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+Project Gutenberg's Round About the Carpathians, by Andrew F. Crosse
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Round About the Carpathians
+
+Author: Andrew F. Crosse
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2006 [EBook #17972]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ROUND ABOUT THE CARPATHIANS ***
+
+
+
+Produced by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, Taavi Kalju, and the Online
+Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net.
+(This file was made using scans of public domain works
+from the University of Michigan Digital Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+ROUND ABOUT THE
+CARPATHIANS
+
+
+BY
+
+ANDREW F. CROSSE
+
+FELLOW OF THE CHEMICAL SOCIETY
+
+
+WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS
+   EDINBURGH AND LONDON
+      MDCCCLXXVIII
+
+_The Right of translation is reserved_
+
+
+MUIR AND PATERSON, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Down the Danube from Buda-Pest--Amusements on board the
+steamer--Basiash--Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen--Ladies of
+Oravicza--Gipsy music--Finding an old school-fellow--The
+_czardas_.                                                             1
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Consequences of trying to buy a horse--An expedition into
+Servia--Fine scenery--The peasants of New Moldova--Szechenyi
+road--Geology of the defile of Kasan--Crossing the
+Danube--Milanovacz--Drive to Maidenpek--Fearful storm in the
+mountains--Miserable quarters for the night--Extent of this
+storm--The disastrous effects of the same storm at
+Buda-Pest--Great loss of life.                                        15
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Maidenpek--Well-to-do condition of Servians--Lady Mary Wortley
+Montague's journey through Servia--Troubles in
+Bulgaria--Communists at Negotin--Copper mines--Forest
+ride--Robbers on the road--Kucainia--Belo-breska--Across the
+Danube--Detention at customhouse--Weisskirchen--Sleeping
+Wallacks.                                                             33
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Variety of races in Hungary--Wallacks or
+Roumains--Statistics--Savage outbreak of the Wallacks in former
+years--Panslavic ideas--Roumanians and their origin--Priests of
+the Greek Church--Destruction of forests--Spirit of
+Communism--Incendiary fires.                                          46
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Paraffine-works in Oravicza--Gold mine--Coal mines at
+Auima-Steirdorf--Geology--States Railway Company's
+mines--Bribery                                                        54
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Mineral wealth of the Banat--Wild ride to Dognacska--Equipment
+for a riding tour--An afternoon nap and its consequences--Copper
+mines--Self-help--Rare insects--Moravicza--Rare
+minerals--Deutsch Bogsan--Reschitza                                   58
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Election at Oravicza--Officialism--Reforms--Society--Ride to
+Szaszka--Fine views--Drenkova--Character of the
+Serbs--Svenica--Rough night walk through the forest                   70
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Hospitable welcome at Uibanya--Excursion to the Servian side of
+the Danube--Ascent of the Stierberg--Bivouac in the
+woods--Magnificent views towards the Balkans--Fourteen eagles
+disturbed--Wallack dance                                              83
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+A hunting expedition proposed--Drive from Uibanya to
+Orsova--Oriental aspect of the market-place--Cserna
+Valley--Hercules-Bad, Mehadia--Post-office mistakes--Drive to
+Karansebes--Rough customers _en route_--Lawlessness--Fair at
+Karansebes--Podolian cattle--Ferocious dogs                           90
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Post-office at Karansebes--Good headquarters for a
+sportsman--Preparations for a week in the mountains--The party
+starting for the hunt--Adventures by the way--Fine
+trees--Game--Hut in the forest--Beauty of the scenery in the
+Southern Carpathians                                                 104
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+Chamois and bear hunting--First battue--Luxurious dinner 5000
+feet above the sea-level--Storm in the night--Discomforts--The
+bear's supper--The eagle's breakfast--Second and third day's
+shooting--Baking a friend as a cure for fever--Striking
+camp--View into Roumania                                             118
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Back at Mehadia--Troubles about a carriage--An unexpected night
+on the road--Return to Karansebes--On horseback through the Iron
+Gate Pass--Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia--Roman
+remains--Beauty of the Hatszeg Valley                                131
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Hungarian hospitality--Wallack laziness--Fishing--"Settled
+gipsies"--Anecdote--Old _regime_--Fire--Old Roman bath--The
+avifauna of Transylvania--Fly-fishing                                140
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+On horseback to Petroseny--A new town--Valuable
+coal-fields--Killing fish with dynamite and poison--Singular
+manner of repairing roads--Hungarian patriotism--Story of
+Hunyadi Janos--Intrusion of the Moslems into Europe                  152
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Hunting for a guide--School statistics--Old times--Over the
+mountains to Herrmannstadt--Night in the open--Nearly setting
+the forest on fire--Orlat                                            160
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Herrmannstadt--Saxon immigrants--Museum--Places of interest in
+the neighbourhood--The fortress-churches--Heltau--The Rothen
+Thurm Pass--Turkish incursions                                       173
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+Magyar intolerance of the German--Patriotic revival of the
+Magyar language--Ride from Herrmannstadt to Kronstadt--The
+village of Zeiden--Curious scene in church--Reformation in
+Transylvania--Political bitterness between Saxons and Magyars in
+1848                                                                 184
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+Political difficulties--Impatient criticism of
+foreigners--Hungary has everything to do--Tenant-farmers
+wanted--Wages                                                        195
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Want of progress amongst the Saxons--The
+Burzenland--Kronstadt--Mixed character of its
+inhabitants--Szeklers--General Bem's campaign                        199
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+The Tomoescher Pass--Projected railway from Kronstadt to
+Bucharest--Visit to the cavalry barracks at Rosenau--Terzburg
+Pass--Dr Daubeny on the extinct volcanoes of Hungary--Professor
+Judd on mineral deposits                                             209
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+A ride through Szeklerland--Warnings about robbers--Bueksad--A
+look at the sulphur deposits on Mount Buedos--A lonely lake--An
+invitation to Tusnad                                                 219
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+The baths of Tusnad--The state of affairs before
+1848--Inequality of taxation--Reform--The existing land
+laws--Communal property--Complete registration of titles to
+estates--Question of entail                                          232
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+Fine scenery in Szeklerland--Csik Szent Marton--Absence of
+inns--The Szekler's love of lawsuits--Csik Szereda--Hospitality
+along the road--Wallack atrocities in 1848--The Wallacks not
+Panslavists                                                          243
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+Ride to Szent Domokos--Difficulty about quarters--Interesting
+host--Jewish question in Hungary--Taxation--Financial matters        252
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+Copper mine of Balanbanya--Miners in the wine-shop--Ride to St
+Miklos--Visit to an Armenian family--Capture of a robber--Cold
+ride to the baths of Borsek                                          260
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+Moldavian frontier--Toelgyes--Excitement about robbers--Attempt
+at extortion--A ride over the mountains--Return to St Miklos         275
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+Toplicza--Armenian hospitality--A bear-hunt--A ride over to the
+frontier of Bukovina--Destruction of timber--Maladministration
+of State property--An unpleasant night on the
+mountain--Snowstorm                                                  282
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+Visits at Transylvanian chateaux--Society--Dogs--Amusements at
+Klausenburg--Magyar poets--Count Istvan Szechenyi--Baron
+Eoetvos--'The Village Notary'--Hungarian self-criticism--Literary
+taste                                                                291
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+A visit at Schloss B------National characteristics--Robber
+stories--Origin of the "poor lads"--Audacity of the
+robbers--Anecdote of Deak and the housebreaker--Romantic story
+of a robber chief                                                    302
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+Return to Buda-Pest--All-Souls' Day--The cemetery--Secret burial
+of Count Louis Batthyanyi--High rate of mortality at Buda-Pest       315
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+Skating--Death and funeral of Deak--Deak's policy--Uneasiness
+about the rise of the Danube--Great excitement about
+inundations--The capital in danger--Night scene on the
+embankment--Firing the danger-signal--The great calamity averted     321
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+Results of the Danube inundations--State of things at
+Baja--Terrible condition of New Pest--Injuries sustained by the
+island garden of St. Marguerite--Charity organisation                335
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIII.
+
+Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains--Railways in Hungary--The
+train stopping for a rest--The Alfoeld--Shepherds of the
+plain--Wild appearance of the Rusniacks--Slavs of Northern
+Hungary--Marmaros Szigeth--Difficulty in slinging a hammock--The
+Jews of Karasconfalu--Soda manufactory at Boeska--Romantic
+scenery--Salt mines--Subterranean lake                               339
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIV.
+
+The Tokay district--Visit at Schloss G------Wild-boar
+hunting--Incidents of the chase                                      355
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXV.
+
+Tokay vineyards--The vine-grower's difficulties--Geology of the
+Hegyalia--The Pope's compliment to the wine of Tallya--Towns of
+the Hegyalia--Farming--System of wages at harvest--The different
+sorts of Tokay wine                                                  364
+
+
+_Map of the Banat and Transylvania with Mr Crosse's route._
+
+
+
+
+ROUND ABOUT THE CARPATHIANS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+     Down the Danube from Buda-Pest--Amusements on board the
+     steamer--Basiash--Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen--Ladies of
+     Oravicza--Gipsy music--Finding an old schoolfellow--The _czardas_.
+
+
+One glorious morning in June 1875, I, with the true holiday feeling at
+heart, for the world was all before me, stepped on board the Rustchuk
+steamer at Buda-Pest, intending to go down the Danube as far as Basiash.
+
+Your express traveller, whose aim it is to get to the other end of
+everywhere in the shortest possible time, will take the train instead of
+the boat to Basiash, and there catch up the steamer, saving fully twelve
+hours on the way. This time the man in a hurry is not so far wrong; the
+Danube between Buda-Pest and the defile of Kasan is almost devoid of
+what the regular tourist would call respectable scenery. There are few
+objects of interest, except the mighty river itself.
+
+Now the steamer has its advantages over the train, for surely nowhere in
+this locomotive world can a man more thoroughly enjoy "sweetly doing
+nothing" than on board one of these river-boats. You are wafted swiftly
+onward through pure air and sunshine; you have an armchair under the
+awning; of course an amusing French novel; besides, truth to say, there
+is plenty to amuse you on board. Once past Vienna, your moorings are cut
+from the old familiar West; the costumes, the faces, the architecture,
+and even the way of not doing things, have all a flavour of the East.
+
+What a hotch-potch of races, so to speak, all in one boat, but ready to
+do anything rather than pull together; even here, between stem and stern
+of our Danube steamer, are Magyars, Germans, Servians, Croats,
+Roumanians, Jews, and gipsies. They are all unsatisfied people with
+aspirations; no two are agreed--everybody wants something else down
+here, and how Heaven is to grant all the prayers of those who have the
+grace to pray, or how otherwise to settle the Eastern Question, I will
+not pretend to say.
+
+Meanwhile the world amuses itself--I mean the microcosm on board the
+steamer: people, ladies not excepted, play cards, drink coffee, and
+smoke. There is a good opportunity of studying the latest Parisian
+fashions, as worn by Roumanian belles; they know how to dress, do those
+handsome girls from Bucharest.
+
+When steam navigation was first established on the Danube, as long ago
+as 1830, Prince Demidoff remarked, that "in making the Danube one of the
+great commercial highways of the world, steam had united the East with
+the West." It was a smart saying, but it was not a thing accomplished
+when the Prince wrote his Travels, nor is it now; for though the "Danube
+Steam Navigation Company" have been running their boats for nearly half
+a century, they are in difficulties, "chiefly," says Mr Revy,[1] "from
+the neglect of all river improvements between Vienna and Buda-Pest, and
+between Basiash and Turn-Severin." He goes on to say that the dearest
+interests of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy are involved in the
+rectification of the course of the Danube, recommending a Royal
+Commission to be appointed. Those who follow the course of the river may
+see for themselves how little has been done, and how much remains to be
+done before it can be safely reckoned one of the great commercial
+highways of the world.
+
+We had started from Buda-Pest on Monday morning at seven o'clock, and
+arrived at Basiash at nine the following morning. We were fortunate in
+not having been detained anywhere by shallow water, so often the cause
+of delay by this route.
+
+Up to the present time Basiash is the terminus of the railway; it is a
+depot for coal brought from the interior, and though not out of its
+teens, is a place fast growing into importance.
+
+As my object was to get to Oravicza in the Banat, I had done with the
+steamboat, and intended taking the rail to my destination; but, in the
+"general cussedness" of things, there turned out to be no train till the
+evening. I did not at all enjoy the prospect of knocking about the whole
+day amongst coal-sheds and unfinished houses, with the alternative
+refuge of the inn, which was swarming with flies and redolent of many
+evil smells; so I thought I would find some conveyance and drive over,
+for the distance was not great. If there is anything I hate, it is
+waiting the livelong day for a railway train.
+
+There chanced to be an intelligent native close by who divined my
+thoughts, for I had certainly not uttered them; he came up, touched me
+on the arm, and pointed round the corner. Notwithstanding the intense
+heat of the day, the Wallack, for such he was, wore an enormous
+sheepskin cloak with the wool outside, as though ready for an Arctic
+winter. I followed him a few steps to see what he wanted me to look at;
+the movement was quite enough, he regarded it evidently in the light of
+ready assent, and in the twinkling of an eye he possessed himself of my
+portmanteau and other belongings, motioned me to follow him, which I
+did, and then found that my Heaven-sent friend had a machine for hire.
+
+I call it a machine, because it was not like anything on wheels I had
+seen before: later on I became familiar enough with the carts of the
+country; they are long-bodied, rough constructions, wonderfully adapted
+to the uneven roads. In this case there were four horses abreast, which
+sounds imposing, as any four-in-hand must always do.
+
+I now asked the Wallack in German if he could drive me to Oravicza, for
+I saw he had made up his mind to drive me somewhere. To my relief I
+found he could speak German, at all events a few words. He replied he
+could drive the "high and nobly born Excellency" there in four hours.
+The time was one thing, but the charge was quite another affair. His
+demand was so outrageous that I supposed it was an implied compliment to
+my exalted rank: certainly it had no adequate reference to the services
+offered. The fellow asked enough to buy the whole concern outright--cart
+and four horses! They were the smallest horses I almost ever saw, and
+were further reduced by the nearest shave of being absolute skeletons;
+the narrow line between sustaining life and actual starvation must have
+been nicely calculated.
+
+We now entered upon the bargaining phase, a process which threatened to
+last some time; all the stragglers in the place assisted at the
+conference, taking a patriotic interest in their own countryman. The
+matter was finally adjusted by the Wallack agreeing to take a sixth part
+of the original sum.
+
+Seated on a bundle of hay, with my things around me, I was now quite
+ready for the start, but the driver had a great many last words with the
+public, which the interest in our proceedings had gathered about us.
+Presently with an air of triumph he took his seat, gave a loud crack or
+two with his whip, and off we started at a good swinging trot, just to
+show what his team could accomplish.
+
+We took the road to Weisskirchen, leaving the Danube in the rear. The
+country was fairly pretty, but nothing remarkable; fine scenery under
+the circumstances would have been quite superfluous, for the dust was
+two feet deep in the road, and the heels of four horses scampering along
+raised such a cloud of it that we could see next to nothing.
+
+We had not proceeded far when the speed sensibly relaxed; I fancy the
+horses went slower that they might listen to what the driver had to say,
+he talked to them the whole time. He was not communicative to me; his
+knowledge of German seemed limited to the bargaining process, a lesson
+often repeated, I suspect. As time wore on the heat became almost
+tropical; as for the dust, I felt as if I had swallowed a sandbank, and
+was joyful at the near prospect of quenching my thirst at Weisskirchen,
+now visible in the distance.
+
+Hungarian towns look like overgrown villages that have never made up
+their minds seriously to become towns. The houses are mostly of one
+story, standing each one alone, with the gable-end, blank and
+windowless, towards the road. This is probably a relic of Orientalism.
+
+Getting up full speed as we approached the town, we clattered noisily
+over the crown of the causeway, and suddenly making a sharp turn, found
+ourselves in the courtyard of the inn.
+
+I inquired how long we were to remain here; "A small half-hour," was the
+driver's answer. This was my first experience of a Wallack's idea of
+time, if indeed they have any ideas on the subject beyond the rising and
+the setting of the sun.
+
+I strolled about the place, but there was not much to be done in the
+time, and I got very tired of waiting: the "half-hour" was anything but
+"small;" however, one must be somewhere, and in Hungary waiting comes a
+good deal into the day's work. I was rather afraid my Wallack was
+indulging too freely in _slivovitz_--otherwise plum-brandy--a special
+weakness of theirs; but after an intolerable delay we got off at last.
+
+Soon after leaving the town we came upon an encampment of gipsies; their
+tents looked picturesque enough in the distance, but on nearer approach
+the illusion was entirely dispelled. In appearance they were little
+better than savages; children even of ten years of age, lean, mop-headed
+creatures, were to be seen running about absolutely naked. As Mark Twain
+said, "they wore nothing but a smile," but the smile was a grimace to
+try to extract coppers from the traveller. Two miles farther on we came
+upon fourteen carts of gipsies, as wild a crew as one could meet all the
+world over. Some of the men struck me as handsome, but with a single
+exception the women were terribly unkempt-looking creatures.
+
+It was fully six o'clock before we reached Oravicza; the drive of
+twenty-five miles had taken eight hours instead of four, as the Wallack
+had profanely promised.
+
+We entered the town with a feeble attempt at a trot, but the poor brutes
+of horses were dead beat, and neither the pressure of public opinion nor
+the suggestive cracking of the driver's whip could arouse them, to
+becoming activity.
+
+Oravicza is very prettily situated on rising ground, and the long
+winding street, extending more than two miles, turns with the valley.
+Crawling along against collar the whole way, I thought the street would
+never end. There are very few Magyar inhabitants in this place, which is
+pretty equally divided between Germans and Wallacks; the lower part of
+the town belongs to the latter, and is known as Roman Oravicza, in
+distinction to Deutsch Oravicza. The population is altogether about
+seven thousand.
+
+I fancy not many strangers pass this way, for never was a shy Englishman
+so stared at as this dust-begrimmed traveller. I became painfully
+self-conscious of the generally disreputable appearance of my cart and
+horses, the driver and myself, when two remarkably pretty girls tripped
+by, casting upon me well-bred but amused glances. All the womenkind of
+Oravicza must have turned out at this particular hour, for I had hardly
+passed the sisters with the arched eyebrows, when I came upon another
+group of young ladies, who were laughing and talking together. I think
+they grew merrier as I approached, and I am quite sure I was hotter than
+I had been all day. "Confound the fellow! can't he turn into an
+innyard--anywhere out of the main street?" thought I, giving my driver a
+poke. He knew perfectly well where he was about to take me, and no
+significant gestures of mine hastened him forward in the very least.
+Presently, without any warning, we did turn into a side opening, but so
+suddenly that the whole vehicle had a wrench, and the two hind wheels
+jolted over a high kerbstone. Meanwhile the group of damsels were still
+in close confab, and I could see took note that the stranger had
+descended at the Krone. We were all in a heap in the courtyard, but we
+had to extricate ourselves as best we could, for not a soul was to be
+seen, though we had made noise enough certainly to announce our arrival.
+
+I pulled repeatedly at the bell before I could rouse the _hausknecht_,
+and induce him to make an appearance. At length he deigned to emerge
+from the recesses of the dirty interior. Having discharged the Wallack
+in a satisfied frame of mind (he had the best of the bargain after all),
+I was at leisure to follow mine host to inspect the accommodation he had
+to offer me. A sanitary commissioner would have condemned it, but _en
+voyage comme en voyage_. With some difficulty and delay I procured water
+enough to fill the pie-dish that did duty for the washing apparatus. I
+had an old relative of extremely Low Church proclivities who was always
+repeating--for my edification, I suppose--that "man is but dust;" the
+dear old lady would have said so in very truth if she had seen me on
+this occasion.
+
+After supper I strolled into the summer theatre, a simple erection,
+consisting of a stage at the end of a pretty, shady garden. Seats and
+tables were placed under the lime-trees, and here the happy people of
+Oravicza enjoy their amusements in the fresh air, drinking coffee and
+eating ices. Think of the luxury of fresh air, O ye frequenters of
+London theatres!
+
+The evening was already advanced, the tables were well filled; groups
+gathered here and there, sauntering under the greenery, gay with
+lanterns; and many a blue-eyed maiden was there, with looks coquettish
+yet demure, as German maidens are wont to appear.
+
+A concert was going on, and I for the first time heard a gipsy band.
+Music is an instinct with these Hungarian gipsies. They play by ear, and
+with a marvellous precision, not surpassed by musicians who have been
+subject to the most careful training. Their principal instruments are
+the violin, the violoncello, and a sort of zither. The airs they play
+are most frequently compositions of their own, and are in character
+quite peculiar, though favourite pieces from Wagner and other composers
+are also given by them with great effect. I heard on this occasion one
+of the gipsy airs which made an indelible impression on my mind; it
+seemed to me the thrilling utterance of a people's history. There was
+the low wail of sorrow, of troubled passionate grief, stirring the heart
+to restlessness, then the sense of turmoil and defeat; but upon this
+breaks suddenly a wild burst of exultation, of rapturous joy--a triumph
+achieved, which hurries you along with it in resistless sympathy. The
+excitable Hungarians can literally become intoxicated with this
+music--and no wonder. You cannot reason upon it, or explain it, but its
+strains compel you to sensations of despair and joy, of exultation and
+excitement, as though under the influence of some potent charm.
+
+I strolled leisurely back to the inn, beneath the starlit heavens. The
+outline of the mountains was clearly marked in the distance, and in the
+foreground quaint gable-ends mixed themselves up with the shadows and
+the trees--a pretty picture, prettier than anything one can see by the
+light of "common day."
+
+The following morning I set about making inquiries respecting the mines
+which I knew existed in the neighbourhood of Oravicza. I found that an
+English gentleman owned a gold mine in the immediate vicinity, and that
+he was then living in the town. This induced me to go off at once to
+call upon him, and I was immediately received in a very friendly manner.
+This accidental meeting was rather curious, for on comparing notes we
+found that we had been schoolfellows together at Westminster. H----
+being my senior, we had not known each other well; but meeting here in
+the wilds, we were as old familiar friends. H---- kindly insisted on my
+leaving the inn and taking up my quarters with him in his bachelor
+residence, which was in fact big enough to accommodate a whole form of
+Westminster boys. I was not at all sorry to avoid a second night at the
+Krone, and gladly fell into my friend's hospitable arrangements.
+
+I was in great luck altogether, for that very evening a dance was to
+come off at Oravicza, and my friend invited me to accompany him. Dancing
+is one of the sins I compound for; moreover, I had a lively recollection
+of the bright eyes I had encountered yesterday.
+
+Oravicza is a central place, in a way the chief town of the Banat. It
+has a pleasant little society, composed of the families of the
+officials, and of the military stationed there; they are mostly German
+by origin. Amongst the belles of the evening I soon discovered my merry
+critics of yesterday. I was duly presented, and we laughed together over
+my "first appearance." It was one of the pleasantest evenings I ever
+remember. I hate long invitations to anything agreeable; this party, for
+instance, had the charm of unexpectedness. If unfortunately I should
+prove not quite good enough to go to heaven, I think it would be very
+pleasant to stop at Oravicza--supposing, of course, that my friends all
+stopped there as well.
+
+Here I first danced the _czardas_; it is an epoch in a man's life, but
+you must see it, feel it, dance it, and, above all, hear the gipsy music
+that inspires it. This is the national dance of the Hungarians, favoured
+by prince and peasant alike. The figures are very varied, and represent
+the progress of a courtship where the lady is coy, and now retreats and
+now advances; her partner manifests his despair, she yields her hand,
+and then the couple whirl off together to the most entrancing tones of
+wild music, such as St. Anthony himself could not have resisted.
+
+[Footnote 1: The Danube at Buda-Pest. Report addressed to Count Andrassy
+by J.J. Revy, C.E. 1876.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+     Consequences of trying to buy a horse--An expedition into
+     Servia--Fine scenery--The peasants of New Moldova--Szechenyi
+     road--Geology of the defile of Kasan--Crossing the
+     Danube--Milanovacz-Drive to Maidenpek--Fearful storm in the
+     mountains--Miserable quarters for the night--Extent of this
+     storm--The disastrous effects of the same storm at Buda-Pest--Great
+     loss of life.
+
+
+My friend H---- is the very impersonation of sound practical sense. The
+next morning he coolly broke in upon my raptures over the beauty of the
+Oravicza ladies by saying, "You want to buy a horse, don't you?"
+
+Of course I did, but my thoughts were elsewhere at the moment, and with
+some reluctance I took my hat and followed my friend to interview a
+Wallack who had heard that I was a likely purchaser, and brought an
+animal to show me. It would not do at all, and we dismissed him.
+
+A little later we went out into the town, and I thought there was a
+horse-fair; I should think we met a dozen people at least who came up to
+accost me on the subject of buying a horse. And such a collection of
+animals!--wild colts from the Pustza that had never been ridden at all,
+and other ancient specimens from I know not where, which could never be
+ridden again--old, worn-out roadsters. There were two or three good
+horses, but they were only fit for harness. I was so bothered every time
+I put my nose out of doors by applications from persons anxious to part
+with their property in horse-flesh, that I wished I had kept my
+intentions locked in my own breast. I was pestered for days about this
+business. There was an old Jew who came regularly to the house three
+times a-day to tell me of some other paragon that he had found. When he
+saw that it was really of no use, he then complained loudly that I had
+wasted his precious time, that he had given up every other occupation
+for the sake of finding me a horse. I dismissed this Jew, telling him
+pretty sharply to go about his own business for once, adding that
+nothing should induce me to buy a horse in Oravicza.
+
+One day H---- informed me that he was going over to Servia on a matter
+of business, and if I liked to accompany him, I should see something of
+the country, and perhaps I might find there a horse to suit me. The
+Servian horses are said to be a useful breed, strong though small, and
+very enduring for a long march.
+
+I was very ready for the expedition, so we hired a _leiterwagen_, which
+is in fact a long cart with sides like a ladder, peculiarly suitable for
+rough work. I was much surprised to find the Hungarians far less often
+in the saddle than I expected; it is true, nobody walks, not even the
+poorest peasant, but they drive, as a rule.
+
+We started one fine July morning in our machine for Moldova on the
+Danube. The first place we came to was Szaszka, a mining village. Close
+by are copper mines and smelting-works belonging to the States Railway
+Company. I was told that they do not pay as well as formerly, owing to
+the fact that the ore now being worked is poorer than before; it yields
+only two per cent. of copper, a very low average. Nothing could well
+exceed the dirt of Szaszka; we merely stopped long enough to feed the
+horses, and were glad to get off again.
+
+On leaving this place the road immediately begins to ascend the
+mountain, and may be described as a sort of pass over a spur of the
+Carpathians. It was a very beautiful drive, favoured as we were, too,
+with fine weather. The road on the northern side is even well made,
+ascending in regular zigzags. After gaining the summit, we left the
+post-road that we had hitherto traversed, and took our way to the right,
+descending through a forest. The varied foliage was very lovely, and
+the shade afforded us most grateful. It was an original notion driving
+through such a place, for, according to my ideas, there was no road at
+all; but H----, more accustomed to the country, declared it was not so
+bad, at least he averred that there were other roads much worse. The
+jolting we got over the ruts and stones exceeded anything in my previous
+experience. How the cart kept itself together was a marvel to me, but it
+accommodated itself by a kind of snakelike movement, not characteristic
+of wheeled vehicles in general. Except for the honour and glory of
+driving, I would as lief have walked, and I think have done the journey
+nearly as soon; but my friend observed, "It was no good giving into bad
+roads down in this part of the world."
+
+At one of the worst turnings we met several bullock-carts filled with
+iron pyrites from the copper-smelting. The custom of the drivers of
+these carts is to stop at the bottom of a steep bit of hill, and then
+put five or six pairs of oxen to draw up one cart. The process is a slow
+one, but is better for the oxen. We had great difficulty in passing in
+safety, for unluckily at the spot we met them the trees were so thick
+that they literally walled up the road, and on the other side there
+chanced to be a very uninviting precipice, and of course we had the
+place of honour.
+
+Soon after this little excitement was over we came upon a fine view of
+the Danube, with a long stretch of Servian forests beyond. On we jolted,
+till at length New Moldova was reached: this place has
+smelting-furnaces, and in the neighbourhood are extensive copper mines.
+The district is known as the Banat of Temesvar, an extensive area of the
+most fertile land in Europe; rich black soil, capable of growing any
+number of crops in succession without dressing. This part of Hungary
+supplies the finest white flour, so much esteemed by the Vienna bakers,
+and now sought after by the pastrycooks in England.
+
+There was a fair going on at New Moldova, which afforded me an
+opportunity of seeing the peasants in their gala dresses. The place is
+renowned for its pretty Wallack girls, and I certainly can bear witness
+that I saw not a few handsome faces. But what struck me most was the
+graceful movements of these damsels: their manner of walking was the
+very poetry of motion. I daresay it was the more striking to me because
+I had recently come from England, where fashion condemns the wearers of
+high-heeled shoes to a rickety waddle! Even here, in these wilds,
+fashion maintains a despotic rule. I understand black hair is the thing
+at present, so every Wallack maiden dyes her hair to the regulation
+colour, though Nature, who never makes a mistake, may have matched her
+complexion with auburn locks.
+
+The costume is very pretty and peculiar; it consists of a loose chemise,
+a short skirt of homespun, with a double apron front and back, formed of
+a very deep thick fringe of various colours. This peculiar garment is
+called an _obreska_; I think it has no counterpart in female fashions
+elsewhere. When the under-garment is white and fresh the effect is very
+good; but in the case of the very poor, if there are but scanty rags
+beneath, then, to speak mildly, the fringe is an inefficient covering.
+But to-day every damsel is in her best; and how jauntily she wears the
+coloured scarf twisted round her head, which falls in graceful folds!
+The Wallacks generally have their bare feet covered, not with boots, but
+with thongs of leather, something in the form of a sandal. The Servian
+women dress quite differently, wear tight-fitting garments, richly
+embroidered when their means permit. The men also figure largely in
+embroidery.
+
+In the evening the peasants had a dance on the open space in front of
+the _czarda_, or village inn. Of course we were there to look on. I
+should observe that we had arranged to stay the night at Moldova, for
+the afternoon had been taken up in visiting a large manufactory for
+sulphuric acid in the neighbourhood. The dance which wound up the day's
+amusements can be easily described. "Many a youth and many a maid" form
+a wide circle with arms interlaced, they move round and round in a
+marzurka step to the sound of music. It appeared to me rather slow and
+monotonous. I do not know whether the figure breaks up, leaving each
+couple more to their own devices; but we left them still revolving in a
+circle.
+
+The following morning we were off on our travels again. A short drive
+took us to Old Moldova, a village within the Military Frontier,
+regularly constructed, with guardhouse and other Government buildings,
+facing the Danube. At this point begins the splendid road by the side of
+the river, made by the Hungarian Government in 1840. It reaches as far
+as Orsova, taking the left bank of the Danube. It would have been easier
+to have followed Trajan's lead, and have made the road on the right
+bank; but there were political reasons for deciding otherwise. The
+Hungarian Government, as a matter of course, would only construct this
+great work within their own territory: the other side of the river is
+Servian. The engineering difficulties in making this road were very
+great, but they have been everywhere overcome, and the result is a
+splendid piece of work.
+
+Arriving at the Danube, we took a steamboat that would land us in
+Milanovacz in Servia. The scenery here is magnificent; we were now in
+the defile of Kasan. The waters of the mighty river are contracted
+within a narrow gorge, which in fact cleaves asunder the Carpathian
+range for a space of more than fifty miles. The limestone rock forms a
+precipitous wall on either side, rising in some places to an altitude of
+more than two thousand feet sheer from the water's edge. The scenery of
+this wonderful pass is very varied; the bare rock with its vertical
+precipice gives place to a disturbed broken mass of cliff and scaur,
+flung about in every sort of fantastic form, or towering aloft like the
+ruined ramparts of some Titan's castle. Over all this a luxuriant
+vegetation has thrown a veil of exceeding beauty.
+
+The fact of the Danube forcing its way through the Carpathian chain in
+this remarkable manner is a very interesting problem to the geologists,
+and deserves more careful investigation at their hands than perhaps it
+has yet received. They seem pretty well agreed in saying that there
+must have been a time when the waters were bayed back, and when the vast
+Hungarian plain was an inland sea or great lake.
+
+Professor Hull, in a recent paper on the subject,[2] states the fact of
+the plains of Hungary being "overspread by sands, gravels, and a kind of
+mud called _loess_, or by alluvial deposits underlaid by fresh-water
+limestones, which may be considered as having been formed beneath an
+inland lake, during different periods of repletion or partial
+exhaustion, dating downwards from the Miocene period."
+
+The Professor goes on to say that "at intervals along the skirts of the
+Carpathians, and in more central detached situations, volcanoes seem to
+have been in active operation, vomiting forth masses of trachytic and
+basaltic lava, which were sometimes mingled with the deposits forming
+under the waters of the lakes. The connection of these great sheets of
+water with these active volcanic eruptions in Hungary has been pointed
+out by the late Dr. Daubeny. The gorge of Kasan, and the ridge about 700
+feet above the present surface of the stream, appear to have once barred
+the passage of the river. At this time the waters must have been pent
+up several hundred feet above the present surface, and thus have been
+thrown back on the plains of Hungary. It was only necessary that the
+barrier should be cut through in order to lay dry these plains by
+draining the lakes. This was probably effected by the ordinary process
+of river excavation, and partly by the formation of underground channels
+scooped out amongst the limestone rocks of the gorge. These two modes of
+excavation acting together may have hastened the lowering of the channel
+and the drainage of the plains above considerably; nevertheless the time
+required for such a work must have been extended, and it would appear
+that while the great inland lakes were being drained, the volcanic fires
+were languishing, and ultimately became extinct. Hungary thus presents
+us with phenomena analogous to those which are to be found in the
+volcanic district of Central France." It is a significant fact that even
+at the present day the waters of the Platten See and other lakes and
+swamps are diminishing, showing that the draining process is still going
+on.
+
+The extent of the great lake of prehistoric times is forcibly brought
+before us by the fact that the Alfoeld, or great plain of Hungary,
+comprises an area of 37,400 square miles! Here is found the _Tiefland_,
+or deep land, so wonderfully fertile that the cultivator need only
+scratch the soil to prepare it for his crop.
+
+As it only took us four hours by steamer to go from Alt Moldova to
+Milanovacz, we calculated that we might reach Maidenpek, our destination
+in Servia, the same day by borrowing a few hours from the night, as an
+Irishman would say. However, it turned out that there was so much
+bargaining and dawdling about at Milanovacz before we could settle on a
+conveyance that we did not get away till six o'clock--too late a great
+deal, considering the rough drive we had before us. Immediately after
+starting we began to wind our way up the mountain. The views were
+splendid. The Danube at this part again spreads out, having the
+appearance of a lake something like the Rhine near Bingen. We looked
+right over into Transylvania and Roumania from the commanding position
+afforded by the terraced road up which we slowly toiled.
+
+We had hardly gained the highest point when we remarked that the sky was
+becoming rapidly overcast by clouds from the west. Our Servian driver
+swore it would not rain; he knew the signs of the weather, he said, but
+as he applied the whip and galloped his horses at every available
+opportunity, it was clear he had an inner consciousness of coming
+trouble. The road now led through a forest. Here and there a gap in the
+thick foliage gave us a glimpse of the distant landscape, and of the
+curious atmospheric effects produced by the coming storm. The clouds
+rolled up behind us in dense masses, throwing the near mountains into
+deep shadow, while the plain far beneath was flooded with bright
+sunshine.
+
+The effect, however, was transitory, for the dark shadow soon engulfed
+the distant plain, blurring the fair scene even while we looked upon it.
+The change was something marvellous, so sudden and so complete. Up to
+this time the air had been still, and very hot; but suddenly a fierce
+wind came upon us with a hoarse roar--almost like the waves of the
+sea--up the valley and over the hill-top it came, right down upon us,
+tearing at the forest-trees. The branches, in all the full foliage of
+leafy June, swayed to and fro as the wind went roaring and shrieking
+down the hillside; the next moment the earth shook with the clap of a
+terrific burst of thunder.
+
+The horses stood still and shuddered in their harness, and it was with
+difficulty they were made to go on. It was evident the storm was right
+over us, for now succeeded flash upon flash of forked lightning, with
+thunder-claps that were instantaneous and unceasing.
+
+At the same time the windows of heaven were opened upon us, or rather
+the sluices of heaven it seemed to me; for the rain descended in sheets,
+not streams, of water. Without any adventitious difficulties, the road
+was as objectionable as a road could be; deep ruts alternated with now a
+bare bit of rock strewn with treacherous loose stones, and now a sharp
+curve with an ugly slant towards the precipice.
+
+About half an hour after the storm first broke upon us it had become
+night, indeed it was so dark that we could hardly see a pace in advance.
+The repeated flashes of lightning helped us to make out our position
+from time to time, and we trusted to the horses mainly to get us along
+in the safe middle course. At moments when the heavens were lit up, I
+could see the swaying branches of the fir-trees high above us battling
+with the wind, for we were still in the forest. The sound of many waters
+around on every side forcibly impressed us with the notion that we must
+be washed away--a result not by any means improbable, for the road we
+traversed was little better than a watercourse.
+
+I have experienced storms in Norway, and in the Swiss and Austrian Alps,
+but I never remember anything to equal this outburst of the elements.
+
+To stop still or to go forward was almost equally difficult, but we
+struggled on somehow at the rate, I should think, of a mile and a half
+in the hour. The horses were thoroughly demoralised, as one says of
+defeated troops, and stumbled recklessly at every obstacle. The driver
+was a stupid fellow, without an ounce of pluck in his composition, and
+declared more than once that he would not go on, preferring to stop
+under such shelter as the trees afforded. We were of another mind, and
+insisted on his pushing on. One of us walked at the horses' heads, and
+thus we splashed and blundered on for three mortal hours, wishing all
+the time that we had slept at Milanovacz. The route became so much worse
+that I declared we must have missed the track. We were apparently in a
+deep gully, traversed by a mountain torrent hardly a foot below the
+level of our road; but the Servian said he knew we were "all right," and
+that we should come directly to a house where we could get shelter.
+
+He had hardly spoken when H---- descried some lights not very far ahead,
+and in less than ten minutes we came alongside a good-sized hut, which
+turned out to be the welcome wine-shop the driver had promised us. Here
+was a roof anyhow, so we entered, hoping for supper and beds in the
+wayside inn. All our host could produce was a very good bottle of
+Servian "black" wine and some coarse bread of the country, so stale
+that we could hardly break it. This wine, which is almost as black as
+ink, comes from Negotin, lower down the Danube, and is rather a
+celebrated vintage I was informed.
+
+It was only in my untravelled mind that the idea of "beds" existed at
+all. H---- knew better than to expect anything of the kind. All we could
+do was to examine the place we were in with reference to passing the
+night. The floor of the room consisted of hard stamped clay, which from
+the drippings of our garments had become damp and slightly adhesive to
+the tread. The furniture consisted of a few rough stools and three
+tables. There was no question of any other apartment, there being only a
+dark hole in the rear sacred to the family, into which every sense we
+possessed forbade us to intrude. In peering about with the candles we
+found that the floor was perfectly alive with insects--such strange
+forms, awful in their strangeness--interesting, I daresay, to the
+entomologist, but simply disgusting to one not given to collecting
+specimens.
+
+If I were dying I could not have laid myself down on that floor, so we
+dragged the three tables together. They were provokingly uneven, but
+with the aid of a sheepskin _bunda_, and our carpet-bags for pillows,
+we contrived something upon which to rest our tired limbs. I should
+observe we had partially dried ourselves by a miserable fire fed with
+wet wood; in fact, everything was wet--our plaids were soaked, and were
+useless as coverlets.
+
+We had agreed to keep one candle burning, with the further precaution
+that we should sleep and tie through the night; for it was a
+cut-throat-looking place, and the countenance of the ordinary Servian is
+not reassuring. It fell to my lot to have the first watch, and I lay
+awake staring at the roof, no great height above us. Its dirt-stained
+rafters were lit up by the candle, and I soon became aware that the
+mainbody of the insects was performing a strategic movement highly
+creditable to the attacking party--they dropped down upon us from the
+beams! I will not pursue the subject farther, but as long as the candle
+burned I did not sleep a wink. I suppose I must have dozed off towards
+morning, for H---- roused me from a state of semi-unconsciousness, and
+"up we got and shook our lugs."
+
+The first thing I saw on pushing open the door was the steaming carcass
+of a sheep hung just outside, with a pool of blood on the very
+threshold! In many places in Eastern Europe they have the disgusting
+habit of slaughtering the animals in the middle of the street.
+
+As soon as we had swallowed a cup of hot coffee, which is always good in
+this part of the world, we lost no time in clearing out of the wretched
+hovel where we had passed the night. On every side there were traces of
+last night's tempest--trees uprooted and lying across the road, walls
+blown down, and watercourses overflowing. It came to my knowledge later
+that we got part of the same storm that had fallen with such devastating
+fury on Buda-Pest just twenty-four hours earlier.[3]
+
+It is a fact worth noting that this storm affected a large area of
+Europe, travelling north-west to south-east. A friend writing from the
+neighbourhood of Dresden made mention of a severe storm on the 24th of
+June; it broke upon Buda on the 26th, reaching us down in Servia on the
+27th.
+
+[Footnote 2: Hungary and the Lower Danube, by Professor Hull, F.R.S., in
+Dublin University Magazine, March 1874.]
+
+[Footnote 3: Extract of a private letter, dated Buda-Pest, June 28th,
+from Mr Landor Crosse, which appeared in the 'Daily News,' July 6, 1875:
+"We have had one of the most dreadful storms that has happened here in
+the memory of man. I must tell you that on Saturday evening I was taking
+my coffee and cigar in the beautiful gardens of the Isle St Marguerite,
+opposite Buda-Pest, when a little after six o'clock a fearful hurricane
+arose very suddenly, sweeping over us with terrific force. Branches of
+trees were carried along like feathers. After this came a dreadful
+thunderstorm, accompanied by rain and hail, the hail breaking windows
+right and left, even those that were made of plate-glass. The hailstones
+were on an average the size of walnuts, and some very much larger. Two
+trees were struck by lightning within thirty yards of me. I had a narrow
+escape, for these large trees were shattered, and the fragments
+dispersed by the hurricane; it was an awful moment, and I shall never
+forget it as long as I live.
+
+"Yesterday I went over to the Buda side, where twenty houses have been
+entirely washed away. Nearly the whole of the town is flooded, and every
+street converted into a river five or six feet in depth. It is estimated
+that more than two hundred people have been drowned.... On Sunday
+morning I saw the Danube bearing swiftly away the terrible wreckage of
+the storm. There were large articles of furniture, the bodies of men,
+women, and children, together with horses and cows, all floating on the
+whirling waters.... It rained a waterspout for nearly five hours, and in
+consequence the small valleys leading down from the mountain were in
+some places thirty feet deep, for a time, in rushing water.... The
+tramways in some places are destroyed; the mountain railway wrecked; the
+vineyards on the hillside simply ruined.... You will scarcely credit me
+when I tell you that a house situated at the bottom of the valley and
+near the railway station was literally battered in by a _drift_ of
+hailstones. The doors and windows were burst in before the inmates could
+escape, and they were actually buried alive in ice. When I saw the house
+twenty-two hours afterwards it was still four feet deep in hailstones,
+though they had been clearing them away with spades. Just as I got there
+they recovered the body of a poor woman who had perished. From this
+spot, and for about a mile up the valley, no less than fifty-seven
+bodies were found."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+     Maidenpek--Well-to-do condition of Servians--Lady Mary Wortley
+     Montague's journey through Servia--Troubles in Bulgaria--Communists
+     at Negotin--Copper mines--Forest ride--Robbers on the
+     road--Kucainia--Belo-breska--Across the Danube--Detention at
+     customhouse--Weisskirchen--Sleeping Wallacks.
+
+
+We reached Maidenpek without further mishap, and here I began to make
+inquiries again about a horse. I was informed that in some of the
+villages farther up I should be sure to find the sort of horse I wanted,
+and not sorry for an excuse for exploring the country, I agreed to go,
+at the same time getting my friend to join me.
+
+We hired some horses for the expedition, and set off, a party of four:
+three Englishmen (for we had picked up a friend at Maidenpek) and a Serb
+attendant, who was to act as our guide. He rode a small plucky horse,
+being armed with a long Turkish gun slung over his shoulder, while his
+belt was stuck full of strange-looking weapons, worthy of an
+old-curiosity shop. We were mounted on serviceable little nags, and had
+also our revolvers.
+
+The ride was truly enjoyable. We soon left the road, and took our way
+along a forest path in Indian file, our picturesque guide leading the
+way. The path came to an end before long, and we then followed the
+course of a little stream; but as it wound about in a most tortuous
+manner we were obliged to be continually crossing and recrossing.
+Sometimes we rode through a jungle of reeds, at least eight feet high;
+then we had to scramble up a sandy bank. The horses were like cats, and
+did their scrambling well; and at rare intervals we found ourselves on a
+fair stretch of open lawn which fringes the dense forest. There were
+bits here and there which reminded one of Devonshire, where the
+luxuriant ferns dipped their waving plumes into the cool waters of the
+rocky stream. In the forest, too, there were exquisite fairy-spots,
+where, as Spenser says, is found "beauty enregistered in every nook."
+
+After a time the way grew more wild in the character of the scenery, and
+at length the route we took was so rough that we had to dismount and
+lead our horses up the side of a steep hill. It was tiresome work, for
+the heat was intense; but gaining the top, we were rewarded by a grand
+view of the Balkan Mountains rising directly south. We ought to have
+made out Widdin and a stretch of the Danube at Palanka; but the middle
+of the day is the worst time for the details of a distant view.
+
+Shortly after this we arrived at a small uncivilised-looking village.
+The men were powerfully built in point of figure, and the women rather
+handsome. Both sexes wear picturesque garments. This village, like many
+others of the same kind, we found encircled by plum-orchards. Thousands
+of barrels of dried plums are sent from Servia every year, not only to
+Western Europe, but to America. Besides the consumption of the fruit in
+its innocent form of prunes, it is made into the spirit called
+_slivovitz_, the curse of Hungary and Roumania.
+
+We made a halt at this village, and sent out a man to look up some
+horses. He brought in several, but none of them were strong enough for
+my purpose. It was then proposed that we should ride on to the next
+village. Here we got dinner but no horses. The meal was very simple but
+not unpalatable, finishing up with excellent Turkish coffee.
+
+I am writing now of the _status quo ante bellum_, and I must say I was
+struck with the well-to-do aspect of the peasants in Servia. By peasants
+I mean the class answering to the German _bauer_. It is true they lack
+many things that Western civilisation regards as necessaries; but have
+they not had the Turks for their masters far into this century? Turning
+over Lady Mary Wortley Montague's Letters,[4] there occurs the
+following paragraph in her account of a journey through Servia in
+1717:--
+
+"We crossed the deserts of Servia, almost quite overgrown with wood,
+through a country naturally fertile. The inhabitants are industrious;
+but the oppression of the peasants is so great, they are forced to
+abandon their houses, and neglect their tillage, all they have being a
+prey to janissaries whenever they please to seize upon it. We had a
+guard of five hundred of them, and I was almost in fears every day to
+see their insolencies in the poor villages through which we passed.... I
+was assured that the quantity of wine last vintage was so prodigious
+that they were forced to dig holes in the earth to put it in. The
+happiness of this plenty is scarcely perceived by the oppressed people.
+I saw here [Nissa] a new occasion for my compassion. The wretches that
+had provided twenty waggons for our baggage from Belgrade hither for a
+certain hire being all sent back without payment, some of their horses
+lamed, and others killed, without any satisfaction made for them. The
+poor fellows came round the house weeping and tearing their hair and
+beards in a most pitiable manner, without getting anything but drubs
+from the insolent soldiers. I would have paid them the money out of my
+own pocket with all my heart, but it would only have been giving so much
+to the aga, who would have taken it from them without any remorse....
+The villagers are so poor that only force would extort from them
+necessary provisions. Indeed the janissaries had no mercy on their
+poverty, killing all the poultry and sheep they could find, without
+asking to whom they belonged, while the wretched owners durst not put in
+their claim for fear of being beaten. When the pashas travel it is yet
+worse. These oppressors are not content with eating all that is to be
+eaten belonging to the peasants; after they have crammed themselves and
+their numerous retinue, they have the impudence to exact what they call
+_teeth-money_, a contribution for the use of their teeth, worn with
+doing them the honour of devouring their meat."
+
+This is a lively picture of Turkish rule a century and a half ago; it
+helps us to understand the saying, "Where the Turk treads, no grass
+grows."
+
+The insurrection in Bulgaria had just broken out when I was in Servia: I
+cannot say I heard it much talked of; we, none of us, knew then the
+significance of the movement. But great uneasiness was felt in reference
+to the wide spread of certain communistic doctrines. A disturbance was
+stated to have taken place a few days before at Negotin. The foreign
+owners of property expressed themselves very seriously alarmed about the
+communistic propagandists who were going round the country. No one
+seemed certain as to the course events would take.
+
+However--to resume my own simple narrative--after dining in the little
+village aforesaid, we set our faces again towards Maidenpek, returning
+by another route, which afforded us some very romantic scenery. I
+finished the difficulty about the horse by purchasing the one I had
+ridden that day. He was smaller than I liked, but he had proved himself
+strong and sure footed. I cannot say he was a beauty, but what can one
+expect for seventeen ducats--about eight pounds English?
+
+The second day of our stay at Maidenpek was principally devoted to
+inspecting some copper mines belonging to an English company. They
+appeared to be doing pretty well. We next arranged to ride over to
+Kucainia, a place some twenty-five miles off. It was settled that we
+were to start at seven o'clock in the morning, but a dense white fog
+obliterated the outer world--we might have been on the verge of Nowhere.
