are carried along the whole of the entablature, lastly, the +elegant octangular turret which occupies the middle of the facade and +separates it into two equal parts, are of the greatest beauty and purity +of taste, in spite of a certain mixture in the style, which +characterizes the transition from gothic architecture to that of the +_renaissance_, style which already began to be in use. The name of the +architect, unknown till recently, is Roger Ango. + +At the farther end of the salle des Procureurs is a door, which leads +into the ancient _Grand Chambre_ (great Chamber), in which the court of +assizes are now held. This hall may be considered as the finest in the +kingdom. The ceiling, which is divided into sculptured compartments, +decorated with gilt bronze ornaments, is of oak to which time has given +the appearance of ebony. The whole of the flooring was formerly covered +with _arabesques_, according to the custom of the reign of Lewis the +XIIth. From this floor, an ancient fire place which existed in the +_Chambre de Conseil_, or Counsel Hall, a curious painting which the +antiquarian Millin mentions in his _national antiquities_ and on which +witnesses were sworn have all disappeared. + +On the exterior, only two parts of this elegant edifice, that which is +exposed to the setting sun, and the middle one to the south, have +retained their primitive beauty. The latter is now under repair and +renovation. At the commencement of the last century, the modern portion +of the building which faces the west, was erected. The front of this +building fell to the ground on the 10th of april 1812, and brought down +with it the whole ceiling, which was painted by the celebrated Jouvenet, +who, having his right hand paralysed, painted with his left, and in a +manner worthy of such a painter, the _Triumph of Justice_. + +Considerable embellishments have taken place in the court of the Palais. +The massive flight of stone steps, which led to the _salle des +Procureurs_, and which especially hid from view the beautiful angular +turret, has been removed. A new staircase has been erected at the middle +of the facade, before the door of the prisons, the entrance to which, is +at the side. This staircase is composed of a single straight flight, of +five metres (fifteen feet) in breadth, and is crowned by a porch in the +style of the building. The ancient wall, which closed the court on the +side of the rue aux Juifs, has been replaced by a cast iron railing, in +the gothic style. The front of the Palais being thus exposed to view, +the aspect of the edifice becomes as imposing as picturesque. Behind the +Palais-de-Justice, in the rue Saint-Lo, is a large building, which +answers the purpose of a court of appeals, for the _cour royale_. The +offices of the town-hall were established here during the revolution. It +was formerly the residence of the first presidents of the parliament of +Normandy. + + +TOWER DE LA GROSSE-HORLOGE. + +The following inscription, which is engraved on a brass plate, and is +perfectly well preserved, is placed above the door at the foot of the +staircase. + + En lan de lincarnarian nee segour. mil ccc.xx.iiii. et neuf. fu + comence rest berfrop: et Es ans ensuiuas iusques en lan mil. + ccc.xx.iiii. et xviii. fu fait et parfait. ou quel temps noble home + mess. Guille de Bellengues rheunllier chambellen di Roy nostre + Sire estoit cappitaine de reste ville. honorable home pourneu et + sage Johan de la tuille bailly. et sire Guillaumealorge. Johan + mustel. Guille de gaugy. Richart de sommery. Nicolae le roux. + Gaultier campion, ronseillers de la Dicteville. et pierres hermes + reseueur d'icelle. + +Proceeding on, we ascend the tower of the belfry, by a flight of two +hundred steps, at the top of which is the bell, with the following +inscription: + ++JE SUI: NOMME: ROUVEL: ROEJEN: +LE SENON: ME SJSE: SERE: REGAN: +DAMJENS: ME FJST+ + +We perceive by this inscription, that this bell was named _Rouvel_, and +not _Rembol_, as tradition would have it; but it is better known under +the name of the Cloche d'argent (silver bell), although not a grain of +silver entered into the composition of it. It rings every night at nine +o'clock. It also rings peals on occasion of any national rejoicings or +public calamities. This bell was made in the year 1447; it was then +called the _horloge du Beffroi_. The stone vault, which crosses the +street, at the place still called _porte Massacre_ (the murder gate) was +erected in 1527. On each side of this arcade, we perceive the dial +plates and medallions. + +Under the Vault, in the centre, we see sculptures representing a +shepherd tending sheep. On each of the sides, are other sheep grazing. +To the left, and facing the old market place, we may read the following +inscription: _Animam suam ponit pro ovibus suis_, which indicates +sufficiently the allegory of this composition, if we did not also see on +the opposite side these other words: _Pastor bonus_. + +Beside the arcade, but nearer to the rue des Vergetiers, the tower of +the Belfry rises. We perceive a platform at the top of the tower, +surrounded by an iron railing, from whence is a view of the whole town. +Above is a dome, surmounted by a small steeple. + + +THE COVERED MARKETS. + +About the middle of the Xth century, Richard Ist, surnamed +_Sans-Peur_, and third duke of Normandy, caused a palace to be erected +on the Seine, which consisted of a large tower and served at the same +time as a defence to the town. It was also the state prison. Henry Ist +added several buildings. Several fortifications had been previously +erected, the former being then called the Vielle-Tour (old Tower). This +tower was destroyed by Philip-Augustus; it was there, according to the +greater number of historians, that in 1204 the cruel John-Sans-Terre +caused his nephew, Arthur of Britanny, to be confined, and murdered him +with his own hand. The present _halles_ (covered markets) occupy the +greater portion of the site formerly occupied by the palace and the +_Vieille-Tour_, which has left its name to the two markets we are +presently going to speak of. + +Those vast warehouses for different manufactures, called _halles_ (or +marts), were erected in the second half of the XIIIth century, about +the time when Lewis IXth fixed the fifth enclosure of the town of +Rouen. These marts are considered the most important in France. The most +considerable portion, and also the most ancient of the whole building, +is set apart for the sale of linen cloths. Its length is two hundred and +seventy two feet, by fifty in breadth. The roof is supported by two rows +of stone pillars. The two other marts, one for coton stuffs and the +other for worsted stuffs and cloth, are each two hundred feet in +length. These marts were open till about the year 1493, at which time +they were enclosed, to prevent vagabonds taking shelter in them. The +linen mart separates the market which is held on this place in to two +unequal portions. The larger occupies the north side, and is called the +_place de la Haute-Vieille-Tour_; it is reserved for the sale of old +linen, old utensils and particularly for the sale of crockery and glass +ware. The second occupies the south side, and is called the +Basse-Vieille-Tour, because it is considerably lower than the other +portion. Several kinds of eatables are sold here, especially fish. + +There formerly existed a very beautiful fountain in the middle of the +higher place, which was composed of a triangular pyramid, surmounted by +a statue of Alexander; but not the least vestige of it remains. The +present fountain is supplied with water from the Gaalor spring. + +Near the linen-mart, we observe a remarkable edifice, which projects +from the rest of the building, called the monument of Saint-Romain. This +structure however does not form part of the marts, to which it has not +the least resemblance. Neither did it form apart, of the palace of the +ancient dukes of Normandy, as some persons still believe. The style of +its architecture sufficiently indicates the time of its erection, namely +1542. The corinthian order of architecture appears in the whole height +of the building. It was on the first floor that the celebrated old +ceremony, called the _levee de la Fierte_, for the delivrance of a +prisoner, took place every year.