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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/17520.txt b/17520.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8de763b --- /dev/null +++ b/17520.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7787 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M--y +W--y M--e, by Lady Mary Wortley Montague + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Letters of the Right Honourable Lady M--y W--y M--e + Written during Her Travels in Europe, Asia and Africa to Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c. in Different Parts of Europe + + +Author: Lady Mary Wortley Montague + + + +Release Date: January 15, 2006 [eBook #17520] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE +LADY M--Y W--Y M--E*** + + +E-text prepared by Desmond Grocott + + + +LETTERS + +OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE + +Lady M----y W----y M----e; + +WRITTEN DURING HER TRAVELS IN +EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, + +TO + +Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c. +in different PARTS of EUROPE. + +Which contain, among other curious Relations, +ACCOUNTS of the POLICY and MANNERS +of the TURKS. + +Drawn from Sources that have been inaccessible to +other Travellers. + +A NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME. + +LONDON; +PRINTED FOR THOMAS MARTIN, + +M.DCC.XC. + + + + + + + +PREFACE, + +BY A L A D Y. + +WRITTEN IN 1724. + +I WAS going, like common editors, to advertise the reader of the +beauties and excellencies of the work laid before him: To tell him, +that the illustrious author had opportunities that other travellers, +whatever their quality or curiosity may have been, cannot obtain; and +a genius capable of making the best improvement of every opportunity. +But if the reader, after perusing _one_ letter only has not +discernment to distinguish that natural elegance, that delicacy of +sentiment and observation, that easy gracefulness, and lovely +simplicity, (which is the perfection of writing) and in which these +_Letters_ exceed all that has appeared in this kind, or almost in +any other, let him lay the book down, and leave it to those who have. + +THE noble author had the goodness to lend me her MS. to satisfy my +curiosity in some inquiries I had made concerning her travels; and +when I had it in my hands, how was it possible to part with it? I +once had the vanity to hope I might acquaint the public, that it +owed this invaluable treasure to my importunities. But, alas! the +most ingenious author has condemned it to obscurity during her life; +and conviction, as well as deference, obliges me to yield to her +reasons. However, if these _Letters_ appear hereafter, when I am in +my grave, let this attend them, in testimony to posterity, that among +her contemporaries, _one_ woman, at least, was just to her merit. + +THERE is not any thing so excellent, but some will carp at it; and +the (sic) rather, because of its excellency. But to such hypercritics I +shall not say ************. + +I CONFESS, I am malicious enough to desire, that the world should see +to how much better purpose the _LADIES_ travel than their _LORDS_; +and that, whilst it is surfeited with _Male travels_, all in the same +tone, and stuffed with the same trifles; a lady has the skill to +strike out a new path, and to embellish a worn-out subject with +variety of fresh and elegant entertainment. For, besides the +vivacity and spirit which enliven every part, and that inimitable +beauty which spreads through the whole; besides the purity of the +style, for which it may justly, be accounted the standard of the +English tongue; the reader will find a more true and accurate account +of the customs and manners of the several nations with whom this lady +conversed, than he can in any other author. But, as her ladyship's +penetration discovers the inmost follies of the heart, so the candour +of her temper passed over them with an air of pity, rather than +reproach; treating with the politeness of a court, and the gentleness +of a lady, what the severity of her judgment could not but condemn. + +IN short, let her own sex at least, do her justice; lay aside +diabolical Envy, and its _brother_ Malice [Footnote: This fair and +elegant prefacer (sic) has resolved that Malice should be of the +masculine gender: I believe it is both masculine and feminine, and I +heartily wish it were neuter.] with all their accursed company, sly +whispering, cruel back-biting, spiteful detraction, and the rest of +that hideous crew, which, I hope, are very falsely said to attend the +_Tea-table_, being more apt to think, they frequent those public +places, where virtuous women never come. Let the men malign one +another, if they think fit, and strive to pull down merit, when they +cannot equal it. Let us be better natured, than to give way to any +unkind or disrespectful thought of so bright an ornament of our sex, +merely because she has better sense; for I doubt not but our hearts +will tell us, that this is the real and unpardonable offence, +whatever may be pretended. Let us be better Christians, than to look +upon her with an evil eye, only because the giver of all good gifts +has entrusted and adorned her with the most excellent talents. +Rather let us freely own the superiority, of this sublime genius, as +I do, in the sincerity of my soul; pleased that a _woman_ triumphs, +and proud to follow in her train. Let us offer her the palm which is +so justly her due; and if we pretend to any laurels, lay them +willingly at her feet. + +December 18.. 1724. M. A. + + Charm'd into love of what obscures my fame, + If I had wit, I'd celebrate her name, + And all the beauties of her mind proclaim. + Till Malice, deafen'd with the mighty sound, + Its ill-concerted calumnies confound; + Let fall the mask, and with pale envy meet, + To ask and find, their pardon at her feet. + +You see, Madam, how I lay every thing at your feet. As the tautology +shews (sic) the poverty of my genius, it likewise shews the extent of +your empire over my imagination. + +_May_ 31. 1725. + +ADVERTISEMENT OF THE EDITOR + +THE editor of these letters, who, during his residence at Venice, was +honoured with the esteem and friendship of their ingenious and +elegant author, presents them to the public, for the two following +reasons: + +_First_, Because it was the manifest intention of the late Lady +M----y W----Y M----e; that this SELECT COLLECTION of her letters +should be communicated to the public: an intention declared, not only +to the editor, but to a few more chosen friends, to whom she gave, +copies of the incomparable letters. + +The _second_, and principal reason, that has engaged the editor to +let this Collection see the light, is, that the publication of these +letters will be an immortal monument to the memory of Lady M----y +W----y M----e; and will shew, as long as the English language +endures, the sprightliness of her wit, the solidity of her judgment, +the extent of her knowledge, the elegance of her taste, and the +excellence of her _real_ character. + +The SELECT COLLECTION, here published, was faithfully transcribed +from the original manuscript of her ladyship at Venice. + +The letters from Ratisbon, Vienna, Dresden, Peterwaradin, +Belgrade, Adrianople, Constantinople, Pera, Tunis, Genoa, Lyons, and +Paris, are certainly, the most curious and interesting part of this +publication; and, both in point of _matter_ and _form_, are, to say +no more of them, singularly worthy of the curiosity and attention of +all _men of taste_, and even of all _women of fashion_. As to those +female readers, who read for improvement, and think their beauty an +insipid thing, if it is not seasoned by intellectual charms, they +will find in these letters what they seek for; and will behold in +their author, an ornament and model to their sex. + +LETTER 1. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Rotterdam, Aug_. 3. O. S. 1716. + +I FLATTER, myself, dear sister, that I shall give you some pleasure +in letting you know that I have safely passed the sea, though we had +the ill fortune of a storm. We were persuaded by the captain of the +yacht to set out in a calm, and he pretended there was nothing so +easy as to tide it over; but, after two days slowly moving, the wind +blew so hard, that none of the sailors could keep their feet, and we +were all Sunday night tossed very handsomely. I never saw a man more +frighted (sic) than the captain. For my part, I have been so lucky, +neither to suffer from fear nor seasickness; though, I confess, I was +so impatient to see myself once more upon dry land, that I would not +stay till the yacht could get to Rotterdam, but went in the long-boat +to Helvoetsluys, where we had voitures to carry us to the Briel. I +was charmed with the neatness of that little town; but my arrival at +Rotterdam presented me a new scene of pleasure. All the streets are +paved with broad stones, and before many of the meanest artificers +doors are placed seats of various coloured marbles, so neatly kept, +that, I assure you, I walked almost all over the town yesterday, +_incognito_, in my slippers without receiving one spot of dirt; and +you may see the Dutch maids washing the pavement of the street, with +more application than ours do our bed-chambers. The town seems so +full of people, with such busy faces, all in motion, that I can +hardly fancy it is not some celebrated fair; but I see it is every +day the same. 'Tis certain no town can be more advantageously +situated for commerce. Here are seven large canals, on which the +merchants ships come up to the very doors of their houses. The shops +and warehouses are of a surprising neatness and magnificence, filled +with an incredible quantity of fine merchandise, and so much cheaper +than what we see in England, that I have much ado to persuade myself +I am still so near it. Here is neither dirt nor beggary to be seen. +One is not shocked with those loathsome cripples, so common in +London, nor teased with the importunity of idle fellows and wenches, +that chuse (sic) to be nasty and lazy. The common servants, and +little shop-women, here, are more nicely clean than most of our +ladies; and the great variety of neat dresses (every woman dressing +her head after her own fashion) is an additional pleasure in seeing +the town. You see, hitherto, I make no complaints, dear sister; and +if I continue to like travelling as I do at present, I shall not +repent my project. It will go a great way in making me satisfied +with it, if it affords me an opportunity of entertaining you. But it +is not from Holland that you may expect a _disinterested_ offer. I +can write enough in the stile (sic) of Rotterdam, to tell you +plainly, in one word that I expect returns of all the London news. +You see I have already learnt to make a good bargain; and that it is +not for nothing I will so much as tell you, I am your affectionate +sister. + +LET. II + +TO MRS. S----. + +_Hague, Aug. 5_. O. S. 1716. + +I MAKE haste to tell you, dear Madam, that, after all the dreadful +fatigues you threatened me with, I am hitherto very well pleased with +my journey. We take care to make such short stages every day, that I +rather fancy myself upon parties of pleasure, than upon the road; and +sure nothing can be more agreeable than travelling in Holland. The +whole country appears a large garden; the roads are well paved, +shaded on each side with rows of trees, and bordered with large +canals, full of boats, passing and repassing. Every twenty paces +gives you the prospect of some villa, and every four hours that of a +large town, so surprisingly neat, I am sure you would be charmed with +them. The place I am now at is certainly one of the finest villages +in the world. Here are several squares finely built, and (what I +think a particular beauty) the whole set with thick large trees. The +_Vour-hout_ is, at the same time, the Hyde-Park and Mall of the +people of quality; for they take the air in it both on foot and in +coaches. There are shops for wafers, cool liquors, &c.--I have been +to see several of the most celebrated gardens, but I will not teaze +(sic) you with their descriptions. I dare say you think my letter +already long enough. But I must not conclude without begging your +pardon, for not obeying your commands, in sending the lace you +ordered me. Upon my word, I can yet find none, that is not dearer +than you may buy it at London. If you want any India goods, here are +great variety of penny-worths; and I shall follow your orders with +great pleasure and exactness; being, Dear Madam, &c. &c. + +LET. III + +TO MRS. S. C. + +_Nimeguen, Aug_.13. O. S. 1716. + +I AM extremely sorry, my dear S. that your fears of disobliging your +relations, and their fears for your health and safety, have hindered +me from enjoying the happiness of your company, and you the pleasure +of a diverting journey. I receive some degree of mortification from +every agreeable novelty, or pleasing prospect, by the reflection of +your having so unluckily missed the delight which I know it would +have given you. If you were with me in this town, you would be ready +to expect to receive visits from your Nottingham friends. No two +places were ever more resembling; one has but to give the Maese the +name of the Trent, and there is no distinguishing the prospect. The +houses, like those of Nottingham, are built one above another, and +are intermixed in the same manner with trees and gardens. The tower +they call Julius Caesar's, has the same situation with Nottingham +castle; and I cannot help fancying, I see from it the Trentfield, +Adboulton, places so well known to us. 'Tis true, the fortifications +make a considerable difference. All the learned in the art of war +bestow great commendations on them; for my part, that know nothing of +the matter, I shall content myself with telling you, 'tis a very +pretty walk on the ramparts, on which there is a tower, very +deservedly called the Belvidera; where people go to drink coffee, +tea, &c. and enjoy one of the finest prospects in the world. The +public walks have no great beauty but the thick shade of the trees, +which is solemnly delightful. But I must not forget to take notice +of the bridge, which appeared very surprising to me. It is large +enough to hold hundreds of men, with horses and carriages. They give +the value of an English two-pence to get upon it, and then away they +go, bridge and all, to the other side of the river, with so slow a +motion, one is hardly sensible of any at all. I was yesterday at the +French church, and stared very much at their manner of service. The +parson clapped on a broad-brimmed hat in the first place, which gave +him entirely the air of _what d'ye call him_, in Bartholomew fair, +which he kept up by extraordinary antic gestures, and preaching much +such stuff as the other talked to the puppets. However, the +congregation seemed to receive it with great devotion; and I was +informed by some of his flock, that he is a person of particular fame +amongst them. I believe, by this time, you are as much tired with my +account of him, as I was with his sermon; but I am sure your brother +will excuse a digression in favour of the church of England. You +know speaking disrespectfully of the Calvinists, is the same thing as +speaking honourably of the church. Adieu, my dear S. always remember +me; and be assured I can never forget you, &c. &c. + +LET. IV. + +TO THE LADY ----. + +_Cologn (sic), Aug_, 16. O. S. 1716. + +IF my lady ---- could have any notion of the fatigues that I have +suffered these two last days, I am sure she would own it a great +proof of regard, that I now sit down to write to her. We hired +horses from Nimeguen hither, not having the conveniency (sic) of the +post, and found but very indifferent accommodations at Reinberg, our +first stage; but it was nothing to what I suffered yesterday. We +were in hopes to reach Cologn; our horses tired at Stamel, three +hours from it, where I was forced to pass the night in my clothes, in +a room not at all better than a hovel; for though I have my bed with +me, I had no mind to undress, where the wind came from a thousand +places. We left this wretched lodging at day-break, and about six +this morning came safe here, where I got immediately into bed. I +slept so well for three hours, that I found myself perfectly +recovered, and have had spirits enough to go and see all that is +curious in the town, that is to say, the churches, for here is +nothing else worth seeing. This is a very large town, but the most +part of it is old built. The Jesuits church, which is the neatest, +was shewed (sic) me, in a very complaisant manner, by a handsome +young Jesuit; who, not knowing who I was, took a liberty in his +compliments and railleries, which very much diverted me. Having +never before seen any thing of that nature, I could not enough admire +the magnificence of the altars, the rich images of the saints (all +massy silver) and the _enchassures_ of the relicks (sic); though I +could not help murmuring, in my heart, at the profusion of pearls, +diamonds, and rubies, bestowed on the adornment of rotten teeth, and +dirty rags. I own that I had wickedness enough to covet St Ursula's +pearl necklaces; though perhaps this was no wickedness at all, an +image not being certainly one's neighbour's; but I went yet farther, +and wished the wench herself converted into dressing-plate. I should +also gladly see converted into silver, a great St Christopher, which +I imagine would look very well in a cistern. These were my pious +reflections: though I was very well satisfied to see, piled up to the +honour of our nation, the skulls of the eleven thousand virgins. I +have seen some hundreds of relicks here of no less, consequence; but +I will not imitate the common stile (sic) of travellers so far, as to +give you a list of them; being persuaded, that you have no manner of +curiosity for the titles given to jaw-bones and bits of worm-eaten +wood.--Adieu, I am just going to supper, where I shall drink your +health in an admirable sort of Lorrain (sic) wine, which I am sure is +the same you call Burgundy in London, &c. &c. + +LET. V. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF B----. + +_Nuremberg, Aug_. 22. O. S. 1716. + +AFTER five days travelling post, I could not sit down to write on any +other occasion, than to tell my dear lady, that I have not forgot her +obliging command, of sending her some account of my travels. I have +already passed a large part of Germany, have seen all that is +remarkable in Cologn, Frankfort, Wurtsburg, and this place. 'Tis +impossible not to observe the difference between the free towns and +those under the government of absolute princes, as all the little +sovereigns of Germany are. In the first, there appears an air of +commerce and plenty. The streets are well-built, and full of people, +neatly and plainly dressed. The shops are loaded with merchandise, +and the commonalty are clean and cheerful. In the other you see a +sort of shabby finery, a number of dirty people of quality tawdered +(sic) out; narrow nasty streets out of repair, wretchedly thin of +inhabitants, and above half of the common sort asking alms. I cannot +help fancying one under the figure of a clean Dutch citizen's wife, +and the other like a poor town lady of pleasure, painted and ribboned +out in her head-dress, with tarnished silver-laced shoes, a ragged +under-petticoat, a miserable mixture of vice and poverty.