+It was more than two hours before the fog lifted sufficiently to enable
+us to proceed. We went on our way some three miles when a drenching
+shower came on, and we took shelter in the cavernous interior of an
+enormous, half-ruined oak-tree. Natural decay and the pickaxes of the
+woodman seeking fuel for his camp-fire had hollowed out a comfortable
+retreat from the storm. Surrounding the tree was a bed of wild
+strawberries, which helped to beguile the time. When at length the
+clouds cleared away, we resumed our saddles with dry jackets. But, as it
+turned out, the half-hour we spent under the tree lost us the chance of
+some fun.
+
+I must remark that our road lay the whole way through a majestic forest.
+We were actually on the highroad to Belgrade, yet in many places it was
+nothing more than a grass-drive with trees on either side. Looking some
+way ahead when we found ourselves on a track of this kind, we observed
+in the distance two men on horseback standing their horses in the middle
+of the road, apparently waiting for some one to pass. One of the
+fellows, armed with the usual long Turkish gun, seeing our approach,
+came forward as if to meet us. We instinctively looked to our revolvers,
+but as he came up we saw that the stranger on the black horse (he must
+have been _once_ a splendid roadster) had no sinister intentions upon
+us. It turned out that he was the pope from a neighbouring village. He
+was in a great state of excitement, but shook hands with us all round
+before uttering a word. He then told us that the diligence from Belgrade
+had been stopped only half an hour ago by five brigands at the bottom of
+the very hill we had just passed. The booty was by no means
+insignificant. The robbers had made off with 7000 florins in gold; but
+what seemed rather significant was the statement that though the driver
+and the conductor of the diligence were both well armed, they had
+offered but little or no resistance. They declared they were overpowered
+by numbers. If there had been a shot fired we certainly must have heard
+it.
+
+Later we ascertained that the money belonged to the copper-mining
+company at Maidenpek; the loss was not theirs, however, as the
+Government would have to reimburse it. It was just like our ill-luck to
+wait out of the shower; but for that delay we should have come in for
+the affray. I have my doubts as to whether our assistance would have
+been particularly welcome to the driver of the diligence. Robbery on the
+highroad is a capital offence in Servia.[5]
+
+Arriving at the next village, we found the whole place in a hubbub and
+commotion. The men were arming and collecting horses. We went straight
+to the post-office to hear the rights of the story; the facts were
+mainly as I have related them. The excitement appeared to increase as
+the crowd flocked in from the fields. Horses were being saddled, powder
+served out, and arrangements made for a systematic battue of the
+robbers. After amusing ourselves by watching the warlike preparations,
+we rode on to Kucainia.
+
+We were hospitably received by a fellow-countryman who is working the
+mines there. We did justice to his capital dinner, and told our robber
+story, which our host capped with the rumours of a communistic rising
+down south.
+
+After a short stay at Kucainia, we made arrangements for returning over
+the Danube; but this time we proposed to strike the river at
+Belo-breska, higher up than Milanovacz. We had dropped our other friend,
+so H---- and I hired a light cart for the thirty miles to Belo-breska,
+my new horse meanwhile being tied on behind, and so we jogged along. The
+road was good, but, like the good people in Thackeray's novels, totally
+uninteresting. We drove continually through fields of maize--I say
+_through_ the fields, for there was no hedge or fence anywhere. The soil
+appeared to be splendidly fertile and well cultivated.
+
+Arrived at Belo-breska, our object was to get across the Danube, and
+luckily we found a large flat-bottomed boat used for cattle. The owner
+demanded a ducat (about nine shillings) for taking us across. I thought
+it a monstrous charge, but the fellow had us in his power. I do not
+think the Servians are much liked by those who have to do business with
+them. From all I heard, Canning's lines about the sharp practice of some
+nearer neighbours would apply very well to the Servians:--
+
+    "In matters of commerce the fault of the Dutch
+    Is giving too little, and asking too much."
+
+No sooner had we landed on the Hungarian side of the river than up came
+a customhouse official, who informed me that I must pay duty for my
+horse. Of course, as a law-respecting Briton, I was ready enough to
+comply; but the fellow could not tell me what the charge was, saying his
+chief was absent, and might not be back for some hours.
+
+This was exasperating to the last degree; the more so that it seemed so
+stupid that the man left in charge could not consult a tariff of taxes,
+or elicit from the villagers some information. He was stolidly
+obstinate, and refused to let my horse go at any price, though I offered
+him what H---- and I both thought a reasonable number of florins for the
+horse-duty. In less than ten minutes I had worked myself into a rage--a
+foolish thing to do with the thermometer at 96 deg. in the shade; but H----
+was provokingly calm, which irritated me still more. There is an old
+French verse which, rendered into English, says--
+
+    "Some of your griefs you have cured,
+      And the sharpest you still have survived;
+    But what torments of pain you endured
+      From evils that never arrived!"
+
+Now, a little patience would have saved me a useless ebullition of
+temper. While I was still at white-heat up came the head official;
+removing the cigar from his lips with Oriental dignity and deliberation,
+he calmly answered my question, and having paid the money we went our
+way.
+
+Our design was now to get to Weisskirchen, and sleep there, that place
+being the only decent quarters within reach. Our road was over the
+mountains--a lonely pass of ill repute. Several persons had been stopped
+and robbed in these parts quite recently. The Government had formerly a
+small guardhouse at the top of the pass; but it has been deserted since
+1867, when the district ceased to be maintained as the Military
+Frontier. Since that time crime has been very much on the increase all
+along the border-country. The lawlessness that is rampant at the
+extremities of the kingdom shows a weakness in the Central Government
+which is very reprehensible. But for this laxity on the borders, the
+recent Szeckler conspiracy for making a raid on the Russian railway
+could never have been projected.
+
+We arrived all right at Weisskirchen, which was good-luck considering
+the chances of an upset in the darkness, for night had overtaken us long
+before our drive was half over. Thoroughly tired, we were glad enough to
+draw up in the innyard, the same I had visited some weeks before; but
+great was our disgust at being told that there was not a bed to be
+had--every room was taken. We drove on to inn No. 2, where they had beds
+but no supper. We were nearly starving, for we had had nothing to eat
+since the morning, so back we had to go to No. 1 to procure supper. When
+this important meal was finished, we had to make the return journey once
+more. The streets were perfectly dark, and it was an affair of no small
+difficulty to find our way. It happened to me that I stepped into
+something soft and bumpy. I could not conceive what it was. I made a
+long step forward, thinking to clear the obstacle, but I only stumbled
+into another soft and bumpy thing. Was it a flock of sheep lying packed
+together? The skins of the sheep were there, it is true, but as covering
+for the forms of prostrate Wallacks. A lot of these fellows, wrapped in
+their cloaks, were sleeping huddled together at the side of the street.
+I found afterwards that this is a common practice with these people. The
+wonderful _bunda_ is a cloak by day and a house by night.
+
+[Footnote 4: Letters and Works, edited by Lord Wharncliffe, 1837, p.
+351, 359.]
+
+[Footnote 5: The robbers were subsequently taken and executed.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+     Variety of races in Hungary--Wallacks or
+     Roumains--Statistics--Savage outbreak of the Wallacks in former
+     years--Panslavic ideas--Roumanians and their origin--Priests of the
+     Greek Church--Destruction of forests--Spirit of
+     Communism--Incendiary fires.
+
+
+The mixture of races in Hungary is a puzzle to any outsider. There is
+the original substratum of Slavs, overlaid by Szeklers, Magyars, German
+immigrants, Wallacks, Rusniacks, Jews, and gipsies. An old German writer
+has quaintly described the characteristics of these various peoples in
+the following manner:--
+
+"To the great national kitchen the Magyar contributes bread, meat, and
+wine; the Rusniack and Wallack, salt from the salt pits of Marmaros; the
+Slavonian, bacon, for Slavonia furnishes the greatest number of fattened
+pigs; the German gives potatoes and vegetables; the Italian, rice; the
+Slovack, milk, cheese, and butter, besides table-linen, kitchen
+utensils, and crockery ware; the Jew supplies the Hungarian with money;
+and the gipsy furnishes the entertainment with music."
+
+Coming to hard facts, the latest statistics of M. Keleti give 15,417,327
+as the total population of Hungary. Of these 2,470,000 are Wallacks, who
+since the nationality fever has set in desire to be called Roumains; and
+if you say Roman at once, they will be still better pleased. They were
+in old time the overflow of Wallachia, now forming part of the Roumanian
+Principality. The first historical irruption of the Wallacks was about
+the end of the fourteenth century, when they became a terrible pest to
+the German settlers in Transylvania, dreaded by them as much as Turk or
+Tartar. They burned and pillaged the lands and villages of the peaceful
+dwellers in the Saxon settlement; but at length they had become so
+numerous that the law took cognisance of their existence and reduced
+them to a state of serfdom, from which they were not relieved till 1848.
+
+A subject race has always its wrongs, and there is no doubt the haughty
+Magyar nobles treated the Wallacks with great harshness and indignity.
+It was the old story--good masters were kind to their serfs, but those
+less fortunate had a bad time of it, what with forced labour and other
+burdens. "A lord is a lord even in hell" is the saying of the peasants.
+
+Mr Paget[6] tells the story of an old countess he met in Transylvania,
+who used to lament that "times were sadly changed, peasants were no
+longer so respectful as they used to be; she could remember walking to
+church on the backs of the peasants, who knelt down in the mud to allow
+her to pass over them without soiling her shoes. She could also
+remember, though less partial to the recollection, a rising of the
+peasantry, when nothing but the kindness with which her mother had
+generally treated them saved her from the cruel death which many of her
+neighbours met with."
+
+The rising here mentioned took place in 1784, when two Wallacks named
+Hora and Kloska were the leaders of a terrible onslaught upon the Magyar
+nobles. The Vienna Government was accused on this occasion of being very
+tardy in sending troops to quell the insurrection. It was the time when
+the unpopular reforms of Joseph II. were so ill received by the Magyars,
+and no good feeling subsisted between Hungary and the Central
+Government.
+
+But the most frightful outbreak of the Wallacks was, as we all know,
+within living memory. You can hear from the lips of witnesses
+descriptions of horrors committed not thirty years ago in Transylvania.
+Entire villages were destroyed, whole families slaughtered, down to the
+new-born infant.
+
+The arms of the Wallacks were supplied by Austria, for whom they were
+acting as a sort of militia at the time of Hungary's war of
+independence. The Vienna Government has been very fond of playing off
+the Wallacks and the Slavs against the Magyars: they have kept the pot
+always simmering; if some fine day it boils over, they will have the fat
+in the fire.
+
+Of course in Southern Hungary one hears enough about the Panslavic
+movement, and Panslavic ideas. "The idea of Panslavism had a purely
+literary origin," observes Sir Gardiner Wilkinson in his book on
+Dalmatia. "It was started by Kolla, a Protestant clergyman of the
+Slavonic congregation at Pesth, who wished to establish a national
+literature by circulating all works written in the various Slavonic
+dialects.... The idea of an intellectual union of all these nations
+naturally led to that of a political one; and the Slavonians seeing that
+their numbers amounted to about one-third of the whole population of
+Europe, and occupied more than half its territory, began to be sensible
+that they might claim for themselves a position to which they had not
+hitherto aspired."
+
+But the Wallacks, or, as we will now call them, Roumains, are not Slavs
+at all; they are utterly distinct in race, though they are
+co-religionists with the Southern Slavs. "The Roumanians," says Mr
+Freeman,[7] "speak neither Greek nor Turkish, neither Slave nor
+Skipetar, but a dialect of Latin, a tongue akin not to any of their
+neighbours, but to the tongues of Gaul, Italy, and Spain." He is
+inclined to think these so-called Dacians are the surviving
+representatives of the great Thracian race.
+
+Who they were is, after all, not so important a question as what they
+are, these two millions and a half of Roumains in Hungary. To put the
+statistical figures in another way, Mr. Boner,[8] writing in 1865,
+calculates that the Roumains, naturalised in Southern Hungary, number
+596 out of every 1000 souls in Transylvania. The fecundity of the race
+is remarkable, they threaten to overwhelm the Saxons, whose numbers, on
+the other hand, are seriously on the decrease. They are also supplanting
+the Magyars in _Southern_ Hungary.
+
+I have myself seen villages which I was told had been exclusively
+Magyar, but which are now as exclusively Roumain. It is even possible to
+find churches where the service conducted in the Magyar tongue has
+ceased to be understood by the congregation.
+
+To meet a Roumain possessed even of the first rudiments of education is
+an exception to the rule: even their priests are deplorably ignorant;
+but when we find them in receipt of such a miserable stipend as 100
+florins, indeed in some cases 30 florins a-year, it speaks for itself
+that they belong to the poorest class. The Wallacks lead their lives
+outside the pale of civilisation; they are without the wants and desires
+of a settled life. Very naturally the manumission of the serfs in 1848
+found them utterly unprepared for their political freedom. Neither by
+nature or by tradition are they law-respecting; in fact, they are very
+much the reverse.
+
+The Roumain is a Communist pure and simple; the uneducated among them
+know no other political creed. It is not that of the advanced school of
+Communism, which deals with social theories, but a simple consistent
+belief that, as they themselves express it, "what God makes grow belongs
+to one and all alike." In this spirit he helps himself to the fruit in
+his neighbour's garden when too lazy to cultivate the ground for
+himself.
+
+This child of nature is by instinct a nomadic shepherd and herdsman; he
+hates forests, and will ruthlessly burn down the finest trees to make a
+clearing for sheep-pastures. It is impossible to travel twenty miles in
+the Southern Carpathians without encountering the terrible ravages
+committed by these people in the beautiful woods that adorn the sides of
+the mountains.
+
+"The Wallacks find it too much trouble to fell the trees," says Mr
+Boner. "They destroy systematically: one year the bark is stripped off,
+the wood dries, and the year after it is fired.... In 1862, near
+Toplitza, 23,000 _joch_ of forest were burned by the peasantry."
+
+Judging from what I saw during my travels in Hungary in 1875-76, I
+should say the evil described by Mr Boner ten years before has in no way
+abated. The Wallacks pursue their ruthless destruction of the forests,
+and the law seems powerless to arrest the mischief. At present there is
+wood and enough, but the time will come when the country at large must
+suffer from this reckless waste. There are about twenty-three million
+acres of forest in Hungary, including almost the only oak-woods left in
+Europe. The great proportion of the forest-land belongs to the State,
+hence the supervision is less keen, and the depredations more readily
+winked at. Riding one day with a Hungarian friend, I asked what would be
+the probable cost of a wooden house then building on the verge of the
+forest. My friend replied, laughing, "That depends on whether the
+builder stole the wood himself, or only bought it of some one else who
+had stolen it; he might possibly have purchased the wood from the real
+owner, but that is not very probable. So you see I really cannot tell
+you what the house will cost."
+
+Incendiary fires are very common in Hungary. Here, again, the Wallacks
+do their share of mischief. If they have a grudge against an active
+magistrate or a thriving neighbour, his farmstead is set on fire, not
+once, but many times probably. Added to this, the Wallack takes an
+actual pleasure in wanton destruction. As an instance, an English
+company who are working coal mines in the neighbourhood of Orsova have
+been obliged within the last two years to relay their railway from the
+mines to the Danube no less than three times, in consequence of the
+Wallacks persistently destroying the permanent way and stealing the
+rails.
+
+Notwithstanding all this the Wallacks are not without their good points.
+They become capital workmen under certain circumstances, and they
+possess an amount of natural intelligence which promises better things
+as the result of education. "Barring his weakness for tobacco and
+spirits, the much-abused Wallack is a useful fellow to the sportsman and
+the traveller," said a sporting friend of mine who visits Transylvania
+nearly every autumn.
+
+[Footnote 6: Hungary and Transylvania, 1839.]
+
+[Footnote 7: 'Geographical Aspect of the Eastern Question,' Fortnightly
+Review, January 1877.]
+
+[Footnote 8: Transylvania: its Products and People.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+     Paraffine-works in Oravicza--Gold mine--Coal mines at
+     Auima-Steirdorf--Geology--States Railway Company's mines--Bribery.
+
+
+The old copper and silver mines of Oravicza are now abandoned, but the
+industrial activity of the place is kept up by the working of coal
+mines, which have their depot here. The States Railway Company are the
+great owners of mines in this district. They confine their attention to
+iron and coal. There are extensive paraffine-works in Oravicza; the
+crude oil is distilled from the black shale of the Steirdorf coal,
+yielding five per cent of petroleum. At Moldova, where we were recently,
+the same company have large sulphuric acid works, employing as material
+the iron pyrites of the old mines. Moldova had formerly the reputation
+of producing the best copper in Europe, but the mines fell out of work,
+I believe, in 1848.
+
+An English gentleman is working a gold mine near Oravicza with some
+success. Subsequent to my visit his people came upon what I think the
+miners call a "pocket" of free gold. Bismuth is also raised, though not
+in large quantities.
+
+Wishing to see the coal mines at Steirdorf, I rode over the hills in
+about four hours. As I left Oravicza in the early morning the view
+appeared very striking. Looking back, I could see the little town
+straggling along in the shadow of the deeply-cleft valley, while beyond
+stretched the sunlit plain, level as a sea, rich with fields of ripe
+corn. The mists still lingered around me in the mountains, rolling about
+in the form of soft white masses of vapour, with here and there a
+fringed edge of iridescence. The cool freshness of the morning and the
+beauty of the varied scenery made the ride most enjoyable.
+
+Arriving at Steirdorf, I spent some hours in visiting the ironworks,
+blast-furnaces, coke-ovens, &c. The coal produced here is said to be the
+best in Hungary. The output, I am told, is 150,000 tons; but only
+one-third of this is sold, the rest being used by the States Railway
+Company for their own ironworks, and for the locomotive engines of their
+line.
+
+Professor Ansted,[9] who made a professional visit to this part of the
+country in 1862, remarks that "the iron is mined by horizontal drifts or
+kennels into the side of the hills. The coal is mined by vertical
+shafts. The ironstone is of the kind common to some parts of Scotland,
+and known as blackband. There are as many as eight principal seams."
+
+I had sent a man in advance from Oravicza to take my horse back, as I
+intended returning by rail. This mountain railway between Oravicza and
+Auima-Steirdorf is a remarkable piece of engineering work. In a distance
+of about twenty miles it ascends 1100 feet, in some parts as much as one
+foot in five. They have very powerful engines and a cogwheel
+arrangement, the line making a zigzag up the mountain-side. The effect
+is very curious in descending to see another train below you creeping
+uphill, now at one angle, now at another.
+
+Considering the expensive nature of the works, and the paucity of
+passengers, I almost wonder that the States Railway Company did more
+than construct a narrow gauge for the mineral traffic. This company, I
+believe, is of Austrian origin, assisted by French capital--in fact, its
+head office is in Paris. It obtained large concessions in the Banat
+during the Austrian rule in Hungary, acquiring a considerable amount of
+property at very much below its real value; in consequence the company
+is looked upon with some degree of jealousy by the Hungarians. Of
+forest-land alone it owns about 360 square miles. It has a large staff
+of officials, mostly Germans, who manage the woods and forests on a
+very complicated system, which pays well, but would probably pay better
+if simplified. It has also a monopoly of certain things in its own
+district, such as salt, &c.
+
+The prevalence of bribery is one of the causes seriously retarding
+progress in Hungary. There is as yet no wholesome feeling against this
+corruption, even amongst those who ought to show an example to the
+community. They have also a droll way of cooking accounts down in these
+parts, but there is a vast deal of human nature everywhere, so "let no
+more be said."
+
+[Footnote 9: A Short Trip in Hungary and Transylvania.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+     Mineral wealth of the Banat--Wild ride to Dognacska--Equipment for
+     a riding tour--An afternoon nap and its consequences--Copper
+     mines--Self-help--Bare insects--Moravicza--Rare minerals--Deutsch
+     Bogsan--Reschitza.
+
+
+The neighbourhood of Oravicza is well worth exploring, especially by
+those who like knocking about with a geological hammer. The mines in the
+Banat were perhaps worked earlier than any other in this part of Europe.
+The minerals of the district present a very remarkable variety. Von
+Cotta, I imagine, is the best authority upon the Banat ore deposits.
+
+I had heard a good deal of the silver and copper mines of Dognacska, and
+wishing to visit them, I induced my friend H---- to accompany me. We
+arranged to go on horseback. I was very glad to escape the "carts of the
+country," which, notwithstanding the atrocious roads, are the usual mode
+of conveyance. It had always been my intention to ride about the
+country, and with this view I brought my saddle and travelling apparatus
+from London--English-made articles bear knocking about so much better
+than similar things purchased on the Continent.
+
+I had an ordinary pigskin saddle, furnished with plenty of metal rings.
+I had four saddle-bags in all, made of a material known as waterproof
+flax cloth. It has some advantages over leather, but is too apt to wear
+into holes. It is of importance to have the straps of your saddle-bags
+very strongly attached. It is not enough that they are sewn an inch into
+the bag, they should extend down the sides; for want of this I had to
+repair mine several times. Attached to my bridle I had a very convenient
+arrangement for picketing my horse. It consisted of a rope about twelve
+feet long, neatly rolled round itself; this was kept strapped on the
+left side of the horse's head.
+
+The chief pride of my outfit was a cooking-apparatus, the last thing
+out, which merits a few words of description. It consisted of a round
+tin box, eight inches in diameter, capable of boiling three pints of
+water in two minutes and a half; of its own self-consciousness, the
+sauce-pan could evolve into a frying-pan, besides other adaptations,
+including space for a Russian lamp--a vessel holding spirit--with
+cellular cavities for salt, pepper, matches, not forgetting cup, spoon,
+and plate. The Russian lamp is a very useful contrivance, in case of
+open-air cooking; it gives a flame six or seven inches long, which is
+not easily affected by wind or draught.
+
+Amongst the stores I took out from England was some "compressed tea,"
+which is very portable. In riding, all powdery substances should be
+avoided; I had on one occasion practical experience of this. I had
+procured some horse-medicine, and giving my animal one dose, I packed
+the rest very carefully, as I thought; on opening my saddle-bag after a
+ride of twenty miles, I found, to my disgust, that this wretched white
+powder had mixed itself up with everything. I wished I had made the
+horse his own medicine-chest, and given him his three doses at once.
+
+Let the weather be ever so warm in Hungary, it is not wise to take even
+a day's ride without a good warm plaid; the changes of temperature are
+often very sudden, and herein is the danger of fever. The peasant says,
+"In summer take thy _bunda_ (fur cloak)."
+
+To complete the catalogue of my travelling appendages, I may mention a
+revolver, a bowie-knife, a compass, good maps of the country, and a
+flask. My flask held exactly a bottle of wine; it was covered with thick
+felt, which on being soaked in water has the effect of keeping the wine
+quite cool for an incredibly long time, even in the hottest weather. I
+have been told that the Arabs in the desert have long been up to this
+dodge with respect to their water-bottles, which are suffered to leak a
+little to keep up the evaporation. The food I carried was of course
+renewed from time to time, according to circumstances. Naturally I
+economised the lamp spirit whenever I could obtain sticks for boiling
+the water, as the spirit could not always be procured in the Hungarian
+villages.
+
+In starting for Dognacska and Reschitza, we had before us a ride of more
+than thirty miles through a very rough country, and with uncertain
+prospects of accommodation, so I took with me all my travelling
+"contraptions," as they say in the west of England. The weather was
+excessively hot the morning H---- and I started on our expedition. About
+noon, after we had ridden some two hours, the sun's rays beat down upon
+us with such force that we made an unintentional halt on coming to a
+well by the wayside. It was one of those picturesque wells so familiar
+in Eastern landscape--a beam balanced on a lofty pole, with a rod
+hanging from one end, to which is attached the bucket for drawing
+water.
+
+Not far from the well was one of those curious tree hay-stacks to be
+seen in some parts of Hungary. It is the practice to clear away a
+certain number of the middle branches of a tree, then a wooden platform
+is constructed, on which a quantity of hay is placed in store for winter
+use. This mushroom-shaped hay-rick receives a cover of thatch, out of
+the centre of which comes the tree-top.
+
+The shade afforded by this wigwam on stilts looked most inviting just
+then, and we yielded to the seduction. We got off, and throwing
+ourselves at full length on the grass, allowed our horses to graze close
+to us, without taking the trouble to picket them.
+
+The heat of the noonday was perfectly overpowering. The momentary shade
+was an intense relief, for we had been in the unmitigated glare of the
+sun the whole morning. Of course we quickly had out our cigar-cases, and
+puffing the grateful weed, we were soon in full enjoyment of dignified
+ease. We were in that idle mood when, one says with the lotus-eaters,
+"taking no care"--
+
+                        "There is no joy but calm!
+    Why should we only _toil_, the roof and crown of things."
+
+"Why, indeed, should we toil?" I repeated languidly, at the same time
+gently and slowly breaking off the end of my cigar-ash.
+
+"Why, indeed?" echoed my friend in a sleepy tone; and, unlike his usual
+wont, he was quite disinclined to argue the point, being too lazy for
+anything.
+
+In another moment we had both sprung to our feet, most thoroughly roused
+from our apathy; the fact was, a big brute of a sheep-dog suddenly
+jumped in upon us, barking loud and fiercely. We very soon found means
+to rid ourselves of the dog, but that was the least part of the
+incident. It appeared that the noise and suddenness of the outburst had
+so frightened our horses that they took to their heels and galloped off
+as hard as they could tear. Of course we were after them like a shot,
+but they had gone all manner of ways. I spotted my little Servian nag
+breasting the hill to our right in grand style; the saddle-bags were
+beating his flanks. A pretty race we had after those brutes of horses!
+We had to jump ditches, and struggle up sandbanks, tear through
+undercover, and finally H---- got "stogged" in a treacherous green
+marsh. Was there ever anything so exasperating and ridiculous?
+
+After running more or less for three-quarters of an hour in a sweltering
+heat, we came upon the horses in an open glade in the wood, where they
+were calmly regaling in green pastures, like lotus-eaters themselves.
+Never from that day forward have I forgotten the necessary duty of
+picketing my horse.
+
+It was well on in the afternoon before we got to Dognacska, a mere
+mining village, but prettily situated in a narrow valley. On
+approaching, we found it to be a more uncivilised place than we had
+expected, and we had not expected much. The children ran away screaming
+at the sight of two horsemen, so travellers, I expect, are unknown in
+these parts. We found out a little inn, indicated by a wisp of straw
+hanging above the door, and here we asked to be accommodated; they were
+profuse in promises, but as there was no one to look after the horses,
+we had to attend to them ourselves. The woman of the house said the men
+were all out, but would be back presently. We only took a little bread
+and cheese, but ordered a substantial supper to be ready for us on our
+return later in the evening. The fact was, we were in a hurry to be off
+to look at the works. Lead, silver, iron, and copper are found at
+Dognacska, but the working at present is a dead-alive operation. The
+blast-furnaces for making pig-iron are of recent construction, but the
+smelting-furnaces were very antiquated.
+
+It was the same answer everywhere, "All belongs to the Marquis of
+Carrabas;" in other words, the States Railway Company owns both mines
+and forests in all directions throughout the Banat, though at the same
+time I was told that they do not undertake metallic mining.
+
+From what I gathered it would seem that the mines round here are not
+really very rich. You cannot depend on the working as in Cornwall, for
+they are without regular lodes. A rich "pocket" occurs here and there,
+but then is lost, the deposit not holding on to any depth.
+
+We made a considerable round, and returned with appetites very sharp
+set, and counted on the chicken with _paprika_ that we had ordered to be
+ready for us. On arriving at the little inn, great was our disgust to
+find it utterly silent and deserted; neither man, woman, nor child was
+to be found in or about the place. With some difficulty we caught some
+children, who were peering at us behind the wall of a neighbour's house,
+and from these blubbering little animals, who I believe thought we were
+going to make mince meat of them, we at length extracted the fact that
+the people of the inn were gone off haymaking. This was really too bad,
+for if they had only told us, we could have made our arrangements
+accordingly, but here we were starving and not the remotest prospect of
+supper. There was no use wasting unparliamentary language, so I began
+foraging in all directions, while H---- busied himself in cutting up
+wood to make a fire, a process not too easy with an uncommonly blunt
+axe. My researches into the interior of the dwelling were not
+encouraging; the fowl was not there, neither was the _paprika_. At
+length I discovered some eggs and a chunk of stale bread stowed away in
+a corner; there were a great many things in that corner, but "they were
+not of my search"--ignorance is bliss.
+
+H---- had done his duty by the fire; he had even persuaded the water to
+boil, which I looked upon as the beginning of soup. Happily for us I had
+my co-operative stores with me. From the depths of one of my saddle-bags
+I drew out a small jar of Liebig's meat--a spoonful or two of this gave
+quality to the soup. I added ten eggs and some small squares of bread,
+flavouring the whole mess with a pinch of dried herbs, salt, and
+pepper--all from "the stores." The result was a capital compound: in
+fact I never tasted a better soup of its kind; we enjoyed it immensely.
+We had barely finished when in came the woman of the house; she looked
+very much surprised, grumbled at our making such a large fire, and made
+no apology for her absence.
+
+No one came in to clean and feed our horses, and though I offered a
+liberal _trinkgeld_ to any man or boy who would attend to them, not a
+soul could I get, they all slunk away. I believe they are afraid of
+horses at Dognacska. Self-help was the order of the day, and we just had
+to look after the poor brutes ourselves.
+
+We slept in the inn. My bed was made up in the place where I had found
+the eggs and bread. I imagine it was the "guest-corner." I do not wish
+to be sensational, and I am no entomologist, therefore I will not
+narrate my experiences that night; but I thought of the Irishman who
+said, "if the fleas had all been of one mind, they could have pulled him
+out of bed." Fortunately the summer nights are short; we were up with
+the early birds, and started before the heat of the day for Moravicza,
+another mining village.
+
+It was a pretty ride. We went for some way alongside a mineral tramway,
+which followed the bend of a charming valley. Then we came upon a new
+piece of road, made entirely of the whitest marble; it looked almost
+like snow. Afterwards our track lay through a dense forest of majestic
+trees. We could not have found our way unassisted, but one of the mine
+inspectors from Dognacska had been sent with us. It was a delicious
+ride, the air still cool and fresh. Sometimes we were in the forest,
+and later, skirting a rocky ravine, we followed for a while a mountain
+stream. It was rough work for the horses, and once, when leading my
+horse over a narrow foot-bridge, he slipped off and rolled right over in
+the bed of the stream. Luckily he was none the worse for the accident:
+these small Servian horses bear a great deal of knocking about. It was
+surprising that the baggage did not suffer, but except getting a little
+wet, there was no harm done.
+
+This district is famous, I believe, for several kinds of rare beetles
+and butterflies. I saw some beautiful butterflies myself during our
+ride.
+
+Before reaching Moravicza we passed some large iron mines, but they were
+not in full swing. In the last century the copper mines of this district
+yielded extraordinary returns. Baron Born, in his "Travels in the
+Banat," mentions a deposit of copper ore reaching to the amazing depth
+of 240 feet. Some very fine syenite occurs in large blocks close to
+Moravicza, which might be very valuable if made more accessible. The
+village is half hidden in a narrow valley. Here we were most hospitably
+received by Herr W----. In his collection of minerals he has many rare
+specimens from this locality, which is peculiarly rich in regard to
+variety. This gentleman kindly gave me some good specimens of magnetite,
+greenockite (sulphate of cadmium), aurichalcite, Ludwigite, and garnet.
+Leaving Moravicza, we rode on to Deutsch Bogsan, then to Reschitza,
+where we arrived in the evening. Here we found a tolerable inn, for it
+is a place of some size. We remained two days here; it is a flourishing
+little place, the centre of the States Railway Works. They make a large
+quantity of steel rails, any number of which will be wanted if half of
+the projected lines are carried out, which are only waiting the
+settlement of the Eastern Question.
+
+In Reschitza there are large blast-furnaces and Bessemer converters.
+Enormous quantities of charcoal are produced; in short, on all sides
+there is evidence of mining activity. Narrow-gauge lines run in every
+direction, serving the coal mines; there is besides a railway for the
+public from Reschitza to Deutsch Bogsan, and from the latter place a
+branch communicates with the main line between Buda-Pest and Basiash.
+
+The country round Reschitza is rather pretty, but more tame than what we
+had seen in other parts. We returned to Oravicza by a shorter route,
+riding the whole distance in one day, which we did easily, for the roads
+were not so bad, and it was not much over thirty miles. In Hungary it is
+frequently more a question of roads than of actual distance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+     Election at Oravicza--Officialism--Reforms--Society--Ride to
+     Szaszka--Fine views--Drenkova--Character of the
+     Serbs--Svenica--Rough night walk through the forest.
+
+
+We got back to Oravicza just in time to witness an election, which had
+been a good deal talked about as likely to result in a row. There were
+two candidates in the field: one a representative of the Wallachian
+party; the other a director of the States Railway Company. In
+consequence of a serious disturbance which took place some years ago,
+the elections are now always held outside the town. The voting was in a
+warehouse adjoining the railway station. A detachment of troops was
+there to keep order, in fact the two parties were divided from each
+other by a line of soldiers with fixed bayonets. It was extremely
+ridiculous. The whole affair was as tame as possible; no more show of
+fighting than at a Quakers' meeting. Of course the States Railway
+representative had it all his own way, the officials, whose name is
+legion, voting for him to a man. A trainful of Wallacks arrived from
+some distant place, but their ardour for their own candidate was drowned
+in the unlimited beer provided for them by their opponents.
+
+From what I heard about politics, or rather about the Parliament, it
+seems to me that their House of Commons, like our own, suffers from too
+many talkers. The Hungarian is at all times a great talker, and when
+politics open the sluices of his mind, his speech is a perfect avalanche
+of words. His conversation is never of that kind that puts you in a
+state of antagonism, as a North German has so eminently the power of
+doing; on the contrary, the listener sympathises whether he will or no,
+but on calmer reflection one's judgment is apt to veer round again.
+
+The members of the House of Commons number 441, and of these 39 are
+Croats, who are allowed to use their own language by special privilege.
+The members are paid five florins a-day when the House is sitting, and a
+grant of four hundred florins a-year is made for lodgings. There is this
+peculiarity about the Hungarian Parliament: hereditary members of the
+Upper House can if they choose offer themselves for election in the
+Lower House. Many of the hereditary peers do so, meanwhile resigning as
+a matter of course their seat in the Upper Chamber.
+
+The reform of 1848 extended the franchise so far that in point of fact
+it only stops short of manhood suffrage. The property qualification of a
+voter is in some cases as low as a hundred florins yearly income.
+Religious and political liberty was granted to all denominations. The
+disabilities of the Jews were suffered to remain a few years later; but
+in 1867 they were entirely removed, and at the present moment several of
+the most active members of Parliament are of the Jewish persuasion.
+Elections are triennial, an arrangement not approved by many true
+patriots, who complain that members think more of what will be popular
+with the constituents, whom they must so soon meet again, than of the
+effect of their votes on measures that concern the larger interests of
+the State.
+
+Oravicza was so seductive--with its pleasant society; its "land
+parties," as they call picnics; its evening dances, enlivened by gipsy
+music--that I remained on and on from want of moral courage to tear
+myself away. I had thoughts of changing my plans altogether, and of
+devoting myself to a serious study of the minerals of the Banat, making
+gay little Oravicza my head-centre. Looking back after the lapse of
+sober time, I doubt if science would have gained much. Well, well, I
+made up my mind to go. "The world was all before me," but I--left my
+paradise alone. I had no fair Eve "hand in hand" to help my wandering
+steps.
+
+I do think that packing one's portmanteau is the most prosaic thing in
+life. Shirts and coats must be folded, and one's possessions have a way
+of increasing which makes packing a progressive difficulty. However, at
+last I did persuade my portmanteau to shut, and forthwith despatched it,
+with some other heavy things, to Hatszeg, a small town in Transylvania,
+where I intended to be in the course of ten days.
+
+I was now bound for Uibanya, in the Valea Tissovitza, a few miles from
+Orsova on the Danube. There is an English firm down there engaged in
+working the coal mines, and I had an introduction to one of the
+partners. I rode from Oravicza to Szaszka--the place had become quite
+familiar to me by this time--and I slept there. The night was not long,
+for I left before sunrise. It is the only way to enjoy the ride; for the
+middle of the day in July is really too hot for exertion in this part of
+the world, and I found it was best to rest during the great heat of the
+day. From Szaszka I pushed on to Moldova, and judging from my former
+experience of driving the same road, I must say I prefer the saddle
+infinitely. I should observe that on leaving Szaszka I got into a dense
+mist on the top of the mountain. Fortunately I knew my bearings. When
+it cleared off I had a magnificent view all the way, reaching the Danube
+about nine o'clock. Here I spent the day and night at the house of Mr
+G----, with whom I was slightly acquainted, and who received me
+hospitably. The next morning very early I started for Svenica, a lovely
+ride along the Szechenyi road. I had been in the saddle from five to
+eleven A.M., and reaching Drenkova, I was not sorry to stop on
+account of the great heat. It has only a wretched inn, where myself and
+horse fared very badly. The Danube steamers are not unfrequently obliged
+to stop at Drenkova and reship their passengers into smaller boats. This
+happens when the water is low, and sometimes when the season is very dry
+the river has to be abandoned for the road. When the Eastern Question is
+settled a vast number of improvements are to be carried out on the
+Danube it is said. The first ought to be the deepening of the channel in
+this particular part of the river. There would surely be no great
+difficulty in removing the obstructions caused by the rocks. But there
+are always political difficulties creeping up in this part of the world
+to prevent the carrying out of useful works.
+
+My siesta over, I was off again, soon after three P.M., on my
+way to Svenica. I had a splendid view of the river, and stopped my
+horse more than once to watch the boatmen at their perilous work of
+shooting the rapids. Getting to Svenica soon after six o'clock, I made
+inquiries about the distance to Uibanya. No two people agreed, but the
+chief spokesman declared it was a couple of hours' walk, and he
+volunteered to show me the way. The inn was horribly dirty, as one might
+expect from the appearance of the village, which is inhabited entirely
+by Serbs, otherwise Rascians. It appears that a vast number of Slavs
+from Servia took refuge in Hungary at the end of the seventeenth
+century. Some were Roman Catholics, but they were mostly of the Greek
+Church. A colony settled at Buda. Lady Mary Wortley Montague, writing
+from that town in 1717, says that the Governor of Buda assured her that
+the Rascian colony without the walls would furnish him with 12,000
+fighting men at any moment. They were always a card in the hands of the
+Austrians against the Magyars.
+
+Leopold I. granted the Servian refugees very considerable privileges and
+immunities, causing thereby great jealousy among the Hungarians. Always
+favoured by the Government of Vienna, these people have invariably shown
+themselves pro-Austrian; and in 1848 they were destined to be a thorn in
+the side of the proud Magyars, who despised them, and took no pains to
+disguise the feeling, even at a moment so singularly unpropitious as the
+eve of their own rupture with Austria. It seems that in the month of May
+in that eventful year the Rascians sent a deputation to Pesth, to the
+Diet, setting forth certain grievances and demanding redress. The
+Magyars rejected their petition with haughty contempt, "a grievous
+fault," says General Klapka in his history. The result was that the
+Rascian deputies returned home in a state of great disgust at their
+reception, and immediately took up arms against the Hungarians. This was
+before the Government of Vienna had thrown off the mask. These facts are
+not without significance at the present time. The Rascians are strongly
+imbued with ideas of Panslavism, and now disdain any other name than
+that of Servians; it would be a great offence to call the humblest
+individual of the race by the old appellation of Rascian or Ratzen.
+These so-called Servian subjects of the crown of St. Stephen number
+about 800,000!
+
+The subject is worth mentioning at some length, because a good deal of
+confusion exists respecting this particular division of the great Slav
+family.
+
+Judging from what I saw of the inhabitants of Svenica, I think they have
+not progressed very far in the ways of civilisation. I could get nothing
+in the whole place but a piece of bread; but I was not to be balked of
+my tea, so I entered the principal room in the wretched little inn, and
+proceeded to take out my cooking apparatus. I was obliged to content
+myself with a thick fluid, which they called water; no better was to be
+procured. Now it happens that my spirit-lamp, when it begins to boil up,
+makes a tremendous row for two or three minutes, as if it meant to burst
+up with a general explosion. This circumstance, and my other novel
+proceedings, had attracted a lot of idlers round the door, and before
+the tea-making was over a number of Serbs and Wallacks crowded into the
+room in a state of excited curiosity, and it was with difficulty that I
+defended my tea-machine from absolute dismemberment. Though my horse and
+I had done a good day's work, I determined to push on to Uibanya, for it
+seemed to be not much more than a two hours' walk; moreover, I had been
+warned of the bad reputation of the people in the village. I had heard
+it was not an uncommon trick with them to steal a traveller's horse in
+the night, and quietly ship him over the Danube into Servia. I had no
+fancy for losing my possessions in this way, so altogether it seemed
+better to go on.
+
+When I started with the guide I had hired from Svenica, there was still
+a good half-hour before sunset. We commenced at once climbing a very
+steep and stony path, where I had to lead my horse; indeed at times it
+was very much like getting my horse over the top of a high-pitched roof,
+if such an exploit were possible. We shortly lost all trace of a path. I
+turned several times to look at the fine glimpses of the Danube far
+below us. Arriving at a fringe of wood, I was not a little surprised to
+see emerge from thence a sturdy Wallack, carrying the usual long staff,
+armed with an axe at one end. I say surprised, because he at once joined
+in with us, and though I had not seen him during our climb, I had my
+strong suspicions that he had followed us all the way. My guide spoke a
+little German, and I demanded of him in a sharp tone what the other
+fellow meant by joining us. My guide answered that he was afraid to
+return alone, for that presently we should get into "the forest, where
+it would be as dark as a cave," and he had asked the other man to come
+with us from Svenica. As according to his own account he had traversed
+the forest for nineteen years, I thought he might very well have gone
+back alone; besides, if there was any truth in what he said, why should
+he have made a mystery about his companion till we were some way on our
+journey?
+
+We were now on the outskirts of a thick forest, the sun had set in
+great beauty, but every hue of colour had now faded from "the trailing
+clouds of glory;" faded, indeed, so quickly that before the fact of
+twilight could be realised, it was already night! It was literally dark
+as a cave when we penetrated into the forest. My guide had a lantern,
+which he lighted; for it would, indeed, have been impossible to make any
+progress without the light. Though we were again in a path, the way was
+frequently barred by the trunks of fallen trees. We were still
+ascending, occasionally coming upon a steep rough bit, difficult for the
+horse on account of the loose stones. I think we must have looked very
+much like a party of smugglers. The ex-forester walked first, swinging
+his lantern as he moved; then came the Wallack volunteer, stumping along
+with axe-headed staff. He wanted very much to fall into the rear, but
+this I would not allow, and in a resolute tone ordered him forward. I
+followed with my little grey horse close upon the heels of my
+companions, keeping all the time a keen and suspicious eye upon their
+movements. They spoke together occasionally, but I was profoundly
+ignorant of what they said, not understanding a word of Wallachian.
+
+Where it was anyhow possible we went at a good pace, but the underwood
+and fallen trees hindered us a good deal. My guide told me to look out
+for wolves. These forests are said to be full of them in summer, and he
+added that a lot of pigs belonging to a neighbour of his had been
+carried off by the wolves only the night before. I took this opportunity
+of telling him that I was a dead shot, pointing to my revolver, which
+was handy; adding a piece of information that I made much of, namely,
+that I was expected at Uibanya.
+
+The doubts I felt about the honesty of the guide and the other fellow
+were increased by a suspicion that they were leading me the wrong way.
+We had been three hours in the forest, always ascending. Now I knew that
+my destination was situated in a valley. I asked repeatedly when we
+should get there, and invariably came the same short answer, "Gleich"
+(directly). I noticed that we were steadily walking in the same
+direction, for the trees being less thick I could keep my eye on the
+Polar star: this was so far satisfactory. Presently I saw a light or two
+in the distance, and before long we came to a cottage, the first in what
+turned out to be the little village of Eibenthal. Here we came upon a
+party of miners, who gave me the pleasant information that we were still
+an hour's walk from Uibanya! There was nothing for it but to go on. I
+confess I breathed more freely in the open; we were quite clear of the
+forest now. On we went, a regular tramp, tramp, through a long valley
+skirted with woods on either side. This last part of the walk seemed
+interminable. It was eighteen hours since I had started in the morning.
+I was physically weary, and I really believe I went off to sleep for a
+second or two, though my legs kept up their automatic motion. I am sure
+I must have slept, for I had a notion, like one has sometimes in sleep,
+of extraordinary extension of time. It seemed to me that for years of my
+life I had done nothing else than walk under the starlit sky into a vast
+cave of black darkness, which only receded farther and farther as the
+swinging of the lamp advanced with its monotonous vibration of light.
+
+It was just midnight when I descried a faint light in the distance. It
+grew as we tramped on. I knew therefore it was no deceptive star setting
+in the horizon, but the welcome firelight of a human habitation. This
+time it was my goal--Uibanya! I stopped for a moment and fired off a
+couple of shots to announce our approach, whereupon some of the people
+in the house rushed out to see what was up, and I made myself known by
+an English "halloo," and out of the darkness came a voice saying, "All
+right."
+
+"All's well that ends well," I said to myself as I paid my guide for
+his night's work. I looked round for the Wallack, but the fellow had
+sloped off!
+
+I was most kindly and hospitably received, and, O ye gods, with what an
+appetite I ate the excellent supper quickly prepared for me!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+     Hospitable welcome at Uibanya--Excursion to the Servian side of the
+     Danube--Ascent of the Stierberg--Bivouac in the woods--Magnificent
+     views towards the Balkans--Fourteen eagles disturbed--Wallack
+     dance.
+
+
+A couple of days after my arrival at Uibanya, my friend F---- kindly
+arranged a little expedition into Servia, with the object of making the
+ascent of the Stierberg, a mountain of respectable elevation, commanding
+very fine views. Our guide was the postmaster of Plavishovitza, who
+professed a knowledge of the country round about. We drove down to the
+Danube, and there crossed the river in a primitive "dug-out," and almost
+immediately commenced the ascent of the Stierberg. It became quite dark
+by the time we got half-way up the mountain; this we were prepared for,
+having made arrangements for camping out the night. We had brought with
+us an ample store of provisions, not forgetting our plaids. The heat was
+so great when we started that we dispensed with coats, and even
+waistcoats, and went on rejoicing in the cool freedom of our
+shirt-sleeves. Each wore a broad leather waist-belt, stuck round with
+revolvers and bowie-knives. I believe we looked like a couple of the
+veriest brigands. Had we only been spotted by a "correspondent," I make
+little doubt that we should have been telegraphed as "atrocities" to the
+London evening papers.
+
+The more civilisation closes round one, the more enjoyable is an
+occasional "try back" into barbarism. This feeling made the mere fact of
+camping out seem delightful. Our first care was to select a suitable
+spot; we found a clearing that promised well, and here we made a halt.
+We deposited our _batterie de cuisine_, arranged our plaids, and then
+proceeded to make a fire with a great lot of dried sticks and logs of
+wood. The fire was soon crackling and blazing away in grand style,
+throwing out mighty tongues of flame, which lit up the dark recesses of
+the forest.
+
+Now came the supper, which consisted of robber-steak and tea. I always
+stuck to my tea as the most refreshing beverage after a long walk or
+ride. I like coffee in the morning before starting--good coffee, mind;
+but in the evening there is nothing like tea. The robber-steak is
+capital, and deserves an "honourable mention" at least: it is composed
+of small bits of beef, bacon, and onion strung alternately on a piece of
+stick; it is seasoned with pinches of _paprika_ and salt, and then
+roasted over the fire, the lower end of the stick being rolled backwards
+and forwards between your two palms as you hold it over the hot embers.
+It makes a delicious relish with a hunch of bread.
+
+Our camp-fire and its surroundings formed a romantic scene. We had three
+Serbs with us as attendants, and there was F---- and myself, all seated
+in a semicircle to windward of the smoke. The boles of the majestic
+beech-trees surrounding us rose like stately columns to support the
+green canopy above our heads, and in the interstices of the leafy roof
+were visible spaces of sky, so deeply blue that the hue was almost lost
+in darkness; but out of the depths shone many a bright star in infinite
+brilliancy. The scene was picturesque in the highest degree. The
+flickering firelight, our Serbians in their quaint dresses moving about
+the gnarled roots and antlered branches of the trees, upon which the
+light played fitfully, and the mystery of that outer rim of darkness,
+all helped to impress the fancy with the charm of novelty.
+
+After supper was finished, and duly cleared away, we all disposed
+ourselves for sleep, taking care to have the guns ready at hand, for we
+might be disturbed by a wolf or a bear on his nightly rounds. Our
+attendants had previously collected some large logs of wood, large
+almost as railway-sleepers, to keep up a good fire through the night.
+Wrapping my plaid round me, I laid myself down, confident that I should
+sleep better than in the softest feather bed. I gave one more look at
+the romantic scene, and then turned on my side to yield to the
+drowsiness of honest fatigue.
+
+But, alas! there was no sleep for me. I had hardly closed my eyes when I
+was attacked by a regiment of mosquitoes. I was so tormented by these
+brutes that I never slept a wink. I sat up the greater part of the night
+battling with them; and what provoked me more was the tranquillity of
+F----'s slumbers. I could bear it no longer, so at three A.M. I
+woke him up, saying it was time for us to be stirring if we wanted to
+get to the top of the mountain to see the sun rise. I believe he thought
+I need not have called him so early, and grumbled a little, which was
+very unreasonable, for the fellow had been sleeping for hours to my
+knowledge. Rousing our Serbs, we set them about making preparations for
+breakfast; but when the water was boiled and the tea made, it turned out
+to be utterly undrinkable. The water-cask had had sour wine in it, and
+the water was spoiled. We consoled ourselves with the hope that we might
+get some sheep's milk on the mountain.