[18] + +In the neighbourhood of the linen and cotton marts, is the corn mart; +it is three hundred feet in length, its breadth being in proportion. It +is open three days in the week: mondays, wednesdays and fridays: the two +others marts are open only on fridays. + +[Footnote 18: To have all accounts of this ceremony, see the work of Mr +Floquet, entitled: _Histoire du Privilige de Saint-Romain_, etc,--Rouen, +E. Le Grand, 1833, 2 vol. 8vo.] + + +THE EXCHANGE. + +Untill the year 1493, the merchants of Rouen had no place of meeting +alloted to transact their commercial affairs. They met however, in the +cathedral but, without authorisation. The municipal authorities, wishing +to put a stop to this state of things, made an arrangement with the +bailiff of Rouen, who issued a decree: "That there should be erected at +the lower end of the New-Market place, and at the expense of the town, a +large stone building, and on the second floor of this edifice, a large +hall was to be reserved for the use of the merchants of the town, those +of other nations also having the same right, to meet and transact their +affairs; which hall is to be named, for the future, the common town +hall." + +The stone building here spoken of, is that vast wing, which closes the +court of the _Palais-de-Justice_ to the west; and the common town hall +is that known under the name of _Salle des Procureurs_ or _des +Pas-Perdus_. + +About the year 1664, the merchants company obtained a portion of ground +on the quay, where they met untill 1827. Since then, that portion of +ground has been given up to enlarge the quay. The meridian which +ornamented this ancient exchange, is now placed in the garden of the +town hall. Since the straightening of the quay, the uncovered exchange +has been placed before the _Consuls_--(or covered exchange) so that the +one might communicate with the other: it occupies the portion of ground, +which is situated between the rue Nationale and the rue des Iroquois, +and is surrounded by an iron railing. + + +TRIBUNAL OF COMMERCE, + +COMMONLY NAMED THE CONSULS. + +It is in the gallery on the ground floor, that the merchants meet, when +the rainy weather does not permit their meeting in the uncovered +exchange: This was formerly the _Juridiction consulaire_; so its +destination has not been changed since the tribunal of commerce is +established here. In the middle of the gallery on the ground floor, and +to the right on entering from the quay, we remark a handsome staircase, +which is formed by a double flight of steps, from the first landing. +Before the revolution, the statue of Louis XVth was placed here. + +This staircase leads up to the audience hall of the chamber of commerce, +which is the most remarkable of the three rooms which compose the first +floor of the building. It is ornamented, with a fine picture of Christ +by Van Dyck. In one of the neighbouring rooms are two paintings of large +dimensions, by Lemonnier, a native of Rouen. One of these paintings +represents the audience given by Louis XVIth to the Chamber of commerce +of Rouen, on the 28th june 1786, in the great hall of the archbishop's +palace, called the _Salle des Etats_. All the figures are of natural +size, and are striking likenesses. The subject of the other painting is +allegorical. + +There are three different entrances to this edifice, one from the rue +Nationale, another from the rue des Charrettes and a third from the +Quay. + + +THE CUSTOM-HOUSE. + +The edifice containing the ancient custom-house being a great deal too +small and inconvenient for that purpose, it became indispensable to +erect another building. For this object, the municipal administration +opened a public competition on the 14th october 1833, for the erection +of another edifice. In the month of may 1834, the preference was given +to the plan of Mr Ed. Isabelle, a distinguished architect in Paris, who +was charged with putting his plan into execution. The excavations were +commenced on the 17th february 1835, in the presence of the mayor, the +municipal council, etc., and the building was terminated in 1838. + +The architectural appearance of this edifice reminds us a little of the +severe style of the florentine architecture; the large doorway is +ornamented with the attributes of commerce, as likewise the coping of +the edifice; two bas-reliefs, of eight and a half feet high, and +sculptured on stone by David, representing the _symbols of navigation +and commerce_, decorate the middle of the facade on the first floor. +This building is situated on the _Havre quay_, a little farther on than +the old one. It has three entrances: the principal, on the quay, leads +into a large rectangular court, which is covered with a cupola of +cast-iron; opposite to the entrance of this court, is placed against the +wall the fine bas-relief, which ornamented the front of the old +custom-house, a very handsome piece of workmanship by Coustou, a +statuary of the XVIIIth century; it represents Mercury with the +different attributes of commerce. Two other entrances from the quay lead +to the offices and dwellings of some higher persons attached to the +customs. The lateral entrances serve as outlets to merchandise after +having been searched or examined in the covered court. + +The bonded and examining warehouses are on the ground floor, as likewise +the offices of the comptroller, sub-comptroller and searchers; the +entresole is destined for other offices; the first floor is occupied +with the dwelling and offices of the director; and lastly, the second +story contains the dwelling of the principal receiver and the residing +comptroller. + +_The entrepot reel_, is situated, behind the new custom-house; this +warehouse is used for warehousing merchandise after the duties, have +been paid. The front of this edifice which is situated in the _rue des +Charrettes_, was erected in 1826. + + +PUBLIC SLAUGHTERHOUSE. + +_Rue de Sotteville, suburb of Saint-Sever._ + +For a long time the municipal council had occupied themselves with the +idea of endowing the town with an establishment of this description, the +want of which was imperiously felt; numerous plans were presented and +discussed; at last, after a thorough examination, the town obtained, by +royal ordinance of the 18th august 1833, the authorisation to establish +a public and common slaughterhouse, with apparatus for melting the +tallow, scalding house and tripe house, on the fine property, which is +situated in the _rue de Sotteville_, at the corner of the _avenue de +Grammont_, bought for that purpose from Mr Burel. + +A public competition was opened at the end of the year 1838 for the +plans of this establishment, and the prize was decreed, on the 20th +march 1834, to _Mr Etienne-Theodore Dommey_, an architect from Paris. + +The first stone of this establishment was laid by Mr Hy Barbet, the +mayor of Rouen, on the 28th july 1835, in the presence of the civil and +military authorities and a large number of spectators. + +This important establishment, which was built within the period of two +years, and which is now completed, is one of the finest of this +description. The expences, including the purchase of the ground, +amounted to the sum of 970,000 francs, and the annual product is +estimated about 80,000 francs. + +The principal entrance is from the _rue de Sotteville_, a handsome +gateway between two gate houses gives a view of the whole building. The +total superficies of the buildings is of seven thousand three hundred +and thirty seven metres, or about the same number of yards. + +Spacious streets and avenues planted with trees permit of a free access +to all parts of the establishment. It is well supplied with water, and +has a canal to carry off the dirty water of the establishment, which +allows its being kept very clean. + +To visit the slaughterhouse, apply to the secretary general's office at +the town hall. + + +ROYAL COLLEGE, + +_Rue du Grand-Maulevrier._ + +The entrance court, is almost square, and surrounded on the four sides +by buildings of a regular architecture. This portion formed the ancient +college of the Jesuits. At a short distance to the north, and on a +raised portion of ground, stands a large building formerly called the +_Joyeuse seminary_, from the name of its founder, the cardinal de +Joyeuse. These two establishments have now been united. That part, named +_Joyeuse_, is exclusively reserved for the youngest children: they have +their separate play ground, which is formed of the terraces of the +garden. The courts, which are alloted to the other classes, are situated +lower than the former. The college contains about two hundred boarders +and five hundred day scholars. + +The college church particularly deserves to be mentioned. Its porch is +situated in the rue Bourg-L'abbe; we remark on the right of the entrance +a statue of Charlemagne, which we recognise by the globe he holds in his +hand; on the left, is that of Saint-Louis. The erection of this church +was commenced in 1614. It was formerly intended to be attached to the +college of the Jesuits. Marie de Medicis laid the first stone of this +church, which was only finished in 1704, and dedicated on the 21st of +december of the same year. Several paintings decorate the interior, +which is grand and majestic. The public are admitted into this church +during the hours of divine service. + +The municipal administration has caused a handsome marble mausoleum to +be erected to the memory of the cardinal de Joyeuse, the founder of the +seminary, in one of the lateral chapels to the left on entering. + + + + +HOSPITALS. + + +HOTEL-DIEU, + +_Rue de Lecat, at the extremity of the rue de Crosne._ + +The establishment of vast hospitals is very ancient in Rouen. The one of +which I am speaking was formerly situated near the cathedral, between +the _Calende square_ and the _rue de la Madeleine_. The house which is +opposite the southern porch of Notre-Dame, is a part of the remains of +that hospital. In 1758, it was transferred to the new building, which +had been erected in 1749, on the place called _the Lieu-de-Sante_, other +buildings having been afterwards added. + +The Hotel-Dieu is exclusively reserved for the reception of the +inhabitants of the town, excepting cases of urgency, which after having +been treated during six months, are dismissed as incurable, and are +admitted into the Hospice-General, if they have dwelt during ten years +in the town. More than four thousand persons are admitted into this +hospital annually. About two thirds of the sick are under the care of +the physicians, the remainder under that of the surgeons of the +establishment. Different rooms are reserved for different maladies. One +of these is alloted to soldiers; another, which is known under the name +of _Gesine_, is reserved for lying in women. There is also a separate +room for Children under five years of age, and several rooms for +boarders. + +There are in all fifteen rooms, containing together more than six +hundred beds, the half of which are of iron. + +The medical practice is divided into two distincts parts; that of +physicians, that of surgeons. Their visits are made regularly twice in +the day. + +The Hotel-Dieu, is at the western extremity of the _rue de +Crosne-hors-Ville_, which is planted with trees, and offers a fine +avenue. The buildings which form the hospital (properly so called), are +those which are situated opposite the entrance gate which gives +admittance to the vast court of the hospital. + +The two hospitals are under the same superintendance which is renewed by +one fifth, every year. This commission acquires each day a greater right +to public gratitude and especially to that of the poor. + + +HOSPICE-GENERAL. + +This is situated in the lower part of the town, to the south-east, and +occupies a vast portion of ground adjoining the boulevard Martainville. +Gratitude causes us here to mention the name of Claude Groulard, first +president of the parliament of Rouen, in 1602. From that date the +establishment of an hospital, really took place for the reception of the +poor sick inhabitants. Previously, there existed only a subsidy, for the +relief of the poor. After Groulard, a counsellor of parliament, named +Damiens, wishing to uphold more effectually the existence of the +hospital; quitted his house and situation, on purpose to live within and +in this way be nearer to watch over the wants of the poor. + +The Hospice-General has been successively enlarged at different periods. +Lately, they have made a considerable purchase of land, and erected vast +buildings. Its population is of about two thousand individuals. Although +under the same administrative commission as the Hotel-Dieu, it has its +particular director, who acts under the superintendance of the +commission, which commission is subject to the public administration. + +The care of foundlings is one of the principal attributes of the +Hospice-General. Orphans, who are found without means of existence, are +brought up in the same way as those who are abandoned; excepting, that +they are maintained at the expence of the _communes_ to which they +belong; while at the same time the others are chargeable to the +departement; excepting however the assistence of the communes. The +establishment provides the baby linen and clothing for the use of the +foundlings; it likewise pays all the expenses of feeding and education +of these children, as long as they remain in the hospital. When they are +sent into the country, the amount of board, and nurses charges, till +they attain the age of twelve years, is paid out of the funds of the +departement. The Hospice-General, receives each year on an average +about five or six hundred foundlings. A _tour_ is always ready at one of +the entrances to receive them. Once a week, two coaches filled with +these unfortunate little creatures, are sent off one into the country +called the _pays de Bray_, the other to that called the _Roumois_, where +they are left with agents who are charged to leave them with the nurses. +In each of those _communes_, doctors are employed by the administrative +commission to visit them in case of sickness. + +We perceive, the front of the church of the hospital, from the boulevard +Martainville. In 1785, the ancient chapel belonging to this hospital +being found too small to contain the population, it became necessary to +erect the present for that purpose. This church was dedicated on the +25th march 1790. The architecture has been much criticised. Perhaps +more harmony on the whole might have been desirable; but nevertheless, +the different parts of it are handsome, and the edifice, such as it is, +still does honour to its author, the late Mr Vauquelin. + +The principal entrance to this hospital is situated in the rue +Bourgerue. + + +THE ASYLUM FOR THE INSANE, + +_Situated in the rue Saint-Julien, suburb of Saint-Sever._ + +The _freres de Saint-Yon_, having been invited, in 1705, to come and +establish themselves in Rouen, by the archbishop Nicolas Colbert and the +first president Nicolas Camus de Pont-Carre, they accordingly purchased +the portion of ground, which bears their name, in 1708. They erected the +church themselves without the assistance of an architect, even acting as +masons and workmen. The first stone was laid on the 7th june 1728. This +edifice is of remarkable execution. In the exterior, its elevation is +about ninety six feet including a lantern of about thirty, which stands +above the transept of the edifice. In the interior, the length is one +hundred and twenty five feet and the breadth twenty five feet. On the +16th of july 1734, the _Freres de Saint-Yon_, carried with great pomp, +to their Church, the remains of their founder, the venerable Lasalle, +who died in 1719, and was buried in the church of Saint-Sever. +Independently of poor children, who were instructed by the monks +according to their condition, they likewise received incorrigible +children, who were sent by their parents to be taken care of; they also +received a limited number of insane persons, thirty were habitually kept +here at the expence of their families. + +From the time when the _Freres de Saint-Yon_, as also all other +religious communities, were suppressed, untill 1820, the house of +Saint-Yon, became successivly a revolutionary prison, a barrack, a +_grenier d'abondance_, or corn store house, a house of detention for +spanish prisoners, an hospital for wounded soldiers in 1814, and a poor +house. This last establishment was one of the most considerable of this +description; but, it was suppressed in 1820, by royal ordonance. + +Already in the preceding year, the _Conseil general_ of the departement +of the Seine-Inferieure had taken into consideration the deplorable +state, to which the unfortunate insane were reduced, and they resolved +to alleviate their wretched condition. It had been represented to them +that these unfortunate people could not receive in the hospitals of +Rouen, Havre or Dieppe, where there were great numbers of them shut up, +the great attention, which their position required, or not even those +which humanity demanded. + +The _conseil general_ on a proposition from Mr Malouet, then prefect +of the departement, voted the establishment of a special asylum for the +insane belonging to the departement. The buildings and dependencies of +the ancient monastery of Saint-Yon were designated as being fit for that +purpose. The situation of the place at the extremity of the suburb, and +in a healthy situation, and the numerous plantations which it would be +easy to make in the large gardens which surround the establishment, +appeared as many favourable circumstances, to fix the choice of the +administration. + +Therefore, in 1821, they entered into a contract for the building of +five different courts for the treatement of insane persons. + +On the 25th August 1822, on the feast of Saint-Louis, the prefect Mr +de Vanssay laid the first stone of the establishement. + +From that time the works were carried on with activity. Already in July +1825, fifty seven patients had been admitted. This asylum contains at +this time, 390 boarders and 150 poors at the charge of the departement. + +It occupies a superficies of nine or ten hectares. The inmates are taken +care of by the sisters of Saint-Joseph of Cluny. + +The admirable order which reigns in the establishment, the internal +management to which the insane are subjected, have already attracted the +attention of foreign medical men, who are charged with the treatement of +the same malady in the hospitals of their own countries. It may be said +that this asylum has, for several years served as a model to all the +others. + + + + +PRISONS. + + +There are two principal prisons in Rouen: the _house of correction_, and +the _maison de justice_, in the court of the Palais-de-Justice. The +first, commonly called _Bicetre_, contains the debtors, prisoners +accused but not tried, and those sentenced to imprisonment under twelve +months; in the second those already convicted for crimes are confined. +Those sentenced to more than twelve months are sent to the central depot +at Gaillon, ten leagues distant from Rouen. + +According to a statement made by Mr Vingtrinier, the principal +physician of the prisons, the average of the population of the house of +correction is about three hundred; that of the _maison de justice_ about +ninety; the mortality about one in fifty nine, in the first, and one in +sixty eight, in the second. + + + + +SOLDIERS BARRACKS. + + +There are three different barracks in Rouen: the first is situated near +the _quai aux Meules_ at Saint-Sever, and contains about one thousand +men. The second on the Champ-de-Mars, and contains about seven hundred +and fifty men. The third is the _caserne Bonne-Nouvelle_, situated in +the suburb of Saint-Sever. Most people pass the ancient priory of +_Bonne-Nouvelle_ (so named by Queen Matilda, on receiving the news of +the victory of Hastings), and see only a barrack. To the monks who +formerly inhabited this ancient priory, cuirassiers, dragoons and foot +soldiers have succeeded. + +The barracks of _Bonne-Nouvelle_ will contain about three hundred +cavalry or about six hundred infantry. + + + + +REMARKABLE EDIFICES. + + +HOTEL DU BOURGTHEROULDE, + +_Place de la Pucelle._ + +After the cathedral and Saint-Ouen, this town possesses no other +monument which excites more the curiosity of french or English +antiquarians. The first person who described the famous bas-reliefs of +the _Camp du Drap-d'Or_, which ornament the exterior of the ancient +gallery of the edifice, is dom Montfaucon in the 4th volume of his +_Monuments of the french Monarchy_. He only did it, on the indications +given by the abbe Noel, who gave the first explanations of these +sculptures. After Montfaucon came Dr Ducarel, who has only copied the +learned benedictine. Dibdin, the British antiquarian, has also paid his +tribute of admiration to the hotel du Bourgtheroulde, in his +_Bibliographical, antiquarian and picturesque tour through France_. +Cotman and Dawson Turner, his countrymen, have given a place to this +edifice in their respective publications. M. de Jolimont, in his _most +remarquable monuments in the town of Rouen_ devotes an article and two +engravings to this edifice. MM. Nodier, Taylor and de Cailleux have +enriched their _picturesque and romantic tour_, with a collection of +lithographic engravings representing the celebrated interview between +Francis Ist and Henry VIIIth, that took place in 1520 in a field +situated between Guines and Ardres in Picardy. Mr A. Le Prevost has +also written learned memoirs on the hotel du Bourgtheroulde. He has +fixed the date of the building (about the end of the XVth century), and +revealed the name of the founder (Guillaume-le-Roux), and facilitated +the numerous descriptions which have been made of it. The most +complete, is that given by M. Delaqueriere, in his work entitled: +_Historical description of the houses of Rouen_. + +In the short description that we give of this remarkable building, we +must notice the bas-reliefs, six in number, which adorn the elegant +hexagonal tower, in the inner court and represent pastoral scenes. We +must also add that interpreters make a great mistake when they inform +strangers that the celebrated maid of Orleans (burnt in 1431) was judged +and imprisoned in this building. + + +ANCIENT ABBEY OF SAINT AMAND, + +_Rue Saint-Amand._ + +NON EST HIC ALIVD NISI DOMVS DEI. + +The pious monks who caused this simple and touching inscription to be +engraven over the gate of their monastery, never supposed that one day +it would offer the most strange of _solecisms_. Enter this house and +you will have great difficulty in believing that you visit one of the +most celebrated abbeys in Rouen. + +This abbey, which was founded and endowed by the pious lady Aimeline, +and enriched by the liberalities of Robert-the-Magnificent, this once +famous monastery, which was honoured by the protection of kings, is now +a confused sort of inclosure and inhabited by workmen of different +kinds. Dirty courts and buildings in ruin have been for a long time the +only remains of the interior of Saint-Amand. Some parts nevertheless +have escaped destruction. Such is a very curious building, which had +been erected about the end of the XVIth century during the life of the +abbot Thomasse Daniel. This edifice is extremely remarkable from the +sculptures which cover the whole front, and chiefly represent pointed +windows. On the first floor, we find a room with two fire places, on +one we may still distinguish in spite of mutilation, the armorial +bearings of the Daniel family. The wainscot is even more curious than +the sculptures which ornament the front of the house. At one of the +corners of this building there is a small turret, of stone, its form is +polygonal; its ornaments are rich and in very good taste: it is a fine +specimen of the productions of the _renaissance_. + +The building, with a front of the Ionic order, which is separated from +the other by the turret of which we have just spoken, contains a room, +which a few years ago, excited the curiosity of connoisseurs. The fire +place was surmounted by an oaken wainscot, which represented, in niches +separated by pilasters, four figures, those of the virgin, the angel +Gabriel, Saint-Margaret and Saint-Magdalen. + + +BUREAU DES FINANCES, + +_Opposite the front of the Cathedral._ + +This was the ancient _Palace of the Court des Aides_. The building is +principally composed of hewn stone: it was built about the year 1509. +Although this edifice has suffered numerous degradations, it still +merits the attention of connoisseurs. The building has two separate +fronts: the principal one opposite the cathedral, the other in the _rue +du Petit-Salut_. The decorations are the same on both. + +In 1705, the _Cour des Aides_ was united to the _Cour des Comptes_, +under the name _Cour de Comptes, Aides et Finances de Rouen_. The +present edifice has nevertheless always retained the name of _Bureau des +Finances_. + + +REMARKABLE HOUSES AND CELEBRATED MEN. + +Ancient town hall, rue de la Grosse-Horloge and rue Thouret. + +Sculptured wooden houses, Grande-Rue, no 115 and 129. + +House, rue aux Juifs, no 47 and 49. + +House, rue Perciere, no 11. + +House, rue Bouvreuil, no 4. + +House, rue Etoupee, no 4. + +Houses, rue des Carmes, no 69 to 77. + +House, rue Caquerel, no 13. + +House, rue Damiette, no 29. + +Houses, rue Eau-de-Robec, no 186, 221, 223. + +Houses, rue Malpalu, no 90 and 92. + +Houses, rue du Change, no 2 to 8. + +Houses, rue du Bac, no 