diff options
Diffstat (limited to '17624.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 17624.txt | 11848 |
1 files changed, 11848 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/17624.txt b/17624.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..840abd1 --- /dev/null +++ b/17624.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11848 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and +Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three, by Thomas Frognall Dibdin + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three + +Author: Thomas Frognall Dibdin + +Release Date: January 29, 2006 [EBook #17624] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + + + + +A + +BIBLIOGRAPHICAL + +Antiquarian + +AND + +PICTURESQUE TOUR. + + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE + +Shakspeare Press + + +[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, NUREMBERG] + + +A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY. + +BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D. + +MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT. + +SECOND EDITION. + +VOLUME III. + + +[Illustration: Logo] + + +DEI OMNIA PLENA. + + +LONDON: + +PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR. + +1829. + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME III. + + + + + + +CONTENTS + + +VOLUME III. + + +LETTER I. + +Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweighaeuser. STUTTGART. +The Public Library. The Royal Library, 1 + +LETTER II. + +The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation. Dannecker the Sculptor. +Environs of Stuttgart, 43 + +LETTER III. + +Departure from Stuttgart. ULM. AUGSBOURG. +The Picture Gallery at Augsbourg, 55 + +LETTER IV. + +AUGSBOURG. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture. +Population. Trade. The Public Library, 91 + +LETTER V. + +MUNICH. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery. +The Public Library, 105 + +LETTER VI. Further Book-Acquisitions. Society. +The Arts, 149 + +LETTER VII. + +Freysing. Landshut. Altoeting. Salzburg. +The Monastery of St. Peter, 169 + +LETTER VIII. + +Salzburg to Chremsminster. The Lake Gmunden. +The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 206 + + +LETTER IX. + +The Monasteries of St. Florian, Moelk, and Goettwic, 232 + + +LETTER X. + +VIENNA. Imperial Library. Illuminated MSS. and +early printed Books, 279 + + +LETTER XI. + +Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Convents. Palaces. +Theatres. The Prater. The Emperor's Private Library. Collection of Duke +Albert. Suburbs. Monastery of Closterneuburg. Departure from +Vienna, 335 + + +SUPPLEMENT. + +Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim, 407 + + + + + + +LETTER I. + + +STRASBOURG TO STUTTGART. BADEN. THE ELDER SCHWEIGHAEUSER. STUTTGART. THE +PUBLIC LIBRARY. THE ROYAL LIBRARY. + + +_Stuttgart, Poste Royale, August 4, 1818._ + + +Within forty-eight hours of the conclusion of my last, I had passed the +broad and rapidly-flowing Rhine. Having taken leave of all my hospitable +acquaintances at Strasbourg, I left the _Hotel de l'Esprit_ between five +and six in the afternoon--when the heat of the day had a little +subsided--with a pair of large, sleek, post horses; one of which was +bestrode by the postilion, in the red and yellow livery of the duchy of +Baden. + +Our first halting place, to change horses, was _Kehl_; but we had not +travelled a league on this side of the Rhine, ere we discovered a palpable +difference in the general appearance of the country. There was more +pasture-land. The houses were differently constructed, and were more +generally surrounded by tall trees. Our horses carried us somewhat fleetly +along a good, broad, and well-conditioned road. Nothing particularly +arrested our attention till we reached _Bischoffsheim, a la haute monte_; +where the general use of the German language soon taught us the value of +our laquais; who, from henceforth, will be often called by his baptismal +name of Charles. At Bischoffsheim, while fresh horses were being put to, I +went to look at the church; an humble edifice--but rather picturesquely +situated. In my way thither I passed, with surprise, a great number of +_Jews_ of both sexes; loitering in all directions. I learnt that this place +was the prescribed _limits_ of their peregrinations; and that they were not +suffered, by law, to travel beyond it: but whether this law restricted them +from entering Suabia, or Bavaria, I could not learn. I approached the +church, and with the aid of a good-natured verger, who happened luckily to +speak French, I was conducted all over the interior--which was sufficiently +neat. But the object of my peculiar astonishment was, that Jews, +Protestants, and Catholics, all flocked alike, and frequently, at the SAME +TIME, to exercise their particular forms of worship within this church!--a +circumstance, almost partaking of the felicity of an Utopian commonwealth. +I observed, indeed, a small crucifix upon the altar, which confirmed me in +the belief that the Lutheran worship, according to the form of the +Augsbourg confession, was practised here; and the verger told me there was +no other place of worship in the village. His information might be +deceitful or erroneous; but it is to the honour of his character that I +add, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble in shewing me the +church, he seemed to think it a point of conscience _not_ to receive it. +His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by saying, gently repelling +the hand which held the money, "jamais, jamais!" Is it thus, thought I to +myself, that "they order things in" Germany? + +The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left +_Bischoffsheim_, and turned from the high road on the left, leading to +Rastadt to take the right, for _Baden_. For the advantage of a nearer cut, +we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a league +in length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were abroad, this +surely was the hour and the place for a successful attack upon defenceless +travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe, +which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent were +equally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees, +that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftly +along. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age of +banditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be +"gone." We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the high +road; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet told +us (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended and +descended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge, +upon which I discerned a whole-length statue of _St. Francis_, (with the +infant Christ in his arms) we stopped, to the right, at the principal +hotel, of which I have forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or Le +Baron Cotta, a bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor. + +The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it was +impossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I have +also forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost entirely +filled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there was no +room for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in the open +street; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went immediately, and to +our joy found just accommodation sufficient. We saw the carriage safely put +into the remise, and retired to rest. The next morning, upon looking out of +window, every thing seemed to be faery land. I had scarcely ever before +viewed so beautiful a spot. I found the town of Baden perfectly surrounded +by six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills, of tapering forms, and of luxuriant +verdure. Thus, although compared with such an encircling belt of hills, +Baden may be said to lie in a hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, upon +elevated ground; commanding views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; of +temples, rustic benches, and detached buildings of a variety of +description. Every thing, in short, bespeaks nature improved by art; and +every thing announced that I was in a place frequented by the rich, the +fashionable, and the gay. + +I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable SCHWEIGHAEUSER, who +had retired here, for a few weeks, for the benefit of the waters--which +flow from _hot_ springs, and which are said to perform wonders. Rheumatism, +debility, ague, and I know not what disorders, receive their respective and +certain cures from bathing in these tepid waters. I found the Professor in +a lodging house, attached to the second hotel which we had visited on our +arrival. I sent up my name, with a letter of introduction which I had +received from his Son. I was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greek +scholar, and editor of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, I +beheld a figure advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall, +slim, but upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view, +severe countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied by +a clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse. The +Professor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly resembling her +brother, who had shewn me so much kindness at Strasbourg. She told me her +father was fast recovering strength; and the old gentleman, as well as his +daughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an invitation which we were +compelled to decline. + +On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate environs: +but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill; from which +the earliest (_Protestant_) congregation were about to depart--not before I +arrived in time to hear some excellently good vocal and instrumental music, +from the front seat of a transverse gallery. There was much in this church +which had an English air about it: but my attention was chiefly directed to +some bronze monuments towards the eastern extremity, near the altar; and +fenced off, if I remember rightly, by some rails from the nave and side +aisles. Of these monuments, the earliest is that of _Frederick, Bishop of +Treves_. He died in 1517, in his 59th year. The figure of him is recumbent: +with a mitre on his head, and a quilted mail for his apron. The body is +also protected, in parts, with plate armour. He wears a ring upon each of +the first three fingers of his right hand. It is an admirable piece of +workmanship: bold, sharp, correct, and striking in all its parts. Near this +episcopal monument is another, also of bronze, of a more imposing +character; namely, of _Leopold William Margrave or Duke of Baden_, who died +in 1671, and of the _Duchess_, his wife. The figure of Leopold, evidently a +striking portrait, is large, heavy, and ungracious; but that of his wife +makes ample amends--for a more beautifully expressive and interesting +bronze figure, has surely never been reared upon a monumental pedestal. She +is kneeling, and her hands are closed--in the act of prayer. The head is +gently turned aside, as well as inclined: the mouth is very beautiful, and +has an uncommon sweetness of expression: the hair, behind, is singular but +not inelegant. The following is a part of the inscription: "_Vivit post +funera virtus. Numinis hinc pietas conjugis inde trahit_." I would give +half a dozen ducats out of the supplemental supply of Madame Francs to have +a fine and faithful copy of this very graceful and interesting monumental +figure. As I left the church, the second (_Catholic_) congregation was +entering for divine worship. Meanwhile the heavens were "black with +clouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot and +a tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place with +rain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town, +without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, and +growling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows upon +the fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threatening +storm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance. + +The walks, lawns, and rustic benches about Baden, are singularly pretty and +convenient. Here was a play-house; there, a temple; yonder, a tavern, +whither the _Badenois_ resorted to enjoy their Sunday dinner. One of these +taverns was unusually large and convenient. I entered, as a stranger, to +look around me: and was instantly struck by the notes of the deepest-toned +bass voice I had ever heard--accompanied by some rapidly executed passages +upon the harp. These ceased--and the softer strains of a young female voice +succeeded. Yonder was a _master singer_[1]--as I deemed him--somewhat +stooping from age; with white hairs, but with a countenance strongly +characteristic of intellectual energy of _some_ kind. He was sitting in a +chair. By the side of him stood the young female, about fourteen, from +whose voice the strains, just heard, had proceeded. They sang alternately, +and afterwards together: the man holding down his head as he struck the +chords of his harp with a bold and vigorous hand. I learnt that they were +uncle and niece. I shall not readily forget the effect of these figures, or +of the songs which they sang; especially the sonorous notes of the +mastersinger, or minstrel. He had a voice of most extraordinary compass. I +quickly perceived that I was now in the land of music; but the guests +seemed to be better pleased with their food than with the songs of this old +bard, for he had scarcely received a half florin since I noticed him. + +Professor Schweighaeuser came to visit me at the appointed hour of six, in +order to have an evening stroll together to a convent, about two miles off, +which is considered to be the fashionable evening walk and ride of the +place. I shall long have reason to remember this walk; as well from the +instructive discourse of my venerable and deeply learned guide, as from the +beauty of the scenery and variety of the company. As the heat of the day +subsided, the company quitted their tables in great crowds. The mall was +full. Here was Eugene Beauharnois, drawn in a carriage by four black +steeds, with traces of an unusual length between the leaders and wheel +horses. A grand Duke was parading to the right: to the left, a Marchioness +was laughing _a pleine gorge_. Here walked a Count, and there rode a +General. Bavarians, Austrians, French, and English--intermixed with the +tradesmen of Baden, and the rustics of the adjacent country--all, +glittering in their gayest sabbath-attires, mingled in the throng, and +appeared to vie with each other in gaiety and loudness of talk. + +We gained a more private walk, within a long avenue of trees; where a small +fountain, playing in the midst of a grove of elm and beech, attracted the +attention both of the Professor and ourselves. "It is here," observed the +former--"where I love to come and read your favourite Thomson." He then +mentioned Pope, and quoted some verses from the opening of his Essay on +Man--and also declared his particular attachment to Young and Akenside. +"But our Shakspeare and Milton, Sir--what think you of these?" "They are +doubtless very great and superior to either: but if I were to say that I +understood them as well, I should say what would be an untruth: and nothing +is more disgusting than an affectation of knowing what you have, +comparatively, very little knowledge of." We continued our route towards +the convent, at a pretty brisk pace; with great surprise, on my part, at +the firm and rapid movements of the Professor. Having reached the convent, +we entered, and were admitted within the chapel. The nuns had just retired; +but we were shewn the partition of wood which screens them most effectually +from the inquisitive eyes of the rest of the congregation. We crossed a +shallow, but rapidly running brook, over which was only one plank, of the +ordinary width, to supply the place of a bridge. The venerable Professor +led the way--tripping along so lightly, and yet so surely, as to excite our +wonder. We then mounted the hill on the opposite side of the convent; where +there are spiral, and neatly trimmed, gravel walks, which afford the means +of an easy and pleasant ascent--but not altogether free from a few sharp +and steep turnings. From the summit of this hill, the Professor bade me +look around, and view a valley which was the pride of the neighbourhood, +and which was considered to have no superior in Suabia. It was certainly +very beautiful--luxuriant in pasture and woodland scenery, and surrounded +by hills crowned with interminable firs. + +As we descended, the clock of the convent struck eight, which was succeeded +by the tolling of the convent bell. After a day of oppressive heat, with a +lowering atmosphere threatening instant tempest, it was equally, grateful +and refreshing to witness a calm blue sky, chequered by light fleecy +clouds, which, as they seemed to be scarcely impelled along by the evening +breeze, were fringed in succession by the hues of a golden sun-set. The +darkening shadows of the trees added to the generally striking effect of +the scene. As we neared the town, I perceived several of the common people, +apparently female rustics, walking in couples, or in threes, with their +arms round each others necks, joining in some of the popular airs of their +country. The off-hand and dextrous manner in which they managed the _second +parts_, surprised and delighted me exceedingly. I expressed my +gratification to Mr. Schweighaeuser, who only smiled at my wondering +simplicity. "If _these_ delight you so much, what would you say to our +_professors_?"--observed he. "Possibly, I might not like them quite so +well," replied I. The professor pardoned such apparent heresy; and we +continued to approach the town. We were thirsty from our walk, and wished +to enter the tea gardens to partake of refreshment. Our guide became here +both our interpreter and best friend; for he insisted upon treating us. We +retired into a bocage, and partook of one of the most delicious bottles of +white wine which I ever remember to have tasted. He was urgent for a second +bottle; but I told him we were very sober Englishmen. + +In our way home, the discourse fell upon literature, and I was anxious to +obtain from our venerable companion an account of his early studies, and +partialities for the texts of such Greek authors as he had edited. He told +me that he was first put upon collations of Greek MSS. by our _Dr. +Musgrave_, for his edition of _Euripides_; and that he dated, from that +circumstance, his first and early love of classical research. This +attachment had increased upon him as he became older--had "grown with his +growth, and strengthened with his strength"--and had induced him to grapple +with the unsettled, and in parts difficult, texts of _Appian_, _Epictetus_, +and _Athenaeus_. He spoke with a modest confidence of his _Herodotus_--just +published: said that he was even then meditating a _second_ Latin version +of it: and observed that, for the more perfect execution of the one now +before the public, he had prepared himself by a diligent perusal of the +texts of the purer Latin historians. We had now entered the town, and it +was with regret that I was compelled to break off such interesting +conversation. In spite of the lateness of the hour (ten o'clock) and the +darkness of the evening, the worthy old Grecian would not suffer me to +accompany him home--although the route to his house was devious, and in +part precipitously steep, and the Professor's sight was not remarkably +good. When we parted, it was agreed that I should breakfast with him on the +morrow, at eight o'clock, as we intended to quit Baden at nine. + +The next morning, I was true to the hour. The Professor's coffee, bread, +butter, and eggs were excellent. Having requested our valet to settle every +thing at the inn, and bring the carriage and horses to the door of M. +Schweighaeuser by nine o'clock, I took a hearty leave of our amiable and +venerable host, accompanied with mutual regrets at the shortness of the +visit--and with a resolution to cultivate an acquaintance so heartily +began. As we got into the carriage, I held up his portrait which Mr. Lewis +had taken,[2] and told him "he would be neither out of _sight_ nor out of +_mind_" He smiled graciously--waved his right hand from the balcony upon +which he stood--and by half-past nine we found the town of Baden in our +rear. I must say that I never left a place, which had so many attractions, +with keener regret, and a more fixed determination to revisit it. That +"revisit" may possibly never arise; but I recommend all English travellers +to spend a week, at the least, at Baden--called emphatically, +_Baden-Baden_. The young may be gratified by the endless amusements of +society, in many of its most polished forms. The old may be delighted by +the contemplation of nature in one of her most picturesque aspects, as well +as invigorated by the waters which gush in boiling streams from her rocky +soil. + +I shall not detain you a minute upon the road from Baden to this place; +although we were nearly twenty-four hours so detained. _Rastadt_ and +_Karlsruhe_ are the only towns worth mentioning in the route. The former is +chiefly distinguished for its huge and tasteless castle or palace--a sort +of Versailles in miniature; and the latter is singularly pleasing to an +Englishman's eye, from the trim and neat appearance of the houses, walks, +and streets; which latter have the footpaths almost approaching to our +pavement. You enter and quit the town through an avenue of lofty and large +stemmed poplars, at least a mile long. The effect, although formal, is +pleasing. They were the loftiest poplars which I had ever beheld. The +churches, public buildings, gardens, and streets (of which _latter_ the +principal is a mile long) have all an air of tidiness and comfort; although +the very sight of them is sufficient to freeze the blood of an antiquary. +There is nothing, apparently, more than ninety-nine years old! We dined at +Karlsruhe, and slept at _Schweiberdingen_, one stage on this side of +Stuttgart: but for two or three stages preceding Stuttgart, we were +absolutely astonished at the multitude of apple-trees, laden, even to the +breaking down of the branches, with goodly fruit, just beginning to ripen: +and therefore glittering in alternate hues of red and yellow--all along the +road-side as well as in private gardens. The vine too was equally fruitful, +and equally promising of an abundant harvest. + +There was a drizzling rain when we entered THIS TOWN. We passed the long +range of royal stables to the right, and the royal palace to the left; the +latter, with the exception of a preposterously large gilt crown placed upon +the central part of a gilt cushion, in every respect worthy of a royal +residence. On, driving to the hotel of the _Roi d'Angleterre_, we found +every room and every bed occupied; and were advised to go to the place from +whence I now address you. But the _Roman Emperor_ is considered to be more +fashionable: that is to say, the charges are more extravagant. Another +time, however, I will visit neither the one nor the other; but take up my +quarters at the _King of Wirtemberg_--the neatest, cleanliest, and most +comfortable hotel in Stuttgart. In _this_ house there is too much noise and +bustle for a traveller whose nerves are liable to be affected. + +As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immediate environs +are composed of vine-covered hills, which, at this season of the year, have +an extremely picturesque appearance; but, in winter, when nothing but a +fallow-like looking earth is visible, the effect must be very dreary. This +town is large, and the streets--especially the _Koenings-strasse,_ or +King-Street,--are broad and generally well paved. The population may be +about twenty-two thousand. He who looks for antiquities, will be cruelly +disappointed; with the exception of the _Hotel de Ville_, which is placed +near a church, and more particularly of a _Crucifix_--there is little or +nothing to satisfy the hungry cravings of a thorough-bred English +Antiquary. The latter is of stone, of a rough grain, and sombre tint: and +the figures are of the size of life. They are partly mutilated; especially +the right leg of our Saviour, and the nose of St. John. Yet you will not +fail to distinguish, particularly from the folds of the drapery, that +precise character of art which marked the productions both of the chisel +and of the pencil in the first half of the sixteenth century. The Christ +is, throughout, even including the drapery, finely marked; and the attitude +of the Virgin, in looking up, has great expression. She embraces intensely +the foot of the cross; while her eyes and very soul seem to be as intensely +rivetted to her suffering and expiring Son. + +I was not long in introducing myself to M. LE BRET, the head Librarian; for +the purpose of gaining admission to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. That gentleman and +myself have not only met, but met frequently and cordially. Each interview +only increased the desire for a repetition of it: and the worthy and +well-informed Head Librarian has partaken of a trout and veal dinner with +me, and shared in one bottle of _Fremder Wein_, and in another of +_Ordinaerer Wein_.[3] We have, in short, become quite sociable; and I will +begin by affirming, that, a more thoroughly competent, active, and +honourable officer, for the situation which he occupies, his Majesty the +King of Wuertemberg does not possess in any nook, corner, or portion of his +Suabian dominions. I will prove what I say at the point of--my pen. Yet +more extraordinary intelligence. A "deed of note" has been performed; and +to make the mystery more mysterious, you are to know that I have paid my +respects to the King, at his late levee; the first which has taken place +since the accouchement of the Queen.[4] And what should be the _object_ of +this courtly visit? Truly, nothing more or less than to agitate a question +respecting the possession of _two old editions of Virgil_, printed in the +year 1471. But let me be methodical. + +When I parted from Lord Spencer on this "Bibliographical, Antiquarian and +Picturesque Tour," I was reminded by his Lordship of the second edition of +the _Virgil_ printed at Rome by _Sweynheym_ and _Pannartz_, and of another +edition, _printed by Adam_, in 1471, both being in the public library of +this place:--but, rather with a desire, than any seriously-grounded hope, +on his part of possessing them. Now, when we were running down upon +_Nancy_--as described in a recent despatch,[5] I said to Mr. Lewis, on +obtaining a view of what I supposed might be the Vosges, that, "behind the +Vosges was the _Rhine_, and on the other side of the Rhine was _Stuttgart!_ +and it was at Stuttgart that I should play my first trump-card in the +bibliographical pack which I carried about me." But all this seemed +mystery, or methodised madness, to my companion. However, I always bore his +Lordship's words in mind--and something as constantly told me that I should +gain possession of these long sought after treasures: but in fair and +honourable combat: such as beseemeth a true bibliographical Knight. + +Having proposed to visit the public library on the morrow--and to renew the +visit as often and as long as I pleased--I found, on my arrival, the worthy +Head Librarian, seriously occupied in a careful estimate of the value of +the Virgils in question--and holding up _Brunet's Manuel du Libraire_ in +his right hand--"Tenez, mon ami," exclaimed he, "vous voyez que la seconde +edition de Virgile, imprimee par vos amis Sweynheym et Pannartz, est encore +plus rare que la premiere." I replied that "c'etoit la fantasie seule de +l'auteur." However, he expressed himself ready to receive preliminaries, +which would be submitted to the Minister of the Interior, and by him--to +the King; for that the library was the exclusive property of his Majesty. +It was agreed, in the first instance, that the amount of the pecuniary +value of the two books should be given in modern books of our own country; +and I must do M. Le Bret the justice to say, that, having agreed upon the +probable pecuniary worth, he submitted a list of books, to be received in +exchange, which did equal honour to his liberality and judgment. + +I have said something about the _local_ of this Public Library, and of its +being situated in the market-place.[6] This market-place, or square, is in +the centre of the town; and it is the only part, in the immediate vicinity +of which the antiquarian's eye is cheered by a sight of the architecture of +the sixteenth century. It is in this immediate vicinity, that the _Hotel de +Ville_ is situated; a building, full of curious and interesting relics of +sculpture in wood and stone. Just before it, is a fountain of black marble, +where the women come to fetch water, and the cattle to drink. Walking in a +straight line with the front of the public library (which is at right +angles with the Hotel de Ville) you gain the best view of this Hotel, in +conjunction with the open space, or market place, and of the churches in +the distance. About this spot, Mr. Lewis fixed himself, with his pencil and +paper in hand, and produced a drawing from which I select the following +felicitous portion. + +[Illustration: Drawing] + +But to return to the Public Library. You are to know therefore, that The +Public Library of Stuttgart contains, in the whole, about 130,000 volumes. +Of these, there are not fewer than 8200 volumes relating to the _Sacred +Text_: exclusively of duplicates. This library has been indeed long +celebrated for its immense collection of _Bibles_. The late King of +Wuertemberg, but more particularly his father, was chiefly instrumental to +this extraordinary collection:--and yet, of the very earlier Latin +impressions, they want the _Mazarine_, or the _Editio Princeps_; and the +third volume of _Pfister's_ edition. Indeed the first volume of their copy +of the latter wants a leaf or two of prefatory matter. They have two copies +of the first _German Bible_, by _Mentelin_[7]--of which _one_ should be +disposed of, for the sake of contributing to the purchase of the earliest +edition of the Latin series. Each copy is in the original binding; but they +boast of having a _complete series of German Bibles_ before the time of +Luther; and of Luther's earliest impression of 1524, printed by Peypus, +they have a fine copy UPON VELLUM, like that in the Althorp Library; but I +think taller. Of Fust's Bible of 1462, there is but an indifferent and +cropt copy, upon paper; but of the _Polish Bible_ of 1563, there is a very +fine one, in the first oaken binding. Of _English Bibles_, there is no +edition before that of 1541, of which the copy happens to be imperfect. +They have a good large copy, in the original binding, of the _Sclavonian +Bible_ of 1581. Yet let me not dismiss this series of earlier Bibles, +printed in different languages, without noticing the copies of _Italian +versions_ of August and October 1471. Of the August impression, there is +unluckily only the second volume; but such _another_ second volume will not +probably be found in any public or private library in Europe. It is just as +if it had come fresh from the press of _Vindelin de Spira_, its printer. +Some of the capital letters are illuminated in the sweetest manner +possible. The leaves are white, unstained, and crackling; and the binding +is of wood. Of the _October_ impression, the copy is unequal: that is to +say, the first volume is cruelly cut, but the second is fine and tall. It +is in blue morocco binding. I must however add, in this biblical +department, that they possess a copy of our _Walton's Polyglott_ with the +_original dedication_ to King Charles II.; of the extreme rarity of which +M. Le Bret was ignorant.[8] + +I now come to the CLASSICS. Of course the _two Virgils_ of 1471 were the +first objects of my examination. The _Roman_ edition was badly bound in red +morocco; that of _Adam_ was in its original binding of wood. When I opened +the _latter_, it was impossible to conceal my gratification. I turned to M. +Le Bret, and then to the book--and to the Head Librarian, and to the +book--again and again! "How now, Mons. Le Bibliographe?" (exclaimed the +professor--for M. Le Bret is a Professor of belles-lettres), "I observe +that you are perfectly enchanted with what is before you?" There was no +denying the truth of the remark--and I could plainly discern that the +worthy Head Librarian was secretly enjoying the attestations of my +transport. "The more I look at these two volumes (replied I, very leisurely +and gravely,) the more I am persuaded that they will become the property of +Earl Spencer." M. Le Bret laughed aloud at the strangeness of this reply. I +proceeded to take a particular account of them.[9] + +Here is an imperfect copy of an edition of _Terence_, by _Reisinger_, in +folio; having only 130 leaves, and twenty-two lines in a full page.[10] It +is the first copy of this edition which I ever saw; and I am much deceived +if it be exceeded by any edition of the same author in rarity: and when I +say this, I am not unmindful of the Editio Princeps of it by +_Mentelin_--which happens _not_ to be here. There is, however, a +beautifully white copy of this latter printer's Editio Princeps of +_Valerius Maximus_; but not so tall as the largest of the two copies of +this same edition which I saw at Strasbourg. Of the _Offices of Cicero_, of +1466, there is rather a fine tall copy (within a quarter of an inch of ten +inches high) UPON VELLUM; in the original wooden binding. The first two or +three leaves have undergone a little martyrdom, by being scribbled upon. Of +J. de Spira's edition of the _Epistles of Cicero_, of 1469--having the +colophon on the recto of the last leaf--here is a fine, broad-margined +copy, which however ought to be cleansed from the stains which disfigure +it. I was grieved to see so indifferent a copy of the Edit. Prin. of +_Tacitus_: but rejoiced at beholding so large and beautiful a one (in its +original wooden binding) of the _Lucan_ of 1475, with the Commentary of +Omnibonus; printed as I conceive, by _I. de Colonia and M. de +Gherretzem_.[11] + +But I had nearly forgotten to acquaint you with a remarkably fine, +thick-leaved, crackling copy--yet perhaps somewhat cropt--of Cardinal +_Bessarion's Epistles_, printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz at Rome in 1469. +It is in old gilt edges, in a sort of binding of wood. + +I now come to the notice of a few choice and rare _Italian books_: and +first, for _Dante_. Here is probably the rarest of all the earlier editions +of this poet: that is to say, the edition printed at Naples by Tuppo, in +two columns, having forty-two lines in a full column. At the end of the +_Inferno_, we read "Gloria in excelsis Deo," in the gothic letter; the text +being uniformly roman. At the end of the _Purgatorio_: + + SOLI DEO GLORIA. + Erubescat Judeus Infelir. + +At the end of the _Paradiso_: DEO GRATIAS--followed by Tuppo's address to +Honofrius Carazolus of Naples. A register is on the recto of the following +and last leaf. This copy is large, but in a dreadfully loose, shattered, +and dingy state--in the original wooden binding. So precious an edition +should be instantly rebound. Here is the Dante of 1478, with the +_Commentary of Guido Terzago, printed at Milan in_ 1478, folio. The text of +the poet is in a fine, round, and legible roman type--that of the +commentator, in a small and disagreeable gothic character. + +_Petrarch_ shall follow. The rarest edition of him, which I have been able +to put my hand upon, is that printed at Bologna in 1476 with the commentary +of Franciscus Philelphus. Each sonnet is followed by its particular +comment. The type is a small roman, not very unlike the smallest of Ulric +Han, or Reisinger's usual type, and a full page-contains forty-one lines. + +Of _Boccaccio_, here is nothing which I could observe particularly worthy +of description, save the very rare edition of the _Nimphale_ of 1477, +printed by _Bruno Valla of Piedmont_, and _Thomaso of Alexandria._ A full +page has thirty-two lines. + +I shall conclude the account of the rarer books, which it was my chance to +examine in the Public Library of Stuttgart, with what ought perhaps, more +correctly, to have formed the earliest articles in this partial +catalogue:--I mean, the _Block Books_. Here is a remarkably beautiful, and +uncoloured copy of the first Latin edition of the _Speculum Humanae +Salvationis_. It _has_ been bound--although it be now unbound, and has been +unmercifully cut. As far as I can trust to my memory, the impressions of +the cuts in this copy are sharper and clearer than any which I have seen. +Of the _Apocalypse_, there is a copy of the second edition, wanting a leaf. +It is sound and clean, but coloured and cut. Unbound, but formerly bound. +Here is a late German edition of the _Ars Moriendi_, having thirty-four +lines on the first page. Of the _Historia Beatae Virginis_, here is a copy +of what I should consider to be the second Latin edition; precisely like a +German edition of the _Biblia Pauperum_, with the express date of +1470,--which is also here. The similarity is in the style of art and +character of the type, which latter has much of a _Bamberg_ cast about it. +But of the _Latin Biblia Pauperum_ here is a copy of the first edition, +very imperfect, and in wretched condition. And thus much, or rather thus +little, for _Block Books._ + +A word or two now for the MANUSCRIPTS--which, indeed, according to the +order usually observed in these Letters, should have preceded the +description of the printed books. I will begin with a _Psalter,_ in small +folio, which I should have almost the hardihood to pronounce of the +_tenth_--but certainly of the early part of the _eleventh_--century. The +text is executed in lower-case roman letters, large and round. It abounds +with illuminations, of about two inches in height, and six in +length--running horizontally, and embedded as it were in the text. The +figures are, therefore, necessarily small. Most of these illuminations, +have a greenish back-ground. The armour is generally in the Roman fashion: +the helmets being of a low conical form, and the shields having a large +knob in the centre. + +Next comes an _Evangelistarium_ "seculo undecimo aut circa annum +1100:--pertinuit ad Monasterium Gengensbachense in Germania, ut legitur in +margine primi folii." The preceding memorandum is written at the beginning +of the volume, but the inscription to which it alludes has been partly +destroyed--owing to the tools of a modern book-binder. The scription of +this old MS. is in a thick, lower case, roman letter. The illuminations are +interesting: especially that of the Scribe, at the beginning, who is +represented in a white and delicately ornamented gown, or roquelaure, with +gold, red, and blue borders, and a broad black border at bottom. The robe +should seem to be a monastic garment: but the figure is probably that of +St. Jerom. It is standing before an opened book. The head is shaved at top; +an azure glory is round the head. The back-ground of the whole is gold, +with an arabesque border. I wish I could have spared time to make a +facsimile of it. There are also figures of the four Evangelists, in the +usual style of art of this period; the whole in fine preservation. The +capital initials are capricious, but tasteful. We observe birds, beasts, +dragons, &c. coiled up in a variety of whimsical forms. The L. at the +beginning of the "Liber Generationis," is, as usual in highly executed +works of art of this period, peculiarly elaborate and striking. + +A _Psalter_, of probably a century later, next claims our attention. It is +a small folio, executed in a large, bold, gothic character. The +illuminations are entirely confined to the capital initials, which +represent some very grotesque, and yet picturesque grouping of animals and +human figures--all in a state of perfect preservation. The gold +back-grounds are not much raised, but of a beautiful lustre. It is +apparently imperfect at the end. The _binding_ merits distinct notice. In +the centre of one of the outside covers, is a figure of the Almighty, +sitting; in that of the other, are the Virgin and Infant Christ, also +sitting. Each subject is an illumination of the time of those in the volume +itself; and each is surrounded by pencil-coloured ornaments, divided into +squares, by pieces of tin, or lead soldered. A sheet of _horn_ is placed +over the whole of the exterior cover, to protect it from injury. This +binding is uncommon, but I should apprehend it to be not earlier than the +very commencement of the xvth century. + +I have not yet travelled out of the twelfth century; and mean to give you +some account of rather a splendid and precious MS. entitled _Vitae +Sanctorum_--supposed to be of the same period. It is said to have been +executed under the auspices of the _Emperor Conrad,_ who was chosen in 1169 +and died in 1193. It is an elegant folio volume. The illuminations are in +outline; in red, brown, or blue--firmly and truly touched, with very +fanciful inventions in the forms of the capital letters. The initial letter +prefixed to the account of the _Assumption of the Virgin_, is abundantly +clever and whimsical; while that prefixed to the Life of _St. Aurelius_ has +even an imposing air of magnificence, and is the most important in the +volume. + +Here is a curious _History of the Bible, in German verse_, as I learn, by +Rudolph, Count of Hohen Embs. Whether "curious" or not, I cannot tell; but +I can affirm that, since opening the famous MS. of the Roman +d'Alexandre,[12] at Oxford, I have not met with a finer, or more genuine +MS. than the present. It is a noble folio volume; highly, although in many +places coarsely, adorned. The text is executed in a square, stiff, German +letter, in double columns; and the work was written (as M. Le Bret informed +me, and as warranted by the contents) "in obedience to the orders of the +Emperor Conrad, son of the Emperor Frederick II: the greater part of it +being composed after the chronicle of Geoffrey de Viterbe." To specify the +illuminations would be an endless task. At the end of the MS. are the +following colophonic verses: + + _Uf den fridag was sts Brictius + Do nam diz buch ende alsus + Nach godis geburten dusint jar + Dar su ccc dni vnx achtzig als eyn har_. + +the "_ccc_" are interlined, in red ink: but the whole inscription implies +that the book was finished in 1381, on Friday, the day of St. Brictius. It +follows therefore that it could not have been written during the life-time +of Conrad IV. who was elected Emperor in 1250. This interesting MS. is in a +most desirable condition. + +There are two or three _Missals_ deserving only of brief notice. One, of +the XIVth century, is executed in large gothic letter; having an +exceedingly vivid and fresh illumination of a crucifixion, but in bad +taste, opposite the well-known passage of "Te igitur clementissime," &c. It +is bound in red satin. Two missals of the xvth century--of which one +presents only a few interesting prints connected with art. It is ornamented +in a sort of bistre outline, preparatory to colouring--of which numerous +examples may be seen in the Breviary of the Duke of Bedford in the Royal +Library at Paris.[13] I examined half a dozen more Missals, which the kind +activity of M. Le Bret had placed before me, and among them found nothing +deserving of particular observation,--except a thick, short, octavo volume, +in the German language, with characteristic and rather clever +embellishments; especially in the borders. + +There is a folio volume entitled "_La Vie, Mort, et Miracles de St. +Jerome_." The first large illumination, which is prettily composed, is +unluckily much injured in some parts. It represents the author kneeling, +with his cap in his right hand, and a book bound in black, with gold clasps +and knobs, in the other. A lady appears to receive this presentation-volume +very graciously; but unfortunately her countenance is obliterated. Two +female attendants are behind her: the whole, gracefully composed. I take +this MS. to be of the end of the xvth. century. There is a most desirable +MS. of the _Roman de la Rose_--of the end of the xivth century; in double +columns; with some of the illuminations, about two inches square, very +sweet and interesting. That, on the recto of folio xiiij, is quite +charming. The "testament" of the author, J. de Meun, follows; quietly +decorated, within flowered borders. The last illumination but one, of our +Saviour, sitting upon a rainbow is very singular. This MS. is in its old +binding of wood. + +A few _miscellaneous articles_ may be here briefly noticed. First: a German +metrical version of the Game of Chess, moralized, called _Der Schachzabel._ +This is an extraordinary, and highly illuminated MS. upon paper; written in +a sort of secretary gothic hand, in short rhyming verse, as I conceive +about the year 1400, or 1450. The embellishments are large and droll, and +in several of them we distinguish that thick, and shining, but cracked coat +of paint which is upon the old print of St. Bridget, in Lord Spencer's +collection.[14] Among the more striking illuminations is the _Knight_ on +horseback, in silver armour, about nine inches high--a fine showy fellow! +His horse has silver plates over his head. Many of the pieces in the game +are represented in a highly interesting manner, and the whole is invaluable +to the antiquary. This MS. is in boards. Second: a German version of +_Maundeville_, of the date of 1471, with curious, large, and grotesque +illuminations, of the coarsest execution. It is written in double columns, +in a secretary gothic hand, upon paper. The heads of the Polypheme tribe +are ludicrously horrible. Third:--_Herren Duke of Brunswick_, or the +_Chevalier au Lion_,--a MS. relating to this hero, of the date of 1470. A +lion accompanies him every where. Among the embellishments, there is a good +one of this animal leaping upon a tomb and licking it--as containing the +mortal remains of his master. Fourth: a series of German stanzas, sung by +birds, each bird being represented, in outline, before the stanza +appropriated to it. In the whole, only three leaves. + +The "last and not least" of the MSS. which I deem it worthy to mention, is +an highly illuminated one of _St. Austin upon the Psalms_. This was the +_first_ book which I remembered to have seen, upon the continent, from the +library of the famous _Corvinus King of Hungary,_ about which certain pages +have discoursed largely. It was also an absolutely beautiful book: +exhibiting one of the finest specimens of art of the latter end of the XVth +century. The commentary of the Saint begins on the recto of the second +leaf, within such a rich, lovely, and exquisitely executed border--as +almost made me forget the embellishments in the _Sforziada_ in the Royal +Library of France.[15] The border in question is a union of pearls and +arabesque ornaments quite standing out of the background ... which latter +has the effect of velvet. The arms, below, are within a double border of +pearls, each pair of pearls being within a gold circle upon an ultramarine +ground. The heads and figures have not escaped injury, but other portions +of this magical illumination have been rubbed or partly obliterated. + +A ms. note, prefixed by M. Le Bret, informs us, in the opinion of its +writer, that this illumination was the work of one "_Actavantes de +Actavantibus of Florence_,--who lived towards the end of the XVth century," +and who really seems to have done a great deal for Corvinus. The initial +letters, throughout this volume, delicately cross-barred in gold, with +little flowers and arabesques, &c. precisely resemble those in the MS. of +Mr. Hibbert.[16] Such a white, snowy page, as the one just in part +described, can scarcely be imagined by the uninitiated in ancient +illuminated MSS. The binding, in boards covered with leather, has the +original ornaments, of the time of Corvinus, which are now much faded. The +fore-edges of the leaves preserve their former gilt-stamped ornaments. Upon +the whole--an ALMOST MATCHLESS book! + +Such, my good friend, are the treasures, both in MS. and in print, which a +couple of morning's application, in the Public Library of Stuttgart, have +enabled me to bring forward for your notice. A word or two, now, for the +treasures of the ROYAL LIBRARY, and then for a little respite. The Library +of his Majesty is in one of the side wings, or rather appurtenances, of the +Palace: to the right, on looking at the front. It is on the first +floor--where _all_ libraries should be placed--and consists of a circular +and a parallelogram-shaped room: divided by a screen of Ionic pillars. A +similar screen is also at the further end of the latter room. The circular +apartment has a very elegant appearance, and contains some beautiful books +chiefly of modern art. A round table is in the centre, covered with fine +cloth, and the sides and pillars of the screen are painted wholly in +white--as well as the room connected with it. A gallery goes along the +latter, or parallelogram-shaped apartment; and there are, in the centre, +two rows of book-cases, very tall, and completely filled with books. These, +as well as the book-cases along the sides, are painted white. An +elaborately painted ceiling, chiefly composed of human figures, forms the +graphic ornament of the long library; but, unluckily, the central +book-cases are so high as to cover a great portion of the painting--viewed +almost in any direction. At the further end of the long library, facing the +circular extremity, is a bust of the late King of Wuertemberg, by Dannecker. +It bears so strong a resemblance to that of our own venerable monarch, that +I had considered it to be a representation of him--out of compliment to the +Dowager Queen of Wuertemberg, his daughter. The ceiling of this Library is +undoubtedly too low for its length. But the circular extremity has +something in it exceedingly attractive, and inviting to study. + +In noticing some of the contents of this Library, I shall correct the error +committed in the account of the Public Library, by commencing here with the +MANUSCRIPTS in preference to the Printed Books. The MSS. are by no means +numerous, and are perhaps rather curious than intrinsically valuable. I +shall begin with an account of a _Prayer-Book, or Psalter,_ in a quarto +form, undoubtedly of the latter end of the XIIth century. Its state of +preservation, both for illumination and scription, is quite exquisite. It +appears to have been expressly executed for Herman, and Sophia his wife, +King and Queen of Hungary and Bohemia--who lived at the latter end of the +twelfth century. The names of these royal patrons and owners of, the volume +are introduced at the end of the volume, in a sort of litany: accompanied +with embellishments of the Mother of Christ, Saints and Martyrs, &c.: as +thus: "_Sophia Regina Vngariae, Regina Bohemiae_"--"_Herman Lantgrauius +Turingie, Rex Vngariae, Rex Bohemiae_." In the Litany, we read (of the +_latter_) in the address to the Deity, "_Vt famulu tuu_ HERMANNV +_in tua misericordia confidente, confortare et regere dignter:_" so +that there is no doubt about the age of the MS. In the representations of +the episcopal dresses, the tops of the mitres are depressed--another +confirmation of the date of the book. + +The initial letters, and especially the B before the Psalms, are at once +elegant and elaborate. Among the subjects described, the _Descent into +Hell_, or rather the Place of Torment, is singularly striking and +extraordinary. The text of the MS. is written in a large bold gothic +letter. This volume has been recently bound in red morocco, and cruelly cut +in the binding. + +Of course, here are some specimens of illuminated _Hours_, both in +manuscript and print. In the former, I must make you acquainted with a +truly beautiful volume; upon the fly leaf of which we read as follows: "I 3 +F, RT, lo _Fortitudo Eius Rhodum tenuit Amadeus Graff^{9} Sauoia_." Below, +"_Biblioth: Sem: Mergenth_:" then, a long German note, of which I +understood not one word, and as M. Le Bret was not near me, I could not +obtain the solution of it. But although I do not understand one word of +this note, I do understand that this is one of the very prettiest, and most +singularly illuminated Missals, which any library can possess: broad +margins: vellum, white as snow in colour, and soft as that of Venice in +touch! The text is written in a tall, close, gothic character--between, as +I should conceive, the years 1460 and 1480. The _drolleries_ are +delightfully introduced and executed. The initial letters are large and +singular; the subject being executed within compartments of gothic +architecture. The figures, of which these subjects are composed, are very +small; generally darkly shaded, and highly relieved. They are numerous. Of +these initial letters, the fifth to the ninth, inclusively, are striking: +the sixth being the most curious, and the ninth the most elaborate. The +binding of this volume seems to be of the sixteenth century. This is as it +should be. + +But, more precious than either, or than both, or than three times as many +of the preceding illuminated volumes--in the estimation of our friend * * * +would be a MS. of which the title runs thus: "_Libri Duo de Vita_ S. +WILLIBROORDI _Archiepiscopi autore humili de vita_ ALCUINI _cum prefat. ad +Beonradum Archiepiscopum. Liber secundus metrice scriptus est_."[17] Then +an old inscription, thus: "_Althwinus de vita Willibrordi Epi_." There can +be no doubt of this MS. being at least as old as the eleventh century. + +The PRINTED BOOKS--at least the account of such as seemed to demand a more +particular examination, will not occupy a very great share of your +attention. I will begin with a pretty little VELLUM COPY of the well-known +_Hortulus Animae_, of the date of 1498, in 12mo., printed by _Wilhelmus +Schaffener de Ropperswiler,_ at _Strasbourg_. The vellum is excellent; and +the wood cuts, rather plentifully sprinkled through the volume, happen +fortunately to be well-coloured. This copy appears to have come from the +"_Weingarth Monastery"_, with the date of 1617 upon it--as that of its +having been then purchased for the monastery. It is in its original wooden +binding: wanting repair. Here are a few _Roman Classics_, which are more +choice than those in the Public Library: as _Reisinger's Suetonius_, in +4to. but cropt, and half bound in red morocco, with yellow sprinkled edges +to the leaves--a woful specimen of the general style of binding in this +library. _Lucretius_, 1486: _Manilius_, 1474: both in one volume, bound in +wood--and sound and desirable copies. _Eutropius_, 1471; by Laver; a sound, +desirable copy, in genuine condition. Of _Bibles_, here is the Greek Aldine +folio of 1518, in frightful half binding, cropt to the quick: also an +Hungarian impression of the two Books of Samuel and of Kings, of 1565, in +folio--beginning: AZ KET SAMVEL: colophon: _Debreczenbe_, &c. MDLXV: in +wretched half binding. The small paper of the _Latin Bibles_ of 1592, 1603. +And of _Greek Testaments_ here are the first, second, fourth and fifth +editions of Erasmus; the first, containing both parts, is in one volume, in +original boards, or binding; a sound and clean copy: written upon, but not +in a _very_ unpicturesque manner. The second edition is but an indifferent +copy. + +The following may be considered _Miscellaneous Articles._ I will begin with +the earliest. _St. Austin de Singularitate Clericorum_, printed in a small +quarto volume by _Ulric Zel_, in 1467: a good, sound, but cropt copy, along +with some opuscula of _Gerson_ and _Chrysostom_, also printed by Zel: +these, from the Schoenthal monastery. At the end of this dull collection of +old theology, are a few ms. opuscula, and among them one of the _Gesta +Romanorum:_ I should think of the fourteenth century. The _Wurtzburg +Synod_, supposed to be printed by Reyser, towards the end of the fifteenth +century; and of which there is a copy in the Public Library, as well as +another in that of Strasbourg. To the antiquary, this may be a curious +book. I mention it again,[18] in order to notice the name and seal of +"Iohannes Fabri,--clericus Maguntin diocesz publicus imperiali auctoritate +notarius, &c. Scriba iuratus"--which occur at about one fourth part of the +work: as I am desirous of knowing whether this man be the same, or related +to the, printer so called, who published the _Ethics of Cato_ in 1477?--of +which book I omitted to mention a copy in the Public Library here.[19] +Bound up with this volume is Fyner's edition of _P. Niger contra perfidos +Iudaeos_, 1475, folio. Fyner lived at Eislingen, in the neighbourhood of +this place, and it is natural to find specimens of his press here. The +_Stella Meschiah_ of 1477, is here cruelly cropt, and bound in the usually +barbarous manner, with a mustard-coloured sprinkling upon the edges of the +leaves. _Historie von der Melusina:_ a singular volume, in the German +language, printed without date, in a thin folio. It is a book perfectly _a +la_ Douce; full of whimsical and interesting wood cuts, which I do not +remember to have seen in any other ancient volume. From the conclusion of +the text, it appears to have been composed or finished in 1446, but I +suspect the date of its typographical execution to be that of 1480 at the +earliest. + +I looked about sharply for fine, old, mellow-tinted _Alduses:_--but to no +purpose. Yet I must notice a pretty little Aldine _Petrarch_ of 1521, 12mo. +bound with _Sannazarius de partu Virginis_, by the same printer, in 1527, +12mo.: in old stamped binding--but somewhat cropt. The leaves of both +copies crackle lustily on turning them over. These, also, from the +Weingarth monastery. I noticed a beautiful little Petrarch of 1546, 8vo. +with the commentary of Velutellus; having a striking device of Neptune in +the frontispiece: but no _membranaceous_ articles, of this character and +period, came across my survey. + +I cannot, however, take leave of the Royal Library (a collection which I +should think must contain 15,000 volumes) without expressing my obligations +for the unrestricted privilege of examination afforded me by those who had +the superintendance of it. But I begin to be wearied, and it is growing +late. The account of the "court-levee," and the winding up of other +Stuttgart matters, must be reserved for to-morrow. The watchman has just +commenced his rounds, by announcing, as usual, the hour of _ten_--which +announce is succeeded by a long (and as I learn _metrical_) +exhortation--for the good folks of Stuttgart to take care of their fires +and candles. I obey his injunctions; and say good night. + + +[1] See vol. ii. p. 421. + +[2] [Of this PORTRAIT, which may be truly said to enrich the pages of the + previous edition of the Tour, a more _liberal_ use has been made + than I was prepared to grant. My worthy friends, Messrs. Treuttel, + Wuertz, and Richter were welcome to its republication; but a _third + edition_ of it, by another hand, ought not to have been published + without permission. The ORIGINAL of this Portrait has ceased to exist. + After a laborious life of fourscore years, the learned Schweighaeuser + has departed--in the fullest maturity of reputation arising from + classical attainments; to which must be added, all the excellences of + a mild, affable, christian-like disposition. As a husband, a father, + and a friend, none went before him: no one displayed these domestic + virtues in a more perfect and more pleasing form. As a Greek Scholar + and Commentator, he may be said to rank with Hemsterhusius, + Wyttenbach, and Heyne. He was equally the boast of Strasbourg and the + glory of his age. Never was profound learning more successfully united + with "singleness of heart," and general simplicity of character. He + ought to have a splendid monument (if he have it not already?) among + his Fellow Worthies in the church of St. Thomas at Strasbourg. PEACE + TO HIS ASHES!] + +[3] For the first time, my bill (which I invariably called for, and + settled, every day) was presented to me in a printed form, in the + _black letter_, within an ornamented border. It was entitled + Rechnung von Gottlob Ernst Teichmann, zum Waldhorn in Stuttgart. The + printed articles, against which blanks are left, to be filled up + according to the quantity and quality of the fare, were these: + Fruhstuck, Mittag-Essen, Nacht Essen, Fremder Wein, Ordinarier Wein, + Verschiedenes, Logis, Feuerung, Bediente. I must be allowed to add, + that the head waiter of the Waldhorn, or _Hunting Horn_, was one + of the most respectably looking, and well-mannered, of his species. He + spoke French fluently, but with the usual German accent. The master of + the inn was coarse and bluff, but bustling and civil. He frequently + devoted one of the best rooms in his house to large, roaring, singing, + parties--in which he took a decided lead, and kept it up till past + midnight. + +[4] [The late Duchess of OLDENBURG.] + +[5] See vol. ii. p. 356. + +[6] [This Public Library is now pulled down, and another erected on the + site of it.] + +[7] In one of these copies is an undoubtedly coeval memorandum in red ink, + thus: "_Explicit liber iste Anno domini Millesio quadringentissimo + sexagesimosexto_ (1466) _format^{9} arte impssoria p venerabilem + viru Johane mentell in argentina_," &c. I should add, that, + previously to the words "_sexagesimosexto_" were those of + "_quiquagesimosexto_"--which have been erased by the pen of the + Scribe; but not so entirely as to be illegible. I am indebted to M. Le + Bret for the information that this Bible by Mentelin is more ancient + than the one, without date or place, &c. (see _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. i. + p. 42, &c.) which has been usually considered to be anterior to it. M. + Le Bret draws this conclusion from the comparative antiquity of the + language of Mentelin's edition. + +[8] This was the _second_ copy, with the same original piece, which I + had seen abroad; that in the Library of the Arsenal at Paris being the + first. I have omitted to notice this, in my account of that Library, + vol. ii. p. 156-7, &c. + +[9] [Both volumes will be found particularly described in the _AEdes + Althorpianae_, vol. ii. p. 285-290.] + +[10] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a PERFECT COPY of this most rare + edition--by the purchase of the library of the Duke di Cassano, at + Naples. See the _Cassano Catalogue_, p. 116. + +[11] A very particular description of this rare edition will be found in + the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. ii. p. 141. + +[12] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. cxcviii. + +[13] See vol. ii. p. 73. + +[14] See _Ottley's History of Engraving_, vol. i. p. 86; where a + fac-simile of this cut is given--which, in the large paper copies, is + coloured. + +[15] See vol. ii. p. 134-5. + +[16] The SFORZIADA: See the Catalogue of his Library, no. 7559. + +[17] The prologue of this metrical life begins thus: + + _Ecce tuis parui uotis uenerande sacerdos + Cor quia de vro feruet amore mihi + Pontificis magna wilbroodi et psulis almus + Recurrens titulis inclyta gesta tuis + Sit lux inferior strepitant cum murmure rauco + illius egregi^{9} sermo meus meritis_ + + This life consists of only 11 leaves, having 23 verses in a full page. + It is printed in the _Lect. Antiq. of Canisius_, vol. ii. p. 463; + and the prose life is printed by _Surius_ and by _Mabillon_. + +[18] Before described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. IV. p. 508. + +[19] The book in question has the following colophon: + + _Hoc opus exiguum perfecit rite iohannes + Fabri: cui seruat lingonis alta lares. + Ac uoluit formis ipsum fecisse casellis. + M.cccc.lxxcii de mense maii_. + + The _s_ is very singular, being smaller than the other letters, + and having a broken effect. This copy, in the Public Library at + Stuttgart, is not bound, but in excellent condition. + + + + +LETTER II. + + +THE ROYAL PALACE. A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NEGOTIATION. DANNECKER THE SCULPTOR. +ENVIRONS OF STUTTGART. + + +The morrow is come; and as the morning is too rainy to stir abroad, I sit +down to fulfil the promise of last night. This will be done with the +greater cheerfulness and alacrity, as the evenings have been comparatively +cooler, and my slumbers, in consequence, more sound and refreshing. M. LE +BRET--must be the first name mentioned upon this occasion. In other words, +the negotiation about the _two Virgils_, through the zeal and good +management of that active Head-Librarian, began quickly to assume a most +decided form; and I received an intimation from Mr. Hamilton, our Charge +d'Affaires, that the King expected to see me upon the subject at the +"circle"--last Sunday evening. + +But before you go with me to court, I must make you acquainted with the +place in which the Court is held: in other words, with the ROYAL PALACE of +STUTTGART. Take away the gilt cushion and crown at the top of it, and the +front facade has really the air of a royal residence. It is built of stone: +massive and unpretending in its external decorations, and has two wings +running at right angles with the principal front elevation. To my eye, it +had, at first view, and still continues to have, more of a Palace-like look +than the long but slender structure of the Tuilleries. To the left, on +looking at it--or rather behind the left wing is a large, well-trimmed +flower-garden, terminating in walks, and a carriage way. Just in front of +this garden, before a large bason of water, and fixed upon a sort of +parapet wall--is a very pleasing, colossal group of two female +statues--_Pomona_ and _Flora_, as I conceive--sculptured by Dannecker. +Their forms are made to intertwine very gracefully; and they are cut in a +coarse, but hard and pleasingly-tinted, stone. For out-of-door figures, +they are much superior to the generality of unmeaning allegorical marble +statues in the gardens of the Thuilleries. + +The interior of the palace has portions, which may be said to verify what +we have read, in boyish days, of the wonder-working powers of the lamp of +Aladdin. Here are porphyry and granite, and rosewood, and satin-wood, +porcelaine, and or-molu ornaments, in all their varieties of unsullied +splendor. A magnificent vestibule, and marble staircase; a concert room; an +assembly-room; and chamber of audience: each particularly brilliant and +appropriate; while, in the latter, you observe a throne, or chair of state, +of antique form, but entirely covered with curious gilt carvings--rich, +without being gaudy--and striking without being misplaced. You pass +on--room after room--from the ceilings of which, lustres of increasing +brilliance depend; but are not disposed to make any halt till you enter a +small apartment with a cupola roof--within a niche of which stands the +small statue of _Cupid_; with his head inclined, and one hand raised to +feel the supposed-blunted point of a dart which he holds in the other. This +is called the Cupid-Room, out of compliment to DANNECKER the sculptor of +the figure, who is much patronised by the Queen. A statue or two by Canova, +with a tolerable portion of Gobeleine tapestry, form the principal +remaining moveable pieces of furniture. A minuter description may not be +necessary: the interiors of all palaces being pretty much alike--if we put +pictures and statues out of the question. + +From the Palace, I must now conduct you to the "circle" or Drawing +Room--which I attended. Mr. Hamilton was so obliging as to convey me +thither. The King paid his respects personally to each lady, and was +followed by the Queen. The same order was observed with the circle of +gentlemen. His Majesty was dressed in what seemed to be an English uniform, +and wore the star of the Order of the Bath. His figure is perhaps under the +middle size, but compact, well formed, and having a gentlemanly deportment. +The Queen was, questionless, the most interesting female in the circle. To +an Englishman, her long and popular residence in England, rendered her +doubly an object of attraction. She was superbly dressed, and yet the whole +had a simple, lady-like, appearance. She wore a magnificent tiara of +diamonds, and large circular diamond ear rings: but it was her _necklace_, +composed of the largest and choicest of the same kind of precious stones, +which flashed a radiance on the eyes of the beholder, that could scarcely +be exceeded even in the court-circles of St. Petersburg. Her hair was +quietly and most becomingly dressed; and with a small white fan in her +hand, which she occasionally opened and shut, she saluted, and discoursed +with, each visitor, as gracefully and as naturally as if she had been +accustomed to the ceremony from her earliest youth. Her dark eyes surveyed +each figure, quickly, from head to foot--while ... + + "_Favours_ to none, to all she _smiles_ extends." + +Among the gentlemen, I observed a young man of a very prepossessing form +and manners--having seven orders, or marks of distinction hanging from his +button-holes. Every body seemed anxious to exchange a word with him; and he +might be at farthest in his thirtieth year. I could not learn his name, but +I learnt that his _character_ was quite in harmony with his _person_: that +he was gay, brave, courteous and polite: that his courage knew no bounds: +that he would storm a citadel, traverse a morass, or lead on to a charge, +with equal coolness, courage, and intrepidity: that repose and inaction +were painful to him--but that humanity to the unfortunate, and the most +inflexible attachment to relations and friends, formed, equally, +distinctive marks of his character. This intelligence quite won my heart in +favour of the stranger, then standing and smiling immediately before me; +and I rejoiced that the chivalrous race of the _Peterboroughs_ was not yet +extinct, but had taken root, and "borne branch and flower," in the soil of +Suabia. + +When it came to my turn to be addressed, the king at once asked--"if I had +not been much gratified with the books in the Public Library, and +particularly with two _ancient editions_ of Virgil?" I merely indicated an +assent to the truth of this remark, waiting for the conclusion to be drawn +from the premises. "There has been some mention made to me (resumed his +Majesty) about a proposed exchange on the part of Lord Spencer, for these +two ancient editions, which appear to be wanting in his Lordship's +magnificent collection. For my part, I see no objection to the final +arrangement of this business--if it can be settled upon terms satisfactory +to all parties." This was the very point to which I was so anxious to bring +the conference. I replied, coolly and unhesitatingly, "that it was +precisely as his Majesty had observed; that his own Collection was strong +in _Bibles_, but comparatively weak in Ancient _Classics_: and that a +diminution of the _latter_ would not be of material consequence, if, in +lieu of it, there could be an increase of the _former_--so as to carry it +well nigh towards perfection; that, in whatever way this exchange was +effected, whether by money, or by books, in the first instance, it would +doubtless be his Majesty's desire to direct the application of the one or +the other to the completion of his _Theological Collection_." + +The King replied "he saw no objection whatever to the proposed +exchange--and left the forms of carrying it into execution with his head +librarian M. Le Bret." Having gained my point, it only remained to make my +bow. The King then passed on to the remainder of the circle, and was +quickly followed by the Queen. I heard her Majesty distinctly tell General +Allan,[20] in the English language, that "she could never forget her +reception in England; that the days spent there were among the happiest of +her life, and that she hoped, before she died, again to visit our country." +She even expressed "gratitude for the cordial manner in which she had been +received, and, entertained in it."[21] + +The heat had now become almost insupportable; as, for the reason before +assigned, every window and door was shut. However, this inconvenience, if +it was severe, was luckily of short duration. A little after nine, their +Majesties retired towards the door by which they had entered: and which, as +it was reopened, presented, in the background, the attendants waiting to +receive them. The King and Queen then saluted the circle, and retired. In +ten minutes we had all retreated, and were breathing the pure air of +heaven. I preferred walking home, and called upon M. Le Bret in my way. It +was about half past nine only, but that philosophical bibliographer was +about retiring to rest. He received me, however, with a joyous welcome: +re-trimmed his lamp; complimented me upon the success of the negotiation, +and told me that I might now depart in peace from Stuttgart--for that "the +affair might be considered as settled."[22] + +I have mentioned to you, more than once, the name of DANNECKER the +sculptor. It has been my good fortune to visit him, and to converse with +him much at large, several times. He is one of the most unaffected of the +living Phidias-tribe; resembling much, both in figure and conversation, and +more especially in a pleasing simplicity of manners, our celebrated +_Chantry_. Indeed I should call Dannecker, on the score of art as well as +of person, rather the Chantry than the _Flaxman_ or _Canova_ of Suabia. He +shewed me every part of his study; and every cast of such originals as he +had executed, or which he had it in contemplation to execute. Of those that +had left him, I was compelled to be satisfied with the plaster of his +famous ARIADNE, reclining upon the back of a passant leopard, each of the +size of life. The original belongs to a banker at Frankfort, for whom it +was executed for the sum of about one thousand pounds sterling. It must be +an exquisite production; for if the _plaster_ be thus interesting what must +be the effect of the _marble_? Dannecker told me that the most difficult +parts of the group, as to detail, were the interior of the leopard's feet, +and the foot and retired drapery of the female figure--which has one leg +tucked under the other. The whole composition has an harmonious, joyous +effect; while health, animation, and beauty breathe in every limb and +lineament of Ariadne. + +But it was my good fortune to witness _one_ original of Dannecker's +chisel--of transcendent merit. I mean, the colossal head of SCHILLER; who +was the intimate friend, and a townsman of this able sculptor. I never +stood before so expressive a modern countenance. The forehead is high and +wide, and the projections, over the eye-brows, are boldly, but finely and +gradually, marked. The eye is rather full, but retired. The cheeks are +considerably shrunk. The mouth is full of expression, and the chin somewhat +elongated. The hair flows behind in a broad mass, and ends in a wavy curl +upon the shoulders: not very unlike the professional wigs of the French +barristers which I had seen at Paris. Upon the whole, I prefer this +latter--for breadth and harmony--to the eternal conceit of the wig a la +grecque. "It was so (said Dannecker) that Schiller wore his hair; and it +was precisely with this physiognomical expression that he came out to me, +dressed en roquelaure, from his inner apartment, when I saw him for the +last time. I thought to myself--on so seeing him--(added the sculptor) that +it is thus that I will chisel your bust in marble." Dannecker then +requested me to draw my hand gently over the forehead--and to observe by +what careful, and almost imperceptible gradations, this boldness of front +had been accomplished; I listened to every word that he said about the +extraordinary character then, as it were, before me, with an earnestness +and pleasure which I can hardly describe; and walked round and round the +bust with a gratification approaching to ecstacy. They may say what they +please--at Rome or at London--but a _finer_ specimen of art, in its very +highest department, and of its particular kind, the chisel of _no living_ +Sculptor hath achieved. As a bust, it is perfect. It is the MAN; with all +his MIND in his countenance; without the introduction of any sickly airs +and graces, which are frequently the result of a predetermination to treat +it--as _Phidias_ or _Praxiteles_ would have treated it! It is worth a host +of such figures as that of Marshal Saxe at Strasbourg. + +"Would any sum induce you to part with it?"--said I, in an under tone, to +the unsuspecting artist ... bethinking me, at the same time, of offering +somewhere about 250 louis d'or--"None:" replied Dannecker. "I loved the +original too dearly to part with this copy of his countenance, in which I +have done my utmost to render it worthy of my incomparable friend." I think +the artist said that the Queen had expressed a wish to possess it; but he +was compelled to adhere religiously to his determination of keeping it for +himself. Dannecker shewed me a plaster cast of his intended figure of +CHRIST. It struck me as being of great simplicity of breadth, and majesty +of expression; but perhaps the form wanted fulness--and the drapery might +be a little too sparing. I then saw several other busts, and subjects, +which have already escaped my recollection; but I could not but be struck +with the quiet and unaffected manner in which this meritorious artist +mentioned the approbation bestowed by CANOVA upon several of his +performances. He is very much superior indeed to Ohmacht; but comparisons +have long been considered as uncourteous and invidious--and so I will only +add, that, if ever Dannecker visits England--which he half threatens to +do--he shall be feted by a Commoner, and patronised by a Duke. Meanwhile, +you have here his Autograph for contemplation. + +[Illustration: Autograph of Dannecker] + + +[20] Afterwards Sir Alexander Allan, Bart. I met him and Captain C * * *, + of the Royal Navy, in their way to Inspruck. But Sir Alexander (than + whom, I believe a worthier or a braver man never entered the + profession of which he was so distinguished an ornament) scarcely + survived the excursion two years. + +[21] The Queen of Wuertemberg survived the levee, above described, only a + few months. Her DEATH was in consequence of over-maternal anxiety + about her children, who were ill with the measles. The queen was + suddenly called from her bed on a cold night in the month of January + to the chamber where her children were seriously indisposed. Forgetful + of herself, of the hour, and of the season, she caught a severe cold: + a violent erysipelatous affection, terminating in apoplexy, was the + fatal result--and SHE, who, but a few short-lived months before, had + shone as the brightest star in the hemisphere of her own court;--who + was the patroness of art;--and of two or three national schools, + building, when I was at Stuttgart, at her own expense--was doomed to + become the subject of general lamentation and woe. She was admired, + respected, and beloved. It was pleasing, as it was quite natural, to + see her (as I had often done) and the King, riding out in the same + carriage, or phaeton, without any royal guard; and all ranks of people + heartily disposed to pay them the homage of their respect. In a letter + from M. Le Bret, of the 8th of June 1819, I learnt that a magnificent + chapel, built after the Grecian model, was to contain the monument to + be erected to her memory. Her funeral was attended by six hundred + students from Tubingen, by torch light. + +[22] For the sake of juxta-position, I will here mention the SEQUEL, as + briefly as may be. The "affair" was far from being at that time + "settled." But, on reaching Manheim, about to recross the Rhine, on my + return to Paris--I found a long and circumstantial letter from my + bibliographical correspondent at Stuttgart, which seemed to bring the + matter to a final and desirable issue. "So many thousand francs had + been agreed upon--there only wanted a well bound copy of the + _Bibliographical Decameron_ to boot:--and the Virgils were to be + considered as his Lordship's property." Mr. Hamilton, our Charge + d'Affaires, had authority to pay the money--and I ... walked instantly + to _Artaria's_--purchased a copy of the work in question, (which + happened to be there, in blue morocco binding,) and desired my valet + to get ready to start the next morning, by three or four o'clock, to + travel post to Stuttgart: from whence he was not to return + _without_ bringing the VIRGILS, in the same carriage which would + convey him and the Decameronic volumes. Charles Rohfritsch immediately + prepared to set out on his journey. He left Manheim at three in the + morning; travelled without intermission to Stuttgart,--perhaps + fourscore or ninety miles from Manheim--put up at his old quarters + _zum Waldhorn_ (see p. 17, ante.) waited upon M. Le Bret with a + letter, and the morocco tomes--RECEIVED THE VIRGILS--and prepared for + his return to Manheim--which place he reached by two on the following + morning. I had told him that, at whatever hour he arrived, he was to + make his way to my chamber. He did as he was desired. "LES + VOILA!"--exclaimed he, on placing the two volumes hastily upon the + table.--"Ma foi, Monsieur, c'est ceci une drole d'affaire; il y a je + ne scai pas combien de lieues que j'ai traverse pour deux anciens + livres qui ne valent pas a mes yeux le tiers d'un Napoleon!" I readily + forgave him all this saucy heresy--and almost hugged the volumes ... + on finding them upon my table. They were my constant travelling + companions through France to Calais; and when I shewed the _Adam + Virgil_ to M. Van Praet, at Paris--"Enfin (remarked he, as he turned + over the broad-margined and loud-crackling leaves) voila un livre dont + j'ai beaucoup entendu parler, mais que je n'ai jamais vu!" These words + sounded as sweet melody to mine ears. But I will unfeignedly declare, + that the joy which crowned the whole, was, when I delivered _both_ the + books ... into the hands of their present NOBLE OWNER: with whom they + will doubtless find their FINAL RESTING PLACE. [Such was my + bibliographical history--eleven years ago. Since that period NO copy + of EITHER edition has found its way into England. "Terque quaterque + beatus!"] + + + + +LETTER III. + + +DEPARTURE FROM STUTTGART. ULM. AUGSBOURG. THE PICTURE GALLERY AT AUGSBOURG. + + +_Augsbourg, Hotel des Trois Negres, Aug. 9, 1818._ + + +MY DEAR FRIEND; + + +I have indeed been an active, as well as fortunate traveller, since I last +addressed you; and I sit down to compose rather a long despatch, which, +upon the whole, will be probably interesting; and which, moreover, is +penned in one of the noblest hotels in Europe. The more I see of Germany, +the more I like it. Behold me, then in _Bavaria_; within one of its most +beautiful cities, and looking, from my window, upon a street called +_Maximilian Street_--which, for picturesque beauty, is exceeded only by the +High-street at Oxford. A noble fountain of bronze figures in the centre of +it, is sending forth its clear and agitated waters into the air--only to +fall, in pellucid drops, into a basin of capacious dimensions: again to be +carried upwards, and again to descend. 'Tis a magnificent fountain; and I +wish such an one were in the centre of the street above mentioned, or in +that of Waterloo Place. But to proceed with my Journal from Stuttgart. + +I left that capital of the kingdom of Wuertemberg about five in the +afternoon, accompanied by my excellent friend M. Le Bret, who took a seat +in the carriage as far as the boundaries of the city.[23] His dry drollery, +and frankness of communication, made me regret that he could not accompany +us--at least as far as the first stage _Plochingen_;--especially as the +weather was beautiful, and the road excellent. However, the novelty of each +surrounding object--(but shall ... I whisper a secret in your ear?--the +probably successful result of the negotiation about the two ancient +editions of Virgil--yet more than each surrounding object) put me in +perfect good humour, as we continued to roll pleasantly on towards our +resting-place for the night--either _Goeppingen_, or _Geislingen_,--as time +and inclination might serve. The sky was in a fine crimson glow with the +approaching sun-set, which was reflected by a river of clear water, skirted +in parts by poplar and birch, as we changed horses at _Plochingen_. It was, +I think, _that_ town, rather than Goeppingen, (the next stage) which struck +us, en passant, to be singularly curious and picturesque on the score of +antiquity and street scenery. It was with reluctance that I passed through +it in so rapid a manner: but necessity alone was the excuse. + +We slept, and slept comfortably, at _Goeppingen_. From thence to +_Geislingen_ are sweet views: in part luxuriant and cultivated, and in part +bold and romantic. Here, were the humble and neatly-trimmed huts of +cottagers; there, the lofty and castle-crowned domains of the Baron. It was +all pleasing and heart-cheering; while the sky continued in one soft and +silvery tint from the unusual transparency of the day. On entering +_Geislingen_, our attention was quickly directed to other, and somewhat +extraordinary, objects. In this town, there is a great manufactory of +articles in _ivory_; and we had hardly stopped to change horses--in other +words, the postilion had not yet dismounted--ere we were assailed by some +half dozen ill-clad females, who crawled up the carriage, in all +directions, with baskets of ivory toys in their hands, saluting us with +loud screams and tones--which, of course, we understood to mean that their +baskets might be lightened of their contents. Our valet here became the +principal medium of explanation. Charles Rohfritsch raised himself up from +his seat; extended, his hands, elevated his voice, stamped, seized upon +one, and caught hold of another, assailant at the same time--threatening +them with the vengeance of the police if they did not instantly desist from +their rude assaults. It was indeed high time to be absolute; for Mr. Lewis +was surrounded by two, and I was myself honoured by a visit of three, of +this gipsy tribe of ivory-venders: who had crawled over the dicky, and up +the hinder wheels, into the body of the carriage. + +There seemed to be no alternative but to purchase _something_. We took two +or three boxes, containing crucifixes, toothpicks, and apple-scoops; and +set the best face we could upon this strange adventure. Meanwhile, fresh +horses were put to; and the valet joked with the ivory venders--having +desired the postilion, (as he afterwards informed me) as soon as he was +mounted, to make some bold flourishes with his whip, to stick his spurs +into the sides of his horses, and disentangle himself from the surrounding +female throng as speedily as he could. The postilion did as he was +commanded: and we darted off at almost a full gallop. A steep hill was +before us, but the horses continued to keep their first pace, till a touch +of humanity made our charioteer relax from his efforts. We had now left the +town of Geislingen behind us, but yet saw the ivory venders pointing +towards the route we had taken. "This has been a strange piece of business +indeed, Sir," (observed the valet). "These women are a set of mad-caps; but +they are nevertheless women of character. They always act thus: especially +when they see that the visitors are English--for they are vastly fond of +your countrymen!" + +We were now within about twenty English miles of ULM. Nothing particular +occurred, either by way of anecdote or of scenery, till within almost the +immediate approach, or descent to that city--the last in the Suabian +territories, and which is separated from Bavaria by the river Danube. I +caught the first glance of that celebrated river (here of comparatively +trifling width) with no ordinary emotions of delight. It recalled to my +memory the battle of _Blenheim_, or of _Hochstedt_; for you know that it +was across this very river, and scarcely a score of miles from Ulm, that +the victorious MARLBOROUGH chased the flying French and Bavarians--at the +battle just mentioned. At the same moment, almost, I could not fail to +contrast this glorious issue with the miserable surrender of the town +before me--then filled by a large and well-disciplined army, and commanded +by that non-pareil of generals, J.G. MACK!