+
+We reached the summit of the Stierberg before five o'clock; it has no
+great elevation, but the position commands magnificent views of all the
+surrounding country. Advancing to the verge of the precipice overlooking
+the Danube, a sheer wall of rock 2000 feet in depth, we signalled our
+arrival by discharging our rifles simultaneously. This "set the wild
+echoes flying." Each cliff and scaur of the narrow gorge flung back the
+ringing sound till the sharp reverberations stirred the whole defile.
+Before the fusillade had ceased we beheld a sight I shall never forget.
+The sound had disturbed a colony of eagles, who make their nests in
+these rocky fissures. They flew out in every direction from the face of
+the cliff, and went soaring round and round, evidently in much alarm at
+the unwonted noise. We counted fourteen of these magnificent birds. I
+wanted to get a shot at one, but they never came near enough. After
+circling round for several minutes they flew with one accord to the
+opposite woods, and were no more seen.
+
+The view from the Stierberg is splendid. On every side were stretches of
+primeval forest. Bounding the horizon on the north-east we made out the
+Transylvanian Alps; to the south lay Servia, and more distant still the
+Balkan Mountains. As the sun rose higher, lighting up in a marvellous
+way all the details of this fair landscape, we could see far eastward a
+strip of the Danube flashing in the sunbeams.
+
+We turned reluctantly from the grand panorama, but we began to feel the
+distressing effects of thirst. We had failed to procure any sheep's
+milk, but the postmaster declared that when we got back to our
+camping-place we should be able to find some fresh water. Arrived at
+this pleasant spot, we rested under the beech-trees, and sent off two of
+the Serbs to look for water. After waiting some time one of them brought
+us some, but it was from a stagnant pool, alive with animalculae, quite
+unfit to drink. I never remember suffering so much from thirst. The heat
+was excessive, but happily before reaching the Danube we found a
+delicious spring gushing out from the limestone rock. It was an
+indescribable refreshment for thirsty souls. We further regaled
+ourselves with a good meal at the village on the Hungarian side of the
+Danube, after crossing again in the "dug-out."
+
+The pope of the village entered into conversation with us, and finding I
+was a stranger he ordered a Wallack dance for our amusement. The
+costumes of the women were picturesque, but the dance itself was a slow
+affair, very unlike the lively _czardas_ of the Magyar peasant.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+     A hunting expedition proposed--Drive from Uibanya to
+     Orsova--Oriental aspect of the market-place--Cserna
+     Valley--Hercules-Bad, Mehadia--Post-office mistakes--Drive to
+     Karansebes--Rough customers _en route_--Lawlessness--Fair at
+     Karansebes--Podolian cattle--Ferocious dogs.
+
+
+During my stay at Uibanya the _Foerstmeister_ (head of the forest
+department) from Karansebes came over on business, and he told us there
+was to be a shooting expedition on the Alps in his district. He further
+invited us to take part in it, and I gladly accepted, as it fitted in
+very well indeed with my plans. Karansebes is directly on the route to
+Transylvania, whither I was bound. The district we were to shoot over is
+the rocky border-land between Hungary and Roumania. My friend
+F----agreed to accompany me, and on our way we proposed visiting the
+celebrated baths of Mehadia. Early one morning we started for Orsova, a
+drive of thirty miles, splendid scenery all the way. The latter part of
+our journey was by the side of the Danube, on the Szechenyi road again.
+
+We passed a number of hay-ricks in trees, which I have before described.
+Some of them were built up in the form of an inverted cone. The
+luxuriance of the foliage is very striking. Nothing can exceed the
+beauty of the wild vines so frequent on the banks of the Danube. They
+fall in graceful festoons from the trees; sometimes they reach across to
+the trees on the other side of the road, forming a complete arch of
+greenery. In the autumn the vine leaves turn to a glowing red, like the
+Virginian creeper, and then the effect of this mass of rich colouring is
+indeed glorious. Meanwhile gay butterflies of rare form fluttered about
+among the trailing vines, and bright green lizards darted in and out of
+the stone wall. Then an eagle or a vulture would swoop down from the
+heights, and settle himself on some pinnacle of rock, where he remained,
+motionless as a stuffed bird.
+
+When we reached Orsova we only stopped long enough to get some dinner
+and take the usual siesta. This place is on the frontier; three miles
+farther down you pass out of Hungary into Roumanian territory. Had we
+stayed any time we should certainly have gone to see Trajan's bridge,
+about eighteen miles hence. The so-called "Iron Gates" are just below
+Orsova. The designation is a misnomer, for the river ceases to be pent
+up between a defile, the hills recede from the shore, and the "Gates"
+are merely ledges of rock peculiarly difficult for navigation. Orsova is
+celebrated as the place where the regalia of Hungary were concealed by
+Kossuth and his friends from 1849 to 1853. The iron chest which held the
+palladium of the kingdom, the sacred crown of St Stephen, was buried in
+a waste spot, covered with willows, not far from the road. There is a
+somewhat Oriental look about Orsova. In the market-place there is a
+profusion of bright-coloured stuffs, prayer-carpets, and Turkish
+slippers. A narrow island of no great length, just below Orsova, is
+still held by the Turks. There is a small mosque with minarets visible
+amongst a group of the funeral cypress-tree, so characteristic of the
+presence of the Turk.
+
+Our road to Mehadia was away from the river, following instead the lead
+of a lateral valley. As we drove out of Orsova we passed a lot of
+Wallack huts forming a kind of suburb. These huts are built of wattles
+stuccoed with mud, always having on one side of the dwelling a space
+enclosed by stockades some ten feet high; this is a necessary protection
+for their animals against the depredations of wolves and bears, which
+abound here.
+
+Leaving this village we continued our way through the Cserna Valley,
+which has few signs of cultivation beyond the orchards and vineyards
+that climb up the hillsides of the narrow ravine. On our left we passed
+a ruined aqueduct of Turkish origin, eleven arches still remaining. As
+we proceeded, the valley narrowed considerably, and the scenery became
+more wild and striking. Here vegetation is in its richest profusion; the
+parasitical plants are surpassingly graceful, wreathing themselves over
+rocks and trees.
+
+Mehadia, or more strictly, Hercules-Bad, is the most fashionable bath in
+Hungary. The village of Mehedia must not be confounded with it, for it
+lies at a distance of six miles thence. The situation of Hercules-Bad is
+extremely romantic. Above the narrow rocky valley rise bare limestone
+peaks, girdled with rich forests of every variety of foliage. There are
+two kinds of springs, the sulphurous and the saline. The Hercules source
+bursts out from a cleft of the rock in such an immense volume that it is
+said to yield 5000 cubic feet in an hour. The water has to be cooled
+before it is used, the natural heat being as much as 131 deg. Fahrenheit.
+Its efficacy is said to be so great that the patient while in the bath
+"feels the evil being boiled out of him"! Some of the visitors had not
+yet had their turn of cooking, I suppose, or if they had been boiled,
+were rather underdone, for I met a good many gouty and rheumatic
+patients still in the hobbling condition.
+
+The country round Mehadia is so wild, both in regard to the scenery and
+to the native population, that the contrast of dropping suddenly into a
+fashionable watering-place is very curious. This bath is much frequented
+for pleasure and health by the luxury-loving Roumanians, who invariably
+display the latest extravagance of Parisian fashion. Men in
+patent-leather boots devoted to cards and billiards, while in the
+immediate neighbourhood of glorious scenery, with bear and chamois
+shooting to be had for the asking, seem to me "an unknown species," as
+Voltaire said of the English. From what I learned of the ways of the
+place it seems that the Magyar and Transylvanian visitors keep quite
+aloof from the Roumanian coterie; they have never anything pleasant to
+say of one another. At Boseg, a bath in the Eastern Carpathians which I
+visited later, the separation is so complete that the Roumanians go at
+one period of the season and the Hungarian visitors at another.
+
+It had always been my intention to stay a few days at the Hercules-Bad,
+and I had given the place as an address for English letters. Accordingly
+I presented myself at the _poste restante_. Seeing that I was a
+Britisher, the postmaster gave me all the letters he possessed with
+English postmarks. Many of them were of considerable antiquity. Out of
+the goodly pile I selected some half-dozen that bore my name; but I was
+greatly surprised to come across one that had made a very bad shot for
+its destination. It bore the simple name of some poor Jacktar, with the
+address "H.M.S. Hercules."
+
+The Romans had their _etablissement_ here. The present name comes from
+the "Thermae Herculis" of classic times. There are many interesting
+remains here--fragments of altars, sculptured capitals, and stones with
+inscriptions, all telling the same story--the story of Roman dominion
+and greatness.
+
+Just then we had no time for archaeology, for we wanted to push on to
+Karansebes, and we stayed only a day and a half at Mehadia. As it was
+more than we could comfortably manage to do the whole distance in a day,
+we arranged to drive as far as Terregova and sleep there. We left
+Mehadia early in the afternoon, F----'s groom riding my horse. The road
+was excellent--all the roads are in the districts of the Military
+Frontier. As an example of the quick temper of the Wallacks, I will
+mention a little incident which happened on the road. We met some of
+these people, and one of them, who was looking another way, stumbled
+most awkwardly against the groom's horse, and very nearly met with an
+accident. Though it was so clearly his own fault, he had hardly
+recovered himself when, raising his axe, he was about to strike our
+servant on the head. Meanwhile another fellow seized a big stone, which
+I believe was going to make a target of the same head. Luckily I turned,
+and seeing the scuffle, I was out with my revolver in a moment, pointing
+it at the man with the axe. He understood my language, and made a hasty
+retreat. F---- said he had no doubt it would have gone badly with the
+groom if the distance between us had been greater.
+
+We were in for adventures in a small way that evening. Just after
+sunset, when it was already rather dark in the valley, we found
+ourselves suddenly stopped by a man, who leaped out from behind a rock,
+seized the horses, and with a powerful grasp brought them down on their
+haunches. F---- had the reins, so I jumped down and made straight at the
+fellow, revolver in hand. I imagine he did not expect to find us armed,
+or he found us literally too many for him, but diving into the bushes,
+he was gone even quicker than he came.
+
+We had hardly got the horses into full trot again, when we noticed two
+cartloads of Wallacks driving side by side on in front of us. When we
+came up they would not let us pass, and continued this little game for
+more than ten minutes, notwithstanding all our expostulations. They were
+driving much slower than ourselves, and F---- began to lose patience; so
+holding the horses well in hand, he told me to fire off my revolver in
+the air. After this they thought proper to draw aside, but even then
+leaving us so little room that we risked our necks in passing them in a
+very awkward corner. I was told afterwards by the postmaster of
+Karansebes that a diligence had fallen over the precipice at this very
+place, only a very short time before, owing to the Wallack drivers
+purposely obstructing the road. Such are the Wallacks--I beg their
+pardon, Roumanians!
+
+When we got to Terregova, we were glad to find quite a decent inn, the
+Wilder Mann, kept by civil people. After supper we had a chat with our
+hostess, who being a regular gossip, was very pleased to tell us a lot
+of stories about the wild character of the country-people. She was very
+sorry that the frontier was no longer under the Austrian military rule,
+for, she said, having been accustomed to the strict military system so
+long, the Wallacks, now they have more liberty, have become utterly
+lawless, and exceedingly troublesome to their German neighbours. She
+added that the _gendarmes_, who were supposed to keep order in the
+district, were far too few to be of any real use. She complained
+bitterly against the Wallacks for firing the forests, and they had
+become much worse since '48. "In fact the time will come," she said,
+"when wood will be scarce, and then everybody will suffer; but they
+don't think, and they don't care, and just lay their hands on anything."
+
+The Government certainly ought to look to the preservation of the
+forests, and above all they ought to make the law respected amongst a
+population which is so little advanced in civilisation as to be
+indifferent to the first principles of order. The Wallacks want
+education, and above all they want a decent priesthood, before they can
+make any sound progress. With all their ignorance and lawlessness, it is
+curious that they pride themselves on being descendants of the ancient
+Romans, ignoring their "Dacian sires."
+
+The next day we went on to Karansebes--a good road and charming scenery.
+This is the highroad into Transylvania, called the Eisenthor Pass; but
+it hardly merits the name of pass, inasmuch as it only crosses the spur
+of the hills. The distance from Orsova on the Danube to Hatszeg in
+Transylvania is 110 miles: the district is known as the "Romanen
+Banat," and, as the name imports, is principally inhabited by Wallacks,
+otherwise Roumanians.
+
+We arrived at Karansebes in the afternoon, and by good-luck it chanced
+to be fair-day. This is a central market for a considerable extent of
+country, so that there is always a great gathering of people. In driving
+into the town we passed a long bridge which crosses a low-lying meadow,
+the central arch being sufficient to span the stream, at least in
+summer. From this elevation we had a capital view of the fair, which was
+being held in these meadows, and could look down leisurely on the whole
+scene; and a very novel and amusing sight it was.
+
+There were hundreds of people; and what a variety of races and diversity
+of costumes! The Wallack women, in their holiday suits, were the most
+picturesque. Many of them were handsome, and they have generally a very
+superior air to the men; they are better dressed and more civilised
+looking. There were a sprinkling of Magyars in braided coats, or with
+white felt cloaks richly embroidered in divers colours. But the
+blue-eyed, fair-complexioned German was far more numerous. The Magyar
+element is very much in the minority in this particular part of Hungary.
+The Jews and the gipsies were there in great numbers--they always are
+at fairs--in the quality of horse-dealers and vendors of wooden articles
+for the kitchen. The Jew is easily distinguished by his black corkscrew
+ringlets, and his brown dressing-gown coat reaching to his heels. This
+ancient garment suits him "down to the ground;" in fact his yellow
+visage and greasy hat would not easily match with anything more cleanly.
+These Jewish frequenters of fairs are, as a rule, of the lowest class,
+hailing either from the Marmaros Mountains in North-Eastern Hungary, or
+from Galicia.
+
+The fair is really a very important exhibition of the products and
+manufactures of the country, and it is well worth the attention of the
+stranger, who may pass on with the motley crowd through streets of
+stalls and booths. One _annexe_ is devoted to furniture, from a winged
+wardrobe down to a wooden spoon. In another part you see piles of
+Servian rugs, coarse carpets, sheepskin _bundas_, hairy caps of a
+strange peaked form, broad hats made of reed or rush, and the delightful
+white felt garments before mentioned, which are always embroidered with
+great taste and skill. Horses, cows, and pigs are also brought here in
+great numbers to exchange owners. The long-horned cattle are perhaps the
+most striking feature in the whole fair. They are white, with a little
+grey on the necks, flanks, and buttocks. Oxen are much used for hauling
+purposes as well as for the plough. A pair of oxen, it is considered,
+will do the work of four horses.
+
+Professor Wrightson says: "The Podolian is an aboriginal race, descended
+from the wild urox (_Bos primigenius_). The race is remarkable for its
+capability of resisting influences of climate, and its contentedness
+with poor diet.... The Hungarian oxen are considered by naturalists as
+the best living representative of the original progenitors of our
+domestic cattle." Of the buffalo the same writer says: "It was
+introduced into Hungary by Attila; it is found in the lowlands, on both
+sides of the Danube and the Theiss, Lower Hungary, and Transylvania. In
+1870 there were upwards of 58,000 in Transylvania, and more than 14,000
+in Hungary."[10]
+
+Later in my tour, when at Klausenburg, I had an opportunity of seeing an
+extensive dairy where upwards of a hundred buffalo cows were kept. The
+farm alluded to is admirably managed, and, I am told, yields very
+profitable returns.
+
+It is the opinion of Professor Wrightson that cattle are diminishing in
+Hungary owing to the breaking up of pastures and the recurrence of
+rinderpest. He says he does not think that the English market can look
+to Hungary for a supply of cattle at present. This gentleman did not, I
+believe, visit Transylvania, and I am inclined to think the supply from
+_that_ part of the kingdom is greatly on the increase; there the
+pastures are _not_ in process of being turned into arable land, and the
+rise in prices has given an impetus to the profitable employment of
+capital in raising stock.
+
+In walking round the fair, we took notice of the horses. I could have
+made a better bargain than I did in Servia. A useful cart-horse could be
+bought, I found, for about six or seven pounds. I daresay I could have
+picked out a few from the lot fit for riding, but of course they were
+rough animals, mere peasant horses. Some of the colts, brought in a
+string fresh from the mountains, were wild, untamed-looking creatures;
+but hardly as wild as the Wallacks who led them, dressed in sheepskin,
+and followed each by his savage wolf-like dog. The dogs are very
+formidable in Hungary. It is never safe to take a walk, even in the
+environs of a town, without a revolver, on account of these savage
+brutes, who, faithful to their masters, are liable to make the most
+ferocious attacks on strangers. This special kind of dog is in fact most
+useful--to the shepherd on the lonely _puszta_, to the keeper of the
+vineyard through the night-watches, when the wild boar threatens his
+ravages--and in short he acts the part of rural police generally.
+
+In Hungary, as elsewhere, there are dogs of kindly nature and gentle
+culture. I can record a curious instance of reasoning power in a dog
+named "Jockey," who is well known at Buda Pest. He has the habit of
+crossing over from Pest to Buda every morning of his life in one or
+another of the little steamboats that ply backwards and forwards. He
+regularly takes his walk over there, and then returns as before by
+steamer. This is his practice in summer; but when winter arrives, and
+the ice on the Danube stops the traffic of the steamboats, then Jockey
+has recourse to the bridge. I believe there is no doubt of this
+anecdote. Another instance of sagacity is attributed to him. His master
+lost a lawsuit through the rascality of his attorney; Jockey feels so
+strongly on the subject that he snarls and growls whenever a lawyer
+enters his master's house. Here, of course, the instinct is stronger
+than the powers of discrimination.
+
+[Footnote 10: 'Report on the Agriculture of the Austro-Hungarian
+Empire,' Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, vol. x. Part xi. No.
+xx.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+     Post-office at Karansebes--Good headquarters for a
+     sportsman--Preparations for a week in the mountain--The party
+     starting for the hunt--Adventures by the way--Fine trees--Game--Hut
+     in the forest--Beauty of the scenery in the Southern Carpathians.
+
+
+We put up at the Gruenen Baum, the principal inn at Karansebes. My first
+business was to worry everybody about my guns, which I had telegraphed
+should be sent from Buda Pest to this place. I am afraid the postmaster
+will never hear the name of an Englishman without associating the idea
+of a fussy, irritable, impatient being, such as I was, about my guns. Of
+course it was very provoking that they had not arrived. This postmaster
+was a pattern official, an honour to his calling; he not only bore with
+me, but he offered to lend me a gun if mine did not come. In Germany
+there is a saying, "_So grob wie ein postbeamter_." The postmaster of
+Karansebes was a glorious exception to the rule.
+
+On one occasion, while I was waiting in the office for an answer to one
+of the many telegrams that I had despatched, a peasant woman came in
+with a letter without an address. The postmaster seeing this, and
+thinking she could not write, asked her to whom he should address the
+letter. She was dreadfully indignant with him for his well-meant offer,
+and said, "My son knows all about it--it is no business of yours."
+
+"But I can't forward it without an address," objected the postmaster.
+
+"Yes, you must," she rejoined, getting more and more angry--"you must;
+that's what you are paid for doing."
+
+Here some other people came to the rescue, and by dint of all talking at
+once for full twenty minutes, they induced her to give her son's
+address; but it was a clear case of "convinced against her will," for as
+she quitted the office she turned round and said, with a shake of the
+head, "It's all very well to put that; but my son will know who it is
+from."
+
+Karansebes is not at all a bad place as headquarters for the sportsman.
+In the neighbourhood there is very good snipe-shooting in spring and
+autumn. The fishing too is excellent for trout and grayling. The bear,
+the wolf, and the chamois are to be met with on the heights, which form
+this portion of the great horseshoe of the Carpathians.
+
+The day before our expedition we were occupied with a few necessary
+preparations. When these matters were settled to our satisfaction, we
+went off in good time to secure a few hours' sleep, as we were to start
+at four A.M.
+
+F---- and I were up in capital time, eager for the day's work, and
+anxious, moreover, not to keep the rest of the party waiting. There was
+an Austrian general, however, amongst the number, and therefore we might
+safely have slept another hour. The morning was very unpromising, the
+rain descended in a dull persistent downpour. We tried to hope it was
+the pride of the morning. The prospect was dreary enough to damp the
+spirits of some of our party. One man found that urgent private affairs
+called him hence; another averred he had an inflammatory sore throat. I
+expected a third would say he had married a wife and could not come.
+Happily, however, the weather cleared a little as the morning advanced,
+and further desertions were arrested.
+
+At length the whole party got off in sundry _leiterwagen_, a vehicle
+which has no counterpart in England, and the literal rendering of a
+ladder-waggon hardly conveys the proper notion of the thing itself. This
+long cart, it is needless to say, is without springs; but it has the
+faculty of accommodating itself to the inequalities of the road in a
+marvellous manner. It has, moreover, a snake-like vertebrae, and even
+twists itself when necessary.
+
+My guns never came after all, and I was obliged to borrow. The one lent
+me had one barrel smooth-bore, the other rifled.
+
+We drove for some distance along the Hatszeg highroad, then turned off
+to the right. Continuing our course for some time, we came to the pretty
+little village of Moeruel, where we breakfasted. It was quite the cleanest
+and neatest Wallack settlement that I had seen at all. It is celebrated
+for the beauty of its women. Several very pretty girls in their
+picturesque costume were gathered round the village well, engaged in
+filling their classical-shaped pitchers. Every movement of their arms
+was grace itself. The action was not from the elbow, but from the
+shoulder, whereby one sees the arm extended in the curved line of
+beauty, instead of sticking out at a sharp angle, as with us Western
+races.
+
+The weather had improved considerably. Our breakfast, for which we
+halted on the further outskirts of the village, was very agreeably
+discussed amidst much general good-humour. The peasants regarded us with
+frank undisguised curiosity, coming round to watch our proceedings.
+
+After leaving Moeruel we got really into the wilds. A very bad road led
+up through a magnificent valley, the scenery most romantic; indeed every
+turn brought to view some new aspect, calling forth admiration. On our
+right was a fine trout-stream of that delicious brown tint welcome to
+the eye of the fisherman. At times the water was seen breaking over a
+rocky bed with much foam and fret, and then would find for itself a
+tranquil pool beneath the shadow of some mighty beech-tree.
+
+The foliage of the forest, which closed down upon the valley, was simply
+magnificent. The trees in the Southern Carpathians are far finer than
+those of the Austrian Alps; they attain a greater average height. The
+variety, too, was very striking in many places. The strip of green
+pasturage that bordered our road was fringed with weeping birch-trees,
+which gave a singular charm to the woodland scene.
+
+A turn in the direction of the valley brought us within sight of the
+high range of mountains forming the frontier between Hungary and
+Roumania. Some of the higher summits were ominously covered with dirty
+clouds. It was observed that they were lifting, at least some of the
+most sanguine thought so. However, judging from my former experiences in
+Upper Austria and Styria, I could not say that I thought it was a good
+sign, supposing even they were lifting. I think myself there is better
+chance of fine weather in high regions when the clouds descend and
+disappear in the valleys.
+
+Coming shortly to the foot of the mountain, the Sarka, which is upwards
+of 6000 feet in height, we made a temporary halt. We had now to change
+our _leiterwagen_ for horses. All signs of a road had long ceased. On
+the green knoll in front were a herd of shaggy mountain horses with
+their Wallack drivers--as wild a scene as could well be imagined. Here
+we unpacked our various stores of provisions, fortified ourselves with a
+good dinner, and made necessary arrangements for the change of
+locomotion. There was some trouble in properly distributing the things
+for the pack-horses. Care had to be taken to give each horse his proper
+weight and no more. It was also very important to see that the packages
+were rightly balanced to avoid shifting.
+
+I had left my own horse at Karansebes, because he was in need of rest;
+so F---- and I had to select horses from amongst the promiscuous lot
+brought up by the "hunt." We chose out a couple of decent-looking
+animals--indeed I rather prided myself on my selection, drew attention
+to his good points, and rallied F---- on his less successful choice.
+
+At length everything was ready. Judging from the amount of baggage, the
+commissariat department was all right. The order of march was this: ten
+gentlemen, like so many knights on horseback with lances in rest, rode
+on in front, in Indian file: our long alpen-stocks really somewhat
+resembled lances. Each man had his gun slung behind. In the rear of
+these gallant knights came a dozen pack-horses heavily laden, each with
+his burden well covered up with sheepskins; behind again followed a lot
+of Wallacks--these irregulars were to act as beaters.
+
+On we went in this order for seven hours. The pace was so slow that I
+confess it made me impatient, but our path through the forest was too
+narrow and too steep to do more than walk our horses in single file. The
+character of the vegetation visibly changed as we ascended. We left the
+oak and beech, and came upon a forest of pine-trees, and I thought of
+the lines--
+
+    "This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks,
+    Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight."
+
+The grey moss which hangs in such abundant festoons from the fir-trees
+has a most singular effect, almost weird at times. These ancients of the
+forest, with their long grey beards and hoary tresses, look very solemn
+indeed in the gloaming.
+
+What unheeded wealth in these majestic trees, which grow but to decay!
+Enormous trunks lay on every side: some had passed into the rottenness
+which gives new life; and here fungi of bright and varied hues, grey
+lichen, and green moss preserved together the contour of the gigantic
+stem, which, prostrate and decayed now, had once held its head high
+amongst the lordlings of the forest.
+
+In the last century these woods were tenanted by wild aurochs and the
+ibex, but both are extinct now in Hungary. Red-deer and the roe are
+still common enough. "The wild-cat, fox, badger, otter, marten, and
+other smaller carnivora are pretty numerous." Mr Danford[11] goes on to
+say that "feathered game is certainly not abundant. There are a good
+many capercailzie in the quiet pine-woods, pretty high up, but they are
+only to be got at during the pairing season. Hazel-grouse too are common
+in the lower woods, but are not easily found unless the call-system be
+adopted. Black game are scarcely worth mentioning as far as sport is
+concerned. Partridges scarce, not preserved, and the hooded crows and
+birds of prey making life rather hard for them." Mr Danford further
+speaks of the chamois-eagle as "not rare in the higher mountains." The
+fisher-eagle "generally distributed." The king-eagle also "not rare."
+The carrion-vulture "common throughout the country," also the red-footed
+falcon. At one time and another I have myself seen most of these birds
+in the Carpathians, which form the frontier between Transylvania and
+Roumania.
+
+Meanwhile I must resume the description of our march, which was a very
+slow affair. As we ascended, the trees decreased in size. We had long
+ago left the deciduous foliage behind us; but the pines themselves were
+smaller, interspersed with what is called "crooked timber," which grows
+in grotesque dwarf-like forms. The forest at last diminished into mere
+sparse shrubs, and finally we reached the treeless region, called in
+German the _Alpen_, where there is rich pasturage for cattle and sheep
+during the summer. We were now on tolerably level ground, and I thought
+we should get a trot out of our wretched horses, but no, not a step
+faster would they go. I believe we went at the rate of about two miles
+and a half an hour. We tried everything--I mean F----and I--to get the
+animals to stretch out over the turf; but they set to kicking
+vigorously, backing and rearing, so that to avoid giving annoyance to
+our companions, we were obliged to give in, and let the brutes go their
+own pace.
+
+We had gone but a very little way on the Alpen before we found ourselves
+enveloped in a thick mist, added to which the track itself became
+uncertain. We went on: if the saying "slow but sure" has any truth in
+it, we ought to have been sure enough. My horse reminded me of the reply
+of the Somersetshire farmer, who, when he was asked if his horse was
+steady, answered, "He be so steady that if he were a bit steadier he
+would not go at all." Notwithstanding that we moved like hay-stacks, and
+the cavalcade seemed to be treading on one another's heels, yet,
+ridiculous to say, we got separated from our baggage. Darkness set in,
+and with it a cold drizzling rain--not an animated storm that braces
+your nerves, but a quiet soaking rain, the sort of thing that takes the
+starch out of one's moral nature.
+
+All at once I was aroused from my apathy by a shout from the front
+calling out to the cavalcade to halt. I must observe a fellow on foot
+was leading the way in quality of guide. A pretty sort of a guide he
+turned out to be. He had led us quite wrong, and in fact found all of a
+sudden that he was on the verge of a precipice!
+
+There was a good deal of unparliamentary language, expressed in tones
+both loud and deep. It was an act of unwisdom, however, to stop there in
+a heap on the grassy slope of a precipice, swearing in chorus at the
+poor devil of a Wallack. I turned my horse up the incline, resolved to
+try back, hoping to regain the lost track. It was next to impossible to
+halt, for we had not even got our plaids with us--everything was with
+the baggage-horses. Of course "some one had blundered." We all knew
+that! The guide stuck to it to the last that "he had not exactly lost
+his way." The fellow was incapable of a suggestion, and would have stood
+there arguing till doomsday if we had not sent him off with a sharp
+injunction to find some shepherds, and that quickly, who could take us
+to the rendezvous. Being summer time, there would be many shepherds
+about in different places on the Alpen, and the Wallack could hardly
+fail to encounter some herdkeeper before long.
+
+We waited, as agreed, on the same spot nearly an hour, and then we heard
+a great shouting to the right of us. This was the guide, who I believe
+must have been born utterly without the organ of locality. He had found
+some shepherds, he told us subsequently, not long after he had left us,
+but then the fool of a fellow could not find his way back to us, to the
+spot where we agreed to wait for him. There was a great deal of shouting
+before we could bring him to our bearings: the fog muffled the sound,
+adding to the perplexity.
+
+The shepherds now took us in tow. We had to go back some distance, and
+then make a sharp descent to the right, which brought us to the
+rendezvous, and we effected at last a junction with our lost luggage.
+Arriving at the hut, which had been previously built for us, we were
+delighted to find a meal already prepared; it was in fact a very
+elaborate supper, but I think we were all too exhausted to appreciate
+the details. I know I was very glad to wrap my plaid round me and
+stretch myself on the floor.
+
+The next morning we were up with the first streak of dawn. It was with
+some curiosity that I looked round at our impromptu dwelling and its
+surroundings, upon which we had descended in total obscurity the night
+before. The position of our camping-place was not badly chosen; we were
+just within the girdle of forest above which rises the grassy Alpen.
+About forty yards to the left or north-east of us was a small stream,
+the boundary, it seems, between the Banat and Transylvania. We were
+provided with two necessaries of life, wood and water, close at hand.
+
+The hut, however, was more picturesque than practical, as subsequent
+events proved. The Wallacks had constructed it by driving two strong
+posts into the ground about ten yards apart. A tree was placed across,
+with a couple of smaller supports, and on this was made on a rough
+framework a sloping roof to the windward side. The roofing consisted
+entirely of leaves: it is called in German _laubhuette_, but is in fact
+more of a parasol than an umbrella. I should have preferred a hut made
+of bark, such as I have seen used by shepherds and sportsmen in Styria.
+
+The interior of the hut had a droll appearance. Bacon, sausages,
+meal-bags, and various other things were hanging from pegs fastened into
+the supports of the roof; and the gear belonging to ten sportsmen were
+stowed away somehow. The place might have passed for the head-centre of
+a band of brigands.
+
+The mountain on which we were encamped forms part of the western side of
+a long valley, at the bottom of which, quite 2000 feet below us, is a
+magnificent trout-stream. The sides of this valley are clothed with
+dense forests, with broken cliffs obtruding in places. The height of the
+Carpathians in this part of the range must not be taken as a gauge of
+the scenery, which quite equals in grandeur the higher Alps in many
+parts of Switzerland and the Tyrol. Comparisons are dangerous, for the
+lovers of Switzerland will silence me with glaciers and eternal snow;
+these advantages I must concede, still contending, however, for the
+extreme beauty and wildness of the Southern Carpathians. The
+characteristics of the scenery are due to the broken forms of the
+crystalline rocks, the singular occurrence of sharp limestone ridges,
+and the deep forest-clad valleys, traversed by mountain torrents, which
+everywhere diversify the scene.
+
+[Footnote 11: The Ibis, vol. v., 1875. The Birds of Transylvania. By
+Messrs. Danford and Brown.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+     Chamois and bear hunting--First battue--Luxurious dinner 5000 feet
+     above the sea-level--Storm in the night--Discomforts--The bear's
+     supper--The eagle's breakfast--Second and third day's
+     shooting--Baking a friend as a cure for fever--Striking camp--View
+     into Roumania.
+
+
+We started for our first battue in capital time, taking with us a crowd
+of Wallack beaters. Our places were appointed to us by the director of
+the hunt, and some of us had a stiffish climb before reaching the spot
+indicated. At a right angle to this valley there protrudes one of those
+characteristic limestone ridges; it terminates in an abrupt precipice or
+declivity above the stream. My place was some half-way up, a good
+position; for while I could see the course of the stream, I could
+command a fair range of ground above me.
+
+It was impossible not to take note of the exquisite beauty of the whole
+scene, particularly as it then appeared. The sun breaking through the
+clouds, threw his sharply-defined rays of light into the depths of the
+misty defile, playing upon the foam of the water, and giving life and
+colour to the hanging woods. I hardly took it in at the time, but rather
+remembered the details afterwards; for my thoughts were occupied in
+trying to judge the distance up to which I might fire with any chance of
+success--distances are always very deceptive on the mountains.
+
+I must observe that we hoped to get a shot at some bears, but the
+chamois were the legitimate object of the hunt. The late autumn or early
+winter is the best time for bear-hunting.
+
+I had not been long at my post when I heard two shots in quick
+succession fired below me. I found a chamois had been shot.
+
+For our next battue we turned right-about face, the beaters coming from
+the other side; but we had bad luck. One of our party saw a bear at some
+distance, fired, and--missed it. The fact of a bear having been sighted
+encouraged us in keeping up our battues pretty late, but nothing more
+was shot that day. It was very disappointing, because if the bear was
+thereabouts our numerous staff of beaters ought to have turned him up
+again. Some of the party were altogether sceptical about a bear having
+been seen at all. Of course the man who had fired held to the bear as if
+it was the first article in his creed. The dissentients remarked that
+"believing is seeing," as some one cleverly said of spiritualism. I
+don't know whether it was better to think you had missed your bear or
+had no bear to miss.
+
+When we returned to the hut in the evening we found that a couple of men
+left in charge had made some great improvements. The Wallacks, who are
+sharp ready-handed fellows, to do them justice, had in our absence cut
+down some trees, split them with wooden pegs, and constructed out of the
+rough timber a long table and a couple of benches. These were placed in
+front of our hut; the supper was spread, the table being lighted with
+some four lanterns, supplemented by torches of resinous pine-wood.
+
+The weather had been fair, though sport had been bad, so with a feeling
+not "altogether sorrow-like" we sat down to a hearty good meal. One of
+the dishes was chamois-liver, which is considered a great delicacy. We
+had, indeed, several capital dishes, well dressed and served hot--a most
+successful feast at 5000 feet above the sea-level. A vote of thanks was
+proposed for the cook, and carried unanimously. The wines were
+excellent. We had golden Mediasch, one of the best wines grown in
+Transylvania, Roszamaber from Karlsburg and Bakatar. The peculiarity
+about the first-named wine is that it produces an agreeable pricking on
+the tongue, called in German _tschirpsen_.
+
+Before turning in we had a smoke, accompanied by tea with rum, the
+invariable substitute for milk in Hungary.
+
+As there were four big fires burning in the clearing outside the hut,
+the whole scene was very bright and cheerful. The wood crackled briskly,
+the flames lit up the green foliage, and the moving figures of our
+attendants gave animation to the picture. Amongst ourselves there were a
+few snatches of song, and from up the hill where the Wallacks were
+camped came a chorus of not unmusical voices. One after another of our
+party dropped off, betaking himself to his natural rest. I was not the
+last, and must have slept as soon as I pulled the plaid over my ears,
+for I remembered nothing more.
+
+I daresay I slept two or three hours; it may have been more or less, I
+don't know, but the next moment of consciousness, or semi-consciousness,
+was an uneasy feeling that a thief was trying to carry off a large tin
+bath that belonged to me, in my dream. As he dragged it away it seemed
+to me that he bumped it with all his might, making a horrible row.
+Meanwhile, oppressed by nightmare, I could not budge an inch nor utter a
+cry, though I would have given the world to stop the thief. I daresay
+this nonsense of my dream occupied but an instant of time. I woke to the
+consciousness of a loud peal of thunder. "We are in for a storm,"
+thought I, turning drowsily on my other side, not yet much awake to the
+probable consequences.
+
+There was no sleep for me, however. The rest of the party were, one and
+all, up and moving about; and the noise of the storm also increased--the
+flashes of lightning were blinding, and the crash of the thunder was
+almost simultaneous. Through the open side of our hut I could see and
+hear the rain descending in torrents; fortunately it did not beat in,
+but it was not long before the wet penetrated the roof--that roof of
+leaves that I had mentally condemned the day before. After the rain once
+came through, the ground was soon soaking.
+
+It was a dismal scene. I sat up with the others, "the lanterns dimly
+burning," and occupied myself for some time contriving gurgoyles at
+different angles of my body, but the wet would trickle down my neck.
+
+We made a small fire inside the hut, essaying thereby to dry some of our
+things. My socks were soaking; my boots, I found, had a considerable
+storage of water; the only dry thing was my throat, made dry by
+swallowing the wood-smoke. A more complete transformation scene could
+hardly be imagined than our present woeful guise compared with the
+merriment of the supper-table, where all was song and jollity.
+
+A German, who was sitting on the same log with myself, looking the
+picture of misery, had been one of the most jovial songsters of the
+evening.
+
+"Thousand devils!" said he, "you could wring me like a rag. This
+abominable hut is a sponge--a mere reservoir of water."
+
+"Oh, well, it is all part of the fun," said I, turning the water out of
+my boots, and proceeding to toast my socks by the fire on the thorns of
+a twig. "Suppose we sing a song. What shall it be?--'The meeting of the
+waters'?"
+
+I had intended a mild joke, but the Teuton relapsed into grim silence.
+
+The storm after a while appeared to be rolling off. The thunder-claps
+were not so immediately over our heads, and the flashes of lightning
+were less frequent; in fact a perfect lull existed for a short space of
+time, marking the passage probably to an oppositely electrified zone of
+the thunder-cloud. During this brief lull we were startled by hearing
+all at once a frightful yelling from the quarter where the Wallacks were
+camping, a little higher up than our hut.
+
+Amidst the general hullabaloo of dogs barking and men shouting we at
+last distinguished the cry of "Ursa, ursa!" which is Wallachian for
+bear. Our camp became the scene of the most tremendous excitement;
+everybody rushed out, but in the thick darkness it was impossible to
+pursue the bear. The more experienced sportsmen were not so eager to
+sally out after the bear, as they were anxious to prevent a stampede of
+the horses. When the latter were secured as well as circumstances would
+permit, a few guns were fired off to warn the bear, and then there was
+nothing for it but to watch and wait. The dogs went on barking for more
+than an hour, but otherwise the camp relapsed into stillness. I spent
+the remainder of the night sitting on a log before the fire, smoking my
+pipe with the bowl downwards, for the rain had never ceased, and clouds
+of steam rose from our camp-fires. The fear was that the powder would
+get wet. I must have dropped off my perch asleep, for I picked myself up
+the next morning out of a pool of water. It was already dawn, and
+looking eastward I saw a streak of light beneath a dark curtain of
+cloud, like the gleam on the edge of a sword, so sharp and defined was
+it. This was hopeful; it had ceased raining too, and a brisk wind came
+up the valley.
+
+There was plenty to be done, in drying our clothes and preparing
+breakfast under difficulties. In the midst of this bustle a Wallack came
+in to tell us that the bear had really got into the camp in the night,
+and that he had killed and partly eaten one of the horses. This
+confirmed the fact that the bear had been sighted by one of our party
+the day before; though we missed him, he had had his supper, and we were
+minus a horse.
+
+I followed the Wallack a few steps up the hill, and there, not far off,
+on a knoll to the left, lay the carcass of the horse. It was a strange
+sight! Crowds of eagles, vultures, and carrion-crows were already
+feasting on the remains. Every moment almost, fresh birds came swooping
+down to their savage breakfast. Bears do not always eat flesh; but it
+seems when once tasted, they have a liking for it, and cease to be
+vegetarians. A simple-minded bear delights in maize, honey, wild apples
+and raspberries.
+
+Our guns required a good deal of cleaning before we were ready to start
+for the second day's sport.
+
+The result of the battues were not satisfactory. A fine buck was shot,
+and two or three chamois were bagged. We sighted no less than three
+bears, but they all broke through the line, and got off into the lower
+valleys. The provoking thing was that the bear or bears came again to
+our camp the second night; but they were able to do no mischief this
+time. The horses were kept better together, and the dogs scared the
+intruders from close quarters I imagine. Fires certainly do not frighten
+the bear in districts where they get accustomed to the shepherds'
+fires.
+
+The third day of our shooting the weather was good, but we had no sport
+at all. I believe we should have done better with a different set of
+beaters, and this opinion was shared by several of our party. The
+_Foerstmeister_ had made a mistake in choosing men from the villages in
+the plain, instead of getting some of the hill shepherds, who know the
+mountains thoroughly well, and are not afraid of a bear when they see
+one. Some of our beaters were funky, I believe, and gave the bear a wide
+berth I feel sure, otherwise we must have had better sport.
+
+During the evening of the third day F---- got a bad attack of fever, the
+intermittent fever common in all the Danubian Provinces. After supper
+the rain came on again, not violently, but enough to make everything
+very damp. I felt that under the circumstances the hut was a very bad
+place for him, so I cast about to see what I could do. As good-luck
+would have it, not very far off I discovered a horizontal fissure in the
+cliff, a sort of wide slit caused by one rock overhanging another ledge.
+It was fortunately sheltered from the wind, and promised to suit my
+purpose very well.
+
+I collected a pile of sticks and firewood, thrust them blazing into the
+cavity, and fed the fire till the rocks were fit to crack with the heat.
+I remembered having seen cottagers heat their ovens in this way in
+Somersetshire. I now raked out the fire and all the mortuary remains of
+insects, and then laid down a plaid thrice doubled for softness. Having
+done this, I seized upon my friend, weak and prostrate as he was, and
+shoved him into his oven like a batch of bread. I had previously given
+him a big dose of quinine (without which medicine I never travel in
+these parts), and now I set to work rubbing him, for he was really very
+bad indeed. In ten minutes or so F----became warm as a toast. The
+terrible shivering was stopped, so my plan of baking was succeeding
+capitally. It is true he complained a little of one shoulder being
+rather overdone, but that was nothing. The vigorous rubbing was of great
+service also. I remembered the saying, "Whatever is worth doing at all
+is worth doing well," so I rubbed my patient with a will. He objected
+rather, but he was too weak to make any resistance, so I rubbed on. I
+knew it would do him good in the end; so it did--I cured him. I think,
+however, the cure was mainly due to the baking!
+
+After I had satisfied myself that my friend was going on well, I
+arranged our waterproofs in front of the opening like curtains; and then
+I turned in myself, for there was room for me too in the oven. The rain
+descended pretty heavily in the night, but we slept well; and my patient
+presented a most creditable appearance in the morning.
+
+On the fourth day some of our party bagged a few chamois, but the
+incidents of the day were in no way remarkable. At night F---- and I
+returned to our cave. The others had dubbed it the "Hotel d'Angleterre."
+Considering the capability we had of warming-up, our quarters were not
+half bad.
+
+The succeeding morning it was settled that we should strike our camp and
+move on to a fresh place. The beaters were sent back, for they were not
+a bit of good. Some of the party also left, amongst them my German
+friend. I do not think he will ever join a bear-hunt again, and his
+departure did not surprise us. After leaving our late quarters we rode
+for some hours along a singular ridge, so narrow at places as to leave
+little more than the width of the sheep-track on the actual summit. This
+ridge, more or less precipitous, rises above the zone of forest, and is
+covered with short thick grass. We passed, I should think, thirty flocks
+of sheep at different times, attended by the wild-looking Wallacks and
+their fierce dogs.
+
+We made a halt in the middle of the day, but the rain was coming down,
+and we were glad to be soon off again.
+
+In the afternoon we got over into the Roumanian side of the frontier.
+The lofty limestone ridge of which I have spoken is in fact the
+boundary-line at this part. We were at an elevation of about 6000 feet,
+judging from the heights above us, when suddenly, or almost suddenly,
+the clouds were lifted which hitherto had enveloped us. It was like
+drawing up the curtain of a theatre. I never remember to have seen
+anything so striking as this sudden revealing of the fair world at our
+feet, bathed in glowing sunlight. We beheld the plains of Roumania far
+away stretched as a map beneath us; there, though one cannot discern it,
+the swift Aluta joins the Danube opposite Nicopolis; and there, within
+range of the glass, are the white mosques of Widdin in Bulgaria. We
+looked right down into Little Wallachia, where woods, rocks, and streams
+are tumbled about pellmell in a picturesque but unsettled sort of way.
+The very locality we were traversing is the part where the
+salt-smugglers used to carry on their trade, and many a sharp encounter
+has been fought here between them and the soldiers. This is now a thing
+of the past, since Roumania has also introduced a salt monopoly.
+
+We were treated to this glorious view for little more than half an hour;
+the clouds then enveloped us again, and blotted out that fair world,
+with all its brightness, as if it were not. A strong wind blew up from
+the north, bringing with it a storm of rain and sleet which chilled us
+to the bones. The horses went slower and slower. Including the noonday
+halt, we had been ten hours in the saddle, and men and horses had had
+pretty well enough. I never recollect a colder ride.
+
+We encamped that night in the forest. I looked out for another rock
+oven, and found one not otherwise unsuitable for shelter; but
+unfortunately this time the opening was to the windward side, so it was
+useless for our purpose. It was a good thing F---- did not have a return
+of his fever here, for we had to pass the night very indifferently.
+
+The next morning the weather continued so persistently bad in the
+mountains that we voted the "hunt" at an end, and made the best of our
+way towards Mehadia, from which place we were in fact not so very
+distant. The descent was very rapid; at first through a thick forest,
+then into the open valley, where the heat became intense. The change of
+temperature was very striking.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+     Back at Mehadia--Troubles about a carriage--An unexpected night on
+     the road--Return to Karansebes--On horseback through the Iron Gate
+     Pass--Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia--Roman remains--Beauty
+     of the Hatszeg Valley.
+
+
+After a week of such weather as we had had in the mountains, a
+water-tight roof over one's head was in itself a luxury; so we were not
+inclined to quarrel with our quarters at the hotel at Mehadia, had they
+been even less good than they were.
+
+F---- and I wished the next day to get back to Karansebes; he had left
+his carriage, and I my Servian horse. A Hungarian gentleman, one of the
+late expedition, said he would arrange to have a _vorspann_, if we would
+join him, as he also wanted to go there. This well-understood plan
+insures to the traveller relays of horses, and we were only too glad to
+acquiesce in the prospect of making the journey pleasantly and quickly.
+
+The driver who was to take us the first stage came in and asked for a
+florin to get some oats for his horses. Very foolishly I gave him the
+money, nothing doubting; and off he went to spend it on _slivovitz_,
+the result being that he was soon drunk and incapable. If we had
+realised the fact at once it might have been better, but we waited and
+waited, not knowing for a long time what had happened. This upset all
+our _vorspann_ arrangements, and to our great disgust the best part of
+the day was wasted in seeking another vehicle and horses to take us to
+Karansebes. At last we succeeded in obtaining a lumbering sort of
+covered conveyance, whose speed we doubted from the first; but the
+owner, who was to drive us, declared he would get us to our journey's
+end in an incredibly short space of time.
+
+We took care to give no _pourboire_ in advance; but what with the
+inevitable dilatoriness of the people down in these parts, it was after
+seven o'clock before we left the Hercules-Bad, and we had fifty miles to
+drive.
+
+Not even the ten hours of undisturbed consecutive repose in the downy
+bed at the Mehadia hotel had made up the deficiency of sleep during the
+foregoing week, and drowsiness overcame us. I think we must have had a
+couple of hours of monotonous jog-trot on the fairly level road when I
+fell asleep, and I suppose my companions did the same.
+
+I must have slept long and profoundly, for when I woke, pulling myself
+together with some difficulty, having slept in the form of a doubled-up
+zigzag, I found it was daylight. I was surprised that we were not
+moving; I rubbed my eyes, and looked out at the back of the cart, and
+there I saw a round tower on a slight eminence, encircled by a belt of
+fir-wood, the very counterpart of a pretty bit of scenery I had noticed
+in the twilight. I looked again, and sure enough it was just the tower
+itself and no other, and the very same belt of wood. The explanation was
+not far to seek. I was the first to wake up in our "fast coach." Every
+mortal soul--and there were five of us, besides the four horses--had, it
+seems, gone to sleep much about the same time that I did. The magic
+sleep of eld must have fallen upon us. The simple fact was, we had
+passed the night in the middle of the highroad. Was there ever anything
+so ridiculous?
+
+We were about seven miles from Mehadia; I knew the country perfectly
+well. Of course we made a confounded row with the idiot of a driver, who
+certainly had been hired--not to go to sleep. I have known these
+Wallacks drive for miles in a state of somnolency, the horses generally
+keeping in the "safe middle course" of their own accord. As there were
+some awkward turns not far ahead of us, it was perhaps just as well that
+the horses stopped on this occasion.
+
+Well, we jogged on all that day, reaching Karansebes between one and two
+o'clock. We had been some eighteen hours on the road!
+
+Here F---- and I parted, my friend returning to Uibanya, while I pursued
+my way to Transylvania.