--They have +sumptuary laws in this town, which distinguish their rank by their +dress, prevent the excess which ruins so many other cities, and has a +more agreeable effect to the eye of a stranger, than our fashions. I +need not be ashamed to own, that I wish these laws were in force in +other parts of the world. When one considers impartially, the merit +of a rich suit of clothes in most places, the respect and the smiles +of favour it procures, not to speak of the envy and the sighs it +occasions (which is very often the principal charm to the wearer), +one is forced to confess, that there is need of an uncommon +understanding to resift the temptation of pleasing friends and +mortifying rivals; and that it is natural to young people to fall +into a folly, which betrays them to that want of money which is the +source of a thousand basenesses (sic). What numbers of men have +begun the world with generous inclinations, that have afterwards been +the instruments of bringing misery on a whole people, being led by +vain expence (sic) into debts that they could clear no other way but +by the forfeit of their honour, and which they never could have +contracted, if the respect the multitude pays to habits, was fixed by +law, only to a particular colour or cut of plain cloth! These +reflections draw after them others that are too melancholy. I will +make haste to put them out of your head by the farce of relicks, with +which I have been entertained in all Romish churches. + +THE Lutherans are not quite free from these follies. I have seen +here, in the principal church, a large piece of the cross set in +jewels, and the point of the spear, which they told me very gravely, +was the same that pierced the side of our Saviour. But I was +particularly diverted in a little Roman Catholic church which is +permitted here, where the professors of that religion are not very +rich, and consequently cannot adorn their images in so rich a manner +as their neighbour. For, not to be quite destitute of all finery, +they have dressed up an image of our Saviour over the altar, in a +fair full-bottomed wig very well powdered. I imagine I see your lady +ship stare at this article, of which you very much doubt the +veracity; but, upon my word, I have not yet made use of the privilege +of a traveller; and my whole account is written with the same plain +sincerity of heart, with which I assure you that I am, dear Madam, + yours, &c. &c. + +LET. VI. + +To MRS P----. + +_Ratisbon, Aug_. 30 O. S. 1716. + +I HAD the pleasure of receiving yours, but the day before I left +London. I give you a thousand thanks for your good wishes, and have +such an opinion of their efficacy that, I am persuaded, I owe in +part, to them, the good luck of having proceeded so far on my long +journey without any ill accident. For I don't reckon it any, to have +been stopped a few days in this town by a cold, since it has not only +given me an opportunity of seeing all that is curious in it, but of +making some acquaintance with the ladies, who have all been to see me +with great civility, particularly _Madame_ ----, the wife of our +king's envoy from Hanover. She has carried me to all the assemblies, +and I have been magnificently entertained at her house, which is one +of the finest here. You know, that all the nobility of this place +are envoys from different states. Here are a great number of them, +and they might pass their time agreeably enough, if they were less +delicate on the point of ceremony. But instead of joining in the +design of making the town as pleasant to one another as they can, and +improving their little societies, they amuse themselves no other way +than with perpetual quarrels, which they take care to eternize (sic), +by leaving them to their successors; and an envoy to Ratisbon +receives, regularly, half a dozen quarrels, among the perquisites of +his employment. You may be sure the ladies are not wanting, on their +side, in cherishing and improving these important _picques_, which +divide the town almost into as many parties, as there are families. +They chuse rather to suffer the mortification of sitting almost alone +on their assembly nights, than to recede one jot from their +pretensions. I have not been here above a week, and yet I have heard +from almost every one of them the whole history of their wrongs, and +dreadful complaint of the injustice of their neighbours, in hopes to +draw me to their party. But I think it very prudent to remain +neuter, though, if I was to stay amongst them, there would be no +possibility of continuing so, their quarrels running so high, that +they will not be civil to those that visit their adversaries. The +foundation of these everlasting disputes, turns entirely upon rank, +place, and the title of Excellency, which they all pretend to; and, +what is very hard, will give it to no body. For my part, I could not +forbear advising them, (for the public good) to give the title of +Excellency to every body; which would include the receiving it from +every body; but the very mention of such a dishonourable peace, was +received with as much indignation, as Mrs Blackaire did the motion of +a reference. And indeed, I began to think myself ill-natured, to +offer to take from them, in a town where there are so few diversions, +so entertaining an amusement. I know that my peaceable disposition +already gives me a very ill figure, and that 'tis _publicly_ +whispered as a piece of impertinent pride in me, that I have hitherto +been saucily civil to every body, as if I thought nobody good enough +to quarrel with. I should be obliged to change my behaviour, if I +did not intend to pursue my journey in a few days. I have been to +see the churches here, and had the permission of touching the +relicks, which was never suffered in places where I was not known. I +had, by this privilege, the opportunity of making an observation, +which I doubt not might have been made in all the other churches, +that the emeralds and rubies which they show round their relicks and +images are most of them false; though they tell you that many of the +_Crosses_ and _Madonas_ (sic), set round with these stones, have been +the gifts of emperors and other great princes. I don't doubt, +indeed, but they were at first jewels of value; but the good fathers +have found it convenient to apply them to other uses, and the people +are just as well satisfied with bits of glass amongst these relicks. +They shewed me a prodigious claw set in gold, which they called the +claw of a griffin; and I could not forbear asking the reverend priest +that shewed it, Whether the griffin was a saint? The question almost +put him beside his gravity; but he answered, They only kept it as a +curiosity. I was very much scandalised at a large silver image of +the _Trinity_, where the _Father_ is represented under the figure of +a decrepit old man, with a beard down to his knees, and triple crown +on his head, holding in his arms the _Son_, fixed on the cross, and +the _Holy Ghost_, in the shape of a dove, hovering over him. +Madam ---- is come this minute to call me to the assembly, and forces +me to tell you, very abruptly, that I am ever your, &c. &c. + +LET. VII. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Vienna, Sept_. 8. O. S. 1716. + +I AM now, my dear sister, safely arrived at Vienna; and, I thank God, +have not at all suffered in my health, nor (what is dearer to me) in +that of my child, by all our fatigues. We travelled by water from +Ratisbon, a journey perfectly agreeable, down the Danube, in one of +those little vessels, that they, very properly, call wooden houses, +having in them all the conveniences of a palace, stoves in the +chambers, kitchens, &c. They are rowed by twelve men each, and move +with such incredible swiftness, that in the same day you have the +pleasure of a vast variety of prospects; and, within the space of a +few hours, you have the pleasure of seeing a populous city adorned +with magnificent palaces, and the most romantic solitudes, which +appear distant from the commerce of mankind, the banks of the Danube +being charmingly diversified with woods, rocks, mountains covered +with vines, fields of corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient +castles. I saw the great towns of Passau and Lintz, famous for the +retreat of the imperial court, when Vienna was besieged. This town, +which has the honour of being the emperor's residence, did not at all +answer my expectation, nor ideas of it, being much less than I +expected to find it; the streets are very close, and so narrow, one +cannot observe the fine fronts of the palaces, though many of them +very well deserve observation, being truly magnificent. They are +built of fine white stone, and are excessive high. For as the town +is too little for the number of the people that desire to live in it, +the builders seem to have projected to repair that misfortune, by +clapping one town on the top of another, most of the houses being of +five, and some of them six stories. You may easily imagine, that the +streets being so narrow, the rooms are extremely dark; and, what is +an inconveniency much more intolerable, in my opinion, there is no +house has so few as five or six families in it. The apartments of +the greatest ladies, and even of the ministers of state, are divided, +but by a partition, from that of a taylor (sic) or shoemaker; and I +know no body that has above two floors in any house, one for their +own use, and one higher for their servants. Those that have houses +of their own, let Out the rest of them to whoever will take them; and +thus the great stairs, (which are all of stone) are as common and as +dirty as the street. 'Tis true, when you have once travelled through +them, nothing can be more surprisingly magnificent than the +apartments. They are commonly a _suite_ of eight or ten large rooms, +all inlaid, the doors and windows richly carved and gilt, and the +furniture, such as is seldom seen in the palaces of sovereign princes +in other countries. Their apartments are adorned with hangings of +the finest tapestry of Brussels, prodigious large looking glasses in +silver frames, fine japan tables, beds, chairs, canopies, and window +curtains of the richest Genoa damask or velvet, almost covered with +gold lace or embroidery. All this is made gay by pictures, and vast +jars of japan china, and large lustres of rock crystal. I have +already had the honour of being invited to dinner by several of the +first people of quality; and I must do them the justice to say, the +good taste and magnificence of their tables, very well answered to +that of their furniture. I have been more than once entertained with +fifty dishes of meat all served in silver, and well dressed; the +desert (sic) proportionable, served in the finest china. But the +variety and richness of their wines, is what appears the most +surprising. The constant way is, to lay a list of their names upon +the plates of the guests, along with the napkins; and I have counted +several times to the number of eighteen different sorts, all +exquisite in their kinds. I was yesterday at Count Schoonbourn, the +vice-chancellor's garden, where I was invited to dinner. I must own, +I never saw a place so perfectly delightful as the Fauxburg (sic) of +Vienna. It is very large, and almost wholly composed of delicious +palaces. If the emperor found it proper to permit the gates of the +town to be laid open, that the Fauxburg might be joined to it, he +would have one of the largest and best built cities in Europe. Count +Schoonbourn's villa is one of the most magnificent; the furniture all +rich brocades, so well fancied and fitted up, nothing can look more +gay and splendid; not to speak of a gallery, full of rarities of +coral, mother of pearl, and, throughout the whole house, a profusion +of gilding, carving, fine paintings, the most beautiful porcelain, +statues of alabaster and ivory, and vast orange and lemon trees in +gilt pots. The dinner was perfectly fine and well ordered, and made +still more agreeable by the good humour of the Count. I have not yet +been at court, being forced to stay for my gown, without which there +is no waiting on the empress; though I am not without great +impatience to see a beauty that has been the admiration of so many +different nations. When I have had that honour, I will not fail to +let you know my real thoughts, always taking a particular pleasure in +communicating them to my dear sister. + +LETTER VIII + +TO MR. P----. + +_Vienna, Sept_.14. O. S. (sic) + +PERHAPS you'll laugh at me for thanking you very gravely for all the +obliging concern you express for me. 'Tis certain that I may, if I +please, take the fine things you say to me for wit and raillery; and, +it may be, it would be taking them right. But I never, in my life, +was half so well disposed to take you in earnest as I am at present; +and that distance which makes the continuation of your friendship +improbable, has very much increased my faith in it. I find that I +have, (as well as the rest of my sex) whatever face I set on't, a +strong disposition to believe in miracles. Don't fancy, however, +that I am infected by the air of these popish countries; I have, +indeed, so far wandered from the discipline of the church of England, +as to have been last Sunday at the opera, which was performed in the +garden of the Favorita; and I was so much pleased with it, I have not +yet repented my seeing it. Nothing of that kind ever was more +magnificent; and I can easily believe what I am told, that the +decorations and habits cost the emperor thirty thousand pounds +Sterling. The stage was built over a very large canal, and, at the +beginning of the second act, divided into two parts, discovering the +water, on which there immediately came, from different parts, two +fleets of little gilded vessels, that gave the representation of a +naval fight. It is not easy to imagine the beauty of this scene, +which I took particular notice of. But all the rest were perfectly +fine in their kind. The story of the opera is the enchantment of +Alcina, which gives opportunities for great variety of machines, and +changes of the scenes, which are performed with a surprising +swiftness. The theatre is so large, that it is hard to carry the eye +to the end of it, and the habits in the utmost magnificence, to the +number of one hundred and eight. No house could hold such large +decorations: but the ladies all sitting in the open air, exposes them +to great inconveniences; for there is but one canopy for the imperial +family; and the first night it was represented, a shower of rain +happening, the opera was broke off, and the company crowded away in +such confusion, that I was almost squeezed to death.--But if their +operas are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high a degree +ridiculous. They have but one play-house, where I had the curiosity +to go to a German comedy, and was very glad it happened to be the +story of Amphitrion (sic). As that subject has been already handled +by a Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious to see what an +Austrian author would make of it. I understand enough of that +language to comprehend the greatest part of it; and besides, I took +with me a lady, that had the goodness to explain to me every word. +The way is, to take a box, which holds four, for yourself and +company. The fixed price is a gold ducat. I thought the house very +low and dark; but I confess, the comedy admirably recompensed that +defect. I never laughed so much in my life. It began with Jupiter's +falling in love out of a peep-hole in the clouds, and ended with the +birth of Hercules. But what was most pleasant, was the use Jupiter +made of his metamorphosis; for you no sooner saw him under the figure +of Amphitrion, but, instead of flying to Alcmena, with the raptures Mr +Dryden puts into his mouth, he sends for Amphitrion's taylor, and +cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker of a bag of money, a Jew +of a diamond ring, and bespeaks a great supper in his name; and the +greatest part of the comedy turns upon poor Amphitrion's being +tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury uses Sofia in the +same manner. But I could not easily pardon the liberty the poet has +taken of larding his play with, not only indecent expressions, but +such gross words, as I don't think Our mob would suffer from a +mountebank. Besides, the two Sofias very fairly let down their +breeches in the direct view of the boxes, which were full of people +of the first rank, that seemed very well pleased with their +entertainment, and assured me, this was a celebrated piece. I shall +conclude my letter with this remarkable relation, very well worthy +the serious consideration of Mr Collier. I won't trouble you with +farewel (sic) compliments, which I think generally as impertinent, as +courtesies at leaving the room, when the visit had been too long +already. + + +LET. IX. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Vienna, Sept_. 14. O. S. + +THOUGH I have so lately troubled you, my dear sister, with a long +letter, yet I will keep my promise in giving you an account of my +first going to court. In order to that ceremony, I was squeezed up +in a gown, and adorned with a gorget and the other implements +thereunto belonging; a dress very inconvenient, but which certainly +shows the neck and shape to great advantage. I cannot forbear giving +you some description of the fashions here, which are more monstrous, +and contrary to all common sense and reason, than 'tis possible for +you to imagine. They build certain fabrics of gauze on their heads, +about a yard high, consisting of three or four stories, fortified +with numberless yards of heavy ribbon. The foundation of this +structure is a thing they call a _Bourle_, which is exactly of the +same shape and kind, but about four times as big as those rolls our +prudent milk-maids make use of to fix their pails upon. This machine +they cover With their own hair, which they mix with a great deal of +false, it being a particular beauty to have their heads too large to +go into a moderate tub. Their hair is prodigiously powdered to +conceal the mixture, and set out with three or four rows of bodkins +(wonderfully large, that stick out two or three inches from their +hair) made of diamonds, pearls, red, green, and yellow stones, that +it certainly requires as much art and experience to carry the load +upright, as to dance upon May-day with the garland. Their whale-bone +petticoats outdo ours by several yards, circumference, and cover some +acres of ground. You may easily suppose how this extraordinary dress +sets off and improves the natural ugliness, with which God Almighty +has been pleased to endow them, generally speaking. Even the lovely +empress herself is obliged to comply, in some degree, with these +absurd fashions, which they would not quit for all the world. I had +a private audience (according to ceremony) of half an hour, and then +all the other ladies were permitted to come and make their court. I +was perfectly charmed with the empress; I cannot however tell you +that her features are regular; her eyes are not large, but have a +lively look full of sweetness; her complexion the finest I ever saw; +her nose and forehead well made, but her mouth has ten thousand +charms, that touch the soul. When she smiles, 'tis with a beauty and +sweetness that forces adoration. She has a vast quantity of fine +fair hair; but then her person!