--into the power of Bonaparte... +almost without pulling a trigger on either side--the place itself being +considered, at the time, one of the strongest towns in Europe. These +things, I say, rushed upon my memory, when, on the immediate descent into +Ulm, I caught the first view of the tower of the MINSTER ... which quickly +put Marlborough, and Mack, and Bonaparte out of my recollection. + + +I had never, since quitting the beach at Brighton, beheld such an +_English-like_ looking cathedral--as a whole; and particularly the tower. +It is broad, bold, and lofty; but, like all edifices, seen from a +neighbouring and perhaps loftier height, it loses, at first view, very much +of the loftiness of its character. However, I looked with admiration, and +longed to approach it. This object was accomplished in twenty minutes. We +entered Ulm about two o'clock: drove to an excellent inn (the _White +Stag_--which I strongly recommend to all fellow-travellers) and ordered our +dinner to be got ready by five; which, as the house was within a stone's +cast of the cathedral, gave us every opportunity of visiting it before +hand. The day continued most beautiful: and we sallied forth in high +spirits, to gaze at and to admire every object of antiquity which should +present itself. + +You may remember my mentioning, towards the close of my last despatch, that +a letter was lying upon the table, directed to one of the Professors of the +University, or _gymnase_, of this place. The name of that Professor was +VEESENMEYER; a very respectable, learned, and kind-hearted gentleman. I +sought his house (close to the cathedral) the very first thing on quitting +the hotel. The Professor was at home. On receiving my letter, by the hands +of a pretty little girl, one of his daughters, M. Veesenmeyer made his +appearance at the top of a short stair case, arrayed in a sort of woollen, +quilted jacket, with a green cloth cap on, and a pipe in his mouth--which +latter seemed to be full as tall as himself. I should think that the +Professor could not be taller than his pipe, which might be somewhere about +five feet in length. His figure had an exceedingly droll appearance. His +mode of pronouncing French was somewhat germanized; but I strained every +nerve to understand him, as my valet was not with me, and as there would +have been no alternative but to have talked Latin. I was desirous of seeing +the library, attached to the cathedral. "Could the Professor facilitate +that object?" "Most willingly--" was his reply--"I will write a note to * * +the librarian: carry it to him, and he will shew you the library directly, +if he be at home." I did as he desired me; but found the number of the +house very difficult to discover--as the houses are numbered, +consecutively, throughout the town--down one street and up another: so +that, without knowing the order of the _streets_ through which the numbers +run, it is hardly possible for a stranger to proceed. + +Having sauntered round and round, and returned almost to the very spot +whence I had set out, I at last found the residence of the librarian.--On +being admitted, I was introduced to a tall, sharp-visaged, and +melancholy-complexioned gentleman, who seemed to rise six feet from the +ground on receiving me. He read the Professor's note: but alas! could not +speak one word of French. "Placetne tibi, Domine, sermone latino uti?" I +answered in the affirmative; but confessed that I was totally out of the +habit of speaking it in England: and besides, that our _mode of +pronunciation_ was very different from that of other countries. The man of +dark vestments and sombre countenance relaxed into a gentle smile, as I +added the latter part of this remark: and I accompanied him quickly, but +silently, to the library in question. Its situation is surely among the +most whimsical in existence. It is placed up one pair of stairs, to the +left of the choir; and you ascend up to it through a gloomy and narrow +stone staircase. If I remember rightly, the outward door, connecting with +the stairs, is in the cathedral yard. The library itself is very small; and +a print, being a portrait of its Donor, hangs up against the +shelves--facing as you enter. I had never seen this print before. It was an +interesting portrait; and had, I think, a date of somewhere about 1584. The +collection was chiefly theological; yet there were a few old classics, but +of very secondary value. The only book that I absolutely coveted, was a +folio, somewhat charged with writing in the margins, of which the title and +colophon are as follow:--for I obtained permission to make a memorandum of +them. "Gutheri Ligurini Poetae clarissimi diui Frid. pri Dece libri +foeliciter editi: _impssi per industriu & ingeniosu Magistru +Erhardu Oeglin ciuem augustesem Ano Sesquimillesimo & septimo +mese Apprilio_" This edition contains M vj, in sixes. The preceding +article is followed by six leaves, containing supplemental matter. + +I asked my sable attendant, if this book could be parted with--either for +money, or in exchange for other books? he replied, "that that point must be +submitted to the consideration of a chapter: that the library was rarely or +never visited; but that he considered it would not be proper to disturb its +order, or to destroy its identity, since it was a _sacred legacy_." I told +him that he reasoned well; but that, should the chapter change such a +resolution, my address would be found at Vienna, poste restante, till the +20th of the following month. We parted in terms of formal politeness; being +now and then a little checked in my discourse, by the reply, on his part, +of "Non prorsus intelligo." I am glad, however, to have seen this secluded +cabinet of books; which would have been the very place for the study of +Anthony Wood or Thomas Hearne. It had quite an air of monastic seclusion, +and it seemed as if scarcely six persons had trod the floor, or six volumes +had been taken down from the shelves, since the day when the key was first +turned upon the door which encloses the collection. After a few "_salves_," +and one "_vale_," I returned to the White Stag. + +The CATHEDRAL of ULM is doubtless among the most respectable of those upon +the continent. It is large and wide, and of a massive and imposing style of +architecture. The buttresses are bold, and very much after the English +fashion. The tower is the chief exterior beauty. Before we mounted it, we +begged the guide, who attended us, to conduct us all over the interior. +This interior is very noble: and even superior, as a piece of architecture, +to that of Strasbourg. I should think it even longer and wider--for the +truth is, that the tower of _Strasbourg_ Cathedral is as much too _tall_, +as that of _Ulm_ cathedral is too _short_, for its nave and choir. Not very +long ago, they had covered the interior by a white wash; and thus the +mellow tint of probably about five centuries--in a spot where there are few +immediately surrounding houses--and in a town of which the manufactories +and population are comparatively small--the _latter_ about 14,000--thus, I +say, the mellow tint of these five centuries (for I suppose the cathedral +to have been finished about the year 1320) has been cruelly changed for the +staring and chilling effects of whiting. + +The choir is interesting in a high degree. At the extremity of it, is an +altar--indicative of the Lutheran form of worship[24] being carried on +within the church--upon which are oil paintings upon wood, emblazoned with +gilt backgrounds--of the time of _Hans Burgmair_, and of others at the +revival of the art of painting in Germany. These pictures turn upon hinges, +so as to shut up, or be thrown open; and are in the highest state of +preservation. Their subjects are entirely scriptural; and perhaps old _John +Holbein_, the father of the famous Hans Holbein, might have had a share in +some of them. Perhaps they may come down to the time of _Lucas Cranach_. +Whenever, or by whomsoever executed, this series of paintings, upon the +high altar of the cathedral of Ulm, cannot be viewed without considerable +satisfaction. They were the first choice specimens of early art which I had +seen on this side of the Rhine; and I of course contemplated them with the +hungry eye of an antiquary. + +After a careful survey of the interior, the whole of which had quite the +air of English cleanliness and order, we prepared to mount the famous +tower. Our valet, Rohfritsch, led the way; counting the steps as he +mounted, and finding them to be about three hundred and seventy-eight in +number. He was succeeded by the guide. Mr. Lewis and myself followed in a +more leisurely manner; peeping through the interstices which presented +themselves in the open fretwork of the ornaments, and finding, as we +continued to ascend, that the inhabitants and dwelling houses of Ulm +diminished gradually in size. At length we gained the summit, which is +surrounded by a parapet wall of some three or four feet in height. We +paused a minute, to recover our breath, and to look at the prospect which +surrounded us. The town, at our feet, looked like the metropolis of Laputa. +Yet the high ground, by which we had descended into the town--and upon +which Bonaparte's army was formerly encamped--seemed to be more lofty than +the spot whereon we stood. On the opposite side flowed the _Danube_: not +broad, nor, as I learnt very deep; but rapid, and in a serpentine +direction. The river here begins to be navigable for larger boats; but +there is little appearance of bustle or business upon the quays. Few or no +white sails, floating down the stream, catch the morning or the evening +sun-beam: no grove of masts: no shouts of mariners: no commercial rivalry. +But what then? Close to the very spot where we stood, our attention was +directed to a circumstance infinitely more interesting, to the whimsical +fancy of an Antiquary, than a whole forest of masts. What might this be? +Listen. + +"Do you observe, here, gentlemen?" said the guide--pointing to the coping +of the parapet wall, where the stone is a little rubbed, "I do"--(replied +I) "What may this mean?" "Look below, Sir, (resumed he) how fearfully deep +it is. You would not like to tumble down from hence?" This remark could +admit but of one answer--in the _negative_; yet the man seemed to be +preparing himself to announce some marvellous fact, and I continued mute. +"Mark well, gentlemen; (continued he) it was here, on this identical spot, +that our famous EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN stood upon one leg, and turned himself +quite round, to the astonishment and trepidation of his attendants! He was +a man of great bravery, and this was one of his pranks to shew his courage. +This story, gentlemen, has descended to us for three centuries; and not +long ago the example of the Emperor was attempted to be imitated by two +officers,--one of whom failed, and the other succeeded. The first lost his +balance, and was precipitated to the earth--dying the very instant he +touched the ground; the second succeeded, and declared himself, in +consequence, MAXIMILIAN the SECOND!" I should tell you, however, that these +attempts were not made on the same day. The officers were Austrian. + +The room in the middle of the platform, and surmounted by a small spire +does not appear to be used for any particular purpose. Having satisfied our +curiosity, and in particular stretched our eyes "as far (to borrow Caxton's +language) as we well might"--in the direction of _Hochstedt_--we descended, +extremely gratified; and sought the hotel and our dinner. Upon the whole, +the cathedral of Ulm is a noble ecclesiastical edifice: uniting simplicity +and purity with massiveness of composition. Few cathedrals are more uniform +in the style of their architecture. It seems to be, to borrow technical +language, all of a piece. Near it, forming the foreground of the Munich +print, are a chapel and a house surrounded by trees. The chapel is very +small, and, as I learnt, not used for religious purposes. The house (so +Professor Veesenmeyer informed me) is supposed to have been the residence +and offices of business of JOHN ZEINER, the well known _printer_, who +commenced his typographical labours about the year 1470,[25] and who +uniformly printed at Ulm; while his brother GUNTHER as uniformly exercised +his art in the city whence I am now addressing you. They were both natives +of _Reutlingen_; a town of some note between Tubingen and Ulm. + +Let no man, from henceforth, assert that all culinary refinement ceases +when you cross the Rhine; at least, let him not do so till he has tasted +the raspberry-flavoured soufflet of the _White Stag of Ulm_. It came on the +table like unto a mountain of cream and eggs, spreading its extremities to +the very confines of the dish; but, when touched by the magic-working +spoon, it collapsed, and concentrated into a dish of moderate and seemly +dimensions. In other words, this very soufflet--considered by some as the +_crux_ of refined cookery--was an exemplification of all the essential +requisites of the culinary art: but without the _cotelette_, it would not +have satisfied appetites which had been sharpened by the air of the summit +of the tower of the cathedral. The inn itself is both comfortable and +spacious. We dined at one corner of a ball-room, upon the first floor, +looking upon a very pleasant garden. After dinner, I hastened to pay my +respects to Professor Veesenmeyer, according to appointment. I found him, +where all Professors rejoice to be found, in the centre of his library. He +had doffed the first dress in which I had seen him; and the long pipe was +reposing horizontally upon a table covered with green baize. We began a +bibliographical conversation immediately; and he shewed me, with the +exultation of a man who is conscious of possessing treasures for which few, +comparatively, have any relish--his _early printed_ volumes, upon the lower +shelf of his collection. + +Evening was coming on, and the daylight began to be treacherous for a +critical examination into the condition of old volumes. The Professor told +me he would send me a note, the next morning, of what further he possessed +in the department of early printing,[26] and begged, in the mean time, that +he might take a walk with me in the town. I accepted his friendly offer +willingly, and we strolled about together. There is nothing very +interesting, on the score of antiquities, except it be the _Rath Haus_, or +Town Hall; of which the greater part may be, within a century, as old as +the Cathedral.[27] + +On the following morning I left Ulm, well pleased to have visited the city; +and, had the time allowed, much disposed to spend another twenty-four hours +within its walls. But I had not quitted my bed (and it was between six and +seven o'clock in the morning) before my good friend the Professor was +announced: and in half a second was standing at the foot of it. He pulled +off his green cloth cap, in which I had first seen him--and I pulled off my +night cap, to return his salutation--raising myself in bed. He apologised +for such an early intrusion, but said "the duties of his situation led him +to be an early riser; and that, at seven, his business of instructing youth +was to begin." I thanked him heartily for his polite attentions--little +expecting the honour of so early a visit. He then assumed a graver +expression of countenance, and a deeper tone of voice; and added, in the +Latin language--"May it please Providence, worthy Sir, to restore you +safely, (after you shall have examined the treasures in the imperial +library of Vienna) to your wife and family. It will always gratify me to +hear of your welfare." The Professor then bowed: shut the door quickly, and +I saw him no more. I mention this little anecdote, merely to give you an +idea of the extreme simplicity, and friendliness of disposition, (which I +have already observed in more than this one instance) of the German +character. + +The day of my departure was market-day at Ulm. Having ordered the horses at +ten o'clock, I took a stroll in the market-place, and saw the several +sights which are exhibited on such occasions. Poultry, meat, vegetables, +butter, eggs, and--about three stalls of modern books. These books were, +necessarily, almost wholly, published in the German language; but as I am +fond of reading the popular manuals of instruction of every +country--whether these instructions be moral, historical, or facetious--I +purchased a couple of copies of the _Almanac Historique nomme Le_ _Messager +Boiteux_, &c: a quarto publication, printed in the sorriest chap-book +manner, at Colmar, and of which the fictitious name of _Antoine Souci, +Astronome et Hist._ stands in the title-page as the author. A wood-cut of +an old fellow with a wooden leg, and a letter in his right hand, is +intended to grace this title-page. "Do you believe (said I to the young +woman, who sold me the book, and who could luckily stammer forth a few +words of French) what the author of this work says?" "Yes, Sir, I believe +even _more_ than what he says--" was the instant reply of the credulous +vender of the tome. Every body around seemed to be in good health and good +spirits; and a more cheerful opening of a market-day could not have been +witnessed. Perhaps, to a stranger, there is no sight which makes him more +solicitous to become acquainted with new faces, in a new country, than such +a scene as this. All was hilarity and good humour: while, above, was a sky +as bright and blue as ever was introduced into an illuminated copy of the +devotional volumes printed by the father of the ULM PRESS; to wit, _John +Zeiner of Reutlingen_. + +We crossed the Danube a little after ten o'clock, and entered the +territories of the King of BAVARIA. Fresh liveries to the postilion--light +blue, with white facings--a horn slung across the shoulders, to which the +postilion applied his lips to blow a merry blast[28]all animated us: as, +upon paying the tax at the barriers, we sprung forward at a sharp trot +towards _Augsbourg_. The morning continued fine, but the country was rather +flat; which enabled us, however, as we turned a frequent look behind, to +keep the tower of the cathedral of Ulm in view even for some half dozen +miles. The distance before us now became a little more hilly: and we began +to have the first glimpse of those _forests of firs_ which abound +throughout Bavaria. They seem at times interminable. Meanwhile, the +churches, thinly scattered here and there; had a sort of mosque or globular +shaped summit, crowned by a short and slender spire; while the villages +appeared very humble, but with few or no beggars assailing you upon +changing horses. We had scarcely reached _Guenzbourg_, the first stage, and +about fourteen miles from Ulm, when we obtained a glimpse of what appeared +to be some lofty mountains at the distance of forty or fifty miles. Upon +enquiry, I found that they were a part of a chain of mountains connected +with those in the Tyrol. + +It was about five o'clock when we reached AUGSBOURG; and, on entering it, +we could not but be struck with the _painted exteriors_, and elaborate +style of architecture, of the houses. We noticed, with surprise not wholly +divested of admiration, shepherds and shepherdesses, heroes and heroines, +piazzas, palaces, cascades, and fountains--in colours rather gay than +appropriate--depicted upon the exterior walls:--and it seemed as if the +accidents of weather and of time had rarely visited these decorations. All +was fresh, and gay, and imposing. But a word about our Inn, (_The Three +Moors_) before I take you out of doors. It is very large; and, what is +better, the owner of it is very civil. Your carriage drives into a covered +gate way or vestibule, from whence the different stair-cases, or principal +doors, lead to the several divisions of the house. The front of the house +is rich and elegant. On admiring it, the waiter observed--"Yes, Sir, this +front is worthy of the reputation which the _Hotel of the Three Moors_ +possesses throughout Europe." I admitted it was most respectable. Our bed +rooms are superb--though, by preference, I always chose the upper suit of +apartments. The _caffe_ for dining, below, is large and commodious; and I +had hardly bespoke my first dinner, when the head-waiter put the +_travelling book_ into my hands: that is, a book, or _album_, in which the +names and qualities of all the guests at that inn, from all parts of +Europe, are duly registered. I saw the names of several of my countrymen +whom I well knew; and inscribed my own name, and that of my companion, with +the simplest adjuncts that could be devised. In doing so, I acted only +according to precedent. But the boast and glory of this Inn is its GALLERY +OF PICTURES: for sale. The great ball-room, together with sundry corridores +and cabinets adjoining, are full of these pictures; and, what renders the +view of them more delectable, is, the _Catalogue_:--printed in the _English +language_, and of which a German is the reputed author. + +My attention, upon first running over these pictures was, unluckily, much +divided between them and the vehicle of their description. If I turned to +the number, and to the description in the printed catalogue, the language +of the latter was frequently so whimsical that I could not refrain from +downright laughter.[29] However, the substance must not be neglected for +the shadow; and it is right that you should know, in case you put your +travelling scheme of visiting this country, next year, into execution, that +the following observations may not be wholly without their use in directing +your choice--as well as attention--should you be disposed to purchase. Here +is _said_ to be a portrait of _Arcolano Armafrodita_, a famous physician at +Rome in the XVth century, by _Leonardo da Vinci_. Believe neither the one +nor the other. There are some _Albert Durers_; one of the _Trinity,_ of the +date of 1523, and another of the _Doctors of the Church_ dated 1494: the +latter good, and a choice picture of the early time of the master. A +portrait of an old man, kit-cat, _supposed_ by _Murillo_. Two ancient +pictures by _Holbein_ (that is, the _Father_ of Hans Holbein) of the +_Fugger family_--containing nine figures, portraits, of the size of life: +dated 1517 and deserving of notice. An old woman veiled, half-length, by +_J. Levens_: very good. Here are two _Lucas Cranachs_, which I should like +to purchase; but am fearful of dipping too deeply into Madame Francs's +supplemental supply. One is a supposed portrait (it is a mere supposition) +of _Erasmus_ and his mistress; the other is an old man conversing with a +girl. As specimens of colouring, they are fine--for the master; but I +suspect they have had a few retouches. Here is what the catalogue calls "A +_fuddling-bout. beautyful small piece, by Rembrand_:" nº. 188: but it is +any thing but a beautiful piece, and any thing but a Rembrandt. + +There is a small picture, said to be by _Marchessini_, of "Christ dragged +to the place of execution." It is full of spirit, and I think quite +original. At first I mistook it for a _Rubens_; and if Marchessini, and not +Otho Venius, had been his master, this mistake would have been natural. I +think I could cull a nosegay of a few vivid and fragrant flowers, from this +graphic garden of plants of all colours and qualities. But I shrewdly +suspect that they are in general the off-scourings of public or private +collections; and that a thick coat of varnish and a broad gilt frame will +often lead the unwary astray. + +While I am upon the subject of _paintings_, I must take you with me to the +TOWN HALL ... a noble structure; of which the audience room, up one pair of +stairs--and in which Charles V. received the deputies respecting the famous +_Augsbourg Confession of Faith_, in 1530,--is, to my taste, the most +perfectly handsome room which I have ever seen. The wainscot or sides are +walnut and chestnut wood, relieved by beautiful gilt ornaments. The ceiling +is also of the same materials; but marked and diversified by divisions of +square, or parallelogram, or oval, or circular, forms. This ceiling is very +lofty, for the size of the room: but it is a fault (if it be one) on the +right side. I should say, that this were a chamber worthy of the cause--and +of the actors--in the scene alluded to. It is thoroughly imperial: grave, +grand, and yet not preposterously gorgeous. + +Above this magnificent room is the PICTURE GALLERY. It is said to receive +the overflowings of the gallery of Munich--which, in turn, has been +indebted to the well known gallery of Dusseldorf for its principal +treasures. However, as a receiver of cast-off apparel, this collection must +be necessarily inferior to the parent wardrobe, yet I would strongly +recommend every English Antiquary--at all desirous of increasing his +knowledge, and improving his taste, in early German art--to pay due +attention to this singular collection of pictures at Augsbourg. He will see +here, for the first time in Bavaria--in his route from the capital of +France--productions, quite new in character, and not less striking from +boldness of conception and vigor of execution. Augsbourg may now be +considered the soil of the _Elder Holbein_, _Hans Burgmair_, _Amberger_, +and _Lucas Cranach_. Here are things, of which Richardson never dreamt, and +which Walpole would have parted with three fourths of his graphic +embellishments at Strawberry Hill to have possessed. Here are also +portraits of some of the early Reformers, of which an excellent Divine (in +the vicinity of Hackney church) would leap with transport to possess +copies, wherewith to adorn his admirable collection of English +ecclesiastical history. Here, too, are capricious drolleries, full of +character and singularity--throwing light upon past manners and +customs--which the excellent PROSPERO would view with ... an almost +coveting eye! + +But to be more particular; and to begin with the notice of a curious +performance of John, or the ELDER HOLBEIN. It is divided, like many of the +pictures of the old German masters, into three compartments. The _Nativity_ +occupies one; the _Assumption_ another: and the decapitation of _St. +Dorothy_ the third. In the Assumption, the Trinity, composed of three male +figures, is introduced as sanctifying the Virgin--who is in front. Below +this group is the church of "_Maria Maior_," having two bells in the +steeple; upon one of which, in the act of being tolled, is the date of +1499: upon the other, in a quiescent state, are the words HANS HOLBEIN: +with the initial L.B. to the right. To the left, at bottom, is the +inscription HIE LITBE GRA; to the right, below, on a piece of stone, the +initial H. The third piece in this composition, the death of St. Dorothy, +exhibits a sweetly-drawn and sweetly coloured countenance in that of the +devoted Saint. She is kneeling, about to receive the uplifted sword of the +executioner; evincing a firmness, yet meekness of resignation, not unworthy +the virgin martyrs of the pencils of Raphael and Guido. Her hair is long, +and flows gracefully behind. A little boy, habited in a whimsical jacket, +offers her a vase filled with flowers. The whole picture is rich and mellow +in its colouring, and in a fine state of preservation. + +Another piece, by the same uncommon artist, may be also worth particular +notice. It is a miscellaneous performance, divided into three compartments; +having, in the upper part of the first, a representation of the Agony in +the Garden of Gethsemane. Our Saviour is placed in a very singular +situation, within a rock. The comforting angel appears just above him. +Below is the Pope, in full costume, in the character of St. Peter, with a +key in his left hand, and in his right a scroll; upon the latter of which +is this inscription: "_Auctoritate aplica dimitto vob omia +pcta_"[30] The date of 1501 is below. This picture, which is exceedingly +gorgeous, is in the purest state of preservation. Another compartment +represents our Saviour and the Virgin surrounded by male and female +martyrs. One man, with his arms over his head, and a nail driven through +them into his skull, is very striking: the head being well drawn and +coloured. To the left, are the Pope, Bishops, and a Cardinal between St. +Christopher and a man in armour. One Bishop (_St. Erasmus_) carries a spit +in his left hand, designating the instrument whereby he suffered death. +This large picture is also in a very fine state of preservation. + +A third display of the graphic talents of the Elder Holbein (as I should +conceive, rather than of the son, when young--as is generally believed) +claims especial notice. This picture is a representation of the leading +events in the _Life of St. Paul_; having, like most other performances of +this period, many episodes or digressions. It is also divided into three +compartments; of which the central one, as usual, is the most elevated. The +first compartment, to the left, represents the conversion of St. Paul +above, with his baptism by Ananias below. In this baptism is represented a +glory round the head of St. Paul--such as we see round that of Christ. +Before them stands a boy, with a lighted torch and a box: an old man is to +the left, and another, with two children, to the right. This second old +man's head is rather fine. To the left of the baptism, a little above, is +St. Paul in prison, giving a letter to a messenger. The whole piece is, +throughout, richly and warmly coloured, and in a fine state of +preservation. The central piece has, above, ["_Basilica Sancti Pauli_."] +Christ crowned with thorns. The man, putting a sceptre in his hand, is most +singularly and not inelegantly clothed; but one or two of the figures of +the men behind, occupied in platting the crown of thorns, have a most +extraordinary and original cast of countenance and of head-dress. They +appear ferocious, but almost ludicrous, from bordering upon caricature; +while the leaves; and bullrush-like ornaments of their head-dress, render +them very singularly striking personages. To the right, Joseph of Arimathea +is bargaining for the body of Jesus; the finger of one hand placed against +the thumb of the other telling the nature of the action admirably. + +Below this subject, in the centre, is St. Paul preaching at Athens. One of +the figures, listening to the orator with folded arms, might have given the +hint to Raphael for one of _his_ figures, in a similar attitude, introduced +into the famous cartoon of the same subject. Before St. Paul, below, a +woman is sitting--looking at him, and having her back turned to the +spectator. The head-dress of this figure, which is white, is not +ungraceful. I made a rude copy of it; but if I had even coloured like * * * +I could not have done justice to the neck and back; which exhibited a tone +of colour that seemed to unite all the warmth of Titian with all the +freshness of Rubens. In the foreground of this picture, to the right, St. +Peter and St. Paul are being led to execution. There is great vigour of +conception and of touch (perhaps bordering somewhat upon caricature) in the +countenances of the soldiers. One of them is shewing his teeth, with a +savage grin, whilst he is goading on the Apostles to execution. The +headless trunk of St. Paul, with blood spouting from it, lies to the left; +the executioner, having performed his office, is deliberately sheathing his +sword. The colouring throughout may be considered perfect. We now come to +the remaining, or third compartment. This exhibits the interment of St. +Paul. There is a procession from a church, led on by the Pope, who carries +the head of the Apostle upon a napkin. The same head is also represented as +placed between the feet of the corpse, in the foreground. There is a clever +figure, in profile, of a man kneeling in front: the colouring of the robe +of a Bishop, also kneeling, is rich and harmonious. A man, with a glory +round his head, is let down in a basket, as from prison, to witness the +funeral. But let me not forget to notice the head of an old man, in the +procession, (coming out of the church-door) and turning towards the +left:--it is admirably well touched. + +I shall now give you a notion of the talents of HANS BURGMAIR--a painter, +as well as engraver, of first-rate abilities. I will begin with what I +consider to be the most elaborate specimen of his pencil in this most +curious gallery of pictures. The subject is serious, but miscellaneous: and +of the date of 1501. It consists of Patriarchs, Evangelists, Martyrs, male +and female, and Popes, &c. The Virgin and Christ are sitting, at top, in +distinguished majesty. The countenances of the whole group are full of +nature and expression: that of the Virgin is doubtless painted after a +living subject. It exhibits the prevailing or favourite _mouth_ of the +artist; which happens however to be generally somewhat awry. The cherub, +holding up a white crown, and thrusting his arm as it were towards the spot +where it is to be fixed, is prettily conceived. Upon the whole, this +picture contains some very fine heads. + +Another picture of Hans Burgmair, worth especial attention, is dated 1504. +It is, as usual, divided, into three compartments; and the subject is that +of _St. Ursula and her Virgins_. Although of less solid merit than the +preceding, it is infinitely more striking; being most singularly conceived +and executed. The gold ornaments, and gold grounds, are throughout managed +with a freedom and minuteness of touch which distinguish many of the most +beautiful early missals. In the first compartment, or division, are a group +of women round "_Sibila Ancyra Phrygiae_." The dresses of these women, +especially about the breast, are very curious. Some of their head dresses +are not less striking, but more simple; having what may be called a cushion +of gold at the back of them. In the second compartment is the +_Crucifixion_--in the warmest and richest (says my memorandum, taken on the +very spot) glow of colour. Beneath, there is a singular composition. Before +a church, is a group of pilgrims with staves and hats on; a man, not in the +attire of a pilgrim, heads them; he is habited in green, and points +backwards towards a woman, who is retreating; a book is in his left hand. +The attitudes of both are very natural. Further to the right, a man is +retreating--going through an archway--with a badge (a pair of cross keys) +upon his shoulder. The retreating woman has also the same badge. To the +left, another pilgrim is sitting, apparently to watch; further up, is a +house, towards which all the pilgrims seem to be directing their steps to +enter. A man and woman come out of this house to receive them with open +arms. The third division continues the History of St. Ursula. Her attire, +sitting in a vessel by the side of her husband Gutherus, is sumptuous in +the extreme. I would have given four ducats for a copy of it, but Mr. Lewis +was otherwise engaged. A Pope and Cardinal are to the right of St. Ursula: +the whole being in a perfect blaze of splendour. Below, they are dragging +the female Saint and her virgin companions on shore, for the purpose of +decapitation. An attitude of horror, in one of the virgins, is very +striking. + +There is a small picture by Burgmair of the _Virgin and Christ_, in the +manner of the Italian masters, which is a palpable failure. The infant is +wretchedly drawn, although, in other respects, prettily and tenderly +coloured. Burgmair was out of his element in subjects of dignity, or rather +of _repose_. Where the workings of the mind were not to be depicted by +strong demarcations of countenance, he was generally unsuccessful. Hence it +is, that in a subject of the greatest repose, but at the same time +intensity of feeling--the _Crucifixion_--this master, in a picture here, of +the date of 1519, has really outdone himself: and perhaps is not to be +excelled by _any_ artist of the same period. I could not take my eyes from +this picture--of which the figures are about half the size of life. It is +thus treated. Our Saviour has just breathed his dying exclamation--"it is +finished." His head hangs down--cold, pale death being imprinted upon every +feature of the face. It is perhaps a painfully-deadly countenance: copied, +I make no doubt, from nature. St. Anne, Mary, and St. John, are the only +attendants. The former is quite absorbed in agony--her head is lowly +inclined, and her arms are above it. (The pattern of the drapery is rather +singular). Mary exhibits a more quiet expression: her resignation is calm +and fixed, while her heart seems to be broken. But it is in the figure and +countenance of _St. John_, that the artist has reached all that an artist +_could_ reach in a delineation of the same subject. The beloved disciple +simply looks upwards--upon the breathless corpse of his crucified master. +In that look, the world appears to be for ever forgotten. His arms and +hands are locked together, in the agony of his soul. There is the sublimest +abstraction from every artificial and frivolous accompaniment--in the +treatment of this subject--which you can possibly conceive. The background +of the picture is worthy of its nobler parts. There is a sobriety of +colouring about it which Annibal Caracci would not have disdained to own. I +should add, that there is a folding compartment on each side of the +principal subject, which, moving upon hinges, may be turned inwards, and +shut the whole from view. Each of these compartments contains one of the +two thieves who were crucified with Our Saviour. There is a figure of S. +Lazarus below one of them, which is very fine for colour and drawing. + +The last, in the series of old pictures by German masters, which I have +time to notice, is an exceedingly curious and valuable one by CHRISTOPHER +AMBERGER. It represents _the Adoration of the Magi_. There are throughout +very successful attempts at reflected light; but what should set this +picture above all price, in my humble estimation, is a portrait--and the +finest which I remember to have seen--of MELANCTHON:--executed when he was +in the vigour of life, and in the full possession of physiognomical +expression. He is introduced in the stable just over those near the Virgin, +who are coming to pay their homage to the infant Christ: and is habited in +black, with a black cap on. Mr. Lewis made the following rough copy of the +head in pencil. To the best of my recollection, there is _no engraving_ of +it--so that you will preserve the enclosed for me, for the purpose of +having it executed upon copper, when I reach England. It is a countenance +full of intellectual expression. + +[Illustration] + +Of the supposed _Titians_, _Caraccis_, _Guidos_, _Cignanis_, and _Paolo +Veroneses_, I will not presume to say one word; because I have great doubts +about their genuineness, or, at any rate, integrity of condition. I looked +about for _Albert Durer_, and _Lucas Cranach_, and saw with pleasure the +portraits of my old friends _Maximilian I._ and _Charles V._ by the +former--and a _Samson and Dalila_ by the latter: but neither, I think, in +the very first rate style of the artist. + +There was a frightful, but expressive and well coloured, head of a Dwarf, +or Fool, of which Mr. Lewis took a pencil-copy; but it is not of sufficient +importance to enclose in this despatch. It is the EARLY GERMAN SCHOOL of +Art which is here the grand and almost exclusive feature of +attraction--speaking in an antiquarian point of view. ReIchard estimates +the number of these pictures at _twelve hundred_, but I should rather say +_seven hundred_. + +I find, however, that it will be impossible to compress all my _Augsbourg_ +intelligence in one epistle; and so I reserve the remainder for another +opportunity. + + +[23] [Several years have elapsed since I have received a letter from Mons. + Le Bret. Is he alive? If he be living, let him be assured of my + unalterable and respectful attachment: and that I have unfeigned + pleasure in annexing a fac-simile of his AUTOGRAPH--from a letter to + me of the date of June 8th 1819: a letter, which I received on the + 17th of the same month following--the very day of our _Roxburghe + Anniversary Dinner_. Singularly enough, this letter begins in the + following strain of bibliographical jocoseness: "_Monsieur, et tres + reverend Frere de Boocace l'Immortel!_"] + + [Illustration: Signature--f.c. Lebret] + +[24] The predominant religion is the Protestant. Indeed I may say that the + number of Catholics is exceedingly limited: perhaps, not an eighth + part of the population of the town. + +[25] I presume this to be the earliest date which any of his books exhibit. + His brother GUNTHER, or GINTHER (for the name is spelt both ways in + his colophons) began to print in 1468. Lord Spencer possesses a + beautiful copy (which I obtained from the library of St. Peter's + Monastery, at Salzbourg) of _Bonaventure's Meditations upon the Life + of Christ_, of the date of 1468, printed by G. Zainer, or (Zeiner) + at Augsbourg; and considered to be the first effort of his press. + +[26] The note, above mentioned, was written in Latin: the Professor telling + me that he preferred that language to the French, as he thought he + could write it more grammatically. A _Latin note_ must be rather + a curiosity to my readers: which, as it is purely bibliographical, and + in other respects highly characteristic of the _bon-hommie_ of + the writer, shall receive a place here. After mentioning the books + above specified, the Professor goes on thus: + + "Haec paucula e pluribus notare libuit, quae reliqua temporis + angustia ostendere non permisit. Habeo enim alias, quas vocant, + editiones principes, e.g. Diogenis Laertii, Bas. 1533-4. Josephi, + Bas. 1544. fol. Jo. Chrysostomi [Greek: _peri pronoias_] + 1526-8. Ej. [Greek: peri hierosunes], ib 1525-8. Aliorum Graecorum + et Patrum. Calpurnii et Nemesiani Eclogarum editionem, ab. do. + Alex. Brassicano curatam editionem ad MS. antiquum factam et + Argent. 1519-4. impressam. Praeterea aliquot Aldinas et Juntinas + editiones, aliquot a Mich. Vascosano, Paris. factas, in quibus + Thucydidis Libri III. priores, Paris. 1548. 4. cujus margini + Lectt. Varr. e MSto adscriptae sunt, non memoratae in editione + Bipontina. AEschylus, ex edit. Franc. Robortelli, Venet. 1552. 8. + Idem ex ed. Henr. Stephani, ex offic. Henr. Stephani, 1557. 4. + Dionysii Halic. Opera Rhet. ex. ed. Rob. Stephani, Par. 1547. Fol. + Diodor. Sicul. ex edit. Henr. Stephani, 1559. Fol. + + "Pauculos Codd. MSS. e. gr. Ciceronis de Officiis, Aratoris in + Acta App. Fragmenta Liuii et Terentii ostendere tempus non + concessit: praeter eos habeo aliquot Ciceronis Orationes, Excerpta + ex Liuio, duos Historiae Griseldis, et alios minoris pretii. + + "Maximam collectionis, Bibliothecam appellare non fas est, meae + partem efficit magnus librorum et libellorum numerus ab Ao. 1500. + usque ad 1550. editorum a Reformatoribus eorumque aduersariis, qui + numerum sex millium superant, in quibus adsunt Serueti de + Trinitatis erroribus, eiusdemque Dialogi, Tomi Pasquillorum, Henr. + Corn. Agrippae aliquot opera, Lemnii Epigrammata, aliquot libelli, + Lutheri et Melancthonis manu ornati; praeterea alia Collectio + Documentorum, quorum antiquissimum est ab. A. 1181 et Epistolarum + [Greek: _autographon_], a viris doctis Saeculorum XV. XVI. + XVII. XVIII. conscriptarum, in quibus Henr. Steinhoevvelii, Raym. + Peraudi, Lutheri, Melancthonis, Zwinglii, Gruteri, Casauboni, + Ludolfi, Camerarii, Patris, Rittershusiorum, Piccarti, aliorumque. + + "Sed nolo longiore enarratione molestus esse, ne vanus esse + uidear, a quo vitio nemo me alienior est. Vt divina providentia + iter prosperum esse iubeat, est, quod ex animo TIBI, VIR--precatur + + Vlmae, + Aug. + MDCCCXVIII. + + [Illustration: Signature] + + P.S. Et TIBI praesenti, et superiora heri nocte et somno ingruente + scribens referre omiseram, esse mihi ex XXII. libris _ab + Academia Veneta, della Fama dicta_, editis XV. Omnes adeo sunt + rari, ut vel instructissimae bibliothecae vix aliquot eorum + habeant. Addo _germanicam Sixti Papae Bullae datae 1474 + versionem,_ sine dubio Vlmae eodem anno impressam, et quinque + foliis constantem; quam apud me vidisti." + + The Professor, with the above note, was also so obliging as to present + me with a copy of his "_Specimen Historico-Litterarium de Academia + Veneta_. Qua Scholarchae et Vniversum Gymnasii quod Ulmae floret + Consilium Maecenates Patronos Fautores ejusdem Gymnasii ad Orationem + aditialem A.D. XXIV. Febr. A. 1794, habendam officiose atque decenter + invitant."--A Latin brochure of twelve pages: "_Ulmae ex Officina + Wagneri, Patris_." + +[27] [There is an excellent lithographic print of this Rath Haus, which I + possess.] + +[28] The postboys in the Duchy of Baden, and in the territories of + Wuertemberg, have also horns; but I never could get any thing, in the + character of a tune, performed by either of them. The moment you enter + BAVARIA, you observe a greater elasticity of character. [The ARMS of + Bavaria head the first page of this third volume of my Tour.] + +[29] The reader may try the effect of perusing the following articles + (taken from this printed catalogue) upon his own muscles. The + performance, as I suspect, is by a native of Augsbourg. + + 75. _Portrait of Justus Lipsius by Rembrand_. This head of a + singulary verity shews of draughts of a man of science: the + treatement of Clothing is most perfectful, the respiring of life, + the hands all wunder-worthy to be admired. 208. _A + hunting-piece_ of great beauty by Schneyders, the dogs seem to be + alife, the wild-fowls, a hare, toils, just as in nature. 341. + _Queen Marie Christine of Sweden_ represented in a very noble + situation of body and tranquility of mind, of a fine verity and a + high effect of clair-obscure. By Rembrand. 376. _Cromwell + Olivier_, kit-cat the size of life, a Portrait of the finest + carnation, who shews of a perfect likeness and verity, school of + Vandyk, perhaps by himself. 398. Portrait of _Charles the first + king of England_ (so many Portraits of famous persons by Classick + painters will very seldom be found into a privat collection) good + picture by Janson van Miereveld. 399. A large and precious battle + piece representing a scene of the famous _victory by Blindheim + wonen by Marleborough_ over the frensh 1704. We see here the + portrait of this hero very resembling, he in a graceful attitude + on horsebak, is just to order a movement: a many generals and + attendance are arround him. The leaguer, the landscape, the + groups, the fighting all with the greatest thruth, there is + nothing that does not contribute to embellish this very remarcable + picture, painted by a contemporary of the evenement and famous + artist in battle pieces, George Philipp Rugendas. + +[30] This was no uncommon representation in the early period of art. "In + the church of St. Peter the Younger, at Strasbourg, about the year + 1515, there was a kind of large printed placard, with figures on each + side of it, suspended near a confessional. On one side, was a naked + Christ, removing the fire of purgatory with his cross, and sending all + those, who came out of the fire, to the Pope--who was seated in his + pontifical robes, having letters of indulgence before him. Before him, + also, knelt emperors, kings, cardinals, bishops and others: behind him + was a sack of silver, with many captives delivered from Mahometan + slavery--thanking the supreme Pontiff, and followed by clergymen + paying the ransom money to the Turks. There might also be seen + captives, at the bottom of a deep well, shut down by bars of iron; and + men, women, and children, making all manner of horrible contortions. + "Those, says the chronicler Wencker, "who saw such a piteous sight, + wept, and gave money liberally--for the possession of indulgences;--of + which the money, raised by the sale, was supposed to be applied + towards the ransom of Christian captives." HERMANN; _Notices + Historiques, &c. de Strasbourg_: vol. ii. p. 434. + + + + +LETTER IV. + + +AUGSBOURG. CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE. POPULATION. TRADE. THE +PUBLIC LIBRARY. + + +In ancient times--that is to say, upwards of three centuries ago--the CITY +OF AUGSBOURG was probably the most populous and consequential in the +kingdom of Bavaria. It was the principal residence of the noblesse, and the +great mart of commerce. Dukes, barons, nobles of every rank and degree, +became domiciled here. A thousand blue and white flags streamed from the +tops of castellated mansions, and fluttered along the then almost +impregnable ramparts. It was also not less remarkable for the number and +splendour of its religious establishments. Here was a cathedral, containing +twenty-four chapels; and an abbey or monastery (of _Saints Vlric and Afra_) +which had no rival in Bavaria for the size of its structure and the wealth +of its possessions. This latter contained a LIBRARY, both of MSS. and +printed books, of which the recent work of Braun has luckily preserved a +record;[31] and which, but for such record, would have been unknown to +after ages. The treasures of this Library are now entirely dispersed; and +Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is the grand repository of them. Augsbourg, +in the first instance, was enriched by the dilapidations of numerous +monasteries; especially upon the suppression of the order of the Jesuits. +The paintings, books, and relics, of every description, of such monasteries +as were in the immediate vicinity of this city, were taken away to adorn +the town hall, churches, capitals and libraries. Of this collection, (of +which no inconsiderable portion, both for number and intrinsic value, came +from the neighbouring monastery of Eichstadt,[32]) there has of course been +a pruning; and many flowers have been transplanted to Munich. Yet there are +_graphic_ treasures in Augsbourg well deserving the diligent search and +critical examination of the English Antiquary. The church of the +_Recollets_ has an organ which is considered among the noblest in Europe: +nor must I forget to notice the pulpit, by Eichlen, and some old pictures +in the church of St. Anne. + +[Illustration: MONASTERY OF SAINTS ULRIC & AFRA, AUGSBURG.] + +The TOWN HALL in this city, which I mentioned in my last letter, is thought +to be the finest in Germany. It was yet exceeded, as I learn, by the old +EPISCOPAL PALACE, now dismembered of its ancient dimensions, and divided +into public offices of government. The principal church, at the end of the +_Maximilian Street_, is that which once formed the chief ornament of the +famous Abbey of Sts. Ulric and Afra.[33] I should think that there is no +portion of the present building older than the fourteenth century; while it +is evident that the upper part of the tower is of the middle of the +sixteenth. It has a nearly globular or mosque-shaped termination--so common +in the greater number of the Bavarian churches. It is frequented by +congregations both of the Catholic and Protestant persuasion; and it was +highly gratifying to see, as I saw, human beings assembled under the same +roof, equally occupied in their different forms of adoration, in doing +homage to their common Creator. It was also pleasing, the other day, to +witness, upon some high religious festival, the crowds of respectable and +well-dressed people (chiefly females) who were issuing from the Church just +above mentioned. It had quite an English Sunday appearance. I have said +that these females were "well dressed"--I should, rather have said superbly +dressed: for their head-ornaments--consisting of a cap, depressed at top, +but terminating behind in a broad bow--are usually silk, of different +colours, entirely covered with gold or silver gauze, and spangles. The hair +appeared to be carefully combed and plaited, either turned up in a broad +mass behind, or terminating in ringlets. I asked the price of one of the +simplest of these caps--worn by the common order of servants--and found it +to be little less than a guinea. But they last long, and the owners attach +some importance to them. + +Augsbourg was once distinguished for great learning and piety, as well as +for political consequence; and she boasts of a very splendid +_martyrological roll_.[34] At the present day, all is comparatively dull +and quiet; but you cannot fail to be struck with the magnificence of many +of the houses, and the air of importance hence given to the streets; while +the paintings upon the outer walls add much to the splendid effect of the +whole. The population of Augsbourg is supposed to amount to about thirty +thousand. In the time of Maximilian, and Charles V. it was, I make no +doubt, twice as numerous. + +Of the TRADE of Augsbourg, I am not enabled to transmit any very flattering +details. Silks, stuffs, dimity, (made here for the first time) and +jewellery, are the chief commodities; but for the _latter_, connected with +articles of dress, there is rather a brisk demand. The reputation of the +manufactory of _Seethaler_, is deserving of mention. In the repository of +this respectable tradesman you will find varieties of every description: +rings, buckles, clasps, bracelets, and images of Saints, of peculiar and +interesting forms. Yet they complain here of stagnation of commerce in +almost every one of its branches: although they admit that the continuance +of peace will bring things comfortably round again. The late war exhausted +both the population and the treasury of Bavaria. They do a good stroke of +business in the concerns of the bank: and this is considered rather a +famous place for the management of letters and bills of exchange. With +respect to the _latter_, some singular customs and privileges are, I +understand, observed here: among others, if a bill become due on a +_Wednesday_, eight days of grace are invariably allowed. + +It was the thoughts of the PUBLIC LIBRARY alone that afforded the chief +comfort to the depressed state of my spirits, from the excessive heat of +the day. What I might _do_, and at last, what I had _done_, within the +precincts of that same library, was sure to be my greatest solace during +the evening rambles near the ramparts. The good fortune which attended me +at Stuttgart, has followed to this place. Within two yards' length of me +repose, at this present instant, the first _Horace_, and the finest copy +imaginable of the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of Prince Radzivil--together +with a _Latin Bible_ of 1475, by _Frisner and Sensenschmidt_, in two +enormous folio volumes, of an execution of almost unparalleled +magnificence. These are no common stimulants to provoke appetite. It +remains to see whether the banquet itself be composed of proportionably +palatable ingredients. + +On leaving Stuttgart, M. Le Bret told me that Messrs. BEYSCHLAG and MAY +were the principal librarians or curators of the Public Library of this +place; and that I should find them intelligent and pleasant gentlemen. +Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm confirmed this statement. I had a letter from +the latter, to the Rector Beyschlag, which procured me an immediate +entrance into the library. The Rector's coadjutor, Professor May, was also +most prompt to shew me every rarity. In the countenance of the _latter_, I +saw, what you could not fail to call that of a handsome-looking English +gentleman. I had never before so vehemently desired to speak the German +language, or for my new acquaintance to speak my own. However, the French +tongue was the happy medium of imparting my ideas and propositions to both +the gentlemen in question; and we had hardly exchanged half a dozen +sentences, when I opened what I considered (and what eventually turned out +to be) a well directed fire upon the ancient volumes by which I was at the +time surrounded. + +The exterior of this library has a monastic form. The building is low and +unpretending, having an octangular tower, up the staircase of which you +mount to the library. It is situated within a stone's throw of the High +Street. The interior of the library is not less unpretending than its +exterior: but in a closet, at the hither end, (to the left on entering) are +preserved the more ancient, choice, and curious volumes. In one compartment +of this cabinet-like retreat are contained the _books printed at Augsbourg_ +in the infancy of the press of this town:[35] a collection, extremely +creditable in itself and in its object; and from which, no consideration, +whether of money, or of exchange for other books, would induce the curators +to withdraw a volume. Of course I speak not of _duplicates_ of the early +Augsbourg press. Two comparatively long rooms, running in parallel lines, +contain the greater part of the volumes of the public library; and amongst +them I witnessed so many genuine, fair, and original conditioned copies of +literary works, of the early period of the Reformation, that I almost +sighed to possess them--except that I knew they could not possibly pay the +expenses of conveyance. + +But for the "well directed fire" above alluded to. It produced a +_capitulation_ respecting the following articles--which were selected by +myself from the boudoir just mentioned, and about which neither mystery was +observed nor secrecy enjoined. In fact, the contract, of the venders was to +be submitted to, and sanctioned by, the supreme magistracy of the place. +The Rector Beyschlag hath much of merriment and of wit in his composition. +"Now, Sir,"--observed he--"bring those treasures forward which we can +spare, and let us afterwards settle about their value: ourselves affixing a +price." I desired nothing better. In consequence forth came the _first_ +(quarto) _Horace_, without date or place, fair, sound, and perfect: the +_Familiar Epistles of Cicero_ of the date of 1469, by S. and Pannartz, in a +condition perfectly unparalleled in every respect; the _Latin Bible_ of +_Frisner and Sensenschmidt_ of 1475, in an equally desirable and pristine +condition;[36] the _Polish Protestant Bible_ of 1563, with its first +rough-edged margins and in wooden binding; _St. Jerom's Epistles_, printed +_at Parma_, by _A. de Portilia_--most captivating to the eye; with a +curious black-letter broadside, in Latin sapphics, pasted in the interior +of the cover; the _History of Bohemia, by Pope Pius II_, of 1475, as fresh +and crackling as if it had just come from the printer: _Schuzler's edition +of the Hexameron of Ambrosius_, 1472: the _Hungarian Chronicle_ of 1485.... +"Ohe jam satis est...." for one bargain, at least,--methinks I hear you +remark. + +It may be so; but the measure must be fuller. Accordingly, after having +shot off my great guns, I brought my howitzers into play. Then commenced a +pleasant and not unprofitable parley respecting little grammatical tracts, +devotional manuals, travels, philology, &c. When lo!--up sprung a +delightful crop of _Lilies_, _Donatuses_, _Mandevilles_, _Turrecrematas_, +_Brandts_, _Matthews of Cracow_--in vellum surcoats, white in colour, firm +in substance, and most talkative in turning over their leaves! These were +mere _florin_ acquisitions: the preceding were paid for in heavy metal of a +_golden_ hue. It is not fair to betray all that took place upon this +Cockerian transaction; but there may be no harm in mentioning that my purse +was lightened by upwards of 100 louis d'or. My spirits were lightened in +the same proportion. Neither venders nor vendee grieved at the result. +Professor May was most joyous; and although the Rector Beyschlag was +sonorous in voice, restless in action, and determined in manner--about +fixing an alarmingly high price upon the _first Horace_--yet, by degrees, +he subsided into a softer note, and into a calmer action--and the Horace +became _mine_ by a sort of contre-projet proposition. + +Nothing would please Professor May but that I must go home with him, and +try my luck in purchasing a few similar rarities out of his _own_ +collection. I did so. Madame Francs' supplemental supply became gradually +diminished, and I began to think that if I went on in this manner I should +not only never reach _Vienna_, but not even _Munich_. This doubt was +frankly stated to my book-guardians; and my _ducats_ were immediately +commuted into _paper_. The result will doubtless prove the honour of the +purchaser; for I have drawn upon a quarter which I had exclusively in view +when I made the bargain, and which was never known to fail me. "Surely," +thought I to myself as I returned to my hotel, "Messrs. Beyschlag and May +are among the most obliging and the most enlightened of their fraternity." + +I returned to the Public Library the next morning, as well to conclude a +bargain for an exchange of books for certain recent bibliographical +publications, as to take a list of a few of the more rare, fine, and +curious volumes, in their own collection, which were destined _always_ to +retain their situations. + +They have, very properly, the FIRST BOOK PRINTED AT AUGSBOURG: namely, +_Aurbach's Meditations upon the Life of Christ_, of the date of 1468, +printed by _Gunther Zainer_. But one of the most uncommon books examined by +me was "_Augustinus Ypponensis Episcopus De Consensu Evangelistarum: In +ciuitate Langingen. Impressus. anno a partu virginis salutifero. +Millesimoquadringentesimoseptuagesimotercio. Pridie Idus. Aprilis_." The +type is very singular; half gothic and half roman. Of the printer and place +I know nothing; except that I learnt from the librarians that "_Langingen_" +is situated about ten leagues from Augsbourg, upon the Danube. I made every +effort--as well by the _ducat_ as by the _exchange_ method--to prevail upon +them to part with this book; but to no purpose. The blood-freezing reply of +Professor Veesenmeyer was here repeated--"ca reste, a ... Augsbourg." This +book is unbound. Another volume, of the same equivocal but tempting +description, was called "_Alcuinus de Trinitate_:--IMPRESSUM IN +UTTIPURRHA _Monasterio Sacto^{4} marty^{4}, Alexadri et Theodri. +Ordiis Scti Bndicti. Anno Sesquimillesimo KL. septembris_ [Hebrew]." +It is printed in a rude gothic letter; and a kind of fly leaf contains a +wood-cut portrait of Alcuin. The monastery, where this volume was printed, +is now suppressed. A pretty little volume--"as fresh as a daisy" (so says +my ms. note taken upon the spot) of the "_Hortulus Rosarium de valle +lachrymarum_" (to which a Latin ode by S. Brandt is prefixed), printed by +I. de Olpe, in 1499, in the original wooden binding--closed my researches +among the volumes executed in the fifteenth century. + +As I descended into the sixteenth century, the choice was less, although +the variety was doubtless greater. A fine genuine copy of _Geyler's +Navicula Fatuorum_, 1511, 4to. in its original binding, was quickly noted +down, and as quickly _secured_. It was a duplicate, and a ducat made it my +own. It is one of the commonest books upon the continent--although there +_was_ a time when certain bibliomaniacal madcaps, with us, pushed the +bidding for this volume up to the monstrously insane sum of L42:[37]--and +all, because it was coated in a Grolier binding! Among the theological +books, of especial curiosity, my guides directed my attention to the +following: "_Altera haec pars Testam^ti. veteris emendata est iuxta censuras +Inquisitionis Hispanicae an^o 79_. Nouu testam. recusandu omnino est; +rejicienduq. propter plurimos errores qui illius scholiis sunt +inserti." This was nothing else than the younger R. Stephen's edition of +the vulgate Bible of 1556, folio, of which the _New Testament_ was +absolutely SEALED UP. It had belonged to the library of the Jesuits. There +was a copy of Erasmus, "_Expurgatus iuxta censuram Academiae Louaniae an^o +79_." The name of the printer--which in the preceding Bible had been tried +to be _cancelled_--was here uniformly _erased_: but it was doubtless the +Basil edition of Erasmus by good old honest Froben and his sons-in-law.[38] + +What think you of undoubted proofs of STEREOTYPE PRINTING in the middle of +the sixteenth century? It is even so. What adds to the whimsical puzzle is, +that these pieces of metal, of which the surface is composed of types, +fixed and immoveable, are sometimes inserted in wooden blocks, and +introduced as titles, mottoes, or descriptions of the subjects cut upon the +blocks. Professor May begged my acceptance of a specimen or two of the +types, thus fixed upon plates of the same metal. They rarely exceeded the +height of four or five lines of text, by about four or five inches in +length. I carried away, with his permission, two proofs (not long ago +pulled) of the same block containing this intermixture of stereotype and +block-wood printing. + +I believe I have now told you all that appears worthy of being told, (as +far as my own opportunities of observation have led me) of the CITY OF +AUGSBOURG. I shall leave it (to-morrow) with regret; since a longer +residence would, I am persuaded, have introduced me to very pleasant +society, and made me acquainted with antiquities, of all kinds, well +deserving of _some_ record, however trivial. As it is, I must be content +with what the shortness of my time, and the more immediately pressing +nature of my pursuits, have brought me in contact. A sight of the +_Crucifixion by Hans Burgmair_, and the possession of the most genuine copy +of the _editio princeps of Horace_, have richly repaid all the toil and +expense of the journey from Stuttgart. The Horace, and the Protestant +Polish Bible of 1563, will be my travelling companions--at least as far as +_Munich_--from whence my next despatch will be dated.[39] I hope, indeed, +to dine at that renowned city ere "the set of to-morrow's sun." In the mean +while, adieu. + + +[31] His account of the PRINTED BOOKS in the XVth century, in the monastery + above mentioned, was published in 1786, in 2 vols. 4to. That of the + MANUSCRIPTS, in the same monastic library, was published in 1791, in 2 + vols. or rather perhaps, six parts, 4to. + +[32] Among the books in this monastery was an uncut copy of the famous + edition of the _Meditationes J. de Turrecremata_, of the date of + 1467, which is now in the Library of Earl Spencer. In Hartmann + Schedel's _Chronicon Norimbergense_, 1493, fol. CLXII, are + portraits of the Founders of the Town and Monastery of Eichstadt, or + EISTETT; together with a large wood-cut view of the town. This + monastery appears to have been situated on a commanding eminence. + +[33] [This Abbey was questionless one of the most celebrated and wealthy in + Europe. The antiquarian reader will be pleased with the OPPOSITE + PLATE--presenting a bird's eye view of it, in the year 1619--(when it + stood in its pristine splendour) from the _Monasteriologia_, + attached to the _Imagines Sanctorum_.] + +[34] In the BAVARIA SANCTA of RADERUS, 1615-27, 3 vols. folio, will be + found a succession of martyrological details--adorned by a series of + beautiful engravings by _Ralph Sadeler_. The text is in Latin, + and the author has apparently availed himself of all the accessible + authorities, in manuscript and print, which were likely to give + interest and weight to his narrative. But it seems to have been + composed rather for the sake of the ENGRAVINGS--which are generally + most admirably executed. Great delicacy and truth of drawing, as well + as elegance of grouping, are frequently discernible in them; and + throughout the whole of the compositions there is much of the air of + _Parmegiano's_ pencil; especially in the females. Sadeler makes + his monks and abbots quite _gentlemen_ in their figures and + deportment; and some of his miracles are described with great + singularity and force of effect. + +[35] Such is ZAPF'S work, entitled _Annales Typographiae Augustanae_, + 1778; 4to. republished with copious additions in 1786, two volumes, + 4to. The text of the latter is (unfortunately, for the unlearned) + printed in the German language. + +[36] [This Latin Bible came from the Eichstadt Monastery.] + +[37] _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. iii. p. 115. + +[38] See the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. ii. p. 170. &c. + +[39] [The first Horace, the Cicero Epist. ad Familiares, 1469, the Latin + Bible by Frisner and Sensenschmidt, 1475 and the Polish Bible of 1563, + (all so warmly and so justly eulogised in the above pages) have been + reposing these last ten years in the library of Earl Spencer: and + magnificent and matchless as is that library, it contains no FINER + volumes than the four preceding. I conclude this detail by subjoining + the Autographs of the two BIBLIOGRAPHICAL WORTHIES who have cut such a + conspicuous figure in the scene above described. The latter is now NO + MORE.] + + [Autographs] + + + + +LETTER V. + + +MUNICH. CHURCHES. ROYAL PALACE. PICTURE GALLERY. PUBLIC LIBRARY. + + +_Munich; Hotel of the Black Eagle; Aug. 16, 1818._ + + +MY DEAR FRIEND; + + +Behold me, now, in the capital of Bavaria: in a city remarkable for its +bustle, compared with the other German cities which I have visited, and +distinguished rather for the general creditable appearance of the houses +and public buildings, than for any peculiar and commanding remains of +antiquity. But ere I speak of the city, let me detain you for a few seconds +only with an account of my journey thither; and of some few particulars +which preceded my departure from Augsbourg. + +It turned out as I predicted. "Ere the set of sun," ensuing my last +despatch, I drove to the principal front of this large, comfortless, and +dirty inn; and partook of a dinner, in the caffe, interrupted by the +incessant vociferations of merchants and traders who had attended the +market (it being market day when I arrived), and annoyed beyond measure by +the countless swarms of flies, which chose to share my cutlet with me. + +On taking a farewell look of Augsbourg, my eyes seemed to leave unwillingly +those objects upon which I gazed. The Paintings, the Town Hall, the old +monastery of Saints Ulric and Afra, all--as I turned round to catch a +parting glance--seemed to have stronger claims than ever upon my attention, +and to reproach me for the shortness of my visit. However, my fate was +fixed--and I now only looked steadily forward to Munich; my imagination +being warmed (you will say "inflamed") with the thoughts of the countless +folios, in manuscript and in print--including _block-books_, unheard and +undreamt of--which had been described to me as reposing upon the shelves of +the Royal or PUBLIC LIBRARY. In consequence, Hans Burgmair, Albert Durer, +and the Elder Holbein were perfectly forgotten--after we had reached the +first stage, and changed horses at _Merching_. From Augsbourg to Munich is +but a pleasant and easy drive of about forty-five English miles. The last +stage, from _Fuerstenfelbruck_ to this place, is chiefly interesting; while +the two tall brick towers of the cathedral church of Notre Dame keep +constantly in view for the last seven or eight miles. A chaussee, bordered +on each side by willows, poplars, and limes, brings you--in a tediously +straight line of four or five miles--up to the very gates of MUNICH. + +At first view, Munich looks like a modern city. The streets are tolerably +spacious, the houses are architectural, and the different little squares, +_or places_, are pleasant and commodious. It is a city of business and +bustle. Externally, there is not much grandeur of appearance, even in the +palaces or public buildings, but the interiors of many of these edifices +are rich in the productions of ancient art;--whether of sculpture, of +painting, of sainted relics, or of mechanical wonders. Every body just now +is from home; and I learn that the bronzes of the Prince Royal--which are +considered to be the finest in Europe--are both out of order and out of +view. This gallant Prince loves also pictures and books: and, of the +latter, those more especially which were printed by the _Family of Aldus_. + +Upon the whole, there is something very anglicised in the appearance both +of this city and of its inhabitants. Of the latter, I have reason to speak +in a manner the most favourable:--as you shall hear by and by. But let me +now discourse (which I must do very briefly) of inanimate objects--or works +of art--before I come to touch upon human beings ... here in constant +motion: and, as it should seem--alternately animated by hope and influenced +by curiosity. The population of Munich is estimated at about 50,000. Of +course, as before, I paid my first visit to the CATHEDRAL, or mother church +of NOTRE DAME, upon the towers of which I had fixed my eyes for a whole +hour on the approach to the city. Both the nave and towers, which are of +red brick, are frightful in the extreme; without ornament: without general +design: without either meaning or expression of any kind. The towers cannot +be less than 350 feet in height: but the tops are mere pepper-boxes. No +part of this church, or cathedral, either within or without, can be older +than the middle of the fifteenth century.[40] + +The interior has really nothing deserving of particular description. But I +check myself in an instant: It _has_ something--eminently worthy of +distinct notice and the most unqualified praise. It has a monument of the +EMPEROR Louis IV. which was erected by his great-grandson Maximilian I. +Duke of Bavaria, in 1603-12. The designer of this superb mausoleum was +_Candit_: the figures are in black marble, the ornaments are in bronze; the +latter executed by the famous _Krummper_, of Weilheim. I am ignorant of the +name of the sculptor. This monument stands in the centre of the choir, of +which it occupies a great portion. It is of a square form, having, at each +corner, a soldier, of the size of life, bending on one knee and weeping: +supporting, at the same time, a small flag between his body and arm. These +soldiers are supposed to guard the ashes of the dead. Between them are +three figures, of which two stand back to back. Between these two, somewhat +more elevated, is raised the figure of the Emperor Louis IV.--dressed in +his full imperial costume. But the two figures, just mentioned, are +absolutely incomparable. One of them is _Albert V._ in armour, in his ducal +attire:[41] the other is _William V._ habited in the order of the golden +fleece. This habit consists of a simple broad heavy garment, up to the +neck. The wearer holds a drawn sword in his right hand, which is turned a +little to the right. This figure may be full six feet and a half high. The +head is uncovered; and the breadth of the drapery, together with the erect +position of the figure, and the extension of the sword, gives it one of the +most commanding, and even appalling, airs imaginable. I stood before it, +till I almost felt inclined to kneel and make obeisance. The entire +monument is a noble and consummate specimen of art: and can hardly have any +superior, of its kind, throughout Europe. + +Perhaps I should add that the interior of this Church contains twenty-four +large octagonal pillars, dividing the nave from the side aisles: and that +around these latter and the choir, there are not fewer than twenty-four +chapels, ornamented with the tombs of ancient families of distinction. This +interior is about 350 English feet in length, by about 145 in width. + +Of the other Churches, that of St. MICHAEL, attached to the _late College +of the Jesuits_,--now forming the Public Academy or University, and +containing the Public Library--is probably the most beautiful for its +simplicity of ornament and breadth of parts. Indeed at this moment I can +recollect nothing to be put in competition with it, as a comparatively +modern edifice. This interior is, as to _Roman_ architecture, what that of +St. Ouen is as to _Gothic_: although the latter be of considerably greater +extent. It is indeed the very charm of interior architecture: where all the +parts, rendered visible by an equal distribution of light, meet the eye at +the same time, and tell their own tale. The vaulted roof, full 300 English +feet in length, has not a single column to support it. Pilasters of the +Corinthian order run along each side of the interior, beneath slightly +projecting galleries; which latter are again surmounted by rows of +pilasters of the Doric order, terminating beneath the spring of the arched +roof. The windows are below the galleries. Statues of prophets, apostles, +and evangelists, grace the upper part of the choir--executed from the +characteristic designs of Candit. The pulpit and the seats are beautifully +carved. Opposite the former, are oratories sustained by columns of red +marble; and the approach to the royal oratory is rendered more impressive +by a flight of ten marble steps. The founder of this church was William V., +who lies buried in a square vault below: near which is an altar, where they +shew, on All Saints Day, the brass coffins containing the ashes of the +Princes of Bavaria. The period of the completion of this church is quite at +the end of the sixteenth century.[42] But ere I quit it, I must not fail to +direct your attention to a bronze crucifix in the interior--which is in +truth a masterpiece of art. My eye ran over the whole of this interior with +increased delight at every survey; and while the ceremony of high mass was +performing--and the censers emitted their clouds of frankincense--and the +vocal and instrumental sounds of a large congregation pervaded every +portion of the edifice--it was with reluctance (but from necessity) that I +sought the outward door, to close it upon such a combination of +attractions! + +Of the nine or ten remaining churches, it will not be necessary to notice +any other than that of St. CAETAN, built by the Electress Adelaide, and +finished about the year 1670. It was built in the accomplishment of a vow. +The pious and liberal Adelaide endowed it with all the relics of art, and +all the treasures of wealth which she could accumulate. It is doubtless one +of the most beautiful churches in Bavaria:--quite of the Italian school of +art, and seems to be a St. Peter's at Rome in miniature. The architect was +Agostino Barella, of Bologna. This church is in the form of a cross. In the +centre is a cupola, sustained by pillars of the Corinthian order. The light +comes down from the windows of this cupola in a very mellow manner; but +there was, when I saw it, rather a want of light. The nave is vaulted: and +the principal altar is beneath the dome, separating the nave from the +choir. The facade, or west front, is a building of yesterday, as it were: +namely, of 1767; but it is beautiful and striking. This church is +considered to be the richest in Munich for its collection of pictures; but +nothing that I saw there made me forget, for one moment, the Crucifixion by +Hans Burgmair.[43] I should say that the interior of this church is equally +distinguished for the justness of its proportions, the propriety of its +ornaments, and the neatness of its condition. It is an honour to the city +of Munich. + +There were, some half century ago, about a dozen more churches;--but they +have been since either destroyed or _desecrated_. From the Churches, I must +conduct you, but in a very rapid manner, to some of the public buildings; +reserving, as usual, my last and more leisurely description for the PUBLIC +LIBRARY. Of these buildings, the _Hotel de Ville_, _Theatres_, and _Royal +Residence_, are necessarily the most imposing in size, and most attractive +from their objects of public utility or amusement. The Royal Palace was +built by Maximilian I.--a name as great in the annals of Bavaria, as the +same name was in those of Austria about a century before. This palace is of +about two centuries standing: and its eastern facade measures 550 English +feet in length. It abounds, within and without, with specimens of bronze +ornaments: and two bronze lions (the work of Krummper, after the designs of +Candit) which support the shields of the Electoral houses of Bavaria and +Lorraine, have been considered superior to the Lion in the Place of. St. +Mark at Venice. This immense pile of building contains three courts. In +that of "the Fountain," to the left, under an arch, is a huge black pebble +stone, weighing nearly 400 Bavarian pounds. An old German inscription, of +the date of 1489, tells you that a certain Bavarian Duke, called +_Christopher the Leaper_, threw this same pebble stone to a considerable +distance. Near it, you observe three large nails driven into the wall. The +highest of them may be about twelve feet from the ground:--the mark which +Christopher the Leaper reached in one of his frolicksome jumps. I find they +are lovers of marvellous attainments, in Bavaria:--witness, the supposed +feat of the great Emperor Maximilian upon the parapet wall at the top of +the cathedral of Ulm.[44] + +To describe the fountains and bronze figures, in these three courts, would +be endless; but they strike you with a powerful degree of admiration--and a +survey of every thing about you, is a convincing proof that you have +entered a country where they shrink not from solidity and vastness in their +architectural achievements: while the lighter, or ornamental parts, are not +less distinguished by the grace of their design and the vigour of their +execution. Will you believe it--I have not visited, nor shall I have an +opportunity of visiting, the _Interior_? An interior, in which I am told +that there are such gems, jewels, and varieties--such miracles of nature +and of art, as equally baffle description and set competition at defiance. +As thus:--a chapel, of which the pavement is mosaic work, composed of +amethysts, jaspers, and lapis lazuli: of which the interior of its cupola +is composed of lapis lazuli, adorned with gilt bronze: wherein is to be +seen a statue of the Virgin, in a drapery of solid gold, with a crown upon +her head, composed of diamonds:--a massive golden crucifix, adorned with +precious stones--and upon which there is an inscription cut upon an emerald +an inch square: again, small altars, supported by columns of transparent +amethyst, &c. + +I will say nothing of two little caskets, studded with cameos and +turquoises, in this chapel of fairy land--(built by Maximilian I.) of which +one contains two precious pictures by Jean d'Aix la Chapelle--and the other +(of massive gold, weighing twenty-four pounds) a painting of the +resurrection and of paradise, in enamel. Even the very organ is constructed +of gold, silver, ebony, turquois and lapis lazuli ornaments; of pearls and +of coral. As to the huge altar of massive silver--adorned with cariatides, +candelabra, statues, vases, and bouquets of the same metal--and especially +the _pix_, lined with diamonds, rubies, and pearls--what shall I say of +these--ALL the fruit of the munificent spirit of MAXIMILIAN? Truly, I +would pass over the whole with an indifferent eye, to gaze upon a simple +altar of pure gold--the sole ornament of the prison of the unfortunate Mary +Queen of Scots; which Pope Leo XI. gave to William V. Elector of +Bavaria--and which bears the following inscription: + + EXILII COMES ET CARCERIS IMAGO + HAEC MARIAE STUARDAE, SCOT. REG. + FUIT, FUISSET ET CAEDIS, SI VIXISSET. + +Not less marvellous things are told of the _Jewellery_ in this palace of +wonders:--among which the BLUE DIAMOND ... attached to the order of the +Golden Fleece--which is set open, and which, opposed to the sun, emits rays +of the most dazzling lustre,--is said to be the nonpareil of coloured +precious stones. It weighs 36 carats and 144 grains. Of the _Pearls_, that +called the PALATINAT, half white and half black, is considered the greatest +curiosity; but in a cabinet is preserved the choicest of all choice +specimens of precious art and precious metals. It is a statue of _St. +George and the Dragon_, of the height of about a foot and a half, in pure +and solid gold: the horse is agate: the shield is of enamelled gold: the +dragon is jasper: the whole being thickly studded with diamonds, rubies, +emeralds, and pearls--to the number of at least two thousand! Another +cabinet contains the crowns of emperors, dukes and.... But you are already +dazzled and bewildered; and I must break off the description of this +ENCHANTED PALACE. + +What is of easy access is rarely visited. I asked several of my +acquaintance here, whether this spectacle were worth seeing?--and they as +frequently replied in the negative as in the affirmative. But the PICTURE +GALLERY I _have_ seen, and seen with attention;--although I am not likely +to pay it a second visit. I noted down what I saw: and paid particular +attention to the progress of art in the early German school of painting. I +knew that this collection had long enjoyed a great celebrity: that it had +been the unceasing object of several of the old Dukes of Bavaria to enrich +it; and that the famous Theodore, equally the admirer of books and of +pictures, had united to it the gallery of paintings collected by him at +Manheim. It moreover contained the united collections of Deux-Ponts and +Dusseldorf. This magnificent collection is arranged in seven large rooms on +the same floor. Every facility of access is afforded; and you observe, +although not so frequently as at Paris, artists at work in copying the +treasures before them. In the entrance-hall, where there is a good +collection of books upon the fine arts, are specimens by _Masaccio_, +_Garofalo_, _Ghirlandaio_, _Perugino_, _Lucas de Leyden_, _Amberger_, +_Wohlgemuth_, _Baldonetti, Aldegrave_, _Quinten Matsys_--with several +others, by masters of the same period, clearly denoting the order of time +in which they are supposed to have been executed. I was well pleased, in +this division of the old school, to recognise specimens of my old friends +Hans Burgmair and the Elder Holbein; and wished for no individual at my +elbow so much as our excellent friend W.Y. Ottley:--a profound critic in +works of ancient art, but more particularly in the early Italian and German +Schools. + +To conduct you through all these apartments, or seven rooms, with the +methodical precision of an experienced guide, is equally beyond my +inclination and ability. Much as I may admire one or two _Titians_, one or +two of the _Caracci_ school, the same number of _Veroneses_ and +_Schidones_, and a partial sprinkling of indifferent _Raffaelles_, I should +say that the boast of this collection are the pictures by _Rubens and +Vandyke_. Of the former there are some excellent portraits; but his two +easel pictures--the one, the _Fall of the Damned_, and the other the +_Beatitude of the Good_--are marvellous specimens of art. The figures, +extending from heaven to earth, in either picture, are linked, or grouped +together, in that peculiarly bold and characteristic manner which +distinguishes the pencil of the master.[45] The colouring throughout is +fresh, but mellow and harmonious. Among the larger pictures by this +renowned artist, are _Susanna and the Elders_, and _the Death of Seneca_; +the latter considered as a distinguished production. But some of the whole +length portraits, by the same hand, pleased me better. The pictures of +Rubens occupy more particularly the fourth room. Vandyke shines in the +second, sixth, and seventh rooms: in which are some charming whole length +portraits--combining, almost, the dignity of Titian with the colouring of +Rembrandt:--and yet, more natural in expression, more elegant in attitude, +and more beautiful in drawing, than you will find in the productions of +either of these latter artists. + +If the art, whether of sculpture or of painting, take not deep root, and +send forth lusty branches laden with goodly fruit, at Munich--the fault can +never be in the _soil_, but in the waywardness of the _plant_. There is +encouragement from every quarter; as far as the contemplation of art, in +all its varieties, and all its magnificence, can be said to be a stimulus +to exertion. When the re-action of a few dozen years of peace shall have +nearly obliterated the ravages and the remembrance of war--when commerce +and civil competition shall have entirely succeeded to exaction and tyranny +from a foreign force--(which it now holds forth so auspicious a promise of +accomplishing)--and when literature shall revert within its former fruitful +channels of enlightening the ignorant, gratifying the learned, and +illustrating what is obscure among the treasures of former times--then I +think Munich will be a proud and a flourishing city indeed.[46] But more of +this subject on a future occasion. + +Let us take a walk abroad--in the fields, or in the immediate vicinity of +the town--for methinks we have both had sufficient in-door occupation of +late. One of the principal places of resort, in the immediate vicinity of +Munich, is a garden--laid out after the English fashion--and of which the +late Count Rumford had the principal direction. It is really a very +pleasing, and to my taste, successful effort of art--or rather adaptation +of nature. A rapid river, or rivulet (a branch of the _Iser_) of which the +colour is a hazy or misty blue, very peculiar--runs under a small bridge +which you pass. The bed of the river has a considerable descent, and the +water runs so rapidly, as to give you the idea that it would empty itself +in a few hours. Yet--"Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis aevum." I +strolled frequently in the shady walks, and across the verdant lawns, of +this pleasant garden; wherein are also arbour-covered benches, and +embowered retreats--haunts of meditation--where + + ... voices, through the void deep sounding, seize + Th'enthusiastic ear! + +But SKELL must not be deprived of his share of praise in the construction +of this interesting pleasure ground. He was the principal active +superintendant; and is considered to have had a thorough knowledge of +_optical effect_ in the construction of his vistas and lawns. A Chinese +pagoda, a temple to Apollo--and a monument to Gessner, the pastoral +poet--the two latter embosomed in a wood--are the chief objects of +attraction on the score of art. But the whole is very beautiful, and much +superior to any thing of the kind which I have seen since leaving England. + +I told you, at the beginning of this letter, that it was market-day when we +arrived here. Mr. Lewis, who loses no opportunity of adding to the stores +of his sketch book, soon transferred a group of MARKET PEOPLE to his paper, +of which you are here favoured with a highly finished copy. The +countenances, as well as the dresses, are strongly indicative of the +general character of the German women. + +[Illustration] + +I was surprised to be told, the other day, that the city of Munich, +although lying upon a flat, apparently of several miles in circumference, +is nevertheless situated upon very lofty ground:--full twelve or thirteen +hundred feet above the level of the sea--and that the snow-charged blasts, +from the Tyrolese mountains, towards the end of autumn, render it at times +exceedingly cold and trying to the constitution. But I must now revert to +the city, and proceed at once to an account of the most interesting of ALL +the public edifices at Munich--in my very humble, and perhaps capricious, +estimation. Of course you will instantly catch at what I mean. "What, BUT +the edifice which contains THE PUBLIC LIBRARY?" 