+
+I slept the night at Karansebes, rising very early; indeed I started
+soon after four o'clock. I was again on my little Servian horse, who was
+quite fresh after his long rest, and I saw no reason why I should not
+reach Hatszeg the same evening, as the distance is not more than
+forty-five miles. About two miles from Karansebes I passed a hill
+crowned with a picturesque ruin, locally called Ovid's Tower. Tradition
+fondly believes that Ovid spent the last years of his banishment, not on
+the shores of the stormy Euxine, but in the tranquillity of these lovely
+valleys. Certain it is that the name and fame of many of the great
+Romans are still known to the Wallacks; and the story is told by Mr
+Boner, that they have a catechism which teaches the children to say that
+they have Ovid and Virgil for their ancestors, and that they are
+descended from demigods!
+
+On my way I passed the villages of Ohaba, Marga, and Bukova. On arriving
+at Varhely, or Gradischtie, as it is called in Wallack language, I found
+that it was worth while to stay the night, for the sake of having the
+afternoon to examine the Roman remains scattered about the
+neighbourhood.
+
+The Wallack villages I had passed through were very miserable-looking
+places: they are generally in the south of Transylvania. The houses are
+mostly mere wattled wigwams, without chimneys; a patch of garden, rudely
+hurdled in, with the addition of a high stockaded enclosure for cattle.
+Some of the women are extremely pretty, and, as I have said before, the
+costume can be very picturesque; but they are often seen extremely
+dirty, in which case the filthy fringe garment gives them the appearance
+of savages.
+
+Varhely is conspicuous for its dirt even among Wallachian villages, yet
+once it was a royal town. It is built on the site of the famous
+Sarmisegethusa, the capital of ancient Dacia. In Trajan's second
+expedition against Decebalus, King of the Dacians, he came from Orsova
+on the Danube by the same route that forms the highroad of this day--the
+same I had traversed in my way hither. It is curious to reflect how
+nation succeeding nation tread in each other's footsteps, through the
+self-same valley, beneath the shadow of the old hills. Here they have
+trudged, old Dacian gold-seekers, returning from the daily labours of
+washing the auriferous sands of the mountain streams; here, too, have
+tramped victorious Roman soldiers--Avars, Tartars, Turks, and other
+intruders. A long and motley cavalcade has history marshalled along this
+route for two thousand years and more!
+
+The old Dacians were strong enough we know to exact a yearly tribute
+from Domitian: it was for this insult that Trajan marched upon Dacia,
+defeating Decebalus at Klausenburg, in the heart of Transylvania, which
+was at the time their greatest strong-hold. It was after this that the
+Dacian king retreated upon Sarmisegethusa, and there Trajan came down
+upon them through the Iron Gate Pass. Unable to defend themselves, the
+Dacians set fire to their royal city and fled to the mountains. On these
+ruins the Romans, ever ready to appropriate a good site, erected the
+city of Ulpia Trajana, connecting it by good roads with the existing
+Roman colonies at Karlsburg and Klausenburg.
+
+Unless the traveller had brought historic facts with him to Gradischtie,
+he would hardly be induced to search for tesselated pavements and relics
+of royalty amongst the piggeries of this dirty Wallack village. It is a
+literal fact that a very fine specimen of Roman pavement exists here in
+an unsavoury outhouse, not unknown to pigs and their congeners.
+
+This Hatszeg Valley, in the county of Hunyad, has long been celebrated
+for the richness of its Dacian and Roman antiquities. These treasures
+have unfortunately been dispersed about amongst various general
+collections of antiquity, instead of being well kept together as
+illustrative of local facts and history. The archaeologist must seek for
+these remains specially in the Ambras collection of the Archaeological
+Museum at Vienna, the National Museum at Buda Pest, in the Bruckenthal
+Museum at Herrmannstadt, also in the Klausenburg Museum. Dr H. Finaly,
+Professor of Archaeology at the University of Klausenburg, is the great
+living authority on this interesting subject. To him I am indebted for
+some information, conveyed in a letter to a private friend.[12] The
+professor alludes to the fact of the treasures being all carried away,
+adding that on the spot very little is to be found except the remains of
+Roman encampments (_castra stativa_), Roman military roads, together
+with the foundations of buildings, the materials of which however are
+usually carried away by the peasants. Nor are the records of former
+interesting discoveries to be found in one volume, but are dispersed
+about in the various publications of learned societies, such as the
+'Archaelogiaei Koezlemenyek' of the Hungarian Academy, the 'Year-Book of
+the Transylvanian Museum,' and 'Verhandlungen und Mittheilungen' of the
+Verein fur Siebenbuergische Landeskunde of Herrmannstadt.
+
+That the materials of the old Roman buildings are now used for baser
+purposes, one has abundant proof; even in my hurried inspection I saw
+many a sculptured stone and fragment of fluted column doing duty as the
+support of a wretched Wallack shanty. Another evidence of the Roman
+occupation of the country occurs in the case of certain plants now found
+growing wild, which are exotic to the soil. This, I am told, occurs in a
+marked manner at Thorda, which was known to be a Roman colony. The
+plants, it may be presumed, were brought thither by the Roman
+legionaries. The most picturesque bit of Roman antiquity is the Temple
+at Demsus, within a short drive of Varhely. It is on a small eminence
+overlooking a cluster of Wallack dwellings, and has long been used as a
+church by these people.
+
+The Hatszeg Valley, which comprehends the district I am now describing,
+is the pride of Transylvania, not less for its fertility than for its
+beauty. It has the appearance of having been filled in former geological
+ages by the waters of a widespread lake.
+
+It was a lovely afternoon, but very hot, when I rode into the little
+town of Hatszeg. Everywhere is to be seen evidence of the careful
+cultivation of the maize and other crops. Numerous villages dot the
+plain and cluster amidst the thickly-wooded hillsides. And now we come
+upon the railway system again, which has stretched out its feelers into
+the wilds of the Southern Carpathians. The railroad enters Transylvania
+by two routes. The main line is from Buda-Pest to Grosswardein, and so
+on by Klausenburg--the Magyar capital--to the present terminus of
+Kronstadt, one of the chief towns of the Saxon immigrants. This includes
+a branch to Maros Vasarhely. It is proposed to carry this line over a
+pass in the Carpathians to Bucharest. The second line of railway
+entering Transylvania starts from Arad, and terminates at Herrmannstadt,
+the Saxon capital, having a branch to the mineral district of Petroseny.
+
+It will be seen from the above that this "odd corner of Europe," as
+Transylvania has been called, is fairly well off for iron roads; and
+considering how short a time some portions of them have been opened,
+they have already borne good fruit in developing the resources of the
+country.
+
+[Footnote 12: Martin Diosy, Esq.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+     Hungarian hospitality--Wallack laziness--Fishing--"Settled
+     gipsies"--Anecdote--Old _regime_--Fire--Old Roman bath--The
+     avifauna of Transylvania--Fly-fishing.
+
+
+I had brought with me from London a letter of introduction to a
+Hungarian gentleman residing near Hatszeg, and finding his place was not
+far off, I rode over to see him the evening of my arrival.
+
+I had merely intended to make a call, but Herr von B----, with true
+Hungarian hospitality, insisted that I should stay at his house as long
+as I remained in the neighbourhood.
+
+"What! allow a stranger to remain at the inn?--impossible!" he said with
+resolute kindness.
+
+It was in vain that I made any attempt to plead that I felt it was
+trespassing too much on his hospitality. His answer was very decided. He
+put the key of the stable which held my horse in his pocket, and turning
+to one of his people he gave orders that my things should be brought
+hither from the Hatszeg inn.
+
+I was soon quite at home with my new friends, a young married couple,
+whose _menage_, though very simple, was thoroughly refined and
+agreeable. As it was my first visit to a Hungarian house, I found many
+things to interest me. Several of the dishes at table were novelties,
+the variety consisting more in the cooking than in the materials; for
+instance, we had maize dressed in a dozen different ways. It was
+generally eaten as a sort of pudding at breakfast, at which meal there
+was also an unfailing dish of water-melons. Of course we had _paprika
+handl_ (chicken with red pepper), and _gulyas_, a sort of improved Irish
+stew; and gipsy's meat, also very good, besides excellent soups and many
+nameless delicacies in the way of sweets.
+
+All Hungarian men are great smokers, but as a rule the ladies do not
+smoke; there are some exceptions, but it is considered "fast" to do so.
+
+The peasants in the Hatszeg Valley are all Wallacks, and as lazy a set
+as can well be imagined; in fact, judging by their homes, they are in a
+lower condition than those of the Banat. So much is laziness the normal
+state with these people that I think they must regard hard work as a
+sort of recreation. Their wants are so limited that there is no
+inducement to work for gain. What have they to work for beyond the
+necessary quantity of maize, _slivovitz_, and tobacco? Their women make
+nearly all the clothes. Wages of course are high--that is the trouble
+throughout the country. If the Wallack could be raised out of the moral
+swamp of his present existence he might do something, but he must first
+feel the need of what civilisation has to offer him.
+
+The village of Rea, where I was staying, is about the wildest-looking
+place one can well imagine in Europe. The habitations of the peasants
+are made of reed and straw; the hay-ricks are mere slovenly heaps,
+partially thatched; the fences are made up of odds and ends. As for
+order, the whole place might have been strewn with the _debris_ of a
+whirlwind and not have looked worse. As a natural consequence of all
+this slatternly disorder, fire is no uncommon occurrence; and when a
+fire begins, it seldom stops till it has licked the whole place clean--a
+condition not attainable by any other process.
+
+Fishing was a very favourite amusement with us, and Herr von B----
+several times organised some pleasant excursions with that object. One
+day we went up the Lepusnik, a magnificent trout-stream.
+
+We drove across the valley, and then followed a narrow gorge near the
+village of Klopotiva. The scenery was enchanting, but our fishing was
+only moderately successful; for the trout were very much larger than in
+the valley nearer home, and they bothered us sadly by carrying away our
+lines.
+
+Some way up the valley we came upon a little colony of gipsies, who were
+settled there. Their dwellings were more primitive than the Wallacks
+even. The huts are formed of plaited sticks, with mud plastered into the
+interstices; this earth in time becomes overgrown with grass, and as the
+erection is only some seven feet high, it has very much the appearance
+of an exaggerated mound or anthill, and would never suggest a human
+habitation.
+
+A fire was burning in the open, with a tripod to support the iron
+pot--just as we see in England in a gipsy's camp; and the people had a
+remarkable resemblance in complexion and feature, only that here they
+were far less civilised than with us.
+
+I entered one of the huts, in which by the way I could scarcely stand
+upright, and found there a man employed in making a variety of simple
+wooden articles for household use. The gipsies are remarkably clever
+with their hands; many of these wooden utensils are fashioned very
+dexterously, and even display some taste. The gipsy, moreover, is always
+the best blacksmith in all the country round; and as for their music, I
+have before spoken of the strange power these people possess of stirring
+the hearts of their hearers with their pathetic strains. It has often
+seemed to me that this marvellous gift of music is, as it were, a
+language brought with them in their exile from another and a higher
+state of existence.
+
+That these poor outcasts are capable of noble self-sacrifice, the story
+I am about to relate will testify. Not far from this very gipsy
+settlement, in a wild romantic glen, is a steep overhanging rock, which
+is known throughout the country as the "Gipsy's Rock," and came to be so
+called from the following tragical occurrence. It seems that many years
+ago--about the middle of the last century, I believe--there was a famine
+in the land, and the poor gipsies, poorer than all the rest, were
+reduced to great straits. Some of them came to the neighbouring village
+and begged hard for food. The selfish people turned them away, or at
+least tried to do so; but one poor fellow would not cease his
+importunities, and said that his children were literally starving.
+"Then," said one of the villagers in a mocking tone, "I will give your
+family a side of bacon if you will jump that rock."
+
+"You hear his promise?" cried the gipsy, appealing to the idle crowd. He
+said not another word, but rushing from their midst, clambered up the
+rock, and in another instant took the fatal leap!
+
+I see no reason to discredit the story, generally believed as it is in
+the district; and, happily for the honour of human nature, it has many a
+parallel, in another way perhaps, but equal in self-sacrifice and
+devotion.
+
+The gipsies in Hungary are supposed to number at least 150,000. The
+Czigany, as they are called, made their appearance early in the
+fifteenth century, having fled, it is believed, from the cruelty of the
+Mongol rulers. They were allowed by King Sigismund to settle in Hungary,
+and were called in law the "new peasants." Before the reforms of 1848
+they were in a state of absolute serfdom, and could not legally take
+service away from the place where they were born. The case of the gipsy
+was the only instance in Hungary, even in the Hungary of the old
+_regime_, of absolute serfdom; for oppressive as were the obligations of
+the land-holding peasant to his lord, yet the relation between them was
+never that of master and slave. As a matter of fact, if the Hungarian
+peasant gave up his _session_--that is to say, the land he occupied in
+hereditary use--he was free to go wheresoever he pleased, and was not
+forced to serve any master. In practice the serf would not readily
+relinquish the means of subsistence for himself and family, and
+generally preferred the burden, odious though it was, of the _robot_, or
+forced labour. This personal liberty, which the Hungarian peasant in the
+worst of times has preserved, is deep-rooted in the growth of the
+nation, and accounts for their characteristic love of freedom in the
+present day. It was this that made the freedom-loving peasant detest the
+military conscription imposed by the Austrians in 1849, an innovation
+the more obnoxious because enforced with every species of official
+brutality.
+
+The poor Czigany had not been so fortunate as to preserve even the
+Hungarian serf's modicum of liberty. Mr Paget mentions that forty years
+ago he saw gipsies exposed for sale in the neighbouring province of
+Wallachia.
+
+There are a great many "settled gipsies" in Transylvania. Of course they
+are legally free, but they attach themselves peculiarly to the Magyars,
+from a profound respect they have for everything that is aristocratic;
+and in Transylvania the name Magyar holds almost as a distinctive term
+for class as well as race. The gipsies do not assimilate with the
+thrifty Saxon, but prefer to be hangers-on at the castle of the
+Hungarian noble: they call themselves by his name, and profess to hold
+the same faith, be it Catholic or Protestant. Notwithstanding that, the
+gipsy has an incurable habit of pilfering here as elsewhere; yet they
+can be trusted as messengers and carriers--indeed I do not know what
+people would do without them, for they are as good as a general
+"parcels-delivery company" any day; and certainly they are ubiquitous,
+for never is a door left unlocked but a gipsy will steal in, to your
+cost.
+
+The gipsy is sometimes accused of having a hand in incendiary fires; but
+I believe the general testimony is in his favour, and against the
+Wallack, whose love of revenge is the ugliest feature in his character.
+These people seem to forget the saying that "curses, like chickens, come
+home to roost," for they will set fire to places under circumstances
+that not unfrequently involve themselves in ruin.
+
+We were calmly sitting one day at dinner when we heard a great row all
+at once; looking out of the window, we saw dense clouds of smoke and
+flame not a hundred yards from the house. We rushed out immediately to
+render assistance, but without water or engines of any kind it was
+difficult to do much. However, Herr von B---- and myself got on the top
+of the outhouse that was in flames, and stripped off the wooden tiles,
+removing out of the way everything that was likely to feed the fire.
+There stood close by a crowd of Wallacks, utterly panic-stricken it
+seemed: they did nothing but scream and howl as if possessed. The
+building belonged to one of them, but he only screamed louder than the
+rest, and was not a bit of use, though he was repeatedly called on to
+help. If the wind had set the other way, it would have been just a
+chance if the whole village had not been burned down. In this instance
+the fire was caused by mere carelessness.
+
+The number of excursions to be made in the Hatszeg Valley is endless. On
+one occasion I took my horse and rode off alone to inspect mines and
+mining works in the mountains. While looking over the ironworks at
+Kalan, I was told of the existence of some Roman remains in the
+neighbourhood, so taking a boy from the works with me to act as guide, I
+set off, walking, to examine the spot. He led me into the middle of a
+field, not far off the main road; and here I found the remains of a
+Roman bath of a very interesting character.
+
+It was singularly constructed. I must observe first that there was a
+protruding mass of rock rising about fifteen feet above the surrounding
+ground, and of considerable circumference. In the middle of this there
+was a circular excavation ten feet in diameter and ten feet deep. At the
+bottom I discovered a spring of tepid mineral water, which flowed away
+through a small section cut perpendicularly out of the wall of the great
+bath; judging from other incisions in the stone, a wooden slide may have
+been used to bay back the water. On the face of the rock I noticed a
+Roman inscription, but too much mutilated for me to make anything of it.
+An attempt had been evidently made to utilise this mineral water, for in
+the field were some primitive wooden bathing-houses, and not far off
+there was actually a little inn, but I fear the public had not
+encouraged the revival of the Roman bath.
+
+In poking about after game or minerals, one frequently comes upon
+evidence of the former occupation of the country. Speaking of game, the
+partridges are not preserved, and they are scarce; of course I was too
+early, but in autumn the woodcock-shooting, I understand, is first-rate.
+Quails and snipes are also common in the Hatszeg Valley.
+
+Herr von Adam Buda, or, as one should say in Hungarian, Buda Adam (for
+the Christian name always comes last), has devoted much time to the
+avifauna of Transylvania. He has a fine collection of stuffed birds at
+his residence at Rea, near Hatszeg. These are birds which he has himself
+shot, and he is quite the local authority upon the subject.
+
+I have alluded to the trout-fishing in the district. I went out
+frequently, and had generally very fair sport indeed. Mr Danford, in his
+paper in 'The Ibis,'[13] in speaking of fishing, says: "Perhaps the best
+stream in the country is the Sebes, which joins the Strell near Hatszeg.
+The trout are not bad, one to two lbs. in weight; and the
+grayling-fishing is really good--almost any number may be taken in
+autumn, when weather and water are in good order. The Sil also, near
+Petroseny, is a fine-looking river, and used to be celebrated for its
+so-called 'salmon-trout;' but these had quite disappeared when we saw
+it, having been blown up with dynamite, a method of fishing very
+commonly practised in the country, but now forbidden by law. Indeed
+fly-fishing is gaining ground, and English tackle in great demand."
+
+This practice of the wholesale destruction of fish by the use of
+dynamite has not been stopped a moment too soon; and some time must now
+elapse in certain waters before they can become properly stocked again.
+
+It was now time for me to quit the happy valley, and I bade adieu to my
+kind friends near Hatszeg. I believe if I had remained to this day, I
+should not have outstayed my welcome. I had come to pay a morning visit,
+and I stopped on more than a fortnight.
+
+The Hungarian has a particularly pleasant way of greeting a stranger
+under his own roof. He gives you the idea that he has been expecting
+you, though in reality your existence and name were unknown to him till
+he read the letter or the visiting-card with which you have just
+presented him.
+
+I now sent my portmanteau, &c., on to Herrmannstadt, packed my
+saddle-bags to take with me, and once more rode off into the wilds. My
+destination this time was Petroseny.
+
+[Footnote 13: Vol. v., The Birds of Transylvania.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+     On horseback to Petroseny--A new town--Valuable
+     coal-fields--Killing fish with dynamite and poison--Singular manner
+     of repairing roads--Hungarian patriotism--Story of Hunyadi
+     Janos--Intrusion of the Moslems into Europe.
+
+
+The history of the town of Petroseny is as short as that of some of the
+western cities of America. It began life in 1868, and is now the
+terminus of a branch railway.
+
+Before the wicked days of dynamite, and as long ago as the year 1834, a
+fisherman was leisurely catching salmon-trout up the Sil; he had time to
+look about him, and he noticed that in many places the rocks had a black
+appearance. He broke off some pieces and carried them home, when he
+found that they burned like coal; in fact he had discovered a coal mine!
+Those were simple-minded days, for instead of running off with these
+valuable cinders under his arm, fixing on an influential chairman and a
+board of directors for his new company, this good man did nothing but
+talk occasionally of the black rock that he had seen when fishing. Many
+years elapsed before any advantage was taken of this valuable discovery.
+At length a more careful search was made, and it proved that coal
+existed there in abundance! In 1867 mining was commenced on a large
+scale by the Kronstaeder Company. The next year a town was already
+growing up in the neighbourhood of the mines, and increased in a most
+surprising manner. In 1870 the railway was opened from Petroseny to
+Piski, on the main line from Arad. The growth of the place, however,
+received a check in the financial crisis of 1873.
+
+The town itself is in no way remarkable, being a mere collection of
+dwellings for the accommodation of the miners and the employes; but the
+scenery in the neighbourhood is simply magnificent. In approaching
+Petroseny the railway rises one foot in forty, no inconsiderable
+gradient.
+
+The coal-fields are partly in the hands of Government, and partly owned
+by the before-named Kronstaeder Company. Between these separate interests
+there is not much accord. The Kronstaeders say that Government has not
+behaved fairly or openly, but has secured to itself so many "claims" as
+to damage considerably the prospects of the private speculators.
+
+While at Petroseny, I heard great complaints against the Government for
+selling coal at such a low price that they must actually work at a
+loss. The Kronstaeder Verein say they are prevented in this way from
+making their fair profits, as they are obliged to sell down to the
+others. It would appear to be a suicidal policy for the pockets of the
+tax-payers to be mulcted for the sake of securing a prospective monopoly
+and the ruin of a private enterprise. As it stands it is a pretty
+quarrel.
+
+Writing in 1862, Professor Ansted says: "The coal of Hungary is of
+almost all geological ages, and though none is first-rate in point of
+quality, a large proportion is excellent fuel. The coals most valued at
+the present moment in Hungary are those of the _Secondary_ and _not_ of
+the _Palaeozoic_ period. But the great body of coal is very much newer;
+it is _Tertiary_, and till lately was regarded as of comparatively
+modern date. In the Ysil Valley there is a splendid deposit of _true_
+coal."[14] Since the time when the above was written the resources of
+the Ysil or Sil Valley--viz., Petroseny--have been abundantly developed,
+as we see, and it has been pronounced to be "one of the finest coal
+mines in Europe." One of the seams of coal is ninety feet in thickness;
+but up to the present time it has been found impossible to make it into
+coke.
+
+The miners at Petroseny are great offenders in regard to the abominable
+practice of killing fish by means of dynamite. It is very well to say
+that the law forbids it; but the administrators of the law are not
+always a terror to evil-doers, and perhaps the timely present of a dish
+of fine trout does not sharpen the energies of the officials. Another
+mode of destroying fish is practised by the Wallacks. There grows in
+this locality a poisonous plant, of which they make a decoction and
+throw it into the river, thereby killing great numbers of fish at a
+time.
+
+While driving round Petroseny I had an opportunity of seeing the
+Hungarian manner of making roads. The peasants have to work on the roads
+a certain number of days in the year, and if they possess a pair of
+oxen, these must also be brought for a specified time. An inspector is
+supposed to watch over them. One afternoon we came upon a score of
+peasants, men and women, who were engaged in mending a bridge. Their
+proceedings were just an instance of how "not to do a thing." They were
+placing trees across the gap, and the interstices they were filling up
+with leafy branches, over which was thrown a quantity of loose earth and
+stones well patted down to give the appearance of a substantial and even
+surface. Of course the first rain would wash away the earth and leave as
+nice a hole as you could wish your enemy to put his foot into. For all
+purposes of traffic the bridge was safer with the honest gap yawning in
+the traveller's face.
+
+It is said that the magistrates make matters easy and convenient for the
+peasants, if the latter, by being let off public work, attend
+gratuitously to the more pressing wants of the individual magistrate.
+
+"You see, nobody suffers but the Government," says the man of easy
+conscience, not seeing that, after all, the good condition of the roads
+concerns themselves more than the officials in the capital.
+
+In many things the Hungarians are like children, and they have not yet
+grown out of the idea that it is patriotic to be unruly. The fact is,
+the Central Government was so long in the hands of the Vienna Cabinet,
+who were obnoxious in the highest degree to the Hungarians, that the
+latter cannot get the habit of antagonism out of their minds, though the
+reconciliation carried through by Deak in 1867 entirely restored
+self-government to Hungary. "What do we want with money?" said a
+gentleman of the old school. "Money is only useful for paying taxes, and
+if we have not got it for that purpose, never mind!"
+
+On leaving Petroseny the route I proposed to myself was to take the
+bridle-path over the mountains to Herrmannstadt. But in following this
+out, I omitted to visit the Castle of Hunyad--a great mistake, for
+castles are rare in this part of Europe, and the romantic and singular
+position of Schloss Hunyad renders it quite unique in a way. It is
+situated, I am told, on a lofty spur of rock, washed on three sides by
+two rivers which unite at its base, a draw-bridge connecting the
+building with a fortified eminence high above the stream.
+
+The place is associated with the name of Hungary's greatest hero, John
+Hunyadi, who was born near by, and who subsequently built the castle.
+The story of his birth, which took place somewhere about 1400, is
+romantic enough. His mother was said to be a beautiful Wallack girl
+called Elizabeth Marsinai, who was beloved by King Sigismund. When he
+left her he gave her his signet ring, which she was to bring to him in
+Buda if she gave birth to a son.
+
+Showing all proper respect to the wishes of its parents, a child of the
+"male persuasion" made its appearance in due course of time; and the
+joyful mother, accompanied by her brother, set off walking to Buda, with
+the small boy and the ring for credentials. When resting by the way in a
+forest the child began playing with the ring, and a jackdaw, who in all
+ancient story has a weakness for this sort of ornament, pounced upon the
+shining jewel and carried it off to a tree. The brother with commendable
+quickness took up his bow and shot the bird; thus the ring was
+recovered, and the story duly related to the king, who evolved out of
+the incident a prophetic omen of the boy's future greatness. His majesty
+had the child brought up at the Court, and bestowed upon him the town of
+Hunyad and sixty surrounding villages.
+
+It was in the reign of Sigismund that the Turks first regularly invaded
+Hungary; and the young Hunyadi soon distinguished himself by a series of
+victories over the Moslems. To him Europe is indebted for the check he
+gave the Turks. He forced them to relinquish Servia and Bosnia, and in
+his time both provinces were placed under the vassalage of Hungary. We
+may go further and say that had Hunyadi's plans for hurling back the
+Moslem invaders been seconded by the other Christian powers, we should
+not have the Eastern Question upon our hands in this our day. But, alas!
+all the solicitations of this great patriot were met with short-sighted
+indifference by the Courts of Europe. It is true that the Diet of
+Ratisbon, summoned by the Emperor Frederick, voted 10,000 men-at-arms
+and 30,000 infantry to assist in repelling the Turks; and it is true
+that the Pope in those days was anti-Turkish, and vowed on the Gospels
+to use every effort, even to the shedding of his blood, to recover
+Constantinople from the infidels. The old chronicles give a curious
+account of the monk Capestrano, who, bearing the cross that the Pope had
+blessed, traversed Hungary, Transylvania, and Wallachia, to rouse the
+people to the danger that threatened them from the intrusion of the
+Moslem into Europe. Special church services were instituted; and at noon
+the "Turks' bell" was daily sounded in every parish throughout these
+border-lands, when prayers were offered up to arrest the progress of the
+common enemy of Christendom.
+
+Hunyadi's son, Matthias Corvinus, rivalled his father as a champion
+against the Turks. He was elected King of Hungary, and after reigning
+forty-two years, passed away; and the people still say, "King Matthias
+is dead, and justice with him."
+
+[Footnote 14: A Short Trip in Hungary and Transylvania, p. 242.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+     Hunting for a guide--School statistics--Old times--Over the
+     mountains to Herrmannstadt--Night in the open--Nearly setting the
+     forest on fire--Orlat.
+
+
+I found some difficulty while at Petroseny in getting a guide to convoy
+me over the mountains to Orlat, near Herrmannstadt. My Hungarian friend
+proposed that, choosing a saint's day, we should ride over to the
+neighbouring village of Petrilla, where I would certainly find some
+peasant able and willing amongst the numbers who crowd into the village
+on these occasions.
+
+Accordingly we went over, and I was very pleased I had gone, for the
+rural gathering was a very pretty and characteristic sight. The people
+from all the country round were collected together in the churchyard,
+dressed of course in their bravery, and a very goodly show they made.
+They were the finest Wallacks I had seen anywhere; they were superior
+looking in physique, and many of them must really have been well off, if
+one may judge a man's wealth by the richness of the wife's dress.
+
+Some of the young girls were very pretty, and wore their silver-coin
+decorations with quite a fashionable coquettish air. The Wallack women,
+whether walking or standing, never have the spindle out of their hands:
+the attitude is very graceful, added to which the thread must be held
+daintily in the fingers. They are very industrious, making nearly all
+the articles of clothing for the family.
+
+After a great deal of palavering--I think we must have spoken to every
+able-bodied man in the churchyard--I at last induced a young Wallachian
+to say he would accompany me. He spoke a little German, which was a
+great advantage. I told him to procure himself a good horse, and to take
+care that all his arrangements were completed before night, as I wished
+to start very early the following morning.
+
+To this he replied that it would be quite necessary to start early, and
+begged to know if five o'clock would be too soon; adding that as I must
+pass through Petrilla, would I meet him at the corner of the churchyard?
+
+To this I agreed, repeating that we were to meet not a moment later than
+five o'clock. My friend and I returned to Petroseny, and the afternoon
+was occupied in making preparations for two days on the mountains. I
+supplied myself with a good amount of _slivovitz_, as a medium of
+exchange for milk and cheese with the shepherds, who understand this
+kind of barter much better than any money transactions.
+
+The next day, when it came, brought a continuance of good weather, and I
+was up betimes, looking forward with pleasure to the mountain ride. I
+reached Petrilla a few minutes after five o'clock; but my man was not at
+the churchyard corner, whereupon I rode all round the churchyard,
+thinking he might by mistake have pitched on some odd corner, and be out
+of sight under the trees. However, I looked in vain--a man on horseback
+is not hidden like a lizard between two stones! Verily he was not there.
+
+I waited half an hour all to no purpose. I now resolved to try and find
+out where he lived. I had understood that he belonged to the village.
+After a great deal of trouble and bother, and poking of my nose into
+various interiors where the families were still _en deshabille_, I
+unearthed my guide. He coolly said that he was waiting for the horse,
+which was to be brought to him by some other lazy fellow not yet up.
+
+I could not speak Wallachian, and he pretended not to understand a word
+of my wrathful tirade in German, which was all nonsense, because I
+found later that he spoke that language fairly well. I insisted that he
+should come with me to find the horse, and so he did at last, in a
+dilatory sort of way, and then it turned out that the animal was waiting
+at the other end of the village for his rider.
+
+Well, thought I, we shall start now; but no, there were two to that
+bargain. The Wallack calmly informed me that he must return to his hut,
+for he had not breakfasted. Not to lose sight of him, I returned too. He
+then with Oriental deliberation set about making a fire, and proceeded
+to cook his _polenta_ of maize. I had got hungry again by this time,
+though I had breakfasted at Petroseny before starting, so I partook of
+some of his mess, which was exceedingly good, much better than oatmeal
+porridge.
+
+In consequence of all these delays it was after eight o'clock before we
+really started. The horse which my guide had procured for himself was a
+wretched animal--a tantalising object for vultures and
+carrion-crows--instead of being a good strong horse, as I had stipulated
+he should be; but there was no help for it now, so on we went.
+
+My companion soon gave me to understand in good German that he was a
+superior sort of fellow. He had been to school at Hatszeg, and knew a
+thing or two. I have heard it stated that the Wallacks are so quick
+that they make great and rapid progress at first, distancing the German
+children; but that they seem to stop after a while, and even fall back
+into ignorance and their old slovenly ways of life.
+
+On referring to the statistics of Messrs Keleti and Beoethy, I see that
+only eleven per cent of Roumains (Wallacks) attend the primary schools,
+and this percentage had not increased between the years 1867 and 1874.
+The percentage of the Magyars attending the primary schools is
+forty-nine per cent, while the Slavs, again, are twenty-one.
+
+"The world is only saved by the breath of the school-children," says the
+Talmud. A conviction of this truth makes every inquiry into educational
+progress extremely interesting. According to M. Keleti's tables,
+fifty-three per cent of the males and sixty-two per cent of the females
+in Hungary generally are still illiterates. This excludes from the
+calculation children under six years of age. On comparing notes, other
+countries do not come out so very much better. It is calculated that 30
+per cent of French conscripts are unable to read; moreover, in _our_
+"returns" of marriages in England in 1845, a percentage of forty-one
+signed the register with _marks_. In 1874 the number of illiterates was
+reduced to twenty-one per cent.
+
+I elicited a good many interesting facts from my Wallack guide, several
+that were confirmatory of the terrible ignorance existing amongst the
+priesthood of the Greek Church. The popes do not commend themselves to
+the good opinion of the male part of the community, whatever hold they
+may have on the superstition of the women. I cannot see myself how
+things are to be mended till the position and education of the
+priesthood are improved. It is said that, in the old days before '48,
+when the peasants had to render forced labour to the lord of the land,
+the Transylvanian nobles would have the village pope up to the castle,
+and keep him there for a fortnight in a state of intoxication, thus
+preventing his giving out the saints' days at the altar on Sunday. This
+was done that their own harvest-work should proceed without the
+inconvenience of suspending operations at a critical time on _fete_
+days, the people themselves being too ignorant to consult the calendar!
+
+The Magyar nobles are improved, and do not play these pranks now; but
+very little progress, I imagine, has been made on the side of the
+priests. Chatting with my Wallack guide helped to beguile the tedious
+nature of the ride, an ascent over roughish ground all the way. Arriving
+at the summit, we made a noonday halt.
+
+A fire was soon burning, whereat our dinner of robber-steak was
+roasted; but the halt was shorter than usual, for I was anxious to push
+on, remembering how much time had been lost at starting.
+
+We now gained the other side of the mountain-chain, passing the remains
+of an old Turkish camp, the outlines of which were quite visible. From
+this point there is a magnificent view, interminable forests to the
+eastward clothing the deep ravines that score the hillsides. The
+accidents of light and shade were particularly happy on this occasion,
+bringing out various details in the picture in a very striking manner.
+As a general rule, there is no time so unpropitious for scenic effect as
+noonday.
+
+We passed from the grassy Alpen down into the thick of the forest,
+losing very soon any glimpse of the distant view, or any help from
+conspicuous landmarks. It was a labyrinth of trees, with tracks crossing
+each other in a most perplexing manner. I could not have got on without
+a guide.
+
+When the evening approached I thought it was time to look out for
+quarters for the night. Our first necessity was water, but we went on
+and on without coming upon a stream. It was provoking, for we had passed
+so many springs and rivulets earlier in the day, and now darkness
+threatened to wrap us round with the mantle of night before we had
+arranged our bivouac. When the sun sets in the East, it is like turning
+off the gas; you are left in darkness suddenly, without any intervening
+twilight. As a fact one knows this perfectly well; but habit is stronger
+than reason, and day after day I went on being perplexed, and often
+unready for the "early-closing" system.
+
+"Water we must have," said I to the Wallack. "Let us strike off from the
+direct route and follow the lead of this valley, we shall find water in
+the bottom for a certainty."
+
+We hurried forward, leading our horses through the thick undercover,
+always diving deeper into the ravine. At length I discovered a trickling
+amongst the stones, and a little farther on we came upon a grassy spot
+beneath some enormous pine-trees. It was an ideal place for a bivouac!
+
+When the horses had been carefully picketed, we proceeded to make a fire
+and cook our supper, which consisted of gipsy-meat and tea.
+
+The meal finished to my perfect satisfaction, (how good everything
+tastes under such circumstances!) I then stretched myself on a sloping
+bank overspread by a thick covering of dry _needle-wood_, as the Germans
+call the leaves of the fir-tree. How soft and clean it felt, and how
+sweet the aromatic perfume that pervaded the whole place! Lighting my
+pipe, I gave myself up to the perfect enjoyment of repose amidst this
+romantic scene. The Wallack, covered by his fur _bunda_, was already
+asleep, and save the bubbling of the water in the little stream, and the
+crackling of the fire, there was absolutely not a sound or a breath.
+Through the tasselled pine branches, festooned with streamers of grey
+moss, I could see the stars shining in the blue depths of ether. One can
+realise in these regions the intense _depth_ of the heavens when seen at
+night; we never get the same effect in our "weeping skies."
+
+Before wrapping my plaid round me for the night, I threw some fresh wood
+on the fire, which, crushing down upon the hot embers, sent up a
+scintillating shower of sparks that ran a mad race in and out of the
+greenery. I saw that the horses were all right, I put my gun handy, and
+then I gave myself up to sleep.
+
+I do not know how long I had slept, but I was conscious of being
+bothered, and could not rouse myself at once. I dreamed that a bear was
+sniffing at me, but instead of being the least surprised or frightened,
+I said to myself in my dream, as if it was quite a common occurrence,
+"That's the bear again, he always comes when I am asleep." The next
+moment, however, I was very effectually awakened by a tug that half
+lifted me off the ground. I must mention that I had tied my horse's
+halter to my waist-belt in case of any alarm in the night, for I sleep
+so soundly always that no ordinary noise or movement ever wakes me. I
+sprang up of course, calling the Wallack at the same time. Something had
+frightened the horses, and they had attempted to bolt. We found them
+trembling from head to foot, but we could not discover the cause of
+their fright. I fired off my revolver twice; the Wallack in the meantime
+had lighted a bundle of resinous fir branches as a torch. He had
+carefully arranged it before he slept; it is a capital thing, as it
+gives a good light on an emergency.
+
+After making an examination of the place all round, and finding nothing,
+we made up a bright fire, and again laid ourselves down to rest. I had
+my saddle for a pillow, and it was not half bad. Before giving myself
+over to sleep I listened and listened again, but I heard nothing except
+the hooting of the owls answering each other in the distance. The night
+had grown very cold, and a heavy dew was falling, but notwithstanding
+these discomforts I had another good nap.
+
+Next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we were off early. Instead of
+going uphill again to recover our former route, we followed the stream,
+which gradually increased in size, and we came at last to a place where
+a dam had been thrown across the valley with the object of floating the
+wood cut in the forest. This small lake was very pretty; the water was
+as clear as crystal. Farther on we came upon another dam of larger
+dimensions; but though it had evidently been quite recently constructed,
+there was no one about, and no signs of wood-cutting. Here we began to
+ascend again, and about mid-day got to a place called La Durs, a
+customhouse for cattle coming from Roumania; it is not absolutely on the
+frontier, but very near it. I heard later that this district has a bad
+reputation for smugglers and robbers, the latter being on the increase,
+it is said; always the same story of unrepressed lawlessness on the
+frontier.
+
+We made no stay at the customhouse, but rode on a couple of miles
+farther, where, coming upon a nice spring, we dined. Not a single
+shepherd had we met, so there had been no chance of bartering for milk;
+it was not surprising, because our track had been almost entirely in the
+forests, and of course the shepherds are higher up on the Alpen. At this
+last halting-place we nearly set the forest on fire. The grass was very
+dry all round, and before I was aware of it, the fire ran along the
+ground and caught the trees. It blazed up in an inconceivably short
+time. I rushed up directly, to cut off what branches I could with my
+bowie-knife; but though calling loudly to the Wallack to assist me, he
+never concerned himself in the least. This exasperated me beyond
+measure, seeing what mischief was likely to accrue from the
+misadventure. Luckily a man came up, riding on one horse and leading
+another, and he readily gave me a helping hand, and between us we put
+out the fire. The Wallack never raised a finger!
+
+Getting into conversation with the new-comer, I found that he was going
+to Orlat, whereupon I arranged to go on with him. Accordingly I paid my
+guide, and was not sorry to have done with him, he had so disgusted me
+about the fire, and I was especially glad to get quit of his wretched
+horse, which had greatly retarded our progress. I transferred my
+saddle-bags to the spare horse, and we got on much faster, reaching
+Orlat by sunset.
+
+Before descending into the plain we had a magnificent view.
+Herrmannstadt seemed almost at our feet, though in reality it was still
+a long way off; the Fogaraser Mountains stretching away towards
+Kronstadt, appeared in all their picturesque irregularity, and along the
+plain at their base were scattered the villages of the Saxonland, each
+with its fortress-church, a relic of the old time, when the brave
+burghers had to hold their own against Turk and Tartar.
+
+At Orlat I found a small inn, but they had no travellers' room in it;
+however some of the family were good enough to turn out, and I was very
+glad to turn in, and that rather early.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+     Herrmannstadt--Saxon immigrants--Museum--Places of interest in the
+     neighbourhood--The fortress-churches--Heltau--The Rothen Thurm
+     Pass--Turkish incursions.
+
+
+The following morning a ride of ten miles brought me to Herrmannstadt.
+Here I put up at the Hotel Neurikrer, a comfortable house; it was a new
+sensation getting into the land of inns. The fact is, the Saxons are not
+indifferent to the existence of inns; it relieves them of the necessity
+of hospitality. The Hungarian will take the wheels off his guest's
+carriage and hide them to prevent his departure, whereas the Saxon would
+be more inclined to speed the parting guest with amiable alacrity. There
+is an old-world look about Herrmannstadt that gives one the sensation of
+being landed in another age; it is a case of Rip Van Winkle, only
+"t'other way round," as the saying is: one has awakened from the sleep
+in the hills to walk down into a mediaeval town, finding the speech and
+fashions of old Germany--Luther's Germany!
+
+The Saxon immigrants in Hungary number nearly two millions. The greater
+proportion of these is found in Transylvania; the rest, some forty
+thousand, have a compact colony under the shadow of the Tatra Mountains,
+in the north of Hungary, called from time immemorable the "Free
+District." But it was to the slopes of the Southern Carpathians, to the
+"land beyond the forest," where the first Saxons came and settled. It is
+still called "Altland," being the oldest of their possessions in
+Hungary. In fact this appellation of the "Oldland" belongs, strictly
+speaking, to the Herrmannstadt district. Formerly no Hungarian was
+allowed to settle in the town, so jealous were the burghers of their
+privileges. I believe the earliest date of the Saxon immigration is
+1143. The country had been wasted by the incursions of the Tartars, and
+in consequence the Servian Princess Helena, widow of the blind King Bela
+of Hungary, invited them hither during the minority of her son, Geysa
+II. They appear to have come from Flanders, and from the neighbourhood
+of Cologne. They were tempted to this strange land by certain privileges
+and special rights secured to them by the rulers of Hungary, and
+faithfully preserved through many difficulties; as a fact the Saxons of
+Transylvania retained their self-government down to the middle of this
+century.
+
+These people have played no unimportant part in European history; for
+Herrmannstadt and Kronstadt, the sister towns of Saxon Transylvania,
+were called the bulwarks of Christianity all through the evil days of
+Moslem invasion. Herrmannstadt was called by the Turks the "Red Town" on
+account of the colour of its brick walls. It was besieged in 1438 with a
+force of 70,000 men headed by the Sultan Amurad himself, and great were
+the rejoicings amongst the brave burghers when it became known that an
+arrow directed from one of the towers had rid them of their foe! Trade
+and commerce must have prospered, by all accounts, in those days; and
+the burghers made themselves of importance, for King Andrew II., a man
+far in advance of his time, summoned them to assist in consultation at
+the Imperial Parliament. The wealth of Herrmannstadt is a thing of the
+past; the place has now the appearance of a dead level of competence,
+where riches and poverty are equally absent. There were no new houses
+building to supply an increasing population, nor, I should say, had any
+been built for many years.
+
+The town is prettily situated on a slight elevation above the
+surrounding plain; it has the fine range of the Fogaraser Mountains as a
+background. The old moat, where Amurad fell pierced by the well-directed
+arrow, has been turned into a promenade; parts of the fortifications
+remain in a state of picturesque ruin. Herrmannstadt is the seat of the
+Protestant Bishop of Transylvania, and there is a fine old church,
+which, however, has suffered severely in the process of restoration.
+
+The interior of the church is in that unhappy condition which bespeaks
+the churchwarden's period--whitewash plastered over everything,
+obliterating lights and shades and rare carvings beneath a glare of
+uncouth cleanliness. In their desire to remove every object that could
+harbour dust or obstruct the besom of reform, they have bodily removed
+from the church many rich monuments and interesting effigies, and these
+are to be seen huddled away in an obscure corner of the churchyard. The
+church has a large collection of richly-embroidered vestments belonging
+to the pre-Reformation days.
+
+Herrmannstadt is decidedly rich in collections. The Bruckenthal Library
+contains an illuminated missal of great beauty; the execution is
+singularly fine, and the designs very artistic. The curious thing is
+that the history of this rare volume is unknown; by some it is believed
+to have come from Bohemia during the time of the troubles in that
+country, however nothing is positively known. The book is of the finest
+vellum, containing 630 pages in small quarto. The pictures of
+architecture and scenery are extremely interesting; the first represent
+buildings familiar to us in old German towns, and the rural scenes
+depict a variety of agricultural instruments, together with many details
+of home life in the olden time. The colours of the birds and flowers are
+as bright as if only finished yesterday. The ingenuity of the design is
+very striking; no two objects are alike. It would have taken hours to
+have looked over the volume thoroughly.
+
+In the palace, of which the museum forms a part, there is a gallery of
+pictures, collected by the Baron Bruckenthal, formerly governor of
+Transylvania. The history of these pictures is very curious, they were
+mostly purchased from French refugees at the time of the first
+revolution. It appears that both at that period, and at the revocation
+of the Edict of Nantes, many French families had sought an asylum in
+Hungary and Transylvania. In the Banat I am told there are two or three
+villages inhabited entirely by people who came originally from France;
+they retain only their Gallic names, having adopted the Magyar tongue
+and utterly lost their own. This little colony of the Banat belonged of
+course to the Huguenot exodus. I had now an opportunity of examining a
+collection of the Roman antiquities obtained from the Hatszeg Valley.
+
+I remained several days at Herrmannstadt, principally for the sake of
+resting my horse, which unfortunately had been rubbed by the saddle-bags
+on my ride from Petroseny. I spent the time agreeably enough, exploring
+the neighbourhood and making chance acquaintances. I bought here Bishop
+Teusch's 'History of Transylvanian Saxons,' a handy-book in two volumes.
+It interested me very much, especially reading it in the country itself
+where so many stirring scenes had been enacted.
+
+Wishing to see some of the neighbouring villages, I set off one fine day
+on a walking expedition. I chose Sunday, because on that day one can see
+to best advantage the costume of the peasants. Hammersdorf is a pretty
+enough village, "fair with orchard lawns," but not so charming as
+Heltau, which, standing on high ground, commands an extensive view of
+the whole plain, with the old "Red Town" in the foreground of the
+picture. The church in this village is a very fine specimen of the
+fortified churches, which are a unique feature of the Transylvanian
+border-land. The origin of this form of architecture is very obvious; it
+was necessary to have a defence against the incursions of the Tartars
+and Turks, who for centuries troubled the peace of this fair land. In
+every village of the Saxons in the south and east of Transylvania the
+church is also a fortified place, fitted to maintain a siege if
+necessary. The construction of these buildings varies according to
+circumstances: the general character is that the sacred edifice is
+surrounded, or forms part of a strong wall with its watch-towers; not
+unfrequently a second and even a third wall surround the place. In every
+case a considerable space of ground is enclosed around the church,
+sufficient to provide accommodation for the villagers; in fact every
+family with a house outside had a corresponding hut within the fortified
+walls. Here, too, was a granary, and some of the larger places had also
+their school-tower attached to the church. It happened not unfrequently
+that the villagers were obliged to remain for some weeks in their
+sanctuary.
+
+Heltau is an industrious little place. Here is manufactured the peculiar
+white frieze so much worn by the Wallacks. Nearly every house has its
+loom, but I was told the trade is less flourishing than formerly. The
+woollen-cloth manufacturers of Transylvania have suffered very much from
+the introduction of foreign goods; but, on the other hand, if they would
+bestir themselves they might enormously increase their exports. Heltau
+is a market-place, and reserves many old privileges very jealously. Its
+inhabitants were often in dispute with the burghers of Herrmannstadt,
+and on one occasion they had the audacity, in rebuilding their
+church-tower, to place four turrets upon it. Their neighbours regarded
+this with great indignation, for are not four turrets the sign and
+symbol of _civic_ authority? The burghers of Herrmannstadt hereupon
+obliged the men of Heltau to sign a bond, saying that "they were but
+humble villagers," and promising to treat their haughty neighbours with
+all due "honour, fear, and friendship."
+
+From Heltau I went on to Michaelsburg, an extremely curious place. In
+the centre of a lovely valley rises a conical rock of gneiss, protruding
+to the height of 200 feet or more. This is crowned by the ruins of a
+Romanesque church. There are, I believe, only two other specimens of
+this kind of architecture in the country. The time of the building of
+Michaelsburg is stated to be between 1173 and 1223. Before the use of
+artillery this fortified church on the rock must have been really
+impregnable. Inside the walls I found a quantity of large round
+stones--the shot and shell of those days; these stones were capable of
+making considerable havoc amongst a besieging party I should say. The
+custom was in the old time that no young man should be allowed to take
+unto himself a wife till he had carried one such stone from the bed of
+the river where they are found, to the summit of the rock within the
+church walls. As these stones weigh between two and three hundredweight,
+and the ascent is very steep, it was a test of strength. The villagers
+were anxious to prevent the weaklings from marrying lest they should
+spoil the hardy race.
+
+The view from the village itself is very pretty, home-like, and with a
+more familiar look about the vegetation than I had seen elsewhere. There
+were orchards of cherry-trees, and hedges, as in our west country,
+festooned with wild hops and dog-roses. Every girl I met was busily
+engaged plaiting straw as she walked. This straw is for hats of a
+particular kind for which the place is famed. Besides this industry, the
+people are great bee-keepers, and make a good trade by selling the
+honey. The produce of the hives in the Southern Carpathians is the very
+poetry of honey; it is perfectly delicious, not surpassed by that of
+Hymettus or Hybla, so famed in ancient story. This "mountain honey"
+sometimes reaches the London market, but, unfortunately, not with any
+regularity. It is most difficult to make these people practical in their
+trade dealings; and as for _time_, they must have come into the world
+before it was talked about.