--one must speak of it poetically to +do it rigid justice; all that the poets have said of the mien of +Juno, the air of Venus, come not up to the truth. The Graces move +with her; the famous statue of Medicis was not formed with more +delicate proportions; nothing can be added to the beauty of her neck +and hands. Till I saw them, I did not believe there were any in +nature so perfect, and I was almost sorry that my rank here did not +permit me to kiss them; but they are kissed sufficiently; for every +body that waits on her pays that homage at their entrance, and when +they take leave. When the ladies were come in, she sat down to +Quinze. I could not play at a game I had never seen before, and she +ordered me a seat at her right hand, and had the goodness to talk to +me very much, with that grace so natural to her. I expected every +moment, when the men were to come in to pay their court; but this +drawing-room is very different from that of England; no man enters it +but the grand-master, who comes in to advertise the empress of the +approach of the emperor. His imperial majesty did me the honour of +speaking to me in a very obliging manner; but he never speaks to any +of the other ladies; and the whole passes with a gravity and air of +ceremony that has something very formal in it. The empress Amelia, +dowager of the late emperor Joseph, came this evening to wait on the +reigning empress, followed by the two arch-duchesses her daughters, +who are very agreeable young princesses. Their imperial majesties +rose and went to meet her at the door of the room, after which she +was seated in an armed (sic) chair, next the empress, and in the same +manner at supper, and there the men had the permission of paying +their court. The arch-duchesses sat on chairs with backs without +arms. The table was entirely served, and all the dishes set on by +the empress's maids of honour, which are twelve young ladies of the +first quality. They have no salary, but their chamber at court, +where they live in a sort of confinement, not being suffered to go to +the assemblies or public places in town, except in compliment to the +wedding of a sister maid, whom the empress always presents with her +picture set in diamonds. The three first of them are called _Ladies +of the Key_, and wear gold keys by their sides; but what I find most +pleasant, is the custom, which obliges them, as long as they live, +after they have left the empress's service, to make her some present +every year on the day of her feast. Her majesty is served by no +married women but the _grande maitresse_, who is generally a widow of +the first quality, always very old, and is at the same time groom of +the stole, and mother of the maids. The dressers are not, at all, in +the figure they pretend to in England, being looked upon no otherwise +than as downright chambermaids. I had an audience next day Of the +empress mother, a princess of great virtue and goodness, but who +picques herself too much on a violent devotion. She is perpetually +performing extraordinary acts of penance, without having ever done +any thing to deserve them. She has the same number of maids of +honour, whom she suffers to go in colours; but she herself never +quits her mourning; and sure nothing can be more dismal than the +mourning here, even for a brother. There is not the least bit of +linen to be seen; all black crape (sic) instead of it. The neck, +ears and side of the face are covered with a plaited piece of the +same stuff, and the face that peeps out in the midst of it, looks as +if it were pilloried. The widows wear over and above, a crape +forehead cloth; and, in this solemn weed, go to all the public places +of diversion without scruple. The next day I was to wait on the +empress Amelia, who is now at her palace of retirement, half a mile +from the town. I had there the pleasure of seeing a diversion wholly +new to me, but which is the common amusement of this court. The +empress herself was seated on a little throne at the end of the fine +alley in the garden, and on each side of her were ranged two parties +of her ladies of quality, headed by two Young archduchesses, all +dressed in their hair, full of jewels, with fine light guns in their +hands; and at proper distances were placed three oval pictures, which +were the marks to be shot at. The first was that of a CUPID, filling +a bumper of Burgundy, and the motto, _'Tis easy to be valiant here_. +The second a FORTUNE, holding a garland in her hand, the motto, _For +her whom Fortune favours_. The third was a SWORD, with a laurel +wreath on the point, the motto, _Here is no shame to be +vanquished_.--Near the empress was a gilded trophy wreathed with +flowers, and made of little crooks, on which were hung rich Turkish +handkerchiefs, tippets, ribbons, laces, &c. for the small prizes. +The empress gave the first with her own hand, which was a fine ruby +ring set round with diamonds, in a gold snuff-box. There was for the +second, a little Cupid set with brilliants, and besides these a set +of fine china for the tea-table, enchased in gold, japan trunks, +fans, and many gallantries of the same nature. All the men of +quality at Vienna were spectators; but the ladies only had permission +to shoot, and the arch-duchess Amelia carried off the first prize. I +was very well pleased with having seen this entertainment, and I do +not know but it might make as good a figure as the prize-shooting in +the Eneid, if I could write as well as Virgil. This is the +favourite pleasure of the emperor, and there is rarely a week without +some feast of this kind, which makes the young ladies skilful enough +to defend a fort. They laughed very much to see me afraid to handle +a gun. My dear sister, you will easily pardon an abrupt conclusion. +I believe, by this time, you are ready to think I shall never +conclude at all. + +LET. X. + +TO THE LADY R----. + +_Vienna, Sept_. 20. O. S. 1716. + +I AM extremely rejoiced, but not at all surprised, at the long, +delightful letter, you have had the goodness to send me. I know that +you can think of an absent friend even in the midst of a court, and +you love to oblige, where you can have no view of a return; and I +expect from you that you should love me, and think of me, when you +don't see me. I have compassion for the mortifications that you tell +me befel (sic) our little old friend, and I pity her much more, since +I know, that they are only owing to the barbarous customs of our +country. Upon my word, if she were here, she would have no other +fault but that of being something too young for the fashion, and she +has nothing to do but to transplant herself hither about seven years +hence, to be again a young and blooming beauty. I can assure you, +that wrinkles, or a small stoop in the shoulders, nay, even +gray-hairs (sic), are no objection to the making new conquests. I +know you cannot easily figure to yourself, a young fellow of five and +twenty, ogling my lady S-ff--k with passion, or pressing to hand the +countess of O----d from an opera. But such are the sights I see +every day, and I don't perceive any body surprized (sic) at them but +myself. A woman, till five and thirty, is only looked upon as a raw +girl, and can possibly make no noise in the world, till about forty. +I don't know what your ladyship may think of this matter; but 'tis a +considerable comfort to me, to know there is upon earth such a +paradise for old women; and I am content to be insignificant at +present, in the design of returning when I am fit to appear no where +else. I cannot help, lamenting, on this occasion, the pitiful case +of too many English ladies, long since retired to prudery and +ratafia, who, if their stars had luckily conducted hither, would +shine in the first rank of beauties. Besides, that perplexing word +_reputation_, has quite another meaning here than what you give it at +London; and getting a lover is so far from losing, that 'tis properly +getting reputation; ladies being much more respected in regard to the +rank of their lovers, than that of their husbands. + +BUT what you'll think very odd, the two sects that divide our whole +nation of petticoats, are utterly unknown in this place. Here are +neither coquettes nor prudes. No woman dares appear coquette enough +to encourage two lovers at a time. And I have not seen any such +prudes as to pretend fidelity to their husbands, who are certainly +the best natured set of people in the world, and look upon their +wives' gallants as favourably as men do upon their deputies, that +take the troublesome part of their business off their hands. They +have not however the less to do on that account; for they are +generally deputies in another place themselves; in one word, 'tis the +established custom for every lady to have two husbands, one that +bears the name, and another that performs the duties. And the +engagements are so well known, that it would be a downright affront, +and publicly resented, if you invited a woman of quality to dinner, +without, at the same time, inviting her two attendants of lover and +husband, between whom she sits in state with great gravity. The +sub-marriages generally last twenty years together, and the lady +often commands the poor lover's estate, even to the utter ruin of his +family. These connections, indeed, are as seldom begun by any real +passion as other matches; for a man makes but an ill figure that is +not in some commerce of this nature; and a woman looks out for a +lover as soon as she's married, as part of her equipage, without +which she could not be genteel; and the first article of the treaty +is establishing the pension, which remains to the lady, in case the +gallant should prove inconstant. This chargeable point of honour, I +look upon as the real foundation of so many wonderful influences of +constancy. I really know some women of the first quality, whose +pensions are as well known as their annual rents, and yet nobody +esteems them the less; on the contrary, their discretion would be +called in question, if they should be suspected to be mistresses +for nothing. A great part of their emulation consists in trying who +shall get most; and having no intrigue at all, is so far a disgrace, +that, I'll assure you, a lady, who is very much my friend here, told +me but yesterday, how much I was obliged to her for justifying my +conduct in a conversation relating to me, where it was publicly +asserted, that I could not possibly have common sense, since I had +been in town above a fortnight, and had made no steps towards +commencing an amour. My friend pleaded for me, that my stay was +uncertain, and she believed that was the cause of my seeming +stupidity; and this was all she could find to say in my +justification. But one of the pleasantest adventures I ever met with +in my life was last night, and it will give you a just idea in what a +delicate manner the _belles passions_ are managed in this country. I +was at the assembly of the countess of -----, and the young count +of ----- leading me down stairs, asked me how long I was to stay at +Vienna? I made answer, that my stay depended on the emperor, and it +was not in my power to determine it. Well, madam, (said he) whether +your time here is to be longer or shorter, I think you ought to pass +it agreeably, and to that end you must engage in a _little affair of +the heart_.--My heart, (answered I gravely enough) does not engage +very easily, and I have no design of parting with it. I see, madam, +(said he sighing) by the ill nature of that answer, I am not to hope +for it, which is a great mortification to me that am charmed with +you. But, however, I am still devoted to your service; and since I +am not worthy of entertaining you myself, do me the honour of letting +me know whom you like best amongst us, and I'll engage to manage the +affair entirely to your satisfaction. You may judge in what manner I +should have received this compliment in my own country; but I was +well enough acquainted with the way of this, to know that he really +intended me an obligation, and I thanked him with a very grave +courtesy for his zeal to serve me, and only assured him, I had no +occasion to make use of it. Thus you see, my dear, that gallantry +and good-breeding are as different, in different climates, as +morality and religion. Who have the rightest (sic) notions of both, +we shall never know till the day of judgment; for which great day of +_eclaircissement_, I own there is very little impatience in + your, &c. &c. + +L E T. XI. + +TO MRS J----. + +_Vienna, Sept_. 26. O. S. 1716. + +I WAS never more agreeably surprised than by your obliging letter. +'Tis a peculiar mark of my esteem that I tell you so; and I can +assure you, that if I loved you one grain less than I do, I should be +very sorry to see it so diverting as it is. The mortal aversion I +have to writing, makes me tremble at the thoughts of a new +correspondent; and I believe I have disobliged no less than a dozen +of my London acquaintance by refusing to hear from them, though I did +verily think they intended to send me very entertaining letters. But +I had rather lose the pleasure of reading several witty things, than +be forced to write many stuped (sic) ones. Yet, in spite of these +considerations, I am charmed with the proof of your friendship, and +beg a continuation of the same goodness, though I fear the dulness of +this will make you immediately repent of it. It is not from Austria +that one can write with vivacity, and I am already infected with the +phlegm of the country. Even their amours and their quarrels are +carried on with a surprising temper, and they are never lively but +upon points of ceremony. There, I own, they shew all their passions; +and 'tis not long since two coaches, meeting in a narrow street at +night, the ladies in them not being able to adjust the ceremonial of +which should go back, sat there, with equal gallantry till two in the +morning, and were both so fully determined to die upon the spot +rather than yield, in a point of that importance, that the street +would never have been cleared till their deaths, if the emperor had +not sent his guards to part them; and even then they refused to stir, +till the expedient could be found out of taking them both out in +chairs, exactly in the same moment. After the ladies were agreed, it +was with some difficulty that the pass was decided between the two +coachmen, no less tenacious of their rank than the ladies. This +passion is so omnipotent in the breasts of the women, that even their +husbands never die but they are ready to break their hearts, because +that fatal hour puts an end to their rank, no widows having any place +at Vienna. The men are not much less touched with this point of +honour, and they do not only scorn to marry, but even to make love to +any woman of a family not as illustrious as their own; and the +pedigree is much more considered by them, than either the complexion +of features of their mistresses. Happy are the she's (sic) that can +number amongst their ancestors, counts of the empire; they have +neither occasion for beauty, money, nor good conduct to get them +husbands. 'Tis true, as to money, 'tis seldom any advantage to the +man they marry; the laws of Austria confine the woman's portion to +two thousand florins (about two hundred pounds English), and whatever +they have beside, remains in their own possession and disposal. +Thus, here are many ladies much richer than their husbands, who are +however obliged to allow them pin-money agreeable to their quality; +and I attribute to this considerable branch of prerogative, the +liberty that they take upon other occasions. I am sure, you, that +know my laziness, and extreme indifference on this subject, will pity +me, entangled amongst all these ceremonies, which are a wonderful +burden to me, though I am the envy of the whole town, having, by +their own customs, the pass before them all. They indeed, so +revenge, upon the poor envoys, this great respect shewn to +ambassadors, that (with all my indifference) I should be very uneasy +to suffer it. Upon days of ceremony they have no entrance at court, +and on other days must content themselves with walking after every +soul, and being the very last taken notice of. But I must write a +volume to let you know all the ceremonies, and I have already said +too much on so dull a subject, which however employs the whole care +of the people here. I need not, after this, tell you how agreeably +time slides away with me; you know as well as I do the taste of, +Your's, &c. &c. + +LET. XII. + +TO THE LADY X----. + +_Vienna, Oct_. 