28 and 30. + +House, rue des Cordeliers, no 45. + +Houses which are remarkable as having been those in which the following +celebrated men were born. + +House in the rue de la Pie, no 4, where in 1606 the great Corneille was +born. + +House in the rue des Bons-Enfants, no 132-134, where Fontenelle, was +born on the 11th february 1657. + +House in the rue aux Ours, no 61. An inscription placed on this house +reminds us, that it was here, that A. Boieldieu, the celebrated +composer, was born. + +House rue aux Juifs, no 9. Here Jean Jouvenet, the celebrated painter, +was born on the 21st August, 1647. + +To these celebrated names we must add the following of men equally +natives of Rouen: Thomas Corneille (the brother of Peter), Lemery, +Basnage, Samuel Bochart, the fathers Berruyer, Brumoy, Daniel, Sanadon, +the painters Restout, Letellier, Sacquepee, Colombel, Lemonnier, +Gericault, mademoiselle Champmesle, madame Du Boccage, Armand Carrel, +Edward Adam, Dulong. Rouen is the birth-place of many other +distinguished men. + + + + +BRIDGES. + + +STONE BRIDGE AND STATUE OF CORNEILLE. + +This bridge was opened to the public, in 1829. It is about one hundred +and fifty yards higher up than the bridge of boats, which was formerly +almost opposite the _rue du Bac_[19]. We may almost say that it is +formed of two separate bridges, of which the two ends join each other on +the western extremity of the _Ile Lacroix_. Each part of the bridge is +composed of three arches. The span of the middle arch is of thirty one +metres (93 feet french); the lateral arches, are of twenty six metres +(78 feet); the whole length of the bridge is two hundred and sixty six +metres (798 feet). In the centre of the platform on the bridge, is +placed the bronze statue of Pierre Corneille, on a pedestal of white +Carrara marble, which rests on a base of granite. + +This statue is twelve feet high, and weighs 4540 kilogrammes (9274 +pounds _de marc_). It was cast by Mr Honore Gonon, at Paris, after the +model by Mr David. The pedestal is by Mr Gregoire, the civil architect +of the Seine-Inferieure. The height of the monument is twenty six feet. +The first stone was laid by the king, on the 10th september 1833. The +statue was solemnly inaugurated, on the 19 october 1834. On one side of +the pedestal, we distinguish the following inscription: + +TO PIERRE CORNEILLE, +BY SUBSCRIPTION, +1834. + +This statue was erected by means of a subscription, opened by the +Society of Emulation of Rouen. It is to this society that we owe the +first idea of this national monument. + +A medal was struck for the occasion, and represents on one side the head +of _Pierre Cornellie_, with the following inscription: + +_Pierre Corneille, born at Rouen the 6th june 1606, died at Paris on +the 1st october 1684._ + +And on the reverse, the statue, with this inscription: + +_Statue of bronze, erected by subscription to Pierre Corneille in his +native town, through the exertions of the Society of Emulation of Rouen, +in 1834._ + +[Footnote 19: Erected in 1626, it was demolished in september 1836.] + + +SUSPENSION BRIDGE. + +The numerous commercial trading vessels, which come up the Seine, were +formerly obliged to wait several days, before they could get along side +the quay to discharge. It became essential to enlarge the port, for +which reason the stone bridge, at the entrance to the town, was built; +but this arrangement rendered another bridge indispensable; and in 1828, +the town council consulted on the possibility of removing the bridge of +boats farther down; but the bad state it was in, and the enormous sum it +cost to keep it in repair, and the length of time it took to open it for +the passage of vessels, at once caused them to give up all idea of this +old machine, formerly looked upon us a wonder; but, which did not now +answer the purpose. + +On the 8th of june 1834, a royal ordinance was issued, approving the +undertaking. At last MM. Seguin brothers, civil engineers, and Pierre +Colin, undertaker of public works, were, on the 16th october 1834, +declared the approved contractors for the erection of the bridge; at the +same time granting to them the receipts of the tolls for a period of 99 +years, the bridge to be terminated at the latest, by the 1st of january +1837. And it was entirely completed by the 1st september 1836 (the very +day the bridge of boats was suppressed). At the expiration of the 99 +years, the bridge will become the property of the government. Its +breadth is seven metres thirty centimetres, its length 197 metres, and +the whole expense has amounted to 750,000 fr. On the left of the bridge +is situated a guard house, and on the right Brune's house, erected by +the city as a reward for courage and devotedness on many occasions. + + + + +RIVER AND RIVULETS. + + +THE RIVER SEINE. + +The source of the Seine is to be found near the hamlet of Envergeraux, +and about two leagues and half from the village of Saint-Seine, in +Burgundy. After a course of more than 200 leagues from east to west, it +falls into the Ocean, between Havre and Honfleur[20]. + +The depth of the Seine at Rouen allows this town to be classed amongst +the principal ports of France. They calculate at from 2000 to 2500 the +number of vessels of all sizes, which annually come this port. + +[Footnote 20: See: _Voyage from Havre to Rouen_; and _Excursion from +Rouen to Paris, by the Seine_. Rouen, 1839, in-18vo, with maps and +plates.] + + +ROBEC. + +This rivulet has its source near the village of _Fontaine-sous-Preaux_; +about two leagues from Rouen, runs through five _communes_, and enters +Rouen by the suburb Saint-Hilaire; passing through the town, it falls +into the Seine, near the stone bridge. + + +AUBETTE. + +The Aubette has its source at Saint-Aubin, a small village near Rouen. +This rivulet runs through _Saint-Leger-du-bourg-Denis_, _Darnetal_, +enters Rouen by the suburb Martainville, and falls into the Seine, at +the entrance to the _Cours-Dauphin_, near the porte _Guillaume-Lion_. +These two rivers are specially useful for mills and dying +establishments. + + +RENELLE. + +If the etymology of the name _Renelle_ is doubtful, the utility of the +stream at least is not so. It supplies numerous tanneries, of which +there are still a great many in the street which bears its name. This +sort of industry is very ancient in Rouen, and has never been +established in any other part of the town. On the 22nd of march 1560, +the parliament issued an act, ordering all the tanners to remove their +establishments to the _Eau-de-Robec_; but, they said that they required +clear water to carry on their trade, and therefore, were allowed, by +order of the king, to remain on the Renelle. This rivulet comes from the +Gaalor spring, and flows from the fountain of the _Bailliage_, almost in +a straight line to the Seine, into which it falls. + + + + +FOUNTAINS. + + +The more churches there were in a town, there should be as many public +fountains. Under the ancient law, a tub was placed at the entrance of +the temples, in which the priests washed their hands and feet; under the +new, and in imitation, fountains were placed near the churches, where +the christians, before entering, washed their face and hands. This +remark was applicable especially, in Rouen, before the revolution, where +the number of churches and fountains was quite equal. There are not now +thirty seven parochial churches; but we can still count thirty six +public fountains, not including those in many private houses. + +Of all these fountains, only seven merit particular attention, from +their architectural and historical character. They are the fountains of +the _Croix-de-Pierre_, the _Crosse_, the _Grosse-Horloge_, the +_Vieux-Marche_, the _Pucelle_, _Saint-Maclou_, and _Lisieux_. + + +FOUNTAIN OF THE CROIX-DE-PIERRE, + +_Carrefour Saint-Vivien._ + +There formerly existed, not far from the fountain known at present under +the name of the _Croix-de-Pierre_ (stone cross), a cross, which had been +raised through the piety of the inhabitants; but, we now can find no +authentic document of the period of its being erected; all we know is +that it had been rebuilt in the year 1628. + +This fountain is composed of three partitions in the form of a pyramid, +and is ornamented with some statues; its appearance is exceedingly fine. +One may still form an idea of the beauty of its architecture, in spite +of its ruinous condition, and even the repairs it has undergone. + + +FOUNTAIN OF THE CROSSE, + +_At