'Tis wisely conjectured; +and to this boundless region of books, of almost every age and description, +let us instantly resort: first paying our respects to the Directors and +Librarians of the establishment. + +Of the former, the BARON VON MOLL, and MR. FREDERIC SCHLICHTEGROLL are +among the principal: of the latter, Messrs. SCHERER and BERNHARD have the +chief superintendence: of all these gentlemen, more in my next.[47] At +present, suffice it to say, that I was constantly and kindly attended +during my researches by M. Bernhard--who proved himself in the frequent +discussions, and sometimes little controversies, which we had together, to +be one of the very best bibliographers I had met upon the continent. In the +bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century, he has scarcely a superior: +and I only regretted my utter ignorance of the German language, which +prevented my making myself acquainted with his treatises, upon certain +early Latin and German Bibles, written in that tongue. But it was his +kindness--his diffidence--his affability, and unremitting attention--which +called upon me for every demonstration of a sense of the obligations I was +under. It will not be easy for me to forget, either the kind-hearted +attentions or the bibliographical erudition of M. Bernhard ... + + "Quae me cunque vocant terrae." + +Be it known to you therefore, my good friend, that the PUBLIC LIBRARY at +MUNICH is attached to what was once the _College of Jesuits_; and to which +the beautiful church, described in a few preceding pages, belonged. On the +suppression of the order of Jesuits, the present building was devoted to it +by Charles Theodore in 1784: a man, who, in more than this one sense, has +deserved well of his country. Would you believe it? They tell me that there +are at least _half a hundred_ rooms filled by books and MSS. of one kind or +other--including duplicates--and that they suppose the library contains +nearer _four_, than _three hundred thousand volumes_! I scarcely know how +to credit this; although I can never forget the apparently interminable +succession of apartments--in straight lines, and in rectangular lines: +floor upon floor: even to the very summit of the building, beneath the +slanting roofs--such as I had seen at Stuttgart. But _here_ it should seem +as if every monastery throughout Bavaria had emptied itself of its +book-treasures ... to be poured into this enormous reservoir. + +But I will now begin my labours in good earnest. An oblong, narrow, +boudoir-sort of apartment, contains the more precious MSS., the block +books, and works printed upon vellum. This room is connected with another, +at right angles, (if I remember well) which receives the more valuable +works of the fifteenth century--the number of which latter, alone, are said +to amount to nearly _twenty thousand_. In such a farrago, there must +necessarily be an abundance of trash. These, however, are how under a +strict assortment, or classification; and I think that I saw not fewer than +half a dozen assistants, under the direction of M. Bernhard, hard at work +in the execution of this desirable task. + +LATIN MS. OF THE GOSPELS; _in small folio_. I have no hesitation in +ascribing this MS. to the ninth century. It is replete with evidences of +this, or even of an earlier, period. It is executed in capital letters of +silver and gold, about a quarter of an inch in height, upon a purple +ground. Of course the MS. is upon vellum. The beginning of the text is +entirely obliterated; but on the recto of the XVth leaf we read "_Explt +Breuiarium_." + +LATIN MS. of the GOSPELS; in _large folio_. This is a more superb, but more +recent, MS. than the preceding. Yet I suspect it to be not much later than +the very early part of the eleventh century. It is executed in a large, +lower-case, roman letter: somewhat bordering upon the Gothic. But the +binding, at the very outset, is too singular and too resplendent to be +overlooked. The first side of it has the crucifixion, in a sort of +parallelogram frame work--in the centre: surrounded by a double arabesque, +or Greek border, of a most beautiful form. The whole is in ivory, of a +minute and surprisingly curious workmanship. The draperies partake of the +character of late Roman art. Round this central ivory piece of carving, is +a square, brass border, with the following inscription; which, from the +character of the capital letters, (for it is wholly composed of such) is +comparatively quite modern: + + GRAMMATA QVI QVERIT COGNOSCERE VERE + HOC MATHESIS PLENE QVADRATVM PLAVDAT HABERE + EN QUI VERACES SOPHIE FULSERE SEQUACES + ORNAT PERFECTAM REX HEINRICH STEMMATE SECTAM. + +In the outer border are precious stones, and portraits, with inscriptions +in Greek capital letters. These portraits and inscriptions seem to me to be +perfect, but barbarous, specimens of Byzantine art. Around the whole are +the titles of the Four Gospels in coeval capital letters. The general +effect of this first side of the book-cover, or binding, is perfect--for +antiquarian genuineness and costliness. The other side of the binding +contains representations of the cardinal virtues, in brass, with the lamb +in the centre: but they are comparatively modern. The interior of this book +does not quite accord with its exterior. It is in pure condition, in every +respect; but the art is rather feeble and barbarous. The titles to the +Gospels are executed upon a purple ground. The larger subjects, throughout +the illuminations, are executed with freedom, but the touch is heavy and +the effect weak. The gold back grounds are rather sound than resplendent. +Yet is this MS., upon the whole, a most costly and precious volume. + +LATIN PSALTER. Probably of the latter part of the twelfth century. The text +is executed in a lower-case gothic. In the Calendar of Saints are found the +names of Edward the Martyr, Cuthbert, Guthlac, Etheldrith, and Thomas a +Becket. I think I am fully justified in calling this one of the richest, +freshest, and most highly ornamented PSALTERS in existence. The +illuminations are endless, and seem to comprise the whole history of the +Bible. In the representations of armour, we observe the semicircular and +slightly depressed helmet, and no nasels. I must now lay before you a MS. +of a very different description--called + +The ROMANCE OF SIR TRISTRANT;[48] in verse. This ms. is wholly in the +German language; written in the XIIIth century, and containing fifteen +illuminations. M. Scherer, the Head Librarian, was so obliging as to +furnish me with an account of it; having himself translated, as literally +as possible, the original text into our own language. + +I shall now put together a few miscellaneous notices, taken, like all the +preceding, from the articles themselves--and which you will find to relate +chiefly to books of Missals and Offices, &c. I shall begin, however, with a +highly illuminated MS. called + +The TWELVE SIBYLS. This beautiful book is doubtless of the XVth century. It +begins with a representation of the "_Sibila Persica_." The principal merit +of these illuminations may, by some, be thought to consist in their +_freshness_; but others will not fail to remark, that the accompaniments of +these figures, such as the chairs on which they sit, and the pillars which +form the frame work of the pieces, are designed and executed in a style of +art worthy of the Florentine School of this period. Every Sibyl is +succeeded by a scriptural subject. If the faces of these figures were a +little more animated and intelligent, this book would be a charming +specimen of art of the XVth century. The _Erythraean Sibyl_ holds a white +rose very prettily in her left hand. The _Agrippinian Sibyl_ holds a whip +in her left hand, and is said "to have prophesied XXX years concerning the +flagellation of Christ." This volume is a thin quarto, in delightful +condition; bound in yellow morocco, but a _sufferer_ by the binding. + +A CALENDAR. This is a pretty little duodecimo volume, containing also short +prayers to Christ; and embellished by a representation of the several +months in the calendar. Each illumination has a border, and its apposite +characteristic subject attached to the month. Among the latter, those of +October and November are vigorously touched and warmly finished. A picture +of the Deluge follows December. The scription is in a neat roman character. +This book is bound in lilac velvet, with silver clasps, and preserved in a +yellow morocco case. + +OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN. An exquisite little octavo or rather duodecimo; bound +in silver, with coloured ornaments inlaid. The writing, in small roman, +shews an Italian calligraphist. The vellum is white, and of the most +beautiful quality. The text is surrounded by flowers, fruits, insects, +animals, &c. The initial letters are sparkling, and ornamented in the +arabesque manner. But the compositions, or scriptural subjects, are the +most striking. Among the more beautiful specimens of high finishing, is the +figure of Joseph--with the Virgin and Child--after the subject of the +Circumcision. Upon the whole, the colours are probably too vivid. The +subjects seem to be copies of larger paintings; and there is a good deal of +French feeling and French taste in their composition. The rogue of a binder +has shewn his love of cropping in this exquisite little volume. The date of +1574 is upon the binding. + +MISSAL: beginning with the _Oratio devota ad faciem dni nostri ihu +xpi_--A most exquisite volume in 8vo.: bound in black fish skin, with +silver clasps of an exceedingly graceful form, washed with gold, and +studded with rubies, emeralds, and other coloured stones. The head of +Christ, with a globe in his hand, faces the beginning of the text. This +figure has a short chin, like many similar heads which I have seen: but the +colours are radiant, and the border, in which our Saviour is bearing his +cross, below, is admirably executed. The beginning of St. John's Gospel +follows. The principal subjects have borders, upon a gray or gold ground, +on which flowers are most beautifully painted: and some of the subjects +themselves, although evidently of Flemish composition, are most brilliantly +executed. There is great nature, and vigour of touch, in the priests +chanting, while others are performing the offices of religion. The +_Annunciation_ is full of tenderness and richness; and, in the _Christ in +the manger_--from whose countenance, while lying upon the straw, the light +emanates and shines with such beauty upon the face of the Virgin--we see +the origin perhaps of that effect which has conferred such celebrity upon +the NOTTE of CORREGIO. What gives such a thorough charm to this book, is, +the grace, airiness, and truth of the flowers--scattered, as it were, upon +the margins by the hand of a faery. They have perhaps suffered somewhat by +time: but they are truth and tenderness itself. The writing is a large +handsome square gothic. + +OFFICE OF THE VIRGIN: bound in massive silver--highly ornamented, in the +arabesque manner, and washed with gold. The back is most ingeniously +contrived. But if the exterior be so attractive, the interior is not less +so--for such a sweetly, and minutely ornamented, book, is hardly to be +seen. The margins are very large and the text is very small: only about +fifteen lines, by about one inch and three quarters wide. Upon seeing the +margins, M. Scherer, the head-librarian, exclaimed, "I hope that satisfies +you!" But they are by no means disproportionate--and the extraordinary +colour and quality of the vellum render them enchanting. We come now to the +ornaments. These are clusters of small flowers, strung in a pearl-like +manner, and formed or grouped into the most pleasing and tasteful shapes. +The figures are small, with a well indicated outline. How pretty are the +little subjects at the foot of each month of the Calendar! And how totally +different from the common-place stiffness, and notorious dullness, of the +generality of Flemish pieces of this character! This book has no superior +of its kind in Europe; and is worthy, on a small scale, of what we see in +the superb folios of Matthias Corvinus.[49] + +A BOOK OF PRAYERS--almost entirely spoilt by damp and rottenness within. I +should think, from the writing and illuminations, it was executed between +the years 1450 and 1480. The outside is here the principal attraction. It +is a very ancient massive binding, in silver. On each side is a sacred +subject; but on that, where the Crucifixion is represented, the figure to +the right has considerable expression. At the bottom of each compartment +are the arms of Bavaria and of the Dukes of Milan. This is a precious +treasure in its way. + +The present is probably the proper place to notice the _principal gem_--in +the department of illuminated books of devotion--preserved in the Royal +Library at Munich:--I mean, what is called, ALBERT DURER'S PRAYER BOOK. +This consists merely of a set of marginal embellishments in a small folio +volume, of which the text, written in a very large lower-case gothic +letter, forms the central part. These embellishments are said to be by the +hand of ALBERT DURER: although, if I mistake not, there is a similar +production, or continuation, by LUCAS CRANACH. They are executed in colours +of bistre, green, purple, or pink; with a very small portion of shadow--and +apparently with a reed pen. Nothing can exceed the spirit of their +conception, the vigour of their touch, and the truth both of their drawing +and execution. They consist chiefly of _capriccios_, accompanied by the +figure or figures of four Saints, &c. They afford one addition to the very +many proofs, which I have already seen, of the surprising talents of Albert +Durer: and, if I remember rightly; this very volume has been lithographised +at Munich, and published in our own country.[50] + +Descending lower in the chronological order of my researches, I now come to +the notice of four very splendid and remarkable folio volumes, comprising +only the text of the SEVEN PENITENTIAL PSALMS: and which exhibit +extraordinary proofs of the united skill of the _Scribe_, the _Musician_, +the _Painter_, and the _Book Binder_--all engaged in the execution of these +volumes. Of each of these artists, there is a PORTRAIT; but among them, +none please my fancy so much as that of GASPAR RITTER, the book-binder. All +these portraits are executed in body colour, in a slight but bold manner, +and appear to me to be much inferior to the general style of art in the +smaller and historical compositions, illustrative of the text of the book. +But Gaspar Ritter well merits a distinct notice; for these volumes display +the most perfect style of binding, which I have yet seen, of the sixteenth +century. They are in red morocco, variegated with colours, and secured by +clasps. Every thing about them is firm, square, knowing and complete. The +artist, or painter, to whom these volumes are indebted for their chief +attraction, was John MIELICH; a name, of which I suspect very little is +known in England. His portrait bears the date of 1570. + +Looking fairly through these volumes--not for the sake of finding fault, or +of detecting little lapses from accuracy of drawing, or harmony of +composition--I do not hesitate one moment to pronounce the series of +embellishments, which they contain, perfectly unrivalled--as the production +of the same pencil. Their great merit consists in a prodigious freedom of +touch and boldness of composition. The colouring seems to be purposely made +subordinate. Figures the most minute, and actions the most difficult to +express, are executed in a ready, off-hand manner, strongly indicative, of +the masterly powers of the artist. The subjects are almost interminable in +number, and endless in variety. + +I shall now proceed at once to an account of the xylographical productions, +or of BLOCK BOOKS in the public library of this place; and shall begin with +a work, of which (according to my present recollection) no writer hath yet +taken notice. It is a _Life of Christ_, in small quarto, measuring scarcely +five inches by four. The character of the type is between that of Pfister +and the Mazarine Bible, although rather more resembling the latter. Each +side of the leaf has text, or wood cut embellishments. The first eight +pages contain fifteen lines in a page: the succeeding two pages only +thirteen lines; but the greater number of the pages have fourteen lines. + +It is precisely the dotted ground, in the draperies, that impresses me with +a notion of the antiquity of these cuts. Such a style of art is seen in all +the earlier efforts of wood engraving, such as the _St. Bernardinus_ +belonging to M. Van-Praet, and the prints pasted within the covers of Mr. +George Nicol's matchless copy of the Mazarine Bible, upon vellum, in its +original binding.[51] M. Bernhard also shewed me, from his extraordinary +collection of early prints, taken from the old MS. volumes in this library, +several of this precise character; and to which we may, perhaps with +safety, assign the date of 1460 at the latest. I have been particular in +the account of this curious little volume, not so much because it is kept +in a case, and considered to be _unique_, as because, to the best of my +recollection, no account of it is to be found in any bibliographical +publication. + +EXHORTATION AGAINST THE TURKS, &c.: of the supposed date of 1455. This is +the singular tract, of which Baron Aretin (the late head librarian of this +establishment) published an entire fac-simile; and which, from the date of +M.cccc.lv appearing at the bottom line of the first page, was conceived to +be of that period. M. Bernhard, however,--in an anonymous pamphlet--proved, +from some local and political circumstances introduced, or referred to, in +the month of _December_--in the Calendar attached to this exhortation--that +the _genuine_ date should rather be 1472. This brochure is also considered +to be unique. It is a small quarto, of six leaves only, of which the first +leaf is blank. The type is completely in the form of that of Pfister, and +the paper is unusually thick. At the bottom of the first leaf it is +observed, in ms. "_Liber eximiae raritatis et inter cimelia bibliothecae +asservandus. F. Er_." + +ARS MEMORANDI, &c. Here are not fewer than _five copies_ of this well +known--and perhaps first--effort of block-book printing. These are of the +earliest dates, yet with trifling variations. The wood cuts in all the +copies are coloured; some more heavily than others; and in one of them you +observe, in the figure of St. Matthew, that red or crimson glossy wash, or +colour, so common in the earliest prints--and which is here carried over +the whole figure. One of these five copies is unbound. + +ARS MORIENDI. Here are two editions, of which one copy is indisputably the +most ancient--like that in Lord Spencer's library,[52]--but of a +considerably larger size, in quarto. There can be no doubt of the whole of +this production being xylographical. Unluckily this fine copy has the first +and last pages of text in ms. The other pages, with blank-reverses, are +faintly impressed in brown ink: especially the first, which seems to be +injured. A double-line border is round each page. This copy, which is bound +in blue morocco, has also received injury from a stain. I consider the +second copy, which is bound in red morocco, to be printed with moveable +_metal_ types. The ink is however of a palish brown. I never saw another +copy of this latter impression. + +BIBLIA PAUPERUM. _In Latin_. I doubt whether this be the first edition; but +at any rate it is imperfect. _In German_: with the date of 1470. Here are +two copies; of which I was anxious to obtain the duplicate (the largest and +uncoloured,) for the library in St. James's Place; but the value fixed upon +it was too high; indeed a little extravagant. + +The APOSTLES CREED. _In German_. Only seven leaves, but pasted together--so +that, the work is an opistographised production. This is a very rare, and +indeed unique volume; and utterly unknown to bibliographers. Each cut is +about the same size, and there are twelve in the whole. There is no other +text but the barbarous letters introduced at the bottom of the cut. + +MIRABILIA URBIS ROMAE. Another generally unknown xylographic performance; +printed in the German language: being a small quarto. I have secured a +duplicate of this singular volume for Lord Spencer's library, intending to +describe it in the _AEdes Althorpianae_.[53] + +The LIFE OF ST. MEINRAT; _in German_, in a series of wood-cut +representations. This Saint was murdered by two men, whose Christian names +were Peter and Richard, and who were always afterwards haunted by a couple +of crows. There is a German introduction of two pages, preceding the cuts. +These cuts are forty-eight in number. At the thirtieth cut, the Saint is +murdered; the earlier series representing the leading events of his life. +The thirty-first cut represents the murderers running away; an angel being +above them; In the thirty-second cut, they continue to be pursued. The +thirty-third cut thus describes them; the German and the version being as +follow; "_Hie furt man die mord vo danne un wil schleisse vn +redern die rappen volget alle zit hin nach vn stechet sy_." "Here +they bring the murderers, in order to drag them upon the hurdle to +execution, and to break them upon the wheel. The crows follow and peck +them." + +In the thirty-fourth cut Peter and Richard are tied and dragged at the +heels, of a horse. In the thirty-fifth they are broken upon the wheel. + +The _Calendar of Regiomontanus_--A decidedly xylographical production; the +first date is 1475, the last 1525. A fine sound copy, but cropt. In a +duplicate copy the name of the mathematician is given at the end. + +CANTICA CANTICORUM. First edition. A beautiful copy; cropt, but clean. +Sixteen cuts, uncoloured. The leaves have been evidently pasted together. +Another copy, coloured; but of a later date. In fine preservation. A third +copy; apparently the first edition; washed all over with a slight brown +tint, and again coarsely coloured in parts: This copy singularly enough, is +intermixed with portions of the first edition (as I take it) of the +_Apocalypse_: very clumsily coloured. A fourth copy, also, as I conceive, +of the first edition; rather heavily coloured. The back grounds are +uncoloured. This is larger than the other copies. + +DEFENSIO IMMACULATAE CONCEPTIONIS B.M.V. _Without place; of the date of +1470_. This is a Latin treatise; having four cuts in each page, with the +exception of the first two pages, which exhibit only Saints Ambrose, +Austin, Jerom and Gregory. At the bottom of the figure of St. Austin, +second column, first page, it is thus written; "_f.w. 1470_." In the whole +sixteen pages. The style of art is similar to that used in the +Antichrist.[54] Of this tract, evidently xylographical, I never saw or +heard of another copy. + +The foregoing list may be said to comprise the _chief rarities_ among the +BLOCK BOOKS in the Public Library at Munich; and if I am not mistaken, they +will afford no very unserviceable supplement to the celebrated work of +Heineken upon the same subject. From this department in the art of +printing, we descend naturally to that which is connected with metal types; +and accordingly I proceed to lay before you another list of +_Book-Rarities_--taken from the earlier _printed volumes_ in this most +extraordinary Library. + +We will begin with the best and most ancient of all Books:--the BIBLE. They +have a very singular copy of what is called the _Mazarine edition_: or +rather the parent impression of the sacred text:--inasmuch as it contains +(what, I believe, no other copy in Europe contains, and therefore M. +Bernhard properly considers it as unique) _four printed leaves of a table_, +as directions to the Rubricator. At the end of the Psalter is a ms. note +thus: "_Explicit Psalterium, 61_." This copy is in other respects far from +being desirable, for it is cropt, and in very ordinary calf binding. +_Mentelin's German Bible_. Here are two copies of this first impression of +the Bible in the German language: both of which have distinct claims to +render them very desirable. In the one is an inscription, in the German +language, of which M. Bernhard supplied me with the following literal +version: "_Hector Mulich and Otilia his wife; who bought this Bible in the +year of Our Lord, 1466, on the twenty-seventh day of June, for twelve +florins_." Their arms are below. The whole is decidedly a coeval +inscription. Here, therefore, is another testimony[55] of the printing of +this Bible at least as early as the year 1466. At the end of the book of +Jeremiah, in the same copy, is a ms. entry of 1467; "_sub Papa Paulo +Secundo et sub Imperatore Frederico tertio_." The second copy of this +edition, preserved in the same library, has a German ms. memorandum, +executed in red ink, stating that this edition is "_well translated, +without the addition of a single word, faithful to the Latin: printed at +Strasbourg with great care_." This memorandum is doubtless of the time of +the publication of the edition; and the Curators of the library very +judiciously keep both copies. + +A third, or triplicate copy, of Mentelin's edition--much finer than either +of the preceding--and indeed abounding with rough edges--was purchased by +me for the library in St. James's place; but it was not obtained for a sum +beneath its full value.[56] + +Here is a copy of _Eggesteyn's Latin Bible_, containing forty-five lines in +a full page, with the important date of "_24th May, 1466_"--in a coeval ms. +memorandum. Thus, you see, here is a date two years earlier[57] than that +in a copy of the same Bible in the Public Library at Strasbourg; and I +think, from hence, we are well warranted in supposing that both Mentelin +and Eggesteyn had their presses in full play at Strasbourg in 1466--if not +earlier. This copy of Eggesteyn's first Bible, which is in its original +binding of wood, is as fine and large as it is precious. + +I shall continue, miscellaneously, with the earlier printed books. _T. +Aquinas de Virtutibus et Vitiis_; printed by _Mentelin_ in his smallest +character. At the end, there is the following inscription, in faded green +ink; _Johannes Bamler de Augusta hui^9 libri Illuiator Anno 1468_. Thus +Bamler should seem to be an illuminator as well as printer,[58] and Panzer +is wrong in supposing that Bamler _printed_ this book. Of course Panzer +formed his judgment from a copy which wanted such accidental attestation. +_Ptolemy_, 1462: with all the maps, coloured. _Livy_ (1469): very fine--in +its original binding--full sixteen inches high. _Caesar_, 1469: very fine, +in the original binding. _Lucan_, 1469: equally fine, and coated in the +same manner. _Apuleius_, 1469: imperfect and dirty. The foregoing, you +know, are all EDITIONES PRINCIPES. But judge of my surprise on finding +neither the first edition of _Terence_, nor of _Valerius Maximus_, nor of +_Virgil_[59]--all by Mentelin. I enquired for the first _Roman_ or _Bologna +Ovid_: but in vain. It seemed that I was enquiring for "blue +diamonds;"[60]--so precious and rare are these two latter works. + +Here are very fine copies of the _Philosophical works of Cicero, printed by +Ulric Han_--with the exception of the Tusculan Questions and the treatise +upon Oratory, of the dates of 1468, 1469--which are unluckily wanting. M. +Bernhard preserves _four_ copies of the _Euclid_ of 1482, because they have +printed variations in the margins. One of these copies has the prefix, or +preface of one page, printed in letters of gold. I saw another such a copy +at Paris. Here is the _Milan Horace of 1474_--the text only. The +_Catholicon by Gutenberg, of 1460_: UPON VELLUM: quite perfect as to the +text, but much cropt, and many pieces sliced out of the margins--for +purposes, which it were now idle to enquire after; although I have heard of +a Durandus of 1459 in our own country, which, in ancient times, had been so +served for the purpose of writing directions on parcels of game, &c. +_Catholicon of 1469 by G. Zeiner_; also UPON VELLUM, and equally cropt--but +otherwise sound and clean. This copy contains an ancient manuscript note +which must be erroneous; as it professes the first owner to have got +possession of the book before it was _printed_: in other words, an _unit_ +was omitted in the date, and we should read 1469 for 1468.[61] + +Among the more precious ITALIAN BOOKS, is a remarkably fine copy of the old +edition of the _Decameron of Boccaccio_, called the _Deo Gracias_--which +Lord Spencer purchased at the sale of the Borromeo library in London, last +year. It is quite perfect, and in a fine, large condition. It was taken to +Paris on a certain memorable occasion, and returned hither on an occasion +equally memorable. It contains 253 leaves of text and two of table; and has +red ms. prefixes. It came originally from the library of Petrus Victorius, +from which indeed there are many books in this collection, and was bought +by the King of Bavaria at Rome. What was curious, M. Bernhard shewed me a +minute valuation of this very rare volume, which he had estimated at 1100 +florins--somewhere about L20. below the price given by Lord Spencer for his +copy, of which four leaves are supplied by ms. Here is a magnificent copy +of the _Dante of 1481_, with XX CUTS; the twentieth being precisely similar +to that of which a fac-simile appears in the B.S. This copy was _demanded_ +by the library at Paris, and xix. cuts only were specified in the demand; +the twentieth cut was therefore secreted, from another copy--which other +copy has a duplicate of the first cut, pasted at the end of the preface. +The impressions of the cuts, in the copy under description, are worthy of +the condition of the text and of the amplitude of the margins. It is a +noble book, in every point of view. + +I was shewn a great curiosity by this able bibliographer; nothing less than +a sheet, or _broadside_, containing _specimens of types from Ratdolf's +press_. This sheet is in beautiful preservation, and is executed in double +columns. The first ten specimens are in the _gothic_ letter, with a +gradually diminishing type. The last is thus: + + _Hunc adeas mira quicunq: volumina queris + Arte uel ex animo pressa fuisse tuo + Seruiet iste tibi: nobis (sic) iure sorores + Incolumem seruet vsq: rogare licet._ + +This is succeeded by three gradually diminishing specimens of the printer's +_roman_ letter. Then, four lines of Greek, in the Jensonian or Venetian +character: next, in large black letter, as below.[62] + +But a still greater curiosity, in my estimation, was a small leaf; by way +of _advertisement_, containing a list of publications issuing from the +press of a printer whose name has not yet been discovered, and attached +apparently to a copy of the _Fortalitium Fidei_; in which it was found. +Luckily there was a duplicate of this little broadside--or +advertisement--and I prevailed upon the curators, or rather upon M. +Bernhard (whose exclusive property it was) to part with this Sibylline +leaf, containing only nineteen lines, for a copy of the _AEdes Althorpianae-- +_as soon as that work should be published.[63] Of course, this is secured +for the library in St. James's Place. + +I am now hastening to the close of this catalogue of the Munich +book-treasures. You remember my having mentioned a sort of oblong cabinet, +where they keep the books PRINTED UPON VELLUM--together with block books, +and a few of the more ancient and highly illuminated MSS. I visited this +cabinet the first thing on entering--and the last thing on leaving--the +Public Library. "Where are your _Vellum Alduses_, good Mr. Bernhard?" said +I to my willing and instructive guide. "You shall see only _two_ of +them"--(rejoined he) but from these you must not judge of the remainder. So +saying, he put into my hands the _first editions of Horace and Virgil_, +each of 1501, and bound in one volume, in old red morocco. They were +gems--almost of the very first order, and--almost of their original +magnitude: measuring six inches and three eighths, by three inches and +seven eighths. They are likewise sound and clean: but the Virgil is not +equal to Lord Spencer's similar copy, in whiteness of colour, or beauty of +illumination. Indeed the illuminations in the Munich copy are left in an +unfinished state. In the ardour of the moment I talked of these two +precious volumes being worth "120 louis d'or." M.B. smiled gently, as he +heard me, and deliberately returned the volumes to their +stations--intimating, by his manner, that not thrice that sum should +dispossess the library of such treasures. I have lost my memoranda as to +the number of these vellum Alduses; but the impression upon my mind is, +that they have not more than _six_. + +Of course, I asked for a VELLUM _Tewrdanckhs_ of 1517, and my guide +forthwith placed _two_ MEMBRANACEOUS copies of this impression before +me:--adding, that almost every copy contained variations, more or less, in +the text. Indeed I found M.B. "doctissimus" upon this work; and I think he +said that he had published upon it as well as Camus.[64] This is about the +ninety-ninth time that I have most sensibly regretted my utter ignorance, +of the language (German) in which it pleaseth M. Bernhard to put forth his +instructive bibliographical lucubrations. Of these two copies, one has the +cuts coloured, and is very little cropt: the other has the cuts uncoloured, +and is decidedly cropt. + +With the Tewrdanckhs, I take my leave both of the public library of Munich +and (for the present) of its obliging and well-informed Second Librarian. +But I must not leave this WORLD OF BOOKS without imparting to you the +satisfaction which I felt on witnessing half a dozen grave-looking scribes +employed, chiefly under the direction of M. Bernhard, in making out a +classed catalogue of _Fifteeners_--preparatory to the sale of their +Duplicates. This catalogue will be important in many respects; and I hope +to see it in my own country within two years from the date of the present +epistle.[65] + +And now methinks it is high time to put the concluding paragraph to this +said epistle--so charged with bibliographical intelligence respecting the +capital of Bavaria. You must give it more than _one_ perusal if you wish to +digest it thoroughly. My next, within forty-eight hours hereof, will leave +me on the eve of departure from hence. In the meanwhile, prepare for some +pleasant BOOK TIDINGS in my ensuing despatch. + + +[40] Both the nave and towers appear in Hartmann Schedel's view of Munich, + in the _Nuremberg Chronicle_ of 1493: see fol. ccxxvi. The + "pepper-box" terminations are, I conceive, of a later date. + +[41] I take this to be the famous Albert who died in 1500; and who, in + Schedel's time, kept lions for his disport--at Munich: "qui sua + magnificentia plures nutrit leones" _Chron. Norimb._ 1493. + _Ibid._ + +[42] The steeple fell down in the year 1599, and has never been rebuilt. + +[43] See p. 87 ante. + +[44] See p. 66 ante. + +[45] [Sir J. Reynolds criticised these pictures when they were in the + _Dusseldorf Gallery_: but I cannot just now lay my hand upon his + remarks.] + +[46] [It has made, and is yet making, great strides towards the + accomplishment of the above-mentioned objects--since the above passage + was written.] + +[47] [With the exception of the first, (although I do not make this + exception with _confidence_) all the above-named gentlemen have + CEASED TO EXIST. Mr. Bernhard I believe died before the publication of + the preceding edition of this work: and I add, with perfect sincerity, + that _his_ decease, and that of _M. Adam Bartsch_ (vide + post) were, to me, among the bitterest regrets which I ever + experienced in my intercourse with foreign literati. + +[48] The able editor of the Romance of Sir TRISTREAM, ascribed to Thomas of + Ercildoune, appears to have been entirely ignorant of the existence of + this highly curious and coeval German version. I regret that I am + unable to give the reader a complete analysis of the whole. + + From this account, I select the following very small portion--of + fidelity of version--with a fac-simile of one of the Embellishments. + + So all his thoughts were wavering: + + _Wilen abe vn wilent an_-- + One while above, and one while down, + _Er tet wol an im selben schin_ + He truly on himself made shew, + _Daz der minnende mot_ + That an amorous mind behaves + _Reht als der vrie fogel tot_ + Even as the bird in the open air, + _Der durch die friheit dier hat_ + Who, by the liberty he enjoys, + _Vf daz gelimde twi gestat_ + Slightly sits on the lime-twig down; + _Als er des limes danne entsebet_ + As soon as he the lime descrys, + _Vnd er sieh vf ze fluhte hebet_ + And rises up to fly in haste, + _So chlebet er mit den fossen an_. + His feet are clinging to the twig. + + This simile of the bird seems expressed in the illumination, of which + the outline has been faithfully copied by Mr. Lewis: + + [Illustration] + +[49] See page 33 ante. + +[50] It appeared in the year 1808, and was sold for 2l. 12s. 6d. But a + blank space was left in the middle--which, in the original, is + occupied by a heavy gothic text. The publication of the continuation + by Lucas Cranach appeared in 1818. + +[51] Now in the Collection of Henry Perkins, Esq. + +[52] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. xv-xxiii. where fac-similes + of some of the cuts will be found. + +[53] Where it is fully described, in vol. ii. p. 188, &c. with fac-similes + of the type and ornaments. An entire page of it is given at p. 189. + +[54] See _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. xxxi. + +[55] A copy in the public library at Stuttgart has a ms. memorandum in + which the same dominical date is entered. See note, at page 21 ante. + +[56] It must be mentioned, however, that a fine copy of the _German + edition of Breydenbach's Travels, of 1486_, was given into the + bargain. + +[57] In the _Bibl. Spencer_, vol. i. p. 38-9--where a fac-simile of + the type of this edition is given--the impression is supposed to have + been executed in "the year 1468 at latest." The inscription of 1468 in + the Strasbourg copy (see vol. ii. p. 404.) should seem at least to + justify the caution of this conclusion. But, from the above, we are as + justified in assigning to it a date of at least two years earlier. + +[58] Lord Spencer possesses a copy of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, + with the Commentary of Trivetus, printed by Mentelin, which was also + illuminated by Bamler in the same year as above--1468. The memorandum + to this effect, by Bamler, is given in the _AEdes Althorpianae_; + vol. ii. p. 20. + +[59] I will not say _positively_ that the VIRGIL is _not_ there; + but I am pretty sure of the absence of the two preceding works. My + authority was, of course, the obliging and well informed M. Bernhard. + +[60] See page 115 ante. + +[61] The inscription is this: "_Anno dni Millesimo cccc^o lxviij^o. + Conparatus est iste Katholicon tpe Iohis Hachinger h^{9} ccclie p + tunc imeriti pptti. p. xlviij Aureis R flor^{9} taxatus p. H xxi + faciunt in moneta Vsuali xlvj t d_." So that it seems a copy of + this work, upon vellum, was worth at the time of its publication, + _forty-six golden florins_. + +[62] _Indicis characterum diversarum manerieru impressioni + parataru: Finis. Erhardi Ratdolt Augustensis viri solertissimi: + preclaro ingenio & mirifica arte: qua olim Venetijs excelluit + celebratissimus. In imperiali nunc vrbe Auguste vindelicorum + laudatissime impressioni dedit. Annoq; salutis_ M.CCCC.LXXXXVI. + _Cale Aprilis Sidere felici compleuit_. + +[63] An admirably executed fac-simile of the above curious document appears + in the work here referred to: vol. ii. p. 131--where the subject of + its probable printer is gone into at considerable length. + +[64] The reader, if he have leisure and inclination, may consult a long + note in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. 201, + respecting the best authorities to be consulted upon the above very + splendid and distinguished performance. Camus is included in the list + of authorities referred to. + +[65] Seven years have elapsed since the above was written, but no CLASSED + CATALOGUE of any portion of the Public Library of Munich has appeared + in this country. Speaking of _duplicates_, not printed in the + fifteenth century, it may be worth observing that they have at Munich + not fewer than six copies (double the number of those at Strasbourg;) + of the ACTA SANCTORUM; good handsome copies in vellum binding. + + [Since the first edition of this Tour was published, several copies of + this stupendous, but unfortunately imperfect work, have been imported + into England: among which, however, none, to my recollection, have + found their way from MUNICH. Indeed, the heavy expense of carriage is + almost an interdiction: unless the copies were obtained at very + moderate prices.] + + + + +LETTER VI. + + +FURTHER BOOK-ACQUISITIONS. SOCIETY. THE ARTS. + + +The bright bibliographical star, which shone upon me at Stuttgart, has +continued to shine with the same benign lustre at this place. "[Greek: +_Heureka Heureka_]"!--the scarcest and brightest of all the ALDINE GEMS has +been found and secured by me: that gem, for which M. Renouard still +continues to sigh and to rave, alternately, in despair of a _perfect_ copy; +and which has, only very recently, been placed among the most brilliant +ornaments of the Royal Library at Paris.[66] What may these strange +exclamations and inuendos imply?--methinks I hear you say. You shall know +in a trice--which just brings me to the very point with which my previous +epistle concluded. Those "pleasant book-tidings," referred to in my last, +and postponed for the present opportunity, are "as hereafter followeth." + +In my frequent conversations with the Guardians of the Public Library, I +learnt that one STOEGER, a bookseller chiefly devoted to the purchase and +sale of _Aldine_ volumes, resided in this metropolis; that his abode was +rather private than public; and that his "magasin" was lodged on the second +or third floor, in a row of goodly houses, to the right, on entering the +city. M. Bernhard added, that Mr. Stoeger had even a copy of the first +Aldine edition of the _Greek hours_ (printed in 1497)--which is the very +gem above alluded to; "but (observed my intelligent informant, as he +accompanied me to the door of the bookseller in question) "he will not part +with it: for both the Prince Royal and our Public Library have been +incessant in their importunities to possess it. He sets an extravagant +price upon it." Having been instructed from early youth, "never to take +that for _granted_ which remained to be _proved_," I thanked the worthy M. +Bernhard for his intelligence; and, wishing him a good morning, entered the +chamber of Mr. Stoeger. + +I had previously heard (and think that I have before made mention) of the +eagerness with which the Prince Royal of Bavaria purchases _Alduses_; and +own, that, had I chosen to reflect one little minute, I might have been +sufficiently disheartened at any reasonable prospect of success, against +two such formidable opponents as the Prince and the Public Library. +However, in cases of emergency, 'tis better to think courageously and to +act decisively. I entered therefore the chamber of this Aldine bookseller, +resolved upon bearing away the prize--"coute qu'il coute"--provided that +prize were not absolutely destined for another. M. Stoeger saluted me +formally but graciously. He is a short, spare man, with a sharp pair of +dark eyes, and speaks French with tolerable fluency. We immediately +commenced a warm bibliographical discussion; when Mr. Stoeger, all of a +sudden, seemed to raise himself to the height of six feet--gave three +strides across the room--and exclaimed, "Well, Sir; the cabinet of my Lord +Spencer wants something which I possess in yonder drawer." I told him that +I knew what it was he alluded to; and, with the same decision with which I +seemed to bespeak the two Virgils at Stuttgart, I observed, that "_that_ +want would soon cease; for that ere I quitted the room, the book in +question would doubtless become the property of the nobleman whom he had +just mentioned." Mr. Stoeger, for three seconds, was lost in astonishment: +but instinctively, as it were; he approached the drawer: opened it: and +shewed me an unbound, sombre-looking, but sound and perfect copy of the +_first edition_ of the GREEK HOURS, _printed by Aldus_. + +As I had among my papers a collation of the perfect copy at Paris, I soon +discovered that Mr. Stoeger's copy was also complete; and ... in less than +fifteen minutes I gained a _complete victory_ over the Prince Royal of +Bavaria and the corps bibliographique of Messrs. Von Moll, Schlichtegroll, +Scherer, Bernhard, &c.--the directors and guardians of the Public Library +at Munich. In other words, this tiny book, measuring not quite four inches, +by not quite three, was _secured_--for the cabinet in question--at the +price of * * florins!! The vender, as I shrewdly suspect, had bought it of +a brother bookseller at Augsbourg,[67]of the name of KRANSFELDER (a worthy +man; whom I visited--but with whom I found nothing but untransportable +Latin and German folios) for ... peradventure only the _hundredth part_ of +the sum which he was now to receive. What shall we say? The vender is +designated by Mr. Schlichtegroll, in the preface of the last sale catalogue +of the duplicates of the Public Library (1815, 8vo.) as "bibliopola +honestissimus"--and let us hope that he merits the epithet. Besides, books +of this excessive rarity are objects of mere caprice and fancy. To return +to this "bibliopola honestissimus," I looked out a few more tempting +articles, of the Aldine character,[68] and receiving one or two as a +douceur; in the shape a present, settled my account with Mr. Stoeger ... +and returned to my lodging more and more confirmed in the truth of the +position of "not taking _that_ for granted which remained to be _proved_." +The whole of this transaction was, if I may so speak, in the naughty vanity +of my heart, a sort of _octodecimo_ illustration of the "VENI, VIDI, VICI" +of a certain illustrious character of antiquity. + +Of a very different character from this _Aldine bibliopolist_ is a +bookseller of the name of VON FISCHHEIM: the simplest, the merriest, the +most artless of his fraternity. It was my good friend Mr. Hess (of whom I +shall presently speak somewhat more at large) who gave me information of +his residence. "You will find there (added he) all sorts of old books, old +drawings, pictures, and curiosities." What a provocative for an immediate +and incessant attack! I took my valet with me--for I was told that Mr. Von +Fischheim could not speak a word of French--and within twenty minutes of +receiving the information, found myself in the dark and dreary premises of +this same bibliopolist. He lives on the first floor; but the way thither is +almost perilous. Mr. Fischheim's cabinet of curiosities was crammed even to +suffocation; and it seemed as if a century had elapsed since a vent-hole +had been opened for the circulation of fresh air. I requested the favour of +a pinch of snuff from Mr. Fischheim's box, to counteract all unpleasant +sensations arising from effluvia of a variety of description--but I +recommend English visitors in general to _smoke a segar_ while they rummage +among the curiosities of Mr. Fischheim's cabinet! Old Tom Hearne might +here, in a few minutes, have fancied himself ... any thing he pleased! + +The owner of these miscellaneous treasures wore one unvarying smile upon +his countenance during the whole time of my remaining with him. He saw me +reject this, and select that; cry "pish" upon one article, and "bravo" upon +another--with the same settled complacency of countenance. His responses +were short and pithy, and I must add, pleasant: for, having entirely given +up all hopes of securing any thing in the shape of a good picture, a good +bust, or a genuine illumination from a rich old MS., I confined myself +strictly to printed books--and obtained some very rare, precious, and +beautifully-conditioned volumes upon most reasonable and acceptable +terms.[69] Having completed my purchase, the books were sent to the hotel +by a shopman, in the sorriest possible garb, but who wore, nevertheless, a +mark of military distinction in his button-hole. From henceforth I can +neither think, nor speak, but with kindness of Paul Ludwig Von Fischheim, +the simplest, the merriest, and most artless of his fraternity. + +The day following this adventure, I received a note informing me that a +person, practising physic, but also a collector and seller of old books, +would be glad to see me in an adjoining street. He had, in particular, some +"RARE OLD BIBLES." Another equally stimulant provocative! I went, saw, +and... returned--with scarcely a single trophy. Old Bibles there were--but +all of too recent a date: and all in the _Latin_ language. Yet I know not +how it was, but I suffered myself to be prevailed upon to give some twenty +florins for a doubtfully-printed _Avicenna_, and a _Biblia Historica +Moralisata_. Had I yielded to further importunities, or listened to further +information, I might have filled the large room in which I am now +sitting--and which is by much the handsomest in the hotel[70]--with +oak-bound folios, vellum-clad quartos, and innumerable broadsides. But I +resisted every entreaty: I had done sufficient--at least for the first +visit to the capital of Bavaria. + +And doubtless I have good reason to be satisfied with these Bavarian +book-treasures. There they all lie; within as many strides of me as Mr. +Stoeger took across the room; while, more immediately within reach, and +eyed with a more frequent and anxious look, repose the _Greek Hours_, the +_first Horace_, the _Mentelin German Bible_, and the _Polish Protestant +Bible_; all--ALL destined for the cabinet of which Mr. Stoeger made such +enthusiastic mention. + +A truce now to books, and a word or two about society. I arrived here at a +season when Munich is considered to be perfectly empty. None of the +noblesse; no public gaieties; no Charge d'Affaires--all were flown, upon +the wings of curiosity or of pleasure towards the confines of Italy. But as +my business was rather with Books and bookmen, I sought chiefly the society +of the latter, nor was I disappointed. I shall introduce them one by one. +First therefore for the BARON VON MOLL; one of the most vivacious and +colloquial of gentlemen; and who perhaps has had more to do with books than +any one of his degree in Bavaria. I know not even if he have not had two or +more monastic libraries to dispose of--which descended to him as ancestral +property. I am sure he talked to me of more than one chateau, or country +villa, completely filled with books; of which he meditated the disposal by +public or private sale. And this, too--after he had treated with the +British Museum through the negotiation of our friend the Rev. Mr. Baber, +for two or three thousand pounds worth of books, comprehending, chiefly, a +very valuable theological collection. The Baron talked of twenty thousand +volumes being here and there, with as much sang-froid and certainty as +Bonaparte used to talk of disposing of the same number of soldiers in +certain directions. + +The other Sunday afternoon I accompanied him to one of his villas, in the +direct road from Munich--near which indeed I had passed in my route hither. +Or, rather, speaking more correctly the Baron accompanied me:--as he +bargained for my putting a pair of post-horses to my carriage. He wished me +to see his books, and his rural domain. The carriage and burden were +equally light, and the road was level and hard. We therefore reached the +place of our destination in a short hour. It was a very pleasant mansion, +with a good garden, and several fertile fields of pasture and arable land. +The Baron made it his summer residence. His books filled the largest room +in the house. He invited me to look around, to select any volumes that I +might fancy, provided they were not grammatical or lexicographical--for, in +that department, he never wished his strength to be diminished, or his +numbers to be lessened. I did as he desired me: culled a pretty +book-posey;--not quite so blooming as that selected at Lincoln,[71] some +dozen years ago,--and, as the sun was setting, voted the remainder of the +evening, till supper-time, to a walk with the Baron upon the neighbouring +heights. + +The evening was fair and mild, and the Baron was communicative and +instructive. His utterance is rapid and vehement; but with a tone of voice +and mode of action by no means uninteresting. We talked about the +possession of Munich by the French forces, under the command of Moreau, and +he narrated some particulars equally new and striking. Of Moreau, he spoke +very handsomely; declaring him to have been a modest, grave, and sensible +man--putting his great military talents entirely out of the question. The +Baron himself, like every respectable inhabitant of Munich, was put under +military surveillance. Two grenadiers and a petty officer were quartered +upon him. He told me a curious anecdote about Bonaparte and Marshal +Lasnes--if I remember rightly, upon the authority of Moreau. It was during +the crisis of some great battle in Austria, when the fate of the day was +very doubtful, that Bonaparte ordered Lasnes to make a decisive movement +with his cavalry; Lasnes seemed to hesitate. Bonaparte reiterated the +order, and Lasnes appeared to hesitate again--as if doubting the propriety +of the movement. Bonaparte eyed him with a look of ineffable contempt; and +added--almost fixing his teeth together, in a hissing but biting tone of +sarcasm--"_Est-ce que je t'ai fait trop riche?_" Lasnes dashed his spurs +into the sides of his charger, turned away, and prepared to put the command +of his master into execution. + +So much for the Baron Von Moll. The name of SCHLICHTEGROLL was frequently +mentioned in my last letter. It is fitting, therefore, that you should know +something of the gentleman to whom this name appertains. Mr. F. +Schlichtegroll is the Director in Chief of the Public Library at Munich. I +was introduced to him in a room contiguous to that where they keep their +models of public buildings--such as bridges, barriers, fortifications, &c. +which are extremely beautiful and interesting. The director received me in +the heartiest manner imaginable; and within five minutes of our first +salutation, I found his arm within my own, as we walked up and down the +room--discoursing about first editions, block-books, and works printed upon +vellum. He was delighted to hear of my intention to make a vigorous attack, +with pen, ink, and paper, upon the oblong cabinet of _Fifteeners_ and +precious MSS. of which my last letter made especial mention; and promised +to afford me every facility which his official situation might command. +Unluckily for a more frequent intercourse between us, which was equally +wished by both parties, the worthy Director was taken ill towards the +latter part of my stay;[72]--not however before I had visited him twice, +and been his guest attended by a numerous party. + +Mr. SCHERER is the third figure upon this bibliographical piece of canvass, +of which I deem it essential to give you a particular description. He is +very hearty, very alert in the execution of his office, and is "all over +English" in his general appearance and manner of conduct. He is learned in +oriental literature; is a great reader of English Reviews; and writes our +language with fluency and tolerable correctness. He readily volunteered his +kind offices in translating the German ms. of _Sir Tristrem_, of which my +last letter made mention--and I have been indebted to him upon every +occasion, wherein I have solicited his aid, for much friendly and much +effectual attention. He has, luckily for his own character, vouchsafed to +_dine_ with me; although it was with difficulty I could prevail upon him so +to do, and for him to allow me to dine at the protracted hour of _four_. +After dinner, it was with pleasure,--when surrounded by all the +book-treasures, specified in the early part of this letter, and which were +then lying in detached piles upon the floor[73]--I heard Mr. Scherer +expatiate upon the delight he felt in taking a trip, every summer or +autumn, among the snow-capt mountains of the Tyrol; or of burying his +cares, as well as changing his studies and residence, by an excursion along +the lakes and mountains of Switzerland. "When that season arrives (added +he--stretching forth both arms in a correspondently ardent manner) I fly +away to these grand scenes of silence and solitude, and forget the works of +man in the contemplation of those of nature!" As he spake thus, my heart +went a good way with him: and I could not but express my regret that London +was not situated like the capital of Bavaria. + +Of Mr. BERNHARD, the sub-librarian, I have already spoken frequently; and +in a manner, I trust, to shew that I can never be insensible either of his +acquirements or his kindness. He has one of the meekest +spirits--accompanied by the firmest decision--which ever marked the human +character; and his unconsciousness both of the one and of the other renders +his society the more delightful. + +A temporary farewell to Bibliography, and to Bibliographers. You may +remember that I introduced the name of Hess, in a former part of this +letter; with an intention of bringing the character, to whom it belonged, +at a future period before your notice. You will be gratified by the mention +of some particulars connected with him. Mr. Hess has passed his grand +climacteric; and is a Professor of Design, but more especially a very +distinguished Engraver. His figure, his manner of conversation, his +connections, and his character, are all such--as to render it pleasing to +find them combined with a man of real talent and worth. I had brought with +me, from England, a drawing or copy of one of the original portraits at +Althorp--supposed to be painted by Anthony More--with a view of getting it +engraved abroad. It is very small, scarcely four inches square. I had shewn +it at Paris to Lignon, who _modestly_ said he would execute it in his very +best manner, for 3000 francs! M. Hess saw it--and was in extacies. "Would I +allow him to engrave it?" "Name your price." "I should think about +thirty-five guineas." "I should think (replied I) that that sum would +entitle me to your best efforts." "Certainly; and you shall have +them"--rejoined he. I then told him of the extravagance of Lignon. He felt +indignant at it. "Not (added he) that I shall execute it in _his_ highly +finished manner." I immediately consigned the precious portrait into his +hands--with a written agreement to receive the engraving of it next year, +at the stipulated sum.[74] + +Thus you see I have set Mr. Hess to work in my absence--when I quit +Munich--which will be to-morrow, or the following day at farthest. This +worthy artist won upon me at every interview. His dress and address were +truly gentlemanly; and as he spoke the English language as well as he did +the French, we were of course glad to renew our visits pretty frequently. +His anxiety to promote my views, and to afford my companion every +assistance in his power, connected with the Fine Arts, will be long and +gratefully remembered by us.[75] But Mr. NOCKHER shall not be passed over +"sub silentio." He is a banker; and I found another FRANCS in the +promptitude and liberality of his offers of pecuniary supply. He, together +with Mr. Hess, has tasted the best red wine, at my humble table, that the +_Schwartzen Adler_ can afford; and I have quaffed his souchong, in society +in which I should like to have mingled again and again. The subjects of +pictures and prints occupied every moment of our time, and almost every +word of our discussion; and Mr. Nockher shewed me his fine impression of +the _Dresden Raphael_, in a manner that proved how perfectly well he was +qualified to appreciate the merits of the graphic art. That print, you +know, is considered to be the masterpiece of modern art; and it is also +said that the engraver--having entirely finished every portion of it--did +NOT LIVE TO SEE A FINISHED PROOF. Mr. Nockher bought it for some three or +four napoleons, and has refused twenty for it. I own that, to my eye, this +print has more power, expression, and I may say colouring, than almost any +which I remember to have seen. The original is in the second, or darker +style of colouring, of the master; and this engraving of it is as perfect a +copy of the manner of the original, as that by Raphael Morghen of the last +Supper of Leonardo da Vinci--so celebrated all over Europe. + +Mr. Nockher is both a good-natured man, and a man of business; and the +facility and general correctness of his mode of speaking the English +language, renders a communication with him very agreeable. He has +undertaken to forward all my book-purchases to England--with the exception +of a certain _little Greek duodecimo_, which has taken a marvellous fancy +to be the travelling companion of its present master. Mr. Nockher also +promises to forward all future book-purchases which I may make--and which +may be directed for him at Munich--on to England. Thus, therefore--when I +quit this place--I may indulge a pleasing anticipation of the future, +without any anxieties respecting the past.[76] + +And now fare you well. Within twenty-four hours I start from hence, upon +rather a _digressive_ excursion; and into which the Baron Von Moll and M. +Schlichtegroll have rather coaxed, than reasoned, me. I am to go from hence +to _Freysing_ and _Landshut_--and then diverge down, to the right, upon +_Salzburg_--situated 'midst snow-clad mountains, and containing a LIBRARY +within the oldest monastery in Austria. I am to be prepared to be equally +struck with astonishment at the crypt of Freysing, and at the tower of +Landshut--and after having "revelled and rioted" in the gloomy cloisters +and sombre apartments of St. Peter's monastery, at Salzburg, I am +instructed to take the _Lake of Gmunden_ in my way to the _Monastery of +Chremsminster_--in the direct route to Lintz and Vienna. A world of variety +and of wonder seems therefore to be before me; and as my health has been +recently improved, from the comparatively cool state of the weather, I feel +neither daunted nor depressed at the thought of any difficulties, should +there be any, which may await me in the accomplishment of this journey. My +next, God willing, will assuredly be from Salzburg--when I shall have +rested awhile after a whirl of some two hundred miles. + + +[66] [See vol. ii. p. 147. Renouard, _L'Imprim. des Alde_, vol. i. + 36-7. There are however, NOW, I believe, in this country, FIVE copies + of this very rare book; of which four are perfect.] + +[67] The copy in question had, in 1595, been the property of F. Gregorius, + prior of the monastery of Sts. Ulric and Afra at Augsbourg: as that + possessor's autograph denotes. + +[68] The principal of these "tempting articles" were a fine first + _Statius_ of 1502, _Asconius Pedianus_, 1522. _Cicero de + Officiis_, 1517, and _Leonicerus de Morbo Gallico_--with the + leaf of errata: wanting in the copy in St. James's Place. But perhaps + rarer than either, the _Laurentius Maoli_ and _Averrois_, + each of 1497--intended for _presents_. But Mr. Stoeger had + forgotten these intended presents--and _charged_ them at a good + round sum. I considered his word as his bond--and told him that honest + Englishmen were always in the habit of so considering the words of + honest Germans. I threatened him with the return of the whole cargo, + including even the beloved _Greek Hours_. Mr. Stoeger seemed + amazed: hesitated: relented: and adhered to his original position. Had + he done otherwise, I should doubtless have erased the epithet + "honestissimus," in all the copies of the sale catalogue above alluded + to, which might come within my notice, and placed a marginal + emendation of "avidissimus." + +[69] It may be a novel, and perhaps gratifying, sight to the reader to + throw his eye over a list (of a few out of the fifty articles) like + the following: + _Flor. Kreutz. + Liber Moralizat. Biblic. Ulm_. 1474. Folio. Fine copy 11 + _Biblia Vulg. Hist. Ital. Venet._ Giunta 1492. Fol. 8 + _Horatius. Venet._ 1494. 4to. Fig. lig. incis. 11 + _Cronica del rey don Iuan_. _Sevilla_. 1563. 4to. 11 + _Breviarium. Teutonice_. 4to. In MEMBRANIS. A + most beautiful and spotless book. It contains + only the Pars Hyemalis of the cathedral service. 11 + _Dictionarium Pauperum_. _Colon_. 1504. 8vo. 1 + _Pars quart. Ind. Orient. Francof_. 1601. 5 30 + _Fabulae AEsopicae_. _Cura Brandt_. 1501. Folio. + Perhaps a matchless copy; in original binding + of wood. Full of cuts 55 + Thirteen different opuscula, at one florin each; + many very curious and uncommon 13 + The Lord's Prayer and Creed--in the German + language--printed by "_Fricz Crewsner_," in + 1472: folio: _broadside_. Perhaps UNIQUE 22 + + The florin, at the time of my residence at Munich, was about 1s. 9d. + +[70] [However severely I may have expressed myself in a preceding page + (105) of the general condition of this huge Inn, yet I cannot but gaze + upon the subjoined view of it with no ordinary sensation of delight + when I remember that the three-windowed room, on the first floor, to + the right--close to the corner--was the room destined to be graced by + the BOOK TREASURES above mentioned. This view may also serve as a + general specimen of the frontage of the larger Inns in Bavaria.] + + [Illustration] + +[71] [All the _book-world_ has heard mention of THE LINCOLNE NOSEGAY, + --a small handful of flowers, of choice hues, and vigorous stems, + culled within the precincts of one of the noblest cathedrals in + Europe. Neither Covent Garden at home, nor the Marche aux Fleurs at + Paris, could boast of such a posey. I learn, however, with something + approaching to horror, that the Nosegay in question has been + counterfeited. A _spurious_ edition (got up by some unprincipled + speculator, and, I must add, bungling hand--for the typographical + discrepancy is obvious) is abroad. Roxburghers, look well to your + book-armouries! The foe may have crept into them, and exchanged your + steel for painted wood.] + +[72] There is something so hearty and characteristic in the Director's last + letter to me, that I hope to be pardoned if I here subjoin a brief + extract from it. "M. Scherer vient me quitter, et m'annoncer que votre + depart est fixe pour demain. Jamais maladie--auxquelles, heureusement, + je suis tres rarement expose--m'est survenu aussi mal-a-propos qu'a + cette fois-ci. J'avois compte de jouir encore au moins quelques jours, + apres mon retablissement, de votre entretien, et jetter les fondemens + d'une amitie collegiale pour la future. La nouvelle, que M. Scherer + m'apporte, me desole. J'avois forme le plan de vous accompagner pour + voir quelqu'uns de nos Institutions remarquables, principalement _La + Lithographie_, "Vana Somnia!" Votre resolution de quitter Munich + plutot que je n'avois pense, detruit mes esperances. N'est-ce-pas + possible que vous passiez par Munich a votre retour de Vienne? Utinam! + Combien de choses restent, sur lesquelles j'esperais de causer et de + traiter avec vous! "I bono alite: pede fausto." + + [Autograph] + + [The author of this Letter is NO MORE!] + +[73] See the note, p. 157 ante. + +[74] This Engraving appears in the _AEdes Althorpianae_, vol. i. p. 246. + On my return to England, it was necessary to keep up a correspondence + with the amiable and intelligent character in question. I make no + apology, either to the reader, or to the author of the Epistle, for + subjoining a copy of one of these letters--premising, that it relates + to fac-similes of several old copper cuts in the Public Library at + Munich, as well as to his own engraving of the above-mentioned + portrait. There is something throughout the whole of this letter so + hearty, and so thoroughly original, that I am persuaded it will be + perused with extreme gratification: + + + _Munich, 17 May, 1819._ + + Dear and Reverend Sir; + + I am a good old fellow, and a passable engraver; but a very bad + Correspondent. You are a ... and minister of a religion which forgive + all faults of mankind; and so I hope that you will still pardon me the + retardation of mine answer. I am now 65 years old, and have never had + any sickness in mine life, but I have such an averseness against + writing, that only the _sight_ of an ink-horn, pen and paper, + make me feeling all sort of fevers of the whole medicinal + faculty;--and so I pray that you would forgive me the brevity of mine + letters. Following your order, I send you jointly the first proof + prints of those plates still (already) finished. The plate of that + beautiful head of an English artist, is not yet so far advanced; but + in about six weeks you will have it--and during this time, I expect + your answer and direction to whom I shall deliver the whole. I wish + and hope heartily that the fac-similes and portraits would be + correspondent with your expectation. + + I hold it for necessary and interesting, to give you a true copy of + that old print--"_Christ in the lap of God the Father_." You'll + see that this print is cutten round, and carefully pasted upon another + paper on a wooden band of a book: which proves not only a high respect + for a precious antiquity, but likewise that this print is much older + than the date of 1462--which is written in red ink, over the cutten + outlines, of that antique print. You may be entirely assured of the + fidelity of both fac-similes. Now I pray you heartily to remember my + name to our dear Mr. Lewis, with my friendliest compliments, and told + him that the work on _Lithography_ is now finished, and that he + shall have it by the first occasion. In expectation of your honorable + answer, I assure you of the highest consideration and respect of + + Your most obedient humble Servant, + + [Autograph] + +[75] [This GRAPHIC WORTHY now _ceases to exist_. He died in his + seventy-first year--leaving behind, the remembrance of virtues to be + reverenced and of talents to be imitated.] + +[76] [Another OBITUARY presses closely upon the preceding--but an Obituary + which rends one's heart to dwell upon:--for a kinder, a more diligent, + and more faithful Correspondent than was Mr. Nockher, it has never + been my good fortune to be engaged with. Almost while writing the + _above_ passage, this unfortunate gentleman ... DESTROYED + himself:--from embarrassment of circumstances!] + + + + +LETTER VII. + + +FREYSING. LANDSHUT. ALTOeTING. SALZBURG. THE MONASTERY OF ST. PETER. + + +_Salzburg; Golden Ship, Aug. 23, 1818._ + +MY DEAR FRIEND; + + +If ever I wished for those who are dear to me in England, to be my +companions during any part of this "_antiquarian_ and _picturesque_ tour," +(for there are comparatively few, I fear, who would like to have been +sharers of the "_bibliographical_" department of it) it has been on the +route from Munich to this place: first, darting up to the north; and +secondly, descending gradually to the south; and feasting my eyes, during +the descent, upon mountains of all forms and heights, winding through a +country at once cultivated and fertile, and varied and picturesque. Yes, my +friend, I have had a glimpse, and even more than a glimpse, of what may be +called ALPINE SCENERY: and have really forgotten Fust, Schoeffher, and +Mentelin, while contemplating the snow-capt heights of the _Gredig_, +_Walseberg_, and _Untersberg_:--to say nothing of the _Gross Klokner_, +which raises its huge head and shoulders to the enormous height of 12,000 +feet above the level of the sea. + +These be glorious objects!--but I have only gazed; and, gazed at a distance +of some twenty or thirty miles. Surrounded as I am, at this moment,--in one +of the most marvellous and romantic spots in Europe--in the vicinity of +lakes, mountain-torrents, trout-streams, and salt-mines,--how can you +expect to hear any thing about MSS. and PRINTED BOOKS? They shall not, +however, be _wholly_ forgotten; for as I always endeavour to make my +narrative methodical, I must of necessity make mention of the celebrated +library of INGOLDSTADT, (of which Seemiller has discoursed so learnedly in +a goodly quarto volume,) now, with the University of the same place, +transferred to LANDSHUT--where I slept on the first night of my departure +from Munich. + +A secret, but strong magnetic power, is pulling me yet more southerly, +towards _Inspruck_ and _Italy_. No saint in the golden legend was ever more +tortured by temptation, than I have been for the last twenty-four hours ... +with the desire of visiting those celebrated places. Thrice has some +invisible being--some silver-tongued sylph--not mentioned, I apprehend, in +the nomenclature of the Rosicrusian philosophy, whispered the word ... +"ROME ..." in mine ear--and thrice have I replied in the response... +"VIENNA!" I am therefore firmly fixed: immoveably resolved ... and every +southerly attraction shall be deserted for the capital of Austria: having +determined to mingle among the Benedictin and Augustin monks of +_Chremsminster_, _St. Florian_, and _Moelk_--and, in the bookish treasures +of their magnificent establishments, to seek and obtain something which may +repay the toil and expense of my journey. + +But why do I talk of monastic delights only in _contemplation_? I have +_realized_ them. I have paced the cloisters of St. Peter's, the +mother-convent of Austria: have read inscriptions, and examined ornaments, +upon tombstones, of which the pavement of these cloisters is chiefly +composed: have talked bad Latin with the principal, and indifferently good +French with the librarian--have been left alone in the library--made +memoranda, or rather selected books for which a _valuable consideration_ +has been proposed--and, in short, fancied myself to be thoroughly initiated +in the varieties of the Bavarian and Austrian characters. Indeed, I have +almost the conceit to affirm that this letter will be worth both postage +and preservation. + +Let me "begin at the beginning." On leaving Munich, I had resolved upon +dining at Freysingen, or _Freysing_; as well to explore the books of Mr. +Mozler, living there--and one of the most "prying" of the bibliopolistic +fraternity throughout Germany--as to examine, with all imaginable +attention, the celebrated Church to which a monastery had been formerly +attached--and its yet more celebrated _Crypt_. All my Munich friends +exhorted me to descend into this crypt; and my curiosity had been not a +little sharpened by the lithographic views of it (somewhat indifferently +executed) which I had seen and purchased at Munich. Some of my Munich +friends considered the crypt of Freysing to be coeval with Charlemagne. +This was, at least, a very romantic conjecture. + +The morning was gray and chill, when we left the _Schwartzen Adler_; but as +we approached Garching, the first stage, the clouds broke, the sun shone +forth, and we saw Freysing, (the second stage) situated upon a commanding +eminence, at a considerable distance. In our way to Garching, the river +Iser and the plains of Hohenlinden lay to the right; upon each of which, as +I gazed, I could not but think alternately of MOREAU and CAMPBELL. You will +readily guess wherefore. The former won the memorable battle of +Hohenlinden--fought in the depth of winter--by which the Austrians were +completely defeated, and which led to the treaty of Luneville: and the +latter (that is, our Thomas Campbell) celebrated that battle in an +_Ode_--of which I never know how to speak in sufficient terms of +admiration: an ode, which seems to unite all the fire of Pindar with all +the elegance of Horace; of which, parts equal Gray in sublimity, and +Collins in pathos. + +We drove to the best, if not the only, Inn at Freysing; and, ordering a +late dinner, immediately visited the cathedral;--not however without taking +the shop of Mozler, the bookseller, in our way, and finding--to my +misfortune--that the owner was absent on a journey; and his sister, the +resident, perfectly ignorant of French. We then ascended towards the +cathedral, which is a comparatively modern building; at least every thing +_above_ ground is of that description. The CRYPT, however, more than +answered my expectations. I should have no hesitation in calling it +perfectly unique; as I have neither seen, nor heard, nor read of any thing +the least resembling it. The pillars, which support the roof, have monsters +crawling up their shafts--devouring one another, as one sees them in the +margins of the earlier illuminated MSS. + +The altar beneath Our Lady's chapel was a confused mass of lumber and +rubbish; but, if I were to select--from all the strange and gloomy +receptacles, attached to places of religious worship, which I have seen +since quitting the shores of my own country--any ONE SPOT, in preference to +another, for the celebration of mysterious rites--it should be the CRYPT of +the CATHEDRAL of FREYSING. And perhaps I should say that portions of it +might be as old as the latter end of the eleventh century. From the +foundation, we ascended to the very summit of the building; and from the +top of the tower, had a most extensive and complete view of the plains of +_Hohenlinden_, the rapid _Iser_, and the gray mist of Munich in the +distance. I was much struck with a large bell, cast about fourscore years +ago; the exterior of which was adorned by several inscriptions, and rather +whimsical ornaments. Having gratified a curiosity of this kind, my +companion and valet left me, for a stroll about the town; when I requested +the guide (who could luckily talk a little bad French) to shew me the +LIBRARY belonging to the monastery formerly attached to the cathedral. He +told me that it was the mere relics of a library:--the very shadow of a +shade. + +Indeed it was quickly obvious that there were certain _hiatuses_ upon the +shelves--which told their own tale pretty readily. The books, once +occupying them, had been taken to Munich. The room is light, cheerful, and +even yet well garnished with books: most of them being in white forel or +vellum binding. There were Bibles, out of number, about the beginning of +the sixteenth century; and an abundant sprinkling of glosses, decretals, +canon law, and old fashioned scholastic lore of the same period. +Nevertheless, I was glad to have examined it; and do not know that I have +visited many more desirable book-apartments since I left England. In my way +to the inn, I took a more leisurely survey of the collection of Mr. Mozler: +but his sister had not returned from vespers, and I was left absolutely +alone--with the exception of a female servant; who, pointing to the +book-room above stairs, as the supposed fittest place for my visit, betook +herself to her culinary occupations. Since the sight of the premises of the +younger Manoury at Caen,[77] I had never witnessed such a scene of +darkness, lumber, and confusion:--yet I must do Mr. Mozler the justice to +say, that there was much which might have repaid the toil of a minute +examination. But I was pressed for time: and the appetites of my travelling +companions might be sharpened so as to stand in need of an immediate attack +upon the cotelette and wine. + +We dined as expeditiously as ever the Trojans or Grecians did, on expecting +a sally from the foe. The red wine was, I think, the most delicious I had +then drank in Germany. A little before six, we left Freysing for +_Moosburg_: a ten mile stage; but we had not got a quarter of a league upon +our journey, when we discovered, to the right, somewhat in our rear, a more +complete view of the Tyrolese mountains than we had yet seen. They appeared +to be as huge monsters, with overtopping heads, disporting themselves in an +element of their own--many thousand feet in the air! It was dusk when we +changed horses at _Moosburg_: and the moon, then pretty far advanced +towards the full, began to supply the light of which we stood so much in +need. _Landshut_ was our next and final stage; but it was unlucky for the +first view of a church, of which the tower is considered to be the highest +in Bavaria, that we were to see it at such a moment. The air of the evening +was mild, and the sky was almost entirely covered by thin flaky clouds, as +we pushed on for Landshut. On our immediate approach to it, the valet told +us that he well remembered the entrance of the French into Landshut, on +Bonaparte's advance to Munich and Vienna. He was himself in the rear of the +assault--attending upon his master, one of the French generals. He said, +that the French entered the further end of the town from that where we +should make our entrance; and that, having gained a considerable eminence, +by a circuitous route, above the river, unobserved, they rushed +forward--bursting open the barriers--and charging the Austrians at the +point of the bayonet. The contest was neither long nor sanguinary. A +prudent surrender saved the town from pillage, and the inhabitants from +slaughter. + +On entering Landshut, without having caught any thing like a determined +view of the principal church, we found the centre of the principal street +entirely occupied by booths and stalls, for an approaching fair--to take +place within a few following days. The line of wooden buildings could +scarcely extend less than half a mile. We drove to the principal inn, which +was spacious and _tolerably_ clean; bespoke good beds, and found every +appearance of comfort. I was resolved to devote the next day entirely to +the PUBLIC LIBRARY--attached to the University, brought hither from +Ingoldstadt. Of course I had been long acquainted with the general +character of the early-printed books, from the valuable work of +Seemiller;[78] and was resolved to make especial enquiry, in the first +place, for the Aldine duodecimo of the _Greek Hours_, of which you have +already heard so much. I carried with me a letter to Professor SIEBENKEES, +the Head Librarian. In short, I anticipated a day of bibliographical +"joyaunce." + +I was not disappointed in my expectations. The day was as beautiful +without, as I found it profitable within doors. The Professor was all +kindness, and was pleased to claim a long and intimate acquaintance with +me, through certain works which need not be here mentioned: but it would be +the height of affectation _not_ to avow the satisfaction I felt in +witnessing a thoroughly cut-open, and tolerably well-thumbed copy, of the +_Bibl. Spenceriana_ lying upon his table. I instantly commenced the +examination of the library, while the Professor as readily offered his +services of assistance. "Where are your _Aldine Greek Hours_ of 1497?" +observed I. "Alas, Sir, that book exists no longer here!"--replied the +Professor, in a melancholy tone of voice, and with an expression of +countenance which indicated more than was meant by his _words_. +"Nevertheless, (rejoined I) Seemiller describes it as having been at +Ingoldstadt." "He does so--but in the conveyance of the books from thence +hither, it has _somehow_ disappeared."[79] Again the Professor _looked_ +more significantly than he _spake_. "What is invisible cannot be +seen"--observed I--"and therefore allow me to take notes of what is before +my eyes." "Most willingly and cheerfully. Here is every thing you wish. The +more you write, the greater will be my satisfaction; although, after Paris +and Munich, there is scarcely any thing worthy of particular description. +But ere you begin your labours, allow me to introduce you to the several +rooms in which the books are contained." + +I expressed great pleasure in complying with the Professor's request, and +followed him into every apartment. This library, my dear friend, is placed +in one of the prettiest situations imaginable. Some meandering branches of +the Iser intersect and fertilize considerable tracts of meadow land; +equally rich in colour and (as I learnt) in produce: and terminated by some +gently swelling hills, quite in the vicinity of the town. The whole had a +perfectly English aspect. The rooms were numerous, and commanded a variety +of views. They were well lighted by side windows, and the shelves and +wainscots were coloured chiefly in white. One small hexagonal closet, or +cabinet, on the first floor--(as is indeed the whole suite of apartments) +caught my fancy exceedingly, and won my very heart. The view before it, or +rather from three of its six sides, was exhilirating in the extreme. "Here +Mr. Professor, quoth I, (gently laying hold of his left arm) here will I +come, and, if in any spot, put together my materials for a _third_ edition +of the BIBLIOMANIA." The worthy Professor, for a little moment, thought me +serious--and quickly replied "By all means do so: and you shall be +accommodated with every thing necessary for carrying so laudable a design +into execution." It was a mere bibliomaniacal vision:[80] dissipated the +very moment I had quitted the apartment for another. + +I shall now give you the result of my examination of a few of the rarer and +early-printed books in the PUBLIC LIBRARY of Landshut. And first of +MANUSCRIPTS. An _Evangelistarium_, probably of the tenth century, is worth +particular notice; if it be only on the score of its scription--which is +perfectly beautiful: the most so of any, of such a remote period, which I +have ever seen. It is a folio volume, bound in wood, with a stamped +parchment cover of about the end of the fifteenth century. They possess a +copy of the _oldest written Laws of Bavaria_; possibly of the twelfth--but +certainly of the thirteenth century. It is a duodecimo MS. inlaid in a +quarto form. No other MS. particularly struck my fancy, in the absence of +all that was Greek or Roman: but a very splendid _Polish Missal_, in 8vo. +which belonged to Sigismund, King of Poland, in the sixteenth century, +seemed worthy of especial notice. The letters are graceful and elegant; but +the style of art is heavy, although not devoid of effect. The binding is +crimson velvet, with brass knobs, and a central metallic +ornament--apparently more ancient than the book itself. This latter may +have been possibly taken from another volume. + +Of the _Printed Books_--after the treasures of this kind seen (as the +Professor intimated) at Paris and Munich--there was comparatively very +little which claimed attention. They have a cropt and stained copy of +Mentelin's _German Bible_, but quite perfect: two copies of the _supposed_ +first _German Bible_, for one of which I proposed an exchange in a copy of +the B.S. and of the _AEdes Althorpianae_ as soon as this latter work should +be published. The proposition was acceded to on the part of the Head +Librarian, and it will be forwarded to the honest and respectable firm of +John and Arthur Arch, booksellers; who, previously to my leaving England, +had requested me to make something like a similar purchase for them--should +a fine copy of this German Bible present itself for sale.[81] + +Here I saw Mentelin's edition of the _De Civitate Dei_ of _St. Austin_: and +a good sound copy of the very rare edition of _Mammotrectus_, printed by +_Helias de Helie_, in 1470: a beautiful copy of _Martin Brand's Psalter_ of +1486, printed at Leipsic, in 4to. in a large square gothic type; and a +duplicate copy of the Leipsic Psalter of the preceding year, printed by +_Conrad Kachelovez_, in 4to. which latter I obtained for the library in St. +James's Place. There were at least ten copies of the early Block Books; of +which the _Ars Memorandi_ and the _Anti-Christ_ (with extracts inserted in +the latter from the B.S.) appeared to be the more ancient and interesting. +But I must not forget to mention a very indifferent and imperfect copy of +the _Latin Bible of Fust_, of 1462, UPON VELLUM. A few leaves in each +volume are wanting. Here too I saw the _Pfarzival_ of 1477 (as at +Strasbourg) printed in a metrical form. + +As I got among the books of the _sixteenth_ century, I was much more +gratified with the result of my researches. I will begin with a very choice +article: which is nothing less than a copy of the _Complutensian +Polyglott_, purchased by Eckius, in 1521, of the celebrated Demetrius +Chalcondylas--as the following coeval ms. memorandum attests: "Rome empta +biblia ista P Eckium P xiiij ducatis largis a Demetrio Calcondyla anno +1521; mortuo iam Leone Papa in Decembri." The death of Leo is here +particularly mentioned, because, during his life, it is said that that +Pontiff prohibited the sale of the work in question. The copy is fair and +sound; but both this, and a duplicate copy, wants the sixth volume, being +the Dictionary or Vocabulary. The mention of Eckius leads me to notice a +little anecdote connected with him. He was, as you may have read, one of +the most learned, most eloquent, and most successful of Luther's +antagonists. He was also the principal theological Professor in the +University of Ingoldstadt. They preserve at Landshut, brought from the +former place, the chair and the doctor's cap of their famous Anti-Lutheran +champion. You see both of these in one of the principal apartments of the +Public Library. I was requested to sit in the chair of the renowned Eckius, +and to put his doctorial bonnet upon my head. I did both:--but, if I had +sat for a century to come, I should never have fancied myself Eckius ... +for more reasons than _one_. + +The Sub Librarian, who is a Catholic, (Professor Siebenkees being a +Protestant) has shewn great good sense in preserving all the tracts, which +have fallen in his way, both _for_ and _against_ the Lutheran controversy. +You go between two small book-cases, or sets of shelves, and find _Luther_ +in front, and _Eckius_ and his followers in the rear of you; or vice versa. +A considerable number of rare and curious little pieces of _Erasmus_ and +_Melancthon_, are mixed in this collection, which is far from being small +either in number or value. In this interesting collection, I saw a good +copy of Ross's work against Luther, of the date of 1523, which appeared to +me to be printed by Pynson.