1. O. S. 1716. + +YOU desire me, madam, to send you some accounts of the customs here, +and at the same time a description of Vienna. I am always willing to +obey your commands; but you must, upon this occasion, take the will +for the deed. If I should undertake to tell you all the particulars, +in which the manners here differ from ours, I must write a whole +quire of the dullest stuff that ever was read, or printed without +being read. Their dress agrees with the French or English in no one +article, but wearing petticoats. They have many fashions peculiar to +themselves; they think it indecent for a widow ever to wear green or +rose colour, but all the other gayest colours at her own discretion. +The assemblies here are the only regular diversion, the operas being +always at court, and commonly on some particular occasion. Madam +Rabutin has the assembly constantly every night at her house; and the +other ladies, whenever they have a mind to display the magnificence +of their apartments, or oblige a friend by complimenting them on the +day of their saint, they declare, that on such a day the assembly +shall be at their house in honour of the feast of the count or +countess--_such a one_. These days are called days of Gala, and all +the friends or relations of the lady, whose saint it is, are obliged +to appear in their best clothes, and all their jewels. The mistress +of the house takes no particular notice of any body, nor returns any +body's visit; and, whoever pleases, may go, without the formality of +being presented. The company are entertained with ice in several +forms, winter and summer; afterwards they divide into several parties +of ombre, piquet, or conversation, all games of hazard being forbid. + +I SAW t'other day the Gala for Count Altheim, the emperor's +favourite, and never in my life saw so many fine clothes ill-fancied. +They embroider the richest gold stuffs; and provided they can make +their clothes expensive enough, that is all the taste they shew in +them. On other days, the general dress is a scarf, and what you +please under it. + +BUT now I am speaking of Vienna, I am sure you expect I should say +something of the convents; they are of all sorts and sizes, but I am +best pleased with that of St Lawrence, where the ease and neatness +they seem to live with, appears to be much more edifying than those +stricter orders, where perpetual penance and nastiness must breed +discontent and wretchedness. The Nuns are all of quality. I think +there are to the number of fifty. They have each of them a little +cell perfectly clean, the walls of which are covered with pictures +more or less fine, according to their quality. A long white stone +gallery runs by all of them, furnished With the pictures of exemplary +sisters; the chapel is extremely neat and richly adorned. But I +could not forbear laughing at their shewing me a wooden head of our +Saviour, which, they assured me, spoke during the siege of Vienna; +and, as a proof of it, bid me mark his mouth, which had been open +ever since. Nothing can be more becoming than the dress of these +Nuns. It is a white robe, the sleeves of which are turned up with +fine white callico (sic), and their head-dress the same, excepting a +small veil of black crape that falls behind. They have a lower sort +of serving Nuns, that wait on them as their chambermaids. They +receive all visits of women, and play at ombre in their chambers, +with permission of their abbess, which is very easy to be obtained. +I never saw an old woman so good-natured; she is near fourscore, and +yet shews very little sign of decay, being still lively and +cheerful. She caressed me as if I had been her daughter, giving me +some pretty things of her own work, and sweetmeats in abundance. The +grate is not of the most rigid; it is not very hard to put a head +through, and I don't doubt but a man, a little more slender than +ordinary, might squeeze in his whole person. The young count of +Salamis came to the grate, while I was there, and the abbess gave him +her hand to kiss. But I was surprised to find here, the only +beautiful young woman I have seen at Vienna, and not only beautiful +but genteel, witty, and agreeable, of a great family, and who had +been the admiration of the town. I could not forbear shewing my +surprise at seeing a Nun like her. She made me a thousand obliging +compliments, and desired me to come often. It will be an infinite +pleasure to me, (said she, sighing) but I avoid, with the greatest +care, seeing any of my former acquaintance, and whenever they come to +our convent, I lock myself in my cell. I observed tears come into +her eyes, which touched me extremely, and I began to talk to her in +that strain of tender pity she inspired me with; but she would not +own to me, that she is not perfectly happy. I have since endeavoured +to learn the real cause of her retirement, without being able to get +any other account, but that every body was surprised at it, and no +body guessed the reason. I have been several times to see her; but +it gives me too much melancholy to see so agreeable a young creature +buried alive. I am not surprised that Nuns have so often inspired +violent passions; the pity one naturally feels for them, when they +seem worthy of another destiny, making an easy way for yet more +tender sentiments. I never in my life had so little charity for the +Roman Catholick (sic) religion, as since I see the misery it +occasions; so many poor unhappy women! and then the gross +superstition of the common people, who are some or other of them, day +and night, offering bits of candle to the wooden figures that are set +up almost in every street. The processions I see very often, are a +pageantry, as offensive, and apparently contradictory to common +sense, as the pagods (sic) of China. God knows whether it be the +_womanly_ spirit of contradiction that works in me; but there never +before was such zeal against popery in the heart of, + Dear madam, &c. &c. + +LET. XIII. + +TO MR ----. + +_Vienna, Oct_. O. S. 1716. + +I DESERVE not all the reproaches you make me. If I have some time +without answering your letter, it is not, that I don't know how many +thanks are due to you for it; or that I am stupid enough to prefer +any amusements to the pleasure of hearing from you; but after the +professions of esteem you have so obligingly made me, I cannot help +delaying, as long as I can, shewing you that you are mistaken. If +you are sincere, when you say you expect to be extremely entertained +by my letters, I ought to be mortified at the disappointment that I +am sure you will receive when you hear from me; though I have done my +best endeavours to find out something worth writing to you. I have +seen every thing that was to be seen with a very, diligent curiosity. +Here are some fine villas, particularly the late prince of +Litchtenstein's (sic); but the statues are all modern, and the +pictures not of the first hands. 'Tis true, the emperor has some of +great value. I was yesterday to see the repository, which they call +his Treasure, where they seem to have been more diligent in amassing +a great quantity of things, than in the choice of them. I spent +above five hours there, and yet there were very few things that +stopped me long to consider them. But the number is prodigious, +being a very long gallery filled on both sides, and five large rooms. +There is a vast quantity of paintings, amongst which are many fine +miniatures; but the most valuable pictures, are a few of Corregio +(sic), those of Titian being at the Favorita. + +THE cabinet of jewels did not appear to me so rich as I expected to +see it. They shewed me here a cup, about the size of a tea dish, of +one entire emerald, which they had so particular a respect for, that +only the emperor has the liberty of touching it. There is a large +cabinet full of curiosities of clock-work, only one of which I +thought worth observing, that was a craw-fish, with all the motions +so natural, that it was hard to distinguish it from the life. + + +THE next cabinet was a large collection of agates, some of them +extremely beautiful, and of an uncommon size, and several vases of +Lapis Lazuli. I was surprised to see the cabinet of medals so poorly +furnished; I did not remark one of any value, and they are kept in a +most ridiculous disorder. As to the antiques, very few of them +deserve that name. Upon my saying they were modern, I could not +forbear laughing at the answer of the profound antiquary that shewed +them, that _they were ancient enough; for, to his knowledge, they had +been there these forty years_. But the next cabinet diverted me yet +better, being nothing else but a parcel of wax babies, and toys in +ivory, very well worthy to be presented children of five years old. +Two of the rooms were wholly filled with these trifles of all kinds, +set in jewels, amongst which I was desired to observe a crucifix, +that they assured me had spoke very wisely to the emperor Leopold. I +won't trouble you with a catalogue of the rest of the lumber; but I +must not forget to mention a small piece of loadstone that held up an +anchor of steel too heavy for me to lift. This is what I thought +most curious in the whole treasure. There are some few heads of +ancient statues; but several of them are defaced by modern additions. +I foresee that you will be very little satisfied with this letter, +and I dare hardly ask you to be good-natured enough to charge the +dulness (sic) of it on the barrenness of the subject, and to overlook +the stupidity of, Your, &c. &c. + +LET. XIV. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Prague, Nov_. 17. O. S. 1716. + +I HOPE my dear sister wants no new proofs of my sincere affection for +her: but I am sure, if you do, I could not give you a stronger than +writing at this time, after three days, or, more properly speaking, +three nights and days, hard post-travelling.--The kingdom of Bohemia +is the most desert of any I have seen in Germany. The villages are +so poor, and the post-houses so miserable, that clean straw and fair +water are blessings not always to be met with, and better +accommodation not to be hoped for. Though I carried my own bed with +me, I could not sometimes find a place to set it up in; and I rather +chose to travel all night, as cold as it is, wrapped up in my furs, +than go into the common stoves, which are filled with a mixture of +all sorts of ill scents. + +THIS town was once the royal seat of the Bohemian king, and is still +the capital of the kingdom. There are yet some remains of its former +splendour, being one of the largest towns in Germany, but, for the +most part, old built, and thinly inhabited, which makes the houses +very cheap. Those people of quality, who cannot easily bear the +expence of Vienna, chuse to reside here, where they have assemblies, +music, and all other diversions, (those of a court excepted) at very +moderate rates, all things being here in great abundance, especially +the best wild-fowl I ever tasted. I have already been visited by +some of the most considerable ladies, whose relations I know at +Vienna. They are dressed after the fashions there, after the manner +that the people at Exeter imitate those of London; that is, their +imitation is more excessive than the original. 'Tis not easy to +describe what extraordinary figures they make. The person is so much +lost between head-dress and petticoat, that they have as much +occasion to write upon their backs, "_This is a Woman_," for the +information of travellers, as ever sign-post painter had to write, +_"This is a Bear_." I will not forget to write to you again from +Dresden and Leipzig, being much more solicitous to content your +curiosity, than to indulge my own repose. I am, &c. + +LET. XV. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Leipzig, Nov_. 21. O. S. 1716. + +I BELIEVE, dear sister, you will easily forgive my not writing to you +from Dresden, as I promised, when I tell you, that I never went out +of my chaise from Prague to this place. You may imagine how heartily +I was tired with twenty-four hours post-travelling, without sleep or +refreshment (for I can never sleep in a coach, however fatigued.) We +passed, by moon-shine, the frightful precipices that divide Bohemia +from Saxony, at the bottom, of which runs the river Elbe; but I +cannot say, that I had reason to fear drowning in it, being perfectly +convinced, that in case of a tumble, it was utterly impossible to +come alive to the bottom. In many places, the road is so narrow, +that I could not discern an inch of space between the wheels and the +precipice. Yet I was so good a wife, as not to wake Mr W----y, who +was fast asleep by my side, to make him share in my fears, since the +danger was unavoidable, till I perceived, by the bright light of the +moon, our postilions nodding on horse-back, while the horses were on +a full gallop. Then indeed I thought it very convenient to call out +to desire them to look where they were going. My calling waked (sic) +Mr W----Y, and he was much more surprised than myself at the situation +we were in, and assured me, that he passed the Alps five times in +different places, without ever having gone a road so dangerous. I +have been told since, that 'tis common to find the bodies of +travellers in the Elbe; but, thank God, that was not our destiny; and +we came safe to Dresden, so much tired with fear and fatigue, it was +not possible for me to compose myself to write. After passing these +dreadful rocks, Dresden appeared to me a wonderfully agreeable +situation, in a fine large plain on the banks of the Elbe. I was +very glad to stay there a day to rest myself. The town is the +neatest I have seen in Germany; most of the houses are new built; the +elector's palace is very handsome, and his repository full of +curiosities of different kinds, with a collection of medals very much +esteemed. Sir ----, our king's envoy, came to see me here, and +Madame de L----, whom I knew in London, when her husband was minister +to the king of Poland there. She offered me all things in her power +to entertain me, and brought some ladies with her, whom she presented +to me. The Saxon ladies resemble the Austrian no more than the +Chinese do those of London; they are very genteelly dressed, after +the English and French modes, and have generally pretty faces, but +they are the most determined _minaudieres_ in the whole world. They +would think it a mortal sin against good-breeding, if they either +spoke or moved in a natural manner. They all affect a little soft +lisp, and a pretty pitty-pat step; which female frailties ought, +however, to be forgiven them, in favour of their civility and good +nature to strangers, which I have a great deal of reason to praise. + +THE countess of Cozelle is kept prisoner in a melancholy castle, some +leagues from hence; and I cannot forbear telling you what I have +heard of her, because it seems to me very extraordinary, though I +foresee I shall swell my letter to the size of a pacquet.--She was +mistress to the king of Poland, (elector of Saxony) with so absolute +a dominion over him, that never any lady had so much power in that +court. They tell a pleasant story of his majesty's first declaration +of love, which he made in a visit to her, bringing in one hand a bag +of a hundred thousand crowns, and in the other a horse-shoe, which he +snapped asunder before her face, leaving her to draw the consequences +of such remarkable proofs of strength and liberality. I know not +which charmed her most; but she consented to leave her husband, and +to give herself up to him entirely, being divorced publicly, in such +a manner, as, by their laws, permits either party to marry again. +God knows whether it was at this time, or in some other fond fit, but +'tis certain, the king had the weakness to make her a formal contract +of marriage; which, though it could signify nothing during the life +of the queen, pleased her so well, that she could not be contented, +without telling it to all the people she saw, and giving herself the +airs of a queen. Men endure every thing while they are in love; but +when the excess of passion was cooled by long possession, his +majesty began to reflect on the ill consequences of leaving such a +paper in her hands, and desired to have it restored to him. But she +rather chose to endure all the most violent effects of his anger, +than give it up; and though she is one of the richest and most +avaricious ladies of her country, she has refused the offer of the +continuation of a large pension, and the security of a vast sum of +money she has amassed; and has, at last, provoked the king to confine +her person to a castle, where she endures all the terrors of a strait +imprisonment, and remains still inflexible, either to threats or +promises. Her violent passions have brought her indeed into fits, +which 'tis supposed, will soon put an end to her life. I cannot +forbear having some compassion for a woman that suffers for a point +of honour, however mistaken, especially in a country where points of +honour are not over scrupulously observed among ladies. + +I COULD have wished Mr W----y's business had permitted him a longer +stay at Dresden. + +PERHAPS I am partial to a town where they profess the protestant +religion; but every thing seemed to me with quite another air of +politeness than I have found in other places. Leipzig, where I am at +present, is a town very considerable for its trade, and I take this +opportunity of buying pages liveries, gold stuffs for myself, &c. all +things of that kind being at least double the price at Vienna; partly +because of the excessive customs, and partly through want of genius +and industry in the people, who make no one sort of thing there; so +that the ladies are obliged to send, even for their shoes, out of +Saxony. The fair here is one of the most considerable in Germany, +and the resort of all the people of quality, as well as of the +merchants. This is also a fortified town, but I avoid ever +mentioning fortifications, being sensible that I know not how to +speak of them. I am the more easy Under my ignorance, when I reflect +that I am sure you'll willingly forgive the omission; for if I made +you the most exact description of all the ravelins and bastions I see +in my travels, I dare swear you would ask me, What is a ravelin? and, +What is a bastion? + +Adieu, my dear sister. + +LET. XVI. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Brunswick, Nov_. 23. O. S. 1716. + +I AM just come to Brunswick, a very old town, but which has the +advantage of being the capital of the duke of Wolsenbuttle's +dominions, a family (not to speak of its ancient honours) +illustrious, by having its younger branch on the throne of England, +and having given two empresses to Germany. I have not forgot to +drink your health here in mum, which I think very well deserves its +reputation of being the best in the world. This letter is the third +I have writ to you during my journey; and I declare to you, that if +you don't send me immediately a full and true account of all the +changes and chances among our London acquaintance, I will not write +you any description of Hanover (where I hope to be to-night) though I +know you have more curiosity to hear of that place than any other. + +LET. XVII. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF B----. + +_Hanover, Nov_. 