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diff --git a/18252-h/18252-h.htm b/18252-h/18252-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c942aa3 --- /dev/null +++ b/18252-h/18252-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,8410 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Hertfordshire, by AUTHOR. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- +/***************************************************** + basics +******************************************************/ +body { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; } +p { margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em; line-height: 1.5; } +/* all headings centered */ +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { text-align: center; clear: both; } +h1,h2 { margin-top: 5em; } +h1 {margin-bottom: 3em;} +hr { width: 33%; clear: both; + margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; } + +/* this requires all <a name="blah"> anchors to be empty. 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Centered, but put in a div class="center" too for IE. */ +table { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; + text-align: left; empty-cells: show; + margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top:1em;} +td { padding-right: 1em; padding-left: 1em;text-align: left; + margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0; + vertical-align: top;} +td.illotoc {text-indent:-1em; margin-left: 1em;} +.tight td {padding-right: 0;} +/*********************************************************** + end +************************************************************/ + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hertfordshire + +Author: Herbert W Tompkins + +Illustrator: Edmund H. New + +Release Date: April 25, 2006 [EBook #18252] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE *** + + + + +Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="transnote"> +<h3>Transcriber’s note</h3> + +<p>A few corrections have +been made for obvious typographical errors; they have been <a class="correction" href="#corrections" title="Like this">noted +individually</a>, and, together with other notes, <a href="#corrections">listed</a> at the end of the e-text. </p> +</div> + +<div class="center biggap"> + <a id="endpaper" name="endpaper"></a> +<a href="images/endpaper-front.png"> + <img src="images/endpaper_thumb.png" + alt="The Railways of Hertfordshire " + title="The Railways of Hertfordshire" + height="238" width="300"/> +</a> + <p class="caption">The Railways of Hertfordshire</p> +</div> + + +<h1>HERTFORDSHIRE</h1> + + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo001" name="illo001"></a> + <img src="images/illo001.png" + alt="ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH" + title="ST. ALBAN'S ABBEY CHURCH" + height="370" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">ST. ALBAN’S ABBEY CHURCH</p> +</div> + +<div class="titlepage narrow biggap"> +<p class="biggest center gaparound"> +HERTFORDSHIRE</p> + +<p class="center big bt padt"> +<i>By</i><br /> + +HERBERT W. TOMPKINS<br /> + +<span class="little">F.R.Hist.S.</span></p> + +<p class="center big bb padb"> +<i>With Illustrations by</i><br /> + +EDMUND H. NEW<br /> +<span class="little"> +AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS<br /> + +AND TWO MAPS</span></p> + +<div class="poem narrow"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Hearty, homely, loving Hertfordshire”<br /></span> +</div> +<p class="toright">—<span class="smcap">Charles Lamb</span></p> +</div> + +<p class="center big bt padt"> +LONDON<br /> + +METHUEN & CO. LTD.<br /> + +<i>36 Essex St. Strand</i></p> +</div> + +<p class="center"> +<i>Second Edition, Revised</i> +</p> + + +<div class="center biggap"> +<table summary="Publication information"> + <tr><td><i>First Published</i></td><td class="center"><i> March 1903</i></td></tr> +<tr><td><i>Second Edition, Revised</i></td><td class="center"><i>1922</i></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + + + + +<p class="center biggap big"> +<span class="little">TO</span><br /> + +MY WIFE +</p> + + +<hr class="biggap" /> + +<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii"></a>[Pg vii]</span><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>In the following pages I have endeavoured to give a brief description of +Hertfordshire on the lines of Mr. F. G. Brabant’s book in this series. +The general features of the county are briefly described in the +<a href="#INTRODUCTION" >Introduction</a>, in sections approximately corresponding to the sections of +the volume on Sussex. I have thought it wise, however, to compress the +Introduction within the briefest limits, in order that, in the +Gazetteer, I might have space for more adequate treatment than would +otherwise have been possible.</p> + +<p>I have visited a large proportion of the towns, villages and hamlets of +Hertfordshire, and have, so far as possible, written from personal +observation.</p> + +<p>I desire to thank Mr. John Hopkinson, F.L.S., F.G.S., etc., for his +kindness in writing the sections on <i>Climate</i> and <i>Botany</i>; Mr. A. E. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii"></a>[Pg viii]</span>Gibbs, F.L.S., F.R.H.S., for his permission to make use of several +miscellanies from his pen, and Mr. Alfred Bentley of New Barnet for his +courtesy in placing some photographs from his collection at the disposal +of Mr. New.</p> + +<p> +<span class="smcap">Verulam,<br /> +Southend-on-Sea,<br /> +1903.</span><br /> +</p> + + + + + +<hr /> +<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix"></a>[Pg ix]</span><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Table of contents"> + <tr><td colspan="2"></td><td class="toright"><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Introduction</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroI" >I</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Situation, Extent and Boundaries</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroII" >II</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Physical Features</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_2">2</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIII" >III</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Climate</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIV" >IV</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Flora and Fauna</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroV" >V</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Population</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVI" >VI</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Communications</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVII" >VII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Industries</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroVIII" >VIII</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">History</span> </td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroIX" >IX</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td class="toright"><a href="#IntroX" >X</a></td><td> <span class="smcap">Celebrated Men</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Description of Places in Hertfordshire +arranged Alphabetically</span></td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Index to Persons</span> </td><td class="toright"> <a href="#Page_235">235</a></td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x"></a>[Pg x]</span></p> + + + +<hr class="biggap" /> +<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi"></a>[Pg xi]</span><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS_AND_MAPS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS</h2> + + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="List of illustrations"> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#endpaper" >The Railways of Hertfordshire</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <i><a href="#endpaper" >Front Cover</a></i> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo001" >The Abbey Church, St. Albans</a></span> <br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <i><a href="#illo001" >Frontispiece</a></i> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo002" >Leafless Beeches in November, Ashridge Woods</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <i>To face page</i> <a href="#illo002" >2</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo003" >On the River Colne</a></span> <br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <a href="#illo003" >8</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"> <a href="#illo004" >Grand Junction Canal at Tring—The Highest Water Level in England</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <a href="#illo004" >10</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"> <a href="#illo005" >The Parish Church, Aldbury</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <a href="#illo005" >47</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo006" >Ashridge House</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <a href="#illo006" >53</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo007" >Old Cottage, Baldock</a></span> <br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"> + <a href="#illo007" >59</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo008" >Castle Street, Berkhampstead</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Mr. J. T. Newman, Great Berkhampstead</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo008" >72</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo009" >Bishop’s Stortford</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo009" >74</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo010" >Broxbourne</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo010" >79</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo011" >Chorley Wood Common</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co.</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo011" >87</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo012" >Hatfield House</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo012" >109</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo013" >King James’s Drawing-Room, Hatfield House</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo013" >111</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo014" >Hemel Hempstead</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo014" >115</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo015" >Hertford</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo015" >117</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii"></a>[Pg xii]</span> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo016" >Hitchin</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo016" >125</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo017" >Knebworth Park</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo017" >139</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo018" >Old Cottages near Mackery End</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by the Author</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo018" >146</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo019" >Rickmansworth</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by the London Stereoscopic & Photo. Co.</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo019" >170</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo020" >The High Street, Royston</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo020" >172</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo021" >The Fighting Cocks, St. Albans—The Oldest Inn in England</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photo. by Messrs. Valentine, Dundee</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo021" >178</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo022" >Bacon’s Monument</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo022" >183</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo023" >Ruins of Bacon’s House</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo023" >184</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo024" >St. Alban’s Shrine</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by the Graphotone Co., Enfield</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo024" >192</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo025" >Stevenage Church</a></span><br /> + (<i>From a Photograph by Messrs. Frith, Reigate</i>) + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo025" >204</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo026" >Waltham Cross</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo026" >214</a> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="illotoc"> + <span class="smcap"><a href="#illo027" >Map of Hertfordshire</a></span> + </td> + <td class="toright"><a href="#illo027" >233</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + + + + +<hr class="biggap" /> +<h2><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1"></a>[Pg 1]</span><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2> + + +<h3><a name="IntroI" id="IntroI"></a>I. <span class="smcap">Situation, Extent and Boundaries</span></h3> + +<p>Hertfordshire, or Herts, is a county in the S.E. of England. On the S. +it is bounded by Middlesex; on the S.W. by Buckinghamshire; on the N.W. +by Bedfordshire; on the N. by Cambridgeshire; on the E. by Essex. Its +extreme measurement from due E. to W., say from Little Hyde Hall to +Puttenham, is about 38 miles; from N. to S., from Mobb’s Hole at the top +of Ashwell Common to a point just S. of Totteridge Green, about 30 +miles; but a longer line, 36 miles in length, may be drawn from Mobb’s +Hole to Troy Farm in the S.W. Its boundaries are very irregular; the +neighbourhood of Long Marston is almost surrounded by Buckinghamshire +and Bedfordshire, that of Hinxworth by Cambridgeshire and Bedfordshire, +and that of Barnet by Middlesex. Its extreme points are:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Latitudes and longitudes" class="tight"> + <tr><td>N. </td><td>Lat. </td><td class="toright">52° </td><td class="toright"> 5´ </td><td>(N.)</td></tr> + <tr><td>E. </td><td>Long. </td><td class="toright"> 0° </td><td class="toright">13´ </td><td>(E.)</td></tr> + <tr><td>W. </td><td>Long. </td><td class="toright"> 0° </td><td class="toright">45´ </td><td>(W.)</td></tr> + <tr><td>S. </td><td>Lat. </td><td class="toright">51° </td><td class="toright">36´ </td><td>(N.)</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>Its area is 404,523 acres or 632 square miles. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2"></a>[Pg 2]</span>It is one of the +smallest counties in England, the still smaller counties being Rutland, +Middlesex, Huntingdon, Bedford and Monmouth. Hertfordshire is one of the +six home counties.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo002" name="illo002"></a> + <img src="images/illo002.jpg" + alt="LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS" + title="LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS" + height="420" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">LEAFLESS BEECHES IN NOVEMBER, ASHRIDGE WOODS</p> +</div> + + +<h3><a name="IntroII" id="IntroII"></a>II. <span class="smcap">Physical Features</span></h3> + +<p>Hertfordshire, being an inland county, is naturally devoid of many +charms to be found in those counties which have a sea-coast. But it has +beauties of its own, being particularly varied and undulating. Its +scenery is pleasantly diversified by many woods, which however are +mostly of but small extent, by swelling cornfields, and by several small +and winding streams. There is much rich loam in the many little +valley-bottoms traversed by these streams, and other loams of inferior +quality are found in abundance on the higher levels of the arable +districts. The soil in many parts, owing to the preponderance of chalk, +is specially adapted to the cultivation of wheat. Its trees have +elicited the admiration of many, particularly its oaks and elms, of +which colossal specimens are found here and there throughout the county, +and its beeches, of which the beautiful woods on the Chiltern slopes and +elsewhere in the W. are largely composed. The hornbeam is almost +restricted to Essex and Hertfordshire. The woods of Hertfordshire form +indeed its sweetest attraction in the eyes of many. The districts of +Rickmansworth, Radlett, Wheathampstead and Breachwood Green, among +others, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3"></a>[Pg 3]</span>are dotted with coppices of ideal loveliness, and larger +woods such as Batch Wood near St. Albans and Bricket Wood near Watford +are carpeted with flowers in their season, interspersed with glades, and +haunted by jays and doves, by ringlets and brimstones. Hazel woods +abound, and parties of village children busily “a-nutting” in the autumn +are one of the commonest sights of the county. It abounds, too, in quiet +park-like spots which are the delight of artists, and contains many +villages and hamlets picturesquely situated upon slopes and embowered +among trees. A large proportion of the birds known to English observers +are found in the county either regularly or as chance visitors, and will +be treated more fully in a separate section. The many narrow, winding, +flower-scented lanes are one of the chief beauties of Hertfordshire. The +eastern part of the county, though, on the whole, less charming to the +eye than the rest, contains some fine manor houses and interesting old +parish churches. Its most beautiful part is unquestionably the W., near +the Buckinghamshire border; its greatest historic interest centres +around St. Albans, with its wonderful old abbey church now largely +restored; Berkhampstead, Hertford, Hatfield and Hitchin. The county +contains rather less than the average of waste or common land; the +stretches of heath used for grazing purposes only aggregating 1,200 +acres.</p> + +<p>Among the finest panoramic views may be mentioned:—</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4"></a>[Pg 4]</span>(1) From the hill near Boxmoor Station.</p> + +<p>(2) From the village of Wigginton, looking S.</p> + +<p>(3) From the high-road between Graveley and Baldock.</p> + +<p>(4) From Windmill Hill, Hitchin, looking W.</p> + +<p>There were medicinal waters at Barnet, Northaw, Hemel Hempstead and +Welwyn, but these are now disused. Many other details touching +physiographical characteristics are mentioned as occasion arises in the +Alphabetical Gazetteer which follows this Introduction.</p> + +<p>The Geology of Hertfordshire must be here summarised in few words. The +predominant formations are the Cretaceous and the Tertiary.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cretaceous.</span>—Ignoring the Gault, which barely touches the +county, this formation consists chiefly of Chalk-marl, Lower, Middle and +Upper Chalk. A series of Chalk Downs, an extension of the Chiltern +Hills, stretches, roughly speaking, from Tring to Royston, forming by +far the most prominent natural feature of Hertfordshire. The oldest +rocks are in the N.W.</p> + +<p><i>The Chalk Marl</i> is superimposed upon the Gault and Upper Greensand +beds, which are confined to the western portion of the county. Its upper +layer passes into a sandy limestone, known as Totternhoe stone, which +has furnished materials for many churches in the shire. Ashwell, Pirton +and Tring may be named as neighbourhoods where this stratum may be +traced.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a>[Pg 5]</span><i>The Lower Chalk</i> is devoid of flints, and rests, in somewhat steeply +sloping beds, upon the Totternhoe stone. It forms the western slopes of +the Dunstable Downs, and of the Chiltern Hills. It is fossiliferous, one +of the commonest of its shells being the Terebratula.</p> + +<p><i>The Middle Chalk</i>, of resonant hardness, is laminated, and has at its +base the Melbourn Rock and at its summit the Chalk Rock. Nodules of +flint, greenish in appearance, and (rarely) arranged in layers, occur +sparsely in the Middle Chalk, which may be traced in the neighbourhood +of Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Baldock, and also in a few other +districts.</p> + +<p><i>The Upper Chalk.</i>—Although, as has been stated, the configuration of +Hertfordshire is very undulating, we are able to discern a general trend +in certain districts. Thus, there is a gradual slope to the S. from the +N.W. and central hills, a slope which comprises the larger part of the +county. This slope is formed of the Upper Chalk, a formation abounding +in layers of black flints. The chalk is whiter than that of the lower +beds, and very much softer. Fossil sponges, sea-urchins, etc., are +abundant in this formation.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Tertiary.</span>—Many of the chalk hills of Hertfordshire are strewn +with outlying more recent deposits which prove that the lower Tertiary +beds were more extensive in remote ages. The beds of sand and clay, of +such frequent occurrence in the S.E. districts, contain <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>[Pg 6]</span>fossils so +distinct from those of the Upper Chalk that an immense interval must +have elapsed before those Tertiary deposits were in turn laid down.</p> + +<p><i>The Eocene Formation.</i>—The <i>Thanet Beds</i>, of light-coloured sands, +present in some other parts of the London Basin, notably in Kent, are +wanting in Hertfordshire. There are, however, some widespread deposits +of loamy sands which may possibly be rearranged material from the Thanet +Beds.</p> + +<p>The lowest Eocene deposits in the county are the <i>Reading Beds</i>. These +rest directly upon the Chalk and have an average thickness of, say, 25 +feet. They may be traced E. to S.W. from the brickfields near Hertford +to Hatfield Park; thence to the kilns on Watford Heath and at Bushey; +they may also be traced from Watford to Harefield Park. These beds +contain flints, usually found close to the Chalk, and consist chiefly of +mottled clays, sands, and pebble-beds. Fossils are but rarely found. +From the Woolwich and Reading Beds come those conglomerate masses of +flint pebbles commonly called Hertfordshire <i>plum-pudding stone</i>. These +have usually a silicious matrix and were often used by the Romans and +others for making querns for corn-grinding. It is, perhaps, not +impertinent to mention here the opinion of geologists that during the +<i>Eocene Period</i> a considerable portion of the land usually spoken of as +S.E. England was covered by the ocean.</p> + +<p>Resting upon the <i>Reading Beds</i> we find <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>[Pg 7]</span>that well-known stratum called +the <i>London Clay</i>, which is of bluish hue when dug at any considerable +depth. It is found in some of the same districts as the <i>Woolwich</i> and +<i>Reading Beds</i>, and from Hertford and Watford it extends to N.E. and +S.W. respectively until it leaves Hertfordshire. Its direction may be +approximately traced by a series of hills, none of which are of any +great height.</p> + +<p><i>The Drift.</i>—In Hertfordshire, as elsewhere, the strata whose names are +so familiar to geologists do not form the existing <i>surface</i> of the +ground. For the origin of this we go back to a comparatively recent +period, when disintegration was busily working upon the solid rocks, and +glaciers were moving southwards, leaving stones and much loose <i>débris</i> +in their wake. Rivers, some of which, as in the Harpenden valley, have +long ceased to run, separated the flints from the chalk, forming a +gravel which is found in quantities at Harpenden, Wheathampstead and St. +Albans, and is, indeed, present in all valley-bottoms, even where no +river now runs. Gravel, together with clays, sand, and alluvial loams, +forms, for the most part, the actual surface of the county.</p> + +<p><a name="Rivers" id="Rivers"></a><i>The Rivers</i> of Hertfordshire are many, if we include several so small +as hardly to deserve the name. They are the Ash, Beane, Bulbourne, +Chess, Colne, Gade, Hiz, Ivel, Lea, Maran, Purwell, Quin, Rhee, Rib, +Stort and Ver.</p> + +<p>1. <i>The Ash</i> rises near Little Hadham, and, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>[Pg 8]</span>passing the village of +Widford, joins the Lea at Stanstead.</p> + +<p>2. <i>The Beane</i>, rising in the parish of Cottered, runs to Walkern, where +it passes close to the church, and flows from thence past Aston and +Watton, and into the Lea at Hertford.</p> + +<p>3. <i>The Bulbourne</i> rises in the parish of Tring, passes N.E. of +Berkhampstead and S.W. of Hemel Hempstead and unites with the Gade at +Two Waters.</p> + +<p>4. <i>The Chess</i> enters the county from Buckinghamshire at Sarratt Mill, +and flowing past Loudwater joins the Gade at Rickmansworth. The Valley +of the Chess is one of the prettiest districts in the shire.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo003" name="illo003"></a> + <img src="images/illo003.jpg" + alt="ON THE RIVER COLNE" + title="ON THE RIVER COLNE" + height="446" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">ON THE RIVER COLNE</p> +</div> + +<p>5. <i>The Colne</i> rises near Sleap’s Hyde, is crossed by the main road from +Barnet to St. Albans at London Colney, and by the main road from Edgware +to St. Albans at Colney Street. Thence it passes between Bushey Hall and +Bushey Lodge, flows through Watford to Rickmansworth where, uniting with +the Gade and Chess, it enters Middlesex near Stocker’s Farm.</p> + +<p>6. <i>The Gade</i> rises near Little Gaddesden, skirts Hemel Hempstead Church +on the W. side, and passing King’s Langley and Hunton Bridge, flows +through Cassiobury Park and joins the Chess and Colne at Rickmansworth.</p> + +<p>7. <i>The Hiz</i>, rising at Well Head, S.W. of Hitchin, crosses that town, +joins the Purwell at Grove Mill and leaves the county at Cadwell.</p> + +<p>8. <i>The Ivel</i> rises near Baldock, flows to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>[Pg 9]</span>Radwell Mill and shortly +afterwards enters Bedfordshire.</p> + +<p>9. <i>The Lea</i> is the largest river in Hertfordshire. It rises near +Leagrave (in Bedfordshire) and flows through the county from N.W. to +S.E. Entering Hertfordshire at Hide Mill, it flows past Wheathampstead, +Hatfield, Hertford, Ware, and, leaving the county near Waltham Abbey, +enters the Thames at Blackwall. Its entire length is about 50 miles. The +waterway known as the <i>Lea and Stort Navigation</i> is navigable to +Bishop’s Stortford.</p> + +<p>10. <i>The Maran</i>, or <i>Mimram</i>, rises in the parish of King’s Walden, +skirts Whitwell on the N., running parallel with the village street, and +passing through Welwyn and near Tewin enters the Lea at Hertingfordbury.</p> + +<p>11. <i>The Purwell</i>, or <i>Pirall</i>, rises in the parish of Ippollits and +passing W. of Great Wymondley runs to Purwell Mill, and joins the Hiz at +Grove Mill.</p> + +<p>12. <i>The Quin</i> rises in the neighbourhood of Wyddial, and passing +Quinbury, unites with the Rib at Braughing.</p> + +<p>13. <i>The Rhee</i>, rising a little E. of Ashwell, has but a few miles to +flow before it enters Cambridgeshire.</p> + +<p>14. <i>The Rib</i> rises at Corney Bury, flows E. of Buntingford, thence +turning W. it flows under the bridge at the <i>Adam and Eve</i>, runs to +Westmill, Standon and Thundridge, finally uniting with the Lea at +Hertford.</p> + +<p>15. <i>The Stort</i> enters Hertfordshire from Essex <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a>[Pg 10]</span>at a point near Cannon +Wood Mill, and after passing through Bishop’s Stortford forms the +extreme E. boundary of the county for some distance before quitting it +near Cheshunt.</p> + +<p>16. <i>The Ver</i> rises near Flamstead, is crossed by the Dunstable Road, +N.W. of Redbourn, then recrossed by it. It then skirts St. Albans on the +S. and joins the Colne near Park Street.</p> + +<p>In addition to the cutting of the <i>Lea and Stort Navigation</i> already +mentioned, there are other artificial waterways:—</p> + +<p><i>The Aylesbury Canal</i> (a branch of the Grand Junction Canal) crosses the +extreme western neck of the county, from S. of Puttenham to S. of +Gubblecote.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo004" name="illo004"></a> + <img src="images/illo004.jpg" + alt="GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING" + title="GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING" + height="419" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">GRAND JUNCTION CANAL AT TRING<br /> +<i>The highest water level in England</i></p> +</div> + +<p><i>The Grand Junction Canal</i> is largely utilised by barges traversing the +W. of Hertfordshire. It is conspicuous at Rickmansworth, Boxmoor, and +Berkhampstead; it enters Bedfordshire near Marsworth Reservoir.</p> + +<p><i>The New River</i> was constructed by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a London +goldsmith, in 1609-13, and is largely fed by springs at Chadwell near +Hertford. Its course in Hertfordshire is mostly close to and parallel +with that of the Lea. The New River caused the financial ruin of its +projector; one of its shares is now worth a large fortune. The whole +story of this undertaking is very interesting; but as the New River was +cut in order to bring water to London that story belongs to a volume on +Middlesex.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroIII" id="IntroIII"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a>[Pg 11]</span>III. <span class="smcap">Climate</span></h3> + +<p>The chief elements of climate are temperature and rainfall. A general +idea of the mean temperature and rainfall of Hertfordshire, both monthly +and annual, may be gained from an inspection of Bartholomew’s <i>Atlas of +Meteorology</i> (1899). From that work it appears that the mean annual +temperature of the county, if reduced to sea-level (that is, the +theoretical mean for its position) would be 50° or a little above it, +but that the actual mean varies from 46°-48° on the Chiltern Hills to +48°-50° in the rest and much the greater part of Hertfordshire; also +that the mean annual rainfall is between 25 and 30 inches, the latter +amount only being approached towards the Chilterns. Thus altitude is +seen to have a great effect on both these elements of climate.</p> + +<p>Hertfordshire is hilly though not mountainous, a great extent of its +surface being considerably elevated above sea-level, with a general +south-easterly inclination; it has a dry soil; is well watered with +numerous rivers of clear water—already enumerated—chiefly derived from +springs in the Chalk; is well but not too densely wooded; and its +atmosphere is not contaminated by manufacturing towns. It thus maintains +the reputation for salubrity which it gained more than three centuries +ago, our earliest county historian, Norden, remarking on the “salutarie” +nature of the “aire”.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>[Pg 12]</span>Observations taken at the following meteorological stations during the +twelve years 1887 to 1898 have been printed annually in the +<i>Transactions of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society</i>, and a brief +summary of some of the chief results will here be given.</p> + +<p><i>Royston</i> (London Road): lat. 52° 2´ 34´´ N.; long. 0° 1´ 8´´ W.; alt. +301 feet; observer, the late Hale Wortham, F.R.Met.Soc.</p> + +<p><i>Berkhampstead</i> (Rosebank): lat. 51° 45´ 40´´ N.; long. 0° 33´ 30´´ W.; +alt. 400 feet; observer, Edward Mawley, F.R.Met.Soc.</p> + +<p><i>St. Albans</i> (The Grange): lat. 51° 45´ 9´´ N.; long. 0° 20´ 7´´ W.; +alt. 380 feet; observer, John Hopkinson, Assoc.Inst.C.E.</p> + +<p><i>Bennington</i> (Bennington House): lat. 51° 53´ 45´´ N.; long. 0° 20´ 7´´ +W.; alt. 407 feet; observer, Rev. Dr. Parker, F.R.Met.Soc.</p> + +<p><i>New Barnet</i> (Gas Works): lat. 51° 38´ 5´´ N.; long. 0° 10´ 15´´ W.; +alt. 212 feet; observer, T. H. Martin, M.Inst.C.E.</p> + +<p>1. <i>Temperature.</i>—The mean temperature of Hertfordshire, as deduced +from the above observations, is 48.3°. It has varied from 47.0° in 1887 +to 50.2° in 1898. The mean daily range is 15.9°. It was the least +(14.2°) in 1888, and the greatest (18.1°) in 1893. The mean temperature +of the seasons is as follows: spring 46.6°, summer 60.2°, autumn 49.2°, +winter 37.2°. The warmest month is July, with a mean temperature of +61.0°; the coldest is January, with a mean of 36.1°. August is very +little colder than July. In these two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>[Pg 13]</span>months only has the temperature +never been below freezing-point (32°). In December and January only has +it never exceeded 62°. It increases most rapidly during the month of +May, and decreases most rapidly during September and October.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Humidity.</i>—The relative humidity of the air, that is the amount of +moisture it contains short of complete saturation which is represented +by 100, is, at 9 <span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span>, 82. It has varied from 78 in 1893 to 85 +in 1888 and 1889. The air is much drier in spring and summer (78 and 75) +than it is in autumn and winter (86 and 89). There is the least amount +of moisture in the air from April to August (74 to 78), and the greatest +from November to January (90).</p> + +<p>3. <i>Cloud.</i>—The mean amount of cloud at 9 <span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span>, from 0 (clear +sky) to 10 (completely overcast), is 6.7. It has varied from 6.0 in 1893 +to 7.4 in 1888. Spring, summer, and autumn are about equally cloudy (6.5 +to 6.6), and winter is considerably more so (7.2). The sky at 9 +<span class="smcap lowercase">A.M.</span> is brightest in September (6.0) and most cloudy in +November and January (7.5).</p> + +<p>4. <i>Sunshine.</i>—At Berkhampstead only have records of bright sunshine +been taken for the whole of the twelve years. Throughout the year the +sun shines brightly there for nearly four hours a day (3.9). The average +duration in spring is 5.0, in summer 5.8, in autumn 3.2, and in winter +1.6. The duration is least in December and greatest in May; the sun +shining for rather more than an hour a day in December <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>[Pg 14]</span>and nearly six +hours and a half in May. An apparent discrepancy between this and the +preceding section is due to a bright day often following a cloudy +morning and <i>vice versâ</i>.</p> + +<p>5. <i>Wind.</i>—The prevailing direction of the wind, as recorded at +Berkhampstead, St. Albans and Bennington, is from S.W. (sixty-one days +in the year) to W. (sixty-two days), and the next most frequent winds +are N. to N.E. and S. (each about thirty-seven days). The least frequent +are S.E. (twenty-five days). About forty-four days in the year are +recorded as calm.</p> + +<p>6. <i>Rainfall.</i>—Twelve years is much too short a period to give a +trustworthy mean for such a variable element of climate as rainfall, and +five stations are much too few to deduce an average from for +Hertfordshire. The average rainfall at a varying number of stations for +the sixty years 1840 to 1899 (from one station in the first decade of +this period to twenty stations in the last decade) was 26.15 inches. In +the driest year (1854) 17.67 inches fell, and in the wettest (1852) +37.57 inches. Spring has 5.40 inches, summer 6.97, autumn 7.87, and +winter 5.91. The driest months are February and March, each with a mean +of 1.65 inch; April is but very little wetter, having 1.69. The wettest +month is October, with 2.96 inches, and the next is November with 2.56. +The mean number of days of rain in the year, that is of days on which at +least 0.01 inch fell, for the thirty years 1870-99, was 167. Autumn and +winter have each about six more wet days than <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a>[Pg 15]</span>spring and summer. The +rainfall is greatly affected by the form of the ground, the southern and +western hills attracting the rain, which chiefly comes from the S.W., so +greatly that with a mean annual fall of about 26 inches there is a +difference of 3½ inches between that of the river-basin of the Colne on +the W. and that of the river-basin of the Lea on the E., the former +having 28 inches and the latter 24½. The small portion of the +river-basin of the Great Ouse which is within our area has rather less +rain than the average for the county.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroIV" id="IntroIV"></a>IV. <span class="smcap">Flora and Fauna</span></h3> + +<p>In his <i>Cybele Britannica</i>, H. C. Watson divided Britain into eighteen +botanical provinces of which the Thames and the Ouse occupy the whole of +the S.E. of England. The greater part of Hertfordshire is in the Thames +province and a small portion in the N. is in that of the Ouse.</p> + +<p>In Pryor’s <i>Flora of Hertfordshire</i>, published by the Hertfordshire +Natural History Society in 1887, which should be referred to for full +information on the botany of the county, these botanical provinces are +again divided into districts, the Ouse into (1) Cam, (2) Ivel; and the +Thames into (3) Thame, (4) Colne, (5) Brent, (6) Lea; both the larger +provinces and the smaller districts thus being founded on the natural +divisions of a country, drainage areas or catchment basins.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a>[Pg 16]</span>In the following brief notes a few of the rarer or more interesting +flowering plants of each district are enumerated.</p> + +<p>1. <i>The Cam.</i>—This is the most northern district. It is almost entirely +on the Chalk and is very bare of trees. The few plants which are +restricted to it are very rare. A meadow-rue, <i>Thalictrum Jacquinianum</i>, +and the cat’s foot (<i>Antennaria dioica</i>) occur only on Royston and +Therfield Heaths; <i>Alisma ranunculoides</i> and <i>Potamogeton coloratus</i> +only on Ashwell Common; and of the great burnet (<i>Poterium officinale</i>) +the sole record is that of a plant gathered near Ashwell in 1840.</p> + +<p>2. <i>The Ivel.</i>—This district is S.W. of that of the Cam, and the Chalk +Downs of that district are continued through it. Its rarer plants are +<i>Melampyrum arvense</i>, which occurs only in one spot S. of Ashwell; +<i>Smyrnium olusatrum</i>, which has been found near Baldock and Pirton; and +<i>Silene conica</i>, which was found near Hitchin in 1875. The white +helleborine (<i>Cephalanthera pallens</i>), the dwarf orchis (<i>Orchis +ustulata</i>), and the musk orchis (<i>Herminium monorchis</i>) occur on the +Chalk Downs.</p> + +<p>3. <i>The Thame.</i>—A very small tongue-like <a name="cm1" id="cm1"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr1" +title="Original reads 'protusion'">protrusion</a> of the extreme +W. of the county, in which are the Tring Reservoirs. Two of the species +confined to the district, <i>Typha angustifolia</i> and <i>Potamogeton +Friesii</i>, are water-plants which occur only in these reservoirs or in +the canals which they supply. A rare poplar, <i>Populus canescens</i>, grows +by the Wilstone reservoir<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>[Pg 17]</span>, and the man-orchis (<i>Aceras anthropophora</i>) +on terraces cut in the Chalk near Tring.</p> + +<p>4. <i>The Colne.</i>—A large district, comprising almost the whole of the +western portion of the county. <i>Diplotaxis tenuefolia</i>, <i>Silene nutans</i>, +and <i>Hieracium murorum</i> grow only on old walls in St. Albans. Colney +Heath is our only habitat for a very rare loosestrife, <i>Lythrum +hyssopyfolium</i>, and also for <i>Teesdalia nudicaulis</i>, while there is but +one other locality, a different one in each case, for four of its +plants, <i>Radiola linoides</i>, <i>Centunculus minimus</i>, <i>Cuscuta epithymum</i>, +and <i>Potamogeton acutifolius</i>. The pasque-flower (<i>Anemone pulsatilla</i>) +grows abundantly on the Chalk slopes near Aldbury. The rarer orchids of +the district are the bog-orchis (<i>Malaxis paludosa</i>), the narrow-leaved +helleborine (<i>Cephalanthera ensifolia</i>), and the butterfly orchis +(<i>Habenaria bifolia</i>).</p> + +<p>5. <i>The Brent.</i>—The smallest district, a <a name="cm2" id="cm2"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr2" +title="Original reads 'protusion'">protrusion</a> of the county in +the S. entirely on the London Clay, and chiefly interesting owing to the +presence of Totteridge Green and its ponds. In these ponds grow the +great spearwort (<i>Ranunculus lingua</i>) and the sweet-flag (<i>Acorus +calamus</i>), the former, however, not being indigenous. The star-fruit +(<i>Damasonium stellatum</i>) formerly grew on Totteridge Green, and +<i>Chenopodium glaucum</i> at Totteridge, but neither has lately been seen.</p> + +<p>6. <i>The Lea.</i>—The largest district, comprising the whole of the E. of +the county. The London rocket (<i>Sisymbrium irio</i>) occurs only in the old +towns of Hertford and Ware; the true <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>[Pg 18]</span>oxlip (<i>Primula elatior</i>) near the +head of the River Stort; a very rare broom-rape, <i>Orobanche cærulea</i>, at +Hoddesdon, where it is parasitic on the milfoil; and an almost equally +rare bedstraw, <i>Galium anglicum</i>, on an old wall of Brocket Park. A rare +trefoil, <i>Trifolium glomeratum</i>, is known only at Easneye near Ware; and +Hatfield Park is our only locality for the water-soldier (<i>Stratiotes +aloides</i>) except where it has evidently been planted. Two species, +usually of rare occurrence, <i>Polygonum dumetorum</i> and <i>Apera +spica-venta</i>, are frequent in the district.</p> + +<p>The indigenous flowering plants of Hertfordshire number 893 species, 679 +being Dicotyledons and 214 Monocotyledons. If to these be added 199 +aliens, etc., the total number of species recorded is brought up to +1,092. The flora is essentially of a southern type, the northern species +being few in number. Owing to the dry soil, xerophiles largely prevail +over hygrophiles.</p> + +<p><i>The Ferns</i> and their allies the horsetails and clubmosses are not well +represented, both the soil and the air of the county being too dry for +them. Another cause for the present scarcity of ferns is the proximity +of Hertfordshire to London, for they have been uprooted and taken there +for sale in cart-loads. We have twenty-four species of ferns and +fern-allies, but not one really rare. The principal varieties are +<i>Scolopendrium vulgare</i>, var. <i>multifidum</i>; <i>Athyrium <a name="cm3" id="cm3"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr3" +title="Original reads 'filixfœmina'">filixfæmina</a></i>, +var. <i>convexum</i>; and <i>Polypodium vulgare</i>, var. <i>serratum</i>. <i>Equisetum +silvaticum</i> is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>[Pg 19]</span>our rarest horsetail; and our only clubmoss is +<i>Lycopodium clavatum</i>.</p> + +<p><i>The Mosses</i> are much better represented than the ferns, 175 species +having been recorded. The bog-mosses are represented by six +species—<i>Sphagnum intermedium</i>, <i>cuspidatum</i>, <i>subsecundum, +acutifolium</i>, <i>squarrosum</i>, and <i>cymbifolium</i>. <i>Tetraphis pellucida</i> +occurs in Sherrard’s Park Wood, and <i>Polytrichum urnigerum</i> in Hitch +Wood. <i>Seligeria pusilla</i> has been found in an old chalk-pit in Brocket +Park, and <i>S. paucifolia</i> on chalk nodules in the Tunnel Woods near +Watford. <i>Campylopus pyriforme</i> occurs in Berry Grove Wood, Aldenham, +and <i>C. flexuosus</i> in Dawley’s Wood, Tewin.</p> + +<p>Of <i>the Liverworts</i> (<i>Hepaticæ</i>) forty-four species are known to occur; +and the Stoneworts (<i>Characeæ</i>) are represented by seven species—two of +<i>Chara</i>, two of <i>Tolypella</i>, and three of <i>Nitella</i>.</p> + +<p><i>The Algæ</i> have been pretty fully investigated, especially the +<i>Diatomaceæ</i>, of the 252 species of Algæ known to occur in the county, +156 belonging to that interesting family of microscopic plants. As an +illustration of their minute size it may be mentioned that a single drop +of water from the saucer of a flower-pot at Hertford, mounted as a +microscopic slide, was found to contain 200,000 separate frustules of +<i>Achnanthes subsessilis</i>, and it was estimated that these occupied only +one twenty-fifth part of the drop. Both species of <i>Chlamidococcus</i> (the +old genus <i>Protococcus</i>), <i>C. pluvialis</i> and <i>C. nivalis</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a>[Pg 20]</span>occur; and +the pretty <i>Volvox globator</i> has frequently been found.</p> + +<p>Of <i>the Lichens</i> much less is known, only sixty-seven species having +been recorded. The most noteworthy are <i>Calicium melanophæum</i>, found on +fir-trees in Bricket Wood; <i>Peltigera polydactyla</i>, on moss-covered +ground in Oxhey Woods, Watford; <i>Lecanora phlogina</i>, in the Tunnel +Woods, Watford; and <i>Pertusaria globulifera</i>, on trees in the same woods +and also in Bricket Wood. As woods in the vicinity of Hertford and of +Watford only have been searched for lichens, our list ought to be +largely increased by investigation in other parts of the county.</p> + +<p>Of <i>the Fungi</i> our chief knowledge is derived from lists of species +collected at Fungus Forays of the Hertfordshire Natural History Society +and from records of the Mycetozoa by Mr. James Saunders. The number of +species recorded for the county is 735, of which fifty-eight are +“myxies”. Of the Hymenomycetes, or mushroom-like fungi, some very +noteworthy finds have been made, nearly all at Forays of the county +society. They include two species new to Britain, <i>viz.</i>, <i>Agaricus +(Nolania) nigripes</i>, found in Aldenham Woods, Watford, and <i>Ag. +(Hypholoma) violacea-ater</i>, in Gorhambury Park, St. Albans (by the +present writer). Hertfordshire has also furnished the second British +records for <i>Ag. (Lepiota) gliodermus</i> (Broxbourne Woods), <i>Ag. +(Leptonia) euochrous</i> (Ashridge Woods), <i>Ag. (Psathyrella) aratus</i> +(Sherrard’s Park, Welwyn), and <i>Paxillus Alexandri</i> (Hatfield <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>[Pg 21]</span>Park), +this species having first been recorded from Hatfield Park, Essex; and +the second and third British record for <i>Agaricus (Clytocybe) Sadleri</i> +(Ashridge Park and Cassiobury Park). The very rare <i>Strombilomyces +strombilaceus</i> has been found in Grove Park, Watford, and the still +rarer <i>Peziza luteo-nitens</i> on the Chalk slopes between Aldbury and +Ashridge Park. Lastly it may be mentioned that Mr. Saunders added the +“myxie” <i>Physarum citrinum</i> to the British fungus-flora from specimens +found by him at Caddington and Welwyn.</p> + +<p><i>The Birds</i> of Hertfordshire have been carefully observed, and the +appearance of rare visitors has been duly recorded. At a lecture +delivered at St. Albans in 1902, Mr. Alan F. Crossman, F.L.S., F.Z.S., +stated that 212 species had been known to visit the county, and +mentioned, <i>inter alia</i>, that the kingfisher is more numerous in +Hertfordshire than formerly, that the heron nested in the county for the +first time in 1901, and that the appearance of the bearded titmouse had +been noticed on but three occasions. During the last forty years the +following birds, among others, have been noticed as occasional +visitants: the storm-petrel (<i>Procellaria pelagica</i>), golden oriole +(<i>Oriolus galbula</i>), whooper-swan (<i>Cygnus musicus</i>), snow-bunting +(<i>Plectrophanes nivalis</i>), greater spotted woodpecker (<i>Picus major</i>), +black tern (<i>Hydrochelidon nigra</i>), great northern diver (<i>Colymbus +glacialis</i>), herring-gull (<i>Larus argentatus</i>), cormorant +(<i>Phalacrocorax carbo</i>), tufted duck (<i>Fuligula cristata</i>), hoopoe +(<i>Upopa epops</i>), <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>[Pg 22]</span>crossbill (<i>Loxia curvirostra</i>), sheldrake (<i>Tadorna +cornuta</i>), <a name="cm4a" id="cm4a"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr4a" +title="Original reads 'Guillemot'">guillemot</a> (<i>Lornvia troile</i>), Pallas’ sandgrouse (<i>Syrrhaptes +paradoxus</i>), rock thrush (<i>Monticola saxatilis</i>), black redstart +(<i>Ruticilla titys</i>), Dartford warbler (<i>Silvia undata</i>), grasshopper +warbler (<i>Locustella <a name="cm4b" id="cm4b"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr4b" +title="Original reads 'nœvia'">nævia</a></i>), waxwing (<i>Ampelis garrulus</i>), twite +(<i>Linota flavirostris</i>), hen harrier (<i>Circus cyaneus</i>), buzzard (<i>Buteo +vulgaris</i>), redshank (<i>Totanus calidris</i>), greenshank (<i>Totanus +cunescens</i>) and the little auk (<i>Mergulus alle</i>).</p> + +<p>The lapwing is thought to be increasing in numbers; the writer +frequently observed considerable flocks during his recent rambles in the +county. Finches are perhaps as numerous in Hertfordshire as in any other +county of equal size; the large flocks of hen chaffinches that haunt the +farmyards in winter being quite a notable feature. The goldfinch, it is +to be feared, is rapidly becoming scarcer; as are also the jay, the +woodcock and other birds much more numerous a few years back. Fieldfares +and redwings visit the county in great numbers from the N. during the +winter; one morning in the winter of 1886 the writer saw many thousands +of fieldfares pass over St. Albans from the direction of Luton. The +redwing, being largely insectivorous, is often picked up dead in the +fields when the frost is unusually severe and food proportionally +difficult to obtain.</p> + +<p>The presence of many woods and small streams attracts a good proportion +of the smaller English migrants; the nightingale and the cuckoo are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>[Pg 23]</span>heard almost throughout the county. Moorhens, coots and dabchicks are +abundant; the reed-sparrow is heard only in a few districts. Titmice, +great, blue and long-tailed, are well distributed.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroV" id="IntroV"></a>V. <span class="smcap">Population</span></h3> + +<p>Comparatively little peculiar to the county is known of the early +inhabitants of Hertfordshire. They seem from the earliest times to have +been scattered over the county in many small groups, rather than to have +concentrated at a few centres. Singularly enough, this almost uniform +dispersion of population is still largely maintained, for, unlike so +many other counties, Hertfordshire has not within its borders a single +large town. The larger among them, <i>i.e.</i>, Watford, St. Albans, Hitchin, +Hertford and Bishop’s Stortford, are not collectively equal in +population to even such towns as Bolton, Halifax or Croydon. Another +feature to be noted is that, owing to the county’s proximity to London, +it is now the home of persons of many nations and tongues, and only in +the smaller villages between the railroads are there left any traits of +local character or peculiarities of idiom. It is hardly necessary to say +that this conglomeration of peoples is common to all the home counties, +though mostly so, as I venture to think, in Hertfordshire and Surrey. +The Essex peasant is still strongly differentiated from his neighbours.</p> + +<p>Grose, writing towards the end of the eighteenth century, stated that +the population <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a>[Pg 24]</span>of Hertfordshire was 95,000. They must have been well +dispersed, for he tells us that the county contained at that period 949 +villages; by the word “village,” however, he seems to mean any separate +community, including small hamlets. Some interesting figures are to be +found in Tymms’s <i>Compendium of the History of the Home Circuit</i>. He +states that in 1821 the county contained 129,714 inhabitants, comprising +26,170 families and living in 23,687 houses. Of these families no fewer +than 13,485 were engaged in agriculture. From the same source I quote +the following figures relating to the year 1821:—</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="Numbers of houses and inhabitants"> +<tr><td></td><td class="toright">Houses.</td><td class="toright"> Inhabitants.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hemel Hempstead </td><td class="toright">1,012</td><td class="toright"> 5,193</td></tr> +<tr><td>Watford </td><td class="toright"> 940</td><td class="toright"> 4,713</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hitchin </td><td class="toright"> 915</td><td class="toright"> 4,486</td></tr> +<tr><td>St. Albans </td><td class="toright"> 735</td><td class="toright"> 4,472</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cheshunt </td><td class="toright"> 847</td><td class="toright"> 4,376</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hertford </td><td class="toright"> 656</td><td class="toright"> 4,265</td></tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>In 1881 the population of the county was 203,069; in 1891 it had +increased by about one-eleventh to 220,162; in 1921 it was 333,236.</p> + +<p>In the days of William I. the whole of the possessions and estates of +Hertfordshire belonged to the King and forty-four persons who shared his +favour, amongst whom may be mentioned the Archbishop of Canterbury, the +Bishops of London, Winchester, Chester, Bayeux and Liseux, and the +Abbots of Westminster, Ely, St. Albans, Charteris and Ramsey.</p> + +<p>To go as far back as the Heptarchy, we find <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>[Pg 25]</span>the land mostly owned by +Mercians, East Saxons and by the Kings of Kent, and thus there gradually +sprang up that “Middle English” population which for so long formed a +large proportion of the inhabitants of Hertfordshire, Middlesex and +Essex. How thoroughly such persons separated into small communities and +settled down in every part of the county may be ascertained by the many +“buries” found at a little distance from the town or +village—Redbourn-bury, Ardeley-bury, Bayford-bury, Langley-bury, +Harpenden-bury, etc.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroVI" id="IntroVI"></a>VI. <span class="smcap">Communications</span></h3> + +<p>1. <i>Roads.</i>—Hertfordshire, as one of the home-counties, is crossed by +many fine roads from the N.E., E. and N.W., as they gradually converge +towards their common goal—London. Among them may be mentioned the Old +North Road, from Royston through Buntingford and Ware to Waltham Cross; +the Great North Road from Baldock through Stevenage, Welwyn and Hatfield +to Barnet; and the Dunstable Road through Market Street, Redbourn and +St. Albans, which meets the last-mentioned road at Barnet.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnnum">[1]</a> We may +contrast these roads at the present day with the rough paths infested +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>[Pg 26]</span>with robbers existing in the days when the country between Barnet and +St. Albans was little better than a continuous, tangled forest; or even +with the same roads in the days when Evelyn and Pepys frequently rode +along them—and found them exceedingly bad. The cyclist wishing to ride +northwards through Hertfordshire has comparatively stiff hills to mount +at Elstree, High Barnet, Ridge, near South Mimms, and at St. Albans. He +should also beware of the descent into Wheathampstead, of the dip +between Bushey and Watford, and of the gritty roadways in the +neighbourhood of Baldock. Most of the roads are well kept, particularly +since they have been cared for by the County Council, and the +traveller’s book at the inn usually contains fewer anathemas touching +the state of the highways than in some other counties which might be +named.</p> + +<p><i>Railways.</i>—Few counties in England are so well served with railroad +communications; the London and North Western, Midland, Great Northern +and Great Eastern running well across its face.</p> + +<p><i>The London and North Western</i> enters the county ½ mile N.W. of Pinner, +and has stations on its main route at Bushey, Watford, King’s Langley, +Boxmoor, Berkhampstead and Tring. It crosses the Bedfordshire border +near Ivinghoe. From Watford it has a branch to Rickmansworth; and to +Bricket Wood, Park Street and St. Albans; it has also a station at +Marston Gate, on its branch line to Aylesbury.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>[Pg 27]</span><i>The Midland</i> enters the county during its passage through the Elstree +tunnel and runs nearly due N., having stations at Elstree, Radlett, St. +Albans and Harpenden. It has also a branch with stations at Hemel +Hempstead and Redbourn.</p> + +<p><i>The Great Northern</i> main line crosses a small tongue of the county upon +which it has stations at Oakleigh Park and New Barnet. It then traverses +the Hadley Wood district of Middlesex, entering Hertfordshire again at +Warren Gate, and has stations at Hatfield, Welwyn, Knebworth, Stevenage +and Hitchin. From Hatfield it has three branches: (1) to Smallford and +St. Albans; (2) to Ayot, Wheathampstead and Harpenden; (3) to Cole +Green, Hertingfordbury and Hertford. At Hitchin it has a branch to +Baldock, Ashwell and Royston.</p> + +<p><i>The Great Eastern</i> enters the county at Waltham Cross and skirts the +whole of the S.E. quarter, running on Essex soil from near the Rye House +almost to Sawbridgeworth. It has stations in Hertfordshire at Waltham +Cross, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Sawbridgeworth and Bishop’s Stortford. It +enters Essex again near the last-named station. It has also important +branches, (1) from Broxbourne to Rye House, St. Margaret’s, Ware, and +Hertford; (2) from St. Margaret’s to Mardock, Widford, Hadham, Standon, +Braughing, West Mill and Buntingford.</p> + +<p>In addition, the Metropolitan Railway has an extension which crosses the +S.W. extremity <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>[Pg 28]</span>of the county, having stations at Rickmansworth and +Chorley Wood. The Great Northern Railway has a branch from Finsbury Park +to High Barnet, with a station at Totteridge.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroVII" id="IntroVII"></a>VII. <span class="smcap">Industries</span></h3> + +<p>1. <i>Agriculture.