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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18216-8.txt b/18216-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..65c2be0 --- /dev/null +++ b/18216-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10430 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. C. Laut + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Pathfinders of the West + Being the Thrilling Story of the Adventures of the Men Who + Discovered the Great Northwest: Radisson, La Vérendrye, + Lewis and Clark + +Author: A. C. Laut + +Release Date: April 20, 2006 [EBook #18216] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PATHFINDERS OF THE WEST *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + + + + + + +[Frontispiece: Stealing from the Fort by Night.] + + + + + + +Pathfinders of the West + + + +BEING + +THE THRILLING STORY OF THE ADVENTURES + +OF THE MEN WHO DISCOVERED THE GREAT NORTHWEST + +RADISSON, LA VÉRENDRYE, LEWIS AND CLARK + + + + + +BY + +A. C. LAUT + + + +AUTHOR OF "LORDS OF THE NORTH," "HERALDS + OF EMPIRE," "STORY OF THE TRAPPER" + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS BY + +REMINGTON, GOODWIN, MARCHAND + +AND OTHERS + + + + +NEW YORK + +GROSSET & DUNLAP + +PUBLISHERS + + + + +COPYRIGHT, 1904, + +By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + + + +Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1904. Reprinted February, +1906. + + + + +WILDWOOD PLACE, WASSAIC, N.Y. + +August 15, 1904. + + +DEAR MR. SULTE: + +A few years ago, when I was a resident of the Far West and tried to trace +the paths of early explorers, I found that all authorities--first, +second, and third rate--alike referred to one source of information for +their facts. The name in the tell-tale footnote was invariably your own. + +While I assume _all_ responsibility for upsetting the apple cart of +established opinions by this book, will you permit me to dedicate it to +you as a slight token of esteem to the greatest living French-Canadian +historian, from whom we have all borrowed and to whom few of us have +rendered the tribute due? + +Faithfully, + +AGNES C. LAUT. + + + MR. BENJAMIN SULTE, + PRESIDENT ROYAL SOCIETY, + OTTAWA, CANADA. + + + + + THE GREAT NORTHWEST + + I love thee, O thou great, wild, rugged land + Of fenceless field and snowy mountain height, + Uprearing crests all starry-diademed + Above the silver clouds! A sea of light + Swims o'er thy prairies, shimmering to the sight + A rolling world of glossy yellow wheat + That runs before the wind in billows bright + As waves beneath the beat of unseen feet, + And ripples far as eye can see--as far and fleet! + + Here's chances for every man! The hands that work + Become the hands that rule! Thy harvests yield + Only to him who toils; and hands that shirk + Must empty go! And here the hands that wield + The sceptre work! O glorious golden field! + O bounteous, plenteous land of poet's dream! + O'er thy broad plain the cloudless sun ne'er wheeled + But some dull heart was brightened by its gleam + To seize on hope and realize life's highest dream! + + Thy roaring tempests sweep from out the north-- + Ten thousand cohorts on the wind's wild mane-- + No hand can check thy frost-steeds bursting forth + To gambol madly on the storm-swept plain! + Thy hissing snow-drifts wreathe their serpent train, + With stormy laughter shrieks the joy of might-- + Or lifts, or falls, or wails upon the wane-- + Thy tempests sweep their stormy trail of white + Across the deepening drifts--and man must die, or fight! + + Yes, man must sink or fight, be strong or die! + That is thy law, O great, free, strenuous West! + The weak thou wilt make strong till he defy + Thy bufferings; but spacious prairie breast + Will never nourish weakling as its guest! + He must grow strong or die! Thou givest all + An equal chance--to work, to do their best-- + Free land, free hand--thy son must work or fall + Grow strong or die! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call! + + And so I love thee, great, free, rugged land + Of cloudless summer days, with west-wind croon, + And prairie flowers all dewy-diademed, + And twilights long, with blood-red, low-hung moon + And mountain peaks that glisten white each noon + Through purple haze that veils the western sky-- + And well I know the meadow-lark's far rune + As up and down he lilts and circles high + And sings sheer joy--be strong, be free; be strong or die! + + + + +Foreword + +The question will at once occur why no mention is made of Marquette and +Jolliet and La Salle in a work on the pathfinders of the West. The +simple answer is--they were _not_ pathfinders. Contrary to the notions +imbibed at school, and repeated in all histories of the West, +Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle did not discover the vast region +beyond the Great Lakes. Twelve years before these explorers had +thought of visiting the land which the French hunter designated as the +_Pays d'en Haut_, the West had already been discovered by the most +intrepid _voyageurs_ that France produced,--men whose wide-ranging +explorations exceeded the achievements of Cartier and Champlain and La +Salle put together. + +It naturally rouses resentment to find that names revered for more than +two centuries as the first explorers of the Great Northwest must give +place to a name almost unknown. It seems impossible that at this late +date history should have to be rewritten. Such is the fact _if we +would have our history true_. Not Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle +discovered the West, but two poor adventurers, who sacrificed all +earthly possessions to the enthusiasm for discovery, and incurred such +bitter hostility from the governments of France and England that their +names have been hounded to infamy. These were Sieur Pierre Esprit +Radisson and Sieur Médard Chouart Groseillers, fur traders of Three +Rivers, Quebec. [1] + +The explanation of the long oblivion obscuring the fame of these two +men is very simple. Radisson and Groseillers defied, first New France, +then Old France, and lastly England. While on friendly terms with the +church, they did not make their explorations subservient to the +propagation of the faith. In consequence, they were ignored by both +Church and State. The _Jesuit Relations_ repeatedly refer to two young +Frenchmen who went beyond Lake Michigan to a "Forked River" (the +Mississippi), among the Sioux and other Indian tribes that used coal +for fire because wood did not grow large enough on the prairie. +Contemporaneous documents mention the exploits of the young Frenchmen. +The State Papers of the Marine Department, Paris, contain numerous +references to Radisson and Groseillers. But, then, the _Jesuit +Relations_ were not accessible to scholars, let alone the general +public, until the middle of the last century, when a limited edition +was reprinted of the Cramoisy copies published at the time the priests +sent their letters home to France. The contemporaneous writings of +Marie de l'Incarnation, the Abbé Belmont, and Dollier de Casson were +not known outside the circle of French savants until still later; and +it is only within recent years that the Archives of Paris have been +searched for historical data. Meantime, the historians of France and +England, animated by the hostility of their respective governments, +either slurred over the discoveries of Radisson and Groseillers +entirely, or blackened their memories without the slightest regard to +truth. It would, in fact, take a large volume to contradict and +disprove half the lies written of these two men. Instead of consulting +contemporaneous documents,--which would have entailed both cost and +labor,--modern writers have, unfortunately, been satisfied to serve up +a rehash of the detractions written by the old historians. In 1885 +came a discovery that punished such slovenly methods by practically +wiping out the work of the pseudo-historians. There was found in the +British Museum, the Bodleian Library, and Hudson's Bay House, London, +unmistakably authentic record of Radisson's voyages, written by +himself. The Prince Society of Boston printed two hundred and fifty +copies of the collected Journals. The Canadian Archives published the +journals of the two last voyages. Francis Parkman was too +conscientious to ignore the importance of the find; but his history of +the West was already written. He made what reparation he could to +Radisson's memory by appending a footnote to subsequent editions of two +of his books, stating that Radisson and Groseillers' travels took them +to the "Forked River" before 1660. Some ten other lines are all that +Mr. Parkman relates of Radisson; and the data for these brief +references have evidently been drawn from Radisson's enemies, for the +explorer is called "a renegade." It is necessary to state this, +because some writers, whose zeal for criticism was much greater than +their qualifications, wanted to know why any one should attempt to +write Radisson's life when Parkman had already done so. + +Radisson's life reads more like a second Robinson Crusoe than sober +history. For that reason I have put the corroborative evidence in +footnotes, rather than cumber the movement of the main theme. I am +sorry to have loaded the opening parts with so many notes; but +Radisson's voyages change the relative positions of the other explorers +so radically that proofs must be given. The footnotes are for the +student and may be omitted by the general reader. The study of +Radisson arose from, using his later exploits on Hudson Bay as the +subject of the novel, _Heralds of Empire_. On the publication of that +book, several letters came from the Western states asking how far I +thought Radisson had gone beyond Lake Superior before he went to Hudson +Bay. Having in mind--I am sorry to say--mainly the early records of +Radisson's enemies, I at first answered that I thought it very +difficult to identify the discoverer's itinerary beyond the Great +Lakes. So many letters continued to come on the subject that I began +to investigate contemporaneous documents. The path followed by the +explorer west of the Great Lakes--as given by Radisson himself--is here +written. Full corroboration of all that Radisson relates is to be +found--as already stated--in chronicles written at the period of his +life and in the State Papers. Copies of these I have in my possession. +Samples of the papers bearing on Radisson's times, copied from the +Marine Archives, will be found in the Appendix. One must either accept +the explorer's word as conclusive,--even when he relates his own +trickery,--or in rejecting his journal also reject as fictions the +_Jesuit Relations_, the _Marine Archives_, _Dollier de Casson_, _Marie +de l'Incarnation_, and the _Abbé Belmont_, which record the same events +as Radisson. In no case has reliance been placed on second-hand +chronicles. Oldmixon and Charlevoix must both have written from +hearsay; therefore, though quoted in the footnotes, they are not given +as conclusive proof. The only means of identifying Radisson's routes +are (1) by his descriptions of the countries, (2) his notes of the +Indian tribes; so that personal knowledge of the territory is +absolutely essential in following Radisson's narrative. All the +regions traversed by Radisson--the Ottawa, the St. Lawrence, the Great +Lakes, Labrador, and the Great Northwest--I have visited, some of them +many times, except the shores of Hudson Bay, and of that region I have +some hundreds of photographs. + +Material for the accounts of the other pathfinders of the West has been +drawn directly from the different explorers' journals. + +For historical matter I wish to express my indebtedness to Dr. N. E. +Dionne of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec, whose splendid sketch of +Radisson and Groseillers, read before the Royal Society of Canada, does +much to redeem the memory of the discoverers from ignominy; to Dr. +George Bryce of Winnipeg, whose investigation of Hudson's Bay Archives +adds a new chapter to Radisson's life; to Mr. Benjamin Sulte of Ottawa, +whose destructive criticism of inaccuracies in old and modern records +has done so much to stop people writing history out of their heads and +to put research on an honest basis; and to M. Edouard Richard for +scholarly advice relating to the Marine Archives, which he has +exploited so thoroughly. For transcripts and archives now out of +print, thanks are due Mr. L. P. Sylvain of the Parliamentary Library, +Ottawa, the officials of the Archives Department, Ottawa, Mr. F. C. +Wurtele of Quebec, Professor Andrew Baird of Winnipeg, Mr. Alfred +Matthews of the Prince Society, Boston, the Hon. Jacob V. Brower and +Mr. Warren Upham of St. Paul. Mr. Lawrence J. Burpee of Ottawa was so +good as to give me a reading of his exhaustive notes on La Vérendrye +and of data found on the Radisson family. To Mrs. Fred Paget of +Ottawa, the daughter of a Hudson's Bay Company officer, and to Mr. and +Mrs. C. C. Farr of the Northern Ottawa, I am indebted for interesting +facts on life in the fur posts. Miss Talbot of Winnipeg obtained from +retired officers of the Hudson's Bay Company a most complete set of +photographs relating to the fur trade. To her and to those officers +who loaned old heirlooms to be photographed, I beg to express my +cordial appreciation. And the thanks of all who write on the North are +permanently due Mr. C. C. Chipman, Chief Commissioner of the Hudson's +Bay Company, for unfailing courtesy in extending information. + + +WILDWOOD PLACE, + +WASSAIC, N.Y. + + +[1] I of course refer to the West as beyond the Great Lakes; for +Nicotet, in 1634, and two nameless Frenchmen--servants of Jean de +Lauzon--in 1654, had been beyond the Sault. + + + + +Just as this volume was going to the printer, I received a copy of the +very valuable Minnesota _Memoir_, Vol. VI, compiled by the Hon. J. V. +Brower of St. Paul, to whom my thanks are due for this excellent +contribution to Western annals. It may be said that the authors of +this volume have done more than any other writers to vindicate Radisson +and Groseillers as explorers of the West. The very differences of +opinion over the regions visited establish the fact that Radisson _did_ +explore parts of Minnesota. I have purposely avoided trying to say +_what_ parts of Minnesota he exploited, because, it seems to me, the +controversy is futile. Radisson's memory has been the subject of +controversy from the time of his life. The controversy--first between +the governments of France and England, subsequently between the French +and English historians--has eclipsed the real achievements of Radisson. +To me it seems non-essential as to whether Radisson camped on an island +in the Mississippi, or only visited the region of that island. The +fact remains that he discovered the Great Northwest, meaning by that +the region west of the Mississippi. The same dispute has obscured his +explorations of Hudson Bay, French writers maintaining that he went +overland to the North and put his feet in the waters of the bay, the +English writers insisting that he only crossed over the watershed +toward Hudson Bay. Again, the fact remains that he did what others had +failed to do--discovered an overland route to the bay. I am sorry that +Radisson is accused in this _Memoir_ of intentionally falsifying his +relations in two respects, (1) in adding a fanciful year to the +1658-1660 voyage; (2) in saying that he had voyaged down the +Mississippi to Mexico. (1) Internal evidence plainly shows that +Radisson's first four voyages were written twenty years afterward, when +he was in London, and not while on the voyage across the Atlantic with +Cartwright, the Boston commissioner. It is the most natural thing in +the world that Radisson, who had so often been to the wilds, should +have mixed his dates. Every slip as to dates is so easily checked by +contemporaneous records--which, themselves, need to be checked--that it +seems too bad to accuse Radisson of wilfully lying in the matter. When +Radisson lied it was to avoid bloodshed, and not to exalt himself. If +he had had glorification of self in mind, he would not have set down +his own faults so unblushingly; for instance, where he deceives M. +Colbert of Paris. (2) Radisson does not try to give the impression +that he went to Mexico. The sense of the context is that he met an +Indian tribe--Illinois, Mandans, Omahas, or some other--who lived next +to another tribe who told _of_ the Spaniards. I feel almost sure that +the scholarly Mr. Benjamin Sulte is right in his letter to me when he +suggests that Radisson's manuscript has been mixed by transposition of +pages or paragraphs, rather than that Radisson himself was confused in +his account. At the same time every one of the contributors to the +Minnesota _Memoir_ deserves the thanks of all who love _true_ history. + + + + +ADDENDUM + +Since the above foreword was written, the contents of this volume have +appeared serially in four New York magazines. The context of the book +was slightly abridged in these articles, so that a very vital +distinction--namely, the difference between what is given as in +dispute, and what is given as incontrovertible fact--was lost; but what +was my amusement to receive letters from all parts of the West all but +challenging me to a duel. One wants to know "how a reputable author +dare" suggest that Radisson's voyages be taken as authentic. There is +no "dare" about it. It is a fact. For any "reputable" historian to +suggest--as two recently have--that Radisson's voyages are a +fabrication, is to stamp that historian as a pretender who has not +investigated a single record contemporaneous with Radisson's life. One +cannot consult documents contemporaneous with his life and not learn +instantly that he was a very live fact of the most troublesome kind the +governments of France and England ever had to accept. That is why it +impresses me as a presumption that is almost comical for any modern +writer to condescend to say that he "accepts" or "rejects" this or that +part of Radisson's record. If he "rejects" Radisson, he also rejects +the _Marine Archives of Paris_, and the _Jesuit Relations_, which are +the recognized sources of our early history. + +Another correspondent furiously denounces Radisson as a liar because he +mixes his dates of the 1660 trip. It would be just as reasonable to +call La Salle a liar because there are discrepancies in the dates of +his exploits, as to call Radisson a liar for the slips in his dates. +When the mistakes can be checked from internal evidence, one is hardly +justified in charging falsification. + +A third correspondent is troubled by the reference to the Mascoutin +Indians being _beyond_ the Mississippi. State documents establish this +fact. I am not responsible for it; and Radisson could not circle +west-northwest from the Mascoutins to the great encampments of the +Sioux without going far west of the Mississippi. Even if the Jesuits +make a slip in referring to the Sioux's use of some kind of coal for +fire because there was no wood on the prairie, and really mean turf or +buffalo refuse,--which I have seen the Sioux use for fire,--the fact is +that only the tribes far west of the Mississippi habitually used such +substitutes for wood. + +My Wisconsin correspondents I have offended by saying that Radisson +went beyond the Wisconsin; my Minnesota friends, by saying that he went +beyond Minnesota; and my Manitoba co-workers of past days, by +suggesting that he ever went beyond Manitoba. The fact remains that +when we try to identify Radisson's voyages, we must take his own +account of his journeyings; and that account establishes him as the +Discoverer of the Northwest. + +For those who know, I surely do not need to state that there is no +picture of Radisson extant, and that some of the studies of his life +are just as genuine (?) as alleged old prints of his likeness. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +PART ONE + +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON + +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO EXPLORE THE WEST, THE NORTHWEST, +AND THE NORTH + + +CHAPTER I + +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE + +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley--In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes--He is overtaken in Sight of Home--Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him--His Escape + + +CHAPTER II + +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE + +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission--He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands--Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War--Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson + + +CHAPTER III + +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE + +The Discovery of the Great Northwest--Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest--Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West--Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi--The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa--Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored + + +CHAPTER IV + +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE + +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy--It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North--When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits--In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight--They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France + + +CHAPTER V + +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS + +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers--Entangled in +Lawsuits, the Two French Explorers go to England--The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company--Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue--Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade + + +CHAPTER VI + +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE + +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay--Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company--How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY + +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune--Reëngaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age--His Character + + + +PART TWO + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA, BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF +THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE VALLEY OF THE +SASKATCHEWAN + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA + +M. de la Vérendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent--Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers--His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies--The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty + + + +PART THREE + +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC +CIRCLE AND ATHABASCA REGION + + +CHAPTER IX + +SAMUEL HEARNE + +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and +Northwest Passage--Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton--The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle--Discovery of the Athabasca Country--Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French--Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee + + + +PART FOUR + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES--HOW MACKENZIE CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES +AND LEWIS AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA + + +CHAPTER X + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES + +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the Question of a +Northwest Passage + + +CHAPTER XI + +LEWIS AND CLARK + +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend +the Columbia to the Pacific--Exciting Adventures on the Cañons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone--Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles + + +APPENDIX + +INDEX + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Stealing from the Fort by Night . . . . . . Frontispiece + +Map of the Great Fur Country + +Three Rivers in 1757 + +Map of the Iroquois Country in the Days of Radisson + +Albany from an Old Print + +The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time + +Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in Holland + +One of the Earliest Maps of the Great Lakes + +Paddling past Hostiles + +Jogues, the Jesuit Missionary, who was tortured by the Mohawks + +Château de Ramezay, Montreal + +A Cree Brave, with the Wampum String + +An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux + +Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in Montreal + +Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River + +Montreal in 1760 + +Château St. Louis, Quebec, 1669 + +A Parley on the Plains + +Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three Rivers + +Skin for Skin, Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay Company + +Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from + Tea-chests at York Factory + +Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower + Fort Garry, Red River + +Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight + +Fights at the Foothills of the Rockies, between Crows and Snakes + +Each Man landed with Pack on his Back and trotted away over Portages + +A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands + +A Group of Cree Indians + +The Soldiers marched out from Mount Royal for the Western Sea + +Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca River + +The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains + +Hungry Hall, 1870 + +A Monarch of the Plains + +Fur Traders towed down the Saskatchewan in the Summer of 1900 + +Tepees dotted the Valley + +An Eskimo Belle + +Samuel Hearne + +Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle + +Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun + +Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago + +Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's drawing, 1733-1747 + +Fort Prince of Wales + +Beaver Coin of the Hudson's Bay Company + +Alexander Mackenzie + +Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for the + Value of Three Beaver Skins + +Quill and Beadwork on Buckskin + +Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake Superior + +Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River + +Slave Lake Indians + +Good Hope, Mackenzie River, Hudson's Bay Company Fort + +The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight Sun + +Captain Meriwether Lewis + +Captain William Clark + +Tracking up Stream + +Typical Mountain Trapper + +The Discovery of the Great Falls + +Fighting a Grizzly + +Packer carrying Goods across Portage + +Spying on Enemy's Fort + +Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies + +On Guard + +Indians of the Up-country or Pays d'en Haut + + + + +PART I + +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON + +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO + EXPLORE THE WEST, THE NORTHWEST, + AND THE NORTH + + + +[Illustration: Map of the Great Fur Company.] + + + +Pathfinders of the West + + +CHAPTER I + +1651-1653 + +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE + +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley--In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes--He is overtaken in Sight of Home--Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him--His Escape + + +Early one morning in the spring of 1652 three young men left the little +stockaded fort of Three Rivers, on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, +for a day's hunting in the marshes of Lake St. Peter. On one side were +the forested hills, purple with the mists of rising vapor and still +streaked with white patches of snow where the dense woods shut out the +sunlight. On the other lay the silver expanse of the St. Lawrence, +more like a lake than a river, with mile on mile southwestward of +rush-grown marshes, where plover and curlew and duck and wild geese +flocked to their favorite feeding-grounds three hundred years ago just +as they do to-day. Northeastward, the three mouths of the St. Maurice +poured their spring flood into the St. Lawrence. + +The hunters were very young. Only hunters rash with the courage of +untried youth would have left the shelter of the fort walls when all +the world knew that the Iroquois had been lying in ambush round the +little settlement of Three Rivers day and night for the preceding year. +Not a week passed but some settler working on the outskirts of Three +Rivers was set upon and left dead in his fields by marauding Iroquois. +The tortures suffered by Jogues, the great Jesuit missionary who had +been captured by the Iroquois a few years before, were still fresh in +the memory of every man, woman, and child in New France. It was from +Three Rivers that Piescaret, the famous Algonquin chief who could +outrun a deer, had set out against the Iroquois, turning his snowshoes +back to front, so that the track seemed to lead north when he was +really going south, and then, having thrown his pursuers off the trail, +coming back on his own footsteps, slipping up stealthily on the +Iroquois that were following the false scent, and tomahawking the +laggards.[1] It was from Three Rivers that the Mohawks had captured +the Algonquin girl who escaped by slipping off the thongs that bound +her. Stepping over the prostrate forms of her sleeping guards, such a +fury of revenge possessed her that she seized an axe and brained the +nearest sleeper, then eluded her pursuers by first hiding in a hollow +tree and afterward diving under the debris of a beaver dam. + +[Illustration: Three Rivers in 1757.] + +These things were known to every inhabitant of Three Rivers. Farmers +had flocked into the little fort and could venture back to their fields +only when armed with a musket.[2] Yet the three young hunters rashly +left the shelter of the fort walls and took the very dangerous path +that led between the forests and the water. One of the young men was +barely in his seventeenth year.[3] This was Pierre Esprit Radisson, +from St. Malo, the town of the famous Cartier. Young Radisson had only +come to New France the year before, and therefore could not realize the +dangers of Indian warfare. Like boys the world over, the three went +along, boasting how they would fight if the Indians came. One skirted +the forest, on the watch for Iroquois, the others kept to the water, on +the lookout for game. About a mile from Three Rivers they encountered +a herdsman who warned them to keep out from the foot of the hills. +Things that looked like a multitude of heads had risen out of the earth +back there, he said, pointing to the forests. That set the young +hunters loading their pistols and priming muskets. It must also have +chilled their zest; for, shooting some ducks, one of the young men +presently declared that he had had enough--he was going back. With +that daring which was to prove both the lodestar and the curse of his +life, young Radisson laughed to scorn the sudden change of mind. +Thereupon the first hunter was joined by the second, and the two went +off in high dudgeon. With a laugh, Pierre Radisson marched along +alone, foreshadowing his after life,--a type of every pathfinder facing +the dangers of the unknown with dauntless scorn, an immortal type of +the world-hero. + +Shooting at every pace and hilarious over his luck, Radisson had +wandered some nine miles from the fort, when he came to a stream too +deep to ford and realized that he already had more game than he could +possibly carry. Hiding in hollow trees what he could not bring back, +he began trudging toward Three Rivers with a string of geese, ducks, +and odd teal over his shoulders, Wading swollen brooks and scrambling +over windfalls, he retraced his way without pause till he caught sight +of the town chapel glimmering in the sunlight against the darkening +horizon above the river. He was almost back where his comrades had +left him; so he sat down to rest. The cowherd had driven his cattle +back to Three Rivers.[4] The river came lapping through the rushes. +There was a clacking of wild-fowl flocking down to their marsh nests; +perhaps a crane flopped through the reeds; but Radisson, who had +laughed the nervous fears of the others to scorn, suddenly gave a start +at the lonely sounds of twilight. Then he noticed that his pistols +were water-soaked. Emptying the charges, he at once reloaded, and with +characteristic daring crept softly back to reconnoitre the woods. +Dodging from tree to tree, he peered up and down the river. Great +flocks of ducks were swimming on the water. That reassured him, for +the bird is more alert to alarm than man. The fort was almost within +call. Radisson determined to have a shot at such easy quarry; but as +he crept through the grass toward the game, he almost stumbled over +what rooted him to the spot with horror. Just as they had fallen, +naked and scalped, with bullet and hatchet wounds all over their +bodies, lay his comrades of the morning, dead among the rushes. +Radisson was too far out to get back to the woods. Stooping, he tried +to grope to the hiding of the rushes. As he bent, half a hundred heads +rose from the grasses, peering which way he might go. They were +behind, before, on all sides--his only hope was a dash for the +cane-grown river, where he might hide by diving and wading, till +darkness gave a chance for a rush to the fort. Slipping bullet and +shot in his musket as he ran, and ramming down the paper, hoping +against hope that he had not been seen, he dashed through the +brushwood. A score of guns crashed from the forest.[5] Before he +realized the penalty that the Iroquois might exact for such an act, he +had fired back; but they were upon him. He was thrown down and +disarmed. When he came giddily to his senses, he found himself being +dragged back to the woods, where the Iroquois flaunted the fresh scalps +of his dead friends. Half drawn, half driven, he was taken to the +shore. Here, a flotilla of canoes lay concealed where he had been +hunting wild-fowl but a few hours before. Fires were kindled, and the +crotched sticks driven in the ground to boil the kettle for the evening +meal. The young Frenchman was searched, stripped, and tied round the +waist with a rope, the Indians yelling and howling like so many wolves +all the while till a pause was given their jubilation by the alarm of a +scout that the French and Algonquins were coming. In a trice, the fire +was out and covered. A score of young braves set off to reconnoitre. +Fifty remained at the boats; but if Radisson hoped for a rescue, he was +doomed to disappointment. The warriors returned. Seventy Iroquois +gathered round a second fire for the night. The one predominating +passion of the savage nature is bravery. Lying in ambush, they had +heard this French youth laugh at his comrades' fears. In defiance of +danger, they had seen him go hunting alone. After he had heard an +alarm, he had daringly come out to shoot at the ducks. And, then, boy +as he was, when attacked he had instantly fired back at numerous enough +enemies to have intimidated a score of grown men. There is not the +slightest doubt it was Radisson's bravery that now saved him from the +fate of his companions. + +His clothes were returned. While the evening meal was boiling, young +warriors dressed and combed the Frenchman's hair after the manner of +braves. They daubed his cheeks with war-paint; and when they saw that +their rancid meats turned him faint, they boiled meat in clean water +and gave him meal browned on burning sand.[6] He did not struggle to +escape, so he was now untied. That night he slept between two warriors +under a common blanket, through which he counted the stars. For fifty +years his home was to be under the stars. It is typically Radisson +when he could add: "I slept a sound sleep; for they wakened me upon the +breaking of the day." In the morning they embarked in thirty-seven +canoes, two Indians in each boat, with Radisson tied to the cross-bar +of one, the scalps lying at his feet. Spreading out on the river, they +beat their paddles on the gunwales of the canoes, shot off guns, and +uttered the shrill war-cry--"Ah-oh! Ah-oh! Ah-oh!" [7] Lest this +were not sufficient defiance to the penned-up fort on the river bank, +the chief stood up in his canoe, signalled silence, and gave three +shouts. At once the whole company answered till the hills rang; and +out swung the fleet of canoes with more shouting and singing and firing +of guns, each paddle-stroke sounding the death knell to the young +Frenchman's hopes. + +By sunset they were among the islands at the mouth of the Richelieu, +where muskrats scuttled through the rushes and wild-fowl clouded the +air. The south shore of Lake St. Peter was heavily forested; the +north, shallow. The lake was flooded with spring thaw, and the Mohawks +could scarcely find camping-ground among the islands. The young +prisoner was deathly sick from the rank food that he had eaten and +heart-sick from the widening distance between himself and Three Rivers. +Still, they treated him kindly, saying, "Chagon! Chagon!--Be merry! +Cheer up!" The fourth day up the Richelieu, he was embarked without +being fastened to the cross-bar, and he was given a paddle. Fresh to +the work, Radisson made a labor of his oar. The Iroquois took the +paddle and taught him how to give the light, deft, feather strokes of +the Indian canoeman. On the river they met another band of warriors, +and the prisoner was compelled to show himself a trophy of victory and +to sing songs for his captors. That evening the united bands kindled +an enormous campfire and with the scalps of the dead flaunting from +spear heads danced the scalp dance, reënacting in pantomime all the +episodes of the massacre to the monotonous chant-chant, of a recitative +relating the foray. At the next camping-ground, Radisson's hair was +shaved in front and decorated on top with the war-crest of a brave. +Having translated the white man into a savage, they brought him one of +the tin looking-glasses used by Indians to signal in the sun. "I, +viewing myself all in a pickle," relates Radisson, "smeared with red +and black, covered with such a top, . . . could not but fall in love +with myself, if I had not had better instructions to shun the sin of +pride." + +Radisson saw that apparent compliance with the Mohawks might win him a +chance to escape; so he was the first to arise in the morning, wakening +the others and urging them that it was time to break camp. The stolid +Indians were not to be moved by an audacious white boy. Watching the +young prisoner, the keepers lay still, feigning sleep. Radisson rose. +They made no protest. He wandered casually down to the water side. +One can guess that the half-closed eyelids of his guards opened a +trifle: was the mouse trying to get away from the cat? To the Indians' +amusement, instead of trying to escape, Radisson picked up a spear and +practised tossing it, till a Mohawk became so interested that he jumped +up and taught the young Frenchman the proper throws. That day the +Indians gave him the present of a hunting-knife. North of Lake +Champlain, the river became so turbulent that they were forced to land +and make a _portage_. Instead of lagging, as captives frequently did +from very fear as they approached nearer and nearer what was almost +certain to mean death-torture in the Iroquois villages--Radisson +hurried over the rocks, helping the older warriors to carry their +packs. At night he was the first to cut wood for the camp fire. + +About a week from the time they had left Lake St. Peter, they entered +Lake Champlain. On the shores of the former had been enacted the most +hideous of all Indian customs--the scalp dance. On the shores of the +latter was performed one of the most redeeming rites of Indian warfare. +Round a small pool of water a coppice of branches was interlaced. Into +the water were thrown hot stones till the enclosure was steaming. Here +each warrior took a sweat-bath of purification to prepare for reunion +with his family. Invoking the spirits as they bathed, the warriors +emerged washed--as they thought--of all blood-guilt.[8] + +[Illustration: Map of the Iroquois country in the days of Radisson.] + +In the night shots sounded through the heavy silence of the forest, and +the Mohawks embarked in alarm, compelling their white prisoner to lie +flat in the bottom of the canoe. In the morning when he awakened, he +found the entire band hidden among the rushes of the lake. They spent +several days on Lake Champlain, then glided past wooded mountains down +a calm river to Lake George, where canoes were abandoned and the +warriors struck westward through dense forests to the country of the +Iroquois. Two days from the lake slave women met the returning braves, +and in Radisson's words, "loaded themselves like mules with baggage." +On this woodland march Radisson won golden opinions for himself by two +acts: struck by an insolent young brave, he thrashed the culprit +soundly; seeing an old man staggering under too heavy a load, the white +youth took the burden on his own shoulders. + +The return of the warriors to their villages was always celebrated as a +triumph. The tribe marched out to meet them, singing, firing guns, +shouting a welcome, dancing as the Israelites danced of old when +victors returned from battle. Men, women, and children lined up on +each side armed with clubs and whips to scourge the captives. Well for +Radisson that he had won the warriors' favor; for when the time came +for him to run the gantlet of Iroquois _diableries_, instead of being +slowly led, with trussed arms and shackled feet, he was stripped free +and signalled to run so fast that his tormentors could not hit him. +Shrieks of laughter from the women, shouts of applause from the men, +always greeted the racer who reached the end of the line unscathed. A +captive Huron woman, who had been adopted by the tribe, caught the +white boy as he dashed free of a single blow clear through the lines of +tormentors. Leading him to her cabin, she fed and clothed him. +Presently a band of braves marched up, demanded the surrender of +Radisson, and took him to the Council Lodge of the Iroquois for +judgment. + +Old men sat solemnly round a central fire, smoking their calumets in +silence. Radisson was ordered to sit down. A coal of fire was put in +the bowl of the great Council Pipe and passed reverently round the +assemblage. Then the old Huron woman entered, gesticulating and +pleading for the youth's life. The men smoked on silently with deep, +guttural "ho-ho's," meaning "yes, yes, we are pleased." The woman was +granted permission to adopt Radisson as a son. Radisson had won his +end. Diplomacy and courage had saved his life. It now remained to +await an opportunity for escape. + +Radisson bent all his energies to become a great hunter. He was given +firearms, and daily hunted with the family of his adoption. It so +happened that the family had lost a son in the wars, whose name had +signified the same as Radisson's--that is, "a stone"; so the Pierre of +Three Rivers became the Orimha of the Mohawks. The Iroquois husband of +the woman who had befriended him gave such a feast to the Mohawk braves +as befitted the prestige of a warrior who had slain nineteen enemies +with his own hand. Three hundred young Mohawks sat down to a collation +of moose nose and beaver tails and bears' paws, served by slaves. To +this banquet Radisson was led, decked out in colored blankets with +garnished leggings and such a wealth of wampum strings hanging from +wrists, neck, hair, and waist that he could scarcely walk. Wampum +means more to the Indian than money to the white man. It represents +not only wealth but social standing, and its value may be compared to +the white man's estimate of pink pearls. Diamond-cutters seldom spend +more than two weeks in polishing a good stone. An Indian would spend +thirty days in perfecting a single bit of shell into fine wampum. +Radisson's friends had ornamented him for the feast in order to win the +respect of the Mohawks for the French boy. Striking his hatchet +through a kettle of sagamite to signify thus would he break peace to +all Radisson's foes, the old Iroquois warrior made a speech to the +assembled guests. The guests clapped their hands and shouted, "Chagon, +Orimha!--Be merry, Pierre!" The Frenchman had been formally adopted as +a Mohawk. + + +The forests were now painted in all the glories of autumn. All the +creatures of the woodlands shook off the drowsy laziness of summer and +came down from the uplands seeking haunts for winter retreat. Moose +and deer were on the move. Beaver came splashing down-stream to +plaster up their wattled homes before frost. Bear and lynx and marten, +all were restless as the autumn winds instinct with coming storm. This +is the season when the Indian sets out to hunt and fight. Furnished +with clothing, food, and firearms, Radisson left the Mohawk Valley with +three hunters. By the middle of August, the rind of the birch is in +perfect condition for peeling. The first thing the hunters did was to +slit off the bark of a thick-girthed birch and with cedar linings make +themselves a skiff. Then they prepared to lay up a store of meat for +the winter's war-raids. Before ice forms a skim across the still +pools, nibbled chips betray where a beaver colony is at work; so the +hunters began setting beaver traps. One night as they were returning +to their wigwam, there came through the leafy darkness the weird sound +of a man singing. It was a solitary Algonquin captive, who called out +that he had been on the track of a bear since daybreak. He probably +belonged to some well-known Iroquois, for he was welcomed to the +camp-fire. The sight of a face from Three Rivers roused the +Algonquin's memories of his northern home. In the noise of the +crackling fire, he succeeded in telling Radisson, without being +overheard by the Iroquois, that he had been a captive for two years and +longed to escape. + +"Do you love the French?" the Algonquin asked Radisson. + +"Do you love the Algonquin?" returned Radisson, knowing they were +watched. + +"As I do my own nation." Then leaning across to Radisson, +"Brother--white man!--Let us escape! The Three Rivers--it is not far +off! Will you live like a Huron in bondage, or have your liberty with +the French?" Then, lowering his voice, "Let us kill all three this +night when they are asleep!" + +From such a way of escape, the French youth held back. The Algonquin +continued to urge him. By this time, Radisson must have heard from +returning Iroquois warriors that they had slain the governor of Three +Rivers, Duplessis-Kerbodot, and eleven other Frenchmen, among whom was +the husband of Radisson's eldest sister, Marguerite.[9] + +While Radisson was still hesitating, the suspicious Iroquois demanded +what so much whispering was about; but the alert Algonquin promptly +quieted their fears by trumping up some hunting story. Wearied from +their day's hunt, the three Mohawks slept heavily round the camp-fire. +They had not the least suspicion of danger, for they had stacked their +arms carelessly against the trees of the forest. Terrified lest the +Algonquin should attempt to carry out his threat, Radisson pretended to +be asleep. Rising noiselessly, the Algonquin sat down by the fire. +The Mohawks slept on. The Algonquin gave Radisson a push. The French +boy looked up to see the Algonquin studying the postures of the +sleeping forms. The dying fire glimmered like a blotch of blood under +the trees. Stepping stealthy as a cat over the sleeping men, the +Indian took possession of their firearms. Drawn by a kind of horror, +Radisson had risen. The Algonquin thrust one of the tomahawks into the +French lad's hands and pointed without a word at the three sleeping +Mohawks. Then the Indian began the black work. The Mohawk nearest the +fire never knew that he had been struck, and died without a sound. +Radisson tried to imitate the relentless Algonquin, but, unnerved with +horror, he bungled the blow and lost hold of the hatchet just as it +struck the Mohawk's head. The Iroquois sprang up with a shout that +awakened the third man, but the Algonquin was ready. Radisson's blow +proved fatal. The victim reeled back dead, and the third man was +already despatched by the Algonquin. + +Radisson was free. It was a black deed that freed him, but not half so +black as the deeds perpetrated in civilized wars for less cause; and +for that deed Radisson was to pay swift retribution. + +Taking the scalps as trophies to attest his word, the Algonquin threw +the bodies into the river. He seized all the belongings of the dead +men but one gun and then launched out with Radisson on the river. The +French youth was conscience-stricken. "I was sorry to have been in +such an encounter," he writes, "but it was too late to repent." Under +cover of the night mist and shore foliage, they slipped away with the +current. At first dawn streak, while the mist still hid them, they +landed, carried their canoe to a sequestered spot in the dense forest, +and lay hidden under the upturned skiff all that day, tormented by +swarms of mosquitoes and flies, but not daring to move from +concealment. At nightfall, they again launched down-stream, keeping +always in the shadows of the shore till mist and darkness shrouded +them, then sheering off for mid-current, where they paddled for dear +life. Where camp-fires glimmered on the banks, they glided past with +motionless paddles. Across Lake Champlain, across the Richelieu, over +long _portages_ where every shadow took the shape of an ambushed +Iroquois, for fourteen nights they travelled, when at last with many +windings and false alarms they swept out on the wide surface of Lake +St. Peter in the St. Lawrence. + +Within a day's journey of Three Rivers, they were really in greater +danger than they had been in the forests of Lake Champlain. Iroquois +had infested that part of the St. Lawrence for more than a year. The +forest of the south shore, the rush-grown marshes, the wooded islands, +all afforded impenetrable hiding. It was four in the morning when they +reached Lake St. Peter. Concealing their canoe, they withdrew to the +woods, cooked their breakfast, covered the fire, and lay down to sleep. +In a couple of hours the Algonquin impatiently wakened Radisson and +urged him to cross the lake to the north shore on the Three Rivers +side. Radisson warned the Indian that the Iroquois were ever lurking +about Three Rivers. The Indian would not wait till sunset. "Let us +go," he said. "We are past fear. Let us shake off the yoke of these +whelps that have killed so many French and black robes (priests). . . . +If you come not now that we are so near, I leave you, and will tell the +governor you were afraid to come." + +Radisson's judgment was overruled by the impatient Indian. They pushed +their skiff out from the rushes. The water lay calm as a sea of +silver. They paddled directly across to get into hiding on the north +shore. Halfway across Radisson, who was at the bow, called out that he +saw shadows on the water ahead. The Indian stood up and declared that +the shadow was the reflection of a flying bird. Barely had they gone a +boat length when the shadows multiplied. They were the reflections of +Iroquois ambushed among the rushes. Heading the canoe back for the +south shore, they raced for their lives. The Iroquois pursued in their +own boats. About a mile from the shore, the strength of the fugitives +fagged. Knowing that the Iroquois were gaining fast, Radisson threw +out the loathsome scalps that the Algonquin had persisted in carrying. +By that strange fatality which seems to follow crime, instead of +sinking, the hairy scalps floated on the surface of the water back to +the pursuing Iroquois. Shouts of rage broke from the warriors. +Radisson's skiff was so near the south shore that he could see the +pebbled bottom of the lake; but the water was too deep to wade and too +clear for a dive, and there was no driftwood to afford hiding. Then a +crash of musketry from the Iroquois knocked the bottom out of the +canoe. The Algonquin fell dead with two bullet wounds in his head and +the canoe gradually filled, settled, and sank, with the young Frenchman +clinging to the cross-bar mute as stone. Just as it disappeared under +water, Radisson was seized, and the dead Algonquin was thrown into the +Mohawk boats. + +Radisson alone remained to pay the penalty of a double crime; and he +might well have prayed for the boat to sink. The victors shouted their +triumph. Hurrying ashore, they kindled a great fire. They tore the +heart from the dead Algonquin, transfixed the head on a pike, and cast +the mutilated body into the flames for those cannibal rites in which +savages thought they gained courage by eating the flesh of their +enemies. Radisson was rifled of clothes and arms, trussed at the +elbows, roped round the waist, and driven with blows back to the +canoes. There were other captives among the Mohawks. As the canoes +emerged from the islands, Radisson counted one hundred and fifty +Iroquois warriors, with two French captives, one white woman, and +seventeen Hurons. Flaunting from the canoe prows were the scalps of +eleven Algonquins. The victors fired off their muskets and shouted +defiance until the valley rang. As the seventy-five canoes turned up +the Richelieu River for the country of the Iroquois, hope died in the +captive Hurons and there mingled with the chant of the Mohawks' +war-songs, the low monotonous dirge of the prisoners:-- + + "If I die, I die valiant! + I go without fear + To that land where brave men + Have gone long before me-- + If I die, I die valiant." + +Twelve miles up the Richelieu, the Iroquois landed to camp. The +prisoners were pegged out on the sand, elbows trussed to knees, each +captive tied to a post. In this fashion they lay every night of +encampment, tortured by sand-flies that they were powerless to drive +off. At the entrance to the Mohawk village, a yoke was fastened to the +captives' necks by placing pairs of saplings one on each side down the +line of prisoners. By the rope round the waist of the foremost +prisoner, they were led slowly between the lines of tormentors. The +captives were ordered to sing. If one refused or showed fear, a Mohawk +struck off a finger with a hatchet, or tore the prisoners' nails out, +or thrust red-hot irons into the muscles of the bound arms.[10] As +Radisson appeared, he was recognized with shouts of rage by the friends +of the murdered Mohawks. Men, women, and children armed with rods and +skull-crackers--leather bags loaded with stones--rushed on the slowly +moving file of prisoners. + +"They began to cry from both sides," says Radisson; "we marching one +after another, environed with people to witness that hideous sight, +which seriously may be called the image of Hell in this world." + +The prisoners moved mournfully on. The Hurons chanted their death +dirge. The Mohawk women uttered screams of mockery. Suddenly there +broke from the throng of onlookers the Iroquois family that had adopted +Radisson. Pushing through the crew of torturers, the mother caught +Radisson by the hair, calling him by the name of her dead son, "Orimha! +Orimha!" She cut the thongs that bound him to the poles, and wresting +him free shoved him to her husband, who led Radisson to their own lodge. + +"Thou fool," cried the old chief, "thou wast my son! Thou makest +thyself an enemy! Thou lovest us not, though we saved thy life! +Wouldst kill me, too?" Then, with a rough push to a mat on the ground, +"Chagon--now, be merry! It's a merry business you've got into! Give +him something to eat!" + +Trembling with fear, young Radisson put as bold a face on as he could +and made a show of eating what the squaw placed before him. He was +still relating his adventures when there came a roar of anger from the +Mohawks outside, who had discovered his absence from the line. A +moment later the rabble broke into the lodge. Jostling the friendly +chief aside, the Mohawk warriors carried Radisson back to the orgies of +the torture. The prisoners had been taken out of the stocks and placed +on several scaffoldings. One poor Frenchman fell to the ground bruised +and unable to rise. The Iroquois tore the scalp from his head and +threw him into the fire. That was Radisson's first glimpse of what was +in store for him. Then he, too, stood on the scaffolding among the +other prisoners, who never ceased singing their death song. In the +midst of these horrors--_diableries_, the Jesuits called them--as if +the very elements had been moved with pity, there burst over the +darkened forest a terrific hurricane of hail and rain. This put out +the fires and drove all the tormentors away but a few impish children, +who stayed to pluck nails from the hands and feet of the captives and +shoot arrows with barbed points at the naked bodies. Every iniquity +that cruelty could invent, these children practised on the captives. +Red-hot spears were brought from the lodge fires and thrust into the +prisoners. The mutilated finger ends were ground between stones. +Thongs were twisted round wrists and ankles, by sticks put through a +loop, till flesh was cut to the bone. As the rain ceased falling, a +woman, who was probably the wife of one of the murdered Mohawks, +brought her little boy to cut one of Radisson's fingers with a flint +stone. The child was too young and ran away from the gruesome task. + +Gathering darkness fell over the horrible spectacle. The exhausted +captives, some in a delirium from pain, others unconscious, were led to +separate lodges, or dragged over the ground, and left tied for the +night. The next morning all were returned to the scaffolds, but the +first day had glutted the Iroquois appetite for tortures. The friendly +family was permitted to approach Radisson. The mother brought him food +and told him that the Council Lodge had decided not to kill him for +that day--they wanted the young white warrior for their own ranks; but +even as the cheering hope was uttered, came a brave with a pipe of live +coals, in which he thrust and held Radisson's thumb. No sooner had the +tormentor left than the woman bound up the burn and oiled Radisson's +wounds. He suffered no abuse that day till night, when the soles of +both feet were burned. The majority of the captives were flung into a +great bonfire. On the third day of torture he almost lost his life. +First came a child to gnaw at his fingers. Then a man appeared armed +for the ghastly work of mutilation. Both these the Iroquois father of +Radisson sent away. Once, when none of the friendly family happened to +be near, Radisson was seized and bound for burning, but by chance the +lighted faggot scorched his executioner. A friendly hand slashed the +thongs that bound him, and he was drawn back to the scaffold. + +Past caring whether he lived or died, and in too great agony from the +burns of his feet to realize where he was going, Radisson was conducted +to the Great Council. Sixty old men sat on a circle of mats, smoking, +round the central fire. Before them stood seven other captives. +Radisson only was still bound. A gust of wind from the opening lodge +door cleared the smoke for an instant and there entered Radisson's +Indian father, clad in the regalia of a mighty chief. Tomahawk and +calumet and medicine-bag were in his hands. He took his place in the +circle of councillors. Judgment was to be given on the remaining +prisoners. + +After passing the Council Pipe from hand to hand in solemn silence, the +sachems prepared to give their views. One arose, and offering the +smoke of incense to the four winds of heaven to invoke witness to the +justice of the trial, gave his opinion on the matter of life or death. +Each of the chiefs in succession spoke. Without any warning whatever, +one chief rose and summarily tomahawked three of the captives. That +had been the sentence. The rest were driven, like sheep for the +shambles, to life-long slavery. + +Radisson was left last. His case was important. He had sanctioned the +murder of three Mohawks. Not for a moment since he was recaptured had +they dared to untie the hands of so dangerous a prisoner. Amid deathly +silence, the Iroquois father stood up. Flinging down medicine-bag, fur +robe, wampum belts, and tomahawk, he pointed to the nineteen scars upon +his side, each of which signified an enemy slain by his own hand. Then +the old Mohawk broke into one of those impassioned rhapsodies of +eloquence which delighted the savage nature, calling back to each of +the warriors recollection of victories for the Iroquois. His eyes took +fire from memory of heroic battle. The councillors shook off their +imperturbable gravity and shouted "Ho, ho!" Each man of them had a +memory of his part in those past glories. And as they applauded, there +glided into the wigwam the mother, singing some battle-song of valor, +dancing and gesticulating round and round the lodge in dizzy, +serpentine circlings, that illustrated in pantomime those battles of +long ago. Gliding ghostily from the camp-fire to the outer dark, she +suddenly stopped, stood erect, advanced a step, and with all her might +threw one belt of priceless wampum at the councillors' feet, one +necklace over the prisoner's head. + +Before the applause could cease or the councillors' ardor cool, the +adopted brother sprang up, hatchet in hand, and sang of other +victories. Then, with a delicacy of etiquette which white pleaders do +not always observe, father and son withdrew from the Council Lodge to +let the jury deliberate. The old sachems were disturbed. They had +been moved more than their wont. Twenty withdrew to confer. Dusk +gathered deeper and deeper over the forests of the Mohawk Valley. +Tawny faces came peering at the doors, waiting for the decision. +Outsiders tore the skins from the walls of the lodge that they, too, +might witness the memorable trial of the boy prisoner. Sachem after +sachem rose and spoke. Tobacco was sacrificed to the fire-god. Would +the relatives of the dead Mohawks consider the wampum belts full +compensation? Could the Iroquois suffer a youth to live who had joined +the murderers of the Mohawks? Could the Mohawks afford to offend the +great Iroquois chief who was the French youth's friend? As they +deliberated, the other councillors returned, accompanied by all the +members of Radisson's friendly family. Again the father sang and +spoke. This time when he finished, instead of sitting down, he caught +the necklace of wampum from Radisson's neck, threw it at the feet of +the oldest sachem, cut the captive's bonds, and, amid shouts of +applause, set the white youth free. + + +One of the incomprehensible things to civilization is how a white man +_can_ degenerate to savagery. Young Radisson's life is an +illustration. In the first transports of his freedom, with the Mohawk +women dancing and singing around him, the men shouting, he leaped up, +oblivious of pain; but when the flush of ecstasy had passed, he sank to +the mat of the Iroquois lodge, and he was unable to use his burned feet +for more than a month. During this time the Iroquois dressed his +wounds, brought him the choice portions of the hunt, gave him clean +clothing purchased at Orange (Albany), and attended to his wants as if +he had been a prince. No doubt the bright eyes of the swarthy young +French boy moved to pity the hearts of the Mohawk mothers, and his +courage had won him favor among the warriors. He was treated like a +king. The women waited upon him like slaves, and the men gave him +presents of firearms and ammunition--the Indian's most precious +possessions. Between flattered vanity and indolence, other white men, +similarly treated, have lost their self-respect. Beckworth, of the +Missouri, became to all intents and purposes a savage; and Bird, of the +Blackfeet, degenerated lower than the Indians. Other Frenchmen +captured from the St. Lawrence, and white women taken from the New +England colonies, became so enamored of savage life that they refused +to leave the Indian lodges when peace had liberated them. Not so +Radisson. Though only seventeen, flattered vanity never caused him to +forget the gratitude he owed the Mohawk family. Though he relates his +life with a frankness that leaves nothing untold, he never at any time +returned treachery for kindness. The very chivalry of the French +nature endangered him all the more. Would he forget his manhood, his +birthright of a superior race, his inheritance of nobility from a +family that stood foremost among the _noblesse_ of New France? + +[Illustration: Albany, from an Old Print.] + + +The spring of 1653 came with unloosening of the rivers and stirring of +the forest sap and fret of the warrior blood. Radisson's Iroquois +father held great feasts in which he heaved up the hatchet to break the +kettle of sagamite against all enemies. Would Radisson go on the +war-path with the braves, or stay at home with the women and so lose +the respect of the tribe? In the hope of coming again within reach of +Three Rivers, he offered to join the Iroquois in their wars. The +Mohawks were delighted with his spirit, but they feared to lose their +young warrior. Accepting his offer, they refused to let him accompany +them to Quebec, but assigned him to a band of young braves, who were to +raid the border-lands between the Huron country of the Upper Lakes and +the St. Lawrence. This was not what Radisson wanted, but he could not +draw back. There followed months of wild wanderings round the regions +of Niagara. The band of young braves passed dangerous places with +great precipices and a waterfall, where the river was a mile wide and +unfrozen. Radisson was constrained to witness many acts against the +Eries, which must have one of two effects on white blood,--either turn +the white man into a complete savage, or disgust him utterly with +savage life. Leaving the Mohawk village amid a blare of guns and +shouts, the young braves on their maiden venture passed successively +through the lodges of Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas, and Cayugas, where +they were feasted almost to death by the Iroquois Confederacy.[11] +Then they marched to the vast wilderness of snow-padded forests and +heaped windfall between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. + +Snow still lay in great drifts under the shadow of hemlock and spruce; +and the braves skimmed forward winged with the noiseless speed of +snow-shoes. When the snow became too soft from thaw for snow-shoes, +they paused to build themselves a skiff. It was too early to peel the +bark off the birch, so they made themselves a dugout of the walnut +tree. The wind changed from north to south, clearing the lakes of ice +and filling the air with the earthy smells of up-bursting growth. +"There was such a thawing," writes Radisson, "ye little brookes flowed +like rivers, which made us embark to wander over that sweet sea." +Lounging in their skiff all day, carried from shore to shore with the +waves, and sleeping round camp-fires on the sand each night, the young +braves luxuriated in all the delights of sunny idleness and spring +life. But this was not war. It was play, and play of the sort that +weans the white man from civilization to savagery. + +One day a scout, who had climbed to the top of a tree, espied two +strange squaws. They were of a hostile tribe. The Mohawk bloodthirst +was up as a wolf's at the sight of lambs. In vain Radisson tried to +save the women by warning the Iroquois that if there were women, there +must be men, too, who would exact vengeance for the squaws' death. The +young braves only laid their plans the more carefully for his warning +and massacred the entire encampment. Prisoners were taken, but when +food became scarce they were brutally knocked on the head. These +tribes had never heard guns before, and at the sound of shots fled as +from diabolical enemies. It was an easy matter for the young braves in +the course of a few weeks to take a score of scalps and a dozen +prisoners. At one place more than two hundred beaver were trapped. At +the end of the raid, the booty was equally divided. Radisson asked +that the woman prisoner be given to him; and he saved her from torture +and death on the return to the Mohawks by presenting her as a slave to +his Indian mother. All his other share of booty he gave to the +friendly family. The raid was over. He had failed of his main object +in joining it. He had not escaped. But he had made one important +gain. His valor had reëstablished the confidence of the Indians so +that when they went on a free-booting expedition against the whites of +the Dutch settlements at Orange (Albany), Radisson was taken with them. +Orange, or Albany, consisted at that time of some fifty thatched +log-houses surrounded by a settlement of perhaps a hundred and fifty +farmers. This raid was bloodless. The warriors looted the farmers' +cabins, emptied their cupboards, and drank their beer cellars dry to +the last drop. Once more Radisson kept his head. While the braves +entered Fort Orange roaring drunk, Radisson was alert and sober. A +drunk Indian falls an easy prey in the bartering of pelts. The +Iroquois wanted guns. The Dutch wanted pelts. The whites treated the +savages like kings; and the Mohawks marched from house to house +feasting of the best. Radisson was dressed in garnished buckskin and +had been painted like a Mohawk. Suspecting some design to escape, his +Iroquois friends never left him. The young Frenchman now saw white men +for the first time in almost two years; but the speech that he heard +was in a strange tongue. As Radisson went into the fort, he noticed a +soldier among the Dutch. At the same instant the soldier recognized +him as a Frenchman, and oblivious of the Mohawks' presence blurted out +his discovery in Iroquois dialect, vowing that for all the paint and +grease, this youth was a white man below. The fellow's blundering +might have cost Radisson's life; but the youth had not been a captive +among crafty Mohawks for nothing. Radisson feigned surprise at the +accusation. That quieted the Mohawk suspicions and they were presently +deep in the beer pots of the Dutch. Again the soldier spoke, this time +in French. It was the first time that Radisson had heard his native +tongue for months. He answered in French. At that the soldier emitted +shouts of delight, for he, too, was French, and these strangers in an +alien land threw their arms about each other like a pair of long-lost +brothers with exclamations of joy too great for words. + +[Illustration: The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time.] + +From that moment Radisson became the lion of Fort Orange. The women +dragged him to their houses and forced more dainties on him than he +could eat. He was conducted from house to house in triumph, to the +amazed delight of the Indians. The Dutch offered to ransom him at any +price; but that would have exposed the Dutch settlement to the +resentment of the Mohawks and placed Radisson under heavy obligation to +people who were the enemies of New France. Besides, his honor was +pledged to return to his Indian parents; and it was a long way home to +have to sail to Europe and back again to Quebec. Perhaps, too, there +was deep in his heart what he did not realize--a rooted love for the +wilds that was to follow him all through life. By the devious course +of captivity, he had tasted of a new freedom and could not give it up. +He declined the offer of the Dutch. In two days he was back among the +Mohawks ten times more a hero than he had ever been. Mother and +sisters were his slaves. + +But between love of the wilds and love of barbarism is a wide +difference. He had not been back for two weeks when that glimpse of +crude civilization at Orange recalled torturing memories of the French +home in Three Rivers. The filthy food, the smoky lodges, the cruelties +of the Mohawks, filled him with loathing. The nature of the white man, +which had been hidden under the grease and paint of the savage--and in +danger of total eclipse--now came upper-most. With Radisson, to think +was to act. He determined to escape if it cost him his life. + +Taking only a hatchet as if he were going to cut wood, Radisson left +the Indian lodge early one morning in the fall of 1653. Once out of +sight from the village, he broke into a run, following the trail +through the dense forests of the Mohawk Valley toward Fort Orange. On +and on he ran, all that day, without pause to rest or eat, without +backward glance, with eye ever piercing through the long leafy vistas +of the forest on the watch for the fresh-chipped bark of the trees that +guided his course, or the narrow indurated path over the spongy mould +worn by running warriors. And when night filled the forest with the +hoot of owl, and the far, weird cries of wild creatures on the rove, +there sped through the aisled columns of star light and shadow, the +ghostly figure of the French boy slim, and lithe as a willow, with +muscles tense as ironwood, and step silent as the mountain-cat. All +that night he ran without a single stop. Chill daybreak found him +still staggering on, over rocks slippery with the night frost, over +windfall tree on tree in a barricade, through brawling mountain brooks +where his moccasins broke the skim of ice at the edge, past rivers +where he half waded, half swam. He was now faint from want of food; +but fear spurred him on. The morning air was so cold that he found it +better to run than rest. By four of the afternoon he came to a +clearing in the forest, where was the cabin of a settler. A man was +chopping wood. Radisson ascertained that there were no Iroquois in the +cabin, and, hiding in it, persuaded the settler to carry a message to +Fort Orange, two miles farther on. While he waited Indians passed the +cabin, singing and shouting. The settler's wife concealed him behind +sacks of wheat and put out all lights. Within an hour came a rescue +party from Orange, who conducted him safely to the fort. For three +days Radisson hid in Orange, while the Mohawks wandered through the +fort, calling him by name. + +Gifts of money from the Jesuit, Poncet, and from a Dutch merchant, +enabled Radisson to take ship from Orange to New York, and from New +York to Europe. + +[Illustration: Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in +Holland. This view of Fort Amsterdam on the Manhattan is copied from +an ancient engraving executed in Holland. The fort was erected in 1623 +but finished upon the above model by Governor Van Twiller in 1635.] + +Père Poncet had been captured by the Mohawks the preceding summer, but +had escaped to Orange.[12] Embarking on a small sloop, Radisson sailed +down the Hudson to New York, which then consisted of some five hundred +houses, with stores, barracks, a stone church, and a dilapidated fort. +Central Park was a forest; goats and cows pastured on what is now Wall +Street; and to east and west was a howling wilderness of marsh and +woods. After a stay of three weeks, Radisson embarked for Amsterdam, +which he reached in January, 1654. + + +[1] Benjamin Sulte in _Chronique Trifluvienne_. + +[2] It was in August of this same year, 1652, that the governor of +Three Rivers was slain by the Iroquois. Parkman gives this date, 1653, +Garneau, 1651, L'Abbé Tanguay, 1651; Dollier de Casson, 1651, Belmont, +1653. Sulte gives the name of the governor Duplessis-Kerbodot, not +Bochart, as given in Parkman. + +[3] Dr. Bryce has unearthed the fact that in a petition to the House of +Commons, 1698, Radisson sets down his age as sixty-two. This gives the +year of his birth as 1636. On the other hand, Sulte has record of a +Pierre Radisson registered at Quebec in 1681, aged fifty-one, which +would make him slightly older, if it is the same Radisson. Mr. Sulte's +explanation is as follows: Sébastien Hayet of St. Malo married Madeline +Hénault. Their daughter Marguerite married Chouart, known as +Groseillers. Madeline Hénault then married Pierre Esprit Radisson of +Paris, whose children were Pierre, our hero, and two daughters. + +[4] A despatch from M. Talon in 1666 shows there were 461 families in +Three Rivers. State papers from the Minister to M. Frontenac in 1674 +show there were only 6705 French in all the colony. Averaging five a +family, there must have been 2000 people at Three Rivers. Fear of the +Iroquois must have driven the country people inside the fort, so that +the population enrolled was larger than the real population of Three +Rivers. Sulte gives the normal population of Three Rivers in 1654 as +38 married couples, 13 bachelors, 38 boys, 26 girls--in all not 200. + +[5] At first flush, this seems a slip in _Radisson's Relation_. Where +did the Mohawks get their guns? _New York Colonial Documents_ show +that between 1640 and 1650 the Dutch at Fort Orange had supplied the +Mohawks alone with four hundred guns. + +[6] One of many instances of Radisson's accuracy in detail. All tribes +have a trick of browning food on hot stones or sand that has been taken +from fire. The Assiniboines gained their name from this practice: they +were the users of "boiling stones." + +[7] I have asked both natives and old fur-traders what combination of +sounds in English most closely resembles the Indian war-cry, and they +have all given the words that I have quoted. One daughter of a chief +factor, who went through a six weeks' siege by hostiles in her father's +fort, gave a still more graphic description. She said: "you can +imagine the snarls of a pack of furiously vicious dogs saying 'ah-oh' +with a whoop, you have it; and you will not forget it!" + +[8] This practice was a binding law on many tribes. Catlin relates it +of the Mandans, and Hearne of the Chipewyans. The latter considered it +a crime to kiss wives and children after a massacre without the bath of +purification. Could one know where and when that universal custom of +washing blood-guilt arose, one mystery of existence would be unlocked. + +[9] I have throughout followed Mr. Sulte's correction of the name of +this governor. The mistake followed by Parkman, Tanguay, and +others--it seems--was first made in 1820, and has been faithfully +copied since. Elsewhere will be found Mr. Sulte's complete elucidation +of the hopeless dark in which all writers have involved Radisson's +family. + +[10] If there were not corroborative testimony, one might suspect the +excited French lad of gross exaggeration in his account of Iroquois +tortures; but the Jesuits more than confirm the worst that Radisson +relates. Bad as these torments were, they were equalled by the deeds +of white troops from civilized cities in the nineteenth century. A +band of Montana scouts came on the body of a comrade horribly mutilated +by the Indians. They caught the culprits a few days afterwards. +Though the government report has no account of what happened, traders +say the bodies of the guilty Indians were found skinned and scalped by +the white troops. + +[11] Radisson puts the Senecas before the Cayugas, which is different +from the order given by the Jesuits. + +[12] The fact that Radisson confessed his sins to this priest seems +pretty well to prove that Pierre was a Catholic and not a Protestant, +as has been so often stated. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +1657-1658 + +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE + +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission--He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands--Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War--Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson. + + +From Amsterdam Radisson took ship to Rochelle. Here he found himself a +stranger in his native land. All his kin of whom there is any +record--Pierre Radisson, his father, Madeline Hénault, his mother, +Marguerite and Françoise, his elder and younger sisters, his uncle and +aunt, with their daughter, Elizabeth--were now living at Three Rivers +in New France.[1] Embarking with the fishing fleet that yearly left +France for the Grand Banks, Radisson came early in the spring of 1654 +to Isle Percée at the mouth of the St. Lawrence. He was still a week's +journey from Three Rivers, but chance befriended him. Algonquin canoes +were on the way up the river to war on the Iroquois. Joining the +Indian canoes, he slipped past the hilly shores of the St. Lawrence and +in five days was between the main bank on the north side and the muddy +shallows of the Isle of Orleans. Sheering out where the Montmorency +roars over a precipice in a shining cataract, the canoes glided across +St. Charles River among the forests of masts heaving to the tide below +the beetling heights of Cape Diamond, Quebec. + +[Illustration: One of the earliest maps of the Great Lakes.] + +It was May, 1651, when he had first seen the turrets and spires of +Quebec glittering on the hillside in the sun; it was May, 1652, that +the Iroquois had carried him off from Three Rivers; and it was May, +1654, when he came again to his own. He was welcomed back as from the +dead. Changes had taken place in the interval of his captivity. A +truce had been arranged between the Iroquois and the French. Now that +the Huron missions had been wiped out by Iroquois wars, the Jesuits +regarded the truce as a Divine provision for a mission among the +Iroquois. The year that Radisson escaped from the Mohawks, Jesuit +priests had gone among them. A still greater change that was to affect +his life more vitally had taken place in the Radisson family. The year +that Radisson had been captured, the outraged people of Three Rivers +had seized a Mohawk chief and burned him to death. In revenge, the +Mohawks murdered the governor of Three Rivers and a company of +Frenchmen. Among the slain was the husband of Radisson's sister, +Marguerite. When Radisson returned, he found that his widowed sister +had married Médard Chouart Groseillers, a famous fur trader of New +France, who had passed his youth as a lay helper to the Jesuit missions +of Lake Huron.[2] Radisson was now doubly bound to the Jesuits by +gratitude and family ties. Never did pagan heart hear an evangel more +gladly than the Mohawks heard the Jesuits. The priests were welcomed +with acclaim, led to the Council Lodge, and presented with belts of +wampum. Not a suspicion of foul play seems to have entered the +Jesuits' mind. When the Iroquois proposed to incorporate into the +Confederacy the remnants of the Hurons, the Jesuits discerned nothing +in the plan but the most excellent means to convert pagan Iroquois by +Christian Hurons. Having gained an inch, the Iroquois demanded the +proverbial ell. They asked that a French settlement be made in the +Iroquois country. The Indians wanted a supply of firearms to war +against all enemies; and with a French settlement miles away from help, +the Iroquois could wage what war they pleased against the Algonquins +without fear of reprisals from Quebec--the settlement of white men +among hostiles would be hostage of generous treatment from New France. +Of these designs, neither priests nor governor had the slightest +suspicion. The Jesuits were thinking only of the Iroquois' soul; the +French, of peace with the Iroquois at any cost. + +In 1656 Major Dupuis and fifty Frenchmen had established a French +colony among the Iroquois.[3] The hardships of these pioneers form no +part of Radisson's life, and are, therefore, not set down here. Peace +not bought by a victory is an unstable foundation for Indian treaty. +The Mohawks were jealous that their confederates, the Onondagas, had +obtained the French settlement. In 1657, eighty Iroquois came to +Quebec to escort one hundred Huron refugees back to Onondaga for +adoption into the Confederacy. These Hurons were Christians, and the +two Jesuits, Paul Ragueneau and François du Péron, were appointed to +accompany them to their new abode. Twenty young Frenchmen joined the +party to seek their fortunes at the new settlement; but a man was +needed who could speak Iroquois. Glad to repay his debt to the +Jesuits, young Radisson volunteered to go as a _donné_, that is, a lay +helper vowed to gratuitous services. + +It was midsummer before all preparations had been made. On July 26, +the party of two hundred, made up of twenty Frenchmen, eighty Iroquois, +and a hundred Hurons, filed out of the gates of Montreal, and winding +round the foot of the mountain followed a trail through the forest that +took them past the Lachine Rapids. The Onondaga _voyageurs_ carried +the long birch canoes inverted on their shoulders, two Indians at each +end; and the other Iroquois trotted over the rocks with the Frenchmen's +baggage on their backs. The day was hot, the _portage_ long and +slippery with dank moisture. The Huron children fagged and fell +behind. At nightfall, thirty of the haughty Iroquois lost patience, +and throwing down their bundles made off for Quebec with the avowed +purpose of raiding the Algonquins. On the way, they paused to scalp +three Frenchmen at Montreal, cynically explaining that if the French +persisted in taking Algonquins into their arms, the white men need not +be surprised if the blow aimed at an Algonquin sometimes struck a +Frenchman. That act opened the eyes of the French to the real meaning +of the peace made with the Iroquois; but the little colony was beyond +recall. To insure the safety of the French among the Onondagas, the +French governor at Quebec seized a dozen Iroquois and kept them as +hostages of good conduct. + +Meanwhile, all was confusion on Lake St. Louis, where the last band of +colonists had encamped. The Iroquois had cast the Frenchmen's baggage +on the rocks and refused to carry it farther. Leaving the whites all +embarrassed, the Onondagas hurriedly embarked the Hurons and paddled +quickly out of sight. The act was too suddenly unanimous not to have +been premeditated. Why had the Iroquois carried the Hurons away from +the Frenchmen? Father Ragueneau at once suspected some sinister +purpose. Taking only a single sack of flour for food, he called for +volunteers among the twenty Frenchmen to embark in a leaky, old canoe +and follow the treacherous Onondagas. Young Radisson was one of the +first to offer himself. Six others followed his example; and the seven +Frenchmen led by the priest struck across the lake, leaving the others +to gather up the scattered baggage. + +The Onondagas were too deep to reveal their plots with seven armed +Frenchmen in pursuit. The Indians permitted the French boats to come +up with the main band. All camped together in the most friendly +fashion that night; but the next morning one Iroquois offered passage +in his canoe to one Frenchman, another Iroquois to another of the +whites, and by the third day, when they came to Lake St. Francis, the +old canoe had been abandoned. The French were scattered promiscuously +among the Iroquois, with no two whites in one boat. The Hurons were +quicker to read the signs of treachery than the French. There were +rumors of one hundred Mohawks lying in ambush at the Thousand Islands +to massacre the coming Hurons. On the morning of August 3 four Huron +warriors and two women seized a canoe, and to the great astonishment of +the encampment launched out before they could be stopped. Heading the +canoe back for Montreal, they broke out in a war chant of defiance to +the Iroquois. + +The Onondagas made no sign, but they evidently took council to delay no +longer. Again, when they embarked, they allowed no two whites in one +canoe. The boats spread out. Nothing was said to indicate anything +unusual. The lake lay like a silver mirror in the August sun. The +water was so clear that the Indians frequently paused to spear fish +lying below on the stones. At places the canoes skirted close to the +wood-fringed shore, and braves landed to shoot wild-fowl. Radisson and +Ragueneau seemed simultaneously to have noticed the same thing. +Without any signal, at about four in the afternoon, the Onondagas +steered their canoes for a wooded island in the middle of the St. +Lawrence. With Radisson were three Iroquois and a Huron. As the canoe +grated shore, the bowman loaded his musket and sprang into the thicket. +Naturally, the Huron turned to gaze after the disappearing hunter. +Instantly, the Onondaga standing directly behind buried his hatchet in +the Huron's head. The victim fell quivering across Radisson's feet and +was hacked to pieces by the other Iroquois. Not far along the shore +from Radisson, the priest was landing. He noticed an Iroquois chief +approach a Christian Huron girl. If the Huron had not been a convert, +she might have saved her life by becoming one of the chief's many +slaves; but she had repulsed the Onondaga pagan. As Ragueneau looked, +the girl fell dead with her skull split by the chief's war-axe. The +Hurons on the lake now knew what awaited them; and a cry of terror +arose from the children. Then a silence of numb horror settled over +the incoming canoes. The women were driven ashore like lambs before +wolves; but the valiant Hurons would not die without striking one blow +at their inveterate and treacherous enemies. They threw themselves +together back to back, prepared to fight. For a moment this show of +resistance drove off the Iroquois. Then the Onondaga chieftain rushed +forward, protesting that the two murders had been a personal quarrel. +Striking back his own warriors with a great show of sincerity, he bade +the Hurons run for refuge to the top of the hill. No sooner had the +Hurons broken rank, than there rushed from the woods scores of +Iroquois, daubed in war-paint and shouting their war-cry. This was the +hunt to which the young braves had dashed from the canoes to be in +readiness behind the thicket. Before the scattered Hurons could get +together for defence, the Onondagas had closed around the hilltop in a +cordon. The priest ran here, there, everywhere,--comforting the dying, +stopping mutilation, defending the women. All the Hurons were +massacred but one man, and the bodies were thrown into the river. With +blankets drawn over their heads that they might not see, the women +huddled together, dumb with terror. When the Onondagas turned toward +the women, the Frenchmen stood with muskets levelled. The Onondagas +halted, conferred, and drew off. + +[Illustration: Paddling past Hostiles.] + +The fight lasted for four hours. Darkness and the valor of the little +French band saved the women for the time. The Iroquois kindled a fire +and gathered to celebrate their victory. Then the old priest took his +life in his hands. Borrowing three belts of wampum, he left the +huddling group of Huron women and Frenchmen and marched boldly into the +circle of hostiles. The lives of all the French and Hurons hung by a +thread. Ragueneau had been the spiritual guide of the murdered tribe +for twenty years; and he was now sobbing like a child. The Iroquois +regarded his grief with sardonic scorn; but they misjudged the manhood +below the old priest's tears. Ragueneau asked leave to speak. They +grunted permission. Springing up, he broke into impassioned, fearless +reproaches of the Iroquois for their treachery. Casting one belt of +wampum at the Onondaga chief's feet, the priest demanded pledges that +the massacre cease. A second belt was given to register the Onondaga's +vow to conduct the women and children safely to the Iroquois country. +The third belt was for the safety of the French at Onondaga. + +The Iroquois were astonished. They had looked for womanish pleadings. +They had heard stern demands coupled with fearless threats of +punishment. When Ragueneau sat down, the Onondaga chief bestirred +himself to counteract the priest's powerful impression. Lounging to +his feet, the Onondaga impudently declared that the governor of Quebec +had instigated the massacre. Ragueneau leaped up with a denial that +took the lie from the scoundrel's teeth. The chief sat down abashed. +The Council grunted "Ho, ho!" accepting the wampum and promising all +that the Jesuit had asked. + + +Among the Thousand Islands, the French who had remained behind to +gather up the baggage again joined the Onondagas. They brought with +them from the Isle of Massacres a poor Huron woman, whom they had found +lying insensible on a rock. During the massacre she had hidden in a +hollow tree, where she remained for three days. In this region, +Radisson almost lost his life by hoisting a blanket sail to his canoe. +The wind drifted the boat so far out that Radisson had to throw all +ballast overboard to keep from being swamped. As they turned from the +St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario up the Oswego River for Onondaga, they +met other warriors of the Iroquois nation. In spite of pledges to the +priest, the meeting was celebrated by torturing the Huron women to +entertain the newcomers. Not the sufferings of the early Christians in +Rome exceeded the martyrdom of the Christian Hurons among the +Onondagas. As her mother mounted the scaffold of tortures, a little +girl who had been educated by the Ursulines of Quebec broke out with +loud weeping. The Huron mother turned calmly to the child:-- + +"Weep not my death, my little daughter! We shall this day be in +heaven," said she; "God will pity us to all eternity. The Iroquois +cannot rob us of that." + +As the flames crept about her, her voice was heard chanting in the +crooning monotone of Indian death dirge: "Jesu--have pity on us! +Jesu--have pity on us!" The next moment the child was thrown into the +flames, repeating the same words. + +The Iroquois recognized Radisson. He sent presents to his Mohawk +parents, who afterwards played an important part in saving the French +of Onondaga. Having passed the falls, they came to the French fort +situated on the crest of a hill above a lake. Two high towers +loopholed for musketry occupied the centre of the courtyard. Double +walls, trenched between, ran round a space large enough to enable the +French to keep their cattle inside the fort. The _voyageurs_ were +welcomed to Onondaga by Major Dupuis, fifty Frenchmen, and several +Jesuits. + + +The pilgrims had scarcely settled at Onondaga before signs of the +dangers that were gathering became too plain for the blind zeal of the +Jesuits to ignore. Cayugas, Onondagas, and Senecas, togged out in +war-gear, swarmed outside the palisades. There was no more dissembling +of hunger for the Jesuits' evangel. The warriors spoke no more soft +words, but spent their time feasting, chanting war-songs, heaving up +the war-hatchet against the kettle of sagamite--which meant the rupture +of peace. Then came four hundred Mohawks, who not only shouted their +war-songs, but built their wigwams before the fort gates and +established themselves for the winter like a besieging army. That the +intent of the entire Confederacy was hostile to Onondaga could not be +mistaken; but what was holding the Indians back? Why did they delay +the massacre? Then Huron slaves brought word to the besieged fort of +the twelve Iroquois hostages held at Quebec. The fort understood what +stayed the Iroquois blow. The Confederacy dared not attack the +isolated fort lest Quebec should take terrible vengeance on the +hostages. + +[Illustration: Jogues, the Jesuit missionary, who was tortured by the +Mohawks. From a painting in Château de Ramezay, Montreal.] + +The French decided to send messengers to Quebec for instructions before +closing navigation cut them off for the winter. Thirteen men and one +Jesuit left the fort the first week of September. Mohawk spies knew of +the departure and lay in ambush at each side of the narrow river to +intercept the party; but the messengers eluded the trap by striking +through the forests back from the river directly to the St. Lawrence. +Then the little fort closed its gates and awaited an answer from +Quebec. Winter settled over the land, blocking the rivers with ice and +the forest trails with drifts of snow; but no messengers came back from +Quebec. The Mohawks had missed the outgoing scouts: but they caught +the return coureurs and destroyed the letters. Not a soul could leave +the fort but spies dogged his steps. The Jesuits continued going from +lodge to lodge, and in this way Onondaga gained vague knowledge of the +plots outside the fort. The French could venture out only at the risk +of their lives, and spent the winter as closely confined as prisoners +of war. Of the ten drilled soldiers, nine threatened to desert. One +night an unseen hand plunged through the dark, seized the sentry, and +dragged him from the gate. The sentry drew his sword and shouted, "To +arms!" A band of Frenchmen sallied from the gates with swords and +muskets. In the tussle the sentry was rescued, and gifts were sent out +in the morning to pacify the wounded Mohawks. Fortunately the besieged +had plenty of food inside the stockades; but the Iroquois knew there +could be no escape till the ice broke up in spring, and were quite +willing to exchange ample supplies of corn for tobacco and firearms. +The Huron slaves who carried the corn to the fort acted as spies among +the Mohawks for the French. + +In the month of February the vague rumors of conspiracy crystallized +into terrible reality. A dying Mohawk confessed to a Jesuit that the +Iroquois[4] Council had determined to massacre half the company of +French and to hold the other half till their own Mohawk hostages were +released from Quebec. Among the hostiles encamped before the gates was +Radisson's Indian father. This Mohawk was still an influential member +of the Great Council. He, too, reported that the warriors were bent on +destroying Onondaga.[5] What was to be done? No answer had come from +Quebec, and no aid could come till the spring. The rivers were still +blocked with ice; and there were not sufficient boats in the fort to +carry fifty men down to Quebec. "What could we do?" writes Radisson. +"We were in their hands. It was as hard to get away from them as for a +ship in full sea without a pilot." + +They at once began constructing two large flat-bottomed boats of light +enough draft to run the rapids in the flood-tide of spring. Carpenters +worked hidden in an attic; but when the timbers were mortised together, +the boats had to be brought downstairs, where one of the Huron slaves +caught a glimpse of them. Boats of such a size he had never before +seen. Each was capable of carrying fifteen passengers with full +complement of baggage. Spring rains were falling in floods. The +convert Huron had heard the Jesuits tell of Noah's ark in the deluge. +Returning to the Mohawks, he spread a terrifying report of an impending +flood and of strange arks of refuge built by the white men. Emissaries +were appointed to visit the French fort; but the garrison had been +forewarned. Radisson knew of the coming spies from his Indian father; +and the Jesuits had learned of the Council from their converts. Before +the spies arrived, the French had built a floor over their flatboats, +and to cover the fresh floor had heaped up a dozen canoes. The spies +left the fort satisfied that neither a deluge nor an escape was +impending. Birch canoes would be crushed like egg-shells if they were +run through the ice jams of spring floods. Certain that their victims +were trapped, the Iroquois were in no haste to assault a double-walled +fort, where musketry could mow them down as they rushed the hilltop. +The Indian is bravest under cover; so the Mohawks spread themselves in +ambush on each side of the narrow river and placed guards at the falls +where any boats must be _portaged_. + +Of what good were the boats? To allay suspicion of escape, the Jesuits +continued to visit the wigwams.[6] The French were in despair. They +consulted Radisson, who could go among the Mohawks as with a charmed +life, and who knew the customs of the Confederacy so well. Radisson +proposed a way to outwit the savages. With this plan the priests had +nothing to do. To the harum-scarum Radisson belong the sole credit and +discredit of the escapade. On his device hung the lives of fifty +innocent men. These men must either escape or be massacred. Of +bloodshed, Radisson had already seen too much; and the youth of +twenty-one now no more proposed to stickle over the means of victory +than generals who wear the Victoria cross stop to stickle over means +to-day. + +Radisson knew that the Indians had implicit faith in dreams; so +Radisson had a dream.[7] He realized as critics of Indian customs fail +to understand that the fearful privations of savage life teach the +crime of waste. The Indian will eat the last morsel of food set before +him if he dies for it. He believes that the gods punish waste of food +by famine. The belief is a religious principle and the +feasts--_festins à tout manger_--are a religious act; so Radisson +dreamed--whether sleeping or waking--that the white men were to give a +great festival to the Iroquois. This dream he related to his Indian +father. The Indian like his white brother can clothe a vice under +religious mantle. The Iroquois were gluttonous on a religious +principle. Radisson's dream was greeted with joy. _Coureurs_ ran +through the forest, bidding the Mohawks to the feast. Leaving ambush +of forest and waterfall, the warriors hastened to the walls of +Onondaga. To whet their appetite, they were kept waiting outside for +two whole days. The French took turns in entertaining the waiting +guests. Boisterous games, songs, dances, and music kept the Iroquois +awake and hilarious to the evening of the second day. Inside the fort +bedlam reigned. Boats were dragged from floors to a sally-port at the +rear of the courtyard. Here firearms, ammunition, food, and baggage +were placed in readiness. Guns which could not be taken were burned or +broken. Ammunition was scattered in the snow. All the stock but one +solitary pig, a few chickens, and the dogs was sacrificed for the +feast, and in the barracks a score of men were laboring over enormous +kettles of meat. Had an Indian spy climbed to the top of a tree and +looked over the palisades, all would have been discovered; but the +French entertainers outside kept their guests busy. + +[Illustration: Château de Ramezay, Montreal, for years the residence of +the governor, and later the storehouse of the fur companies.] + +On the evening of the second day a great fire was kindled in the outer +enclosure, between the two walls. The trumpets blew a deafening blast. +The Mohawks answered with a shout. The French clapped their hands. +The outer gates were thrown wide open, and in trooped several hundred +Mohawk warriors, seating themselves in a circle round the fire. +Another blare of trumpets, and twelve enormous kettles of mincemeat +were carried round the circle of guests. A Mohawk chief rose solemnly +and gave his deities of earth, air, and fire profuse thanks for having +brought such generous people as the French among the Iroquois. Other +chiefs arose and declaimed to their hearers that earth did not contain +such hosts as the French. Before they had finished speaking there came +a second and a third and a fourth relay of kettles round the circle of +feasters. Not one Iroquois dared to refuse the food heaped before him. +By the time the kettles of salted fowl and venison and bear had passed +round the circle, each Indian was glancing furtively sideways to see if +his neighbor could still eat. He who was compelled to forsake the +feast first was to become the butt of the company. All the while the +French kept up a din of drums and trumpets and flageolets, dancing and +singing and shouting to drive off sleep. The eyes of the gorging +Indians began to roll. Never had they attempted to demolish such a +banquet. Some shook their heads and drew back. Others fell over in +the dead sleep that results from long fasting and overfeeding and fresh +air. Radisson was everywhere, urging the Iroquois to "Cheer up! cheer +up! If sleep overcomes you, you must awake! Beat the drum! Blow the +trumpet! Cheer up! Cheer up!" + +But the end of the repulsive scene was at hand. By midnight the +Indians had--in the language of the white man--"gone under the +mahogany." They lay sprawled on the ground in sodden sleep. Perhaps, +too, something had been dropped in the fleshpots to make their sleep +the sounder. Radisson does not say no, neither does the priest, and +they two were the only whites present who have written of the +episode.[8] But the French would hardly have been human if they had +not assured their own safety by drugging the feasters. It was a common +thing for the fur traders of a later period to prevent massacre and +quell riot by administering a quietus to Indians with a few drops of +laudanum. + +The French now retired to the inner court. The main gate was bolted +and chained. Through the loophole of this gate ran a rope attached to +a bell that was used to summon the sentry. To this rope the +mischievous Radisson tied the only remaining pig, so that when the +Indians would pull the rope for admission, the noise of the disturbed +pig would give the impression of a sentry's tramp-tramp on parade. +Stuffed effigies of soldiers were then stuck about the barracks. If a +spy climbed up to look over the palisades, he would see Frenchmen still +in the fort. While Radisson was busy with these precautions to delay +pursuit, the soldiers and priests, led by Major Dupuis, had broken open +the sally-port, forced the boats through sideways, and launched out on +the river. Speaking in whispers, they stowed the baggage in the +flat-boats, then brought out skiffs--dugouts to withstand the ice +jam--for the rest of the company. The night was raw and cold. A skim +of ice had formed on the margins of the river. Through the pitchy +darkness fell a sleet of rain and snow that washed out the footsteps of +the fugitives. The current of mid-river ran a noisy mill-race of ice +and log drift; and the _voyageurs_ could not see one boat length ahead. + +To men living in savagery come temptations that can neither be measured +nor judged by civilization. To the French at Onondaga came such a +temptation now. Their priests were busy launching the boats. The +departing soldiers seemed simultaneously to have become conscious of a +very black suggestion. Cooped up against the outer wall in the dead +sleep of torpid gluttony lay the leading warriors of the Iroquois +nation. Were these not the assassins of countless Frenchmen, the +murderers of women, the torturers of children? Had Providence not +placed the treacherous Iroquois in the hands of fifty Frenchmen? If +these warriors were slain, it would be an easy matter to march to the +villages of the Confederacy, kill the old men, and take prisoners the +women. New France would be forever free of her most deadly enemy. +Like the Indians, the white men were trying to justify a wrong under +pretence of good. By chance, word of the conspiracy was carried to the +Jesuits. With all the authority of the church, the priests forbade the +crime. "Their answer was," relates Radisson, "that they were sent to +instruct in the faith of Jesus Christ and not to destroy, and that the +cross must be their sword." + +Locking the sally-port, the company--as the Jesuit father +records--"shook the dust of Onondaga from their feet," launched out on +the swift-flowing, dark river and escaped "as the children of Israel +escaped by night from the land of Egypt." They had not gone far +through the darkness before the roar of waters told them of a cataract +ahead. They were four hours carrying baggage and boats over this +_portage_. Sleet beat upon their backs. The rocks were slippery with +glazed ice; and through the rotten, half-thawed snow, the men sank to +mid-waist. Navigation became worse on Lake Ontario; for the wind +tossed the lake like a sea, and ice had whirled against the St. +Lawrence in a jam. On the St. Lawrence, they had to wait for the +current to carry the ice out. At places they cut a passage through the +honeycombed ice with their hatchets, and again they were compelled to +_portage_ over the ice. The water was so high that the rapids were +safely ridden by all the boats but one, which was shipwrecked, and +three of the men were drowned. + +They had left Onondaga on the 20th of March, 1658. On the evening of +April 3d they came to Montreal, where they learned that New France had +all winter suffered intolerable insolence from the Iroquois, lest +punishment of the hostiles should endanger the French at Onondaga. The +fleeing colonists waited twelve days at Montreal for the ice to clear, +and were again held back by a jam at Three Rivers; but on April 23 they +moored safely under the heights of Quebec. + +_Coureurs_ from Onondaga brought word that the Mohawks had been +deceived by the pig and the ringing bell and the effigies for more than +a week. Crowing came from the chicken yard, dogs bayed in their +kennels, and when a Mohawk pulled the bell at the gate, he could hear +the sentry's measured march. At the end of seven days not a white man +had come from the fort. At first the Mohawks had thought the "black +robes" were at prayers; but now suspicions of trickery flashed on the +Iroquois. Warriors climbed the palisades and found the fort empty. +Two hundred Mohawks set out in pursuit; but the bad weather held them +back. And that was the way Radisson saved Onondaga.[9] + + +[1] The uncle, Pierre Esprit Radisson, is the one with whom careless +writers have confused the young hero, owing to identity of name. +Madeline Hénault has been described as the explorer's first wife, +notwithstanding genealogical impossibilities which make the explorer's +daughter thirty-six years old before he was seventeen. Even the +infallible Tanguay trips on Radisson's genealogy. I have before me the +complete record of the family taken from the parish registers of Three +Rivers and Quebec, by the indefatigable Mr. Sulte, whose explanation of +the case is this: that Radisson's mother, Madeline Hénault, first +married Sébastien Hayet, of St. Malo, to whom was born Marguerite about +1630; that her second husband was Pierre Esprit Radisson of Paris, to +whom were born our hero and the sisters Françoise and Elizabeth. + +[2] I have throughout referred to Médard Chouart, Sieur des +Groseillers, as simply "Groseillers," because that is the name +referring to him most commonly used in the _State Papers_ and old +histories. He was from Charly-Saint-Cyr, near Meaux, and is supposed +to have been born about 1621. His first wife was Helen Martin, +daughter of Abraham Martin, who gave his name to the Plains of Abraham. + +[3] This is the story of Onondaga which Parkman has told. +Unfortunately, when Parkman's account was written, _Radisson's +Journals_ were unknown and Mr. Parkman had to rely entirely on the +_Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_ and the _Jesuit Relations_. After +the discovery of _Radisson's Journals_, Parkman added a footnote to his +account of Onondaga, _quoting_ Radisson in confirmation. If Radisson +may be quoted to corroborate Parkman, Radisson may surely be accepted +as authentic. At the same time, I have compared this journal with +Father Ragueneau's of the same party, and the two tally in every detail. + +[4] See _Jesuit Relations_, 1657-1658. + +[5] _Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_. + +[6] See Ragueneau's account. + +[7] See _Marie de l'Incarnation_ and Dr. Dionne's modern monograph. + +[8] This account is drawn mainly from _Radisson's Journal_, partly from +Father Ragueneau, and in one detail from a letter of _Marie de +l'Incarnation_. Garneau says the feasters were drugged, but I cannot +find his authority for this, though from my knowledge of fur traders' +escapes, I fancy it would hardly have been human nature not to add a +sleeping potion to the kettles. + +[9] The _festins à tout manger_ must not be too sweepingly condemned by +the self-righteous white man as long as drinking bouts are a part of +civilized customs; and at least one civilized nation has the gross +proverb, "Better burst than waste." + + + + +CHAPTER III + +1658-1660 + +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE + +The Discovery of the Great Northwest--Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest--Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West--Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi--The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa--Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored + + +While Radisson was among the Iroquois, the little world of New France +had not been asleep. Before Radisson was born, Jean Nicolet of Three +Rivers had passed westward through the straits of Mackinaw and coasted +down Lake Michigan as far as Green Bay.[1] Some years later the great +Jesuit martyr, Jogues, had preached to the Indians of Sault Ste. Marie; +but beyond the Sault was an unknown world that beckoned the young +adventurers of New France as with the hands of a siren. Of the great +beyond--known to-day as the Great Northwest--nothing had been learned +but this: from it came the priceless stores of beaver pelts yearly +brought down the Ottawa to Three Rivers by the Algonquins, and in it +dwelt strange, wild races whose territory extended northwest and north +to unknown nameless seas. + +The Great Beyond held the two things most coveted by ambitious young +men of New France,--quick wealth by means of the fur trade and the +immortal fame of being a first explorer. Nicolet had gone only as far +as Green Bay and Fox River; Jogues not far beyond the Sault. What +secrets lay in the Great Unknown? Year after year young Frenchmen, +fired with the zeal of the explorer, joined wandering tribes of +Algonquins going up the Ottawa, in the hope of being taken beyond the +Sault. In August, 1656, there came from Green Bay two young Frenchmen +with fifty canoes of Algonquins, who told of far-distant waters called +Lake "Ouinipeg," and tribes of wandering hunters called "Christinos" +(Crees), who spent their winters in a land bare of trees (the prairie), +and their summers on the North Sea (Hudson's Bay). They also told of +other tribes, who were great warriors, living to the south,--these were +the Sioux. But the two Frenchmen had not gone beyond the Great +Lakes.[2] These Algonquins were received at Château St. Louis, Quebec, +with pompous firing of cannon and other demonstrations of welcome. So +eager were the French to take possession of the new land that thirty +young men equipped themselves to go back with the Indians; and the +Jesuits sent out two priests, Leonard Gareau and Gabriel Dreuillettes, +with a lay helper, Louis Boësme. The sixty canoes left Quebec with +more firing of guns for a God-speed; but at Lake St. Peter the Mohawks +ambushed the flotilla. The enterprise of exploring the Great Beyond +was abandoned by all the French but two. Gareau, who was mortally +wounded on the Ottawa, probably by a Frenchman or renegade hunter, died +at Montreal; and Dreuillettes did not go farther than Lake Nipissing. +Here, Dreuillettes learned much of the Unknown from an old Nipissing +chief. He heard of six overland routes to the bay of the North, whence +came such store of peltry.[3] He, too, like the two Frenchmen from +Green Bay, heard of wandering tribes who had no settled lodge like the +Hurons and Iroquois, but lived by the chase,--Crees and Sioux and +Assiniboines of the prairie, at constant war round a lake called +"Ouinipegouek." + +[Illustration: A Cree brave, with the wampum string.] + +By one of those curious coincidences of destiny which mark the lives of +nations and men, the young Frenchman who had gone with the Jesuit, +Dreuillettes, to Lake Nipissing when the other Frenchmen turned back, +was Médard Chouart Groseillers, the fur trader married to Radisson's +widowed sister, Marguerite.[4] + +When Radisson came back from Onondaga, he found his brother-in-law, +Groseillers, at Three Rivers, with ambitious designs of exploration in +the unknown land of which he had heard at Green Bay and on Lake +Nipissing. Jacques Cartier had discovered only one great river, had +laid the foundations of only one small province; Champlain had only +made the circuit of the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, and the Great Lakes; +but here was a country--if the Indians spoke the truth--greater than +all the empires of Europe together, a country bounded only by three +great seas, the Sea of the North, the Sea of the South, and the Sea of +Japan, a country so vast as to stagger the utmost conception of little +New France. + +It was unnecessary for Groseillers to say more. The ambition of young +Radisson took fire. Long ago, when a captive among the Mohawks, he had +cherished boyish dreams that it was to be his "destiny to discover many +wild nations"; and here was that destiny opening the door for him, +pointing the way, beckoning to the toils and dangers and glories of the +discoverer's life. Radisson had been tortured among the Mohawks and +besieged among the Onondagas. Groseillers had been among the Huron +missions that were destroyed and among the Algonquin canoes that were +attacked. Both explorers knew what perils awaited them; but what +youthful blood ever chilled at prospect of danger when a single _coup_ +might win both wealth and fame? Radisson had not been home one month; +but he had no sooner heard the plan than he "longed to see himself in a +boat." + +A hundred and fifty Algonquins had come down the Ottawa from the Great +Beyond shortly after Radisson returned from Onondaga. Six of these +Algonquins had brought their furs to Three Rivers. Some emissaries had +gone to Quebec to meet the governor; but the majority of the Indians +remained at Montreal to avoid the ambuscade of the Mohawks on Lake St. +Peter. Radisson and Groseillers were not the only Frenchmen conspiring +to wrest fame and fortune from the Upper Country. When the Indians +came back from Quebec, they were accompanied by thirty young French +adventurers, gay as boys out of school or gold hunters before the first +check to their plans. There were also two Jesuits sent out to win the +new domain for the cross.[5] As ignorant as children of the hardships +ahead, the other treasure-seekers kept up nonchalant boasting that +roused the irony of such seasoned men as Radisson and Groseillers. +"What fairer bastion than a good tongue," Radisson demands cynically, +"especially when one sees his own chimney smoke? . . . It is different +when food is wanting, work necessary day and night, sleep taken on the +bare ground or to mid-waist in water, with an empty stomach, weariness +in the bones, and bad weather overhead." + +Giving the slip to their noisy companions, Radisson and Groseillers +stole out from Three Rivers late one night in June, accompanied by +Algonquin guides. Travelling only at night to avoid Iroquois spies, +they came to Montreal in three days. Here were gathered one hundred +and forty Indians from the Upper Country, the thirty French, and the +two priests. No gun was fired at Montreal, lest the Mohawks should get +wind of the departure; and the flotilla of sixty canoes spread over +Lake St. Louis for the far venture of the _Pays d'en Haut_. Three days +of work had silenced the boasting of the gay adventurers; and the +_voyageurs_, white and red, were now paddling in swift silence. Safety +engendered carelessness. As the fleet seemed to be safe from Iroquois +ambush, the canoes began to scatter. Some loitered behind. Hunters +went ashore to shoot. The hills began to ring with shot and call. At +the first _portage_ many of the canoes were nine and ten miles apart. +Enemies could have set on the Algonquins in some narrow defile and +slaughtered the entire company like sheep in a pen. Radisson and +Groseillers warned the Indians of the risk they were running. Many of +these Algonquins had never before possessed firearms. With the muskets +obtained in trade at Three Rivers, they thought themselves invincible +and laughed all warning to scorn. Radisson and Groseillers were told +that they were a pair of timid squaws; and the canoes spread apart till +not twenty were within call. As they skirted the wooded shores, a man +suddenly dashed from the forest with an upraised war-hatchet in one +hand and a blanket streaming from his shoulders. He shouted for them +to come to him. The Algonquins were panic-stricken. Was the man +pursued by Mohawks, or laying a trap to lure them within shooting +range? Seeing them hesitate, the Indian threw down blanket and hatchet +to signify that he was defenceless, and rushed into the water to his +armpits. + +"I would save you," he shouted in Iroquois. + +The Algonquins did not understand. They only knew that he spoke the +tongue of the hated enemy and was unarmed. In a trice, the Algonquins +in the nearest canoe had thrown out a well-aimed lasso, roped the man +round the waist, and drawn him a captive into the canoe. + +"Brothers," protested the captive, who seems to have been either a +Huron slave or an Iroquois magician, "your enemies are spread up and +down! Sleep not! They have heard your noise! They wait for you! +They are sure of their prey! Believe me--keep together! Spend not +your powder in vain to frighten your enemies by noise! See that the +stones of your arrows be not bent! Bend your bows! Keep your hatchets +sharp! Build a fort! Make haste!" + +But the Algonquins, intoxicated with the new power of firearms, would +hear no warning. They did not understand his words and refused to heed +Radisson's interpretation. Beating paddles on their canoes and firing +off guns, they shouted derisively that the man was "a dog and a hen." +All the same, they did not land to encamp that night, but slept in +midstream, with their boats tied to the rushes or on the lee side of +floating trees. The French lost heart. If this were the beginning, +what of the end? Daylight had scarcely broken when the paddles of the +eager _voyageurs_ were cutting the thick gray mist that rose from the +river to get away from observation while the fog still hid the fleet. +From afar came the dull, heavy rumble of a waterfall.[6] + +There was a rush of the twelve foremost canoes to reach the landing and +cross the _portage_ before the thinning mist lifted entirely. Twelve +boats had got ashore when the fog was cleft by a tremendous crashing of +guns, and Iroquois ambushed in the bordering forest let go a salute of +musketry. Everything was instantly in confusion. Abandoning their +baggage to the enemy, the Algonquins and French rushed for the woods to +erect a barricade. This would protect the landing of the other canoes. +The Iroquois immediately threw up a defence of fallen logs likewise, +and each canoe that came ashore was greeted with a cross fire between +the two barricades. Four canoes were destroyed and thirteen of the +Indians from the Upper Country killed. As day wore on, the Iroquois' +shots ceased, and the Algonquins celebrated the truce by killing and +devouring all the prisoners they had taken, among whom was the magician +who had given them warning. Radisson and Groseillers wondered if the +Iroquois were reserving their powder for a night raid. The Algonquins +did not wait to know. As soon as darkness fell, there was a wild +scramble for the shore. A long, low trumpet call, such as hunters use, +signalled the Algonquins to rally and rush for the boats. The French +embarked as best they could. The Indians swam and paddled for the +opposite shore of the river. Here, in the dark, hurried council was +taken. The most of the baggage had been lost. The Indians refused to +help either the Jesuits or the French, and it was impossible for the +white _voyageurs_ to keep up the pace in the dash across an unknown +_portage_ through the dark. The French adventurers turned back for +Montreal. Of the white men, Radisson and Groseillers alone went on. + +Frightened into their senses by the encounter, the Algonquins now +travelled only at night till they were far beyond range of the +Iroquois. All day the fugitive band lay hidden in the woods. They +could not hunt, lest Mohawk spies might hear the gunshots. Provisions +dwindled. In a short time the food consisted of _tripe de roche_--a +greenish moss boiled into a soup--and the few fish that might be caught +during hurried nightly launch or morning landing. Sometimes they hid +in a berry patch, when the fruit was gathered and boiled, but +camp-fires were stamped out and covered. Turning westward, they +crossed the barren region of iron-capped rocks and dwarf growth between +the Upper Ottawa and the Great Lakes. Now they were farther from the +Iroquois, and staved off famine by shooting an occasional bear in the +berry patches. For a thousand miles they had travelled against stream, +carrying their boats across sixty _portages_. Now they glided with the +current westward to Lake Nipissing. On the lake, the Upper Indians +always _cached_ provisions. Fish, otter, and beaver were plentiful; +but again they refrained from using firearms, for Iroquois footprints +had been found on the sand. + +From Lake Nipissing they passed to Lake Huron, where the fleet divided. +Radisson and Groseillers went with the Indians, who crossed Lake Huron +for Green Bay on Lake Michigan. The birch canoes could not venture +across the lake in storms; so the boats rounded southward, keeping +along the shore of Georgian Bay. Cedar forests clustered down the +sandy reaches of the lake. Rivers dark as cathedral aisles rolled +their brown tides through the woods to the blue waters of Lake Huron. +At one point Groseillers recognized the site of the ruined Jesuit +missions. The Indians waited the chance of a fair day, and paddled +over to the straits at the entrance to Lake Michigan. At Manitoulin +Island were Huron refugees, among whom were, doubtless, the waiting +families of the Indians with Radisson. All struck south for Green Bay. +So far Radisson and Groseillers had travelled over beaten ground. Now +they were at the gateway of the Great Beyond, where no white man had +yet gone. + +The first thing done on taking up winter quarters on Green Bay was to +appease the friends of those warriors slain by the Mohawks. A +distribution of gifts had barely dried up the tears of mourning when +news came of Iroquois on the war-path. Radisson did not wait for fear +to unman the Algonquin warriors. Before making winter camp, he offered +to lead a band of volunteers against the marauders. For two days he +followed vague tracks through the autumn-tinted forests. Here were +markings of the dead leaves turned freshly up; there a moccasin print +on the sand; and now the ashes of a hidden camp-fire lying in almost +imperceptible powder on fallen logs told where the Mohawks had +bivouacked. On the third day Radisson caught the ambushed band +unprepared, and fell upon the Iroquois so furiously that not one +escaped. + +After that the Indians of the Upper Country could not do too much for +the white men. Radisson and Groseillers were conducted from camp to +camp in triumph. Feasts were held. Ambassadors went ahead with gifts +from the Frenchmen; and companies of women marched to meet the +explorers, chanting songs of welcome. "But our mind was not to stay +here," relates Radisson, "but to know the remotest people; and, because +we had been willing to die in their defence, these Indians consented to +conduct us." + +Before the opening of spring, 1659, Radisson and Groseillers had been +guided across what is now Wisconsin to "a mighty river, great, rushing, +profound, and comparable to the St. Lawrence." [7] On the shores of +the river they found a vast nation--"the people of the fire," prairie +tribes, a branch of the Sioux, who received them well.[8] This river +was undoubtedly the Upper Mississippi, now for the first time seen by +white men. Radisson and Groseillers had discovered the Great +Northwest.[9] They were standing on the threshold of the Great Beyond. +They saw before them not the Sea of China, as speculators had dreamed, +not kingdoms for conquest, which the princes of Europe coveted; not a +short road to Asia, of which savants had spun a cobweb of theories. +They saw what every Westerner sees to-day,--illimitable reaches of +prairie and ravine, forested hills sloping to mighty rivers, and open +meadow-lands watered by streams looped like a ribbon. They saw a land +waiting for its people, wealth waiting for possessors, an empire +waiting for the nation builders. + +[Illustration: An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux.] + +What were Radisson's thoughts? Did he realize the importance of his +discovery? Could he have the vaguest premonition that he had opened a +door of escape from stifled older lands to a higher type of manhood and +freedom than the most sanguine dreamer had ever hoped?[10] After an +act has come to fruition, it is easy to read into the actor's mind +fuller purpose than he could have intended. Columbus could not have +realized to what the discovery of America would lead. Did Radisson +realize what the discovery of the Great Northwest meant? + +Here is what he says, in that curious medley of idioms which so often +results when a speaker knows many languages but is master of none:-- + +"The country was so pleasant, so beautiful, and so fruitful, that it +grieved me to see that the world could not discover such inticing +countries to live in. This, I say, because the Europeans fight for a +rock in the sea against one another, or for a steril land . . . where +the people by changement of air engender sickness and die. . . . +Contrariwise, these kingdoms are so delicious and under so temperate a +climate, plentiful of all things, and the earth brings forth its fruit +twice a year, that the people live long and lusty and wise in their +way. What a conquest would this be, at little or no cost? What +pleasure should people have . . . instead of misery and poverty! Why +should not men reap of the love of God here? Surely, more is to be +gained converting souls here than in differences of creed, when wrongs +are committed under pretence of religion! . . . It is true, I +confess, . . . that access here is difficult . . . but nothing is to be +gained without labor and pains." [11] + +[Illustration: Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in +Montreal by Mr. McNab. The date on the picture is 1669.] + +Here Radisson foreshadows all the best gains that the West has +accomplished for the human race. What are they? Mainly room,--room to +live and room for opportunity; equal chances for all classes, high and +low; plenty for all classes, high and low; the conquests not of war but +of peace. The question arises,--when Radisson discovered the Great +Northwest ten years before Marquette and Jolliet, twenty years before +La Salle, a hundred years before De la Vérendrye, why has his name been +slurred over and left in oblivion?[12] The reasons are plain. +Radisson was a Christian, but he was not a slave to any creed. Such +liberality did not commend itself to the annalists of an age that was +still rioting in a very carnival of religious persecution. Radisson +always invoked the blessing of Heaven on his enterprises and rendered +thanks for his victories; but he was indifferent as to whether he was +acting as lay helper with the Jesuits, or allied to the Huguenots of +London and Boston. His discoveries were too important to be ignored by +the missionaries. They related his discoveries, but refrained from +mentioning his name, though twice referring to Groseillers. What hurt +Radisson's fame even more than his indifference to creeds was his +indifference to nationality. Like Columbus, he had little care what +flag floated at the prow, provided only that the prow pushed on and on +and on,--into the Unknown. He sold his services alternately to France +and England till he had offended both governments; and, in addition to +withstanding a conspiracy of silence on the part of the Church, his +fame encountered the ill-will of state historians. He is mentioned as +"the adventurer," "the hang-dog," "the renegade." Only in 1885, when +the manuscript of his travels was rescued from oblivion, did it become +evident that history must be rewritten. Here was a man whose +discoveries were second only to those of Columbus, and whose +explorations were more far-ranging and important than those of +Champlain and La Salle and De la Vérendrye put together. + + +The spring of 1659 found the explorers still among the prairie tribes +of the Mississippi. From these people Radisson learned of four other +races occupying vast, undiscovered countries. He heard of the Sioux, a +warlike nation to the west, who had no fixed abode but lived by the +chase and were at constant war with another nomadic tribe to the +north--the Crees. The Crees spent the summer time round the shores of +salt water, and in winter came inland to hunt. Between these two was a +third,--the Assiniboines,--who used earthen pots for cooking, heated +their food by throwing hot stones in water, and dressed themselves in +buckskin. These three tribes were wandering hunters; but the people of +the fire told Radisson of yet another nation, who lived in villages +like the Iroquois, on "a great river that divided itself in two," and +was called "the Forked River," because "it had two branches, the one +toward the west, the other toward the south, . . . toward Mexico." +These people were the Mandans or Omahas, or Iowas, or other people of +the Missouri.[13] + +A whole world of discoveries lay before them. In what direction should +they go? "We desired not to go to the north till we had made a +discovery in the south," explains Radisson. The people of the fire +refused to accompany the explorers farther; so the two "put themselves +in hazard," as Radisson relates, and set out alone. They must have +struck across the height of land between the Mississippi and the +Missouri; for Radisson records that they met several nations having +villages, "all amazed to see us and very civil. The farther we +sojourned, the delightfuller the land became. I can say that in all my +lifetime I have never seen a finer country, for all that I have been in +Italy. The people have very long hair. They reap twice a year. They +war against the Sioux and the Cree. . . . It was very hot there. . . . +Being among the people they told us . . . of men that built great +cabins and have beards and have knives like the French." The Indians +showed Radisson a string of beads only used by Europeans. These people +must have been the Spaniards of the south. The tribes on the Missouri +were large men of well-formed figures. There were no deformities among +the people. Radisson saw corn and pumpkins in their gardens. "Their +arrows were not of stone, but of fish bones. . . . Their dishes were +made of wood. . . . They had great calumets of red and green +stone . . . and great store of tobacco. . . . They had a kind of drink +that made them mad for a whole day." [14] "We had not yet seen the +Sioux," relates Radisson. "We went toward the south and came back by +the north." The _Jesuit Relations_ are more explicit. Written the +year that Radisson returned to Quebec, they state: "Continuing their +wanderings, our two young Frenchmen visited the Sioux, where they found +five thousand warriors. They then left this nation for another warlike +people, who with bows and arrows had rendered themselves redoubtable." +These were the Crees, with whom, say the Jesuits, wood is so rare and +small that nature has taught them to make fire of a kind of coal and to +cover their cabins with skins of the chase. The explorers seem to have +spent the summer hunting antelope, buffalo, moose, and wild turkey. +The Sioux received them cordially, supplied them with food, and gave +them an escort to the next encampments. They had set out southwest to +the Mascoutins, Mandans, and perhaps, also, the Omahas. They were now +circling back northeastward toward the Sault between Lake Michigan and +Lake Superior. How far westward had they gone? Only two facts gave +any clew. Radisson reports that mountains lay far inland; and the +Jesuits record that the explorers were among tribes that used coal. +This must have been a country far west of the Mandans and Mascoutins +and within sight of at least the Bad Lands, or that stretch of rough +country between the prairie and outlying foothills of the Rockies.[15] +The course of the first exploration seems to have circled over the +territory now known as Wisconsin, perhaps eastern Iowa and Nebraska, +South Dakota, Montana, and back over North Dakota and Minnesota to the +north shore of Lake Superior. "The lake toward the north is full of +rocks, yet great ships can ride in it without danger," writes Radisson. +At the Sault they found the Crees and Sautaux in bitter war. They also +heard of a French establishment, and going to visit it found that the +Jesuits had established a mission. + +Radisson had explored the Southwest. He now decided to essay the +Northwest. When the Sautaux were at war with the Crees, he met the +Crees and heard of the great salt sea in the north. Surely this was +the Sea of the North--Hudson Bay--of which the Nipissing chief had told +Groseillers long ago. Then the Crees had great store of beaver pelts; +and trade must not be forgotten. No sooner had peace been arranged +between Sautaux and Crees, than Cree hunters flocked out of the +northern forests to winter on Lake Superior. A rumor of Iroquois on +the war-path compelled Radisson and Groseillers to move their camp back +from Lake Superior higher up the chain of lakes and rivers between what +is now Minnesota and Canada, toward the country of the Sioux. In the +fall of 1659 Groseillers' health began to fail from the hardships; so +he remained in camp for the winter, attending to the trade, while +Radisson carried on the explorations alone. + +This was one of the coldest winters known in Canada.[16] The snow fell +so heavily in the thick pine woods of Minnesota that Radisson says the +forest became as sombre as a cellar. The colder the weather the better +the fur, and, presenting gifts to insure safe conduct, Radisson set out +with a band of one hundred and fifty Cree hunters for the Northwest. +They travelled on snow-shoes, hunting moose on the way and sleeping at +night round a camp-fire under the stars. League after league, with no +sound through the deathly white forest but the soft crunch-crunch of +the snowshoes, they travelled two hundred miles toward what is now +Manitoba. When they had set out, the snow was like a cushion. Now it +began to melt in the spring sun, and clogged the snow-shoes till it was +almost impossible to travel. In the morning the surface was glazed +ice, and they could march without snow-shoes. Spring thaw called a +halt to their exploration. The Crees encamped for three weeks to build +boats. As soon as the ice cleared, the band launched back down-stream +for the appointed rendezvous on Green Bay. All that Radisson learned +on this trip was that the Bay of the North lay much farther from Lake +Superior than the old Nipissing chief had told Dreuillettes and +Groseillers.[17] + +Groseillers had all in readiness to depart for Quebec; and five hundred +Indians from the Upper Country had come together to go down the Ottawa +and St. Lawrence with the explorers. As they were about to embark, +_coureurs_ came in from the woods with news that more than a thousand +Iroquois were on the war-path, boasting that they would exterminate the +French.[18] Somewhere along the Ottawa a small band of Hurons had been +massacred. The Indians with Groseillers and Radisson were terrified. +A council of the elders was called. + +"Brothers, why are ye so foolish as to put yourselves in the hands of +those that wait for you?" demanded an old chief, addressing the two +white men. "The Iroquois will destroy you and carry you away captive. +Will you have your brethren, that love you, slain? Who will baptize +our children?" (Radisson and Groseillers had baptized more than two +hundred children.[19]) "Stay till next year! Then you may freely go! +Our mothers will send their children to be taught in the way of the +Lord!" + +Fear is like fire. It must be taken in the beginning, or it spreads. +The explorers retired, decided on a course of action, and requested the +Indians to meet them in council a second time. Eight hundred warriors +assembled, seating themselves in a circle. Radisson and Groseillers +took their station in the centre.[20] + +"Who am I?" demanded Groseillers, hotly. "Am I a foe or a friend? If +a foe, why did you suffer me to live? If a friend, listen what I say! +You know that we risked our lives for you! If we have no courage, why +did you not tell us? If you have more wit than we, why did you not use +it to defend yourselves against the Iroquois? How can you defend your +wives and children unless you get arms from the French!" + +"Fools," cried Radisson, striking a beaver skin across an Indian's +shoulder, "will you fight the Iroquois with beaver pelts? Do you not +know the French way? We fight with guns, not robes. The Iroquois will +coop you up here till you have used all your powder, and then despatch +you with ease! Shall your children be slaves because you are cowards? +Do what you will! For my part I choose to die like a man rather than +live like a beggar. Take back your beaver robes. We can live without +you--" and the white men strode out from the council. + +Consternation reigned among the Indians. There was an uproar of +argument. For six days the fate of the white men hung fire. Finally +the chiefs sent word that the five hundred young warriors would go to +Quebec with the white men. Radisson did not give their ardor time to +cool. They embarked at once. The fleet of canoes crossed the head of +the lakes and came to the Upper Ottawa without adventure. Scouts went +ahead to all the _portages_, and great care was taken to avoid an +ambush when passing overland. Below the Chaudière Falls the scouts +reported that four Iroquois boats had crossed the river. Again +Radisson did not give time for fear. He sent the lightest boats in +pursuit; and while keeping the enemy thus engaged with half his own +company on guard at the ends of the long _portage_, he hurriedly got +cargoes and canoes across the landing. The Iroquois had fled. By that +Radisson knew they were weak. Somewhere along the Long Sault Rapids, +the scouts saw sixteen Iroquois canoes. The Indians would have thrown +down their goods and fled, but Radisson instantly got his forces in +hand and held them with a grip of steel. Distributing loaded muskets +to the bravest warriors, he pursued the Iroquois with a picked company +of Hurons, Algonquins, Sautaux, and Sioux. Beating their paddles, +Radisson's company shouted the war-cry till the hills rang; but all the +warriors were careful not to waste an ounce of powder till within +hitting range. The Iroquois were not used to this sort of defence. +They fled. The Long Sault was always the most dangerous part of the +Ottawa. Radisson kept scouts to rear and fore, but the Iroquois had +deserted their boats and were hanging on the flanks of the company to +attempt an ambush. It was apparent that a fort had been erected at the +foot of the rapids. Leaving half the band in their boats, Radisson +marched overland with two hundred warriors. Iroquois shots spattered +from each side; but the Huron muskets kept the assailants at a +distance, and those of Radisson's warriors who had not guns were armed +with bows and arrows, and wore a shield of buffalo skin dried hard as +metal. The Iroquois rushed for the barricade at the foot of the Sault. +Five of them were picked off as they ran. For a moment the Iroquois +were out of cover, and their weakness was betrayed. They had only one +hundred and fifty men, while Radisson had five hundred; but the odds +would not long be in his favor. Ammunition was running out, and the +enemy must be dislodged without wasting a shot. Radisson called back +encouragement to his followers. They answered with a shout. Tying the +beaver pelts in great bundles, the Indians rolled the fur in front +nearer and nearer the Iroquois boats, keeping under shelter from the +shots of the fort. The Iroquois must either lose their boats and be +cut off from escape, or retire from the fort. It was not necessary for +Radisson's warriors to fire a shot. Abandoning even their baggage and +glad to get off with their lives, the Iroquois dashed to save their +boats. + +[Illustration: Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River.] + +A terrible spectacle awaited Radisson inside the enclosure of the +palisades.[21] The scalps of dead Indians flaunted from the pickets. +Not a tree but was spattered with bullet marks as with bird shot. Here +and there burnt holes gaped in the stockades like wounds. Outside +along the river bank lay the charred bones of captives who had been +burned. The scarred fort told its own tale. Here refugees had been +penned up by the Iroquois till thirst and starvation did their work. +In the clay a hole had been dug for water by the parched victims, and +the ooze through the mud eagerly scooped up. Only when he reached +Montreal did Radisson learn the story of the dismantled fort. The +rumor carried to the explorers on Lake Michigan of a thousand Iroquois +going on the war-path to exterminate the French had been only too true. +Half the warriors were to assault Quebec, half to come down on Montreal +from the Ottawa. One thing only could save the French--to keep the +bands apart. Those on the Ottawa had been hunting all winter and must +necessarily be short of powder. To intercept them, a gallant band of +seventeen French, four Algonquins, and sixty Hurons led by Dollard took +their stand at the Long Sault. The French and their Indian allies were +boiling their kettles when two hundred Iroquois broke from the woods. +There was no time to build a fort. Leaving their food, Dollard and his +men threw themselves into the rude palisades which Indians had erected +the previous year. The Iroquois kept up a constant fire and sent for +reinforcements of six hundred warriors, who were on the Richelieu. In +defiance the Indians fighting for the French sallied out, scalped the +fallen Iroquois, and hoisted the sanguinary trophies on long poles +above the pickets. The enraged Iroquois redoubled their fury. The +fort was too small to admit all the Hurons; and when the Iroquois came +up from the Richelieu with Huron renegades among their warriors, the +Hurons deserted their French allies and went over in a body to the +enemy. For two days the French had fought against two hundred +Iroquois. For five more days they fought against eight hundred. "The +worst of it was," relates Radisson, "the French had no water, as we +plainly saw; for they had made a hole in the ground out of which they +could get but little because the fort was on a hill. It was pitiable. +There was not a tree but what was shot with bullets. The Iroquois had +rushed to make a breach (in the wall). . . . The French set fire to a +barrel of powder to drive the Iroquois back . . . but it fell inside +the fort. . . . Upon this, the Iroquois entered . . . so that not one +of the French escaped. . . . It was terrible . . . for we came there +eight days after the defeat." [22] + +Without a doubt it was Dollard's splendid fight that put fear in the +hearts of the Iroquois who fled before Radisson. The passage to +Montreal was clear. The boats ran the rapids without unloading; but +Groseillers almost lost his life. His canoe caught on a rock in +midstream, but righting herself shot down safely to the landing with no +greater loss than a damaged keel. The next day, after two years' +absence, Radisson and Groseillers arrived at Montreal. A brief stop +was made at Three Rivers for rest till twenty citizens had fitted out +two shallops with cannon to escort the discoverers in fitting pomp to +Quebec. As the fleet of canoes glided round Cape Diamond, battery and +bastion thundered a welcome. Welcome they were, and thrice welcome; +for so ceaseless had been the Iroquois wars that the three French ships +lying at anchor would have returned to France without a single beaver +skin if the explorers had not come. Citizens shouted from the terraced +heights of Château St. Louis, and bells rang out the joy of all New +France over the discoverers' return. For a week Radisson and +Groseillers were fêted. Viscomte d'Argenson, the new governor, +presented them with gifts and sent two brigantines to carry them home +to Three Rivers. There they rested for the remainder of the year, +Groseillers at his seigniory with his wife, Marguerite; Radisson, under +the parental roof.[23] + + +[1] Mr. Benjamin Sulte establishes this date as 1634. + +[2] See _Jesuit Relations_, 1656-57-58. I have purposely refrained +from entering into the heated controversy as to the identity of these +two men. It is apart from the subject, as there is no proof these men +went beyond the Green Bay region. + +[3] These routes were; (1) By the Saguenay, (2) by Three Rivers and the +St. Maurice, (3) by Lake Nipissing, (4) by Lake Huron, through the land +of the Sautaux, (5) by Lake Superior overland, (6) by the Ottawa. See +_Jesuit Relations_ for detailed accounts of these routes. Dreuillettes +went farther west to the Crees a few years later, but that does not +concern this narrative. + +[4] The dispute as to whether eastern Minnesota was discovered on the +1654-55-56 trip, and whether Groseillers discovered it, is a point for +savants, but will, I think, remain an unsettled dispute. + +[5] The _Relations_ do not give the names of these two Jesuits, +probably owing to the fact that the enterprise failed. They simply +state that two priests set out, but were compelled to remain behind +owing to the caprice of the savages. + +[6] Whether they were now on the Ottawa or the St. Lawrence, it is +impossible to tell. Dr. Dionne thinks that the band went overland from +Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. I know both waters--Lake Ontario and the +Ottawa--from many trips, and I think Radisson's description here +tallies with his other descriptions of the Ottawa. It is certain that +they must have been on the Ottawa before they came to the Lake of the +Castors or Nipissing. The noise of the waterfall seems to point to the +Chaudière Falls of the Ottawa. If so, the landing place would be the +tongue of land running out from Hull, opposite the city of Ottawa, and +the _portage_ would be the Aylmer Road beyond the rapids above the +falls. Mr. Benjamin Sulte, the scholarly historian, thinks they went +by way of the Ottawa, not Lake Ontario, as the St. Lawrence route was +not used till 1702. + +[7] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[8] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660, and _Radisson's Journal_. These "people +of the fire," or Mascoutins, were in three regions, (1) Wisconsin, (2) +Nebraska, (3) on the Missouri. See Appendix E. + +[9] Benjamin Sulte unequivocally states that the river was the +Mississippi. Of writers contemporaneous with Radisson, the Jesuits, +Marie de l'Incarnation, and Charlevoix corroborate Radisson's account. +In the face of this, what are we to think of modern writers with a +reputation to lose, who brush Radisson's exploits aside as a possible +fabrication? The only conclusion is that they have not read his +_Journal_. + +[10] I refer to Radisson alone, because for half the time in 1659 +Groseillers was ill at the lake, and we cannot be sure that he +accompanied Radisson in all the journeys south and west, though +Radisson generously always includes him as "we." Besides, Groseillers +seems to have attended to the trading, Radisson to the exploring. + +[11] If any one cares to render Radisson's peculiar jumble of French, +English, Italian, and Indian idioms into more intelligent form, they +may try their hand at it. His meaning is quite clear; but the words +are a medley. The passage is to be found on pp. 150-151, of the +_Prince Society Reprint_. See also _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[12] It will be noted that what I claim for Radisson is the honor of +discovering the Great Northwest, and refrain from trying to identify +his movements with the modern place names of certain states. I have +done this intentionally--though it would have been easy to advance +opinions about Green Bay, Fox River, and the Wisconsin, and so become +involved in the childish quarrel that has split the western historical +societies and obscured the main issue of Radisson's feat. Needless to +say, the world does not care whether Radisson went by way of the +Menominee, or snow-shoed across country. The question is: Did he reach +the Mississippi Valley before Marquette and Jolliet and La Salle? That +question this chapter answers. + +[13] I have refrained from quoting Radisson's names for the different +Indian tribes because it would only be "caviare to the general." If +Radisson's manuscript be consulted it will be seen that the crucial +point is the whereabouts of the Mascoutins--or people of the fire. +Reference to the last part of Appendix E will show that these people +extended far beyond the Wisconsin to the Missouri. It is ignorance of +this fact that has created such bitter and childish controversy about +the exact direction taken by Radisson west-north-west of the +Mascoutins. The exact words of the document in the Marine Department +are; "In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very +numerous with whom we have no commerce who are trading yet with nobody. +Above Missoury river which is in the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins, Nadoessioux (Sioux) +with whom we trade and who are numerous." Benjamin Sulte was one of +the first to discover that the Mascoutins had been in Nebraska, though +he does not attempt to trace this part of Radisson's journey definitely. + +[14] The entire account of the people on "the Forked River" is so exact +an account of the Mandans that it might be a page from Catlin's +descriptions two centuries later. The long hair, the two crops a year, +the tobacco, the soap-stone calumets, the stationary villages, the +knowledge of the Spaniards, the warm climate--all point to a region far +south of the Northern States, to which so many historians have stupidly +and with almost wilful ignorance insisted on limiting Radisson's +travels. Parkman has been thoroughly honest in the matter. His _La +Salle_ had been written before the discovery of the _Radisson +Journals_; but in subsequent editions he acknowledges in a footnote +that Radisson had been to "the Forked River." Other writers (with the +exception of five) have been content to quote from Radisson's enemies +instead of going directly to his journals. Even Garneau slurs over +Radisson's explorations; but Garneau, too, wrote before the discovery +of the Radisson papers. Abbé Tanguay, who is almost infallible on +French-Canadian matters, slips up on Radisson, because his writings +preceded the publication of the _Radisson Relations_. The five writers +who have attempted to redeem Radisson's memory from ignominy are: Dr. +N. E. Dionne, of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec; Mr. Justice +Prudhomme, of St. Boniface, Manitoba; Dr. George Bryce, of Winnepeg, +Mr. Benjamin Sulte, of Ottawa; and Judge J. V. Brower, of St. Paul. It +ever a monument be erected to Radisson--as one certainly ought in every +province and state west of the Great Lakes--the names of these four +champions should be engraved upon it. + +[15] This claim will, I know, stagger preconceived ideas. In the light +of only Radisson's narrative, the third voyage has usually been +identified with Wisconsin and Minnesota; but in the light of the +_Jesuit Relations_, written the year that Radisson returned, to what +tribes could the descriptions apply? Even Parkman's footnote +acknowledged that Radisson was among the people of the Missouri. Grant +that, and the question arises, What people on the Missouri answer the +description? The Indians of the far west use not only coal for fire, +but raw galena to make bullets for their guns. In fact, it was that +practice of the tribes of Idaho that led prospectors to find the Blue +Bell Mine of Kootenay. Granting that the Jesuit account--which was of +course, from hearsay--mistook the use of turf, dry grass, or buffalo +refuse for a kind of coal, the fact remains that only the very far +western tribes had this custom. + +[16] _Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_. + +[17] _Jesuit Relations_, 1658. + +[18] See Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, and Abbé Belmont. + +[19] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[20] It may be well to state as nearly as possible exactly _what_ +tribes Radisson had met in this trip. Those rejoined on the way up at +Manitoulin Island were refugee Hurons and Ottawas. From the Hurons, +Ottawas, and Algonquins of Green Bay, Radisson went west with +Pottowatomies, from them to the Escotecke or Sioux of the Fire, namely +a branch of the Mascoutins. From these Wisconsin Mascoutins, he learns +of the Nadoneceroron, or Sioux proper, and of the Christinos or Crees. +Going west with the Mascoutins, he comes to "sedentary" tribes. Are +these the Mandans? He compares this country to Italy. From them he +hears of white men, that he thinks may be Spaniards. This tribe is at +bitter war with Sioux and Crees. At Green Bay he hears of the Sautaux +in war with Crees. His description of buffalo hunts among the Sioux +tallies exactly with the Pembina hunts of a later day. Oldmixon says +that it was from Crees and Assiniboines visiting at Green Bay that +Radisson learned of a way overland to the great game country of Hudson +Bay. + +[21] There is a mistake in Radisson's account here, which is easily +checked by contemporaneous accounts of Marie de l'Incarnation and +Dollier de Casson. Radisson describes Dollard's fight during his +fourth trip in 1664, when it is quite plain that he means 1660. The +fight has been so thoroughly described by Mr. Parkman, who drew his +material from the two authorities mentioned, and the _Jesuit Relations_ +that I do not give it in detail. I give a brief account of Radisson's +description of the tragedy. + +[22] It will be noticed that Radisson's account of the battle at the +Long Sault--which I have given in his own words as far as +possible--differs in details from the only other accounts written by +contemporaries; namely, Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, the +Abbé Belmont, and the Jesuits. All these must have written from +hearsay, for they were at Quebec and Montreal. Radisson was on the +spot a week after the tragedy; so that his account may be supposed to +be as accurate as any. + +[23] Mr. Benjamin Sulte states that the explorers wintered on Green +Bay, 1658-1659, then visited the tribes between Milwaukee and the river +Wisconsin in the spring of 1659. Here they learn of the Sioux and the +Crees. They push southwest first, where they see the Mississippi +between April and July, 1659. Thence they come back to the Sault. +Then they winter, 1659-1660, among the Sioux. I have not attempted to +give the dates of the itinerary; because it would be a matter of +speculation open to contradiction; but if we accept Radisson's account +at all--and that account is corroborated by writers contemporaneous +with him--we must then accept _his_ account of _where_ he went, and not +the casual guesses of modern writers who have given his journal one +hurried reading, and then sat down, without consulting documents +contemporaneous with Radisson, to inform the world of _where_ he went. +Because this is such a very sore point with two or three western +historical societies, I beg to state the reasons why I have set down +Radisson's itinerary as much farther west than has been generally +believed, though how far west he went does not efface the main and +essential fact _that Radisson was the true discoverer of the Great +Northwest_. For that, let us give him a belated credit and not obscure +the feat by disputes. (1) The term "Forked River" referred to the +Missouri and Mississippi, not the Wisconsin and Mississippi. (2) No +other rivers in that region are to be compared to the Ottawa and St. +Lawrence but the Missouri and Mississippi. (3) The Mascoutins, or +People of the Fire, among whom Radisson found himself when he descended +the Wisconsin from Green Bay, conducted him westward only as far as the +tribes allied to them, the Mascoutins of the Missouri or Nebraska. +Hence, Radisson going west-north-west to the Sioux--as he says he +did--must have skirted much farther west than Wisconsin and Minnesota. +(4) His descriptions of the Indians who knew tribes in trade with the +Spaniards must refer to the Indians south of the Big Bend of the +Missouri. (5) His description of the climate refers to the same +region. (6) The _Jesuit Relations_ confirm beyond all doubt that he +was among the main body of the great Sioux Confederacy. (7) Both his +and the Jesuit reference is to the treeless prairie, which does not +apply to the wooded lake regions of eastern Minnesota or northern +Wisconsin. + +To me, it is simply astounding--and that is putting it mildly--that any +one pretending to have read _Radisson's Journal_ can accuse him of +"claiming" to have "descended to the salt sea" (Gulf of Mexico). +Radisson makes no such claim; and to accuse him of such is like +building a straw enemy for the sake of knocking him down, or stirring +up muddy waters to make them look deep. The exact words of Radisson's +narrative are: "We went into ye great river that divides itself in 2, +where the hurrons with some Ottauake . . . had retired. . . . This +nation have warrs against those of the Forked River . . . so called +because it has 1 branches the one towards the west, the other towards +the South, wch. we believe runns towards Mexico, by the tokens they +gave us . . . they told us the prisoners they take tells them that they +have warrs against a nation . . . that have great beards and such +knives as we have" . . . etc., etc., etc. . . . "which made us believe +they were Europeans." This statement is _no_ claim that Radisson went +to Mexico, but only that he met tribes who knew tribes trading with +Spaniards of Mexico. And yet, on the careless reading of this +statement, one historian brands Radisson as a liar for "having claimed +he went to Mexico." The thing would be comical in its impudence if it +were not that many such misrepresentations of what Radisson wrote have +dimmed the glory of his real achievements. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +1661-1664 + +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE + +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy--It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North--When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits--In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight--They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France + + +Radisson was not yet twenty-six years of age, and his explorations of +the Great Northwest had won him both fame and fortune. As Spain sought +gold in the New Word, so France sought precious furs. Furs were the +only possible means of wealth to the French colony, and for ten years +the fur trade had languished owing to the Iroquois wars. For a year +after the migration of the Hurons to Onondaga, not a single beaver skin +was brought to Montreal. Then began the annual visits of the Indians +from the Upper Country to the forts of the St. Lawrence. Sweeping down +the northern rivers like wild-fowl, in far-spread, desultory flocks, +came the Indians of the _Pays d'en Haut_. Down the Ottawa to Montreal, +down the St. Maurice to Three Rivers, down the Saguenay and round to +Quebec, came the treasure-craft,--light fleets of birch canoes laden to +the water-line with beaver skins. Whence came the wealth that revived +the languishing trade of New France? From a vague, far Eldorado +somewhere round a sea in the North. Hudson had discovered this sea +half a century before Radisson's day; Jean Bourdon, a Frenchman, had +coasted up Labrador in 1657 seeking the Bay of the North; and on their +last trip the explorers had learned from the Crees who came through the +dense forests of the hinterland that there lay round this Bay of the +North a vast country with untold wealth of furs. The discovery of a +route overland to the north sea was to become the lodestar of +Radisson's life.[1] + +[Illustration: Montreal in 1760: 1, the St. Lawrence; 20, the Dock; +18-19, Arsenal; 16, the Church; 13-15, the Convent and Hospital; 8-12, +Sally-ports, River Side; 17, Cannon and Wall; 3-4-5, Houses on Island.] + +"We considered whether to reveal what we had learned," explains +Radisson, "for we had _not_ been in the Bay of the North, knowing only +what the Crees told us. We wished to discover it ourselves and have +assurance before revealing anything." But the secret leaked out. +Either Groseillers told his wife, or the Jesuits got wind of the news +from the Indians; for it was announced from Quebec that two priests, +young La Vallière, the son of the governor at Three Rivers, six other +Frenchmen, and some Indians would set out for the Bay of the North up +the Saguenay. Radisson was invited to join the company as a guide. +Needless to say that a man who had already discovered the Great +Northwest and knew the secret of the road to the North, refused to play +a second part among amateur explorers. Radisson promptly declined. +Nevertheless, in May, 1661, the Jesuits, Gabriel Dreuillettes and +Claude Dablon, accompanied by Couture, La Vallière, and three others, +set out with Indian guides for the discovery of Hudson's Bay by land. +On June 1 they began to ascend the Saguenay, pressing through vast +solitudes below the sombre precipices of the river. The rapids were +frequent, the heat was terrific, and the _portages_ arduous. Owing to +the obstinacy of the guides, the French were stopped north of Lake St. +John. Here the priests established a mission, and messengers were sent +to Quebec for instructions. + +Meanwhile, Radisson and Groseillers saw that no time must be lost. If +they would be first in the North, as they had been first in the West, +they must set out at once. Two Indian guides from the Upper Country +chanced to be in Montreal. Groseillers secured them by bringing both +to Three Rivers. Then the explorers formally applied to the French +governor, D'Avaugour, for permission to go on the voyage of discovery. +New France regulated the fur trade by license. Imprisonment, the +galleys for life, even death on a second offence, were the punishments +of those who traded without a license. The governor's answer revealed +the real animus behind his enthusiasm for discovery. He would give the +explorers a license if they would share half the profits of the trip +with him and take along two of his servants as auditors of the returns. +One can imagine the indignation of the dauntless explorers at this +answer. Their cargo of furs the preceding year had saved New France +from bankruptcy. Offering to venture their lives a second time for the +extension of the French domain, they were told they might do so if they +would share half the profits with an avaricious governor. Their answer +was characteristic. Discoverers were greater than governors; still, if +the Indians of the Upper Country invited his Excellency, Radisson and +Groseillers would be glad to have the honor of his company; as for his +servants--men who went on voyages of discovery had to act as both +masters and servants. + +D'Avaugour was furious. He issued orders forbidding the explorers to +leave Three Rivers without his express permission. Radisson and +Groseillers knew the penalties of ignoring this order. They asked the +Jesuits to intercede for them. Though Gareau had been slain trying to +ascend the Ottawa and Father Ménard had by this time preached in the +forests of Lake Michigan, the Jesuits had made no great discoveries in +the Northwest. All they got for their intercessions was a snub.[2] + +While messages were still passing between the governor and the +explorers, there swept down the St. Lawrence to Three Rivers seven +canoes of Indians from the Upper Country, asking for Radisson and +Groseillers. The explorers were honorable to a degree. They notified +the governor of Quebec that they intended to embark with the Indians. +D'Avaugour stubbornly ordered the Indians to await the return of his +party from the Saguenay. The Indians made off to hide in the rushes of +Lake St. Peter. The sympathy of Three Rivers was with the explorers. +Late one night in August Radisson and Groseillers--who was captain of +the soldiers and carried the keys of the fort--slipped out from the +gates, with a third Frenchman called Larivière. As they stepped into +their canoe, the sentry demanded, "Who goes?" "Groseillers," came the +answer through the dark. "God give you a good voyage, sir," called the +sentry, faithful to his captain rather than the governor. + +The skiff pushed out on the lapping tide. A bend in the river--and the +lights of the fort glimmering in long lines across the water had +vanished behind. The prow of Radisson's boat was once more heading +upstream for the Unknown. Paddling with all swiftness through the +dark, the three Frenchmen had come to the rushes of Lake St. Peter +before daybreak. No Indians could be found. Men of softer mettle +might have turned back. Not so Radisson. "We were well-armed and had +a good boat," he relates, "so we resolved to paddle day and night to +overtake the Indians." At the west end of the lake they came up with +the north-bound canoes. For three days and nights they pushed on +without rest. Naturally, Radisson did not pause to report progress at +Montreal. Game was so plentiful in the surrounding forests that +Iroquois hunters were always abroad in the regions of the St. Lawrence +and Ottawa.[3] Once they heard guns. Turning a bend in the river, +they discovered five Iroquois boats, just in time to avoid them. That +night the Frenchman, Larivière, dreamed that he had been captured by +the Mohawks, and he shouted out in such terror that the alarmed Indians +rushed to embark. The next day they again came on the trail of +Iroquois. The frightened Indians from the Upper Country shouldered +their canoes and dashed through the woods. Larivière could not keep up +and was afraid to go back from the river lest he should lose his +bearings. Fighting his way over windfall and rock, he sank exhausted +and fell asleep. Far ahead of the Iroquois boats the Upper Country +Indians came together again. The Frenchman was nowhere to be found. +It was dark. The Indians would not wait to search. Radisson and +Groseillers dared not turn back to face the irate governor. Larivière +was abandoned. Two weeks afterwards some French hunters found him +lying on the rocks almost dead from starvation. He was sent back to +Three Rivers, where D'Avaugour had him imprisoned. This outrage the +inhabitants of Three Rivers resented. They forced the jail and rescued +Larivière. + +Three days after the loss of Larivière Radisson and Groseillers caught +up with seven more canoes of Indians from the Upper Country. The union +of the two bands was just in time, for the next day they were set upon +at a _portage_ by the Iroquois. Ordering the Indians to encase +themselves in bucklers of matting and buffalo hide, Radisson led the +assault on the Iroquois barricade. Trees were cut down, and the Upper +Indians rushed the rude fort with timbers extemporized into +battering-rams. In close range of the enemy, Radisson made a curious +discovery. Frenchmen were directing the Iroquois warriors. Who had +sent these French to intercept the explorers? If Radisson suspected +treachery on the part of jealous rivals from Quebec, it must have +redoubled his fury; for the Indians from the Upper Country threw +themselves in the breached barricade with such force that the Iroquois +lost heart and tossed belts of wampum over the stockades to supplicate +peace. It was almost night. Radisson's Indians drew off to consider +the terms of peace. When morning came, behold an empty fort! The +French renegades had fled with their Indian allies. + +[Illustration: Château St. Louis, Quebec, 1669, from one of the oldest +prints in existence.] + +Glad to be rid of the first hindrance, the explorers once more sped +north. In the afternoon, Radisson's scouts ran full tilt into a band +of Iroquois laden with beaver pelts. The Iroquois were smarting from +their defeat of the previous night; and what was Radisson's amusement +to see his own scouts and the Iroquois running from each other in equal +fright, while the ground between lay strewn with booty! Radisson +rushed his Indians for the waterside to intercept the Iroquois' flight. +The Iroquois left their boats and swam for the opposite shore, where +they threw up the usual barricade and entrenched themselves to shoot on +Radisson's passing canoes. Using the captured beaver pelts as shields, +the Upper Indians ran the gantlet of the Iroquois fire with the loss of +only one man. + +The slightest defeat may turn well-ordered retreat into panic. If the +explorers went on, the Iroquois would hang to the rear of the +travelling Indians and pick off warriors till the Upper Country people +became so weakened they would fall an easy prey. Not flight, but +fight, was Radisson's motto. He ordered his men ashore to break up the +barricade. Darkness fell over the forest. The Iroquois could not see +to fire. "They spared not their powder," relates Radisson, "but they +made more noise than hurt." Attaching a fuse to a barrel of powder, +Radisson threw this over into the Iroquois fort. The crash of the +explosion was followed by a blaze of the Iroquois musketry that killed +three of Radisson's men. Radisson then tore the bark off a birch tree, +filled the bole with powder, and in the darkness crept close to the +Iroquois barricade and set fire to the logs. Red tongues of fire +leaped up, there was a roar as of wind, and the Iroquois fort was on +fire. Radisson's men dashed through the fire, hatchet in hand. The +Iroquois answered with their death chant. Friend and foe merged in the +smoke and darkness. "We could not know one another in that skirmish of +blows," says Radisson. "There was noise to terrify the stoutest man." +In the midst of the mêlée a frightful storm of thunder and sheeted rain +rolled over the forest. "To my mind," writes the disgusted Radisson, +"that was something extraordinary. I think the Devil himself sent that +storm to let those wretches escape, so that they might destroy more +innocents." The rain put out the fire. As soon as the storm had +passed, Radisson kindled torches to search for the missing. Three of +his men were slain, seven wounded. Of the enemy, eleven lay dead, five +were prisoners. The rest of the Iroquois had fled to the forest. The +Upper Indians burned their prisoners according to their custom, and the +night was passed in mad orgies to celebrate the victory. "The sleep we +took did not make our heads giddy," writes Radisson. + +The next day they encountered more Iroquois. Both sides at once began +building forts; but when he could, Radisson always avoided war. Having +gained victory enough to hold the Iroquois in check, he wanted no +massacre. That night he embarked his men noiselessly; and never once +stopping to kindle camp-fire, they paddled from Friday night to Tuesday +morning. The _portages _over rocks in the dark cut the _voyageurs'_ +moccasins to shreds. Every landing was marked with the blood of +bruised feet. Sometimes they avoided leaving any trace of themselves +by walking in the stream, dragging their boats along the edge of the +rapids. By Tuesday the Indians were so fagged that they could go no +farther without rest. Canoes were moored in the hiding of the rushes +till the _voyageurs_ slept. They had been twenty-two days going from +Three Rivers to Lake Nipissing, and had not slept one hour on land. + +It was October when they came to Lake Superior. The forests were +painted in all the glory of autumn, and game abounded. White fish +appeared under the clear, still waters of the lake like shoals of +floating metal; bears were seen hulking away from the watering places +of sandy shores; and wild geese whistled overhead. After the terrible +dangers of the voyage, with scant sleep and scanter fare, the country +seemed, as Radisson says, a terrestrial paradise. The Indians gave +solemn thanks to their gods of earth and forest, "and we," writes +Radisson, "to the God of gods." Indian summer lay on the land. +November found the explorers coasting the south shore of Lake Superior. +They passed the Island of Michilimackinac with its stone arches. +Radisson heard from the Indians of the copper mines. He saw the +pictured rocks that were to become famous for beauty. "I gave it the +name of St. Peter because that was my name and I was the first +Christian to see it," he writes of the stone arch. "There were in +these places very deep caves, caused by the violence of the waves." +Jesuits had been on the part of Lake Superior near the Sault, and poor +Ménard perished in the forests of Lake Michigan; but Radisson and +Groseillers were the first white men to cruise from south to west and +west to north, where a chain of lakes and waterways leads from the +Minnesota lake country to the prairies now known as Manitoba. Before +the end of November the explorers rounded the western end of Lake +Superior and proceeded northwest. Radisson records that they came to +great winter encampments of the Crees; and the Crees did not venture +east for fear of Sautaux and Iroquois. He mentions a river of +Sturgeons, where was a great store of fish. + +The Crees wished to conduct the two white men to the wooded lake +region, northwest towards the land of the Assiniboines, where Indian +families took refuge on islands from those tigers of the plains--the +Sioux--who were invincible on horseback but less skilful in canoes. +The rivers were beginning to freeze. Boats were abandoned; but there +was no snow for snow-shoe travelling, and the explorers were unable to +transport the goods brought for trade. Bidding the Crees go to their +families and bring back slaves to carry the baggage, Radisson and +Groseillers built themselves the first fort and the first fur post +between the Missouri and the North Pole. It was evidently somewhere +west of Duluth in either what is now Minnesota or northwestern Ontario. + + +This fur post was the first habitation of civilization in all the Great +Northwest. Not the railway, not the cattle trail, not the path of +forward-marching empire purposely hewing a way through the wilderness, +opened the West. It was the fur trade that found the West. It was the +fur trade that explored the West. It was the fur trade that wrested +the West from savagery. The beginning was in the little fort built by +Radisson and Groseillers. No great factor in human progress ever had a +more insignificant beginning. + +The fort was rushed up by two men almost starving for food. It was on +the side of a river, built in the shape of a triangle, with the base at +the water side. The walls were of unbarked logs, the roof of thatched +branches interlaced, with the door at the river side. In the middle of +the earth floor, so that the smoke would curl up where the branches +formed a funnel or chimney, was the fire. On the right of the fire, +two hewn logs overlaid with pine boughs made a bed. On the left, +another hewn log acted as a table. Jumbled everywhere, hanging from +branches and knobs of branches, were the firearms, clothing, and +merchandise of the two fur traders. Naturally, a fort two thousand +miles from help needed sentries. Radisson had not forgotten his +boyhood days of Onondaga. He strung carefully concealed cords through +the grass and branches around the fort. To these bells were fastened, +and the bells were the sentries. The two white men could now sleep +soundly without fear of approach. This fort, from which sprang the +buoyant, aggressive, prosperous, free life of the Great Northwest, was +founded and built and completed in two days. + +The West had begun.[4] + +It was a beginning which every Western pioneer was to repeat for the +next two hundred years: first, the log cabins; then, the fight with the +wilderness for food. + +Radisson, being the younger, went into the woods to hunt, while +Groseillers kept house. Wild geese and ducks were whistling south, but +"the whistling that I made," writes Radisson, "was another music than +theirs; for I killed three and scared the rest." Strange Indians came +through the forest, but were not admitted to the tiny fort, lest +knowledge of the traders' weakness should tempt theft. Many a night +the explorers were roused by a sudden ringing of the bells or crashing +through the underbrush, to find that wild animals had been attracted by +the smell of meat, and wolverine or wildcat was attempting to tear +through the matted branches of the thatched roof. The desire for +firearms has tempted Indians to murder many a trader; so Radisson and +Groseillers _cached_ all the supplies that they did not need in a hole +across the river. News of the two white men alone in the northern +forest spread like wild-fire to the different Sautaux and Ojibway +encampments; and Radisson invented another protection in addition to +the bells. He rolled gunpowder in twisted tubes of birch bark, and ran +a circle of this round the fort. Putting a torch to the birch, he +surprised the Indians by displaying to them a circle of fire running +along the ground in a series of jumps. To the Indians it was magic. +The two white men were engirt with a mystery that defended them from +all harm. Thus white men passed their first winter in the Great +Northwest. + +Toward winter four hundred Crees came to escort the explorers to the +wooded lake region yet farther west towards the land of the +Assiniboines, the modern Manitoba. "We were Caesars," writes Radisson. +"There was no one to contradict us. We went away free from any burden, +while those poor miserables thought themselves happy to carry our +equipage in the hope of getting a brass ring, or an awl, or a +needle. . . . They admired our actions more than the fools of Paris +their king. . . .[5] They made a great noise, calling us gods and +devils. We marched four days through the woods. The country was +beautiful with clear parks. At last we came within a league of the +Cree cabins, where we spent the night that we might enter the +encampment with pomp the next day. The swiftest Indians ran ahead to +warn the people of our coming." Embarking in boats, where the water +was open, the two explorers came to the Cree lodges. They were +welcomed with shouts. Messengers marched in front, scattering presents +from the white men,--kettles to call all to a feast of friendship; +knives to encourage the warriors to be brave; swords to signify that +the white men would fight all enemies of the Cree; and abundance of +trinkets--needles and awls and combs and tin mirrors--for the women. +The Indians prostrated themselves as slaves; and the explorers were +conducted to a grand council of welcome. A feast was held, followed by +a symbolic dance in celebration of the white men's presence. + +Their entry to the Great Northwest had been a triumph: but they could +not escape the privations of the explorer's life. Winter set in with a +severity to make up for the long, late autumn. Snow fell continuously +till day and night were as one, the sombre forests muffled to silence +with the wild creatures driven for shelter to secret haunts. Four +hundred men had brought the explorers north. Allowing an average of +four to each family, there must have been sixteen hundred people in the +encampment of Crees. To prevent famine, the Crees scattered to the +winter hunting-grounds, arranging to come together again in two months +at a northern rendezvous. When Radisson and Groseillers came to the +rendezvous, they learned that the gathering hunters had had poor luck. +Food was short. To make matters worse, heavy rains were followed by +sharp frost. The snow became iced over, destroying rabbit and grouse, +which feed the large game. Radisson noticed that the Indians often +snatched food from the hands of hungry children. More starving Crees +continued to come into camp. Soon the husbands were taking the wives' +share of food, and the women were subsisting on dried pelts. The Crees +became too weak to carry their snow-shoes, or to gather wood for fire. +The cries of the dying broke the deathly stillness of the winter +forest; and the strong began to dog the footsteps of the weak. "Good +God, have mercy on these innocent people," writes Radisson; "have mercy +on us who acknowledge Thee!" Digging through the snow with their +rackets, some of the Crees got roots to eat. Others tore the bark from +trees and made a kind of soup that kept them alive. Two weeks after +the famine set in, the Indians were boiling the pulverized bones of the +waste heap. After that the only food was the buckskin that had been +tanned for clothing. "We ate it so eagerly," writes Radisson, "that +our gums did bleed. . . . We became the image of death." Before the +spring five hundred Crees had died of famine. Radisson and Groseillers +scarcely had strength to drag the dead from the tepees. The Indians +thought that Groseillers had been fed by some fiend, for his heavy, +black beard covered his thin face. Radisson they loved, because his +beardless face looked as gaunt as theirs.[6] + +Relief came with the breaking of the weather. The rain washed the iced +snows away; deer began to roam; and with the opening of the rivers came +two messengers from the Sioux to invite Radisson and Groseillers to +visit their nation. The two Sioux had a dog, which they refused to +sell for all Radisson's gifts. The Crees dared not offend the Sioux +ambassadors by stealing the worthless cur on which such hungry eyes +were cast, but at night Radisson slipped up to the Sioux tepee. The +dog came prowling out. Radisson stabbed it so suddenly that it dropped +without a sound. Hurrying back, he boiled and fed the meat to the +famishing Crees. When the Sioux returned to their own country, they +sent a score of slaves with food for the starving encampment. No doubt +Radisson had plied the first messengers with gifts; for the slaves +brought word that thirty picked runners from the Sioux were coming to +escort the white men to the prairie. To receive their benefactors, and +also, perhaps, to show that they were not defenceless, the Crees at +once constructed a fort; for Cree and Sioux had been enemies from time +immemorial. In two days came the runners, clad only in short garments, +and carrying bow and quiver. The Crees led the young braves to the +fort. Kettles were set out. Fagged from the long run, the Sioux ate +without a word. At the end of the meal one rose. Shooting an arrow +into the air as a sign that he called Deity to witness the truth of his +words, he proclaimed in a loud voice that the elders of the Sioux +nation would arrive next day at the fort to make a treaty with the +French. + +The news was no proof of generosity. The Sioux were the great warriors +of the West. They knew very well that whoever formed an alliance with +the French would obtain firearms; and firearms meant victory against +all other tribes. The news set the Crees by the ears. Warriors +hastened from the forests to defend the fort. The next day came the +elders of the Sioux in pomp. They were preceded by the young braves +bearing bows and arrows and buffalo-skin shields on which were drawn +figures portraying victories. Their hair was turned up in a stiff +crest surmounted by eagle feathers, and their bodies were painted +bright vermilion. Behind came the elders, with medicine-bags of +rattlesnake skin streaming from their shoulders and long strings of +bears' claws hanging from neck and wrist. They were dressed in +buckskin, garnished with porcupine quills, and wore moccasins of +buffalo hide, with the hair dangling from the heel. In the belt of +each was a skull-cracker--a sort of sling stone with a long handle--and +a war-hatchet. Each elder carried a peace pipe set with precious +stones, and stuck in the stem were the quills of the war eagle to +represent enemies slain. Women slaves followed, loaded with skins for +the elders' tents. + +[Illustration: A parley on the Plains.] + +A great fire had been kindled inside the court of the Cree stockades. +Round the pavilion the Sioux elders seated themselves. First, they +solemnly smoked the calumet of peace. Then the chief of the Sioux rose +and chanted a song, giving thanks for their safe journey. Setting +aside gifts of rare beaver pelts, he declared that the Sioux had come +to make friends with the French, who were masters of peace and war; +that the elders would conduct the white men back to the Sioux country; +that the mountains were levelled and the valleys cast up, and the way +made smooth, and branches strewn on the ground for the white men's +feet, and streams bridged, and the doors of the tepees open. Let the +French come to the Sioux! The Indians would die for the French. A +gift was presented to invoke the friendship of the Crees. Another rich +gift of furs let out the secret of the Sioux' anxiety: it was that the +French might give the Sioux "thunder weapons," meaning guns. + +The speech being finished, the Crees set a feast before their guests. +To this feast Radisson and Groseillers came in a style that eclipsed +the Sioux. Cree warriors marched in front, carrying guns. Radisson +and Groseillers were dressed in armor.[7] At their belts they wore +pistol, sword, and dagger. On their heads were crowns of colored +porcupine quills. Two pages carried the dishes and spoons to be used +at the feast; and four Cree magicians followed with smoking calumets in +their hands. Four Indian maids carried bearskins to place on the +ground when the two explorers deigned to sit down. Inside the fort +more than six hundred councillors had assembled. Outside were gathered +a thousand spectators. As Radisson and Groseillers entered, an old +Cree flung a peace pipe at the explorers' feet and sang a song of +thanksgiving to the sun that he had lived to see "those terrible men +whose words (guns) made the earth quake." Stripping himself of his +costly furs, he placed them on the white men's shoulders, shouting: "Ye +are masters over us; dead or alive, dispose of us as you will." + +Then Radisson rose and chanted a song, in which he declared that the +French took the Crees for brethren and would defend them. To prove his +words, he threw powder in the fire and had twelve guns shot off, which +frightened the Sioux almost out of their senses. A slave girl placed a +coal in the calumet. Radisson then presented gifts; the first to +testify that the French adopted the Sioux for friends; the second as a +token that the French also took the Crees for friends; the third as a +sign that the French "would reduce to powder with heavenly fire" any +one who disturbed the peace between these tribes. The fourth gift was +in grateful recognition of the Sioux' courtesy in granting free passage +through their country. The gifts consisted of kettles and hatchets and +awls and needles and looking-glasses and bells and combs and paint, but +_not_ guns. Radisson's speech was received with "Ho, ho's" of +applause. Sports began. Radisson offered prizes for racing, jumping, +shooting with the bow, and climbing a greased post. All the while, +musicians were singing and beating the tom-tom, a drum made of buffalo +hide stretched on hoops and filled with water. + +Fourteen days later Radisson and Groseillers set out for the Sioux +country, or what are now known as the Northwestern states.[8] On the +third voyage Radisson came to the Sioux from the south. On this +voyage, he came to them from the northeast. He found that the tribe +numbered seven thousand men of fighting age. He remarked that the +Sioux used a kind of coke or peat for fire instead of wood. While he +heard of the tribes that used coal for fire, he does not relate that he +went to them on this trip. Again he heard of the mountains far inland, +where the Indians found copper and lead and a kind of stone that was +transparent.[9] He remained six weeks with the Sioux, hunting buffalo +and deer. Between the Missouri and the Saskatchewan ran a well-beaten +trail northeastward, which was used by the Crees and the Sioux in their +wars. It is probable that the Sioux escorted Radisson back to the +Crees by this trail, till he was across what is now the boundary +between Minnesota and Canada, and could strike directly eastward for +the Lake of the Woods region, or the hinterland between James Bay and +Lake Superior. + +In spring the Crees went to the Bay of the North, which Radisson was +seeking; and after leaving the Sioux, the two explorers struck for the +little fort north of Lake Superior, where they had _cached_ their +goods. Spring in the North was later than spring in the South; but the +shore ice of the Northern lakes had already become soft. To save time +they cut across the lakes of Minnesota, dragging their sleighs on the +ice. Groseillers' sleigh was loaded with pelts obtained from the +Sioux, and the elder man began to fag. Radisson took the heavy sleigh, +giving Groseillers the lighter one. About twelve miles out from the +shore, on one of these lakes, the ice suddenly gave, and Radisson +plunged through to his waist. It was as dangerous to turn back as to +go on. If they deserted their merchandise, they would have nothing to +trade with the Indians; but when Radisson succeeded in extricating +himself, he was so badly strained that he could not go forward another +step. There was no sense in risking both their lives on the rotten +ice. He urged Groseillers to go on. Groseillers dared not hesitate. +Laying two sleds as a wind-break on each side of Radisson, he covered +the injured man with robes, consigned him to the keeping of God, and +hurried over the ice to obtain help from the Crees. + +The Crees got Radisson ashore, and there he lay in agony for eight +days. The Indians were preparing to set out for the North. They +invited Radisson to go with them. His sprain had not healed; but he +could not miss the opportunity of approaching the Bay of the North. +For two days he marched with the hunters, enduring torture at every +step. The third day he could go no farther and they deserted him. +Groseillers had gone hunting with another band of Crees. Radisson had +neither gun nor hatchet, and the Indians left him only ten pounds of +pemmican. After a short rest he journeyed painfully on, following the +trail of the marching Crees. On the fifth day he found the frame of a +deserted wigwam. Covering it with branches of trees and kindling a +fire to drive off beasts of prey, he crept in and lay down to sleep. +He was awakened by a crackling of flame. The fire had caught the pine +boughs and the tepee was in a blaze. Radisson flung his snow-shoes and +clothing as far as he could, and broke from the fire-trap. +Half-dressed and lame, shuddering with cold and hunger, he felt through +the dark over the snow for his clothing. A far cry rang through the +forest like the bay of the wolf pack. Radisson kept solitary watch +till morning, when he found that the cry came from Indians sent out to +find him by Groseillers. He was taken to an encampment, where the +Crees were building canoes to go to the Bay of the North. + +The entire band, with the two explorers, then launched on the rivers +flowing north. "We were in danger to perish a thousand times from the +ice jam," writes Radisson. ". . . At last we came full sail from a +deep bay . . . we came to the seaside, where we found an old house all +demolished and battered with bullets. . . . They (the Crees) told us +about Europeans. . . . We went from isle to isle all that +summer. . . . This region had a great store of cows (caribou). . . . +We went farther to see the place that the Indians were to pass the +summer. . . . The river (where they went) came from the lake that +empties itself in . . . the Saguenay . . . a hundred leagues from the +great river of Canada (the St. Lawrence) . . . to where we were in the +Bay of the North. . . . We passed the summer quietly coasting the +seaside. . . . The people here burn not their prisoners, but knock +them on the head. . . . They have a store of turquoise. . . . They +find green stones, very fine, at the same Bay of the Sea +(labradorite). . . . We went up another river to the Upper Lake +(Winnipeg)." [10] + +For years the dispute has been waged with zeal worthy of a better cause +whether Radisson referred to Hudson Bay in this passage. The French +claim that he did; the English that he did not. "The house demolished +with bullets" was probably an old trading post, contend the English; +but there was no trading post except Radisson's west of Lake Superior +at that time, retort the French. By "cows" Radisson meant buffalo, and +no buffalo were found as far east as Hudson Bay, say the English; by +"cows" Radisson meant caribou and deer, and herds of these frequented +the shores of Hudson Bay, answer the French. No river comes from the +Saguenay to Hudson Bay, declare the English; yes, but a river comes +from the direction of the Saguenay, and was followed by subsequent +explorers, assert the French.[11] The stones of turquoise and green +were agates from Lake Superior, explain the English; the stones were +labradorites from the east coast of the Bay, maintain the French. So +the childish quarrel has gone on for two centuries. England and France +alike conspired to crush the man while he lived; and when he died they +quarrelled over the glory of his discoveries. The point is not whether +Radisson actually wet his oars in the different indentations of Hudson +and James bays. The point is that he found where it lay from the Great +Lakes, and discovered the watershed sloping north from the Great Lakes +to Hudson Bay. This was new ground, and entitled Radisson to the fame +of a discoverer. + +From the Indians of the bay, Radisson heard of another lake leagues to +the north, whose upper end was always frozen. This was probably some +vague story of the lakes in the region that was to become known two +centuries later as Mackenzie River. The spring of 1663 found the +explorers back in the Lake of the Woods region accompanied by seven +hundred Indians of the Upper Country. The company filled three hundred +and sixty canoes. Indian girls dived into the lake to push the canoes +off, and stood chanting a song of good-speed till the boats had glided +out of sight through the long, narrow, rocky gaps of the Lake of the +Woods. At Lake Superior the company paused to lay up a supply of +smoked sturgeon. At the Sault four hundred Crees turned back. The +rest of the Indians hoisted blankets on fishing-poles, and, with a west +wind, scudded across Lake Huron to Lake Nipissing. From Lake Nipissing +they rode safely down the Ottawa to Montreal. Cannon were fired to +welcome the discoverers, for New France was again on the verge of +bankruptcy from a beaver famine. + +A different welcome awaited them at Quebec. D'Argenson, the governor, +was about to leave for France, and nothing had come of the Jesuit +expedition up the Saguenay. He had already sent Couture, for a second +time, overland to find a way to Hudson Bay; but no word had come from +Couture, and the governor's time was up. The explorers had disobeyed +him in leaving without his permission. Their return with a fortune of +pelts was the salvation of the impecunious governor. From 1627 to 1663 +five distinct fur companies, organized under the patronage of royalty, +had gone bankrupt in New France.[12] Therefore, it became a loyal +governor to protect his Majesty's interests. Besides, the revenue +collectors could claim one-fourth of all returns in beaver except from +posts farmed expressly for the king. No sooner had Radisson and +Groseillers come home than D'Argenson ordered Groseillers imprisoned. +He then fined the explorers $20,000, to build a fort at Three Rivers, +giving them leave to put their coats-of-arms on the gate; a $30,000 +fine was to go to the public treasury of New France; $70,000 worth of +beaver was seized as the tax due the revenue. Of a cargo worth +$300,000 in modern money, Radisson and Groseillers had less than +$20,000 left.[13] + +Had D'Argenson and his successors encouraged instead of persecuted the +discoverers, France could have claimed all North America but the narrow +strip of New England on the east and the Spanish settlements on the +south. Having repudiated Radisson and Groseillers, France could not +claim the fruits of deeds which she punished.[14] + + +[1] The childish dispute whether Bourdon sailed into the bay and up to +its head, or only to 50 degrees N. latitude, does not concern +Radisson's life, and, therefore, is ignored. One thing I can state +with absolute certainty from having been up the coast of Labrador in a +most inclement season, that Bourdon could not possibly have gone to and +back from the inner waters of Hudson Bay between May 2 and August 11. +J. Edmond Roy and Mr. Sulte both pronounce Bourdon a myth, and his trip +a fabrication. + +[2] "Shame put upon them," says Radisson. Ménard did _not_ go out with +Radisson and Groseillers, as is erroneously recorded. + +[3] I have purposely avoided stating whether Radisson went by way of +Lake Ontario or the Ottawa. Dr. Dionne thinks that he went by Ontario +and Niagara because Radisson refers to vast waterfalls under which a +man could walk. Radisson gives the height of these falls as forty +feet. Niagara are nearer three hundred; and the Chaudière of the +Ottawa would answer Radisson's description better, were it not that he +says a man could go under the falls for a quarter of a mile. "The Lake +of the Castors" plainly points to Lake Nipissing. + +[4] The two main reasons why I think that Radisson and Groseillers were +now moving up that chain of lakes and rivers between Minnesota and +Canada, connecting Lake of the Woods with Lake Winnipeg, are: (1) +Oldmixon says it was the report of the Assiniboine Indians from Lake +Assiniboine (Lake Winnipeg) that led Radisson to seek for the Bay of +the North overland. These Assiniboines did not go to the bay by way of +Lake Superior, but by way of Lake Winnipeg. (2) A mémoire written by +De la Chesnaye in 1696--see _Documents Nouvelle France_, +1492-1712--distinctly refers to a _coureur's_ trail from Lake Superior +to Lake Assiniboine or Lake Winnipeg. There is no record of any +Frenchmen but Radisson and Groseillers having followed such a trail to +the land of the Assiniboines--the Manitoba of to-day--before 1676. + +[5] One can guess that a man who wrote in that spirit two centuries +before the French Revolution would not be a sycophant in +courts,--which, perhaps, helps to explain the conspiracy of silence +that obscured Radisson's fame. + +[6] My reason for thinking that this region was farther north than +Minnesota is the size of the Cree winter camp; but I have refrained +from trying to localize this part of the trip, except to say it was +west and north of Duluth. Some writers recognize in the description +parts of Minnesota, others the hinterland between Lake Superior and +James Bay. In the light of the _mémoire_ of 1696 sent to the French +government, I am unable to regard this itinerary as any other than the +famous fur traders' trail between Lake Superior and Lake Winnipeg by +way of Sturgeon River and the Lake of the Woods. + +[7] _Radisson Relations_, p. 207. + +[8] We are now on safe ground. There was a well-known trail from what +is now known as the Rat Portage region to the great Sioux camps west of +the Mississippi and Red River valleys. But again I refuse to lay +myself open to controversy by trying definitely to give either the +dates or exact places of this trip. + +[9] If any proof is wanted that Radisson's journeyings took him far +west of the Mississippi, these details afford it. + +[10] _Radisson's Journal_, pp. 224, 225, 226. + +[11] Mr. A. P. Low, who has made the most thorough exploration of +Labrador and Hudson Bay of any man living, says, "Rupert River forms +the discharge of the Mistassini lakes . . . and empties into Rupert Bay +close to the mouth of the Nottoway River, and rises in a number of +lakes close to the height of land dividing it from the St. Maurice +River, which joins the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers." + +[12] _Les Compagnies de Colonisation sous l'ancien régime_, by +Chailly-Bert. + +[13] Oldmixon says: "Radisson and Groseillers met with some savages on +the Lake of Assiniboin, and from them they learned that they might go +by land to the bottom of Hudson's Bay, where the English had not been +yet, at James Bay; upon which they desired them to conduct them +thither, and the savages accordingly did it. They returned to the +Upper Lake the same way they came, and thence to Quebec, where they +offered the principal merchants to carry ships to Hudson's Bay; but +their project was rejected." Vol. I, p. 548. Radisson's figures are +given as "pounds "; but by "_L_" did he mean English "pound" or French +livre, that is 17 cents? A franc in 1660 equalled the modern dollar. + +[14] The exact tribes mentioned in the _Mémoire of 1696_, with whom the +French were in trade in the West are: On the "Missoury" and south of +it, the Mascoutins and Sioux; two hundred miles beyond the "Missisipy" +the Issaguy, the Octbatons, the Omtous, of whom were Sioux capable of +mustering four thousand warriors, south of Lake Superior, the Sauteurs, +on "Sipisagny, the river which is the discharge of Lake Asemipigon" +(Winnipeg), the "Nation of the Grand Rat," Algonquins numbering two +thousand, who traded with the English of Hudson Bay, De la Chesnaye +adds in his mémoire details of the trip from Lake Superior to the lake +of the Assiniboines. Knowing what close co-workers he and Radisson +were, we can guess where he got his information. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +1664-1676 + +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS + +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers--Entangled in +Lawsuits, the two French Explorers go to England--The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company--Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue--Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade + + +Henceforth Radisson and Groseillers were men without a country. Twice +their return from the North with cargoes of beaver had saved New France +from ruin. They had discovered more of America than all the other +explorers combined. Their reward was jealous rivalry that reduced them +to beggary; injustice that compelled them to renounce allegiance to two +crowns; obloquy during a lifetime; and oblivion for two centuries after +their death. The very force of unchecked impulse that carries the hero +over all obstacles may also carry him over the bounds of caution and +compromise that regulate the conduct of other men. This was the case +with Radisson and Groseillers. They were powerless to resist the +extortion of the French governor. The Company of One Hundred +Associates had given place to the Company of the West Indies. This +trading venture had been organized under the direct patronage of the +king.[1] It had been proclaimed from the pulpits of France. +Privileges were promised to all who subscribed for the stock. The +Company was granted a blank list of titles to bestow on its patrons and +servants. No one else in New France might engage in the beaver trade; +no one else might buy skins from the Indians and sell the pelts in +Europe; and one-fourth of the trade went for public revenue. In spite +of all the privileges, fur company after fur company failed in New +France; but to them Radisson had to sell his furs, and when the revenue +officers went over the cargo, the minions of the governor also seized a +share under pretence of a fine for trading without a license. + +Groseillers was furious, and sailed for France to demand restitution; +but the intriguing courtiers proved too strong for him. Though he +spent 10,000 pounds, nothing was done. D'Avaugour had come back to +France, and stockholders of the jealous fur company were all-powerful +at court. Groseillers then relinquished all idea of restitution, and +tried to interest merchants in another expedition to Hudson Bay by way +of the sea.[2] He might have spared himself the trouble. His +enthusiasm only aroused the quiet smile of supercilious indifference. +His plans were regarded as chimerical. Finally a merchant of Rochelle +half promised to send a boat to Isle Percée at the mouth of the St. +Lawrence in 1664. Groseillers had already wasted six months. Eager +for action, he hurried back to Three Rivers, where Radisson awaited +him. The two secretly took passage in a fishing schooner to Anticosti, +and from Anticosti went south to Isle Percée. Here a Jesuit just out +from France bore the message to them that no ship would come. The +promise had been a put-off to rid France of the enthusiast. New France +had treated them with injustice. Old France with mockery. Which way +should they turn? They could not go back to Three Rivers. This +attempt to go to Hudson Bay without a license laid them open to a +second fine. Baffled, but not beaten, the explorers did what +ninety-nine men out of a hundred would have done in similar +circumstances--they left the country. Some rumor of their intention to +abandon New France must have gone abroad; for when they reached Cape +Breton, their servants grumbled so loudly that a mob of Frenchmen +threatened to burn the explorers. Dismissing their servants, Radisson +and Groseillers escaped to Port Royal, Nova Scotia. + +[Illustration: Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three +Rivers.] + +In Port Royal they met a sea-captain from Boston, Zechariah Gillam, who +offered his ship for a voyage to Hudson Bay, but the season was far +spent when they set out. Captain Gillam was afraid to enter the +ice-locked bay so late in summer. The boat turned back, and the trip +was a loss. This run of ill-luck had now lasted for a year. They +still had some money from the Northern trips, and they signed a +contract with ship-owners of Boston to take two vessels to Hudson Bay +the following spring. Provisions must be laid up for the long voyage. +One of the ships was sent to the Grand Banks for fish. Rounding +eastward past the crescent reefs of Sable Island, the ship was caught +by the beach-combers and totally wrecked on the drifts of sand. +Instead of sailing for Hudson Bay in the spring of 1665, Radisson and +Groseillers were summoned to Boston to defend themselves in a lawsuit +for the value of the lost vessel. They were acquitted; but lawsuits on +the heels of misfortune exhausted the resources of the adventurers. +The exploits of the two Frenchmen had become the sensation of Boston. +Sir Robert Carr, one of the British commissioners then in the New +England colonies, urged Radisson and Groseillers to renounce allegiance +to a country that had shown only ingratitude, and to come to +England.[3] When Sir George Cartwright sailed from Nantucket on August +1, 1665, he was accompanied by Radisson and Groseillers.