25. O. S. 1716. + +I RECEIVED your ladyship's letter, but the day before I left Vienna, +though, by the date, I ought to have had it much sooner; but nothing +was ever worse regulated than the post in most parts of Germany. +I can assure you, the pacquet at Prague was behind my chaise, and in +that manner conveyed to Dresden, so that the secrets of half the +country were at my mercy, if I had had any curiosity for them. I +would not longer delay my thanks for yours, though the number of my +acquaintances here, and my duty of attending at court, leave me +hardly any time to dispose of. I am extremely pleased that I can +tell you, without flattery or partiality, that our young prince +[Footnote: The father of his present Majesty.] has all the +accomplishments that 'tis possible to have at his age, with an air of +sprightliness and understanding, and something so very engaging and +easy in his behaviour, that he needs not the advantage of his rank to +appear charming. I had the honour of a long conversation with him +last night, before the king came in. His governor retired on purpose +(as he told me afterwards) that I might make some judgment of his +genius, by hearing him speak without constraint; and I was surprised +at the quickness and politeness that appeared in every thing he said; +joined to a person perfectly agreeable, and the fine fair hair of the +princess. + +THIS town is neither large nor handsome; but the palace is capable of +holding a much greater court than that of St James's. The king has +had the goodness to appoint us a lodging in one part of it, without +which we should have been very ill accommodated; for the vast number +of English, crowds the town so much, 'tis very good luck to get one +sorry room in a miserable tavern. I dined to-day with the Portuguese +ambassador, who thinks himself very happy to have two wretched +parlours in an inn. I have now made the tour of Germany, and cannot +help observing a considerable difference between travelling here and +in England. One sees none of those fine seats of noblemen, so common +amongst us, nor any thing like a country gentleman's house, though +they have many situations perfectly fine. But the whole people are +divided into absolute sovereignties, where all the riches and +magnificence are at Court, or into communities of merchants, such as +Nurenburg (sic) and Frankfort, where they live always in town for the +convenience of trade. The king's company of French comedians play +here every night. They are very well dressed, and some of them not +ill actors. His majesty dines and sups constantly in public. The +court is very numerous, and his affability and goodness make it one +of the most agreeable places in the world. + +Dear madam, your, &c. &c. + +LET. XVIII. + +TO THE LADY R----. + +_Hanover, Oct_. 1. O. S. 1716. + +I AM very glad, my dear lady R----, that you have been so well +pleased, as you tell me, at the report of my returning to England; +though, like other pleasures, I can assure you it has no real +foundation. I hope you know me enough to take my word against any +report concerning me. 'Tis true, as to distance of place, I am much +nearer to London than I was some weeks ago; but, as to the thoughts +of a return, I never was farther off in my life. I own, I could with +great joy indulge the pleasing hopes of seeing you, and the very few +others that share my esteem; but while Mr W---- is determined to +proceed in his design, I am determined to follow him. I am running +on upon my own affairs, that is to say, I am going to write very +dully, as most people do when they write of themselves. I will make +haste to change the disagreeable subject, by telling you, that I am +now got into the region of beauty. All the women have (literally) +rosy cheeks, snowy foreheads and bosoms, jet eye-brows, and scarlet +lips, to which they generally add coal-black hair. Those perfections +never leave them, till the hour of their deaths, and have a very fine +effect by candle light; but I could wish they were handsome with a +little more variety. They resemble one another as much as Mrs +Salmon's court of Great Britain, and are in as much danger of melting +away, by too near approaching the fire, which they for that reason +carefully avoid, though 'tis now such excessive cold weather, that I +believe they suffer extremely by that piece of self-denial. The snow +is already very deep, and the people begin to slide about in their +traineaus. This is a favourite diversion all over Germany. They are +little machines fixed upon a sledge, that hold a lady and gentleman, +and are drawn by one horse. The gentleman has the honour of driving, +and they move with a prodigious swiftness. The lady, the horse, and +the traineau, are all as fine as they can be made; and when there are +many of them together, 'tis a very agreeable show. At Vienna, where +all pieces of magnificence are carried to excess, there are sometimes +machines of this kind, that cost five or six hundred pounds English. +The duke of Wolfenbuttle is now at this court; you know he is nearly +related to our king, and uncle to the reigning empress, who is, I +believe, the most beautiful princess upon earth. She is now with +child, which is all the consolation of the imperial court, for the +loss of the archduke. I took my leave of her the day before I left +Vienna, and she began to speak to me with so much grief and +tenderness, of the death of that young prince, I had much ado to +withhold my tears. You know that I am not at all partial to people +for their titles; but I own, that I love that charming princess, (if +I may use so familiar an expression) and if I had not, I should have +been very much moved at the tragical end of an only son, born, after +being so long desired, and at length killed by want of good +management, weaning him in the beginning of the winter. Adieu, dear +lady R----; continue to write to me, and believe none of your +goodness is lost upon Your, &c. + +LET. XIX. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Blankenburg, OCT_. 17. O. S. 1716. + +I RECEIVED your's, dear sister, the very day I left Hanover. You may +easily imagine I was then in too great a hurry to answer it; but you +see I take the first opportunity of doing myself that pleasure. I +came here the 15th, very late at night, after a terrible journey, in +the worst roads and weather that ever poor traveller suffered. I +have taken this little fatigue merely to oblige the reigning empress, +and carry a message from her imperial majesty to the duchess of +Blankenburg, her mother, who is a princess of great address and +good-breeding, and may be still called a fine woman. It was so late +when I came to this town, I did not think it proper to disturb the +duke and duchess with the news of my arrival; so I took up my +quarters in a miserable inn: but as soon as I had sent my compliments +to their highnesses, they immediately sent me their own coach and six +horses, which had however enough to do to draw us up the very high +hill on which the castle is situated. The duchess is extremely +obliging to me, and this little court is not without its diversions. +The duke taillys (sic) at basset every night; and the duchess tells +me, she is so well pleased with my company, that it makes her play +less than she used to do. I should find it very difficult to steal +time to write, if she was not now at church, where I cannot wait on +her, not understanding the language enough to pay my devotions in it. +You will not forgive me, if I do not say something of Hanover; I +cannot tell you that the town is either large or magnificent. The +opera house, which was built by the late elector, is much finer than +that of Vienna. I was very sorry that the ill weather did not permit +me to see Hernhausen in all its beauty; but in spite of the snow, I +thought the gardens very fine. I was particularly surprised at the +vast number of orange trees, much larger than any I have ever seen in +England, though this climate is certainly colder. But I had more +reason to wonder that night at the king's table, to see a present +from a gentleman of this country, of two large baskets full of ripe +oranges and lemons of different sorts, many of which were quite new +to me; and what I thought worth all the rest, two ripe ananasses +(sic), which, to my taste, are a fruit perfectly delicious. You know +they are naturally the growth of Brazil, and I could not imagine how +they came here, but by enchantment. Upon inquiry, I learnt that they +have brought their stoves to such perfection, they lengthen their +summer as long as they please, giving to every plant the degree of +heat it would receive from the sun in its native soil. The effect is +very near the same; I am surprised we do not practise (sic) in +England so useful an invention. This reflection leads me to consider +our obstinacy in shaking with cold, five months in the year rather +than make use of stoves, which are certainly one of the greatest +conveniencies (sic) of life. Besides, they are so far from spoiling +the form of a room, that they add very much to the magnificence of +it, when they are painted and gilt, as they are at Vienna, or at +Dresden, where they are often in the shapes of china jars, statues, +or fine cabinets, so naturally represented, that they are not to be +distinguished. If ever I return, in defiance to the fashion, you +shall certainly see one in the chamber of, Dear sister, your, &c. + +I WILL write often, since you desire it: but I must beg you to be a +little more particular in your's; you fancy me at forty miles +distance, and forget, that, after so long an absence, I can't +understand hints. + +LET. XX. + +TO THE LADY ----. + +_Vienna, Jan_. 1. O. S. 1717 + +I HAVE just received here at Vienna, your ladyship's compliments on +my return to England, sent me from Hanover. You see, madam, all +things that are asserted with confidence are not absolutely true; and +that you have no sort of reason to complain of me for making my +designed return a mystery to you, when you say, all the world are +informed of it. You may tell all the world in my name, that they are +never so well informed of my affairs as I am myself; that I am very +positive I am at this time at Vienna, where the carnival is begun, +and all sorts of diversions are carried to the greatest height, +except that of masquing (sic), which is never permitted during a war +with the Turks. The balls are in public places, where the men pay a +gold ducat at entrance, but the ladies nothing. I am told, that +these houses get sometimes a thousand ducats in a night. They are +very magnificently furnished, and the music good, if they had not +that detestible (sic) custom of mixing hunting horns with it, that +almost deafen the company. But that noise is so agreeable here, they +never make a concert without them. The ball always concludes with +English country dances, to the number of thirty or forty couple, and +so ill danced, that there is very little pleasure in them. They know +but half a dozen, and they have danced them over and over these fifty +years: I would fain have taught them some new ones, but I found it +would be some months labour to make them comprehend them. Last night +there was an Italian comedy acted at court. The scenes were pretty, +but the comedy itself such intolerable low farce, without either wit +or humour, that I was surprised how all the court could sit there +attentively for four hours together. No women are suffered to act on +the stage, and the men dressed like them, were such awkward figures, +they very much added to the ridicule of the spectacle. What +completed the diversion, was the excessive cold, which was so great, +I thought I should have died there. It is now the very extremity of +the winter here; the Danube is entirely frozen, and the weather not +to be supported without stoves and furs; but, however, the air so +clear, almost every body is well, and colds not half so common as in +England. I am persuaded there cannot be a purer air, nor more +wholesome, than that of Vienna. The plenty and excellence of all +sorts of provisions are greater here than in any place I ever was +before, and 'tis not very expensive to keep a splendid table. 'Tis +really a pleasure to pass through the markets, and see the abundance +of what we should think rarities, of fowls and venison, that are +daily brought in from Hungary and Bohemia. They want nothing but +shell-fish, and are so fond of oysters, that they have them sent from +Venice, and eat them very greedily, stink or not stink. Thus I obey +your commands, madam, in giving you an account of Vienna, though I +know you will not be satisfied with it. You chide me for my +laziness, in not telling you a thousand agreeable and surprising +things, that you say you are sure I have seen and heard. Upon my +Word, madam, 'tis my regard to truth, and not laziness, that I do not +entertain you with as many prodigies as other travellers use to +divert their readers with. I might easily pick up wonders in every +town I pass through, or tell you a long series of popish miracles; +but I cannot fancy, that there is any thing new in letting you know +that priests will lie, and the mob believe, all the world over. Then +as for news, that you are so inquisitive about, how can it be +entertaining to you (that don't know the people) that the prince +of ---- has forsaken the countess of ----? or that the prince such a +one, has an intrigue with the countess such a one? Would you have me +write novels like the countess of D'----? and is it not better to +tell you a plain truth, That I am, &c. + +LET. XXI. + +To THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Vienna, Jan_. 16. O. S. 1717. + +I AM now, dear sister, to take leave of you for a long time, and of +Vienna for ever; designing to-morrow, to begin my journey through +Hungary, in spite of the excessive cold, and deep snows, which are +enough to damp a greater courage than I am mistress of. But my +principles of _passive obedience_, carries me through every thing. I +have had my audience of leave of the empress. His imperial majesty +was pleased to be present, when I waited on the reigning empress; +and, after a very obliging conversation, both their imperial +majesties invited me to take Vienna in my road back; but I have no +thoughts of enduring, over again, so great a fatigue. I delivered a +letter from the duchess of Blankenburg. I stayed but a few days at +that court, though her highness pressed me very much to stay; and +when I left her, engaged me to write to her. I wrote you a long +letter from thence, which I hope you have received, though you don't +mention it; but I believe I forgot to tell you one curiosity in all +the German courts, which I cannot forbear taking notice of: All the +princes keep favourite dwarfs. The emperor and empress have two of +these little monsters, as ugly as devils, especially the female; but +they are all bedaubed with diamonds, and stand at her majesty's +elbow, in all public places. The duke of Wolfenbuttle has one, and +the duchess of Blankenburg is not without hers, but indeed the most +proportionable I ever saw. I am told the king of Denmark has so far +improved upon this fashion, that his dwarf is his chief minister. I +can assign no reason for their fondness for these pieces of +deformity, but the opinion all the absolute princes have, that it is +below them to converse with the rest of mankind; and not to be quite +alone, they are forced to seek their companions among the refuse of +human nature, these creatures being the only part of their court +privileged to talk freely to them. I am at present confined to my +chamber by a sore throat; and am really glad of the excuse, to avoid +seeing people, that I love well enough, to be very much mortified +when I think I am going to part with them for ever. 'Tis true, the +Austrians are not commonly the most polite people in the world, nor +the most agreeable. But Vienna is inhabited by all nations, and I +had formed to myself a little society of such as were perfectly to my +own taste. And though the number was not very great, I could never +pick up, in any other place, such a number of reasonable, agreeable +people. We were almost always together, and you know I have ever +been of opinion, that a chosen conversation, composed of a few that +one esteems, is the greatest happiness of life. Here are some +Spaniards of both sexes, that have all the vivacity and generosity of +sentiments anciently ascribed to their nation; and could I believe +that the whole kingdom were like them, I would with nothing more +than to end my days there. The ladies of my acquaintance have so +much goodness for me, they cry whenever they see me, since I have +determined to undertake this journey. And, indeed, I am not very +easy when I reflect on what I am going to suffer. Almost every body +I see frights me with some new difficulty. Prince Eugene has been so +good as to say all the things he could, to persuade me to stay till +the Danube is thawed, that I may have the conveniency of going by +water; assuring me, that the houses in Hungary are such, as are no +defence against the weather; and that I shall be obliged to travel +three or four days between Buda and Essek, without finding any house +at all, through desert plains covered with snow; where the cold is so +violent, many have been killed by it. I own these terrors have made +a very deep impression on my mind, because I believe he tells me +things truly as they are, and no body can be better informed of them. + +NOW I have named that great man, I am sure you expect I should say +Something particular of him, having the advantage of seeing him very +often; but I am as unwilling to speak of him at Vienna, as I should +be to talk of Hercules in the court of Omphale, if I had seen him +there. I don't know what comfort other people find in considering +the weakness of great men, (because, perhaps, it brings them nearer +to their level) but 'tis always a mortification to me, to observe +that there is no perfection in humanity. The young prince of +Portugal is the admiration of the whole court; he is handsome and +polite, with a great vivacity. All the officers tell wonders of his +gallantry the last campaign. He is lodged at court with all the +honours due to his rank.--Adieu, dear sister: this is the last +account you will have from me of Vienna. If I survive my journey, +you shall hear from me again. I can say, with great truth, in the +words of Moneses (sic), _I have long learnt to hold myself as +nothing_; but when I think of the fatigue my poor infant must suffer, +I have all a mother's fondness in my eyes, and all her tender +passions in my heart. + +_P. S._ I have written a letter to my lady ----, that I believe she +won't like; and, upon cooler reflection, I think I had done better to +have let it alone; but I was downright peevish at all her questions, +and her ridiculous imagination, that I have certainly seen abundance +of wonders which I keep to myself out of mere malice. She is very +angry that I won't lie like other travellers. I verily believe she +expects I should tell her of the _Anthropophagi_, men whose heads +grow below their shoulders; however, pray say Something to pacify +her. + +LET. XXII. + +TO MR POPE. + +_Vienna, Jan_. 16. O. S. 1717. + +I HAVE not time to answer your letter, being in the hurry of +preparing for my journey; but, I think, I ought to bid adieu to my +friends with the same solemnity as if I was going to mount a breach, +at least, if I am to believe the information of the people here, who +denounce all sorts of terrors to me; and, indeed, the weather is at +present such, as very few ever set out in. I am threatened at the +same time, with being frozen to death, buried in the snow, and taken +by the Tartars, who ravage that part of Hungary I am to pass. 'Tis +true, we shall have a considerable _escorte_ (sic), so that possibly +I may be diverted with a new scene, by finding myself in the midst of +a battle. How my adventures will conclude, I leave entirely to +Providence; if comically, you shall hear of them.--Pray be so good as +to tell Mr ---- I have received his letter. Make him my adieus; if I +live, I will answer it. The same compliment to my lady R----. + + +LET. XXIII. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Peterwaradin, Jan_. 