the corner of the streets des Carmes, and de l'Hopital._ + +This is a small monument in the gothic style of the end of the XVth +century. The sculptures which decorate it, are remarkable for their +fineness and delicacy. It is surmounted by a royal crown. Its name comes +from its being situated at the corner of the house, which had for sign +the crozier belonging to the monks of Notre-Dame de l'Ile-Dieu. + +Some etymologists see in the word _Crosse_, an alteration of the english +word _cross_. In the year 1815, this fountain was completely renewed. + + +FOUNTAIN OF THE GROSSE-HORLOGE, + +_At the corner of the streets des Vergetiers, and the Grande-Rue._ + + +FOUNTAIN OF THE VIEUX-MARCHE, + +_On the old market place._ + +A modern square building, of the doric order. It was erected by Mr +Bouet, an architect of Rouen. + + +FOUNTAINS OF SAINT-MACLOU, AND OF THE PUCELLE. + +Strangers will be repaid for their trouble in going to see these +fountains. The first, is situated at the corner of the church of +Saint-Maclou; there remain still two figures of children, an elegant +creation of Jean Goujon. We mention the second, the _fountain of the +Pucelle_, on the place of the same name, on account of the historical +recollections, which are attached to it. It is a heavy composition of +Paul Slodtz. Its want of style causes us to regret the beautiful +triangular fountain, which was erected after the execution, in this +square; of the _heroine of Vaucouleurs_, a monument which instead of +destroying, they should have tried to preserve. + + +FOUNTAIN OF LISIEUX, + +_Rue de la Savonnerie._ + +This fountain is by far the most remarkable of the whole. It is thus +named on account of its being erected against a house, which belonged to +the bishop of Lisieux, who lodged in it when he came to Rouen. At the +top of the pyramid, we may remark Apollo, dressed in a most +extraordinary manner, and represented playing on the harp. Under the god +of the poets, we distinguish the horse Pegasus. Immediately beneath, a +figure with three heads is represented, of which the manuscripts make a +_philosophy_[21]. The nine muses are distributed in the rest of the +masonry, under the figure with three heads, which might almost be that +of a Hecate. Rocks, trees, turf and sheep, form the accompaniements of +this _Mount-Parnassus_. + +The water ran formerly from two brass figures of Salamanders, which +indicated the date of the time of Francis the first. Mutilated as it is, +this monument is still very curious, and merits to be visited. Its +erection dates from the year 1518. + +[Footnote 21: According to these manuscripts, the three heads represent +_Logic_, _Philosophy_ and _Metaphysics_. They were surmounted by a +crown.] + + + + +MINERAL WATERS. + + +Rouen has also its mineral waters, which, even in the neighbouring +towns, have a sort of reputation, I will point out three of the +principal sources, after _Lepecq de la Cloture_: The first, to the east, +is known under the name of _la Marequerie_, to which we arrive by the +rue Martainville; the second, to the south east, named _de Saint-Paul_; +the third is situated at _Deville_, in the neighbourhood of Rouen. The +learned doctor, on whose authority I speak, assures us that sick people +to whom he ordered the water of the last named spring, were cured by the +use of it. He also adds, that this spring might become very valuable to +the inhabitants of the western quarter of the town. Nevertheless, it has +never been much known, and even at the present day very few people are +acquainted with its existence. + + + + +SQUARES AND MARKET PLACES. + + +OLD MARKET AND PLACE DE LA PUCELLE. + +The name of the first of these two places points out to us that it is +the most ancient in Rouen; it is also the most considerable. It existed +in the XIth century, and was at that period, situated in the suburb. +Formerly, it covered a much larger space of ground than at present; +since, in the XVIth century, it occupied the whole of the ground +contained between the _rue du Vieux-Palais_, the church of Saint-Eloi +and Saint-Michael; the last mentioned church has disappeared within the +last few-years, and is replaced by a handsome building, which is named +the _Hotel Saint-Michel_. About the commencement of the XVIth century, +the houses in the neighbourhood of the church of Saint-Eloi and the _rue +du Vieux-Palais_, were erected; one of them still remains, it is the +Hotel da Bourgtheroulde, which I have already described. The old market +was thus divided, into two unequal parts. The spot where the innocent +_Joan of Arc_ was burnt in 1431, retains the name of _place de la +Pucelle_. It is also called _place du Marche-aux-Veaux_, on account of +its former destination. It is then on the old market place, that the +French heroine was sacrificed to the superstition of that age. + + +NEW MARKET. + +Fruit, eggs, cream cheeses, or small Neufchatel cheeses: such are the +supplies to be found in this market. About fifty years ago, a gilt +leaden statue, representing Louis XVth in his youth, and covered with +the royal mantle, was to be seen. This monument has been replaced by the +present obelisk, which furnishes an abundant supply of water to the +inhabitants of this quarter. + + +PLACE NOTRE-DAME. + +Before 1429, this place served as a poultry and grass market. In 1537, +it was paved and enclosed with a low wall. In 1641, two stone Crosses, +still visible in some ancient engravings, were placed at the two +corners. In the time of _Pommeraye_, the _parvis_ Notre-Dame, was the +place on which bonfires were lighted. At present it is the flower and +seed market, regularly held on the sundays and fridays. + + +PLACE DE LA CALENDE. + +It was formerly called _Port-Morant_, _port des navires_, or _port de +Notre-Dame_, because, before the first dukes enclosed the Seine within +certain limits, the vessels discharged their cargoes at this place. The +house which is exactly opposite the porch of the church and on which we +distinguish a dial, is the remains of the old _Hotel-Dieu_. + + +THE ROUGEMARE. + +In the year 949, Otho, emperor of Germany, Louis IVth, king of France, +and Arnold, count of Flanders, laid siege to the town of Rouen. The duke +Richard Ist, surnamed _Sans-Peur_, made a _sortie_ by the _porte +Beauvoisine_, and fell on the enemies of which he made a great +slaughter. This action took place partly on the site of the present +_Rouge-Mare_ (red-pool), from the blood with which it was covered. + +In 1450, the _Rouge-Mare_ became the horse market, which has, since the +end of the last century, been transferred to the _Boulingrin_. The +_Rouge-Mare_ is now the butter market. + + +THE BOULINGRIN. + +The English have returned to the French that which they had borrowed of +them. Formerly, people did not go to walk on the _boulevard_, but on the +_boule-verd_, from which the english have made _bowling-green_, a +literal translation. From this word, the french derive their +_Boulingrin_. + +This place is situated at the junction of the rampes Beauvoisine and +Saint-Hilaire; it is a vast square surrounded by a magnificent double +row of horse chestnut trees. Since the horse market has been transferred +to it, people commonly call it the _new Rouge-Mare_. + + + + +PUBLIC LIBRARY, + +PICTURE GALLERY AND MUSEUMS. + + +PUBLIC LIBRARY, + +_At the Town Hall._ + +The opening of this library took place on the 4th july 1809. Since +then, the inhabitants and strangers are admited into this establishment +every day, (except Sundays, thursdays and during the vacations), from +eleven till four, and from 6 till 9 o'clock in the evening. The present +collection, consists of about thirty five thousand volumes. There are +above eleven hundred manuscripts. Several of them are very curious and +rare, from their date, their illuminations, or their subjects. Amongst +the first, although not the most ancient, I will mention the famous +_Gradual_ by Daniel d'Aubonne, who died in the year 1714. It measures +two feet seven inches in length by one foot ten inches in breadth and +weighs seventy three pounds. It is ornamented with brass plates; on each +side of the binding, we may observe the armorial bearings of the abbey +of Saint-Ouen, which are also of brass. This manuscript contains about +two hundred vignettes, initials of all sizes, and also a great number of +gilt letters. One cannot admire too much the patience of the author, who +passed thirty years, it is said, on this immense undertaking. The +library