+
+I made a short excursion into the Rothen Thurm Pass, the principal road
+across the Southern Carpathians, if we except the Tomoescher Pass from
+Kronstadt, which, owing to local circumstances, has become more
+important. The Rothen Thurm or Red Tower Pass is extremely picturesque.
+It is traversed by the Aluta, which though rising in the Szeklerland in
+the north-east, finds its way through the Carpathian range, flowing at
+length into the Lower Danube. The red tower stands at the narrowest part
+of the defile, an important position of defence; and not far from this
+spot signal victory was gained by the Christians over the infidels. In
+the year 1493 the Turks made one of their frequent raids into
+Transylvania. They had succeeded in collecting a vast amount of booty,
+including many fair young maidens and tender youths, and were returning
+in long cavalcade through the Red Tower Pass. Here, however, they fell
+into an ambuscade arranged by the men of Herrmannstadt, headed by their
+burgomaster, the brave George Hecht. At a concerted signal the Saxons
+rushed upon the despoilers with such a fierce and sudden onslaught, that
+though the Turks far exceeded them in number, they were completely
+overpowered. Many a turbaned corpse lay that day on the green margin of
+the classical Aluta, and few, very few, of the hated Turks, it is said,
+escaped over the frontier to tell the tale of their disaster. How many a
+home must have been gladdened by the sight of the rescued children after
+that happy victory!
+
+These abductions are not altogether a thing of the past. In the autumn
+of 1875, the very date of my tour, a paragraph appeared in a Pest
+newspaper stating that a young girl of great beauty in the neighbourhood
+of Temesvar, in the Banat of Hungary, had been secretly carried off into
+Turkey without the knowledge or consent of her parents. It was further
+stated that these scandalous proceedings were of very frequent
+occurrence in the border provinces. For some years past the supply of
+beautiful Circassians has been deficient, it is said, so doubtless the
+harems of Constantinople are supplied with Christian maidens to make up
+the numbers. The late Sultan--I mean the one who committed suicide--was
+considered a moderate man, and he had eight hundred women in his harem,
+at least so a relative of mine was credibly informed at Constantinople.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+     Magyar intolerance of the German--Patriotic revival of the Magyar
+     language--Ride from Herrmannstadt to Kronstadt--The village of
+     Zeiden--Curious scene in church--Reformation in
+     Transylvania--Political bitterness between Saxons and Magyars in
+     1848.
+
+
+My horse being all right again, I thought it high time to push on to
+Kronstadt, which is nearly ninety miles from Herrmannstadt by road.
+There is railway communication, but not direct; you have to get on the
+main line at the junction of Klein Koepisch--in Hungarian, Kis Kapus--and
+hence to Kronstadt, called Brasso by the non-Germans. This confusion of
+names is very difficult for a foreigner when consulting the railway
+tables. I have often seen the names of stations put up in three
+languages. Herrmannstadt is Nagy Szeben. The confusion of tongues in
+Hungary is one of the greatest stumbling-blocks to progress; and
+unfortunately it is considered patriotic by the Magyar to speak his own
+language and ignore that of his neighbour.
+
+It happened to me once that I entered an inn in a Hungarian town, and
+addressing the waiter, I gave my orders in German, whereupon an elderly
+gentleman turned sharply upon me, saying--also in German, observe--"It
+is the custom to speak Hungarian here."
+
+"I am not acquainted with the language, sir," I replied. "German is not
+to be spoken here--Hungarian or nothing," he retorted. I simply turned
+on my heel with a gesture of impatience. It was rather too much for any
+old fellow, however venerable and patriotic, to condemn me to silence
+and starvation because I could not speak the national lingo, so in the
+irritation of the moment I rapped out an English expletive, meant as an
+aside. Enough! No sooner did the testy old gentleman hear the familiar
+sound, invariably associated with the travelling Britisher in old days,
+than he turned to me with the utmost urbanity, saying in French, "Pardon
+a thousand times, I thought you were a German from the fluency of your
+speech; I had no idea you were an Englishman. Why did you not tell me at
+once? What orders shall I give for you? How can I help you?" It ended in
+our dining together and becoming the best friends; in fact he invited me
+to spend a week with him at his chateau in the neighbourhood. In the
+course of conversation I could not help asking him why, as he spoke
+German himself and the people in the inn also understood it--in fact I
+am not sure but what it was their mother-tongue--why he would not allow
+the language to be spoken?
+
+"We are Hungarians here," he replied, going off into testiness again,
+"and we do not want that cursed German spoken on all sides. I, for one,
+will move heaven and earth to get my own language used in my own
+country. Ha, ha! the Austrians wanted us to have their officials
+everywhere on the railway. We have put a stop to that; now every
+man-jack of them must speak Hungarian. It gave an immensity of trouble,
+and they did not like it at all, I can tell you."
+
+I did not attempt to argue with the old gentleman, for his views were
+inextricably mixed up with feelings and patriotism.
+
+As a matter of fact, in the early part of this century the Magyar
+language was hardly spoken by the upper classes except in communicating
+with their inferiors; but when the patriotic Count Stephen Szechenyi
+first roused his fellow-countrymen to nobler impulses and more
+enlightened views, he held forth the restoration of the national
+language as the first necessity of their position. In his time it meant
+breaking down the barrier which separated classes. He was the first in
+the Chamber of Magnates who spoke in the tongue understood by the
+people; hitherto Latin had been the language of the Chambers. With the
+exception of a group of poets--Varosmazty, Petoefy, Kolcsey, and the
+brothers Kisfaludy--there were hardly any writers who employed their
+native language in literature or science. Count Szechenyi set the
+fashion, he wrote his political works in Hungarian, and what was more,
+assisted in establishing a national theatre.
+
+There is perhaps no place where Shakespeare is so often given as at the
+Hungarian theatre at Buda-Pest, and it is said by competent judges that
+their translation of our great poet is unequalled in any language,
+German not excepted.
+
+To a foreigner the Hungarian tongue appears very difficult, because of
+its isolated character and its striking difference from any other
+European language. In Cox's 'Travels in Sweden,' published in the last
+century, he mentions that Sainovits, a learned Jesuit, a native of
+Hungary, who had gone to Lapland to observe the transit of Venus in
+1775, remarked that the Hungarian and Lapland idioms were the same; and
+he further stated that many words were identical. As a Turanian
+language, Hungarian has also an alliance with the Turkish as well as the
+Finnish; but there are only six and a half millions of Magyars who speak
+the language, and by no possibility can it be adopted by any other
+peoples.
+
+For their men of letters it is an undeniable misfortune to have so
+restricted a public; a translated work is never quite the same. The
+question of language must also limit the choice of professors in the
+higher schools and at the university. But political grievances are mixed
+up with the language question, and of those I will not speak now, while
+I am still in Saxonland, where they do not love the Magyar or anything
+belonging to him.
+
+Returning to the itinerary of my route, I left Herrmannstadt very early
+one morning, getting to Fogaras by four o'clock; it was about
+forty-seven miles of good road. This little town is celebrated for the
+cultivation of tobacco. There is a large inn here, which looked
+promising from the outside, but that was all; it had no _inside_ to
+speak of--no food, no stable-boy, nothing. After foraging about I got
+something to eat with great difficulty, and feeling much disgusted with
+my quarters, I sallied forth to find the clergyman of the place, to whom
+I introduced myself.
+
+I spent the evening at his house, and found him a very jolly old fellow;
+he entertained me with a variety of good stories, some of them relating
+to the tobacco-smuggling. The peasants are allowed to grow the precious
+weed on condition that they sell it all to the State at a fixed rate.
+Naturally, if they otherwise disposed of it, they would be able to make
+a much larger profit, as it is a monopoly of the State. They have a
+peculiar way of mystifying the exciseman as to the number of leaves on a
+string, for this is the regulation way of reckoning; besides which,
+wholesale smuggling goes on at times, and waggon-loads are got away.
+Occasionally there is a fight between the officials and the peasants.
+
+I had intended getting on to Kronstadt the next day, but I stopped at
+the Saxon village of Zeiden. The clergyman, on hearing that there was a
+stranger in the place, hastened to the inn, where he found me calmly
+discussing my mid-day meal. He would not hear of my going on to
+Kronstadt, but kindly invited me to be his guest. I heard a great deal
+later of his unvarying hospitality to strangers.
+
+The next day being Sunday, of course I went to church with my host. The
+congregation, including their pastor, wore the costume of the middle
+ages; it was a most curious and interesting sight. I am never a good
+hand at describing the details of dress, but I know my impression was
+that the pastor--wearing a ruff, I think, or something like it--might
+just have walked out of a picture, such as one knows so well of the old
+Puritans in Cromwell's time. The dress of the peasants, though unlike
+the English fashion of any period, had an old-world look. The married
+women wore white kerchiefs twisted round the head, sleeveless jackets,
+with a mystery of lace adornments. The marriageable girls sat together
+in one part of the church, which I thought very funny; they wore
+drum-shaped hats poised on the head in a droll sort of way. Some of them
+had a kind of white leather pelisse beautifully wrought with embroidery.
+Each girl carried a large bouquet of flowers. These blue-eyed German
+maidens were many of them very pretty, and all were fresh looking and
+exquisitely neat. It was an impressive moment when the whole
+congregation joined in singing--
+
+    _"Ein feste Burg ist unser Gott;"_
+
+"the Marseillaise of the Reformation," as Heine calls Luther's hymn,
+"that defiant strain that up to our time has preserved its inspiring
+power."
+
+The Reformation spread with wonderful rapidity throughout the length and
+breadth of Hungary, more especially in Transylvania. It appears that the
+merchants of Herrmannstadt, who were in the habit of attending the great
+fair at Leipsic, brought back Luther's writings, which had the effect of
+setting fire to men's minds. At one time more than half Hungary had
+declared for the new doctrines, but terrible persecutions thinned their
+ranks. According to the latest statistics there are 1,109,154 Lutherans
+and 2,024,332 Calvinists in Hungary. The Saxons of Transylvania belong
+almost exclusively to the Reformed faith; they had always preserved in a
+remarkable degree their love for civil and political freedom, hence
+their minds were prepared to receive Protestantism. Three monks from
+Silesia, converts to Luther's views, came into these parts to preach,
+passing from one village to another, and in the towns they "held
+catechisings and preachings in the public squares and market-places,"
+where crowds came from all the country round to hear them. The peasants
+went back to their mountain homes with Bibles in their hands; and since
+that time the simple folk, through wars and persecutions, have held
+steadfast to their faith.
+
+Herrmannstadt became a second Wittenberg: the new doctrine was not more
+powerful in the town where Luther lived. Several bishops joined the
+party of the seceders, and already the towns throughout Hungary had
+generally declared for the Reformation; in many the "Catholic priests
+were left, as shepherds without flocks."[15] When Popish ceremonies
+aroused the ridicule of the people, and when even in country districts
+the priests who came to demand their tithes were dismissed without their
+"fat ducks and geese," there was a general outcry against the new
+heresy. The Romish party knew their strength at the Court of Vienna. At
+the instigation of the Papal legate Cajetan, Louis II. issued the
+terrible edict of 1523, which ran as follows: "All Lutherans, and those
+who favour them, as well as all adherents to their sect, shall have
+their property confiscated and themselves be punished with death as
+heretics and foes of the most holy Virgin Mary."
+
+While the monks were stirring up their partisans to have the Lutherans
+put to death, a national misfortune happened which saved Protestantism,
+at least in Transylvania. Soliman the Magnificent set out from
+Constantinople in the spring of 1526 with a mighty host, which came
+nearer and nearer to Hungary like the "wasting levin." King Louis lost
+his army and his life at the battle of Mohacks, leaving the Turks to
+pursue their way into the heart of the country, slaughtering upwards of
+200,000 of its inhabitants. To this calamity, as we all know, succeeded
+an internal civil war, resulting from the rival claims of John Zapolya
+and the Archduke Ferdinand of Austria for the crown of Hungary.
+Transylvania took advantage of this critical time to achieve her
+independence under Zapolya, consenting to pay tribute to the Porte on
+condition of _receiving assistance against the tyranny of Austria_. Thus
+it came about that the infidel Turks helped to preserve the Reformation
+in this part of Europe: they became the defenders of Protestant
+Transylvania against the tyranny of Roman Catholic Austria. "Sell what
+thou hast and depart into Transylvania, where thou wilt have liberty to
+profess the truth," were the words spoken by King Ferdinand himself to
+Stephen Szantai, a zealous preacher of the gospel in Upper Hungary, whom
+he desired to defend.
+
+It is said that the first printing-press set up in Hungary was the gift
+of Count Nadasdy to Matthias Devay, who was devoted to the education of
+youth; and the first work that was issued from the press was a book for
+children, teaching the rudiments of the gospel in the language of the
+country. The same Protestant nobleman aided the publication in 1541 of
+an edition of the New Testament in the Magyar tongue. "It is a
+remarkable fact," says Mr Patterson,[16] "connected with the history of
+Protestantism, that all its converts were made within the pale of
+_Latin_ Christianity. In the nationalities of Hungary there belonged to
+Latin Christianity the Magyars, the Slovacks, and the Germans."
+
+In Transylvania the progress of Protestantism was secured. In 1553 the
+Diet declared in favour of the Reformation by a majority of votes, and
+while the province was governed by Petrovich, during the minority of
+Zapolya's infant son, he freed the whole of Transylvania from the
+jurisdiction of the Roman hierarchy.
+
+When the Turks were finally expelled from Hungary by the second battle
+of Mohacks in 1686, Protestantism had grown strong enough in
+Transylvania to extract from the house of Hapsburg the celebrated
+_Diploma Leopoldium_ (their Magna Charta), which secured to them
+religious liberty once and for ever.
+
+[Footnote 15: See The History of Protestantism, by Rev. J.A. Wylie, Part
+29.]
+
+[Footnote 16: The Magyars; their Country and Institutions.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+     Political difficulties--Impatient criticism of foreigners--Hungary
+     has everything to do--Tenant-farmers wanted--Wages.
+
+
+It is remarkable that the Saxons in Transylvania, who had suffered so
+much tribulation from the religious persecutions of the house of
+Hapsburg, preferring even to shelter themselves under the protection of
+the Turk, should be the first to support the tyranny of Austria against
+the Magyars in 1848.
+
+I visited at the house of a village pastor, who told me he had himself
+led four hundred Saxons against the Hungarians at that time. The
+remembrance of that era is not yet effaced; so many people not much
+beyond middle age had taken part in the war that the bitterness has not
+passed out of the personal stage. Pacification and reconciliation, and
+all the Christian virtues, have been evoked; but underlying the calm
+surface, all the old hatreds of race still exist. Nothing assimilates
+socially or politically in Hungary. The troubled history of the past
+reappears in the political difficulty of the present. And what can be
+done when the Magyar will not hold with the Saxon, and the Saxon cannot
+away with the Szekler? Are not the ever-increasing Wallacks getting
+numerically ahead of the rest, while the Southern Slavs threaten the
+integrity of the empire?
+
+Prosperity is the best solvent for disaffection. When the resources of
+Hungary are properly developed, and wealth results to the many, bringing
+education and general enlightenment in its train, there will be a common
+ground of interest, even amongst those who differ in race, religion, and
+language. It was a saying of the patriotic Count Szechenyi, and the
+saying has passed into a proverb, "Make money, and enrich the country;
+an empty sack will topple over, but if you fill it, it will stand by its
+own weight."
+
+"You call yourselves 'the English of the East,'" I said one day to a
+Hungarian friend of mine; "but how is it you are not more practical,
+since you pay us the compliment of following our lead in many things?"
+
+"You do not see that in many respects we are children, the Hungarians
+are children," replied my friend. "'We are not, but we shall be,' said
+one of our patriots. You Britishers are rash in your impatient
+criticism of a state which has not come to its full growth. It is hardly
+thirty years since we emerged from the middle ages, so to speak; and you
+expect our civilisation to have the well-worn polish of Western States.
+Think how recently we have emancipated our serfs, and reformed our
+constitution and our laws. Take into account, too, that just as we were
+setting our house in order, the enemy was at the gate--progress was
+arrested, and our national life paralysed; but let that pass, we don't
+want to look back, we want to look forward. We have still to build up
+the structure that with you is finished; we are deficient in everything
+that a state wants in these days, and in our haste to make railways,
+roads, and bridges, to erect public buildings, and to promote industrial
+enterprises, we make certain financial blunders. You must not forget
+that we in Hungary are much in the same state that you were in England
+in the thirteenth century, before tenant-holdings had become general. We
+shall gradually learn to see the advantages to be derived from letting
+land on your farm system. There is nothing we desire so much as the
+creation of the tenant-farmer class, which hardly exists yet. Large
+estates would be far better divided and let as farms on your system. We
+are in a transition state as regards many things in agricultural
+matters. English or Scotch farmers would be welcomed over here by the
+great landowners. Your countryman, Professor Wrightson, convinced
+himself of this when he was here in 1873. If they could command some
+capital, the produce of the land in many instances could be doubled."
+
+I asked my friend about labourers' wages, but he said it was difficult
+to give any fixed rate. A mere agricultural day-labourer would get from
+1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d.; sometimes the evil practice of paying wages in kind
+obtained--viz., a man receives so much Indian corn (_kukoricz_). And not
+unfrequently a peasant undertakes to plough the fields twice, to hoe
+them three times, and to see the crop housed, for which he receives the
+half of the yield provided he has furnished the seed. The peasants' own
+lands, as a rule, are very badly managed; their ploughing is shallow,
+and they do nothing or next to nothing in the way of drainage.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+     Want of progress amongst the Saxons--The
+     Burzenland--Kronstadt--Mixed character of its
+     inhabitants--Szeklers--General Bem's campaign.
+
+It was a glorious morning when I left the comfortable village of Zeiden.
+Before me were the rich pastures of the Burzenland, a tract which
+tradition says was once filled up by the waters of a great lake, till
+some Saxon hero hewed a passage through the mountains in the Geisterwald
+for the river Aluta, thus draining this fertile region.
+
+The mountainous wall to the rear of Zeiden is clothed by magnificent
+hanging woods, which at the time I describe were just tinged with the
+first rich touches of autumn. It was a lovely ride through this fertile
+vale. On every side I saw myself surrounded by the lofty Carpathians, or
+the lesser spurs of that grand range of mountains; the higher peaks to
+the south and south-east were already capped with snow. The village in
+which I had so agreeably sojourned for a couple of days almost rises to
+the dignity of a little town, for it has nearly 4000 inhabitants.
+Considering its situation, on the verge of this rich plain, and many
+other local circumstances, it is, I suppose, a very favourable example
+of a German settlement in Transylvania. I had been struck by the extreme
+neatness of the dwellings and the generally well-to-do air of the
+people, but there is nothing progressive about these Saxons. I saw
+plainly that what their fathers did before them they do themselves, and
+expect their sons to follow in the same groove. There is amongst them
+generally a dead level of content incomprehensible to a restless
+Englishman.
+
+When I asked why they did not try to turn this or that natural advantage
+to account, I was met with the reply, "Our fathers have done very well
+without it, why should not we?" I could never discover any inclination
+amongst the Saxons to initiate any fresh commercial enterprise either at
+home or abroad, nor would they respond with any interest to the most
+tempting suggestions as to ways and means of increasing their
+possessions. It is all very well to draw the moral picture of a
+contented people. Contentment under some circumstances is the first
+stage of rottenness. The inevitable law of change works the
+deterioration of a race which does not progress. This fact admits of
+practical proof here. For instance, the cloth manufactures of
+Transylvania are falling into decay, and there is nothing else of an
+industrial kind substituted. The result is a decrease of the general
+prosperity, and a marked diminution in the population of the towns. Nor
+is this the case in populous places only. The Saxon villager desires to
+transmit the small estate he derived from his father intact to his
+_only_ son. He does not desire a large family; it would tax his energies
+too much to provide for that. It is deeply to be lamented that a
+superior race like the educated Saxons of Transylvania, who held their
+own so bravely against Turk and Tartar, and, what was more difficult
+still, preserved their religious liberty in spite of Austrian Jesuits,
+should _now_ be losing their political ascendancy, owing mainly to their
+displacement by the Wallacks. According to the last census, the German
+immigrants in Hungary are estimated at 1,820,922. I have no means of
+making an accurate comparison, but I hear on all hands that the numbers
+are diminished. There are, besides, proofs of it in the case of villages
+which were exclusively Saxon having now become partly, even wholly,
+Wallachian.
+
+There are wonderfully few chateaux in this picturesque land. In my
+frequent rides over the Burzenland I rarely saw any dwellings above what
+we should attribute to a yeoman farmer. As a matter of fact there are
+fewer aristocrats in this part of Hungary, or perhaps I should say this
+part of Transylvania, than in any other.
+
+After my pleasant morning's ride I found myself at Kronstadt, and put up
+at Hotel "No. 1"--an odd name for a fairly good inn. There is another
+farther in town--the Hotel Bucharest--also a place of some pretension.
+The charges for rooms generally in the country are out of all proportion
+to the accommodation given. Travellers are rare, at least they used to
+be before the present war; but Kronstadt is the terminus of the direct
+railway from Buda-Pest, which, communicating with the Tomoescher Pass
+over the Carpathians, is the shortest route to Bucharest.
+
+As far as the buildings are concerned, Kronstadt has much the air of an
+old-fashioned German town. As you pass along the streets you get a peep
+now and then of picturesque interior courtyards, seen through the
+wide-arched doorways. These courts are mostly surrounded by an open
+arcade. Generally in the centre of each is set a large green tub holding
+an oleander-tree. This gives rather an Oriental appearance to these
+interiors. The East and West are here mixed up together most curiously.
+Amongst the fair-haired, blue-eyed Saxons are dusky Armenians and
+black-ringleted Jews, wearing strange garments. By the way, the
+merchants of these two races have ousted the Saxon trader from the
+field; commerce is almost completely in their hands.
+
+The market-day at Kronstadt is a most curious and interesting sight. The
+country-people come in, sitting in their long waggons, drawn by four
+horses abreast, they themselves dressed in cloaks of snow-white
+sheepskins, or richly-embroidered white leather coats lined with black
+fur. The head-gear too is very comely, and very dissimilar; for there
+are flat fur caps--like an exaggerated Glengarry--and peaked hats, and
+drum-shaped hats for the girls, while the close-twisted white kerchief
+denotes the matron. The Wallack maiden is adorned by her dowry of coins
+hanging over head and shoulders, and with braids of plaited black
+hair--mingled, I am afraid, with tow, if the truth must be spoken.
+
+Kronstadt is rather a considerable place; the population is stated to be
+27,766, composed of Saxons, Szeklers, and Wallacks, who have each their
+separate quarter. It is most beautifully situated, quite amongst the
+mountains; in fact it is 2000 feet above the sea-level. The Saxon part
+of the town is built in the opening of a richly-wooded valley. The
+approach from the vale beyond--the Burzenland, of which I have spoken
+before--is guarded by a singular isolated rock, a spur of the
+mountain-chain. This natural defence is crowned by a fortress, which
+forms a very picturesque feature in the landscape. Formerly the town was
+completely surrounded by walls, curtained on the hillside, reminding one
+of Lucern's "coronal of towers." In the "brave days of old" the
+trade-guilds were severally allotted their forts for the defence of the
+town--no holiday task for volunteers, as in our "right little, tight
+little island."
+
+Though the dangers of the frontier are by no means a thing of the past,
+the town walls and the towers are mainly in ruins, overgrown with wild
+vines and other luxuriant vegetation. As no guidebook exists to tell one
+what one ought to see, and where one ought to go, I had all the pleasure
+of poking about and coming upon surprises. I was not aware that the
+church at Kronstadt is about the finest specimen of fourteenth-century
+Gothic in Transylvania, ranking second only to the Cathedral of Kashau
+in Upper Hungary.
+
+My first walk was to the Kapellenburg, a hill which rises abruptly from
+the very walls of the town. An hour's climb through a shady zigzag
+brought me to the summit. From thence I could see the "seven villages"
+which, according to some persons, gave the German name to the province,
+Siebenbuergen, "seven towns." The level Burzenland looked almost like a
+green lake; beyond it the chain of the Carpathian takes a bend, forming
+the frontier of Roumania. The highest point seen from thence is the
+Schuelerberg, upwards of 8000 feet, and a little farther off the
+Koenigstein, and the Butschrtsch, the latter reaching 9526 feet. Hardly
+less picturesque is the view from the Castle Hill. Quite separated from
+the rest of the town is the quarter inhabited by the Szeklers. This
+people constitute one of four principal races inhabiting Transylvania.
+They are of Turanian origin, like the Magyars, but apparently an older
+branch of the family. When the Magyars overran Pannonia in the tenth
+century, under the headship of the great Arpad, they appear to have
+found the Szeklers already in possession of part of the vast Carpathian
+horseshoe--that part known to us as the Transylvanian frontier of
+Moldavia. They claim to have come hither as early as the fourth century.
+It is known that an earlier wave of the Turanians had swept over Europe
+before the incoming of the Magyars, and the so-called Szeklers were
+probably a tribe or remnant of this invasion, the date of which,
+however, is wrapped in no little obscurity.
+
+This is certain, that they have preserved their independence throughout
+all these ages in a very remarkable manner. "They are all 'noble,'" says
+Mr Boner, "and proudly and steadfastly adhere to and uphold their old
+rights and privileges, such as right of limiting and of pasture. They
+had their own judges, and acknowledged the authority of none beside.
+Like their ancestors the Huns, they loved fighting, and were the best
+soldiers that Bem had in his army. They guarded the frontier, and
+guarded it well, of their own free-will; but they would not be compelled
+to do so, and the very circumstance that Austria, when the border system
+was established, obliged them to furnish a contingent of one infantry
+and two hussar regiments sufficed to alienate their regard."[17] In
+another place Mr Boner says, "The Szekler soldier, I was told, was
+'excessive,' which means extreme, in all he did."
+
+In the view of recent events, it may be worth while to recall to mind a
+few particulars of General Bem's campaign in Transylvania. In no part of
+Hungary was the war of independence waged with so much bitterness as
+down here on these border-lands. The Saxons and the Wallacks were
+bitterly opposed to the Magyars; and on the 12th of May, in the eventful
+'48, a popular meeting was held at Kronstadt, where they protested
+vehemently against union with Hungary, and swore allegiance to the
+Emperor of Austria. Upon this the Szeklers flew to arms--on the side of
+the Magyars, of course; throughout their history they have always made
+common cause with them. In the autumn of the same year, Joseph Bem, a
+native of Galicia, who had fought under Marshal Davoust, later with
+Macdonald at the siege of Hamburg, and had also taken part in the
+Polish insurrection of 1830, attached himself to the Hungarian cause. He
+had formed a body of troops from the wrecks and remnants of other corps,
+and soon by his admirable tactics succeeded on two occasions in beating
+the Austrians at the very outset of his campaign; the latter of these
+victories was near Dees, to the north of Klausenburg, where he defeated
+General Wardener. The winter of that terrible year wore on. In
+Transylvania it was not merely keeping back the common enemy, the
+invader of the soil, but it was a case where the foes were of the same
+township, and the nearest neighbours confronted each other on opposite
+ranks.
+
+The Austrians meanwhile had called in the Russians to aid them in
+crushing the Hungarians; and at the time it was believed that the Saxons
+of Transylvania had instigated this measure. It is easy to understand
+how the Russians would be hated along with their allies; it was a
+desperate struggle, and well fought out by Magyars and Szeklers, ably
+handled by General Bem. Herrmannstadt and Kronstadt both fell into his
+hands, after a vigorous defence by the Austro-Russian garrisons; in
+fact, by the middle of March '49, the whole of Transylvania, with the
+exception of Karlsburg and Deva, was held by the troops of this
+fortunate general. But, as we all know, the Hungarian arms were not so
+successful elsewhere, and the end of that struggle was approaching,
+which was to find its saddest hour at Villagos on the 13th of August,
+when the Hungarians were cajoled into laying down their arms before the
+Russians!
+
+The rest of the miserable story had better not be dwelt upon. Much has
+changed in these few years. Now a Hapsburg recognises the privilege of
+mercy amongst his kingly attributes. The last words of Maximilian, the
+ill-fated Emperor of Mexico, were, "Let my blood be the last shed as an
+offering for my country." Since then capital punishment has become of
+rare occurrence in Austria; and remembering his brother's death, the
+Emperor, it is said, can hardly be induced to sign a death-warrant!
+
+[Footnote 17: Boner's Transylvania, p. 624.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XX.
+
+     The Tomoescher Pass--Projected railway from Kronstadt to
+     Bucharest--Visit to the cavalry barracks at Rosenau--Terzburg
+     Pass--Dr Daubeny on the extinct volcanoes of Hungary--Professor
+     Judd on mineral deposits.
+
+
+Kronstadt is a capital place as headquarters for any one who desires to
+explore the neighbouring country. One of my first expeditions was to
+Sinia, a small bath-place in the Tomoescher Pass, just over the
+borders--in fact in Roumania. Here Prince Charles has a charming
+chateau, and there are besides several ambitious Swiss cottages
+belonging to the wealthy grandees of Roumania. My object was not so much
+to see the little place, as it was to explore this pass of the
+Carpathians, now so familiar to newspaper correspondents and others
+since the Russo-Turkish war began.
+
+As I mentioned before, a railway is projected from Kronstadt through
+this pass, which will meet the Lemberg and Bucharest line at Ployesti,
+that station being less than two hours from the Roumanian capital. Up to
+the present hour not a sod of this railway has been turned; but
+curiously enough, with only two or three exceptions, all the "war maps"
+have made the capital mistake of marking it down as a _completed_ line.
+In the autumn of 1875, when I was there, the levels had been taken and
+the course marked down; if it is ever really carried out, it will be one
+of the most beautiful railway drives in Europe. It is a most important
+link in the railway system of Eastern Europe. The Danube route is
+frequently, indeed periodically, closed by the winter's ice, and
+sometimes by the drought of summer, in which case the traveller who
+wants to get to Roumania must take the train from Buda-Pest to
+Kronstadt, and thence by road through the Tomoescher Pass to Ployesti.
+
+There is a diligence service twice daily, occupying fourteen hours or
+thereabouts, dependent, of course, on the state of the roads, which can
+be very bad--inconceivably bad. For the sake of the excursion I took a
+place in the _postwagen_ one day as far as Sinia, where there is a
+modern hotel and very tolerable quarters. The scenery of the pass is
+very romantic. In places the road winds round the face of the precipice,
+and far below is a deep sunless glen, through which the mountain torrent
+rushes noisily over its rocky bed; at other times you skirt the stream
+with its green margin of meadow--a pastoral oasis amidst the wild
+grandeur of bare limestone peaks and snowy summits. The autumnal
+colouring on the hanging woods of oak and beech was something more
+brilliant than I ever remember to have seen; the effect of being oneself
+in shadow and seeing the glory of the sunlight on the foliage of the
+other side of the defile, was most striking. Above this ruby mountain
+rose other heights with a girdle of dark fir, and higher still were
+visible yet loftier peaks, clothed in the dazzling whiteness of
+fresh-fallen snow. In the Southern Carpathians there is no region of
+perpetual snow, but the higher summits are generally snow-clad late in
+the spring and very early in the autumn. I was told there is good
+bear-hunting in this district.
+
+While at Kronstadt I made the acquaintance of some Austrian officers
+quartered in the neighbourhood. They kindly invited me to the cavalry
+barracks at Rosenau, and accordingly I went over for a few days. The
+barracks were built by the people of the village, or rather small town,
+of Rosenau; for they were obliged by law to quarter the military, and to
+avoid the inconvenience of having soldiers billeted upon them they
+constructed a suitable building. The cavalry horses were nearly all in a
+bad plight when I was there, for they had an epidemic of influenza
+amongst them; but we found a couple of nags to scramble about with, and
+made some pleasant excursions. One of our rides was to a place called
+"The Desolate Path," a singularly wild bit of scenery, and curiously in
+contrast to the rich fertility of Rosenau and its immediate
+neighbourhood. This pretty little market town lies at the foot of a
+hill, which is crowned with a romantic ruin, one of the seven burgher
+fortresses built by the Saxon immigrants. There is a remarkably pretty
+walk from the village to the "Odenweg," a romantic ravine, with
+beautiful hanging woods and castellated rocks disposed about in every
+sort of fantastic form. It reminded me somewhat of some parts of the
+Odenwald near Heidelberg. Very likely the wild and mysterious character
+of the spot led the German settlers to associate with it the name of
+Oden.
+
+We also rode over the Terzburg Pass. The picturesque castle which gives
+its name to this pass is situated on an isolated rock, admirably
+calculated for defence in the old days. It belonged once upon a time to
+the Teutonic Knights, who held it on condition of defending the
+frontier; but they became so intolerable to the burghers of Kronstadt,
+that these informed their sovereign that they preferred being their own
+defenders, and thus the castle and nine villages were given over to the
+town. The Germans who had left their own Rhine country for the sake of
+getting away from the robber knights were not anxious for that special
+mediaeval institution to accompany them in their flitting, we may be
+sure. The democratic character of the laws and customs of the Germans of
+Transylvania is a very curious and interesting study; in not a few
+instances these people have anticipated by some centuries the liberal
+ideas of Western Europe in our own day.
+
+After returning from the visit to my military friends at Rosenau, I was
+told I must not omit to make some excursions to the celebrated mineral
+watering-places of Transylvania. The chief baths in this locality are
+Elopatak and Tusnad. The first named is four hours' drive from
+Kronstadt. The waters contain a great deal of protoxide of iron,
+stronger even than those of Schwalbach, which they resemble. Tusnad, I
+was told, is pleasantly situated on the river Aluta, an excellent stream
+for fishing. The post goes daily in eight hours from Kronstadt. The
+season is very short, being over in August. Tusnad is said to contain
+one hundred springs of different kinds of water. I am not a
+water-totaller, so I did not taste all of them when I visited the place
+later on; but undoubtedly alum, iodine, and iron do severally impregnate
+the various springs.
+
+I remembered reading long ago Dr Daubeny's work on "Volcanoes," in which
+he says that Hungary is one of the most remarkable countries in Europe
+for the scale on which volcanic operation has taken place. There are, it
+is stated, seven well-marked mountain groups of volcanic rocks, and two
+of these are in Transylvania. The most interesting in many respects is
+the chain of hills separating Szeklerland from Transylvania Proper. It
+is within this district that most of the mineral springs are found.
+
+These volcanic rocks are of undoubted Tertiary origin, say the
+geologists. The whole range is for the most part composed of various
+kinds of trachytic conglomerate. "From the midst of these vast tufaceous
+deposits, the tops of the hills, composed of trachyte, a rock which
+forms all the loftiest eminences, here and there emerge.... The trachyte
+is ordinarily reddish, greyish, or blackish; it mostly contains mica. In
+the southern parts, as near Csik Szereda, the trachyte encloses large
+masses, sometimes forming even small hillocks, of that variety of which
+millstones are made, having quartz crystals disseminated through it, and
+in general indurated by silicious matter in so fine a state of division
+that the parts are nearly invisible. The latter substance seems to be
+the result of a kind of sublimation which took place at the moment of
+the formation of the trachyte.... Distinct craters are only seen at the
+southern extremity of the chain. One of the finest observed by Dr Bone
+was to the south of Tusnad. It was of great size and well characterised,
+surrounded by pretty steep and lofty hills composed of trachyte. The
+bottom of the hollow was full of water. The ground near has a very
+strong sulphureous odour. A mile to the SSE. direction from this point
+there are on the tableland two large and distinct _maars_ like those of
+the Eifel--that is to say, old craters, which have been lakes, and are
+now covered with a thick coat of marsh plants. The cattle dare not graze
+upon them for fear of sinking in. Some miles farther in the same
+direction is the well-known hill of Budoshegy (or hill of bad smell), a
+trachytic mountain, near the summit of which is a distinct rent,
+exhaling very hot sulphureous vapours.... The craters here described
+have thrown out a vast quantity of pumice, which now forms a deposit of
+greater or less thickness along the Aluta and the Marosch from Tusnad to
+Toplitza. Impressions of plants and some silicious wood are likewise to
+be found in it."[18]
+
+Since Dr Daubeny's time there have been many observers over the same
+ground, the most distinguished being the Hungarian geologist Szabo,
+professor at the University of Buda-Pest. A countryman of our own has
+also taken up the subject of the ancient volcanoes of Hungary, and has
+recently published a paper on the subject. Professor Judd has confined
+his remarks principally to the Schemnitz district in the north of
+Hungary. But the following passage refers to the general character of
+the formation. Professor Judd says:[19] "The most interesting fact with
+regard to the constitution of these Hungarian lavas, which in the
+central parts of their masses are often found to assume a very coarsely
+crystalline and almost granitic character, while their outer portions
+present a strikingly scoriaceous or slaggy appearance, remains to be
+noticed. It is, that though the predominant felspar in them is always of
+the basic type, yet they not unfrequently contain _free quartz_,
+sometimes in very large proportion. This free quartz is in some cases
+found to constitute large irregular crystalline grains in the mass, just
+like those of the ordinary orthoclase quartz-trachytes; but at other
+times its presence can only be detected by the microscope in thin
+sections. These quartziferous andesites were by Stache, who first
+clearly pointed out their true character, styled 'Dacites,' from the
+circumstance of their prevalence in Transylvania (the ancient Dacia)."
+
+In concluding this highly instructive and interesting memoir of the
+volcanic rocks of Hungary, Professor Judd says: "The mineral veins of
+Hungary and Transylvania, with their rich deposits of gold and silver,
+cannot be of older date than the Miocene, while some of them are
+certainly more recent than the Pliocene. Hence these deposits of ore
+must all have been formed at a later period than the clays and sands on
+which London stands; while in some cases they appear to be of even
+younger date than the gravelly beds of our crags!"
+
+For any one who desires to geologise in Hungary and Transylvania there
+is abundant assistance to be obtained in the maps which have been issued
+by the Imperial Geological Institute of Vienna, under the successive
+direction of Haidinger and Von Hauer. "These are geologically-coloured
+copies of the whole of the 165 sheets of the military map of the empire;
+and these have been accompanied by most valuable memoirs on the
+different districts, published in the well-known 'Jahrbuch' of the
+Institute. Franz von Hauer has further completed a reduction of these
+large-scale maps to a general map consisting of twelve sheets, with a
+memoir descriptive of each, and has finally in his most valuable and
+useful work, 'Die Geologie und ihre Anwendung auf die Kenntniss der
+Bodenbeschaffenheit der Osterrungar. Monarchie,' which is accompanied by
+a single-sheet map of the whole country, summarised in a most able
+manner the entire mass of information hitherto obtained concerning the
+geology of the empire."
+
+I have given this passage from Mr Judd's paper because there exists a
+good deal of misapprehension amongst English travellers as to what has
+really been done with regard to the geological survey of Austro-Hungary.
+
+[Footnote 18: A Description of Active and Extinct Volcanoes, by C.
+Daubeny, p. 133. 1848.]
+
+[Footnote 19: 'On the Ancient Volcano of the District of Schemnitz,
+Hungary,' Quarterly Journal, Geo. Soc., August 1876.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXI.
+
+     A ride through Szeklerland--Warnings about robbers--Bueksad--A look
+     at the sulphur deposits on Mount Buedos--A lonely lake--An
+     invitation to Tusnad.
+
+
+Feeling curious not only about the geology of the Szeklerland, but
+interested also in the inhabitants, I resolved to pursue my journey by
+going through what is called the Csik. I made all my arrangements to
+start, but wet weather set in, and I remained against my inclination at
+Kronstadt, for I was impatient now to be moving onwards.
+
+When I was in Hungary Proper they told me that travelling in
+Transylvania was very dangerous, and that it was a mad notion to think
+of going about there alone. Now that I was in Transylvania, I was amused
+at finding myself most seriously warned against the risk of riding alone
+through the Szeklerland. Every one told some fresh story of the
+insecurity of the roads. Curiously enough, foreigners get off better
+than the natives themselves; people of indifferent honesty have been
+known to say, "One would not rob a stranger." It happened to me that
+one day when riding along--in this very Szeklerland of ill-repute--I
+dropped my Scotch plaid, and did not discover my loss till I arrived at
+the next village, where I was going to sleep. I was much vexed, not
+thinking for a moment that I should ever see my useful plaid again.
+However, before the evening was over, a peasant brought it into the inn,
+saying he had found it on the road, and it must belong to the Englishman
+who was travelling about the country. The finder would not accept any
+reward!
+
+There was a fair in the town the day I left Kronstadt. The field where
+it is held is right opposite Hotel "No. 1," and the whole place was
+crowded with country-folks in quaint costumes--spruce, gaily-dressed
+people mixed up with Wallack cattle-drivers and other picturesque
+rascals, such as gipsies and Jews, and here and there a Turk, and, more
+ragged than all, a sprinkling of refugee Bulgarians. Though it was a
+scene of strange incongruities--a very jumble of races--yet it was by no
+means a crowd of roughs; on the contrary, the well-dressed, well-to-do
+element prevailed. The thrifty Saxon was very much there, intent on
+making a good bargain; the neatly-dressed Szekler walked about holding
+his head on his shoulders with an air of resolute self-respect--they
+are unmistakable, are these proud rustics. Many a fair-haired Saxon
+maiden too tripped along, eyeing askance the peculiar "get-up" of the
+Englishman as he was about to mount his noble steed and ride forth into
+the wilds. If I was amused by the crowd, I believe the crowd was greatly
+amused at my proceedings. Mine own familiar friend, I verily believe,
+would have passed me by on the other side, I cut so queer a figure. As
+usual on these occasions, I had sent forward my portmanteau, this time
+to Maros Vasarhely; but everything else I possessed I carried round
+about me and my horse somehow, and I am not a man "who wants but little
+here below."
+
+Besides my _toilette de voyage_, I had my cooking apparatus, a small jar
+of Liebig's meat, and some compressed tea, and other little odds and
+ends of comforts. I had also provided myself with some bacon and
+_slivovitz_ for barter, a couple of bottles of the spirit being turned
+into a big flask slung alongside of my lesser flask for wine. Nor was
+this all, for having duly secured my saddle-bags, I had the plaid and
+mackintosh rolled up neatly and strapped in front of the saddle; then my
+gun, field-glass, and roll of three maps were slung across my shoulders.
+_Nota bene_ my pockets were full to repletion. In my leathern belt was
+stuck a revolver, handy, and a bowie-knife not far off.
+
+But the portrait of this Englishman as he appeared to the Kronstadt
+people on that day is not yet complete. His legs were encased in Hessian
+boots; his shooting-jacket was somewhat the worse for wear; and his hat,
+which had been eminently respectable at first starting, had acquired a
+sort of brigandish air; and to add to the drollery of his general
+appearance, the excellent little Servian horse he rode was not high
+enough for a man of his inches.
+
+With my weapons of offence and defence I must have appeared a "caution"
+to robbers, and it seems that the business of the fair was suspended to
+witness my departure. I was profoundly unconscious at the time of the
+public interest taken in my humble self, but later I heard a very
+humorous account of the whole proceeding from some relatives who visited
+Kronstadt about three weeks afterwards. I believe I am held in
+remembrance in the town as a typical Englishman!
+
+Well, to take up the thread of my narrative--like Don Quixote, "I
+travelled _all_ that day." If any reader can remember Gustave Dore's
+illustration of the good knight on that occasion, he will have some idea
+of how the sky looked on this very ride of mine. As evening approached,
+the settled grey clouds, which had hung overhead like a pall all the
+afternoon, were driven about by a rough wind, which went on rising
+steadily. The grim phantom-haunted clouds came closer and closer round
+about me as darkness grew apace, and now and then the gust brought with
+it a vicious "spate" of rain. With no immediate prospect of shelter, my
+position became less and less lively. I had not bargained for a night on
+the highroad, or lodgings in a dry ditch or under a tree. Indeed those
+luxuries were not at hand; for trees there were none bordering the road,
+or in the open fields which stretched away on either side; and as for a
+_dry_ ditch, I heard the streams gurgling along the watercourses, which
+were full to overflowing, as well they might be, seeing that it had
+rained for three days.
+
+My object was to reach the village of Bueksad, but where was Bueksad now
+in reference to myself? I had no idea it was such a devil of a way off
+when I started. I had foolishly omitted to consult the map for myself,
+and had just relied on what I was told, though I might have remembered
+how loosely country-people all the world over speak of time and space.
+
+When at length the darkness had become perplexing--_entre chien et
+loup_, as the saying is--I met a peasant with a fierce-looking
+sheep-dog by his side. The brute barked savagely round me as if he meant
+mischief, and I soon told the peasant if he did not call off his dog
+directly I would shoot him. He called his dog back, which proved he
+understood German, so I then asked if I was anywhere near Bueksad. To my
+dismay he informed me that it was a long way off; how long he would not
+say, for without further parley he strode on, and he and his dog were
+soon lost to view in the thick misty darkness.
+
+Not a furlong farther, I came suddenly upon a house by the roadside, and
+a man coming out of the door with a light at the same moment enabled me
+to see "Vendeglo" on a small signboard. Good-luck: here, then, was an
+inn, where at least shelter was possible; and shelter was much to be
+desired, seeing that the rain was now a steady downpour. On making
+inquiries, I found that I was already in Bueksad. The peasant had played
+off a joke at my expense, or perhaps dealt me a Roland for an Oliver,
+for threatening to shoot his dog. A _paprika handl_ was soon prepared
+for me. In all parts of the country where travellers are possible, the
+invariable reply to a demand for something to eat is the query, "Would
+the gentleman like _paprika handl_?" and he had better like it, for his
+chances are small of getting anything else. While I was seeing after my
+horse, the woman of the inn caught a miserable chicken, which I am sure
+could have had nothing to regret in this life; and in a marvellously
+short time the bird was stewed in red pepper, and called _paprika
+handl_.
+
+I was aware that Count M---- owned a good deal of property in the
+neighbourhood of Bueksad, and as I had a letter of introduction to his
+bailiff, I set off the next morning to find him. My object in coming to
+this particular part of the country was principally to explore that
+curious place Mount Buedos, mentioned by Dr Daubeny and others. I wanted
+to see for myself what amount of sulphur deposits were really to be
+found there. Count M----'s bailiff was very ready to be obliging, and he
+provided me with a guide, and further provided the guide with a horse,
+so that I had no difficulty in arranging an expedition to the mount of
+evil smell.
+
+Having arranged the commissariat as usual, I started one fine morning
+with my guide. We rode for about two hours through a forest of majestic
+beech-trees, and then came almost suddenly, without any preparation,
+upon a beautiful mountain lake, called St Anna's Lake. It lies in a
+hollow; the hills around, forming cup-like sides, are clothed with
+thick woods down to its very edge. Looking down from above, I saw the
+green reflection of the foliage penetrating the pellucid water till it
+met the other heaven reflected below. The effect was very singular, and
+gave one the idea of a lovely bit of world and sky turned upside down;
+it produced, moreover, a sort of fascination, as if one must dive down
+into its luring depths. No human sight or sound disturbed the weird
+beauty of this lonely spot. I longed at last to break the oppressive
+silence, and I fired off my revolver. This brought down a perfect volley
+of echoes, and at the same time, from the highest crags, out flew some
+half-dozen vultures; they wheeled round for a few moments, then
+disappeared behind the nearest crest of wood.
+
+My guide soon set about making a fire; and while dinner was being
+cooked, I bethought me I would have a bath. I took a header from a
+projecting rock, but I very soon made the best of my way out of the
+water again. It was icy cold; I hardly ever recollect feeling any water
+so cold--I suppose because the lake is so much in shadow. After the meal
+we pushed on to Buedos, another two hours of riding; this time through a
+forest so dense that we could scarcely make our way. At last we reached
+a path, and this brought us before long to a roughly-constructed
+log-hut. This, I was told, was the "summer hotel." Further on there
+were a few more log-huts, the "dependence" of the hotel itself. The
+bathing season was over, so hosts and guests had alike departed. This
+must be "roughing it" with a vengeance, I should say; but my guide told
+me that very "high-born" people came here to be cured.
+
+It is a favourite place, too, for some who desire the last cure of all
+for life's ills; a single breath of the gaseous exhalations is death.
+One cleft in the hill is called the "Murderer;" so fatal are the fumes
+that even birds flying over it are often known to drop dead! The
+elevation of Mount Buedos is only 3800 feet; there are several caves
+immediately below the highest point. The principal cave is ten feet high
+and forty feet long, the interior being lower than the opening. A
+mixture of gases is exhaled, which, being heavier than the atmosphere,
+fills it up to the level of the entrance; and when the sun is shining
+into the cave, one can see the gaseous fumes swaying to and fro, owing
+to the difference of refraction.
+
+I experienced a sensation which has often been noticed here before. On
+entering the cave, and standing for some minutes immersed in the gas,
+but with my head above it, I had the feeling of warmth pervading the
+lower limbs. I might have believed myself to be in a warm bath up to
+the chest. This is a delusion, however, for the gaseous exhalation is
+pronounced by experimenters to be cooler, if anything, than the air; I
+suppose they mean the air of an ordinary summer day. The walls of the
+cave arc covered with a deposit of sulphur, and at the extreme end drops
+of liquid are continually falling. This moisture is esteemed very highly
+for disease of the eyes; it is collected by the peasants. The gas-baths
+are resorted to by persons suffering from gout or rheumatism. They are
+taken in this manner: The patient wears a loose dress over nothing else,
+and arriving at the mouth of the cave, he must take one long breath.
+Instantly he runs into the dread cavern, remaining only as long as he
+can hold his breath; he then rushes back again. One single inhalation,
+and he would be as dead as a door-nail! How the halt and lame folk
+manage I don't know, but my guide was eloquent about the wonderful cures
+that are made here every year.
+
+There are a variety of mineral springs in different parts of the
+mountain. At the source some have the appearance of boiling, from the
+quantity of carbonic acid gas given off; but it is only in appearance,
+for the water is very cold.