[4] Misfortune +continued to dog them. Within a few days' sail of England, their ship +encountered the Dutch cruiser _Caper_. For two hours the ships poured +broadsides of shot into each other's hulls. The masts were torn from +the English vessel. She was boarded and stripped, and the Frenchmen +were thoroughly questioned. Then the captives were all landed in +Spain. Accompanied by the two Frenchmen, Sir George Cartwright +hastened to England early in 1666. The plague had driven the court +from London to Oxford. Cartwright laid the plans of the explorers +before Charles II. The king ordered 40s. a week paid to Radisson and +Groseillers for the winter. They took chambers in London. Later they +followed the court to Windsor, where they were received by King Charles. + +The English court favored the project of trade in Hudson Bay, but +during the Dutch war nothing could be done. The captain of the Dutch +ship _Caper_ had sent word of the French explorers to De Witt, the +great statesman. De Witt despatched a spy from Picardy, France, one +Eli Godefroy Touret, who chanced to know Groseillers, to meet the +explorers in London. Masking as Groseillers' nephew, Touret tried to +bribe both men to join the Dutch. Failing this, he attempted to +undermine their credit with the English by accusing Radisson and +Groseillers of counterfeiting money; but the English court refused to +be deceived, and Touret was imprisoned. Owing to the plague and the +war, two years passed without the vague promises of the English court +taking shape. Montague, the English ambassador to France, heard of the +explorers' feats, and wrote to Prince Rupert. Prince Rupert was a +soldier of fortune, who could enter into the spirit of the explorers. +He had fought on the losing side against Cromwell, and then taken to +the high seas to replenish broken fortunes by piracy. The wealth of +the beaver trade appealed to him. He gave all the influence of his +_prestige_ to the explorers' plans. By the spring of 1668 money enough +had been advanced to fit out two boats for Hudson Bay. In the _Eagle_, +with Captain Stannard, went Radisson; in the _Nonsuch_, with Captain +Zechariah Gillam of Boston, went Groseillers. North of Ireland furious +gales drove the ships apart. Radisson's vessel was damaged and driven +back to London; but his year was not wasted. It is likely that the +account of his first voyages was written while Groseillers was away.[5] +Sometime during his stay in London he married Mary Kirke, a daughter of +the Huguenot John Kirke, whose family had long ago gone from Boston and +captured Quebec. + +Gillam's journal records that the _Nonsuch_ left Gravesend the 3d of +June, 1668, reached Resolution Island on August 4, and came to anchor +at the south of James Bay on September 29.[6] It was here that +Radisson had come overland five years before, when he thought that he +discovered a river flowing from the direction of the St. Lawrence. The +river was Nemisco. Groseillers called it Rupert in honor of his +patron. A palisaded fort was at once built, and named King Charles +after the English monarch. By December, the bay was locked in the +deathly silence of northern frost. Snow fell till the air became +darkened day after day, a ceaseless fall of muffling snow; the +earth--as Gillam's journal says--"seemed frozen to death." Gillam +attended to the fort, Groseillers to the trade. Dual command was bound +to cause a clash. By April, 1669, the terrible cold had relaxed. The +ice swept out of the river with a roar. Wild fowl came winging north +in myriad flocks. By June the fort was sweltering in almost tropical +heat. The _Nonsuch_ hoisted anchor and sailed for England, loaded to +the water-line with a cargo of furs. Honors awaited Groseillers in +London. King Charles created him a _Knight de la Jarretière_, an order +for princes of the royal blood.[7] In addition, he was granted a sum +of money. Prince Rupert and Radisson had, meanwhile, been busy +organizing a fur company. The success of Groseillers' voyage now +assured this company a royal charter, which was granted in May, 1670. +Such was the origin of the Hudson's Bay Company. Prince Rupert was its +first governor; Charles Bayly was appointed resident governor on the +bay. Among the first shareholders were Prince Rupert, the Duke of +York, Sir George Cartwright, the Duke of Albermarle, Shaftesbury, Sir +Peter Colleton, who had advanced Radisson a loan during the long period +of waiting, and Sir John Kirke, whose daughter had married Radisson. + +That spring, Radisson and Groseillers again sailed for the bay. In +1671, three ships were sent out from England, and Radisson established +a second post westward at Moose. With Governor Bayly, he sailed up and +met the Indians at what was to become the great fur capital of the +north, Port Nelson, or York. The third year of the company's +existence, Radisson and Groseillers perceived a change. Not so many +Indians came down to the English forts to trade. Those who came brought +fewer pelts and demanded higher prices. Rivals had been at work. The +English learned that the French had come overland and were paying high +prices to draw the Indians from the bay. In the spring a council was +held.[8] Should they continue on the east side of the bay, or move +west, where there would be no rivalry? Groseillers boldly counselled +moving inland and driving off French competition. Bayly was for moving +west. He even hinted that Groseillers' advice sprang from disloyalty +to the English. The clash that was inevitable from divided command was +this time avoided by compromise. They would all sail west, and all +come back to Rupert's River. When they returned, they found that the +English ensign had been torn down and the French flag raised.[9] A +veteran Jesuit missionary of the Saguenay, Charles Albanel, two French +companions, and some Indian guides had ensconced themselves in the +empty houses.[10] The priest now presented Governor Bayly with letters +from Count Frontenac commending the French to the good offices of +Governor Bayly.[11] + +France had not been idle. + +When it was too late, the country awakened to the injustice done +Radisson and Groseillers. While Radisson was still in Boston, all +restrictions were taken from the beaver trade, except the tax of +one-fourth to the revenue. The Jesuit Dablon, who was near the western +end of Lake Superior, gathered all the information he could from the +Indians of the way to the Sea of the North. Father Marquette learned +of the Mississippi from the Indians. The Western tribes had been +summoned to the Sault, where Sieur de Saint-Lusson met them in treaty +for the French; and the French flag was raised in the presence of Père +Claude Allouez, who blessed the ceremony. M. Colbert sent instructions +to M. Talon, the intendant of New France, to grant titles of nobility +to Groseillers' nephew in order to keep him in the country.[12] On the +Saguenay was a Jesuit, Charles Albanel, loyal to the French and of +English birth, whose devotion to the Indians during the small-pox +scourge of 1670 had given him unbounded influence. Talon, the +intendant of New France, was keen to retrieve in the North what +D'Argenson's injustice had lost. Who could be better qualified to go +overland to Hudson Bay than the old missionary, loyal to France, of +English birth, and beloved by the Indians? Albanel was summoned to +Quebec and gladly accepted the commission. He chose for companions +Saint-Simon and young Couture, the son of the famous guide to the +Jesuits. The company left Quebec on August 6, 1671, and secured a +guide at Tadoussac. Embarking in canoes, they ascended the shadowy +cañon of the Saguenay to Lake St. John. On the 7th of September they +left the forest of Lake St. John and mounted the current of a winding +river, full of cataracts and rapids, toward Mistassini. On this stream +they met Indians who told them that two European vessels were on Hudson +Bay. The Indians showed Albanel tobacco which they had received from +the English. + +It seemed futile to go on a voyage of discovery where English were +already in possession. The priest sent one of the Frenchmen and two +Indians back to Quebec for passports and instructions. What the +instructions were can only be guessed by subsequent developments. The +messengers left the depth of the forest on the 19th of September, and +had returned from Quebec by the 10th of October. Snow was falling. +The streams had frozen, and the Indians had gone into camp for the +winter. Going from wigwam to wigwam through the drifted forest. Father +Albanel passed the winter preaching to the savages. Skins of the chase +were laid on the wigwams. Against the pelts, snow was banked to close +up every chink. Inside, the air was blue with smoke and the steam of +the simmering kettle. Indian hunters lay on the moss floor round the +central fires. Children and dogs crouched heterogeneously against the +sloping tent walls. Squaws plodded through the forest, setting traps +and baiting the fish-lines that hung through airholes of the thick ice. +In these lodges Albanel wintered. He was among strange Indians and +suffered incredible hardships. Where there was room, he, too, sat +crouched under the crowded tent walls, scoffed at by the braves, teased +by the unrebuked children, eating when the squaws threw waste food to +him, going hungry when his French companions failed to bring in game. +Sometimes night overtook him on the trail. Shovelling a bed through +the snow to the moss with his snow-shoes, piling shrubs as a +wind-break, and kindling a roaring fire, the priest passed the night +under the stars. + +When spring came, the Indians opposed his passage down the river. A +council was called. Albanel explained that his message was to bring +the Indians down to Quebec and keep them from going to the English for +trade. The Indians, who had acted as middlemen between Quebec traders +and the Northern tribes, saw the advantage of undermining the English +trade. Gifts were presented by the Frenchmen, and the friendship of +the Indians was secured. On June 1, 1672, sixteen savages embarked +with the three Frenchmen. For the next ten days, the difficulties were +almost insurmountable. The river tore through a deep gorge of sheer +precipices which the _voyageurs_ could pass only by clinging to the +rock walls with hands and feet. One _portage_ was twelve miles long +over a muskeg of quaking moss that floated on water. At every step the +travellers plunged through to their waists. Over this the long canoes +and baggage had to be carried. On the 10th of June they reached the +height of land that divides the waters of Hudson Bay from the St. +Lawrence. The watershed was a small plateau with two lakes, one of +which emptied north, the other, south. As they approached Lake +Mistassini, the Lake Indians again opposed their free passage down the +rivers. + +"You must wait," they said, "till we notify the elders of your coming." +Shortly afterwards, the French met a score of canoes with the Indians +all painted for war. The idea of turning back never occurred to the +priest. By way of demonstrating his joy at meeting the warriors, he +had ten volleys of musketry fired off, which converted the war into a +council of peace. At the assemblage, Albanel distributed gifts to the +savages. + +"Stop trading with the English at the sea," he cried; "they do not pray +to God; come to Lake St. John with your furs; there you will always +find a _robe noire_ to instruct you and baptize you." + +The treaty was celebrated by a festival and a dance. In the morning, +after solemn religious services, the French embarked. On the 18th of +June they came to Lake Mistassini, an enormous body of water similar to +the Great Lakes.[13] From Mistassini, the course was down-stream and +easier. High water enabled them to run many of the rapids; and on the +28th of June, after a voyage of eight hundred leagues, four hundred +rapids, and two hundred waterfalls, they came to the deserted houses of +the English. The very next day they found the Indians and held +religious services, making solemn treaty, presenting presents, and +hoisting the French flag. For the first three weeks of July they +coasted along the shores of James Bay, taking possession of the country +in the name of the French king. Then they cruised back to King Charles +Fort on Rupert's River.[14] They were just in time to meet the +returned Englishmen. + +Governor Bayly of the Hudson's Bay Company was astounded to find the +French at Rupert's River. Now he knew what had allured the Indians +from the bay, but he hardly relished finding foreigners in possession +of his own fort. The situation required delicate tact. Governor Bayly +was a bluff tradesman with an insular dislike of Frenchmen and +Catholics common in England at a time when bigoted fanaticism ran riot. +King Charles was on friendly terms with France. Therefore, the +Jesuit's passport must be respected; so Albanel was received with at +least a show of courtesy. But Bayly was the governor of a fur company; +and the rights of the company must be respected. To make matters +worse, the French voyageurs brought letters to Groseillers and Radisson +from their relatives in Quebec. Bayly, no doubt, wished the Jesuit +guest far enough. Albanel left in a few weeks. Then Bayly's +suspicions blazed out in open accusations that the two French explorers +had been playing a double game and acting against English interests. +In September came the company ship to the fort with Captain Gillam, who +had never agreed with Radisson from the time that they had quarrelled +about going from Port Royal to the straits of Hudson Bay. It has been +said that, at this stage, Radisson and Groseillers, feeling the +prejudice too strong against them, deserted and passed overland through +the forests to Quebec. The records of the Hudson's Bay Company do not +corroborate this report. Bayly in the heat of his wrath sent home +accusations with the returning ship. The ship that came out in 1674 +requested Radisson to go to England and report. This he did, and so +completely refuted the charges of disloyalty that in 1675 the company +voted him 100 pounds a year; but Radisson would not sit quietly in +England on a pension. Owing to hostility toward him among the English +employees of the company, he could not go back to the bay. Meantime he +had wife and family and servants to maintain on 100 pounds a year. If +England had no more need of him, France realized the fact that she had. +Debts were accumulating. Restless as a caged tiger, Radisson found +himself baffled until a message came from the great Colbert of France, +offering to pay all his debts and give him a position in the French +navy. His pardon was signed and proclaimed. In 1676, France granted +him fishing privileges on the island of Anticosti; but the lodestar of +the fur trade still drew him, for that year he was called to Quebec to +meet a company of traders conferring on the price of beaver.[15] In +that meeting assembled, among others, Jolliet, La Salle, Groseillers, +and Radisson--men whose names were to become immortal. + +It was plain that the two adventurers could not long rest.[16] + + +[1] Chailly-Bert. + +[2] The Jesuit expeditions of Dablon and Dreuillettes in 1661 had +failed to reach the bay overland. Cabot had coasted Labrador in 1497; +Captain Davis had gone north of Hudson Bay in 1585-1587; Hudson had +lost his life there in 1610. Sir Thomas Button had explored Baffin's +Land, Nelson River, and the Button Islands in 1612; Munck, the Dane, +had found the mouth of the Churchill River in 1619, James and Fox had +explored the inland sea in 1631; Shapley had brought a ship up from +Boston in 1640; and Bourdon, the Frenchman, had gone up to the straits +in 1656-1657. + +[3] George Carr, writing to Lord Arlington on December 14, 1665, says: +"Hearing some Frenchmen discourse in New England . . . of a great trade +of beaver, and afterward making proof of what they had said, he thought +them the best present he could possibly make his Majesty and persuaded +them to come to England." + +[4] Colonel Richard Nicolls, writing on July 31, 1665, says he +"supposes Col. Geo. Cartwright is now at sea." + +[5] It plainly could not have been written while _en route_ across the +Atlantic with Sir George Cartwright, for it records events after that +time. + +[6] Robson's _Hudson Bay_. + +[7] See Dr. N. E. Dionne, also Marie de l'Incarnation, but Sulte +discredits this granting of a title. + +[8] See Robson's _Hudson Bay_, containing reference to the journal kept +by Gorst, Bayly's secretary, at Rupert Fort. + +[9] See State Papers, Canadian Archives, 1676, January 26, Whitehall: +Memorial of the Hudson Bay Company complaining of Albanel, a Jesuit, +attempting to seduce Radisson and Groseillers from the company's +services; in absence of ships pulling down the British ensign and +tampering with the Indians. + +[10] I am inclined to think that Albanel may not have been aware of the +documents which he carried from Quebec to the traders being practically +an offer to bribe Radisson and Groseillers to desert England. Some +accounts say that Albanel was accompanied by Groseillers' son, but I +find no authority for this. On the other hand, Albanel does not +mention the Englishmen being present. Just as Radisson and +Groseillers, ten years before, had taken possession of the old house +battered with bullets, so Albanel took possession of the deserted huts. +Here is what his account says (Cramoisy edition of the _Relations_): +"Le 28 June à peine avions nous avancé un quart de lieue, que nous +rencontrasmes à main gauche dans un petit ruisseau un heu avec ses +agrez de dix ou dou tonneaux, qui portoit le Pavilion Anglois et la +voile latine; delà à la portée du fusil, nous entrasmes dans deux +maisons desertes . . . nous rencontrasmes deux ou trois cabanes et un +chien abandonné. . . ." His tampering with the Indians was simply the +presentation of gifts to attract them to Quebec. + +[11] See State Papers, Canadian Archives: M. Frontenac, the commander +of French (?) king's troops at Hudson Bay, introduces and recommends +Father Albanel. + +[12] State Papers, Canadian Archives. + +[13] For some years there were sensational reports that Mistassini was +larger than Lake Superior. Mr. Low, of the Canadian Geological Survey, +in a very exhaustive report, shows this is not so. Still, the lake +ranks with the large lakes of America. Mr. Low gives its dimensions as +one hundred miles long and twelve miles wide. + +[14] There is a discrepancy in dates here which I leave savants to +worry out. _Albanel's Relation_ (Cramoisy) is of 1672. Thomas Gorst, +secretary to Governor Bayly, says that the quarrel took place in 1674. +Oldmixon, who wrote from hearsay, says in 1673. Robson, who had access +to Hudson's Bay records, says 1676; and I am inclined to think they all +agree. In a word, Radisson and Groseillers were on bad terms with the +local Hudson's Bay Company governor from the first, and the open +quarrel took place only in 1675. Considering the bigotry of the times, +the quarrel was only natural. Bayly was governor, but he could not +take precedence over Radisson and Groseillers. He was Protestant and +English. They were Catholics and French. Besides, they were really at +the English governor's mercy; for they could not go back to Canada +until publicly pardoned by the French king. + +[15] State Papers, Canadian Archives, October 20, 1676, Quebec: Report +of proceedings regarding the price of beaver . . . by an ordinance, +October 19, 1676, M. Jacques Duchesneau, Intendant, had called a +meeting of the leading fur traders to consult about fixing the price of +beaver. There were present, among others, Robert, Cavelier de la +Salle, . . . Charles le Moyne, . . . two Godefroys of Three +Rivers, . . . Groseillers, . . . Jolliet, . . . Pierre Radisson. + +[16] Mr. Low's geological report on Labrador contains interesting +particulars of the route followed by Father Albanel. He speaks of the +gorge and swamps and difficult _portages_ in precisely the same way as +the priest, though Albanel must have encountered the worst possible +difficulties on the route, for he went down so early in the spring. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +1682-1684 + +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE + +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay--Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company--How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals + + +A clever man may be a dangerous rival. Both France and England +recognized this in Radisson. The Hudson's Bay Company distrusted him +because he was a foreigner. The fur traders of Quebec were jealous. +The Hudson's Bay Company had offered him a pension of 100 pounds a year +to do nothing. France had pardoned his secession to England, paid his +debts, and given him a position in the navy, and when the fleet was +wrecked returning from the campaign against Dutch possessions in the +West Indies, the French king advanced money for Radisson to refit +himself; but France distrusted the explorer because he had an English +wife. All that France and England wanted Radisson to do was to keep +quiet. What the haughty spirit of Radisson would _not_ do for all the +fortunes which two nations could offer to bribe him--was to keep quiet. +He cared more for the game than the winnings; and the game of sitting +still and drawing a pension for doing nothing was altogether too tame +for Radisson. Groseillers gave up the struggle and retired for the +time to his family at Three Rivers. At Quebec, in 1676, Radisson heard +of others everywhere reaping where he had sown. Jolliet and La Salle +were preparing to push the fur trade of New France westward of the +Great Lakes, where Radisson had penetrated twenty years previously. +Fur traders of Quebec, who organized under the name of the Company of +the North, yearly sent their canoes up the Ottawa, St. Maurice, and +Saguenay to the forests south of Hudson Bay, which Radisson had +traversed. On the bay itself the English company were entrenched. +North, northwest, and west, Radisson had been the explorer; but the +reward of his labor had been snatched by other hands. + +[Illustration: "Skin for Skin," Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay +Company.] + +Radisson must have served meritoriously on the fleet, for after the +wreck he was offered the command of a man-of-war; but he asked for a +commission to New France. From this request there arose complications. +His wife's family, the Kirkes, had held claims against New France from +the days when the Kirkes of Boston had captured Quebec. These claims +now amounted to 40,000 pounds. M. Colbert, the great French statesman, +hesitated to give a commission to a man allied by marriage with the +enemies of New France. Radisson at last learned why preferment had +been denied him. It was on account of his wife. Twice Radisson +journeyed to London for Mary Kirke. Those were times of an easy change +in faith. Charles II was playing double with Catholics and +Protestants. The Kirkes were closely attached to the court; and it +was, perhaps, not difficult for the Huguenot wife to abjure +Protestantism and declare herself a convert to the religion of her +husband. But when Radisson proposed taking her back to France, that +was another matter. Sir John Kirke forbade his daughter's departure +till the claims of the Kirke family against New France had been paid. +When Radisson returned without his wife, he was reproached by M. +Colbert for disloyalty. The government refused its patronage to his +plans for the fur trade; but M. Colbert sent him to confer with La +Chesnaye, a prominent fur trader and member of the Council in New +France, who happened to be in Paris at that time. La Chesnaye had been +sent out to Canada to look after the affairs of a Rouen fur-trading +company. Soon he became a commissioner of the West Indies Company; and +when the merchants of Quebec organized the Company of the North, La +Chesnaye became a director. No one knew better than he how bitterly +the monopolists of Quebec would oppose Radisson's plans for a trip to +Hudson Bay; but the prospects were alluring. La Chesnaye was deeply +involved in the fur trade and snatched at the chance of profits to +stave off the bankruptcy that reduced him to beggary a few years later. +In defiance of the rival companies and independent of those with which +he was connected, he offered to furnish ships and share profits with +Radisson and Groseillers for a voyage to Hudson Bay. + +M. Colbert did not give his patronage to the scheme; but he wished +Radisson a God-speed. The Jesuits advanced Radisson money to pay his +passage; and in the fall of 1681, he arrived in Quebec. La Chesnaye +met him, and Groseillers was summoned. The three then went to the +Château Saint-Louis to lay their plans before the governor. Though the +privileges of the West Indies Company had been curtailed, the fur trade +was again regulated by license.[1] Frontenac had granted a license to +the Company of the North for the fur trade of Hudson Bay. He could not +openly favor Radisson; but he winked at the expedition by granting +passports to the explorers, and the three men who were to accompany +him, Jean Baptiste, son of Groseillers, Pierre Allemand, the pilot who +was afterward given a commission to explore the Eskimo country, and +Jean Godefroy, an interpreter.[2] Jean Baptiste, Radisson's nephew, +invested 500 pounds in goods for barter. Others of Three Rivers and +Quebec advanced money, to provision the ship.[3] Ten days after +Radisson's arrival in Quebec, the explorers had left the high fortress +of the St. Lawrence to winter in Acadia. When spring came, they went +with the fishing fleets to Isle Percée, where La Chesnaye was to send +the ships. Radisson's ship, the _St. Pierre_,--named after +himself,--came first, a rickety sloop of fifty tons with a crew of +twelve mutinous, ill-fed men, a cargo of goods for barter, and scant +enough supply of provisions. Groseillers' ship, the _St. Anne_, was +smaller and better built, with a crew of fifteen. The explorers set +sail on the 11th of July. From the first there was trouble with the +crews. Fresh-water _voyageurs_ make bad ocean sailors. Food was +short. The voyage was to be long. It was to unknown waters, famous +for disaster. The sea was boisterous. In the months of June and July, +the North Atlantic is beset with fog and iceberg. The ice sweeps south +in mountainous bergs that have thawed and split before they reach the +temperate zones.[4] On the 30th of July the two ships passed the +Straits of Belle Isle. Fog-banks hung heavy on the blue of the far +watery horizon. Out of the fog, like ghosts in gloom, drifted the +shadowy ice-floes. The coast of Labrador consists of bare, domed, +lonely hills alternated with rock walls rising sheer from the sea as +some giant masonry. Here the rock is buttressed by a sharp angle +knife-edged in a precipice. There, the beetling walls are guarded by +long reefs like the teeth of a saw. Over these reefs, the drifting +tide breaks with multitudinous voices. The French _voyageurs_ had +never known such seafaring. In the wail of the white-foamed reefs, +their superstition heard the shriek of the demons. The explorers had +anchored in one of the sheltered harbors, which the sailors call +"holes-in-the-wall." The crews mutinied. They would go no farther +through ice-drift and fog to an unknown sea. Radisson never waited for +the contagion of fear to work. He ordered anchors up and headed for +open sea. Then he tried to encourage the sailors with promises. They +would not hear him; for the ship's galley was nearly empty of food. +Then Radisson threatened the first mutineer to show rebellion with such +severe punishment as the hard customs of the age permitted. The crew +sulked, biding its time. At that moment the lookout shouted "Sail ho!" + +All hands discerned a ship with a strange sail, such as Dutch and +Spanish pirates carried, bearing down upon them shoreward. The lesser +fear was forgotten in the greater. The _St. Pierre's_ crew crowded +sail. Heading about, the two explorers' ships threaded the rock reefs +like pursued deer. The pirate came on full speed before the wind. +Night fell while Radisson was still hiding among the rocks. +Notwithstanding reefs and high seas, while the pirate ship hove to for +the night, Radisson stole out in the dark and gave his pursuer the +slip. The chase had saved him a mutiny. + +As the vessels drove northward, the ice drifted past like a white world +afloat. When Radisson approached the entrance to Hudson Bay, he met +floes in impenetrable masses. So far the ships had avoided delay by +tacking along the edges of the ice-fields, from lake to lake of ocean +surrounded by ice. Now the ice began to crush together, driven by wind +and tide with furious enough force to snap the two ships like +egg-shells. Radisson watched for a free passage, and, with a wind to +rear, scudded for shelter of a hole-in-the-wall. Here he met the +Eskimo, and provisions were replenished; but the dangers of the +ice-fields had frightened the crews again. In two days Radisson put to +sea to avoid a second mutiny. The wind was landward, driving the ice +back from the straits, and they passed safely into Hudson Bay. The ice +again surrounded them; but it was useless for the men to mutiny. Ice +blocked up all retreat. Jammed among the floes, Groseillers was afraid +to carry sail, and fell behind. Radisson drove ahead, now skirting the +ice-floes, now pounded by breaking icebergs, now crashing into surface +brash or puddled ice to the fore. "We were like to have perished," he +writes, "but God was pleased to preserve us." + +On the 26th of August, six weeks after sailing from Isle Percée, +Radisson rode triumphantly in on the tide to Hayes River, south of +Nelson River, where he had been with the English ships ten years +before. Two weeks later the _Ste. Anne_, with Groseillers, arrived. +The two ships cautiously ascended the river, seeking a harbor. Fifteen +miles from salt water, Radisson anchored. At last he was back in his +native element, the wilderness, where man must set himself to conquer +and take dominion over earth. + +Groseillers was always the trader, Radisson the explorer. Leaving his +brother-in-law to build the fort, Radisson launched a canoe on Hayes +River to explore inland. Young Jean Groseillers accompanied him to +look after the trade with the Indians.[5] For eight days they paddled +up a river that was destined to be the path of countless traders and +pioneers for two centuries, and that may yet be destined to become the +path of a northern commerce. By September the floodtide of Hayes River +had subsided. In a week the _voyageurs_ had travelled probably three +hundred miles, and were within the region of Lake Winnipeg, where the +Cree hunters assemble in October for the winter. Radisson had come to +this region by way of Lake Superior with the Cree hunters twenty years +before, and his visit had become a tradition among the tribes. Beaver +are busy in October gnawing down young saplings for winter food. +Radisson observed chips floating past the canoe. Where there are +beaver, there should be Indians; so the _voyageurs_ paddled on. One +night, as they lay round the camp-fire, with canoes overturned, a deer, +startled from its evening drinking-place, bounded from the thicket. A +sharp whistle--and an Indian ran from the brush of an island opposite +the camp, signalling the white men to head the deer back; but when +Radisson called from the waterside, the savage took fright and dashed +for the woods. + +All that night the _voyageurs_ kept sleepless guard. In the morning +they moved to the island and kindled a signal-fire to call the Indians. +In a little while canoes cautiously skirted the island, and the chief +of the band stood up, bow and arrow in hand. Pointing his arrows to +the deities of north, south, east, and west, he broke the shaft to +splinters, as a signal of peace, and chanted his welcome:-- + + "Ho, young men, be not afraid! + The sun is favorable to us! + Our enemies shall fear us! + This is the man we have wished + Since the days of our fathers!" + + +With a leap, the chief sprang into the water and swam ashore, followed +by all the canoes. Radisson called out to know who was commander. The +chief, with a sign as old and universal as humanity, bowed his head in +servility. Radisson took the Indian by the hand, and, seating him by +the fire, chanted an answer in Cree:-- + + "I know all the earth! + Your friends shall be my friends! + I come to bring you arms to destroy your enemies! + Nor wife nor child shall die of hunger! + For I have brought you merchandise! + Be of good cheer! + I will be thy son! + I have brought thee a father! + He is yonder below building a fort + Where I have two great ships!" [6] + + +The chief kept pace with the profuse compliments by vowing the life of +his tribe in service of the white man. Radisson presented pipes and +tobacco to the Indians. For the chief he reserved a fowling-piece with +powder and shot. White man and Indian then exchanged blankets. +Presents were sent for the absent wives. The savages were so grateful +that they cast all their furs at Radisson's feet, and promised to bring +their hunt to the fort in spring. In Paris and London Radisson had +been harassed by jealousy. In the wilderness he was master of +circumstance; but a surprise awaited him at Groseillers' fort. + +The French habitation--called Fort Bourbon--had been built on the north +shore of Hayes or Ste. Therese River. Directly north, overland, was +another broad river with a gulflike entrance. This was the Nelson. +Between the two rivers ran a narrow neck of swampy, bush-grown land. +The day that Radisson returned to the newly erected fort, there rolled +across the marshes the ominous echo of cannon-firing. Who could the +newcomers be? A week's sail south at the head of the bay were the +English establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company. The season was far +advanced. Had English ships come to winter on Nelson River? Ordering +Jean Groseillers to go back inland to the Indians, Radisson launched +down Hayes River in search of the strange ship. He went to the salt +water, but saw nothing. Upon returning, he found that Jean Groseillers +had come back to the fort with news of more cannonading farther inland. +Radisson rightly guessed that the ship had sailed up Nelson River, +firing cannon as she went to notify Indians for trade. Picking out +three intrepid men, Radisson crossed the marsh by a creek which the +Indian canoes used, to go to Nelson River.[7] Through the brush the +scout spied a white tent on an island. All night the Frenchmen lay in +the woods, watching their rivals and hoping that some workman might +pass close enough to be seized and questioned. At noon, next day, +Radisson's patience was exhausted. He paddled round the island, and +showed himself a cannon-shot distant from the fort. Holding up a pole, +Radisson waved as if he were an Indian afraid to approach closer in +order to trade. The others hallooed a welcome and gabbled out Indian +words from a guide-book. Radisson paddled a length closer. The others +ran eagerly down to the water side away from their cannon. In signal +of friendship, they advanced unarmed. Radisson must have laughed to +see how well his ruse worked. + +"Who are you?" he demanded in plain English, "and what do you want?" +The traders called back that they were Englishmen come for beaver. +Again the crafty Frenchman must have laughed; for he knew very well +that all English ships except those of the Hudson's Bay Company were +prohibited by law from coming here to trade.[8] Though the strange +ship displayed an English ensign, the flag did not show the magical +letters "H. B. C." + +"Whose commission have you?" pursued Radisson. + +"No commission--New Englanders," answered the others. + +"Contrabands," thought Radisson to himself. Then he announced that he +had taken possession of all that country for France, had built a strong +fort, and expected more ships. In a word, he advised the New +Englanders to save themselves by instant flight; but his canoe had +glided nearer. To Radisson's surprise, he discovered that the leader +of the New England poachers was Ben Gillam of Boston, son of Captain +Gillam, the trusted servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had +opposed Radisson and Groseillers on Rupert's River. It looked as if +the contraband might be a venture of the father as well as the son.[9] +Radisson and young Gillam recognized each other with a show of +friendliness, Gillam inviting Radisson to inspect the ship with much +the same motive that the fabled spider invited the fly. Radisson took +tactful precaution for his own liberty by graciously asking that two of +the New England servants go down to the canoe with the three Frenchmen. +No sooner had Radisson gone on the New England ship than young Gillam +ordered cannon fired and English flags run up. Having made that brave +show of strength, the young man proposed that the French and the New +Englanders should divide the traffic between them for the winter. +Radisson diplomatically suggested that such an important proposal be +laid before his colleagues. In leaving, he advised Gillam to keep his +men from wandering beyond the island, lest they suffer wrong at the +hands of the French soldiers. Incidentally, that advice would also +keep the New Englanders from learning how desperately weak the French +really were. Neither leader was in the slightest deceived by the +other; each played for time to take the other unawares, and each knew +the game that was being played. + +[Illustration: Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from Tea +Chests at York Factory, each Coin representing so many Beaver Skins.] + +Instead of returning by the creek that cut athwart the neck of land +between the two rivers, Radisson decided to go down Nelson River to the +bay, round the point, and ascend Hayes River to the French quarters. +Cogitating how to frighten young Gillam out of the country or else to +seize him, Radisson glided down the swift current of Nelson River +toward salt water. He had not gone nine miles from the New Englanders +when he was astounded by the spectacle of a ship breasting with +full-blown sails up the tide of the Nelson directly in front of the +French canoe. The French dashed for the hiding of the brushwood on +shore. From their concealment they saw that the ship was a Hudson's +Bay Company vessel, armed with cannon and commission for lawful trade. +If once the Hudson's Bay Company ship and the New Englanders united, +the English would be strong enough to overpower the French. + +The majority of leaders would have escaped the impending disaster by +taking ingloriously to their heels. Radisson, with that adroit +presence of mind which characterized his entire life, had provided for +his followers' safety by landing them on the south shore, where the +French could flee across the marsh to the ships if pursued. Then his +only thought was how to keep the rivals apart. Instantly he had an +enormous bonfire kindled. Then he posted his followers in ambush. The +ship mistook the fire for an Indian signal, reefed its sails, and +anchored. Usually natives paddled out to the traders' ships to barter. +These Indians kept in hiding. The ship waited for them to come; and +Radisson waited for the ship's hands to land. In the morning a gig +boat was lowered to row ashore. In it were Captain Gillam, Radisson's +personal enemy, John Bridgar,[10] the new governor of the Hudson's Bay +Company for Nelson River, and six sailors. All were heavily armed, yet +Radisson stood alone to receive them, with his three companions posted +on the outskirts of the woods as if in command of ambushed forces. +Fortune is said to favor the dauntless, and just as the boat came +within gunshot of the shore, it ran aground. A sailor jumped out to +drag the craft up the bank. They were all at Radisson's mercy--without +cover. He at once levelled his gun with a shout of "Halt!" At the +same moment his own men made as if to sally from the woods. The +English imagined themselves ambushed, and called out that they were the +officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. Radisson declared who he was and +that he had taken possession of the country for France. His musket was +still levelled. His men were ready to dash forward. The English put +their heads together and decided that discretion was the better part of +valor. Governor Bridgar meekly requested permission to land and salute +the commander of the French. Then followed a pompous melodrama of +bravado, each side affecting sham strength. Radisson told the English +all that he had told the New Englanders, going on board the Company's +ship to dine, while English hostages remained with his French +followers. For reasons which he did not reveal, he strongly advised +Governor Bridgar not to go farther up Nelson River. Above all, he +warned Captain Gillam not to permit the English sailors to wander +inland. Having exchanged compliments, Radisson took gracious leave of +his hosts, and with his three men slipped down the Nelson in their +canoe. Past a bend in the river, he ordered the canoe ashore. The +French then skirted back through the woods and lay watching the English +till satisfied that the Hudson's Bay Company ship would go no nearer +the island where Ben Gillam lay hidden. + +Groseillers and his son looked after the trade that winter. Radisson +had his hands full keeping the two English crews apart. Ten days after +his return, he again left Hayes River to see what his rivals were +doing. The Hudson's Bay Company ship had gone aground in the ooze a +mile from the fort where Governor Bridgar had taken up quarters. That +division of forces weakened the English fort. Introducing his man as +captain of a French ship, Radisson entered the governor's house. The +visitors drained a health to their host and fired off muskets to learn +whether sentinels were on guard. No attention was paid to the unwonted +noise. "I judged," writes Radisson, "that they were careless, and +might easily be surprised." He then went across to the river flats, +where the tide had left the vessel, and, calmly mounting the ladder, +took a survey of Gillam's ship. When the irate old captain rushed up +to know the meaning of the intrusion Radisson suavely proffered +provisions, of which they were plainly in need. + +The New Englanders had been more industrious. A stoutly palisaded fort +had been completed on young Gillam's island, and cannon commanded all +approach. Radisson fired a musket to notify the sentry, and took care +to beach his canoe below the range of the guns. Young Gillam showed a +less civil front than before. His lieutenant ironically congratulated +Radisson on his "safe" return, and invited him to visit the fort if he +would enter _alone_. When Radisson would have introduced his four +followers, the lieutenant swore "if the four French were forty devils, +they could not take the New Englanders' fort." The safety of the +French habitation now hung by a hair. Everything depended on keeping +the two English companies apart, and they were distant only nine miles. +The scheme must have flashed on Radisson in an intuition; for he laid +his plans as he listened to the boastings of the New Englanders. If +father and son could be brought together through Radisson's favor, +Captain Gillam would keep the English from coming to the New England +fort lest his son should be seized for poaching on the trade of the +Company; and Ben Gillam would keep his men from going near the English +fort lest Governor Bridgar should learn of the contraband ship from +Boston. Incidentally, both sides would be prevented from knowing the +weakness of the French at Fort Bourbon. At once Radisson told young +Gillam of his father's presence. Ben was eager to see his father and, +as he thought, secure himself from detection in illegal trade. +Radisson was to return to the old captain with the promised provisions. +He offered to take young Gillam, disguised as a bush-ranger. In +return, he demanded (1) that the New Englanders should not leave their +fort; (2) that they should not betray themselves by discharging cannon; +(3) that they shoot any Hudson's Bay Company people who tried to enter +the New England fort. To young Gillam these terms seemed designed for +his own protection. What they really accomplished was the complete +protection of the French from united attack. Father and son would have +put themselves in Radisson's power. A word of betrayal to Bridgar, the +Hudson's Bay governor, and both the Gillams would be arrested for +illegal trade. Ben Gillam's visit to his father was fraught with all +the danger that Radisson's daring could have desired. A seaman half +suspected the identity of the bush-ranger, and Governor Bridgar wanted +to know how Radisson had returned so soon when the French fort was far +away. "I told him, smiling," writes Radisson, "that I could fly when +there was need to serve my friends." + +Young Gillam had begun to suspect the weakness of the French. When the +two were safely out of the Hudson's Bay Company fort, he offered to go +home part of the way with Radisson. This was to learn where the French +fort lay. Radisson declined the kindly service and deliberately set +out from the New Englanders' island in the wrong direction, coming down +the Nelson past young Gillam's fort at night. The delay of the trick +nearly cost Radisson his life. Fall rains had set in, and the river +was running a mill-race. Great floes of ice from the North were +tossing on the bay at the mouth of the Nelson River in a maelstrom of +tide and wind. In the dark Radisson did not see how swiftly his canoe +had been carried down-stream. Before he knew it his boat shot out of +the river among the tossing ice-floes of the bay. Surrounded by ice in +a wild sea, he could not get back to land. The spray drove over the +canoe till the Frenchman's clothes were stiff with ice. For four hours +they lay jammed in the ice-drift till a sudden upheaval crushed the +canoe to kindling wood and left the men stranded on the ice. Running +from floe to floe, they gained the shore and beat their way for three +days through a raging hurricane of sleet and snow toward the French +habitation. They were on the side of the Hayes opposite the French +fort. Four _voyageurs_ crossed for them, and the little company at +last gained the shelter of a roof. + +Radisson now knew that young Gillam intended to spy upon the French; so +he sent scouts to watch the New Englanders' fort. The scouts reported +that the young captain had sent messengers to obtain additional men +from his father; but the New England soldiers, remembering Radisson's +orders to shoot any one approaching, had levelled muskets to fire at +the reënforcements. The rebuffed men had gone back to Governor Bridgar +with word of a fort and ship only nine miles up Nelson River. Bridgar +thought this was the French establishment, and old Captain Gillam could +not undeceive him. The Hudson's Bay Company governor had sent the two +men back to spy on what he thought was a French fort. At once Radisson +sent out men to capture Bridgar's scouts, who were found half dead with +cold and hunger. The captives reported to Radisson that the English +ship had been totally wrecked in the ice jam. Bridgar's people were +starving. Many traders would have left their rivals to perish. +Radisson supplied them with food for the winter. They were no longer +to be feared; but there was still danger from young Gillam. He had +wished to visit the French fort. Radisson decided to give him an +opportunity. Ben Gillam was escorted down to Hayes River. A month +passed quietly. The young captain had learned that the boasted forces +of the French consisted of less than thirty men. His insolence knew no +bounds. He struck a French servant, called Radisson a pirate, and +gathering up his belongings prepared to go home. Radisson quietly +barred the young man's way. + +"You pitiful dog!" said the Frenchman, coolly. "You poor young fool! +Why do you suppose you were brought to this fort? We brought you here +because it suited us! We keep you here as long as it suits us! We +take you back when it suits us!" + +Ben Gillam was dumfounded to find that he had been trapped, when he had +all the while thought that he was acting the part of a clever spy. He +broke out in a storm of abuse. Radisson remanded the foolish young man +to a French guard. At the mess-room table Radisson addressed his +prisoner:-- + +"Gillam, to-day I set out to capture your fort." + +At the table sat less than thirty men. Young Gillam gave one scornful +glance at the French faces and laughed. + +"If you had a hundred men instead of twenty," he jeered. + +"How many have you, Ben?" + +"Nine; and they'll kill you before you reach the palisades." + +Radisson was not talking of killing. + +"Gillam," he returned imperturbably, "pick out nine of my men, and I +have your fort within forty-eight hours." + +Gillam chose the company, and Radisson took one of the Hudson Bay +captives as a witness. The thing was done as easily as a piece of +farcical comedy. French hostages had been left among the New +Englanders as guarantee of Gillam's safety in Radisson's fort. These +hostages had been instructed to drop, as if by chance, blocks of wood +across the doors of the guard-room and powder house and barracks. Even +these precautions proved unnecessary. Two of Radisson's advance guard, +who were met by the lieutenant of the New England fort, reported that +"Gillam had remained behind." The lieutenant led the two Frenchmen +into the fort. These two kept the gates open for Radisson, who marched +in with his band, unopposed. The keys were delivered and Radisson was +in possession. At midnight the watch-dogs raised an alarm, and the +French sallied out to find that a New Englander had run to the Hudson's +Bay Company for aid, and Governor Bridgar's men were attacking the +ships. All of the assailants fled but four, whom Radisson caught +ransacking the ship's cabin. Radisson now had more captives than he +could guard, so he loaded the Hudson's Bay Company men with provisions +and sent them back to their own starving fort. + +Radisson left the New England fort in charge of his Frenchmen and +returned to the French quarters. Strange news was carried to him +there. Bridgar had forgotten all benefits, waited until Radisson's +back was turned, and, with one last desperate cast of the die to +retrieve all by capturing the New England fort and ship for the fur +company, had marched against young Gillam's island. The French threw +open the gates for the Hudson's Bay governor to enter. Then they +turned the key and told Governor Bridgar that he was a prisoner. Their +_coup_ was a complete triumph for Radisson. Both of his rivals were +prisoners, and the French flag flew undisputed over Port Nelson. + +Spring brought the Indians down to the bay with the winter's hunt. The +sight of threescore Englishmen captured by twenty Frenchmen roused the +war spirit of the young braves. They offered Radisson two hundred +beaver skins to be allowed to massacre the English. Radisson thanked +the savages for their good will, but declined their offer. Floods had +damaged the water-rotted timbers of the two old hulls in which the +explorers voyaged north. It was agreed to return to Quebec in Ben +Gillam's boat. A vessel was constructed on one of the hulls to send +the English prisoners to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south +end of the bay.[11] Young Jean Groseillers was left, with seven men, +to hold the French post till boats came in the following year. On the +27th of July the ships weighed anchor for the homeward voyage. Young +Gillam was given a free passage by way of Quebec. Bridgar was to have +gone with his men to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south of the +bay, but at the last moment a friendly Englishman warned Radisson that +the governor's design was to wait till the large ship had left, head +the bark back for Hayes River, capture the fort, and put the Frenchmen +to the sword. To prevent this Bridgar, too, was carried to Quebec. +Twenty miles out the ship was caught in ice-floes that held her for a +month, and Bridgar again conspired to cut the throats of the Frenchmen. +Henceforth young Gillam and Bridgar were out on parole during the day +and kept under lock at night. + +The same jealousy as of old awaited Radisson at Quebec. The Company of +the North was furious that La Chesnaye had sent ships to Hudson Bay, +which the shareholders considered to be their territory by license.[12] +Farmers of the Revenue beset the ship to seize the cargo, because the +explorers had gone North without a permit. La Chesnaye saved some of +the furs by transshipping them for France before the vessel reached +Quebec. Then followed an interminable lawsuit, that exhausted the +profits of the voyage. La Barre had succeeded Frontenac as governor. +The best friends of La Barre would scarcely deny that his sole ambition +as governor was to amass a fortune from the fur trade of Canada. +Inspired by the jealous Company of the North, he refused to grant +Radisson prize money for the capture of the contraband ship, restored +the vessel to Gillam, and gave him clearance to sail for Boston.[13] +For this La Barre was sharply reprimanded from France; but the +reprimand did not mend the broken fortunes of the two explorers, who +had given their lives for the extension of the French domain.[14] M. +Colbert summoned Radisson and Groseillers to return to France and give +an account of all they had done; but when they arrived in Paris, on +January 15, 1684, they learned that the great statesman had died. Lord +Preston, the English envoy, had lodged such complaints against them for +the defeat of the Englishmen in Hudson Bay, that France hesitated to +extend public recognition of their services. + + +[1] Within ten years so many different regulations were promulgated on +the fur trade that it is almost impossible to keep track of them. In +1673 orders came from Paris forbidding French settlers of New France +from wandering in the woods for longer than twenty-four hours. In 1672 +M. Frontenac forbade the selling of merchandise to _coureurs du bois_, +or the purchase of furs from them. In 1675 a decree of the Council of +State awarded to M. Jean Oudiette one-fourth of all beaver, with the +exclusive right of buying and selling in Canada. In 1676 Frontenac +withdrew from the _Cie Indes Occidentales_ all the rights it had over +Canada and other places. An ordinance of October 1, 1682, forbade all +trade except under license. An ordinance in 1684 ordered all fur +traders trading in Hudson Bay to pay one-fourth to Farmers of the +Revenue. + +[2] It is hard to tell who this Godefroy was. Of all the famous +Godefroys of Three Rivers (according to Abbé Tanguay) there was only +one, Jean Batiste, born 1658, who might have gone with Radisson; but I +hardly think so. The Godefroys descended from the French nobility and +themselves bore titles from the king, but in spite of this, were the +best canoemen of New France, as ready--according to Mr. Sulte--to +_faire la cuisine_ as to command a fort. Radisson's Godefroy evidently +went in the capacity of a servant, for his name is not mentioned in the +official list of promoters. On the other hand, parish records do not +give the date of Jean Batiste Godefroy's death; so that he may have +gone as a servant and died in the North. + +[3] State Papers, 1683, state that Dame Sorel, La Chesnaye, Chaujon, +Gitton, Foret, and others advanced money for the goods. + +[4] In 1898, when up the coast of Labrador, I was told by the +superintendent of a northern whaling station--a man who has received +royal decorations for his scientific research of ocean phenomena--that +he has frequently seen icebergs off Labrador that were nine miles long. + +[5] Jean was born in 1654 and was, therefore, twenty-eight. + +[6] I have written both addresses as the Indians would chant them. To +be sure, they will not scan according to the elephantine grace of the +pedant's iambics; but then, neither will the Indian songs scan, though +I know of nothing more subtly rhythmical. Rhythm is so much a part of +the Indian that it is in his walk, in the intonation of his words, in +the gesture of his hands. I think most Westerners will bear me out in +saying that it is the exquisitely musical intonation of words that +betrays Indian blood to the third and fourth generation. + +[7] See Robson's map. + +[8] State Papers: "The Governor of New England is ordered to seize all +vessels trading in Hudson Bay contrary to charter--" + +[9] _Radisson's Journal_, p. 277. + +[10] Robson gives the commission to this governor. + +[11] Later in Hudson Bay history, when another commander captured the +forts, the prisoners were sold into slavery. Radisson's treatment of +his rivals hardly substantiates all the accusations of rascality +trumped up against him. Just how many prisoners he took in this +_coup_, no two records agree. + +[12] Archives, September 24, 1683: Ordinance of M. de Meulles regarding +the claims of persons interested in the expedition to Hudson Bay, +organized by M. de la Chesnaye, Gitton, Bruneau, Mme. Sorel. . . . In +order to avoid difficulties with the Company of the North, they had +placed a vessel at Isle Percée to receive the furs brought back . . . +and convey them to Holland and Spain. . . . Joachims de Chalons, agent +of the Company of the North, sent a _bateau_ to Percée to defeat the +project. De la Chesnaye, summoned to appear before the intendant, +maintained that the company had no right to this trade, . . . that the +enterprise involved so many risks that he could not consent to divide +the profits, if he had any. The partners having been heard, M. de +Meulles orders that the boats from Hudson Bay be anchored at Quebec. + +[13] Archives, October 25, 1683: M. de la Barre grants Benjamin Gillam +of Boston clearance for the ship _Le Garçon_, now in port at Quebec, +although he had no license from his Britannic Majesty permitting him to +enter Hudson Bay. + +[14] Such foundationless accusations have been written against Radisson +by historians who ought to have known better, about these furs, that I +quote the final orders of the government on the subject: November 5, +1683, M. de la Barre forbids Chalons, agent of La Ferme du Canada, +confiscating the furs brought from Hudson Bay; November 8 M. de la +Chesnaye is to be paid for the furs seized. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +1684-1710 + +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY + +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune--Reëngaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age--his Character + + +Radisson was now near his fiftieth year. He had spent his entire life +exploring the wilds. He had saved New France from bankruptcy with +cargoes of furs that in four years amounted to half a million of modern +money. In ten years he had brought half a million dollars worth of +furs to the English company.[1] Yet he was a poor man, threatened with +the sponging-house by clamorous creditors and in the power of +avaricious statesmen, who used him as a tool for their own schemes. La +Chesnaye had saved his furs; but the half of the cargo that was the +share of Radisson and Groseillers had been seized at Quebec.[2] On +arriving in France, Groseillers presented a memorial of their wrong to +the court.[3] Probably because England and France were allied by +treaty at that time, the petition for redress was ignored. Groseillers +was now an old man. He left the struggle to Radisson and retired to +spend his days in quietness.[4] Radisson did not cease to press his +claim for the return of confiscated furs. He had a wife and four +children to support; but, in spite of all his services to England and +France, he did not own a shilling's worth of property in the whole +world. From January to May he waited for the tardy justice of the +French court. When his suit became too urgent, he was told that he had +offended the Most Christian King by attacking the fur posts under the +protection of a friendly monarch, King Charles. The hollowness of that +excuse became apparent when the French government sanctioned the +fitting out of two vessels for Radisson to go to Hudson Bay in the +spring. Lord Preston, the English ambassador, was also playing a +double game. He never ceased to reproach the French for the +destruction of the fur posts on Hudson Bay. At the same time he +besieged Radisson with offers to return to the service of the Hudson's +Bay Company. + +Radisson was deadly tired of the farce. From first to last France had +treated him with the blackest injustice. If he had wished to be rich, +he could long ago have accumulated wealth by casting in his lot with +the dishonest rulers of Quebec. In England a strong clique, headed by +Bridgar, Gillam, and Bering opposed him; but King Charles and the Duke +of York, Prince Rupert, when he was alive, Sir William Young, Sir James +Hayes, and Sir John Kirke were in his favor. His heart yearned for his +wife and children. Just then letters came from England urging him to +return to the Hudson's Bay Company. Lord Preston plied the explorer +with fair promises. Under threat of punishment for molesting the +English of Hudson Bay, the French government tried to force him into a +contract to sail on a second voyage to the North on the same terms as +in 1682-1683--not to share the profits. England and France were both +playing double. Radisson smiled a grim smile and took his resolution. +Daily he conferred with the French Marine on details of the voyage. He +permitted the date of sailing to be set for April 24. Sailors were +enlisted, stores put on board, everything was in readiness. At the +last moment, Radisson asked leave of absence to say good-by to his +family. The request was granted. Without losing a moment, he sailed +for England, where he arrived on the 10th of May and was at once taken +in hand by Sir William Young and Sir James Hayes. He was honored as +his explorations entitled him to be. King Charles and the Duke of York +received him. Both royal brothers gave him gifts in token of +appreciation. He took the oath of fealty and cast in his lot with the +English for good. It was characteristic of the enthusiast that he was, +when Radisson did not sign a strictly business contract with the +Hudson's Bay Company. "I accepted their commission with the greatest +pleasure in the world," he writes; ". . . without any precautions on my +part for my own interests . . . since they had confidence in me, I +wished to be generous towards them . . . in the hope they would render +me all the justice due from gentlemen of honor and probity." + +But to the troubles of the future Radisson always paid small heed. +Glad to be off once more to the adventurous freedom of the wilds, he +set sail from England on May 17, 1684, in the _Happy Return_, +accompanied by two other vessels. No incident marked the voyage till +the ships had passed through the straits and were driven apart by the +ice-drift of the bay. About sixty miles out from Port Nelson, the +_Happy Return_ was held back by ice. Fearing trouble between young +Jean Groseillers' men and the English of the other ships, Radisson +embarked in a shallop with seven men in order to arrive at Hayes River +before the other boats came. Rowing with might and main for +forty-eight hours, they came to the site of the French fort. + +The fort had been removed. Jean Groseillers had his own troubles +during Radisson's absence. A few days after Radisson's departure in +July, 1683, cannon announced the arrival of the annual English ships on +Nelson River. Jean at once sent out scouts, who found a tribe of +Indians on the way home from trading with the ships that had fired the +cannon. The scouts brought the Indians back to the French fort. Young +Groseillers admitted the savages only one at a time; but the cunning +braves pretended to run back for things they had forgotten in the +French house. Suspecting nothing, Jean had permitted his own men to +leave the fort. On different pretexts, a dozen warriors had surrounded +the young trader. Suddenly the mask was thrown off. Springing up, +treacherous as a tiger cat, the chief of the band struck at Groseillers +with a dagger. Jean parried the blow, grabbed the redskin by his +collar of bears' claws strung on thongs, threw the assassin to the +ground almost strangling him, and with one foot on the villain's throat +and the sword point at his chest, demanded of the Indians what they +meant. The savages would have fled, but French soldiers who had heard +the noise dashed to Groseillers' aid. The Indians threw down their +weapons and confessed all: the Englishmen of the ship had promised the +band a barrel of powder to massacre the French. Jean took his foot +from the Indian's throat and kicked him out of the fort. The English +outnumbered the French; so Jean removed his fort farther from the bay, +among the Indians, where the English could not follow. To keep the +warriors about him, he offered to house and feed them for the winter. +This protected him from the attacks of the English. In the spring +Indians came to the French with pelts. Jean was short of firearms; so +he bribed the Indians to trade their peltries to the English for guns, +and to retrade the guns to him for other goods. It was a stroke worthy +of Radisson himself, and saved the little French fort. The English +must have suspected the young trader's straits, for they again paid +warriors to attack the French; but Jean had forestalled assault by +forming an alliance with the Assiniboines, who came down Hayes River +from Lake Winnipeg four hundred strong, and encamped a body-guard +around the fort. Affairs were at this stage when Radisson arrived with +news that he had transferred his services to the English. + +Young Groseillers was amazed.[5] Letters to his mother show that he +surrendered his charge with a very ill grace. "Do not forget," +Radisson urged him, "the injuries that France has inflicted on your +father." Young Groseillers' mother, Marguerite Hayet, was in want at +Three Rivers.[6] It was memory of her that now turned the scales with +the young man. He would turn over the furs to Radisson for the English +Company, if Radisson would take care of the far-away mother at Three +Rivers. The bargain was made, and the two embraced. The surrender of +the French furs to the English Company has been represented as +Radisson's crowning treachery. Under that odium the great discoverer's +name has rested for nearly three centuries; yet the accusation of theft +is without a grain of truth. Radisson and Groseillers were to obtain +half the proceeds of the voyage in 1682-1683. Neither the explorers +nor Jean Groseillers, who had privately invested 500 pounds in the +venture, ever received one sou. The furs at Port Nelson--or Fort +Bourbon--belonged to the Frenchmen, to do what they pleased with them. +The act of the enthusiast is often tainted with folly. That Radisson +turned over twenty thousand beaver pelts to the English, without the +slightest assurance that he would be given adequate return, was surely +folly; but it was not theft. + +The transfer of all possessions to the English was promptly made. +Radisson then arranged a peace treaty between the Indians and the +English. That peace treaty has endured between the Indians and the +Hudson's Bay Company to this day. A new fort was built, the furs +stored in the hold of the vessels, and the crews mustered for the +return voyage. Radisson had been given a solemn promise by the +Hudson's Bay Company that Jean Groseillers and his comrades should be +well treated and reëngaged for the English at 100 pounds a year. Now +he learned that the English intended to ship all the French out of +Hudson Bay and to keep them out. The enthusiast had played his game +with more zeal than discretion. The English had what they wanted--furs +and fort. In return, Radisson had what had misled him like a +will-o'-the-wisp all his life--vague promises. In vain Radisson +protested that he had given his promise to the French before they +surrendered the fort. The English distrusted foreigners. The +Frenchmen had been mustered on the ships to receive last instructions. +They were told that they were to be taken to England. No chance was +given them to escape. Some of the French had gone inland with the +Indians. Of Jean's colony, these alone remained. When Radisson +realized the conspiracy, he advised his fellow-countrymen to make no +resistance; for he feared that some of the English bitter against him +might seize on the pretext of a scuffle to murder the French. His +advice proved wise. He had strong friends at the English court, and +atonement was made for the breach of faith to the French. + +The ships set sail on the 4th of September and arrived in England on +the 23d of October. Without waiting for the coach, Radisson hired a +horse and spurred to London in order to give his version first of the +quarrel on the bay. The Hudson's Bay Company was delighted with the +success of Radisson. He was taken before the directors, given a +present of a hundred guineas, and thanked for his services. He was +once more presented to the King and the Duke of York. The company +redeemed its promise to Radisson by employing the Frenchmen of the +surrendered fort and offering to engage young Groseillers at 100 pounds +a year.[7] + +[Illustration: Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower +Fort Garry, Red River. (Courtesy of C. C. Chipman, Commissioner H. B. +Company.)] + +For five years the English kept faith with Radisson, and he made annual +voyages to the bay; but war broke out with France. New France entered +on a brilliant campaign against the English of Hudson Bay. The +company's profits fell. Radisson, the Frenchman, was distrusted. +France had set a price on his head, and one Martinière went to Port +Nelson to seize him, but was unable to cope with the English. At no +time did Radisson's salary with the company exceed 100 pounds; and now, +when war stopped dividends on the small amount of stock which had been +given to him, he fell into poverty and debt. In 1692 Sir William Young +petitioned the company in his favor; but a man with a price on his head +for treason could plainly not return to France.[8] The French were in +possession of the bay. Radisson could do no harm to the English. +Therefore the company ignored him till he sued them and received +payment in full for arrears of salary and dividends on stock which he +was not permitted to sell; but 50 pounds a year would not support a man +who paid half that amount for rent, and had a wife, four children, and +servants to support. In 1700 Radisson applied for the position of +warehouse keeper for the company at London. Even this was denied. + +The dauntless pathfinder was growing old; and the old cannot fight and +lose and begin again as Radisson had done all his life. State Papers +of Paris contain records of a Radisson with Tonty at Detroit![9] Was +this his nephew, François Radisson's son, who took the name of the +explorer, or Radisson's own son, or the game old warrior himself, come +out to die on the frontier as he had lived? + +History is silent. Until the year 1710 Radisson drew his allowance of +50 pounds a year from the English Company, then the payments stopped. +Did the dauntless life stop too? Oblivion hides all record of his +death, as it obscured the brilliant achievements of his life. + + +There is no need to point out Radisson's faults. They are written on +his life without extenuation or excuse, so that all may read. There is +less need to eulogize his virtues. They declare themselves in every +act of his life. This, only, should be remembered. Like all +enthusiasts, Radisson could not have been a hero, if he had not been a +bit of a fool. If he had not had his faults, if he had not been as +impulsive, as daring, as reckless, as inconstant, as improvident of the +morrow, as a savage or a child, he would not have accomplished the +exploration of half a continent. Men who weigh consequences are not of +the stuff to win empires. Had Radisson haggled as to the means, he +would have missed or muddled the end. He went ahead; and when the way +did not open, he went round, or crawled over, or carved his way through. + +There was an old saying among retired hunters of Three Rivers that "one +learned more in the woods than was ever found in l' petee +cat-ee-cheesm." Radisson's training was of the woods, rather than the +curé's catechism; yet who that has been trained to the strictest code +may boast of as dauntless faults and noble virtues? He was not +faithful to any country, but he was faithful to his wife and children; +and he was "faithful to his highest hope,"--that of becoming a +discoverer,--which is more than common mortals are to their meanest +aspirations. When statesmen played him a double game, he paid them +back in their own coin with compound interest. Perhaps that is why +they hated him so heartily and blackened his memory. But amid all the +mad license of savage life, Radisson remained untainted. Other +explorers and statesmen, too, have left a trail of blood to perpetuate +their memory; Radisson never once spilled human blood needlessly, and +was beloved by the savages. + +Memorial tablets commemorate other discoverers. Radisson needs none. +The Great Northwest is his monument for all time. + + +[1] Radisson's petition to the Hudson's Bay Company gives these amounts. + +[2] See State Papers quoted in Chapter VI. I need scarcely add that +Radisson did not steal a march on his patrons by secretly shipping furs +to Europe. This is only another of the innumerable slanders against +Radisson which State Papers disprove. + +[3] It seems impossible that historians with the slightest regard for +truth should have branded this part of _Radisson's Relation_ as a +fabrication, too. Yet such is the case, and of writers whose books are +supposed to be reputable. Since parts of Radisson's life appeared in +the magazines, among many letters I received one from a well-known +historian which to put it mildly was furious at the acceptance of +_Radisson's Journal_ as authentic. In reply, I asked that historian +how many documents contemporaneous with Radisson's life he had +consulted before he branded so great an explorer as Radisson as a liar. +Needless to say, that question was not answered. In corroboration of +this part of Radisson's life, I have lying before me: (1) Chouart's +letters--see Appendix. (2) A letter of Frontenac recording Radisson's +first trip by boat for De la Chesnaye and the complications it would be +likely to cause. (3) A complete official account sent from Quebec to +France of Radisson's doings in the bay, which tallies in every respect +with _Radisson's Journal_. (4) Report of M. de Meulles to the Minister +on the whole affair with the English and New Englanders. (5) An +official report on the release of Gillam's boat at Quebec. (6) The +memorial presented by Groseillers to the French minister. (7) An +official statement of the first discovery of the bay overland. (8) A +complete statement (official) of the complications created by +Radisson's wife being English. (9) A statement through a third +party--presumably an official--by Radisson himself of these +complications dated 1683. (10) A letter from the king to the governor +at Quebec retailing the English complaints of Radisson at Nelson River. + +In the face of this, what is to be said of the historian who calls +Radisson's adventures "a fabrication"? Such misrepresentation betrays +about equal amounts of impudence and ignorance. + +[4] From Charlevoix to modern writers mention is made of the death of +these two explorers. Different names are given as the places where +they died. This is all pure supposition. Therefore I do not quote. +No records exist to prove where Radisson and Groseillers died. + +[5] See Appendix. + +[6] State Papers record payment of money to her because she was in want. + +[7] Dr. George Bryce, who is really the only scholar who has tried to +unravel the mystery of Radisson's last days, supplies new facts about +his dealings with the Company to 1710. + +[8] Marquis de Denonville ordered the arrest of Radisson wherever he +might be found. + +[9] Appendix; see State Papers. + + + + +PART II + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA: BEING AN + ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ROCKY + MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE + VALLEY OF THE SASKATCHEWAN + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +1730-1750 + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA[1] + +M. de la Vérendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent--Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers--His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies--The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty + + +I + +1731-1736 + +A curious paradox is that the men who have done the most for North +America did not intend to do so. They set out on the far quest of a +crack-brained idealist's dream. They pulled up at a foreshortened +purpose; but the unaccomplished aim did more for humanity than the +idealist's dream. + +Columbus set out to find Asia. He discovered America. Jacques Cartier +sought a mythical passage to the Orient. He found a northern empire. +La Salle thought to reach China. He succeeded only in exploring the +valley of the Mississippi, but the new continent so explored has done +more for humanity than Asia from time immemorial. Of all crack-brained +dreams that led to far-reaching results, none was wilder than the +search for the Western Sea. Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle had +followed the trail that Radisson had blazed and explored the valley of +the Mississippi; but like a will-o'-the-wisp beckoning ever westward +was that undiscovered myth, the Western Sea, thought to lie like a +narrow strait between America and Japan. + +The search began in earnest one sweltering afternoon on June 8, 1731, +at the little stockaded fort on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where +Montreal stands to-day. Fifty grizzled adventurers--wood runners, +voyageurs, Indian interpreters--bareheaded, except for the colored +handkerchief binding back the lank hair, dressed in fringed buckskin, +and chattering with the exuberant nonchalance of boys out of school, +had finished gumming the splits of their ninety-foot birch canoes, and +now stood in line awaiting the coming of their captain, Sieur Pierre +Gaultier de Varennes de la Vérendrye. The French soldier with his +three sons, aged respectively eighteen, seventeen, and sixteen, now +essayed to discover the fabled Western Sea, whose narrow waters were +supposed to be between the valley of the "Great Forked River" and the +Empire of China. + +[Illustration: Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight.] + +Certainly, if it were worth while for Peter the Great of Russia to send +Vitus Bering coasting the bleak headlands of ice-blocked, misty shores +to find the Western Sea, it would--as one of the French governors +reported--"be nobler than open war" for the little colony of New France +to discover this "sea of the setting sun." The quest was invested with +all the rainbow tints of "_la gloire_"; but the rainbow hopes were +founded on the practical basis of profits. Leading merchants of +Montreal had advanced goods for trade with the Indians on the way to +the Western Sea. Their expectations of profits were probably the same +as the man's who buys a mining share for ten cents and looks for +dividends of several thousand per cent. And the fur trade at that time +was capable of yielding such profits. Traders had gone West with less +than $2000 worth of goods in modern money, and returned three years +later with a sheer profit of a quarter of a million. Hope of such +returns added zest to De la Vérendrye's venture for the discovery of +the Western Sea. + +Goods done up in packets of a hundred pounds lay at the feet of the +_voyageurs_ awaiting De la Vérendrye's command. A dozen soldiers in +the plumed hats, slashed buskins, the brightly colored doublets of the +period, joined the motley company. Priests came out to bless the +departing _voyageurs_. Chapel bells rang out their God-speed. To the +booming of cannon, and at a word from De la Vérendrye, the gates +opened. Falling in line with measured tread, the soldiers marched out +from Mount Royal. Behind, in the ambling gait of the moccasined +woodsman, came the _voyageurs_ and _coureurs_ and interpreters, +pack-straps across their foreheads, packets on the bent backs, the long +birch canoes hoisted to the shoulders of four men, two abreast at each +end, heads hidden in the inverted keel. + +The path led between the white fret of Lachine Rapids and the dense +forests that shrouded the base of Mount Royal. Checkerboard squares of +farm patches had been cleared in the woods. La Salle's old +thatch-roofed seigniory lay not far back from the water. St. Anne's +was the launching place for fleets of canoes that were to ascend the +Ottawa. Here, a last look was taken of splits and seams in the birch +keels. With invocations of St. Anne in one breath, and invocations of +a personage not mentioned in the curé's "petee cat-ee-cheesm" in the +next breath, and imprecations that their "souls might be smashed on the +end of a picket fence,"--the _voyageur's_ common oath even to this +day,--the boatmen stored goods fore, aft, and athwart till each long +canoe sank to the gunwale as it was gently pushed out on the water. A +last sign of the cross, and the lithe figures leap light as a mountain +cat to their place in the canoes. There are four benches of paddlers, +two abreast, with bowman and steersman, to each canoe. One can guess +that the explorer and his sons and his nephew, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, +who was to be second in command, all unhatted as they heard the long +last farewell of the bells. Every eye is fastened on the chief +bowman's steel-shod pole, held high--there is silence but for the +bells--the bowman's pole is lowered--as with one stroke out sweep the +paddles in a poetry of motion. The chimes die away over the water, the +chapel spire gleams--it, too, is gone. Some one strikes up a plaintive +ditty,--the _voyageur's_ song of the lost lady and the faded roses, or +the dying farewell of Cadieux, the hunter, to his comrades,--and the +adventurers are launched for the Western Sea. + +[Illustration: Fight at the Foot-hills of the Rockies between Crows and +Snakes.] + + +II + +1731-1736 + +Every mile westward was consecrated by heroism. There was the place +where Cadieux, the white hunter, went ashore single-handed to hold the +Iroquois at bay, while his comrades escaped by running the rapids; but +Cadieux was assailed by a subtler foe than the Iroquois, _la folie des +bois_,--the folly of the woods,--that sends the hunter wandering in +endless circles till he dies from hunger; and when his companions +returned, Cadieux lay in eternal sleep with a death chant scribbled on +bark across his breast. There were the Rapids of the Long Sault where +Dollard and seventeen Frenchmen fought seven hundred Iroquois till +every white man fell. Not one of all De la Vérendrye's fifty followers +but knew that perils as great awaited him. + +Streaked foam told the voyageurs where they were approaching rapids. +Alert as a hawk, the bowman stroked for the shore; and his stroke was +answered by all paddles. If the water were high enough to carry the +canoes above rocks, and the rapids were not too violent, several of the +boatmen leaped out to knees in water, and "tracked" the canoes up +stream; but this was unusual with loaded craft. The bowman steadied +the beached keel. Each man landed with pack on his back, lighted his +pipe, and trotted away over portages so dank and slippery that only a +moccasined foot could gain hold. On long portages, camp-fires were +kindled and the kettles slung on the crotched sticks for the evening +meal. At night, the voyageurs slept under the overturned canoes, or +lay on the sand with bare faces to the sky. Morning mist had not risen +till all the boats were once more breasting the flood of the Ottawa. +For a month the canoe prows met the current when a portage lifted the +fleet out of the Ottawa into a shallow stream flowing toward Lake +Nipissing, and from Lake Nipissing to Lake Huron. The change was a +welcome relief. The canoes now rode with the current; and when a wind +sprang up astern, blanket sails were hoisted that let the boatmen lie +back, paddles athwart. Going with the stream, the _voyageurs_ would +"run"--"_sauter les rapides_"--the safest of the cataracts. Bowman, +not steersman, was the pilot of such "runs." A faint, far swish as of +night wind, little forward leaps and swirls of the current, the blur of +trees on either bank, were signs to the bowman. He rose in his +place. A thrust of the steel-shod pole at a rock in mid-stream--the +rock raced past; a throb of the keel to the live waters below--the +bowman crouches back, lightening the prow just as a rider "lifts" his +horse to the leap; a sudden splash--the thing has happened--the canoe +has run the rapids or shot the falls. + +[Illustration: "Each man landed with pack on his back, and trotted +away over portages."] + +Pause was made at Lake Huron for favorable weather; and a rear wind +would carry the canoes at a bouncing pace clear across to +Michilimackinac, at the mouth of Lake Michigan. This was the chief fur +post of the lakes at that time. All the boats bound east or west, +Sioux and Cree and Iroquois and Fox, traders' and priests' and +outlaws'--stopped at Michilimackinac. Vice and brandy and religion +were the characteristics of the fort. + +[Illustration: A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands.] + +This was familiar ground to De la Vérendrye. It was at the lonely fur +post of Nepigon, north of Michilimackinac, in the midst of a wilderness +forest, that he had eaten his heart out with baffled ambition from 1728 +to 1730, when he descended to Montreal to lay before M. de Beauharnois, +the governor, plans for the discovery of the Western Sea. Born at +Three Rivers in 1686, where the passion for discovery and Radisson's +fame were in the very air and traders from the wilderness of the Upper +Country wintered, young Pierre Gaultier de Varennes de la Vérendrye, at +the ambitious age of fourteen, determined that he would become a +discoverer.[2] At eighteen he was fighting in New England, at nineteen +in Newfoundland, at twenty-three in Europe at the battle of Malplaquet, +where he was carried off the field with nine wounds. Eager for more +distinguished service, he returned to Canada in his twenty-seventh +year, only to find himself relegated to an obscure trading post in far +Northern wilds. Then the boyhood ambitions reawakened. All France and +Canada, too, were ringing with projects for the discovery of the +Western Sea. Russia was acting. France knew it. The great priest +Charlevoix had been sent to Canada to investigate plans for the +venture, and had recommended an advance westward through the country of +the Sioux; but the Sioux[3] swarmed round the little fort at Lake Pepin +on the Mississippi like angry wasps. That way, exploration was plainly +barred. Nothing came of the attempt except a brisk fur trade and a +brisker warfare on the part of the Sioux. At the lonely post of +Nepigon, vague Indian tales came to De la Vérendrye of "a great river +flowing west" and "a vast, flat country devoid of timber" with "large +herds of cattle." Ochagach, an old Indian, drew maps on birch bark +showing rivers that emptied into the Western Sea. De la Vérendrye's +smouldering ambitions kindled. He hurried to Michilimackinac. There +the traders and Indians told the same story. Glory seemed suddenly +within De la Vérendrye's grasp. Carried away with the passion for +discovery that ruled his age, he took passage in the canoes bound for +Quebec. The Marquis Charles de Beauharnois had become governor. His +brother Claude had taken part in the exploration of the Mississippi. +The governor favored the project of the Western Sea. Perhaps Russia's +activity gave edge to the governor's zest; but he promised De la +Vérendrye the court's patronage and prestige. This was not money. +France would not advance the enthusiast one sou, but granted him a +monopoly of the fur trade in the countries which he might discover. +The winter of 1731-1732 was spent by De la Vérendrye as the guest of +the governor at Château St. Louis, arranging with merchants to furnish +goods for trade; and on May 19 the agreement was signed. By a lucky +coincidence, the same winter that M. de la Vérendrye had come down to +Quebec, there had arrived from the Mississippi fort, his nephew, +Christopher Dufrost, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, who had commanded the Sioux +post and been prisoner among the Indians. So M. de la Vérendrye chose +Jemmeraie for lieutenant. + +And now the explorer was back at Michilimackinac, on the way to the +accomplishment of the daring ambition of his life. The trip from +Montreal had fatigued the _voyageurs_. Brandy flowed at the lake post +freely as at a modern mining camp. The explorer kept military +discipline over his men. They received no pay which could be +squandered away on liquor. Discontent grew rife. Taking Father +Messaiger, the Jesuit, as chaplain, M. de la Vérendrye ordered his +grumbling _voyageurs_ to their canoes, and, passing through the Straits +of the Sault, headed his fleet once more for the Western Sea. Other +explorers had preceded him on this part of the route. The Jesuits had +coasted the north shore of Lake Superior. So had Radisson. In 1688 De +Noyon of Three Rivers had gone as far west as the Lake of the Woods +towards what is now Minnesota and Manitoba; and in 1717 De Lanoue had +built a fur post at Kaministiquia, near what is now Fort William on +Lake Superior. The shore was always perilous to the boatman of frail +craft. The harbors were fathoms deep, and the waves thrashed by a +cross wind often proved as dangerous as the high sea. It took M. de la +Vérendrye's canoemen a month to coast from the Straits of Mackinaw to +Kaministiquia, which they reached on the 26th of August, seventy-eight +days after they had left Montreal. The same distance is now traversed +in two days. + +Prospects were not encouraging. The crews were sulky. Kaministiquia +was the outermost post in the West. Within a month, the early Northern +winter would set in. One hunter can scramble for his winter's food +where fifty will certainly starve; and the Indians could not be +expected back from the chase with supplies of furs and food till +spring. The canoemen had received no pay. Free as woodland denizens, +they chafed under military command. Boats were always setting out at +this season for the homeland hamlets of the St. Lawrence; and perhaps +other hunters told De la Vérendrye's men that this Western Sea was a +will-o'-the-wisp that would lead for leagues and leagues over strange +lands, through hostile tribes, to a lonely death in the wilderness. +When the explorer ordered his men once more in line to launch for the +Western Sea, there was outright mutiny. Soldiers and boatmen refused +to go on. The Jesuit Messaiger threatened and expostulated with the +men. Jemmeraie, who had been among the Sioux, interceded with the +_voyageurs_. A compromise was effected. Half the boatmen would go +ahead with Jemmeraie if M. de la Vérendrye would remain with the other +half at Lake Superior as a rear guard for retreat and the supply of +provisions. So the explorer suffered his first check in the advance to +the Western Sea. + + +III + +1732-1736 + +Equipping four canoes, Lieutenant de la Jemmeraie and young Jean +Ba'tiste de la Vérendrye set out with thirty men from Kaministiquia, +_portaged_ through dense forests over moss and dank rock past the high +cataract of the falls, and launched westward to prepare a fort for the +reception of their leader in spring. Before winter had closed +navigation, Fort St. Pierre--named in honor of the explorer--had been +erected on the left bank or Minnesota side of Rainy Lake, and the two +young men not only succeeded in holding their mutinous followers, but +drove a thriving trade in furs with the Crees. Perhaps the furs were +obtained at too great cost, for ammunition and firearms were the price +paid, but the same mistake has been made at a later day for a lesser +object than the discovery of the Western Sea. The spring of 1732 saw +the young men back at Lake Superior, going post-haste to +Michilimackinac to exchange furs for the goods from Montreal. + +On the 8th of June, exactly a year from the day that he had left +Montreal, M. de la Vérendrye pushed forward with all his people for +Fort St. Pierre. Five weeks later he was welcomed inside the +stockades. Uniformed soldiers were a wonder to the awe-struck Crees, +who hung round the gateway with hands over their hushed lips. Gifts of +ammunition won the loyalty of the chiefs. Not to be lacking in +generosity, the Indians collected fifty of their gaudiest canoes and +offered to escort the explorer west to the Lake of the Woods. De la +Vérendrye could not miss such an offer. Though his _voyageurs_ were +fatigued, he set out at once. He had reached Fort St. Pierre on July +14. In August his entire fleet glided over the Lake of the Woods. The +threescore canoes manned by the Cree boatmen threaded the shadowy +defiles and labyrinthine channels of the Lake of the Woods--or Lake of +the Isles--coasting island after island along the south or Minnesota +shore westward to the opening of the river at the northwest angle. +This was the border of the Sioux territory. Before the boatmen opened +the channel of an unknown river. Around them were sheltered harbors, +good hunting, and good fishing. The Crees favored this region for +winter camping ground because they could hide their families from the +Sioux on the sheltered islands of the wooded lake. Night frosts had +painted the forests red. The flacker of wild-fowl overhead, the skim +of ice forming on the lake, the poignant sting of the north wind--all +fore-warned winter's approach. Jean de la Vérendrye had not come up +with the supplies from Michilimackinac. The explorer did not tempt +mutiny by going farther. He ordered a halt and began building a fort +that was to be the centre of operations between Montreal and the +unfound Western Sea. The fort was named St. Charles in honor of +Beauharnois. It was defended by four rows of thick palisades fifteen +feet high. In the middle of the enclosure stood the living quarters, +log cabins with thatched roofs. + +[Illustration: A Group of Cree Indians.] + +By October the Indians had scattered to their hunting-grounds like +leaves to the wind. The ice thickened. By November the islands were +ice-locked and snow had drifted waist-high through the forests. The +_voyageurs_ could still fish through ice holes for food; but where was +young Jean who was to bring up provisions from Michilimackinac? The +commander did not voice his fears; and his men were too deep in the +wilds for desertion. One afternoon, a shout sounded from the silent +woods, and out from the white-edged evergreens stepped a figure on +snowshoes--Jean de la Vérendrye, leading his boatmen, with the +provisions packed on their backs, from a point fifty miles away where +the ice had caught the canoes. If the supplies had not come, the +explorer could neither have advanced nor retreated in spring. It was a +risk that De la Vérendrye did not intend to have repeated. Suspecting +that his merchant partners were dissatisfied, he sent Jemmeraie down to +Montreal in 1733 to report and urge the necessity for prompt forwarding +of all supplies. With Jemmeraie went the Jesuit Messaiger; but their +combined explanations failed to satisfy the merchants of Montreal. De +la Vérendrye had now been away three years. True, he had constructed +two fur posts and sent East two cargoes of furs. His partners were +looking for enormous wealth. Disappointed and caring nothing for the +Western Sea; perhaps, too, secretly accusing De la Vérendrye of making +profits privately, as many a gentleman of fortune did,--the merchants +decided to advance provisions only in proportion to earnings. What +would become of the fifty men in the Northern wilderness the partners +neither asked nor cared. + +Young Jean had meanwhile pushed on and built Fort Maurepas on Lake +Winnipeg; but his father dared not leave Fort St. Charles without +supplies. De la Vérendrye's position was now desperate. He was +hopelessly in debt to his men for wages. That did not help discipline. +His partners were not only withholding supplies, but charging up a high +rate of interest on the first equipment. To turn back meant ruin. To +go forward he was powerless. Leaving Jemmeraie in command, and +permitting his eager son to go ahead with a few picked men to Fort +Maurepas on Lake Winnipeg, De la Vérendrye took a small canoe and +descended with all swiftness to Quebec. The winter of 1634-1635 was +spent with the governor; and the partners were convinced that they must +either go on with the venture or lose all. They consented to continue +supplying goods, but also charging all outlay against the explorer. + +Father Aulneau went back with De la Vérendrye as chaplain. The trip +was made at terrible speed, in the hottest season, through stifling +forest fires. Behind, at slower pace, came the provisions. De la +Vérendrye reached the Lake of the Woods in September. Fearing the +delay of the goods for trade, and dreading the danger of famine with so +many men in one place, De la Vérendrye despatched Jemmeraie to winter +with part of the forces at Lake Winnipeg, where Jean and Pierre, the +second son, had built Fort Maurepas. The worst fears were realized. +Ice had blocked the Northern rivers by the time the supplies had come +to Lake Superior. Fishing failed. The hunt was poor. During the +winter of 1736 food became scantier at the little forts of St. Pierre, +St. Charles, and Maurepas. Rations were reduced from three times to +once and twice a day. By spring De la Vérendrye was put to all the +extremities of famine-stricken traders, his men subsisting on +parchment, moccasin leather, roots, and their hunting dogs. + +He was compelled to wait at St. Charles for the delayed supplies. +While he waited came blow upon blow: Jean and Pierre arrived from Fort +Maurepas with news that Jemmeraie had died three weeks before on his +way down to aid De la Vérendrye. Wrapped in a hunter's robe, his body +was buried in the sand-bank of a little Northern stream, La Fourche des +Roseaux. Over the lonely grave the two brothers had erected a cross. +Father and sons took stock of supplies. They had not enough powder to +last another month, and already the Indians were coming in with furs +and food to be traded for ammunition. If the Crees had known the +weakness of the white men, short work might have been made of Fort St. +Charles. It never entered the minds of De la Vérendrye and his sons to +give up. They decided to rush three canoes of twenty _voyageurs_ to +Michilimackinac for food and powder. Father Aulneau, the young priest, +accompanied the boatmen to attend a religious retreat at +Michilimackinac. It had been a hard year for the youthful missionary. +The ship that brought him from France had been plague-stricken. The +trip to Fort St. Charles had been arduous and swift, through stifling +heat; and the year passed in the North was one of famine. + +Accompanied by the priest and led by Jean de la Vérendrye, now in his +twenty-third year, the _voyageurs_ embarked hurriedly on the 8th of +June, 1736, five years to a day from the time that they left +Montreal--and a fateful day it was--in the search for the Western Sea. +The Crees had always been friendly; and when the boatmen landed on a +sheltered island twenty miles from Fort St. Charles to camp for the +night, no sentry was stationed. The lake lay calm as glass in the hot +June night, the camp-fire casting long lines across the water that +could be seen for miles. An early start was to be made in the morning +and a furious pace to be kept all the way to Lake Superior, and the +_voyageurs_ were presently sound asleep on the sand. The keenest ears +could scarcely have distinguished the soft lapping of muffled paddles; +and no one heard the moccasined tread of ambushed Indians +reconnoitring. Seventeen Sioux stepped from their canoes, stole from +cover to cover, and looked out on the unsuspecting sleepers. Then the +Indians as noiselessly slipped back to their canoes to carry word of +the discovery to a band of marauders. + +[Illustration: "The soldiers marched out from Mount Royal."] + +Something had occurred at Fort St. Charles without M. de la Vérendrye's +knowledge. Hilarious with their new possessions of firearms, and +perhaps, also, mad with the brandy of which Father Aulneau had +complained, a few mischievous Crees had fired from the fort on +wandering Sioux of the prairie. + +"Who--fire--on--us?" demanded the outraged Sioux. + +"The French," laughed the Crees. + +The Sioux at once went back to a band of one hundred and thirty +warriors. "Tigers of the plains" the Sioux were called, and now the +tigers' blood was up. They set out to slay the first white man seen. +By chance, he was one Bourassa, coasting by himself. Taking him +captive, they had tied him to burn him, when a slave squaw rushed out, +crying: "What would you do? This Frenchman is a friend of the Sioux! +He saved my life! If you desire to be avenged, go farther on! You +will find a camp of Frenchmen, among whom is the son of the white +chief!" + +The _voyageur_ was at once unbound, and scouts scattered to find the +white men. Night had passed before the scouts had carried news of Jean +de la Vérendrye's men to the marauding warriors. The ghostly gray of +dawn saw the _voyageurs_ paddling swiftly through the morning mist from +island to island of the Lake of the Woods. Cleaving the mist behind, +following solely by the double foam wreaths rippling from the canoe +prows, came the silent boats of the Sioux. When sunrise lifted the +fog, the pursuers paused like stealthy cats. At sunrise Jean de la +Vérendrye landed his crews for breakfast. Camp-fires told the Indians +where to follow. + + +A few days later bands of Sautaux came to the camping ground of the +French. The heads of the white men lay on a beaver skin. All had been +scalped. The missionary, Aulneau, was on his knees, as if in morning +prayers. An arrow projected from his head. His left hand was on the +earth, fallen forward, his right hand uplifted, invoking Divine aid. +Young Vérendrye lay face down, his back hacked to pieces, a spear sunk +in his waist, the headless body mockingly decorated with porcupine +quills. So died one of the bravest of the young nobility in New France. + +The Sautaux erected a cairn of stones over the bodies of the dead. All +that was known of the massacre was vague Indian gossip. The Sioux +reported that they had not intended to murder the priest, but a +crazy-brained fanatic had shot the fatal arrow and broken from +restraint, weapon in hand. Rain-storms had washed out all marks of the +fray. + +In September the bodies of the victims were carried to Fort St. +Charles, and interred in the chapel. Eight hundred Crees besought M. +de la Vérendrye to let them avenge the murder; but the veteran of +Malplaquet exhorted them not to war. Meanwhile, Fort St. Charles +awaited the coming of supplies from Lake Superior. + + +IV + +1736-1740 + +A week passed, and on the 17th of June the canoe loads of ammunition +and supplies for which the murdered _voyageurs_ had been sent arrived +at Fort St. Charles. In June the Indian hunters came in with the +winter's hunt; and on the 20th thirty Sautaux hurried to Fort St. +Charles, to report that they had found the mangled bodies of the +massacred Frenchmen on an island seven leagues from the fort. Again La +Vérendrye had to choose whether to abandon his cherished dreams, or +follow them at the risk of ruin and death. As before, when his men had +mutinied, he determined to advance. + +Jean, the eldest son, was dead. Pierre and François were with their +father. Louis, the youngest, now seventeen years of age, had come up +with the supplies. Pierre at once went to Lake Winnipeg, to prepare +Fort Maurepas for the reception of all the forces. Winter set in. +Snow lay twelve feet deep in the forests now known as the Minnesota +Borderlands. On February 8, 1737, in the face of a biting north wind, +with the thermometer at forty degrees below zero, M. de la Vérendrye +left Fort St. Charles, François carrying the French flag, with ten +soldiers, wearing snow-shoes, in line behind, and two or three hundred +Crees swathed in furs bringing up a ragged rear. The bright uniforms +of the soldiers were patches of red among the snowy everglades. +Bivouac was made on beds of pine boughs,--feet to the camp-fire, the +night frost snapping like a whiplash, the stars flashing with a steely +clearness known only in northern climes. The march was at a swift +pace, for three weeks by canoe is short enough time to traverse the +Minnesota and Manitoba Borderlands northwest to Lake Winnipeg; and in +seventeen days M. de la Vérendrye was at Fort Maurepas. + +Fort Maurepas (in the region of the modern Alexander) lay on a tongue +of sand extending into the lake a few miles beyond the entrance of Red +River. Tamarack and poplar fringe the shore; and in windy weather the +lake is lashed into a roughness that resembles the flux of ocean tides. +I remember once going on a steamer towards the site of Maurepas. The +ship drew lightest of draft. While we were anchored the breeze fell, +and the ship was stranded as if by ebb tide for twenty-four hours. The +action of the wind explained the Indian tales of an ocean tide, which +had misled La Vérendrye into expecting to find the Western Sea at this +point. He found a magnificent body of fresh water, but not the ocean. +The fort was the usual pioneer fur post--a barracks of unbarked logs, +chinked up with frozen clay and moss, roofed with branches and snow, +occupying the centre of a courtyard, palisaded by slabs of pine logs. +M. de la Vérendrye was now in the true realm of the explorer--in +territory where no other white man had trod. With a shout his motley +forces emerged from the snowy tamaracks, and with a shout from Pierre +de la Vérendrye and his tawny followers the explorer was welcomed +through the gateway of little Fort Maurepas. + +[Illustration: Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca +River.] + +Pierre de la Vérendrye had heard of a region to the south much +frequented by the Assiniboine Indians, who had conducted Radisson to +the Sea of the North fifty years before--the Forks where the +Assiniboine River joins the Red, and the city of Winnipeg stands +to-day. It was reported that game was plentiful here. Two hundred +tepees of Assiniboines were awaiting the explorer. His forces were +worn with their marching, but in a few weeks the glaze of ice above the +fathomless drifts of snow would be too rotten for travel, and not until +June would the riverways be clear for canoes. But such a scant supply +of goods had his partners sent up that poor De la Vérendrye had nothing +to trade with the waiting Assiniboines. Sending his sons forward to +reconnoitre the Forks of the Assiniboine,--the modern Winnipeg,--he set +out for Montreal as soon as navigation opened, taking with him fourteen +great canoes of precious furs. + +The fourteen canoe loads proved his salvation. As long as there were +furs and prospects of furs, his partners would back the enterprise of +finding the Western Sea. The winter of 1738 was spent as the guest of +the governor at Château St. Louis. The partners were satisfied, and +plucked up hope of their venture. They would advance provisions in +proportion to earnings. By September he was back at Fort Maurepas on +Lake Winnipeg, pushing for the undiscovered bourne of the Western Sea. +Leaving orders for trade with the chief clerk at Maurepas, De la +Vérendrye picked out his most intrepid men; and in September of 1738, +for the first time in history, white men glided up the ochre-colored, +muddy current of the Red for the Forks of the Assiniboine. Ten Cree +wigwams and two war chiefs awaited De la Vérendrye on the low flats of +what are now known as South Winnipeg. Not the fabled Western Sea, but +an illimitable ocean of rolling prairie--the long russet grass rising +and falling to the wind like waves to the run of invisible +feet--stretched out before the eager eyes of the explorer. Northward +lay the autumn-tinged brushwood of Red River. South, shimmering in the +purple mists of Indian summer, was Red River Valley. Westward the sun +hung like a red shield, close to the horizon, over vast reaches of +prairie billowing to the sky-line in the tide of a boundless ocean. +Such was the discovery of the Canadian Northwest. + +Doubtless the weary gaze of the tired _voyageurs_ turned longingly +westward. Where was the Western Sea? Did it lie just beyond the +horizon where skyline and prairie met, or did the trail of their quest +run on--on--on--endlessly? The Assiniboine flows into the Red, the Red +into Lake Winnipeg, the Lake into Hudson Bay. Plainly, Assiniboine +Valley was not the way to the Western Sea. But what lay just beyond +this Assiniboine Valley? An old Cree chief warned the boatmen that the +Assiniboine River was very low and would wreck the canoes; but he also +told vague yarns of "great waters beyond the mountains of the setting +sun," where white men dwelt, and the waves came in a tide, and the +waters were salt. The Western Sea where the Spaniards dwelt had long +been known. It was a Western Sea to the north, that would connect +Louisiana and Canada, that De la Vérendrye sought. The Indian fables, +without doubt, referred to a sea beyond the Assiniboine River, and +thither would De la Vérendrye go at any cost. Some sort of barracks or +shelter was knocked up on the south side of the Assiniboine opposite +the flats. It was subsequently known as Fort Rouge, after the color of +the adjacent river, and was the foundation of Winnipeg. Leaving men to +trade at Fort Rouge, De la Vérendrye set out on September 26, 1738, for +the height of land that must lie beyond the sources of the Assiniboine. +De la Vérendrye was now like a man hounded by his own Frankenstein. A +thousand leagues--every one marked by disaster and failure and sinking +hopes--lay behind him. A thousand leagues of wilderness lay before +him. He had only a handful of men. The Assiniboine Indians were of +dubious friendliness. The white men were scarce of food. In a few +weeks they would be exposed to the terrible rigors of Northern winter. +Yet they set their faces toward the west, types of the pioneers who +have carved empire out of wilderness. + +[Illustration: The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains.] + +The Assiniboine was winding and low, with many sand bars. On the +wooded banks deer and buffalo grazed in such countless multitudes that +the boatmen took them for great herds of cattle. Flocks of wild geese +darkened the sky overhead. As the boats wound up the shallows of the +river, ducks rose in myriad flocks. Prairie wolves skulked away from +the river bank, and the sand-hill cranes were so unused to human +presence that they scarcely rose as the voyageurs poled past. While +the boatmen poled, the soldiers marched in military order across +country, so avoiding the bends of the river. Daily, Crees and +Assiniboines of the plains joined the white men. A week after leaving +the Forks or Fort Rouge, De la Vérendrye came to the Portage of the +Prairie, leading north to Lake Manitoba and from the lake to Hudson +Bay. Clearly, northward was not the way to the Western Sea; but the +Assiniboines told of a people to the southwest--the Mandans--who knew a +people who lived on the Western Sea. As soon as his baggage came up, +De la Vérendrye ordered the construction of a fort--called De la +Reine--on the banks of the Assiniboine. This was to be the forwarding +post for the Western Sea. To the Mandans living on the Missouri, who +knew a people living on salt water, De la Vérendrye now directed his +course. + +[Illustration: Hungry Hall, 1870; near the site of the Vérendrye Fort +in Rainy River Region.] + +On the morning of October 18 drums beat to arms. Additional men had +come up from the other forts. Fifty-two soldiers and _voyageurs_ now +stood in line. Arms were inspected. To each man were given powder, +balls, axe, and kettle. Pierre and François de la Vérendrye hoisted +the French flag. For the first time a bugle call sounded over the +prairie. At the word, out stepped the little band of white men, +marking time for the Western Sea. The course lay west-southwest, up +the Souris River, through wooded ravines now stripped of foliage, past +alkali sloughs ice-edged by frost, over rolling cliffs russet and bare, +where gopher and badger and owl and roving buffalo were the only signs +of life. On the 21st of October two hundred Assiniboine warriors +joined the marching white men. In the sheltered ravines buffalo grazed +by the hundreds of thousands, and the march was delayed by frequent +buffalo hunts to gather pemmican--pounded marrow and fat of the +buffalo--which was much esteemed by the Mandans. Within a month so +many Assiniboines had joined the French that the company numbered more +than six hundred warriors, who were ample protection against the Sioux; +and the Sioux were the deadly terror of all tribes of the plains. But +M. de la Vérendrye was expected to present ammunition to his +Assiniboine friends. + +Four outrunners went speeding to the Missouri to notify the Mandans of +the advancing warriors. The _coureurs_ carried presents of pemmican. +To prevent surprise, the Assiniboines marched under the sheltered +slopes of the hills and observed military order. In front rode the +warriors, dressed in garnished buckskin and armed with spears and +arrows. Behind, on foot, came the old and the lame. To the rear was +another guard of warriors. Lagging in ragged lines far back came a +ragamuffin brigade, the women, children, and dogs--squaws astride +cayuses lean as barrel hoops, children in moss bags on their mothers' +backs, and horses and dogs alike harnessed with the _travaille_--two +sticks tied into a triangle, with the shafts fastened to a cinch on +horse or dog. The joined end of the shafts dragged on the ground, and +between them hung the baggage, surmounted by papoose, or pet owl, or +the half-tamed pup of a prairie-wolf, or even a wild-eyed young squaw +with hair flying to the wind. At night camp was made in a circle +formed of the hobbled horses. Outside, the dogs scoured in pursuit of +coyotes. The women and children took refuge in the centre, and the +warriors slept near their picketed horses. By the middle of November +the motley cavalcade had crossed the height of land between the +Assiniboine River and the Missouri, and was heading for the Mandan +villages. Mandan _coureurs_ came out to welcome the visitors, +pompously presenting De la Vérendrye with corn in the ear and tobacco. +At this stage, the explorer discovered that his bag of presents for his +hosts had been stolen by the Assiniboines; but he presented the Mandans +with what ammunition he could spare, and gave them plenty of pemmican +which his hunters had cured. The two tribes drove a brisk trade in +furs, which the northern Indians offered, and painted plumes, which the +Mandans displayed to the envy of Assiniboine warriors. + +On the 3d of December, De la Vérendrye's sons stepped before the ragged +host of six hundred savages with the French flag hoisted. The explorer +himself was lifted to the shoulders of the Mandan _coureurs_. A gun +was fired and the strange procession set out for the Mandan villages. +In this fashion white men first took possession of the Upper Missouri. +Some miles from the lodges a band of old chiefs met De la Vérendrye and +gravely handed him a grand calumet of pipestone ornamented with eagle +feathers. This typified peace. De la Vérendrye ordered his fifty +French followers to draw up in line. The sons placed the French flag +four paces to the fore. The Assiniboine warriors took possession in +stately Indian silence to the right and left of the whites. At a +signal three thundering volleys of musketry were fired. The Mandans +fell back, prostrated with fear and wonder. The command "forward" was +given, and the Mandan village was entered in state at four in the +afternoon of December 3, 1738. + +The village was in much the same condition as a hundred years later +when visited by Prince Maximilian and by the artist Catlin. It +consisted of circular huts, with thatched roofs, on which perched the +gaping women and children. Around the village of huts ran a moat or +ditch, which was guarded in time of war with the Sioux. Flags flew +from the centre poles of each hut; but the flags were the scalps of +enemies slain. In the centre of the village was a larger hut. This +was the "medicine lodge," or council hall, of the chiefs, used only for +ceremonies of religion and war and treaties of peace. Thither De la +Vérendrye was conducted. Here the Mandan chiefs sat on buffalo robes +in a circle round the fire, smoking the calumet, which was handed to +the white man. The explorer then told the Indians of his search for +the Western Sea. Of a Western Sea they could tell him nothing +definite. They knew a people far west who grew corn and tobacco and +who lived on the shores of water that was bitter for drinking. The +people were white. They dressed in armor and lived in houses of stone. +Their country was full of mountains. More of the Western Sea, De la +Vérendrye could not learn. + +Meanwhile, six hundred Assiniboine visitors were a tax on the +hospitality of the Mandans, who at once spread a rumor of a Sioux raid. +This gave speed to the Assiniboines' departure. Among the Assiniboines +who ran off in precipitate fright was De la Vérendrye's interpreter. +It was useless to wait longer. The French were short of provisions, +and the Missouri Indians could not be expected to support fifty white +men. Though it was the bitter cold of midwinter, De la Vérendrye +departed for Fort de la Reine. Two Frenchmen were left to learn the +Missouri dialects. A French flag in a leaden box with the arms of +France inscribed was presented to the Mandan chief; and De la Vérendrye +marched from the village on the 8th of December. Scarcely had he left, +when he fell terribly ill; but for the pathfinder of the wilderness +there is neither halt nor retreat. M. de la Vérendrye's ragged army +tramped wearily on, half blinded by snow glare and buffeted by prairie +blizzards, huddling in snowdrifts from the wind at night and uncertain +of their compass over the white wastes by day. There is nothing so +deadly silent and utterly destitute of life as the prairie in +midwinter. Moose and buffalo had sought the shelter of wooded ravines. +Here a fox track ran over the snow. There a coyote skulked from cover, +to lope away the next instant for brushwood or hollow, and +snow-buntings or whiskey-jacks might have followed the marchers for +pickings of waste; but east, west, north, and south was nothing but the +wide, white wastes of drifted snow. On Christmas Eve of 1738 low +curling smoke above the prairie told the wanderers that they were +nearing the Indian camps of the Assiniboines; and by nightfall of +February 10, 1739, they were under the shelter of Fort de la Reine. "I +have never been so wretched from illness and fatigue in all my life as +on that journey," reported De la Vérendrye. As usual, provisions were +scarce at the fort. Fifty people had to be fed. Buffalo and deer meat +saved the French from starvation till spring. + +[Illustration: A Monarch of the Plains.] + +All that De la Vérendrye had accomplished on this trip was to learn +that salt water existed west-southwest. Anxious to know more of the +Northwest, he sent his sons to the banks of a great northern river. +This was the Saskatchewan. In their search of the Northwest, they +constructed two more trading posts, Fort Dauphin near Lake Manitoba, +and Bourbon on the Saskatchewan. Winter quarters were built at the +forks of the river, which afterwards became the site of Fort Poskoyac. +This spring not a canoe load of food came up from Montreal. Papers had +been served for the seizure of all De la Vérendrye's forts, goods, +property, and chattels to meet the claims of his creditors. Desperate, +but not deterred from his quest, De la Vérendrye set out to contest the +lawsuits in Montreal. + + +V + +1740-1750 + +Which way to turn now for the Western Sea that eluded their quest like +a will-o'-the-wisp was the question confronting Pierre, François, and +Louis de la Vérendrye during the explorer's absence in Montreal. They +had followed the great Saskatchewan westward to its forks. No river +was found in this region flowing in the direction of the Western Sea. +They had been in the country of the Missouri; but neither did any river +there flow to a Western Sea. Yet the Mandans told of salt water far to +the west. Thither they would turn the baffling search. + +The two men left among the Mandans to learn the language had returned +to the Assiniboine River with more news of tribes from "the setting +sun" who dwelt on salt water. Pierre de la Vérendrye went down to the +Missouri with the two interpreters; but the Mandans refused to supply +guides that year, and the young Frenchman came back to winter on the +Assiniboine. Here he made every preparation for another attempt to +find the Western Sea by way of the Missouri. On April 29, 1742, the +two brothers, Pierre and François, left the Assiniboine with the two +interpreters. Their course led along the trail that for two hundred +years was to be a famous highway between the Missouri and Hudson Bay. +Heading southwest, they followed the Souris River to the watershed of +the Missouri, and in three weeks were once more the guests of the smoky +Mandan lodges. Round the inside walls of each circular hut ran berth +beds of buffalo skin with trophies of the chase,--hide-shields and +weapons of war, fastened to the posts that separated berth from berth. +A common fire, with a family meat pot hanging above, occupied the +centre of the lodge. In one of these lodges the two brothers and their +men were quartered. The summer passed feasting with the Mandans and +smoking the calumet of peace; but all was in vain. The Missouri +Indians were arrant cowards in the matter of war. The terror of their +existence was the Sioux. The Mandans would not venture through Sioux +territory to accompany the brothers in the search for the Western Sea. +At last two guides were obtained, who promised to conduct the French to +a neighboring tribe that might know of the Western Sea. + +[Illustration: Fur Traders' Boats towed down the Saskatchewan in the +Summer of 1900.] + +The party set out on horseback, travelling swiftly southwest and along +the valley of the Little Missouri toward the Black Hills. Here their +course turned sharply west toward the Powder River country, past the +southern bounds of the Yellowstone. For three weeks they saw no sign +of human existence. Deer and antelope bounded over the parched alkali +uplands. Prairie dogs perched on top of their earth mounds, to watch +the lonely riders pass; and all night the far howl of grayish forms on +the offing of the starlit prairie told of prowling coyotes. On the +11th of August the brothers camped on the Powder Hills. Mounting to +the crest of a cliff, they scanned far and wide for signs of the +Indians whom the Mandans knew. The valleys were desolate. Kindling a +signal-fire to attract any tribes that might be roaming, they built a +hut and waited. A month passed. There was no answering signal. One +of the Mandan guides took himself off in fright. On the fifth week a +thin line of smoke rose against the distant sky. The remaining Mandans +went to reconnoitre and found a camp of Beaux Hommes, or Crows, who +received the French well. Obtaining fresh guides from the Crows and +dismissing the Mandans, the brothers again headed westward. The Crows +guided them to the Horse Indians, who in turn took the French to their +next western neighbors, the Bows. The Bows were preparing to war on +the Snakes, a mountain tribe to the west. Tepees dotted the valley. +Women were pounding the buffalo meat into pemmican for the raiders. +The young braves spent the night with war-song and war-dance, to work +themselves into a frenzy of bravado. The Bows were to march west; so +the French joined the warriors, gradually turning northwest toward what +is now Helena. + +It was winter. The hills were powdered with snow that obliterated all +traces of the fleeing Snakes. The way became more mountainous and +dangerous. Iced sloughs gave place to swift torrents and cataracts. +On New Year's day, 1743, there rose through the gray haze to the fore +the ragged sky-line of the Bighorn Mountains. Women and children were +now left in a sheltered valley, the warriors advancing unimpeded. +François de la Vérendrye remained at the camp to guard the baggage. +Pierre went on with the raiders. In two weeks they were at the foot of +the main range of the northern Rockies. Against the sky the snowy +heights rose--an impassable barrier between the plains and the Western +Sea. What lay beyond--the Beyond that had been luring them on and on, +from river to river and land to land, for more than ten years? Surely +on the other side of those lofty summits one might look down on the +long-sought Western Sea. Never suspecting that another thousand miles +of wilderness and mountain fastness lay between him and his quest, +young De la Vérendrye wanted to cross the Great Divide. Destiny +decreed otherwise. The raid of the Bows against the Snakes ended in a +fiasco. No Snakes were to be found at their usual winter hunt. Had +they decamped to massacre the Bow women and children left in the valley +to the rear? The Bows fled back to their wives in a panic; so De la +Vérendrye could not climb the mountains that barred the way to the sea. +The retreat was made in the teeth of a howling mountain blizzard, and +the warriors reached the rendezvous more dead than alive. No Snake +Indians were seen at all. The Bows marched homeward along the valley +of the Upper Missouri through the country of the Sioux, with whom they +were allied. On the banks of the river the brothers buried a leaden +plate with the royal arms of France imprinted. At the end of July, +1743, they were once more back on the Assiniboine River. For thirteen +years they had followed a hopeless quest. Instead of a Western Sea, +they had found a sea of prairie, a sea of mountains, and two great +rivers, the Saskatchewan and the Missouri. + + +VI + +1743-1750 + +But the explorer, who had done so much to extend French domain in the +West, was a ruined man. To the accusations of his creditors were added +the jealous calumnies of fur traders eager to exploit the new country. +The eldest son, with tireless energy, had gone up the Saskatchewan to +Fort Poskoyac when he was recalled to take a position in the army at +Montreal. In 1746 De la Vérendrye himself was summoned to Quebec and +his command given to M. de Noyelles. The game being played by jealous +rivals was plain. De la Vérendrye was to be kept out of the West while +tools of the Quebec traders spied out the fur trade of the Assiniboine +and the Missouri. Immediately on receiving freedom from military duty, +young Chevalier de la Vérendrye set out for Manitoba. On the way he +met his father's successor, M. de Noyelles, coming home crestfallen. +The supplanter had failed to control the Indians. In one year half the +forts of the chain leading to the Western Sea had been destroyed. +These Chevalier de la Vérendrye restored as he passed westward. + +Governor Beauharnois had always refused to believe the charges of +private peculation against M. de la Vérendrye. Governor de la +Galissonnière was equally favorable to the explorer; and De la +Vérendrye was decorated with the Order of the Cross of St. Louis, and +given permission to continue his explorations. The winter of 1749 was +passed preparing supplies for the posts of the West; but a life of +hardship and disappointment had undermined the constitution of the +dauntless pathfinder. On the 6th of December, while busy with plans +for his hazardous and thankless quest, he died suddenly at Montreal. + +Rival fur traders scrambled for the spoils of the Manitoba and Missouri +territory like dogs for a bone. De la Jonquière had become governor. +Allied with him was the infamous Bigot, the intendant, and those two +saw in the Western fur trade an opportunity to enrich themselves. The +rights of De la Vérendrye's sons to succeed their father were entirely +disregarded. Legardeur de Saint-Pierre was appointed commander of the +Western Sea. The very goods forwarded by De la Vérendrye were +confiscated. + +[Illustration: "Tepees dotted the valley."] + +But Saint-Pierre had enough trouble from his appointment. His +lieutenant, M. de Niverville, almost lost his life among hostiles on +the way down the Saskatchewan after building Fort Lajonquière at the +foothills of the Rockies, where Calgary now stands. Saint-Pierre had +headquarters in Manitoba on the Assiniboine, and one afternoon in +midwinter, when his men were out hunting, he saw his fort suddenly fill +with armed Assiniboines bent on massacre. They jostled him aside, +broke into the armory, and helped themselves to weapons. Saint-Pierre +had only one recourse. Seizing a firebrand, he tore the cover off a +keg of powder and threatened to blow the Indians to perdition. The +marauders dashed from the fort, and Saint-Pierre shot the bolts of gate +and sally-port. When the white hunters returned, they quickly gathered +their possessions together and abandoned Fort de la Reine. Four days +later the fort lay in ashes. So ended the dream of enthusiasts to find +a way overland to the Western Sea. + + +[1] The authorities for La Vérendrye's life are, of course, his own +reports as found in the State Papers of the Canadian Archives, Pierre +Margry's compilation of these reports, and the Rev. Father Jones' +collection of the _Aulneau Letters_. + +[2] The _Pays d'en Haut_ or "Up-Country" was the vague name given by +the fur traders to the region between the Missouri and the North Pole. + +[3] Throughout this volume the word "Sioux" is used as applying to the +entire confederacy, and not to the Minnesota Sioux only. + + + + +PART III + +1769-1782 + +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS + SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC CIRCLE AND + ATHABASCA REGION + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +1769-1782 + +SAMUEL HEARNE + +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and the +Northwest Passage--Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton--The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle--Discovery of the Athabasca Country--Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French--Frightful Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee + + +For a hundred years after receiving its charter to exploit the furs of +the North, the Hudson's Bay Company slumbered on the edge of a frozen +sea. + +Its fur posts were scattered round the desolate shores of the Northern +bay like beads on a string; but the languid Company never attempted to +penetrate the unknown lands beyond the coast. It was unnecessary. The +Indians came to the Company. The company did not need to go to the +Indians. Just as surely as spring cleared the rivers of ice and set +the unlocked torrents rushing to the sea, there floated down-stream +Indian dugout and birch canoe, loaded with wealth of peltries for the +fur posts of the English Company. So the English sat snugly secure +inside their stockades, lords of the wilderness, and drove a thriving +trade with folded hands. For a penny knife, they bought a beaver skin; +and the skin sold in Europe for two or three shillings. The trade of +the old Company was not brisk; but it paid. + +[Illustration: An Eskimo Belle. Note the apron of ermine and sable]. + +It was the prod of keen French traders that stirred the slumbering +giant. In his search for the Western Sea, De la Vérendrye had pushed +west by way of the Great Lakes to the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains +and the Saskatchewan. Henceforth, not so many furs came down-stream to +the English Company on the bay. De la Vérendrye had been followed by +hosts of free-lances--_coureurs_ and _voyageurs_--who spread through +the wilderness from the Missouri to the Athabasca, intercepting the +fleets of furs that formerly went to Hudson Bay. The English Company +rubbed its eyes; and rivals at home began to ask what had been done in +return for the charter. France had never ceased seeking the mythical +Western Sea that was supposed to lie just beyond the Mississippi; and +when French buccaneers destroyed the English Company's forts on the +bay, the English ambassador at Paris exacted such an enormous bill of +damages that the Hudson Bay traders were enabled to build a stronger +fortress up at Prince of Wales on the mouth of Churchill River than the +French themselves possessed at Quebec on the St. Lawrence. What--asked +the rivals of the Company in London--had been done in return for such +national protection? France had discovered and explored a whole new +world north of the Missouri. What had the English done? Where did the +Western Sea of which Spain had possession in the South lie towards the +North? What lay between the Hudson Bay and that Western Sea? Was +there a Northwest passage by water through this region to Asia? If +not, was there an undiscovered world in the North, like Louisiana in +the South? There was talk of revoking the charter. Then the Company +awakened from its long sleep with a mighty stir. + +The annual boats that came out to Hudson Bay in the summer of 1769 +anchored on the offing, six miles from the gray walls of Fort Prince of +Wales, and roared out a salute of cannon becoming the importance of +ships that bore almost revolutionary commissions. The fort cannon on +the walls of Churchill River thundered their answer. A pinnace came +scudding over the waves from the ships. A gig boat launched out from +the fort to welcome the messengers. Where the two met halfway, packets +of letters were handed to Moses Norton, governor at Fort Prince of +Wales, commanding him to despatch his most intrepid explorers for the +discovery of unknown rivers, strange lands, rumored copper mines, and +the mythical Northwest Passage that was supposed to lead directly to +China. + +The fort lay on a spit of sand running out into the bay at the mouth of +Churchill River. It was three hundred yards long by three hundred +yards wide, with four bastions, in three of which were stores and wells +of water. The fourth bastion contained the powder-magazine. The walls +were thirty feet wide at the bottom and twenty feet wide at the top, of +hammer-dressed stone, mounted with forty great cannon. A commodious +stone house, furnished with all the luxuries of the chase, stood in the +centre of the courtyard. This was the residence of the governor. +Offices, warehouses, barracks, and hunters' lodges were banked round +the inner walls of the fort. The garrison consisted of thirty-nine +common soldiers and a few officers. In addition, there hung about the +fort the usual habitués of a Northern fur post,--young clerks from +England, who had come out for a year's experience in the wilds; +underpaid artisans, striving to mend their fortunes by illicit trade; +hunters and _coureurs_ and _voyageurs_, living like Indians but with a +strain of white blood that forever distinguished them from their +comrades; stately Indian sachems, stalking about the fort with whiffs +of contempt from their long calumets for all this white-man luxury; and +a ragamuffin brigade,--squaws, youngsters, and beggars,--who subsisted +by picking up food from the waste heap of the fort. + +The commission to despatch explorers to the inland country proved the +sensation of a century at the fort. Round the long mess-room table +gathered officers and traders, intent on the birch-bark maps drawn by +old Indian chiefs of an unknown interior, where a "Far-Off-Metal River" +flowed down to the Northwest Passage. Huge log fires blazed on the +stone hearths at each end of the mess room. Smoky lanterns and pine +fagots, dipped in tallow and stuck in iron clamps, shed a fitful light +from rafters that girded ceiling and walls. On the floor of flagstones +lay enormous skins of the chase--polar bear, Arctic wolf, and grizzly. +Heads of musk-ox, caribou, and deer decorated the great timber girders. +Draped across the walls were Company flags--an English ensign with the +letters "H. B. C." painted in white on a red background, or in red on a +white background. + +At the head of the table sat one of the most remarkable scoundrels +known in the annals of the Company, Moses Norton, governor of Fort +Prince of Wales, a full-blooded Indian, who had been sent to England +for nine years to be educated and had returned to the fort to resume +all the vices and none of the virtues of white man and red. +Clean-skinned, copper-colored, lithe and wiry as a tiger cat, with the +long, lank, oily black hair of his race, Norton bore himself with all +the airs of a European princelet and dressed himself in the beaded +buckskins of a savage. Before him the Indians cringed as before one of +their demon gods, and on the same principle. Bad gods could do the +Indians harm. Good gods wouldn't. Therefore, the Indians propitiated +the bad gods; and of all Indian demons Norton was the worst. The black +arts of mediaeval poisoning were known to him, and he never scrupled to +use them against an enemy. The Indians thought him possessed of the +power of the evil eye; but his power was that of arsenic or laudanum +dropped in the food of an unsuspecting enemy. Two of his wives, with +all of whom he was inordinately jealous, had died of poison. Against +white men who might offend him he used more open means,--the triangle, +the whipping post, the branding iron. Needless to say that a man who +wielded such power swelled the Company's profits and stood high in +favor with the directors. At his right hand lay an enormous bunch of +keys. These he carried with him by day and kept under his pillow by +night. They were the keys to the apartments of his many wives, for +like all Indians Norton believed in a plurality of wives, and the life +of no Indian was safe who refused to contribute a daughter to the +harem. The two master passions of the governor were jealousy and +tyranny; and while he lived like a Turkish despot himself, he ruled his +fort with a rod of iron and left the brand of his wrath on the person +of soldier or officer who offered indignity to the Indian race. It was +a common thing for Norton to poison an Indian who refused to permit a +daughter to join the collection of wives; then to flog the back off a +soldier who casually spoke to one of the wives in the courtyard; and in +the evening spend the entire supper hour preaching sermons on virtue to +his men. By a curious freak, Marie, his daughter, now a child of nine, +inherited from her father the gentle qualities of the English life in +which he had passed his youth. She shunned the native women and was +often to be seen hanging on her father's arm, as officers and governor +smoked their pipes over the mess-room table. + +Near Norton sat another famous Indian, Matonabbee, the son of a slave +woman at the fort, who had grown up to become a great ambassador to the +native tribes for the English traders. Measuring more than six feet, +straight as a lance, supple as a wrestler, thin, wiry, alert, restless +with the instinct of the wild creatures, Matonabbee was now in the +prime of his manhood, chief of the Chipewyans at the fort, and master +of life and death to all in his tribe. It was Matonabbee whom the +English traders sent up the Saskatchewan to invite the tribes of the +Athabasca down to the bay. The Athabascans listened to the message of +peace with a treacherous smile. At midnight assassins stole to his +tent, overpowered his slave, and dragged the captive out. Leaping to +his feet, Matonabbee shouted defiance, hurled his assailants aside like +so many straws, pursued the raiders to their tents, single-handed +released his slave, and marched out unscathed. That was the way +Matonabbee had won the Athabascans for the Hudson's Bay Company. + +Officers of the garrison, bluff sea-captains, spinning yarns of iceberg +and floe, soldiers and traders, made up the rest of the company. Among +the white men was one eager face,--that of Samuel Hearne, who was to +explore the interior and now scanned the birch-bark drawings to learn +the way to the "Far-off-Metal River." + +[Illustration: Samuel Hearne.] + +By November 6 all was in readiness for the departure of the explorer. +Two Indian guides, who knew the way to the North, were assigned to +Hearne; two European servants went with him to look after the +provisions; and two Indian hunters joined the company. In the gray +mist of Northern dawn, with the stars still pricking through the frosty +air, seven salutes of cannon awakened the echoes of the frozen sea. +The gates of the fort flung open, creaking with the frost rust, and +Hearne came out, followed by his little company, the dog bells of the +long toboggan sleighs setting up a merry jingling as the huskies broke +from a trot to a gallop over the snow-fields for the North. Heading +west-northwest, the band travelled swiftly with all the enthusiasm of +untested courage. North winds cut their faces like whip-lashes. The +first night out there was not enough snow to make a wind-break of the +drifts; so the sleighs were piled on edge to windward, dogs and men +lying heterogeneously in their shelter. When morning came, one of the +Indian guides had deserted. The way became barer. Frozen swamps +across which the storm wind swept with hurricane force were succeeded +by high, rocky barrens devoid of game, unsheltered, with barely enough +stunted shrubbery for the whittling of chips that cooked the morning +and night meals. In a month the travellers had not accomplished ten +miles a day. Where deer were found the Indians halted to gorge +themselves with feasts. Where game was scarce they lay in camp, +depending on the white hunters. Within three weeks rations had +dwindled to one partridge a day for the entire company. The Indians +seemed to think that Hearne's white servants had secret store of food +on the sleighs. The savages refused to hunt. Then Hearne suspected +some ulterior design. It was to drive him back to the fort by famine. +Henceforth, he noticed on the march that the Indians always preceded +the whites and secured any game before his men could fire a shot. One +night toward the end of November the savages plundered the sleighs. +Hearne awakened in amazement to see the company marching off, laden +with guns, ammunition, and hatchets. He called. Their answer was +laughter that set the woods ringing. Hearne was now two hundred miles +from the fort, without either ammunition or food. There was nothing to +do but turn back. The weather was fair. By snaring partridges, the +white men obtained enough game to sustain them till they reached the +fort on the 11th of December. + +[Illustration: Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle.] + +The question now was whether to wait till spring or set out in the +teeth of midwinter. If Hearne left the fort in spring, he could not +possibly reach the Arctic Circle till the following winter; and with +the North buried under drifts of snow, he could not learn where lay the +Northwest Passage. If he left the fort in winter in order to reach the +Arctic in summer, he must expose his guides to the risks of cold and +starvation. The Indians told of high, rocky barrens, across which no +canoes could be carried. They advised snow-shoe travel. Obtaining +three Chipewyans and two Crees as guides, and taking no white servants, +Hearne once more set out, on February 23, 1770, for the "Far-Away-Metal +River." This time there was no cannonading. The guns were buried +under snow-drifts twenty feet deep, and the snow-shoes of the +travellers glided over the fort walls to the echoing cheers of soldiers +and governor standing on the ramparts. The company travelled light, +depending on chance game for food. All wood that could be used for +fire lay hidden deep under snow. At wide intervals over the white +wastes mushroom cones of snow told where a stunted tree projected the +antlered branches of topmost bough through the depths of drift; but for +the most part camp was made by digging through the shallowest snow with +snow-shoes to the bottom of moss, which served the double purpose of +fuel for the night kettle and bed for travellers. In the hollow a +wigwam was erected, with the door to the south, away from the north +wind. Snared rabbits and partridges supplied the food. The way lay as +before--west-northwest--along a chain of frozen lakes and rivers +connecting Hudson Bay with the Arctic Ocean. By April the marchers +were on the margin of a desolate wilderness--the Indian region of +"Little Sticks,"--known to white men as the Barren Lands, where dwarf +trees project above the billowing wastes of snow like dismantled masts +on the far offing of a lonely sea. Game became scarcer. Neither the +round footprint of the hare nor the frost tracery of the northern +grouse marked the snowy reaches of unbroken white. Caribou had +retreated to the sheltered woods of the interior; and a cleverer hunter +than man had scoured the wide wastes of game. Only the wolf pack +roamed the Barren Lands. It was unsafe to go on without food. Hearne +kept in camp till the coming of the goose month--April--when birds of +passage wended their way north. For three days rations consisted of +snow water and pipes of tobacco. The Indians endured the privations +with stoical indifference, daily marching out on a bootless quest for +game. On the third night Hearne was alone in his tent. Twilight +deepened to night, night to morning. Still no hunters returned. Had +he been deserted? Not a sound broke the waste silence but the baying +of the wolf pack. Weak from hunger, Hearne fell asleep. Before +daylight he was awakened by a shout; and his Indians shambled over the +drifts laden with haunches of half a dozen deer. That relieved want +till the coming of the geese. In May Hearne struck across the Barren +Lands. By June the rotting snow clogged the snow-shoes. Dog trains +drew heavy, and food was again scarce. For a week the travellers found +nothing to eat but cranberries. Half the company was ill from hunger +when a mangy old musk-ox, shedding his fur and lean as barrel hoops, +came scrambling over the rocks, sure of foot as a mountain goat. A +single shot brought him down. In spite of the musky odor of which the +coarse flesh reeked, every morsel of the ox was instantly devoured. +Sometimes during their long fasts they would encounter a solitary +Indian wandering over the rocky barren. If he had arms, gun, or arrow, +and carried skins of the chase, he was welcomed to camp, no matter how +scant the fare. Otherwise he was shunned as an outcast, never to be +touched or addressed by a human being; for only one thing could have +fed an Indian on the Barren Lands who could show no trophies of the +chase, and that was the flesh of some human creature weaker than +himself. The outcast was a cannibal, condemned by an unwritten law to +wander alone through the wastes. + +Snow had barely cleared from the Barren Lands when Hearne witnessed the +great traverse of the caribou herds, marching in countless multitudes +with a clicking of horns and hoofs from west to east for the summer. +Indians from all parts of the North had placed themselves at rivers +across the line of march to spear the caribou as they swam; and Hearne +was joined by a company of six hundred savages. Summer had dried the +moss. That gave abundance of fuel. Caribou were plentiful. That +supplied the hunters with pemmican. Hearne decided to pass the +following winter with the Indians; but he was one white man among +hundreds of savages. Nightly his ammunition was plundered. One of his +survey instruments was broken in a wind storm. Others were stolen. It +was useless to go on without instruments to take observations of the +Arctic Circle; so for a second time Hearne was compelled to turn back +to Fort Prince of Wales. Terrible storms impeded the return march. +His dog was frozen in the traces. Tent poles were used for fire-wood; +and the northern lights served as the only compass. On midday of +November 25, 1770, after eight months' absence, in which he had not +found the "Far-Off-Metal River," Hearne reached shelter inside the fort +walls. + +Beating through the gales of sleet and snow on the homeward march, +Hearne had careened into a majestic figure half shrouded by the storm. +The explorer halted before a fur-muffled form, six feet in its +moccasins, erect as a mast pole, haughty as a king; and the gauntleted +hand of the Indian chief went up to his forehead in sign of peace. It +was Matonabbee, the ambassador of the Hudson's Bay Company to the +Athabascans, now returning to Fort Prince of Wales, followed by a long +line of slave women driving their dog sleighs. The two travellers +hailed each other through the storm like ships at sea. That night they +camped together on the lee side of the dog sleighs, piled high as a +wind-break; and Matonabbee, the famous courser of the Northern wastes, +gave Hearne wise advice. Women should be taken on a long journey, the +Indian chief said; for travel must be swift through the deadly cold of +the barrens. Men must travel light of hand, trusting to chance game +for food. Women were needed to snare rabbits, catch partridges, bring +in game shot by the braves, and attend to the camping. And then in a +burst of enthusiasm, perhaps warmed by Hearne's fine tobacco, +Matonabbee, who had found the way to the Athabasca, offered to conduct +the white man to the "Far-Off-Metal River" of the Arctic Circle. The +chief was the greatest pathfinder of the Northern tribes. His offer +was the chance of a lifetime. Hearne could hardly restrain his +eagerness till he reached the fort. Leaving Matonabbee to follow with +the slave women, the explorer hurried to Fort Prince of Wales, laid the +plan before Governor Norton, and in less than two weeks from the day of +his return was ready to depart for the unknown river that was to lead +to the Northwest Passage. + +The weather was dazzlingly clear, with that burnished brightness of +polished steel known only where unbroken sunlight meets unbroken snow +glare. On the 7th of December, 1770, Hearne left the fort, led by +Matonabbee and followed by the slave Indians with the dog sleighs. One +of Matonabbee's wives lay ill; but that did not hinder the iron +pathfinder. The woman was wrapped in robes and drawn on a dog sleigh. +There was neither pause nor hesitation. If the woman recovered, good. +If she died, they would bury her under a cairn of stones as they +travelled. Matonabbee struck directly west-northwest for some _caches_ +of provisions which he had left hidden on the trail. The place was +found; but the _caches_ had been rifled clean of food. That did not +stop Matonabbee. Nor did he show the slightest symptoms of anger. He +simply hastened their pace the more for their hunger, recognizing the +unwritten law of the wilderness--that starving hunters who had rifled +the _cache_ had a right to food wherever they found it. Day after day, +stoical as men of bronze, the marchers reeled off the long white miles +over the snowy wastes, pausing only for night sleep with evening and +morning meals. Here nibbled twigs were found; there the stamping +ground of a deer shelter; elsewhere the small, cleft foot-mark like the +ace of hearts. But the signs were all old. No deer were seen. Even +the black marble eye that betrays the white hare on the snow, and the +fluffy bird track of the feather-footed northern grouse, grew rarer; +and the slave women came in every morning empty-handed from untouched +snares. In spite of hunger and cold, Matonabbee remained good-natured, +imperturbable, hard as a man of bronze, coursing with the winged speed +of snow-shoes from morning till night without pause, going to a bed of +rock moss on a meal of snow water and rising eager as an arrow to leave +the bow-string for the next day's march. For three days before +Christmas the entire company had no food but snow. Christmas was +celebrated by starvation. Hearne could not indulge in the despair of +the civilized man's self-pity when his faithful guides went on without +complaint. + +[Illustration: Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun.--C. W. +Mathers.] + +By January the company had entered the Barren Lands. The Barren Lands +were bare but for an occasional oasis of trees like an island of refuge +in a shelterless sea. In the clumps of dwarf shrubs, the Indians found +signs that meant relief from famine--tufts of hair rubbed off on tree +trunks, fallen antlers, and countless heart-shaped tracks barely +puncturing the snow but for the sharp outer edge. The caribou were on +their yearly traverse east to west for the shelter of the inland woods. +The Indians at once pitched camp. Scouts went scouring to find which +way the caribou herds were coming. Pounds of snares were constructed +of shrubs and saplings stuck up in palisades with scarecrows on the +pickets round a V-shaped enclosure. The best hunters took their +station at the angle of the V, armed with loaded muskets and long, +lank, and iron-pointed arrows. Women and children lined the palisades +to scare back high jumpers or strays of the caribou herd. Then scouts +and dogs beat up the rear of the fleeing herd, driving the caribou +straight for the pound. By a curious provision of nature, the male +caribou sheds its antlers just as he leaves the Barren Lands for the +wooded interior, where the horns would impede flight through brush, and +he only leaves the woods for the bare open when the horns are grown +enough to fight the annual battle to protect the herd from the wolf +pack ravenous with spring hunger. For one caribou caught in the pound +by Hearne's Indians, a hundred of the herd escaped; for the caribou +crossed the Barrens in tens of thousands, and Matonabbee's braves +obtained enough venison for the trip to the "Far-Off-Metal River." + +The farther north they travelled the scanter became the growth of pine +and poplar and willow. Snow still lay heavy in April; but Matonabbee +ordered a halt while there was still large enough wood to construct +dugouts to carry provisions down the river. The boats were built large +and heavy in front, light behind. This was to resist the ice jam of +Northern currents. The caribou hunt had brought other Indians to the +Barren Lands. Matonabbee was joined by two hundred warriors. Though +the tribes puffed the calumet of peace together, they drew their war +hatchets when they saw the smoke of an alien tribe's fire rise against +the northern sky. A suspicion that he hardly dared to acknowledge +flashed through Hearne's mind. Eleven thousand beaver pelts were +yearly brought down to the fort from the unknown river. How did the +Chipewyans obtain these pelts from the Eskimo? What was the real +reason of the Indian eagerness to conduct the white man to the +"Far-Off-Metal River"? The white man was not taken into the confidence +of the Indian council; but he could not fail to draw his own +conclusions. + +Scouts were sent cautiously forward to trail the path of the aliens who +had lighted the far moss fire. Women and children were ordered to head +about for a rendezvous southwest on Lake Athabasca. Carrying only the +lightest supplies, the braves set out swiftly for the North on June 1. +Mist and rain hung so heavily over the desolate moors that the +travellers could not see twenty feet ahead. In places the rocks were +glazed with ice and scored with runnels of water. Half the warriors +here lost heart and turned back. The others led by Hearne and +Matonabbee crossed the iced precipices on hands and knees, with gun +stocks strapped to backs or held in teeth. On the 21st of June the sun +did not set. Hearne had crossed the Arctic Circle. The sun hung on +the southern horizon all night long. Henceforth the travellers marched +without tents. During rain or snow storm, they took refuge under rocks +or in caves. Provisions turned mouldy with wet. The moss was too +soaked for fire. Snow fell so heavily in drifting storms that Hearne +often awakened in the morning to find himself almost immured in the +cave where they had sought shelter. Ice lay solid on the lakes in +July. Once, clambering up steep, bare heights, the travellers met a +herd of a hundred musk-oxen scrambling over the rocks with the agility +of squirrels, the spreading, agile hoof giving grip that lifted the +hulking forms over all obstacles. Down the bleak, bare heights there +poured cataract and mountain torrent, plainly leading to some near +river bed; but the thick gray fog lay on the land like a blanket. At +last a thunder-storm cleared the air; and Hearne saw bleak moors +sloping north, bare of all growth but the trunks of burnt trees, with +barren heights of rock and vast, desolate swamps, where the wild-fowl +flocked in myriads. + +[Illustration: Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago.] + +All count of day and night was now lost, for the sun did not set. +Sometime between midnight and morning of July 12, 1771, with the sun as +bright as noon, the lakes converged to a single river-bed a hundred +yards wide, narrowing to a waterfall that roared over the rocks in +three cataracts. This, then, was the "Far-Off-Metal River." Plainly, +it was a disappointing discovery, this Coppermine River. It did not +lead to China. It did not point the way to a Northwest Passage. In +his disappointment, Hearne learned what every other discoverer in North +America had learned--that the Great Northwest was something more than a +bridge between Europe and Asia, that it was a world in itself with its +own destiny.[1] + +But Hearne had no time to brood over disappointment. The conduct of +his rascally companions could no longer be misunderstood. Hunters came +in with game; but when the hungry slaves would have lighted a moss fire +to cook the meat, the forbidding hand of a chief went up. No fires +were to be lighted. The Indians advanced with whispers, dodging from +stone to stone like raiders in ambush. Spies went forward on tiptoe. +Then far down-stream below the cataracts Hearne descried the domed +tent-tops of an Eskimo band sound asleep; for it was midnight, though +the sun was at high noon. When Hearne looked back to his companions, +he found himself deserted. The Indians were already wading the river +for the west bank, where the Eskimo had camped. Hearne overtook his +guides stripping themselves of everything that might impede flight or +give hand-hold to an enemy, and daubing their skin with war-paint. +Hearne begged Matonabbee to restrain the murderous warriors. The great +chief smiled with silent contempt. He was too true a disciple of a +doctrine which Indians' practised hundreds of years before white men +had avowed it--the survival of the fit, the extermination of the weak, +for any qualms of pity towards a victim whose death would contribute +profit. Wearing only moccasins and bucklers of hardened hide, armed +with muskets, lances, and tomahawks, the Indians jostled Hearne out of +their way, stole forward from stone to stone to within a gun length of +the Eskimo, then with a wild war shout flung themselves on the +unsuspecting sleepers. + +The Eskimo were taken unprepared. They staggered from their tents, +still dazed in sleep, to be mowed down by a crashing of firearms which +they had never before heard. The poor creatures fled in frantic +terror, to be met only by lance point and gun butt. A young girl fell +coiling at Hearne's feet like a wounded snake. A well-aimed lance had +pinioned the living form to earth. She caught Hearne round the knees, +imploring him with dumb entreaty; but the white man was pushed back +with jeers. Sobbing with horror, Hearne begged the Indians to put +their victim out of pain. The rocks rang with the mockery of the +torturers. She was speared to death before Hearne's eyes. On that +scene of indescribable horror the white man could no longer bear to +look. He turned toward the river, and there was a spectacle like a +nightmare. Some of the Eskimo were escaping by leaping to their hide +boats and with lightning strokes of the double-bladed paddles dashing +down the current to the far bank of the river; but sitting motionless +as stone was an old, old woman--probably a witch of the tribe--red-eyed +as if she were blind, deaf to all the noise about her, unconscious of +all her danger, fishing for salmon below the falls. There was a shout +from the raiders; the old woman did not even look up to face her fate; +and she too fell a victim to that thirst for blood which is as +insatiable in the redskin as in the wolf pack. Odd commentary in our +modern philosophies--this white-man explorer, unnerved, unmanned, +weeping with pity, this champion of the weak, jostled aside by +bloodthirsty, triumphant savages, represented the race that was to +jostle the Indian from the face of the New World. Something more than +a triumphant, aggressive Strength was needed to the permanency of a +race; and that something more was represented by poor, weak, +vacillating Hearne, weeping like a woman. + +Horror of the massacre robbed Hearne of all an explorer's exultation. +A day afterward, on July 17, he stood on the shores of the Arctic +Ocean,--the first white man to reach it overland in America. Ice +extended from the mouth of the river as far as eye could see. Not a +sign of land broke the endless reaches of cold steel, where the snow +lay, and icy green, where pools of the ocean cast their reflection on +the sky of the far horizon. At one in the morning, with the sun +hanging above the river to the south, Hearne formally took possession +of the Arctic regions for the Hudson's Bay Company. The same Company +rules those regions to-day. Not an eye had been closed for three days +and nights. Throwing themselves down on the wet shore, the entire band +now slept for six hours. The hunters awakened to find a musk-ox nosing +over the mossed rocks. A shot sent it tumbling over the cliffs. +Whether it was that the moss was too wet for fuel to cook the meat, or +the massacre had brutalized the men into beasts of prey, the Indians +fell on the carcass and devoured it raw.[2] + +[Illustration: Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's Drawing, +1733-47.] + +The retreat from the Arctic was made with all swiftness, keeping close +to the Coppermine River. For thirty miles from the sea not a tree was +to be seen. The river was sinuous and narrow, hemmed in by walls of +solid rock, down which streamed cascades and mountain torrents. On +both sides of the high bank extended endless reaches of swamps and +barrens. Twenty miles from the sea Hearne found the copper mines from +which the Indians made their weapons. His guides were to join their +families in the Athabasca country of the southwest, and thither +Matonabbee now led the way at such a terrible pace that moccasins were +worn to shreds and toe-nails torn from the feet of the marchers; and +woe to the man who fell behind, for the wolf pack prowled on the rear. + +When the smoke of moss fires told of the wives' camp, the Indians +halted to take the sweat bath of purification for the cleansing of all +blood guilt from the massacre. Heated stones were thrown into a small +pool. In this each Indian bathed himself, invoking his deity for +freedom from all punishment for the deaths of the slain.[3] By August +the Indians had joined their wives. By October they were on Lake +Athabasca, which had already frozen. Here one of the wives, in the +last stages of consumption, could go no farther. For a band short of +food to halt on the march meant death to all. The Northern wilderness +has its grim unwritten law, inexorable and merciless as death. For +those who fall by the way there is no pity. A whole tribe may not be +exposed to death for the sake of one person. Civilized nations follow +the same principle in their quarantine. Giving the squaw food and a +tent, the Indians left her to meet her last enemy, whether death came +by starvation or cold or the wolf pack. Again and again the abandoned +squaw came up with the marchers, weeping and begging their pity, only +to fall from weakness. But the wilderness has no pity; and so they +left her. + +Christmas of 1771 was passed on Athabasca Lake, the northern lights +rustling overhead with the crackling of a flag. There was food in +plenty; for the Athabasca was rich in buffalo meadows and beaver dams +and moose yards. On the lake shore Hearne found a little cabin, in +which dwelt a solitary woman of the Dog Rib tribe who for eight months +had not seen a soul. Her band had been massacred. She alone escaped +and had lived here in hiding for almost a year. In spring the Indians +of the lake carried their furs to the forts of Hudson Bay. With the +Athabascans went Hearne, reaching Fort Prince of Wales on June 30, +1772, after eighteen months' absence. + +He had discovered Coppermine River, the Arctic Ocean, and the Athabasca +country,--a region in all as large as half European Russia. + +For his achievements Hearne received prompt promotion. Within a year +of his return to the fort, Governor Norton, the Indian bully, fell +deadly ill. In the agony of death throes, he called for his wives. +The great keys to the apartments of the women were taken from his +pillow, and the wives were brought in. Norton lay convulsed with pain. +One of the younger women began to sob. An officer of the garrison took +her hand to comfort her grief. Norton's rolling eyes caught sight of +the innocent conference between the officer and the young wife. With a +roar the dying bully hurled himself up in bed:-- + +"I'll burn you alive! I'll burn you alive," he shrieked. With oaths +on his lips he fell back dead. + +[Illustration: Fort Prince of Wales (Churchill), from Hearne's Account, +1799 Edition.] + +Samuel Hearne became governor of the fort. For ten years nothing +disturbed the calm of his rule. Marie, Norton's daughter, still lived +in the shelter of the fort; the wives found consolation in other +husbands; and Matonabbee continued the ambassador of the company to +strange tribes. One afternoon of August, 1782, the sleepy calm of the +fort was upset by the sentry dashing in breathlessly with news that +three great vessels of war with full-blown sails and carrying many guns +were ploughing straight for Prince of Wales. At sundown the ships +swung at anchor six miles from the fort. From their masts fluttered a +foreign flag--the French ensign. Gig boat and pinnace began sounding +the harbor. Hearne had less than forty men to defend the fort. In the +morning four hundred French troopers lined up on Churchill River, and +the admiral, La Perouse, sent a messenger with demand of surrender. +Hearne did not feel justified in exposing his men to the attack of +three warships carrying from seventy to a hundred guns apiece, and to +assault by land of four hundred troopers. He surrendered without a +blow. + +[Illustration: Beaver Coin of Hudson's Bay Company, melted from Old Tea +Chests, one Coin representing one Beaver.] + +The furs were quickly transferred to the French ships, and the soldiers +were turned loose to loot the fort. The Indians fled, among them Moses +Norton's gentle daughter, now in her twenty-second year. She could not +revert to the loathsome habits of savage life; she dared not go to the +fort filled with lawless foreign soldiers; and she perished of +starvation outside the walls. Matonabbee had been absent when the +French came. He returned to find the fort where he had spent his life +in ruins. The English whom he thought invincible were defeated and +prisoners of war. Hearne, whom the dauntless old chief had led through +untold perils, was a captive. Matonabbee's proud spirit was broken. +The grief was greater than he could bear. All that living stood for +had been lost. Drawing off from observation, Matonabbee blew his +brains out. + + +[1] I have purposely avoided bringing up the dispute as to a mistake of +some few degrees made by Hearne in his calculations--the point really +being finical. + +[2] I am sorry to say that in pioneer border warfares I have heard of +white men acting in a precisely similar beastly manner after some +brutal conflict. To be frank, I know of one case in the early days of +Minnesota fur trade, where the irate fur trader killed and devoured his +weak companion, not from famine, but sheer frenzy of brutalized +passion. Such naked light does wilderness life shed over our +drawing-room philosophies of the triumphantly strong being the highest +type of manhood. + +[3] Again the wilderness plunges us back to the primordial: if man be +but the supreme beast of prey, whence this consciousness of blood guilt +in these unschooled children of the wilds? + + + + +PART IV + +1780-1793 + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES--HOW MACKENZIE + CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES AND LEWIS + AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM + MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA + + + + +CHAPTER X + +1780-1793 + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES + +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the question of a +Northwest Passage + + +There is an old saying that if a man has the right mettle in him, you +may stick him a thousand leagues in the wilderness on a barren rock and +he will plant pennies and grow dollar bills. In other words, no matter +where or how, success will succeed. No class illustrates this better +than a type that has almost passed away--the old fur traders who were +lords of the wilderness. Cut off from all comfort, from all +encouragement, from all restraint, what set of men ever had fewer +incentives to go up, more temptations to go down? Yet from the fur +traders sprang the pioneer heroes of America. When young Donald Smith +came out--a raw lad--to America, he was packed off to eighteen years' +exile on the desert coast of Labrador. Donald Smith came out of the +wilderness to become the Lord Strathcona of to-day. Sir Alexander +Mackenzie's life presents even more dramatic contrasts. A clerk in a +counting-house at Montreal one year, the next finds him at Detroit +setting out for the backwoods of Michigan to barter with Indians for +furs. Then he is off with a fleet of canoes forty strong for the Upper +Country of forest and wilderness beyond the Great Lakes, where he +fights such a desperate battle with rivals that one of his companions +is murdered, a second lamed, a third wounded. In all this Alexander +Mackenzie was successful while still in the prime of his manhood,--not +more than thirty years of age; and the reward of his success was to be +exiled to the sub-arctics of the Athabasca, six weeks' travel from +another fur post,--not a likely field to play the hero. Yet Mackenzie +emerged from the polar wilderness bearing a name that ranks with +Columbus and Carrier and La Salle. + +[Illustration: Alexander Mackenzie, from a Painting of the Explorer.] + +Far north of the Missouri beyond the borderlands flows the +Saskatchewan. As far north again, beyond the Saskatchewan, flows +another great river, the Athabasca, into Athabasca Lake, on whose blue +shores to the north lies a little white-washed fort of some twenty log +houses, large barn-like stores, a Catholic chapel, an Episcopal +mission, and a biggish residence of pretence for the chief trader. +This is Fort Chipewyan. At certain seasons Indian tepees dot the +surrounding plains; and bronze-faced savages, clad in the ill-fitting +garments of white people, shamble about the stores, or sit haunched +round the shady sides of the log houses, smoking long-stemmed pipes. +These are the Chipewyans come in from their hunting-grounds; but for +the most part the fort seems chiefly populated by regiments of husky +dogs, shaggy-coated, with the sharp nose of the fox, which spend the +long winters in harness coasting the white wilderness, and pass the +summers basking lazily all day long except when the bell rings for fish +time, when half a hundred huskies scramble wildly for the first meat +thrown. + +A century ago Chipewyan was much the same as to-day, except that it lay +on the south side of the lake. Mails came only once in two years +instead of monthly, and rival traders were engaged in the merry game of +slitting each other's throats. All together, it wasn't exactly the +place for ambition to dream; but ambition was there in the person of +Alexander Mackenzie, the young fur trader, dreaming what he hardly +dared hope. Business men fight shy of dreamers; so Mackenzie told his +dreams to no one but his cousin Roderick, whom he pledged to secrecy. +For fifty years the British government had offered a reward of 20,000 +pounds to any one who should discover a Northwest Passage between the +Atlantic and the Pacific. The hope of such a passageway had led many +navigators on bootless voyages; and here was Mackenzie with the same +bee in his bonnet. To the north of Chipewyan he saw a mighty river, +more than a mile wide in places, walled in by great ramparts, and +flowing to unknown seas. To the west he saw another river rolling +through the far mountains. Where did this river come from, and where +did both rivers go? Mackenzie was not the man to leave vital questions +unanswered. He determined to find out; but difficulties lay in the +way. He couldn't leave the Athabascan posts. That was overcome by +getting his cousin Roderick to take charge. The Northwest Fur Company, +which had succeeded the French fur traders of Quebec and Montreal when +Canada passed from the hands of the French to the English, wouldn't +assume any cost or risk for exploring unknown seas. This was more +niggardly than the Hudson's Bay Company, which had paid all cost of +outlay for its explorers; but Mackenzie assumed risk and cost himself. +Then the Indians hesitated to act as guides; so Mackenzie hired guides +when he could, seized them by compulsion when he couldn't hire them, +and went ahead without guides when they escaped. + +[Illustration: Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for +the Value of Three Beaver Skins.] + +May--the frog moon--and June--the bird's egg moon--were the festive +seasons at Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabasca. Indian hunters came +tramping in from the Barren Lands with toboggan loads of pelts drawn by +half-wild husky dogs. Woody Crees and Slaves and Chipewyans paddled +across the lake in canoes laden to the gunwales with furs. A world of +white skin tepees sprang up like mushrooms round the fur post. By June +the traders had collected the furs, sorted and shipped them in +flotillas of keel boat, barge, and canoe, east to Lake Superior and +Montreal. On the evening of June 2, 1789, Alexander Mackenzie, chief +trader, had finished the year's trade and sent the furs to the Eastern +warehouses of the Northwest Company, on Lake Superior, at Fort William, +not far from where Radisson had first explored, and La Vérendrye +followed. Indians lingered round the fort of the Northern lake engaged +in mad _boissons_, or drinking matches, that used up a winter's +earnings in the spree of a single week. Along the shore lay upturned +canoes, keels red against the blue of the lake, and everywhere in the +dark burned the red fires of the boatmen melting resin to gum the seams +of the canoes; for the canoes were to be launched on a long voyage the +next day. Mackenzie was going to float down with the current of the +Athabasca or Grand River, and find out where that great river emptied +in the North. + +The crew must have spent the night in a last wild spree; for it was +nine in the morning before all hands were ready to embark. In +Mackenzie's large birch canoe went four Canadian _voyageurs_, their +Indian wives, and a German. In other canoes were the Indian hunters +and interpreters, led by "English Chief," who had often been to Hudson +Bay. Few provisions were taken. The men were to hunt, the women to +cook and keep the _voyageurs_ supplied with moccasins, which wore out +at the rate of one pair a day for each man. Traders bound for Slave +Lake followed behind. Only fifty miles were made the first day. +Henceforth Mackenzie embarked his men at three and four in the morning. + +[Illustration: Quill and Bead Work on Buckskin, Mackenzie River +Indians.] + +The mouth of Peace River was passed a mile broad as it pours down from +the west, and the boatmen _portaged_ six rapids the third day, one of +the canoes, steered by a squaw more intent on her sewing than the +paddles, going over the falls with a smash that shivered the bark to +kindling-wood. The woman escaped, as the current caught the canoe, by +leaping into the water and swimming ashore with the aid of a line. Ice +four feet thick clung to the walls of the rampart shores, and this +increased the danger of landing for a _portage_, the Indians whining +out their complaints in exactly the tone of the wailing north wind that +had cradled their lives--"Eduiy, eduiy!--It is hard, white man, it is +hard!" And harder the way became. For nine nights fog lay so heavily +on the river that not a star was seen. This was followed by driving +rain and wind. Mackenzie hoisted a three-foot sail and cut over the +water before the wind with the hiss of a boiling kettle. Though the +sail did the work of the paddles, it gave the _voyageurs_ no respite. +Cramped and rain-soaked, they had to bail out water to keep the canoe +afloat. In this fashion the boats entered Slave Lake, a large body of +water with one horn pointing west, the other east. Out of both horns +led unknown rivers. Which way should Mackenzie go? Low-lying +marshlands--beaver meadows where the wattled houses of the beaver had +stopped up the current of streams till moss overgrew the swamps and the +land became quaking muskeg--lay along the shores of the lake. There +were islands in deep water, where caribou had taken refuge, travelling +over ice in winter for the calves to be safe in summer from wolf pack +and bear. Mackenzie hired a guide from the Slave Indians to pilot the +canoes over the lake; but the man proved useless. Days were wasted +poking through mist and rushes trying to find an outlet to the Grand +River of the North. Finally, English Chief lost his temper and +threatened to kill the Slave Indian unless he succeeded in taking the +canoes out of the lake. The waters presently narrowed to half a mile; +the current began to race with a hiss; sails were hoisted on +fishing-poles; and Mackenzie found himself out of the rushes on the +Grand River to the west of Slave Lake. + +[Illustration: Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake +Superior.] + +Here pause was made at a camp of Dog Ribs, who took the bottom from the +courage of Mackenzie's comrades by gruesome predictions that old age +would come upon the _voyageurs_ before they reached salt water. There +were impassable falls ahead. The river flowed through a land of famine +peopled by a monstrous race of hostiles who massacred all Indians from +the South. The effect of these cheerful prophecies was that the Slave +Lake guide refused to go on. English Chief bodily put the recalcitrant +into a canoe and forced him ahead at the end of a paddle. Snow-capped +mountains loomed to the west. The river from Bear Lake was passed, +greenish of hue like the sea, and the Slave Lake guide now feigned such +illness that watch was kept day and night to prevent his escape. The +river now began to wind, with lofty ramparts on each side; and once, at +a sharp bend in the current, Mackenzie looked back to see Slave Lake +Indians following to aid the guide in escaping. After that one of the +white men slept with the fellow each night to prevent desertion; but +during the confusion of a terrific thunder-storm, when tents and +cooking utensils were hurled about their heads, the Slave succeeded in +giving his watchers the slip. Mackenzie promptly stopped at an +encampment of strange Indians, and failing to obtain another guide by +persuasion, seized and hoisted a protesting savage into the big canoe, +and signalled the unwilling captive to point the way. The Indians of +the river were indifferent, if not friendly; but once Mackenzie +discovered a band hiding their women and children as soon as the +boatmen came in view. The unwilling guide was forced ashore, as +interpreter, and gifts pacified all fear. But the incident left its +impression on Mackenzie's comrades. They had now been away from +Chipewyan for forty days. If it took much longer to go back, ice would +imprison them in the polar wilderness. Snow lay drifted in the +valleys, and scarcely any game was seen but fox and grouse. The river +was widening almost to the dimensions of a lake, and when this was +whipped by a north wind the canoes were in peril enough. The four +Canadians besought Mackenzie to return. To return Mackenzie had not +the slightest intention; but he would not tempt mutiny. He promised +that if he did not find the sea within seven days, he would go back. + +That night the sun hung so high above the southern horizon that the men +rose by mistake to embark at twelve o'clock. They did not realize that +they were in the region of midnight sun; but Mackenzie knew and +rejoiced, for he must be near the sea. The next day he was not +surprised to find a deserted Eskimo village. At that sight the +enthusiasm of the others took fire. They were keen to reach the sea, +and imagined that they smelt salt water. In spite of the lakelike +expanse of the river, the current was swift, and the canoes went ahead +at the rate of sixty and seventy miles a day--if it could be called day +when there was no night. Between the 13th and 14th of July the +_voyageurs_ suddenly awakened to find themselves and their baggage +floating in rising water. What had happened to the lake? Their hearts +took a leap; for it was no lake. It was the tide. They had found the +sea. + +How hilariously jubilant were Mackenzie's men, one may guess from the +fact that they chased whales all the next day in their canoes. The +whales dived below, fortunately; for one blow of a finback or sulphur +bottom would have played skittles with the canoes. Coming back from +the whale hunt, triumphant as if they had caught a dozen finbacks, the +men erected a post, engraving on it the date, July 14, 1789, and the +names of all present. + +It had taken six weeks to reach the Arctic. It took eight to return to +Chipewyan, for the course was against stream, in many places tracking +the canoes by a tow-line. The beaver meadows along the shore impeded +the march. Many a time the quaking moss gave way, and the men sank to +mid-waist in water. While skirting close ashore, Mackenzie discovered +the banks of the river to be on fire. The fire was a natural tar bed, +which the Indians said had been burning for centuries and which burns +to-day as when Mackenzie found it. On September 12, with a high sail +up and a driving wind, the canoes cut across Lake Athabasca and reached +the beach of Chipewyan at three in the afternoon, after one hundred and +two days' absence. Mackenzie had not found the Northwest Passage. He +had proved there was no Northwest Passage, and discovered the +Mississippi of the north--Mackenzie River. + +[Illustration: Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River.] + +Mackenzie spent the long winter at Fort Chipewyan; but just as soon as +the rivers cleared of ice, he took passage in the east-bound canoes and +hurried down to the Grand Portage or Fort William on Lake Superior, the +headquarters of the Northwest Company, where he reported his discovery +of Mackenzie River. His report was received with utter indifference. +The company had other matters to think about. It was girding itself +for the life-and-death struggle with its rival, the Hudson's Bay +Company. "My expedition was hardly spoken of, but that is what I +expected," he writes to his cousin. But chagrin did not deter purpose. +He asked the directors' permission to explore that other broad +stream--Peace River--rolling down from the mountains. His request was +granted. Winter saw him on furlough in England, studying astronomy and +surveying for the next expedition. Here he heard much of the Western +Sea--the Pacific--that fired his eagerness. The voyages of Cook and +Hanna and Meares were on everybody's lips. Spain and England and +Russia were each pushing for first possession of the northwest coast. +Mackenzie hurried back to his Company's fort on the banks of Peace +River, where he spent a restless winter waiting for navigation to open. +Doubts of his own ambitions began to trouble him. What if Peace River +did not lead to the west coast at all? What if he were behind some +other discoverer sent out by the Spaniards or the Russians? "I have +been so vexed of late that I cannot sit down to anything steadily," he +confesses in a letter to his cousin. Such a tissue-paper wall +separates the aims of the real hero from those of the fool, that almost +every ambitious man must pass through these periods of self-doubt +before reaching the goal of his hopes. But despondency did not benumb +Mackenzie into apathy, as it has weaker men. + +By April he had shipped the year's furs from the forks of Peace River +to Chipewyan. By May his season's work was done. He was ready to go +up Peace River. A birch canoe thirty feet long, lined with lightest of +cedar, was built. In this were stored pemmican and powder. Alexander +Mackay, a clerk of the company, was chosen as first assistant. Six +Canadian _voyageurs_--two of whom had accompanied Mackenzie to the +Arctic--and two Indian hunters made up the party of ten who stepped +into the canoes at seven in the evening of May 9, 1793. + +Peace River tore down from the mountains flooded with spring thaw. The +crew soon realized that paddles must be bent against the current of a +veritable mill-race; but it was safer going against, than with, such a +current, for unknown dangers could be seen from below instead of above, +where suction would whirl a canoe on the rocks. Keen air foretold the +nearing mountains. In less than a week snow-capped peaks had crowded +the canoe in a narrow cañon below a tumbling cascade where the river +was one wild sheet of tossing foam as far as eye could see. The +difficulty was to land; for precipices rose on each side in a wall, +down which rolled enormous boulders and land-slides of loose earth. To +_portage_ goods up these walls was impossible. Fastening an +eighty-foot tow-line to the bow, Mackenzie leaped to the declivity, axe +in hand, cut foothold along the face of the steep cliff to a place +where he could jump to level rock, and then, turning, signalled through +the roar of the rapids for his men to come on. The _voyageurs_ were +paralyzed with fear. They stripped themselves ready to swim if they +missed the jump, then one by one vaulted from foothold to foothold +where Mackenzie had cut till they came to the final jump across water. +Here Mackenzie caught each on his shoulders as the _voyageurs_ leaped. +The tow-line was then passed round trees growing on the edge of the +precipice, and the canoe tracked up the raging cascade. The waves +almost lashed the frail craft to pieces. Once a wave caught her +sideways; the tow-line snapped like a pistol shot, for just one instant +the canoe hung poised, and then the back-wash of an enormous boulder +drove her bow foremost ashore, where the _voyageurs_ regained the +tow-line. + +[Illustration: Slave Lake Indians.] + +The men had not bargained on this kind of work. They bluntly declared +that it was absurd trying to go up cañons with such cascades. +Mackenzie paid no heed to the murmurings. He got his crew to the top +of the hill, spread out the best of a regale--including tea sweetened +with sugar--and while the men were stimulating courage by a feast, he +went ahead to reconnoitre the gorge. Windfalls of enormous spruce +trees, with a thickness twice the height of a man, lay on a steep +declivity of sliding rock. Up this climbed Mackenzie, clothes torn to +tatters by devil's club (a thorn bush with spines like needles), boots +hacked to pieces by the sharp rocks, and feet gashed with cuts. The +prospect was not bright. As far as he could see the river was one +succession of cataracts fifty feet wide walled in by stupendous +precipices, down which rolled great boulders, shattering to pebbles as +they fell. The men were right. No canoe could go up that stream. +Mackenzie came back, set his men to repairing the canoe and making axe +handles, to avoid the idleness that breeds mutiny, and sent Mackay +ahead to see how far the rapids extended. Mackay reported that the +_portage_ would be nine miles over the mountain. + +Leading the way, axe in hand, Mackenzie began felling trees so that the +trunks formed an outer railing to prevent a fall down the precipice. +Up this trail they warped the canoe by pulling the tow-line round +stumps, five men going in advance to cut the way, five hauling and +pushing the canoe. In one day progress was three miles. By five in +the afternoon the men were so exhausted that they went to bed--if bare +ground with sky overhead could be called bed. One thing alone +encouraged them: as they rose higher up the mountain side, they saw +that the green edges of the glaciers and the eternal snows projected +over the precipices. They were nearing the summit--they must surely +soon cross the Divide. The air grew colder. For three days the +choppers worked in their blanket coats. When they finally got the +canoe down to the river-bed, it was to see another range of impassable +mountains barring the way westward. All that kept Mackenzie's men from +turning back was that awful _portage_ of nine miles. Nothing ahead +could be worse than what lay behind; so they embarked, following the +south branch where the river forked. The stream was swift as a +cascade. Half the crew walked to lighten the canoe and prevent grazing +on the rocky bottoms. + +Once, at dusk, when walkers and paddlers happened to have camped on +opposite shores, the marchers came dashing across stream, wading +neck-high, with news that they had heard the firearms of Indian +raiders. Fires were put out, muskets loaded, and each man took his +station at the foot of a tree, where all passed a sleepless night. No +hostiles appeared. The noise was probably falling avalanches. And +once when Mackenzie and Mackay had gone ahead with the Indian +interpreters, they came back to find that the canoe had disappeared. +In vain they kindled fires, fired guns, set branches adrift on the +swift current as a signal--no response came from the _voyageurs_. The +boatmen evidently did not wish to be found. What Mackenzie's +suspicions were one may guess. It would be easier for the crew to +float back down Peace River than pull against this terrific current +with more _portages_ over mountains. The Indians became so alarmed +that they wanted to build a raft forthwith and float back to Chipewyan. +The abandoned party had not tasted a bite of food for twenty-four +hours. They had not even seen a grouse, and in their powder horns were +only a few rounds of ammunition. Separating, Mackenzie and his Indian +went up-stream, Mackay and his went down-stream, each agreeing to +signal the other by gunshots if either found the canoe. Barefooted and +drenched in a terrific thunderstorm, Mackenzie wandered on till +darkness shrouded the forest. He had just lain down on a soaking couch +of spruce boughs when the ricochetting echo of a gun set the boulders +crashing down the precipices. Hurrying down-stream, he found Mackay at +the canoe. The crew pretended that a leakage about the keel had caused +delay; but the canoe did not substantiate the excuse. Mackenzie said +nothing; but he never again allowed the crew out of his sight on the +east side of the mountains. + +So far there had been no sign of Indians among the mountains; and now +the canoe was gliding along calm waters when savages suddenly sprang +out of a thicket, brandishing spears. The crew became panic-stricken; +but Mackenzie stepped fearlessly ashore, offered the hostiles presents, +shook hands, and made his camp with them. The savages told him that he +was nearing a _portage_ across the Divide. One of them went with +Mackenzie the next day as guide. The river narrowed to a small +tarn--the source of Peace River; and a short _portage_ over rocky +ground brought the canoe to a second tarn emptying into a river that, +to Mackenzie's disappointment, did not flow west, but south. He had +crossed the Divide, the first white man to cross the continent in the +North; but how could he know whether to follow this stream? It might +lead east to the Saskatchewan. As a matter of fact, he was on the +sources of the Fraser, that winds for countless leagues south through +the mountains before turning westward for the Pacific. + +Full of doubt and misgivings, uncertain whether he had crossed the +Divide at all, Mackenzie ordered the canoe down this river. Snowy +peaks were on every side. Glaciers lay along the mountain tarns, icy +green from the silt of the glacier grinding over rock; and the river +was hemmed in by shadowy cañons with roaring cascades that compelled +frequent _portage_. Mackenzie wanted to walk ahead, in order to +lighten the canoe and look out for danger; but fear had got in the +marrow of his men. They thought that he was trying to avoid risks to +which he was exposing them; and they compelled him to embark, vowing, +if they were to perish, he was to perish with them. + +To quiet their fears, Mackenzie embarked with them. Barely had they +pushed out when the canoe was caught by a sucking undercurrent which +the paddlers could not stem--a terrific rip told them that the canoe +had struck--the rapids whirled her sideways and away she went +down-stream--the men jumped out, but the current carried them to such +deep water that they were clinging to the gunwales as best they could +when, with another rip, the stern was torn clean out of the canoe. The +blow sent her swirling--another rock battered the bow out--the keel +flattened like a raft held together only by the bars. Branches hung +overhead. The bowman made a frantic grab at these to stop the rush of +the canoe--he was hoisted clear from his seat and dropped ashore. +Mackenzie jumped out up to his waist in ice-water. The steersman had +yelled for each to save himself; but Mackenzie shouted out a +countermand for every man to hold on to the gunwales. In this fashion +they were all dragged several hundred yards till a whirl sent the wreck +into a shallow eddy. The men got their feet on bottom, and the +wreckage was hauled ashore. During the entire crisis the Indians sat +on top of the canoe, howling with terror. + +All the bullets had been lost. A few were recovered. Powder was +spread out to dry; and the men flatly refused to go one foot farther. +Mackenzie listened to the revolt without a word. He got their clothes +dry and their benumbed limbs warmed over a roaring fire. He fed them +till their spirits had risen. Then he quietly remarked that the +experience would teach them how to run rapids in the future. Men of +the North--to turn back? Such a thing had never been known in the +history of the Northwest Fur Company. It would disgrace them forever. +Think of the honor of conquering disaster. Then he vowed that he would +go ahead, whether the men accompanied him or not. Then he set them to +patching the canoe with oil-cloth and bits of bark; but large sheets of +birch bark are rare in the Rockies; and the patched canoe weighed so +heavily that the men could scarcely carry it. It took them fourteen +hours to make the three-mile _portage_ of these rapids. The Indian +from the mountain tribe had lost heart. Mackenzie and Mackay watched +him by turns at night; but the fellow got away under cover of darkness, +the crew conniving at the escape in order to compel Mackenzie to turn +back. Finally the river wound into a large stream on the west side of +the main range of the Rockies. Mackenzie had crossed the Divide. + +For a week after crossing the Divide, the canoe followed the course of +the river southward. This was not what Mackenzie expected. He sought +a stream flowing directly westward, and was keenly alert for sign of +Indian encampment where he might learn the shortest way to the Western +Sea. Once the smoke of a camp-fire rose through the bordering forest; +but no sooner had Mackenzie's interpreters approached than the savages +fired volley after volley of arrows and swiftly decamped, leaving no +trace of a trail. There was nothing to do but continue down the +devious course of the uncertain river. The current was swift and the +outlook cut off by the towering mountains; but in a bend of the river +they came on an Indian canoe drawn ashore. A savage was just emerging +from a side stream when Mackenzie's men came in view. With a wild +whoop, the fellow made off for the woods; and in a trice the narrow +river was lined with naked warriors, brandishing spears and displaying +the most outrageous hostility. When Mackenzie attempted to land, +arrows hissed past the canoe, which they might have punctured and sunk. +Determined to learn the way westward from these Indians, Mackenzie +tried strategy. He ordered his men to float some distance from the +savages. Then he landed alone on the shore opposite the hostiles, +having sent one of his interpreters by a detour through the woods to +lie in ambush with fusee ready for instant action. Throwing aside +weapons, Mackenzie displayed tempting trinkets. The warriors +conferred, hesitated, jumped in the canoes, and came, backing stern +foremost, toward Mackenzie. He threw out presents. They came ashore +and were presently sitting by his side. + +From them he learned the river he was following ran for "many moons" +through the "shining mountains" before it reached the "midday sun." It +was barred by fearful rapids; but by retracing the way back up the +river, the white men could leave the canoe at a carrying place and go +overland to the salt water in eleven days. From other tribes down the +same river, Mackenzie gathered similar facts. He knew that the stream +was misleading him; but a retrograde movement up such a current would +discourage his men. He had only one month's provisions left. His +ammunition had dwindled to one hundred and fifty bullets and thirty +pounds of shot. Instead of folding his hands in despondency, Mackenzie +resolved to set the future at defiance and go on. From the Indians he +obtained promise of a man to guide him back. Then he frankly laid all +the difficulties before his followers, declaring that he was going on +alone and they need not continue unless they voluntarily decided to do +so. His dogged courage was contagious. The speech was received with +huzzas, and the canoe was headed upstream. + +The Indian guide was to join Mackenzie higher upstream; but the +reappearance of the white men when they had said they would not be back +for "many moons" roused the suspicions of the savages. The shores were +lined with warriors who would receive no explanation that Mackenzie +tried to give in sign language. The canoe began to leak so badly that +the boatmen had to spend half the time bailing out water; and the +_voyageurs_ dared not venture ashore for resin. Along the river cliff +was a little three-cornered hut of thatched clay. Here Mackenzie took +refuge, awaiting the return of the savage who had promised to act as +guide. The three walls protected the rear, but the front of the hut +was exposed to the warriors across the river; and the whites dared not +kindle a fire that might serve as a target. Two nights were passed in +this hazardous shelter, Mackay and Mackenzie alternately lying in their +cloaks on the wet rocks, keeping watch. At midnight of the third day's +siege, a rustling came from the woods to the rear and the boatmen's dog +set up a furious barking. The men were so frightened that they three +times loaded the canoe to desert their leader, but something in the +fearless confidence of the explorer deterred them. As daylight sifted +through the forest, Mackenzie descried a vague object creeping through +the underbrush. A less fearless man would have fired and lost all. +Mackenzie dashed out to find the cause of alarm an old blind man, +almost in convulsions from fear. He had been driven from this river +hut. Mackenzie quieted his terror with food. By signs the old man +explained that the Indians had suspected treachery when the whites +returned so soon; and by signs Mackenzie requested him to guide the +canoe back up the river to the carrying place; but the old creature +went off in such a palsy of fear that he had to be lifted bodily into +the canoe. The situation was saved. The hostiles could not fire +without wounding one of their own people; and the old man could explain +the real reason for Mackenzie's return. Rations had been reduced to +two meals a day. The men were still sulking from the perils of the +siege when the canoe struck a stump that knocked a hole in the keel, +"which," reports Mackenzie, laconically, "gave them all an opportunity +to let loose their discontent without reserve." Camp after camp they +passed, which the old man's explanations pacified, till they at length +came to the carrying place. Here, to the surprise and delight of all, +the guide awaited them. + +[Illustration: Good Hope, Mackenzie River. Hudson's Bay Company Fort.] + +On July 4, provisions were _cached_, the canoe abandoned, and a start +made overland westward, each carrying ninety pounds of provisions +besides musket and pistols. And this burden was borne on the rations +of two scant meals a day. The way was ridgy, steep, and obstructed by +windfalls. At cloud-line, the rocks were slippery as glass from +moisture, and Mackenzie led the way, beating the drip from the branches +as they marched. The record was twelve miles the first day. When it +rained, the shelter was a piece of oil-cloth held up in an extemporized +tent, the men crouching to sleep as best they could. The way was well +beaten and camp was frequently made for the night with strange Indians, +from whom fresh guides were hired; but when he did not camp with the +natives, Mackenzie watched his guide by sleeping with him. Though the +fellow was malodorous from fish oil and infested with vermin, Mackenzie +would spread his cloak in such a way that escape was impossible without +awakening himself. No sentry was kept at night. All hands were too +deadly tired from the day's climb. Once, in the impenetrable gloom of +the midnight forest, Mackenzie was awakened by a plaintive chant in a +kind of unearthly music. A tribe was engaged in religious devotions to +some woodland deity. Totem poles of cedar, carved with the heads of +animals emblematic of family clans, told Mackenzie that he was nearing +the coast tribes. Barefooted, with ankles swollen and clothes torn to +shreds, they had crossed the last range of mountains within two weeks +of leaving the inland river. They now embarked with some natives for +the sea. + +One can guess how Mackenzie's heart thrilled as they swept down the +swift river--six miles an hour--past fishing weirs and Indian camps, +till at last, far out between the mountains, he descried the narrow arm +of the blue, limitless sea. The canoe leaked like a sieve; but what +did that matter? At eight o'clock on the morning of Saturday, July 20, +the river carried them to a wide lagoon, lapped by a tide, with the +seaweed waving for miles along the shore. Morning fog still lay on the +far-billowing ocean. Sea otters tumbled over the slimy rocks with +discordant cries. Gulls darted overhead; and past the canoe dived the +great floundering grampus. There was no mistaking. This was the +sea--the Western Sea, that for three hundred years had baffled all +search overland, and led the world's greatest explorers on a chase of a +will-o'-the-wisp. What Cartier and La Salle and La Vérendrye failed to +do, Mackenzie had accomplished. + +But Mackenzie's position was not to be envied. Ten starving men on a +barbarous coast had exactly twenty pounds of pemmican, fifteen of rice, +six of flour. Of ammunition there was scarcely any. Between home and +their leaky canoe lay half a continent of wilderness and mountains. +The next day was spent coasting the cove for a place to take +observations. Canoes of savages met the white men, and one impudent +fellow kept whining out that he had once been shot at by men of +Mackenzie's color. Mackenzie took refuge for the night on an isolated +rock which was barely large enough for his party to gain a foothold. +The savages hung about pestering the boatmen for gifts. Two white men +kept guard, while the rest slept. On Monday, when Mackenzie was +setting up his instruments, his young Indian guide came, foaming at the +mouth from terror, with news that the coast tribes were to attack the +white men by hurling spears at the unsheltered rock. The boatmen lost +their heads and were for instant flight, anywhere, everywhere, in a +leaky canoe that would have foundered a mile out at sea. Mackenzie did +not stir, but ordered fusees primed and the canoe gummed. Mixing up a +pot of vermilion, he painted in large letters on the face of the rock +where they had passed the night:-- + +"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, +one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." + +The canoe was then headed eastward for the homeward trip. Only once +was the explorer in great danger on his return. It was just as the +canoe was leaving tide-water for the river. The young Indian guide led +him full tilt into the village of hostiles that had besieged the rock. +Mackenzie was alone, his men following with the baggage. Barely had he +reached the woods when two savages sprang out, with daggers in hand +ready to strike. Quick as a flash, Mackenzie quietly raised his gun. +They dropped back; but he was surrounded by a horde led by the impudent +chief of the attack on the rock the first night on the sea. One +warrior grasped Mackenzie from behind. In the scuffle hat and cloak +came off; but Mackenzie shook himself free, got his sword out, and +succeeded in holding the shouting rabble at bay till his men came. +Then such was his rage at the indignity that he ordered his followers +in line with loaded fusees, marched to the village, demanded the return +of the hat and cloak, and obtained a peace-offering of fish as well. +The Indians knew the power of firearms, and fell at his feet in +contrition. Mackenzie named this camp Rascal Village. + +At another time his men lost heart so completely over the difficulties +ahead that they threw everything they were carrying into the river. +Mackenzie patiently sat on a stone till they had recovered from their +panic. Then he reasoned and coaxed and dragooned them into the spirit +of courage that at last brought them safely over mountain and through +cañon to Peace River. On August 24, a sharp bend in the river showed +them the little home fort which they had left four months before. The +joy of the _voyageurs_ fairly exploded. They beat their paddles on the +canoe, fired off all the ammunition that remained, waved flags, and set +the cliffs ringing with shouts. + +Mackenzie spent the following winter at Chipewyan, despondent and +lonely. "What a situation, starving and alone!" he writes to his +cousin. The hard life was beginning to wear down the dauntless spirit. +"I spend the greater part of my time in vague speculations. . . . In +fact my mind was never at ease, nor could I bend it to my wishes. +Though I am not superstitious, my dreams cause me great annoyance. I +scarcely close my eyes without finding myself in company with the dead." + +The following winter Mackenzie left the West never to return. The +story of his travels was published early in the nineteenth century, and +he was knighted by the English king. The remainder of his life was +spent quietly on an estate in Scotland, where he died in 1820. + +[Illustration: The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight +Sun.--C. W. Mathers.] + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +1803-1806 + +LEWIS AND CLARK + +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend the +Columbia to the Pacific--Exciting Adventures on the Cañons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone--Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles + + +The spring of 1904 witnessed the centennial celebration of an area as +large as half the kingdoms of Europe, that has the unique distinction of +having transferred its allegiance to three different flags within +twenty-four hours. + +At the opening of the nineteenth century Spain had ceded all the region +vaguely known as Louisiana back to France, and France had sold the +territory, to the United States; but post-horse and stage of those old +days travelled slowly. News of Spain's cession and France's sale reached +Louisiana almost simultaneously. On March 9, 1804, the Spanish grandees +of St. Louis took down their flag and, to the delight of Louisiana, for +form's sake erected French colors. On March 10, the French flag was +lowered for the emblem that has floated over the Great West ever +since--the stars and stripes. How vast was the new territory acquired, +the eastern states had not the slightest conception. As early as 1792 +Captain Gray, of the ship _Columbia_, from Boston, had blundered into the +harbor of a vast river flowing into the Pacific. What lay between this +river and that other great river on the eastern side of the +mountains--the Missouri? Jefferson had arranged with John Ledyard of +Connecticut, who had been with Captain Cook on the Pacific, to explore +the northwest coast of America by crossing Russia overland; but Russia +had similar designs for herself, and stopped Ledyard on the way. In 1803 +President Jefferson asked Congress for an appropriation to explore the +Northwest by way of the Missouri. Now that the wealth of the West is +beyond the estimate of any figure, it seems almost inconceivable that +there were people little-minded enough to haggle over the price paid for +Louisiana--$15,000,000--and to object to the appropriation required for +its exploration--$2500; but fortunately the world goes ahead in spite of +hagglers. + +May of 1804 saw Captain Meriwether Lewis, formerly secretary to President +Jefferson, and Captain William Clark of Virginia launch out from Wood +River opposite St. Louis, where they had kept their men encamped all +winter on the east side of the Mississippi, waiting until the formal +transfer of Louisiana for the long journey of exploration to the sources +of the Missouri and the Columbia. Their escort consisted of twenty +soldiers, eleven _voyageurs_, and nine frontiersmen. The main craft was +a keel boat fifty-five feet long, of light draft, with square-rigged sail +and twenty-two oars, and tow-line fastened to the mast pole to track the +boat upstream through rapids. An American flag floated from the prow, +and behind the flag the universal types of progress everywhere--goods for +trade and a swivel-gun. Horses were led alongshore for hunting, and two +pirogues--sharp at prow, broad at stern, like a flat-iron or a +turtle--glided to the fore of the keel boat. + +[Illustration: Captain Meriwether Lewis.] + +The Missouri was at flood tide, turbid with crumbling clay banks and +great trees torn out by the roots, from which keel boat and pirogues +sheered safely off. For the first time in history the Missouri resounded +to the Fourth of July guns; and round camp-fire the men danced to the +strains of a _voyageur's_ fiddle. Usually, among forty men is one +traitor, and Liberte must desert on pretence of running back for a knife; +but perhaps the fellow took fright from the wild yarns told by the +lonely-eyed, shaggy-browed, ragged trappers who came floating down the +Platte, down the Osage, down the Missouri, with canoe loads of furs for +St. Louis. These men foregathered with the _voyageurs_ and told only too +true stories of the dangers ahead. Fires kindled on the banks of the +river called neighboring Indians to council. Council Bluffs commemorates +one conference, of which there were many with Iowas and Omahas and +Ricarees and Sioux. Pause was made on the south side of the Missouri to +visit the high mound where Blackbird, chief of the Omahas, was buried +astride his war horse that his spirit might forever watch the French +_voyageurs_ passing up and down the river. + +[Illustration: Captain William Clark.] + +By October the explorers were sixteen hundred miles north of St. Louis, +at the Mandan villages near where Bismarck stands to-day. The Mandans +welcomed the white men; but the neighboring tribes of Ricarees were +insolent. "Had I these white warriors on the upper plains," boasted a +chief to Charles Mackenzie, one of the Northwest Fur Company men from +Canada, "my young men on horseback would finish them as they would so +many wolves; for there are only two sensible men among them, the worker +of iron [blacksmith] and the mender of guns." Four Canadian traders had +already been massacred by this chief. Captain Lewis knew that his +company must winter on the east side of the mountains, and there were a +dozen traders--Hudson Bay and Nor'westers--on the ground practising all +the unscrupulous tricks of rivals, Nor'westers driving off Hudson Bay +horses, Hudson Bay men driving off Nor'-westers', to defeat trade; so +Captain Lewis at once had a fort constructed. It was triangular in +shape, the two converging walls consisting of barracks with a loopholed +bastion at the apex, the base being a high wall of strong pickets where +sentry kept constant guard. Hitherto Captain Lewis had been able to +secure the services of French trappers as interpreters with the Indians; +but the next year he was going where there were no trappers; and now he +luckily engaged an old Nor'wester, Chaboneau, whose Indian wife, +Sacajawea, was a captive from the Snake tribe of the Rockies.