</i>—Charles Lamb used no mere haphazard expression when +he wrote of Hertfordshire as “that fine corn county”. Forty years ago +the county contained 339,187 acres under arable cultivation, of which +considerably more than half were utilised for corn; and the proportion +thus used is still much larger than might be supposed. (In 1897 it +amounted to about 125,000 acres.) At the same period there were about +60,000 acres under wheat alone; for this grain, of which a large white +variety is much cultivated, the county has long been famous. To this +circumstance the village of Wheathampstead is indebted for its name. +Barley and oats are also staple crops. The first Swede turnips ever +produced in England were grown on a farm near Berkhampstead. Watercress +is extensively cultivated, enormous quantities being sent into London +from St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, Berkhampstead, Welwyn and many other +districts. Much manure is brought to the farms from the London stables, +and by its aid large second crops of vegetables are frequently obtained. +Clover, turnips and tares <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>[Pg 29]</span>may be mentioned among other crops +prominently cultivated. Fruit is also sent to London, particularly from +the district lying between Tring, Watford and St. Albans, but none of +the orchards are large.</p> + +<p>The number of pigs reared in the county is—or was quite +recently—rather above the average (per 100 acres under cultivation) for +all England; the number of cattle rather below, and of sheep much below, +this average.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Manufactures</i> are fairly numerous.</p> + +<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>Straw Plait</i> has for over 200 years been extensively made by hand +for the Luton dealers. The wages earned by peasant girls and women in +this employment were formerly high; 100 years ago a woman, if dexterous, +might earn as much as £1 a week, but the increase in machinery and the +competition from foreign plait has almost destroyed this cottage +industry in some districts. During the last four decades several large +straw hat manufactories have been erected in St. Albans, and the trade +enlarged, although the conditions of production are altered.</p> + +<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>Malting</i> is still extensively carried on at Ware, which has been +the centre of the industry for many years; it is said, indeed, to be the +largest malting town in England. There are nearly 100 malting houses, +many of them being beside the River Lea, navigable from this town for +barges W. to Hertford and S. to London. There are extensive <i>Breweries</i> +at St. Albans, Watford, Hertford, High Barnet, Baldock, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>[Pg 30]</span>Hitchin, +Hatfield, Tring, Berkhampstead, and other places.</p> + +<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>Brick Fields</i> are worked at Watford, St. Albans, Hemel Hempstead, +Broxbourne, Bishop’s Stortford, Hitchin and elsewhere.</p> + +<p>(<i>d</i>) <i>Brushes</i> of many kinds are manufactured at St. Albans and +Berkhampstead.</p> + +<p>(<i>e</i>) <i>Hurdles</i> are made at Barkway, Croxley Green, Breachwood Green, +Chorley Wood, Albury, and at one or two other places.</p> + +<p>(<i>f</i>) <i>Iron Foundries</i> are at Hertford, Ippollitts, Royston, Colne +Valley (Watford), Hitchin and Puckeridge.</p> + +<p>(<i>g</i>) <i>Paper</i> is made at Croxley Mills, King’s Langley, and Nash Mills.</p> + +<p>(<i>h</i>) <i>Silk</i> is made at the large mill on the River Ver, St. Albans, and +at Redbourn.</p> + +<p>(<i>i</i>) <i>Photographic plates</i>, <i>paper</i>, etc., are made at Watford, Boreham +Wood and Barnet.</p> + +<p>(<i>j</i>) <i>Lavender Water</i> is made at Hitchin, from lavender grown in fields +close by.</p> + +<p><i>Gravel</i> abounds in many districts, and pits are extensively worked at +Rickmansworth, Hertford and at Heath, Wheathampstead, Watford and +Harpenden.</p> + +<p>There are <i>windmills</i> at Cromer, Albury, Goff’s Oak, Anstey, Arkley, +Much Hadham, Weston, Tring and Bushey Heath. <i>Water mills</i> are too +numerous to specify, there being several on many of the small rivers +named in Section II.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroVIII" id="IntroVIII"></a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>[Pg 31]</span>VIII. <span class="smcap">History</span></h3> + +<p>Hertfordshire was formerly a part of Mercia and of Essex. Its share in +what is usually called “History” can hardly be called great; but many +interesting details of its story are recorded in the histories of +Chauncy, Salmon, Clutterbuck, and Cussans. Among smaller works the +following will be found useful: Cobb’s <i>Berkhampstead</i>; Gibbs’ +<i>Historical Records of St. Albans</i>; Nicholson’s <i>Abbey of St. Albans</i>; +Bishop’s <i>Hitchin and Neighbourhood</i>, and <i>Bygone Hertfordshire</i> by +various writers.</p> + +<p>The story of Hertfordshire may be said to commence with the sack of the +great Roman city of <i>Verulamium</i> by the followers of Boadicea, Queen of +the <a name="cm5" id="cm5"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr5" +title="Original reads 'Icene'">Iceni</a> (<span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 61). Our knowledge of the event is largely +drawn from Tacitus, and Dion Cassius, who give revolting details of the +torture of the inhabitants by the Britons. The martyrdom of St. Alban +(<i>circa</i> <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 304) the Synod of Verulam (429), the second +destruction of that city by the Saxons towards the end of the sixth +century and the siege of Hertford by the Danes in 896, when Alfred the +Great grounded their vessels by cutting the river banks, are some of the +more prominent episodes of pre-Conquest times. William I., entering the +county from the direction of Wallingford, met the Saxon nobles in +council at Berkhampstead immediately before his coronation at +Westminster. The castles of Hertford and Berkhampstead <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>[Pg 32]</span>were captured by +the revolted barons.</p> + +<p>There was a dangerous insurrection of the peasantry in the days of +Richard II. Three important battles were fought in Hertfordshire, during +the Wars of the Roses: (1) At St. Albans on 23rd (?) May, 1455; (2) on +Bernard’s Heath, St. Albans, 17th February, 1461; (3) near Chipping +Barnet, 14th April, 1471; these battles are mentioned more fully in the +Sections on St. Albans and Barnet.</p> + +<p>The residence of the Princess Elizabeth at Ashridge Park and her +subsequent captivity at Hatfield up to the time of her accession (1558) +may be here mentioned, but the more casual visits of monarchs are +referred to as occasion requires.</p> + +<p>The county was not the scene of any considerable engagement during the +great Rebellion; but the Parliamentary troops are held responsible for +much ecclesiastical sacrilege at St. Albans, Hitchin and elsewhere, and +it was from Theobalds that Charles I. set out to meet his army in 1642. +In 1647, when a prisoner in the care of Cornet Joyce, he was taken from +Leighton Buzzard to Baldock and from thence to Royston. The march of +Cromwell from Cambridge to St. Albans towards the end of the war is +recorded rather too literally on the interior of several churches.</p> + +<p>Of importance in history was the Rye House Plot (1683), a carefully laid +but abortive scheme to murder Charles II. and James, Duke of York, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>[Pg 33]</span>on +their way to London from Newmarket. (See <a href="#RyeHouse">Rye House</a>.)</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroIX" id="IntroIX"></a>IX. <span class="smcap">Antiquities</span></h3> + +<p>The antiquities of Hertfordshire have been carefully studied and well +repay the labour that has been bestowed upon them. A few words under +several heads will suffice to show that the subject is a large one.</p> + +<p>1. <i>Prehistoric.</i>—<i>Paleolithic</i> man—in whom we are all so interested, +but of whom we know so little—must have dwelt in Hertfordshire for a +long period, a period to be measured by centuries rather than by years. +Perhaps, however, the word “dwelt” is hardly appropriate here; for +doubtless, for the most part, the rude flint-shaper and skin-clad hunter +roamed at random over this tract of land wherever necessity led him. It +is usual to speak of him as a troglodyte, or cave-dweller, but the caves +of Hertfordshire are, and probably <i>were</i> few, and his life in such a +district would therefore be more than usually nomadic. As is often the +case, we find traces of him in the river-valleys more frequently than +elsewhere, and it is in beds of clay, conjectured to be of lacustrine +origin, that we find those rudely shapen flint nodules which served him +for tools. Such implements have been found in the Valley of the Gade by +Sir John Evans, K.C.B.; in more central neighbourhoods by Mr. +Worthington G. Smith; and many axes, knives, etc., were discovered <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>[Pg 34]</span>only +a few years ago near Hitchin. Implements of the <i>Neolithic</i> Age are +naturally more numerous and form in themselves an interesting study in +the evolution of manual skill. Flint axe-heads, wonderfully polished, +have been found at Albury, Abbot’s Langley, Panshanger and Ware; chipped +flints of more fragmentary character have been found near St. Albans and +elsewhere; flint arrow-heads were discovered at Tring Grove nearly 170 +years ago. The great number of natural flints found in the county make +it very difficult to recognise these archæological treasures, many of +which must thus escape detection and be destroyed. Some details of the +discovery of Prehistoric implements are given in the Gazetteer.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Pre-Roman.</i>—The earliest inhabitants of Hertfordshire in times more +or less “historic” were of Celtic blood; these, after a settlement of +considerable duration, were driven out by Belgic invaders, of whom the +Cassii, or Cateuchlani, seem to have been one of the most powerful +tribes. The Cassii, who shared at least a part of the district with the +Trinobantes, were numerous and war-like when Cæsar invaded Britain; +their chief, Cassivellaunus, is believed to have lived near what is now +St. Albans. He was chosen as leader by the British, and offered stout +resistance to the Romans, but was driven back and his capital—wherever +it was—stormed and captured. Earth works, supposed to have been erected +by these Pre-Roman inhabitants, still remain at Hexton, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>[Pg 35]</span>Ashwell, Great +Wymondley, Tingley Wood, and elsewhere, but are rapidly disappearing in +the general obliteration of ancient landmarks. Grymes-dyke, still to be +traced on Berkhampstead Common, is the most famous; but many others are +marked in a map prepared by Sir John Evans. Some of these are hardly +more than conjectural sites; a few will be mentioned in the Gazetteer. +Bronze Celts of many kinds are in the possession of Mr. W. Ransom, +F.S.A.; some of these were found at Cumberlow Green. Relics of the +Bronze Age in the county include two bracelets of gold found at Little +Amwell; and many narrow hatchets, or palstaves, from the neighbourhood +of Hitchin.</p> + +<p>To the Late Celtic Period belong the imperfect iron sword-blade, in a +bronze sheath, discovered at Bourne End and now in the British Museum; +also the two bronze helmets, one from the neighbourhood of Hitchin, and +one from Tring. At Hitchin, too, was discovered some pottery of the same +period.</p> + +<p>3. <i>Roman.</i>—Hertfordshire formed a part of the Flavia Cæsariensis of +the Romans—the district E. of the Severn and N. of the Thames. Most +important of their stations was the municipium at Verulamium (W. of St. +Albans) of which some fragments of wall yet remain in the neighbourhood +of the River Ver and the Verulam Woods; here, too, is the site of the +only Roman theatre known in Britain (of <i>amphitheatres</i> there are many +remains). There were also stations at Cheshunt (Ceaster), at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>[Pg 36]</span>Braughing +(ad Fines), at Berkhampstead (Durocobrivis?), at Ashwell, Wilbury Hill, +etc.; there was a cemetery at Sarratt; a sepulchre at Royston. Roman +villas have been unearthed at Purwell Mill, Abbots Langley and Boxmoor. +The Roman coins found in the county would, if brought together, form an +exceedingly valuable collection. They have been found in considerable +numbers at St. Albans, Ware, Hoddesdon, Hitchin, Willian, Ashwell, +Caldecote, Boxmoor, and many other places. Small bronze coins, known as +<i>minimi</i>, have been recently found at St. Albans, and are now in the +city museum. They date from after the year 345, when the earliest +specimens of this type were struck, and are conjectured to be copies of +coins issued under Constantius II. (337-61) and Julian the Apostate +(361-3). On the obverse is the “Imperial Head”; on the reverse a soldier +striking with his spear at a man on horseback. The coins, however, are +assigned by at least one numismatist to a later date. They may have +issued from a Romano-British mint at Verulamium. The famous Watling +Street entered the county at Elstree and crossed it by way of St. Albans +and Redbourn to Dunstable (Beds); the Icknield Way ran N.W. through +Ickleford, Baldock and Royston; Akeman Street passed through Watford, +Berkhampstead and Tring; Ermine Street, entering Hertfordshire at +Waltham, passed through Ware and Braughing to Royston.</p> + +<p>4. <i>Saxon.</i>—A few fragmentary remains at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>[Pg 37]</span>Berkhampstead, Bennington, +Offley and Hitchin have been thought to mark the sites of the palaces of +Mercian kings; but genuine Saxon remains are scarcely found except, +perhaps, among the foundations of a few churches, <i>e.g.</i>, St. Michael’s +at St. Albans, Standon and Wheathampstead.</p> + +<p>Mention must however be made of the story, narrated in <i>Archæologia</i>, of +the discovery of the sepulchre of St. Amphibalus at a spot near Redbourn +called the “Hills of the Banners”. St. Alban himself appeared to a +layman in a vision and told him where the saint’s bones were to be +found,—indeed, he is said to have himself gone thither to point out the +spot. This was during the abbacy of Symon (1167-83). We learn from Roger +of Wendover that the remains of St. Amphibalus were found lying between +those of two other men; the bones of seven others were also lying close +by. Among the relics found with the bones of the saint were two large +knives, one of which was in his skull. We know that the holy relics were +deemed worthy of solemn removal to the Abbey of St. Albans; his shrine +there is mentioned in the Gazetteer.</p> + +<p>In the <i>Antiquary</i> (vol. xi.) mention is made of the supposed discovery +of an Anglo-Saxon burial ground in a field near Sandridge. Many bones +and some implements were unearthed, and pronounced by local experts to +date from Saxon times. They were buried again by some ignorant person.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>[Pg 38]</span>A bronze brooch, discovered at Boxmoor, has been assigned to “the +latest period of true Anglo-Saxon art”. A gold ornament, resembling an +armlet, was found at the village of Park Street, near St. Albans; it is +thought to date from <span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 700-1000.</p> + +<p>5. <i>Churches.</i>—These will be separately mentioned in due order, +especially St. Albans Abbey, the unique meeting ground of all Styles; +but a few sentences touching the predominant periods may be permissible +here:—</p> + +<p><i>Norman</i> work is found in many places; Anstey, Bengeo, Barley, East +Barnet, Graveley, Hemel Hempstead, Little Hormead, and Ickleford are +largely of this period, and Norman features are mingled with later work +at Abbots Langley, Baldock, Weston, Great Munden, Great Wymondley, +Knebworth, Redbourn, Sarratt, and the churches of SS. Michael and +Stephen at St. Albans. There are Norman fonts at Broxbourne, Bishop’s +Stortford (found beneath the flooring in 1869) Anstey, Buckland, +Harpenden, Great Wymondley and Standon.</p> + +<p><i>Early English</i> churches are at Ashwell, Brent Pelham, Digswell, +Furneaux Pelham, Great Munden (Norman doorway), Knebworth, Royston, +Stevenage and Wheathampstead. Some of these, <i>e.g.</i>, Digswell and +Knebworth, are pleasantly situated and others contain features of great +interest, but on the whole they can hardly boast of much architectural +beauty.</p> + +<p><i>Decorated</i> churches are rarely found without prominent transitional +features, the purest structures <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>[Pg 39]</span>dating from that period being those at +Flamstead, Hatfield, North Mimms, Standon, and Ware. Early Decorated +portions are noticeable among Norman surroundings at Hemel Hempstead, +and among Early English at Wheathampstead; Late Decorated is found with +Perpendicular at Hitchin. Standon is the only W. porch in the county. +Flamstead and Wheathampstead are the only churches in the county that +have retained their original vestries, N. of the chancel.</p> + +<p><i>Perpendicular</i> churches are fairly numerous in Hertfordshire. Almost +purely Perpendicular structures are those at Bishop’s Stortford, +Bennington, Broxbourne, Clothall, Hunsdon, King’s Langley, Sandon, St. +Peters (St. Albans), Tring and Watford. Churches later than +Perpendicular cannot be mentioned as antiquities.</p> + +<p>A characteristic feature of Hertfordshire churches—rare elsewhere—is +the narrow tapering <i>flèche</i>, or leaded spire; a feature almost wholly +absent is the apse, which is, I believe, present only at Bengeo, Great +Wymondley, and Amwell.</p> + + +<h3><a name="IntroX" id="IntroX"></a>X. <span class="smcap">Celebrated Men</span></h3> + +<p>Comparatively few really famous men have been born in Hertfordshire, but +very many have resided in the county, or have at least been associated +with it sufficiently to justify the mention of their names here.</p> + +<p>1. <i>Men of Letters.</i>—Chaucer was clerk of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>[Pg 40]</span>the works at Berkhampstead +Castle in the time of Richard II.; Matthew Paris, the chronicler, lived +and wrote in the great Benedictine monastery at St. Albans; Sir John +Maundeville, once called the “father of English prose,” was, according +to his own narrative, born at St. Albans and, if we may trust an old +inscription, was buried in the abbey;<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnnum">[2]</a> Dr. Cotton, the poet, lived and +died in the same town, where the poet Cowper lodged with him at the +“Collegium Insanorum”. Bacon lived at Gorhambury and was buried in the +neighbouring church of St. Michael. Bulwer Lytton lived and wrote at +Knebworth, where he was visited by Forster, Dickens and others. George +Chapman translated much of Homer at Hitchin, and is believed to have +been born in that town. Young, the author of the <i>Night Thoughts</i>, was +for many years Rector of Welwyn; his son was visited there by Boswell +and Dr. Johnson. Macaulay was at school at Aspenden. John Scott, the +Quaker poet, lived at Amwell; Lee, the dramatist, was born at Hatfield. +Skelton probably stayed at Ashridge just before the Dissolution of the +Monasteries; Sir Thomas More lived awhile at Gobions, North Mimms. +Cowper was born at Berkhampstead. The county has been immortalised by +Walton and Lamb in writings known to all.</p> + +<p>2. <i>Divines.</i>—Bunyan laboured and preached <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>[Pg 41]</span>much in Hitchin and its +neighbourhood; Baxter preached at Sarratt and elsewhere, and lived +awhile at Totteridge; Isaac Watts lived for many years at Theobalds near +Cheshunt; Philip Doddridge was at school at St. Albans. Fox, in his +<i>Journal</i>, mentions visiting Hitchin, Baldock and other places. +Tillotson was a curate at Cheshunt; Ken was born at Little +Berkhampstead; Nathaniel Field, a man of prodigious learning, chaplain +to James I., was born at Hemel Hempstead. William Penn, whom many +considered a divine indeed, lived with his beautiful wife at Basing +House, Rickmansworth; Godwin was an Independent minister at Ware. Ridley +and Bonner were much in the county. Fleetwood, afterwards Bishop of +Worcester, was Rector of Anstey; Cudworth was Vicar of Ashwell; Warham +was Rector of Barley; Horsley was Rector of Thorley. The two Sherlocks, +respectively Master of the Temple and Bishop of London, were Rectors of +Therfield. Lightfoot, the Great Hebraist, was Rector of Great Munden.</p> + +<p>To classify other celebrities connected with the county would require +almost as many headings as names. Henry Bessemer was born at Charlton +near Hitchin; Cardinal Wolsey lived at Delamere House, Great Wymondley; +the munificent Somers lived at North Mimms; Nicholas Breakspeare, who +became Pope Adrian IV., was born at Abbots Langley; Piers Gaveston was +much at Berkhampstead and was buried in the priory church at King’s +Langley; Sir <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>[Pg 42]</span>Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, lived at Theobalds +and is buried at Hatfield; Lords Melbourne and Palmerston lived much at +Brocket Hall, where the latter died; Sir Ralph Sadleir, statesman and +ambassador to Scotland, who is said to have rallied the English at +Pinkie, lived at Standon and is buried in the church.</p> + +<p>Many noble or illustrious families have resided in Hertfordshire. Some +of the owners of old manors are mentioned in the Gazetteer; but a few +prominent families may be here named. The Cecils have been Lords of +Hatfield since James I. gave the manor to the first Earl of Salisbury in +exchange for that at Theobalds. The Cowpers have resided at Panshanger +since the erection of their castellated mansion in the Park a century +ago by the fifth earl. The Egertons, Dukes and Earls of Bridgewater, +lived at Ashridge; one of them, Francis, third duke, is known in history +as “the father of British inland navigation,” and another was the +projector of the famous <i>Bridgewater Treatises</i>. The Capells, Earls of +Essex, have owned the beautiful estate at Cassiobury Park since the +father of the first earl obtained it by marriage during the reign of +Charles I. The Rothschild family have an estate at Tring; Lord Ebury is +the owner of Moor Park; Lord Lytton still owns the grand old house of +the great novelist at Knebworth, founded nearly 350 years ago. The Earl +of Cavan has a house at Wheathampstead; Viscount Hampden at Kimpton Hoo; +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>[Pg 43]</span>Earl Strathmore at St. Paul’s Walden Bury; the Earl of Clarenden (Lord +Lieut. of Herts) at the Grove, Leavesden; Lord Grimthorpe lived at St. +Albans. Gorhambury, near St. Albans, is the home of the Earl of Verulam. +Mgr. Robert Hugh Benson lived and wrote many novels at Hare Street +House, near Buntingford.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>[Pg 44]</span></p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a></span> There has been much dispute as to the exact trend of the +“Great North Road”. After careful inquiry I believe that the above +paragraph states the case correctly. Much misunderstanding has doubtless +arisen by confounding the “Old” with the “Great” North Road.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a></span> As most readers are aware, it is now, to say the least, +gravely questioned whether “Sir John Maundeville” was ever more than a +name.</p></div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>[Pg 45]</span></p> +<h2><a name="DESCRIPTION_OF_PLACES_IN_HERTFORDSHIRE_ARRANGED_ALPHABETICALLY" id="DESCRIPTION_OF_PLACES_IN_HERTFORDSHIRE_ARRANGED_ALPHABETICALLY"></a>DESCRIPTION OF PLACES IN HERTFORDSHIRE ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY</h2> + + +<p class="narrow"> +Abbreviations of architectural terms:—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">E.E. = Early English.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dec. = Decorated.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Perp. = Perpendicular.</span><br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="AbbotsLangley" id="AbbotsLangley"></a><span class="smcap">Abbots Langley</span> (1½ mile S.E. of King’s Langley Station) is a +village on prettily wooded high ground near the river Gade. It is famous +as the birthplace of Nicholas Breakspeare, who, having vainly +endeavoured to be admitted as a monk in the great Benedictine monastery +at St. Albans, studied at Paris and eventually became Pope Adrian IV. He +died in 1158 at Anagni; tradition states that he was choked with a fly +whilst drinking. The village probably owes its name, first, to its +length, “Langley” signifying a long land; second, to the fact that in +the days of Edward the Confessor it was given to the Abbots of St. +Albans by Egelwine the Black and <a name="cm6" id="cm6"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr6" +title="Original reads 'Wincelfied'">Wincelfled</a> his wife. An entry in +<i>Domesday</i> records that there were two mills on this manor, yielding +30s. rent yearly, and wood to feed 300 hogs. The Church of St. Lawrence +has nave, aisles and clerestory; a chancel with S. aisle, and square +embattled tower. The windows are mostly Perp., but those of the S. aisle +are Dec. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>[Pg 46]</span>Note (1) the monument to Lord Chief Justice Raymond, died +1732; (2) the brasses in nave to Thos. Cogdell and his two wives, 1607, +and to Ralph Horwode and family, 1478. Late in the reign of Henry VIII. +the vicarage was rated at £10 per annum. An inscription in the chancel, +copied in Chauncy, reads “Here lieth Robert Nevil and Elizabeth his +wife, which Robert deceased the 28th of April in the year of our Lord +God 1475. This World is but a Vanity, to Day a man, to Morrow none.” +Prince Charles held a Court at Abbots Langley during the Reign of James +I.</p> + +<p><a name="Albury" id="Albury"></a><span class="smcap">Albury</span> (3½ miles E. of Braughing Station) is a village near the +river Ash. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, dates from the fourteenth +century; it was recently restored. There was an earlier structure so far +back as the days of Stephen, in whose reign Robert de Sigillo gave the +profits of the church at <i>Eldeberei</i> to Geoffery, first Treasurer of St. +Paul’s Church, London. An interesting will, dated 4th November, 1589, +records that Marmaduke Bickerdy, Vicar of Aldebury, gave an acre of land +in the neighbourhood to provide a sum for distribution among the poor on +every Good Friday. In the chancel the mutilated effigies of a man and +woman are said to represent Sir Walter de la Lee and his wife. Sir +Walter sat in nine Parliaments in the interests of the county—at +Westminster, Northampton and Cambridge, and was Sheriff of Herts and +Essex. He died during the reign of Richard II. <i>Albury Hall</i>, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>[Pg 47]</span>close +by, is a fine old mansion, where the “Religeous, Just and Charitable” +Sir Edward Atkins, Knight, and Baron of the Exchequer, died in 1669. The +village is usually a quiet spot, with little business, but it is +pleasantly situated; the proximity of the river and some scattered +cottages and farms enhance its attractiveness.</p> + +<p><i>Albury End</i> is a small hamlet about 1 mile S.W. of Albury.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo005" name="illo005"></a> + <img src="images/illo005.jpg" + alt="THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY" + title="THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY" + height="406" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">THE PARISH CHURCH, ALDBURY</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="Aldbury" id="Aldbury"></a><span class="smcap">Aldbury</span> (1½ mile E. from Tring Station) is a village on the +Buckinghamshire border, nestled in a beautiful valley close to Ashridge +Park (<i><a href="#Ashridge">q.v.</a></i>). It is the “Clinton Magna” of <i>Bessie Costrell</i>, and the +author of that story, Mrs. Humphrey Ward, lived at <i>Stocks</i>, a few +minutes’ walk from the village. On the Tring side Aldbury is sheltered +by swelling fields and to the E. beech woods cover the hillside, which +is topped by the “Aldbury Monument,” a granite column about 100 feet +high erected to the memory of Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater, whose +labours and enterprise for the extension of canals earned for him the +well-known title “the father of inland navigation”. As a village of the +Old English type Aldbury has perhaps no equal in the county. In the +centre is the green and pond, under the shadow of an enormous elm; close +by stand the stocks and whipping-post, recently in excellent +preservation. The Church of St. John the Baptist is E.E.; it was +restored in 1867. Visitors should notice the old sundial on a pedestal +in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>[Pg 48]</span>the churchyard, and the Verney Chapel, which is separated from the +nave by a screen of stone, and contains a monument to Sir Robert +Whittingham, who was slain at the battle of Tewkesbury. The church also +contains memorials of the Hides and Harcourts, families who left several +charities to the poor of the parish. In the days of Edward the Confessor +the manor of <i><a name="cm7" id="cm7"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr7" +title="Original unclear">Aldeberie</a></i> was held by one Alwin, the king’s thane. +The ascent of the wooded slope towards the Bridgewater monument takes +the visitor through one of the most beautiful districts in the county, +and a noble prospect stretches before him as he looks back through the +beeches towards the village in the valley beneath.</p> + +<p><a name="Aldenham" id="Aldenham"></a><span class="smcap">Aldenham</span> (2 miles S.W. from Radlett Station M.R.) is a village +pleasantly situated near the river Colne, reached by way of Berry Grove +at the W. end of the village. The churchyard is locally famous for the +tombs of a man and woman named Hutchinson, which, singularly enough, +have been riven apart and almost destroyed by three sycamore trees about +a century old. The Church of St. John the Baptist is largely Perp. with +earlier portions, and is worth a visit, if only for the oaken nave-roof, +believed to date from about 1480, and for the font of Purbeck marble, +probably 750 years old. An object of greater interest in some eyes is +the fine parish chest, formed from one massive piece of oak nearly ten +feet in length, and furnished with iron clamps and hinges of great size; +there are few finer old parish chests in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>[Pg 49]</span>England. Note also (1) the +triple sedilia in chancel; (2) the many brasses dating from 1450, +several of which are to the Cary family; (3) two palimpsest brasses in +the vestry, one of which bears a portion of a mutilated inscription to +one Long, an alderman of London, who died in 1536. The church was +restored in 1882 by Sir A. W. Blomfield, F.S.A. <i>Aldenham House</i>, +property of Lord Aldenham, dates from the days of Charles II., and +stands in a park of about 300 acres.</p> + +<p><i>Aldenham Abbey</i>, once known as Wall Hall, stands close to the parish +church; it is about a century old, and belongs to the Stuart family.</p> + +<p><i>Aldwick Farm</i> is 1 mile N.E. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>Allen’s Green</i>, a hamlet 2 miles N.W. from Sawbridgeworth, contains +little of interest.</p> + +<p><i>Almshoebury</i> (1½ mile W. of Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is about fifteen +minutes’ walk from the ruins of <i>Minsden Chapel</i> (<i><a href="#Minsden">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Amwell" id="Amwell"></a><span class="smcap">Amwell</span> is a tiny hamlet 1 mile S.W. of Wheathampstead Station, +G.N.R.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Amwell, Great</span>, a parish and village 1½ mile S.E. of Ware +Station, G.E.R., is very prettily situated near the New River, and is +known by name to many who have never visited the neighbourhood, for the +village is frequently mentioned in the essays and letters of Charles +Lamb. The church stands on a wooded slope; near by are the village +stocks, the tiny island upon which stands a monument to Sir Hugh +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>[Pg 50]</span>Myddelton, the projector of the New River, and the stone bearing some +lines written by John Scott, the Quaker. The grotto constructed by the +poet may still be seen near the railway station at Ware. The church is +an architectural conglomeration, with several stained windows, one of +which was contributed by the children of the parish as an Easter +offering nearly seventy years ago. The structure was restored in 1866. +There is a piscina in the chancel, and one in the S. wall of the nave; +there are also two hagioscopes. “The chancel arch,” writes Canon Benham, +“seems to me Anglo-Saxon, and the chancel is a most curious apse.” +Thomas Warner, a friend of Shakespeare, and Isaac Reed, a Shakespearian +commentator, were both buried here.</p> + +<p><i>Amwell End</i>, once at the N.W. extremity of the parish of Great Amwell, +is now a part of Ware (<i><a href="#Ware">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="LittleAmwell" id="LittleAmwell"></a><i>Amwell, Little</i> (about 1½ mile S.W. from Great Amwell), was formerly a +liberty in the parish of All Saints, Hertford; it has formed a separate +civil and ecclesiastical parish since 1864. The Church of Holy Trinity +is E.E. in style; it was erected in 1863. The district is now usually +called Hertford Heath. An interesting, pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by +walking from Hertford to Little Amwell, Great Amwell, and thence to +Ware, or <i>vice versa</i>.</p> + +<p><a name="Anstey" id="Anstey"></a><span class="smcap">Anstey</span> (about 4½ miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) +has a cruciform church of mixed styles: the nave is Dec., the transepts +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>[Pg 51]</span>E.E., the S. porch Perp. The tower rests upon four Norman arches; the +font also is Norman. The church was restored in 1871; many features of +architectural interest being wisely retained. The recumbent effigy in +the recess in S. transept is thought to be that of Richard de Anestie, +who founded the church in the fourteenth century. We learn from +<i>Domesday Book</i> that at the time of the Great Survey there was “pannage” +(<i>i.e.</i> acorn woods) at <i>Anestie</i> sufficient to feed fifty hogs, and +that the manor was worth fourteen pounds a year. There was once a castle +here, built soon after the Conquest, the site of which is supposed to be +marked by the remains of a moat still to be traced in the grounds of +<i>Anstey Hall</i>. The churchyard is entered by a covered lich-gate.</p> + +<p><i>Appleby Street</i> is a hamlet 3 miles N.W. from Cheshunt Station, S.E.R., +and about 2 miles N.W. from the village.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Apsley End</span> (about 1½ mile S. from Hemel Hempstead Station, +M.R., and 1¼ mile S.E. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is an +ecclesiastical parish near the river Gade. The church, dedicated to St. +Mary, was built in E. Dec. style in 1871, and is well furnished and +decorated. One of the prettiest prospects in the neighbourhood is that +from Abbot’s Hill, a fine private residence, flanked by woods. The Gade +and Bulbourne Rivers unite, a little N.W. from the village, at a place +called <i>Two Waters</i> (<i><a href="#TwoWaters">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Archer’s Green</i> is on the river Maran, about ½ a mile S.E. from Tewin +Church and 1¾ mile <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a>[Pg 52]</span>N.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It adjoins +<i>Panshanger Park</i> (<i><a href="#PanshangerPark">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Ardeley" id="Ardeley"></a><span class="smcap">Ardeley</span>, otherwise Yardley (6 miles S.W. from Buntingford +Station, G.E.R.), is a village and parish in a purely agricultural +district. It is famous through its connection with the Chauncy family, +who resided at Ardeley Bury for many generations; one of them, Sir Henry +Chauncy, was the author of a well-known history of Hertfordshire. The +family monument is outside of the church of St. Lawrence, some existing +portions of which date from the thirteenth century. The roofs of nave +and aisles are noticeable for the angels which they bear, of Tudor +character; visitors should observe, too, the early window in the +restored chancel. <i>Ardeley Bury</i>, in the days of Sir Henry Chauncy, was +an Elizabethan manor-house dating from about the year 1580, surrounded +by a moat; it was almost entirely rebuilt of brick in 1815-20, when it +became a castellated, imposing mansion. The manor of <i>Erdeley</i> was owned +by a succession of Saxon kings until Athelstan bestowed it upon the +church of St. Paul, London, as recorded in Dugdale’s <i>Monasticon +Anglicanum</i>; it was of the Dean and Chapter that the Chauncys rented +their estate. The river Beane rises near here. A stroll around Ardeley +and Ardeley Bury leads the visitor into some of the quietest spots to be +found in the county. The windmill on the hill above Cromer, near by, is +useful as a landmark when threading the many winding lanes in the +neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>[Pg 53]</span><a name="Arkley" id="Arkley"></a><span class="smcap">Arkley</span> (1 mile W. from High Barnet) consists chiefly of a few +small houses at a spot once called Barnet Common. The view is extensive +in every direction, the village (strictly speaking the chapelry) lying +on high ground. The chapel of St. Peter was erected in 1840, the style +being a variety of Low Gothic; a chancel (E.E.) was added in 1898, and +has a good groined roof.</p> + +<p><a name="Ash" id="Ash"></a><span class="smcap">Ash</span>, river; see Introduction, <a href="#IntroVI">Section VI</a>.</p> + +<p><i>Ashbrook</i> consists of a few cottages and a beer-shop, 1 mile N.E. from +St. Ippollit’s village, and midway between Hitchin and Stevenage +Stations, G.N.R.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo006" name="illo006"></a> + <img src="images/illo006.jpg" + alt="ASHRIDGE HOUSE" + title="ASHRIDGE HOUSE" + height="403" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">ASHRIDGE HOUSE</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="Ashridge" id="Ashridge"></a><span class="smcap">Ashridge</span> is in a beautifully undulating district, immediately +N. of Berkhampstead Common, 1 mile E. from Aldbury Church and about 2 +miles E. from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R. The present house, the seat of +Earl Brownlow, stands in a park of about 1,000 acres, well known for the +deer which are kept there; it was built by the first Earl of +Bridgewater, or rather by his architect, Wyatt, in 1808-14. It is a huge +structure, its greatest width being 1,000 feet; conspicuous portions are +the turreted centre, some good arched doorways and the large Gothic +porch. The site was formerly occupied by the palace of Edmund +Crouchback, Earl of Cornwall, and by the monastery which he built, +adjoining the palace, for the monks of the Order of Bonhommes, an Order +which he himself brought to this country from France. The earl died +here, but his bones were subsequently removed to Hailes Abbey in +Gloucestershire. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>[Pg 54]</span>house contains some fine pictures, including, in +addition to works by modern masters, Rubens’ “Death of Hippolytus,” +Luini’s “Holy Family” and Titian’s “Three Cæsars”. In the chapel is a +fine brass to John Swynstede, Prebendary of Lincoln, 1395. It was +brought here from Edlesborough Church.</p> + +<p><a name="Ashwell" id="Ashwell"></a><span class="smcap">Ashwell</span> is a village of considerable size on the Cambridgeshire +border. The village is 2½ miles N.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The +parish is very ancient, and is believed to have been the site of a +British settlement and of a Roman station. The former theory is +considered proved by the existing entrenchments, S.W. from the village, +called Arbury Banks; the latter theory is supported by the fact that +very many Roman relics, especially coins, have been discovered in the +neighbourhood. That it was formerly a place of importance has been +mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroV" >Section V.</a>); it was a town in Norman +times, and held four fairs each year. The Rhee, a tributary of the Cam, +rises in this village, at a spot surrounded by ash trees, and to this +fact the parish is thought to owe its name. When Sir H. Rider Haggard +was at Ashwell recently he was unable to say much for its agricultural +prosperity and outlook; but in Chauncy’s day the district produced “all +sorts of excellent Grain, especially Barley, which has greatly +encouraged the trade of Malting in this Borrough”. The same writer +mentions the stone quarry, from which he tells as that several +neighbouring churches had been <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>[Pg 55]</span>built or repaired. The Church of St. +Mary the Virgin is mostly E.E. and is conspicuous for its spire-topped +western tower, 176 feet high, being equal to the length of the church. +Note (1) the large ambry in the S. aisle, once the lady-chapel, where is +also a fragmentary reredos; (2) the curious inscriptions on the inner +side of the tower walls, mostly undecipherable, one of which refers to +the plague that attacked the town in the fourteenth century; (3) the +really fine oaken pulpit, dating from the year 1627. There was formerly +a small monastic house in the town, a cell to Westminster Abbey. From +the village it is an open, breezy walk N. to Ashwell Common or S.E. to +Ashwell Field, between the village and the station.</p> + +<p><a name="Aspenden" id="Aspenden"></a><span class="smcap">Aspenden</span> (1 mile S.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) may be +reached from the Old North Road by turning to the left before entering +Buntingford. It is a small, quiet, unimportant village; but much of it +is picturesque and interesting. Readers will remember that Macaulay was +at school here, and that it was the birthplace of Seth Ward, +mathematician and bishop, a contemporary and antagonist of Thomas +Hobbes. The church is a flint structure,—a conglomeration of many +styles. Notable features are the Easter sepulchre in the N. wall of +chancel, the Norman window close to it, the piscina, ambry and credence +table, discovered during the restoration of the church by Sir A. W. +Blomfield in 1873. There are also memorial windows to members of the +Lushington family, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>[Pg 56]</span>and an altar tomb, under a canopy of marble, to “Sir +Robert Clyfford” (d. 1508), who built the church porch in 1500, and to +his wife Elizabeth. The tomb bears brass effigies of these worthies, +which were once in the Church of St. Michael, Cornhill, but were brought +to Aspenden at the time of the fire of London. The aisle (S.) was built +by Sir Ralph Jocelyn in 1478. This Sir Ralph was lord of the manor; he +is remembered in history for his sally against Thomas Nevill, when that +adventurer attempted to rescue Henry VI. from the Tower. He was twice +Lord Mayor of London (1464 and 1476). He died in 1478 and was buried at +Sawbridgeworth.</p> + +<p><a name="Aston" id="Aston"></a><span class="smcap">Aston</span> (2¼ miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has an +ancient church restored in 1883. There is E.E. work in parts of nave and +chancel, but other portions are largely Perp., especially the tower, +which is embattled. The alabaster reredos and several memorial windows +are worth notice; nor should visitors overlook the brass at the foot of +the chancel steps to one John Kent, his wife and ten children. This +worthy died in 1592; he was a servant of Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth. +The village is scattered upon a hill a little W. from the river Beane, +and dates from Saxon times. The manor was once owned by three men under +the protection of Archbishop Stigand; afterwards by the Abbot of +Reading. It fell to the Crown at the Dissolution, like so many other +properties.</p> + +<p><i>Aston Bury</i> is a fine manor house of red <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>[Pg 57]</span>brick, about ¾ mile S. from +the village, formerly the property of the Boteler family. The prospect +from the N. windows is a noble one, the district being varied and +undulating.</p> + +<p><i>Aston End</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Aston, may be reached from +Stevenage Station, G.N.R., about 2½ miles. There is little here of +interest, but the neighbourhood is very pleasant and largely +agricultural.</p> + +<p><i>Astrope Hamlet</i> (½ mile E. from Puttenham) is midway between the +village of Long Marston and the Aylesbury Canal. It is close to the +Bucks border.</p> + +<p><i>Astwick Farm</i> is 2 miles N.W. from Hatfield Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Attimore Hall</i> is 1½ mile S.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Aubrey Camp</i> (¾ mile S.W. from Redbourn) is conjectured to be the site +of an early British encampment.</p> + +<p><i>Austage End</i> lies in the parish of King’s Walden, in a purely +agricultural district.</p> + +<p><i>Ayot Green</i> is about ½ mile S.E. from and in the parish of Ayot St. +Peter’s (<i><a href="#AyotStP">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Ayot St. Lawrence</span> (2½ miles N.E. from Wheathampstead Station +and about the same distance N.W. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) has a new +and an old church. The former is in Ayot Park, and was designed by +Revett in a classical style. Note (1) the <i>Eastern</i> portico, with +colonnade on either side; (2) the memorial to Sir Lionel Lyde, Bart. (d. +1791), and to the architect of the church (d. 1804). The earlier +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>[Pg 58]</span>structure, still in ruins near the middle of the village, was Dec. of +an early period, with several singular features; the tower, however, was +Perp. “The Windows ... have been adorn’d with curious Pictures, in +stained and painted Glass, beyond many other Churches.” The village has +at different times been styled Eye, Aiot, Great Aiot, and Ayot St. +Lawrence, and was a parcel of the property of Harold Godwin. <i>Ayot +House</i>, standing in a beautiful park of 200 acres, was once the property +and residence of Sir William Parr, brother to Catherine Parr, Queen of +Henry VIII. A room in an older building in the rear of the present +mansion was once, according to local tradition, the prison of Catherine +Parr. There are shoes at Ayot House which belonged to Anne Boleyn and a +hat of Henry VIII.</p> + +<p><a name="AyotStP" id="AyotStP"></a><span class="smcap">Ayot St. Peter’s</span> (¼ mile N. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) lies in +a pretty district watered by the rivers Maran and Lea. The village is +small, but has a commodious Parish Room, containing a small library. +There was a mill here in the time of the Great Survey, the rent of which +was three shillings and 200 eels from the mill-pool per annum. A church, +bearing “a short spire erected upon the tower,” stood on the hill-top in +Chauncy’s day; in 1751 an octagonal structure of red brick was built by +the rector (Dr. Freeman) some distance from the village. This church was +demolished in 1862 and a new one built upon its site; in 1874 this was +in turn destroyed by lightning, and in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>[Pg 59]</span>1875 the present church of St. +Peter, E.E. in style, was erected much nearer to the village. It +contains a very fine pulpit, carved by Miss Bonham, of Norwood, upon +which the figures of SS. Alban and Helen are conspicuous among others. +There are several memorial windows, tastefully designed, one of which, +to the memory of Mrs. I. A. Robinson, was designed by the architect (J. +P. Seddon). A delightful stroll may be taken from the village, westwards +to Wheathampstead or Lamer Park, or northwards to Codicote or Kimpton. +Nightingales are plentiful in the neighbourhood; the numerous thickets, +dense and secluded, affording excellent shelter to this shy songster.</p> + +<p><i>Baas Hill</i> is ¾ mile W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><i>Babb’s Green</i> (nearly midway between Mardock and Widford Station, +G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Baker’s Grove</i> is 1½ miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo007" name="illo007"></a> + <img src="images/illo007.jpg" + alt="OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK" + title="OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK" + height="380" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">OLD COTTAGE, BALDOCK</p> +</div> + +<p>BALDOCK, a small town in the northern extremity of the county, lies +between the chalk hills at the junction of the Great North Road and the +Roman Icknield Way. The malting industry is still busily pursued, +although the town is not so exclusively devoted to it as formerly. Very +fine barley was grown in the district before the reign of Elizabeth, and +the horse fairs, of which there are several annually, are well attended. +The township was founded by the Knights Templars, in whose time there +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a>[Pg 60]</span>stood a Lazar-house a little eastwards from the town. The church, +dating from the fourteenth century, is large, and of considerable +architectural interest. The chancel and adjoining chapels are Perp. and +contain sedilia and piscinæ; the nave has eight bays and a lofty +clerestory. The rood-screen is co-extensive with the width of the entire +church; the octagonal font is of great antiquity (probably not less than +700 years); there are several brasses, two of which are of the early +part of the fifteenth century. Note also (1) the defaced slab, with +Lombardic inscription to Reynaud de Argenthem, (2) the piscina-like +recess in the N. chapel, (3) the Dec. pillars and arches of nave, (4) +the fine old chest near rood-screen (N. chapel). Baldock has been the +recipient of many bequests; existing charities are in the name of Roe, +Wynne, Pryor, Cooch, Clarkson, Smith, Parker, and a few others, the +whole aggregating a considerable annual sum. The Wynne Almshouses are in +the spacious High Street, where are also the fine town hall and fire +station, erected in 1896-7. Some side streets between the church and +station are noticeable for the variety of cottage architecture which +they display.</p> + +<p><a name="Barkway" id="Barkway"></a><span class="smcap">Barkway</span> (4 miles S.E. from Royston station, G.N.R.) was a +village of some importance in the old coaching days, for it is on the +main road from Ware to Cambridge. It was partly burnt in 1592. There are +many quaint houses in the neighbourhood, and one or two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>[Pg 61]</span>inns seem to +still retain something of the atmosphere of the old régime. Near the +village, at a spot called Rokey Wood, a small bronze statue of Mars was +discovered some years ago. It is of Roman workmanship and is now in the +British Museum. Cyclists riding northwards or eastwards from Barkway +will find many hills to test their powers; but the air is exceptionally +good and the district decidedly worth visiting. The church (flint, with +stone quoins) is Perp. with embattled and pinnacled western tower; it +was restored in 1861. Several memorials are worth noticing: (1) marble +sarcophagus, with bust by Rysbrach, to Admiral Sir John Jennings (d. +1743); (2) brass on N. wall, found in the flooring during restoration, +to Robert Poynard (d. 1561), his wives Bridget and Joan, and his four +daughters; (3) monuments to Chester and Clinton families in chancel. The +once annual Pedlars’ Fair has been discontinued; as has also the Tuesday +market, which dated from the days of Henry III. In Saxon times the +village was called Bergwant, <i>i.e.</i>, the way over the hill.</p> + +<p><a name="Barley" id="Barley"></a><span class="smcap">Barley</span>, a village on the Essex border, is 2 miles N.E. from +Barkway, and lies on the same high road. The Church of St. Margaret was +restored in 1872, in fourteenth century Gothic, but the tower, which is +Norman, still stands. During the restoration some curious jars, of +ancient make, were found in the chancel walls, but were broken in the +efforts to dislodge them. There is a brass to Andrew Willet, D.D., +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>[Pg 62]</span>rector of the parish and author of <i>Synopsis Papismi</i> (d. 1621).</p> + +<p>Some interesting data for a book on the antiquities of Barley are +preserved in the pre-Reformation “Parish Hutch”. I may mention the +“towne house ... tyme out of mynde used and employed for the keeping of +maides’ marriages,” and the “Playstoe” or “common playinge place for the +younge people and other inhabitants of the said towne”. This “towne +house” may still be seen near the church.</p> + +<p><i>Barleycroft End</i> is S.E. from Furneaux Pelham (<i><a href="#FurnPelham">q.v.</a></i>). It almost +adjoins that village.</p> + +<p>BARNET, EAST (½ mile from Oakleigh Park Station, G.N.R.) is surrounded +by Middlesex except to the N.W. where it adjoins New Barnet. The old +village is situated at the meeting of the roads from High Barnet, +Southgate and Enfield. The Church of St. Mary the Virgin is very +interesting; it stands on the hill-top, at a sharp bend in the road, +about ½ mile S. from the village. It is said to have been founded about +the year 1100 by an abbot of St. Albans; if this date is approximately +correct this abbot must have been Richard d’Aubeny or de Albini, who +ruled the great monastery from 1097 to 1119, and in whose day the whole +manor (including Chipping or High Barnet) belonged to the Abbey of St. +Albans. The structure is Early Norman, with a western tower of brick, +through the lower portion of which the church is entered. The N. wall is +probably the most ancient church <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>[Pg 63]</span>wall in this part of the county. There +is a lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. A son of Bishop +Burnet, the historian, was once rector here, and is buried in the +church. Tradition states that Thomson the poet was tutor to the son of +Lord Binning when that nobleman lived at the old Manor House, the site +of which is now a part of the rectory garden. Near the church, too, +stood once a house in which Lady Arabella Stuart was confined. <i>Belmont +House</i> (C. A. Hanbury, Esq., D.L., J.P.) marks the site where stood +Mount Pleasant, once the property of the Belted Will Howard, Warden of +the Western Marches, referred to in the “Lay of the Last Minstrel”. +<i>Little Grove</i>, a house on Cat Hill (Mrs. Stern), stands where stood +formerly the house of the widow of Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart., +Ambassador to Spain in the reign of Charles I. The whole neighbourhood +is varied and undulating; the eastern extremity of the parish touched +the confines of Enfield Chace until late in the eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>BARNET, HIGH (formerly “Chipping Barnet” from the market granted by +Henry II. to the Abbots of St. Albans, which was held every Monday), +stands on the hill-top about 11 miles N.W. from London, and 9 miles S.E. +from St. Albans. As stated above, the manor belonged to the Abbots of +St. Albans, and Chauncy tells a story in this connection which is worth +repeating: “Anno 18, Edw. I., the Abbot of St. Albans (Roger de Norton, +24th <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>[Pg 64]</span>Abbot) impleaded several Persons for prostrating his Ditch and +burning his Hedges and Fences in the Night at <i>Bernet</i>; Richard +Tykering, one of the Defendants, said, that because the Abbot enclosed +his Pasture with Hedge and Ditch, so that he and the Tenants there, +could not have their common, as their Ancestors were wont to have, they +did lay open the same. The Abbot answered that they ought not to have +Common there; but ’twas found by the Jury that the Tenants ought to have +Common; and Judgment was given against the said Richard Tickering only +for that he burnt the Hedge.” Other squabbles between abbot and peasant +are referred to in this book, in the section on St. Albans. The Parish +Church of St. John the Baptist stands at the junction of the roads from +London, Enfield and St. Albans. It has known many changes. A church +stood upon the spot so long ago as <i>circa</i> 1250, to which a detached +tower was added about a century later. The body of this structure was +almost wholly replaced by a new building, reaching to and including the +tower, near the end of the abbacy of John de la Moote (1396-1401). The +present church is the result of the restoration and enlargement under +the direction of Mr. W. Butterfield, in 1875; it is of flint and worked +stone, partly Dec. and partly Perp. The old tower was lowered +sufficiently to form a portion of the nave and a new embattled tower was +built, now a conspicuous landmark for many miles round. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>[Pg 65]</span>present N. +aisle is entirely new. The nave is clerestoried, with eight bays; most +of the windows are of stained glass. The Ravenscroft mortuary chapel, +adjoining the S. transept, contains many monuments, the most conspicuous +being the altar-tomb and recumbent effigy in marble to Thomas +Ravenscroft (d. 1630), which was formerly in the chancel. Other +memorials are to James Ravenscroft (d. 1680) who founded and endowed the +almshouses in Wood Street near by, called <i>Jesus’ Hospital</i>, and to John +Ravenscroft (d. 1681). Note (1) the beautifully carved font screen, +pinnacled and crocketted; (2) the pulpit, adorned with carved figures of +men famous in English Church history; (3) the four ancient ledgers of +stone, two in the chapel and two in the tower-basement, all inscribed to +members of the Ravenscroft family. The church was formerly a +chapel-of-ease to that at East Barnet. A Roman Catholic church, +dedicated to SS. Mary the Immaculate and Gregory the Great, stands in +Union Street: it was built in 1850.