+
+The springs which yield iron and carbonic acid are much used for
+drinking. There are also some primitive arrangements for bathing near
+by. A square hole is cut in the ground; this is boarded round, and a
+simple wooden shed, like a gigantic dish-cover, is put over it. Here
+again my guide said that miraculous cures are wrought annually. It is a
+wonder that anybody is left with an ache or a pain in a country which
+has such wonderful waters. I think my guide thought I was a doctor, who
+was searching for a new health-resort, and he was quite ready to do his
+share of the puffing.
+
+On Mount Buedos itself, in other parts than the cave, there occurs a good
+deal of sulphur; specimens are often found distributed which are very
+rich indeed. The place certainly deserves a thorough exploration, with a
+view to utilising the sulphur deposits; but it is so overgrown with
+vegetation that the search would involve considerable trouble and
+expense.
+
+There is a fine view from Mount Buedos towards Moldavia. I was fortunate
+in having good lights and shades, and therefore enjoyed the prospect
+most thoroughly. I should like to have remained longer on the summit,
+but not being prepared for camping out it was not possible; so very
+reluctantly we set about returning.
+
+My guide led me back to Bueksad by another route, a rough road, with
+deep ruts and big stones that must make driving in any vehicle, except
+for the honour and glory of it, a very doubtful blessing. But bad roads
+never do seem to matter in Hungary. Everybody drives everywhere; they
+would drive over a glacier if they had one. Occasionally we came upon
+some charming bits of forest scenery. The trees were grand, especially
+the beech; they were of greater girth than any I had yet seen in
+Transylvania. I noticed many mineral springs by the roadside; one could
+distinguish them by the deposit of oxide of iron on the stones near by.
+
+When I got back to Bueksad, I found the bailiff waiting to tell me that
+Count M---- and Baron A---- desired their compliments, and would be
+pleased to see me at Tusnad, if I would go over there. I had no
+introduction to these noblemen, and mention the invitation as an
+instance of Hungarian hospitality. They had simply heard that an
+Englishman was travelling about the country.
+
+I rode over to Tusnad the following day, and found it, as I had been led
+to expect, a very picturesque little place, a number of Swiss cottages
+dropped down in the clearing of the forest, with a good "restauration,"
+built by Count M---- himself. When I was there the season was over; but
+I am told that it is full of fashionables in June and July, and that the
+waters have an increasing reputation. My attention was drawn to the
+singular fact of two springs bubbling up within six feet of each other,
+which are proved by chemical analysis to be distinctly different in
+composition. I fancy Count M---- was much amused at the fact of an
+English gentleman travelling about alone on horseback, without any
+servants or other impedimenta. I remember a friend of mine telling me
+that once in Italy, when he declined to hire a carriage from a peasant
+at a perfectly exorbitant price, and said he preferred walking, the
+fellow called after him, saying, "We all know you English are mad enough
+for anything!"
+
+I don't know whether the Hungarian Count drew the same conclusion in my
+case, but I could see he was very much amused; I don't think any other
+people understand the Englishman's love of adventure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXII.
+
+     The baths of Tusnad--The state of affairs before 1848--Inequality
+     of taxation--Reform--The existing land laws--Communal
+     property--Complete registration of titles to estates--Question of
+     entail.
+
+
+I mixed exclusively in Hungarian society during my stay at the baths of
+Tusnad. With Baron ---- and Herr von ---- I talked politics by the hour.
+The Hungarians have the natural gift of eloquence. They pour forth their
+words like the waters of a mill-race, no matter in what language. My
+principal companion at Tusnad spoke French. The true Magyar will always
+employ that language in preference to German when speaking with a
+foreigner; but as often as not the Hungarians of good society speak
+English perfectly well. The younger generation, almost without
+exception, understand our language, and are extremely well read in
+English literature.
+
+I had so recently left Saxonland, where public opinion is opposed to
+everything that has the faintest shade of Magyarism, that I felt in the
+state of Victor Hugo's hero, of whom he said, "Son orientation etait
+changee, ce qui avait ete le couchant etait le levant. Il s'etait
+retourne." The transition was certainly curious, but I confess to
+getting rather tired of the mutual recriminations of political parties;
+respecting each other's good qualities, they are simply colour-blind.
+
+After the Saxons had been allowed to drop out of the conversation, I led
+my Magyar friend to talk of the state of things before 1848, and to
+enlighten me as to the existing condition of laws of property. My
+Hungarian--who, by the way, is a man well qualified to speak about legal
+matters--showered down upon me a perfect avalanche of facts. Leaving out
+a few patriotic flashes, the substance of what he told me was much as
+follows. I had especially asked about the recent legislation on the land
+question.
+
+"In the old time, before '48, the State, the Church, and the Nobles were
+the _sole_ landowners. The holding of land was strictly prohibited to
+all who were not noble; but to the peasants were allotted certain
+tracts, called for distinction 'session-lands.' For this privilege the
+peasant had to give up a tenth part of the produce to the lord, and
+besides he had to work for him two, and in some cases even _three_, days
+in the week. The _robot_, or forced labour, varied in different
+localities. The lord was judge over his tenants, and even his bailiff
+had the right of administering twenty-five lashes to insubordinate
+peasants. The _time_ of the forced labour was at the option of the lord,
+who might oblige his tenant to give his term of labour consecutively
+during seed-sowing or harvest, at the very time that the peasant's own
+land required his attendance. It may easily be imagined that this was a
+fruitful cause of dispute between the lord and his serfs.
+
+"But the most glaring act of injustice under the old system was that
+_all the taxes_ were paid by the session-holding peasantry, while the
+nobles were privileged and tax-free. They absolutely contributed nothing
+to the revenue of the country in the way of direct taxes!
+
+"This peculiarity of the Constitution made it the interest of the Crown
+to _preserve_ the area of the tax-paying peasant-land against the
+encroachments of the tax-free landlord. It often happened that on the
+death or removal of a peasant-holder the lord would choose to absorb the
+session-land into the _allodium_, which, being tax-free, resulted in a
+loss to the imperial revenue. To prevent this absorption of
+session-lands by the landlord, and also to accommodate the burdens of
+the peasantry, which had become almost intolerable in the last century,
+owing to the tyranny of the feudal superiors--to prevent this, I repeat,
+a general memorial survey with a view to readjustment took place in 1767
+by command of Maria Theresa.
+
+"This very important settlement, which came to be known as the
+'URBARIAL CONSCRIPTION,' laid down and defined the rights and
+services of the peasants, and the amount of land to be held by them. The
+nobles henceforth were obliged to find new tenants of the peasant class
+in the event of the 'session-lands' becoming vacant. Likewise their
+unjust impositions on the serfs were restricted, and the _rights_ of the
+latter, in respect to wood-cutting and pasturage on the lord's lands,
+were established by law.
+
+"This was all very well as far as it went," said my friend; "but the
+inequality of taxation and the forced labour were crying evils not to be
+endured in the nineteenth century. Our people who travelled in England
+and elsewhere came back imbued with new ideas. We in Transylvania assume
+the credit of taking the lead in liberal politics. Baron Wesselenyi was
+one of the first to advise a radical reform, and others--Count Bethlen,
+Baron Kemeny, and Count Teleki--were all agreed as to the necessity of
+bringing about the manumission of the serfs. It is an old story now. I
+am speaking of the third and fourth decades of the century, and
+political excitement was at white-heat. The extreme views of Wesselenyi
+raised a host of opponents among his own class, who regarded the
+prospect of reform as nothing short of class suicide. Everything else
+might go to the devil as long as they retained their privileges; the
+devil, however, is apt to make a clean sweep of the board when he has
+got the game in his own hands, but these noble wiseacres could not see
+that. In other parts of the country good men and true were working up
+the leaven of reform. The great patriot Szechenyi, as long ago as 1830,
+when he published his work on 'Credit,' had shown his countrymen their
+shortcomings. He had proved to them that their laws and their
+institutions were not marching with the spirit of the age; that, in
+short, the 'rights of humanity' called for justice. What this truly
+great man did for the material improvement of his country could hardly
+be told between sunrise and sundown. You practical English were our
+teachers and our helpers in those days, when bridges had to be built,
+roads to be made, and steam navigation set up in our rivers. English
+horses were brought over to improve the breed in Hungary, and English
+agricultural machinery still turns out treasure-trove from our fields.
+But beyond all this, what we saw and admired in England's history was
+her constitutional struggles for liberty; the efforts made by freedom
+within the pale of the law; her capacity, in short, for self-reform. You
+see how it is, my dear sir, that everything English is so popular with
+us in Hungary."
+
+I bowed my acknowledgments, and begged my friend to proceed with his
+narrative of events.
+
+"Well, to go back to our own history," he continued, in a tone which had
+in it a shade of melancholy, "you see from 1823 to the eve of 1848 the
+Diet had been tinkering at reform in a half-hearted sort of way, but the
+Paris revolution let loose the whirlwind, and events were precipitated.
+I need not tell you there was a standing quarrel between us and the
+reactionary rulers in Vienna. It was the deceitful policy of Austria to
+bring about a temporary show of agreement between us. The Archduke
+Stephen was appointed Viceroy, assisted by a council composed entirely
+of Hungarians. Now mark this turning-point in our history. The first Act
+of this Diet, presided over by Count Batthyanyi, was to abolish at one
+sweep the class privileges of the nobility. Roundly speaking, eight
+millions of serfs received their freedom by that Act! Nor was this all,
+the important part remains to be told--and I do not think foreigners
+always realise it--the Act further enforced that the session-lands held
+by the peasants became henceforth _their freehold property_. Half, or
+nearly half, the kingdom thus, by the voluntary concession of the
+nobles, became converted from a feudal tenure, burdened with duties,
+into an absolute freehold.
+
+"Like every sudden change, the result was not unmixed good. The Wallacks
+especially were not prepared for their emancipation; they thought
+equality before the law meant equality of goods."
+
+I now inquired how the working of the land laws was carried out, and to
+this my friend replied:--
+
+"As a lawyer I can give you an exact statement in a few words. The
+disturbed state of the country after the war of independence, which
+followed immediately upon the emancipation of the serfs, prevented for a
+while the effective realisation of the great reform of '48. However, in
+1853 several imperial decrees were promulgated, by means of which the
+changed system was worked out in detail. 'Urbarial courts' were
+instituted to inquire into the amount of compensation due to the lords
+of the manors who had lost the tithes and the 'forced labour' of the
+former serfs. To meet this compensation 'State urbarial bonds' were
+created and apportioned; they bear five per cent. interest, and are
+redeemable within eighty years, with two drawings annually. The fund for
+this compensation is raised by a special tax on every Hungarian subject;
+not only the freed peasant pays towards the fund, but the lord himself,
+and those who never had any feudal tenants.
+
+"The peasants had also to receive their compensation for the loss of
+pasturage and the right of cutting wood on the lord's demesne. In lieu
+of these privileges they received allotments of forest and pasturage as
+absolute property. The land thus acquired by the peasants is in fact
+_parish property_, or in other words, communal property. This is the
+only instance in which the parish appears as landowner, for all other
+peasant property, with the exception of the parish buildings, such as
+the school, is the property of the respective peasants. The parish
+authorities regulate the usage of the common pasturage and common
+forest. The sale or cutting down of the latter is subject to the
+permission of the county authorities."
+
+I now proceeded to question my friend about the laws respecting the
+transfer of land, and especially about the registration of titles of
+estate. To these inquiries he replied as follows:--
+
+"Land in Hungary is the absolute property of that person, or corporate
+body, who appears as owner in the registry. A limitation of claim to
+ownership does not exist with us; indeed it is contrary to the law. The
+_Avitische Patent_ of 1854 prescribed further that every one should be
+regarded as the rightful owner who actually held the property in
+1848--_i.e._, the _status quo_ of 1848 to be accepted as the basis. The
+_Urbarium_ of Maria Theresa was, in short, the stand-point in all these
+arrangements, whether it was the sessional lands of tenants formerly
+held in hereditary use, now freehold, or the _allodium_ of the noble.
+Immediately succeeding the _Avitische Patent_, the _registration of
+land_ was made law, in conformity with which all estates had been
+surveyed and entered on the registry as belonging to those owners who
+possessed the same in consequence of the above-named patent."
+
+"But how about disputed inheritance-lands held by mortgagees, and other
+contingencies always arising in regard to estates?" I asked.
+
+"I am sorry to say that dreadful cases of injustice were caused by this
+enactment. Whole families were reduced to beggary, and the greatest
+rascals obtained possession by this law of enormous estates, simply
+because they happened to hold the land in 1848, and the rightful owner
+did not advance his claim within the prescribed time. The evil could
+not be redressed, and in 1861, when the Hungarian Constitution was
+reinstated, the Diet of that year was obliged to accept and confirm the
+_Avitische Patent_, and the registration of land as directly following
+it. The grievances are past, but the benefit remains to us and our
+children. In Hungary at the present time the transfer of land is as
+simple as buying or selling the registered shares of a railway company.
+The registry forms the basis of every transaction connected with landed
+property, and, as we lawyers say, what is not entered there _non est in
+mundo_. Mortgages must be set down against the registered title.
+Contracts of leases are also entered, and in the case of farms being
+taken, caution-money, amounting generally to a quarter's rent, must be
+deposited with the authorities."
+
+"One more question. Are there no entailed estates amongst your
+aristocracy?"
+
+"Very few, indeed, even among the richest aristocracy. An Act of
+entailment can, it is true, be founded, but it is rarely permitted,
+being looked upon with disfavour for reasons of political economy. Such
+an Act would require in any case the special permission of the sovereign
+and of Government; and then the estate is placed under a special court.
+Without special permission from this court neither an alteration of the
+Act can take place, nor is sale or mortgage allowed. Hungarian law also
+interposes some restrictions in the case of a testator, who must leave
+by will at least half his property to his children. And with regard to
+women, the law with us is specially careful to preserve a woman's legal
+existence after marriage."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIII.
+
+     Fine scenery in Szeklerland--Csik Szent Marton--Absence of
+     inns--The Szekler's love of lawsuits--Csik Szereda--Hospitality
+     along the, road--Wallack atrocities in 1848--The Wallacks not
+     Panslavists.
+
+
+The charming scenery of the Szeklerland, and the kindly hospitality of
+the people, induced me to linger on. I had many a ride through those
+glorious primeval forests, where the girth of the grand old oak-trees
+and their widespreading branches are in themselves a sight to see: the
+beech, too, are very fine. Climbing farther, the deciduous woods give
+place to sombre pine-trees--the greybeards of the mountain. A great
+charm in this part of the country, at least from a picturesque point of
+view, is the affluence of water. Every rocky glen has its gurgling rill,
+every ravine its stream, which, at an hour's notice almost, may become a
+mountain torrent, should a storm break over the watershed. A plague of
+waters is no unfrequent occurrence, as the farmer in the valley knows to
+his cost. Fields are laid under water, and the turbulent streams often
+bring down great masses of earth and rock in a way that becomes
+"monotonous" for the man who has to clear his land or his roads of the
+_debris_. Mr Judd remarks that the volcanic rocks of Hungary have
+"suffered enormously from denuding causes." Every fresh storm reminds
+one that the process is in active operation.
+
+After finally leaving Tusnad, I rode on to Csik Szent Marton, where, as
+there was no inn, I had to present myself at the best house in the place
+and crave their hospitality. My request was taken as a matter of course,
+and they received me with the greatest kindness; in fact it was with
+great difficulty that I could get away the next day. My host entreated
+me to remain longer, and when he found that I was really bent on
+departing, he gave me several letters of introduction to friends of his
+along the road I was likely to travel. It was a very acceptable act of
+kindness, for there are hardly any inns in this part of the country. "If
+Transylvania is an odd corner of Europe," then is the Csik or
+Szeklerland a still more odd corner; by no possibility can it ever be
+the highroad to anywhere else. I am not surprised that my lawyer friend
+said that there were still some lawsuits pending in connection with the
+allotments of forest and pasturage in this part of Hungary, though
+everything was definitely settled elsewhere. The Szekler is as
+troublesome and turbulent in some respects as his own mountain streams;
+added to which he dearly loves a lawsuit: it is in the eyes of the
+peasant a patent of respectability, as keeping a gig formerly was in
+England.
+
+"Why do you go to law about such a trifle?" observed a friend of mine to
+his neighbour.
+
+"Well, you see I have never had a lawsuit, as all my neighbours have had
+about something or another; so, now there is the chance, I had better
+have one myself!"
+
+It is well for the lawyers that there is "a good deal of human nature"
+everywhere, especially in Hungary, otherwise they would have a bad time
+of it, where the legal expenses of "transfer" are a few florins, whether
+it be for an acre of vineyard or for half a _comitat_. I must observe,
+however, that in the sale of lands or houses, Government intervenes with
+a heavy tax on the transaction.
+
+Leaving my hospitable entertainers at Csik Szent Marton, I went on to
+Csik Szereda, where I was kindly taken in by the postmaster. In this
+case I was provided with a letter; but a stranger would naturally go to
+the postmaster or the clergyman to ask for a night's lodging. At first I
+felt diffident on this score; but I soon got over my shyness, for in
+Szeklerland they make a stranger so heartily welcome that he ceases to
+regard himself as an intruder. In out-of-the-way places one is looked
+upon as a sort of heaven-sent "special correspondent." There is a story
+told of Baron ----, one of the nearly extinct old-fashioned people, who
+regularly, an hour or so before the dinner-hour, rides along the nearest
+highroad to try and catch a guest. It has even been whispered that on
+one occasion a couple of intelligent-looking travellers, who declined to
+be "retained" for dinner, were severely beaten for their recalcitrant
+behaviour, by order of the hospitable Baron. The story is well founded,
+and I daresay took place before '48, when anything might have happened.
+
+I can bear witness that I have never myself been ill-treated for
+declining Hungarian hospitality, but when in Saxonland something very
+much the reverse occurred to me. I once entered a village at the end of
+a long day's ride, and stopping at the first house, asked for a night's
+lodging, whereupon I was told to ask at the next house. They said they
+could not take me in, excusing themselves on the score of an important
+domestic event being expected. I went on a little farther, though the
+"shades of night were falling fast," and repeated my request at the next
+house. I give you my word, there were _more_ domestic events--always
+the same excuse. I began to calculate that the population must be
+rapidly on the increase in that place. It was too much. I entered the
+last house of that straggling village with a stern resolve that not even
+new-born twins should bar my claim to hospitality!
+
+I found the postmaster at Csik Szereda a very intelligent man, with a
+fund of anecdotes and recollections, which generally centred in the
+troubles of '48. As I mentioned before, the Szeklers rose _en masse_
+against the Austrians. One of their officers, Colonel Alexander Gal,
+proved himself a very distinguished leader. Corps after corps were
+organised and sent to aid General Bem. "It was a terrible time; the men
+had to fight the enemy in the plain while our old men and women defended
+their homesteads against the jealous Saxons and the brutal Wallacks."
+
+It was not in one place, or from one person, but from every one with
+whom I spoke on the subject, that I heard frightful stories of Wallack
+atrocities. In one instance a noble family--in all, thirteen persons,
+including a new-born infant--were slaughtered under circumstances of
+horrible barbarity within the walls of their castle. The name I think
+was Bardi; it is matter of history.
+
+Amongst other horrors, the Wallacks on several occasions buried their
+victims alive, except the head, which they left above ground; they
+would then hurl stones at the unfortunate creatures, or cut off the
+heads with a scythe. It was not a war of classes but of race, for the
+poor peasants amongst the Magyars and Szeklers fared just as badly at
+the hands of the infuriated Wallacks as the nobles.
+
+The belief is still held that the Vienna Government instigated the
+outbreak. Certainly arms had been put into the hands of these
+uncivilised hordes under the pretence of organising a sort of militia.
+Metternich knew the character of these irregulars, as he had known and
+proved the character of the Slovacks in Galicia in the terrible rising
+of the serfs in 1846. His complicity on that occasion has never been
+disproved.
+
+The winter of 1848-49 must have been a time of unexampled misery to the
+Magyars of Transylvania. The nobles generally dared not remain in their
+lonely chateaux; it was not a question of bravery, for how could the
+feeble members who remained home from the war guard the castle from the
+torches of a hundred frantic, yelling wretches, who, with arms in their
+hands, spared neither age nor sex? For the time they were mad--these
+Eastern people are subject to terrible epidemics of frenzy!
+
+The Szekler town of Maros Vasarhely, which was strong enough to keep the
+Wallacks at bay, was the sanctuary of the noble ladies and children of
+that part of Transylvania. It was so full of fugitives that the
+overcrowding was most distressing. A lady, the bearer of an historic
+name, told me herself that she and seven of her family passed the whole
+winter in one small room in Maros Yasarhely. Added to the discomfort and
+insalubrity of this crowding, they were almost penniless, having nothing
+but "Kossuth money." For the time the sources of their income were
+entirely arrested. In this instance one of the children died--succumbed
+to bad air and privation. Another patrician dame kept her family through
+the winter by selling the vegetables from her garden; this together with
+seventeen florins in silver was all they had to depend upon. Add to this
+the misery of not hearing for weeks, perhaps even for months, from their
+husbands or sons, who were with the armies of Goergey or Bem.
+
+The Magyars were not always safe in the towns, for at Nagy Enyed, a
+rather considerable place, the Wallacks succeeded in setting fire to it,
+and butchered all the inhabitants who were not fortunate enough to
+escape their fury. In the neighbourhood of Reps the castles of the
+nobility suffered very severely. Grim incidents were told me, things
+that were too horrible not to be true--infants spiked and women
+tortured. One cannot dwell upon the details! What struck me as very
+remarkable was the fact that Magyars and Wallacks are now dwelling
+together again in peace side by side. It reminds one of the people who
+plant their vines again on Vesuvius directly an eruption is over. In the
+last century, in 1784, there was a dreadful outbreak of the Wallacks.
+Individually they are really not bad fellows--so it seemed to me--and
+one hears of fewer murders among them than perhaps in Ireland. The
+danger exists of leaders arising who may stir up the nationality
+fever--the idea of the great _Roumain_ nation that looms big in their
+imagination!
+
+They love neither Croatians, Slavonians, nor Austrians, and they are no
+longer a safe card to play off against the Magyars; but indeed I would
+fain believe that better and wiser counsels now prevail. Austria is not
+the Austria of '48, any more than the England of to-day is the same as
+England before the Reform Bill.
+
+The autumn evenings were getting long, and after supper, as I sat
+smoking my pipe by the stove in the simple but scrupulously neat
+apartment of my host, he, in his turn, asked me about England. It is
+very touching the warmth with which these people in the far-off "land
+beyond the forest" speak of us. "We never can forget how kindly England
+received our patriots." This, or words like it, were said to me many
+times, and always the name of Palmerston came to the fore. "He cordially
+hated the Austrians." What better ground of sympathy?
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIV.
+
+     Ride to Szent Domokos--Difficulty about quarters--Interesting
+     host--Jewish question in Hungary--Taxation--Financial matters.
+
+
+From Szereda I went to Szent Domokos. It was a long ride, and I was
+again nearly benighted. However, I reached my destination this time just
+as the last streak of daylight had departed.
+
+I had some difficulty in making the people I met understand that I
+wanted the postmaster's house. No one, it appeared, could speak a word
+of German. At length I found the place; but a new difficulty arose. The
+postmaster, it seemed, was away, as far as I could make out from his
+wife. She seemed greatly puzzled, not to say alarmed, at seeing an armed
+horseman ride up, who demanded hospitality; and I daresay she was the
+more puzzled at not being able "to place me," as the Yankees say, for
+she asked me if I was a Saxon, an Austrian, or a Turk? My appearance, I
+suppose, was rather uncouth and alarming. She was young and very
+pretty--an Armenian, I learned afterwards. These women are apt to have
+Oriental notions about men, and she was evidently afraid to ask me in.
+
+There was I, with my tired horse, completely up a tree. I thought to
+myself, I cannot stay in the street, so pushing my way through a sort of
+courtyard, I found out what appeared to be the stable. This I took
+possession of, all the time making the most polite bows and gestures,
+for we hardly understood a word of each other's language. There was no
+help for it, I must make myself at home. I put the horse up, I relieved
+him of his saddle and saddle-bags, and seeing a bucket and a well not
+far off, I fetched some water. By this time the young woman had called
+in some neighbours, and I could see them watching me from behind the
+half-closed doors and windows. I must observe I had lighted my own
+lantern that I always carried with me, so that my proceedings were made
+quite visible to the cautious spectators. They never attempted to
+interfere with me, and I went on doing my work quietly and
+unostentatiously. The position was ludicrous in the highest degree!
+
+While I was yet foraging for my horse's supper, by good-luck in came the
+postmaster. He spoke German, and I was soon able to make all square. He
+was as civil as possible, offering me at once the hospitality of his
+roof, which in fact I had already assumed. I saw he was very anxious to
+remove the unpleasant impression of his wife's mistake. He bade me
+welcome many times over, he thanked me for the honour I did him in
+offering to sleep under his humble roof, and further persisted in
+calling me "Herr Lord." It was in vain that I corrected him on this
+point. "I was an Englishman, therefore I must be a 'Herr Lord,' and
+there was an end of it."
+
+When Mr Boner was travelling in Szeklerland he was also, _nolens
+volens_, raised to the peerage, so I suppose it is a settled conviction
+of the people that we are all lords in Great Britain.
+
+We had for supper a capital _filet d'ours_ from a bear that had been
+shot only two days before. I enjoyed my supper immensely; the wine was
+as good as the food. My pretty hostess laughed a good deal over the
+false alarm my appearance had created. Her husband interpreted between
+us, but I promised to learn Hungarian before I paid them another visit.
+My host proved himself to be a very intelligent man; I had an
+exceedingly interesting conversation with him after supper. He
+complained bitterly of the heavy pressure of taxation, saying that
+Government ought to manage things more economically, for that every year
+now there was a deficit.
+
+"Yet your country is rich in natural resources, as rich almost as
+France, barring her advantages of seaboard."
+
+"Yes, we have wealth under the soil," he replied, "and what we want is
+capital to develop our resources. Herein Austria has stood in our way;
+you know the old policy of Austria, as far back as Maria Theresa's time,
+which was to make Hungary Catholic, to make her poor, and to turn her
+people into Germans. This last they will never do; but they have
+succeeded in their second project only too well. They have made us poor
+enough, they have discouraged manufactures and industries of every kind.
+We wish for free trade, but Austria is opposed to it. The manufactures
+of Bohemia must be nursed, and accordingly we are made to suffer. We
+want to be brought into contact with our customers in Western Europe; we
+want, in fact, to get our trade out of the hands of the Jews."
+
+"I wish to ask you your candid opinion about the Jews. Some people say
+they are the curse of the country; others again, that Hungarian commerce
+would be nowhere without them."
+
+"I will tell you what happens," replied my friend, evading a direct
+answer to my latter observation. "A wretched Jew comes into this
+village, or some other place--it does not matter, it is always the same
+story. He comes probably from Galicia as poor as a rat, he settles
+himself in the village, and sells _slivovitz_ on credit to the foolish
+peasant, who, besotted with drink and debt, gets into his meshes; in the
+end, the Jew having sucked the blood of his victims, possesses himself
+of their little property, finds himself the object of universal hatred,
+and then he moves on. He makes a fresh start in some other place,
+beginning on a higher rung of the ladder; and you will find him sitting
+in the highest seats before he has done."
+
+"If your people were less of spendthrifts and managed their affairs
+themselves, then the Jews would cease to find a harvest amongst you."
+
+"Yes, that is true," he answered; "but we are not practical; we do not
+organise well. The Jew always manages to be the middle-man between
+ourselves and the consumers."
+
+"But without the Jew you would perhaps not even get so near to the
+consumer," I observed quietly.
+
+My host puffed out a volume of smoke, and after a pause observed, before
+he placed his pipe again between his lips, "In this part of the country,
+in the Szeklerland, the better class of merchants are nearly all
+Armenians."
+
+Apropos of the tax question, I have looked into the matter since, and I
+am rather surprised to find the proportion not so heavy as I thought; on
+the whole population it is about L1 a-head--certainly less than is borne
+by many other states. In England, I believe, we are taxed at over L2
+a-head. Then, again, it is true that since 1870 there has been an annual
+deficit, and the equilibrium of income and expenditure can hardly be
+counted upon just yet; still things are moving in the right direction.
+The Hungarians have been reproached for managing their finances badly
+since the compromise with Austria in 1867, when the revenue came
+exclusively under their own control. But in answer they say, that having
+so lately entered the community of states, they found themselves in the
+position of a minor who comes into house and lands that have need of
+every sort of radical repair and improvement. Hungary has had to spend
+heavily upon road-making, bridges, railroads, sanatory and other
+economic improvements, and very heavily for rectification of the course
+of the Danube; in fact they have ambitiously set themselves too much to
+do in the time. They have rendered Buda-Pest, with its magnificent river
+embankments, one of the finest capitals in Europe. The Magyar does
+everything with a degree of splendour that savours of the Oriental.
+They know not the meaning of the homely adage which tells a man to "cut
+his coat according to his cloth."
+
+Added to the pressure of accumulated expenses, Hungary has had a
+succession of bad harvests--she has been passing through the seven lean
+years. The last season has shown, however, a decided improvement, so we
+may hope the bad corner is turned. I am informed that this year the
+schedule for unpaid--viz., arrears of--taxes is completely wiped off.
+Then, again, the income-tax in the space of five years ending 1874
+increased from 5,684,000 florins to 27,650,000 florins!
+
+The financial account of the current year is reassuring. At the sitting
+of the Hungarian Diet on the 30th October,[20] the minister, in
+presenting the estimates for 1878, said that in 1876 and 1877 the
+expenditure had been reduced by L1,250,000. It was not possible to
+continue at the same rate, and the net reduction next year would be
+L360,000. It is true the deficit of 1877 is L1,600,000, a sufficiently
+grave sum; but to judge the position fairly it is necessary to look at
+the budgets of former years. In 1874, "in consequence of rather too
+hasty investment of money in railways and other public works," the
+deficit was L6,000,700; in 1876 it had fallen to L3,100,000. The present
+year, therefore, shows a steady reduction of those ugly figures at the
+wrong side of the national account.
+
+[Footnote 20: 'Hungarian Finances,' the Times, October 31, 1877.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXV.
+
+     Copper mine of Balanbanya--Miners in the wine-shop--Ride to St
+     Miklos--Visit to an Armenian family--Capture of a robber--Cold ride
+     to the baths of Borsek.
+
+
+Having expressed a wish to see the copper mine at Balanbanya, which is
+some five miles from Szent Domokos, my host proposed to drive me over
+the next morning. When the morning came the weather looked most
+unpromising; there was a steady downpour, without any perceptible break
+in the clouds in any quarter. I had made up my mind to go, and as after
+the noonday meal it cleared slightly, we started. The mud was nearly up
+to the axletree of our cart. After driving some time we reached a wild
+and rather picturesque valley, in which rises the Alt, or, as it is
+called when it reaches Roumania, the Aluta. The course of this stream is
+singularly tortuous, winding about through rocks and defiles, often
+changing its direction, and finally making a way for itself through the
+Carpathian range.
+
+As we approached the copper mine it had all the appearance of a volcano,
+for a heavy cloud of smoke hung over the spot like a canopy. This mine
+has been worked for many years; formerly it paid well, but now it is in
+the hands of a company, who are working at a loss, if I could believe
+what I was told.
+
+I have repeatedly noticed in Hungary that people commit themselves to
+works of this kind without the technical knowledge necessary to carry
+them on successfully. The necessary capital, too, is generally wanting
+to bring these mining operations to a successful issue; added to this
+the managers are often not conspicuous for their honesty.
+
+I went over these works, and gave particular attention to the refinery.
+Some of the processes for collecting the metal are ingeniously simple
+and effective. The copper-ore is remarkably pure, being, it is said,
+free from arsenic and antimony. The concern ought to pay, for the copper
+is so well esteemed that it obtains the best price in the market.
+
+After inspecting the place, we went into the inn to have some supper,
+and while there, several miners came in. I had heard that they were
+renowned for their mining songs down in these parts, so I made friends
+with the men and begged them to sing. After a little persuasion and a
+refilling of glasses they began.
+
+The music of their songs was very mournful, and the words equally so,
+descriptive of the dangers the poor miner had to encounter in searching
+for ore in the gloomy depths of the earth. I believe my companion, the
+postmaster, was very puzzled to understand what could interest me in
+these rough miners. The scene was exceedingly picturesque; for some six
+or eight of these stalwart fellows, with skin and clothes reddened by
+the earth, sat by a long table, each with his flask of wine before him,
+while the flicker of an oil-lamp threw its yellow light over the group.
+One of the men spoke German, and with him I talked. He had elicited from
+me the fact of my being an Englishman, whereupon he asked me a variety
+of questions about our mines and our forests. Finally he inquired
+whether our bears were as large as theirs. When I told him we had none
+he could not credit it, saying, "But you must have bears on the
+frontier?" When I explained that we lived upon an island he seemed much
+surprised. I saw that his natural politeness prevented his saying what
+was in his mind, but it was evident he thought that if the English lived
+in an island they could not be such a great people after all.
+
+Not wishing to put my host to expense, more especially as the expedition
+was undertaken solely for my benefit and at my suggestion, I paid the
+score at the Balanbanya Inn without saying anything. I was very vexed to
+find, however, that by doing so I had offended my companion very much.
+He reminded me that I was a stranger in Szeklerland and his guest, and
+it was contrary to all his ideas of hospitality that I should be the
+paymaster. Instead of starting homewards, as we were ready to do, he
+ordered more wine and some sardines, being the greatest delicacy the
+house afforded. I was obliged to make a show of partaking of something
+more, though I had amply supped. For these extras of course my friend
+paid, but he was only half appeased, and was never quite the same again.
+
+The following morning I left the house of my too-hospitable
+entertainers. My destination now was St Miklos. My road thither lay
+through a pine-forest, as lonely a tract as could well be imagined, for
+there were no signs whatever of human habitations. Certainly the weird
+solitude of a pine-wood is more impressive than any other kind of forest
+scenery. Under the impervious shade and the long grey vistas, one moves
+forward with something of a superstitious feeling, as though one were
+intruding into the sanctuary of unseen spirits. I cannot say that I was
+a prey to such idle fancies, for the spirits I was likely to meet would
+be very tangible enemies. This district had a bad reputation, owing to
+several robberies having been committed in the neighbourhood; in fact
+the whole country was just then under martial law. I was well armed, and
+being alone I kept my weather-eye open; but I saw not even the ghost of
+a brigand, and reached St Miklos in safety.
+
+It is usual when incendiary fires or robberies have been rife in any
+district to place that part of the country under the _Statorium_, so
+that if any person or persons are caught in _flagrante delicto_, they
+are summarily tried and hung before a week is over. When I was in
+Transylvania in the autumn of '75, the whole of the north-eastern corner
+was under the _Statorium_.
+
+At St Miklos I put up at the house of an Armenian, who received me with
+a most frank and kindly welcome, conducting me to the guest-chamber
+himself after giving orders to the servants to attend to my horse. St
+Miklos is charmingly situated in the valley of Gyergyo, at an elevation
+of nearly 3000 feet above the sea-level. Here one is right in amongst
+the mountains, the higher summits rising grandly around. The scenery is
+very fine. There are interminable forests on every side, broken by
+ravines and valleys, with strips of green pasture-land. In former times
+these primeval woods were tenanted by the wild aurochs, but now one sees
+only the long-horned white cattle and the wiry little horses belonging
+to the villages that nestle about in unexpected places. St Miklos is
+almost entirely inhabited by Armenians. There is a market here, and it
+is considered the central place of the district. The year before my
+visit the town was nearly destroyed by fire. Upwards of three hundred
+houses were burned down in less than three hours. The loss of property
+was considerable, including stores of hay and _kukoricz_ (Indian corn).
+Since this conflagration, which caused such widespread distress in the
+place, they have established a volunteer fire brigade. This ought to
+exist in every village. Prompt action would often arrest the serious
+proportions of a fire. It would be a good thing if some substitute could
+be found for the wooden tiles used for roofing; in course of time they
+become like tinder, and a spark will fire the roof. The houses in
+Hungary are not, as a rule, constructed of wood, as in Upper Austria and
+Styria, nor are they nearly so picturesque as in that part of the world.
+In some Hungarian villages the cottages are painted partly blue and
+partly yellow, which has a very odd effect; and throughout the country
+they are built with the gable-end to the road.
+
+When I was at St Miklos there was great excitement over the recent
+capture of a famous robber chief, whose band had kept the country-side
+in a state of alarm for some months past. I was asked if I would like to
+go and see him, and of course I was glad to get a sight at last of one
+of the robbers of whom I had heard so much in my travels. I was never
+more surprised than, on arriving in front of a very shaky wooden
+building, to be told that this was the prison. A few resolute fellows
+might have easily broken in and effected the rescue of their chief.
+
+There was no romance about the appearance of the miserable wretch that
+we found within, stretched on a rough bed with wrists and feet heavily
+ironed. These manacles were hardly needed, for he was severely wounded,
+and seemed incapable of rising from his pallet. I never saw so repulsive
+a countenance; and the flatness of the head was quite remarkable. His
+eyes were very prominent, and had the restless look of a hunted animal,
+which was painful in the extreme; but there was absolutely no redeeming
+expression of human feeling in the dark coarse face. Well, there was
+something human about him though. I was told he had been photographed
+that morning, and that he had expressed considerable satisfaction at the
+idea of his portrait being preserved. He was under sentence of death!
+There were various stories told of his capture, but I think the
+following is the true account. It appears that he and his gang made
+their appearance from time to time in the forest round the well-known
+watering-place of Borsek. When visitors were on their way to the baths,
+they were frequently stopped by the robbers in a mountain pass, in the
+immediate neighbourhood of a dense forest that stretches far away for
+miles and miles over the frontier. It was the custom of the robbers to
+demand all the money, and they would relieve the travellers of their fur
+cloaks and overcoats, and other useful articles; but if they did not
+offer any resistance, they were permitted to go on uninjured, to take
+their cure at the baths. I should doubt, however, that anybody would be
+welcome there without a well-filled purse; at least I judge so from what
+I heard of the eminently commercial character of the place.
+
+The robbers had the game in their own hands for a long while, but they
+made a mistake one fine day. They stopped a handsome equipage, which
+seemed to promise a good haul; but lo, behold, it was the
+_Obergespannirz_, the lord-lieutenant of the county! He had four good
+horses, and so saved himself by flight. But the authorities now really
+bestirred themselves, and the soldiers were called out to exterminate
+this troublesome brood. They were accompanied by a renowned bear-slayer
+who knew the forest well. It was with great difficulty that they
+succeeded at last in tracking the robbers, or rather robber, for it was
+only the chief who was trapped after all. It appears that the soldiers
+and their guide came upon a small hut surrounded by almost impenetrable
+thickets. The hunter crept on in advance of the rest, and looking into
+the interior through the chinks of timbers, he saw a man drying his
+clothes by a small fire. He quietly said, "Good-day." The robber started
+up, and seizing his gun, flung open the door and fired his fowling-piece
+at once at his visitor. Fortunately the powder proved to be damp, or he
+must have received the full charge. The bear-slayer was now in close
+quarters, and fired off his revolver within a short distance of the
+other's head. The shot took effect, and he fell in a heap stunned and
+senseless. At first they thought he was dead, and it is marvellous that
+the well-aimed discharge did not kill him. His skull must have been
+uncommonly thick. This fellow was known to be the leader. The rest of
+the gang had probably escaped into Moldavia, from whence they came.
+
+My friends at St Miklos were kind enough to promise to get up a
+bear-hunt for me, and it was arranged that I should go and see the
+baths of Borsek, and return on Saturday night, so as to be ready for the
+bear-hunt on Sunday. The "better observance of the Sabbath" is always
+associated with bear-hunting in these parts.
+
+I left St Miklos in a snowstorm, though it was only the 16th of
+September--very early for such signs of winter. I was not prepared for
+wintry weather. It frustrated my plans and expectations a good deal. I
+was disappointed, too, in the climate, for I had always heard that the
+late autumn is about the finest time for Transylvania.
+
+I have invariably remarked that whenever I go to a new country it is the
+signal for "abnormal meteorological disturbances," as they call bad
+weather in the newspapers. My own notion is that weather is a very mixed
+affair everywhere.
+
+For three mortal hours I rode on through a blinding snowstorm. At length
+I espied the ruin of an unfinished cottage by the wayside, and here I
+bethought me I would take shelter and see after my dinner; for whatever
+happens, I can be hungry directly afterwards--I think an earthquake
+would give me an appetite.
+
+My unfurnished lodgings were in as wild a spot as imagination could
+picture. No wonder that the builder had abandoned the construction of
+this solitary dwelling; why it had ever been commenced passes my
+comprehension. It was just at the entrance of a mountain valley,
+treeless, stony, and rugged, through which there were at intervals the
+semblance of a track--a desolate, God-forgotten-looking place. On
+consulting the map I found that the "road" led to Moldavia. I resolved
+it should not lead me there. Here then, in this dreary spot, with its
+gable-end to the road, and turning away from the prospect--and no
+wonder--stood the carcass of a cottage. My horse and I scrambled over
+the breach in the wall, where a garden never had smiled, and got into
+the roofless house. It was with considerable difficulty that I found
+sticks enough for my kitchen fire. I had to try back on the route I had
+passed, for I remembered not far in the rear a group of firs standing
+sentinels in the pass. I always took care to have an end of rope in my
+pocket; with this I tied up my fagot, shouldered it, and returned to the
+house of entertainment. The result of my trouble was a blazing fire,
+whereat I cooked an excellent robber-steak. I made myself some tea, and
+afterwards enjoyed--yes, actually enjoyed--my pipe. There is a pleasure
+in battling with circumstances, even in such a small affair as getting
+one's dinner under difficulties.
+
+After washing-up (by good-luck there was a stream near by), I packed up
+my belongings, and giving a last look around to see that I had left
+nothing, I departed without as much as a _pourboire_ for "service," one
+of the advantages of self-help.
+
+The prospect for the rest of my ride was not lively, a good ten miles
+yet to be done on a bad road. It had ceased to snow, but the clouds kept
+driving down into the valley as if the very heavens themselves were in a
+state of mobilisation. It is curious to notice sometimes in the higher
+Carpathians how the clouds march continuously through the winding
+valleys; always moving and driving on, these compact masses of vapour
+are impelled by the currents of air in the defiles which seam the
+mountains.
+
+My way was now through an interminable pine-forest, the road stretching
+in a perfectly straight line and at a perceptible rise. Indeed it was
+uphill work altogether. The ceaseless dripping of the rain made the
+whole scene as cheerless as it well could be. The snow had turned to
+cold dull rain, which was far more depressing. I wished the mineral
+springs at Borsek had never been discovered. It was too late to turn
+back to St Miklos, where I devoutly wished myself, so I had nothing to
+do but plod on with my waterproof tight round me. It was impossible to
+go fast, for in places the mud was very deep and the road was beset
+with big stones.
+
+It was dark when I reached Borsek, and again I wished I had never come.
+The inn was very uncomfortable; there was no fireplace in any of the
+rooms. The baths are only used in the height of summer, and if it turns
+cold, as it does sometimes at this elevation, people I suppose must
+freeze till it gets warm again. I had come a fortnight too late; the
+world of fashion departs from Borsek at the end of August. Ten or twelve
+springs rise within a short area, and vary curiously in quality and
+temperature. The source which is principally used for exportation is
+remarkable for the quantity of carbonic acid it contains. About 12,000
+bottles are filled every day; some 1500 on an average break soon after
+corking, owing partly to the bad quality of the bottles. There is a
+glass manufactory in the place, and though they have good material they
+turn out the work badly.
+
+The export trade in the mineral waters is very large. They are much
+valued for long sea voyages, as the water keeps for years without losing
+its gaseous qualities.[21]
+
+The baths of Borsek belong to two different parishes, and they are by no
+means agreed as to the management. Some years ago the principal spring
+was struck by lightning and entirely lost for a time, but after much
+digging it was found again. The situation of Borsek is extremely
+romantic, and in the height of summer it must be very delightful; but in
+summer only--let no one follow my example and go there out of season. Of
+course the place is surrounded by magnificent forests, but it is a
+crying shame to see how they have been treated. In every direction there
+is evidence of the ravages of fire. You may see in a morning's walk the
+blackened stems of thousands of trees, the results of Wallack
+incendiarism. If the Wallacks go on destroying the forests in this way,
+they will end in injuring the value of the place as a health resort; for
+the efficacy of the perfumed air of the pine-woods is well known,
+especially for all nervous diseases.
+
+The houses are badly built at Borsek, and the arrangements for comfort
+are very incomplete. Most of the habitations appear to have been run up
+with green wood; the result may be pleasant and airy in summer, when the
+balmy breeze comes in from cracks in the doors and window-frames, but
+except in great heat, a perforated house is a mistake. People have to
+bring their own servants and other effects. I should say a portable
+stove would not be a bad item amongst the luggage.
+
+The Borsek waters are very much drunk throughout Hungary, especially
+mixed with wine. Everywhere I noticed that eight people out of ten would
+take water with their wine at meals. In the district round there is
+splendid pasturage for cattle. Large numbers of cattle fed in these
+parts are now sent to Buda-Pest and Vienna. The serious drawback to
+Borsek is its great distance from a railway. The nearest station is
+Maros Vasarhely, which is nearly ninety miles away. The drive between
+the two places is very fine--that is, the scenery is fine, but the road
+itself is execrable. A telegraph wire connects Borsek with the outside
+world, but the post only comes twice a-week.
+
+[Footnote 21: The waters of Borsek are much taken as an "after-cure."]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVI.
+
+     Moldavian frontier--Toelgyes--Excitement about robbers--Attempt at
+     extortion--A ride over the mountains--Return to St Miklos.
+
+
+Instead of going back to St Miklos by the same route, I resolved to
+diverge a little if the weather permitted. I wanted to visit Toelgyes, a
+village on the frontier of Moldavia, which is said to be very pretty.
+The weather decidedly improved, so I rode off in that direction. The
+road, owing to the late rains, was in a dreadful state. All the mountain
+summits were covered with fresh snow; it was a lovely sight. The
+dazzling whiteness of these peaks rising above the zone of dark
+fir-trees was singularly striking and beautiful. The effect of sunshine
+was exhilarating in the highest degree, and the contrast with my recent
+experience gave it a keener relish.
+
+At Toelgyes there is a considerable trade with Moldavia in wood. Quite a
+fresh human interest was imparted to the scene by this industry. By the
+side of the stream small rafts were in course of construction, and the
+trunks of the trees were being placed in position to make the descent of
+the stream. The woodman's axe was heard in the forest, and many a
+picturesque hut or group of huts were to be seen by the roadside, where
+the woodmen and their families live, to be near their work. The labour
+of getting the timber along these tortuous mountain streams is very
+great. A ready market is found at Galatz, where a great deal of this
+wood is sent.
+
+I remained the night at Toelgyes. The whole place was in a state of
+excitement about brigands; every one had some fresh rumour to help swell
+the general panic. A company of soldiers were kept constantly patrolling
+the roads in the neighbourhood. I should say they were pretty safe not
+to encounter the robbers, who are always well informed under those
+circumstances.
+
+In studying my pocket-map, I found that there was clearly a short cut
+over the mountains to St Miklos. On inquiry I extracted the confirmation
+of the fact with difficulty, and I had still more difficulty in inducing
+anybody to go with me as a guide. At length I secured the services of a
+fellow who was willing to go for a tolerably substantial
+"consideration." I was afraid to work my way entirely by the map, for
+roads are apt to be vague in these parts. Ten chances to one whether
+you know a road when you see it; it might be a green sward, or the
+rubbly dry bed of a mountain torrent, or a cattle-track; it may lead
+somewhere or nowhere. Unassisted you may wander all manner of ways.
+
+I made my start very early in the morning, for I had a long way to go,
+and my guide was on foot; there was not much use in being mounted,
+considering the pace that the roughness of the road forced us to take.
+Before leaving Toelgyes I had a row with the innkeeper. He made a most
+exorbitant demand upon me, at least three times over what was properly
+due. I told him at once that I declined to pay the full amount he asked.
+I knew perfectly well what the charge ought to be, and I said I should
+pay that and no more. Hereupon he got very angry, and informed me that
+he should not saddle my horse or let me go till I had paid him in full.
+I immediately went into the stable and saddled the horse myself; I then
+put down on the window-seat the money which I considered was due to him,
+giving a fair and liberal margin, but I was not going to be "done"
+because I was a foreigner. I ordered my guide to proceed, and I myself
+quickly rode out of the place. The innkeeper worked himself up into a
+tremendous rage, and declared he would have me back, or at least he
+would have his cold meat and bread back that I had ordered for the
+journey. I gave my horse the rein, and left the fellow uttering his
+blessings both loud and deep.
+
+We had ten miles of as bad a road as any I had yet seen in my travels.
+The mud in some places was two feet deep. We followed the windings of a
+stream called the Putna Patak, and came presently to a wayside inn
+frequented by foresters. Here we made a short halt, got a bottle of
+decent wine and a crust of bread. Immediately on quitting this place we
+turned into a less frequented path, and began a stiffish ascent. It was
+a superb day, and I enjoyed it immensely, not having been much favoured
+by weather lately. Our route was through a thick forest, the trees, as
+usual in these, magnificent, with their gigantic girth, and
+widespreading branches. At times I got a glimpse of the snowy mountain
+summits standing out against the intensely blue sky.
+
+At mid-day I told the guide to look out for the next spring, for there
+we would dine. We did not find a spring for some time, at least not by
+the wayside, and I was reluctant to lose time by wandering about. At
+length when we had secured a water-tap--viz., a little trickling rill
+flowing between some stones and spongy moss--we found ourselves in a
+difficulty about the fire. There was plenty of wood, but it was all
+soaking wet and would not burn. Luckily a fir-tree was spied out, which
+provided us with a good quantity of turpentine, and with this we
+persuaded the fire to blaze up a bit. We cooked the dinner, had a smoke,
+a short rest, and then _en avant_--always through the forest.