[1] On +Christmas morning, the stars and stripes were hoisted above Fort Mandan; +and all that night the men danced hilariously. On New Years of 1805, the +white men visited the Mandan lodges, and one _voyageur_ danced "on his +head" to the uproarious applause of the savages. All winter the men +joined in the buffalo hunts, laying up store of pemmican. In February, +work was begun on the small boats for the ascent of the Missouri. By the +end of March, the river had cleared of ice, and a dozen men were sent +back to St. Louis. + +At five, in the afternoon of April 7, six canoes and two pirogues were +pushed out on the Missouri. Sails were hoisted; a cheer from the +Canadian traders and Indians standing on the shore--and the boats glided +up the Missouri with flags flying from foremost prow. Hitherto Lewis and +Clark had passed over travelled ground. Now they had set sail for the +Unknown. Within a week they had passed the Little Missouri, the height +of land that divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the +Saskatchewan, and the great Yellowstone River, first found by wandering +French trappers and now for the first time explored. The current of the +Missouri grew swifter, the banks steeper, and the use of the tow-line +more frequent. The voyage was no more the holiday trip that it had been +all the way from St. Louis. Hunters were kept on the banks to forage for +game, and once four of them came so suddenly on an open-mouthed, +ferocious old bear that he had turned hunter and they hunted before guns +could be loaded; and the men saved themselves only by jumping twenty feet +over the bank into the river. + +For miles the boats had to be tracked up-stream by the tow-line. The +shore was so steep that it offered no foothold. Men and stones slithered +heterogeneously down the sliding gravel into the water. Moccasins wore +out faster than they could be sewed; and the men's feet were cut by +prickly-pear and rock as if by knives. On Sunday, May 26, when Captain +Lewis was marching to lighten the canoes, he had just climbed to the +summit of a high, broken cliff when there burst on his glad eyes a first +glimpse of the far, white "Shining Mountains" of which the Indians told, +the Rockies, snowy and dazzling in the morning sun. One can guess how +the weather-bronzed, ragged man paused to gaze on the glimmering summits. +Only one other explorer had ever been so far west in this region--young +De la Vérendrye, fifty years before; but the Frenchman had been compelled +to turn back without crossing the mountains, and the two Americans were +to assail and conquer what had proved an impassable barrier. The +Missouri had become too deep for poles, too swift for paddles; and the +banks were so precipitous that the men were often poised at dizzy heights +above the river, dragging the tow-line round the edge of rock and crumbly +cliff. Captain Lewis was leading the way one day, crawling along the +face of a rock wall, when he slipped. Only a quick thrust of his +spontoon into the cliff saved him from falling almost a hundred feet. He +had just struck it with terrific force into the rock, where it gave him +firm handhold, when he heard a voice cry, "Good God, Captain, what shall +I do?" + +[Illustration: Tracking Up-stream.] + +Windsor, a frontiersman, had slipped to the very verge of the rock, where +he lay face down with right arm and leg completely over the precipice, +his left hand vainly grabbing empty air for grip of anything that would +hold him back. Captain Lewis was horrified, but kept his presence of +mind; for the man's life hung by a thread. A move, a turn, the slightest +start of alarm to disturb Windsor's balance--and he was lost. Steadying +his voice, Captain Lewis shouted back, "You're in little danger. Stick +your knife in the cliff to hoist yourself up." + +With the leverage of the knife, Windsor succeeded in lifting himself back +to the narrow ledge. Then taking off his moccasins, he crawled along the +cliff to broader foothold. Lewis sent word for the crews to wade the +margin of the river instead of attempting this pass--which they did, +though shore water was breast high and ice cold. + +[Illustration: Typical Mountain Trapper.] + +The Missouri had now become so narrow that it was hard to tell which was +the main river and which a tributary; so Captain Lewis and four men went +in advance to find the true course. Leaving camp at sunrise, Captain +Lewis was crossing a high, bare plain, when he heard the most musical of +all wilderness sounds--the far rushing that is the voice of many waters. +Far above the prairie there shimmered in the morning sun a gigantic plume +of spray. Surely this was the Great Falls of which the Indians told. +Lewis and his men broke into a run across the open for seven miles, the +rush of waters increasing to a deafening roar, the plume of spray to +clouds of foam. Cliffs two hundred feet high shut off the view. Down +these scrambled Lewis, not daring to look away from his feet till safely +at bottom, when he faced about to see the river compressed by sheer +cliffs over which hurled a white cataract in one smooth sheet eighty feet +high. The spray tossed up in a thousand bizarre shapes of wind-driven +clouds. Captain Lewis drew the long sigh of the thing accomplished. He +had found the Great Falls of the Missouri. + +[Illustration: The Discovery of the Great Falls.] + +Seating himself on the rock, he awaited his hunters. That night they +camped under a tree near the falls. Morning showed that the river was +one succession of falls and rapids for eighteen miles. Here was indeed a +stoppage to the progress of the boats. Sending back word to Captain +Clark of the discovery of the falls, Lewis had ascended the course of the +cascades to a high hill when he suddenly encountered a herd of a thousand +buffalo. It was near supper-time. Quick as thought, Lewis fired. What +was his amazement to see a huge bear leap from the furze to pounce on the +wounded quarry; and what was Bruin's amazement to see the unusual +spectacle of a thing as small as a man marching out to contest possession +of that quarry? Man and bear reared up to look at each other. Bear had +been master in these regions from time immemorial. Man or beast--which +was to be master now? Lewis had aimed his weapon to fire again, when he +recollected that it was not loaded; and the bear was coming on too fast +for time to recharge. Captain Lewis was a brave man and a dignified man; +but the plain was bare of tree or brush, and the only safety was +inglorious flight. But if he had to retreat, the captain determined that +he _would_ retreat only at a walk. The rip of tearing claws sounded from +behind, and Lewis looked over his shoulder to see the bear at a hulking +gallop, open-mouthed,--and off they went, explorer and exploited, in a +sprinting match of eighty yards, when the grunting roar of pursuer told +pursued that the bear was gaining. Turning short, Lewis plunged into the +river to mid-waist and faced about with his spontoon at the bear's nose. +A sudden turn is an old trick with all Indian hunters; the bear +floundered back on his haunches, reconsidered the sport of hunting this +new animal, man, and whirled right about for the dead buffalo. + +[Illustration: Fighting a Grizzly.] + +It took the crews from the 15th to the 25th of June to _portage_ past the +Great Falls. Cottonwood trees yielded carriage wheels two feet in +diameter, and the masts of the pirogues made axletrees. On these +wagonettes the canoes were dragged across the _portage_. It was hard, +hot work. Grizzlies prowled round the camp at night, wakening the +exhausted workers. The men actually fell asleep on their feet as they +toiled, and spent half the night double-soling their torn moccasins, for +the cactus already had most of the men limping from festered feet. Yet +not one word of complaint was uttered; and once, when the men were camped +on a green along the _portage_, a _voyageur_ got out his fiddle, and the +sore feet danced, which was more wholesome than moping or poulticing. +The boldness of the grizzlies was now explained. Antelope and buffalo +were carried over the falls. The bears prowled below for the carrion. + +After failure to construct good hide boats, two other craft, twenty-five +and thirty-three feet long, were knocked together, and the crews launched +above the rapids for the far Shining Mountains that lured like a +mariner's beacon. Night and day, when the sun was hot, came the +boom-boom as of artillery from the mountains. The _voyageurs_ thought +this the explosion of stones, but soon learned to recognize the sound of +avalanche and land-slide. The river became narrower, deeper, swifter, as +the explorers approached the mountains. For five miles rocks rose on +each side twelve hundred feet high, sheer as a wall. Into this shadowy +cañon, silent as death, crept the boats of the white men, vainly +straining their eyes for glimpse of egress from the watery defile. A +word, a laugh, the snatch of a _voyageur's_ ditty, came back with elfin +echo, as if spirits hung above the dizzy heights spying on the intruders. +Springs and tenuous, wind-blown falls like water threads trickled down +each side of the lofty rocks. The water was so deep that poles did not +touch bottom, and there was not the width of a foot-hold between water +and wall for camping ground. Flags were unfurled from the prows of the +boats to warn marauding Indians on the height above that the _voyageurs_ +were white men, not enemies. Darkness fell on the cañon with the great +hushed silence of the mountains; and still the boats must go on and on in +the darkness, for there was no anchorage. Finally, above a small island +in the middle of the river, was found a tiny camping ground with +pine-drift enough for fire-wood. Here they landed in the pitchy dark. +They had entered the Gates of the Rockies on the 19th of July. In the +morning bighorn and mountain goat were seen scrambling along the ledges +above the water. On the 25th the Three Forks of the Missouri were +reached. Here the Indian woman, Sacajawea, recognized the ground and +practically became the guide of the party, advising the two explorers to +follow the south fork or the Jefferson, as that was the stream which her +tribe followed when crossing the mountains to the plains. + +[Illustration: Packer carrying Goods across Portage.] + +It now became absolutely necessary to find mountain Indians who would +supply horses and guide the white men across the Divide. In the hope of +finding the Indian trail, Captain Lewis landed with two men and preceded +the boats. He had not gone five miles when to his sheer delight he saw a +Snake Indian on horseback. Ordering his men to keep back, he advanced +within a mile of the horseman and three times spread his blanket on the +ground as a signal of friendship. The horseman sat motionless as bronze. +Captain Lewis went forward, with trinkets held out to tempt a parley, and +was within a few hundred yards when the savage wheeled and dashed off. +Lewis' men had disobeyed orders and frightened the fellow by advancing. +Deeply chagrined, Lewis hoisted an American flag as sign of friendship +and continued his march. Tracks of horses were followed across a bog, +along what was plainly an Indian road, till the sources of the Missouri +became so narrow that one of the men put a foot on each side and thanked +God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. Stooping, all drank from +the crystal spring whose waters they had traced for three thousand miles +from St. Louis. Following a steep declivity, they were presently +crossing the course of a stream that flowed west and must lead to some +branch of the Columbia. + +[Illustration: Spying on an Enemy's Fort.] + +Suddenly, on the cliff in front, Captain Lewis discovered two squaws, an +Indian, and some dogs. Unfurling his flag, he advanced. The Indians +paused, then dashed for the woods. Lewis tried to tie some presents +round the dogs' necks as a peace-offering, but the curs made off after +their master. The white men had not proceeded a mile before they came to +three squaws, who never moved but bowed their heads to the ground for the +expected blow that would make them captives. Throwing down weapons, +Lewis pulled up his sleeve to show that he was white. Presents allayed +all fear, and the squaws had led him two miles toward their camp when +sixty warriors came galloping at full speed with arrows levelled. The +squaws rushed forward, vociferating and showing their presents. Three +chiefs at once dismounted, and fell on Captain Lewis with such greasy +embraces of welcome that he was glad to end the ceremony. Pipes were +smoked, presents distributed, and the white men conducted to a great +leathern lodge, where Lewis announced his mission and prepared the +Indians for the coming of the main force in the boats. + +[Illustration: Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies.] + +The Snakes scarcely knew whether to believe the white man's tale. The +Indian camp was short of provisions, and Lewis urged the warriors to come +back up the trail to meet the advancing boats. The braves hesitated. +Cameahwait, the chief, harangued till a dozen warriors mounted their +horses and set out, Lewis and his men each riding behind an Indian. +Captain Clark could advance only slowly, and the Indians with Lewis grew +suspicious as they entered the rocky denies without meeting the +explorers' party. Half the Snakes turned back. Among those that went on +were three women. To demonstrate good faith, Lewis again mounted a horse +behind an Indian, though the bare-back riding over rough ground at a mad +pace was almost jolting his bones apart. A spy came back breathless with +news for the hungry warriors that one of the white hunters had killed a +deer, and the whole company lashed to a breakneck gallop that nearly +finished Lewis, who could only cling for dear life to the Indian's waist. +The poor wretches were so ravenous that they fell on the dead deer and +devoured it raw. It was here that Lewis expected the boats. They were +not to be seen. The Indians grew more distrustful. The chief at once +put fur collars, after the fashion of Indian dress, round the white men's +shoulders. As this was plainly a trick to conceal the whites in case of +treachery on their part, Lewis at once took off his hat and placed it on +the chief's head. Then he hurried the Indians along, lest they should +lose courage completely. To his mortification, Captain Clark did not +appear. To revive the Indians' courage, the white men then passed their +guns across to the Snakes, signalling willingness to suffer death if the +Indians discovered treachery. That night all the Indians hid in the +woods but five, who slept on guard round the whites. If anything had +stopped Clark's advance, Lewis was lost. Though neither knew it, Lewis +and Clark were only four miles apart, Clark, Chaboneau, the guide, and +Sacajawea, the Indian woman, were walking on the shore early in the +morning, when the squaw began to dance with signs of the most extravagant +joy. Looking ahead, Clark saw one of Lewis' men, disguised as an Indian, +leading a company of Snake warriors that the squaw had recognized as her +own people, from whom she had been wrested when a child. The Indians +broke into songs of delight, and Sacajawea, dashing through the crowd, +threw her arms round an Indian woman, sobbing and laughing and exhibiting +all the hysterical delight of a demented creature. Sacajawea and the +woman had been playmates in childhood and had been captured in the same +war; but the Snake woman had escaped, while Sacajawea became a slave and +married the French guide. + +Meanwhile, Captain Clark was being welcomed by Lewis and the chief, +Cameahwait. Sacajawea was called to interpret. Cameahwait rose to +speak. The poor squaw flung herself on him with cries of delight. In +the chief of the Snakes she had recognized her brother. Laced coats, +medals, flags, and trinkets were presented to the Snakes; but though +willing enough to act as guides, the Indians discouraged the explorers +about going on in boats. The western stream was broken for leagues by +terrible rapids walled in with impassable precipices. Boats were +abandoned and horses bought from the Snakes. The white men set their +faces northwestward, the southern trail, usually followed by the Snakes, +leading too much in the direction of the Spanish settlements. Game grew +so scarce that by September the men were without food and a colt was +killed for meat. + +By October the company was reduced to a diet of dog; but the last Divide +had been crossed. Horses were left with an Indian chief of the +Flatheads, and the explorers glided down the Clearwater, leading to the +Columbia, in five canoes and one pilot boat. Great was the joy in camp +on November 8, 1805; for the boats had passed the last _portage_ of the +Columbia. When heavy fog rose, there burst on the eager gaze of the +_voyageurs_ the shining expanse of the Pacific. The shouts of the +jubilant _voyageurs_ mingled with the roar of ocean breakers. Like +Alexander Mackenzie of the far North a decade before, Lewis and Clark had +reached the long-sought Western Sea. They had been first up the +Missouri, first across the middle Rockies, and first down the Columbia to +the Pacific. + +Seven huts, known as Fort Clatsop, were knocked up on the south side of +the Columbia's harbor for winter quarters; and a wretched winter the +little fort spent, beleaguered not by hostiles, but by such inclement +damp that all the men were ill before spring and their very leather suits +rotted from their backs. Many a time, coasting the sea, were they +benighted. Spreading mats on the sand, they slept in the drenching rain. +Unused to ocean waters, the inland voyageurs became deadly seasick. +Once, when all were encamped on the shore, an enormous tidal wave broke +over the camp with a smashing of log-drift that almost crushed the boats. +Nez Perces and Flatheads had assisted the white men after the Snake +guides had turned back. Clatsops and Chinooks were now their neighbors. +Christmas and New Year of 1806 were celebrated by a discharge of +firearms. No boats chanced to touch at the Columbia during the winter. +The time was passed laying up store of elk meat and leather; for the +company was not only starving, but nearly naked. The Pacific had been +reached on November 14, 1805. Fort Clatsop was evacuated on the +afternoon of March 23, 1806. + +The goods left to trade for food and horses when Lewis and Clark departed +from the coast inland had dwindled to what could have been tied in two +handkerchiefs; but necessity proved the mother of invention, and the men +cut the brass buttons from their tattered clothes and vended brass +trinkets to the Indians. The medicine-chest was also sacrificed, every +Indian tribe besieging the two captains for eye-water, fly-blisters, and +other patent wares. The poverty of the white man roused the insolence of +the natives on the return over the mountains. Rocks were rolled down on +the boatmen at the worst _portages_ by aggressive Indians; and once, when +the hungry _voyageurs_ were at a meal of dog meat, an Indian impudently +flung a live pup straight at Captain Lewis' plate. In a trice the pup +was back in the fellow's face; Lewis had seized a weapon; and the +crestfallen aggressor had taken ignominiously to his heels. When they +had crossed the mountains, the forces divided into three parties, two to +go east by the Yellowstone, one under Lewis by the main Missouri. + +Somewhere up the height of land that divides the southern waters of the +Saskatchewan from the northern waters of the Missouri, the tracks of +Minnetaree warriors were found. These were the most murderous raiders of +the plains. Over a swell of the prairie Lewis was startled to see a band +of thirty horses, half of them saddled. The Indians were plainly on the +war-path, for no women were in camp; so Lewis took out his flag and +advanced unfalteringly. An Indian came forward. Lewis and the chief +shook hands, but Lewis now had no presents to pacify hostiles. Camping +with the Minnetarees for the night, as if he feared nothing, Lewis +nevertheless took good care to keep close watch on all movements. He +smoked the pipe of peace with them as late as he dared; and when he +retired to sleep, he had ordered Fields and the other two white men to be +on guard. At sunrise the Indians crowded round the fire, where Fields +had for the moment carelessly laid his rifle. Simultaneously, the +warriors dashed at the weapons of the sleeping white men, while other +Indians made off with the explorers' horses. With a shout, Fields gave +the alarm, and pursuing the thieves, grappled with the Indian who had +stolen his rifle. In the scuffle the Indian was stabbed to the heart. +Drewyer succeeded in wresting back his gun, and Lewis dashed out with his +pistol, shouting for the Indians to leave the horses. The raiders were +mounting to go off at full speed. The white men pursued on foot. Twelve +horses fell behind; but just as the Indians dashed for hiding behind a +cliff, Lewis' strength gave out. He warned them if they did not stop he +would shoot. An Indian turned to fire with one of the stolen weapons, +and instantly Lewis' pistol rang true. The fellow rolled to earth +mortally wounded; but Lewis felt the whiz of a bullet past his own head. +Having captured more horses than they had lost, the white men at once +mounted and rode for their lives through river and slough, sixty miles +without halt; for the Minnetarees would assuredly rally a larger band of +warriors to their aid. A pause of an hour to refresh the horses and a +wilder ride by moonlight put forty more miles between Captain Lewis and +danger. At daylight the men were so sore from the mad pace for +twenty-four hours that they could scarcely stand; but safety depended on +speed and on they went again till they reached the main Missouri, where +by singularly good luck some of the other _voyageurs_ had arrived. + +[Illustration: On Guard.] + +The entire forces were reunited below the Yellowstone on August 12th. +Traders on the way up the Missouri from St. Louis brought first news of +the outer world, and the discoverers were not a little amused to learn +that they had been given up for dead. At the Mandans, Colter, one of the +frontiersmen, asked leave to go back to the wilds; and Chaboneau, with +his dauntless wife, bade the white men farewell. On September 20th +settlers on the river bank above St. Louis were surprised to see thirty +ragged men, with faces bronzed like leather, passing down the river. +Then some one remembered who these worn _voyageurs_ were, and cheers of +welcome made the cliffs of the Missouri ring. On September 23d, at +midday, the boats drew quietly up to the river front of St. Louis. Lewis +and Clark, the greatest pathfinders of the United States, had returned +from the discovery of a new world as large as half Europe, without losing +a single man but Sergeant Floyd, who had died from natural causes a few +months after leaving St. Louis. What Radisson had begun in 1659-1660, +what De la Vérendrye had attempted when he found the way barred by the +Rockies--was completed by Lewis and Clark in 1805. It was the last act +in that drama of heroes who carved empire out of wilderness; and all +alike possessed the same hero-qualities--courage and endurance that were +indomitable, the strength that is generated in life-and-death grapple +with naked primordial reality, and that reckless daring which defies life +and death. Those were hero-days; and they produced hero-types, who flung +themselves against the impossible--and conquered it. What they conquered +we have inherited. It is the Great Northwest. + +[Illustration: Indians of the Up-country or _Pays d'en Haut_.] + + + +[1] Mention of this man is to be found in Northwest Company manuscripts, +lately sold in the Masson collection of documents to the Canadian +Archives and McGill College Library. It was also my good fortune--while +this book was going to print--to see the entire family collection of +Clark's letters, owned by Mrs. Julia Clark Voorhis of New York. Among +these letters is one to Chaboneau from Clark. In spite of the cordial +relations between the Nor'westers and Lewis and Clark, these fur traders +cannot conceal their fear that this trip presages the end of the fur +trade. + + + + +APPENDIX + + +For the very excellent translations of the almost untranslatable +transcripts taken from the Marine Archives of Paris, and forwarded to +me by the Canadian Archives, I am indebted to Mr. R. Roy, of the Marine +Department, Ottawa, the eminent authority on French Canadian +genealogical matters. + +Some of the topics in the Appendices are of such a controversial +nature--the whereabouts of the Mascoutins, for instance--that at my +request Mr. Roy made the translation absolutely literal no matter how +incongruous the wording. To those who say Radisson was not on the +Missouri I commend Appendix E, where the tribes of the West are +described. + + + + +APPENDIX A + +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN TO M. COMPORTÉ BY M. CHOUART, + AT LONDON, THE 29TH APRIL, 1685 + +SIR, + +I have received the two letters with which you have honored me; I have +even received one inclosed that I have not given, for reasons that I +will tell you, God willing, in a few days. + +I have received your instructions contained in the one and the other, +as to the way I should act, and I should not have failed to execute all +that you order me for the service of our Master, if I had been at full +liberty so to do; you must have no doubt about it, because my +inclination and my duty agree perfectly well. All the advantages that +I am offered did not for a moment cause me to waver, but, in short, +sir, I could not go to Paris, and I shall be happy to go and meet you +by the route you travel. I shall be well pleased to find landed the +people you state will be there; in case they may have the commission +you speak of in your two letters, have it accompanied if you please +with a memorandum of what I shall have to do for the service of our +Master. I know of a case whereby I am sufficiently taught that it is +not safe to undertake too many things, however advantageous they may +be, nor undertaking too little. I am convinced, sir, that having +orders, I will carry them out at the risk of my life, and I flatter +myself that you do not doubt it. + +There is much likelihood that the men you sent last year are lost. + +I should like, sir, to be at the place you desire me to go; be assured +I will perish, or be there as soon as I possibly can; it is saying +enough. I do not answer to the rest of your letter, it is sufficient +that I am addressing a sensible man, who, knowing my heart, will not +doubt that I will keep my word with him, as I believe he will do all he +can for my interests. + +I am, with much anxiety to see you, sir, your most humble and most +obedient servant, + +(signed) CHOUART. + +I will leave here only on the 25th of next month. + + + + +APPENDIX B + +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN BY M. CHOUART TO + MRS. DES GROSEILLERS, HIS MOTHER + +AT LONDON, 11TH APRIL, 1685. + +MY VERY DEAR MOTHER, + +I learn by the letter you have written me, of the 2nd November last, +that my father has returned from France without obtaining anything at +that Court, which made you think of leaving Quebec; my sentiment would +be that you abandon this idea as I am strongly determined to go and be +by you at the first opportunity I get, which shall be, God willing, as +soon as I have taken means to that effect when I have returned from the +North. + +I hope to start on this voyage in a month or six weeks at the latest; I +cannot determine on what date I could be near you; my father may know +what difficulties there are. However, I hope to surmount them, and +there is nothing I would not do to that end. + +The money I left with my cousin is intended to buy you a house, as I +have had always in mind to do, had not my father opposed it, but now I +will do it so as to give you a chance to get on, and always see you in +the country where I will live. + +I have been made, here, proposals of marriage, to which I have not +listened, not being here under the rule of my king nor near my parents, +and I would have left this kingdom had I been given the liberty to do +so, but they hold back on me my pay and the price of my merchandise, +and I cannot sail away as orders have been given to arrest me in case I +should prepare to leave. + +What you fear in reference to my money should not give you any +uneasiness on account of the English. I will cause it to be pretty +well known that I never intended to follow the English. I have been +surprised and forced by my uncle's subterfuges to risk this voyage +being unable to escape the English vessels where my uncle made me go +without disclosing his plan, which he has worked out in bringing me +here, but I will not disclose mine either: to abandon this nation. I +am willing that my cousin should pay you the income on my money, until +I return home. M. the earl of Denonville, your governor, will see to +my mother's affairs, as they who render service to the country will not +be forsaken as in the past, and being generous as he is, loyal and +zealous for his country, he will inform the Court what there is to be +done for the benefit of our nation. + +I am, my dear mother, to my father and to you, + +most obedient servant, + (signed) CHOUART. + +And below is written:-- + +MOTHER, + +I pray you to see on my behalf M. du Lude, and assure him of my very +humble services. I will have the honor of seeing him as soon as I can. +Please do the same with M. Peray and all our good friends. + + + + +APPENDIX C + +COUNCIL + +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, 8th June, 1704. + +By the indians Kiskacous, Ottawa, Sinagot of the Sable Nation, Hurons, +Saulteurs (Sault Indians), Amikoique (Amikoués), Mississaugas, +Nipissings, Miamis and Wolves, in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post; Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +_voyageurs_. + +The one named FORTY SOLS, (40 half-penny), indian chief of the Huron +nation speaks as much on behalf of the said nation as of all those +present at the meeting. + +The French having come, he said:-- + +"We ask that all the French be present at this Council so that they +hear and know what we will say to you. + +"We are well on this land, it is very good, and we are much pleased +with it; listen well, father, we pray you. + +"Mrs de Tonty went away last year; she did not return; we see you going +away to-day, father, with your wife, your children and all the +Frenchwomen as well as that of M. Radisson, who is going down with you; +that reveals to us that you abandon us. + +"We are angry for good and ill-disposed if the women go away. We pray +you to pay attention to this because we could not stop you nor your +young men: we demand that Radisson remains, or at least, that he +returns promptly." + + +BY A NECKLACE (Wampum) + +"We will escort your wife and the other Frenchwomen who intend to go +down to Montreal. Now, mind well what we are asking you. + +"We readily see that the Governor is a liar, as he does not keep to +what he has promised us; as he has lied to us we will lie to him also, +and we will listen no more to his word. + +"What brings that man here (speaking of M. Desnoyers)? We do not know +him and do not understand him; we are ill-disposed. It is two years +since you have been gathering in our peltries, part of which has been +taken down; we will allow nothing to leave until the French come up +with goods." + + +BY ANOTHER NECKLACE + +"Father, we pray you to send back that man (speaking of M. Desnoyers), +because if he remains here, we do not answer for his safety; our people +have told us that he despises our peltries and only wanted beaver; +where does he want us to get it. We absolutely want him to go; nothing +will leave the house where the trading is done and where the peltries +and bundles are, until the French arrive here with merchandise and they +be allowed to trade. When we came here, the Governor did not tell us +that the merchants would be masters over the merchandise; he lied to +us; we ask that all the Frenchmen trade here; we pray you to write and +tell him what we are saying, and if he does not listen to us, we will +also refuse to accept his word. + +"The land is not yours, it is ours, and we will leave it to go where we +like without anybody finding fault. We regret having allowed the +surgeon to leave as we apprehend he will not come back. + +"We pray you will cause to remain Gauvereau the blacksmith and gunsmith. + +"I have nothing more to say, I have spoken for all the nations here +present." + +M. de Lamothe had a question put to the Ottawa and the other nations, +if that was their sentiment; they all answered: Yes, and that they were +of one and the same mind. He told them that, seeing they had taken +time to think over what they had just said, he would consider as to +what he had to answer them, and, put them off to the morrow, after +having accepted their necklace. + +(Not signed.) + + +COUNCIL + +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, the 9th June, 1704. + +By the Indians Kiskacous; Ottawas; Sinagotres, the Sable nation; +Hurons; Sauteux (Sault Ste Marie Indians); Amikoique (Beaver nation); +Mississaugas; Miamis and Wolves in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post, Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +_voyageurs_. + +M. de Lamothe addressed all the said nations:-- + +"As you requested me to pay attention to your words, please listen, the +same, to-day. + +"I was aware that Mdme. de Tonty's trip to Montreal last year had given +you umbrage, because she did not come back; and the cause of it is her +pregnancy. + +"I knew also that my wife's setting out for Montreal as also the other +Frenchwomen was causing you uneasiness, because you believed I was +going to abandon you. It is true she was going away, but it was not +for ever. I showed her your necklace; that her children would miss her +very much and that they begged of her to stay. When she heard of your +grief, she accepted your necklace and she will stay for some time, +because she does not like to refuse her children; the other Frenchwomen +will remain also. + +"You spoke ill of the Governor when you said he was a liar. If anyone +told you that he was forsaking you, I will be pleased if you will tell +me who it is. As for me I have no knowledge of it. + +"M. Desnoyers was present when you offered your necklace, and like me +he heard your statement. He told me you were wrong to complain about +him because he would not take your peltries and that he wanted beaver +only; you are complaining inopportunely seeing that he has not done any +trading. You should tell me who made those reports. But as you are +not glad to see him, he has decided to go back, and as I am going down +to Montreal on good business, he will accompany me, and also M. +Radisson, because the Governor wants him, and he must obey, and we will +arrange so that we come back together. + +"You have asked me to write down your speech to the Governor. I will +be the bearer of it. I have not the authority to have the French to +trade here; it is a matter that M. the Governor will settle with M. the +Intendant. + +"The Governor did not lie to you because he did not notify you the +first year, that the merchants would be masters of the merchandise, +because it was the King who sent it here then and I could dispose of +it; since then, an order came from the King in favor of the merchants. + +"This land is mine, because I am the first one who lighted a fire +thereon, and you all took some to light yours. + +"I am very glad that you like this land, and that you find it is good. + +"It is of no consequence that the surgeon left, because when one goes +another comes, and the same applies for the gunsmith. + +"I have no more to tell you. Here is some tobacco that you may all +smoke together, and that it may give you wisdom until I return and the +Governor sends you his word. Attend to your mother during my absence, +and see that she does not want for provisions, for if you do not take +care of her, on my return I will not give you a drink of brandy. + +"M. de Tonty replaces me; I pray you to be on good terms with him." + +FORTY SOLS, chief of the Hurons, spoke for all the indians:-- + +"We remember well, father, of what we said yesterday because you repeat +it to-day. We thank you for having listened to us and granted all we +asked you. We thank the women for not going away, because their +remaining is as if you remained. From to-morrow we will stimulate our +young men to go after provisions for our mother. + +"It is three years ago, when in Montreal at the general meeting our +chiefs died, the governor told us to have courage, that he was sorry +for us, that he saw we were very far to come and get goods in Montreal, +and he invited us to come and settle around you, and that he would send +us merchandise at the same price as in Montreal. This worked well for +two years, but goods rose up too much in price the third year. + +"The first year you came, we were very happy, but now we are naked, not +even having a bad shirt to put on our back. We would be pleased by the +establishment of several stores here, because if we were refused in +one, we could go to another. + +"We are very glad of M. Desnoyers' going back because we do not know +him and we fear some of our young men may be ill-disposed. + +"We were under the impression the Governor had sold us to the merchants +since they are the masters of the commerce. + +"It is true that we took of your fire to light ours but we have waited +two years without anything coming this way so that your land is ours. +I told the same thing to the Governor last year in Montreal. + +"Have courage, father, we will pray God for you during your voyage so +that you may bring back good news." + +(Not signed.) + + + + +APPENDIX D + +Cie des Indes + +(Indies Co'y) + +Renders account to the said company of the death of Mr. Radisson, +receiver at Montreal, of the nomination ad interim of Mr. Gamelin to +fill the vacancy of receiver, of account to render by Mr. Deplessis, +heir of Mr. Radisson to reëstablish price of summer beaver as before +ordinance of the 4th January, 1733. + +AT QUEBEC, THE 25TH OCTOBER, 1735. + +GENTLEMEN, + +I have received the letter you did me the honor to send me of the 9th +March last. + +M. Radisson, your receiver at Montreal, died there the 14th of June and +immediately M. Gamelin, merchant, to whom Messrs La Gorgendière and +Daine had given three years ago, had commissioned to look after your +interests in default or in case of death of M. Radisson, applied to M. +Michel, my sub-delegate to affix the seals on of all your effects, +which was done according to the account rendered you by Messrs. La +Gorgendière and Daine. + +It was necessary to fill the vacancy. I have appointed temporarily in +virtue of the authority, you gave, gentlemen, the same M. Gamelin; I +thought I could not have your interests in better hands, as much for +his honesty than his intelligence in regulating his sales and his +receipts. Independently of the knowledge he has of the different +qualities of beaver, I have had the honor to speak to you on this +subject in my preceding letters and to say that the only obstacle I +find to giving him the office of receiver at Montreal was his quality +of merchant outfitter for the upper country, which might render him +suspicious to you because of the returns he gets in beaver. Although I +have a pretty good opinion of him to believe his loyalty proof against +any particular interest, you shall see, gentlemen, by the copy of the +commission I have given him, which is sent you, that it is on condition +either directly or indirectly to do no traffic in the upper country, +and to confine himself either to marine trade or other inland commerce, +to which he has agreed, but nevertheless has represented to me that +being engaged as a partner with M. Lamarque, another merchant, for the +working out of the post named "the Western Sea" and that of the Sioux; +this partnership only terminating in 1737; that he was looking around +to sell his share, but, if this thing was impossible requesting me to +kindly allow him to continue until that term, past which he would cease +all commerce in the upper country. I agreed to this arrangement on +account of his good qualities, and this will not turn to any account of +consequence; whatever, selection you may make, gentlemen, you will not +find a better one in this country. + +M. de La Gorgendière having offered me his son to act as clerk to M. +Gamelin and comptroller in the Montreal office, for the auditing to be +made, without increasing on that score the expenditure of your +administration, I have consented on these conditions; M. Gamelin to +give him 800 livres (shillings) on the commission of one per cent the +company allow the receiver at Montreal, and M. Daine has assured me he +was satisfied with his work. + +I will not entertain, you, messieurs, with the discussion of the +account to be rendered by M. Duplessis, M. Radisson's heir, to your +agent, who claims he owes 5 to 6000 livres. Those discussions did not +take place in my presence. + +Most of the beaver shipped this year were put up in bundles, and +shortage in cotton cloth for packing prevented shipment of the whole. + +The disturbances which have occurred for some years in the upper +country have effectively prevented the Indians from hunting; the post +of the Bay which abounds ordinarily with beaver, produced nothing; +those of Detroit and Michilimakinac, only furnished very little. +Happily the post of the Sioux and of the Western Sea produced near to +100,000 which swelled up the receipt; otherwise it would have been very +middling. + +The party commanded by M. Desnoyelles against the Indians Sakis and +Foxes was not as successful as expected on account of the desertion and +retreat of 100 Hurons and Iroquois who left him when at the Kakanons +(Kiskanons of Michilimakinac?) without his being able to hold them, so +that this officer found himself after a long tramp at those Indians' +fort, not only inferior in numbers but also much in want of provisions. +He was under the necessity of returning after a rather sharp skirmish +which took place between some of his men and the enemy. We lost two +Frenchmen and one of our indians; the Foxes and Sakis lost 21 men, +either killed, wounded or captured. + +If the Sakis come back to the Bay, as they pledged themselves to M. +Desnoyelles we are in hopes here that peace will again flourish and +consequently the trade of the upper country. + +I have seen, gentlemen, what you were pleased to say as to reduction in +price on the summer-beaver. I had been assured by reliable persons +that this reduction might become very injurious to your commerce. I +have learned that some of this kind of beaver were carried to the +English who pay two livres (shillings) for one and at a higher price +than you pay over your counters. It was from what you wrote me in +1732, that the hatters could make no use of that beaver, that at your +request I published an ordinance of the 4th January, 1733, reducing the +price of summer-beaver either green (gras) or dry (sec) to ten pence a +pound, on condition that it should be burned. There could be nothing +suspicious in that. But since you now deem that that reduction may be +harmful, as I have also had in mind to invite the indians and even the +French under this pretence to take the good as well as the bad beaver +to the English; I will restore the price of the summer-beaver as it was +before my ordinance. I will not be at a loss for a cause: it is not in +your interest to give a lower price. You run your commerce, gentlemen, +with too much good faith to give rise to suspicion that you wished for +a reduction in price to 10 pence for this kind of beaver, and having it +burned only to procure it yourself at that price and not burn it. +Besides, the quantity received is too small a matter to deserve +consideration. + +[Sidenote: Beaver hats half worked made in the country.] + +M. the marquis de Beauharnois and I have received the orders of the +King with reference to beaver hats half worked made in Canada. His +Majesty has ordered us to break up the workmen's benches and to prevent +any manufacture of hats. We have made some representations on this +subject, to those made to us, namely by a man named ------, hatter, and +your receiver at Quebec. It is true that the making of beaver hats +half worked and other for export to France could turn out of +consequence in ruining your privilege and the hat establishments in +France. These are the only inconveniences, to my mind, to be feared, +as I do not look upon such, the making of hats for the use of residents +of the country. So that we have satisfied ourselves, until further +orders, to forbid the going, out of the colony, of all kind of hats, as +you will see by the ordinance we have published together, M. the +General and I. If we had been more strict, the three hatters +established in this colony, who know no other business than their +trade, the man ------ amongst others, who follow that calling from +father to son, would have been reduced to begging. + +The quantity of hats they will manufacture when export is stopped, +cannot be of any injury to the manufactures of the kingdom and be but +of small matter to your commerce. Moreover, I am aware that these +hatters employ the worst kind of beaver, which they get very cheap, and +your stores at Paris are that much rid of them. + +[Sidenote: Defects in list of cloth sent.] + +The cloths you sent this year are of better quality than the precedding +shipment. Messrs La Gorgendiere, Daine and Gamelin have observed on +defects which happen in the lists; they told me they would inform you. + +[Sidenote: Remittance of 300 livres (shillings) to the Baron de +Longueuil.] + +I have the honor to thank you, gentlemen, for the remittance of 300 +livres you were pleased to grant to M. the Baron of Longueuil, on my +recommendation. + +It is very difficult to prevent the Indians going to Chouaguen; the +brandy that the English give out freely is an invincible attraction. + +I have heard, the same as you, that some Frenchmen disguised as Indians +had been there; if I can discover some one, you may be sure that I will +deal promptly with them. You may have heard that the man LENOIR, +resident of Montreal, having gone to England three years ago without +leave, I have kept him in prison till he had settled the fine he was +condemned to pay, and which I transferred to the hospitals. I add that +a part of the interest you have in the Indians not going to Chouaguen, +I have another on account of the trading carried on for the benefit of +the King at Niagara and at fort Frontenac which that English post has +ruined. By all means you may rely on my attention to break up English +trade. I fear I may not succeed in this so long as the brandy traffic, +although moderate, will find adversaries among those who govern +consciences. + +[Sidenote: Foreign trade; Beaver at trade at Labrador.] + +I will do my best to prevent the beaver which is traded at Labrador and +the other posts in the lower part of the River to be smuggled to France +by ships from Bayonne, St Malo and Marseille. This will be difficult +as we cannot have at those posts any inspector. I will try, however, +to give an ordinance so as to prevent that, which may intimidate some +of those who carry on that commerce. + +It is true that the commandants of the upper country posts have relaxed +in the sending of the declarations made or to be made by the +_voyageurs_ as to the quantity and quality of the bundles of beaver +they take down to Montreal. M. the General and I have renewed the +necessary orders on this subject so that the commandants shall conform +to them. + +[Sidenote: Asks for continuation of gratuity received by Mr. Michel, +even to increase it.] + +M. Michel, my subdelegate at Montreal has received the bounty of 500 +livres you have requested your agent to pay to him; he hopes that you +will be pleased to have it continued next year. I have the honor to +pray you to do so, and even augment it, if possible. I can assure you, +gentlemen that he lends himself on all occasions to all that may +concern your commerce. As for myself, I am very flattered by the +opinion you entertain that I have at heart your interests. I always +feel a true satisfaction in renewing you these assurances. + +I am, respectfully, + + + +[Sidenote: Thanks for the coffee sent.] + +GENTLEMEN, M. de La Gorgendière has delivered to me on your behalf, a +bale of Moka coffee. I am very sensible, gentlemen, to this token of +friendship on your part. + +I have the honor to thank you, and to assure you that I am very truly +and respectfully, etc. + +(signed) HOCQUART. + + + + +APPENDIX E + +MEMORANDUM RE CANADA + +(No locality) 1697 + +All the discoveries in America were only made step by step and little +by little, especially those of lands held by the French in that part of +the North. + +It being certain that during the reign of king Francis I, several of +his subjects, amateurs of shipping and of discoveries, in imitation of +the Portuguese and the Spaniards, made the voyage, where they found the +great cod bank. The quality of birds frequenting this sea where they +always find food, caused them to heave the lead, and bottom was found +and the said great bank. + +He got an opinion on the nearest lands, and other curious persons +desired to go farther, and discovered Cape Breton, Virginia and +Florida. Some even inhabited and took possession of the divers places, +abandoned since, through misunderstanding of the commanders and their +poor skill in knowing how to keep on good terms with the indians of +those countries, who, good natured all at the beginning, could not +suffer the rigor with which it was wanted to subjugate them, so that +after a short occupation, they left to return to Europe. And since, +the Spaniards and the English successfully have taken possession of the +land and all the coasts that the said English have kept until this day +to much advantage, so that Frenchmen who have returned since have been +obliged to settle at Cape Breton and Acadia. + +About the year 1540, the said Cape Breton was fortified by Jacques +Carrier, captain of St Malo, who afterward entered the river St. +Lawrence up to 7 or 8 leagues above Quebec, where desiring to know +more, the season also being too far advanced he stopped off to winter +at a small river which bears his name and which forms the boundary of +M. de Becancourt's land whom he knew; he made sociable a number of +Indians who came aboard his ship and brought back beaver pretty +abundantly. + +Since, he made another voyage with Saintonge men which did not prevent +several other ships to go after the said beaver; men from Dieppe, +Brittany and La Rochelle, some with a passport and others by fraud and +piracy, especially the latter, the Civil war having carried away +persons out of dutifulness, the Admiralty and the Marine being then +held in very little consideration, which lasted a long time. + +However, I believe for having heard it said, that the lands after new +discoveries were given since to M. Chabot or to M. Ventadour, where a +certain gentleman from Saintonge named M. du Champlain, had very free +admittance and who may have mingled with those of his country who had +navigated with Carrier and had given him a longing to see that of which +he had only heard speak. + +He was a proper man for such a scheme; a great courage, wisdom, +sensible, pious, fair and of great experience; a robust body which +would render him indefatigable and capable to resist hunger, cold and +heat. + +This gentleman then solicited permission to come to Canada and obtained +it. His small estate and his friends supplied him with a medium sized +vessel for the passage. This new commandant or governor pitied much +the Indians and had the satisfaction at his arrival to see that he was +much feared and loved by them. He took memoranda through his +interpreter of their wars, their mode of living and of their interests. +At that time they were numerous and proud of the great advantages they +had over the Iroquois, their enemy. With this information he recrossed +to France; gave an account of his voyage, and was so charmed with the +land, the climate and of the good which would result from a permanent +establishment that he persuaded his wife to accompany him. His example +induced missionaries of St. François and some parisian families to +follow him. He was granted a commission or governor's provisions to +take his living from the country. + +He erected a palissade fort at the place now occupied by the fort St +Louis of Quebec. + +To please the indians he went with them and three Frenchmen only, +warring in the Iroquois country, which has no doubt given rise to our +quarrel with this nation. + +The Commerce was then in the hands of the Rochelois (?) who supplied +some provisions to the said M. de Champlain, a man without interest and +disposed to be content with little. + +He returns to France in the interests of the country and took back +Madam his wife who died in a Ursuline convent, at Saintes, I believe, +and he at Quebec, after having worked hard there, with little help +because of the misfortunes of France. + +M. the Cardinal of Richelieu have inspired France with confidence by +the humiliation of the Rochelois (?) wanted to take care of the marine +and formed at that time, about 1626 or 1627 what was then called the +"Society of One Hundred," in which joined persons of all +qualifications, and also merchants from Dieppe and Rouen. Dieppe was +then reputed for good navigators and for navigation. + +The said M. the Cardinal got granted to the said company the islands of +St Christophe, newly discovered and all the lands of Canada. The +Company composed of divers states did not take long to disjoin, and of +this great Company several were formed by themselves, the ones +concerning themselves about the Isles and the others about Canada, +where they were also divided up in a Company of Miscou, which is an +island of the Bay in the lower part of the River, where all the Indians +meet, and a Company of Tadoussac or Quebec. + +The Basques, Rochelois, Bretons, and Normans, who during the disorders +of the war had commenced secretly on the River, crossed their commerce +much by the continuation of their runs without passport. Sometimes on +pretext of cod or whale fishing, notwithstanding the interdiction of +decrees, the gain made them risk everything, as the two sides of the +river were all settled and many more came down from inland. + +Those Companies for being badly served on account of inexperience and +through poor economy, as will happen at the beginning of all affairs, +were put to large expenses. + +The English had already seized on Boston abandoned by the French after +their new discovery; beaver and elk peltry were much sought after and +at a very high price in Europe; they could be had for a needle, a +hawk-bell or a tin looking-glass, a marked copper coin. Our possession +was there very well-off. The English who made war to us in France, +also made it in Canada, and began to take the fleet about Isle Percée, +as it was ascending to Quebec. + +As four or five vessels came every year loaded with goods for the +Indians, it was at that time quantity of peas, plums, raisins, figs and +others and provisions for M. de Champlain; a garrison of 15 or 20 men; +a store in the lower town where the clerks of the Company lived with 10 +or 12 families already used to the country. This succor failing, much +hardship was endured in a country which then produced nothing by +itself, so that the English presenting themselves the next year with +their fleet, surrender was obligatory; the governor and the Recollets +crossed over to France and the families were treated honestly enough. + +Happily in 1628 or 1629, France made it up with England and the treaty +gave back Canada to the French, when M. de Champlain, returned and died +some years later. + +Those of the Company of 100, who were persons of dignity and +consideration, living in Paris, thought fit to leave the care and +benefits of commerce for Canada with the Rouen and Dieppe merchants, +with whom joined a few from Paris. They were charged with the payment +of the governor's appointments, to furnish him with provisions and +subsistence and to keep up the garrisons of Quebec and Three-Rivers +where there was also a post on account of the large number of Indians +calling; to furnish the things necessary for the war; to pay themselves +off the product and give account of the surplus to the directors of the +Company who had an office at Paris. + +It has been said that Dieppe and Rouen benefitted and that Paris +suffered and was disgusted. + +To M. de Champlain succeeded M. de Montmagny, very wise and very +dignified; knight of Malta; relative of M. de Poinsy, who commanded at +the Island of St Christophe where the said M. de Montmagny died after +leaving Canada after a sojourn of 14 or 15 years, loved and cherished +by the French and the natives--we say the French, although the +complaints made against him by the principals were the cause of his +sorrow and he resigned voluntarily. + +It is to be remarked that all the commerce was done at Rouen to go out +through Dieppe on the hearsay and the fine connections that the Jesuit +Fathers who had taken the Recollets' place, took great care to have +printed and distributed every year. + +Canada was in vogue and several families from Normandy and the Perche +took sail to come and reside in it; there were nobles, the most of them +poor, we might say, who found out from the first, that M. de Montmagny +was too disinterested to be willing to consider the change they desired +for their advantage. They intrigued against him five or six families +without the participation of the others, got leave from him to go to +France to ask for favors and there had one of themselves as governor; +obtained liberty in the beaver trade, which until then had been +strictly forbidden to the inhabitants who had been reserved the fruits +of the country to advance the culture of the land such as pease, Indian +corn, and wheat bread. That was the first title of the inhabitants to +trade with the indians. + +To arrive at that end they promised to pay annually 1000 beaver to the +Paris office for its seignorial right which it did not receive through +its attention and management of its affairs. + +They got permission to form a Board from their principal men, to +transact with the governor all matters in the country for peace, for +war, the settlement of accounts of their society or little republic, +and also sitting on cases concerning interests of private individuals. + +It was then that to keep up this sham republic or society, a tax of +one-fourth was imposed on the export of beaver. + +By these means the authority of the Company and its store were ruined +and the whole was turning to the advantage of those four or six +families, the others, either poor or slighted by the authority of M. +D'Ailleboust, their governor. + +On this footing it was not hard for them to find large credit at La +Rochelle, because loans were made in the name of the Community, +although it consisted only of these four or six families; which from +their being poor found themselves in large managements enlarged their +household, ran into expense, that of their vessels and shipments was +excessive and the wealth derived from the beaver was to pay all. + +Their bad management altered their credit and brought them to agree, +after several years' enjoyment so as not to pay La Rochelle, to take +their ships to Hâvre-de-Grace, where, on arrival they sold to Messrs +Lick and Tabac; this perfidy which they excused because of the large +interest taken from them, alarmed La Rochelle who complained to Paris, +and after much pressing a trustee was appointed to give bonds in the +name of the society for large sums yet due to the city of La Rochelle. + +Their vessels all bore off to Normandy; they took on their cargoes +there in part, and part at La Rochelle, the trade having been allowed +those two places, because Rouen and Dieppe had several persons on the +roll of the Company and obligation was due La Rochelle for having +loaned property. + +The governor and the families addressed reproaches to each other, and +the King being pleased to listen to them, had the kindness to appoint +from the body of the company persons of first dignity to give attention +to what was going on in this colony, who were called Commissioners; +they were Messrs de Morangis, de la Marguerid, Verthamont and Chame, +and since, Messrs de Lamoignon, de Boucherat and de Lauzon, the latter +also of the body of the Company offered to pass over to this country to +arrange the difficulties, and he asked for its government, which was +accorded him. + +He embarked at La Rochelle because of the obligation of the creditors +of that city to treat him gently; Rouen did not care much. He was a +literary man; he made friends with the R. F. Jesuits, and created a new +council in virtue of the powers he had brought, rebuke the one and the +other place, even the inhabitants, in forbidding them to barter in what +was called the limits of Tadoussac, which he bounded for a particular +lease as a security for his payment and of what has always since been +called the offices of the country or the state of the 33,000 livres; +the emoluments of the Councillors, the garrison, the Jesuits, the +Parish, the Ursulines, the Hote-Dieu, etc. + +The pretext given was that the Iroquois having burned and ruined the +Hurons or Ottawa, the tax of one-fourth did not produce enough to meet +those demands, and because Tadoussac also was not sufficient to meet +all the expenditure contemplated to give war to the Iroquois, he it was +also who began in not paying the thousand weight in beaver owing for +seignorial right to the Company who was irritated and blamed his +conduct, and after the lapse of some years his friends write him they +could not longer shield him he anticipated his recall in returning to +France, where he has since served as sub-dean of the Council, residing +at the cloister of Notre-Dame with his son, canon at the said church. + +I only saw him two years in Canada where he was hardly liked, by reason +of the little care he took to keep up his rank, without servant, living +on pork and peas like an artisan or a peasant. + +However, having decided to go back, for a second time he threw open the +Tadoussac trade, by an order of his Council. + +M. de Lamoignon, the first president, got named to replace him, M. +D'Argenson, young man of 30 to 32 years steady as could be, who +remained four or five years to the satisfaction of everybody; he kept +up the Council as it is intended for the security of his emoluments and +of the garrison, selected twelve of the most notable persons to whom he +gave the faculty of trading at Tadoussac and all the sureties to be +wished for the administration and maintenance. + +He had the misfortune to fall out with the Jesuit Fathers, and they, +with messieurs de Mont Royal, of St Sulpice who had sent Mr the abbey +de Queysac, in the hope of making a bishop of him; the former wishing +to have one of their nomination presented to the Queen-mother of the +reigning King, whom God preserve, M. de Laval, to-day elder and first +bishop, who, very rigid, not only backed the Jesuits against the +governor in all difficulties but specially in the matter of the liquor +traffic with the indians. Although (D'Argenson) a much God-fearing-man +he had his private opinions, and this offended him; he asked M. de +Lamoignon for his recall, which was done in 1661, when M. d'Avaugour +came out. + +It was in 1660 that the Office in Paris, at the request of the +governor, of the Local council and on the advice of Messrs de +Lamoignon, Chame and other commissioners made an agreement with the +Rouen merchants to supply the inhabitants with all goods they would +require with 60% profit on dry goods and 100% on liquors, freight paid. + +It was pretended that the country was not safely secured by ships of +private parties, and that when they arrived alone by unforeseen +accidents, they happened unexpectedly, to the ruin of the country; as +well as the beaver fallen to a low price and which was restored only at +the marriage of the king should keep up. + +The creditors then pressing payment of their claims, a decree ordered +that of the 60%, 10% should be taken for the payment of debts which +were fixed at 10,000 livres at the rate of the consumption of the time +and of which the Company of Normandy took charge. The country was +favorable enough to this treaty because they were well served, but when +the treaty arrived at first, the bishop who was jealous because he had +not been consulted and that some little gratification had been given to +facilitate matters had it opposed by some of the inhabitants and by M. +D'Avaugour, governor in the place of the said D'Argenson. + +The Society of Normandy consented to the breaking off of the treaty on +receiving a minute account and being paid some compensation, as to +which they had no satisfaction because of the changes, for M. +D'Avaugour, like the others, fell out with the Bishop who went to +France and had him revoked, presenting in his stead M. de Mezy, a +Norman gentleman who did nothing better than to overdo all the +difficulties arising on the question of the Bishop and the Governor's +powers. + +The beaver dropped down, as soon, to a low price, and there was a +difference by half when the King in 1664 formed the Company of the West +Indies, which alone, to the exclusion of all others, had to supply the +country with merchandise and receive also all the beaver; in 1669, came +M. de Tracy, de Courcelles and Talon; the latter did not want any +Company and employed all kinds of ways to ruin the one he found +established. He gave to understand to M. Colbert that this country was +too big to be bounded; that there should come out of it fleets and +armies; his plans appeared too broad, still he met with no +contradiction at first, on the contrary he was lauded, which moved him +to establish a large trade and put out that of the company, which +through bad success in its affairs at the Isles, was relaxing enough of +itself in all sorts of undertakings. + +M. Talon desiring to bring together the government and the +superintendence was spending on a large scale to make friends and +therefore there was not a merchant when the Company quit who could +transact any business in his presence; he gets his goods free of dues, +freight and insurance; he also refused to pay the import tax on his +wines, liquors and tobacco. + +Finally his friends or enemies told him aloud that it was of profits of +his commerce that the King would be enriched. + +They fell out, M. de Courcelles and he; their misunderstanding forced +the first to ask for his discharge. M. de Frontenac, who succeeded him +also complained and I believe he returned to France without his congé +whence he never came back although he had promised so to all his +friends. + +You are aware as well as and perhaps better than I of the disputes of +M. de Frontenac and M. du Chesneau. + +And that is all I have been told for my satisfaction of what occurred +previous to 1655 when I came here to attend to the affairs of the Rouen +Company. + +I have also learned at the time of my arrival that properly speaking, +though there were a very large number of Indians, known under divers +names, which they bear with reference to certain action that their +chiefs had performed or with reference to lakes, rivers, lands or +mountains which they inhabit, or sometimes to animals stocking their +rivers and forests, nevertheless they could all be comprised under two +mother languages, to wit: the Huron and the Algonquin. + +At that period, I was told, the Huron was the most spread over men and +territory, and at present, I believe, that the Algonquin can well be +compared to it. + +To note, that all the Indians of the Algonquin language are stationed +and occupy land that we call land of the North on account of the River +which divides the country into two parts, and where they all live by +fishing and hunting. + +As well as the Indians of the Huron language who inhabit land to the +South, where they till the land and winter wheat, horse-beans, pease, +and other similar seeds to subsist; they are sedentary and the +Algonquin follow fish and game. + +However, this nation has always passed for the noblest, proudest and +hardest to manage when prosperous. When the French came here the true +Algonquin owned land from Tadoussac to Quebec, and I have always +thought they were issued from the Saguenay. It was a tradition that +they had expelled the Iroquois from the said place of Quebec and +neighborhood where they once lived; we were shown the sites of their +villages and towns covered by trees of a fresh growth, and now that the +lands are of value through cultivation, the farmers find thereon tools, +axes and knives as they were used to make them. + +We must believe that the said Algonquin were really masters over the +said Iroquois, because they obliged them to move away so far. + +Nobody could tell me anything certain about the origin of their war but +it was of a more cruel nature between these two nations than between +the said Iroquois and Hurons, who have the same language or nearly so. + +It is only known that the Iroquois commenced first to burn, importuned +by their enemies who came to break their heads whilst at work in their +wilderness; they imagined that such cruel treatment would give them +relaxation, and since, all the nations of this continent have used +fire, with the exception of the Abenakis and other tribes of Virginia. + +These Iroquois having had the best of the fight and reduced the +Algonquins since our discovery of this country, principally because +their pride giving us apprehension about their large number, they would +not arm themselves until a long time after the Dutch had armed the +Iroquois, made war and ruined all the other nations who were not nearly +so warlike as the Algonquin, and after the war, diseases came on that +killed those remaining; some have scattered in the woods, but in +comparison to what I have seen on my arrival, one might say that there +are no more men in this country outside of the fastnesses of the +forests recently discovered. + +The Hurons before their defeat by the Iroquois had, through the hope of +their conversion obliged the Jesuits to establish with them a strong +mission, and as from time to time it was necessary to carry to them +necessities of life, the governors began to allow some of their +servants to run up there every three or four years, from where they +brought that good green (gras) Huron beaver that the hatters seek for +so much. + +Sometimes this was kept up; sometimes no one offered for the voyage +there being then so little greediness it is true that the Iroquois were +so feared; M. de Lauson was the only one to send two individuals in +1656 who each secured 14 to 15,000 livres and came back with an indian +fleet worth 100,000 crowns. However, M. D'Argenson who succeeded him +and was five years in the country sent nobody neither did Messrs +Avaugour and de Mezy. + +It was consequently after the arrival of M. Talon that under pretext of +discovery, and of finding copper mines, he alone became director of +those voyages, for he obliged M. de Courcelles to sign him congés which +he got worked, but on a dispute between the workers he handled some +himself, of which I remember. + +You know the number and the regulations given under the first +administration of M. the Earl of Frontenac. + +It is certain that it is the holders of congés who look after and bring +down the beaver, and, can it be said that it is wrong to have an +abundance of goods. + +The French and the Indians have come down this year; the receipts of +the office must total up 200 millions or thereabouts, which judging +from your letter, will surprise those gentlemen very much. The clerks +have rejected it as much as they liked; I am told that they admitted +somewhere about six thousands of muscovy; during our administration +there were 28 or 30 thousands received, which is a large difference +without taking into account other qualities, and all this does not give +the French much trouble, and at the most for the year we were not +informed. I have given my sentiments to the meeting, and in particular +to M. de Frontenac and to M. de Champigny. + +We should be agreeable to our Prince's wishes who is doing so much good +to this country: his tenants who must supply him in such troubled +times, lose, and it is proper that people in Canada contribute +something to compensate them by freely agreeing to a pretty rich +receipt on their commodity but what resource in regard to the indian so +interested that everything moves with him, through necessity; they are +asked and sought after to receive English goods, infinitely better than +ours, at a cost half as low and to pay their beaver very high. + +This commercial communication gives them peace with their enemies and +liberty to hunt, and consequently to live in abundance instead of their +living at present with great hardship. Should we not say that it +requires a great affection not to break away in the face of such strong +attractions; if we lose them once we lose them for ever, that it is +certain, and from friends they become our enemies; thus we lose not +only the beaver but the colony, and absolutely no more cattle, no more +grains, no more fishing. + +The colony with all the forces of the Kingdom cannot resist the Indians +when they have the English or other Europeans to supply them with +ammunitions of war, which leads me to the query: what is the beaver +worth to the English that they seek to get it by all means? + +If also the rumors set agoing are true the farmers-general would not +sell a considerable part to the Danes at a very high price, should they +not have had somebody in their employ who understands and knows that +article well, it appears to me that the thing is worth while. + +All the same, people are asking why they want to sell so dear, what +costs them so little, for taking one and the other, that going out this +year should not cost them more than 50s (_sous_), the entries, +Tadoussac, and the tax of one fourth, does it not pay the lease with +profit. This is in everybody's mind, and everyone looks at it as he +fancies. + +I was of opinion to arrange the receipts on a basis that these +gentlemen got M. Benac to offer, so as to avoid the difficulties on the +qualities, and this opinion served to examine the loss this proposition +would bring to the country in the general receipt. + +I have no other interest than the Prince's service, and to please these +gentlemen I should like to know, heartily, of some expedient, because +it is absolutely necessary to find one to satisfy the Indian; M. the +Earl of Frontenac is under a delusion: I may say it, they will give us +the goby, and after that all shall be lost, I am not sure even, if they +would not repeat the Sicilian Vespers, to show their good will, and +that they never want to make it up. I am so isolated that I do not say +anything about it, as I am afraid for myself, but I know well that it +is Indian's nature to betray, and that our affairs are not at all good +in the upper country. + +To a great evil great remedy. I had said to M. de Frontenac that the +25 per cent could be abolished and make it up on something else, as it +is a question of saving the country, but he did not deem fit of +anything being said about it. + +I also told him and M. de Champigny that we might treat with a Dutchman +to bring on a clearance English and Dutch goods which are much thought +of by our indians for their good quality and their price, that this +vessel would not go up the river but stay below at a stated place, +where we could go for his goods, and give him beaver for his rightful +lading. + +The company should have the control of these merchandise, so as to sell +them to the indians on the base of a tariff, so as to prevent the +greediness of the _voyageurs_ which contributes very much to the +discontent of the natives, because at first the French only went to the +Hurons and since to Michilimakinac where they sold to the Indians of +the locality, who then went to exchange with other indians in distant +woods, lands and rivers, but now the said Frenchmen holding permits to +have a larger gain pass over all the Ottawas and Indians of +Michilimakinac to go themselves and find the most distant tribes which +displeased the former very much. + +This has led to fine discoveries and four or five hundred young men of +Canada's best men are employed at this business. + +Through them we have become acquainted with several Indian's names we +knew not, and 4 and 500 leagues farther away, there are other indians +unknown to us. + +Down the Gulf in French Acadia, we have always known the Abenakis and +Micmacs. + +On the north shore of the River, from Seven islands up we have always +known the Papinachois, Montagnais, Poissons Blancs, (White Fish), +(these being in what is called limits of Tadoussac), Mistassinis, +Algonquins. + + +AT QUEBEC + +There are Hurons, remains of the ancient Hurons, defeated by the +Iroquois, in Lake Huron. + +There is also south of the Chaudière (River), five leagues from Quebec, +a large village of Christian Abenakis. + +The Hurons & Abenakis are under the Jesuit Fathers. + +These Hurons have staid at Quebec so as to pray God more conveniently +and without fear of the Iroquois. + +The Abenakis pray God with more fervor than any Indians of these +countries. I have seen and been twice with them when warring; they +must have faith to believe as they do and their exactitude to live well +according to principles of our religion. Blessed be God! They are +very good men at war and those who have give and still give so much +trouble to the Bostoners. + + +AT THREE-RIVERS + +Wolves and Algonquins both sides of the river. + + +AT MONTROYAL OR VILLE-MARIE + +There are Iroquois of the five nations who have left their home to pray +(everyone is free to believe) but it is certain that threefourths have +no other motive nor interest to stay with us than to pray. + +There are, then, Senecas, Mohawks, Cayugas, Wyandotts, Oneida partly on +the mountain of Mont-Royal under the direction of Messrs of St Sulpice, +and partly at the Sault (Recollet) south side, that is to say, above +the rapids, under the R. F. Jesuits, whose mission is larger than St +Sulpice's. + +150 leagues from Mont Royal the Grand River leading to the Ottawas; to +the north are the Temiscamingues, Abitiby, Outanloubys, who speak +Algonquin. + +At lake Nepissing, the Nipissiniens, Algonquin language, always going +up the Grand River. + +In lake Huron, 200 leagues from Montreal, the Mississagues and +Amikoués: Algonquins. + +At Michilimackinac, the Negoaschendaching or people of the Sable, +Ottawas, Linage Kikacons or Cut Tail, the men from Forked Lake +Onnasaccoctois, the Hurons, in all 1000 men or thereabouts half Huron +and half Algonquin language. + +In the Michigan or lake Illinois, north side, the Noquets, Algonquins, +Malomini (Menomeenee), or men of the Folle-Avoine: different language. + + +SOUTH OF PUANTS (GREEN) BAY + +The Wanebagoes otherwise Puans, because of the name of the Bay; +language different from the two others. + +The Sakis, 3 leagues from the Bay, and Pottewatamis, about 200 warriors. + +Towards lake Illinois, on River St Joseph, the Miamis or men of the +Crane who have three different languages, though they live together. +United they would form about 600 men. + +Above the Bay, on Fox river, the Ottagamis, the Mascoutins and the +Kicapoos: all together 1200 men. + +At Maramegue river where is situated Nicholas Perrot's post, are some +more Miamis numbering five to six hundred; always the same language. + +The Illinois midway on the Illinois river making 5 to 6 different +villages, making in all 2000 men. + +We traffic with all these nations who are all at war with the Iroquois. +In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very numerous with +whom we have no commerce and who are trading yet with nobody. + +Above Missoury river which is of the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins Nadoessioux, with whom +we trade, and who are numerous. + +Sixty leagues above the missisipi and St Anthony of Padua Fall, there +is lake Issaquy otherwise lake of Buade, where there are 23 villages of +Sioux Nadoessioux who are called Issaquy, and beyond lake Oettatous, +lower down the auctoustous, who are Sioux, and could muster together +4000 warriors. Because of their remoteness they only know the Iroquois +from what they heard the French say. + +In lake Superior, south side are the saulteurs who are called Ouchijoe +(objibway), Macomili, Ouxcinacomigo, Mixmac and living at Chagoumigon, +it is the name of the country, the Malanas or men of the Cat-fish; 60 +men; always the Algonquin language. + +Michipicoten, name of the land; the Machacoutiby and Opendachiliny, +otherwise Dung-heads; lands' men; algonquin language. The Picy is the +name of a land of men, way inland, who come to trade. + +Bagoasche, also name of a place of men of same nation who come also to +trade 200 and 300 men. + +Osepisagny river being discharge of lake Asemipigon; sometimes the +indians of the lake come to trade; they are called Kristinos and the +nation of the Great Rat. These men are Algonquins, numbering more than +2000, and also go to trade with the English of the north. + +There are too the Chichigoe who come sometimes to us, sometimes north +to the English. + +Towards West-Northwest, it is nations called Fir-trees; numerous; all +their traffic is with the English. + +All those north nations are rovers, as was said, living on fish and +game or wild-oats which is abundant on the shores of their lakes and +rivers. + +In lake Ontario, south side, the five Iroquois nations; our enemies; +about 1200 warriors live on indian corn and by hunting. + +We can say, that, of all the Indians they are the most cruel during +war, as during peace they are the most humane, hospitable, and +sociable; they are sensible at their meetings, and their behaviour +resembles much to the manners of republics of Europe. + +Lake Ontario has 200 leagues in circumference. + +Lake Erie above Niagara 250 leagues; lakes Huron and Michigan joined +552 leagues: to have access to these three lakes by boat, there is only +the portage of Niagara, of two leagues, above the said lake Ontario. + +All those who have been through those lakes say they are terrestrial +paradises for abundance of venison, game, fishing, and good quality of +the land. + +From the said lakes to go to lake Superior there is only one portage of +15 (?). The said lake is 500 leagues long in a straight line, from +point to point, without going around coves nor the bays of Michipicoten +and Kaministiquia. + +To go from lake Superior to lake Asemipigon there is only 15 leagues to +travel, in which happen seven portages averaging 3 good leagues; the +said lake has a circumference of 280 leagues. + +From lake Huron to lake Nipissing there is the river called French +River, 25 leagues long; there are 3 portages; the said lake has 60 to +80 leagues of circumference. + +Lake Assiniboel is larger than lake Superior, and an infinity of +others, lesser and greater have to be discovered, for which I approve +of M. the Marquis of Denonville's saying, often repeated:--that the +King of France, our monarch was not high lord enough to open up such a +vast country, as we are only beginning to enter on the confines of the +immensity of such a great country. + +The road to enter it is by the Grand River and lake Ontario by Niagara, +which should be easy in peaceful times in establishing families at +Niagara for the portage, and building boats on Lake Erie. I did not +find that a difficult thing, and I want to do it under M. the Marquis +of Denonville, who did not care, so soon as he perceived that his war +expedition had not succeeded. + +I have given you in this memorandum the names of the natives known to +us and with whom our wood rovers (coureurs de bois) have traded; my +information comes from some of the most experienced. + +The surplus of the memorandum will serve to inform you that prior to M. +de Tracy, de Courcelle and Talon's arrival, nothing was regulated but +by the governor's will, although there was a Board; as they were his +appointments and that by appearances, only his creatures got in, he was +the absolute master of it and which was the cause that the Colony and +the inhabitants suffered very much at the beginning. + +M. de Tracy on his arrival by virtue of his commission dismissed the +Board and the Councillors, to appoint another one with members chosen +by himself and the Bishop, which existed until the 2nd and 3rd year of +M. de Frontenac's reign, who had them granted at Court, provisions by a +decree for the establishment of the Council. + +It is only from that time that the King having given the country over +to the gentlemen of the Co'y of West Indies, the tax of one fourth and +the Tadoussac trade were looked upon as belonging to the Company, and +since to the King, because M. Talon, who crippled as much as he could, +this company dare not touch to these two items of the Domain, of which +the enjoyment remained to them until cessation of their lease. + +So, it was in favor of this company that all the regulations were +granted in reference to the limits and working out of Tadoussac as well +as to prevent cheating on the beaver tax. + +Tadoussac is leased to six gentlemen for the sum of ---- yearly; I took +shares for one fourth, as it was an occasion to dispose of some goods +and a profit to everyone of at most 20 ---- yearly. + +About beavers there is no fraud to be feared, everybody preferring to +get letters of exchange to avoid the great difficulties on going out, +the entry and sale in France, and of large premiums for the risks; in a +word, no one defrauds nor thinks of it. The office is not large enough +to receive all the beaver. + +The ships came in very late; I could not get M. Dumenu the secretary to +the Board to send you the regulations you ask for the beaver trade; you +shall have them, next year, if it pleases God. They contain +prohibition to embark from France under a penalty of 3000 livres' fine, +confiscation of the goods, even of the ships; however, under the treaty +of Normandy, I had a Dieppe captain seized for about 200 crowns worth +of beaver, and the Council here confiscated the vessel, and imposed a +fine of 1500 livres, on which the captain appealed to France, and he +obtained at the King's Council, replevin on his ship and the fine was +reduced to 30 livres. + +As prior to M. Talon nobody sent traders in the woods as explained in +this memorandum there was not to my knowledge any regulation as to the +said woods before the decree of 1675. On the contrary I remember that +those two individuals under M. de Lauzon's government who brought in +each for 14. or 15,000 livres applied to me to be exempted from the tax +of one fourth, because, they said we were obliged to them for having +brought down a fleet which enriched the country. + +(Not signed.) + + + + +INDEX + +[Transcriber's note: Many index entries contain references like the "9 +n." in the "Arms" entry. The "n." appears to refer to the footnote(s) +that were on their host pages in the original book. In this e-book, +all footnotes have been moved to the end of their respective chapters.] + + +A + +Abenaki Indians, the, 363. + +Abitiby Indians, the, 364. + +Acadia, Indian tribes located in, 363. + +Albanel, Charles, Jesuit missionary, 141; overland trip of, to Hudson +Bay, 143-146; at King Charles Fort, 147. + +Albany (Orange), 32; Iroquois freebooting expedition against, 36-38; +Radisson's escape to, 39-41. + +Algonquin Indian, murder of Mohawk hunters by a, 20. + +Algonquin Indians, Radisson and Groseillers travel to the West with, +73-79; territory of the, 359; wars with the Iroquois, 359-360; tribes +of, on Lake Huron, 364. + +Allemand, Pierre, companion of Radisson, 154. + +Allouez, Père Claude, 142. + +Amsterdam, Radisson's early visit to, 42. + +Arctic Ocean, Hearne's overland trip to, 257-265; arrival at, 265-266; +Mackenzie's trip of exploration to, 281-286. + +Arms, supplied to Mohawks by Dutch, 9 n.; desire for, cause of Sioux' +friendliness to Radisson, 120, 122. + +Assiniboine Indians, origin of name, 10 n., 85; Radisson learns of, +from prairie tribes, 85; defence of the younger Groseillers by, 184; De +la Vérendrye meets the, 218-221; accompany De la Vérendrye to the +Mandans, 223-227; Saint-Pierre's encounter with, 237. + +Assiniboine River, 218, 219, 221-222. + +Athabasca country, Hearne explores the, 268-269. + +Athabasca Lake; Hearne's arrival at, 268-269. + +Athabasca River, 277. + +Athabascan tribes, Matonabbee and the, 249. + +Aulneau, Father, 210, 211; killed by Indians, 214. + + +B + +Baptism of Indian children by Radisson and Groseillers, 92. + +Barren lands, region of "Little Sticks," 253-254, 259-260. + +Bath of purification, Indian, 14, 268. + +Bay of the North. _See_ Hudson Bay. + +Bayly, Charles, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 140; in Canada, +140-142; encounter with the Jesuit Albanel, 141-142, 147; accusations +against Radisson and Groseillers, 147-148. + +Bear, Lewis's experience with a, 318. + +Beauharnois, Charles de, governor of New France, 201, 203, 235. + +_Beaux Hommes_, Crow Indians, 232. + +Beckworth, prisoner among Missouri Indians, 33. + +Belmont, Abbé, cited, 5 n., 98 n. + +Bering, Vitus, 195. + +Bigot, intendant of New France, 236. + +Bird, prisoner of the Blackfeet, 33. + +Bird's egg moon, the (June), 279. + +Blackbird, Omaha chief, grave of, 311. + +Bochart, governor of Three Rivers. _See_ Duplessis-Kerbodot. + +Boësme, Louis, 70. + +_Boissons_, drinking matches, 280. + +Boston, Radisson and Groseillers in, 136. + +Bourassa, _voyageur_, 213. + +Bourdon, Jean, explorations by, 102, 134 n. + +Bow Indians, the, 232-233. + +Bridgar, John, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 166, 169, 171, 173, +174, 175, 180. + +Brower, J. V., cited, 88 n. + +Bryce, Dr. George, 6 n., 88 n., 187 n. + +Buffalo-hunts, Sioux, 92 n., 124. + +Button, Sir Thomas, explorations of, 134 n. + + +C + +Cadieux, exploit and death of, 197-198. + +Cameahwait, Snake Indian chief, 324-326. + +Cannibalism among Indians, 24, 77. + +Cannibals of the Barren Lands, 255. + +Cape Breton, discovery and fortification of, 350. + +Caribou, Radisson's remarks on, 127. + +Caribou herds in Barren Lands, 255; Indian method of hunting, 259. + +Carr, George, letter from, to Lord Darlington, 136 n. + +Carr, Sir Robert, urges Radisson to renounce France, 136. + +Carrier, Jacques, 71, 193, 350-351. + +Cartwright, Sir George, Radisson and Groseillers sail with, 136-137; +shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Catlin, cited, 14 n., 226. + +Cayuga Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. + +Chaboneau, guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 326, 332. + +Chame, M., commissioner of Company of Normandy, 355, 357. + +Champlain, governor in Canada, 351-353. + +Charlevoix, mission of, 202. + +Chichigoe tribe of Indians, the, 365. + +Chinook Indians, Lewis and Clark friends with, 328. + +Chipewyans, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Hearne's journey +with, 257-263; massacre of Eskimo by, 263-265. + +Chouart, M., letters of, 335-337. _See_ Groseillers, Jean Baptiste. + +Chouart, Médard. See Groseillers, Médard Chouart. + +_Chronique Trifluvienne_, Sulte's, 4 n. + +Clark, William, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 308-309; exploration of +Yellowstone River by, 329; hero-qualities of, 332-333. _See_ Lewis. + +Clatsop Indians, Lewis and Clark among the, 328. + +Clearwater River, Lewis and Clark on the, 327. + +Coal, use of, by Indians, 89. + +Colbert, Radisson pardoned and commissioned by, 148; withholds +advancement from Radisson, 152; summons Radisson and Groseillers to +France, 176-177; death of, 177. + +Colleton, Sir Peter, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Colter, frontiersman with Lewis and Clark, 332. + +Columbia River, Lewis and Clark travel down the, 327. + +Company of Miscou, the, 352. + +Company of Normandy, the, 354-357. + +Company of the North, the, 151, 154, 175, 176. + +Company of One Hundred Associates, the, 133, 352, 353. + +Company of Tadoussac, the, 352. + +Company of the West Indies, the, 133, 153; account of formation of, 357. + +Comporté, M., letter to, from M. Chouart, 335-336. + +Coppermine River ("Far-Off-Metal River"), 245, 249, 252, 262, 267. + +Copper mines, Radisson receives reports of, 112, 124; discovery of, by +Hearne, 267. + +Council Bluffs, origin of name, 311. + +Council pipe, smoking the, 16, 29. + +Couture, explorations of, 103, 129-130. + +Couture (the younger), 143. + +Cree Indians, first reports of, 69, 85; Radisson's second visit to, +112-113, 116; wintering in a settlement of, 117; a famine among, +118-119; De la Vérendrye assisted by, 206-208. + +Crow Indians, De la Vérendrye's sons among, 232-233. + + +D + +Dablon, Claude, Jesuit missionary, 103, 134 n., 142. + +D'Ailleboust, M., governor of Company of Normandy, 354. + +Dakota, Radisson's explorations in, 89. + +D'Argenson, Viscomte, governor of New France, 99, 129-130, 356-357, 360. + +D'Avaugour, governor, 104, 105, 107, 133, 143, 357, 360. + +Death-song, Huron, 24, 54. + +De Casson, Dollier, cited, 5 n., 96 n., 98 n. + +De la Galissonnière, governor, 235. + +De la Jonquière, governor, 236. + +De Lanoue, fur-trade pioneer, 204. + +De la Vérendrye, Francois, 215, 222, 229, 230, 233. + +De la Vérendrye, Jean Baptiste, 197, 205, 208-209, 210, 212; murder of, +by Sioux, 214. + +De la Vérendrye, Louis, 215, 229. + +De la Vérendrye, Pierre, 215, 222, 229, 230, 235, 315. + +De la Vérendrye, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, leaves Montreal on search +for Western Sea (1731), 194-197; at Nepigon, 201; previous career, +201-203; traverses Lake Superior to Kaministiquia, 204; Fort St. Pierre +named for, 206; among the Cree Indians, 206-208; return to Quebec to +raise supplies, 210; loss of eldest son in Sioux massacre, 214; +explores Minnesota and Manitoba to Lake Winnipeg, 215-216; at Fort +Maurepas, 217; return to Montreal with furs, 218; explores valley of +the Assiniboine, 219-221; visits the Mandan Indians, 224-225; takes +possession for France of the Upper Missouri, 225; superseded by De +Noyelles (1746), 235; decorated with Order of Cross of St. Louis, 235; +death at Montreal, 236. + +De Niverville, lieutenant of Saint-Pierre, 236-237. + +Denonville, Marquis of, 336, 366, 367. + +De Noyelles, supersession of De la Vérendrye by, 235. + +De Noyon, explorations of, 204. + +Dieppe, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353. + +Dionne, Dr. N. E., cited, 76 n., 88 n., 106 n., 139 n. + +Dog Rib Indians, Mackenzie among, 283-284. + +Dollard, fight of, against the Iroquois, 96-98, 198. + +Dreuillettes, Gabriel, discoveries by, 70-71, 103, 134 n. + +Drewyer, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 331. + +Drugging of Indians, 63-64. + +Duchesnau, M. Jacques, 149 n., 358. + +Dufrost, Christopher, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, 197, 203, 205, 209, 210, +211. + +Du Péron, Francois, 47. + +Duplessis-Kerbodot, murder of, by Iroquois, 5 n., 19, 45. + +Dupuis, Major, at Onondaga, 46, 55-66. + +Dutch, arms supplied to Mohawk Indians by, 9 n.; war of, with the +English, 137-138. + + +E + +England, arrival of Radisson and Groseillers in, 137; effect of war +between Holland and, on exploring propositions, 137-138; Hudson's Bay +Company organized in, 139-140; fur-trading expeditions from, 140-149. +_See_ Hudson's Bay Company _and_ Radisson. + +Erie Indians, the, 34. + +Eskimo, massacre of, by Chipewyans, 263-265. + + +F + +"Far-Off-Metal River," the, 245, 249, 252; Hearne reaches the, 262. + +Feasts, Indian, 60, 62-63, 67 n. + +_Festins à tout manger_, 60, 67 n. + +Fields, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 330-331. + +Flathead Indians, assistance given Lewis and Clark by, 327, 328. + +Floyd, Sergeant, of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 332. + +Forked River, term applied to Mississippi and Missouri rivers, 86, 100; +Radisson's account of people on the, 86-87. + +Fort, Dollard's so-called, at the Long Sault, 97; Radisson and +Groseillers', in the Northwest, 114-115. + +Fort Bourbon (Port Royal), on Hayes River, 161-175, 182-186. + +Fort Bourbon, on Saskatchewan, 229. + +Fort Chipewyan, 277. + +Fort Clatsop, Lewis and Clark's winter quarters, 327-328. + +Fort Dauphin, 229. + +Fort King Charles, 139, 146. + +Fort Lajonquière, 237. + +Fort Mandan, stars and stripes hoisted at, 312. + +Fort Maurepas, construction, 209; description, 216-217; De la Vérendrye +at, 217. + +Fort Orange, Radisson and the Iroquois at, 36-38; Radisson's escape to, +39-41. + +Fort Poskoyac, 229, 235. + +Fort Prince of Wales, building of, 243; description, 244-245; Hearne +becomes governor of, 270; surrender and destruction of, 271-272. + +Fort de la Reine, construction of, 222; De la Vérendrye returns to, +after visiting Mandans, 228; abandonment of, 237. + +Fort Rouge, 221. + +Fort St. Charles, 208-209, 210, 215. + +Fort St. Louis, of Quebec, first fortification on site of, 351. + +Fort St. Pierre, 206. + +Fort William, 280, 283, 287. + +Fraser River, Mackenzie's explorations on, 294-302. + +Frog moon, the (May), 279. + +Frontenac, governor of New France, 154, 358, 360, 361, 362, 367. + +Fur companies of New France, 130, 133, 151, 153, 175-176, 352-358. + +Fur company, Hudson's Bay. _See_ Hudson's Bay Company. + +Fur trade, the French, 101-102, 104; regulations governing the, 104, +153 n.; effect of, on development of West, 113. + + +G + +Gantlet, running the, 15-16. + +Gareau, Leonard, journey and death of, 70. + +Garneau, cited, 5 n., 87 n. + +Gillam, Ben, encounters with Radisson, 163-164, 168-175. + +Gillam, Zechariah, Radisson's first transactions with, 135-136; +Groseillers' voyage to Hudson Bay with, 138-139; at Rupert River with +Hudson's Bay Company ship, 148; active enmity of, toward Radisson, +165-167, 168-169, 171, 176, 180. + +Godefroy, Jean, companion of Radisson, 154. + +Godefroy family, the, 154 n. + +Goose month (April), 253-254. + +Gorst, Thomas, 140 n., 147 n. + +Grand River of the North. _See_ Mackenzie River. + +Gray, Captain, 308. + +Great Falls of the Missouri, Lewis discovers the, 317. + +Great Rat, nation of the, 131, 365. + +Green Bay, western limit of French explorations until Radisson, 69; +Radisson's winter quarters at, 79-80, 99-100. + +Groseillers, nephew of explorer, title of nobility ordered granted to, +142. + +Groseillers, Jean Baptiste, accompanies Radisson to Hudson Bay (1682), +154; trip up Hayes River, 158, 161; left in charge of Fort Bourbon, +175; troubles with Indians and with English, 182-183; surrenders fort +to Radisson, acting for Hudson's Bay Company, 184; letters to mother, +184, 335-337; carried to England by force, 186; offer from Hudson's Bay +Company, 187. + +Groseillers, Médard Chouart, birth, birthplace, and marriage, 45; +journey to Lake Nipissing, 71; engages with Radisson in voyage of +exploration to the West (1658), 71-79; winter quarters at Green Bay, +79-80; explorations in West and Northwest, 80-90; return to Quebec, 99; +second trip to Northwest (1661), 103-129; imprisoned and fined on +return to Quebec (1663), 130; goes to France to seek reparation, 133; +meets with neglect and indifference, 133-134; deceived into returning +to Three Rivers and going to Isle Percée, 135; goes to Port Royal, +N.S., becomes involved with Boston sea-captain, and reaches England +_via_ Boston and Spain (1666), 135-137; backed by Prince Rupert, fits +out ship for Hudson Bay, and spends year in trading expedition +(1668-1669),138-139; on return to London, created a _Knight de la +Jarretière_, 139; second voyage from England (1670), 140; involved with +Radisson in suspicions of double-dealing, 147-148; in meeting of fur +traders at Quebec, 149; retires to family at Three Rivers, 151; +summoned by Radisson to join expedition in private French interests to +Hayes River (1681-1682), 153-158; successful trade in furs, 158, 167; +jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, 175-176; summoned to France +by Colbert (1684), 176-177; petition for redress of wrongs ignored by +French court, 179; gives up struggle and retires to Three Rivers, 179. + + +H + +Hayes, Sir James, 180, 181. + +Hayes River, Radisson's canoe trip up the, 158-160; Fort Bourbon +established on, 161; Radisson's second visit to, 182-186. + +Hayet, Marguerite, Radisson's sister, 6 n., 43; death of first husband, +19, 45; marriage with Groseillers, 45; letters from son, 184, 335-337. + +Hayet, Sébastien, 6 n., 43 n. + +Hearne, Samuel, cited, 14 n.; departure from Fort Prince of Wales on +exploring trip, 249-252; in the Barren Lands, 253-255, 259-260; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 261; discovers the Coppermine River, 262-263; +massacre of Eskimo by Indians accompanying, 264-265; arrival at Arctic +Ocean, 265; takes possession of Arctic regions for Hudson's Bay +Company, 266-267; returns up the Coppermine River and discovers copper +mines, 267; travels in Athabasca region, 268-269; returns to Fort +Prince of Wales, 269; becomes governor of post, 270; surrenders fort to +the French, 271-272. + +Hénault, Madeline, Radisson's mother, 6 n., 43. + +Hudson Bay, overland routes to, 71; Radisson's early discoveries +regarding, 90-91, 127-128. + +_Hudson Bay_, Robson's, cited, 139 n., 140 n., 147 n., 161 n., 166 n. + +Hudson's Bay Company, origin of, 139-140; early expeditions, 140-149; +distrust of Radisson by, 150; contract between Radisson and, 181-182; +final treaty of peace made between Indians and, 185; poor treatment of +Radisson by, 188; quietly prosperous career of, 241-242; encroachments +of French traders, 242-243; demand for activity, 243-244; possession +taken of Arctic regions for, by Hearne, 266-267. + +Huron Indians, death songs of, 24, 54; massacre of Christian, by +Iroquois, 50-54; band of, with Dollard, against the Iroquois, 97-98; +territory of, 359; tribes of, at Michilimackinac, 364. + +Husky dogs, 277. + + +I + +Icebergs, Labradorian, 155. + +Iroquois Confederacy, the five tribes composing the, 34; +characteristics of, 366. + +Iroquois Indians, murder of inhabitants of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, +45; treatment of prisoners by, 15-16, 25-28, 54; Radisson's life with, +16-39; Frenchmen at Montreal scalped by, 48; hostages of, held at +Quebec, 48, 55-56; siege of Onondaga by, 55-67; encounters between +Algonquins and Radisson and, 76-78, 79-80; Radisson's fight with, on +the Grand Sault, 94-96; Bollard's battle with, 97-98; Radisson's fights +with, on second Western trip, 107-108, 109-111; wars between Algonquins +and, 359. + +Isle of Massacres, 50-54. + +Issaguy tribe of Indians, 131 n. + + +J + +Jemmeraie, Sieur de la, De la Vérendrye's lieutenant, 197, 203, 205, +209, 210; death of, 211. + +_Jesuit Relations_, cited, 57 n., 69 n., 71 n., 73 n., 80 n., 81 n., 82 +n., 91 n., 92 n., 96 n., 141 n.; quoted, 88. + +Jesuits, in Onondaga expedition, 44-67; lives of Iroquois saved by, 65; +start with Radisson and Groseillers on first Western expedition, 73; +turn back to Montreal, 77. + +Jogues, Father, 4, 56, 68, 69. + +Jolliet, 84 n., 149, 151. + + +K + +Kaministiquia, fur post at, 204. + +Kickapoo Indians, location of, 364. + +King Charles Fort. _See_ Fort King Charles. + +Kirke, Mary, marriage with Radisson, 138; becomes a Catholic, 152. + +Kirke, Sir John, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140; claims of, +against New France, 152; forbids daughter's going to France, 152; +friendly influence used for Radisson, 180. + +_Knight de la Jarretière_, Groseillers created a, 139. + + +L + +La Barre, governor of New France, 176 + +La Chesnaye, cited, 115 n., 131 n.; backs Radisson in Northern +expedition, 152-153; outcome of Radisson's dealings with, 175-176. + +Lake Assiniboel, 366. + +"Lake of the Castors," the (Lake Nipissing), 76 n., 106 n., 364. + +Lake Ontario, tribes about, 366. + +Lake Superior, exploration of, by Radisson, 89; explorer's second visit +to, 111-112. + +Lamoignon, M. de, president of Company of Normandy, 355, 356, 357. + +La Perouse, French admiral, 271. + +Larivière, companion of Radisson and Groseillers, 105, 106-107. + +La Salle, 84 n., 85, 149, 151, 194. + +Lauzon, M. de, governor of Company of Normandy, 355-356, 368. + +La Vallière, 103. + +La Vérendrye. _See_ De la Vérendrye. + +Ledyard, John, 308. + +_Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_, cited, 46 n., 58 n., 60 n., 63 n., +81 n., 90 n., 96 n., 98 n., 139 n. + +Lewis, Meriwether, starts on expedition to explore Missouri and +Columbia rivers, 308-309; reaches villages of Mandan Indians, 311-313; +first views the Rocky Mountains, 314-315; discovers the Great Falls of +the Missouri, 317; narrowly escapes death from a bear, 318-319; enters +the Gates of the Rockies, 321; reaches sources of the Missouri, +322-323; makes friends with Snake Indians, 323-327; crosses Divide to +the Clearwater River and travels down the Columbia, 327; arrival on +Pacific Ocean, 327; winters at Fort Clatsop (1805-1806), 327-328; +return trip by main stream of the Missouri, 329; adventures with +Minnetaree Indians, 329-331; arrival at St. Louis, 332; tribute to +character and qualities of, 332-333. + +Liberte, traitor in Lewis and Clark's expedition, 311. + +Little Missouri, Lewis and Clark pass the, 313. + +"Little Sticks," region of, 253-254, 259-260. + +London, Radisson's first visit to, 137-138. + +Long Sault, Rapids of, Dollard's battle at, 96-98, 198. + +Lord Preston, English envoy in France, 177, 180, 181. + +Low, A. P., quoted, 128 n., 146 n., 149 n. + + +M + +Mackay, Alexander, Mackenzie's lieutenant, 288, 291, 292, 293, 296, 299. + +Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, early career of, 276; stationed at Fort +Chipewyan, 276-277; exploration of Mackenzie River by, 280-285; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 285; reaches Arctic Ocean, 285-286; returns up the +Mackenzie to Fort Chipewyan, 286; exploration of Peace River by, +288-294; discovers source of Peace River, 294; crosses the Divide and +reaches head waters of Fraser River, 294; travels down the Fraser, +294-298; adventures with Indians, 298-300; reaches the Pacific Ocean, +302-303; return to Fort Chipewyan _via_ Peace River, 304-305; later +life, 306. + +Mackenzie, Charles, 311. + +Mackenzie, Roderick, 278, 279. + +Mackenzie River, exploration of, 280-287, 296-302. + +Mandan Indians, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Radisson +discovers the, 86, 88; De la Vérendrye's visit to, 222, 225-227; the +younger De la Vérendryes' second visit to, 230-231; Lewis and Clark at +villages of, 311-313, 332. + +Manitoba, Radisson's explorations in, 113-128. + +Marquette, Père, 84 n. + +Martin, Abraham, Plains of Abraham named for, 45 n. + +Martin, Helen, Groseillers' first wife, 45 n. + +Martinière, plan of, to capture Radisson for French, 188. + +Mascoutins, "people of the fire," 80, 131 n., 364, 365; location of +the, 86; Radisson among the, 100. + +Matonabbee, chief of Chipewyans, 248-249; aid afforded Hearne by, +256-263; massacre of Eskimo directed by, 264-265; suicide of, 272. + +Ménard, Father, 105, 112. + +Messaiger, Father, 204, 205, 209. + +Miami Indians, location of the, 364. + +Michigan, Indian tribes in, 364. + +Michilimackinac, Island of, Radisson; passes, 112; early headquarters +of fur trade, 201; Indian tribes at, 364. + +Micmac Indians, the, 363. + +Minnesota, dispute as to discovery of eastern, 71 n.; Radisson's +explorations in, 89; Radisson may have wintered in, on second trip, 113. + +Minnetaree Indians, Lewis and the, 329-331. + +Mississippi, Radisson discovers the Upper, 80-81. + +Mississippi Valley, Radisson first to explore the, 85-89. + +Missouri, tribes of the, 86; De la Vérendrye takes possession of the +Upper, 225; Lewis and Clark explore the, 313-323. + +Mistassini, Lake, Father Albanel at, 146. + +Mistassini Indians, the, 363. + +Mohawk Indians, murder of French of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, 45; +adoption of Radisson by a family of, 17; murder of three, by Radisson +and an Algonquin, 20; jealous as to French settlement among Onondagas, +47-48; siege of Onondaga by, 55-59; outwitted by Radisson at Onondaga, +59-67; location of the, 364. + +Montagnais Indians, the, 363. + +Montana, punishment of Indians by scouts in, 25 n. + +Montmagny, M. de, governor in Canada, 353-354. + +Montreal, expedition for Onondaga leaves, 47; Iroquois scalp Frenchmen +at, 48; return of Onondaga party, 66; De la Vérendrye's departure from, +194-197; Indian tribes located in vicinity of, 363-364. + +Munck, explorations of, 134 n. + + +N + +"Nation of the Grand Rat," 131, 365. + +Nelson River, Radisson on the, 140, 161, 164-167, 170-174, 179 n. + +Nemisco River, called the Rupert, 139. + +Nepigon, De la Vérendrye at, 201, 202. + +New York in 1653, 41-42. + +_New York Colonial Documents_, 9 n. + +Nez Perces Indians, help given to Lewis and Clark by, 328. + +Nicolet, Jean, 68, 69. + +Nicolls, Colonel Richard, quoted, 136 n. + +Nipissing, Lake, 76 n., 106 n., 364. + +Nipissinien Indians, the, 364. + +Northwest, the Great, discovery of, by Radisson, 80-85. + +Northwest Fur Company, the, 279, 280, 287. + +Northwest Passage, reward of L20,000 offered for discovery of, 278. + +Norton, Marie, 247, 270, 271-272. + +Norton, Moses, governor of Fort Prince of Wales, 244; character of, +246-247; death of, 269-270. + + +O + +Ochagach, Indian hunter, 202. + +Octbaton tribe of Indians, 131 n. + +Ojibway Indians, 115, 365. + +Oldmixon, John, cited, 92 n., 114 n., 130 n., 147 n. + +Omaha Indians, Radisson's possible visit to, 86, 88. + +Omtou tribe of Indians, 131 n. + +Oneida Indians, the, 34, 364. + +Onondaga, settlement at, 46; Iroquois conspiracy against, 46-48; +garrison besieged at, 55-63; escape of French from, 64-67. + +Onondaga tribe, the, 34; Jesuit mission among (1656), 46-47; +treacherous conduct of, toward Christian Hurons, 50-54. + +Orange. _See_ Albany. + +Orimha, Radisson's Mohawk name, 16. + +Oudiette, Jean, 154 n. + +"Ouinipeg," Lake, 69, 71. + +Outanlouby Indians, the, 364. + + +P + +Pacific Ocean, Mackenzie's expedition reaches the, 302-303; Lewis and +Clark's expedition reaches, 327. + +Papinachois Indians, the, 363. + +Parkman, Francis, cited, 5 n., 19 n., 46 n., 87 n., 96 n. + +_Pays d'en Haut_, "Up-Country," defined, 201 n. + +Peace River, the, 281; exploration of, 287; Mackenzie reaches the +source of the, 294. + +Pemmican, defined, 223. + +"People of the Fire," the, Mascoutin Indians, 80 n., 86 n., 100, 131 n. + +Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior, the, 112. + +Piescaret, Algonquin chief, 4. + +Pipe of peace, smoking the, 121-123. + +Plains of Abraham, named for Abraham Martin, 45 n. + +Poinsy, M. de, commander at St. Christopher, 353. + +Poissons Blancs (White Fish) Indians, the, 363. + +Poncet, Père, 41. + +Port Nelson, 140, 161-175, 182-186. + +Port Royal, Nova Scotia, Radisson and Groseillers at, 135. + +Prince Maximilian, 226. + +Prince Rupert, patron of French explorers, 138-139, 180; first governor +of Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Prisoners, treatment of, by Iroquois, 15-16, 25-28, 54. + +Prudhomme, Mr. Justice, 88 n. + +Purification, bath of, Indian rite, 14, 268. + + +Q + +Quebec, Iroquois hostages for safety of Onondaga held at, 48, 55-56; +celebration at, on return of Radisson and Groseillers, 99; meeting of +fur traders at (1676), 149; Indian tribes located about, 363. + + +R + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit (the elder), 6 n., 43 n. + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, uncle of the explorer, 43 n. + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, date and place of birth, 6; genealogy of, 6 +n., 43 n.; captured by Iroquois Indians, 9; adopted into Mohawk tribe, +17; escape to Fort Orange (1653), 39-41; proof of Catholicism of, 41 +n.; visits Europe and returns to Three Rivers (1654), 42-44; joins +expedition to Onondaga (1657), 47; besieged by Iroquois throughout +winter, 55-64; saves the garrison and returns to Montreal, 65-67; goes +on trapping and exploring trip to the West (1658), 73-74; reaches Lake +Nipissing and Lake Huron, 78; in winter quarters at Green Bay, 79-80; +crosses present state of Wisconsin and discovers Upper Mississippi, +80-85; explorations to the west and south, 86-89; in Minnesota and +Manitoba, 89-91; encounter with Iroquois at Long Sault of the Ottawa, +94-96; at scene of Dollard's fight of a week before, 96-98; arrival at +Quebec (1660), 99; sets forth on voyage of discovery toward Hudson Bay +(1661), 105; traverses Lake Superior, 111-112; builds fort and winters +west of present Duluth, 113-116; visits the Sioux, 123-124; reaches +Lake Winnipeg, 127; returns to Quebec (1663), 129; bad treatment by +French officials, 130; goes to France to gain his rights, 133-134; +ill-treatment, deception by Rochelle merchant, dealings with Captain +Gillam of Boston, and visit to Boston (1665), 134-136; goes to England, +137-138; marriage with Mary Kirke, 138; formation of Hudson's Bay +Company (1670), 139-140; trading voyage to Port Nelson (1671), 140-141; +recalled to England and poorly treated (1674-1675), 148; receives +commission in French navy (1675-1676), 148; complications between +wife's father and French government, 152; backed by La Chesnaye, +engages in new expedition to Hudson Bay, 152-153; returns to Quebec +(1681) and sails to Hayes River (1682), 153-158; troubles with English +and Boston ships, 161-175; jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, +175-177; unsuccessfully presses claims in France, 179-180; commissioned +by Hudson's Bay Company, 181-182; sails to Hayes River and takes +possession of Fort Bourbon and French furs (1684), 182-185; return to +England, 186-187; annual voyages to Hudson Bay for five years, 188; +distrusted on breaking out of war with France, and neglect in old age, +188-189: consideration of character and career, 189-190. + +_Radisson's Relation_, cited, 9 n., 46 n., 63 n., 80 n., 81 n., 98 n., +99 n., 122, 127, 163 n., 179; language used in, 82; time of writing, +138. + +Ragueneau, Father Paul, 46 n., 47, 48, 50, 51, 52, 53, 59 n., 63 n. + +Rascal Village, Indian camp, 305. + +Red River, first white men on, 219. + +Rhythm as an Indian characteristic, 160 n. + +Ricaree Indians, insolence of, to Lewis and Clark, 311-312. + +Robson, cited, 139, 140, 147, 161, 166. + +Rochelle, Radisson's visit to, in 1654, 43. + +Rocky Mountains, Radisson's nearest approach to the, 89; Pierre de la +Vérendrye reaches the, 233; Lewis's first view of the, 314-315; Lewis +and Clark enter Gates of the, 321. + +Rouen, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353, 357. + +Roy, J. Edmond, cited, 102 n. + +Roy, R., translations of documents, 335. + +Rupert River, the Nemisco renamed the, 139. + + +S + +Sacajawea, squaw guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 321, 326, 332. + +St. Louis, departure of Lewis and Clark's expedition from, 308-309; +return to, 332. + +Saint-Lusson, Sieur de, 142. + +Saint-Pierre, Legardeur de, 236-237. + +Saskatchewan River, exploration of, 229. + +Sautaux Indians, the, 89-90, 92 n., 131 n., 365. + +Scalp dance, the, 12, 14. + +Seneca Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. + +Sioux Indians, the, 69; Radisson and the, 85, 88, 120-124; desire of, +for firearms, 120, 122; location of the, 365. + +Skull-crackers, Indian, defined, 25, 121. + +Slave Lake, Mackenzie on, 282. + +Slave Lake Indians, the, 280, 282, 290. + +Smith, Donald (Lord Strathcona), 275-276. + +Snake Indians, Lewis and Clark make friends with, 323-326. + +Society of One Hundred. _See_ Company of One Hundred Associates. + +Songs, Indian, 159, 160. + +Sturgeons, Radisson's river of, 112. + +Sulte, Benjamin, cited, 4, 5 n., 6 n., 7 n., 19 n., 43 n., 68 n., 76 +n., 86 n., 99 n., 102 n., 139 n., 154 n. + + +T + +Tadoussac (Quebec), Company of, 352. + +Talon, intendant of New France, 7 n., 142-143, 357-358, 360, 367, 368. + +Tanguay, Abbé, 5 n., 19 n., 88 n. + +Tar bed, Mackenzie's discovery of a, in the Arctic, 286. + +Temiscamingue Indians, the, 364. + +Thousand Islands, massacre of Huron captives by Iroquois at, 53-54. + +Three Forks of the Missouri, Lewis and Clark arrive at, 321. + +Three Rivers, population of, 7 n.; in 1654, 44-45; De la Vérendrye born +at, 201; Indians of, 363. + +Touret, Eli Godefroy, French spy, 137. + +Torture, Indian methods of, 15-16, 25-28, 54. + +_Travaille_, defined, 224. + +_Tripe de roches_, defined, 78. + + +V + +Vérendrye. _See_ De la Vérendrye. + +Ville-Marie (Montreal), Indian tribes about, 363-364. + +Voorhis, Mrs. Julia Clark, Clark letters owned by, 312 n. + + +W + +Wampum, significance to Indians, 17. + +War-cry, Indian, sounds representing the, 11 n. + +Waste, viewed by Indians as crime, 60. + +West Indies Company. _See_ Company of the West Indies. + +Windsor, member of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 315-316. + +Winnipeg, Lake, first reports of, 69, 71; Radisson arrives at, 127; +rumours of a tide on, 216; De la Vérendrye on, 216-218. + +Wisconsin, Radisson's travels in, 80-8l, 89. + +Wolf Indians located at Three Rivers, 363. + +Wyandotte Indians, the, 364. + + +Y + +Yellowstone River, exploration of, by Lewis and Clark, 313, 329. + +York (Port Nelson), 140, 161-175, 182-186. + +Young, Sir William, champions Radisson's cause, 180, 181, 188. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. 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C. Laut +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: medium; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.letter {font-size: small } + +P.footnote {text-indent: 0%; + font-size: small } + +P.append1 {font-size: small; + text-indent: 0% } + +P.appendix {font-size: small } + +P.index {font-size: small; + text-indent: 0% } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. C. Laut + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Pathfinders of the West + Being the Thrilling Story of the Adventures of the Men Who + Discovered the Great Northwest: Radisson, La Vérendrye, + Lewis and Clark + +Author: A. C. Laut + +Release Date: April 20, 2006 [EBook #18216] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PATHFINDERS OF THE WEST *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + +</pre> + + +<A NAME="img-front"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-front.jpg" ALT="Stealing from the Fort by Night." BORDER="2" WIDTH="627" HEIGHT="413"> +<H4> +[Frontispiece: Stealing from the Fort by Night.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +Pathfinders of the West +</H1> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEING +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<I> +THE THRILLING STORY OF THE ADVENTURES +<BR> +OF THE MEN WHO DISCOVERED +<BR> +THE GREAT NORTHWEST +</I> +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON, LA VÉRENDRYE, LEWIS AND CLARK +</H3> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BY +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +A. C. LAUT +</H3> + +<BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +AUTHOR OF "LORDS OF THE NORTH," "HERALDS +<BR> +OF EMPIRE," "STORY OF THE TRAPPER" +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +<I> +ILLUSTRATIONS BY +<BR> +REMINGTON, GOODWIN, MARCHAND +<BR> +AND OTHERS +</I> +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +NEW YORK +<BR> +GROSSET & DUNLAP +<BR> +PUBLISHERS +</H3> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H5 ALIGN="center"> +COPYRIGHT, 1904, +<BR> +By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. +<BR><BR><BR> +Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1904. Reprinted February, +1906. +</H5> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +WILDWOOD PLACE, WASSAIC, N.Y. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +August 15, 1904. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +DEAR MR. SULTE: +</P> + +<P> +A few years ago, when I was a resident of the Far West and tried to trace +the paths of early explorers, I found that all authorities—first, +second, and third rate—alike referred to one source of information for +their facts. The name in the tell-tale footnote was invariably your own. +</P> + +<P> +While I assume <I>all</I> responsibility for upsetting the apple cart of +established opinions by this book, will you permit me to dedicate it to +you as a slight token of esteem to the greatest living French-Canadian +historian, from whom we have all borrowed and to whom few of us have +rendered the tribute due? +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Faithfully, +<BR> +AGNES C. LAUT. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +MR. BENJAMIN SULTE,<BR> +PRESIDENT ROYAL SOCIETY,<BR> +OTTAWA, CANADA.<BR> +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE GREAT NORTHWEST<BR> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +I love thee, O thou great, wild, rugged land<BR> +Of fenceless field and snowy mountain height,<BR> +Uprearing crests all starry-diademed<BR> +Above the silver clouds! A sea of light<BR> +Swims o'er thy prairies, shimmering to the sight<BR> +A rolling world of glossy yellow wheat<BR> +That runs before the wind in billows bright<BR> +As waves beneath the beat of unseen feet,<BR> +And ripples far as eye can see--as far and fleet!<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Here's chances for every man! The hands that work<BR> +Become the hands that rule! Thy harvests yield<BR> +Only to him who toils; and hands that shirk<BR> +Must empty go! And here the hands that wield<BR> +The sceptre work! O glorious golden field!<BR> +O bounteous, plenteous land of poet's dream!<BR> +O'er thy broad plain the cloudless sun ne'er wheeled<BR> +But some dull heart was brightened by its gleam<BR> +To seize on hope and realize life's highest dream!<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Thy roaring tempests sweep from out the north--<BR> +Ten thousand cohorts on the wind's wild mane--<BR> +No hand can check thy frost-steeds bursting forth<BR> +To gambol madly on the storm-swept plain!<BR> +Thy hissing snow-drifts wreathe their serpent train,<BR> +With stormy laughter shrieks the joy of might--<BR> +Or lifts, or falls, or wails upon the wane--<BR> +Thy tempests sweep their stormy trail of white<BR> +Across the deepening drifts--and man must die, or fight!<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Yes, man must sink or fight, be strong or die!<BR> +That is thy law, O great, free, strenuous West!<BR> +The weak thou wilt make strong till he defy<BR> +Thy bufferings; but spacious prairie breast<BR> +Will never nourish weakling as its guest!<BR> +He must grow strong or die! Thou givest all<BR> +An equal chance--to work, to do their best--<BR> +Free land, free hand--thy son must work or fall<BR> +Grow strong or die! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call!<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +And so I love thee, great, free, rugged land<BR> +Of cloudless summer days, with west-wind croon,<BR> +And prairie flowers all dewy-diademed,<BR> +And twilights long, with blood-red, low-hung moon<BR> +And mountain peaks that glisten white each noon<BR> +Through purple haze that veils the western sky--<BR> +And well I know the meadow-lark's far rune<BR> +As up and down he lilts and circles high<BR> +And sings sheer joy--be strong, be free; be strong or die!<BR> +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap00b"></A> +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Foreword +</H2> + +<BR> + +<P> +The question will at once occur why no mention is made of Marquette and +Jolliet and La Salle in a work on the pathfinders of the West. The +simple answer is—they were <I>not</I> pathfinders. Contrary to the notions +imbibed at school, and repeated in all histories of the West, +Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle did not discover the vast region +beyond the Great Lakes. Twelve years before these explorers had +thought of visiting the land which the French hunter designated as the +<I>Pays d'en Haut</I>, the West had already been discovered by the most +intrepid <I>voyageurs</I> that France produced,—men whose wide-ranging +explorations exceeded the achievements of Cartier and Champlain and La +Salle put together. +</P> + +<P> +It naturally rouses resentment to find that names revered for more than +two centuries as the first explorers of the Great Northwest must give +place to a name almost unknown. It seems impossible that at this late +date history should have to be rewritten. Such is the fact <I>if we +would have our history true</I>. Not Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle +discovered the West, but two poor adventurers, who sacrificed all +earthly possessions to the enthusiasm for discovery, and incurred such +bitter hostility from the governments of France and England that their +names have been hounded to infamy. These were Sieur Pierre Esprit +Radisson and Sieur Médard Chouart Groseillers, fur traders of Three +Rivers, Quebec. [1] +</P> + +<P> +The explanation of the long oblivion obscuring the fame of these two +men is very simple. Radisson and Groseillers defied, first New France, +then Old France, and lastly England. While on friendly terms with the +church, they did not make their explorations subservient to the +propagation of the faith. In consequence, they were ignored by both +Church and State. The <I>Jesuit Relations</I> repeatedly refer to two young +Frenchmen who went beyond Lake Michigan to a "Forked River" (the +Mississippi), among the Sioux and other Indian tribes that used coal +for fire because wood did not grow large enough on the prairie. +Contemporaneous documents mention the exploits of the young Frenchmen. +The State Papers of the Marine Department, Paris, contain numerous +references to Radisson and Groseillers. But, then, the <I>Jesuit +Relations</I> were not accessible to scholars, let alone the general +public, until the middle of the last century, when a limited edition +was reprinted of the Cramoisy copies published at the time the priests +sent their letters home to France. The contemporaneous writings of +Marie de l'Incarnation, the Abbé Belmont, and Dollier de Casson were +not known outside the circle of French savants until still later; and +it is only within recent years that the Archives of Paris have been +searched for historical data. Meantime, the historians of France and +England, animated by the hostility of their respective governments, +either slurred over the discoveries of Radisson and Groseillers +entirely, or blackened their memories without the slightest regard to +truth. It would, in fact, take a large volume to contradict and +disprove half the lies written of these two men. Instead of consulting +contemporaneous documents,—which would have entailed both cost and +labor,—modern writers have, unfortunately, been satisfied to serve up +a rehash of the detractions written by the old historians. In 1885 +came a discovery that punished such slovenly methods by practically +wiping out the work of the pseudo-historians. There was found in the +British Museum, the Bodleian Library, and Hudson's Bay House, London, +unmistakably authentic record of Radisson's voyages, written by +himself. The Prince Society of Boston printed two hundred and fifty +copies of the collected Journals. The Canadian Archives published the +journals of the two last voyages. Francis Parkman was too +conscientious to ignore the importance of the find; but his history of +the West was already written. He made what reparation he could to +Radisson's memory by appending a footnote to subsequent editions of two +of his books, stating that Radisson and Groseillers' travels took them +to the "Forked River" before 1660. Some ten other lines are all that +Mr. Parkman relates of Radisson; and the data for these brief +references have evidently been drawn from Radisson's enemies, for the +explorer is called "a renegade." It is necessary to state this, +because some writers, whose zeal for criticism was much greater than +their qualifications, wanted to know why any one should attempt to +write Radisson's life when Parkman had already done so. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson's life reads more like a second Robinson Crusoe than sober +history. For that reason I have put the corroborative evidence in +footnotes, rather than cumber the movement of the main theme. I am +sorry to have loaded the opening parts with so many notes; but +Radisson's voyages change the relative positions of the other explorers +so radically that proofs must be given. The footnotes are for the +student and may be omitted by the general reader. The study of +Radisson arose from, using his later exploits on Hudson Bay as the +subject of the novel, <I>Heralds of Empire</I>. On the publication of that +book, several letters came from the Western states asking how far I +thought Radisson had gone beyond Lake Superior before he went to Hudson +Bay. Having in mind—I am sorry to say—mainly the early records of +Radisson's enemies, I at first answered that I thought it very +difficult to identify the discoverer's itinerary beyond the Great +Lakes. So many letters continued to come on the subject that I began +to investigate contemporaneous documents. The path followed by the +explorer west of the Great Lakes—as given by Radisson himself—is here +written. Full corroboration of all that Radisson relates is to be +found—as already stated—in chronicles written at the period of his +life and in the State Papers. Copies of these I have in my possession. +Samples of the papers bearing on Radisson's times, copied from the +Marine Archives, will be found in the Appendix. One must either accept +the explorer's word as conclusive,—even when he relates his own +trickery,—or in rejecting his journal also reject as fictions the +<I>Jesuit Relations</I>, the <I>Marine Archives</I>, <I>Dollier de Casson</I>, <I>Marie +de l'Incarnation</I>, and the <I>Abbé Belmont</I>, which record the same events +as Radisson. In no case has reliance been placed on second-hand +chronicles. Oldmixon and Charlevoix must both have written from +hearsay; therefore, though quoted in the footnotes, they are not given +as conclusive proof. The only means of identifying Radisson's routes +are (1) by his descriptions of the countries, (2) his notes of the +Indian tribes; so that personal knowledge of the territory is +absolutely essential in following Radisson's narrative. All the +regions traversed by Radisson—the Ottawa, the St. Lawrence, the Great +Lakes, Labrador, and the Great Northwest—I have visited, some of them +many times, except the shores of Hudson Bay, and of that region I have +some hundreds of photographs. +</P> + +<P> +Material for the accounts of the other pathfinders of the West has been +drawn directly from the different explorers' journals. +</P> + +<P> +For historical matter I wish to express my indebtedness to Dr. N. E. +Dionne of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec, whose splendid sketch of +Radisson and Groseillers, read before the Royal Society of Canada, does +much to redeem the memory of the discoverers from ignominy; to Dr. +George Bryce of Winnipeg, whose investigation of Hudson's Bay Archives +adds a new chapter to Radisson's life; to Mr. Benjamin Sulte of Ottawa, +whose destructive criticism of inaccuracies in old and modern records +has done so much to stop people writing history out of their heads and +to put research on an honest basis; and to M. Edouard Richard for +scholarly advice relating to the Marine Archives, which he has +exploited so thoroughly. For transcripts and archives now out of +print, thanks are due Mr. L. P. Sylvain of the Parliamentary Library, +Ottawa, the officials of the Archives Department, Ottawa, Mr. F. C. +Wurtele of Quebec, Professor Andrew Baird of Winnipeg, Mr. Alfred +Matthews of the Prince Society, Boston, the Hon. Jacob V. Brower and +Mr. Warren Upham of St. Paul. Mr. Lawrence J. Burpee of Ottawa was so +good as to give me a reading of his exhaustive notes on La Vérendrye +and of data found on the Radisson family. To Mrs. Fred Paget of +Ottawa, the daughter of a Hudson's Bay Company officer, and to Mr. and +Mrs. C. C. Farr of the Northern Ottawa, I am indebted for interesting +facts on life in the fur posts. Miss Talbot of Winnipeg obtained from +retired officers of the Hudson's Bay Company a most complete set of +photographs relating to the fur trade. To her and to those officers +who loaned old heirlooms to be photographed, I beg to express my +cordial appreciation. And the thanks of all who write on the North are +permanently due Mr. C. C. Chipman, Chief Commissioner of the Hudson's +Bay Company, for unfailing courtesy in extending information. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +WILDWOOD PLACE, +<BR> +WASSAIC, N.Y. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] I of course refer to the West as beyond the Great Lakes; for +Nicotet, in 1634, and two nameless Frenchmen—servants of Jean de +Lauzon—in 1654, had been beyond the Sault. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Just as this volume was going to the printer, I received a copy of the +very valuable Minnesota <I>Memoir</I>, Vol. VI, compiled by the Hon. J. V. +Brower of St. Paul, to whom my thanks are due for this excellent +contribution to Western annals. It may be said that the authors of +this volume have done more than any other writers to vindicate Radisson +and Groseillers as explorers of the West. The very differences of +opinion over the regions visited establish the fact that Radisson <I>did</I> +explore parts of Minnesota. I have purposely avoided trying to say +<I>what</I> parts of Minnesota he exploited, because, it seems to me, the +controversy is futile. Radisson's memory has been the subject of +controversy from the time of his life. The controversy—first between +the governments of France and England, subsequently between the French +and English historians—has eclipsed the real achievements of Radisson. +To me it seems non-essential as to whether Radisson camped on an island +in the Mississippi, or only visited the region of that island. The +fact remains that he discovered the Great Northwest, meaning by that +the region west of the Mississippi. The same dispute has obscured his +explorations of Hudson Bay, French writers maintaining that he went +overland to the North and put his feet in the waters of the bay, the +English writers insisting that he only crossed over the watershed +toward Hudson Bay. Again, the fact remains that he did what others had +failed to do—discovered an overland route to the bay. I am sorry that +Radisson is accused in this <I>Memoir</I> of intentionally falsifying his +relations in two respects, (1) in adding a fanciful year to the +1658-1660 voyage; (2) in saying that he had voyaged down the +Mississippi to Mexico. (1) Internal evidence plainly shows that +Radisson's first four voyages were written twenty years afterward, when +he was in London, and not while on the voyage across the Atlantic with +Cartwright, the Boston commissioner. It is the most natural thing in +the world that Radisson, who had so often been to the wilds, should +have mixed his dates. Every slip as to dates is so easily checked by +contemporaneous records—which, themselves, need to be checked—that it +seems too bad to accuse Radisson of wilfully lying in the matter. When +Radisson lied it was to avoid bloodshed, and not to exalt himself. If +he had had glorification of self in mind, he would not have set down +his own faults so unblushingly; for instance, where he deceives M. +Colbert of Paris. (2) Radisson does not try to give the impression +that he went to Mexico. The sense of the context is that he met an +Indian tribe—Illinois, Mandans, Omahas, or some other—who lived next +to another tribe who told <I>of</I> the Spaniards. I feel almost sure that +the scholarly Mr. Benjamin Sulte is right in his letter to me when he +suggests that Radisson's manuscript has been mixed by transposition of +pages or paragraphs, rather than that Radisson himself was confused in +his account. At the same time every one of the contributors to the +Minnesota <I>Memoir</I> deserves the thanks of all who love <I>true</I> history. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ADDENDUM +</H3> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Since the above foreword was written, the contents of this volume have +appeared serially in four New York magazines. The context of the book +was slightly abridged in these articles, so that a very vital +distinction—namely, the difference between what is given as in +dispute, and what is given as incontrovertible fact—was lost; but what +was my amusement to receive letters from all parts of the West all but +challenging me to a duel. One wants to know "how a reputable author +dare" suggest that Radisson's voyages be taken as authentic. There is +no "dare" about it. It is a fact. For any "reputable" historian to +suggest—as two recently have—that Radisson's voyages are a +fabrication, is to stamp that historian as a pretender who has not +investigated a single record contemporaneous with Radisson's life. One +cannot consult documents contemporaneous with his life and not learn +instantly that he was a very live fact of the most troublesome kind the +governments of France and England ever had to accept. That is why it +impresses me as a presumption that is almost comical for any modern +writer to condescend to say that he "accepts" or "rejects" this or that +part of Radisson's record. If he "rejects" Radisson, he also rejects +the <I>Marine Archives of Paris</I>, and the <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, which are +the recognized sources of our early history. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Another correspondent furiously denounces Radisson as a liar because he +mixes his dates of the 1660 trip. It would be just as reasonable to +call La Salle a liar because there are discrepancies in the dates of +his exploits, as to call Radisson a liar for the slips in his dates. +When the mistakes can be checked from internal evidence, one is hardly +justified in charging falsification. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +A third correspondent is troubled by the reference to the Mascoutin +Indians being <I>beyond</I> the Mississippi. State documents establish this +fact. I am not responsible for it; and Radisson could not circle +west-northwest from the Mascoutins to the great encampments of the +Sioux without going far west of the Mississippi. Even if the Jesuits +make a slip in referring to the Sioux's use of some kind of coal for +fire because there was no wood on the prairie, and really mean turf or +buffalo refuse,—which I have seen the Sioux use for fire,—the fact is +that only the tribes far west of the Mississippi habitually used such +substitutes for wood. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +My Wisconsin correspondents I have offended by saying that Radisson +went beyond the Wisconsin; my Minnesota friends, by saying that he went +beyond Minnesota; and my Manitoba co-workers of past days, by +suggesting that he ever went beyond Manitoba. The fact remains that +when we try to identify Radisson's voyages, we must take his own +account of his journeyings; and that account establishes him as the +Discoverer of the Northwest. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +For those who know, I surely do not need to state that there is no +picture of Radisson extant, and that some of the studies of his life +are just as genuine (?) as alleged old prints of his likeness. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap00c"></A> +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART ONE +<BR><BR> +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO EXPLORE THE WEST, <BR> +THE NORTHWEST, AND THE NORTH +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap01"> +CHAPTER I +<BR> +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley—In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes—He is overtaken in Sight of Home—Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him—His Escape +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap02"> +CHAPTER II +<BR> +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission—He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands—Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War—Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap03"> +CHAPTER III +<BR> +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Discovery of the Great Northwest—Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest—Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West—Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi—The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa—Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap04"> +CHAPTER IV +<BR> +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy—It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North—When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits—In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight—They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap05"> +CHAPTER V +<BR> +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers—Entangled in +Lawsuits, the Two French Explorers go to England—The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company—Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue—Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap06"> +CHAPTER VI +<BR> +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay—Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company—How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap07"> +CHAPTER VII +<BR> +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune—Reëngaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age—His Character +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART TWO +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA, BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF +THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE VALLEY OF THE +SASKATCHEWAN +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap08"> +CHAPTER VIII +<BR> +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +M. de la Vérendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent—Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers—His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies—The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART THREE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC +CIRCLE AND ATHABASCA REGION +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap09"> +CHAPTER IX +<BR> +SAMUEL HEARNE +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and +Northwest Passage—Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton—The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle—Discovery of the Athabasca Country—Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French—Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART FOUR +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES—HOW MACKENZIE CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES +AND LEWIS AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap10"> +CHAPTER X +<BR> +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the Question of a +Northwest Passage +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap11"> +CHAPTER XI +<BR> +LEWIS AND CLARK +</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend +the Columbia to the Pacific—Exciting Adventures on the Cañons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone—Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap12"> +APPENDIX +</A> +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap13"> +INDEX +</A> +</H3> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +ILLUSTRATIONS +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-front"> +Stealing from the Fort by Night . . . . . . _Frontispiece_ +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-002"> +Map of the Great Fur Country +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-005"> +Three Rivers in 1757 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-014"> +Map of the Iroquois Country in the Days of Radisson +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-032"> +Albany from an Old Print +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-037"> +The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-041"> +Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in Holland +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-043"> +One of the Earliest Maps of the Great Lakes +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-050"> +Paddling past Hostiles +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-056"> +Jogues, the Jesuit Missionary, who was tortured by the Mohawks +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-061"> +Château de Ramezay, Montreal +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-070"> +A Cree Brave, with the Wampum String +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-081"> +An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-083"> +Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in Montreal +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-095"> +Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-101"> +Montreal in 1760 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-108"> +Château St. Louis, Quebec, 1669 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-120"> +A Parley on the Plains +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-134"> +Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three Rivers +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-151"> +Skin for Skin, Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay Company +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-163"> +Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from + Tea-chests at York Factory +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-187"> +Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower + Fort Garry, Red River +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-194"> +Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-196"> +Fights at the Foothills of the Rockies, between Crows and Snakes +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-199"> +Each Man landed with Pack on his Back and trotted away over Portages +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-200"> +A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-207"> +A Group of Cree Indians +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-212"> +The Soldiers marched out from Mount Royal for the Western Sea +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-217"> +Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca River +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-220"> +The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-223"> +Hungry Hall, 1870 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-228"> +A Monarch of the Plains +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-231"> +Fur Traders towed down the Saskatchewan in the Summer of 1900 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-236"> +Tepees dotted the Valley +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-242"> +An Eskimo Belle +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-248"> +Samuel Hearne +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-250"> +Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-258"> +Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-262"> +Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-266"> +Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's drawing, 1733-1747 +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-270"> +Fort Prince of Wales +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-271"> +Beaver Coin of the Hudson's Bay Company +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-276"> +Alexander Mackenzie +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-278"> +Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for the + Value of Three Beaver Skins +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-281"> +Quill and Beadwork on Buckskin +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-283"> +Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake Superior +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-286"> +Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-290"> +Slave Lake Indians +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-301"> +Good Hope, Mackenzie River, Hudson's Bay Company Fort +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-306"> +The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight Sun +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-309"> +Captain Meriwether Lewis +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-310"> +Captain William Clark +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-314"> +Tracking up Stream +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-316"> +Typical Mountain Trapper +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-317"> +The Discovery of the Great Falls +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-319"> +Fighting a Grizzly +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-320"> +Packer carrying Goods across Portage +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-322"> +Spying on Enemy's Fort +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-324"> +Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-328"> +On Guard +</A> +</H3> + +<H3> +<A HREF="#img-330"> +Indians of the Up-country or Pays d'en Haut +</A> +</H3> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +PART I +</H2> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON +</H3> + + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO +EXPLORE THE WEST, THE NORTHWEST, +AND THE NORTH +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="img-002"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-002.jpg" ALT="Map of the Great Fur Company." BORDER="2" WIDTH="635" HEIGHT="406"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Map of the Great Fur Company.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Pathfinders of the West +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER I +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1651-1653 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley—In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes—He is overtaken in Sight of Home—Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him—His Escape +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Early one morning in the spring of 1652 three young men left the little +stockaded fort of Three Rivers, on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, +for a day's hunting in the marshes of Lake St. Peter. On one side were +the forested hills, purple with the mists of rising vapor and still +streaked with white patches of snow where the dense woods shut out the +sunlight. On the other lay the silver expanse of the St. Lawrence, +more like a lake than a river, with mile on mile southwestward of +rush-grown marshes, where plover and curlew and duck and wild geese +flocked to their favorite feeding-grounds three hundred years ago just +as they do to-day. Northeastward, the three mouths of the St. Maurice +poured their spring flood into the St. Lawrence. +</P> + +<P> +The hunters were very young. Only hunters rash with the courage of +untried youth would have left the shelter of the fort walls when all +the world knew that the Iroquois had been lying in ambush round the +little settlement of Three Rivers day and night for the preceding year. +Not a week passed but some settler working on the outskirts of Three +Rivers was set upon and left dead in his fields by marauding Iroquois. +The tortures suffered by Jogues, the great Jesuit missionary who had +been captured by the Iroquois a few years before, were still fresh in +the memory of every man, woman, and child in New France. It was from +Three Rivers that Piescaret, the famous Algonquin chief who could +outrun a deer, had set out against the Iroquois, turning his snowshoes +back to front, so that the track seemed to lead north when he was +really going south, and then, having thrown his pursuers off the trail, +coming back on his own footsteps, slipping up stealthily on the +Iroquois that were following the false scent, and tomahawking the +laggards.[1] It was from Three Rivers that the Mohawks had captured +the Algonquin girl who escaped by slipping off the thongs that bound +her. Stepping over the prostrate forms of her sleeping guards, such a +fury of revenge possessed her that she seized an axe and brained the +nearest sleeper, then eluded her pursuers by first hiding in a hollow +tree and afterward diving under the debris of a beaver dam. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-005"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-005.jpg" ALT="Three Rivers in 1757." BORDER="2" WIDTH="377" HEIGHT="285"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Three Rivers in 1757.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +These things were known to every inhabitant of Three Rivers. Farmers +had flocked into the little fort and could venture back to their fields +only when armed with a musket.[2] Yet the three young hunters rashly +left the shelter of the fort walls and took the very dangerous path +that led between the forests and the water. One of the young men was +barely in his seventeenth year.[3] This was Pierre Esprit Radisson, +from St. Malo, the town of the famous Cartier. Young Radisson had only +come to New France the year before, and therefore could not realize the +dangers of Indian warfare. Like boys the world over, the three went +along, boasting how they would fight if the Indians came. One skirted +the forest, on the watch for Iroquois, the others kept to the water, on +the lookout for game. About a mile from Three Rivers they encountered +a herdsman who warned them to keep out from the foot of the hills. +Things that looked like a multitude of heads had risen out of the earth +back there, he said, pointing to the forests. That set the young +hunters loading their pistols and priming muskets. It must also have +chilled their zest; for, shooting some ducks, one of the young men +presently declared that he had had enough—he was going back. With +that daring which was to prove both the lodestar and the curse of his +life, young Radisson laughed to scorn the sudden change of mind. +Thereupon the first hunter was joined by the second, and the two went +off in high dudgeon. With a laugh, Pierre Radisson marched along +alone, foreshadowing his after life,—a type of every pathfinder facing +the dangers of the unknown with dauntless scorn, an immortal type of +the world-hero. +</P> + +<P> +Shooting at every pace and hilarious over his luck, Radisson had +wandered some nine miles from the fort, when he came to a stream too +deep to ford and realized that he already had more game than he could +possibly carry. Hiding in hollow trees what he could not bring back, +he began trudging toward Three Rivers with a string of geese, ducks, +and odd teal over his shoulders, Wading swollen brooks and scrambling +over windfalls, he retraced his way without pause till he caught sight +of the town chapel glimmering in the sunlight against the darkening +horizon above the river. He was almost back where his comrades had +left him; so he sat down to rest. The cowherd had driven his cattle +back to Three Rivers.[4] The river came lapping through the rushes. +There was a clacking of wild-fowl flocking down to their marsh nests; +perhaps a crane flopped through the reeds; but Radisson, who had +laughed the nervous fears of the others to scorn, suddenly gave a start +at the lonely sounds of twilight. Then he noticed that his pistols +were water-soaked. Emptying the charges, he at once reloaded, and with +characteristic daring crept softly back to reconnoitre the woods. +Dodging from tree to tree, he peered up and down the river. Great +flocks of ducks were swimming on the water. That reassured him, for +the bird is more alert to alarm than man. The fort was almost within +call. Radisson determined to have a shot at such easy quarry; but as +he crept through the grass toward the game, he almost stumbled over +what rooted him to the spot with horror. Just as they had fallen, +naked and scalped, with bullet and hatchet wounds all over their +bodies, lay his comrades of the morning, dead among the rushes. +Radisson was too far out to get back to the woods. Stooping, he tried +to grope to the hiding of the rushes. As he bent, half a hundred heads +rose from the grasses, peering which way he might go. They were +behind, before, on all sides—his only hope was a dash for the +cane-grown river, where he might hide by diving and wading, till +darkness gave a chance for a rush to the fort. Slipping bullet and +shot in his musket as he ran, and ramming down the paper, hoping +against hope that he had not been seen, he dashed through the +brushwood. A score of guns crashed from the forest.[5] Before he +realized the penalty that the Iroquois might exact for such an act, he +had fired back; but they were upon him. He was thrown down and +disarmed. When he came giddily to his senses, he found himself being +dragged back to the woods, where the Iroquois flaunted the fresh scalps +of his dead friends. Half drawn, half driven, he was taken to the +shore. Here, a flotilla of canoes lay concealed where he had been +hunting wild-fowl but a few hours before. Fires were kindled, and the +crotched sticks driven in the ground to boil the kettle for the evening +meal. The young Frenchman was searched, stripped, and tied round the +waist with a rope, the Indians yelling and howling like so many wolves +all the while till a pause was given their jubilation by the alarm of a +scout that the French and Algonquins were coming. In a trice, the fire +was out and covered. A score of young braves set off to reconnoitre. +Fifty remained at the boats; but if Radisson hoped for a rescue, he was +doomed to disappointment. The warriors returned. Seventy Iroquois +gathered round a second fire for the night. The one predominating +passion of the savage nature is bravery. Lying in ambush, they had +heard this French youth laugh at his comrades' fears. In defiance of +danger, they had seen him go hunting alone. After he had heard an +alarm, he had daringly come out to shoot at the ducks. And, then, boy +as he was, when attacked he had instantly fired back at numerous enough +enemies to have intimidated a score of grown men. There is not the +slightest doubt it was Radisson's bravery that now saved him from the +fate of his companions. +</P> + +<P> +His clothes were returned. While the evening meal was boiling, young +warriors dressed and combed the Frenchman's hair after the manner of +braves. They daubed his cheeks with war-paint; and when they saw that +their rancid meats turned him faint, they boiled meat in clean water +and gave him meal browned on burning sand.[6] He did not struggle to +escape, so he was now untied. That night he slept between two warriors +under a common blanket, through which he counted the stars. For fifty +years his home was to be under the stars. It is typically Radisson +when he could add: "I slept a sound sleep; for they wakened me upon the +breaking of the day." In the morning they embarked in thirty-seven +canoes, two Indians in each boat, with Radisson tied to the cross-bar +of one, the scalps lying at his feet. Spreading out on the river, they +beat their paddles on the gunwales of the canoes, shot off guns, and +uttered the shrill war-cry—"Ah-oh! Ah-oh! Ah-oh!" [7] Lest this +were not sufficient defiance to the penned-up fort on the river bank, +the chief stood up in his canoe, signalled silence, and gave three +shouts. At once the whole company answered till the hills rang; and +out swung the fleet of canoes with more shouting and singing and firing +of guns, each paddle-stroke sounding the death knell to the young +Frenchman's hopes. +</P> + +<P> +By sunset they were among the islands at the mouth of the Richelieu, +where muskrats scuttled through the rushes and wild-fowl clouded the +air. The south shore of Lake St. Peter was heavily forested; the +north, shallow. The lake was flooded with spring thaw, and the Mohawks +could scarcely find camping-ground among the islands. The young +prisoner was deathly sick from the rank food that he had eaten and +heart-sick from the widening distance between himself and Three Rivers. +Still, they treated him kindly, saying, "Chagon! Chagon!—Be merry! +Cheer up!" The fourth day up the Richelieu, he was embarked without +being fastened to the cross-bar, and he was given a paddle. Fresh to +the work, Radisson made a labor of his oar. The Iroquois took the +paddle and taught him how to give the light, deft, feather strokes of +the Indian canoeman. On the river they met another band of warriors, +and the prisoner was compelled to show himself a trophy of victory and +to sing songs for his captors. That evening the united bands kindled +an enormous campfire and with the scalps of the dead flaunting from +spear heads danced the scalp dance, reënacting in pantomime all the +episodes of the massacre to the monotonous chant-chant, of a recitative +relating the foray. At the next camping-ground, Radisson's hair was +shaved in front and decorated on top with the war-crest of a brave. +Having translated the white man into a savage, they brought him one of +the tin looking-glasses used by Indians to signal in the sun. "I, +viewing myself all in a pickle," relates Radisson, "smeared with red +and black, covered with such a top, … could not but fall in love +with myself, if I had not had better instructions to shun the sin of +pride." +</P> + +<P> +Radisson saw that apparent compliance with the Mohawks might win him a +chance to escape; so he was the first to arise in the morning, wakening +the others and urging them that it was time to break camp. The stolid +Indians were not to be moved by an audacious white boy. Watching the +young prisoner, the keepers lay still, feigning sleep. Radisson rose. +They made no protest. He wandered casually down to the water side. +One can guess that the half-closed eyelids of his guards opened a +trifle: was the mouse trying to get away from the cat? To the Indians' +amusement, instead of trying to escape, Radisson picked up a spear and +practised tossing it, till a Mohawk became so interested that he jumped +up and taught the young Frenchman the proper throws. That day the +Indians gave him the present of a hunting-knife. North of Lake +Champlain, the river became so turbulent that they were forced to land +and make a <I>portage</I>. Instead of lagging, as captives frequently did +from very fear as they approached nearer and nearer what was almost +certain to mean death-torture in the Iroquois villages—Radisson +hurried over the rocks, helping the older warriors to carry their +packs. At night he was the first to cut wood for the camp fire. +</P> + +<P> +About a week from the time they had left Lake St. Peter, they entered +Lake Champlain. On the shores of the former had been enacted the most +hideous of all Indian customs—the scalp dance. On the shores of the +latter was performed one of the most redeeming rites of Indian warfare. +Round a small pool of water a coppice of branches was interlaced. Into +the water were thrown hot stones till the enclosure was steaming. Here +each warrior took a sweat-bath of purification to prepare for reunion +with his family. Invoking the spirits as they bathed, the warriors +emerged washed—as they thought—of all blood-guilt.[8] +</P> + +<A NAME="img-014"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-014.jpg" ALT="Map of the Iroquois country in the days of Radisson." BORDER="2" WIDTH="384" HEIGHT="338"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Map of the Iroquois country in the days of Radisson.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +In the night shots sounded through the heavy silence of the forest, and +the Mohawks embarked in alarm, compelling their white prisoner to lie +flat in the bottom of the canoe. In the morning when he awakened, he +found the entire band hidden among the rushes of the lake. They spent +several days on Lake Champlain, then glided past wooded mountains down +a calm river to Lake George, where canoes were abandoned and the +warriors struck westward through dense forests to the country of the +Iroquois. Two days from the lake slave women met the returning braves, +and in Radisson's words, "loaded themselves like mules with baggage." +On this woodland march Radisson won golden opinions for himself by two +acts: struck by an insolent young brave, he thrashed the culprit +soundly; seeing an old man staggering under too heavy a load, the white +youth took the burden on his own shoulders. +</P> + +<P> +The return of the warriors to their villages was always celebrated as a +triumph. The tribe marched out to meet them, singing, firing guns, +shouting a welcome, dancing as the Israelites danced of old when +victors returned from battle. Men, women, and children lined up on +each side armed with clubs and whips to scourge the captives. Well for +Radisson that he had won the warriors' favor; for when the time came +for him to run the gantlet of Iroquois <I>diableries</I>, instead of being +slowly led, with trussed arms and shackled feet, he was stripped free +and signalled to run so fast that his tormentors could not hit him. +Shrieks of laughter from the women, shouts of applause from the men, +always greeted the racer who reached the end of the line unscathed. A +captive Huron woman, who had been adopted by the tribe, caught the +white boy as he dashed free of a single blow clear through the lines of +tormentors. Leading him to her cabin, she fed and clothed him. +Presently a band of braves marched up, demanded the surrender of +Radisson, and took him to the Council Lodge of the Iroquois for +judgment. +</P> + +<P> +Old men sat solemnly round a central fire, smoking their calumets in +silence. Radisson was ordered to sit down. A coal of fire was put in +the bowl of the great Council Pipe and passed reverently round the +assemblage. Then the old Huron woman entered, gesticulating and +pleading for the youth's life. The men smoked on silently with deep, +guttural "ho-ho's," meaning "yes, yes, we are pleased." The woman was +granted permission to adopt Radisson as a son. Radisson had won his +end. Diplomacy and courage had saved his life. It now remained to +await an opportunity for escape. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson bent all his energies to become a great hunter. He was given +firearms, and daily hunted with the family of his adoption. It so +happened that the family had lost a son in the wars, whose name had +signified the same as Radisson's—that is, "a stone"; so the Pierre of +Three Rivers became the Orimha of the Mohawks. The Iroquois husband of +the woman who had befriended him gave such a feast to the Mohawk braves +as befitted the prestige of a warrior who had slain nineteen enemies +with his own hand. Three hundred young Mohawks sat down to a collation +of moose nose and beaver tails and bears' paws, served by slaves. To +this banquet Radisson was led, decked out in colored blankets with +garnished leggings and such a wealth of wampum strings hanging from +wrists, neck, hair, and waist that he could scarcely walk. Wampum +means more to the Indian than money to the white man. It represents +not only wealth but social standing, and its value may be compared to +the white man's estimate of pink pearls. Diamond-cutters seldom spend +more than two weeks in polishing a good stone. An Indian would spend +thirty days in perfecting a single bit of shell into fine wampum. +Radisson's friends had ornamented him for the feast in order to win the +respect of the Mohawks for the French boy. Striking his hatchet +through a kettle of sagamite to signify thus would he break peace to +all Radisson's foes, the old Iroquois warrior made a speech to the +assembled guests. The guests clapped their hands and shouted, "Chagon, +Orimha!—Be merry, Pierre!" The Frenchman had been formally adopted as +a Mohawk. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The forests were now painted in all the glories of autumn. All the +creatures of the woodlands shook off the drowsy laziness of summer and +came down from the uplands seeking haunts for winter retreat. Moose +and deer were on the move. Beaver came splashing down-stream to +plaster up their wattled homes before frost. Bear and lynx and marten, +all were restless as the autumn winds instinct with coming storm. This +is the season when the Indian sets out to hunt and fight. Furnished +with clothing, food, and firearms, Radisson left the Mohawk Valley with +three hunters. By the middle of August, the rind of the birch is in +perfect condition for peeling. The first thing the hunters did was to +slit off the bark of a thick-girthed birch and with cedar linings make +themselves a skiff. Then they prepared to lay up a store of meat for +the winter's war-raids. Before ice forms a skim across the still +pools, nibbled chips betray where a beaver colony is at work; so the +hunters began setting beaver traps. One night as they were returning +to their wigwam, there came through the leafy darkness the weird sound +of a man singing. It was a solitary Algonquin captive, who called out +that he had been on the track of a bear since daybreak. He probably +belonged to some well-known Iroquois, for he was welcomed to the +camp-fire. The sight of a face from Three Rivers roused the +Algonquin's memories of his northern home. In the noise of the +crackling fire, he succeeded in telling Radisson, without being +overheard by the Iroquois, that he had been a captive for two years and +longed to escape. +</P> + +<P> +"Do you love the French?" the Algonquin asked Radisson. +</P> + +<P> +"Do you love the Algonquin?" returned Radisson, knowing they were +watched. +</P> + +<P> +"As I do my own nation." Then leaning across to Radisson, +"Brother—white man!—Let us escape! The Three Rivers—it is not far +off! Will you live like a Huron in bondage, or have your liberty with +the French?" Then, lowering his voice, "Let us kill all three this +night when they are asleep!" +</P> + +<P> +From such a way of escape, the French youth held back. The Algonquin +continued to urge him. By this time, Radisson must have heard from +returning Iroquois warriors that they had slain the governor of Three +Rivers, Duplessis-Kerbodot, and eleven other Frenchmen, among whom was +the husband of Radisson's eldest sister, Marguerite.[9] +</P> + +<P> +While Radisson was still hesitating, the suspicious Iroquois demanded +what so much whispering was about; but the alert Algonquin promptly +quieted their fears by trumping up some hunting story. Wearied from +their day's hunt, the three Mohawks slept heavily round the camp-fire. +They had not the least suspicion of danger, for they had stacked their +arms carelessly against the trees of the forest. Terrified lest the +Algonquin should attempt to carry out his threat, Radisson pretended to +be asleep. Rising noiselessly, the Algonquin sat down by the fire. +The Mohawks slept on. The Algonquin gave Radisson a push. The French +boy looked up to see the Algonquin studying the postures of the +sleeping forms. The dying fire glimmered like a blotch of blood under +the trees. Stepping stealthy as a cat over the sleeping men, the +Indian took possession of their firearms. Drawn by a kind of horror, +Radisson had risen. The Algonquin thrust one of the tomahawks into the +French lad's hands and pointed without a word at the three sleeping +Mohawks. Then the Indian began the black work. The Mohawk nearest the +fire never knew that he had been struck, and died without a sound. +Radisson tried to imitate the relentless Algonquin, but, unnerved with +horror, he bungled the blow and lost hold of the hatchet just as it +struck the Mohawk's head. The Iroquois sprang up with a shout that +awakened the third man, but the Algonquin was ready. Radisson's blow +proved fatal. The victim reeled back dead, and the third man was +already despatched by the Algonquin. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson was free. It was a black deed that freed him, but not half so +black as the deeds perpetrated in civilized wars for less cause; and +for that deed Radisson was to pay swift retribution. +</P> + +<P> +Taking the scalps as trophies to attest his word, the Algonquin threw +the bodies into the river. He seized all the belongings of the dead +men but one gun and then launched out with Radisson on the river. The +French youth was conscience-stricken. "I was sorry to have been in +such an encounter," he writes, "but it was too late to repent." Under +cover of the night mist and shore foliage, they slipped away with the +current. At first dawn streak, while the mist still hid them, they +landed, carried their canoe to a sequestered spot in the dense forest, +and lay hidden under the upturned skiff all that day, tormented by +swarms of mosquitoes and flies, but not daring to move from +concealment. At nightfall, they again launched down-stream, keeping +always in the shadows of the shore till mist and darkness shrouded +them, then sheering off for mid-current, where they paddled for dear +life. Where camp-fires glimmered on the banks, they glided past with +motionless paddles. Across Lake Champlain, across the Richelieu, over +long <I>portages</I> where every shadow took the shape of an ambushed +Iroquois, for fourteen nights they travelled, when at last with many +windings and false alarms they swept out on the wide surface of Lake +St. Peter in the St. Lawrence. +</P> + +<P> +Within a day's journey of Three Rivers, they were really in greater +danger than they had been in the forests of Lake Champlain. Iroquois +had infested that part of the St. Lawrence for more than a year. The +forest of the south shore, the rush-grown marshes, the wooded islands, +all afforded impenetrable hiding. It was four in the morning when they +reached Lake St. Peter. Concealing their canoe, they withdrew to the +woods, cooked their breakfast, covered the fire, and lay down to sleep. +In a couple of hours the Algonquin impatiently wakened Radisson and +urged him to cross the lake to the north shore on the Three Rivers +side. Radisson warned the Indian that the Iroquois were ever lurking +about Three Rivers. The Indian would not wait till sunset. "Let us +go," he said. "We are past fear. Let us shake off the yoke of these +whelps that have killed so many French and black robes (priests).… +If you come not now that we are so near, I leave you, and will tell the +governor you were afraid to come." +</P> + +<P> +Radisson's judgment was overruled by the impatient Indian. They pushed +their skiff out from the rushes. The water lay calm as a sea of +silver. They paddled directly across to get into hiding on the north +shore. Halfway across Radisson, who was at the bow, called out that he +saw shadows on the water ahead. The Indian stood up and declared that +the shadow was the reflection of a flying bird. Barely had they gone a +boat length when the shadows multiplied. They were the reflections of +Iroquois ambushed among the rushes. Heading the canoe back for the +south shore, they raced for their lives. The Iroquois pursued in their +own boats. About a mile from the shore, the strength of the fugitives +fagged. Knowing that the Iroquois were gaining fast, Radisson threw +out the loathsome scalps that the Algonquin had persisted in carrying. +By that strange fatality which seems to follow crime, instead of +sinking, the hairy scalps floated on the surface of the water back to +the pursuing Iroquois. Shouts of rage broke from the warriors. +Radisson's skiff was so near the south shore that he could see the +pebbled bottom of the lake; but the water was too deep to wade and too +clear for a dive, and there was no driftwood to afford hiding. Then a +crash of musketry from the Iroquois knocked the bottom out of the +canoe. The Algonquin fell dead with two bullet wounds in his head and +the canoe gradually filled, settled, and sank, with the young Frenchman +clinging to the cross-bar mute as stone. Just as it disappeared under +water, Radisson was seized, and the dead Algonquin was thrown into the +Mohawk boats. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson alone remained to pay the penalty of a double crime; and he +might well have prayed for the boat to sink. The victors shouted their +triumph. Hurrying ashore, they kindled a great fire. They tore the +heart from the dead Algonquin, transfixed the head on a pike, and cast +the mutilated body into the flames for those cannibal rites in which +savages thought they gained courage by eating the flesh of their +enemies. Radisson was rifled of clothes and arms, trussed at the +elbows, roped round the waist, and driven with blows back to the +canoes. There were other captives among the Mohawks. As the canoes +emerged from the islands, Radisson counted one hundred and fifty +Iroquois warriors, with two French captives, one white woman, and +seventeen Hurons. Flaunting from the canoe prows were the scalps of +eleven Algonquins. The victors fired off their muskets and shouted +defiance until the valley rang. As the seventy-five canoes turned up +the Richelieu River for the country of the Iroquois, hope died in the +captive Hurons and there mingled with the chant of the Mohawks' +war-songs, the low monotonous dirge of the prisoners:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"If I die, I die valiant!<BR> +I go without fear<BR> +To that land where brave men<BR> +Have gone long before me--<BR> +If I die, I die valiant."<BR> +</P> + +<P> +Twelve miles up the Richelieu, the Iroquois landed to camp. The +prisoners were pegged out on the sand, elbows trussed to knees, each +captive tied to a post. In this fashion they lay every night of +encampment, tortured by sand-flies that they were powerless to drive +off. At the entrance to the Mohawk village, a yoke was fastened to the +captives' necks by placing pairs of saplings one on each side down the +line of prisoners. By the rope round the waist of the foremost +prisoner, they were led slowly between the lines of tormentors. The +captives were ordered to sing. If one refused or showed fear, a Mohawk +struck off a finger with a hatchet, or tore the prisoners' nails out, +or thrust red-hot irons into the muscles of the bound arms.[10] As +Radisson appeared, he was recognized with shouts of rage by the friends +of the murdered Mohawks. Men, women, and children armed with rods and +skull-crackers—leather bags loaded with stones—rushed on the slowly +moving file of prisoners. +</P> + +<P> +"They began to cry from both sides," says Radisson; "we marching one +after another, environed with people to witness that hideous sight, +which seriously may be called the image of Hell in this world." +</P> + +<P> +The prisoners moved mournfully on. The Hurons chanted their death +dirge. The Mohawk women uttered screams of mockery. Suddenly there +broke from the throng of onlookers the Iroquois family that had adopted +Radisson. Pushing through the crew of torturers, the mother caught +Radisson by the hair, calling him by the name of her dead son, "Orimha! +Orimha!" She cut the thongs that bound him to the poles, and wresting +him free shoved him to her husband, who led Radisson to their own lodge. +</P> + +<P> +"Thou fool," cried the old chief, "thou wast my son! Thou makest +thyself an enemy! Thou lovest us not, though we saved thy life! +Wouldst kill me, too?" Then, with a rough push to a mat on the ground, +"Chagon—now, be merry! It's a merry business you've got into! Give +him something to eat!" +</P> + +<P> +Trembling with fear, young Radisson put as bold a face on as he could +and made a show of eating what the squaw placed before him. He was +still relating his adventures when there came a roar of anger from the +Mohawks outside, who had discovered his absence from the line. A +moment later the rabble broke into the lodge. Jostling the friendly +chief aside, the Mohawk warriors carried Radisson back to the orgies of +the torture. The prisoners had been taken out of the stocks and placed +on several scaffoldings. One poor Frenchman fell to the ground bruised +and unable to rise. The Iroquois tore the scalp from his head and +threw him into the fire. That was Radisson's first glimpse of what was +in store for him. Then he, too, stood on the scaffolding among the +other prisoners, who never ceased singing their death song. In the +midst of these horrors—<I>diableries</I>, the Jesuits called them—as if +the very elements had been moved with pity, there burst over the +darkened forest a terrific hurricane of hail and rain. This put out +the fires and drove all the tormentors away but a few impish children, +who stayed to pluck nails from the hands and feet of the captives and +shoot arrows with barbed points at the naked bodies. Every iniquity +that cruelty could invent, these children practised on the captives. +Red-hot spears were brought from the lodge fires and thrust into the +prisoners. The mutilated finger ends were ground between stones. +Thongs were twisted round wrists and ankles, by sticks put through a +loop, till flesh was cut to the bone. As the rain ceased falling, a +woman, who was probably the wife of one of the murdered Mohawks, +brought her little boy to cut one of Radisson's fingers with a flint +stone. The child was too young and ran away from the gruesome task. +</P> + +<P> +Gathering darkness fell over the horrible spectacle. The exhausted +captives, some in a delirium from pain, others unconscious, were led to +separate lodges, or dragged over the ground, and left tied for the +night. The next morning all were returned to the scaffolds, but the +first day had glutted the Iroquois appetite for tortures. The friendly +family was permitted to approach Radisson. The mother brought him food +and told him that the Council Lodge had decided not to kill him for +that day—they wanted the young white warrior for their own ranks; but +even as the cheering hope was uttered, came a brave with a pipe of live +coals, in which he thrust and held Radisson's thumb. No sooner had the +tormentor left than the woman bound up the burn and oiled Radisson's +wounds. He suffered no abuse that day till night, when the soles of +both feet were burned. The majority of the captives were flung into a +great bonfire. On the third day of torture he almost lost his life. +First came a child to gnaw at his fingers. Then a man appeared armed +for the ghastly work of mutilation. Both these the Iroquois father of +Radisson sent away. Once, when none of the friendly family happened to +be near, Radisson was seized and bound for burning, but by chance the +lighted faggot scorched his executioner. A friendly hand slashed the +thongs that bound him, and he was drawn back to the scaffold. +</P> + +<P> +Past caring whether he lived or died, and in too great agony from the +burns of his feet to realize where he was going, Radisson was conducted +to the Great Council. Sixty old men sat on a circle of mats, smoking, +round the central fire. Before them stood seven other captives. +Radisson only was still bound. A gust of wind from the opening lodge +door cleared the smoke for an instant and there entered Radisson's +Indian father, clad in the regalia of a mighty chief. Tomahawk and +calumet and medicine-bag were in his hands. He took his place in the +circle of councillors. Judgment was to be given on the remaining +prisoners. +</P> + +<P> +After passing the Council Pipe from hand to hand in solemn silence, the +sachems prepared to give their views. One arose, and offering the +smoke of incense to the four winds of heaven to invoke witness to the +justice of the trial, gave his opinion on the matter of life or death. +Each of the chiefs in succession spoke. Without any warning whatever, +one chief rose and summarily tomahawked three of the captives. That +had been the sentence. The rest were driven, like sheep for the +shambles, to life-long slavery. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson was left last. His case was important. He had sanctioned the +murder of three Mohawks. Not for a moment since he was recaptured had +they dared to untie the hands of so dangerous a prisoner. Amid deathly +silence, the Iroquois father stood up. Flinging down medicine-bag, fur +robe, wampum belts, and tomahawk, he pointed to the nineteen scars upon +his side, each of which signified an enemy slain by his own hand. Then +the old Mohawk broke into one of those impassioned rhapsodies of +eloquence which delighted the savage nature, calling back to each of +the warriors recollection of victories for the Iroquois. His eyes took +fire from memory of heroic battle. The councillors shook off their +imperturbable gravity and shouted "Ho, ho!" Each man of them had a +memory of his part in those past glories. And as they applauded, there +glided into the wigwam the mother, singing some battle-song of valor, +dancing and gesticulating round and round the lodge in dizzy, +serpentine circlings, that illustrated in pantomime those battles of +long ago. Gliding ghostily from the camp-fire to the outer dark, she +suddenly stopped, stood erect, advanced a step, and with all her might +threw one belt of priceless wampum at the councillors' feet, one +necklace over the prisoner's head. +</P> + +<P> +Before the applause could cease or the councillors' ardor cool, the +adopted brother sprang up, hatchet in hand, and sang of other +victories. Then, with a delicacy of etiquette which white pleaders do +not always observe, father and son withdrew from the Council Lodge to +let the jury deliberate. The old sachems were disturbed. They had +been moved more than their wont. Twenty withdrew to confer. Dusk +gathered deeper and deeper over the forests of the Mohawk Valley. +Tawny faces came peering at the doors, waiting for the decision. +Outsiders tore the skins from the walls of the lodge that they, too, +might witness the memorable trial of the boy prisoner. Sachem after +sachem rose and spoke. Tobacco was sacrificed to the fire-god. Would +the relatives of the dead Mohawks consider the wampum belts full +compensation? Could the Iroquois suffer a youth to live who had joined +the murderers of the Mohawks? Could the Mohawks afford to offend the +great Iroquois chief who was the French youth's friend? As they +deliberated, the other councillors returned, accompanied by all the +members of Radisson's friendly family. Again the father sang and +spoke. This time when he finished, instead of sitting down, he caught +the necklace of wampum from Radisson's neck, threw it at the feet of +the oldest sachem, cut the captive's bonds, and, amid shouts of +applause, set the white youth free. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +One of the incomprehensible things to civilization is how a white man +<I>can</I> degenerate to savagery. Young Radisson's life is an +illustration. In the first transports of his freedom, with the Mohawk +women dancing and singing around him, the men shouting, he leaped up, +oblivious of pain; but when the flush of ecstasy had passed, he sank to +the mat of the Iroquois lodge, and he was unable to use his burned feet +for more than a month. During this time the Iroquois dressed his +wounds, brought him the choice portions of the hunt, gave him clean +clothing purchased at Orange (Albany), and attended to his wants as if +he had been a prince. No doubt the bright eyes of the swarthy young +French boy moved to pity the hearts of the Mohawk mothers, and his +courage had won him favor among the warriors. He was treated like a +king. The women waited upon him like slaves, and the men gave him +presents of firearms and ammunition—the Indian's most precious +possessions. Between flattered vanity and indolence, other white men, +similarly treated, have lost their self-respect. Beckworth, of the +Missouri, became to all intents and purposes a savage; and Bird, of the +Blackfeet, degenerated lower than the Indians. Other Frenchmen +captured from the St. Lawrence, and white women taken from the New +England colonies, became so enamored of savage life that they refused +to leave the Indian lodges when peace had liberated them. Not so +Radisson. Though only seventeen, flattered vanity never caused him to +forget the gratitude he owed the Mohawk family. Though he relates his +life with a frankness that leaves nothing untold, he never at any time +returned treachery for kindness. The very chivalry of the French +nature endangered him all the more. Would he forget his manhood, his +birthright of a superior race, his inheritance of nobility from a +family that stood foremost among the <I>noblesse</I> of New France? +</P> + +<A NAME="img-032"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-032.jpg" ALT="Albany, from an Old Print." BORDER="2" WIDTH="393" HEIGHT="252"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Albany, from an Old Print.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR> + +<P> +The spring of 1653 came with unloosening of the rivers and stirring of +the forest sap and fret of the warrior blood. Radisson's Iroquois +father held great feasts in which he heaved up the hatchet to break the +kettle of sagamite against all enemies. Would Radisson go on the +war-path with the braves, or stay at home with the women and so lose +the respect of the tribe? In the hope of coming again within reach of +Three Rivers, he offered to join the Iroquois in their wars. The +Mohawks were delighted with his spirit, but they feared to lose their +young warrior. Accepting his offer, they refused to let him accompany +them to Quebec, but assigned him to a band of young braves, who were to +raid the border-lands between the Huron country of the Upper Lakes and +the St. Lawrence. This was not what Radisson wanted, but he could not +draw back. There followed months of wild wanderings round the regions +of Niagara. The band of young braves passed dangerous places with +great precipices and a waterfall, where the river was a mile wide and +unfrozen. Radisson was constrained to witness many acts against the +Eries, which must have one of two effects on white blood,—either turn +the white man into a complete savage, or disgust him utterly with +savage life. Leaving the Mohawk village amid a blare of guns and +shouts, the young braves on their maiden venture passed successively +through the lodges of Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas, and Cayugas, where +they were feasted almost to death by the Iroquois Confederacy.[11] +Then they marched to the vast wilderness of snow-padded forests and +heaped windfall between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. +</P> + +<P> +Snow still lay in great drifts under the shadow of hemlock and spruce; +and the braves skimmed forward winged with the noiseless speed of +snow-shoes. When the snow became too soft from thaw for snow-shoes, +they paused to build themselves a skiff. It was too early to peel the +bark off the birch, so they made themselves a dugout of the walnut +tree. The wind changed from north to south, clearing the lakes of ice +and filling the air with the earthy smells of up-bursting growth. +"There was such a thawing," writes Radisson, "ye little brookes flowed +like rivers, which made us embark to wander over that sweet sea." +Lounging in their skiff all day, carried from shore to shore with the +waves, and sleeping round camp-fires on the sand each night, the young +braves luxuriated in all the delights of sunny idleness and spring +life. But this was not war. It was play, and play of the sort that +weans the white man from civilization to savagery. +</P> + +<P> +One day a scout, who had climbed to the top of a tree, espied two +strange squaws. They were of a hostile tribe. The Mohawk bloodthirst +was up as a wolf's at the sight of lambs. In vain Radisson tried to +save the women by warning the Iroquois that if there were women, there +must be men, too, who would exact vengeance for the squaws' death. The +young braves only laid their plans the more carefully for his warning +and massacred the entire encampment. Prisoners were taken, but when +food became scarce they were brutally knocked on the head. These +tribes had never heard guns before, and at the sound of shots fled as +from diabolical enemies. It was an easy matter for the young braves in +the course of a few weeks to take a score of scalps and a dozen +prisoners. At one place more than two hundred beaver were trapped. At +the end of the raid, the booty was equally divided. Radisson asked +that the woman prisoner be given to him; and he saved her from torture +and death on the return to the Mohawks by presenting her as a slave to +his Indian mother. All his other share of booty he gave to the +friendly family. The raid was over. He had failed of his main object +in joining it. He had not escaped. But he had made one important +gain. His valor had reëstablished the confidence of the Indians so +that when they went on a free-booting expedition against the whites of +the Dutch settlements at Orange (Albany), Radisson was taken with them. +Orange, or Albany, consisted at that time of some fifty thatched +log-houses surrounded by a settlement of perhaps a hundred and fifty +farmers. This raid was bloodless. The warriors looted the farmers' +cabins, emptied their cupboards, and drank their beer cellars dry to +the last drop. Once more Radisson kept his head. While the braves +entered Fort Orange roaring drunk, Radisson was alert and sober. A +drunk Indian falls an easy prey in the bartering of pelts. The +Iroquois wanted guns. The Dutch wanted pelts. The whites treated the +savages like kings; and the Mohawks marched from house to house +feasting of the best. Radisson was dressed in garnished buckskin and +had been painted like a Mohawk. Suspecting some design to escape, his +Iroquois friends never left him. The young Frenchman now saw white men +for the first time in almost two years; but the speech that he heard +was in a strange tongue. As Radisson went into the fort, he noticed a +soldier among the Dutch. At the same instant the soldier recognized +him as a Frenchman, and oblivious of the Mohawks' presence blurted out +his discovery in Iroquois dialect, vowing that for all the paint and +grease, this youth was a white man below. The fellow's blundering +might have cost Radisson's life; but the youth had not been a captive +among crafty Mohawks for nothing. Radisson feigned surprise at the +accusation. That quieted the Mohawk suspicions and they were presently +deep in the beer pots of the Dutch. Again the soldier spoke, this time +in French. It was the first time that Radisson had heard his native +tongue for months. He answered in French. At that the soldier emitted +shouts of delight, for he, too, was French, and these strangers in an +alien land threw their arms about each other like a pair of long-lost +brothers with exclamations of joy too great for words. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-037"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-037.jpg" ALT="The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time." BORDER="2" WIDTH="367" HEIGHT="274"> +<H4> +[Illustration: The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +From that moment Radisson became the lion of Fort Orange. The women +dragged him to their houses and forced more dainties on him than he +could eat. He was conducted from house to house in triumph, to the +amazed delight of the Indians. The Dutch offered to ransom him at any +price; but that would have exposed the Dutch settlement to the +resentment of the Mohawks and placed Radisson under heavy obligation to +people who were the enemies of New France. Besides, his honor was +pledged to return to his Indian parents; and it was a long way home to +have to sail to Europe and back again to Quebec. Perhaps, too, there +was deep in his heart what he did not realize—a rooted love for the +wilds that was to follow him all through life. By the devious course +of captivity, he had tasted of a new freedom and could not give it up. +He declined the offer of the Dutch. In two days he was back among the +Mohawks ten times more a hero than he had ever been. Mother and +sisters were his slaves. +</P> + +<P> +But between love of the wilds and love of barbarism is a wide +difference. He had not been back for two weeks when that glimpse of +crude civilization at Orange recalled torturing memories of the French +home in Three Rivers. The filthy food, the smoky lodges, the cruelties +of the Mohawks, filled him with loathing. The nature of the white man, +which had been hidden under the grease and paint of the savage—and in +danger of total eclipse—now came upper-most. With Radisson, to think +was to act. He determined to escape if it cost him his life. +</P> + +<P> +Taking only a hatchet as if he were going to cut wood, Radisson left +the Indian lodge early one morning in the fall of 1653. Once out of +sight from the village, he broke into a run, following the trail +through the dense forests of the Mohawk Valley toward Fort Orange. On +and on he ran, all that day, without pause to rest or eat, without +backward glance, with eye ever piercing through the long leafy vistas +of the forest on the watch for the fresh-chipped bark of the trees that +guided his course, or the narrow indurated path over the spongy mould +worn by running warriors. And when night filled the forest with the +hoot of owl, and the far, weird cries of wild creatures on the rove, +there sped through the aisled columns of star light and shadow, the +ghostly figure of the French boy slim, and lithe as a willow, with +muscles tense as ironwood, and step silent as the mountain-cat. All +that night he ran without a single stop. Chill daybreak found him +still staggering on, over rocks slippery with the night frost, over +windfall tree on tree in a barricade, through brawling mountain brooks +where his moccasins broke the skim of ice at the edge, past rivers +where he half waded, half swam. He was now faint from want of food; +but fear spurred him on. The morning air was so cold that he found it +better to run than rest. By four of the afternoon he came to a +clearing in the forest, where was the cabin of a settler. A man was +chopping wood. Radisson ascertained that there were no Iroquois in the +cabin, and, hiding in it, persuaded the settler to carry a message to +Fort Orange, two miles farther on. While he waited Indians passed the +cabin, singing and shouting. The settler's wife concealed him behind +sacks of wheat and put out all lights. Within an hour came a rescue +party from Orange, who conducted him safely to the fort. For three +days Radisson hid in Orange, while the Mohawks wandered through the +fort, calling him by name. +</P> + +<P> +Gifts of money from the Jesuit, Poncet, and from a Dutch merchant, +enabled Radisson to take ship from Orange to New York, and from New +York to Europe. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-041"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-041.jpg" ALT="Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving." BORDER="2" WIDTH="393" HEIGHT="285"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in<BR> +Holland. This view of Fort Amsterdam on the Manhattan is copied from<BR> +an ancient engraving executed in Holland. The fort was erected in 1623<BR> +but finished upon the above model by Governor Van Twiller in 1635.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Père Poncet had been captured by the Mohawks the preceding summer, but +had escaped to Orange.[12] Embarking on a small sloop, Radisson sailed +down the Hudson to New York, which then consisted of some five hundred +houses, with stores, barracks, a stone church, and a dilapidated fort. +Central Park was a forest; goats and cows pastured on what is now Wall +Street; and to east and west was a howling wilderness of marsh and +woods. After a stay of three weeks, Radisson embarked for Amsterdam, +which he reached in January, 1654. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Benjamin Sulte in <I>Chronique Trifluvienne</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] It was in August of this same year, 1652, that the governor of +Three Rivers was slain by the Iroquois. Parkman gives this date, 1653, +Garneau, 1651, L'Abbé Tanguay, 1651; Dollier de Casson, 1651, Belmont, +1653. Sulte gives the name of the governor Duplessis-Kerbodot, not +Bochart, as given in Parkman. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] Dr. Bryce has unearthed the fact that in a petition to the House of +Commons, 1698, Radisson sets down his age as sixty-two. This gives the +year of his birth as 1636. On the other hand, Sulte has record of a +Pierre Radisson registered at Quebec in 1681, aged fifty-one, which +would make him slightly older, if it is the same Radisson. Mr. Sulte's +explanation is as follows: Sébastien Hayet of St. Malo married Madeline +Hénault. Their daughter Marguerite married Chouart, known as +Groseillers. Madeline Hénault then married Pierre Esprit Radisson of +Paris, whose children were Pierre, our hero, and two daughters. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] A despatch from M. Talon in 1666 shows there were 461 families in +Three Rivers. State papers from the Minister to M. Frontenac in 1674 +show there were only 6705 French in all the colony. Averaging five a +family, there must have been 2000 people at Three Rivers. Fear of the +Iroquois must have driven the country people inside the fort, so that +the population enrolled was larger than the real population of Three +Rivers. Sulte gives the normal population of Three Rivers in 1654 as +38 married couples, 13 bachelors, 38 boys, 26 girls—in all not 200. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] At first flush, this seems a slip in <I>Radisson's Relation</I>. Where +did the Mohawks get their guns? <I>New York Colonial Documents</I> show +that between 1640 and 1650 the Dutch at Fort Orange had supplied the +Mohawks alone with four hundred guns. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] One of many instances of Radisson's accuracy in detail. All tribes +have a trick of browning food on hot stones or sand that has been taken +from fire. The Assiniboines gained their name from this practice: they +were the users of "boiling stones." +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] I have asked both natives and old fur-traders what combination of +sounds in English most closely resembles the Indian war-cry, and they +have all given the words that I have quoted. One daughter of a chief +factor, who went through a six weeks' siege by hostiles in her father's +fort, gave a still more graphic description. She said: "you can +imagine the snarls of a pack of furiously vicious dogs saying 'ah-oh' +with a whoop, you have it; and you will not forget it!" +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] This practice was a binding law on many tribes. Catlin relates it +of the Mandans, and Hearne of the Chipewyans. The latter considered it +a crime to kiss wives and children after a massacre without the bath of +purification. Could one know where and when that universal custom of +washing blood-guilt arose, one mystery of existence would be unlocked. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] I have throughout followed Mr. Sulte's correction of the name of +this governor. The mistake followed by Parkman, Tanguay, and +others—it seems—was first made in 1820, and has been faithfully +copied since. Elsewhere will be found Mr. Sulte's complete elucidation +of the hopeless dark in which all writers have involved Radisson's +family. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[10] If there were not corroborative testimony, one might suspect the +excited French lad of gross exaggeration in his account of Iroquois +tortures; but the Jesuits more than confirm the worst that Radisson +relates. Bad as these torments were, they were equalled by the deeds +of white troops from civilized cities in the nineteenth century. A +band of Montana scouts came on the body of a comrade horribly mutilated +by the Indians. They caught the culprits a few days afterwards. +Though the government report has no account of what happened, traders +say the bodies of the guilty Indians were found skinned and scalped by +the white troops. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[11] Radisson puts the Senecas before the Cayugas, which is different +from the order given by the Jesuits. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[12] The fact that Radisson confessed his sins to this priest seems +pretty well to prove that Pierre was a Catholic and not a Protestant, +as has been so often stated. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER II +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1657-1658 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission—He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands—Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War—Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +From Amsterdam Radisson took ship to Rochelle. Here he found himself a +stranger in his native land. All his kin of whom there is any +record—Pierre Radisson, his father, Madeline Hénault, his mother, +Marguerite and Françoise, his elder and younger sisters, his uncle and +aunt, with their daughter, Elizabeth—were now living at Three Rivers +in New France.[1] Embarking with the fishing fleet that yearly left +France for the Grand Banks, Radisson came early in the spring of 1654 +to Isle Percée at the mouth of the St. Lawrence. He was still a week's +journey from Three Rivers, but chance befriended him. Algonquin canoes +were on the way up the river to war on the Iroquois. Joining the +Indian canoes, he slipped past the hilly shores of the St. Lawrence and +in five days was between the main bank on the north side and the muddy +shallows of the Isle of Orleans. Sheering out where the Montmorency +roars over a precipice in a shining cataract, the canoes glided across +St. Charles River among the forests of masts heaving to the tide below +the beetling heights of Cape Diamond, Quebec. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-043"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-043.jpg" ALT="One of the earliest maps of the Great Lakes." BORDER="2" WIDTH="643" HEIGHT="393"> +<H4> +[Illustration: One of the earliest maps of the Great Lakes.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It was May, 1651, when he had first seen the turrets and spires of +Quebec glittering on the hillside in the sun; it was May, 1652, that +the Iroquois had carried him off from Three Rivers; and it was May, +1654, when he came again to his own. He was welcomed back as from the +dead. Changes had taken place in the interval of his captivity. A +truce had been arranged between the Iroquois and the French. Now that +the Huron missions had been wiped out by Iroquois wars, the Jesuits +regarded the truce as a Divine provision for a mission among the +Iroquois. The year that Radisson escaped from the Mohawks, Jesuit +priests had gone among them. A still greater change that was to affect +his life more vitally had taken place in the Radisson family. The year +that Radisson had been captured, the outraged people of Three Rivers +had seized a Mohawk chief and burned him to death. In revenge, the +Mohawks murdered the governor of Three Rivers and a company of +Frenchmen. Among the slain was the husband of Radisson's sister, +Marguerite. When Radisson returned, he found that his widowed sister +had married Médard Chouart Groseillers, a famous fur trader of New +France, who had passed his youth as a lay helper to the Jesuit missions +of Lake Huron.