</p> + +<p>On Barnet Common there was formerly a medicinal spring known widely as +“Barnet Wells”; its chalybeate waters are referred to in Pepys’ <i>Diary</i>, +and more fully praised in <i>The Perfect Diurnall</i> (1652) and <i>The Barnet +Well Water</i> (1800). These waters were in such repute that one John Owen, +an alderman of London, provided £1 to be spent yearly in keeping the +well in fit condition. Barnet Fair, which is held annually early in +September, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>[Pg 66]</span>is attended by cattle dealers from all parts of England and +Scotland, and by showmen and adventurers of all kinds. It is certainly +one of the most famous horse fairs in the country. The ordinary cattle +market is held each Wednesday.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Battle of Barnet</span>.—Of this engagement, so familiar by name, +very little is known accurately. Early in the spring of 1471, Edward +IV., assisted in his schemes by the Duke of Burgundy, quitted Flanders, +whither he had fled when the Earl of Warwick landed in the S. of England +with reinforcements from Louis XI.; touched, after a difficult passage, +at Cromer, where he heard of the resistance organised by Warwick, and +finally landed at Ravenspurgh on the Humber. Having been joined by +further followers at Nottingham he entered London on Holy Thursday, the +Lancastrians offering little resistance. Warwick collected his forces, +and the two armies met on Easter Sunday on Gladmore Common or Gledsmuir +Heath, to the N.W. of what is now Hadley Wood. The engagement was +desperately contested for five or six hours, with such varying success +that some accounts relate how messengers rode to London during the day +with the news that Edward was losing the battle. This, as it proved, was +not the case. Chauncy repeats the old tradition that a fog gathered over +the battle-field, that the Lancastrians slew one another in the mist and +confusion, and that this led to the death of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>[Pg 67]</span>Warwick. It is supposed +that the “King Maker” fell close to the spot now marked by Hadley High +Stone. This obelisk was erected a little distance off in 1740; but was +removed nearer to what is now thought the right position. Montacute, +brother to Warwick, was slain at the same spot.</p> + +<p>BARNET, NEW, is a residential extension of High and East Barnet, being +situated between the two. Indeed, the whole of “Barnet” is now almost +merged into one; there being houses or shops almost from Hadley High +Stone to a little S. from Cat Hill. The Station Road is a wide pleasant +thoroughfare stretching from New Barnet Station, G.N.R., to the main +road from London to High Barnet. The whole district is excellent ground +for the student of modern domestic architecture, the examples of diverse +schools and styles being endless. The stretch of valley between the +railway and High Barnet, now largely built upon, is a new civil parish +called Barnet Vale. On a gentle slope in the centre, off Potter’s Road, +stands the new Church of St. Mark, in which services have been held for +twenty-four years, but which is still incomplete. <i>Lyonsdown</i>, an +ecclesiastical district founded in 1869, is scattered over high ground +S.W. from the station; it is almost wholly comprised of detached +residences and is considered exceedingly healthy. There is here a good +view, overlooking the stretch of hill and dale towards Cockfosters, New +Southgate, and the Alexandra Palace. The Church of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a>[Pg 68]</span>Holy Trinity, +erected in 1864, is Dec. and contains fine lancet windows to W. C. M. +Plowden, killed in Abyssinia. There are N. and S. porches, good of their +kind, and the apsidal chancel is well designed.</p> + +<p><i>Barwick Ford</i> is on the river Rib, about 2½ miles N.W. from Hadham and +3 miles S.W. from Standon Stations, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><i>Bassett’s Green</i> (1 mile S.E. from Walkern Church) is a small hamlet +between Walkern Hall and Walkern Bury. There is no railway station +nearer than 5 miles, Buntingford, G.E.R., and Stevenage, G.N.R., being +each about that distance.</p> + +<p><i>Batchworth</i> is a hamlet close to Rickmansworth Station, L.&N.W.R., at +the N.W. extremity of Moor Park (<i><a href="#MoorParkRick">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Batchworth Heath</i>, 1½ mile S.E. from Rickmansworth, is on the Middlesex +border.</p> + +<p><i>Batlers Green</i> (¾ mile from Radlett Church, and 1 mile S.W. from the +station, M.R.) is in a pretty district, but contains little more than a +few scattered cottages and farms.</p> + +<p><a name="Bayford" id="Bayford"></a><span class="smcap">Bayford</span> (3 miles S.W. from Hertford) is a parish and village on +rising ground, near the river Lea. It has a cruciform church, E.E. in +design, with facings of Kentish rag-stone, erected by W. R. Baker, Esq., +in 1870-1. In the chancel are seven fine lancet windows of stained +glass. Note also (1) altar tomb and marble effigy to Sir George Knighton +(d. 1612); (2) two palimpsest brasses, one bearing a figure in +half-armour and the other a figure in plate-armour <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>[Pg 69]</span>and ring-mail skirt, +of which the age is conjectural; (3) the fine lich-gate. In the +churchyard lies William Yarrell, the great ornithologist (d. at +Yarmouth, 1856).</p> + +<p><a name="Bayfordbury" id="Bayfordbury"></a><span class="smcap">Bayfordbury</span> stands in a beautiful park, famous for its fine +cedars and pines, a little N. from the village. It is the seat of the +lord of the manor, H. W. Clinton-Baker, Esq., J.P. The house was +originally erected by an ancestor of the present owner, about 1760. Here +are the portraits of most of the members of the Kit Cat Club, painted by +Sir Godfrey Kneller; the MS. of the first book of <i>Paradise Lost</i>, and a +collection of letters of great literary interest, were recently sold to +America.</p> + +<p><i>Bedmond</i>, or <i>Bedmont</i>, together with Sheppeys, forms a large hamlet 1 +mile N. from the village of Abbots Langley, and nearly 2 miles N.E. from +King’s Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>Bedwell Plash</i> is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Stevenage.</p> + +<p><i>Beeson’s End</i> is pleasantly situated near the S. extremity of Harpenden +Common, and about 1¾ mile nearly due E. from Redbourn Station, M.R.</p> + +<p><i>Bell Bar</i>, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is near Brookman’s +Park, and about 2½ miles N. from Potter’s Bar Station, G.N.R. +(Middlesex).</p> + +<p><i>Bendish</i> lies on high ground, 2½ miles S.W. from St. Paul’s Walden +(<i><a href="#StPaulsWalden">q.v.</a></i>). The nearest station is at Luton Hoo (Beds) about 4 miles S.W.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70"></a>[Pg 70]</span><a name="Bengeo" id="Bengeo"></a><span class="smcap">Bengeo</span> (¾ mile N. from Hertford) is a village between the +rivers Beane and Rib; Ware Park is close by (N.E.). It is now in the +borough of Hertford. The old church dedicated to St. Leonard, is Early +Norman; there are very few churches of older foundation in +Hertfordshire. It was restored at several times between 1884 and 1893. +The bell in the wooden cote bears date 1636; a small Norman arch divides +the nave from the chancel; there are lancets and a Perp. window in the +apse. The monuments are mostly to local gentry. Eric, seventh Baron +Reay, is buried in the tiny churchyard. The new church, erected on the +hillside in 1855, is of Kentish rag. There are terra-cotta panels by +Tinworth in the reredos. The walk from Bengeo to Hertford, past the +sandy warren-hills, so beautifully clad with fir, larch, etc., with the +Lea winding through the low meadows on the left, is one of the finest in +the county.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bengeo</span> (Rural) was formerly a part of the same parish as the +above. Near by, at Chapmore End, is the Hertford County Reformatory for +boys.</p> + +<p><i>Bennett’s End</i> is the name of two small hamlets, one near Leverstock +Green (<i><a href="#Leverstock">q.v.</a></i>) and the other near Hemel Hempstead (<i><a href="#HemelHempstead">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Bennington" id="Bennington"></a><span class="smcap">Bennington</span> (4½ miles N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) was +once the residence of Mercian kings. The village and neighbourhood are +picturesque; the roads from Walkern, Hertford and Knebworth meet where +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71"></a>[Pg 71]</span>a tiny triangular green is shaded by fine elms. The river Beane is 1 +mile to the W. The church is at the S. end of the village; it dates from +the fourteenth century. The nave is wide, with clerestory; the narrow +chancel has a chapel on the N. side. The tower is embattled, and +contains a ring of eight bells. There are triple sedilia, and stalls of +carved oak in the chancel; what was <i>once</i> a holy water basin is in the +porch. Note also (1) the oaken rood-screen, surmounted by a large cross; +(2) the memorial to the Cæsar family (1622-61); (3) the (supposed) tomb +of Sir John de Benstede (1432), a baron who sat in Parliament in the +time of Edward II., as we learn from Dugdale’s <i>Monasticon</i>; (4) Carved +oak reredos. Near the churchyard a large house of red brick stands on +the site of the castle of the Benstedes, in ruins when Chauncy wrote two +centuries back. Bertulf, King of the Mercians, held a council here in +850. <i>Bennington Park</i> (1¼ mile E.) is one of three deer parks in +Hertfordshire which figured in <i>Domesday Book</i>.</p> + +<p>BERKHAMPSTEAD (Great) an interesting town in the W. of the county, is +situated on the little river Bulbourne, and is chiefly famous as the +birthplace of William Cowper, who was born in the rectory on 26th +November, 1731. The Grammar School was founded by Dr. John Incent in +1541. The castle, of which there are still ruins close to the L.&N.W.R., +dates from before the Domesday Survey. Visitors must not expect to find +a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72"></a>[Pg 72]</span>castle here such as those at Carisbroke or Lewes. The ruins, although +of considerable extent, are fragmentary, and little more than the plan +of this stronghold can now be traced. The moats are double to the N.W., +but triple elsewhere. Henry II. held a court here; and the castle was at +times the residence of many monarchs, particularly Edward III. The Black +Prince was a visitor here during his father’s reign. The Church of St. +Peter, on the N. side of the High Street, is by local authorities +claimed to be larger than any parish church in the county, saving only +St. Albans Abbey; but this distinction is also claimed for St. Mary’s, +Hitchin. The original structure was of great antiquity, dating from +pre-Norman times; but it was wholly rebuilt early in the reign of Henry +III. There are chantry chapels on either side of each transept; that +called “St. John’s Chantry” dates from about 1350. Among many other +features of interest note (1) fine groined roof of northern chantries; +(2) lancet windows in the chancel, containing fourteenth century glass; +(3) the E. window, a memorial to the poet Cowper; (4) tablet to Ann +Cowper, the poet’s mother; (5) brass to John Raven, Esquire to the Black +Prince; (6) altar tomb to John Sayer, head cook to Charles II.; (7) +mosaic reredos; (8) altar tomb and effigies of Richard Torrington (d. +1356) and Margaret his wife, in N. transept. During the restoration of +this transept in 1881 a portion of an ancient arch was discovered.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo008" name="illo008"></a> + <img src="images/illo008.jpg" + alt="CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD" + title="CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD" + height="416" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">CASTLE STREET, BERKHAMPSTEAD</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a>[Pg 73]</span>The Grand Junction Canal is close to the river Bulbourne, and partly +for this reason many small industries are pursued in the town, such as +the making of straw plait, scoops and shovels of various sorts, army +tent-pegs, etc. The present rectory is on a small hill near the church, +to the S. of the High Street; it stands on the site of the former house, +in which Cowper was born, and the old well-house, called “Cowper’s +Well,” may still be seen. There is a good library in the Mechanics’ +Institute. The almshouses, for six widows, were founded in 1681, by the +John Sayer mentioned above. The Kings of Mercia are known to have +resided and held courts here; King Whithred summoned a council to meet +at <i>Berghamstedt</i> in 697.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Berkhampstead, Little</span> (3 miles S. from Cole Green Station, +G.N.R.), has a stone church erected early in the seventeenth century. It +has a wooden belfry and spire. The building was restored in 1856-7, but +contains little of architectural or historical interest. There are, +however, several memorials, notably the altar table in memory of Bishop +Ken, born in the parish in 1637. On a hill N.E. from the church stands +the tall red-brick observatory erected by John Stratton in 1789, in +order, as it is said, that from its summit he might watch his ships in +the Thames. The tower has been called “Stratton’s Folly”.</p> + +<p><i>Bernard’s Heath.</i> (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Betlow</i> is a lordship of Long Marston (<i><a href="#LongMarston">q.v.</a></i>)</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo009" name="illo009"></a> + <img src="images/illo009.png" + alt="BISHOP'S STORTFORD" + title="BISHOP'S STORTFORD" + height="600" width="351"/> + <p class="caption">BISHOP’S STORTFORD</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74"></a>[Pg 74]</span>BISHOP’S STORTFORD is in the extreme E. of the county and on the Essex +border. It is an ancient town, deriving its name from the ford over the +river Stort, and from the fact that William I. gave the town to Maurice, +Bishop of London. It is famous for its Grammar School, at which the late +Cecil Rhodes, a native of the town, was educated. The site of Waytemore +Castle, built by William I., is on a mound near the road to Hockeril, +where a low, wide flint wall is partly surrounded by a moat. The church +of St. Michael on Windhill is Perp.; it was restored in 1859. There was +a former church on the same site; the present structure dates from say +1420-40. The nave has six bays; the tower is pinnacled and has a ring of +ten fine bells. Chauncy’s book has an interesting paragraph about this +church. “Three Gylds and a Chantry were founded in this church; the Gyld +of St. Mary; the Gyld of St. Michael; and the Gyld of St. John Baptist; +to which, An. 1476, Elizabeth Spycere gave Legacies, <i>viz.</i>, to the two +former 13s. 4d. a piece, to the last 40s. These Saints had their altars, +and St. Michael his Tabernacle, on which much Cost had been bestowed; +but the Chantry was founded in the time of Richard III. and the +Settlement thereof cost much Money.” Chancel and nave are separated by a +screen of carved oak; the font (Norman) was discovered during the +restoration of the church; there is a piscina in the S. aisle. The +clerestory was added and the chancel restored in 1884; on the chancel +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75"></a>[Pg 75]</span>floor is a brass to Lady Margaret Denny (d. 1648), “a maid of honour in +ordinary for five years to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory”. There is +also a memorial to Sir George Duckett, Bart. (d. 1822), who increased +the facilities for the navigation of the Stort, which is now navigable +by barges to the town. A cattle sale is held every Thursday, which is +market-day. The trade in malt is still very large. We read that in old +times a cross was erected on each of the four roads leading from the +town. The main thoroughfares are still in the form of a cross; going +down Windhill the visitor will find a bridge over the Stort before him, +and a main street on either side. The town can boast several of the +finest old inns in Herts.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Boreham Wood</span> (1¼ mile N.E. from Elstree) is a large and rather +prettily situated hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Bourne End</i>, 1 mile W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R., contains little +more than an inn, a coffee-room, and a few cottages standing beside the +Grand Junction Canal.</p> + +<p><a name="Bovingdon" id="Bovingdon"></a><span class="smcap">Bovingdon</span> (2½ miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station) is a large +village, built on the slopes of two hills, the centre of the village +being in the depression between them. The church dates from the end of +the eleventh century, but was rebuilt in 1846 in a Gothic style, with +pinnacled W. tower. Note (1) the effigy of an armoured knight under the +tower, dating from perhaps the middle of the fourteenth century; (2) +brasses to the Mayne family (1621-42). Some traces <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>[Pg 76]</span>of a Roman +encampment and villa are shown on inquiry at a spot near the village.</p> + +<p><i>Bowman’s Green</i> (¼ mile N.E. from London Colney and 2 miles S. from +Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a tiny hamlet near the river Colne and the +high road from Barnet to St. Albans.</p> + +<p><a name="Boxmoor" id="Boxmoor"></a><span class="smcap">Boxmoor</span> is a village about 1½ mile S.W. from Hemel Hempstead. +The Grand Junction Canal flows between the village and the town. From +the station, L.&N.W.R., a motor car plies to and from Hemel Hempstead. +Many Roman remains have been found in the neighbourhood, particularly +some remains of two Roman villas, and many coins of the period of +Diocletian. The church, erected in 1874, is E.E. in design, and was +planned by Mr. Norman Shaw. It has N. and S. aisles and porches. There +was an earlier structure on the same site. Private residences are +increasing so rapidly that the place is now almost a suburb of Hemel +Hempstead.</p> + +<p><i>Boydon’s Hill</i> adjoins the village of Aldenham.</p> + +<p><i>Bragbury End</i> (1¼ mile E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +on the Great North Road.</p> + +<p><a name="Bramfield" id="Bramfield"></a><span class="smcap">Bramfield or Braintfield</span> (3½ miles N.W. from Hertford Station, +G.N.R.) is a parish and village. The church is E.E., standing on the +site of an earlier edifice; the present tower and spire were built in +1840, and the church itself restored in 1870. We learn from Matthew of +Westminster that Thomas Becket <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>[Pg 77]</span>held the living here as his first +charge; a pond near the church is called “Becket’s Pond”. <i>Queen Hoo +Hall</i>, N.W. from the village, is now a farmhouse, but was formerly an +Elizabethan residence, and gave the title to a romance partly written by +Sir Walter Scott. The neighbourhood is pleasant, and a pretty stroll may +be taken either N.E. to Woodhall Park or S. to Panshanger Park.</p> + +<p><i>Brandley Hill</i> is 1 mile N.W. from Aston.</p> + +<p><a name="Braughing" id="Braughing"></a><span class="smcap">Braughing</span> has a station ¾ mile S.W. from the town, on the +Buntingford Branch of G.E.R. It is an ancient parish, the “Brachinges” +of <i>Domesday Book</i>, and was a Roman station. The church and few streets +of which the village consists are very picturesquely scattered on the +S.W. slope of a hill overlooking the river Quin, at the intersection of +the Roman Ermine Street and the road from Bishop’s Stortford to Baldock. +There was formerly a market each week, dating from the reign of Stephen; +also an annual fair, abolished many years ago. The church, close to the +hand-bridge over the river, is largely Perp., and contains a few +brasses, none of which are important. It has been partially restored on +several occasions during the last eighty years, and some of the modern +workmanship is very good. Note (1) open tracery in carved oak screen; +(2) oak pulpit; (3) finely carved font of Caen stone; (4) old font +outside, near the tower. At <i>Cockhampstead</i> (1½ mile E. from the church) +was once an Augustinian priory.</p> + +<p><i>Breachwood Green</i> (about 3½ miles N.E. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>[Pg 78]</span>from Luton Hoo Station, G.N.R., +and 1 mile S. from King’s Walden Church) is a village on high ground +rather more than a mile from the Bedfordshire border. Pretty walks may +be taken S.E. to Bendish or S.W. to Chiltern Green.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Brent Pelham</span> (1 mile from Essex border and 5 miles E. from +Buntingford) is an interesting village, formerly called Burnt Pelham +because, as tradition states, both village and church were destroyed by +fire during the reign of Henry I. Traces of the fire existed in the days +of Norden (<i>circa</i> 1548-1626). The church—near which the old stocks may +still be seen—is E.E., with the embattled western tower so frequent in +Herts. It is locally famous for a tomb in the N. wall, said to mark the +resting-place of one Piers Shonkes, a serpent slayer who lived in the +time of William I. The tomb bears some allegorical figures, which have +been the subject of diverse interpretations. <i>Pelham Hall</i> (E. E. +Barclay, Esq.), “a slight but well contrived House in this Mannor, near +the Church,” was built in 1620 by one Edward Newport. It was once owned +by the Floyers or Flyers, a family to whose memory there are several +memorials in the church.</p> + +<p><i>Brickendon</i> is now partly included in the borough of Hertford. There +are some imposing residences in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Bricket Wood</span> is almost exactly midway between St. Albans and +Watford; it consists of some cottages scattered around an extensive +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>[Pg 79]</span>wood and common, crossed by L.&N.W.R. The station is ½ mile from the +“wood,” which is much frequented by picnic parties, school treats, etc. +The district is good ground for the field botanist and entomologist.</p> + +<p><i>Broadfield</i> (2¼ miles N.W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet near Cottered, +on the hill N. from that village. The hall was once a much larger +structure (engraved in Chauncy, vol. i.); it was in part rebuilt in +1882, but still retains a portion believed to date from the fifteenth +century.</p> + +<p><i>Broadwater</i> is a hamlet at the meeting of the roads from Stevenage, +Hatfield and Hertford. The nearest station is Knebworth (1¼ mile S.).</p> + +<p><a name="Broadway" id="Broadway"></a><i>Broadway</i> (1½ mile S.E. from Berkhampstead) has a Dec. chapel-of-ease +to the parish church. It was erected in 1854. A short walk takes one to +the ruined chapel of St. Mary Magdalen on the Bucks border.</p> + +<p><i>Bromley</i> (1½ mile S.E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Broomin Green</i> (¾ mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +near the railway and ½ mile from the Six Hills. (See <a href="#Stevenage">Stevenage</a>.)</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo010" name="illo010"></a> + <img src="images/illo010.png" + alt="BROXBOURNE CHURCH" + title="BROXBOURNE CHURCH" + height="600" width="346"/> + <p class="caption">BROXBOURNE CHURCH</p> +</div> + + +<p><a name="Broxbourne" id="Broxbourne"></a><span class="smcap">Broxbourne</span>, a large village near the river Lea and New River, +is a favourite fishing resort. The church stands on high ground +overlooking the mill-leat; it is a fine Perp. structure, dating from +early in the fifteenth century. The N. chancel-chapel was built by Sir +William Say, “in honor a ye Trenete the yere of our Lord God 1522”; his +tomb is in the chancel. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>[Pg 80]</span>church was restored in 1857; the roof is of +fine oak panelling; the font, on eight pillars, is probably Early +Norman. There are brasses to a priest holding a chalice (<i>circa</i> 1470); +to another priest in robes (<i>circa</i> 1510); to Sir John Borrell, mace +bearer to Henry VIII. (d. 1521); to Sir John Say (d. 1478), and his wife +(d. 1473). Note also (1) holy water basin near door; (2) marble effigies +of Sir Henry Cock (d. 1609), and his wife and family; (3) shield of arms +in centre of nave, with verses in English, bearing date 1630. From the +church a very picturesque walk may be taken through the village, to +Hoddesdon, by way of “Admiral’s Walk,” or beside the Lea past the +grounds of the Crown Hotel. <i>Broxbournebury</i> (Major G. R. B. +Smith-Bosanquet, J.P.) is in the beautiful park, 1 mile W., and is a +large imposing mansion in Jacobean style. In Church Fields and on the +London Road are large rose-nurseries, producing an immense number of +roses yearly. The neighbourhood is one of the most pleasant in the +county.</p> + +<p><a name="Buckland" id="Buckland"></a><span class="smcap">Buckland</span> (3 miles N. from Buntingford, on the Royston Road) has +an E.E. church, built by Nicholas de Bokeland in 1348. The piscina at +the E. end of the S. aisle marks the site of what was formerly the +lady-chapel. The font is very possibly anterior to the Conquest; it is a +roughly hewn mass of Barnack stone. The low window in the S. wall of the +chancel was opened out during some renovations, and is thought to have +been connected with a confessional, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>[Pg 81]</span>as a coloured figure of the Virgin +was discovered on the wall. The theory, however, may be dismissed as +purely mythical. There is a brass to William Langley, a rector of the +church (d. 1478); a low-relief medallion by Chantrey to William Anthony +(d. 1819), and a brass to one of the Boteler family (1451). The interior +was restored in 1875; the new W. door, of oak, was added in 1881.</p> + +<p><i>Buck’s Hill</i> (2 miles S.W. from King’s Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a +pretty hamlet. The nearest parish church is about 1¼ mile N.E. at +Chipperfield (<i><a href="#Chipperfield">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Bulbourne" id="Bulbourne"></a><span class="smcap">Bulbourne</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Bull’s Green</i> is 2¼ miles N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Bull’s Mill</i> is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.</p> + +<p>BUNTINGFORD, a small town on the river Rib, on the Royston-Cambridge +Road, consists chiefly of the long High Street and of a few small +by-ways, E. by the river side, and W. on the roads to Aspenden and +Cottered. Standing across the High Street is the cruciform church of St. +Peter, built in 1614-26 as a chapel-of-ease to Layston (<i><a href="#Layston">q.v.</a></i>). An old +brass tablet still preserved represents the holding of a Divine service +in the church before completion. There is also a portrait of Seth Ward +(see <a href="#Aspenden">Aspenden</a>); the almshouses a few yards W. were founded by him in +1684. “This town,” wrote Chauncy, “is of small antiquity, for there is +no mention of it in Domesdei Book, neither can I find anything of it +before Anno. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82"></a>[Pg 82]</span>21. Edwd. III., when that King did grant one Market every +Week, and one Fair every Year in Buntingford, to Elizabeth de Burgo and +her Heirs, reserving the Yearly Rent of 6d.” At the N. end of High +Street is the old pound. <i>Corney Bury</i> (½ mile N.) is a fine old manor +house. Little of historic importance is to be gleaned in the town, but a +ramble from end to end is interesting by reason of the many quaint inns +and cottages, of all ages and styles, which meet the eye at every turn.</p> + +<p><i>Burnham Green</i> is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Bury Green</i> (1½ mile W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a small +hamlet near Theobald’s Park; also</p> + +<p><i>Bury Green</i>, a hamlet 2½ miles W. from Bishop’s Stortford.</p> + +<p><i>Bury Hill and Bury Mill.</i> (See <a href="#HemelHempstead">Hemel Hempstead</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Bury Stede.</i> (See <a href="#Hexton">Hexton</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Bush Barrow</i> is 1¼ mile N. from Wallington, on Metley Hill, midway +between the village and the Icknield Way.</p> + +<p><a name="Bushey" id="Bushey"></a><span class="smcap">Bushey</span> is a large village, now practically the S.E. suburb of +Watford. The station (L.&N.W.R.) is in the hollow between the village +itself and High Street, Watford; cyclists must be careful of the descent +towards that town. Near the centre of the village is a small green and +pond, and here stands the partly Dec. church of St. James, rebuilt in +1871 by Sir Gilbert Scott. The E.E. window, triple <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>[Pg 83]</span>lancet, is to the +memory of Edwards Marjoribanks of the Hall (d. 1879) and his wife. Silas +Titus, whose name is remembered for his supposed authorship of the +notorious pamphlet <i>Killing noe Murder</i>, was born at Bushey and buried +in this church; there is a headstone to his daughter in the graveyard.</p> + +<p><a name="BusheyHeath" id="BusheyHeath"></a><span class="smcap">Bushey Heath</span> (1 mile S.E. from the above) is on the Middlesex +border. It is now an ecclesiastical district, formed in 1889; the +church, an E.E. brick structure, dates from 1838; the porches were added +in 1882. The district is very healthy.</p> + +<p><i>Bushey, Little</i>, is E. from Bushey Heath, which it almost joins.</p> + +<p><i>Bushey Mill</i> is on the river Colne, ¾ mile N.E. from Watford Junction.</p> + +<p><i>Butchery Green.</i> (See <a href="#Hertford">Hertford</a>.)</p> + +<p><a name="Bygrave" id="Bygrave"></a><span class="smcap">Bygrave</span> (1¾ mile N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) has a small +church built of clunch from the Ashwell pits near by. It dates from +perhaps 1320. Note (1) octagonal font (about 1420-40), (2) slab on floor +to a former rector, a Huguenot (d. 1725), and (3) the piscina in +chancel. Close by, at the Manor House, are the remains of some moats +constructed five centuries ago by the resident knight, Sir John +Thornbury, because of the many marauders that infested the +neighbourhood. The place was once a market-town; the market, granted by +Henry III., was held each Monday. The village lies on high ground, a few +minutes’ walk N. from the Icknield Way.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>[Pg 84]</span><a name="Caldecote" id="Caldecote"></a><span class="smcap">Caldecote</span> (about 3 miles N.N.E. from Baldock Station, G.N.R.) +has a Perp. church of rubble, containing a few memorials, a very finely +canopied holy water basin, and a font dating from, say, 1480.</p> + +<p><i>Caldicot Hill</i> is 1 mile E. from Bushey Heath, on the Middlesex border.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cassiobury Park.</span> (See <a href="#Watford">Watford</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Catlip</i> is a hamlet near Chorley Wood Station, Met.R.</p> + +<p><i>Chandler’s Cross</i> (2½ miles S.W. from King’s Langley Station, +L.&N.W.R.) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Chapmore End</i> is 2½ miles N. from Hertford.</p> + +<p><i>Chelsing</i> is near the river Rib, 3 miles N. from Ware.</p> + +<p><i>Cherry Green</i> (1 mile S.W. from West Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a small +hamlet.</p> + +<p><a name="Cheshunt" id="Cheshunt"></a><span class="smcap">Cheshunt</span>, according to Grose’s <i>Antiquities</i>, the <i>Durolitum</i> +of Antoninus, is a large parish which contains much of interest. Its +ancient names, Cestre, Ceaster, Cestrehunt, leave little doubt that it +was a Roman station.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnnum">[3]</a> At Roman Urn Inn, near the station, G.E.R., is +an urn imbedded in the wall; it was discovered close by some years ago, +and is probably of Roman manufacture. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>[Pg 85]</span>Cheston, yet another old name of +this spot, has been thought to be derived from the chestnut trees once +plentiful in the neighbourhood, of which many of the houses were built. +William I. gave the manor to Alan the Red, Earl of Brittany, and it +remained an appendage to that earldom for a long time. Edward III. +granted a weekly market to be held in the town every Monday. The Church +of St. Mary the Virgin was built in 1420 by Nicholas Dixon, who held the +living of Cheshunt for thirty years. It is Perp., entirely embattled; +the W. tower has an octagonal cupola. Restoration was carefully effected +during 1872-4, under Mr. G. F. Bodley. The rood-screen, lectern and +pulpit are of carved oak, all comparatively new. The memorials are very +numerous; amongst them may be noted (1) brass on chancel floor to the +above-mentioned Nicholas Dixon (d. 1448); (2) brass to William Pyke (d. +1449); (3) two female effigies, 1500-20; (4) altar tomb in chancel to +Robert Dacres, Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. There are windows of +stained glass to a former vicar (d. 1858); to General Miles (d. 1860), +and, in the tower, to one Robert Archer, for thirty-six years parish +clerk. N. from the main street, near the river Lea, stood a small +Benedictine nunnery. It originally belonged to the Canons of Cathele, +but Henry III. turned them out and gave the property and rights to the +“Prioress and Nuns of Cesthont”. The college, a famous institution, +stands near the church; it was founded in 1768 by Selina, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>[Pg 86]</span>Countess of +Huntingdon, at Trevecca, near Talgarth, S. Wales, and removed to +Cheshunt after her death. A few years ago it was bought by the Church of +England, for use as a theological college. Close by, too, is the site of +Pengelly House, once the home of Richard Cromwell. Cheshunt Park (1 mile +N.) is full of memories of the Cromwells and the Russells. The Great +House, near Church Gate, was one of the many residences of Cardinal +Wolsey. Both the house and the moat are still preserved.</p> + +<p><a name="Chess" id="Chess"></a><span class="smcap">Chess</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Cheverell’s Green</i> (1½ mile N.W. from Flamstead, and about 4 miles N.W. +from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet and green adjoining +Beechwood Park.</p> + +<p><i>Childwick Green</i> is 1 mile S. from Harpenden Common, and 2½ miles N. +from St. Albans.</p> + +<p><a name="Chipperfield" id="Chipperfield"></a><span class="smcap">Chipperfield</span> (2½ miles W. from King’s Langley Station, +L.&N.W.R.) was made an ecclesiastical parish in 1863. The small church +on the common, E.E. in style, built in 1837, is of little interest. +There is a good lich-gate at the N. entrance to the churchyard. The +neighbourhood is pleasant and varied.</p> + +<p><i>Chipping</i> (2 miles N. from Buntingford) is a small village on the +Royston Road.</p> + +<p><i>Chivesfield (or Chesfield)</i> is 2 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, +G.N.R. It is locally famous for its ruined church. One John Wykins was +rector here as early as 1323. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>[Pg 87]</span>windows were partly destroyed in +1642. Some interesting memorials were extant in Chauncy’s day, and are +mentioned in the second volume of his <i>Antiquities</i>.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo011" name="illo011"></a> + <img src="images/illo011.jpg" + alt="CHORLEY WOOD COMMON" + title="CHORLEY WOOD COMMON" + height="357" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">CHORLEY WOOD COMMON</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Chorley Wood</span>, a village 2½ miles N.W. from Rickmansworth, has a +station on the Met.R. near the Amersham Road. The church, E.E. in style, +dates from 1845, but was largely rebuilt in 1870. William Penn, the +Quaker, was married here. There are many pretty walks through the Valley +of the Chess, which flows between the village and Sarratt (<i><a href="#Sarratt">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Church End</i> is a small hamlet in the parish of Albury, 3 miles E. from +Braughing Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><i>Clapgate</i>, a hamlet on the river Ash, is close to Church End.</p> + +<p><i>Clay End</i> (1½ mile S.E. from Walkern) is about equidistant—5 +miles—from Stevenage or Westmill Stations.</p> + +<p><i>Clay Hill</i> is on the high road between Bushey and Bushey Heath +(<i><a href="#BusheyHeath">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Clothall" id="Clothall"></a><span class="smcap">Clothall</span> (2¼ miles S.E. from Baldock) has an interesting +church, chiefly Perp., on a gentle hill. There is a good brass in the +chancel to John Vynter, first rector of the church (d. 1404), and one to +John Wright, Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, also rector here (d. +1519). On the S. of the church is a small Dec. chantry chapel. Note also +a sixteenth century brass to the wife and sixteen children of William +Bramfield of Clothall. The Saxons are said to have called the spot Cley +Hall, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a>[Pg 88]</span>because it stood on a hill of clay. Clothall Bury is a little to +the E.</p> + +<p><i>Cockernhoe Green</i> is 2½ miles S.W. from Offley, and 2½ miles N.E. from +Luton Station (Beds).</p> + +<p><i>Cockhampstead</i> (2 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is near +Albury Hall.</p> + +<p><a name="Codicote" id="Codicote"></a><span class="smcap">Codicote</span> (3 miles N.W. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is a large +village on the Welwyn-Hitchin Road, with a pleasant heath a little W. +The Church of St. Giles is an ancient structure, E.E., restored in 1853; +it stands in a field ½ mile N. from the village. The S. chapel dates +from 1312. The embattled W. tower is a fine structure. There are several +memorial windows, comparatively modern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cole Green</span> has a station on the G.N.R. branch line from +Hatfield to Hertford. From the station little is to be seen except the +Cowper’s Arms and a few cottages.</p> + +<p><i>Coleman’s Green</i> (1½ mile S.E. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.) is +prettily situated near the “Devil’s Dyke” and Brocket Hall. John Bunyan +sometimes preached in a cottage here; a large chimney-stack, bearing an +inscription, still marks the spot, unless quite recently removed.</p> + +<p><i>Collier’s End</i> is on high ground, on the Old North Road, 2 miles S.W. +from Standon Station, G.E.R. It is a very typical English hamlet.</p> + +<p><a name="Colne" id="Colne"></a><span class="smcap">Colne</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Colney Heath</span> (1 mile S. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is an +ecclesiastical parish. The <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a>[Pg 89]</span>brick church (1844) is in Byzantine style; +it has an apsidal chancel, and small N. porch and tower. The new West +Herts County Asylum is close by.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Colney Street</span>, on the main road from Radlett to St. Albans, +forms an almost equilateral triangle with Park Street and Bricket Wood +Stations, L.&N.W.R. It is only a few minutes’ walk from the pretty +church at Frogmore (<i><a href="#Frogmore">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Common Moor</i> may be visited from Croxley Green (¾ mile N.E. from +Rickmansworth) for an inspection of its large paper mill.</p> + +<p><i>Cooter’s End</i> is a tiny hamlet close to the M.R. on the Bedfordshire +border.</p> + +<p><i>Corey’s Mill</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R., is +named from an old mill, burnt in 1878.</p> + +<p><a name="Cottered" id="Cottered"></a><span class="smcap">Cottered</span> (3 miles W. from Buntingford) has a fine old church +(Perp.). There is a chapel on the N. side of the chancel erected by +Edward Pulter; the W. tower is embattled and carries a lofty spire. +Several memorials to the Pulter and Forester families are of the +seventeenth century. The church was restored in 1886. In the days of +William I. the <i>vill</i> of Chodrei belonged to Walchelin, Bishop of +Winchester. <i>Cottered Lordship</i>, a farmhouse near the village, is one of +the very oldest dwellings in the county. The writer is assured by an +expert that the front door dates from 1450-80!</p> + +<p><i>Cromer</i>, a hamlet 5 miles S.W. from Buntingford, is prettily situated +in a valley, in a purely agricultural district.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>[Pg 90]</span><i>Cromer Hyde</i> (1½ mile S. from Ayot Station, G.N.R.) consists of a +farmhouse, the Chequer’s Inn, and a few old and picturesque cottages. +The nearest church is ½ mile S.E. at the corner of Brocket Hall Park.</p> + +<p><i>Croxley Green</i> (¾ mile N.E. from Rickmansworth) is an ecclesiastical +parish near the river Chess. The church, built fifty years ago, is late +E.E. in style and has some good memorial windows.</p> + +<p><i>Cuffley</i> is a small hamlet about midway between Cheshunt and Potter’s +Bar (Middlesex) Stations, but a little N. from the straight line. The +Church of St. James at Goff’s Oak (<i><a href="#GoffsOak">q.v.</a></i>) is 1 mile E.</p> + +<p><i>Cumberlow Green</i> is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford.</p> + +<p><i>Currants Bottom</i>, on the Bucks border, is close to Chorley Wood +Station, Met.R.</p> + +<p><i>Dane End</i>, or Munden Street, is 4 miles S.W. from Standon Station, +G.E.R. The nearest church (½ mile N.) is at Little Munden.</p> + +<p><i>Dane End</i>, 4 miles S. from Royston, is close to the Old North Road. +There are a few cottages and two farms.</p> + +<p><i>Dassells</i> is a hamlet on the Old North Road, 1 mile E. from Westmill +Station, G.E.R. The little river Quin flows close by.</p> + +<p><a name="Datchworth" id="Datchworth"></a><span class="smcap">Datchworth</span> (1½ mile S.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) has a +church with some Norman portions. Its spire is conspicuous for miles +round. The larger portion is, however, Dec. Note (1) some good stained +glass windows <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>[Pg 91]</span>in chancel; (2) chalice dated 1630. The church was +restored in 1869-70. The place is very ancient; we read that four hides +of land at <i>Decewyrth</i> were granted by an early Saxon king to the +Monastery of St. Peter at Westminster, and that in the reign of Edward +III. Thomas de la Mere, Abbot of St. Albans, transferred the patronage +of this church to the king.</p> + +<p><i>Dean End</i> (¾ mile S. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Delamore End</i> is ½ mile E. from Flamstead, and near the high road to +Dunstable. The nearest railway station is Redbourn, 2½ miles S.E.</p> + +<p><i>Digswell</i>, a village on the river Maran, is ½ mile S.W. from Welwyn +Station, G.N.R. Looking E. the visitor will notice the Great Northern +Viaduct over the Maran Valley—a truly magnificent structure of forty +arches. The church, beautifully situated on the hill, <a name="cm8" id="cm8"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr8" +title="Original reads 'in'">is</a> E.E. It +contains a large but much mutilated brass to John Perient, Master of the +Horse to Joan of Navarre and Esquire to Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry +V. This interesting inscription being much defaced I will transcribe +from Chauncy: “Hic jacet Johannes Perient, Armiger pro corpore Regis +Richardi Secundi, et Penerarius ejusdem Regis, et Armiger. Regis Henrici +Quarti, et Armiger etiam Regis Henrici Quinti et Magister Equitum +Johannæ, filiæ Regis Navarr, et Regiæ Angliæ qui obiit—et Johanna uxor +ejus quondam capitalis Domicilla<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>[Pg 92]</span>—quæ obiit 24 Aprilis Anno Dom. 1415.” +Note also brasses (1) to John Perient, son of the above (d. 1442); (2) +William Robert, auditor of the diocese of Winchester (d. 1484); (3) to a +civilian, his wife, and ten children (<i>circa</i> 1530); (4) to Thomas +Hoore, a mercer of London, his wife, and twelve children. The church was +restored in 1872.</p> + +<p><i>Digswell Water</i> is a hamlet ½ mile E. from Digswell Church, and close +to Welwyn Station.</p> + +<p><i>Down Green</i> is ½ mile W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Driver’s End</i>, a hamlet 2 miles W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., is +on the S.W. confines of Knebworth Park. One mile S. is the village of +Codicote. The neighbourhood is very pleasant.</p> + +<p><i>Dudswell</i>, a few cottages on the Grand Junction Canal, is ½ mile N.W. +from Northchurch village, and 2 miles N.W. from Berkhampstead Station, +L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>East End</i> (1 mile S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.) is between +Panshanger Park and the River Lea. There is also a hamlet of the same +name on the Essex border, about 5 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, +G.E.R.</p> + +<p><a name="Eastwick" id="Eastwick"></a><span class="smcap">Eastwick</span> (1 mile N.W. from Burnt Mill Station, G.E.R.) is a +parish near the Essex border, on the river Stort. The church, rebuilt in +1873, is in E.E. style. It is locally famous for its recumbent statue of +a knight in chain armour, resting on a raised slab; the legs are +crossed. There is neither date nor name; but <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>[Pg 93]</span>it has been surmised (1) +that the crossing of the legs shows that he was probably a crusader, (2) +that the effigy dates from early in the thirteenth century and +represents a member of the De Toni or De Ros family. The former +conjecture is undoubtedly erroneous. There is a piscina in the chancel.</p> + +<p><a name="Elstree" id="Elstree"></a><span class="smcap">Elstree</span>, formerly Idlestree, is a large village beautifully +situated on the Middlesex border; the station (M.R.) is to the N.E. at +Boreham Wood. At the N. end of the street a fine view stretches in the +direction of Radlett and St. Albans. The Church of St. Nicholas was +founded by the Benedictine monks of St. Albans in the fourteenth +century; the present structure is Dec. and dates from 1853. The +monuments are unimportant; but the wrought-iron chancel screen, designed +by Sir A. W. Blomfield, is worthy of careful scrutiny, as is also the +vestry screen of carved oak. The five-light E. window was presented by +the pupil of a former rector, John Morris, D.D. (d. 1848), to whom it is +a memorial. In the old churchyard, closed some years ago, was buried the +notorious robber and reputed murderer William Weare, who was murdered by +Thurtell on Gill’s Hill, 2½ miles N.W., in 1823. Here, too, was buried +Martha Reay, whose life was a chronicle of crime; she was mistress to +the Earl of Sandwich, and was killed on leaving Covent Garden Theatre, +in 1779. There is excellent fishing to be had at Elstree Reservoir, a +little W., in Aldenham parish. Some archæologists have thought that <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>[Pg 94]</span>the +Roman city <i>Sulloniacæ</i> occupied (approximately) the site on which +Elstree stands, and Norden lent his authority to this hypothesis; but +there is little doubt that Brockley Hill near Edgware more closely +corresponds in position with the city mentioned in the <i>Itinerary</i> of +Antoninus.</p> + +<p><i>Epping Green</i>, a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from Little Berkhampstead, is at +the N. end of Punsborne Park. The nearest station is Cole Green +(G.N.R.), nearly 4 miles N.W.</p> + +<p><a name="Essendon" id="Essendon"></a><span class="smcap">Essendon</span> is a pretty village on rising ground overlooking the +Valley of the Lea, 2 miles S. from Cole Green Station. The church, +standing in the park, was rebuilt in 1883; it was probably founded as +early as the twelfth century. It is now of flint, dressed with ancaster +stone. Note (1) alabaster monument to William Priestly (d. 1664); (2) +brass and effigy of William Tooke, auditor of the Court of Wards and +Liveries (d. 1588); (3) shields from the tomb of Henry Courtenay, son of +Henry, Marquess of Exeter; (4) chalice bearing date 1570, given to the +church by Elizabeth Reynes; (5) Baskerville Bible presented by the First +Marquess of Salisbury. During restoration several slabs to the Tooke +family (1635-55) were discovered. <i>Essendon Place</i> (David Citroen, Esq.) +is a fine house in a park of 100 acres; and <i>Bedwell Park</i> (C. G. +Arbuthnot, Esq.) should be visited, by special permission, to view the +Belvedere Collection, including one of Murillo’s many “Assumptions”.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>[Pg 95]</span><i>Exnells</i>, near the river Ash, is a small hamlet 2 miles N.E. from +Hadham Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><i>Fanham Hall</i> is 1 mile N.E. from Ware.</p> + +<p><i>Fisher’s Green</i> (½ mile N.W. from Stevenage) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Flamstead</i> (2½ miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) lies on high +ground near the river Ver. The name is a corruption of Verlamstead, the +river having formerly been called the “Verlam”. The church is in the +centre of the village; it is a large Dec. structure dating from the +fourteenth century; the nave is of six bays, with fine octagonal +pillars. The tower is very large and massive. Note (1) piscina in W. +wall of vestry, once a chapel; (2) piscina in chancel; (3) finely carved +oak chancel screen, dating from fifteenth century but restored in 1893; +(4) mutilated altar-tomb in nave, carved and crocketted, but bearing no +inscription, it is probably not later than 1400-20; (5) marble monument, +with Ionic columns, to Thomas Saunders of Beechwood; (6) brass to John +Oudeby, rector of the church (d. 1414); (7) effigy in armour to Sir +Bartholomew Fouke, Kt., for many years Master of the Household to Queen +Elizabeth (d. 1604). At <i>Beechwood Park</i>, so called because of the many +fine beeches in the neighbourhood, was once a Benedictine Nunnery. The +walk from Flamstead to Great Gaddesden, by way of Beechwood Park (about +6 miles), is very picturesque.</p> + +<p><i>Flamstead Bury</i> is 1 mile W. from Redbourn <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>[Pg 96]</span>Station, M.R., and midway +between the N. end of the village and a spot called Heaven’s Gate.</p> + +<p><i>Flamstead End</i> (1½ mile N.W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a +considerable hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Flaunden</i> (4 miles S.W. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a village +and parish on the Bucks border, with the river Chess 1¼ mile S. The +present church is modern, and local folk claim that it is the first +built by the late Sir Gilbert Scott. The font, and a few tiles, etc., +were brought here from the old church at Flaunden Bottom near Chenies, +some ruins of which still remain. Chauncy tells us that Flaunden +belonged to the manor of Hemel Hempstead, that it was granted to one +Thomas Flaunden, who built a small church in the valley near the river +(Chess) with a small tower of timber at the W. end. Spiritual offices +were performed by a curate supplied from Hemel Hempstead, who served +Bovingdon and Flaunden by turns as duty required.</p> + +<p><i>Folly, The</i> (a small hamlet 1 mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, +G.N.R.), is passed on the way to Harpenden or Mackery End. A little +farther W. is Batford Mill on the river Lea.</p> + +<p><i>Frithsden</i> (or <i>Friesden</i>), a hamlet 2 miles N.E. from Great +Berkhampstead, stands in a beautiful district, with Ashridge Park to the +N.W. The nearest church is at the pretty village of Nettleden (<i><a href="#Nettleden">q.v.</a></i>) ½ +mile N.E. High Park Road, Evesden Wood, Marigold Wood, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>[Pg 97]</span>Holly Bush Wood +and Frithsden copses are all adjacent and may be visited during an +hour’s ramble.</p> + +<p><a name="Frogmore" id="Frogmore"></a><span class="smcap">Frogmore</span> (¾ mile S.E. from Park Street Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a +hamlet between the villages of Park Street and Colney Street. The church +is modern, in late Norman style; it stands close to the high road from +Radlett to St. Albans. There are several memorial windows to local +persons. The village flower show has been held for many years in July, +and is well patronised and widely known. The river Colne flows between +this hamlet and Park Street Station.</p> + +<p><a name="FurnPelham" id="FurnPelham"></a><span class="smcap">Furneaux Pelham</span> (4 miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) +has an interesting E.E. and Perp. church. One of the six bells in the +embattled W. tower dates from before the Reformation; it bears, in +black-letter, the words “Sancta Katarina ora pro nobis”; upon the clock +in the tower are the words: “Time flies. Mind your business.” Note (1) +piscina and sedilia in chancel; (2) piscina in each aisle; (3) Newport +Chapel adjoining S. aisle, built by the Robert Newport whose brass and +effigy is in the nave (d. 1518); (4) brass (mutilated) in chapel, +representing two figures, <i>temp.</i> Richard II.; (5) ambry (lancet headed) +in chancel; (6) three ancient stone coffins, discovered during +restoration, one bearing the words: “Simonis de Furneaux Filius”. The De +Furneaux were a Norman family, to whom the village owes its name: Simon +de Furneaux <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>[Pg 98]</span>was lord of the manor in the reign of Edward I. Close to +the church is <i>Furneaux Pelham Hall</i> (recently unoccupied), a fine +Elizabethan mansion whose owners suffered several misfortunes during the +civil wars.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gaddesden, Great</span> (3 miles N.W. from Hemel Hempstead), is a +village on the river Gade at the foot of the hill that leads to +Nettleden. The church is close to the river side, and immediately behind +the <i>Cock and Bottle Inn</i>. It is an ancient structure of “Roman bricks” +and flint (E.E.), believed to date from, say, 1290; the tower was +rebuilt in 1862. There are many memorials to the Halsey family, but few +others of any interest. <i>Gaddesden Place</i>, in a park ½ mile E., is the +seat of Rt. Hon. T. F. Halsey, Esq., D.L., J.P. It was built from +designs by Wyatt, in 1774, in an Italian style.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gaddesden, Little</span> (4 miles N. from Berkhampstead Station, +L.&N.W.R.), is a straggling village on the confines of Ashridge Park. +Pretty cottages and tastefully planned gardens meet the eye everywhere. +The church is Perp. and contains many monuments to the Egerton family, +Earls of Bridgewater: (1) Sir John Egerton, Kt. (d. 1649); (2) Lady +Frances, Countess of Bridgewater (d. 1635); (3) John, Viscount Brackley, +Lord of the Privy Council (d. 1686); (4) Elizabeth, Countess of +Bridgewater, a “transcendently virtuous lady” of “beauty so unparallel’d +that ’tis as much beyond the art of the most elegant pen, as it +surpasseth the skill of several of the most exquisite pencils <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>[Pg 99]</span>... to +describe and not disparage it” (d. 1663); (5) Ann, Lady Egerton (d. +1625); (6) Francis, third Duke of Bridgewater (d. 1803). The latter was +styled the Father of British Inland Navigation; and the tall column near +Ashridge Park, 1¾ mile W. from the church, was erected to his memory in +1832.</p> + +<p><i>Gaddesden Green</i> is practically one with the above, the marble cross +and fountain to the memory of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888) being between +the village and the Green. Gaddesden Hoe is 2 miles E. from the S. end +of the Green.</p> + +<p><i>Gaddesden Row</i> (3 miles N. from Hemel Hempstead Station, M.R.) is a +straggling hamlet equidistant (about 2 miles) from Flamstead and Great +Gaddesden.</p> + +<p><a name="Gade" id="Gade"></a><span class="smcap">Gade</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Gallows Hill</i> (½ mile S. from King’s Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is a +hamlet. The Booksellers’ Provident Retreat is here. It is also the name +of a hill between Hertford and Ware, on which stands the Joint Isolation +Hospital for the two towns.</p> + +<p><i>Gannock Green</i> is 2½ miles S. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R. The nearest +church is at Sandon. Gannock Farm is ½ mile E.</p> + +<p><i>Gardener’s End</i> (3½ miles W. from Buntingford) is a hamlet in the +parish of Ardeley.</p> + +<p><i>Garston</i> is 1¼ mile S.W. from Bricket Wood Station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>Gibraltar</i>, on the road from Harpenden to Luton, is on the Bedfordshire +border, close to Luton Hoo Park and Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>[Pg 100]</span><a name="Gilston" id="Gilston"></a><span class="smcap">Gilston</span> (2 miles N. from Burnt Hill Station (Essex) and about +2 miles S.E. from Widford village) is a scattered parish. Chauncy says +it was probably waste ground at the time of the Conquest, as there is no +mention of it in <i>Domesday Book</i>. The church was very probably erected +by Geoffrey de Magnaville, who was Earl of Essex and Lord of the Manor +of Sabriesword (Sawbridgeworth) during the reign of Stephen. It is E.E. +and stands on the hill about ¼ mile N. from the Park. There is a fine +double piscina in the chancel, and some heraldic glass in the windows, +showing the coats of Astley, Bassett, Eastfield and Engayne. The +monuments to the Gore family are numerous; amongst those buried in the +church are (1) Sir John Gore, Kt. (d. 1659); he was twice sheriff of the +county, and a member of Cromwell’s second Protectorate Parliament; (2) +Dame Dorothy Gore (Kempe), second wife to the foregoing (d. 1645); (3) +Dame Persis, wife to Sir Humphrey Gore, Kt. (d. 1665); (4) in +churchyard, John, eldest son of the said Sir Humphrey (d. 1691). The +Feathers, a fine old inn (<i>circa</i> 1680), still stands in this village; +an excellent photograph of it was reproduced in the <i>Home Counties +Magazine</i> (Oct. 1901). <i>Gilston Park</i>, beautiful but not very extensive, +should be visited; for the mansion (A. S. Bowlby, Esq., M.A., J.P., +etc.) stands near the site of <i>New Place</i>, successively the home of the +Chauncys, Gores and Plumers. The house was enlarged and beautified by +Sir Humphrey Gore, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a>[Pg 101]</span>who was knighted at Whitehall in 1660. In 1701 it +passed into the hands of Col. John Plumer, whose family is so well known +to readers of the <i>Essays of Elia</i>. It was his grandson William (d. +1822) whom Lamb calls “a fine old Whig”. This William left no family, so +the house at Gilston Park and his other house, the famous “Blakesmoor in +H——shire” of Lamb’s essay, passed to his widow (and cousin) Jane +Hamilton, a daughter of Hon. George Hamilton, Canon of Windsor.