+
+Later in the afternoon, emerging from the wood, we came upon a grassy
+plateau which commanded a glorious view of the Transylvanian side of the
+Carpathians. I was glad to see the familiar valley of Gyergyo away
+westward, with its numerous villages and green pasturage. The same
+physical peculiarity pervades the whole of Hungary. Whenever you get a
+vale of any extent, it is as flat as if it were a bit of the great
+plain. Everywhere you have the impression that formerly the waters of a
+lake must have covered the level verdure of the valley. As soon as I
+caught sight of St Miklos I dismissed my guide, for his services were no
+longer required, and I could get on quicker without him. I had still a
+long distance to go, for I was not far below the summit. I was extremely
+anxious to get into safe quarters before dark, so I made the best of the
+way, leading my horse down the steep bits, and mounting again for a
+short trot where it was possible.
+
+On arriving at the house of my Armenian friends at St Miklos, happily
+before sundown, I was greatly disappointed to find that there would be
+no bear-hunt the next day. Those detestable robbers had turned up again,
+and the people who were to have formed part of the sporting expedition
+were obliged to go robber-hunting, a sport not much to their taste I
+fancy.
+
+It appeared that the fellows had entered an out-of-the-way inn, or
+rather wine-shop, and boldly ordered the owner to procure for them a
+certain amount of gunpowder, which they required should be ready for
+them the next day, and failing to carry out their orders, they
+threatened to shoot him. He was obliged to promise, for there were five
+of them, and except women he was alone in the house. They drank a
+quantity of his wine, and asked for no reckoning, saying they would pay
+for it the next day along with the gunpowder.
+
+Directly they had left the premises, the innkeeper set off as fast as
+his legs could carry him to St Miklos to ask for help. The robbers
+seemed to be such bunglers that one would judge them to be new to the
+business; but the innkeeper's terror knew no bounds, and he declared
+they were awful-looking cut-throats. Two of the men were caught the
+next day. I saw them brought into the village heavily manacled; they
+were harmless-looking Wallacks, not very different in appearance from my
+guide over the mountain. Though armed with guns, they made no
+resistance; and when they were discovered they had called out lustily to
+the soldiers not to fire, for they would give themselves up. I expect
+they were let off with imprisonment, but I never heard the end of the
+story. I owed them a grudge for spoiling my bear-hunt, which I missed
+altogether, for I could not wait until the following Sunday.
+
+I left St Miklos with an introduction to some rich Armenians at
+Toplicza, where I intended making my next halt.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVII.
+
+     Toplicza--Armenian hospitality--A bear-hunt--A ride over to the
+     frontier of Bukovina--Destruction of timber--Maladministration of
+     State property--An unpleasant night on the mountain--Snowstorm.
+
+
+At Toplicza I was very hospitably received by the family to whom I took
+the letter of introduction from my friends at the last place.
+Unfortunately I could not converse with the elders of the family, for
+they spoke no German, and my Hungarian was limited. However, there was a
+charming young lady with whom I found no difficulty in getting on; she
+understood not only the language but the literature of Germany.
+
+A bear-hunt was soon proposed in my honour. The headman of the village
+was brought into our council, and he quickly sent round orders that
+everybody was to appear the following day--which conveniently happened
+to be _fete_ day--for a hunt. Those who had guns would be placed at
+different "stands," and those who had no guns were expected to act as
+beaters.
+
+The _Richter_, or headman, was a fine specimen of a Wallack; he was six
+feet three, broad chested, with flowing black hair--a handsome fellow of
+that type. I told him I should not like to fight him if he knew how to
+use his fists. He was pleased at the little compliment. The next day the
+Wallacks came pouring in from all the outlying parts of the village. It
+was really a very picturesque sight. The men wore thongs of leather
+round their feet in place of boots; and those who had no guns were armed
+with the usual long staff surmounted by the formidable axe-head.
+
+A great deal of time was wasted in preparations. The Wallacks are the
+most dilatory people in the whole world. It was nearly three o'clock
+before we got to the forests where we hoped to give Bruin a rendezvous.
+The guns that some of the party carried were "a caution"--more fit for a
+museum of armoury than for anything else. The Wallacks try to remedy the
+inefficiency of their guns by cramming in very large charges of powder,
+at least two bullets, and some buckshot besides. I often thought the
+danger was greater to themselves than to the bear. They never fire over
+twenty-five yards, and in fact generally allow the bear to come within
+twelve yards, when they pepper away at him.
+
+At last we were in position. It is usual to have a second gun, but I
+had only my rifle and revolver; unfortunately my gun was with my baggage
+at Maros Vasarhely. After waiting for some time without hearing anything
+but the creaking of the pine-trees in the wind, the advance of the
+beaters was at length audible. You hear repeated thuds with their axes
+on the trees, and you know that they are beating up your way. All at
+once I heard the unmistakable tread of some heavy four-footed beast. I
+held my breath, fearing to betray my presence. Nearer and nearer came
+the heavy tread, the branches cracking as the animal broke its way
+through the thicket. It must be a bear of the largest size, thought I,
+with a glow of delight warming up my whole frame at this supreme moment.
+I had just raised the rifle to my shoulder, when--judge my disgust--when
+emerging from the thicket I saw a stray ox make his appearance! I could
+hardly resist putting a bullet into the stupid brute's carcass, but I
+remembered that I should have to pay for that little game.
+
+We moved on to another part of the forest, and the same programme of
+taking our positions and arranging the course of the beaters was gone
+through; but we met with no success. This was the more provoking,
+because on our return we found the fresh slot of a bear. He had
+evidently just saved himself in time; the marks of his claws were quite
+visible in the soft mud.
+
+These footprints were all we were destined to see, for evening was
+drawing on, and it was impossible to pursue the sport any farther. Of
+course we commenced operations far too late in the day; it was simply
+ridiculous to begin at such a late hour in the autumn afternoon. It was
+very disappointing; but there is so much of mere chance in bear-hunting,
+that where one man has the luck to kill four or five in a season,
+another may go on for two years following without getting as much as a
+shot.
+
+The sportsman will be glad to hear, though the farmer is of quite
+another mind, that bears, wolves, and wild-boar are increasing very much
+in the Carpathians generally. I have mentioned this fact before, but I
+allude to it again because it was everywhere corroborated. On all sides
+this increase is attributed to the tax on firearms, which deters the
+peasants from keeping them down. They are often too poor to pay for a
+shooting licence and the gun-tax.
+
+Toplicza has some warm mineral springs. Warm water seems to be turned on
+everywhere in Hungary. One of these springs is situated close to the
+river, where a simple kind of bath-house has been constructed. The water
+contains iodine. While at Toplicza I heard that somewhere up in the
+mountains on the Bukovina side there is a large deposit of sulphur. The
+accounts were very vague, but I thought I should like to have a look at
+the place. The district was pronounced to be so unsafe, and so many
+robbers had appeared on the scene lately, that I thought proper to take
+two men with me; one as a guide, for he had been there before, and a
+forester armed with a gun.
+
+My friends the Armenians kindly insisted on providing me with everything
+necessary in the shape of food; and one day, the weather being fine, I
+started at noon on this expedition along with my attendants. We soon got
+into the forest again. The size of the trees was almost beyond belief;
+but, alas! many of them had been destroyed in the same ruthless manner
+that I have so often alluded to in my travels. Here were half-burned
+trunks of splendid oak-trees lying rotting on the ground in every
+direction, showing clearly that the forest had been fired. The attempt
+at a clearing, if that was the object, was utterly abortive; for when
+the trees are down a thick undercover grows up, more impervious by far,
+and there is less chance of obtaining pasturage than ever, but the
+Wallack never reasons upon this. The State reckons the value of its
+"forests" at something like 27,000,000 florins, and yet there is no
+efficient supervision of this property, which, from the increasing
+scarcity of wood in Europe, must become in time more and more valuable.
+The mines of Hungary are estimated in round numbers at 210,000,000
+florins, and here again there is a lamentable absence of wise
+administration. The mining laws, I understand, are at present under
+revision. Foreign enterprise is not discouraged, but I cannot go so far
+as to say that the adventure would not meet with difficulties from local
+obstructions of an official or semi-official nature.
+
+We had started from Toplicza in beautiful weather, but before sunset a
+complete change came on, and heavy rain set in. This was a very
+uncomfortable look-out, for we could see nothing that offered us
+anything like a decent shelter for the night. The guide urged us to go
+on, for he said there was a hut at the top of the mountain; so we beat
+our way along through the driving rain, and eventually came to the top.
+We soon found the hut, but it was a mere ruin; it might have been in
+Chancery for any number of years, indeed one end had tumbled in. It was
+as uninviting a place to spend a night in as could well be imagined.
+Fortunately one corner was still weather-proof, the fir bark of the roof
+yet remaining intact. We had to be careful, however, about the roof,
+which consisted of stems of trees supported longitudinally. It was easy
+to see that a very little incautious vivacity on our part would bring
+the whole structure down on our heads. Water was found not far off, and
+we soon had a fire, which blazed up cheerfully. Its warmth was very
+necessary, for it was bitterly cold and damp. I had brought with me a
+hammock made of twine; this I slung in the driest corner, and after
+supper I turned in and was soon asleep. The faculty of sleep is an
+immense comfort. A man may put it high up on the credit side in striking
+the balance of good and evil in his lot.
+
+When I awoke the next morning, I found that the weather was worse than
+ever. The mist was so dense that the Wallack guide said it was perfectly
+impossible to go on, in fact we might consider ourselves lucky if we
+were able to get back without mischance. Not to be daunted, I waited
+till nearly noon, thinking it was possible that the mist might rise, and
+restore to us the bright skies of yesterday. A change came, but not the
+one we hoped for. The cold rain turned into snow, so it would have been
+sheer madness to think of going on.
+
+We were in a wretched plight, crowded together in the corner of the
+ruined hut, and snow as well as "light" came in "through the chinks that
+time had made." Owing to a change in the wind, the smoke of the fire
+outside drifted in; and there was evidence of a worse drift--that of the
+snow, which before nightfall I daresay may have buried the cottage out
+of sight.
+
+I now gave orders for returning, and just as I stepped out of the hut,
+or was in the act of leaving, one of the heavy beams from the roof fell
+upon me; it caught me on the back of my head--a pretty close shave! The
+ride back, with the consciousness of having failed to attain the object
+I had in view, was depressing. Nothing could be more unlovely than these
+once glorious forests. In parts we had to pass through a mere morass,
+into which my horse kept sinking.
+
+At last we got back to Toplicza. The forester and the Wallack thought
+themselves amply compensated by a few paper florins. I daresay they kept
+off the rheumatism by extra potations of _slivovitz_. As for myself,
+having been dipped, yea, having even undergone total immersion in the
+morass, I felt like those extinct animals who have left their
+interesting bones nice and dry in the blue lias, but who in daily life
+must have been "mud all over." I presented such a spectacle on my
+return, that I consider it was an instance of the greatest
+kindness--indeed it must have been a severe strain on the hospitality
+of my friends to give me house-room.
+
+As my garments had not the durability of those of the Israelites in the
+wilderness, it became a very desirable object to effect a junction with
+my portmanteau, which was sitting all this time at Maros Vasarhely. The
+weather, too, had calmed my ardour for the mountains, and I resolved to
+strike into the interior of Transylvania, and see something of the
+towns.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXVIII.
+
+     Visits at Transylvanian chateaux--Society--Dogs--Amusements at
+     Klausenburg--Magyar poets--Count Istvan Szechenyi--Baron
+     Eoetvos--'The Village Notary'--Hungarian self-criticism--Literary
+     taste.
+
+
+I must now drop the itinerary of my journey and speak more in
+generalities; for after leaving the wilder districts of the Szeklerland,
+I took the opportunity of presenting some of the letters of introduction
+that I brought with me from England.
+
+For the succeeding six weeks or more I spent my time most agreeably in
+the chateaux of some of the well-known Transylvanian nobles. For the
+time my wild rovings were over. The bivouac in the glorious forest and
+robber-steak cooked by the camp fire--the pleasures of "roughing
+it"--were exchanged for the charms of society.
+
+And society is _very_ charming in Transylvania. Nearly all the ladies
+speak English well, and are extremely well read in our literature. To
+speak French is a matter of course everywhere; but they infinitely
+prefer our literature, and speak our language always in preference when
+they can.
+
+The works of such men as Darwin, Lyell, and Tyndall are read. I remember
+seeing these, and many other leading authors, in a bookseller's shop in
+Klausenburg. It is true this last-named place is the capital--viz., the
+Magyar capital--of Transylvania, but in most respects it is a mere
+provincial town.
+
+A friend and myself happened to be lunching one day in the principal
+inn--it was in the _salle a manger_--and we were talking together in
+English. Presently I noticed a remarkably little man at the next table,
+who looked towards us several times; finally he got up from his chair,
+or rather I should say got down, and making a sign to us equivalent to
+touching his hat, he said, "Gentlemen, I am an Englishman; I thought it
+right to tell you in case you should think there was no one present who
+understood what you were talking!" It was very civil of the little
+fellow, for we were talking rather unguardedly about some well-known
+personages. I then asked him how he came to be in this part of the
+world, and he told me he was a jockey, and had been over several times
+to ride at the Klausenburg races; but he added he was very sorry that
+they always took place on a Sunday! There is certainly no "_bitter_
+observance of the Sabbath" in Hungary generally. Offices are open, and
+business is conducted as usual--certainly in the morning.
+
+There is some good coursing in the neighbourhood of Klausenburg, which
+is kept up closely on the pattern of English sport. I had two or three
+good runs with the harriers, and on one occasion got a spill that was a
+close shave of breaking my neck. Count T---- had given me a mount. The
+horse was all right, but not knowing the nature of the country, I was
+not aware that the ground drops suddenly in many places. Coming to
+something of this kind without preparation, the horse threw me, and I
+was pitched down an embankment upwards of twelve feet in depth. Several
+people who saw the mishap thought it was all up with me, but, curiously
+enough, I was absolutely unhurt. A pull at my flask set me all right,
+and I walked back the five miles to Klausenburg. The horse unfortunately
+galloped away, and was not brought back till the next day, and then
+minus his saddle; however, it was recovered subsequently.
+
+In the present scare about hydrophobia the following is worth notice.
+One day when walking in the principal street of Klausenburg I heard a
+great barking amongst the dogs, of which there were some dozen following
+a closed van. On inquiry I found that once a-week the authorities send
+round to see if there are any dogs at large without the regulation
+tax-collar. If any such vagabonds are found they are consigned to the
+covered cart, and are forthwith shot. This excellent arrangement has the
+effect of keeping down the number of dogs; besides, there is the
+safeguard attendant upon the responsibility of ownership. The funny part
+of the matter is that the tax-paying dogs are not the least alarmed at
+the appearance of the whipper-in, but join with great show of public
+spirit in denouncing the collarless vagrants.
+
+Klausenburg has not the picturesque situation of Kronstadt, but it is a
+pleasant clean-looking town, with wide streets diverging from the Platz,
+where stands the Cathedral, completed by Matthias Corvinus, son of
+Hunyadi. This famous king, always called "the Just," was born at
+Klausenburg in 1443.
+
+As Herrmannstadt and Kronstadt are chiefly inhabited by Saxon
+immigrants, and Maros Vasarhely is the central place of the Szeklers, so
+may Klausenburg, or rather Kolozsvar, as it is rightly named, be
+considered the Magyar capital of Transylvania.
+
+The gaieties of the winter season had not commenced when I was there,
+but I understand the world amuses itself immensely. The nobles come in
+from their remote chateaux to their houses, or apartments, as it may be,
+in town, and then the ball is set going.
+
+There is a good theatre in Klausenburg. I found the acting decidedly
+above the average of the provincial stage generally. I saw a piece of
+Moliere's given, and though I could only understand the Hungarian very
+imperfectly, I was enabled to follow it well enough to judge of the
+acting.
+
+Shakespeare is so great a favourite with the Hungarians that his plays
+are certainly more often represented on the stage at Buda-Pest than in
+London. The Hungarian translation of our great poet, as I observed
+before, is most excellent.
+
+It was a band of patriotic poets who first employed the language of the
+Magyars in their compositions. Hitherto all literary utterance had been
+confined to Latin, or to the foreign tongues spoken at courts. The rash
+attempt of Joseph II. to denationalise the Magyar and to Germanise
+Hungary by imperial edicts had a violent reactionary result. The
+strongest and the most enduring expression is to be found in the popular
+literature which was inaugurated by such men as Csokonai and the two
+brothers Kisfaludy, who were all three born in the last century. The
+songs of Csokonai have retained their hold on the people's hearts
+because, and here is the keynote--"because they breathe the true
+Hungarian feeling." The insistent themes of the Magyar poets were the
+love of country, the joys of home, the duty of patriotism. Such was the
+soul-stirring 'Appeal' ('Szozat') of Varosmazty, the chief of all the
+tuneful brethren, the Schiller of Hungary. Born with the nineteenth
+century, and at once its child and its teacher, he died in 1855--too
+soon, alas! to see the benefits accruing to his beloved country from the
+wise reconciliatory policy of his dear friend Deak. His funeral was
+attended by more than 20,000 people, and the country provided for his
+family.
+
+Whenever the poets of Hungary are mentioned the name of Petoefy will
+occur, and he was second to none in originality of thought and poetic
+utterance. An intense love of his native scenery, not excepting even the
+dreary boundless Alfoeld, afforded inspiration for his genius. His poetic
+temperament and pathetic story give him a certain likeness to the brave
+young Koerner, dear to every German heart. Petoefy was engaged in editing
+a Hungarian translation of Shakespeare when he was interrupted by the
+political events of 1848. His pen and sword were alike devoted to the
+cause of patriotism, and entering the army under General Bern, he
+became his adjutant and secretary. During the memorable winter campaign
+in Transylvania he wrote proclamations and warlike songs. We all know
+the story of the Russian invasion of Transylvania at Austria's appeal,
+and how the brave Hungarians fought and fell at the battle of
+Schaessburg. This engagement took place on the 31st of July '49. Petoefy
+was present, and indeed had been seen in the thick of the fight; but in
+the evening he was missing from the roll-call, and, strange to say, his
+remains, though searched for, were never identified. The mystery which
+hung over his fate caused many romantic stories to be circulated, and
+not a few claimants to his name and fame have arisen. Even within the
+last three months a report has reached his native village that he had
+been seen in the mines of Siberia, where he has been kept a prisoner all
+these years by the Russians!
+
+The language of the Magyars was heard not in poetry alone, but in the
+sternest prose. "Hungary is not, but Hungary shall be," said Count
+Szechcnyi. The men who worked out this problem were politicians,
+writers, and orators. Foremost among them may be reckoned Baron Eoetvos,
+one of the most liberal-minded and enlightened thinkers of the day. His
+efforts were specially directed to improving the education of all
+classes of the community. With this end and aim he worked unceasingly.
+He held the post of Minister of Cultus and Education in the first
+independent Hungarian Ministry in 1848, but withdrew in consequence of
+political differences with his colleagues. Again in 1867 he held the
+same _porte-feuille_ under Count Andrassy, but died in 1870 universally
+regretted. His best known literary productions arc two novels, 'The
+Carthusian' and 'The Village Notary,' The latter highly-interesting,
+indeed dramatic story, may be recommended to any one who desires to know
+what really were the sufferings entailed upon the peasantry under the
+old system of forced labour. It is one of those fictions which, as old
+Walter Savage Landor used to say, "are more true than fact." It was the
+'Uncle Tom's Cabin' of that day, and of the cause he had at heart--the
+abolition of serfdom. In reading this most thrilling story, one can
+understand the evil times that gave birth to the terrible saying of the
+peasant, "that a lord is a lord, even in hell."
+
+Yet it was the nobles themselves who abolished at one sweep all the
+privileges of their order. It was by their unanimous consent that the
+manumission of nearly eight millions of serfs was granted, at the same
+time converting the feudal holdings of some 500,000 families into
+absolute freeholds.
+
+In Hungary it would appear that public opinion is generously receptive
+of new impulses, and in this particular the Hungarians resemble us, as
+they claim to do in many things, calling themselves "the English of the
+East."
+
+"It is curious," said Baroness B---- to me one day, "that with all our
+respect for British institutions, and everything that is English, that
+we fail to copy their straight good sense. We have too many talkers, too
+few workers. We are not yet a money-making nation; we have no idea of
+serious work, and our spirit for business is not yet developed. Almost
+all industrial or commercial enterprises are in the hands of Jews,
+Armenians, Greeks, who are great scoundrels generally."
+
+"The Armenians are instinctive traders," I remarked.
+
+"Yes, true; just as we are the very reverse. But this change has come
+over us. Taking again our cue from England, we see that trade can be
+respectable, and those who follow it are respected--with you at least.
+We try to _Englishify_ ourselves, and some of the younger members of the
+community make a funny hash of it. For instance, a rich young country
+swell in our neighbourhood went over to England and came back in
+raptures with everything, and tried to turn everything upside down at
+home without accommodating his new ideas to the circumstances that were
+firmly rooted here. You may see him now sit down to dinner with an
+English dresscoat over his red Hungarian waistcoat. His freaks went far
+beyond this, and he came to be known as the 'savage Englishman.'"
+
+I asked my hostess if our English novels were much read.
+
+"Everybody likes your English fiction," replied Baroness B----. "It is
+immensely read, and has helped to promote the knowledge of the language
+more perhaps than anything else. We, too, have our writers of fiction.
+Jokai is the most prolific, but he has got to be too much an imitator of
+the French school. One of his earlier novels, 'The New Landlord,' has
+been translated into English, and gives a good picture of Hungarian life
+in the transition state of things. For elegance of style he is not to be
+compared to Gzulai Paul and Baron Eoetvos."
+
+"There seems to be a growing interest in natural history and
+literature," I remarked, "judging from the enormous increase of
+newspapers and journals which pass through the post, both foreign and
+local."
+
+"With regard to local journals," replied the Baroness, "we have the
+'Osszehasonlito irodalomtoertenelmi Lapok' ('Comparative Literary
+Journal'), which is published at Klausenburg, at Herrmannstadt, and at
+Kesmark in Upper Hungary. There are Natural History Societies, who
+publish their reports annually. Added to this, there are few towns of
+any size that have not their public libraries. I speak specially of
+Transylvania, where we affect a higher degree of culture than in Hungary
+Proper."
+
+Baroness B---- was very anxious to impress upon me that certainly in
+Transylvania the ladies of good society do not affect "fast" manners or
+style. "Very few amongst us," she said, "adopt the nasty habit of
+smoking cigarettes. I am very sorry that Countess A---- has attempted to
+introduce this fashion from Pest."
+
+Buda-Pest, though the capital, is not the place to find the best
+Hungarian society. Many of the old families prefer Pressburg; and
+Klausenburg is to Transylvania what Edinburgh was to Scotland, socially
+speaking, before the days of railroads. In the season good society may
+be met with at the various baths, but every year the facilities of
+travel enable people to go farther a-field health-seeking and for
+pleasure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXIX.
+
+     A visit at Schloss B------National characteristics--Robber
+     stories--Origin of the "poor lads"--Audacity of the
+     robbers--Anecdote of Deak and the housebreaker--Romantic story of a
+     robber chief.
+
+
+The three weeks I remained at Schloss B---- were amongst the most
+agreeable days I spent in Transylvania. There were a great many visitors
+coming and going, affording me an excellent opportunity of seeing the
+society of that part of Hungary. With regard to the younger generation,
+the Transylvanians are like well-bred people all the world over. The
+ladies have something of the frankness of superior Americans--the sort
+of Americans that Lord Lytton describes in 'The Parisians'--and in
+consequence conversation has more vivacity than with us.
+
+In the elder generation you may detect far more of national peculiarity;
+in some cases they retain the national dress, and with it the Magyar
+pride and ostentation, so strongly dashed with Orientalism. Then again,
+in the houses of the old nobility, one is struck by many curious
+incongruities. For example, Count T---- has a large retinue of
+servants--five cooks are hardly able at times to supply his hospitable
+board, so numerous are the guests--yet the walls of his rooms are simply
+whitewashed, and the furniture is a mixture of costly articles from
+Vienna and the handiwork of the village carpenter. A whole array of
+servants, who are in gorgeous liveries at dinner, may be seen barefooted
+in the morning.
+
+In talking with some of the elderly members of the family, I heard many
+curious anecdotes of old Hungarian customs; but "the old order changeth"
+here as elsewhere, and a monotonous uniformity threatens the social
+world. Even as it is, everybody who entertains his friends at dinner is
+much the same as everybody else, be he in Monmouth or Macedon.
+Distinctive characteristics of race are found more easily in the common
+people, who are less amenable to the change of fashion than their
+superiors. Baroness B---- had a complete repertory of robber stories,
+some of which are so characteristic that I will repeat them here.
+
+I have before alluded to the peculiarity which existed in the old system
+preserving to the peasant his personal freedom, though the land was
+burdened with duties. It was not till 1838 that the Austrians
+introduced the conscription, and subsequently they carried out the law
+with a brutality that made the innovation thoroughly detested by the
+peasantry. Accustomed to their tradition of personal freedom, the forced
+military service in itself was regarded with intense dislike. The richer
+classes were enabled to pay a certain sum of money for exemption, but
+the poor were helpless; they were dragged from their houses and sent to
+distant parts of the empire, to serve for a long period of years. As
+cases had not unfrequently occurred of the recruits running away, they
+were subjected to the ignominy of being chained together in gangs; and
+as if this was not enough, many superfluous brutalities were inflicted
+by the Austrian officials.
+
+To escape from this hated service, many a young man fled from his home
+in anticipation of the next levy of the conscription, and hid himself in
+the shepherds' _tanya_ in the plain. These remote dwellings in the
+distant _puszta_ were no bad hiding--places, and the fugitives were
+freely harboured by the shepherds, who shared the animosity of the "poor
+lads" against the Austrian conscription. In course of time these outlaws
+found honest work difficult to procure; they became, in short, vagabonds
+on the face of the earth, and ended by forming themselves into robber
+bands. They had also their class grievance against the rich, who had
+been enabled to buy themselves off from serving in the army. The numbers
+of the original fugitives were soon increased by evil-doers from all
+sides--ruffians who had a natural bent for rapine--and a plague of
+robbers was the result, threatening all parts of Hungary. The mischief
+grew to such serious proportions, and it transpired that the robbers had
+everywhere accomplices in the towns and villages. Persons of apparently
+respectable position were suspected of favouring them; they were called
+"poor lads," and a glamour of patriotism was flung over the fugitives
+from Austrian tyranny.
+
+During the war of independence these robber bands rallied round their
+elected chief, Shandor Bozsa, and actually offered their services to the
+Hungarian Government, as they desired to take part in the great national
+struggle. The Provisional Government accepted their services, and they
+came pouring in from every part of the country. At first they behaved
+very well, and in fact many of these "irregulars" distinguished
+themselves by acts of great valour. In the end it was the old story;
+they soon showed a degree of insubordination that rendered them worse
+than useless to the regular army. By the time the struggle for
+independence had found its melancholy ending at Villagos, these fellows
+were again at their old tricks of horse-stealing and cattle-lifting, and
+they went so far as to waylay even the _honved_, the national Hungarian
+militia. The well-disposed part of the community was powerless to resist
+the robbers, for after the disastrous events of 1849 the Austrian
+Government prohibited the possession of firearms, even for hunting
+purposes, so that villages and towns, one might almost say, were at the
+mercy of a band of well-armed robbers. The Government were so busy
+hunting down political conspirators, and hanging, shooting, and
+imprisoning patriots, that they were indifferent to the increase of
+brigandage. The statistics of the political persecutions which Hungary
+suffered at the hands of Austria during the ten years that followed
+Villagos were significant. Upwards of two thousand persons were
+sentenced to death, nearly ten times that number were thrown into
+prison, and almost five thousand Hungarian patriots were driven into
+exile--amongst the number Deak, the yet-to-be saviour of his country.
+
+But to return to the robbers. They had spread themselves over the whole
+land; from the forests of Bakony to Transylvania, from the Carpathians
+to the Danube, no place was free from these desperate marauders. They
+committed incredible deeds of boldness. On one occasion seven or eight
+robbers attacked a caravan of thirty waggons in the neighbourhood of
+Szegedin, the cavalcade being on its way to the fair in that town. The
+traders were without a single firearm amongst them, so that the
+fully--armed brigands effected their purpose, though it was broad
+daylight. Another time they entered a market town in Transylvania and
+coolly demanded that the broken wheel of their waggon should be mended,
+threatening to shoot down anybody who offered the slightest opposition.
+The post was frequently stopped, but it came to be remarked, that though
+the passengers were generally killed, the drivers escaped. This,
+together with the fact that the post was always stopped when there were
+large sums of money in course of transit, led the authorities to suspect
+that their employes were in collusion with the robbers, and subsequent
+events proved this to be the case.
+
+When the hostility of Austria had somewhat cooled down, the dangerous
+up-growth of these robber bands attracted the serious attention of the
+Government, and not only _gendarmerie_ but military force were employed
+against them. The officials to a man were Germans and Bohemians,
+indifferently honest, and hated by the peasantry, who, after all,
+preferred a Hungarian robber to an Austrian official. The consequence
+was that they were not by any means very ready to depose against the
+"poor lads," and the Government found themselves unequal to cope with
+the difficulty, so things went from bad to worse.
+
+In 1867, when at last the reconciliation policy of Deak had effected a
+substantial peace with Austria, the Hungarian Constitution being
+reestablished, and the towns and _comitats_ (counties) having got back
+their prerogatives and self-government, the intolerable evil of
+brigandage was at once brought before the attention of the Parliament
+assembled at Buda-Pest. There were a great many speeches made upon the
+subject, and Count Forgacs with a considerable military force was
+despatched to Zala and the adjoining country against the robbers. He
+simply drove them out of one part of the country to carry on their
+devastations in another, and dreadful robberies and murders were
+reported from Szegedin. On several occasions the post was stopped, and
+the passengers were invariably killed. They even stopped the railway
+train one day at Peteri.
+
+Government were now obliged to take stronger measures. They recalled
+Count Forgacs, and despatched Count Radaz as Royal Commissary with
+augmented powers, Parliament in the mean time voting a grant of 60,000
+florins for the purpose.
+
+The energetic measures taken by Count Radaz led to some remarkable
+disclosures. He discovered that tradesmen, magistrates, and other
+employes in towns and villages were in communication with the brigands,
+and in fact shared the booty. It came to be remarked that certain
+persons returned suddenly to their homes after a mysterious absence,
+which corresponded with the commission of some desperate outrage in
+another part of the country.
+
+In the space of fifteen months Count Radaz had to deal with nearly six
+hundred cases of capital offences, and no less than two hundred of the
+malefactors were condemned to the gallows.
+
+"Wherever they can the peasants will shelter the 'poor lads' from the
+law," said my friend. "It happened only last spring in our neighbourhood
+that a robber had been tracked to a village, but though this had
+happened on several occasions, yet the authorities failed to find him.
+It was known that he had a sweetheart there, a handsome peasant girl,
+who was herself a favourite with everybody. One day, however, the
+soldiers discovered him hidden in a hay-loft. There was a terrible
+struggle; the robber, discharging his revolver, killed one man and
+wounded another. At length he was secured, strongly bound, and placed in
+a waggon to be conveyed to the nearest fortress. When passing through a
+wood the convoy was set upon by a lot of women, who flung flowers into
+the waggon, and a little farther on a rescue was attempted; but the
+military were in strong force, and the villagers had to content
+themselves with loud expressions of sympathy for the 'poor lad.' He was,
+in truth, a handsome, gallant young fellow--open-handed, generous to the
+poor, and with the courage of a lion--just the sort of hero for a
+mischievous romance."
+
+The following story, related by my friend Baroness B----, proves that
+there were men amongst these outlaws who were not destitute of patriotic
+feeling. In the year 1867 a band of "poor lads" surprised a country
+gentleman's house by night. It was their habit to ask for money and
+valuables, and woe betide those who refused, unless they were strong
+enough to resist the demand. Horrible atrocities were committed by these
+miscreants, who have been known to torture the inhabitants of lonely
+dwellings, finishing their brutal work by setting fire to house and
+homestead.
+
+On the occasion above named the robber band consisted of more than a
+dozen well-armed men, and as the household was but small, resistance
+was out of the question. They made a forcible entrance, and were going
+the round of every room in the house, collecting all valuables of a
+portable nature, when it chanced that they entered the guest-chamber,
+that had for its occupant no less a person than the great patriot
+Francis Deak. The intruders instantly pounced on a very handsome gold
+watch lying on a table near the bedside. Mr Deak, thus rudely disturbed,
+awoke to the unpleasant fact that his much-prized watch was in the hands
+of the robbers. Giving them credit for some feelings of patriotism, he
+simply told them who he was, adding that the watch was the keepsake of a
+dear departed friend, and begged they would restore it to him. On
+hearing his name the chief immediately handed the watch back,
+apologising "very much for breaking in on the repose of honoured Mr
+Deak, whom they held in so much respect," adding "that the nature of
+their occupation obliged them to make use of the hours of the night for
+their work."
+
+The chance of interviewing Mr Deak was not to be neglected, so the
+robber chief sat down by the bedside of the statesman and had a chat
+about political affairs, and finally took his leave with many
+expressions of respect. Not an article of Mr Deak's was touched; they
+even contented themselves with a very moderate amount of black-mail
+from the master of the house, and no one was personally injured in any
+way.
+
+My next story is a very romantic one; it was related to me by an English
+friend who was travelling in Hungary as long ago as 1846, when the
+circumstance had recently occurred. It seems that in those days a
+certain lady, the widow of a wealthy magnate, inhabited a lonely castle
+not far from the principal route between Buda and Vienna. She received
+one morning a polite note requesting her to provide supper at ten
+o'clock that night for twelve gentlemen! She knew at once the character
+of her self-invited guests, and devised a novel mode of defence. Some
+people would have sent post-haste to the nearest town for help, but the
+_chatelaine_ could easily divine that every road from the castle would
+be watched to prevent communication, so she made her own plans.
+
+At ten o'clock up rode an armed band, twelve men in all; immediately the
+gate of the outer court and the entrance door were thrown open, as if
+for the most honoured and welcome guests. The lady of the castle herself
+stood in the entrance to receive them, richly dressed as if for an
+entertainment. She at once selected the chief, bade him welcome, gave
+orders that their horses should be well cared for, and then taking the
+arm of her guest, she led him into the dining-hall. Here a goodly feast
+was spread, the tables and sideboard being covered with a magnificent
+display of gold and silver plate, the accumulation of many generations.
+
+The leader of the robber band started back surprised, but immediately
+recovering his presence of mind, he seated himself calmly by the side of
+his charming hostess, who soon engaged him in conversation about the gay
+world of Vienna, whose doings were perfectly familiar to them both. At
+length, when the feast was nearly ended, the chief took out his watch
+and said, "Madame, the happiest moments of my life have always been the
+shortest. I have another engagement this night, but before I leave allow
+me to tell you that in appealing to my honour, as you have done
+to-night, you have saved me from the commission of a crime. Bad as I am,
+none ever appealed to my honour in vain. As for you, my men," he said,
+looking sternly round with his hand on his pistol, "I charge you to take
+nothing from this house; he who disobeys me dies that instant."
+
+The chief then asked for pen and paper, and writing some sentences in a
+strange character, handed it to his hostess, saying, "If you or your
+retainers should at any time lose anything of value, let that paper be
+displayed in the nearest town, and I pledge you my word the missing
+articles shall be returned." After this he took his leave, the troop
+mounted their horses and departed.
+
+My friend told me that he was enabled to verify the story; and he
+subsequently discovered the real name of the robber chief. He was an
+impoverished cadet of one of the noblest families in Hungary. His fate
+was sad enough; lie was captured a few months after this incident, and
+ended his life under the hands of the common hangman.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXX.
+
+     Return to Buda-Pest--All-Souls' Day--The cemetery--Secret burial of
+     Count Louis Batthyanyi--High rate of mortality at Buda-Pest.
+
+
+Some matters of business recalled me to Buda-Pest in the midst of a
+round of visits in Transylvania. The great hospitality of my new friends
+would have rendered a winter in that delightful country most agreeable,
+but the holiday part of my tour was over, and circumstances led me to
+pass some months in the capital.
+
+I got back just in time for All-Souls' Day. The _Fete des Morts_ is
+observed with great ceremony throughout Hungary, especially at
+Buda-Pest. In the afternoon of this day a friend and myself joined the
+throng, who were with one accord making their way eastward along the
+Radial Strasse, the great thoroughfare of Pest. It appeared as if the
+whole population of the town had turned out; private carriages,
+tramways, droskies alike were all crammed, driving in the same direction
+with the ceaseless stream of pedestrians. It was the day for the living
+to visit their dead! Attired in black, almost every one carried a
+funeral wreath; even the poorest and the humblest were taking some
+floral offering to their beloved ones who sleep for evermore in the
+great cemetery.
+
+There is a dynamic force in the sympathy of a crowd. I had the sensation
+of being carried along with the moving masses, without the exercise of
+my own will, I hardly know how one could have turned back. And on we
+went, the light of the short winter day meanwhile fading quickly into
+the gloom of night. Once beyond the gaslighted streets, the sense of
+darkness in the midst of the surging multitude was oppressive and
+unnatural. We were borne on towards the principal gate of the cemetery,
+and here the effect was most striking. We left the outer darkness, and
+stepped into an area of light; beyond the belt of cypress and of yew
+there was so brilliant an illumination that it threw its glowing
+reflection on the clouds that hung pall-like over the whole city.
+
+In all that crowded cemetery--and it is crowded--there was not a single
+grave without its lights. The most ordinary had rows of candles marking
+the simple form of the gravestone; but there were costlier tombs, with
+an array of lamps in banks of flowers beautifully arranged; and in the
+mausoleum of Batthyanyi the illuminations were effected by gas in the
+form of architectural lines of light. At this point the crowd was
+greatest. To visit the tomb of the martyred statesman is deemed a
+patriotic duty. The particulars relating to the disposal of Count
+Batthyanyi's body after his judicial murder in 1849 are not very
+generally known; the facts are as follows.
+
+At the close of hostilities in 1849, Haynau, commissioned by the Vienna
+Government, condemned people to death with unsparing barbarity--it was a
+way the Austrians had of stamping out insurrections. Amongst their
+victims was Count Louis Batthyanyi, some time President of the Hungarian
+Diet. Haynau wanted to have him hung at the gallows, but he was
+mercifully shot, at Pest on the 6th October 1849. It is said that the
+infamous Haynau was nearly mad with rage that his noble victim escaped
+the last indignity of hanging. His remains were ordered to be buried in
+a nameless coffin in the burial-ground of the common criminals,.and for
+many years it was supposed that he had received no other sepulchre. This
+was not so, however, for two priests who were greatly attached to the
+magnate's family procured possession of his body, and secretly conveyed
+it to the church in the Serviten Gasse, where they built up the coffin
+in the wall, and carefully preserved it for years. When the
+reconciliation with Austria took place, concealment being no longer
+necessary, they revealed their secret. The coffin was then opened, and
+it was found that the features of the unfortunate Batthyanyi had been
+singularly well preserved. Several who had fought for freedom by his
+side in 1848 looked once more on the face of their leader. The
+subsequent funeral in the new cemetery was made the occasion of a very
+marked display of patriotic feeling. Later an imposing monument was
+erected, but Count Batthyanyi's best and most enduring monument is the
+part he took in the emancipation of the serfs.
+
+Turning aside from the public demonstrations around the tombs of poets
+and patriots, we wandered down the more secluded alleys of the cemetery.
+In a lonely spot, quite away from the crowd and the glare, we came upon
+an exquisite little plot of garden with growing flowers, shrubs, and
+cypress-trees, tended, one could see, with loving care, "and in the
+garden there is a sepulchre." I shall not easily forget the look of
+ineffable grief visible on the face of an elderly man who was arranging
+and rearranging the lights round and about the family grave. We noticed
+that the names on the slab were those of a wife and mother, followed by
+her children, several of them, sons and daughters, the dates of their
+decease being terribly close one upon another. I had a conviction that
+the lonely man we saw there was the only survivor of his family; I feel
+sure it must have been so. It was very touching the way in which he
+(aimlessly, it seemed to me) moved first this light and then the other,
+or grouped them together around the vases of sweet flowers that decked
+the graves. It was all that remained for him to do for his beloved ones;
+and we could see the poor man was vainly occupying himself, lingering
+on, unwilling to leave the spot!
+
+We had not much fancy for returning amongst the patriotic crowd gathered
+about the gaslighted Valhalla, so we made our way out.
+
+We English must have our say about statistics whenever there is a
+wedding or a funeral, and as a fact Buda-Pest comes out very badly in
+its death-rate. It is only within the last two or three years that they
+have taken to publish the comparative returns of the capital cities of
+Europe, and now it appears that Buda-Pest is in the unenviable position
+of having on an average the highest death-rate of any European town! By
+some this is attributed to the great excess of infant
+mortality--consolatory for the grown-up people, as reducing their risk;
+but the children, who die like flies before they are twelve months old,
+may say with the epitaph in the country churchyard--
+
+    "If then we so soon were done for,
+    What the deuce were we begun for?"
+
+I do not speak as one with authority, but duly-qualified persons tell me
+that nursery reform is much needed in Hungary. I know not what it is
+they do with the children, only it seems the system is wrong somewhere,
+as the bills of mortality clearly testify.
+
+Then, again, the position of Pest is not healthy; it lies low, indeed
+some part of the city is built on the old bed of the Danube. The
+drainage, however, is very much improved of late years, and the
+magnificent river embankments have done much to obviate the malaria
+arising from mud-banks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXI.
+
+     Skating--Death and funeral of Deak--Deak's policy--Uneasiness about
+     the rise of the Danube--Great excitement about inundations--The
+     capital in danger--Night scene on the embankment--Firing the
+     danger-signal--The great calamity averted.
+
+
+The winter is usually a very pleasant season at Buda-Pest. There is
+plenty of amusement; in fact, during the carnival, parties, balls, and
+concerts succeed one another without cessation. The Hungarians dance as
+though it were an exercise of patriotism; with them it is no languid
+movement half deprecated by the utilitarian soul--it is a passion
+whirling them into ecstasy. But dancing was not the only diversion. The
+winter I was at Buda-Pest a long spell of enduring frost gave us some
+capital skating. The fashionable society meet for this amusement in the
+park, where there is a piece of ornamental water about five acres in
+extent. Here the Skating Club have established themselves, having
+erected a handsome pavilion at the side of the lake to serve as a
+clubhouse.
+
+From time to time _fetes_ are given on the ice. I was present on more
+than one occasion, and I must say it would be difficult to imagine a
+more animated or a prettier scene. The Hungarians always display great
+taste in their arrangements for festive gatherings. During the gay
+carnival of 1876 "all went merry as a marriage-bell" till the sad news
+spread that the great patriot Deak was sick unto death. Then we heard
+that he had passed away from our midst--I say "our midst," for Hungary
+throws a glamour over the stranger that is within her gates, and, moved
+by irresistible sympathy, you are led to rejoice in her joy and mourn
+with her in her sorrow.
+
+Buda-Pest presented on the day of Deak's funeral a scene never to be
+forgotten. It was a whole people mourning for their friend--their safe
+guide in time of trouble, the statesman who of all others had planted a
+firm basis of future prosperity.
+
+Francis Deak was endowed with that rare gift of persuasion which can
+appeal to hostile parties, and in the end unite them in common patriotic
+action. Any one who has attentively considered the state of parties in
+Hungary during the last decade will know with what irreconcilable
+elements the great statesman had to deal. To the Magyars he said, "He
+who will be free himself must be just to others;" while to the Slavs he
+said, "Labour with us, that we may labour for you." "Reconciliation"
+and "compromise" with Austria were the most unpopular words that could
+be uttered at that time, yet Deak bravely spoke them in his famous open
+letter on Easter day 1865. He continued his calm and steady appeal to
+public opinion till his patriotic efforts were rewarded by the close of
+that long-standing strife between the Hungarian people and their king.
+
+On the day of the funeral the ground was white with snow, the cold was
+intense, but a vast concourse of people followed Deak to his grave. On
+the road to the cemetery every house was hung with black, the city was
+really and truly in mourning; and well it might be, for their great
+peace-maker was dead, the man who beyond all others of his generation
+had the power to restrain the impatient enthusiasm of his countrymen by
+wise counsels that had grown almost paternal in their gentle influence.
+
+While we were still thinking and talking of Deaks political career, a
+very present cause for anxiety arose in reference to the state of the
+Danube. The annual breaking up of the ice is always anticipated with
+uneasiness, for during this century no less than thirteen serious
+inundations have occurred. This year there was reason for alarm, for
+early in January the level of the river was unusually high, and a
+further rise had taken place, unprecedented at that season.
+
+The greatest disaster of the kind on record took place in 1838, when the
+greater part of Pest was inundated, and something like four thousand
+houses were churned up in the flood; nor was this all, for the loss of
+life had been very considerable, owing to the sudden nature of the
+calamity on that occasion. The recollection of this terrible disaster
+within the living memory of many persons kept the inhabitants of
+Buda-Pest very keenly alive to any abnormal rise of the Danube waters.
+There were, besides, additional circumstances which created uneasiness
+and led to very acrimonious discussions. In recent years certain
+"rectifications" had been effected in the course of the Danube, which
+one-half of the community averred would for ever prevent the chance of
+any recurrence of the catastrophe of 1838. But there are always two
+parties in every question--"Little-endians" and "Big-endians"--and a
+great many people were of opinion that these very "rectifications" were,
+in fact, an additional source of peril to the capital.
+
+The case stands thus: the river, left to its own devices, separates
+below Pest into two branches, called respectively the Soroksar and the
+Promontar; these branches continue their course independently of each
+other for a distance of about fifty-seven kilometres, forming the great
+island of Csepel, which has an average width of about five kilometres.
+By certain embankments on the Soroksar branch the _regime_ of the river
+has been disturbed, and according to the opinion of M. Revy, a French
+engineer,[22] this has been a grave mistake, and he thinks that the
+Danube misses her former channel of Soroksar more and more. He further
+remarks in the very strongest terms upon an engineering operation "which
+proposes the amputation of a vital limb, conveying about one-third of
+the power and life of a giant river when in flood--a step which has no
+parallel in the magnitude of its consequences in any river with which I
+am acquainted."
+
+Now let us see which side the Danube took in the controversy in the
+spring of 1876. On the 17th of February the public mind had been almost
+tranquillised by the gradual fall of the water-level, but appearances
+changed very rapidly on the morning of the 18th, for alarming
+intelligence came to Buda-Pest from the Upper Danube. It seems that a
+sudden rise of temperature had melted the vast deposits of snow in the
+mountains of the Tyrol and other high ranges which send down their
+tributary waters to the Danube. A telegram from Passau announced the
+startling news that the waters of the Inn had risen eleven feet since
+the afternoon of the previous day, and further news came that the Danube
+had risen twelve and a half feet in the same time. Following close upon
+this came intelligence of a disastrous inundation at Vienna which had
+caused loss of life and property. The boats and barges in the winter
+harbour of the Austrian capital had been dragged from their anchorage,
+covering the river with the _debris_ of wreckage; in short, widespread
+mischief was reported generally from the Upper Danube.
+
+There was a prevalent idea that Buda-Pest had been saved by the flood
+breaking bounds at Vienna, but events proved that our troubles were yet
+to come. There was a peculiarity in the thaw of this spring which told
+tremendously against us. It came westward--viz., down stream instead of
+up stream, as it usually does. This state of things greatly increased
+the chances of flood in the middle Danube, as the descending volume of
+water and ice-blocks found the lower part of the river still frozen and
+inert. Even up to the 21st the daily rise in the river was only six
+inches, and if the large floes of ice which passed the town had only
+gone on their course without interruption all might still have been
+well. Unfortunately, however, this was far from being the case. It seems
+that at Eresi, a few miles below Buda-Pest, where the water is shallow,
+the ice had formed into a compact mass for the space of six miles, and
+at this point the down-drifting ice-blocks got regularly stacked, rising
+higher and higher, till the whole vast volume of water was bayed back
+upon the twin cities of Buda and Pest, the latter place being specially
+endangered by its site on the edge of the great plain.
+
+The authorities now devised plans for clearing away this ice-barrier,
+which acted as an impediment to the flow of the river. They tried to
+blow it up by means of dynamite, but all to no purpose; and it soon
+became apparent that the danger to the capital was hourly on the
+increase. At Pest the excitement and alarm became intense, for the
+mighty waters were visibly and inexorably rising. We saw the steps of
+the quay disappear one after another; then the whole subway of the
+embankment became engulfed. Ominous cracks appeared in the asphaltic
+promenade of the Corso, and the public were warned not to approach the
+railings, lest they should give way bodily and fall over into the water,
+which was lapping at the stonework. The "High-Water Commission" found it
+necessary to close all the drains, and steam-pumps were brought into
+requisition; the town was in fact besieged by water, and the enemy was
+literally at the gates. The ordinary business of life was suspended. The
+greeting in the street was not, "Good-day; how are you?" but, "What of
+the Danube?" "Do you know the last reading of the register?" "Does the
+water still rise?"
+
+"Still rising"--this was always the answer. On the morning of the 23d
+the river had risen upwards of two feet in twenty-four hours. Hundreds
+of people now thought seriously of flight from the doomed city. There
+was a complete exodus to the heights behind Buda. The suspension bridge
+was crowded day and night by the citizens, carrying with them their
+wives, their children, and a miscellaneous collection of valuables. In
+the town the shopkeepers removed their goods to the upper stories,
+plastering up the doors and windows of the basement with cement; and
+careful householders laid in provisions for several days' consumption.