[2] Radisson was now doubly bound to the Jesuits by +gratitude and family ties. Never did pagan heart hear an evangel more +gladly than the Mohawks heard the Jesuits. The priests were welcomed +with acclaim, led to the Council Lodge, and presented with belts of +wampum. Not a suspicion of foul play seems to have entered the +Jesuits' mind. When the Iroquois proposed to incorporate into the +Confederacy the remnants of the Hurons, the Jesuits discerned nothing +in the plan but the most excellent means to convert pagan Iroquois by +Christian Hurons. Having gained an inch, the Iroquois demanded the +proverbial ell. They asked that a French settlement be made in the +Iroquois country. The Indians wanted a supply of firearms to war +against all enemies; and with a French settlement miles away from help, +the Iroquois could wage what war they pleased against the Algonquins +without fear of reprisals from Quebec—the settlement of white men +among hostiles would be hostage of generous treatment from New France. +Of these designs, neither priests nor governor had the slightest +suspicion. The Jesuits were thinking only of the Iroquois' soul; the +French, of peace with the Iroquois at any cost. +</P> + +<P> +In 1656 Major Dupuis and fifty Frenchmen had established a French +colony among the Iroquois.[3] The hardships of these pioneers form no +part of Radisson's life, and are, therefore, not set down here. Peace +not bought by a victory is an unstable foundation for Indian treaty. +The Mohawks were jealous that their confederates, the Onondagas, had +obtained the French settlement. In 1657, eighty Iroquois came to +Quebec to escort one hundred Huron refugees back to Onondaga for +adoption into the Confederacy. These Hurons were Christians, and the +two Jesuits, Paul Ragueneau and François du Péron, were appointed to +accompany them to their new abode. Twenty young Frenchmen joined the +party to seek their fortunes at the new settlement; but a man was +needed who could speak Iroquois. Glad to repay his debt to the +Jesuits, young Radisson volunteered to go as a <I>donné</I>, that is, a lay +helper vowed to gratuitous services. +</P> + +<P> +It was midsummer before all preparations had been made. On July 26, +the party of two hundred, made up of twenty Frenchmen, eighty Iroquois, +and a hundred Hurons, filed out of the gates of Montreal, and winding +round the foot of the mountain followed a trail through the forest that +took them past the Lachine Rapids. The Onondaga <I>voyageurs</I> carried +the long birch canoes inverted on their shoulders, two Indians at each +end; and the other Iroquois trotted over the rocks with the Frenchmen's +baggage on their backs. The day was hot, the <I>portage</I> long and +slippery with dank moisture. The Huron children fagged and fell +behind. At nightfall, thirty of the haughty Iroquois lost patience, +and throwing down their bundles made off for Quebec with the avowed +purpose of raiding the Algonquins. On the way, they paused to scalp +three Frenchmen at Montreal, cynically explaining that if the French +persisted in taking Algonquins into their arms, the white men need not +be surprised if the blow aimed at an Algonquin sometimes struck a +Frenchman. That act opened the eyes of the French to the real meaning +of the peace made with the Iroquois; but the little colony was beyond +recall. To insure the safety of the French among the Onondagas, the +French governor at Quebec seized a dozen Iroquois and kept them as +hostages of good conduct. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile, all was confusion on Lake St. Louis, where the last band of +colonists had encamped. The Iroquois had cast the Frenchmen's baggage +on the rocks and refused to carry it farther. Leaving the whites all +embarrassed, the Onondagas hurriedly embarked the Hurons and paddled +quickly out of sight. The act was too suddenly unanimous not to have +been premeditated. Why had the Iroquois carried the Hurons away from +the Frenchmen? Father Ragueneau at once suspected some sinister +purpose. Taking only a single sack of flour for food, he called for +volunteers among the twenty Frenchmen to embark in a leaky, old canoe +and follow the treacherous Onondagas. Young Radisson was one of the +first to offer himself. Six others followed his example; and the seven +Frenchmen led by the priest struck across the lake, leaving the others +to gather up the scattered baggage. +</P> + +<P> +The Onondagas were too deep to reveal their plots with seven armed +Frenchmen in pursuit. The Indians permitted the French boats to come +up with the main band. All camped together in the most friendly +fashion that night; but the next morning one Iroquois offered passage +in his canoe to one Frenchman, another Iroquois to another of the +whites, and by the third day, when they came to Lake St. Francis, the +old canoe had been abandoned. The French were scattered promiscuously +among the Iroquois, with no two whites in one boat. The Hurons were +quicker to read the signs of treachery than the French. There were +rumors of one hundred Mohawks lying in ambush at the Thousand Islands +to massacre the coming Hurons. On the morning of August 3 four Huron +warriors and two women seized a canoe, and to the great astonishment of +the encampment launched out before they could be stopped. Heading the +canoe back for Montreal, they broke out in a war chant of defiance to +the Iroquois. +</P> + +<P> +The Onondagas made no sign, but they evidently took council to delay no +longer. Again, when they embarked, they allowed no two whites in one +canoe. The boats spread out. Nothing was said to indicate anything +unusual. The lake lay like a silver mirror in the August sun. The +water was so clear that the Indians frequently paused to spear fish +lying below on the stones. At places the canoes skirted close to the +wood-fringed shore, and braves landed to shoot wild-fowl. Radisson and +Ragueneau seemed simultaneously to have noticed the same thing. +Without any signal, at about four in the afternoon, the Onondagas +steered their canoes for a wooded island in the middle of the St. +Lawrence. With Radisson were three Iroquois and a Huron. As the canoe +grated shore, the bowman loaded his musket and sprang into the thicket. +Naturally, the Huron turned to gaze after the disappearing hunter. +Instantly, the Onondaga standing directly behind buried his hatchet in +the Huron's head. The victim fell quivering across Radisson's feet and +was hacked to pieces by the other Iroquois. Not far along the shore +from Radisson, the priest was landing. He noticed an Iroquois chief +approach a Christian Huron girl. If the Huron had not been a convert, +she might have saved her life by becoming one of the chief's many +slaves; but she had repulsed the Onondaga pagan. As Ragueneau looked, +the girl fell dead with her skull split by the chief's war-axe. The +Hurons on the lake now knew what awaited them; and a cry of terror +arose from the children. Then a silence of numb horror settled over +the incoming canoes. The women were driven ashore like lambs before +wolves; but the valiant Hurons would not die without striking one blow +at their inveterate and treacherous enemies. They threw themselves +together back to back, prepared to fight. For a moment this show of +resistance drove off the Iroquois. Then the Onondaga chieftain rushed +forward, protesting that the two murders had been a personal quarrel. +Striking back his own warriors with a great show of sincerity, he bade +the Hurons run for refuge to the top of the hill. No sooner had the +Hurons broken rank, than there rushed from the woods scores of +Iroquois, daubed in war-paint and shouting their war-cry. This was the +hunt to which the young braves had dashed from the canoes to be in +readiness behind the thicket. Before the scattered Hurons could get +together for defence, the Onondagas had closed around the hilltop in a +cordon. The priest ran here, there, everywhere,—comforting the dying, +stopping mutilation, defending the women. All the Hurons were +massacred but one man, and the bodies were thrown into the river. With +blankets drawn over their heads that they might not see, the women +huddled together, dumb with terror. When the Onondagas turned toward +the women, the Frenchmen stood with muskets levelled. The Onondagas +halted, conferred, and drew off. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-050"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-050.jpg" ALT="Paddling past Hostiles." BORDER="2" WIDTH="404" HEIGHT="202"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Paddling past Hostiles.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The fight lasted for four hours. Darkness and the valor of the little +French band saved the women for the time. The Iroquois kindled a fire +and gathered to celebrate their victory. Then the old priest took his +life in his hands. Borrowing three belts of wampum, he left the +huddling group of Huron women and Frenchmen and marched boldly into the +circle of hostiles. The lives of all the French and Hurons hung by a +thread. Ragueneau had been the spiritual guide of the murdered tribe +for twenty years; and he was now sobbing like a child. The Iroquois +regarded his grief with sardonic scorn; but they misjudged the manhood +below the old priest's tears. Ragueneau asked leave to speak. They +grunted permission. Springing up, he broke into impassioned, fearless +reproaches of the Iroquois for their treachery. Casting one belt of +wampum at the Onondaga chief's feet, the priest demanded pledges that +the massacre cease. A second belt was given to register the Onondaga's +vow to conduct the women and children safely to the Iroquois country. +The third belt was for the safety of the French at Onondaga. +</P> + +<P> +The Iroquois were astonished. They had looked for womanish pleadings. +They had heard stern demands coupled with fearless threats of +punishment. When Ragueneau sat down, the Onondaga chief bestirred +himself to counteract the priest's powerful impression. Lounging to +his feet, the Onondaga impudently declared that the governor of Quebec +had instigated the massacre. Ragueneau leaped up with a denial that +took the lie from the scoundrel's teeth. The chief sat down abashed. +The Council grunted "Ho, ho!" accepting the wampum and promising all +that the Jesuit had asked. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Among the Thousand Islands, the French who had remained behind to +gather up the baggage again joined the Onondagas. They brought with +them from the Isle of Massacres a poor Huron woman, whom they had found +lying insensible on a rock. During the massacre she had hidden in a +hollow tree, where she remained for three days. In this region, +Radisson almost lost his life by hoisting a blanket sail to his canoe. +The wind drifted the boat so far out that Radisson had to throw all +ballast overboard to keep from being swamped. As they turned from the +St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario up the Oswego River for Onondaga, they +met other warriors of the Iroquois nation. In spite of pledges to the +priest, the meeting was celebrated by torturing the Huron women to +entertain the newcomers. Not the sufferings of the early Christians in +Rome exceeded the martyrdom of the Christian Hurons among the +Onondagas. As her mother mounted the scaffold of tortures, a little +girl who had been educated by the Ursulines of Quebec broke out with +loud weeping. The Huron mother turned calmly to the child:— +</P> + +<P> +"Weep not my death, my little daughter! We shall this day be in +heaven," said she; "God will pity us to all eternity. The Iroquois +cannot rob us of that." +</P> + +<P> +As the flames crept about her, her voice was heard chanting in the +crooning monotone of Indian death dirge: "Jesu—have pity on us! +Jesu—have pity on us!" The next moment the child was thrown into the +flames, repeating the same words. +</P> + +<P> +The Iroquois recognized Radisson. He sent presents to his Mohawk +parents, who afterwards played an important part in saving the French +of Onondaga. Having passed the falls, they came to the French fort +situated on the crest of a hill above a lake. Two high towers +loopholed for musketry occupied the centre of the courtyard. Double +walls, trenched between, ran round a space large enough to enable the +French to keep their cattle inside the fort. The <I>voyageurs</I> were +welcomed to Onondaga by Major Dupuis, fifty Frenchmen, and several +Jesuits. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The pilgrims had scarcely settled at Onondaga before signs of the +dangers that were gathering became too plain for the blind zeal of the +Jesuits to ignore. Cayugas, Onondagas, and Senecas, togged out in +war-gear, swarmed outside the palisades. There was no more dissembling +of hunger for the Jesuits' evangel. The warriors spoke no more soft +words, but spent their time feasting, chanting war-songs, heaving up +the war-hatchet against the kettle of sagamite—which meant the rupture +of peace. Then came four hundred Mohawks, who not only shouted their +war-songs, but built their wigwams before the fort gates and +established themselves for the winter like a besieging army. That the +intent of the entire Confederacy was hostile to Onondaga could not be +mistaken; but what was holding the Indians back? Why did they delay +the massacre? Then Huron slaves brought word to the besieged fort of +the twelve Iroquois hostages held at Quebec. The fort understood what +stayed the Iroquois blow. The Confederacy dared not attack the +isolated fort lest Quebec should take terrible vengeance on the +hostages. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-056"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-056.jpg" ALT="Jogues, the Jesuit missionary, who was tortured by the Mohawks." BORDER="2" WIDTH="221" HEIGHT="408"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Jogues, the Jesuit missionary, who was tortured by the +Mohawks. <BR>From a painting in Château de Ramezay, Montreal.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + + + +<P> +The French decided to send messengers to Quebec for instructions before +closing navigation cut them off for the winter. Thirteen men and one +Jesuit left the fort the first week of September. Mohawk spies knew of +the departure and lay in ambush at each side of the narrow river to +intercept the party; but the messengers eluded the trap by striking +through the forests back from the river directly to the St. Lawrence. +Then the little fort closed its gates and awaited an answer from +Quebec. Winter settled over the land, blocking the rivers with ice and +the forest trails with drifts of snow; but no messengers came back from +Quebec. The Mohawks had missed the outgoing scouts: but they caught +the return coureurs and destroyed the letters. Not a soul could leave +the fort but spies dogged his steps. The Jesuits continued going from +lodge to lodge, and in this way Onondaga gained vague knowledge of the +plots outside the fort. The French could venture out only at the risk +of their lives, and spent the winter as closely confined as prisoners +of war. Of the ten drilled soldiers, nine threatened to desert. One +night an unseen hand plunged through the dark, seized the sentry, and +dragged him from the gate. The sentry drew his sword and shouted, "To +arms!" A band of Frenchmen sallied from the gates with swords and +muskets. In the tussle the sentry was rescued, and gifts were sent out +in the morning to pacify the wounded Mohawks. Fortunately the besieged +had plenty of food inside the stockades; but the Iroquois knew there +could be no escape till the ice broke up in spring, and were quite +willing to exchange ample supplies of corn for tobacco and firearms. +The Huron slaves who carried the corn to the fort acted as spies among +the Mohawks for the French. +</P> + +<P> +In the month of February the vague rumors of conspiracy crystallized +into terrible reality. A dying Mohawk confessed to a Jesuit that the +Iroquois[4] Council had determined to massacre half the company of +French and to hold the other half till their own Mohawk hostages were +released from Quebec. Among the hostiles encamped before the gates was +Radisson's Indian father. This Mohawk was still an influential member +of the Great Council. He, too, reported that the warriors were bent on +destroying Onondaga.[5] What was to be done? No answer had come from +Quebec, and no aid could come till the spring. The rivers were still +blocked with ice; and there were not sufficient boats in the fort to +carry fifty men down to Quebec. "What could we do?" writes Radisson. +"We were in their hands. It was as hard to get away from them as for a +ship in full sea without a pilot." +</P> + +<P> +They at once began constructing two large flat-bottomed boats of light +enough draft to run the rapids in the flood-tide of spring. Carpenters +worked hidden in an attic; but when the timbers were mortised together, +the boats had to be brought downstairs, where one of the Huron slaves +caught a glimpse of them. Boats of such a size he had never before +seen. Each was capable of carrying fifteen passengers with full +complement of baggage. Spring rains were falling in floods. The +convert Huron had heard the Jesuits tell of Noah's ark in the deluge. +Returning to the Mohawks, he spread a terrifying report of an impending +flood and of strange arks of refuge built by the white men. Emissaries +were appointed to visit the French fort; but the garrison had been +forewarned. Radisson knew of the coming spies from his Indian father; +and the Jesuits had learned of the Council from their converts. Before +the spies arrived, the French had built a floor over their flatboats, +and to cover the fresh floor had heaped up a dozen canoes. The spies +left the fort satisfied that neither a deluge nor an escape was +impending. Birch canoes would be crushed like egg-shells if they were +run through the ice jams of spring floods. Certain that their victims +were trapped, the Iroquois were in no haste to assault a double-walled +fort, where musketry could mow them down as they rushed the hilltop. +The Indian is bravest under cover; so the Mohawks spread themselves in +ambush on each side of the narrow river and placed guards at the falls +where any boats must be <I>portaged</I>. +</P> + +<P> +Of what good were the boats? To allay suspicion of escape, the Jesuits +continued to visit the wigwams.[6] The French were in despair. They +consulted Radisson, who could go among the Mohawks as with a charmed +life, and who knew the customs of the Confederacy so well. Radisson +proposed a way to outwit the savages. With this plan the priests had +nothing to do. To the harum-scarum Radisson belong the sole credit and +discredit of the escapade. On his device hung the lives of fifty +innocent men. These men must either escape or be massacred. Of +bloodshed, Radisson had already seen too much; and the youth of +twenty-one now no more proposed to stickle over the means of victory +than generals who wear the Victoria cross stop to stickle over means +to-day. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson knew that the Indians had implicit faith in dreams; so +Radisson had a dream.[7] He realized as critics of Indian customs fail +to understand that the fearful privations of savage life teach the +crime of waste. The Indian will eat the last morsel of food set before +him if he dies for it. He believes that the gods punish waste of food +by famine. The belief is a religious principle and the +feasts—<I>festins à tout manger</I>—are a religious act; so Radisson +dreamed—whether sleeping or waking—that the white men were to give a +great festival to the Iroquois. This dream he related to his Indian +father. The Indian like his white brother can clothe a vice under +religious mantle. The Iroquois were gluttonous on a religious +principle. Radisson's dream was greeted with joy. <I>Coureurs</I> ran +through the forest, bidding the Mohawks to the feast. Leaving ambush +of forest and waterfall, the warriors hastened to the walls of +Onondaga. To whet their appetite, they were kept waiting outside for +two whole days. The French took turns in entertaining the waiting +guests. Boisterous games, songs, dances, and music kept the Iroquois +awake and hilarious to the evening of the second day. Inside the fort +bedlam reigned. Boats were dragged from floors to a sally-port at the +rear of the courtyard. Here firearms, ammunition, food, and baggage +were placed in readiness. Guns which could not be taken were burned or +broken. Ammunition was scattered in the snow. All the stock but one +solitary pig, a few chickens, and the dogs was sacrificed for the +feast, and in the barracks a score of men were laboring over enormous +kettles of meat. Had an Indian spy climbed to the top of a tree and +looked over the palisades, all would have been discovered; but the +French entertainers outside kept their guests busy. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-061"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-061.jpg" ALT="Château de Ramezay, Montreal, for years the residence o" BORDER="2" WIDTH="400" HEIGHT="352"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Château de Ramezay, Montreal, for years the residence of +the governor,<BR> and later the storehouse of the fur companies.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +On the evening of the second day a great fire was kindled in the outer +enclosure, between the two walls. The trumpets blew a deafening blast. +The Mohawks answered with a shout. The French clapped their hands. +The outer gates were thrown wide open, and in trooped several hundred +Mohawk warriors, seating themselves in a circle round the fire. +Another blare of trumpets, and twelve enormous kettles of mincemeat +were carried round the circle of guests. A Mohawk chief rose solemnly +and gave his deities of earth, air, and fire profuse thanks for having +brought such generous people as the French among the Iroquois. Other +chiefs arose and declaimed to their hearers that earth did not contain +such hosts as the French. Before they had finished speaking there came +a second and a third and a fourth relay of kettles round the circle of +feasters. Not one Iroquois dared to refuse the food heaped before him. +By the time the kettles of salted fowl and venison and bear had passed +round the circle, each Indian was glancing furtively sideways to see if +his neighbor could still eat. He who was compelled to forsake the +feast first was to become the butt of the company. All the while the +French kept up a din of drums and trumpets and flageolets, dancing and +singing and shouting to drive off sleep. The eyes of the gorging +Indians began to roll. Never had they attempted to demolish such a +banquet. Some shook their heads and drew back. Others fell over in +the dead sleep that results from long fasting and overfeeding and fresh +air. Radisson was everywhere, urging the Iroquois to "Cheer up! cheer +up! If sleep overcomes you, you must awake! Beat the drum! Blow the +trumpet! Cheer up! Cheer up!" +</P> + +<P> +But the end of the repulsive scene was at hand. By midnight the +Indians had—in the language of the white man—"gone under the +mahogany." They lay sprawled on the ground in sodden sleep. Perhaps, +too, something had been dropped in the fleshpots to make their sleep +the sounder. Radisson does not say no, neither does the priest, and +they two were the only whites present who have written of the +episode.[8] But the French would hardly have been human if they had +not assured their own safety by drugging the feasters. It was a common +thing for the fur traders of a later period to prevent massacre and +quell riot by administering a quietus to Indians with a few drops of +laudanum. +</P> + +<P> +The French now retired to the inner court. The main gate was bolted +and chained. Through the loophole of this gate ran a rope attached to +a bell that was used to summon the sentry. To this rope the +mischievous Radisson tied the only remaining pig, so that when the +Indians would pull the rope for admission, the noise of the disturbed +pig would give the impression of a sentry's tramp-tramp on parade. +Stuffed effigies of soldiers were then stuck about the barracks. If a +spy climbed up to look over the palisades, he would see Frenchmen still +in the fort. While Radisson was busy with these precautions to delay +pursuit, the soldiers and priests, led by Major Dupuis, had broken open +the sally-port, forced the boats through sideways, and launched out on +the river. Speaking in whispers, they stowed the baggage in the +flat-boats, then brought out skiffs—dugouts to withstand the ice +jam—for the rest of the company. The night was raw and cold. A skim +of ice had formed on the margins of the river. Through the pitchy +darkness fell a sleet of rain and snow that washed out the footsteps of +the fugitives. The current of mid-river ran a noisy mill-race of ice +and log drift; and the <I>voyageurs</I> could not see one boat length ahead. +</P> + +<P> +To men living in savagery come temptations that can neither be measured +nor judged by civilization. To the French at Onondaga came such a +temptation now. Their priests were busy launching the boats. The +departing soldiers seemed simultaneously to have become conscious of a +very black suggestion. Cooped up against the outer wall in the dead +sleep of torpid gluttony lay the leading warriors of the Iroquois +nation. Were these not the assassins of countless Frenchmen, the +murderers of women, the torturers of children? Had Providence not +placed the treacherous Iroquois in the hands of fifty Frenchmen? If +these warriors were slain, it would be an easy matter to march to the +villages of the Confederacy, kill the old men, and take prisoners the +women. New France would be forever free of her most deadly enemy. +Like the Indians, the white men were trying to justify a wrong under +pretence of good. By chance, word of the conspiracy was carried to the +Jesuits. With all the authority of the church, the priests forbade the +crime. "Their answer was," relates Radisson, "that they were sent to +instruct in the faith of Jesus Christ and not to destroy, and that the +cross must be their sword." +</P> + +<P> +Locking the sally-port, the company—as the Jesuit father +records—"shook the dust of Onondaga from their feet," launched out on +the swift-flowing, dark river and escaped "as the children of Israel +escaped by night from the land of Egypt." They had not gone far +through the darkness before the roar of waters told them of a cataract +ahead. They were four hours carrying baggage and boats over this +<I>portage</I>. Sleet beat upon their backs. The rocks were slippery with +glazed ice; and through the rotten, half-thawed snow, the men sank to +mid-waist. Navigation became worse on Lake Ontario; for the wind +tossed the lake like a sea, and ice had whirled against the St. +Lawrence in a jam. On the St. Lawrence, they had to wait for the +current to carry the ice out. At places they cut a passage through the +honeycombed ice with their hatchets, and again they were compelled to +<I>portage</I> over the ice. The water was so high that the rapids were +safely ridden by all the boats but one, which was shipwrecked, and +three of the men were drowned. +</P> + +<P> +They had left Onondaga on the 20th of March, 1658. On the evening of +April 3d they came to Montreal, where they learned that New France had +all winter suffered intolerable insolence from the Iroquois, lest +punishment of the hostiles should endanger the French at Onondaga. The +fleeing colonists waited twelve days at Montreal for the ice to clear, +and were again held back by a jam at Three Rivers; but on April 23 they +moored safely under the heights of Quebec. +</P> + +<P> +<I>Coureurs</I> from Onondaga brought word that the Mohawks had been +deceived by the pig and the ringing bell and the effigies for more than +a week. Crowing came from the chicken yard, dogs bayed in their +kennels, and when a Mohawk pulled the bell at the gate, he could hear +the sentry's measured march. At the end of seven days not a white man +had come from the fort. At first the Mohawks had thought the "black +robes" were at prayers; but now suspicions of trickery flashed on the +Iroquois. Warriors climbed the palisades and found the fort empty. +Two hundred Mohawks set out in pursuit; but the bad weather held them +back. And that was the way Radisson saved Onondaga.[9] +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The uncle, Pierre Esprit Radisson, is the one with whom careless +writers have confused the young hero, owing to identity of name. +Madeline Hénault has been described as the explorer's first wife, +notwithstanding genealogical impossibilities which make the explorer's +daughter thirty-six years old before he was seventeen. Even the +infallible Tanguay trips on Radisson's genealogy. I have before me the +complete record of the family taken from the parish registers of Three +Rivers and Quebec, by the indefatigable Mr. Sulte, whose explanation of +the case is this: that Radisson's mother, Madeline Hénault, first +married Sébastien Hayet, of St. Malo, to whom was born Marguerite about +1630; that her second husband was Pierre Esprit Radisson of Paris, to +whom were born our hero and the sisters Françoise and Elizabeth. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] I have throughout referred to Médard Chouart, Sieur des +Groseillers, as simply "Groseillers," because that is the name +referring to him most commonly used in the <I>State Papers</I> and old +histories. He was from Charly-Saint-Cyr, near Meaux, and is supposed +to have been born about 1621. His first wife was Helen Martin, +daughter of Abraham Martin, who gave his name to the Plains of Abraham. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] This is the story of Onondaga which Parkman has told. +Unfortunately, when Parkman's account was written, <I>Radisson's +Journals</I> were unknown and Mr. Parkman had to rely entirely on the +<I>Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation</I> and the <I>Jesuit Relations</I>. After +the discovery of <I>Radisson's Journals</I>, Parkman added a footnote to his +account of Onondaga, <I>quoting</I> Radisson in confirmation. If Radisson +may be quoted to corroborate Parkman, Radisson may surely be accepted +as authentic. At the same time, I have compared this journal with +Father Ragueneau's of the same party, and the two tally in every detail. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] See <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1657-1658. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] <I>Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] See Ragueneau's account. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] See <I>Marie de l'Incarnation</I> and Dr. Dionne's modern monograph. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] This account is drawn mainly from <I>Radisson's Journal</I>, partly from +Father Ragueneau, and in one detail from a letter of <I>Marie de +l'Incarnation</I>. Garneau says the feasters were drugged, but I cannot +find his authority for this, though from my knowledge of fur traders' +escapes, I fancy it would hardly have been human nature not to add a +sleeping potion to the kettles. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] The <I>festins à tout manger</I> must not be too sweepingly condemned by +the self-righteous white man as long as drinking bouts are a part of +civilized customs; and at least one civilized nation has the gross +proverb, "Better burst than waste." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER III +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1658-1660 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Discovery of the Great Northwest—Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest—Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West—Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi—The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa—Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +While Radisson was among the Iroquois, the little world of New France +had not been asleep. Before Radisson was born, Jean Nicolet of Three +Rivers had passed westward through the straits of Mackinaw and coasted +down Lake Michigan as far as Green Bay.[1] Some years later the great +Jesuit martyr, Jogues, had preached to the Indians of Sault Ste. Marie; +but beyond the Sault was an unknown world that beckoned the young +adventurers of New France as with the hands of a siren. Of the great +beyond—known to-day as the Great Northwest—nothing had been learned +but this: from it came the priceless stores of beaver pelts yearly +brought down the Ottawa to Three Rivers by the Algonquins, and in it +dwelt strange, wild races whose territory extended northwest and north +to unknown nameless seas. +</P> + +<P> +The Great Beyond held the two things most coveted by ambitious young +men of New France,—quick wealth by means of the fur trade and the +immortal fame of being a first explorer. Nicolet had gone only as far +as Green Bay and Fox River; Jogues not far beyond the Sault. What +secrets lay in the Great Unknown? Year after year young Frenchmen, +fired with the zeal of the explorer, joined wandering tribes of +Algonquins going up the Ottawa, in the hope of being taken beyond the +Sault. In August, 1656, there came from Green Bay two young Frenchmen +with fifty canoes of Algonquins, who told of far-distant waters called +Lake "Ouinipeg," and tribes of wandering hunters called "Christinos" +(Crees), who spent their winters in a land bare of trees (the prairie), +and their summers on the North Sea (Hudson's Bay). They also told of +other tribes, who were great warriors, living to the south,—these were +the Sioux. But the two Frenchmen had not gone beyond the Great +Lakes.[2] These Algonquins were received at Château St. Louis, Quebec, +with pompous firing of cannon and other demonstrations of welcome. So +eager were the French to take possession of the new land that thirty +young men equipped themselves to go back with the Indians; and the +Jesuits sent out two priests, Leonard Gareau and Gabriel Dreuillettes, +with a lay helper, Louis Boësme. The sixty canoes left Quebec with +more firing of guns for a God-speed; but at Lake St. Peter the Mohawks +ambushed the flotilla. The enterprise of exploring the Great Beyond +was abandoned by all the French but two. Gareau, who was mortally +wounded on the Ottawa, probably by a Frenchman or renegade hunter, died +at Montreal; and Dreuillettes did not go farther than Lake Nipissing. +Here, Dreuillettes learned much of the Unknown from an old Nipissing +chief. He heard of six overland routes to the bay of the North, whence +came such store of peltry.[3] He, too, like the two Frenchmen from +Green Bay, heard of wandering tribes who had no settled lodge like the +Hurons and Iroquois, but lived by the chase,—Crees and Sioux and +Assiniboines of the prairie, at constant war round a lake called +"Ouinipegouek." +</P> + +<A NAME="img-070"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-070.jpg" ALT="A Cree brave, with the wampum string." BORDER="2" WIDTH="202" HEIGHT="428"> +<H4> +[Illustration: A Cree brave, with the wampum string.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +By one of those curious coincidences of destiny which mark the lives of +nations and men, the young Frenchman who had gone with the Jesuit, +Dreuillettes, to Lake Nipissing when the other Frenchmen turned back, +was Médard Chouart Groseillers, the fur trader married to Radisson's +widowed sister, Marguerite.[4] +</P> + +<P> +When Radisson came back from Onondaga, he found his brother-in-law, +Groseillers, at Three Rivers, with ambitious designs of exploration in +the unknown land of which he had heard at Green Bay and on Lake +Nipissing. Jacques Cartier had discovered only one great river, had +laid the foundations of only one small province; Champlain had only +made the circuit of the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, and the Great Lakes; +but here was a country—if the Indians spoke the truth—greater than +all the empires of Europe together, a country bounded only by three +great seas, the Sea of the North, the Sea of the South, and the Sea of +Japan, a country so vast as to stagger the utmost conception of little +New France. +</P> + +<P> +It was unnecessary for Groseillers to say more. The ambition of young +Radisson took fire. Long ago, when a captive among the Mohawks, he had +cherished boyish dreams that it was to be his "destiny to discover many +wild nations"; and here was that destiny opening the door for him, +pointing the way, beckoning to the toils and dangers and glories of the +discoverer's life. Radisson had been tortured among the Mohawks and +besieged among the Onondagas. Groseillers had been among the Huron +missions that were destroyed and among the Algonquin canoes that were +attacked. Both explorers knew what perils awaited them; but what +youthful blood ever chilled at prospect of danger when a single <I>coup</I> +might win both wealth and fame? Radisson had not been home one month; +but he had no sooner heard the plan than he "longed to see himself in a +boat." +</P> + +<P> +A hundred and fifty Algonquins had come down the Ottawa from the Great +Beyond shortly after Radisson returned from Onondaga. Six of these +Algonquins had brought their furs to Three Rivers. Some emissaries had +gone to Quebec to meet the governor; but the majority of the Indians +remained at Montreal to avoid the ambuscade of the Mohawks on Lake St. +Peter. Radisson and Groseillers were not the only Frenchmen conspiring +to wrest fame and fortune from the Upper Country. When the Indians +came back from Quebec, they were accompanied by thirty young French +adventurers, gay as boys out of school or gold hunters before the first +check to their plans. There were also two Jesuits sent out to win the +new domain for the cross.[5] As ignorant as children of the hardships +ahead, the other treasure-seekers kept up nonchalant boasting that +roused the irony of such seasoned men as Radisson and Groseillers. +"What fairer bastion than a good tongue," Radisson demands cynically, +"especially when one sees his own chimney smoke?… It is different +when food is wanting, work necessary day and night, sleep taken on the +bare ground or to mid-waist in water, with an empty stomach, weariness +in the bones, and bad weather overhead." +</P> + +<P> +Giving the slip to their noisy companions, Radisson and Groseillers +stole out from Three Rivers late one night in June, accompanied by +Algonquin guides. Travelling only at night to avoid Iroquois spies, +they came to Montreal in three days. Here were gathered one hundred +and forty Indians from the Upper Country, the thirty French, and the +two priests. No gun was fired at Montreal, lest the Mohawks should get +wind of the departure; and the flotilla of sixty canoes spread over +Lake St. Louis for the far venture of the <I>Pays d'en Haut</I>. Three days +of work had silenced the boasting of the gay adventurers; and the +<I>voyageurs</I>, white and red, were now paddling in swift silence. Safety +engendered carelessness. As the fleet seemed to be safe from Iroquois +ambush, the canoes began to scatter. Some loitered behind. Hunters +went ashore to shoot. The hills began to ring with shot and call. At +the first <I>portage</I> many of the canoes were nine and ten miles apart. +Enemies could have set on the Algonquins in some narrow defile and +slaughtered the entire company like sheep in a pen. Radisson and +Groseillers warned the Indians of the risk they were running. Many of +these Algonquins had never before possessed firearms. With the muskets +obtained in trade at Three Rivers, they thought themselves invincible +and laughed all warning to scorn. Radisson and Groseillers were told +that they were a pair of timid squaws; and the canoes spread apart till +not twenty were within call. As they skirted the wooded shores, a man +suddenly dashed from the forest with an upraised war-hatchet in one +hand and a blanket streaming from his shoulders. He shouted for them +to come to him. The Algonquins were panic-stricken. Was the man +pursued by Mohawks, or laying a trap to lure them within shooting +range? Seeing them hesitate, the Indian threw down blanket and hatchet +to signify that he was defenceless, and rushed into the water to his +armpits. +</P> + +<P> +"I would save you," he shouted in Iroquois. +</P> + +<P> +The Algonquins did not understand. They only knew that he spoke the +tongue of the hated enemy and was unarmed. In a trice, the Algonquins +in the nearest canoe had thrown out a well-aimed lasso, roped the man +round the waist, and drawn him a captive into the canoe. +</P> + +<P> +"Brothers," protested the captive, who seems to have been either a +Huron slave or an Iroquois magician, "your enemies are spread up and +down! Sleep not! They have heard your noise! They wait for you! +They are sure of their prey! Believe me—keep together! Spend not +your powder in vain to frighten your enemies by noise! See that the +stones of your arrows be not bent! Bend your bows! Keep your hatchets +sharp! Build a fort! Make haste!" +</P> + +<P> +But the Algonquins, intoxicated with the new power of firearms, would +hear no warning. They did not understand his words and refused to heed +Radisson's interpretation. Beating paddles on their canoes and firing +off guns, they shouted derisively that the man was "a dog and a hen." +All the same, they did not land to encamp that night, but slept in +midstream, with their boats tied to the rushes or on the lee side of +floating trees. The French lost heart. If this were the beginning, +what of the end? Daylight had scarcely broken when the paddles of the +eager <I>voyageurs</I> were cutting the thick gray mist that rose from the +river to get away from observation while the fog still hid the fleet. +From afar came the dull, heavy rumble of a waterfall.[6] +</P> + +<P> +There was a rush of the twelve foremost canoes to reach the landing and +cross the <I>portage</I> before the thinning mist lifted entirely. Twelve +boats had got ashore when the fog was cleft by a tremendous crashing of +guns, and Iroquois ambushed in the bordering forest let go a salute of +musketry. Everything was instantly in confusion. Abandoning their +baggage to the enemy, the Algonquins and French rushed for the woods to +erect a barricade. This would protect the landing of the other canoes. +The Iroquois immediately threw up a defence of fallen logs likewise, +and each canoe that came ashore was greeted with a cross fire between +the two barricades. Four canoes were destroyed and thirteen of the +Indians from the Upper Country killed. As day wore on, the Iroquois' +shots ceased, and the Algonquins celebrated the truce by killing and +devouring all the prisoners they had taken, among whom was the magician +who had given them warning. Radisson and Groseillers wondered if the +Iroquois were reserving their powder for a night raid. The Algonquins +did not wait to know. As soon as darkness fell, there was a wild +scramble for the shore. A long, low trumpet call, such as hunters use, +signalled the Algonquins to rally and rush for the boats. The French +embarked as best they could. The Indians swam and paddled for the +opposite shore of the river. Here, in the dark, hurried council was +taken. The most of the baggage had been lost. The Indians refused to +help either the Jesuits or the French, and it was impossible for the +white <I>voyageurs</I> to keep up the pace in the dash across an unknown +<I>portage</I> through the dark. The French adventurers turned back for +Montreal. Of the white men, Radisson and Groseillers alone went on. +</P> + +<P> +Frightened into their senses by the encounter, the Algonquins now +travelled only at night till they were far beyond range of the +Iroquois. All day the fugitive band lay hidden in the woods. They +could not hunt, lest Mohawk spies might hear the gunshots. Provisions +dwindled. In a short time the food consisted of <I>tripe de roche</I>—a +greenish moss boiled into a soup—and the few fish that might be caught +during hurried nightly launch or morning landing. Sometimes they hid +in a berry patch, when the fruit was gathered and boiled, but +camp-fires were stamped out and covered. Turning westward, they +crossed the barren region of iron-capped rocks and dwarf growth between +the Upper Ottawa and the Great Lakes. Now they were farther from the +Iroquois, and staved off famine by shooting an occasional bear in the +berry patches. For a thousand miles they had travelled against stream, +carrying their boats across sixty <I>portages</I>. Now they glided with the +current westward to Lake Nipissing. On the lake, the Upper Indians +always <I>cached</I> provisions. Fish, otter, and beaver were plentiful; +but again they refrained from using firearms, for Iroquois footprints +had been found on the sand. +</P> + +<P> +From Lake Nipissing they passed to Lake Huron, where the fleet divided. +Radisson and Groseillers went with the Indians, who crossed Lake Huron +for Green Bay on Lake Michigan. The birch canoes could not venture +across the lake in storms; so the boats rounded southward, keeping +along the shore of Georgian Bay. Cedar forests clustered down the +sandy reaches of the lake. Rivers dark as cathedral aisles rolled +their brown tides through the woods to the blue waters of Lake Huron. +At one point Groseillers recognized the site of the ruined Jesuit +missions. The Indians waited the chance of a fair day, and paddled +over to the straits at the entrance to Lake Michigan. At Manitoulin +Island were Huron refugees, among whom were, doubtless, the waiting +families of the Indians with Radisson. All struck south for Green Bay. +So far Radisson and Groseillers had travelled over beaten ground. Now +they were at the gateway of the Great Beyond, where no white man had +yet gone. +</P> + +<P> +The first thing done on taking up winter quarters on Green Bay was to +appease the friends of those warriors slain by the Mohawks. A +distribution of gifts had barely dried up the tears of mourning when +news came of Iroquois on the war-path. Radisson did not wait for fear +to unman the Algonquin warriors. Before making winter camp, he offered +to lead a band of volunteers against the marauders. For two days he +followed vague tracks through the autumn-tinted forests. Here were +markings of the dead leaves turned freshly up; there a moccasin print +on the sand; and now the ashes of a hidden camp-fire lying in almost +imperceptible powder on fallen logs told where the Mohawks had +bivouacked. On the third day Radisson caught the ambushed band +unprepared, and fell upon the Iroquois so furiously that not one +escaped. +</P> + +<P> +After that the Indians of the Upper Country could not do too much for +the white men. Radisson and Groseillers were conducted from camp to +camp in triumph. Feasts were held. Ambassadors went ahead with gifts +from the Frenchmen; and companies of women marched to meet the +explorers, chanting songs of welcome. "But our mind was not to stay +here," relates Radisson, "but to know the remotest people; and, because +we had been willing to die in their defence, these Indians consented to +conduct us." +</P> + +<P> +Before the opening of spring, 1659, Radisson and Groseillers had been +guided across what is now Wisconsin to "a mighty river, great, rushing, +profound, and comparable to the St. Lawrence." [7] On the shores of +the river they found a vast nation—"the people of the fire," prairie +tribes, a branch of the Sioux, who received them well.[8] This river +was undoubtedly the Upper Mississippi, now for the first time seen by +white men. Radisson and Groseillers had discovered the Great +Northwest.[9] They were standing on the threshold of the Great Beyond. +They saw before them not the Sea of China, as speculators had dreamed, +not kingdoms for conquest, which the princes of Europe coveted; not a +short road to Asia, of which savants had spun a cobweb of theories. +They saw what every Westerner sees to-day,—illimitable reaches of +prairie and ravine, forested hills sloping to mighty rivers, and open +meadow-lands watered by streams looped like a ribbon. They saw a land +waiting for its people, wealth waiting for possessors, an empire +waiting for the nation builders. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-081"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-081.jpg" ALT="An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux." BORDER="2" WIDTH="401" HEIGHT="638"> +<H4> +[Illustration: An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +What were Radisson's thoughts? Did he realize the importance of his +discovery? Could he have the vaguest premonition that he had opened a +door of escape from stifled older lands to a higher type of manhood and +freedom than the most sanguine dreamer had ever hoped?[10] After an +act has come to fruition, it is easy to read into the actor's mind +fuller purpose than he could have intended. Columbus could not have +realized to what the discovery of America would lead. Did Radisson +realize what the discovery of the Great Northwest meant? +</P> + +<P> +Here is what he says, in that curious medley of idioms which so often +results when a speaker knows many languages but is master of none:— +</P> + +<P> +"The country was so pleasant, so beautiful, and so fruitful, that it +grieved me to see that the world could not discover such inticing +countries to live in. This, I say, because the Europeans fight for a +rock in the sea against one another, or for a steril land … where +the people by changement of air engender sickness and die.… +Contrariwise, these kingdoms are so delicious and under so temperate a +climate, plentiful of all things, and the earth brings forth its fruit +twice a year, that the people live long and lusty and wise in their +way. What a conquest would this be, at little or no cost? What +pleasure should people have … instead of misery and poverty! Why +should not men reap of the love of God here? Surely, more is to be +gained converting souls here than in differences of creed, when wrongs +are committed under pretence of religion!… It is true, I +confess, … that access here is difficult … but nothing is to be +gained without labor and pains." [11] +</P> + +<A NAME="img-083"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-083.jpg" ALT="Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in Montreal by Mr. McNab. The date on the picture is 1669." BORDER="2" WIDTH="345" HEIGHT="400"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in<BR> +Montreal by Mr. McNab. The date on the picture is 1669.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Here Radisson foreshadows all the best gains that the West has +accomplished for the human race. What are they? Mainly room,—room to +live and room for opportunity; equal chances for all classes, high and +low; plenty for all classes, high and low; the conquests not of war but +of peace. The question arises,—when Radisson discovered the Great +Northwest ten years before Marquette and Jolliet, twenty years before +La Salle, a hundred years before De la Vérendrye, why has his name been +slurred over and left in oblivion?[12] The reasons are plain. +Radisson was a Christian, but he was not a slave to any creed. Such +liberality did not commend itself to the annalists of an age that was +still rioting in a very carnival of religious persecution. Radisson +always invoked the blessing of Heaven on his enterprises and rendered +thanks for his victories; but he was indifferent as to whether he was +acting as lay helper with the Jesuits, or allied to the Huguenots of +London and Boston. His discoveries were too important to be ignored by +the missionaries. They related his discoveries, but refrained from +mentioning his name, though twice referring to Groseillers. What hurt +Radisson's fame even more than his indifference to creeds was his +indifference to nationality. Like Columbus, he had little care what +flag floated at the prow, provided only that the prow pushed on and on +and on,—into the Unknown. He sold his services alternately to France +and England till he had offended both governments; and, in addition to +withstanding a conspiracy of silence on the part of the Church, his +fame encountered the ill-will of state historians. He is mentioned as +"the adventurer," "the hang-dog," "the renegade." Only in 1885, when +the manuscript of his travels was rescued from oblivion, did it become +evident that history must be rewritten. Here was a man whose +discoveries were second only to those of Columbus, and whose +explorations were more far-ranging and important than those of +Champlain and La Salle and De la Vérendrye put together. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The spring of 1659 found the explorers still among the prairie tribes +of the Mississippi. From these people Radisson learned of four other +races occupying vast, undiscovered countries. He heard of the Sioux, a +warlike nation to the west, who had no fixed abode but lived by the +chase and were at constant war with another nomadic tribe to the +north—the Crees. The Crees spent the summer time round the shores of +salt water, and in winter came inland to hunt. Between these two was a +third,—the Assiniboines,—who used earthen pots for cooking, heated +their food by throwing hot stones in water, and dressed themselves in +buckskin. These three tribes were wandering hunters; but the people of +the fire told Radisson of yet another nation, who lived in villages +like the Iroquois, on "a great river that divided itself in two," and +was called "the Forked River," because "it had two branches, the one +toward the west, the other toward the south, … toward Mexico." +These people were the Mandans or Omahas, or Iowas, or other people of +the Missouri.[13] +</P> + +<P> +A whole world of discoveries lay before them. In what direction should +they go? "We desired not to go to the north till we had made a +discovery in the south," explains Radisson. The people of the fire +refused to accompany the explorers farther; so the two "put themselves +in hazard," as Radisson relates, and set out alone. They must have +struck across the height of land between the Mississippi and the +Missouri; for Radisson records that they met several nations having +villages, "all amazed to see us and very civil. The farther we +sojourned, the delightfuller the land became. I can say that in all my +lifetime I have never seen a finer country, for all that I have been in +Italy. The people have very long hair. They reap twice a year. They +war against the Sioux and the Cree.… It was very hot there.… +Being among the people they told us … of men that built great +cabins and have beards and have knives like the French." The Indians +showed Radisson a string of beads only used by Europeans. These people +must have been the Spaniards of the south. The tribes on the Missouri +were large men of well-formed figures. There were no deformities among +the people. Radisson saw corn and pumpkins in their gardens. "Their +arrows were not of stone, but of fish bones.… Their dishes were +made of wood.… They had great calumets of red and green +stone … and great store of tobacco.… They had a kind of drink +that made them mad for a whole day." [14] "We had not yet seen the +Sioux," relates Radisson. "We went toward the south and came back by +the north." The <I>Jesuit Relations</I> are more explicit. Written the +year that Radisson returned to Quebec, they state: "Continuing their +wanderings, our two young Frenchmen visited the Sioux, where they found +five thousand warriors. They then left this nation for another warlike +people, who with bows and arrows had rendered themselves redoubtable." +These were the Crees, with whom, say the Jesuits, wood is so rare and +small that nature has taught them to make fire of a kind of coal and to +cover their cabins with skins of the chase. The explorers seem to have +spent the summer hunting antelope, buffalo, moose, and wild turkey. +The Sioux received them cordially, supplied them with food, and gave +them an escort to the next encampments. They had set out southwest to +the Mascoutins, Mandans, and perhaps, also, the Omahas. They were now +circling back northeastward toward the Sault between Lake Michigan and +Lake Superior. How far westward had they gone? Only two facts gave +any clew. Radisson reports that mountains lay far inland; and the +Jesuits record that the explorers were among tribes that used coal. +This must have been a country far west of the Mandans and Mascoutins +and within sight of at least the Bad Lands, or that stretch of rough +country between the prairie and outlying foothills of the Rockies.[15] +The course of the first exploration seems to have circled over the +territory now known as Wisconsin, perhaps eastern Iowa and Nebraska, +South Dakota, Montana, and back over North Dakota and Minnesota to the +north shore of Lake Superior. "The lake toward the north is full of +rocks, yet great ships can ride in it without danger," writes Radisson. +At the Sault they found the Crees and Sautaux in bitter war. They also +heard of a French establishment, and going to visit it found that the +Jesuits had established a mission. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson had explored the Southwest. He now decided to essay the +Northwest. When the Sautaux were at war with the Crees, he met the +Crees and heard of the great salt sea in the north. Surely this was +the Sea of the North—Hudson Bay—of which the Nipissing chief had told +Groseillers long ago. Then the Crees had great store of beaver pelts; +and trade must not be forgotten. No sooner had peace been arranged +between Sautaux and Crees, than Cree hunters flocked out of the +northern forests to winter on Lake Superior. A rumor of Iroquois on +the war-path compelled Radisson and Groseillers to move their camp back +from Lake Superior higher up the chain of lakes and rivers between what +is now Minnesota and Canada, toward the country of the Sioux. In the +fall of 1659 Groseillers' health began to fail from the hardships; so +he remained in camp for the winter, attending to the trade, while +Radisson carried on the explorations alone. +</P> + +<P> +This was one of the coldest winters known in Canada.[16] The snow fell +so heavily in the thick pine woods of Minnesota that Radisson says the +forest became as sombre as a cellar. The colder the weather the better +the fur, and, presenting gifts to insure safe conduct, Radisson set out +with a band of one hundred and fifty Cree hunters for the Northwest. +They travelled on snow-shoes, hunting moose on the way and sleeping at +night round a camp-fire under the stars. League after league, with no +sound through the deathly white forest but the soft crunch-crunch of +the snowshoes, they travelled two hundred miles toward what is now +Manitoba. When they had set out, the snow was like a cushion. Now it +began to melt in the spring sun, and clogged the snow-shoes till it was +almost impossible to travel. In the morning the surface was glazed +ice, and they could march without snow-shoes. Spring thaw called a +halt to their exploration. The Crees encamped for three weeks to build +boats. As soon as the ice cleared, the band launched back down-stream +for the appointed rendezvous on Green Bay. All that Radisson learned +on this trip was that the Bay of the North lay much farther from Lake +Superior than the old Nipissing chief had told Dreuillettes and +Groseillers.[17] +</P> + +<P> +Groseillers had all in readiness to depart for Quebec; and five hundred +Indians from the Upper Country had come together to go down the Ottawa +and St. Lawrence with the explorers. As they were about to embark, +<I>coureurs</I> came in from the woods with news that more than a thousand +Iroquois were on the war-path, boasting that they would exterminate the +French.[18] Somewhere along the Ottawa a small band of Hurons had been +massacred. The Indians with Groseillers and Radisson were terrified. +A council of the elders was called. +</P> + +<P> +"Brothers, why are ye so foolish as to put yourselves in the hands of +those that wait for you?" demanded an old chief, addressing the two +white men. "The Iroquois will destroy you and carry you away captive. +Will you have your brethren, that love you, slain? Who will baptize +our children?" (Radisson and Groseillers had baptized more than two +hundred children.[19]) "Stay till next year! Then you may freely go! +Our mothers will send their children to be taught in the way of the +Lord!" +</P> + +<P> +Fear is like fire. It must be taken in the beginning, or it spreads. +The explorers retired, decided on a course of action, and requested the +Indians to meet them in council a second time. Eight hundred warriors +assembled, seating themselves in a circle. Radisson and Groseillers +took their station in the centre.[20] +</P> + +<P> +"Who am I?" demanded Groseillers, hotly. "Am I a foe or a friend? If +a foe, why did you suffer me to live? If a friend, listen what I say! +You know that we risked our lives for you! If we have no courage, why +did you not tell us? If you have more wit than we, why did you not use +it to defend yourselves against the Iroquois? How can you defend your +wives and children unless you get arms from the French!" +</P> + +<P> +"Fools," cried Radisson, striking a beaver skin across an Indian's +shoulder, "will you fight the Iroquois with beaver pelts? Do you not +know the French way? We fight with guns, not robes. The Iroquois will +coop you up here till you have used all your powder, and then despatch +you with ease! Shall your children be slaves because you are cowards? +Do what you will! For my part I choose to die like a man rather than +live like a beggar. Take back your beaver robes. We can live without +you—" and the white men strode out from the council. +</P> + +<P> +Consternation reigned among the Indians. There was an uproar of +argument. For six days the fate of the white men hung fire. Finally +the chiefs sent word that the five hundred young warriors would go to +Quebec with the white men. Radisson did not give their ardor time to +cool. They embarked at once. The fleet of canoes crossed the head of +the lakes and came to the Upper Ottawa without adventure. Scouts went +ahead to all the <I>portages</I>, and great care was taken to avoid an +ambush when passing overland. Below the Chaudière Falls the scouts +reported that four Iroquois boats had crossed the river. Again +Radisson did not give time for fear. He sent the lightest boats in +pursuit; and while keeping the enemy thus engaged with half his own +company on guard at the ends of the long <I>portage</I>, he hurriedly got +cargoes and canoes across the landing. The Iroquois had fled. By that +Radisson knew they were weak. Somewhere along the Long Sault Rapids, +the scouts saw sixteen Iroquois canoes. The Indians would have thrown +down their goods and fled, but Radisson instantly got his forces in +hand and held them with a grip of steel. Distributing loaded muskets +to the bravest warriors, he pursued the Iroquois with a picked company +of Hurons, Algonquins, Sautaux, and Sioux. Beating their paddles, +Radisson's company shouted the war-cry till the hills rang; but all the +warriors were careful not to waste an ounce of powder till within +hitting range. The Iroquois were not used to this sort of defence. +They fled. The Long Sault was always the most dangerous part of the +Ottawa. Radisson kept scouts to rear and fore, but the Iroquois had +deserted their boats and were hanging on the flanks of the company to +attempt an ambush. It was apparent that a fort had been erected at the +foot of the rapids. Leaving half the band in their boats, Radisson +marched overland with two hundred warriors. Iroquois shots spattered +from each side; but the Huron muskets kept the assailants at a +distance, and those of Radisson's warriors who had not guns were armed +with bows and arrows, and wore a shield of buffalo skin dried hard as +metal. The Iroquois rushed for the barricade at the foot of the Sault. +Five of them were picked off as they ran. For a moment the Iroquois +were out of cover, and their weakness was betrayed. They had only one +hundred and fifty men, while Radisson had five hundred; but the odds +would not long be in his favor. Ammunition was running out, and the +enemy must be dislodged without wasting a shot. Radisson called back +encouragement to his followers. They answered with a shout. Tying the +beaver pelts in great bundles, the Indians rolled the fur in front +nearer and nearer the Iroquois boats, keeping under shelter from the +shots of the fort. The Iroquois must either lose their boats and be +cut off from escape, or retire from the fort. It was not necessary for +Radisson's warriors to fire a shot. Abandoning even their baggage and +glad to get off with their lives, the Iroquois dashed to save their +boats. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-095"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-095.jpg" ALT="Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River." BORDER="2" WIDTH="300" HEIGHT="200"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +A terrible spectacle awaited Radisson inside the enclosure of the +palisades.[21] The scalps of dead Indians flaunted from the pickets. +Not a tree but was spattered with bullet marks as with bird shot. Here +and there burnt holes gaped in the stockades like wounds. Outside +along the river bank lay the charred bones of captives who had been +burned. The scarred fort told its own tale. Here refugees had been +penned up by the Iroquois till thirst and starvation did their work. +In the clay a hole had been dug for water by the parched victims, and +the ooze through the mud eagerly scooped up. Only when he reached +Montreal did Radisson learn the story of the dismantled fort. The +rumor carried to the explorers on Lake Michigan of a thousand Iroquois +going on the war-path to exterminate the French had been only too true. +Half the warriors were to assault Quebec, half to come down on Montreal +from the Ottawa. One thing only could save the French—to keep the +bands apart. Those on the Ottawa had been hunting all winter and must +necessarily be short of powder. To intercept them, a gallant band of +seventeen French, four Algonquins, and sixty Hurons led by Dollard took +their stand at the Long Sault. The French and their Indian allies were +boiling their kettles when two hundred Iroquois broke from the woods. +There was no time to build a fort. Leaving their food, Dollard and his +men threw themselves into the rude palisades which Indians had erected +the previous year. The Iroquois kept up a constant fire and sent for +reinforcements of six hundred warriors, who were on the Richelieu. In +defiance the Indians fighting for the French sallied out, scalped the +fallen Iroquois, and hoisted the sanguinary trophies on long poles +above the pickets. The enraged Iroquois redoubled their fury. The +fort was too small to admit all the Hurons; and when the Iroquois came +up from the Richelieu with Huron renegades among their warriors, the +Hurons deserted their French allies and went over in a body to the +enemy. For two days the French had fought against two hundred +Iroquois. For five more days they fought against eight hundred. "The +worst of it was," relates Radisson, "the French had no water, as we +plainly saw; for they had made a hole in the ground out of which they +could get but little because the fort was on a hill. It was pitiable. +There was not a tree but what was shot with bullets. The Iroquois had +rushed to make a breach (in the wall).… The French set fire to a +barrel of powder to drive the Iroquois back … but it fell inside +the fort.… Upon this, the Iroquois entered … so that not one +of the French escaped.… It was terrible … for we came there +eight days after the defeat." [22] +</P> + +<P> +Without a doubt it was Dollard's splendid fight that put fear in the +hearts of the Iroquois who fled before Radisson. The passage to +Montreal was clear. The boats ran the rapids without unloading; but +Groseillers almost lost his life. His canoe caught on a rock in +midstream, but righting herself shot down safely to the landing with no +greater loss than a damaged keel. The next day, after two years' +absence, Radisson and Groseillers arrived at Montreal. A brief stop +was made at Three Rivers for rest till twenty citizens had fitted out +two shallops with cannon to escort the discoverers in fitting pomp to +Quebec. As the fleet of canoes glided round Cape Diamond, battery and +bastion thundered a welcome. Welcome they were, and thrice welcome; +for so ceaseless had been the Iroquois wars that the three French ships +lying at anchor would have returned to France without a single beaver +skin if the explorers had not come. Citizens shouted from the terraced +heights of Château St. Louis, and bells rang out the joy of all New +France over the discoverers' return. For a week Radisson and +Groseillers were fêted. Viscomte d'Argenson, the new governor, +presented them with gifts and sent two brigantines to carry them home +to Three Rivers. There they rested for the remainder of the year, +Groseillers at his seigniory with his wife, Marguerite; Radisson, under +the parental roof.[23] +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Mr. Benjamin Sulte establishes this date as 1634. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] See <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1656-57-58. I have purposely refrained +from entering into the heated controversy as to the identity of these +two men. It is apart from the subject, as there is no proof these men +went beyond the Green Bay region. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] These routes were; (1) By the Saguenay, (2) by Three Rivers and the +St. Maurice, (3) by Lake Nipissing, (4) by Lake Huron, through the land +of the Sautaux, (5) by Lake Superior overland, (6) by the Ottawa. See +<I>Jesuit Relations</I> for detailed accounts of these routes. Dreuillettes +went farther west to the Crees a few years later, but that does not +concern this narrative. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] The dispute as to whether eastern Minnesota was discovered on the +1654-55-56 trip, and whether Groseillers discovered it, is a point for +savants, but will, I think, remain an unsettled dispute. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] The <I>Relations</I> do not give the names of these two Jesuits, +probably owing to the fact that the enterprise failed. They simply +state that two priests set out, but were compelled to remain behind +owing to the caprice of the savages. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] Whether they were now on the Ottawa or the St. Lawrence, it is +impossible to tell. Dr. Dionne thinks that the band went overland from +Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. I know both waters—Lake Ontario and the +Ottawa—from many trips, and I think Radisson's description here +tallies with his other descriptions of the Ottawa. It is certain that +they must have been on the Ottawa before they came to the Lake of the +Castors or Nipissing. The noise of the waterfall seems to point to the +Chaudière Falls of the Ottawa. If so, the landing place would be the +tongue of land running out from Hull, opposite the city of Ottawa, and +the <I>portage</I> would be the Aylmer Road beyond the rapids above the +falls. Mr. Benjamin Sulte, the scholarly historian, thinks they went +by way of the Ottawa, not Lake Ontario, as the St. Lawrence route was +not used till 1702. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1660. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1660, and <I>Radisson's Journal</I>. These "people +of the fire," or Mascoutins, were in three regions, (1) Wisconsin, (2) +Nebraska, (3) on the Missouri. See Appendix E. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] Benjamin Sulte unequivocally states that the river was the +Mississippi. Of writers contemporaneous with Radisson, the Jesuits, +Marie de l'Incarnation, and Charlevoix corroborate Radisson's account. +In the face of this, what are we to think of modern writers with a +reputation to lose, who brush Radisson's exploits aside as a possible +fabrication? The only conclusion is that they have not read his +<I>Journal</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[10] I refer to Radisson alone, because for half the time in 1659 +Groseillers was ill at the lake, and we cannot be sure that he +accompanied Radisson in all the journeys south and west, though +Radisson generously always includes him as "we." Besides, Groseillers +seems to have attended to the trading, Radisson to the exploring. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[11] If any one cares to render Radisson's peculiar jumble of French, +English, Italian, and Indian idioms into more intelligent form, they +may try their hand at it. His meaning is quite clear; but the words +are a medley. The passage is to be found on pp. 150-151, of the +<I>Prince Society Reprint</I>. See also <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1660. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[12] It will be noted that what I claim for Radisson is the honor of +discovering the Great Northwest, and refrain from trying to identify +his movements with the modern place names of certain states. I have +done this intentionally—though it would have been easy to advance +opinions about Green Bay, Fox River, and the Wisconsin, and so become +involved in the childish quarrel that has split the western historical +societies and obscured the main issue of Radisson's feat. Needless to +say, the world does not care whether Radisson went by way of the +Menominee, or snow-shoed across country. The question is: Did he reach +the Mississippi Valley before Marquette and Jolliet and La Salle? That +question this chapter answers. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[13] I have refrained from quoting Radisson's names for the different +Indian tribes because it would only be "caviare to the general." If +Radisson's manuscript be consulted it will be seen that the crucial +point is the whereabouts of the Mascoutins—or people of the fire. +Reference to the last part of Appendix E will show that these people +extended far beyond the Wisconsin to the Missouri. It is ignorance of +this fact that has created such bitter and childish controversy about +the exact direction taken by Radisson west-north-west of the +Mascoutins. The exact words of the document in the Marine Department +are; "In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very +numerous with whom we have no commerce who are trading yet with nobody. +Above Missoury river which is in the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins, Nadoessioux (Sioux) +with whom we trade and who are numerous." Benjamin Sulte was one of +the first to discover that the Mascoutins had been in Nebraska, though +he does not attempt to trace this part of Radisson's journey definitely. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[14] The entire account of the people on "the Forked River" is so exact +an account of the Mandans that it might be a page from Catlin's +descriptions two centuries later. The long hair, the two crops a year, +the tobacco, the soap-stone calumets, the stationary villages, the +knowledge of the Spaniards, the warm climate—all point to a region far +south of the Northern States, to which so many historians have stupidly +and with almost wilful ignorance insisted on limiting Radisson's +travels. Parkman has been thoroughly honest in the matter. His <I>La +Salle</I> had been written before the discovery of the <I>Radisson +Journals</I>; but in subsequent editions he acknowledges in a footnote +that Radisson had been to "the Forked River." Other writers (with the +exception of five) have been content to quote from Radisson's enemies +instead of going directly to his journals. Even Garneau slurs over +Radisson's explorations; but Garneau, too, wrote before the discovery +of the Radisson papers. Abbé Tanguay, who is almost infallible on +French-Canadian matters, slips up on Radisson, because his writings +preceded the publication of the <I>Radisson Relations</I>. The five writers +who have attempted to redeem Radisson's memory from ignominy are: Dr. +N. E. Dionne, of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec; Mr. Justice +Prudhomme, of St. Boniface, Manitoba; Dr. George Bryce, of Winnepeg, +Mr. Benjamin Sulte, of Ottawa; and Judge J. V. Brower, of St. Paul. It +ever a monument be erected to Radisson—as one certainly ought in every +province and state west of the Great Lakes—the names of these four +champions should be engraved upon it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[15] This claim will, I know, stagger preconceived ideas. In the light +of only Radisson's narrative, the third voyage has usually been +identified with Wisconsin and Minnesota; but in the light of the +<I>Jesuit Relations</I>, written the year that Radisson returned, to what +tribes could the descriptions apply? Even Parkman's footnote +acknowledged that Radisson was among the people of the Missouri. Grant +that, and the question arises, What people on the Missouri answer the +description? The Indians of the far west use not only coal for fire, +but raw galena to make bullets for their guns. In fact, it was that +practice of the tribes of Idaho that led prospectors to find the Blue +Bell Mine of Kootenay. Granting that the Jesuit account—which was of +course, from hearsay—mistook the use of turf, dry grass, or buffalo +refuse for a kind of coal, the fact remains that only the very far +western tribes had this custom. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[16] <I>Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[17] <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1658. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[18] See Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, and Abbé Belmont. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[19] <I>Jesuit Relations</I>, 1660. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[20] It may be well to state as nearly as possible exactly <I>what</I> +tribes Radisson had met in this trip. Those rejoined on the way up at +Manitoulin Island were refugee Hurons and Ottawas. From the Hurons, +Ottawas, and Algonquins of Green Bay, Radisson went west with +Pottowatomies, from them to the Escotecke or Sioux of the Fire, namely +a branch of the Mascoutins. From these Wisconsin Mascoutins, he learns +of the Nadoneceroron, or Sioux proper, and of the Christinos or Crees. +Going west with the Mascoutins, he comes to "sedentary" tribes. Are +these the Mandans? He compares this country to Italy. From them he +hears of white men, that he thinks may be Spaniards. This tribe is at +bitter war with Sioux and Crees. At Green Bay he hears of the Sautaux +in war with Crees. His description of buffalo hunts among the Sioux +tallies exactly with the Pembina hunts of a later day. Oldmixon says +that it was from Crees and Assiniboines visiting at Green Bay that +Radisson learned of a way overland to the great game country of Hudson +Bay. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[21] There is a mistake in Radisson's account here, which is easily +checked by contemporaneous accounts of Marie de l'Incarnation and +Dollier de Casson. Radisson describes Dollard's fight during his +fourth trip in 1664, when it is quite plain that he means 1660. The +fight has been so thoroughly described by Mr. Parkman, who drew his +material from the two authorities mentioned, and the <I>Jesuit Relations</I> +that I do not give it in detail. I give a brief account of Radisson's +description of the tragedy. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[22] It will be noticed that Radisson's account of the battle at the +Long Sault—which I have given in his own words as far as +possible—differs in details from the only other accounts written by +contemporaries; namely, Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, the +Abbé Belmont, and the Jesuits. All these must have written from +hearsay, for they were at Quebec and Montreal. Radisson was on the +spot a week after the tragedy; so that his account may be supposed to +be as accurate as any. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[23] Mr. Benjamin Sulte states that the explorers wintered on Green +Bay, 1658-1659, then visited the tribes between Milwaukee and the river +Wisconsin in the spring of 1659. Here they learn of the Sioux and the +Crees. They push southwest first, where they see the Mississippi +between April and July, 1659. Thence they come back to the Sault. +Then they winter, 1659-1660, among the Sioux. I have not attempted to +give the dates of the itinerary; because it would be a matter of +speculation open to contradiction; but if we accept Radisson's account +at all—and that account is corroborated by writers contemporaneous +with him—we must then accept <I>his</I> account of <I>where</I> he went, and not +the casual guesses of modern writers who have given his journal one +hurried reading, and then sat down, without consulting documents +contemporaneous with Radisson, to inform the world of <I>where</I> he went. +Because this is such a very sore point with two or three western +historical societies, I beg to state the reasons why I have set down +Radisson's itinerary as much farther west than has been generally +believed, though how far west he went does not efface the main and +essential fact <I>that Radisson was the true discoverer of the Great +Northwest</I>. For that, let us give him a belated credit and not obscure +the feat by disputes. (l) The term "Forked River" referred to the +Missouri and Mississippi, not the Wisconsin and Mississippi. (2) No +other rivers in that region are to be compared to the Ottawa and St. +Lawrence but the Missouri and Mississippi. (3) The Mascoutins, or +People of the Fire, among whom Radisson found himself when he descended +the Wisconsin from Green Bay, conducted him westward only as far as the +tribes allied to them, the Mascoutins of the Missouri or Nebraska. +Hence, Radisson going west-north-west to the Sioux—as he says he +did—must have skirted much farther west than Wisconsin and Minnesota. +(4) His descriptions of the Indians who knew tribes in trade with the +Spaniards must refer to the Indians south of the Big Bend of the +Missouri. (5) His description of the climate refers to the same +region. (6) The <I>Jesuit Relations</I> confirm beyond all doubt that he +was among the main body of the great Sioux Confederacy. (7) Both his +and the Jesuit reference is to the treeless prairie, which does not +apply to the wooded lake regions of eastern Minnesota or northern +Wisconsin. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +To me, it is simply astounding—and that is putting it mildly—that any +one pretending to have read <I>Radisson's Journal</I> can accuse him of +"claiming" to have "descended to the salt sea" (Gulf of Mexico). +Radisson makes no such claim; and to accuse him of such is like +building a straw enemy for the sake of knocking him down, or stirring +up muddy waters to make them look deep. The exact words of Radisson's +narrative are: "We went into ye great river that divides itself in 2, +where the hurrons with some Ottauake … had retired.… This +nation have warrs against those of the Forked River … so called +because it has l branches the one towards the west, the other towards +the South, wch. we believe runns towards Mexico, by the tokens they +gave us … they told us the prisoners they take tells them that they +have warrs against a nation … that have great beards and such +knives as we have" … etc., etc., etc.… "which made us believe +they were Europeans." This statement is <I>no</I> claim that Radisson went +to Mexico, but only that he met tribes who knew tribes trading with +Spaniards of Mexico. And yet, on the careless reading of this +statement, one historian brands Radisson as a liar for "having claimed +he went to Mexico." The thing would be comical in its impudence if it +were not that many such misrepresentations of what Radisson wrote have +dimmed the glory of his real achievements. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER IV +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1661-1664 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy—It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North—When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits—In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight—They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Radisson was not yet twenty-six years of age, and his explorations of +the Great Northwest had won him both fame and fortune. As Spain sought +gold in the New Word, so France sought precious furs. Furs were the +only possible means of wealth to the French colony, and for ten years +the fur trade had languished owing to the Iroquois wars. For a year +after the migration of the Hurons to Onondaga, not a single beaver skin +was brought to Montreal. Then began the annual visits of the Indians +from the Upper Country to the forts of the St. Lawrence. Sweeping down +the northern rivers like wild-fowl, in far-spread, desultory flocks, +came the Indians of the <I>Pays d'en Haut</I>. Down the Ottawa to Montreal, +down the St. Maurice to Three Rivers, down the Saguenay and round to +Quebec, came the treasure-craft,—light fleets of birch canoes laden to +the water-line with beaver skins. Whence came the wealth that revived +the languishing trade of New France? From a vague, far Eldorado +somewhere round a sea in the North. Hudson had discovered this sea +half a century before Radisson's day; Jean Bourdon, a Frenchman, had +coasted up Labrador in 1657 seeking the Bay of the North; and on their +last trip the explorers had learned from the Crees who came through the +dense forests of the hinterland that there lay round this Bay of the +North a vast country with untold wealth of furs. The discovery of a +route overland to the north sea was to become the lodestar of +Radisson's life.[1] +</P> + +<A NAME="img-101"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-101.jpg" ALT="Montreal in 1760" BORDER="2" WIDTH="522" HEIGHT="430"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Montreal in 1760: 1, the St. Lawrence; 20, the Dock; +18-19, Arsenal; 16, <BR> +the Church; 13-15, the Convent and Hospital; 8-12, +Sally-ports, River Side; 17, <BR> +Cannon and Wall; 3-4-5, Houses on Island.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +"We considered whether to reveal what we had learned," explains +Radisson, "for we had <I>not</I> been in the Bay of the North, knowing only +what the Crees told us. We wished to discover it ourselves and have +assurance before revealing anything." But the secret leaked out. +Either Groseillers told his wife, or the Jesuits got wind of the news +from the Indians; for it was announced from Quebec that two priests, +young La Vallière, the son of the governor at Three Rivers, six other +Frenchmen, and some Indians would set out for the Bay of the North up +the Saguenay. Radisson was invited to join the company as a guide. +Needless to say that a man who had already discovered the Great +Northwest and knew the secret of the road to the North, refused to play +a second part among amateur explorers. Radisson promptly declined. +Nevertheless, in May, 1661, the Jesuits, Gabriel Dreuillettes and +Claude Dablon, accompanied by Couture, La Vallière, and three others, +set out with Indian guides for the discovery of Hudson's Bay by land. +On June 1 they began to ascend the Saguenay, pressing through vast +solitudes below the sombre precipices of the river. The rapids were +frequent, the heat was terrific, and the <I>portages</I> arduous. Owing to +the obstinacy of the guides, the French were stopped north of Lake St. +John. Here the priests established a mission, and messengers were sent +to Quebec for instructions. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile, Radisson and Groseillers saw that no time must be lost. If +they would be first in the North, as they had been first in the West, +they must set out at once. Two Indian guides from the Upper Country +chanced to be in Montreal. Groseillers secured them by bringing both +to Three Rivers. Then the explorers formally applied to the French +governor, D'Avaugour, for permission to go on the voyage of discovery. +New France regulated the fur trade by license. Imprisonment, the +galleys for life, even death on a second offence, were the punishments +of those who traded without a license. The governor's answer revealed +the real animus behind his enthusiasm for discovery. He would give the +explorers a license if they would share half the profits of the trip +with him and take along two of his servants as auditors of the returns. +One can imagine the indignation of the dauntless explorers at this +answer. Their cargo of furs the preceding year had saved New France +from bankruptcy. Offering to venture their lives a second time for the +extension of the French domain, they were told they might do so if they +would share half the profits with an avaricious governor. Their answer +was characteristic. Discoverers were greater than governors; still, if +the Indians of the Upper Country invited his Excellency, Radisson and +Groseillers would be glad to have the honor of his company; as for his +servants—men who went on voyages of discovery had to act as both +masters and servants. +</P> + +<P> +D'Avaugour was furious. He issued orders forbidding the explorers to +leave Three Rivers without his express permission. Radisson and +Groseillers knew the penalties of ignoring this order. They asked the +Jesuits to intercede for them. Though Gareau had been slain trying to +ascend the Ottawa and Father Ménard had by this time preached in the +forests of Lake Michigan, the Jesuits had made no great discoveries in +the Northwest. All they got for their intercessions was a snub.[2] +</P> + +<P> +While messages were still passing between the governor and the +explorers, there swept down the St. Lawrence to Three Rivers seven +canoes of Indians from the Upper Country, asking for Radisson and +Groseillers. The explorers were honorable to a degree. They notified +the governor of Quebec that they intended to embark with the Indians. +D'Avaugour stubbornly ordered the Indians to await the return of his +party from the Saguenay. The Indians made off to hide in the rushes of +Lake St. Peter. The sympathy of Three Rivers was with the explorers. +Late one night in August Radisson and Groseillers—who was captain of +the soldiers and carried the keys of the fort—slipped out from the +gates, with a third Frenchman called Larivière. As they stepped into +their canoe, the sentry demanded, "Who goes?" "Groseillers," came the +answer through the dark. "God give you a good voyage, sir," called the +sentry, faithful to his captain rather than the governor. +</P> + +<P> +The skiff pushed out on the lapping tide. A bend in the river—and the +lights of the fort glimmering in long lines across the water had +vanished behind. The prow of Radisson's boat was once more heading +upstream for the Unknown. Paddling with all swiftness through the +dark, the three Frenchmen had come to the rushes of Lake St. Peter +before daybreak. No Indians could be found. Men of softer mettle +might have turned back. Not so Radisson. "We were well-armed and had +a good boat," he relates, "so we resolved to paddle day and night to +overtake the Indians." At the west end of the lake they came up with +the north-bound canoes. For three days and nights they pushed on +without rest. Naturally, Radisson did not pause to report progress at +Montreal. Game was so plentiful in the surrounding forests that +Iroquois hunters were always abroad in the regions of the St. Lawrence +and Ottawa.[3] Once they heard guns. Turning a bend in the river, +they discovered five Iroquois boats, just in time to avoid them. That +night the Frenchman, Larivière, dreamed that he had been captured by +the Mohawks, and he shouted out in such terror that the alarmed Indians +rushed to embark. The next day they again came on the trail of +Iroquois. The frightened Indians from the Upper Country shouldered +their canoes and dashed through the woods. Larivière could not keep up +and was afraid to go back from the river lest he should lose his +bearings. Fighting his way over windfall and rock, he sank exhausted +and fell asleep. Far ahead of the Iroquois boats the Upper Country +Indians came together again. The Frenchman was nowhere to be found. +It was dark. The Indians would not wait to search. Radisson and +Groseillers dared not turn back to face the irate governor. Larivière +was abandoned. Two weeks afterwards some French hunters found him +lying on the rocks almost dead from starvation. He was sent back to +Three Rivers, where D'Avaugour had him imprisoned. This outrage the +inhabitants of Three Rivers resented. They forced the jail and rescued +Larivière. +</P> + +<P> +Three days after the loss of Larivière Radisson and Groseillers caught +up with seven more canoes of Indians from the Upper Country. The union +of the two bands was just in time, for the next day they were set upon +at a <I>portage</I> by the Iroquois. Ordering the Indians to encase +themselves in bucklers of matting and buffalo hide, Radisson led the +assault on the Iroquois barricade. Trees were cut down, and the Upper +Indians rushed the rude fort with timbers extemporized into +battering-rams. In close range of the enemy, Radisson made a curious +discovery. Frenchmen were directing the Iroquois warriors. Who had +sent these French to intercept the explorers? If Radisson suspected +treachery on the part of jealous rivals from Quebec, it must have +redoubled his fury; for the Indians from the Upper Country threw +themselves in the breached barricade with such force that the Iroquois +lost heart and tossed belts of wampum over the stockades to supplicate +peace. It was almost night. Radisson's Indians drew off to consider +the terms of peace. When morning came, behold an empty fort! The +French renegades had fled with their Indian allies. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-108"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-108.jpg" ALT="Château St. Louis, Quebec, 1669, from one of the oldest prints in existence." BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="268"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Château St. Louis, Quebec, 1669, from one of the oldest +prints in existence.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Glad to be rid of the first hindrance, the explorers once more sped +north. In the afternoon, Radisson's scouts ran full tilt into a band +of Iroquois laden with beaver pelts. The Iroquois were smarting from +their defeat of the previous night; and what was Radisson's amusement +to see his own scouts and the Iroquois running from each other in equal +fright, while the ground between lay strewn with booty! Radisson +rushed his Indians for the waterside to intercept the Iroquois' flight. +The Iroquois left their boats and swam for the opposite shore, where +they threw up the usual barricade and entrenched themselves to shoot on +Radisson's passing canoes. Using the captured beaver pelts as shields, +the Upper Indians ran the gantlet of the Iroquois fire with the loss of +only one man. +</P> + +<P> +The slightest defeat may turn well-ordered retreat into panic. If the +explorers went on, the Iroquois would hang to the rear of the +travelling Indians and pick off warriors till the Upper Country people +became so weakened they would fall an easy prey. Not flight, but +fight, was Radisson's motto. He ordered his men ashore to break up the +barricade. Darkness fell over the forest. The Iroquois could not see +to fire. "They spared not their powder," relates Radisson, "but they +made more noise than hurt." Attaching a fuse to a barrel of powder, +Radisson threw this over into the Iroquois fort. The crash of the +explosion was followed by a blaze of the Iroquois musketry that killed +three of Radisson's men. Radisson then tore the bark off a birch tree, +filled the bole with powder, and in the darkness crept close to the +Iroquois barricade and set fire to the logs. Red tongues of fire +leaped up, there was a roar as of wind, and the Iroquois fort was on +fire. Radisson's men dashed through the fire, hatchet in hand. The +Iroquois answered with their death chant. Friend and foe merged in the +smoke and darkness. "We could not know one another in that skirmish of +blows," says Radisson. "There was noise to terrify the stoutest man." +In the midst of the mêlée a frightful storm of thunder and sheeted rain +rolled over the forest. "To my mind," writes the disgusted Radisson, +"that was something extraordinary. I think the Devil himself sent that +storm to let those wretches escape, so that they might destroy more +innocents." The rain put out the fire. As soon as the storm had +passed, Radisson kindled torches to search for the missing. Three of +his men were slain, seven wounded. Of the enemy, eleven lay dead, five +were prisoners. The rest of the Iroquois had fled to the forest. The +Upper Indians burned their prisoners according to their custom, and the +night was passed in mad orgies to celebrate the victory. "The sleep we +took did not make our heads giddy," writes Radisson. +</P> + +<P> +The next day they encountered more Iroquois. Both sides at once began +building forts; but when he could, Radisson always avoided war. Having +gained victory enough to hold the Iroquois in check, he wanted no +massacre. That night he embarked his men noiselessly; and never once +stopping to kindle camp-fire, they paddled from Friday night to Tuesday +morning. The <I>portages </I>over rocks in the dark cut the <I>voyageurs'</I> +moccasins to shreds. Every landing was marked with the blood of +bruised feet. Sometimes they avoided leaving any trace of themselves +by walking in the stream, dragging their boats along the edge of the +rapids. By Tuesday the Indians were so fagged that they could go no +farther without rest. Canoes were moored in the hiding of the rushes +till the <I>voyageurs</I> slept. They had been twenty-two days going from +Three Rivers to Lake Nipissing, and had not slept one hour on land. +</P> + +<P> +It was October when they came to Lake Superior. The forests were +painted in all the glory of autumn, and game abounded. White fish +appeared under the clear, still waters of the lake like shoals of +floating metal; bears were seen hulking away from the watering places +of sandy shores; and wild geese whistled overhead. After the terrible +dangers of the voyage, with scant sleep and scanter fare, the country +seemed, as Radisson says, a terrestrial paradise. The Indians gave +solemn thanks to their gods of earth and forest, "and we," writes +Radisson, "to the God of gods." Indian summer lay on the land. +November found the explorers coasting the south shore of Lake Superior. +They passed the Island of Michilimackinac with its stone arches. +Radisson heard from the Indians of the copper mines. He saw the +pictured rocks that were to become famous for beauty. "I gave it the +name of St. Peter because that was my name and I was the first +Christian to see it," he writes of the stone arch. "There were in +these places very deep caves, caused by the violence of the waves." +Jesuits had been on the part of Lake Superior near the Sault, and poor +Ménard perished in the forests of Lake Michigan; but Radisson and +Groseillers were the first white men to cruise from south to west and +west to north, where a chain of lakes and waterways leads from the +Minnesota lake country to the prairies now known as Manitoba. Before +the end of November the explorers rounded the western end of Lake +Superior and proceeded northwest. Radisson records that they came to +great winter encampments of the Crees; and the Crees did not venture +east for fear of Sautaux and Iroquois. He mentions a river of +Sturgeons, where was a great store of fish. +</P> + +<P> +The Crees wished to conduct the two white men to the wooded lake +region, northwest towards the land of the Assiniboines, where Indian +families took refuge on islands from those tigers of the plains—the +Sioux—who were invincible on horseback but less skilful in canoes. +The rivers were beginning to freeze. Boats were abandoned; but there +was no snow for snow-shoe travelling, and the explorers were unable to +transport the goods brought for trade. Bidding the Crees go to their +families and bring back slaves to carry the baggage, Radisson and +Groseillers built themselves the first fort and the first fur post +between the Missouri and the North Pole. It was evidently somewhere +west of Duluth in either what is now Minnesota or northwestern Ontario. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +This fur post was the first habitation of civilization in all the Great +Northwest. Not the railway, not the cattle trail, not the path of +forward-marching empire purposely hewing a way through the wilderness, +opened the West. It was the fur trade that found the West. It was the +fur trade that explored the West. It was the fur trade that wrested +the West from savagery. The beginning was in the little fort built by +Radisson and Groseillers. No great factor in human progress ever had a +more insignificant beginning. +</P> + +<P> +The fort was rushed up by two men almost starving for food. It was on +the side of a river, built in the shape of a triangle, with the base at +the water side. The walls were of unbarked logs, the roof of thatched +branches interlaced, with the door at the river side. In the middle of +the earth floor, so that the smoke would curl up where the branches +formed a funnel or chimney, was the fire. On the right of the fire, +two hewn logs overlaid with pine boughs made a bed. On the left, +another hewn log acted as a table. Jumbled everywhere, hanging from +branches and knobs of branches, were the firearms, clothing, and +merchandise of the two fur traders. Naturally, a fort two thousand +miles from help needed sentries. Radisson had not forgotten his +boyhood days of Onondaga. He strung carefully concealed cords through +the grass and branches around the fort. To these bells were fastened, +and the bells were the sentries. The two white men could now sleep +soundly without fear of approach. This fort, from which sprang the +buoyant, aggressive, prosperous, free life of the Great Northwest, was +founded and built and completed in two days. +</P> + +<P> +The West had begun.[4] +</P> + +<P> +It was a beginning which every Western pioneer was to repeat for the +next two hundred years: first, the log cabins; then, the fight with the +wilderness for food. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson, being the younger, went into the woods to hunt, while +Groseillers kept house. Wild geese and ducks were whistling south, but +"the whistling that I made," writes Radisson, "was another music than +theirs; for I killed three and scared the rest." Strange Indians came +through the forest, but were not admitted to the tiny fort, lest +knowledge of the traders' weakness should tempt theft. Many a night +the explorers were roused by a sudden ringing of the bells or crashing +through the underbrush, to find that wild animals had been attracted by +the smell of meat, and wolverine or wildcat was attempting to tear +through the matted branches of the thatched roof. The desire for +firearms has tempted Indians to murder many a trader; so Radisson and +Groseillers <I>cached</I> all the supplies that they did not need in a hole +across the river. News of the two white men alone in the northern +forest spread like wild-fire to the different Sautaux and Ojibway +encampments; and Radisson invented another protection in addition to +the bells. He rolled gunpowder in twisted tubes of birch bark, and ran +a circle of this round the fort. Putting a torch to the birch, he +surprised the Indians by displaying to them a circle of fire running +along the ground in a series of jumps. To the Indians it was magic. +The two white men were engirt with a mystery that defended them from +all harm. Thus white men passed their first winter in the Great +Northwest. +</P> + +<P> +Toward winter four hundred Crees came to escort the explorers to the +wooded lake region yet farther west towards the land of the +Assiniboines, the modern Manitoba. "We were Caesars," writes Radisson. +"There was no one to contradict us. We went away free from any burden, +while those poor miserables thought themselves happy to carry our +equipage in the hope of getting a brass ring, or an awl, or a +needle.… They admired our actions more than the fools of Paris +their king.…[5] They made a great noise, calling us gods and +devils. We marched four days through the woods. The country was +beautiful with clear parks. At last we came within a league of the +Cree cabins, where we spent the night that we might enter the +encampment with pomp the next day. The swiftest Indians ran ahead to +warn the people of our coming." Embarking in boats, where the water +was open, the two explorers came to the Cree lodges. They were +welcomed with shouts. Messengers marched in front, scattering presents +from the white men,—kettles to call all to a feast of friendship; +knives to encourage the warriors to be brave; swords to signify that +the white men would fight all enemies of the Cree; and abundance of +trinkets—needles and awls and combs and tin mirrors—for the women. +The Indians prostrated themselves as slaves; and the explorers were +conducted to a grand council of welcome. A feast was held, followed by +a symbolic dance in celebration of the white men's presence. +</P> + +<P> +Their entry to the Great Northwest had been a triumph: but they could +not escape the privations of the explorer's life. Winter set in with a +severity to make up for the long, late autumn. Snow fell continuously +till day and night were as one, the sombre forests muffled to silence +with the wild creatures driven for shelter to secret haunts. Four +hundred men had brought the explorers north. Allowing an average of +four to each family, there must have been sixteen hundred people in the +encampment of Crees. To prevent famine, the Crees scattered to the +winter hunting-grounds, arranging to come together again in two months +at a northern rendezvous. When Radisson and Groseillers came to the +rendezvous, they learned that the gathering hunters had had poor luck. +Food was short. To make matters worse, heavy rains were followed by +sharp frost. The snow became iced over, destroying rabbit and grouse, +which feed the large game. Radisson noticed that the Indians often +snatched food from the hands of hungry children. More starving Crees +continued to come into camp. Soon the husbands were taking the wives' +share of food, and the women were subsisting on dried pelts. The Crees +became too weak to carry their snow-shoes, or to gather wood for fire. +The cries of the dying broke the deathly stillness of the winter +forest; and the strong began to dog the footsteps of the weak. "Good +God, have mercy on these innocent people," writes Radisson; "have mercy +on us who acknowledge Thee!" Digging through the snow with their +rackets, some of the Crees got roots to eat. Others tore the bark from +trees and made a kind of soup that kept them alive. Two weeks after +the famine set in, the Indians were boiling the pulverized bones of the +waste heap. After that the only food was the buckskin that had been +tanned for clothing. "We ate it so eagerly," writes Radisson, "that +our gums did bleed.… We became the image of death." Before the +spring five hundred Crees had died of famine. Radisson and Groseillers +scarcely had strength to drag the dead from the tepees. The Indians +thought that Groseillers had been fed by some fiend, for his heavy, +black beard covered his thin face. Radisson they loved, because his +beardless face looked as gaunt as theirs.[6] +</P> + +<P> +Relief came with the breaking of the weather. The rain washed the iced +snows away; deer began to roam; and with the opening of the rivers came +two messengers from the Sioux to invite Radisson and Groseillers to +visit their nation. The two Sioux had a dog, which they refused to +sell for all Radisson's gifts. The Crees dared not offend the Sioux +ambassadors by stealing the worthless cur on which such hungry eyes +were cast, but at night Radisson slipped up to the Sioux tepee. The +dog came prowling out. Radisson stabbed it so suddenly that it dropped +without a sound. Hurrying back, he boiled and fed the meat to the +famishing Crees. When the Sioux returned to their own country, they +sent a score of slaves with food for the starving encampment. No doubt +Radisson had plied the first messengers with gifts; for the slaves +brought word that thirty picked runners from the Sioux were coming to +escort the white men to the prairie. To receive their benefactors, and +also, perhaps, to show that they were not defenceless, the Crees at +once constructed a fort; for Cree and Sioux had been enemies from time +immemorial. In two days came the runners, clad only in short garments, +and carrying bow and quiver. The Crees led the young braves to the +fort. Kettles were set out. Fagged from the long run, the Sioux ate +without a word. At the end of the meal one rose. Shooting an arrow +into the air as a sign that he called Deity to witness the truth of his +words, he proclaimed in a loud voice that the elders of the Sioux +nation would arrive next day at the fort to make a treaty with the +French. +</P> + +<P> +The news was no proof of generosity. The Sioux were the great warriors +of the West. They knew very well that whoever formed an alliance with +the French would obtain firearms; and firearms meant victory against +all other tribes. The news set the Crees by the ears. Warriors +hastened from the forests to defend the fort. The next day came the +elders of the Sioux in pomp. They were preceded by the young braves +bearing bows and arrows and buffalo-skin shields on which were drawn +figures portraying victories. Their hair was turned up in a stiff +crest surmounted by eagle feathers, and their bodies were painted +bright vermilion. Behind came the elders, with medicine-bags of +rattlesnake skin streaming from their shoulders and long strings of +bears' claws hanging from neck and wrist. They were dressed in +buckskin, garnished with porcupine quills, and wore moccasins of +buffalo hide, with the hair dangling from the heel. In the belt of +each was a skull-cracker—a sort of sling stone with a long handle—and +a war-hatchet. Each elder carried a peace pipe set with precious +stones, and stuck in the stem were the quills of the war eagle to +represent enemies slain. Women slaves followed, loaded with skins for +the elders' tents. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-120"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-120.jpg" ALT="A parley on the Plains." BORDER="2" WIDTH="629" HEIGHT="414"> +<H4> +[Illustration: A parley on the Plains.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +A great fire had been kindled inside the court of the Cree stockades. +Round the pavilion the Sioux elders seated themselves. First, they +solemnly smoked the calumet of peace. Then the chief of the Sioux rose +and chanted a song, giving thanks for their safe journey. Setting +aside gifts of rare beaver pelts, he declared that the Sioux had come +to make friends with the French, who were masters of peace and war; +that the elders would conduct the white men back to the Sioux country; +that the mountains were levelled and the valleys cast up, and the way +made smooth, and branches strewn on the ground for the white men's +feet, and streams bridged, and the doors of the tepees open. Let the +French come to the Sioux! The Indians would die for the French. A +gift was presented to invoke the friendship of the Crees. Another rich +gift of furs let out the secret of the Sioux' anxiety: it was that the +French might give the Sioux "thunder weapons," meaning guns. +</P> + +<P> +The speech being finished, the Crees set a feast before their guests. +To this feast Radisson and Groseillers came in a style that eclipsed +the Sioux. Cree warriors marched in front, carrying guns. Radisson +and Groseillers were dressed in armor.[7] At their belts they wore +pistol, sword, and dagger. On their heads were crowns of colored +porcupine quills. Two pages carried the dishes and spoons to be used +at the feast; and four Cree magicians followed with smoking calumets in +their hands. Four Indian maids carried bearskins to place on the +ground when the two explorers deigned to sit down. Inside the fort +more than six hundred councillors had assembled. Outside were gathered +a thousand spectators. As Radisson and Groseillers entered, an old +Cree flung a peace pipe at the explorers' feet and sang a song of +thanksgiving to the sun that he had lived to see "those terrible men +whose words (guns) made the earth quake." Stripping himself of his +costly furs, he placed them on the white men's shoulders, shouting: "Ye +are masters over us; dead or alive, dispose of us as you will." +</P> + +<P> +Then Radisson rose and chanted a song, in which he declared that the +French took the Crees for brethren and would defend them. To prove his +words, he threw powder in the fire and had twelve guns shot off, which +frightened the Sioux almost out of their senses. A slave girl placed a +coal in the calumet. Radisson then presented gifts; the first to +testify that the French adopted the Sioux for friends; the second as a +token that the French also took the Crees for friends; the third as a +sign that the French "would reduce to powder with heavenly fire" any +one who disturbed the peace between these tribes. The fourth gift was +in grateful recognition of the Sioux' courtesy in granting free passage +through their country. The gifts consisted of kettles and hatchets and +awls and needles and looking-glasses and bells and combs and paint, but +<I>not</I> guns. Radisson's speech was received with "Ho, ho's" of +applause. Sports began. Radisson offered prizes for racing, jumping, +shooting with the bow, and climbing a greased post. All the while, +musicians were singing and beating the tom-tom, a drum made of buffalo +hide stretched on hoops and filled with water. +</P> + +<P> +Fourteen days later Radisson and Groseillers set out for the Sioux +country, or what are now known as the Northwestern states.[8] On the +third voyage Radisson came to the Sioux from the south. On this +voyage, he came to them from the northeast. He found that the tribe +numbered seven thousand men of fighting age. He remarked that the +Sioux used a kind of coke or peat for fire instead of wood. While he +heard of the tribes that used coal for fire, he does not relate that he +went to them on this trip. Again he heard of the mountains far inland, +where the Indians found copper and lead and a kind of stone that was +transparent.[9] He remained six weeks with the Sioux, hunting buffalo +and deer. Between the Missouri and the Saskatchewan ran a well-beaten +trail northeastward, which was used by the Crees and the Sioux in their +wars. It is probable that the Sioux escorted Radisson back to the +Crees by this trail, till he was across what is now the boundary +between Minnesota and Canada, and could strike directly eastward for +the Lake of the Woods region, or the hinterland between James Bay and +Lake Superior. +</P> + +<P> +In spring the Crees went to the Bay of the North, which Radisson was +seeking; and after leaving the Sioux, the two explorers struck for the +little fort north of Lake Superior, where they had <I>cached</I> their +goods. Spring in the North was later than spring in the South; but the +shore ice of the Northern lakes had already become soft. To save time +they cut across the lakes of Minnesota, dragging their sleighs on the +ice. Groseillers' sleigh was loaded with pelts obtained from the +Sioux, and the elder man began to fag. Radisson took the heavy sleigh, +giving Groseillers the lighter one. About twelve miles out from the +shore, on one of these lakes, the ice suddenly gave, and Radisson +plunged through to his waist. It was as dangerous to turn back as to +go on. If they deserted their merchandise, they would have nothing to +trade with the Indians; but when Radisson succeeded in extricating +himself, he was so badly strained that he could not go forward another +step. There was no sense in risking both their lives on the rotten +ice. He urged Groseillers to go on. Groseillers dared not hesitate. +Laying two sleds as a wind-break on each side of Radisson, he covered +the injured man with robes, consigned him to the keeping of God, and +hurried over the ice to obtain help from the Crees. +</P> + +<P> +The Crees got Radisson ashore, and there he lay in agony for eight +days. The Indians were preparing to set out for the North. They +invited Radisson to go with them. His sprain had not healed; but he +could not miss the opportunity of approaching the Bay of the North. +For two days he marched with the hunters, enduring torture at every +step. The third day he could go no farther and they deserted him. +Groseillers had gone hunting with another band of Crees. Radisson had +neither gun nor hatchet, and the Indians left him only ten pounds of +pemmican. After a short rest he journeyed painfully on, following the +trail of the marching Crees. On the fifth day he found the frame of a +deserted wigwam. Covering it with branches of trees and kindling a +fire to drive off beasts of prey, he crept in and lay down to sleep. +He was awakened by a crackling of flame. The fire had caught the pine +boughs and the tepee was in a blaze. Radisson flung his snow-shoes and +clothing as far as he could, and broke from the fire-trap. +Half-dressed and lame, shuddering with cold and hunger, he felt through +the dark over the snow for his clothing. A far cry rang through the +forest like the bay of the wolf pack. Radisson kept solitary watch +till morning, when he found that the cry came from Indians sent out to +find him by Groseillers. He was taken to an encampment, where the +Crees were building canoes to go to the Bay of the North. +</P> + +<P> +The entire band, with the two explorers, then launched on the rivers +flowing north. "We were in danger to perish a thousand times from the +ice jam," writes Radisson. ". . . At last we came full sail from a +deep bay … we came to the seaside, where we found an old house all +demolished and battered with bullets.… They (the Crees) told us +about Europeans.… We went from isle to isle all that +summer.… This region had a great store of cows (caribou).… +We went farther to see the place that the Indians were to pass the +summer.… The river (where they went) came from the lake that +empties itself in … the Saguenay … a hundred leagues from the +great river of Canada (the St. Lawrence) … to where we were in the +Bay of the North.… We passed the summer quietly coasting the +seaside.… The people here burn not their prisoners, but knock +them on the head.… They have a store of turquoise.… They +find green stones, very fine, at the same Bay of the Sea +(labradorite).… We went up another river to the Upper Lake +(Winnipeg)." [10] +</P> + +<P> +For years the dispute has been waged with zeal worthy of a better cause +whether Radisson referred to Hudson Bay in this passage. The French +claim that he did; the English that he did not. "The house demolished +with bullets" was probably an old trading post, contend the English; +but there was no trading post except Radisson's west of Lake Superior +at that time, retort the French. By "cows" Radisson meant buffalo, and +no buffalo were found as far east as Hudson Bay, say the English; by +"cows" Radisson meant caribou and deer, and herds of these frequented +the shores of Hudson Bay, answer the French. No river comes from the +Saguenay to Hudson Bay, declare the English; yes, but a river comes +from the direction of the Saguenay, and was followed by subsequent +explorers, assert the French.[11] The stones of turquoise and green +were agates from Lake Superior, explain the English; the stones were +labradorites from the east coast of the Bay, maintain the French. So +the childish quarrel has gone on for two centuries. England and France +alike conspired to crush the man while he lived; and when he died they +quarrelled over the glory of his discoveries. The point is not whether +Radisson actually wet his oars in the different indentations of Hudson +and James bays. The point is that he found where it lay from the Great +Lakes, and discovered the watershed sloping north from the Great Lakes +to Hudson Bay. This was new ground, and entitled Radisson to the fame +of a discoverer. +</P> + +<P> +From the Indians of the bay, Radisson heard of another lake leagues to +the north, whose upper end was always frozen. This was probably some +vague story of the lakes in the region that was to become known two +centuries later as Mackenzie River. The spring of 1663 found the +explorers back in the Lake of the Woods region accompanied by seven +hundred Indians of the Upper Country. The company filled three hundred +and sixty canoes. Indian girls dived into the lake to push the canoes +off, and stood chanting a song of good-speed till the boats had glided +out of sight through the long, narrow, rocky gaps of the Lake of the +Woods. At Lake Superior the company paused to lay up a supply of +smoked sturgeon. At the Sault four hundred Crees turned back. The +rest of the Indians hoisted blankets on fishing-poles, and, with a west +wind, scudded across Lake Huron to Lake Nipissing. From Lake Nipissing +they rode safely down the Ottawa to Montreal. Cannon were fired to +welcome the discoverers, for New France was again on the verge of +bankruptcy from a beaver famine. +</P> + +<P> +A different welcome awaited them at Quebec. D'Argenson, the governor, +was about to leave for France, and nothing had come of the Jesuit +expedition up the Saguenay. He had already sent Couture, for a second +time, overland to find a way to Hudson Bay; but no word had come from +Couture, and the governor's time was up. The explorers had disobeyed +him in leaving without his permission. Their return with a fortune of +pelts was the salvation of the impecunious governor. From 1627 to 1663 +five distinct fur companies, organized under the patronage of royalty, +had gone bankrupt in New France.[12] Therefore, it became a loyal +governor to protect his Majesty's interests. Besides, the revenue +collectors could claim one-fourth of all returns in beaver except from +posts farmed expressly for the king. No sooner had Radisson and +Groseillers come home than D'Argenson ordered Groseillers imprisoned. +He then fined the explorers $20,000, to build a fort at Three Rivers, +giving them leave to put their coats-of-arms on the gate; a $30,000 +fine was to go to the public treasury of New France; $70,000 worth of +beaver was seized as the tax due the revenue. Of a cargo worth +$300,000 in modern money, Radisson and Groseillers had less than +$20,000 left.[13] +</P> + +<P> +Had D'Argenson and his successors encouraged instead of persecuted the +discoverers, France could have claimed all North America but the narrow +strip of New England on the east and the Spanish settlements on the +south. Having repudiated Radisson and Groseillers, France could not +claim the fruits of deeds which she punished.[14] +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The childish dispute whether Bourdon sailed into the bay and up to +its head, or only to 50 degrees N. latitude, does not concern +Radisson's life, and, therefore, is ignored. One thing I can state +with absolute certainty from having been up the coast of Labrador in a +most inclement season, that Bourdon could not possibly have gone to and +back from the inner waters of Hudson Bay between May 2 and August 11. +J. Edmond Roy and Mr. Sulte both pronounce Bourdon a myth, and his trip +a fabrication. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] "Shame put upon them," says Radisson. Ménard did <I>not</I> go out with +Radisson and Groseillers, as is erroneously recorded. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] I have purposely avoided stating whether Radisson went by way of +Lake Ontario or the Ottawa. Dr. Dionne thinks that he went by Ontario +and Niagara because Radisson refers to vast waterfalls under which a +man could walk. Radisson gives the height of these falls as forty +feet. Niagara are nearer three hundred; and the Chaudière of the +Ottawa would answer Radisson's description better, were it not that he +says a man could go under the falls for a quarter of a mile. "The Lake +of the Castors" plainly points to Lake Nipissing. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] The two main reasons why I think that Radisson and Groseillers were +now moving up that chain of lakes and rivers between Minnesota and +Canada, connecting Lake of the Woods with Lake Winnipeg, are: (1) +Oldmixon says it was the report of the Assiniboine Indians from Lake +Assiniboine (Lake Winnipeg) that led Radisson to seek for the Bay of +the North overland. These Assiniboines did not go to the bay by way of +Lake Superior, but by way of Lake Winnipeg. (2) A mémoire written by +De la Chesnaye in 1696—see <I>Documents Nouvelle France</I>, +1492-1712—distinctly refers to a <I>coureur's</I> trail from Lake Superior +to Lake Assiniboine or Lake Winnipeg. There is no record of any +Frenchmen but Radisson and Groseillers having followed such a trail to +the land of the Assiniboines—the Manitoba of to-day—before 1676. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] One can guess that a man who wrote in that spirit two centuries +before the French Revolution would not be a sycophant in +courts,—which, perhaps, helps to explain the conspiracy of silence +that obscured Radisson's fame. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] My reason for thinking that this region was farther north than +Minnesota is the size of the Cree winter camp; but I have refrained +from trying to localize this part of the trip, except to say it was +west and north of Duluth. Some writers recognize in the description +parts of Minnesota, others the hinterland between Lake Superior and +James Bay. In the light of the <I>mémoire</I> of 1696 sent to the French +government, I am unable to regard this itinerary as any other than the +famous fur traders' trail between Lake Superior and Lake Winnipeg by +way of Sturgeon River and the Lake of the Woods. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] <I>Radisson Relations</I>, p. 207. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] We are now on safe ground. There was a well-known trail from what +is now known as the Rat Portage region to the great Sioux camps west of +the Mississippi and Red River valleys. But again I refuse to lay +myself open to controversy by trying definitely to give either the +dates or exact places of this trip. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] If any proof is wanted that Radisson's journeyings took him far +west of the Mississippi, these details afford it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[10] <I>Radisson's Journal</I>, pp. 224, 225, 226. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[11] Mr. A. P. Low, who has made the most thorough exploration of +Labrador and Hudson Bay of any man living, says, "Rupert River forms +the discharge of the Mistassini lakes … and empties into Rupert Bay +close to the mouth of the Nottoway River, and rises in a number of +lakes close to the height of land dividing it from the St. Maurice +River, which joins the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers." +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[12] <I>Les Compagnies de Colonisation sous l'ancien régime</I>, by +Chailly-Bert. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[13] Oldmixon says: "Radisson and Groseillers met with some savages on +the Lake of Assiniboin, and from them they learned that they might go +by land to the bottom of Hudson's Bay, where the English had not been +yet, at James Bay; upon which they desired them to conduct them +thither, and the savages accordingly did it. They returned to the +Upper Lake the same way they came, and thence to Quebec, where they +offered the principal merchants to carry ships to Hudson's Bay; but +their project was rejected." Vol. I, p. 548. Radisson's figures are +given as "pounds "; but by "<I>L</I>" did he mean English "pound" or French +livre, that is 17 cents? A franc in 1660 equalled the modern dollar. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[14] The exact tribes mentioned in the <I>Mémoire of 1696</I>, with whom the +French were in trade in the West are: On the "Missoury" and south of +it, the Mascoutins and Sioux; two hundred miles beyond the "Missisipy" +the Issaguy, the Octbatons, the Omtous, of whom were Sioux capable of +mustering four thousand warriors, south of Lake Superior, the Sauteurs, +on "Sipisagny, the river which is the discharge of Lake Asemipigon" +(Winnipeg), the "Nation of the Grand Rat," Algonquins numbering two +thousand, who traded with the English of Hudson Bay, De la Chesnaye +adds in his mémoire details of the trip from Lake Superior to the lake +of the Assiniboines. Knowing what close co-workers he and Radisson +were, we can guess where he got his information. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER V +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1664-1676 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers—Entangled in +Lawsuits, the two French Explorers go to England—The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company—Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue—Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Henceforth Radisson and Groseillers were men without a country. Twice +their return from the North with cargoes of beaver had saved New France +from ruin. They had discovered more of America than all the other +explorers combined. Their reward was jealous rivalry that reduced them +to beggary; injustice that compelled them to renounce allegiance to two +crowns; obloquy during a lifetime; and oblivion for two centuries after +their death. The very force of unchecked impulse that carries the hero +over all obstacles may also carry him over the bounds of caution and +compromise that regulate the conduct of other men. This was the case +with Radisson and Groseillers. They were powerless to resist the +extortion of the French governor. The Company of One Hundred +Associates had given place to the Company of the West Indies. This +trading venture had been organized under the direct patronage of the +king.[1] It had been proclaimed from the pulpits of France. +Privileges were promised to all who subscribed for the stock. The +Company was granted a blank list of titles to bestow on its patrons and +servants. No one else in New France might engage in the beaver trade; +no one else might buy skins from the Indians and sell the pelts in +Europe; and one-fourth of the trade went for public revenue. In spite +of all the privileges, fur company after fur company failed in New +France; but to them Radisson had to sell his furs, and when the revenue +officers went over the cargo, the minions of the governor also seized a +share under pretence of a fine for trading without a license. +</P> + +<P> +Groseillers was furious, and sailed for France to demand restitution; +but the intriguing courtiers proved too strong for him. Though he +spent 10,000 pounds, nothing was done. D'Avaugour had come back to +France, and stockholders of the jealous fur company were all-powerful +at court. Groseillers then relinquished all idea of restitution, and +tried to interest merchants in another expedition to Hudson Bay by way +of the sea.[2] He might have spared himself the trouble. His +enthusiasm only aroused the quiet smile of supercilious indifference. +His plans were regarded as chimerical. Finally a merchant of Rochelle +half promised to send a boat to Isle Percée at the mouth of the St. +Lawrence in 1664. Groseillers had already wasted six months. Eager +for action, he hurried back to Three Rivers, where Radisson awaited +him. The two secretly took passage in a fishing schooner to Anticosti, +and from Anticosti went south to Isle Percée. Here a Jesuit just out +from France bore the message to them that no ship would come. The +promise had been a put-off to rid France of the enthusiast. New France +had treated them with injustice. Old France with mockery. Which way +should they turn? They could not go back to Three Rivers. This +attempt to go to Hudson Bay without a license laid them open to a +second fine. Baffled, but not beaten, the explorers did what +ninety-nine men out of a hundred would have done in similar +circumstances—they left the country. Some rumor of their intention to +abandon New France must have gone abroad; for when they reached Cape +Breton, their servants grumbled so loudly that a mob of Frenchmen +threatened to burn the explorers. Dismissing their servants, Radisson +and Groseillers escaped to Port Royal, Nova Scotia. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-134"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-134.jpg" ALT="Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three Rivers." BORDER="2" WIDTH="394" HEIGHT="264"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three +Rivers.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +In Port Royal they met a sea-captain from Boston, Zechariah Gillam, who +offered his ship for a voyage to Hudson Bay, but the season was far +spent when they set out. Captain Gillam was afraid to enter the +ice-locked bay so late in summer. The boat turned back, and the trip +was a loss. This run of ill-luck had now lasted for a year. They +still had some money from the Northern trips, and they signed a +contract with ship-owners of Boston to take two vessels to Hudson Bay +the following spring. Provisions must be laid up for the long voyage. +One of the ships was sent to the Grand Banks for fish. Rounding +eastward past the crescent reefs of Sable Island, the ship was caught +by the beach-combers and totally wrecked on the drifts of sand. +Instead of sailing for Hudson Bay in the spring of 1665, Radisson and +Groseillers were summoned to Boston to defend themselves in a lawsuit +for the value of the lost vessel. They were acquitted; but lawsuits on +the heels of misfortune exhausted the resources of the adventurers. +The exploits of the two Frenchmen had become the sensation of Boston. +Sir Robert Carr, one of the British commissioners then in the New +England colonies, urged Radisson and Groseillers to renounce allegiance +to a country that had shown only ingratitude, and to come to +England.[3] When Sir George Cartwright sailed from Nantucket on August +1, 1665, he was accompanied by Radisson and Groseillers.[4] Misfortune +continued to dog them. Within a few days' sail of England, their ship +encountered the Dutch cruiser <I>Caper</I>. For two hours the ships poured +broadsides of shot into each other's hulls. The masts were torn from +the English vessel. She was boarded and stripped, and the Frenchmen +were thoroughly questioned. Then the captives were all landed in +Spain. Accompanied by the two Frenchmen, Sir George Cartwright +hastened to England early in 1666. The plague had driven the court +from London to Oxford. Cartwright laid the plans of the explorers +before Charles II. The king ordered 40s. a week paid to Radisson and +Groseillers for the winter. They took chambers in London. Later they +followed the court to Windsor, where they were received by King Charles. +</P> + +<P> +The English court favored the project of trade in Hudson Bay, but +during the Dutch war nothing could be done. The captain of the Dutch +ship <I>Caper</I> had sent word of the French explorers to De Witt, the +great statesman. De Witt despatched a spy from Picardy, France, one +Eli Godefroy Touret, who chanced to know Groseillers, to meet the +explorers in London. Masking as Groseillers' nephew, Touret tried to +bribe both men to join the Dutch. Failing this, he attempted to +undermine their credit with the English by accusing Radisson and +Groseillers of counterfeiting money; but the English court refused to +be deceived, and Touret was imprisoned. Owing to the plague and the +war, two years passed without the vague promises of the English court +taking shape. Montague, the English ambassador to France, heard of the +explorers' feats, and wrote to Prince Rupert. Prince Rupert was a +soldier of fortune, who could enter into the spirit of the explorers. +He had fought on the losing side against Cromwell, and then taken to +the high seas to replenish broken fortunes by piracy. The wealth of +the beaver trade appealed to him. He gave all the influence of his +<I>prestige</I> to the explorers' plans. By the spring of 1668 money enough +had been advanced to fit out two boats for Hudson Bay. In the <I>Eagle</I>, +with Captain Stannard, went Radisson; in the <I>Nonsuch</I>, with Captain +Zechariah Gillam of Boston, went Groseillers. North of Ireland furious +gales drove the ships apart. Radisson's vessel was damaged and driven +back to London; but his year was not wasted. It is likely that the +account of his first voyages was written while Groseillers was away.[5] +Sometime during his stay in London he married Mary Kirke, a daughter of +the Huguenot John Kirke, whose family had long ago gone from Boston and +captured Quebec. +</P> + +<P> +Gillam's journal records that the <I>Nonsuch</I> left Gravesend the 3d of +June, 1668, reached Resolution Island on August 4, and came to anchor +at the south of James Bay on September 29.[6] It was here that +Radisson had come overland five years before, when he thought that he +discovered a river flowing from the direction of the St. Lawrence. The +river was Nemisco. Groseillers called it Rupert in honor of his +patron. A palisaded fort was at once built, and named King Charles +after the English monarch. By December, the bay was locked in the +deathly silence of northern frost. Snow fell till the air became +darkened day after day, a ceaseless fall of muffling snow; the +earth—as Gillam's journal says—"seemed frozen to death." Gillam +attended to the fort, Groseillers to the trade. Dual command was bound +to cause a clash. By April, 1669, the terrible cold had relaxed. The +ice swept out of the river with a roar. Wild fowl came winging north +in myriad flocks. By June the fort was sweltering in almost tropical +heat. The <I>Nonsuch</I> hoisted anchor and sailed for England, loaded to +the water-line with a cargo of furs. Honors awaited Groseillers in +London. King Charles created him a <I>Knight de la Jarretière</I>, an order +for princes of the royal blood.[7] In addition, he was granted a sum +of money. Prince Rupert and Radisson had, meanwhile, been busy +organizing a fur company. The success of Groseillers' voyage now +assured this company a royal charter, which was granted in May, 1670. +Such was the origin of the Hudson's Bay Company. Prince Rupert was its +first governor; Charles Bayly was appointed resident governor on the +bay. Among the first shareholders were Prince Rupert, the Duke of +York, Sir George Cartwright, the Duke of Albermarle, Shaftesbury, Sir +Peter Colleton, who had advanced Radisson a loan during the long period +of waiting, and Sir John Kirke, whose daughter had married Radisson. +</P> + +<P> +That spring, Radisson and Groseillers again sailed for the bay. In +1671, three ships were sent out from England, and Radisson established +a second post westward at Moose. With Governor Bayly, he sailed up and +met the Indians at what was to become the great fur capital of the +north, Port Nelson, or York. The third year of the company's +existence, Radisson and Groseillers perceived a change. Not so many +Indians came down to the English forts to trade. Those who came brought +fewer pelts and demanded higher prices. Rivals had been at work. The +English learned that the French had come overland and were paying high +prices to draw the Indians from the bay. In the spring a council was +held.[8] Should they continue on the east side of the bay, or move +west, where there would be no rivalry? Groseillers boldly counselled +moving inland and driving off French competition. Bayly was for moving +west. He even hinted that Groseillers' advice sprang from disloyalty +to the English. The clash that was inevitable from divided command was +this time avoided by compromise. They would all sail west, and all +come back to Rupert's River. When they returned, they found that the +English ensign had been torn down and the French flag raised.[9] A +veteran Jesuit missionary of the Saguenay, Charles Albanel, two French +companions, and some Indian guides had ensconced themselves in the +empty houses.[10] The priest now presented Governor Bayly with letters +from Count Frontenac commending the French to the good offices of +Governor Bayly.[11] +</P> + +<P> +France had not been idle. +</P> + +<P> +When it was too late, the country awakened to the injustice done +Radisson and Groseillers. While Radisson was still in Boston, all +restrictions were taken from the beaver trade, except the tax of +one-fourth to the revenue. The Jesuit Dablon, who was near the western +end of Lake Superior, gathered all the information he could from the +Indians of the way to the Sea of the North. Father Marquette learned +of the Mississippi from the Indians. The Western tribes had been +summoned to the Sault, where Sieur de Saint-Lusson met them in treaty +for the French; and the French flag was raised in the presence of Père +Claude Allouez, who blessed the ceremony. M. Colbert sent instructions +to M. Talon, the intendant of New France, to grant titles of nobility +to Groseillers' nephew in order to keep him in the country.[12] On the +Saguenay was a Jesuit, Charles Albanel, loyal to the French and of +English birth, whose devotion to the Indians during the small-pox +scourge of 1670 had given him unbounded influence. Talon, the +intendant of New France, was keen to retrieve in the North what +D'Argenson's injustice had lost. Who could be better qualified to go +overland to Hudson Bay than the old missionary, loyal to France, of +English birth, and beloved by the Indians? Albanel was summoned to +Quebec and gladly accepted the commission. He chose for companions +Saint-Simon and young Couture, the son of the famous guide to the +Jesuits. The company left Quebec on August 6, 1671, and secured a +guide at Tadoussac. Embarking in canoes, they ascended the shadowy +cañon of the Saguenay to Lake St. John. On the 7th of September they +left the forest of Lake St. John and mounted the current of a winding +river, full of cataracts and rapids, toward Mistassini. On this stream +they met Indians who told them that two European vessels were on Hudson +Bay. The Indians showed Albanel tobacco which they had received from +the English. +</P> + +<P> +It seemed futile to go on a voyage of discovery where English were +already in possession. The priest sent one of the Frenchmen and two +Indians back to Quebec for passports and instructions. What the +instructions were can only be guessed by subsequent developments. The +messengers left the depth of the forest on the 19th of September, and +had returned from Quebec by the 10th of October. Snow was falling. +The streams had frozen, and the Indians had gone into camp for the +winter. Going from wigwam to wigwam through the drifted forest. Father +Albanel passed the winter preaching to the savages. Skins of the chase +were laid on the wigwams. Against the pelts, snow was banked to close +up every chink. Inside, the air was blue with smoke and the steam of +the simmering kettle. Indian hunters lay on the moss floor round the +central fires. Children and dogs crouched heterogeneously against the +sloping tent walls. Squaws plodded through the forest, setting traps +and baiting the fish-lines that hung through airholes of the thick ice. +In these lodges Albanel wintered. He was among strange Indians and +suffered incredible hardships. Where there was room, he, too, sat +crouched under the crowded tent walls, scoffed at by the braves, teased +by the unrebuked children, eating when the squaws threw waste food to +him, going hungry when his French companions failed to bring in game. +Sometimes night overtook him on the trail. Shovelling a bed through +the snow to the moss with his snow-shoes, piling shrubs as a +wind-break, and kindling a roaring fire, the priest passed the night +under the stars. +</P> + +<P> +When spring came, the Indians opposed his passage down the river. A +council was called. Albanel explained that his message was to bring +the Indians down to Quebec and keep them from going to the English for +trade. The Indians, who had acted as middlemen between Quebec traders +and the Northern tribes, saw the advantage of undermining the English +trade. Gifts were presented by the Frenchmen, and the friendship of +the Indians was secured. On June 1, 1672, sixteen savages embarked +with the three Frenchmen. For the next ten days, the difficulties were +almost insurmountable. The river tore through a deep gorge of sheer +precipices which the <I>voyageurs</I> could pass only by clinging to the +rock walls with hands and feet. One <I>portage</I> was twelve miles long +over a muskeg of quaking moss that floated on water. At every step the +travellers plunged through to their waists. Over this the long canoes +and baggage had to be carried. On the 10th of June they reached the +height of land that divides the waters of Hudson Bay from the St. +Lawrence. The watershed was a small plateau with two lakes, one of +which emptied north, the other, south. As they approached Lake +Mistassini, the Lake Indians again opposed their free passage down the +rivers. +</P> + +<P> +"You must wait," they said, "till we notify the elders of your coming." +Shortly afterwards, the French met a score of canoes with the Indians +all painted for war. The idea of turning back never occurred to the +priest. By way of demonstrating his joy at meeting the warriors, he +had ten volleys of musketry fired off, which converted the war into a +council of peace. At the assemblage, Albanel distributed gifts to the +savages. +</P> + +<P> +"Stop trading with the English at the sea," he cried; "they do not pray +to God; come to Lake St. John with your furs; there you will always +find a <I>robe noire</I> to instruct you and baptize you." +</P> + +<P> +The treaty was celebrated by a festival and a dance. In the morning, +after solemn religious services, the French embarked. On the 18th of +June they came to Lake Mistassini, an enormous body of water similar to +the Great Lakes.[13] From Mistassini, the course was down-stream and +easier. High water enabled them to run many of the rapids; and on the +28th of June, after a voyage of eight hundred leagues, four hundred +rapids, and two hundred waterfalls, they came to the deserted houses of +the English. The very next day they found the Indians and held +religious services, making solemn treaty, presenting presents, and +hoisting the French flag. For the first three weeks of July they +coasted along the shores of James Bay, taking possession of the country +in the name of the French king. Then they cruised back to King Charles +Fort on Rupert's River.[14] They were just in time to meet the +returned Englishmen. +</P> + +<P> +Governor Bayly of the Hudson's Bay Company was astounded to find the +French at Rupert's River. Now he knew what had allured the Indians +from the bay, but he hardly relished finding foreigners in possession +of his own fort. The situation required delicate tact. Governor Bayly +was a bluff tradesman with an insular dislike of Frenchmen and +Catholics common in England at a time when bigoted fanaticism ran riot. +King Charles was on friendly terms with France. Therefore, the +Jesuit's passport must be respected; so Albanel was received with at +least a show of courtesy. But Bayly was the governor of a fur company; +and the rights of the company must be respected. To make matters +worse, the French voyageurs brought letters to Groseillers and Radisson +from their relatives in Quebec. Bayly, no doubt, wished the Jesuit +guest far enough. Albanel left in a few weeks. Then Bayly's +suspicions blazed out in open accusations that the two French explorers +had been playing a double game and acting against English interests. +In September came the company ship to the fort with Captain Gillam, who +had never agreed with Radisson from the time that they had quarrelled +about going from Port Royal to the straits of Hudson Bay. It has been +said that, at this stage, Radisson and Groseillers, feeling the +prejudice too strong against them, deserted and passed overland through +the forests to Quebec. The records of the Hudson's Bay Company do not +corroborate this report. Bayly in the heat of his wrath sent home +accusations with the returning ship. The ship that came out in 1674 +requested Radisson to go to England and report. This he did, and so +completely refuted the charges of disloyalty that in 1675 the company +voted him 100 pounds a year; but Radisson would not sit quietly in +England on a pension. Owing to hostility toward him among the English +employees of the company, he could not go back to the bay. Meantime he +had wife and family and servants to maintain on 100 pounds a year. If +England had no more need of him, France realized the fact that she had. +Debts were accumulating. Restless as a caged tiger, Radisson found +himself baffled until a message came from the great Colbert of France, +offering to pay all his debts and give him a position in the French +navy. His pardon was signed and proclaimed. In 1676, France granted +him fishing privileges on the island of Anticosti; but the lodestar of +the fur trade still drew him, for that year he was called to Quebec to +meet a company of traders conferring on the price of beaver.[15] In +that meeting assembled, among others, Jolliet, La Salle, Groseillers, +and Radisson—men whose names were to become immortal. +</P> + +<P> +It was plain that the two adventurers could not long rest.[16] +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Chailly-Bert. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] The Jesuit expeditions of Dablon and Dreuillettes in 1661 had +failed to reach the bay overland. Cabot had coasted Labrador in 1497; +Captain Davis had gone north of Hudson Bay in 1585-1587; Hudson had +lost his life there in 1610. Sir Thomas Button had explored Baffin's +Land, Nelson River, and the Button Islands in 1612; Munck, the Dane, +had found the mouth of the Churchill River in 1619, James and Fox had +explored the inland sea in 1631; Shapley had brought a ship up from +Boston in 1640; and Bourdon, the Frenchman, had gone up to the straits +in 1656-1657. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] George Carr, writing to Lord Arlington on December 14, 1665, says: +"Hearing some Frenchmen discourse in New England … of a great trade +of beaver, and afterward making proof of what they had said, he thought +them the best present he could possibly make his Majesty and persuaded +them to come to England." +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] Colonel Richard Nicolls, writing on July 31, 1665, says he +"supposes Col. Geo. Cartwright is now at sea." +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] It plainly could not have been written while <I>en route</I> across the +Atlantic with Sir George Cartwright, for it records events after that +time. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] Robson's <I>Hudson Bay</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] See Dr. N. E. Dionne, also Marie de l'Incarnation, but Sulte +discredits this granting of a title. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] See Robson's <I>Hudson Bay</I>, containing reference to the journal kept +by Gorst, Bayly's secretary, at Rupert Fort. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] See State Papers, Canadian Archives, 1676, January 26, Whitehall: +Memorial of the Hudson Bay Company complaining of Albanel, a Jesuit, +attempting to seduce Radisson and Groseillers from the company's +services; in absence of ships pulling down the British ensign and +tampering with the Indians. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[10] I am inclined to think that Albanel may not have been aware of the +documents which he carried from Quebec to the traders being practically +an offer to bribe Radisson and Groseillers to desert England. Some +accounts say that Albanel was accompanied by Groseillers' son, but I +find no authority for this. On the other hand, Albanel does not +mention the Englishmen being present. Just as Radisson and +Groseillers, ten years before, had taken possession of the old house +battered with bullets, so Albanel took possession of the deserted huts. +Here is what his account says (Cramoisy edition of the <I>Relations</I>): +"Le 28 June à peine avions nous avancé un quart de lieue, que nous +rencontrasmes à main gauche dans un petit ruisseau un heu avec ses +agrez de dix ou dou tonneaux, qui portoit le Pavilion Anglois et la +voile latine; delà à la portée du fusil, nous entrasmes dans deux +maisons desertes … nous rencontrasmes deux ou trois cabanes et un +chien abandonné.…" His tampering with the Indians was simply the +presentation of gifts to attract them to Quebec. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[11] See State Papers, Canadian Archives: M. Frontenac, the commander +of French (?) king's troops at Hudson Bay, introduces and recommends +Father Albanel. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[12] State Papers, Canadian Archives. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[13] For some years there were sensational reports that Mistassini was +larger than Lake Superior. Mr. Low, of the Canadian Geological Survey, +in a very exhaustive report, shows this is not so. Still, the lake +ranks with the large lakes of America. Mr. Low gives its dimensions as +one hundred miles long and twelve miles wide. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[14] There is a discrepancy in dates here which I leave savants to +worry out. <I>Albanel's Relation</I> (Cramoisy) is of 1672. Thomas Gorst, +secretary to Governor Bayly, says that the quarrel took place in 1674. +Oldmixon, who wrote from hearsay, says in 1673. Robson, who had access +to Hudson's Bay records, says 1676; and I am inclined to think they all +agree. In a word, Radisson and Groseillers were on bad terms with the +local Hudson's Bay Company governor from the first, and the open +quarrel took place only in 1675. Considering the bigotry of the times, +the quarrel was only natural. Bayly was governor, but he could not +take precedence over Radisson and Groseillers. He was Protestant and +English. They were Catholics and French. Besides, they were really at +the English governor's mercy; for they could not go back to Canada +until publicly pardoned by the French king. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[15] State Papers, Canadian Archives, October 20, 1676, Quebec: Report +of proceedings regarding the price of beaver … by an ordinance, +October 19, 1676, M. Jacques Duchesneau, Intendant, had called a +meeting of the leading fur traders to consult about fixing the price of +beaver. There were present, among others, Robert, Cavelier de la +Salle, … Charles le Moyne, … two Godefroys of Three +Rivers, … Groseillers, … Jolliet, … Pierre Radisson. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[16] Mr. Low's geological report on Labrador contains interesting +particulars of the route followed by Father Albanel. He speaks of the +gorge and swamps and difficult <I>portages</I> in precisely the same way as +the priest, though Albanel must have encountered the worst possible +difficulties on the route, for he went down so early in the spring. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VI +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1682-1684 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay—Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company—How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +A clever man may be a dangerous rival. Both France and England +recognized this in Radisson. The Hudson's Bay Company distrusted him +because he was a foreigner. The fur traders of Quebec were jealous. +The Hudson's Bay Company had offered him a pension of 100 pounds a year +to do nothing. France had pardoned his secession to England, paid his +debts, and given him a position in the navy, and when the fleet was +wrecked returning from the campaign against Dutch possessions in the +West Indies, the French king advanced money for Radisson to refit +himself; but France distrusted the explorer because he had an English +wife. All that France and England wanted Radisson to do was to keep +quiet. What the haughty spirit of Radisson would <I>not</I> do for all the +fortunes which two nations could offer to bribe him—was to keep quiet. +He cared more for the game than the winnings; and the game of sitting +still and drawing a pension for doing nothing was altogether too tame +for Radisson. Groseillers gave up the struggle and retired for the +time to his family at Three Rivers. At Quebec, in 1676, Radisson heard +of others everywhere reaping where he had sown. Jolliet and La Salle +were preparing to push the fur trade of New France westward of the +Great Lakes, where Radisson had penetrated twenty years previously. +Fur traders of Quebec, who organized under the name of the Company of +the North, yearly sent their canoes up the Ottawa, St. Maurice, and +Saguenay to the forests south of Hudson Bay, which Radisson had +traversed. On the bay itself the English company were entrenched. +North, northwest, and west, Radisson had been the explorer; but the +reward of his labor had been snatched by other hands. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-151"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-151.jpg" ALT=""Skin for Skin," Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay Company." BORDER="2" WIDTH="145" HEIGHT="202"> +<H4> +[Illustration: "Skin for Skin," Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay Company.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Radisson must have served meritoriously on the fleet, for after the +wreck he was offered the command of a man-of-war; but he asked for a +commission to New France. From this request there arose complications. +His wife's family, the Kirkes, had held claims against New France from +the days when the Kirkes of Boston had captured Quebec. These claims +now amounted to 40,000 pounds. M. Colbert, the great French statesman, +hesitated to give a commission to a man allied by marriage with the +enemies of New France. Radisson at last learned why preferment had +been denied him. It was on account of his wife. Twice Radisson +journeyed to London for Mary Kirke. Those were times of an easy change +in faith. Charles II was playing double with Catholics and +Protestants. The Kirkes were closely attached to the court; and it +was, perhaps, not difficult for the Huguenot wife to abjure +Protestantism and declare herself a convert to the religion of her +husband. But when Radisson proposed taking her back to France, that +was another matter. Sir John Kirke forbade his daughter's departure +till the claims of the Kirke family against New France had been paid. +When Radisson returned without his wife, he was reproached by M. +Colbert for disloyalty. The government refused its patronage to his +plans for the fur trade; but M. Colbert sent him to confer with La +Chesnaye, a prominent fur trader and member of the Council in New +France, who happened to be in Paris at that time. La Chesnaye had been +sent out to Canada to look after the affairs of a Rouen fur-trading +company. Soon he became a commissioner of the West Indies Company; and +when the merchants of Quebec organized the Company of the North, La +Chesnaye became a director. No one knew better than he how bitterly +the monopolists of Quebec would oppose Radisson's plans for a trip to +Hudson Bay; but the prospects were alluring. La Chesnaye was deeply +involved in the fur trade and snatched at the chance of profits to +stave off the bankruptcy that reduced him to beggary a few years later. +In defiance of the rival companies and independent of those with which +he was connected, he offered to furnish ships and share profits with +Radisson and Groseillers for a voyage to Hudson Bay. +</P> + +<P> +M. Colbert did not give his patronage to the scheme; but he wished +Radisson a God-speed. The Jesuits advanced Radisson money to pay his +passage; and in the fall of 1681, he arrived in Quebec. La Chesnaye +met him, and Groseillers was summoned. The three then went to the +Château Saint-Louis to lay their plans before the governor. Though the +privileges of the West Indies Company had been curtailed, the fur trade +was again regulated by license.[1] Frontenac had granted a license to +the Company of the North for the fur trade of Hudson Bay. He could not +openly favor Radisson; but he winked at the expedition by granting +passports to the explorers, and the three men who were to accompany +him, Jean Baptiste, son of Groseillers, Pierre Allemand, the pilot who +was afterward given a commission to explore the Eskimo country, and +Jean Godefroy, an interpreter.[2] Jean Baptiste, Radisson's nephew, +invested 500 pounds in goods for barter. Others of Three Rivers and +Quebec advanced money, to provision the ship.[3] Ten days after +Radisson's arrival in Quebec, the explorers had left the high fortress +of the St. Lawrence to winter in Acadia. When spring came, they went +with the fishing fleets to Isle Percée, where La Chesnaye was to send +the ships. Radisson's ship, the <I>St. Pierre</I>,—named after +himself,—came first, a rickety sloop of fifty tons with a crew of +twelve mutinous, ill-fed men, a cargo of goods for barter, and scant +enough supply of provisions. Groseillers' ship, the <I>St. Anne</I>, was +smaller and better built, with a crew of fifteen. The explorers set +sail on the 11th of July. From the first there was trouble with the +crews. Fresh-water <I>voyageurs</I> make bad ocean sailors. Food was +short. The voyage was to be long. It was to unknown waters, famous +for disaster. The sea was boisterous. In the months of June and July, +the North Atlantic is beset with fog and iceberg. The ice sweeps south +in mountainous bergs that have thawed and split before they reach the +temperate zones.[4] On the 30th of July the two ships passed the +Straits of Belle Isle. Fog-banks hung heavy on the blue of the far +watery horizon. Out of the fog, like ghosts in gloom, drifted the +shadowy ice-floes. The coast of Labrador consists of bare, domed, +lonely hills alternated with rock walls rising sheer from the sea as +some giant masonry. Here the rock is buttressed by a sharp angle +knife-edged in a precipice. There, the beetling walls are guarded by +long reefs like the teeth of a saw. Over these reefs, the drifting +tide breaks with multitudinous voices. The French <I>voyageurs</I> had +never known such seafaring. In the wail of the white-foamed reefs, +their superstition heard the shriek of the demons. The explorers had +anchored in one of the sheltered harbors, which the sailors call +"holes-in-the-wall." The crews mutinied. They would go no farther +through ice-drift and fog to an unknown sea. Radisson never waited for +the contagion of fear to work. He ordered anchors up and headed for +open sea. Then he tried to encourage the sailors with promises. They +would not hear him; for the ship's galley was nearly empty of food. +Then Radisson threatened the first mutineer to show rebellion with such +severe punishment as the hard customs of the age permitted. The crew +sulked, biding its time. At that moment the lookout shouted "Sail ho!" +</P> + +<P> +All hands discerned a ship with a strange sail, such as Dutch and +Spanish pirates carried, bearing down upon them shoreward. The lesser +fear was forgotten in the greater. The <I>St. Pierre's</I> crew crowded +sail. Heading about, the two explorers' ships threaded the rock reefs +like pursued deer. The pirate came on full speed before the wind. +Night fell while Radisson was still hiding among the rocks. +Notwithstanding reefs and high seas, while the pirate ship hove to for +the night, Radisson stole out in the dark and gave his pursuer the +slip. The chase had saved him a mutiny. +</P> + +<P> +As the vessels drove northward, the ice drifted past like a white world +afloat. When Radisson approached the entrance to Hudson Bay, he met +floes in impenetrable masses. So far the ships had avoided delay by +tacking along the edges of the ice-fields, from lake to lake of ocean +surrounded by ice. Now the ice began to crush together, driven by wind +and tide with furious enough force to snap the two ships like +egg-shells. Radisson watched for a free passage, and, with a wind to +rear, scudded for shelter of a hole-in-the-wall. Here he met the +Eskimo, and provisions were replenished; but the dangers of the +ice-fields had frightened the crews again. In two days Radisson put to +sea to avoid a second mutiny. The wind was landward, driving the ice +back from the straits, and they passed safely into Hudson Bay. The ice +again surrounded them; but it was useless for the men to mutiny. Ice +blocked up all retreat. Jammed among the floes, Groseillers was afraid +to carry sail, and fell behind. Radisson drove ahead, now skirting the +ice-floes, now pounded by breaking icebergs, now crashing into surface +brash or puddled ice to the fore. "We were like to have perished," he +writes, "but God was pleased to preserve us." +</P> + +<P> +On the 26th of August, six weeks after sailing from Isle Percée, +Radisson rode triumphantly in on the tide to Hayes River, south of +Nelson River, where he had been with the English ships ten years +before. Two weeks later the <I>Ste. Anne</I>, with Groseillers, arrived. +The two ships cautiously ascended the river, seeking a harbor. Fifteen +miles from salt water, Radisson anchored. At last he was back in his +native element, the wilderness, where man must set himself to conquer +and take dominion over earth. +</P> + +<P> +Groseillers was always the trader, Radisson the explorer. Leaving his +brother-in-law to build the fort, Radisson launched a canoe on Hayes +River to explore inland. Young Jean Groseillers accompanied him to +look after the trade with the Indians.[5] For eight days they paddled +up a river that was destined to be the path of countless traders and +pioneers for two centuries, and that may yet be destined to become the +path of a northern commerce. By September the floodtide of Hayes River +had subsided. In a week the <I>voyageurs</I> had travelled probably three +hundred miles, and were within the region of Lake Winnipeg, where the +Cree hunters assemble in October for the winter. Radisson had come to +this region by way of Lake Superior with the Cree hunters twenty years +before, and his visit had become a tradition among the tribes. Beaver +are busy in October gnawing down young saplings for winter food. +Radisson observed chips floating past the canoe. Where there are +beaver, there should be Indians; so the <I>voyageurs</I> paddled on. One +night, as they lay round the camp-fire, with canoes overturned, a deer, +startled from its evening drinking-place, bounded from the thicket. A +sharp whistle—and an Indian ran from the brush of an island opposite +the camp, signalling the white men to head the deer back; but when +Radisson called from the waterside, the savage took fright and dashed +for the woods. +</P> + +<P> +All that night the <I>voyageurs</I> kept sleepless guard. In the morning +they moved to the island and kindled a signal-fire to call the Indians. +In a little while canoes cautiously skirted the island, and the chief +of the band stood up, bow and arrow in hand. Pointing his arrows to +the deities of north, south, east, and west, he broke the shaft to +splinters, as a signal of peace, and chanted his welcome:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"Ho, young men, be not afraid!<BR> +The sun is favorable to us!<BR> +Our enemies shall fear us!<BR> +This is the man we have wished<BR> +Since the days of our fathers!"<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +With a leap, the chief sprang into the water and swam ashore, followed +by all the canoes. Radisson called out to know who was commander. The +chief, with a sign as old and universal as humanity, bowed his head in +servility. Radisson took the Indian by the hand, and, seating him by +the fire, chanted an answer in Cree:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"I know all the earth!<BR> +Your friends shall be my friends!<BR> +I come to bring you arms to destroy your enemies!<BR> +Nor wife nor child shall die of hunger!<BR> +For I have brought you merchandise!<BR> +Be of good cheer!<BR> +I will be thy son!<BR> +I have brought thee a father!<BR> +He is yonder below building a fort<BR> +Where I have two great ships!" [6]<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The chief kept pace with the profuse compliments by vowing the life of +his tribe in service of the white man. Radisson presented pipes and +tobacco to the Indians. For the chief he reserved a fowling-piece with +powder and shot. White man and Indian then exchanged blankets. +Presents were sent for the absent wives. The savages were so grateful +that they cast all their furs at Radisson's feet, and promised to bring +their hunt to the fort in spring. In Paris and London Radisson had +been harassed by jealousy. In the wilderness he was master of +circumstance; but a surprise awaited him at Groseillers' fort. +</P> + +<P> +The French habitation—called Fort Bourbon—had been built on the north +shore of Hayes or Ste. Therese River. Directly north, overland, was +another broad river with a gulflike entrance. This was the Nelson. +Between the two rivers ran a narrow neck of swampy, bush-grown land. +The day that Radisson returned to the newly erected fort, there rolled +across the marshes the ominous echo of cannon-firing. Who could the +newcomers be? A week's sail south at the head of the bay were the +English establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company. The season was far +advanced. Had English ships come to winter on Nelson River? Ordering +Jean Groseillers to go back inland to the Indians, Radisson launched +down Hayes River in search of the strange ship. He went to the salt +water, but saw nothing. Upon returning, he found that Jean Groseillers +had come back to the fort with news of more cannonading farther inland. +Radisson rightly guessed that the ship had sailed up Nelson River, +firing cannon as she went to notify Indians for trade. Picking out +three intrepid men, Radisson crossed the marsh by a creek which the +Indian canoes used, to go to Nelson River.[7] Through the brush the +scout spied a white tent on an island. All night the Frenchmen lay in +the woods, watching their rivals and hoping that some workman might +pass close enough to be seized and questioned. At noon, next day, +Radisson's patience was exhausted. He paddled round the island, and +showed himself a cannon-shot distant from the fort. Holding up a pole, +Radisson waved as if he were an Indian afraid to approach closer in +order to trade. The others hallooed a welcome and gabbled out Indian +words from a guide-book. Radisson paddled a length closer. The others +ran eagerly down to the water side away from their cannon. In signal +of friendship, they advanced unarmed. Radisson must have laughed to +see how well his ruse worked. +</P> + +<P> +"Who are you?" he demanded in plain English, "and what do you want?" +The traders called back that they were Englishmen come for beaver. +Again the crafty Frenchman must have laughed; for he knew very well +that all English ships except those of the Hudson's Bay Company were +prohibited by law from coming here to trade.[8] Though the strange +ship displayed an English ensign, the flag did not show the magical +letters "H. B. C." +</P> + +<P> +"Whose commission have you?" pursued Radisson. +</P> + +<P> +"No commission—New Englanders," answered the others. +</P> + +<P> +"Contrabands," thought Radisson to himself. Then he announced that he +had taken possession of all that country for France, had built a strong +fort, and expected more ships. In a word, he advised the New +Englanders to save themselves by instant flight; but his canoe had +glided nearer. To Radisson's surprise, he discovered that the leader +of the New England poachers was Ben Gillam of Boston, son of Captain +Gillam, the trusted servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had +opposed Radisson and Groseillers on Rupert's River. It looked as if +the contraband might be a venture of the father as well as the son.[9] +Radisson and young Gillam recognized each other with a show of +friendliness, Gillam inviting Radisson to inspect the ship with much +the same motive that the fabled spider invited the fly. Radisson took +tactful precaution for his own liberty by graciously asking that two of +the New England servants go down to the canoe with the three Frenchmen. +No sooner had Radisson gone on the New England ship than young Gillam +ordered cannon fired and English flags run up. Having made that brave +show of strength, the young man proposed that the French and the New +Englanders should divide the traffic between them for the winter. +Radisson diplomatically suggested that such an important proposal be +laid before his colleagues. In leaving, he advised Gillam to keep his +men from wandering beyond the island, lest they suffer wrong at the +hands of the French soldiers. Incidentally, that advice would also +keep the New Englanders from learning how desperately weak the French +really were. Neither leader was in the slightest deceived by the +other; each played for time to take the other unawares, and each knew +the game that was being played. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-163"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-163.jpg" ALT="Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from Tea Chest." BORDER="2" WIDTH="395" HEIGHT="161"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from Tea +Chests at York Factory, each Coin representing so many Beaver Skins.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Instead of returning by the creek that cut athwart the neck of land +between the two rivers, Radisson decided to go down Nelson River to the +bay, round the point, and ascend Hayes River to the French quarters. +Cogitating how to frighten young Gillam out of the country or else to +seize him, Radisson glided down the swift current of Nelson River +toward salt water. He had not gone nine miles from the New Englanders +when he was astounded by the spectacle of a ship breasting with +full-blown sails up the tide of the Nelson directly in front of the +French canoe. The French dashed for the hiding of the brushwood on +shore. From their concealment they saw that the ship was a Hudson's +Bay Company vessel, armed with cannon and commission for lawful trade. +If once the Hudson's Bay Company ship and the New Englanders united, +the English would be strong enough to overpower the French. +</P> + +<P> +The majority of leaders would have escaped the impending disaster by +taking ingloriously to their heels. Radisson, with that adroit +presence of mind which characterized his entire life, had provided for +his followers' safety by landing them on the south shore, where the +French could flee across the marsh to the ships if pursued. Then his +only thought was how to keep the rivals apart. Instantly he had an +enormous bonfire kindled. Then he posted his followers in ambush. The +ship mistook the fire for an Indian signal, reefed its sails, and +anchored. Usually natives paddled out to the traders' ships to barter. +These Indians kept in hiding. The ship waited for them to come; and +Radisson waited for the ship's hands to land. In the morning a gig +boat was lowered to row ashore. In it were Captain Gillam, Radisson's +personal enemy, John Bridgar,[10] the new governor of the Hudson's Bay +Company for Nelson River, and six sailors. All were heavily armed, yet +Radisson stood alone to receive them, with his three companions posted +on the outskirts of the woods as if in command of ambushed forces. +Fortune is said to favor the dauntless, and just as the boat came +within gunshot of the shore, it ran aground. A sailor jumped out to +drag the craft up the bank. They were all at Radisson's mercy—without +cover. He at once levelled his gun with a shout of "Halt!" At the +same moment his own men made as if to sally from the woods. The +English imagined themselves ambushed, and called out that they were the +officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. Radisson declared who he was and +that he had taken possession of the country for France. His musket was +still levelled. His men were ready to dash forward. The English put +their heads together and decided that discretion was the better part of +valor. Governor Bridgar meekly requested permission to land and salute +the commander of the French. Then followed a pompous melodrama of +bravado, each side affecting sham strength. Radisson told the English +all that he had told the New Englanders, going on board the Company's +ship to dine, while English hostages remained with his French +followers. For reasons which he did not reveal, he strongly advised +Governor Bridgar not to go farther up Nelson River. Above all, he +warned Captain Gillam not to permit the English sailors to wander +inland. Having exchanged compliments, Radisson took gracious leave of +his hosts, and with his three men slipped down the Nelson in their +canoe. Past a bend in the river, he ordered the canoe ashore. The +French then skirted back through the woods and lay watching the English +till satisfied that the Hudson's Bay Company ship would go no nearer +the island where Ben Gillam lay hidden. +</P> + +<P> +Groseillers and his son looked after the trade that winter. Radisson +had his hands full keeping the two English crews apart. Ten days after +his return, he again left Hayes River to see what his rivals were +doing. The Hudson's Bay Company ship had gone aground in the ooze a +mile from the fort where Governor Bridgar had taken up quarters. That +division of forces weakened the English fort. Introducing his man as +captain of a French ship, Radisson entered the governor's house. The +visitors drained a health to their host and fired off muskets to learn +whether sentinels were on guard. No attention was paid to the unwonted +noise. "I judged," writes Radisson, "that they were careless, and +might easily be surprised." He then went across to the river flats, +where the tide had left the vessel, and, calmly mounting the ladder, +took a survey of Gillam's ship. When the irate old captain rushed up +to know the meaning of the intrusion Radisson suavely proffered +provisions, of which they were plainly in need. +</P> + +<P> +The New Englanders had been more industrious. A stoutly palisaded fort +had been completed on young Gillam's island, and cannon commanded all +approach. Radisson fired a musket to notify the sentry, and took care +to beach his canoe below the range of the guns. Young Gillam showed a +less civil front than before. His lieutenant ironically congratulated +Radisson on his "safe" return, and invited him to visit the fort if he +would enter <I>alone</I>. When Radisson would have introduced his four +followers, the lieutenant swore "if the four French were forty devils, +they could not take the New Englanders' fort." The safety of the +French habitation now hung by a hair. Everything depended on keeping +the two English companies apart, and they were distant only nine miles. +The scheme must have flashed on Radisson in an intuition; for he laid +his plans as he listened to the boastings of the New Englanders. If +father and son could be brought together through Radisson's favor, +Captain Gillam would keep the English from coming to the New England +fort lest his son should be seized for poaching on the trade of the +Company; and Ben Gillam would keep his men from going near the English +fort lest Governor Bridgar should learn of the contraband ship from +Boston. Incidentally, both sides would be prevented from knowing the +weakness of the French at Fort Bourbon. At once Radisson told young +Gillam of his father's presence. Ben was eager to see his father and, +as he thought, secure himself from detection in illegal trade. +Radisson was to return to the old captain with the promised provisions. +He offered to take young Gillam, disguised as a bush-ranger. In +return, he demanded (1) that the New Englanders should not leave their +fort; (2) that they should not betray themselves by discharging cannon; +(3) that they shoot any Hudson's Bay Company people who tried to enter +the New England fort. To young Gillam these terms seemed designed for +his own protection. What they really accomplished was the complete +protection of the French from united attack. Father and son would have +put themselves in Radisson's power. A word of betrayal to Bridgar, the +Hudson's Bay governor, and both the Gillams would be arrested for +illegal trade. Ben Gillam's visit to his father was fraught with all +the danger that Radisson's daring could have desired. A seaman half +suspected the identity of the bush-ranger, and Governor Bridgar wanted +to know how Radisson had returned so soon when the French fort was far +away. "I told him, smiling," writes Radisson, "that I could fly when +there was need to serve my friends." +</P> + +<P> +Young Gillam had begun to suspect the weakness of the French. When the +two were safely out of the Hudson's Bay Company fort, he offered to go +home part of the way with Radisson. This was to learn where the French +fort lay. Radisson declined the kindly service and deliberately set +out from the New Englanders' island in the wrong direction, coming down +the Nelson past young Gillam's fort at night. The delay of the trick +nearly cost Radisson his life. Fall rains had set in, and the river +was running a mill-race. Great floes of ice from the North were +tossing on the bay at the mouth of the Nelson River in a maelstrom of +tide and wind. In the dark Radisson did not see how swiftly his canoe +had been carried down-stream. Before he knew it his boat shot out of +the river among the tossing ice-floes of the bay. Surrounded by ice in +a wild sea, he could not get back to land. The spray drove over the +canoe till the Frenchman's clothes were stiff with ice. For four hours +they lay jammed in the ice-drift till a sudden upheaval crushed the +canoe to kindling wood and left the men stranded on the ice. Running +from floe to floe, they gained the shore and beat their way for three +days through a raging hurricane of sleet and snow toward the French +habitation. They were on the side of the Hayes opposite the French +fort. Four <I>voyageurs</I> crossed for them, and the little company at +last gained the shelter of a roof. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson now knew that young Gillam intended to spy upon the French; so +he sent scouts to watch the New Englanders' fort. The scouts reported +that the young captain had sent messengers to obtain additional men +from his father; but the New England soldiers, remembering Radisson's +orders to shoot any one approaching, had levelled muskets to fire at +the reënforcements. The rebuffed men had gone back to Governor Bridgar +with word of a fort and ship only nine miles up Nelson River. Bridgar +thought this was the French establishment, and old Captain Gillam could +not undeceive him. The Hudson's Bay Company governor had sent the two +men back to spy on what he thought was a French fort. At once Radisson +sent out men to capture Bridgar's scouts, who were found half dead with +cold and hunger. The captives reported to Radisson that the English +ship had been totally wrecked in the ice jam. Bridgar's people were +starving. Many traders would have left their rivals to perish. +Radisson supplied them with food for the winter. They were no longer +to be feared; but there was still danger from young Gillam. He had +wished to visit the French fort. Radisson decided to give him an +opportunity. Ben Gillam was escorted down to Hayes River. A month +passed quietly. The young captain had learned that the boasted forces +of the French consisted of less than thirty men. His insolence knew no +bounds. He struck a French servant, called Radisson a pirate, and +gathering up his belongings prepared to go home. Radisson quietly +barred the young man's way. +</P> + +<P> +"You pitiful dog!" said the Frenchman, coolly. "You poor young fool! +Why do you suppose you were brought to this fort? We brought you here +because it suited us! We keep you here as long as it suits us! We +take you back when it suits us!" +</P> + +<P> +Ben Gillam was dumfounded to find that he had been trapped, when he had +all the while thought that he was acting the part of a clever spy. He +broke out in a storm of abuse. Radisson remanded the foolish young man +to a French guard. At the mess-room table Radisson addressed his +prisoner:— +</P> + +<P> +"Gillam, to-day I set out to capture your fort." +</P> + +<P> +At the table sat less than thirty men. Young Gillam gave one scornful +glance at the French faces and laughed. +</P> + +<P> +"If you had a hundred men instead of twenty," he jeered. +</P> + +<P> +"How many have you, Ben?" +</P> + +<P> +"Nine; and they'll kill you before you reach the palisades." +</P> + +<P> +Radisson was not talking of killing. +</P> + +<P> +"Gillam," he returned imperturbably, "pick out nine of my men, and I +have your fort within forty-eight hours." +</P> + +<P> +Gillam chose the company, and Radisson took one of the Hudson Bay +captives as a witness. The thing was done as easily as a piece of +farcical comedy. French hostages had been left among the New +Englanders as guarantee of Gillam's safety in Radisson's fort. These +hostages had been instructed to drop, as if by chance, blocks of wood +across the doors of the guard-room and powder house and barracks. Even +these precautions proved unnecessary. Two of Radisson's advance guard, +who were met by the lieutenant of the New England fort, reported that +"Gillam had remained behind." The lieutenant led the two Frenchmen +into the fort. These two kept the gates open for Radisson, who marched +in with his band, unopposed. The keys were delivered and Radisson was +in possession. At midnight the watch-dogs raised an alarm, and the +French sallied out to find that a New Englander had run to the Hudson's +Bay Company for aid, and Governor Bridgar's men were attacking the +ships. All of the assailants fled but four, whom Radisson caught +ransacking the ship's cabin. Radisson now had more captives than he +could guard, so he loaded the Hudson's Bay Company men with provisions +and sent them back to their own starving fort. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson left the New England fort in charge of his Frenchmen and +returned to the French quarters. Strange news was carried to him +there. Bridgar had forgotten all benefits, waited until Radisson's +back was turned, and, with one last desperate cast of the die to +retrieve all by capturing the New England fort and ship for the fur +company, had marched against young Gillam's island. The French threw +open the gates for the Hudson's Bay governor to enter. Then they +turned the key and told Governor Bridgar that he was a prisoner. Their +<I>coup</I> was a complete triumph for Radisson. Both of his rivals were +prisoners, and the French flag flew undisputed over Port Nelson. +</P> + +<P> +Spring brought the Indians down to the bay with the winter's hunt. The +sight of threescore Englishmen captured by twenty Frenchmen roused the +war spirit of the young braves. They offered Radisson two hundred +beaver skins to be allowed to massacre the English. Radisson thanked +the savages for their good will, but declined their offer. Floods had +damaged the water-rotted timbers of the two old hulls in which the +explorers voyaged north. It was agreed to return to Quebec in Ben +Gillam's boat. A vessel was constructed on one of the hulls to send +the English prisoners to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south +end of the bay.[11] Young Jean Groseillers was left, with seven men, +to hold the French post till boats came in the following year. On the +27th of July the ships weighed anchor for the homeward voyage. Young +Gillam was given a free passage by way of Quebec. Bridgar was to have +gone with his men to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south of the +bay, but at the last moment a friendly Englishman warned Radisson that +the governor's design was to wait till the large ship had left, head +the bark back for Hayes River, capture the fort, and put the Frenchmen +to the sword. To prevent this Bridgar, too, was carried to Quebec. +Twenty miles out the ship was caught in ice-floes that held her for a +month, and Bridgar again conspired to cut the throats of the Frenchmen. +Henceforth young Gillam and Bridgar were out on parole during the day +and kept under lock at night. +</P> + +<P> +The same jealousy as of old awaited Radisson at Quebec. The Company of +the North was furious that La Chesnaye had sent ships to Hudson Bay, +which the shareholders considered to be their territory by license.[12] +Farmers of the Revenue beset the ship to seize the cargo, because the +explorers had gone North without a permit. La Chesnaye saved some of +the furs by transshipping them for France before the vessel reached +Quebec. Then followed an interminable lawsuit, that exhausted the +profits of the voyage. La Barre had succeeded Frontenac as governor. +The best friends of La Barre would scarcely deny that his sole ambition +as governor was to amass a fortune from the fur trade of Canada. +Inspired by the jealous Company of the North, he refused to grant +Radisson prize money for the capture of the contraband ship, restored +the vessel to Gillam, and gave him clearance to sail for Boston.[13] +For this La Barre was sharply reprimanded from France; but the +reprimand did not mend the broken fortunes of the two explorers, who +had given their lives for the extension of the French domain.[14] M. +Colbert summoned Radisson and Groseillers to return to France and give +an account of all they had done; but when they arrived in Paris, on +January 15, 1684, they learned that the great statesman had died. Lord +Preston, the English envoy, had lodged such complaints against them for +the defeat of the Englishmen in Hudson Bay, that France hesitated to +extend public recognition of their services. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Within ten years so many different regulations were promulgated on +the fur trade that it is almost impossible to keep track of them. In +1673 orders came from Paris forbidding French settlers of New France +from wandering in the woods for longer than twenty-four hours. In 1672 +M. Frontenac forbade the selling of merchandise to <I>coureurs du bois</I>, +or the purchase of furs from them. In 1675 a decree of the Council of +State awarded to M. Jean Oudiette one-fourth of all beaver, with the +exclusive right of buying and selling in Canada. In 1676 Frontenac +withdrew from the <I>Cie Indes Occidentales</I> all the rights it had over +Canada and other places. An ordinance of October 1, 1682, forbade all +trade except under license. An ordinance in 1684 ordered all fur +traders trading in Hudson Bay to pay one-fourth to Farmers of the +Revenue. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] It is hard to tell who this Godefroy was. Of all the famous +Godefroys of Three Rivers (according to Abbé Tanguay) there was only +one, Jean Batiste, born 1658, who might have gone with Radisson; but I +hardly think so. The Godefroys descended from the French nobility and +themselves bore titles from the king, but in spite of this, were the +best canoemen of New France, as ready—according to Mr. Sulte—to +<I>faire la cuisine</I> as to command a fort. Radisson's Godefroy evidently +went in the capacity of a servant, for his name is not mentioned in the +official list of promoters. On the other hand, parish records do not +give the date of Jean Batiste Godefroy's death; so that he may have +gone as a servant and died in the North. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] State Papers, 1683, state that Dame Sorel, La Chesnaye, Chaujon, +Gitton, Foret, and others advanced money for the goods. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] In 1898, when up the coast of Labrador, I was told by the +superintendent of a northern whaling station—a man who has received +royal decorations for his scientific research of ocean phenomena—that +he has frequently seen icebergs off Labrador that were nine miles long. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] Jean was born in 1654 and was, therefore, twenty-eight. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] I have written both addresses as the Indians would chant them. To +be sure, they will not scan according to the elephantine grace of the +pedant's iambics; but then, neither will the Indian songs scan, though +I know of nothing more subtly rhythmical. Rhythm is so much a part of +the Indian that it is in his walk, in the intonation of his words, in +the gesture of his hands. I think most Westerners will bear me out in +saying that it is the exquisitely musical intonation of words that +betrays Indian blood to the third and fourth generation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] See Robson's map. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] State Papers: "The Governor of New England is ordered to seize all +vessels trading in Hudson Bay contrary to charter—" +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] <I>Radisson's Journal</I>, p. 277. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[10] Robson gives the commission to this governor. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[11] Later in Hudson Bay history, when another commander captured the +forts, the prisoners were sold into slavery. Radisson's treatment of +his rivals hardly substantiates all the accusations of rascality +trumped up against him. Just how many prisoners he took in this +<I>coup</I>, no two records agree. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[12] Archives, September 24, 1683: Ordinance of M. de Meulles regarding +the claims of persons interested in the expedition to Hudson Bay, +organized by M. de la Chesnaye, Gitton, Bruneau, Mme. Sorel.… In +order to avoid difficulties with the Company of the North, they had +placed a vessel at Isle Percée to receive the furs brought back … +and convey them to Holland and Spain.… Joachims de Chalons, agent +of the Company of the North, sent a <I>bateau</I> to Percée to defeat the +project. De la Chesnaye, summoned to appear before the intendant, +maintained that the company had no right to this trade, … that the +enterprise involved so many risks that he could not consent to divide +the profits, if he had any. The partners having been heard, M. de +Meulles orders that the boats from Hudson Bay be anchored at Quebec. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[13] Archives, October 25, 1683: M. de la Barre grants Benjamin Gillam +of Boston clearance for the ship <I>Le Garçon</I>, now in port at Quebec, +although he had no license from his Britannic Majesty permitting him to +enter Hudson Bay. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[14] Such foundationless accusations have been written against Radisson +by historians who ought to have known better, about these furs, that I +quote the final orders of the government on the subject: November 5, +1683, M. de la Barre forbids Chalons, agent of La Ferme du Canada, +confiscating the furs brought from Hudson Bay; November 8 M. de la +Chesnaye is to be paid for the furs seized. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1684-1710 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune—Reëngaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age—his Character +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Radisson was now near his fiftieth year. He had spent his entire life +exploring the wilds. He had saved New France from bankruptcy with +cargoes of furs that in four years amounted to half a million of modern +money. In ten years he had brought half a million dollars worth of +furs to the English company.[1] Yet he was a poor man, threatened with +the sponging-house by clamorous creditors and in the power of +avaricious statesmen, who used him as a tool for their own schemes. La +Chesnaye had saved his furs; but the half of the cargo that was the +share of Radisson and Groseillers had been seized at Quebec.[2] On +arriving in France, Groseillers presented a memorial of their wrong to +the court.[3] Probably because England and France were allied by +treaty at that time, the petition for redress was ignored. Groseillers +was now an old man. He left the struggle to Radisson and retired to +spend his days in quietness.[4] Radisson did not cease to press his +claim for the return of confiscated furs. He had a wife and four +children to support; but, in spite of all his services to England and +France, he did not own a shilling's worth of property in the whole +world. From January to May he waited for the tardy justice of the +French court. When his suit became too urgent, he was told that he had +offended the Most Christian King by attacking the fur posts under the +protection of a friendly monarch, King Charles. The hollowness of that +excuse became apparent when the French government sanctioned the +fitting out of two vessels for Radisson to go to Hudson Bay in the +spring. Lord Preston, the English ambassador, was also playing a +double game. He never ceased to reproach the French for the +destruction of the fur posts on Hudson Bay. At the same time he +besieged Radisson with offers to return to the service of the Hudson's +Bay Company. +</P> + +<P> +Radisson was deadly tired of the farce. From first to last France had +treated him with the blackest injustice. If he had wished to be rich, +he could long ago have accumulated wealth by casting in his lot with +the dishonest rulers of Quebec. In England a strong clique, headed by +Bridgar, Gillam, and Bering opposed him; but King Charles and the Duke +of York, Prince Rupert, when he was alive, Sir William Young, Sir James +Hayes, and Sir John Kirke were in his favor. His heart yearned for his +wife and children. Just then letters came from England urging him to +return to the Hudson's Bay Company. Lord Preston plied the explorer +with fair promises. Under threat of punishment for molesting the +English of Hudson Bay, the French government tried to force him into a +contract to sail on a second voyage to the North on the same terms as +in 1682-1683—not to share the profits. England and France were both +playing double. Radisson smiled a grim smile and took his resolution. +Daily he conferred with the French Marine on details of the voyage. He +permitted the date of sailing to be set for April 24. Sailors were +enlisted, stores put on board, everything was in readiness. At the +last moment, Radisson asked leave of absence to say good-by to his +family. The request was granted. Without losing a moment, he sailed +for England, where he arrived on the 10th of May and was at once taken +in hand by Sir William Young and Sir James Hayes. He was honored as +his explorations entitled him to be. King Charles and the Duke of York +received him. Both royal brothers gave him gifts in token of +appreciation. He took the oath of fealty and cast in his lot with the +English for good. It was characteristic of the enthusiast that he was, +when Radisson did not sign a strictly business contract with the +Hudson's Bay Company. "I accepted their commission with the greatest +pleasure in the world," he writes; ". . . without any precautions on my +part for my own interests … since they had confidence in me, I +wished to be generous towards them … in the hope they would render +me all the justice due from gentlemen of honor and probity." +</P> + +<P> +But to the troubles of the future Radisson always paid small heed. +Glad to be off once more to the adventurous freedom of the wilds, he +set sail from England on May 17, 1684, in the <I>Happy Return</I>, +accompanied by two other vessels. No incident marked the voyage till +the ships had passed through the straits and were driven apart by the +ice-drift of the bay. About sixty miles out from Port Nelson, the +<I>Happy Return</I> was held back by ice. Fearing trouble between young +Jean Groseillers' men and the English of the other ships, Radisson +embarked in a shallop with seven men in order to arrive at Hayes River +before the other boats came. Rowing with might and main for +forty-eight hours, they came to the site of the French fort. +</P> + +<P> +The fort had been removed. Jean Groseillers had his own troubles +during Radisson's absence. A few days after Radisson's departure in +July, 1683, cannon announced the arrival of the annual English ships on +Nelson River. Jean at once sent out scouts, who found a tribe of +Indians on the way home from trading with the ships that had fired the +cannon. The scouts brought the Indians back to the French fort. Young +Groseillers admitted the savages only one at a time; but the cunning +braves pretended to run back for things they had forgotten in the +French house. Suspecting nothing, Jean had permitted his own men to +leave the fort. On different pretexts, a dozen warriors had surrounded +the young trader. Suddenly the mask was thrown off. Springing up, +treacherous as a tiger cat, the chief of the band struck at Groseillers +with a dagger. Jean parried the blow, grabbed the redskin by his +collar of bears' claws strung on thongs, threw the assassin to the +ground almost strangling him, and with one foot on the villain's throat +and the sword point at his chest, demanded of the Indians what they +meant. The savages would have fled, but French soldiers who had heard +the noise dashed to Groseillers' aid. The Indians threw down their +weapons and confessed all: the Englishmen of the ship had promised the +band a barrel of powder to massacre the French. Jean took his foot +from the Indian's throat and kicked him out of the fort. The English +outnumbered the French; so Jean removed his fort farther from the bay, +among the Indians, where the English could not follow. To keep the +warriors about him, he offered to house and feed them for the winter. +This protected him from the attacks of the English. In the spring +Indians came to the French with pelts. Jean was short of firearms; so +he bribed the Indians to trade their peltries to the English for guns, +and to retrade the guns to him for other goods. It was a stroke worthy +of Radisson himself, and saved the little French fort. The English +must have suspected the young trader's straits, for they again paid +warriors to attack the French; but Jean had forestalled assault by +forming an alliance with the Assiniboines, who came down Hayes River +from Lake Winnipeg four hundred strong, and encamped a body-guard +around the fort. Affairs were at this stage when Radisson arrived with +news that he had transferred his services to the English. +</P> + +<P> +Young Groseillers was amazed.[5] Letters to his mother show that he +surrendered his charge with a very ill grace. "Do not forget," +Radisson urged him, "the injuries that France has inflicted on your +father." Young Groseillers' mother, Marguerite Hayet, was in want at +Three Rivers.[6] It was memory of her that now turned the scales with +the young man. He would turn over the furs to Radisson for the English +Company, if Radisson would take care of the far-away mother at Three +Rivers. The bargain was made, and the two embraced. The surrender of +the French furs to the English Company has been represented as +Radisson's crowning treachery. Under that odium the great discoverer's +name has rested for nearly three centuries; yet the accusation of theft +is without a grain of truth. Radisson and Groseillers were to obtain +half the proceeds of the voyage in 1682-1683. Neither the explorers +nor Jean Groseillers, who had privately invested 500 pounds in the +venture, ever received one sou. The furs at Port Nelson—or Fort +Bourbon—belonged to the Frenchmen, to do what they pleased with them. +The act of the enthusiast is often tainted with folly. That Radisson +turned over twenty thousand beaver pelts to the English, without the +slightest assurance that he would be given adequate return, was surely +folly; but it was not theft. +</P> + +<P> +The transfer of all possessions to the English was promptly made. +Radisson then arranged a peace treaty between the Indians and the +English. That peace treaty has endured between the Indians and the +Hudson's Bay Company to this day. A new fort was built, the furs +stored in the hold of the vessels, and the crews mustered for the +return voyage. Radisson had been given a solemn promise by the +Hudson's Bay Company that Jean Groseillers and his comrades should be +well treated and reëngaged for the English at 100 pounds a year. Now +he learned that the English intended to ship all the French out of +Hudson Bay and to keep them out. The enthusiast had played his game +with more zeal than discretion. The English had what they wanted—furs +and fort. In return, Radisson had what had misled him like a +will-o'-the-wisp all his life—vague promises. In vain Radisson +protested that he had given his promise to the French before they +surrendered the fort. The English distrusted foreigners. The +Frenchmen had been mustered on the ships to receive last instructions. +They were told that they were to be taken to England. No chance was +given them to escape. Some of the French had gone inland with the +Indians. Of Jean's colony, these alone remained. When Radisson +realized the conspiracy, he advised his fellow-countrymen to make no +resistance; for he feared that some of the English bitter against him +might seize on the pretext of a scuffle to murder the French. His +advice proved wise. He had strong friends at the English court, and +atonement was made for the breach of faith to the French. +</P> + +<P> +The ships set sail on the 4th of September and arrived in England on +the 23d of October. Without waiting for the coach, Radisson hired a +horse and spurred to London in order to give his version first of the +quarrel on the bay. The Hudson's Bay Company was delighted with the +success of Radisson. He was taken before the directors, given a +present of a hundred guineas, and thanked for his services. He was +once more presented to the King and the Duke of York. The company +redeemed its promise to Radisson by employing the Frenchmen of the +surrendered fort and offering to engage young Groseillers at 100 pounds +a year.[7] +</P> + +<A NAME="img-187"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-187.jpg" ALT="Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower Fort Garry." BORDER="2" WIDTH="392" HEIGHT="341"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower +Fort Garry, Red River. (Courtesy of C. C. Chipman, Commissioner H. B. +Company.)] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +For five years the English kept faith with Radisson, and he made annual +voyages to the bay; but war broke out with France. New France entered +on a brilliant campaign against the English of Hudson Bay. The +company's profits fell. Radisson, the Frenchman, was distrusted. +France had set a price on his head, and one Martinière went to Port +Nelson to seize him, but was unable to cope with the English. At no +time did Radisson's salary with the company exceed 100 pounds; and now, +when war stopped dividends on the small amount of stock which had been +given to him, he fell into poverty and debt. In 1692 Sir William Young +petitioned the company in his favor; but a man with a price on his head +for treason could plainly not return to France.[8] The French were in +possession of the bay. Radisson could do no harm to the English. +Therefore the company ignored him till he sued them and received +payment in full for arrears of salary and dividends on stock which he +was not permitted to sell; but 50 pounds a year would not support a man +who paid half that amount for rent, and had a wife, four children, and +servants to support. In 1700 Radisson applied for the position of +warehouse keeper for the company at London. Even this was denied. +</P> + +<P> +The dauntless pathfinder was growing old; and the old cannot fight and +lose and begin again as Radisson had done all his life. State Papers +of Paris contain records of a Radisson with Tonty at Detroit![9] Was +this his nephew, François Radisson's son, who took the name of the +explorer, or Radisson's own son, or the game old warrior himself, come +out to die on the frontier as he had lived? +</P> + +<P> +History is silent. Until the year 1710 Radisson drew his allowance of +50 pounds a year from the English Company, then the payments stopped. +Did the dauntless life stop too? Oblivion hides all record of his +death, as it obscured the brilliant achievements of his life. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +There is no need to point out Radisson's faults. They are written on +his life without extenuation or excuse, so that all may read. There is +less need to eulogize his virtues. They declare themselves in every +act of his life. This, only, should be remembered. Like all +enthusiasts, Radisson could not have been a hero, if he had not been a +bit of a fool. If he had not had his faults, if he had not been as +impulsive, as daring, as reckless, as inconstant, as improvident of the +morrow, as a savage or a child, he would not have accomplished the +exploration of half a continent. Men who weigh consequences are not of +the stuff to win empires. Had Radisson haggled as to the means, he +would have missed or muddled the end. He went ahead; and when the way +did not open, he went round, or crawled over, or carved his way through. +</P> + +<P> +There was an old saying among retired hunters of Three Rivers that "one +learned more in the woods than was ever found in l' petee +cat-ee-cheesm." Radisson's training was of the woods, rather than the +curé's catechism; yet who that has been trained to the strictest code +may boast of as dauntless faults and noble virtues? He was not +faithful to any country, but he was faithful to his wife and children; +and he was "faithful to his highest hope,"—that of becoming a +discoverer,—which is more than common mortals are to their meanest +aspirations. When statesmen played him a double game, he paid them +back in their own coin with compound interest. Perhaps that is why +they hated him so heartily and blackened his memory. But amid all the +mad license of savage life, Radisson remained untainted. Other +explorers and statesmen, too, have left a trail of blood to perpetuate +their memory; Radisson never once spilled human blood needlessly, and +was beloved by the savages. +</P> + +<P> +Memorial tablets commemorate other discoverers. Radisson needs none. +The Great Northwest is his monument for all time. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Radisson's petition to the Hudson's Bay Company gives these amounts. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] See State Papers quoted in Chapter VI. I need scarcely add that +Radisson did not steal a march on his patrons by secretly shipping furs +to Europe. This is only another of the innumerable slanders against +Radisson which State Papers disprove. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] It seems impossible that historians with the slightest regard for +truth should have branded this part of <I>Radisson's Relation</I> as a +fabrication, too. Yet such is the case, and of writers whose books are +supposed to be reputable. Since parts of Radisson's life appeared in +the magazines, among many letters I received one from a well-known +historian which to put it mildly was furious at the acceptance of +<I>Radisson's Journal</I> as authentic. In reply, I asked that historian +how many documents contemporaneous with Radisson's life he had +consulted before he branded so great an explorer as Radisson as a liar. +Needless to say, that question was not answered. In corroboration of +this part of Radisson's life, I have lying before me: (1) Chouart's +letters—see Appendix. (2) A letter of Frontenac recording Radisson's +first trip by boat for De la Chesnaye and the complications it would be +likely to cause. (3) A complete official account sent from Quebec to +France of Radisson's doings in the bay, which tallies in every respect +with <I>Radisson's Journal</I>. (4) Report of M. de Meulles to the Minister +on the whole affair with the English and New Englanders. (5) An +official report on the release of Gillam's boat at Quebec. (6) The +memorial presented by Groseillers to the French minister. (7) An +official statement of the first discovery of the bay overland. (8) A +complete statement (official) of the complications created by +Radisson's wife being English. (9) A statement through a third +party—presumably an official—by Radisson himself of these +complications dated 1683. (10) A letter from the king to the governor +at Quebec retailing the English complaints of Radisson at Nelson River. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +In the face of this, what is to be said of the historian who calls +Radisson's adventures "a fabrication"? Such misrepresentation betrays +about equal amounts of impudence and ignorance. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[4] From Charlevoix to modern writers mention is made of the death of +these two explorers. Different names are given as the places where +they died. This is all pure supposition. Therefore I do not quote. +No records exist to prove where Radisson and Groseillers died. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[5] See Appendix. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[6] State Papers record payment of money to her because she was in want. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[7] Dr. George Bryce, who is really the only scholar who has tried to +unravel the mystery of Radisson's last days, supplies new facts about +his dealings with the Company to 1710. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[8] Marquis de Denonville ordered the arrest of Radisson wherever he +might be found. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[9] Appendix; see State Papers. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap08"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART II +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA: BEING AN +ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ROCKY +MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE +VALLEY OF THE SASKATCHEWAN +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VIII +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1730-1750 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA[1] +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +M. de la Vérendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent—Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers—His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies—The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +I +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1731-1736 +</H3> + +<P> +A curious paradox is that the men who have done the most for North +America did not intend to do so. They set out on the far quest of a +crack-brained idealist's dream. They pulled up at a foreshortened +purpose; but the unaccomplished aim did more for humanity than the +idealist's dream. +</P> + +<P> +Columbus set out to find Asia. He discovered America. Jacques Cartier +sought a mythical passage to the Orient. He found a northern empire. +La Salle thought to reach China. He succeeded only in exploring the +valley of the Mississippi, but the new continent so explored has done +more for humanity than Asia from time immemorial. Of all crack-brained +dreams that led to far-reaching results, none was wilder than the +search for the Western Sea. Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle had +followed the trail that Radisson had blazed and explored the valley of +the Mississippi; but like a will-o'-the-wisp beckoning ever westward +was that undiscovered myth, the Western Sea, thought to lie like a +narrow strait between America and Japan. +</P> + +<P> +The search began in earnest one sweltering afternoon on June 8, 1731, +at the little stockaded fort on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where +Montreal stands to-day. Fifty grizzled adventurers—wood runners, +voyageurs, Indian interpreters—bareheaded, except for the colored +handkerchief binding back the lank hair, dressed in fringed buckskin, +and chattering with the exuberant nonchalance of boys out of school, +had finished gumming the splits of their ninety-foot birch canoes, and +now stood in line awaiting the coming of their captain, Sieur Pierre +Gaultier de Varennes de la Vérendrye. The French soldier with his +three sons, aged respectively eighteen, seventeen, and sixteen, now +essayed to discover the fabled Western Sea, whose narrow waters were +supposed to be between the valley of the "Great Forked River" and the +Empire of China. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-194"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-194.jpg" ALT="Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight." BORDER="2" WIDTH="404" HEIGHT="648"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Certainly, if it were worth while for Peter the Great of Russia to send +Vitus Bering coasting the bleak headlands of ice-blocked, misty shores +to find the Western Sea, it would—as one of the French governors +reported—"be nobler than open war" for the little colony of New France +to discover this "sea of the setting sun." The quest was invested with +all the rainbow tints of "<I>la gloire</I>"; but the rainbow hopes were +founded on the practical basis of profits. Leading merchants of +Montreal had advanced goods for trade with the Indians on the way to +the Western Sea. Their expectations of profits were probably the same +as the man's who buys a mining share for ten cents and looks for +dividends of several thousand per cent. And the fur trade at that time +was capable of yielding such profits. Traders had gone West with less +than $2000 worth of goods in modern money, and returned three years +later with a sheer profit of a quarter of a million. Hope of such +returns added zest to De la Vérendrye's venture for the discovery of +the Western Sea. +</P> + +<P> +Goods done up in packets of a hundred pounds lay at the feet of the +<I>voyageurs</I> awaiting De la Vérendrye's command. A dozen soldiers in +the plumed hats, slashed buskins, the brightly colored doublets of the +period, joined the motley company. Priests came out to bless the +departing <I>voyageurs</I>. Chapel bells rang out their God-speed. To the +booming of cannon, and at a word from De la Vérendrye, the gates +opened. Falling in line with measured tread, the soldiers marched out +from Mount Royal. Behind, in the ambling gait of the moccasined +woodsman, came the <I>voyageurs</I> and <I>coureurs</I> and interpreters, +pack-straps across their foreheads, packets on the bent backs, the long +birch canoes hoisted to the shoulders of four men, two abreast at each +end, heads hidden in the inverted keel. +</P> + +<P> +The path led between the white fret of Lachine Rapids and the dense +forests that shrouded the base of Mount Royal. Checkerboard squares of +farm patches had been cleared in the woods. La Salle's old +thatch-roofed seigniory lay not far back from the water. St. Anne's +was the launching place for fleets of canoes that were to ascend the +Ottawa. Here, a last look was taken of splits and seams in the birch +keels. With invocations of St. Anne in one breath, and invocations of +a personage not mentioned in the curé's "petee cat-ee-cheesm" in the +next breath, and imprecations that their "souls might be smashed on the +end of a picket fence,"—the <I>voyageur's</I> common oath even to this +day,—the boatmen stored goods fore, aft, and athwart till each long +canoe sank to the gunwale as it was gently pushed out on the water. A +last sign of the cross, and the lithe figures leap light as a mountain +cat to their place in the canoes. There are four benches of paddlers, +two abreast, with bowman and steersman, to each canoe. One can guess +that the explorer and his sons and his nephew, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, +who was to be second in command, all unhatted as they heard the long +last farewell of the bells. Every eye is fastened on the chief +bowman's steel-shod pole, held high—there is silence but for the +bells—the bowman's pole is lowered—as with one stroke out sweep the +paddles in a poetry of motion. The chimes die away over the water, the +chapel spire gleams—it, too, is gone. Some one strikes up a plaintive +ditty,—the <I>voyageur's</I> song of the lost lady and the faded roses, or +the dying farewell of Cadieux, the hunter, to his comrades,—and the +adventurers are launched for the Western Sea. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-196"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-196.jpg" ALT="Fight at the Foot-hills of the Rockies between Crows and Snakes." BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="633"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fight at the Foot-hills of the Rockies between Crows and +Snakes.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +II +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1731-1736 +</H3> + +<P> +Every mile westward was consecrated by heroism. There was the place +where Cadieux, the white hunter, went ashore single-handed to hold the +Iroquois at bay, while his comrades escaped by running the rapids; but +Cadieux was assailed by a subtler foe than the Iroquois, <I>la folie des +bois</I>,—the folly of the woods,—that sends the hunter wandering in +endless circles till he dies from hunger; and when his companions +returned, Cadieux lay in eternal sleep with a death chant scribbled on +bark across his breast. There were the Rapids of the Long Sault where +Dollard and seventeen Frenchmen fought seven hundred Iroquois till +every white man fell. Not one of all De la Vérendrye's fifty followers +but knew that perils as great awaited him. +</P> + +<P> +Streaked foam told the voyageurs where they were approaching rapids. +Alert as a hawk, the bowman stroked for the shore; and his stroke was +answered by all paddles. If the water were high enough to carry the +canoes above rocks, and the rapids were not too violent, several of the +boatmen leaped out to knees in water, and "tracked" the canoes up +stream; but this was unusual with loaded craft. The bowman steadied +the beached keel. Each man landed with pack on his back, lighted his +pipe, and trotted away over portages so dank and slippery that only a +moccasined foot could gain hold. On long portages, camp-fires were +kindled and the kettles slung on the crotched sticks for the evening +meal. At night, the voyageurs slept under the overturned canoes, or +lay on the sand with bare faces to the sky. Morning mist had not risen +till all the boats were once more breasting the flood of the Ottawa. +For a month the canoe prows met the current when a portage lifted the +fleet out of the Ottawa into a shallow stream flowing toward Lake +Nipissing, and from Lake Nipissing to Lake Huron. The change was a +welcome relief. The canoes now rode with the current; and when a wind +sprang up astern, blanket sails were hoisted that let the boatmen lie +back, paddles athwart. Going with the stream, the <I>voyageurs</I> would +"run"—"<I>sauter les rapides</I>"—the safest of the cataracts. Bowman, +not steersman, was the pilot of such "runs." A faint, far swish as of +night wind, little forward leaps and swirls of the current, the blur of +trees on either bank, were signs to the bowman. He rose in his +place. A thrust of the steel-shod pole at a rock in mid-stream—the +rock raced past; a throb of the keel to the live waters below—the +bowman crouches back, lightening the prow just as a rider "lifts" his +horse to the leap; a sudden splash—the thing has happened—the canoe +has run the rapids or shot the falls. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-199"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-199.jpg" ALT=""Each man landed with pack on his back, and trotted away over portages."" BORDER="2" WIDTH="395" HEIGHT="447"> +<H4> +[Illustration: "Each man landed with pack on his back, and trotted +away over portages."] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Pause was made at Lake Huron for favorable weather; and a rear wind +would carry the canoes at a bouncing pace clear across to +Michilimackinac, at the mouth of Lake Michigan. This was the chief fur +post of the lakes at that time. All the boats bound east or west, +Sioux and Cree and Iroquois and Fox, traders' and priests' and +outlaws'—stopped at Michilimackinac. Vice and brandy and religion +were the characteristics of the fort. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-200"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-200.jpg" ALT="A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands." BORDER="2" WIDTH="248" HEIGHT="430"> +<H4> +[Illustration: A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +This was familiar ground to De la Vérendrye. It was at the lonely fur +post of Nepigon, north of Michilimackinac, in the midst of a wilderness +forest, that he had eaten his heart out with baffled ambition from 1728 +to 1730, when he descended to Montreal to lay before M. de Beauharnois, +the governor, plans for the discovery of the Western Sea. Born at +Three Rivers in 1686, where the passion for discovery and Radisson's +fame were in the very air and traders from the wilderness of the Upper +Country wintered, young Pierre Gaultier de Varennes de la Vérendrye, at +the ambitious age of fourteen, determined that he would become a +discoverer.[2] At eighteen he was fighting in New England, at nineteen +in Newfoundland, at twenty-three in Europe at the battle of Malplaquet, +where he was carried off the field with nine wounds. Eager for more +distinguished service, he returned to Canada in his twenty-seventh +year, only to find himself relegated to an obscure trading post in far +Northern wilds. Then the boyhood ambitions reawakened. All France and +Canada, too, were ringing with projects for the discovery of the +Western Sea. Russia was acting. France knew it. The great priest +Charlevoix had been sent to Canada to investigate plans for the +venture, and had recommended an advance westward through the country of +the Sioux; but the Sioux[3] swarmed round the little fort at Lake Pepin +on the Mississippi like angry wasps. That way, exploration was plainly +barred. Nothing came of the attempt except a brisk fur trade and a +brisker warfare on the part of the Sioux. At the lonely post of +Nepigon, vague Indian tales came to De la Vérendrye of "a great river +flowing west" and "a vast, flat country devoid of timber" with "large +herds of cattle." Ochagach, an old Indian, drew maps on birch bark +showing rivers that emptied into the Western Sea. De la Vérendrye's +smouldering ambitions kindled. He hurried to Michilimackinac. There +the traders and Indians told the same story. Glory seemed suddenly +within De la Vérendrye's grasp. Carried away with the passion for +discovery that ruled his age, he took passage in the canoes bound for +Quebec. The Marquis Charles de Beauharnois had become governor. His +brother Claude had taken part in the exploration of the Mississippi. +The governor favored the project of the Western Sea. Perhaps Russia's +activity gave edge to the governor's zest; but he promised De la +Vérendrye the court's patronage and prestige. This was not money. +France would not advance the enthusiast one sou, but granted him a +monopoly of the fur trade in the countries which he might discover. +The winter of 1731-1732 was spent by De la Vérendrye as the guest of +the governor at Château St. Louis, arranging with merchants to furnish +goods for trade; and on May 19 the agreement was signed. By a lucky +coincidence, the same winter that M. de la Vérendrye had come down to +Quebec, there had arrived from the Mississippi fort, his nephew, +Christopher Dufrost, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, who had commanded the Sioux +post and been prisoner among the Indians. So M. de la Vérendrye chose +Jemmeraie for lieutenant. +</P> + +<P> +And now the explorer was back at Michilimackinac, on the way to the +accomplishment of the daring ambition of his life. The trip from +Montreal had fatigued the <I>voyageurs</I>. Brandy flowed at the lake post +freely as at a modern mining camp. The explorer kept military +discipline over his men. They received no pay which could be +squandered away on liquor. Discontent grew rife. Taking Father +Messaiger, the Jesuit, as chaplain, M. de la Vérendrye ordered his +grumbling <I>voyageurs</I> to their canoes, and, passing through the Straits +of the Sault, headed his fleet once more for the Western Sea. Other +explorers had preceded him on this part of the route. The Jesuits had +coasted the north shore of Lake Superior. So had Radisson. In 1688 De +Noyon of Three Rivers had gone as far west as the Lake of the Woods +towards what is now Minnesota and Manitoba; and in 1717 De Lanoue had +built a fur post at Kaministiquia, near what is now Fort William on +Lake Superior. The shore was always perilous to the boatman of frail +craft. The harbors were fathoms deep, and the waves thrashed by a +cross wind often proved as dangerous as the high sea. It took M. de la +Vérendrye's canoemen a month to coast from the Straits of Mackinaw to +Kaministiquia, which they reached on the 26th of August, seventy-eight +days after they had left Montreal. The same distance is now traversed +in two days. +</P> + +<P> +Prospects were not encouraging. The crews were sulky. Kaministiquia +was the outermost post in the West. Within a month, the early Northern +winter would set in. One hunter can scramble for his winter's food +where fifty will certainly starve; and the Indians could not be +expected back from the chase with supplies of furs and food till +spring. The canoemen had received no pay. Free as woodland denizens, +they chafed under military command. Boats were always setting out at +this season for the homeland hamlets of the St. Lawrence; and perhaps +other hunters told De la Vérendrye's men that this Western Sea was a +will-o'-the-wisp that would lead for leagues and leagues over strange +lands, through hostile tribes, to a lonely death in the wilderness. +When the explorer ordered his men once more in line to launch for the +Western Sea, there was outright mutiny. Soldiers and boatmen refused +to go on. The Jesuit Messaiger threatened and expostulated with the +men. Jemmeraie, who had been among the Sioux, interceded with the +<I>voyageurs</I>. A compromise was effected. Half the boatmen would go +ahead with Jemmeraie if M. de la Vérendrye would remain with the other +half at Lake Superior as a rear guard for retreat and the supply of +provisions. So the explorer suffered his first check in the advance to +the Western Sea. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +III +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1732-1736 +</H3> + +<P> +Equipping four canoes, Lieutenant de la Jemmeraie and young Jean +Ba'tiste de la Vérendrye set out with thirty men from Kaministiquia, +<I>portaged</I> through dense forests over moss and dank rock past the high +cataract of the falls, and launched westward to prepare a fort for the +reception of their leader in spring. Before winter had closed +navigation, Fort St. Pierre—named in honor of the explorer—had been +erected on the left bank or Minnesota side of Rainy Lake, and the two +young men not only succeeded in holding their mutinous followers, but +drove a thriving trade in furs with the Crees. Perhaps the furs were +obtained at too great cost, for ammunition and firearms were the price +paid, but the same mistake has been made at a later day for a lesser +object than the discovery of the Western Sea. The spring of 1732 saw +the young men back at Lake Superior, going post-haste to +Michilimackinac to exchange furs for the goods from Montreal. +</P> + +<P> +On the 8th of June, exactly a year from the day that he had left +Montreal, M. de la Vérendrye pushed forward with all his people for +Fort St. Pierre. Five weeks later he was welcomed inside the +stockades. Uniformed soldiers were a wonder to the awe-struck Crees, +who hung round the gateway with hands over their hushed lips. Gifts of +ammunition won the loyalty of the chiefs. Not to be lacking in +generosity, the Indians collected fifty of their gaudiest canoes and +offered to escort the explorer west to the Lake of the Woods. De la +Vérendrye could not miss such an offer. Though his <I>voyageurs</I> were +fatigued, he set out at once. He had reached Fort St. Pierre on July +14. In August his entire fleet glided over the Lake of the Woods. The +threescore canoes manned by the Cree boatmen threaded the shadowy +defiles and labyrinthine channels of the Lake of the Woods—or Lake of +the Isles—coasting island after island along the south or Minnesota +shore westward to the opening of the river at the northwest angle. +This was the border of the Sioux territory. Before the boatmen opened +the channel of an unknown river. Around them were sheltered harbors, +good hunting, and good fishing. The Crees favored this region for +winter camping ground because they could hide their families from the +Sioux on the sheltered islands of the wooded lake. Night frosts had +painted the forests red. The flacker of wild-fowl overhead, the skim +of ice forming on the lake, the poignant sting of the north wind—all +fore-warned winter's approach. Jean de la Vérendrye had not come up +with the supplies from Michilimackinac. The explorer did not tempt +mutiny by going farther. He ordered a halt and began building a fort +that was to be the centre of operations between Montreal and the +unfound Western Sea. The fort was named St. Charles in honor of +Beauharnois. It was defended by four rows of thick palisades fifteen +feet high. In the middle of the enclosure stood the living quarters, +log cabins with thatched roofs. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-207"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-207.jpg" ALT="A Group of Cree Indians." BORDER="2" WIDTH="414" HEIGHT="264"> +<H4> +[Illustration: A Group of Cree Indians.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +By October the Indians had scattered to their hunting-grounds like +leaves to the wind. The ice thickened. By November the islands were +ice-locked and snow had drifted waist-high through the forests. The +<I>voyageurs</I> could still fish through ice holes for food; but where was +young Jean who was to bring up provisions from Michilimackinac? The +commander did not voice his fears; and his men were too deep in the +wilds for desertion. One afternoon, a shout sounded from the silent +woods, and out from the white-edged evergreens stepped a figure on +snowshoes—Jean de la Vérendrye, leading his boatmen, with the +provisions packed on their backs, from a point fifty miles away where +the ice had caught the canoes. If the supplies had not come, the +explorer could neither have advanced nor retreated in spring. It was a +risk that De la Vérendrye did not intend to have repeated. Suspecting +that his merchant partners were dissatisfied, he sent Jemmeraie down to +Montreal in 1733 to report and urge the necessity for prompt forwarding +of all supplies. With Jemmeraie went the Jesuit Messaiger; but their +combined explanations failed to satisfy the merchants of Montreal. De +la Vérendrye had now been away three years. True, he had constructed +two fur posts and sent East two cargoes of furs. His partners were +looking for enormous wealth. Disappointed and caring nothing for the +Western Sea; perhaps, too, secretly accusing De la Vérendrye of making +profits privately, as many a gentleman of fortune did,—the merchants +decided to advance provisions only in proportion to earnings. What +would become of the fifty men in the Northern wilderness the partners +neither asked nor cared. +</P> + +<P> +Young Jean had meanwhile pushed on and built Fort Maurepas on Lake +Winnipeg; but his father dared not leave Fort St. Charles without +supplies. De la Vérendrye's position was now desperate. He was +hopelessly in debt to his men for wages. That did not help discipline. +His partners were not only withholding supplies, but charging up a high +rate of interest on the first equipment. To turn back meant ruin. To +go forward he was powerless. Leaving Jemmeraie in command, and +permitting his eager son to go ahead with a few picked men to Fort +Maurepas on Lake Winnipeg, De la Vérendrye took a small canoe and +descended with all swiftness to Quebec. The winter of 1634-1635 was +spent with the governor; and the partners were convinced that they must +either go on with the venture or lose all. They consented to continue +supplying goods, but also charging all outlay against the explorer. +</P> + +<P> +Father Aulneau went back with De la Vérendrye as chaplain. The trip +was made at terrible speed, in the hottest season, through stifling +forest fires. Behind, at slower pace, came the provisions. De la +Vérendrye reached the Lake of the Woods in September. Fearing the +delay of the goods for trade, and dreading the danger of famine with so +many men in one place, De la Vérendrye despatched Jemmeraie to winter +with part of the forces at Lake Winnipeg, where Jean and Pierre, the +second son, had built Fort Maurepas. The worst fears were realized. +Ice had blocked the Northern rivers by the time the supplies had come +to Lake Superior. Fishing failed. The hunt was poor. During the +winter of 1736 food became scantier at the little forts of St. Pierre, +St. Charles, and Maurepas. Rations were reduced from three times to +once and twice a day. By spring De la Vérendrye was put to all the +extremities of famine-stricken traders, his men subsisting on +parchment, moccasin leather, roots, and their hunting dogs. +</P> + +<P> +He was compelled to wait at St. Charles for the delayed supplies. +While he waited came blow upon blow: Jean and Pierre arrived from Fort +Maurepas with news that Jemmeraie had died three weeks before on his +way down to aid De la Vérendrye. Wrapped in a hunter's robe, his body +was buried in the sand-bank of a little Northern stream, La Fourche des +Roseaux. Over the lonely grave the two brothers had erected a cross. +Father and sons took stock of supplies. They had not enough powder to +last another month, and already the Indians were coming in with furs +and food to be traded for ammunition. If the Crees had known the +weakness of the white men, short work might have been made of Fort St. +Charles. It never entered the minds of De la Vérendrye and his sons to +give up. They decided to rush three canoes of twenty <I>voyageurs</I> to +Michilimackinac for food and powder. Father Aulneau, the young priest, +accompanied the boatmen to attend a religious retreat at +Michilimackinac. It had been a hard year for the youthful missionary. +The ship that brought him from France had been plague-stricken. The +trip to Fort St. Charles had been arduous and swift, through stifling +heat; and the year passed in the North was one of famine. +</P> + +<P> +Accompanied by the priest and led by Jean de la Vérendrye, now in his +twenty-third year, the <I>voyageurs</I> embarked hurriedly on the 8th of +June, 1736, five years to a day from the time that they left +Montreal—and a fateful day it was—in the search for the Western Sea. +The Crees had always been friendly; and when the boatmen landed on a +sheltered island twenty miles from Fort St. Charles to camp for the +night, no sentry was stationed. The lake lay calm as glass in the hot +June night, the camp-fire casting long lines across the water that +could be seen for miles. An early start was to be made in the morning +and a furious pace to be kept all the way to Lake Superior, and the +<I>voyageurs</I> were presently sound asleep on the sand. The keenest ears +could scarcely have distinguished the soft lapping of muffled paddles; +and no one heard the moccasined tread of ambushed Indians +reconnoitring. Seventeen Sioux stepped from their canoes, stole from +cover to cover, and looked out on the unsuspecting sleepers. Then the +Indians as noiselessly slipped back to their canoes to carry word of +the discovery to a band of marauders. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-212"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-212.jpg" ALT=""The soldiers marched out from Mount Royal."" BORDER="2" WIDTH="401" HEIGHT="607"> +<H4> +[Illustration: "The soldiers marched out from Mount Royal."] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Something had occurred at Fort St. Charles without M. de la Vérendrye's +knowledge. Hilarious with their new possessions of firearms, and +perhaps, also, mad with the brandy of which Father Aulneau had +complained, a few mischievous Crees had fired from the fort on +wandering Sioux of the prairie. +</P> + +<P> +"Who—fire—on—us?" demanded the outraged Sioux. +</P> + +<P> +"The French," laughed the Crees. +</P> + +<P> +The Sioux at once went back to a band of one hundred and thirty +warriors. "Tigers of the plains" the Sioux were called, and now the +tigers' blood was up. They set out to slay the first white man seen. +By chance, he was one Bourassa, coasting by himself. Taking him +captive, they had tied him to burn him, when a slave squaw rushed out, +crying: "What would you do? This Frenchman is a friend of the Sioux! +He saved my life! If you desire to be avenged, go farther on! You +will find a camp of Frenchmen, among whom is the son of the white +chief!" +</P> + +<P> +The <I>voyageur</I> was at once unbound, and scouts scattered to find the +white men. Night had passed before the scouts had carried news of Jean +de la Vérendrye's men to the marauding warriors. The ghostly gray of +dawn saw the <I>voyageurs</I> paddling swiftly through the morning mist from +island to island of the Lake of the Woods. Cleaving the mist behind, +following solely by the double foam wreaths rippling from the canoe +prows, came the silent boats of the Sioux. When sunrise lifted the +fog, the pursuers paused like stealthy cats. At sunrise Jean de la +Vérendrye landed his crews for breakfast. Camp-fires told the Indians +where to follow. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +A few days later bands of Sautaux came to the camping ground of the +French. The heads of the white men lay on a beaver skin. All had been +scalped. The missionary, Aulneau, was on his knees, as if in morning +prayers. An arrow projected from his head. His left hand was on the +earth, fallen forward, his right hand uplifted, invoking Divine aid. +Young Vérendrye lay face down, his back hacked to pieces, a spear sunk +in his waist, the headless body mockingly decorated with porcupine +quills. So died one of the bravest of the young nobility in New France. +</P> + +<P> +The Sautaux erected a cairn of stones over the bodies of the dead. All +that was known of the massacre was vague Indian gossip. The Sioux +reported that they had not intended to murder the priest, but a +crazy-brained fanatic had shot the fatal arrow and broken from +restraint, weapon in hand. Rain-storms had washed out all marks of the +fray. +</P> + +<P> +In September the bodies of the victims were carried to Fort St. +Charles, and interred in the chapel. Eight hundred Crees besought M. +de la Vérendrye to let them avenge the murder; but the veteran of +Malplaquet exhorted them not to war. Meanwhile, Fort St. Charles +awaited the coming of supplies from Lake Superior. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +IV +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1736-1740 +</H3> + +<P> +A week passed, and on the 17th of June the canoe loads of ammunition +and supplies for which the murdered <I>voyageurs</I> had been sent arrived +at Fort St. Charles. In June the Indian hunters came in with the +winter's hunt; and on the 20th thirty Sautaux hurried to Fort St. +Charles, to report that they had found the mangled bodies of the +massacred Frenchmen on an island seven leagues from the fort. Again La +Vérendrye had to choose whether to abandon his cherished dreams, or +follow them at the risk of ruin and death. As before, when his men had +mutinied, he determined to advance. +</P> + +<P> +Jean, the eldest son, was dead. Pierre and François were with their +father. Louis, the youngest, now seventeen years of age, had come up +with the supplies. Pierre at once went to Lake Winnipeg, to prepare +Fort Maurepas for the reception of all the forces. Winter set in. +Snow lay twelve feet deep in the forests now known as the Minnesota +Borderlands. On February 8, 1737, in the face of a biting north wind, +with the thermometer at forty degrees below zero, M. de la Vérendrye +left Fort St. Charles, François carrying the French flag, with ten +soldiers, wearing snow-shoes, in line behind, and two or three hundred +Crees swathed in furs bringing up a ragged rear. The bright uniforms +of the soldiers were patches of red among the snowy everglades. +Bivouac was made on beds of pine boughs,—feet to the camp-fire, the +night frost snapping like a whiplash, the stars flashing with a steely +clearness known only in northern climes. The march was at a swift +pace, for three weeks by canoe is short enough time to traverse the +Minnesota and Manitoba Borderlands northwest to Lake Winnipeg; and in +seventeen days M. de la Vérendrye was at Fort Maurepas. +</P> + +<P> +Fort Maurepas (in the region of the modern Alexander) lay on a tongue +of sand extending into the lake a few miles beyond the entrance of Red +River. Tamarack and poplar fringe the shore; and in windy weather the +lake is lashed into a roughness that resembles the flux of ocean tides. +I remember once going on a steamer towards the site of Maurepas. The +ship drew lightest of draft. While we were anchored the breeze fell, +and the ship was stranded as if by ebb tide for twenty-four hours. The +action of the wind explained the Indian tales of an ocean tide, which +had misled La Vérendrye into expecting to find the Western Sea at this +point. He found a magnificent body of fresh water, but not the ocean. +The fort was the usual pioneer fur post—a barracks of unbarked logs, +chinked up with frozen clay and moss, roofed with branches and snow, +occupying the centre of a courtyard, palisaded by slabs of pine logs. +M. de la Vérendrye was now in the true realm of the explorer—in +territory where no other white man had trod. With a shout his motley +forces emerged from the snowy tamaracks, and with a shout from Pierre +de la Vérendrye and his tawny followers the explorer was welcomed +through the gateway of little Fort Maurepas. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-217"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-217.jpg" ALT="Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca River." BORDER="2" WIDTH="403" HEIGHT="303"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca River.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Pierre de la Vérendrye had heard of a region to the south much +frequented by the Assiniboine Indians, who had conducted Radisson to +the Sea of the North fifty years before—the Forks where the +Assiniboine River joins the Red, and the city of Winnipeg stands +to-day. It was reported that game was plentiful here. Two hundred +tepees of Assiniboines were awaiting the explorer. His forces were +worn with their marching, but in a few weeks the glaze of ice above the +fathomless drifts of snow would be too rotten for travel, and not until +June would the riverways be clear for canoes. But such a scant supply +of goods had his partners sent up that poor De la Vérendrye had nothing +to trade with the waiting Assiniboines. Sending his sons forward to +reconnoitre the Forks of the Assiniboine,—the modern Winnipeg,—he set +out for Montreal as soon as navigation opened, taking with him fourteen +great canoes of precious furs. +</P> + +<P> +The fourteen canoe loads proved his salvation. As long as there were +furs and prospects of furs, his partners would back the enterprise of +finding the Western Sea. The winter of 1738 was spent as the guest of +the governor at Château St. Louis. The partners were satisfied, and +plucked up hope of their venture. They would advance provisions in +proportion to earnings. By September he was back at Fort Maurepas on +Lake Winnipeg, pushing for the undiscovered bourne of the Western Sea. +Leaving orders for trade with the chief clerk at Maurepas, De la +Vérendrye picked out his most intrepid men; and in September of 1738, +for the first time in history, white men glided up the ochre-colored, +muddy current of the Red for the Forks of the Assiniboine. Ten Cree +wigwams and two war chiefs awaited De la Vérendrye on the low flats of +what are now known as South Winnipeg. Not the fabled Western Sea, but +an illimitable ocean of rolling prairie—the long russet grass rising +and falling to the wind like waves to the run of invisible +feet—stretched out before the eager eyes of the explorer. Northward +lay the autumn-tinged brushwood of Red River. South, shimmering in the +purple mists of Indian summer, was Red River Valley. Westward the sun +hung like a red shield, close to the horizon, over vast reaches of +prairie billowing to the sky-line in the tide of a boundless ocean. +Such was the discovery of the Canadian Northwest. +</P> + +<P> +Doubtless the weary gaze of the tired <I>voyageurs</I> turned longingly +westward. Where was the Western Sea? Did it lie just beyond the +horizon where skyline and prairie met, or did the trail of their quest +run on—on—on—endlessly? The Assiniboine flows into the Red, the Red +into Lake Winnipeg, the Lake into Hudson Bay. Plainly, Assiniboine +Valley was not the way to the Western Sea. But what lay just beyond +this Assiniboine Valley? An old Cree chief warned the boatmen that the +Assiniboine River was very low and would wreck the canoes; but he also +told vague yarns of "great waters beyond the mountains of the setting +sun," where white men dwelt, and the waves came in a tide, and the +waters were salt. The Western Sea where the Spaniards dwelt had long +been known. It was a Western Sea to the north, that would connect +Louisiana and Canada, that De la Vérendrye sought. The Indian fables, +without doubt, referred to a sea beyond the Assiniboine River, and +thither would De la Vérendrye go at any cost. Some sort of barracks or +shelter was knocked up on the south side of the Assiniboine opposite +the flats. It was subsequently known as Fort Rouge, after the color of +the adjacent river, and was the foundation of Winnipeg. Leaving men to +trade at Fort Rouge, De la Vérendrye set out on September 26, 1738, for +the height of land that must lie beyond the sources of the Assiniboine. +De la Vérendrye was now like a man hounded by his own Frankenstein. A +thousand leagues—every one marked by disaster and failure and sinking +hopes—lay behind him. A thousand leagues of wilderness lay before +him. He had only a handful of men. The Assiniboine Indians were of +dubious friendliness. The white men were scarce of food. In a few +weeks they would be exposed to the terrible rigors of Northern winter. +Yet they set their faces toward the west, types of the pioneers who +have carved empire out of wilderness. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-220"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-220.jpg" ALT="The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains." BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="404"> +<H4> +[Illustration: The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The Assiniboine was winding and low, with many sand bars. On the +wooded banks deer and buffalo grazed in such countless multitudes that +the boatmen took them for great herds of cattle. Flocks of wild geese +darkened the sky overhead. As the boats wound up the shallows of the +river, ducks rose in myriad flocks. Prairie wolves skulked away from +the river bank, and the sand-hill cranes were so unused to human +presence that they scarcely rose as the voyageurs poled past. While +the boatmen poled, the soldiers marched in military order across +country, so avoiding the bends of the river. Daily, Crees and +Assiniboines of the plains joined the white men. A week after leaving +the Forks or Fort Rouge, De la Vérendrye came to the Portage of the +Prairie, leading north to Lake Manitoba and from the lake to Hudson +Bay. Clearly, northward was not the way to the Western Sea; but the +Assiniboines told of a people to the southwest—the Mandans—who knew a +people who lived on the Western Sea. As soon as his baggage came up, +De la Vérendrye ordered the construction of a fort—called De la +Reine—on the banks of the Assiniboine. This was to be the forwarding +post for the Western Sea. To the Mandans living on the Missouri, who +knew a people living on salt water, De la Vérendrye now directed his +course. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-223"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-223.jpg" ALT="Hungry Hall, 1870; near the site of the Vérendrye Fort in Rainy River Region." BORDER="2" WIDTH="399" HEIGHT="298"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Hungry Hall, 1870; near the site of the Vérendrye Fort +in Rainy River Region.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +On the morning of October 18 drums beat to arms. Additional men had +come up from the other forts. Fifty-two soldiers and <I>voyageurs</I> now +stood in line. Arms were inspected. To each man were given powder, +balls, axe, and kettle. Pierre and François de la Vérendrye hoisted +the French flag. For the first time a bugle call sounded over the +prairie. At the word, out stepped the little band of white men, +marking time for the Western Sea. The course lay west-southwest, up +the Souris River, through wooded ravines now stripped of foliage, past +alkali sloughs ice-edged by frost, over rolling cliffs russet and bare, +where gopher and badger and owl and roving buffalo were the only signs +of life. On the 21st of October two hundred Assiniboine warriors +joined the marching white men. In the sheltered ravines buffalo grazed +by the hundreds of thousands, and the march was delayed by frequent +buffalo hunts to gather pemmican—pounded marrow and fat of the +buffalo—which was much esteemed by the Mandans. Within a month so +many Assiniboines had joined the French that the company numbered more +than six hundred warriors, who were ample protection against the Sioux; +and the Sioux were the deadly terror of all tribes of the plains. But +M. de la Vérendrye was expected to present ammunition to his +Assiniboine friends. +</P> + +<P> +Four outrunners went speeding to the Missouri to notify the Mandans of +the advancing warriors. The <I>coureurs</I> carried presents of pemmican. +To prevent surprise, the Assiniboines marched under the sheltered +slopes of the hills and observed military order. In front rode the +warriors, dressed in garnished buckskin and armed with spears and +arrows. Behind, on foot, came the old and the lame. To the rear was +another guard of warriors. Lagging in ragged lines far back came a +ragamuffin brigade, the women, children, and dogs—squaws astride +cayuses lean as barrel hoops, children in moss bags on their mothers' +backs, and horses and dogs alike harnessed with the <I>travaille</I>—two +sticks tied into a triangle, with the shafts fastened to a cinch on +horse or dog. The joined end of the shafts dragged on the ground, and +between them hung the baggage, surmounted by papoose, or pet owl, or +the half-tamed pup of a prairie-wolf, or even a wild-eyed young squaw +with hair flying to the wind. At night camp was made in a circle +formed of the hobbled horses. Outside, the dogs scoured in pursuit of +coyotes. The women and children took refuge in the centre, and the +warriors slept near their picketed horses. By the middle of November +the motley cavalcade had crossed the height of land between the +Assiniboine River and the Missouri, and was heading for the Mandan +villages. Mandan <I>coureurs</I> came out to welcome the visitors, +pompously presenting De la Vérendrye with corn in the ear and tobacco. +At this stage, the explorer discovered that his bag of presents for his +hosts had been stolen by the Assiniboines; but he presented the Mandans +with what ammunition he could spare, and gave them plenty of pemmican +which his hunters had cured. The two tribes drove a brisk trade in +furs, which the northern Indians offered, and painted plumes, which the +Mandans displayed to the envy of Assiniboine warriors. +</P> + +<P> +On the 3d of December, De la Vérendrye's sons stepped before the ragged +host of six hundred savages with the French flag hoisted. The explorer +himself was lifted to the shoulders of the Mandan <I>coureurs</I>. A gun +was fired and the strange procession set out for the Mandan villages. +In this fashion white men first took possession of the Upper Missouri. +Some miles from the lodges a band of old chiefs met De la Vérendrye and +gravely handed him a grand calumet of pipestone ornamented with eagle +feathers. This typified peace. De la Vérendrye ordered his fifty +French followers to draw up in line. The sons placed the French flag +four paces to the fore. The Assiniboine warriors took possession in +stately Indian silence to the right and left of the whites. At a +signal three thundering volleys of musketry were fired. The Mandans +fell back, prostrated with fear and wonder. The command "forward" was +given, and the Mandan village was entered in state at four in the +afternoon of December 3, 1738. +</P> + +<P> +The village was in much the same condition as a hundred years later +when visited by Prince Maximilian and by the artist Catlin. It +consisted of circular huts, with thatched roofs, on which perched the +gaping women and children. Around the village of huts ran a moat or +ditch, which was guarded in time of war with the Sioux. Flags flew +from the centre poles of each hut; but the flags were the scalps of +enemies slain. In the centre of the village was a larger hut. This +was the "medicine lodge," or council hall, of the chiefs, used only for +ceremonies of religion and war and treaties of peace. Thither De la +Vérendrye was conducted. Here the Mandan chiefs sat on buffalo robes +in a circle round the fire, smoking the calumet, which was handed to +the white man. The explorer then told the Indians of his search for +the Western Sea. Of a Western Sea they could tell him nothing +definite. They knew a people far west who grew corn and tobacco and +who lived on the shores of water that was bitter for drinking. The +people were white. They dressed in armor and lived in houses of stone. +Their country was full of mountains. More of the Western Sea, De la +Vérendrye could not learn. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile, six hundred Assiniboine visitors were a tax on the +hospitality of the Mandans, who at once spread a rumor of a Sioux raid. +This gave speed to the Assiniboines' departure. Among the Assiniboines +who ran off in precipitate fright was De la Vérendrye's interpreter. +It was useless to wait longer. The French were short of provisions, +and the Missouri Indians could not be expected to support fifty white +men. Though it was the bitter cold of midwinter, De la Vérendrye +departed for Fort de la Reine. Two Frenchmen were left to learn the +Missouri dialects. A French flag in a leaden box with the arms of +France inscribed was presented to the Mandan chief; and De la Vérendrye +marched from the village on the 8th of December. Scarcely had he left, +when he fell terribly ill; but for the pathfinder of the wilderness +there is neither halt nor retreat. M. de la Vérendrye's ragged army +tramped wearily on, half blinded by snow glare and buffeted by prairie +blizzards, huddling in snowdrifts from the wind at night and uncertain +of their compass over the white wastes by day. There is nothing so +deadly silent and utterly destitute of life as the prairie in +midwinter. Moose and buffalo had sought the shelter of wooded ravines. +Here a fox track ran over the snow. There a coyote skulked from cover, +to lope away the next instant for brushwood or hollow, and +snow-buntings or whiskey-jacks might have followed the marchers for +pickings of waste; but east, west, north, and south was nothing but the +wide, white wastes of drifted snow. On Christmas Eve of 1738 low +curling smoke above the prairie told the wanderers that they were +nearing the Indian camps of the Assiniboines; and by nightfall of +February 10, 1739, they were under the shelter of Fort de la Reine. "I +have never been so wretched from illness and fatigue in all my life as +on that journey," reported De la Vérendrye. As usual, provisions were +scarce at the fort. Fifty people had to be fed. Buffalo and deer meat +saved the French from starvation till spring. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-228"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-228.jpg" ALT="A Monarch of the Plains." BORDER="2" WIDTH="194" HEIGHT="280"> +<H4> +[Illustration: A Monarch of the Plains.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +All that De la Vérendrye had accomplished on this trip was to learn +that salt water existed west-southwest. Anxious to know more of the +Northwest, he sent his sons to the banks of a great northern river. +This was the Saskatchewan. In their search of the Northwest, they +constructed two more trading posts, Fort Dauphin near Lake Manitoba, +and Bourbon on the Saskatchewan. Winter quarters were built at the +forks of the river, which afterwards became the site of Fort Poskoyac. +This spring not a canoe load of food came up from Montreal. Papers had +been served for the seizure of all De la Vérendrye's forts, goods, +property, and chattels to meet the claims of his creditors. Desperate, +but not deterred from his quest, De la Vérendrye set out to contest the +lawsuits in Montreal. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +V +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1740-1750 +</H3> + +<P> +Which way to turn now for the Western Sea that eluded their quest like +a will-o'-the-wisp was the question confronting Pierre, François, and +Louis de la Vérendrye during the explorer's absence in Montreal. They +had followed the great Saskatchewan westward to its forks. No river +was found in this region flowing in the direction of the Western Sea. +They had been in the country of the Missouri; but neither did any river +there flow to a Western Sea. Yet the Mandans told of salt water far to +the west. Thither they would turn the baffling search. +</P> + +<P> +The two men left among the Mandans to learn the language had returned +to the Assiniboine River with more news of tribes from "the setting +sun" who dwelt on salt water. Pierre de la Vérendrye went down to the +Missouri with the two interpreters; but the Mandans refused to supply +guides that year, and the young Frenchman came back to winter on the +Assiniboine. Here he made every preparation for another attempt to +find the Western Sea by way of the Missouri. On April 29, 1742, the +two brothers, Pierre and François, left the Assiniboine with the two +interpreters. Their course led along the trail that for two hundred +years was to be a famous highway between the Missouri and Hudson Bay. +Heading southwest, they followed the Souris River to the watershed of +the Missouri, and in three weeks were once more the guests of the smoky +Mandan lodges. Round the inside walls of each circular hut ran berth +beds of buffalo skin with trophies of the chase,—hide-shields and +weapons of war, fastened to the posts that separated berth from berth. +A common fire, with a family meat pot hanging above, occupied the +centre of the lodge. In one of these lodges the two brothers and their +men were quartered. The summer passed feasting with the Mandans and +smoking the calumet of peace; but all was in vain. The Missouri +Indians were arrant cowards in the matter of war. The terror of their +existence was the Sioux. The Mandans would not venture through Sioux +territory to accompany the brothers in the search for the Western Sea. +At last two guides were obtained, who promised to conduct the French to +a neighboring tribe that might know of the Western Sea. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-231"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-231.jpg" ALT="Fur Traders' Boats towed down the Saskatchewan in the Summer of 1900." BORDER="2" WIDTH="391" HEIGHT="262"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fur Traders' Boats towed down the Saskatchewan in the +Summer of 1900.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The party set out on horseback, travelling swiftly southwest and along +the valley of the Little Missouri toward the Black Hills. Here their +course turned sharply west toward the Powder River country, past the +southern bounds of the Yellowstone. For three weeks they saw no sign +of human existence. Deer and antelope bounded over the parched alkali +uplands. Prairie dogs perched on top of their earth mounds, to watch +the lonely riders pass; and all night the far howl of grayish forms on +the offing of the starlit prairie told of prowling coyotes. On the +11th of August the brothers camped on the Powder Hills. Mounting to +the crest of a cliff, they scanned far and wide for signs of the +Indians whom the Mandans knew. The valleys were desolate. Kindling a +signal-fire to attract any tribes that might be roaming, they built a +hut and waited. A month passed. There was no answering signal. One +of the Mandan guides took himself off in fright. On the fifth week a +thin line of smoke rose against the distant sky. The remaining Mandans +went to reconnoitre and found a camp of Beaux Hommes, or Crows, who +received the French well. Obtaining fresh guides from the Crows and +dismissing the Mandans, the brothers again headed westward. The Crows +guided them to the Horse Indians, who in turn took the French to their +next western neighbors, the Bows. The Bows were preparing to war on +the Snakes, a mountain tribe to the west. Tepees dotted the valley. +Women were pounding the buffalo meat into pemmican for the raiders. +The young braves spent the night with war-song and war-dance, to work +themselves into a frenzy of bravado. The Bows were to march west; so +the French joined the warriors, gradually turning northwest toward what +is now Helena. +</P> + +<P> +It was winter. The hills were powdered with snow that obliterated all +traces of the fleeing Snakes. The way became more mountainous and +dangerous. Iced sloughs gave place to swift torrents and cataracts. +On New Year's day, 1743, there rose through the gray haze to the fore +the ragged sky-line of the Bighorn Mountains. Women and children were +now left in a sheltered valley, the warriors advancing unimpeded. +François de la Vérendrye remained at the camp to guard the baggage. +Pierre went on with the raiders. In two weeks they were at the foot of +the main range of the northern Rockies. Against the sky the snowy +heights rose—an impassable barrier between the plains and the Western +Sea. What lay beyond—the Beyond that had been luring them on and on, +from river to river and land to land, for more than ten years? Surely +on the other side of those lofty summits one might look down on the +long-sought Western Sea. Never suspecting that another thousand miles +of wilderness and mountain fastness lay between him and his quest, +young De la Vérendrye wanted to cross the Great Divide. Destiny +decreed otherwise. The raid of the Bows against the Snakes ended in a +fiasco. No Snakes were to be found at their usual winter hunt. Had +they decamped to massacre the Bow women and children left in the valley +to the rear? The Bows fled back to their wives in a panic; so De la +Vérendrye could not climb the mountains that barred the way to the sea. +The retreat was made in the teeth of a howling mountain blizzard, and +the warriors reached the rendezvous more dead than alive. No Snake +Indians were seen at all. The Bows marched homeward along the valley +of the Upper Missouri through the country of the Sioux, with whom they +were allied. On the banks of the river the brothers buried a leaden +plate with the royal arms of France imprinted. At the end of July, +1743, they were once more back on the Assiniboine River. For thirteen +years they had followed a hopeless quest. Instead of a Western Sea, +they had found a sea of prairie, a sea of mountains, and two great +rivers, the Saskatchewan and the Missouri. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +VI +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1743-1750 +</H3> + +<P> +But the explorer, who had done so much to extend French domain in the +West, was a ruined man. To the accusations of his creditors were added +the jealous calumnies of fur traders eager to exploit the new country. +The eldest son, with tireless energy, had gone up the Saskatchewan to +Fort Poskoyac when he was recalled to take a position in the army at +Montreal. In 1746 De la Vérendrye himself was summoned to Quebec and +his command given to M. de Noyelles. The game being played by jealous +rivals was plain. De la Vérendrye was to be kept out of the West while +tools of the Quebec traders spied out the fur trade of the Assiniboine +and the Missouri. Immediately on receiving freedom from military duty, +young Chevalier de la Vérendrye set out for Manitoba. On the way he +met his father's successor, M. de Noyelles, coming home crestfallen. +The supplanter had failed to control the Indians. In one year half the +forts of the chain leading to the Western Sea had been destroyed. +These Chevalier de la Vérendrye restored as he passed westward. +</P> + +<P> +Governor Beauharnois had always refused to believe the charges of +private peculation against M. de la Vérendrye. Governor de la +Galissonnière was equally favorable to the explorer; and De la +Vérendrye was decorated with the Order of the Cross of St. Louis, and +given permission to continue his explorations. The winter of 1749 was +passed preparing supplies for the posts of the West; but a life of +hardship and disappointment had undermined the constitution of the +dauntless pathfinder. On the 6th of December, while busy with plans +for his hazardous and thankless quest, he died suddenly at Montreal. +</P> + +<P> +Rival fur traders scrambled for the spoils of the Manitoba and Missouri +territory like dogs for a bone. De la Jonquière had become governor. +Allied with him was the infamous Bigot, the intendant, and those two +saw in the Western fur trade an opportunity to enrich themselves. The +rights of De la Vérendrye's sons to succeed their father were entirely +disregarded. Legardeur de Saint-Pierre was appointed commander of the +Western Sea. The very goods forwarded by De la Vérendrye were +confiscated. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-236"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-236.jpg" ALT=""Tepees dotted the valley."" BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="236"> +<H4> +[Illustration: "Tepees dotted the valley."] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +But Saint-Pierre had enough trouble from his appointment. His +lieutenant, M. de Niverville, almost lost his life among hostiles on +the way down the Saskatchewan after building Fort Lajonquière at the +foothills of the Rockies, where Calgary now stands. Saint-Pierre had +headquarters in Manitoba on the Assiniboine, and one afternoon in +midwinter, when his men were out hunting, he saw his fort suddenly fill +with armed Assiniboines bent on massacre. They jostled him aside, +broke into the armory, and helped themselves to weapons. Saint-Pierre +had only one recourse. Seizing a firebrand, he tore the cover off a +keg of powder and threatened to blow the Indians to perdition. The +marauders dashed from the fort, and Saint-Pierre shot the bolts of gate +and sally-port. When the white hunters returned, they quickly gathered +their possessions together and abandoned Fort de la Reine. Four days +later the fort lay in ashes. So ended the dream of enthusiasts to find +a way overland to the Western Sea. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] The authorities for La Vérendrye's life are, of course, his own +reports as found in the State Papers of the Canadian Archives, Pierre +Margry's compilation of these reports, and the Rev. Father Jones' +collection of the <I>Aulneau Letters</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] The <I>Pays d'en Haut</I> or "Up-Country" was the vague name given by +the fur traders to the region between the Missouri and the North Pole. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] Throughout this volume the word "Sioux" is used as applying to the +entire confederacy, and not to the Minnesota Sioux only. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap09"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART III +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1769-1782 +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS +SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC CIRCLE AND +ATHABASCA REGION +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER IX +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1769-1782 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SAMUEL HEARNE +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and the +Northwest Passage—Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton—The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle—Discovery of the Athabasca Country—Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French—Frightful Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +For a hundred years after receiving its charter to exploit the furs of +the North, the Hudson's Bay Company slumbered on the edge of a frozen +sea. +</P> + +<P> +Its fur posts were scattered round the desolate shores of the Northern +bay like beads on a string; but the languid Company never attempted to +penetrate the unknown lands beyond the coast. It was unnecessary. The +Indians came to the Company. The company did not need to go to the +Indians. Just as surely as spring cleared the rivers of ice and set +the unlocked torrents rushing to the sea, there floated down-stream +Indian dugout and birch canoe, loaded with wealth of peltries for the +fur posts of the English Company. So the English sat snugly secure +inside their stockades, lords of the wilderness, and drove a thriving +trade with folded hands. For a penny knife, they bought a beaver skin; +and the skin sold in Europe for two or three shillings. The trade of +the old Company was not brisk; but it paid. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-242"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-242.jpg" ALT="An Eskimo Belle. Note the apron of ermine and sable]" BORDER="2" WIDTH="153" HEIGHT="387"> +<H4> +[Illustration: An Eskimo Belle. Note the apron of ermine and sable]. +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It was the prod of keen French traders that stirred the slumbering +giant. In his search for the Western Sea, De la Vérendrye had pushed +west by way of the Great Lakes to the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains +and the Saskatchewan. Henceforth, not so many furs came down-stream to +the English Company on the bay. De la Vérendrye had been followed by +hosts of free-lances—<I>coureurs</I> and <I>voyageurs</I>—who spread through +the wilderness from the Missouri to the Athabasca, intercepting the +fleets of furs that formerly went to Hudson Bay. The English Company +rubbed its eyes; and rivals at home began to ask what had been done in +return for the charter. France had never ceased seeking the mythical +Western Sea that was supposed to lie just beyond the Mississippi; and +when French buccaneers destroyed the English Company's forts on the +bay, the English ambassador at Paris exacted such an enormous bill of +damages that the Hudson Bay traders were enabled to build a stronger +fortress up at Prince of Wales on the mouth of Churchill River than the +French themselves possessed at Quebec on the St. Lawrence. What—asked +the rivals of the Company in London—had been done in return for such +national protection? France had discovered and explored a whole new +world north of the Missouri. What had the English done? Where did the +Western Sea of which Spain had possession in the South lie towards the +North? What lay between the Hudson Bay and that Western Sea? Was +there a Northwest passage by water through this region to Asia? If +not, was there an undiscovered world in the North, like Louisiana in +the South? There was talk of revoking the charter. Then the Company +awakened from its long sleep with a mighty stir. +</P> + +<P> +The annual boats that came out to Hudson Bay in the summer of 1769 +anchored on the offing, six miles from the gray walls of Fort Prince of +Wales, and roared out a salute of cannon becoming the importance of +ships that bore almost revolutionary commissions. The fort cannon on +the walls of Churchill River thundered their answer. A pinnace came +scudding over the waves from the ships. A gig boat launched out from +the fort to welcome the messengers. Where the two met halfway, packets +of letters were handed to Moses Norton, governor at Fort Prince of +Wales, commanding him to despatch his most intrepid explorers for the +discovery of unknown rivers, strange lands, rumored copper mines, and +the mythical Northwest Passage that was supposed to lead directly to +China. +</P> + +<P> +The fort lay on a spit of sand running out into the bay at the mouth of +Churchill River. It was three hundred yards long by three hundred +yards wide, with four bastions, in three of which were stores and wells +of water. The fourth bastion contained the powder-magazine. The walls +were thirty feet wide at the bottom and twenty feet wide at the top, of +hammer-dressed stone, mounted with forty great cannon. A commodious +stone house, furnished with all the luxuries of the chase, stood in the +centre of the courtyard. This was the residence of the governor. +Offices, warehouses, barracks, and hunters' lodges were banked round +the inner walls of the fort. The garrison consisted of thirty-nine +common soldiers and a few officers. In addition, there hung about the +fort the usual habitués of a Northern fur post,—young clerks from +England, who had come out for a year's experience in the wilds; +underpaid artisans, striving to mend their fortunes by illicit trade; +hunters and <I>coureurs</I> and <I>voyageurs</I>, living like Indians but with a +strain of white blood that forever distinguished them from their +comrades; stately Indian sachems, stalking about the fort with whiffs +of contempt from their long calumets for all this white-man luxury; and +a ragamuffin brigade,—squaws, youngsters, and beggars,—who subsisted +by picking up food from the waste heap of the fort. +</P> + +<P> +The commission to despatch explorers to the inland country proved the +sensation of a century at the fort. Round the long mess-room table +gathered officers and traders, intent on the birch-bark maps drawn by +old Indian chiefs of an unknown interior, where a "Far-Off-Metal River" +flowed down to the Northwest Passage. Huge log fires blazed on the +stone hearths at each end of the mess room. Smoky lanterns and pine +fagots, dipped in tallow and stuck in iron clamps, shed a fitful light +from rafters that girded ceiling and walls. On the floor of flagstones +lay enormous skins of the chase—polar bear, Arctic wolf, and grizzly. +Heads of musk-ox, caribou, and deer decorated the great timber girders. +Draped across the walls were Company flags—an English ensign with the +letters "H. B. C." painted in white on a red background, or in red on a +white background. +</P> + +<P> +At the head of the table sat one of the most remarkable scoundrels +known in the annals of the Company, Moses Norton, governor of Fort +Prince of Wales, a full-blooded Indian, who had been sent to England +for nine years to be educated and had returned to the fort to resume +all the vices and none of the virtues of white man and red. +Clean-skinned, copper-colored, lithe and wiry as a tiger cat, with the +long, lank, oily black hair of his race, Norton bore himself with all +the airs of a European princelet and dressed himself in the beaded +buckskins of a savage. Before him the Indians cringed as before one of +their demon gods, and on the same principle. Bad gods could do the +Indians harm. Good gods wouldn't. Therefore, the Indians propitiated +the bad gods; and of all Indian demons Norton was the worst. The black +arts of mediaeval poisoning were known to him, and he never scrupled to +use them against an enemy. The Indians thought him possessed of the +power of the evil eye; but his power was that of arsenic or laudanum +dropped in the food of an unsuspecting enemy. Two of his wives, with +all of whom he was inordinately jealous, had died of poison. Against +white men who might offend him he used more open means,—the triangle, +the whipping post, the branding iron. Needless to say that a man who +wielded such power swelled the Company's profits and stood high in +favor with the directors. At his right hand lay an enormous bunch of +keys. These he carried with him by day and kept under his pillow by +night. They were the keys to the apartments of his many wives, for +like all Indians Norton believed in a plurality of wives, and the life +of no Indian was safe who refused to contribute a daughter to the +harem. The two master passions of the governor were jealousy and +tyranny; and while he lived like a Turkish despot himself, he ruled his +fort with a rod of iron and left the brand of his wrath on the person +of soldier or officer who offered indignity to the Indian race. It was +a common thing for Norton to poison an Indian who refused to permit a +daughter to join the collection of wives; then to flog the back off a +soldier who casually spoke to one of the wives in the courtyard; and in +the evening spend the entire supper hour preaching sermons on virtue to +his men. By a curious freak, Marie, his daughter, now a child of nine, +inherited from her father the gentle qualities of the English life in +which he had passed his youth. She shunned the native women and was +often to be seen hanging on her father's arm, as officers and governor +smoked their pipes over the mess-room table. +</P> + +<P> +Near Norton sat another famous Indian, Matonabbee, the son of a slave +woman at the fort, who had grown up to become a great ambassador to the +native tribes for the English traders. Measuring more than six feet, +straight as a lance, supple as a wrestler, thin, wiry, alert, restless +with the instinct of the wild creatures, Matonabbee was now in the +prime of his manhood, chief of the Chipewyans at the fort, and master +of life and death to all in his tribe. It was Matonabbee whom the +English traders sent up the Saskatchewan to invite the tribes of the +Athabasca down to the bay. The Athabascans listened to the message of +peace with a treacherous smile. At midnight assassins stole to his +tent, overpowered his slave, and dragged the captive out. Leaping to +his feet, Matonabbee shouted defiance, hurled his assailants aside like +so many straws, pursued the raiders to their tents, single-handed +released his slave, and marched out unscathed. That was the way +Matonabbee had won the Athabascans for the Hudson's Bay Company. +</P> + +<P> +Officers of the garrison, bluff sea-captains, spinning yarns of iceberg +and floe, soldiers and traders, made up the rest of the company. Among +the white men was one eager face,—that of Samuel Hearne, who was to +explore the interior and now scanned the birch-bark drawings to learn +the way to the "Far-off-Metal River." +</P> + +<A NAME="img-248"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-248.jpg" ALT="Samuel Hearne." BORDER="2" WIDTH="379" HEIGHT="481"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Samuel Hearne.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +By November 6 all was in readiness for the departure of the explorer. +Two Indian guides, who knew the way to the North, were assigned to +Hearne; two European servants went with him to look after the +provisions; and two Indian hunters joined the company. In the gray +mist of Northern dawn, with the stars still pricking through the frosty +air, seven salutes of cannon awakened the echoes of the frozen sea. +The gates of the fort flung open, creaking with the frost rust, and +Hearne came out, followed by his little company, the dog bells of the +long toboggan sleighs setting up a merry jingling as the huskies broke +from a trot to a gallop over the snow-fields for the North. Heading +west-northwest, the band travelled swiftly with all the enthusiasm of +untested courage. North winds cut their faces like whip-lashes. The +first night out there was not enough snow to make a wind-break of the +drifts; so the sleighs were piled on edge to windward, dogs and men +lying heterogeneously in their shelter. When morning came, one of the +Indian guides had deserted. The way became barer. Frozen swamps +across which the storm wind swept with hurricane force were succeeded +by high, rocky barrens devoid of game, unsheltered, with barely enough +stunted shrubbery for the whittling of chips that cooked the morning +and night meals. In a month the travellers had not accomplished ten +miles a day. Where deer were found the Indians halted to gorge +themselves with feasts. Where game was scarce they lay in camp, +depending on the white hunters. Within three weeks rations had +dwindled to one partridge a day for the entire company. The Indians +seemed to think that Hearne's white servants had secret store of food +on the sleighs. The savages refused to hunt. Then Hearne suspected +some ulterior design. It was to drive him back to the fort by famine. +Henceforth, he noticed on the march that the Indians always preceded +the whites and secured any game before his men could fire a shot. One +night toward the end of November the savages plundered the sleighs. +Hearne awakened in amazement to see the company marching off, laden +with guns, ammunition, and hatchets. He called. Their answer was +laughter that set the woods ringing. Hearne was now two hundred miles +from the fort, without either ammunition or food. There was nothing to +do but turn back. The weather was fair. By snaring partridges, the +white men obtained enough game to sustain them till they reached the +fort on the 11th of December. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-250"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-250.jpg" ALT="Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle." BORDER="2" WIDTH="396" HEIGHT="313"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The question now was whether to wait till spring or set out in the +teeth of midwinter. If Hearne left the fort in spring, he could not +possibly reach the Arctic Circle till the following winter; and with +the North buried under drifts of snow, he could not learn where lay the +Northwest Passage. If he left the fort in winter in order to reach the +Arctic in summer, he must expose his guides to the risks of cold and +starvation. The Indians told of high, rocky barrens, across which no +canoes could be carried. They advised snow-shoe travel. Obtaining +three Chipewyans and two Crees as guides, and taking no white servants, +Hearne once more set out, on February 23, 1770, for the "Far-Away-Metal +River." This time there was no cannonading. The guns were buried +under snow-drifts twenty feet deep, and the snow-shoes of the +travellers glided over the fort walls to the echoing cheers of soldiers +and governor standing on the ramparts. The company travelled light, +depending on chance game for food. All wood that could be used for +fire lay hidden deep under snow. At wide intervals over the white +wastes mushroom cones of snow told where a stunted tree projected the +antlered branches of topmost bough through the depths of drift; but for +the most part camp was made by digging through the shallowest snow with +snow-shoes to the bottom of moss, which served the double purpose of +fuel for the night kettle and bed for travellers. In the hollow a +wigwam was erected, with the door to the south, away from the north +wind. Snared rabbits and partridges supplied the food. The way lay as +before—west-northwest—along a chain of frozen lakes and rivers +connecting Hudson Bay with the Arctic Ocean. By April the marchers +were on the margin of a desolate wilderness—the Indian region of +"Little Sticks,"—known to white men as the Barren Lands, where dwarf +trees project above the billowing wastes of snow like dismantled masts +on the far offing of a lonely sea. Game became scarcer. Neither the +round footprint of the hare nor the frost tracery of the northern +grouse marked the snowy reaches of unbroken white. Caribou had +retreated to the sheltered woods of the interior; and a cleverer hunter +than man had scoured the wide wastes of game. Only the wolf pack +roamed the Barren Lands. It was unsafe to go on without food. Hearne +kept in camp till the coming of the goose month—April—when birds of +passage wended their way north. For three days rations consisted of +snow water and pipes of tobacco. The Indians endured the privations +with stoical indifference, daily marching out on a bootless quest for +game. On the third night Hearne was alone in his tent. Twilight +deepened to night, night to morning. Still no hunters returned. Had +he been deserted? Not a sound broke the waste silence but the baying +of the wolf pack. Weak from hunger, Hearne fell asleep. Before +daylight he was awakened by a shout; and his Indians shambled over the +drifts laden with haunches of half a dozen deer. That relieved want +till the coming of the geese. In May Hearne struck across the Barren +Lands. By June the rotting snow clogged the snow-shoes. Dog trains +drew heavy, and food was again scarce. For a week the travellers found +nothing to eat but cranberries. Half the company was ill from hunger +when a mangy old musk-ox, shedding his fur and lean as barrel hoops, +came scrambling over the rocks, sure of foot as a mountain goat. A +single shot brought him down. In spite of the musky odor of which the +coarse flesh reeked, every morsel of the ox was instantly devoured. +Sometimes during their long fasts they would encounter a solitary +Indian wandering over the rocky barren. If he had arms, gun, or arrow, +and carried skins of the chase, he was welcomed to camp, no matter how +scant the fare. Otherwise he was shunned as an outcast, never to be +touched or addressed by a human being; for only one thing could have +fed an Indian on the Barren Lands who could show no trophies of the +chase, and that was the flesh of some human creature weaker than +himself. The outcast was a cannibal, condemned by an unwritten law to +wander alone through the wastes. +</P> + +<P> +Snow had barely cleared from the Barren Lands when Hearne witnessed the +great traverse of the caribou herds, marching in countless multitudes +with a clicking of horns and hoofs from west to east for the summer. +Indians from all parts of the North had placed themselves at rivers +across the line of march to spear the caribou as they swam; and Hearne +was joined by a company of six hundred savages. Summer had dried the +moss. That gave abundance of fuel. Caribou were plentiful. That +supplied the hunters with pemmican. Hearne decided to pass the +following winter with the Indians; but he was one white man among +hundreds of savages. Nightly his ammunition was plundered. One of his +survey instruments was broken in a wind storm. Others were stolen. It +was useless to go on without instruments to take observations of the +Arctic Circle; so for a second time Hearne was compelled to turn back +to Fort Prince of Wales. Terrible storms impeded the return march. +His dog was frozen in the traces. Tent poles were used for fire-wood; +and the northern lights served as the only compass. On midday of +November 25, 1770, after eight months' absence, in which he had not +found the "Far-Off-Metal River," Hearne reached shelter inside the fort +walls. +</P> + +<P> +Beating through the gales of sleet and snow on the homeward march, +Hearne had careened into a majestic figure half shrouded by the storm. +The explorer halted before a fur-muffled form, six feet in its +moccasins, erect as a mast pole, haughty as a king; and the gauntleted +hand of the Indian chief went up to his forehead in sign of peace. It +was Matonabbee, the ambassador of the Hudson's Bay Company to the +Athabascans, now returning to Fort Prince of Wales, followed by a long +line of slave women driving their dog sleighs. The two travellers +hailed each other through the storm like ships at sea. That night they +camped together on the lee side of the dog sleighs, piled high as a +wind-break; and Matonabbee, the famous courser of the Northern wastes, +gave Hearne wise advice. Women should be taken on a long journey, the +Indian chief said; for travel must be swift through the deadly cold of +the barrens. Men must travel light of hand, trusting to chance game +for food. Women were needed to snare rabbits, catch partridges, bring +in game shot by the braves, and attend to the camping. And then in a +burst of enthusiasm, perhaps warmed by Hearne's fine tobacco, +Matonabbee, who had found the way to the Athabasca, offered to conduct +the white man to the "Far-Off-Metal River" of the Arctic Circle. The +chief was the greatest pathfinder of the Northern tribes. His offer +was the chance of a lifetime. Hearne could hardly restrain his +eagerness till he reached the fort. Leaving Matonabbee to follow with +the slave women, the explorer hurried to Fort Prince of Wales, laid the +plan before Governor Norton, and in less than two weeks from the day of +his return was ready to depart for the unknown river that was to lead +to the Northwest Passage. +</P> + +<P> +The weather was dazzlingly clear, with that burnished brightness of +polished steel known only where unbroken sunlight meets unbroken snow +glare. On the 7th of December, 1770, Hearne left the fort, led by +Matonabbee and followed by the slave Indians with the dog sleighs. One +of Matonabbee's wives lay ill; but that did not hinder the iron +pathfinder. The woman was wrapped in robes and drawn on a dog sleigh. +There was neither pause nor hesitation. If the woman recovered, good. +If she died, they would bury her under a cairn of stones as they +travelled. Matonabbee struck directly west-northwest for some <I>caches</I> +of provisions which he had left hidden on the trail. The place was +found; but the <I>caches</I> had been rifled clean of food. That did not +stop Matonabbee. Nor did he show the slightest symptoms of anger. He +simply hastened their pace the more for their hunger, recognizing the +unwritten law of the wilderness—that starving hunters who had rifled +the <I>cache</I> had a right to food wherever they found it. Day after day, +stoical as men of bronze, the marchers reeled off the long white miles +over the snowy wastes, pausing only for night sleep with evening and +morning meals. Here nibbled twigs were found; there the stamping +ground of a deer shelter; elsewhere the small, cleft foot-mark like the +ace of hearts. But the signs were all old. No deer were seen. Even +the black marble eye that betrays the white hare on the snow, and the +fluffy bird track of the feather-footed northern grouse, grew rarer; +and the slave women came in every morning empty-handed from untouched +snares. In spite of hunger and cold, Matonabbee remained good-natured, +imperturbable, hard as a man of bronze, coursing with the winged speed +of snow-shoes from morning till night without pause, going to a bed of +rock moss on a meal of snow water and rising eager as an arrow to leave +the bow-string for the next day's march. For three days before +Christmas the entire company had no food but snow. Christmas was +celebrated by starvation. Hearne could not indulge in the despair of +the civilized man's self-pity when his faithful guides went on without +complaint. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-258"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-258.jpg" ALT="Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun.--C. W. Mathers." BORDER="2" WIDTH="396" HEIGHT="548"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun.--C. W. Mathers.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +By January the company had entered the Barren Lands. The Barren Lands +were bare but for an occasional oasis of trees like an island of refuge +in a shelterless sea. In the clumps of dwarf shrubs, the Indians found +signs that meant relief from famine—tufts of hair rubbed off on tree +trunks, fallen antlers, and countless heart-shaped tracks barely +puncturing the snow but for the sharp outer edge. The caribou were on +their yearly traverse east to west for the shelter of the inland woods. +The Indians at once pitched camp. Scouts went scouring to find which +way the caribou herds were coming. Pounds of snares were constructed +of shrubs and saplings stuck up in palisades with scarecrows on the +pickets round a V-shaped enclosure. The best hunters took their +station at the angle of the V, armed with loaded muskets and long, +lank, and iron-pointed arrows. Women and children lined the palisades +to scare back high jumpers or strays of the caribou herd. Then scouts +and dogs beat up the rear of the fleeing herd, driving the caribou +straight for the pound. By a curious provision of nature, the male +caribou sheds its antlers just as he leaves the Barren Lands for the +wooded interior, where the horns would impede flight through brush, and +he only leaves the woods for the bare open when the horns are grown +enough to fight the annual battle to protect the herd from the wolf +pack ravenous with spring hunger. For one caribou caught in the pound +by Hearne's Indians, a hundred of the herd escaped; for the caribou +crossed the Barrens in tens of thousands, and Matonabbee's braves +obtained enough venison for the trip to the "Far-Off-Metal River." +</P> + +<P> +The farther north they travelled the scanter became the growth of pine +and poplar and willow. Snow still lay heavy in April; but Matonabbee +ordered a halt while there was still large enough wood to construct +dugouts to carry provisions down the river. The boats were built large +and heavy in front, light behind. This was to resist the ice jam of +Northern currents. The caribou hunt had brought other Indians to the +Barren Lands. Matonabbee was joined by two hundred warriors. Though +the tribes puffed the calumet of peace together, they drew their war +hatchets when they saw the smoke of an alien tribe's fire rise against +the northern sky. A suspicion that he hardly dared to acknowledge +flashed through Hearne's mind. Eleven thousand beaver pelts were +yearly brought down to the fort from the unknown river. How did the +Chipewyans obtain these pelts from the Eskimo? What was the real +reason of the Indian eagerness to conduct the white man to the +"Far-Off-Metal River"? The white man was not taken into the confidence +of the Indian council; but he could not fail to draw his own +conclusions. +</P> + +<P> +Scouts were sent cautiously forward to trail the path of the aliens who +had lighted the far moss fire. Women and children were ordered to head +about for a rendezvous southwest on Lake Athabasca. Carrying only the +lightest supplies, the braves set out swiftly for the North on June 1. +Mist and rain hung so heavily over the desolate moors that the +travellers could not see twenty feet ahead. In places the rocks were +glazed with ice and scored with runnels of water. Half the warriors +here lost heart and turned back. The others led by Hearne and +Matonabbee crossed the iced precipices on hands and knees, with gun +stocks strapped to backs or held in teeth. On the 21st of June the sun +did not set. Hearne had crossed the Arctic Circle. The sun hung on +the southern horizon all night long. Henceforth the travellers marched +without tents. During rain or snow storm, they took refuge under rocks +or in caves. Provisions turned mouldy with wet. The moss was too +soaked for fire. Snow fell so heavily in drifting storms that Hearne +often awakened in the morning to find himself almost immured in the +cave where they had sought shelter. Ice lay solid on the lakes in +July. Once, clambering up steep, bare heights, the travellers met a +herd of a hundred musk-oxen scrambling over the rocks with the agility +of squirrels, the spreading, agile hoof giving grip that lifted the +hulking forms over all obstacles. Down the bleak, bare heights there +poured cataract and mountain torrent, plainly leading to some near +river bed; but the thick gray fog lay on the land like a blanket. At +last a thunder-storm cleared the air; and Hearne saw bleak moors +sloping north, bare of all growth but the trunks of burnt trees, with +barren heights of rock and vast, desolate swamps, where the wild-fowl +flocked in myriads. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-262"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-262.jpg" ALT="Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago." BORDER="2" WIDTH="382" HEIGHT="210"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +All count of day and night was now lost, for the sun did not set. +Sometime between midnight and morning of July 12, 1771, with the sun as +bright as noon, the lakes converged to a single river-bed a hundred +yards wide, narrowing to a waterfall that roared over the rocks in +three cataracts. This, then, was the "Far-Off-Metal River." Plainly, +it was a disappointing discovery, this Coppermine River. It did not +lead to China. It did not point the way to a Northwest Passage. In +his disappointment, Hearne learned what every other discoverer in North +America had learned—that the Great Northwest was something more than a +bridge between Europe and Asia, that it was a world in itself with its +own destiny.[1] +</P> + +<P> +But Hearne had no time to brood over disappointment. The conduct of +his rascally companions could no longer be misunderstood. Hunters came +in with game; but when the hungry slaves would have lighted a moss fire +to cook the meat, the forbidding hand of a chief went up. No fires +were to be lighted. The Indians advanced with whispers, dodging from +stone to stone like raiders in ambush. Spies went forward on tiptoe. +Then far down-stream below the cataracts Hearne descried the domed +tent-tops of an Eskimo band sound asleep; for it was midnight, though +the sun was at high noon. When Hearne looked back to his companions, +he found himself deserted. The Indians were already wading the river +for the west bank, where the Eskimo had camped. Hearne overtook his +guides stripping themselves of everything that might impede flight or +give hand-hold to an enemy, and daubing their skin with war-paint. +Hearne begged Matonabbee to restrain the murderous warriors. The great +chief smiled with silent contempt. He was too true a disciple of a +doctrine which Indians' practised hundreds of years before white men +had avowed it—the survival of the fit, the extermination of the weak, +for any qualms of pity towards a victim whose death would contribute +profit. Wearing only moccasins and bucklers of hardened hide, armed +with muskets, lances, and tomahawks, the Indians jostled Hearne out of +their way, stole forward from stone to stone to within a gun length of +the Eskimo, then with a wild war shout flung themselves on the +unsuspecting sleepers. +</P> + +<P> +The Eskimo were taken unprepared. They staggered from their tents, +still dazed in sleep, to be mowed down by a crashing of firearms which +they had never before heard. The poor creatures fled in frantic +terror, to be met only by lance point and gun butt. A young girl fell +coiling at Hearne's feet like a wounded snake. A well-aimed lance had +pinioned the living form to earth. She caught Hearne round the knees, +imploring him with dumb entreaty; but the white man was pushed back +with jeers. Sobbing with horror, Hearne begged the Indians to put +their victim out of pain. The rocks rang with the mockery of the +torturers. She was speared to death before Hearne's eyes. On that +scene of indescribable horror the white man could no longer bear to +look. He turned toward the river, and there was a spectacle like a +nightmare. Some of the Eskimo were escaping by leaping to their hide +boats and with lightning strokes of the double-bladed paddles dashing +down the current to the far bank of the river; but sitting motionless +as stone was an old, old woman—probably a witch of the tribe—red-eyed +as if she were blind, deaf to all the noise about her, unconscious of +all her danger, fishing for salmon below the falls. There was a shout +from the raiders; the old woman did not even look up to face her fate; +and she too fell a victim to that thirst for blood which is as +insatiable in the redskin as in the wolf pack. Odd commentary in our +modern philosophies—this white-man explorer, unnerved, unmanned, +weeping with pity, this champion of the weak, jostled aside by +bloodthirsty, triumphant savages, represented the race that was to +jostle the Indian from the face of the New World. Something more than +a triumphant, aggressive Strength was needed to the permanency of a +race; and that something more was represented by poor, weak, +vacillating Hearne, weeping like a woman. +</P> + +<P> +Horror of the massacre robbed Hearne of all an explorer's exultation. +A day afterward, on July 17, he stood on the shores of the Arctic +Ocean,—the first white man to reach it overland in America. Ice +extended from the mouth of the river as far as eye could see. Not a +sign of land broke the endless reaches of cold steel, where the snow +lay, and icy green, where pools of the ocean cast their reflection on +the sky of the far horizon. At one in the morning, with the sun +hanging above the river to the south, Hearne formally took possession +of the Arctic regions for the Hudson's Bay Company. The same Company +rules those regions to-day. Not an eye had been closed for three days +and nights. Throwing themselves down on the wet shore, the entire band +now slept for six hours. The hunters awakened to find a musk-ox nosing +over the mossed rocks. A shot sent it tumbling over the cliffs. +Whether it was that the moss was too wet for fuel to cook the meat, or +the massacre had brutalized the men into beasts of prey, the Indians +fell on the carcass and devoured it raw.[2] +</P> + +<A NAME="img-266"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-266.jpg" ALT="Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's Drawing, 1733-47." BORDER="2" WIDTH="346" HEIGHT="503"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's Drawing, 1733-47.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The retreat from the Arctic was made with all swiftness, keeping close +to the Coppermine River. For thirty miles from the sea not a tree was +to be seen. The river was sinuous and narrow, hemmed in by walls of +solid rock, down which streamed cascades and mountain torrents. On +both sides of the high bank extended endless reaches of swamps and +barrens. Twenty miles from the sea Hearne found the copper mines from +which the Indians made their weapons. His guides were to join their +families in the Athabasca country of the southwest, and thither +Matonabbee now led the way at such a terrible pace that moccasins were +worn to shreds and toe-nails torn from the feet of the marchers; and +woe to the man who fell behind, for the wolf pack prowled on the rear. +</P> + +<P> +When the smoke of moss fires told of the wives' camp, the Indians +halted to take the sweat bath of purification for the cleansing of all +blood guilt from the massacre. Heated stones were thrown into a small +pool. In this each Indian bathed himself, invoking his deity for +freedom from all punishment for the deaths of the slain.[3] By August +the Indians had joined their wives. By October they were on Lake +Athabasca, which had already frozen. Here one of the wives, in the +last stages of consumption, could go no farther. For a band short of +food to halt on the march meant death to all. The Northern wilderness +has its grim unwritten law, inexorable and merciless as death. For +those who fall by the way there is no pity. A whole tribe may not be +exposed to death for the sake of one person. Civilized nations follow +the same principle in their quarantine. Giving the squaw food and a +tent, the Indians left her to meet her last enemy, whether death came +by starvation or cold or the wolf pack. Again and again the abandoned +squaw came up with the marchers, weeping and begging their pity, only +to fall from weakness. But the wilderness has no pity; and so they +left her. +</P> + +<P> +Christmas of 1771 was passed on Athabasca Lake, the northern lights +rustling overhead with the crackling of a flag. There was food in +plenty; for the Athabasca was rich in buffalo meadows and beaver dams +and moose yards. On the lake shore Hearne found a little cabin, in +which dwelt a solitary woman of the Dog Rib tribe who for eight months +had not seen a soul. Her band had been massacred. She alone escaped +and had lived here in hiding for almost a year. In spring the Indians +of the lake carried their furs to the forts of Hudson Bay. With the +Athabascans went Hearne, reaching Fort Prince of Wales on June 30, +1772, after eighteen months' absence. +</P> + +<P> +He had discovered Coppermine River, the Arctic Ocean, and the Athabasca +country,—a region in all as large as half European Russia. +</P> + +<P> +For his achievements Hearne received prompt promotion. Within a year +of his return to the fort, Governor Norton, the Indian bully, fell +deadly ill. In the agony of death throes, he called for his wives. +The great keys to the apartments of the women were taken from his +pillow, and the wives were brought in. Norton lay convulsed with pain. +One of the younger women began to sob. An officer of the garrison took +her hand to comfort her grief. Norton's rolling eyes caught sight of +the innocent conference between the officer and the young wife. With a +roar the dying bully hurled himself up in bed:— +</P> + +<P> +"I'll burn you alive! I'll burn you alive," he shrieked. With oaths +on his lips he fell back dead. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-270"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-270.jpg" ALT="Fort Prince of Wales (Churchill), from Hearne's Account, 1799 Edition." BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="270"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fort Prince of Wales (Churchill), from Hearne's Account, +1799 Edition.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Samuel Hearne became governor of the fort. For ten years nothing +disturbed the calm of his rule. Marie, Norton's daughter, still lived +in the shelter of the fort; the wives found consolation in other +husbands; and Matonabbee continued the ambassador of the company to +strange tribes. One afternoon of August, 1782, the sleepy calm of the +fort was upset by the sentry dashing in breathlessly with news that +three great vessels of war with full-blown sails and carrying many guns +were ploughing straight for Prince of Wales. At sundown the ships +swung at anchor six miles from the fort. From their masts fluttered a +foreign flag—the French ensign. Gig boat and pinnace began sounding +the harbor. Hearne had less than forty men to defend the fort. In the +morning four hundred French troopers lined up on Churchill River, and +the admiral, La Perouse, sent a messenger with demand of surrender. +Hearne did not feel justified in exposing his men to the attack of +three warships carrying from seventy to a hundred guns apiece, and to +assault by land of four hundred troopers. He surrendered without a +blow. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-271"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-271.jpg" ALT="Beaver Coin of Hudson's Bay Company, melted from Old Tea Chests, one Coin representing one Beaver." BORDER="2" WIDTH="331" HEIGHT="156"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Beaver Coin of Hudson's Bay Company, melted from Old Tea +Chests, <BR>one Coin representing one Beaver.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The furs were quickly transferred to the French ships, and the soldiers +were turned loose to loot the fort. The Indians fled, among them Moses +Norton's gentle daughter, now in her twenty-second year. She could not +revert to the loathsome habits of savage life; she dared not go to the +fort filled with lawless foreign soldiers; and she perished of +starvation outside the walls. Matonabbee had been absent when the +French came. He returned to find the fort where he had spent his life +in ruins. The English whom he thought invincible were defeated and +prisoners of war. Hearne, whom the dauntless old chief had led through +untold perils, was a captive. Matonabbee's proud spirit was broken. +The grief was greater than he could bear. All that living stood for +had been lost. Drawing off from observation, Matonabbee blew his +brains out. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] I have purposely avoided bringing up the dispute as to a mistake of +some few degrees made by Hearne in his calculations—the point really +being finical. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[2] I am sorry to say that in pioneer border warfares I have heard of +white men acting in a precisely similar beastly manner after some +brutal conflict. To be frank, I know of one case in the early days of +Minnesota fur trade, where the irate fur trader killed and devoured his +weak companion, not from famine, but sheer frenzy of brutalized +passion. Such naked light does wilderness life shed over our +drawing-room philosophies of the triumphantly strong being the highest +type of manhood. +</P> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[3] Again the wilderness plunges us back to the primordial: if man be +but the supreme beast of prey, whence this consciousness of blood guilt +in these unschooled children of the wilds? +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap10"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PART IV +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1780-1793 +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES—HOW MACKENZIE +CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES AND LEWIS +AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM +MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER X +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1780-1793 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the question of a +Northwest Passage +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +There is an old saying that if a man has the right mettle in him, you +may stick him a thousand leagues in the wilderness on a barren rock and +he will plant pennies and grow dollar bills. In other words, no matter +where or how, success will succeed. No class illustrates this better +than a type that has almost passed away—the old fur traders who were +lords of the wilderness. Cut off from all comfort, from all +encouragement, from all restraint, what set of men ever had fewer +incentives to go up, more temptations to go down? Yet from the fur +traders sprang the pioneer heroes of America. When young Donald Smith +came out—a raw lad—to America, he was packed off to eighteen years' +exile on the desert coast of Labrador. Donald Smith came out of the +wilderness to become the Lord Strathcona of to-day. Sir Alexander +Mackenzie's life presents even more dramatic contrasts. A clerk in a +counting-house at Montreal one year, the next finds him at Detroit +setting out for the backwoods of Michigan to barter with Indians for +furs. Then he is off with a fleet of canoes forty strong for the Upper +Country of forest and wilderness beyond the Great Lakes, where he +fights such a desperate battle with rivals that one of his companions +is murdered, a second lamed, a third wounded. In all this Alexander +Mackenzie was successful while still in the prime of his manhood,—not +more than thirty years of age; and the reward of his success was to be +exiled to the sub-arctics of the Athabasca, six weeks' travel from +another fur post,—not a likely field to play the hero. Yet Mackenzie +emerged from the polar wilderness bearing a name that ranks with +Columbus and Carrier and La Salle. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-276"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-276.jpg" ALT="Alexander Mackenzie, from a Painting of the Explorer." BORDER="2" WIDTH="181" HEIGHT="293"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Alexander Mackenzie, from a Painting of the Explorer.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Far north of the Missouri beyond the borderlands flows the +Saskatchewan. As far north again, beyond the Saskatchewan, flows +another great river, the Athabasca, into Athabasca Lake, on whose blue +shores to the north lies a little white-washed fort of some twenty log +houses, large barn-like stores, a Catholic chapel, an Episcopal +mission, and a biggish residence of pretence for the chief trader. +This is Fort Chipewyan. At certain seasons Indian tepees dot the +surrounding plains; and bronze-faced savages, clad in the ill-fitting +garments of white people, shamble about the stores, or sit haunched +round the shady sides of the log houses, smoking long-stemmed pipes. +These are the Chipewyans come in from their hunting-grounds; but for +the most part the fort seems chiefly populated by regiments of husky +dogs, shaggy-coated, with the sharp nose of the fox, which spend the +long winters in harness coasting the white wilderness, and pass the +summers basking lazily all day long except when the bell rings for fish +time, when half a hundred huskies scramble wildly for the first meat +thrown. +</P> + +<P> +A century ago Chipewyan was much the same as to-day, except that it lay +on the south side of the lake. Mails came only once in two years +instead of monthly, and rival traders were engaged in the merry game of +slitting each other's throats. All together, it wasn't exactly the +place for ambition to dream; but ambition was there in the person of +Alexander Mackenzie, the young fur trader, dreaming what he hardly +dared hope. Business men fight shy of dreamers; so Mackenzie told his +dreams to no one but his cousin Roderick, whom he pledged to secrecy. +For fifty years the British government had offered a reward of 20,000 +pounds to any one who should discover a Northwest Passage between the +Atlantic and the Pacific. The hope of such a passageway had led many +navigators on bootless voyages; and here was Mackenzie with the same +bee in his bonnet. To the north of Chipewyan he saw a mighty river, +more than a mile wide in places, walled in by great ramparts, and +flowing to unknown seas. To the west he saw another river rolling +through the far mountains. Where did this river come from, and where +did both rivers go? Mackenzie was not the man to leave vital questions +unanswered. He determined to find out; but difficulties lay in the +way. He couldn't leave the Athabascan posts. That was overcome by +getting his cousin Roderick to take charge. The Northwest Fur Company, +which had succeeded the French fur traders of Quebec and Montreal when +Canada passed from the hands of the French to the English, wouldn't +assume any cost or risk for exploring unknown seas. This was more +niggardly than the Hudson's Bay Company, which had paid all cost of +outlay for its explorers; but Mackenzie assumed risk and cost himself. +Then the Indians hesitated to act as guides; so Mackenzie hired guides +when he could, seized them by compulsion when he couldn't hire them, +and went ahead without guides when they escaped. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-278"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-278.jpg" ALT="Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for the Value of Three Beaver Skins." BORDER="2" WIDTH="382" HEIGHT="420"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, <BR> +for the Value of Three Beaver Skins.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +May—the frog moon—and June—the bird's egg moon—were the festive +seasons at Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabasca. Indian hunters came +tramping in from the Barren Lands with toboggan loads of pelts drawn by +half-wild husky dogs. Woody Crees and Slaves and Chipewyans paddled +across the lake in canoes laden to the gunwales with furs. A world of +white skin tepees sprang up like mushrooms round the fur post. By June +the traders had collected the furs, sorted and shipped them in +flotillas of keel boat, barge, and canoe, east to Lake Superior and +Montreal. On the evening of June 2, 1789, Alexander Mackenzie, chief +trader, had finished the year's trade and sent the furs to the Eastern +warehouses of the Northwest Company, on Lake Superior, at Fort William, +not far from where Radisson had first explored, and La Vérendrye +followed. Indians lingered round the fort of the Northern lake engaged +in mad <I>boissons</I>, or drinking matches, that used up a winter's +earnings in the spree of a single week. Along the shore lay upturned +canoes, keels red against the blue of the lake, and everywhere in the +dark burned the red fires of the boatmen melting resin to gum the seams +of the canoes; for the canoes were to be launched on a long voyage the +next day. Mackenzie was going to float down with the current of the +Athabasca or Grand River, and find out where that great river emptied +in the North. +</P> + +<P> +The crew must have spent the night in a last wild spree; for it was +nine in the morning before all hands were ready to embark. In +Mackenzie's large birch canoe went four Canadian <I>voyageurs</I>, their +Indian wives, and a German. In other canoes were the Indian hunters +and interpreters, led by "English Chief," who had often been to Hudson +Bay. Few provisions were taken. The men were to hunt, the women to +cook and keep the <I>voyageurs</I> supplied with moccasins, which wore out +at the rate of one pair a day for each man. Traders bound for Slave +Lake followed behind. Only fifty miles were made the first day. +Henceforth Mackenzie embarked his men at three and four in the morning. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-281"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-281.jpg" ALT="Quill and Bead Work on Buckskin, Mackenzie River Indians." BORDER="2" WIDTH="210" HEIGHT="307"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Quill and Bead Work on Buckskin, Mackenzie River Indians.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The mouth of Peace River was passed a mile broad as it pours down from +the west, and the boatmen <I>portaged</I> six rapids the third day, one of +the canoes, steered by a squaw more intent on her sewing than the +paddles, going over the falls with a smash that shivered the bark to +kindling-wood. The woman escaped, as the current caught the canoe, by +leaping into the water and swimming ashore with the aid of a line. Ice +four feet thick clung to the walls of the rampart shores, and this +increased the danger of landing for a <I>portage</I>, the Indians whining +out their complaints in exactly the tone of the wailing north wind that +had cradled their lives—"Eduiy, eduiy!—It is hard, white man, it is +hard!" And harder the way became. For nine nights fog lay so heavily +on the river that not a star was seen. This was followed by driving +rain and wind. Mackenzie hoisted a three-foot sail and cut over the +water before the wind with the hiss of a boiling kettle. Though the +sail did the work of the paddles, it gave the <I>voyageurs</I> no respite. +Cramped and rain-soaked, they had to bail out water to keep the canoe +afloat. In this fashion the boats entered Slave Lake, a large body of +water with one horn pointing west, the other east. Out of both horns +led unknown rivers. Which way should Mackenzie go? Low-lying +marshlands—beaver meadows where the wattled houses of the beaver had +stopped up the current of streams till moss overgrew the swamps and the +land became quaking muskeg—lay along the shores of the lake. There +were islands in deep water, where caribou had taken refuge, travelling +over ice in winter for the calves to be safe in summer from wolf pack +and bear. Mackenzie hired a guide from the Slave Indians to pilot the +canoes over the lake; but the man proved useless. Days were wasted +poking through mist and rushes trying to find an outlet to the Grand +River of the North. Finally, English Chief lost his temper and +threatened to kill the Slave Indian unless he succeeded in taking the +canoes out of the lake. The waters presently narrowed to half a mile; +the current began to race with a hiss; sails were hoisted on +fishing-poles; and Mackenzie found himself out of the rushes on the +Grand River to the west of Slave Lake. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-283"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-283.jpg" ALT="Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake Superior." BORDER="2" WIDTH="390" HEIGHT="237"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake Superior.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Here pause was made at a camp of Dog Ribs, who took the bottom from the +courage of Mackenzie's comrades by gruesome predictions that old age +would come upon the <I>voyageurs</I> before they reached salt water. There +were impassable falls ahead. The river flowed through a land of famine +peopled by a monstrous race of hostiles who massacred all Indians from +the South. The effect of these cheerful prophecies was that the Slave +Lake guide refused to go on. English Chief bodily put the recalcitrant +into a canoe and forced him ahead at the end of a paddle. Snow-capped +mountains loomed to the west. The river from Bear Lake was passed, +greenish of hue like the sea, and the Slave Lake guide now feigned such +illness that watch was kept day and night to prevent his escape. The +river now began to wind, with lofty ramparts on each side; and once, at +a sharp bend in the current, Mackenzie looked back to see Slave Lake +Indians following to aid the guide in escaping. After that one of the +white men slept with the fellow each night to prevent desertion; but +during the confusion of a terrific thunder-storm, when tents and +cooking utensils were hurled about their heads, the Slave succeeded in +giving his watchers the slip. Mackenzie promptly stopped at an +encampment of strange Indians, and failing to obtain another guide by +persuasion, seized and hoisted a protesting savage into the big canoe, +and signalled the unwilling captive to point the way. The Indians of +the river were indifferent, if not friendly; but once Mackenzie +discovered a band hiding their women and children as soon as the +boatmen came in view. The unwilling guide was forced ashore, as +interpreter, and gifts pacified all fear. But the incident left its +impression on Mackenzie's comrades. They had now been away from +Chipewyan for forty days. If it took much longer to go back, ice would +imprison them in the polar wilderness. Snow lay drifted in the +valleys, and scarcely any game was seen but fox and grouse. The river +was widening almost to the dimensions of a lake, and when this was +whipped by a north wind the canoes were in peril enough. The four +Canadians besought Mackenzie to return. To return Mackenzie had not +the slightest intention; but he would not tempt mutiny. He promised +that if he did not find the sea within seven days, he would go back. +</P> + +<P> +That night the sun hung so high above the southern horizon that the men +rose by mistake to embark at twelve o'clock. They did not realize that +they were in the region of midnight sun; but Mackenzie knew and +rejoiced, for he must be near the sea. The next day he was not +surprised to find a deserted Eskimo village. At that sight the +enthusiasm of the others took fire. They were keen to reach the sea, +and imagined that they smelt salt water. In spite of the lakelike +expanse of the river, the current was swift, and the canoes went ahead +at the rate of sixty and seventy miles a day—if it could be called day +when there was no night. Between the 13th and 14th of July the +<I>voyageurs</I> suddenly awakened to find themselves and their baggage +floating in rising water. What had happened to the lake? Their hearts +took a leap; for it was no lake. It was the tide. They had found the +sea. +</P> + +<P> +How hilariously jubilant were Mackenzie's men, one may guess from the +fact that they chased whales all the next day in their canoes. The +whales dived below, fortunately; for one blow of a finback or sulphur +bottom would have played skittles with the canoes. Coming back from +the whale hunt, triumphant as if they had caught a dozen finbacks, the +men erected a post, engraving on it the date, July 14, 1789, and the +names of all present. +</P> + +<P> +It had taken six weeks to reach the Arctic. It took eight to return to +Chipewyan, for the course was against stream, in many places tracking +the canoes by a tow-line. The beaver meadows along the shore impeded +the march. Many a time the quaking moss gave way, and the men sank to +mid-waist in water. While skirting close ashore, Mackenzie discovered +the banks of the river to be on fire. The fire was a natural tar bed, +which the Indians said had been burning for centuries and which burns +to-day as when Mackenzie found it. On September 12, with a high sail +up and a driving wind, the canoes cut across Lake Athabasca and reached +the beach of Chipewyan at three in the afternoon, after one hundred and +two days' absence. Mackenzie had not found the Northwest Passage. He +had proved there was no Northwest Passage, and discovered the +Mississippi of the north—Mackenzie River. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-286"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-286.jpg" ALT="Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River." BORDER="2" WIDTH="625" HEIGHT="410"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Mackenzie spent the long winter at Fort Chipewyan; but just as soon as +the rivers cleared of ice, he took passage in the east-bound canoes and +hurried down to the Grand Portage or Fort William on Lake Superior, the +headquarters of the Northwest Company, where he reported his discovery +of Mackenzie River. His report was received with utter indifference. +The company had other matters to think about. It was girding itself +for the life-and-death struggle with its rival, the Hudson's Bay +Company. "My expedition was hardly spoken of, but that is what I +expected," he writes to his cousin. But chagrin did not deter purpose. +He asked the directors' permission to explore that other broad +stream—Peace River—rolling down from the mountains. His request was +granted. Winter saw him on furlough in England, studying astronomy and +surveying for the next expedition. Here he heard much of the Western +Sea—the Pacific—that fired his eagerness. The voyages of Cook and +Hanna and Meares were on everybody's lips. Spain and England and +Russia were each pushing for first possession of the northwest coast. +Mackenzie hurried back to his Company's fort on the banks of Peace +River, where he spent a restless winter waiting for navigation to open. +Doubts of his own ambitions began to trouble him. What if Peace River +did not lead to the west coast at all? What if he were behind some +other discoverer sent out by the Spaniards or the Russians? "I have +been so vexed of late that I cannot sit down to anything steadily," he +confesses in a letter to his cousin. Such a tissue-paper wall +separates the aims of the real hero from those of the fool, that almost +every ambitious man must pass through these periods of self-doubt +before reaching the goal of his hopes. But despondency did not benumb +Mackenzie into apathy, as it has weaker men. +</P> + +<P> +By April he had shipped the year's furs from the forks of Peace River +to Chipewyan. By May his season's work was done. He was ready to go +up Peace River. A birch canoe thirty feet long, lined with lightest of +cedar, was built. In this were stored pemmican and powder. Alexander +Mackay, a clerk of the company, was chosen as first assistant. Six +Canadian <I>voyageurs</I>—two of whom had accompanied Mackenzie to the +Arctic—and two Indian hunters made up the party of ten who stepped +into the canoes at seven in the evening of May 9, 1793. +</P> + +<P> +Peace River tore down from the mountains flooded with spring thaw. The +crew soon realized that paddles must be bent against the current of a +veritable mill-race; but it was safer going against, than with, such a +current, for unknown dangers could be seen from below instead of above, +where suction would whirl a canoe on the rocks. Keen air foretold the +nearing mountains. In less than a week snow-capped peaks had crowded +the canoe in a narrow cañon below a tumbling cascade where the river +was one wild sheet of tossing foam as far as eye could see. The +difficulty was to land; for precipices rose on each side in a wall, +down which rolled enormous boulders and land-slides of loose earth. To +<I>portage</I> goods up these walls was impossible. Fastening an +eighty-foot tow-line to the bow, Mackenzie leaped to the declivity, axe +in hand, cut foothold along the face of the steep cliff to a place +where he could jump to level rock, and then, turning, signalled through +the roar of the rapids for his men to come on. The <I>voyageurs</I> were +paralyzed with fear. They stripped themselves ready to swim if they +missed the jump, then one by one vaulted from foothold to foothold +where Mackenzie had cut till they came to the final jump across water. +Here Mackenzie caught each on his shoulders as the <I>voyageurs</I> leaped. +The tow-line was then passed round trees growing on the edge of the +precipice, and the canoe tracked up the raging cascade. The waves +almost lashed the frail craft to pieces. Once a wave caught her +sideways; the tow-line snapped like a pistol shot, for just one instant +the canoe hung poised, and then the back-wash of an enormous boulder +drove her bow foremost ashore, where the <I>voyageurs</I> regained the +tow-line. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-290"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-290.jpg" ALT="Slave Lake Indians." BORDER="2" WIDTH="392" HEIGHT="312"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Slave Lake Indians.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The men had not bargained on this kind of work. They bluntly declared +that it was absurd trying to go up cañons with such cascades. +Mackenzie paid no heed to the murmurings. He got his crew to the top +of the hill, spread out the best of a regale—including tea sweetened +with sugar—and while the men were stimulating courage by a feast, he +went ahead to reconnoitre the gorge. Windfalls of enormous spruce +trees, with a thickness twice the height of a man, lay on a steep +declivity of sliding rock. Up this climbed Mackenzie, clothes torn to +tatters by devil's club (a thorn bush with spines like needles), boots +hacked to pieces by the sharp rocks, and feet gashed with cuts. The +prospect was not bright. As far as he could see the river was one +succession of cataracts fifty feet wide walled in by stupendous +precipices, down which rolled great boulders, shattering to pebbles as +they fell. The men were right. No canoe could go up that stream. +Mackenzie came back, set his men to repairing the canoe and making axe +handles, to avoid the idleness that breeds mutiny, and sent Mackay +ahead to see how far the rapids extended. Mackay reported that the +<I>portage</I> would be nine miles over the mountain. +</P> + +<P> +Leading the way, axe in hand, Mackenzie began felling trees so that the +trunks formed an outer railing to prevent a fall down the precipice. +Up this trail they warped the canoe by pulling the tow-line round +stumps, five men going in advance to cut the way, five hauling and +pushing the canoe. In one day progress was three miles. By five in +the afternoon the men were so exhausted that they went to bed—if bare +ground with sky overhead could be called bed. One thing alone +encouraged them: as they rose higher up the mountain side, they saw +that the green edges of the glaciers and the eternal snows projected +over the precipices. They were nearing the summit—they must surely +soon cross the Divide. The air grew colder. For three days the +choppers worked in their blanket coats. When they finally got the +canoe down to the river-bed, it was to see another range of impassable +mountains barring the way westward. All that kept Mackenzie's men from +turning back was that awful <I>portage</I> of nine miles. Nothing ahead +could be worse than what lay behind; so they embarked, following the +south branch where the river forked. The stream was swift as a +cascade. Half the crew walked to lighten the canoe and prevent grazing +on the rocky bottoms. +</P> + +<P> +Once, at dusk, when walkers and paddlers happened to have camped on +opposite shores, the marchers came dashing across stream, wading +neck-high, with news that they had heard the firearms of Indian +raiders. Fires were put out, muskets loaded, and each man took his +station at the foot of a tree, where all passed a sleepless night. No +hostiles appeared. The noise was probably falling avalanches. And +once when Mackenzie and Mackay had gone ahead with the Indian +interpreters, they came back to find that the canoe had disappeared. +In vain they kindled fires, fired guns, set branches adrift on the +swift current as a signal—no response came from the <I>voyageurs</I>. The +boatmen evidently did not wish to be found. What Mackenzie's +suspicions were one may guess. It would be easier for the crew to +float back down Peace River than pull against this terrific current +with more <I>portages</I> over mountains. The Indians became so alarmed +that they wanted to build a raft forthwith and float back to Chipewyan. +The abandoned party had not tasted a bite of food for twenty-four +hours. They had not even seen a grouse, and in their powder horns were +only a few rounds of ammunition. Separating, Mackenzie and his Indian +went up-stream, Mackay and his went down-stream, each agreeing to +signal the other by gunshots if either found the canoe. Barefooted and +drenched in a terrific thunderstorm, Mackenzie wandered on till +darkness shrouded the forest. He had just lain down on a soaking couch +of spruce boughs when the ricochetting echo of a gun set the boulders +crashing down the precipices. Hurrying down-stream, he found Mackay at +the canoe. The crew pretended that a leakage about the keel had caused +delay; but the canoe did not substantiate the excuse. Mackenzie said +nothing; but he never again allowed the crew out of his sight on the +east side of the mountains. +</P> + +<P> +So far there had been no sign of Indians among the mountains; and now +the canoe was gliding along calm waters when savages suddenly sprang +out of a thicket, brandishing spears. The crew became panic-stricken; +but Mackenzie stepped fearlessly ashore, offered the hostiles presents, +shook hands, and made his camp with them. The savages told him that he +was nearing a <I>portage</I> across the Divide. One of them went with +Mackenzie the next day as guide. The river narrowed to a small +tarn—the source of Peace River; and a short <I>portage</I> over rocky +ground brought the canoe to a second tarn emptying into a river that, +to Mackenzie's disappointment, did not flow west, but south. He had +crossed the Divide, the first white man to cross the continent in the +North; but how could he know whether to follow this stream? It might +lead east to the Saskatchewan. As a matter of fact, he was on the +sources of the Fraser, that winds for countless leagues south through +the mountains before turning westward for the Pacific. +</P> + +<P> +Full of doubt and misgivings, uncertain whether he had crossed the +Divide at all, Mackenzie ordered the canoe down this river. Snowy +peaks were on every side. Glaciers lay along the mountain tarns, icy +green from the silt of the glacier grinding over rock; and the river +was hemmed in by shadowy cañons with roaring cascades that compelled +frequent <I>portage</I>. Mackenzie wanted to walk ahead, in order to +lighten the canoe and look out for danger; but fear had got in the +marrow of his men. They thought that he was trying to avoid risks to +which he was exposing them; and they compelled him to embark, vowing, +if they were to perish, he was to perish with them. +</P> + +<P> +To quiet their fears, Mackenzie embarked with them. Barely had they +pushed out when the canoe was caught by a sucking undercurrent which +the paddlers could not stem—a terrific rip told them that the canoe +had struck—the rapids whirled her sideways and away she went +down-stream—the men jumped out, but the current carried them to such +deep water that they were clinging to the gunwales as best they could +when, with another rip, the stern was torn clean out of the canoe. The +blow sent her swirling—another rock battered the bow out—the keel +flattened like a raft held together only by the bars. Branches hung +overhead. The bowman made a frantic grab at these to stop the rush of +the canoe—he was hoisted clear from his seat and dropped ashore. +Mackenzie jumped out up to his waist in ice-water. The steersman had +yelled for each to save himself; but Mackenzie shouted out a +countermand for every man to hold on to the gunwales. In this fashion +they were all dragged several hundred yards till a whirl sent the wreck +into a shallow eddy. The men got their feet on bottom, and the +wreckage was hauled ashore. During the entire crisis the Indians sat +on top of the canoe, howling with terror. +</P> + +<P> +All the bullets had been lost. A few were recovered. Powder was +spread out to dry; and the men flatly refused to go one foot farther. +Mackenzie listened to the revolt without a word. He got their clothes +dry and their benumbed limbs warmed over a roaring fire. He fed them +till their spirits had risen. Then he quietly remarked that the +experience would teach them how to run rapids in the future. Men of +the North—to turn back? Such a thing had never been known in the +history of the Northwest Fur Company. It would disgrace them forever. +Think of the honor of conquering disaster. Then he vowed that he would +go ahead, whether the men accompanied him or not. Then he set them to +patching the canoe with oil-cloth and bits of bark; but large sheets of +birch bark are rare in the Rockies; and the patched canoe weighed so +heavily that the men could scarcely carry it. It took them fourteen +hours to make the three-mile <I>portage</I> of these rapids. The Indian +from the mountain tribe had lost heart. Mackenzie and Mackay watched +him by turns at night; but the fellow got away under cover of darkness, +the crew conniving at the escape in order to compel Mackenzie to turn +back. Finally the river wound into a large stream on the west side of +the main range of the Rockies. Mackenzie had crossed the Divide. +</P> + +<P> +For a week after crossing the Divide, the canoe followed the course of +the river southward. This was not what Mackenzie expected. He sought +a stream flowing directly westward, and was keenly alert for sign of +Indian encampment where he might learn the shortest way to the Western +Sea. Once the smoke of a camp-fire rose through the bordering forest; +but no sooner had Mackenzie's interpreters approached than the savages +fired volley after volley of arrows and swiftly decamped, leaving no +trace of a trail. There was nothing to do but continue down the +devious course of the uncertain river. The current was swift and the +outlook cut off by the towering mountains; but in a bend of the river +they came on an Indian canoe drawn ashore. A savage was just emerging +from a side stream when Mackenzie's men came in view. With a wild +whoop, the fellow made off for the woods; and in a trice the narrow +river was lined with naked warriors, brandishing spears and displaying +the most outrageous hostility. When Mackenzie attempted to land, +arrows hissed past the canoe, which they might have punctured and sunk. +Determined to learn the way westward from these Indians, Mackenzie +tried strategy. He ordered his men to float some distance from the +savages. Then he landed alone on the shore opposite the hostiles, +having sent one of his interpreters by a detour through the woods to +lie in ambush with fusee ready for instant action. Throwing aside +weapons, Mackenzie displayed tempting trinkets. The warriors +conferred, hesitated, jumped in the canoes, and came, backing stern +foremost, toward Mackenzie. He threw out presents. They came ashore +and were presently sitting by his side. +</P> + +<P> +From them he learned the river he was following ran for "many moons" +through the "shining mountains" before it reached the "midday sun." It +was barred by fearful rapids; but by retracing the way back up the +river, the white men could leave the canoe at a carrying place and go +overland to the salt water in eleven days. From other tribes down the +same river, Mackenzie gathered similar facts. He knew that the stream +was misleading him; but a retrograde movement up such a current would +discourage his men. He had only one month's provisions left. His +ammunition had dwindled to one hundred and fifty bullets and thirty +pounds of shot. Instead of folding his hands in despondency, Mackenzie +resolved to set the future at defiance and go on. From the Indians he +obtained promise of a man to guide him back. Then he frankly laid all +the difficulties before his followers, declaring that he was going on +alone and they need not continue unless they voluntarily decided to do +so. His dogged courage was contagious. The speech was received with +huzzas, and the canoe was headed upstream. +</P> + +<P> +The Indian guide was to join Mackenzie higher upstream; but the +reappearance of the white men when they had said they would not be back +for "many moons" roused the suspicions of the savages. The shores were +lined with warriors who would receive no explanation that Mackenzie +tried to give in sign language. The canoe began to leak so badly that +the boatmen had to spend half the time bailing out water; and the +<I>voyageurs</I> dared not venture ashore for resin. Along the river cliff +was a little three-cornered hut of thatched clay. Here Mackenzie took +refuge, awaiting the return of the savage who had promised to act as +guide. The three walls protected the rear, but the front of the hut +was exposed to the warriors across the river; and the whites dared not +kindle a fire that might serve as a target. Two nights were passed in +this hazardous shelter, Mackay and Mackenzie alternately lying in their +cloaks on the wet rocks, keeping watch. At midnight of the third day's +siege, a rustling came from the woods to the rear and the boatmen's dog +set up a furious barking. The men were so frightened that they three +times loaded the canoe to desert their leader, but something in the +fearless confidence of the explorer deterred them. As daylight sifted +through the forest, Mackenzie descried a vague object creeping through +the underbrush. A less fearless man would have fired and lost all. +Mackenzie dashed out to find the cause of alarm an old blind man, +almost in convulsions from fear. He had been driven from this river +hut. Mackenzie quieted his terror with food. By signs the old man +explained that the Indians had suspected treachery when the whites +returned so soon; and by signs Mackenzie requested him to guide the +canoe back up the river to the carrying place; but the old creature +went off in such a palsy of fear that he had to be lifted bodily into +the canoe. The situation was saved. The hostiles could not fire +without wounding one of their own people; and the old man could explain +the real reason for Mackenzie's return. Rations had been reduced to +two meals a day. The men were still sulking from the perils of the +siege when the canoe struck a stump that knocked a hole in the keel, +"which," reports Mackenzie, laconically, "gave them all an opportunity +to let loose their discontent without reserve." Camp after camp they +passed, which the old man's explanations pacified, till they at length +came to the carrying place. Here, to the surprise and delight of all, +the guide awaited them. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-301"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-301.jpg" ALT="Good Hope, Mackenzie River. Hudson's Bay Company Fort." BORDER="2" WIDTH="397" HEIGHT="301"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Good Hope, Mackenzie River. Hudson's Bay Company Fort.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +On July 4, provisions were <I>cached</I>, the canoe abandoned, and a start +made overland westward, each carrying ninety pounds of provisions +besides musket and pistols. And this burden was borne on the rations +of two scant meals a day. The way was ridgy, steep, and obstructed by +windfalls. At cloud-line, the rocks were slippery as glass from +moisture, and Mackenzie led the way, beating the drip from the branches +as they marched. The record was twelve miles the first day. When it +rained, the shelter was a piece of oil-cloth held up in an extemporized +tent, the men crouching to sleep as best they could. The way was well +beaten and camp was frequently made for the night with strange Indians, +from whom fresh guides were hired; but when he did not camp with the +natives, Mackenzie watched his guide by sleeping with him. Though the +fellow was malodorous from fish oil and infested with vermin, Mackenzie +would spread his cloak in such a way that escape was impossible without +awakening himself. No sentry was kept at night. All hands were too +deadly tired from the day's climb. Once, in the impenetrable gloom of +the midnight forest, Mackenzie was awakened by a plaintive chant in a +kind of unearthly music. A tribe was engaged in religious devotions to +some woodland deity. Totem poles of cedar, carved with the heads of +animals emblematic of family clans, told Mackenzie that he was nearing +the coast tribes. Barefooted, with ankles swollen and clothes torn to +shreds, they had crossed the last range of mountains within two weeks +of leaving the inland river. They now embarked with some natives for +the sea. +</P> + +<P> +One can guess how Mackenzie's heart thrilled as they swept down the +swift river—six miles an hour—past fishing weirs and Indian camps, +till at last, far out between the mountains, he descried the narrow arm +of the blue, limitless sea. The canoe leaked like a sieve; but what +did that matter? At eight o'clock on the morning of Saturday, July 20, +the river carried them to a wide lagoon, lapped by a tide, with the +seaweed waving for miles along the shore. Morning fog still lay on the +far-billowing ocean. Sea otters tumbled over the slimy rocks with +discordant cries. Gulls darted overhead; and past the canoe dived the +great floundering grampus. There was no mistaking. This was the +sea—the Western Sea, that for three hundred years had baffled all +search overland, and led the world's greatest explorers on a chase of a +will-o'-the-wisp. What Cartier and La Salle and La Vérendrye failed to +do, Mackenzie had accomplished. +</P> + +<P> +But Mackenzie's position was not to be envied. Ten starving men on a +barbarous coast had exactly twenty pounds of pemmican, fifteen of rice, +six of flour. Of ammunition there was scarcely any. Between home and +their leaky canoe lay half a continent of wilderness and mountains. +The next day was spent coasting the cove for a place to take +observations. Canoes of savages met the white men, and one impudent +fellow kept whining out that he had once been shot at by men of +Mackenzie's color. Mackenzie took refuge for the night on an isolated +rock which was barely large enough for his party to gain a foothold. +The savages hung about pestering the boatmen for gifts. Two white men +kept guard, while the rest slept. On Monday, when Mackenzie was +setting up his instruments, his young Indian guide came, foaming at the +mouth from terror, with news that the coast tribes were to attack the +white men by hurling spears at the unsheltered rock. The boatmen lost +their heads and were for instant flight, anywhere, everywhere, in a +leaky canoe that would have foundered a mile out at sea. Mackenzie did +not stir, but ordered fusees primed and the canoe gummed. Mixing up a +pot of vermilion, he painted in large letters on the face of the rock +where they had passed the night:— +</P> + +<P> +"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, +one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." +</P> + +<P> +The canoe was then headed eastward for the homeward trip. Only once +was the explorer in great danger on his return. It was just as the +canoe was leaving tide-water for the river. The young Indian guide led +him full tilt into the village of hostiles that had besieged the rock. +Mackenzie was alone, his men following with the baggage. Barely had he +reached the woods when two savages sprang out, with daggers in hand +ready to strike. Quick as a flash, Mackenzie quietly raised his gun. +They dropped back; but he was surrounded by a horde led by the impudent +chief of the attack on the rock the first night on the sea. One +warrior grasped Mackenzie from behind. In the scuffle hat and cloak +came off; but Mackenzie shook himself free, got his sword out, and +succeeded in holding the shouting rabble at bay till his men came. +Then such was his rage at the indignity that he ordered his followers +in line with loaded fusees, marched to the village, demanded the return +of the hat and cloak, and obtained a peace-offering of fish as well. +The Indians knew the power of firearms, and fell at his feet in +contrition. Mackenzie named this camp Rascal Village. +</P> + +<P> +At another time his men lost heart so completely over the difficulties +ahead that they threw everything they were carrying into the river. +Mackenzie patiently sat on a stone till they had recovered from their +panic. Then he reasoned and coaxed and dragooned them into the spirit +of courage that at last brought them safely over mountain and through +cañon to Peace River. On August 24, a sharp bend in the river showed +them the little home fort which they had left four months before. The +joy of the <I>voyageurs</I> fairly exploded. They beat their paddles on the +canoe, fired off all the ammunition that remained, waved flags, and set +the cliffs ringing with shouts. +</P> + +<P> +Mackenzie spent the following winter at Chipewyan, despondent and +lonely. "What a situation, starving and alone!" he writes to his +cousin. The hard life was beginning to wear down the dauntless spirit. +"I spend the greater part of my time in vague speculations.… In +fact my mind was never at ease, nor could I bend it to my wishes. +Though I am not superstitious, my dreams cause me great annoyance. I +scarcely close my eyes without finding myself in company with the dead." +</P> + +<P> +The following winter Mackenzie left the West never to return. The +story of his travels was published early in the nineteenth century, and +he was knighted by the English king. The remainder of his life was +spent quietly on an estate in Scotland, where he died in 1820. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-306"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-306.jpg" ALT="The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight Sun.--C. W. Mathers." BORDER="2" WIDTH="406" HEIGHT="274"> +<H4> +[Illustration: The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light +<BR> +of the Midnight Sun.—C. W. Mathers.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap11"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER XI +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +1803-1806 +</H3> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +LEWIS AND CLARK +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend the +Columbia to the Pacific—Exciting Adventures on the Cañons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone—Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The spring of 1904 witnessed the centennial celebration of an area as +large as half the kingdoms of Europe, that has the unique distinction of +having transferred its allegiance to three different flags within +twenty-four hours. +</P> + +<P> +At the opening of the nineteenth century Spain had ceded all the region +vaguely known as Louisiana back to France, and France had sold the +territory, to the United States; but post-horse and stage of those old +days travelled slowly. News of Spain's cession and France's sale reached +Louisiana almost simultaneously. On March 9, 1804, the Spanish grandees +of St. Louis took down their flag and, to the delight of Louisiana, for +form's sake erected French colors. On March 10, the French flag was +lowered for the emblem that has floated over the Great West ever +since—the stars and stripes. How vast was the new territory acquired, +the eastern states had not the slightest conception. As early as 1792 +Captain Gray, of the ship <I>Columbia</I>, from Boston, had blundered into the +harbor of a vast river flowing into the Pacific. What lay between this +river and that other great river on the eastern side of the +mountains—the Missouri? Jefferson had arranged with John Ledyard of +Connecticut, who had been with Captain Cook on the Pacific, to explore +the northwest coast of America by crossing Russia overland; but Russia +had similar designs for herself, and stopped Ledyard on the way. In 1803 +President Jefferson asked Congress for an appropriation to explore the +Northwest by way of the Missouri. Now that the wealth of the West is +beyond the estimate of any figure, it seems almost inconceivable that +there were people little-minded enough to haggle over the price paid for +Louisiana—$15,000,000—and to object to the appropriation required for +its exploration—$2500; but fortunately the world goes ahead in spite of +hagglers. +</P> + +<P> +May of 1804 saw Captain Meriwether Lewis, formerly secretary to President +Jefferson, and Captain William Clark of Virginia launch out from Wood +River opposite St. Louis, where they had kept their men encamped all +winter on the east side of the Mississippi, waiting until the formal +transfer of Louisiana for the long journey of exploration to the sources +of the Missouri and the Columbia. Their escort consisted of twenty +soldiers, eleven <I>voyageurs</I>, and nine frontiersmen. The main craft was +a keel boat fifty-five feet long, of light draft, with square-rigged sail +and twenty-two oars, and tow-line fastened to the mast pole to track the +boat upstream through rapids. An American flag floated from the prow, +and behind the flag the universal types of progress everywhere—goods for +trade and a swivel-gun. Horses were led alongshore for hunting, and two +pirogues—sharp at prow, broad at stern, like a flat-iron or a +turtle—glided to the fore of the keel boat. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-309"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-309.jpg" ALT="Captain Meriwether Lewis." BORDER="2" WIDTH="280" HEIGHT="347"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Captain Meriwether Lewis.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The Missouri was at flood tide, turbid with crumbling clay banks and +great trees torn out by the roots, from which keel boat and pirogues +sheered safely off. For the first time in history the Missouri resounded +to the Fourth of July guns; and round camp-fire the men danced to the +strains of a <I>voyageur's</I> fiddle. Usually, among forty men is one +traitor, and Liberte must desert on pretence of running back for a knife; +but perhaps the fellow took fright from the wild yarns told by the +lonely-eyed, shaggy-browed, ragged trappers who came floating down the +Platte, down the Osage, down the Missouri, with canoe loads of furs for +St. Louis. These men foregathered with the <I>voyageurs</I> and told only too +true stories of the dangers ahead. Fires kindled on the banks of the +river called neighboring Indians to council. Council Bluffs commemorates +one conference, of which there were many with Iowas and Omahas and +Ricarees and Sioux. Pause was made on the south side of the Missouri to +visit the high mound where Blackbird, chief of the Omahas, was buried +astride his war horse that his spirit might forever watch the French +<I>voyageurs</I> passing up and down the river. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-310"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-310.jpg" ALT="Captain William Clark." BORDER="2" WIDTH="296" HEIGHT="358"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Captain William Clark.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +By October the explorers were sixteen hundred miles north of St. Louis, +at the Mandan villages near where Bismarck stands to-day. The Mandans +welcomed the white men; but the neighboring tribes of Ricarees were +insolent. "Had I these white warriors on the upper plains," boasted a +chief to Charles Mackenzie, one of the Northwest Fur Company men from +Canada, "my young men on horseback would finish them as they would so +many wolves; for there are only two sensible men among them, the worker +of iron [blacksmith] and the mender of guns." Four Canadian traders had +already been massacred by this chief. Captain Lewis knew that his +company must winter on the east side of the mountains, and there were a +dozen traders—Hudson Bay and Nor'westers—on the ground practising all +the unscrupulous tricks of rivals, Nor'westers driving off Hudson Bay +horses, Hudson Bay men driving off Nor'-westers', to defeat trade; so +Captain Lewis at once had a fort constructed. It was triangular in +shape, the two converging walls consisting of barracks with a loopholed +bastion at the apex, the base being a high wall of strong pickets where +sentry kept constant guard. Hitherto Captain Lewis had been able to +secure the services of French trappers as interpreters with the Indians; +but the next year he was going where there were no trappers; and now he +luckily engaged an old Nor'wester, Chaboneau, whose Indian wife, +Sacajawea, was a captive from the Snake tribe of the Rockies.[1] On +Christmas morning, the stars and stripes were hoisted above Fort Mandan; +and all that night the men danced hilariously. On New Years of 1805, the +white men visited the Mandan lodges, and one <I>voyageur</I> danced "on his +head" to the uproarious applause of the savages. All winter the men +joined in the buffalo hunts, laying up store of pemmican. In February, +work was begun on the small boats for the ascent of the Missouri. By the +end of March, the river had cleared of ice, and a dozen men were sent +back to St. Louis. +</P> + +<P> +At five, in the afternoon of April 7, six canoes and two pirogues were +pushed out on the Missouri. Sails were hoisted; a cheer from the +Canadian traders and Indians standing on the shore—and the boats glided +up the Missouri with flags flying from foremost prow. Hitherto Lewis and +Clark had passed over travelled ground. Now they had set sail for the +Unknown. Within a week they had passed the Little Missouri, the height +of land that divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the +Saskatchewan, and the great Yellowstone River, first found by wandering +French trappers and now for the first time explored. The current of the +Missouri grew swifter, the banks steeper, and the use of the tow-line +more frequent. The voyage was no more the holiday trip that it had been +all the way from St. Louis. Hunters were kept on the banks to forage for +game, and once four of them came so suddenly on an open-mouthed, +ferocious old bear that he had turned hunter and they hunted before guns +could be loaded; and the men saved themselves only by jumping twenty feet +over the bank into the river. +</P> + +<P> +For miles the boats had to be tracked up-stream by the tow-line. The +shore was so steep that it offered no foothold. Men and stones slithered +heterogeneously down the sliding gravel into the water. Moccasins wore +out faster than they could be sewed; and the men's feet were cut by +prickly-pear and rock as if by knives. On Sunday, May 26, when Captain +Lewis was marching to lighten the canoes, he had just climbed to the +summit of a high, broken cliff when there burst on his glad eyes a first +glimpse of the far, white "Shining Mountains" of which the Indians told, +the Rockies, snowy and dazzling in the morning sun. One can guess how +the weather-bronzed, ragged man paused to gaze on the glimmering summits. +Only one other explorer had ever been so far west in this region—young +De la Vérendrye, fifty years before; but the Frenchman had been compelled +to turn back without crossing the mountains, and the two Americans were +to assail and conquer what had proved an impassable barrier. The +Missouri had become too deep for poles, too swift for paddles; and the +banks were so precipitous that the men were often poised at dizzy heights +above the river, dragging the tow-line round the edge of rock and crumbly +cliff. Captain Lewis was leading the way one day, crawling along the +face of a rock wall, when he slipped. Only a quick thrust of his +spontoon into the cliff saved him from falling almost a hundred feet. He +had just struck it with terrific force into the rock, where it gave him +firm handhold, when he heard a voice cry, "Good God, Captain, what shall +I do?" +</P> + +<A NAME="img-314"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-314.jpg" ALT="Tracking Up-stream." BORDER="2" WIDTH="401" HEIGHT="308"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Tracking Up-stream.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Windsor, a frontiersman, had slipped to the very verge of the rock, where +he lay face down with right arm and leg completely over the precipice, +his left hand vainly grabbing empty air for grip of anything that would +hold him back. Captain Lewis was horrified, but kept his presence of +mind; for the man's life hung by a thread. A move, a turn, the slightest +start of alarm to disturb Windsor's balance—and he was lost. Steadying +his voice, Captain Lewis shouted back, "You're in little danger. Stick +your knife in the cliff to hoist yourself up." +</P> + +<P> +With the leverage of the knife, Windsor succeeded in lifting himself back +to the narrow ledge. Then taking off his moccasins, he crawled along the +cliff to broader foothold. Lewis sent word for the crews to wade the +margin of the river instead of attempting this pass—which they did, +though shore water was breast high and ice cold. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-316"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-316.jpg" ALT="Typical Mountain Trapper." BORDER="2" WIDTH="296" HEIGHT="387"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Typical Mountain Trapper.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The Missouri had now become so narrow that it was hard to tell which was +the main river and which a tributary; so Captain Lewis and four men went +in advance to find the true course. Leaving camp at sunrise, Captain +Lewis was crossing a high, bare plain, when he heard the most musical of +all wilderness sounds—the far rushing that is the voice of many waters. +Far above the prairie there shimmered in the morning sun a gigantic plume +of spray. Surely this was the Great Falls of which the Indians told. +Lewis and his men broke into a run across the open for seven miles, the +rush of waters increasing to a deafening roar, the plume of spray to +clouds of foam. Cliffs two hundred feet high shut off the view. Down +these scrambled Lewis, not daring to look away from his feet till safely +at bottom, when he faced about to see the river compressed by sheer +cliffs over which hurled a white cataract in one smooth sheet eighty feet +high. The spray tossed up in a thousand bizarre shapes of wind-driven +clouds. Captain Lewis drew the long sigh of the thing accomplished. He +had found the Great Falls of the Missouri. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-317"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-317.jpg" ALT="The Discovery of the Great Falls." BORDER="2" WIDTH="402" HEIGHT="642"> +<H4> +[Illustration: The Discovery of the Great Falls.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Seating himself on the rock, he awaited his hunters. That night they +camped under a tree near the falls. Morning showed that the river was +one succession of falls and rapids for eighteen miles. Here was indeed a +stoppage to the progress of the boats. Sending back word to Captain +Clark of the discovery of the falls, Lewis had ascended the course of the +cascades to a high hill when he suddenly encountered a herd of a thousand +buffalo. It was near supper-time. Quick as thought, Lewis fired. What +was his amazement to see a huge bear leap from the furze to pounce on the +wounded quarry; and what was Bruin's amazement to see the unusual +spectacle of a thing as small as a man marching out to contest possession +of that quarry? Man and bear reared up to look at each other. Bear had +been master in these regions from time immemorial. Man or beast—which +was to be master now? Lewis had aimed his weapon to fire again, when he +recollected that it was not loaded; and the bear was coming on too fast +for time to recharge. Captain Lewis was a brave man and a dignified man; +but the plain was bare of tree or brush, and the only safety was +inglorious flight. But if he had to retreat, the captain determined that +he <I>would</I> retreat only at a walk. The rip of tearing claws sounded from +behind, and Lewis looked over his shoulder to see the bear at a hulking +gallop, open-mouthed,—and off they went, explorer and exploited, in a +sprinting match of eighty yards, when the grunting roar of pursuer told +pursued that the bear was gaining. Turning short, Lewis plunged into the +river to mid-waist and faced about with his spontoon at the bear's nose. +A sudden turn is an old trick with all Indian hunters; the bear +floundered back on his haunches, reconsidered the sport of hunting this +new animal, man, and whirled right about for the dead buffalo. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-319"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-319.jpg" ALT="Fighting a Grizzly." BORDER="2" WIDTH="400" HEIGHT="639"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Fighting a Grizzly.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It took the crews from the 15th to the 25th of June to <I>portage</I> past the +Great Falls. Cottonwood trees yielded carriage wheels two feet in +diameter, and the masts of the pirogues made axletrees. On these +wagonettes the canoes were dragged across the <I>portage</I>. It was hard, +hot work. Grizzlies prowled round the camp at night, wakening the +exhausted workers. The men actually fell asleep on their feet as they +toiled, and spent half the night double-soling their torn moccasins, for +the cactus already had most of the men limping from festered feet. Yet +not one word of complaint was uttered; and once, when the men were camped +on a green along the <I>portage</I>, a <I>voyageur</I> got out his fiddle, and the +sore feet danced, which was more wholesome than moping or poulticing. +The boldness of the grizzlies was now explained. Antelope and buffalo +were carried over the falls. The bears prowled below for the carrion. +</P> + +<P> +After failure to construct good hide boats, two other craft, twenty-five +and thirty-three feet long, were knocked together, and the crews launched +above the rapids for the far Shining Mountains that lured like a +mariner's beacon. Night and day, when the sun was hot, came the +boom-boom as of artillery from the mountains. The <I>voyageurs</I> thought +this the explosion of stones, but soon learned to recognize the sound of +avalanche and land-slide. The river became narrower, deeper, swifter, as +the explorers approached the mountains. For five miles rocks rose on +each side twelve hundred feet high, sheer as a wall. Into this shadowy +cañon, silent as death, crept the boats of the white men, vainly +straining their eyes for glimpse of egress from the watery defile. A +word, a laugh, the snatch of a <I>voyageur's</I> ditty, came back with elfin +echo, as if spirits hung above the dizzy heights spying on the intruders. +Springs and tenuous, wind-blown falls like water threads trickled down +each side of the lofty rocks. The water was so deep that poles did not +touch bottom, and there was not the width of a foot-hold between water +and wall for camping ground. Flags were unfurled from the prows of the +boats to warn marauding Indians on the height above that the <I>voyageurs</I> +were white men, not enemies. Darkness fell on the cañon with the great +hushed silence of the mountains; and still the boats must go on and on in +the darkness, for there was no anchorage. Finally, above a small island +in the middle of the river, was found a tiny camping ground with +pine-drift enough for fire-wood. Here they landed in the pitchy dark. +They had entered the Gates of the Rockies on the 19th of July. In the +morning bighorn and mountain goat were seen scrambling along the ledges +above the water. On the 25th the Three Forks of the Missouri were +reached. Here the Indian woman, Sacajawea, recognized the ground and +practically became the guide of the party, advising the two explorers to +follow the south fork or the Jefferson, as that was the stream which her +tribe followed when crossing the mountains to the plains. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-320"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-320.jpg" ALT="Packer carrying Goods across Portage." BORDER="2" WIDTH="219" HEIGHT="411"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Packer carrying Goods across Portage.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It now became absolutely necessary to find mountain Indians who would +supply horses and guide the white men across the Divide. In the hope of +finding the Indian trail, Captain Lewis landed with two men and preceded +the boats. He had not gone five miles when to his sheer delight he saw a +Snake Indian on horseback. Ordering his men to keep back, he advanced +within a mile of the horseman and three times spread his blanket on the +ground as a signal of friendship. The horseman sat motionless as bronze. +Captain Lewis went forward, with trinkets held out to tempt a parley, and +was within a few hundred yards when the savage wheeled and dashed off. +Lewis' men had disobeyed orders and frightened the fellow by advancing. +Deeply chagrined, Lewis hoisted an American flag as sign of friendship +and continued his march. Tracks of horses were followed across a bog, +along what was plainly an Indian road, till the sources of the Missouri +became so narrow that one of the men put a foot on each side and thanked +God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. Stooping, all drank from +the crystal spring whose waters they had traced for three thousand miles +from St. Louis. Following a steep declivity, they were presently +crossing the course of a stream that flowed west and must lead to some +branch of the Columbia. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-322"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-322.jpg" ALT="Spying on an Enemy's Fort." BORDER="2" WIDTH="392" HEIGHT="196"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Spying on an Enemy's Fort.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Suddenly, on the cliff in front, Captain Lewis discovered two squaws, an +Indian, and some dogs. Unfurling his flag, he advanced. The Indians +paused, then dashed for the woods. Lewis tried to tie some presents +round the dogs' necks as a peace-offering, but the curs made off after +their master. The white men had not proceeded a mile before they came to +three squaws, who never moved but bowed their heads to the ground for the +expected blow that would make them captives. Throwing down weapons, +Lewis pulled up his sleeve to show that he was white. Presents allayed +all fear, and the squaws had led him two miles toward their camp when +sixty warriors came galloping at full speed with arrows levelled. The +squaws rushed forward, vociferating and showing their presents. Three +chiefs at once dismounted, and fell on Captain Lewis with such greasy +embraces of welcome that he was glad to end the ceremony. Pipes were +smoked, presents distributed, and the white men conducted to a great +leathern lodge, where Lewis announced his mission and prepared the +Indians for the coming of the main force in the boats. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-324"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-324.jpg" ALT="Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies." BORDER="2" WIDTH="405" HEIGHT="315"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The Snakes scarcely knew whether to believe the white man's tale. The +Indian camp was short of provisions, and Lewis urged the warriors to come +back up the trail to meet the advancing boats. The braves hesitated. +Cameahwait, the chief, harangued till a dozen warriors mounted their +horses and set out, Lewis and his men each riding behind an Indian. +Captain Clark could advance only slowly, and the Indians with Lewis grew +suspicious as they entered the rocky denies without meeting the +explorers' party. Half the Snakes turned back. Among those that went on +were three women. To demonstrate good faith, Lewis again mounted a horse +behind an Indian, though the bare-back riding over rough ground at a mad +pace was almost jolting his bones apart. A spy came back breathless with +news for the hungry warriors that one of the white hunters had killed a +deer, and the whole company lashed to a breakneck gallop that nearly +finished Lewis, who could only cling for dear life to the Indian's waist. +The poor wretches were so ravenous that they fell on the dead deer and +devoured it raw. It was here that Lewis expected the boats. They were +not to be seen. The Indians grew more distrustful. The chief at once +put fur collars, after the fashion of Indian dress, round the white men's +shoulders. As this was plainly a trick to conceal the whites in case of +treachery on their part, Lewis at once took off his hat and placed it on +the chief's head. Then he hurried the Indians along, lest they should +lose courage completely. To his mortification, Captain Clark did not +appear. To revive the Indians' courage, the white men then passed their +guns across to the Snakes, signalling willingness to suffer death if the +Indians discovered treachery. That night all the Indians hid in the +woods but five, who slept on guard round the whites. If anything had +stopped Clark's advance, Lewis was lost. Though neither knew it, Lewis +and Clark were only four miles apart, Clark, Chaboneau, the guide, and +Sacajawea, the Indian woman, were walking on the shore early in the +morning, when the squaw began to dance with signs of the most extravagant +joy. Looking ahead, Clark saw one of Lewis' men, disguised as an Indian, +leading a company of Snake warriors that the squaw had recognized as her +own people, from whom she had been wrested when a child. The Indians +broke into songs of delight, and Sacajawea, dashing through the crowd, +threw her arms round an Indian woman, sobbing and laughing and exhibiting +all the hysterical delight of a demented creature. Sacajawea and the +woman had been playmates in childhood and had been captured in the same +war; but the Snake woman had escaped, while Sacajawea became a slave and +married the French guide. +</P> + +<P> +Meanwhile, Captain Clark was being welcomed by Lewis and the chief, +Cameahwait. Sacajawea was called to interpret. Cameahwait rose to +speak. The poor squaw flung herself on him with cries of delight. In +the chief of the Snakes she had recognized her brother. Laced coats, +medals, flags, and trinkets were presented to the Snakes; but though +willing enough to act as guides, the Indians discouraged the explorers +about going on in boats. The western stream was broken for leagues by +terrible rapids walled in with impassable precipices. Boats were +abandoned and horses bought from the Snakes. The white men set their +faces northwestward, the southern trail, usually followed by the Snakes, +leading too much in the direction of the Spanish settlements. Game grew +so scarce that by September the men were without food and a colt was +killed for meat. +</P> + +<P> +By October the company was reduced to a diet of dog; but the last Divide +had been crossed. Horses were left with an Indian chief of the +Flatheads, and the explorers glided down the Clearwater, leading to the +Columbia, in five canoes and one pilot boat. Great was the joy in camp +on November 8, 1805; for the boats had passed the last <I>portage</I> of the +Columbia. When heavy fog rose, there burst on the eager gaze of the +<I>voyageurs</I> the shining expanse of the Pacific. The shouts of the +jubilant <I>voyageurs</I> mingled with the roar of ocean breakers. Like +Alexander Mackenzie of the far North a decade before, Lewis and Clark had +reached the long-sought Western Sea. They had been first up the +Missouri, first across the middle Rockies, and first down the Columbia to +the Pacific. +</P> + +<P> +Seven huts, known as Fort Clatsop, were knocked up on the south side of +the Columbia's harbor for winter quarters; and a wretched winter the +little fort spent, beleaguered not by hostiles, but by such inclement +damp that all the men were ill before spring and their very leather suits +rotted from their backs. Many a time, coasting the sea, were they +benighted. Spreading mats on the sand, they slept in the drenching rain. +Unused to ocean waters, the inland voyageurs became deadly seasick. +Once, when all were encamped on the shore, an enormous tidal wave broke +over the camp with a smashing of log-drift that almost crushed the boats. +Nez Perces and Flatheads had assisted the white men after the Snake +guides had turned back. Clatsops and Chinooks were now their neighbors. +Christmas and New Year of 1806 were celebrated by a discharge of +firearms. No boats chanced to touch at the Columbia during the winter. +The time was passed laying up store of elk meat and leather; for the +company was not only starving, but nearly naked. The Pacific had been +reached on November 14, 1805. Fort Clatsop was evacuated on the +afternoon of March 23, 1806. +</P> + +<P> +The goods left to trade for food and horses when Lewis and Clark departed +from the coast inland had dwindled to what could have been tied in two +handkerchiefs; but necessity proved the mother of invention, and the men +cut the brass buttons from their tattered clothes and vended brass +trinkets to the Indians. The medicine-chest was also sacrificed, every +Indian tribe besieging the two captains for eye-water, fly-blisters, and +other patent wares. The poverty of the white man roused the insolence of +the natives on the return over the mountains. Rocks were rolled down on +the boatmen at the worst <I>portages</I> by aggressive Indians; and once, when +the hungry <I>voyageurs</I> were at a meal of dog meat, an Indian impudently +flung a live pup straight at Captain Lewis' plate. In a trice the pup +was back in the fellow's face; Lewis had seized a weapon; and the +crestfallen aggressor had taken ignominiously to his heels. When they +had crossed the mountains, the forces divided into three parties, two to +go east by the Yellowstone, one under Lewis by the main Missouri. +</P> + +<P> +Somewhere up the height of land that divides the southern waters of the +Saskatchewan from the northern waters of the Missouri, the tracks of +Minnetaree warriors were found. These were the most murderous raiders of +the plains. Over a swell of the prairie Lewis was startled to see a band +of thirty horses, half of them saddled. The Indians were plainly on the +war-path, for no women were in camp; so Lewis took out his flag and +advanced unfalteringly. An Indian came forward. Lewis and the chief +shook hands, but Lewis now had no presents to pacify hostiles. Camping +with the Minnetarees for the night, as if he feared nothing, Lewis +nevertheless took good care to keep close watch on all movements. He +smoked the pipe of peace with them as late as he dared; and when he +retired to sleep, he had ordered Fields and the other two white men to be +on guard. At sunrise the Indians crowded round the fire, where Fields +had for the moment carelessly laid his rifle. Simultaneously, the +warriors dashed at the weapons of the sleeping white men, while other +Indians made off with the explorers' horses. With a shout, Fields gave +the alarm, and pursuing the thieves, grappled with the Indian who had +stolen his rifle. In the scuffle the Indian was stabbed to the heart. +Drewyer succeeded in wresting back his gun, and Lewis dashed out with his +pistol, shouting for the Indians to leave the horses. The raiders were +mounting to go off at full speed. The white men pursued on foot. Twelve +horses fell behind; but just as the Indians dashed for hiding behind a +cliff, Lewis' strength gave out. He warned them if they did not stop he +would shoot. An Indian turned to fire with one of the stolen weapons, +and instantly Lewis' pistol rang true. The fellow rolled to earth +mortally wounded; but Lewis felt the whiz of a bullet past his own head. +Having captured more horses than they had lost, the white men at once +mounted and rode for their lives through river and slough, sixty miles +without halt; for the Minnetarees would assuredly rally a larger band of +warriors to their aid. A pause of an hour to refresh the horses and a +wilder ride by moonlight put forty more miles between Captain Lewis and +danger. At daylight the men were so sore from the mad pace for +twenty-four hours that they could scarcely stand; but safety depended on +speed and on they went again till they reached the main Missouri, where +by singularly good luck some of the other <I>voyageurs</I> had arrived. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-328"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-328.jpg" ALT="On Guard." BORDER="2" WIDTH="624" HEIGHT="412"> +<H4> +[Illustration: On Guard.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The entire forces were reunited below the Yellowstone on August 12th. +Traders on the way up the Missouri from St. Louis brought first news of +the outer world, and the discoverers were not a little amused to learn +that they had been given up for dead. At the Mandans, Colter, one of the +frontiersmen, asked leave to go back to the wilds; and Chaboneau, with +his dauntless wife, bade the white men farewell. On September 20th +settlers on the river bank above St. Louis were surprised to see thirty +ragged men, with faces bronzed like leather, passing down the river. +Then some one remembered who these worn <I>voyageurs</I> were, and cheers of +welcome made the cliffs of the Missouri ring. On September 23d, at +midday, the boats drew quietly up to the river front of St. Louis. +Lewis and Clark, the greatest pathfinders of the United States, had +returned from the discovery of a new world as large as half Europe, +without losing a single man but Sergeant Floyd, who had died from natural +causes a few months after leaving St. Louis. What Radisson had begun in +1659-1660, what De la Vérendrye had attempted when he found the way +barred by the Rockies—was completed by Lewis and Clark in 1805. It was +the last act in that drama of heroes who carved empire out of wilderness; +and all alike possessed the same hero-qualities—courage and endurance +that were indomitable, the strength that is generated in life-and-death +grapple with naked primordial reality, and that reckless daring which +defies life and death. Those were hero-days; and they produced +hero-types, who flung themselves against the impossible—and conquered +it. What they conquered we have inherited. It is the Great Northwest. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-330"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG SRC="images/img-330.jpg" ALT="Indians of the Up-country or _Pays d'en Haut_." BORDER="2" WIDTH="401" HEIGHT="344"> +<H4> +[Illustration: Indians of the Up-country or <I>Pays d'en Haut</I>.] +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="footnote"> +[1] Mention of this man is to be found in Northwest Company manuscripts, +lately sold in the Masson collection of documents to the Canadian +Archives and McGill College Library. It was also my good fortune—while +this book was going to print—to see the entire family collection of +Clark's letters, owned by Mrs. Julia Clark Voorhis of New York. Among +these letters is one to Chaboneau from Clark. In spite of the cordial +relations between the Nor'westers and Lewis and Clark, these fur traders +cannot conceal their fear that this trip presages the end of the fur +trade. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap12"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX +</H3> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +For the very excellent translations of the almost untranslatable +transcripts taken from the Marine Archives of Paris, and forwarded to +me by the Canadian Archives, I am indebted to Mr. R. Roy, of the Marine +Department, Ottawa, the eminent authority on French Canadian +genealogical matters. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Some of the topics in the Appendices are of such a controversial +nature—the whereabouts of the Mascoutins, for instance—that at my +request Mr. Roy made the translation absolutely literal no matter how +incongruous the wording. To those who say Radisson was not on the +Missouri I commend Appendix E, where the tribes of the West are +described. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX A +</H4> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN TO M. COMPORTÉ BY M. CHOUART,<BR> +AT LONDON, THE 29TH APRIL, 1685 +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +SIR, +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have received the two letters with which you have honored me; I have +even received one inclosed that I have not given, for reasons that I +will tell you, God willing, in a few days. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have received your instructions contained in the one and the other, +as to the way I should act, and I should not have failed to execute all +that you order me for the service of our Master, if I had been at full +liberty so to do; you must have no doubt about it, because my +inclination and my duty agree perfectly well. All the advantages that +I am offered did not for a moment cause me to waver, but, in short, +sir, I could not go to Paris, and I shall be happy to go and meet you +by the route you travel. I shall be well pleased to find landed the +people you state will be there; in case they may have the commission +you speak of in your two letters, have it accompanied if you please +with a memorandum of what I shall have to do for the service of our +Master. I know of a case whereby I am sufficiently taught that it is +not safe to undertake too many things, however advantageous they may +be, nor undertaking too little. I am convinced, sir, that having +orders, I will carry them out at the risk of my life, and I flatter +myself that you do not doubt it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There is much likelihood that the men you sent last year are lost. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I should like, sir, to be at the place you desire me to go; be assured +I will perish, or be there as soon as I possibly can; it is saying +enough. I do not answer to the rest of your letter, it is sufficient +that I am addressing a sensible man, who, knowing my heart, will not +doubt that I will keep my word with him, as I believe he will do all he +can for my interests. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I am, with much anxiety to see you, sir, your most humble and most +obedient servant, +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(signed) CHOUART. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I will leave here only on the 25th of next month. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX B +</H4> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN BY M. CHOUART TO<BR> +MRS. DES GROSEILLERS, HIS MOTHER +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +AT LONDON, 11TH APRIL, 1685. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +MY VERY DEAR MOTHER, +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I learn by the letter you have written me, of the 2nd November last, +that my father has returned from France without obtaining anything at +that Court, which made you think of leaving Quebec; my sentiment would +be that you abandon this idea as I am strongly determined to go and be +by you at the first opportunity I get, which shall be, God willing, as +soon as I have taken means to that effect when I have returned from the +North. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I hope to start on this voyage in a month or six weeks at the latest; I +cannot determine on what date I could be near you; my father may know +what difficulties there are. However, I hope to surmount them, and +there is nothing I would not do to that end. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The money I left with my cousin is intended to buy you a house, as I +have had always in mind to do, had not my father opposed it, but now I +will do it so as to give you a chance to get on, and always see you in +the country where I will live. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have been made, here, proposals of marriage, to which I have not +listened, not being here under the rule of my king nor near my parents, +and I would have left this kingdom had I been given the liberty to do +so, but they hold back on me my pay and the price of my merchandise, +and I cannot sail away as orders have been given to arrest me in case I +should prepare to leave. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +What you fear in reference to my money should not give you any +uneasiness on account of the English. I will cause it to be pretty +well known that I never intended to follow the English. I have been +surprised and forced by my uncle's subterfuges to risk this voyage +being unable to escape the English vessels where my uncle made me go +without disclosing his plan, which he has worked out in bringing me +here, but I will not disclose mine either: to abandon this nation. I +am willing that my cousin should pay you the income on my money, until +I return home. M. the earl of Denonville, your governor, will see to +my mother's affairs, as they who render service to the country will not +be forsaken as in the past, and being generous as he is, loyal and +zealous for his country, he will inform the Court what there is to be +done for the benefit of our nation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I am, my dear mother, to my father and to you, +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +most obedient servant,<BR> +(signed) CHOUART. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +And below is written:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +MOTHER, +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I pray you to see on my behalf M. du Lude, and assure him of my very +humble services. I will have the honor of seeing him as soon as I can. +Please do the same with M. Peray and all our good friends. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX C +</H4> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +COUNCIL +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, 8th June, 1704. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +By the indians Kiskacous, Ottawa, Sinagot of the Sable Nation, Hurons, +Saulteurs (Sault Indians), Amikoique (Amikoués), Mississaugas, +Nipissings, Miamis and Wolves, in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post; Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +<I>voyageurs</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The one named FORTY SOLS, (40 half-penny), indian chief of the Huron +nation speaks as much on behalf of the said nation as of all those +present at the meeting. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The French having come, he said:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We ask that all the French be present at this Council so that they +hear and know what we will say to you. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We are well on this land, it is very good, and we are much pleased +with it; listen well, father, we pray you. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"Mrs de Tonty went away last year; she did not return; we see you going +away to-day, father, with your wife, your children and all the +Frenchwomen as well as that of M. Radisson, who is going down with you; +that reveals to us that you abandon us. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We are angry for good and ill-disposed if the women go away. We pray +you to pay attention to this because we could not stop you nor your +young men: we demand that Radisson remains, or at least, that he +returns promptly." +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +BY A NECKLACE (Wampum) +</H4> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We will escort your wife and the other Frenchwomen who intend to go +down to Montreal. Now, mind well what we are asking you. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We readily see that the Governor is a liar, as he does not keep to +what he has promised us; as he has lied to us we will lie to him also, +and we will listen no more to his word. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"What brings that man here (speaking of M. Desnoyers)? We do not know +him and do not understand him; we are ill-disposed. It is two years +since you have been gathering in our peltries, part of which has been +taken down; we will allow nothing to leave until the French come up +with goods." +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +BY ANOTHER NECKLACE +</H4> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"Father, we pray you to send back that man (speaking of M. Desnoyers), +because if he remains here, we do not answer for his safety; our people +have told us that he despises our peltries and only wanted beaver; +where does he want us to get it. We absolutely want him to go; nothing +will leave the house where the trading is done and where the peltries +and bundles are, until the French arrive here with merchandise and they +be allowed to trade. When we came here, the Governor did not tell us +that the merchants would be masters over the merchandise; he lied to +us; we ask that all the Frenchmen trade here; we pray you to write and +tell him what we are saying, and if he does not listen to us, we will +also refuse to accept his word. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"The land is not yours, it is ours, and we will leave it to go where we +like without anybody finding fault. We regret having allowed the +surgeon to leave as we apprehend he will not come back. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We pray you will cause to remain Gauvereau the blacksmith and gunsmith. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"I have nothing more to say, I have spoken for all the nations here +present." +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. de Lamothe had a question put to the Ottawa and the other nations, +if that was their sentiment; they all answered: Yes, and that they were +of one and the same mind. He told them that, seeing they had taken +time to think over what they had just said, he would consider as to +what he had to answer them, and, put them off to the morrow, after +having accepted their necklace. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(Not signed.) +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +COUNCIL +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, the 9th June, 1704. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +By the Indians Kiskacous; Ottawas; Sinagotres, the Sable nation; +Hurons; Sauteux (Sault Ste Marie Indians); Amikoique (Beaver nation); +Mississaugas; Miamis and Wolves in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post, Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +<I>voyageurs</I>. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. de Lamothe addressed all the said nations:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"As you requested me to pay attention to your words, please listen, the +same, to-day. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"I was aware that Mdme. de Tonty's trip to Montreal last year had given +you umbrage, because she did not come back; and the cause of it is her +pregnancy. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"I knew also that my wife's setting out for Montreal as also the other +Frenchwomen was causing you uneasiness, because you believed I was +going to abandon you. It is true she was going away, but it was not +for ever. I showed her your necklace; that her children would miss her +very much and that they begged of her to stay. When she heard of your +grief, she accepted your necklace and she will stay for some time, +because she does not like to refuse her children; the other Frenchwomen +will remain also. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"You spoke ill of the Governor when you said he was a liar. If anyone +told you that he was forsaking you, I will be pleased if you will tell +me who it is. As for me I have no knowledge of it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"M. Desnoyers was present when you offered your necklace, and like me +he heard your statement. He told me you were wrong to complain about +him because he would not take your peltries and that he wanted beaver +only; you are complaining inopportunely seeing that he has not done any +trading. You should tell me who made those reports. But as you are +not glad to see him, he has decided to go back, and as I am going down +to Montreal on good business, he will accompany me, and also M. +Radisson, because the Governor wants him, and he must obey, and we will +arrange so that we come back together. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"You have asked me to write down your speech to the Governor. I will +be the bearer of it. I have not the authority to have the French to +trade here; it is a matter that M. the Governor will settle with M. the +Intendant. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"The Governor did not lie to you because he did not notify you the +first year, that the merchants would be masters of the merchandise, +because it was the King who sent it here then and I could dispose of +it; since then, an order came from the King in favor of the merchants. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"This land is mine, because I am the first one who lighted a fire +thereon, and you all took some to light yours. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"I am very glad that you like this land, and that you find it is good. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"It is of no consequence that the surgeon left, because when one goes +another comes, and the same applies for the gunsmith. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"I have no more to tell you. Here is some tobacco that you may all +smoke together, and that it may give you wisdom until I return and the +Governor sends you his word. Attend to your mother during my absence, +and see that she does not want for provisions, for if you do not take +care of her, on my return I will not give you a drink of brandy. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"M. de Tonty replaces me; I pray you to be on good terms with him." +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +FORTY SOLS, chief of the Hurons, spoke for all the indians:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We remember well, father, of what we said yesterday because you repeat +it to-day. We thank you for having listened to us and granted all we +asked you. We thank the women for not going away, because their +remaining is as if you remained. From to-morrow we will stimulate our +young men to go after provisions for our mother. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"It is three years ago, when in Montreal at the general meeting our +chiefs died, the governor told us to have courage, that he was sorry +for us, that he saw we were very far to come and get goods in Montreal, +and he invited us to come and settle around you, and that he would send +us merchandise at the same price as in Montreal. This worked well for +two years, but goods rose up too much in price the third year. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"The first year you came, we were very happy, but now we are naked, not +even having a bad shirt to put on our back. We would be pleased by the +establishment of several stores here, because if we were refused in +one, we could go to another. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We are very glad of M. Desnoyers' going back because we do not know +him and we fear some of our young men may be ill-disposed. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"We were under the impression the Governor had sold us to the merchants +since they are the masters of the commerce. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"It is true that we took of your fire to light ours but we have waited +two years without anything coming this way so that your land is ours. +I told the same thing to the Governor last year in Montreal. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +"Have courage, father, we will pray God for you during your voyage so +that you may bring back good news." +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(Not signed.) +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX D +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +Cie des Indes +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(Indies Co'y) +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +Renders account to the said company of the death of Mr. Radisson, +receiver at Montreal, of the nomination ad interim of Mr. Gamelin to +fill the vacancy of receiver, of account to render by Mr. Deplessis, +heir of Mr. Radisson to reëstablish price of summer beaver as before +ordinance of the 4th January, 1733. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +AT QUEBEC, THE 25TH OCTOBER, 1735. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +GENTLEMEN, +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have received the letter you did me the honor to send me of the 9th +March last. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. Radisson, your receiver at Montreal, died there the 14th of June and +immediately M. Gamelin, merchant, to whom Messrs La Gorgendière and +Daine had given three years ago, had commissioned to look after your +interests in default or in case of death of M. Radisson, applied to M. +Michel, my sub-delegate to affix the seals on of all your effects, +which was done according to the account rendered you by Messrs. La +Gorgendière and Daine. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It was necessary to fill the vacancy. I have appointed temporarily in +virtue of the authority, you gave, gentlemen, the same M. Gamelin; I +thought I could not have your interests in better hands, as much for +his honesty than his intelligence in regulating his sales and his +receipts. Independently of the knowledge he has of the different +qualities of beaver, I have had the honor to speak to you on this +subject in my preceding letters and to say that the only obstacle I +find to giving him the office of receiver at Montreal was his quality +of merchant outfitter for the upper country, which might render him +suspicious to you because of the returns he gets in beaver. Although I +have a pretty good opinion of him to believe his loyalty proof against +any particular interest, you shall see, gentlemen, by the copy of the +commission I have given him, which is sent you, that it is on condition +either directly or indirectly to do no traffic in the upper country, +and to confine himself either to marine trade or other inland commerce, +to which he has agreed, but nevertheless has represented to me that +being engaged as a partner with M. Lamarque, another merchant, for the +working out of the post named "the Western Sea" and that of the Sioux; +this partnership only terminating in 1737; that he was looking around +to sell his share, but, if this thing was impossible requesting me to +kindly allow him to continue until that term, past which he would cease +all commerce in the upper country. I agreed to this arrangement on +account of his good qualities, and this will not turn to any account of +consequence; whatever, selection you may make, gentlemen, you will not +find a better one in this country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. de La Gorgendière having offered me his son to act as clerk to M. +Gamelin and comptroller in the Montreal office, for the auditing to be +made, without increasing on that score the expenditure of your +administration, I have consented on these conditions; M. Gamelin to +give him 800 livres (shillings) on the commission of one per cent the +company allow the receiver at Montreal, and M. Daine has assured me he +was satisfied with his work. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I will not entertain, you, messieurs, with the discussion of the +account to be rendered by M. Duplessis, M. Radisson's heir, to your +agent, who claims he owes 5 to 6000 livres. Those discussions did not +take place in my presence. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Most of the beaver shipped this year were put up in bundles, and +shortage in cotton cloth for packing prevented shipment of the whole. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The disturbances which have occurred for some years in the upper +country have effectively prevented the Indians from hunting; the post +of the Bay which abounds ordinarily with beaver, produced nothing; +those of Detroit and Michilimakinac, only furnished very little. +Happily the post of the Sioux and of the Western Sea produced near to +100,000 which swelled up the receipt; otherwise it would have been very +middling. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The party commanded by M. Desnoyelles against the Indians Sakis and +Foxes was not as successful as expected on account of the desertion and +retreat of 100 Hurons and Iroquois who left him when at the Kakanons +(Kiskanons of Michilimakinac?) without his being able to hold them, so +that this officer found himself after a long tramp at those Indians' +fort, not only inferior in numbers but also much in want of provisions. +He was under the necessity of returning after a rather sharp skirmish +which took place between some of his men and the enemy. We lost two +Frenchmen and one of our indians; the Foxes and Sakis lost 21 men, +either killed, wounded or captured. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +If the Sakis come back to the Bay, as they pledged themselves to M. +Desnoyelles we are in hopes here that peace will again flourish and +consequently the trade of the upper country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have seen, gentlemen, what you were pleased to say as to reduction in +price on the summer-beaver. I had been assured by reliable persons +that this reduction might become very injurious to your commerce. I +have learned that some of this kind of beaver were carried to the +English who pay two livres (shillings) for one and at a higher price +than you pay over your counters. It was from what you wrote me in +1732, that the hatters could make no use of that beaver, that at your +request I published an ordinance of the 4th January, 1733, reducing the +price of summer-beaver either green (gras) or dry (sec) to ten pence a +pound, on condition that it should be burned. There could be nothing +suspicious in that. But since you now deem that that reduction may be +harmful, as I have also had in mind to invite the indians and even the +French under this pretence to take the good as well as the bad beaver +to the English; I will restore the price of the summer-beaver as it was +before my ordinance. I will not be at a loss for a cause: it is not in +your interest to give a lower price. You run your commerce, gentlemen, +with too much good faith to give rise to suspicion that you wished for +a reduction in price to 10 pence for this kind of beaver, and having it +burned only to procure it yourself at that price and not burn it. +Besides, the quantity received is too small a matter to deserve +consideration. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Beaver hats half worked made in the country.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. the marquis de Beauharnois and I have received the orders of the +King with reference to beaver hats half worked made in Canada. His +Majesty has ordered us to break up the workmen's benches and to prevent +any manufacture of hats. We have made some representations on this +subject, to those made to us, namely by a man named ———, hatter, and +your receiver at Quebec. It is true that the making of beaver hats +half worked and other for export to France could turn out of +consequence in ruining your privilege and the hat establishments in +France. These are the only inconveniences, to my mind, to be feared, +as I do not look upon such, the making of hats for the use of residents +of the country. So that we have satisfied ourselves, until further +orders, to forbid the going, out of the colony, of all kind of hats, as +you will see by the ordinance we have published together, M. the +General and I. If we had been more strict, the three hatters +established in this colony, who know no other business than their +trade, the man ——— amongst others, who follow that calling from +father to son, would have been reduced to begging. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The quantity of hats they will manufacture when export is stopped, +cannot be of any injury to the manufactures of the kingdom and be but +of small matter to your commerce. Moreover, I am aware that these +hatters employ the worst kind of beaver, which they get very cheap, and +your stores at Paris are that much rid of them. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Defects in list of cloth sent.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The cloths you sent this year are of better quality than the precedding +shipment. Messrs La Gorgendiere, Daine and Gamelin have observed on +defects which happen in the lists; they told me they would inform you. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Remittance of 300 livres (shillings) to the Baron de +Longueuil.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have the honor to thank you, gentlemen, for the remittance of 300 +livres you were pleased to grant to M. the Baron of Longueuil, on my +recommendation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is very difficult to prevent the Indians going to Chouaguen; the +brandy that the English give out freely is an invincible attraction. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have heard, the same as you, that some Frenchmen disguised as Indians +had been there; if I can discover some one, you may be sure that I will +deal promptly with them. You may have heard that the man LENOIR, +resident of Montreal, having gone to England three years ago without +leave, I have kept him in prison till he had settled the fine he was +condemned to pay, and which I transferred to the hospitals. I add that +a part of the interest you have in the Indians not going to Chouaguen, +I have another on account of the trading carried on for the benefit of +the King at Niagara and at fort Frontenac which that English post has +ruined. By all means you may rely on my attention to break up English +trade. I fear I may not succeed in this so long as the brandy traffic, +although moderate, will find adversaries among those who govern +consciences. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Foreign trade; Beaver at trade at Labrador.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I will do my best to prevent the beaver which is traded at Labrador and +the other posts in the lower part of the River to be smuggled to France +by ships from Bayonne, St Malo and Marseille. This will be difficult +as we cannot have at those posts any inspector. I will try, however, +to give an ordinance so as to prevent that, which may intimidate some +of those who carry on that commerce. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is true that the commandants of the upper country posts have relaxed +in the sending of the declarations made or to be made by the +<I>voyageurs</I> as to the quantity and quality of the bundles of beaver +they take down to Montreal. M. the General and I have renewed the +necessary orders on this subject so that the commandants shall conform +to them. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Asks for continuation of gratuity received by Mr. Michel, +even to increase it.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. Michel, my subdelegate at Montreal has received the bounty of 500 +livres you have requested your agent to pay to him; he hopes that you +will be pleased to have it continued next year. I have the honor to +pray you to do so, and even augment it, if possible. I can assure you, +gentlemen that he lends himself on all occasions to all that may +concern your commerce. As for myself, I am very flattered by the +opinion you entertain that I have at heart your interests. I always +feel a true satisfaction in renewing you these assurances. +<BR><BR> +I am, respectfully, +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +[Sidenote: Thanks for the coffee sent.] +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +GENTLEMEN, M. de La Gorgendière has delivered to me on your behalf, a +bale of Moka coffee. I am very sensible, gentlemen, to this token of +friendship on your part. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have the honor to thank you, and to assure you that I am very truly +and respectfully, etc. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(signed) HOCQUART. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX E +</H4> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +MEMORANDUM RE CANADA +</H4> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(No locality) 1697 +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +All the discoveries in America were only made step by step and little +by little, especially those of lands held by the French in that part of +the North. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It being certain that during the reign of king Francis I, several of +his subjects, amateurs of shipping and of discoveries, in imitation of +the Portuguese and the Spaniards, made the voyage, where they found the +great cod bank. The quality of birds frequenting this sea where they +always find food, caused them to heave the lead, and bottom was found +and the said great bank. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He got an opinion on the nearest lands, and other curious persons +desired to go farther, and discovered Cape Breton, Virginia and +Florida. Some even inhabited and took possession of the divers places, +abandoned since, through misunderstanding of the commanders and their +poor skill in knowing how to keep on good terms with the indians of +those countries, who, good natured all at the beginning, could not +suffer the rigor with which it was wanted to subjugate them, so that +after a short occupation, they left to return to Europe. And since, +the Spaniards and the English successfully have taken possession of the +land and all the coasts that the said English have kept until this day +to much advantage, so that Frenchmen who have returned since have been +obliged to settle at Cape Breton and Acadia. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +About the year 1540, the said Cape Breton was fortified by Jacques +Carrier, captain of St Malo, who afterward entered the river St. +Lawrence up to 7 or 8 leagues above Quebec, where desiring to know +more, the season also being too far advanced he stopped off to winter +at a small river which bears his name and which forms the boundary of +M. de Becancourt's land whom he knew; he made sociable a number of +Indians who came aboard his ship and brought back beaver pretty +abundantly. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Since, he made another voyage with Saintonge men which did not prevent +several other ships to go after the said beaver; men from Dieppe, +Brittany and La Rochelle, some with a passport and others by fraud and +piracy, especially the latter, the Civil war having carried away +persons out of dutifulness, the Admiralty and the Marine being then +held in very little consideration, which lasted a long time. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +However, I believe for having heard it said, that the lands after new +discoveries were given since to M. Chabot or to M. Ventadour, where a +certain gentleman from Saintonge named M. du Champlain, had very free +admittance and who may have mingled with those of his country who had +navigated with Carrier and had given him a longing to see that of which +he had only heard speak. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He was a proper man for such a scheme; a great courage, wisdom, +sensible, pious, fair and of great experience; a robust body which +would render him indefatigable and capable to resist hunger, cold and +heat. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +This gentleman then solicited permission to come to Canada and obtained +it. His small estate and his friends supplied him with a medium sized +vessel for the passage. This new commandant or governor pitied much +the Indians and had the satisfaction at his arrival to see that he was +much feared and loved by them. He took memoranda through his +interpreter of their wars, their mode of living and of their interests. +At that time they were numerous and proud of the great advantages they +had over the Iroquois, their enemy. With this information he recrossed +to France; gave an account of his voyage, and was so charmed with the +land, the climate and of the good which would result from a permanent +establishment that he persuaded his wife to accompany him. His example +induced missionaries of St. François and some parisian families to +follow him. He was granted a commission or governor's provisions to +take his living from the country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He erected a palissade fort at the place now occupied by the fort St +Louis of Quebec. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To please the indians he went with them and three Frenchmen only, +warring in the Iroquois country, which has no doubt given rise to our +quarrel with this nation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Commerce was then in the hands of the Rochelois (?) who supplied +some provisions to the said M. de Champlain, a man without interest and +disposed to be content with little. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He returns to France in the interests of the country and took back +Madam his wife who died in a Ursuline convent, at Saintes, I believe, +and he at Quebec, after having worked hard there, with little help +because of the misfortunes of France. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. the Cardinal of Richelieu have inspired France with confidence by +the humiliation of the Rochelois (?) wanted to take care of the marine +and formed at that time, about 1626 or 1627 what was then called the +"Society of One Hundred," in which joined persons of all +qualifications, and also merchants from Dieppe and Rouen. Dieppe was +then reputed for good navigators and for navigation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The said M. the Cardinal got granted to the said company the islands of +St Christophe, newly discovered and all the lands of Canada. The +Company composed of divers states did not take long to disjoin, and of +this great Company several were formed by themselves, the ones +concerning themselves about the Isles and the others about Canada, +where they were also divided up in a Company of Miscou, which is an +island of the Bay in the lower part of the River, where all the Indians +meet, and a Company of Tadoussac or Quebec. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Basques, Rochelois, Bretons, and Normans, who during the disorders +of the war had commenced secretly on the River, crossed their commerce +much by the continuation of their runs without passport. Sometimes on +pretext of cod or whale fishing, notwithstanding the interdiction of +decrees, the gain made them risk everything, as the two sides of the +river were all settled and many more came down from inland. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Those Companies for being badly served on account of inexperience and +through poor economy, as will happen at the beginning of all affairs, +were put to large expenses. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The English had already seized on Boston abandoned by the French after +their new discovery; beaver and elk peltry were much sought after and +at a very high price in Europe; they could be had for a needle, a +hawk-bell or a tin looking-glass, a marked copper coin. Our possession +was there very well-off. The English who made war to us in France, +also made it in Canada, and began to take the fleet about Isle Percée, +as it was ascending to Quebec. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +As four or five vessels came every year loaded with goods for the +Indians, it was at that time quantity of peas, plums, raisins, figs and +others and provisions for M. de Champlain; a garrison of 15 or 20 men; +a store in the lower town where the clerks of the Company lived with 10 +or 12 families already used to the country. This succor failing, much +hardship was endured in a country which then produced nothing by +itself, so that the English presenting themselves the next year with +their fleet, surrender was obligatory; the governor and the Recollets +crossed over to France and the families were treated honestly enough. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Happily in 1628 or 1629, France made it up with England and the treaty +gave back Canada to the French, when M. de Champlain, returned and died +some years later. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Those of the Company of 100, who were persons of dignity and +consideration, living in Paris, thought fit to leave the care and +benefits of commerce for Canada with the Rouen and Dieppe merchants, +with whom joined a few from Paris. They were charged with the payment +of the governor's appointments, to furnish him with provisions and +subsistence and to keep up the garrisons of Quebec and Three-Rivers +where there was also a post on account of the large number of Indians +calling; to furnish the things necessary for the war; to pay themselves +off the product and give account of the surplus to the directors of the +Company who had an office at Paris. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It has been said that Dieppe and Rouen benefitted and that Paris +suffered and was disgusted. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To M. de Champlain succeeded M. de Montmagny, very wise and very +dignified; knight of Malta; relative of M. de Poinsy, who commanded at +the Island of St Christophe where the said M. de Montmagny died after +leaving Canada after a sojourn of 14 or 15 years, loved and cherished +by the French and the natives—we say the French, although the +complaints made against him by the principals were the cause of his +sorrow and he resigned voluntarily. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is to be remarked that all the commerce was done at Rouen to go out +through Dieppe on the hearsay and the fine connections that the Jesuit +Fathers who had taken the Recollets' place, took great care to have +printed and distributed every year. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Canada was in vogue and several families from Normandy and the Perche +took sail to come and reside in it; there were nobles, the most of them +poor, we might say, who found out from the first, that M. de Montmagny +was too disinterested to be willing to consider the change they desired +for their advantage. They intrigued against him five or six families +without the participation of the others, got leave from him to go to +France to ask for favors and there had one of themselves as governor; +obtained liberty in the beaver trade, which until then had been +strictly forbidden to the inhabitants who had been reserved the fruits +of the country to advance the culture of the land such as pease, Indian +corn, and wheat bread. That was the first title of the inhabitants to +trade with the indians. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To arrive at that end they promised to pay annually 1000 beaver to the +Paris office for its seignorial right which it did not receive through +its attention and management of its affairs. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +They got permission to form a Board from their principal men, to +transact with the governor all matters in the country for peace, for +war, the settlement of accounts of their society or little republic, +and also sitting on cases concerning interests of private individuals. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It was then that to keep up this sham republic or society, a tax of +one-fourth was imposed on the export of beaver. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +By these means the authority of the Company and its store were ruined +and the whole was turning to the advantage of those four or six +families, the others, either poor or slighted by the authority of M. +D'Ailleboust, their governor. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +On this footing it was not hard for them to find large credit at La +Rochelle, because loans were made in the name of the Community, +although it consisted only of these four or six families; which from +their being poor found themselves in large managements enlarged their +household, ran into expense, that of their vessels and shipments was +excessive and the wealth derived from the beaver was to pay all. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Their bad management altered their credit and brought them to agree, +after several years' enjoyment so as not to pay La Rochelle, to take +their ships to Hâvre-de-Grace, where, on arrival they sold to Messrs +Lick and Tabac; this perfidy which they excused because of the large +interest taken from them, alarmed La Rochelle who complained to Paris, +and after much pressing a trustee was appointed to give bonds in the +name of the society for large sums yet due to the city of La Rochelle. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Their vessels all bore off to Normandy; they took on their cargoes +there in part, and part at La Rochelle, the trade having been allowed +those two places, because Rouen and Dieppe had several persons on the +roll of the Company and obligation was due La Rochelle for having +loaned property. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The governor and the families addressed reproaches to each other, and +the King being pleased to listen to them, had the kindness to appoint +from the body of the company persons of first dignity to give attention +to what was going on in this colony, who were called Commissioners; +they were Messrs de Morangis, de la Marguerid, Verthamont and Chame, +and since, Messrs de Lamoignon, de Boucherat and de Lauzon, the latter +also of the body of the Company offered to pass over to this country to +arrange the difficulties, and he asked for its government, which was +accorded him. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He embarked at La Rochelle because of the obligation of the creditors +of that city to treat him gently; Rouen did not care much. He was a +literary man; he made friends with the R. F. Jesuits, and created a new +council in virtue of the powers he had brought, rebuke the one and the +other place, even the inhabitants, in forbidding them to barter in what +was called the limits of Tadoussac, which he bounded for a particular +lease as a security for his payment and of what has always since been +called the offices of the country or the state of the 33,000 livres; +the emoluments of the Councillors, the garrison, the Jesuits, the +Parish, the Ursulines, the Hote-Dieu, etc. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The pretext given was that the Iroquois having burned and ruined the +Hurons or Ottawa, the tax of one-fourth did not produce enough to meet +those demands, and because Tadoussac also was not sufficient to meet +all the expenditure contemplated to give war to the Iroquois, he it was +also who began in not paying the thousand weight in beaver owing for +seignorial right to the Company who was irritated and blamed his +conduct, and after the lapse of some years his friends write him they +could not longer shield him he anticipated his recall in returning to +France, where he has since served as sub-dean of the Council, residing +at the cloister of Notre-Dame with his son, canon at the said church. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I only saw him two years in Canada where he was hardly liked, by reason +of the little care he took to keep up his rank, without servant, living +on pork and peas like an artisan or a peasant. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +However, having decided to go back, for a second time he threw open the +Tadoussac trade, by an order of his Council. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. de Lamoignon, the first president, got named to replace him, M. +D'Argenson, young man of 30 to 32 years steady as could be, who +remained four or five years to the satisfaction of everybody; he kept +up the Council as it is intended for the security of his emoluments and +of the garrison, selected twelve of the most notable persons to whom he +gave the faculty of trading at Tadoussac and all the sureties to be +wished for the administration and maintenance. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +He had the misfortune to fall out with the Jesuit Fathers, and they, +with messieurs de Mont Royal, of St Sulpice who had sent Mr the abbey +de Queysac, in the hope of making a bishop of him; the former wishing +to have one of their nomination presented to the Queen-mother of the +reigning King, whom God preserve, M. de Laval, to-day elder and first +bishop, who, very rigid, not only backed the Jesuits against the +governor in all difficulties but specially in the matter of the liquor +traffic with the indians. Although (D'Argenson) a much God-fearing-man +he had his private opinions, and this offended him; he asked M. de +Lamoignon for his recall, which was done in 1661, when M. d'Avaugour +came out. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It was in 1660 that the Office in Paris, at the request of the +governor, of the Local council and on the advice of Messrs de +Lamoignon, Chame and other commissioners made an agreement with the +Rouen merchants to supply the inhabitants with all goods they would +require with 60% profit on dry goods and 100% on liquors, freight paid. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It was pretended that the country was not safely secured by ships of +private parties, and that when they arrived alone by unforeseen +accidents, they happened unexpectedly, to the ruin of the country; as +well as the beaver fallen to a low price and which was restored only at +the marriage of the king should keep up. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The creditors then pressing payment of their claims, a decree ordered +that of the 60%, 10% should be taken for the payment of debts which +were fixed at 10,000 livres at the rate of the consumption of the time +and of which the Company of Normandy took charge. The country was +favorable enough to this treaty because they were well served, but when +the treaty arrived at first, the bishop who was jealous because he had +not been consulted and that some little gratification had been given to +facilitate matters had it opposed by some of the inhabitants and by M. +D'Avaugour, governor in the place of the said D'Argenson. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Society of Normandy consented to the breaking off of the treaty on +receiving a minute account and being paid some compensation, as to +which they had no satisfaction because of the changes, for M. +D'Avaugour, like the others, fell out with the Bishop who went to +France and had him revoked, presenting in his stead M. de Mezy, a +Norman gentleman who did nothing better than to overdo all the +difficulties arising on the question of the Bishop and the Governor's +powers. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The beaver dropped down, as soon, to a low price, and there was a +difference by half when the King in 1664 formed the Company of the West +Indies, which alone, to the exclusion of all others, had to supply the +country with merchandise and receive also all the beaver; in 1669, came +M. de Tracy, de Courcelles and Talon; the latter did not want any +Company and employed all kinds of ways to ruin the one he found +established. He gave to understand to M. Colbert that this country was +too big to be bounded; that there should come out of it fleets and +armies; his plans appeared too broad, still he met with no +contradiction at first, on the contrary he was lauded, which moved him +to establish a large trade and put out that of the company, which +through bad success in its affairs at the Isles, was relaxing enough of +itself in all sorts of undertakings. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. Talon desiring to bring together the government and the +superintendence was spending on a large scale to make friends and +therefore there was not a merchant when the Company quit who could +transact any business in his presence; he gets his goods free of dues, +freight and insurance; he also refused to pay the import tax on his +wines, liquors and tobacco. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Finally his friends or enemies told him aloud that it was of profits of +his commerce that the King would be enriched. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +They fell out, M. de Courcelles and he; their misunderstanding forced +the first to ask for his discharge. M. de Frontenac, who succeeded him +also complained and I believe he returned to France without his congé +whence he never came back although he had promised so to all his +friends. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +You are aware as well as and perhaps better than I of the disputes of +M. de Frontenac and M. du Chesneau. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +And that is all I have been told for my satisfaction of what occurred +previous to 1655 when I came here to attend to the affairs of the Rouen +Company. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have also learned at the time of my arrival that properly speaking, +though there were a very large number of Indians, known under divers +names, which they bear with reference to certain action that their +chiefs had performed or with reference to lakes, rivers, lands or +mountains which they inhabit, or sometimes to animals stocking their +rivers and forests, nevertheless they could all be comprised under two +mother languages, to wit: the Huron and the Algonquin. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +At that period, I was told, the Huron was the most spread over men and +territory, and at present, I believe, that the Algonquin can well be +compared to it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To note, that all the Indians of the Algonquin language are stationed +and occupy land that we call land of the North on account of the River +which divides the country into two parts, and where they all live by +fishing and hunting. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +As well as the Indians of the Huron language who inhabit land to the +South, where they till the land and winter wheat, horse-beans, pease, +and other similar seeds to subsist; they are sedentary and the +Algonquin follow fish and game. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +However, this nation has always passed for the noblest, proudest and +hardest to manage when prosperous. When the French came here the true +Algonquin owned land from Tadoussac to Quebec, and I have always +thought they were issued from the Saguenay. It was a tradition that +they had expelled the Iroquois from the said place of Quebec and +neighborhood where they once lived; we were shown the sites of their +villages and towns covered by trees of a fresh growth, and now that the +lands are of value through cultivation, the farmers find thereon tools, +axes and knives as they were used to make them. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +We must believe that the said Algonquin were really masters over the +said Iroquois, because they obliged them to move away so far. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Nobody could tell me anything certain about the origin of their war but +it was of a more cruel nature between these two nations than between +the said Iroquois and Hurons, who have the same language or nearly so. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is only known that the Iroquois commenced first to burn, importuned +by their enemies who came to break their heads whilst at work in their +wilderness; they imagined that such cruel treatment would give them +relaxation, and since, all the nations of this continent have used +fire, with the exception of the Abenakis and other tribes of Virginia. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +These Iroquois having had the best of the fight and reduced the +Algonquins since our discovery of this country, principally because +their pride giving us apprehension about their large number, they would +not arm themselves until a long time after the Dutch had armed the +Iroquois, made war and ruined all the other nations who were not nearly +so warlike as the Algonquin, and after the war, diseases came on that +killed those remaining; some have scattered in the woods, but in +comparison to what I have seen on my arrival, one might say that there +are no more men in this country outside of the fastnesses of the +forests recently discovered. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Hurons before their defeat by the Iroquois had, through the hope of +their conversion obliged the Jesuits to establish with them a strong +mission, and as from time to time it was necessary to carry to them +necessities of life, the governors began to allow some of their +servants to run up there every three or four years, from where they +brought that good green (gras) Huron beaver that the hatters seek for +so much. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Sometimes this was kept up; sometimes no one offered for the voyage +there being then so little greediness it is true that the Iroquois were +so feared; M. de Lauson was the only one to send two individuals in +1656 who each secured 14 to 15,000 livres and came back with an indian +fleet worth 100,000 crowns. However, M. D'Argenson who succeeded him +and was five years in the country sent nobody neither did Messrs +Avaugour and de Mezy. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It was consequently after the arrival of M. Talon that under pretext of +discovery, and of finding copper mines, he alone became director of +those voyages, for he obliged M. de Courcelles to sign him congés which +he got worked, but on a dispute between the workers he handled some +himself, of which I remember. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +You know the number and the regulations given under the first +administration of M. the Earl of Frontenac. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is certain that it is the holders of congés who look after and bring +down the beaver, and, can it be said that it is wrong to have an +abundance of goods. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The French and the Indians have come down this year; the receipts of +the office must total up 200 millions or thereabouts, which judging +from your letter, will surprise those gentlemen very much. The clerks +have rejected it as much as they liked; I am told that they admitted +somewhere about six thousands of muscovy; during our administration +there were 28 or 30 thousands received, which is a large difference +without taking into account other qualities, and all this does not give +the French much trouble, and at the most for the year we were not +informed. I have given my sentiments to the meeting, and in particular +to M. de Frontenac and to M. de Champigny. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +We should be agreeable to our Prince's wishes who is doing so much good +to this country: his tenants who must supply him in such troubled +times, lose, and it is proper that people in Canada contribute +something to compensate them by freely agreeing to a pretty rich +receipt on their commodity but what resource in regard to the indian so +interested that everything moves with him, through necessity; they are +asked and sought after to receive English goods, infinitely better than +ours, at a cost half as low and to pay their beaver very high. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +This commercial communication gives them peace with their enemies and +liberty to hunt, and consequently to live in abundance instead of their +living at present with great hardship. Should we not say that it +requires a great affection not to break away in the face of such strong +attractions; if we lose them once we lose them for ever, that it is +certain, and from friends they become our enemies; thus we lose not +only the beaver but the colony, and absolutely no more cattle, no more +grains, no more fishing. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The colony with all the forces of the Kingdom cannot resist the Indians +when they have the English or other Europeans to supply them with +ammunitions of war, which leads me to the query: what is the beaver +worth to the English that they seek to get it by all means? +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +If also the rumors set agoing are true the farmers-general would not +sell a considerable part to the Danes at a very high price, should they +not have had somebody in their employ who understands and knows that +article well, it appears to me that the thing is worth while. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +All the same, people are asking why they want to sell so dear, what +costs them so little, for taking one and the other, that going out this +year should not cost them more than 50s (<I>sous</I>), the entries, +Tadoussac, and the tax of one fourth, does it not pay the lease with +profit. This is in everybody's mind, and everyone looks at it as he +fancies. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I was of opinion to arrange the receipts on a basis that these +gentlemen got M. Benac to offer, so as to avoid the difficulties on the +qualities, and this opinion served to examine the loss this proposition +would bring to the country in the general receipt. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have no other interest than the Prince's service, and to please these +gentlemen I should like to know, heartily, of some expedient, because +it is absolutely necessary to find one to satisfy the Indian; M. the +Earl of Frontenac is under a delusion: I may say it, they will give us +the goby, and after that all shall be lost, I am not sure even, if they +would not repeat the Sicilian Vespers, to show their good will, and +that they never want to make it up. I am so isolated that I do not say +anything about it, as I am afraid for myself, but I know well that it +is Indian's nature to betray, and that our affairs are not at all good +in the upper country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To a great evil great remedy. I had said to M. de Frontenac that the +25 per cent could be abolished and make it up on something else, as it +is a question of saving the country, but he did not deem fit of +anything being said about it. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I also told him and M. de Champigny that we might treat with a Dutchman +to bring on a clearance English and Dutch goods which are much thought +of by our indians for their good quality and their price, that this +vessel would not go up the river but stay below at a stated place, +where we could go for his goods, and give him beaver for his rightful +lading. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The company should have the control of these merchandise, so as to sell +them to the indians on the base of a tariff, so as to prevent the +greediness of the <I>voyageurs</I> which contributes very much to the +discontent of the natives, because at first the French only went to the +Hurons and since to Michilimakinac where they sold to the Indians of +the locality, who then went to exchange with other indians in distant +woods, lands and rivers, but now the said Frenchmen holding permits to +have a larger gain pass over all the Ottawas and Indians of +Michilimakinac to go themselves and find the most distant tribes which +displeased the former very much. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +This has led to fine discoveries and four or five hundred young men of +Canada's best men are employed at this business. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Through them we have become acquainted with several Indian's names we +knew not, and 4 and 500 leagues farther away, there are other indians +unknown to us. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Down the Gulf in French Acadia, we have always known the Abenakis and +Micmacs. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +On the north shore of the River, from Seven islands up we have always +known the Papinachois, Montagnais, Poissons Blancs, (White Fish), +(these being in what is called limits of Tadoussac), Mistassinis, +Algonquins. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +AT QUEBEC +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There are Hurons, remains of the ancient Hurons, defeated by the +Iroquois, in Lake Huron. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There is also south of the Chaudière (River), five leagues from Quebec, +a large village of Christian Abenakis. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Hurons & Abenakis are under the Jesuit Fathers. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +These Hurons have staid at Quebec so as to pray God more conveniently +and without fear of the Iroquois. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Abenakis pray God with more fervor than any Indians of these +countries. I have seen and been twice with them when warring; they +must have faith to believe as they do and their exactitude to live well +according to principles of our religion. Blessed be God! They are +very good men at war and those who have give and still give so much +trouble to the Bostoners. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +AT THREE-RIVERS +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Wolves and Algonquins both sides of the river. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +AT MONTROYAL OR VILLE-MARIE +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There are Iroquois of the five nations who have left their home to pray +(everyone is free to believe) but it is certain that threefourths have +no other motive nor interest to stay with us than to pray. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There are, then, Senecas, Mohawks, Cayugas, Wyandotts, Oneida partly on +the mountain of Mont-Royal under the direction of Messrs of St Sulpice, +and partly at the Sault (Recollet) south side, that is to say, above +the rapids, under the R. F. Jesuits, whose mission is larger than St +Sulpice's. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +150 leagues from Mont Royal the Grand River leading to the Ottawas; to +the north are the Temiscamingues, Abitiby, Outanloubys, who speak +Algonquin. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +At lake Nepissing, the Nipissiniens, Algonquin language, always going +up the Grand River. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +In lake Huron, 200 leagues from Montreal, the Mississagues and +Amikoués: Algonquins. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +At Michilimackinac, the Negoaschendaching or people of the Sable, +Ottawas, Linage Kikacons or Cut Tail, the men from Forked Lake +Onnasaccoctois, the Hurons, in all 1000 men or thereabouts half Huron +and half Algonquin language. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +In the Michigan or lake Illinois, north side, the Noquets, Algonquins, +Malomini (Menomeenee), or men of the Folle-Avoine: different language. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +SOUTH OF PUANTS (GREEN) BAY +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Wanebagoes otherwise Puans, because of the name of the Bay; +language different from the two others. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Sakis, 3 leagues from the Bay, and Pottewatamis, about 200 warriors. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Towards lake Illinois, on River St Joseph, the Miamis or men of the +Crane who have three different languages, though they live together. +United they would form about 600 men. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Above the Bay, on Fox river, the Ottagamis, the Mascoutins and the +Kicapoos: all together 1200 men. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +At Maramegue river where is situated Nicholas Perrot's post, are some +more Miamis numbering five to six hundred; always the same language. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The Illinois midway on the Illinois river making 5 to 6 different +villages, making in all 2000 men. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +We traffic with all these nations who are all at war with the Iroquois. +In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very numerous with +whom we have no commerce and who are trading yet with nobody. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Above Missoury river which is of the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins Nadoessioux, with whom +we trade, and who are numerous. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Sixty leagues above the missisipi and St Anthony of Padua Fall, there +is lake Issaquy otherwise lake of Buade, where there are 23 villages of +Sioux Nadoessioux who are called Issaquy, and beyond lake Oettatous, +lower down the auctoustous, who are Sioux, and could muster together +4000 warriors. Because of their remoteness they only know the Iroquois +from what they heard the French say. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +In lake Superior, south side are the saulteurs who are called Ouchijoe +(objibway), Macomili, Ouxcinacomigo, Mixmac and living at Chagoumigon, +it is the name of the country, the Malanas or men of the Cat-fish; 60 +men; always the Algonquin language. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Michipicoten, name of the land; the Machacoutiby and Opendachiliny, +otherwise Dung-heads; lands' men; algonquin language. The Picy is the +name of a land of men, way inland, who come to trade. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Bagoasche, also name of a place of men of same nation who come also to +trade 200 and 300 men. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Osepisagny river being discharge of lake Asemipigon; sometimes the +indians of the lake come to trade; they are called Kristinos and the +nation of the Great Rat. These men are Algonquins, numbering more than +2000, and also go to trade with the English of the north. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +There are too the Chichigoe who come sometimes to us, sometimes north +to the English. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Towards West-Northwest, it is nations called Fir-trees; numerous; all +their traffic is with the English. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +All those north nations are rovers, as was said, living on fish and +game or wild-oats which is abundant on the shores of their lakes and +rivers. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +In lake Ontario, south side, the five Iroquois nations; our enemies; +about 1200 warriors live on indian corn and by hunting. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +We can say, that, of all the Indians they are the most cruel during +war, as during peace they are the most humane, hospitable, and +sociable; they are sensible at their meetings, and their behaviour +resembles much to the manners of republics of Europe. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Lake Ontario has 200 leagues in circumference. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Lake Erie above Niagara 250 leagues; lakes Huron and Michigan joined +552 leagues: to have access to these three lakes by boat, there is only +the portage of Niagara, of two leagues, above the said lake Ontario. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +All those who have been through those lakes say they are terrestrial +paradises for abundance of venison, game, fishing, and good quality of +the land. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +From the said lakes to go to lake Superior there is only one portage of +15 (?). The said lake is 500 leagues long in a straight line, from +point to point, without going around coves nor the bays of Michipicoten +and Kaministiquia. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +To go from lake Superior to lake Asemipigon there is only 15 leagues to +travel, in which happen seven portages averaging 3 good leagues; the +said lake has a circumference of 280 leagues. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +From lake Huron to lake Nipissing there is the river called French +River, 25 leagues long; there are 3 portages; the said lake has 60 to +80 leagues of circumference. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Lake Assiniboel is larger than lake Superior, and an infinity of +others, lesser and greater have to be discovered, for which I approve +of M. the Marquis of Denonville's saying, often repeated:—that the +King of France, our monarch was not high lord enough to open up such a +vast country, as we are only beginning to enter on the confines of the +immensity of such a great country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The road to enter it is by the Grand River and lake Ontario by Niagara, +which should be easy in peaceful times in establishing families at +Niagara for the portage, and building boats on Lake Erie. I did not +find that a difficult thing, and I want to do it under M. the Marquis +of Denonville, who did not care, so soon as he perceived that his war +expedition had not succeeded. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +I have given you in this memorandum the names of the natives known to +us and with whom our wood rovers (coureurs de bois) have traded; my +information comes from some of the most experienced. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The surplus of the memorandum will serve to inform you that prior to M. +de Tracy, de Courcelle and Talon's arrival, nothing was regulated but +by the governor's will, although there was a Board; as they were his +appointments and that by appearances, only his creatures got in, he was +the absolute master of it and which was the cause that the Colony and +the inhabitants suffered very much at the beginning. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +M. de Tracy on his arrival by virtue of his commission dismissed the +Board and the Councillors, to appoint another one with members chosen +by himself and the Bishop, which existed until the 2nd and 3rd year of +M. de Frontenac's reign, who had them granted at Court, provisions by a +decree for the establishment of the Council. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +It is only from that time that the King having given the country over +to the gentlemen of the Co'y of West Indies, the tax of one fourth and +the Tadoussac trade were looked upon as belonging to the Company, and +since to the King, because M. Talon, who crippled as much as he could, +this company dare not touch to these two items of the Domain, of which +the enjoyment remained to them until cessation of their lease. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +So, it was in favor of this company that all the regulations were +granted in reference to the limits and working out of Tadoussac as well +as to prevent cheating on the beaver tax. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +Tadoussac is leased to six gentlemen for the sum of —— yearly; I took +shares for one fourth, as it was an occasion to dispose of some goods +and a profit to everyone of at most 20 —— yearly. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +About beavers there is no fraud to be feared, everybody preferring to +get letters of exchange to avoid the great difficulties on going out, +the entry and sale in France, and of large premiums for the risks; in a +word, no one defrauds nor thinks of it. The office is not large enough +to receive all the beaver. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +The ships came in very late; I could not get M. Dumenu the secretary to +the Board to send you the regulations you ask for the beaver trade; you +shall have them, next year, if it pleases God. They contain +prohibition to embark from France under a penalty of 3000 livres' fine, +confiscation of the goods, even of the ships; however, under the treaty +of Normandy, I had a Dieppe captain seized for about 200 crowns worth +of beaver, and the Council here confiscated the vessel, and imposed a +fine of 1500 livres, on which the captain appealed to France, and he +obtained at the King's Council, replevin on his ship and the fine was +reduced to 30 livres. +</P> + +<P CLASS="appendix"> +As prior to M. Talon nobody sent traders in the woods as explained in +this memorandum there was not to my knowledge any regulation as to the +said woods before the decree of 1675. On the contrary I remember that +those two individuals under M. de Lauzon's government who brought in +each for 14. or 15,000 livres applied to me to be exempted from the tax +of one fourth, because, they said we were obliged to them for having +brought down a fleet which enriched the country. +</P> + +<P CLASS="append1"> +(Not signed.) +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap13"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +INDEX +</H3> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +[Transcriber's note: Many index entries contain references like the +"9 n." in the "Arms" entry. The "n." appears to refer to the footnote(s) +that were on their host pages in the original book. In this e-book, +all footnotes have been moved to the end of their respective chapters.] +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +A +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Abenaki Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Abitiby Indians, the, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Acadia, Indian tribes located in, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Albanel, Charles, Jesuit missionary, 141; overland trip of, to Hudson +Bay, 143-146; at King Charles Fort, 147. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Albany (Orange), 32; Iroquois freebooting expedition against, 36-38; +Radisson's escape to, 39-41. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Algonquin Indian, murder of Mohawk hunters by a, 20. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Algonquin Indians, Radisson and Groseillers travel to the West with, +73-79; territory of the, 359; wars with the Iroquois, 359-360; tribes +of, on Lake Huron, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Allemand, Pierre, companion of Radisson, 154. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Allouez, Père Claude, 142. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Amsterdam, Radisson's early visit to, 42. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Arctic Ocean, Hearne's overland trip to, 257-265; arrival at, 265-266; +Mackenzie's trip of exploration to, 281-286. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Arms, supplied to Mohawks by Dutch, 9 n.; desire for, cause of Sioux' +friendliness to Radisson, 120, 122. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Assiniboine Indians, origin of name, 10 n., 85; Radisson learns of, +from prairie tribes, 85; defence of the younger Groseillers by, 184; De +la Vérendrye meets the, 218-221; accompany De la Vérendrye to the +Mandans, 223-227; Saint-Pierre's encounter with, 237. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Assiniboine River, 218, 219, 221-222. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Athabasca country, Hearne explores the, 268-269. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Athabasca Lake; Hearne's arrival at, 268-269. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Athabasca River, 277. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Athabascan tribes, Matonabbee and the, 249. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Aulneau, Father, 210, 211; killed by Indians, 214. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +B +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Baptism of Indian children by Radisson and Groseillers, 92. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Barren lands, region of "Little Sticks," 253-254, 259-260. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bath of purification, Indian, 14, 268. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bay of the North. <I>See</I> Hudson Bay. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bayly, Charles, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 140; in Canada, +140-142; encounter with the Jesuit Albanel, 141-142, 147; accusations +against Radisson and Groseillers, 147-148. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bear, Lewis's experience with a, 318. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Beauharnois, Charles de, governor of New France, 201, 203, 235. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Beaux Hommes</I>, Crow Indians, 232. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Beckworth, prisoner among Missouri Indians, 33. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Belmont, Abbé, cited, 5 n., 98 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bering, Vitus, 195. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bigot, intendant of New France, 236. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bird, prisoner of the Blackfeet, 33. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bird's egg moon, the (June), 279. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Blackbird, Omaha chief, grave of, 311. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bochart, governor of Three Rivers. <I>See</I> Duplessis-Kerbodot. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Boësme, Louis, 70. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Boissons</I>, drinking matches, 280. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Boston, Radisson and Groseillers in, 136. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bourassa, <I>voyageur</I>, 213. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bourdon, Jean, explorations by, 102, 134 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bow Indians, the, 232-233. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bridgar, John, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 166, 169, 171, 173, +174, 175, 180. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Brower, J. V., cited, 88 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Bryce, Dr. George, 6 n., 88 n., 187 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Buffalo-hunts, Sioux, 92 n., 124. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Button, Sir Thomas, explorations of, 134 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +C +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cadieux, exploit and death of, 197-198. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cameahwait, Snake Indian chief, 324-326. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cannibalism among Indians, 24, 77. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cannibals of the Barren Lands, 255. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cape Breton, discovery and fortification of, 350. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Caribou, Radisson's remarks on, 127. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Caribou herds in Barren Lands, 255; Indian method of hunting, 259. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Carr, George, letter from, to Lord Darlington, 136 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Carr, Sir Robert, urges Radisson to renounce France, 136. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Carrier, Jacques, 71, 193, 350-351. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cartwright, Sir George, Radisson and Groseillers sail with, 136-137; +shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Catlin, cited, 14 n., 226. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cayuga Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chaboneau, guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 326, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chame, M., commissioner of Company of Normandy, 355, 357. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Champlain, governor in Canada, 351-353. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Charlevoix, mission of, 202. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chichigoe tribe of Indians, the, 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chinook Indians, Lewis and Clark friends with, 328. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chipewyans, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Hearne's journey +with, 257-263; massacre of Eskimo by, 263-265. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chouart, M., letters of, 335-337. <I>See</I> Groseillers, Jean Baptiste. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Chouart, Médard. See Groseillers, Médard Chouart. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Chronique Trifluvienne</I>, Sulte's, 4 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Clark, William, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 308-309; exploration of +Yellowstone River by, 329; hero-qualities of, 332-333. <I>See</I> Lewis. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Clatsop Indians, Lewis and Clark among the, 328. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Clearwater River, Lewis and Clark on the, 327. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Coal, use of, by Indians, 89. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Colbert, Radisson pardoned and commissioned by, 148; withholds +advancement from Radisson, 152; summons Radisson and Groseillers to +France, 176-177; death of, 177. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Colleton, Sir Peter, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Colter, frontiersman with Lewis and Clark, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Columbia River, Lewis and Clark travel down the, 327. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of Miscou, the, 352. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of Normandy, the, 354-357. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of the North, the, 151, 154, 175, 176. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of One Hundred Associates, the, 133, 352, 353. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of Tadoussac, the, 352. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Company of the West Indies, the, 133, 153; account of formation of, 357. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Comporté, M., letter to, from M. Chouart, 335-336. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Coppermine River ("Far-Off-Metal River"), 245, 249, 252, 262, 267. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Copper mines, Radisson receives reports of, 112, 124; discovery of, by +Hearne, 267. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Council Bluffs, origin of name, 311. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Council pipe, smoking the, 16, 29. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Couture, explorations of, 103, 129-130. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Couture (the younger), 143. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Cree Indians, first reports of, 69, 85; Radisson's second visit to, +112-113, 116; wintering in a settlement of, 117; a famine among, +118-119; De la Vérendrye assisted by, 206-208. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Crow Indians, De la Vérendrye's sons among, 232-233. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +D +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dablon, Claude, Jesuit missionary, 103, 134 n., 142. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +D'Ailleboust, M., governor of Company of Normandy, 354. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dakota, Radisson's explorations in, 89. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +D'Argenson, Viscomte, governor of New France, 99, 129-130, 356-357, 360. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +D'Avaugour, governor, 104, 105, 107, 133, 143, 357, 360. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Death-song, Huron, 24, 54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De Casson, Dollier, cited, 5 n., 96 n., 98 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Galissonnière, governor, 235. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Jonquière, governor, 236. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De Lanoue, fur-trade pioneer, 204. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Vérendrye, Francois, 215, 222, 229, 230, 233. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Vérendrye, Jean Baptiste, 197, 205, 208-209, 210, 212; murder of, +by Sioux, 214. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Vérendrye, Louis, 215, 229. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Vérendrye, Pierre, 215, 222, 229, 230, 235, 315. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De la Vérendrye, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, leaves Montreal on search +for Western Sea (1731), 194-197; at Nepigon, 201; previous career, +201-203; traverses Lake Superior to Kaministiquia, 204; Fort St. Pierre +named for, 206; among the Cree Indians, 206-208; return to Quebec to +raise supplies, 210; loss of eldest son in Sioux massacre, 214; +explores Minnesota and Manitoba to Lake Winnipeg, 215-216; at Fort +Maurepas, 217; return to Montreal with furs, 218; explores valley of +the Assiniboine, 219-221; visits the Mandan Indians, 224-225; takes +possession for France of the Upper Missouri, 225; superseded by De +Noyelles (1746), 235; decorated with Order of Cross of St. Louis, 235; +death at Montreal, 236. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De Niverville, lieutenant of Saint-Pierre, 236-237. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Denonville, Marquis of, 336, 366, 367. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De Noyelles, supersession of De la Vérendrye by, 235. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +De Noyon, explorations of, 204. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dieppe, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dionne, Dr. N. E., cited, 76 n., 88 n., 106 n., 139 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dog Rib Indians, Mackenzie among, 283-284. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dollard, fight of, against the Iroquois, 96-98, 198. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dreuillettes, Gabriel, discoveries by, 70-71, 103, 134 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Drewyer, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 331. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Drugging of Indians, 63-64. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Duchesnau, M. Jacques, 149 n., 358. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dufrost, Christopher, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, 197, 203, 205, 209, 210, +211. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Du Péron, Francois, 47. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Duplessis-Kerbodot, murder of, by Iroquois, 5 n., 19, 45. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dupuis, Major, at Onondaga, 46, 55-66. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Dutch, arms supplied to Mohawk Indians by, 9 n.; war of, with the +English, 137-138. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +E +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +England, arrival of Radisson and Groseillers in, 137; effect of war +between Holland and, on exploring propositions, 137-138; Hudson's Bay +Company organized in, 139-140; fur-trading expeditions from, 140-149. +<I>See</I> Hudson's Bay Company <I>and</I> Radisson. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Erie Indians, the, 34. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Eskimo, massacre of, by Chipewyans, 263-265. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +F +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"Far-Off-Metal River," the, 245, 249, 252; Hearne reaches the, 262. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Feasts, Indian, 60, 62-63, 67 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Festins à tout manger</I>, 60, 67 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fields, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 330-331. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Flathead Indians, assistance given Lewis and Clark by, 327, 328. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Floyd, Sergeant, of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Forked River, term applied to Mississippi and Missouri rivers, 86, 100; +Radisson's account of people on the, 86-87. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort, Dollard's so-called, at the Long Sault, 97; Radisson and +Groseillers', in the Northwest, 114-115. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Bourbon (Port Royal), on Hayes River, 161-175, 182-186. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Bourbon, on Saskatchewan, 229. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Chipewyan, 277. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Clatsop, Lewis and Clark's winter quarters, 327-328. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Dauphin, 229. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort King Charles, 139, 146. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Lajonquière, 237. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Mandan, stars and stripes hoisted at, 312. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Maurepas, construction, 209; description, 216-217; De la Vérendrye +at, 217. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Orange, Radisson and the Iroquois at, 36-38; Radisson's escape to, +39-41. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Poskoyac, 229, 235. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Prince of Wales, building of, 243; description, 244-245; Hearne +becomes governor of, 270; surrender and destruction of, 271-272. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort de la Reine, construction of, 222; De la Vérendrye returns to, +after visiting Mandans, 228; abandonment of, 237. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort Rouge, 221. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort St. Charles, 208-209, 210, 215. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort St. Louis, of Quebec, first fortification on site of, 351. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort St. Pierre, 206. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fort William, 280, 283, 287. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fraser River, Mackenzie's explorations on, 294-302. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Frog moon, the (May), 279. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Frontenac, governor of New France, 154, 358, 360, 361, 362, 367. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fur companies of New France, 130, 133, 151, 153, 175-176, 352-358. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fur company, Hudson's Bay. <I>See</I> Hudson's Bay Company. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Fur trade, the French, 101-102, 104; regulations governing the, 104, +153 n.; effect of, on development of West, 113. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +G +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gantlet, running the, 15-16. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gareau, Leonard, journey and death of, 70. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Garneau, cited, 5 n., 87 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gillam, Ben, encounters with Radisson, 163-164, 168-175. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gillam, Zechariah, Radisson's first transactions with, 135-136; +Groseillers' voyage to Hudson Bay with, 138-139; at Rupert River with +Hudson's Bay Company ship, 148; active enmity of, toward Radisson, +165-167, 168-169, 171, 176, 180. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Godefroy, Jean, companion of Radisson, 154. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Godefroy family, the, 154 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Goose month (April), 253-254. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gorst, Thomas, 140 n., 147 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Grand River of the North. <I>See</I> Mackenzie River. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Gray, Captain, 308. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Great Falls of the Missouri, Lewis discovers the, 317. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Great Rat, nation of the, 131, 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Green Bay, western limit of French explorations until Radisson, 69; +Radisson's winter quarters at, 79-80, 99-100. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Groseillers, nephew of explorer, title of nobility ordered granted to, +142. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Groseillers, Jean Baptiste, accompanies Radisson to Hudson Bay (1682), +154; trip up Hayes River, 158, 161; left in charge of Fort Bourbon, +175; troubles with Indians and with English, 182-183; surrenders fort +to Radisson, acting for Hudson's Bay Company, 184; letters to mother, +184, 335-337; carried to England by force, 186; offer from Hudson's Bay +Company, 187. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Groseillers, Médard Chouart, birth, birthplace, and marriage, 45; +journey to Lake Nipissing, 71; engages with Radisson in voyage of +exploration to the West (1658), 71-79; winter quarters at Green Bay, +79-80; explorations in West and Northwest, 80-90; return to Quebec, 99; +second trip to Northwest (1661), 103-129; imprisoned and fined on +return to Quebec (1663), 130; goes to France to seek reparation, 133; +meets with neglect and indifference, 133-134; deceived into returning +to Three Rivers and going to Isle Percée, 135; goes to Port Royal, +N.S., becomes involved with Boston sea-captain, and reaches England +<I>via</I> Boston and Spain (1666), 135-137; backed by Prince Rupert, fits +out ship for Hudson Bay, and spends year in trading expedition +(1668-1669),138-139; on return to London, created a <I>Knight de la +Jarretière</I>, 139; second voyage from England (1670), 140; involved with +Radisson in suspicions of double-dealing, 147-148; in meeting of fur +traders at Quebec, 149; retires to family at Three Rivers, 151; +summoned by Radisson to join expedition in private French interests to +Hayes River (1681-1682), 153-158; successful trade in furs, 158, 167; +jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, 175-176; summoned to France +by Colbert (1684), 176-177; petition for redress of wrongs ignored by +French court, 179; gives up struggle and retires to Three Rivers, 179. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +H +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hayes, Sir James, 180, 181. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hayes River, Radisson's canoe trip up the, 158-160; Fort Bourbon +established on, 161; Radisson's second visit to, 182-186. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hayet, Marguerite, Radisson's sister, 6 n., 43; death of first husband, +19, 45; marriage with Groseillers, 45; letters from son, 184, 335-337. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hayet, Sébastien, 6 n., 43 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hearne, Samuel, cited, 14 n.; departure from Fort Prince of Wales on +exploring trip, 249-252; in the Barren Lands, 253-255, 259-260; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 261; discovers the Coppermine River, 262-263; +massacre of Eskimo by Indians accompanying, 264-265; arrival at Arctic +Ocean, 265; takes possession of Arctic regions for Hudson's Bay +Company, 266-267; returns up the Coppermine River and discovers copper +mines, 267; travels in Athabasca region, 268-269; returns to Fort +Prince of Wales, 269; becomes governor of post, 270; surrenders fort to +the French, 271-272. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hénault, Madeline, Radisson's mother, 6 n., 43. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hudson Bay, overland routes to, 71; Radisson's early discoveries +regarding, 90-91, 127-128. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Hudson Bay</I>, Robson's, cited, 139 n., 140 n., 147 n., 161 n., 166 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Hudson's Bay Company, origin of, 139-140; early expeditions, 140-149; +distrust of Radisson by, 150; contract between Radisson and, 181-182; +final treaty of peace made between Indians and, 185; poor treatment of +Radisson by, 188; quietly prosperous career of, 241-242; encroachments +of French traders, 242-243; demand for activity, 243-244; possession +taken of Arctic regions for, by Hearne, 266-267. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Huron Indians, death songs of, 24, 54; massacre of Christian, by +Iroquois, 50-54; band of, with Dollard, against the Iroquois, 97-98; +territory of, 359; tribes of, at Michilimackinac, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Husky dogs, 277. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +I +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Icebergs, Labradorian, 155. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Iroquois Confederacy, the five tribes composing the, 34; +characteristics of, 366. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Iroquois Indians, murder of inhabitants of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, +45; treatment of prisoners by, 15-16, 25-28, 54; Radisson's life with, +16-39; Frenchmen at Montreal scalped by, 48; hostages of, held at +Quebec, 48, 55-56; siege of Onondaga by, 55-67; encounters between +Algonquins and Radisson and, 76-78, 79-80; Radisson's fight with, on +the Grand Sault, 94-96; Bollard's battle with, 97-98; Radisson's fights +with, on second Western trip, 107-108, 109-111; wars between Algonquins +and, 359. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Isle of Massacres, 50-54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Issaguy tribe of Indians, 131 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +J +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Jemmeraie, Sieur de la, De la Vérendrye's lieutenant, 197, 203, 205, +209, 210; death of, 211. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Jesuit Relations</I>, cited, 57 n., 69 n., 71 n., 73 n., 80 n., 81 n., 82 +n., 91 n., 92 n., 96 n., 141 n.; quoted, 88. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Jesuits, in Onondaga expedition, 44-67; lives of Iroquois saved by, 65; +start with Radisson and Groseillers on first Western expedition, 73; +turn back to Montreal, 77. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Jogues, Father, 4, 56, 68, 69. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Jolliet, 84 n., 149, 151. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +K +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Kaministiquia, fur post at, 204. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Kickapoo Indians, location of, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +King Charles Fort. <I>See</I> Fort King Charles. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Kirke, Mary, marriage with Radisson, 138; becomes a Catholic, 152. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Kirke, Sir John, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140; claims of, +against New France, 152; forbids daughter's going to France, 152; +friendly influence used for Radisson, 180. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Knight de la Jarretière</I>, Groseillers created a, 139. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +L +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Barre, governor of New France, 176 +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Chesnaye, cited, 115 n., 131 n.; backs Radisson in Northern +expedition, 152-153; outcome of Radisson's dealings with, 175-176. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lake Assiniboel, 366. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"Lake of the Castors," the (Lake Nipissing), 76 n., 106 n., 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lake Ontario, tribes about, 366. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lake Superior, exploration of, by Radisson, 89; explorer's second visit +to, 111-112. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lamoignon, M. de, president of Company of Normandy, 355, 356, 357. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Perouse, French admiral, 271. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Larivière, companion of Radisson and Groseillers, 105, 106-107. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Salle, 84 n., 85, 149, 151, 194. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lauzon, M. de, governor of Company of Normandy, 355-356, 368. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Vallière, 103. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +La Vérendrye. <I>See</I> De la Vérendrye. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ledyard, John, 308. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation</I>, cited, 46 n., 58 n., 60 n., 63 n., +81 n., 90 n., 96 n., 98 n., 139 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lewis, Meriwether, starts on expedition to explore Missouri and +Columbia rivers, 308-309; reaches villages of Mandan Indians, 311-313; +first views the Rocky Mountains, 314-315; discovers the Great Falls of +the Missouri, 317; narrowly escapes death from a bear, 318-319; enters +the Gates of the Rockies, 321; reaches sources of the Missouri, +322-323; makes friends with Snake Indians, 323-327; crosses Divide to +the Clearwater River and travels down the Columbia, 327; arrival on +Pacific Ocean, 327; winters at Fort Clatsop (1805-1806), 327-328; +return trip by main stream of the Missouri, 329; adventures with +Minnetaree Indians, 329-331; arrival at St. Louis, 332; tribute to +character and qualities of, 332-333. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Liberte, traitor in Lewis and Clark's expedition, 311. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Little Missouri, Lewis and Clark pass the, 313. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"Little Sticks," region of, 253-254, 259-260. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +London, Radisson's first visit to, 137-138. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Long Sault, Rapids of, Dollard's battle at, 96-98, 198. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Lord Preston, English envoy in France, 177, 180, 181. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Low, A. P., quoted, 128 n., 146 n., 149 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +M +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mackay, Alexander, Mackenzie's lieutenant, 288, 291, 292, 293, 296, 299. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, early career of, 276; stationed at Fort +Chipewyan, 276-277; exploration of Mackenzie River by, 280-285; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 285; reaches Arctic Ocean, 285-286; returns up the +Mackenzie to Fort Chipewyan, 286; exploration of Peace River by, +288-294; discovers source of Peace River, 294; crosses the Divide and +reaches head waters of Fraser River, 294; travels down the Fraser, +294-298; adventures with Indians, 298-300; reaches the Pacific Ocean, +302-303; return to Fort Chipewyan <I>via</I> Peace River, 304-305; later +life, 306. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mackenzie, Charles, 311. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mackenzie, Roderick, 278, 279. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mackenzie River, exploration of, 280-287, 296-302. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mandan Indians, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Radisson +discovers the, 86, 88; De la Vérendrye's visit to, 222, 225-227; the +younger De la Vérendryes' second visit to, 230-231; Lewis and Clark at +villages of, 311-313, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Manitoba, Radisson's explorations in, 113-128. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Marquette, Père, 84 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Martin, Abraham, Plains of Abraham named for, 45 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Martin, Helen, Groseillers' first wife, 45 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Martinière, plan of, to capture Radisson for French, 188. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mascoutins, "people of the fire," 80, 131 n., 364, 365; location of +the, 86; Radisson among the, 100. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Matonabbee, chief of Chipewyans, 248-249; aid afforded Hearne by, +256-263; massacre of Eskimo directed by, 264-265; suicide of, 272. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ménard, Father, 105, 112. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Messaiger, Father, 204, 205, 209. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Miami Indians, location of the, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Michigan, Indian tribes in, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Michilimackinac, Island of, Radisson; passes, 112; early headquarters +of fur trade, 201; Indian tribes at, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Micmac Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Minnesota, dispute as to discovery of eastern, 71 n.; Radisson's +explorations in, 89; Radisson may have wintered in, on second trip, 113. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Minnetaree Indians, Lewis and the, 329-331. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mississippi, Radisson discovers the Upper, 80-81. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mississippi Valley, Radisson first to explore the, 85-89. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Missouri, tribes of the, 86; De la Vérendrye takes possession of the +Upper, 225; Lewis and Clark explore the, 313-323. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mistassini, Lake, Father Albanel at, 146. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mistassini Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Mohawk Indians, murder of French of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, 45; +adoption of Radisson by a family of, 17; murder of three, by Radisson +and an Algonquin, 20; jealous as to French settlement among Onondagas, +47-48; siege of Onondaga by, 55-59; outwitted by Radisson at Onondaga, +59-67; location of the, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Montagnais Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Montana, punishment of Indians by scouts in, 25 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Montmagny, M. de, governor in Canada, 353-354. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Montreal, expedition for Onondaga leaves, 47; Iroquois scalp Frenchmen +at, 48; return of Onondaga party, 66; De la Vérendrye's departure from, +194-197; Indian tribes located in vicinity of, 363-364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Munck, explorations of, 134 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +N +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"Nation of the Grand Rat," 131, 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nelson River, Radisson on the, 140, 161, 164-167, 170-174, 179 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nemisco River, called the Rupert, 139. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nepigon, De la Vérendrye at, 201, 202. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +New York in 1653, 41-42. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>New York Colonial Documents</I>, 9 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nez Perces Indians, help given to Lewis and Clark by, 328. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nicolet, Jean, 68, 69. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nicolls, Colonel Richard, quoted, 136 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nipissing, Lake, 76 n., 106 n., 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Nipissinien Indians, the, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Northwest, the Great, discovery of, by Radisson, 80-85. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Northwest Fur Company, the, 279, 280, 287. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Northwest Passage, reward of L20,000 offered for discovery of, 278. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Norton, Marie, 247, 270, 271-272. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Norton, Moses, governor of Fort Prince of Wales, 244; character of, +246-247; death of, 269-270. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +O +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ochagach, Indian hunter, 202. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Octbaton tribe of Indians, 131 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ojibway Indians, 115, 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Oldmixon, John, cited, 92 n., 114 n., 130 n., 147 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Omaha Indians, Radisson's possible visit to, 86, 88. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Omtou tribe of Indians, 131 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Oneida Indians, the, 34, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Onondaga, settlement at, 46; Iroquois conspiracy against, 46-48; +garrison besieged at, 55-63; escape of French from, 64-67. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Onondaga tribe, the, 34; Jesuit mission among (1656), 46-47; +treacherous conduct of, toward Christian Hurons, 50-54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Orange. <I>See</I> Albany. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Orimha, Radisson's Mohawk name, 16. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Oudiette, Jean, 154 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"Ouinipeg," Lake, 69, 71. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Outanlouby Indians, the, 364. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +P +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Pacific Ocean, Mackenzie's expedition reaches the, 302-303; Lewis and +Clark's expedition reaches, 327. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Papinachois Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Parkman, Francis, cited, 5 n., 19 n., 46 n., 87 n., 96 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Pays d'en Haut</I>, "Up-Country," defined, 201 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Peace River, the, 281; exploration of, 287; Mackenzie reaches the +source of the, 294. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Pemmican, defined, 223. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +"People of the Fire," the, Mascoutin Indians, 80 n., 86 n., 100, 131 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior, the, 112. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Piescaret, Algonquin chief, 4. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Pipe of peace, smoking the, 121-123. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Plains of Abraham, named for Abraham Martin, 45 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Poinsy, M. de, commander at St. Christopher, 353. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Poissons Blancs (White Fish) Indians, the, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Poncet, Père, 41. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Port Nelson, 140, 161-175, 182-186. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Port Royal, Nova Scotia, Radisson and Groseillers at, 135. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Prince Maximilian, 226. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Prince Rupert, patron of French explorers, 138-139, 180; first governor +of Hudson's Bay Company, 140. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Prisoners, treatment of, by Iroquois, 15-16, 25-28, 54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Prudhomme, Mr. Justice, 88 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Purification, bath of, Indian rite, 14, 268. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Q +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Quebec, Iroquois hostages for safety of Onondaga held at, 48, 55-56; +celebration at, on return of Radisson and Groseillers, 99; meeting of +fur traders at (1676), 149; Indian tribes located about, 363. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +R +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Radisson, Pierre Esprit (the elder), 6 n., 43 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, uncle of the explorer, 43 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, date and place of birth, 6; genealogy of, 6 +n., 43 n.; captured by Iroquois Indians, 9; adopted into Mohawk tribe, +17; escape to Fort Orange (1653), 39-41; proof of Catholicism of, 41 +n.; visits Europe and returns to Three Rivers (1654), 42-44; joins +expedition to Onondaga (1657), 47; besieged by Iroquois throughout +winter, 55-64; saves the garrison and returns to Montreal, 65-67; goes +on trapping and exploring trip to the West (1658), 73-74; reaches Lake +Nipissing and Lake Huron, 78; in winter quarters at Green Bay, 79-80; +crosses present state of Wisconsin and discovers Upper Mississippi, +80-85; explorations to the west and south, 86-89; in Minnesota and +Manitoba, 89-91; encounter with Iroquois at Long Sault of the Ottawa, +94-96; at scene of Dollard's fight of a week before, 96-98; arrival at +Quebec (1660), 99; sets forth on voyage of discovery toward Hudson Bay +(1661), 105; traverses Lake Superior, 111-112; builds fort and winters +west of present Duluth, 113-116; visits the Sioux, 123-124; reaches +Lake Winnipeg, 127; returns to Quebec (1663), 129; bad treatment by +French officials, 130; goes to France to gain his rights, 133-134; +ill-treatment, deception by Rochelle merchant, dealings with Captain +Gillam of Boston, and visit to Boston (1665), 134-136; goes to England, +137-138; marriage with Mary Kirke, 138; formation of Hudson's Bay +Company (1670), 139-140; trading voyage to Port Nelson (1671), 140-141; +recalled to England and poorly treated (1674-1675), 148; receives +commission in French navy (1675-1676), 148; complications between +wife's father and French government, 152; backed by La Chesnaye, +engages in new expedition to Hudson Bay, 152-153; returns to Quebec +(1681) and sails to Hayes River (1682), 153-158; troubles with English +and Boston ships, 161-175; jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, +175-177; unsuccessfully presses claims in France, 179-180; commissioned +by Hudson's Bay Company, 181-182; sails to Hayes River and takes +possession of Fort Bourbon and French furs (1684), 182-185; return to +England, 186-187; annual voyages to Hudson Bay for five years, 188; +distrusted on breaking out of war with France, and neglect in old age, +188-189: consideration of character and career, 189-190. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Radisson's Relation</I>, cited, 9 n., 46 n., 63 n., 80 n., 81 n., 98 n., +99 n., 122, 127, 163 n., 179; language used in, 82; time of writing, +138. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ragueneau, Father Paul, 46 n., 47, 48, 50, 51, 52, 53, 59 n., 63 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rascal Village, Indian camp, 305. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Red River, first white men on, 219. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rhythm as an Indian characteristic, 160 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ricaree Indians, insolence of, to Lewis and Clark, 311-312. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Robson, cited, 139, 140, 147, 161, 166. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rochelle, Radisson's visit to, in 1654, 43. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rocky Mountains, Radisson's nearest approach to the, 89; Pierre de la +Vérendrye reaches the, 233; Lewis's first view of the, 314-315; Lewis +and Clark enter Gates of the, 321. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rouen, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353, 357. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Roy, J. Edmond, cited, 102 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Roy, R., translations of documents, 335. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Rupert River, the Nemisco renamed the, 139. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +S +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Sacajawea, squaw guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 321, 326, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +St. Louis, departure of Lewis and Clark's expedition from, 308-309; +return to, 332. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Saint-Lusson, Sieur de, 142. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Saint-Pierre, Legardeur de, 236-237. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Saskatchewan River, exploration of, 229. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Sautaux Indians, the, 89-90, 92 n., 131 n., 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Scalp dance, the, 12, 14. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Seneca Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Sioux Indians, the, 69; Radisson and the, 85, 88, 120-124; desire of, +for firearms, 120, 122; location of the, 365. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Skull-crackers, Indian, defined, 25, 121. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Slave Lake, Mackenzie on, 282. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Slave Lake Indians, the, 280, 282, 290. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Smith, Donald (Lord Strathcona), 275-276. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Snake Indians, Lewis and Clark make friends with, 323-326. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Society of One Hundred. <I>See</I> Company of One Hundred Associates. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Songs, Indian, 159, 160. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Sturgeons, Radisson's river of, 112. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Sulte, Benjamin, cited, 4, 5 n., 6 n., 7 n., 19 n., 43 n., 68 n., 76 +n., 86 n., 99 n., 102 n., 139 n., 154 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +T +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Tadoussac (Quebec), Company of, 352. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Talon, intendant of New France, 7 n., 142-143, 357-358, 360, 367, 368. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Tanguay, Abbé, 5 n., 19 n., 88 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Tar bed, Mackenzie's discovery of a, in the Arctic, 286. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Temiscamingue Indians, the, 364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Thousand Islands, massacre of Huron captives by Iroquois at, 53-54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Three Forks of the Missouri, Lewis and Clark arrive at, 321. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Three Rivers, population of, 7 n.; in 1654, 44-45; De la Vérendrye born +at, 201; Indians of, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Touret, Eli Godefroy, French spy, 137. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Torture, Indian methods of, 15-16, 25-28, 54. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Travaille</I>, defined, 224. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +<I>Tripe de roches</I>, defined, 78. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +V +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Vérendrye. <I>See</I> De la Vérendrye. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Ville-Marie (Montreal), Indian tribes about, 363-364. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Voorhis, Mrs. Julia Clark, Clark letters owned by, 312 n. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +W +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Wampum, significance to Indians, 17. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +War-cry, Indian, sounds representing the, 11 n. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Waste, viewed by Indians as crime, 60. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +West Indies Company. <I>See</I> Company of the West Indies. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Windsor, member of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 315-316. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Winnipeg, Lake, first reports of, 69, 71; Radisson arrives at, 127; +rumours of a tide on, 216; De la Vérendrye on, 216-218. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Wisconsin, Radisson's travels in, 80-8l, 89. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Wolf Indians located at Three Rivers, 363. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Wyandotte Indians, the, 364. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Y +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Yellowstone River, exploration of, by Lewis and Clark, 313, 329. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +York (Port Nelson), 140, 161-175, 182-186. +</P> + +<P CLASS="index"> +Young, Sir William, champions Radisson's cause, 180, 181, 188. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. 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b/18216-h/images/img-328.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9b03386 --- /dev/null +++ b/18216-h/images/img-328.jpg diff --git a/18216-h/images/img-330.jpg b/18216-h/images/img-330.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..18af44d --- /dev/null +++ b/18216-h/images/img-330.jpg diff --git a/18216-h/images/img-front.jpg b/18216-h/images/img-front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..05e6126 --- /dev/null +++ b/18216-h/images/img-front.jpg diff --git a/18216.txt b/18216.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e6ab239 --- /dev/null +++ b/18216.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10430 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. C. Laut + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Pathfinders of the West + Being the Thrilling Story of the Adventures of the Men Who + Discovered the Great Northwest: Radisson, La Verendrye, + Lewis and Clark + +Author: A. C. Laut + +Release Date: April 20, 2006 [EBook #18216] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PATHFINDERS OF THE WEST *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + + + + + + +[Frontispiece: Stealing from the Fort by Night.] + + + + + + +Pathfinders of the West + + + +BEING + +THE THRILLING STORY OF THE ADVENTURES + +OF THE MEN WHO DISCOVERED THE GREAT NORTHWEST + +RADISSON, LA VERENDRYE, LEWIS AND CLARK + + + + + +BY + +A. C. LAUT + + + +AUTHOR OF "LORDS OF THE NORTH," "HERALDS + OF EMPIRE," "STORY OF THE TRAPPER" + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS BY + +REMINGTON, GOODWIN, MARCHAND + +AND OTHERS + + + + +NEW YORK + +GROSSET & DUNLAP + +PUBLISHERS + + + + +COPYRIGHT, 1904, + +By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY. + + + + +Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1904. Reprinted February, +1906. + + + + +WILDWOOD PLACE, WASSAIC, N.Y. + +August 15, 1904. + + +DEAR MR. SULTE: + +A few years ago, when I was a resident of the Far West and tried to trace +the paths of early explorers, I found that all authorities--first, +second, and third rate--alike referred to one source of information for +their facts. The name in the tell-tale footnote was invariably your own. + +While I assume _all_ responsibility for upsetting the apple cart of +established opinions by this book, will you permit me to dedicate it to +you as a slight token of esteem to the greatest living French-Canadian +historian, from whom we have all borrowed and to whom few of us have +rendered the tribute due? + +Faithfully, + +AGNES C. LAUT. + + + MR. BENJAMIN SULTE, + PRESIDENT ROYAL SOCIETY, + OTTAWA, CANADA. + + + + + THE GREAT NORTHWEST + + I love thee, O thou great, wild, rugged land + Of fenceless field and snowy mountain height, + Uprearing crests all starry-diademed + Above the silver clouds! A sea of light + Swims o'er thy prairies, shimmering to the sight + A rolling world of glossy yellow wheat + That runs before the wind in billows bright + As waves beneath the beat of unseen feet, + And ripples far as eye can see--as far and fleet! + + Here's chances for every man! The hands that work + Become the hands that rule! Thy harvests yield + Only to him who toils; and hands that shirk + Must empty go! And here the hands that wield + The sceptre work! O glorious golden field! + O bounteous, plenteous land of poet's dream! + O'er thy broad plain the cloudless sun ne'er wheeled + But some dull heart was brightened by its gleam + To seize on hope and realize life's highest dream! + + Thy roaring tempests sweep from out the north-- + Ten thousand cohorts on the wind's wild mane-- + No hand can check thy frost-steeds bursting forth + To gambol madly on the storm-swept plain! + Thy hissing snow-drifts wreathe their serpent train, + With stormy laughter shrieks the joy of might-- + Or lifts, or falls, or wails upon the wane-- + Thy tempests sweep their stormy trail of white + Across the deepening drifts--and man must die, or fight! + + Yes, man must sink or fight, be strong or die! + That is thy law, O great, free, strenuous West! + The weak thou wilt make strong till he defy + Thy bufferings; but spacious prairie breast + Will never nourish weakling as its guest! + He must grow strong or die! Thou givest all + An equal chance--to work, to do their best-- + Free land, free hand--thy son must work or fall + Grow strong or die! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call! + + And so I love thee, great, free, rugged land + Of cloudless summer days, with west-wind croon, + And prairie flowers all dewy-diademed, + And twilights long, with blood-red, low-hung moon + And mountain peaks that glisten white each noon + Through purple haze that veils the western sky-- + And well I know the meadow-lark's far rune + As up and down he lilts and circles high + And sings sheer joy--be strong, be free; be strong or die! + + + + +Foreword + +The question will at once occur why no mention is made of Marquette and +Jolliet and La Salle in a work on the pathfinders of the West. The +simple answer is--they were _not_ pathfinders. Contrary to the notions +imbibed at school, and repeated in all histories of the West, +Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle did not discover the vast region +beyond the Great Lakes. Twelve years before these explorers had +thought of visiting the land which the French hunter designated as the +_Pays d'en Haut_, the West had already been discovered by the most +intrepid _voyageurs_ that France produced,--men whose wide-ranging +explorations exceeded the achievements of Cartier and Champlain and La +Salle put together. + +It naturally rouses resentment to find that names revered for more than +two centuries as the first explorers of the Great Northwest must give +place to a name almost unknown. It seems impossible that at this late +date history should have to be rewritten. Such is the fact _if we +would have our history true_. Not Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle +discovered the West, but two poor adventurers, who sacrificed all +earthly possessions to the enthusiasm for discovery, and incurred such +bitter hostility from the governments of France and England that their +names have been hounded to infamy. These were Sieur Pierre Esprit +Radisson and Sieur Medard Chouart Groseillers, fur traders of Three +Rivers, Quebec. [1] + +The explanation of the long oblivion obscuring the fame of these two +men is very simple. Radisson and Groseillers defied, first New France, +then Old France, and lastly England. While on friendly terms with the +church, they did not make their explorations subservient to the +propagation of the faith. In consequence, they were ignored by both +Church and State. The _Jesuit Relations_ repeatedly refer to two young +Frenchmen who went beyond Lake Michigan to a "Forked River" (the +Mississippi), among the Sioux and other Indian tribes that used coal +for fire because wood did not grow large enough on the prairie. +Contemporaneous documents mention the exploits of the young Frenchmen. +The State Papers of the Marine Department, Paris, contain numerous +references to Radisson and Groseillers. But, then, the _Jesuit +Relations_ were not accessible to scholars, let alone the general +public, until the middle of the last century, when a limited edition +was reprinted of the Cramoisy copies published at the time the priests +sent their letters home to France. The contemporaneous writings of +Marie de l'Incarnation, the Abbe Belmont, and Dollier de Casson were +not known outside the circle of French savants until still later; and +it is only within recent years that the Archives of Paris have been +searched for historical data. Meantime, the historians of France and +England, animated by the hostility of their respective governments, +either slurred over the discoveries of Radisson and Groseillers +entirely, or blackened their memories without the slightest regard to +truth. It would, in fact, take a large volume to contradict and +disprove half the lies written of these two men. Instead of consulting +contemporaneous documents,--which would have entailed both cost and +labor,--modern writers have, unfortunately, been satisfied to serve up +a rehash of the detractions written by the old historians. In 1885 +came a discovery that punished such slovenly methods by practically +wiping out the work of the pseudo-historians. There was found in the +British Museum, the Bodleian Library, and Hudson's Bay House, London, +unmistakably authentic record of Radisson's voyages, written by +himself. The Prince Society of Boston printed two hundred and fifty +copies of the collected Journals. The Canadian Archives published the +journals of the two last voyages. Francis Parkman was too +conscientious to ignore the importance of the find; but his history of +the West was already written. He made what reparation he could to +Radisson's memory by appending a footnote to subsequent editions of two +of his books, stating that Radisson and Groseillers' travels took them +to the "Forked River" before 1660. Some ten other lines are all that +Mr. Parkman relates of Radisson; and the data for these brief +references have evidently been drawn from Radisson's enemies, for the +explorer is called "a renegade." It is necessary to state this, +because some writers, whose zeal for criticism was much greater than +their qualifications, wanted to know why any one should attempt to +write Radisson's life when Parkman had already done so. + +Radisson's life reads more like a second Robinson Crusoe than sober +history. For that reason I have put the corroborative evidence in +footnotes, rather than cumber the movement of the main theme. I am +sorry to have loaded the opening parts with so many notes; but +Radisson's voyages change the relative positions of the other explorers +so radically that proofs must be given. The footnotes are for the +student and may be omitted by the general reader. The study of +Radisson arose from, using his later exploits on Hudson Bay as the +subject of the novel, _Heralds of Empire_. On the publication of that +book, several letters came from the Western states asking how far I +thought Radisson had gone beyond Lake Superior before he went to Hudson +Bay. Having in mind--I am sorry to say--mainly the early records of +Radisson's enemies, I at first answered that I thought it very +difficult to identify the discoverer's itinerary beyond the Great +Lakes. So many letters continued to come on the subject that I began +to investigate contemporaneous documents. The path followed by the +explorer west of the Great Lakes--as given by Radisson himself--is here +written. Full corroboration of all that Radisson relates is to be +found--as already stated--in chronicles written at the period of his +life and in the State Papers. Copies of these I have in my possession. +Samples of the papers bearing on Radisson's times, copied from the +Marine Archives, will be found in the Appendix. One must either accept +the explorer's word as conclusive,--even when he relates his own +trickery,--or in rejecting his journal also reject as fictions the +_Jesuit Relations_, the _Marine Archives_, _Dollier de Casson_, _Marie +de l'Incarnation_, and the _Abbe Belmont_, which record the same events +as Radisson. In no case has reliance been placed on second-hand +chronicles. Oldmixon and Charlevoix must both have written from +hearsay; therefore, though quoted in the footnotes, they are not given +as conclusive proof. The only means of identifying Radisson's routes +are (1) by his descriptions of the countries, (2) his notes of the +Indian tribes; so that personal knowledge of the territory is +absolutely essential in following Radisson's narrative. All the +regions traversed by Radisson--the Ottawa, the St. Lawrence, the Great +Lakes, Labrador, and the Great Northwest--I have visited, some of them +many times, except the shores of Hudson Bay, and of that region I have +some hundreds of photographs. + +Material for the accounts of the other pathfinders of the West has been +drawn directly from the different explorers' journals. + +For historical matter I wish to express my indebtedness to Dr. N. E. +Dionne of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec, whose splendid sketch of +Radisson and Groseillers, read before the Royal Society of Canada, does +much to redeem the memory of the discoverers from ignominy; to Dr. +George Bryce of Winnipeg, whose investigation of Hudson's Bay Archives +adds a new chapter to Radisson's life; to Mr. Benjamin Sulte of Ottawa, +whose destructive criticism of inaccuracies in old and modern records +has done so much to stop people writing history out of their heads and +to put research on an honest basis; and to M. Edouard Richard for +scholarly advice relating to the Marine Archives, which he has +exploited so thoroughly. For transcripts and archives now out of +print, thanks are due Mr. L. P. Sylvain of the Parliamentary Library, +Ottawa, the officials of the Archives Department, Ottawa, Mr. F. C. +Wurtele of Quebec, Professor Andrew Baird of Winnipeg, Mr. Alfred +Matthews of the Prince Society, Boston, the Hon. Jacob V. Brower and +Mr. Warren Upham of St. Paul. Mr. Lawrence J. Burpee of Ottawa was so +good as to give me a reading of his exhaustive notes on La Verendrye +and of data found on the Radisson family. To Mrs. Fred Paget of +Ottawa, the daughter of a Hudson's Bay Company officer, and to Mr. and +Mrs. C. C. Farr of the Northern Ottawa, I am indebted for interesting +facts on life in the fur posts. Miss Talbot of Winnipeg obtained from +retired officers of the Hudson's Bay Company a most complete set of +photographs relating to the fur trade. To her and to those officers +who loaned old heirlooms to be photographed, I beg to express my +cordial appreciation. And the thanks of all who write on the North are +permanently due Mr. C. C. Chipman, Chief Commissioner of the Hudson's +Bay Company, for unfailing courtesy in extending information. + + +WILDWOOD PLACE, + +WASSAIC, N.Y. + + +[1] I of course refer to the West as beyond the Great Lakes; for +Nicotet, in 1634, and two nameless Frenchmen--servants of Jean de +Lauzon--in 1654, had been beyond the Sault. + + + + +Just as this volume was going to the printer, I received a copy of the +very valuable Minnesota _Memoir_, Vol. VI, compiled by the Hon. J. V. +Brower of St. Paul, to whom my thanks are due for this excellent +contribution to Western annals. It may be said that the authors of +this volume have done more than any other writers to vindicate Radisson +and Groseillers as explorers of the West. The very differences of +opinion over the regions visited establish the fact that Radisson _did_ +explore parts of Minnesota. I have purposely avoided trying to say +_what_ parts of Minnesota he exploited, because, it seems to me, the +controversy is futile. Radisson's memory has been the subject of +controversy from the time of his life. The controversy--first between +the governments of France and England, subsequently between the French +and English historians--has eclipsed the real achievements of Radisson. +To me it seems non-essential as to whether Radisson camped on an island +in the Mississippi, or only visited the region of that island. The +fact remains that he discovered the Great Northwest, meaning by that +the region west of the Mississippi. The same dispute has obscured his +explorations of Hudson Bay, French writers maintaining that he went +overland to the North and put his feet in the waters of the bay, the +English writers insisting that he only crossed over the watershed +toward Hudson Bay. Again, the fact remains that he did what others had +failed to do--discovered an overland route to the bay. I am sorry that +Radisson is accused in this _Memoir_ of intentionally falsifying his +relations in two respects, (1) in adding a fanciful year to the +1658-1660 voyage; (2) in saying that he had voyaged down the +Mississippi to Mexico. (1) Internal evidence plainly shows that +Radisson's first four voyages were written twenty years afterward, when +he was in London, and not while on the voyage across the Atlantic with +Cartwright, the Boston commissioner. It is the most natural thing in +the world that Radisson, who had so often been to the wilds, should +have mixed his dates. Every slip as to dates is so easily checked by +contemporaneous records--which, themselves, need to be checked--that it +seems too bad to accuse Radisson of wilfully lying in the matter. When +Radisson lied it was to avoid bloodshed, and not to exalt himself. If +he had had glorification of self in mind, he would not have set down +his own faults so unblushingly; for instance, where he deceives M. +Colbert of Paris. (2) Radisson does not try to give the impression +that he went to Mexico. The sense of the context is that he met an +Indian tribe--Illinois, Mandans, Omahas, or some other--who lived next +to another tribe who told _of_ the Spaniards. I feel almost sure that +the scholarly Mr. Benjamin Sulte is right in his letter to me when he +suggests that Radisson's manuscript has been mixed by transposition of +pages or paragraphs, rather than that Radisson himself was confused in +his account. At the same time every one of the contributors to the +Minnesota _Memoir_ deserves the thanks of all who love _true_ history. + + + + +ADDENDUM + +Since the above foreword was written, the contents of this volume have +appeared serially in four New York magazines. The context of the book +was slightly abridged in these articles, so that a very vital +distinction--namely, the difference between what is given as in +dispute, and what is given as incontrovertible fact--was lost; but what +was my amusement to receive letters from all parts of the West all but +challenging me to a duel. One wants to know "how a reputable author +dare" suggest that Radisson's voyages be taken as authentic. There is +no "dare" about it. It is a fact. For any "reputable" historian to +suggest--as two recently have--that Radisson's voyages are a +fabrication, is to stamp that historian as a pretender who has not +investigated a single record contemporaneous with Radisson's life. One +cannot consult documents contemporaneous with his life and not learn +instantly that he was a very live fact of the most troublesome kind the +governments of France and England ever had to accept. That is why it +impresses me as a presumption that is almost comical for any modern +writer to condescend to say that he "accepts" or "rejects" this or that +part of Radisson's record. If he "rejects" Radisson, he also rejects +the _Marine Archives of Paris_, and the _Jesuit Relations_, which are +the recognized sources of our early history. + +Another correspondent furiously denounces Radisson as a liar because he +mixes his dates of the 1660 trip. It would be just as reasonable to +call La Salle a liar because there are discrepancies in the dates of +his exploits, as to call Radisson a liar for the slips in his dates. +When the mistakes can be checked from internal evidence, one is hardly +justified in charging falsification. + +A third correspondent is troubled by the reference to the Mascoutin +Indians being _beyond_ the Mississippi. State documents establish this +fact. I am not responsible for it; and Radisson could not circle +west-northwest from the Mascoutins to the great encampments of the +Sioux without going far west of the Mississippi. Even if the Jesuits +make a slip in referring to the Sioux's use of some kind of coal for +fire because there was no wood on the prairie, and really mean turf or +buffalo refuse,--which I have seen the Sioux use for fire,--the fact is +that only the tribes far west of the Mississippi habitually used such +substitutes for wood. + +My Wisconsin correspondents I have offended by saying that Radisson +went beyond the Wisconsin; my Minnesota friends, by saying that he went +beyond Minnesota; and my Manitoba co-workers of past days, by +suggesting that he ever went beyond Manitoba. The fact remains that +when we try to identify Radisson's voyages, we must take his own +account of his journeyings; and that account establishes him as the +Discoverer of the Northwest. + +For those who know, I surely do not need to state that there is no +picture of Radisson extant, and that some of the studies of his life +are just as genuine (?) as alleged old prints of his likeness. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +PART ONE + +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON + +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO EXPLORE THE WEST, THE NORTHWEST, +AND THE NORTH + + +CHAPTER I + +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE + +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley--In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes--He is overtaken in Sight of Home--Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him--His Escape + + +CHAPTER II + +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE + +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission--He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands--Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War--Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson + + +CHAPTER III + +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE + +The Discovery of the Great Northwest--Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest--Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West--Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi--The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa--Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored + + +CHAPTER IV + +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE + +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy--It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North--When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits--In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight--They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France + + +CHAPTER V + +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS + +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers--Entangled in +Lawsuits, the Two French Explorers go to England--The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company--Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue--Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade + + +CHAPTER VI + +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE + +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay--Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company--How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY + +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune--Reengaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age--His Character + + + +PART TWO + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA, BEING AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF +THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE VALLEY OF THE +SASKATCHEWAN + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA + +M. de la Verendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent--Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers--His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies--The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty + + + +PART THREE + +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC +CIRCLE AND ATHABASCA REGION + + +CHAPTER IX + +SAMUEL HEARNE + +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and +Northwest Passage--Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton--The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle--Discovery of the Athabasca Country--Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French--Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee + + + +PART FOUR + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES--HOW MACKENZIE CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES +AND LEWIS AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA + + +CHAPTER X + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES + +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the Question of a +Northwest Passage + + +CHAPTER XI + +LEWIS AND CLARK + +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend +the Columbia to the Pacific--Exciting Adventures on the Canons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone--Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles + + +APPENDIX + +INDEX + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Stealing from the Fort by Night . . . . . . Frontispiece + +Map of the Great Fur Country + +Three Rivers in 1757 + +Map of the Iroquois Country in the Days of Radisson + +Albany from an Old Print + +The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time + +Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in Holland + +One of the Earliest Maps of the Great Lakes + +Paddling past Hostiles + +Jogues, the Jesuit Missionary, who was tortured by the Mohawks + +Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal + +A Cree Brave, with the Wampum String + +An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux + +Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in Montreal + +Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River + +Montreal in 1760 + +Chateau St. Louis, Quebec, 1669 + +A Parley on the Plains + +Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three Rivers + +Skin for Skin, Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay Company + +Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from + Tea-chests at York Factory + +Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower + Fort Garry, Red River + +Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight + +Fights at the Foothills of the Rockies, between Crows and Snakes + +Each Man landed with Pack on his Back and trotted away over Portages + +A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands + +A Group of Cree Indians + +The Soldiers marched out from Mount Royal for the Western Sea + +Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca River + +The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains + +Hungry Hall, 1870 + +A Monarch of the Plains + +Fur Traders towed down the Saskatchewan in the Summer of 1900 + +Tepees dotted the Valley + +An Eskimo Belle + +Samuel Hearne + +Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle + +Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun + +Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago + +Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's drawing, 1733-1747 + +Fort Prince of Wales + +Beaver Coin of the Hudson's Bay Company + +Alexander Mackenzie + +Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for the + Value of Three Beaver Skins + +Quill and Beadwork on Buckskin + +Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake Superior + +Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River + +Slave Lake Indians + +Good Hope, Mackenzie River, Hudson's Bay Company Fort + +The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight Sun + +Captain Meriwether Lewis + +Captain William Clark + +Tracking up Stream + +Typical Mountain Trapper + +The Discovery of the Great Falls + +Fighting a Grizzly + +Packer carrying Goods across Portage + +Spying on Enemy's Fort + +Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies + +On Guard + +Indians of the Up-country or Pays d'en Haut + + + + +PART I + +PIERRE ESPRIT RADISSON + +ADVENTURES OF THE FIRST WHITE MAN TO + EXPLORE THE WEST, THE NORTHWEST, + AND THE NORTH + + + +[Illustration: Map of the Great Fur Company.] + + + +Pathfinders of the West + + +CHAPTER I + +1651-1653 + +RADISSON'S FIRST VOYAGE + +The Boy Radisson is captured by the Iroquois and carried to the Mohawk +Valley--In League with Another Captive, he slays their Guards and +escapes--He is overtaken in Sight of Home--Tortured and adopted in the +Tribe, he visits Orange, where the Dutch offer to ransom him--His Escape + + +Early one morning in the spring of 1652 three young men left the little +stockaded fort of Three Rivers, on the north bank of the St. Lawrence, +for a day's hunting in the marshes of Lake St. Peter. On one side were +the forested hills, purple with the mists of rising vapor and still +streaked with white patches of snow where the dense woods shut out the +sunlight. On the other lay the silver expanse of the St. Lawrence, +more like a lake than a river, with mile on mile southwestward of +rush-grown marshes, where plover and curlew and duck and wild geese +flocked to their favorite feeding-grounds three hundred years ago just +as they do to-day. Northeastward, the three mouths of the St. Maurice +poured their spring flood into the St. Lawrence. + +The hunters were very young. Only hunters rash with the courage of +untried youth would have left the shelter of the fort walls when all +the world knew that the Iroquois had been lying in ambush round the +little settlement of Three Rivers day and night for the preceding year. +Not a week passed but some settler working on the outskirts of Three +Rivers was set upon and left dead in his fields by marauding Iroquois. +The tortures suffered by Jogues, the great Jesuit missionary who had +been captured by the Iroquois a few years before, were still fresh in +the memory of every man, woman, and child in New France. It was from +Three Rivers that Piescaret, the famous Algonquin chief who could +outrun a deer, had set out against the Iroquois, turning his snowshoes +back to front, so that the track seemed to lead north when he was +really going south, and then, having thrown his pursuers off the trail, +coming back on his own footsteps, slipping up stealthily on the +Iroquois that were following the false scent, and tomahawking the +laggards.[1] It was from Three Rivers that the Mohawks had captured +the Algonquin girl who escaped by slipping off the thongs that bound +her. Stepping over the prostrate forms of her sleeping guards, such a +fury of revenge possessed her that she seized an axe and brained the +nearest sleeper, then eluded her pursuers by first hiding in a hollow +tree and afterward diving under the debris of a beaver dam. + +[Illustration: Three Rivers in 1757.] + +These things were known to every inhabitant of Three Rivers. Farmers +had flocked into the little fort and could venture back to their fields +only when armed with a musket.[2] Yet the three young hunters rashly +left the shelter of the fort walls and took the very dangerous path +that led between the forests and the water. One of the young men was +barely in his seventeenth year.[3] This was Pierre Esprit Radisson, +from St. Malo, the town of the famous Cartier. Young Radisson had only +come to New France the year before, and therefore could not realize the +dangers of Indian warfare. Like boys the world over, the three went +along, boasting how they would fight if the Indians came. One skirted +the forest, on the watch for Iroquois, the others kept to the water, on +the lookout for game. About a mile from Three Rivers they encountered +a herdsman who warned them to keep out from the foot of the hills. +Things that looked like a multitude of heads had risen out of the earth +back there, he said, pointing to the forests. That set the young +hunters loading their pistols and priming muskets. It must also have +chilled their zest; for, shooting some ducks, one of the young men +presently declared that he had had enough--he was going back. With +that daring which was to prove both the lodestar and the curse of his +life, young Radisson laughed to scorn the sudden change of mind. +Thereupon the first hunter was joined by the second, and the two went +off in high dudgeon. With a laugh, Pierre Radisson marched along +alone, foreshadowing his after life,--a type of every pathfinder facing +the dangers of the unknown with dauntless scorn, an immortal type of +the world-hero. + +Shooting at every pace and hilarious over his luck, Radisson had +wandered some nine miles from the fort, when he came to a stream too +deep to ford and realized that he already had more game than he could +possibly carry. Hiding in hollow trees what he could not bring back, +he began trudging toward Three Rivers with a string of geese, ducks, +and odd teal over his shoulders, Wading swollen brooks and scrambling +over windfalls, he retraced his way without pause till he caught sight +of the town chapel glimmering in the sunlight against the darkening +horizon above the river. He was almost back where his comrades had +left him; so he sat down to rest. The cowherd had driven his cattle +back to Three Rivers.[4] The river came lapping through the rushes. +There was a clacking of wild-fowl flocking down to their marsh nests; +perhaps a crane flopped through the reeds; but Radisson, who had +laughed the nervous fears of the others to scorn, suddenly gave a start +at the lonely sounds of twilight. Then he noticed that his pistols +were water-soaked. Emptying the charges, he at once reloaded, and with +characteristic daring crept softly back to reconnoitre the woods. +Dodging from tree to tree, he peered up and down the river. Great +flocks of ducks were swimming on the water. That reassured him, for +the bird is more alert to alarm than man. The fort was almost within +call. Radisson determined to have a shot at such easy quarry; but as +he crept through the grass toward the game, he almost stumbled over +what rooted him to the spot with horror. Just as they had fallen, +naked and scalped, with bullet and hatchet wounds all over their +bodies, lay his comrades of the morning, dead among the rushes. +Radisson was too far out to get back to the woods. Stooping, he tried +to grope to the hiding of the rushes. As he bent, half a hundred heads +rose from the grasses, peering which way he might go. They were +behind, before, on all sides--his only hope was a dash for the +cane-grown river, where he might hide by diving and wading, till +darkness gave a chance for a rush to the fort. Slipping bullet and +shot in his musket as he ran, and ramming down the paper, hoping +against hope that he had not been seen, he dashed through the +brushwood. A score of guns crashed from the forest.[5] Before he +realized the penalty that the Iroquois might exact for such an act, he +had fired back; but they were upon him. He was thrown down and +disarmed. When he came giddily to his senses, he found himself being +dragged back to the woods, where the Iroquois flaunted the fresh scalps +of his dead friends. Half drawn, half driven, he was taken to the +shore. Here, a flotilla of canoes lay concealed where he had been +hunting wild-fowl but a few hours before. Fires were kindled, and the +crotched sticks driven in the ground to boil the kettle for the evening +meal. The young Frenchman was searched, stripped, and tied round the +waist with a rope, the Indians yelling and howling like so many wolves +all the while till a pause was given their jubilation by the alarm of a +scout that the French and Algonquins were coming. In a trice, the fire +was out and covered. A score of young braves set off to reconnoitre. +Fifty remained at the boats; but if Radisson hoped for a rescue, he was +doomed to disappointment. The warriors returned. Seventy Iroquois +gathered round a second fire for the night. The one predominating +passion of the savage nature is bravery. Lying in ambush, they had +heard this French youth laugh at his comrades' fears. In defiance of +danger, they had seen him go hunting alone. After he had heard an +alarm, he had daringly come out to shoot at the ducks. And, then, boy +as he was, when attacked he had instantly fired back at numerous enough +enemies to have intimidated a score of grown men. There is not the +slightest doubt it was Radisson's bravery that now saved him from the +fate of his companions. + +His clothes were returned. While the evening meal was boiling, young +warriors dressed and combed the Frenchman's hair after the manner of +braves. They daubed his cheeks with war-paint; and when they saw that +their rancid meats turned him faint, they boiled meat in clean water +and gave him meal browned on burning sand.[6] He did not struggle to +escape, so he was now untied. That night he slept between two warriors +under a common blanket, through which he counted the stars. For fifty +years his home was to be under the stars. It is typically Radisson +when he could add: "I slept a sound sleep; for they wakened me upon the +breaking of the day." In the morning they embarked in thirty-seven +canoes, two Indians in each boat, with Radisson tied to the cross-bar +of one, the scalps lying at his feet. Spreading out on the river, they +beat their paddles on the gunwales of the canoes, shot off guns, and +uttered the shrill war-cry--"Ah-oh! Ah-oh! Ah-oh!" [7] Lest this +were not sufficient defiance to the penned-up fort on the river bank, +the chief stood up in his canoe, signalled silence, and gave three +shouts. At once the whole company answered till the hills rang; and +out swung the fleet of canoes with more shouting and singing and firing +of guns, each paddle-stroke sounding the death knell to the young +Frenchman's hopes. + +By sunset they were among the islands at the mouth of the Richelieu, +where muskrats scuttled through the rushes and wild-fowl clouded the +air. The south shore of Lake St. Peter was heavily forested; the +north, shallow. The lake was flooded with spring thaw, and the Mohawks +could scarcely find camping-ground among the islands. The young +prisoner was deathly sick from the rank food that he had eaten and +heart-sick from the widening distance between himself and Three Rivers. +Still, they treated him kindly, saying, "Chagon! Chagon!--Be merry! +Cheer up!" The fourth day up the Richelieu, he was embarked without +being fastened to the cross-bar, and he was given a paddle. Fresh to +the work, Radisson made a labor of his oar. The Iroquois took the +paddle and taught him how to give the light, deft, feather strokes of +the Indian canoeman. On the river they met another band of warriors, +and the prisoner was compelled to show himself a trophy of victory and +to sing songs for his captors. That evening the united bands kindled +an enormous campfire and with the scalps of the dead flaunting from +spear heads danced the scalp dance, reenacting in pantomime all the +episodes of the massacre to the monotonous chant-chant, of a recitative +relating the foray. At the next camping-ground, Radisson's hair was +shaved in front and decorated on top with the war-crest of a brave. +Having translated the white man into a savage, they brought him one of +the tin looking-glasses used by Indians to signal in the sun. "I, +viewing myself all in a pickle," relates Radisson, "smeared with red +and black, covered with such a top, . . . could not but fall in love +with myself, if I had not had better instructions to shun the sin of +pride." + +Radisson saw that apparent compliance with the Mohawks might win him a +chance to escape; so he was the first to arise in the morning, wakening +the others and urging them that it was time to break camp. The stolid +Indians were not to be moved by an audacious white boy. Watching the +young prisoner, the keepers lay still, feigning sleep. Radisson rose. +They made no protest. He wandered casually down to the water side. +One can guess that the half-closed eyelids of his guards opened a +trifle: was the mouse trying to get away from the cat? To the Indians' +amusement, instead of trying to escape, Radisson picked up a spear and +practised tossing it, till a Mohawk became so interested that he jumped +up and taught the young Frenchman the proper throws. That day the +Indians gave him the present of a hunting-knife. North of Lake +Champlain, the river became so turbulent that they were forced to land +and make a _portage_. Instead of lagging, as captives frequently did +from very fear as they approached nearer and nearer what was almost +certain to mean death-torture in the Iroquois villages--Radisson +hurried over the rocks, helping the older warriors to carry their +packs. At night he was the first to cut wood for the camp fire. + +About a week from the time they had left Lake St. Peter, they entered +Lake Champlain. On the shores of the former had been enacted the most +hideous of all Indian customs--the scalp dance. On the shores of the +latter was performed one of the most redeeming rites of Indian warfare. +Round a small pool of water a coppice of branches was interlaced. Into +the water were thrown hot stones till the enclosure was steaming. Here +each warrior took a sweat-bath of purification to prepare for reunion +with his family. Invoking the spirits as they bathed, the warriors +emerged washed--as they thought--of all blood-guilt.[8] + +[Illustration: Map of the Iroquois country in the days of Radisson.] + +In the night shots sounded through the heavy silence of the forest, and +the Mohawks embarked in alarm, compelling their white prisoner to lie +flat in the bottom of the canoe. In the morning when he awakened, he +found the entire band hidden among the rushes of the lake. They spent +several days on Lake Champlain, then glided past wooded mountains down +a calm river to Lake George, where canoes were abandoned and the +warriors struck westward through dense forests to the country of the +Iroquois. Two days from the lake slave women met the returning braves, +and in Radisson's words, "loaded themselves like mules with baggage." +On this woodland march Radisson won golden opinions for himself by two +acts: struck by an insolent young brave, he thrashed the culprit +soundly; seeing an old man staggering under too heavy a load, the white +youth took the burden on his own shoulders. + +The return of the warriors to their villages was always celebrated as a +triumph. The tribe marched out to meet them, singing, firing guns, +shouting a welcome, dancing as the Israelites danced of old when +victors returned from battle. Men, women, and children lined up on +each side armed with clubs and whips to scourge the captives. Well for +Radisson that he had won the warriors' favor; for when the time came +for him to run the gantlet of Iroquois _diableries_, instead of being +slowly led, with trussed arms and shackled feet, he was stripped free +and signalled to run so fast that his tormentors could not hit him. +Shrieks of laughter from the women, shouts of applause from the men, +always greeted the racer who reached the end of the line unscathed. A +captive Huron woman, who had been adopted by the tribe, caught the +white boy as he dashed free of a single blow clear through the lines of +tormentors. Leading him to her cabin, she fed and clothed him. +Presently a band of braves marched up, demanded the surrender of +Radisson, and took him to the Council Lodge of the Iroquois for +judgment. + +Old men sat solemnly round a central fire, smoking their calumets in +silence. Radisson was ordered to sit down. A coal of fire was put in +the bowl of the great Council Pipe and passed reverently round the +assemblage. Then the old Huron woman entered, gesticulating and +pleading for the youth's life. The men smoked on silently with deep, +guttural "ho-ho's," meaning "yes, yes, we are pleased." The woman was +granted permission to adopt Radisson as a son. Radisson had won his +end. Diplomacy and courage had saved his life. It now remained to +await an opportunity for escape. + +Radisson bent all his energies to become a great hunter. He was given +firearms, and daily hunted with the family of his adoption. It so +happened that the family had lost a son in the wars, whose name had +signified the same as Radisson's--that is, "a stone"; so the Pierre of +Three Rivers became the Orimha of the Mohawks. The Iroquois husband of +the woman who had befriended him gave such a feast to the Mohawk braves +as befitted the prestige of a warrior who had slain nineteen enemies +with his own hand. Three hundred young Mohawks sat down to a collation +of moose nose and beaver tails and bears' paws, served by slaves. To +this banquet Radisson was led, decked out in colored blankets with +garnished leggings and such a wealth of wampum strings hanging from +wrists, neck, hair, and waist that he could scarcely walk. Wampum +means more to the Indian than money to the white man. It represents +not only wealth but social standing, and its value may be compared to +the white man's estimate of pink pearls. Diamond-cutters seldom spend +more than two weeks in polishing a good stone. An Indian would spend +thirty days in perfecting a single bit of shell into fine wampum. +Radisson's friends had ornamented him for the feast in order to win the +respect of the Mohawks for the French boy. Striking his hatchet +through a kettle of sagamite to signify thus would he break peace to +all Radisson's foes, the old Iroquois warrior made a speech to the +assembled guests. The guests clapped their hands and shouted, "Chagon, +Orimha!--Be merry, Pierre!" The Frenchman had been formally adopted as +a Mohawk. + + +The forests were now painted in all the glories of autumn. All the +creatures of the woodlands shook off the drowsy laziness of summer and +came down from the uplands seeking haunts for winter retreat. Moose +and deer were on the move. Beaver came splashing down-stream to +plaster up their wattled homes before frost. Bear and lynx and marten, +all were restless as the autumn winds instinct with coming storm. This +is the season when the Indian sets out to hunt and fight. Furnished +with clothing, food, and firearms, Radisson left the Mohawk Valley with +three hunters. By the middle of August, the rind of the birch is in +perfect condition for peeling. The first thing the hunters did was to +slit off the bark of a thick-girthed birch and with cedar linings make +themselves a skiff. Then they prepared to lay up a store of meat for +the winter's war-raids. Before ice forms a skim across the still +pools, nibbled chips betray where a beaver colony is at work; so the +hunters began setting beaver traps. One night as they were returning +to their wigwam, there came through the leafy darkness the weird sound +of a man singing. It was a solitary Algonquin captive, who called out +that he had been on the track of a bear since daybreak. He probably +belonged to some well-known Iroquois, for he was welcomed to the +camp-fire. The sight of a face from Three Rivers roused the +Algonquin's memories of his northern home. In the noise of the +crackling fire, he succeeded in telling Radisson, without being +overheard by the Iroquois, that he had been a captive for two years and +longed to escape. + +"Do you love the French?" the Algonquin asked Radisson. + +"Do you love the Algonquin?" returned Radisson, knowing they were +watched. + +"As I do my own nation." Then leaning across to Radisson, +"Brother--white man!--Let us escape! The Three Rivers--it is not far +off! Will you live like a Huron in bondage, or have your liberty with +the French?" Then, lowering his voice, "Let us kill all three this +night when they are asleep!" + +From such a way of escape, the French youth held back. The Algonquin +continued to urge him. By this time, Radisson must have heard from +returning Iroquois warriors that they had slain the governor of Three +Rivers, Duplessis-Kerbodot, and eleven other Frenchmen, among whom was +the husband of Radisson's eldest sister, Marguerite.[9] + +While Radisson was still hesitating, the suspicious Iroquois demanded +what so much whispering was about; but the alert Algonquin promptly +quieted their fears by trumping up some hunting story. Wearied from +their day's hunt, the three Mohawks slept heavily round the camp-fire. +They had not the least suspicion of danger, for they had stacked their +arms carelessly against the trees of the forest. Terrified lest the +Algonquin should attempt to carry out his threat, Radisson pretended to +be asleep. Rising noiselessly, the Algonquin sat down by the fire. +The Mohawks slept on. The Algonquin gave Radisson a push. The French +boy looked up to see the Algonquin studying the postures of the +sleeping forms. The dying fire glimmered like a blotch of blood under +the trees. Stepping stealthy as a cat over the sleeping men, the +Indian took possession of their firearms. Drawn by a kind of horror, +Radisson had risen. The Algonquin thrust one of the tomahawks into the +French lad's hands and pointed without a word at the three sleeping +Mohawks. Then the Indian began the black work. The Mohawk nearest the +fire never knew that he had been struck, and died without a sound. +Radisson tried to imitate the relentless Algonquin, but, unnerved with +horror, he bungled the blow and lost hold of the hatchet just as it +struck the Mohawk's head. The Iroquois sprang up with a shout that +awakened the third man, but the Algonquin was ready. Radisson's blow +proved fatal. The victim reeled back dead, and the third man was +already despatched by the Algonquin. + +Radisson was free. It was a black deed that freed him, but not half so +black as the deeds perpetrated in civilized wars for less cause; and +for that deed Radisson was to pay swift retribution. + +Taking the scalps as trophies to attest his word, the Algonquin threw +the bodies into the river. He seized all the belongings of the dead +men but one gun and then launched out with Radisson on the river. The +French youth was conscience-stricken. "I was sorry to have been in +such an encounter," he writes, "but it was too late to repent." Under +cover of the night mist and shore foliage, they slipped away with the +current. At first dawn streak, while the mist still hid them, they +landed, carried their canoe to a sequestered spot in the dense forest, +and lay hidden under the upturned skiff all that day, tormented by +swarms of mosquitoes and flies, but not daring to move from +concealment. At nightfall, they again launched down-stream, keeping +always in the shadows of the shore till mist and darkness shrouded +them, then sheering off for mid-current, where they paddled for dear +life. Where camp-fires glimmered on the banks, they glided past with +motionless paddles. Across Lake Champlain, across the Richelieu, over +long _portages_ where every shadow took the shape of an ambushed +Iroquois, for fourteen nights they travelled, when at last with many +windings and false alarms they swept out on the wide surface of Lake +St. Peter in the St. Lawrence. + +Within a day's journey of Three Rivers, they were really in greater +danger than they had been in the forests of Lake Champlain. Iroquois +had infested that part of the St. Lawrence for more than a year. The +forest of the south shore, the rush-grown marshes, the wooded islands, +all afforded impenetrable hiding. It was four in the morning when they +reached Lake St. Peter. Concealing their canoe, they withdrew to the +woods, cooked their breakfast, covered the fire, and lay down to sleep. +In a couple of hours the Algonquin impatiently wakened Radisson and +urged him to cross the lake to the north shore on the Three Rivers +side. Radisson warned the Indian that the Iroquois were ever lurking +about Three Rivers. The Indian would not wait till sunset. "Let us +go," he said. "We are past fear. Let us shake off the yoke of these +whelps that have killed so many French and black robes (priests). . . . +If you come not now that we are so near, I leave you, and will tell the +governor you were afraid to come." + +Radisson's judgment was overruled by the impatient Indian. They pushed +their skiff out from the rushes. The water lay calm as a sea of +silver. They paddled directly across to get into hiding on the north +shore. Halfway across Radisson, who was at the bow, called out that he +saw shadows on the water ahead. The Indian stood up and declared that +the shadow was the reflection of a flying bird. Barely had they gone a +boat length when the shadows multiplied. They were the reflections of +Iroquois ambushed among the rushes. Heading the canoe back for the +south shore, they raced for their lives. The Iroquois pursued in their +own boats. About a mile from the shore, the strength of the fugitives +fagged. Knowing that the Iroquois were gaining fast, Radisson threw +out the loathsome scalps that the Algonquin had persisted in carrying. +By that strange fatality which seems to follow crime, instead of +sinking, the hairy scalps floated on the surface of the water back to +the pursuing Iroquois. Shouts of rage broke from the warriors. +Radisson's skiff was so near the south shore that he could see the +pebbled bottom of the lake; but the water was too deep to wade and too +clear for a dive, and there was no driftwood to afford hiding. Then a +crash of musketry from the Iroquois knocked the bottom out of the +canoe. The Algonquin fell dead with two bullet wounds in his head and +the canoe gradually filled, settled, and sank, with the young Frenchman +clinging to the cross-bar mute as stone. Just as it disappeared under +water, Radisson was seized, and the dead Algonquin was thrown into the +Mohawk boats. + +Radisson alone remained to pay the penalty of a double crime; and he +might well have prayed for the boat to sink. The victors shouted their +triumph. Hurrying ashore, they kindled a great fire. They tore the +heart from the dead Algonquin, transfixed the head on a pike, and cast +the mutilated body into the flames for those cannibal rites in which +savages thought they gained courage by eating the flesh of their +enemies. Radisson was rifled of clothes and arms, trussed at the +elbows, roped round the waist, and driven with blows back to the +canoes. There were other captives among the Mohawks. As the canoes +emerged from the islands, Radisson counted one hundred and fifty +Iroquois warriors, with two French captives, one white woman, and +seventeen Hurons. Flaunting from the canoe prows were the scalps of +eleven Algonquins. The victors fired off their muskets and shouted +defiance until the valley rang. As the seventy-five canoes turned up +the Richelieu River for the country of the Iroquois, hope died in the +captive Hurons and there mingled with the chant of the Mohawks' +war-songs, the low monotonous dirge of the prisoners:-- + + "If I die, I die valiant! + I go without fear + To that land where brave men + Have gone long before me-- + If I die, I die valiant." + +Twelve miles up the Richelieu, the Iroquois landed to camp. The +prisoners were pegged out on the sand, elbows trussed to knees, each +captive tied to a post. In this fashion they lay every night of +encampment, tortured by sand-flies that they were powerless to drive +off. At the entrance to the Mohawk village, a yoke was fastened to the +captives' necks by placing pairs of saplings one on each side down the +line of prisoners. By the rope round the waist of the foremost +prisoner, they were led slowly between the lines of tormentors. The +captives were ordered to sing. If one refused or showed fear, a Mohawk +struck off a finger with a hatchet, or tore the prisoners' nails out, +or thrust red-hot irons into the muscles of the bound arms.[10] As +Radisson appeared, he was recognized with shouts of rage by the friends +of the murdered Mohawks. Men, women, and children armed with rods and +skull-crackers--leather bags loaded with stones--rushed on the slowly +moving file of prisoners. + +"They began to cry from both sides," says Radisson; "we marching one +after another, environed with people to witness that hideous sight, +which seriously may be called the image of Hell in this world." + +The prisoners moved mournfully on. The Hurons chanted their death +dirge. The Mohawk women uttered screams of mockery. Suddenly there +broke from the throng of onlookers the Iroquois family that had adopted +Radisson. Pushing through the crew of torturers, the mother caught +Radisson by the hair, calling him by the name of her dead son, "Orimha! +Orimha!" She cut the thongs that bound him to the poles, and wresting +him free shoved him to her husband, who led Radisson to their own lodge. + +"Thou fool," cried the old chief, "thou wast my son! Thou makest +thyself an enemy! Thou lovest us not, though we saved thy life! +Wouldst kill me, too?" Then, with a rough push to a mat on the ground, +"Chagon--now, be merry! It's a merry business you've got into! Give +him something to eat!" + +Trembling with fear, young Radisson put as bold a face on as he could +and made a show of eating what the squaw placed before him. He was +still relating his adventures when there came a roar of anger from the +Mohawks outside, who had discovered his absence from the line. A +moment later the rabble broke into the lodge. Jostling the friendly +chief aside, the Mohawk warriors carried Radisson back to the orgies of +the torture. The prisoners had been taken out of the stocks and placed +on several scaffoldings. One poor Frenchman fell to the ground bruised +and unable to rise. The Iroquois tore the scalp from his head and +threw him into the fire. That was Radisson's first glimpse of what was +in store for him. Then he, too, stood on the scaffolding among the +other prisoners, who never ceased singing their death song. In the +midst of these horrors--_diableries_, the Jesuits called them--as if +the very elements had been moved with pity, there burst over the +darkened forest a terrific hurricane of hail and rain. This put out +the fires and drove all the tormentors away but a few impish children, +who stayed to pluck nails from the hands and feet of the captives and +shoot arrows with barbed points at the naked bodies. Every iniquity +that cruelty could invent, these children practised on the captives. +Red-hot spears were brought from the lodge fires and thrust into the +prisoners. The mutilated finger ends were ground between stones. +Thongs were twisted round wrists and ankles, by sticks put through a +loop, till flesh was cut to the bone. As the rain ceased falling, a +woman, who was probably the wife of one of the murdered Mohawks, +brought her little boy to cut one of Radisson's fingers with a flint +stone. The child was too young and ran away from the gruesome task. + +Gathering darkness fell over the horrible spectacle. The exhausted +captives, some in a delirium from pain, others unconscious, were led to +separate lodges, or dragged over the ground, and left tied for the +night. The next morning all were returned to the scaffolds, but the +first day had glutted the Iroquois appetite for tortures. The friendly +family was permitted to approach Radisson. The mother brought him food +and told him that the Council Lodge had decided not to kill him for +that day--they wanted the young white warrior for their own ranks; but +even as the cheering hope was uttered, came a brave with a pipe of live +coals, in which he thrust and held Radisson's thumb. No sooner had the +tormentor left than the woman bound up the burn and oiled Radisson's +wounds. He suffered no abuse that day till night, when the soles of +both feet were burned. The majority of the captives were flung into a +great bonfire. On the third day of torture he almost lost his life. +First came a child to gnaw at his fingers. Then a man appeared armed +for the ghastly work of mutilation. Both these the Iroquois father of +Radisson sent away. Once, when none of the friendly family happened to +be near, Radisson was seized and bound for burning, but by chance the +lighted faggot scorched his executioner. A friendly hand slashed the +thongs that bound him, and he was drawn back to the scaffold. + +Past caring whether he lived or died, and in too great agony from the +burns of his feet to realize where he was going, Radisson was conducted +to the Great Council. Sixty old men sat on a circle of mats, smoking, +round the central fire. Before them stood seven other captives. +Radisson only was still bound. A gust of wind from the opening lodge +door cleared the smoke for an instant and there entered Radisson's +Indian father, clad in the regalia of a mighty chief. Tomahawk and +calumet and medicine-bag were in his hands. He took his place in the +circle of councillors. Judgment was to be given on the remaining +prisoners. + +After passing the Council Pipe from hand to hand in solemn silence, the +sachems prepared to give their views. One arose, and offering the +smoke of incense to the four winds of heaven to invoke witness to the +justice of the trial, gave his opinion on the matter of life or death. +Each of the chiefs in succession spoke. Without any warning whatever, +one chief rose and summarily tomahawked three of the captives. That +had been the sentence. The rest were driven, like sheep for the +shambles, to life-long slavery. + +Radisson was left last. His case was important. He had sanctioned the +murder of three Mohawks. Not for a moment since he was recaptured had +they dared to untie the hands of so dangerous a prisoner. Amid deathly +silence, the Iroquois father stood up. Flinging down medicine-bag, fur +robe, wampum belts, and tomahawk, he pointed to the nineteen scars upon +his side, each of which signified an enemy slain by his own hand. Then +the old Mohawk broke into one of those impassioned rhapsodies of +eloquence which delighted the savage nature, calling back to each of +the warriors recollection of victories for the Iroquois. His eyes took +fire from memory of heroic battle. The councillors shook off their +imperturbable gravity and shouted "Ho, ho!" Each man of them had a +memory of his part in those past glories. And as they applauded, there +glided into the wigwam the mother, singing some battle-song of valor, +dancing and gesticulating round and round the lodge in dizzy, +serpentine circlings, that illustrated in pantomime those battles of +long ago. Gliding ghostily from the camp-fire to the outer dark, she +suddenly stopped, stood erect, advanced a step, and with all her might +threw one belt of priceless wampum at the councillors' feet, one +necklace over the prisoner's head. + +Before the applause could cease or the councillors' ardor cool, the +adopted brother sprang up, hatchet in hand, and sang of other +victories. Then, with a delicacy of etiquette which white pleaders do +not always observe, father and son withdrew from the Council Lodge to +let the jury deliberate. The old sachems were disturbed. They had +been moved more than their wont. Twenty withdrew to confer. Dusk +gathered deeper and deeper over the forests of the Mohawk Valley. +Tawny faces came peering at the doors, waiting for the decision. +Outsiders tore the skins from the walls of the lodge that they, too, +might witness the memorable trial of the boy prisoner. Sachem after +sachem rose and spoke. Tobacco was sacrificed to the fire-god. Would +the relatives of the dead Mohawks consider the wampum belts full +compensation? Could the Iroquois suffer a youth to live who had joined +the murderers of the Mohawks? Could the Mohawks afford to offend the +great Iroquois chief who was the French youth's friend? As they +deliberated, the other councillors returned, accompanied by all the +members of Radisson's friendly family. Again the father sang and +spoke. This time when he finished, instead of sitting down, he caught +the necklace of wampum from Radisson's neck, threw it at the feet of +the oldest sachem, cut the captive's bonds, and, amid shouts of +applause, set the white youth free. + + +One of the incomprehensible things to civilization is how a white man +_can_ degenerate to savagery. Young Radisson's life is an +illustration. In the first transports of his freedom, with the Mohawk +women dancing and singing around him, the men shouting, he leaped up, +oblivious of pain; but when the flush of ecstasy had passed, he sank to +the mat of the Iroquois lodge, and he was unable to use his burned feet +for more than a month. During this time the Iroquois dressed his +wounds, brought him the choice portions of the hunt, gave him clean +clothing purchased at Orange (Albany), and attended to his wants as if +he had been a prince. No doubt the bright eyes of the swarthy young +French boy moved to pity the hearts of the Mohawk mothers, and his +courage had won him favor among the warriors. He was treated like a +king. The women waited upon him like slaves, and the men gave him +presents of firearms and ammunition--the Indian's most precious +possessions. Between flattered vanity and indolence, other white men, +similarly treated, have lost their self-respect. Beckworth, of the +Missouri, became to all intents and purposes a savage; and Bird, of the +Blackfeet, degenerated lower than the Indians. Other Frenchmen +captured from the St. Lawrence, and white women taken from the New +England colonies, became so enamored of savage life that they refused +to leave the Indian lodges when peace had liberated them. Not so +Radisson. Though only seventeen, flattered vanity never caused him to +forget the gratitude he owed the Mohawk family. Though he relates his +life with a frankness that leaves nothing untold, he never at any time +returned treachery for kindness. The very chivalry of the French +nature endangered him all the more. Would he forget his manhood, his +birthright of a superior race, his inheritance of nobility from a +family that stood foremost among the _noblesse_ of New France? + +[Illustration: Albany, from an Old Print.] + + +The spring of 1653 came with unloosening of the rivers and stirring of +the forest sap and fret of the warrior blood. Radisson's Iroquois +father held great feasts in which he heaved up the hatchet to break the +kettle of sagamite against all enemies. Would Radisson go on the +war-path with the braves, or stay at home with the women and so lose +the respect of the tribe? In the hope of coming again within reach of +Three Rivers, he offered to join the Iroquois in their wars. The +Mohawks were delighted with his spirit, but they feared to lose their +young warrior. Accepting his offer, they refused to let him accompany +them to Quebec, but assigned him to a band of young braves, who were to +raid the border-lands between the Huron country of the Upper Lakes and +the St. Lawrence. This was not what Radisson wanted, but he could not +draw back. There followed months of wild wanderings round the regions +of Niagara. The band of young braves passed dangerous places with +great precipices and a waterfall, where the river was a mile wide and +unfrozen. Radisson was constrained to witness many acts against the +Eries, which must have one of two effects on white blood,--either turn +the white man into a complete savage, or disgust him utterly with +savage life. Leaving the Mohawk village amid a blare of guns and +shouts, the young braves on their maiden venture passed successively +through the lodges of Oneidas, Onondagas, Senecas, and Cayugas, where +they were feasted almost to death by the Iroquois Confederacy.[11] +Then they marched to the vast wilderness of snow-padded forests and +heaped windfall between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie. + +Snow still lay in great drifts under the shadow of hemlock and spruce; +and the braves skimmed forward winged with the noiseless speed of +snow-shoes. When the snow became too soft from thaw for snow-shoes, +they paused to build themselves a skiff. It was too early to peel the +bark off the birch, so they made themselves a dugout of the walnut +tree. The wind changed from north to south, clearing the lakes of ice +and filling the air with the earthy smells of up-bursting growth. +"There was such a thawing," writes Radisson, "ye little brookes flowed +like rivers, which made us embark to wander over that sweet sea." +Lounging in their skiff all day, carried from shore to shore with the +waves, and sleeping round camp-fires on the sand each night, the young +braves luxuriated in all the delights of sunny idleness and spring +life. But this was not war. It was play, and play of the sort that +weans the white man from civilization to savagery. + +One day a scout, who had climbed to the top of a tree, espied two +strange squaws. They were of a hostile tribe. The Mohawk bloodthirst +was up as a wolf's at the sight of lambs. In vain Radisson tried to +save the women by warning the Iroquois that if there were women, there +must be men, too, who would exact vengeance for the squaws' death. The +young braves only laid their plans the more carefully for his warning +and massacred the entire encampment. Prisoners were taken, but when +food became scarce they were brutally knocked on the head. These +tribes had never heard guns before, and at the sound of shots fled as +from diabolical enemies. It was an easy matter for the young braves in +the course of a few weeks to take a score of scalps and a dozen +prisoners. At one place more than two hundred beaver were trapped. At +the end of the raid, the booty was equally divided. Radisson asked +that the woman prisoner be given to him; and he saved her from torture +and death on the return to the Mohawks by presenting her as a slave to +his Indian mother. All his other share of booty he gave to the +friendly family. The raid was over. He had failed of his main object +in joining it. He had not escaped. But he had made one important +gain. His valor had reestablished the confidence of the Indians so +that when they went on a free-booting expedition against the whites of +the Dutch settlements at Orange (Albany), Radisson was taken with them. +Orange, or Albany, consisted at that time of some fifty thatched +log-houses surrounded by a settlement of perhaps a hundred and fifty +farmers. This raid was bloodless. The warriors looted the farmers' +cabins, emptied their cupboards, and drank their beer cellars dry to +the last drop. Once more Radisson kept his head. While the braves +entered Fort Orange roaring drunk, Radisson was alert and sober. A +drunk Indian falls an easy prey in the bartering of pelts. The +Iroquois wanted guns. The Dutch wanted pelts. The whites treated the +savages like kings; and the Mohawks marched from house to house +feasting of the best. Radisson was dressed in garnished buckskin and +had been painted like a Mohawk. Suspecting some design to escape, his +Iroquois friends never left him. The young Frenchman now saw white men +for the first time in almost two years; but the speech that he heard +was in a strange tongue. As Radisson went into the fort, he noticed a +soldier among the Dutch. At the same instant the soldier recognized +him as a Frenchman, and oblivious of the Mohawks' presence blurted out +his discovery in Iroquois dialect, vowing that for all the paint and +grease, this youth was a white man below. The fellow's blundering +might have cost Radisson's life; but the youth had not been a captive +among crafty Mohawks for nothing. Radisson feigned surprise at the +accusation. That quieted the Mohawk suspicions and they were presently +deep in the beer pots of the Dutch. Again the soldier spoke, this time +in French. It was the first time that Radisson had heard his native +tongue for months. He answered in French. At that the soldier emitted +shouts of delight, for he, too, was French, and these strangers in an +alien land threw their arms about each other like a pair of long-lost +brothers with exclamations of joy too great for words. + +[Illustration: The Battery, New York, in Radisson's Time.] + +From that moment Radisson became the lion of Fort Orange. The women +dragged him to their houses and forced more dainties on him than he +could eat. He was conducted from house to house in triumph, to the +amazed delight of the Indians. The Dutch offered to ransom him at any +price; but that would have exposed the Dutch settlement to the +resentment of the Mohawks and placed Radisson under heavy obligation to +people who were the enemies of New France. Besides, his honor was +pledged to return to his Indian parents; and it was a long way home to +have to sail to Europe and back again to Quebec. Perhaps, too, there +was deep in his heart what he did not realize--a rooted love for the +wilds that was to follow him all through life. By the devious course +of captivity, he had tasted of a new freedom and could not give it up. +He declined the offer of the Dutch. In two days he was back among the +Mohawks ten times more a hero than he had ever been. Mother and +sisters were his slaves. + +But between love of the wilds and love of barbarism is a wide +difference. He had not been back for two weeks when that glimpse of +crude civilization at Orange recalled torturing memories of the French +home in Three Rivers. The filthy food, the smoky lodges, the cruelties +of the Mohawks, filled him with loathing. The nature of the white man, +which had been hidden under the grease and paint of the savage--and in +danger of total eclipse--now came upper-most. With Radisson, to think +was to act. He determined to escape if it cost him his life. + +Taking only a hatchet as if he were going to cut wood, Radisson left +the Indian lodge early one morning in the fall of 1653. Once out of +sight from the village, he broke into a run, following the trail +through the dense forests of the Mohawk Valley toward Fort Orange. On +and on he ran, all that day, without pause to rest or eat, without +backward glance, with eye ever piercing through the long leafy vistas +of the forest on the watch for the fresh-chipped bark of the trees that +guided his course, or the narrow indurated path over the spongy mould +worn by running warriors. And when night filled the forest with the +hoot of owl, and the far, weird cries of wild creatures on the rove, +there sped through the aisled columns of star light and shadow, the +ghostly figure of the French boy slim, and lithe as a willow, with +muscles tense as ironwood, and step silent as the mountain-cat. All +that night he ran without a single stop. Chill daybreak found him +still staggering on, over rocks slippery with the night frost, over +windfall tree on tree in a barricade, through brawling mountain brooks +where his moccasins broke the skim of ice at the edge, past rivers +where he half waded, half swam. He was now faint from want of food; +but fear spurred him on. The morning air was so cold that he found it +better to run than rest. By four of the afternoon he came to a +clearing in the forest, where was the cabin of a settler. A man was +chopping wood. Radisson ascertained that there were no Iroquois in the +cabin, and, hiding in it, persuaded the settler to carry a message to +Fort Orange, two miles farther on. While he waited Indians passed the +cabin, singing and shouting. The settler's wife concealed him behind +sacks of wheat and put out all lights. Within an hour came a rescue +party from Orange, who conducted him safely to the fort. For three +days Radisson hid in Orange, while the Mohawks wandered through the +fort, calling him by name. + +Gifts of money from the Jesuit, Poncet, and from a Dutch merchant, +enabled Radisson to take ship from Orange to New York, and from New +York to Europe. + +[Illustration: Fort Amsterdam, from an ancient engraving executed in +Holland. This view of Fort Amsterdam on the Manhattan is copied from +an ancient engraving executed in Holland. The fort was erected in 1623 +but finished upon the above model by Governor Van Twiller in 1635.] + +Pere Poncet had been captured by the Mohawks the preceding summer, but +had escaped to Orange.[12] Embarking on a small sloop, Radisson sailed +down the Hudson to New York, which then consisted of some five hundred +houses, with stores, barracks, a stone church, and a dilapidated fort. +Central Park was a forest; goats and cows pastured on what is now Wall +Street; and to east and west was a howling wilderness of marsh and +woods. After a stay of three weeks, Radisson embarked for Amsterdam, +which he reached in January, 1654. + + +[1] Benjamin Sulte in _Chronique Trifluvienne_. + +[2] It was in August of this same year, 1652, that the governor of +Three Rivers was slain by the Iroquois. Parkman gives this date, 1653, +Garneau, 1651, L'Abbe Tanguay, 1651; Dollier de Casson, 1651, Belmont, +1653. Sulte gives the name of the governor Duplessis-Kerbodot, not +Bochart, as given in Parkman. + +[3] Dr. Bryce has unearthed the fact that in a petition to the House of +Commons, 1698, Radisson sets down his age as sixty-two. This gives the +year of his birth as 1636. On the other hand, Sulte has record of a +Pierre Radisson registered at Quebec in 1681, aged fifty-one, which +would make him slightly older, if it is the same Radisson. Mr. Sulte's +explanation is as follows: Sebastien Hayet of St. Malo married Madeline +Henault. Their daughter Marguerite married Chouart, known as +Groseillers. Madeline Henault then married Pierre Esprit Radisson of +Paris, whose children were Pierre, our hero, and two daughters. + +[4] A despatch from M. Talon in 1666 shows there were 461 families in +Three Rivers. State papers from the Minister to M. Frontenac in 1674 +show there were only 6705 French in all the colony. Averaging five a +family, there must have been 2000 people at Three Rivers. Fear of the +Iroquois must have driven the country people inside the fort, so that +the population enrolled was larger than the real population of Three +Rivers. Sulte gives the normal population of Three Rivers in 1654 as +38 married couples, 13 bachelors, 38 boys, 26 girls--in all not 200. + +[5] At first flush, this seems a slip in _Radisson's Relation_. Where +did the Mohawks get their guns? _New York Colonial Documents_ show +that between 1640 and 1650 the Dutch at Fort Orange had supplied the +Mohawks alone with four hundred guns. + +[6] One of many instances of Radisson's accuracy in detail. All tribes +have a trick of browning food on hot stones or sand that has been taken +from fire. The Assiniboines gained their name from this practice: they +were the users of "boiling stones." + +[7] I have asked both natives and old fur-traders what combination of +sounds in English most closely resembles the Indian war-cry, and they +have all given the words that I have quoted. One daughter of a chief +factor, who went through a six weeks' siege by hostiles in her father's +fort, gave a still more graphic description. She said: "you can +imagine the snarls of a pack of furiously vicious dogs saying 'ah-oh' +with a whoop, you have it; and you will not forget it!" + +[8] This practice was a binding law on many tribes. Catlin relates it +of the Mandans, and Hearne of the Chipewyans. The latter considered it +a crime to kiss wives and children after a massacre without the bath of +purification. Could one know where and when that universal custom of +washing blood-guilt arose, one mystery of existence would be unlocked. + +[9] I have throughout followed Mr. Sulte's correction of the name of +this governor. The mistake followed by Parkman, Tanguay, and +others--it seems--was first made in 1820, and has been faithfully +copied since. Elsewhere will be found Mr. Sulte's complete elucidation +of the hopeless dark in which all writers have involved Radisson's +family. + +[10] If there were not corroborative testimony, one might suspect the +excited French lad of gross exaggeration in his account of Iroquois +tortures; but the Jesuits more than confirm the worst that Radisson +relates. Bad as these torments were, they were equalled by the deeds +of white troops from civilized cities in the nineteenth century. A +band of Montana scouts came on the body of a comrade horribly mutilated +by the Indians. They caught the culprits a few days afterwards. +Though the government report has no account of what happened, traders +say the bodies of the guilty Indians were found skinned and scalped by +the white troops. + +[11] Radisson puts the Senecas before the Cayugas, which is different +from the order given by the Jesuits. + +[12] The fact that Radisson confessed his sins to this priest seems +pretty well to prove that Pierre was a Catholic and not a Protestant, +as has been so often stated. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +1657-1658 + +RADISSON'S SECOND VOYAGE + +Radisson returns to Quebec, where he joins the Jesuits to go to the +Iroquois Mission--He witnesses the Massacre of the Hurons among the +Thousand Islands--Besieged by the Iroquois, they pass the Winter as +Prisoners of War--Conspiracy to massacre the French foiled by Radisson. + + +From Amsterdam Radisson took ship to Rochelle. Here he found himself a +stranger in his native land. All his kin of whom there is any +record--Pierre Radisson, his father, Madeline Henault, his mother, +Marguerite and Francoise, his elder and younger sisters, his uncle and +aunt, with their daughter, Elizabeth--were now living at Three Rivers +in New France.[1] Embarking with the fishing fleet that yearly left +France for the Grand Banks, Radisson came early in the spring of 1654 +to Isle Percee at the mouth of the St. Lawrence. He was still a week's +journey from Three Rivers, but chance befriended him. Algonquin canoes +were on the way up the river to war on the Iroquois. Joining the +Indian canoes, he slipped past the hilly shores of the St. Lawrence and +in five days was between the main bank on the north side and the muddy +shallows of the Isle of Orleans. Sheering out where the Montmorency +roars over a precipice in a shining cataract, the canoes glided across +St. Charles River among the forests of masts heaving to the tide below +the beetling heights of Cape Diamond, Quebec. + +[Illustration: One of the earliest maps of the Great Lakes.] + +It was May, 1651, when he had first seen the turrets and spires of +Quebec glittering on the hillside in the sun; it was May, 1652, that +the Iroquois had carried him off from Three Rivers; and it was May, +1654, when he came again to his own. He was welcomed back as from the +dead. Changes had taken place in the interval of his captivity. A +truce had been arranged between the Iroquois and the French. Now that +the Huron missions had been wiped out by Iroquois wars, the Jesuits +regarded the truce as a Divine provision for a mission among the +Iroquois. The year that Radisson escaped from the Mohawks, Jesuit +priests had gone among them. A still greater change that was to affect +his life more vitally had taken place in the Radisson family. The year +that Radisson had been captured, the outraged people of Three Rivers +had seized a Mohawk chief and burned him to death. In revenge, the +Mohawks murdered the governor of Three Rivers and a company of +Frenchmen. Among the slain was the husband of Radisson's sister, +Marguerite. When Radisson returned, he found that his widowed sister +had married Medard Chouart Groseillers, a famous fur trader of New +France, who had passed his youth as a lay helper to the Jesuit missions +of Lake Huron.[2] Radisson was now doubly bound to the Jesuits by +gratitude and family ties. Never did pagan heart hear an evangel more +gladly than the Mohawks heard the Jesuits. The priests were welcomed +with acclaim, led to the Council Lodge, and presented with belts of +wampum. Not a suspicion of foul play seems to have entered the +Jesuits' mind. When the Iroquois proposed to incorporate into the +Confederacy the remnants of the Hurons, the Jesuits discerned nothing +in the plan but the most excellent means to convert pagan Iroquois by +Christian Hurons. Having gained an inch, the Iroquois demanded the +proverbial ell. They asked that a French settlement be made in the +Iroquois country. The Indians wanted a supply of firearms to war +against all enemies; and with a French settlement miles away from help, +the Iroquois could wage what war they pleased against the Algonquins +without fear of reprisals from Quebec--the settlement of white men +among hostiles would be hostage of generous treatment from New France. +Of these designs, neither priests nor governor had the slightest +suspicion. The Jesuits were thinking only of the Iroquois' soul; the +French, of peace with the Iroquois at any cost. + +In 1656 Major Dupuis and fifty Frenchmen had established a French +colony among the Iroquois.[3] The hardships of these pioneers form no +part of Radisson's life, and are, therefore, not set down here. Peace +not bought by a victory is an unstable foundation for Indian treaty. +The Mohawks were jealous that their confederates, the Onondagas, had +obtained the French settlement. In 1657, eighty Iroquois came to +Quebec to escort one hundred Huron refugees back to Onondaga for +adoption into the Confederacy. These Hurons were Christians, and the +two Jesuits, Paul Ragueneau and Francois du Peron, were appointed to +accompany them to their new abode. Twenty young Frenchmen joined the +party to seek their fortunes at the new settlement; but a man was +needed who could speak Iroquois. Glad to repay his debt to the +Jesuits, young Radisson volunteered to go as a _donne_, that is, a lay +helper vowed to gratuitous services. + +It was midsummer before all preparations had been made. On July 26, +the party of two hundred, made up of twenty Frenchmen, eighty Iroquois, +and a hundred Hurons, filed out of the gates of Montreal, and winding +round the foot of the mountain followed a trail through the forest that +took them past the Lachine Rapids. The Onondaga _voyageurs_ carried +the long birch canoes inverted on their shoulders, two Indians at each +end; and the other Iroquois trotted over the rocks with the Frenchmen's +baggage on their backs. The day was hot, the _portage_ long and +slippery with dank moisture. The Huron children fagged and fell +behind. At nightfall, thirty of the haughty Iroquois lost patience, +and throwing down their bundles made off for Quebec with the avowed +purpose of raiding the Algonquins. On the way, they paused to scalp +three Frenchmen at Montreal, cynically explaining that if the French +persisted in taking Algonquins into their arms, the white men need not +be surprised if the blow aimed at an Algonquin sometimes struck a +Frenchman. That act opened the eyes of the French to the real meaning +of the peace made with the Iroquois; but the little colony was beyond +recall. To insure the safety of the French among the Onondagas, the +French governor at Quebec seized a dozen Iroquois and kept them as +hostages of good conduct. + +Meanwhile, all was confusion on Lake St. Louis, where the last band of +colonists had encamped. The Iroquois had cast the Frenchmen's baggage +on the rocks and refused to carry it farther. Leaving the whites all +embarrassed, the Onondagas hurriedly embarked the Hurons and paddled +quickly out of sight. The act was too suddenly unanimous not to have +been premeditated. Why had the Iroquois carried the Hurons away from +the Frenchmen? Father Ragueneau at once suspected some sinister +purpose. Taking only a single sack of flour for food, he called for +volunteers among the twenty Frenchmen to embark in a leaky, old canoe +and follow the treacherous Onondagas. Young Radisson was one of the +first to offer himself. Six others followed his example; and the seven +Frenchmen led by the priest struck across the lake, leaving the others +to gather up the scattered baggage. + +The Onondagas were too deep to reveal their plots with seven armed +Frenchmen in pursuit. The Indians permitted the French boats to come +up with the main band. All camped together in the most friendly +fashion that night; but the next morning one Iroquois offered passage +in his canoe to one Frenchman, another Iroquois to another of the +whites, and by the third day, when they came to Lake St. Francis, the +old canoe had been abandoned. The French were scattered promiscuously +among the Iroquois, with no two whites in one boat. The Hurons were +quicker to read the signs of treachery than the French. There were +rumors of one hundred Mohawks lying in ambush at the Thousand Islands +to massacre the coming Hurons. On the morning of August 3 four Huron +warriors and two women seized a canoe, and to the great astonishment of +the encampment launched out before they could be stopped. Heading the +canoe back for Montreal, they broke out in a war chant of defiance to +the Iroquois. + +The Onondagas made no sign, but they evidently took council to delay no +longer. Again, when they embarked, they allowed no two whites in one +canoe. The boats spread out. Nothing was said to indicate anything +unusual. The lake lay like a silver mirror in the August sun. The +water was so clear that the Indians frequently paused to spear fish +lying below on the stones. At places the canoes skirted close to the +wood-fringed shore, and braves landed to shoot wild-fowl. Radisson and +Ragueneau seemed simultaneously to have noticed the same thing. +Without any signal, at about four in the afternoon, the Onondagas +steered their canoes for a wooded island in the middle of the St. +Lawrence. With Radisson were three Iroquois and a Huron. As the canoe +grated shore, the bowman loaded his musket and sprang into the thicket. +Naturally, the Huron turned to gaze after the disappearing hunter. +Instantly, the Onondaga standing directly behind buried his hatchet in +the Huron's head. The victim fell quivering across Radisson's feet and +was hacked to pieces by the other Iroquois. Not far along the shore +from Radisson, the priest was landing. He noticed an Iroquois chief +approach a Christian Huron girl. If the Huron had not been a convert, +she might have saved her life by becoming one of the chief's many +slaves; but she had repulsed the Onondaga pagan. As Ragueneau looked, +the girl fell dead with her skull split by the chief's war-axe. The +Hurons on the lake now knew what awaited them; and a cry of terror +arose from the children. Then a silence of numb horror settled over +the incoming canoes. The women were driven ashore like lambs before +wolves; but the valiant Hurons would not die without striking one blow +at their inveterate and treacherous enemies. They threw themselves +together back to back, prepared to fight. For a moment this show of +resistance drove off the Iroquois. Then the Onondaga chieftain rushed +forward, protesting that the two murders had been a personal quarrel. +Striking back his own warriors with a great show of sincerity, he bade +the Hurons run for refuge to the top of the hill. No sooner had the +Hurons broken rank, than there rushed from the woods scores of +Iroquois, daubed in war-paint and shouting their war-cry. This was the +hunt to which the young braves had dashed from the canoes to be in +readiness behind the thicket. Before the scattered Hurons could get +together for defence, the Onondagas had closed around the hilltop in a +cordon. The priest ran here, there, everywhere,--comforting the dying, +stopping mutilation, defending the women. All the Hurons were +massacred but one man, and the bodies were thrown into the river. With +blankets drawn over their heads that they might not see, the women +huddled together, dumb with terror. When the Onondagas turned toward +the women, the Frenchmen stood with muskets levelled. The Onondagas +halted, conferred, and drew off. + +[Illustration: Paddling past Hostiles.] + +The fight lasted for four hours. Darkness and the valor of the little +French band saved the women for the time. The Iroquois kindled a fire +and gathered to celebrate their victory. Then the old priest took his +life in his hands. Borrowing three belts of wampum, he left the +huddling group of Huron women and Frenchmen and marched boldly into the +circle of hostiles. The lives of all the French and Hurons hung by a +thread. Ragueneau had been the spiritual guide of the murdered tribe +for twenty years; and he was now sobbing like a child. The Iroquois +regarded his grief with sardonic scorn; but they misjudged the manhood +below the old priest's tears. Ragueneau asked leave to speak. They +grunted permission. Springing up, he broke into impassioned, fearless +reproaches of the Iroquois for their treachery. Casting one belt of +wampum at the Onondaga chief's feet, the priest demanded pledges that +the massacre cease. A second belt was given to register the Onondaga's +vow to conduct the women and children safely to the Iroquois country. +The third belt was for the safety of the French at Onondaga. + +The Iroquois were astonished. They had looked for womanish pleadings. +They had heard stern demands coupled with fearless threats of +punishment. When Ragueneau sat down, the Onondaga chief bestirred +himself to counteract the priest's powerful impression. Lounging to +his feet, the Onondaga impudently declared that the governor of Quebec +had instigated the massacre. Ragueneau leaped up with a denial that +took the lie from the scoundrel's teeth. The chief sat down abashed. +The Council grunted "Ho, ho!" accepting the wampum and promising all +that the Jesuit had asked. + + +Among the Thousand Islands, the French who had remained behind to +gather up the baggage again joined the Onondagas. They brought with +them from the Isle of Massacres a poor Huron woman, whom they had found +lying insensible on a rock. During the massacre she had hidden in a +hollow tree, where she remained for three days. In this region, +Radisson almost lost his life by hoisting a blanket sail to his canoe. +The wind drifted the boat so far out that Radisson had to throw all +ballast overboard to keep from being swamped. As they turned from the +St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario up the Oswego River for Onondaga, they +met other warriors of the Iroquois nation. In spite of pledges to the +priest, the meeting was celebrated by torturing the Huron women to +entertain the newcomers. Not the sufferings of the early Christians in +Rome exceeded the martyrdom of the Christian Hurons among the +Onondagas. As her mother mounted the scaffold of tortures, a little +girl who had been educated by the Ursulines of Quebec broke out with +loud weeping. The Huron mother turned calmly to the child:-- + +"Weep not my death, my little daughter! We shall this day be in +heaven," said she; "God will pity us to all eternity. The Iroquois +cannot rob us of that." + +As the flames crept about her, her voice was heard chanting in the +crooning monotone of Indian death dirge: "Jesu--have pity on us! +Jesu--have pity on us!" The next moment the child was thrown into the +flames, repeating the same words. + +The Iroquois recognized Radisson. He sent presents to his Mohawk +parents, who afterwards played an important part in saving the French +of Onondaga. Having passed the falls, they came to the French fort +situated on the crest of a hill above a lake. Two high towers +loopholed for musketry occupied the centre of the courtyard. Double +walls, trenched between, ran round a space large enough to enable the +French to keep their cattle inside the fort. The _voyageurs_ were +welcomed to Onondaga by Major Dupuis, fifty Frenchmen, and several +Jesuits. + + +The pilgrims had scarcely settled at Onondaga before signs of the +dangers that were gathering became too plain for the blind zeal of the +Jesuits to ignore. Cayugas, Onondagas, and Senecas, togged out in +war-gear, swarmed outside the palisades. There was no more dissembling +of hunger for the Jesuits' evangel. The warriors spoke no more soft +words, but spent their time feasting, chanting war-songs, heaving up +the war-hatchet against the kettle of sagamite--which meant the rupture +of peace. Then came four hundred Mohawks, who not only shouted their +war-songs, but built their wigwams before the fort gates and +established themselves for the winter like a besieging army. That the +intent of the entire Confederacy was hostile to Onondaga could not be +mistaken; but what was holding the Indians back? Why did they delay +the massacre? Then Huron slaves brought word to the besieged fort of +the twelve Iroquois hostages held at Quebec. The fort understood what +stayed the Iroquois blow. The Confederacy dared not attack the +isolated fort lest Quebec should take terrible vengeance on the +hostages. + +[Illustration: Jogues, the Jesuit missionary, who was tortured by the +Mohawks. From a painting in Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal.] + +The French decided to send messengers to Quebec for instructions before +closing navigation cut them off for the winter. Thirteen men and one +Jesuit left the fort the first week of September. Mohawk spies knew of +the departure and lay in ambush at each side of the narrow river to +intercept the party; but the messengers eluded the trap by striking +through the forests back from the river directly to the St. Lawrence. +Then the little fort closed its gates and awaited an answer from +Quebec. Winter settled over the land, blocking the rivers with ice and +the forest trails with drifts of snow; but no messengers came back from +Quebec. The Mohawks had missed the outgoing scouts: but they caught +the return coureurs and destroyed the letters. Not a soul could leave +the fort but spies dogged his steps. The Jesuits continued going from +lodge to lodge, and in this way Onondaga gained vague knowledge of the +plots outside the fort. The French could venture out only at the risk +of their lives, and spent the winter as closely confined as prisoners +of war. Of the ten drilled soldiers, nine threatened to desert. One +night an unseen hand plunged through the dark, seized the sentry, and +dragged him from the gate. The sentry drew his sword and shouted, "To +arms!" A band of Frenchmen sallied from the gates with swords and +muskets. In the tussle the sentry was rescued, and gifts were sent out +in the morning to pacify the wounded Mohawks. Fortunately the besieged +had plenty of food inside the stockades; but the Iroquois knew there +could be no escape till the ice broke up in spring, and were quite +willing to exchange ample supplies of corn for tobacco and firearms. +The Huron slaves who carried the corn to the fort acted as spies among +the Mohawks for the French. + +In the month of February the vague rumors of conspiracy crystallized +into terrible reality. A dying Mohawk confessed to a Jesuit that the +Iroquois[4] Council had determined to massacre half the company of +French and to hold the other half till their own Mohawk hostages were +released from Quebec. Among the hostiles encamped before the gates was +Radisson's Indian father. This Mohawk was still an influential member +of the Great Council. He, too, reported that the warriors were bent on +destroying Onondaga.[5] What was to be done? No answer had come from +Quebec, and no aid could come till the spring. The rivers were still +blocked with ice; and there were not sufficient boats in the fort to +carry fifty men down to Quebec. "What could we do?" writes Radisson. +"We were in their hands. It was as hard to get away from them as for a +ship in full sea without a pilot." + +They at once began constructing two large flat-bottomed boats of light +enough draft to run the rapids in the flood-tide of spring. Carpenters +worked hidden in an attic; but when the timbers were mortised together, +the boats had to be brought downstairs, where one of the Huron slaves +caught a glimpse of them. Boats of such a size he had never before +seen. Each was capable of carrying fifteen passengers with full +complement of baggage. Spring rains were falling in floods. The +convert Huron had heard the Jesuits tell of Noah's ark in the deluge. +Returning to the Mohawks, he spread a terrifying report of an impending +flood and of strange arks of refuge built by the white men. Emissaries +were appointed to visit the French fort; but the garrison had been +forewarned. Radisson knew of the coming spies from his Indian father; +and the Jesuits had learned of the Council from their converts. Before +the spies arrived, the French had built a floor over their flatboats, +and to cover the fresh floor had heaped up a dozen canoes. The spies +left the fort satisfied that neither a deluge nor an escape was +impending. Birch canoes would be crushed like egg-shells if they were +run through the ice jams of spring floods. Certain that their victims +were trapped, the Iroquois were in no haste to assault a double-walled +fort, where musketry could mow them down as they rushed the hilltop. +The Indian is bravest under cover; so the Mohawks spread themselves in +ambush on each side of the narrow river and placed guards at the falls +where any boats must be _portaged_. + +Of what good were the boats? To allay suspicion of escape, the Jesuits +continued to visit the wigwams.[6] The French were in despair. They +consulted Radisson, who could go among the Mohawks as with a charmed +life, and who knew the customs of the Confederacy so well. Radisson +proposed a way to outwit the savages. With this plan the priests had +nothing to do. To the harum-scarum Radisson belong the sole credit and +discredit of the escapade. On his device hung the lives of fifty +innocent men. These men must either escape or be massacred. Of +bloodshed, Radisson had already seen too much; and the youth of +twenty-one now no more proposed to stickle over the means of victory +than generals who wear the Victoria cross stop to stickle over means +to-day. + +Radisson knew that the Indians had implicit faith in dreams; so +Radisson had a dream.[7] He realized as critics of Indian customs fail +to understand that the fearful privations of savage life teach the +crime of waste. The Indian will eat the last morsel of food set before +him if he dies for it. He believes that the gods punish waste of food +by famine. The belief is a religious principle and the +feasts--_festins a tout manger_--are a religious act; so Radisson +dreamed--whether sleeping or waking--that the white men were to give a +great festival to the Iroquois. This dream he related to his Indian +father. The Indian like his white brother can clothe a vice under +religious mantle. The Iroquois were gluttonous on a religious +principle. Radisson's dream was greeted with joy. _Coureurs_ ran +through the forest, bidding the Mohawks to the feast. Leaving ambush +of forest and waterfall, the warriors hastened to the walls of +Onondaga. To whet their appetite, they were kept waiting outside for +two whole days. The French took turns in entertaining the waiting +guests. Boisterous games, songs, dances, and music kept the Iroquois +awake and hilarious to the evening of the second day. Inside the fort +bedlam reigned. Boats were dragged from floors to a sally-port at the +rear of the courtyard. Here firearms, ammunition, food, and baggage +were placed in readiness. Guns which could not be taken were burned or +broken. Ammunition was scattered in the snow. All the stock but one +solitary pig, a few chickens, and the dogs was sacrificed for the +feast, and in the barracks a score of men were laboring over enormous +kettles of meat. Had an Indian spy climbed to the top of a tree and +looked over the palisades, all would have been discovered; but the +French entertainers outside kept their guests busy. + +[Illustration: Chateau de Ramezay, Montreal, for years the residence of +the governor, and later the storehouse of the fur companies.] + +On the evening of the second day a great fire was kindled in the outer +enclosure, between the two walls. The trumpets blew a deafening blast. +The Mohawks answered with a shout. The French clapped their hands. +The outer gates were thrown wide open, and in trooped several hundred +Mohawk warriors, seating themselves in a circle round the fire. +Another blare of trumpets, and twelve enormous kettles of mincemeat +were carried round the circle of guests. A Mohawk chief rose solemnly +and gave his deities of earth, air, and fire profuse thanks for having +brought such generous people as the French among the Iroquois. Other +chiefs arose and declaimed to their hearers that earth did not contain +such hosts as the French. Before they had finished speaking there came +a second and a third and a fourth relay of kettles round the circle of +feasters. Not one Iroquois dared to refuse the food heaped before him. +By the time the kettles of salted fowl and venison and bear had passed +round the circle, each Indian was glancing furtively sideways to see if +his neighbor could still eat. He who was compelled to forsake the +feast first was to become the butt of the company. All the while the +French kept up a din of drums and trumpets and flageolets, dancing and +singing and shouting to drive off sleep. The eyes of the gorging +Indians began to roll. Never had they attempted to demolish such a +banquet. Some shook their heads and drew back. Others fell over in +the dead sleep that results from long fasting and overfeeding and fresh +air. Radisson was everywhere, urging the Iroquois to "Cheer up! cheer +up! If sleep overcomes you, you must awake! Beat the drum! Blow the +trumpet! Cheer up! Cheer up!" + +But the end of the repulsive scene was at hand. By midnight the +Indians had--in the language of the white man--"gone under the +mahogany." They lay sprawled on the ground in sodden sleep. Perhaps, +too, something had been dropped in the fleshpots to make their sleep +the sounder. Radisson does not say no, neither does the priest, and +they two were the only whites present who have written of the +episode.[8] But the French would hardly have been human if they had +not assured their own safety by drugging the feasters. It was a common +thing for the fur traders of a later period to prevent massacre and +quell riot by administering a quietus to Indians with a few drops of +laudanum. + +The French now retired to the inner court. The main gate was bolted +and chained. Through the loophole of this gate ran a rope attached to +a bell that was used to summon the sentry. To this rope the +mischievous Radisson tied the only remaining pig, so that when the +Indians would pull the rope for admission, the noise of the disturbed +pig would give the impression of a sentry's tramp-tramp on parade. +Stuffed effigies of soldiers were then stuck about the barracks. If a +spy climbed up to look over the palisades, he would see Frenchmen still +in the fort. While Radisson was busy with these precautions to delay +pursuit, the soldiers and priests, led by Major Dupuis, had broken open +the sally-port, forced the boats through sideways, and launched out on +the river. Speaking in whispers, they stowed the baggage in the +flat-boats, then brought out skiffs--dugouts to withstand the ice +jam--for the rest of the company. The night was raw and cold. A skim +of ice had formed on the margins of the river. Through the pitchy +darkness fell a sleet of rain and snow that washed out the footsteps of +the fugitives. The current of mid-river ran a noisy mill-race of ice +and log drift; and the _voyageurs_ could not see one boat length ahead. + +To men living in savagery come temptations that can neither be measured +nor judged by civilization. To the French at Onondaga came such a +temptation now. Their priests were busy launching the boats. The +departing soldiers seemed simultaneously to have become conscious of a +very black suggestion. Cooped up against the outer wall in the dead +sleep of torpid gluttony lay the leading warriors of the Iroquois +nation. Were these not the assassins of countless Frenchmen, the +murderers of women, the torturers of children? Had Providence not +placed the treacherous Iroquois in the hands of fifty Frenchmen? If +these warriors were slain, it would be an easy matter to march to the +villages of the Confederacy, kill the old men, and take prisoners the +women. New France would be forever free of her most deadly enemy. +Like the Indians, the white men were trying to justify a wrong under +pretence of good. By chance, word of the conspiracy was carried to the +Jesuits. With all the authority of the church, the priests forbade the +crime. "Their answer was," relates Radisson, "that they were sent to +instruct in the faith of Jesus Christ and not to destroy, and that the +cross must be their sword." + +Locking the sally-port, the company--as the Jesuit father +records--"shook the dust of Onondaga from their feet," launched out on +the swift-flowing, dark river and escaped "as the children of Israel +escaped by night from the land of Egypt." They had not gone far +through the darkness before the roar of waters told them of a cataract +ahead. They were four hours carrying baggage and boats over this +_portage_. Sleet beat upon their backs. The rocks were slippery with +glazed ice; and through the rotten, half-thawed snow, the men sank to +mid-waist. Navigation became worse on Lake Ontario; for the wind +tossed the lake like a sea, and ice had whirled against the St. +Lawrence in a jam. On the St. Lawrence, they had to wait for the +current to carry the ice out. At places they cut a passage through the +honeycombed ice with their hatchets, and again they were compelled to +_portage_ over the ice. The water was so high that the rapids were +safely ridden by all the boats but one, which was shipwrecked, and +three of the men were drowned. + +They had left Onondaga on the 20th of March, 1658. On the evening of +April 3d they came to Montreal, where they learned that New France had +all winter suffered intolerable insolence from the Iroquois, lest +punishment of the hostiles should endanger the French at Onondaga. The +fleeing colonists waited twelve days at Montreal for the ice to clear, +and were again held back by a jam at Three Rivers; but on April 23 they +moored safely under the heights of Quebec. + +_Coureurs_ from Onondaga brought word that the Mohawks had been +deceived by the pig and the ringing bell and the effigies for more than +a week. Crowing came from the chicken yard, dogs bayed in their +kennels, and when a Mohawk pulled the bell at the gate, he could hear +the sentry's measured march. At the end of seven days not a white man +had come from the fort. At first the Mohawks had thought the "black +robes" were at prayers; but now suspicions of trickery flashed on the +Iroquois. Warriors climbed the palisades and found the fort empty. +Two hundred Mohawks set out in pursuit; but the bad weather held them +back. And that was the way Radisson saved Onondaga.[9] + + +[1] The uncle, Pierre Esprit Radisson, is the one with whom careless +writers have confused the young hero, owing to identity of name. +Madeline Henault has been described as the explorer's first wife, +notwithstanding genealogical impossibilities which make the explorer's +daughter thirty-six years old before he was seventeen. Even the +infallible Tanguay trips on Radisson's genealogy. I have before me the +complete record of the family taken from the parish registers of Three +Rivers and Quebec, by the indefatigable Mr. Sulte, whose explanation of +the case is this: that Radisson's mother, Madeline Henault, first +married Sebastien Hayet, of St. Malo, to whom was born Marguerite about +1630; that her second husband was Pierre Esprit Radisson of Paris, to +whom were born our hero and the sisters Francoise and Elizabeth. + +[2] I have throughout referred to Medard Chouart, Sieur des +Groseillers, as simply "Groseillers," because that is the name +referring to him most commonly used in the _State Papers_ and old +histories. He was from Charly-Saint-Cyr, near Meaux, and is supposed +to have been born about 1621. His first wife was Helen Martin, +daughter of Abraham Martin, who gave his name to the Plains of Abraham. + +[3] This is the story of Onondaga which Parkman has told. +Unfortunately, when Parkman's account was written, _Radisson's +Journals_ were unknown and Mr. Parkman had to rely entirely on the +_Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_ and the _Jesuit Relations_. After +the discovery of _Radisson's Journals_, Parkman added a footnote to his +account of Onondaga, _quoting_ Radisson in confirmation. If Radisson +may be quoted to corroborate Parkman, Radisson may surely be accepted +as authentic. At the same time, I have compared this journal with +Father Ragueneau's of the same party, and the two tally in every detail. + +[4] See _Jesuit Relations_, 1657-1658. + +[5] _Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_. + +[6] See Ragueneau's account. + +[7] See _Marie de l'Incarnation_ and Dr. Dionne's modern monograph. + +[8] This account is drawn mainly from _Radisson's Journal_, partly from +Father Ragueneau, and in one detail from a letter of _Marie de +l'Incarnation_. Garneau says the feasters were drugged, but I cannot +find his authority for this, though from my knowledge of fur traders' +escapes, I fancy it would hardly have been human nature not to add a +sleeping potion to the kettles. + +[9] The _festins a tout manger_ must not be too sweepingly condemned by +the self-righteous white man as long as drinking bouts are a part of +civilized customs; and at least one civilized nation has the gross +proverb, "Better burst than waste." + + + + +CHAPTER III + +1658-1660 + +RADISSON'S THIRD VOYAGE + +The Discovery of the Great Northwest--Radisson and his Brother-in-law, +Groseillers, visit what are now Wisconsin, Minnesota, Dakota, and the +Canadian Northwest--Radisson's Prophecy on first beholding the +West--Twelve Years before Marquette and Jolliet, Radisson sees the +Mississippi--The Terrible Remains of Dollard's Fight seen on the Way +down the Ottawa--Why Radisson's Explorations have been ignored + + +While Radisson was among the Iroquois, the little world of New France +had not been asleep. Before Radisson was born, Jean Nicolet of Three +Rivers had passed westward through the straits of Mackinaw and coasted +down Lake Michigan as far as Green Bay.[1] Some years later the great +Jesuit martyr, Jogues, had preached to the Indians of Sault Ste. Marie; +but beyond the Sault was an unknown world that beckoned the young +adventurers of New France as with the hands of a siren. Of the great +beyond--known to-day as the Great Northwest--nothing had been learned +but this: from it came the priceless stores of beaver pelts yearly +brought down the Ottawa to Three Rivers by the Algonquins, and in it +dwelt strange, wild races whose territory extended northwest and north +to unknown nameless seas. + +The Great Beyond held the two things most coveted by ambitious young +men of New France,--quick wealth by means of the fur trade and the +immortal fame of being a first explorer. Nicolet had gone only as far +as Green Bay and Fox River; Jogues not far beyond the Sault. What +secrets lay in the Great Unknown? Year after year young Frenchmen, +fired with the zeal of the explorer, joined wandering tribes of +Algonquins going up the Ottawa, in the hope of being taken beyond the +Sault. In August, 1656, there came from Green Bay two young Frenchmen +with fifty canoes of Algonquins, who told of far-distant waters called +Lake "Ouinipeg," and tribes of wandering hunters called "Christinos" +(Crees), who spent their winters in a land bare of trees (the prairie), +and their summers on the North Sea (Hudson's Bay). They also told of +other tribes, who were great warriors, living to the south,--these were +the Sioux. But the two Frenchmen had not gone beyond the Great +Lakes.[2] These Algonquins were received at Chateau St. Louis, Quebec, +with pompous firing of cannon and other demonstrations of welcome. So +eager were the French to take possession of the new land that thirty +young men equipped themselves to go back with the Indians; and the +Jesuits sent out two priests, Leonard Gareau and Gabriel Dreuillettes, +with a lay helper, Louis Boesme. The sixty canoes left Quebec with +more firing of guns for a God-speed; but at Lake St. Peter the Mohawks +ambushed the flotilla. The enterprise of exploring the Great Beyond +was abandoned by all the French but two. Gareau, who was mortally +wounded on the Ottawa, probably by a Frenchman or renegade hunter, died +at Montreal; and Dreuillettes did not go farther than Lake Nipissing. +Here, Dreuillettes learned much of the Unknown from an old Nipissing +chief. He heard of six overland routes to the bay of the North, whence +came such store of peltry.[3] He, too, like the two Frenchmen from +Green Bay, heard of wandering tribes who had no settled lodge like the +Hurons and Iroquois, but lived by the chase,--Crees and Sioux and +Assiniboines of the prairie, at constant war round a lake called +"Ouinipegouek." + +[Illustration: A Cree brave, with the wampum string.] + +By one of those curious coincidences of destiny which mark the lives of +nations and men, the young Frenchman who had gone with the Jesuit, +Dreuillettes, to Lake Nipissing when the other Frenchmen turned back, +was Medard Chouart Groseillers, the fur trader married to Radisson's +widowed sister, Marguerite.[4] + +When Radisson came back from Onondaga, he found his brother-in-law, +Groseillers, at Three Rivers, with ambitious designs of exploration in +the unknown land of which he had heard at Green Bay and on Lake +Nipissing. Jacques Cartier had discovered only one great river, had +laid the foundations of only one small province; Champlain had only +made the circuit of the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa, and the Great Lakes; +but here was a country--if the Indians spoke the truth--greater than +all the empires of Europe together, a country bounded only by three +great seas, the Sea of the North, the Sea of the South, and the Sea of +Japan, a country so vast as to stagger the utmost conception of little +New France. + +It was unnecessary for Groseillers to say more. The ambition of young +Radisson took fire. Long ago, when a captive among the Mohawks, he had +cherished boyish dreams that it was to be his "destiny to discover many +wild nations"; and here was that destiny opening the door for him, +pointing the way, beckoning to the toils and dangers and glories of the +discoverer's life. Radisson had been tortured among the Mohawks and +besieged among the Onondagas. Groseillers had been among the Huron +missions that were destroyed and among the Algonquin canoes that were +attacked. Both explorers knew what perils awaited them; but what +youthful blood ever chilled at prospect of danger when a single _coup_ +might win both wealth and fame? Radisson had not been home one month; +but he had no sooner heard the plan than he "longed to see himself in a +boat." + +A hundred and fifty Algonquins had come down the Ottawa from the Great +Beyond shortly after Radisson returned from Onondaga. Six of these +Algonquins had brought their furs to Three Rivers. Some emissaries had +gone to Quebec to meet the governor; but the majority of the Indians +remained at Montreal to avoid the ambuscade of the Mohawks on Lake St. +Peter. Radisson and Groseillers were not the only Frenchmen conspiring +to wrest fame and fortune from the Upper Country. When the Indians +came back from Quebec, they were accompanied by thirty young French +adventurers, gay as boys out of school or gold hunters before the first +check to their plans. There were also two Jesuits sent out to win the +new domain for the cross.[5] As ignorant as children of the hardships +ahead, the other treasure-seekers kept up nonchalant boasting that +roused the irony of such seasoned men as Radisson and Groseillers. +"What fairer bastion than a good tongue," Radisson demands cynically, +"especially when one sees his own chimney smoke? . . . It is different +when food is wanting, work necessary day and night, sleep taken on the +bare ground or to mid-waist in water, with an empty stomach, weariness +in the bones, and bad weather overhead." + +Giving the slip to their noisy companions, Radisson and Groseillers +stole out from Three Rivers late one night in June, accompanied by +Algonquin guides. Travelling only at night to avoid Iroquois spies, +they came to Montreal in three days. Here were gathered one hundred +and forty Indians from the Upper Country, the thirty French, and the +two priests. No gun was fired at Montreal, lest the Mohawks should get +wind of the departure; and the flotilla of sixty canoes spread over +Lake St. Louis for the far venture of the _Pays d'en Haut_. Three days +of work had silenced the boasting of the gay adventurers; and the +_voyageurs_, white and red, were now paddling in swift silence. Safety +engendered carelessness. As the fleet seemed to be safe from Iroquois +ambush, the canoes began to scatter. Some loitered behind. Hunters +went ashore to shoot. The hills began to ring with shot and call. At +the first _portage_ many of the canoes were nine and ten miles apart. +Enemies could have set on the Algonquins in some narrow defile and +slaughtered the entire company like sheep in a pen. Radisson and +Groseillers warned the Indians of the risk they were running. Many of +these Algonquins had never before possessed firearms. With the muskets +obtained in trade at Three Rivers, they thought themselves invincible +and laughed all warning to scorn. Radisson and Groseillers were told +that they were a pair of timid squaws; and the canoes spread apart till +not twenty were within call. As they skirted the wooded shores, a man +suddenly dashed from the forest with an upraised war-hatchet in one +hand and a blanket streaming from his shoulders. He shouted for them +to come to him. The Algonquins were panic-stricken. Was the man +pursued by Mohawks, or laying a trap to lure them within shooting +range? Seeing them hesitate, the Indian threw down blanket and hatchet +to signify that he was defenceless, and rushed into the water to his +armpits. + +"I would save you," he shouted in Iroquois. + +The Algonquins did not understand. They only knew that he spoke the +tongue of the hated enemy and was unarmed. In a trice, the Algonquins +in the nearest canoe had thrown out a well-aimed lasso, roped the man +round the waist, and drawn him a captive into the canoe. + +"Brothers," protested the captive, who seems to have been either a +Huron slave or an Iroquois magician, "your enemies are spread up and +down! Sleep not! They have heard your noise! They wait for you! +They are sure of their prey! Believe me--keep together! Spend not +your powder in vain to frighten your enemies by noise! See that the +stones of your arrows be not bent! Bend your bows! Keep your hatchets +sharp! Build a fort! Make haste!" + +But the Algonquins, intoxicated with the new power of firearms, would +hear no warning. They did not understand his words and refused to heed +Radisson's interpretation. Beating paddles on their canoes and firing +off guns, they shouted derisively that the man was "a dog and a hen." +All the same, they did not land to encamp that night, but slept in +midstream, with their boats tied to the rushes or on the lee side of +floating trees. The French lost heart. If this were the beginning, +what of the end? Daylight had scarcely broken when the paddles of the +eager _voyageurs_ were cutting the thick gray mist that rose from the +river to get away from observation while the fog still hid the fleet. +From afar came the dull, heavy rumble of a waterfall.