30. O. S. 1717. + +AT length, dear sister I am safely arrived, with all my family, in +good health, at Peterwaradin; having suffered so little from the +rigour of the season, (against which we were well provided by furs) +and found such tolerable accommodation every where, by the care of +sending before, that I can hardly forbear laughing, when I recollect +all the frightful ideas that were given me of this journey. These, I +see, were wholly owing to the tenderness of my Vienna friends, and +their desire of keeping me with them for this winter. Perhaps it +will not be disagreeable to you, to give a short journal of my +journey, being through a country entirely unknown to you, and very +little passed, even by the Hungarians themselves, who generally chuse +to take the conveniency of going down the Danube. We have had the +blessing of being favoured with finer weather than is common at this +time of the year; though the snow was so deep, we were obliged to +have our own coaches fixed upon traineaus, which move so swift and so +easily, 'tis by far the most agreeable manner of travelling post. We +came to Raab (the second day from Vienna) on the seventeenth instant, +where Mr W---- sending word of our arrival to the governor, the best +house in the town was provided for us, the garrison put under arms, a +guard ordered at our door, and all other honours paid to us. The +governor, and all other officers immediately waited on Mr W----, to +know if there was any thing to be done for his service. The bishop +of Temeswar came to visit us, with great civility, earnestly pressing +us to dine with him next day; which we refusing, as being resolved to +pursue our journey, he sent us several baskets of winter fruit, and a +great variety of Hungarian wines, with a young hind just killed. +This is a prelate of great power in this country, of the ancient +family of Nadasti, so considerable for many ages, in this kingdom. +He is a very polite, agreeable, cheerful old man, wearing the +Hungarian habit, with a venerable white beard down to his +girdle.--Raab is a strong town, well garrisoned and fortified, and +was a long time the frontier town between the Turkish and German +empires. It has its name from the River Rab, on which it is +situated, just on its meeting with the Danube, in an open champaign +(sic) country. It was first taken by the Turks, under the command of +bassa Sinan, in the reign of sultan Amurath III. in the year fifteen +hundred and ninety-four. The governor, being supposed to have +betrayed it, was afterwards beheaded by the emperor's command. The +counts of Swartzenburg; and Palsi retook it by surprise, 1598; since +which time it has remained in the hands of the Germans, though the +Turks once more attempted to gain it by stratagem in 1642. The +cathedral is large and well built, which is all I saw remarkable in +the town. Leaving Comora on the other side the river, we went the +eighteenth to Nosmuhl, a small village, where however, we made shift +to find tolerable accommodation. We continued two days travelling +between this place and Buda, through the finest plains in the world, +as even as if they were paved, and extremely fruitful; but for the +most part desert and uncultivated, laid waste by the long wars +between the Turk and the Emperor; and the more cruel civil war, +occasioned by the barbarous persecution of the protestant religion by +the emperor Leopold. That prince has left behind him the character +of an extraordinary piety, and was naturally of a mild merciful +temper; but, putting his conscience into the hands of a Jesuit, he +was more cruel and treacherous to his poor Hungarian subjects, than +ever the Turk has been to the Christians; breaking, without scruple +his coronation oath, and his faith, solemnly given in many public +treaties. Indeed, nothing can be more melancholy than in travelling +through Hungary, to reflect on the former flourishing state of that +kingdom, and to see such a noble spot of earth almost uninhabited. +Such are also the present circumstances of Buda (where we arrived +very early the twenty-second) once the royal seat of the Hungarian +kings, whose palace was reckoned one of the most beautiful buildings +of the age, now wholly destroyed, no part of the town having been +repaired since the last siege, but the fortifications and the castle, +which is the present residence of the governor general Ragule, an +officer of great merit. He came immediately to see us, and carried +us in his coach to his house, where I was received by his lady with +all possible civility, and magnificently entertained. This city is +situated upon a little hill on the south side of the Danube. The +castle is much higher than the town, and from it the prospect is very +noble. Without the walls ly (sic) a vast number of little houses, or +rather huts, that they call the Rascian town, being altogether +inhabited by that people. The governor assured me, it would furnish +twelve thousand fighting men. These towns look very odd; their +houses stand in rows, many thousands of them so close together, that +they appear, at a little distance, like old-fashioned thatched tents. +They consist, every one of them, of one hovel above, and another +under ground; these are their summer and winter apartments. Buda was +first taken by Solyman the Magnificent, in 1526, and lost the +following year to Ferdinand I, king of Bohemia. Solyman regained it +by the treachery of the garrison, and voluntarily gave it into the +hands of king John of Hungary; after whose death, his son being an +infant, Ferdinand laid siege to it, and the queen mother was forced +to call Solyman to her aid. He indeed raised the siege, but left a +Turkish garrison in the town, and commanded her to remove her court +from thence, which she was forced to submit to, in 1541. It resisted +afterwards the sieges laid to it by the marquis of Brandenburg, in +the year 1542; count Schwartzenburg, in 1598; General Rosworm, in +1602; and the duke of Lorrain, commander of the emperor's +forces, in 1684, to whom it yielded, in 1686, after an obstinate +defence, Apti Bassa, the governor, being killed, fighting in the +breach with a Roman bravery. The loss of this town was so important, +and so much resented by the Turks, that it occasioned the deposing of +their emperor Mahomet IV. the year following. + +WE did not proceed on our journey till the twenty-third, when we +passed through Adam and Todowar, both considerable towns, when in the +hands of the Turks, but now quite ruined. The remains, however, of +some Turkish towns, shew something of what they have been. This part +of the country is very much overgrown with wood, and little +frequented. 'Tis incredible what vast numbers of wild-fowl we saw, +which often live here to a good old age,--and _undisturb'd by guns, +in quiet sleep_.--We came the five and twentieth, to Mohatch, and +were shewed the field near it, where Lewis, the young king of Hungary +lost his army and his life, being drowned in a ditch, trying to fly +from Balybeus, general of Solyman the Magnificent. This battle +opened the first passage for the Turks into the heart of Hungary.--I +don't name to you the little villages, of which I can say nothing +remarkable; but I'll assure you, I have always found a warm stove, +and great plenty, particularly of wild boar, venison, and all kinds +of _gibier_. The few people that inhabit Hungary, live easily +enough; they have no money, but the woods and plains afford them +provision in great abundance; they were ordered to give us all things +necessary, even what horses we pleased to demand, _gratis_; but Mr +W----y would not oppress the poor country people, by making use of +this order, and always paid them to the full worth of what we had. +They were so surprised at this unexpected generosity, which they are +very little used to, that they always pressed upon us, at parting, a +dozen of fat pheasants, or something of that sort, for a present. +Their dress is very primitive, being only a plain sheep's skin, and a +cap and boots of the same stuff. You may easily imagine this lasts +them many winters; and thus they have very little occasion for money. +The twenty-sixth, we passed over the frozen Danube, with all our +equipage and carriages. We met on the other side general Veterani, +who invited us, with great civility, to pass the night at a little +castle of his, a few miles off, assuring us we should have a very +hard day's journey to reach Essek. This we found but too true, the +woods being very dangerous, and scarce passable, from the vast +quantity of wolves that hoard in them. We came, however, safe, +though late to Essek, where we stayed a day, to dispatch a courier +with letters to the bassa of Belgrade; and I took that opportunity of +seeing the town, which is not very large, but fair built, and well +fortified. This was a town of great trade, very rich and populous, +when in the hands of the Turks. It is situated on the Drave, which +runs into the Danube. The bridge was esteemed one of the most +extraordinary in the world, being eight thousand paces long, and all +built of oak. It was burnt, and the city laid in ashes by count +Lesly, 1685, but was again repaired and fortified by the Turks, who, +however, abandoned it in 1687. General Dunnewalt then took +possession of it for the emperor, in whose hands it has remained ever +since, and is esteemed one of the bulwarks of Hungary. The +twenty-eighth, we went to Bocorwar, a very large Rascian town, all +built after the manner I have described to you. We were met there by +colonel ----, who would not suffer us to go any where but to his +quarters, where I found his wife, a very agreeable Hungarian lady, +and his niece and daughter, two pretty young women, crowded into +three or four Rascian houses, cast into one, and made as neat and +convenient as those places are capable of being made. The Hungarian +ladies are much handsomer than those of Austria. All the Vienna +beauties are of that country; they are generally very fair and +well-shaped, and their dress, I think, is extremely becoming. This +lady was in a gown of scarlet velvet, lined and faced with sables, +made exact to her shape, and the skirt falling to her feet. The +sleeves are strait to their arms, and the stays buttoned before, with +two rows of little buttons of gold, pearl, or diamonds. On their +heads they wear a tassel of gold, that hangs low on one side, lined +with sable, or some other fine fur.---They gave us a handsome dinner, +and I thought the conversation very polite and agreeable. They would +accompany us part of our way. The twenty-ninth, we arrived here, +where we were met by the commanding officer, at the head of all the +officers of the garrison. We are lodged in the best apartment of the +governor's house, and entertained in a very splendid manner by the +emperor's order. We wait here till all points are adjusted, +concerning our reception on the Turkish frontiers. Mr W----'s +courier, which he sent from Essek, returned this morning, with the +bassa's answer in a purse of scarlet satin, which the interpreter +here has translated. 'Tis to promise him to be honourably received. +I desired him to appoint where he would be met by the Turkish +convoy.--He has dispatched the courier back, naming Betsko, a village +in the midway between Peterwaradin and Belgrade. We shall stay here +till we receive his answer.--Thus, dear sister, I have given you a +very particular, and (I am afraid you'll think) a tedious account of +this part of my travels. It was not an affectation of shewing my +reading that has made me tell you some little scraps of the history +of the towns I have passed through; I have always avoided any thing +of that kind, when I spoke Of places that I believe you knew the +story of as well as myself. But Hungary being a part of the world, +which I believe quite new to you, I thought you might read with some +pleasure an account of it, which I have been very solicitous to get +from the best hands. However, if you don't like it, 'tis in your +power to forbear reading it. I am, dear sister, &c. + +I AM promised to have this letter carefully sent to Vienna. + + +LET. XXIV. + +TO MR POPE. + +_Belgrade, Feb_. 12. O. S. 1717. + +I DID verily intend to write you a long letter from Peterwaradin, +where I expected to stay three or four days; but the bassa here was +in such haste to see us, that he dispatched the courier back (which +Mr W---- had sent to know the time he would send the convoy to meet +us) without suffering him to pull off his boots. My letters were not +thought important enough to stop our journey; and we left +Peterwaradin the next day, being waited on by the chief officers of +the garrison, and a considerable convoy of Germans and Rascians. The +emperor has several regiments of these people; but, to say the truth, +they are rather plunderers than soldiers; having no pay, and being +obliged to furnish their own arms and horses; they rather look like +vagabond gypsies, or stout beggars, than regular troops. I cannot +forbear speaking a word of this race of creatures, who are very +numerous all over Hungary. They have a patriarch of their own at +Grand Cairo, and are really of the Greek church; but their extreme +ignorance gives their priests occasion to impose several new notions +upon them. These fellows, letting their hair and beard grow +inviolate, make exactly the figure of the Indian bramins (sic). They +are heirs-general to all the money of the laity; for which, in +return, they give them formal passports signed and sealed for heaven; +and the wives and children only inherit the house and cattle. In +most other points they follow the Greek church.--This little +digression has interrupted my telling you we passed over the fields +of Carlowitz, where the last great victory was obtained by prince +Eugene over the Turks. The marks of that glorious bloody day are yet +recent, the field being yet strewed with the skulls and carcasses of +unburied men, horses, and camels. I could not look, without horror, +on such numbers of mangled human bodies, nor without reflecting on +the injustice of war, that makes murder not only necessary but +meritorious. Nothing seems to be a plainer proof of the +_irrationality_ of mankind (whatever fine claims we pretend to +reason) than the rage with which they contest for a small spot of +ground, when such vast parts of fruitful earth lie quite uninhabited. +'Tis true, custom has now made it unavoidable; but can there be a +greater demonstration of want of reason, than a custom being firmly +established, so plainly contrary to the interest of man in general? +I am a good deal inclined to believe Mr Hobbs, that the _state of +nature_ is a _state of war_; but thence I conclude human nature, not +rational, if the word reason means common sense, as I suppose it +does. I have a great many admirable arguments to support this +refection; I won't however trouble you with them, but return, in a +plain style, to the history of my travels. + +WE were met at Betsko (a village in the midway between Belgrade and +Peterwaradin) by an aga of the janizaries, with a body of Turks, +exceeding the Germans by one hundred men, though the bassa had +engaged to send exactly the same number. You may judge by this of +their fears. I am really persuaded, that they hardly thought the +odds of one hundred men set them even with the Germans; however, I +was very uneasy till they were parted, fearing some quarrel might +arise, notwithstanding the parole given. We came late to Belgrade, +the deep snows making the ascent to it very difficult. It seems a +strong city, fortified on the east side by the Danube; and on the +south by the river Save, and was formerly the barrier of Hungary. It +was first taken by Solyman the Magnificent, and since by the +emperor's forces, led by the elector of Bavaria. The emperor held it +only two Years, it being retaken by the grand vizier. It is now +fortified with the utmost care and skill the Turks are capable of, +and strengthened by a very numerous garrison of their bravest +janizaries, commanded by a bassa seraskier (i.e. general) though this +last expression is not very just; for, to say truth, the seraskier is +commanded by the janizaries. These troops have an absolute authority +here, and their conduct carries much more the aspect of rebellion, +than the appearance of subordination. You may judge of this by the +following story, which, at the same time, will give you an idea of +the _admirable_ intelligence of the governor of Peterwaradin, though +so few hours distant. We were told by him at Peterwaradin, that the +garrison and inhabitants of Belgrade were so weary of the war, they +had killed their bassa about two months ago, in a mutiny, because he +had suffered himself to be prevailed upon, by a bribe of five purses +(five hundred pounds sterling) to give permission to the Tartars to +ravage the German frontiers. We were very well pleased to hear of +such favourable dispositions in the people; but when we came hither, +we found the governor had been ill-informed, and the real truth of +the story to be this. The late bassa fell under the displeasure of +his soldiers; for no other reason, but restraining their incursions +on the Germans. They took it into their heads, from that mildness, +that he had intelligence with the enemy, and sent such information to +the grand signior at Adrianople; but, redress not coming quick enough +from thence, they assembled themselves in a tumultuous manner, and by +force dragged their bassa before the cadi and mufti, and there +demanded justice in a mutinous way; one crying out, Why he protected +the infidels? Another, Why he squeezed them of their money? The +bassa easily guessing their purpose, calmly replied to them, that +they asked him too many questions, and that he had but one life, +which must answer for all. They then immediately fell upon him with +their scimitars (without waiting the sentence of their heads of the +law) and in a few moments cut him in pieces. The present bassa has +not dared to punish the murder; on the contrary, he affected to +applaud the actors of it, as brave fellows, that knew to do +themselves justice. He takes all pretences of throwing money among +the garrison, and suffers them to make little excursions into +Hungary, where they burn some poor Rascian houses. + +You may imagine, I cannot be very easy in a town which is really +under the government of an insolent soldiery.