+The authorities had enough on their hands; amongst other things they had
+to provide means of rescue, if necessary, for the inhabitants of Old
+Buda, New Pest, and other low-lying quarters. The names of all public
+buildings standing on higher levels, or otherwise suitable as places of
+refuge, were notified in the event of a catastrophe. Boats also were
+drawn up on the Corso and in some of the squares. From the want of these
+precautions there had resulted that lamentable loss of life in 1838.
+
+Furthermore, the public were to be informed when the danger became
+imminent by the firing of cannon-shots from the citadel on the lofty
+Blocksberg, which dominates the town on the Buda side. The day of the
+24th had been wild and stormy, the evening was intensely dark; but
+notwithstanding, thousands, nay half Pest, crowded the river-bank. For
+hours this surging multitude moved hither and thither on the Corso,
+drawn together by the sense of common danger and distress.
+
+I was there amongst the rest, peering into the darkness. My brother's
+arm was linked in mine, and we stood for some time on the Corso, just
+above the fruit-market, facing Buda; but nothing, not even the outline
+of the hills, was visible in the thick, black darkness of the night.
+"Ah! what is that?--look!" cried my brother, with a pressure of the arm
+that sent an electric shock through my body. Yes, sure enough, there was
+a flash of fire high up on the Blocksberg that made a rift in the
+darkness; and then, before we had time for speech, there came a sharp,
+ringing, detonating sound that made every window in the Corso rattle
+again. Once, twice, thrice the booming cannon roared out its terrible
+warning. It was the appointed signal, and we all knew that now the
+waters had risen so high that Old Buda and other low-lying districts
+were in danger.
+
+That was a terrible night. The general excitement was intense, and there
+were few people, I imagine, in all Pest who slept quietly in their beds.
+Every hour news came of the spread of the inundation. The waters were
+pouring in behind Pest from the upper bend of the river. Matters looked
+very serious indeed. All communication with the suburb of New Pest was
+cut off by the inroads of the flood. The night, with its pall of
+darkness, seemed interminable; but at length the morning came, and--God
+help us!--what a sea of trouble the light revealed! Whole districts
+under water; churches and palaces knee-deep in the flood; and above
+Pest--a widespread lake creeping on over the vast plain.
+
+The only news of the morning was a despairing telegram from Eresi that
+the barrier of ice there was immovable. This meant, as I have said
+before, that there was no release for the pent-up waters in the ordinary
+course. The accumulated flood must swamp the capital, and that soon. The
+river had ceased to flow past; it was no longer the "blue Danube"
+running merrily its five miles an hour, but a dead sea, an inexorable
+volume of water, slowly, silently creeping up to engulf us. Pest is a
+city which literally has its foundations made on the sand; a portion of
+it is built on the old bed of the Danube. Assuming a certain point as
+zero, the official measurements were made from this, and notices were
+published that if a maximum of twenty-five feet were attained by the
+rising waters, then Pest must inevitably be flooded.
+
+As evening came on, with the cloudy forecast of more rain, the gravest
+anxiety was visible on the face of every soul of that vast multitude.
+This anxiety was intensified when it was announced that the latest
+measurement was twenty-four feet nine inches; and what was simply
+appalling, that the register marked six inches rise in less than an
+hour. It was clear to every one that the critical moment had arrived.
+There was little to hope, and much to fear. Darkness fell upon as dismal
+a scene as imagination could well conceive. If the water once overlapped
+the embankment at the fruit-market, it must very soon pour in in vast
+volume; for the streets there are considerably lower than the level of
+the Corso--as it was, several large blocks of ice had floated or slid
+over on the quay. At this spot a serious catastrophe was apprehended.
+
+I think it must have been ten o'clock (my friends and I had just taken a
+hasty supper) when the fortress on the Blocksberg again belched forth
+its terrible sound of warning. This time there were six shots fired;
+this was the signal of "Pest in danger." A profound impression of alarm
+fell on the assembled multitude. Some went about wringing their hands;
+others left the Corso hastily, going home, I imagine, to tell their
+women to prepare for the worst. I was unconscious at the time of taking
+note of things passing round me, and it seems strange, considering the
+acute tension of my nerves, that I saw, and can now recall with
+persistent accuracy, a lot of trivial and utterly unimportant incidents
+that happened in the crowd. I remember the size and colour of a dog that
+manifested his share in the common excitement by running perpetually
+between everybody's legs, and I could draw the face of a frightened
+child whom I saw clinging to its mother's skirts.
+
+We never quitted the Corso. Though this was the third night we had not
+taken off our clothes, it was impossible to think of rest now. I felt no
+fatigue, and I hardly know how the last hour or two passed, but I heard
+distinctly above the murmur of voices the town clocks strike twelve.
+Just afterwards, a man running at full speed broke through the crowd,
+shouting as he went, "The water is falling! the water is falling!" He
+spoke in German, so I understood the words directly. There was great
+excitement to ascertain if the report was correct. Thank God! he spoke
+words of truth. The gauge actually marked a decrease of no less than two
+inches in the height of the river, and this decrease had taken place in
+the space of half an hour. The river had attained the highest point when
+the danger-signal was fired. It had never risen beyond, though the level
+had been stationary for some time.
+
+Every one was surprised at the rapid fall of the Danube; it was
+difficult to account for. It soon came to be remarked that the vast
+volume of water was visibly moved onward. If the river was flowing on
+its way, that meant the salvation of the city--the fact was most
+important. I myself saw a dark mass--a piece of wreckage, probably, or
+the carcass of an animal--pass with some rapidity across a track of
+light reflected on the water. It was difficult to make out anything
+clearly in the darkness, but I felt sure the object, whatever it was,
+was borne onward by the stream.
+
+It was a generally-expressed opinion that something must have happened
+farther down the river to relieve the pent-up waters. Very shortly
+official news arrived, and spread like wildfire, that the Danube had
+made a way for itself right across the island of Csepel into the
+Soroksar arm of the river.
+
+Csepel is an island some thirty miles long, situated a short distance
+below Pest. The engineering works for the regulation of the Danube had,
+as I said before, closed this Soroksar branch, and the river, in
+reasserting its right of way to the sea, caused a terrible calamity to
+the villages on the Csepel Island, but thereby Hungary's capital was
+saved.
+
+[Footnote 22: The Danube at Buda-Pest. Report addressed to Count
+Andrassy by J.J. Revy, C.E. 1876.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXII.
+
+     Results of the Danube inundations--State of things at
+     Baja--Terrible condition of New Pest--Injuries sustained by the
+     island garden of St. Marguerite--Charity organisation.
+
+
+Though Buda-Pest had escaped the worst of the threatened calamity, the
+state of the low-lying suburbs of the town on both sides of the river
+was very serious, and, as it turned out, weeks elapsed before the waters
+entirely subsided. The extent of the Danube inundations in 1876 was far
+greater than the flood of 1838; the latter was localised to Buda-Pest,
+where, from the suddenness of the catastrophe, the sacrifice of life was
+far greater than at present. But on this occasion the mischief was wide
+spread indeed. From Passau to Orsova the banks of the Danube were more
+or less flooded. The havoc below Pest was wellnigh incalculable. The
+river had in places spread itself out like a small sea, inundating lands
+already in seed; this was specially the case at Paks, where both banks
+of the river are equally low--as a rule, the left side was the more
+flooded the whole way along.
+
+At Baja the destruction to property was most serious. Some very
+important works had just been completed, and these were all swept away
+two days after the Danube had burst over the Csepel Island at Pest. It
+is a matter of interest to note the travelling rate of the flood, which
+from being ice-clogged was less rapid than one would suppose. Baja is
+120 miles below Pest.
+
+The works here referred to were in parts a canal, to feed the old
+Francis Canal, which connects the Danube and Theiss, in order to prevent
+the stoppage of traffic, unavoidable at low water. The water and ice
+brought down by the flood hurled themselves with such force against the
+closed gates of the canal that they were burst open, and a masonry wall
+7 feet in thickness and 250 in length was entirely overthrown. This
+incident, together with many others, helps to illustrate the action of
+water in flood as a factor in certain geological changes--the gorge of
+Kasan, to wit, where the Danube has broken through the Carpathian chain.
+
+In the course of little more than a day the waters at Buda-Pest had
+fallen two and a half feet; but afterwards the fall was very slow
+indeed, which circumstance greatly protracted the misery of the
+unfortunate inhabitants of Old Buda and New Pest, the two districts most
+seriously compromised. Joining a relief party, I went in a pontoon to
+visit New Pest. Vast blocks of ice were lying heaped up amidst the
+_debris_ of the ruin they had made; whole terraces and streets were only
+distinguishable by lines of rubbish somewhat raised above the flood: the
+devastation was complete.
+
+On our way to the pontoon we passed a tongue of land which had not been
+submerged, with a few houses intact. In this street, if it may be so
+called, a crowd of more than a hundred women was collected; these were
+mostly seated on boxes or other fragments of furniture that had been
+saved; one and all had their faces turned towards the waste of waters,
+where their homes had been. I shall never forget their looks of mute
+despair; there was no crying, no noise, their very silence was a gauge
+of the utter misery that had befallen them.
+
+The sea of trouble in which we found ourselves was strewn with wreckage
+of all kinds, including the bodies of many domestic animals. Doubtless
+many lives were lost; it will perhaps never be known how many. It was
+unfortunate that no service was organised for saving life at the
+bridges. Several lamentable accidents and loss of life took place owing
+to the drifting away of boats and barges up stream. A friend of mine saw
+a barge with four men on board jammed in between blocks of ice, and
+hurried under the suspension bridge and down the stream. No one was able
+to respond to the heart-rending appeals of the men, who very probably
+might have been saved if simply ropes had been hanging from the bridge.
+I myself saw a poor fellow perish in those churning waters; it was
+terrible to think of his thus drowning in the presence of thousands of
+fellow-creatures.
+
+The amount of wreckage that passed Buda-Pest gave one some idea of the
+frightful amount of damage higher up the stream; there were heaps of
+barrels, woodstacks, trees, furniture, and even houses with their
+chimneys standing!
+
+The beautiful island of St. Marguerite, just above Buda-Pest, suffered
+most severely. It was four feet under water; and the drift ice did
+immense damage to the trees, causing abrasions of the bark at eight to
+ten feet above the ground.
+
+It may well be imagined that the Charity Organisation Committee had
+enough on their hands. Nearly 20,000 people sought the shelter provided
+in the public buildings and other places appointed by the authorities,
+and for fully a month after the catastrophe thousands had to be fed
+daily at the public expense.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIII.
+
+     Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains--Railways in Hungary--The
+     train stopping for a rest--The Alfoeld--Shepherds of the plain--Wild
+     appearance of the Rusniacks--Slavs of Northern Hungary--Marmaros
+     Szigeth--Difficulty in slinging a hammock--The Jews of
+     Karasconfalu--Soda manufactory at Boeska--Romantic scenery--Salt
+     mines--Subterranean lake.
+
+
+The spring was already melting into summer--and the melting process is
+pretty rapid in Hungary--when an opportunity occurred enabling me to
+visit the north-eastern part of the country with a friend who was going
+to the Marmaros Mountains on business. Even this wild and remote
+district is not without railway communication, and we took our tickets
+for Szigeth, in the county of Marmaros, learning at the same time, to
+our great satisfaction, that we could go straight on to our destination
+without stopping. Though my friend is a Hungarian the route was as new
+to him as to myself.
+
+The railway system has been enormously extended in this country during
+the last ten years. In Transylvania, in the Tokay Hegyalia, in the
+Zipsland, and in the mining district of Schemnitz a whole network of
+lines has been opened up. Our route from Debreczin to Szigeth is one of
+those recently opened. The railway statistics of Hungary are very
+significant of progress. In 1864 only 1903 kilometres were open, whereas
+ten years later the figures had risen to 6392 kilometres; and the
+extension has been very considerable even subsequently, though
+enterprise of every kind received a check in 1873, from which the
+country has not yet recovered.
+
+I confess I was very glad to have come in for the days of the iron
+horse, for it would be difficult to imagine anything more tiresome than
+a drive on ordinary wheels across the vast Hungarian plain. It is so
+utterly featureless as to be even without landmarks. Except for the
+signs of the heavenly bodies, a man might, in a fit of absence, turn
+round and fail to realise whether he was going backwards or forwards.
+Right or left, it is all the same monotonous dead level, with scarce an
+object on which to rest the eye. Here and there a row of acacia-trees
+may be seen marking the boundary of an estate, and near by the sure
+indication of a well in the form of a lofty pole balanced transversely;
+but even this does not help you, for "grove nods at grove," and what you
+have just seen on the right-hand side is sure somehow to be repeated on
+the left, so you are all at sea again.
+
+Sometimes a mirage deludes the traveller in the Hungarian plain with the
+fair presentment of a lake fringed with forest-trees; but the semblance
+fades into nothingness, and he finds himself still in an endless waste,
+"without a mark, without a bound." Dreary, inexpressibly dreary to all
+save those who are born within its limits; for, strange to say, they
+love their level plain as well, every bit as well, as the mountaineer
+loves his cloud-capped home.
+
+This plain--the Alfoeld, as it is called--comprises an area of 37,400
+square miles, composed chiefly of rich black soil underlain by
+water-worn gravel--a significant fact for geologists. It is worthy of
+remark that the Magyar race is here found in its greatest purity. Here
+the followers of Arpad settled themselves to the congenial life of
+herdsmen. At the railway stations one generally sees a lot of these
+shepherds from the _puszta_, each with his axe-headed staff and
+sheepskin cloak, worn the woolly side outwards if the weather is hot.
+They can be scented from afar, and their scent, of all bad smells, is
+one of the worst. The fact is, the shepherds keep their bodies well
+covered with grease to prevent injurious effects from the very sudden
+changes of temperature so common in all Hungary. This smearing of the
+skin with grease is also a defence against insects, which seems
+probable, if insects have noses to be offended.
+
+Nowhere does the intrusion of modern art and its appliances strike one
+more curiously by force of contrast than in the wilder parts of Hungary.
+Just outside the railway station life and manners are what they were two
+centuries ago, and yet here are the grappling-irons of civilisation. No
+doubt a change will come to all this substratum of humanity, but it
+takes time. Even the railways in these wilder parts have not exactly
+settled themselves down to the inexorable limits of "time tables." It
+occurred on this very journey that we stopped at some small station, for
+no particular reason as far as I could see, for nobody got in or out;
+but the heat was intense, and so we just made a halt of nearly an hour.
+I could not make out what was up at first, but looking out I saw the
+stokers, pokers, and engine-driver all calmly enjoying their pipes,
+seated on the footboard on the shady side of the train! Some one or two
+people remarked that the officials in this part of the world were lazy
+fellows, but the passengers generally appeared in no great hurry, and
+after a while the train moved on again. At several places on the line we
+passed luggage trains waiting on the siding for their turn to be sent on
+to Buda-Pest. In many of these open trucks we noticed a considerable
+number of those fine Podolian oxen, common in these parts, and lots of
+woolly-haired pigs, that look for all the world like sheep at a
+distance.
+
+The effect of tapping these out-lying districts is already producing its
+natural result; the cultivator finds a ready market for his produce, and
+the value of land is rising, and "_must_ rise in Hungary," says
+Professor Wrightson in his report on the agriculture of the
+Austro-Hungarian empire.[23]
+
+In approaching Debreczin we noticed frequent instances of the
+efflorescence of soda-salts upon the surface of the soil. This
+occurrence greatly impairs the fertility of some parts of the Alfoeld.
+Land drainage would probably cure this evil, but I do not fancy any
+serious experiments have been tried. Skill and labour have not yet been
+brought to bear on the greater part of the land in Hungary. It is a
+country where a vast deal has yet to be done, and such are the
+prejudices of the common people that improvements cannot be introduced
+at once and without some caution; in fact, the material conditions of
+the country itself and the climate necessitate considerable experience
+on the part of any foreigner who may settle in Hungary and think to
+import new fashions in agriculture.
+
+Stopping at Debreczin only long enough to get a little supper at the
+station restaurant, we pursued our journey through the night. I do not
+imagine that we lost much that was worthy of note owing to the darkness,
+for the line continues to traverse a sanely plain utterly devoid of good
+scenery. Towards morning we passed two important towns--namely, Nagy
+Karoly and Szathmar. The hitter is the seat of a Catholic bishop, and
+has no less than 19,000 inhabitants--a good-sized place for Hungary. In
+1711 the peace between the Austrians and Rakoczy was signed in this
+town. Not far from here are the celebrated gold, silver, and lead mines
+of Nagy Banya.
+
+We arrived at the junction station of Kiraly-haza early in the morning,
+and there learned the agreeable news that we must wait ten hours, though
+only a few miles from our destination. From this place there is a line
+to Satoralja-Uihely, a junction on the main line between Buda-Pest and
+Lemberg. The town of Kiraly-haza is situated in a wide valley bounded by
+high mountains. The plain is left far behind, and we are once more under
+the shadow of the Carpathians. The heat of the day was intense, and
+there was not much in the immediate neighbourhood to tempt us out in the
+broiling sun, so we just got through the time as best we could. The food
+was very bad and the wine execrable, an adulterated mixture not worthy
+of the name. This is a rare occurrence in Hungary, and it ought not to
+have been the case here, for there are good vineyards close to the town.
+
+It was getting towards evening before our train appeared, and when it
+stopped at the station as wild a looking crew turned out of the
+carriages as I ever remember to have seen. On inquiry I found that these
+people were Rusniacks. Their occupation at this time of the year is to
+convey rafts down the Theiss. It seems their work was done, and they
+were returning by train. After the halt of ten minutes, and when the
+passengers were resuming their seats, I found that these fellows were
+all crowded into some empty horse-boxes attached to the train. The
+officials treated them as if they were very little better than cattle.
+These people, with their shoeless feet encased in thongs of leather,
+with garments unconscious of the tailor's art, and in some instances
+regardless of the primary object of clothes as a human institution, were
+the most uncivilised of any I had yet seen in Hungary.
+
+These Rusniacks, or "Little Russians," as they are called, are tolerably
+numerous--not less than 470,000, according to statistical returns. They
+are to be found almost exclusively in the north-east of Hungary. They
+were fugitives in the old days from Russia, to whom they are intensely
+antagonistic, having probably suffered from her persecutions. In
+religion they are dissenters from the orthodox Greek Church,
+assimilating more with Roman Catholicism. These people are another
+variety in the strange mixture of races to be found in Hungary. It is
+thought, and it would seem probable, that the very fact of the military
+conscription will help to civilise these Rusniacks by drawing them out
+of their savage isolation in the wild valleys of the Marmaros Mountains.
+
+There are many peculiarities respecting the races inhabiting the
+northern parts of Hungary. It would be a great mistake to put the Slavs
+of the north in the same category with the Slavs of the south: the
+former are on far better terms with the Magyars; they are for the most
+part contented, hard-working people, not troubling themselves at all
+about Panslavism. The reason is not far to seek. The Slovacks, as they
+are called by way of distinction, numbering about two millions, do not
+belong to the Greek Church. The greater proportion are Roman Catholics,
+the rest Lutherans and Calvinists. Many of the Catholics are said to be
+descended from refugees who fled from the tyranny of the Greek Church in
+Polish Russia.
+
+After leaving Kiraly-haza we got into charming scenery. As we approached
+the Carpathians we passed through vast oak-forests, and here and there
+had a glimpse of the Theiss rushing along over its stony bed.
+Occasionally we caught sight of herds of buffaloes bathing in the river.
+It is difficult to imagine that these fierce-looking creatures, with
+their massive shaggy heads, can ever be tractable; yet they can be
+managed, though only by kindness--"the rod of correction they cannot
+bear." At length we reached the end of our railway journey. Marmaros
+Szigeth is the present terminus of the line, and I should say will very
+probably remain such; for the iron road would hardly meander through the
+denies and over the heights of the Carpathians, to descend into the
+sparsely-inhabited wilds of the Bukovina. We sought out the principal
+inn at Szigeth, a wretched place, with only one room and a single bed at
+our disposal.
+
+My friend took possession of the bed at my request, for I told him I was
+quite independent of the luxury, having provided myself before I left
+England with an excellent hammock made of twine. I had learned to sleep
+in these contrivances during my naval volunteer days, but the order to
+"sling hammocks" would not have been easy to obey under the present
+circumstances. I was forced to put my screws in the floor and hang my
+net over some heavy furniture; but when I got in, the table that I had
+chiefly depended upon gave way with a crash, and I found myself on the
+floor. My friend laughed heartily; he had never seen a hammock before,
+and, spite of my representations, I do not think he was properly
+impressed by the great utility of the invention. Of course I was not to
+be foiled, so I cast about for another method of "fixing." I tried
+several dodges, but nothing answered exactly; something always gave way
+after a few minutes of repose--either I came down with a bump, or some
+abominable, ramshackle chest of drawers got over-turned.
+
+Now my friend was very tired and sleepy, and desired nothing so much as
+a little repose. My experiments ceased to interest him, and the noise
+caused by my repeated misfortunes irritated him. A large-minded man
+would have admired my tenacity of purpose, but he did not. One can never
+tell what people are till we travel with them. In a tone of mingled
+solicitude and irritation he offered to vacate his bed in my favour. He
+declared he would willingly lie on the hard floor, or indeed, if I would
+only consent to take his place, he would sit bolt upright in a chair
+through the livelong night.
+
+"I will do anything," he added piteously, "if you will only be quiet
+and not try to hang yourself any more in that horrible netting."
+
+I would not hear of my friend leaving his bed, and after one or two more
+mischances self and hammock were suspended for the night at an angle a
+trifle too low for the head. Except for the honour and glory of the
+thing, perhaps I might have slept as well on the floor; but one does not
+carry a patent contrivance all across Europe to be balked of its use
+after all.
+
+My friend woke me once during the night by shaking me roughly. He said I
+had nightmare, and made "such a devil of a row that he could not sleep."
+I have some dreamy recollection of finding myself in a London
+drawing-room in the inexpressibly scanty garments of a Rusniack, and
+when I turned to leave in all decent haste I found the way barred by an
+insolent fellow with the head of a buffalo bull. When I awoke in the
+early morning I found my friend already dressed and rather sulky. He
+observed that he had never met a man so addicted to nightmare as myself,
+adding, that another time if I must sleep in my hammock, it would be
+better to see that the head was higher than the feet.
+
+"It does not make any difference to me," I replied cheerfully, "I am as
+fresh as a lark."
+
+There was no time for further discussion, for our breakfast was ready (a
+very bad breakfast it was, too), and the vehicle we had chartered the
+night before was also waiting to convey us some miles into the interior
+of the country, to the soda manufactory at Boeska. On our way we passed
+through the village of Karasconfalu, inhabited entirely by Polish Jews.
+The dirt and squalor of this place beggar description. The dwellings are
+not houses, but are simply holes burrowed in the sandbanks, with an
+upright stone set up in front to represent a door; windows and chimneys
+are unknown. If it were not for a few erections more like ordinary human
+habitations, the place might have passed for a gigantic rabbit-warren.
+As we drove through we saw some of the villagers engaged in slaughtering
+calves and sheep in the middle of the road, the blood running down into
+a self-made gutter; it was a sickening sight. The people themselves have
+a most peculiar physiognomy, especially the men, who in addition to long
+beards wear corkscrew ringlets, which give them a very odd appearance.
+Their principal garment is a kind of long brown dressing-gown, which in
+its filthy grimness suits the wearer down to the ground. The feet are
+bound up in thongs of leather. The shoemaker's trade is apparently
+unknown in these parts. The inhabitants of this delightful village have
+the reputation of being a set of born cheats and swindlers; if it is
+true, then certainly the moral is plain, that dishonesty is not a
+thriving trade. The fact is, being all of one sort, the profession is
+overcrowded, and the result is that the sharpest amongst them emigrate,
+or rather I should say go farther a-field to exercise their craft. I am
+told that many of the low Jews, who make themselves a byword and a
+reproach by their practices of cheating and usury throughout Hungary,
+may be traced back to this foul nest in the Marmaros Mountains. It would
+be well for the credit of the Jewish community in Hungary, as well as
+elsewhere, if something were done to raise these people out of the utter
+degradation which surrounds them from their birth.
+
+Not far beyond Karasconfalu we came upon Boeska, situated in the midst
+of the most beautiful and romantic scenery, not at all suggestive of the
+neighbourhood of a chemical manufactory. Putting up at the house of the
+manager of the works, we remained here two or three days, during which
+time we made some excursions into the heart of the mountains. One of our
+drives took us some miles along the side of the beautiful river Theiss,
+which though a proverbial sluggard when it reaches the plain, is here a
+swift and impetuous stream. Our object was to see the timber-rafts pass
+over the rapids; it was a very exciting scene, and as this was a
+favourable season, owing to the state of the river, we came in just at
+the right time. The Rusniacks--the people generally employed in this
+perilous work--certainly display great skill and coolness in the
+management of their ticklish craft. If by any mischance the timbers come
+in contact with the rocks, then the danger is extreme; and hardly a year
+passes that some of the poor fellows do not get carried away in the
+swirling waters, which have made for themselves deep and treacherous
+holes in this part of the stream.
+
+The pine-trees in the forests of the Marmaros Mountains are simply
+magnificent; the birch and oak are hardly less remarkable. It is really
+grievous to see the amount of ruthless destruction which is allowed to
+go on in these valuable forests, more especially in those belonging to
+the State. It is the old story--the Rusniack herdsman, to get herbage
+for his cattle, will set fire to the forest, and perhaps burn some
+hundreds of acres of standing timber. The result brings very little good
+to himself; but the blackened trunks of thousands of half-burned trees
+bear witness to the peasant's inveterate love of waste, and the utter
+inefficiency of the forest laws, or rather of their administration.
+Throughout Hungary it is the same, the power of the law does not make
+itself felt in the remoter provinces. For example, in the year 1877
+there have been scores of incendiary fires in the county of Zemplin;
+homesteads, hayricks, and woods have suffered, and yet punishment rarely
+falls on the offender. Government should look to this, for lawlessness
+is a most infectious disorder.
+
+The Marmaros district is chiefly known for the salt mines, which have
+been worked here for centuries. Salt is a Government monopoly in
+Hungary, and is sold at the high price of five florins the
+hundredweight, forming, in fact, an important source of revenue. The
+mines at Slatina, not far from Szigeth, are well worth a visit. One of
+the chambers is of immense size; in this a pyramid of salt is left
+untouched, and by its downward growth marks the progress of excavation.
+At the foot of this pyramid is a little altar, where every year, on the
+3d of March, mass is celebrated with great ceremony, that being the day
+of Kunigunde, the patron saint of the mines.
+
+One of our expeditions was to visit the mines at Ronasick. Here, too, is
+an enormous cave with a dome-shaped roof, one hundred and fifty feet
+above the surface of the water, which covers the floor to the amazing
+depth, it is said, of three hundred feet. Part of the visitor's
+programme is to be paddled about on this subterranean lake. We embarked
+on a raft slowly propelled by rowers; a cresset fire burning brightly at
+the prow of our craft cast strange lights and shadows on the black
+waters, added to which the shimmering reflection of the white-ribbed
+walls had a very singular effect. But the sensation was still more weird
+when we saw other mystic forms appearing from out the black darkness;
+first a mere speck of red light was visible, till nearing us we beheld
+other boats freighted with grim-looking figures that glided past into
+the further darkness. These phantom-like forms, steering their rafts
+through the black and silent waters, were grotesquely lit up from time
+to time by the pulsating red firelight. It might have been a scene from
+Dante's 'Inferno'!
+
+It was with the sense of escape from a living tomb that we emerged from
+the depths below into the upper air, and here awaited us a sight never
+to be forgotten, more especially for its singular contrast to the horrid
+gloom of the under-world. Here, above ground, in the blessed free
+expanse of earth and sky, we beheld the heavens ablaze with all the
+intensest glory of a magnificent sunset. One's soul in deep gladness
+drank in the ineffable loveliness of nature, as if athirst for the
+beauty of light and life.
+
+[Footnote 23: Journal of Agricultural Society, vol. x. Part xi. No.
+xx.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIV.
+
+     The Tokay district--Visit at Schloss G------Wild-boar
+     hunting--Incidents of the chase.
+
+
+My first expedition to the Tokay district was in the winter; I was then
+the guest of Baron V----, who has a charming chateau, surrounded by an
+English garden, in this celebrated place of vineyards.
+
+In the winter there is a very fair amount of good sport in this part of
+Hungary. Sometimes one is enabled to go out hare-shooting in sledges; of
+course the horses' bells are removed on these occasions. Hares are not
+preserved in the Tokay district, but they are pretty numerous. I myself
+shot fifty-four in the space of a few weeks, which is nothing compared
+to an English battue of a single day; but then this is sport, and there
+is immense pleasure in dashing right across country behind a pair of
+fleet horses, thinking yourself well repaid if you bag a couple or three
+hares in the afternoon's scamper. For wolf and wild-boar hunting one
+must penetrate into the forests which extend in the rear of the
+southern slopes of this Tokay range of hills.
+
+During my stay at G---- a party was got up for a few days' shooting in
+the interior. On this occasion we were to shoot in Baron Beust's
+forests, which extend over an area of about forty miles square; as it
+may be supposed, the sport is not the easy affair it is in the
+well-stocked parks of Bohemia.
+
+There was not snow enough for sledging, so we drove to the rendezvous on
+wheels, using the springless carts of the country, the roads being far
+too rough for ordinary carriages. Wrapped in our _bundas_, we were proof
+against the cold. The wolf-skin collar turned up rises above the head
+and forms a capital protection; and very necessary it was on this
+occasion, for there was a keen cutting wind the day we started.
+
+I carried a smooth-bore breechloader charged with the largest buck-shot
+in one barrel and with a bullet in the other. In Hungary the forests are
+usually so thick that one scarcely ever fires at a long range, and heavy
+shot at a short distance in a thicket is better than a bullet. After
+driving in a break-neck fashion for about two hours we arrived at the
+river Bodrog, a tributary of the Theiss. Nearly every winter the country
+hereabouts is under water; I remember once seeing it when there was all
+the appearance of an extensive inland sea. Sometimes the inundations are
+disastrous, but the ordinary flood is an accepted event, and no damage
+accrues beyond the prevalence of marsh fever in April and May, when the
+water recedes. This part of the country offers first-rate
+wildfowl-shooting in the season.
+
+Everywhere in Hungary the different races are strangely mixed up
+together: the Tokay Hegyalia, it is true, is chiefly peopled by Magyars,
+and the language is said to be the purest Magyar spoken anywhere; but
+there are Slavs and Jews amongst them, and our drive of twenty miles
+brought us into an area where the Slavs predominate. The difference of
+these races is very marked: the one, fair complexioned and blue eyed;
+the Magyar, dark, almost swarthy amongst the lower classes. At
+Olasz-Liszka, a small town within the Tokay district, there is an
+Italian colony, as the name Olasz (Italian) would imply. As long ago as
+the days of Bela II. this place was peopled by Italian immigrants from
+the neighbourhood of Venice, invited hither by the king, who greatly
+encouraged the cultivation of the vine.
+
+Go where you will in this country, there is a Babel of tongues. In this
+instance our special coachman was a Bohemian, speaking his own
+language--a very different dialect from the Slovacks who were the
+"beaters" for our hunt. The gamekeepers, or rather the foresters (for
+the game is of secondary consideration), were all Magyars. Their
+language, as we know, bears no affinity to any of the rest. The marvel
+is that the world gets on at all down here. The gentlemen of our party
+spoke together indifferently German, French, and English.
+
+It is curious to hear the peasant come out with, "Why the Tartar are you
+doing this?" for an angry expletive. It is a relic of the old troubled
+times when the country suffered from the frequent depredations of Turks
+and Tartars. The Tokay district, say the chronicles, was fearfully
+harassed by the Turks as late as 1678.
+
+It is worth while recalling a contemporaneous fact. In 1529 the crescent
+had been substituted for the cross on the Cathedral of Vienna to
+propitiate the Turks, and it was not till 1683 that the symbol of the
+dreaded Moslem was removed. When the Hungarians ceased to fear the Turk,
+they ceased to hate him; and since 1848 they remember only the generous
+hospitality of the Porte, and the cruel aggressions and treachery of the
+Russians. The Slav has a longer memory, for to this day he repeats the
+saying, "Where the Turk comes, there no grass grows."
+
+When we arrived at our destination our appetites were far too keenly set
+to think about the Eastern Question, and right glad were we to see
+active preparations for supper. The national dishes, the _gulyas hus_
+and the _paprika handl_, were produced amongst a number of other good
+things, such as roast hare. You get to like the _paprika_, or red
+pepper, very much. I wonder it is not introduced into English cookery,
+it makes such a pretty-coloured gravy. If the traveller finds himself
+attacked by marsh fever, and should chance to be without quinine (a
+great mistake, by the way), let him substitute a spoonful of _paprika_
+mixed with a little red wine, repeating the dose every four hours if
+necessary. While smoking our peace-pipes after supper, one of the
+keepers came in to announce the welcome fact that it was snowing hard;
+fresh-lain snow would materially increase our chances of tracking the
+wild-boar.
+
+Next morning when we started the weather had somewhat cleared, which was
+just as well, seeing we had to walk two or three miles to our first
+battue. Arrived at the rendezvous, we found the "beaters" waiting for
+us. They were a wild-looking crew were those Slovacks, with shaggy coats
+of black sheepskin, and in their hands the usual long staff with the axe
+at one end. Notwithstanding their uncouth appearance, later experience
+has shown me that the Slovacks, as a rule, are patient, hard-working
+people.
+
+The forest where we were consisted entirely of beech and oak. The acorns
+attract the wild-boar, which have increased in a very remarkable manner
+in this locality. I was told that twenty years ago there were no
+wild-boar in these forests, while now there are hundreds. This seems
+odd, for the oak-trees are pretty well as old as the hills, and offered
+the same temptation in the way of food formerly as now. In fact the
+increase of the wild-boar is a serious nuisance to the vine-grower, for
+they tramp across to the southern hill-slopes, and occasionally make
+raids on the vineyards, devouring the grapes with unparalleled
+greediness, and what is still worse, they will sometimes plough up and
+destroy a whole plot of carefully-tended vineyard.
+
+Formerly there were many deer in these forests, but now there are only a
+few roedeer. We saw no traces of wolves on this occasion, but there are
+plenty in this part of the country.
+
+We were only ten guns, and were soon posted each man in his proper
+position waiting for the _schwarzwild_, as the Germans say; but, alas!
+nothing appeared till the beaters themselves came in sight. So we had to
+organise battue number two. The beaters walk quietly forward, tapping
+the trees now and then. This is quite noise enough for the purpose of
+rousing the game; if they shouted or made too much row, the game would
+get wild and scared.
+
+In the next battue I had hardly been five minutes at my post when I
+heard from behind the breaking of dead branches, as of some animal
+advancing slowly. It was a fine buck which made his appearance, but he
+scented me and made off. Again about a hundred yards off I got a glimpse
+of him between the trees. I fired with effect. We found him afterwards
+about two hundred yards farther on, where he had fallen. It was very
+provoking; up to lunch-time we sighted no wild-boar, though we saw by
+the snow that they must have been about the hillside during the night.
+We had soon a good fire blazing, at which robber-steak was nicely
+cooked. I never enjoyed anything more. We washed down our repast with
+good Tokay.
+
+After luncheon we commenced work again. By this time we had advanced
+into the very heart of the forest. The smooth boles of the tall
+beech-trees looked grand in their winter nakedness, rising like columns
+from the white frost-bespangled ground. I took up my stand, gun in
+readiness, waiting for the tramp, the snort, or the grizzly dark form of
+the wild-boar, but nothing came to disturb the utter solitude of the
+scene.
+
+But hark! I hear shots fired repeatedly in the lower valley. I, too,
+begin to look out with quickened pulse, peering into the misty depths of
+the forest, and with ear alert for every sound, but all to no purpose.
+Nothing comes my way, though again I hear two more shots echo sharply in
+the narrow valley nearer to me than before. After the lapse of a few
+minutes the beaters came up, breaking through the dead branches of
+undercover. I knew now that my own chance was gone, but I was curious to
+know what had happened, and joining two of my friends whose "stand" had
+been near mine, we hurried down the valley to see what sport had turned
+up for the other guns. On inquiry it appeared that at least seventy
+wild-boars had passed close to one of our party, but the sight of so
+many at once had made his aim unsteady, and he only succeeded in
+wounding one of the number. The animal had dashed into the half-frozen
+stream at the bottom of the valley, and our friend had to reload and
+give him his final shot there.
+
+We formed one more battue, but nothing came of it, and it was already
+high time to return to our quarters, for the whole scene was growing dim
+in the wintry twilight. Some of the party, myself included, went by
+arrangement to the house of one of the foresters. The good people, in
+their desire to be hospitable, gave us a warm reception. They had heated
+the rooms to such an extent that we were almost baked alive.
+
+The next morning we resumed our sport. During the first battue eight
+wild-boars were sighted. One was shot instantly; the others broke
+through the line of beaters, but in doing so a very unusual thing
+happened, for one of the foresters succeeded in killing a boar by a
+tremendous blow from his axe. We were very much surprised that the
+animal had come near enough, for as a rule they will not approach human
+beings except when wounded, and then they are most formidable
+assailants. I regret to say that one of our dogs was ripped up by one of
+this herd of eight.
+
+This was the beginning and end of our sport for the day. Our indifferent
+luck was to be accounted for from the fact of there being, comparatively
+speaking, not much snow.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXV.
+
+     Tokay vineyards--The vine-grower's difficulties--Geology of the
+     Hegyalia--The Pope's compliment to the wine of Tallya--Towns of the
+     Hegyalia--Farming--System of wages at harvest--The different sorts
+     of Tokay wine.
+
+
+The vintage is the season of all others for Tokay; in former days it was
+a very gay affair, for then every noble family in Hungary, especially
+the bishops, had vineyards in the Hegyalia, and the magnates came to the
+vintage with large retinues of servants and horses; and feasting and
+hospitality were the order of the day. In the good old times every
+important event in the family was celebrated by much drinking of Tokay,
+but in those degenerate days other fashions prevail. Before their
+kingdom was dismembered the Poles were the best customers for Tokay
+wine, but they are too poor now to have such luxuries; added to this,
+Russia has for nearly a century past laid an almost prohibitive duty on
+Hungarian wine. The fiscal impositions of Austria have also weighed
+heavily on Hungary's productions. At present North Germany and
+Scandinavia are amongst the most ready purchasers of Tokay; and England
+is beginning to appreciate the "Szamarodni" or "dry Tokay," remarkable
+for the absence of all deleterious sweetness.
+
+In good years the vintage of Tokay may be estimated at something like
+150,000 _eimers_, an _eimer_ being about two and a half gallons; but a
+really good year is the exception, not the rule. For three years (since
+1874) the vintages have all been below the average. The season of 1876
+was a complete failure; a disastrous frost on the 19th of May in that
+year completely destroyed the hopes and prospects of the vine-grower.
+Indeed he has a trying life of it, for his hopes go up and down with the
+barometer. If his vines escape the much-dreaded May frosts, there is a
+risk that the summer may be too wet for the grapes, which love sunshine.
+Then, again, in the hottest summers there are violent hail-storms, and
+in half an hour he may see his promising crop beaten to the ground. It
+has been well remarked that "the weather seems to have no control over
+itself in Hungary."
+
+The vine-grower's troubles do not end when the vintage is successfully
+over. Tokay is a troublesome wine in respect to fermentation; it
+requires three years before it can travel, and even when these critical
+years are over, the wine will sometimes get "sick" in the spring--at
+the identical time when the sap rises in the living plant.
+
+The unique quality of the Tokay is due to the soil, and perhaps to some
+other conditions; but not to the peculiarity of the grape, for, as a
+matter of fact, they grow a variety of sorts. The cultivation of the
+vine appears to be of great antiquity in this part of the world. The
+introduction of the plant is attributed to the inevitable Phoenician;
+but, treading on more assured historic ground, we find that King Bela
+IV., in the thirteenth century, caused new kinds of grapes to be
+imported from Italy, and brought about an improvement generally in the
+culture of the vine.
+
+But to return to the question of the soil. The Tokay Eperies group of
+hills is one of several well-defined groups of volcanic rocks that exist
+in Hungary and Transylvania. In the Tokay district the formations are
+partly eruptive, partly sedimentary, but nowhere older than the Tertiary
+period, say the geologists. The Hegyalia (which means "mountain-slopes"
+in the Magyar tongue) forms the southern spur of the extended volcanic
+region, composed of trachyte and rhyolithe, beginning at Eperies and
+terminating in the conical hill of Tokay, which protrudes itself so
+singularly into the Alfoeld, or plain.
+
+But the vine-growing district does not end at Tokay; it continues on
+the eastern slopes of the mountain range as far as Uihely, forming two
+sides of an irregular triangle, and the total length, say from Szanto in
+the west to Tokay, and from Tokay to Uihely, being about thirty-eight
+miles.
+
+As a matter of fact, Tokay, which gives its name to the wine, does not
+produce the best vintage; other localities are more esteemed. Tallya,
+for example, situated a few miles east of Szanto, has long been
+renowned. As early as the sixteenth century the excellence of the wine
+from this district was acknowledged by infallible authority. It appears
+that during the sitting of the Council of Trent, wines were produced
+from all parts for the delectation of the holy fathers. George
+Draskovics, the Bishop of Fuenfkirchen, brought some of his celebrated
+vintage, and presenting a glass of it to the Pope, observed that it was
+_Tallya_ wine. Whereupon his Holiness pronounced it to be nectar,
+surpassing all other wines, exclaiming with ready wit, "Summum
+Pontificum _talia_ vina decent." This place, so happily distinguished by
+Papal wit, is pleasantly situated on the side of the hill; it possesses
+about 2100 acres of vineyards.
+
+The places in the Hegyalia are all called towns, though in reality they
+are not much more than large villages. Tokay has 4000 inhabitants; it
+is at the foot of the hill, close to the junction of the Theiss and the
+Bodrog; a ruined castle forms a picturesque object in the foreground,
+and beyond is the far-stretching plain. Professor Judd says[24] that at
+one period of their history "the volcanic islands of Hungary must have
+been very similar in appearance to those of the Grecian Archipelago."
+Looking at the conical-shaped hill of Tokay, and the other
+configurations of the range, it is quite easy to take in the idea, and
+under certain atmospheric conditions the great plain very closely
+resembles an inland sea.
+
+At Tokay the Theiss becomes navigable for steamers, but the circuitous
+course of the river prevents much traffic, more especially since the
+extension of railways. The next place is Tarczal, and here the Emperor
+of Austria has some fine vineyards. Some people have an idea that all
+the wine grown in the whole district is Imperial Tokay, and that the
+vineyards themselves, one and all, are imperial property. This is very
+far from being the case; in fact, since 1848, the peasant proprietors
+hold more largely than any other class. The easy transfer of land
+facilitates the purchase of small lots, and the result is that every
+peasant in the Hegyalia tries to possess himself of an acre or two, or
+even half an acre of vineyard. The cultivation seems to pay them well;
+but a succession of bad seasons must be very trying, for the vineyards
+cannot be neglected be the year good or bad.
+
+At Zombar, a village in this locality, there is a good instance of what
+can be got out of reclaimed land; it was formerly under water for the
+greater portion of the year. The soil is so rich in decayed vegetable
+matter as to be almost black, and now grows excellent crops of tobacco
+and Indian corn. The country north-east of Tokay is certainly the most
+picturesque side, there is more foliage, and there is also water.
+
+The first time I drove through Bodrog-Keresztur, which is on this side,
+I thought that, notwithstanding the pretty country, I had never seen so
+desolate a place. The town was once famed for its markets, but the
+railways have changed all this; almost every other house is a ruin, and
+large trees may be seen growing between the walls.
+
+In the last century a company of Russian soldiers were stationed here
+for the purpose of buying Tokay wine for the Russian Court.
+
+One of the prettiest little places in the Hegyalia is Erdoe-Benye; it is
+off the main road, right in amongst the hills. It boasts the largest
+wine-cellar in the whole district; it has twenty-two ramifications at
+two different levels, the whole being cut out of the solid rock; it is
+more like a subterranean labyrinth than a cellar. This place was
+formerly the property of the renowned family of Rakoczy, who played no
+mean part in Hungarian history. Not far from Erdoe-Benye are
+mineral-water baths, romantically situated in the oak-forest.
+
+Saros Patak and Uihely are the two most noteworthy towns in the
+north-eastern side of the Tokay triangle. The first named has a
+Calvinist college of some considerable reputation, a library of 24,000
+volumes, a printing-press, and a botanical garden. Uihely is the county
+town of Zemplin. An agricultural show was held here last spring (1877),
+which I attended. Our English-made agricultural implements were very
+much to the fore on this occasion. Some people complain of these
+machines on the score of their getting out of order rather easily, and
+of the immense difficulty of having them repaired in the country. This
+objection, I have heard, does not apply alike to all the English makers.
+At this show there were some new kinds of wine-presses which attracted a
+good deal of attention; before long no doubt not a few changes will be
+effected in the process of wine-making in Tokay. Considering that
+Hungary holds the third rank in Europe as a wine-producing country, the
+whole question of the manipulation of wine is a very important one for
+her.
+
+Amongst the live stock at this show I noticed some very fine merino
+sheep. In Hungary the wool-producing quality is everything in sheep, as
+mutton has hardly any value. This was only a country show, and the
+horses, from an Englishman's point of view, were not worth looking at;
+but there are plenty of fine horses in Hungary. The Government has been
+at immense pains to improve the breed by introducing English and Arabian
+sires. For practical purposes the native breed must not be decried; the
+Hungarian horse, though small, has many excellent qualities. For
+ordinary animals the prices are very low, which fact does not encourage
+the peasants to take much care of the foals. On this occasion I bought a
+couple of horses for farming purposes; the two only cost me about L11.
+
+With regard to farming, our English notions of "high farming" will not
+do in Hungary; what is called the "extensive system" pays best. For
+instance, if I were already farming, and had some disposable capital at
+hand, I should find it pay me better to invest in buying more land than
+in trying to increase the produce of what I had already in hand. After
+some practical experience in the country, I have no hesitation in saying
+that Hungary offers a good field for the employment of English capital.
+
+Vineyards, on the other hand, can only be worked "intensively." Nothing
+requires more care and attention. To begin with, the aspect of the vine
+garden influences the quality of the wine immensely. Then there is the
+soil. The best is the plastic clay (_nyirok_), which appears to be the
+product of the direct chemical decomposition of volcanic rock. This clay
+absorbs water but very slowly, and is, in short, the most favourable to
+the growth of the vine. As the vines are mostly on the steep hillsides,
+low walls are built to prevent the earth from being washed away. In the
+early spring one of the first things to be done is to repair the
+inevitable damage done by the winter rain or snow to these walls, and to
+clear the ditches, which are carefully constructed to carry off the
+excess of water. I should observe that in the autumn, soon after the
+vintage, the earth is heaped up round the vines to protect them from the
+intense cold which prevails here, and directly the spring comes, one
+must open up the vines again. In Tokay the vines are never trellised,
+they are disposed irregularly, not even in rows--the better to escape
+the denudation of their roots by rain. Each vine is supported by an oak
+stick, which, removed in autumn, is replaced in spring after the
+process of pruning. When the young shoots are long enough they are bound
+to these sticks, and are not allowed to grow beyond them.
+
+No less than three times during the summer the earth should be dug up
+round the roots of the vine, and it is very desirable to get the second
+digging over before the harvest, for when harvest has once commenced it
+is impossible to get labourers at any price. The harvest operations
+generally begin at the end of June, and last six weeks. In the part of
+Hungary of which I am now speaking the labourer gets a certain
+proportion of the harvest. In this district he has every eleventh stack
+of corn, and as they are fed as well during the time, a man and his wife
+can generally earn enough corn for the whole year. The summers are
+intensely hot, and the work in consequence very fatiguing. The poor
+fellows are often stricken with fever, the result, in some cases, of
+their own imprudence in eating water-melons to excess.
+
+It is not till the third or fourth week in October that the vintage is
+to be looked for. It is not the abundance of grapes that makes a good
+year; the test is the amount of dried grapes, for it is to these brown
+withered-looking berries that the unique character of the-wine is due.
+If the season is favourable, the over-ripe grapes crack in September,
+when the watery particles evaporate, leaving the rasin-like grape with
+its undissipated saccharine matter.
+
+In order to make "Essenz," these dry grapes are separated from the rest,
+placed in tubs with holes perforated at the bottom. The juice is allowed
+to squeeze out by the mere weight of the fruit into a vessel placed
+beneath. After several years' keeping this liquid becomes a drinkable
+wine, but of course it is always very costly. This is really only a
+liqueur. The wine locally called "Ausbruch" is the more generally known
+sweet Tokay, a delicious wine, but also very expensive. It is said to
+possess wonderfully restorative properties in sickness and in advanced
+age.
+
+Another quality, differently treated, but of the same vintage, is called
+"Szamarodni," now known in the English market as "dry Tokay." This dry
+wine preserves the bouquet and strength of the ordinary Tokay, but it is
+absolutely without any appreciable "sweetness." In order to produce
+Szamarodni the dry grapes must not be separated from the others. The
+proportion of alcohol is from twelve to fifteen per cent.
+
+When first I saw the vintage in the Tokay district, I was greatly
+interested in the novelty of the whole scene. It is well worth the
+stranger's while to turn aside from the beaten track and join for once
+in this characteristic Hungarian festivity, for nowhere is the Magyar
+more at home than in the vine-growing Hegyalia.
+
+[Footnote 24: Ancient Volcanoes of Hungary.]
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+MUIR AND PATERSON, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
+
+
+[Illustration: Map of the BANAT and TRANSYLVANIA with Mr. Crosse's
+Route]
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Round About the Carpathians, by Andrew F. Crosse
+
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