[82] It had the autograph of Sir Thomas +More--("_Thom^{9} mor^{9}"--_) who indeed is said to have been the author +of the work. This very copy belonged to Eckius, and was given to him by the +author, when Eckius came over to England in 1525: the fact being thus +attested in the hand-writing of the latter: "_Codex iste dono datus est +mihi Johanni Eckio ab illius autore in Anglia, dum visendi cupidus in +Insulam traiecissem, 1525, Augusto x_." The worthy Professor next put into +my hands what he considered to be an _absolutely unique_ copy of _Der Veis +Ritter_, in 1514, folio: adding, that no other copy of the adventures of +the _White Knight_, of the _same_ date, was known to bibliographers. I +assented to the observation--equally from courtesy and sheer ignorance. But +surely this is somewhat difficult to believe. + +There was nothing further that demanded a distinct registry; and so, making +my bow, and shaking hands with the worthy Librarian very heartily, I +quitted this congenial spot;--not however before I had been introduced to a +Professor of botany (whose name has now escaped me) who was busily engaged +in making extracts in the reading room, with a short pipe by the side of +him, and a small red tasselled cap upon his head. He had an expressive +countenance; understood our language so as to read Shakespeare with +facility, and even with rapture: and to a question of mine, whether he was +not much gratified with Schlegel's critical remarks upon that dramatist, he +replied, that "he did not admire them so much, as, from the Edinburgh +Review, the English appeared to do." To another question--"which of +Shakspeare's plays pleased him most?" he replied, unhesitatingly, "_Romeo +and Juliet_." I own, I should have thought that the mystical, or +philosophy-loving, brain of a German would have preferred _Hamlet_. + +On leaving the library, I surveyed the town with tolerably minute +attention. After Munich, it appeared sufficiently small. Its population +indeed scarcely exceeds 8000. The day turned out very beautiful, and my +first and principal attention was directed to _St. Martin's Church_; of +which the tower (as I think I before told you) is considered to be full 420 +feet in height, and the loftiest in Bavaria. But its height is its +principal boast. Both in detail, and as a whole, the architecture is +miserably capricious and tasteless. It is built of red brick. Many of the +monuments in the church-yard, but more particularly some mural ones, struck +me as highly characteristic of the country. Among these rude specimens of +sculpture, the representation of _Our Saviour's Agony in the Garden_--the +favourite subject in Bavaria--was singularly curious to a fresh eye. It may +be between two and three hundred years old; but has suffered no injury. +They have, in the principal street, covered walks, for foot-passengers, in +a piazza-fashion, a little resembling those at Chester: but neither so old +nor so picturesque. The intermixture of rural objects, such as trees and +grass plats--in the high street of Landshut--renders a stroll in the town +exceedingly agreeable to the lover of picturesque scenery. The booths and +stalls were all getting ready for the fair--which I learnt was to last +nearly a fortnight: and which I was too thankful to have escaped. + +We left Landshut on a fine sun-shining afternoon, purposing to sleep at the +second stage--_Neuemarkt_--(Angl. "Newmarket") in the route to Salzburg. +_Neuemarkt_ is little better than a small village, but we fared well in +every respect at the principal, if not the only, inn in the place. Our beds +were even luxurious. Neuemarkt will be quickly forgotten: but the following +stage--or _Altoeting_--will not be so easily banished from our recollection. +We reached it to a late breakfast--after passing through the most fertile +and beautifully varied country which I had yet seen--and keeping almost +constantly in view the magnificent chain of the Tyrolese mountains, into +the very heart of which we seemed to be directing our course. ALTOeTING is +situated upon an eminence. We drove into the Place, or Square, and alighted +at what seemed to be a large and respectable inn. Two ladies and two +gentlemen had just arrived before us, from Munich, by a different route: +and while I was surveying them, almost mistaking them for English, and had +just exchanged salutations, my valet came and whispered in my ear that +"these good folks were come on a pilgrimage to the shrine of the _Black +Virgin_." While I was wondering at this intelligence, the valet continued: +"you see that small church in the centre of the square--it is _there_ where +the richest shrine in Bavaria is deposited; and to-day is a 'high day' with +the devotees who come to worship." On receiving this information, we all +three prepared to visit this mean-looking little church. I can hardly +describe to you with sufficient accuracy, the very singular, and to me +altogether new, scene which presented itself on reaching the church. There +is a small covered way--in imitation of cloisters--which goes entirely +round it. The whole of the interior of these cloisters is covered with +little pictures, images, supposed relics--and, in short votive offerings of +every description, to the Holy Virgin, to whom the church is dedicated. The +worshippers believe that the mother of Christ was an _African_ by birth, +and therefore you see little black images of the virgin stuck up in every +direction. At first, I mistook the whole for a parcel of pawnbrokers shops +near each other: and eyed the several articles with a disposition, more or +less, to become a purchaser of a few. + +But the sound of the chant, and the smell of the frankincense, broke in +upon my speculations, and called my attention to the interior. I entered +with a sort of rush of the congregation. This interior struck me as being +scarcely thirty feet by twenty; but the eye is a deceitful rule in these +cases. However, I continued to advance towards the altar; the heat, at the +same time, being almost suffocating. An iron grating separated the little +chapel and shrine of our _Black Lady_ from the other portion of the +building; and so numerous, so constant, and apparently so close, had been +the pressure and friction of each succeeding congregation, for probably +more than two centuries, that some of these rails, or bars, originally at +least one inch square, had been worn to _half_ the size of their pristine +dimensions. It was with difficulty, on passing them, that I could obtain a +peep at the altar; which, however, I saw sufficiently distinctly to +perceive that it was entirely covered with silver vases, cups, dishes, and +other _solid_ proofs of devotional ardour--which in short seemed to reach +to the very roof. Having thus far gratified my curiosity, I retreated as +quickly as possible; for not a window was open, and the little light which +these windows emitted, together with the heat of the place, produced so +disagreeable an effect as to make me apprehensive of sudden illness. On +reaching the outward door, and enjoying the freedom of respiration, I made +a sort of secret, but natural vow, that I would never again visit the +shrine of _Our Black Lady_ on a festival day. + +An excellent breakfast--together with the neatness and civility of the +female attendants--soon counter-acted the bad effects of the hydrogen +contained within the walls of the place of worship we had just quitted. +Every thing around us wore a cheerful and pleasing aspect; inasmuch as +every thing reminded us of our own country. The servants were numerous, and +all females; with their hair braided in a style of elegance which would not +have disgraced the first drawing-room in London. We quaffed coffee out of +cups which were perfectly of the Brobdignagian calibre; and the bread had +the lightness and sweetness of cake. Between eleven and twelve, Charles +Rohfritsch (alias our valet) announced that the carriage and horses were at +the door; and on springing into it, we bade adieu to the worthy landlady +and her surrounding attendants, in a manner quite natural to travellers who +have seen something very unusual and interesting, and who have in other +respects been well satisfied with good fare, and civil treatment. Not one +of the circle could speak a word of French; so I told Charles to announce +to them that we would not fail to spread the fame of their coffee, eggs, +and bread, all over England! They laughed heartily--and then gave us a +farewell salutation ... by dropping very-formal curtesies--their +countenances instantly relapsing into a corresponding gravity of +expression. + +In three minutes the inn, the square, and the church of the _Black Virgin_, +were out of sight. The postilion put his bugle to his mouth, and played a +lively air--in which the valet immediately joined. The musical infatuation, +for an instant, extended to ourselves; for it was a tune which we had often +heard in England, and which reminded me, in particular, of days of past +happiness--never to return! But the sky was bright, the breeze soft, the +road excellent, and the view perfectly magnificent. It was evident that we +were now nearing the Tyrolese mountains. "At the foot of yonder second, +sharp-pointed hill, lies SALZBURG"--said the valet: on receiving his +intelligence from the post-boy. We seemed to be yet some twenty miles +distant. To the right of the hill pointed out, the mountains rose with a +loftier swell, and, covered by snow, the edges or terminations of their +summits seemed to melt into the sky. + +Our road now became more hilly, and the time flew away quickly, without our +making an apparently proportionate progress towards Salzburg. At length we +reached _Burckhausen_; which is flanked by the river _Salz_ on one side, +and defended by a lofty citadel on the other. It struck us, upon the whole, +as rather a romantic spot: but the road, on entering the town, is in some +places fearfully precipitous. The stratum was little better than rock. We +were not long in changing horses, and made off instantly for _Tittmaning_; +the last stage but one on that side of Salzburg. The country wore a more +pleasing aspect. Stately trees spread their dark foliage on each side of +the road; between the stems, and through the branches of which, we caught +many a "spirit-stirring" view of the mountains in the neighbourhood of +Salzburg--which, on our nearer approach, seemed to have attained double +their first grandeur. After having changed horses at _Tittmaning_, and +enjoyed a delightfully picturesque ride from Burckhausen thither, we dined +at the following stage, _Lauffen_; a poor, yet picturesque and +wildly-situated, large village. While the dinner was preparing, I walked to +the extremity of the street where the inn is situated, and examined a small +church, built there upon high ground. The cloisters were very striking; +narrow and low, but filled with mural monuments, of a singular variety of +character. It was quite evident, from numberless exhibitions of +art--connected with religious worship--along the road-side, or attached to +churches--that we had now entered a territory quite different from that of +Baden, Wirtemberg, and even the northern part of Bavaria. Small crucifixes, +and a representation of the _Agony in the Garden_, &c, presented themselves +frequently to our view; and it seemed as if Austria were a land of even +greater superstition than Bavaria. + +On concluding our dinner, and quitting Lauffen, it grew dusk, and the rain +began to fall in a continued drizzling shower. "It always rains at +Salzburg, sir," said the valet--repeating the information of the post boy. +This news made us less cheerful on leaving Lauffen than we were on quitting +_Altoeting_: but "hope travelled through"--even till we reached the banks of +the river Salz, within a mile or two of Salzburg--where the Austrian +dominions begin, and those of Bavaria terminate. Our carriage was here +stopped, and the trunks were examined, very slightly, on each side of the +river. The long, wooden, black and yellow-striped bar of Austria--reaching +quite across the road--forbade further progress, till such examination, and +a payment of four or five florins, as the barrier-tax,--had been complied +with. I had imagined that, if our trunks had been examined on _one_ side of +the water, there needed no examination of them on the _other_; unless we +had had intercourse with some water fiend in the interval. It seemed, +however, that I reasoned illogically. We were detained full twenty minutes, +by a great deal of pompous palaver--signifying nothing--on the part of the +Austrian commissioner; so that it was quite dark when we entered the +barriers of the town of Salzburg:--mountains, trees, meadows, and rivulets +having been long previously obliterated from our view. + +The abrupt ascents and descents of the streets--and the quivering +reflection of the lights from the houses, upon the surface of the river +_Salz_--soon convinced us that we were entering a very extraordinary town. +But all was silent: neither the rattling of carriages, nor the tread of +foot-passengers, nor the voice of the labourer, saluted our ear on entering +Salzburg--when we drove briskly to the _Goelden-Schiff_, in the _Place de la +Cathedrale_, whence I am now addressing you. This inn is justly considered +to be the best in the town; but what a melancholy reception--on our +arrival! No rush of feet, no display of candles, nor elevation of voices, +nor ringing of the bell--- as at the inns on our great roads in +England--but ... every body and every, thing was invisible. Darkness and +dulness seemed equally to prevail. One feeble candle at length glimmered at +the extremity of a long covered arch-way, while afterwards, to the right, +came forward two men--with what seemed to be a farthing candle between +them, and desired to know the object of our halting? "Beds, and a two-day's +residence in your best suite of apartments," replied I quickly--for they +both spoke the French language. We were made welcome by one of them, who +proved to be the master, and who helped us to alight. A long, and latterly +a wet journey, had completely fatigued us--and after mounting up one high +stair-case, and rambling along several loosely-floored corridors--we +reached our apartments, which contained each a very excellent bed. Wax +candles were placed upon the tables: a fire was lighted: coffee brought up; +and a talkative, and civil landlord soon convinced us that we had no reason +to grumble at our quarters.[83] + +On rising the next morning, we gazed upon almost every building with +surprise and delight; and on catching a view of the CITADEL--in the back +ground, above the Place de la Cathedrale--it seemed as if it were situated +upon an eminence as lofty as Quito. I quickly sought the _Monastery of St. +Peter_;--the oldest in the Austrian dominions. I had heard, and even read +about its library; and imagined that I was about to view books, of which no +bibliographer had ever yet--even in a vision--received intelligence. But +you must wait a little ere I take you with me to that monastic library. + +There is a pleasing chime of bells, which are placed outside of a small +cupola in the _Place_, in which stands the cathedral. I had heard this +chime during the night--when I would rather have heard ... any thing else. +What struck me the first thing, on looking out of window, was, the quantity +of grass--such as Ossian describes within the walls of +_Belcluthah_--growing between the pavement in the square. "Wherefore was +this?" "Sir, (replied the master of the Goelden Schiff) this town is +undergoing a gradual and melancholy depopulation. Before the late war, +there were 27,000 inhabitants in Salzburg: at present, there are scarcely +15,000. This _Place_ was the constant resort of foreigners as well as +townsmen. They filled every portion of it. Now, you observe there is only a +narrow, worn walk, which gives indication of the route of a few straggling +pedestrians. Even the very chimes of yonder bells (which must have +_delighted_ you so much at every third hour of the night!) have lost their +pleasing tone;--and sound as if they foreboded still further desolation to +Salzburg." The man seemed to feel as he spoke; and I own that I was touched +by so animated and unexpected a reply. + +I examined two or three old churches, of the Gothic order, of which I have +already forgotten the names--unless they be those of _Ste. Trinite_ and +_St. Sebastien_. In one of them--it being a festival--there was a very +crowded congregation; while the priest was addressing his flock from the +steps of the altar, in a strain of easy and impassioned eloquence. Wherever +I went--and upon almost whatever object I gazed--there appeared to be +traces of curious, if not of remote, antiquity. Indeed the whole town +abounds with such--among which are some Roman relics, which have been +recently (1816) described by Goldenstein, in a quarto volume published +here, and written in the German language.[84] + +But you are impatient for the MONASTERY OF ST. PETER.[85] Your curiosity +shall be no longer thwarted; and herewith I proceed to give you an account +of my visit to that venerable and secluded spot--the abode of silence and +of sanctity. It was my first appearance in a fraternity of MONKS; and those +of the order of ST. BENEDICT. I had no letter of recommendation; but, +taking my valet with me, I knocked at the outer gate--and received +immediate admission within some ancient and low cloisters: of which the +pavement consisted entirely of monumental slabs. The valet sought the +librarian, to make known my wishes of examining the library; and I was left +alone to contemplate the novel and strange scene which presented itself on +all sides. There were two quadrangles, each of sufficiently limited +dimensions. In the first, there were several young Monks playing at +skittles in the centre of the lawn. Both the bowl and pins were of +unusually large dimensions, and the direction of the former was confined +within boards, fixed in the earth. These athletic young Benedictins (they +might be between twenty and thirty years of age) took little or no notice +of me; and while my eye was caught by a monumental tablet, which presented +precisely the same coat-armour as the device used by Fust and +Schoeffher,--and which belonged to a family that had been buried about two +hundred and fifty years--the valet returned, and announced that the +Principal of the College desired to see me immediately. + +I obeyed the summons in an instant, and followed Rohfritsch up stairs. +There, on the first floor, a middle-aged monk received me, and accompanied +me to the chamber of the President. On rapping at the door with his +knuckles, a hollow but deep-toned voice commanded the visitor to enter. I +was introduced with some little ceremony, but was compelled, most +reluctantly, to have recourse to Latin, in conversing with the Principal. +He rose to receive me very graciously; and I think I never before witnessed +a countenance which seemed to _tell_ of so much hard fagging and +meditation. He must have read every _Father_, in the _editio princeps_ of +his works. His figure and physiognomical expression bespoke a rapid +approach to the grand climacteric of human life. The deeply-sunk, but large +and black, beaming eye--the wan and shrivelled cheek--the nose, somewhat +aquiline, with nostrils having all the severity of sculpture--sharp, thin +lips--an indented chin--and a highly raised forehead, surmounted by a +little black silk cap--(which was taken off on the first salutation) all, +added to the gloom of the place, and the novelty of the costume, impressed +me in a manner not easily to be forgotten. My visit was very short, as I +wished it to be; and it was concluded with an assurance, on the part of the +Principal, that the librarian would be at home on the following day, and +ready to attend me to the library:--but, added the Principal, on parting, +"we have nothing worthy of the inspection of a traveller who has visited +the libraries of Paris and Munich. At Moelk, you will see fine books, and a +fine apartment for their reception." + +For the sake of _keeping_, in the order of my narrative, I proceed to give +you an account of the visit to the library, which took place on the morrow, +immediately after breakfast. It had rained the whole of the preceding +night, and every hill and mountain about Salzburg was obscured by a +continuation of the rain on the following day. I began to think the +postilion spoke but too true, when he said "it always rains at Salzburg." +Yet the air was oppressive; and huge volumes of steam, as from a cauldron, +rose up from the earth, and mingled with the descending rain. In five +minutes, I was within the cloisters of the monastery, and recognised some +of the _skittling_ young monks--whom I had seen the day before. One of them +addressed me very civilly, in the French language, and on telling him the +object of my visit, he said he would instantly conduct me to Mr. GAERTNER, +the librarian. On reaching the landing place, I observed a long +corridore--where a somewhat venerable Benedictin was walking, apparently to +and fro, with a bunch of keys in one hand, and a thick embossed-quarto +under his other arm. The very sight of him reminded me of good _Michael +Neander_, the abbot of the monastery of St. Ildefonso--the friend of +Budaeus[86]--of whom (as you may remember) there is a print in the _Rerum +Germanicarum Scriptores_, published in 1707, folio. + +"That, Sir, is the librarian:"--observed my guide: "he waits to receive +you." I walked quickly forward and made obeisance. Anon, one of the larger +keys in this said bunch was applied to a huge lock, and the folding and +iron-cramped doors of the library were thrown open. I descended by a few +steps into the ante-room, and from thence had a completely fore-shortened +view of the library. It is small, but well filled, and undoubtedly contains +some ancient and curious volumes: but several _hiatuses_ gave indication +that there had been a few transportations to Vienna or Munich. The small +gothic windows were open, and the rain now absolutely descended in +torrents. Nevertheless, I went quickly and earnestly to work. A few slight +ladders were placed against the shelves, in several parts of the library, +by means of which I left no division unexplored. The librarian, after +exchanging a few words very pleasantly, in the French language, left me +alone, unreservedly to prosecute my researches. I endeavoured to benefit +amply by this privilege; but do not know, when, in the course of three or +four hours, I have turned over the leaves of so many volumes ... some of +which seemed to have been hardly opened since they were first deposited +there ... to such little purpose. + +However, he is a bad sportsman who does not hit _something_ in a +well-stocked cover; and on the return of the librarian, he found me busily +engaged in laying aside certain volumes--with a written list +annexed--"which might _possibly_, be disposed of ... for a valuable +consideration?" "Your proposal shall be attended to, but this cannot be +done immediately. You must leave the _consideration_ to the Principal and +the elder brethren of the monastery." I was quite charmed by this response; +gave my address, and taking a copy of the list, withdrew. I enclose you the +list or catalogue in question.[87] Certainly I augur well of the result: +but no early _Virgil_, nor _Horace_, nor _Ovid_, nor _Lucretius_, nor even +an early _Greek Bible_ or _Testament_! What struck me, on the score of +rarity, as most deserving of being secured, were some little scarce +grammatical and philological pieces, by the French scholars of the early +part of the sixteenth century; and some controversial tracts about Erasmus, +Luther, and Eckius. + +So much for the monastic visit to St. Peter's at Salzburg; and yet you are +not to quit it, without learning from me that this town was once famous for +other similar establishments[88]--which were said anciently to vie with the +greater part of those in Austria, for respectability of character, and +amplitude of possessions. At present, things of this sort seem to be +hastening towards a close, and I doubt whether the present principal will +have half a dozen successors. It remains only to offer a brief sketch of +some few other little matters which took place at Salzburg; and then to +wish you good bye--as our departure is fixed for this very afternoon. We +are to travel from hence through a country of mountains and lakes, to the +_Monastery of Chremsminster_, in the route to Lintz--on the high road to +Vienna. I have obtained a letter to the Vice-President of _Moelk monastery_, +from a gentleman here, who has a son under his care; so that, ere I reach +the capital of Austria, I shall have seen a pretty good sprinkling of +_Benedictins_--as each of these monasteries is of the order of St. +Benedict. + +The evening of the second day of our visit here, enabled me to ascertain +something of the general character of the scenery contiguous to the town. +This scenery is indeed grand and interesting. The summit of the lowest hill +in the neighbourhood is said to be 4000 feet above the level of the sea. I +own I have strong doubts about this. It is with the heights of mountains, +as with the numbers of books in a great library,--we are apt to over-rate +each. However, those mountains, which seem to be covered with perennial +snow, must be doubtless 8000 feet above the same level.[89] To obtain a +complete view of them, you must ascend some of the nether hills. This we +intended to do--but the rain of yesterday has disappointed all our hopes. +The river _Salz_ rolls rapidly along; being fed by mountain torrents. There +are some pretty little villas in the neighbourhood, which are frequently +tenanted by the English; and one of them, recently inhabited by Lord +Stanhope, (as the owner informed me,) has a delightful view of the citadel, +and the chain of snow-capt mountains to the left. The numerous rapid +rivulets, flowing into the Salz, afford excellent trout-fishing; and I +understood that Sir Humphry Davy, either this summer, or the last, +exercised his well-known skill in this diversion here. The hills abound +with divers sorts of four-footed and winged game; and, in short, (provided +I could be furnished with a key of free admission into the library of St. +Peter's Monastery) I hardly know where I could pass the summer and autumn +months more completely to my satisfaction than at SALZBURG. What might not +the pencils of Turner and Calcott here accomplish, during the mellow lights +and golden tints of autumn? + +Of course, in a town so full of curiosities of every description, I am not +able, during so short a stay in it, to transmit you any intelligence about +those sights which are vulgarly called the _Lions_. But I must not close +this rambling, desultory letter, without apprising you that I have walked +from one end of the _Moenschberg_ to the other. This is an excavation +through a hard and high rocky hill, forming the new gate, or entrance into +the town. The success of this bold undertaking was as complete, as its +utility is generally acknowledged: nor shall it tarnish the lustre of the +_mitre_ to say, that it was a BISHOP of Salzburg who conceived, and +superintended the execution of, the plan. A very emphatic inscription +eternises his memory: "TE SAXA LOQUUNTUR." The view, from the further end +of it, is considered to be one of the finest in Europe: but, when I +attempted to enjoy it, every feature of the landscape was obscured by +drizzling rain. "It always rains at Salzburg!"--said, as you may remember, +the postilion from Lauffen. It may do so: but a gleam of _sunshine_ always +enlivens that moment, when I subscribe myself, as I do now, your +affectionate and faithful friend. + + +[77] See vol. i. p. 199. + +[78] It is thus entitled: _Bibliothecae Ingolstadiensis Incunabula + Typographica_, 1787, 4to.: containing four parts. A carefully + executed, and indispensably necessary, volume in every bibliographical + collection. + +[79] [I rejoice to add, in this edition of my Tour, that the LOST SHEEP has + been FOUND. It had not straggled from the fold when I was at Landshut; + but had got _penned_ so snugly in some unfrequented corner, as + not to be perceived.] + +[80] [A vision, however, which AGAIN haunts me!] + +[81] This copy has since reached England, and has been arrayed in a goodly + coat of blue morocco binding. Whether it remain in Cornhill at this + precise moment, I cannot take upon me to state; but I can confidently + state that there is _not a finer copy_ of the edition in question + in his Britannic Majesty's united dominions. [This copy + now--1829--ceases to exist... in Cornhill.] + +[82] On consulting the _Typog. Antiquities_, vol. ii. p. 510, I found + my conjectures confirmed. The reader will there see the full title of + the work--beginning thus: "_Eruditissimi Viri Guilelmi Rossei opus + elegans, doctum, festiuum, pium, quo pulcherrime retegit, ac refellit, + insanas Lutheri calumnias," &c._ It is a volume of considerable + rarity. + +[83] The charges were moderate. A bottle of the best red ordinary wine + (usually--the best in every respect) was somewhere about 1s. 6d. Our + lodgings, two good rooms, including the charge of three wax candles, + were about four shillings per day. The bread was excellent, and the + _cuisine_ far from despicable. + +[84] We learn from Pez (_Austriacar. Rer._ vol. ii. col. 185, taken + from the Chronicle of the famous _Admont Monastery_,) that, in + the year 1128, the cathedral and the whole city of Salzburg were + destroyed by fire. So, that the antiquity of this, and of other + relics, must not be pushed to too remote a period. + +[85] Before the reader commences the above account of a visit to this + monastery, he may as well be informed that the SUBJOINED bird's-eye + view of it, together with an abridged history (compiled from + Trithemius, and previous chroniclers) appears in the + _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, published in 1619, folio. + + [Illustration] + + The monastery is there described as--"et vetustate et dignitate nulli + e Germaniae monasteriis secundum." Rudbertus is supposed to have been + its founder:--"repertis edificiis basilicam in honore SANCTI PETRI + construxit:" _Chronicon Norimberg._ fol. cliii.; edit. 1493. But + this took place towards the end of the sixth century. From Godfred's + _Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. i. pp. 37, 39, 52--the + library of this Monastery, there called "antiquissima," seems to have + had some very ancient and valuable MSS. In Stengelius's time, (1620) + the monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing condition. + +[86] As it is just possible the reader may not have a very distinct + recollection of this worthy old gentleman, and ambulatory abbot--it + may be acceptable to him to know, that, in the _Thanatologia of + Budaeus_ (incorporated in the _Tres Selecti Scriptores Rerum + Germanicarum_, 1707, folio, p. 27, &c.) the said Neander is + described as a native of Sorau, in Bohemia, and as dying in his 70th + year, A.D. 1595, having been forty-five years Principal of the + monastery of St. Ildefonso. A list of his works, and a laudatory Greek + epigram, by Budaeus, "UPON HIS EFFIGY," follow. + +[87] For the sake of juxta-position I here lay before the reader a short + history of the issue, or progress of the books in question to their + present receptacle, in St. James's Place. A few days after reaching + _Vienna_, I received the following "pithy and pleasant" epistle + from the worthy librarian, "Mon tres-reverend Pasteur. En esperant que + vous etes arrive a Vienne, a bon port, j'ai l'honneur de declarer a + vous, que le prix fixe des livres, que vous avez choisi, et dont la + table est ajoutee, est 40 louis d'or, ou 440 florins. Agreez + l'assurance, &c." + + + [Autographs] + + I wrote to my worthy friend Mr. Nockher at Munich to settle this + subject immediately; who informed me, in reply, that the good monks + would not part with a single volume till they had received "the money + upon the nail,"--"l'argent comptant." That dexterous negotiator + quickly supplied them with the same; received the case of books; and + sent them down the Rhine to Holland, from thence to England: where + they arrived in safe and perfect condition. They are all described in + the second volume of the _AEdes Athorpianae_; together with a + beautiful fac-simile of an illuminated head, or portrait, of + _Gaietanus de Tienis_, who published a most elegantly printed + work upon Aristotle's four books of Meteors, _printed by Maufer_, + in 1476, folio; and of which the copy in the Salzburg library was + adorned by the head (just mentioned) of the Editor. _AEd. + Althorp._ vol. ii. p. 134. Among the books purchased, were two + exquisite copies, filled with wood cuts, relating to the AEsopian + Fables: a copy of one of which, entitled _AEsopus Moralisatus_, + was, I think, sold at the sale of the Duke of Marlborough's books, in + 1819, for somewhere about 13l. + +[88] In Hartmann Schedel's time, Salzburg--which was then considered as the + CAPITAL OF BAVARIA--"was surrounded by great walls, and was adorned by + many beautiful buildings of temples and monasteries." A view of + Salzburg, which was formerly called JUVAVIA, is subjoined in the + _Nuremberg Chronicle_, fol. CLIII. _edit._ 1493. Consult + also the _Chronicon Gotvvicense_, 1732, folio, pt. ii. p. + 760--for some particulars respecting the town taking its name from the + river _Juvavia_ or _Igonta_. Salzburg was an Archbishopric founded by + Charlemagne: see the _Script. Rer. German._ edited by _Nidanus et + Struvius_, 1726 folio, vol. i. p. 525. + +[89] On the morning following my arrival at Salzburg, I purchased a card, + and small chart of the adjacent country and mountains. Of the latter, + the _Gross Klokner_, _Klein Klokner_, are each about 12000 + feet above the level of the sea; The _Weisbachhorn_ is about + 11000 feet of similar altitude; _Der Hohe Narr_ about the same + height; and the _Hohe Warte_ about 10,000; while the + _Ankogl_ and _Herzog Ernst_, are 9000 each. The lowest is + the _Gaisberg_ of 4000 feet; but there is a regular gradation in + height, from the latter, to the Gross Klokner, including about 25 + mountains. + + [Illustration] + + + + +LETTER VIII. + + +SALZBURG. TO CHREMSMINSTER. THE LAKE GMUNDEN. THE MONASTERY OF +CHREMSMINSTER. LINTZ. + + +_Lintz; on the road to Vienna, Aug. 26, 1818._ + +In order that I may not be too much in arrear in my correspondence, I +snatch an hour or two at this place, to tell you what have been my sights +and occupations since I quitted the extraordinary spot whence I last +addressed you. Learn therefore, at the outset, that I have been, if +possible, more gratified than heretofore. I have shaped my course along +devious roads, by the side of huge impending mountains; have skirted more +than one lake of wide extent and enchanting transparency; have navigated +the celebrated _Lake of Gmunden_ from one end to the other--the greater +part of which is surrounded by rocky yet fertilized mountains of a +prodigious height;--have entered one of the noblest and richest monasteries +of Austria--and darted afterwards through a country, on every side pleasing +by nature, and interesting from history. My only regret is, that all this +has been accomplished with too much precipitancy; and that I have been +compelled to make sketches in my mind, as it were, when the beauty of the +objects demanded a finished picture. + +I left Salzburg on the afternoon after writing my last epistle; and left it +with regret at not having been able to pay a visit to the salt mines of +_Berchtesgaden_ and _Hallein_: but "non omnia possumus omnes." The first +stage, to _Koppf_, was absolutely up hill, the whole way, a short German +league and a half: probably about seven English miles. We were compelled to +put a leader to our two horses, and even then we did little more than +creep. But the views of the country we had left behind us, as we continued +ascending, were glorious in the extreme. Each snow-capt mountain appeared +to rise in altitude--as we continued to mount. Our views however were mere +snatches. The sun was about to set in a bed of rain. Large black clouds +arose; which, although they added to the grandeur of picturesque +composition, prevented us from distinctly surveying the adjacent country. +Masses of deep purple floated along the fir-clad hills: now partially +illumined by the sun's expiring rays, and now left in deep shadow--to be +succeeded by the darkness of night. + +The sun was quite set as we stopped to change horses at _Koppf_: and a sort +of premature darkness came on:--which, however, was relieved for a short +time by a sky of partial but unusual clearness of tint. The whole had a +strange and magical effect. As the horses were being put to, I stepped +across the road to examine the interior of a small church--where I +observed, in the side aisle, a group of figures of the size of life--which, +at that sombre hour, had a very extraordinary effect. I approached nearer, +and quickly perceived that this group was intended to represent the _Agony +in the Garden of Gethsemane_. Our Saviour, at a little distance, was upon +his knees, praying; and the piety of some _religieuse_ (as I afterwards +learnt) had caused a white handkerchief to be fixed between his hands. The +disciples were represented asleep, upon the ground. On coming close to the +figures (which were raised upon a platform, of half the height of a man) +and removing the moss upon which they were recumbent, I found that they +were mere _trunks_, without legs or feet: the moss having been artfully +placed, so as to conceal these defects when the objects were seen at a +distance. Of course it was impossible to refrain from a smile, on +witnessing such a sight. + +The horses were harnessed in ten minutes; and, having no longer any +occasion for a leader, we pursued our route with the usual number of two. +The evening was really enchanting; and upon the summit of one of the +loftiest of the hills--which rose perpendicularly as a bare sharp piece of +rock--we discerned a pole, which we conjectured was fixed there for some +particular purpose. The postilion told us that it was the stem of the +largest fir-tree in the country, and that there were annual games +celebrated around it--in the month of May, when its summit was crowned with +a chaplet. Our route was now skirted on each side, alternately, by water +and by mountain. The _Mande See_, _Aber See_, and _Aller See_, (three +beautiful lakes) lay to the left; of which we caught, occasionally, from +several commanding heights, most magnificent views--as the last light of +day seemed to linger upon their surfaces. They are embosomed in scenery of +the most beautiful description. When we reached _St. Gilgen_, or _Gilling_, +we resolved upon passing the night there. + +It was quite dark, and rather late, when we entered this miserable village; +but within half a league of it, we ran a very narrow chance of being +overturned, and precipitated into a roaring, rapid stream, just below the +road--along the banks of which we had been sometime directing our course. A +fir-pole lay across the road, which was undiscernible from the darkness of +the night; and the carriage, receiving a violent concussion, and losing its +balance for a moment--leaning over the river--it was doubtful what would be +the issue. Upon entering the archway of the inn, or rather public +house--from the scarcity of candles, and the ignorance of rustic ostlers, +the door of the carriage (it being accidentally open) was completely +wrenched from the body. + +Never, since our night's lodging at _Saudrupt_,[90] had we taken up our +quarters at so miserable an auberge. The old woman, our landlady, seemed +almost to cast a suspicious eye upon us; but the valet in a moment disarmed +her suspicions. It was raw, cold, and late; but the kitchen fire was yet in +full force, and a few earthen-ware utensils seemed to contain something in +the shape of eatables. You should know, that the kitchen fire-places, in +Germany, are singularly situated; at least all those at the public inns +where we have stopped. A platform, made of brick, of the height of about +three feet, is raised in the centre of the floor. The fire is in the centre +of the platform. You look up, and see directly the open sky through the +chimney, which is of a yawning breadth below, but which narrows gradually +towards the top. It was so cold, that I requested a chair to be placed upon +the platform, and I sat upon it--close to the kitchen fire--receiving very +essential benefit from the position. All the kitchen establishment was +quickly put in requisition: and, surrounded by cook and scullion--pots, +pans, and culinary vessels of every description--I sat like a monarch upon +his throne: while Mr. Lewis was so amused at the novelty of the scene, that +he transferred it to his sketch-book. + +It was midnight when we attacked our _potage_--in the only visitor's +bed-room in the house. Two beds, close to each other, each on a sloping +angle of nearly forty-five degrees, were to receive our wearied bodies. The +_materiel_ of the beds was _straw_; but the sheets were white and well +aired, and edged (I think) with a narrow lace; while an eider down +quilt--like a super-incumbent bed--was placed upon the first quilt. It was +scarcely day-light, when Mr. Lewis found himself upon the floor, awoke from +sleep, having gradually slid down. By five o'clock, the smith's hammer was +heard at work below--upon the door of the dismembered carriage--and by the +time we had risen at eight o'clock, the valet reported to us that the job +was just _then_ ... in the very state in which it was at its +_commencement_! So much for the reputation of the company of white-smiths +at _St. Gilgen_. We were glad to be off by times; but I must not quit this +obscure and humble residence without doing the landlady the justice to say, +that her larder and kitchen enabled us to make a very hearty breakfast. +This, for the benefit of future travellers--benighted like ourselves. + +The morning lowered, and some soft rain fell as we started: but, by +degrees, the clouds broke away, and we obtained a complete view of the +enchanting country through which we passed--as we drove along by the banks +of the _Aber_ lake, to _Ischel_. One tall, sharp, and spirally-terminating +rock, in particular, kept constantly in view before us, on the right; of +which the base and centre were wholly feathered with fir. It rose with an +extraordinary degree of abruptness, and seemed to be twice as high as the +spire of Strasbourg cathedral. To the left, ran sparkling rivulets, as +branches of the three lakes just mentioned. An endless variety of +picturesque beauty--of trees, rocks, greenswards, wooded heights, and +glen-like passes--canopied by a sky of the deepest and most brilliant +blue--were the objects upon which we feasted till we reached _Ischel_: +where we changed horses. Here we observed several boats, of a peculiarly +long and narrow form, laden with salt, making their way for the _Steyer_ +and _Ens_ rivers, and from thence to the Danube. To describe what we saw, +all the way till we reached the _Traun See_, or the LAKE OF GMUNDEN, would +be only a repetition of the previous description. + +At _Inderlambach_, close to the lake in question, we stopped to dine. This +is a considerable village, or even country town. On the heights are +well-trimmed gravel walks, from which you catch a commanding view of the +hither end of the lake; and of which the sight cheered us amazingly. We +longed to be afloat. There is a great manufactory of salt carried on upon +these heights--at the foot of which was said to be the best inn in the +town. Thither we drove: and if high charges form the test of the excellence +of an inn, there is good reason to designate this, at _Inderlambach_, as +such. We snatched a hasty meal, (for which we had nearly fifteen florins to +pay) being anxious to get the carriage and luggage aboard one of the larger +boats, used in transporting travellers, before the sun was getting too +low ... that we might see the wonders of the scenery of which we had heard +so much. It was a bright, lovely afternoon; and about half-past six we were +all, with bag and baggage, on board. Six men, with oars resembling spades +in shape, were to row us; and a seventh took the helm. The water was as +smooth as glass, and of a sea-green tint, which might have been occasioned +by the reflection of the dark and lofty wood and mountainous scenery, by +which the lake is surrounded. + +The rowers used their oars so gently, as hardly to make us sensible of +their sounds. The boat glided softly along; and it was evident, from the +varying forms of the scenery, that we were making considerable way. We had +a voyage of at least nine English miles to accomplish, ere we reached the +opposite extremity--called _Gmunden_; and where we were told that the inn +would afford us every accommodation which we might wish. On reaching the +first winding or turning of the lake, to the left, a most magnificent and +even sublime object--like a mountain of rock--presented itself to the +right. It rose perpendicularly--vast, craggy, and of a height, I should +suppose, little short of 2000 feet. Its gray and battered sides--now +lighted up by the varied tints of a setting sun--seemed to have been +ploughed by many a rushing torrent, and covered by many a winter's snow. +Meanwhile the lake was receiving, in the part nearest to us, a breadth of +deep green shadow, as the sun became lower and lower. The last faint scream +of the wild fowl gave indication that night was coming on; and the few +small fishermen's huts, with which the banks were slightly studded, began +to fade from the view. Yet the summit of the mountain of rock, which I have +just mentioned, was glowing with an almost golden hue. I cannot attempt a +more minute description of this enchanting scene. + +One thing struck me very forcibly. This enormous rocky elevation seemed to +baffle all our attempts to _near_ it--and yet it appeared as if we were +scarcely a quarter of a mile from it. This will give you some notion of its +size and height. At length, the scenery of the lake began to change--into a +more quiet and sober character.... We had now passed the rocky mountain, +and on looking upon its summit, we observed that the golden glow of +sunshine had subsided into a colour of pale pink, terminating in alternate +tints of purple and slate. Almost the whole landscape had faded from the +eye, when we reached the end of our voyage; having been more than two hours +upon the lake. On disembarking, we made directly for the inn--where we +found every thing even exceeding what we had been led to expect--and +affording a very striking and comfortable contrast to the quarters of the +preceding evening at St. Gilgen. Sofas, carpets, lustres, and two good +bed-rooms--a set of china which might have pleased a German baron--all +glittered before our eyes, and shewed us that, if we were not well +satisfied, the fault would be our own. The front windows of the hotel +commanded a direct and nearly uninterrupted length-view of the lake; and if +the full moon had risen ... but one cannot have every thing one wants--even +at the hotel of Gmunden. + +We ordered a good fire, and wax candles to be lighted; a chafing dish, +filled with live charcoal caused a little cloud of steam to be emitted from +a copper kettle--of which the exterior might have been _cleaned_ ... during +the _last_ century. But we travelled with our own tea; and enjoyed a +succession of cups which seemed to make us "young and lusty as eagles:" and +which verified all the pleasing things said in behalf of this philosophical +beverage by the incomparable Cowper. Mr. Lewis spent two hours in _penning +in_ his drawings; and I brushed up my journal---opened my map--and +catechised the landlord about the MONASTERY of CHREMSMINSTER, which it was +resolved to visit on the following (Sunday) morning. Excellent beds (not +"sloping in an angle of 45 degrees"--) procured us a comfortable night's +rest. In the morning, we surveyed the lake, the village, and its immediate +vicinity. We inspected two churches, and saw a group of women devoutly +occupied in prayer by the side of a large tombstone--in a cemetery at a +distance from any church. The tombstones in Germany are whimsical enough. +Some look like iron cross-bows, others like crosses; some nearly resemble a +gibbet; and others a star. They are usually very slender in their +structure, and of a height scarcely exceeding four or five feet. + +By eleven in the morning, the postboy's bugle sounded for our departure. +The carriage and horses were at the door: the postboy, arrayed in an +entirely new scarlet jacket, with a black velvet collar edged with silver +lace, the livery of Austria, was mounted upon a strong and lofty steed; and +the travellers being comfortably seated, the whip sounded, and off we went, +up hill, at a good round cantering pace. A large congregation, which was +quitting a church in the vicinity of the inn, gazed at us, as we passed, +with looks and gestures as if they had never seen two English travellers +before. + +The stage from Gmunden to Chremsminster is very long and tedious; but by no +means devoid of interest. We halted an hour to rest the horses, about +half-way on the route; which I should think was full eight English miles +from the place of starting. On leaving Gmunden, and gaining the height of +the neighbouring hills, we looked behind, or rather to the right, upon the +_back_ part of that chain of hills and rocks which encircle the lake over +which we had passed the preceding evening. The sky was charged with large +and heavy clouds; and a broad, deep, and as it were stormy, tint of dark +purple ... mantled every mountain which we saw--with the exception of our +old gigantic friend, of which the summit was buried in the clouds. At a +given distance, you form a tolerably good notion of the altitude of +mountains; and from this latter view of those in question, I should think +that the highest may be about 3000 feet above the level of the lake. It was +somewhere upon two o'clock when we caught the first glimpse of the spire +and lofty walls of the MONASTERY OF CHREMSMINSTER. This monastery is hid by +high ground,--till you get within a mile of the town of _Chrems_; so +called, from a river, of the same name, which washes almost the walls of +the monastery. + +I cannot dissemble the joy I felt on the first view of this striking and +venerable edifice. It is situated on a considerable eminence--and seems to +be built upon a foundation of rock. Its mosque-fashioned towers, the long +range of its windows, and height of its walls, cannot fail to arrest the +attention very forcibly. Just on the spot where we caught the first view of +it, the road was not only very precipitous, but was under repair; which +made it absolutely perilous. The skill of our postilion, however extricated +us from all danger; and on making the descent, I opened my portmanteau in +front of me--which was strapped to the back-seat of the carriage--pulled +out the green silk purse which I had purchased at Dieppe, within a few +hours of my landing in France--and introducing my hand into it, took from +thence some dozen or twenty napoleons--observing at the same time, to Mr. +Lewis, and pointing to the monastery--that "these pieces would probably be +devoted to the purchasing of a few book-treasures from the library of the +edifice in view." In five minutes we drove up to the principal, or rather +only inn, which the town seemed to afford. The first thing I did, was, to +bespeak an immediate dinner, and to send a messenger, with a note (written +in Latin) to the Vice Principal or Librarian of the monastery--"requesting +permission to inspect the library, being English travellers bound for +Vienna." No answer was returned ... even on the conclusion of our dinner; +when,--on calling a council, it was resolved that we should take the valet +and a guide with us, and immediately assail the gates of the Monastery. + +I marched up the steep path which leads to these gates, with the most +perfect confidence in the success of my visit. Vespers were just concluded; +and three or four hundred at least of the population of Chrems were pouring +forth from the church doors, down the path towards the town. On entering +the quadrangle in which the church is situated, we were surprised at its +extent, and the respectability of its architecture. We then made for the +church--along the cloisters--and found it nearly deserted. A few straggling +supplicants were however left behind--ardent in prayer, upon their knees: +but the florid style of the architecture of the interior of this church +immediately caught my attention and admiration. The sides are covered with +large oil paintings, which look like copies of better performances; while, +at each lower corner of these pictures, stands a large figure of a saint, +boldly sculptured, as if to support the painting. Throwing your eye along +this series of paintings and sculpture, on each side of the church, the +whole has a grand and imposing effect--while the _subjects_ of some of the +paintings, describing the tortures of the damned, or the occupations of the +good, cannot fail, in the mind of an enthusiastic devotee, to produce a +very powerful sensation. The altars here, as usual in Germany, and even at +Lauffen and Koppf--are profusely ornamented. + +We had hardly retreated from the church--lost in the variety of reflections +excited by the novelty of every surrounding object--when I perceived a +Benedictin, with his black cap upon his head, walking with a hurried step +towards us ... along the cloisters. As he approached, he pulled off his +cap, and saluted us very graciously: pouring forth a number of sentences, +in the Latin language, (for he could not speak a word of French) with a +fluency and rapidity of utterance, of which, I could have no conception; +and of which, necessarily, I could not comprehend one half. Assuming a more +leisurely method of address, he asked me, what kind of books I was more +particularly anxious to see: and on replying "those more especially which +were printed in the fifteenth century--the "_Incunabula_"--he answered, +"come with me; and, although the librarian be absent, I will do my utmost +to assist you." So saying, we followed him into his cell, a mere cabin of a +room: where I observed some respectably-looking vellum-clad folios, and +where his bed occupied the farther part. He then retired for the key: +returned in five seconds, and requested that we would follow him up stairs. +We mounted two flights of a noble staircase; the landing-place of the +_first_ of which communicated with a lofty and magnificent, arched +corridor:--running along the whole side of the quadrangle. The library is +situated at the very top of the building, and occupies (as I should +apprehend) one half of the side of the quadrangle. It is a remarkably +handsome and cheerful room, divided into three slightly indicated +compartments; and the colour, both of the wainscot and of the backs of the +books, is chiefly white. + +The first thing that struck me was, the almost unbounded and diversified +view from thence. I ran to the windows--but the afternoon had become black +and dismal, and the rain was descending fast on all sides; yet, in the haze +of distance, I thought I could discern the chain of huge mountains near the +lake of Gmunden. Their purple sides and craggy summits yet seemed to rise +above the clouds, which were resting upon the intermediate country, and +deluging it with rain. The Benedictin confirmed my suspicions as to the +identity of the country before us, and then bade me follow, him quickly. I +followed M. HARTENSCHNEIDER (for so the worthy Benedictin wrote his name) +to the further division, or compartment of the library; and turning to the +left, began an attack upon the _Fifteeners_--which were placed there, on +the two lowest shelves. My guide would not allow of my taking down the +books ... from sheer politeness. "They might prove burdensome"--as if _any +thing_, in the shape of a book, could be considered a BURDEN! + +The first volume I opened, was one of the most beautiful copies +imaginable--utterly beyond all competition, for purity and primitiveness of +condition--of Schoiffher's edition of _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, with +the Commentary of Trivetus, of the date of 1473. That work is +everywhere--in all forms, types, and conditions--upon the continent. The +worthy M. Hartenschneider seemed to be marvellously pleased with the +delight I expressed on the view of this magnificent volume. He then placed +before me the _Catholicon_ of 1469, by G. Zainer: a cropt, but clean and +desirable copy. Upon my telling him that I had not long ago seen a copy of +it UPON VELLUM, in the Public Library at Munich, he seemed to be mute and +pensive... and to sigh somewhat inwardly. Pausing awhile, he resumed, by +telling me that the ONLY treasure they had possessed, in the shape of a +VELLUM BOOK, was a copy of the same work of St. Austin, printed chiefly by +_John de Spira_ (but finished by his brother _Vindelin_) of the date of +1470; but with which, and many other book-curiosities, the French general +_Lecourbe_ chose to march away; in the year 1800. That cruel act of +spoliation was commemorated, or revenged, by an angry Latin distich. + +I was also much gratified by a beautifully clean copy of the _Durandi +Rationale_ by I. Zeiner, of the date of 1474: as well as with the same +printer's _Aurea Biblia_, of the same date, which is indeed almost every +where upon the Continent. But nothing came perfectly up to the copy of +Schoiffher's edition of the _De Civ. Dei._ M. Hartenschneider added, that +the Imperial Library at Vienna had possessed itself of their chief rarities +in early typography: but he seemed to exult exceedingly on mentioning the +beautiful and perfect state of their DELPHIN CLASSICS. + +"Do you by chance possess the _Statius_?--" observed I. "Come and see--" +replied my guide: and forthwith he took me into a recess, or closet, where +my eye was greeted with one of the most goodly book-sights imaginable. +There they all stood--those Delphin Classics--in fair array and comeliest +condition. I took down the Statius, and on returning it, exclaimed +"Exemplar pulcherrimum et optime conservatum." "Pretiosissimumque," +rejoined my cicerone. "And the _Prudentius_--good M. Hartenschneider--do +you possess it?" "Etiam"--replied he. "And the _Catullus_, _Tibullus_, and +_Propertius_?" They were there also: but one of the volumes, containing the +Tibullus, was with a brother monk. That monk (thought I to myself) must +have something of a tender heart. "But tell me, worthy and learned Sir, +(continued I) why so particular about the _Statius_? Here are twenty golden +pieces:" (they were the napoleons, taken from the forementioned silken +purse[91])--"will these procure the copy in question?" "It is in vain you +offer any thing: (replied M. Hartenschneider) we have refused this very +copy even to Princes and Dukes." "Listen then to me:" resumed I: "It seems +you want that great work, such an ornament to our own country, and so +useful to every other--the _Monasticon Anglicanum of Sir William Dugdale_. +Will you allow me to propose a fair good copy of that admirable +performance, in exchange for your Statius?" "I can promise nothing--replied +M. Hartenschneider--as that matter rests entirely with the superiors of the +monastery; but what you say appears to be very reasonable; and, for myself, +I should not hesitate one moment, in agreeing to the proposed exchange." My +guide then gave me to understand that he was _Professor of History_; and +that there were not fewer than one hundred monks upon the establishment. + +I was next intreated, together with my travelling friend and our valet, to +stop and pass the night there. We were told that it was getting late and +dark; and that there was only a cross road between Chrems and _Ens_, in the +route to _Lintz_--to which latter place we were going. "You cannot reach +Lintz (said our hospitable attendant) before midnight; but rain and +darkness are not for men with nice sensibilities to encounter. You and your +friend, and eke your servant, shall not lack a hospitable entertainment. +Command therefore your travelling equipage to be brought hither. You see +(added he smiling) we have room enough for all your train. I beseech you to +tarry with us." This is almost a literal version of what M. Hartenschneider +said--and he said it fluently, and even in an impassioned manner. I thanked +him again and again; but declared it to be impossible to comply with his +kind wishes. "The hospitality of your order (observed I to the Professor) +is equal to its learning." M. Hartenschneider bowed: and then taking me by +the arm, exclaimed, "well, since you cannot be prevailed upon to stay, you +must make the most of your time. Come and see one or two of our more +ancient MSS." + +He then placed before me an _Evangelistarium_ of the eighth century, which +he said had belonged to Charlemagne, the founder of the monastery.[92] It +was one of the most perfect pieces of calligraphy which I had ever seen; +perhaps superior to that in the Public Library at Landshut. But this MS. is +yet more precious, as containing, what is considered to be, a compact +between Charlemagne and the first Abbot of the Monastery, executed by both +parties. I looked at it with a curious and sceptical eye, and had scarcely +the courage to _doubt_ its authenticity. The art which it exhibits, in the +illuminations of the figures of the Evangelists, is sufficiently +wretched--compared with the specimens of the same period in the celebrated +MS. (also once belonging to Charlemagne) in the private library of the King +at Paris.[93] I next saw a MS. of the _Sonnets of Petrarch_, in a small +folio, or super royal octavo size, supposed to have been executed in the +fifteenth century, about seventy years after the death of the poet. It is +beautifully written in a neat roman letter, and evidently the performance +of an Italian scribe; but it may as likely be a copy, made in the early +part of the fifteenth century, of a MS. of the previous century. However, +it is doubtless a precious MS. The ornaments are sparingly introduced, and +feebly executed. + +On quitting these highly interesting treasures, M. H. and myself walked up +and down the library for a few minutes, (the rain descending in torrents +the whole time) and discoursed upon the great men of my own country. He +mentioned his acquaintance with the works of Bacon, Locke, Swift, and +Newton--and pronounced the name of the last ... with an effervescence of +feeling and solemnity of utterance amounting to a sort of adoration. "Next +to Newton," said he, "is your Bacon: nor is the interval between them +_very_ great: but, in my estimation, Newton is more an angel than a mortal. +He seemed to have been always communing with the Deity." "All this is +excellent, Sir,--replied I: but you say not one word about our divine +_Shakspeare_." "Follow me--rejoined he--and you shall see that I am not +ignorant of that wonderful genius--and that I do not talk without book." +Whereupon M.H. walked, or rather ran, rapidly to the other end of the +library, and put into my hands _Baskerville's Edition_ of that poet,[94] of +the date of 1768--which I frankly told him I had never before seen. This +amused him a good deal; but he added, that the greater part of Shakspeare +was incomprehensible to him, although he thoroughly understood _Swift_, and +read him frequently. + +It was now high time to break off the conversation, interesting as it might +be, and to think of our departure: for the afternoon was fast wearing away, +and a starless, if not a tempestuous, night threatened to succeed. Charles +Rohfritsch was despatched to the inn below--to order the horses, settle the +reckoning, and to bring the carriage as near to the monastery as possible. +Meanwhile Mr. L. and myself descended with M. Hartenschneider to his own +room--where I saw, for the first time, the long-sought after work of the +_Annales Hirsaugienses_ of _Trithemius_, _printed in the Monastery of St. +Gall_ in 1690, 2 vols., folio, lying upon the Professor's table. M.H. told +me that the copy belonged to the library we had just quitted. I had indeed +written to Kransfelder, a bookseller at Augsbourg, just before leaving +Munich, for _two_ copies of that rare and estimable work--which were +inserted in his sale catalogue; and I hope to be lucky enough to secure +both--for scarcely ten shillings of our money.[95] It now only remained to +bid farewell to the most kind, active, and well-informed M. +Hartenschneider--and to quit (probably for ever) the MONASTERY OF +CHREMSMINSTER. Like the worthy Professor Veesenmeyer at Ulm, he "committed +me to God's especial good providence--" and insisted upon accompanying me, +uncovered, to the very outer gates of the monastery: promising, all the +way, that, on receiving my proposals in writing, respecting the Statius, he +would promote that object with all the influence he might possess.[96] Just +as he had reached the further limits of the quadrangle, he met the +librarian himself--and introduced me to him: but there was now only time to +say "Vale!" We shook hands--for the first ... and in all probability ... +the last time. + +Every thing was in readiness--on reaching the bottom of the hill. A pair of +small, and apparently young and mettlesome horses, were put to the +carriage: the postilion was mounted; and nothing remained but to take our +seats, and bid adieu to _Chrems_ and its Monastery. The horses evinced the +fleetness of rein deer at starting; and on enquiring about their age and +habits, I learnt that they were scarcely _three_ years old--had been just +taken from the field--and had been but _once_ before in harness. This +intelligence rather alarmed us. However, we continued to push vigorously +forward, along a very hilly road, in which no difference whatever was made +between ascents and descents. It was a good long sixteen mile stage; and +darkness and a drizzling rain overtook us ere we had got over half of it. +There were no lights to the carriage, and the road was the most devious I +had ever travelled. The horses continued to fly like the wind, and the +charioteer began to express his fatigue in holding them in. At length we +saw the light of _Ens_, to the right--the first post town on the high road +from Lintz to Vienna. This led us to expect to reach the main road quickly. +We passed over a long wooden bridge--under which the river Ens, here broad +and rapid, runs to empty itself into the Danube: and... nearer the hour of +eleven than ten, we drove to the principal inn in the Place. + +It was fair time: and the town of LINTZ was glittering with lights, and +animated by an unusual stir of population. The centre of the _Place_ or +Square, where the inn is situated, was entirely filled by booths; and it +was with difficulty we could gain admission within the inn, or secure rooms +when admitted. However, we had no reason to complain, for the chambermaid +(an exceedingly mirthful and active old woman) assured us that Lord and +Lady Castlereagh on their route to Vienna in 1815, had occupied the very +beds which she had destined for us. These beds were upon the second floor, +in a good large room, warmed by a central stove of earthenware tiles--the +usual fireplace in Germany. The first floor of the inn was wholly occupied +by travellers, merchants, dealers, and adventurers of every +description--the noise of whose vociferations, and the tramp of whose +movements, were audible even till long after midnight. + +I am tarrying in a very large, very populous, and excellently well built +town. LINTZ, or LINZ, has a population of at least 20,000 souls: and +boasts, with justice, not only of its beautiful public buildings, but of +its manufactories of stuffs, silks, and printed calicoes. The _Place_, +before this inn, affords evidence of the splendour of these wares; and the +interiors of several booths are in a perfect blaze--from the highly +ornamented gold gauze caps worn by the upper classes of the middling +people, even more brilliant than what was observed at Augsbourg. I was +asked equal to four guineas of our money for one of these caps, in my +reconnoissance before breakfast this morning--nor, as I afterwards learnt, +was the demand exorbitant. + +I must bid you farewell in haste. I start for Vienna within twenty minutes +from this time, and it is now nearly-mid-day. But ere I reach the capital +of Austria, I hope to pay a string of MONASTIC VISITS:--beginning with that +of _St. Florian_, about a dozen miles from this place, just before you +reach Ens, the next post town; so that, ere I again address you (which +cannot be until I reach Vienna,) I shall have made rather a rambling and +romantic tour. "Omne ignotum pro magnifico"--yet, if I mistake not; (from +all that I can collect here) _experience_ will confirm what hope and +ignorance suggest. + + +[90] Vol. ii. p. 352-3. + +[91] See p. 217 ante. + +[92] It should seem, from the pages of PEZ and NIDANUS, that Charlemagne + was either the founder, or the patron, or endower, of almost every + monastery in Germany. Stengelius, however, gives a a very romantic + origin to the foundation of Chremsminster. "The eldest son of Tassilo, + a Duke or Elector of Bavaria, went out a hunting in the winter; when, + having been separated from his companions, in a large wood, he met a + wild boar of an enormous size, near a fountain and pool of water. + Notwithstanding the fearful odds between them, Tassilo gallantly + received the animal upon the point of his hunting spear, and + dispatched him with a tremendous wound: not however without a fatal + result to himself. Rage, agony, and over exertion... proved fatal to + the conqueror: and when, excited by the barking of the dogs, his + father and the troop of huntsmen came up to see what it might be, they + witnessed the spectacle of the boar and the young Tassilo lying DEAD + by the side of each other. The father built the MONASTERY of + CHREMSMINSTER upon the fatal spot--to the memory of his beloved but + unfortunate son. He endowed it with large possessions, and his + endowments were confirmed by Pope Adrian and the Emperor + Charlemagne--in the year 777. The history of the monastery is lost in + darkness, till the year 1046, when Engelbert, Bishop of Passau, + consecrated it anew; and in 1165, Diepold, another Bishop of Passau, + added greatly to its possessions; but he was, in other respects, as + well as Manegold in 1206, a very violent and mischievous character. + Bishop Ulric, in 1216, was a great benefactor to it; but I do not + perceive when the present building was erected: although it is + possible there may be portions of it as old as the thirteenth century. + See _Pez: Script. Rer. Austriac._, vol. i. col. 1305, &c.: _vol. ii._ + col. 67, &c. At the time of publishing the _Monasteriologia of + Stengelius_, 1638, (where there is a bird's-eye view of the monastery, + as it now generally appears) Wolffradt (or Wolfardt) was the + Abbot--who, in the author's opinion, "had no superior among his + predecessors." I go a great way in thinking with Stengelius; for this + worthy Abbot built the Monks a "good supper-room, two dormitories, a + sort of hospital for the sick, and a LIBRARY, with an abundant stock + of new books. Also a sacristy, furnished with most costly robes, &c. + _Monasteriologia_; sign. A. It was doubtless the BIBLIOTHECA + WOLFRADTIANA in which I tarried--as above described--with equal + pleasure and profit. + +[93] See vol. ii. p. 199. + +[94] This I presume to be the "spurious" Birmingham edition, which is + noticed by Steevens in the _Edit. Shakspeare_, 1813. 8vo. vol. + ii. p. 151. + +[95] They were both secured. One copy is now in the ALTHORP LIBRARY, and + the other in that of Mr. Heber. + +[96] On the very night of my arrival at Lintz, late as it was, I wrote a + letter to the Abbot, or head of the monastery, addressed thus--as the + Professor had written it down: "_Ad Reverendissimum Dominum Anselmum + Mayerhoffer inclyti Monasterii Cremifanensis Abbatem vigilantissimum + Cremifanum_." This was enclosed in a letter to the Professor + himself with the following direction: "_Ad Rev. Dm. Udalricum + Hartenschneider Professum Monasterij Cremifanensis et Historiae ibidem + Professorem publicum. Cremifanum_:" the Professor having put into + my hands the following written memorandum: "Pro commutandis--quos + designasti in Bibliotheca nostra, libris--primo Abbatem adire, aut + litteris saltem interrogare necesse est: quas, si tibi placuerit, ad + me dirigere poteris." + + [Autograph] + + This he wrote with extreme rapidity. In my letter, I repeated the + offer about the Monasticon; with the addition of about a dozen + napoleons for the early printed books above mentioned; requesting to + have an answer, poste restante, at Vienna. No answer has since reached + me. The Abbot should seem to have preferred Statius to Dugdale. [But + his Statius NOW has declined wofully in pecuniary worth: while the + Dugdale, in its newly edited form, has risen threefold.] + + + + +LETTER IX. + + +THE MONASTERIES OF ST. FLORIAN, MOeLK, AND GOeTTWIC. + + +_Vienna; Hotel of the Emperor of +Hungary, Aug. 31, 1818._ + +MY DEAR FRIEND; + +Give me your heartiest congratulations; for I have reached, and am well +lodged at, the extreme limit of my "BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, ANTIQUARIAN, AND +PICTURESQUE TOUR." Behold me, therefore, at VIENNA, the capital of Austria: +once the abode of mighty monarchs and renowned chieftains: and the scene +probably of more political vicissitudes than any other capital in Europe. +The ferocious Turk, the subtle Italian, and the impetuous Frenchman, have +each claimed Vienna as their place of residence by right of conquest; and +its ramparts have been probably battered by more bullets and balls than +were ever discharged at any other fortified metropolis. + +At present, however, my theme must be entirely monastic. Prepare, +therefore, to receive an account of some MONASTIC VISITS, which have +perfectly won my heart over to the Institutions of ST. BENEDICT and ST. +AUGUSTIN. Indeed I seem to have been mingling with a new set of human +beings, and a new order of things; though there was much that put me in +mind of the general character of my ever-cherished University of Oxford. +Not that there is _any one_ college, whether at Oxford or at Cambridge, +which in point of architectural magnificence, can vie with some of those +which I am about to describe. My last letter, as you may remember, left us +upon the point of starting from Lintz, for the monastery of ST. FLORIAN. +That monastery is situated within about three miles of _Ens_, the next post +town from Lintz. The road thither was lined, on each side, with the plum +and the pear tree--in their alternate tints of saffron and purple--but far +from being ripe. The sight, altogether, was as pleasing as it was novel: +and especially were my spirits gladdened, on thinking of the fortunate +escape from the perils that had seemed to have awaited us in our route from +Chremsminster the preceding evening. + +On turning out of the main road, about a dozen miles from Lintz, we began +to be sensible of a gentle ascent,--along a pleasant, undulating road, +skirted by meadows, copses, and corn-fields. In ten minutes, the valet +shouted out--"_Voila le Monastere de St. Florian!_" It was situated upon an +eminence, of scarcely half the height of Chremsminster; but, from the +abruptness of the ascent, as you enter the village, and make towards the +monastery, it appears, on an immediate approach, to be of a very +considerable elevation. It looked nobly, as we neared it. The walls were +massive, and seemed to be embedded in a foundation of granite. Some +pleasing little cultivated spots, like private gardens, were between the +outer walls and the main body of the building. It rained heavily as we +rolled under the archway; when an old man and an old woman demanded, rather +with astonishment than severity, what was the object of our visit? Having +received a satisfactory answer, the gates were opened, and we stopped +between two magnificent flights of steps, leading on each side to the +cloisters. Several young monks, excited by the noise of the carriage, came +trooping towards the top of the stairs, looking down upon us, and +retreating, with the nimbleness and apparent timidity of deer. Their white +streamers, or long lappets, suspended from the back of the black gown, (the +designation of the _Augustine_ order) had a very singular appearance. + +Having received a letter of recommendation to the librarian, M. KLEIN, I +delivered it to the porter--and in a few seconds observed two short monks +uncovered, advancing towards me. M. Klein spoke French--after a certain +fashion--which however made us understand one another well enough; and on +walking along the cloisters, he took me by the arm to conduct me to the +Abbot. "But you have doubtless _dined_?" observed he,--turning sharply upon +me. It was only between one and two o'clock; and therefore I thought I +might be pardoned, even by the severest of their own order, for answering +in the _negative_. My guide then whispered to his attendant (who quickly +disappeared) and carried me directly to the Abbot. Such a visit was worth +paying. I entered with great solemnity; squeezing my travelling cap into a +variety of forms, as I made obeisance,--on observing a venerable man, +nearer fourscore than seventy, sitting, with a black cap quite at the back +part of his head, and surrounded by half a dozen young monks, who were +standing and waiting upon him with coffee (after dinner) which was placed +upon the table before him. He was the Principal. The old gentleman's +countenance was wan, and rather severely indented, but lighted up by a dark +and intelligent pair of eyes. His shoulders were shrouded in a large gray +fur tippet; and, on receiving me, he demonstrated every mark of +attention--by giving his unfinished cup of coffee to one of his attendants, +and, pulling off his cap, endeavouring to rise. I advanced and begged there +might be no further movement. As he spoke French, we quickly understood +each other. He bade me see every thing that was worth seeing; and, on his +renewing the _dinner_ question, and receiving an answer in the negative, he +commanded that a meal of some sort should be forthwith got ready. In this, +however, he had been anticipated by the librarian. + +I made my retreating bow, and followed my guide who, by this time, had +assumed quite a pleasant air of familiarity with me. I accompanied him to +the Library. It is divided into three rooms; of which the largest, at the +further end, is the most characteristic. The central room is small, and +devoted to MSS. none as I learnt, either very old, very curious, or very +valuable. The view from this suite of apartments must, on a fine day, be +lovely. Bad as was the weather, when I looked from the windows, I observed, +to the left, some gently sloping and sweetly wooded pleasure grounds, with +the town of _Ens_, in the centre, at the distance of about three miles. To +the right, were more undulating hills, with rich meadows in the foreground; +while, immediately below, was the ornamented garden of the monastery. + +The prospect _within_ doors was not quite of so gratifying a description. +It seemed to be the mere shadow of a library. Of old books, indeed, I saw +nothing worth noticing--except a white and crackling, but cropt, copy of +_Ratdolt's Appian_ of 1478, (always a beautiful book) and a _Latin Version +of Josephus_, printed at Venice in 1480 by _Maufer_, a citizen of Rouen. +This latter was really a very fine book. There was also _Ratdolt's Euclid_ +of 1485--which indeed is every where abroad--but which generally has +variations in the marginal diagrams. Of _Bibles_, either Latin or German, I +saw nothing more ancient than the edition by Sorg, in the _German_ language +of the date of 1477. I paused an instant over the _Tyturell_ of 1477, (the +only really scarce book in the collection) and threw a gilded bait before +the librarian, respecting the acquisition of it;--but M. Klein quite +_screamed_ aloud at the proposition--protesting that "not a single leaf +from a single book should be parted with!" "You are quite right," added I. +"My guide eyed me as if he could have said, "How much at variance are your +thoughts and words!" And yet I spake very sincerely. Mr. Klein then placed +a clean, but cropt, copy of the _first Aldine Pindar_ before me; adding, +that he understood it to be rare. "It is most rare," rejoined I:--but it is +yet "rarer than most rare" when found UPON VELLUM!--as it is to be seen in +Lord Spencer's library." He seemed absolutely astonished at this piece of +intelligence--and talked about its pecuniary value. "No money can purchase +it. It is beyond all price"--rejoined I. Whereupon my guide was struck with +still deeper astonishment. + +There were all the _Polyglott Bibles_, with the exception of the +_Complutensian_; which appears to be uncommon in the principal libraries +upon the continent. _Walton's Polyglott_ was the Royal copy; which led to a +slight discussion respecting the Royal and Republican copies. M. Klein +received most implicitly all my bibliographical doctrine upon the subject, +and expressed a great desire to read Dr. Adam Clarke's Essay upon the same. +When I spoke of the small number of copies upon LARGE PAPER, he appeared to +marvel more than ever--and declared "how happy the sight of such a copy +would make him, from his great respect for the Editor!" There was a poor +sprinkle of _English books_; among which however, I noticed Shakspeare, +Milton, Swift, and Thomson; I had declared myself sufficiently satisfied +with the inspection of the library, when dinner was announced; but could +not reconcile it to myself to depart, without asking "whether they had the +_Tewrdanckh_?" "Yes, and UPON VELLUM, too!" was the Librarian's reply. It +was a good sound copy. + +The dinner was simple and nourishing. The wine was what they call the white +wine of Austria: rather thin and acid. It still continued to rain. Our +friends told us that, from the windows of the room in which we were eating, +they could, in fair weather; discern the snow-capt mountains of the +Tyrol:--that, from one side of their monastery they could look upon green +fields, pleasure gardens, and hanging woods, and from the other, upon +magnificent ranges of hills terminated by mountains covered with snow. They +seemed to be proud of their situation, as they had good reason to be. I +found them exceedingly chatty, pleasant, and even facetious. I broached the +subject of politics--but in a very guarded and general manner. The lively +Librarian, however, thought proper to observe--"that the English were doing +in _India_ what Bonaparte had been doing in _Europe_." I told him that such +a doctrine was a more frightful heresy than any which had ever crept into +his own church: at which he laughed heartily, and begged we would not spare +either the _bouille_ or the wine. + +We were scarcely twenty minutes at our meal, being desirous of seeing the +CHURCH, the PICTURE GALLERY, and the SALOON--belonging to the monastery. It +was not much after three o'clock, and yet it was unusually dark for the +hour of the day. However, we followed our guides along a magnificent +corridor--desirous of seeing the pictures first. If the number of +paintings, and of apartments alone, constitute a good collection of +pictures, this of Saint Florian is doubtless a very fair specimen of a +picture gallery. There are three rooms and a corridor (or entrance passage) +filled with paintings, of which three fourths at least are palpable copies. +The _subjects_ of some of the paintings were not exactly accordant with +monastic gravity; among these I regret that I am compelled to include a +copy of a Magdalen from Rubens--and a Satyr and Sleeping Nymph, apparently +by Lucas Giordano. Nevertheless the collection is worth a second and a +third examination; which, if time and circumstances had allowed, we should +in all probability have given it. A series of subjects, fifteen in number, +illustrative of the LIFE OF ST. FLORIAN,[97] (the great fire-extinguishing +Saint,--to whom the Monastery is dedicated, and who was born at _Ens_, in +the neighbourhood) cuts a most distinguished figure in this collection. +There is a good, and I think genuine, head of an old woman by Rubens, which +I seemed to stumble upon as if by accident, and which was viewed by my +guides with a sort of apathy. Mr. Lewis was half lost in extacies before a +pretty little sketch by Paolo Veronese; when, on my observing to him that +the time was running away fast, M. Klein spoke aloud in the English +language--"_Mister Louise_, (repeating my words) _teime fleis_." He laughed +heartily upon uttering it, and seemed to enjoy the joke full as much as my +companion, to whom the words were addressed. There were several specimens +of the old German masters, but I suspect most of them were copies. + +The day seemed to be growing darker and darker, although it was only +somewhere between three and four o'clock. We descended quickly to see the +church, where I found Charles (the valet) and several other spectators. We +passed through a small sacristy or vestry, in the way to it. This room was +fitted up with several small confessionals, of the prettiest forms and +workmanship imaginable: having, in front, two twisted and slender columns, +of an ebony tint: the whole--exceedingly inviting to confession. Here the +Dean met us; a grave, sober, sensible man, with whom I conversed in Latin. +We entered the church, on the tip-toe of expectation: nor were we +disappointed. It is at once spacious and magnificent; but a little too +profuse in architectural ornament. It consists of a nave and transepts, +surmounted by a dome, with a choir of very limited dimensions. The choir is +adorned, on each side, just above the several stalls, by an exceedingly +rich architrave, running the whole length, in a mixed roman and gothic +style. The altar, as usual, is a falling off. The transepts are too short, +and the dome is too small. The nave is a sort of elongated parallelogram. +It is adorned on each side by pillars of the Corinthian order, and +terminated by an _Organ_ ... of the most gorgeous and imposing appearance. +The pipes have completely the appearance of polished silver, and the wood +work is painted white, richly relieved by gold. For size and splendor +united, I had never seen any thing like it. The whole was perfectly +magical. + +On entering, the Dean, M. Klein, and three or four more Benedictins, made +slight prostrations on one knee, before the altar; and, just as they rose, +to our astonishment and admiration, the organ burst forth with a power of +intonation (every stop being opened) such as I had never heard exceeded. As +there were only a few present, the sounds were necessarily increased, by +being reverberated from every part of the building: and for a moment it +seemed as if the very dome would have been unroofed, and the sides burst +asunder. We looked up; then at each other: lost in surprise, delight, and +admiration. We could not hear a word that was spoken; when, in some few +succeeding seconds, the diapason stop only was opened ... and how sweet and +touching was the melody which it imparted! "Oh Dieu! (exclaimed our valet) +que cela est ravissant, et meme penetrant." This was true enough. A solemn +stave or two of a hymn (during which a few other pipes were opened) was +then performed by the organist ... and the effect was, as if these notes +had been chanted by an invisible choir of angels. The darkness of the +heavens added much to the solemnity of the whole. Silence ensuing, we were +asked how we liked the church, the organ, and the organist? Of course +there could be but one answer to make. The pulpit--situated at an angle +where the choir and transept meet, and opposite to the place where we +entered--was constructed of the black marble of Austria, ornamented with +gold: the whole in sober good taste, and admirably appropriate. + +We left this beautiful interior, to snatch a hasty view of the dormitories +and saloon, and to pay our farewell respects to the Principal. The +architect of this church was a Florentine, and it was built something more +than a century ago. It is doubtless in too florid a style. + +Instead of calling the bed-chambers by the homely name of "dormitories," +they should be designated (some at least), as state bed rooms. At each +corner of several of the beds was a carved figure, in gilt--serving as a +leg. The beds are generally capacious, without canopies; but their +covertures--in crimson, blue, or yellow silk--interspersed with spots of +gold or silver--gave indication, in their faded state, of their original +costliness and splendor. The rooms are generally large: but I hurried +through them, as every thing--from the gloomy state of the afternoon, and +more especially from the absence of almost every piece of furniture--had a +sombre and melancholy air. Nothing is more impressive than the traces of +departed grandeur. They had once (as I learnt) carousals and rejoicings in +this monastery;--and the banquet below made sweet and sound the slumbers +above. But matters have recently taken a different and less auspicious +turn. The building stands, and will long stand--unless assailed by the +musquet and cannon--a proud monument of wealth and of art: while the +revenues for its support ... are wasting every year! But I hope my +intelligence is incorrect. + +The highest gratification was yet in store for me: in respect to an +architectural treat. In our way to the Saloon, I noticed, over the door of +a passage, a small whole length of a man, in a formal peruke and dress, +walking with a cane in his hand. A noble building or two appeared in the +background. "Who might this be?" "That, Sir, (replied the Dean) is the +portrait of the architect of THIS MONASTERY and of MOeLK. He was born, and +lived, in an obscure village in the neighbourhood; and rose to unrivalled +eminence from the pure strength of native genius and prudent conduct." I +looked at the portrait with increased admiration. "Might I have a copy of +it--for the purpose of getting it engraved?" "There can surely be no +objection,"--replied the Dean. But alas, my friend, I fear it will never be +my lot to possess this portrait--in _any_ form or condition. + +If my admiration of this architect increased as I continued to gaze upon +his portrait, to what a pitch was it raised on entering the _Saloon_! I +believe that I may safely say I never before witnessed such a banquetting +room. It could not be less than sixty feet long, by forty feet wide and +forty high;--and almost entirely composed of Salzburg marble,[98] which is +of a deep red tint, but mellow and beautiful. The columns, in exceedingly +bold alto-relievo, spring from a dado about the height of a man's chest, +and which is surmounted by a bold and beautiful architrave. These columns, +of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, judiciously intermixed, rise to a fine +bold height: the whole being terminated by a vaulted ceiling of a beautiful +and light construction, and elaborately and richly ornamented. I never +witnessed a finer proportioned or a more appropriately ornamented room. It +is, of its kind, as perfect as the Town Hall at Augsbourg;[99] and suitable +for an imperial coronation. + +To a question respecting the antiquity of the monastery,[100] J M. Klein +replied, that their _crypt_ was considered to be of the eleventh century. I +had not a moment's leisure to examine it, but have some doubts of the +accuracy of such a date. The Dean, M. Klein, and several monks followed us +down stairs, where the carriage was drawn up to receive us--and helping us +into it, they wished us a hearty farewell. Assuredly I am not likely to +forget THE MONASTERY OF ST. FLORIAN. + +We were not long in reaching _Ens_, the first post town on the high road +from Lintz to Vienna. On approaching it, our valet bade us notice the +various signs of _reparation_ of which the outer walls and the fronts of +many houses gave evidence. Nearly half of the town, in short, (as he +informed us) had been destroyed by fire in Bonaparte's advance upon Vienna. +The cannon balls had done much, but the flames had done more. We slept at +the next post town, _Strengberg_, but could not help continuing to express +our surprise and admiration of the fruit trees (the pear and plum) which +lined each side of the road. We had determined upon dining at Moelk the next +day. The early morning was somewhat inauspicious; but as the day advanced, +it grew bright and cheerful. Some delightful glimpses of the Danube, to the +left, from the more elevated parts of the road, accompanied us the whole +way; till we caught the first view, beneath a bright blue sky, of the +towering church and MONASTERY OF MOeLK.