--We expected to be +immediately dismissed, after a night's lodging here, but the bassa +detains us till he receives orders from Adrianople, which may, +possibly be a month a-coming. In the mean time, we are lodged in one +of the best houses, belonging to a very considerable man amongst +them, and have a whole chamber of janizaries to guard us. My only +diversion is the conversation of our host, Achmet Beg, a title +something like that of count in Germany. His father was a great +bassa, and he has been educated in the most polite eastern learning, +being perfectly skilled in the Arabic and Persian languages, and an +extraordinary scribe, which they call _effendi_. This accomplishment +makes way to the greatest preferments; but he has had the good sense +to prefer an easy, quiet, secure life, to all the dangerous honours +of the Porte. He sups with us every night, and drinks wine very +freely. You cannot imagine how much he is delighted with the liberty +of conversing with me. He has explained to me many pieces of Arabian +poetry, which, I observe, are in numbers not unlike ours, generally +of an alternate verse, and of a very musical sound. Their +expressions of love are very passionate and lively. I am so much +pleased with them, I really believe I should learn to read Arabic, if +I was to stay here a few months. He has a very good library of their +books of all kinds; and, as he tells me, spends the greatest part of +his life there. I pass for a great scholar with him, by relating to +him some of the Persian tales, which I find are genuine. At first he +believed I understood Persian. I have frequent disputes with him +concerning the difference of our customs, particularly the +confinement of women. He assures me, there is nothing at all in it; +only, says he, we have the advantage, that when our wives cheat us, +nobody knows it. He has wit, and is more polite than many Christian +men of quality. I am very much entertained with him.--He has had the +curiosity to make one of our servants set him an alphabet of our +letters, and can already write a good Roman hand. But these +amusements do not hinder my wishing heartily to be out of this place; +though the weather is colder than I believe it ever was, any where, +but in Greenland.--We have a very large stove constantly kept hot, +and yet the windows of the room are frozen on the inside.--God knows +when I may have an opportunity of sending this letter: but I have +written it, for the discharge of my own conscience and you cannot now +reproach me, that one of yours makes ten of mine. Adieu. + +LET. XXV. + +To HER R. H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES +[Footnote: The late Queen Caroline.] + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717. + +I HAVE now, madam, finished a journey that has not been undertaken by +any Christian since the time of the Greek emperors: and I shall not +regret all the fatigues I have suffered in it, if it gives me an +opportunity of amusing your R. H. by an account of places utterly +unknown amongst us; the emperor's ambassadors, and those few English +that have come hither, always going on the Danube to Nicopolis. But +the river was now frozen, and Mr W---- was so zealous for the service +of his Majesty, that he would not defer his journey to wait for the +conveniency of that passage. We crossed the deserts of Servia (sic), +almost quite over-grown with wood, through a country naturally +fertile. The inhabitants are industrious; but the oppression of the +peasants is so great, they are forced to abandon their houses, and +neglect their tillage, all they have being a prey to the janizaries, +whenever they please to seize upon it. We had a guard of five +hundred of them, and I was almost in tears every day, to see their +insolencies (sic) in the poor villages through which we +passed.--After seven days travelling through thick woods, we came to +Nissa, once the capital of Servia, situated in a fine plain on the +river Nissava, in a very good air, and so fruitful a soil, that the +great plenty is hardly credible. I was certainly assured, that the +quantity of wine last vintage was so prodigious, that they were +forced to dig holes in the earth to put it in, not having vessels +enough in the town to hold it. The happiness of this plenty is +scarce perceived by the oppressed people. I saw here a new occasion +for my compassion. The wretches that had provided twenty waggons for +our baggage from Belgrade hither for a certain hire, being all sent +back without payment, some of their horses lamed (sic), and others +killed, without any satisfaction made for them. The poor fellows +came round the house weeping and tearing their hair and beards in a +most pitiful manner, without getting any thing but drubs from the +insolent soldiers. I cannot express to your R. H. how much I was +moved at this scene. I would have paid them the money out of my own +pocket, with all my heart; but it Would only have been giving so much +to the aga, who would have taken it from them without any remorse. +After four days journey from this place over the mountains, we came +to Sophia, situated in a large beautiful plain on the river Isca, and +surrounded with distant mountains. 'Tis hardly possible to see a +more agreeable landscape. The city itself is very large, and +extremely populous. Here are hot baths, very famous for their +medicinal virtues.--Four days journey from hence we arrived at +Philippopolis, after having passed the ridges between the mountains +of Haemus and Rhodope, which are always covered with snow. This town +is situated on a rising ground near the river Hebrus, and is almost +wholly inhabited by Greeks; here are still some ancient Christian +churches. They have a bishop; and several Of the richest Greeks live +here; but they are forced to conceal their wealth with great care, +the appearance of poverty [which includes part of its inconveniencies +(sic)] being all their security against feeling it in earnest. The +country from hence to Adrianople, is the finest in the world. Vines +grow wild on all the hills; and the perpetual spring they enjoy makes +every thing gay and flourishing. But this climate, happy as it +seems, can never be preferred to England, with all its frosts and +snows, while we are blessed with an easy government, under a king, +who makes his own happiness consist in the liberty of his people, and +chuses rather to be looked upon as their father than their +master.--This theme would carry me very far, and I am sensible, I +have already tired out your R. H.'s patience. But my letter is in +your hands, and you may make it as short as you please, by throwing +it into the fire, when weary of reading it. I am, madam, + With the greatest respect, &c. + +LET. XXVI. + +TO THE LADY ----. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717. + +I AM now got into a new world, where every thing I see appears to me +a change of scene; and I write to your ladyship with some content of +mind, hoping, at least, that you will find the charms of novelty in +my letters, and no longer reproach me, that I tell you nothing +extraordinary. I won't trouble you with a relation of our tedious +journey; but must not omit what I saw remarkable at Sophia, one of +the most beautiful towns in the Turkish empire, and famous for its +hot baths, that are resorted to both for diversion and health. I +stopped here one day, on purpose to see them; and, designing to go +_incognito_, I hired a Turkish coach. These voitures are not at all +like ours, but much more convenient for the country, the heat being +so great, that glasses would be very troublesome. They are made a +good deal in the manner of the Dutch stage-coaches, having wooden +lattices painted and gilded; the inside being also painted with +baskets and nosegays of flowers, intermixed commonly with little +poetical mottos. They are covered all over with scarlet cloth, lined +with silk, and very often richly embroidered and fringed. This +covering entirely hides the persons in them, but may be thrown back +at pleasure, and thus permits the ladies to peep through the +lattices. They hold four people very conveniently, seated on +cushions, but not raised. + +IN one of these covered waggons (sic), I went to the bagnio about ten +o'clock. It was already full of women. It is built of stone, in the +shape of a dome, with no windows but in the roof, which gives light +enough. There were five of these domes joined together, the outmost +being less than the rest, and serving only as a hall, where the +portress stood at the door. Ladies of quality generally give this +woman a crown or ten shillings; and I did not forget that ceremony. +The next room is a very large one paved with marble, and all round it +are two raised sofas of marble, one above another. There were four +fountains of cold water in this room, falling first into marble +basons (sic), and then running on the floor in little channels made +for that purpose, which carried the streams into the next room, +something less than this, with the same sort of marble sofas, but so +hot with steams of sulphur proceeding from the baths joining to it, +'twas impossible to stay there with one's cloaths (sic) on. The two +other domes were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of cold water +turning into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the bathers +pleased to have. + +I WAS in my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and certainly +appeared very extraordinary to them. Yet there was not one of them +that shewed the least surprise or impertinent curiosity, but received +me with all the obliging civility possible. I know no European +court, where the ladies would have behaved themselves in so polite a +manner to such a stranger. I believe, upon the whole, there were two +hundred women, and yet none of those disdainful smiles, and satirical +whispers, that never fail in our assemblies, when any body appears +that is not dressed exactly in the fashion. They repeated over and +over to me; "UZELLE, PEK UZELLE," which is nothing but, _Charming, +very Charming_.--The first sofas were covered with cushions and rich +carpets, on which sat the ladies; and on the second, their slaves +behind them, but without any distinction of rank by their dress, all +being in the state of nature, that is, in plain English, stark naked, +without any beauty or defect concealed. Yet there was not the least +wanton smile or immodest gesture amongst them. They walked and moved +with the same majestic grace, which Milton describes our general +mother with. There were many amongst them, as exactly proportioned as +ever any goddess was drawn by the pencil of a Guido or Titian,--and +most of their skins shiningly white, only adorned by their beautiful +hair divided into many tresses, hanging on their shoulders, braided +either with pearl or ribbon, perfectly representing the figures of +the Graces. + +I WAS here convinced of the truth of a reflection I have often made, +_That if it were the fashion to go naked, the face would be hardly +observed_. I perceived, that the ladies of the most delicate skins +and finest shapes had the greatest share of my admiration, though +their faces were sometimes less beautiful than those of their +companions. To tell you the truth, I had wickedness enough, to wish +secretly, that Mr Gervais could have been there invisible. I fancy +it would have very much improved his art, to see so many fine women +naked, in different postures, some in conversation, some working, +others drinking coffee or sherbet, and many negligently lying on +their cushions, while their slaves (generally pretty girls of +seventeen or eighteen) were employed in braiding their hair in +several pretty fancies. In short, 'tis the women's coffee-house, +where all the news of the town is told, scandal invented, &c.--They +generally take this diversion once a-week (sic), and stay there at +least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediate coming +out of the hot bath into the cold room, which was very surprising to +me. The lady, that seemed the most considerable among them, +entreated me to sit by her, and would fain have undressed me for the +bath. I excused myself with some difficulty. They being however all +so earnest in persuading me, I was at last forced to open my shirt, +and shew them my stays; which satisfied them very well; for, I saw, +they believed I was locked up in that machine, and that it was not in +my own power to open it, which contrivance they attributed to my +husband,--I was charmed with their civility and beauty, and should +have been very glad to pass more time with them; but Mr +W---- resolving to pursue his journey next morning early, I was in +haste to see the ruins of Justinian's church, which did not afford me +so agreeable a prospect as I had left, being little more than a heap +Of stones. + +ADIEU, madam, I am sure I have now entertained you with an account of +such a sight as you never saw in your life, and what no book of +travels could inform you of, as 'tis no less than death for a man to +be found in one of these places. + +LET. XXVII. + +TO THE ABBOT ----. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717. + +You see I am very exact in keeping the promise you engaged me to +make. I know not, however, whether your curiosity will be satisfied +with the accounts I shall give you, though I can assure you, the +desire I have to oblige you to the utmost of my power, has made me +very diligent in my enquiries and observations. 'Tis certain we have +but very imperfect accounts of the manners and religion of these +people; this part of the world being seldom visited, but by +merchants, who mind little but their own affairs; or travellers, who +make too short a stay, to be able to report any thing exactly of +their own knowledge. The Turks are too proud to converse familiarly +with merchants, who can only pick up some confused informations, +which are generally false; and can give no better account of the ways +here, than a French refugee, lodging in a garret in Greek-street, +could write of the court of England. The journey we have made from +Belgrade hither, cannot possibly be passed by any out of a public +character. The desert woods of Servia, are the common refuge of +thieves, who rob fifty in a company, so that we had need of all our +guards to secure us; and the villages are so poor, that only force +could extort from them necessary provisions. Indeed the janizaries +had no mercy on their poverty, killing all the poultry and sheep they +could find, without asking to whom they belonged; while the wretched +owners durst not put in their claim, for fear of being beaten. Lambs +just fallen, geese and turkies (sic) big with egg, all massacred +without distinction! I fancied I heard the complaints of Melibeus +for the hope of his flock. When the bassas travel, 'tis yet worse. +These oppressors are not content with eating all that is to be eaten +belonging to the peasants; after they have crammed themselves and +their numerous retinue, they have the impudence to exact what they +call _teeth-money_, a contribution for the use of their teeth, worn +with doing them the honour of devouring their meat. This is +literally and exactly true, however extravagant it may seem; and such +is the natural corruption of a military government, their religion +not allowing of this barbarity, any more than ours does. + +I HAD the advantage of lodging three weeks at Belgrade, with a +principal effendi, that is to say a scholar. This set of men are +equally capable of preferments in the law or the church, these two +sciences being cast into one, and a lawyer and a priest being the +same word in the Turkish language. They are the only men really +considerable in the empire; all the profitable employments and church +revenues are in their hands. The grand signior, though general heir +to his people, never presumes to touch their lands or money, which +go, in an uninterrupted succession, to their children. 'Tis true, +they lose this privilege, by accepting a place at court, or the title +of Bassa; but there are few examples of such fools among them. You +may easily judge of the power of these men, who have engrossed all +the learning, and almost all the wealth of the empire. 'Tis they +that are the real authors, though the soldiers are the actors of +revolutions. They deposed the late sultan Mustapha; and their power +is so well known, that 'tis the emperor's interest to flatter them. + +THIS is a long digression. I was going to tell you, that an intimate +daily conversation with the effendi Achmet-beg, gave me an +opportunity of knowing their religion and morals in a more particular +manner than perhaps any Christian ever did. I explained to him the +difference between the religion of England and Rome; and he Was +pleased to hear there were Christians that did not worship images, or +adore the Virgin Mary. The ridicule of transubstantiation appeared +very strong to him.--Upon comparing our creeds together, I am +convinced that if our friend Dr ---- had free liberty of preaching +here, it would be very easy to persuade the generality to +Christianity, whose notions are very little different from his. Mr +Whiston would make a very good apostle here. I don't doubt but his +zeal will be much fired, if you communicate this account to him; but +tell him, he must first have the gift of tongues, before he can +possibly be of any use.--Mahometism (sic) is divided into as many +sects as Christianity; and the first institution as much neglected +and obscured by interpretations. I cannot here forbear reflecting on +the natural inclination of mankind, to make mysteries and +novelties.--The Zeidi, Kudi, Jabari, &c. put me in mind of the +Catholics, Lutherans, and Calvinists, and are equally zealous against +one another. But the most prevailing opinion, if you search into the +secret of the effendis, is, plain deism. This is indeed kept from +the people, who are amused with a thousand different notions, +according to the different interest of their preachers.