[6] + +There was a rush of the twelve foremost canoes to reach the landing and +cross the _portage_ before the thinning mist lifted entirely. Twelve +boats had got ashore when the fog was cleft by a tremendous crashing of +guns, and Iroquois ambushed in the bordering forest let go a salute of +musketry. Everything was instantly in confusion. Abandoning their +baggage to the enemy, the Algonquins and French rushed for the woods to +erect a barricade. This would protect the landing of the other canoes. +The Iroquois immediately threw up a defence of fallen logs likewise, +and each canoe that came ashore was greeted with a cross fire between +the two barricades. Four canoes were destroyed and thirteen of the +Indians from the Upper Country killed. As day wore on, the Iroquois' +shots ceased, and the Algonquins celebrated the truce by killing and +devouring all the prisoners they had taken, among whom was the magician +who had given them warning. Radisson and Groseillers wondered if the +Iroquois were reserving their powder for a night raid. The Algonquins +did not wait to know. As soon as darkness fell, there was a wild +scramble for the shore. A long, low trumpet call, such as hunters use, +signalled the Algonquins to rally and rush for the boats. The French +embarked as best they could. The Indians swam and paddled for the +opposite shore of the river. Here, in the dark, hurried council was +taken. The most of the baggage had been lost. The Indians refused to +help either the Jesuits or the French, and it was impossible for the +white _voyageurs_ to keep up the pace in the dash across an unknown +_portage_ through the dark. The French adventurers turned back for +Montreal. Of the white men, Radisson and Groseillers alone went on. + +Frightened into their senses by the encounter, the Algonquins now +travelled only at night till they were far beyond range of the +Iroquois. All day the fugitive band lay hidden in the woods. They +could not hunt, lest Mohawk spies might hear the gunshots. Provisions +dwindled. In a short time the food consisted of _tripe de roche_--a +greenish moss boiled into a soup--and the few fish that might be caught +during hurried nightly launch or morning landing. Sometimes they hid +in a berry patch, when the fruit was gathered and boiled, but +camp-fires were stamped out and covered. Turning westward, they +crossed the barren region of iron-capped rocks and dwarf growth between +the Upper Ottawa and the Great Lakes. Now they were farther from the +Iroquois, and staved off famine by shooting an occasional bear in the +berry patches. For a thousand miles they had travelled against stream, +carrying their boats across sixty _portages_. Now they glided with the +current westward to Lake Nipissing. On the lake, the Upper Indians +always _cached_ provisions. Fish, otter, and beaver were plentiful; +but again they refrained from using firearms, for Iroquois footprints +had been found on the sand. + +From Lake Nipissing they passed to Lake Huron, where the fleet divided. +Radisson and Groseillers went with the Indians, who crossed Lake Huron +for Green Bay on Lake Michigan. The birch canoes could not venture +across the lake in storms; so the boats rounded southward, keeping +along the shore of Georgian Bay. Cedar forests clustered down the +sandy reaches of the lake. Rivers dark as cathedral aisles rolled +their brown tides through the woods to the blue waters of Lake Huron. +At one point Groseillers recognized the site of the ruined Jesuit +missions. The Indians waited the chance of a fair day, and paddled +over to the straits at the entrance to Lake Michigan. At Manitoulin +Island were Huron refugees, among whom were, doubtless, the waiting +families of the Indians with Radisson. All struck south for Green Bay. +So far Radisson and Groseillers had travelled over beaten ground. Now +they were at the gateway of the Great Beyond, where no white man had +yet gone. + +The first thing done on taking up winter quarters on Green Bay was to +appease the friends of those warriors slain by the Mohawks. A +distribution of gifts had barely dried up the tears of mourning when +news came of Iroquois on the war-path. Radisson did not wait for fear +to unman the Algonquin warriors. Before making winter camp, he offered +to lead a band of volunteers against the marauders. For two days he +followed vague tracks through the autumn-tinted forests. Here were +markings of the dead leaves turned freshly up; there a moccasin print +on the sand; and now the ashes of a hidden camp-fire lying in almost +imperceptible powder on fallen logs told where the Mohawks had +bivouacked. On the third day Radisson caught the ambushed band +unprepared, and fell upon the Iroquois so furiously that not one +escaped. + +After that the Indians of the Upper Country could not do too much for +the white men. Radisson and Groseillers were conducted from camp to +camp in triumph. Feasts were held. Ambassadors went ahead with gifts +from the Frenchmen; and companies of women marched to meet the +explorers, chanting songs of welcome. "But our mind was not to stay +here," relates Radisson, "but to know the remotest people; and, because +we had been willing to die in their defence, these Indians consented to +conduct us." + +Before the opening of spring, 1659, Radisson and Groseillers had been +guided across what is now Wisconsin to "a mighty river, great, rushing, +profound, and comparable to the St. Lawrence." [7] On the shores of +the river they found a vast nation--"the people of the fire," prairie +tribes, a branch of the Sioux, who received them well.[8] This river +was undoubtedly the Upper Mississippi, now for the first time seen by +white men. Radisson and Groseillers had discovered the Great +Northwest.[9] They were standing on the threshold of the Great Beyond. +They saw before them not the Sea of China, as speculators had dreamed, +not kingdoms for conquest, which the princes of Europe coveted; not a +short road to Asia, of which savants had spun a cobweb of theories. +They saw what every Westerner sees to-day,--illimitable reaches of +prairie and ravine, forested hills sloping to mighty rivers, and open +meadow-lands watered by streams looped like a ribbon. They saw a land +waiting for its people, wealth waiting for possessors, an empire +waiting for the nation builders. + +[Illustration: An Old-time Buffalo Hunt on the Plains among the Sioux.] + +What were Radisson's thoughts? Did he realize the importance of his +discovery? Could he have the vaguest premonition that he had opened a +door of escape from stifled older lands to a higher type of manhood and +freedom than the most sanguine dreamer had ever hoped?[10] After an +act has come to fruition, it is easy to read into the actor's mind +fuller purpose than he could have intended. Columbus could not have +realized to what the discovery of America would lead. Did Radisson +realize what the discovery of the Great Northwest meant? + +Here is what he says, in that curious medley of idioms which so often +results when a speaker knows many languages but is master of none:-- + +"The country was so pleasant, so beautiful, and so fruitful, that it +grieved me to see that the world could not discover such inticing +countries to live in. This, I say, because the Europeans fight for a +rock in the sea against one another, or for a steril land . . . where +the people by changement of air engender sickness and die. . . . +Contrariwise, these kingdoms are so delicious and under so temperate a +climate, plentiful of all things, and the earth brings forth its fruit +twice a year, that the people live long and lusty and wise in their +way. What a conquest would this be, at little or no cost? What +pleasure should people have . . . instead of misery and poverty! Why +should not men reap of the love of God here? Surely, more is to be +gained converting souls here than in differences of creed, when wrongs +are committed under pretence of religion! . . . It is true, I +confess, . . . that access here is difficult . . . but nothing is to be +gained without labor and pains." [11] + +[Illustration: Father Marquette, from an old painting discovered in +Montreal by Mr. McNab. The date on the picture is 1669.] + +Here Radisson foreshadows all the best gains that the West has +accomplished for the human race. What are they? Mainly room,--room to +live and room for opportunity; equal chances for all classes, high and +low; plenty for all classes, high and low; the conquests not of war but +of peace. The question arises,--when Radisson discovered the Great +Northwest ten years before Marquette and Jolliet, twenty years before +La Salle, a hundred years before De la Verendrye, why has his name been +slurred over and left in oblivion?[12] The reasons are plain. +Radisson was a Christian, but he was not a slave to any creed. Such +liberality did not commend itself to the annalists of an age that was +still rioting in a very carnival of religious persecution. Radisson +always invoked the blessing of Heaven on his enterprises and rendered +thanks for his victories; but he was indifferent as to whether he was +acting as lay helper with the Jesuits, or allied to the Huguenots of +London and Boston. His discoveries were too important to be ignored by +the missionaries. They related his discoveries, but refrained from +mentioning his name, though twice referring to Groseillers. What hurt +Radisson's fame even more than his indifference to creeds was his +indifference to nationality. Like Columbus, he had little care what +flag floated at the prow, provided only that the prow pushed on and on +and on,--into the Unknown. He sold his services alternately to France +and England till he had offended both governments; and, in addition to +withstanding a conspiracy of silence on the part of the Church, his +fame encountered the ill-will of state historians. He is mentioned as +"the adventurer," "the hang-dog," "the renegade." Only in 1885, when +the manuscript of his travels was rescued from oblivion, did it become +evident that history must be rewritten. Here was a man whose +discoveries were second only to those of Columbus, and whose +explorations were more far-ranging and important than those of +Champlain and La Salle and De la Verendrye put together. + + +The spring of 1659 found the explorers still among the prairie tribes +of the Mississippi. From these people Radisson learned of four other +races occupying vast, undiscovered countries. He heard of the Sioux, a +warlike nation to the west, who had no fixed abode but lived by the +chase and were at constant war with another nomadic tribe to the +north--the Crees. The Crees spent the summer time round the shores of +salt water, and in winter came inland to hunt. Between these two was a +third,--the Assiniboines,--who used earthen pots for cooking, heated +their food by throwing hot stones in water, and dressed themselves in +buckskin. These three tribes were wandering hunters; but the people of +the fire told Radisson of yet another nation, who lived in villages +like the Iroquois, on "a great river that divided itself in two," and +was called "the Forked River," because "it had two branches, the one +toward the west, the other toward the south, . . . toward Mexico." +These people were the Mandans or Omahas, or Iowas, or other people of +the Missouri.[13] + +A whole world of discoveries lay before them. In what direction should +they go? "We desired not to go to the north till we had made a +discovery in the south," explains Radisson. The people of the fire +refused to accompany the explorers farther; so the two "put themselves +in hazard," as Radisson relates, and set out alone. They must have +struck across the height of land between the Mississippi and the +Missouri; for Radisson records that they met several nations having +villages, "all amazed to see us and very civil. The farther we +sojourned, the delightfuller the land became. I can say that in all my +lifetime I have never seen a finer country, for all that I have been in +Italy. The people have very long hair. They reap twice a year. They +war against the Sioux and the Cree. . . . It was very hot there. . . . +Being among the people they told us . . . of men that built great +cabins and have beards and have knives like the French." The Indians +showed Radisson a string of beads only used by Europeans. These people +must have been the Spaniards of the south. The tribes on the Missouri +were large men of well-formed figures. There were no deformities among +the people. Radisson saw corn and pumpkins in their gardens. "Their +arrows were not of stone, but of fish bones. . . . Their dishes were +made of wood. . . . They had great calumets of red and green +stone . . . and great store of tobacco. . . . They had a kind of drink +that made them mad for a whole day." [14] "We had not yet seen the +Sioux," relates Radisson. "We went toward the south and came back by +the north." The _Jesuit Relations_ are more explicit. Written the +year that Radisson returned to Quebec, they state: "Continuing their +wanderings, our two young Frenchmen visited the Sioux, where they found +five thousand warriors. They then left this nation for another warlike +people, who with bows and arrows had rendered themselves redoubtable." +These were the Crees, with whom, say the Jesuits, wood is so rare and +small that nature has taught them to make fire of a kind of coal and to +cover their cabins with skins of the chase. The explorers seem to have +spent the summer hunting antelope, buffalo, moose, and wild turkey. +The Sioux received them cordially, supplied them with food, and gave +them an escort to the next encampments. They had set out southwest to +the Mascoutins, Mandans, and perhaps, also, the Omahas. They were now +circling back northeastward toward the Sault between Lake Michigan and +Lake Superior. How far westward had they gone? Only two facts gave +any clew. Radisson reports that mountains lay far inland; and the +Jesuits record that the explorers were among tribes that used coal. +This must have been a country far west of the Mandans and Mascoutins +and within sight of at least the Bad Lands, or that stretch of rough +country between the prairie and outlying foothills of the Rockies.[15] +The course of the first exploration seems to have circled over the +territory now known as Wisconsin, perhaps eastern Iowa and Nebraska, +South Dakota, Montana, and back over North Dakota and Minnesota to the +north shore of Lake Superior. "The lake toward the north is full of +rocks, yet great ships can ride in it without danger," writes Radisson. +At the Sault they found the Crees and Sautaux in bitter war. They also +heard of a French establishment, and going to visit it found that the +Jesuits had established a mission. + +Radisson had explored the Southwest. He now decided to essay the +Northwest. When the Sautaux were at war with the Crees, he met the +Crees and heard of the great salt sea in the north. Surely this was +the Sea of the North--Hudson Bay--of which the Nipissing chief had told +Groseillers long ago. Then the Crees had great store of beaver pelts; +and trade must not be forgotten. No sooner had peace been arranged +between Sautaux and Crees, than Cree hunters flocked out of the +northern forests to winter on Lake Superior. A rumor of Iroquois on +the war-path compelled Radisson and Groseillers to move their camp back +from Lake Superior higher up the chain of lakes and rivers between what +is now Minnesota and Canada, toward the country of the Sioux. In the +fall of 1659 Groseillers' health began to fail from the hardships; so +he remained in camp for the winter, attending to the trade, while +Radisson carried on the explorations alone. + +This was one of the coldest winters known in Canada.[16] The snow fell +so heavily in the thick pine woods of Minnesota that Radisson says the +forest became as sombre as a cellar. The colder the weather the better +the fur, and, presenting gifts to insure safe conduct, Radisson set out +with a band of one hundred and fifty Cree hunters for the Northwest. +They travelled on snow-shoes, hunting moose on the way and sleeping at +night round a camp-fire under the stars. League after league, with no +sound through the deathly white forest but the soft crunch-crunch of +the snowshoes, they travelled two hundred miles toward what is now +Manitoba. When they had set out, the snow was like a cushion. Now it +began to melt in the spring sun, and clogged the snow-shoes till it was +almost impossible to travel. In the morning the surface was glazed +ice, and they could march without snow-shoes. Spring thaw called a +halt to their exploration. The Crees encamped for three weeks to build +boats. As soon as the ice cleared, the band launched back down-stream +for the appointed rendezvous on Green Bay. All that Radisson learned +on this trip was that the Bay of the North lay much farther from Lake +Superior than the old Nipissing chief had told Dreuillettes and +Groseillers.[17] + +Groseillers had all in readiness to depart for Quebec; and five hundred +Indians from the Upper Country had come together to go down the Ottawa +and St. Lawrence with the explorers. As they were about to embark, +_coureurs_ came in from the woods with news that more than a thousand +Iroquois were on the war-path, boasting that they would exterminate the +French.[18] Somewhere along the Ottawa a small band of Hurons had been +massacred. The Indians with Groseillers and Radisson were terrified. +A council of the elders was called. + +"Brothers, why are ye so foolish as to put yourselves in the hands of +those that wait for you?" demanded an old chief, addressing the two +white men. "The Iroquois will destroy you and carry you away captive. +Will you have your brethren, that love you, slain? Who will baptize +our children?" (Radisson and Groseillers had baptized more than two +hundred children.[19]) "Stay till next year! Then you may freely go! +Our mothers will send their children to be taught in the way of the +Lord!" + +Fear is like fire. It must be taken in the beginning, or it spreads. +The explorers retired, decided on a course of action, and requested the +Indians to meet them in council a second time. Eight hundred warriors +assembled, seating themselves in a circle. Radisson and Groseillers +took their station in the centre.[20] + +"Who am I?" demanded Groseillers, hotly. "Am I a foe or a friend? If +a foe, why did you suffer me to live? If a friend, listen what I say! +You know that we risked our lives for you! If we have no courage, why +did you not tell us? If you have more wit than we, why did you not use +it to defend yourselves against the Iroquois? How can you defend your +wives and children unless you get arms from the French!" + +"Fools," cried Radisson, striking a beaver skin across an Indian's +shoulder, "will you fight the Iroquois with beaver pelts? Do you not +know the French way? We fight with guns, not robes. The Iroquois will +coop you up here till you have used all your powder, and then despatch +you with ease! Shall your children be slaves because you are cowards? +Do what you will! For my part I choose to die like a man rather than +live like a beggar. Take back your beaver robes. We can live without +you--" and the white men strode out from the council. + +Consternation reigned among the Indians. There was an uproar of +argument. For six days the fate of the white men hung fire. Finally +the chiefs sent word that the five hundred young warriors would go to +Quebec with the white men. Radisson did not give their ardor time to +cool. They embarked at once. The fleet of canoes crossed the head of +the lakes and came to the Upper Ottawa without adventure. Scouts went +ahead to all the _portages_, and great care was taken to avoid an +ambush when passing overland. Below the Chaudiere Falls the scouts +reported that four Iroquois boats had crossed the river. Again +Radisson did not give time for fear. He sent the lightest boats in +pursuit; and while keeping the enemy thus engaged with half his own +company on guard at the ends of the long _portage_, he hurriedly got +cargoes and canoes across the landing. The Iroquois had fled. By that +Radisson knew they were weak. Somewhere along the Long Sault Rapids, +the scouts saw sixteen Iroquois canoes. The Indians would have thrown +down their goods and fled, but Radisson instantly got his forces in +hand and held them with a grip of steel. Distributing loaded muskets +to the bravest warriors, he pursued the Iroquois with a picked company +of Hurons, Algonquins, Sautaux, and Sioux. Beating their paddles, +Radisson's company shouted the war-cry till the hills rang; but all the +warriors were careful not to waste an ounce of powder till within +hitting range. The Iroquois were not used to this sort of defence. +They fled. The Long Sault was always the most dangerous part of the +Ottawa. Radisson kept scouts to rear and fore, but the Iroquois had +deserted their boats and were hanging on the flanks of the company to +attempt an ambush. It was apparent that a fort had been erected at the +foot of the rapids. Leaving half the band in their boats, Radisson +marched overland with two hundred warriors. Iroquois shots spattered +from each side; but the Huron muskets kept the assailants at a +distance, and those of Radisson's warriors who had not guns were armed +with bows and arrows, and wore a shield of buffalo skin dried hard as +metal. The Iroquois rushed for the barricade at the foot of the Sault. +Five of them were picked off as they ran. For a moment the Iroquois +were out of cover, and their weakness was betrayed. They had only one +hundred and fifty men, while Radisson had five hundred; but the odds +would not long be in his favor. Ammunition was running out, and the +enemy must be dislodged without wasting a shot. Radisson called back +encouragement to his followers. They answered with a shout. Tying the +beaver pelts in great bundles, the Indians rolled the fur in front +nearer and nearer the Iroquois boats, keeping under shelter from the +shots of the fort. The Iroquois must either lose their boats and be +cut off from escape, or retire from the fort. It was not necessary for +Radisson's warriors to fire a shot. Abandoning even their baggage and +glad to get off with their lives, the Iroquois dashed to save their +boats. + +[Illustration: Voyageurs running the Rapids of the Ottawa River.] + +A terrible spectacle awaited Radisson inside the enclosure of the +palisades.[21] The scalps of dead Indians flaunted from the pickets. +Not a tree but was spattered with bullet marks as with bird shot. Here +and there burnt holes gaped in the stockades like wounds. Outside +along the river bank lay the charred bones of captives who had been +burned. The scarred fort told its own tale. Here refugees had been +penned up by the Iroquois till thirst and starvation did their work. +In the clay a hole had been dug for water by the parched victims, and +the ooze through the mud eagerly scooped up. Only when he reached +Montreal did Radisson learn the story of the dismantled fort. The +rumor carried to the explorers on Lake Michigan of a thousand Iroquois +going on the war-path to exterminate the French had been only too true. +Half the warriors were to assault Quebec, half to come down on Montreal +from the Ottawa. One thing only could save the French--to keep the +bands apart. Those on the Ottawa had been hunting all winter and must +necessarily be short of powder. To intercept them, a gallant band of +seventeen French, four Algonquins, and sixty Hurons led by Dollard took +their stand at the Long Sault. The French and their Indian allies were +boiling their kettles when two hundred Iroquois broke from the woods. +There was no time to build a fort. Leaving their food, Dollard and his +men threw themselves into the rude palisades which Indians had erected +the previous year. The Iroquois kept up a constant fire and sent for +reinforcements of six hundred warriors, who were on the Richelieu. In +defiance the Indians fighting for the French sallied out, scalped the +fallen Iroquois, and hoisted the sanguinary trophies on long poles +above the pickets. The enraged Iroquois redoubled their fury. The +fort was too small to admit all the Hurons; and when the Iroquois came +up from the Richelieu with Huron renegades among their warriors, the +Hurons deserted their French allies and went over in a body to the +enemy. For two days the French had fought against two hundred +Iroquois. For five more days they fought against eight hundred. "The +worst of it was," relates Radisson, "the French had no water, as we +plainly saw; for they had made a hole in the ground out of which they +could get but little because the fort was on a hill. It was pitiable. +There was not a tree but what was shot with bullets. The Iroquois had +rushed to make a breach (in the wall). . . . The French set fire to a +barrel of powder to drive the Iroquois back . . . but it fell inside +the fort. . . . Upon this, the Iroquois entered . . . so that not one +of the French escaped. . . . It was terrible . . . for we came there +eight days after the defeat." [22] + +Without a doubt it was Dollard's splendid fight that put fear in the +hearts of the Iroquois who fled before Radisson. The passage to +Montreal was clear. The boats ran the rapids without unloading; but +Groseillers almost lost his life. His canoe caught on a rock in +midstream, but righting herself shot down safely to the landing with no +greater loss than a damaged keel. The next day, after two years' +absence, Radisson and Groseillers arrived at Montreal. A brief stop +was made at Three Rivers for rest till twenty citizens had fitted out +two shallops with cannon to escort the discoverers in fitting pomp to +Quebec. As the fleet of canoes glided round Cape Diamond, battery and +bastion thundered a welcome. Welcome they were, and thrice welcome; +for so ceaseless had been the Iroquois wars that the three French ships +lying at anchor would have returned to France without a single beaver +skin if the explorers had not come. Citizens shouted from the terraced +heights of Chateau St. Louis, and bells rang out the joy of all New +France over the discoverers' return. For a week Radisson and +Groseillers were feted. Viscomte d'Argenson, the new governor, +presented them with gifts and sent two brigantines to carry them home +to Three Rivers. There they rested for the remainder of the year, +Groseillers at his seigniory with his wife, Marguerite; Radisson, under +the parental roof.[23] + + +[1] Mr. Benjamin Sulte establishes this date as 1634. + +[2] See _Jesuit Relations_, 1656-57-58. I have purposely refrained +from entering into the heated controversy as to the identity of these +two men. It is apart from the subject, as there is no proof these men +went beyond the Green Bay region. + +[3] These routes were; (1) By the Saguenay, (2) by Three Rivers and the +St. Maurice, (3) by Lake Nipissing, (4) by Lake Huron, through the land +of the Sautaux, (5) by Lake Superior overland, (6) by the Ottawa. See +_Jesuit Relations_ for detailed accounts of these routes. Dreuillettes +went farther west to the Crees a few years later, but that does not +concern this narrative. + +[4] The dispute as to whether eastern Minnesota was discovered on the +1654-55-56 trip, and whether Groseillers discovered it, is a point for +savants, but will, I think, remain an unsettled dispute. + +[5] The _Relations_ do not give the names of these two Jesuits, +probably owing to the fact that the enterprise failed. They simply +state that two priests set out, but were compelled to remain behind +owing to the caprice of the savages. + +[6] Whether they were now on the Ottawa or the St. Lawrence, it is +impossible to tell. Dr. Dionne thinks that the band went overland from +Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. I know both waters--Lake Ontario and the +Ottawa--from many trips, and I think Radisson's description here +tallies with his other descriptions of the Ottawa. It is certain that +they must have been on the Ottawa before they came to the Lake of the +Castors or Nipissing. The noise of the waterfall seems to point to the +Chaudiere Falls of the Ottawa. If so, the landing place would be the +tongue of land running out from Hull, opposite the city of Ottawa, and +the _portage_ would be the Aylmer Road beyond the rapids above the +falls. Mr. Benjamin Sulte, the scholarly historian, thinks they went +by way of the Ottawa, not Lake Ontario, as the St. Lawrence route was +not used till 1702. + +[7] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[8] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660, and _Radisson's Journal_. These "people +of the fire," or Mascoutins, were in three regions, (1) Wisconsin, (2) +Nebraska, (3) on the Missouri. See Appendix E. + +[9] Benjamin Sulte unequivocally states that the river was the +Mississippi. Of writers contemporaneous with Radisson, the Jesuits, +Marie de l'Incarnation, and Charlevoix corroborate Radisson's account. +In the face of this, what are we to think of modern writers with a +reputation to lose, who brush Radisson's exploits aside as a possible +fabrication? The only conclusion is that they have not read his +_Journal_. + +[10] I refer to Radisson alone, because for half the time in 1659 +Groseillers was ill at the lake, and we cannot be sure that he +accompanied Radisson in all the journeys south and west, though +Radisson generously always includes him as "we." Besides, Groseillers +seems to have attended to the trading, Radisson to the exploring. + +[11] If any one cares to render Radisson's peculiar jumble of French, +English, Italian, and Indian idioms into more intelligent form, they +may try their hand at it. His meaning is quite clear; but the words +are a medley. The passage is to be found on pp. 150-151, of the +_Prince Society Reprint_. See also _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[12] It will be noted that what I claim for Radisson is the honor of +discovering the Great Northwest, and refrain from trying to identify +his movements with the modern place names of certain states. I have +done this intentionally--though it would have been easy to advance +opinions about Green Bay, Fox River, and the Wisconsin, and so become +involved in the childish quarrel that has split the western historical +societies and obscured the main issue of Radisson's feat. Needless to +say, the world does not care whether Radisson went by way of the +Menominee, or snow-shoed across country. The question is: Did he reach +the Mississippi Valley before Marquette and Jolliet and La Salle? That +question this chapter answers. + +[13] I have refrained from quoting Radisson's names for the different +Indian tribes because it would only be "caviare to the general." If +Radisson's manuscript be consulted it will be seen that the crucial +point is the whereabouts of the Mascoutins--or people of the fire. +Reference to the last part of Appendix E will show that these people +extended far beyond the Wisconsin to the Missouri. It is ignorance of +this fact that has created such bitter and childish controversy about +the exact direction taken by Radisson west-north-west of the +Mascoutins. The exact words of the document in the Marine Department +are; "In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very +numerous with whom we have no commerce who are trading yet with nobody. +Above Missoury river which is in the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins, Nadoessioux (Sioux) +with whom we trade and who are numerous." Benjamin Sulte was one of +the first to discover that the Mascoutins had been in Nebraska, though +he does not attempt to trace this part of Radisson's journey definitely. + +[14] The entire account of the people on "the Forked River" is so exact +an account of the Mandans that it might be a page from Catlin's +descriptions two centuries later. The long hair, the two crops a year, +the tobacco, the soap-stone calumets, the stationary villages, the +knowledge of the Spaniards, the warm climate--all point to a region far +south of the Northern States, to which so many historians have stupidly +and with almost wilful ignorance insisted on limiting Radisson's +travels. Parkman has been thoroughly honest in the matter. His _La +Salle_ had been written before the discovery of the _Radisson +Journals_; but in subsequent editions he acknowledges in a footnote +that Radisson had been to "the Forked River." Other writers (with the +exception of five) have been content to quote from Radisson's enemies +instead of going directly to his journals. Even Garneau slurs over +Radisson's explorations; but Garneau, too, wrote before the discovery +of the Radisson papers. Abbe Tanguay, who is almost infallible on +French-Canadian matters, slips up on Radisson, because his writings +preceded the publication of the _Radisson Relations_. The five writers +who have attempted to redeem Radisson's memory from ignominy are: Dr. +N. E. Dionne, of the Parliamentary Library, Quebec; Mr. Justice +Prudhomme, of St. Boniface, Manitoba; Dr. George Bryce, of Winnepeg, +Mr. Benjamin Sulte, of Ottawa; and Judge J. V. Brower, of St. Paul. It +ever a monument be erected to Radisson--as one certainly ought in every +province and state west of the Great Lakes--the names of these four +champions should be engraved upon it. + +[15] This claim will, I know, stagger preconceived ideas. In the light +of only Radisson's narrative, the third voyage has usually been +identified with Wisconsin and Minnesota; but in the light of the +_Jesuit Relations_, written the year that Radisson returned, to what +tribes could the descriptions apply? Even Parkman's footnote +acknowledged that Radisson was among the people of the Missouri. Grant +that, and the question arises, What people on the Missouri answer the +description? The Indians of the far west use not only coal for fire, +but raw galena to make bullets for their guns. In fact, it was that +practice of the tribes of Idaho that led prospectors to find the Blue +Bell Mine of Kootenay. Granting that the Jesuit account--which was of +course, from hearsay--mistook the use of turf, dry grass, or buffalo +refuse for a kind of coal, the fact remains that only the very far +western tribes had this custom. + +[16] _Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_. + +[17] _Jesuit Relations_, 1658. + +[18] See Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, and Abbe Belmont. + +[19] _Jesuit Relations_, 1660. + +[20] It may be well to state as nearly as possible exactly _what_ +tribes Radisson had met in this trip. Those rejoined on the way up at +Manitoulin Island were refugee Hurons and Ottawas. From the Hurons, +Ottawas, and Algonquins of Green Bay, Radisson went west with +Pottowatomies, from them to the Escotecke or Sioux of the Fire, namely +a branch of the Mascoutins. From these Wisconsin Mascoutins, he learns +of the Nadoneceroron, or Sioux proper, and of the Christinos or Crees. +Going west with the Mascoutins, he comes to "sedentary" tribes. Are +these the Mandans? He compares this country to Italy. From them he +hears of white men, that he thinks may be Spaniards. This tribe is at +bitter war with Sioux and Crees. At Green Bay he hears of the Sautaux +in war with Crees. His description of buffalo hunts among the Sioux +tallies exactly with the Pembina hunts of a later day. Oldmixon says +that it was from Crees and Assiniboines visiting at Green Bay that +Radisson learned of a way overland to the great game country of Hudson +Bay. + +[21] There is a mistake in Radisson's account here, which is easily +checked by contemporaneous accounts of Marie de l'Incarnation and +Dollier de Casson. Radisson describes Dollard's fight during his +fourth trip in 1664, when it is quite plain that he means 1660. The +fight has been so thoroughly described by Mr. Parkman, who drew his +material from the two authorities mentioned, and the _Jesuit Relations_ +that I do not give it in detail. I give a brief account of Radisson's +description of the tragedy. + +[22] It will be noticed that Radisson's account of the battle at the +Long Sault--which I have given in his own words as far as +possible--differs in details from the only other accounts written by +contemporaries; namely, Marie de l'Incarnation, Dollier de Casson, the +Abbe Belmont, and the Jesuits. All these must have written from +hearsay, for they were at Quebec and Montreal. Radisson was on the +spot a week after the tragedy; so that his account may be supposed to +be as accurate as any. + +[23] Mr. Benjamin Sulte states that the explorers wintered on Green +Bay, 1658-1659, then visited the tribes between Milwaukee and the river +Wisconsin in the spring of 1659. Here they learn of the Sioux and the +Crees. They push southwest first, where they see the Mississippi +between April and July, 1659. Thence they come back to the Sault. +Then they winter, 1659-1660, among the Sioux. I have not attempted to +give the dates of the itinerary; because it would be a matter of +speculation open to contradiction; but if we accept Radisson's account +at all--and that account is corroborated by writers contemporaneous +with him--we must then accept _his_ account of _where_ he went, and not +the casual guesses of modern writers who have given his journal one +hurried reading, and then sat down, without consulting documents +contemporaneous with Radisson, to inform the world of _where_ he went. +Because this is such a very sore point with two or three western +historical societies, I beg to state the reasons why I have set down +Radisson's itinerary as much farther west than has been generally +believed, though how far west he went does not efface the main and +essential fact _that Radisson was the true discoverer of the Great +Northwest_. For that, let us give him a belated credit and not obscure +the feat by disputes. (1) The term "Forked River" referred to the +Missouri and Mississippi, not the Wisconsin and Mississippi. (2) No +other rivers in that region are to be compared to the Ottawa and St. +Lawrence but the Missouri and Mississippi. (3) The Mascoutins, or +People of the Fire, among whom Radisson found himself when he descended +the Wisconsin from Green Bay, conducted him westward only as far as the +tribes allied to them, the Mascoutins of the Missouri or Nebraska. +Hence, Radisson going west-north-west to the Sioux--as he says he +did--must have skirted much farther west than Wisconsin and Minnesota. +(4) His descriptions of the Indians who knew tribes in trade with the +Spaniards must refer to the Indians south of the Big Bend of the +Missouri. (5) His description of the climate refers to the same +region. (6) The _Jesuit Relations_ confirm beyond all doubt that he +was among the main body of the great Sioux Confederacy. (7) Both his +and the Jesuit reference is to the treeless prairie, which does not +apply to the wooded lake regions of eastern Minnesota or northern +Wisconsin. + +To me, it is simply astounding--and that is putting it mildly--that any +one pretending to have read _Radisson's Journal_ can accuse him of +"claiming" to have "descended to the salt sea" (Gulf of Mexico). +Radisson makes no such claim; and to accuse him of such is like +building a straw enemy for the sake of knocking him down, or stirring +up muddy waters to make them look deep. The exact words of Radisson's +narrative are: "We went into ye great river that divides itself in 2, +where the hurrons with some Ottauake . . . had retired. . . . This +nation have warrs against those of the Forked River . . . so called +because it has 1 branches the one towards the west, the other towards +the South, wch. we believe runns towards Mexico, by the tokens they +gave us . . . they told us the prisoners they take tells them that they +have warrs against a nation . . . that have great beards and such +knives as we have" . . . etc., etc., etc. . . . "which made us believe +they were Europeans." This statement is _no_ claim that Radisson went +to Mexico, but only that he met tribes who knew tribes trading with +Spaniards of Mexico. And yet, on the careless reading of this +statement, one historian brands Radisson as a liar for "having claimed +he went to Mexico." The thing would be comical in its impudence if it +were not that many such misrepresentations of what Radisson wrote have +dimmed the glory of his real achievements. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +1661-1664 + +RADISSON'S FOURTH VOYAGE + +The Success of the Explorers arouses Envy--It becomes known that they +have heard of the Famous Sea of the North--When they ask Permission to +resume their Explorations, the French Governor refuses except on +Condition of receiving Half the Profits--In Defiance, the Explorers +steal off at Midnight--They return with a Fortune and are driven from +New France + + +Radisson was not yet twenty-six years of age, and his explorations of +the Great Northwest had won him both fame and fortune. As Spain sought +gold in the New Word, so France sought precious furs. Furs were the +only possible means of wealth to the French colony, and for ten years +the fur trade had languished owing to the Iroquois wars. For a year +after the migration of the Hurons to Onondaga, not a single beaver skin +was brought to Montreal. Then began the annual visits of the Indians +from the Upper Country to the forts of the St. Lawrence. Sweeping down +the northern rivers like wild-fowl, in far-spread, desultory flocks, +came the Indians of the _Pays d'en Haut_. Down the Ottawa to Montreal, +down the St. Maurice to Three Rivers, down the Saguenay and round to +Quebec, came the treasure-craft,--light fleets of birch canoes laden to +the water-line with beaver skins. Whence came the wealth that revived +the languishing trade of New France? From a vague, far Eldorado +somewhere round a sea in the North. Hudson had discovered this sea +half a century before Radisson's day; Jean Bourdon, a Frenchman, had +coasted up Labrador in 1657 seeking the Bay of the North; and on their +last trip the explorers had learned from the Crees who came through the +dense forests of the hinterland that there lay round this Bay of the +North a vast country with untold wealth of furs. The discovery of a +route overland to the north sea was to become the lodestar of +Radisson's life.[1] + +[Illustration: Montreal in 1760: 1, the St. Lawrence; 20, the Dock; +18-19, Arsenal; 16, the Church; 13-15, the Convent and Hospital; 8-12, +Sally-ports, River Side; 17, Cannon and Wall; 3-4-5, Houses on Island.] + +"We considered whether to reveal what we had learned," explains +Radisson, "for we had _not_ been in the Bay of the North, knowing only +what the Crees told us. We wished to discover it ourselves and have +assurance before revealing anything." But the secret leaked out. +Either Groseillers told his wife, or the Jesuits got wind of the news +from the Indians; for it was announced from Quebec that two priests, +young La Valliere, the son of the governor at Three Rivers, six other +Frenchmen, and some Indians would set out for the Bay of the North up +the Saguenay. Radisson was invited to join the company as a guide. +Needless to say that a man who had already discovered the Great +Northwest and knew the secret of the road to the North, refused to play +a second part among amateur explorers. Radisson promptly declined. +Nevertheless, in May, 1661, the Jesuits, Gabriel Dreuillettes and +Claude Dablon, accompanied by Couture, La Valliere, and three others, +set out with Indian guides for the discovery of Hudson's Bay by land. +On June 1 they began to ascend the Saguenay, pressing through vast +solitudes below the sombre precipices of the river. The rapids were +frequent, the heat was terrific, and the _portages_ arduous. Owing to +the obstinacy of the guides, the French were stopped north of Lake St. +John. Here the priests established a mission, and messengers were sent +to Quebec for instructions. + +Meanwhile, Radisson and Groseillers saw that no time must be lost. If +they would be first in the North, as they had been first in the West, +they must set out at once. Two Indian guides from the Upper Country +chanced to be in Montreal. Groseillers secured them by bringing both +to Three Rivers. Then the explorers formally applied to the French +governor, D'Avaugour, for permission to go on the voyage of discovery. +New France regulated the fur trade by license. Imprisonment, the +galleys for life, even death on a second offence, were the punishments +of those who traded without a license. The governor's answer revealed +the real animus behind his enthusiasm for discovery. He would give the +explorers a license if they would share half the profits of the trip +with him and take along two of his servants as auditors of the returns. +One can imagine the indignation of the dauntless explorers at this +answer. Their cargo of furs the preceding year had saved New France +from bankruptcy. Offering to venture their lives a second time for the +extension of the French domain, they were told they might do so if they +would share half the profits with an avaricious governor. Their answer +was characteristic. Discoverers were greater than governors; still, if +the Indians of the Upper Country invited his Excellency, Radisson and +Groseillers would be glad to have the honor of his company; as for his +servants--men who went on voyages of discovery had to act as both +masters and servants. + +D'Avaugour was furious. He issued orders forbidding the explorers to +leave Three Rivers without his express permission. Radisson and +Groseillers knew the penalties of ignoring this order. They asked the +Jesuits to intercede for them. Though Gareau had been slain trying to +ascend the Ottawa and Father Menard had by this time preached in the +forests of Lake Michigan, the Jesuits had made no great discoveries in +the Northwest. All they got for their intercessions was a snub.[2] + +While messages were still passing between the governor and the +explorers, there swept down the St. Lawrence to Three Rivers seven +canoes of Indians from the Upper Country, asking for Radisson and +Groseillers. The explorers were honorable to a degree. They notified +the governor of Quebec that they intended to embark with the Indians. +D'Avaugour stubbornly ordered the Indians to await the return of his +party from the Saguenay. The Indians made off to hide in the rushes of +Lake St. Peter. The sympathy of Three Rivers was with the explorers. +Late one night in August Radisson and Groseillers--who was captain of +the soldiers and carried the keys of the fort--slipped out from the +gates, with a third Frenchman called Lariviere. As they stepped into +their canoe, the sentry demanded, "Who goes?" "Groseillers," came the +answer through the dark. "God give you a good voyage, sir," called the +sentry, faithful to his captain rather than the governor. + +The skiff pushed out on the lapping tide. A bend in the river--and the +lights of the fort glimmering in long lines across the water had +vanished behind. The prow of Radisson's boat was once more heading +upstream for the Unknown. Paddling with all swiftness through the +dark, the three Frenchmen had come to the rushes of Lake St. Peter +before daybreak. No Indians could be found. Men of softer mettle +might have turned back. Not so Radisson. "We were well-armed and had +a good boat," he relates, "so we resolved to paddle day and night to +overtake the Indians." At the west end of the lake they came up with +the north-bound canoes. For three days and nights they pushed on +without rest. Naturally, Radisson did not pause to report progress at +Montreal. Game was so plentiful in the surrounding forests that +Iroquois hunters were always abroad in the regions of the St. Lawrence +and Ottawa.[3] Once they heard guns. Turning a bend in the river, +they discovered five Iroquois boats, just in time to avoid them. That +night the Frenchman, Lariviere, dreamed that he had been captured by +the Mohawks, and he shouted out in such terror that the alarmed Indians +rushed to embark. The next day they again came on the trail of +Iroquois. The frightened Indians from the Upper Country shouldered +their canoes and dashed through the woods. Lariviere could not keep up +and was afraid to go back from the river lest he should lose his +bearings. Fighting his way over windfall and rock, he sank exhausted +and fell asleep. Far ahead of the Iroquois boats the Upper Country +Indians came together again. The Frenchman was nowhere to be found. +It was dark. The Indians would not wait to search. Radisson and +Groseillers dared not turn back to face the irate governor. Lariviere +was abandoned. Two weeks afterwards some French hunters found him +lying on the rocks almost dead from starvation. He was sent back to +Three Rivers, where D'Avaugour had him imprisoned. This outrage the +inhabitants of Three Rivers resented. They forced the jail and rescued +Lariviere. + +Three days after the loss of Lariviere Radisson and Groseillers caught +up with seven more canoes of Indians from the Upper Country. The union +of the two bands was just in time, for the next day they were set upon +at a _portage_ by the Iroquois. Ordering the Indians to encase +themselves in bucklers of matting and buffalo hide, Radisson led the +assault on the Iroquois barricade. Trees were cut down, and the Upper +Indians rushed the rude fort with timbers extemporized into +battering-rams. In close range of the enemy, Radisson made a curious +discovery. Frenchmen were directing the Iroquois warriors. Who had +sent these French to intercept the explorers? If Radisson suspected +treachery on the part of jealous rivals from Quebec, it must have +redoubled his fury; for the Indians from the Upper Country threw +themselves in the breached barricade with such force that the Iroquois +lost heart and tossed belts of wampum over the stockades to supplicate +peace. It was almost night. Radisson's Indians drew off to consider +the terms of peace. When morning came, behold an empty fort! The +French renegades had fled with their Indian allies. + +[Illustration: Chateau St. Louis, Quebec, 1669, from one of the oldest +prints in existence.] + +Glad to be rid of the first hindrance, the explorers once more sped +north. In the afternoon, Radisson's scouts ran full tilt into a band +of Iroquois laden with beaver pelts. The Iroquois were smarting from +their defeat of the previous night; and what was Radisson's amusement +to see his own scouts and the Iroquois running from each other in equal +fright, while the ground between lay strewn with booty! Radisson +rushed his Indians for the waterside to intercept the Iroquois' flight. +The Iroquois left their boats and swam for the opposite shore, where +they threw up the usual barricade and entrenched themselves to shoot on +Radisson's passing canoes. Using the captured beaver pelts as shields, +the Upper Indians ran the gantlet of the Iroquois fire with the loss of +only one man. + +The slightest defeat may turn well-ordered retreat into panic. If the +explorers went on, the Iroquois would hang to the rear of the +travelling Indians and pick off warriors till the Upper Country people +became so weakened they would fall an easy prey. Not flight, but +fight, was Radisson's motto. He ordered his men ashore to break up the +barricade. Darkness fell over the forest. The Iroquois could not see +to fire. "They spared not their powder," relates Radisson, "but they +made more noise than hurt." Attaching a fuse to a barrel of powder, +Radisson threw this over into the Iroquois fort. The crash of the +explosion was followed by a blaze of the Iroquois musketry that killed +three of Radisson's men. Radisson then tore the bark off a birch tree, +filled the bole with powder, and in the darkness crept close to the +Iroquois barricade and set fire to the logs. Red tongues of fire +leaped up, there was a roar as of wind, and the Iroquois fort was on +fire. Radisson's men dashed through the fire, hatchet in hand. The +Iroquois answered with their death chant. Friend and foe merged in the +smoke and darkness. "We could not know one another in that skirmish of +blows," says Radisson. "There was noise to terrify the stoutest man." +In the midst of the melee a frightful storm of thunder and sheeted rain +rolled over the forest. "To my mind," writes the disgusted Radisson, +"that was something extraordinary. I think the Devil himself sent that +storm to let those wretches escape, so that they might destroy more +innocents." The rain put out the fire. As soon as the storm had +passed, Radisson kindled torches to search for the missing. Three of +his men were slain, seven wounded. Of the enemy, eleven lay dead, five +were prisoners. The rest of the Iroquois had fled to the forest. The +Upper Indians burned their prisoners according to their custom, and the +night was passed in mad orgies to celebrate the victory. "The sleep we +took did not make our heads giddy," writes Radisson. + +The next day they encountered more Iroquois. Both sides at once began +building forts; but when he could, Radisson always avoided war. Having +gained victory enough to hold the Iroquois in check, he wanted no +massacre. That night he embarked his men noiselessly; and never once +stopping to kindle camp-fire, they paddled from Friday night to Tuesday +morning. The _portages _over rocks in the dark cut the _voyageurs'_ +moccasins to shreds. Every landing was marked with the blood of +bruised feet. Sometimes they avoided leaving any trace of themselves +by walking in the stream, dragging their boats along the edge of the +rapids. By Tuesday the Indians were so fagged that they could go no +farther without rest. Canoes were moored in the hiding of the rushes +till the _voyageurs_ slept. They had been twenty-two days going from +Three Rivers to Lake Nipissing, and had not slept one hour on land. + +It was October when they came to Lake Superior. The forests were +painted in all the glory of autumn, and game abounded. White fish +appeared under the clear, still waters of the lake like shoals of +floating metal; bears were seen hulking away from the watering places +of sandy shores; and wild geese whistled overhead. After the terrible +dangers of the voyage, with scant sleep and scanter fare, the country +seemed, as Radisson says, a terrestrial paradise. The Indians gave +solemn thanks to their gods of earth and forest, "and we," writes +Radisson, "to the God of gods." Indian summer lay on the land. +November found the explorers coasting the south shore of Lake Superior. +They passed the Island of Michilimackinac with its stone arches. +Radisson heard from the Indians of the copper mines. He saw the +pictured rocks that were to become famous for beauty. "I gave it the +name of St. Peter because that was my name and I was the first +Christian to see it," he writes of the stone arch. "There were in +these places very deep caves, caused by the violence of the waves." +Jesuits had been on the part of Lake Superior near the Sault, and poor +Menard perished in the forests of Lake Michigan; but Radisson and +Groseillers were the first white men to cruise from south to west and +west to north, where a chain of lakes and waterways leads from the +Minnesota lake country to the prairies now known as Manitoba. Before +the end of November the explorers rounded the western end of Lake +Superior and proceeded northwest. Radisson records that they came to +great winter encampments of the Crees; and the Crees did not venture +east for fear of Sautaux and Iroquois. He mentions a river of +Sturgeons, where was a great store of fish. + +The Crees wished to conduct the two white men to the wooded lake +region, northwest towards the land of the Assiniboines, where Indian +families took refuge on islands from those tigers of the plains--the +Sioux--who were invincible on horseback but less skilful in canoes. +The rivers were beginning to freeze. Boats were abandoned; but there +was no snow for snow-shoe travelling, and the explorers were unable to +transport the goods brought for trade. Bidding the Crees go to their +families and bring back slaves to carry the baggage, Radisson and +Groseillers built themselves the first fort and the first fur post +between the Missouri and the North Pole. It was evidently somewhere +west of Duluth in either what is now Minnesota or northwestern Ontario. + + +This fur post was the first habitation of civilization in all the Great +Northwest. Not the railway, not the cattle trail, not the path of +forward-marching empire purposely hewing a way through the wilderness, +opened the West. It was the fur trade that found the West. It was the +fur trade that explored the West. It was the fur trade that wrested +the West from savagery. The beginning was in the little fort built by +Radisson and Groseillers. No great factor in human progress ever had a +more insignificant beginning. + +The fort was rushed up by two men almost starving for food. It was on +the side of a river, built in the shape of a triangle, with the base at +the water side. The walls were of unbarked logs, the roof of thatched +branches interlaced, with the door at the river side. In the middle of +the earth floor, so that the smoke would curl up where the branches +formed a funnel or chimney, was the fire. On the right of the fire, +two hewn logs overlaid with pine boughs made a bed. On the left, +another hewn log acted as a table. Jumbled everywhere, hanging from +branches and knobs of branches, were the firearms, clothing, and +merchandise of the two fur traders. Naturally, a fort two thousand +miles from help needed sentries. Radisson had not forgotten his +boyhood days of Onondaga. He strung carefully concealed cords through +the grass and branches around the fort. To these bells were fastened, +and the bells were the sentries. The two white men could now sleep +soundly without fear of approach. This fort, from which sprang the +buoyant, aggressive, prosperous, free life of the Great Northwest, was +founded and built and completed in two days. + +The West had begun.[4] + +It was a beginning which every Western pioneer was to repeat for the +next two hundred years: first, the log cabins; then, the fight with the +wilderness for food. + +Radisson, being the younger, went into the woods to hunt, while +Groseillers kept house. Wild geese and ducks were whistling south, but +"the whistling that I made," writes Radisson, "was another music than +theirs; for I killed three and scared the rest." Strange Indians came +through the forest, but were not admitted to the tiny fort, lest +knowledge of the traders' weakness should tempt theft. Many a night +the explorers were roused by a sudden ringing of the bells or crashing +through the underbrush, to find that wild animals had been attracted by +the smell of meat, and wolverine or wildcat was attempting to tear +through the matted branches of the thatched roof. The desire for +firearms has tempted Indians to murder many a trader; so Radisson and +Groseillers _cached_ all the supplies that they did not need in a hole +across the river. News of the two white men alone in the northern +forest spread like wild-fire to the different Sautaux and Ojibway +encampments; and Radisson invented another protection in addition to +the bells. He rolled gunpowder in twisted tubes of birch bark, and ran +a circle of this round the fort. Putting a torch to the birch, he +surprised the Indians by displaying to them a circle of fire running +along the ground in a series of jumps. To the Indians it was magic. +The two white men were engirt with a mystery that defended them from +all harm. Thus white men passed their first winter in the Great +Northwest. + +Toward winter four hundred Crees came to escort the explorers to the +wooded lake region yet farther west towards the land of the +Assiniboines, the modern Manitoba. "We were Caesars," writes Radisson. +"There was no one to contradict us. We went away free from any burden, +while those poor miserables thought themselves happy to carry our +equipage in the hope of getting a brass ring, or an awl, or a +needle. . . . They admired our actions more than the fools of Paris +their king. . . .[5] They made a great noise, calling us gods and +devils. We marched four days through the woods. The country was +beautiful with clear parks. At last we came within a league of the +Cree cabins, where we spent the night that we might enter the +encampment with pomp the next day. The swiftest Indians ran ahead to +warn the people of our coming." Embarking in boats, where the water +was open, the two explorers came to the Cree lodges. They were +welcomed with shouts. Messengers marched in front, scattering presents +from the white men,--kettles to call all to a feast of friendship; +knives to encourage the warriors to be brave; swords to signify that +the white men would fight all enemies of the Cree; and abundance of +trinkets--needles and awls and combs and tin mirrors--for the women. +The Indians prostrated themselves as slaves; and the explorers were +conducted to a grand council of welcome. A feast was held, followed by +a symbolic dance in celebration of the white men's presence. + +Their entry to the Great Northwest had been a triumph: but they could +not escape the privations of the explorer's life. Winter set in with a +severity to make up for the long, late autumn. Snow fell continuously +till day and night were as one, the sombre forests muffled to silence +with the wild creatures driven for shelter to secret haunts. Four +hundred men had brought the explorers north. Allowing an average of +four to each family, there must have been sixteen hundred people in the +encampment of Crees. To prevent famine, the Crees scattered to the +winter hunting-grounds, arranging to come together again in two months +at a northern rendezvous. When Radisson and Groseillers came to the +rendezvous, they learned that the gathering hunters had had poor luck. +Food was short. To make matters worse, heavy rains were followed by +sharp frost. The snow became iced over, destroying rabbit and grouse, +which feed the large game. Radisson noticed that the Indians often +snatched food from the hands of hungry children. More starving Crees +continued to come into camp. Soon the husbands were taking the wives' +share of food, and the women were subsisting on dried pelts. The Crees +became too weak to carry their snow-shoes, or to gather wood for fire. +The cries of the dying broke the deathly stillness of the winter +forest; and the strong began to dog the footsteps of the weak. "Good +God, have mercy on these innocent people," writes Radisson; "have mercy +on us who acknowledge Thee!" Digging through the snow with their +rackets, some of the Crees got roots to eat. Others tore the bark from +trees and made a kind of soup that kept them alive. Two weeks after +the famine set in, the Indians were boiling the pulverized bones of the +waste heap. After that the only food was the buckskin that had been +tanned for clothing. "We ate it so eagerly," writes Radisson, "that +our gums did bleed. . . . We became the image of death." Before the +spring five hundred Crees had died of famine. Radisson and Groseillers +scarcely had strength to drag the dead from the tepees. The Indians +thought that Groseillers had been fed by some fiend, for his heavy, +black beard covered his thin face. Radisson they loved, because his +beardless face looked as gaunt as theirs.[6] + +Relief came with the breaking of the weather. The rain washed the iced +snows away; deer began to roam; and with the opening of the rivers came +two messengers from the Sioux to invite Radisson and Groseillers to +visit their nation. The two Sioux had a dog, which they refused to +sell for all Radisson's gifts. The Crees dared not offend the Sioux +ambassadors by stealing the worthless cur on which such hungry eyes +were cast, but at night Radisson slipped up to the Sioux tepee. The +dog came prowling out. Radisson stabbed it so suddenly that it dropped +without a sound. Hurrying back, he boiled and fed the meat to the +famishing Crees. When the Sioux returned to their own country, they +sent a score of slaves with food for the starving encampment. No doubt +Radisson had plied the first messengers with gifts; for the slaves +brought word that thirty picked runners from the Sioux were coming to +escort the white men to the prairie. To receive their benefactors, and +also, perhaps, to show that they were not defenceless, the Crees at +once constructed a fort; for Cree and Sioux had been enemies from time +immemorial. In two days came the runners, clad only in short garments, +and carrying bow and quiver. The Crees led the young braves to the +fort. Kettles were set out. Fagged from the long run, the Sioux ate +without a word. At the end of the meal one rose. Shooting an arrow +into the air as a sign that he called Deity to witness the truth of his +words, he proclaimed in a loud voice that the elders of the Sioux +nation would arrive next day at the fort to make a treaty with the +French. + +The news was no proof of generosity. The Sioux were the great warriors +of the West. They knew very well that whoever formed an alliance with +the French would obtain firearms; and firearms meant victory against +all other tribes. The news set the Crees by the ears. Warriors +hastened from the forests to defend the fort. The next day came the +elders of the Sioux in pomp. They were preceded by the young braves +bearing bows and arrows and buffalo-skin shields on which were drawn +figures portraying victories. Their hair was turned up in a stiff +crest surmounted by eagle feathers, and their bodies were painted +bright vermilion. Behind came the elders, with medicine-bags of +rattlesnake skin streaming from their shoulders and long strings of +bears' claws hanging from neck and wrist. They were dressed in +buckskin, garnished with porcupine quills, and wore moccasins of +buffalo hide, with the hair dangling from the heel. In the belt of +each was a skull-cracker--a sort of sling stone with a long handle--and +a war-hatchet. Each elder carried a peace pipe set with precious +stones, and stuck in the stem were the quills of the war eagle to +represent enemies slain. Women slaves followed, loaded with skins for +the elders' tents. + +[Illustration: A parley on the Plains.] + +A great fire had been kindled inside the court of the Cree stockades. +Round the pavilion the Sioux elders seated themselves. First, they +solemnly smoked the calumet of peace. Then the chief of the Sioux rose +and chanted a song, giving thanks for their safe journey. Setting +aside gifts of rare beaver pelts, he declared that the Sioux had come +to make friends with the French, who were masters of peace and war; +that the elders would conduct the white men back to the Sioux country; +that the mountains were levelled and the valleys cast up, and the way +made smooth, and branches strewn on the ground for the white men's +feet, and streams bridged, and the doors of the tepees open. Let the +French come to the Sioux! The Indians would die for the French. A +gift was presented to invoke the friendship of the Crees. Another rich +gift of furs let out the secret of the Sioux' anxiety: it was that the +French might give the Sioux "thunder weapons," meaning guns. + +The speech being finished, the Crees set a feast before their guests. +To this feast Radisson and Groseillers came in a style that eclipsed +the Sioux. Cree warriors marched in front, carrying guns. Radisson +and Groseillers were dressed in armor.[7] At their belts they wore +pistol, sword, and dagger. On their heads were crowns of colored +porcupine quills. Two pages carried the dishes and spoons to be used +at the feast; and four Cree magicians followed with smoking calumets in +their hands. Four Indian maids carried bearskins to place on the +ground when the two explorers deigned to sit down. Inside the fort +more than six hundred councillors had assembled. Outside were gathered +a thousand spectators. As Radisson and Groseillers entered, an old +Cree flung a peace pipe at the explorers' feet and sang a song of +thanksgiving to the sun that he had lived to see "those terrible men +whose words (guns) made the earth quake." Stripping himself of his +costly furs, he placed them on the white men's shoulders, shouting: "Ye +are masters over us; dead or alive, dispose of us as you will." + +Then Radisson rose and chanted a song, in which he declared that the +French took the Crees for brethren and would defend them. To prove his +words, he threw powder in the fire and had twelve guns shot off, which +frightened the Sioux almost out of their senses. A slave girl placed a +coal in the calumet. Radisson then presented gifts; the first to +testify that the French adopted the Sioux for friends; the second as a +token that the French also took the Crees for friends; the third as a +sign that the French "would reduce to powder with heavenly fire" any +one who disturbed the peace between these tribes. The fourth gift was +in grateful recognition of the Sioux' courtesy in granting free passage +through their country. The gifts consisted of kettles and hatchets and +awls and needles and looking-glasses and bells and combs and paint, but +_not_ guns. Radisson's speech was received with "Ho, ho's" of +applause. Sports began. Radisson offered prizes for racing, jumping, +shooting with the bow, and climbing a greased post. All the while, +musicians were singing and beating the tom-tom, a drum made of buffalo +hide stretched on hoops and filled with water. + +Fourteen days later Radisson and Groseillers set out for the Sioux +country, or what are now known as the Northwestern states.[8] On the +third voyage Radisson came to the Sioux from the south. On this +voyage, he came to them from the northeast. He found that the tribe +numbered seven thousand men of fighting age. He remarked that the +Sioux used a kind of coke or peat for fire instead of wood. While he +heard of the tribes that used coal for fire, he does not relate that he +went to them on this trip. Again he heard of the mountains far inland, +where the Indians found copper and lead and a kind of stone that was +transparent.[9] He remained six weeks with the Sioux, hunting buffalo +and deer. Between the Missouri and the Saskatchewan ran a well-beaten +trail northeastward, which was used by the Crees and the Sioux in their +wars. It is probable that the Sioux escorted Radisson back to the +Crees by this trail, till he was across what is now the boundary +between Minnesota and Canada, and could strike directly eastward for +the Lake of the Woods region, or the hinterland between James Bay and +Lake Superior. + +In spring the Crees went to the Bay of the North, which Radisson was +seeking; and after leaving the Sioux, the two explorers struck for the +little fort north of Lake Superior, where they had _cached_ their +goods. Spring in the North was later than spring in the South; but the +shore ice of the Northern lakes had already become soft. To save time +they cut across the lakes of Minnesota, dragging their sleighs on the +ice. Groseillers' sleigh was loaded with pelts obtained from the +Sioux, and the elder man began to fag. Radisson took the heavy sleigh, +giving Groseillers the lighter one. About twelve miles out from the +shore, on one of these lakes, the ice suddenly gave, and Radisson +plunged through to his waist. It was as dangerous to turn back as to +go on. If they deserted their merchandise, they would have nothing to +trade with the Indians; but when Radisson succeeded in extricating +himself, he was so badly strained that he could not go forward another +step. There was no sense in risking both their lives on the rotten +ice. He urged Groseillers to go on. Groseillers dared not hesitate. +Laying two sleds as a wind-break on each side of Radisson, he covered +the injured man with robes, consigned him to the keeping of God, and +hurried over the ice to obtain help from the Crees. + +The Crees got Radisson ashore, and there he lay in agony for eight +days. The Indians were preparing to set out for the North. They +invited Radisson to go with them. His sprain had not healed; but he +could not miss the opportunity of approaching the Bay of the North. +For two days he marched with the hunters, enduring torture at every +step. The third day he could go no farther and they deserted him. +Groseillers had gone hunting with another band of Crees. Radisson had +neither gun nor hatchet, and the Indians left him only ten pounds of +pemmican. After a short rest he journeyed painfully on, following the +trail of the marching Crees. On the fifth day he found the frame of a +deserted wigwam. Covering it with branches of trees and kindling a +fire to drive off beasts of prey, he crept in and lay down to sleep. +He was awakened by a crackling of flame. The fire had caught the pine +boughs and the tepee was in a blaze. Radisson flung his snow-shoes and +clothing as far as he could, and broke from the fire-trap. +Half-dressed and lame, shuddering with cold and hunger, he felt through +the dark over the snow for his clothing. A far cry rang through the +forest like the bay of the wolf pack. Radisson kept solitary watch +till morning, when he found that the cry came from Indians sent out to +find him by Groseillers. He was taken to an encampment, where the +Crees were building canoes to go to the Bay of the North. + +The entire band, with the two explorers, then launched on the rivers +flowing north. "We were in danger to perish a thousand times from the +ice jam," writes Radisson. ". . . At last we came full sail from a +deep bay . . . we came to the seaside, where we found an old house all +demolished and battered with bullets. . . . They (the Crees) told us +about Europeans. . . . We went from isle to isle all that +summer. . . . This region had a great store of cows (caribou). . . . +We went farther to see the place that the Indians were to pass the +summer. . . . The river (where they went) came from the lake that +empties itself in . . . the Saguenay . . . a hundred leagues from the +great river of Canada (the St. Lawrence) . . . to where we were in the +Bay of the North. . . . We passed the summer quietly coasting the +seaside. . . . The people here burn not their prisoners, but knock +them on the head. . . . They have a store of turquoise. . . . They +find green stones, very fine, at the same Bay of the Sea +(labradorite). . . . We went up another river to the Upper Lake +(Winnipeg)." [10] + +For years the dispute has been waged with zeal worthy of a better cause +whether Radisson referred to Hudson Bay in this passage. The French +claim that he did; the English that he did not. "The house demolished +with bullets" was probably an old trading post, contend the English; +but there was no trading post except Radisson's west of Lake Superior +at that time, retort the French. By "cows" Radisson meant buffalo, and +no buffalo were found as far east as Hudson Bay, say the English; by +"cows" Radisson meant caribou and deer, and herds of these frequented +the shores of Hudson Bay, answer the French. No river comes from the +Saguenay to Hudson Bay, declare the English; yes, but a river comes +from the direction of the Saguenay, and was followed by subsequent +explorers, assert the French.[11] The stones of turquoise and green +were agates from Lake Superior, explain the English; the stones were +labradorites from the east coast of the Bay, maintain the French. So +the childish quarrel has gone on for two centuries. England and France +alike conspired to crush the man while he lived; and when he died they +quarrelled over the glory of his discoveries. The point is not whether +Radisson actually wet his oars in the different indentations of Hudson +and James bays. The point is that he found where it lay from the Great +Lakes, and discovered the watershed sloping north from the Great Lakes +to Hudson Bay. This was new ground, and entitled Radisson to the fame +of a discoverer. + +From the Indians of the bay, Radisson heard of another lake leagues to +the north, whose upper end was always frozen. This was probably some +vague story of the lakes in the region that was to become known two +centuries later as Mackenzie River. The spring of 1663 found the +explorers back in the Lake of the Woods region accompanied by seven +hundred Indians of the Upper Country. The company filled three hundred +and sixty canoes. Indian girls dived into the lake to push the canoes +off, and stood chanting a song of good-speed till the boats had glided +out of sight through the long, narrow, rocky gaps of the Lake of the +Woods. At Lake Superior the company paused to lay up a supply of +smoked sturgeon. At the Sault four hundred Crees turned back. The +rest of the Indians hoisted blankets on fishing-poles, and, with a west +wind, scudded across Lake Huron to Lake Nipissing. From Lake Nipissing +they rode safely down the Ottawa to Montreal. Cannon were fired to +welcome the discoverers, for New France was again on the verge of +bankruptcy from a beaver famine. + +A different welcome awaited them at Quebec. D'Argenson, the governor, +was about to leave for France, and nothing had come of the Jesuit +expedition up the Saguenay. He had already sent Couture, for a second +time, overland to find a way to Hudson Bay; but no word had come from +Couture, and the governor's time was up. The explorers had disobeyed +him in leaving without his permission. Their return with a fortune of +pelts was the salvation of the impecunious governor. From 1627 to 1663 +five distinct fur companies, organized under the patronage of royalty, +had gone bankrupt in New France.[12] Therefore, it became a loyal +governor to protect his Majesty's interests. Besides, the revenue +collectors could claim one-fourth of all returns in beaver except from +posts farmed expressly for the king. No sooner had Radisson and +Groseillers come home than D'Argenson ordered Groseillers imprisoned. +He then fined the explorers $20,000, to build a fort at Three Rivers, +giving them leave to put their coats-of-arms on the gate; a $30,000 +fine was to go to the public treasury of New France; $70,000 worth of +beaver was seized as the tax due the revenue. Of a cargo worth +$300,000 in modern money, Radisson and Groseillers had less than +$20,000 left.[13] + +Had D'Argenson and his successors encouraged instead of persecuted the +discoverers, France could have claimed all North America but the narrow +strip of New England on the east and the Spanish settlements on the +south. Having repudiated Radisson and Groseillers, France could not +claim the fruits of deeds which she punished.[14] + + +[1] The childish dispute whether Bourdon sailed into the bay and up to +its head, or only to 50 degrees N. latitude, does not concern +Radisson's life, and, therefore, is ignored. One thing I can state +with absolute certainty from having been up the coast of Labrador in a +most inclement season, that Bourdon could not possibly have gone to and +back from the inner waters of Hudson Bay between May 2 and August 11. +J. Edmond Roy and Mr. Sulte both pronounce Bourdon a myth, and his trip +a fabrication. + +[2] "Shame put upon them," says Radisson. Menard did _not_ go out with +Radisson and Groseillers, as is erroneously recorded. + +[3] I have purposely avoided stating whether Radisson went by way of +Lake Ontario or the Ottawa. Dr. Dionne thinks that he went by Ontario +and Niagara because Radisson refers to vast waterfalls under which a +man could walk. Radisson gives the height of these falls as forty +feet. Niagara are nearer three hundred; and the Chaudiere of the +Ottawa would answer Radisson's description better, were it not that he +says a man could go under the falls for a quarter of a mile. "The Lake +of the Castors" plainly points to Lake Nipissing. + +[4] The two main reasons why I think that Radisson and Groseillers were +now moving up that chain of lakes and rivers between Minnesota and +Canada, connecting Lake of the Woods with Lake Winnipeg, are: (1) +Oldmixon says it was the report of the Assiniboine Indians from Lake +Assiniboine (Lake Winnipeg) that led Radisson to seek for the Bay of +the North overland. These Assiniboines did not go to the bay by way of +Lake Superior, but by way of Lake Winnipeg. (2) A memoire written by +De la Chesnaye in 1696--see _Documents Nouvelle France_, +1492-1712--distinctly refers to a _coureur's_ trail from Lake Superior +to Lake Assiniboine or Lake Winnipeg. There is no record of any +Frenchmen but Radisson and Groseillers having followed such a trail to +the land of the Assiniboines--the Manitoba of to-day--before 1676. + +[5] One can guess that a man who wrote in that spirit two centuries +before the French Revolution would not be a sycophant in +courts,--which, perhaps, helps to explain the conspiracy of silence +that obscured Radisson's fame. + +[6] My reason for thinking that this region was farther north than +Minnesota is the size of the Cree winter camp; but I have refrained +from trying to localize this part of the trip, except to say it was +west and north of Duluth. Some writers recognize in the description +parts of Minnesota, others the hinterland between Lake Superior and +James Bay. In the light of the _memoire_ of 1696 sent to the French +government, I am unable to regard this itinerary as any other than the +famous fur traders' trail between Lake Superior and Lake Winnipeg by +way of Sturgeon River and the Lake of the Woods. + +[7] _Radisson Relations_, p. 207. + +[8] We are now on safe ground. There was a well-known trail from what +is now known as the Rat Portage region to the great Sioux camps west of +the Mississippi and Red River valleys. But again I refuse to lay +myself open to controversy by trying definitely to give either the +dates or exact places of this trip. + +[9] If any proof is wanted that Radisson's journeyings took him far +west of the Mississippi, these details afford it. + +[10] _Radisson's Journal_, pp. 224, 225, 226. + +[11] Mr. A. P. Low, who has made the most thorough exploration of +Labrador and Hudson Bay of any man living, says, "Rupert River forms +the discharge of the Mistassini lakes . . . and empties into Rupert Bay +close to the mouth of the Nottoway River, and rises in a number of +lakes close to the height of land dividing it from the St. Maurice +River, which joins the St. Lawrence at Three Rivers." + +[12] _Les Compagnies de Colonisation sous l'ancien regime_, by +Chailly-Bert. + +[13] Oldmixon says: "Radisson and Groseillers met with some savages on +the Lake of Assiniboin, and from them they learned that they might go +by land to the bottom of Hudson's Bay, where the English had not been +yet, at James Bay; upon which they desired them to conduct them +thither, and the savages accordingly did it. They returned to the +Upper Lake the same way they came, and thence to Quebec, where they +offered the principal merchants to carry ships to Hudson's Bay; but +their project was rejected." Vol. I, p. 548. Radisson's figures are +given as "pounds "; but by "_L_" did he mean English "pound" or French +livre, that is 17 cents? A franc in 1660 equalled the modern dollar. + +[14] The exact tribes mentioned in the _Memoire of 1696_, with whom the +French were in trade in the West are: On the "Missoury" and south of +it, the Mascoutins and Sioux; two hundred miles beyond the "Missisipy" +the Issaguy, the Octbatons, the Omtous, of whom were Sioux capable of +mustering four thousand warriors, south of Lake Superior, the Sauteurs, +on "Sipisagny, the river which is the discharge of Lake Asemipigon" +(Winnipeg), the "Nation of the Grand Rat," Algonquins numbering two +thousand, who traded with the English of Hudson Bay, De la Chesnaye +adds in his memoire details of the trip from Lake Superior to the lake +of the Assiniboines. Knowing what close co-workers he and Radisson +were, we can guess where he got his information. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +1664-1676 + +RADISSON RENOUNCES ALLEGIANCE TO TWO CROWNS + +Rival Traders thwart the Plans of the Discoverers--Entangled in +Lawsuits, the two French Explorers go to England--The Organization of +the Hudson's Bay Fur Company--Radisson the Storm-centre of +International Intrigue--Boston Merchants in the Struggle to capture the +Fur Trade + + +Henceforth Radisson and Groseillers were men without a country. Twice +their return from the North with cargoes of beaver had saved New France +from ruin. They had discovered more of America than all the other +explorers combined. Their reward was jealous rivalry that reduced them +to beggary; injustice that compelled them to renounce allegiance to two +crowns; obloquy during a lifetime; and oblivion for two centuries after +their death. The very force of unchecked impulse that carries the hero +over all obstacles may also carry him over the bounds of caution and +compromise that regulate the conduct of other men. This was the case +with Radisson and Groseillers. They were powerless to resist the +extortion of the French governor. The Company of One Hundred +Associates had given place to the Company of the West Indies. This +trading venture had been organized under the direct patronage of the +king.[1] It had been proclaimed from the pulpits of France. +Privileges were promised to all who subscribed for the stock. The +Company was granted a blank list of titles to bestow on its patrons and +servants. No one else in New France might engage in the beaver trade; +no one else might buy skins from the Indians and sell the pelts in +Europe; and one-fourth of the trade went for public revenue. In spite +of all the privileges, fur company after fur company failed in New +France; but to them Radisson had to sell his furs, and when the revenue +officers went over the cargo, the minions of the governor also seized a +share under pretence of a fine for trading without a license. + +Groseillers was furious, and sailed for France to demand restitution; +but the intriguing courtiers proved too strong for him. Though he +spent 10,000 pounds, nothing was done. D'Avaugour had come back to +France, and stockholders of the jealous fur company were all-powerful +at court. Groseillers then relinquished all idea of restitution, and +tried to interest merchants in another expedition to Hudson Bay by way +of the sea.[2] He might have spared himself the trouble. His +enthusiasm only aroused the quiet smile of supercilious indifference. +His plans were regarded as chimerical. Finally a merchant of Rochelle +half promised to send a boat to Isle Percee at the mouth of the St. +Lawrence in 1664. Groseillers had already wasted six months. Eager +for action, he hurried back to Three Rivers, where Radisson awaited +him. The two secretly took passage in a fishing schooner to Anticosti, +and from Anticosti went south to Isle Percee. Here a Jesuit just out +from France bore the message to them that no ship would come. The +promise had been a put-off to rid France of the enthusiast. New France +had treated them with injustice. Old France with mockery. Which way +should they turn? They could not go back to Three Rivers. This +attempt to go to Hudson Bay without a license laid them open to a +second fine. Baffled, but not beaten, the explorers did what +ninety-nine men out of a hundred would have done in similar +circumstances--they left the country. Some rumor of their intention to +abandon New France must have gone abroad; for when they reached Cape +Breton, their servants grumbled so loudly that a mob of Frenchmen +threatened to burn the explorers. Dismissing their servants, Radisson +and Groseillers escaped to Port Royal, Nova Scotia. + +[Illustration: Martello Tower of Refuge in Time of Indian Wars--Three +Rivers.] + +In Port Royal they met a sea-captain from Boston, Zechariah Gillam, who +offered his ship for a voyage to Hudson Bay, but the season was far +spent when they set out. Captain Gillam was afraid to enter the +ice-locked bay so late in summer. The boat turned back, and the trip +was a loss. This run of ill-luck had now lasted for a year. They +still had some money from the Northern trips, and they signed a +contract with ship-owners of Boston to take two vessels to Hudson Bay +the following spring. Provisions must be laid up for the long voyage. +One of the ships was sent to the Grand Banks for fish. Rounding +eastward past the crescent reefs of Sable Island, the ship was caught +by the beach-combers and totally wrecked on the drifts of sand. +Instead of sailing for Hudson Bay in the spring of 1665, Radisson and +Groseillers were summoned to Boston to defend themselves in a lawsuit +for the value of the lost vessel. They were acquitted; but lawsuits on +the heels of misfortune exhausted the resources of the adventurers. +The exploits of the two Frenchmen had become the sensation of Boston. +Sir Robert Carr, one of the British commissioners then in the New +England colonies, urged Radisson and Groseillers to renounce allegiance +to a country that had shown only ingratitude, and to come to +England.[3] When Sir George Cartwright sailed from Nantucket on August +1, 1665, he was accompanied by Radisson and Groseillers.[4] Misfortune +continued to dog them. Within a few days' sail of England, their ship +encountered the Dutch cruiser _Caper_. For two hours the ships poured +broadsides of shot into each other's hulls. The masts were torn from +the English vessel. She was boarded and stripped, and the Frenchmen +were thoroughly questioned. Then the captives were all landed in +Spain. Accompanied by the two Frenchmen, Sir George Cartwright +hastened to England early in 1666. The plague had driven the court +from London to Oxford. Cartwright laid the plans of the explorers +before Charles II. The king ordered 40s. a week paid to Radisson and +Groseillers for the winter. They took chambers in London. Later they +followed the court to Windsor, where they were received by King Charles. + +The English court favored the project of trade in Hudson Bay, but +during the Dutch war nothing could be done. The captain of the Dutch +ship _Caper_ had sent word of the French explorers to De Witt, the +great statesman. De Witt despatched a spy from Picardy, France, one +Eli Godefroy Touret, who chanced to know Groseillers, to meet the +explorers in London. Masking as Groseillers' nephew, Touret tried to +bribe both men to join the Dutch. Failing this, he attempted to +undermine their credit with the English by accusing Radisson and +Groseillers of counterfeiting money; but the English court refused to +be deceived, and Touret was imprisoned. Owing to the plague and the +war, two years passed without the vague promises of the English court +taking shape. Montague, the English ambassador to France, heard of the +explorers' feats, and wrote to Prince Rupert. Prince Rupert was a +soldier of fortune, who could enter into the spirit of the explorers. +He had fought on the losing side against Cromwell, and then taken to +the high seas to replenish broken fortunes by piracy. The wealth of +the beaver trade appealed to him. He gave all the influence of his +_prestige_ to the explorers' plans. By the spring of 1668 money enough +had been advanced to fit out two boats for Hudson Bay. In the _Eagle_, +with Captain Stannard, went Radisson; in the _Nonsuch_, with Captain +Zechariah Gillam of Boston, went Groseillers. North of Ireland furious +gales drove the ships apart. Radisson's vessel was damaged and driven +back to London; but his year was not wasted. It is likely that the +account of his first voyages was written while Groseillers was away.[5] +Sometime during his stay in London he married Mary Kirke, a daughter of +the Huguenot John Kirke, whose family had long ago gone from Boston and +captured Quebec. + +Gillam's journal records that the _Nonsuch_ left Gravesend the 3d of +June, 1668, reached Resolution Island on August 4, and came to anchor +at the south of James Bay on September 29.[6] It was here that +Radisson had come overland five years before, when he thought that he +discovered a river flowing from the direction of the St. Lawrence. The +river was Nemisco. Groseillers called it Rupert in honor of his +patron. A palisaded fort was at once built, and named King Charles +after the English monarch. By December, the bay was locked in the +deathly silence of northern frost. Snow fell till the air became +darkened day after day, a ceaseless fall of muffling snow; the +earth--as Gillam's journal says--"seemed frozen to death." Gillam +attended to the fort, Groseillers to the trade. Dual command was bound +to cause a clash. By April, 1669, the terrible cold had relaxed. The +ice swept out of the river with a roar. Wild fowl came winging north +in myriad flocks. By June the fort was sweltering in almost tropical +heat. The _Nonsuch_ hoisted anchor and sailed for England, loaded to +the water-line with a cargo of furs. Honors awaited Groseillers in +London. King Charles created him a _Knight de la Jarretiere_, an order +for princes of the royal blood.[7] In addition, he was granted a sum +of money. Prince Rupert and Radisson had, meanwhile, been busy +organizing a fur company. The success of Groseillers' voyage now +assured this company a royal charter, which was granted in May, 1670. +Such was the origin of the Hudson's Bay Company. Prince Rupert was its +first governor; Charles Bayly was appointed resident governor on the +bay. Among the first shareholders were Prince Rupert, the Duke of +York, Sir George Cartwright, the Duke of Albermarle, Shaftesbury, Sir +Peter Colleton, who had advanced Radisson a loan during the long period +of waiting, and Sir John Kirke, whose daughter had married Radisson. + +That spring, Radisson and Groseillers again sailed for the bay. In +1671, three ships were sent out from England, and Radisson established +a second post westward at Moose. With Governor Bayly, he sailed up and +met the Indians at what was to become the great fur capital of the +north, Port Nelson, or York. The third year of the company's +existence, Radisson and Groseillers perceived a change. Not so many +Indians came down to the English forts to trade. Those who came brought +fewer pelts and demanded higher prices. Rivals had been at work. The +English learned that the French had come overland and were paying high +prices to draw the Indians from the bay. In the spring a council was +held.[8] Should they continue on the east side of the bay, or move +west, where there would be no rivalry? Groseillers boldly counselled +moving inland and driving off French competition. Bayly was for moving +west. He even hinted that Groseillers' advice sprang from disloyalty +to the English. The clash that was inevitable from divided command was +this time avoided by compromise. They would all sail west, and all +come back to Rupert's River. When they returned, they found that the +English ensign had been torn down and the French flag raised.[9] A +veteran Jesuit missionary of the Saguenay, Charles Albanel, two French +companions, and some Indian guides had ensconced themselves in the +empty houses.[10] The priest now presented Governor Bayly with letters +from Count Frontenac commending the French to the good offices of +Governor Bayly.[11] + +France had not been idle. + +When it was too late, the country awakened to the injustice done +Radisson and Groseillers. While Radisson was still in Boston, all +restrictions were taken from the beaver trade, except the tax of +one-fourth to the revenue. The Jesuit Dablon, who was near the western +end of Lake Superior, gathered all the information he could from the +Indians of the way to the Sea of the North. Father Marquette learned +of the Mississippi from the Indians. The Western tribes had been +summoned to the Sault, where Sieur de Saint-Lusson met them in treaty +for the French; and the French flag was raised in the presence of Pere +Claude Allouez, who blessed the ceremony. M. Colbert sent instructions +to M. Talon, the intendant of New France, to grant titles of nobility +to Groseillers' nephew in order to keep him in the country.[12] On the +Saguenay was a Jesuit, Charles Albanel, loyal to the French and of +English birth, whose devotion to the Indians during the small-pox +scourge of 1670 had given him unbounded influence. Talon, the +intendant of New France, was keen to retrieve in the North what +D'Argenson's injustice had lost. Who could be better qualified to go +overland to Hudson Bay than the old missionary, loyal to France, of +English birth, and beloved by the Indians? Albanel was summoned to +Quebec and gladly accepted the commission. He chose for companions +Saint-Simon and young Couture, the son of the famous guide to the +Jesuits. The company left Quebec on August 6, 1671, and secured a +guide at Tadoussac. Embarking in canoes, they ascended the shadowy +canon of the Saguenay to Lake St. John. On the 7th of September they +left the forest of Lake St. John and mounted the current of a winding +river, full of cataracts and rapids, toward Mistassini. On this stream +they met Indians who told them that two European vessels were on Hudson +Bay. The Indians showed Albanel tobacco which they had received from +the English. + +It seemed futile to go on a voyage of discovery where English were +already in possession. The priest sent one of the Frenchmen and two +Indians back to Quebec for passports and instructions. What the +instructions were can only be guessed by subsequent developments. The +messengers left the depth of the forest on the 19th of September, and +had returned from Quebec by the 10th of October. Snow was falling. +The streams had frozen, and the Indians had gone into camp for the +winter. Going from wigwam to wigwam through the drifted forest. Father +Albanel passed the winter preaching to the savages. Skins of the chase +were laid on the wigwams. Against the pelts, snow was banked to close +up every chink. Inside, the air was blue with smoke and the steam of +the simmering kettle. Indian hunters lay on the moss floor round the +central fires. Children and dogs crouched heterogeneously against the +sloping tent walls. Squaws plodded through the forest, setting traps +and baiting the fish-lines that hung through airholes of the thick ice. +In these lodges Albanel wintered. He was among strange Indians and +suffered incredible hardships. Where there was room, he, too, sat +crouched under the crowded tent walls, scoffed at by the braves, teased +by the unrebuked children, eating when the squaws threw waste food to +him, going hungry when his French companions failed to bring in game. +Sometimes night overtook him on the trail. Shovelling a bed through +the snow to the moss with his snow-shoes, piling shrubs as a +wind-break, and kindling a roaring fire, the priest passed the night +under the stars. + +When spring came, the Indians opposed his passage down the river. A +council was called. Albanel explained that his message was to bring +the Indians down to Quebec and keep them from going to the English for +trade. The Indians, who had acted as middlemen between Quebec traders +and the Northern tribes, saw the advantage of undermining the English +trade. Gifts were presented by the Frenchmen, and the friendship of +the Indians was secured. On June 1, 1672, sixteen savages embarked +with the three Frenchmen. For the next ten days, the difficulties were +almost insurmountable. The river tore through a deep gorge of sheer +precipices which the _voyageurs_ could pass only by clinging to the +rock walls with hands and feet. One _portage_ was twelve miles long +over a muskeg of quaking moss that floated on water. At every step the +travellers plunged through to their waists. Over this the long canoes +and baggage had to be carried. On the 10th of June they reached the +height of land that divides the waters of Hudson Bay from the St. +Lawrence. The watershed was a small plateau with two lakes, one of +which emptied north, the other, south. As they approached Lake +Mistassini, the Lake Indians again opposed their free passage down the +rivers. + +"You must wait," they said, "till we notify the elders of your coming." +Shortly afterwards, the French met a score of canoes with the Indians +all painted for war. The idea of turning back never occurred to the +priest. By way of demonstrating his joy at meeting the warriors, he +had ten volleys of musketry fired off, which converted the war into a +council of peace. At the assemblage, Albanel distributed gifts to the +savages. + +"Stop trading with the English at the sea," he cried; "they do not pray +to God; come to Lake St. John with your furs; there you will always +find a _robe noire_ to instruct you and baptize you." + +The treaty was celebrated by a festival and a dance. In the morning, +after solemn religious services, the French embarked. On the 18th of +June they came to Lake Mistassini, an enormous body of water similar to +the Great Lakes.[13] From Mistassini, the course was down-stream and +easier. High water enabled them to run many of the rapids; and on the +28th of June, after a voyage of eight hundred leagues, four hundred +rapids, and two hundred waterfalls, they came to the deserted houses of +the English. The very next day they found the Indians and held +religious services, making solemn treaty, presenting presents, and +hoisting the French flag. For the first three weeks of July they +coasted along the shores of James Bay, taking possession of the country +in the name of the French king. Then they cruised back to King Charles +Fort on Rupert's River.[14] They were just in time to meet the +returned Englishmen. + +Governor Bayly of the Hudson's Bay Company was astounded to find the +French at Rupert's River. Now he knew what had allured the Indians +from the bay, but he hardly relished finding foreigners in possession +of his own fort. The situation required delicate tact. Governor Bayly +was a bluff tradesman with an insular dislike of Frenchmen and +Catholics common in England at a time when bigoted fanaticism ran riot. +King Charles was on friendly terms with France. Therefore, the +Jesuit's passport must be respected; so Albanel was received with at +least a show of courtesy. But Bayly was the governor of a fur company; +and the rights of the company must be respected. To make matters +worse, the French voyageurs brought letters to Groseillers and Radisson +from their relatives in Quebec. Bayly, no doubt, wished the Jesuit +guest far enough. Albanel left in a few weeks. Then Bayly's +suspicions blazed out in open accusations that the two French explorers +had been playing a double game and acting against English interests. +In September came the company ship to the fort with Captain Gillam, who +had never agreed with Radisson from the time that they had quarrelled +about going from Port Royal to the straits of Hudson Bay. It has been +said that, at this stage, Radisson and Groseillers, feeling the +prejudice too strong against them, deserted and passed overland through +the forests to Quebec. The records of the Hudson's Bay Company do not +corroborate this report. Bayly in the heat of his wrath sent home +accusations with the returning ship. The ship that came out in 1674 +requested Radisson to go to England and report. This he did, and so +completely refuted the charges of disloyalty that in 1675 the company +voted him 100 pounds a year; but Radisson would not sit quietly in +England on a pension. Owing to hostility toward him among the English +employees of the company, he could not go back to the bay. Meantime he +had wife and family and servants to maintain on 100 pounds a year. If +England had no more need of him, France realized the fact that she had. +Debts were accumulating. Restless as a caged tiger, Radisson found +himself baffled until a message came from the great Colbert of France, +offering to pay all his debts and give him a position in the French +navy. His pardon was signed and proclaimed. In 1676, France granted +him fishing privileges on the island of Anticosti; but the lodestar of +the fur trade still drew him, for that year he was called to Quebec to +meet a company of traders conferring on the price of beaver.[15] In +that meeting assembled, among others, Jolliet, La Salle, Groseillers, +and Radisson--men whose names were to become immortal. + +It was plain that the two adventurers could not long rest.[16] + + +[1] Chailly-Bert. + +[2] The Jesuit expeditions of Dablon and Dreuillettes in 1661 had +failed to reach the bay overland. Cabot had coasted Labrador in 1497; +Captain Davis had gone north of Hudson Bay in 1585-1587; Hudson had +lost his life there in 1610. Sir Thomas Button had explored Baffin's +Land, Nelson River, and the Button Islands in 1612; Munck, the Dane, +had found the mouth of the Churchill River in 1619, James and Fox had +explored the inland sea in 1631; Shapley had brought a ship up from +Boston in 1640; and Bourdon, the Frenchman, had gone up to the straits +in 1656-1657. + +[3] George Carr, writing to Lord Arlington on December 14, 1665, says: +"Hearing some Frenchmen discourse in New England . . . of a great trade +of beaver, and afterward making proof of what they had said, he thought +them the best present he could possibly make his Majesty and persuaded +them to come to England." + +[4] Colonel Richard Nicolls, writing on July 31, 1665, says he +"supposes Col. Geo. Cartwright is now at sea." + +[5] It plainly could not have been written while _en route_ across the +Atlantic with Sir George Cartwright, for it records events after that +time. + +[6] Robson's _Hudson Bay_. + +[7] See Dr. N. E. Dionne, also Marie de l'Incarnation, but Sulte +discredits this granting of a title. + +[8] See Robson's _Hudson Bay_, containing reference to the journal kept +by Gorst, Bayly's secretary, at Rupert Fort. + +[9] See State Papers, Canadian Archives, 1676, January 26, Whitehall: +Memorial of the Hudson Bay Company complaining of Albanel, a Jesuit, +attempting to seduce Radisson and Groseillers from the company's +services; in absence of ships pulling down the British ensign and +tampering with the Indians. + +[10] I am inclined to think that Albanel may not have been aware of the +documents which he carried from Quebec to the traders being practically +an offer to bribe Radisson and Groseillers to desert England. Some +accounts say that Albanel was accompanied by Groseillers' son, but I +find no authority for this. On the other hand, Albanel does not +mention the Englishmen being present. Just as Radisson and +Groseillers, ten years before, had taken possession of the old house +battered with bullets, so Albanel took possession of the deserted huts. +Here is what his account says (Cramoisy edition of the _Relations_): +"Le 28 June a peine avions nous avance un quart de lieue, que nous +rencontrasmes a main gauche dans un petit ruisseau un heu avec ses +agrez de dix ou dou tonneaux, qui portoit le Pavilion Anglois et la +voile latine; dela a la portee du fusil, nous entrasmes dans deux +maisons desertes . . . nous rencontrasmes deux ou trois cabanes et un +chien abandonne. . . ." His tampering with the Indians was simply the +presentation of gifts to attract them to Quebec. + +[11] See State Papers, Canadian Archives: M. Frontenac, the commander +of French (?) king's troops at Hudson Bay, introduces and recommends +Father Albanel. + +[12] State Papers, Canadian Archives. + +[13] For some years there were sensational reports that Mistassini was +larger than Lake Superior. Mr. Low, of the Canadian Geological Survey, +in a very exhaustive report, shows this is not so. Still, the lake +ranks with the large lakes of America. Mr. Low gives its dimensions as +one hundred miles long and twelve miles wide. + +[14] There is a discrepancy in dates here which I leave savants to +worry out. _Albanel's Relation_ (Cramoisy) is of 1672. Thomas Gorst, +secretary to Governor Bayly, says that the quarrel took place in 1674. +Oldmixon, who wrote from hearsay, says in 1673. Robson, who had access +to Hudson's Bay records, says 1676; and I am inclined to think they all +agree. In a word, Radisson and Groseillers were on bad terms with the +local Hudson's Bay Company governor from the first, and the open +quarrel took place only in 1675. Considering the bigotry of the times, +the quarrel was only natural. Bayly was governor, but he could not +take precedence over Radisson and Groseillers. He was Protestant and +English. They were Catholics and French. Besides, they were really at +the English governor's mercy; for they could not go back to Canada +until publicly pardoned by the French king. + +[15] State Papers, Canadian Archives, October 20, 1676, Quebec: Report +of proceedings regarding the price of beaver . . . by an ordinance, +October 19, 1676, M. Jacques Duchesneau, Intendant, had called a +meeting of the leading fur traders to consult about fixing the price of +beaver. There were present, among others, Robert, Cavelier de la +Salle, . . . Charles le Moyne, . . . two Godefroys of Three +Rivers, . . . Groseillers, . . . Jolliet, . . . Pierre Radisson. + +[16] Mr. Low's geological report on Labrador contains interesting +particulars of the route followed by Father Albanel. He speaks of the +gorge and swamps and difficult _portages_ in precisely the same way as +the priest, though Albanel must have encountered the worst possible +difficulties on the route, for he went down so early in the spring. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +1682-1684 + +RADISSON GIVES UP A CAREER IN THE NAVY FOR THE FUR TRADE + +Though opposed by the Monopolists of Quebec, he secures Ships for a +Voyage to Hudson Bay--Here he encounters a Pirate Ship from Boston and +an English Ship of the Hudson's Bay Company--How he plays his Cards to +win against Both Rivals + + +A clever man may be a dangerous rival. Both France and England +recognized this in Radisson. The Hudson's Bay Company distrusted him +because he was a foreigner. The fur traders of Quebec were jealous. +The Hudson's Bay Company had offered him a pension of 100 pounds a year +to do nothing. France had pardoned his secession to England, paid his +debts, and given him a position in the navy, and when the fleet was +wrecked returning from the campaign against Dutch possessions in the +West Indies, the French king advanced money for Radisson to refit +himself; but France distrusted the explorer because he had an English +wife. All that France and England wanted Radisson to do was to keep +quiet. What the haughty spirit of Radisson would _not_ do for all the +fortunes which two nations could offer to bribe him--was to keep quiet. +He cared more for the game than the winnings; and the game of sitting +still and drawing a pension for doing nothing was altogether too tame +for Radisson. Groseillers gave up the struggle and retired for the +time to his family at Three Rivers. At Quebec, in 1676, Radisson heard +of others everywhere reaping where he had sown. Jolliet and La Salle +were preparing to push the fur trade of New France westward of the +Great Lakes, where Radisson had penetrated twenty years previously. +Fur traders of Quebec, who organized under the name of the Company of +the North, yearly sent their canoes up the Ottawa, St. Maurice, and +Saguenay to the forests south of Hudson Bay, which Radisson had +traversed. On the bay itself the English company were entrenched. +North, northwest, and west, Radisson had been the explorer; but the +reward of his labor had been snatched by other hands. + +[Illustration: "Skin for Skin," Coat of Arms and Motto, Hudson's Bay +Company.] + +Radisson must have served meritoriously on the fleet, for after the +wreck he was offered the command of a man-of-war; but he asked for a +commission to New France. From this request there arose complications. +His wife's family, the Kirkes, had held claims against New France from +the days when the Kirkes of Boston had captured Quebec. These claims +now amounted to 40,000 pounds. M. Colbert, the great French statesman, +hesitated to give a commission to a man allied by marriage with the +enemies of New France. Radisson at last learned why preferment had +been denied him. It was on account of his wife. Twice Radisson +journeyed to London for Mary Kirke. Those were times of an easy change +in faith. Charles II was playing double with Catholics and +Protestants. The Kirkes were closely attached to the court; and it +was, perhaps, not difficult for the Huguenot wife to abjure +Protestantism and declare herself a convert to the religion of her +husband. But when Radisson proposed taking her back to France, that +was another matter. Sir John Kirke forbade his daughter's departure +till the claims of the Kirke family against New France had been paid. +When Radisson returned without his wife, he was reproached by M. +Colbert for disloyalty. The government refused its patronage to his +plans for the fur trade; but M. Colbert sent him to confer with La +Chesnaye, a prominent fur trader and member of the Council in New +France, who happened to be in Paris at that time. La Chesnaye had been +sent out to Canada to look after the affairs of a Rouen fur-trading +company. Soon he became a commissioner of the West Indies Company; and +when the merchants of Quebec organized the Company of the North, La +Chesnaye became a director. No one knew better than he how bitterly +the monopolists of Quebec would oppose Radisson's plans for a trip to +Hudson Bay; but the prospects were alluring. La Chesnaye was deeply +involved in the fur trade and snatched at the chance of profits to +stave off the bankruptcy that reduced him to beggary a few years later. +In defiance of the rival companies and independent of those with which +he was connected, he offered to furnish ships and share profits with +Radisson and Groseillers for a voyage to Hudson Bay. + +M. Colbert did not give his patronage to the scheme; but he wished +Radisson a God-speed. The Jesuits advanced Radisson money to pay his +passage; and in the fall of 1681, he arrived in Quebec. La Chesnaye +met him, and Groseillers was summoned. The three then went to the +Chateau Saint-Louis to lay their plans before the governor. Though the +privileges of the West Indies Company had been curtailed, the fur trade +was again regulated by license.[1] Frontenac had granted a license to +the Company of the North for the fur trade of Hudson Bay. He could not +openly favor Radisson; but he winked at the expedition by granting +passports to the explorers, and the three men who were to accompany +him, Jean Baptiste, son of Groseillers, Pierre Allemand, the pilot who +was afterward given a commission to explore the Eskimo country, and +Jean Godefroy, an interpreter.[2] Jean Baptiste, Radisson's nephew, +invested 500 pounds in goods for barter. Others of Three Rivers and +Quebec advanced money, to provision the ship.[3] Ten days after +Radisson's arrival in Quebec, the explorers had left the high fortress +of the St. Lawrence to winter in Acadia. When spring came, they went +with the fishing fleets to Isle Percee, where La Chesnaye was to send +the ships. Radisson's ship, the _St. Pierre_,--named after +himself,--came first, a rickety sloop of fifty tons with a crew of +twelve mutinous, ill-fed men, a cargo of goods for barter, and scant +enough supply of provisions. Groseillers' ship, the _St. Anne_, was +smaller and better built, with a crew of fifteen. The explorers set +sail on the 11th of July. From the first there was trouble with the +crews. Fresh-water _voyageurs_ make bad ocean sailors. Food was +short. The voyage was to be long. It was to unknown waters, famous +for disaster. The sea was boisterous. In the months of June and July, +the North Atlantic is beset with fog and iceberg. The ice sweeps south +in mountainous bergs that have thawed and split before they reach the +temperate zones.[4] On the 30th of July the two ships passed the +Straits of Belle Isle. Fog-banks hung heavy on the blue of the far +watery horizon. Out of the fog, like ghosts in gloom, drifted the +shadowy ice-floes. The coast of Labrador consists of bare, domed, +lonely hills alternated with rock walls rising sheer from the sea as +some giant masonry. Here the rock is buttressed by a sharp angle +knife-edged in a precipice. There, the beetling walls are guarded by +long reefs like the teeth of a saw. Over these reefs, the drifting +tide breaks with multitudinous voices. The French _voyageurs_ had +never known such seafaring. In the wail of the white-foamed reefs, +their superstition heard the shriek of the demons. The explorers had +anchored in one of the sheltered harbors, which the sailors call +"holes-in-the-wall." The crews mutinied. They would go no farther +through ice-drift and fog to an unknown sea. Radisson never waited for +the contagion of fear to work. He ordered anchors up and headed for +open sea. Then he tried to encourage the sailors with promises. They +would not hear him; for the ship's galley was nearly empty of food. +Then Radisson threatened the first mutineer to show rebellion with such +severe punishment as the hard customs of the age permitted. The crew +sulked, biding its time. At that moment the lookout shouted "Sail ho!" + +All hands discerned a ship with a strange sail, such as Dutch and +Spanish pirates carried, bearing down upon them shoreward. The lesser +fear was forgotten in the greater. The _St. Pierre's_ crew crowded +sail. Heading about, the two explorers' ships threaded the rock reefs +like pursued deer. The pirate came on full speed before the wind. +Night fell while Radisson was still hiding among the rocks. +Notwithstanding reefs and high seas, while the pirate ship hove to for +the night, Radisson stole out in the dark and gave his pursuer the +slip. The chase had saved him a mutiny. + +As the vessels drove northward, the ice drifted past like a white world +afloat. When Radisson approached the entrance to Hudson Bay, he met +floes in impenetrable masses. So far the ships had avoided delay by +tacking along the edges of the ice-fields, from lake to lake of ocean +surrounded by ice. Now the ice began to crush together, driven by wind +and tide with furious enough force to snap the two ships like +egg-shells. Radisson watched for a free passage, and, with a wind to +rear, scudded for shelter of a hole-in-the-wall. Here he met the +Eskimo, and provisions were replenished; but the dangers of the +ice-fields had frightened the crews again. In two days Radisson put to +sea to avoid a second mutiny. The wind was landward, driving the ice +back from the straits, and they passed safely into Hudson Bay. The ice +again surrounded them; but it was useless for the men to mutiny. Ice +blocked up all retreat. Jammed among the floes, Groseillers was afraid +to carry sail, and fell behind. Radisson drove ahead, now skirting the +ice-floes, now pounded by breaking icebergs, now crashing into surface +brash or puddled ice to the fore. "We were like to have perished," he +writes, "but God was pleased to preserve us." + +On the 26th of August, six weeks after sailing from Isle Percee, +Radisson rode triumphantly in on the tide to Hayes River, south of +Nelson River, where he had been with the English ships ten years +before. Two weeks later the _Ste. Anne_, with Groseillers, arrived. +The two ships cautiously ascended the river, seeking a harbor. Fifteen +miles from salt water, Radisson anchored. At last he was back in his +native element, the wilderness, where man must set himself to conquer +and take dominion over earth. + +Groseillers was always the trader, Radisson the explorer. Leaving his +brother-in-law to build the fort, Radisson launched a canoe on Hayes +River to explore inland. Young Jean Groseillers accompanied him to +look after the trade with the Indians.[5] For eight days they paddled +up a river that was destined to be the path of countless traders and +pioneers for two centuries, and that may yet be destined to become the +path of a northern commerce. By September the floodtide of Hayes River +had subsided. In a week the _voyageurs_ had travelled probably three +hundred miles, and were within the region of Lake Winnipeg, where the +Cree hunters assemble in October for the winter. Radisson had come to +this region by way of Lake Superior with the Cree hunters twenty years +before, and his visit had become a tradition among the tribes. Beaver +are busy in October gnawing down young saplings for winter food. +Radisson observed chips floating past the canoe. Where there are +beaver, there should be Indians; so the _voyageurs_ paddled on. One +night, as they lay round the camp-fire, with canoes overturned, a deer, +startled from its evening drinking-place, bounded from the thicket. A +sharp whistle--and an Indian ran from the brush of an island opposite +the camp, signalling the white men to head the deer back; but when +Radisson called from the waterside, the savage took fright and dashed +for the woods. + +All that night the _voyageurs_ kept sleepless guard. In the morning +they moved to the island and kindled a signal-fire to call the Indians. +In a little while canoes cautiously skirted the island, and the chief +of the band stood up, bow and arrow in hand. Pointing his arrows to +the deities of north, south, east, and west, he broke the shaft to +splinters, as a signal of peace, and chanted his welcome:-- + + "Ho, young men, be not afraid! + The sun is favorable to us! + Our enemies shall fear us! + This is the man we have wished + Since the days of our fathers!" + + +With a leap, the chief sprang into the water and swam ashore, followed +by all the canoes. Radisson called out to know who was commander. The +chief, with a sign as old and universal as humanity, bowed his head in +servility. Radisson took the Indian by the hand, and, seating him by +the fire, chanted an answer in Cree:-- + + "I know all the earth! + Your friends shall be my friends! + I come to bring you arms to destroy your enemies! + Nor wife nor child shall die of hunger! + For I have brought you merchandise! + Be of good cheer! + I will be thy son! + I have brought thee a father! + He is yonder below building a fort + Where I have two great ships!" [6] + + +The chief kept pace with the profuse compliments by vowing the life of +his tribe in service of the white man. Radisson presented pipes and +tobacco to the Indians. For the chief he reserved a fowling-piece with +powder and shot. White man and Indian then exchanged blankets. +Presents were sent for the absent wives. The savages were so grateful +that they cast all their furs at Radisson's feet, and promised to bring +their hunt to the fort in spring. In Paris and London Radisson had +been harassed by jealousy. In the wilderness he was master of +circumstance; but a surprise awaited him at Groseillers' fort. + +The French habitation--called Fort Bourbon--had been built on the north +shore of Hayes or Ste. Therese River. Directly north, overland, was +another broad river with a gulflike entrance. This was the Nelson. +Between the two rivers ran a narrow neck of swampy, bush-grown land. +The day that Radisson returned to the newly erected fort, there rolled +across the marshes the ominous echo of cannon-firing. Who could the +newcomers be? A week's sail south at the head of the bay were the +English establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company. The season was far +advanced. Had English ships come to winter on Nelson River? Ordering +Jean Groseillers to go back inland to the Indians, Radisson launched +down Hayes River in search of the strange ship. He went to the salt +water, but saw nothing. Upon returning, he found that Jean Groseillers +had come back to the fort with news of more cannonading farther inland. +Radisson rightly guessed that the ship had sailed up Nelson River, +firing cannon as she went to notify Indians for trade. Picking out +three intrepid men, Radisson crossed the marsh by a creek which the +Indian canoes used, to go to Nelson River.[7] Through the brush the +scout spied a white tent on an island. All night the Frenchmen lay in +the woods, watching their rivals and hoping that some workman might +pass close enough to be seized and questioned. At noon, next day, +Radisson's patience was exhausted. He paddled round the island, and +showed himself a cannon-shot distant from the fort. Holding up a pole, +Radisson waved as if he were an Indian afraid to approach closer in +order to trade. The others hallooed a welcome and gabbled out Indian +words from a guide-book. Radisson paddled a length closer. The others +ran eagerly down to the water side away from their cannon. In signal +of friendship, they advanced unarmed. Radisson must have laughed to +see how well his ruse worked. + +"Who are you?" he demanded in plain English, "and what do you want?" +The traders called back that they were Englishmen come for beaver. +Again the crafty Frenchman must have laughed; for he knew very well +that all English ships except those of the Hudson's Bay Company were +prohibited by law from coming here to trade.[8] Though the strange +ship displayed an English ensign, the flag did not show the magical +letters "H. B. C." + +"Whose commission have you?" pursued Radisson. + +"No commission--New Englanders," answered the others. + +"Contrabands," thought Radisson to himself. Then he announced that he +had taken possession of all that country for France, had built a strong +fort, and expected more ships. In a word, he advised the New +Englanders to save themselves by instant flight; but his canoe had +glided nearer. To Radisson's surprise, he discovered that the leader +of the New England poachers was Ben Gillam of Boston, son of Captain +Gillam, the trusted servant of the Hudson's Bay Company, who had +opposed Radisson and Groseillers on Rupert's River. It looked as if +the contraband might be a venture of the father as well as the son.[9] +Radisson and young Gillam recognized each other with a show of +friendliness, Gillam inviting Radisson to inspect the ship with much +the same motive that the fabled spider invited the fly. Radisson took +tactful precaution for his own liberty by graciously asking that two of +the New England servants go down to the canoe with the three Frenchmen. +No sooner had Radisson gone on the New England ship than young Gillam +ordered cannon fired and English flags run up. Having made that brave +show of strength, the young man proposed that the French and the New +Englanders should divide the traffic between them for the winter. +Radisson diplomatically suggested that such an important proposal be +laid before his colleagues. In leaving, he advised Gillam to keep his +men from wandering beyond the island, lest they suffer wrong at the +hands of the French soldiers. Incidentally, that advice would also +keep the New Englanders from learning how desperately weak the French +really were. Neither leader was in the slightest deceived by the +other; each played for time to take the other unawares, and each knew +the game that was being played. + +[Illustration: Hudson's Bay Company Coins, made of Lead melted from Tea +Chests at York Factory, each Coin representing so many Beaver Skins.] + +Instead of returning by the creek that cut athwart the neck of land +between the two rivers, Radisson decided to go down Nelson River to the +bay, round the point, and ascend Hayes River to the French quarters. +Cogitating how to frighten young Gillam out of the country or else to +seize him, Radisson glided down the swift current of Nelson River +toward salt water. He had not gone nine miles from the New Englanders +when he was astounded by the spectacle of a ship breasting with +full-blown sails up the tide of the Nelson directly in front of the +French canoe. The French dashed for the hiding of the brushwood on +shore. From their concealment they saw that the ship was a Hudson's +Bay Company vessel, armed with cannon and commission for lawful trade. +If once the Hudson's Bay Company ship and the New Englanders united, +the English would be strong enough to overpower the French. + +The majority of leaders would have escaped the impending disaster by +taking ingloriously to their heels. Radisson, with that adroit +presence of mind which characterized his entire life, had provided for +his followers' safety by landing them on the south shore, where the +French could flee across the marsh to the ships if pursued. Then his +only thought was how to keep the rivals apart. Instantly he had an +enormous bonfire kindled. Then he posted his followers in ambush. The +ship mistook the fire for an Indian signal, reefed its sails, and +anchored. Usually natives paddled out to the traders' ships to barter. +These Indians kept in hiding. The ship waited for them to come; and +Radisson waited for the ship's hands to land. In the morning a gig +boat was lowered to row ashore. In it were Captain Gillam, Radisson's +personal enemy, John Bridgar,[10] the new governor of the Hudson's Bay +Company for Nelson River, and six sailors. All were heavily armed, yet +Radisson stood alone to receive them, with his three companions posted +on the outskirts of the woods as if in command of ambushed forces. +Fortune is said to favor the dauntless, and just as the boat came +within gunshot of the shore, it ran aground. A sailor jumped out to +drag the craft up the bank. They were all at Radisson's mercy--without +cover. He at once levelled his gun with a shout of "Halt!" At the +same moment his own men made as if to sally from the woods. The +English imagined themselves ambushed, and called out that they were the +officers of the Hudson's Bay Company. Radisson declared who he was and +that he had taken possession of the country for France. His musket was +still levelled. His men were ready to dash forward. The English put +their heads together and decided that discretion was the better part of +valor. Governor Bridgar meekly requested permission to land and salute +the commander of the French. Then followed a pompous melodrama of +bravado, each side affecting sham strength. Radisson told the English +all that he had told the New Englanders, going on board the Company's +ship to dine, while English hostages remained with his French +followers. For reasons which he did not reveal, he strongly advised +Governor Bridgar not to go farther up Nelson River. Above all, he +warned Captain Gillam not to permit the English sailors to wander +inland. Having exchanged compliments, Radisson took gracious leave of +his hosts, and with his three men slipped down the Nelson in their +canoe. Past a bend in the river, he ordered the canoe ashore. The +French then skirted back through the woods and lay watching the English +till satisfied that the Hudson's Bay Company ship would go no nearer +the island where Ben Gillam lay hidden. + +Groseillers and his son looked after the trade that winter. Radisson +had his hands full keeping the two English crews apart. Ten days after +his return, he again left Hayes River to see what his rivals were +doing. The Hudson's Bay Company ship had gone aground in the ooze a +mile from the fort where Governor Bridgar had taken up quarters. That +division of forces weakened the English fort. Introducing his man as +captain of a French ship, Radisson entered the governor's house. The +visitors drained a health to their host and fired off muskets to learn +whether sentinels were on guard. No attention was paid to the unwonted +noise. "I judged," writes Radisson, "that they were careless, and +might easily be surprised." He then went across to the river flats, +where the tide had left the vessel, and, calmly mounting the ladder, +took a survey of Gillam's ship. When the irate old captain rushed up +to know the meaning of the intrusion Radisson suavely proffered +provisions, of which they were plainly in need. + +The New Englanders had been more industrious. A stoutly palisaded fort +had been completed on young Gillam's island, and cannon commanded all +approach. Radisson fired a musket to notify the sentry, and took care +to beach his canoe below the range of the guns. Young Gillam showed a +less civil front than before. His lieutenant ironically congratulated +Radisson on his "safe" return, and invited him to visit the fort if he +would enter _alone_. When Radisson would have introduced his four +followers, the lieutenant swore "if the four French were forty devils, +they could not take the New Englanders' fort." The safety of the +French habitation now hung by a hair. Everything depended on keeping +the two English companies apart, and they were distant only nine miles. +The scheme must have flashed on Radisson in an intuition; for he laid +his plans as he listened to the boastings of the New Englanders. If +father and son could be brought together through Radisson's favor, +Captain Gillam would keep the English from coming to the New England +fort lest his son should be seized for poaching on the trade of the +Company; and Ben Gillam would keep his men from going near the English +fort lest Governor Bridgar should learn of the contraband ship from +Boston. Incidentally, both sides would be prevented from knowing the +weakness of the French at Fort Bourbon. At once Radisson told young +Gillam of his father's presence. Ben was eager to see his father and, +as he thought, secure himself from detection in illegal trade. +Radisson was to return to the old captain with the promised provisions. +He offered to take young Gillam, disguised as a bush-ranger. In +return, he demanded (1) that the New Englanders should not leave their +fort; (2) that they should not betray themselves by discharging cannon; +(3) that they shoot any Hudson's Bay Company people who tried to enter +the New England fort. To young Gillam these terms seemed designed for +his own protection. What they really accomplished was the complete +protection of the French from united attack. Father and son would have +put themselves in Radisson's power. A word of betrayal to Bridgar, the +Hudson's Bay governor, and both the Gillams would be arrested for +illegal trade. Ben Gillam's visit to his father was fraught with all +the danger that Radisson's daring could have desired. A seaman half +suspected the identity of the bush-ranger, and Governor Bridgar wanted +to know how Radisson had returned so soon when the French fort was far +away. "I told him, smiling," writes Radisson, "that I could fly when +there was need to serve my friends." + +Young Gillam had begun to suspect the weakness of the French. When the +two were safely out of the Hudson's Bay Company fort, he offered to go +home part of the way with Radisson. This was to learn where the French +fort lay. Radisson declined the kindly service and deliberately set +out from the New Englanders' island in the wrong direction, coming down +the Nelson past young Gillam's fort at night. The delay of the trick +nearly cost Radisson his life. Fall rains had set in, and the river +was running a mill-race. Great floes of ice from the North were +tossing on the bay at the mouth of the Nelson River in a maelstrom of +tide and wind. In the dark Radisson did not see how swiftly his canoe +had been carried down-stream. Before he knew it his boat shot out of +the river among the tossing ice-floes of the bay. Surrounded by ice in +a wild sea, he could not get back to land. The spray drove over the +canoe till the Frenchman's clothes were stiff with ice. For four hours +they lay jammed in the ice-drift till a sudden upheaval crushed the +canoe to kindling wood and left the men stranded on the ice. Running +from floe to floe, they gained the shore and beat their way for three +days through a raging hurricane of sleet and snow toward the French +habitation. They were on the side of the Hayes opposite the French +fort. Four _voyageurs_ crossed for them, and the little company at +last gained the shelter of a roof. + +Radisson now knew that young Gillam intended to spy upon the French; so +he sent scouts to watch the New Englanders' fort. The scouts reported +that the young captain had sent messengers to obtain additional men +from his father; but the New England soldiers, remembering Radisson's +orders to shoot any one approaching, had levelled muskets to fire at +the reenforcements. The rebuffed men had gone back to Governor Bridgar +with word of a fort and ship only nine miles up Nelson River. Bridgar +thought this was the French establishment, and old Captain Gillam could +not undeceive him. The Hudson's Bay Company governor had sent the two +men back to spy on what he thought was a French fort. At once Radisson +sent out men to capture Bridgar's scouts, who were found half dead with +cold and hunger. The captives reported to Radisson that the English +ship had been totally wrecked in the ice jam. Bridgar's people were +starving. Many traders would have left their rivals to perish. +Radisson supplied them with food for the winter. They were no longer +to be feared; but there was still danger from young Gillam. He had +wished to visit the French fort. Radisson decided to give him an +opportunity. Ben Gillam was escorted down to Hayes River. A month +passed quietly. The young captain had learned that the boasted forces +of the French consisted of less than thirty men. His insolence knew no +bounds. He struck a French servant, called Radisson a pirate, and +gathering up his belongings prepared to go home. Radisson quietly +barred the young man's way. + +"You pitiful dog!" said the Frenchman, coolly. "You poor young fool! +Why do you suppose you were brought to this fort? We brought you here +because it suited us! We keep you here as long as it suits us! We +take you back when it suits us!" + +Ben Gillam was dumfounded to find that he had been trapped, when he had +all the while thought that he was acting the part of a clever spy. He +broke out in a storm of abuse. Radisson remanded the foolish young man +to a French guard. At the mess-room table Radisson addressed his +prisoner:-- + +"Gillam, to-day I set out to capture your fort." + +At the table sat less than thirty men. Young Gillam gave one scornful +glance at the French faces and laughed. + +"If you had a hundred men instead of twenty," he jeered. + +"How many have you, Ben?" + +"Nine; and they'll kill you before you reach the palisades." + +Radisson was not talking of killing. + +"Gillam," he returned imperturbably, "pick out nine of my men, and I +have your fort within forty-eight hours." + +Gillam chose the company, and Radisson took one of the Hudson Bay +captives as a witness. The thing was done as easily as a piece of +farcical comedy. French hostages had been left among the New +Englanders as guarantee of Gillam's safety in Radisson's fort. These +hostages had been instructed to drop, as if by chance, blocks of wood +across the doors of the guard-room and powder house and barracks. Even +these precautions proved unnecessary. Two of Radisson's advance guard, +who were met by the lieutenant of the New England fort, reported that +"Gillam had remained behind." The lieutenant led the two Frenchmen +into the fort. These two kept the gates open for Radisson, who marched +in with his band, unopposed. The keys were delivered and Radisson was +in possession. At midnight the watch-dogs raised an alarm, and the +French sallied out to find that a New Englander had run to the Hudson's +Bay Company for aid, and Governor Bridgar's men were attacking the +ships. All of the assailants fled but four, whom Radisson caught +ransacking the ship's cabin. Radisson now had more captives than he +could guard, so he loaded the Hudson's Bay Company men with provisions +and sent them back to their own starving fort. + +Radisson left the New England fort in charge of his Frenchmen and +returned to the French quarters. Strange news was carried to him +there. Bridgar had forgotten all benefits, waited until Radisson's +back was turned, and, with one last desperate cast of the die to +retrieve all by capturing the New England fort and ship for the fur +company, had marched against young Gillam's island. The French threw +open the gates for the Hudson's Bay governor to enter. Then they +turned the key and told Governor Bridgar that he was a prisoner. Their +_coup_ was a complete triumph for Radisson. Both of his rivals were +prisoners, and the French flag flew undisputed over Port Nelson. + +Spring brought the Indians down to the bay with the winter's hunt. The +sight of threescore Englishmen captured by twenty Frenchmen roused the +war spirit of the young braves. They offered Radisson two hundred +beaver skins to be allowed to massacre the English. Radisson thanked +the savages for their good will, but declined their offer. Floods had +damaged the water-rotted timbers of the two old hulls in which the +explorers voyaged north. It was agreed to return to Quebec in Ben +Gillam's boat. A vessel was constructed on one of the hulls to send +the English prisoners to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south +end of the bay.[11] Young Jean Groseillers was left, with seven men, +to hold the French post till boats came in the following year. On the +27th of July the ships weighed anchor for the homeward voyage. Young +Gillam was given a free passage by way of Quebec. Bridgar was to have +gone with his men to the Hudson's Bay Company forts at the south of the +bay, but at the last moment a friendly Englishman warned Radisson that +the governor's design was to wait till the large ship had left, head +the bark back for Hayes River, capture the fort, and put the Frenchmen +to the sword. To prevent this Bridgar, too, was carried to Quebec. +Twenty miles out the ship was caught in ice-floes that held her for a +month, and Bridgar again conspired to cut the throats of the Frenchmen. +Henceforth young Gillam and Bridgar were out on parole during the day +and kept under lock at night. + +The same jealousy as of old awaited Radisson at Quebec. The Company of +the North was furious that La Chesnaye had sent ships to Hudson Bay, +which the shareholders considered to be their territory by license.[12] +Farmers of the Revenue beset the ship to seize the cargo, because the +explorers had gone North without a permit. La Chesnaye saved some of +the furs by transshipping them for France before the vessel reached +Quebec. Then followed an interminable lawsuit, that exhausted the +profits of the voyage. La Barre had succeeded Frontenac as governor. +The best friends of La Barre would scarcely deny that his sole ambition +as governor was to amass a fortune from the fur trade of Canada. +Inspired by the jealous Company of the North, he refused to grant +Radisson prize money for the capture of the contraband ship, restored +the vessel to Gillam, and gave him clearance to sail for Boston.[13] +For this La Barre was sharply reprimanded from France; but the +reprimand did not mend the broken fortunes of the two explorers, who +had given their lives for the extension of the French domain.[14] M. +Colbert summoned Radisson and Groseillers to return to France and give +an account of all they had done; but when they arrived in Paris, on +January 15, 1684, they learned that the great statesman had died. Lord +Preston, the English envoy, had lodged such complaints against them for +the defeat of the Englishmen in Hudson Bay, that France hesitated to +extend public recognition of their services. + + +[1] Within ten years so many different regulations were promulgated on +the fur trade that it is almost impossible to keep track of them. In +1673 orders came from Paris forbidding French settlers of New France +from wandering in the woods for longer than twenty-four hours. In 1672 +M. Frontenac forbade the selling of merchandise to _coureurs du bois_, +or the purchase of furs from them. In 1675 a decree of the Council of +State awarded to M. Jean Oudiette one-fourth of all beaver, with the +exclusive right of buying and selling in Canada. In 1676 Frontenac +withdrew from the _Cie Indes Occidentales_ all the rights it had over +Canada and other places. An ordinance of October 1, 1682, forbade all +trade except under license. An ordinance in 1684 ordered all fur +traders trading in Hudson Bay to pay one-fourth to Farmers of the +Revenue. + +[2] It is hard to tell who this Godefroy was. Of all the famous +Godefroys of Three Rivers (according to Abbe Tanguay) there was only +one, Jean Batiste, born 1658, who might have gone with Radisson; but I +hardly think so. The Godefroys descended from the French nobility and +themselves bore titles from the king, but in spite of this, were the +best canoemen of New France, as ready--according to Mr. Sulte--to +_faire la cuisine_ as to command a fort. Radisson's Godefroy evidently +went in the capacity of a servant, for his name is not mentioned in the +official list of promoters. On the other hand, parish records do not +give the date of Jean Batiste Godefroy's death; so that he may have +gone as a servant and died in the North. + +[3] State Papers, 1683, state that Dame Sorel, La Chesnaye, Chaujon, +Gitton, Foret, and others advanced money for the goods. + +[4] In 1898, when up the coast of Labrador, I was told by the +superintendent of a northern whaling station--a man who has received +royal decorations for his scientific research of ocean phenomena--that +he has frequently seen icebergs off Labrador that were nine miles long. + +[5] Jean was born in 1654 and was, therefore, twenty-eight. + +[6] I have written both addresses as the Indians would chant them. To +be sure, they will not scan according to the elephantine grace of the +pedant's iambics; but then, neither will the Indian songs scan, though +I know of nothing more subtly rhythmical. Rhythm is so much a part of +the Indian that it is in his walk, in the intonation of his words, in +the gesture of his hands. I think most Westerners will bear me out in +saying that it is the exquisitely musical intonation of words that +betrays Indian blood to the third and fourth generation. + +[7] See Robson's map. + +[8] State Papers: "The Governor of New England is ordered to seize all +vessels trading in Hudson Bay contrary to charter--" + +[9] _Radisson's Journal_, p. 277. + +[10] Robson gives the commission to this governor. + +[11] Later in Hudson Bay history, when another commander captured the +forts, the prisoners were sold into slavery. Radisson's treatment of +his rivals hardly substantiates all the accusations of rascality +trumped up against him. Just how many prisoners he took in this +_coup_, no two records agree. + +[12] Archives, September 24, 1683: Ordinance of M. de Meulles regarding +the claims of persons interested in the expedition to Hudson Bay, +organized by M. de la Chesnaye, Gitton, Bruneau, Mme. Sorel. . . . In +order to avoid difficulties with the Company of the North, they had +placed a vessel at Isle Percee to receive the furs brought back . . . +and convey them to Holland and Spain. . . . Joachims de Chalons, agent +of the Company of the North, sent a _bateau_ to Percee to defeat the +project. De la Chesnaye, summoned to appear before the intendant, +maintained that the company had no right to this trade, . . . that the +enterprise involved so many risks that he could not consent to divide +the profits, if he had any. The partners having been heard, M. de +Meulles orders that the boats from Hudson Bay be anchored at Quebec. + +[13] Archives, October 25, 1683: M. de la Barre grants Benjamin Gillam +of Boston clearance for the ship _Le Garcon_, now in port at Quebec, +although he had no license from his Britannic Majesty permitting him to +enter Hudson Bay. + +[14] Such foundationless accusations have been written against Radisson +by historians who ought to have known better, about these furs, that I +quote the final orders of the government on the subject: November 5, +1683, M. de la Barre forbids Chalons, agent of La Ferme du Canada, +confiscating the furs brought from Hudson Bay; November 8 M. de la +Chesnaye is to be paid for the furs seized. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +1684-1710 + +THE LAST VOYAGE OF RADISSON TO HUDSON BAY + +France refuses to restore the Confiscated Furs and Radisson tries to +redeem his Fortune--Reengaged by England, he captures back Fort Nelson, +but comes to Want in his Old Age--his Character + + +Radisson was now near his fiftieth year. He had spent his entire life +exploring the wilds. He had saved New France from bankruptcy with +cargoes of furs that in four years amounted to half a million of modern +money. In ten years he had brought half a million dollars worth of +furs to the English company.[1] Yet he was a poor man, threatened with +the sponging-house by clamorous creditors and in the power of +avaricious statesmen, who used him as a tool for their own schemes. La +Chesnaye had saved his furs; but the half of the cargo that was the +share of Radisson and Groseillers had been seized at Quebec.[2] On +arriving in France, Groseillers presented a memorial of their wrong to +the court.[3] Probably because England and France were allied by +treaty at that time, the petition for redress was ignored. Groseillers +was now an old man. He left the struggle to Radisson and retired to +spend his days in quietness.[4] Radisson did not cease to press his +claim for the return of confiscated furs. He had a wife and four +children to support; but, in spite of all his services to England and +France, he did not own a shilling's worth of property in the whole +world. From January to May he waited for the tardy justice of the +French court. When his suit became too urgent, he was told that he had +offended the Most Christian King by attacking the fur posts under the +protection of a friendly monarch, King Charles. The hollowness of that +excuse became apparent when the French government sanctioned the +fitting out of two vessels for Radisson to go to Hudson Bay in the +spring. Lord Preston, the English ambassador, was also playing a +double game. He never ceased to reproach the French for the +destruction of the fur posts on Hudson Bay. At the same time he +besieged Radisson with offers to return to the service of the Hudson's +Bay Company. + +Radisson was deadly tired of the farce. From first to last France had +treated him with the blackest injustice. If he had wished to be rich, +he could long ago have accumulated wealth by casting in his lot with +the dishonest rulers of Quebec. In England a strong clique, headed by +Bridgar, Gillam, and Bering opposed him; but King Charles and the Duke +of York, Prince Rupert, when he was alive, Sir William Young, Sir James +Hayes, and Sir John Kirke were in his favor. His heart yearned for his +wife and children. Just then letters came from England urging him to +return to the Hudson's Bay Company. Lord Preston plied the explorer +with fair promises. Under threat of punishment for molesting the +English of Hudson Bay, the French government tried to force him into a +contract to sail on a second voyage to the North on the same terms as +in 1682-1683--not to share the profits. England and France were both +playing double. Radisson smiled a grim smile and took his resolution. +Daily he conferred with the French Marine on details of the voyage. He +permitted the date of sailing to be set for April 24. Sailors were +enlisted, stores put on board, everything was in readiness. At the +last moment, Radisson asked leave of absence to say good-by to his +family. The request was granted. Without losing a moment, he sailed +for England, where he arrived on the 10th of May and was at once taken +in hand by Sir William Young and Sir James Hayes. He was honored as +his explorations entitled him to be. King Charles and the Duke of York +received him. Both royal brothers gave him gifts in token of +appreciation. He took the oath of fealty and cast in his lot with the +English for good. It was characteristic of the enthusiast that he was, +when Radisson did not sign a strictly business contract with the +Hudson's Bay Company. "I accepted their commission with the greatest +pleasure in the world," he writes; ". . . without any precautions on my +part for my own interests . . . since they had confidence in me, I +wished to be generous towards them . . . in the hope they would render +me all the justice due from gentlemen of honor and probity." + +But to the troubles of the future Radisson always paid small heed. +Glad to be off once more to the adventurous freedom of the wilds, he +set sail from England on May 17, 1684, in the _Happy Return_, +accompanied by two other vessels. No incident marked the voyage till +the ships had passed through the straits and were driven apart by the +ice-drift of the bay. About sixty miles out from Port Nelson, the +_Happy Return_ was held back by ice. Fearing trouble between young +Jean Groseillers' men and the English of the other ships, Radisson +embarked in a shallop with seven men in order to arrive at Hayes River +before the other boats came. Rowing with might and main for +forty-eight hours, they came to the site of the French fort. + +The fort had been removed. Jean Groseillers had his own troubles +during Radisson's absence. A few days after Radisson's departure in +July, 1683, cannon announced the arrival of the annual English ships on +Nelson River. Jean at once sent out scouts, who found a tribe of +Indians on the way home from trading with the ships that had fired the +cannon. The scouts brought the Indians back to the French fort. Young +Groseillers admitted the savages only one at a time; but the cunning +braves pretended to run back for things they had forgotten in the +French house. Suspecting nothing, Jean had permitted his own men to +leave the fort. On different pretexts, a dozen warriors had surrounded +the young trader. Suddenly the mask was thrown off. Springing up, +treacherous as a tiger cat, the chief of the band struck at Groseillers +with a dagger. Jean parried the blow, grabbed the redskin by his +collar of bears' claws strung on thongs, threw the assassin to the +ground almost strangling him, and with one foot on the villain's throat +and the sword point at his chest, demanded of the Indians what they +meant. The savages would have fled, but French soldiers who had heard +the noise dashed to Groseillers' aid. The Indians threw down their +weapons and confessed all: the Englishmen of the ship had promised the +band a barrel of powder to massacre the French. Jean took his foot +from the Indian's throat and kicked him out of the fort. The English +outnumbered the French; so Jean removed his fort farther from the bay, +among the Indians, where the English could not follow. To keep the +warriors about him, he offered to house and feed them for the winter. +This protected him from the attacks of the English. In the spring +Indians came to the French with pelts. Jean was short of firearms; so +he bribed the Indians to trade their peltries to the English for guns, +and to retrade the guns to him for other goods. It was a stroke worthy +of Radisson himself, and saved the little French fort. The English +must have suspected the young trader's straits, for they again paid +warriors to attack the French; but Jean had forestalled assault by +forming an alliance with the Assiniboines, who came down Hayes River +from Lake Winnipeg four hundred strong, and encamped a body-guard +around the fort. Affairs were at this stage when Radisson arrived with +news that he had transferred his services to the English. + +Young Groseillers was amazed.[5] Letters to his mother show that he +surrendered his charge with a very ill grace. "Do not forget," +Radisson urged him, "the injuries that France has inflicted on your +father." Young Groseillers' mother, Marguerite Hayet, was in want at +Three Rivers.[6] It was memory of her that now turned the scales with +the young man. He would turn over the furs to Radisson for the English +Company, if Radisson would take care of the far-away mother at Three +Rivers. The bargain was made, and the two embraced. The surrender of +the French furs to the English Company has been represented as +Radisson's crowning treachery. Under that odium the great discoverer's +name has rested for nearly three centuries; yet the accusation of theft +is without a grain of truth. Radisson and Groseillers were to obtain +half the proceeds of the voyage in 1682-1683. Neither the explorers +nor Jean Groseillers, who had privately invested 500 pounds in the +venture, ever received one sou. The furs at Port Nelson--or Fort +Bourbon--belonged to the Frenchmen, to do what they pleased with them. +The act of the enthusiast is often tainted with folly. That Radisson +turned over twenty thousand beaver pelts to the English, without the +slightest assurance that he would be given adequate return, was surely +folly; but it was not theft. + +The transfer of all possessions to the English was promptly made. +Radisson then arranged a peace treaty between the Indians and the +English. That peace treaty has endured between the Indians and the +Hudson's Bay Company to this day. A new fort was built, the furs +stored in the hold of the vessels, and the crews mustered for the +return voyage. Radisson had been given a solemn promise by the +Hudson's Bay Company that Jean Groseillers and his comrades should be +well treated and reengaged for the English at 100 pounds a year. Now +he learned that the English intended to ship all the French out of +Hudson Bay and to keep them out. The enthusiast had played his game +with more zeal than discretion. The English had what they wanted--furs +and fort. In return, Radisson had what had misled him like a +will-o'-the-wisp all his life--vague promises. In vain Radisson +protested that he had given his promise to the French before they +surrendered the fort. The English distrusted foreigners. The +Frenchmen had been mustered on the ships to receive last instructions. +They were told that they were to be taken to England. No chance was +given them to escape. Some of the French had gone inland with the +Indians. Of Jean's colony, these alone remained. When Radisson +realized the conspiracy, he advised his fellow-countrymen to make no +resistance; for he feared that some of the English bitter against him +might seize on the pretext of a scuffle to murder the French. His +advice proved wise. He had strong friends at the English court, and +atonement was made for the breach of faith to the French. + +The ships set sail on the 4th of September and arrived in England on +the 23d of October. Without waiting for the coach, Radisson hired a +horse and spurred to London in order to give his version first of the +quarrel on the bay. The Hudson's Bay Company was delighted with the +success of Radisson. He was taken before the directors, given a +present of a hundred guineas, and thanked for his services. He was +once more presented to the King and the Duke of York. The company +redeemed its promise to Radisson by employing the Frenchmen of the +surrendered fort and offering to engage young Groseillers at 100 pounds +a year.[7] + +[Illustration: Hudson Bay Dog Trains laden with Furs arriving at Lower +Fort Garry, Red River. (Courtesy of C. C. Chipman, Commissioner H. B. +Company.)] + +For five years the English kept faith with Radisson, and he made annual +voyages to the bay; but war broke out with France. New France entered +on a brilliant campaign against the English of Hudson Bay. The +company's profits fell. Radisson, the Frenchman, was distrusted. +France had set a price on his head, and one Martiniere went to Port +Nelson to seize him, but was unable to cope with the English. At no +time did Radisson's salary with the company exceed 100 pounds; and now, +when war stopped dividends on the small amount of stock which had been +given to him, he fell into poverty and debt. In 1692 Sir William Young +petitioned the company in his favor; but a man with a price on his head +for treason could plainly not return to France.[8] The French were in +possession of the bay. Radisson could do no harm to the English. +Therefore the company ignored him till he sued them and received +payment in full for arrears of salary and dividends on stock which he +was not permitted to sell; but 50 pounds a year would not support a man +who paid half that amount for rent, and had a wife, four children, and +servants to support. In 1700 Radisson applied for the position of +warehouse keeper for the company at London. Even this was denied. + +The dauntless pathfinder was growing old; and the old cannot fight and +lose and begin again as Radisson had done all his life. State Papers +of Paris contain records of a Radisson with Tonty at Detroit![9] Was +this his nephew, Francois Radisson's son, who took the name of the +explorer, or Radisson's own son, or the game old warrior himself, come +out to die on the frontier as he had lived? + +History is silent. Until the year 1710 Radisson drew his allowance of +50 pounds a year from the English Company, then the payments stopped. +Did the dauntless life stop too? Oblivion hides all record of his +death, as it obscured the brilliant achievements of his life. + + +There is no need to point out Radisson's faults. They are written on +his life without extenuation or excuse, so that all may read. There is +less need to eulogize his virtues. They declare themselves in every +act of his life. This, only, should be remembered. Like all +enthusiasts, Radisson could not have been a hero, if he had not been a +bit of a fool. If he had not had his faults, if he had not been as +impulsive, as daring, as reckless, as inconstant, as improvident of the +morrow, as a savage or a child, he would not have accomplished the +exploration of half a continent. Men who weigh consequences are not of +the stuff to win empires. Had Radisson haggled as to the means, he +would have missed or muddled the end. He went ahead; and when the way +did not open, he went round, or crawled over, or carved his way through. + +There was an old saying among retired hunters of Three Rivers that "one +learned more in the woods than was ever found in l' petee +cat-ee-cheesm." Radisson's training was of the woods, rather than the +cure's catechism; yet who that has been trained to the strictest code +may boast of as dauntless faults and noble virtues? He was not +faithful to any country, but he was faithful to his wife and children; +and he was "faithful to his highest hope,"--that of becoming a +discoverer,--which is more than common mortals are to their meanest +aspirations. When statesmen played him a double game, he paid them +back in their own coin with compound interest. Perhaps that is why +they hated him so heartily and blackened his memory. But amid all the +mad license of savage life, Radisson remained untainted. Other +explorers and statesmen, too, have left a trail of blood to perpetuate +their memory; Radisson never once spilled human blood needlessly, and +was beloved by the savages. + +Memorial tablets commemorate other discoverers. Radisson needs none. +The Great Northwest is his monument for all time. + + +[1] Radisson's petition to the Hudson's Bay Company gives these amounts. + +[2] See State Papers quoted in Chapter VI. I need scarcely add that +Radisson did not steal a march on his patrons by secretly shipping furs +to Europe. This is only another of the innumerable slanders against +Radisson which State Papers disprove. + +[3] It seems impossible that historians with the slightest regard for +truth should have branded this part of _Radisson's Relation_ as a +fabrication, too. Yet such is the case, and of writers whose books are +supposed to be reputable. Since parts of Radisson's life appeared in +the magazines, among many letters I received one from a well-known +historian which to put it mildly was furious at the acceptance of +_Radisson's Journal_ as authentic. In reply, I asked that historian +how many documents contemporaneous with Radisson's life he had +consulted before he branded so great an explorer as Radisson as a liar. +Needless to say, that question was not answered. In corroboration of +this part of Radisson's life, I have lying before me: (1) Chouart's +letters--see Appendix. (2) A letter of Frontenac recording Radisson's +first trip by boat for De la Chesnaye and the complications it would be +likely to cause. (3) A complete official account sent from Quebec to +France of Radisson's doings in the bay, which tallies in every respect +with _Radisson's Journal_. (4) Report of M. de Meulles to the Minister +on the whole affair with the English and New Englanders. (5) An +official report on the release of Gillam's boat at Quebec. (6) The +memorial presented by Groseillers to the French minister. (7) An +official statement of the first discovery of the bay overland. (8) A +complete statement (official) of the complications created by +Radisson's wife being English. (9) A statement through a third +party--presumably an official--by Radisson himself of these +complications dated 1683. (10) A letter from the king to the governor +at Quebec retailing the English complaints of Radisson at Nelson River. + +In the face of this, what is to be said of the historian who calls +Radisson's adventures "a fabrication"? Such misrepresentation betrays +about equal amounts of impudence and ignorance. + +[4] From Charlevoix to modern writers mention is made of the death of +these two explorers. Different names are given as the places where +they died. This is all pure supposition. Therefore I do not quote. +No records exist to prove where Radisson and Groseillers died. + +[5] See Appendix. + +[6] State Papers record payment of money to her because she was in want. + +[7] Dr. George Bryce, who is really the only scholar who has tried to +unravel the mystery of Radisson's last days, supplies new facts about +his dealings with the Company to 1710. + +[8] Marquis de Denonville ordered the arrest of Radisson wherever he +might be found. + +[9] Appendix; see State Papers. + + + + +PART II + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA: BEING AN + ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ROCKY + MOUNTAINS, THE MISSOURI UPLANDS, AND THE + VALLEY OF THE SASKATCHEWAN + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +1730-1750 + +THE SEARCH FOR THE WESTERN SEA[1] + +M. de la Verendrye continues the Exploration of the Great Northwest by +establishing a Chain of Fur Posts across the Continent--Privations of +the Explorers and the Massacre of Twenty Followers--His Sons visit the +Mandans and discover the Rockies--The Valley of the Saskatchewan is +next explored, but Jealousy thwarts the Explorer, and he dies in Poverty + + +I + +1731-1736 + +A curious paradox is that the men who have done the most for North +America did not intend to do so. They set out on the far quest of a +crack-brained idealist's dream. They pulled up at a foreshortened +purpose; but the unaccomplished aim did more for humanity than the +idealist's dream. + +Columbus set out to find Asia. He discovered America. Jacques Cartier +sought a mythical passage to the Orient. He found a northern empire. +La Salle thought to reach China. He succeeded only in exploring the +valley of the Mississippi, but the new continent so explored has done +more for humanity than Asia from time immemorial. Of all crack-brained +dreams that led to far-reaching results, none was wilder than the +search for the Western Sea. Marquette, Jolliet, and La Salle had +followed the trail that Radisson had blazed and explored the valley of +the Mississippi; but like a will-o'-the-wisp beckoning ever westward +was that undiscovered myth, the Western Sea, thought to lie like a +narrow strait between America and Japan. + +The search began in earnest one sweltering afternoon on June 8, 1731, +at the little stockaded fort on the banks of the St. Lawrence, where +Montreal stands to-day. Fifty grizzled adventurers--wood runners, +voyageurs, Indian interpreters--bareheaded, except for the colored +handkerchief binding back the lank hair, dressed in fringed buckskin, +and chattering with the exuberant nonchalance of boys out of school, +had finished gumming the splits of their ninety-foot birch canoes, and +now stood in line awaiting the coming of their captain, Sieur Pierre +Gaultier de Varennes de la Verendrye. The French soldier with his +three sons, aged respectively eighteen, seventeen, and sixteen, now +essayed to discover the fabled Western Sea, whose narrow waters were +supposed to be between the valley of the "Great Forked River" and the +Empire of China. + +[Illustration: Indians and Hunters spurring to the Fight.] + +Certainly, if it were worth while for Peter the Great of Russia to send +Vitus Bering coasting the bleak headlands of ice-blocked, misty shores +to find the Western Sea, it would--as one of the French governors +reported--"be nobler than open war" for the little colony of New France +to discover this "sea of the setting sun." The quest was invested with +all the rainbow tints of "_la gloire_"; but the rainbow hopes were +founded on the practical basis of profits. Leading merchants of +Montreal had advanced goods for trade with the Indians on the way to +the Western Sea. Their expectations of profits were probably the same +as the man's who buys a mining share for ten cents and looks for +dividends of several thousand per cent. And the fur trade at that time +was capable of yielding such profits. Traders had gone West with less +than $2000 worth of goods in modern money, and returned three years +later with a sheer profit of a quarter of a million. Hope of such +returns added zest to De la Verendrye's venture for the discovery of +the Western Sea. + +Goods done up in packets of a hundred pounds lay at the feet of the +_voyageurs_ awaiting De la Verendrye's command. A dozen soldiers in +the plumed hats, slashed buskins, the brightly colored doublets of the +period, joined the motley company. Priests came out to bless the +departing _voyageurs_. Chapel bells rang out their God-speed. To the +booming of cannon, and at a word from De la Verendrye, the gates +opened. Falling in line with measured tread, the soldiers marched out +from Mount Royal. Behind, in the ambling gait of the moccasined +woodsman, came the _voyageurs_ and _coureurs_ and interpreters, +pack-straps across their foreheads, packets on the bent backs, the long +birch canoes hoisted to the shoulders of four men, two abreast at each +end, heads hidden in the inverted keel. + +The path led between the white fret of Lachine Rapids and the dense +forests that shrouded the base of Mount Royal. Checkerboard squares of +farm patches had been cleared in the woods. La Salle's old +thatch-roofed seigniory lay not far back from the water. St. Anne's +was the launching place for fleets of canoes that were to ascend the +Ottawa. Here, a last look was taken of splits and seams in the birch +keels. With invocations of St. Anne in one breath, and invocations of +a personage not mentioned in the cure's "petee cat-ee-cheesm" in the +next breath, and imprecations that their "souls might be smashed on the +end of a picket fence,"--the _voyageur's_ common oath even to this +day,--the boatmen stored goods fore, aft, and athwart till each long +canoe sank to the gunwale as it was gently pushed out on the water. A +last sign of the cross, and the lithe figures leap light as a mountain +cat to their place in the canoes. There are four benches of paddlers, +two abreast, with bowman and steersman, to each canoe. One can guess +that the explorer and his sons and his nephew, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, +who was to be second in command, all unhatted as they heard the long +last farewell of the bells. Every eye is fastened on the chief +bowman's steel-shod pole, held high--there is silence but for the +bells--the bowman's pole is lowered--as with one stroke out sweep the +paddles in a poetry of motion. The chimes die away over the water, the +chapel spire gleams--it, too, is gone. Some one strikes up a plaintive +ditty,--the _voyageur's_ song of the lost lady and the faded roses, or +the dying farewell of Cadieux, the hunter, to his comrades,--and the +adventurers are launched for the Western Sea. + +[Illustration: Fight at the Foot-hills of the Rockies between Crows and +Snakes.] + + +II + +1731-1736 + +Every mile westward was consecrated by heroism. There was the place +where Cadieux, the white hunter, went ashore single-handed to hold the +Iroquois at bay, while his comrades escaped by running the rapids; but +Cadieux was assailed by a subtler foe than the Iroquois, _la folie des +bois_,--the folly of the woods,--that sends the hunter wandering in +endless circles till he dies from hunger; and when his companions +returned, Cadieux lay in eternal sleep with a death chant scribbled on +bark across his breast. There were the Rapids of the Long Sault where +Dollard and seventeen Frenchmen fought seven hundred Iroquois till +every white man fell. Not one of all De la Verendrye's fifty followers +but knew that perils as great awaited him. + +Streaked foam told the voyageurs where they were approaching rapids. +Alert as a hawk, the bowman stroked for the shore; and his stroke was +answered by all paddles. If the water were high enough to carry the +canoes above rocks, and the rapids were not too violent, several of the +boatmen leaped out to knees in water, and "tracked" the canoes up +stream; but this was unusual with loaded craft. The bowman steadied +the beached keel. Each man landed with pack on his back, lighted his +pipe, and trotted away over portages so dank and slippery that only a +moccasined foot could gain hold. On long portages, camp-fires were +kindled and the kettles slung on the crotched sticks for the evening +meal. At night, the voyageurs slept under the overturned canoes, or +lay on the sand with bare faces to the sky. Morning mist had not risen +till all the boats were once more breasting the flood of the Ottawa. +For a month the canoe prows met the current when a portage lifted the +fleet out of the Ottawa into a shallow stream flowing toward Lake +Nipissing, and from Lake Nipissing to Lake Huron. The change was a +welcome relief. The canoes now rode with the current; and when a wind +sprang up astern, blanket sails were hoisted that let the boatmen lie +back, paddles athwart. Going with the stream, the _voyageurs_ would +"run"--"_sauter les rapides_"--the safest of the cataracts. Bowman, +not steersman, was the pilot of such "runs." A faint, far swish as of +night wind, little forward leaps and swirls of the current, the blur of +trees on either bank, were signs to the bowman. He rose in his +place. A thrust of the steel-shod pole at a rock in mid-stream--the +rock raced past; a throb of the keel to the live waters below--the +bowman crouches back, lightening the prow just as a rider "lifts" his +horse to the leap; a sudden splash--the thing has happened--the canoe +has run the rapids or shot the falls. + +[Illustration: "Each man landed with pack on his back, and trotted +away over portages."] + +Pause was made at Lake Huron for favorable weather; and a rear wind +would carry the canoes at a bouncing pace clear across to +Michilimackinac, at the mouth of Lake Michigan. This was the chief fur +post of the lakes at that time. All the boats bound east or west, +Sioux and Cree and Iroquois and Fox, traders' and priests' and +outlaws'--stopped at Michilimackinac. Vice and brandy and religion +were the characteristics of the fort. + +[Illustration: A Cree Indian of the Minnesota Borderlands.] + +This was familiar ground to De la Verendrye. It was at the lonely fur +post of Nepigon, north of Michilimackinac, in the midst of a wilderness +forest, that he had eaten his heart out with baffled ambition from 1728 +to 1730, when he descended to Montreal to lay before M. de Beauharnois, +the governor, plans for the discovery of the Western Sea. Born at +Three Rivers in 1686, where the passion for discovery and Radisson's +fame were in the very air and traders from the wilderness of the Upper +Country wintered, young Pierre Gaultier de Varennes de la Verendrye, at +the ambitious age of fourteen, determined that he would become a +discoverer.[2] At eighteen he was fighting in New England, at nineteen +in Newfoundland, at twenty-three in Europe at the battle of Malplaquet, +where he was carried off the field with nine wounds. Eager for more +distinguished service, he returned to Canada in his twenty-seventh +year, only to find himself relegated to an obscure trading post in far +Northern wilds. Then the boyhood ambitions reawakened. All France and +Canada, too, were ringing with projects for the discovery of the +Western Sea. Russia was acting. France knew it. The great priest +Charlevoix had been sent to Canada to investigate plans for the +venture, and had recommended an advance westward through the country of +the Sioux; but the Sioux[3] swarmed round the little fort at Lake Pepin +on the Mississippi like angry wasps. That way, exploration was plainly +barred. Nothing came of the attempt except a brisk fur trade and a +brisker warfare on the part of the Sioux. At the lonely post of +Nepigon, vague Indian tales came to De la Verendrye of "a great river +flowing west" and "a vast, flat country devoid of timber" with "large +herds of cattle." Ochagach, an old Indian, drew maps on birch bark +showing rivers that emptied into the Western Sea. De la Verendrye's +smouldering ambitions kindled. He hurried to Michilimackinac. There +the traders and Indians told the same story. Glory seemed suddenly +within De la Verendrye's grasp. Carried away with the passion for +discovery that ruled his age, he took passage in the canoes bound for +Quebec. The Marquis Charles de Beauharnois had become governor. His +brother Claude had taken part in the exploration of the Mississippi. +The governor favored the project of the Western Sea. Perhaps Russia's +activity gave edge to the governor's zest; but he promised De la +Verendrye the court's patronage and prestige. This was not money. +France would not advance the enthusiast one sou, but granted him a +monopoly of the fur trade in the countries which he might discover. +The winter of 1731-1732 was spent by De la Verendrye as the guest of +the governor at Chateau St. Louis, arranging with merchants to furnish +goods for trade; and on May 19 the agreement was signed. By a lucky +coincidence, the same winter that M. de la Verendrye had come down to +Quebec, there had arrived from the Mississippi fort, his nephew, +Christopher Dufrost, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, who had commanded the Sioux +post and been prisoner among the Indians. So M. de la Verendrye chose +Jemmeraie for lieutenant. + +And now the explorer was back at Michilimackinac, on the way to the +accomplishment of the daring ambition of his life. The trip from +Montreal had fatigued the _voyageurs_. Brandy flowed at the lake post +freely as at a modern mining camp. The explorer kept military +discipline over his men. They received no pay which could be +squandered away on liquor. Discontent grew rife. Taking Father +Messaiger, the Jesuit, as chaplain, M. de la Verendrye ordered his +grumbling _voyageurs_ to their canoes, and, passing through the Straits +of the Sault, headed his fleet once more for the Western Sea. Other +explorers had preceded him on this part of the route. The Jesuits had +coasted the north shore of Lake Superior. So had Radisson. In 1688 De +Noyon of Three Rivers had gone as far west as the Lake of the Woods +towards what is now Minnesota and Manitoba; and in 1717 De Lanoue had +built a fur post at Kaministiquia, near what is now Fort William on +Lake Superior. The shore was always perilous to the boatman of frail +craft. The harbors were fathoms deep, and the waves thrashed by a +cross wind often proved as dangerous as the high sea. It took M. de la +Verendrye's canoemen a month to coast from the Straits of Mackinaw to +Kaministiquia, which they reached on the 26th of August, seventy-eight +days after they had left Montreal. The same distance is now traversed +in two days. + +Prospects were not encouraging. The crews were sulky. Kaministiquia +was the outermost post in the West. Within a month, the early Northern +winter would set in. One hunter can scramble for his winter's food +where fifty will certainly starve; and the Indians could not be +expected back from the chase with supplies of furs and food till +spring. The canoemen had received no pay. Free as woodland denizens, +they chafed under military command. Boats were always setting out at +this season for the homeland hamlets of the St. Lawrence; and perhaps +other hunters told De la Verendrye's men that this Western Sea was a +will-o'-the-wisp that would lead for leagues and leagues over strange +lands, through hostile tribes, to a lonely death in the wilderness. +When the explorer ordered his men once more in line to launch for the +Western Sea, there was outright mutiny. Soldiers and boatmen refused +to go on. The Jesuit Messaiger threatened and expostulated with the +men. Jemmeraie, who had been among the Sioux, interceded with the +_voyageurs_. A compromise was effected. Half the boatmen would go +ahead with Jemmeraie if M. de la Verendrye would remain with the other +half at Lake Superior as a rear guard for retreat and the supply of +provisions. So the explorer suffered his first check in the advance to +the Western Sea. + + +III + +1732-1736 + +Equipping four canoes, Lieutenant de la Jemmeraie and young Jean +Ba'tiste de la Verendrye set out with thirty men from Kaministiquia, +_portaged_ through dense forests over moss and dank rock past the high +cataract of the falls, and launched westward to prepare a fort for the +reception of their leader in spring. Before winter had closed +navigation, Fort St. Pierre--named in honor of the explorer--had been +erected on the left bank or Minnesota side of Rainy Lake, and the two +young men not only succeeded in holding their mutinous followers, but +drove a thriving trade in furs with the Crees. Perhaps the furs were +obtained at too great cost, for ammunition and firearms were the price +paid, but the same mistake has been made at a later day for a lesser +object than the discovery of the Western Sea. The spring of 1732 saw +the young men back at Lake Superior, going post-haste to +Michilimackinac to exchange furs for the goods from Montreal. + +On the 8th of June, exactly a year from the day that he had left +Montreal, M. de la Verendrye pushed forward with all his people for +Fort St. Pierre. Five weeks later he was welcomed inside the +stockades. Uniformed soldiers were a wonder to the awe-struck Crees, +who hung round the gateway with hands over their hushed lips. Gifts of +ammunition won the loyalty of the chiefs. Not to be lacking in +generosity, the Indians collected fifty of their gaudiest canoes and +offered to escort the explorer west to the Lake of the Woods. De la +Verendrye could not miss such an offer. Though his _voyageurs_ were +fatigued, he set out at once. He had reached Fort St. Pierre on July +14. In August his entire fleet glided over the Lake of the Woods. The +threescore canoes manned by the Cree boatmen threaded the shadowy +defiles and labyrinthine channels of the Lake of the Woods--or Lake of +the Isles--coasting island after island along the south or Minnesota +shore westward to the opening of the river at the northwest angle. +This was the border of the Sioux territory. Before the boatmen opened +the channel of an unknown river. Around them were sheltered harbors, +good hunting, and good fishing. The Crees favored this region for +winter camping ground because they could hide their families from the +Sioux on the sheltered islands of the wooded lake. Night frosts had +painted the forests red. The flacker of wild-fowl overhead, the skim +of ice forming on the lake, the poignant sting of the north wind--all +fore-warned winter's approach. Jean de la Verendrye had not come up +with the supplies from Michilimackinac. The explorer did not tempt +mutiny by going farther. He ordered a halt and began building a fort +that was to be the centre of operations between Montreal and the +unfound Western Sea. The fort was named St. Charles in honor of +Beauharnois. It was defended by four rows of thick palisades fifteen +feet high. In the middle of the enclosure stood the living quarters, +log cabins with thatched roofs. + +[Illustration: A Group of Cree Indians.] + +By October the Indians had scattered to their hunting-grounds like +leaves to the wind. The ice thickened. By November the islands were +ice-locked and snow had drifted waist-high through the forests. The +_voyageurs_ could still fish through ice holes for food; but where was +young Jean who was to bring up provisions from Michilimackinac? The +commander did not voice his fears; and his men were too deep in the +wilds for desertion. One afternoon, a shout sounded from the silent +woods, and out from the white-edged evergreens stepped a figure on +snowshoes--Jean de la Verendrye, leading his boatmen, with the +provisions packed on their backs, from a point fifty miles away where +the ice had caught the canoes. If the supplies had not come, the +explorer could neither have advanced nor retreated in spring. It was a +risk that De la Verendrye did not intend to have repeated. Suspecting +that his merchant partners were dissatisfied, he sent Jemmeraie down to +Montreal in 1733 to report and urge the necessity for prompt forwarding +of all supplies. With Jemmeraie went the Jesuit Messaiger; but their +combined explanations failed to satisfy the merchants of Montreal. De +la Verendrye had now been away three years. True, he had constructed +two fur posts and sent East two cargoes of furs. His partners were +looking for enormous wealth. Disappointed and caring nothing for the +Western Sea; perhaps, too, secretly accusing De la Verendrye of making +profits privately, as many a gentleman of fortune did,--the merchants +decided to advance provisions only in proportion to earnings. What +would become of the fifty men in the Northern wilderness the partners +neither asked nor cared. + +Young Jean had meanwhile pushed on and built Fort Maurepas on Lake +Winnipeg; but his father dared not leave Fort St. Charles without +supplies. De la Verendrye's position was now desperate. He was +hopelessly in debt to his men for wages. That did not help discipline. +His partners were not only withholding supplies, but charging up a high +rate of interest on the first equipment. To turn back meant ruin. To +go forward he was powerless. Leaving Jemmeraie in command, and +permitting his eager son to go ahead with a few picked men to Fort +Maurepas on Lake Winnipeg, De la Verendrye took a small canoe and +descended with all swiftness to Quebec. The winter of 1634-1635 was +spent with the governor; and the partners were convinced that they must +either go on with the venture or lose all. They consented to continue +supplying goods, but also charging all outlay against the explorer. + +Father Aulneau went back with De la Verendrye as chaplain. The trip +was made at terrible speed, in the hottest season, through stifling +forest fires. Behind, at slower pace, came the provisions. De la +Verendrye reached the Lake of the Woods in September. Fearing the +delay of the goods for trade, and dreading the danger of famine with so +many men in one place, De la Verendrye despatched Jemmeraie to winter +with part of the forces at Lake Winnipeg, where Jean and Pierre, the +second son, had built Fort Maurepas. The worst fears were realized. +Ice had blocked the Northern rivers by the time the supplies had come +to Lake Superior. Fishing failed. The hunt was poor. During the +winter of 1736 food became scantier at the little forts of St. Pierre, +St. Charles, and Maurepas. Rations were reduced from three times to +once and twice a day. By spring De la Verendrye was put to all the +extremities of famine-stricken traders, his men subsisting on +parchment, moccasin leather, roots, and their hunting dogs. + +He was compelled to wait at St. Charles for the delayed supplies. +While he waited came blow upon blow: Jean and Pierre arrived from Fort +Maurepas with news that Jemmeraie had died three weeks before on his +way down to aid De la Verendrye. Wrapped in a hunter's robe, his body +was buried in the sand-bank of a little Northern stream, La Fourche des +Roseaux. Over the lonely grave the two brothers had erected a cross. +Father and sons took stock of supplies. They had not enough powder to +last another month, and already the Indians were coming in with furs +and food to be traded for ammunition. If the Crees had known the +weakness of the white men, short work might have been made of Fort St. +Charles. It never entered the minds of De la Verendrye and his sons to +give up. They decided to rush three canoes of twenty _voyageurs_ to +Michilimackinac for food and powder. Father Aulneau, the young priest, +accompanied the boatmen to attend a religious retreat at +Michilimackinac. It had been a hard year for the youthful missionary. +The ship that brought him from France had been plague-stricken. The +trip to Fort St. Charles had been arduous and swift, through stifling +heat; and the year passed in the North was one of famine. + +Accompanied by the priest and led by Jean de la Verendrye, now in his +twenty-third year, the _voyageurs_ embarked hurriedly on the 8th of +June, 1736, five years to a day from the time that they left +Montreal--and a fateful day it was--in the search for the Western Sea. +The Crees had always been friendly; and when the boatmen landed on a +sheltered island twenty miles from Fort St. Charles to camp for the +night, no sentry was stationed. The lake lay calm as glass in the hot +June night, the camp-fire casting long lines across the water that +could be seen for miles. An early start was to be made in the morning +and a furious pace to be kept all the way to Lake Superior, and the +_voyageurs_ were presently sound asleep on the sand. The keenest ears +could scarcely have distinguished the soft lapping of muffled paddles; +and no one heard the moccasined tread of ambushed Indians +reconnoitring. Seventeen Sioux stepped from their canoes, stole from +cover to cover, and looked out on the unsuspecting sleepers. Then the +Indians as noiselessly slipped back to their canoes to carry word of +the discovery to a band of marauders. + +[Illustration: "The soldiers marched out from Mount Royal."] + +Something had occurred at Fort St. Charles without M. de la Verendrye's +knowledge. Hilarious with their new possessions of firearms, and +perhaps, also, mad with the brandy of which Father Aulneau had +complained, a few mischievous Crees had fired from the fort on +wandering Sioux of the prairie. + +"Who--fire--on--us?" demanded the outraged Sioux. + +"The French," laughed the Crees. + +The Sioux at once went back to a band of one hundred and thirty +warriors. "Tigers of the plains" the Sioux were called, and now the +tigers' blood was up. They set out to slay the first white man seen. +By chance, he was one Bourassa, coasting by himself. Taking him +captive, they had tied him to burn him, when a slave squaw rushed out, +crying: "What would you do? This Frenchman is a friend of the Sioux! +He saved my life! If you desire to be avenged, go farther on! You +will find a camp of Frenchmen, among whom is the son of the white +chief!" + +The _voyageur_ was at once unbound, and scouts scattered to find the +white men. Night had passed before the scouts had carried news of Jean +de la Verendrye's men to the marauding warriors. The ghostly gray of +dawn saw the _voyageurs_ paddling swiftly through the morning mist from +island to island of the Lake of the Woods. Cleaving the mist behind, +following solely by the double foam wreaths rippling from the canoe +prows, came the silent boats of the Sioux. When sunrise lifted the +fog, the pursuers paused like stealthy cats. At sunrise Jean de la +Verendrye landed his crews for breakfast. Camp-fires told the Indians +where to follow. + + +A few days later bands of Sautaux came to the camping ground of the +French. The heads of the white men lay on a beaver skin. All had been +scalped. The missionary, Aulneau, was on his knees, as if in morning +prayers. An arrow projected from his head. His left hand was on the +earth, fallen forward, his right hand uplifted, invoking Divine aid. +Young Verendrye lay face down, his back hacked to pieces, a spear sunk +in his waist, the headless body mockingly decorated with porcupine +quills. So died one of the bravest of the young nobility in New France. + +The Sautaux erected a cairn of stones over the bodies of the dead. All +that was known of the massacre was vague Indian gossip. The Sioux +reported that they had not intended to murder the priest, but a +crazy-brained fanatic had shot the fatal arrow and broken from +restraint, weapon in hand. Rain-storms had washed out all marks of the +fray. + +In September the bodies of the victims were carried to Fort St. +Charles, and interred in the chapel. Eight hundred Crees besought M. +de la Verendrye to let them avenge the murder; but the veteran of +Malplaquet exhorted them not to war. Meanwhile, Fort St. Charles +awaited the coming of supplies from Lake Superior. + + +IV + +1736-1740 + +A week passed, and on the 17th of June the canoe loads of ammunition +and supplies for which the murdered _voyageurs_ had been sent arrived +at Fort St. Charles. In June the Indian hunters came in with the +winter's hunt; and on the 20th thirty Sautaux hurried to Fort St. +Charles, to report that they had found the mangled bodies of the +massacred Frenchmen on an island seven leagues from the fort. Again La +Verendrye had to choose whether to abandon his cherished dreams, or +follow them at the risk of ruin and death. As before, when his men had +mutinied, he determined to advance. + +Jean, the eldest son, was dead. Pierre and Francois were with their +father. Louis, the youngest, now seventeen years of age, had come up +with the supplies. Pierre at once went to Lake Winnipeg, to prepare +Fort Maurepas for the reception of all the forces. Winter set in. +Snow lay twelve feet deep in the forests now known as the Minnesota +Borderlands. On February 8, 1737, in the face of a biting north wind, +with the thermometer at forty degrees below zero, M. de la Verendrye +left Fort St. Charles, Francois carrying the French flag, with ten +soldiers, wearing snow-shoes, in line behind, and two or three hundred +Crees swathed in furs bringing up a ragged rear. The bright uniforms +of the soldiers were patches of red among the snowy everglades. +Bivouac was made on beds of pine boughs,--feet to the camp-fire, the +night frost snapping like a whiplash, the stars flashing with a steely +clearness known only in northern climes. The march was at a swift +pace, for three weeks by canoe is short enough time to traverse the +Minnesota and Manitoba Borderlands northwest to Lake Winnipeg; and in +seventeen days M. de la Verendrye was at Fort Maurepas. + +Fort Maurepas (in the region of the modern Alexander) lay on a tongue +of sand extending into the lake a few miles beyond the entrance of Red +River. Tamarack and poplar fringe the shore; and in windy weather the +lake is lashed into a roughness that resembles the flux of ocean tides. +I remember once going on a steamer towards the site of Maurepas. The +ship drew lightest of draft. While we were anchored the breeze fell, +and the ship was stranded as if by ebb tide for twenty-four hours. The +action of the wind explained the Indian tales of an ocean tide, which +had misled La Verendrye into expecting to find the Western Sea at this +point. He found a magnificent body of fresh water, but not the ocean. +The fort was the usual pioneer fur post--a barracks of unbarked logs, +chinked up with frozen clay and moss, roofed with branches and snow, +occupying the centre of a courtyard, palisaded by slabs of pine logs. +M. de la Verendrye was now in the true realm of the explorer--in +territory where no other white man had trod. With a shout his motley +forces emerged from the snowy tamaracks, and with a shout from Pierre +de la Verendrye and his tawny followers the explorer was welcomed +through the gateway of little Fort Maurepas. + +[Illustration: Traders' Boats running the Rapids of the Athabasca +River.] + +Pierre de la Verendrye had heard of a region to the south much +frequented by the Assiniboine Indians, who had conducted Radisson to +the Sea of the North fifty years before--the Forks where the +Assiniboine River joins the Red, and the city of Winnipeg stands +to-day. It was reported that game was plentiful here. Two hundred +tepees of Assiniboines were awaiting the explorer. His forces were +worn with their marching, but in a few weeks the glaze of ice above the +fathomless drifts of snow would be too rotten for travel, and not until +June would the riverways be clear for canoes. But such a scant supply +of goods had his partners sent up that poor De la Verendrye had nothing +to trade with the waiting Assiniboines. Sending his sons forward to +reconnoitre the Forks of the Assiniboine,--the modern Winnipeg,--he set +out for Montreal as soon as navigation opened, taking with him fourteen +great canoes of precious furs. + +The fourteen canoe loads proved his salvation. As long as there were +furs and prospects of furs, his partners would back the enterprise of +finding the Western Sea. The winter of 1738 was spent as the guest of +the governor at Chateau St. Louis. The partners were satisfied, and +plucked up hope of their venture. They would advance provisions in +proportion to earnings. By September he was back at Fort Maurepas on +Lake Winnipeg, pushing for the undiscovered bourne of the Western Sea. +Leaving orders for trade with the chief clerk at Maurepas, De la +Verendrye picked out his most intrepid men; and in September of 1738, +for the first time in history, white men glided up the ochre-colored, +muddy current of the Red for the Forks of the Assiniboine. Ten Cree +wigwams and two war chiefs awaited De la Verendrye on the low flats of +what are now known as South Winnipeg. Not the fabled Western Sea, but +an illimitable ocean of rolling prairie--the long russet grass rising +and falling to the wind like waves to the run of invisible +feet--stretched out before the eager eyes of the explorer. Northward +lay the autumn-tinged brushwood of Red River. South, shimmering in the +purple mists of Indian summer, was Red River Valley. Westward the sun +hung like a red shield, close to the horizon, over vast reaches of +prairie billowing to the sky-line in the tide of a boundless ocean. +Such was the discovery of the Canadian Northwest. + +Doubtless the weary gaze of the tired _voyageurs_ turned longingly +westward. Where was the Western Sea? Did it lie just beyond the +horizon where skyline and prairie met, or did the trail of their quest +run on--on--on--endlessly? The Assiniboine flows into the Red, the Red +into Lake Winnipeg, the Lake into Hudson Bay. Plainly, Assiniboine +Valley was not the way to the Western Sea. But what lay just beyond +this Assiniboine Valley? An old Cree chief warned the boatmen that the +Assiniboine River was very low and would wreck the canoes; but he also +told vague yarns of "great waters beyond the mountains of the setting +sun," where white men dwelt, and the waves came in a tide, and the +waters were salt. The Western Sea where the Spaniards dwelt had long +been known. It was a Western Sea to the north, that would connect +Louisiana and Canada, that De la Verendrye sought. The Indian fables, +without doubt, referred to a sea beyond the Assiniboine River, and +thither would De la Verendrye go at any cost. Some sort of barracks or +shelter was knocked up on the south side of the Assiniboine opposite +the flats. It was subsequently known as Fort Rouge, after the color of +the adjacent river, and was the foundation of Winnipeg. Leaving men to +trade at Fort Rouge, De la Verendrye set out on September 26, 1738, for +the height of land that must lie beyond the sources of the Assiniboine. +De la Verendrye was now like a man hounded by his own Frankenstein. A +thousand leagues--every one marked by disaster and failure and sinking +hopes--lay behind him. A thousand leagues of wilderness lay before +him. He had only a handful of men. The Assiniboine Indians were of +dubious friendliness. The white men were scarce of food. In a few +weeks they would be exposed to the terrible rigors of Northern winter. +Yet they set their faces toward the west, types of the pioneers who +have carved empire out of wilderness. + +[Illustration: The Ragged Sky-line of the Mountains.] + +The Assiniboine was winding and low, with many sand bars. On the +wooded banks deer and buffalo grazed in such countless multitudes that +the boatmen took them for great herds of cattle. Flocks of wild geese +darkened the sky overhead. As the boats wound up the shallows of the +river, ducks rose in myriad flocks. Prairie wolves skulked away from +the river bank, and the sand-hill cranes were so unused to human +presence that they scarcely rose as the voyageurs poled past. While +the boatmen poled, the soldiers marched in military order across +country, so avoiding the bends of the river. Daily, Crees and +Assiniboines of the plains joined the white men. A week after leaving +the Forks or Fort Rouge, De la Verendrye came to the Portage of the +Prairie, leading north to Lake Manitoba and from the lake to Hudson +Bay. Clearly, northward was not the way to the Western Sea; but the +Assiniboines told of a people to the southwest--the Mandans--who knew a +people who lived on the Western Sea. As soon as his baggage came up, +De la Verendrye ordered the construction of a fort--called De la +Reine--on the banks of the Assiniboine. This was to be the forwarding +post for the Western Sea. To the Mandans living on the Missouri, who +knew a people living on salt water, De la Verendrye now directed his +course. + +[Illustration: Hungry Hall, 1870; near the site of the Verendrye Fort +in Rainy River Region.] + +On the morning of October 18 drums beat to arms. Additional men had +come up from the other forts. Fifty-two soldiers and _voyageurs_ now +stood in line. Arms were inspected. To each man were given powder, +balls, axe, and kettle. Pierre and Francois de la Verendrye hoisted +the French flag. For the first time a bugle call sounded over the +prairie. At the word, out stepped the little band of white men, +marking time for the Western Sea. The course lay west-southwest, up +the Souris River, through wooded ravines now stripped of foliage, past +alkali sloughs ice-edged by frost, over rolling cliffs russet and bare, +where gopher and badger and owl and roving buffalo were the only signs +of life. On the 21st of October two hundred Assiniboine warriors +joined the marching white men. In the sheltered ravines buffalo grazed +by the hundreds of thousands, and the march was delayed by frequent +buffalo hunts to gather pemmican--pounded marrow and fat of the +buffalo--which was much esteemed by the Mandans. Within a month so +many Assiniboines had joined the French that the company numbered more +than six hundred warriors, who were ample protection against the Sioux; +and the Sioux were the deadly terror of all tribes of the plains. But +M. de la Verendrye was expected to present ammunition to his +Assiniboine friends. + +Four outrunners went speeding to the Missouri to notify the Mandans of +the advancing warriors. The _coureurs_ carried presents of pemmican. +To prevent surprise, the Assiniboines marched under the sheltered +slopes of the hills and observed military order. In front rode the +warriors, dressed in garnished buckskin and armed with spears and +arrows. Behind, on foot, came the old and the lame. To the rear was +another guard of warriors. Lagging in ragged lines far back came a +ragamuffin brigade, the women, children, and dogs--squaws astride +cayuses lean as barrel hoops, children in moss bags on their mothers' +backs, and horses and dogs alike harnessed with the _travaille_--two +sticks tied into a triangle, with the shafts fastened to a cinch on +horse or dog. The joined end of the shafts dragged on the ground, and +between them hung the baggage, surmounted by papoose, or pet owl, or +the half-tamed pup of a prairie-wolf, or even a wild-eyed young squaw +with hair flying to the wind. At night camp was made in a circle +formed of the hobbled horses. Outside, the dogs scoured in pursuit of +coyotes. The women and children took refuge in the centre, and the +warriors slept near their picketed horses. By the middle of November +the motley cavalcade had crossed the height of land between the +Assiniboine River and the Missouri, and was heading for the Mandan +villages. Mandan _coureurs_ came out to welcome the visitors, +pompously presenting De la Verendrye with corn in the ear and tobacco. +At this stage, the explorer discovered that his bag of presents for his +hosts had been stolen by the Assiniboines; but he presented the Mandans +with what ammunition he could spare, and gave them plenty of pemmican +which his hunters had cured. The two tribes drove a brisk trade in +furs, which the northern Indians offered, and painted plumes, which the +Mandans displayed to the envy of Assiniboine warriors. + +On the 3d of December, De la Verendrye's sons stepped before the ragged +host of six hundred savages with the French flag hoisted. The explorer +himself was lifted to the shoulders of the Mandan _coureurs_. A gun +was fired and the strange procession set out for the Mandan villages. +In this fashion white men first took possession of the Upper Missouri. +Some miles from the lodges a band of old chiefs met De la Verendrye and +gravely handed him a grand calumet of pipestone ornamented with eagle +feathers. This typified peace. De la Verendrye ordered his fifty +French followers to draw up in line. The sons placed the French flag +four paces to the fore. The Assiniboine warriors took possession in +stately Indian silence to the right and left of the whites. At a +signal three thundering volleys of musketry were fired. The Mandans +fell back, prostrated with fear and wonder. The command "forward" was +given, and the Mandan village was entered in state at four in the +afternoon of December 3, 1738. + +The village was in much the same condition as a hundred years later +when visited by Prince Maximilian and by the artist Catlin. It +consisted of circular huts, with thatched roofs, on which perched the +gaping women and children. Around the village of huts ran a moat or +ditch, which was guarded in time of war with the Sioux. Flags flew +from the centre poles of each hut; but the flags were the scalps of +enemies slain. In the centre of the village was a larger hut. This +was the "medicine lodge," or council hall, of the chiefs, used only for +ceremonies of religion and war and treaties of peace. Thither De la +Verendrye was conducted. Here the Mandan chiefs sat on buffalo robes +in a circle round the fire, smoking the calumet, which was handed to +the white man. The explorer then told the Indians of his search for +the Western Sea. Of a Western Sea they could tell him nothing +definite. They knew a people far west who grew corn and tobacco and +who lived on the shores of water that was bitter for drinking. The +people were white. They dressed in armor and lived in houses of stone. +Their country was full of mountains. More of the Western Sea, De la +Verendrye could not learn. + +Meanwhile, six hundred Assiniboine visitors were a tax on the +hospitality of the Mandans, who at once spread a rumor of a Sioux raid. +This gave speed to the Assiniboines' departure. Among the Assiniboines +who ran off in precipitate fright was De la Verendrye's interpreter. +It was useless to wait longer. The French were short of provisions, +and the Missouri Indians could not be expected to support fifty white +men. Though it was the bitter cold of midwinter, De la Verendrye +departed for Fort de la Reine. Two Frenchmen were left to learn the +Missouri dialects. A French flag in a leaden box with the arms of +France inscribed was presented to the Mandan chief; and De la Verendrye +marched from the village on the 8th of December. Scarcely had he left, +when he fell terribly ill; but for the pathfinder of the wilderness +there is neither halt nor retreat. M. de la Verendrye's ragged army +tramped wearily on, half blinded by snow glare and buffeted by prairie +blizzards, huddling in snowdrifts from the wind at night and uncertain +of their compass over the white wastes by day. There is nothing so +deadly silent and utterly destitute of life as the prairie in +midwinter. Moose and buffalo had sought the shelter of wooded ravines. +Here a fox track ran over the snow. There a coyote skulked from cover, +to lope away the next instant for brushwood or hollow, and +snow-buntings or whiskey-jacks might have followed the marchers for +pickings of waste; but east, west, north, and south was nothing but the +wide, white wastes of drifted snow. On Christmas Eve of 1738 low +curling smoke above the prairie told the wanderers that they were +nearing the Indian camps of the Assiniboines; and by nightfall of +February 10, 1739, they were under the shelter of Fort de la Reine. "I +have never been so wretched from illness and fatigue in all my life as +on that journey," reported De la Verendrye. As usual, provisions were +scarce at the fort. Fifty people had to be fed. Buffalo and deer meat +saved the French from starvation till spring. + +[Illustration: A Monarch of the Plains.] + +All that De la Verendrye had accomplished on this trip was to learn +that salt water existed west-southwest. Anxious to know more of the +Northwest, he sent his sons to the banks of a great northern river. +This was the Saskatchewan. In their search of the Northwest, they +constructed two more trading posts, Fort Dauphin near Lake Manitoba, +and Bourbon on the Saskatchewan. Winter quarters were built at the +forks of the river, which afterwards became the site of Fort Poskoyac. +This spring not a canoe load of food came up from Montreal. Papers had +been served for the seizure of all De la Verendrye's forts, goods, +property, and chattels to meet the claims of his creditors. Desperate, +but not deterred from his quest, De la Verendrye set out to contest the +lawsuits in Montreal. + + +V + +1740-1750 + +Which way to turn now for the Western