</p> + +<p><a name="GoffsOak" id="GoffsOak"></a><i>Goff’s Oak</i> (2½ miles W. from Cheshunt Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +which owes its name to the fine oak, a part of which still stands near +the Goff’s Oak Inn at the S. extremity of Cheshunt Common.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gorhambury.</span> (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Gosmore</i> (2 miles S.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) is a small +village. The nearest church is at Ippollitts (<i><a href="#Ippollitts">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Gossoms End</i> is on the road from Berkhampstead to Tring, ¼ mile S.E. +from Northchurch.</p> + +<p><a name="Graveley" id="Graveley"></a><span class="smcap">Graveley</span> (1½ mile N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a +village off the Great North Road. By walking from Stevenage towards +Little <a name="cm9" id="cm9"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr9" +title="Original reads 'Wymondly'">Wymondley</a> a pretty view over Graveley may be obtained from a +gateway near some cottages on the right. The ancient church of brick and +flint is late Norman with embattled tower; it was restored in 1886-7. +The carved oak chancel-screen is ancient; there are windows of stained +glass to the memory of local rectors. The present N. aisle was added +during restoration. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>[Pg 102]</span>The manor of Graveley is of great antiquity; it was +given by William I. to William, Earl of Ewe. Graveley is perhaps Saxon +for “the Reeve’s land,” and Norden thinks the place took its name from a +Reeve of the county in pre-Norman times. Near the village a beacon was +employed “once upon a time” to give warning of the approach of enemies. +One mile N. from the church is Jack’s Hill, once the haunt of a robber, +“Jack o’ legs,” the hero of many a legend known in the district. His +grave is shown in Weston churchyard, 2 miles E. from Jack’s Hill.</p> + +<p><i>Gravesend</i> (3½ miles N.E. from Braughing Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +on the road from Little Hadham to Furneaux Pelham. Albury church is 1 +mile S.</p> + +<p><i>Green End</i> is the name of three hamlets, (1) in the parish of Little +Munden, about 4 miles W. from Standon Station; (2) in the parish of +Sandon, about 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station (both stations +G.E.R.); (3) ½ mile N. from Boxmoor Station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>Green Street.</i>—There are two hamlets of this name in Herts, (1) 2½ +miles N.W. from Bishop’s Stortford; (2) 1½ mile N.E. from Boreham Wood +Station (M.R.).</p> + +<p><i>Green Tye</i> is 1½ mile N.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><i>Grub’s Barn</i> (2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) consists of a +farmhouse and several cottages on open breezy ground between Hatfield +and Tewin.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>[Pg 103]</span><i>Grub’s Lane</i> is near the outskirts of Hatfield Park, 3 miles S.E. from +the town.</p> + +<p><i>Gubblecot</i> (3 miles N.W. from Tring) is near the Aylesbury Canal. The +Tring reservoirs, famous for the rare waterfowl shot on those waters on +many occasions, are a little to the S.</p> + +<p><i>Gustard Wood</i> (1 mile N. from Wheathampstead Station G.N.R.) may be +visited for its golf links, of which there are few in the county.</p> + +<p><a name="Hadham" id="Hadham"></a><span class="smcap">Hadham</span> (<span class="smcap">Great</span> or <span class="smcap">Much</span>) is an ancient village +and parish near the river Ash. The station, G.E.R., is 1¼ mile S.W. We +read that the Manor was given by King Edgar to the Bishops of London, +several of whom have resided at the old manor house. Katherine, mother +of Henry VI. and wife of Owen Tudor, gave birth to a son here, known as +Edmund of Hadham. The church of St. Andrew, near the river, is E.E., +dating from about 1300. It has been much altered and restored. The very +fine S. porch is thought to be the work of Bishop Kemp (1459-89); the +massive, embattled W. tower is probably by Bishop Braybroke (<i>circa</i> +1400). Note (1) floriated cross and inscription to Simon Flambard, +Rector of Hadham Magna in 1331, and chaplain to Edward III.; (2) brass +to one Alban, also rector here (d. 1372); (3) monument in chancel to +Judith Aylmer, widow of John Aylmer, Bishop of London (d. 1618); (4) +fourteenth-century glass in E. window, a memorial to Thomas Randolph, a +recent rector; (5) <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>[Pg 104]</span>three brasses in nave to members of the Newce family +(1579-1610); (6) fine oak chancel screen; (7) two piscinæ in chancel. +The old House, or Palace, dated from about 1400. Close to the village +(S.W.) lies <i>Moor Park</i>, which readers or tourists must not confound +with Moor Park, Rickmansworth (<i><a href="#MoorParkRick">q.v.</a></i>). The present mansion dates from +about 1780; its predecessor was an Elizabethan structure, once the +property of Sir John Gore, Kt. (see <a href="#Gilston">Gilston</a>), and previously of Sir +Garratt Harvey, in whose day Archbishop Usher was a guest at “Moore +Place”. At <i>Perry Green</i>, 1 mile E. from Hadham Station, is a +chapel-of-ease, in E.E. style, erected in 1853. <i>Hadham Cross</i> is +beautifully situated in the valley, S. from the village and partly +hidden among trees.</p> + +<p><i>Hadham Ford</i> (3 miles E. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) is on the river +Ash, 1 mile S.W. from</p> + +<p><a name="LittleHadham" id="LittleHadham"></a><span class="smcap">Hadham (Little)</span> formerly Hadham Parva. The parish enjoys +considerable historic importance through its connection with the Capel +family, Earls of Essex. The present earl owns large properties in the +neighbourhood, and has the title of Baron of Hadham. The church stands +between the village and the river, and is widely known for its fine S. +porch of timber, which it possibly owes to the proximity of Essex, in +which county such porches are comparatively common. The building is +mostly E.E., probably late twelfth century, but the tower, embattled and +pinnacled, is Perp. (<i>circa</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>[Pg 105]</span>1380). Note (1) brass to Rd. Waren, a +rector of Great Hadham (<i>circa</i> 1470); (2) brass to a knight, his wife +and daughters (<i>circa</i> 1485); (3) Perp. chancel screen of oak; (4) on S. +side of chancel, memorial stone to “Arthur Lord Capel, Baron of Hadham, +who was murder’d for his loyalty to King Charles the First, March the +9th, 1648”. This was the Lord Capel whose heart was preserved in a +silver box and given to Charles II. at the Restoration, the earl having +wished his heart to be “buried with his master”. The chancel was +restored by Sir A. W. Blomfield in 1885. <i>Hadham Hall</i> (½ mile E. from +the church) is late Elizabethan, and has a magnificent corridor +extending the entire length of the house (135 feet) with finely +mullioned windows. <i>Little Hadham Place</i> (½ mile W. from the church) is +prettily situated. The manor of Hadham Parva formed part of the revenue +of Saxon Kings until King Edgar gave it to the monks of Ely.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Haileybury College</span> (2 miles S.E. from Hertford) was founded at +Hertford in 1805 as the training college of the East India Company. It +is now one of our most famous public schools. The house, conspicuous +from the S.E., stands on high ground, and commands beautiful views over +the valley of the Lea, and, looking S.E., the neighbourhood of Epping +Forest. Note (1) the noble chestnut avenue towards the W. entrance; (2) +the great size of the quadrangle; (3) the beautifully decorated chapel +(by A. W. Blomfield), surmounted by a lofty dome; (4) <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>[Pg 106]</span>the library, +containing some good portraits of former masters, one of which, Canon +Bradby, was painted by Herkomer.</p> + +<p><i>Hall’s Green</i> (4 miles N.E. from Stevenage) is on the hillside, 1 mile +S.E. from Weston church. A little farther S. note the fine view over +Cromer and Cottered, with windmill to the left.</p> + +<p><i>Hammond Street</i> is between Cheshunt Common and Flamstead End. The +nearest Station is Cheshunt, G.E.R., 2½ miles S.E.</p> + +<p><i>Hammond’s End</i>, on the outskirts of Rothamstead Park, is in the centre +of the pleasant varied scenery between the M.R. and the St. +Albans-Dunstable road. The nearest station is Redbourn, 1¼ mile S.W.</p> + +<p><i>Handside (Upper and Lower)</i> is the name of two hamlets in Lemsford +parish, both near Brocket Hall Park. Hatfield (about 3 miles S.) is the +nearest station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hare Street.</span>—There are two places in the county bearing this +name: (1) a small hamlet partly in Ardeley and partly in Cottered +parish; (2) a large village on the Cambridge Road, 2 miles E. from +Buntingford. The village has several quaint old cottages, and is by no +means unpicturesque; but it contains little of historic importance. It +affords, however, a good centre from which to visit several old and +interesting churches (described elsewhere in these pages); Layston, +Wyddial, Anstey, and Great and Little Hormead being all within a short +walk.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>[Pg 107]</span><i>Harmer Green</i> (½ mile N.E. from Welwyn Station) is a small hamlet N. +from the Maran Valley.</p> + +<p><a name="Harpenden" id="Harpenden"></a><span class="smcap">Harpenden</span> is well worth a visit and may be easily reached from +St. Pancras (24 miles), or from King’s Cross by changing at Hatfield. +Visitors wishing to inspect the church, or to ramble through the large +village, beautifully situated at the N. end of Harpenden Common, should +be careful not to choose the day of the annual races, the Friday before +Epsom week. The church was rebuilt (except the tower) in 1862, in E. +Dec. style; prior to 1859 the old structure had been a chapel-of-ease to +Wheathampstead (3 miles E.). It probably dated from say 1140 (<i>temp.</i> +Stephen) and was originally cruciform and late Norman. The first tower +is believed to have been destroyed by fire about 1470, after which the +present W. tower was built. Many alterations were made during the +seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the original Norman clerestory, in +particular, being superseded by one of Low Perp. Note (1) Norman font; +(2) brass to William Cressye Esq. (d. 1558) and Grace (Johnson) his wife +(d. 1571); (3) brass to William Annabull (d. 1456), and Isabella his +wife. Chauncy quotes an inscription to one William Seabrooke (d. 1462) +and Joanna his wife, which is of some interest from the fact that the +name of Seabrooke is common to-day in this part of Herts; (4) E. window +of stained Munich glass; (5) window in N. transept to the family of the +late Sir J. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>[Pg 108]</span>B. Lawes of Rothamstead. <i>Rothamstead</i> (1 mile S.W.), +formerly the seat of the above, is in a finely wooded park. Erected +about 1470, it has been almost rebuilt at different times. From the +grand entrance, under the clock tower, there is a fine view looking S. +There is an annual Flower Show in the park. Harpenden Bury is 1 mile +N.W. from Rothamstead, on the river Ver.</p> + +<p><i>Hatching Green</i> is a hamlet on Harpenden Common, 1 mile S.W. from the +station, M.R.</p> + +<p>HATFIELD may be visited by fast train from King’s Cross, G.N.R. (17 +miles), the station being opposite the W. gates of the park. The older +parts of the town lie on the western slope of a hill close to the +railway; at the top stand the church and portions of the old palace, +beyond which, in the park, stands the fine mansion of the Cecils. The +town is of great antiquity; the Saxon Kings, who called it Heathfield +(the <i>Hetfelle</i> of <i>Domesday Book</i>), owned the manor until it was given +by Edgar to the monks of Ely. After Ely had been converted into a +bishopric by Henry I., the bishops made Hatfield one of their several +residences, which gave rise to its former name of Bishop’s Hatfield. +Their palace became a royal home during the reign of Henry VIII., and +was at one time occupied by his children Edward, Mary and Elizabeth. It +was to this old palace that Elizabeth was brought from the Tower soon +after her removal from Ashridge; whilst here she was in the custody of +Sir <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>[Pg 109]</span>Thomas Pope, who treated her with kindness not always shown even +to royal prisoners. The story of her reception of the news that she was +Queen, of her first Council, held here in the palace, and of her +subsequent journey to London, has been too often narrated to need +repetition. Immediately after her death James I. paid a visit to +Theobalds Park, and had an interview with Sir Robert Cecil, a younger +son of Lord Burleigh, whom he presently created first Earl of Salisbury. +The exchange by the King of his manor of Hatfield for that of Theobalds +has been mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroX" >Section X</a>). The King promised to +build for Sir Robert a new house at Hatfield; the work was carried out +on a magnificent scale, and was completed sometime in 1611. The new +house stood a little E. from the old palace. To this house James paid an +early visit; one of its most stately apartments is called “King James’s +Room”.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo012" name="illo012"></a> + <img src="images/illo012.png" + alt="HATFIELD HOUSE" + title="HATFIELD HOUSE" + height="345" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">HATFIELD HOUSE</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Hatfield House</i> is still a fine example of early Jacobean architecture. +To be appreciated it must certainly be seen: any adequate account of its +architecture, its history and its treasures would fill such a volume as +this. In shape it is a parallelogram, about 280 feet long by 70 feet +wide, with two wings on the S. front. The centre between the two wings +is Italian Renaissance in style; the central tower, pierced by the great +gate, being of rich Elizabethan design. On the face of the third storey +of the tower are the armorial bearings of the Earl of Salisbury. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>[Pg 110]</span>This +S. front and the two wings enclose on three sides a quadrangle about 130 +feet wide by 100 feet deep, beautifully laid out with flower beds and +lawns. The extremities of each wing take the shape of square, three +storeyed towers, surmounted by cupolas 20 feet high. Between the wings +runs a basement arcade, of eight arches on Doric pilasters, four on each +side of the gateway below the armorial bearings. The entire floor above +the arcade is occupied by the long gallery, 160 feet by 20 feet, and 16 +feet high. At the W. end of this gallery is the library, at the E. end +is King James’s Room. The aspect of the house from the N. is not so +imposing; but there is a noble view over the grounds from the N. +terrace, and the central clock tower is a conspicuous object from the +most distant spots in the park. The library, graced by Zucchero’s +portrait of Robert, Earl of Salisbury, contains one of the most valuable +collections of MSS. in the country, but the State Papers have recently +been lodged in a room of greater security. A few of the treasures of +these two rooms may be mentioned: (1) more than 12,000 autograph letters +of the early Cecils; (2) the Diary of the “great Lord Burleigh”; (3) the +forty-two articles of Edward VI. with his autograph attached; (4) a +vellum MS. with miniature of Henry VII.; (5) the Norfolk correspondence; +(6) the Council Book of Mary Tudor; (7) early MS. of the Chronicle of +William of Malmesbury; (8) autograph MS. by Ascham.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo013" name="illo013"></a> + <img src="images/illo013.png" + alt="KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE" + title="KING JAMES'S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE" + height="600" width="339"/> + <p class="caption">KING JAMES’S DRAWING-ROOM, HATFIELD HOUSE</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>[Pg 111]</span><i>King James’s Room</i> has three fine oriel windows and is profusely +decorated. The great chimney-piece of marble mosaic, 12 feet wide, is +supported on black Doric columns, and surmounted by a statue in bronze +of James. Note the costly candelabra and gilt-framed furniture.</p> + +<p><i>The Grand Staircase</i> is hung with portraits of many Cecils, by Lely, +Vandyck, Kneller, Reynolds and other masters. Note the huge dimensions +of the carved balustrade; the strange rustic figures portrayed thereon; +and the lions grasping shields bearing heraldic devices. There are five +landings.</p> + +<p>Among other apartments the following should be visited: (1) <i>The +Chapel</i>, with its fine Flemish windows representing scriptural stories, +marble altar-piece, and open stalls; (2) the <i>Winter Dining Room</i>, +looking out upon the N. terrace, about 30 feet square; this room +contains many valuable pictures, including Wilkie’s Duke of Wellington, +Van Somer’s James I. and Charles I., and Kneller’s Peter the Great; (3) +<i>Great Banqueting Hall</i>; (4) <i>Summer Dining Room</i>, near the foot of the +great staircase; the bust of Burleigh, in white marble, is above the +door; (5) the <i>Armoury</i>, full of treasures “rich and rare,” suits of +armour, relics of the Spanish Armada, various arms, etc. Other pictures +in various parts of the house include (1) William III., and Lady +Ranelagh, by Kneller; (2) half-length of Elizabeth with jewelled +head-dress and grotesquely embroidered gown; Mildred Coke, mother of the +first earl; Thomas Cecil, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a>[Pg 112]</span>Earl of Exeter: all by Zucchero; (3) fine +whole-length of Mary, first Marchioness of Salisbury, by Reynolds.</p> + +<p>The Park is the largest in the county, being about 9 miles in +circumference; it is undulating and beautifully wooded. There are some +superb avenues. Of Queen Elizabeth’s oak, N.E. from the N. terrace, +little is left saving a portion of trunk, railed round; but the Lion +Oak, between the house and the great W. gates, still puts forth leaves +in its season. The maze close to the house is only less famous than that +at Hampton Court.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Ethelreda is cruciform, largely Dec. and one of the +largest in the county. A Norman arch in the S. transept is thought to be +a portion of the original structure. It was completely restored, indeed +almost rebuilt, in 1872. The nave is 102 feet by 20 feet; the chancel +about 40 feet by 20 feet. There are N. and S. porches; the former looks +almost directly upon the great gate-house of the old palace. The most +important among many features of interest is the—</p> + +<p><i>Salisbury Chapel</i>, N. side of chancel, from which it is divided by an +arcade of three arches on Ionic granite columns. The whole is enclosed +by beautifully designed iron gates, the work, probably, of an unknown +Italian. Note the marble wainscotting, and the finely conceived and +executed allegorical paintings and mosaics on walls and roof. At the E. +side, on a slab of black marble supported by four kneeling <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a>[Pg 113]</span>figures in +white marble (representing the cardinal virtues) lies the recumbent +effigy of Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, Lord High Treasurer +of England (d. 1612). The effigy is in robes, with official staff in +hand. Beneath the slab is a skeleton in white marble. Note also in this +chapel mezzo-relievo effigy to William Curll, Esq. (d. 1617), with +inscription, almost illegible, to the effect that he was a most +Christian knight who died in hope of a joyful resurrection.</p> + +<p>On the opposite (S.) side of the chancel is the <i>Brockett Chapel</i>, +containing monuments to the Reades and Brocketts of Brocket Hall (see +below). Among them note (1) two recumbent female figures, above them the +arms of the Brockett family and beneath an inscription to Dame Elizabeth +Brockett (d. 1612) and an epitaph to Dame Agnes Saunders (d. 1588); (2) +medallion of a female by Rysbrack (1760); (3) bust of Sir James Reade, +Bart. (d. 1701), and of Sir John Reade, Bart. (d. 1711); (4) helmet of +Sir John Brockett on wall. There are piscinæ in the chancel and N. +transept, both discovered during restoration. The reredos, alabaster and +mosaic, has a fine crucifixion group, with SS. Alban and Etheldreda on +either side, carved by Earp, who also carved the pulpit of Caen stone. +Note the beautiful clustered shafts of marble on the font of Tisbury +stone, the gift of the late Marchioness of Salisbury.</p> + +<p>Three miles N.N.W. is <i>Brocket Hall</i>. The Great North Road skirts the +park on the E. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>[Pg 114]</span>and the river Lea flows past the house from N.W. to S.E. +The present edifice was designed by Paine for Sir Matthew Lamb, Bart., +whose son, Sir Peniston Lamb, Bart., became Viscount Melbourne in 1780. +By this nobleman the Prince Regent was sometimes entertained here, and +here, as stated in the Introduction, Lord Palmerston died in 1865. The +drawing-room and grand staircase have always been admired, but, as a +whole, the house is large and stately rather than beautiful. Elizabeth +is said to have visited here before she became Queen, and in the park, +as at Hatfield, an oak is shown as the one under which she loved to sit. +From the Hall the most charming walks may be taken in any direction; +<i>e.g.</i>, through the park S.E. to Lemsford Mill, or S.W. to Cromer Hyde, +N.W. to Water End, or N.E. to Ayot Green. More charming still is the +ramble—permission should be requested—beside the winding Lea towards +Old Marford and Wheathampstead.</p> + +<p><i>Hatfield Hyde</i> (1¾ mile N.E. from Hatfield) is a hamlet in a pretty +district, with the river Lea and Hatfield Park a little S.</p> + +<p><i>Haultwick</i> lies 3 miles W. from the Old North Road; it is a hamlet 1 +mile N. from Little Munden. The nearest station is Braughing, G.E.R. +(about 3½ miles E.), passing the S. side of Hamel’s Park.</p> + +<p><i>Heavensgate</i> (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) consists of a few +cottages in the centre of a district of small hamlets. The walk <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>[Pg 115]</span>(2 +miles N.) to Flamstead through Trowley Bottom is pleasant.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo014" name="illo014"></a> + <img src="images/illo014.png" + alt="HEMEL HEMPSTEAD" + title="HEMEL HEMPSTEAD" + height="600" width="347"/> + <p class="caption">HEMEL HEMPSTEAD</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="HemelHempstead" id="HemelHempstead"></a>HEMEL HEMPSTEAD.—Visitors from London should book to Boxmoor +(L.&N.W.R.) and walk N.E. over the little common or take the motor-bus +through Marlowes to the town (1½ mile). From St. Albans it is a pleasant +walk by way of Gorhambury and the village of Leverstock Green; from +Redbourn it is but a few minutes’ journey (M.R.). The town, until +recently an old “Bailiwick,” is on a hill, with central market place, +town hall and corn exchange. The church is very ancient; it is +cruciform, of flint and clunch stone. The oldest portions can hardly be +less than 750 years old; the nave, arcade and W. doorway are fine +examples of the period. Note (1) groined roof and Dec. windows S. side +of chancel; (2) transept roof, fourteenth century, restored in 1880; (3) +nave roof, fifteenth century, restored 1885; (4) great height of +octagonal, leaded spire, conspicuous for miles round (see illustration). +Among monuments note (1) figured brass, representing an armed man, to +Robert Albyn and Margaret his wife (1480); the inscription I transcribe +from Chauncy:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Robert Albyn gist icy<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Et Margareta sa femme oubike luy<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dieu de lez almes eyt mercy”;<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>(2) monument to Sir Astley Paston Cooper (d. 1841).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>[Pg 116]</span>Hemel Hempstead, according to Norden, owed its name (Heanhamsted) to +the high hemp-land on the E. side of the town. Offa, King of the +Mercians, gave six houses at <i>Hemelhamstede</i> to the Abbey of St. Albans; +but the remainder of the <i>vill</i> remained in the hands of Saxon Kings +until it was given to Earl Moreton by William I. The entry in <i>Domesday +Book</i> is in this case unusually interesting; the property held by Earl +Moreton is thus described: “Earl Moreton held Hamelhamstede in Treung +hundred, it was rated for 10 hides ... there are two Frenchmen born, +with thirteen Bordars, ... there are eight Servants, and four Mills of +seven and thirty Shillings and four Pence Rent by the Year, and three +hundred Eels wanting five and twenty, Meadow four Carucates, Common of +Pasture for the Cattle, and two Shillings Rent by the Year, Wood to feed +one thousand and two hundred Hogs; in the whole value it is worth two +and twenty Pounds, when he received it five and twenty Pounds, and Rent +in the time of King Edward (the Confessor). Two were Brethren, Men of +Earl Lewin, they held this mannor.” From Priory Hill, W. from the +church, a fine view may be obtained of the town below and the cornfields +beyond. <i>Bury Mill</i> is on the river Gade, at the foot of the hill. +<i>Gadesbridge Park</i> is on the left as you pass from High Street to +Piccott’s End; the House is on a beautifully wooded slope, W. from the +Gade; it is the residence of Sir Astley Paston Paston Cooper, Bart., +J.P., <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>[Pg 117]</span>etc. A good deal of straw plait is still made by the women of +this neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><i>Heronsgate</i> (3 miles W. from Rickmansworth) is a hamlet on the Bucks +border, with a small chapel-of-ease to St. Peter’s, Mill End, 1¼ mile E. +The building is modern, with one window of stained glass.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo015" name="illo015"></a> + <img src="images/illo015.png" + alt="HERTFORD" + title="HERTFORD" + height="600" width="348"/> + <p class="caption">HERTFORD</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="Hertford" id="Hertford"></a>HERTFORD, the county town, is of immemorial antiquity. The origin of the +name has elicited much learned conjecture, and Hertford is one of +several places held to be the <i>Durocobrivis</i> mentioned by Antonine. It +is the <i>Herudsford</i> (<i>i.e.</i> red ford) of the Venerable Bede. That it was +a town of some importance on the river Lea even in the days of the +Trinobantes seems indisputable. Norden conjectured that the true name of +the town was Hartford, so called because in Saxon times, when the +surrounding country was densely wooded, the harts crossed the river by a +natural ford at this spot. However this may be, the old borough seal, +three or four centuries ago, bore as a device a hart in shallow water. +The rivers Rib, Beane, and Maran all unite with the Lea in the immediate +neighbourhood. Some reference may be here made to the doings of Alfred +the Great in this neighbourhood. By putting together what is recorded by +William of Malmesbury, Henry of Huntingdon, Asser and others we learn +that in the twenty-third year of Alfred’s reign the Danes infested the +Thames with their ships, sailed up the Lea in the lighter of their +crafts, and built a fort about 20 miles from London, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>[Pg 118]</span>at or near what is +now the town of Ware. Presently, in the course of their many foraging +excursions, they sailed farther up the river towards Hertford, stripped +the people in the town and burnt down many houses. They afterwards +established a garrison near the town. Alfred brought his army down to +the river side the following year and made a careful survey of the +Danish fort and of the character and position of their ships. He is said +to have passed from place to place in a boat, drawn by a horse, and to +have carefully ascertained the depth of the water at different points. +The precise nature of his subsequent operations is not well known, but +he is said to have diverted the course of the river, to have erected a +dam (Shass) at Blackwall, and by these means to have grounded the Danish +fleet. The Danes held a treaty, and eventually withdrew into +Cambridgeshire and Gloucestershire; the Londoners came down to the scene +of Alfred’s ingenuity and destroyed or appropriated the Danish ships.</p> + +<p>Of the castle, built by Edward the Elder in 905, there still remain +several large fragments of an embattled wall, partly Norman, and a +postern gate. Of its history only a few leading facts can be mentioned +here. William I. entrusted it to the keeping of Peter de Valoignes; it +was besieged by Louis the Dauphin, and capitulated on the Feast of St. +Nicholas in 1216; it was granted, together with the town, to John of +Gaunt, Earl of Richmond, in whose <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a>[Pg 119]</span>time Kings John of France and David +of Scotland were prisoners within its walls, and after the Earl had been +created Duke of Lancaster he held a court in the castle for three weeks. +It was the last prison house of Isabella, widow of Edward II. Henry IV. +gave the castle to his wife Joan; Henry V. to his wife Katherine of +France; and Henry VI. to his wife Margaret of Anjou. Elizabeth and James +I. are both said to have visited this castle. Charles I., on 3rd May, in +the sixth year of his reign, transferred it to William Earl of +Salisbury. It was seized by the Parliament during the Great Rebellion.</p> + +<p>The Roman Catholic Church in St. John Street stands on or near the site +of the old Priory, founded during the reign of William I. by Ralph +Limesy and by him conveyed to the Abbot of St. Albans, who placed here +six Benedictine monks under Ralph, who became their first prior. The +Priory was dissolved in the twenty-sixth year of Henry VIII.; but the +church was rebuilt by Thomas Willis in 1629. It was “demolisht by order +of the Bishop of Lincoln” towards the end of the seventeenth century. +The church of All Saints, on high ground E. from the town, was destroyed +by fire in 1891, when almost everything perished. It was immediately +rebuilt as a Perp. structure of Runcorn stone, and consecrated in 1895. +In the main, the plan of the old church has been followed, but the +aisles are longer than formerly; note the fine clerestoried nave of five +bays, and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>[Pg 120]</span>hexagonal N. porch. The old building contained monuments to +Sir John Harrison, Kt., Farmer of Customs to Charles I. (d. 1669);<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnnum">[4]</a> to +Isabel Newmarch, maid of honour to Isabella, daughter of Charles VI. of +France and second wife to Richard II.; and to Johannes Prest, “porter” +(janitor) to Katherine, wife of Henry V. The two latter monuments were +removed more than 200 years ago. Note the beautiful chestnut trees in +the avenue near the church, and the many quaint epitaphs on the +tombstones in the extensive graveyard. The Church of St. Andrew is +modern; it occupies the site of an older Perp. edifice, originally +founded before the Conquest. Close by in the market place is the Shire +Hall, a large brick building of “questionable shape” erected towards the +close of the eighteenth century. Malting, brewing and general trade in +corn and its products form the larger part of the industries of +Hertford. Between this town and Ware is the spot where Cromwell put a +summary period to the insurrection of the “Levellers” by shooting a +ringleader named Arnald.</p> + + +<p><i>Hertford Heath.</i> (See <a href="#LittleAmwell">Amwell, Little</a>.)</p> + +<p><a name="Hertingfordbury" id="Hertingfordbury"></a><span class="smcap">Hertingfordbury</span> may be visited from Hertford, the station +(G.N.R.) being 1½ mile S.W. The village is pleasantly situated on the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>[Pg 121]</span>river Maran, on the S. confines of Panshanger Park. The church, partly +rebuilt by Earl Cowper in 1890-3, was founded during the fifteenth +century. It contains little of architectural interest, but the monuments +are numerous: (1) marble mosaic altar tomb to Sir W. Harrington, with +alabaster effigies of himself and wife and inscription in rhyme; (2) +slab to Thomas Ellis (d. 1608) and Grace his wife (d. 1612); (3) +recumbent effigy in marble to Lady Calvert, wife of Sir George Calvert, +Kt., who died in 1622; (4) to Dr. Jonathan Browne, Dean of Hertford (d. +1643); (5) very ancient brass inscription beneath chancel arch to two +daughters of Robert de Louthe, and one of similar age to Robert de +Louthe and his wife. The Cowper Chapel, N. side of chancel, contains +many monuments to that family, particularly a fine alto-relievo by +Roubeliac to Spencer Cowper (d. 1727), chief Justice of Chester in 1717.</p> + +<p><a name="Hexton" id="Hexton"></a><span class="smcap">Hexton</span> (about 6 miles N.W. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.) lies +on a tongue of the county surrounded W., N. and E. by Bedfordshire. The +Church of St. Faith, W. from the village, was rebuilt, with the +exception of the embattled tower, in 1824, as a Perp. edifice. The St. +Nicholas Chapel, N. side of chancel, takes the place of the chapel +bearing the same name in the former church. There is a memorial to Peter +Taverner (d. 1601), who was, I suppose, father to that Francis Taverner, +Esq., who compiled a record of the antiquities of Hexton and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>[Pg 122]</span>set it in +the chapel. Little space can be spared for excerpts in this volume, but +the details which Taverner brought together are so interesting that I +transcribe a part of them from a copy in my possession:—</p> + +<p>“Near unto the Roman military Way called Icknild or Ikenild-Street, +which passeth by this Parish upon a very high Hill is to be seen a +warlike Fort of great Strength, and ancient Works, which seemeth to have +been a Summer standing Camp of the Romans: And near it on the Top of +another Hill called Wayting-Hill, a Hillock was raised up, such as the +Romans were wont to rear for Souldiers slain, wherein many Bones have +been found. The Saxons call’d this Fort Ravensburgh, from a City in +Germany, whereof the Duke of Saxony beareth the Title of Lord at this +Day. And this Town, which the Britains perhaps call’d Hesk of Reed, +which doth abound much in this Place; the Sazons call’d Heckstanes-Tune, +that is the Town of Reed and Stones, if not rather Hockstanes-Tune, that +is, the Town of Mire and Stones, for old Englishmen, call deep Mire, +Hocks: Or may be from Grates set in Rivers or Waters before Floodgates, +which are call’d Hecks; neither is it unlikely but that the Danes made +some Use of this Fort, for a Parcel of Ground near thereunto is called +Dane-Furlong to this Day. Some of these Conjectures may be true, but +this is certain, that Offa, a Saxon King, of the Mertians about 795, +founded the Monastery of St. Albans, in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>[Pg 123]</span>Memory of St. Alban, and that +Sexi an honourable and devout Dane (as it is in the Chartulary of the +Abby) about Anno Dom. 1030, gave to the said Monastery the Town of +Heckstane-Tune and the Abbot of St. Albans held this Mannor in the time +of King William the Conqueror.</p> + +<p>“This Vill at that time did lie in the Half-hundred of Hiz, and from +that time during the Space of 510 Years, the Abbots of St. Albans were +Lords of the Mannors now call’d Hexton. They were also Patrons of this +Church (dedicated to St. Faith, which Saint had her Statue erected over +a Fountain near this Church Yard, call’d St. Faith’s Well) for John de +Hertford, the 23d Abbot, did appropriate this Church of Hexstoneston to +the said Monastery. The Cellarers of which Monastery kept the Court Leet +and the Court Baron, and received the Rents of the Demeasnes and +Customary Tenants of this Mannor; and the Sacrists had the disposing of +the Profits of the Rectory.</p> + +<p>“The said Fort, which the common People call Ravensborough Castle, is +cast up in the Form of an Oval, and containeth sixteen Acres, one Rood, +and fifteen Poles of Ground, and is naturally strengthened with mighty +deep and very steep Combs, which the inhabitants call Lyn.</p> + +<p>“The Town of Hexton is seated at the Foot of the Mountains, whence issue +many Springs of Water; the Mountains are a continued Rock of Stone.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a>[Pg 124]</span><a name="HighCross" id="HighCross"></a><span class="smcap">High Cross</span> (3 miles N. from Ware) is a village and parish on +the Old North Road. It has a modern Dec. church of grey stone, +containing several good stained-glass windows, but little of +architectural interest. <i>Youngsbury</i>, a beautiful but small park, S. +from the village, has a fine Georgian residence (C. B. Giles-Puller, +Esq.). The little river Rib skirts the park on the S. side. There is a +small hamlet of the same name 1¼ mile S.W. <a name="cm10" id="cm10"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr10" +title="Original reads 'From'">from</a> Radlett Station +(M.R.).</p> + +<p><i>High Street</i> is a small hamlet on the Cambridge Road, near the river +Quin. Braughing Station (G.E.R.) is 1¼ mile S.</p> + +<p><i>High Wych</i> (2 miles N. from Harlow Station, Essex) has an E.E. church, +built in 1861; the marble reredos, finely worked, was added in 1871. The +trade in malt is large for so small a place.</p> + +<p><i>Highley Hill</i> (1 mile S.W. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is on the +Cambridgeshire border.</p> + +<p><a name="Hinxworth" id="Hinxworth"></a><span class="smcap">Hinxworth</span>, formerly Hamsteworde and Henxworth (4 miles N. from +Baldock), is close to the Bedfordshire border. The parish is very +ancient. The church of St. Nicholas was erected about 1400 on the site +of an earlier structure. It is a mixture of several styles, partly +restored in 1881. Note (1) two canopied Perp. niches in S.E. angle of +nave, where was formerly the lady-chapel; (2) brass to John Lambard, a +master of the Mercers’ Company (d. 1487), and Anne his wife; (3) oak +roof in chancel, added <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a>[Pg 125]</span>in 1892; (4) rood-stairs. William I. divided +the <i>vill</i> between three Normans, Peter de Valoignes, Hardwin de +Scalers, and William Earl of Ewe, who owned much other property in +Hertfordshire. The vill was subsequently divided into two manors, one of +which belonged to William de Cantilupe, a Steward and Councillor to King +John, and the other, during the reign of Henry VII., to John Lambard +mentioned above. This manor was called Pulter; and the old house (now +<i>Hinxworth Place</i>, ½ mile S. from the village) was once inhabited by +some Cistercian monks of the Monastery of Pipewell (Northants). Note the +clunch walls and mullioned windows, in one of which, designed in stained +glass, are the armorial bearings of three former owners. Two hundred +years ago the village consisted of thirty-five dwellings, three of which +were almshouses.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo016" name="illo016"></a> + <img src="images/illo016.png" + alt="HITCHIN" + title="HITCHIN" + height="600" width="346"/> + <p class="caption">HITCHIN</p> +</div> + +<p>HITCHIN is an ancient town, full of interest, 32 miles N. from King’s +Cross, G.N.R. It was formerly called Hitche, very probably from the +little river Hiz, which rises at Well Head, about 1½ mile S.W. from the +centre of the town. Roman coins and pottery, and even prehistoric +implements have been found in great quantities in the neighbourhood, and +there are traces of a prehistoric lake bed, to the S.E. <i>The Priory</i>, +immediately S. (R. H. J. Delmé-Radcliffe, Esq., J.P.), occupies the site +of a Carmelite monastery and Conventual church founded in the reign of +Edward II.; and the Biggin Almshouses, close to the church, still +preserve some <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>[Pg 126]</span>of the old fabric of the Gilbertine Nunnery, founded in +the reign of Edward III. The Church of St. Mary (formerly St. Andrew), +just off the N.E. corner of the market-place, is thought to be the +largest parish church in the county, the other claimant for that honour +being St. Peters, Great Berkhampstead. The whole structure is embattled. +The square W. tower is of unusual size, but low in proportion. Entering +by the fine old S. porch we notice the niches for statues, none of which +remain, and the vaulted roof, badly battered and marred by—as is +supposed—the zealous iconoclasts of Cromwell’s army. Opposite, over the +N. porch, hangs a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, believed to be +by Rubens; it was formerly over the communion table. The church has been +restored at intervals since 1858; but the fine Perp. aisle-roofs still +remain. The font, of Ketton stone, is ancient, and formerly had statues +of the twelve Apostles in niches; these, however, have been mutilated +almost beyond recognition; the beautiful oak canopy is new. Note the +effigy in stone lying in the recess of the first window of the N. aisle, +believed to be that of Bernard de Baliol, founder of the Preceptory of +Knights Templars at Temple Dinsley (3 miles S.), and the mosaics of the +reredos, representing the Last Supper, Christ and the woman of Samaria, +Moses striking the rock, and other subjects from Scripture. The screens +of carved oak, between the aisles and chancel aisles, are among the +finest in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>[Pg 127]</span>county. Memorials are numerous; some ancient brasses +having been brought to light during restoration. Among the brasses are +one (1) to John Beel, Margary his wife, and their eight children (1477); +this is near the pulpit; (2) to James Hert, B.D. (d. 1498); (3) to John +Pulter, a draper (d. 1421), and his wife Alice, the effigies almost +obliterated; (4) to Nicholas Mattok, and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1485); +this Nicholas was a fishmonger of London, and a merchant of the staple +of Calais; (5) portion of a brass, near the chancel steps, to John +Sperehawke, D.D., Canon of Wells (d. 1474).</p> + +<p>Adjoining the W. end of the churchyard is Golden Square, once the +residence of Eugene Aram, from which we may pass into Bancroft, one of +the widest thoroughfares in the county. Close by is Tilehouse Street; +the Baptist Chapel, on the left, some way up the street, was restored in +1894: it stands on the site of the building in which Bunyan preached; a +chair which he gave is still shown in the vestry. It may here be +mentioned that George Whitefield and George Fox are both known to have +visited Hitchin during their missionary wanderings. A little farther W. +is Mount Pleasant, thought to be the birthplace of George Chapman, the +translator of Homer. That he finished his translation in this +neighbourhood is matter of knowledge; but what is told of his family +connections with Hitchin is little more than conjecture.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>[Pg 128]</span>Between the town and the station, G.N.R., stands a modern church of red +brick, dressed with Bath stone, E. Dec. in style. There are good oak +stalls and a sedile in the chancel.</p> + +<p>Hitchin was noted during the sixteenth century for its trade in wood and +malt. There were at one time tan-yards beside the Hiz, and the +buckle-makers of Bucklersbury gave that street its name. The +malting-yards occupied much of the ground on both sides of Bancroft. The +making of lavender water in the town is referred to in the Introduction.</p> + +<p><a name="Hockeril" id="Hockeril"></a><span class="smcap">Hockeril</span> is now the E. suburb of Bishop’s Stortford, the bridge +over the Stort, near the Old Black Lion, connecting it with the town. It +has a modern Gothic church. The E. extremity of Hockeril is almost on +the border line between Hertfordshire and Essex.</p> + +<p>HODDESDON (1½ mile N. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is an ancient +market town, lying on high ground among beautifully diversified +surroundings. It is known, at least by name, to all readers of <i>The +Complete Angler</i>; but the old Thatched House, to which Izaak Walton +often resorted, has long been a thing of the past. The Bull Inn still +remains where it stood in the time of Prior, whose allusion to it in his +<i>Down Hall</i> is invariably quoted in local handbooks:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Into an old inn did this equipage roll,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">At a town they call Hod’sdon, the sign of the Bull,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Near a nymph with an urn that divides the highway,<br /></span> +<span class="i2">And into a puddle throws mother of tea”.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>[Pg 129]</span>The stone figure to which Prior refers is no longer to be seen. At the +S. end of the High Street, on the right when entering the town from +Broxbourne, stands <i>Rawdon House</i>, an embattled Jacobean mansion of red +brick, built by Sir Marmaduke Rawdon in 1622. It was restored in 1877, +and the stucco with which it was formerly coated was removed. A tower, +with cupola roof, is at the rear of the house, which is now a convent +for Augustinian nuns.</p> + +<p>The Church of St. Catherine, close to the site of the old Thatched +House, but W. from the opposite side of the High Street, dates from +1732; the tower was added in 1888. It is a large building of red-brick, +in mixed styles, with small windows of stained glass in the chancel. It +is not interesting.</p> + +<p><i>Hollesmore End</i> (2 miles W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a small +hamlet.</p> + +<p><a name="Holwell" id="Holwell"></a><span class="smcap">Holwell</span> is a village and parish transferred from Bedfordshire +to Hertfordshire in 1897. It is about 1½ mile N.E. from Pirton (<i><a href="#Pirton">q.v.</a></i>); +the nearest station is Henlow, M.R., 2 miles N. The Church of St. Peter, +very much restored, was originally Perp. There is a xii century holy +water basin, and a very curious old brass to Robert Wodehouse, a priest +(1515), with figures of two <i>wodehowses</i> (wild forest men) and of a +chalice and paten.</p> + +<p><i>Hook’s Cross</i> (2 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +on the main road from Hertford to Stevenage. <i>Frogmore Hall</i> stands in a +small park ½ mile E.; it is a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>[Pg 130]</span>large modern mansion of red brick and +stone facings. The grounds are very picturesque, and are divided by the +river Beane.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hormead, Great</span> (2½ miles E. from Buntingford), has a restored +fifteenth century church, perhaps 1400-20, containing a brass to a +benefactor, one William Delawood (1694) and a mural monument to +Lieut.-Col. Stables, killed at Waterloo. The village is close to the +river Quin, which flows between the church and Hare Street on the +Cambridge Road.</p> + +<p><i>Hormead, Little</i> (½ mile S. from the above), has a quaint little Norman +and E.E. church on the hill crest overlooking Hare Street. Leaving the +Cambridge Road at the S. end of that village, and crossing the river +Quin, the rounded arch of the Norman doorway on the N. side of the nave +catches the eye as we approach the village. The door itself is partly of +wrought iron work, seventeenth century; an engraving of it is in +Cussans’ <i>History of Hertfordshire</i>. There is excellently preserved work +in the Norman nave. It has been surmised that “Hormede” was formerly one +<i>vill</i>, that it was divided soon after 1100, and the two churches built +on the hill less than ½ mile apart. Ralph Baugiard and Eustace, Earl of +Boulogne, together held the manor of “Hormede” at the time of the Great +Survey, and the names Hormead Magna and Hormead Parva are of later +origin.</p> + +<p><i>Horse Shoes</i> (½ a mile N. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +in the parish of Colney Heath.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>[Pg 131]</span><i>Howe Green</i>, a small hamlet, is 1¼ mile S. from Cole Green Station, +G.N.R. Pretty walks may be taken S. to Bedwell Park, or N.W. to the mill +on the Lea, Rye Croft, and Mill Green.</p> + +<p><a name="Hunsdon" id="Hunsdon"></a><span class="smcap">Hunsdon</span> (2 miles N.E. from Roydon Station, Essex) is a very +ancient village. The E. Perp. church of flint is thought to date from +1400, and the N. porch of oak is probably coeval with the main +structure. Note the finely carved Jacobean screen which divides the Cary +Chapel in the S. transept from the nave, and, in the chapel, the +imposing monument and alabaster effigies to Sir John Cary (d. 1617) and +his wife. The monument is built into the wall; behind it is a rather +long, but historically important inscription:—“Here resteth in Peace +Sir John Cary, Knight, Baron of Hunsdon (being the fourth Son to the +Right Honorable Henry Baron of Hunsdon) and the Lady Mary Hunsdon his +Wife, Daughter to Leonard Hide of Throcking in the county of Hertford, +Esq.; The Said Sir John Cary was sent to Barwick by the late Queen +Elizabeth of Famous Memory, in the Year of our Lord, 1593, to be +Marshall of the Town of Barwick, and Captain of Norham; afterwards he +was made Governor of the said Town and Garrison of Barwick, and Lord +Warden of the East Marches of England,... Scotland, and so he remained +until he returned into England with the most famous King James, where he +entered into the Possession of the Crown of England; and so <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>[Pg 132]</span>having two +Sons and two Daughters ended this transitory Life, in an assured Hope to +rise again in Christ.” In the chancel windows are some white roses, and +a badge of the House of York; note also the canopies in these windows, +and the figures of Apostles in the W. window. On the N. wall of nave is +a fine brass to James Gray, showing a man shooting at deer with a +crossbow; this Gray was gamekeeper for thirty-five years at <i>Hunsdon +House</i>. Bishop Ridley preached from the pulpit on several occasions.</p> + +<p><i>Hunsdon House</i> stands between the church and Gilston Park. During the +reign of Edward IV., Sir John Oldhall “built here a fair House after the +mode of a Castle ... which building, ’tis said, cost £7,222”. This would +be an enormous sum of money in those days. The original structure had a +high tower and large courtyard. Henry VIII. made the house a palace, and +in so doing appears to have almost rebuilt it; it is known that his +children were often here, as the King had a high opinion of +Hertfordshire air. Queen Elizabeth gave the estate to Sir Henry Cary, +Kt., her cousin, and created him Baron Hunsdon. The “palace” was +surrounded by a moat, crossed by two bridges; the grand entrance and +lofty clock tower, the outhouses and grounds are elaborately depicted in +a print in Chauncy’s <i>History</i>. The present house was erected at the +beginning of this century, partly on a fresh site, but some portions of +what was the W. extremity of the old palace are built into the E. wing. +Two <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>[Pg 133]</span>fine Jacobean chimney-pieces still remain; but little else is left +of the old Tudor home, and the moat has been levelled. The present +house, however, is an imposing, even noble structure of red brick, and +its position, backed by the grand old elms in the park, is very +picturesque. N.E. stood Hunsdon Lodge, the hunting lodge of Queen +Elizabeth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Hunton Bridge</span> is a pleasant little village at the meeting of +the roads from Watford, King’s Langley, and St. Albans, on the Grand +Junction Canal. The nearest station is King’s Langley (L.&N.W.R.), 1¼ +mile N. There is a good modern inn and many pretty cottages, and folk in +search of rest and quiet might journey farther and find less suitable +retirement. The nearest church is at Langleybury (<i><a href="#Langleybury">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Ickleford" id="Ickleford"></a><span class="smcap">Ickleford</span>, formerly Ickleton, is a village on the Roman +Icknield Way, which at this spot fords the little river Hiz; hence its +name. It is 2 miles N. from Hitchin. The church was restored in 1860; +but portions of the ancient fabric have been carefully retained, and a +small chapel added to the chancel. The tower is Norman, as are also part +of the nave arcade and the S. doorway. The chancel arch, pointed, is +finely carved; the stairs to the rood-loft still remain; there is a +piscina in the chancel. Note brass to Thomas Somer and his wife (<i>circa</i> +1400). S. from the church is <i>Ickleford Manor</i>, in a small park, for +some years the residence of Commander H. C. Dudley Ryder, R.N. It is not +of historic interest.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>[Pg 134]</span><a name="Ippollitts" id="Ippollitts"></a><span class="smcap">Ippollitts</span> or St. Ippolitts (2 miles S.E. from Hitchin) was +formerly called Hippolits, Eppalets or Pallets, according to the taste +of the speaker. It was thought by Norden to owe its name to Hippolits, a +supposed Saint, who was very skilful in the treatment of horses. After +the Saint’s death a shrine was placed to his honour in the parish +church, and to this shrine near the high altar divers persons brought +their ailing steeds to be healed by the attendant priest with the help +of relics of the Saint. The relics were of efficacy commensurate with +the gifts of those who desired the Saint’s blessing! “The horses,” says +one writer, “were brought out of the North Street, through the North +Gate, and the North Door of the Church, which was boarded on purpose to +bring up the horses to the Altar.” The church was restored in 1878; it +is of flint and rubble, and is now chiefly Perp. and Dec. with a few +older portions. Note (1) ambry and double piscina in the chancel; (2) +brass in N. transept to Robert Poydres (d. 1401); (3) brasses in +chancel, with effigies, to the Hughes family, one of whom, Alice, was +daughter of Thomas Bybsworth, “an ancient dweller in this parish”; she +died 1594. There is a tumulus about 1 mile S.</p> + +<p><a name="Kelshall" id="Kelshall"></a><span class="smcap">Kelshall</span> (2½ miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) has a +restored, but interesting church, dedicated to St. Faith, partly Perp. +and partly Dec. Over the S. porch is a small chamber, and in the N. +aisle is a recess, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a>[Pg 135]</span>the nature of which is not quite understood, but it +was probably used for the safe-keeping of banner-staves, crosses and +other pre-Reformation ornaments. There is a brass with two effigies to +“Rychard Adane and Maryon his Wyff” (d. 1400 and 1435 respectively). In +the churchyard is an old sundial on the shaft of a stone cross. John +Janeway, a young divine of astonishing spirituality, whose <i>Life</i>, by +his brother James, was subsequently prefaced by Robert Hall, was buried +here in 1657: Richard Baxter was one of his admirers. The Manor of +<i>Chelesell</i> was the property of the Abbot of Ely at the time of the +Conquest, having been given to that ancient foundation by the father of +Edward the Confessor.</p> + +<p><i>Kensworth</i> was transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897.</p> + +<p><a name="Kimpton" id="Kimpton"></a><span class="smcap">Kimpton</span> (about 2¾ miles N. from Wheathampstead Station) lies +between the hills that lead N. to Whitwell and S.E. to Ayot St. +Lawrence. The village is very ancient, and was called <i>Kimeton</i> in Saxon +days. The church, a little N. from the centre of the village, has been +much restored: the N. aisle was added in 1861; the tower and the N. +porch (over which is a parvise, as at Kelshall) were restored in 1887-8; +the chancel in 1890, when the reredos was added. The building is E.E. +Note the finely carved oak screen separating the S. aisle from the Dacre +Chapel, formerly the rood screen, the piscina in the chapel itself, and +the stained glass in the E. window to Thomas, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>[Pg 136]</span>twenty-second Baron Dacre +(d. 1890), to whom the reredos is also a memorial. <i>Kimpton Hoo</i>, in a +beautiful park of about 250 acres, is 1 mile N.E. from the village. It +is the seat of Viscount Hampden. Pretty walks may be taken E. <i>viâ</i> +Kimpton Mill to Codicote, N. to Bendish and Whitwell, W. to Peter’s +Green, or S. to Lamer Park.