contains also other manuscripts, infinitely more precious, +amongst which are several of the XIth, IXth, and even of the VIIth +and VIIIth centuries. The learned will distinguish amongst the most +important of the manuscripts, the curious missal of archbishop Robert, +which was brought from England about the year 1050, with the +_benedictionary_, which was used at the coronation of the Anglo-Saxon +Kings. These two manuscripts are ornamented with magnificent miniatures +in the greek style of the empire. The books printed before the year 1500 +amount to three hundred and twenty eight, of which two hundred and forty +bear dates; the most ancient is of 1468. + +The library contains also collections of great value and editions which +have become very rare. The government has enriched it with several very +valuable works. The most important gift that has yet been made to the +library, is that which was sent, by the commission of records in +England, of the collection of historical documents, which they have +published. This magnificent gift, which will be followed by several +others, is composed of 71 vols. folio, and 168 vols. 8 vo. + +The Leber's magnificent collection of books and manuscripts, bought last +year by the city, will shortly be added to the public library. + +The present keeper is M.A. Pottier. + + +PICTURE GALLERY, + +_At the Town Hall._ + +The opening of the picture gallery took place on the same day (4th july +1809), as that of the library. The greater part of the paintings have +been collected in the departement. The government has also assisted in +enriching it, by giving several paintings of different schools, the +municipal council by voting different acquisitions, and some private +persons, by voluntary gifts. This interesting collection is composed of +about three hundred paintings, amongst which we remark _a Virgin in the +midst of Angels_, called _the Virgin of Saint-Sixte_, by Raphael, an +admirable copy, if not a second original of the picture known under the +same name in the gallery of Dresden; also three small paintings, placed +next to each other, and which are incontestably by that great painter +and in his best style; the Van Eyck representing _the Virgin in the +midst of young girls; a mass during the league_, a painting which is +curious on account of the subject and great personnages which it +represents; _a Conversion of saint Matthew_, by Valentin; _a saint +Francis in prayer_, by Hannibal Carrache; _an Ecce Homo_ and a copy of +the _Holy family_, by Mignard; _a death of saint Francis_, by Jouvenet; +several marines, by Vernet; _a descent from the Cross_, by Lahire; _the +plague of Milan_, by Lemonnier, of Rouen; and a great many others, which +it would require too much room to mention here. At the extremity of the +entrance gallery, we remark a statue of baked clay by Caffiery[22], +representing Pierre Corneille. Several marble statues and plaster castes +of the finest ancient statues, are placed in the room at the extremity +of this gallery. The statues which we observe in the lobby are those of +general Bonchamps, by David, and opposite, that of Achilles, by Bougron. +The latter belongs to the academy, which possesses also the magnificent +painting by Mr Court, representing _Corneille complimented in the +theatre by the great Conde_ and the fine _portrait of Boieldieu_, by Mr +Boullenger de Boisfremont. These two paintings are placed in the hall of +the academy, adjoining that of the library and picture gallery; +strangers are permitted to see them. + +During the month of July, there is an exhibition of paintings, +principally by artists of Rouen. + +The establishment is open to the public on sundays and thursdays, and +every day to painters and strangers, from ten till four o'clock. + +The present keeper is M.H. Bellange. + +[Footnote 22: Another statue of Corneille, in marble, is placed in the +large hall on the ground floor; it is a much esteemed work of Cortot, a +french sculptor.] + + +MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES. + +_At Saint-Mary's, rue Poussin._ + +This museum, which was established in 1833, after a proposition of Mr +Dupont-Delporte, prefect, by the general council of the departement, was +opened to the public in 1834. It occupies two of the galleries of the +cloister of the ancient convent of Saint-Mary. In the first gallery are +the gallic, roman and gallo-roman antiquities, as also those of the +middle ages; in the second, those of the period, termed the +_renaissance_. This chronological order has been preserved as much as +possible. The searches which have taken place in different parts of the +departement, and especially in the roman theatre at Lillebonne, have +produced the greater number of antiquities. A great many others are +through the generosity of private individuals. This museum contains +statues, busts, bas-reliefs, fragments of architecture, sarcophagi, urns +of marble and stone; vases of bronze, glass and baked earth; gallic and +roman medals, pieces of french coins, seals of the middle ages, stained +glass, arms, pieces of furniture, utensils and ornaments of different +ages. + +This museum is open on sundays and holy days from eleven till four +o'clock, and on tuesdays and thursdays for amateurs and strangers, from +twelve till three o'clock. + +The keeper is Mr A. Deville. + + +MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY. + +_At Saint-Mary's, rue Poussin._ + +The municipal administration of Rouen founded the gallery of natural +history, in 1827; but, it was only in the year 1832, and after having +been enriched by the administration of that time, that it was judged fit +to be offered to public curiosity. + +The increase of this museum has been rapid; already, within its few +years of existence, it may be advantageously compared with most +provincial collections; and through the maritime situation of the town, +may one day be placed immediately after that at Paris. It is remarkable, +for the numerous shells which it possesses, as also for some mammiferi, +which are exceedingly rare. This gallery is open to the public, on +sundays and holy days; foreigners and students may enter on any day. + +Mr Pouchet is the director of this establishment. + + + +LEARNED SOCIETIES. + + +ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES, ARTS AND BELLES-LETTRES. + + +FREE SOCIETY OF EMULATION. + + +CENTRAL SOCIETY OF AGRICULTURE. + + +SOCIETY FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY. + + +SOCIETY OF MEDICINE. + + +APOTHECARIES SOCIETY. + + +SOCIETY OF THE FRIENDS OF ARTS. + + +HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. + + +COMMISSION OF ANTIQUITIES. + + +PHILHARMONIC SOCIETY. + + + + +BOTANICAL GARDEN. + + +This garden was formerly situated on the _Cours-Dauphin_, but, the +municipal administration wishing to render that portion of the town +named Martainville, more healthy, entertained the project of opening a +street at the entrance of the town, on the ground occupied by this +garden; in consequence they sought another place, more suitable for a +botanical garden. The place fixed upon, is the _park of Trianon_, where +people formerly went, to visit the fine hot houses, and rare collection +of dahlias and other plants, which belonged to a distinguished english +florist, Mr Calvert. + +This new botanical garden, is situated at the extremity of the rue +d'Elbeuf, and forms a square of about 45,500 metres (or yards) surface. +Mr Lejeune, an architect, gave the plan of this garden. + + +LECTURES ON CHEMISTRY. + +These lectures take place every year, (beginning the 15th november), on +tuesdays and saturdays at one o'clock, in one of the halls of the +ancient convent of Saint-Marie. The lectures are principally on the +application of chemistry to arts and industry. + + +LECTURES ON NATURAL PHILOSOPHY. + +These lectures were instituted in 1835; they take place twice a week in +the amphitheatre at Saint-Marie. + + +PUBLIC LESSONS IN DRAWING. + +This school, founded by Mr Descamps, the author of the _lives of +flemish painters_, is now established at Saint-Marie. The lessons +commence in the month of november and finish in the month of august, +from one o'clock till three. + + +LECTURES ON NATURAL HISTORY. + +They take place in the amphitheatre, which is given for this science, +and is situated at Saint-Marie, Poussin street. The lectures take place +on tuesdays and saturdays, during the winter, at eight o'clock in the +evening. + +There are besides, at Saint-Marie, every