Sea that eluded their quest like +a will-o'-the-wisp was the question confronting Pierre, Francois, and +Louis de la Verendrye during the explorer's absence in Montreal. They +had followed the great Saskatchewan westward to its forks. No river +was found in this region flowing in the direction of the Western Sea. +They had been in the country of the Missouri; but neither did any river +there flow to a Western Sea. Yet the Mandans told of salt water far to +the west. Thither they would turn the baffling search. + +The two men left among the Mandans to learn the language had returned +to the Assiniboine River with more news of tribes from "the setting +sun" who dwelt on salt water. Pierre de la Verendrye went down to the +Missouri with the two interpreters; but the Mandans refused to supply +guides that year, and the young Frenchman came back to winter on the +Assiniboine. Here he made every preparation for another attempt to +find the Western Sea by way of the Missouri. On April 29, 1742, the +two brothers, Pierre and Francois, left the Assiniboine with the two +interpreters. Their course led along the trail that for two hundred +years was to be a famous highway between the Missouri and Hudson Bay. +Heading southwest, they followed the Souris River to the watershed of +the Missouri, and in three weeks were once more the guests of the smoky +Mandan lodges. Round the inside walls of each circular hut ran berth +beds of buffalo skin with trophies of the chase,--hide-shields and +weapons of war, fastened to the posts that separated berth from berth. +A common fire, with a family meat pot hanging above, occupied the +centre of the lodge. In one of these lodges the two brothers and their +men were quartered. The summer passed feasting with the Mandans and +smoking the calumet of peace; but all was in vain. The Missouri +Indians were arrant cowards in the matter of war. The terror of their +existence was the Sioux. The Mandans would not venture through Sioux +territory to accompany the brothers in the search for the Western Sea. +At last two guides were obtained, who promised to conduct the French to +a neighboring tribe that might know of the Western Sea. + +[Illustration: Fur Traders' Boats towed down the Saskatchewan in the +Summer of 1900.] + +The party set out on horseback, travelling swiftly southwest and along +the valley of the Little Missouri toward the Black Hills. Here their +course turned sharply west toward the Powder River country, past the +southern bounds of the Yellowstone. For three weeks they saw no sign +of human existence. Deer and antelope bounded over the parched alkali +uplands. Prairie dogs perched on top of their earth mounds, to watch +the lonely riders pass; and all night the far howl of grayish forms on +the offing of the starlit prairie told of prowling coyotes. On the +11th of August the brothers camped on the Powder Hills. Mounting to +the crest of a cliff, they scanned far and wide for signs of the +Indians whom the Mandans knew. The valleys were desolate. Kindling a +signal-fire to attract any tribes that might be roaming, they built a +hut and waited. A month passed. There was no answering signal. One +of the Mandan guides took himself off in fright. On the fifth week a +thin line of smoke rose against the distant sky. The remaining Mandans +went to reconnoitre and found a camp of Beaux Hommes, or Crows, who +received the French well. Obtaining fresh guides from the Crows and +dismissing the Mandans, the brothers again headed westward. The Crows +guided them to the Horse Indians, who in turn took the French to their +next western neighbors, the Bows. The Bows were preparing to war on +the Snakes, a mountain tribe to the west. Tepees dotted the valley. +Women were pounding the buffalo meat into pemmican for the raiders. +The young braves spent the night with war-song and war-dance, to work +themselves into a frenzy of bravado. The Bows were to march west; so +the French joined the warriors, gradually turning northwest toward what +is now Helena. + +It was winter. The hills were powdered with snow that obliterated all +traces of the fleeing Snakes. The way became more mountainous and +dangerous. Iced sloughs gave place to swift torrents and cataracts. +On New Year's day, 1743, there rose through the gray haze to the fore +the ragged sky-line of the Bighorn Mountains. Women and children were +now left in a sheltered valley, the warriors advancing unimpeded. +Francois de la Verendrye remained at the camp to guard the baggage. +Pierre went on with the raiders. In two weeks they were at the foot of +the main range of the northern Rockies. Against the sky the snowy +heights rose--an impassable barrier between the plains and the Western +Sea. What lay beyond--the Beyond that had been luring them on and on, +from river to river and land to land, for more than ten years? Surely +on the other side of those lofty summits one might look down on the +long-sought Western Sea. Never suspecting that another thousand miles +of wilderness and mountain fastness lay between him and his quest, +young De la Verendrye wanted to cross the Great Divide. Destiny +decreed otherwise. The raid of the Bows against the Snakes ended in a +fiasco. No Snakes were to be found at their usual winter hunt. Had +they decamped to massacre the Bow women and children left in the valley +to the rear? The Bows fled back to their wives in a panic; so De la +Verendrye could not climb the mountains that barred the way to the sea. +The retreat was made in the teeth of a howling mountain blizzard, and +the warriors reached the rendezvous more dead than alive. No Snake +Indians were seen at all. The Bows marched homeward along the valley +of the Upper Missouri through the country of the Sioux, with whom they +were allied. On the banks of the river the brothers buried a leaden +plate with the royal arms of France imprinted. At the end of July, +1743, they were once more back on the Assiniboine River. For thirteen +years they had followed a hopeless quest. Instead of a Western Sea, +they had found a sea of prairie, a sea of mountains, and two great +rivers, the Saskatchewan and the Missouri. + + +VI + +1743-1750 + +But the explorer, who had done so much to extend French domain in the +West, was a ruined man. To the accusations of his creditors were added +the jealous calumnies of fur traders eager to exploit the new country. +The eldest son, with tireless energy, had gone up the Saskatchewan to +Fort Poskoyac when he was recalled to take a position in the army at +Montreal. In 1746 De la Verendrye himself was summoned to Quebec and +his command given to M. de Noyelles. The game being played by jealous +rivals was plain. De la Verendrye was to be kept out of the West while +tools of the Quebec traders spied out the fur trade of the Assiniboine +and the Missouri. Immediately on receiving freedom from military duty, +young Chevalier de la Verendrye set out for Manitoba. On the way he +met his father's successor, M. de Noyelles, coming home crestfallen. +The supplanter had failed to control the Indians. In one year half the +forts of the chain leading to the Western Sea had been destroyed. +These Chevalier de la Verendrye restored as he passed westward. + +Governor Beauharnois had always refused to believe the charges of +private peculation against M. de la Verendrye. Governor de la +Galissonniere was equally favorable to the explorer; and De la +Verendrye was decorated with the Order of the Cross of St. Louis, and +given permission to continue his explorations. The winter of 1749 was +passed preparing supplies for the posts of the West; but a life of +hardship and disappointment had undermined the constitution of the +dauntless pathfinder. On the 6th of December, while busy with plans +for his hazardous and thankless quest, he died suddenly at Montreal. + +Rival fur traders scrambled for the spoils of the Manitoba and Missouri +territory like dogs for a bone. De la Jonquiere had become governor. +Allied with him was the infamous Bigot, the intendant, and those two +saw in the Western fur trade an opportunity to enrich themselves. The +rights of De la Verendrye's sons to succeed their father were entirely +disregarded. Legardeur de Saint-Pierre was appointed commander of the +Western Sea. The very goods forwarded by De la Verendrye were +confiscated. + +[Illustration: "Tepees dotted the valley."] + +But Saint-Pierre had enough trouble from his appointment. His +lieutenant, M. de Niverville, almost lost his life among hostiles on +the way down the Saskatchewan after building Fort Lajonquiere at the +foothills of the Rockies, where Calgary now stands. Saint-Pierre had +headquarters in Manitoba on the Assiniboine, and one afternoon in +midwinter, when his men were out hunting, he saw his fort suddenly fill +with armed Assiniboines bent on massacre. They jostled him aside, +broke into the armory, and helped themselves to weapons. Saint-Pierre +had only one recourse. Seizing a firebrand, he tore the cover off a +keg of powder and threatened to blow the Indians to perdition. The +marauders dashed from the fort, and Saint-Pierre shot the bolts of gate +and sally-port. When the white hunters returned, they quickly gathered +their possessions together and abandoned Fort de la Reine. Four days +later the fort lay in ashes. So ended the dream of enthusiasts to find +a way overland to the Western Sea. + + +[1] The authorities for La Verendrye's life are, of course, his own +reports as found in the State Papers of the Canadian Archives, Pierre +Margry's compilation of these reports, and the Rev. Father Jones' +collection of the _Aulneau Letters_. + +[2] The _Pays d'en Haut_ or "Up-Country" was the vague name given by +the fur traders to the region between the Missouri and the North Pole. + +[3] Throughout this volume the word "Sioux" is used as applying to the +entire confederacy, and not to the Minnesota Sioux only. + + + + +PART III + +1769-1782 + +SEARCH FOR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE LEADS + SAMUEL HEARNE TO THE ARCTIC CIRCLE AND + ATHABASCA REGION + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +1769-1782 + +SAMUEL HEARNE + +The Adventures of Hearne in his Search for the Coppermine River and the +Northwest Passage--Hilarious Life of Wassail led by Governor +Norton--The Massacre of the Eskimo by Hearne's Indians North of the +Arctic Circle--Discovery of the Athabasca Country--Hearne becomes +Resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, but is captured by the +French--Frightful Death of Norton and Suicide of Matonabbee + + +For a hundred years after receiving its charter to exploit the furs of +the North, the Hudson's Bay Company slumbered on the edge of a frozen +sea. + +Its fur posts were scattered round the desolate shores of the Northern +bay like beads on a string; but the languid Company never attempted to +penetrate the unknown lands beyond the coast. It was unnecessary. The +Indians came to the Company. The company did not need to go to the +Indians. Just as surely as spring cleared the rivers of ice and set +the unlocked torrents rushing to the sea, there floated down-stream +Indian dugout and birch canoe, loaded with wealth of peltries for the +fur posts of the English Company. So the English sat snugly secure +inside their stockades, lords of the wilderness, and drove a thriving +trade with folded hands. For a penny knife, they bought a beaver skin; +and the skin sold in Europe for two or three shillings. The trade of +the old Company was not brisk; but it paid. + +[Illustration: An Eskimo Belle. Note the apron of ermine and sable]. + +It was the prod of keen French traders that stirred the slumbering +giant. In his search for the Western Sea, De la Verendrye had pushed +west by way of the Great Lakes to the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains +and the Saskatchewan. Henceforth, not so many furs came down-stream to +the English Company on the bay. De la Verendrye had been followed by +hosts of free-lances--_coureurs_ and _voyageurs_--who spread through +the wilderness from the Missouri to the Athabasca, intercepting the +fleets of furs that formerly went to Hudson Bay. The English Company +rubbed its eyes; and rivals at home began to ask what had been done in +return for the charter. France had never ceased seeking the mythical +Western Sea that was supposed to lie just beyond the Mississippi; and +when French buccaneers destroyed the English Company's forts on the +bay, the English ambassador at Paris exacted such an enormous bill of +damages that the Hudson Bay traders were enabled to build a stronger +fortress up at Prince of Wales on the mouth of Churchill River than the +French themselves possessed at Quebec on the St. Lawrence. What--asked +the rivals of the Company in London--had been done in return for such +national protection? France had discovered and explored a whole new +world north of the Missouri. What had the English done? Where did the +Western Sea of which Spain had possession in the South lie towards the +North? What lay between the Hudson Bay and that Western Sea? Was +there a Northwest passage by water through this region to Asia? If +not, was there an undiscovered world in the North, like Louisiana in +the South? There was talk of revoking the charter. Then the Company +awakened from its long sleep with a mighty stir. + +The annual boats that came out to Hudson Bay in the summer of 1769 +anchored on the offing, six miles from the gray walls of Fort Prince of +Wales, and roared out a salute of cannon becoming the importance of +ships that bore almost revolutionary commissions. The fort cannon on +the walls of Churchill River thundered their answer. A pinnace came +scudding over the waves from the ships. A gig boat launched out from +the fort to welcome the messengers. Where the two met halfway, packets +of letters were handed to Moses Norton, governor at Fort Prince of +Wales, commanding him to despatch his most intrepid explorers for the +discovery of unknown rivers, strange lands, rumored copper mines, and +the mythical Northwest Passage that was supposed to lead directly to +China. + +The fort lay on a spit of sand running out into the bay at the mouth of +Churchill River. It was three hundred yards long by three hundred +yards wide, with four bastions, in three of which were stores and wells +of water. The fourth bastion contained the powder-magazine. The walls +were thirty feet wide at the bottom and twenty feet wide at the top, of +hammer-dressed stone, mounted with forty great cannon. A commodious +stone house, furnished with all the luxuries of the chase, stood in the +centre of the courtyard. This was the residence of the governor. +Offices, warehouses, barracks, and hunters' lodges were banked round +the inner walls of the fort. The garrison consisted of thirty-nine +common soldiers and a few officers. In addition, there hung about the +fort the usual habitues of a Northern fur post,--young clerks from +England, who had come out for a year's experience in the wilds; +underpaid artisans, striving to mend their fortunes by illicit trade; +hunters and _coureurs_ and _voyageurs_, living like Indians but with a +strain of white blood that forever distinguished them from their +comrades; stately Indian sachems, stalking about the fort with whiffs +of contempt from their long calumets for all this white-man luxury; and +a ragamuffin brigade,--squaws, youngsters, and beggars,--who subsisted +by picking up food from the waste heap of the fort. + +The commission to despatch explorers to the inland country proved the +sensation of a century at the fort. Round the long mess-room table +gathered officers and traders, intent on the birch-bark maps drawn by +old Indian chiefs of an unknown interior, where a "Far-Off-Metal River" +flowed down to the Northwest Passage. Huge log fires blazed on the +stone hearths at each end of the mess room. Smoky lanterns and pine +fagots, dipped in tallow and stuck in iron clamps, shed a fitful light +from rafters that girded ceiling and walls. On the floor of flagstones +lay enormous skins of the chase--polar bear, Arctic wolf, and grizzly. +Heads of musk-ox, caribou, and deer decorated the great timber girders. +Draped across the walls were Company flags--an English ensign with the +letters "H. B. C." painted in white on a red background, or in red on a +white background. + +At the head of the table sat one of the most remarkable scoundrels +known in the annals of the Company, Moses Norton, governor of Fort +Prince of Wales, a full-blooded Indian, who had been sent to England +for nine years to be educated and had returned to the fort to resume +all the vices and none of the virtues of white man and red. +Clean-skinned, copper-colored, lithe and wiry as a tiger cat, with the +long, lank, oily black hair of his race, Norton bore himself with all +the airs of a European princelet and dressed himself in the beaded +buckskins of a savage. Before him the Indians cringed as before one of +their demon gods, and on the same principle. Bad gods could do the +Indians harm. Good gods wouldn't. Therefore, the Indians propitiated +the bad gods; and of all Indian demons Norton was the worst. The black +arts of mediaeval poisoning were known to him, and he never scrupled to +use them against an enemy. The Indians thought him possessed of the +power of the evil eye; but his power was that of arsenic or laudanum +dropped in the food of an unsuspecting enemy. Two of his wives, with +all of whom he was inordinately jealous, had died of poison. Against +white men who might offend him he used more open means,--the triangle, +the whipping post, the branding iron. Needless to say that a man who +wielded such power swelled the Company's profits and stood high in +favor with the directors. At his right hand lay an enormous bunch of +keys. These he carried with him by day and kept under his pillow by +night. They were the keys to the apartments of his many wives, for +like all Indians Norton believed in a plurality of wives, and the life +of no Indian was safe who refused to contribute a daughter to the +harem. The two master passions of the governor were jealousy and +tyranny; and while he lived like a Turkish despot himself, he ruled his +fort with a rod of iron and left the brand of his wrath on the person +of soldier or officer who offered indignity to the Indian race. It was +a common thing for Norton to poison an Indian who refused to permit a +daughter to join the collection of wives; then to flog the back off a +soldier who casually spoke to one of the wives in the courtyard; and in +the evening spend the entire supper hour preaching sermons on virtue to +his men. By a curious freak, Marie, his daughter, now a child of nine, +inherited from her father the gentle qualities of the English life in +which he had passed his youth. She shunned the native women and was +often to be seen hanging on her father's arm, as officers and governor +smoked their pipes over the mess-room table. + +Near Norton sat another famous Indian, Matonabbee, the son of a slave +woman at the fort, who had grown up to become a great ambassador to the +native tribes for the English traders. Measuring more than six feet, +straight as a lance, supple as a wrestler, thin, wiry, alert, restless +with the instinct of the wild creatures, Matonabbee was now in the +prime of his manhood, chief of the Chipewyans at the fort, and master +of life and death to all in his tribe. It was Matonabbee whom the +English traders sent up the Saskatchewan to invite the tribes of the +Athabasca down to the bay. The Athabascans listened to the message of +peace with a treacherous smile. At midnight assassins stole to his +tent, overpowered his slave, and dragged the captive out. Leaping to +his feet, Matonabbee shouted defiance, hurled his assailants aside like +so many straws, pursued the raiders to their tents, single-handed +released his slave, and marched out unscathed. That was the way +Matonabbee had won the Athabascans for the Hudson's Bay Company. + +Officers of the garrison, bluff sea-captains, spinning yarns of iceberg +and floe, soldiers and traders, made up the rest of the company. Among +the white men was one eager face,--that of Samuel Hearne, who was to +explore the interior and now scanned the birch-bark drawings to learn +the way to the "Far-off-Metal River." + +[Illustration: Samuel Hearne.] + +By November 6 all was in readiness for the departure of the explorer. +Two Indian guides, who knew the way to the North, were assigned to +Hearne; two European servants went with him to look after the +provisions; and two Indian hunters joined the company. In the gray +mist of Northern dawn, with the stars still pricking through the frosty +air, seven salutes of cannon awakened the echoes of the frozen sea. +The gates of the fort flung open, creaking with the frost rust, and +Hearne came out, followed by his little company, the dog bells of the +long toboggan sleighs setting up a merry jingling as the huskies broke +from a trot to a gallop over the snow-fields for the North. Heading +west-northwest, the band travelled swiftly with all the enthusiasm of +untested courage. North winds cut their faces like whip-lashes. The +first night out there was not enough snow to make a wind-break of the +drifts; so the sleighs were piled on edge to windward, dogs and men +lying heterogeneously in their shelter. When morning came, one of the +Indian guides had deserted. The way became barer. Frozen swamps +across which the storm wind swept with hurricane force were succeeded +by high, rocky barrens devoid of game, unsheltered, with barely enough +stunted shrubbery for the whittling of chips that cooked the morning +and night meals. In a month the travellers had not accomplished ten +miles a day. Where deer were found the Indians halted to gorge +themselves with feasts. Where game was scarce they lay in camp, +depending on the white hunters. Within three weeks rations had +dwindled to one partridge a day for the entire company. The Indians +seemed to think that Hearne's white servants had secret store of food +on the sleighs. The savages refused to hunt. Then Hearne suspected +some ulterior design. It was to drive him back to the fort by famine. +Henceforth, he noticed on the march that the Indians always preceded +the whites and secured any game before his men could fire a shot. One +night toward the end of November the savages plundered the sleighs. +Hearne awakened in amazement to see the company marching off, laden +with guns, ammunition, and hatchets. He called. Their answer was +laughter that set the woods ringing. Hearne was now two hundred miles +from the fort, without either ammunition or food. There was nothing to +do but turn back. The weather was fair. By snaring partridges, the +white men obtained enough game to sustain them till they reached the +fort on the 11th of December. + +[Illustration: Eskimo using Double-bladed Paddle.] + +The question now was whether to wait till spring or set out in the +teeth of midwinter. If Hearne left the fort in spring, he could not +possibly reach the Arctic Circle till the following winter; and with +the North buried under drifts of snow, he could not learn where lay the +Northwest Passage. If he left the fort in winter in order to reach the +Arctic in summer, he must expose his guides to the risks of cold and +starvation. The Indians told of high, rocky barrens, across which no +canoes could be carried. They advised snow-shoe travel. Obtaining +three Chipewyans and two Crees as guides, and taking no white servants, +Hearne once more set out, on February 23, 1770, for the "Far-Away-Metal +River." This time there was no cannonading. The guns were buried +under snow-drifts twenty feet deep, and the snow-shoes of the +travellers glided over the fort walls to the echoing cheers of soldiers +and governor standing on the ramparts. The company travelled light, +depending on chance game for food. All wood that could be used for +fire lay hidden deep under snow. At wide intervals over the white +wastes mushroom cones of snow told where a stunted tree projected the +antlered branches of topmost bough through the depths of drift; but for +the most part camp was made by digging through the shallowest snow with +snow-shoes to the bottom of moss, which served the double purpose of +fuel for the night kettle and bed for travellers. In the hollow a +wigwam was erected, with the door to the south, away from the north +wind. Snared rabbits and partridges supplied the food. The way lay as +before--west-northwest--along a chain of frozen lakes and rivers +connecting Hudson Bay with the Arctic Ocean. By April the marchers +were on the margin of a desolate wilderness--the Indian region of +"Little Sticks,"--known to white men as the Barren Lands, where dwarf +trees project above the billowing wastes of snow like dismantled masts +on the far offing of a lonely sea. Game became scarcer. Neither the +round footprint of the hare nor the frost tracery of the northern +grouse marked the snowy reaches of unbroken white. Caribou had +retreated to the sheltered woods of the interior; and a cleverer hunter +than man had scoured the wide wastes of game. Only the wolf pack +roamed the Barren Lands. It was unsafe to go on without food. Hearne +kept in camp till the coming of the goose month--April--when birds of +passage wended their way north. For three days rations consisted of +snow water and pipes of tobacco. The Indians endured the privations +with stoical indifference, daily marching out on a bootless quest for +game. On the third night Hearne was alone in his tent. Twilight +deepened to night, night to morning. Still no hunters returned. Had +he been deserted? Not a sound broke the waste silence but the baying +of the wolf pack. Weak from hunger, Hearne fell asleep. Before +daylight he was awakened by a shout; and his Indians shambled over the +drifts laden with haunches of half a dozen deer. That relieved want +till the coming of the geese. In May Hearne struck across the Barren +Lands. By June the rotting snow clogged the snow-shoes. Dog trains +drew heavy, and food was again scarce. For a week the travellers found +nothing to eat but cranberries. Half the company was ill from hunger +when a mangy old musk-ox, shedding his fur and lean as barrel hoops, +came scrambling over the rocks, sure of foot as a mountain goat. A +single shot brought him down. In spite of the musky odor of which the +coarse flesh reeked, every morsel of the ox was instantly devoured. +Sometimes during their long fasts they would encounter a solitary +Indian wandering over the rocky barren. If he had arms, gun, or arrow, +and carried skins of the chase, he was welcomed to camp, no matter how +scant the fare. Otherwise he was shunned as an outcast, never to be +touched or addressed by a human being; for only one thing could have +fed an Indian on the Barren Lands who could show no trophies of the +chase, and that was the flesh of some human creature weaker than +himself. The outcast was a cannibal, condemned by an unwritten law to +wander alone through the wastes. + +Snow had barely cleared from the Barren Lands when Hearne witnessed the +great traverse of the caribou herds, marching in countless multitudes +with a clicking of horns and hoofs from west to east for the summer. +Indians from all parts of the North had placed themselves at rivers +across the line of march to spear the caribou as they swam; and Hearne +was joined by a company of six hundred savages. Summer had dried the +moss. That gave abundance of fuel. Caribou were plentiful. That +supplied the hunters with pemmican. Hearne decided to pass the +following winter with the Indians; but he was one white man among +hundreds of savages. Nightly his ammunition was plundered. One of his +survey instruments was broken in a wind storm. Others were stolen. It +was useless to go on without instruments to take observations of the +Arctic Circle; so for a second time Hearne was compelled to turn back +to Fort Prince of Wales. Terrible storms impeded the return march. +His dog was frozen in the traces. Tent poles were used for fire-wood; +and the northern lights served as the only compass. On midday of +November 25, 1770, after eight months' absence, in which he had not +found the "Far-Off-Metal River," Hearne reached shelter inside the fort +walls. + +Beating through the gales of sleet and snow on the homeward march, +Hearne had careened into a majestic figure half shrouded by the storm. +The explorer halted before a fur-muffled form, six feet in its +moccasins, erect as a mast pole, haughty as a king; and the gauntleted +hand of the Indian chief went up to his forehead in sign of peace. It +was Matonabbee, the ambassador of the Hudson's Bay Company to the +Athabascans, now returning to Fort Prince of Wales, followed by a long +line of slave women driving their dog sleighs. The two travellers +hailed each other through the storm like ships at sea. That night they +camped together on the lee side of the dog sleighs, piled high as a +wind-break; and Matonabbee, the famous courser of the Northern wastes, +gave Hearne wise advice. Women should be taken on a long journey, the +Indian chief said; for travel must be swift through the deadly cold of +the barrens. Men must travel light of hand, trusting to chance game +for food. Women were needed to snare rabbits, catch partridges, bring +in game shot by the braves, and attend to the camping. And then in a +burst of enthusiasm, perhaps warmed by Hearne's fine tobacco, +Matonabbee, who had found the way to the Athabasca, offered to conduct +the white man to the "Far-Off-Metal River" of the Arctic Circle. The +chief was the greatest pathfinder of the Northern tribes. His offer +was the chance of a lifetime. Hearne could hardly restrain his +eagerness till he reached the fort. Leaving Matonabbee to follow with +the slave women, the explorer hurried to Fort Prince of Wales, laid the +plan before Governor Norton, and in less than two weeks from the day of +his return was ready to depart for the unknown river that was to lead +to the Northwest Passage. + +The weather was dazzlingly clear, with that burnished brightness of +polished steel known only where unbroken sunlight meets unbroken snow +glare. On the 7th of December, 1770, Hearne left the fort, led by +Matonabbee and followed by the slave Indians with the dog sleighs. One +of Matonabbee's wives lay ill; but that did not hinder the iron +pathfinder. The woman was wrapped in robes and drawn on a dog sleigh. +There was neither pause nor hesitation. If the woman recovered, good. +If she died, they would bury her under a cairn of stones as they +travelled. Matonabbee struck directly west-northwest for some _caches_ +of provisions which he had left hidden on the trail. The place was +found; but the _caches_ had been rifled clean of food. That did not +stop Matonabbee. Nor did he show the slightest symptoms of anger. He +simply hastened their pace the more for their hunger, recognizing the +unwritten law of the wilderness--that starving hunters who had rifled +the _cache_ had a right to food wherever they found it. Day after day, +stoical as men of bronze, the marchers reeled off the long white miles +over the snowy wastes, pausing only for night sleep with evening and +morning meals. Here nibbled twigs were found; there the stamping +ground of a deer shelter; elsewhere the small, cleft foot-mark like the +ace of hearts. But the signs were all old. No deer were seen. Even +the black marble eye that betrays the white hare on the snow, and the +fluffy bird track of the feather-footed northern grouse, grew rarer; +and the slave women came in every morning empty-handed from untouched +snares. In spite of hunger and cold, Matonabbee remained good-natured, +imperturbable, hard as a man of bronze, coursing with the winged speed +of snow-shoes from morning till night without pause, going to a bed of +rock moss on a meal of snow water and rising eager as an arrow to leave +the bow-string for the next day's march. For three days before +Christmas the entire company had no food but snow. Christmas was +celebrated by starvation. Hearne could not indulge in the despair of +the civilized man's self-pity when his faithful guides went on without +complaint. + +[Illustration: Eskimo Family, taken by Light of Midnight Sun.--C. W. +Mathers.] + +By January the company had entered the Barren Lands. The Barren Lands +were bare but for an occasional oasis of trees like an island of refuge +in a shelterless sea. In the clumps of dwarf shrubs, the Indians found +signs that meant relief from famine--tufts of hair rubbed off on tree +trunks, fallen antlers, and countless heart-shaped tracks barely +puncturing the snow but for the sharp outer edge. The caribou were on +their yearly traverse east to west for the shelter of the inland woods. +The Indians at once pitched camp. Scouts went scouring to find which +way the caribou herds were coming. Pounds of snares were constructed +of shrubs and saplings stuck up in palisades with scarecrows on the +pickets round a V-shaped enclosure. The best hunters took their +station at the angle of the V, armed with loaded muskets and long, +lank, and iron-pointed arrows. Women and children lined the palisades +to scare back high jumpers or strays of the caribou herd. Then scouts +and dogs beat up the rear of the fleeing herd, driving the caribou +straight for the pound. By a curious provision of nature, the male +caribou sheds its antlers just as he leaves the Barren Lands for the +wooded interior, where the horns would impede flight through brush, and +he only leaves the woods for the bare open when the horns are grown +enough to fight the annual battle to protect the herd from the wolf +pack ravenous with spring hunger. For one caribou caught in the pound +by Hearne's Indians, a hundred of the herd escaped; for the caribou +crossed the Barrens in tens of thousands, and Matonabbee's braves +obtained enough venison for the trip to the "Far-Off-Metal River." + +The farther north they travelled the scanter became the growth of pine +and poplar and willow. Snow still lay heavy in April; but Matonabbee +ordered a halt while there was still large enough wood to construct +dugouts to carry provisions down the river. The boats were built large +and heavy in front, light behind. This was to resist the ice jam of +Northern currents. The caribou hunt had brought other Indians to the +Barren Lands. Matonabbee was joined by two hundred warriors. Though +the tribes puffed the calumet of peace together, they drew their war +hatchets when they saw the smoke of an alien tribe's fire rise against +the northern sky. A suspicion that he hardly dared to acknowledge +flashed through Hearne's mind. Eleven thousand beaver pelts were +yearly brought down to the fort from the unknown river. How did the +Chipewyans obtain these pelts from the Eskimo? What was the real +reason of the Indian eagerness to conduct the white man to the +"Far-Off-Metal River"? The white man was not taken into the confidence +of the Indian council; but he could not fail to draw his own +conclusions. + +Scouts were sent cautiously forward to trail the path of the aliens who +had lighted the far moss fire. Women and children were ordered to head +about for a rendezvous southwest on Lake Athabasca. Carrying only the +lightest supplies, the braves set out swiftly for the North on June 1. +Mist and rain hung so heavily over the desolate moors that the +travellers could not see twenty feet ahead. In places the rocks were +glazed with ice and scored with runnels of water. Half the warriors +here lost heart and turned back. The others led by Hearne and +Matonabbee crossed the iced precipices on hands and knees, with gun +stocks strapped to backs or held in teeth. On the 21st of June the sun +did not set. Hearne had crossed the Arctic Circle. The sun hung on +the southern horizon all night long. Henceforth the travellers marched +without tents. During rain or snow storm, they took refuge under rocks +or in caves. Provisions turned mouldy with wet. The moss was too +soaked for fire. Snow fell so heavily in drifting storms that Hearne +often awakened in the morning to find himself almost immured in the +cave where they had sought shelter. Ice lay solid on the lakes in +July. Once, clambering up steep, bare heights, the travellers met a +herd of a hundred musk-oxen scrambling over the rocks with the agility +of squirrels, the spreading, agile hoof giving grip that lifted the +hulking forms over all obstacles. Down the bleak, bare heights there +poured cataract and mountain torrent, plainly leading to some near +river bed; but the thick gray fog lay on the land like a blanket. At +last a thunder-storm cleared the air; and Hearne saw bleak moors +sloping north, bare of all growth but the trunks of burnt trees, with +barren heights of rock and vast, desolate swamps, where the wild-fowl +flocked in myriads. + +[Illustration: Fort Garry, Winnipeg, a Century Ago.] + +All count of day and night was now lost, for the sun did not set. +Sometime between midnight and morning of July 12, 1771, with the sun as +bright as noon, the lakes converged to a single river-bed a hundred +yards wide, narrowing to a waterfall that roared over the rocks in +three cataracts. This, then, was the "Far-Off-Metal River." Plainly, +it was a disappointing discovery, this Coppermine River. It did not +lead to China. It did not point the way to a Northwest Passage. In +his disappointment, Hearne learned what every other discoverer in North +America had learned--that the Great Northwest was something more than a +bridge between Europe and Asia, that it was a world in itself with its +own destiny.[1] + +But Hearne had no time to brood over disappointment. The conduct of +his rascally companions could no longer be misunderstood. Hunters came +in with game; but when the hungry slaves would have lighted a moss fire +to cook the meat, the forbidding hand of a chief went up. No fires +were to be lighted. The Indians advanced with whispers, dodging from +stone to stone like raiders in ambush. Spies went forward on tiptoe. +Then far down-stream below the cataracts Hearne descried the domed +tent-tops of an Eskimo band sound asleep; for it was midnight, though +the sun was at high noon. When Hearne looked back to his companions, +he found himself deserted. The Indians were already wading the river +for the west bank, where the Eskimo had camped. Hearne overtook his +guides stripping themselves of everything that might impede flight or +give hand-hold to an enemy, and daubing their skin with war-paint. +Hearne begged Matonabbee to restrain the murderous warriors. The great +chief smiled with silent contempt. He was too true a disciple of a +doctrine which Indians' practised hundreds of years before white men +had avowed it--the survival of the fit, the extermination of the weak, +for any qualms of pity towards a victim whose death would contribute +profit. Wearing only moccasins and bucklers of hardened hide, armed +with muskets, lances, and tomahawks, the Indians jostled Hearne out of +their way, stole forward from stone to stone to within a gun length of +the Eskimo, then with a wild war shout flung themselves on the +unsuspecting sleepers. + +The Eskimo were taken unprepared. They staggered from their tents, +still dazed in sleep, to be mowed down by a crashing of firearms which +they had never before heard. The poor creatures fled in frantic +terror, to be met only by lance point and gun butt. A young girl fell +coiling at Hearne's feet like a wounded snake. A well-aimed lance had +pinioned the living form to earth. She caught Hearne round the knees, +imploring him with dumb entreaty; but the white man was pushed back +with jeers. Sobbing with horror, Hearne begged the Indians to put +their victim out of pain. The rocks rang with the mockery of the +torturers. She was speared to death before Hearne's eyes. On that +scene of indescribable horror the white man could no longer bear to +look. He turned toward the river, and there was a spectacle like a +nightmare. Some of the Eskimo were escaping by leaping to their hide +boats and with lightning strokes of the double-bladed paddles dashing +down the current to the far bank of the river; but sitting motionless +as stone was an old, old woman--probably a witch of the tribe--red-eyed +as if she were blind, deaf to all the noise about her, unconscious of +all her danger, fishing for salmon below the falls. There was a shout +from the raiders; the old woman did not even look up to face her fate; +and she too fell a victim to that thirst for blood which is as +insatiable in the redskin as in the wolf pack. Odd commentary in our +modern philosophies--this white-man explorer, unnerved, unmanned, +weeping with pity, this champion of the weak, jostled aside by +bloodthirsty, triumphant savages, represented the race that was to +jostle the Indian from the face of the New World. Something more than +a triumphant, aggressive Strength was needed to the permanency of a +race; and that something more was represented by poor, weak, +vacillating Hearne, weeping like a woman. + +Horror of the massacre robbed Hearne of all an explorer's exultation. +A day afterward, on July 17, he stood on the shores of the Arctic +Ocean,--the first white man to reach it overland in America. Ice +extended from the mouth of the river as far as eye could see. Not a +sign of land broke the endless reaches of cold steel, where the snow +lay, and icy green, where pools of the ocean cast their reflection on +the sky of the far horizon. At one in the morning, with the sun +hanging above the river to the south, Hearne formally took possession +of the Arctic regions for the Hudson's Bay Company. The same Company +rules those regions to-day. Not an eye had been closed for three days +and nights. Throwing themselves down on the wet shore, the entire band +now slept for six hours. The hunters awakened to find a musk-ox nosing +over the mossed rocks. A shot sent it tumbling over the cliffs. +Whether it was that the moss was too wet for fuel to cook the meat, or +the massacre had brutalized the men into beasts of prey, the Indians +fell on the carcass and devoured it raw.[2] + +[Illustration: Plan of Fort Prince of Wales, from Robson's Drawing, +1733-47.] + +The retreat from the Arctic was made with all swiftness, keeping close +to the Coppermine River. For thirty miles from the sea not a tree was +to be seen. The river was sinuous and narrow, hemmed in by walls of +solid rock, down which streamed cascades and mountain torrents. On +both sides of the high bank extended endless reaches of swamps and +barrens. Twenty miles from the sea Hearne found the copper mines from +which the Indians made their weapons. His guides were to join their +families in the Athabasca country of the southwest, and thither +Matonabbee now led the way at such a terrible pace that moccasins were +worn to shreds and toe-nails torn from the feet of the marchers; and +woe to the man who fell behind, for the wolf pack prowled on the rear. + +When the smoke of moss fires told of the wives' camp, the Indians +halted to take the sweat bath of purification for the cleansing of all +blood guilt from the massacre. Heated stones were thrown into a small +pool. In this each Indian bathed himself, invoking his deity for +freedom from all punishment for the deaths of the slain.[3] By August +the Indians had joined their wives. By October they were on Lake +Athabasca, which had already frozen. Here one of the wives, in the +last stages of consumption, could go no farther. For a band short of +food to halt on the march meant death to all. The Northern wilderness +has its grim unwritten law, inexorable and merciless as death. For +those who fall by the way there is no pity. A whole tribe may not be +exposed to death for the sake of one person. Civilized nations follow +the same principle in their quarantine. Giving the squaw food and a +tent, the Indians left her to meet her last enemy, whether death came +by starvation or cold or the wolf pack. Again and again the abandoned +squaw came up with the marchers, weeping and begging their pity, only +to fall from weakness. But the wilderness has no pity; and so they +left her. + +Christmas of 1771 was passed on Athabasca Lake, the northern lights +rustling overhead with the crackling of a flag. There was food in +plenty; for the Athabasca was rich in buffalo meadows and beaver dams +and moose yards. On the lake shore Hearne found a little cabin, in +which dwelt a solitary woman of the Dog Rib tribe who for eight months +had not seen a soul. Her band had been massacred. She alone escaped +and had lived here in hiding for almost a year. In spring the Indians +of the lake carried their furs to the forts of Hudson Bay. With the +Athabascans went Hearne, reaching Fort Prince of Wales on June 30, +1772, after eighteen months' absence. + +He had discovered Coppermine River, the Arctic Ocean, and the Athabasca +country,--a region in all as large as half European Russia. + +For his achievements Hearne received prompt promotion. Within a year +of his return to the fort, Governor Norton, the Indian bully, fell +deadly ill. In the agony of death throes, he called for his wives. +The great keys to the apartments of the women were taken from his +pillow, and the wives were brought in. Norton lay convulsed with pain. +One of the younger women began to sob. An officer of the garrison took +her hand to comfort her grief. Norton's rolling eyes caught sight of +the innocent conference between the officer and the young wife. With a +roar the dying bully hurled himself up in bed:-- + +"I'll burn you alive! I'll burn you alive," he shrieked. With oaths +on his lips he fell back dead. + +[Illustration: Fort Prince of Wales (Churchill), from Hearne's Account, +1799 Edition.] + +Samuel Hearne became governor of the fort. For ten years nothing +disturbed the calm of his rule. Marie, Norton's daughter, still lived +in the shelter of the fort; the wives found consolation in other +husbands; and Matonabbee continued the ambassador of the company to +strange tribes. One afternoon of August, 1782, the sleepy calm of the +fort was upset by the sentry dashing in breathlessly with news that +three great vessels of war with full-blown sails and carrying many guns +were ploughing straight for Prince of Wales. At sundown the ships +swung at anchor six miles from the fort. From their masts fluttered a +foreign flag--the French ensign. Gig boat and pinnace began sounding +the harbor. Hearne had less than forty men to defend the fort. In the +morning four hundred French troopers lined up on Churchill River, and +the admiral, La Perouse, sent a messenger with demand of surrender. +Hearne did not feel justified in exposing his men to the attack of +three warships carrying from seventy to a hundred guns apiece, and to +assault by land of four hundred troopers. He surrendered without a +blow. + +[Illustration: Beaver Coin of Hudson's Bay Company, melted from Old Tea +Chests, one Coin representing one Beaver.] + +The furs were quickly transferred to the French ships, and the soldiers +were turned loose to loot the fort. The Indians fled, among them Moses +Norton's gentle daughter, now in her twenty-second year. She could not +revert to the loathsome habits of savage life; she dared not go to the +fort filled with lawless foreign soldiers; and she perished of +starvation outside the walls. Matonabbee had been absent when the +French came. He returned to find the fort where he had spent his life +in ruins. The English whom he thought invincible were defeated and +prisoners of war. Hearne, whom the dauntless old chief had led through +untold perils, was a captive. Matonabbee's proud spirit was broken. +The grief was greater than he could bear. All that living stood for +had been lost. Drawing off from observation, Matonabbee blew his +brains out. + + +[1] I have purposely avoided bringing up the dispute as to a mistake of +some few degrees made by Hearne in his calculations--the point really +being finical. + +[2] I am sorry to say that in pioneer border warfares I have heard of +white men acting in a precisely similar beastly manner after some +brutal conflict. To be frank, I know of one case in the early days of +Minnesota fur trade, where the irate fur trader killed and devoured his +weak companion, not from famine, but sheer frenzy of brutalized +passion. Such naked light does wilderness life shed over our +drawing-room philosophies of the triumphantly strong being the highest +type of manhood. + +[3] Again the wilderness plunges us back to the primordial: if man be +but the supreme beast of prey, whence this consciousness of blood guilt +in these unschooled children of the wilds? + + + + +PART IV + +1780-1793 + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES--HOW MACKENZIE + CROSSED THE NORTHERN ROCKIES AND LEWIS + AND CLARK WERE FIRST TO CROSS FROM + MISSOURI TO COLUMBIA + + + + +CHAPTER X + +1780-1793 + +FIRST ACROSS THE ROCKIES + +How Mackenzie found the Great River named after him and then pushed +across the Mountains to the Pacific, forever settling the question of a +Northwest Passage + + +There is an old saying that if a man has the right mettle in him, you +may stick him a thousand leagues in the wilderness on a barren rock and +he will plant pennies and grow dollar bills. In other words, no matter +where or how, success will succeed. No class illustrates this better +than a type that has almost passed away--the old fur traders who were +lords of the wilderness. Cut off from all comfort, from all +encouragement, from all restraint, what set of men ever had fewer +incentives to go up, more temptations to go down? Yet from the fur +traders sprang the pioneer heroes of America. When young Donald Smith +came out--a raw lad--to America, he was packed off to eighteen years' +exile on the desert coast of Labrador. Donald Smith came out of the +wilderness to become the Lord Strathcona of to-day. Sir Alexander +Mackenzie's life presents even more dramatic contrasts. A clerk in a +counting-house at Montreal one year, the next finds him at Detroit +setting out for the backwoods of Michigan to barter with Indians for +furs. Then he is off with a fleet of canoes forty strong for the Upper +Country of forest and wilderness beyond the Great Lakes, where he +fights such a desperate battle with rivals that one of his companions +is murdered, a second lamed, a third wounded. In all this Alexander +Mackenzie was successful while still in the prime of his manhood,--not +more than thirty years of age; and the reward of his success was to be +exiled to the sub-arctics of the Athabasca, six weeks' travel from +another fur post,--not a likely field to play the hero. Yet Mackenzie +emerged from the polar wilderness bearing a name that ranks with +Columbus and Carrier and La Salle. + +[Illustration: Alexander Mackenzie, from a Painting of the Explorer.] + +Far north of the Missouri beyond the borderlands flows the +Saskatchewan. As far north again, beyond the Saskatchewan, flows +another great river, the Athabasca, into Athabasca Lake, on whose blue +shores to the north lies a little white-washed fort of some twenty log +houses, large barn-like stores, a Catholic chapel, an Episcopal +mission, and a biggish residence of pretence for the chief trader. +This is Fort Chipewyan. At certain seasons Indian tepees dot the +surrounding plains; and bronze-faced savages, clad in the ill-fitting +garments of white people, shamble about the stores, or sit haunched +round the shady sides of the log houses, smoking long-stemmed pipes. +These are the Chipewyans come in from their hunting-grounds; but for +the most part the fort seems chiefly populated by regiments of husky +dogs, shaggy-coated, with the sharp nose of the fox, which spend the +long winters in harness coasting the white wilderness, and pass the +summers basking lazily all day long except when the bell rings for fish +time, when half a hundred huskies scramble wildly for the first meat +thrown. + +A century ago Chipewyan was much the same as to-day, except that it lay +on the south side of the lake. Mails came only once in two years +instead of monthly, and rival traders were engaged in the merry game of +slitting each other's throats. All together, it wasn't exactly the +place for ambition to dream; but ambition was there in the person of +Alexander Mackenzie, the young fur trader, dreaming what he hardly +dared hope. Business men fight shy of dreamers; so Mackenzie told his +dreams to no one but his cousin Roderick, whom he pledged to secrecy. +For fifty years the British government had offered a reward of 20,000 +pounds to any one who should discover a Northwest Passage between the +Atlantic and the Pacific. The hope of such a passageway had led many +navigators on bootless voyages; and here was Mackenzie with the same +bee in his bonnet. To the north of Chipewyan he saw a mighty river, +more than a mile wide in places, walled in by great ramparts, and +flowing to unknown seas. To the west he saw another river rolling +through the far mountains. Where did this river come from, and where +did both rivers go? Mackenzie was not the man to leave vital questions +unanswered. He determined to find out; but difficulties lay in the +way. He couldn't leave the Athabascan posts. That was overcome by +getting his cousin Roderick to take charge. The Northwest Fur Company, +which had succeeded the French fur traders of Quebec and Montreal when +Canada passed from the hands of the French to the English, wouldn't +assume any cost or risk for exploring unknown seas. This was more +niggardly than the Hudson's Bay Company, which had paid all cost of +outlay for its explorers; but Mackenzie assumed risk and cost himself. +Then the Indians hesitated to act as guides; so Mackenzie hired guides +when he could, seized them by compulsion when he couldn't hire them, +and went ahead without guides when they escaped. + +[Illustration: Eskimo trading his Pipe, carved from Walrus Tusk, for +the Value of Three Beaver Skins.] + +May--the frog moon--and June--the bird's egg moon--were the festive +seasons at Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabasca. Indian hunters came +tramping in from the Barren Lands with toboggan loads of pelts drawn by +half-wild husky dogs. Woody Crees and Slaves and Chipewyans paddled +across the lake in canoes laden to the gunwales with furs. A world of +white skin tepees sprang up like mushrooms round the fur post. By June +the traders had collected the furs, sorted and shipped them in +flotillas of keel boat, barge, and canoe, east to Lake Superior and +Montreal. On the evening of June 2, 1789, Alexander Mackenzie, chief +trader, had finished the year's trade and sent the furs to the Eastern +warehouses of the Northwest Company, on Lake Superior, at Fort William, +not far from where Radisson had first explored, and La Verendrye +followed. Indians lingered round the fort of the Northern lake engaged +in mad _boissons_, or drinking matches, that used up a winter's +earnings in the spree of a single week. Along the shore lay upturned +canoes, keels red against the blue of the lake, and everywhere in the +dark burned the red fires of the boatmen melting resin to gum the seams +of the canoes; for the canoes were to be launched on a long voyage the +next day. Mackenzie was going to float down with the current of the +Athabasca or Grand River, and find out where that great river emptied +in the North. + +The crew must have spent the night in a last wild spree; for it was +nine in the morning before all hands were ready to embark. In +Mackenzie's large birch canoe went four Canadian _voyageurs_, their +Indian wives, and a German. In other canoes were the Indian hunters +and interpreters, led by "English Chief," who had often been to Hudson +Bay. Few provisions were taken. The men were to hunt, the women to +cook and keep the _voyageurs_ supplied with moccasins, which wore out +at the rate of one pair a day for each man. Traders bound for Slave +Lake followed behind. Only fifty miles were made the first day. +Henceforth Mackenzie embarked his men at three and four in the morning. + +[Illustration: Quill and Bead Work on Buckskin, Mackenzie River +Indians.] + +The mouth of Peace River was passed a mile broad as it pours down from +the west, and the boatmen _portaged_ six rapids the third day, one of +the canoes, steered by a squaw more intent on her sewing than the +paddles, going over the falls with a smash that shivered the bark to +kindling-wood. The woman escaped, as the current caught the canoe, by +leaping into the water and swimming ashore with the aid of a line. Ice +four feet thick clung to the walls of the rampart shores, and this +increased the danger of landing for a _portage_, the Indians whining +out their complaints in exactly the tone of the wailing north wind that +had cradled their lives--"Eduiy, eduiy!--It is hard, white man, it is +hard!" And harder the way became. For nine nights fog lay so heavily +on the river that not a star was seen. This was followed by driving +rain and wind. Mackenzie hoisted a three-foot sail and cut over the +water before the wind with the hiss of a boiling kettle. Though the +sail did the work of the paddles, it gave the _voyageurs_ no respite. +Cramped and rain-soaked, they had to bail out water to keep the canoe +afloat. In this fashion the boats entered Slave Lake, a large body of +water with one horn pointing west, the other east. Out of both horns +led unknown rivers. Which way should Mackenzie go? Low-lying +marshlands--beaver meadows where the wattled houses of the beaver had +stopped up the current of streams till moss overgrew the swamps and the +land became quaking muskeg--lay along the shores of the lake. There +were islands in deep water, where caribou had taken refuge, travelling +over ice in winter for the calves to be safe in summer from wolf pack +and bear. Mackenzie hired a guide from the Slave Indians to pilot the +canoes over the lake; but the man proved useless. Days were wasted +poking through mist and rushes trying to find an outlet to the Grand +River of the North. Finally, English Chief lost his temper and +threatened to kill the Slave Indian unless he succeeded in taking the +canoes out of the lake. The waters presently narrowed to half a mile; +the current began to race with a hiss; sails were hoisted on +fishing-poles; and Mackenzie found himself out of the rushes on the +Grand River to the west of Slave Lake. + +[Illustration: Fort William, Headquarters Northwest Company, Lake +Superior.] + +Here pause was made at a camp of Dog Ribs, who took the bottom from the +courage of Mackenzie's comrades by gruesome predictions that old age +would come upon the _voyageurs_ before they reached salt water. There +were impassable falls ahead. The river flowed through a land of famine +peopled by a monstrous race of hostiles who massacred all Indians from +the South. The effect of these cheerful prophecies was that the Slave +Lake guide refused to go on. English Chief bodily put the recalcitrant +into a canoe and forced him ahead at the end of a paddle. Snow-capped +mountains loomed to the west. The river from Bear Lake was passed, +greenish of hue like the sea, and the Slave Lake guide now feigned such +illness that watch was kept day and night to prevent his escape. The +river now began to wind, with lofty ramparts on each side; and once, at +a sharp bend in the current, Mackenzie looked back to see Slave Lake +Indians following to aid the guide in escaping. After that one of the +white men slept with the fellow each night to prevent desertion; but +during the confusion of a terrific thunder-storm, when tents and +cooking utensils were hurled about their heads, the Slave succeeded in +giving his watchers the slip. Mackenzie promptly stopped at an +encampment of strange Indians, and failing to obtain another guide by +persuasion, seized and hoisted a protesting savage into the big canoe, +and signalled the unwilling captive to point the way. The Indians of +the river were indifferent, if not friendly; but once Mackenzie +discovered a band hiding their women and children as soon as the +boatmen came in view. The unwilling guide was forced ashore, as +interpreter, and gifts pacified all fear. But the incident left its +impression on Mackenzie's comrades. They had now been away from +Chipewyan for forty days. If it took much longer to go back, ice would +imprison them in the polar wilderness. Snow lay drifted in the +valleys, and scarcely any game was seen but fox and grouse. The river +was widening almost to the dimensions of a lake, and when this was +whipped by a north wind the canoes were in peril enough. The four +Canadians besought Mackenzie to return. To return Mackenzie had not +the slightest intention; but he would not tempt mutiny. He promised +that if he did not find the sea within seven days, he would go back. + +That night the sun hung so high above the southern horizon that the men +rose by mistake to embark at twelve o'clock. They did not realize that +they were in the region of midnight sun; but Mackenzie knew and +rejoiced, for he must be near the sea. The next day he was not +surprised to find a deserted Eskimo village. At that sight the +enthusiasm of the others took fire. They were keen to reach the sea, +and imagined that they smelt salt water. In spite of the lakelike +expanse of the river, the current was swift, and the canoes went ahead +at the rate of sixty and seventy miles a day--if it could be called day +when there was no night. Between the 13th and 14th of July the +_voyageurs_ suddenly awakened to find themselves and their baggage +floating in rising water. What had happened to the lake? Their hearts +took a leap; for it was no lake. It was the tide. They had found the +sea. + +How hilariously jubilant were Mackenzie's men, one may guess from the +fact that they chased whales all the next day in their canoes. The +whales dived below, fortunately; for one blow of a finback or sulphur +bottom would have played skittles with the canoes. Coming back from +the whale hunt, triumphant as if they had caught a dozen finbacks, the +men erected a post, engraving on it the date, July 14, 1789, and the +names of all present. + +It had taken six weeks to reach the Arctic. It took eight to return to +Chipewyan, for the course was against stream, in many places tracking +the canoes by a tow-line. The beaver meadows along the shore impeded +the march. Many a time the quaking moss gave way, and the men sank to +mid-waist in water. While skirting close ashore, Mackenzie discovered +the banks of the river to be on fire. The fire was a natural tar bed, +which the Indians said had been burning for centuries and which burns +to-day as when Mackenzie found it. On September 12, with a high sail +up and a driving wind, the canoes cut across Lake Athabasca and reached +the beach of Chipewyan at three in the afternoon, after one hundred and +two days' absence. Mackenzie had not found the Northwest Passage. He +had proved there was no Northwest Passage, and discovered the +Mississippi of the north--Mackenzie River. + +[Illustration: Running a Rapid on Mackenzie River.] + +Mackenzie spent the long winter at Fort Chipewyan; but just as soon as +the rivers cleared of ice, he took passage in the east-bound canoes and +hurried down to the Grand Portage or Fort William on Lake Superior, the +headquarters of the Northwest Company, where he reported his discovery +of Mackenzie River. His report was received with utter indifference. +The company had other matters to think about. It was girding itself +for the life-and-death struggle with its rival, the Hudson's Bay +Company. "My expedition was hardly spoken of, but that is what I +expected," he writes to his cousin. But chagrin did not deter purpose. +He asked the directors' permission to explore that other broad +stream--Peace River--rolling down from the mountains. His request was +granted. Winter saw him on furlough in England, studying astronomy and +surveying for the next expedition. Here he heard much of the Western +Sea--the Pacific--that fired his eagerness. The voyages of Cook and +Hanna and Meares were on everybody's lips. Spain and England and +Russia were each pushing for first possession of the northwest coast. +Mackenzie hurried back to his Company's fort on the banks of Peace +River, where he spent a restless winter waiting for navigation to open. +Doubts of his own ambitions began to trouble him. What if Peace River +did not lead to the west coast at all? What if he were behind some +other discoverer sent out by the Spaniards or the Russians? "I have +been so vexed of late that I cannot sit down to anything steadily," he +confesses in a letter to his cousin. Such a tissue-paper wall +separates the aims of the real hero from those of the fool, that almost +every ambitious man must pass through these periods of self-doubt +before reaching the goal of his hopes. But despondency did not benumb +Mackenzie into apathy, as it has weaker men. + +By April he had shipped the year's furs from the forks of Peace River +to Chipewyan. By May his season's work was done. He was ready to go +up Peace River. A birch canoe thirty feet long, lined with lightest of +cedar, was built. In this were stored pemmican and powder. Alexander +Mackay, a clerk of the company, was chosen as first assistant. Six +Canadian _voyageurs_--two of whom had accompanied Mackenzie to the +Arctic--and two Indian hunters made up the party of ten who stepped +into the canoes at seven in the evening of May 9, 1793. + +Peace River tore down from the mountains flooded with spring thaw. The +crew soon realized that paddles must be bent against the current of a +veritable mill-race; but it was safer going against, than with, such a +current, for unknown dangers could be seen from below instead of above, +where suction would whirl a canoe on the rocks. Keen air foretold the +nearing mountains. In less than a week snow-capped peaks had crowded +the canoe in a narrow canon below a tumbling cascade where the river +was one wild sheet of tossing foam as far as eye could see. The +difficulty was to land; for precipices rose on each side in a wall, +down which rolled enormous boulders and land-slides of loose earth. To +_portage_ goods up these walls was impossible. Fastening an +eighty-foot tow-line to the bow, Mackenzie leaped to the declivity, axe +in hand, cut foothold along the face of the steep cliff to a place +where he could jump to level rock, and then, turning, signalled through +the roar of the rapids for his men to come on. The _voyageurs_ were +paralyzed with fear. They stripped themselves ready to swim if they +missed the jump, then one by one vaulted from foothold to foothold +where Mackenzie had cut till they came to the final jump across water. +Here Mackenzie caught each on his shoulders as the _voyageurs_ leaped. +The tow-line was then passed round trees growing on the edge of the +precipice, and the canoe tracked up the raging cascade. The waves +almost lashed the frail craft to pieces. Once a wave caught her +sideways; the tow-line snapped like a pistol shot, for just one instant +the canoe hung poised, and then the back-wash of an enormous boulder +drove her bow foremost ashore, where the _voyageurs_ regained the +tow-line. + +[Illustration: Slave Lake Indians.] + +The men had not bargained on this kind of work. They bluntly declared +that it was absurd trying to go up canons with such cascades. +Mackenzie paid no heed to the murmurings. He got his crew to the top +of the hill, spread out the best of a regale--including tea sweetened +with sugar--and while the men were stimulating courage by a feast, he +went ahead to reconnoitre the gorge. Windfalls of enormous spruce +trees, with a thickness twice the height of a man, lay on a steep +declivity of sliding rock. Up this climbed Mackenzie, clothes torn to +tatters by devil's club (a thorn bush with spines like needles), boots +hacked to pieces by the sharp rocks, and feet gashed with cuts. The +prospect was not bright. As far as he could see the river was one +succession of cataracts fifty feet wide walled in by stupendous +precipices, down which rolled great boulders, shattering to pebbles as +they fell. The men were right. No canoe could go up that stream. +Mackenzie came back, set his men to repairing the canoe and making axe +handles, to avoid the idleness that breeds mutiny, and sent Mackay +ahead to see how far the rapids extended. Mackay reported that the +_portage_ would be nine miles over the mountain. + +Leading the way, axe in hand, Mackenzie began felling trees so that the +trunks formed an outer railing to prevent a fall down the precipice. +Up this trail they warped the canoe by pulling the tow-line round +stumps, five men going in advance to cut the way, five hauling and +pushing the canoe. In one day progress was three miles. By five in +the afternoon the men were so exhausted that they went to bed--if bare +ground with sky overhead could be called bed. One thing alone +encouraged them: as they rose higher up the mountain side, they saw +that the green edges of the glaciers and the eternal snows projected +over the precipices. They were nearing the summit--they must surely +soon cross the Divide. The air grew colder. For three days the +choppers worked in their blanket coats. When they finally got the +canoe down to the river-bed, it was to see another range of impassable +mountains barring the way westward. All that kept Mackenzie's men from +turning back was that awful _portage_ of nine miles. Nothing ahead +could be worse than what lay behind; so they embarked, following the +south branch where the river forked. The stream was swift as a +cascade. Half the crew walked to lighten the canoe and prevent grazing +on the rocky bottoms. + +Once, at dusk, when walkers and paddlers happened to have camped on +opposite shores, the marchers came dashing across stream, wading +neck-high, with news that they had heard the firearms of Indian +raiders. Fires were put out, muskets loaded, and each man took his +station at the foot of a tree, where all passed a sleepless night. No +hostiles appeared. The noise was probably falling avalanches. And +once when Mackenzie and Mackay had gone ahead with the Indian +interpreters, they came back to find that the canoe had disappeared. +In vain they kindled fires, fired guns, set branches adrift on the +swift current as a signal--no response came from the _voyageurs_. The +boatmen evidently did not wish to be found. What Mackenzie's +suspicions were one may guess. It would be easier for the crew to +float back down Peace River than pull against this terrific current +with more _portages_ over mountains. The Indians became so alarmed +that they wanted to build a raft forthwith and float back to Chipewyan. +The abandoned party had not tasted a bite of food for twenty-four +hours. They had not even seen a grouse, and in their powder horns were +only a few rounds of ammunition. Separating, Mackenzie and his Indian +went up-stream, Mackay and his went down-stream, each agreeing to +signal the other by gunshots if either found the canoe. Barefooted and +drenched in a terrific thunderstorm, Mackenzie wandered on till +darkness shrouded the forest. He had just lain down on a soaking couch +of spruce boughs when the ricochetting echo of a gun set the boulders +crashing down the precipices. Hurrying down-stream, he found Mackay at +the canoe. The crew pretended that a leakage about the keel had caused +delay; but the canoe did not substantiate the excuse. Mackenzie said +nothing; but he never again allowed the crew out of his sight on the +east side of the mountains. + +So far there had been no sign of Indians among the mountains; and now +the canoe was gliding along calm waters when savages suddenly sprang +out of a thicket, brandishing spears. The crew became panic-stricken; +but Mackenzie stepped fearlessly ashore, offered the hostiles presents, +shook hands, and made his camp with them. The savages told him that he +was nearing a _portage_ across the Divide. One of them went with +Mackenzie the next day as guide. The river narrowed to a small +tarn--the source of Peace River; and a short _portage_ over rocky +ground brought the canoe to a second tarn emptying into a river that, +to Mackenzie's disappointment, did not flow west, but south. He had +crossed the Divide, the first white man to cross the continent in the +North; but how could he know whether to follow this stream? It might +lead east to the Saskatchewan. As a matter of fact, he was on the +sources of the Fraser, that winds for countless leagues south through +the mountains before turning westward for the Pacific. + +Full of doubt and misgivings, uncertain whether he had crossed the +Divide at all, Mackenzie ordered the canoe down this river. Snowy +peaks were on every side. Glaciers lay along the mountain tarns, icy +green from the silt of the glacier grinding over rock; and the river +was hemmed in by shadowy canons with roaring cascades that compelled +frequent _portage_. Mackenzie wanted to walk ahead, in order to +lighten the canoe and look out for danger; but fear had got in the +marrow of his men. They thought that he was trying to avoid risks to +which he was exposing them; and they compelled him to embark, vowing, +if they were to perish, he was to perish with them. + +To quiet their fears, Mackenzie embarked with them. Barely had they +pushed out when the canoe was caught by a sucking undercurrent which +the paddlers could not stem--a terrific rip told them that the canoe +had struck--the rapids whirled her sideways and away she went +down-stream--the men jumped out, but the current carried them to such +deep water that they were clinging to the gunwales as best they could +when, with another rip, the stern was torn clean out of the canoe. The +blow sent her swirling--another rock battered the bow out--the keel +flattened like a raft held together only by the bars. Branches hung +overhead. The bowman made a frantic grab at these to stop the rush of +the canoe--he was hoisted clear from his seat and dropped ashore. +Mackenzie jumped out up to his waist in ice-water. The steersman had +yelled for each to save himself; but Mackenzie shouted out a +countermand for every man to hold on to the gunwales. In this fashion +they were all dragged several hundred yards till a whirl sent the wreck +into a shallow eddy. The men got their feet on bottom, and the +wreckage was hauled ashore. During the entire crisis the Indians sat +on top of the canoe, howling with terror. + +All the bullets had been lost. A few were recovered. Powder was +spread out to dry; and the men flatly refused to go one foot farther. +Mackenzie listened to the revolt without a word. He got their clothes +dry and their benumbed limbs warmed over a roaring fire. He fed them +till their spirits had risen. Then he quietly remarked that the +experience would teach them how to run rapids in the future. Men of +the North--to turn back? Such a thing had never been known in the +history of the Northwest Fur Company. It would disgrace them forever. +Think of the honor of conquering disaster. Then he vowed that he would +go ahead, whether the men accompanied him or not. Then he set them to +patching the canoe with oil-cloth and bits of bark; but large sheets of +birch bark are rare in the Rockies; and the patched canoe weighed so +heavily that the men could scarcely carry it. It took them fourteen +hours to make the three-mile _portage_ of these rapids. The Indian +from the mountain tribe had lost heart. Mackenzie and Mackay watched +him by turns at night; but the fellow got away under cover of darkness, +the crew conniving at the escape in order to compel Mackenzie to turn +back. Finally the river wound into a large stream on the west side of +the main range of the Rockies. Mackenzie had crossed the Divide. + +For a week after crossing the Divide, the canoe followed the course of +the river southward. This was not what Mackenzie expected. He sought +a stream flowing directly westward, and was keenly alert for sign of +Indian encampment where he might learn the shortest way to the Western +Sea. Once the smoke of a camp-fire rose through the bordering forest; +but no sooner had Mackenzie's interpreters approached than the savages +fired volley after volley of arrows and swiftly decamped, leaving no +trace of a trail. There was nothing to do but continue down the +devious course of the uncertain river. The current was swift and the +outlook cut off by the towering mountains; but in a bend of the river +they came on an Indian canoe drawn ashore. A savage was just emerging +from a side stream when Mackenzie's men came in view. With a wild +whoop, the fellow made off for the woods; and in a trice the narrow +river was lined with naked warriors, brandishing spears and displaying +the most outrageous hostility. When Mackenzie attempted to land, +arrows hissed past the canoe, which they might have punctured and sunk. +Determined to learn the way westward from these Indians, Mackenzie +tried strategy. He ordered his men to float some distance from the +savages. Then he landed alone on the shore opposite the hostiles, +having sent one of his interpreters by a detour through the woods to +lie in ambush with fusee ready for instant action. Throwing aside +weapons, Mackenzie displayed tempting trinkets. The warriors +conferred, hesitated, jumped in the canoes, and came, backing stern +foremost, toward Mackenzie. He threw out presents. They came ashore +and were presently sitting by his side. + +From them he learned the river he was following ran for "many moons" +through the "shining mountains" before it reached the "midday sun." It +was barred by fearful rapids; but by retracing the way back up the +river, the white men could leave the canoe at a carrying place and go +overland to the salt water in eleven days. From other tribes down the +same river, Mackenzie gathered similar facts. He knew that the stream +was misleading him; but a retrograde movement up such a current would +discourage his men. He had only one month's provisions left. His +ammunition had dwindled to one hundred and fifty bullets and thirty +pounds of shot. Instead of folding his hands in despondency, Mackenzie +resolved to set the future at defiance and go on. From the Indians he +obtained promise of a man to guide him back. Then he frankly laid all +the difficulties before his followers, declaring that he was going on +alone and they need not continue unless they voluntarily decided to do +so. His dogged courage was contagious. The speech was received with +huzzas, and the canoe was headed upstream. + +The Indian guide was to join Mackenzie higher upstream; but the +reappearance of the white men when they had said they would not be back +for "many moons" roused the suspicions of the savages. The shores were +lined with warriors who would receive no explanation that Mackenzie +tried to give in sign language. The canoe began to leak so badly that +the boatmen had to spend half the time bailing out water; and the +_voyageurs_ dared not venture ashore for resin. Along the river cliff +was a little three-cornered hut of thatched clay. Here Mackenzie took +refuge, awaiting the return of the savage who had promised to act as +guide. The three walls protected the rear, but the front of the hut +was exposed to the warriors across the river; and the whites dared not +kindle a fire that might serve as a target. Two nights were passed in +this hazardous shelter, Mackay and Mackenzie alternately lying in their +cloaks on the wet rocks, keeping watch. At midnight of the third day's +siege, a rustling came from the woods to the rear and the boatmen's dog +set up a furious barking. The men were so frightened that they three +times loaded the canoe to desert their leader, but something in the +fearless confidence of the explorer deterred them. As daylight sifted +through the forest, Mackenzie descried a vague object creeping through +the underbrush. A less fearless man would have fired and lost all. +Mackenzie dashed out to find the cause of alarm an old blind man, +almost in convulsions from fear. He had been driven from this river +hut. Mackenzie quieted his terror with food. By signs the old man +explained that the Indians had suspected treachery when the whites +returned so soon; and by signs Mackenzie requested him to guide the +canoe back up the river to the carrying place; but the old creature +went off in such a palsy of fear that he had to be lifted bodily into +the canoe. The situation was saved. The hostiles could not fire +without wounding one of their own people; and the old man could explain +the real reason for Mackenzie's return. Rations had been reduced to +two meals a day. The men were still sulking from the perils of the +siege when the canoe struck a stump that knocked a hole in the keel, +"which," reports Mackenzie, laconically, "gave them all an opportunity +to let loose their discontent without reserve." Camp after camp they +passed, which the old man's explanations pacified, till they at length +came to the carrying place. Here, to the surprise and delight of all, +the guide awaited them. + +[Illustration: Good Hope, Mackenzie River. Hudson's Bay Company Fort.] + +On July 4, provisions were _cached_, the canoe abandoned, and a start +made overland westward, each carrying ninety pounds of provisions +besides musket and pistols. And this burden was borne on the rations +of two scant meals a day. The way was ridgy, steep, and obstructed by +windfalls. At cloud-line, the rocks were slippery as glass from +moisture, and Mackenzie led the way, beating the drip from the branches +as they marched. The record was twelve miles the first day. When it +rained, the shelter was a piece of oil-cloth held up in an extemporized +tent, the men crouching to sleep as best they could. The way was well +beaten and camp was frequently made for the night with strange Indians, +from whom fresh guides were hired; but when he did not camp with the +natives, Mackenzie watched his guide by sleeping with him. Though the +fellow was malodorous from fish oil and infested with vermin, Mackenzie +would spread his cloak in such a way that escape was impossible without +awakening himself. No sentry was kept at night. All hands were too +deadly tired from the day's climb. Once, in the impenetrable gloom of +the midnight forest, Mackenzie was awakened by a plaintive chant in a +kind of unearthly music. A tribe was engaged in religious devotions to +some woodland deity. Totem poles of cedar, carved with the heads of +animals emblematic of family clans, told Mackenzie that he was nearing +the coast tribes. Barefooted, with ankles swollen and clothes torn to +shreds, they had crossed the last range of mountains within two weeks +of leaving the inland river. They now embarked with some natives for +the sea. + +One can guess how Mackenzie's heart thrilled as they swept down the +swift river--six miles an hour--past fishing weirs and Indian camps, +till at last, far out between the mountains, he descried the narrow arm +of the blue, limitless sea. The canoe leaked like a sieve; but what +did that matter? At eight o'clock on the morning of Saturday, July 20, +the river carried them to a wide lagoon, lapped by a tide, with the +seaweed waving for miles along the shore. Morning fog still lay on the +far-billowing ocean. Sea otters tumbled over the slimy rocks with +discordant cries. Gulls darted overhead; and past the canoe dived the +great floundering grampus. There was no mistaking. This was the +sea--the Western Sea, that for three hundred years had baffled all +search overland, and led the world's greatest explorers on a chase of a +will-o'-the-wisp. What Cartier and La Salle and La Verendrye failed to +do, Mackenzie had accomplished. + +But Mackenzie's position was not to be envied. Ten starving men on a +barbarous coast had exactly twenty pounds of pemmican, fifteen of rice, +six of flour. Of ammunition there was scarcely any. Between home and +their leaky canoe lay half a continent of wilderness and mountains. +The next day was spent coasting the cove for a place to take +observations. Canoes of savages met the white men, and one impudent +fellow kept whining out that he had once been shot at by men of +Mackenzie's color. Mackenzie took refuge for the night on an isolated +rock which was barely large enough for his party to gain a foothold. +The savages hung about pestering the boatmen for gifts. Two white men +kept guard, while the rest slept. On Monday, when Mackenzie was +setting up his instruments, his young Indian guide came, foaming at the +mouth from terror, with news that the coast tribes were to attack the +white men by hurling spears at the unsheltered rock. The boatmen lost +their heads and were for instant flight, anywhere, everywhere, in a +leaky canoe that would have foundered a mile out at sea. Mackenzie did +not stir, but ordered fusees primed and the canoe gummed. Mixing up a +pot of vermilion, he painted in large letters on the face of the rock +where they had passed the night:-- + +"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, +one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." + +The canoe was then headed eastward for the homeward trip. Only once +was the explorer in great danger on his return. It was just as the +canoe was leaving tide-water for the river. The young Indian guide led +him full tilt into the village of hostiles that had besieged the rock. +Mackenzie was alone, his men following with the baggage. Barely had he +reached the woods when two savages sprang out, with daggers in hand +ready to strike. Quick as a flash, Mackenzie quietly raised his gun. +They dropped back; but he was surrounded by a horde led by the impudent +chief of the attack on the rock the first night on the sea. One +warrior grasped Mackenzie from behind. In the scuffle hat and cloak +came off; but Mackenzie shook himself free, got his sword out, and +succeeded in holding the shouting rabble at bay till his men came. +Then such was his rage at the indignity that he ordered his followers +in line with loaded fusees, marched to the village, demanded the return +of the hat and cloak, and obtained a peace-offering of fish as well. +The Indians knew the power of firearms, and fell at his feet in +contrition. Mackenzie named this camp Rascal Village. + +At another time his men lost heart so completely over the difficulties +ahead that they threw everything they were carrying into the river. +Mackenzie patiently sat on a stone till they had recovered from their +panic. Then he reasoned and coaxed and dragooned them into the spirit +of courage that at last brought them safely over mountain and through +canon to Peace River. On August 24, a sharp bend in the river showed +them the little home fort which they had left four months before. The +joy of the _voyageurs_ fairly exploded. They beat their paddles on the +canoe, fired off all the ammunition that remained, waved flags, and set +the cliffs ringing with shouts. + +Mackenzie spent the following winter at Chipewyan, despondent and +lonely. "What a situation, starving and alone!" he writes to his +cousin. The hard life was beginning to wear down the dauntless spirit. +"I spend the greater part of my time in vague speculations. . . . In +fact my mind was never at ease, nor could I bend it to my wishes. +Though I am not superstitious, my dreams cause me great annoyance. I +scarcely close my eyes without finding myself in company with the dead." + +The following winter Mackenzie left the West never to return. The +story of his travels was published early in the nineteenth century, and +he was knighted by the English king. The remainder of his life was +spent quietly on an estate in Scotland, where he died in 1820. + +[Illustration: The Mouth of the Mackenzie by the Light of the Midnight +Sun.--C. W. Mathers.] + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +1803-1806 + +LEWIS AND CLARK + +The First White Men to ascend the Missouri to its Sources and descend the +Columbia to the Pacific--Exciting Adventures on the Canons of the +Missouri, the Discovery of the Great Falls and the Yellowstone--Lewis' +Escape from Hostiles + + +The spring of 1904 witnessed the centennial celebration of an area as +large as half the kingdoms of Europe, that has the unique distinction of +having transferred its allegiance to three different flags within +twenty-four hours. + +At the opening of the nineteenth century Spain had ceded all the region +vaguely known as Louisiana back to France, and France had sold the +territory, to the United States; but post-horse and stage of those old +days travelled slowly. News of Spain's cession and France's sale reached +Louisiana almost simultaneously. On March 9, 1804, the Spanish grandees +of St. Louis took down their flag and, to the delight of Louisiana, for +form's sake erected French colors. On March 10, the French flag was +lowered for the emblem that has floated over the Great West ever +since--the stars and stripes. How vast was the new territory acquired, +the eastern states had not the slightest conception. As early as 1792 +Captain Gray, of the ship _Columbia_, from Boston, had blundered into the +harbor of a vast river flowing into the Pacific. What lay between this +river and that other great river on the eastern side of the +mountains--the Missouri? Jefferson had arranged with John Ledyard of +Connecticut, who had been with Captain Cook on the Pacific, to explore +the northwest coast of America by crossing Russia overland; but Russia +had similar designs for herself, and stopped Ledyard on the way. In 1803 +President Jefferson asked Congress for an appropriation to explore the +Northwest by way of the Missouri. Now that the wealth of the West is +beyond the estimate of any figure, it seems almost inconceivable that +there were people little-minded enough to haggle over the price paid for +Louisiana--$15,000,000--and to object to the appropriation required for +its exploration--$2500; but fortunately the world goes ahead in spite of +hagglers. + +May of 1804 saw Captain Meriwether Lewis, formerly secretary to President +Jefferson, and Captain William Clark of Virginia launch out from Wood +River opposite St. Louis, where they had kept their men encamped all +winter on the east side of the Mississippi, waiting until the formal +transfer of Louisiana for the long journey of exploration to the sources +of the Missouri and the Columbia. Their escort consisted of twenty +soldiers, eleven _voyageurs_, and nine frontiersmen. The main craft was +a keel boat fifty-five feet long, of light draft, with square-rigged sail +and twenty-two oars, and tow-line fastened to the mast pole to track the +boat upstream through rapids. An American flag floated from the prow, +and behind the flag the universal types of progress everywhere--goods for +trade and a swivel-gun. Horses were led alongshore for hunting, and two +pirogues--sharp at prow, broad at stern, like a flat-iron or a +turtle--glided to the fore of the keel boat. + +[Illustration: Captain Meriwether Lewis.] + +The Missouri was at flood tide, turbid with crumbling clay banks and +great trees torn out by the roots, from which keel boat and pirogues +sheered safely off. For the first time in history the Missouri resounded +to the Fourth of July guns; and round camp-fire the men danced to the +strains of a _voyageur's_ fiddle. Usually, among forty men is one +traitor, and Liberte must desert on pretence of running back for a knife; +but perhaps the fellow took fright from the wild yarns told by the +lonely-eyed, shaggy-browed, ragged trappers who came floating down the +Platte, down the Osage, down the Missouri, with canoe loads of furs for +St. Louis. These men foregathered with the _voyageurs_ and told only too +true stories of the dangers ahead. Fires kindled on the banks of the +river called neighboring Indians to council. Council Bluffs commemorates +one conference, of which there were many with Iowas and Omahas and +Ricarees and Sioux. Pause was made on the south side of the Missouri to +visit the high mound where Blackbird, chief of the Omahas, was buried +astride his war horse that his spirit might forever watch the French +_voyageurs_ passing up and down the river. + +[Illustration: Captain William Clark.] + +By October the explorers were sixteen hundred miles north of St. Louis, +at the Mandan villages near where Bismarck stands to-day. The Mandans +welcomed the white men; but the neighboring tribes of Ricarees were +insolent. "Had I these white warriors on the upper plains," boasted a +chief to Charles Mackenzie, one of the Northwest Fur Company men from +Canada, "my young men on horseback would finish them as they would so +many wolves; for there are only two sensible men among them, the worker +of iron [blacksmith] and the mender of guns." Four Canadian traders had +already been massacred by this chief. Captain Lewis knew that his +company must winter on the east side of the mountains, and there were a +dozen traders--Hudson Bay and Nor'westers--on the ground practising all +the unscrupulous tricks of rivals, Nor'westers driving off Hudson Bay +horses, Hudson Bay men driving off Nor'-westers', to defeat trade; so +Captain Lewis at once had a fort constructed. It was triangular in +shape, the two converging walls consisting of barracks with a loopholed +bastion at the apex, the base being a high wall of strong pickets where +sentry kept constant guard. Hitherto Captain Lewis had been able to +secure the services of French trappers as interpreters with the Indians; +but the next year he was going where there were no trappers; and now he +luckily engaged an old Nor'wester, Chaboneau, whose Indian wife, +Sacajawea, was a captive from the Snake tribe of the Rockies.[1] On +Christmas morning, the stars and stripes were hoisted above Fort Mandan; +and all that night the men danced hilariously. On New Years of 1805, the +white men visited the Mandan lodges, and one _voyageur_ danced "on his +head" to the uproarious applause of the savages. All winter the men +joined in the buffalo hunts, laying up store of pemmican. In February, +work was begun on the small boats for the ascent of the Missouri. By the +end of March, the river had cleared of ice, and a dozen men were sent +back to St. Louis. + +At five, in the afternoon of April 7, six canoes and two pirogues were +pushed out on the Missouri. Sails were hoisted; a cheer from the +Canadian traders and Indians standing on the shore--and the boats glided +up the Missouri with flags flying from foremost prow. Hitherto Lewis and +Clark had passed over travelled ground. Now they had set sail for the +Unknown. Within a week they had passed the Little Missouri, the height +of land that divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the +Saskatchewan, and the great Yellowstone River, first found by wandering +French trappers and now for the first time explored. The current of the +Missouri grew swifter, the banks steeper, and the use of the tow-line +more frequent. The voyage was no more the holiday trip that it had been +all the way from St. Louis. Hunters were kept on the banks to forage for +game, and once four of them came so suddenly on an open-mouthed, +ferocious old bear that he had turned hunter and they hunted before guns +could be loaded; and the men saved themselves only by jumping twenty feet +over the bank into the river. + +For miles the boats had to be tracked up-stream by the tow-line. The +shore was so steep that it offered no foothold. Men and stones slithered +heterogeneously down the sliding gravel into the water. Moccasins wore +out faster than they could be sewed; and the men's feet were cut by +prickly-pear and rock as if by knives. On Sunday, May 26, when Captain +Lewis was marching to lighten the canoes, he had just climbed to the +summit of a high, broken cliff when there burst on his glad eyes a first +glimpse of the far, white "Shining Mountains" of which the Indians told, +the Rockies, snowy and dazzling in the morning sun. One can guess how +the weather-bronzed, ragged man paused to gaze on the glimmering summits. +Only one other explorer had ever been so far west in this region--young +De la Verendrye, fifty years before; but the Frenchman had been compelled +to turn back without crossing the mountains, and the two Americans were +to assail and conquer what had proved an impassable barrier. The +Missouri had become too deep for poles, too swift for paddles; and the +banks were so precipitous that the men were often poised at dizzy heights +above the river, dragging the tow-line round the edge of rock and crumbly +cliff. Captain Lewis was leading the way one day, crawling along the +face of a rock wall, when he slipped. Only a quick thrust of his +spontoon into the cliff saved him from falling almost a hundred feet. He +had just struck it with terrific force into the rock, where it gave him +firm handhold, when he heard a voice cry, "Good God, Captain, what shall +I do?" + +[Illustration: Tracking Up-stream.] + +Windsor, a frontiersman, had slipped to the very verge of the rock, where +he lay face down with right arm and leg completely over the precipice, +his left hand vainly grabbing empty air for grip of anything that would +hold him back. Captain Lewis was horrified, but kept his presence of +mind; for the man's life hung by a thread. A move, a turn, the slightest +start of alarm to disturb Windsor's balance--and he was lost. Steadying +his voice, Captain Lewis shouted back, "You're in little danger. Stick +your knife in the cliff to hoist yourself up." + +With the leverage of the knife, Windsor succeeded in lifting himself back +to the narrow ledge. Then taking off his moccasins, he crawled along the +cliff to broader foothold. Lewis sent word for the crews to wade the +margin of the river instead of attempting this pass--which they did, +though shore water was breast high and ice cold. + +[Illustration: Typical Mountain Trapper.] + +The Missouri had now become so narrow that it was hard to tell which was +the main river and which a tributary; so Captain Lewis and four men went +in advance to find the true course. Leaving camp at sunrise, Captain +Lewis was crossing a high, bare plain, when he heard the most musical of +all wilderness sounds--the far rushing that is the voice of many waters. +Far above the prairie there shimmered in the morning sun a gigantic plume +of spray. Surely this was the Great Falls of which the Indians told. +Lewis and his men broke into a run across the open for seven miles, the +rush of waters increasing to a deafening roar, the plume of spray to +clouds of foam. Cliffs two hundred feet high shut off the view. Down +these scrambled Lewis, not daring to look away from his feet till safely +at bottom, when he faced about to see the river compressed by sheer +cliffs over which hurled a white cataract in one smooth sheet eighty feet +high. The spray tossed up in a thousand bizarre shapes of wind-driven +clouds. Captain Lewis drew the long sigh of the thing accomplished. He +had found the Great Falls of the Missouri. + +[Illustration: The Discovery of the Great Falls.] + +Seating himself on the rock, he awaited his hunters. That night they +camped under a tree near the falls. Morning showed that the river was +one succession of falls and rapids for eighteen miles. Here was indeed a +stoppage to the progress of the boats. Sending back word to Captain +Clark of the discovery of the falls, Lewis had ascended the course of the +cascades to a high hill when he suddenly encountered a herd of a thousand +buffalo. It was near supper-time. Quick as thought, Lewis fired. What +was his amazement to see a huge bear leap from the furze to pounce on the +wounded quarry; and what was Bruin's amazement to see the unusual +spectacle of a thing as small as a man marching out to contest possession +of that quarry? Man and bear reared up to look at each other. Bear had +been master in these regions from time immemorial. Man or beast--which +was to be master now? Lewis had aimed his weapon to fire again, when he +recollected that it was not loaded; and the bear was coming on too fast +for time to recharge. Captain Lewis was a brave man and a dignified man; +but the plain was bare of tree or brush, and the only safety was +inglorious flight. But if he had to retreat, the captain determined that +he _would_ retreat only at a walk. The rip of tearing claws sounded from +behind, and Lewis looked over his shoulder to see the bear at a hulking +gallop, open-mouthed,--and off they went, explorer and exploited, in a +sprinting match of eighty yards, when the grunting roar of pursuer told +pursued that the bear was gaining. Turning short, Lewis plunged into the +river to mid-waist and faced about with his spontoon at the bear's nose. +A sudden turn is an old trick with all Indian hunters; the bear +floundered back on his haunches, reconsidered the sport of hunting this +new animal, man, and whirled right about for the dead buffalo. + +[Illustration: Fighting a Grizzly.] + +It took the crews from the 15th to the 25th of June to _portage_ past the +Great Falls. Cottonwood trees yielded carriage wheels two feet in +diameter, and the masts of the pirogues made axletrees. On these +wagonettes the canoes were dragged across the _portage_. It was hard, +hot work. Grizzlies prowled round the camp at night, wakening the +exhausted workers. The men actually fell asleep on their feet as they +toiled, and spent half the night double-soling their torn moccasins, for +the cactus already had most of the men limping from festered feet. Yet +not one word of complaint was uttered; and once, when the men were camped +on a green along the _portage_, a _voyageur_ got out his fiddle, and the +sore feet danced, which was more wholesome than moping or poulticing. +The boldness of the grizzlies was now explained. Antelope and buffalo +were carried over the falls. The bears prowled below for the carrion. + +After failure to construct good hide boats, two other craft, twenty-five +and thirty-three feet long, were knocked together, and the crews launched +above the rapids for the far Shining Mountains that lured like a +mariner's beacon. Night and day, when the sun was hot, came the +boom-boom as of artillery from the mountains. The _voyageurs_ thought +this the explosion of stones, but soon learned to recognize the sound of +avalanche and land-slide. The river became narrower, deeper, swifter, as +the explorers approached the mountains. For five miles rocks rose on +each side twelve hundred feet high, sheer as a wall. Into this shadowy +canon, silent as death, crept the boats of the white men, vainly +straining their eyes for glimpse of egress from the watery defile. A +word, a laugh, the snatch of a _voyageur's_ ditty, came back with elfin +echo, as if spirits hung above the dizzy heights spying on the intruders. +Springs and tenuous, wind-blown falls like water threads trickled down +each side of the lofty rocks. The water was so deep that poles did not +touch bottom, and there was not the width of a foot-hold between water +and wall for camping ground. Flags were unfurled from the prows of the +boats to warn marauding Indians on the height above that the _voyageurs_ +were white men, not enemies. Darkness fell on the canon with the great +hushed silence of the mountains; and still the boats must go on and on in +the darkness, for there was no anchorage. Finally, above a small island +in the middle of the river, was found a tiny camping ground with +pine-drift enough for fire-wood. Here they landed in the pitchy dark. +They had entered the Gates of the Rockies on the 19th of July. In the +morning bighorn and mountain goat were seen scrambling along the ledges +above the water. On the 25th the Three Forks of the Missouri were +reached. Here the Indian woman, Sacajawea, recognized the ground and +practically became the guide of the party, advising the two explorers to +follow the south fork or the Jefferson, as that was the stream which her +tribe followed when crossing the mountains to the plains. + +[Illustration: Packer carrying Goods across Portage.] + +It now became absolutely necessary to find mountain Indians who would +supply horses and guide the white men across the Divide. In the hope of +finding the Indian trail, Captain Lewis landed with two men and preceded +the boats. He had not gone five miles when to his sheer delight he saw a +Snake Indian on horseback. Ordering his men to keep back, he advanced +within a mile of the horseman and three times spread his blanket on the +ground as a signal of friendship. The horseman sat motionless as bronze. +Captain Lewis went forward, with trinkets held out to tempt a parley, and +was within a few hundred yards when the savage wheeled and dashed off. +Lewis' men had disobeyed orders and frightened the fellow by advancing. +Deeply chagrined, Lewis hoisted an American flag as sign of friendship +and continued his march. Tracks of horses were followed across a bog, +along what was plainly an Indian road, till the sources of the Missouri +became so narrow that one of the men put a foot on each side and thanked +God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. Stooping, all drank from +the crystal spring whose waters they had traced for three thousand miles +from St. Louis. Following a steep declivity, they were presently +crossing the course of a stream that flowed west and must lead to some +branch of the Columbia. + +[Illustration: Spying on an Enemy's Fort.] + +Suddenly, on the cliff in front, Captain Lewis discovered two squaws, an +Indian, and some dogs. Unfurling his flag, he advanced. The Indians +paused, then dashed for the woods. Lewis tried to tie some presents +round the dogs' necks as a peace-offering, but the curs made off after +their master. The white men had not proceeded a mile before they came to +three squaws, who never moved but bowed their heads to the ground for the +expected blow that would make them captives. Throwing down weapons, +Lewis pulled up his sleeve to show that he was white. Presents allayed +all fear, and the squaws had led him two miles toward their camp when +sixty warriors came galloping at full speed with arrows levelled. The +squaws rushed forward, vociferating and showing their presents. Three +chiefs at once dismounted, and fell on Captain Lewis with such greasy +embraces of welcome that he was glad to end the ceremony. Pipes were +smoked, presents distributed, and the white men conducted to a great +leathern lodge, where Lewis announced his mission and prepared the +Indians for the coming of the main force in the boats. + +[Illustration: Indian Camp at Foothills of Rockies.] + +The Snakes scarcely knew whether to believe the white man's tale. The +Indian camp was short of provisions, and Lewis urged the warriors to come +back up the trail to meet the advancing boats. The braves hesitated. +Cameahwait, the chief, harangued till a dozen warriors mounted their +horses and set out, Lewis and his men each riding behind an Indian. +Captain Clark could advance only slowly, and the Indians with Lewis grew +suspicious as they entered the rocky denies without meeting the +explorers' party. Half the Snakes turned back. Among those that went on +were three women. To demonstrate good faith, Lewis again mounted a horse +behind an Indian, though the bare-back riding over rough ground at a mad +pace was almost jolting his bones apart. A spy came back breathless with +news for the hungry warriors that one of the white hunters had killed a +deer, and the whole company lashed to a breakneck gallop that nearly +finished Lewis, who could only cling for dear life to the Indian's waist. +The poor wretches were so ravenous that they fell on the dead deer and +devoured it raw. It was here that Lewis expected the boats. They were +not to be seen. The Indians grew more distrustful. The chief at once +put fur collars, after the fashion of Indian dress, round the white men's +shoulders. As this was plainly a trick to conceal the whites in case of +treachery on their part, Lewis at once took off his hat and placed it on +the chief's head. Then he hurried the Indians along, lest they should +lose courage completely. To his mortification, Captain Clark did not +appear. To revive the Indians' courage, the white men then passed their +guns across to the Snakes, signalling willingness to suffer death if the +Indians discovered treachery. That night all the Indians hid in the +woods but five, who slept on guard round the whites. If anything had +stopped Clark's advance, Lewis was lost. Though neither knew it, Lewis +and Clark were only four miles apart, Clark, Chaboneau, the guide, and +Sacajawea, the Indian woman, were walking on the shore early in the +morning, when the squaw began to dance with signs of the most extravagant +joy. Looking ahead, Clark saw one of Lewis' men, disguised as an Indian, +leading a company of Snake warriors that the squaw had recognized as her +own people, from whom she had been wrested when a child. The Indians +broke into songs of delight, and Sacajawea, dashing through the crowd, +threw her arms round an Indian woman, sobbing and laughing and exhibiting +all the hysterical delight of a demented creature. Sacajawea and the +woman had been playmates in childhood and had been captured in the same +war; but the Snake woman had escaped, while Sacajawea became a slave and +married the French guide. + +Meanwhile, Captain Clark was being welcomed by Lewis and the chief, +Cameahwait. Sacajawea was called to interpret. Cameahwait rose to +speak. The poor squaw flung herself on him with cries of delight. In +the chief of the Snakes she had recognized her brother. Laced coats, +medals, flags, and trinkets were presented to the Snakes; but though +willing enough to act as guides, the Indians discouraged the explorers +about going on in boats. The western stream was broken for leagues by +terrible rapids walled in with impassable precipices. Boats were +abandoned and horses bought from the Snakes. The white men set their +faces northwestward, the southern trail, usually followed by the Snakes, +leading too much in the direction of the Spanish settlements. Game grew +so scarce that by September the men were without food and a colt was +killed for meat. + +By October the company was reduced to a diet of dog; but the last Divide +had been crossed. Horses were left with an Indian chief of the +Flatheads, and the explorers glided down the Clearwater, leading to the +Columbia, in five canoes and one pilot boat. Great was the joy in camp +on November 8, 1805; for the boats had passed the last _portage_ of the +Columbia. When heavy fog rose, there burst on the eager gaze of the +_voyageurs_ the shining expanse of the Pacific. The shouts of the +jubilant _voyageurs_ mingled with the roar of ocean breakers. Like +Alexander Mackenzie of the far North a decade before, Lewis and Clark had +reached the long-sought Western Sea. They had been first up the +Missouri, first across the middle Rockies, and first down the Columbia to +the Pacific. + +Seven huts, known as Fort Clatsop, were knocked up on the south side of +the Columbia's harbor for winter quarters; and a wretched winter the +little fort spent, beleaguered not by hostiles, but by such inclement +damp that all the men were ill before spring and their very leather suits +rotted from their backs. Many a time, coasting the sea, were they +benighted. Spreading mats on the sand, they slept in the drenching rain. +Unused to ocean waters, the inland voyageurs became deadly seasick. +Once, when all were encamped on the shore, an enormous tidal wave broke +over the camp with a smashing of log-drift that almost crushed the boats. +Nez Perces and Flatheads had assisted the white men after the Snake +guides had turned back. Clatsops and Chinooks were now their neighbors. +Christmas and New Year of 1806 were celebrated by a discharge of +firearms. No boats chanced to touch at the Columbia during the winter. +The time was passed laying up store of elk meat and leather; for the +company was not only starving, but nearly naked. The Pacific had been +reached on November 14, 1805. Fort Clatsop was evacuated on the +afternoon of March 23, 1806. + +The goods left to trade for food and horses when Lewis and Clark departed +from the coast inland had dwindled to what could have been tied in two +handkerchiefs; but necessity proved the mother of invention, and the men +cut the brass buttons from their tattered clothes and vended brass +trinkets to the Indians. The medicine-chest was also sacrificed, every +Indian tribe besieging the two captains for eye-water, fly-blisters, and +other patent wares. The poverty of the white man roused the insolence of +the natives on the return over the mountains. Rocks were rolled down on +the boatmen at the worst _portages_ by aggressive Indians; and once, when +the hungry _voyageurs_ were at a meal of dog meat, an Indian impudently +flung a live pup straight at Captain Lewis' plate. In a trice the pup +was back in the fellow's face; Lewis had seized a weapon; and the +crestfallen aggressor had taken ignominiously to his heels. When they +had crossed the mountains, the forces divided into three parties, two to +go east by the Yellowstone, one under Lewis by the main Missouri. + +Somewhere up the height of land that divides the southern waters of the +Saskatchewan from the northern waters of the Missouri, the tracks of +Minnetaree warriors were found. These were the most murderous raiders of +the plains. Over a swell of the prairie Lewis was startled to see a band +of thirty horses, half of them saddled. The Indians were plainly on the +war-path, for no women were in camp; so Lewis took out his flag and +advanced unfalteringly. An Indian came forward. Lewis and the chief +shook hands, but Lewis now had no presents to pacify hostiles. Camping +with the Minnetarees for the night, as if he feared nothing, Lewis +nevertheless took good care to keep close watch on all movements. He +smoked the pipe of peace with them as late as he dared; and when he +retired to sleep, he had ordered Fields and the other two white men to be +on guard. At sunrise the Indians crowded round the fire, where Fields +had for the moment carelessly laid his rifle. Simultaneously, the +warriors dashed at the weapons of the sleeping white men, while other +Indians made off with the explorers' horses. With a shout, Fields gave +the alarm, and pursuing the thieves, grappled with the Indian who had +stolen his rifle. In the scuffle the Indian was stabbed to the heart. +Drewyer succeeded in wresting back his gun, and Lewis dashed out with his +pistol, shouting for the Indians to leave the horses. The raiders were +mounting to go off at full speed. The white men pursued on foot. Twelve +horses fell behind; but just as the Indians dashed for hiding behind a +cliff, Lewis' strength gave out. He warned them if they did not stop he +would shoot. An Indian turned to fire with one of the stolen weapons, +and instantly Lewis' pistol rang true. The fellow rolled to earth +mortally wounded; but Lewis felt the whiz of a bullet past his own head. +Having captured more horses than they had lost, the white men at once +mounted and rode for their lives through river and slough, sixty miles +without halt; for the Minnetarees would assuredly rally a larger band of +warriors to their aid. A pause of an hour to refresh the horses and a +wilder ride by moonlight put forty more miles between Captain Lewis and +danger. At daylight the men were so sore from the mad pace for +twenty-four hours that they could scarcely stand; but safety depended on +speed and on they went again till they reached the main Missouri, where +by singularly good luck some of the other _voyageurs_ had arrived. + +[Illustration: On Guard.] + +The entire forces were reunited below the Yellowstone on August 12th. +Traders on the way up the Missouri from St. Louis brought first news of +the outer world, and the discoverers were not a little amused to learn +that they had been given up for dead. At the Mandans, Colter, one of the +frontiersmen, asked leave to go back to the wilds; and Chaboneau, with +his dauntless wife, bade the white men farewell. On September 20th +settlers on the river bank above St. Louis were surprised to see thirty +ragged men, with faces bronzed like leather, passing down the river. +Then some one remembered who these worn _voyageurs_ were, and cheers of +welcome made the cliffs of the Missouri ring. On September 23d, at +midday, the boats drew quietly up to the river front of St. Louis. Lewis +and Clark, the greatest pathfinders of the United States, had returned +from the discovery of a new world as large as half Europe, without losing +a single man but Sergeant Floyd, who had died from natural causes a few +months after leaving St. Louis. What Radisson had begun in 1659-1660, +what De la Verendrye had attempted when he found the way barred by the +Rockies--was completed by Lewis and Clark in 1805. It was the last act +in that drama of heroes who carved empire out of wilderness; and all +alike possessed the same hero-qualities--courage and endurance that were +indomitable, the strength that is generated in life-and-death grapple +with naked primordial reality, and that reckless daring which defies life +and death. Those were hero-days; and they produced hero-types, who flung +themselves against the impossible--and conquered it. What they conquered +we have inherited. It is the Great Northwest. + +[Illustration: Indians of the Up-country or _Pays d'en Haut_.] + + + +[1] Mention of this man is to be found in Northwest Company manuscripts, +lately sold in the Masson collection of documents to the Canadian +Archives and McGill College Library. It was also my good fortune--while +this book was going to print--to see the entire family collection of +Clark's letters, owned by Mrs. Julia Clark Voorhis of New York. Among +these letters is one to Chaboneau from Clark. In spite of the cordial +relations between the Nor'westers and Lewis and Clark, these fur traders +cannot conceal their fear that this trip presages the end of the fur +trade. + + + + +APPENDIX + + +For the very excellent translations of the almost untranslatable +transcripts taken from the Marine Archives of Paris, and forwarded to +me by the Canadian Archives, I am indebted to Mr. R. Roy, of the Marine +Department, Ottawa, the eminent authority on French Canadian +genealogical matters. + +Some of the topics in the Appendices are of such a controversial +nature--the whereabouts of the Mascoutins, for instance--that at my +request Mr. Roy made the translation absolutely literal no matter how +incongruous the wording. To those who say Radisson was not on the +Missouri I commend Appendix E, where the tribes of the West are +described. + + + + +APPENDIX A + +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN TO M. COMPORTE BY M. CHOUART, + AT LONDON, THE 29TH APRIL, 1685 + +SIR, + +I have received the two letters with which you have honored me; I have +even received one inclosed that I have not given, for reasons that I +will tell you, God willing, in a few days. + +I have received your instructions contained in the one and the other, +as to the way I should act, and I should not have failed to execute all +that you order me for the service of our Master, if I had been at full +liberty so to do; you must have no doubt about it, because my +inclination and my duty agree perfectly well. All the advantages that +I am offered did not for a moment cause me to waver, but, in short, +sir, I could not go to Paris, and I shall be happy to go and meet you +by the route you travel. I shall be well pleased to find landed the +people you state will be there; in case they may have the commission +you speak of in your two letters, have it accompanied if you please +with a memorandum of what I shall have to do for the service of our +Master. I know of a case whereby I am sufficiently taught that it is +not safe to undertake too many things, however advantageous they may +be, nor undertaking too little. I am convinced, sir, that having +orders, I will carry them out at the risk of my life, and I flatter +myself that you do not doubt it. + +There is much likelihood that the men you sent last year are lost. + +I should like, sir, to be at the place you desire me to go; be assured +I will perish, or be there as soon as I possibly can; it is saying +enough. I do not answer to the rest of your letter, it is sufficient +that I am addressing a sensible man, who, knowing my heart, will not +doubt that I will keep my word with him, as I believe he will do all he +can for my interests. + +I am, with much anxiety to see you, sir, your most humble and most +obedient servant, + +(signed) CHOUART. + +I will leave here only on the 25th of next month. + + + + +APPENDIX B + +COPY OF LETTER WRITTEN BY M. CHOUART TO + MRS. DES GROSEILLERS, HIS MOTHER + +AT LONDON, 11TH APRIL, 1685. + +MY VERY DEAR MOTHER, + +I learn by the letter you have written me, of the 2nd November last, +that my father has returned from France without obtaining anything at +that Court, which made you think of leaving Quebec; my sentiment would +be that you abandon this idea as I am strongly determined to go and be +by you at the first opportunity I get, which shall be, God willing, as +soon as I have taken means to that effect when I have returned from the +North. + +I hope to start on this voyage in a month or six weeks at the latest; I +cannot determine on what date I could be near you; my father may know +what difficulties there are. However, I hope to surmount them, and +there is nothing I would not do to that end. + +The money I left with my cousin is intended to buy you a house, as I +have had always in mind to do, had not my father opposed it, but now I +will do it so as to give you a chance to get on, and always see you in +the country where I will live. + +I have been made, here, proposals of marriage, to which I have not +listened, not being here under the rule of my king nor near my parents, +and I would have left this kingdom had I been given the liberty to do +so, but they hold back on me my pay and the price of my merchandise, +and I cannot sail away as orders have been given to arrest me in case I +should prepare to leave. + +What you fear in reference to my money should not give you any +uneasiness on account of the English. I will cause it to be pretty +well known that I never intended to follow the English. I have been +surprised and forced by my uncle's subterfuges to risk this voyage +being unable to escape the English vessels where my uncle made me go +without disclosing his plan, which he has worked out in bringing me +here, but I will not disclose mine either: to abandon this nation. I +am willing that my cousin should pay you the income on my money, until +I return home. M. the earl of Denonville, your governor, will see to +my mother's affairs, as they who render service to the country will not +be forsaken as in the past, and being generous as he is, loyal and +zealous for his country, he will inform the Court what there is to be +done for the benefit of our nation. + +I am, my dear mother, to my father and to you, + +most obedient servant, + (signed) CHOUART. + +And below is written:-- + +MOTHER, + +I pray you to see on my behalf M. du Lude, and assure him of my very +humble services. I will have the honor of seeing him as soon as I can. +Please do the same with M. Peray and all our good friends. + + + + +APPENDIX C + +COUNCIL + +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, 8th June, 1704. + +By the indians Kiskacous, Ottawa, Sinagot of the Sable Nation, Hurons, +Saulteurs (Sault Indians), Amikoique (Amikoues), Mississaugas, +Nipissings, Miamis and Wolves, in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post; Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +_voyageurs_. + +The one named FORTY SOLS, (40 half-penny), indian chief of the Huron +nation speaks as much on behalf of the said nation as of all those +present at the meeting. + +The French having come, he said:-- + +"We ask that all the French be present at this Council so that they +hear and know what we will say to you. + +"We are well on this land, it is very good, and we are much pleased +with it; listen well, father, we pray you. + +"Mrs de Tonty went away last year; she did not return; we see you going +away to-day, father, with your wife, your children and all the +Frenchwomen as well as that of M. Radisson, who is going down with you; +that reveals to us that you abandon us. + +"We are angry for good and ill-disposed if the women go away. We pray +you to pay attention to this because we could not stop you nor your +young men: we demand that Radisson remains, or at least, that he +returns promptly." + + +BY A NECKLACE (Wampum) + +"We will escort your wife and the other Frenchwomen who intend to go +down to Montreal. Now, mind well what we are asking you. + +"We readily see that the Governor is a liar, as he does not keep to +what he has promised us; as he has lied to us we will lie to him also, +and we will listen no more to his word. + +"What brings that man here (speaking of M. Desnoyers)? We do not know +him and do not understand him; we are ill-disposed. It is two years +since you have been gathering in our peltries, part of which has been +taken down; we will allow nothing to leave until the French come up +with goods." + + +BY ANOTHER NECKLACE + +"Father, we pray you to send back that man (speaking of M. Desnoyers), +because if he remains here, we do not answer for his safety; our people +have told us that he despises our peltries and only wanted beaver; +where does he want us to get it. We absolutely want him to go; nothing +will leave the house where the trading is done and where the peltries +and bundles are, until the French arrive here with merchandise and they +be allowed to trade. When we came here, the Governor did not tell us +that the merchants would be masters over the merchandise; he lied to +us; we ask that all the Frenchmen trade here; we pray you to write and +tell him what we are saying, and if he does not listen to us, we will +also refuse to accept his word. + +"The land is not yours, it is ours, and we will leave it to go where we +like without anybody finding fault. We regret having allowed the +surgeon to leave as we apprehend he will not come back. + +"We pray you will cause to remain Gauvereau the blacksmith and gunsmith. + +"I have nothing more to say, I have spoken for all the nations here +present." + +M. de Lamothe had a question put to the Ottawa and the other nations, +if that was their sentiment; they all answered: Yes, and that they were +of one and the same mind. He told them that, seeing they had taken +time to think over what they had just said, he would consider as to +what he had to answer them, and, put them off to the morrow, after +having accepted their necklace. + +(Not signed.) + + +COUNCIL + +Held at fort Pontchartrain, in lake Erie strait, the 9th June, 1704. + +By the Indians Kiskacous; Ottawas; Sinagotres, the Sable nation; +Hurons; Sauteux (Sault Ste Marie Indians); Amikoique (Beaver nation); +Mississaugas; Miamis and Wolves in the presence of M. de +Lamothe-Cadillac, commanding at the said fort; de Tonty, captain of a +detachment of Marines; the rev F. Constantin, Recollet missionary at +the said post, Messrs Desnoyers and Radisson, principal clerks of the +Company of the Colony, and of all the French, soldiers as well as +_voyageurs_. + +M. de Lamothe addressed all the said nations:-- + +"As you requested me to pay attention to your words, please listen, the +same, to-day. + +"I was aware that Mdme. de Tonty's trip to Montreal last year had given +you umbrage, because she did not come back; and the cause of it is her +pregnancy. + +"I knew also that my wife's setting out for Montreal as also the other +Frenchwomen was causing you uneasiness, because you believed I was +going to abandon you. It is true she was going away, but it was not +for ever. I showed her your necklace; that her children would miss her +very much and that they begged of her to stay. When she heard of your +grief, she accepted your necklace and she will stay for some time, +because she does not like to refuse her children; the other Frenchwomen +will remain also. + +"You spoke ill of the Governor when you said he was a liar. If anyone +told you that he was forsaking you, I will be pleased if you will tell +me who it is. As for me I have no knowledge of it. + +"M. Desnoyers was present when you offered your necklace, and like me +he heard your statement. He told me you were wrong to complain about +him because he would not take your peltries and that he wanted beaver +only; you are complaining inopportunely seeing that he has not done any +trading. You should tell me who made those reports. But as you are +not glad to see him, he has decided to go back, and as I am going down +to Montreal on good business, he will accompany me, and also M. +Radisson, because the Governor wants him, and he must obey, and we will +arrange so that we come back together. + +"You have asked me to write down your speech to the Governor. I will +be the bearer of it. I have not the authority to have the French to +trade here; it is a matter that M. the Governor will settle with M. the +Intendant. + +"The Governor did not lie to you because he did not notify you the +first year, that the merchants would be masters of the merchandise, +because it was the King who sent it here then and I could dispose of +it; since then, an order came from the King in favor of the merchants. + +"This land is mine, because I am the first one who lighted a fire +thereon, and you all took some to light yours. + +"I am very glad that you like this land, and that you find it is good. + +"It is of no consequence that the surgeon left, because when one goes +another comes, and the same applies for the gunsmith. + +"I have no more to tell you. Here is some tobacco that you may all +smoke together, and that it may give you wisdom until I return and the +Governor sends you his word. Attend to your mother during my absence, +and see that she does not want for provisions, for if you do not take +care of her, on my return I will not give you a drink of brandy. + +"M. de Tonty replaces me; I pray you to be on good terms with him." + +FORTY SOLS, chief of the Hurons, spoke for all the indians:-- + +"We remember well, father, of what we said yesterday because you repeat +it to-day. We thank you for having listened to us and granted all we +asked you. We thank the women for not going away, because their +remaining is as if you remained. From to-morrow we will stimulate our +young men to go after provisions for our mother. + +"It is three years ago, when in Montreal at the general meeting our +chiefs died, the governor told us to have courage, that he was sorry +for us, that he saw we were very far to come and get goods in Montreal, +and he invited us to come and settle around you, and that he would send +us merchandise at the same price as in Montreal. This worked well for +two years, but goods rose up too much in price the third year. + +"The first year you came, we were very happy, but now we are naked, not +even having a bad shirt to put on our back. We would be pleased by the +establishment of several stores here, because if we were refused in +one, we could go to another. + +"We are very glad of M. Desnoyers' going back because we do not know +him and we fear some of our young men may be ill-disposed. + +"We were under the impression the Governor had sold us to the merchants +since they are the masters of the commerce. + +"It is true that we took of your fire to light ours but we have waited +two years without anything coming this way so that your land is ours. +I told the same thing to the Governor last year in Montreal. + +"Have courage, father, we will pray God for you during your voyage so +that you may bring back good news." + +(Not signed.) + + + + +APPENDIX D + +Cie des Indes + +(Indies Co'y) + +Renders account to the said company of the death of Mr. Radisson, +receiver at Montreal, of the nomination ad interim of Mr. Gamelin to +fill the vacancy of receiver, of account to render by Mr. Deplessis, +heir of Mr. Radisson to reestablish price of summer beaver as before +ordinance of the 4th January, 1733. + +AT QUEBEC, THE 25TH OCTOBER, 1735. + +GENTLEMEN, + +I have received the letter you did me the honor to send me of the 9th +March last. + +M. Radisson, your receiver at Montreal, died there the 14th of June and +immediately M. Gamelin, merchant, to whom Messrs La Gorgendiere and +Daine had given three years ago, had commissioned to look after your +interests in default or in case of death of M. Radisson, applied to M. +Michel, my sub-delegate to affix the seals on of all your effects, +which was done according to the account rendered you by Messrs. La +Gorgendiere and Daine. + +It was necessary to fill the vacancy. I have appointed temporarily in +virtue of the authority, you gave, gentlemen, the same M. Gamelin; I +thought I could not have your interests in better hands, as much for +his honesty than his intelligence in regulating his sales and his +receipts. Independently of the knowledge he has of the different +qualities of beaver, I have had the honor to speak to you on this +subject in my preceding letters and to say that the only obstacle I +find to giving him the office of receiver at Montreal was his quality +of merchant outfitter for the upper country, which might render him +suspicious to you because of the returns he gets in beaver. Although I +have a pretty good opinion of him to believe his loyalty proof against +any particular interest, you shall see, gentlemen, by the copy of the +commission I have given him, which is sent you, that it is on condition +either directly or indirectly to do no traffic in the upper country, +and to confine himself either to marine trade or other inland commerce, +to which he has agreed, but nevertheless has represented to me that +being engaged as a partner with M. Lamarque, another merchant, for the +working out of the post named "the Western Sea" and that of the Sioux; +this partnership only terminating in 1737; that he was looking around +to sell his share, but, if this thing was impossible requesting me to +kindly allow him to continue until that term, past which he would cease +all commerce in the upper country. I agreed to this arrangement on +account of his good qualities, and this will not turn to any account of +consequence; whatever, selection you may make, gentlemen, you will not +find a better one in this country. + +M. de La Gorgendiere having offered me his son to act as clerk to M. +Gamelin and comptroller in the Montreal office, for the auditing to be +made, without increasing on that score the expenditure of your +administration, I have consented on these conditions; M. Gamelin to +give him 800 livres (shillings) on the commission of one per cent the +company allow the receiver at Montreal, and M. Daine has assured me he +was satisfied with his work. + +I will not entertain, you, messieurs, with the discussion of the +account to be rendered by M. Duplessis, M. Radisson's heir, to your +agent, who claims he owes 5 to 6000 livres. Those discussions did not +take place in my presence. + +Most of the beaver shipped this year were put up in bundles, and +shortage in cotton cloth for packing prevented shipment of the whole. + +The disturbances which have occurred for some years in the upper +country have effectively prevented the Indians from hunting; the post +of the Bay which abounds ordinarily with beaver, produced nothing; +those of Detroit and Michilimakinac, only furnished very little. +Happily the post of the Sioux and of the Western Sea produced near to +100,000 which swelled up the receipt; otherwise it would have been very +middling. + +The party commanded by M. Desnoyelles against the Indians Sakis and +Foxes was not as successful as expected on account of the desertion and +retreat of 100 Hurons and Iroquois who left him when at the Kakanons +(Kiskanons of Michilimakinac?) without his being able to hold them, so +that this officer found himself after a long tramp at those Indians' +fort, not only inferior in numbers but also much in want of provisions. +He was under the necessity of returning after a rather sharp skirmish +which took place between some of his men and the enemy. We lost two +Frenchmen and one of our indians; the Foxes and Sakis lost 21 men, +either killed, wounded or captured. + +If the Sakis come back to the Bay, as they pledged themselves to M. +Desnoyelles we are in hopes here that peace will again flourish and +consequently the trade of the upper country. + +I have seen, gentlemen, what you were pleased to say as to reduction in +price on the summer-beaver. I had been assured by reliable persons +that this reduction might become very injurious to your commerce. I +have learned that some of this kind of beaver were carried to the +English who pay two livres (shillings) for one and at a higher price +than you pay over your counters. It was from what you wrote me in +1732, that the hatters could make no use of that beaver, that at your +request I published an ordinance of the 4th January, 1733, reducing the +price of summer-beaver either green (gras) or dry (sec) to ten pence a +pound, on condition that it should be burned. There could be nothing +suspicious in that. But since you now deem that that reduction may be +harmful, as I have also had in mind to invite the indians and even the +French under this pretence to take the good as well as the bad beaver +to the English; I will restore the price of the summer-beaver as it was +before my ordinance. I will not be at a loss for a cause: it is not in +your interest to give a lower price. You run your commerce, gentlemen, +with too much good faith to give rise to suspicion that you wished for +a reduction in price to 10 pence for this kind of beaver, and having it +burned only to procure it yourself at that price and not burn it. +Besides, the quantity received is too small a matter to deserve +consideration. + +[Sidenote: Beaver hats half worked made in the country.] + +M. the marquis de Beauharnois and I have received the orders of the +King with reference to beaver hats half worked made in Canada. His +Majesty has ordered us to break up the workmen's benches and to prevent +any manufacture of hats. We have made some representations on this +subject, to those made to us, namely by a man named ------, hatter, and +your receiver at Quebec. It is true that the making of beaver hats +half worked and other for export to France could turn out of +consequence in ruining your privilege and the hat establishments in +France. These are the only inconveniences, to my mind, to be feared, +as I do not look upon such, the making of hats for the use of residents +of the country. So that we have satisfied ourselves, until further +orders, to forbid the going, out of the colony, of all kind of hats, as +you will see by the ordinance we have published together, M. the +General and I. If we had been more strict, the three hatters +established in this colony, who know no other business than their +trade, the man ------ amongst others, who follow that calling from +father to son, would have been reduced to begging. + +The quantity of hats they will manufacture when export is stopped, +cannot be of any injury to the manufactures of the kingdom and be but +of small matter to your commerce. Moreover, I am aware that these +hatters employ the worst kind of beaver, which they get very cheap, and +your stores at Paris are that much rid of them. + +[Sidenote: Defects in list of cloth sent.] + +The cloths you sent this year are of better quality than the precedding +shipment. Messrs La Gorgendiere, Daine and Gamelin have observed on +defects which happen in the lists; they told me they would inform you. + +[Sidenote: Remittance of 300 livres (shillings) to the Baron de +Longueuil.] + +I have the honor to thank you, gentlemen, for the remittance of 300 +livres you were pleased to grant to M. the Baron of Longueuil, on my +recommendation. + +It is very difficult to prevent the Indians going to Chouaguen; the +brandy that the English give out freely is an invincible attraction. + +I have heard, the same as you, that some Frenchmen disguised as Indians +had been there; if I can discover some one, you may be sure that I will +deal promptly with them. You may have heard that the man LENOIR, +resident of Montreal, having gone to England three years ago without +leave, I have kept him in prison till he had settled the fine he was +condemned to pay, and which I transferred to the hospitals. I add that +a part of the interest you have in the Indians not going to Chouaguen, +I have another on account of the trading carried on for the benefit of +the King at Niagara and at fort Frontenac which that English post has +ruined. By all means you may rely on my attention to break up English +trade. I fear I may not succeed in this so long as the brandy traffic, +although moderate, will find adversaries among those who govern +consciences. + +[Sidenote: Foreign trade; Beaver at trade at Labrador.] + +I will do my best to prevent the beaver which is traded at Labrador and +the other posts in the lower part of the River to be smuggled to France +by ships from Bayonne, St Malo and Marseille. This will be difficult +as we cannot have at those posts any inspector. I will try, however, +to give an ordinance so as to prevent that, which may intimidate some +of those who carry on that commerce. + +It is true that the commandants of the upper country posts have relaxed +in the sending of the declarations made or to be made by the +_voyageurs_ as to the quantity and quality of the bundles of beaver +they take down to Montreal. M. the General and I have renewed the +necessary orders on this subject so that the commandants shall conform +to them. + +[Sidenote: Asks for continuation of gratuity received by Mr. Michel, +even to increase it.] + +M. Michel, my subdelegate at Montreal has received the bounty of 500 +livres you have requested your agent to pay to him; he hopes that you +will be pleased to have it continued next year. I have the honor to +pray you to do so, and even augment it, if possible. I can assure you, +gentlemen that he lends himself on all occasions to all that may +concern your commerce. As for myself, I am very flattered by the +opinion you entertain that I have at heart your interests. I always +feel a true satisfaction in renewing you these assurances. + +I am, respectfully, + + + +[Sidenote: Thanks for the coffee sent.] + +GENTLEMEN, M. de La Gorgendiere has delivered to me on your behalf, a +bale of Moka coffee. I am very sensible, gentlemen, to this token of +friendship on your part. + +I have the honor to thank you, and to assure you that I am very truly +and respectfully, etc. + +(signed) HOCQUART. + + + + +APPENDIX E + +MEMORANDUM RE CANADA + +(No locality) 1697 + +All the discoveries in America were only made step by step and little +by little, especially those of lands held by the French in that part of +the North. + +It being certain that during the reign of king Francis I, several of +his subjects, amateurs of shipping and of discoveries, in imitation of +the Portuguese and the Spaniards, made the voyage, where they found the +great cod bank. The quality of birds frequenting this sea where they +always find food, caused them to heave the lead, and bottom was found +and the said great bank. + +He got an opinion on the nearest lands, and other curious persons +desired to go farther, and discovered Cape Breton, Virginia and +Florida. Some even inhabited and took possession of the divers places, +abandoned since, through misunderstanding of the commanders and their +poor skill in knowing how to keep on good terms with the indians of +those countries, who, good natured all at the beginning, could not +suffer the rigor with which it was wanted to subjugate them, so that +after a short occupation, they left to return to Europe. And since, +the Spaniards and the English successfully have taken possession of the +land and all the coasts that the said English have kept until this day +to much advantage, so that Frenchmen who have returned since have been +obliged to settle at Cape Breton and Acadia. + +About the year 1540, the said Cape Breton was fortified by Jacques +Carrier, captain of St Malo, who afterward entered the river St. +Lawrence up to 7 or 8 leagues above Quebec, where desiring to know +more, the season also being too far advanced he stopped off to winter +at a small river which bears his name and which forms the boundary of +M. de Becancourt's land whom he knew; he made sociable a number of +Indians who came aboard his ship and brought back beaver pretty +abundantly. + +Since, he made another voyage with Saintonge men which did not prevent +several other ships to go after the said beaver; men from Dieppe, +Brittany and La Rochelle, some with a passport and others by fraud and +piracy, especially the latter, the Civil war having carried away +persons out of dutifulness, the Admiralty and the Marine being then +held in very little consideration, which lasted a long time. + +However, I believe for having heard it said, that the lands after new +discoveries were given since to M. Chabot or to M. Ventadour, where a +certain gentleman from Saintonge named M. du Champlain, had very free +admittance and who may have mingled with those of his country who had +navigated with Carrier and had given him a longing to see that of which +he had only heard speak. + +He was a proper man for such a scheme; a great courage, wisdom, +sensible, pious, fair and of great experience; a robust body which +would render him indefatigable and capable to resist hunger, cold and +heat. + +This gentleman then solicited permission to come to Canada and obtained +it. His small estate and his friends supplied him with a medium sized +vessel for the passage. This new commandant or governor pitied much +the Indians and had the satisfaction at his arrival to see that he was +much feared and loved by them. He took memoranda through his +interpreter of their wars, their mode of living and of their interests. +At that time they were numerous and proud of the great advantages they +had over the Iroquois, their enemy. With this information he recrossed +to France; gave an account of his voyage, and was so charmed with the +land, the climate and of the good which would result from a permanent +establishment that he persuaded his wife to accompany him. His example +induced missionaries of St. Francois and some parisian families to +follow him. He was granted a commission or governor's provisions to +take his living from the country. + +He erected a palissade fort at the place now occupied by the fort St +Louis of Quebec. + +To please the indians he went with them and three Frenchmen only, +warring in the Iroquois country, which has no doubt given rise to our +quarrel with this nation. + +The Commerce was then in the hands of the Rochelois (?) who supplied +some provisions to the said M. de Champlain, a man without interest and +disposed to be content with little. + +He returns to France in the interests of the country and took back +Madam his wife who died in a Ursuline convent, at Saintes, I believe, +and he at Quebec, after having worked hard there, with little help +because of the misfortunes of France. + +M. the Cardinal of Richelieu have inspired France with confidence by +the humiliation of the Rochelois (?) wanted to take care of the marine +and formed at that time, about 1626 or 1627 what was then called the +"Society of One Hundred," in which joined persons of all +qualifications, and also merchants from Dieppe and Rouen. Dieppe was +then reputed for good navigators and for navigation. + +The said M. the Cardinal got granted to the said company the islands of +St Christophe, newly discovered and all the lands of Canada. The +Company composed of divers states did not take long to disjoin, and of +this great Company several were formed by themselves, the ones +concerning themselves about the Isles and the others about Canada, +where they were also divided up in a Company of Miscou, which is an +island of the Bay in the lower part of the River, where all the Indians +meet, and a Company of Tadoussac or Quebec. + +The Basques, Rochelois, Bretons, and Normans, who during the disorders +of the war had commenced secretly on the River, crossed their commerce +much by the continuation of their runs without passport. Sometimes on +pretext of cod or whale fishing, notwithstanding the interdiction of +decrees, the gain made them risk everything, as the two sides of the +river were all settled and many more came down from inland. + +Those Companies for being badly served on account of inexperience and +through poor economy, as will happen at the beginning of all affairs, +were put to large expenses. + +The English had already seized on Boston abandoned by the French after +their new discovery; beaver and elk peltry were much sought after and +at a very high price in Europe; they could be had for a needle, a +hawk-bell or a tin looking-glass, a marked copper coin. Our possession +was there very well-off. The English who made war to us in France, +also made it in Canada, and began to take the fleet about Isle Percee, +as it was ascending to Quebec. + +As four or five vessels came every year loaded with goods for the +Indians, it was at that time quantity of peas, plums, raisins, figs and +others and provisions for M. de Champlain; a garrison of 15 or 20 men; +a store in the lower town where the clerks of the Company lived with 10 +or 12 families already used to the country. This succor failing, much +hardship was endured in a country which then produced nothing by +itself, so that the English presenting themselves the next year with +their fleet, surrender was obligatory; the governor and the Recollets +crossed over to France and the families were treated honestly enough. + +Happily in 1628 or 1629, France made it up with England and the treaty +gave back Canada to the French, when M. de Champlain, returned and died +some years later. + +Those of the Company of 100, who were persons of dignity and +consideration, living in Paris, thought fit to leave the care and +benefits of commerce for Canada with the Rouen and Dieppe merchants, +with whom joined a few from Paris. They were charged with the payment +of the governor's appointments, to furnish him with provisions and +subsistence and to keep up the garrisons of Quebec and Three-Rivers +where there was also a post on account of the large number of Indians +calling; to furnish the things necessary for the war; to pay themselves +off the product and give account of the surplus to the directors of the +Company who had an office at Paris. + +It has been said that Dieppe and Rouen benefitted and that Paris +suffered and was disgusted. + +To M. de Champlain succeeded M. de Montmagny, very wise and very +dignified; knight of Malta; relative of M. de Poinsy, who commanded at +the Island of St Christophe where the said M. de Montmagny died after +leaving Canada after a sojourn of 14 or 15 years, loved and cherished +by the French and the natives--we say the French, although the +complaints made against him by the principals were the cause of his +sorrow and he resigned voluntarily. + +It is to be remarked that all the commerce was done at Rouen to go out +through Dieppe on the hearsay and the fine connections that the Jesuit +Fathers who had taken the Recollets' place, took great care to have +printed and distributed every year. + +Canada was in vogue and several families from Normandy and the Perche +took sail to come and reside in it; there were nobles, the most of them +poor, we might say, who found out from the first, that M. de Montmagny +was too disinterested to be willing to consider the change they desired +for their advantage. They intrigued against him five or six families +without the participation of the others, got leave from him to go to +France to ask for favors and there had one of themselves as governor; +obtained liberty in the beaver trade, which until then had been +strictly forbidden to the inhabitants who had been reserved the fruits +of the country to advance the culture of the land such as pease, Indian +corn, and wheat bread. That was the first title of the inhabitants to +trade with the indians. + +To arrive at that end they promised to pay annually 1000 beaver to the +Paris office for its seignorial right which it did not receive through +its attention and management of its affairs. + +They got permission to form a Board from their principal men, to +transact with the governor all matters in the country for peace, for +war, the settlement of accounts of their society or little republic, +and also sitting on cases concerning interests of private individuals. + +It was then that to keep up this sham republic or society, a tax of +one-fourth was imposed on the export of beaver. + +By these means the authority of the Company and its store were ruined +and the whole was turning to the advantage of those four or six +families, the others, either poor or slighted by the authority of M. +D'Ailleboust, their governor. + +On this footing it was not hard for them to find large credit at La +Rochelle, because loans were made in the name of the Community, +although it consisted only of these four or six families; which from +their being poor found themselves in large managements enlarged their +household, ran into expense, that of their vessels and shipments was +excessive and the wealth derived from the beaver was to pay all. + +Their bad management altered their credit and brought them to agree, +after several years' enjoyment so as not to pay La Rochelle, to take +their ships to Havre-de-Grace, where, on arrival they sold to Messrs +Lick and Tabac; this perfidy which they excused because of the large +interest taken from them, alarmed La Rochelle who complained to Paris, +and after much pressing a trustee was appointed to give bonds in the +name of the society for large sums yet due to the city of La Rochelle. + +Their vessels all bore off to Normandy; they took on their cargoes +there in part, and part at La Rochelle, the trade having been allowed +those two places, because Rouen and Dieppe had several persons on the +roll of the Company and obligation was due La Rochelle for having +loaned property. + +The governor and the families addressed reproaches to each other, and +the King being pleased to listen to them, had the kindness to appoint +from the body of the company persons of first dignity to give attention +to what was going on in this colony, who were called Commissioners; +they were Messrs de Morangis, de la Marguerid, Verthamont and Chame, +and since, Messrs de Lamoignon, de Boucherat and de Lauzon, the latter +also of the body of the Company offered to pass over to this country to +arrange the difficulties, and he asked for its government, which was +accorded him. + +He embarked at La Rochelle because of the obligation of the creditors +of that city to treat him gently; Rouen did not care much. He was a +literary man; he made friends with the R. F. Jesuits, and created a new +council in virtue of the powers he had brought, rebuke the one and the +other place, even the inhabitants, in forbidding them to barter in what +was called the limits of Tadoussac, which he bounded for a particular +lease as a security for his payment and of what has always since been +called the offices of the country or the state of the 33,000 livres; +the emoluments of the Councillors, the garrison, the Jesuits, the +Parish, the Ursulines, the Hote-Dieu, etc. + +The pretext given was that the Iroquois having burned and ruined the +Hurons or Ottawa, the tax of one-fourth did not produce enough to meet +those demands, and because Tadoussac also was not sufficient to meet +all the expenditure contemplated to give war to the Iroquois, he it was +also who began in not paying the thousand weight in beaver owing for +seignorial right to the Company who was irritated and blamed his +conduct, and after the lapse of some years his friends write him they +could not longer shield him he anticipated his recall in returning to +France, where he has since served as sub-dean of the Council, residing +at the cloister of Notre-Dame with his son, canon at the said church. + +I only saw him two years in Canada where he was hardly liked, by reason +of the little care he took to keep up his rank, without servant, living +on pork and peas like an artisan or a peasant. + +However, having decided to go back, for a second time he threw open the +Tadoussac trade, by an order of his Council. + +M. de Lamoignon, the first president, got named to replace him, M. +D'Argenson, young man of 30 to 32 years steady as could be, who +remained four or five years to the satisfaction of everybody; he kept +up the Council as it is intended for the security of his emoluments and +of the garrison, selected twelve of the most notable persons to whom he +gave the faculty of trading at Tadoussac and all the sureties to be +wished for the administration and maintenance. + +He had the misfortune to fall out with the Jesuit Fathers, and they, +with messieurs de Mont Royal, of St Sulpice who had sent Mr the abbey +de Queysac, in the hope of making a bishop of him; the former wishing +to have one of their nomination presented to the Queen-mother of the +reigning King, whom God preserve, M. de Laval, to-day elder and first +bishop, who, very rigid, not only backed the Jesuits against the +governor in all difficulties but specially in the matter of the liquor +traffic with the indians. Although (D'Argenson) a much God-fearing-man +he had his private opinions, and this offended him; he asked M. de +Lamoignon for his recall, which was done in 1661, when M. d'Avaugour +came out. + +It was in 1660 that the Office in Paris, at the request of the +governor, of the Local council and on the advice of Messrs de +Lamoignon, Chame and other commissioners made an agreement with the +Rouen merchants to supply the inhabitants with all goods they would +require with 60% profit on dry goods and 100% on liquors, freight paid. + +It was pretended that the country was not safely secured by ships of +private parties, and that when they arrived alone by unforeseen +accidents, they happened unexpectedly, to the ruin of the country; as +well as the beaver fallen to a low price and which was restored only at +the marriage of the king should keep up. + +The creditors then pressing payment of their claims, a decree ordered +that of the 60%, 10% should be taken for the payment of debts which +were fixed at 10,000 livres at the rate of the consumption of the time +and of which the Company of Normandy took charge. The country was +favorable enough to this treaty because they were well served, but when +the treaty arrived at first, the bishop who was jealous because he had +not been consulted and that some little gratification had been given to +facilitate matters had it opposed by some of the inhabitants and by M. +D'Avaugour, governor in the place of the said D'Argenson. + +The Society of Normandy consented to the breaking off of the treaty on +receiving a minute account and being paid some compensation, as to +which they had no satisfaction because of the changes, for M. +D'Avaugour, like the others, fell out with the Bishop who went to +France and had him revoked, presenting in his stead M. de Mezy, a +Norman gentleman who did nothing better than to overdo all the +difficulties arising on the question of the Bishop and the Governor's +powers. + +The beaver dropped down, as soon, to a low price, and there was a +difference by half when the King in 1664 formed the Company of the West +Indies, which alone, to the exclusion of all others, had to supply the +country with merchandise and receive also all the beaver; in 1669, came +M. de Tracy, de Courcelles and Talon; the latter did not want any +Company and employed all kinds of ways to ruin the one he found +established. He gave to understand to M. Colbert that this country was +too big to be bounded; that there should come out of it fleets and +armies; his plans appeared too broad, still he met with no +contradiction at first, on the contrary he was lauded, which moved him +to establish a large trade and put out that of the company, which +through bad success in its affairs at the Isles, was relaxing enough of +itself in all sorts of undertakings. + +M. Talon desiring to bring together the government and the +superintendence was spending on a large scale to make friends and +therefore there was not a merchant when the Company quit who could +transact any business in his presence; he gets his goods free of dues, +freight and insurance; he also refused to pay the import tax on his +wines, liquors and tobacco. + +Finally his friends or enemies told him aloud that it was of profits of +his commerce that the King would be enriched. + +They fell out, M. de Courcelles and he; their misunderstanding forced +the first to ask for his discharge. M. de Frontenac, who succeeded him +also complained and I believe he returned to France without his conge +whence he never came back although he had promised so to all his +friends. + +You are aware as well as and perhaps better than I of the disputes of +M. de Frontenac and M. du Chesneau. + +And that is all I have been told for my satisfaction of what occurred +previous to 1655 when I came here to attend to the affairs of the Rouen +Company. + +I have also learned at the time of my arrival that properly speaking, +though there were a very large number of Indians, known under divers +names, which they bear with reference to certain action that their +chiefs had performed or with reference to lakes, rivers, lands or +mountains which they inhabit, or sometimes to animals stocking their +rivers and forests, nevertheless they could all be comprised under two +mother languages, to wit: the Huron and the Algonquin. + +At that period, I was told, the Huron was the most spread over men and +territory, and at present, I believe, that the Algonquin can well be +compared to it. + +To note, that all the Indians of the Algonquin language are stationed +and occupy land that we call land of the North on account of the River +which divides the country into two parts, and where they all live by +fishing and hunting. + +As well as the Indians of the Huron language who inhabit land to the +South, where they till the land and winter wheat, horse-beans, pease, +and other similar seeds to subsist; they are sedentary and the +Algonquin follow fish and game. + +However, this nation has always passed for the noblest, proudest and +hardest to manage when prosperous. When the French came here the true +Algonquin owned land from Tadoussac to Quebec, and I have always +thought they were issued from the Saguenay. It was a tradition that +they had expelled the Iroquois from the said place of Quebec and +neighborhood where they once lived; we were shown the sites of their +villages and towns covered by trees of a fresh growth, and now that the +lands are of value through cultivation, the farmers find thereon tools, +axes and knives as they were used to make them. + +We must believe that the said Algonquin were really masters over the +said Iroquois, because they obliged them to move away so far. + +Nobody could tell me anything certain about the origin of their war but +it was of a more cruel nature between these two nations than between +the said Iroquois and Hurons, who have the same language or nearly so. + +It is only known that the Iroquois commenced first to burn, importuned +by their enemies who came to break their heads whilst at work in their +wilderness; they imagined that such cruel treatment would give them +relaxation, and since, all the nations of this continent have used +fire, with the exception of the Abenakis and other tribes of Virginia. + +These Iroquois having had the best of the fight and reduced the +Algonquins since our discovery of this country, principally because +their pride giving us apprehension about their large number, they would +not arm themselves until a long time after the Dutch had armed the +Iroquois, made war and ruined all the other nations who were not nearly +so warlike as the Algonquin, and after the war, diseases came on that +killed those remaining; some have scattered in the woods, but in +comparison to what I have seen on my arrival, one might say that there +are no more men in this country outside of the fastnesses of the +forests recently discovered. + +The Hurons before their defeat by the Iroquois had, through the hope of +their conversion obliged the Jesuits to establish with them a strong +mission, and as from time to time it was necessary to carry to them +necessities of life, the governors began to allow some of their +servants to run up there every three or four years, from where they +brought that good green (gras) Huron beaver that the hatters seek for +so much. + +Sometimes this was kept up; sometimes no one offered for the voyage +there being then so little greediness it is true that the Iroquois were +so feared; M. de Lauson was the only one to send two individuals in +1656 who each secured 14 to 15,000 livres and came back with an indian +fleet worth 100,000 crowns. However, M. D'Argenson who succeeded him +and was five years in the country sent nobody neither did Messrs +Avaugour and de Mezy. + +It was consequently after the arrival of M. Talon that under pretext of +discovery, and of finding copper mines, he alone became director of +those voyages, for he obliged M. de Courcelles to sign him conges which +he got worked, but on a dispute between the workers he handled some +himself, of which I remember. + +You know the number and the regulations given under the first +administration of M. the Earl of Frontenac. + +It is certain that it is the holders of conges who look after and bring +down the beaver, and, can it be said that it is wrong to have an +abundance of goods. + +The French and the Indians have come down this year; the receipts of +the office must total up 200 millions or thereabouts, which judging +from your letter, will surprise those gentlemen very much. The clerks +have rejected it as much as they liked; I am told that they admitted +somewhere about six thousands of muscovy; during our administration +there were 28 or 30 thousands received, which is a large difference +without taking into account other qualities, and all this does not give +the French much trouble, and at the most for the year we were not +informed. I have given my sentiments to the meeting, and in particular +to M. de Frontenac and to M. de Champigny. + +We should be agreeable to our Prince's wishes who is doing so much good +to this country: his tenants who must supply him in such troubled +times, lose, and it is proper that people in Canada contribute +something to compensate them by freely agreeing to a pretty rich +receipt on their commodity but what resource in regard to the indian so +interested that everything moves with him, through necessity; they are +asked and sought after to receive English goods, infinitely better than +ours, at a cost half as low and to pay their beaver very high. + +This commercial communication gives them peace with their enemies and +liberty to hunt, and consequently to live in abundance instead of their +living at present with great hardship. Should we not say that it +requires a great affection not to break away in the face of such strong +attractions; if we lose them once we lose them for ever, that it is +certain, and from friends they become our enemies; thus we lose not +only the beaver but the colony, and absolutely no more cattle, no more +grains, no more fishing. + +The colony with all the forces of the Kingdom cannot resist the Indians +when they have the English or other Europeans to supply them with +ammunitions of war, which leads me to the query: what is the beaver +worth to the English that they seek to get it by all means? + +If also the rumors set agoing are true the farmers-general would not +sell a considerable part to the Danes at a very high price, should they +not have had somebody in their employ who understands and knows that +article well, it appears to me that the thing is worth while. + +All the same, people are asking why they want to sell so dear, what +costs them so little, for taking one and the other, that going out this +year should not cost them more than 50s (_sous_), the entries, +Tadoussac, and the tax of one fourth, does it not pay the lease with +profit. This is in everybody's mind, and everyone looks at it as he +fancies. + +I was of opinion to arrange the receipts on a basis that these +gentlemen got M. Benac to offer, so as to avoid the difficulties on the +qualities, and this opinion served to examine the loss this proposition +would bring to the country in the general receipt. + +I have no other interest than the Prince's service, and to please these +gentlemen I should like to know, heartily, of some expedient, because +it is absolutely necessary to find one to satisfy the Indian; M. the +Earl of Frontenac is under a delusion: I may say it, they will give us +the goby, and after that all shall be lost, I am not sure even, if they +would not repeat the Sicilian Vespers, to show their good will, and +that they never want to make it up. I am so isolated that I do not say +anything about it, as I am afraid for myself, but I know well that it +is Indian's nature to betray, and that our affairs are not at all good +in the upper country. + +To a great evil great remedy. I had said to M. de Frontenac that the +25 per cent could be abolished and make it up on something else, as it +is a question of saving the country, but he did not deem fit of +anything being said about it. + +I also told him and M. de Champigny that we might treat with a Dutchman +to bring on a clearance English and Dutch goods which are much thought +of by our indians for their good quality and their price, that this +vessel would not go up the river but stay below at a stated place, +where we could go for his goods, and give him beaver for his rightful +lading. + +The company should have the control of these merchandise, so as to sell +them to the indians on the base of a tariff, so as to prevent the +greediness of the _voyageurs_ which contributes very much to the +discontent of the natives, because at first the French only went to the +Hurons and since to Michilimakinac where they sold to the Indians of +the locality, who then went to exchange with other indians in distant +woods, lands and rivers, but now the said Frenchmen holding permits to +have a larger gain pass over all the Ottawas and Indians of +Michilimakinac to go themselves and find the most distant tribes which +displeased the former very much. + +This has led to fine discoveries and four or five hundred young men of +Canada's best men are employed at this business. + +Through them we have become acquainted with several Indian's names we +knew not, and 4 and 500 leagues farther away, there are other indians +unknown to us. + +Down the Gulf in French Acadia, we have always known the Abenakis and +Micmacs. + +On the north shore of the River, from Seven islands up we have always +known the Papinachois, Montagnais, Poissons Blancs, (White Fish), +(these being in what is called limits of Tadoussac), Mistassinis, +Algonquins. + + +AT QUEBEC + +There are Hurons, remains of the ancient Hurons, defeated by the +Iroquois, in Lake Huron. + +There is also south of the Chaudiere (River), five leagues from Quebec, +a large village of Christian Abenakis. + +The Hurons & Abenakis are under the Jesuit Fathers. + +These Hurons have staid at Quebec so as to pray God more conveniently +and without fear of the Iroquois. + +The Abenakis pray God with more fervor than any Indians of these +countries. I have seen and been twice with them when warring; they +must have faith to believe as they do and their exactitude to live well +according to principles of our religion. Blessed be God! They are +very good men at war and those who have give and still give so much +trouble to the Bostoners. + + +AT THREE-RIVERS + +Wolves and Algonquins both sides of the river. + + +AT MONTROYAL OR VILLE-MARIE + +There are Iroquois of the five nations who have left their home to pray +(everyone is free to believe) but it is certain that threefourths have +no other motive nor interest to stay with us than to pray. + +There are, then, Senecas, Mohawks, Cayugas, Wyandotts, Oneida partly on +the mountain of Mont-Royal under the direction of Messrs of St Sulpice, +and partly at the Sault (Recollet) south side, that is to say, above +the rapids, under the R. F. Jesuits, whose mission is larger than St +Sulpice's. + +150 leagues from Mont Royal the Grand River leading to the Ottawas; to +the north are the Temiscamingues, Abitiby, Outanloubys, who speak +Algonquin. + +At lake Nepissing, the Nipissiniens, Algonquin language, always going +up the Grand River. + +In lake Huron, 200 leagues from Montreal, the Mississagues and +Amikoues: Algonquins. + +At Michilimackinac, the Negoaschendaching or people of the Sable, +Ottawas, Linage Kikacons or Cut Tail, the men from Forked Lake +Onnasaccoctois, the Hurons, in all 1000 men or thereabouts half Huron +and half Algonquin language. + +In the Michigan or lake Illinois, north side, the Noquets, Algonquins, +Malomini (Menomeenee), or men of the Folle-Avoine: different language. + + +SOUTH OF PUANTS (GREEN) BAY + +The Wanebagoes otherwise Puans, because of the name of the Bay; +language different from the two others. + +The Sakis, 3 leagues from the Bay, and Pottewatamis, about 200 warriors. + +Towards lake Illinois, on River St Joseph, the Miamis or men of the +Crane who have three different languages, though they live together. +United they would form about 600 men. + +Above the Bay, on Fox river, the Ottagamis, the Mascoutins and the +Kicapoos: all together 1200 men. + +At Maramegue river where is situated Nicholas Perrot's post, are some +more Miamis numbering five to six hundred; always the same language. + +The Illinois midway on the Illinois river making 5 to 6 different +villages, making in all 2000 men. + +We traffic with all these nations who are all at war with the Iroquois. +In the lower Missipy there are several other nations very numerous with +whom we have no commerce and who are trading yet with nobody. + +Above Missoury river which is of the Mississippi below the river +Illinois, to the south, there are the Mascoutins Nadoessioux, with whom +we trade, and who are numerous. + +Sixty leagues above the missisipi and St Anthony of Padua Fall, there +is lake Issaquy otherwise lake of Buade, where there are 23 villages of +Sioux Nadoessioux who are called Issaquy, and beyond lake Oettatous, +lower down the auctoustous, who are Sioux, and could muster together +4000 warriors. Because of their remoteness they only know the Iroquois +from what they heard the French say. + +In lake Superior, south side are the saulteurs who are called Ouchijoe +(objibway), Macomili, Ouxcinacomigo, Mixmac and living at Chagoumigon, +it is the name of the country, the Malanas or men of the Cat-fish; 60 +men; always the Algonquin language. + +Michipicoten, name of the land; the Machacoutiby and Opendachiliny, +otherwise Dung-heads; lands' men; algonquin language. The Picy is the +name of a land of men, way inland, who come to trade. + +Bagoasche, also name of a place of men of same nation who come also to +trade 200 and 300 men. + +Osepisagny river being discharge of lake Asemipigon; sometimes the +indians of the lake come to trade; they are called Kristinos and the +nation of the Great Rat. These men are Algonquins, numbering more than +2000, and also go to trade with the English of the north. + +There are too the Chichigoe who come sometimes to us, sometimes north +to the English. + +Towards West-Northwest, it is nations called Fir-trees; numerous; all +their traffic is with the English. + +All those north nations are rovers, as was said, living on fish and +game or wild-oats which is abundant on the shores of their lakes and +rivers. + +In lake Ontario, south side, the five Iroquois nations; our enemies; +about 1200 warriors live on indian corn and by hunting. + +We can say, that, of all the Indians they are the most cruel during +war, as during peace they are the most humane, hospitable, and +sociable; they are sensible at their meetings, and their behaviour +resembles much to the manners of republics of Europe. + +Lake Ontario has 200 leagues in circumference. + +Lake Erie above Niagara 250 leagues; lakes Huron and Michigan joined +552 leagues: to have access to these three lakes by boat, there is only +the portage of Niagara, of two leagues, above the said lake Ontario. + +All those who have been through those lakes say they are terrestrial +paradises for abundance of venison, game, fishing, and good quality of +the land. + +From the said lakes to go to lake Superior there is only one portage of +15 (?). The said lake is 500 leagues long in a straight line, from +point to point, without going around coves nor the bays of Michipicoten +and Kaministiquia. + +To go from lake Superior to lake Asemipigon there is only 15 leagues to +travel, in which happen seven portages averaging 3 good leagues; the +said lake has a circumference of 280 leagues. + +From lake Huron to lake Nipissing there is the river called French +River, 25 leagues long; there are 3 portages; the said lake has 60 to +80 leagues of circumference. + +Lake Assiniboel is larger than lake Superior, and an infinity of +others, lesser and greater have to be discovered, for which I approve +of M. the Marquis of Denonville's saying, often repeated:--that the +King of France, our monarch was not high lord enough to open up such a +vast country, as we are only beginning to enter on the confines of the +immensity of such a great country. + +The road to enter it is by the Grand River and lake Ontario by Niagara, +which should be easy in peaceful times in establishing families at +Niagara for the portage, and building boats on Lake Erie. I did not +find that a difficult thing, and I want to do it under M. the Marquis +of Denonville, who did not care, so soon as he perceived that his war +expedition had not succeeded. + +I have given you in this memorandum the names of the natives known to +us and with whom our wood rovers (coureurs de bois) have traded; my +information comes from some of the most experienced. + +The surplus of the memorandum will serve to inform you that prior to M. +de Tracy, de Courcelle and Talon's arrival, nothing was regulated but +by the governor's will, although there was a Board; as they were his +appointments and that by appearances, only his creatures got in, he was +the absolute master of it and which was the cause that the Colony and +the inhabitants suffered very much at the beginning. + +M. de Tracy on his arrival by virtue of his commission dismissed the +Board and the Councillors, to appoint another one with members chosen +by himself and the Bishop, which existed until the 2nd and 3rd year of +M. de Frontenac's reign, who had them granted at Court, provisions by a +decree for the establishment of the Council. + +It is only from that time that the King having given the country over +to the gentlemen of the Co'y of West Indies, the tax of one fourth and +the Tadoussac trade were looked upon as belonging to the Company, and +since to the King, because M. Talon, who crippled as much as he could, +this company dare not touch to these two items of the Domain, of which +the enjoyment remained to them until cessation of their lease. + +So, it was in favor of this company that all the regulations were +granted in reference to the limits and working out of Tadoussac as well +as to prevent cheating on the beaver tax. + +Tadoussac is leased to six gentlemen for the sum of ---- yearly; I took +shares for one fourth, as it was an occasion to dispose of some goods +and a profit to everyone of at most 20 ---- yearly. + +About beavers there is no fraud to be feared, everybody preferring to +get letters of exchange to avoid the great difficulties on going out, +the entry and sale in France, and of large premiums for the risks; in a +word, no one defrauds nor thinks of it. The office is not large enough +to receive all the beaver. + +The ships came in very late; I could not get M. Dumenu the secretary to +the Board to send you the regulations you ask for the beaver trade; you +shall have them, next year, if it pleases God. They contain +prohibition to embark from France under a penalty of 3000 livres' fine, +confiscation of the goods, even of the ships; however, under the treaty +of Normandy, I had a Dieppe captain seized for about 200 crowns worth +of beaver, and the Council here confiscated the vessel, and imposed a +fine of 1500 livres, on which the captain appealed to France, and he +obtained at the King's Council, replevin on his ship and the fine was +reduced to 30 livres. + +As prior to M. Talon nobody sent traders in the woods as explained in +this memorandum there was not to my knowledge any regulation as to the +said woods before the decree of 1675. On the contrary I remember that +those two individuals under M. de Lauzon's government who brought in +each for 14. or 15,000 livres applied to me to be exempted from the tax +of one fourth, because, they said we were obliged to them for having +brought down a fleet which enriched the country. + +(Not signed.) + + + + +INDEX + +[Transcriber's note: Many index entries contain references like the "9 +n." in the "Arms" entry. The "n." appears to refer to the footnote(s) +that were on their host pages in the original book. In this e-book, +all footnotes have been moved to the end of their respective chapters.] + + +A + +Abenaki Indians, the, 363. + +Abitiby Indians, the, 364. + +Acadia, Indian tribes located in, 363. + +Albanel, Charles, Jesuit missionary, 141; overland trip of, to Hudson +Bay, 143-146; at King Charles Fort, 147. + +Albany (Orange), 32; Iroquois freebooting expedition against, 36-38; +Radisson's escape to, 39-41. + +Algonquin Indian, murder of Mohawk hunters by a, 20. + +Algonquin Indians, Radisson and Groseillers travel to the West with, +73-79; territory of the, 359; wars with the Iroquois, 359-360; tribes +of, on Lake Huron, 364. + +Allemand, Pierre, companion of Radisson, 154. + +Allouez, Pere Claude, 142. + +Amsterdam, Radisson's early visit to, 42. + +Arctic Ocean, Hearne's overland trip to, 257-265; arrival at, 265-266; +Mackenzie's trip of exploration to, 281-286. + +Arms, supplied to Mohawks by Dutch, 9 n.; desire for, cause of Sioux' +friendliness to Radisson, 120, 122. + +Assiniboine Indians, origin of name, 10 n., 85; Radisson learns of, +from prairie tribes, 85; defence of the younger Groseillers by, 184; De +la Verendrye meets the, 218-221; accompany De la Verendrye to the +Mandans, 223-227; Saint-Pierre's encounter with, 237. + +Assiniboine River, 218, 219, 221-222. + +Athabasca country, Hearne explores the, 268-269. + +Athabasca Lake; Hearne's arrival at, 268-269. + +Athabasca River, 277. + +Athabascan tribes, Matonabbee and the, 249. + +Aulneau, Father, 210, 211; killed by Indians, 214. + + +B + +Baptism of Indian children by Radisson and Groseillers, 92. + +Barren lands, region of "Little Sticks," 253-254, 259-260. + +Bath of purification, Indian, 14, 268. + +Bay of the North. _See_ Hudson Bay. + +Bayly, Charles, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 140; in Canada, +140-142; encounter with the Jesuit Albanel, 141-142, 147; accusations +against Radisson and Groseillers, 147-148. + +Bear, Lewis's experience with a, 318. + +Beauharnois, Charles de, governor of New France, 201, 203, 235. + +_Beaux Hommes_, Crow Indians, 232. + +Beckworth, prisoner among Missouri Indians, 33. + +Belmont, Abbe, cited, 5 n., 98 n. + +Bering, Vitus, 195. + +Bigot, intendant of New France, 236. + +Bird, prisoner of the Blackfeet, 33. + +Bird's egg moon, the (June), 279. + +Blackbird, Omaha chief, grave of, 311. + +Bochart, governor of Three Rivers. _See_ Duplessis-Kerbodot. + +Boesme, Louis, 70. + +_Boissons_, drinking matches, 280. + +Boston, Radisson and Groseillers in, 136. + +Bourassa, _voyageur_, 213. + +Bourdon, Jean, explorations by, 102, 134 n. + +Bow Indians, the, 232-233. + +Bridgar, John, governor of Hudson's Bay Company, 166, 169, 171, 173, +174, 175, 180. + +Brower, J. V., cited, 88 n. + +Bryce, Dr. George, 6 n., 88 n., 187 n. + +Buffalo-hunts, Sioux, 92 n., 124. + +Button, Sir Thomas, explorations of, 134 n. + + +C + +Cadieux, exploit and death of, 197-198. + +Cameahwait, Snake Indian chief, 324-326. + +Cannibalism among Indians, 24, 77. + +Cannibals of the Barren Lands, 255. + +Cape Breton, discovery and fortification of, 350. + +Caribou, Radisson's remarks on, 127. + +Caribou herds in Barren Lands, 255; Indian method of hunting, 259. + +Carr, George, letter from, to Lord Darlington, 136 n. + +Carr, Sir Robert, urges Radisson to renounce France, 136. + +Carrier, Jacques, 71, 193, 350-351. + +Cartwright, Sir George, Radisson and Groseillers sail with, 136-137; +shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Catlin, cited, 14 n., 226. + +Cayuga Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. + +Chaboneau, guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 326, 332. + +Chame, M., commissioner of Company of Normandy, 355, 357. + +Champlain, governor in Canada, 351-353. + +Charlevoix, mission of, 202. + +Chichigoe tribe of Indians, the, 365. + +Chinook Indians, Lewis and Clark friends with, 328. + +Chipewyans, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Hearne's journey +with, 257-263; massacre of Eskimo by, 263-265. + +Chouart, M., letters of, 335-337. _See_ Groseillers, Jean Baptiste. + +Chouart, Medard. See Groseillers, Medard Chouart. + +_Chronique Trifluvienne_, Sulte's, 4 n. + +Clark, William, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 308-309; exploration of +Yellowstone River by, 329; hero-qualities of, 332-333. _See_ Lewis. + +Clatsop Indians, Lewis and Clark among the, 328. + +Clearwater River, Lewis and Clark on the, 327. + +Coal, use of, by Indians, 89. + +Colbert, Radisson pardoned and commissioned by, 148; withholds +advancement from Radisson, 152; summons Radisson and Groseillers to +France, 176-177; death of, 177. + +Colleton, Sir Peter, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Colter, frontiersman with Lewis and Clark, 332. + +Columbia River, Lewis and Clark travel down the, 327. + +Company of Miscou, the, 352. + +Company of Normandy, the, 354-357. + +Company of the North, the, 151, 154, 175, 176. + +Company of One Hundred Associates, the, 133, 352, 353. + +Company of Tadoussac, the, 352. + +Company of the West Indies, the, 133, 153; account of formation of, 357. + +Comporte, M., letter to, from M. Chouart, 335-336. + +Coppermine River ("Far-Off-Metal River"), 245, 249, 252, 262, 267. + +Copper mines, Radisson receives reports of, 112, 124; discovery of, by +Hearne, 267. + +Council Bluffs, origin of name, 311. + +Council pipe, smoking the, 16, 29. + +Couture, explorations of, 103, 129-130. + +Couture (the younger), 143. + +Cree Indians, first reports of, 69, 85; Radisson's second visit to, +112-113, 116; wintering in a settlement of, 117; a famine among, +118-119; De la Verendrye assisted by, 206-208. + +Crow Indians, De la Verendrye's sons among, 232-233. + + +D + +Dablon, Claude, Jesuit missionary, 103, 134 n., 142. + +D'Ailleboust, M., governor of Company of Normandy, 354. + +Dakota, Radisson's explorations in, 89. + +D'Argenson, Viscomte, governor of New France, 99, 129-130, 356-357, 360. + +D'Avaugour, governor, 104, 105, 107, 133, 143, 357, 360. + +Death-song, Huron, 24, 54. + +De Casson, Dollier, cited, 5 n., 96 n., 98 n. + +De la Galissonniere, governor, 235. + +De la Jonquiere, governor, 236. + +De Lanoue, fur-trade pioneer, 204. + +De la Verendrye, Francois, 215, 222, 229, 230, 233. + +De la Verendrye, Jean Baptiste, 197, 205, 208-209, 210, 212; murder of, +by Sioux, 214. + +De la Verendrye, Louis, 215, 229. + +De la Verendrye, Pierre, 215, 222, 229, 230, 235, 315. + +De la Verendrye, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, leaves Montreal on search +for Western Sea (1731), 194-197; at Nepigon, 201; previous career, +201-203; traverses Lake Superior to Kaministiquia, 204; Fort St. Pierre +named for, 206; among the Cree Indians, 206-208; return to Quebec to +raise supplies, 210; loss of eldest son in Sioux massacre, 214; +explores Minnesota and Manitoba to Lake Winnipeg, 215-216; at Fort +Maurepas, 217; return to Montreal with furs, 218; explores valley of +the Assiniboine, 219-221; visits the Mandan Indians, 224-225; takes +possession for France of the Upper Missouri, 225; superseded by De +Noyelles (1746), 235; decorated with Order of Cross of St. Louis, 235; +death at Montreal, 236. + +De Niverville, lieutenant of Saint-Pierre, 236-237. + +Denonville, Marquis of, 336, 366, 367. + +De Noyelles, supersession of De la Verendrye by, 235. + +De Noyon, explorations of, 204. + +Dieppe, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353. + +Dionne, Dr. N. E., cited, 76 n., 88 n., 106 n., 139 n. + +Dog Rib Indians, Mackenzie among, 283-284. + +Dollard, fight of, against the Iroquois, 96-98, 198. + +Dreuillettes, Gabriel, discoveries by, 70-71, 103, 134 n. + +Drewyer, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 331. + +Drugging of Indians, 63-64. + +Duchesnau, M. Jacques, 149 n., 358. + +Dufrost, Christopher, Sieur de la Jemmeraie, 197, 203, 205, 209, 210, +211. + +Du Peron, Francois, 47. + +Duplessis-Kerbodot, murder of, by Iroquois, 5 n., 19, 45. + +Dupuis, Major, at Onondaga, 46, 55-66. + +Dutch, arms supplied to Mohawk Indians by, 9 n.; war of, with the +English, 137-138. + + +E + +England, arrival of Radisson and Groseillers in, 137; effect of war +between Holland and, on exploring propositions, 137-138; Hudson's Bay +Company organized in, 139-140; fur-trading expeditions from, 140-149. +_See_ Hudson's Bay Company _and_ Radisson. + +Erie Indians, the, 34. + +Eskimo, massacre of, by Chipewyans, 263-265. + + +F + +"Far-Off-Metal River," the, 245, 249, 252; Hearne reaches the, 262. + +Feasts, Indian, 60, 62-63, 67 n. + +_Festins a tout manger_, 60, 67 n. + +Fields, companion of Meriwether Lewis, 330-331. + +Flathead Indians, assistance given Lewis and Clark by, 327, 328. + +Floyd, Sergeant, of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 332. + +Forked River, term applied to Mississippi and Missouri rivers, 86, 100; +Radisson's account of people on the, 86-87. + +Fort, Dollard's so-called, at the Long Sault, 97; Radisson and +Groseillers', in the Northwest, 114-115. + +Fort Bourbon (Port Royal), on Hayes River, 161-175, 182-186. + +Fort Bourbon, on Saskatchewan, 229. + +Fort Chipewyan, 277. + +Fort Clatsop, Lewis and Clark's winter quarters, 327-328. + +Fort Dauphin, 229. + +Fort King Charles, 139, 146. + +Fort Lajonquiere, 237. + +Fort Mandan, stars and stripes hoisted at, 312. + +Fort Maurepas, construction, 209; description, 216-217; De la Verendrye +at, 217. + +Fort Orange, Radisson and the Iroquois at, 36-38; Radisson's escape to, +39-41. + +Fort Poskoyac, 229, 235. + +Fort Prince of Wales, building of, 243; description, 244-245; Hearne +becomes governor of, 270; surrender and destruction of, 271-272. + +Fort de la Reine, construction of, 222; De la Verendrye returns to, +after visiting Mandans, 228; abandonment of, 237. + +Fort Rouge, 221. + +Fort St. Charles, 208-209, 210, 215. + +Fort St. Louis, of Quebec, first fortification on site of, 351. + +Fort St. Pierre, 206. + +Fort William, 280, 283, 287. + +Fraser River, Mackenzie's explorations on, 294-302. + +Frog moon, the (May), 279. + +Frontenac, governor of New France, 154, 358, 360, 361, 362, 367. + +Fur companies of New France, 130, 133, 151, 153, 175-176, 352-358. + +Fur company, Hudson's Bay. _See_ Hudson's Bay Company. + +Fur trade, the French, 101-102, 104; regulations governing the, 104, +153 n.; effect of, on development of West, 113. + + +G + +Gantlet, running the, 15-16. + +Gareau, Leonard, journey and death of, 70. + +Garneau, cited, 5 n., 87 n. + +Gillam, Ben, encounters with Radisson, 163-164, 168-175. + +Gillam, Zechariah, Radisson's first transactions with, 135-136; +Groseillers' voyage to Hudson Bay with, 138-139; at Rupert River with +Hudson's Bay Company ship, 148; active enmity of, toward Radisson, +165-167, 168-169, 171, 176, 180. + +Godefroy, Jean, companion of Radisson, 154. + +Godefroy family, the, 154 n. + +Goose month (April), 253-254. + +Gorst, Thomas, 140 n., 147 n. + +Grand River of the North. _See_ Mackenzie River. + +Gray, Captain, 308. + +Great Falls of the Missouri, Lewis discovers the, 317. + +Great Rat, nation of the, 131, 365. + +Green Bay, western limit of French explorations until Radisson, 69; +Radisson's winter quarters at, 79-80, 99-100. + +Groseillers, nephew of explorer, title of nobility ordered granted to, +142. + +Groseillers, Jean Baptiste, accompanies Radisson to Hudson Bay (1682), +154; trip up Hayes River, 158, 161; left in charge of Fort Bourbon, +175; troubles with Indians and with English, 182-183; surrenders fort +to Radisson, acting for Hudson's Bay Company, 184; letters to mother, +184, 335-337; carried to England by force, 186; offer from Hudson's Bay +Company, 187. + +Groseillers, Medard Chouart, birth, birthplace, and marriage, 45; +journey to Lake Nipissing, 71; engages with Radisson in voyage of +exploration to the West (1658), 71-79; winter quarters at Green Bay, +79-80; explorations in West and Northwest, 80-90; return to Quebec, 99; +second trip to Northwest (1661), 103-129; imprisoned and fined on +return to Quebec (1663), 130; goes to France to seek reparation, 133; +meets with neglect and indifference, 133-134; deceived into returning +to Three Rivers and going to Isle Percee, 135; goes to Port Royal, +N.S., becomes involved with Boston sea-captain, and reaches England +_via_ Boston and Spain (1666), 135-137; backed by Prince Rupert, fits +out ship for Hudson Bay, and spends year in trading expedition +(1668-1669),138-139; on return to London, created a _Knight de la +Jarretiere_, 139; second voyage from England (1670), 140; involved with +Radisson in suspicions of double-dealing, 147-148; in meeting of fur +traders at Quebec, 149; retires to family at Three Rivers, 151; +summoned by Radisson to join expedition in private French interests to +Hayes River (1681-1682), 153-158; successful trade in furs, 158, 167; +jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, 175-176; summoned to France +by Colbert (1684), 176-177; petition for redress of wrongs ignored by +French court, 179; gives up struggle and retires to Three Rivers, 179. + + +H + +Hayes, Sir James, 180, 181. + +Hayes River, Radisson's canoe trip up the, 158-160; Fort Bourbon +established on, 161; Radisson's second visit to, 182-186. + +Hayet, Marguerite, Radisson's sister, 6 n., 43; death of first husband, +19, 45; marriage with Groseillers, 45; letters from son, 184, 335-337. + +Hayet, Sebastien, 6 n., 43 n. + +Hearne, Samuel, cited, 14 n.; departure from Fort Prince of Wales on +exploring trip, 249-252; in the Barren Lands, 253-255, 259-260; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 261; discovers the Coppermine River, 262-263; +massacre of Eskimo by Indians accompanying, 264-265; arrival at Arctic +Ocean, 265; takes possession of Arctic regions for Hudson's Bay +Company, 266-267; returns up the Coppermine River and discovers copper +mines, 267; travels in Athabasca region, 268-269; returns to Fort +Prince of Wales, 269; becomes governor of post, 270; surrenders fort to +the French, 271-272. + +Henault, Madeline, Radisson's mother, 6 n., 43. + +Hudson Bay, overland routes to, 71; Radisson's early discoveries +regarding, 90-91, 127-128. + +_Hudson Bay_, Robson's, cited, 139 n., 140 n., 147 n., 161 n., 166 n. + +Hudson's Bay Company, origin of, 139-140; early expeditions, 140-149; +distrust of Radisson by, 150; contract between Radisson and, 181-182; +final treaty of peace made between Indians and, 185; poor treatment of +Radisson by, 188; quietly prosperous career of, 241-242; encroachments +of French traders, 242-243; demand for activity, 243-244; possession +taken of Arctic regions for, by Hearne, 266-267. + +Huron Indians, death songs of, 24, 54; massacre of Christian, by +Iroquois, 50-54; band of, with Dollard, against the Iroquois, 97-98; +territory of, 359; tribes of, at Michilimackinac, 364. + +Husky dogs, 277. + + +I + +Icebergs, Labradorian, 155. + +Iroquois Confederacy, the five tribes composing the, 34; +characteristics of, 366. + +Iroquois Indians, murder of inhabitants of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, +45; treatment of prisoners by, 15-16, 25-28, 54; Radisson's life with, +16-39; Frenchmen at Montreal scalped by, 48; hostages of, held at +Quebec, 48, 55-56; siege of Onondaga by, 55-67; encounters between +Algonquins and Radisson and, 76-78, 79-80; Radisson's fight with, on +the Grand Sault, 94-96; Bollard's battle with, 97-98; Radisson's fights +with, on second Western trip, 107-108, 109-111; wars between Algonquins +and, 359. + +Isle of Massacres, 50-54. + +Issaguy tribe of Indians, 131 n. + + +J + +Jemmeraie, Sieur de la, De la Verendrye's lieutenant, 197, 203, 205, +209, 210; death of, 211. + +_Jesuit Relations_, cited, 57 n., 69 n., 71 n., 73 n., 80 n., 81 n., 82 +n., 91 n., 92 n., 96 n., 141 n.; quoted, 88. + +Jesuits, in Onondaga expedition, 44-67; lives of Iroquois saved by, 65; +start with Radisson and Groseillers on first Western expedition, 73; +turn back to Montreal, 77. + +Jogues, Father, 4, 56, 68, 69. + +Jolliet, 84 n., 149, 151. + + +K + +Kaministiquia, fur post at, 204. + +Kickapoo Indians, location of, 364. + +King Charles Fort. _See_ Fort King Charles. + +Kirke, Mary, marriage with Radisson, 138; becomes a Catholic, 152. + +Kirke, Sir John, shareholder in Hudson's Bay Company, 140; claims of, +against New France, 152; forbids daughter's going to France, 152; +friendly influence used for Radisson, 180. + +_Knight de la Jarretiere_, Groseillers created a, 139. + + +L + +La Barre, governor of New France, 176 + +La Chesnaye, cited, 115 n., 131 n.; backs Radisson in Northern +expedition, 152-153; outcome of Radisson's dealings with, 175-176. + +Lake Assiniboel, 366. + +"Lake of the Castors," the (Lake Nipissing), 76 n., 106 n., 364. + +Lake Ontario, tribes about, 366. + +Lake Superior, exploration of, by Radisson, 89; explorer's second visit +to, 111-112. + +Lamoignon, M. de, president of Company of Normandy, 355, 356, 357. + +La Perouse, French admiral, 271. + +Lariviere, companion of Radisson and Groseillers, 105, 106-107. + +La Salle, 84 n., 85, 149, 151, 194. + +Lauzon, M. de, governor of Company of Normandy, 355-356, 368. + +La Valliere, 103. + +La Verendrye. _See_ De la Verendrye. + +Ledyard, John, 308. + +_Letters of Marie de l'Incarnation_, cited, 46 n., 58 n., 60 n., 63 n., +81 n., 90 n., 96 n., 98 n., 139 n. + +Lewis, Meriwether, starts on expedition to explore Missouri and +Columbia rivers, 308-309; reaches villages of Mandan Indians, 311-313; +first views the Rocky Mountains, 314-315; discovers the Great Falls of +the Missouri, 317; narrowly escapes death from a bear, 318-319; enters +the Gates of the Rockies, 321; reaches sources of the Missouri, +322-323; makes friends with Snake Indians, 323-327; crosses Divide to +the Clearwater River and travels down the Columbia, 327; arrival on +Pacific Ocean, 327; winters at Fort Clatsop (1805-1806), 327-328; +return trip by main stream of the Missouri, 329; adventures with +Minnetaree Indians, 329-331; arrival at St. Louis, 332; tribute to +character and qualities of, 332-333. + +Liberte, traitor in Lewis and Clark's expedition, 311. + +Little Missouri, Lewis and Clark pass the, 313. + +"Little Sticks," region of, 253-254, 259-260. + +London, Radisson's first visit to, 137-138. + +Long Sault, Rapids of, Dollard's battle at, 96-98, 198. + +Lord Preston, English envoy in France, 177, 180, 181. + +Low, A. P., quoted, 128 n., 146 n., 149 n. + + +M + +Mackay, Alexander, Mackenzie's lieutenant, 288, 291, 292, 293, 296, 299. + +Mackenzie, Sir Alexander, early career of, 276; stationed at Fort +Chipewyan, 276-277; exploration of Mackenzie River by, 280-285; crosses +the Arctic Circle, 285; reaches Arctic Ocean, 285-286; returns up the +Mackenzie to Fort Chipewyan, 286; exploration of Peace River by, +288-294; discovers source of Peace River, 294; crosses the Divide and +reaches head waters of Fraser River, 294; travels down the Fraser, +294-298; adventures with Indians, 298-300; reaches the Pacific Ocean, +302-303; return to Fort Chipewyan _via_ Peace River, 304-305; later +life, 306. + +Mackenzie, Charles, 311. + +Mackenzie, Roderick, 278, 279. + +Mackenzie River, exploration of, 280-287, 296-302. + +Mandan Indians, bath of purification practised by, 14 n.; Radisson +discovers the, 86, 88; De la Verendrye's visit to, 222, 225-227; the +younger De la Verendryes' second visit to, 230-231; Lewis and Clark at +villages of, 311-313, 332. + +Manitoba, Radisson's explorations in, 113-128. + +Marquette, Pere, 84 n. + +Martin, Abraham, Plains of Abraham named for, 45 n. + +Martin, Helen, Groseillers' first wife, 45 n. + +Martiniere, plan of, to capture Radisson for French, 188. + +Mascoutins, "people of the fire," 80, 131 n., 364, 365; location of +the, 86; Radisson among the, 100. + +Matonabbee, chief of Chipewyans, 248-249; aid afforded Hearne by, +256-263; massacre of Eskimo directed by, 264-265; suicide of, 272. + +Menard, Father, 105, 112. + +Messaiger, Father, 204, 205, 209. + +Miami Indians, location of the, 364. + +Michigan, Indian tribes in, 364. + +Michilimackinac, Island of, Radisson; passes, 112; early headquarters +of fur trade, 201; Indian tribes at, 364. + +Micmac Indians, the, 363. + +Minnesota, dispute as to discovery of eastern, 71 n.; Radisson's +explorations in, 89; Radisson may have wintered in, on second trip, 113. + +Minnetaree Indians, Lewis and the, 329-331. + +Mississippi, Radisson discovers the Upper, 80-81. + +Mississippi Valley, Radisson first to explore the, 85-89. + +Missouri, tribes of the, 86; De la Verendrye takes possession of the +Upper, 225; Lewis and Clark explore the, 313-323. + +Mistassini, Lake, Father Albanel at, 146. + +Mistassini Indians, the, 363. + +Mohawk Indians, murder of French of Three Rivers by, 5 n., 19, 45; +adoption of Radisson by a family of, 17; murder of three, by Radisson +and an Algonquin, 20; jealous as to French settlement among Onondagas, +47-48; siege of Onondaga by, 55-59; outwitted by Radisson at Onondaga, +59-67; location of the, 364. + +Montagnais Indians, the, 363. + +Montana, punishment of Indians by scouts in, 25 n. + +Montmagny, M. de, governor in Canada, 353-354. + +Montreal, expedition for Onondaga leaves, 47; Iroquois scalp Frenchmen +at, 48; return of Onondaga party, 66; De la Verendrye's departure from, +194-197; Indian tribes located in vicinity of, 363-364. + +Munck, explorations of, 134 n. + + +N + +"Nation of the Grand Rat," 131, 365. + +Nelson River, Radisson on the, 140, 161, 164-167, 170-174, 179 n. + +Nemisco River, called the Rupert, 139. + +Nepigon, De la Verendrye at, 201, 202. + +New York in 1653, 41-42. + +_New York Colonial Documents_, 9 n. + +Nez Perces Indians, help given to Lewis and Clark by, 328. + +Nicolet, Jean, 68, 69. + +Nicolls, Colonel Richard, quoted, 136 n. + +Nipissing, Lake, 76 n., 106 n., 364. + +Nipissinien Indians, the, 364. + +Northwest, the Great, discovery of, by Radisson, 80-85. + +Northwest Fur Company, the, 279, 280, 287. + +Northwest Passage, reward of L20,000 offered for discovery of, 278. + +Norton, Marie, 247, 270, 271-272. + +Norton, Moses, governor of Fort Prince of Wales, 244; character of, +246-247; death of, 269-270. + + +O + +Ochagach, Indian hunter, 202. + +Octbaton tribe of Indians, 131 n. + +Ojibway Indians, 115, 365. + +Oldmixon, John, cited, 92 n., 114 n., 130 n., 147 n. + +Omaha Indians, Radisson's possible visit to, 86, 88. + +Omtou tribe of Indians, 131 n. + +Oneida Indians, the, 34, 364. + +Onondaga, settlement at, 46; Iroquois conspiracy against, 46-48; +garrison besieged at, 55-63; escape of French from, 64-67. + +Onondaga tribe, the, 34; Jesuit mission among (1656), 46-47; +treacherous conduct of, toward Christian Hurons, 50-54. + +Orange. _See_ Albany. + +Orimha, Radisson's Mohawk name, 16. + +Oudiette, Jean, 154 n. + +"Ouinipeg," Lake, 69, 71. + +Outanlouby Indians, the, 364. + + +P + +Pacific Ocean, Mackenzie's expedition reaches the, 302-303; Lewis and +Clark's expedition reaches, 327. + +Papinachois Indians, the, 363. + +Parkman, Francis, cited, 5 n., 19 n., 46 n., 87 n., 96 n. + +_Pays d'en Haut_, "Up-Country," defined, 201 n. + +Peace River, the, 281; exploration of, 287; Mackenzie reaches the +source of the, 294. + +Pemmican, defined, 223. + +"People of the Fire," the, Mascoutin Indians, 80 n., 86 n., 100, 131 n. + +Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior, the, 112. + +Piescaret, Algonquin chief, 4. + +Pipe of peace, smoking the, 121-123. + +Plains of Abraham, named for Abraham Martin, 45 n. + +Poinsy, M. de, commander at St. Christopher, 353. + +Poissons Blancs (White Fish) Indians, the, 363. + +Poncet, Pere, 41. + +Port Nelson, 140, 161-175, 182-186. + +Port Royal, Nova Scotia, Radisson and Groseillers at, 135. + +Prince Maximilian, 226. + +Prince Rupert, patron of French explorers, 138-139, 180; first governor +of Hudson's Bay Company, 140. + +Prisoners, treatment of, by Iroquois, 15-16, 25-28, 54. + +Prudhomme, Mr. Justice, 88 n. + +Purification, bath of, Indian rite, 14, 268. + + +Q + +Quebec, Iroquois hostages for safety of Onondaga held at, 48, 55-56; +celebration at, on return of Radisson and Groseillers, 99; meeting of +fur traders at (1676), 149; Indian tribes located about, 363. + + +R + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit (the elder), 6 n., 43 n. + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, uncle of the explorer, 43 n. + +Radisson, Pierre Esprit, date and place of birth, 6; genealogy of, 6 +n., 43 n.; captured by Iroquois Indians, 9; adopted into Mohawk tribe, +17; escape to Fort Orange (1653), 39-41; proof of Catholicism of, 41 +n.; visits Europe and returns to Three Rivers (1654), 42-44; joins +expedition to Onondaga (1657), 47; besieged by Iroquois throughout +winter, 55-64; saves the garrison and returns to Montreal, 65-67; goes +on trapping and exploring trip to the West (1658), 73-74; reaches Lake +Nipissing and Lake Huron, 78; in winter quarters at Green Bay, 79-80; +crosses present state of Wisconsin and discovers Upper Mississippi, +80-85; explorations to the west and south, 86-89; in Minnesota and +Manitoba, 89-91; encounter with Iroquois at Long Sault of the Ottawa, +94-96; at scene of Dollard's fight of a week before, 96-98; arrival at +Quebec (1660), 99; sets forth on voyage of discovery toward Hudson Bay +(1661), 105; traverses Lake Superior, 111-112; builds fort and winters +west of present Duluth, 113-116; visits the Sioux, 123-124; reaches +Lake Winnipeg, 127; returns to Quebec (1663), 129; bad treatment by +French officials, 130; goes to France to gain his rights, 133-134; +ill-treatment, deception by Rochelle merchant, dealings with Captain +Gillam of Boston, and visit to Boston (1665), 134-136; goes to England, +137-138; marriage with Mary Kirke, 138; formation of Hudson's Bay +Company (1670), 139-140; trading voyage to Port Nelson (1671), 140-141; +recalled to England and poorly treated (1674-1675), 148; receives +commission in French navy (1675-1676), 148; complications between +wife's father and French government, 152; backed by La Chesnaye, +engages in new expedition to Hudson Bay, 152-153; returns to Quebec +(1681) and sails to Hayes River (1682), 153-158; troubles with English +and Boston ships, 161-175; jealousy and lawsuits on return to Quebec, +175-177; unsuccessfully presses claims in France, 179-180; commissioned +by Hudson's Bay Company, 181-182; sails to Hayes River and takes +possession of Fort Bourbon and French furs (1684), 182-185; return to +England, 186-187; annual voyages to Hudson Bay for five years, 188; +distrusted on breaking out of war with France, and neglect in old age, +188-189: consideration of character and career, 189-190. + +_Radisson's Relation_, cited, 9 n., 46 n., 63 n., 80 n., 81 n., 98 n., +99 n., 122, 127, 163 n., 179; language used in, 82; time of writing, +138. + +Ragueneau, Father Paul, 46 n., 47, 48, 50, 51, 52, 53, 59 n., 63 n. + +Rascal Village, Indian camp, 305. + +Red River, first white men on, 219. + +Rhythm as an Indian characteristic, 160 n. + +Ricaree Indians, insolence of, to Lewis and Clark, 311-312. + +Robson, cited, 139, 140, 147, 161, 166. + +Rochelle, Radisson's visit to, in 1654, 43. + +Rocky Mountains, Radisson's nearest approach to the, 89; Pierre de la +Verendrye reaches the, 233; Lewis's first view of the, 314-315; Lewis +and Clark enter Gates of the, 321. + +Rouen, merchants of, interested in Canada trade, 352, 353, 357. + +Roy, J. Edmond, cited, 102 n. + +Roy, R., translations of documents, 335. + +Rupert River, the Nemisco renamed the, 139. + + +S + +Sacajawea, squaw guide to Lewis and Clark, 312, 321, 326, 332. + +St. Louis, departure of Lewis and Clark's expedition from, 308-309; +return to, 332. + +Saint-Lusson, Sieur de, 142. + +Saint-Pierre, Legardeur de, 236-237. + +Saskatchewan River, exploration of, 229. + +Sautaux Indians, the, 89-90, 92 n., 131 n., 365. + +Scalp dance, the, 12, 14. + +Seneca Indians, the, 34, 55, 364. + +Sioux Indians, the, 69; Radisson and the, 85, 88, 120-124; desire of, +for firearms, 120, 122; location of the, 365. + +Skull-crackers, Indian, defined, 25, 121. + +Slave Lake, Mackenzie on, 282. + +Slave Lake Indians, the, 280, 282, 290. + +Smith, Donald (Lord Strathcona), 275-276. + +Snake Indians, Lewis and Clark make friends with, 323-326. + +Society of One Hundred. _See_ Company of One Hundred Associates. + +Songs, Indian, 159, 160. + +Sturgeons, Radisson's river of, 112. + +Sulte, Benjamin, cited, 4, 5 n., 6 n., 7 n., 19 n., 43 n., 68 n., 76 +n., 86 n., 99 n., 102 n., 139 n., 154 n. + + +T + +Tadoussac (Quebec), Company of, 352. + +Talon, intendant of New France, 7 n., 142-143, 357-358, 360, 367, 368. + +Tanguay, Abbe, 5 n., 19 n., 88 n. + +Tar bed, Mackenzie's discovery of a, in the Arctic, 286. + +Temiscamingue Indians, the, 364. + +Thousand Islands, massacre of Huron captives by Iroquois at, 53-54. + +Three Forks of the Missouri, Lewis and Clark arrive at, 321. + +Three Rivers, population of, 7 n.; in 1654, 44-45; De la Verendrye born +at, 201; Indians of, 363. + +Touret, Eli Godefroy, French spy, 137. + +Torture, Indian methods of, 15-16, 25-28, 54. + +_Travaille_, defined, 224. + +_Tripe de roches_, defined, 78. + + +V + +Verendrye. _See_ De la Verendrye. + +Ville-Marie (Montreal), Indian tribes about, 363-364. + +Voorhis, Mrs. Julia Clark, Clark letters owned by, 312 n. + + +W + +Wampum, significance to Indians, 17. + +War-cry, Indian, sounds representing the, 11 n. + +Waste, viewed by Indians as crime, 60. + +West Indies Company. _See_ Company of the West Indies. + +Windsor, member of Lewis and Clark's expedition, 315-316. + +Winnipeg, Lake, first reports of, 69, 71; Radisson arrives at, 127; +rumours of a tide on, 216; De la Verendrye on, 216-218. + +Wisconsin, Radisson's travels in, 80-8l, 89. + +Wolf Indians located at Three Rivers, 363. + +Wyandotte Indians, the, 364. + + +Y + +Yellowstone River, exploration of, by Lewis and Clark, 313, 329. + +York (Port Nelson), 140, 161-175, 182-186. + +Young, Sir William, champions Radisson's cause, 180, 181, 188. + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Pathfinders of the West, by A. 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