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">King’s Langley</span> is a large and interesting village. The river +Gade flows between the main street and the station, <a name="cm10a" id="cm10a"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr10a" +title="Original reads 'L.&S.W.R.'">L.&N.W.R.</a> Paper and +straw plait are both made largely. The village owes its name to the fact +that Henry III. built a palace on a spot still marked by a few fragments +of ruin a little W. from the church, and the royal manor became known as +Langley Regis, whereas the Langley on the E. side of the river belonged +to the Abbey of St. Albans, and was called Abbot’s Langley (<i><a href="#AbbotsLangley">q.v.</a></i>). +Edmund de Langley, fifth son of Edward III., was born in this palace in +1344. He became Duke of York, Earl of Cambridge and Lord Tivedale, and +married Isabel, a younger daughter of Don Pedro of Castile. In 1392 +Richard II., with his first Queen, Anne of Bohemia, and many bishops, +earls, lords and ladies, kept Christmas at King’s Langley Palace.</p> + +<p>Near the palace was founded, by one Roger Helle, a priory of Dominican +monks, which was enriched by Edward II. and several successive monarchs. +The body of Piers Gaveston was brought from Oxford and buried in the +church of this priory in 1315—he was beheaded <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>[Pg 137]</span>on Blacklow Hill in +1312—and what was then believed to be the body of Richard II. was +brought to the same spot in 1400 for temporary sepulture. The priory was +dissolved, like most priories, in the days of Henry VIII.; but it was +restored by Mary. It was finally suppressed soon after the accession of +Elizabeth. The church, at the S.E. extremity of the village street, is a +Perp. structure of flint and Totternhoe stone; the W. tower is embattled +and has an angle turret. It has been partially restored. On the N. side +of the chancel stood formerly the tomb of Edmund de Langley and Isabel +of Castile (both mentioned above) which was brought from the priory +church at the Dissolution; it is now in the chapel at the end of the N. +aisle. There is, I believe, no absolute proof that this is the tomb of +Edmund and Isabel, but the evidence that it is so is very strong. +Chauncy, two centuries back, wrote: “On the north side of the chancel +there is a Monument raised about five foot, with the Arms of France and +England, with three Labels upon it, also the Arms of Peter, King of +Castile and Leons, by which Coats it seems to be the Tomb where Edmond +de Langley, the Fifth Son of Edward III. and Isabel his Wife, one of the +Daughters of Don Pedro, King of Castile, was [were] interr’d”. During +the removal of the tomb to its present position the bones of a male and +two females were discovered; they are presumably those of Edmund and +Isabel, and of Anne Mortimer, the wife of Edmund’s second son, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>[Pg 138]</span>Richard, +Earl of Cambridge. The tomb is covered by a slab 7 feet 3 inches long; +the sides are embossed with Plantagenet shields within cusps. Note the +beautifully carved open screen between chapel and chancel, and the +reredos, partly of marble, erected in 1877. The oaken pulpit is Perp. +There are several other monuments: (1) to Hon. Sir W. Glascocke of +Aldamhowe, Kt., Admiralty Judge in Ireland under Charles II. (d. 1688); +(2) brass to John Carter, “late of Gifres” (d. 1588); the inscription +states that he had two wives, that the first bore him four sons and five +daughters and the second five sons and four daughters; (3) brass to +William Carter and Alice his wife, 1528.</p> + +<p>Sir John Evans, in 1862, found an almond-shaped river-drift flint +implement on a heap of stones in this neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">King’s Walden</span> (about 5 miles S.W. from Hitchin) has an ancient +church, carefully restored in 1868. It stands in the park of <i>The Bury</i>, +a large mansion, Elizabethan in style. The embattled tower has masonry +probably older than fourteenth century, and much of the nave arcade is +Norman. Note the sculptured capitals of pillars, curiously similar to +those at Old Shoreham. The chancel arch is E. Perp.; probably +substituting its E.E. predecessor on very close lines; the corbels bear +busts thought to resemble Henry VI. and Margaret of Anjou. In the +chancel are a double piscina, and two E.E. lancet windows. The chancel +screen is a really wonderful piece of work, in excellent +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>[Pg 139]</span>preservation. In the N. aisle is an ambry, and in the S. aisle a sedile +and two piscinæ, and on the N. side another ambry. The font stands at +the E. end of S. aisle, formerly the Chapel of the Virgin Mary.</p> + +<p><i>Kinsbourne Green</i> is on the Bedfordshire border, 2 miles N.E. from +Harpenden. The Kennels of the Hertfordshire Hunt are here. The hamlet is +close to Luton Hoo Park.</p> + +<p><i>Kitter’s Green</i> is a hamlet 1 mile S.E. from King’s Langley Station +(L.&N.W.R.). Abbot’s Langley old church (<i><a href="#AbbotsLangley">q.v.</a></i>) is ½ mile N.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo017" name="illo017"></a> + <img src="images/illo017.png" + alt="KNEBWORTH PARK" + title="KNEBWORTH PARK" + height="347" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">KNEBWORTH PARK</p> +</div> + +<p>KNEBWORTH, famous as the home of Bulwer Lytton, lies on high ground 1 +mile W. from the station (G.N.R.). The village is small, and in itself +of little interest; it was formerly called Chenepeworde, and +Knebbeworth. It is, however, ancient, and was valued in <i>Domesday Book</i>.</p> + +<p>Sir Thomas Bouchier, K.G., who fought for the Earl of Richmond at +Bosworth Field, sold the manor of Knebbeworth to Robert Lytton, Esq., +Keeper of the Wardrobe to Henry VII., whose son William was buried in +this parish. This Sir Robert began to erect a huge Tudor mansion on the +site of a fortress which had stood since the days of the Conquest; it +took several generations to complete it. The present house is the result +of the work of demolition and reconstruction in the days of the +novelist’s mother, and of the enlarging of 1883, when the S. wing and +entrance were added; it is pseudo-Gothic. The castellated parapet, +cupola-topped <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>[Pg 140]</span>turrets, griffins upon pinnacles and many mullioned +windows are noticeable features from the grounds. Within, the finest +sight is the grand old banqueting hall, with its gallery for minstrels, +its Elizabethan oak-screen, and wainscots by Inigo Jones. Around, on all +sides, are suits of armour, some dating from the days of Henry VII. The +room is associated with memories of Elizabeth, who was sometimes +entertained at Knebworth by Sir Rowland Lytton, whom she knighted; he +was buried in the chancel of the little church in the park (see below) +in 1582. The room in which Elizabeth slept on these occasions is still +shown as “Queen Elizabeth’s Chamber,” and contains a finely carved +over-mantel (oak) and an oaken bedstead of colossal proportions. Among +the distinguished guests so often entertained here by Bulwer Lytton were +Dickens, Forster and Jerrold.</p> + +<p>The grounds are nearly perfect, art and nature seaming to strive to +out-do one another. Well-kept lawns are figured by flower-beds of all +shapes and sizes; the rosery is very large; the great variety of +evergreens imparts every hue and shade to the extensive walks stretching +W. from the house. The lawns are divided here and there by stone +balustrades and overlooked by statues of classical and modern figures. +There are many nooks, pleasure houses and alcoves. A long avenue of +limes leads to the lake.</p> + +<p>The church, a little N. from the house, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a>[Pg 141]</span>is approached through lodge +gates. It is for the most part E.E. The oaken pulpit is octagonal; the +finely carved panels represent scenes in the life of Christ, one of them +bears the date 1567. At the N. side of the chancel, which has a piscina, +is the Lytton Chapel, “a little Chapel or Burying Place, built by the +Family of the Lyttons”. Among the members of the family buried in the +chapel were (1) Dame Judith Barrington, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton, +and wife to Sir Thomas Barrington of Hatfield Broad Oak (d. 1657); (2) +Sir William Lytton, Kt. (d. 1660); (3) Sir Rowland Lytton, Kt. (d. +1674). To the Sir Rowland Lytton who died in 1582 (see above) there is a +fine brass with effigy, which also commemorates his wives Margaret and +Anne, and his three children. There are other memorials both in the +church and Lytton Chapel, among which note (1) brass to Simon Bache, +Treasurer of the Household to Henry V. and Canon of St. Paul’s (d. +1414); (2) brass to John Hotoft, who filled the same office in the +Household of Henry VI. (d. <i>circa</i> 1430). This brass formerly showed +effigies of Hotoft in armour with his wife beside him. Note also, near +the S. porch, two headstones with interesting inscriptions to servants +of the Lytton family, and close by, in the park, the mausoleum erected +by the mother of the novelist, who was buried within its walls. The +epitaph to her memory on the exterior was written by her son. Passing +out at the lodge gates we may turn left and reach a pretty dip, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>[Pg 142]</span>from +whence a walk of 3 miles N. over open country leads to Stevenage.</p> + +<p><i>Knebworth Green</i> skirts the S. side of the park.</p> + +<p><i>Langley</i>, a hamlet on the Hatfield-Hitchin road, is 2 miles S.W. from +Stevenage Station (G.N.R.). Langley Bottom is a few minutes’ walk N.</p> + +<p><a name="Langleybury" id="Langleybury"></a><i>Langleybury</i> (1 mile S. from King’s Langley Station, L.&N.W.R.) is +practically part and parcel of Hunton Bridge, the church standing W. and +the village E. of the main road from Watford to Hemel Hempstead. The +church is modern, a Gothic structure; on the S. is a good lich-gate. +Close to the S. porch is the large cross of Sicilian marble, by the +Florentine sculptor Romanelli, to the memory of the late W. J. Loyd, at +whose expense the church was erected. The walk from Langleybury to +Buck’s Hill (W.), by way of West Wood, leads through some lovely bits of +scenery, and should on no account be omitted. At the outset the confines +of Grove Park are on the left and the road dips up and down as the woods +are passed, and is shaded by fine beeches in many spots.</p> + +<p><a name="Layston" id="Layston"></a><i>Layston</i> was a village in Saxon times, but nothing now remains save the +ruins of the church, still almost intact, at the meeting of two lanes, 1 +mile N.E. from Buntingford. It is a flint structure, E.E. and Perp. The +S. porch is in part demolished. There are monuments to the Crowch family +of seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>[Pg 143]</span><a name="Lea" id="Lea"></a><span class="smcap">Lea</span>, river. (See Introduction, <a href="#Rivers">Section II</a>.)</p> + +<p><a name="Leavesden" id="Leavesden"></a><span class="smcap">Leavesden</span> (about 2½ miles N. from Watford) is a village in the +pretty district between Grove Park and Bricket Wood. The ecclesiastical +parish was formed seventy years ago from the parishes of Watford and St. +Albans. The huge brick building on high ground a little N. is the +Metropolitan District Asylum for Idiots; it was erected in 1869. The +church dates only from the formation of the parish and is situated at +Garston, 1 mile E. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott and is E.E. <i>The +Grove</i>, a large mansion of red brick, was erected in 1760 by one of the +Villiers family, but has been restored and altered. The house contains a +part of the pictures collected by Clarendon; comprising portraits by +Vandyck, Lely, C. Janssens, Zucchero, Van Somer, Kneller, Hogarth, etc. +The park is extensive and beautiful.</p> + +<p><a name="Lemsford" id="Lemsford"></a><span class="smcap">Lemsford</span> is another modern ecclesiastical parish, formed sixty +years ago. It is nearly 3 miles N. from Hatfield, on the S.E. side of +<i>Brocket Hall Park</i>. It is widely known for its large mill on the river +Lea. The church, erected in 1859 as a memorial to the sixth Earl Cowper, +is E.E. and Dec., with a good E. window, also to the memory of the earl. +The tower (W.) is lofty and embattled.</p> + +<p><i>Letchmore Heath</i> (1½ mile S.W. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is a small +village.</p> + +<p><i>Letchworth</i> (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin) has a small Perp. church, +containing a curious old brass to Thomas Wyrley, an early Rector (d. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>[Pg 144]</span>1475). The effigy represents him with a heart in his hands. Another +brass, much defaced, dates from <i>circa</i> 1400; it is to William Overbury +and Isabel his wife. The village, which almost adjoins that of Willian +(<i><a href="#Willian">q.v.</a></i>), is ancient, and was once the property of Robert Gernon, a +Norman warrior who fought at Hastings. There was a church at <i>Leceworth</i> +at least as early as <i>temp.</i> Henry I., for during the reign of that +monarch it was given “with all its appurtenances and twelve acres of +land” to the monastery at St. Albans. <i>Letchworth Hall</i>, now a manor +house containing some good carved oak, was built by Sir William Lytton +(<i>circa</i> 1620), and still bears on the S. front the arms of that family.</p> + +<p><i>Letty Green</i> is close to Cole Green Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Levens Green</i> (1 mile S. from Great Munden) has a tiny chapel-of-ease +erected in 1893. The nearest station is Standon, G.E.R., 2½ miles E., +between which and the hamlet lies the Old North Road.</p> + +<p><a name="Leverstock" id="Leverstock"></a><span class="smcap">Leverstock Green</span> (1½ mile S.E. from Hemel Hempstead Station, +M.R.) is in a pleasantly diversified district, at the junction of the +roads from St. Albans and Abbot’s Langley. It has a modern church, +Gothic in style, erected just before the district was constituted an +ecclesiastical parish in 1850.</p> + +<p><i>Ley Green</i> is a hamlet 1 mile N. from King’s Walden Church, and about 4 +miles S.W. from Hitchin. It is on high ground.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>[Pg 145]</span><a name="Lilley" id="Lilley"></a><span class="smcap">Lilley</span>, a village on the Bedfordshire border, is 4 miles N.E. +from Luton (Beds). It was formerly called Lindley, and Lilly Hoo, and +the old manor, like so many others, was given to a Norman (Goisfride de +Bech) for services rendered at Hastings. The church is of ancient +foundation, but was rebuilt, in E. Dec. style, in 1870-71. Several old +memorials are still preserved, notably those to the Docwra family, early +seventeenth century. <i>Putteridge Bury</i> (1 mile S.) is in the centre of a +park of 450 acres; on or near the site of the house built by Thomas +Docwra, J.P. and High Sheriff of Herts, who died there in 1602. The +present mansion dates from the beginning of last century.</p> + +<p><i>Little Heath</i> is on the Middlesex border, 1 mile N.E. from Potter’s Bar +Station. The Dec. church, just off the Barnet-Hatfield road, is new.</p> + +<p><a name="LondonColney" id="LondonColney"></a><span class="smcap">London Colney</span>, a village on the main road from Barnet to St. +Albans, is on the river Colne. The nearest station is that of the G.N.R. +at St. Albans, 2¼ miles N.W. The church, built by the third Earl of +Hardwicke in 1825, is a plain brick structure of Gothic character. Half +a mile E. is <i>Tittenhanger Park</i>, a large brick mansion with tiled roof +and dormer windows, built by Sir Henry Blount in 1654. The manor had +belonged to the Abbots of St. Albans, who had a residence on the same +spot, commenced during the abbacy of John de la Moote and completed +during <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>[Pg 146]</span>that of John Wheathampsted. Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon +stayed here during the “sweatinge sicknesse” (1528).</p> + +<p><i>Long Lane</i> is a hamlet near the river Chess, 1½ mile S.W. from +Rickmansworth.</p> + +<p><a name="LongMarston" id="LongMarston"></a><i>Long Marston</i>, 1 mile N. from the Aylesbury Canal, is a village and +ecclesiastical parish in the extreme W. of the county. The nearest +station is Marston Gate, 1 mile N. The old church, a small Dec. +structure, was pulled down twenty years ago with the exception of the +tower, which stands in the disused graveyard. The new building, +adjoining the present burial ground, is Gothic, and contains some +portions of the old structure, and its two piscinæ.</p> + +<p><i>Lower Green.</i> (See <a href="#Tewin">Tewin</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Ludwick Hyde</i> is in the parish of Hatfield, 3 miles N.E. from that +town.</p> + +<p><i>Luffenhall</i>, a little hamlet, is in the hollow between Weston and +Cottered, 5 miles W. from Buntingford Station. The district is one of +winding lanes and field footpaths so characteristic of the county.</p> + +<p><i>Lye End</i>, 2 miles S. from Sandon Church, is a hamlet lying W. from the +Buntingford-Royston road.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo018" name="illo018"></a> + <img src="images/illo018.jpg" + alt="OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END" + title="OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END" + height="405" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">OLD COTTAGES NEAR MACKERY END</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mackery End</span>, 1½ mile N.W. from Wheathampstead Station, G.N.R., +is close to Batford and Pickford mills on the river Lea. Charles and +Mary Lamb had talked about the place “all their lives” and the essay by +the former entitled “Mackery End in Hertfordshire” need only be named +here. The place, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>[Pg 147]</span>as Lamb mentions, was also called Mackarel End. John +Wheathampsted, who became thirty-third Abbot of St. Albans in 1420, was +the son of Hugh Bostok or Bostock of the village from which he took his +name; his mother was the daughter of Thomas Makery, “Lord of Makeyrend”.</p> + +<p><i>Mangrove</i> is a hamlet, partly in Offley and partly in Lilley parishes; +Mangrove Green is on the S. outskirts of Putteridge Bury Park, on the +Bedfordshire border. The nearest station to the latter is Luton (Beds).</p> + +<p><i>Maple Cross</i>, a hamlet 2½ miles S.W. from Rickmansworth, is near the +river Chess. It lies between Mill End and West Hyde, on the road to +Uxbridge.</p> + +<p><a name="Maran" id="Maran"></a><span class="smcap">Maran</span>, or <span class="smcap">Mimram</span>, river. (See <a href="#Rivers">Introduction</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Marford</i>, <i>Old</i> and <i>New</i>, are hamlets on the river Lea. The latter +adjoins the E. side of Wheathampstead village; the former lies ¼ mile +farther E.; the cress-beds, the hand-bridge over the river, and some +dilapidated cottages render it a picturesque spot. On the opposite side +of the road from Hatfield to Wheathampstead lies The Devil’s Dyke, a +long, narrow gorge most beautifully wooded. It is a favourite haunt of +the nightingale, as the writer can testify.</p> + +<p><a name="MarkyateSt" id="MarkyateSt"></a><span class="smcap">Market</span> or <span class="smcap">Markyate Street</span> (3½ miles S.W. from Luton, +Beds) is a village on the high road from St. Albans to Dunstable. The +church, a little N. from the village, in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>[Pg 148]</span>Cell Park, is small and +uninteresting, with a chancel added in 1892. The mansion called Markyate +Cell, a little farther N., is old, and occupies the site of the old +Benedictine nunnery built by Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth Abbot of St. +Albans, at the instigation of Roger the Monk, the church of which was +consecrated in 1145. Cowper the poet was at school in the village, at +the house of Dr. Pitman.</p> + +<p><a name="Marlowes" id="Marlowes"></a><span class="smcap">Marlowes</span> is a suburb of Hemel Hempstead (<i><a href="#HemelHempstead">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Marsh Moor</i> lies between Hatfield Park and Mimms Park. It is a hamlet +in the parish of North Mimms, 2 miles S. from Hatfield.</p> + +<p><i>Marston Gate</i> is little more than the station (L.&N.W.R.) for Long +Marston, 1 mile S. It is nearly the extreme W. point of the county.</p> + +<p><i>Mayden Croft</i>, or Maiden Croft, is near the source of the river Hiz, +with the hamlet of Gosmore adjoining (S.E.). Some remains of a moat may +be traced, which are supposed to mark the site of a nunnery. The manor +is ancient; in the time of Edward III. it belonged to Sir Robert Nevill, +Kt.</p> + +<p><a name="Meesdon" id="Meesdon"></a><span class="smcap">Meesdon</span> (6½ miles N.E. from Buntingford) has a very ancient +flint church, probably erected in the thirteenth century, but restored +in 1877. The S. porch is Jacobean. The pavement of the Sacrarium is a +mosaic of many coloured, vitrified tiles; it is almost unique in the +county and is undoubtedly of great age. There is also in the chancel a +curious monument and inscription to Robert Young, gent. (d. 1626). Most +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>[Pg 149]</span>of the population are to be found at Meesdon Green, ½ mile W. from the +church.</p> + +<p>On <i>Metley Hill</i>, between the Icknield Way and the village of +Wallington, may be seen Bush Barrow, one of the many ancient mounds in +the county concerning which so little is known.</p> + +<p><i>Micklefield Green</i> (½ mile E. from Sarratt Church) is near the river +Chess and the Bucks border. The nearest station is Chorley Wood (Met. +R.) 2 miles S.W. The district is varied and undulating.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mill End</span> (1 mile S.W. from Rickmansworth) is on the Middlesex +border, close to the river Colne. The church (modern) is late Dec. in +style, and has several good stained windows. The village and parish were +only formed in 1875. There is also a hamlet of this name 1½ mile S.W. +from Buckland, on the Royston road.</p> + +<p><i>Mill Green</i>, at the N. end of Hatfield Park, is a pretty hamlet on the +Lea, near the old paper mill.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mimms, North</span> (3 miles N.W. from Potter’s Bar Station, G.N.R.), +is in one of the prettiest districts in the county, although so close to +Middlesex. The church and parsonage are in the park, ½ mile from the +village. Dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, the church is Dec., unusually +pure in style. It is said to have been built by Sir Hugh de Magneville +(<i>temp.</i> Stephen); I should think it more probable that Geoffrey de +Magneville, then Lord of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>[Pg 150]</span>Manor, was the real founder, as stated by +Chauncy. However this may be, the structure is now almost wholly of +later date. The monuments and brasses are numerous and very interesting; +several of the latter, now in the chancel, were moved from their +original positions on the floor during the restoration sixty years ago. +Among them we may note (1) large black marble monument in chancel +surmounted by a figure of justice, to John Lord Somers, Baron of Evesham +(d. 1716); (2) altar tomb in N. aisle, with Elizabethan effigy, to a +Derbyshire family named Beresford; the inscription is only in part +decipherable; (3) mutilated brass to Sir Robert Knolles (d. 14—), and +to Elizabeth his wife (d. 1458); (4) brass to Sir Henry Covert (d. +1488); (5) fine old brass to Richard Boteler and Martha (Olyff) his wife +(<i>circa</i> 1560); (6) brass, probably of Flemish workmanship, thought to +be a memorial to William Kesteven, vicar (d. 1361). This effigy is +closely described in Murray. “It is apparently Flemish, and resembles in +style that of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans. He is vested in a chasuble +and stole, has a chalice on his breast, and over him is a rich canopy, +with, on the dexter side, St. Peter, and underneath SS. John the +Evangelist and Bartholomew, and in corresponding places on the sinister +SS. Paul, James the Great, and Andrew, with their respective emblems. +Above is the Almighty holding the soul of the deceased; at the sides are +two angels swinging censers.” Separated <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a>[Pg 151]</span>from the chancel by an oaken +screen is the chantry-chapel of St. Catherine, dating from early +fourteenth century.</p> + +<p><i>North Mimms Park</i> surrounds the fine Jacobean manor house of red brick, +recently in part restored, but originally built about 1600 by Sir Ralph +Coningsby; it is very extensive and can show some good carving, and a +chimney-piece dating from sixteenth century. E. from this park is +<i>Potterels</i>, a modern house standing in another but smaller park, and E. +again from Potterels is the more famous <i>Brookman’s Park</i>, where, in +1682, Andrew Fountaine erected the mansion soon afterwards purchased by +the great Lord Somers who died here in 1716. The house was completely +burnt down thirty years ago and has only in part been rebuilt. The +further stretch of park adjoining Brookman’s on the S. is <i>Gubbins</i>, or +more correctly <i>Gobions</i>, where formerly stood the old manor house in +which Sir Thomas More lived awhile with his family. The walks in each of +these parks are very fine, and most beautifully wooded; they command +distant views in many directions, and, in the autumn, are a perfect +study in colour. No London cyclist should fail to visit this picturesque +and interesting neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Mimms, South</span>, recently included in the administrative county of +Herts, has a restored, E. Perp. church, with fine massive W. tower. The +Frowyk chantry, at E. end of N. aisle, contains a very ancient tomb with +recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, under a richly <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a>[Pg 152]</span>designed canopy. +The knight was a Frowyk, and there are also some mutilated brasses to +this family. The village is prettily situated on rising ground, 1½ mile +W. from Potter’s Bar Station, G.N.R. (Middlesex).</p> + +<p><i>Moneybury Hill</i> is on the Bucks border, close to the Bridgewater +Column, 2 miles S.W. from Tring Station.</p> + +<p><i>Moor Green</i> (3 miles W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet +in Ardeley parish.</p> + +<p><i>Morrell Green</i> is a hamlet 2 miles E. from Barkway on the Essex border. +The nearest station is Buntingford, nearly 6 miles S.E.</p> + +<p><i>Mortgrove</i>, on the Beds border, is little more than a modern house, 1½ +mile S. from Hexton.</p> + +<p><i>Munches Green</i> lies in the centre of that quiet district of villages +and hamlets which stretches between the G.N.R. and G.E.R. It is a hamlet +a little S.E. from <i>Ardeley Bury</i> and nearly 4 miles W. from Westmill +Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Munden, Great</span>, formerly Mundon Furnival, from Gerrard de +Furnival, who was Lord of the Manor in the time of Richard I., is a +village 2 miles W. from Braughing Station, G.E.R. There is a Norman +doorway on the N. side of the church, and a small Perp. reredos which +was discovered during restoration in 1865. There is a brass in the +chancel to John Lightfoot, Canon of Ely (d. 1675). The hamlet of Nasty, +a little N.E. from the church, now takes Munden Furnival as its +alternative <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>[Pg 153]</span>name, but the older historians give that title to the +district around the parish church.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Munden, Little</span>, or Munden Frewell, is 2¼ miles S.W. from the +above, and 4 miles W. from Standon Station, G.E.R. The church, +conspicuously placed on the hill, dates from the thirteenth century; it +was restored in 1866-68. It is a structure of many parts, consisting of +nave of three bays, chancel, N. chapel, N. aisle, N. and S. porches, and +W. tower. Note the two altar tombs beneath the chancel arcade, at the S. +side of the chapel, each supporting the stone effigies of a male and +female, presumably man and wife. They bear no inscriptions, but from the +arms and shields figured on one of them it is conjectured to be the tomb +of Sir John Thornbury, Kt., and his lady; whilst the other is probably +that of his son Philip Thornbury and his wife: the former dates from +about 1340-50. Early in the fourteenth century the manor belonged to a +Knight named Frewell or de Freville, hence the old adjunct of the +village. <i>Rowney Abbey</i>, now a modern mansion, takes its name from +Rowenea Priory, founded by Conan, Duke of Brittany, about 1164, and +occupied for several generations by a Benedictine prioress and nuns. At +Munden Street, or Dane End, ¼ mile S. from Little Munden, were formerly +two or three large tumuli, long since levelled.</p> + +<p><i>Nash Mills</i>, on the river Gade, is a hamlet in the parish of Apsley +End, 2 miles S. from Hemel Hempstead. The House was the seat of Sir John +Evans, K.C.B., F.R.S., etc., the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>[Pg 154]</span>great archæologist, who had a rich +collection of coins, prehistoric flints, implements, etc., some of which +were discovered in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><a name="Nettleden" id="Nettleden"></a><i>Nettleden</i> was formerly in Bucks, but was transferred to Herts a few +years ago. The village is beautifully situated at the foot of a wooded +hill, at the meeting of the roads from Great Gaddesden and Little +Gaddesden. The small parish church is a Perp. structure of stone, with a +N. porch; it was partly rebuilt by the last Duke of Bridgewater, and was +restored in 1887. Note the carved oak pulpit, which, like that in Little +Gaddesden Church, was the gift of Lady Marian Alford (d. 1888). Sir John +Cotton, Vice-Chamberlain to Edward VI., was buried here. The nearest +station is Berkhampstead, L.&N.W.R., 2½ miles S.W.</p> + +<p><i>New Mill</i> is 1 mile N. from Tring, between the hamlets of Little Tring +and Tring Grove. The famous reservoirs, often the resting-place of rare +water-fowl, are within a short walk.</p> + +<p><i>Newgate Street</i>, a small hamlet in Hatfield parish, is, however, 6 +miles S.E. from that town. It is in a prettily wooded district, close to +<i>Ponsbourne Park</i>.</p> + +<p><a name="Newnham" id="Newnham"></a><span class="smcap">Newnham</span> (2½ miles N. from Baldock) is a village lying on high +ground, with an E.E. battlemented church on a little knoll above a +brook. It consists of chancel, nave of four bays with clerestory, S. +aisle and porch, and W. tower. The interior can show little of interest, +but there are brasses, (1) on chancel floor, to Sir William Dyer, Bart. +(d. 1680); (2) to a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>[Pg 155]</span>family, the man in civic costume (<i>circa</i> 1490); +(3) to Joan, wife of James Dowman (d. 1607), and her eight children.</p> + +<p><i>Newsell</i>, a hamlet 1 mile N. from Barkway, lies a little W. from the +Cambridge Road. The nearest station is Royston, G.N.R., 3½ miles N.W. +Newsell Park is a modern mansion S. from the hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>No Man’s Land</i> is a large tract of common, partly covered by furze, +stretching left from the road between Sandridge and Wheathampstead. Some +years ago a farmer close by collected quite a museum of stuffed birds, +etc., shot in the neighbourhood, which many persons visited, but I +understand the collection is now dispersed.</p> + +<p>In 1884 Sir John Evans showed to Mr. W. G. Smith “a good white ovate +palæolithic implement,” one of two found on No Man’s Land Common. In +December, 1886, Mr. Smith visited the gravel pits there and found a +somewhat similar implement <i>in situ</i>; this latter is engraved in his +<i>Man the Primæval Savage</i>. At the same time Mr. Smith found two +neolithic celts on the common.</p> + +<p><i>Nobland Green</i> (1¼ mile N.W. from Widford Station, G.E.R.) is little +more than a farm and a few cottages.</p> + +<p><a name="Northaw" id="Northaw"></a><span class="smcap">Northaw</span> (2 miles E. from Potter’s Bar Station, G.N.R.) is a +village on the Middlesex border, near the source of the river Colne, and +a place of considerable interest. In the wood N. from the village there +lived a hermit named <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>[Pg 156]</span>Sigar, the subject of some monkish legends. He +lived about the time of Henry I., and was buried beside Roger the Monk +(see <a href="#MarkyateSt">Markyate Street</a>) in the S. aisle of the Baptistery of St. Alban’s +Abbey. There was originally a small church close to the village, E.E. or +perhaps late Norman; this was replaced by the cruciform church of St. +Thomas Becket, a pseudo-Perp. structure, destroyed by fire in 1881; the +present cruciform building of Ancaster stone is Dec. with a conspicuous +W. tower carrying four pinnacles. Note the piscina, three sedilia and +credence table in chancel; also the finely carved font of Ancaster +stone, on marble pillars, presented by the children of the parish. There +are several memorial windows, of only local interest; but the pulpit and +reredos are both good, the former showing the four Evangelists in +canopied recesses. Unfortunately, only a portion of the old registers +were saved from the fire of 1881.</p> + +<p><a name="Northchurch" id="Northchurch"></a><span class="smcap">Northchurch</span>, or Berkhampstead St. Mary, forms one long street +with Great Berkhampstead, but is a separate village, 1 mile W. from +Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R. The cruciform church is Dec.; it stands +in a small graveyard close to the high road to Tring. The most curious +memorial is the brass near the porch to Peter the Wild Boy, who was +found wild in a forest in Hanover in 1725 and brought to England at the +desire of Queen Caroline. He lived at a farm at Broadway (<i><a href="#Broadway">q.v.</a></i>) and +died in 1785. There is also a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>[Pg 157]</span>curious sentence about this church in +Chauncy: “Henry Axtil, a rich Man starved himself, and was buried here +April 12, 1625, 1 Car. I.” The church was entirely restored in 1883, +when the present N. aisle was added.</p> + +<p><i>Northfield</i>, a small hamlet, is a little S. from Ivinghoe (Bucks).</p> + +<p><a name="Norton" id="Norton"></a><span class="smcap">Norton</span>, near the tiny river Ivel and the Roman Icknield Way, is +1 mile W. from Baldock. The large building on the hill-top close by is +the Three Counties Asylum. The manor belonged to the Abbot of St. Albans +at the time of the Conquest; and in the year 1260 Roger de Norton, who +took his name from this village, became the twenty-fourth abbot of that +monastery. The church, E.E., is of great antiquity, some parts of it +having been little altered; it is of flint, and stands at the N.E. end +of the village. It contains two or three old memorials, but none of +historic interest. A pretty walk from the church leads through Norton +Bury and beside the Ivel to Radwell Mill.</p> + +<p><i>Norton Green</i>, between Knebworth Park and Stevenage, is ½ mile W. from +the Great North Road. It is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Nup End</i> (1½ mile W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is almost one with +Knebworth Green. Codicote church is 1 mile S.W.</p> + +<p><i>Nuthampstead</i> (about 5 miles N.E. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) is +a large hamlet on the Essex border. The parish churches of Barkway (W.), +Anstey (S.W.), and Meesdon (S.E.) may all be reached within a short +walk.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a>[Pg 158]</span><a name="Offley" id="Offley"></a><span class="smcap">Offley</span> or <span class="smcap">Offley St. Leger</span> (3 miles S.W. from +Hitchin) is a village at the meeting of the ways from Hitchin, Temple +Dinsley, and Lilley. It owes its name to Offa, King of the Mercians, who +had a palace here, as we learn from his life by Matthew Paris, and its +adjunct to the St. Legiers, who became Lords of the Manor soon after the +Conquest. Miss Hester Salusbury, who became Mrs. Thrale, and afterwards +Mrs. Piozzi, used as a child to visit at <i>Offley Place</i>, in the park +close to the church. The old mansion was built by Sir Richard Spencer in +1600, and in part rebuilt early last century, when its style was changed +from Jacobean to a form of Gothic.</p> + +<p>The church (restored Perp.) stands in the park, close to the road. Note +(1) monument in chancel to Sir H. Penrice, Kt. (d. 1752); a figure of +Truth standing on a sarcophagus of black marble, the whole finely +executed; (2) monument in white marble, by Nollekens, to Sir Thomas +Salusbury, Kt. (d. 1773), and Sarah his wife (d. 1804); (3) brass with +effigy, to John Samwell (d. 1529), and his wives Elizabeth and Joan; (4) +brass to a civilian and his family (<i>circa</i> 1530); (5) well carved Perp. +font.</p> + +<p><i>Offley, Little</i>, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.W. from the above.</p> + +<p><i>Offley Green</i> is 4 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R. The walk +beside <a name="cm11" id="cm11"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr11" +title="Original reads 'Julian's'">Julians</a> Park to Rushden, 1 mile S.W., is very pleasant.</p> + +<p><i>Offley Holes</i> (2½ miles S.W. from Hitchin) is a small hamlet. Offley +Grange, Offley Hoo, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>[Pg 159]</span>Offley Cross and Offley Bottom are all in the +immediate neighbourhood, W. and N.W.</p> + +<p><i>Old Hall Green</i> (1½ mile W. from Standon Station, G.E.R.) lies W. from +the Old North Road. It is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><a name="Oxhey" id="Oxhey"></a><span class="smcap">Oxhey</span> (2 miles S. from Watford) is a hamlet on the Middlesex +border. It has a good modern church, E.E. in style. N. lies <i>Oxhey +Place</i>, on the site of the old home of the Heydon family, rebuilt by Sir +William Bucknall in 1668, and again by Hon. William Bucknall in 1799. +The chapel, close to the old mansions, was spared by both those +renovators, but has since been repeatedly restored. It contains many +interesting monuments, conspicuous among which is that on the S. wall to +Sir James Altham (d. 1617) who had built the chapel on the site of an +earlier structure in 1612. The old judge is represented kneeling in his +robes between two pillars, beneath a canopy of alabaster; behind him is +the effigy of his third wife Helen (Saunderson). Note the carved oak +seventeenth century reredos, occupying the whole of the E. end of the +chapel. It is divided into three compartments by two columns, massive +and twisted, with Corinthian capitals; these support a frieze, with +cornice and pediment. Note also the oak ceiling, and the five Tudor +windows (replaced). <i>Oxhey Hall</i>, N.W. from the chapel, is now a farm; +but can still show the wonderful ceiling of carved oak, in sixteen +panels, which must be very ancient.</p> + +<p><a name="PanshangerPark" id="PanshangerPark"></a>PANSHANGER PARK, Lord Desborough, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a>[Pg 160]</span>K.C.V.O, should be visited by all who +love an historic home surrounded by beautiful scenery. It lies almost +midway between Hatfield and Ware Parks; the house itself is 1½ mile N. +from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. The park is very extensive (about 900 +acres); the river Maran flows through it from W. to S.E., opening into a +lake S. from the house. It is famous for its splendid timber; the +wonderful “Panshanger Oak,” one of the very largest in England, stands +W. from the house.</p> + +<p>Panshanger is not a “correct” structure from an architectural +standpoint; the writer of Murray’s Handbook describes it well as “a +stucco-fronted, semi-castellated Gothic mansion of the Walpole-Wyatt +type”. Most ramblers, however, are not architects, and the grey stone +mansion and its surroundings are, as a whole, as picturesque as they can +well be. The greater part of it was built by Peter, fifth Earl Cowper, +in 1801; but the picture gallery, overlooking the terrace and gardens, +was a later addition. The house was partially burnt in 1855. The older +home of the family stood at Cole Green—then called Colne Green.</p> + +<p>The famous <i>Cowper Collection</i> is largely the result of the taste and +perseverance of the third earl, who resided for some years at Florence. +Only a few of the pictures can be named here: Madonna, by Raphael +(1508); Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo; Mountainous Coast (fishermen in +foreground), by Salvator Rosa; Nativity, by Carlo Dolce; Virgin +Enthroned, by Paul <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a>[Pg 161]</span>Veronese; Third Earl Cowper and His Family; First +Earl Cowper, by Sir Godfrey Kneller; Francis Bacon, by Van Somer; +Turenne, by Rembrandt; Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, by +Janssens. The whole collection is worth careful study. Permission to +view may be obtained when the family are away.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Park Street</span>, a large hamlet with station 1/3 mile W. +(L.&N.W.R.), is on the river Colne, 2 miles S. from St. Albans. The +parish church is at Frogmore (<i><a href="#Frogmore">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Parker’s Green</i> (4 miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a +hamlet adjoining Wood End.</p> + +<p><i>Patient End</i> may be reached from Braughing Station, G.E.R., 4 miles +S.E., the road being more direct than that from Westmill Station, about +the same distance as the crow flies. The hamlet lies between Albury and +Furneaux Pelham.</p> + +<p><i>Patmore Heath</i> is 1 mile S.E. from the above.</p> + +<p><i>Pepperstock</i>, a hamlet on the Beds border, is a little W. from the +Harpenden-Luton road, and close to Luton Hoo Park.</p> + +<p><i>Perry Green</i> (1¼ mile S.E. from Hadham Station, G.E.R.) is a small +scattered hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Peter’s Green</i>, on the Beds border, lies at the meeting of several +roads; the Half Moon and Rising Star with a few cottages comprise the +hamlet. The descent W. towards Chiltern Green Station, M.R., commands a +fine view, looking towards Luton Hoo Park. The several <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>[Pg 162]</span>ways (one is +hardly more than a lane) lead S.E. to Kimpton, S. to Harpenden, N. to +Lawrence End Park, and N.E. to Breachwood Green and Bendish.</p> + +<p><i>Piccotts End</i> is passed when going from Hemel Hempstead to Great +Gaddesden. It is on the river Gade, at the N.E. extremity of Gadesbridge +Park.</p> + +<p><i>Pin Green</i> (1½ mile E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) lies between the +Great North Road and the river Beane.</p> + +<p><a name="Pirton" id="Pirton"></a><span class="smcap">Pirton</span> (3½ miles N.W. from Hitchin) is an ancient village on +the Beds border, said to owe its name to one Peri, who possessed it in +Saxon times. William I. gave it to Ralph de Limesie, or Limesy, who +founded the church and gave the tithes of it to the Abbey of St. Albans. +The site of the castle built by Ralph is thought to be at Toot Hill, W. +from the church, where a moat may be traced. The church was originally +cruciform, but the transepts have long disappeared; the tower, massive +and embattled, still standing between nave and chancel. Restoration has +been carefully carried on recently; the tower was rebuilt in 1877, but +some Norman work may still be traced in its arches. Note (1) monument +and curious inscription to Jane, wife of Thomas Docwra (d. 1645); (2) +double piscina, fourteenth century, in S. wall of chancel.</p> + +<p>Pirton should be visited for the fine old houses in its neighbourhood. +<i>High Down</i>, S. from the church, is Elizabethan, with gables, twisted +chimneys and mullioned windows; it was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>[Pg 163]</span>formerly the home of the +Docwras. <i>Pirton Hall</i>, on a hill N.W. from the village, is also +Elizabethan, and the <i>Rectory Manor House</i> and <i>Hammond’s Farm</i> are both +ancient. In the latter is some fine old carved oak.</p> + +<p><i>Plummers</i> is 1½ mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R. It consists of +a few cottages.</p> + +<p><i>Ponfield</i> lies between Bedwell and Bayfordbury Parks. It is a small +hamlet nearly 2 miles S.E. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><i>Poplar’s Green</i> is on the river Maran, on the W. edge of Panshanger +Park. The old church at Tewin is less than 1 mile N.W. The station is +Cole Green.</p> + +<p><i>Potten End</i> (2 miles N.E. from Berkhampstead Station, L.&N.W.R.) has a +modern chapel-of-ease to Nettleden (1 mile N.). The hamlet is prettily +situated between the rivers Gade and Bulbourne.</p> + +<p><a name="Preston" id="Preston"></a><span class="smcap">Preston</span> (4 miles W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +beautifully situated on high ground. The Church of St. Martin is a small +building a few yards W. from the green, a modern erection; close by is +the Bunyan Chapel, and ½ mile N. is Bunyan’s dell, where the author of +the <i>Pilgrim’s Progress</i> often preached. <i>Temple Dinsley</i>, a manor house +a little E. from the Red Lion, stands on the site of the preceptory of +the Knights Templars, founded by Bernard de Baliol in the reign of +Stephen.</p> + +<p><i>Primrose Hill</i> is a hamlet in King’s Langley parish, ½ mile N. from the +station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><a name="Puckeridge" id="Puckeridge"></a><span class="smcap">Puckeridge</span>, a village on the Old North <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>[Pg 164]</span>Road, nearly 1 mile +S.W. from Braughing Station, G.E.R., was visited by Pepys on more than +one occasion. Here, at the White Hart Inn, the road divides, going left +nearly due N. to Royston and right to Cambridge. The village lies partly +in Standon and partly in Braughing parish. The nearest church is at +Standon, 1 mile S.E., but divine service is conducted in the church +schoolroom.</p> + +<p><i>Puddephats</i> (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet in +Flamstead parish.</p> + +<p><i>Purwell Mill</i>, on the river Purwell or Pirrel, 1 mile E. from Hitchin, +stands near the spot where the tesselated pavement of a Roman villa was +discovered many years ago, in excellent preservation.</p> + +<p><a name="Puttenham" id="Puttenham"></a><span class="smcap">Puttenham</span> (1½ mile S. from Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R.) +lies near the Clinton chalk hills, in the extreme W. of the county, on +the Bucks border. The church, close to the village, is of several +periods, parts of the structure being E.E. and other portions Perp. and +Tudor. Several portions should be carefully noted: (1) very large +embattled W. tower, built of blocks of Ketton stone with flints laid in +squares between each block; (2) roof of nave, thought to date from +<i>temp.</i> Edward IV.; with two shields under the ridges, one bearing the +arms of Zouch, the church having belonged to the Priory of Ashby; (3) +solid oak pews, probably coeval with nave roof. The S. porch was rebuilt +in 1889. The vill of Puteham belonged to Leofwin, brother to <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a>[Pg 165]</span>Harold +Godwin; William I. gave it to his half-brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux.</p> + +<p><i>Queen Hoo Hall.</i> (See <a href="#Bramfield">Bramfield</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Rabley Heath</i> (1 mile S.W. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) adjoins +Sallow Wood. Knebworth and Codicote churches are about equidistant (1¼ +mile), N.W. and S.W. respectively.</p> + +<p><a name="Radlett" id="Radlett"></a><span class="smcap">Radlett</span>, with station on M.R. (main line), is about 5 miles S. +from St. Albans, on the high-road from the Marble Arch to that city. +Seen left from the train the neighbourhood is very pretty, the spire of +the church showing among the trees some distance before the station is +reached. The cruciform church is modern (1864), E. Dec. in style, with +several good windows of stained glass. A picturesque ramble may be taken +by turning into any lane in the vicinity, especially towards the Valley +of the Colne, W. A potter’s kiln of the Roman Age was discovered here.</p> + +<p><a name="Radwell" id="Radwell"></a><span class="smcap">Radwell</span>, on the Beds border, is in a charming district, +threaded by the little river Ivel, 1½ mile N.N.W. from Baldock. The mill +is reached by turning left after passing The Compasses, a quaint old +inn, where a story is told of the “Maid of the Mill,” a local beauty, +who captured many hearts in days long past.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnnum">[5]</a> Between The Compasses and +the mill stands the little Perp. church, very ancient, but in part +restored on several occasions. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a>[Pg 166]</span>It has no tower, the two bells hanging +in a small turret at the W. end of nave. Here, as at Norton, there are +several memorials to the Pym family; and a few others worth noting: (1) +brass, with effigies, to John Bell, Gent. (d. 1516), and his two wives; +this was discovered during restoration, about twenty-five years ago, but +the inscription was copied by Chauncy, so it must have been hidden by +some alterations effected after, say, 1690; (2) marble monument to John +Parker, Kt. (d. 1595), and Mary, his wife (d. 1574); the latter was +buried at Baldock. There is also a small brass to Elizabeth (Gage or +Cage), wife of John Parker (d. 1602). The font is fourteenth century. +Radwell, formerly Reedwell, is said to owe its name to the many reeds +that grew by the river-side. There are plenty of moor hens, coots and +dab-chicks on the lake-like expansion of the Ivel near the mill.</p> + +<p><i>Red Heath</i> is in the parish of Croxley Green, 2 miles N.N.E. from +Rickmansworth.</p> + +<p><i>Red Hill</i>, 4 miles E. from Baldock, is a small hamlet in a very quiet +neighbourhood. The nearest church is at Wallington, ¾ mile N.W. +<i>Julians</i>, a substantial house in the park, ½ mile S., was built early +in the seventeenth century.</p> + +<p><a name="Redbourn" id="Redbourn"></a><span class="smcap">Redbourn</span> (<i>i.e.</i>, the road by the burn) lies on the old Watling +Street, 4 miles N.W. from St. Albans. The river Ver, here a small +stream, skirts the E. side of the village. The old manor, like that of +Abbots Langley, was given <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a>[Pg 167]</span>to the Abbey of St. Albans by Egelwine the +Black and Wincelfled, his wife, in the days of Edward the Confessor. St. +Amphibalus was probably buried here after his martyrdom; his barrow was +on the Common, and the story of the removal of his bones to St. Albans +is narrated in Matthew Paris, and is referred to in the Introduction +(<a href="#IntroIX" >Section IX.</a>). The church of St. Mary, at Church End, ¾ mile W. from the +station (M.R.), dates from Norman times; the only existing portions of +the ancient structure are the three columns of the N. aisle arcade, but +much thirteenth and fourteenth centuries work still stands. It was +largely rebuilt by Abbot John Wheathampsted (<i>temp.</i> Henry VI.). Note +(1) almost unique carved oak rood screen, double canopied; (2) pointed +arches of S. side of nave, replacing those defaced during the +Commonwealth; (3) Eastern sepulchre and sedilia in chancel; (4) piscinæ +in N. aisle and lady-chapel; (5) brass in chancel, with eight kneeling +effigies, without date; (6) brass in chancel to Richard Pecock, or Pekok +(d. 1512). There are silk and corn mills on the Ver, close by.</p> + +<p><a name="Reed" id="Reed"></a><span class="smcap">Reed</span> lies on the chalk range, midway between Buntingford and +Royston, about 3½ miles S. from Royston Station, G.N.R. The village lies +right from the Old North Road. One of the best Norman doorways in the +county is on the N. of the little church, which also contains good Dec. +portions. The tower alone was untouched during the restoration of sixty +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>[Pg 168]</span>years ago. Some remains of two moats are a little E. from the village; +Reed End, Reed Green and Reed Wood, are in the vicinity. The +neighbourhood is less wooded and picturesque than most of the county.</p> + +<p><i>Revel End</i> (1½ mile S.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet.</p> + +<p><a name="Rickmansworth" id="Rickmansworth"></a>RICKMANSWORTH is in the extreme S.W. of the county; the rivers Colne, +Chess, and Gade unite here, close to the Grand Junction Canal; and it is +easy to understand why the place was formerly called “Rykemereswearth,” +<i>i.e.</i>, the rich moor-meadow. It is a compact little town with many +quaint houses and quainter by-paths. The residence now called <i>Basing +House</i>, in the High Street, was for some time the home of William Penn, +the Quaker; a photograph of it was long since reproduced in the +<i>Quiver</i>. The manor was given by Offa to the Abbots of St. Albans, who +retained it till the Dissolution, after which Edward VI. granted it to +Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London. Henry III. granted a market to be +held in the town every Wednesday; it was subsequently held on Saturday, +but has long been discontinued. Paper-making and brewing are now largely +carried on in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>The church, at the S. end of Church Street, was rebuilt (except the +tower) in 1826; and again in 1870, from designs by Sir Arthur Blomfield. +It is Perp., almost entirely embattled, and is constructed of flints, +with stone <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a>[Pg 169]</span>dressings. Note (1) sedilia, piscina and modern oak stalls +in chancel; (2) restored marble altar tomb carrying shield of arms, and +inscription to Sir Henry Cary, Baron of Leppington and Earl of Monmouth +(d. 1661); (3) brass with effigy to Thomas Day (d. 1613), and his wives +Alice (d. 1585), and Joane (d. 1598); a separate inscription in the +“Ashbie Chapple” ran—I am not sure if it is still preserved:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Here ly byrid undyr this stone<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thomas Davy and his two Wyfs Alice and Joan”.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The vicarage is thought to be the oldest in Hertfordshire; it still +retains portions dating from the middle of the fifteenth century.</p> + +<p><a name="MoorParkRick" id="MoorParkRick"></a>One mile S. is <i>Moor Park</i> (Lord Ebury). The house has undergone many +changes. George Nevil, Archbishop of York, built a house in the park in +the reign of Edward IV., and sometimes entertained that monarch, and we +read of a lodge (was it Nevil’s house?) being here when Cardinal Wolsey +owned the manor of “More Park”. The estate changed hands several times +before we find it in the hands of the unfortunate James Fitzroy, Duke of +Monmouth, who is believed to have built a large mansion on the site of +the present house. This mansion was almost rebuilt by B. H. Styles, a +man who made a fortune over South Sea Shares, and is said to have spent +£130,000 in erecting and adorning his house in this beautiful park, with +the assistance of the architect Leoni. The house that Styles built still +largely survives in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>[Pg 170]</span>the present structure, after several alterations +and much embellishment during eighteenth, nineteenth and twentieth +centuries. It is a large and stately mansion of Portland stone, with +fine Corinthian portico, the columns of which are about 50 feet high. +The vast hall was almost covered with classical and mediæval designs by +Sir James Thornhill, who had to sue Styles before he could obtain his +remuneration; note the huge statues supporting the five marble doorways. +The house may be seen to advantage some distance from the terrace; but +it must be remembered that it no longer retains its wings, which were +removed when Mr. T. B. Rous lived at Moor Park towards the end of the +eighteenth century.</p> + +<p>Permission must be obtained before the park, grounds or house can be +inspected. The park contains about 500 acres and is famous for its +splendid timber, some of its oaks being of almost perfect development +and proportions.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo019" name="illo019"></a> + <img src="images/illo019.jpg" + alt="RICKMANSWORTH" + title="RICKMANSWORTH" + height="477" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">RICKMANSWORTH</p> +</div> + +<p><i>Rickmansworth Park</i>, N. from the town, has a modern house well +situated. The park stretches nearly to Loudwater Mill on the river +Chess, and is, like Moor Park, beautifully wooded.</p> + +<p><a name="Ridge" id="Ridge"></a><span class="smcap">Ridge</span> (2½ miles S.W. from Potter’s Bar Station, G.N.R.) is on +the Middlesex border, close to South Mimms. The village doubtless owes +its name to its situation on the hill. The small church is mainly Perp., +but the chancel is E. Dec.; it contains several memorials to the Blount +family, including one to Charles <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a>[Pg 171]</span>Blount (1654-93). He was an infidel +of more bitterness than ability, as may be seen from his translation of +Philostratus’s <i>Apollonius Tyanæus</i>; readers may remember that his <i>Just +Vindication of Learning</i>, etc., was stigmatised by Macaulay as “garbled +extracts” from Milton’s <i>Areopagitica</i>. On being refused a licence to +marry his deceased wife’s sister, he committed suicide—Pope says he +“despatch’d himself”. The Blount family resided in the neighbourhood for +many generations; Sir Henry Pope Blount, father of the above-mentioned +Charles, “built here a fair structure of Brick, made fair Walks and +Gardens to it, and died seiz’d thereof”. He was the author of <i>A Voyage +into the Levant</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Ringshall</i> is a hamlet on the Bucks border, in the parish of Little +Gaddesden.