[101] Conceive what you please, and +yet you shall not conceive the situation of this monastery. Less elevated +above the road than Chremsminster, but of a more commanding style of +architecture, and of considerably greater extent, it strikes you--as the +Danube winds round and washes its rocky base--as one of the noblest +edifices in the world. The wooded heights of the opposite side of the +Danube crown the view of this magnificent edifice, in a manner hardly to be +surpassed. There is also a beautiful play of architectural lines and +ornament in the front of the building, indicative of a pure Italian taste, +and giving to the edifice, if not the air of towering grandeur, at least of +dignified splendour. I send you a small bird's-eye view of it--necessarily +furnishing a very inadequate representation--for which I am indebted to +Professor Pallas, the Sub-Principal. + +[Illustration] + +As usual, I ordered a late dinner, intending to pay my respects to the +Principal, and obtain permission to inspect the library. My late monastic +visits had inspired me with confidence; and I marched up the steep sides of +the hill, upon which the monastery is built, quite assured of the success +of the visit I was about to pay. You must now accompany the bibliographer +to the monastery. In five minutes from entering the outer gate of the first +quadrangle--looking towards Vienna, and which is the more ancient part of +the building--I was in conversation with the Vice Principal and Librarian, +each of us speaking Latin. I delivered the letter which I had received at +Salzburg, and proceeded to the library. In proceeding with the Librarian +along the first corridor, I passed a portly figure, with an expressive +countenance, dressed precisely like the Duke of Norfolk,[102] in black +waistcoat, breeches, and stockings, with a gray coat. He might seem to be a +sort of small paper copy of that well-known personage, for he resembled him +in countenance as well as in dress. On meeting, he saluted me graciously: +and he had no sooner passed, than my guide whispered in my ear, "THAT is +the famous bibliographer, the ABBE STRATTMAN, late principal librarian to +the Emperor." I was struck at this intelligence; and wished to run back +after the Abbe,--but, in a minute, found myself within the library. I first +went into a long, narrow, room--devoted, the greater part, to MSS.:--and at +the hither end of which (that is, the end where I entered) were two +figures--as large as, and painted after, the life. They were cut out in +wood, or thick pasteboard; and were stuck in the centre of the space +between the walls. One was an old gentleman, with a pair of bands, and a +lady, his wife, opposite to him. Each was sitting upon a chair. A dog (if I +remember rightly) was between them. The effect was at first rather +_startling_; for these good folks, although they had been sitting for the +best part of a century, looked like life, and as if they were going to rise +up, and interrogate you for impertinently intruding upon their privacy. On +nearing them, I found that the old gentleman had been a great pedagogue, +and a great benefactor to the library: in short, the very MSS. by which we +were surrounded were _solid_ proofs of his liberality. I was urgent and +particular about the _contents_ of these MSS.; but my guide (otherwise a +communicative and well-informed man) answered my questions in a manner so +general, as to lead me to conclude that they had never been sufficiently +examined. There might be at least four thousand volumes in this long and +narrow room. + +From thence we proceeded, across a passage, to a small room--filled with +common useful books, for the young men of which the monastic society is now +composed; and who I learnt were about one hundred and twenty in number. +There were, however, at one end of this room, some coins and medals. I was +curious about ascertaining whether they had any _Greek gold coins_, but was +answered that they had none. This room is divided into two, by a partition +something like the modern fashion of dividing our drawing rooms. The whole +is profusely ornamented with paintings executed upon the walls; rather +elegantly than otherwise. The view from this library is really +enchanting--and put every thing seen, from a similar situation at Landshut, +and almost even at Chremsminster, out of my recollection. You look down +upon the Danube, catching a fine sweep of the river, as it widens in its +course towards Vienna. A man might sit, read, and gaze--in such a +situation--till he fancied he had scarcely one earthly want! I now +descended a small stair-case, which brought me directly into the large +library--forming the right wing of the building, looking up the Danube +towards Lintz. I had scarcely uttered three notes of admiration, when the +ABBE STRATTMAN entered; and to my surprise and satisfaction, addressed me +by name. We immediately commenced an ardent unintermitting conversation in +the French language, which the Abbe speaks fluently and correctly. We +darted at once into the lore of bibliography of the fifteenth century; when +the Abbe descanted largely upon the wonders I should see at +Vienna:--especially the Sweynheyms and Pannartz' UPON VELLUM! "Here +(continued he) there is absolutely nothing worthy of your inspection. We +have here no edit. prin. of _Horace_, or _Virgil_, or _Terence_, or +_Lucretius_: a copy of the _Decretals of Pope Boniface_, of the date of +1465, is our earliest and only VELLUM treasure of the XVth century. But you +will doubtless take the _Monastery of Goettwic_ in your way?" I replied that +I was wholly ignorant of the existence of such a monastery. "Then see +it--(said, he) and see it carefully; for the library contains _Incunabula_ +of the most curious and scarce kind. Besides, its situation is the noblest +in Austria." You will give me credit for not waiting for a _second_ +importunity to see such a place, before I answered--"I will most assuredly +visit the monastery of Goettwic." + +I now took a leisurely survey of the library; which is, beyond all doubt, +the finest room of its kind which I have seen upon the Continent:--not for +its size, but for its style of architecture, and the materials of which it +is composed. I was told that it was "the Imperial Library in +miniature:"--but with this difference, let me here add, in favour of +Moelk--that it looks over a magnificently-wooded country, with the Danube +rolling its rapid course at its base. The wainscot and shelves are walnut +tree, of different shades, inlaid, or dovetailed, surmounted by gilt +ornaments. The pilasters have Corinthian capitals of gilt; and the bolder +or projecting parts of a gallery, which surrounds the room, are covered +with the same metal. Every thing is in harmony. This library may be about a +hundred feet in length, by forty in width. It is sufficiently well +furnished with books, of the ordinary useful class, and was once, I +suspect, much richer in the bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century. +The Abbe Strattman bade me examine a _MS. of Horace_, of the twelfth +century, which he said had been inspected by Mitscherlich.[103] It seemed +to be of the period adjudged to it. The Vice-Principal, M. PALLAS, now made +his appearance. He talked French readily, and we all four commenced a very +interesting conversation, "Did any books ever travel out of this +library?"--said I. "Surely there must be many which are rather objects of +curiosity than of utility: rarely consulted, no doubt; but which, by being +exchanged for others of a more modern and useful description, would +contribute more effectually to the purposes of public education, in an +establishment of such magnitude?" + +These questions I submitted with great deference, and without the least +hesitation, to the Vice Principal; who replied in such a manner as to +induce me immediately to ascend the staircase, and commence a +reconnaissance among the books placed above the gallery. The result of +twenty minutes examination was, if not absolutely of the _most_ gratifying +kind, at least sufficient to induce me to offer _twenty louis d'or_ for +some thirty volumes, chiefly thin quartos, containing many Greek +grammatical and philosophical tracts, of which I had never before seen +copies. Some scarce and curious theological Latin tracts were also in this +number. I turned the books upon their fore-edges, leaving their ends +outwards, in order to indicate those which had been selected. M. Pallas +told me that he could say nothing definitive in reply,[104] for that the +matter must be submitted to the Prelate, or head of the monastery, who, at +that time, was at Vienna, perhaps at the point of death. From the library +we went to the church. This latter is situated between the two wings: the +wings themselves forming the Saloon and the library. As we were about to +leave the library, the Abbe observed--"Here, we have food for the _mind_: +in the opposite quarter we dine--which is food for the _body_:[105] between +both, is the church, which contains food for the _soul_." On entering the +corridor, I looked up and saw the following inscription (from 1 _Mac._ c. +xii. v. 9.) over the library door: "_Habentes solatio sanctos libros qui +sunt in manibus nostris_." My next gratification was, a view of the +portrait of BERTHOLDUS DIETMAYR--the founder, or rather the restorer, both +of the library and of the monastery--possessing a countenance full of +intelligence and expression. Beneath the portrait, which is scarcely half +the size of life, is the following distich: + + _Bertholdi Dietmayr Quidquid Mortale, Tabella, + Ingentemque animum_ BIBLIOTHECA, _refert._ + +"There," exclaimed the Abbe Strattman--"there you have the portrait of a +_truly_ great man: one of the three select and privy counsellors of the +Emperor Charles VI. Dietmayr was a man of a truly lofty soul, of a refined +taste, and of unbounded wealth and liberality of spirit. Even longer than +this edifice shall last, will the celebrity of its founder endure." My +heart overflowed with admiration as I heard the words of the Abbe, gazing, +at the same time, intently upon the portrait of the Prelate Dietmayr. Such +men keep the balance of this world even. + +On reaching the last descending step, just before entering the church, the +Vice Principal bade me look upwards and view the cork-screw stair-case. I +did so: and to view and admire was one and the same operation of the mind. +It was the most perfect and extraordinary thing of the kind which I had +ever seen--the consummation (as I was told) of that particular species of +art. The church is the very perfection of ecclesiastical Roman +architecture: that of Chremsminster, although fine, being much inferior to +it in loftiness and richness of decoration. The windows are fixed so as to +throw their concentrated light beneath a dome, of no ordinary height, and +of no ordinary elegance of decoration; but this dome is suffering from +damp, and the paintings upon the ceiling will, unless repaired, be effaced +in the course of a few years. The church is in the shape of a cross; and at +the end of each of the transepts, is a rich altar, with statuary, in the +style of art usual about a century ago. The pews--made of dark mahogany or +walnut tree, much after the English fashion, but lower and more +tasteful--are placed on each side of the nave, on entering; with ample +space between them. They are exclusively appropriated to the tenants of the +monastery. At the end of the nave, you look to the left, opposite,--and +observe, placed in a recess--a PULPIT ... which, from top to bottom, is +completely covered with gold. And yet, there is nothing gaudy, or +tasteless, or glaringly obtrusive, in this extraordinary clerical rostrum. +The whole is in the most perfect taste; and perhaps more judgment was +required to manage such an ornament, or appendage,--consistently with the +splendid style of decoration exacted by the founder--(for it was expressly +the Prelate Dietmayr's wish that it _should_ be so adorned) than may, on +first consideration, be supposed. In fact, the whole church is in a blaze +of gold; and I was told that the gilding alone cost upwards of ninety +thousand florins. Upon the whole, I understood that the church of this +monastery was considered as the most beautiful in Austria; and I can easily +believe it to be so. + +The time flew away so quickly that there was no opportunity of seeing the +Saloon. Indeed, I was informed that it was occupied by the students--an +additional reason why I _ought_ to have seen it. "But have you no old +paintings, Mr. Vice Principal--no Burgmairs, Cranachs, or Albert Durers?" +said I to M. Pallas. "Ha! (observed he in reply,) you like old pictures, +then, as well as old books. Come with me, and you shall be satisfied." So +saying, the Abbe Strattman[106] left us, and I followed the Vice +Principal--into a small, wainscoted room, of which he touched the springs +of some of the compartments, and anon there was exhibited to my view a +series of sacred subjects, relating to the Life of Christ, executed by the +first and last named masters: exceedingly fresh, vigorously painted, and +one or two of them very impressive, but bordering upon the grotesque. I am +not sure that I saw any thing more striking of the kind even in the +extraordinary collection at Augsbourg. From this room I was conducted into +the Prelate's apartment, where I observed a bed--in an arched recess--which +might be called a bed of state. "Our Prelate has left his apartment for the +last time; he will never sleep in this bed again"--observed M. Pallas, +fixing himself at the foot of it, and directing his eyes towards the +pillow. I saw what it was to be beloved and respected; for the Vice +Principal took the end of his gown to wipe away a little _dust_ (as he was +pleased to call it--but I suspect it was a starting tear) which had fallen +into his eye. I was then shewn a set of china, manufactured at Vienna--upon +some of the pieces of which were painted views of the monastery. This had +been presented to the Prelate; and I was then, as a final exhortation, +requested to view the country around me. Need I again remark, that this +country was enchantingly fine? + +On returning to the inn, and dining, we lingered longer than we were wont +to do over our dessert and white wine, when the valet came to announce to +us that from thence to _St. Poelten_ was a long stage; and that if we wished +to reach the latter before dark, we had not ten minutes to spare. This hint +was sufficient: and the ten minutes had scarcely elapsed when we were on +the high road to St. Poelten. It was indeed almost with the last glimmer of +daylight that we entered this town, yet I could observe, on descending the +hill by which we entered it, a stone crucifix, with the usual accompanying +group. I resolved to give it a careful examination on the morrow. + +The inn at St. Poelten (I think it was the Dolphin) surprised us by its +cheerfulness and neatness. The rooms were papered so as to represent gothic +interiors, or ornamented gardens, or shady bowers. Every thing +was--almost--as an Englishman could wish it to be. Having learnt that the +MONASTERY OF GOeTTWIC was a digression of only some twelve or fourteen +miles, I resolved to set off to visit it immediately after an early +breakfast. We had scarcely left the town, when we observed a group of +rustics, with a crucifix carried in front--indicating that they were about +to visit some consecrated spot, for the purpose of fulfilling a vow or +performing an annual pilgrimage. I stopped the carriage, to take a survey +of so novel a scene; but I confess that there was nothing in it which +induced me to wish to be one of the party. If I mistake not, this was the +first pilgrimage or procession, of the kind, which I had seen in Austria, +or even in Bavaria. It was a sorry cavalcade. Some of the men, and even +women, were without shoes and stockings; and they were scattered about the +road in a very loose, straggling manner. Many of the women wore a piece of +linen, or muslin, half way up their faces, over the mouth; and although the +road was not very smooth, both men and women appeared to be in excellent +spirits, and to move briskly along--occasionally singing, and looking up to +the crucifix--which a stout young man carried at the head of them. They +were moving in the direction of the Monastery of Goettwic. + +It was cold and cloudy at starting; but on leaving the main road, and +turning to the left, the horizon cleared up--and it was evident that a fine +day was in store for us. Our expectations were raised in proportion to the +increasing beauty of the day. The road, though a cross one, was good; +winding through a pleasant country, and affording an early glimpse of the +monastery in question--at the distance of at least ten miles--and situated +upon a lofty eminence. The first view of it was grand and imposing, and +stimulated us to urge our horses to a speedier course. The country +continued to improve. Some vineyards were beginning to shew the early blush +of harvest; and woods of fir, and little meandring streams running between +picturesque inequalities of ground, gave an additional interest to every +additional mile of the route. At length we caught a glimpse of a crowd of +people, halting, in all directions. Some appeared to be sitting, others +standing, more lying; and a good number were engaged in devotion before a +statue. As we approached them, we observed the statue to be that of St. +Francis; around which this numerous group of pilgrims appeared to have +marshalled themselves--making a HALT in their pilgrimage (as we afterwards +learnt) to the monastery of Goettwic. + +The day continued to become more and more brilliant, and the scenery to +keep pace with the weather. It was evident that we were nearing the +monastery very rapidly. On catching the first distinct view of it, my +companion could not restrain his admiration. At this moment, from the +steepness of the ascent, I thought it prudent to descend, and to walk to +the monastery. The view from thence was at once commanding and enchanting. +The Danube was the grand feature in the landscape; while, near its very +borders, at the distance perhaps of three English miles, stood the post +town of _Chrems_. The opposite heights of the Danube were well covered with +wood. The sun now shone in his meridian splendour, and every feature of the +country seemed to be in a glow with his beams. I next turned my thoughts to +gain entrance within the monastery, and by the aid of my valet it was not +long before that wished for object was accomplished. The interior is large +and handsome, but of less architectural splendor than Moelk or even St. +Florian. The librarian, Odilo Klama, was from home. Not a creature was to +be found; and I was pacing the cloisters with a dejected air, when my +servant announced to me that the Vice Principal would receive me, and +conduct me to the Head or President. + +This was comforting intelligence. I revived in an instant; and following, +along one corridor, and up divers stair-cases, I seemed to be gaining the +summit of the building, when a yet more spacious corridor brought me to the +door of the President's apartments: catching views, on my way thither, of +increasing extent and magnificence. But all consideration of exterior +objects was quickly lost on my reception at head quarters. The Principal, +whose name is ALTMANN, was attired in a sort of half-dignity dress; a gold +chain and cross hung upon his breast, and a black silk cap covered his +head. A gown, and what seemed to be a cassock, covered his body. He had the +complete air of a gentleman, and might have turned his fiftieth year. His +countenance bespoke equal intelligence and benevolence:--but alas! not a +word of French could he speak--and Latin was therefore necessarily resorted +to by both parties. I entreated him to forgive all defects of composition +and of pronunciation; at which he smiled graciously. The Vice Principal +then bowed to the Abbot and retreated; but not before I had observed them +to whisper apart--and to make gesticulations which I augured to portend +something in the shape of providing refreshment, if not dinner. My +suspicion was quickly confirmed; for, on the Vice Principal quitting the +apartment, the Abbot observed to me--"you will necessarily partake of our +dinner--which is usually at _one_ o'clock; but which I have postponed till +_three_, in order that I may conduct you over the monastery, and shew you +what is worthy of observation. You have made a long journey hither, and +must not be disappointed." + +The manner in which this was spoken was as courteous as the purport of the +speech was hospitable. "Be pleased to be covered (continued the Abbot) and +I will conduct you forthwith to the Library: although I regret to add that +our Librarian Odilo is just now from home--having gone, for the day, upon a +botanical excursion towards Chrems--as it is now holiday time." In our way +to the library, I asked the Principal respecting the revenues of the +establishment and its present condition--whether it were flourishing or +otherwise--adding, that Chremsminster appeared to me to be in a very +flourishing state." "They are much wealthier (observed the Principal) at +Chremsminster than we are here. Establishments like this, situated near a +metropolis, are generally more _severely_ visited than are those in a +retired and remote part of the kingdom. Our very situation is inviting to a +foe, from its commanding the adjacent country. Look at the prospect around +you. It is unbounded. On yon opposite wooded heights, (on the other side of +the Danube) we all saw, from these very windows, the fire and smoke of the +advanced guard of the French army, in contest with the Austrians, upon +Bonaparte's first advance towards Vienna. The French Emperor himself took +possession of this monastery. He slept here, and we entertained him the +next day with the best _dejeune a la fourchette_ which we could afford. He +seemed well satisfied with his reception; but I own that I was glad when he +left us. Strangers to arms in this tranquil retreat, and visited only, as +you may now visit us, for the purpose of peaceful hospitality, it agitated +us extremely to come in contact with warriors and chieftains. + +The preceding was not delivered in one uninterrupted flow of language; but +I only string it together as answers to various questions put by myself. +"Observe yonder"--continued the Abbot--"do you notice an old castle in the +distance, to the left, situated almost upon the very banks of the Danube?" +"I observe it well," replied I. "That castle, (answered he) so tradition +reports, once held your Richard the First, when he was detained a prisoner +by Leopold Marquis of Austria, on his return from the Holy-Land." The more +the Abbot spoke, and the more I continued to gaze around, the more I +fancied myself treading upon faery ground, and that the scene in which I +was engaged partook of the illusion of romance. "Our funds (continued my +intelligent guide, as he placed his hand upon my arm, and arrested our +progress towards the library) need be much more abundant than they really +are. We have great burdens to discharge. All our food is brought from a +considerable distance, and we are absolutely dependant upon our neighbours +for water, as there are neither wells nor springs in the soil." "I wonder +(replied I) why such a spot was chosen--except for its insulated and +commanding situation--as water is the first requisite in every monastic +establishment?" "Do you then overlook the _Danube_?"--resumed he--"We get +our fish from thence; and, upon the whole, feel our wants less than it +might be supposed." + +In our way to the Library, I observed a series of oil paintings along the +corridor--which represented the history of the founder, and of the +foundation, of the monastery.[107] The artist's name was, if I remember +rightly, Helgendoeffer--or something like it. Many of the subjects were +curious, and none of them absolutely ill executed. I observed the devil, or +some imp, introduced in more than one picture; and remarked upon it to my +guide. He said--"where will you find truth unmixed with fiction?" My +observation was adroitly parried; and we now found ourselves close to the +library door; where three or four Benedictins, (for I should have told you +that this famous monastery is of the order of _St. Benedict_) professors on +the establishment, were apparently waiting to receive us. They first +saluted the Abbot very respectfully, and then myself--with a degree of +cheerfulness amounting almost to familiarity. In a remote and strange +place, of such a character, nothing is more encouraging than such a +reception. Two of our newly joined associates could luckily speak the +French language, which rendered my intercourse with the Principal yet more +pleasing and satisfactory to myself. The library door was now opened, and I +found myself within a long and spacious room--of which the book-shelves +were composed of walnut tree--but of which the architectural ornaments were +scarcely to be endured, after having so recently seen those in the library +of Moelk. However, it may be fairly said that the Library was worthy of the +Monastery: well stored with books and MSS., and probably the richest in +bibliographical lore in Austria, after that at Vienna. + +We now entered the saloon, for dinner. It was a larger light, and lofty +room. The ceiling was covered with paintings of allegorical subjects, in +fresco, descriptive of the advantages of piety and learning. Among the +various groups, I thought I could discern--as I could only take a hasty +survey during my meal--the apotheosis of the founder of the monastery. +Perhaps I rather wished to see it there, than that it was absolutely +depicted. However, we sat down, at the high table--precisely as you may +remember it in the halls at Oxford--to a plentiful and elegant repast. The +Principal did me the honour of placing me at his right hand. Grace was no +sooner said, than Mr. Lewis made his appearance, and seemed to view the +scene before him with mingled delight and astonishment. He had, in fact, +just completed his sketch of the monastery, and was well satisfied at +seeing me in such quarters, and so occupied. The brethren were also well +pleased to receive him, but first begged to have a glance at the +drawing--with which they were highly gratified. + +My companion having joined the festive board, the conversation, and the +cups of Rhenish wine, seemed equally to circulate without restraint. We +were cheerful, even to loud mirth; and the smallness of the party, compared +with the size of the hall, caused the sounds of our voices to be +reverberated from every quarter. Meantime, the sun threw his radiant beams +through a window of noble dimensions, quite across the saloon--so as to +keep us in shadow, and illuminate the other parts of the room. Thus we were +cool, but the day without had begun to be sultry. Behind me, or rather +between the Abbot and myself, stood a grave, sedate, and inflexible-looking +attendant--of large, square dimensions--habited in a black gown, which +scarcely reached the skirts of his coat. He spake not; he moved not; save +when he saw my glass emptied, which without any previous notice or +permission, he made a scrupulous point of filling ... even to the very +brim!... with the most highly flavoured Rhenish wine which I had yet tasted +in Germany. Our glasses being of the most capacious dimensions, it behoved +me to cast an attentive eye upon this replenishing process; and I told the +worthy master of the table that we should be quickly revelling in our cups. +He assured me that the wine, although good, was weak; but begged that I +would consider myself at liberty to act as I pleased. + +In due time, the cloth was cleared; and a dessert, consisting chiefly of +delicious peaches, succeeded. A new order of bottles was introduced; tall, +square, and capacious; which were said to contain wine of the same quality, +but of a more delicate flavour. It proved indeed to be most exquisite. The +past labours of the day, together with the growing heat, had given a relish +to every thing which I tasted; and, in the full flow of my spirits, I +proposed--a sentiment, which I trusted would be considered as perfectly +orthodox--"Long life, and happy times to the present members, and +increasing prosperity to, the monastery of Goettwic." It was received and +drank with enthusiasm. The Abbot then proceeded to give me an account of a +visit paid him by Lord Minto, some years ago, when the latter was +ambassador at Vienna; and he spoke of that nobleman's intelligent +conversation, and amiable manners, in a way which did him great credit. +"Come, Sir;" said he: "you shall not find me ungrateful. I propose drinking +prosperity and long life to every representative of the British nation who +is resident at Vienna. May the union between your country and ours become +indissoluble." I then requested that we might withdraw; as the hours were +flying away, and as we purposed sleeping within one stage of Vienna on that +same evening. + +"Your wishes shall be mine," answered the Abbot. Whereupon he rose--with +all the company--and stepping some few paces backwards, placed his hands +across his breast upon the gold cross; half closed his eyes; and said +grace--briefly and softly; in a manner the most impressive which I had ever +witnessed. We then quickly left the noble room in which we had been +banquetting, and prepared to visit the church and what might be called the +state apartments, which we had not before seen. After the rooms at St. +Florian, there was not much particularly to admire in those of Goettwic: +except that they appeared to be better lighted, and most of them commanded +truly enchanting views of the Danube and of the surrounding country. In one +room, of smaller dimensions, ornamented chiefly in white and gold (if I +remember rightly) a _Collection of Prints_ was kept; but those which I saw +were not very remarkable for their antiquity, or for their beauty of +subject or of impression. The sun was now getting low, and we had a stage +of at least fourteen miles to accomplish ere we could think of retiring to +rest. + +"Show us now, worthy Sir, your crypt and church; and then, with pain be it +pronounced, we must bid you farewell. Within little more than two hours, +darkness will have covered the earth." Such was my remark to the Abbot; who +replied: "Say not so: we cannot part with you yet. At any rate you must not +go without a testimony of the respect we entertain for the object of your +visit. Those who love books, will not object to increase their own stock by +a copy of our CHRONICON GOTWICENSE--commenced by one of my learned +predecessors, but alas! never completed. Come with me to my room, before we +descend to the church, and receive the work in question." Upon which, the +amiable Head of the monastery set off, at rather a hurried pace, with +myself by the side of him, along several corridors--towards his own +apartment, to present me with this Chronicle. I received it with every +demonstration of respect--and entreated the Abbot to inscribe a "_dono +dedit_" in the fly leaf, which would render it yet more valuable in my +estimation.[108] He cheerfully complied with this request. The courtesy, +the frankness, the downright heartiness of feeling with which all this was +done--together with the value of the present--rendered it one of the most +delightful moments of my existence. I instinctively caught the Abbot's arm, +pressed his hand with a cordial warmth between both of mine--and pausing +one little moment, exclaimed "_Dies hic omnino commemoratione dignus!_" + +A sort of sympathetic shouting succeeded; for, by this time, the whole of +our party had reached the Abbot's rooms. I now requested, to be immediately +taken to the church; and within five minutes we were in the crypt. It +scarcely merits one word of description on the score of antiquity; and may +be, at the farthest, somewhere about three centuries old. The church is +small and quite unpretending, as a piece of architecture. On quitting the +church, and passing through the last court, or smaller quadrangle, we came +to the outer walls: and leaving them, we discerned--below--the horses, +carriage, and valet ... waiting to receive us. Our amiable Host and his +Benedictin brethren determined to walk a little way down the hill, to see +us fairly seated and ready to start. I entreated and remonstrated that this +might not be; but in vain. On reaching the carriage, we all shook hands +very cordially together, but certainly I pressed those of the Abbot more +earnestly than the rest. We then saluted by uncovering; and, stepping into +the carriage, I held aloft the first volume of the GOeTTWIC +CHRONICLE--exclaiming ... "_Valete, Domini eruditissimi: dies hic +commemoratione dignus_:" to which the Abbot replied, with peculiarly +emphatic sonorousness of voice, "_Vale: Deus te, omnesque tibi charissimos, +conservet_." They then stopped for a moment ... as the horses began to be +put in motion ... and retracing their steps up the hill, towards the outer +gate of the monastery, disappeared. I thought--but it might not be so--that +I discerned the Abbot, at the distance of some two hundred yards, yet +lingering alone--with his right arm raised, and shaking it as the last and +most affectionate token of farewell. + +The evening was serene and mild; and the road, although a cross way, was +perfectly sound--winding through a country of fertility and picturesque +beauty. We saw few vineyards: but those which met our eyes showed the grape +to be in its full purple tint, if not beginning to ripen. I had resolved +upon stopping to sleep at _Sirghartskirchen_ within two stages of +Vienna--thus avoiding the post town of _Perschling_, which is situated in +the direct road to Vienna from _St. Poelten_--which latter place, as you may +remember, we had left in the morning. Before the darker shades of evening +began to prevail, we turned round to catch a farewell glance of the +hospitable monastery which we had left behind--and were lucky in viewing +it, (scarcely less than seven or eight miles in our rear) just as the +outline of its pinnacles could be discerned against a clear, and yet almost +brilliant, sky. + +It was quite dark, and nearer upon eleven than ten o'clock, when we entered +the insignificant post town of _Sirghartskirchen_--where we stretched our +limbs rather than reposed; and after a hasty, but not very ill provided +breakfast, the next morning, we pushed on for _Burkersdorf_, the last post +town on that side of Vienna. It may be about nine English miles from +Burkersdorf to the capital; of which the greater part is rather agreeable +than otherwise. It was here, as in approaching Strasbourg, that I turned my +eyes in all directions to catch an early glimpse of the tower of St. +Stephen's Cathedral, but in vain. At length, to the right, we saw the +magnificent chateau of _Schoenbrunn_. + +The road now became flat and sandy, and the plains in the vicinity of the +capital destitute of trees. "Voila la Cathedrale!" shouted the valet. It +was to the left, or rather a little in front: of a tapering, spire-like +form: but, seeing only a small portion of it--the lower part being +concealed by the intervening rising ground--I could form no judgment of its +height. We now neared the suburbs, which are very extensive, and swarming +with population. I learnt that they entirely surrounded the capital, in an +equal state of populousness. The barriers were now approached: and all the +fears, which my accidental travelling acquaintance at Augsbourg had put +into my head, began to revive and to take possession of me. But what has an +honest man to fear? "Search closely (observed I to the principal examining +officer) for I suspect that there is something contraband at the bottom of +the trunk. Do you forbid the importation of an old Greek manual of +devotion?"--said I, as I saw him about to lay his hand upon the precious +Aldine volume, of which such frequent mention has been already made. The +officer did not vouchsafe even to open the leaves--treating it, +questionless, with a most sovereign contempt; but crying, "bah!--vous +pouvez bien passer," he replaced the things which he had very slightly +discomposed, and added that he wished all contraband articles to consist of +similar materials. We parted with mutual smiles; but I thought there +lingered something like a feeling of reproach, in the last quiver or turn +of his lip, at my not having slipt two or three florins into his +hand--which was broad and brawny enough to have grasped threescore or a +hundred. "I will remember you on my return,"--exclaimed I, as the carriage +drove off. He gave me a most sceptical shake of the head, as he retreated +into his little tenement, like a mastiff into his kennel. + +The whole of VIENNA, as it now seemed--with its cathedral, churches, +palaces, and ramparts--was before us. As we approached the chief entrance, +or gateway, I recognised the _Imperial Library_; although it was only a +back view of it. In truth, it appeared to be just as I remembered it in the +vignette-frontispiece of Denis's folio catalogue of the Latin Theological +MSS. contained in the same library. My memory proved to be faithful; for we +were assured that the building in view _was_ the library in question. It +was our intention to take up our quarters at the principal inn, called the +_Empress of Austria_; and, with this view, we drove up to the door of that +hotel: but a tall, full-dressed man, with a broad sash across his body, and +a silver-tipped staff in his right hand, marched pompously up to the door +of the carriage, took off his hat, and informed us with great solemnity +that "the hotel was entirely filled, and that his master could not have the +honour of entertaining us." On receiving this intelligence, we were +comforted by the assurance, on the part of the post-boy and valet, that the +second hotel, called the _Crown of Hungary_,--and situated in the +_Himelfort Gasse_, or _Heaven-gate Street_--was in every respect as +desirable as that which we were compelled to quit. Accordingly we alighted +at the door of the _Hungarische Krone_--equally marvelling, all the way +thither, at the enormous size of the houses, and at the narrowness of the +streets. + +But it is time to terminate this epistle. Yet I must not fail informing +you, that every thing strikes me as approximating very much to my own +native country. The countenances, the dresses, the manners of the +inhabitants, are very nearly English. My apartments are gay as well as +comfortable. A green-morocco sofa, beneath a large and curiously cut +looking-glass--with chairs having velvet seats, and wainscot and ceiling +very elegantly painted and papered--all remind me that I am in a +respectable hotel. A strange sight occupied my attention the very first +morning after my arrival. As the day broke fully into my room--it might be +between five and six o'clock--I heard a great buzzing of voices in the +street. I rose, and looking out of window, saw, from one end of the street +to the other, a countless multitude of women--sitting, in measured ranks, +with pots of cream and butter before them. It was in fact the chief market +day for fruit, cream, and butter; and the _Himelfort Gasse_ is the +principal mart for the sale of these articles. The weather has recently +become milder, and I feel therefore in better trim for the attack upon the +IMPERIAL LIBRARY, where I deliver my credentials, or introductory letters, +to-morrow. God bless you. + + +[97] St. FLORIAN was a soldier and sufferer in the time of the Emperors + Diocletian and Maximinian. He perished in the tenth and last + persecution of the Christian Church by the Romans. The judge, who + condemned him to death, was Aquilinus. After being importuned to + renounce the Christian religion, and to embrace the Pagan creed, as + the only condition of his being rescued from an immediate and cruel + death, St. Florian firmly resisted all entreaties; and shewed a + calmness, and even joyfulness of spirits, in proportion to the stripes + inflicted upon him previous to execution. He was condemned to be + thrown into the river, from a bridge, with a stone fastened round his + neck. The soldiers at first hesitated about carrying the judgment of + Aquilinus into execution. A pause of an hour ensued: which was + employed by St. Florian in prayer and ejaculation! A furious young man + then rushed forward, and precipitated the martyr into the river: + "Fluvius autem suscipiens martyrem Christi, expavit, et elevatis undis + suis, in quodam eminentiori loco in saxo corpus ejus deposuit. Tunc + annuente favore divino, adveniens aquila, expansis alis suis in modum + crucis, eum protegebat." _Acta Sanctorum; Mens. Maii_, vol. i. p. 463. + St. Florian is a popular saint both in Bavaria and Austria. He is + usually represented in armour, pouring water from a bucket to + extinguish a house, or a city, in flames, which is represented below. + Raderus, in his _Bavaria Sacra_, vol. i. p. 8, is very particular + about this monastery, and gives a list of the pictures above noticed, + on the authority of Sebastianus ab Adelzhausen, the head of the + monastery at that time; namely in 1615. He also adorns his pages with + a copper cut of the martyr about to be precipitated into the river, + from the bank--with his hands tied behind him, without any stone about + his neck. But the painting, as well as the text of the Acta Sanctorum, + describes the precipitation as from a bridge. The form of the + Invocation to the Saint is, "O MARTYR and SAINT, FLORIAN, keep us, we + beseech thee, by night and by day, from all harm by FIRE, or from + other casualties of this life." + +[98] "Nostris vero temporibus Reverendissimi Praepositi studio augustum sanc + templum raro marmore affatim emicans, paucisque inuidens assurexit." + This is the language of the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia + Omnium Germaniae Provinciarum_, 1701, folio, p. 16: when speaking of + THE MONASTERY of ST. FLORIAN. + +[99] See p. 78, ante. + +[100] It may be only sufficient to carry it as far back as the twelfth + century. What precedes that period is, as usual, obscure and + unsatisfactory. The monastery was originally of the _Benedictin_ + order; but it was changed to the _Augustine_ order by Engelbert. + After this latter, Altman reformed and put it upon a most respectable + footing--in 1080. He was, however, a severe disciplinarian. Perhaps + the crypt mentioned by M. Klein might be of the latter end of the + XIIth century; but no visible portion of the superincumbent building + can be older than the XVIth century. + +[101] The history of this monastery is sufficiently fertile in marvellous + events; but my business is to be equally brief and sober in the + account of it. In the _Scriptores Rerum Austriacarum_ of + _Pez_, vol. i. col. 162-309, there is a chronicle of the + monastery, from the year of its foundation to 1564, begun to be + written by an anonymous author in 1132, and continued to the latter + period by other coeval writers--all monks of the monastery. It is + printed by Pez for the first time--and he calls it "an ancient and + genuine chronicle." The word Moelk, or Moelck,--or, as it appears in the + first map in the _Germania Austriaca, seu Topographia Omnium + Germaniae Provinciarum_, 1701, fol. Melck--was formerly written + "Medilicense, Medlicense, Medlicum, Medlich, and Medelick, or + Mellicense." This anonymous chronicle, which concludes at col. 290, is + followed by "a short chtonicle of Conrad de Wizenberg," and "an + anonymous history of the Foundation of the Monastery," compared with + six other MSS. of the same kind in the library at Moelk. The whole is + concluded by "an ancient Necrology of the Monastery," commenced in the + XIIth century, from a vellum MS. of the same date. + + In the _Monasteriologia of Stengelius_, we have a list of the + Heads or Primates of Moelk, beginning with Sigiboldus, in 1089, (who + was the first that succeeded Leopold, the founder) down to Valentinus, + in 1638; who was living when the author published his work. There is + also a copper-plate print of a bird's eye view of the monastery, in + its ancient state, previously to the restoration of it, in its + present form, by DIETMAYR. + +[102] [The late Duke.] + +[103] I do not however find it in the Notitia Literaria prefixed to the + edition of Horace, published by Mitscherlich in 1800: see vol. i. p. + xxvi. where he notices the MSS. of the poet which are deposited in the + libraries of Germany. + +[104] It was not till my arrival at Manheim, on my return to Paris, that I + received the "definitive reply" of the worthy Sub-Principal--which was + after the following manner. "Monsieur--La lettre du 21 Septembre, que + vous m'avez faite l'honneur de m'ecrire, je ne l'ai recue que depuis + peu, c'est-a-dire, depuis le retour de mon voyage. Les scrupules que + vous faites touchant l'echange des livres, ont ete leves par vous-meme + dans l'instant que vous en avez faites la proposition. Mais, + malheureusement, la lettre qui devait apporter la confirmation du + Prelat, n'a apportee que la triste nouvelle de sa mort. Vous sentez + bien, que des ce moment il ne sauroit plus etre question de rien. Je + ne doute pas, que quoique aucun livre ancien ne soit jusqu'a ce moment + sorti de la Bibliotheque du Couvent, le Prelat n'eut fait une + exception honorable en egard a l'illustre personnage auquel ces livres + ont ete destines et a la collection unique d'un art, a fait naitre + toutes les bibliotheques, &c. J'ai l'honneur, &c. votre tres humble et + tres obeisant serviteur," + + [Autograph] + +[105] In an octavo volume published by a Dr. Cadet, who was a surgeon in + Bonaparte's army in the campaign in Austria, in 1809, and who entitles + his work--_Voyage en Autriche, en Moravie, et en + Baviere_--published at Paris in 1818--we are favoured with a slight + but spirited account of the monastery of Moelk--of the magnificence of + its structure, and of the views seen from thence: but, above all, of + the PRODUCE OF ITS CELLARS. The French Generals were lodged there, in + their route to Vienna; and the Doctor, after telling us of the extent + of the vaults, and that a carriage might be turned with ease in some + of them, adds, "in order to have an idea of the abundance which reigns + there, it may be sufficient only to observe, that, for four successive + days, during the march of our troops through Moelk, towards Vienna, + there were delivered to them not less than from 50 to 60,000 pints of + wine per day--and yet scarcely one half of the stock was exhausted! + The monastery, however, only contains twelve Religieux. The interior + of the church is covered with such a profusion of gilt and rich + ornaments, that when the sun shines full upon it, it is difficult to + view it without being dazzled." Page 79. + + The old monastery of Moelk successfully stood a siege of three months, + against the Hungarians, in the year 1619. See _Germ. Austriaca_, + &c. p. 18. + +[106] [The Abbe Strattman SURVIVED the above interview only about _five + years_. I hope and trust that the worthy Vice Principal is as well + NOW, as he was about three years ago, when my excellent friend Mr. + Lodge, the Librarian of the University of Cambridge, read to him an + off-hand German version of the whole of this account of my visit to + his Monastery.] + +[107] This history has come down to us from well authenticated materials; + however, in the course of its transmission, it may have been partially + coloured with fables and absurdities. The Founder of the Monastery was + ALTMANN, Bishop of Passau; who died in the year 1091, about twenty + years after the foundation of the building. The two ancient + biographies of the Founder, each by a Monk or Principal of the + monastery, are introduced into the collection of Austrian historians + by _Pez_; vol. i. col. 112-162. Stengelius has a bird's eye view + of the monastery as it appeared in 1638, and before the principal + suite of apartments was built. But it is yet in an unfinished state; + as the view of it from the copper-plate engraving, at page 248 ante, + represents it with the _intended_ additions and improvements. + These latter, in all probability, will never be carried into effect. + This monastery enjoyed, of old, great privileges and revenues. It had + twenty-two parish churches--four towns--several villages, &c. subject + to its ecclesiastical jurisdiction; and these parishes, together with + the monastery itself, were not under the visitation of the Diocesan + (of Passau) but of the Pope himself. Stengelius + (_Monasteriologia_, sign. C) speaks of the magnificent views seen + from the summit of the monastery, on a clear day; observing, however, + (even in his time) that it was without springs or wells, and that it + received the rain water in leaden cisterns. "Caeterum (adds he) + am[oen]issimum et plane aspectu jucundissimum habet situm." Towards the + middle of the seventeenth century, this monastery appears to have + taken the noble form under which it is at present beheld. It has not + however escaped from more than _one_ severe visitation by the + Turks. + +[108] On my arrival in England, I was of course equally anxious and happy + to place the CHRONICON GOeTWICENSE in the library at Althorp. But I + have not, in the text above, done full justice to the liberality of + the present Abbot of the monastery. He gave me, in addition, a + copy--of perhaps a still scarcer work--entitled "_Notitia Austriae + Antiquae et Mediae seu tam Norici Veteris quam Pagi et Marchae_, &c." by + MAGNUS KLEIN, Abbot of the monastery, and of which the first volume + only was published "typis Monasterii Tegernseensis," in 1781, 4to. + This appears to be a very learned and curious work. And here ... let + me be allowed for the sake of all lovers of autographs of good and + great men--to close this note with a fac-simile of the hand writing + (in the "dono dedit"--as above mentioned) of the amiable and erudite + donor of these acceptable volumes. It is faithfully thus:--the + _original_ scription will only, I trust, perish with the book: + + [Autograph] + + + + +LETTER X. + + +IMPERIAL LIBRARY. ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS +AND EARLY PRINTED BOOKS. + + +VIENNA; _Hotel of the Crown of Hungary, Sept. 9, 1818_. + +It gave me the sincerest pleasure, my dear friend, to receive your +letter... only a very few hours after the transmission of my last. At such +a distance from those we love and esteem, you can readily imagine the sort +of _comfort_ which such communications impart. I was indeed rejoiced to +hear of the health and welfare of your family, and of that of our friend * +*, who is indeed not only a thorough-bred _Rorburgher_, but a truly +excellent and amiable man. The account of the last anniversary-meeting of +the Club has, however, been a little painful to me; inasmuch as it proves +that a sort of _heresy_ has crept into the Society--which your +Vice-President, on his return, will labour as effectually as he can to +eradicate.[109] + +I had anticipated your wishes. You tell me, "send all you can collect about +the IMPERIAL LIBRARY of Vienna; its MSS. and printed books: its treasures +in the shape of _Fifteeners_ and _Sixteeners_: in short, be copious (say +you) in your description." The present letter will at least convince you +that I have not been sparing in the account solicited; and, in truth, I am +well pleased to postpone a description of the buildings, and usual sights +and diversions of this metropolis, until I shall have passed a few more +days here, and had fuller opportunities of making myself acquainted with +details. Compared with every other architectural interior which I have yet +seen, this LIBRARY is beyond doubt the most magnificent in its structure. +But if my admiration be thus great of the building, and of the _books_, it +is at least equally so of _those_ who have the _management_ of them. You +must know that I arrived here at a very unfortunate moment for +bibliographical research. The holidays of the librarians commence at the +latter end of August, and continue 'till the end of September. I had no +sooner delivered my letter of introduction to the well known Mons. ADAM DE +BARTSCH--an Aulic Counsellor, and chief Director of the Library--than he +stepped backward with a thoughtful and even anxious brow. "What is the +matter, Sir, am I likely to be intrusive?" "My good friend"--replied +he--taking my arm with as pleasant an air of familiarity as if I had been +an old acquaintance--"you have visited us at a most unlucky moment: but let +me turn the matter over in my mind, and you shall have my determination on +the morrow." + +That "determination" was as agreeable as it was unexpected; and really on +my part--without the least affectation--unmerited. "I have been talking the +matter over with my brethren and coadjutors in the library-department, +(said M. Bartsch) and we have agreed--considering the great distance and +expense of your journey--to give you an extra week's research among our +books. We will postpone our regular trip to _Baden_,--whither the court, +the noblesse, and our principal citizens at present resort--in order that +you may have an opportunity of perfecting your enquiries. You will of +course make the most of your time." I thanked M. Bartsch heartily and +unfeignedly for his extreme civility and kindness, and told him that he +should not find me either slothful or ungrateful. In person M. Bartsch is +shorter than myself; but very much stouter. He is known in the graphic +world chiefly by his _Le Peintre Graveur_; a very skilful, and indeed an +invaluable production, in sixteen or eighteen octavo volumes--illustrated +with some curious fac-similes. He is himself an artist of no ordinary +ability; and his engravings, especially after some of Rubens's pictures, +are quite admirable. Few men have done so much at his time of life, and +borne the effect of so much strenuous toil, so well as himself. He is yet +gay in spirit, vigorous in intellect, and sound in judgment; and the +simplicity of his character and manners (for in truth we are become quite +intimate) is most winning.[110] Messrs. PAYNE and KOPITAR are the +Librarians who more immediately attend to the examination of the books. The +former is an Abbe--somewhat stricken in years, and of the most pleasing and +simple manners. I saw little of him, as he was anxious for the breezes of +Baden; but I saw enough to regret that he would not meet his brother +librarians at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, where I had prepared the +best fare in my power to entertain them.[111] + +M. Kopitar is an invaluable labourer in this bibliographical vineyard. I +had formerly seen him while he was in England; when he came with Mr. Henry +Foss to St. James's Place, to examine the _Aldine volumes_, and especially +those printed upon vellum. He himself reminded me of the chary manner in +which I seemed to allow him to handle those precious tomes. "You would +scarcely permit me (said he smilingly) to hold them half a minute in my +hands: but I will not treat you after the same fashion. You shall handle +_our_ vellum books, whether in ms. or in print, as long and as attentively +as you please." I felt the rebuke as it became a _preu_ chevalier in +bibliography to feel it. "I am indebted to you, M. Kopitar, (said I, in +reply) in more senses than _one_--- on this my visit to your Imperial +Library." "But (observed he quickly) you only did what you _ought_ to have +done." All power of rejoinder was here taken away. M. Kopitar is a +thoroughly good scholar, and is conversant in the Polish, German, +Hungarian, and Italian languages. He is now expressly employed upon the +_Manuscripts_; but he told me (almost with a sigh!) that he had become so +fond of the _Fifteeners_, that he reluctantly complied with the commands of +his superiors in entering on the ms. department. + +Before I lay my _Catalogue Raisonne_ of such books as I have examined, +before you, it is right and fitting that I make some mention of the +REPOSITORY in which these books are placed. In regard to the dimensions of +the library, and the general leading facts connected with the erection of +the building, as well as the number of the books, my authority is perhaps +the best that can be adduced: namely, that of Mons. de Bartsch himself. +Know then, my good friend, that the Imperial Library of Vienna is built +over a succession of arched vaults, which are made to contain the carriages +of the Emperor. + +You ascend a broad staircase, to the left, which is lined with fragments of +Greek and Roman antiquities. Almost the first room which you enter, is the +Reading Room. This may hold about thirty students comfortably, but I think +I saw more than forty on my first entrance: of whom several, with the +invincible phlegm of their country, were content to stand--leaning against +the wall, with their books in their hands. This room is questionless too +small for the object to which it is applied; and as it is the fashion, in +this part of the world, seldom or never to open the windows, the effect of +such an atmosphere of hydrogen is most revolting to sensitive nerves. When +the door was opened ... which at once gave me the complete length view of +the GRAND LIBRARY ... I was struck with astonishment! Such another sight is +surely no where to be seen.[112] The airiness, the height, the splendour, +the decorative minutiae of the whole--to say nothing of the interminable +rows of volumes of all sizes, and in all colours of morocco binding--put +every thing else out of my recollection. The floor is of red and white +marble, diamond-wise. I walked along it, with M. Bartsch on my right hand +and M. Kopitar on my left, as if fearful to scratch its polished +surface:--first gazing upon the paintings of the vaulted roof, and then +upon the statues and globes, alternately, below--while it seemed as if the +power of expressing the extent of my admiration, had been taken from me. At +length I reached the central compartment of this wonderful room, which is +crowned with a sort of oval and very lofty cupola, covered with a profusion +of fresco paintings. In the centre, below, stands a whole-length statue, in +white marble, of CHARLES VI., under whose truly imperial patronage this +library was built. Around him are sixteen whole length statues of certain +Austrian Marshals, also in white marble; while the books, or rather folios, +(almost wholly bound in red morocco) which line the sides of the whole of +this transept division of the room, were pointed out to me as having +belonged to the celebrated hero, PRINCE EUGENE. Illustrious man!--thought I +to myself--it is a taste like THIS which will perpetuate thy name, and +extol thy virtues, even when the memory of thy prowess in arms shall have +faded away! "See yonder"--observed M. Bartsch--"there are, I know not how +many, atlas folios of that Prince's collection of PRINTS. It is thought to +be unrivalled." + +"But where (replied I) is the _statue_ of this heroic collector, to whom +your library is probably indebted for its choicest treasures? Tell me, who +are these marshals that seem to have no business in such a sanctuary of the +Muses--while I look in vain for the illustrious Eugene?" There was more +force in this remark than I could have possibly imagined--for my guide was +silent as to the names of these Austrian marshals, and seemed to admit, +that PRINCE EUGENE... _ought_ to have been there. "But is it _too late_ to +erect his statue? Cannot he displace one of these nameless marshals, who +are in attitude as if practising the third step of the _Minuet de la +Cour_?" "Doucement, doucement, mon ami ... (replied M.B.) il faut +considerer un peu...." "Well, well--be it so: let me now continue my +general observation of the locale of this magical collection." M.B. readily +allowed me; and seemed silently to enjoy the gratification which I felt and +expressed. + +I then walked leisurely to the very extremity of the room; continuing to +throw a rapid, but not uninterested glance upon all the accessories of +gilding, carved work, paintings, and statuary, with which the whole seemed +to be in a perfect blaze. I paced the library in various directions; and +found, at every turn or fresh point of view, a new subject of surprise and +admiration. There is a noble gallery, made of walnut tree, ornamented with +gilding and constructed in a manner at once light and substantial, which +runs from one extremity of the interior to the other. It is a master-piece +of art in its way. Upon the whole, there is no furnishing you with any very +correct notion of this really matchless public library. At the further end +of the room, to the left, is a small door; which, upon opening, brings you +into the interior of a moderately sized, plain room, where the +_Fifteeners_ are lodged. The very first view of these ancient tomes +caused a certain palpitation of the heart. But neither this sort of +book-jewel room, nor the large library just described--leading to it--are +visited without the special license of the Curators: a plan, which as it +respects the latter room, is, I submit, exceedingly absurd; for, what makes +a noble book-room look more characteristic and inviting, than its being +_well filled with students_? Besides, on the score of health and +comfort--at least in the summer months--such a plan is almost absolutely +requisite. + +The MANUSCRIPTS are contained in a room, to the right, as you enter: +connected with the small room where M. Bartsch, as commander-in-chief, +regularly takes his station--from thence issuing such orders to his +officers as best contribute to the well-being of the establishment. The MS. +room is sufficiently large and commodious, but without any architectural +pretensions. It may be about forty feet long. Here I was first shewn, among +the principal curiosities, a _Senatus consultum de Bacchanalibus +coercendis_: a sort of police ordonnance, on a metal plate--supposed to +have been hung up in some of the public offices at Rome nearly 200 years +before the birth of Christ. It is doubtless a great curiosity, and +invaluable as an historical document--as far as it goes. Here is a _map_, +upon vellum, of the _Itinerary_ of _Theodosius the Great_, of the fourth +century; very curious, as exhibiting a representation of the then known +world, in which the most extraordinary ignorance of the relative position +of countries prevails. I understood that both _Pompeii_ and _Herculaneum_ +were marked on this map. One of the most singular curiosities, of the +antiquarian kind, is a long leather roll of _Mexican hieroglyphics_, which +was presented to the Emperor Charles V., by Ferdinand Cortez. There are +copies of these hieroglyphics, taken from a copper plate; but the solution +of them, like most of those from Egypt, will always be perhaps a point of +dispute with the learned. + +But the objects more particularly congenial with _my_ pursuits, were, as +you will naturally guess, connected rather with _vellum MSS._ of the +_Scriptures_ and _Classics_: and especially did I make an instant and +earnest enquiry about the famous fragment of the BOOK OF GENESIS, of the +fourth century, of which I had before read so much in Lambecius, and +concerning which my imagination was, strangely enough, wrought up to a most +extraordinary pitch. "Place before me that fragment, good M. Kopitar," said +I eagerly--"and you shall for ever have my best thanks." "_That_, and every +thing else (replied he) is much at your service: fix only your hours of +attendance, and our treasures are ready for your free examination." This +was as it should be. I enter therefore at once, my good friend, upon the +task of giving you a Catalogue Raisonne of those MSS. which it was my good +fortune to examine in the nine or ten days conceded to me for that purpose; +and during which I seemed to receive more than ordinary attention and +kindness from the principal librarians. + +FRAGMENT OF THE BOOK OF GENESIS--undoubtedly of the end of the fourth +century, at earliest. This fragment is a collection of twenty-four leaves, +in a folio form, measuring twelve inches by ten, of a small portion of the +Book of Genesis, written in large Greek capital letters of gold and silver, +now much faded, upon a purple ground. Every page of these twenty-four +leaves is embellished with a painting, or illumination, coloured after +nature, purposely executed _below_ the text, so that it is a running +_graphic_ illustration--as we should say--of the subject above. + +There is too small a portion of the TEXT to be of much critical importance, +but I believe this Greek text to be the _oldest extant_ of sacred writ: and +therefore I rejoiced on viewing this venerable and precious relic of +scriptural antiquity. Lambecius and Mabillon have given fac-similes of it; +and I think Montfaucon also--in his _Palaeographia Graeca_. At the end of +this fragment, are four pages of the _Gospel of St. Luke_--or, rather, +figures of the four Evangelists; which are also engraved by Lambecius, and, +from him, by Nesselius and Kollarius.[113] + +SACRAMENTARIUM, SEU MISSA PAPAE GREGORII, an oblong large octavo, or small +folio form. I own I have doubts about calling this volume a contemporaneous +production; that is to say, of the latter end of the sixth century. The +exterior, which, on the score of art, is more precious than the interior, +is doubtless however of a very early period. It consists of an ivory figure +of St. Jerome, guarded by a brass frame. The character of the interior, as +to its scription, does not appear to be older than the tenth century. + +GERMAN BIBLE of the EMPEROR WENCESLAUS, in six folio volumes. This too was +another of the particularly curious MSS. which, since the account of it in +my Decameron, I had much desired to see. It is, upon the whole, an imperial +production: but as extraordinary, and even whimsical, as it is magnificent. +Of these six volumes, only three are illuminated; and of the third, only +two third parts are finished. The text is a large lower-case gothic letter, +very nearly a quarter of an inch in height. The ornamental or border +illuminations have more grace and beauty than the subjects represented; +although, to the eye of an antiquarian virtuoso, the representations of the +unfortunate monarch will be the most interesting. + +I should notice by the way, on the competent authority of M. Kopitar, that +this German version of the Bible is one of the most ancient extant. These +books have suffered, in the binding, from the trenchant tools of the +artist. The gold in the illuminations is rather bright than refulgent. + +I now proceed with an account of some other MSS. appertaining to Scripture; +and hasten to introduce to your notice a magnificent folio volume, entitled +EVANGELISTARIUM, with a lion's head in the centre of the exterior binding, +surrounded by golden rays, and having a lion's head in each corner of the +square. The whole is within an arabesque border. There can be no doubt of +the binding being of the time of Frederick III. of the middle of the +fourteenth century; and it is at once splendid and tasteful. The book +measures nearly fifteen inches by ten. The inside almost surpasses any +thing of the kind I have seen. The vellum is smooth, thin, and white--and +the colours are managed so as to have almost a faery like effect. Each page +is surrounded with a light blue frame, having twisted flowers for corner +ornaments: the whole of a quiet, soft tint, not unlike what appears in the +Bible of Wenceslaus. Every line is written in a tall, broad gothic +letter--and every letter is _gold_. But the illuminations merit every +commendation. They are of various kinds. Some are divided into twelve +compartments: but the initial L, to the first page, _L_[_iber +Generationis_] is the most tasteful, as well as elaborate thing I ever +saw.[114] The figures of angels, on the side, and at bottom, have even the +merit of Greek art. A large illumination of our Saviour, with the Virgin +and Joseph below, closes the volume: which really can hardly be +sufficiently admired. The date of the text is 1368. + +I shall now give you an account of a few MISSALS of a higher order on the +score of art. And first, let me begin with a beautiful FLEMISH MISSAL, in +8vo.: in the most perfect state of preservation--and with the costliest +embellishments--as well as with a good number of drollerries _dotted_ about +the margins. The frame work, to the larger subjects, is composed of gothic +architecture. I am not sure that I have seen any thing which equals the +_drolleries_--for their variety, finish, and exquisite condition. The +vellum is not to be surpassed. What gives this book an additional value is, +that it was once the property of Charles V.: for, on the reverse of fol. +157, at bottom, is the following memorandum in his hand writing: _Afin que +Ie Ioye de vous recommande accepte bonne Dame cest mis sy en escript vostre +vray bon mestre._ CHARLES. A lovely bird, in the margin, is the last +illumination. In the whole, there are 179 leaves. + +The next article is a LARGE MISSAL, in letters of gold and silver, upon +black paper: a very extraordinary book--and, to me, unique. The first +illumination shews the arms of Milan and Austria, quarterly, surrounded by +an elaborate gold border. The text is in letters of silver--tall stout +gothic letters--with the initial letters of gold. Some of the subjects are +surrounded by gold borders, delightfully and gracefully disposed in circles +and flowers. At the bottom of the page, which faces the descent of the Holy +Ghost, is a fool upon horseback--very singular--and very spiritedly +touched. The binding is of red velvet, with a representation of the cloven +tongues at the day of Pentecost in silver-gilt. + +A third MISSAL, of the same beautiful character, is of an octavo form. The +two first illuminations are not to be exceeded, of their kind. The borders, +throughout, are arabesque, relieved by _cameo gris_,--with heads, +historical subjects, and every thing to enchant the eye and warm the heart +of a tasteful antiquary. The writing is a black, large, gothic letter, not +unlike the larger gothic font used by Ratdolt. The vellum is beautiful. The +binding is in the Grolier style. + +The last and not the least, in the estimation of a competent judge of +MSS.,--is, a German version of the HORTULUS ANIMAE of S. Brant. The volume +in question is undoubtedly among the loveliest books in the Imperial +Library. The character, or style of art, is not uncommon; but such a series +of sweetly drawn, and highly finished subjects, is hardly any where to be +seen--and certainly no where to be eclipsed. I should say the art was +rather Parisian than Flemish. The first in the series, is the following; +executed for me by M. Fendi. It occurs where the illuminations usually +commence, at the foot of the first page of the first Psalm. Observe, I +beseech you, how tranquilly the boat glides along, and how comfortable the +party appears. It is a hot day, and they have cut down some branches from +the trees to fasten in the sides of the boat--in order to screen them from +the heat of the sun. The flagon of wine is half merged in the cooling +stream--so that, when they drink, their thirst will be more effectually +quenched. There are viands, in the basket, beside the rower; and the +mingled sounds of the flageolets and guitar seem to steal upon your ear as +you gaze at the happy party--and, perhaps, long to be one of them! + +[Illustration] + +A hundred similar sweet things catch the eye as one turns over the spotless +leaves of this snow-white book. But the very impressive scene of Christ +asleep, watched by angels--(with certain musical instruments in their +hands, of which M. Kopitar could not tell me the names,) together with +another illumination of Mary, and Joseph in the distance, can hardly be +described with justice. The Apostles and Saints are large half lengths. St. +Anthony, with the devil in the shape of a black pig beneath his garment, is +cleverly managed; but the head is too large. Among the female figures, what +think you of MARY MAGDALENE--as here represented? And where will you find +female penance put to a severer trial? I apprehend the box, in front of +her, to be a _pix_, containing the consecrated elements. + +[Illustration] + +I now proceed to give you some account of MSS. of a different character: +_classical_, _historical_, and appertaining to _Romance_--which seemed to +me to have more particular claims upon the attention of the curious. The +famous Greek DIOSCORIDES shall lead the way. This celebrated MS. is a +large, thick, imperial quarto; measuring nearly fifteen inches by twelve. +The vellum is thin, and of a silky and beautiful texture. The colours in +the earlier illuminations are thickly coated and glazed, but very much +rubbed; and the faces are sometimes hardly distinguishable. The supposed +portrait of Dioscorides (engraved--as well as a dozen other of these +illuminations--in Lambecius, &c.) is the most perfect. + +The plants are on one side of the leaf, the text is on the other. The +former are, upon the whole, delicately and naturally coloured. At the end, +there is an ornithological treatise, which is very curious for the +colouring of the birds. This latter treatise is written in a smaller Greek +capital letter than the first; but M. Kopitar supposes it to be as ancient. +We know from an indisputably coeval date, that this precious MS. was +executed by order of the Empress Juliana Anicia in the year of Christ 505. +There is a smaller MS. of Dioscorides, of a more recent date, in which the +plants are coloured, and executed--one, two, or three, in number--upon the +rectos of the leaves, with the text below, in two columns. Both the +illuminations and the text are of inferior execution to those of the +preceding MS. Montfaucon, who never saw the larger, makes much of the +smaller MS.; which scarcely deserves comparison with it. + +PHILOSTRATUS; Lat. This is the MS. which belonged to Matthias Corvinus--and +of which the illuminations are so beautiful, that Nesselius has thought it +worth while to give a fac-simile of the first--from whence I gave a portion +to the public in the Bibliog. Decameron.[115] I think that I may safely +affirm, that the two illuminations, which face each other at the beginning, +are the finest, in every respect, which I have seen of that period; but +they have been sadly damaged. The two or three other illuminations, by +different hands, are much inferior. The vellum and writing are equally +charming. + +VALERIUS MAXIMUS. This copy has the name of _Sambucus_ at the bottom of the +first illumination, and was doubtless formerly in the collection of +Matthias Corvinus--the principal remains of whose magnificent library +(although fewer than I had anticipated) are preserved in this collection. +The illumination in the MS. just mentioned, is very elegant and pleasing; +but the colours are rather too dark and heavy. The intended portrait of the +Roman historian, with the arms and supporters below, are in excellent good +taste. The initial letters and the vellum are quite delightful. The +scription is very good. + +LIVIUS: in six folio volumes. We have here a beautiful and magnificent MS. +in a fine state of preservation. There is only one illumination in each +volume; but that "one" is perhaps the most perfect specimen which can be +seen of that open, undulating, arabesque kind of border, which is rather +common in print as well as in MS., towards the end of the fifteenth +century. These six illuminations, for invention, delicacy, and brilliancy +of finish, are infinitely beyond any thing of the kind which I have seen. +The vellum is perfectly beautiful. To state which of these illuminations is +the most attractive, would be a difficult task; but if you were at my +elbow, I should direct your particular attention to that at the beginning +of the IXth book of the IVth Decad--especially to the opposite ornament; +where two green fishes unite round a circle of gold, with the title, in +golden capitals, in the centre. O Matthias Corvinus, thou wert surely the +EMPEROR of Book Collectors! + +BOOK OF BLAZONRY, or of ARMS. This is an enormous folio MS. full of +heraldic embellishments relating to the HOUSE of Austria. Among these +embellishments, the author of the text--who lived in the XVIth century, and +who was a very careful compiler--has preserved a genuine, original portrait +of LEOPOLD de SEMPACH, of the date of 1386. It is very rarely that you +observe portraits of this character, or form, introduced into MSS. of so +early a period. A nobler heraldic volume probably does not exist. It is +bound in wood, covered with red velvet; and the edges are gilt, over +coloured armorial ornaments. + +From _such_ a volume, the step is both natural and easy to ROMANCES. Sir +TRISTAN shall lead the way. Here are _three_ MSS. of the feats of that +Knight of the Round Table. The first is of the XIIIth century; written in +three columns, on a small thick gothic letter. It has some small, and +perfect illuminations. This MS. became the property of Prince Eugene. It +was taken to Paris, but restored: and has yet the French imperial eagle +stamped in red ink. It is indeed a "gloriously ponderous folio." + +A second MS. of the SAME ROMANCE is written in two columns, in a full short +gothic letter. It is very large, and the vellum is very perfect. The +illuminations, which are larger than those in the preceding MS. are +evidently of the early part of the xvth century. This book also belonged to +Prince Eugene. It is doubtless a precious volume. A third MS. executed in +pale ink, in a kind of secretary gothic letter, is probably of the latter +end of the XIVth century. The illuminations are only slightly tinted. + +BRUT D'ANGLETTERRE. I should apprehend this MS. to be of the early part of +the XIVth century. It is executed in a secretary gothic letter, in double +columns, and the ink is much faded in colour. It has but one illumination, +which is at the beginning, and much faded. This was also Prince Eugene's +copy; and was taken to Paris, but restored. + +The last, but perhaps the most valuable in general estimation, of the MSS. +examined by me, was the AUTOGRAPH of the GERUSALEMME LIBERATA, or, as +formerly called, CONQUISTATA,[116] of Tasso: upon which no accomplished +Italian can look but with feelings almost approaching to rapture. The MS. +is imperfect; beginning with the xxxth canto of the second book, and ending +with the LXth canto of the twenty-third book. + +The preceding will probably give you some little satisfaction respecting +the MSS. in this very precious collection. I proceed therefore immediately +to an account of the PRINTED BOOKS; premising that, after the accounts of +nearly similar volumes, described as being in the libraries previously +visited, you must not expect me to expatiate quite so copiously as upon +former occasions. I have divided the whole into four classes; namely, 1. +THEOLOGY; 2. CLASSICS; 3. MISCELLANEOUS, LATIN; (including Lexicography) 4. +ITALIAN; and 5. FRENCH and GERMAN, exclusively of Theology. I have also +taken the pains of arranging each class in alphabetical order; so that you +will consider what follows to be a very sober, and a sort of +bibliopolistic, catalogue. + + +THEOLOGY. + +AUGUSTINUS (Sts.) DE CIV. DEI. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery, 1467_. +Folio. A fine large copy; but not equal to that in the Royal Library at +Paris or in Lord Spencer's collection. I should think, however, that this +may rank as the third copy for size and condition. + +---- _Printed by Jenson._ + +1475. Folio. A very beautiful book, printed upon white and delicate VELLUM. +Many of the leaves have, however, a bad colour. I suspect this copy has +been a good deal cropt in the binding. + +AUGUSTINI S. EPISTOLAE. LIBRI XIII. CONFESSIONUM. 1475. Quarto. This volume +is printed in long lines, in a very slender roman type, which I do not just +now happen to remember to have seen before; and which _almost_ resembles +the delicacy of the types of the first _Horace_, and the _Florus_ and +_Lucan_--so often noticed: except that the letters are a little too round +in form. The present is a clean, sound copy; unbound. + +BIBLIA LATINA. This is the _Mazarine_ Edition; supposed to be the first +Bible ever printed. The present is far from being a fine copy; but +valuable, from possessing the four leaves of a Rubric which I was taught to +believe were peculiar to the copy at Munich.[117] + +BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Pfister_, folio, 3 volumes. I was told that the +copy here was upon vellum; but inaccurately. The present was supplied by +the late Mr. Edwards; but is not free from stain and writing. Yet, although +nothing comparable with the copy in the Royal Library at Paris, or with +that in St. James's Place, it is nevertheless a very desirable +acquisition--and is quite perfect. + +---- _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher._ 1462. + +Folio. 2 vols. UPON VELLUM. This was Colbert's copy, and is large, sound, +and desirable. + +---- _Printed by Mentelin._ Without Date. Perhaps the rarest of all Latin +Bibles; of which, however, there is a copy in the royal library at Paris, +and in the public libraries of Strasbourg and Munich. I should conjecture +its date to be somewhere about 1466.[118] The present is a clean and sound, +but much cropt copy. + +---- _Printed by Sweynhyem and Pannartz._ Folio. 1471-2, 2 vols. A +remarkably fine large copy, almost uncut: in modern russia binding. This +must form a portion of the impression by the same printers, with the +Commentary of De Lyra, in five folio volumes. + +BIBLIA LATINA; _Printed by Hailbrun_. 1476. Folio. Here are _two_ copies; +of which one is UPON VELLUM, and the other upon paper: both beautiful--but +the vellum copy is, I think, in every respect, as lovely a book as Lord +Spencer's similar copy. It measures eleven inches one sixteenth by seven +one eighth. It has, however, been bound in wretched taste, some fifty years +ago, and is a good deal cropt in the binding. The paper copy, in 2 vols. is +considerably larger. + +BIBLIA LATINA. _Printed by Jenson_. 1479. Folio. Here, again, are two +copies; one upon paper, the other UPON VELLUM. Of these, the vellum copy is +much damaged in the principal illumination, and is also cropt in the +binding. The paper copy can hardly be surpassed, if equalled. + +BIBLIA ITALICA. MALHERBI. _Printed in the month of October,_ 1471. Folio. 2 +vols. Perhaps one of the finest and largest copies in existence; measuring, +sixteen inches five eighths by eleven. It is bound (if I remember rightly) +in blue morocco. + +BIBLIA HEBRAICA. _Printed at Soncino_. 1488. Folio. FIRST EDITION OF THE +HEBREW BIBLE. Of all earliest impressions of the sacred text, this is +doubtless the MOST RARE. I am not sure that there are _two_ copies of it in +England or in France. In our own country, the Bodleian library alone +possesses it. This is a beautiful, clean copy, but cropt a little too much +in the binding. It has had a journey to _Paris_, and gained a coat of blue +morocco by the trip. The binder was Bozerain. This was the first time that +I had seen a copy of the FIRST HEBREW BIBLE. There was only one _other_ +feeling to be gratified:--that _such_ a copy were safely lodged in St. +James's Place. + +BIBLIA POLONICA. 1563. Folio. The Abbe Strattman, at Moelk, had apprised me +of the beauty and value of this copy--of one of the scarcest impressions of +the sacred text. This copy was, in fact, a PRESENTATION COPY to the Emperor +Maximilian II., from Prince Radzivil the Editor and Patron of the work. It +is rather beautifully white, for the book--which is usually of a very +sombre complexion. The leaves are rather tender. It is bound in red velvet; +but it is a pity they do not keep it in a case--as the back is wearing away +fast. Notwithstanding the Abbe Strattman concluded his account of this book +with the exclamation of--"Il n'y en a pas comme celui-la," I must be +allowed to say, that Lord Spencer may yet indulge in a strain of triumph... +on the possession of the copy, of this same work, which I secured for him +at Augsbourg;[119] and which is, to the full, as large, as sound, and in +every respect as genuine a book. + +JERONIMI STI. EPISTOLAE. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz._ 1468. Folio. 2 +vols. A magnificent and unique copy, UPON VELLUM. "There are ONLY SIX +VELLUM Sweynheyms and Pannartz in the world,"--said the Abbe Strattman to +me, in the library of the Monastery of Moelk. "Which be they?" replied I. +"They are these"--answered he ... "the _Caesar_, _Aulus Gellius_, and +_Apuleius_--ach the edit. prin.--of the date of 1469: and the _Epistles of +St Jerom_, of 1468--all which four books you will see at Vienna:--the +_Livy_, which Mr. Edwards bought; and the _Pliny_ of 1470, which is in the +library of Lord Spencer. These are the only known vellum Sweynheyms and +Pannartz." I looked at the volumes under consideration, therefore, with the +greater attention. They are doubtless noble productions; and this copy is, +upon the whole, fine and genuine. It is not, however, so richly ornamented, +nor is the vellum quite so white, as Lord Spencer's Pliny above mentioned. +Yet it is bound in quiet old brown calf, having formerly belonged to +Cardinal Bessarion, whose hand writing is on the fly leaf. It measures +fifteen inches three eighths, by eleven one sixteenth. + +LACTANTII OPERA. _Printed in the Soubiaco Monastery._ 1465. Folio. Here are +two copies of this earliest production of the Italian press. That which is +in blue morocco binding, is infinitely the worse of the two. The other, in +the original binding of wood, is, with the exception of Mr. Grenville's +copy, the finest which I have ever seen. This however is slightly stained, +by water, at top. + +---- _Printed at Rostock._ 1476. Folio. A copy UPON VELLUM--which I had +never seen before. The vellum is thin and beautiful, but this is not a +_comfortable_ book in respect to binding. A few leaves at the beginning are +stained. Upon the whole, however, it is a singularly rare and most +desirable volume.