sunday, lectures on geometry +and mechanics applied to arts and manufactures, and lectures also on +commercial law and book keeping. + + +SECONDARY SCHOOL OF MEDICINE. + +The different branches are taught in the hospitals, by the physicians +who are attached to these establishments. + + + + +THEATRES. + + +The _Theatre-des-Arts_ at the corner of the rues _Grand-Pont_ and des +_Charrettes_, was erected by Francis Gueroult, an architect of Rouen. +The first stone was laid on the 18th june 1774, and the opening took +place the 29th june 1776, on Saint-Peter's day and the fete of +Corneille. This theatre was altered and lighted with gas, in 1835, and +will contain about seventeen or eighteen hundred persons. The ceiling +was painted by Lemoine, a native of this city, and represents the +_apotheosis of Corneille_. + +The peristyle fronting the rue des Charrettes is in the form of a +quarter of a circle and is composed of columns of the ionic order. The +medallion of Pierre Corneille is sculptured on the entablature which is +supported by these columns, and on each side of the medallion, we +perceive Melpomene with a dagger, and Thalia with a mask. + +The performers for operas and comedies are generally good. + +The second theatre is situated on the old market place and is called the +_Theatre-Francais_; this building formerly used as a tennis court, was +opened for theatrical purposes on the 2nd of february 1793. This +theatre will contain about twelve hundred persons. Besides these two +theatres, there is a third at the entrance of Saint-Sever, which is the +circus or _Ambigu-Dramatique_. + + + + +PUBLIC WALKS IN ROUEN. + + +COURS BOIELDIEU AND THE EXCHANGE. + +These are the fashionable walks. The bronze statue between the two is +that of Boieldieu, the celebrated french composer a native of Rouen. It +is the work of the sculptor Dantan the younger. + + +COURS DE LA REINE. + +According to _Farin_, this public walk was formed for a walk for the +ladies, and is one of the finest in the kingdom; its length is about 674 +fathoms. Four rows of large elms form the whole length on the banks of +the Seine. On holy-thursday, the _Cours-de-la-Reine_ begins to be used +as a fashionable promenade, and it may be said that on that day, it has +a very gay appearance. + + +AVENUES OF MONT-RIBOUDET, AND COURS-DAUPHIN. + +The first is the principal entrance to Rouen from Havre and Dieppe, and +the second, at the opposite extremity of the quay, the entrance from +Paris, Evreux, etc. + + +THE BOULEVARDS. + +They occupy, for the greater part, the place of the ditches which +surrounded the town; they were planted between the years 1770 and 1780 +and were paved in 1783, at the expense of the town. They are about 3 +miles in length. + + +WALKS WITHOUT THE TOWN. + +Mount Saint-Catherine first presents itself. We may go to it, either by +the Paris high road, or by the _petites eaux_ Martainville. The last +mentioned, although the least frequented, is perhaps the preferable +route on account of the diversity of the landscape. + +It will be useless for the traveller, when he has reached the top of the +hill, to look for the ancient abbey of the _Sainte-Trinite-du-Mont_, the +chapel of the _priory of Saint-Michel_, or the fortifications, in which +the marquis of Villars withstood the attacks of Henry IVth; nothing of +them remains at the present day, except two remnants of a wall, which +threaten to fall on the traveller, who is imprudent enough to approach +too near them. + +From this elevated position, in turning towards the north-east, we see +the valley of _Darnetal_, which has become so rich through the industry +of those who inhabit it. The eye reposes with pleasure on the gothic +tower of the church of _Carville_; and of which, according to tradition, +Henry IVth, made a post of observation when he besieged the fort of the +_ligue_. We must not forget that an English detachment, which served in +the army of the king, conducted itself very bravely in the different +attacks, with which it was entrusted. On the opposite side of the valley +of Darnetal and towards the north, we distinguish the hill named _des +Sapins_, on which the monumental burying ground is situated. This latter +hill adjoins the _Bois-Guillaume_ from which also the view is admirable +although inferior to that from the mount Saint-Catherine, which advances +like a promontory, above the immense valley of the Seine, while that of +Bois-Guillaume or Beauvoisine, recedes from the circular line formed by +the union of these different hills. + +The Bois-Guillaume joins _Saint-Aignan_. We cross the latter _commune_, +on our way to _Mont-aux-Malades_, formerly the _Mont-Saint-Jacques_. +Antiquarians will not fail to go and see a church at this place, which +is a venerable remains of norman architecture. There were two, but the +other is now almost destroyed. Travellers should also visit the hill of +_Canteleu_ from which the view is very fine, and at the same time the +country house of M. Elie Lefebure, called the _Chateau of Canteleu_. + + + + +BURYING GROUNDS OF ROUEN. + + +There are at present, five burying grounds for the roman catholics, and +two for the protestants. They are the burying grounds of +_Saint-Gervais_, _Beauvoisine_, _Val-de-la-Jatte_, of which a part has +been walled off for the protestants; _Mont-Gargan_, _Saint-Sever_, and +_Champ-des-Oiseaux_, which latter forms the second protestant burying +ground. The great demand of families, to obtain a piece of ground, on +which to erect a monument on the tomb of a relation, had caused a great +diminution of ground for interments; the municipal administration +therefore took measures to prevent the consequences of it. On the +proposition of the marquis de Martainville, then mayor of the town they +determined, on the 24th april 1823, that a monumental burying should be +established on the east of Rouen, on a portion of the hill of Fir-Trees +which was barren, and could be disposed of without any loss. + +This new burying ground contains about ten acres of ground, enclosed +with walls. A chapel is erected on the highest point of the hill; and a +vault has been formed under it for the provisional deposit of bodies, +which cannot be interred immediately. A tariff exists, which regulates +the sum to be paid by families, who wish to purchase a place in this +burying ground. + + +THE END. + +[Illustration: Map] + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +Historical introduction 1. + + +RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS. + +Parochial churches. + +Cathedral 19. + +Saint-Ouen 56. + +Saint-Maclou 69. + +Saint-Patrice 74. + +Sainte-Madeleine 76. + +Saint-Sever 77. + +Saint-Romain 79. + +Saint-Godard 85. + +Saint-Nicaise 88. + +Saint-Vincent 90. + +Saint-Vivien 92. + + +Chapels of ease. + +Saint-Gervais 93. + +Saint-Hilaire 96. + +Saint-Paul 96. + + +Protestant worship. + +Saint-Eloi 99. + + +Churches closed in 1791 101. + + +CIVIL MONUMENTS. + +Town hall (Hotel-de-Ville) 104. + +Archiepiscopal palace 106. + +Palace-of-Justice 103. + +Tower of the Grosse-Horloge 113. + +Coverted markets 116. + +Exchange (la Hourse) 120. + +Tribunal of commerce or the Consuls 122. + +Custom house (la Douane) 123. + +Public slaughterhouse (les Abbatoirs) 126. + +Royal college 129. + + +Hospitals 131. + + +Prisons 141. + + +Soldiers-Barracks 142. + + +Remarkable edifices. + +Hotel du Bourgtheroulde 144. + +Ancient abbey of Saint-Amand 146. + +Ancient bureau des finances 149. + +Remarkable houses and celebrated men 150. + + +Bridges. + +Stone bridge and statue of Corneille 152. + +Suspension bridge 155. + + +River and rivulets 157. + + +Fountains 160. + + +Mineral waters 165. + + +Squares and marketplaces 166. + +The maid of Orleans, etc. 167. + + +Library, picture gallery and museums. + +Public library 171. + +Picture gallery 174. + +Museum of antiquities 177. + +Museum of natural history 179. + + +Learned societies 180. + +Botanical garden, etc. 181. + +Public and gratuitous courses of instruction 189. + + +Theatres 184. + + +Walks in Rouen 186. + + +Walks without the town 188. + + +Burying grounds 190. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rouen, It's History and Monuments, by +Theodore Licquet + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUEN, IT'S HISTORY AND MONUMENTS *** + +***** This file should be named 18740.txt or 18740.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/7/4/18740/ + +Produced by R. 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