</p> + +<p><i>Roe Green</i> (4 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) is in a pleasant +and very quiet neighbourhood. The nearest parish church is Sandon, about +1 mile N.E. Roe Wood is a little N. from the hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Roestock</i>, a hamlet in the parish of North Mimms, is 1 mile N. from the +Park. Smallford Station, G.N.R., is 1 mile N.W.</p> + +<p><i>Round Bush</i> consists of a few cottages, 1½ mile S.W. from Radlett +Station, M.R.</p> + +<p><i>Row Green</i> (1¼ mile S.W. from Hatfield) lies close to the road from St. +Albans to Hatfield. Row Hyde is a little farther S.W.</p> + +<p><i>Rowley Green</i>, on the road from Barnet Gate to Shenley, is nearly 2 +miles E. from Elstree Station, M.R.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo020" name="illo020"></a> + <img src="images/illo020.jpg" + alt="THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON" + title="THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON" + height="412" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">THE HIGH STREET, ROYSTON</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>[Pg 172]</span>ROYSTON, an ancient market town on the Icknield Way at its junction +with Ermine Street, was until recently partly in Cambs. It is supposed +to owe its name to a Dame Roesia who placed a cross here on the highway, +near which spot a monastery of Black Canons was founded by Eustace de +Mere and others in the reign of Henry II. Early in the reign of Henry +IV. the town was almost destroyed by fire. Royston enjoyed several +market privileges in the good old days, and it is recorded that early in +the fifteenth century wheat was so plentiful that it was sold in Royston +market for 12d. a quarter.</p> + +<p>The church was erected close to the monastery late in the thirteenth +century, and at the Dissolution was constituted the parish church. +Thirty years ago it was restored, and more recently enlarged, and is now +an imposing structure of flint and rubble, E.E. in style. The tower (W.) +is embattled and carries four pinnacles. The fine lancet windows in the +chancel were discovered during restoration in 1872, as were also the +fragments of the old screen, since pieced together to form the present +pulpit and reading desk. The alabaster effigy in the chancel, of a +knight in armour, is believed to represent one of the Scales family. +There are several old brasses: (1) to William Taberam, Rector of +Therfield (d. 1432), this was large, but only the upper part now +remains; (2) to a civilian and his wife (<i>circa</i> 1500); (3) to Father +William Chamber, who <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a>[Pg 173]</span>founded an annual sermon to be preached in the +church on Rogation Mondays (d. 1546). There are some good modern windows +of stained glass.</p> + +<p>James I., who had been entertained at Royston by Robert Chester during +his progress from Scotland to London, built a lodge near Royston Heath, +to which both he and Charles I. occasionally resorted, the latter being +brought here as prisoner in 1647. Some cottages still standing on the +outskirts of the Heath are said to have been used for stables when James +I. used to hunt in the neighbourhood, and by inquiring for the “Old +Palace” visitors will be shown what little remains of his Majesty’s +hunting lodge. The Heath is now famous for its fine golf links.</p> + +<p>Beneath the old boundary between the two counties, and close to the Post +Office, is the famous <i>Royston Cave</i>, which visitors should not fail to +see. It was accidentally discovered in 1742 by some men who were digging +a hole in the market-place, and is now entered by a specially +constructed passage under the street. It was visited by Louis XVIII. +Hewn out of the solid chalk, its greatest height is about 25 ft., its +diameter about 17 ft. It contains curious, and in some cases uncouth +figures and coloured reliefs of saints, kings, queens, etc., of all +sizes and ages, and some crucifixes. The late Joseph Beldam, F.S.A., was +of opinion that the cave dates from pre-Christian times, that it became +in turn a Roman sepulchre and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>[Pg 174]</span>an oratory, and that it was closed during +the Reformation.</p> + +<p>There are still the traces of several tumuli in the neighbourhood, and +ancient coins, etc., have been found, but the evidences of any Roman +occupation are not very convincing.</p> + +<p>Royston is a somewhat quaint town, with some narrow byways and +odd-looking houses, amongst which the Old Plough Inn is not the least +noticeable.</p> + +<p><i>Rush Green</i> (1 mile S. from Ware) is a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Rushden</i>, formerly Risendene and Risden (5 miles S.E. from Baldock), +has a stuccoed brick church, Dec. and Perp. Chauncy saw in it, “no +Inscription, Monument, or other Remark,” but in 1754 the monument of Sir +Adolphus Meetkerke, Kt., was brought here from St. Botolph’s, +Aldersgate. Meetkerke was Ambassador from Flanders to the Court of Queen +Elizabeth, and the author of several volumes. Note the canopy in nave, +thought to have covered a statue of the Virgin. In the reign of Henry +II. the patronage of the church was given by William Basset, Sheriff of +Leicestershire, to the Canons and Church of St. Peter’s at Dunstable.</p> + +<p><i>Rustling Green</i> is midway between Knebworth and St. Paul’s Walden +Parks. The district is prettily diversified by small woods. By the +shortest way through the park Knebworth Station is about 3½ miles E.</p> + +<p><a name="RyeHouse" id="RyeHouse"></a><span class="smcap">The Rye House</span>, on the W. bank of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a>[Pg 175]</span>river Lea, is a famous +resort of fishermen, excursionists and folk wishing to see the Great Bed +of Ware, brought here from Ware in 1869. The bed is a huge construction +of solid oak, quaintly carved, and large enough to hold twelve adults, +as is proved by a story which can readily be found by the curious, but +which is unfit for repetition in these pages. It is alluded to by +Shakespeare, Byron and other writers. The present Rye House is modern, +but attached to it are some remains of the old House, some account of +which must be given here.</p> + +<p>In his description of the “Mannor of the Rye” Chauncy says, “King Henry +VI. granted licence to Andrew Ogard and others, that they might impark +the scite of the Mannor of Rye, otherwise called the Isle of Rye in +Stansted Abbot, fifty Acres of Land, eleven Acres of Meadow, eight Acres +of Pasture and Sixteen Acres of Wood, erect a Castle there with Lime and +Stone, make Battlements and Loopholes &c.”<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnnum">[6]</a> The castle built by Ogard +passed into the hands of the Baesh family; it was doubtless in part +rebuilt at different times, for what remains of it is of brick. In +course of time it became the property of Lieut., afterwards Col., +Rumbold, known as “Hannibal” among his associates, who had been a +private in Fairfax’s famous regiment of 1648. This man was the +originator of the <i>Rye House Plot</i>.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a>[Pg 176]</span>The story of that plot may be recapitulated in few words. In the spring +of 1683 Charles II. and James Duke of York were at Newmarket. Rumbold +and some of his ultra-Republican friends heard that the Royal party +would return to London by way of Rye House. They met together and +arranged to secrete some men in the house, to create a disturbance as +the King passed and to kill him in the confusion which would follow. The +King escaped—probably, as most writers agree, because he left Newmarket +earlier than was expected. The plot soon became known, the Rye House was +searched and many persons were charged with High Treason. Two +illustrious men became implicated, through the allegations of Howard of +Escrick and others—Algernon Sidney and Lord Russell. Both were +certainly innocent, but both were beheaded, and Russell was buried at +Chenies in Bucks (almost on the Herts border). Rumbold fled to Holland, +joined the expedition which Argyle headed in Scotland, and was hanged in +Edinburgh in 1685. Visitors to the neighbourhood of the Rye House will +perhaps be assured that Rumbold suffered on a tree near by, but such was +not the case.</p> + +<p><a name="Sacombe" id="Sacombe"></a><span class="smcap">Sacombe</span> (4 miles N.W. from Ware) lies scattered over a +considerable district. It was long ago called Suevecamp (<i>i.e.</i>, +Suaviscampus) because of its pleasant situation. The small Dec. church +stands on the hill, at the N. end of the Park; it is of ancient +foundation, but <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>[Pg 177]</span>was entirely restored about fifty years ago. There are +two sedilia and a piscina in the chancel, and two brasses, to John +Dodyngton and Eleanor his wife (d. 1544 and 1550 respectively). Sacombe +Park is beautifully timbered; the present house of red brick dates from +about 1800.</p> + +<p><a name="StAlbans" id="StAlbans"></a>ST. ALBANS is one of the most ancient and interesting places in England; +it became a city on the foundation of the Bishopric of St. Albans in +1877. It may be approached by road from London, (1) by way of Barnet and +London Colney, the G.N.R. Station (branch from Hatfield) being passed on +the left nearly a mile from the old clock tower and market-place; (2) by +way of Edgware, Elstree and Radlett, by which route, after passing St. +Stephens, the L.&N.W.R. Station (branch from Watford) is on the right +and the steep Holywell Hill leading to High Street is straight before. +The river Ver skirts the entire S. limits of the city itself; the field +that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the +Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of +St. Alban.</p> + +<p>As the ancient Roman city—the <i>Verulamium</i> of Antoninus—stood some +distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the +heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the +death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods +and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus, +connived at <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a>[Pg 178]</span>his escape, and adopted his faith (<i>circa</i> 285-305; the +date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured +and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E. +This they named <i>Watlingceaster</i> (the town on Watling Street), but when +(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill, +the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as +St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier +church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon +after the death of St. Alban.</p> + +<p>The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads +meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from +Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites +with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, ¼ mile N.W. +from St. Peter’s Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are +respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St. +Peter’s Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called +Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the +flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in +the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled +down.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo021" name="illo021"></a> + <img src="images/illo021.jpg" + alt="THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S" + title="THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S" + height="365" width="600"/> + <p class="caption">THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN’S<br /> +<i>The oldest Inn in England</i></p> +</div> + + +<p>We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the +bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass +through the gate near the river <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>[Pg 179]</span>side and keeping the cress-beds on +the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the +Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front +of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into +the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad <i>Gate House</i>, a relic +of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and vaulted +roof. This was originally the entrance to the Abbey court, the “Magna +Porta” of the old monastic days. There was a former structure on or near +the same spot; this was blown down and the present building dates from +the rule of Thomas de la Mere, thirtieth abbot (1349-96). Used as a jail +some centuries ago, it has long been known as St. Alban’s <i>Grammar +School</i>; the battlemented house S.W. of the archway is the residence of +the head master. The claims of this school to be <i>the oldest in England</i> +cannot be adequately discussed here. Suffice it to say that documents +attesting its existence date from Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119); +his successor, Geoffrey de Gorham, came from Normandy to become its +master. Matthew Paris records that the school was afterwards kept by a +nephew of Abbot Warine (or Warren) de Cambridge, and had at that time +more scholars than any school in England. Passing through the arch we +notice on the left a small, triangular burial ground. The spot is called +Romeland. Here George Tankerville was burnt by order of Bishop Bonner, +on 26th August, 1556.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a>[Pg 180]</span>Passing straight forward into Spicer Street the <i>Congregational +Chapel</i>, founded in 1797, is on the right. A little farther on is +College Street; on the left side stands the house in which Cowper was +placed under the charge of Dr. Cotton when his insanity was most +pronounced. To reach the old <i>Clock Tower</i> we turn right into Verulam +Street and left into High Street. The Tower stands at the S. end of the +Market Place; note the quaint, narrow thoroughfare at its W. side, +called French Row. The Tower is Perp., of flint and dressed stone, +battlemented, and surmounted by a small spire; the basement has long +been utilised as a saddler’s shop. It dates from the fifteenth +century,<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnnum">[7]</a> but was restored by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1864. In it hangs +the great bell “Gabriel” cast early in the reign of Edward III.; it is +now used for striking the hour and formerly tolled the curfew. In the +foreground, where the drinking fountain now stands, was “Eleanor’s +Cross,” erected, like the cross at Waltham (<i><a href="#WalthamCross">q.v.</a></i>), by Edward I. in +memory of his Queen. It was destroyed about 1700. The old market-place, +so quaint even fifty years ago, is now largely occupied by modern shops; +partly by reason of a fire which occurred many years back.</p> + +<p>Continuing our way up the market-place we pass the <i>Town Hall</i> or <i>Court +House</i> on the right, an Italian structure dating from 1826, and the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>[Pg 181]</span>broad St. Peter’s Street opens before us, leading to the old church +dedicated to that saint. The church is one of three built by Abbot +Ulsinus in Saxon times; the date of their foundation is very uncertain, +but we may bear in mind that the first abbot, Willegod, ruled at the +close of the eighth century, that Ulsinus was the sixth abbot, and that +six others ruled during Pre-Norman times. St. Peter’s Church, largely +restored by Lord Grimthorpe, is therefore of great antiquity as a +foundation; the present structure is chiefly late Perp. with a lofty E. +tower carrying four pinnacles, the latter an addition by the restorer. +The position of the tower (elsewhere almost invariably W.) is explained +by the fact that the old church was cruciform, and that when, at the +beginning of last century, the extreme E. of the chancel and the +transepts were found much dilapidated they were pulled down, the old +tower thereby losing its central position. Note the E. Perp. arches +separating nave and aisles; the pulpit a good example of Belgian +carving, and the old stained glass in windows of N. aisle; the stained +glass in other windows is modern. Concerning the brass to Roger +Pemberton, Sheriff of Herts (d. 13th November, 1627), a story is told. +If the visitor passes out of the churchyard by the N.W. gate he will be +<i>vis-à-vis</i> to the almshouses founded in 1627 on the W. side of what was +then “St. Peter’s Street, Bowgate”. Pemberton is said to have been +shooting in the woods, to have shot a widow by accident, and to have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>[Pg 182]</span>founded these almshouses for widows, and endowed them with £30 per +annum for ever as a salve to his conscience. There is an iron arrow over +the old brick gateway before the houses, which seems to countenance the +story. There were formerly many other brasses in the church, but the +inscriptions on some of them must now be sought in the county histories. +A few, however, remain, <i>e.g.</i>, one with shield of arms to Mrs. +Elizabeth Wyndham (d. 1735). In the N. aisle is the tomb of Edward +Strong (d. 1723), “Master Mason” of St. Paul’s Cathedral; in the +churchyard lies Dr. Nathaniel Cotton, the friend of Cowper (see page +<a href="#Page_180">180</a>) (d. 1788). Among those who fell in the battles of St. Albans (of +which more will be said presently) and were buried in this church or +graveyard were (1) Sir Bertin Entwysel, Kt., Baron of Brybeke in +Normandy; (2) Ralph Babthorpe and Ralph his son, of an old Yorkshire +family. As a matter of fact a great number of the slain were buried +here; Chauncy says “this Church and Churchyard was filled with the +Bodies of those that were slain in the two battles fought in this town”.</p> + +<p>The two other churches founded by Abbot Ulsinus are those of St. Stephen +and St. Michael.</p> + +<p><i>St. Stephen’s Church</i> stands ¾ mile S.W. from the Clock Tower, at the +junction of the roads from Edgware and Watford. It was restored by Sir +Gilbert Scott in 1861-62; but still retains some ancient features; +<i>e.g.</i>, the late <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>[Pg 183]</span>Norman arch in N. wall, formerly in part separating +the nave from the N. aisle (now absent), and two Norman windows, widely +splayed, in W. wall. Note (1) brass eagle-lectern, believed to have been +formerly in the Abbey at Holyrood; (2) double piscina in S. aisle; (3) +fifteenth century font. The oldest brass, much worn, is in the S. +chapel; it is to the memory of William Robins, Clerk of the Signet to +Edward IV., (d. 1482) and Katherine his wife.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo022" name="illo022"></a> + <img src="images/illo022.png" + alt="LORD BACON'S MONUMENT" + title="LORD BACON'S MONUMENT" + height="600" width="340"/> + <p class="caption">LORD BACON’S MONUMENT</p> +</div> + +<p><i>St. Michael’s Church</i>, about ¾ mile W. from the Clock Tower, stands on +gently rising ground close to the carriage road to Gorhambury. It is +believed to occupy, approximately, the centre of what was the ancient +city of Verulam (<i><a href="#Verulam">q.v.</a></i>) and to mark the site of a Roman temple. It has +been restored, and the tower rebuilt, by Lord Grimthorpe; the work was +only completed two or three years ago. Flint and tiles taken from the +surrounding ruins by the builders still exist in the walls; but repeated +restorations have almost obliterated the evidences of its antiquity. +There are brasses (1) to Thomas Wolvey, an Esquire to Richard II. (d. +1430); (2) to “John Pecok et Maud sa femme” (<i>circa</i> 1340-50); but the +monument of paramount interest is that in the recess N. of the chancel, +to Francis Bacon, Baron Verulam and Viscount St. Albans (d. 9th April, +1626). The great philosopher and Lord Chancellor is represented as +sitting in a tall chair, leaning his head upon his left hand; a Jacobean +ruff is round his neck and a wide <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>[Pg 184]</span>hat upon his head; the sculptor +(unknown) has succeeded admirably in imparting an air of abstraction to +the countenance. Of Bacon’s house at <i>Gorhambury</i>, 1½ mile farther W., +little remains except some fragments of wall and tower, with <a name="cm12" id="cm12"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr12" +title="Original reads 'projectin gentrance'">projecting +entrance</a> porch. In the yet remaining spandrels of the arches are +medallions of Roman Emperors; over the porch are the arms of Elizabeth. +The present mansion, a little E. from the ruins, was commenced in 1778 +by James third Viscount Grimston; it has been considerably altered, but +retains the grand N. portico; the pediment, supported by ten Corinthian +columns, reaches to the roof. The hall is very large, and contains +portraits of Francis Bacon, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and +other worthies. There are numerous pictures in other apartments, +including portraits of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Thomas Wentworth, Earl of +Stafford, Queen Elizabeth, Robert Devereux, Catherine of Braganza and +William Pitt.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo023" name="illo023"></a> + <img src="images/illo023.png" + alt="RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE" + title="RUINS OF LORD BACON'S HOUSE" + height="600" width="336"/> + <p class="caption">RUINS OF LORD BACON’S HOUSE</p> +</div> + +<p>There were three monastic institutions on the outskirts of the town:—</p> + +<p>(1) The Leper Hospital of <i>St. Julian</i>, founded by Geoffrey de Gorham, +sixteenth Abbot of St. Albans, on a spot close to St. Stephen’s Church. +Of this no vestige remains.</p> + +<p>(2) The Hospital of <i>St. Mary de Pré</i>, for women-lepers, founded about +fifty years after the above by Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot, on +either side of the old Watling Street. Some of the graves in the +churchyard attached <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>[Pg 185]</span>to the hospital were visible so recently as 1827, +and the cottages known as the “Three Chimnies,” originally part of the +hospital itself, were pulled down in 1849.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnnum">[8]</a></p> + + +<p>(3) <i>Sopwell Nunnery</i>, founded by Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham about 1140, +at a spot a little S. from the Old London Road, on the river Ver. The +masses of ivy-mantled ruins still to be seen, and usually called the +“ruins of Sopwell Nunnery,” are, at least for the most part, the remains +of the house built by Sir Richard Lee, to whom the manor was granted at +the Dissolution.</p> + +<p>ST. ALBANS ABBEY.—The Abbey has been so repeatedly altered and restored +that it may be said to illustrate every style of ecclesiastical +architecture from Norman to the present time. Opinions differ widely as +to the merits of that scheme of renovation and innovation completed +under the direction and by the munificence of Lord Grimthorpe, and no +attempt will be here made to criticise or extol the work of so great an +expert. Such a description of the venerable Abbey as an architect might +love to write would fill a volume in this series. After careful +consideration I have decided to sketch its history in such a way as to +show, however imperfectly, how it came to be what it is. I have been +careful to compare many authorities and to follow the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a>[Pg 186]</span>consensus of +testimony wherever I have found discrepancy or contradiction.</p> + +<p>It has already been stated that, according to Gildas, Bede and other +authorities, a church was erected on Holmhurst Hill after the martyrdom +of St. Alban. Concerning that church we know little more than that it +was almost destroyed by the Saxons. In 793, or very near that date, Offa +II., who had murdered the East Anglian King, Ethelbert, resolved to +found a monastery, encouraged, as we learn from William of Malmesbury, +by Charlemagne. The monastery was duly founded, for an abbot and 100 +Benedictine monks, and the little church, renovated, became the original +abbey of the foundation. Having discovered the bones of St. Alban and +placed them in a costly reliquary, Offa conveyed them to this church, +intending to erect a nobler edifice for their reception; but it is +doubtful whether the design was carried out during his lifetime. Indeed, +we know little as to that enlarging and adornment of the church which +must surely have been effected in the days of the early abbots, and the +first hints of the erection of the great abbey occur in the lives of +Ealdred and Eadmer, eighth and ninth abbots, who collected immense +quantities of red, tile-like Roman bricks from the ruins of Verulam; +Matthew Paris tells us that Eadmer made some progress in the actual +rebuilding of the church. The twelfth abbot, Leofstan (d. 1066), +enriched the building with <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>[Pg 187]</span>“certain ornaments”; but it was the +fourteenth abbot, Paul de Caen (1077-97), who, using the vast stores of +material collected by his predecessors, entirely rebuilt the church on a +scale almost commensurate with its present size.</p> + +<p>The rebuilding of the Abbey Church by Abbot Paul de Caen occupied eleven +years. When completed, it was certainly one of the noblest and largest +structures in the kingdom. The length of this cruciform Norman church +was 426 feet. (The extreme length is now 550, due to additions presently +mentioned.) On the E. side of either transept were two apsidal chapels, +the one adjoining the presbytery aisle being in each case the larger of +the two; there was also an apse at the E. end of the presbytery. A +square, battlemented tower flanked the W. front on either side; but the +chief glory of Abbot Paul’s church was undoubtedly the enormous Norman +tower of four stages, triforium, clerestory, ringing-floor and belfry, +surmounted by parapets and flanked by angle turrets, of which such +considerable portions yet remain. Visitors who saw the Abbey thirty +years ago saw the E. portion of the nave, the transepts and the tower +substantially as built by Abbot Paul de Caen. The new Abbey was +dedicated 1115.</p> + +<p>Geoffrey de Gorham, sixteenth abbot (1119-46), placed the relics of St. +Alban in a new shrine.</p> + +<p>Robert de Gorham, eighteenth abbot (1161-67), <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>[Pg 188]</span>erected the <i>Chapter +House</i> and <i>Locutory</i> (Abbot’s Cloister); his successor, Symeon +(1167-83), completed the erection and embellishment of the <i>Shrine of +St. Alban</i>, raising its height so that it could be seen from the <i>High +Altar</i>. During his abbacy the relics of St. Amphibalus were brought to +St. Albans, and the shrine of that saint was eventually erected in the +E. aisle. The <i>Chapel of St. Cuthbert</i> in the <i>Baptistery</i>, built by +Abbot Richard de Albini (1097-1119), was also dedicated about this time.</p> + +<p>Warren de Cambridge, twentieth abbot (1183-95), placed the relics of St. +Amphibalus in a feretry, enriching it with gold and silver +ornamentation. He placed it behind the High Altar, near the feretry of +St. Alban.</p> + +<p>John de Cella, twenty-first abbot (1195-1214), commenced to rebuild the +W. front, notably the three fine E.E. porches now replaced by those of +Lord Grimthorpe, but the work was completed by his successor William de +Trumpyntone (1214-35), who added the two flanking towers. This abbot +erected the rood screen between the nave and choir, added the octagon +above the tower after removing the Norman turrets and parapets, and +probably built those E.E. bays on each side of the nave which are +nearest to the W. front. He also restored portions of the S. transept +and S. aisle, and rebuilt <i>St. Cuthbert’s Chapel</i> on the spot now partly +occupied by the <i>Rood Screen</i>.</p> + +<p>The E. end of the Abbey next received the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>[Pg 189]</span>attention of these +architect-abbots. Commencing at the second bay E. from the tower, John +de Hertford (1235-60) almost entirely replaced the Norman and E.E. work +of his predecessors by work which merged into a graceful E. Dec. The +work was carried on by his immediate successors, doubtless sadly +hindered by the turbulent state of the times. John de Norton (1260-90) +built the S. aisle of the <i>Retro-choir</i>, and part of the <i>Lady-chapel</i>, +but his work was supplemented by that of John de Berkhampstead +(1291-1302). John de Marinis (1302-8) removed the feretry and tomb of +St. Alban to the position which it occupied until about the time of the +Dissolution and spent 820 marks in the erection of a tomb of Purbeck +marble. Hugh de Eversden (1308-26) built the five moulded Dec. bays of +the S. aisle, replacing the Norman work, which had given way, and +completed the <i>Lady-chapel</i> at the extreme E., thereby greatly +increasing the length of the entire building. There was subsequently, +however, for a long period, a passage between the <i>Retro-choir</i> and the +<i>Lady-chapel</i>.</p> + +<p>Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1335-49) completed the restoration of the S. +aisle and repaired the <i>Cloister</i>. His successor, Thomas de la Mere, +paved the W. floor, and no doubt minor restorations were almost +continually in progress during the latter half of the fourteenth +century; but a new chapter in the story of the Abbey commenced when John +de Wheathampsted <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>[Pg 190]</span>became abbot (1420-40 and 1451-64). This celebrated +man, during the two periods of his abbacy, hardly rested in his efforts +to beautify the Abbey. It is stated in a Cottonian MS. that this abbot +constructed a little chapel near the shrine of St. Alban; this was +perhaps the <i>Watching Loft</i> (N. of <i>Saint’s Chapel</i>) in which the keeper +of the holy shrine and relics (Custos Feretri) spent much of his time. +John de Wheathampsted also built the tomb of Humphrey, Duke of +Gloucester (d. 1447), on the side of the chapel opposite the <i>Watching +Loft</i> (a few steps lead down to the coffin); prepared his own tomb W. +from that of the duke; built the great Perp. window over the W. porches, +now replaced by one Dec. in design, and the nine N. windows of <i>Nave</i> +and <i>Ante-Choir</i>; and was probably responsible for the paintings +discovered on the choir ceiling, and for many of the embellishments of +the <i>Lady-chapel</i>. Perhaps, however, his fame chiefly rests on the <i>High +Altar Screen</i>, which he designed, but which was erected by the +thirty-sixth abbot, William Wallingford (1476-84).</p> + +<p>There were apparently few important features added to the Abbey, and but +little restoration effected during the rule of the last four abbots +(1492-1539). A few brief paragraphs concerning its modern restorations +and present appearance must now be added.</p> + +<p>Those modern restorations date largely from the middle of last century. +Its condition, internally and externally, was at that time certainly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a>[Pg 191]</span>discreditable to everybody concerned in its welfare. In 1856 a National +Committee placed the matter in the hands of Sir Gilbert Scott, under +whose direction the building was in part restored; but public funds +presently failed and in 1879 the direction of the workers was undertaken +by one who had at once the inclination and the funds necessary to its +completion—Lord Grimthorpe.</p> + +<p>The <i>Abbey</i>, from the W. porches to the E. end of the <i>Lady-chapel</i> and +the <i>Chapel of Transfiguration</i>, measures inside 520 feet, outside 550 +feet; the entire <i>transept</i> length from N. to S., on the floor, 177 +feet; the <i>nave</i>, the longest Gothic one in the world, 292 feet × 75 +feet 4 inches; the <i>Lady-chapel</i>, 57 feet × 24 feet; the great <i>Screens</i> +are rather less than 170 feet apart; the height of the <i>tower</i> is 144 +feet. Visitors will find some slight discrepancies as to measurements in +the several guides which have been compiled; but the foregoing figures +will assist them to realise the vast dimensions of the building. Its +area is approximately 40,000 square feet. Of special interest are:—</p> + +<p>(1) <i>The Tower</i>, which is seen to greater advantage since Sir Gilbert +Scott removed the exterior plaster, thus exposing the wonderfully +preserved Roman tiles with which it was faced by Abbot Paul de Caen. The +four enormous piers upon which it rests were weakened by the ignorance +of early restorers, who cut into them freely, and dug graves in such +manner as to imperil their foundations. The most arduous <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>[Pg 192]</span>work of Sir +Gilbert Scott was the strengthening of these piers, effected piecemeal +by partial reconstruction of the piers themselves and by laying a +durable substratum of cement right down to the chalk. The fine ring of +eight bells was rehung. Visitors will find the ascent of the spiral +staircase long and arduous, but will be rewarded by the almost +unrivalled view from between the merlons on its summit.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo024" name="illo024"></a> + <img src="images/illo024.png" + alt="The Shrine of St Alban" + title="The Shrine of St Alban" + height="600" width="345"/> +</div> + + +<p>(2) <i>St. Alban’s Shrine</i> (in the Saint’s Chapel between the Altar Screen +and the Lady-chapel), already referred to (p. 188), disappeared about +the time of the suppression of the monastery (1539), and all traces of +it were lost except the fragment of Purbeck marble marking its former +site on the chapel floor. Yet that shrine, its genuineness unquestioned, +stands to-day on the site which it occupied centuries ago! Hundreds of +fragments of Purbeck marble were discovered when the central arches of +the Lady-chapel were opened by Dr. Nicholson previous to the +restorations of Sir Gilbert Scott. Subsequently, other fragments were +discovered and the whole collection, the importance of which was +suspected, was pieced together with indefatigable ingenuity by the late +John Chapple. The <i>feretry</i> itself, mentioned by Matthew Paris, which +was supposed to contain the relic of the martyr, has not, and probably +never will be, discovered. The vaulted niches are of clunch, but the +rest of the shrine is of Purbeck marble. Note the beautiful tracery of +these groined niches, the cusps of the arches and crocketted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a>[Pg 193]</span>pediments, and the carvings in the tympana, representing scenes from +the martyrdom of SS. Alban and Amphibalus.</p> + +<p>(3) <i>Shrine of St. Amphibalus</i> (in N. aisle of presbytery). This was +discovered in fragments and pieced together in the same manner as that +of St. Alban. The whole, however, is of clunch, and, unfortunately, +incomplete. Note the fret-like sculpture round the basement, and the +name of the saint (imperfect) in carved capitals.</p> + +<p>(4) <i>High Altar Screen</i>, or screen of Abbot Wallingford (restored at the +expense of Lord Aldenham); is in point of size, as in beauty, perhaps +unique in England. Note its resemblance to that at Winchester. It was +much dilapidated, its many statues having been entirely destroyed at the +time of the Reformation; but its restoration has been admirably +executed, the figures of SS. Alban and Amphibalus being especially +noticeable: the latter wears a <i>Celtic</i>, not a Roman tonsure. Note also +the figures of our Lord and His apostles in alabaster, and those of +Adrian IV., Bede, Hugh of Lincoln, St. Edmund and many others.</p> + +<p>(5) Chantry Tombs of <i>Abbot Ramryge</i> and <i>Abbot John Wheathampsted</i>, +occupying respectively the last arches of N. and S. side of the +Sanctuary. Note the fine late Perp. work of the former, and the +Wheathampsted arms, three wheat-ears, on the latter.</p> + +<p>(6) <i>The Lady-chapel</i> (enter through Retro-choir). This formerly +contained much of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>[Pg 194]</span>finest work in the Abbey and traces of it are +still retained, despite its repeated and entire restoration. The present +vaulted roof of real stone replaces that of imitation stone built by +Abbot Hugh de Eversden. In post-Reformation days it was long used as the +Grammar School; but since the removal of the school to the Old Gate +House (1869) the chapel has gradually been brought into its present +state. Many of its most beautiful features—tracery, mouldings, +statuettes, carvings, etc.—had, however, been completely destroyed by +the boys. The marble pavement is new; the stained glass in the E. window +was presented by the Corporation of London. Note the wonderful variety +of carved flowers and fruits with which this chapel is embellished.</p> + +<p>From Grose’s <i>Antiquities</i> (vol. viii.) I quote the following:—</p> + +<p>“Mr. Robert Shrimpton, grandfather, by the mother’s side, to Mrs. +Shrimpton of St. Albans, was four times mayor of that town; he died +about sixty years since, being then about 103 years of age. He lived +when the Abbey of St. Alban flourished before the Dissolution and +remembered most things relating to the buildings of the Abbey, the +regimen of the house, the ceremonies of the church ... all of which he +would often discourse in his life-time. Among other things, that in the +Great Hall there was an ascent of fifteen steps to the abbot’s table, to +which the monks brought up the service in plate, and staying at every +fifth <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>[Pg 195]</span>step, which was a resting-place, at every of which they sung a +short hymn. The abbot usually sat alone in the middle of the table; and +when any nobleman or ambassador or stranger of eminent quality came +thither they sat at his table towards the end thereof. When the monks +had waited a while on the abbot, they sat down at two other tables, +placed on the sides of the hall and had their service brought in by +novices, who, when the monks had dined, sat down to their own dinner.”</p> + +<p><i>First Battle of St. Albans.</i>—On <i>May 23rd</i>, 1455, the forces of King +Henry VI. assembled in the neighbourhood of St. Peter’s Street, and were +attacked by those of the Duke of York and Warwick the Kingmaker. +Advancing from the fields E. of the town, Warwick’s men appear to have +approached from Key Fields and Sopwell Lane, and, finally, having fought +their way into Holywell Hill, to have united with those of the Duke of +York, who had forced the town barriers farther N. The battle was +desperately contested; the bowmen, as usual in those times, playing a +conspicuous part; Henry VI. was wounded in the neck, Humphrey Earl of +Stafford in the right hand, Lord Sudley and the Duke of Buckingham in +the face—all with arrows. The wounded king took refuge in the cottage +of a tanner; here he was made prisoner and conducted by the Duke of York +to the Abbey. The town was at the mercy of the Yorkist soldiers during +the latter part of the day; many houses were looted and the Abbey was +probably spared only <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>[Pg 196]</span>because the royal prisoner had been conducted +thither. Several illustrious persons slain in this battle were buried in +the Lady-chapel: (1) Henry Percy, second Earl of Northumberland; (2) +Edmund Beaufort, first Duke of Somerset; (3) John, Lord Clifford. Sir +Robert Vere, Sir William Chamberlain, Sir Richard Fortescue, Kts., and +many squires and other gentlemen also perished.</p> + +<p><i>Second Battle of St. Albans.</i>—On Shrove Tuesday, 17th February, 1461, +Queen Margaret defeated the Earl of Warwick, who retreated with +considerable loss, the battle being mostly fought out on Bernard’s +Heath, N. from St. Peter’s Church. This engagement also was stubbornly +fought out. According to Stow and Hollinshead, the Lancastrians were +thwarted in their efforts to pass through the town from S. to N., being +repulsed by arrows in the Market Place, and eventually reached Bernard’s +Heath by a circuitous route from the W. If this is so, visitors who +ramble down the High Street, turn right into Katherine Lane, coming out +of Wellclose Street near St. Peter’s Church, will probably tread in the +footsteps of the troops of Margaret. After the fight had been decided +the victorious Lancastrians poured back into the town, which was again +plundered, and the Abbey also partially stripped. This was during the +second abbacy of John Wheathampsted, and Stow records that the day after +the battle Queen Margaret, and the King (Henry VI.) were led by the +abbot and monks to the High Altar of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a>[Pg 197]</span>the Abbey, where they returned +thanks for the victory.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">St. Margaret’s</span>, on the river Lea, has a small church with +several unimportant memorials. It was probably formed from one aisle of +an older edifice.</p> + +<p><i>St. Margaret’s</i> is also the name of a few cottages a little N.W. from +Great Gaddesden, near the site of the Benedictine convent of <i>Muresley</i>, +the refectory of which was almost intact early last century.</p> + +<p><a name="StPaulsWalden" id="StPaulsWalden"></a><span class="smcap">St. Paul’s Walden</span> (4 miles S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) +is a large and scattered parish; much of it is very picturesque. The +church, which was restored twenty years ago, is of several styles, but +contains little worthy of comment. Note the tablet on the W. wall of the +chapel to Henry Stapleford and Dorothy his wife. “The said Henry was +servant to Queen Elizabeth, King James and King Charles” (d. 1631). The +manor was formerly called first <i>Waldene</i>, then Abbot’s Walden, being +the property of the abbots of St. Albans. <i>St. Paul’s Walden Bury</i>, ½ +mile S.W. from the church, is the seat of Lord Strathmore. Note the fine +avenues in the park, commanding good views of the house. The walk S. to +Whitwell, through the steep and twisted lane and across the bridge over +the Maran, keeping the “bog” and cress beds on the right, is very +pretty.</p> + +<p><a name="Sandon" id="Sandon"></a><span class="smcap">Sandon</span> (3½ miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R) has a flint +church, probably late fourteenth century. Several features should be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a>[Pg 198]</span>noted: (1) Perp. screen (oak) between nave and chancel; (2) old stained +glass in windows of both aisles; (3) fine Jacobean oak pulpit; (4) old +brass, with inscription which was imperfect 200 years back, to “Johannes +Fitz Geoffery, Armiger” (d. 1480); (5) piscina in each aisle; (6) +pinnacled and crocketted arches in chancel, over triple sedilia. The +church was partially restored in 1875. The manor of <i>Sandone</i> was owned +by Saxon kings; Athelstan gave ten houses in the <i>vill</i> to St. Paul’s, +London. The Old North Road to Royston is 2 miles E.</p> + +<p><a name="Sandridge" id="Sandridge"></a><span class="smcap">Sandridge</span> (2½ miles N.E. from St. Albans) is on the road to +Wheathampstead, and is a thoroughly typical English village consisting, +for the most part, of one street, with the parish church near its N.E. +end. The parish stretches northwards to the Lea, and is very ancient; +the <i>vill</i> was given by Egfrith, a son of Offa, to St. Alban’s Abbey. It +owes its name to the nature of its soil. The church, one of the most +ancient in the county, has known much restoration, but still retains +Norman work. It was consecrated as a chapel a few years after the +consecration of St. Alban’s Abbey (1115); the chancel was rebuilt by +Abbot John Moote (<i>circa</i> 1400). The tower fell towards the end of the +seventeenth century and the structure which took its place was pulled +down and reconstructed in 1887. Note the old material in the apex, the +Perp. windows in the aisles, the clerestoried Norman nave and the Norman +font. There are N. and S. porches.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>[Pg 199]</span>Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, derived his first title, Baron +Sandridge, from this parish; the Jennings family, from which his wife +Sarah was descended, possessed the manor for several generations. +<i>Sandridge Bury</i>, N.W. from the village, is beautifully situated.</p> + +<p><a name="Sarratt" id="Sarratt"></a><span class="smcap">Sarratt</span> (1½ mile N. from Chorley Wood Station, Met. Extension) +is near the river Chess, on the Bucks border. The church is late Norman +and is remarkable for the saddle-back roof of its tower, running N. and +S., the only tower roof of its kind in Herts. The building is cruciform, +of flint, dressed with Totternhoe and Caen stone, and has a square +ambry, a very old piscina, and a double sedilia; the latter is E.E. +Richard Baxter is said to have preached from the Jacobean pulpit. There +are a few old memorials. The church is prettily situated, and a +picturesque walk may be taken N.W. to Sarratt Bottom, thence N.E. to</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sarratt Green</span>, which during the last two or three centuries has +gradually outgrown Sarratt. Note the many fine old cottages on either +side of the village green. Sarratt owes its name to Syret, a Saxon.</p> + +<p>SAWBRIDGEWORTH (formerly Sabysford, Sabridgeworth, Saybrichesworth and +now often called Sapsworth) lies at the S.E. extremity of the county, 4 +miles S. from Bishop’s Stortford. The district is not very diversified, +but is open and pleasant. The history of the several old manor houses in +the neighbourhood would fill a large volume; those of <i>Hyde Hall</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a>[Pg 200]</span>(E.) +and <i>Pishiobury</i> (S.) are engraved in Chauncy; the present mansion in +<a name="cm13" id="cm13"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr13" +title="Original reads 'Pishobury'">Pishiobury</a> Park was built by Wyatt, and has a fine adjoining rosery. +The church stands between the town and the station (G.E.R.); it has a +good Perp. screen between the clerestoried Dec. nave and the chancel, +and a large canopied piscina in the N. aisle. The brasses are numerous: +note (1) to Sir John Leventhorpe (d. 1433) and Katherine his wife (d. +1431); the former was an executor to King Henry V.; (2) to several other +members of the Leventhorpe family, too numerous to mention; (3) to +Calpredus Jocelin (d. 147-), and his wives Katherine and Joan; (4) +inscription on brass, which was long ago transcribed as follows:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">“Of your Charite<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sey a Pater Nostre and an Ave<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For the Sowl of William Chaunce<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On whose Sowl Jesu have Mercy”.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Several monuments and brasses are to the memory of persons buried +elsewhere. Note the marble altar-tomb in chancel to John Jocelin or +Jocelyn (d. 1525) and Philippa his wife.</p> + +<p><i>Shafton End</i> and <i>Shafton-Hoe</i> lie a little E. from the Cambridge Road, +on the Essex border, about 4 miles S.E. from Royston.</p> + +<p><i>Shaw Green</i> is 4 miles S.E. from Baldock, near <i>Julians Park</i>.</p> + +<p><a name="Sheephall" id="Sheephall"></a><span class="smcap">Sheephall</span> (2 miles N.N.E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R.) is a +little E. from the Great <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a>[Pg 201]</span>North Road. It is a small village. The church, +E.E., is approached through a good lich-gate, and contains many +memorials, including two sixteenth-century brasses to members of the +Nodes family, one of which was Sergeant of the Buckhounds to Henry +VIII., Edward VI., Mary and Elizabeth (d. 1564).</p> + +<p><a name="Shenley" id="Shenley"></a><span class="smcap">Shenley</span> (2 miles E. from Radlett Station, M.R.) is of interest +to many for its fine old “lock-up,” or cage, in the centre of the +village. We are on high ground here, and the tower of St. Alban’s Abbey +is well seen above the trees to the N.W. The village is scattered along +several converging roads, and the surrounding country is undulating and +beautifully wooded. Turn down the lane opposite the Black Lion to reach +the old church of St. Botolph, 1 mile N.N.W. from the cage. Note the +venerable yews, and the quaint old grave-boards in the graveyard; also +the altar-tomb to Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Wren, and the architect +of St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street (d. at Shenley, 1736). The church +was partly rebuilt in the middle of the eighteenth century, when the +tower was demolished and a structure of timber, with quadrangular tiled +roof, eventually erected in its stead. This has disappeared, and the +“old parish church” is now an oblong building of flints, chalk-faced, +with tiled roof. <i>Porters</i>, in the park, a little W., was the residence +of Admiral Lord Howe. <i>Salisbury Hall</i>, a gabled manor house with +massive chimneys, surrounded by a moat, is Jacobean, and stands <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a>[Pg 202]</span>on the +spot occupied successively by the older houses of the Montacutes, and of +Sir John Cutts, Treasurer and Privy Councillor to Henry VIII. Eugene +Aram visited the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><i>Sleap’s Hyde</i> (½ mile S.E. from Smallford Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +in the parish of Colney Heath.</p> + +<p><i>Smug Oak</i>, a few cottages, lies on the E. confines of Bricket Wood, ½ +mile N.E. from that station, L.&N.W.R.</p> + +<p><i>Smyth’s End</i> adjoins Barley on the S. (<i><a href="#Barley">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Solesbridge Lane</i>, on the river Chess, is close to Chorley Wood.</p> + +<p><i>Southend</i> and <i>Southend Green</i> are hamlets, (1) adjoining Stevenage on +the S., (2) ½ mile E. from Rushden.</p> + +<p><i>Spellbrook</i> is a hamlet nearly midway between Sawbridgeworth and +Bishop’s Stortford.</p> + +<p><i>Stanborough</i>, on the Hatfield-Welwyn road, is midway between Hatfield +and Brocket Hall Parks. The road which branches N.W. from the hamlet +leads to the modern church at Lemsford (<i><a href="#Lemsford">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><a name="Standon" id="Standon"></a><span class="smcap">Standon</span> has several claims to notice. It is a large village, 1 +mile E. from the Old North Road. A little W., and on the other side of +the railway, is the mansion which occupies the site of <i>Standon +Lordship</i>, a fine old manor house, of which hardly a vestige remains. It +was long owned by the Sadleir family, most illustrious of whom was Sir +Ralph Sadleir (d. 1587), who fought at Pinkie. (See below.)</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>[Pg 203]</span>The church, largely Dec., still retains some Saxon foundations, and has +singular features worthy of comment. The embattled tower is separate +from the main structure, standing on the <i>S. side of the chancel</i>; the +chancel is raised much higher than the nave, from which it is approached +by a flight of steps; note the hagioscope on either side of the chancel +arch. Within the chancel, on the S. side, stands the fine monument to +Sir Ralph Sadleir, consisting of altar-tomb and marble effigy in armour, +recumbent beneath a canopy supported by Corinthian pillars; note the +relieved figures of his sons and daughters on the lower part of the +tomb, also, suspended above, two helmets and other relics. The standard +pole captured at Pinkie rests beside the effigy. There are also several +old brasses. Close to the village, at Old Hall Green, are the Roman +Catholic College, Chapel and Cemetery; the college was founded at +Twyford, Hants, late in the seventeenth century, from whence it was +removed, first to Standon Lordship, and then (1769) to Old Hall. The +library is large and valuable.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stanstead Abbots</span> may be easily reached from St. Margaret’s +Station, G.E.R., ½ mile W. It was a place of considerable trade at the +time of the Conquest. The old flint church is E.E., with a chapel on the +N. side, built by Edward Baesh—whose monument it contains—in 1577. He +was lord of the manor of Stanstead Abbots and “General Surveyor of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a>[Pg 204]</span>Victuals for the Navy Royal and Marine affairs within the Realms of +England and Ireland” (d. 1587). He married Jane, a daughter of Sir Ralph +Sadleir. (See <a href="#Standon">Standon</a>.) The six Baesh Almshouses were built and endowed +by his son, Sir Edward Baesh. Several brasses, some mutilated, are in +the church, notably one near the altar-rails to William Saraye or +Saxaye, late of “Grais In” (d. 1581). <i>Stansteadbury</i>, a huge gabled +mansion, largely rebuilt, stands in extensive grounds, and was the home +of the Baeshs and of their successors, the Feildes.</p> + +<p><i>Stapleford</i>, a village on the river Beane, is 3 miles N.N.W. from +Hertford. The church is Perp. with N. porch; it was enlarged nearly +fifty years ago, when the present tower was added.</p> + +<p><a name="Stevenage" id="Stevenage"></a>STEVENAGE, a town on the Great North Road, has shifted from its original +position. It once stood farther N.E. and close to the church; but after +a terrible fire which destroyed a large proportion of its houses the +village was gradually rebuilt more directly on the famous old coaching +road. The first paper mill in England is said to have been built in this +parish. Several of its inns were standing when the regular coaches were +on the road.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo025" name="illo025"></a> + <img src="images/illo025.png" + alt="STEVENAGE CHURCH" + title="STEVENAGE CHURCH" + height="600" width="344"/> + <p class="caption">STEVENAGE CHURCH</p> +</div> + +<p>The old Church of St. Nicholas, ¾ mile N.E., is reached through an +avenue of limes and chestnuts, headed by a new lich-gate. It is largely +E.E. Note the octagonal pillars and pointed arches of the nave and the +two small chapels attached to the chancel. The font at the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a>[Pg 205]</span>W. end is +under an Early Norman arch. There are several modern windows of stained +glass, and a good brass, early sixteenth century, in the chancel. The +church at the S. end of the town was designed by Sir A. W. Blomfield +about sixty years back, but has since been much enlarged. Half a mile +farther S. on the main road are six almost equidistant mounds, thought +to be of Danish origin.</p> + +<p>At the old Castle Inn, E. side of High Street, great numbers of persons +have been shown on the rafters in a barn the coffin of Henry Trigg, +whose will was proved in 1724; one of its provisions was that his body +should not be buried, but disposed of in that way. Little more than a +mile N.W. from the station, at Redcoats Green, stood, until 1893, +“Elmwood House,” the home of the Hermit of Hertfordshire. This man, +James Lucas, was descended from a good family, but for reasons never +satisfactorily explained he lived alone, and in a most filthy condition, +from October, 1849, to April, 1874. A concise and reliable account of +this peculiar man is issued by Messrs. Paternoster and Hales of Hitchin.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stocking Pelham</span>, on the Essex border (5½ miles N.E. from +Braughing Station, G.E.R.), has an E.E. church dating from early +fourteenth century; it has no tower. The chancel was restored in 1864. +The manor is very ancient, and was held by Simon de Furneaux in the +reign of Edward I., but the village now shows little of interest.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a>[Pg 206]</span><i>Swangles</i> (2¼ miles N.E. from Ware) is a small hamlet a little S. from +the river Rib.</p> + +<p><a name="Minsden" id="Minsden"></a><i>Symonds Green</i> (¾ mile S.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is a hamlet +between the Great North Road and the ruins of Minsden Chapel.</p> + +<p><i>Symonds Hyde</i> Farm and Wood are in a pleasant district, very +diversified, a little S.W. from Brocket Hall Park. Smallford and +Hatfield Station (G.N.R.) are from 2 to 3 miles S. and S.W. +respectively.</p> + +<p><i>Tea Green</i>, a hamlet near the Beds border, lies between Breachwood +Green and Putteridge Bury.</p> + +<p><i>Tednambury</i> and <i>Tednam Mill</i> are on the river Stort and right on the +Essex border. Sawbridgeworth Station (G.E.R.) is 1 mile S.</p> + +<p><a name="Tewin" id="Tewin"></a><span class="smcap">Tewin</span> (about 2 miles S.E. from Welwyn Station, G.N.R.) is most +charmingly situated on high ground above the river Maran. The village is +divided into the Upper and Lower Green; the church, ¼ mile from the +latter, stands on a hill that slopes steeply to the river. Note the +altar-tomb in churchyard to Lady Anne Grimston (d. 1710). The tomb is +forced asunder by ash and sycamore trees growing together, a +circumstance popularly attributed to the sceptical opinions of Lady +Anne, who is said to have denied the doctrine of immortality, and to +have expressed the wish that such a phenomenon should happen if the +doctrine were indeed true. The church, which looks very old, is of +flint, brick and rubble, with a large <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>[Pg 207]</span>diamond-faced clock on one side +of the tower. In the S. porch (entrance blocked up) is the marble +monument to Sir Joseph Sabine (d. 1739); who fought under Marlborough. +Note the pyramid, 15 feet high, and the recumbent effigy, dressed as a +Roman soldier. There is also in the S. aisle a good brass to one Thomas +Pygott (d. 1610), and a slab with an imperfect Lombardic inscription to +Walter de Louthe. <i>Tewin Water</i>, in the park, N.W., is prettily +surrounded by trees. Beautiful walks may be taken in almost any +direction, especially in the trend of the river Maran towards Digswell +and Welwyn.