[120] + +MISSALE MOZARABICUM. 1500. Folio. First Edition. A book of exceedingly +great scarcity, and of which I have before endeavoured to give a pretty +full and correct history.[121] The present is a beautiful clean copy, bound +in blue morocco, apparently by De Seuil--from the red morocco lining +within: but this copy is not so large as the one in St. James's Place. The +MOZARABIC BREVIARY, its companion, which is bound in red morocco, has been +cruelly cropt. + +MISSALE HERBIPOLENSE. Folio: with the date of 1479 in the prefatory +admonition. This precious book is UPON VELLUM; and a more beautiful and +desirable volume can hardly be found. There is a copper-plate of +coat-armour, in outline, beneath the prefatory admonition; and M. Bartsch, +who was by the side of me when I was examining the book, referred me to his +_Peintre Graveur_, vol. x. p. 57. where this early copper-plate is noticed. + +PSALTERIUM. Latine. _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher._ 1457. Folio. EDITIO +PRINCEPS. If there be ONE book, more than another, which should induce an +ardent bibliographer to make a pilgrimage to Vienna, THIS is assuredly the +volume in question! And yet, although I could not refrain from doing, what +a score of admiring votaries had probably done before me--namely, bestowing +a sort of _oscular_ benediction upon the first leaf of the text--yet, I +say, it may be questionable whether this copy be as large and fair as that +in our Royal Collection!? Doubtless, however, this is a very fine and +almost invaluable copy of the FIRST BOOK printed with metal types, with a +date subjoined. You will give me credit for having asked for a sight of it, +the _very first thing_ on my entrance into the room where it is kept. It +is, however, preserved in rather a loose and shabby binding, and should +certainly be protected by every effort of the bibliopegistic art. The truth +is, as M. Kopitar told me, that every body--old and young, ignorant and +learned--asks for a sight of this marvellous volume; and it is, in +consequence, rarely kept in a state of quiescence one week throughout the +year: excepting during the holidays. + +PSALTERIUM. Latine. _Without Printer's name or Date._ _Folio._ This is +doubtless a magnificent book, printed in the gothic letter, in red and +black, with musical lines not filled up by notes. The text has services for +certain Saints days. What rendered this volume particularly interesting to +my eyes, was, that on the reverse of the first leaf, beneath two lines of +printed text, (in the smaller of two sizes of gothic letter) and two lines +of scored music in red, I observed an impression of the very same +copper-plate of coat-armour, which I had noticed in the Wurtzburg Missal of +1482, at Oxford, described in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. p. +30. Although M. Bartsch had noticed this copper-plate, in its outline +character, in the above previously described Wurtzburg Missal, he seemed to +be ignorant of its existence in this Psalter. The whole of this book is as +fresh as if it had just come from the press. + +TESTAMENTUM NOV. Bohemice. _Without Date._ Folio. This is probably one of +the very rarest impressions of the sacred text, in the XVth century, which +is known to exist. It is printed in the gothic type, in double columns, and +a full page contains thirty-six lines. There are running titles. The text, +at first glance, has much of the appearance of Baemler's printing at +Augsbourg; but it is smaller, and more angular. Why should not the book +have been printed in Bohemia? This is a very clean, desirable copy, in red +morocco binding. + +TURRECREMATA I. DE. In LIBRUM PSALMORUM. _Printed at Crause in Suabia._ +Folio. This, and the copy described as being in the Public Library at +Munich, are supposed to be the only known copies of this impression. Below +the colophon, in pencil, there is a date of 1475: but quaere upon what +authority? This copy is in most miserable condition; especially at the end. + + + + +ANCIENT CLASSICAL AUTHORS. + +AESOPUS. Gr. Quarto. EDITIO PRINCEPS. A sound and perfect copy: ruled. + +---- _Ital._ 1491. Quarto. In Italian poetry, by Manfred de Monteferrato. + +---- 1492. Quarto. In Italian prose, by the same. Of these two versions, +the Italian appears to be the same as that of the Verona impression of +1479: the cuts are precisely similar. The present is a very sound copy, but +evidently cropt. + +APULEIUS. 1469. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz._ Folio. Editio +Princeps. This copy is UPON VELLUM. It is tall and large, but not so fine +as is the following article: + +---- _Printed by Jenson._ 1472. Folio. A fine sound copy; in red morocco +binding. Formerly belonging to Prince Eugene. + +AULUS GELLIUS. 1469. Folio. Edit. Prin. This is without doubt one of the +very finest VELLUM copies of an old and valuable Classic in existence. +There are sometimes (as is always the case in the books from the earlier +Roman press) brown and yellow pages; but, upon the whole, this is a +wonderful and inestimable book. It is certainly unique, as being printed +upon vellum. Note well: the _Jerom, Apuleius_, and _Aulus Gellius_--with +one or two others, presently to be described--were Cardinal Bessarion's OWN +COPIES; and were taken from the library of St. Mark at Venice, by the +Austrians, in their memorable campaign in Italy. I own that there are +hardly any volumes in the Imperial Library at Vienna which interested me so +much as these VELLUM SWEYNHEYMS and PANNARTZ! + +AUSONIUS. 1472. Folio. Editio Princeps. The extreme rarity of this book is +well known. The present copy is severely cropt at top and bottom, but has a +good side marginal breadth. It has also been washed; but you are only +conscious of it by the scent of soap. + +CAESAR. 1469. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ Folio. Edit. Princeps. A +beautiful and unique copy--UPON VELLUM. This was formerly Prince Eugene's +copy; and I suspect it to be the same which is described in the _Bibl. +Hulziana_, vol. i. no. 3072--as it should seem to be quite settled that the +printers, Sweynheym and Pannartz, printed only _one_ copy of their +respective first editions upon vellum. It is however but too manifest that +this precious volume has been cropt in binding--which is in red morocco. + +---- 1472. _Printed by the same._ Folio. This also was Prince Eugene's +copy; and is much larger and finer than the preceding--on the score of +condition. + +CICERO DE OFFICIIS. 1465, Quarto. Here are _two_ copies: each UPON VELLUM. +One, in blue morocco, is short and small; but in very pretty condition. The +other is stained and written upon. It should be cast out. + +---- 1466. Quarto. UPON VELLUM. A beautiful copy, which measures very +nearly ten inches in height.[122] In all these copies, the title of the +"Paradoxes" is printed. + +CICERONIS. EPIST. FAM. 1467. Folio. Editio Princeps. Cardinal Bessarion's +own copy, and unquestionably THE FINEST THAT EXISTS. The leaves are white +and thick, and crackle aloud as you turn them over. It is upon paper, which +makes me think that there never was a copy upon vellum; for the Cardinal, +who was a great patron of Sweynheym and Pannartz, the printers, would +doubtless have possessed it in that condition. At the beginning, however, +it is slightly stained, and at the end slightly wormed. Yet is this copy, +in its primitive binding, finer than any which can well be imagined. The +curious are aware that this is supposed to have been the _first book +printed at Rome_; and that the blanks, left for the introduction of Greek +characters, prove that the printers were not in possession of the latter +when this book was published. The Cardinal has written two lines, partly in +Greek and partly in Latin, on the fly leaf. This copy measures eleven +inches three eighths by seven inches seven eighths. + +CICERO. RHETORICA VETUS. Printed by Jenson. When I had anticipated the +beauty of a VELLUM COPY of this book (in the _Bibl. Spencer._ vol. i. p. +349--here close at hand) I had not of course formed the idea of seeing such +a one HERE. This vellum copy is doubtless a lovely book; but the vellum is +discoloured in many places, and I suspect the copy has been cut down a +little. + +---- ORATIONES. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ 1471. Folio. A beautifully +white and genuine copy; but the first few leaves are rather soiled, and it +is slightly wormed towards the end. A _fairer_ Sweynheym and Pannartz is +rarely seen. + +---- OPERA OMNIA. 1498. Folio. 4 vols. A truly beautiful copy, bound in +red morocco; but it is not free from occasional ms. annotations, in red +ink, in the margins. It measures sixteen inches and three quarters in +height, by ten inches and three quarters in width. A fine and perfect copy +of this _First Edition of the Entire Works_ of Cicero, is obtained with +great difficulty. A nobler monument of typographical splendour the early +annals of the press cannot boast of. + +HOMERI OPERA OMNIA. Gr. 1488. Folio. Editio Princeps. A sound, clean copy, +formerly Prince Eugene's; but not comparable with many copies which I have +seen. + +BATRACHOMYOMACHIA. Gr. Without date or place. Quarto. Edit. Prin: executed +in red and black lines, alternately. This is a sound, clean, and beautiful +copy; perhaps a little cropt. In modern russia binding. + +JUVENALIS. Folio. _Printed by Ulric Han_, in his larger type. A cruelly +cropt copy, with a suspiciously ornamented title page. This once belonged +to Count Delci. + +JUVENALIS. _Printed by I. de Fivizano _. _Without date_. Folio. This is a +very rare edition, and has been but recently acquired. It contains +twenty-seven lines in a full page. There are neither numerals, signatures, +nor catchwords. On the sixty-ninth and last leaf, is the colophon. A sound +and desirable copy; though not free from soil. + +LUCIANI OPUSCULA QUAEDAM. Lat. _Printed by S. Bevilaquensis._ 1494. Quarto. +This is really one of the most covetable little volumes in the world. It is +a copy printed UPON VELLUM; with most beautiful illuminations, in the +purest Italian taste. Look--if ever you visit the Imperial Library--at the +last illumination, at the bottom of _o v_, recto. It is indescribably +elegant. But the binder should have been hung in chains. He has cut the +book to the very quick--so as almost to have entirely sliced away several +of the border decorations. + +OVIDII FASTI. _Printed by Azoguidi._ 1471. Folio. This is the whole of what +they possess of this wonderfully rare EDIT. PRIN. of Ovid, printed at +Bologna by the above printer:--and of this small portion the first leaf is +wanting. + +----, OPERA OMNIA, _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz_. 1471. Folio. 2 +vols. This is a clean, large copy; supplied from two old libraries. The +volumes are equally large, but the first is in the finer condition. + +----, EPISTOLAE et FASTI. I know nothing of the printer of this edition, +nor can I safely guess where it was printed. The Epistles begin on the +recto of _aa ii_ to _gg v_; the Fasti on A i to VV ix, including some few +other opuscula; of which my memorandum is misplaced. At the end, we read +the word FINIS. + +PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by I. de Spira_. 1469. Folio. Editio Princeps. We +have here the identical copy--printed UPON VELLUM--of which I remember to +have heard it said, that the Abbe Strattman, when he was at the head of +this library, declared, that whenever the French should approach Vienna, he +would march off with _this_ book under _one_ arm, and with the FIRST +Psalter under the other! This was heroically said; but whether such +declaration was ever _acted_ upon, is a point upon which the +bibliographical annals of that period are profoundly silent. To revert to +this membranaceous treasure. It is in one volume, beautifully white and +clean; but ("horresco referens;") it has been cruelly deprived of its +legitimate dimensions. In other words, it is a palpably cropt copy. The +very first glance of the illumination at the first page confirms this. In +other respects, also, it can bear no comparison with the VELLUM copy in the +Royal Library at Paris.[123] Yet is it a book ... for which I know more +than _one_ Roxburgher who would promptly put pen to paper and draw a check +for 300 guineas--to become its possessor. + +PLINIUS SENIOR. _Printed by Jenson._ 1472. Folio. Another early Pliny--UPON +VELLUM: very fine, undoubtedly; but somewhat cropt, as the encroachment +upon the arms, at the bottom of the first illuminated page, evidently +proves. The initial letters are coloured in that sober style of decoration, +which we frequently observe in the illuminated volumes of Sweynheym and +Pannartz; but they generally appear to have received some injury. Upon the +whole, I doubt if this copy be so fine as the similar copies, upon vellum, +in the libraries of the Duke of Devonshire and the late Sir M. M. Sykes. +This book is bound in the highly ornamented style of French binding of the +XVIIth century; and it measures almost sixteen inches one eighth, by ten +inches five eighths. + +PLINIUS. Italice. _Printed by Jenson._ 1476. Folio. A fine, large, pure, +crackling copy; in yellow morocco binding. It was Prince Eugene's copy; but +is yet inferior, in magnitude, to the copy at Paris.[124] + +SILIUS ITALICUS. _Printed by Laver._ 1471. Folio. The largest, soundest, +and cleanest copy of this very rare impression, which I remember to have +seen:--with the exception, perhaps, of that in the Bodleian Library. + +SUETONIUS. _Printed by S. and Pannartz._ 1470. Folio. Second Edition. A +fine, sound copy, yet somewhat cropt. The first page of the text has the +usual border printed ornament of the time of printing the book. This was +Prince Eugene's copy. + +SUIDAS, Gr. 1499. Folio. 2 vols. This editio princeps of Suidas is always, +when in tolerable condition, a wonderfully striking book: a masterpiece of +solid, laborious, and beautiful Greek printing. But the copy under +consideration--which is in its pristine boards, covered with black +leather--was LAMBECIUS'S OWN COPY, and has his autograph. It is, moreover, +one of the largest, fairest, and most genuine copies ever opened. + +TACITUS. _Printed by I. de Spira._ Folio. Edit. Prin. This is the whitest +and soundest copy, of this not very uncommon book, which I have seen. It +has however lost something of its proper dimensions by the cropping of the +binder. + +TERENTIUS. _Printed by Mentelin, without date._ Folio. Editio Princeps. Of +exceedingly great rarity. The present copy, which is in boards--but which +richly deserves a russia or morocco binding--is a very good, sound, and +desirable copy. + +VALERIUS MAXIMUS. _Printed by Schoeffher._ 1472. Fol. UPON VELLUM; a +charming, sound copy. This book is not very uncommon upon vellum. + +VIRGILIUS. _Printed by Mentelin._ _Without date._ Folio. Perhaps the rarest +of all the early Mentelin classics; and probably the second edition of the +author. The present is a beautiful, white, sound copy, and yet probably +somewhat cropt. It is in red morocco binding. Next to the very +extraordinary copy of this edition, in the possession of Mr. George +Hibbert, I should say that _this_ was the finest I had ever seen. + +---- _Printed by V. de Spira._ 1470. Folio. It is difficult to find a +thoroughly beautiful copy of this very rare book. The present is tolerably +fair and rather large, but I suspect washed. The beginning is brown, and +the end very brown. + +---- _Printed by the Same._ 1471. Folio. This copy is perhaps the most +beautiful in the world of the edition in question. It has the old ms. +signatures in the corner, which proves how important the preservation of +these _witnesses_ is to the confirmation of the size and genuineness of a +copy of an old book. No wonder the French got possession of this matchless +volume on their memorable visit to Vienna in 1805 or 1809. It was bound in +France, in red morocco, and is honestly bound. This is, in short, a perfect +book. + +---- _Printed by Jenson._ 1475. Folio. A very fine, crackling copy, in the +old wooden binding; but the beginning and end are somewhat stained. + + +MISCELLANEOUS LATIN.[125] + +AENEAS SYLVIUS DE DUOBUS AMANTIBUS. Without date. Quarto. This is the only +copy which I have seen, of probably what may be considered the FIRST +EDITION of this interesting work. It has twenty-three lines in a full page, +and is printed in the large and early roman type of _Gering_, _Crantz_, and +_Friburger_. Caesar and Stoll doubtless reprinted this edition. In the +whole, there are forty-four leaves. The present is a fair sound copy. + +ALEXANDER GALLUS: vulgo DE VILLA DEI: DOCTRINALE. _Without date._ Folio. +There are few books which I had so much wished to see as the present. The +bibliographers of the old school had a great notion of the typographical +antiquity of this _work_ if not of _this edition_ of it: but I have very +little hesitation, in the first place, of attributing it to the press of +_Vindelin de Spira_--and, in the second place, of assigning no higher +antiquity to it than that of the year 1471. It is however a book of some +intrinsic curiosity, and of unquestionably great rarity. I saw it here for +the first time. The present copy is a decidedly much-cropt folio; but in +most excellent condition. + +AQUINAS THOMAS. SECUNDA SECONDAE. _Printed by Schoeffher._ 1467. Folio. A +fine, large copy, printed UPON VELLUM: the vellum is rather too yellow; but +this is a magnificent book, and exceedingly rare in such a state. It is +bound in red morocco. + +---- OPUS QUARTISCRIPTUM. _Printed by Schoeffher._ 1469. Folio. We have +here another magnificent specimen of the early Mentz press, struck off UPON +VELLUM, and executed in the smallest gothic type of the printer. This is a +gloriously genuine copy; having the old pieces of vellum pasted to the +edges of the leaves, by way of facilitating the references to the body of +the text. There is a duplicate copy of this edition, upon paper, wanting +some of the earlier leaves, and which had formerly belonged to Prince +Eugene. It is, in other respects, fair and desirable. + +---- IN EVANG. MATTH. ET MARC. _Printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz._ 1470. +Folio. A fine, large, white, and crackling copy; but somewhat cut; and not +quite free from the usual foxy tint of the books executed by these earliest +Roman printers. + +BARTHOLUS. LECTURA. _Printed by V. de Spira._.1471, Folio. One of the +finest specimens imaginable of the press of V. de Spira. It is a thick +folio, executed in double columns. The first page of this copy is elegantly +illuminated with portraits, &c.; but the arms at bottom prove that some +portion of the margin has been cut away--even of this magnificent copy. At +the end--just before the date, and the four colophonic verses of the +printer--we read: "_Finis primi ptis lecture dni Bartoli super ffto nouo_." + +BELLOVACENSIS (P.) SPECULUM HISTORIALE, Folio. The four volumes in ONE!--of +eight inches in thickness, including the binding. The present copy of this +extraordinary performance of Peter de Beauvais is as pure and white as +possible. The type is a doubtful gothic letter: doubtful, as to the +assigning to it its proper printer. + +CATHOLICON. 1460. Folio. 2 vols. A tolerably fair good copy; in red morocco +binding. + +---- 1469. _Printed by Gunther Zeiner._ 2 vols. Folio. This copy is UPON +VELLUM, of a fair and sound quality. I suspect that it has been somewhat +diminished in size, and may not be larger than the similar copy at Goettwic +Monastery. In calf binding. + +DURANDUS. RAT. DIV. OFFIC. _Printed by Fust and Schoeffher._ 1459. Folio. +This book, which is always UPON VELLUM, was the Duke de La Valliere's copy. +It is the thinnest I ever saw, but it is quite perfect. The condition is +throughout sound, and the margins appear to retain all their pristine +amplitude. It is bound in morocco. + +FICHETI RHETORICA. _Printed by Gering_, &c. Quarto. This copy is UPON +VELLUM, not indifferently illuminated: but it has been cruelly cropt. + +LUDOLPHUS. DE TERRA SANCTA and ITINERE IHEROSO-LOMITANO. _Without date or +place._ Folio. I never saw this book, nor this work, before. The text +describes a journey to Jerusalem, undertaken by Ludolphus, between the +years 1336 and 1350. This preface is very interesting; but I have neither +time nor space for extracts. At the end: "_Finit feliciter libellus de +itinere ad terram sanctam, &_." This impression is printed in long lines, +and contains thirty-six leaves.[126] + +MAMMOTRECTUS. _Printed by Schoeffher._ 1470. Folio. Here are two copies; of +which one is UPON VELLUM--but the paper copy is not only a larger, but in +every respect a fairer and more desirable, book. The vellum copy has quite +a foggy aspect. + +NONIUS MARCELLUS. _Without name of printer or place._ 1471. Folio. This is +the first edition of the work with a date, but the printer is unknown. It +is executed in a superior style of typographical elegance; and the present +is as fine and white a copy of it as can possibly be possessed. I think it +even larger than the Goettwic copy. + +PETRARCHA. HISTORIA GRISELDIS. _Printed by G. Zeiner._ 1473. Folio. Whether +_this_ edition of the HISTORY OF PATIENT GRISEL, or that printed by Zel, +without date, be the earliest, I cannot pretend to say. This edition is +printed in the roman type, and perhaps is among the very earliest specimens +of the printer so executed. It is however a thin, round, and scraggy type. +The book is doubtless of extreme rarity. This copy was formerly Prince +Eugene's, and is bound in red morocco. + +PHALARIDIS EPISTOLAE. Lat. 1471. Quarto. This is the first time (if I +remember rightly) that the present edition has come under my notice. It is +doubtless of excessive rarity. The type is a remarkably delicate, round, +widely spread and roman letter. At the end is the colophon, in capital +letters. + +PHALARIDIS EPISTOLAE. _Printed by Ulric Han._ _Without date._ Folio. This is +among the rarest editions of the Latin version of the Epistles of Phalaris. +It is executed in the second, or ordinary roman type of Ulric Han. In the +whole there are thirty leaves; and I know not why this impression may not +be considered as the first, or at least the second, of the version in +question. + +POGGII FACETIAE. _Without name of Printer, Place, or Date._ Folio. It is for +the first time that I examine the present edition, which I should not +hesitate to pronounce the FIRST of the work in question. The types are +those which were used in the _Eusebian Monastery_ at Rome. A full page has +twenty-three lines. This is a sound, clean copy; in calf binding. + +PRISCIANUS. _Printed by V. de Spira._ 1470. Folio. Editio princeps. A +beautiful, large, white, and crackling copy, in the original wooden +binding. Is one word further necessary to say that a finer copy, upon +paper, cannot exist? + +PRISCIANUS. _Printed by Ulric Han._ Folio. With the metrical version of +_Dionysius de Situ Orbis_ at the end. This is a very rare book. The fount +of Greek letters clearly denotes it to come from a press at Rome, and that +press was assuredly Ulric Han's. This appears to have been Gaignat's copy, +and is sound and desirable, but not so fine as the copy of this edition in +the library of Goettwic Monastery. + +PTOLEMAEUS. Lat. _Printed at Bologna._ 1462. Folio. There can be no doubt of +this date being falsely put for 1472 or even 1482. But this is a rare book +to possess, with all the copper plates, which this copy has--and it is +moreover a fine copy. + +PTOLEMAEUS. _Printed by Buckinck._ 1478. Folio. Another fine and perfect +copy of a volume of considerable rarity, and interest to the curious in the +history of early engraving. + +TURRECREMATA I. de. MEDITATIONES. _Printed by Ulric Han._ 1467. Folio. This +wonderfully rare volume is justly shewn among the "great guns" of the +Imperial Library. It was deposited here by the late Mr. Edwards; and is +considered by some to be the _first book printed at Rome_, and is filled +with strange wood-cuts.[127] The text is uniformly in the large gothic +character of Ulric Han. The French were too sensible of the rarity and +value of this precious book, to suffer it to remain upon the shelves of the +Imperial library after their first triumphant visit to Vienna; and +accordingly it was carried off, among other book trophies, to Paris--from +whence it seems, naturally as it were, to have taken up its present +position. This is a very fine copy; bound in blue morocco, with the cuts +uncoloured. It measures thirteen inches and a quarter, by very nearly nine +and a quarter: being, what may be fairly called, almost its pristine +dimensions. Whenever you visit this library, ask to see, among the very +first books deserving of minute inspection, this copy of the Meditations of +John de Turrecremata: but, remember--_a yet finer_ copy is within three +stones-throw of Buckingham Palace! + +VALTURIUS DE RE MILITARI. 1472. Folio. Edit. Prin. A fine, clean copy; in +red morocco binding. Formerly, in the collection of Prince Eugene. Such a +hero, however, should have possessed it UPON VELLUM!--although, of the two +copies of this kind which I have seen, neither gave me the notion of a very +fine book. + + +BOOKS IN THE ITALIAN LANGUAGE. + +_Bella (La) Mono._ _Without name of Printer._ 1474. Quarto. This is the +first time of my inspecting the present volume; of which the printer is not +known--but, in all probability, the book was printed _at Venice_. It is +executed in a round, tall, roman letter. This is a cropt and soiled, but +upon the whole, a desirable copy: it is bound in red morocco, and was +formerly Prince Eugene's. + +_Berlinghieri._ _Geografia._ _Without Place or Date._ Folio. Prima +Edizione. It does the heart good to gaze upon such a copy of so estimable +and magnificent a production as the present. This book belonged to Prince +Eugene, and is bound in red morocco. It is quite perfect--with all the +copper-plate maps. + +_Boccaccio._ _Il Decamerone._ _Printed by Zarotus._ 1476. Folio. This is an +exceedingly rare edition of the Decameron. It is executed in the small and +elegantly formed gothic type of the printer, with which the Latin AEsop, of +the same date, in 4to, was printed. Notwithstanding this copy is of a very +brown hue, and most cruelly cut down--as the illuminated first page but too +decisively proves--it is yet a sound and desirable book. + +This is the only early edition, as far as I had an opportutunity of +ascertaining, which they appear to possess of the Decameron of Boccaccio. +Of the _Philocolo_, there is a folio edition of 1488; and of the _Nimphale_ +there is a sound and clean copy of a dateless edition, in 4to., without +name of place or printer, which ends thus--and which possibly may be among +the very earliest impressions of that work: + + Finito il nimphale di fiesole + che tracto damore. + +_Caterina da Bologna._ _Without Date or name of Printer._ Quarto. This is a +very small quarto volume of great rarity; concluding with some poetry, and +some particulars of the Life of the female Saint and author. It appears to +have wholly escaped Brunet. + + Incomezao alcune cose d'la uita d'la sopra + nominata beata Caterina. + +There are neither manuals, signatures, nor catchwords. This volume looks +like a production of the _Bologna_ or _Mantua_ press. I never saw another +copy of this curious little work. + +_Caterina da Siena Legendi di._ _Printed in the Monastery of St. James, at +Florence._ 1477. Quarto. This is the edition which Brunet very properly +pronounces to be "excessively rare." It is printed in double columns, in a +small, close, and scratchy gothic type. On the 158th and last leaf, is the +colophon. + +_Dante._ _Printed by Neumister._ 1472. Folio. PRIMA EDIZIONE. This copy is +ruled, but short, and in a somewhat tender condition. Although not a first +rate copy, it is nevertheless desirable; yet is this book but a secondary +typographical performance. The paper is always coarse in texture, and +sombre in tint. + +_Dante_. 1481. Folio. With the commentary of Landino. This is doubtless a +precious copy, inasmuch as it contains TWENTY COPPER-PLATE IMPRESSIONS, and +is withal in fair and sound condition. The fore-edge margin has been +however somewhat deprived of its original dimensions. + +_Decor Puellarum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. With the false date of 1461 +for 1471. This volume, which once gave rise to such elaborate +bibliographical disquisition, now ceases to have any extraordinary claims +upon the attention of the collector. It is nevertheless a _sine qua non_ in +a library with any pretension to early typographical curiosities. The +present copy is clean and tolerably large: bound by De Rome. + +_Fazio. Dita Mundi. Printed by L. Basiliensis_. 1474. Folio. Prima +Edizione. Of unquestionably great rarity; and unknown to the earlier +bibliographers. It is printed in double columns, with signatures, to _o_ in +eighths: _o_ has only four leaves. This copy has the signatures +considerably below the text, and they seem to have been a clumsy and +_posterior_ piece of workmanship. It has been recently bound in russia. + +_Frezzi. Il Quadriregio_. 1481. Folio. Prima Edizione. I have before +sufficiently expatiated upon the rarity of this impression. The present is +a large copy, but too much beaten in the binding. The first leaf is much +stained. A few of the others are also not free from the same defect. + +_Fulgosii Bapt. Anteros.: sive de Amore. Printed by L. Pachel. Milan_. +1496. On the reverse of the title, is a very singular wood-cut--where Death +is sitting upon a coffin, and a blinded Cupid stands leaning against a tree +before him: with a variety of other allegorical figures. The present is a +beautiful copy, in red morocco binding. + +_Gloria Mulierum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. This is another of the early +Jenson pieces which are coveted by the curious and of which a sufficiently +particular account has been already given to the public[128] This copy is +taller than that of the _Decor Puellarum_ (before described) but it is in +too tender a condition. + +_Legende Di Sancti per Nicolao di Manerbi, Printed by Jenson. Without +date_. Folio. It is just possible that you may not have forgotten a brief +mention of a copy of this very rare book in the Mazarine Library at +Paris,[129] That copy, although beautiful, was upon paper: the present is +UPON VELLUM--illuminated, very delicately in the margins, with figures of +divers Saints. I take the work to be an Italian version of the well known +LEGENDA SANCTORUM. The book is doubtless among the most beautiful from the +press of JENSON, who is noticed in the prefatory advertisement of Manerbi. + +_Luctus Christianorum. Printed by Jenson_. Quarto. Another of the early +pieces of Jenson's press; and probably of the date of 1471. The present is +a fair, nice copy; but has something of a foggy and suspicious aspect about +it. I suspect it to have been washed. + +_Monte Sancto di Dio_. 1477. Folio. The chief value of this book consists +in its having good impressions of the THREE COPPER PLATES. Of these, only +_one_ is in the present copy, which represents the Devil eating his victims +in the lake of Avernus, as given in the La Valliere copy. Yet the absence +of the two remaining plates, as it happens, constitutes the chief +attraction of this copy; for they are here supplied by two FAC-SIMILES, +presented to the Library by Leopold Duke of Tuscany, of the most +wonderfully perfect execution I ever saw. + +_Petrarcha. Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by V. de Spira._ 1470. Folio. Prima +Edizione. The last leaf of the table is unluckily manuscript; and the last +leaf but one of the text is smaller than the rest--which appear to have +been obtained, from another copy. In other respects, this is a large, +sound, and desirable copy. It belonged to Prince Eugene. + +_Petrarcha. Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by Zarotus._ 1473. Folio. This +edition (if the present copy of it be perfect) has no prefix of table or +biographical memorandum of Petrarch. A full page contains forty, and +sometimes forty-two lines. On the recto of the last leaf is the colophon. +This is a sound and clean, but apparently cropt copy; in old blue morocco +binding. + +_Petrarcha Sonetti e Trionfi. Printed by Jenson._ 1473. Folio. A sound and +desirable copy, in red morocco binding; formerly belonging to Prince +Eugene. + +----. _Comment. Borstii in Trionfi. Printed at Bologna._ 1475. Folio. Here +are two copies of this beautifully printed, and by no means common, book. +One of them belonged to Prince Eugene; and a glance upon the top corner ms. +pagination evidently proves it to have been cropt. It is in red morocco +binding. The other copy, bound in blue morocco, has the table inlaid; and +is desirable--although inferior to the preceding. + +_Poggio. Historia Fiorentina. Printed by I. de Rossi._ (Jacobus Rubeus) +1476. Folio. First edition of the Italian version. This copy is really a +great curiosity., The first seven books are printed _upon paper_ of a fine +tone and texture, and the leaves are absolutely _uncut_: a few leaves at +the beginning are soiled--especially the first; but the remainder are in +delightful preservation, and shew what an old book _ought_ to be. The +eighth book is entirely printed UPON VELLUM; and some of these vellum +leaves are perfectly enchanting. They are of the same size with the paper, +and _also uncut._ This volume has never been bound. I entreated M. Bartsch +to have it handsomely bound, but not to touch the fore edges. He consented +readily. + +_Regula Confitendi Peccata Sua._ 1473. Quarto. Of this book I never saw +another copy. The author is PICENUS, and the work is written throughout in +the Italian language. There are but seven leaves--executed in a letter +which resembles the typographical productions of Bologna and Mantua. + + * * * * * + +GERMAN, FRENCH, AND SPANISH BOOKS. + +_Bone Vie (Livre De);_ qui est appelee Madenie. _Printed by A. Neyret at +Chambery._ 1485. Folio. As far as signature 1 vj, the subject is prose: +afterwards commences the poetry--"appelle la somme de la vision Iehan du +pin." The colophon is on the reverse of the last leaf but one. A wood-cut +is on the last leaf. This small folio volume is printed in a tall, close, +and inelegant gothic type; reminding me much of the LIVRE DE CHASSE printed +at the same place, in 1486, and now in Lord Spencer's library.[130] + +_Chevalier (Le) Delibre._ 1488. Quarto. This book is filled with some very +neat wood cuts, and is printed in the gothic letter. The subject matter is +poetical. No name appears, but I suspect this edition to have been, printed +in the office of Verard. + +_Cite des Dames (Le Tresor de la)_--"sclon dame christine." Without Date. +Folio. A fine, tall, clean copy; UPON VELLUM. The printer seems in all +probability to have been _Verard_. In red morocco binding. + +_Coronica del Cid ruy Diaz._ _Printed at Seville._ _Without Date._ Quarto. +The preceding title is beneath a neat wood-cut of a man on horseback, +brandishing his sword; an old man, coming out of a gate, is beside him. The +signatures from _a_ to _i vj_, are in eights. On _f ij_ is a singular +wood-cut of a lion entering a room, where a man is apparently sleeping over +a chess-board, while two men are rising from the table: this cut is rudely +executed. On _i v_ is the colophon. This edition is executed in that +peculiarly rich and handsome style of printing, in a bold gothic letter, +which distinguishes the early annals of the Spanish press. The present +beautifully clean copy belonged to PRINCE EUGENE; but it has been severely +cropt. + +_Ein nuizlich buechlin_ das man nennet den Pilgrim das hat der wuerdig doctor +keyserperg zue Augspurg geprediget. Such is the title of this singular +tract, printed by _Lucas Zeisenmair_ at Augsbourg in 1498. Small 4to. It +has many clever and curious wood-cuts; and I do not remember, in any part +of Germany where I have travelled, to have seen another copy of it. + +_Fierbras._ _Printed by G. Le Roy._ 1486. Folio. This is a small folio, and +the third edition of the work. This copy is quite perfect; containing the +last leaf, on which is a large wood-cut. All the cuts here are coloured +after the fashion of the old times. This sound and desirable copy, in red +morocco binding, once graced the library of PRINCE EUGENE. + +_Iosephe._ _Printed by Verard._ 1492. Folio. "_Cy finist l'hystoire de +Josephus de la bataille Judaique, &c_." This is a noble folio volume; +printed in the large handsome type of Verard, abounding with wood cuts. It +is in red morocco binding. + +_Jouvencel (Le)._ _Printed by Verard_, 1497. Folio. This is a fine copy, +with coloured cuts, printed UPON VELLUM. It is badly bound. + +_Lancelot du Lac._ _Printed by Verard._ 1488. Folio. 2 vols. First Edition. +A fine clean copy, but somewhat cropt. It once belonged to PRINCE EUGENE, +and is bound in red morocco. + +---- _Printed by the Same._ 1496. Folio. 3 vols. UPON VELLUM. In fine old +red morocco binding, beautifully tooled. This copy measures fifteen inches +six-eighths in height, by ten inches five-eighths in width. + +_Les Deux Amans._ _Printed by Verard._ 1493. Quarto. The title is beneath +the large L, of which a fac-simile appears in the first vol. of my edition +of our _Typographical Antiquities_. The work is old French poetry. Verard's +device is on the last leaf. A copy of this book is, in all probability, in +a certain black-letter French-metrical cabinet in Portland Place. + +_Maguelone (La Belle)._ _Printed by Trepperel._ 1492. Quarto. The preceding +title is over Trepperel's device. The wood cuts in this edition have rather +unusual merit; especially that on the reverse of Ciiii. A very desirable +copy. + +_Marco Polo. Von Venedig des Grost Landtfarer. Germanice._ _Printed by +Creusner._ 1477. Folio. This is the FIRST EDITION of the Travels of MARCO +POLO; and I am not sure whether the present copy be not considered +unique.[131] A complete paginary and even lineal transcript of it was +obtained for Mr. Marsden's forth-coming translation of the work, into our +own language--under the superintendence of M. Kopitar. Its value, +therefore, may be appreciated accordingly. + +_Regnars (Les)_ "trauersant les perilleuses voyes des folles frances du +moede." _Printed by Verard._ _No Date._ 4to. This is a French metrical +version from the German of Sebastian Brandt. The present edition is printed +in the black letter, double columns, with wood cuts. This is a fair good +copy, bound in red morocco, and formerly belonging to Prince Eugene. + +_Tewrdannckh._ 1517. Folio. The Emperor Maximilian's OWN COPY!--of course +UPON VELLUM. The cuts are coloured. The Abbe Strattman had told me that I +should necessarily find this to be the largest and completest copy in +existence. It is very white and tall, measuring fifteen inches, by nine and +three quarters; and perhaps the largest known. Yet I suspect, from the +smooth glossy surface of the fore edge--in its recent and very common-place +binding, in russia--that the side margin was once broader.[132] The cuts +should not have been coloured, and the binding should haye been less +vulgar: Here is ANOTHER COPY, not quite so large, with the cuts +uncoloured.[133] + +_Tristran: chlr de la table ronde "nouellement Imprime a Paris_." Folio. +_Printed by Verard._ Without Date. This is a fine sound copy, in old +handsome calf binding. + +_Thucydide (L'hystoire de)._ _Printed by G. Gourmont._ Without Date. Folio. +The translator was Claude de Seyssel, when Bishop of Marseilles, and the +edition was printed at the command of Francis the First. It is executed in +the small, neat, secretary gothic type of Gourmont; whose name is at the +bottom of the title-page. This is a beautiful copy, struck off UPON VELLUM; +but it is much cut in the fore edge, and much choked in the back of the +binding, which is in red morocco. It belonged to PRINCE EUGENE. + + * * * * * + +Comparatively copious as may be the preceding list, I fear it will not +satisfy you unless I make some mention of _Block Books_, and inform +you whether, as you have long and justly supposed, there be not also a few +_Cartons_ in the Imperial Library. These two points will occupy very +little more of my time and attention. First then of _xylographical_ +productions--or of books supposed to have been printed by means of wooden +blocks. I shall begin with an unique article of this description. It is +called _Liber Regum, seu Vita Davidis_: a folio, of twenty leaves: printed +on one side only, but the leaves are here pasted together. Two leaves go to +a signature, and the signatures run from A to K. Each page has two wood +cuts, about twice as long as the text; or, rather, about one inch and three +quarters of the text doubled. The text is evidently xylographic. The ink is +of the usual pale, brown colour. This copy is coloured, of the time of the +publication of the book. It is in every respect in a fine and perfect state +of preservation. Here is the second, if not third edition, of the _Biblia +Pauperum_; the second edition of the _Apocalypse_; the same of the _History +of the Virgin_; and a coloured and cropt copy of _Hartlib's Book upon +Chiromancy_: so much is it cropt, that the name of _Schopff_, the supposed +printer, is half cut away. The preceding books are all clumsily bound in +modern russia binding. As some compensation, however, there is a fine bound +copy, in red morocco binding, of the Latin edition of the _Speculum Humanae +Salvationis_; and a very fine large copy, in blue morocco binding, of the +first edition of the _Ars Memorandi per Figuras_; which latter had belonged +to Prince Eugene. + +Of the CAXTONS, the list is more creditable; and indeed very much to be +commended: for, out of our own country, I question whether the united +strength of all the continental libraries could furnish a more copious +supply of the productions of our venerable first printer. I send you the +following account--just as the several articles happened to be taken down +for my inspection. _Chaucer's Book of Fame_: a neat, clean, perfect copy: +in modern russia binding. The _Mayster of Sentence_, &c. This is only a +portion of a work, although it is perfect of itself, as to signatures and +imprint. This copy, in modern russia binding, is much washed, and in a very +tender state. _Game of Chess_; second edition. In very tender condition: +bound in blue morocco, with pink lining. An exceedingly _doctored_ copy. +_Iason_: a cropt, and rather dirty copy: which formerly belonged to +Gulstone. It appears to be perfect; for Gulstone has observed in ms. "_This +book has 148 leaves, as I told them carefully. 'Tis very scarce and +valuable, and deserves an extraordinary good binding_." Below, is a note, +in French; apparently by Count Reviczky. _Godfrey of Boulogne_: a perfect, +large copy, in old red morocco (apparently Harleian) binding. On the fly +leaf, Count Reviczky has written a notice of the date and name of the +printer of the book. Opposite the autograph of _Ames_ (to whom this copy +once belonged) the old price of 16_l._ 16_s._ is inserted. On the first +page of the text, is the ancient autograph of _Henry Norreys_. This is +doubtless the most desirable Caxtonian volume in the collection. This +department of bibliography may be concluded by the mention of a sound and +desirable copy of the first edition of _Littleton's Tenures_ by _Lettou_ +and _Machlinia_, which had formerly belonged to Bayntun of Gray's Inn. +This, and most of the preceding articles, from the early English press, +were supplied to the Imperial library by the late Mr. Edwards. + +And now, my good friend, I hope to have fulfilled even your wishes +respecting the earlier and more curious book-treasures in the Imperial +Library. But I must candidly affirm, that, although _you_ may be satisfied, +it is not so with myself. More frequent visits, and less intrusion upon the +avocations of Messrs. BARTSCH and KOPITAR--who ought, during the whole +time, to have been inhaling the breezes of Baden,--would doubtless have +enabled me to render the preceding catalogue more copious and satisfactory; +but, whatever be its defects, either on the score of omission or +commission, it will at least have the merit of being the first, if not the +only, communication of its kind, which has been transmitted for British +perusal. To speak fairly, there is a prodigious quantity of lumber--in the +shape of books printed in the fifteenth century--in this Imperial Library, +which might be well disposed of for more precious literary productions. The +MSS. are doubtless, generally speaking, of great value; yet very far indeed +from being equal, either in number or in intrinsic worth, to those in the +Royal Library at Paris. It is also to be deeply regretted, that, both of +these MSS. and printed books--with the exception of the ponderous and +digressive work of Lambecius upon the former,--there should be NO printed +_catalogue raisonne_. But I will hope that the "Saturnia regna" are about +to return; and that the love of bibliographical research, which now seems +generally, to pervade, the principal librarians of the public collections +upon the continent, will lead to the appearance of some solid and +satisfactory performance upon the subjects of which this letter has +treated. Fare you well. The post will depart in a few minutes, and I am +peremptorily summoned to the operatical ballet of _Der Berggeist_. + + +[109] [All this is profound matter, or secret history--(such as my friend + Mr. D'Israeli dearly loves) for future writers to comment upon.] + +[110] [Mons. Bartsch did NOT LIVE to peruse this humble record of his + worth. More of him in a subsequent note.] + +[111] [M. Payne now CEASES TO EXIST.] + +[112] My excellent friend M.A. DE BARTSCH has favoured me with the + following particulars relating to the Imperial Library. The building + was begun in 1723, and finished in 1735, by Joseph Emanuel, Baron de + Fischer, Architect of the Court: the same who built the beautiful + church of St. Charles Borromeo, in the suburbs. The Library is 246 + German feet in length, by 62 in width: the oval dome, running at right + angles, and forming something like transepts, is 93 feet long, and 93 + feet high, by 57 wide. The fresco-paintings, with which the ceiling of + the dome in particular is profusely covered, were executed by Daniel + Gran. The number of the books is supposed to amount to 300,000 + volumes: of which 8000 were printed in the XVth. century, and 750 are + atlas folios filled with engravings. These 750 volumes contain about + 180,000 prints; of which the pecuniary value, according to the + computation of the day, cannot be less than 3,300,000 "florins argent + de convention"--according to a valuation (says M. Bartsch) which I + made last year. This may amount to L300,000. of our money. I apprehend + there is nothing in Europe to be put in competition with such a + collection. + +[113] The reader may not be displeased to consult, for one moment, the + _Bibliog. Decameron_; vol. i. pp. xliii. iv. + +[114] [A sad tale is connected with the procuring of a copy, or fac-simile, + of the initial letter in question. I was most anxious to possess a + _coloured_ fac-simile of it; and had authorised M. Bartsch to + obtain it at _almost_ any price. He stipulated (I think with M. + Fendi) to obtain it for L10. sterling; and the fac-simile was executed + in all respects worthy of the reputation of the artist, and to afford + M. Bartsch the most unqualified satisfaction. It was dispatched to me + by permission of the Ambassador, in the Messenger's bag of + dispatches:--but it NEVER reached me. Meanwhile my worthy friend M. + Bartsch became impatient and almost angry at the delay; and the artist + naturally wondered at the tardiness of payment. Something like + _suspicion_ had began to take possession of my friend's + mind--when the fact was disclosed to him ... and his sorrow and + vexation were unbounded. The money was duly remitted and received; but + "the valuable consideration" was never enjoyed by the too enthusiastic + traveller. This beautiful copy has doubtless perished from accident.] + +[115] Vol. ii. p. 458. + +[116] Tasso, in fact, retouched and almost remodelled his poem, under the + title of _Jerusalem Conquered_, and published it under that of + Jerusalem Delivered. See upon these alterations and corrections, + Brunet, _Manuel du Libraire_, vol. iii. p. 298. edit. 1814; + _Haym Bibl._ Ital. vol. ii. p. 28. edit. 1808; and particularly + Ginguene _Hist. Lit. d'Italie,_ vol. v. p. 504. + +[117] See p. 139, ante. + +[118] Lord Spencer has now obtained a copy of it--as may be seen in _AEdes + Althorpianae_, vol. ii. pp. 39-40, where a facsimile of the type is + given. + +[119] See pages 98, 103, 228, 239, ante. His Lordship's first copy of the + POLISH PROTESTANT BIBLE had been obtained from three imperfect copies + at VIENNA; for which I have understood that nearly a hundred guineas + were paid. The Augsbourg copy now supplies the place of the previous + one; which latter, I learn, is in the Bodleian library, at Oxford. + +[120] A particular account of this edition will be found in the _Bibl. + Spencer._ vol. iv. page 522. + +[121] See the _Bibl. Spencer._; vol. i. page 135-144. + +[122] It is singular enough that the Curators of this Library, some twenty + years ago, threw out PRINCE EUGENE'S copy of the above edition, as a + duplicate--which happened to be somewhat larger and finer. This latter + copy, bound in red morocco, with the arms of the Prince on the sides, + now graces the shelves of Lord Spencer's Library. See _Bibl. + Spenceriana_, vol. i. p. 305, 7. + +[123] See vol. ii. p. 120. + +[124] See vol. ii. p: 120. + +[125] Including LEXICOGRAPHY. + +[126] A copy of this edition (printed in all probability by Fyner of + Eislingen) was sold at the sale of Mr. Hibbert's library for L8. 12s. + +[127] [Of which, specimens appear in the _AEdes Althorpianae_, vol. ii. + p. 273, &c. from the copy in Lord Spencer's collection--a copy, which + may be pronounced to be the FINEST KNOWN copy in the world!] + +[128] _Bibl. Spenceriana_; vol. iv. p. 121. + +[129] Vol. ii. p. 191. + +[130] This book is fully described, with numerous fac-similes of the + wood-cuts, in the AEdes' Althorpianae, vol. ii. p. 204-213. + +[131] Since the above was written, Lord Spencer has obtained a very fine + and perfect copy of it, through Messrs. Payne and Foss: which copy + will be found fully described, with a fac-simile of a supposed + whole-length portrait of MARCO POLO, in the _AEdes Althorpianae_, vol. + ii. p. 176. + +[132] I think I remember to have seen, at Messrs. Payne and Foss's, the + finest copy of this book in England. It was upon vellum, in the + original binding, and measured fourteen inches three quarters by nine + and a half. Unluckily, it wanted the whole of the table at the end. + See the _Bibliog. Decameron_, vol. i. p. 202. [Recently, my + neighbour and especial good friend Sir F. Freeling, Bart. has + fortunately come into the possession of a most beautifully fair and + perfect copy of this resplendent volume.] + +[133] While upon the subject of this book, it may not be immaterial to add, + that I saw the ORIGINAL PAINTINGS from which the large wood blocks + were taken for the well known work entitled "the _Triumphs of the + Emperor Maximilian_" in large folio. These paintings are in water + colours, upon rolls of vellum, very fresh--and rather gaudily + executed. They do not convey any high notion of art, and I own that I + greatly prefer the blocks (of which I saw several) to the original + paintings. These were the blocks which our friend Mr. Douce entreated + Mr. Edwards to examine when he came to Vienna, and with these he + printed the well-known edition of the Triumphs, of the date of 1794. + + + + +LETTER XI. + + +POPULATION. STREETS AND FOUNTAINS. CHURCHES. CONVENTS. PALACES. THEATRES. +THE PRATER. THE EMPEROR'S PRIVATE LIBRARY. COLLECTION OF DUKE ALBERT. +SUBURBS. MONASTERY OF CLOSTERNEUBURG. DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA. + + +_Vienna, September_ 18, 1818. + +My dear friend; + + +"Extremum hunc--mihi concede laborem." In other words, I shall trouble you +for the last time with an epistle from the Austrian territories: at any +rate, with the last communication from the capital of the empire. Since my +preceding letter, I have stirred a good deal abroad: even from breakfast +until a late dinner hour. By the aid of a bright sky, and a brighter moon, +I have also visited public places of entertainment; for, having completed +my researches at the library, I was resolved to devote the mornings to +society and sights out of doors. I have also made a pleasant day's trip to +the MONASTERY of CLOSTERNEUBURG--about nine English miles from hence; and +have been led into temptation by the sight of some half dozen folios of a +yet more exquisite condition than almost any thing previously beheld. I +have even bought sundry tomes, of monks with long bushy beards, in a +monastery in the suburbs, called the ROSSAU; and might, if I had pleased, +have purchased their whole library--covered with the dust and cobwebs of at +least a couple of centuries. + +As, in all previous letters, when arrived at a new capital, I must begin +the present by giving you some account of the population, buildings, public +sights, and national character of the place in which I have now tarried for +the last three weeks; and which--as I think I observed at the conclusion of +my _first_ letter from hence--was more characteristic of English fashions +and appearances than any thing before witnessed by me ... even since my +landing at Dieppe. The CITY of VIENNA may contain a population of 60,000 +souls; but its SUBURBS, which are _thirty-three_ in number, and I believe +the largest in Europe, contain full _three times_ that number of +inhabitants.[134] This estimate has been furnished me by M. Bartsch, +according to the census taken in 1815. Vienna itself contains 7150 houses; +123 palaces; and 29 Catholic parishes; 17 convents, of which three are +filled by _Religieuses_; one Protestant church; one of the reformed +persuasion; two churches of the united Greek faith, and one of the Greek, +not united.[135] Of synagogues, I should think there must be a great +number; for even _Judaism_ seems, in this city, to be a thriving and +wealthy profession. Hebrew bibles and Hebrew almanacks are sufficiently +common. I bought a recent impression of the former, in five crown octavo +volumes, neatly bound in sheep skin, for about seven shillings of our +money; and an atlas folio sheet of the latter for a penny. You meet with +Jews every where: itinerant and stationary. The former, who seem to be half +Jew and half Turk, are great frequenters of hotels, with boxes full of +trinkets and caskets. One of this class has regularly paid me a visit every +morning, pretending to have the genuine attar of roses and rich rubies to +dispose of. But these were not to my taste. I learnt, however, that this +man had recently married his daughter,--and boasted of having been able to +give her a dowry equal to 10,000l. of our money. He is short of stature, +with a strongly-expressive countenance, and a well-arranged turban--and +laughs unceasingly at whatever he says himself, or is said of him. + +As Vienna may be called the key of Italy, on the land side--or, speaking +less figuratively, the concentrating point where Greeks, Turks, Jews, and +Italians meet for the arrangement of their mercantile affairs throughout +the continent of Europe--it will necessarily follow that you see a great +number of individuals belonging to the respective countries from whence +they migrate. Accordingly, you are constantly struck with the number and +variety of characters, of this class, which you meet from about the hour of +three till five. Short clokes, edged with sable or ermine, and delicately +trimmed mustachios, with the throat exposed, mark the courteous Greek and +Albanian. Long robes, trimmed with tarnished silver or gold, with thickly +folded girdles and turbans, and beards of unrestrained growth, point out +the majestic Turk. The olive-tinted visage, with a full, keen, black eye, +and a costume half Greek and half Turkish, distinguish the citizen of +Venice or Verona. Most of these carry pipes, of a varying length, from +which volumes of fragrant smoke occasionally issue; but the exercise of +smoking is generally made subservient to that of talking: while the loud +laugh, or reirated reply, or, emphatic asseveration, of certain individuals +in the passing throng, adds much to the general interest of the scene. + +Smoking, however, is a most decidedly general characteristic of the place. +Two shops out of six in some streets are filled with pipes, of which the +_bowls_ exhibit specimens of the most curious and costly workmanship. The +handles are generally short. A good Austrian thinks he can never pay too +much for a good pipe; and the upper classes of society sometimes expend +great sums in the acquisition of these objects of comfort or fashion. It +was only the other evening, when, in company with my friends Messrs. G. and +S., and Madame la Comtesse de------a gentleman drew forth from his pocket a +short pipe, which screwed together in three divisions, and of which the +upper part of the bowl--(made in the fashion of a black-a-moor's head) near +the aperture--was composed of diamonds of great lustre and value. Upon +enquiry, I found that this pipe was worth about 1000l. of our money!--and +what surprised me yet more, was, the cool and unconcerned manner in which +the owner pulled it out of a loose great-coat pocket--as if it had been a +tobacco box not worth half a dozen kreutzers! Such is their love of smoking +here, that, in one of their most frequented coffee-houses--where I went +after dinner for a cup of coffee--the centre of the room was occupied by +two billiard tables, which were surrounded by lookers on:--from the mouths +of every one of whom, including even the players themselves, issued +constant and pungent puffs of smoke, so as to fill the whole room with a +dense cloud, which caused me instantly to retreat... as if grazed by a +musket ball. + +Of female society I can absolutely say little or nothing. The upper circles +of society are all broken up for the gaieties of Baden. Yet, at the opera, +at the Prater, and in the streets, I should say that the general appearance +and manners of the females are very interesting; strongly resembling, in +the former respect, those of our own country. In the streets, and in the +shops, the women wear their own hair, which is generally of a light brown +colour, apparently well brushed and combed, platted and twisted into +graceful forms. In complexion, they are generally fair, with blue eyes; and +in stature they are usually short and stout. The men are, I think, every +where good-natured, obliging, and extremely anxious to pay you every +attention of which you stand in need. If I could but speak the language +fluently, I should quickly fancy myself in England. The French language +here is less useful than the Italian, in making yourself understood. + +So much for the living, or active life. Let me now direct your attention to +inanimate objects; and these will readily strike you as relating to +_Buildings_--in their varied characters of houses, churches and palaces. +First, of the STREETS. I told you, a little before, that there are upwards +of one hundred and twenty palaces, so called, in Vienna; but the truth is, +almost every street may be said to be filled with palaces: so large and +lofty are the houses of which they are usually composed. Sometimes a +street, of a tolerable length, will contain only a dozen houses--as, for +instance, that of the _Wallnerstrasse:_ at the further end of which, to the +right, lives Mr.------ the second banker (Count Fries being the first) in +Vienna. Some of the banking-houses have quite the air of noblemen's +chateaux. It is true, that these houses, like our Inns of Court, are +inhabited by different families; yet the external appearance, being +uniform, and frequently highly decorated, have an exceedingly picturesque +appearance. The architectural ornaments, over the doors and windows--so +miserably wanting in our principal streets and squares, and of which the +absence gives to Portland Place the look, at a distance, of a range of +barracks--are here, yet more than at Augsbourg or Munich, boldly and +sometimes beautifully managed. The _Palace of Prince Eugene_[136] in the +street in which I reside, and which no Englishman ought to gaze at without +emotions of pleasure--is highly illustrative of the justice of the +foregoing remark. This palace is now converted into the _Mint_. The +door-ways and window-frames are, generally, throughout the streets of +Vienna, of a bold and pleasing architectural character. From one till +three, the usual hour of dining, the streets of Vienna are stripped of +their full complement of population; but from three till six; at the latter +of which hours the plays and opera begin, there is a numerous and animated +population. Notwithstanding the season of the year, the days have been +sometimes even sultry; while over head has constantly appeared one of the +bluest and brightest skies ever viewed by human eyes. + +Among the most pleasing accompaniments or characteristics of street +scenery, at Vienna, are the FOUNTAINS. They are very different from those +at Paris; exhibiting more representations of the human figure, and less +water. In the _Place_, before mentioned, is probably the most lofty and +elaborate of these sculptured accompaniments of a fountain: but, in a sort +of square called the _New Market_, and through which I regularly passed in +my way to the Imperial Library--there is a fountain of a particularly +pleasing, and, to my eye, tasteful cast of character; executed, I think, by +DONNER. A large circular cistern receives the water, which is constantly +flowing into it, from some one or the other of the surrounding male and +female figures, of the size of life. One of these male figures, naked, is +leaning over the side of the cistern, about to strike a fish, or some +aquatic monster, with a harpoon or dart--while one of his legs (I think it +is the right) is thrown back with a strong muscular expression, resting +upon the earth--as if to balance the figure, thus leaning forward--thereby +giving it an exceedingly natural and characteristic air. Upon the whole, +although I am not sure that any _one_ fountain, of the character just +mentioned, may equal that in the High Street at Augsbourg, yet, taken +collectively, I should say that Vienna has reason to claim its equality +with any other city in Europe, on the score of this most picturesque, and +frequently salutary, accompaniment of street scenery. In our own country, +which has the amplest means of any other in the world, of carrying these +objects of public taste into execution, there seems to be an +infatuation--amounting to hopeless stupidity--respecting the uniform +exclusion of them. + +While I am on these desultory topics, let me say a word or two respecting +the _quoi vivre_ in this metropolis. There are few or no _restaurateurs_: +at least, at this moment, only two of especial note.[137] I have dined at +each--and very much prefer the vin du Pays, of the better sort [138]--which +is red, and called _vin d'Offner_ (or some such name) to that at Paris. But +the _meats_, are less choice and less curiously cooked; and I must say that +the sense of smelling is not very acute with the Germans. The mutton can +only be attacked by teeth of the firmest setting. The beef is always +preferable in a stewed or boiled state; although at our Ambassador's table, +the other day, I saw and partook of a roasted sirloin which would have done +honour to either tavern in Bishopsgate-street. The veal is the _safest_ +article to attack. The pastry is upon the whole relishing and good. The +bread is in every respect the most nutritive and digestive which I have +ever partaken of. The _fruit_, at this moment, is perfectly delicious, +especially, the pears. Peaches and grapes are abundant in the streets, and +exceedingly reasonable in price. Last Sunday, we dined at the palace of +_Schoenbrunn;_ or rather, in the suite of apartments, which were formerly +servant's offices,--but which are now fitted up in a very tasteful and gay +manner, for the reception of Sunday visitors: it being one of the principal +fashionable places of resort on the Sabbath. We had a half boiled and half +stewed fowl, beefsteak, and fritters, for dinner. The, beef was perfectly +uneatable, as being entirely _gone_--but the other dishes were good and +well served. The dessert made amends for all previous grievances. It +consisted of peaches and grapes--just gathered from the imperial garden: +the Emperor allowing his old servants (who are the owners of the taverns, +and who gain a livelihood from Sunday visitors) to partake of this +privilege. The choicest table at Paris or at London could not boast of +finer specimens of the fruit in question. I may here add, that the +_slaughter-houses_ are all in the suburbs--or, at any rate, without the +ramparts. This is a good regulation; but it is horribly disgusting, at +times, to observe carts going along, with the dead bodies of animals, +hanging down the sides, with their heads cut off. + +Of all cities in Europe, Vienna is probably the most distinguished for the +excellence of its CARRIAGES of every description--and especially for its +_Hackney Coaches._ I grant you, that there is nothing here comparable with +our London carriages, made on the nicest principles of art: whether for +springs, shape, interior accommodations, or luxury; but I am certain that, +for almost every species of carriage to be obtained at London, you may +purchase them _here_ at half the price. Satin linings of yellow, pink, and +blue, are very prevalent ... even in their hackney coaches. These latter, +are, in truth, most admirable, and of all shapes: landau, barouche, +phaeton, chariot, or roomy family coach. Glass of every description, at +Vienna--from the lustre that illuminates the Imperial Palace to that which +is used in the theatre--is excellent; so that you are sure to have plate +glass in your fiacre. The coachmen drive swiftly, and delight in +rectangular turns. They often come thundering down upon you unawares, and +as the streets are generally very narrow, it is difficult to secure a +retreat in good time. At the corners of the streets are large stone posts, +to protect the houses from the otherwise constant attrition from the +wheels. The streets are paved with large stones, and the noise of the +wheels, arising from the rapidity of their motion,--re-echoed by the height +of the houses, is no trifling trial to nervous strangers. + +Of the chief objects of architecture which decorate street scenery, there +are none, to my old-fashioned eyes, more attractive and more thoroughly +beautiful and interesting--from a thousand associations of ideas--than +PLACES OF WORSHIP--and of course, among these, none stands so eminently +conspicuous as the Mother-Church, or the CATHEDRAL, which, in this place, +is dedicated to _St. Stephen_. The spire has been long distinguished for +its elegance and height. Probably these are the most appropriate, if not +the only, epithets of commendation which can be applied to it. After +Strasbourg and Ulm, it appears a second-rate edifice. Not but what the +spire may even vie with that of the former, and the nave may be yet larger +than that of the latter: but, as a _whole_, it is much inferior to +either--even allowing for the palpable falling off in the nave of +Strasbourg cathedral. The spire, or tower--for it partakes of both +characters--is indeed worthy of general admiration. It is oddly situated, +being almost detached--and on the _south_ side of the building. Indeed the +whole structure has a very strange, and I may add capricious, if not +repulsive, appearance, as to its exterior. The western and eastern ends +have nothing deserving of distinct notice or commendation. The former has a +porch, which is called "_the Giant's porch_:" it should rather be +designated as that of the _Dwarf_. It has no pretensions to size or +striking character of any description. Some of the oldest parts of the +cathedral appear to belong to the porch of the eastern end. As you walk +round the church, you cannot fail to be struck with the great variety of +ancient, and to an Englishman, whimsical looking mural monuments, in basso +and alto relievos. Some of these are doubtless both interesting and +curious. + +But the spire[140] is indeed an object deserving of particular admiration. +It is next to that of Strasbourg in height; being 432 feet of Vienna +measurement. It may be said to begin to taper from the first stage or +floor; and is distinguished for its open and sometimes intricate fretwork. +About two-thirds of its height, just above the clock, and where the more +slender part of the spire commences, there is a gallery or platform, to +which the French quickly ascended, on their possession of Vienna, to +reconnoitre the surrounding country. The very summit of the spire is bent, +or inclined to the north; so much so, as to give the notion that the cap or +crown will fall in a short time. As to the period of the erection of this +spire, it is supposed to have been about the middle, or latter end, of the +fifteenth century. It has certainly much in common with the highly +ornamental gothic style of building in our own country, about the reign of +Henry the VIth. The coloured glazed tiles of the roof of the church are +very disagreeable and _unharmonising_. These colours are chiefly green, +red, and blue. Indeed the whole roof is exceedingly heavy and tasteless. I +will now conduct you to the interior. On entering, from the south-east +door, you observe, to the left, a small piece of white marble--which every +one touches, with the finger or thumb charged with holy water, on entering +or leaving the cathedral. Such have been the countless thousands of times +that this piece of marble has been so touched, that, purely, from such +friction, it has been worn nearly _half an inch_ below the general +surrounding surface. I have great doubts, however, if this mysterious piece +of masonry be as old as the walls of the church, (which may be of the +fourteenth century) which they pretend to say it is. + +The first view of the interior of this cathedral, seen even at the most +favourable moment--which is from about three till five o'clock--is far from +prepossing. Indeed, after what I had seen at Rouen, Paris, Strasboug, Ulm, +and Munich, it was a palpable disappointment. In the first place, there +seems to be no grand leading feature of simplicity: add to which, darkness +reigns every where. You look up, and discern no roof--not so much from its +extreme height, as from the absolute want of windows. Every thing not only +looks dreary, but is dingy and black--from the mere dirt and dust which +seem to have covered the great pillars of the nave--and especially the +figures and ornament upon it--for the last four centuries. This is the more +to be regretted, as the larger pillars are highly ornamented; having human +figures, of the size of life, beneath sharply pointed canopies, running up +the shafts. The extreme length of the cathedral is 342 feet of Vienna +measurement. The extreme width, between the tower and its opposite +extremity--or the transepts--is _222_ feet. + +There are comparatively few chapels; only four--but many _Bethstuecke_ or +_Prie-Dieus_. Of the former, the chapels of _Savoy_ and _St. Eloy_ are the +chief: but the large sacristy is more extensive than either. On my first +entrance, whilst attentively examining the choir, I noticed--what was +really a very provoking, but probably not a very uncommon sight,--a maid +servant deliberately using a long broom in sweeping the pavement of the +high altar, at the moment when several very respectable people, of both +sexes, were kneeling upon the steps, occupied in prayer. But the devotion +of the people is incessant--all the day long,--and in all parts of the +cathedral. The little altars, or _Prie-Dieus,_ seem to be innumerable. +Yonder kneels an emaciated figure, before a yet more emaciated crucifix. It +is a female--bending down, as it were, to the very grave. She has hardly +strength to hold together her clasped hands, or to raise her downcast eye. +Yet she prays--earnestly, loudly, and from the heart. Near her, kneels a +group of her own sex: young, active, and ardent--as she _once_ was; and +even comely and beautiful ... as she _might_ have been. They evidently +belong to the more respectable classes of society--and are kneeling before +a framed and glazed picture of the Virgin and Child, of which the lower +part is absolutely smothered with flowers. There is a natural, and as it +were well-regulated, expression of piety among them, which bespeaks a +genuineness of feeling and of devotion. + +Meanwhile, service is going on in all parts of the cathedral. They are +singing here: they are praying there: and they are preaching in a third +place. But during the whole time, I never heard one single note of the +organ. I remember only the other Sunday morning--walking out beneath one of +the brightest blue skies that ever shone upon man--and entering the +cathedral about nine o'clock. A preacher was in the principal pulpit; while +a tolerably numerous congregation was gathered around him. He preached, of +course, in the German language, and used much action. As he became more and +more animated, he necessarily became warmer, and pulled off a black +cap--which, till then, he had kept upon his head: the zeal and piety of the +congregation at the same time seeming to increase with the accelerated +motions of the preacher. In other more retired parts, solitary devotees +were seen--silent, and absorbed in prayer. Among these, I shall not easily +forget the head and the physiognomical expression of one old man--who, +having been supported by crutches, which lay by the side of him--appeared +to have come for the last time to offer his orisons to heaven. The light +shone full upon his bald head and elevated countenance; which latter +indicated a genuineness of piety, and benevolence, of disposition, not to +be soured... even by the most-bitter of worldly disappointments! It seemed +as if the old man were taking leave of this life, in full confidence of the +rewards which await the righteous beyond the grave. Not a creature was near +him but myself;--when, on the completion of his devotions, finding that +those who had attended him thither were not at hand to lead him away--he +seemed to cast an asking eye of assistance upon me: nor did he look twice +before that assistance was granted. I helped to raise him up; but, ere he +could bring my hand in contact with his lips, to express his +thankfulness--his friends ... apparently his daughter, and two +grandchildren ... arrived--and receiving his benediction, quietly, +steadily, and securely, led him forth from the cathedral. No pencil ... no +pen ... can do justice to the entire effect of this touching picture. + +So much for the living. A word or two now for the dead. Of course this +latter alludes to the MONUMENTS of the more distinguished characters once +resident in and near the metropolis. Among these, doubtless the most +elaborate is that of the _Emperor Frederick III_.--in the florid gothic +style, surmounted by a tablet, filled with coat-armour, or heraldic +shields. Some of the mural monuments are very curious, and among them are +several of the early part of the sixteenth century--which represent the +chins and even mouths of females, entirely covered by drapery: such as is +even now to be seen ...and such as we saw on descending from the Vosges; +But among these monuments--both for absolute and relative antiquity--none +will appear to the curious eye of an antiquary so precious as that of the +head of the ARCHITECT of THE CATHEDRAL, whose name was _Pilgram._ This head +is twice seen--first, on the wall of the south side aisle, a good deal +above the spectator's eye, and therefore in a foreshortened manner--as the +following representation of it testifies;[141] + +[Illustration: S. Fresman.] + +The second representation of it is in one of the heads in the hexagonal +pulpit--in the nave, and in which the preacher was holding forth as before +mentioned. Some say that these heads represent one and the same person; but +I was told that they were designated for those of the _master_ and +_apprentice:_ the former being the apprentice, and the latter the master. + +The preceding may suffice for a description of this cathedral; in which, as +I before observed, there is a palpable want of simplicity and of breadth of +construction. The eye wanders over a large mass of building, without being +able to rest upon any thing either striking from its magnificence, or +delighting by its beauty and elaborate detail. The pillars which divide the +nave from the side aisles, are however excluded from this censure. There is +one thing--and a most lamentable instance of depraved taste it undoubtedly +is--which I must not omit mentioning. It relates to the representation of +our Saviour. Whether as a painting, or as a piece of sculpture, this sacred +figure is generally made most repulsive--even, in the cathedral. It is +meagre in form, wretched in physiognomical expression, and marked by +disgusting appearances of blood about the forehead and throat. In the +church of _St. Mary_, supposed to be the oldest in Vienna, as you enter the +south door, to the left, there is a whole length standing figure of +Christ--placed in an obscure niche--of which the part, immediately under +the chin, is covered with red paint, in disgusting imitation of blood: as +if the throat had been recently cut,--and patches of paint, to represent +drops of blood, are also seen upon the feet! + +In regard to other churches, that of _St. Mary_, supposed to be, in part, +as old as the XIIIth century, has one very great curiosity, decidedly +worthy of notice. It is a group on the outside, as you enter a door in a +passage or court--through which the whole population of Vienna should seem +to pass in the course of the day. This group, or subject, represents our +_Saviour's Agony in the garden of Gethsemane_: the favourite subject of +representation throughout Austria. In the foreground, the figure of Christ, +kneeling, is sufficiently conspicuous. Sometimes a handkerchief is placed +between the hands, and sometimes not. His disciples are asleep by the side +of him. In the middle ground, the soldiers, headed by Judas Iscariot, are +leaping over the fence, and entering the garden to seize him: in the back +ground, they are leading him away to Caiphas, and buffeting him in the +route. These latter groups are necessarily diminutive. The whole is cut in +stone--I should think about three centuries ago--and painted after the +life. As the people are constantly passing along, you observe, every now +and then, some devout citizen dropping upon his knee, and repeating a +hurried prayer before the figure of Christ. + +The _Church of the Augustins_ is near at hand; and the contents of _that_ +church are, to my taste and feelings, more precious than any of which +Vienna may boast. I allude to the famous monument erected to the memory of +the wife of the present venerable DUKE ALBERT OF SAXE TESCHEN. It is +considered to be the chef d'oeuvre of CANOVA; and with justice. The church +of the Augustins laying directly in my way to the Imperial Library, I think +I may safely say that I used, two mornings out of three, to enter it--on +purpose to renew my acquaintance with the monument in question. My +admiration increased upon every such renewal. Take it, all in all, I can +conceive nothing in art to go beyond it. It is alone worth a pilgrimage to +Vienna: nor will I from henceforth pine about what has perished from the +hand of Phidias or Praxiteles--it is sufficient that this monument +remains... from the chisel of CANOVA. + +I will describe it briefly, and criticise it with the same freedom which I +used towards the _Madonna_ of the same sculptor, in the collection of the +Marquis de Sommariva at Paris.[142] At the time of my viewing it, a little +after ten o'clock, the organ was generally playing--and a very fine chant +was usually being performed: rather soft, tender, and impressive--than loud +and overwhelming. I own that, by a thousand associations of ideas, (which +it were difficult to describe) this coincidence helped to give a more +solemn effect to the object before me. You enter a door, immediately +opposite to it--and no man of taste can view it, unexpectedly, for the +first time, without standing still ... the very moment it meets his eyes! +This monument, which is raised about four feet above the pavement, and is +encircled by small iron palisades--at a distance just sufficient to afford +every opportunity of looking correctly at each part of it--consists of +several figures, in procession, which are about to enter an opened door, at +the base of a pyramid of gray marble. Over the door is a medallion, in +profile, of the deceased... supported by an angel. To the right of the door +is a huge lion couchant, asleep. You look into the entrance ... and see +nothing ... but darkness: neither boundary nor termination being visible. +To the right, a young man--resting his arm upon the lion's mane, is looking +upwards, with an intensity of sorrowful expression. This figure is naked; +and represents the protecting genius of the afflicted husband. To the left +of the door, is the moving procession. One tall majestic female figure, +with dishevelled hair, and a fillet of gold round her brow, is walking with +a slow, measured step, embracing the urn which contains the ashes of the +deceased. Her head is bending down, as if her tears were mingling with the +contents of the urn. The drapery of this figure is most elaborate and +profuse, and decorated with wreaths of flowers. Two children--symbolical, I +suppose, of innocence and purity--walk by her side ... looking upwards, and +scattering flowers. In the rear, appear three figures, which are intended +to represent the charitable character of the deceased. Of these, two are +eminently conspicuous ... namely, an old man leaning upon the arm of a +young woman ... illustrative of the bounty and benevolence of the +Duchess:--and intended to represent her liberality and kind-heartedness, +equally in the protection of the old and feeble, as in that of the orphan +and helpless young. The figures are united, as it were, by a youthful +female, with a wreath of flowers; with which, indeed the ground is somewhat +profusely strewn: so as, to an eye uninitiated in ancient costume, to give +the subject rather a festive character. The whole is of the size of +life.[143] + +Such is the mere dry descriptive detail of this master-piece of the art of +CANOVA. I now come to a more close and critical survey of it; and will +first observe upon what appear to me to be the (perhaps venial) defects of +this magnificent monument. In the first place, I could have wished the +medallion of the duchess and the supporting angel--_elsewhere_. It is a +common-place, and indeed, here, an irrelevant ornament. The deceased has +passed into eternity. The apparently interminable excavation into which the +figures are about to move, helps to impress your mind with this idea. The +duchess is to be thought of ... or seen, in the mind's eye... as an +inhabitant of _another world_ ... and therefore not to be brought to your +recollection by a common-place representation of her countenance in +profile--as an inhabitant of _earth._ Besides, the chief female figure or +mourner, about to enter the vault, is carrying her ashes in an urn: and I +own it appears to me to be a little incongruous--or, at least, a little +defective in that pure classical taste which the sculptor unquestionably +possesses,--to put, what may be considered visible and invisible--or +tangible and intangible--representations of the _same_ person before you at +the _same_ time. If a representation of the figure of the duchess be +necessary, it should not be in the form of a medallion. The pyramidal +back-ground would doubtless have had a grander effect without it. + +The lion is also, to me, an objectionable subject. If allegory be +necessary, it should be pure, and not mixed. If a _human figure_, at one +end of the group, be considered a fit representation of benevolence ... the +notion or idea meant to be conveyed by a _lion_, at the other end, should +not be conveyed by the introduction of an animal. Nor is it at all +obvious--supposing an animal to be necessary--to understand why a lion, who +may be considered as placed there to guard the entrance of the pyramid, +should be represented _asleep?_ If he be sympathising with the general +sorrow, he should not be sleeping; for acute affliction rarely allows of +slumber. If his mere object be to guard the entrance, by sleeping he shews +himself to be unworthy of trust. In a word, allegory, always bad in itself, +should not be _mixed_; and we naturally ask what business lions and human +beings have together? Or, we suppose that the females in view have well +strung nerves to walk thus leisurely with a huge lion--even sleeping--in +front of them! + +The human figures are indeed delightful to contemplate. Perfect in form, in +attitude, and expression, they proclaim the powers of a consummate master. +A fastidious observer might indeed object to the bold, muscular strength of +the old man--as exhibited in his legs and arms--and as indicative of the +maturity, rather than of the approaching extinction, of life ... but what +sculptor, in the representation of such subjects, can resist the temptation +of displaying the biceps and gastrocnemian muscles? The countenances are +all exquisite: all full of nature and taste... with as little introduction, +as may be, of Grecian art. To my feelings, the figure of the young man--to +the right of the lion--is the most exquisitely perfect. His countenance is +indeed heavenly; and there is a play and harmony in the position and +demarcation of his limbs, infinitely beyond any thing which I can presume +to put in competition with it. In every point of view, in which I regarded +this figure, it gained upon my admiration; and on leaving the church, for +the last time, I said within myself--"if I have not seen the _Belvedere +Apollo_, I have again and again viewed the monument to the memory of the +_Duchess Albert of Saxe-Teschen_, by CANOVA... and I am satisfied to return +to England in consequence." + +From churches we will walk together to CONVENTS. Here are only two about +which I deem it necessary to give you any description; and these are, the +_Convent of the Capuchins_, near the new Market Place, and that of the +_Franciscans_, near the street in which I lodge. The former is tenanted by +long-bearded monks. On knocking at the outer gate, the door was opened by +an apparently middle-aged man, upon whose long silvery, and broad-spreading +beard, the light seemed to dart down with a surprisingly, picturesque +effect. Behind him was a dark cloister; or at least, a cloister very +partially illumined--along which two younger monks were pacing in full +costume. The person who opened the outward door proved to be the _porter_. +He might, from personal respectability, and amplitude of beard, have been +the _President_. On my servant's telling him our object was to view the +IMPERIAL TOMBS, which are placed in a vault in this monastery, he +disappeared; and we were addressed by a younger person, with a beard upon a +comparatively diminutive scale, and with the top of his hair very curiously +cut in a circular form. He professed his readiness to accompany us +immediately into the receptacle of departed imperial grandeur. He spoke +Latin with myself, and his vernacular tongue with the valet. I was soon +satisfied with the sepulchral spectacle. As a whole, it has a poor and even +disagreeable effect: if you except one or two tombs, such as those of +_Francis I_. Emperor of the Romans, and _Maria Theresa_--which latter is +the most elaborately ornamented of the whole: but it wants both space and +light to be seen effectually, and is moreover I submit, in too florid a +style of decoration. Like the generality of them, it is composed of bronze. +The tombs of the earlier Emperors of Germany lie in a long and gloomy +narrow recess--where little light penetrates, and where there is little +space for an accurate examination. I should call them rather +_coffin-shells_ than monuments. When I noticed the tomb of the Emperor +Joseph II. to my guide, he seemed hardly to vouchsafe a glance at it ... +adding, "yes, he is well known every where!" They rather consider him (from +the wholesale manner in which the monasteries and convents were converted +by him to civil purposes) as a sort of _softened-down Henry VIII_. Upon the +whole, the living interested me more than the dead ... in this gloomy +retirement ... notwithstanding these vaults are said to contain very little +short of fourscore tombs of departed Emperors and Monarchs. + +The MONASTERY OF THE FRANCISCANS is really an object worth visiting ... if +it be only to convince you of the comfort and happiness of ... _not_ being +a _Franciscan monk._ I went thither several times, and sauntered in the +cloisters of the quadrangle. An intelligent middle-aged woman--a sort of +housekeeper of the establishment--who conversed with me pretty fluently in +the French language, afforded me all the information which I was desirous +of possessing. She said she had nothing to do with the kitchen, or +dormitories of the monks. They cooked their own meat, and made their own +beds. You see these monks constantly walking about the streets, and even +entering the hotels. They live chiefly upon alms. They are usually +bare-headed, and bare-footed--with the exception of sandals. Their dress is +a thick brown cloak, with a cowl hanging behind in a peaked point: the +whole made of the coarsest materials. They have no beards--and yet, +altogether, they have a very squalid and dirty appearance. It was towards +eight o'clock, when I walked for the first time, in the cloisters; and +there viewed, amongst other mural decorations, an oil painting--in which +several of their order are represented as undergoing martyrdom--by hanging, +and severing their limbs. It was a horrid sight ... and yet the _living_ +was not very attractive. + +Although placed in the very heart of the metropolis of their country, this +Franciscan fraternity appears to be insensible of every comfort of society. +To their palate, nothing seems to be so sweet as the tainted morsel upon +the trencher--and to their ear, no sound more grateful than the melancholy +echo, from the tread of their own cloister. Every thing, which so much +pleased and gratified me in the great Austrian monasteries of +CHREMSMINSTER, ST. FLORIAN, MOLK, and GOTTWIC, would, in such an +atmosphere, and in such a tenement as the Franciscan monastery here, have +been chilled, decomposed, and converted into the very reverse of all former +and cheerful impressions. No walnut-tree shelved libraries: no tier upon +tier of clasp and knob-bound folios: no saloon, where the sides are +emblazoned by Salzburg marble; and no festive board, where the watchful +seneschal never allows the elongated glass to remain five minutes +unreplenished by Rhenish wine of the most exquisite flavour! None of these, +nor of any thing even remotely approximating to them, were to be witnessed, +or partaken of, in the dreary abode of monachism which I have just +described. + +You will be glad to quit such a comfortless residence; and I am equally +impatient with yourself to view more agreeable sights. Having visited the +tombs of departed royalty, let us now enter the abodes--or rather +PALACES--of _living_ imperial grandeur. I have already told you that +Vienna, on the first glance of the houses, looks like a city of palaces; +those buildings, which are professedly _palatial_, being indeed of a +glorious extent and magnificence. And yet--it seems strange to make the +remark ... will you believe me when I say, that, of the various palaces, or +large mansions visited by me, that of the EMPEROR is the least imposing--as +a whole? The front is very long and lofty; but it has a sort of +architectural tameness about it, which gives it rather the air of the +residence of the Lord Chamberlains than of their regal master. Yet the +_Saloon_, in this palace, must not be passed over in silence. It merits +indeed warm commendation. The roof, which is of an unusual height, is +supported by pillars in imitation of polished marble ... but why are they +not marble _itself_? The prevailing colour is white--perhaps to excess; but +the number and quality of the looking glasses, lustres, and chandeliers, +strike you as the most prominent features of this interior. I own that, for +pure, solid taste, I greatly preferred the never-to-be-forgotten saloon in +the monastery of St. Florian.