</p> + +<p><i>Tharbes End</i> is 1½ mile N.W. from Sawbridgeworth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Theobald’s Park.</span> (See <a href="#WalthamCross">Waltham Cross</a>.)</p> + +<p><a name="Therfield" id="Therfield"></a><span class="smcap">Therfield</span> (3 miles S.E. from Ashwell Station, G.N.R.) was, +according to Dugdale’s <i>Monasticon Anglicanum</i>, given to the church of +Ramsey by Etheric, Bishop of Sherbourne, about 980, and Chauncy +“guesses” that an abbot of Ramsey built Therfield church. The present +church is a modern Dec. structure, a little W. from the centre of the +scattered village. The <i>Icknield Way</i> skirts the parish on the N. and +many Roman relics have been discovered in the neighbourhood. There are +also several tumuli in the parish, which lies on high, chalky soil.</p> + +<p><a name="Thorley" id="Thorley"></a><span class="smcap">Thorley</span> (2 miles S.W. from Bishop’s Stortford) can show a good +Norman doorway on the S. side of the little church; note the dog-tooth +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>[Pg 208]</span>moulding and twisted nook-shafts. The remainder of the building is +largely E.E.; there is a piscina in the chancel and—at the W. +entrance—a niche for a holy water basin. The font, as at Bishop’s +Stortford, was a modern discovery. Thorley Wash and Thorley Street are +between the church and the G.E.R.</p> + +<p><a name="Throcking" id="Throcking"></a><span class="smcap">Throcking</span> (2 miles N.W. from Buntingford Station, G.E.R.) +stands on a hill. The church is E.E. and Dec., except the upper part of +the tower, of brick, added in 1660. The monuments include one by +Nollekens and one by Rysbrack, to members of the Elwes family, of whose +manor house there are still some traces adjacent to the <i>Hall Farm</i>. The +walk N.W. to Baldock, by way of Julians Park (7 to 8 miles), leads +across open, breezy country.</p> + +<p><a name="Thundridge" id="Thundridge"></a><span class="smcap">Thundridge</span> and <span class="smcap">Wade’s Mill</span> are on the Old North Road, +about 2 miles N. from Ware. The river Rib crosses the road at Wade’s +Mill. The present parish church, E.E. in style, was built about seventy +years ago, close to the bridge over the Rib; the tower of the old +church; “Little St. Mary’s,” with a Norman arch stands in the lower +meadows ½ mile E. On the W. side of the Old North Road, close to Wade’s +Mill, a low obelisk marks the spot where Thomas Clarkson resolved to +give his life to the cause of the abolition of slavery.</p> + +<p><i>Titmore Green</i> is 1½ mile N.W. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.</p> + +<p><a name="Tittenhanger" id="Tittenhanger"></a><i>Tittenhanger.</i> (See <a href="#LondonColney">London Colney</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Todd’s Green</i> adjoins Titmore Green.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a>[Pg 209]</span><i>Tonwell</i>, on the main road from Ware or Stevenage, is a hamlet near +the river Rib. It has a modern chapel-of-ease. Ware is 2½ miles S.E.</p> + +<p><a name="Totteridge" id="Totteridge"></a><span class="smcap">Totteridge</span>, on the Middlesex border, is 1 mile W. from the +Station (G.N.R.). Richard Baxter lived here for a short time. The +neighbourhood is well wooded and very pleasing to the eye. The church, +on the hill-top, dates only from 1790; but the site was occupied by an +earlier structure. The memorials are of no historic interest; but near +the enormous yew tree in the churchyard stands the tomb of the first +Lord Cottenham (d. 1851). Near by, too, lies Sir Lucas Pepys, physician +to George III. (d. 1830). <i>Totteridge Park</i>, W. from the village, was +the residence of Baron Bunsen, and of the above-mentioned Lord +Cottenham; the large, plain structure in which they lived, recently in +part rebuilt, was erected about a century ago, taking the place of the +fine old manor house, for some generations the home of the Lee family. +At <i>Copped Hall</i>, near the church, the late Cardinal Manning was born in +1808.</p> + +<p>TRING is the most westerly place of any importance in Herts. The station +(L.&N.W.R.) is nearly 2 miles E. from the town, which is sheltered on +the N.W. by the chalk hills, a fresh spur of which crops out 3 mile N.E. +at Aldbury (<i><a href="#Aldbury">q.v.</a></i>). The church (Perp.) stands near the centre of the +town and is fortunate in having been restored under the direction of Mr. +Bodley in 1882. It is an <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>[Pg 210]</span>embattled, flint structure; the tower has a +corner turret and is, like that at Hitchin, unusually massive. Note (1) +the clustered columns of the nave, (2) the quaint corbels, (3) the +large, imposing monument to Sir William Gore and his wife (d. 1707 and +1705 respectively); Sir William was Lord Mayor of London; (4) good Perp. +windows in each aisle.</p> + +<p>Tring was formerly a considerable centre of the straw-plait industry, +which is still pursued to a less extent. The place is of great +antiquity, <i>Treung</i> hundred dating from the days of Alfred the Great. +William I. gave it to Robert Earl of Ewe, and Stephen kindly bestowed it +upon the monks of Faversham, “in perpetual Alms for the Health of the +Souls of Maud his Queen and all faithful People”. Edward II. granted to +Tring market rights.</p> + +<p><i>Tring Park</i> (property of Hon. N. C. Rothschild) is surrounded by +perhaps the most exquisite woods—largely of beech—in the whole county. +Much altered in modern times, it is said to have been designed by Wren, +and to have been visited by Charles II. The park is well kept, and +contains many living curiosities placed here by Lord Rothschild, a lover +of natural history. The <i>Museum</i>, at the top of Akeman Street, +containing a fine zoological collection, is the outcome of his +lordship’s energy and benevolence. The <i>Museum House</i>, to which it is +attached, is a prettily designed structure of red brick, with gables.</p> + +<p><i>Tring, Little</i>, is a hamlet 1¼ mile N.W. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a>[Pg 211]</span>from the town, and Tring +Grove, a hamlet 1¼ mile N.E. The former is near the large reservoirs, +upon which several of the rare birds mentioned in the Introduction +(<a href="#IntroIV" >Section IV.</a>) were observed.</p> + +<p><i>Trowley Bottom</i> (3 miles N.W. from Redbourn Station, M.R.) is a hamlet +a little S. from Flamstead, in one of the most thoroughly rural +districts in the county. The Roman <i>Watling Street</i> (St. +Albans-Dunstable road) is 1 mile N.E.</p> + +<p><i>Turnford</i> (1¼ mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in +Cheshunt parish, on the New River. <i>Broxbourne Bury Park</i> is 1 mile N.</p> + +<p><a name="TwoWaters" id="TwoWaters"></a><i>Two Waters</i> owes its name to its position at the junction of two small +rivers—the Gade and the Bulbourne. It is in Hemel Hempstead parish, and +about 1 mile E. from Boxmoor Station.</p> + +<p><i>Tyttenhanger.</i> (See <a href="#Tittenhanger">Tittenhanger</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Upwick Green</i> (4 miles N.W. from Bishop’s Stortford) is a hamlet on the +Essex border. <i>Hadham Hall</i> (see <a href="#LittleHadham">Little Hadham</a>) is 1 mile S.</p> + +<p><a name="Verulam" id="Verulam"></a>VERULAM. Of the old Roman <i>municipium</i> (<i>Verulamium</i>) there now remains +above ground little more than some large fragments of crumbling wall in +the valley of the Ver, immediately S.W. from St. Albans. Passing under +the old Gatehouse and crossing the bridge at the Silk Mill the visitor, +instead of turning right and following the course of the Ver, should +keep straight on and pass the small <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>[Pg 212]</span>gate into Verulam Woods. On his +right as he follows the broad footpath will be the outer E. wall of the +Roman city; on his left what appears a long gorge, overgrown by bushes +and trees of many species, was once the <i>fosse</i>. Note the great +thickness and solidity of the walls, and the tile-like bricks, similar +to those in the Abbey tower, mingled with flints. Presently both wall +and fosse turn sharply W. and may be followed in that direction for a +considerable distance. The walls may also be traced at other spots +farther W., particularly a large mass known as Gorhambury Block, +believed to mark the boundary of the <i>municipium</i> in that direction.</p> + +<p>It has been mentioned in the Introduction (<a href="#IntroIX" >Section IX.</a>) that the only +Roman theatre known to have existed in England stood in this +neighbourhood. Its remains were discovered rather more than seventy +years ago in a field immediately W. from St. Michael’s Church; nothing +is now to be seen, for the excavations have been again covered. The +discovery included that of the stage, somewhat narrow, the <i>auditorium</i>, +with many rows of seats, and portions of the frescoed walls. Many coins +were found among the ruins.</p> + +<p>Mention must be made of the fact that the Roman <i>Verulamium</i> was the +scene of the awful massacre in the time of Boadicea, when the Queen of +the Iceni, with a great number of followers, slew alike the British and +Roman inhabitants and partially destroyed the city (<span class="smcap lowercase">A.D.</span> 61). +An account of this is in the <i>Annals</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>[Pg 213]</span>of Tacitus. The place was +subsequently rebuilt and occupied by the Saxons, who called it +<i>Watlingceaster</i>, or <i>Werlamceaster</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Wade’s Mill.</i> (See <a href="#Thundridge">Thundridge</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Wakely</i> (2 miles W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) is a hamlet in +Westmill parish, consisting of a farm and a few cottages.</p> + +<p><a name="Walkern" id="Walkern"></a><span class="smcap">Walkern</span> (4½ miles E. from Stevenage) is a large village, with +many picturesque nooks and cottages. The river Beane skirts it on the E. +side. The manor is very ancient; Chauncy speaks of “Walkerne” as a town, +and mentions a mill which stood in his day (1632-1719) at its S. end, +presumably where Walkern Mill now stands. The church, on a knoll sloping +to the Beane, is mostly Perp., but retains Norman work in the S. aisle; +the chancel is modern, E.E. in style. The effigy in Purbeck marble in a +recess of S. wall, of a knight in chain mail, is thought to represent +one of the Lanvalei family. If so, it forms an interesting link with a +remote past, for in the reign of King John one Alan Basset paid a +hundred marks to that monarch, and gave him a palfrey “that his daughter +might marry the heir of William de Lanvalley”. There are also effigies +on brass to the Humberstone family (sixteenth century). <i>Walkern Hall</i> +(1 mile S.E.) stands in a small but pretty park; <i>Walkern Bury</i> (1 mile +E.) can still show some remains of a castle.</p> + +<p><a name="Wallington" id="Wallington"></a><span class="smcap">Wallington</span> (3½ miles E. from Baldock) lies in one of the most +quiet districts of the county, a district almost entirely agricultural. +The village is small; a few cottages are ancient and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a>[Pg 214]</span>picturesque, but +there is little to notice. Take the lane opposite the Plough Inn to +reach the church, which can show a good Perp. roof and screen, and some +mutilated monuments and brasses in the chapel. The main structure is +Dec.; but the chancel was rebuilt forty years ago. A walk affording +views very characteristic of Herts may be taken from the footpath near +the walled pond adjoining the church, by bearing S.S.E. to Red Hill, +Rushden and Cottered.</p> + +<p><i>Walsworth</i>, a hamlet, is almost a suburb at the N.E. end of Hitchin, ½ +mile from the station.</p> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo026" name="illo026"></a> + <img src="images/illo026.png" + alt="WALTHAM CROSS" + title="WALTHAM CROSS" + height="600" width="349"/> + <p class="caption">WALTHAM CROSS</p> +</div> + +<p><a name="WalthamCross" id="WalthamCross"></a>WALTHAM CROSS, on the London-Cambridge road, owes its name, as is well +known, to the Cross which Edward I. erected to the memory of Queen +Eleanor about 1¼ mile W. from Waltham Abbey. The cross stands a little +W. from Waltham Station (G.E.R.), where the above-mentioned road meets +that which leads E. to the Abbey. Although frequently restored it is +perhaps even now more complete than any other Eleanor Cross still +existing. (That erected at St. Albans, as already stated, was destroyed +about 200 years ago.) It is, I believe, disputed as to whether it was +designed by Pietro Cavalini or not; it was completed in 1294. It is +hexagonal in shape, of three stages, diminishing from basement to +summit; the details of its sculpture can be readily seized by examining +Mr. New’s drawing. The restoration of 1833 was worked in Bath stone; +this was largely replaced by new material, in Ketton <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a>[Pg 215]</span>stone, only a +few years ago, at which time the Old Falcon Inn, which projected almost +to the cross, was pulled down, thus affording a view of the monument +from all sides.</p> + +<p>The Four Swans, close to the cross, dates from 1260, as is testified on +the large, quaint sign-board which swings above the road; but only a few +portions of the present structure are of any great antiquity. There is a +modern church a little N. from the cross; but much of the district +commonly called Waltham is in Essex. Of great interest to visitors, +however, and about 1 mile W. from the Cross, is <i>Theobald’s Park</i>, a +brick mansion erected about 150 years back by Sir G. W. Prescott, Bart. +At one of the entrances to the park stands Temple Bar, brought here from +Fleet Street and erected in its present position in 1888. The house does +not occupy the site of the historic manor house visited by so many +sovereigns, which stood on a slight eminence some distance to the N.W. +It was William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley, who commenced to build +that famous mansion in 1560, and enlarged it considerably when he found +it pleasant in the eyes of many persons of high degree. Queen Elizabeth +was frequently a visitor at Theobalds. It was Burghley’s son, Robert +Cecil, who entertained James I. here as that monarch was on his way to +London and the English Crown, and James became so pleased with the house +and its surroundings that he obtained it from Cecil, giving him the +royal manor of Hatfield in its stead. It was from <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>[Pg 216]</span><i>Theobalds</i> that +Charles I. set out to raise his standard at Nottingham (1642). The house +was partially destroyed during the turmoil that ensued; after the +Restoration it was given by Charles II. to George Monk. It was +subsequently the property of the Earl of Portland and of several other +persons.</p> + +<p><a name="Ware" id="Ware"></a>WARE was for a long period, and is perhaps now, the centre of the malt +trade in Herts, but brickmaking is also extensively carried on. The +river Lea skirts the town on the S. side, and is crossed by an iron +bridge near the Barge Inn. The High Street displays many new houses and +shops, but by turning into the smaller by-ways visitors may find quaint +cottages and picturesque nooks and corners. The town is very ancient, +but contained only a few persons at the time of the Conquest.</p> + +<p>The cruciform church of St. Mary has been much restored; the body of the +present structure is Dec.; but the tower and chancel are Perp. Note (1) +the carved oak screen separating the S. transept from the Lady-chapel; +(2) sedilia, piscina and ambries in the chapel itself; (3) octagonal +font (<i>temp.</i> Henry IV.), bearing figures of saints on its panels; (4) +mural monument in S. transept to Sir Richard Fanshawe; (5) brass to W. +Pyrry or Pyrey (d. 1470) and his wives Agnes and Alice, the inscription +was apparently never completed; (6) curious brass figure near pulpit. +There is also a modern church in the New Road, E.E. in style, of Kentish +Rag and Bath Stone.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>[Pg 217]</span>There was a Franciscan Priory a little W. from the church, which, +although sometimes said to have been founded by Margaret, Countess of +Leicester (<i>temp.</i> Henry III.), was probably of much earlier foundation, +though doubtless enlarged by that lady. It fell into decay after the +Dissolution, but some remains of the old buildings are still to be seen +at <i>Ware Priory</i>, a mansion occupying the site. The property formed a +separate manor, which was given to the Countess of Richmond by her son, +Henry VII.</p> + +<p>Ware is not without literary association. The Johnny Gilpin, on the road +to Amwell, commemorates the hero of Cowper’s ballad; Pepys mentions his +visits to the town on several occasions; Dick Turpin, as the story runs +in Ainsworth’s <i>Rookwood</i>, passed through Ware in his famous ride to +York; Godwin, who figures so largely in the Lamb literature, was for +some years the Independent minister of the town. By a long ascent N. +from the town, we reach, by turning right, the hamlet of <i>Ware Side</i>, +picturesquely scattered over a slight depression close to <i>Widford</i> +(<i><a href="#Widford">q.v.</a></i>). W. from the town is <i>Ware Park</i>, a mansion on a beautiful +eminence.</p> + +<p><i>Warren’s Green</i> (about 4 miles N.E. from Stevenage Station, G.N.R.) is +a small hamlet.</p> + +<p><i>Water End</i>, on the river Gade, is on the S.W. confines of Gaddesden +Park. There are also hamlets of the same name (1) close to Ayot Station, +G.N.R.; (2) at the E. extremity of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>[Pg 218]</span>Mimms Park, 2 miles N.W. from +Potter’s Bar Station (Middlesex).</p> + +<p><i>Waterford</i> and <i>Waterford Marsh</i> are in Bengeo parish, on the river +Beane. On the marsh is some grazing common, free to all parishioners.</p> + +<p><i>Waterside</i> is the name of a few cottages (1) on the river Gade, near +King’s Langley village; (2) at Mill Green, 1 mile N.E. from Hatfield.</p> + +<p><a name="Watford" id="Watford"></a>WATFORD, including its quickly rising suburbs, is much the largest town +in Hertfordshire. The Colne crosses the high road where it dips before +rising towards Bushey, and Chauncy says that the town derives its name +from the Wet Ford by which the river is crossed. The building of the +Junction Station (L.&N.W.R.), N.E. from the High Street, did much to +facilitate the growth of Watford and extend its trade; the railroad +diverges S.W. to Rickmansworth only, and N.E. to Bricket Wood, Park +Street and St. Albans; the main line from London passes through a long +tunnel before reaching King’s Langley Station. The antiquities of the +town itself are less interesting and indeed less known than those of +other towns in the county, and Chauncy, <i>e.g.</i>, finds little to say +about it. The manor was long held by the abbots of St. Albans; then it +became Crown property, and after several changes of ownership passed to +William, fourth Earl of Essex, whose descendants are still lords of the +manor.</p> + +<p>The parish church, on a small yard adjoining the S. side of the High +Street, is Perp., and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>[Pg 219]</span>was well restored about fifty years ago; with its +<i>Katherine-</i> and <i>Essex Chapels</i> it forms a large and imposing +structure. The latter chapel was built in 1595 by Bridget, Countess of +Bedford. Its monuments are very numerous and comprise (1) to Sir Charles +Morison, Kt. (d. 1599), and Dorothy his wife; note the fine kneeling +effigies; (2) to Sir Charles Morison, K.B., son of the foregoing (d. +1628), and the Hon. Mary (Hicks) his wife, with recumbent effigies one +above the other, and attendant figures of a daughter and two sons (note +the Corinthian columns which support the canopy overshadowing the +whole); both these Morison monuments were the work of Nicholas Stone, +mentioned in Walpole’s <i>Anecdotes</i>; (3) altar-tomb to the founder of the +chapel (d. 1600); (4) altar-tomb with Tuscan columns and recumbent +effigy to Elizabeth, wife of Sir William Russell (d. 1611). Among the +brasses are those to (1) Henry Dickson (d. 1610); George Miller (d. +1613) and Anthony Cooper, “servants to Sir Charles Morryson, Kt.”; (2) +imperfect, Hugo de Holes, Justice of the King’s Bench (d. 1415), and +Margaretta his wife (d. 1416); (3) Henry Baldwyn of Reedheath (d. 1601), +Alice, his wife, and three children; (4) James Moss, a messenger to +George II. (d. 1758).</p> + +<p>There are modern churches: (1) St. John’s, in the Sutton Road, a Gothic +edifice completed in 1893; (2) St. Andrew’s, near the Junction, E.E. in +design, with a good stained glass <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>[Pg 220]</span>window in the S. aisle, and a +beautiful Roman Catholic church by Bentley, architect of Westminster +cathedral. In Beechen Grove is one of the finest Nonconformist (Baptist) +chapels in the county; it dates from 1878 and is Italian in design. +Market day is on Tuesday.</p> + +<p>CASHIOBURY PARK stretches from the N.W. end of Watford, +reaching—together with Grove Park, which it joins—to the parting of +the ways at Langleybury Church (4 miles N.W. from Watford Old Church). +It is crossed from N. to S. by the river Gade. The present mansion dates +from 1800; it was built by Wyatt for the fifth Earl of Essex. Disposed +around an open courtyard, its many handsome apartments make a noble +appearance; what was formerly part of the N. wing of the old mansion +built by Sir Richard Morrison and his son Charles in the sixteenth +century is still retained, although that house was largely rebuilt by +the first earl, from designs furnished by Hugh May. There is a fine +library, and three smaller ones, the collection of books being very +valuable; but in the estimation of many the pictures are still more so. +Among them may be named: (1) Arthur Lord Capel and his family, C. +Janssens; this was the Capel who defended Colchester and was beheaded in +1649; (2) Charles II., by Lely; (3) fifth Earl of Essex as a boy with +his sister, by Reynolds, in frame carved by Grinling Gibbons; (4) +Countess of Ranelagh, full length, by <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a>[Pg 221]</span>Kneller; (5) portrait by Rubens, +probably of Charlotte de la Tremouille, afterwards Countess of Derby; +(6) “Moll Davis” (actress), by Lely. There are many others, especially +further portraits of the Capel family. The park and grounds are +beautifully laid out. The park is open to the public; but the house is +shown only by special request.</p> + +<p><a name="Watton" id="Watton"></a><span class="smcap">Watton</span> or <span class="smcap">Watton at Stone</span> is a large village on the +Hertford-Stevenage road and the river Beane, 3½ miles S.E. from +Knebworth Station, G.N.R. Its position is very central, the roads from +Ware, Hertford, Great and Little Munden, Walkern, Stevenage, Welwyn and +Tewin all converging within the area of the main street. The church, at +the S. end of the village, is Perp.; it was entirely restored in 1851. +Note (1) piscina and triple sedilia in chancel; (2) doors formerly +leading to rood loft; (3) curious tombstone, E.E., in the churchyard; +(4) E. window of stained glass, dating from the Restoration; (5) +memorial window in the S. aisle to Lady Catherine Barrington. The +brasses are unusually old and interesting, <i>e.g.</i>, (1) with canopied +effigy, to Sir Philip Peletot (d. 1361); (2) to Sir E. Bardolf (d. +1455); the effigy is that of his wife, his own having been long missing; +(3) to John Boteler (Butler) and family (1514). The Boteler family, to +whom there are many other memorials in the church, lived for many +generations in the manor house of Woodhall, burnt in 1771. The house +stood on high <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a>[Pg 222]</span>ground in the beautiful <i>Woodhall Park</i>, E. from Watton +Church, on the site occupied by the present fine mansion (Abel Smith, +Esq., J.P.). The Beane flows through the park and has been widened to +form a large sheet of water S. from the house.</p> + +<p><i>Welham Green</i> is between Hatfield- and Mimms Parks, 2 miles S. from +Hatfield Station.</p> + +<p><i>Wellbury</i> is 3 miles W. from Hitchin. <i>Wellbury House</i> (modern) stands +in a small park; two small places of few inhabitants, called “Old” and +“New” Wellbury, lie on the N.E. outskirts of the Park.</p> + +<p>WELWYN, a small town in the Maran Valley, can show little of interest +beyond many quaint cottages, and the church, famous as that in which Dr. +Edward Young, author of <i>Night Thoughts</i>, officiated from 1730 to 1765. +He was buried in the church; the mural memorial to him was erected by +his son. The church is Dec., with E.E. portions; the piscina in the +chancel is ancient, the sedilia is modern. An inventory of the church +furniture, taken in 1541, shows that there were formerly three altars in +it. The avenue of limes in the rectory grounds was planted by Young; +there is a Latin inscription to the poet on a pedestal at its upper end. +His son was visited here by Dr. Johnson and James Boswell.</p> + +<p>The walk S.E. to the station (1¼ mile) commands a fine view of the Great +Northern viaduct of forty arches over the deeper portion of the Maran +Valley. On the opposite (left) side of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>[Pg 223]</span>the road is <i>Locksleys</i>, a good +mansion by the river side, surrounded by charming grounds. One mile S. +is <i>The Frythe</i>, long the residence of the Wilshere family; at a rather +less distance N. is <i>Danesbury</i>, a prettily designed mansion in a small +park.</p> + +<p>“King Etheldred ... willing to relieve his people from the barbarous +usuage and the inhuman actions of the insulting Danes ... sent +instructions to the Governors of all cities, boroughs and towns in his +dominions, commanding, that at a certain hour upon the feast of St. +Brice, all the Danes should be massacred; and common fame tells us that +this massacre began at a little town called Welwine in Hertfordshire, +within twenty-four miles of London, in the year 1012, from which Act, +’tis said this Vill received the name of Welwine, because the Weal of +this county (as it was then thought) was there first won; but the Saxons +long before called this town Welnes, from the many springs which rise in +this Vill; for in old time Wells in their language were term’d Welnes.”</p> + +<p>One of the springs in the neighbourhood, now disused, was famous in +Young’s day for its chalybeate waters.</p> + +<p><i>West End</i> is a hamlet 2 miles S.W. from Cole Green Station, G.N.R. It +lies close to the N.W. corner of <i>Bedwell Park</i>, with the river Lea 1 +mile N.</p> + +<p><i>West Hyde</i>, in the extreme S.W. of the county, near the river Colne, +has a modern cruciform church, Italian in style.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a>[Pg 224]</span><a name="Westmill" id="Westmill"></a><span class="smcap">Westmill</span>, a church and picturesque cluster of cottages in a +hollow a little W. from the Buntingford Road, is 1½ mile S. from that +town. The river Rib runs between the church and the station (G.E.R.). +The manor is ancient; it was given by William I. to Robert de Olgi. +Nathanial Salmon, author of a <i>History of Hertfordshire</i> published in +1728, was once curate here.</p> + +<p>The church very probably dates from the end of the thirteenth century, +and is an E.E. flint structure. There are some old slabs in the chancel +to the Bellenden family, and one on the nave floor bearing an +inscription to one Thomas de Leukenor (?).</p> + +<p><i>Westmill Green</i> is a hamlet 1½ mile S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.</p> + +<p><a name="Weston" id="Weston"></a><span class="smcap">Weston</span>, a large village 3 miles S.E. from Baldock, has an +interesting, restored church, dating from about 1200. It has a N. +transept, in which are two good Norman windows; a piscina, E.E., is in +the nave. The massive embattled tower, which carries an octagonal, N.E. +turret, was rebuilt in 1867. In the churchyard may be seen two small +stones, about four yards apart, which, according to local tradition, +mark the grave of the Weston giant. The church was once a property of +the Knights Templars. There is what seems a second village just where a +narrow footpath leads from the Lufen Hall Road to the church, which +stands ½ mile E. from the long main street. Many folk may still be +noticed plaiting in the neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>[Pg 225]</span><i>Weston Dane End</i> (1½ mile S. from the above village) is a hamlet on +the road to Walkern.</p> + +<p><i>Westwick Row</i> (2 miles S.E. from Hemel Hempstead) is a hamlet near +Leverstock Green, in a charming neighbourhood.</p> + +<p><a name="Wheathampstead" id="Wheathampstead"></a><span class="smcap">Wheathampstead</span> lies in a hollow, in the valley of the Lea. +Cyclists approaching the village from St. Albans by way of Sandridge and +No Man’s Land must beware of the steep descent from the Old Red Cow to +the Swan Inn. The place undoubtedly owes its name to the fine wheat +grown in the neighbourhood; it is very picturesque, particularly around +the church and vicarage, and by the waterside towards <i>Brocket Hall</i>.</p> + +<p>The cruciform church, W. from the centre of the village, is E.E. and +Dec. with a few Perp. features. A doorway in the <i>Brocket Chapel</i> is +supposed to be Saxon, but I cannot say whether the supposition is +correct; the chapel also contains an altar-tomb with effigies of Sir +John Brocket and his wife, Margaret, bearing date 1543, and a piscina in +the S. wall. A brass of much interest is that to Hugh Bostock and his +wife, Margaret (<i>circa</i> 1450), showing their figures in robes. These +persons were the parents of John de Wheathampsted. (See <a href="#StAlbans">St. Albans</a>.) An +old marble tablet is to John Heyworth (d. 1558) and his wife Joan. Note +also the monumental effigies in N. transept to Sir John Garrard, Bart. +(d. 1637), and his wife Elizabeth (d. 1632). The <i>reredos</i> is very fine.</p> + +<p>Forty years ago the village was truly rural, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>[Pg 226]</span>but the rebuilding of the +old mill between the church and station (G.N.R. branch from Hatfield to +Dunstable) and the erection of several modern shops in the main street +has altered its appearance. <i>Wheathampstead House</i>, close to the +station, is the seat of Earl Cavan; <i>Lamer Park</i>, a little N., slopes +pleasantly towards the fine home of A. G. B. Cherry-Garrard, Esq.</p> + +<p>Mention must be made of the curious bronze vessel of the Anglo-Saxon +period, resembling a teapot, found in the neighbourhood some years ago. +It is figured and described in the recently published <i>Victoria History +of Hertfordshire</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Wheathampstead Cross</i> (1½ mile S.E. from Harpenden Station, M.R.) is 2 +miles S.W. from the above village. It contains nothing but a few +cottages.</p> + +<p><i>Whempstead</i>, a hamlet in the centre of the county, is not easily +reached, being about 5 miles E. from Knebworth Station, G.N.R., and +rather farther N.W. from Ware. The so-called <i>Whempstead Chapel</i>, +recently demolished, was a small cottage, but it doubtless stood near +the site of an old chapel “founded and endowed about the beginning of +the thirteenth century by the family of Aguillon”.</p> + +<p><i>White Barns</i>, near the Essex border, is a hamlet ¾ mile N. from +Furneaux Pelham (<i><a href="#FurnPelham">q.v.</a></i>).</p> + +<p><i>Whitwell</i> (4½ miles S.W. from Stevenage) is strictly a hamlet, but is a +place of some size, scattered along the S. bank of the river Maran. The +nearest parish church is at St. Paul’s <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>[Pg 227]</span>Walden (<i><a href="#StPaulsWalden">q.v.</a></i>), but there is a +modern Baptist chapel near the centre of the main street, and a small +church on the Bendish Road, formerly owned by the Countess of +Huntingdon’s Connection; it is now partially disused. The mill at the E. +end of the village, near the old tan-yard, was burnt down many years +ago, but has since been rebuilt.</p> + +<p><i>Widbury</i> is 1 mile E. from Ware.</p> + +<p><a name="Widford" id="Widford"></a><span class="smcap">Widford</span>, so interesting in the eyes of all lovers of Charles +Lamb, is a small village on the river Ash, with a station (G.E.R.) a few +minutes W. from the church. Visitors, however, must remember that much +in the neighbourhood has changed since Lamb’s day. He himself recorded +the demolition of the old house “Blakesware” or, as he wrote it, +“<a name="cm14" id="cm14"></a><a class="correction" href="#corr14" +title="Original reads 'Blakemoor'">Blakesmoor</a>,” which he knew so well as a child; the church spire, +mentioned in his verses “The Grandame,” was rebuilt many years back; the +cottage at <i>Blenheim</i> close by, immortalised in <i>Rosamund Gray</i>, was +long ago rebuilt.</p> + +<p>The church is Dec. and Perp.; there are sedilia in the chancel, the roof +of which was finely painted by Miss Gosselin forty years ago, and there +is a piscina in the nave. The circular stone staircase that formerly led +to the old rood-loft was built up during restoration. The present E. +window is to the memory of John Eliot—the missionary to the +Indians—born at Nazing early in the seventeenth century. There are very +few memorials; one might almost repeat the words written of the church +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>[Pg 228]</span>two centuries ago, “In this church are no gravestones”. The manor is +very ancient and was held in the reign of William I. by the Bishop of +London.</p> + +<p><i>Wigginton</i> lies on very high ground, commanding splendid views. The +village is about 1½ mile S.W. from Tring Station, L.&N.W.R.; the church, +near the parting of the roads at its S.E. extremity, is a small flint +structure, E.E. in style, with a modern N. aisle. It has no tower. +<i>Champneys</i>, near Wigginton Common (1 mile S.), is a prettily situated +mansion, rebuilt in 1874. It was formerly the residence of the Valpy +family.</p> + +<p><i>Wilbury Hill</i>, between Ickleford and Baldock, is crossed by the Roman +Icknield Way. The <i>vallum</i>, through which the Way passes, is thought to +mark the site of a Roman camp; Stukeley’s suggestion that it was +probably the site of a British <i>oppidum</i> is questioned by Salmon +(<i>History of Hertfordshire</i>, 1728). Roman coins have been found in some +abundance in the neighbourhood, notably a silver <i>Faustina</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Wild Hill</i> is between Hatfield and Bedwell Parks.</p> + +<p><a name="Willian" id="Willian"></a><i>Willian</i>, formerly Wylie (2 miles N.E. from Hitchin Station, G.N.R.), +is very ancient, mention of it as a property dating from the times of +the Mercian kings. The village lies 1 mile W. from the Great North Road. +The church is thought to date from the Conquest, but only an arch in the +chancel is Norman. Note (1) the monument to “Edvardus Lacon” <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>[Pg 229]</span>(d. 1625), +and Joanna his wife (d. 1624); (2) small brass to Richard Goldon, a +former vicar (d. 1446—? 1417). A tiny graveyard surrounds the church. +<i>Roxley Court</i> (½ mile S.) is the property of Colonel Mortimer Hancock.</p> + +<p><i>Wilstone</i>, near the Aylesbury Canal, lies in a hollow 2 miles S.E. from +Marston Gate Station, L.&N.W.R. It has a modern church, E.E. in style, +consisting of nave only.</p> + +<p><i>Windridge</i>, a ward of St. Stephen’s parish, is 1½ mile S.W. from the +L.&N.W.R. Station at the foot of Holywell Hill, St. Albans.</p> + +<p><i>Winter Green</i> is on the N.W. confines of Knebworth Park, about 1 mile +from the church and 2 miles from the station (G.N.R.). The neighbourhood +is on high ground.</p> + +<p><i>Woodend</i> (3½ miles S.W. from Westmill Station, G.E.R.) has a numerous +population, but is, I believe, a hamlet in Ardeley parish. The modern +Chapel of St. Alban the Martyr is built largely of small stones, and has +a S. porch. <i>Walkern Park</i> is ¾ mile S.W.</p> + +<p><i>Woodhall</i> (1½ mile N.N.E. from Hatfield) is a scattered hamlet between +Stanborough and Hatfield Hyde. Two farms and several cottages bear the +name. Woodhall Woods are a little farther N.</p> + +<p><i>Woodhill</i> (about 3½ miles S.E. from Hatfield) is prettily situated, +with <i>Brookmans</i>, <i>Hatfield</i> and <i>Bedwell</i> Parks all within a short +walk. St. Mark’s Chapel-of-Ease was rebuilt in 1880, although originally +erected only in 1852 by the then Marquess of Salisbury.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>[Pg 230]</span><i>Woodside</i> is the name of at least three small places, (1) in the +neighbourhood of Hatfield, where Upper and Lower Woodside are at the +S.E. side of the park; (2) a ward in the parish of Cheshunt; (3) in the +parish of Leavesden.</p> + +<p><i>Woollen’s Brook</i>, on the Hoddesdon-Hertford road, has a tiny Mission +Church. It is a small hamlet, a little S. from Haileybury College.</p> + +<p><i>Woolmer Green</i> lies on the Great North Road, 1 mile S.E. from Knebworth +Station, G.N.R. The roads from Welwyn, Stevenage and Bramfield meet at +the S. end of the street. The hamlet is considerable.</p> + +<p><a name="Wormley" id="Wormley"></a><span class="smcap">Wormley</span> (1 mile S.W. from Broxbourne Station, G.E.R.) is on the +New River. The church is at <i>Wormley Bury</i>, ½ mile W. from the village; +it is very ancient, but was restored twenty years ago. Note (1) Norman +font; (2) small Norman doorway on N. side; (3) “The Last Supper,” by +Giacomo Palma, a fine picture over the communion table; (4) rebuilt +chancel arch; (5) Perp. windows in nave; (6) tablet on S. wall to Gough +the antiquary (d. at Enfield, 1809). Gough completed a translation of a +French history of the Bible in his thirteenth year, which was printed +for private circulation; he subsequently translated Fleury’s work on +Israelitish customs and edited Camden’s <i>Britannia</i>. He bequeathed many +MSS. to Oxford University.</p> + +<p>The church contains other modern monuments, and there are brasses (1) to +John Cleve, Rector (d. 1404); (2) to Edward Howton (d. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>[Pg 231]</span>1479), his wife +and family; (3) to John Cok, his wife and eleven sons; date uncertain, +but presumably fifteenth century. Cok or Cock was the name of a very old +family in the neighbourhood, especially at Broxbourne.</p> + +<p><a name="Wyddial" id="Wyddial"></a><span class="smcap">Wyddial</span> (1½ mile N.E. from Buntingford) was called <i>Widihale</i> +in <i>Domesday Book</i>, and was given by William I. to Hardwin de Scalers. +The walk from Buntingford up the hill to the ruined church at Layston +(<i><a href="#Layston">q.v.</a></i>), and thence to this village, leads through some of the quietest +spots in the county. The church is E.E., and stands on high ground a few +yards N. from the road and about 1 mile W. from the river Quin. It was +restored sixty years ago; but still retains two seventeenth-century +stained-glass windows in the aisle, and two Jacobean screens. The little +N. chapel of brick was built by one George Canon in 1632. The brasses +include (1) to George Gyll, Lord of the Manor (d. 1546); (2) to Dame +Margaret (Plumbe), a daughter of Sir Thomas Neville, Kt., and wife to +Sir Robert Southwell, Master of the Rolls (d. 1575). There are many +memorials to the Goulston family, several of whom were Lords of the +Manor; that to Sir Richard Goulston (d. 1686) bears a long inscription +in Latin. <i>Wyddial Hall</i>, in a small park close to the church, was the +property of the Goulstons.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Wymondley, Great</span> or <span class="smcap">Much</span>, is nearly 2 miles S.E. from +Hitchin Station, G.N.R. The church dates from early in the twelfth +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>[Pg 232]</span>century, but has been much restored. The font, the chancel arch, and +three windows in the chancel are said to be Norman; the tower is Perp. +The memorials are unimportant.</p> + +<p>The neighbourhood is interesting. The Lords of the Manor of Wymondley +Magna were formerly, as the newspapers have recently reminded us, +Cup-bearers to the King at his Coronation. Near the church are some +traces of an ancient fortification; a little S., and opposite a row of +quaint cottages with heavily thatched roofs, stands <i>Delamere House</i>, +once the property of Cardinal Wolsey, who is said to have been visited +here by Henry VIII. At the <i>Manor Farm</i>, Edward VI.—according to +tradition—once slept; the Green Man, close by, on the W. side of the +main street, has been kept by successive generations of one family for +300 years. Forty years ago several Roman urns were discovered in the +neighbourhood, and the well-preserved pavement of a Roman villa was +unearthed, subsequently, at Purwell Mill, between the village and +Hitchin. Prehistoric implements have also been found.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Wymondley, Little</span>, formerly Wymondley Parva, is 1 mile S. from +the above. The E. end of the street is crossed by the G.N.R. near the +tiny churchyard. The church is Perp.; and was largely rebuilt in 1875; +two earlier structures are thought to have occupied the site. It +contains several inscriptions, and some monuments to the Needham family +(seventeenth century). A Priory of Augustinian Canons, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>[Pg 233]</span>dedicated to St. +Mary, was founded here by Richard Argenton, in the reign of Henry III.; +it was suppressed at the Dissolution. When, in 1891, the <i>Old Priory</i> +farm-house was being altered, some portions of two E.E. arches were +disclosed, and are thought to show where the cloister of the <i>Priory</i> +stood. There is another E.E. arch in the house.</p> + +<p><a name="Yardley" id="Yardley"></a><span class="smcap">Yardley</span>. (See <a href="#Ardeley">Ardeley</a>.)</p> + +<p><i>Youngsbury.</i> (See <a href="#HighCross">High Cross</a>.)</p> + +<div class="footnotes"> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a></span> Chauncy writes: “This Vill in old Records was called +Cestrehunt, from Castrum in the Latin, which might, in all Probability, +import some castle erected here by the Romans; and the Saxons imitating +the name, though corruptly ... might from hence call it Cestrehunt”.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a></span> This Sir John Harrison erected the fine brick mansion in +Balls Park, S.E. from Hertford, once the property of Charles Townsend, +Secretary of State to George II. His widow built four almshouses at +Butchery Green, long ago decayed.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">[5]</a></span> The story of the “Maid of the Mill” is, I understand, told +in an early number of <i>Temple Bar</i>.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_6_6">[6]</a></span> <i>Hist. Antiq. of Hertfordshire</i>, etc., vol. i., p. 383, ed. +1826.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_7_7">[7]</a></span> Clutterbuck says it was erected between 1402 and 1427.</p></div> +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><span class="label"><a href="#FNanchor_8_8">[8]</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <i>Historical Records of St. Albans</i>, by A. E. Gibbs, +F.L.S., etc.; a most interesting little volume.</p></div> +</div> + +<div class="center"> + <a id="illo027" name="illo027"></a> +<a href="images/illo027.jpg"> + <img src="images/illo027_thumb.jpg" + alt="Map of Hertfordshire" + title="Map of Hertfordshire" + height="254" width="300"/> +</a> + <p class="caption">Map of Hertfordshire</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>[Pg 234]</span></p> +<hr class="biggap" /> +<h2> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>[Pg 235]</span>INDEX OF PERSONS</h2> + +<div class="index"> +<p><a id="IX_A" name="IX_A"></a>A</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Abbot d’Aubeny, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a> +<ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Eadmer, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + <li>—— Ealdred, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + <li>—— Geoffrey de Gorham, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> + <li>—— Hugh de Eversden, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> + <li>—— John de Berkhampstead, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— John de Cella, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + <li>—— John de Hertford, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— John de Marinis, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— John de la Moote, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> + <li>—— John Wheathampsted, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li> + <li>—— Leofstan, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> + <li>—— Michael de Mentmore, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— Paul de Caen, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> + <li>—— Ralph, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + <li>—— Ramryge, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> + <li>—— Robert de Gorham, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> + <li>—— Roger de Norton, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— Symon, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + <li>—— Thomas de la Mare, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> + <li>—— Ulsinus, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> + <li>—— Warren de Cambridge, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + <li>—— William de Trumpyntone, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> + <li>—— Wm. Wallingford, <a href="#Page_190">190</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Adane (brass), <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Adrian IV., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Aguillon family, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> +<li>Alan the Red, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Alban, a rector (brass), <a href="#Page_103">103</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— St., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Albyn (brass), <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> +<li>Aldenham, Lord, <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> +<li>Alford, Lady M., <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> +<li>Alfred the Great, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> +<li>Altham, Helen, <a href="#Page_159">159</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir J., <a href="#Page_159">159</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Alwin the Thane, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Amphibalus, St., <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Anestie, Rich. de, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Anne of Bohemia, <a href="#Page_136">136</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Mortimer, <a href="#Page_137">137</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Annabull' in the text">Anorbul</a>, Wm. (brass), <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Anthony, W., <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Antoninus (quoted), <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> +<li>Aram, Eugene, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> +<li>Arbuthnot, C. G., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Archer, Robt., <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Argenthem, R. de, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Argenton, Rich., <a href="#Page_233">233</a></li> +<li>Arnald the “Leveller,” <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Ascham, Roger, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li> +<li>Asser, <a href="#Page_117">117</a></li> +<li>Athelstan, <a href="#Page_51">51</a></li> +<li>Atkins, Sir E., <a href="#Page_47">47</a></li> +<li>Axtil, Henry, <a href="#Page_157">157</a></li> +<li>Aylmer, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Judith, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_B" name="IX_B"></a>B</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Babthorpe, Ralph, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Bache, Simon (brass), <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> +<li>Bacon, Francis, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>[Pg 236]</span>Bacon, Sir Nich., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li>Baesh family, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> +<li>Baker, H. W. Clinton-, <a href="#Page_69">69</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— W. R., <a href="#Page_68">68</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Baldwyn family (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Barclay, E. E., <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Bardolf, Sir E. (brass), <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Barrington family, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Bartolommeo, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Basset, Alan, <a href="#Page_213">213</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Wm., <a href="#Page_174">174</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Baugiard, Ralph, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> +<li>Baxter, Rich., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> +<li>Beaufort, Edmund, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Becket, Thomas, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Bede (quoted), <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Beel family (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Beldam, J., F.S.A., <a href="#Page_173">173</a></li> +<li>Bell, John (brass), <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Bellenden family, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li> +<li>“Belted Will Howard,” <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Benham, Canon, quoted, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Benson, Mgr. R. H., <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> +<li>Benstede, Sir J., <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Beresford family, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> +<li>Bernard de Baliol, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> +<li>Bertulf, King, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Bessemer, Sir H., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Bickerdy, Marmaduke, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>Binning, Lord, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Bishop, Mr., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Blomfield, Sir A. W., <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> +<li>Blount family, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir H., <a href="#Page_145">145</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Boadicea, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></li> +<li>Bodley, Mr. G. F., <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> +<li>Bokeland, Nich. de, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> +<li>Boleyn, Anne, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Bonham, Miss, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Bonner, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Borrell, Sir J. (brass), <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li> +<li>Bostock, Hugh, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, (brass) <a href="#Page_225">225</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Margaret (brass), <a href="#Page_225">225</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Boswell, James, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> +<li>Boteler family, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, (brass) <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Bouchier, Sir T., <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> +<li>Bowlby, A. S., <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> +<li>Bradby, Canon, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Breakspear' in the text">Brakespear</a>, Nich., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Bramfield family (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Braybroke, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Bridget, Countess, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Bridgewater family (see <a href="#IX_Egerton" >Egerton</a>)<br /> +<br /> +Brockett family, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li> +<li>Browne, Dean J., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Buckingham, Duke of, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> +<li>Bucknall family, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> +<li>Bunsen, Baron, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> +<li>Bunyan, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> +<li>Burghley, Lord, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> +<li>Burgo, Elizabeth de, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> +<li>Burgundy, Duke of, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> +<li>Burnet, Bishop, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Butterfield, W., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_C" name="IX_C"></a>C</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Cæsar family, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Calvert family, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Canon, Geo., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li><a name="IX_Capell" id="IX_Capell"></a>Capell family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Carlo Dolce, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Caroline, Queen, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +<li>Carter family (brass), <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> +<li>Cary family (brasses), <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Cassivellaunus' in the text">Cassivelaunus</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> +<li>Catherine of Arragon, <a href="#Page_148">148</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Braganza, <a href="#Page_184">184</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cavan, Earl, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></li> +<li>Cecil, Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Thomas, <a href="#Page_111">111</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Chamberlain, Sir W., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Chamber, Father (brass), <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> +<li>Chantrey (sculptor), <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Chapman, Geo., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Chapple, John, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Charlemagne, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Charles I., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— II., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Chaucer, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li> +<li>Chauncy family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir H, (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_218">218</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>[Pg 237]</span>Chester family, <a href="#Page_61">61</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Robt., <a href="#Page_173">173</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, <a href="#Page_199">199</a></li> +<li>Citroen, David, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Clarendon, Earl of, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Clarkson (charity), <a href="#Page_60">60</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Thomas, <a href="#Page_208">208</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cleve, Rev. John (brass), <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li> +<li>Clifford, Lord John, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Clinton family, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +<li>Clutterbuck, Robt. (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a></li> +<li>Clyfford, Eliza. (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir Robt. (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cobb, Rev. J. W., <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Cock, Sir H., <a href="#Page_80">80</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— (Cok) family (brasses), <a href="#Page_231">231</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cogdell, T. (brass), <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>Coke, Mildred, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> +<li>Conan, Duke of Brittany, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> +<li>Coningsby, Sir R., <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> +<li>Cooch, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Cooper, Anthony (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir A. Paston, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></li> + <li>—— Sir A. Paston Paston, <a href="#Page_116">116</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cottenham, Lord, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> +<li>Cotton, Dr., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir J., <a href="#Page_154">154</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Courtenay, Henry, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Covert, Sir H. (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> +<li>Cowper, Ann, <a href="#Page_72">72</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> + <li>—— William, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Cressye, W. and G. (brasses), <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Cromwell, Oliver, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Richard, <a href="#Page_86">86</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Crossman, Mr. Alan