[144] The rooms throughout the palaces are +rather comfortable than gorgeous--if we except the music and ball rooms. +Some scarlet velvet, of scarce and precious manufacture, struck me as +exceedingly beautiful in one of the principal drawing rooms. I saw here a +celebrated statue of a draped female, sitting, the workmanship of Canova. +It is worthy of the chisel of the master. As to paintings, there are none +worth description on the score of the old masters. Every thing of this kind +seems to be concentrated in the palace of the Belvedere. + +To the BELVEDERE PALACE, therefore, let us go. I visited it with Mr. +Lewis--taking our valet with us, immediately after breakfast--on one of the +finest and clearest-skied September mornings that ever shone above the head +of man. We had resolved to take the _Ambras_, or the LITTLE BELVEDERE, in +our way; and to have a good, long, and uninterrupted view of the wonders of +art--in a variety of departments. Both the little Belvedere and the large +Belvedere rise gradually above the suburbs; and the latter may be about a +mile and a half from the ramparts of the city. The _Ambras_ contains a +quantity of ancient horse and foot armour; brought thither from a chateau +of that name, near Inspruck, and built by the Emperor Charles V. Such a +collection of old armour--which had once equally graced and protected the +bodies of their wearers, among whom, the noblest names of which Germany can +boast may be enrolled--was infinitely gratifying to me. The sides of the +first room were quite embossed with suspended shields, cuirasses, and +breast-plates. The floor was almost filled by champions on horseback--yet +poising the spear, or holding it in the rest--yet _almost_ shaking their +angry plumes, and pricking the fiery sides of their coursers. Here rode +Maximilian--and there halted Charles his Son. Different suits of armour, +belonging to the same character, are studiously shewn you by the guide: +some of these are the foot, and some the horse, armour: some were worn in +fight--yet giving evidence of the mark of the bullet and battle axe: others +were the holiday suits of armour ... with which the knights marched in +procession, or tilted at the tournament. The workmanship of the full-dress +suits, in which a great deal of highly wrought gold ornament appears, is +sometimes really exquisite. + +The second, or long room, is more particularly appropriated to the foot or +infantry armour. In this studied display of much that is interesting from +antiquity, and splendid from absolute beauty and costliness, I was +particularly gratified by the sight of the armour which the Emperor +Maximilian wore as a foot-captain. The lower part, to defend the thighs, +consists of a puckered or plated steel-petticoat, sticking out at the +bottom of the folds, considerably beyond the upper part. It is very simple, +and of polished steel. A fine suit of armour--of black and gold--worn by an +Archbishop of Salzburg in the middle of the fifteenth century, had +particular claims upon my admiration. It was at once chaste and effective. +The mace was by the side of it. This room is also ornamented by trophies +taken from the Turks; such as bows, spears, battle-axes, and scymitars. In +short, the whole is full of interest and splendor. I ought to have seen the +ARSENAL--which I learn is of uncommon magnificence; and, although not so +curious on the score of antiquity, is yet not destitute of relics of the +old warriors of Germany. Among these, those which belonged to my old +bibliomaniacal friend Corvinus, King of Hungary, cut a conspicuous and very +respectable figure. I fear it will be now impracticable to see the Arsenal +as it ought to be seen. + +It is now approaching mid-day, and we are walking towards the terrace in +front of the GREAT BELVEDERE PALACE: built by the immortal EUGENE in the +year 1724, as a summer residence. Probably no spot could have been selected +with better judgment for the residence of a Prince--who wished to enjoy, +almost at the same moment, the charms of the country with the magnificence +of a city view... unclouded by the dense fumes which for ever envelope our +metropolis. It is in truth a glorious situation. Walking along its wide and +well cultivated terraces, you obtain the finest view imaginable of the city +of Vienna. Indeed it may be called a picturesque view. The spire of the +cathedral darts directly upwards, as it were, to the very heavens. The +ground before you, and in the distance, is gently undulating; and the +intermediate portion of the suburbs does not present any very offensive +protrusions. More in the distance, the windings of the Danube are seen; +with its various little islands, studded with hamlets and fishing huts, +lighted up by a sun of unusual radiance. Indeed the sky, above the whole of +this rich and civilized scene, was, at the time of our viewing it, almost +of a dazzling hue: so deep and vivid a tint we had never before beheld. +Behind the palace, in the distance, you observe a chain of mountains which +extends into Hungary. As to the building itself, I must say that it is +perfectly _palatial_; in its size, form, ornaments, and general effect. He +must be fastidious indeed, who could desire a nobler residence for the most +illustrious character in the kingdom! + +Among the treasures, which it contains, it is now high time to enter and to +look about us. Yet what am I attempting?--to be your _cicerone_ ... in +every apartment, covered with canvas or pannel, upon which colours of all +hues, are seen from the bottom to the top of the palace!? It cannot be. My +account, therefore, is necessarily a mere sketch. RUBENS, if any artist, +seems here to "rule and reign without control!" Two large rooms are filled +with his productions; besides several other pictures, by the same hand, +which are placed in different apartments. Here it is that you see verified +the truth of Sir Joshua's remark upon that wonderful artist: namely, that +his genius seems to expand with the size of his canvas. His pencil +absolutely riots here--in the most luxuriant manner--whether in the majesty +of an altarpiece, in the gaiety of a festive scene [145], or in the +sobriety of portrait-painting. His _Ignatius Loyola_ and _St. Francis +Xavier_--of the former class--each seventeen feet high, by nearly thirteen +wide--are stupendous productions ... in more senses than one. The latter +is, indeed, in my humble judgment, the most marvellous specimen of the +powers of the painter which I have ever seen... and you must remember that +both England and France are not without some of his most celebrated +productions--which I have frequently examined. + +In the _old German School_, the series is almost countless: and of the +greatest possible degree of interest and curiosity. Here are to be seen +_Wohlgemuths, Albert Durers,_ both the _Holbeins, Lucas Cranachs, +Ambergaus,_ and _Burgmairs_ of all sizes and degrees of merit. Among these +ancient specimens--which are placed in curious order, in the very upper +suite of apartments, and of which the back-grounds of several, in one solid +coat of gilt, lighten up the room like a golden sunset--you must not fail +to pay particular attention to a singularly curious old +subject--representing the _Life, Miracles, and Passion of our Saviour_, in +a series of one hundred and fifty-eight pictures--of which the largest is +nearly three feet square, and every other about fifteen inches by ten. +These subjects are painted upon eighty-six small pieces of wood; of which +seventy-two are contained in six folding cabinets, each cabinet holding +twelve subjects. In regard to _Teniers, Gerard Dow, Mieris, Wouvermann,_ +and _Cuyp_ ... you must look _at home_ for more exquisite specimens. This +collection contains, in the whole, not fewer than FIFTEEN HUNDRED +PAINTINGS: of which the greater portion consists of pictures of very large +dimensions. I could have lived here for a month; but could only move along +with the hurried step, and yet more hurrying eye, of an ordinary +visitor[146]. + +About three English miles from the Great Belvedere--or rather about the +same number of miles from Vienna, to the right, as you approach the +Capital--is the famous palace of SCHOeNBRUNN. This is a sort of +summer-residence of the Emperor; and it is here that his daughter, the +ex-Empress of France, and the young Bonaparte usually reside. The latter +never goes into Italy, when his mother, as Duchess of Parma, pays her +annual visit to her principality. At this moment her Son is at Baden, with +the court. It was in the Schoenbrunn palace that his father, on the conquest +of Vienna, used to take up his abode; rarely, venturing into the city. He +was surely safe enough here; as every chamber and every court yard was +filled by the elite of his guard--whether as officers or soldiers. It is a +most magnificent pile of building: a truly imperial residence--but neither +the furniture nor the objects of art, whether connected with sculpture or +painting, are deserving of any thing in the shape of a _catalogue +raisonne_. I saw the chamber where young Bonaparte frequently passes the +day; and brandished his flag staff, and beat upon his drum. He is a soldier +(as they tell me) every inch of him; and rides out, through the streets of +Vienna, in a carriage of state drawn by four or six horses, receiving the +_homages_ of the passing multitude. + +To return to the SCHOeNBRUNN PALACE. I have already told you that it is +vast, and capable of accommodating the largest retinue of courtiers. It is +of the _Gardens_ belonging to them, that I would now only wish to say a +word. These gardens are really worthy of the residence to which they are +attached. For what is called ornamental, formal, gardening--enriched by +shrubs of rarity, and trees of magnificence--enlivened by +fountains--adorned by sculpture--and diversified by vistos, lawns, and +walks--interspersed with grottos and artificial ruins--you can conceive +nothing upon a grander scale than these: while a menagerie in one place +(where I saw a large but miserably wasted elephant)--a flower garden in +another--a labyrinth in a third, and a solitude in a fourth place--each, in +its turn; equally beguiles the hour and the walk. They are the most +spacious gardens I ever witnessed. + +The preceding is all I can tell you, from actual observation, about the + +PALACES at Vienna. Those of the Noblesse, with the exception of that of +Duke Albert, I have not visited; as I learn that the families are from +home--and that the furniture is not arranged in the order in which one +could wish it to be for the purpose of inspection or admiration. But I must +not omit saying a word or two about the TREASURY--where the Court Jewels +and Regalia are kept and where curious clocks and watches, of early +Nuremburg manufacture, will not fail to strike and astonish the antiquary. +But there are other objects, of a yet more powerful attraction: +particularly a series of _crowns_ studded with gems and precious stones, +from the time of Maximilian downwards. If I remember rightly, they shewed +me here the crown which that famous Emperor himself wore. It is, +comparatively, plain, ponderous, and massive. Among the more modern regal +ornaments, I was shewn a precious diamond which fastened the cloak of the +Emperor or Empress (I really forget which) on the day of coronation. It is +large, oval-shaped, and, in particular points of view, seemed to flash a +dazzling radiance throughout the room. + +It was therefore with a _refreshing_ sort of delight that I turned from +"the wealth of either Ind" to feast upon a set of old china, upon which the +drawings are said to have been furnished by the pencil of Raffaelle. I +admit that this is a sort of _suspicious_ object of art: in other words, +that, if all the old china, _said_ to be ornamented by the pencil of +Raffaelle, were really the production of that great man, he could have done +nothing else but paint upon baked earth from his cradle to his grave--and +all the _oil paintings_ by him _must_ be spurious. The present, however, +having been presented by the Pope, may be safely allowed to be genuine. In +this suite of apartments--filled, from one extremity to the other, with all +that is gay, and gorgeous, and precious, appertaining to royalty--I was +particularly struck with the insignia of regality belonging to Bonaparte as +King of Rome. It was a crown, sceptre, and robe--of which the two former +were composed of metal, like brass--but of a form particularly chaste and +elegant. There is great facility of access afforded for a sight of these +valuable treasures, and I was surprised to find myself in a crowd of +visitors at the outer door, who, upon gaining entrance, rushed forward in a +sort of scrambling manner, and spread themselves in various directions +about the apartment. Upon seeing one of the guides, I took him aside, and +asked him in a quiet manner "what was done with all these treasures when +the French visited their capital?" He replied quickly, and emphatically, +"they were taken away, and safely lodged in the Emperor's Hungarian +dominions." + +You may remember that the conclusion of my last letter left me just about +to start to witness an entertainment called _Der Berggeist_, or the _Genius +of the Mountain;_ and that, in the opening of this letter, I almost made +boast of the gaiety of my evening amusements. In short, for a man fond of +music--and in the country of GLUCK, MOZART and HAYDN--_not_ to visit the +theatres, where a gratification of this sort, in all the perfection and +variety of its powers, is held forth, might be considered a sort of heresy +hardly to be pardoned. Accordingly, I have seen _Die Zauberfloete, Die +Hochzeit des Figaro_, and _Don Giovanni:_ the two former quite enchantingly +performed--but the latter greatly inferior to the representation of it at +our own Opera House. The band, although less numerous than ours, seems to +be perfect in every movement of the piece. You hear, throughout, a +precision, clearness, and brilliancy of touch--together with a facility of +execution, and fulness of instrumental tone--which almost impresses you +with the conviction that the performers were _born_ musicians. The +principal opera house, or rather that in which the principal singers are +engaged, is near the palace, and is called _Im Theater naechst dem +Kaernthnerthoc_. Here I saw the _Marriage of Figaro_ performed with great +spirit and eclat. A young lady, a new performer of the name, of _Wranizth_, +played Susannah in a style exquisitely naive and effective. She was one of +the most natural performers I ever saw; and her voice seemed to possess +equal sweetness and compass. She is a rising favourite, and full of +promise. Madame _Hoenig_ played Mazelline rather heavily, and sung +elaborately, but scientifically. The Germans are good natured creatures, +and always prefer commendation to censure. Hence the plaudits with which +these two rival syrens were received. + +The other, opera house, which is in the suburbs, and called +_Schauspielhause_, is by much the larger and more commodious place of +entertainment. I seized with avidity the first opportunity of seeing the +_Zauberfloete_ here, and here also I saw Don Giovanni: the former as +perfectly, in every respect, as the latter was inefficiently, performed. +But here I saw the marvellous ballet, or afterpiece, called _Die +Berggeist_; and I will tell you why I think it marvellous. It is entirely +performed by children of all ages--from three to sixteen--with the +exception of the venerable-bearded old gentleman, who is called the _Genius +of the Mountain_. The author of the piece or ballet "von herrn +Ballet-meister"--is _Friedrich Horschelt:_ who, if in such a department or +vocation in society a man may be said (and why should he not?) to "deserve +well of his country," is, I think, eminently entitled to that distinction. +The truth is, that, all the little rogues (I do not speak literally) whom +we saw before us upon the stage--and who amount to nearly one hundred and +twenty in number--were absolutely beggar-children, and the offspring of +beggars, or of the lowest possible classes in society. They earned a +livelihood by the craft of asking alms. Mr. Horschelt conceived the plan of +converting these hapless little vagabonds into members of some honest and +useful calling. He saw an active little match girl trip across the street, +and solicit alms in a very winning and even graceful manner--"that shall be +my _columbine_," said he:--and she was so. A young lad of a sturdy form, +and sluggish movement, is converted into a _clown_: a slim youth is made to +personate _harlequin_--and thus he forms and puts into action the different +characters of his entertainment... absolutely and exclusively out of the +very lowest orders of society. + +To witness what these metamorphosed little creatures perform, is really to +witness a miracle. Every thing they do is in consonance with a well-devised +and well-executed plot. The whole is in harmony. They perform characters of +different classes; sometimes allegorical, as praeternatural +beings--sometimes real, as rustics at one moment, and courtiers at +another--but whether as fairies, or attendants upon goddesses--and whether +the dance be formal or frolicksome--whether in groups of many, or in a pas +de deux, or pas seul--they perform with surprising accuracy and effect. The +principal performer, who had really been the little match girl above +described, and who might have just turned her sixteenth year--would not +have disgraced the boards of the Paris opera--at a moment, even, when +Albert and Bigotini were engaged upon them. I never witnessed any thing +more brilliant and more perfect than she was in all her evolutions and +pirouettes. Nor are the lads behind hand in mettle and vigorous movement. +One boy, about fourteen, almost divided the plaudits of the house with the +fair nymph just mentioned--who, during the evening, had equally shone as a +goddess, a queen, a fairy, and a columbine. The emperor of Austria, who is +an excellent good man--and has really the moral welfare of his people at +heart--was at first a little fearful about the _effect_ of this early +metamorphosis of his subjects into actors and actresses; but he learnt, +upon careful enquiry, that these children, when placed out in the world--as +they generally are before seventeen, unless they absolutely prefer the +profession in which they have been engaged--generally turn out to be worthy +and good members of society. Their salaries are fixed and moderate, and +thus superfluous wealth does not lead them into temptation. + +On the conclusion of the preceding piece, the stage was entirely filled by +the whole juvenile _Corps Dramatique_--perhaps amounting to about one +hundred and twenty in number. They were divided into classes, according to +size, dress, and talent. After a succession of rapid evolutions, the whole +group moved gently to the sound of soft music, while masses of purple +tinted clouds descended, and alighted about them. Some were received into +the clouds--which were then lifted up--and displayed groups of the smallest +children upon their very summits, united by wreaths of roses; while the +larger children remained below. The entire front of the stage, up to the +very top, was occupied by the most extraordinary and most imposing sight I +ever beheld--and as the clouds carried the whole of the children upwards, +the curtain fell, and the piece concluded. On its conclusion, the audience +were in a perfect frenzy of applause, and demanded the author to come +forward and receive the meed of their admiration. He quickly obeyed their +summons--and I was surprised, when I saw him, at the youthfulness of his +appearance, the homeliness of his dress, and the simplicity of his manners. +He thrice bowed to the audience, laying his hand the same number of times +upon his heart. I am quite sure that, if he were to come to London, and +institute the same kind of exhibition, he would entirely fill Drury Lane or +Covent Garden--as I saw the _Schauspielhause_ filled--with parents and +children from top to bottom. + +But a truce to _in-door_ recreations. You are longing, no doubt, to scent +the evening breeze along the banks of the PRATER, or among the towering +elms of the AUGARTEN--both public places of amusement within about a league +of the ramparts of the city. It was the other Sunday evening when I visited +the Prater, and when--as the weather happened to be very fine--it was +considered to be full: but the absence of the court, and of the noblesse, +necessarily gave a less joyous and splendid aspect to the carriages and +their attendant liveries. In your way to this famous place of sabbath +evening promenade, you pass a celebrated coffee house, in the suburbs, +called the _Leopoldstadt_, which goes by the name of the _Greek +coffee-house_--on account of its being almost entirely frequented by +Greeks--so numerous at Vienna. Do not pass it, if you should ever come +hither, without entering it--at least _once_. You would fancy yourself to +be in Greece: so thoroughly characteristic are the countenances, dresses, +and language of every one within. + +[Illustration: THE PRATER, VIENNA.] + +But yonder commences the procession ... of horse and foot: of cabriolets, +family coaches, german waggons, cars, phaetons, and landaulets ... all +moving in a measured manner, within their prescribed ranks, towards the +PRATER. We must accompany them without loss of time. You now reach the +Prater. It is an extensive flat, surrounded by branches of the Danube, and +planted on each side with double rows of horse chesnut trees. The drive, in +one straight line, is probably a league in length. It is divided by two +roads, in one of which the company move _onward_, and in the other they +_return_. Consequently, if you happen to find a hillock only a few feet +high, you may, from thence, obtain a pretty good view of the interminable +procession of the carriages before mentioned: one current of them, as it +were, moving forward, and another rolling backward. But, hark!--the notes +of a harp are heard to the left ... in a meadow, where the foot passengers +often digress from the more formal tree-lined promenade. A press of ladies +and gentlemen is quickly seen. You mingle involuntarily with them: and, +looking forward, you observe a small stage erected, upon which a harper +sits and two singers stand. The company now lie down upon the grass, or +break into standing groups, or sit upon chairs hired for the occasion--to +listen to the notes so boldly and so feelingly executed.[147] The clapping +of hands, and exclamations of bravo! succeed: and the sounds of applause, +however warmly bestowed, quickly die away in the open air. The performers +bow: receive a few kreutschers ... retire; and are well satisfied. + +The sound of the trumpet is now heard behind you. Tilting feats are about +to be performed: the coursers snort and are put in motion: their hides are +bathed in sweat beneath their ponderous housings; and the blood, which +flows freely from the pricks of their riders' spurs, shews you with what +earnestness the whole affair is conducted. There, the ring is thrice +carried off at the point of the lance. Feats of horsemanship follow in a +covered building, to the right; and the juggler, conjurer, or magician, +displays his dexterous feats, or exercises his potent spells ... in a +little amphitheatre of trees, at a distance beyond. Here and there rise +more stately edifices, as theatres ... from the doors of which a throng of +heated spectators is pouring out, after having indulged their grief or joy +at the Mary Stuart of Schiller, or the----of----.. In other directions, +booths, stalls, and tables are fixed; where the hungry eat, the thirsty +drink, and the merry-hearted indulge in potent libations. The waiters are +in a constant state of locomotion. Rhenish wine sparkles here; +confectionary glitters there; and fruit looks bright and tempting in a +third place. No guest turns round to eye the company; because he is intent +upon the luxuries which invite his immediate attention--or he is in close +conversation with an intimate friend, or a beloved female. They talk and +laugh,--and the present seems to be the happiest moment of their lives. + +All is gaiety and good humour. You return again to the foot-promenade, and +look sharply about you, as you move onward, to catch the spark of beauty, +or admire the costume of taste, or confess the power of expression. It is +an Albanian female who walks yonder ... wondering, and asking questions, at +every thing she sees. The proud Jewess, supported by her husband and +father, moves in another direction. She is covered with brocade and +flaunting ribbands; but she is abstracted from every thing around her ... +because her eyes are cast downwards upon her stomacher, or sideways to +obtain a glimse of what may be called her spangled epaulettes. Her eye is +large and dark: her nose is aquiline: her complexion is of an olive brown: +her stature is majestic, her dress is gorgeous, her gait is measured--and +her demeanour is grave and composed. "She _must_ be very rich," you say--as +she passes on. "She is _prodigiously_ rich," replies the friend, to whom +you put the question:--for seven virgins, with nosegays of choicest +flowers, held up her bridal train; and the like number of youths, with +silver-hilted swords, and robes of ermine and satin, graced the same bridal +ceremony. Her father thinks he can never do enough for her; and her +husband, that he can never love her sufficiently. + +Whether she be happy or not, in consequence, we have no time to stop to +enquire ... for, see yonder! three "turbaned Turks" make their advances. +How gaily, how magnificently they are attired! What finely proportioned +limbs--what beautifully formed features! They have been carousing, +peradventure, with some young Greeks--who have just saluted them, en +passant--at the famous coffee-house before-mentioned. Every thing around +you is novel and striking; while the verdure of the trees and lawns is yet +fresh, and the sun does not seem yet disposed to sink below the horizon. +The carriages still move on, and return, in measured procession. Those who +are within, look earnestly from the windows--to catch a glance of their +passing friends. The fair hand is waved here; the curiously-painted fan is +shaken there; and the repeated nod is seen in almost every other passing +landaulet. Not a heart seems sad; not a brow appears to be clouded with +care. + +Such--or something like the foregoing--is the scene which usually passes on +a Sunday evening--perhaps six months out of the twelve--upon the famous +PRATER at Vienna; while the tolling bell of St. Stephen's tower, about nine +o'clock--and the groups of visitors hurrying back, to get home before the +gates of the city are shut against them--usually conclude the scene just +described. + +And now, my good friend, methinks I have given you a pretty fair account of +the more prominent features of this city--in regard to its public sights; +whether as connected with still or active life: as churches, palaces, or +theatres. It remains, therefore, to return again, briefly, but yet +willingly, to the subject of BOOKS; or rather, to the notice of two +_Private Collections,_ especially deserving of description--and of which, +the first is that of the EMPEROR HIMSELF. + +His Majesty's collection of Books and Prints is kept upon the second and +third floors of a portion of the building connected with the great Imperial +library. Mr. T. YOUNG is the librarian; and he also holds the honourable +office of being Secretary of his Majesty's privy council. He is well +deserving of both situations, for he fills them with ability and success. +He has the perfect appearance of an Englishman, both in figure and face. As +he speaks French readily and perfectly well, our interviews have been +frequent, and our conversations such as have led me to think that we shall +not easily forget each other. But for the library, of which he is the +guardian. It is contained in three or four rooms of moderate dimensions, +and has very much the appearance of an English Country Gentleman's +collection of about 10,000 volumes. The bindings are generally in good +taste: in full-gilt light and gray calf--with occasional folios and quartos +resplendent in morocco and gold. I hardly know when I have seen a more +cheerful and comfortable looking library; and was equally gratified to find +such a copious sprinkling of publications from Old England. + +But my immediate, and indeed principal object, was, a list of a few of the +_Rarities_ of the Emperor's private collection, as well in ms. as in print. +Mr. Young placed before me much that was exquisite and interesting in the +former, and splendid and creditable in the latter, department. He begged of +me to judge with my own eyes, and determine for myself; and he would then +supply me with a list of what he considered to be most valuable and +splendid in the collection. Accordingly, what here ensues, must be +considered as the united descriptions of my guide and myself:--Mr. Young +having composed his memoranda in the Latin language. First, of the +MANUSCRIPTS. The _Gospels;_ a vellum folio:--with illuminated capitals, and +thirteen larger paintings, supposed to be of the thirteenth--but I suspect +rather of the fourteenth--century. A _Breviary ... "for the use of Charles +the Bold, Duke of Burgundy_" This vellum MS. is of the fifteenth century, +and was executed for the distinguished character to whom it is expressly +dedicated. This is really an elegant volume: written in the gothic +character of the period, and sprinkled with marginal and capital initial +decorations. Here are--as usual in works of this kind, executed for princes +and great men--divers illuminations of figures of saints, of which there +are three of larger size than the rest: and, of these three, one is +eminently interesting, as exhibiting a small portrait of DUKE CHARLES +himself, kneeling before his tutelary saint. + +Here is an exceedingly pretty octavo volume of _Hours,_ of the fifteenth +century, fresh and sparkling in its illuminations, with marginal +decorations of flowers, monsters, and capriccios. It is in the binding of +the time--the wood, covered with gilt ornaments. _Office of the Virgin:_ a +neat vellum MS. of the fourteenth century--with ornamented capital initials +and margins, and about two dozen of larger illuminations. But the chief +attraction of this MS. arises from the text having been written by four of +the most celebrated Princesses of the House of Austria, whose names are +inscribed in the first fly leaf. + +Here is a "_Boccace des Cas des Nobles_" by Laurent Premier Fait--which is +indeed every where. Nor must a sprinkle of _Roman Classics_ be omitted to +be noticed, however briefly. A _Celsus, Portions of Livy,_ the +_Metamorphosis of Ovid_, _Seneca's Tragedies_, the _AEneid of Virgil_, and +_Juvenal_: none, I think, of a later period than the beginning or middle of +the fifteenth century--just before the invention of printing. Among the +MSS. of a miscellaneous class, are two which I was well pleased to examine: +namely, the _Funerailles des Reines de France_, in folio--adorned with +eleven large illuminations of royal funerals--and a work entitled _Mayni +Jasonis Juris consulti Eq. Rom. Caes., &c, Epitalamion, in_ 4to. The latter +MS. is, in short, an epithalamium upon the marriage of Maximilian the Great +and Blanche Maria, composed by M. Jaso, who was a ducal senator, and +attached to the embassy which returned with the destined bride for +Maximilian. What is its _chief_ ornament, in my estimation, are two sweetly +executed small portraits of the royal husband and his consort. I was +earnest to have fac-similes of them; and Mr. Young gave me the strongest +assurances that my wishes should be attended to.[148] Thus much; or perhaps +thus little, for the MSS. Still more brief must be my account of the +PRINTED BOOKS: and first for a fifteener or two. It is an edition of _Dio +Chrysostom de Regno_, without date, or name of printer, in 4to.; but most +decidedly executed (as I told Mr. Young) by _Valdarfer_. What renders this +copy exceedingly precious is, that it is printed UPON VELLUM; and is, I +think, the only known copy so executed. It is in beautiful condition. Here +is a pretty volume of _Hours_, in Latin, with a French metrical version, +printed in the fifteenth century, without date, and struck off UPON VELLUM. +It has wood-cuts, which are coloured of the time. From a copy of ms. +verses, at the beginning of the volume, we learn that "the author of this +metrical version was _Peter Gringore,_ commonly called _Vaudemont_, herald +at arms to the Duke of Lorraine; who dedicated and brought this very copy +to _Renatus of Bourbon_." I was much struck with a magnificent folio +_Missal_, printed at Venice by that skilful typographical artist _I.H. de +Landoia,_ in 1488--UPON VELLUM: with the cuts coloured.[149] A few small +vellum _Hours_ by _Vostre_ and Vivian are sufficiently pretty. + +In the class of books printed upon vellum, and continuing with the +sixteenth century, I must not fail to commence with the notice of two +copies of the _Tewrdannckh_, each of the date of 1517, and each UPON +VELLUM. One is coloured, and the other not coloured. Mr. Young describes +the former in the following animated language: "Exemplar omnibus numeris +absolutum, optimeque servatum. Praestantissimum, rarissimumque tum +typographicae, tum xylographicae artis, monumentum." _Lucani Pharsalia,_ +1811. Folio. Printed by Degen. A beautiful copy, of a magnificent book, +UPON VELLUM; illustrated by ten copper plates. _M.C. Frontonis Opera: +edidit Maius Mediol_. 1815. 4to. An unique copy; upon vellum. _Flore +Medicale decrite par Chaumeton & peinte par Mme. E. Panckoucke & I.F. +Turpin. Paris,_ 1814. Supposed to be unique, as a vellum copy; with the +original drawings, and the cuts printed in bistre. Here is also a +magnificent work, called "_Omaggio delle Provincie Venetae_" upon the +nuptials of the present Emperor and Empress of Austria. It consists of +seventeen copper-plates, printed upon vellum, and preserved in two cases, +covered with beautiful ornaments and figures, in worked gold and silver, +&c. Of this magnificent production of art, there were two copies only +printed upon vellum, and this is one of them. + +Up stairs, on the third floor, is kept his Majesty's COLLECTION of ENGRAVED +PORTRAITS--which amount, as Mr. Young informed me, to not fewer than +120,000 in number. They commence with the earliest series, from the old +German and Italian masters, and descend regularly to our own times. Of +course such a collection contains very much that is exquisite and rare in +the series of _British Portraits_. Mr. Young is an Italian by birth; but +has been nurtured, from earliest youth, in the Austrian dominions. He is a +man of strong cultivated parts, and so fond of the literature of the +"_Zodiacus Vitae_" of _Marcellus Palingenius_--translated by our _Barnabe +Googe_: of the editions of which translation he was very desirous that I +should procure him a copious and correct list. But it is the gentle and +obliging manners--the frank and open-hearted conversation--and, above all, +the high-minded devotedness to his Royal master and to his interests, that +attach, and ever will attach, Mr. Young to me--by ties of no easily +dissoluble nature. We have parted ... perhaps never to meet again; but he +may rest assured that the recollection of his kindnesses ("Semper honos +nomenque," &c.) will never be obliterated from my memory.[150] + +Scarcely a stone's throw from the Imperial Library, is the noble mansion of +the venerable DUKE ALBERT of _Saxe-Teschen:_ the husband of the lady to +whose memory Canova has erected the proudest trophy of his art. This +amiable and accomplished nobleman has turned his eightieth year; and is +most liberal and kind in the display of all the treasures which belong to +him.[151] These "treasures" are of a first-rate character; both as to +_Drawings_ and _Prints_. He has no rival in the _former_ department, and +even surpasses the Emperor in the latter. I visited and examined his +collection (necessarily in a superficial manner) twice; paying only +particular attention to the drawings of the Italian school--including those +of Claude Lorraine. I do not know what is in our _own_ royal collection, +but I may safely say that our friend Mr. Ottley has some finer _Michel +Angelos and Raffaelles_--and the Duke of Devonshire towers, beyond all +competition, in the possession of _Claude Lorraines_. Yet you are to know +that the drawings of Duke Albert amount to nearly 12,000 in number. They +are admirably well arranged--in a large, light room--overlooking the +ramparts. Having so recently examined the productions of the earlier +masters in the German school, at Munich--but more particularly in Prince +Eugene's collection of prints, in the Imperial Library here--I did not care +to look after those specimens of the same masters which were in the port +folios of the Duke Albert. The _Albert Durer_ drawings, however, excited my +attention, and extorted the warmest commendation. It is quite delightful to +learn (for so M. Bartsch told me--the Duke himself being just now at Baden) +that this dignified and truly respectable old man, yet takes delight in the +treasures of his own incomparable collection. "Whenever I visit him (said +my "fidus Achates" M.B.) he begs me to take a chair and sit beside him; and +is anxious to obtain intelligence of any thing curious, or rare, or +beautiful, which may add to the worth of his collection." + +It is now high time, methinks, to take leave not only of public and private +collections of books, but of almost every thing else in Vienna. Yet I must +add a word connected with literature and the fine arts. As to the former, +it seems to sleep soundly. Few or no literary societies are encouraged, few +public discussions are tolerated, and the capital of the empire is without +either _reviews_ or _institutions_--which can bear the least comparison +with our own. The library of the University is said, however, to hold +fourscore thousand volumes. Few critical works are published there; and for +_one_ Greek or Roman classic put forth at Vienna, they have _half_ a +_score_ at Leipsic, Franckfort, Leyden, and Strasbourg. But in Oriental +literature, M. Hammer is a tower of strength, and justly considered to be +the pride of his country. The Academy of Painting is here a mere shadow of +a shade. In the fine arts, Munich is as six to one beyond Vienna. A +torpidity, amounting to infatuation, seems to possess those public men who +have influence both on the councils and prosperity of their country. When +the impulse for talent, furnished by the antique gems belonging to the +Imperial collection,[152] is considered, it is surprising how little has +been accomplished at Vienna for the last century. M. Bartsch is, however, a +proud exception to any reproach arising from the want of indigenous talent. +His name and performances alone are a host against such captious +imputations.[153] There wants only a few wiser heads, and more active +spirits, in some of the upper circles of society, and Vienna might produce +graphic works as splendid as they would be permanent. + +We will now leave the city for the country, or rather for the immediate +neighbourhood of Vienna; and then, having, I think, sent you a good long +Vienna despatch, must hasten to take leave--not only of yourself, but of +this metropolis. Whether I shall again write to you before I cross the +Rhine on my return home--is quite uncertain. Let me therefore make the most +of the present: which indeed is of a most unconscionable length. Turn, for +one moment, to the opening of it--and note, there, some mention made of +certain monasteries--one of which is situated at CLOSTERNEUBURG, the other +in the suburbs. I will first take you to the former--a pleasant drive of +about nine miles from hence. Mr. Lewis, myself, and our attendant +Rohfritsch, hired a pair of horses for the day; and an hour and a half +brought us to a good inn, or Restaurateur's immediately opposite the +monastery in question. In our route thither, the Danube continued in sight +all the way--which rendered the drive very pleasant. The river may be the +best part of a mile broad, near the monastery. The sight of the building in +question was not very imposing, after those which I had seen in my route to +Vienna. The monastery is, in fact, an incomplete edifice; but the +foundations of the building are of an ancient date.[154] Having postponed +our dinner to a comparatively late hour, I entered, as usual, upon the +business of the monastic visit. The court-yard, or quadrangle, had a mean +appearance; but I saw enough of architectural splendour to convince me +that, if this monastery had been completed according to the original +design, it would have ranked among the noblest in Austria. + +On obtaining admission, I enquired for the librarian, but was told that he +had not yet (two o'clock) risen from dinner. I apologised for the +intrusion, and begged respectfully to be allowed to wait till he should be +disposed to leave the dining-room. The attendant, however, would admit of +no such arrangement; for he instantly disappeared, and returned with a +monk, habited in the _Augustine_ garb, with a grave aspect and measured +step. He might be somewhere about forty years of age. As he did not +understand a word of French, it became necessary again to brush up my +Latin. He begged I would follow him up stairs, and in the way to the +library, would not allow me to utter one word further in apology for my +supposed rudeness in bringing him thus abruptly from his "symposium." A +more good natured man seemingly never opened his lips. Having reached the +library, the first thing he placed before me--as the boast and triumph of +their establishment--was, a large paper copy (in quarto) of an edition of +the _Hebrew Bible_, edited by I. Hahn, one of their fraternity, and +published in 1806, 4 vols.[155] This was accomplished under the patronage +of the Head of the Monastery, _Gaudentius Dunkler_: who was at the sole +expense of the paper and of procuring new Hebrew types. I threw my eye over +the dedication to the President, by Hahn, and saw the former with pleasure +recognised as the MODERN XIMENES. + +Having thanked the librarian for a sight of these volumes--of which there +is an impression in an octavo and cheap form, "for the use of youth"--I +begged that I might have a sight of the _Incunabula Typographica_ of which +I had heard a high character. He smiled, and said that a few minutes would +suffice to undeceive me in this particular. Whereupon he placed before +me ... such a set of genuine, unsoiled, uncropt, _undoctored_, ponderous +folio tomes ... as verily caused my eyes to sparkle, and my heart to leap! +They were, upon the whole---and for their number--_such_ copies as I had +never before seen. You have here a very accurate account of them--taken, +with the said copies "oculis subjectis." _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_, +1467. _Folio_. A very large and sound copy, in the original binding of +wood; but not free from a good deal of ms. annotation. _Mentelin's German +Bible_; somewhat cropt, and in its second binding, but sound and perfect. +_Supposed first German Bible_: a large and fine copy, in its first binding +of wood. _Apuleius_, 1469. Folio. The largest and finest copy which, I +think, I ever beheld--with the exception of some slight worm holes at the +end. _Livius_, 1470. Folio. 2 vols. _Printed by V. de Spira._ In the +original binding. When I say that this copy appears to be full as fine as +that in the collection of Mr. Grenville, I bestow upon it the highest +possible commendation. _Plutarchi Vit. Parall._ 2 vol. Folio. In the well +known peculiarly shaped letter R. This copy, in one magnificent folio +volume, is the largest and finest I ever saw: but--eheu! a few leaves are +wanting at the end. _Polybius. Lat._ 1473. Folio. The printers are +Sweynheym and Pannartz. A large, fine copy; in the original binding of +wood: but four leaves at the end, with a strong foxy tint at top, are +worm-eaten in the middle. + +Let me pursue this _amusing_ strain; for I have rarely, within so small a +space--in any monastic library I have hitherto visited--found such a +sprinkling of classical volumes. _Plinius Senior_, 1472. Folio. Printed by +Jenson. A prodigiously fine, large copy. A ms. note, prefixed, says: "_hunc +librum comparuit Jacobus Pemperl pro viij t d. an [14]88," &c. Xenophontis +Cyropaedia_. Lat. _Curante Philelpho_. With the date of the translation, +1467. A very fine copy of a well printed book. _Mammotrectus_, 1470. Folio. +Printed by Schoeffher. A fine, white, tall copy; in its original wooden +binding. _Sti. Jeronimi Epistolae_. 1470. Folio. Printed by Sweynheym and +Pannartz. In one volume: for size and condition probably unrivalled. In its +first binding of wood. _Gratiani Decretales_. 1472. Folio. Printed by +Schoeffher. UPON VELLUM: in one enormous folio volume, and in an unrivalled +state of perfection. Perhaps, upon the whole, the finest vellum Schoeffher +in existence. It is in its original binding, but some of the leaves are +loose. _Opus Consiliorum I. de Calderi_. 1472. Idem Opus: _Anthonii de +Burtrio_. 1472. Folio. Each work printed by _Adam Rot, Metensis_: a rare +printer, but of whose performances I have now seen a good number of +specimens. These works are in one volume, and the present is a fine sound +copy. _Petri Lombardi Quat. Lib. Sentent_. Folio. This book is without name +of printer or date; but I should conjecture it to be executed in +Eggesteyn's largest gothic character, and, from a ms. memorandum at the +end, we are quite sure that the book was printed in 1471 at latest. The +memorandum is as follows: "_Iste liber est magistri Leonardi Fruman de +Hyersaw_, 1471." + +Such appeared to me to be the choicer, and more to be desiderated, volumes +in the monastic library of Closterneuberg--which a visit of about a couple +of hours only enabled me to examine. I say "_desiderated_"--my good +friend--because, on returning home, I revolved within myself what might be +done with propriety towards the _possession_ of them.[156] Having thanked +the worthy librarian, and expressed the very great satisfaction afforded me +by a sight of the books in question--which had fully answered the high +character given of them--I returned to the auberge--dined with an increased +appetite in consequence of such a sight--and, picking up a "white stone," +as a lucky omen, being at the very extent of my _Bibliographical_, +_Antiquarian_, and _Picturesque Tour_--returned to Vienna, to a late cup of +tea; well satisfied, in every respect, with this most agreeable excursion. + +There now remains but one more subject to be noticed--and, then, farewell +to this city--and hie for Manheim, Paris, and Old England! That one subject +is again connected with old books and an old Monastery ... which indeed the +opening of this letter leads you to anticipate. In that part of the vast +suburbs of Vienna which faces the north, and which is called the +ROSSAU--there stands a church and a _Capuchin convent_, of some two +centuries antiquity: the latter, now far gone to decay both in the building +and revenues. The outer gate of the convent was opened--as at the Capuchin +convent which contains the imperial sepulchres--by a man with a long, +bushy, and wiry beard ... who could not speak one word of French. I was +alone, and a hackney coach had conveyed me thither. What was to be done. +"_Bibliothecam hujusce Monasterii valde videre cupio--licetne Domine?"_ The +monk answered my interrogatory with a sonorous "_imo_:" and the gates +closing upon us, I found myself in the cloisters--where my attendant left +me, to seek the Principal and librarian. In two minutes, I observed a +couple of portly Capuchins, pacing the pavement of the cloister, and +approaching me with rather a hurried step. On meeting, they saluted me +formally--and assuming a cheerful air, begged to conduct me to the library. +We were quickly within a room, of very moderate dimensions, divided into +two compartments, of which the shelves were literally thronged and crammed +with books, lying in all directions, and completely covered with dust. It +was impossible to make a selection from such an indigested farrago: but the +backs happening to be lettered, this afforded me considerable facility. I +was told that the "WHOLE LIBRARY WAS AT MY DISPOSAL!"--which intelligence +surprised and somewhat staggered me. The monks seemed to enjoy my +expression of astonishment. + +I went to work quickly; and after upwards of an hour's severe rummaging, +among uninteresting folios and quartos of medicine, canon-law, scholastic +metaphysics, and dry comments upon the decretals of Popes Boniface and +Gratian--it was rather from courtesy, than complete satisfaction, that I +pitched upon a few ... of a miscellaneous description--begging to have the +account, for which the money should be immediately forthcoming. They +replied that my wishes should be instantly attended to--but that it would +be necessary to consult together to reconsider the prices--and that a +porter should be at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, with the volumes +selected--to await my final decision. As a _book-bill_ sent from a +monastery, and written in the Latin language, may be considered _unique_ in +our country--and a curiosity among the _Roxburghers _--I venture to send +you a transcript of it: premising, that I retained the books, and paid down +the money: somewhere about _6l. 16s. 6d_. You will necessarily smile at the +epithets bestowed upon your friend. + + Plurimum Reverende, ac Venerande Domine! + + Mitto cum hisce, quos tibi seligere placuit, libros, eosdemque hic + breviter describo, addito pretio, quo nobis conventum est; et quidem + ex catalogo desumptos: + + + Florins. +Missale Rom. pro Pataviensis Ecclae ritu. 1494 5 +Missa defunctorum. 1499 3 +Val. Martialis Epigrammatum opus. 1475 25 +Xenophontis Apologia Socratis 3 +Epulario &c. 1 +De Conceptu et triplici Mariae V. Candore 1 +ac demum Trithemii Annales Hirsaug. et Aristotelis opera + Edit. Sylburgii 35 + ----- + 73 +Quae cuncta Tibi optime convenire, Teque valere perpetim precor +et opto. + +P. JOAN. SARCANDER MRA. +_Ord. Serv. B.M.V._ + +This is the last _bibliomaniacal_ transaction in which I am likely to be +engaged at Vienna; for, within thirty-six hours from hence, the post horses +will be in the archway of this hotel, with their heads turned towards Old +England. In that direction my face will be also turned ... for the next +month or five weeks to come; being resolved upon spending the best part of +a fortnight of those five weeks, at _Ratisbon_, _Nuremberg_, and _Manheim_. +You may therefore expect to hear from me again--certainly for the _last_ +time--at Manheim, just before crossing the Rhine for Chalons sur Marne, +Metz, and Paris. I shall necessarily have but little leisure on the +road--for a journey of full 500 miles is to be encountered before I reach +the hither bank of the Rhine at Manheim. + +Farewell then to VIENNA:--a long, and perhaps final farewell! If I have +arrived at a moment when this capital is comparatively thinned of its +population, and bereft of its courtly splendors--and if this city may be +said to be _now_ dull, compared with what its _winter_ gaieties will render +it--I shall nevertheless not have visited it IN VAIN. Books, whether as +MSS. or printed volumes, have been inspected by me with an earnestness and +profitable result--not exceeded by any previous similar application: while +the company of men of worth, of talents, and of kindred tastes, has +rendered my social happiness complete. The best of hearts, and the +friendliest of dispositions, are surely to be found in the capital of +Austria. Farewell. It is almost the hour of midnight--and not a single note +of the harp or violin is to be heard in the streets. The moon shines softly +and sweetly. God bless you. + + +[134] In Hartman Schedel's time, these suburbs seem to have been + equally distinguished. "Habet (says he, speaking of Vienna) SUBURBIA + MAXIMA et AMBICIOSA." _Chron. Norimb._ 1493. fol. xcviii. rev. + +[135] Schedel's general description of the city of Vienna, which is + equally brief and spirited, may deserve to be quoted. "VIENNA autem + urbs magnifica ambitu murorum cingitur duorum millium passuum: habet + fossa et vallo cincta: urbs autem fossatum magnum habet: undique + aggerem prealtum: menia deinde spissa et sublimia frequentesque + turres; et propugnacula ad bellum prompta. AEdes civium amplae et + ornatae: structura solida et firma, altae domorum facies magnificaeque + visuntur. Unum id dedecori est, quod tecta plerumque ligna contegunt + pauca lateres. Cetera edificia muro lapideo consistunt. Pictae domus, + et interius et exterius splendent. Ingressus cuiusque domum in aedes te + principis venisse putabis." _Ibid._ This is not an exaggerated + description. A little below, Schedel says "there is a monastery, + called St. Jerome, (much after the fashion of our _Magdalen_) in + which reformed Prostitutes are kept; and where, day and night, they + sing hymns in the Teutonic dialect. If any of them are found relapsing + into their former sinful ways, they are thrown headlong into the + Danube." "But (adds he) they lead, on the contrary, a chaste and holy + life." + +[136] I suspect that the houses opposite the Palace are of comparatively + recent construction. In _Pfeffel's Viva et Accurata Delineatio_ + of the palaces and public buildings of Vienna, 1725 (oblong folio,) + the palace faces a wide place or square. Eighteen sculptured human + figures, apparently of the size of life, there grace the topmost + ballustrade in the copper-plate view of this truly magnificent + residence. + +[137] [Recently however the number of _Restaurateurs_ has become + considerable.] + +[138] In Hartmann Schedel's time, there appears to have been a very + considerable traffic in wine at Vienna: "It is incredible (says he) + what a brisk trade is stirring in the article of wine,[139] in this + city. Twelve hundred horses are daily employed for the purposes of + draught--either for the wine drank at Vienna, or sent up the + Danube--against the stream--with amazing labour and difficulty. It is + said that the wine cellars are frequently as deep _below_ the earth, + as the houses are _above_ it." Schedel goes on to describe the general + appearance of the streets, and the neatness of the interiors, of the + houses: adding, "that the windows are generally filled with stained + glass, having iron-gratings without, where numerous birds sing in + cages. The winter (remarks he) sets in here very severely." _Chron. + Norimb_. 1493, fol. xcix. + +[139] The vintage about Vienna should seem to have been equally + abundant a century after the above was written. In the year 1590, when + a severe shock of earthquake threatened destruction to the tower of + the Cathedral--and it was absolutely necessary to set about immediate + repairs--the _liquid_ which was applied to make the most + astringent _mortar_, was WINE: "l'on se servit de _vin,_ qui + fut alors en abondance, pour faire le _platre_ de cette batise." + _Denkmahle der Baukunst und Bildneren des Mittelalters in dem + Oesterreichischen Kaiserthume_. Germ. Fr. Part iii. p. 36. 1817-20. + +[140] There is a good sized (folded) view of the church, or rather + chiefly of the south front of the spire, in the "_Vera et Accurata + Delineatio Omnium Templorum et Caenobiorum_" of Vienna, published by + Pfeffel in the year 1724, oblong folio. + +[141] This head has been published as the first plate in the third + livraison of the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES of Vienna--accompanied by + French and German letter-press. I have no hesitation in saying that, + without the least national bias or individual partiality, the + performance of Mr. Lewis--although much smaller, is by far the most + _faithful_; nor is the engraving less superior, than the drawing, + to the production of the Vienna artist. This latter is indeed + faithless in design and coarse in execution. Beneath the head, in the + original sculpture, and in the latter plate, we read the inscription + M.A.P. 1313. It is no doubt an interesting specimen of sculpture of + the period. + +[142] Vol. ii. p. 312-313. + +[143] There is a large print of it (which I saw at Vienna) in the line + manner, but very indifferently executed. But of the last, detached + group, above described, there is a very fine print in the line manner. + +[144] See p. 245 ante. + +[145] As in that of the _Feast of Venus in the island of + Cythera_: about eleven feet by seven. There is also another, of + himself, in the Garden of Love--with his two wives--in the peculiarly + powerful and voluptuous style of his pencil. The picture is about four + feet long. His portrait of one of his wives, of the size of life, + habited only in an ermine cloak at the back (of which the print is + well known) is an extraordinary production ... as to colour and + effect. + +[146] I am not sure whether any publication, connected with this + extraordinary collection, has appeared since _Chretien de Mechel's + Catalogue des Tableaux de la Galerie Imperiale et Royale de + Vienne_; 1784, 8vo.: which contains, at the end, four folded + copper-plates of the front elevations and ground plans of the Great + and Little Belvederes. He divides his work into the _Venetian, + Roman, Florentine, Bolognese_, and _Ancient and Modern Flemish + Schools_: according to the different chambers or apartments. This + catalogue is a mere straight-forward performance; presenting a formal + description of the pictures, as to size and subject, but rarely + indulging in warmth of commendation, and never in curious and learned + research. The preface, from which I have gleaned the particulars of + the History of the Collection, is sufficiently interesting. My friend + M. Bartsch, if leisure and encouragement were afforded him, might + produce a magnificent and instructive work--devoted to this very + extraordinary collection. (Upon whom, NOW, shall this task devolve?!) + +[147] See the OPPOSITE PLATE. + +[148] The truth is, not only fac-similes of these illuminations, but + of the initial L, so warmly mentioned at page 292, were executed by M. + Fendi, under the direction of my friend M. Bartsch, and dispatched to + me from Vienna in the month of June 1820--but were lost on the road. + +[149] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a copy of this exquisitely + printed book from the M'Carthy collection. See the _AEdes + Althorpianae;_ vol. ii. p. 192. + +[150] [I annex, with no common gratification, a fac-simile of the + Autograph of this most worthy man, + + [Illustration]] + +[151] He has (_now_) been _dead_ several years. + +[152] ECKHEL'S work upon these gems, in 1788, folio, is well known. + The apotheosis of Augustus, in this collection, is considered as an + unrivalled specimen of art, upon sardonyx. I regretted much not to + have seen these gems, but the floor of the room in which they are + preserved was taken up, and the keeper from home. + +[153] It will be only necessary to mention--for the establishment of + this fact--the ENGRAVED WORKS alone of M. Bartsch, from masters of + every period, and of every school, amounting to 505 in number: an + almost incredible effort, when we consider that their author has + scarcely yet passed his grand climacteric. His _Peintre Graveur_ + is a literary performance, in the graphic department, of really solid + merit and utility. The record of the achievements of M. Bartsch has + been perfected by the most affectionate and grateful of all + hands--those of his son, _Frederic de Bartsch_--in an octavo volume, + which bears the following title, and which has the portrait (but not a + striking resemblance) of the father prefixed:--"_Catalogue des + Estampes de_ J. ADAM de BARTSCH, _Chevalier de l'Ordre de Leopold, + Conseiller aulique et Premier Garde de la Bibl. Imp. et Roy. de la + Cour, Membre de l'Academie des Beaux Arts de Vienne_." 1818. 8vo. pp. + 165. There is a modest and sensible preface by the son--in which we + are informed that the catalogue was not originally compiled for the + purpose of making it public. + + The following is a fac-simile of the Autograph of this celebrated + graphical Critic and Artist. + + [Illustration] + +[154] The MONASTERY of CLOSTERNEUBURG, or Nevenburg, or Nuenburg, or + Newburg, or Neunburg--is supposed to have been built by Leopold the + Pious in the year 1114. It was of the order of St. Augustin. They + possess (at the monastery, it should seem) a very valuable chronicle, + of the XIIth century, upon vellum--devoted to the history of the + establishment; but unluckily defective at the beginning and end. It is + supposed to have been written by the head of the monastery, for the + time being. It is continued by a contemporaneous hand, down to the + middle of the fourteenth century. They preserve also, at + Closterneuburg, a Necrology--of five hundred years--down to the year + 1721. "Inter caeteros praestantes veteres codices manuscriptos, quos + INSIGNIS BIBLIOTHECA CLAUSTRO-NEOBURGENSIS servat, est pervetus + inclytae ejusdem canoniae Necrologium, ante annos quingentos in + membranis elegantissime manu exaratum, et a posteriorum temporum + auctoribus continuatum." _Script. Rer. Austriacar. Cura Pez._ + 1721. vol. 1. col. 435, 494. + +[155] The librarian, MAXIMILIAN FISCHER, informed me the quarto copies + were rare, for that only 400 were printed. The octavo copies are not + so, but they do not contain all the marginal references which are in + the quarto impressions. + +[156] In fact, I wrote a letter to the librarian, the day after my + visit, proposing to give 2000 florins in specie for the volumes above + described. My request was answered by the following polite, and + certainly most discreet and commendable reply: "D....Domine! Litteris + a Te 15. Sept. scriptis et 16 Sept. a me receptis, de Tuo desiderio + nonnullos bibliothecae nostrae libros pro pecunia acquirendi, me + certiorem reddidisti; ast mihi respondendum venit, quod tuis votis + obtemperare non possim. Copia horum librorum ad cimelium bibliothecae + Claustroneoburgensis merito refertur, et maxima sunt in aestimatione + apud omnes confratres meos; porro, lege civili cautum est, ne libri et + res rariores Abbatiarum divenderentur. Si unum aliumve horum, ceu + duplicatum, invenissem, pro aequissimo pretio in signum venerationis + transmisissem. + + "Ad alia, si praestare possem, officia, me paratissimum invenies, + simulque Te obsecro, me aestimatorem tui sincerrimum reputes, hinc me + in ulteriorem recordationem commendo, ac dignum me aestimes quod + nominare me possem, + + ... dominationis Tuae + _E Canonia Claustroneoburgensi_, addictissimum + 17 _Septbr_ 1818. MAXIMILIANUM FISCHER. + Can. reg. Bibliothec. et + Archivar." + + + +_Supplement_. + +RATISBON, NUREMBERG, MANHEIM. + +_Supplement_. + + +Having found it impracticable to write to my friend--on the route from +Vienna to Paris, and from thence to London--the reader is here presented +with a few SUPPLEMENTAL PARTICULARS with which that route furnished me; and +which, I presume to think, will not be considered either misplaced or +uninteresting. They are arranged quite in the manner of MEMORANDA, or +heads: not unaccompanied with a regret that the limits of this work forbid +a more extended detail. I shall immediately, therefore, conduct the reader +from Vienna to + + +RATISBON. + + +I left VIENNA, with my travelling companion, within two days after writing +the last letter, dated from that place--upon a beautiful September morning. +But ere we had reached _St. Poelten_, the face of the heavens was changed, +and heavy rain accompanied us till we got to Moelk, where we slept: not +however before I had written a note to the worthy _Benedictine Fraternity_ +at the monastery--professing my intention of breakfasting with them the +next morning. This self-invitation was joyfully accepted, and the valet, +who returned with the written answer, told me that it was a high day of +feasting and merry-making at the monastery--and that he had left the worthy +Monks in the plenitude of their social banquet. We were much gratified the +next morning, not only by the choice and excellence of the breakfast, but +by the friendliness of our reception. So simple are manners here, that, in +going up the hill, towards the monastery, we met the worthy Vice Principal, +Pallas, habited in his black gown--returning from a baker's shop, where he +had been to bespeak the best bread. I was glad to renew my acquaintance +with the Abbe Strattman, and again solicited permission for Mr. Lewis to +take the portrait of so eminent a bibliographer. But in vain: the Abbe +answering, with rather a melancholy and mysterious air, that "the world was +lost to him, and himself to the world." + +We parted--with pain on both sides; and on the same evening slept, where we +had stopt in our route to Vienna, at _Lintz_. The next morning (Sunday) we +started betimes to breakfast at _Efferding_. Our route lay chiefly along +the banks of the Danube ... under hanging woods on one side, with villages +and villas on the other. The fog hung heavily about us; and we could catch +but partial and unsatisfactory glimpses of that scenery, which, when +lightened by a warm sunshine, must be perfectly romantic. At Efferding our +carriage and luggage were examined, while we breakfasted. The day now +brightened up, and nothing but sunshine and "the song of earliest birds" +accompanied us to _Sigharding_,--the next post town. Hence to _Scharding_, +where we dined, and to _Fuersternell_, where we supped and slept. The inn +was crowded by country people below, but we got excellent quarters in the +attics; and were regaled with peaches, after supper, which might have vied +with those out of the Imperial garden at Vienna. We arose betimes, and +breakfasted at _Vilshofen_--and having lost sight of the Danube, since we +left Efferding, we were here glad to come again in view of it: and +especially to find it accompany us a good hundred miles of our route, till +we reached _Ratisbon_. + +_Straubing_, where we dined--and which is within two posts of Ratisbon--is +a very considerable town. The Danube washes parts of its suburbs. As the +day was uncommonly serene and mild, even to occasional sultriness, and as +we were in excellent time for reaching Ratisbon that evening, we devoted an +hour or two to rambling in this town. Mr. Lewis made sketches, and I +strolled into churches, and made enquiries after booksellers shops, and +possessors of old books: but with very little success. A fine hard road, as +level as a bowling green, carries you within an hour to _Pfaetter_--the post +town between Straubing and Ratisbon--and almost twice that distance brings +you to the latter place. + +It was dark when we entered Ratisbon, and having been recommended to the +hotel of the _Agneau Blanc_ we drove thither, and alighted ... close to the +very banks of the Danube--and heard the roar of its rapid stream, turning +several mills, close as it were to our very ears. The master of the hotel, +whose name is _Cramer_, and who talked French very readily, received us +with peculiar courtesy; and, on demanding the best situated room in the +house, we were conducted on the second floor, to the chamber which had been +occupied, only two or three days before, by the Emperor of Austria himself, +on his way to _Aix-la-Chapelle_. The next morning was a morning of wonder +to us. Our sitting-room, which was a very lantern, from the number of +windows, gave us a view of the rushing stream of the Danube, of a portion +of the bridge over it, of some beautifully undulating and vine-covered +hills, in the distance, on the opposite side--and, lower down the stream, +of the town-walls and water-mills, of which latter we had heard the +stunning sounds on our arrival.[157] The whole had a singularly novel and +pleasing appearance. + +But if the sitting room was thus productive of gratification, the very +first walk I took in the streets was productive of still greater. On +leaving the inn, and turning to the left, up a narrow street, I came in +view of a house ... upon the walls of which were painted, full three +hundred years ago, the figures of _Goliath and David_. The former could be +scarcely less than twenty feet high: the latter, who was probably about +one-third of that height, was represented as if about to cast the stone +from the sling. The costume of Goliath marked the period when he was thus +represented;[158] and I must say, considering the time that has elapsed +since that representation, that he is yet a fine, vigorous, and +fresh-looking fellow. I continued onwards, now to the right, and afterwards +to the left, without knowing a single step of the route. An old, but short +square gothic tower--upon one of the four sides of which was a curious old +clock, supported by human figures--immediately caught my attention. The +_Town Hall_ was large and imposing; but the _Cathedral_, surrounded by +booths--it being fair-time--was, of course, the great object of my +attention. In short, I saw enough within an hour to convince me, that I was +visiting a large, curious, and well-peopled town; replete with antiquities, +and including several of the time of the Romans, to whom it was necessarily +a very important station. Ratisbon is said to contain a population of about +20,000 souls. + +The Cathedral can boast of little antiquity. It is almost a building of +yesterday; yet it is large, richly ornamented on the outside, especially on +the west, between the towers--and is considered one of the noblest +structures of the kind in Bavaria.[159] The interior wants that decisive +effect which simplicity produces. It is too much broken into parts, and +covered with monuments of a very heterogeneous description. Near it I +traced the cloisters of an old convent or monastery of some kind, now +demolished, which could not be less than five hundred years old. The +streets of Ratisbon are generally picturesque, as well from their +undulating forms, as from the antiquity of a great number of the houses. +The modern parts of the town are handsome, and there is a pleasant +inter-mixture of trees and grass plats in some of these more recent +portions. There are some pleasing public walks, after the English fashion; +and a public garden, where a colossal sphinx, erected by the late +philosopher _Gleichen_, has a very imposing appearance. Here is also an +obelisk erected to the memory of Gleichen himself, the founder of these +gardens; and a monument to the memory of Keplar, the astronomer; which +latter was luckily spared in the assault of this town by the French in +1809. + +But these are, comparatively, every day objects. A much more interesting +source of observation, to my mind, were the very few existing relics of the +once celebrated monastery of ST. EMMERAM--and a great portion of the +remains of another old monastery, called ST. JAMES--which latter may indeed +be designated the _College of the Jacobites_; as the few members who +inhabit it were the followers of the house and fortunes of the Pretender, +James Stuart. The monastery, or _Abbey of St. Emmeram_ was one of the most +celebrated throughout Europe; and I suspect that its library, both of MSS. +and printed books, was among the principal causes of its celebrity.[160] +The intelligent and truly obliging Mr. A. Kraemer, librarian to the Prince +of Tour and Taxis, accompanied me in my visit to the very few existing +remains of St. Emmeram--which indeed are incorporated, as it were, with the +church close to the palace or residence of the Prince. As I walked along +the corridors of this latter building, after having examined the Prince's +library, and taken notes of a few of the rarer or more beautiful books, I +could look through the windows into the body of the church itself. It is +difficult to describe this religious edifice, and still more so to know +what portions belonged to the old monastery. I saw a stone chair--rude, +massive, and almost shapeless--in which _Adam_ might have sat ... if dates +are to be judged of by the barbarism of form. Something like a crypt, of +which the further part was uncovered--reminded me of portions of the crypt +at _Freysing_; and among the old monuments belonging to the abbey, was one +of _Queen Hemma_, wife of Ludovic, King of Bavaria: a great benefactress, +who was buried there in 876. The figure, which was whole-length, and of the +size of life, was painted; and might be of the fourteenth century. There is +another monument, of _Warmundus, Count of Wasserburg_, who was buried in +1001. These monuments have been lithographised, from the drawings of +Quaglio, in the "_Denkmahle der Baukunst des Mittelalters im Koenigreiche +Baiern_," 1816. Folio. + +Of all interesting objects of architectural antiquity in Ratisbon, none +struck me so forcibly--and indeed none is in itself so curious and +singular--as the MONASTERY OF ST. JAMES, before slightly alluded to. The +front of that portion of it, connected with the church, should seem to be +of an extremely remote antiquity. It is the ornaments, or style of +architecture, which give it this character of antiquity. The ornaments, +which are on each side of the door way, or porch, are quite extraordinary, +and appear as if the building had been erected by Mexicans or Hindoos. + +Quaglio has made a drawing, and published a lithographic print of the whole +of this entrance. I had conjectured the building to be of the twelfth +century, and was pleased to have my conjecture confirmed by the assurance +of one of the members of the college (either Mr. Richardson or Mr. Sharp) +that the foundations of the building were laid in the middle of the XIIth +century; and that, about twenty miles off, down the Danube, there was +another monastery, now in ruins, called _Mosburg_, if I mistake not--which +was built about the same period, and which exhibited precisely the same +style of architecture. + +But if the entire college, with the church, cloisters, sitting rooms, and +dormitories, was productive of so much gratification, the _contents_ of +these rooms, including the _members_ themselves, were productive of yet +greater. To begin with the Head, or President, DR. C. ARBUTHNOT: one of the +finest and healthiest looking old gentlemen I ever beheld--in his +eighty-second year. I should however premise, that the members of this +college--only six or eight in number, and attached to the interests of the +Stuarts--have been settled here almost from their infancy: some having +arrived at seven, and others at twelve, years of age. Their method of +speaking their _own_ language is very singular; and rather difficult of +comprehension. Nor is the _French_, spoken by them, of much better +pronunciation. Of manners the most simple, and apparently of principles the +most pure, they seem to be strangers to those wants and wishes which +frequently agitate a more numerous and polished establishment; and to move, +as it were, from the cradle to the grave ... + + "The world forgetting, by the world forgot." + +As soon as the present Head ceases to exist,[161] the society is to be +dissolved--and the building to be demolished.[162] I own that this +intelligence, furnished me by one of the members, gave a melancholy and yet +more interesting air to every object which I saw, and to every Member with +whom I conversed. The society is of the Benedictine order, and there is a +large whole length portrait, in the upper cloisters, or rather corridor, of +ST. BENEDICT--with the emphatic inscription of "PATER MONACHORUM." The +_library_ was carefully visited by me, and a great number of volumes +inspected. The local is small and unpretending: a mere corridor, +communicating with a tolerably good sized room, in the middle, at right +angles. I saw a few _hiatuses_, which had been caused by disposing of the +volumes, that had _filled_ them, to the cabinet in St. James's Place. In +fact, Mr. Horn--so distinguished for his bibliographical _trouvailles_--had +been either himself a _member_ of this College, or had had a _brother_, so +circumstanced, who foraged for him. What remained was, comparatively, mere +chaff: and yet I contrived to find a pretty ample sprinkling of Greek and +Latin Philosophy, printed and published at Paris by _Gourmont_, _Colinaeus_, +and the _Stephens_, in the first half of the sixteenth century. There were +also some most beautifully-conditioned Hebrew books, printed by the +_Stephen family_;--and having turned the bottoms of those books outwards, +which I thought it might be possible to purchase, I requested the librarian +to consider of the matter; who, himself apparently consenting, informed me, +on the following morning, that, on a consultation held with the other +members, it was deemed advisable not to part with any more of their books. +I do not suppose that the whole would bring 250l. beneath a well known +hammer in Pall-Mall. + +The PUBLIC LIBRARY was also carefully visited. It is a strange, rambling, +but not wholly uninteresting place--although the collection is rather +barbarously miscellaneous. I saw more remains of Roman antiquities of the +usual character of rings, spear-heads, lachrymatories, &c.--than of rare +and curious old books: but, among the latter, I duly noticed _Mentelin's +edition of the first German Bible_. No funds are applied to the increase of +this collection; and the books, in an upper and lower room, seem to lie +desolate and forlorn, as if rarely visited--and yet more rarely opened. +Compared with the celebrated public libraries in France, Bavaria, and +Austria, this of RATISBON is ... almost a reproach to the municipal +authorities of the place. I cannot however take leave of the book-theme, or +of Ratisbon--without mentioning, in terms of unfeigned sincerity, the +obligations I was under to M. AUGUSTUS KRAEMER, the librarian of the Prince +of Tour and Taxis; who not only satisfied, but even anticipated, my wishes, +in every thing connected with antiquities. There is a friendliness of +disposition, a mildness of manner, and pleasantness both of mien and of +conversation, about this gentleman, which render his society extremely +engaging. Upon the whole, although I absolutely gained nothing in the way +of book-acquisitions, during my residence at Ratisbon, I have not passed +three pleasanter days in any town in Bavaria than those which were spent +here. It is a place richly deserving of the minute attention of the +antiquary; and the country, on the opposite side of the Danube, presents +some genuine features of picturesque beauty. Nor were the civility, good +fare, and reasonable charges of the _Agneau Blanc_, among the most +insignificant comforts attending our residence at Ratisbon. + +We left that town a little after mid-day, intending to sleep the same +evening at NEUMARKT, within two stages of Nuremberg. About an English mile +from Ratisbon, the road rises to a considerable elevation, whence you +obtain a fine and interesting view of that city--with the Danube encircling +its base like a belt. From this eminence I looked, for the last time, upon +that magnificent river--which, with very few exceptions, had kept in view +the whole way from Vienna: a distance of about two hundred and sixty +English miles. I learnt that an aquatic excursion, from Ulm to Ratisbon, +was one of the pleasantest schemes or parties of pleasure, imaginable--and +that the English were extremely partial to it. Our faces were now +resolutely turned towards Nuremberg; while a fine day, and a tolerably good +road, made us insensible of any inconvenience which might otherwise have +resulted from a journey of nine German miles. + +We reached _Neumarkt_ about night-fall, and got into very excellent +quarters. The rooms of the inn which we occupied had been filled by the +Duke of Wellington and Lord and Lady Castlereagh on their journey to +Congress in the winter of 1814. The master of the inn related to us a +singular anecdote respecting the Duke. On hearing of his arrival, the +inhabitants of the place flocked round the inn, and the next morning the +Duke found the _tops of his boots half cut away_--from the desire which the +people expressed of having "some memorial of the great captain of the +age."[163] No other, or more feasible plan presented itself, than that of +making interest with his Grace's groom--when the boots were taken down to +be cleaned on the morning following his arrival. Perhaps the Duke's _coat_, +had it been seen, might have shared the same fate. + +The morning gave me an opportunity of examining the town of _Neumarkt_, +which is surrounded by a wall, in the _inner_ side of which is a sort of +covered corridor (now in a state of great decay) running entirely round the +town. At different stations there are wooden steps for the purpose of +ascent and descent. In a churchyard, I was startled by the representation +of the _Agony in the Garden_ (so often mentioned in this Tour) which was +executed in stone, and coloured after the life, and which had every +appearance of _reality_. I stumbled upon it, unawares: and confess that I +had never before witnessed so startling a representation of the subject. +Having quitted Neumarkt, after breakfast, it remained only to change horses +at _Feucht_, and afterwards to dine at Nuremberg. Of all cities which I had +wished to see, before and since quitting England, NUREMBERG was that upon +which my heart seemed to be the most fixed.[164] It had been the nursery of +the Fine Arts in Bavaria; one of the favourite residences of Maximilian the +Great; the seat of learning and the abode equally of commerce and of wealth +during the sixteenth century. It was here too, that ALBERT DURER--perhaps +the most extraordinary genius of his age--lived and died: and here I learnt +that his tombstone, and the house in which he resided, were still to be +seen. + +The first view of the spires and turretted walls of Nuremberg[165] filled +me with a sensation which it is difficult to describe. Within about five +English miles of it, just as we were about to run down the last descent, +from the bottom of which it is perfectly level to the very gates of the +city--we discovered a group of peasants, chiefly female, busied in carrying +barrows, apparently of fire wood, towards the town. On passing them, the +attention of Mr. Lewis was caught by one female countenance in +particular--so distinguished by a sweetness and benevolence of +expression--that we requested the postilion to stop, that we might learn +some particulars respecting this young woman, and the mode of life which +she followed. She was without stockings; of a strong muscular form, and her +face was half buried beneath a large flapping straw hat. We learnt that her +parents were engaged in making black lead pencils (a flourishing branch of +commerce, at this moment, at Nuremberg) for the wholesale dealers; and they +were so poor, that she was glad to get a _florin_ by conveying wood (as we +then saw her) four miles to Nuremberg. + +It was market-day when we entered Nuremberg, about four o'clock. The inn to +which we had been recommended, proved an excellent one: civility, +cleanliness, good fare, and reasonable charges--these form the tests of the +excellence of the _Cheval Rouge_ at Nuremberg. In our route thither, we +passed the two churches of St. _Lawrence_ and St. _Sebald_, of which the +former is the largest--and indeed principal place of worship in the town. +We also passed through the market-place, wherein are several gothic +buildings--more elaborate in ornament than graceful in form or curious from +antiquity. The whole square, however, was extremely interesting, and full +of population and bustle. The town indeed is computed to contain 30,000 +inhabitants. We noticed, on the outsides of the houses, large paintings, as +at Ratisbon, of gigantic figures: and every street seemed to promise fresh +gratification, as we descended one and ascended another. + +My first object, on settling at the hotel, was to seek out the PUBLIC +LIBRARY, and to obtain an inspection of some of those volumes which had +exercised the pen of DE MURR, in his Latin _Memoirs of the Public Library +of Nuremberg_. I was now also in the birthplace of PANZER--another, and +infinitely more distinguished bibliographer,--whose _Typographical Annals +of Europe_ will for ever render his memory as dear to other towns as to +Nuremberg. In short, when I viewed the _Citadel_ of this place--and +witnessed, in my perambulations about the town, so many curious specimens +of gothic architecture, I could only express my surprise and regret that +more substantial justice had not been rendered to so interesting a spot. I +purchased every thing I could lay my hand upon, connected with the +_published antiquities_ of the town; but that "every thing" was +sufficiently scanty and unsatisfactory. + +Before, however, I make mention of the Public Library, it may be as well +briefly to notice the two churches--- _St. Sebald_ and _St. Lawrence_. The +former was within a stone's throw of our inn. Above the door of the western +front, is a remarkably fine crucifix of wood--placed, however, in too deep +a recess--said to be by _Veit Stoss_. The head is of a very fine form, and +the countenance has an expression of the most acute and intense feeling. A +crown of thorns is twisted round the brow. But this figure, as well as the +whole of the outside and inside of the church, stands in great need of +being repaired. The towers are low, with insignificant turrets: the latter +evidently a later erection--probably at the commencement of the sixteenth +century. The eastern extremity, as well indeed as the aisles, is surrounded +by buttresses; and the sharp-pointed, or lancet windows, seem to bespeak +the fourteenth, if not the thirteenth century. The great "wonder" of the +interior, is the _Shrine of the Saint_,[166] (to whom the church is +dedicated,) of which the greater part is silver. At the time of my viewing +it, it was in a disjointed state--parts of it having been taken to pieces, +for repair: but from Geisler's exquisite little engraving, I should +pronounce it to be second to few specimens of similar art in Europe. The +figures do not exceed two feet in height, and the extreme elevation of the +shrine may be about eight feet. Nor has Geisler's almost equally exquisite +little engraving of the richly carved gothic _font_ in this church, less +claim upon the admiration of the connoisseur. + +The mother church, or Cathedral of _St. Lawrence_, is much larger, and +portions of it may be of the latter end of the thirteenth century. The +principal entrance presents us with an elaborate door-way--perhaps of the +fourteenth century--with the sculpture divided into several compartments, +as at Rouen, Strasbourg, and other earlier edifices. There is a poverty in +the two towers, both from their size, and the meagerness of the windows; +but the slim spires at the summit, are, doubtless, nearly of a coeval date +with that which supports them. The bottom of the large circular, or +marygold window, is injured in its effect by a gothic balustrade of a later +period. The interior of this church has certainly nothing very commanding +or striking, on the score of architectural grandeur or beauty; but there +are some painted glass-windows--especially by _Volkmar_---which are +deserving of particular attention. Nuremberg has one advantage over many +populous towns; its public buildings are not choked up by narrow streets: +and I hardly know an edifice of distinction, round which the spectator may +not walk with perfect ease, and obtain a view of every portion which he is +desirous of examining. _The Fraueenkerche_, or the _church of St. Mary_, in +the market-place, has a very singular construction in its western front. A +double arched door-way, terminated by an arch at the top, and surmounted by +a curious triangular projection from the main building, has rather an odd, +than a beautiful effect. Above, terminating in an apex--surmounted by a +small turret, are five rows of gothic niches, of which the extremities, at +each end, narrow--in the fashion of steps, gradually--from the topmost of +which range or rows of niches, the turret rises perpendicularly. It is a +small edifice, and has been recently doomed to make a very distinguished +figure in the imposing lithographic print of Quaglio.