F., <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li>Crouchback, Edmund, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li> +<li>Crowch family, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> +<li>Cudworth, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Curll, William, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> +<li>Cussans, J. E., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> +<li>Cutts, Sir John, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_D" name="IX_D"></a>D</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Dacre family, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>Dacres, Robert, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>David of Scotland, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> +<li>Day family (brass), <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>De Furneaux family, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> +<li>Delawood, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> +<li>Denny, Lady M. (brass), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> +<li>De Ros family, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>De Toni family, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Desborough, Lord, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> +<li>Devereux, Robt., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li>Dickens, Chas., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Dickson, Henry (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>“Dick Turpin,” <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> +<li>Dion Cassius (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Dixon, Nich. (brass), <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Docwra family, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> +<li>Doddridge, Rev. P., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Dodyngton family (brasses), <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> +<li>Dowman family (brass), <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> +<li>Duckett, Sir G., <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> +<li>Dugdale, quoted, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> +<li>Dyer, Sir W. (brass), <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_E" name="IX_E"></a>E</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Ebury, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Egelwine' in the text">Edelwine</a> the Black, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Edgar, King, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Edmund de Langley, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— of Hadham, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + <li>—— St., <a href="#Page_193">193</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Edward I., <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— II., <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> + <li>—— III., <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> + <li>—— IV., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> + <li>—— VI., <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> + <li>—— Black Prince, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> + <li>—— the Elder, <a href="#Page_118">118</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li><a name="IX_Egerton" id="IX_Egerton"></a>Egerton family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> +<li>Egfrith, <a href="#Page_198">198</a></li> +<li>Eleanor, Queen, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> +<li>Eliot, John, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> +<li>Elizabeth, Queen, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> +<li>Ellis, Thos. and Grace, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Elwes family, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> +<li>Entwysel, Sir B., <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Eric (Baron Reay), <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Essex, Earls of (see <a href="#IX_Capell" >Capell</a>)<br /> +<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>[Pg 238]</span>Ethelbert, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Etheldred, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> +<li>Etheric, Bishop, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> +<li>Eustace de Mere, <a href="#Page_172">172</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Earl of Boulogne, <a href="#Page_130">130</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Evans, Sir John, K.C.B., <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> +<li>Evelyn, John, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_F" name="IX_F"></a>F</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Fanshawe, Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> +<li>Feilde family, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> +<li>Field, Dr. Nat., <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li><a name="IX_Fitzroy" id="IX_Fitzroy"></a>Fitzroy, James, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>Flambard, Simon, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Flaunden, Thos., <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Fleetwood, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Floyer (Flyer?) family, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Forester family, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Forster, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Fortescue, Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Fouke, Sir B., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Fountaine, Andrew, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> +<li>Fox, George, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Freeman, Dr., <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Frewell (Knight), <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> +<li>Frowyk family (brasses), <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_G" name="IX_G"></a>G</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Garrard, A. G. B. Cherry-, <a href="#Page_226">226</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir J. and Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_225">225</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Gaveston, Piers, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>Geoffrey, Johannes (brass), <a href="#Page_198">198</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Treasurer, <a href="#Page_46">46</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>George II., <a href="#Page_219">219</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— III., <a href="#Page_209">209</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Gernon, Robt., <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +<li>Gerrard de Furnival, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li> +<li>Giacomo Palma, <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li> +<li>Giant of Weston, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li> +<li>Gibbons, Grinling, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Gibbs, Mr. A. E., F.L.S. (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> +<li>Gildas, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Giles-Puller, G. B., <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Not found in the text">Glamis</a>, Lord, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> +<li>Glascocke, Hon. Sir W., <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> +<li>Godwin, Harold, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> +<li>Godwin, Leofwin, <a href="#Page_164">164</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— William, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Goisfride de Bech, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Goldon, Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> +<li>Gore family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> +<li>Gosselin, Miss, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> +<li>Gough the Antiquary, <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li> +<li>Goulston family, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li>Gray, James (brass), <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> +<li>Grimston family, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></li> +<li>Grimthorpe, Lord, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> +<li>Grose, F. (quoted), <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> +<li>Gyll, Geo. (brass), <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_H" name="IX_H"></a>H</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Haggard, Mr. H. Rider, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Hall, Robert, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Halsey family, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Hamilton, Hon. Geo., <a href="#Page_101">101</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Jane, <a href="#Page_101">101</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Hampden, Viscount, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>Hanbury, C. A., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Hancock, Col. M., <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> +<li>Harcourt family, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Hardwicke, Earl, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Hardwin de Scalers, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li>Harrington, Sir W., <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Harrison, Sir John, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Harvey, Sir <a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Garratt' in the text">Garrett</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Hawksmoor, Nich., <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> +<li>Helen, St., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Helle, Roger, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>Henry II., <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— III., <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> + <li>—— IV., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + <li>—— V., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> + <li>—— VI., <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> + <li>—— VII., <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + <li>—— VIII., <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> + <li>—— of Huntingdon, <a href="#Page_117">117</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Herkomer, Prof., <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li>“Hermit of Herts,” <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> +<li>Hert, James (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Heydon family, <a href="#Page_159">159</a></li> +<li>Heyworth, John and Joan, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></li> +<li>Hide family, <a href="#Page_48">48</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Leonard, <a href="#Page_131">131</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Hippolits, St., <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>[Pg 239]</span>Hogarth, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Holes, Justice (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Hollinshead' in the text">Hollinshed</a> (quoted), <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Hoore family (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> +<li>Hopkinson, Mr. J., F.L.S., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Horsley, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Horwode, Ralph (brass), <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>Hotoft, John (brass), <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> +<li>Howard of Escrick, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Howe, Lord, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></li> +<li>Howton family (brass), <a href="#Page_230">230</a></li> +<li>Hugh of Lincoln, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Hughes family (brasses), <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li>Humberstone family (brasses), <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> +<li>Humphrey, Duke of <a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Gloucester' in the text">Gloster</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Earl, <a href="#Page_195">195</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Hutchinson, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_I" name="IX_I"></a>I</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Incent, Dr. John, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li> +<li>Isabel of Castile, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> +<li>Isabella of France, <a href="#Page_119">119</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— (2nd wife, Rich. II.), <a href="#Page_120">120</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_J" name="IX_J"></a>J</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Jack o’ Legs, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li> +<li>James I., <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— II., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Janeway, James, <a href="#Page_135">135</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— John, <a href="#Page_135">135</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Janssens, C., <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Jennings, Admiral, <a href="#Page_61">61</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family, <a href="#Page_199">199</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Jerrold, Douglas, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Joan of Navarre, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> +<li>Jocelin family, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> +<li>Jocelyn, Sir R., <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +<li>John, <a href="#Page_125">125</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— “Gilpin,” <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> + <li>—— of France, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + <li>—— of Gaunt, <a href="#Page_118">118</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Johnson, Dr., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> +<li>Jones, Inigo, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Joyce, Cornet, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li> +<li>Julian the Apostate, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_K" name="IX_K"></a>K</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Katherine' in the text">Katharine</a> Tudor, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Kemp, Bishop, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Ken, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Kent family (brass), <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +<li>Kesteven, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> +<li>Kit Cat Club, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Kneller, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Knighton, Sir G., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> +<li>Knolles family (brass), <a href="#Page_150">150</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Bybsworth' in the text">Kybeworth</a>, Thos., <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_L" name="IX_L"></a>L</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Lacon, Edward and Joanna, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></li> +<li>Lamb, Chas., <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Mary, <a href="#Page_146">146</a></li> + <li>—— Sir M., <a href="#Page_114">114</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Lambard (brass), <a href="#Page_124">124</a></li> +<li>Langley, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li> +<li>Lanvalei family, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> +<li>Lawes, Sir J. B., <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Lee family, <a href="#Page_209">209</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Nathaniel, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> + <li>—— Sir Rich., <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> + <li>—— —— W. de la, <a href="#Page_46">46</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Lely, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Leoni (architect), <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>Leukenor (?), Thos., <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li> +<li>Leventhorpe family (brasses), <a href="#Page_200">200</a></li> +<li>Lewin, Earl, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> +<li>Lightfoot (Hebraist), <a href="#Page_41">41</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— J. (brass), <a href="#Page_152">152</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Limesy, Ralph, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> +<li>Long, Alderman (brass), <a href="#Page_49">49</a></li> +<li>Louis XI., <a href="#Page_66">66</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— (Dauphin), <a href="#Page_118">118</a></li> + <li>—— XVIII., <a href="#Page_173">173</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Louthe family (brasses), <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> +<li>Loyd, W. J., <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> +<li>Lucas, James, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> +<li>Luini, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Lushington family, <a href="#Page_55">55</a></li> +<li>Lyde, Sir L., <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Lytton, Bulwer, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> + <li>—— Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li><br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>[Pg 240]</span>M<br /> +<br /> +Macaulay, Lord, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Magnaville, G. de, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir Hugh de, <a href="#Page_149">149</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>“Maid of the Mill,” <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> +<li>Makery, Thos., <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> +<li>Manning, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_209">209</a></li> +<li>Margaret of Anjou, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Countess, <a href="#Page_217">217</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Marjoribanks, Edward, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li>Martin, Mr. T. H., <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Mary (March. Salisbury), <a href="#Page_112">112</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Tudor, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Mattok (brasses), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Matthew of Westminster (quoted) <a href="#Page_76">76</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Paris (quoted), <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Maundeville, Sir J., <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Maurice, Bishop, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> +<li>Mawley, Edward, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>May, Hugh, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Mayne family (brasses), <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li> +<li>Meetkerke, Sir A., <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> +<li>Melbourne, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> +<li>Miles, General, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Miller, Geo. (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>“Moll Davis,” <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Monk, General, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> +<li>Monmouth (see <a href="#IX_Fitzroy" >Fitzroy</a>)<br /> +<br /> +Montacute, <a href="#Page_67">67</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family, <a href="#Page_201">201</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>More, Sir Thos., <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> +<li>Moreton, Earl, <a href="#Page_116">116</a></li> +<li>Morison family, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Morris, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Moss, James (brass), <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Murillo, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Myddelton' in the text">Myddleton</a>, Sir Hugh, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_N" name="IX_N"></a>N</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Needham family, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> +<li>Nevil, Robt. and Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>Nevill, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_169">169</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> + <li>—— Thos., <a href="#Page_56">56</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Neville, Sir Thos., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li>Newce family (brasses), <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +<li>Newmarch, Isabel, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Newport, Edward, <a href="#Page_78">78</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Robt. (brass), <a href="#Page_97">97</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Nicholson, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Nodes family (brasses), <a href="#Page_202">202</a></li> +<li>Nollekens (sculptor), <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> +<li>Norden, J. (quoted), <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_O" name="IX_O"></a>O</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Odo, Bishop, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> +<li>Offa of Mercia, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Ogard, Andrew, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> +<li>Oldhall, Sir J., <a href="#Page_132">132</a></li> +<li>Oudeby, John (brass), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Overbury (brass), <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +<li>Owen, John, <a href="#Page_65">65</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Tudor, <a href="#Page_103">103</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_P" name="IX_P"></a>P</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Paine (architect), <a href="#Page_114">114</a></li> +<li>Palmerston, Lord, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> +<li>Parker, Dr., <a href="#Page_12">12</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family (brass), <a href="#Page_166">166</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Parr family, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Pecok, John and “Maud” (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_167">167</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Peletot, Sir P. (brass), <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Pemberton, Roger (brass), <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> +<li>Penn, William, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> +<li>Penrice, Sir H., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Pepys, Sir Lucas, <a href="#Page_209">209</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Samuel, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Percy, Henry, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> +<li>Peri, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> +<li>Perient, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_91">91</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— J., junr. (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Peter de Valoignes, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— the Great, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> + <li>—— “Wild Boy,” <a href="#Page_156">156</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Piers Gaveston, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>“Piers Shonkes,” <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li> +<li>Pietro Cavalini, <a href="#Page_214">214</a></li> +<li>Piozzi, Mrs., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Pitman, Dr., <a href="#Page_148">148</a></li> +<li>Pitt, William, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a>[Pg 241]</span>Plowden, W. C. M., <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> +<li>Plumbe, M. (brass), <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li>Plumer, Col. J., <a href="#Page_101">101</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— family, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li> + <li>—— William, <a href="#Page_101">101</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Pope (quoted), <a href="#Page_171">171</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir T., <a href="#Page_109">109</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Portland, Earl, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Poydres' in the text">Poyidres</a>, R. (brass), <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li>Poynard family (brass), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +<li>Prescott, Sir G. W., <a href="#Page_215">215</a></li> +<li>Prest, Johannes, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="'Priestly' in the text">Priestley</a>, Wm., <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Prior, Matt. (quoted), <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> +<li>Pryor, A. Reginald, <a href="#Page_15">15</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Charity, <a href="#Page_60">60</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Pulter family, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, (brasses) <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Pygott, T. (brass), <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> +<li>Pyke, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Pym family, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Pyrry family (brasses), <a href="#Page_216">216</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_R" name="IX_R"></a>R</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Radcliffe, F. A. D., <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> +<li>Randolph, Thos., <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Ranelagh, Lady, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Ransom, W., <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>Raphael, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Raven, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Ravenscroft family, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li> +<li>Rawdon, Sir M., <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> +<li>Raymond, Lord Justice, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> +<li>Read(e) family, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> +<li>Reay, Martha, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Reed, Isaac, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Rembrandt, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> +<li>Revett (architect), <a href="#Page_57">57</a></li> +<li>Reynes, Elizabeth, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Reynolds, Sir J., <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Rhodes, Cecil, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +<li>Richard II., <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Duke of York, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> + <li>—— Earl of Cambridge, <a href="#Page_138">138</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Richmond, Countess, <a href="#Page_217">217</a></li> +<li>Ridley, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a></li> +<li>Robert, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_92">92</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— de Olgi, <a href="#Page_224">224</a></li> + <li>—— —— Sigillo, <a href="#Page_46">46</a></li> + <li>—— Earl of Ewe, <a href="#Page_210">210</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Robins (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> +<li>Robinson, Mrs., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Roe, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Roesia, Dame, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> +<li>Roger of Wendover, <a href="#Page_37">37</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— the Monk, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_156">156</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Romanelli (sculptor), <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> +<li>“Rosamund Gray,” <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> +<li>Rothschild family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> +<li>Roubeliac (sculptor), <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Rous, T. B., <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> +<li>Rubens, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Rumbold, “Hannibal,” <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Russell family, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Ryder, H. C. D., <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> +<li>Rysbrack (sculptor), <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_S" name="IX_S"></a>S</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Sabine, Sir J., <a href="#Page_207">207</a></li> +<li>Sadleir family, <a href="#Page_202">202</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir Ralph, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>, <a href="#Page_203">203</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Salisbury family, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> +<li>Salmon, Nat., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> +<li>Salusbury family, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Salvator Rosa, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Samwell family (brass), <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Sandwich, Earl of, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Saraye, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_204">204</a></li> +<li>Saunders, James, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Thos., <a href="#Page_95">95</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Saxony, Duke of, <a href="#Page_122">122</a></li> +<li>Say, Sir W., <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li> +<li>Sayer, John, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Scales family, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> +<li>Scott, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir Gilbert, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> + <li>—— Sir W., <a href="#Page_77">77</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Seabrooke family, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li> +<li>Seddon, J. P., <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li> +<li>Selina, Countess, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></li> +<li>Sexi the Dane, <a href="#Page_123">123</a></li> +<li>Shaw, Mr. Norman, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Sherlock, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Shrimpton, Robt., <a href="#Page_194">194</a></li> +<li>Sidney, Algernon, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Sigar the Hermit, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +<li>Skelton, John, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></li> +<li>Smith, Abel, <a href="#Page_222">222</a></li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a>[Pg 242]</span>Smith-Bosanquet, Major G. R. B., <a href="#Page_80">80</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— W. G., <a href="#Page_33">33</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Somer (brass), <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> +<li>Somers, Lord, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_151">151</a></li> +<li>Southwell, Sir Robt., <a href="#Page_231">231</a></li> +<li>Spencer, Sir R., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Sperehawke, J. (brass), <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Spycere, Eliz., <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +<li>Stables, Lt.-Col., <a href="#Page_130">130</a></li> +<li>Stapleford, H. and D., <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> +<li>Stephen, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> +<li>Stern, Mrs., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Stigand, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +<li>St. Legier family, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Stone, Nich., <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Stow, John (quoted), <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Strathmore, Lord, <a href="#Page_197">197</a></li> +<li>Stratton, John, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Strong, Edward, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Stuart, Lady A., <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Stukeley, Dr., <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> +<li>Styles, B. H., <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> +<li>Sudley, Lord, <a href="#Page_195">195</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_T" name="IX_T"></a>T</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Taberam, W. (brass), <a href="#Page_172">172</a></li> +<li>Tacitus (quoted), <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a></li> +<li>Tankerville, G., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Taverner family, <a href="#Page_121">121</a></li> +<li>Thomson, James, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li> +<li>Thornbury family, <a href="#Page_153">153</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Sir John, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Thornhill, Sir James, <a href="#Page_170">170</a></li> +<li>Thrale, Mrs., <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Thurtell, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Tillotson, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Tinworth, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Titian, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Titus, Silas, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></li> +<li><a class="correction" href="#index_corrs" title="Not found in text">Tonson</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Tooke family, <a href="#Page_94">94</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Wm. (brass), <a href="#Page_94">94</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Torrington, Margaret, <a href="#Page_72">72</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Rich., <a href="#Page_72">72</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Townsend, Chas., <a href="#Page_120">120</a></li> +<li>Tremouille, Charlotte, <a href="#Page_221">221</a></li> +<li>Trigg, Henry, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></li> +<li>Turenne, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> +<li>Tykering, Rich., <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +<li>Tymms (quoted), <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_U" name="IX_U"></a>U</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Usher, Archbishop, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_V" name="IX_V"></a>V</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Valpy family, <a href="#Page_228">228</a></li> +<li>Vandyck, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Van Somer, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> +<li>Verulam, Earl, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></li> +<li>Vere, Sir R., <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Veronese, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Villiers family, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li>Vynter, John (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_W" name="IX_W"></a>W</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Walchelin, Bishop, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Walpole, Horace, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></li> +<li>Walton, Izaak, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_128">128</a></li> +<li>Ward, Dr. Seth, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Mrs. H., <a href="#Page_47">47</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Waren, Rich. (brass), <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> +<li>Warham, Bishop, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Warner, W., <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li> +<li>Warwick, “Kingmaker,” <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></li> +<li>Watson, H. C., <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Watts, Isaac, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li> +<li>Weare, William, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Wentworth, Thos., <a href="#Page_184">184</a></li> +<li>Whitefield, Geo., <a href="#Page_127">127</a></li> +<li>Whithred, King, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Whittingham, Sir R., <a href="#Page_48">48</a></li> +<li>Wilkie, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> +<li>Willet, Dr. A. (brass), <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +<li>William I., <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— III., <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li> + <li>—— de Cantilupe, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> + <li>—— Earl of Ewe, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_125">125</a></li> + <li>—— Earl of Salisbury, <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> + <li>—— of Malmesbury, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +<li>Willis, Thos., <a href="#Page_119">119</a></li> +<li>Wilshere family, <a href="#Page_223">223</a></li> +<li>Wincelfled, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Wodehouse, R. (brass), <a href="#Page_129">129</a></li> +<li>Wolsey, Cardinal, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>, <a href="#Page_232">232</a></li> +<li>Wolvey, Thos. (brass), <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> +<li><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a>[Pg 243]</span>Wortham, Hale, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>Wren, Sir C, <a href="#Page_210">210</a></li> +<li>Wright, John (brass), <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Wyatt (architect), <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_220">220</a></li> +<li>Wykins, John, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Wyndham, Mrs. E. (brass), <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Wynne, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Wyrley, Thos. (brass), <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_Y" name="IX_Y"></a>Y</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Yarrell, Wm., <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Young, Edward, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a> + <ul class="IX"> + <li>—— Robert, <a href="#Page_148">148</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> +</ul> +<p><a id="IX_Z" name="IX_Z"></a>Z</p> +<ul class="IX"> +<li>Zucchero, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +</ul> +</div> + +<hr class="biggap"/> +<p class="center"> +PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY<br /> +JARROLD AND SONS, LTD., NORWICH +</p> + +<hr /> + +<div class="center biggap " > +<table summary="List of volumes in the 'Little Guides' series"> + <tr> + <td class="little" rowspan="3" style="width: 25%;">PRACTICAL<br />HANDBOOKS</td> + <td colspan="2" class="biggest center">THE</td> + <td class="little toright" rowspan="3" style="width: 25%;">DELIGHTFUL<br />GIFT BOOKS</td> + </tr> + <tr><td colspan="2" class="biggest center">LITTLE GUIDES</td> </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="little center">Pott 8vo, <b>4s.</b> net to <b>7s. 6d.</b> net</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="4"><p class="center gaplet">THE 59 VOLUMES IN THE SERIES ARE:—</p></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" style="width: 50%;"> + Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire<br /> +Berkshire<br /> +Brittany<br /> +Buckinghamshire<br /> +Cambridge and Colleges<br /> +Cambridgeshire<br /> +Channel Islands<br /> +Cheshire<br /> +Cornwall<br /> +Cumberland and Westmoreland<br /> +Derbyshire<br /> +Devon<br /> +Dorset<br /> +Durham<br /> +English Lakes<br /> +Essex<br /> +Gloucestershire<br /> +Hampshire<br /> +Herefordshire<br /> +Hertfordshire<br /> +Isle of Wight<br /> +Kent<br /> +Kerry<br /> +Lancashire<br /> +Leicestershire and Rutland<br /> +Lincolnshire<br /> +London<br /> +Malvern Country<br /> + Middlesex<br /> +Monmouthshire<br /> + </td> + <td colspan="2" style="width: 50%;"> + +Norfolk<br /> +Normandy<br /> +Northamptonshire<br /> +Northumberland<br /> +North Wales<br /> +Nottinghamshire<br /> +Oxford and Colleges<br /> +Oxfordshire<br /> +Rome<br /> +St Paul’s Cathedral<br /> +Shakespeare’s Country<br /> +Shropshire<br /> +Sicily<br /> +Snowdonia<br /> +Somerset<br /> +South Wales<br /> +Staffordshire<br /> +Suffolk<br /> +Surrey<br /> +Sussex<br /> +Temple<br /> +Warwickshire<br /> +Westminster Abbey<br /> +Wiltshire<br /> +Worcestershire<br /> +Yorkshire East Riding<br /> +Yorkshire North Riding<br /> +Yorkshire West Riding<br /> +York (<i>in preparation</i>)<br /> + + </td> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td colspan="4" ><p class="gaplet little center">METHUEN & CO. LTD<br /> + 36 ESSEX STREET LONDON W.C.2</p></td> + </tr> + </table> + </div> + + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="THE_LITTLE_GUIDES" id="THE_LITTLE_GUIDES"></a>THE LITTLE GUIDES</h2> + + +<p>The main features of these books are (1) a handy and charming form, (2) +numerous illustrations from photographs and by well-known artists, (3) +good plans and maps, (4) an adequate but compact presentation of +everything that is interesting in the natural features, history, +archæology, and architecture of the town or district treated.</p> + +<p>In those volumes which treat of counties, there is first a general +description of the country—its situation, physical features, flora and +fauna, climate, inhabitants, industries, history and archæology. Then +follows an account of the chief towns and places of interest in +alphabetical order.</p> + +<p>The books are not guides in the ordinary sense of the word. They do not +give the usual routes for expeditions, information about hotels, etc., +but they contain information which may be sufficient for the ordinary +tourist of literary tastes, and they form not only practical handbooks, +but delightful gift books.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Herbert W. Macklin</span>, M.A. +With 24 Illustrations from Photographs and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Berkshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>. With 24 Illustrations by E. H. +New and from Photographs, and 3 Maps and 3 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. +net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Buckinghamshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">E. S. Roscoe</span>. With 28 Illustrations by F. +D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Third Edition.</i> +4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Cambridgeshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 25 +Illustrations from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Cheshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Walter M. Gallichan</span>. With 48 Illustrations by +Elizabeth Hartley and from Photographs, 2 Maps and a Plan. <i>Second +Edition.</i> 5s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Cornwall.</b> By <span class="smcap">Arthur L. Salmon</span>. With 26 Illustrations by B. C. +Boulter and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Cumberland and Westmoreland.</b> By <span class="smcap">Daniel Scott</span>. With 24 +Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Derbyshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 +Illustrations by J. Charles Wall and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. +<i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Devon.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span>, M.A. With 32 Illustrations and 2 +Maps. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Dorset.</b> By <span class="smcap">Frank R. Heath</span>. With 33 Illustrations from +Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 5s. 6d. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Durham.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. E. Hodgkin</span>. With 32 Illustrations from +Photographs, 3 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Essex.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations +from Photographs, and 2 Maps <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Gloucestershire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28 +Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. <i>Third Edition.</i> +4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Hampshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28 +Illustrations by M. E. Purser and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. +<i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Herefordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D, and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>, +M.A. With 26 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s. +net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Hertfordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Herbert W. Tompkins</span>, F.R.Hist.S. With 26 +Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second +Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Kent.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations +by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Plans and 2 Maps. <i>Third +Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Kerry.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. P. Crane</span>, D.S.O. With 36 Illustrations from +Photographs and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Lancashire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. H. Cheetham</span>, F.S.A. With 24 Illustrations +and 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Leicestershire and Rutland.</b> By <span class="smcap">A. Harvey</span> and <span class="smcap">V. B. +Crowther-Beynon</span>, M.A., F.S.A. With 32 Illustrations from +Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Lincolnshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 28 +Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Middlesex.</b> By <span class="smcap">John B. Firth</span>. With 32 Illustrations from +Photographs and Old Prints, 3 Maps and a Plan. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Monmouthshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>, +M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 4 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. +net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Norfolk.</b> By <span class="smcap">William A. Dutt</span>. With 30 Illustrations by B. C. +Boulter and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Northamptonshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Wakeling Dry</span>. With 40 Illustrations from +Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Northumberland.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 32 +Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 5s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Nottinghamshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Everard L. Guilford</span>, M.A. With 30 +Illustrations and 3 Maps. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Oxfordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by +Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 3 Maps and a Plan. <i>Third Edition.</i> +4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Shropshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. E. Auden</span>, M.A., F.R.Hist.S. With 28 +Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Somerset.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>, M.A. +With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Sixth +Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Staffordshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Charles Masefield</span>. With 32 Illustrations +from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Suffolk.</b> By <span class="smcap">William A. Dutt</span>. With 28 Illustrations by J. +Wylie, Frank Southgate, R.B.A., and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Third +Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Surrey.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 29 +Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Fourth +Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Sussex.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 24 Illustrations by +Edmund H. New and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 6 Plans. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> +4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Wales, North.</b> By <span class="smcap">Alfred T. Story</span>. With 32 Illustrations from +Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition.</i> 6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Wales, South.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. W. Wade</span>, D.D., and <span class="smcap">J. H. Wade</span>, +M.A. With 32 Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Warwickshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Charles Cox</span>, LL.D., F.S.A. With 24 +Illustrations from Photographs, and 2 Maps and 4 Plans. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Wight, Isle Of.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With +28 Illustrations by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 3 +Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Wiltshire.</b> By <span class="smcap">Frank R. Heath</span>. With 32 Illustrations from +Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 Plans. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Worcestershire.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. T. S. Houghton</span>. With 26 Illustrations, +2 Maps and 2 Plans, 6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>York.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 8 Illustrations and 15 +Plans (<i>in preparation</i>).</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, East Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 27 +Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 2 Maps and 2 +Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 5s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, North Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 26 +Illustrations by R. J. S. Bertram and from Photographs, 3 Maps and 7 +Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Yorkshire, West Riding of.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph E. Morris</span>, B.A. With 26 +Illustrations, 2 Maps and 7 Plans. <i>Second Edition.</i> 7s. 6d. net.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Cambridge and Its Colleges.</b> By <span class="smcap">A. Hamilton Thompson</span>, M.A. +With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New, and a Map. <i>Fifth Edition.</i> 4s. +net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Channel Islands, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">Ethel E. Bicknell</span>. With 32 +Illustrations and 5 Maps. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>English Lakes, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 20 +Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 11 Maps and a Plan. <i>Second Edition.</i> +6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>London.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. With 32 +Illustrations from Photographs and old Engravings, and a Map. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Malvern Country, The.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Bertram C. A. Windle</span>, D.Sc., +F.R.S., F.S.A. With 23 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from +Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Third Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Oxford and its Colleges.</b> By <span class="smcap">J. Wells</span>, M.A. With 27 +Illustrations by Edmund H. New, 6 Plans and a Map. <i>Twelfth Edition.</i> +4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>St Paul’s Cathedral.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Clinch</span>, F.S.A.Scot., F.G.S. +With 30 Illustrations by B. Alcock and from Old Prints, and 3 Plans. 4s. +net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Shakespeare’s Country.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Bertram C. A. Windle</span>, D.Sc., +F.R.S., F.S.A. With 25 Illustrations by Edmund H. New and from +Photographs, a Map and a Plan. <i>Sixth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Snowdonia.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. G. Brabant</span>, M.A. With 24 Illustrations from +Photographs, 3 Maps and 3 Plans. 6s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Temple, The.</b> By <span class="smcap">Hugh H. L. Bellot</span>, MA., D.C.L. With 40 +Illustrations by Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Second +Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Westminster Abbey.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. E. Troutbeck</span>. With 41 Illustrations +by F. D. Bedford and from Photographs, and a Plan. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. +net.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center big">FOREIGN</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Brittany.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. Baring-Gould</span>, M.A. With 28 Illustrations by +Jenny Wylie and from Photographs, and 3 Maps. <i>Fourth Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Normandy.</b> By <span class="smcap">Cyril Scudamore</span>, M.A. With 40 Illustrations from +Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition, Revised.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Rome.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. G. Ellaby</span>. With 38 Illustrations by B. C. Boulter +and from Photographs, and a Map. 4s. net.</p> + +<p class="booklist"><b>Sicily.</b> By <span class="smcap">F. Hamilton Jackson</span>. With 34 Illustrations by the +Author and from Photographs, and 2 Maps. <i>Second Edition.</i> 4s. net.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center">METHUEN & CO. LTD, 36 ESSEX ST., LONDON, W.C.2</p> + +<div class="transnote biggap"> + +<h3> <a name="corrections" id="corrections"></a>Transcriber’s notes:</h3> + +<ol> +<li><a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>“<a href="#cm1">protusion</a>” changed to “protrusion”</li> +<li><a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>“<a href="#cm2">protusion</a>” changed to “protrusion”</li> + +<li><a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>“<a href="#cm3">filixfœmina</a>” changed to “filixfæmina”</li> + +<li><a name="corr4a" id="corr4a"></a>“<a href="#cm4a">Guillemot</a>” changed to “guillemot”</li> +<li><a name="corr4b" id="corr4b"></a>“<a href="#cm4b">nœvia</a>” changed to “nævia”</li> + +<li><a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>“<a href="#cm5">Icene</a>” changed to “Iceni”</li> + +<li><a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>“<a href="#cm6">Wincelfied</a>” changed to “Wincelfled”</li> + +<li><a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>“<a href="#cm7">Aldeberie</a>” unclear in original but checked with other sources</li> + +<li><a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>“<a href="#cm8">in</a>” changed to “is”</li> + +<li><a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>“<a href="#cm9">Wymondly</a>” changed to “Wymondley”</li> + +<li><a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a>“<a href="#cm10">From</a>” changed to “from”</li> + +<li><a name="corr10a" id="corr10a"></a>“<a href="#cm10a">L.&S.W.R.</a>” changed to “L.&N.W.R.”</li> + +<li><a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a>“<a href="#cm11">Julian’s</a>” changed to “Julians”</li> + +<li><a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>“<a href="#cm12">projectin gentrance</a>” changed to “projecting entrance”</li> + +<li><a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a>“<a href="#cm13">Pishobury</a>” changed to “Pishiobury”</li> + +<li><a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>“<a href="#cm14">Blakemoor</a>” changed to “Blakesmoor”</li> +</ol> + +<p> +The following place names have inconsistent spellings:</p> +<ul> +<li>Abbot’s Langley, Abbots Langley</li> +<li>Gubblecote, Gubblecot</li> +<li>Luffenhall, Lufen Hall</li> +<li>Piccott’s End, Piccotts End</li> +<li>(St.) Ippollitts, Ippollit’s, Ippollits</li> +</ul> + +<p><a name="index_corrs" id="index_corrs"></a>Some of the index entries do not correspond exactly to the body of the +text. The differences are as follows:</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table summary="List of inconsistencies between index and text"> +<tr><th>Index</th><th>Text</th></tr> +<tr><td>Anorbul </td><td>Annabull</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brakespear </td><td>Breakspeare</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cassivelaunus </td><td>Cassivellaunus</td></tr> +<tr><td>Edelwine </td><td>Egelwine</td></tr> +<tr><td>Glamis </td><td>Not found in text</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hollinshed </td><td>Hollinshead</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humphrey, Duke of Gloster </td><td>Gloucester</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harvey, Sir Garrett </td><td>Garratt</td></tr> +<tr><td>Katharine Tudor </td><td>Katherine</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kybeworth </td><td>Bybsworth</td></tr> +<tr><td>Myddleton, Sir Hugh </td><td>Myddelton</td></tr> +<tr><td>Poyidres </td><td>Poydres</td></tr> +<tr><td>Priestley </td><td>Priestly</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tonson </td><td>Not found in text</td></tr> +</table></div> + +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hertfordshire, by Herbert W Tompkins + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HERTFORDSHIRE *** + +***** This file should be named 18252-h.htm or 18252-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/2/5/18252/ + +Produced by Louise Pryor and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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