[167] The interior of +this church is not less singular, as may be seen in the print published +about sixty years ago, and yet faithful to its present appearance. + +I know not how it was, but I omitted to notice the ci-devant church of +_Ste. Claire_, where there is said to be the most ancient stained glass +window which exists--that is, of the middle of the thirteenth century; nor +did I obtain a sight of the seven pillars of _Adam Kraft_, designating the +seven points or stations of the Passion of our Saviour. But in the +_Rath-hauz Platz_, in the way to the public library, I used to look with +delight--almost every morning of the four days which I spent at +Nuremberg--at the fragments of gothic architecture, to the right and left, +that presented themselves; and among these, none caught my eye and pleased +my taste, so fully, as the little hexagonal gothic window, which has +sculptured subjects beneath the mullions, and which was attached to the +_Pfarrhof_, or clergyman's residence, of St. Sebald. If ever Mr. Blore's +pencil should be exercised in this magical city for gothic art, I am quite +persuaded that _this window_ will be one of the subjects upon which its +powers will be most successfully employed. + +A little beyond, in a very handsome square, called St. Giles's Place, lived +the famous ANTHONY KOBERGER; the first who introduced the art of printing +into Nuremberg--and from whose press, more Bibles, Councils, Decretals, +Chronicles, and scholastic works, have proceeded than probably from any +other press in Europe. Koberger was a magnificent printer, using always a +bold, rich, gothic letter--and his first book, _Comestorium Vitiorum_, +bears the date of 1470.[168] They shew the house, in this square, which he +is said to have occupied; but which I rather suspect was built by his +nephew JOHN KOBERGER, who was the son of Sebaldus Koberger, and who carried +on a yet more successful business than his uncle. Not fewer than seventeen +presses were kept in constant employ by him, and he is said to have been +engaged in a correspondence with almost every printer and bookseller in +Europe. It was my good fortune to purchase an original bronze head of him, +of _Messrs. Frauenholz_ and _Co_., one of the most respectable and +substantial houses, in the print trade, upon the Continent. This head is +struck upon a circular bronze of about seven inches in diameter, bearing +the following incription: JOANNES KOBERGER ... SEIN. ALTR. xxxx: that is, +John Koberger, in the fortieth year of his age. The head, singularly +enough, is _laureated;_ and in the upper part of it are two capital +letters, of which the top parts resemble a B or D--and F or E. It is a fine +solid piece of workmanship, and is full of individuality of character. From +an old ms. inscription at the back, the original should appear to have died +in 1522. I was of course too much interested in the history of the +Kobergers, not to ask permission, to examine the premises from which so +much learning and piety had once issued to the public; and I could not help +being struck with at least the _space_ which these premises occupied. At +the end of a yard, was a small chapel, which formerly was, doubtless, the +printing office or drying room of the Kobergers. The interior of the house +was now so completely devoted to other uses, that one could identify +nothing. The church of St. Giles, in this place, is scarcely little more +than a century old; as a print of it, of the date of 1689, represents the +building to be not yet complete. + +I shall now conduct the reader at once to the PUBLIC LIBRARY; premising, +that it occupies the very situation which it has held since the first book +was deposited in it. This is very rarely the case abroad. It is, in fact, a +small gothic quadrangle, with the windows modernised; and was formerly a +convent of _Dominicans_. M. RANNER, the public librarian, (with whom--as he +was unable to speak French, and myself equally unable to speak his own +language--I conversed in the Latin tongue) assured me that there was +anciently a printing press here--conducted by the Dominicans--who were +resolved to print no book but what was the production of one of their own +order. I have great doubts about this fact, and expressed the same to M. +Ranner; adding, that I had never seen a book so printed; The librarian, +however, reiterated his assertion, and said that the monastery was built in +the eleventh century. There is certainly no visible portion of it older +than the beginning of the fifteenth century. The library itself is on the +first floor, and fills two rooms, running parallel with each other; both of +them sufficiently dismal and uninviting. It is said to contain 45,000 +volumes; but I much question whether there be half that number. There are +some precious MSS. of which M. Ranner has published a catalogue in two +octavo volumes, in the Latin language, in a manner extremely creditable to +himself, and such as to render De Murr's labour upon the same subjects +almost useless. Among these MSS. I was shewn one in the Hebrew language--of +the eleventh or twelfth century--with very singular marginal illuminations, +as grotesques or capriccios; in which the figures, whether human beings, +monsters, or animals, were made out by _lines composed of Hebrew +characters_, considered to be a gloss upon the text. + +As to the _printed books_ of an early date, they are few and +unimportant--if the _subject_ of them be exclusively considered. There is a +woeful want of _classics_, and even of useful literary performances. Here, +however, I saw the far-famed _I. de Turrecremata Meditationes_ of 1467, +briefly described by De Murr; of which, I believe, only two other copies +are known to exist--namely, one in the Imperial library at Vienna,[169] and +the other in the collection of Earl Spencer. It is an exceedingly precious +book to the typographical antiquary, inasmuch as it is supposed to be the +first production of the press of _Ulric Han_. The copy in question has the +plates coloured; and, singularly enough, is bound up in a wooden cover with +_Honorius de Imagine Mundi_, printed by Koberger, and the _Hexameron_ of +_Ambrosius_, printed by Schuzler in 1472. It is, however, a clean, sound +copy; but cut down to the size of the volumes with which it is bound. Here +is the _Boniface_ of 1465, by Fust, UPON VELLUM: with a large space on the +rectos of the second and third leaves, purposely left for the insertion of +ms. or some subsequent correction. The _Durandus of_ 1459 has the first +capital letter stamped with red and blue, like the smaller capital initials +in the Psalter of 1457. In this first capital initial, the blue is the +outer portion of the letter. The _German Bible by Mentelin_ is perfect; but +wretchedly cropt, and dirty even to dinginess. Here is a very fine large +genuine copy of _Jenson's Quintilian_ of 1471. Of the _Epistles of St. +Jerom_, here are the early editions by _Mentelin_ and _Sweynheym_ and +_Pannartz_; the latter, of the date of 1470: a fine, large copy--but not +free from ms. annotations. + +More precious, however, in the estimation of the critical +bibliographer--than either, or the whole, of the preceding volumes--is the +very rare edition of the _Decameron of Boccaccio_, of the date of 1472, +printed at _Mantua, by A. de Michaelibus_.[170] Such a copy as that in the +public library at Nuremberg, is in all probability unparalleled: it being, +in every respect, what a perfect copy should be--white, large, and in its +pristine binding. A singular coincidence took place, while I was examining +this extraordinarily rare book. M. Lechner, the bookseller, of whom I shall +have occasion to speak again, brought me a letter, directed to his own +house, from Earl Spencer. In that letter, his lordship requested me to make +a particular collation of the edition of Boccaccio--with which I was +occupied at the _very moment of receiving it_. Of course, upon every +account, that collation was made. Upon its completion, and asking M. Ranner +whether any consideration would induce the curators of the library to part +with this volume, the worthy librarian shouted aloud!... adding, that, "not +many weeks before, an English gentleman had offered the sum of sixty louis +d'or for it,--but not _twice_ that sum could be taken!... and in fact the +book must never leave its present quarters--no ... not even for the noble +collection in behalf of which I pleaded so earnestly." M. Ranner's manner +was so positive, and his voice so sonorous,--that I dreaded the submission +of any contre-projet ... and accordingly left him in the full and +unmolested enjoyment of his beloved Decameron printed by _Adam de +Michaelibus_. + +M. Ranner shewed me a sound, fair copy of the _first Florentine Homer_ of +1488; but cropt, with red edges to the leaves. But I was most pleased with +a sort of cupboard, or closet-fashioned recess, filled with the first and +subsequent editions of all the pieces written by _Melancthon_, I was told +that there were more than eight hundred of such pieces. These, and a +similar collection from the pens of _Luther_ and _Eckuis_ at Landshut,[171] +would, as I conceive, be invaluable repertories for the _History of the +Reformation upon the Continent_. Although I examined many shelves of books, +for two successive days, in the Public Library of Nuremberg, I am not +conscious of having found any thing more deserving of detail than what has +been already submitted to the reader. + +Of all edifices, more especially deserving of being visited at Nuremberg, +the CITADEL is doubtless the most curious and ancient, as well as the most +remarkable. It rises to a considerable height, close upon the outer walls +of the town, within about a stone's throw of the end of _Albrecht Durer +Strasse_--or the street where ALBERT DURER lived--and whose house is not +only yet in existence, but still the object of attraction and veneration +with every visitor of taste, from whatever part of the world he may chance +to come. The street running down, is the street called (as before observed) +after Albert Durer's own name; and the _well_, seen about the middle of it, +is a specimen of those wells--built of stone--which are very common in the +streets of Nuremberg. The house of Albert Durer is now in a very wretched, +and even unsafe condition. The upper part is supposed to have been his +study. The interior is so altered from its original disposition, as to +present little or nothing satisfactory to the antiquary. It would be +difficult to say how many coats of whitewash have been bestowed upon the +rooms, since the time when they were tenanted by the great character in +question. + +Passing through this street, therefore, you turn to the right, and continue +onwards, up a pretty smart ascent; when the entrance to the citadel, by the +side of a low wall--in front of an old tower--presents itself to your +attention. It was before breakfast that my companion and self visited this +interesting interior, over every part of which we were conducted by a most +loquacious _cicerone_, who spoke the French language very fluently, and who +was pleased to express his extreme gratification upon finding that his +visitors were _Englishmen_. The tower, of the exterior of which there is a +very indifferent engraving in the _Singularia Norimbergensia_, and the +adjoining chapel, may be each of the thirteenth century; but the tombstone +of the founder of the monastery, upon the site of which the present Citadel +was built, bears the date of 1296. This tombstone is very perfect; lying in +a loose, unconnected manner, as you enter the chapel:--the chapel itself +having a crypt-like appearance. This latter is very small. + +From the suite of apartments in the older parts of the Citadel, there is a +most extensive and uninterrupted view of the surrounding country, which is +rather flat. At the distance of about nine miles, the town of _Furth_ +(Furta) looks as if it were within an hour's walk; and I should think that +the height of the chambers, (from which we enjoyed this view,) to the level +ground of the adjacent meadows, could be scarcely less than three hundred +feet. In these chambers, there is a little world of curiosity for the +antiquary: and yet it was but too palpable that very many of its more +precious treasures had been transported to Munich. In the time of +Maximilian II., when Nuremberg may be supposed to have been in the very +height of its glory, this Citadel must have been worth a pilgrimage of many +score miles to have visited. The ornaments which remain are chiefly +pictures; of which several are exceedingly precious. Our guide hastened to +show us the celebrated two Venuses of _Lucas Cranach_, which are most +carefully preserved within folding doors. They are both whole lengths, of +the size of life. One of them, which is evidently the inferior picture, is +attended by a Cupid; the other is alone, having on a broad red velvet +hat--but, in other respects, undraped. For this latter picture, we were +told that two hundred louis d'or had been offered and refused--which they +well might have been; for I consider it to be, not the only chef-d'oeuvre +of L. Cranach, but in truth a very extraordinary performance. There is +doubtless something of a poverty of drawing about it; but the colouring +glows with a natural warmth which has been rarely surpassed even by Titian. +It is one of the most elaborated pictures--yet producing a certain breadth +of effect--which can be seen. The other Venus is perhaps more carefully +painted--but the effect is cold and poor. + +Here is also, by the same artist, a masterly little head of _St. Hubert_; +and, near it, a charming portrait of _Luther's wife_, by Hans Holbein; but +the back-ground of the latter being red and comparatively recent, is +certainly not by the same hand. The countenance is full of a sweet, natural +expression; and if this portrait be a faithful one of the wife of Luther, +we must give that great reformer credit for having had a good taste in the +choice of a wife--as far as _beauty_ is concerned. Here are supposed +portraits of _Charlemagne and Sigismund II.,_ by Albert Durer--which +exhibit great freedom of handling, and may be considered magnificent +specimens of that master's better manner of portrait painting. The heads +are rather of colossal size. The draperies are most elaborately executed. I +observed here, with singular satisfaction, _two_ of the well-known series +of the TWELVE APOSTLES, supposed to be both painted and engraved by Albert +Durer. They were _St. John_ and _St. Paul_; the drapery, especially of the +latter, has very considerable merit. But probably the most interesting +picture to the generality of visitors--and indeed it is one entitled to +particular commendation by the most curious and critical--is, a large +painting, by _Sandrart_, representing a fete given by the Austrian +Ambassador, at Nuremberg, upon the conclusion of the treaty of peace at +Westphalia, in 1649, after the well known thirty year's war. This picture +is about fourteen feet long, by ten wide. The table, at which the guests +are banquetting, is filled by all the great characters who were then +assembled upon the occasion. An English knight of the garter is +sufficiently conspicuous; his countenance in three quarters, being turned +somewhat over his left shoulder. The great fault of this picture is, making +the guests to partake of a banquet, and yet to turn all their faces _from +it_--in order that the spectator may recognise their countenances. Those +who sit at table, are about half the size of life. To the right of them, is +a group as large as life, in which Sandrart has introduced himself, as if +painting the picture. His countenance is charmingly coloured; but it is a +pity that all propriety of perspective is so completely lost, by placing +two such differently sized groups in the same chamber. This picture stands +wofully in need of being repaired. It is considered--and apparently with +justice--to be the CHEF D'OEUVRE of the master. I have hardly ever seen a +picture, of its kind, more thoroughly interesting--both on the score of +subject and execution; but it is surely due to the memory of an artist, +like Sandrart,--who spent the greater part of a long life at Nuremberg, and +established an academy of painting there--that this picture ... be at least +_preserved_ ... if there be no means of engraving it. + +In these curious old chambers, it was to be expected that I should see some +_Wohlegemuths_--as usual, with backgrounds in a blaze of gold, and figures +with tortuous limbs, pinched-in waists, and caricatured countenances. In a +room, pretty plentifully encumbered with rubbish, I saw a charming +_Snyders;_ being a dead stag, suspended from a pole. There is here a +portrait of _Albert Durer_, by himself; but said to be a copy. If so, it is +a very fine copy. The original is supposed to be at Munich. There was +nothing else that my visit enabled me to see, particularly deserving of +being recorded; but, when I was told that it was in THIS CITADEL that the +ancient Emperors of Germany used oftentimes to reside, and make carousal, +and when I saw, _now_, scarcely any thing but dark passages, unfurnished +galleries, naked halls, and untenanted chambers--I own that I could hardly +refrain from uttering a sigh over the mutability of earthly fashions, and +the transitoriness of worldly grandeur. With a rock for its base, and walls +almost of adamant for its support--situated also upon an eminence which may +be said to look frowningly down over a vast sweep of country--THE CITADEL +OF NUREMBERG should seem to have bid defiance, in former times, to every +assault of the most desperate and enterprising foe. It is now visited only +by the casual traveller ... who is frequently startled at the echo of his +own footsteps. + +While I am on the subject of ancient art--of which so many curious +specimens are to be seen in this Citadel--it may not be irrelevant to +conduct the reader at once to what is called the _Town Hall_--a very large +structure--of which portions are devoted to the exhibition of old pictures. +Many of these paintings are in a very suspicious state, from the operations +of time and accident; but the great boast of the collection are the +Triumphs of Maximilian I, executed by _Albert Durer_--which, however, have +by no means escaped injury. I was accompanied in my visit to this +interesting collection by Mr. Boerner, a partner in the house of Frauenholz +and Co.--and had particular reason to be pleased by the friendliness of his +attentions, and by the intelligence of his observations. A great number of +these pictures (as I understood) belonged to Messrs. Frauenholz and Co.; +and among them, a portrait by _Pens_, struck me as being singularly +admirable and exquisite. The countenance, the dress, the attitude, the +drawing and colouring, were as perfect as they well might be. But this +collection has also suffered from the transportation of many of its +treasures to Munich. The rooms, halls, and corridors of this Hotel de Ville +give you a good notion of municipal grandeur. + +Nuremberg was once the life and soul of _art_ as well as of _commerce_. The +numismatic, or perhaps medallic, productions of her artists, in the XVIth +century, might, many of them, vie with the choicest efforts of Greece. I +purchased two silver medals, of the period just mentioned, which are +absolutely perfect of their kind: one has, on the obverse, the profile of +an old man with a flowing beard and short bonnet, with the circumscription +of _AEtatis Suae LXVI._; and, on the reverse, the words _De Coelo Victoria. +Anno M.D. XLVI._ surrounding the arms of Bavaria. I presume the head to be +a portrait of some ancient Bavarian General; and the inscription, on the +reverse, to relate to some great victory, in honour of which the medal was +struck. The piece is silver-gilt. The boldness of its relief can hardly be +exceeded. The other medal represents the portrait of _Joh. Petreius +Typographus, Anno AEtat. Suae._ IIL. (48), _Anno_ 1545--executed with +surprising delicacy, expression, and force. But evidences of the perfect +state of art in ancient times, at Nuremberg, may be gathered from almost +every street in which the curious visitor walks. On the first afternoon of +my arrival here, I was driven, by a shower of rain, into a small shop--upon +a board, on the exterior of which were placed culinary dishes. The mistress +of the house had been cleaning them for the purpose of shewing them off to +advantage on the Sunday. One of these dishes--which was brass, with +ornaments in high relief--happened to be rather deep, but circular, and of +small diameter. I observed a subject in relief, at the bottom, which looked +very like art as old as the end of the fifteenth century--although a good +deal worn away, from the regularity pf periodical rubbing. The subject +represented the eating of the forbidden fruit. Adam, Eve, the Serpent, the +trees, and the fruit--with labels, on which the old gothic German letter +was sufficiently obvious--all told a tale which was irresistible to +antiquarian feelings. Accordingly I proposed terms of purchase (one ducat) +to the good owner of the dish:--who was at first exceedingly surprised at +the offer ... wondering what could be seen so particularly desirable in +such a homely piece of kitchen furniture ... but, in the end, she consented +to the proposal with extraordinary cheerfulness. In another shop, on a +succeeding day, I purchased two large brass dishes, of beautiful circular +forms, with ornaments in bold relief--and brought the whole culinary cargo +home with me. While upon the subject of _old art_--of which there are +scarcely a hundred yards in the city of Nuremberg that do not display some +memorial, however perishing--I must be allowed to make especial mention of +the treasures of BARON DERSCHAU--a respectable old Prussian nobleman, who +has recently removed into a capacious residence, of which the chambers in +front contain divers old pictures; and one chamber in particular, backward, +is filled with curiosities of a singular variety of description.[172] I had +indeed heard frequent mention of this gentleman, both in Austria and +Bavaria. His reception of me was most courteous, and his conversation +communicative and instructive. He _did_, and did _not_, dispose of things. +He _was_, and was _not_, a sort of gentleman-merchant. One drawer was +filled with ivory handled dirks, hunting knives, and pipe-bowls; upon which +the carver had exercised all his cunning skill. Another drawer contained +implements of destruction in the shape of daggers, swords, pistols, and +cutlasses: all curiously wrought. A set of _Missals_ occupied a third +drawer: portfolios of drawings and _prints_, a fourth; and sundry +_volumes_, of various and not uninteresting character, filled the shelves +of a small, contiguous book-case. Every thing around me bore the aspect of +_temptation_; when, calling upon my tutelary genius to defend me in such a +crisis, I accepted the Baron's offer, and sat down by the side of him upon +a sofa--which, from the singularity of its form and _materiel_, might +formerly possibly have supported the limbs of Albert Durer himself. + +The Baron commenced the work of _incantation_ by informing me that he was +once in possession of the _journal_, or day-book, of Albert Durer:--written +in the German language--and replete with the most curious information +respecting the manner of his own operations, and of those of his workmen. +From this journal, it appeared that Albert Durer was in the habit of +_drawing upon the blocks_, and that his men performed the remaining +operation of _cutting away the wood_. I frankly confessed that I had long +suspected this: and still suspect the same process to have been used in +regard to the wood cuts supposed to have been executed by _Hans Holbein_. +On my eagerly enquiring what had become of this precious journal, the Baron +replied with a sigh--which seemed to come from the very bottom of his +heart--that "it had perished in the flames of a house, in the neighbourhood +of one of the battles fought between Bonaparte and the Prussians!!" The +Baron is both a man of veracity and virtu. In confirmation of the latter, +he gave all his very extraordinary collection of original blocks of wood, +containing specimens of art of the most remote period of wood engraving, to +the Royal University at Berlin--from which collection has been regularly +published, those livraisons, of an atlas form, which contain impressions of +the old blocks in question.[173] It is hardly possible for a graphic +antiquary to possess a more completely characteristic and _beguiling_ +publication than this. + +On expressing a desire to purchase any little curiosity or antiquity, in +the shape of _book_ or _print_, for which the Baron had no immediate use, I +was shewn several rarities of this kind; which I did not scruple to request +might be laid aside for me--for the purpose of purchasing. Of these, in the +book way, the principal were a _Compendium Morale_: a Latin folio, PRINTED +UPON VELLUM, without date or name of printer--and so completely unknown to +bibliographers, that Panzer, who had frequently had this very volume in his +hands, was meditating the writing of a little treatise on it; and was +interrupted only by death from carrying his design into execution. It is in +the most perfect state of preservation. A volume of _Hours_, and a +_Breviary of Cracow_, for the winter part, PRINTED UPON VELLUM--in the +German language, exceedingly fair and beautiful. A TERENCE of 1496 (for 9 +florins), and the first edition of _Erasmus's Greek Testament_, 1516, for +18 florins. The "_Compendium"_ was charged by the Baron at about 5_l_. +sterling. These, with the Austrian historians, Pez, Schard, and Nidanus, +formed a tolerably fair acquisition.[174] In the _print_ way, I was +fortunate in purchasing a singularly ancient wood-cut of _St. Catherine_, +in the peculiarly dotted manner of the fifteenth century. This wood-cut was +said to be UNIQUE. At any rate it is very curious and rare; and on my +return to England, M. Du Chesne, who is the active director in the +department of the prints at Paris, prevailed upon me to part with my St. +Catherine--at a price, which sufficiently shewed that he considered it to +be no very indifferent object to the royal collection of France. This +however was a perfectly secondary consideration. The print was left behind +at Paris, as adding something to a collection of unrivalled value and +extent, and where there were previously deposited two or three similar +specimens of art. + +But the Baron laid the greatest stress upon a copper plate impression of a +crucifixion, of the date of 1430: which undoubtedly had a very staggering +aspect.[175] It is described in the subjoined note; and for reasons, +therein detailed, I consider it to be much less valuable than the _St. +Catherine_.[176] I also purchased of the Baron a few _Martin Schoens, +Albert Durers_, and _Israel Van Mechlins_; and what I preferred to either, +is a beautiful little illumination, cut out of an old choral book, or +psalter, said, by the vendor, to be the production of _Weimplan_, an +artist, at Ulm, of the latter end of the fifteenth century. On my return to +England, I felt great pleasure in depositing this choice morceau of ancient +art in the very extraordinary collection of my friend Mr. Ottley--at the +same price for which I had obtained it--about five and twenty shillings. +Upon the whole, I was well satisfied with the result of the "temptation" +practised upon me at Baron Derschau's, and left the mansion with my purse +lightened of about 340 florins. The Baron was anxious to press a choice +_Aldus_ or two upon me; but the word "choice" is somewhat ambiguous: and +what was considered to be so at _Nuremberg_, might receive a different +construction in _London_. I was, however, anxious to achieve a much nobler +feat than that of running away with undescribed printed volumes, or rare +old prints--whether from copper or wood. It was at Nuremberg that the EBNER +FAMILY had long resided: and where the _Codex Ebnerianus_--a Greek MS. of +the New Testament, of the XIIth. century--had been so much celebrated by +the elaborate disquisition of De Murr--which is accompanied by several +copper plate fac-simile engravings of the style of art in the illuminations +of the MS. in question. I had heard that the ancient splendors of the Ebner +family had been long impaired; that their library had been partly +dispersed; and that THIS VERY MS. was yet to be purchased. I resolved, +therefore, to lose no opportunity of becoming possessed of it ... preparing +myself to offer a very considerable sum, and trusting that the spirit of +some private collector, or public body, in my own country, would not long +allow it to be a burden on my hands. Accordingly, by the interposition and +kind offices of M. Lechner, the bookseller, I learnt, not only in what +quarter the MS. was yet preserved, but that its owners were willing to +dispose of it for a valuable consideration. A day and hour were quickly +appointed. The gentleman, entrusted with the MS.--M. Lechner as +interpreter, my own valet, as interpreter between myself and M. Lechner, +who could not speak French very fluently--all assembled at the _Cheval +Rouge_: with the CODEX EBNERIANUS, bound in massive silver, lying upon the +table between us. It is a small, thick quarto volume; written in the +cursive Greek character, upon soft and fair coloured vellum, and adorned +with numerous illuminations in a fine state of preservation. Its antiquity +cannot surely be carried beyond the XIIth century. On the outside of one of +the covers, is a silver crucifix. Upon the whole, this precious book, both +from its interior and exterior attractions, operated upon me infinitely +more powerfully than the ivory-handled knives, gilt-studded daggers, +gorgeous scraps of painting, or antique-looking prints ... of the Baron +Derschau. + +We soon commenced an earnest conversation; all four of us frequently being +upon our legs, and speaking, at the same time. The price was quickly fixed +by the owner of the MS.; but not so readily consented to by the proposed +purchaser. It was 120 louis d'or. I adhered to the offer of 100: and we +were each inflexible in our terms. I believe indeed, that if my 100 louis +d'or could have been poured from a bag upon the table, as +"argent-comptant," the owner of the MS. _could_ not have resisted the +offer: but he seemed to think that, if paper currency, in the shape of a +bill, were resorted to, it would not be prudent to adopt that plan unless +the sum of 120l. were written upon the instrument. The conference ended by +the MS. being carried back to be again deposited in the family where it had +so long taken up its abode. It is, however, most gratifying for me to add, +that its return to its ancient quarters was only temporary; and that it was +destined to be taken from them, for ever, by British spirit and British +liberality. When Mr. John Payne visited Germany, in the following year, I +was anxious to give him some particulars about this MS. and was sanguine +enough to think that a second attempt to carry it off could not fail to be +successful. The house of Messrs. Payne and Foss, so long and justly +respected throughout Europe, invested their young representative with ample +powers for negotiation--and the _Codex Ebnerianus_, after having been +purchased by the representative in question, for the sum first insisted +upon by the owner--now reposes upon the richly furnished shelves of the +BODLEIAN LIBRARY--where it is not likely to repose _in vain_; and from +whence no efforts, by the most eminently successful bibliographical +diplomatist in Europe, can dislodge it. + +I must now say a few words respecting the present state of the FINE ARTS at +Nuremberg, and make mention of a few things connected with the vicinity of +the town, ere I conduct the reader to Manheim: regretting, however, that I +am necessitated to make that account so summary. I consider M. KLEIN to be +among the very brightest ornaments of this place, as an artist. I had seen +enough of his productions at Vienna, to convince me that his pencil +possessed no ordinary powers. He is yet a young man; somewhere between +thirty and forty, and leads occasionally a very romantic life--but +admirably subservient to the purposes of his art. He puts a knapsack upon +his back, filled with merely necessary articles of linen and materials for +work--and then stops, draws, eats, drinks, and sleeps where it pleases him: +wherever his eye is gratified by strong characteristics of nature--whether +on cattle, peasants, soldiers, or Cossacks. + +Klein appears to have obtained his exquisite knowledge of animal painting +from having been a pupil of GABLER--a professed studier of natural history, +and painter of animals. The pupil was unluckily absent from Nuremberg, when +I was there; but from many enquiries of his ultimate friends, I learnt that +he was of a cheerful, social disposition--fond of good company, and was in +particular a very active and efficient member of a _Society of Artists_, +which has been recently established at Nuremberg. Klein himself, however, +resides chiefly at Vienna--there not being sufficient patronage for him in +his native city. His water-coloured drawings, in particular, are considered +admirable; but he has lately commenced painting in oil--with considerable +success. His _etchings_, of which he has published about one hundred, are +in general masterly; but perhaps they are a little too metallic and severe. +His observation of nature is at once acute and correct. + +In the neighbourhood of Nuremberg--that is to say, scarcely more than an +English mile from thence--are the grave and tomb-stone of ALBERT DURER. Dr. +Bright having printed that artist's epitaph at length[177]--and it being +found in most biographical details relating to him--it need not be here +repeated. The monument is simple and striking. In the churchyard, there is +a representation of the Crucifixion, cut in stone. It was on a fine, calm +evening, just after sunset, that I first visited the tombstone of Albert +Durer; and shall always remember the sensations, with which that visit was +attended, as among the most pleasing and impressive of my life. The silence +of the spot,--its retirement from the city--the falling shadows of night, +and the increasing solemnity of every monument of the dead--- together with +the mysterious, and even awful effect, produced by the colossal crucifix... +but yet perhaps, more than either, the recollection of the extraordinary +talents of the artist, so quietly sleeping beneath my feet ... all +conspired to produce a train of reflections which may be readily conceived, +but not so readily described. If ever a man deserved to be considered as +the glory of his age and nation, ALBERT DURER was surely that man. He was, +in truth, the Shakspeare of his art--for the _period_. + +Notwithstanding I had made every enquiry among the principal booksellers, +of _Antiquars_, [178] for rare and curious old volumes, I literally found +nothing worth purchasing. The Baron Derschau was doubtless my best friend +on this score. Yet I was told that, if I would put a pair of horses to my +carriage, and drive, to _Furth_--a short two German mile stage from +Nuremberg, and which indeed I had distinctly seen from the windows of the +citadel--I should find there, at a certain Antiquar's, called HEERDEGEN, an +endless, variety of what was precious and curious in the department of +which I was in search. Accordingly, I put the wheels of my carriage in +motion, within twenty-four hours of receiving the intelligence. The road to +Furth is raised from the level of the surrounding country, and well paved +in the centre. It is also lined by poplar trees, a great part of the way. I +have reason to remember this visit for many a long day. Having drove to M. +Heerdegen's door, I was received with sufficient courtesy; and was told to +mount to the top of the house, where the more ancient books were kept, +while he, M. Heerdegen, settled a little business below. That business +consisted in selling so many old folios, by the pound weight, in great +wooden scales;--the vendor, all the time, keeping up a cheerful and +incessant conversation. The very _sight_ of this transaction was sufficient +to produce an hysterical affection--and, instead of mounting upwards, I +stood--stock still--wondering at such an act of barbarity! Having requested +permission to open the volumes in question, and finding them to contain +decretals, and glosses upon councils, I recovered myself by degrees ... and +leisurely walked to the very topmost floor of the house. + +M. Heerdegen was not long after me. He is a most naif character; and when +he is pleased with a customer, he presents him with an india ink drawing of +his own portrait. On receiving this testimony of his approbation, I did not +fail to make my proper acknowledgements: but, with respect to the books +with which I was to load my carriage, there was scarcely a shadow of hope, +of even securing a dozen volumes worth transporting to the banks of the +Rhine. However, after three hours pretty severe labour--having opened and +rejected I know not how many books of Medicine, Civil and Canon Law, +Scholastic Divinity, Commentaries upon Aristotle, and disputations +connected with Duns Scotus, together with a great number of later +impressions of the Latin Bible in the XVth century--I contrived to get a +good _Latin Plutarch_, some pretty Aldine octavos, a few _Lochers_ and +_Brandts_, a rare little German poetical tract, of four leaves, called the +_Wittemberg Nightingale_, and an _Italian Bible_ printed by the _Giuntae_, +which had belonged to _Melancthon_, and contained his autograph:--all +which, with some pieces by _Eckius_, _Schottus_, and _Erasmus_, to the +amount of 4_l._ 4_s._ of English money, were conveyed with great pomp and +ceremony below. + +However, I had not been long with M. Heerdegen, before a clergyman, of +small stature and spare countenance, made his appearance and saluted me. He +had seen the carriage pass, and learnt, on enquiry, that the traveller +within it had come expressly to see M. Heerdegen. He introduced himself as +the curate of the neighbouring church, of which M. Fronmueller was the +rector or pastor: adding, that _his own_ church was the only place of +Christian worship in the village. This intelligence surprised me; but the +curate, whose name was _Link_, continued thus: "This town, Sir, consists of +a population of ten thousand souls, of which four-fifths are _Jews;_ who +are strictly forbidden to sleep within the walls of Nuremberg. It is only +even by a sort of courtesy, or sufferance, that they are allowed to +transact business there during the day time." M. Link then begged I would +accompany him to his own church, and to the rector's house--taking his own +house in the way. There was nothing particularly deserving of notice in the +church, which has little claim to antiquity. It had, however, a good organ. +The rector was old and infirm. I did not see him, but was well pleased with +his library, which is at once scholar-like and professional. The library of +the curate was also excellent of its kind, though limited, from the +confined means of its owner. It is surprising upon what small stipends the +Protestant clergy live abroad; and if I were to mention that of M. Link, I +should only excite the scepticism of my readers. + +I was then conducted through the village--which abounded with dirty figures +and dirty faces. The women and female children were particularly +disgusting, from the little attention paid to cleanliness. The men and boys +were employed in work, which accounted for their rough appearance. The +place seems to swarm with population--and if a plague, or other epidemic +disorder should prevail, I can hardly conceive a scene in which it is +likely to make more dreadful havoc than at _Furth_. Although I had not +obtained any thing _very special_ at this place, in the book way, I was yet +glad to have visited it--were it only for the sake of adding one more +original character to the _bibliopolistic fraternity_ upon the +Continent. In spite of the very extraordinary _line_ of business which M. +Heerdegen chooses to follow, I have reason to think that he "turns a good +penny" in the course of the year; but own that it was with surprise I +learnt that Mr. Bohn, the bookseller of Frith Street,[179] had preceded me +in my visit--and found some historical folios which he thought well worth +the expense of conveyance to England. + +It remains only to return for a few hours to Nuremberg, and then to conduct +the reader to Manheim. One of the four days, during which I remained at +Nuremberg, happened to be _Sunday_; and of all places upon the Continent, +Sunday is, at Nuremberg, among the gayest and most attractive. The weather +was fine, and the whole population was alternately within and without the +city walls. Some Bavarian troops of cavalry were exercising near the public +walks, and of course a great multitude was collected to witness their +manoeuvres. On casting my eye over this concourse of people, attired in +their best clothes, I was particularly struck with the head dresses of the +women: composed chiefly of broad-stiffened riband, of different colours, +which is made to stick out behind in a flat manner--not to be described +except by the pencil of my graphic companion. The figure, seen in the +frontispiece of the third volume of this work, is that of the _Fille de +chambre_ at our hotel, who was habited in her Sunday attire; and it +displays in particular the riband head-dress--which was of black +water-tabby sarsenet. But as these ribands are of different colours, and +many of them gay and gorgeous, their appearance, in the open air--and where +a great number of people is collected, and in constant motion--is that, as +it were, of so many moving suns. In general, the _Nurembergeoises_ have +little pretensions to beauty: they are; however, active, civil, and +intelligent. + +It is rarely one takes leave of an hotel with regret when every days +journey brings us sensibly nearer home. But it is due to the kind treatment +and comfortable lodgings, of which I partook at Nuremberg; to say, that no +traveller can leave the _Cheval Rouge_ without at least wishing that all +future inns which he visits may resemble it. We left Nuremberg after +dinner, resolving to sleep at _Ansbach_; of which place the Margrave and +Margravine were sufficiently distinguished in our own country. I had +received a letter of introduction to Monsieur Le Comte de Drechsel, +President de la Regence--and President of the corporation of +Nuremberg--respecting the negotiation for the Boccaccio of 1472; from +which, however, I augured no very favourable result. The first stage from +Nuremberg is _Kloster Heilbronn_: where, on changing horses, the master of +the inn pressed me hard to go and visit the old church, which gives the +name to the village, and which was said to contain some curious old +paintings by Albert Durer: but there was literally no time--and I began to +be tired ... almost of Albert Durers! At Ansbach we drove to the _Crown_, a +large and excellent inn. It was nightfall when we entered the town, but not +so dark as to render the size and extent of the Margrave's palace +invisible, nor so late as to render a visit to two booksellers, after a +late cup of tea, impracticable. At one place, I found something in the +shape of old books, but purchased nothing--except an edition of Boccaccio's +Tales, in French, with the well known plates of Roman Le Hooge, 1701. 8vo. +It was loosely bound in sorry calf, but a florin could not be considered +too much for it, even in its sombre state. The other bookseller supplied, +by the tender of his friendly offices, the deficiencies of his +collection--which, in fact, consisted of nothing but a stock of modern +publications. + +The next morning I visited the Comte Drechsel--having first written him a +note, and gently touched upon the point at issue. He received me with +courtesy; and I found him particularly intelligent--but guarded in every +expression connected with any thing like the indulgence, even of a hope, of +obtaining the precious volume in question. He would submit my proposition +to the municipality. He understood English perfectly well, and spoke French +fluently. I had received intimation of a collection of rare and curious old +books, belonging to a Mr...., in the environs of Ansbach; who, having +recently experienced some misfortunes, had meditated the sale of his +library. The owner had a pretty country house, scarcely a stone's throw +from the outskirts of the town, and I saw his wife and children--but no +books. I learnt that these latter were conveyed to the town for the purpose +of sale; and having seen a few of them, I left a commission for a copy of +_Fust and Schoeffher's_ edition of Pope Boniface's Councils of 1465, UPON +VELLUM. I have never heard of the result of the sale. + +From Ansbach to _Heilbronn_, which can be scarcely less than sixty English +miles, few things struck me on the road more forcibly than the remains of a +small old church and cloisters at _Feuchtwang_--where we stopped to change +horses, the first stage after Ansbach. It rained heavily, and we had only +time to run hastily through these very curious old relics, which, if +appearances formed the test of truth, might, from the colour of the stone +and the peculiarity of the structure, have been old enough to designate the +first christian place of worship established in Germany. The whole, +however, was upon a singularly small scale. I earnestly recommend every +English antiquary to stop longer than we did at Feuchtwang. From thence to +_Heilbronn_, we passed many a castle-crowned summit, of which the base and +adjacent country were covered by apparently impenetrable forests of fir and +elm; but regretted exceedingly that it was quite nightfall when we made the +very steep and _nervous_ entrance into _Hall_--down a mountainous descent, +which seemed to put the carriage on an inclined plane of forty-five +degrees. We were compelled to have four horses, on making the opposite +ascent; and were even preceded by boys, with links and torches, over a +small bridge, under which runs a precipitous and roaring stream. Hall is a +large, lively, and much frequented town. + +_Heilbronn_, or _Hailbrunn_, is a large consequential town; and parts of it +are spacious, as well as curious from appearances of antiquity. The large +square, where we changed horses, was sufficiently striking; and the Hotel +de ville in particular was worthy of being copied by the pencil of my +companion. But we were only passing travellers, anxious to reach Manheim +and to cross the Rhine. The country about Heilbronn is picturesque and +fertile, and I saw enough to convince me that two days residence there +would not be considered as time thrown away. It is one of the principal +towns in the kingdom of Wirtemberg, and situated not many leagues from the +Black Forest, or _Schwartz Wald_, where wild boars and other wild animals +abound, and where St. Hubert (for aught I know to the contrary) keeps his +nocturnal revels in some hitherto unfrequented glen ... beneath the +radiance of an unclouded moon. + +But if _Heilbronn_ be attractive, from the imposing appearance of the +houses, _Heidelberg_ is infinitely more so; containing a population of nine +thousand inhabitants. We reached this latter place at dinner time, on +Sunday--but as it rained heavily for the last hour previous to our +entrance, we could not take that survey of the adjacent country which we so +much desired to do. Yet we saw sufficient to delight us infinitely: having +travelled along the banks of the river _Neckhar_ for the last three or four +miles, observing the beautifully wood-crowned hills on the opposite side. +But it is the CASTLE, or OLD PALACE of HEIDELBERG--where the Grand Dukes of +Baden, or old Electors Palatine, used to reside--and where the celebrated +TUN, replenished with many a score hogshead of choice Rhenish wine--form +the grand objects of attraction to the curious traveller. The palace is a +striking edifice more extensive than any thing I had previously seen; but +in the general form of its structure, so like _Holland House_ at +Kensington, that I hesitated not one moment to assign the commencement of +the sixteenth century, as the period of the building in question. The date +of 1607,[180] cut in stone, over one of the principal doors, confirmed my +conjecture. + +I now looked eagerly on all sides--observing what portions were more or +less dilapidated, and wondering at the extent and magnificence of the +building. Room after room, corridor succeeding corridor--saloons, +galleries, banquetting apartments, each and all denuded of its once +princely furniture--did not fail to strike my imagination most forcibly. +Here was the _Hall of Chivalry_, which had been rent asunder by lightning: +yonder, a range of statues of the old _Electors Counts Palatine_:--a tier +of granite columns stood in another direction, which had equally defied the +assaults of the foe and the ravages of time. In one part, looking down, I +observed an old square tower, which had been precipitated in consequence +(as I learnt) of an explosion of gunpowder. It was doubtless about a +century older than the building from which I observed it. On an eminence, +almost smothered with larch and lime, and nearly as much above ourselves as +we were from the town, stand the ruins of another old castle ... the +residence of the older Counts Palatine. The whole scene was full of +enchantment to an antiquarian traveller; and I scarcely knew how to quit +one portion of it for another. + +The terrace, at the back of the castle, forms a noble and commanding walk. +Here, in former days, the counts and dukes of the empire, with all their +trains of duchesses and damoiselles, used to parade in full pomp and +magnificence, receiving the homage of their dependants, and the applause of +the townsmen. From hence, indeed, they might have looked down, in the proud +spirit of disdain, upon their vassal subjects:--or, in case of rebellion, +have planted their cannon and pulverised their habitations in a little +hour. It is hardly possible to conceive a more magnificent situation ... +but now, all is silence and solitude. The wild boar intrudes with impunity +into the gardens--and the fowls of heaven roost within those spacious +chambers, which were once hung with rich arras, or covered with gorgeous +tapestry. Scarcely three human beings ... who seem to sleep out their +existence ... are now the tenants of THAT MANSION, where once scarcely +fewer than one hundred noblemen with their attendants, found comfortable +accommodations. A powerful, and yet not unpleasing melancholy, touches the +heart ... as one moves leisurely along these speaking proofs of the +mutability of earthly grandeur. + +No man visits this proud palace without visiting also the equally +celebrated TUN--of which _Merian_, in his well known views, has supplied us +with a print or two. It is placed in the lower regions of the palace, in a +room by itself--except that, by the side of it, there stands a small cask +which may hold a hogshead, and which is considered to be the _ne plus +ultra_ of the art of cooperage. It is made in the neatest and closest- +fitting manner imaginable, without either a nail, or piece of iron, or +encircling hoop; and I believe it to be nearly as old as the _great Tun_. +This latter monstrous animal, of his species, is supported by ribs--of +rather a picturesque appearance--which run across the belly of the cask, at +right angles with the staves. As a WINE CASK, it has long maintained its +proud distinction of being the _largest in the world_. A stair-case is to +the right of it, leading to a little square platform at the top; upon which +frolicksome lads and lasses used, in former days, to dance, when the tub +had been just filled with the produce of the passing year's vintage. The +guide told us that one Elector or Grand Duke, I think it was CHARLES +THEODORE, had immortalised himself, by having, during his regency, caused +the great tun of Heidelberg to be fairly _twice emptied_;--"those (added +he) were golden days, never to return. At present, and for a long time +past, the cask is filled almost to the very top with _mere lees_." In an +adjoining cellar, I was shewn a set of casks, standing perpendicularly, +called the _Twelve Apostles_. The whole of this subterraneous abode had, I +must confess, a great air of hospitality about it; but when I mentioned to +the guide the enormous size of those casks used by our principal London +brewers--compared with which, even the "GREAT TUN" was a mere TEA-CUP--he +held up his hands, shook his head, and exclaimed with great self- +satisfaction... "cela ne se peut pas etre!" + +After I had dined, I called upon M. Schlosser, one of the professors of the +University--for which this town is rather celebrated.[181] Attached to this +University, is a famous _Library of MSS. and printed books_--but more +especially of the former. It has been long known under the name of the +_Palatine Library;_ and having been seized and transported to the Vatican, +at the conclusion of the thirty years war, and from thence carried to +Paris, was, in the year 1815, at the urgent intercession of the King of +Prussia, restored to its ancient-resting-place. What "a day of joyance" was +that when this restoration took place! M. Schlosser adverted to it with a +satisfaction amounting... almost to rapture. That gentleman made me a +present of the first part of his _Universal Biography_, published at +_Franckfort on the Main_, the preceding year, in 8vo.--in the German +language--with copious and erudite notes. He shewed me the earlier printed +volumes of the Public Library; of which, having unluckily lost the few +memoranda I had taken--but which I believe only included the notice of a +_first Caesar_, _first Suetonius_, and _first Tacitus_--I am not able to +give any particular details. M. Schlosser conversed a good deal, and very +earnestly, about Lord Spencer's library--and its probable ultimate +destination; seeming to dread its "_dispersion_" as a national calamity. + +It was late in the afternoon, when darkness was rather prematurely coming +on--and the rain descending almost in torrents--that I left Heidelberg for +MANHEIM--the _ultima Thule_ of my peregrinations on the German side of the +Rhine. The road is nearly straight, in good order, and lined with poplar +trees. People of all descriptions--on foot, in gigs, carriages, and upon +horseback--were hastening home--as upon a Sunday evening with +_us_:--anxious to escape the effects of a soaking rain. Unfavourable as the +weather was, I could not help looking behind, occasionally, to catch +glimpses of the magnificent palace of Heidelberg; which seemed to encrease, +in size and elevation as we continued to leave it in the rear. The country, +also, on the other side of the _Neckhar_, was mountainous, wooded, and +picturesque: the commencement of that chain of hills, which, extending +towards _Mayence_ and _Cologne_, form the favourite and well known scenery +which Englishmen delight to visit. As my eye ran along this magnificent +range, I could not but feel something approaching to deep regret ... that +_other_ causes, besides those of the lateness of the season, operated in +preventing me from pursuing my course in that direction. It was +impossible ... however I might have wished to visit the cities where _Fust_ +and _Schoeffher_ and _Ulric Zel_ are supposed to lie entombed, and where +the FIRST PRODUCTIONS OF THE PRESS were made public--it was impossible for +me to do otherwise than to make Manheim the _colophon_ of my +bibliographical excursion. The glass had been _turned_ for some time past, +and the sand was fast running out. + +It was rather late when we drove to the _Golden Fleece_ at Manheim, the +best inn in the town--and situated in a square, which, when we visited it, +was filled by booths: it being fair time. With difficulty we got +comfortable lodgings, so extremely crowded was the inn. The court-yard was +half choked up with huge casks of Rhenish wine, of different qualities; +most of them destined for England--and all seemed to be agitation and +bustle. The first night of my arrival was a night of mixed pleasure and +pain, by the receipt of nearly a dozen letters from Vienna, Munich, +Stuttgart, and London, collectively: the whole of which had been purposely +directed to this place. The contents of the Stuttgart letter have been +already detailed to the reader.[182] The first object of my visitation at +Manheim, on the morrow, was the house of DOM. ARTARIA--known, throughout +the whole of Germany, as the principal mercantile house for books, prints, +and pictures.[183] With these objects of commerce, was united that of +_banking_: forming altogether an establishment of equal prosperity and +respectability. The house is situated in the principal square, at the +corner of one of the streets running into it. It has a stone front, and the +exterior is equally as attractive in appearance, as the interior is from +substantial hospitality. The civility, the frankness, the open-heartedness +of my reception here was, if possible, more warm and encouraging than in +any previous place in Germany; and what rendered the whole perfectly +delightful, was, the thorough English-like appearance of every thing about +me. Books, prints, pictures--and household furniture of every +description--bespoke the judicious and liberal taste of the owner of the +mansion; while the large and regular supplies of letters and despatches, +every morning, gave indication of a brisk and opulent commerce. +It so happened that, the very first morning of my visit to M. Artaria, +there arrived trucks, filled with boxes and bales of goods purchased at the +Frankfort fair--which had not been long over. In some of these ponderous +cases, were pictures of the old masters; in others, _prints_.. chiefly from +Paris and London,[184] and principally from the house of Messrs. Longman +and Co. in Paternoster row. Among these latter, was a fine set of the +_Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica,_ in ten volumes, 4to. bound in +russia--which had been bespoke of M. Artaria by some Bavarian Count: and +which must have cost that Count very little short of 120 guineas. The +shelves of the front repository were almost wholly filled with English +books, in the choicest bindings; and dressed out to catch and captivate the +susceptible _bibliomaniac_, in a manner the most adroit imaginable. To the +left, on entrance, were two rooms filled with choice paintings; many of +them just purchased at the Frankfort fair. Some delicious Flemish pictures, +among which I particularly noticed a little _Paul Potter_--valued at five +hundred guineas--and some equally attractive Italian performances, +containing, among the rest, a most desirable and genuine portrait of +_Giovanni Bellini_--valued at one hundred and fifty guineas--were some of +the principal objects of my admiration. + +But, more interesting than either, in my humble judgment, and yet not +divested of a certain vexatious feeling, arising from an ignorance of the +original--was a portrait, painted in oil, of the size of life, quite in the +manner of _Hans Holbein_ ... yet with infinitely more warmth and power of +carnation-tint. It was alive--and looked you through, as you entered the +room. Few galleries, of portraits contain a more perfect specimen of the +painting of the times. For the original, I believe, M. Artaria asked three +hundred guineas.[185] + +The purse and table of M. Artaria were as open and as richly furnished as +were his repositories of books and pictures; and I was scolded because I +had not made _his house_ my head quarters during my residence at Manheim. I +dined with him, however, twice out of the four days of my stay; and was +indifferent to plays and public places of resort, in the conversation and +company which I found at his house. Yet it was during the circulation of +his double-quart bottles of old Rhenish wine--distributed with a liberality +not to be exceeded by the Benedictines at the monastery at Goettwic, and yet +more exquisite and choice in its flavour--that the gallant host poured +forth the liberal sentiments which animated a bosom... grateful to +providence for the success that had crowned his steadily and well directed +labours! I never saw a man upon whom good fortune sat more comfortably, or +one whom it was so little likely to spoil. Half of my time was spent in the +house of M. Artaria, because there I found the kind of society which I +preferred--and which contained a mixture of the antiquary and collector, +with the merchant and man of the world. After this, who shall say that a +fac-simile of his Autograph (now that he is NO MORE!) can be unacceptable +even to the most fastidious. + +[Illustration] + +Among the antiquaries, were Messrs. TRAITEUR and KOCH. The former had been +public librarian at Munich; and related to me the singular anecdote of +having picked up the _first Mentz Bible_, called the _Mazarine_, for a few +francs at Nancy. M. Traiteur is yet enthusiastic in his love of books, and +shewed me the relics of what might have been a curious library. He has a +strange hypothesis, that the art of printing was invented at _Spire;_ on +account of a medal having been struck there in 1471, commemorative of that +event; which medal was found during the capture of that place about two +centuries ago. He fixed a very high price--somewhere about forty +pounds--upon the medal; which, however, I never saw. He hoped (and I hope +so too, for his own sake) that the Prince Royal of Bavaria would offer him +that sum for it, to enrich his collection at Munich. M. Traiteur talked +largely of a German book in his possession, with the express date of 1460; +but though I was constantly urging him to shew it to me, he was not able to +put his hand upon it. I bought of him, however, about ten pounds worth of +books, among which was the _Life of St. Goar _, printed by _Schoeffher_ in +1481, quarto--the date of which had been artfully altered to 1470--by +scratching out the final xi. This was not the knavery of the vender. M. +Traiteur _offered_ me the _Tewrdanckhs_ of 1517, upon paper, for ten +pounds: a sum, much beyond what I considered to be its real worth--from the +copy having been half bound, and a good deal cropt. He was incessant in his +polite attentions to me. + +M. Koch had been, if he be not yet, a grocer; but was so fond of rare old +books, that he scarcely ever visited his canisters and sugar-loaves. I +bought some very curious little pieces of him, to the amount of ten or +twelve guineas: among which, was the strange and excessively rare tract, in +Latin and German, entitled _De Fide Concubinarum in Sacerdotes_, of which a +very particular account appears in the _Bibliographical Decameron_, vol. i. +p. 229, 235. His simplicity of manners and friendliness of disposition were +equally attractive; and I believe if he had possessed the most precious +Aldine Classics, upon vellum, I could have succeeded in tempting him to +part with them. + +The town of Manheim is large, neat, and populous; containing 20,000 souls. +The streets run generally at right angles, and are sufficiently airy and +wide. But, compared with the domestic architecture of Augsburg, Munich, and +Vienna, the houses are low, small, and unornamented. The whole place has +much the appearance of a handsome provincial town in England. There are +gardens and public walks; but the chief of these is connected with the old +red-stone palace of the former Elector Palatine. The Rhine terminates these +walks on one side; and when I visited them, which was twice during my stay, +that river was running with a rapid and discoloured current. The Rhine is +broad here; but its banks are tame. A mound is raised against it, in some +parts, to prevent partial overflows, and a fine terrace crowns its summits. +A bridge of boats, over which you pass into France, is immediately in view. +Upon the whole, these gardens, which seem to be laid out in the English +fashion, and which are occasionally varied by some pleasing serpentine +walks, are left in a sad state of neglect. The breeze from the river plays +freely along the osiers and willows, with which its banks are plentifully +planted; and I generally felt refreshed by half an hour's walk upon the +broad, dry, gravel terrace, which comes close up to the very windows of the +palace. The palace itself is of an enormous size--but is now bereft of +every insignia of royalty. It is chiefly (as I understood) a depot for +arms. + +I ought to mention, among the social gratifications, of which I partook at +Manheim, that arising from the kind attentions of M. ACKERMANN; a +gentleman, retired from business, and residing in the place or +square:--devoting the evening of a bachelor's life to the amusement +resulting from a small but well chosen collection of coins and medals. He +shewed me several of surprising delicacy and finish ... more especially of +the sixteenth century, executed at Nuremberg--and tempted me to become a +purchaser of the _Gold Royal_ of our _Edward IV._, for which I offered him +five louis. As he thought himself handsomely paid, he presented me, in +addition, with a beautiful silver medal of the sixteenth century--struck at +Nuremberg--of which particular mention has been made in a preceding, +page.[186] One of my visits to M. Ackermann was diversified by the sight of +a profusion of fine grapes, of both colours, which had been just gathered +from his garden--within the suburbs of the town:--where, indeed, a number +of finely trimmed gardens, belonging to the citizens of Manheim, are kept +in the highest state of cultivation. The vintage had now set through-out +Germany and France; and more delicious grapes than those presented to me by +M.A., could seldom be partaken of. Yet I know not if they were quite equal +to those of Ratisbon and Heilbrunn. Passing along a very extensive +vineyard, we stopped--requesting the valet to alight, and try to procure us +some of the tempting fruit in view ... in order to slake our thirst during +a hot journey. In a second he disappeared, and in a minute reappeared--with +a bunch of black grapes--so large, full, and weighty ... that I question if +Van Huysum or De Heem ever sat down to such a model for the exercise of +their unrivalled pencils. The juice of this bunch was as copious and +delicious as the exterior was downy and inviting. We learnt, however, that +these little acts of depredation were not always to be committed with +impunity; for that, in the middle of extensive fields, when the grape was +ripe enough to be gathered, watch-boxes were placed--and keepers within +these boxes were armed with carbines, loaded with something more weighty +than _powder_! + +It only remains to mention, that, having left particular directions with +the house of M. Artaria, to forward all _the_ cases which had been +consigned to me, at their own house, from Vienna and Nuremberg, to that of +Messrs. Arch and Co., booksellers, Cornhill, I had nothing to do but renew +my letter of credit, and pass over the Rhine into France. I started +immediately after dinner, from M. Artaria's house; horses having been +brought to the door. + + + +MANHEIM TO PARIS. + +About four o'clock we passed over the bridge of boats, across the Rhine, +and changed horses at _Ogersheim_ and _Spire_, sleeping at _Germezsheim_. +The Rhine flows along the meadows which skirt the town of Spire; and while +the horses were changing, we took a stroll about the cathedral. It is +large, but of a motley style of architecture--and, in part, of a Moorish +cast of character. Nothing but desolation appears about its exterior. The +roof is sunk, and threatens to fall in every moment. No service (I +understood) was performed within--but in a contiguous garden were the +remains of a much older edifice, of an ecclesiastical character. Around, +however, were the traces of devastation and havoc--the greater part arising +from the bullets and cannon balls of the recent campaigns. It was +impossible, however, for a _typographical antiquary_ to pass through this +town, without feeling some sensations approaching to a sort of pleasing +melancholy: for HERE were born the TWO SPIRAS--or _John and Vindelin de +Spira_--who introduced the art of printing into Venice. I do not suppose +that there exists any relic of domestic architecture here old enough to +have been contemporaneous with the period of their births. + +The journey to Paris, through the route we took, was such--till we reached +_St. Avold_, about two hundred and fifty English miles from the capital--as +is never likely to induce me to repeat the attempt. The continuation of the +chain of mountains called the _Vosges_, running northerly from Strasbourg +downwards--renders the road wearisome, and in parts scarcely passable--as +the government has recently paid no attention to its reparation. _Landau_, +_Weissenbourg_, and _Bitche_ are the principal fortified towns; the latter, +indeed, boasts of a commanding fort--upon a very elevated piece of ground, +ranked among the more successful efforts of Vauban. The German language +continued chiefly to be spoken among the postilions and lower orders, till +we left _Forbach_ for _St. Avold_. At _Landau_, about three hundred and +sixty miles from Paris, I parted with my valet--- for Strasbourg; under the +impression that he would be glad to resume his acquaintance with me, on any +future occasion: at the same time he seemed to long to be taken with us to +_London_--a city, of all others, he said, he was desirous of seeing. He had +also half imbibed the notion that its streets were paved with gold. + +_Metz_ is a noble city: finely situated, strongly fortified, and thickly +inhabited. The _Moselle_ encircles a portion of it in a very picturesque +manner. The inn, called the _Cheval Blanc_, should rather be that of +_Cheval Noir_--if it take its epithet from the colour of the interior--for +a dirtier hotel can scarcely exist. It was a fine moonlight night when we +left Metz, on a Sunday, resolving to sleep two stages on the road. The next +day we dined at _Dombasle_, a stage beyond _Verdun_; and were within about +seventy miles of _Chalons sur Marne_. The vintage and the fruits of Autumn +were now rich and abundant on all sides. The fields were all purple, and +the orchards all red and gold. Wine casks, stained with the gushing juice, +met us between every stage; while on the right hand and left, we saw the +women walking beneath their perpendicular baskets, laden with the most +bountiful produce of the vineyard. Such a year of plenty had hardly been +remembered within the oldest memory. Mean time, the song and the roundelay +were heard from all quarters; and between _Dombasle_ and _Clermont_, as we +ascended a wooded height, with the sun setting in a flame of gold, in +front--we witnessed a rural sight, connected with the vintage, which was +sufficient to realise all the beautiful paintings ever executed by +_Watteau_ and _Angelis_. + +It was late when we reached _Chalons_. The next day, we started for +_Rheims_, and stopped at _Sillery_ in our way--the last stage on that side +of it. The day was really oppressive--although we were in the middle of +October. At Sillery we drank some Champagne--for which it is famous--the +produce of the same year's vintage. It had not been made a fortnight--and +tasted rather sharp and strong. This, we were triumphantly told, was the +sure test of its turning out excellent. We were infinitely delighted with +Rheims, more especially with THE CATHEDRAL. The western porches--and +particularly that on the north side--are not less beautifully, than they +are elaborately, sculptured. The interior, immediately within the western +porches--or rather on the reverse sides of them--presents sculpture of +admirable workmanship:--of the fourteenth century. But the porches appeared +much lower than I had imagined. In the nave is an isolated roman +sculpture,[187] of the lower age, cut in a block of marble--and +unconnectedly placed there. This has been engraved in the _Antiquite +Expliquee_ of _Montfaucon_. At the further end of the choir, is an +elaborately sculptured modern monument--containing many beautiful figures +in white marble:--upon the whole, one of the most interesting which I had +seen upon the Continent. The upper part of the exterior of the cathedral, +on the south side, is very elegantly carved; but the towers are short, and +under repair. The lower part of the south exterior of the cathedral is +entirely marred, as to picturesque effect, by the recent buildings attached +to it. Upon the whole, however, the Cathedral at Rheims is a very pure and +interesting specimen of Gothic architecture. Nor must I omit an anecdote +connected with its present state of preservation. That it escaped the +ravages of the revolution, was owing, as I learnt, to the respect which was +paid to the Cure of some neighbouring parish. He came down to the armed +multitude, when they were ripe for every species of destruction. He told +them--they might take his LIFE ... but entreated them to spare the MOTHER +CHURCH. They spared both: but many marks of their devastation are yet seen; +and pieces of old sculpture, dragged from their original places of +destination, are stuck about in different parts, over shopkeepers' doors. I +could have filled a caravan with several curious specimens of this +kind:--which would have been joyfully viewed by many a Member of the +Society of Antiquaries. The population of Rheims is estimated at about +thirty thousand. It appears to be situated in a fertile and picturesque +country. + +As the weather continued not only serene, but almost sultry--and as we +began to be weary of packing and unpacking, and sleeping at so many +different inns in the route--I resolved upon travelling all night, and +pushing on at once for Paris: where our fatigue would have a temporary +cessation. I left, therefore, this venerable city about six o'clock in the +evening--intending to travel without intermission till I reached my old +quarters at the _Hotel des Colonies_, in the _Rue de Richelieu_. The road +is paved in the middle, the whole way to Paris; but we were careful to +avoid the centre. In other respects, this road is broad, and has a noble +appearance. As we quitted Rheims, and were gaining the height of the first +hill, on the Paris side, we turned round to take a farewell view of the +venerable cathedral. It will be long ere I forget that view. The moon, now +at full, was rising--in unclouded majesty--just above the summit of the old +towers of the cathedral. Her orb was clear, pale, and soft; and yet +completely irradiated. The towers and western front were in a cold, gray +tint: the houses, of inferior dimensions, were shrunk to insignificancy. +There was, therefore, nothing but a cloudless sky, a full moon, and the +cathedral of Rheims:--objects, upon which the eye rests, and the +imagination riots... as ours did ... till a turning of the road shut out +the scenery from our view. + +It was considerably past midnight when I reached _Soissons_--the principal +town between Rheims and Paris. I breakfasted at _Dammartin_. About mid-day +I entered Paris, and found the hostess of the _Hotel des Colonies_, (who +had been apprised by letter of our intention of returning thither) +perfectly disposed to give me a cordial reception, after an absence of +about three months. Having settled my affairs, and enjoyed a short repose +at Paris of a fortnight, I returned with my companion, by the diligence, to +Calais; and landed at Dover within about six months, and a half of my +departure from Brighton to Dieppe. Although my tour was carried on in the +most favourable of seasons--and with every sort of comfort, and attention +arising from letters of recommendation, and hospitable receptions in +consequence--yet I had undergone, from a constant state of excitement and +occupation, a great deal of bodily and mental fatigue; and I question if +poor Park, ... had it pleased Providence to have allowed him to re-visit +his native shore... would have retouched BRITISH EARTH with greater joy +than I experienced, when, leaping from the plank, put out from the boat, I +planted my foot upon the shingles at DOVER ... + + ... _reddens landes Domino_.[188] + + +[157] The Emperor of Austria having stopped at this hotel, the landlord + asked his permission to call it from henceforth by his _Majesty's + name_; which was readily granted. There is an _Album_ here, + in which travellers are requested to inscribe their names, and in + which I saw the _imperial autograph_. + +[158] Especially in the striped broad shoes; which strongly resemble those + in the series of wood-cuts descriptive of the triumphs of the Emperor + Maximilian. + +[159] There is a lithographic print of it recently published, from the + drawing of Quaglio--of the same folio size with the similar prints of + Ulm and Nuremburg. The date of the _towers_ of the Cathedral of + Ratisbon may be ascertained with the greatest satisfaction. From the + _Nuremberg Chronicle_ of 1493 folio xcviii, recto, it appears + that when the author (Hartmann Schedel) wrote the text of that book, + "the edifice was yet incomplete." This incomplete state, alludes, as I + suspect, to the towers; for in the wood-cut, attached to the + description, there is a crane fixed upon the top of _one_ of the + towers, and a stone being drawn up by it--this tower being one story + shorter than the other. Schedel is warm in commendation of the + numerous religious establishments, which, in his time, distinguished + the city of Ratisbon. Of that of St. Emmeran, the following note + supplies some account. + +[160] Lord Spencer possesses some few early Classics from this monastic + library, which was broken up about twenty years ago. His Lordship's + copy of the _Pliny of_ 1469, folio, from the same library, is, in + all probability, the finest which exists. The MONASTERY OF ST. EMMERAM + was doubtless among the "most celebrated throughout Europe." In + Hartmann Schedel's time, it was "an ample monastery of the order of + St. Benedict." In the _Acta Sanctorum, mense Septembris, vol. vi. + Sep_. 22, p. 469, the writer of the life of St. Emmeram + supposes the monastery to have been built towards the end of the VIIth + century. It was at first situated _without_ the walls,--but was + afterwards (A.D. 920) included within the walls. Hansizius, a Jesuit, + wrote a work in 1755, concerning the origin and constitution of the + monastery--in which he says it was founded by Theodo in 688. The body + of St. Emmeram was interred in the church of St. George, by Gaubaldus, + in the VIIIth century, which church was reduced to ashes in 1642; but + three years afterwards, they found the body of St. Emmeram, preserved + in a double chest, or coffin, and afterwards exposed it, on + Whitsunday, 1659, in a case of silver--to all the people. + +[161] He died in April, 1820. + +[162] [NOT so--as I understand. It is re-established in its previous form.] + +[163] So I heard him called everywhere--in Austria and Bavaria--by men of + every degree and rank in society; and by _professional_ men as + frequently as by others. I recollect when at Landshut, standing at the + door of the hotel, and conversing with two gallant-looking Bavarian + officers, who had spent half their lives in the service: one of them + declaring that "he should like to have been _opposed_ to + WELLINGTON--to have _died_ even in such opposition, if he could + not have vanquished him." I asked him, why? "Because (said he) there + is glory in such a contest--for he is, doubtless, the FIRST CAPTAIN OF + THE AGE." + +[164] Dr. Bright, in _Travels in Lower Hungary_, p. 90-3, has an + animated passage connected with this once flourishing, but now + comparatively drooping, city. In the _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. + iii. p. 261-3, will be found an extract or two, from Schedel's + _Nuremberg Chronicle_, fol. c., &c. edit. 1493, which may serve + to give a notion of the celebrity of Nuremberg about three centuries + and a half ago. + +[165] Or rather, walls which have certain round towers, with a projecting + top, at given intervals. These towers have a very strong and + picturesque appearance; and are doubtless of the middle part of the + fifteenth century. In Hartman Schedel's time, there were as many of + them as there were days in the year. + +[166] [A large and most beautiful print of this interesting Shrine has + been published since the above was written. It merits every + commendation.] + +[167] This is a striking and interesting print--and published in England + for 1_l._ 1_s._ The numerous figures introduced in it are + habited in the costume of the seventeenth century. + +[168] The author of this work was _Franciscus de Retz_. As a first + essay of printing, it is a noble performance. The reader may see the + book pretty fully described in the _Bibl. Spenceriana_, vol. + iii. p. 489. + +[169] See p. 320 ante. + +[170] See a copy of it described at Paris; vol. ii. p. 126. + +[171] See p. 182 ante. + +[172] [He is since DEAD.] + +[173] Only three livraisons of this work have, I believe, been yet + published:--under the title of "_Gravures en Bois des anciens + maitres allemands tirees des Planches originales recueillies par_ + IULIAN ALBERT DERSCHAU. _Publiees par Rodolphe Zecharie Becker_." + The last, however, is of the date of 1816--and as the publisher has + now come down to wood-blocks of the date of 1556, it may be submitted + whether the work might not advantageously cease? Some of the blocks in + this third part seem to be a yard square. + +[174] They are now in the library of Earl Spencer. + +[175] I will describe this singular specimen of old art as briefly and + perspicuously as I am able. It consists of an impression, in pale + black ink--resembling very much that of aquatint, of a subject cut + upon copper, or brass, which is about seventeen inches in height (the + top being a little cut away) and about ten inches six-eighths in + width. The upper part of the impression is in the shape of an obtusely + pointed, or perhaps rather semicircular, gothic window--and is filled + by involutions of forms or patterns, with great freedom of play and + grace of composition: resembling the stained glass in the upper parts + of the more elaborated gothic windows of the beginning of the + fifteenth century. Round the outer border of the subject, there are + seven white circular holes, as if the metal from which the impression + was taken, had been _nailed up_ against a wall--and these blank + spots were the result of the aperture caused by the space formerly + occupied by the nails. Below, is the subject of the crucifixion. The + cross is ten inches high: the figure of Christ, without the glory, six + inches: St. John is to the left, and the mother of Christ to the right + of the cross; and each of these figures is about four inches high. The + drawing and execution of these three figures, are barbarously puerile. + To the left of St. John is a singular appearance of the _upper_ + part of _another_ plate, running at right angles with the + principal, and composed also in the form of the upper portion of a + gothic window. To the right of the virgin, and of the plate, is the + "staggering" date abovementioned. It is thus: M.cccc.xxx. This date is + fixed upon the stem of a tree, of which both the stem and the branches + above appear to have been _scraped_, in the copper, almost + _white_--for the sake of introducing the inscription, or + _date_. The date, moreover, has a very suspicious look, in regard + to the execution of the letters of which it is composed. As to the + _paper_, upon which the impression is taken, it has, doubtless, + much of the look of old paper; but not of that particular kind, either + in regard to _tone_ or _quality_, which we see in the prints + of Mechlin, Schoen, or Albert Durer. But what gives a more "staggering + aspect" to the whole affair is, that the worthy Derschau had + _another_ copy of this _same_ impression, which he sold to Mr. + John Payne, and which is now in the highly curious collection of Mr. + Douce. This was fortunate, to say the least. The copy purchased by + myself, is now in the collection of Earl Spencer. + +[176] I should add, that the _dotted_ manner of executing this old + print, may be partly seen in that at page 280 of vol. iii. of the + second edition of this work; but still more decidedly in the old + prints pasted within the covers of the extraordinary copy of the + _Mazarine Bible_, UPON VELLUM, once in the possession of Messrs. + Nicol, booksellers to his late Majesty, and now in that of Henry + Perkins, Esq. + +[177] _Travels in Lower Hungary_, 1818, 4to. p.93. + +[178] _Buchhandler_ is bookseller: and _Antiquar_ a dealer in + old books. In Nuremberg, families exist for centuries in the same + spot. I.A. ENDTER, one of the principal booksellers, resides in a + house which his family have occupied since the year 1590. My + intercourse was almost entirely with M. Lechner--one of the most + obliging and respectable of his fraternity at Nuremberg. + +[179] [Now of Henrietta Street Covent Garden. As is a sturdy oak, of + three centuries growth, compared with a sapling of the last season's + transplanting, so is the business of Mr. Bohn, NOW, compared with what + it was when the _above_ notice was written.] + +[180] It is either 1607, or 1609. + +[181] The reputation of the University of Heidelberg, which may contain + 500 students, greatly depends upon that of the professors. The + students are generally under twenty years of age. Their dress and + general appearance is very picturesque. The shirt collar is open, the + hair flowing, and a black velvet hat or cap, of small and square + dimensions, placed on one side, gives them a very knowing air. One + young man in particular, scarcely nineteen from his appearance, + displayed the most beautiful countenance and figure which I had ever + beheld. He seemed to be _Raphael_ or _Vandyke_ revived. + +[182] See note at page 49-51. + +[183] Since March 1819, called the firm of ARTARIA and FONTAINE. + +[184] Among the prints recently imported from the _latter_ place, + was the whole length of the DUKE OF WELLINGTON, engraved by Bromley, + from the painting of Sir Thomas Lawrence. I was surprised when M. + Artaria told me that he had sold _fifty copies_ of this print--to + his Bavarian and Austrian customers. In a large line engraving, of the + Meeting of the Sovereigns and Prince Schwartzenberg, after the battle + of Leipsic--from the painting of P. Krafft--and published by Artaria + and Fontaine in January 1820--it is gratifying to read the name of our + SCOTT--as that of the engraver of the piece--although it had been + _previously_ placed in other hands. + +[185] [It was brought to England about three years ago, and is YET, I + believe, a purchasable article in some Repository. It should at least + be _seen_ by the whole tribe of COGNOSCENTI in Pall Mall.] + +[186] See page 439. + +[187] The town is said to abound with Roman antiquities; among which is a + triumphal arch of the time of Augustus, and an arcade called the + _Romulus_. It was at Rheims where the holy _ampoule_, or + oil for consecrating the Kings of France was kept--who were usually + crowned here. A Jacobin ruffian, of the name of _Ruht_, destroyed + this ampoule during the revolution. This act was succeeded by his own + self-destruction. + +[188] CHRISTMAS CAROL: printed by Wynkyn De Worde, 1521, 4to. see + _Typog. Antiquities_, vol. ii. p. 251. + + + + + +THE END. + +PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE + +Shakspeare Press, + +Cleveland Row, St. James's. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and +Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three, by Thomas Frognall Dibdin + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL *** + +***** This file should be named 17624.txt or 17624.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/6/2/17624/ + +Produced by Robert Connal, Paul Ereaut and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +*** END: FULL LICENSE *** + |