--There are +very few amongst them (Achmet-beg denied there were any) so absurd, +as to set up for wit, by declaring they believe no God at all. And +Sir Paul Rycaut is mistaken (as he commonly is) in calling the sect +_muterin_, (i. e. _the secret with us_) atheists, they being deists, +whose impiety consists in making a jest of their prophet. Achmet-beg +did not own to me that he was of this opinion; but made no scruple of +deviating from some part of Mahomet's law, by drinking wine with the +same freedom we did. When I asked him how he came to allow himself +that liberty? He made answer, that all the creatures of God are +good, and designed for the use of man; however, that the prohibition +of wine was a very wise maxim, and meant for the common people, being +the source of all disorders amongst them; but, that the prophet never +designed to confine those that knew how to use it with moderation; +nevertheless, he said, that scandal ought to be avoided, and that he +never drank it in public. This is the general way of thinking +amongst them, and very few forbear drinking wine that are able to +afford it. He assured me, that if I understood Arabic, I should be +very well pleased with reading the alcoran, which is so far from the +nonsense we charge it with, that it is the purest morality, delivered +in the very best language. I have since heard impartial Christians +speak of it in the same manner; and I don't doubt but that all our +translations are from copies got from the Greek priests, who would +not fail to falsify it with the extremity of malice. No body of men +ever were more ignorant, or more corrupt; yet they differ so little +from the Romish church, that, I confess, nothing gives me a greater +abhorrence of the cruelty of your clergy, than the barbarous +persecution of them, whenever they have been their masters, for no +other reason than their not acknowledging the pope. The dissenting +in that one article, has got them the titles of heretics and +schismatics; and, what is worse, the same treatment. I found at +Philippopolis, a sect of Christians that call themselves Paulines. +They shew an old church, where, they say, St Paul preached; and he is +their favourite saint, after the same manner that St Peter is at +Rome; neither do they forget to give him the same preference over the +rest of the apostles. + +BUT of all the religions I have seen, that of the Arnounts seems to +me the most particular; they are natives of Arnountlich, the ancient +Macedonia, and still retain the courage and hardiness, though they +have lost the name of Macedonians, being the best militia in the +Turkish empire, and the only check upon the janizaries. They are +foot soldiers; we had a guard of them, relieved in every considerable +town we passed; they are all cloathed and armed at their own expence, +dressed in clean white coarse cloth, carrying guns of a prodigious +length, which they run with upon their shoulders, as if they did not +feel the weight of them, the leader singing a sort of rude tune, not +unpleasant, and the rest making up the chorus. These people living +between Christians and Mahometans, and not being skilled in +controversy, declare, that they are utterly unable to judge which +religion is best; but, to be certain of not entirely rejecting the +truth, they very prudently follow both. They go to the mosques on +Fridays, and to the church on Sunday, saying, for their excuse, that +at the day of judgment they are sure of protection from the true +prophet; but which that is, they are not able to determine in this +world. I believe there is no other race of mankind, who have so +modest an opinion of their own capacity. + +THESE are the remarks I have made, on the diversity of religions I +have seen. I don't ask your pardon for the liberty I have taken in +speaking of the Roman. I know you equally condemn the quakery (sic) +of all churches, as much as you revere the sacred truths, in which we +both agree. + +YOU will expect I should say something to you of the antiquities of +this country; but there are few remains of ancient Greece. We passed +near the piece of an arch, which is commonly called Trajan's Gate, +from a supposition, that he made it to shut up the passage over the +mountains, between Sophia and Philippopolis. But I rather believe +it the remains of some triumphal arch, (tho' I could not see any +inscription;) for if that passage had been shut up, there are +many others that would serve for the march of an army; and, +notwithstanding the story of Baldwin earl of Flanders being +overthrown in these straits, after he won Constantinople, I don't +fancy the Germans would find themselves stopped by them at this day. +'Tis true, the road is now made (with great industry) as commodious +as possible, for the march of the Turkish army; there is not one +ditch or puddle between this place and Belgrade, that has not a large +strong bridge of planks built over it; but the precipices are not so +terrible as I had heard them represented. At these mountains we lay +at the little village Kiskoi, wholly inhabited by Christians, as all +the peasants of Bulgaria are. Their houses are nothing but little +huts, raised of dirt baked in the sun; and they leave them and fly +into the mountains, some months before the march of the Turkish army, +who would else entirely ruin them, by driving away their whole +flocks. This precaution Secures them in a sort of plenty; for such +vast tracts of land lying in common, they have the liberty of sowing +what they please, and are generally very industrious husbandmen. I +drank here several sorts of delicious wine. The women dress +themselves in a great variety of coloured glass beads, and are not +ugly, but of a tawny complexion. I have now told you all that is +worth telling you, and perhaps more, relating to my journey. When I +am at Constantinople, I'll try to pick up some curiosities, and then +you shall hear again from Your's, &c. + +LET. XXVIII + +To THE COUNTESS or B----. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717. + +AS I never can forget the smallest of your ladyship's commands, my +first business here has been to enquire after the stuffs you ordered +me to look for, without being able to find what you would like. The +difference of the dress here and at London is so great, the same sort +of things are not proper for _caftans_ and _manteaus_. However, I +will not give over my search, but renew it again at Constantinople, +though I have reason to believe there is nothing finer than what is +to be found here, as this place is at present the residence of the +court. The grand signior's eldest daughter was married some few days +before I came hither; and, upon that occasion, the Turkish ladies +display all their magnificence. The bride was conducted to her +husband's house in very great splendor (sic). She is widow of the +late vizier, who was killed at Peterwaradin, though that ought rather +to be called a contract than a marriage, since she never has lived +with him; however, the greatest part of his wealth is hers. He had +the permission of visiting her in the seraglio; and, being one of the +handsomest men in the empire, had very much engaged her +affections.--When she saw this second husband, who is at least fifty, +she could not forbear bursting into tears. He is indeed a man of +merit, and the declared favourite of the sultan, (which they call +_ mosayp_) but that is not enough to make him pleasing in the eyes of +a girl of thirteen. + +THE government here is entirely in the hands of the army, the grand +signior, with all his absolute power, is as much a slave as any of +his subjects, and trembles at a janizary's frown. Here is, indeed, a +much greater appearance of subjection than amongst us; a minister of +state is not spoke to, but upon the knee: should a reflection on his +conduct be dropt (sic) in a coffee-house (for they have spies every +where) the house would be raz'd (sic) to the ground, and perhaps the +whole company put to the torture. No _huzzaing mobs, senseless +pamphlets, and tavern disputes about politics_; + + A consequential ill that freedom draws; + A bad effect,--but from a noble cause. + +None of our harmless calling names! but when a minister here +displeases the people, in three hours time he is dragged even from +his master's arms. They cut off hands, head, and feet, and throw +them before the palace gate, with all the respect in the world; while +the sultan (to whom they all profess an unlimited adoration) sits +trembling in his apartment, and dare neither defend nor revenge his +favourite. This is the blessed condition of the most absolute +monarch upon earth, who o---- no l---- but his _will_. [Editor's +note: Two words are unreadable due to damage to the book which may +have occurred at the time of printing. It seems probable that the +sentence should end ".. who owns no limit but his _will_.".] + +I CANNOT help wishing, in the loyality (sic) of my heart, that the +parliament would send hither a ship-load of young passive obedient +men, that they might see arbitrary government in its clearest, and +strongest light, where 'tis hard to judge, whether the prince, +people, or ministers, are most miserable. I could make many +reflections on this subject; but I know, madam, your own good sense +has already furnished you with better than I am capable of. + +I WENT yesterday along with the French ambassadress to see the grand +signior in his passage to the mosque. He was preceded by a numerous +guard of janizaries, with vast white feathers on their heads, as also +by the _spahis_ and _bostangees_, (these are foot and horse guards) +and the royal gardeners, which are a very considerable body of men, +dressed in different habits of fine lively colours, so that at a +distance, they appeared like a parterre of tulips. After them the +aga of the janizaries, in a robe of purple velvet, lined with silver +tissue, his horse led by two slaves richly dressed. Next him the +_kyzlier-aga_ (your ladyship knows, this is the chief guardian of the +seraglio ladies) in a deep yellow cloth (which suited very well to +his black face) lined with sables. Last came his sublimity himself, +arrayed in green, lined with the fur of a black Moscovite fox, which +is supposed worth a thousand pounds sterling, and mounted on a fine +horse, with furniture embroidered with jewels. Six more horses +richly caparisoned were led after him; and two of his principal +courtiers bore, one his gold, and the other his silver coffee-pot, on +a staff; another carried a silver stool on his head for him to sit +on.---It would be too tedious to tell your ladyship the various +dresses and turbants (sic) by which their rank is distinguished; but +they were all extremely rich and gay, to the number of some +thousands; so that perhaps there cannot be seen a more beautiful +procession. The sultan appeared to us a handsome man of about forty, +with something, however, severe in his countenance, and his eyes +very ---- ---- ---- [Editor's note: as above a few words are +illegible but seem to be 'sultry and black'.] He happened to stop +under the window where he stood, and (I suppose being told who we +were) looked upon us very attentively, so that we had full leisure to +consider him. The French ambassadress agreed with me as to his good +mien; I see that lady very often; she is young, and her conversation +would be a great relief to me, if I could persuade her to live +without those forms and ceremonies that make life so formal and +tiresome. But she is so delighted with her guards, her four and +twenty footmen, gentlemen, ushers, &c. that she would rather die than +make me a visit without them; not to reckon a coachful of attending +damsels ycleap'd (sic) maids of honour. What vexes me is, that as +long as she will visit me with a troublesome equipage, I am obliged +to do the same: however, our mutual interest makes us much together. +I went with her the other day all round the town, in an open gilt +chariot, with our joint train of attendants, preceded by our guards, +who might have summoned the people to see what they had never seen, +nor ever perhaps would see again, two young Christian ambassadresses +at the same time. Your ladyship may easily imagine, we drew a vast +crowd of spectators, but all silent as death. If any of them had +taken the liberties of our mobs upon any strange sight, our +janizaries had made no scruple of falling on them with their +scimitars, without danger for so doing, being above law. These +people however (I mean the janizaries) have some good qualities; they +are very zealous and faithful where they serve, and look upon it as +their business to fight for you on all occasions. Of this I had a +very pleasant instance in a village on this side Philippopolis, where +we were met by our domestic guards. I happened to bespeak pigeons +for supper, upon which one of my janizaries went immediately to the +cadi (the chief civil officer of the town) and ordered him to send in +some dozens. The poor man answered, that he had already sent about, +but could get none. My janizary, in the height of his zeal for my +service, immediately locked him up prisoner in his room, telling him +he deserved death for his impudence, in offering to excuse his not +obeying my command; but, out of respect to me, he would not punish +him but by my order. Accordingly he came very gravely to me, to ask +what should be done to him; adding, by way of compliment, that if I +pleased he would bring me his head.--This may give you some idea of +the unlimited power of these fellows, who are all sworn brothers, and +bound to revenge the injuries done to one another, whether at Cairo, +Aleppo, or any part of the world. This inviolable league makes them +so powerful, that the greatest man at court never speaks to them but +in a flattering tone; and in Asia, any man that is rich is forced to +enrol himself a janizary, to secure his estate.--But I have already +said enough; and I dare swear, dear madam, that, by this time, 'tis a +very comfortable reflection to you, that there is no possibility of +your receiving such a tedious letter but once in six months; 'tis +that consideration has given me the assurance of entertaining you so +long, and will, I hope, plead the excuse of, dear madam, Your's, &c. + +LET. XXIX. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Adrianople, April_. 1. O. S. 1717. + +I WISH to God, dear sister, that you were as regular in letting me +know what passes on your side of the globe, as I am careful in +endeavouring to amuse you by the account of all I see here, that I +think worth your notice. You content yourself with telling me over +and over, that the town is very dull: it may, possibly, be dull to +you, when every day does not present you with something new; but for +me that am in arrears, at least two months news, all that seems very +stale with you, would be very fresh and sweet here. Pray let me into +more particulars, and I will try to awaken your gratitude, by giving +you a full and true relation of the novelties of this place, none of +which would surprise you more than a sight of my person, as I am now +in my Turkish habit, though I believe you would be of my opinion, +that 'tis admirably becoming.--I intend to send you my picture; in +the mean time accept of it here. + +THE first part of my dress is a pair of drawers, very full that reach +to my shoes, and conceal the legs more modestly than your petticoats. +They are of a thin rose-coloured damask, brocaded with silver +flowers. My shoes are of white kid leather, embroidered with gold. +Over this hangs my smock, of a fine white silk gauze, edged with +embroidery. This smock has wide sleeves hanging half way down the +arm, and is closed at the neck with a diamond button; but the shape +and colour of the bosom is very well to be distinguished through +it.--The _antery_ is a waistcoat, made close to the shape, of white +and gold damask, with very long sleeves falling back, and fringed +with deep gold fringe, and should have diamond or pearl buttons. My +_caftan_, of the same stuff with my drawers, is a robe exactly fitted +to my shape, and reaching to my feet, with very long strait falling +sleeves. Over this is my girdle, of about four fingers broad, which, +all that can afford it, have entirely of diamonds or other precious +stones; those who will not be at that expence, have it of exquisite +embroidery on sattin (sic); but it must be fastened before with a +clasp of diamonds.--The _curdee_ is a loose robe they throw off, or +put on, according to the weather, being of a rich brocade (mine is +green and gold) either lined with ermine or sables; the sleeves reach +very little below the shoulders. The head dress is composed of a +cap, called _talpock_, which is, in winter, of fine velvet +embroidered with pearls or diamonds, and in summer, of a light +shining silver stuff. This is fixed on one side of the head, hanging +a little way down with a gold tassel, and bound on, either with a +circle of diamonds (as I have seen several) or a rich embroidered +handkerchief. On the other side of the head, the hair is laid flat; +and here the ladies are at liberty to shew their fancies; some +putting flowers, others a plume of heron's feathers, and, in short, +what they please; but the most general fashion is a large _bouquet_ +of jewels, made like natural flowers; that is, the buds, of pearl; +the roses, of different coloured rubies: the jessamines, of diamonds; +the jonquils, of topazes, &c. so well set and enamelled, 'tis hard to +imagine any thing of that kind so beautiful. The hair hangs at its +full length behind, divided into tresses braided with pearl or +ribbon, which is always in great quantity. I never saw in my life so +many fine heads of hair. In one lady's, I have counted a hundred and +ten of the tresses, all natural; but it must be owned, that every +kind of beauty is more common here than with us. 'Tis surprising to +see a young woman that is not very handsome. They have naturally the +most beautiful complexion in the world, and generally large black +eyes. I can assure you with great truth, that the court of England +(though I believe it the fairest in Christendom) does not contain so +many beauties as are under our protection here. They generally shape +their eye-brows, and both Greeks and Turks have the custom of putting +round their eyes a black tincture, that, at a distance, or by +candle-light, adds very much to the blackness of them. I fancy many +of our ladies would be overjoyed to know this secret, but 'tis too +visible by day. They dye their nails a rose colour; but, I own, I +cannot enough accustom myself to this fashion, to find any beauty in +it. + +AS to their morality or good conduct, I can say, like Harlequin, that +'tis just as 'tis with you; and the Turkish ladies don't commit one +sin the less for not being Christians. Now, that I am a little +acquainted with their ways, I cannot forbear admiring, either the +exemplary discretion, or extreme stupidity of all the writers that +have given accounts of them. 'Tis very easy to see, they have in +reality more liberty than we have. No woman, of what rank soever, is +permitted to go into the streets without two _murlins_, one that +covers her face all but her eyes, and another, that hides the whole +dress of her head, and hangs half way down her back. Their shapes +are also wholely (sic) concealed, by a thing they call a _serigee_, +which no woman of any sort appears without; this has strait sleeves, +that reach to their fingers-ends, and it laps all round them, not +unlike a riding-hood. In winter, 'tis of cloth; and in summer, of +plain stuff or silk. You may guess then, how effectually this +disguises them, so that there is no distinguishing the great lady +from her slave. 'Tis impossible for the most jealous husband to know +his wife, when he meets her; and no man dare touch or follow a woman +in the street. + +THIS perpetual masquerade gives them entire liberty of following +their inclinations, without danger of discovery. The most usual +method of intrigue, is, to send an appointment to the lover to meet +the lady at a Jew's shop, which are as notoriously convenient as our +Indian-houses; and yet, even those who don't make use of them, do not +scruple to go to buy pennyworths, and tumble over rich goods, which +are chiefly to be found amongst that sort of people. The great +ladies seldom let their gallants know who they are; and 'tis so +difficult to find it out, that they can very seldom guess at her +name, whom they have corresponded with for above half a year +together. You may easily imagine the number of faithful wives very +small in a country where they have nothing to fear from a lover's +indiscretion, since we see so many have the courage to expose +themselves to that in this world, and all the threatened punishment +of the next, which is never preached to the Turkish damsels. Neither +have they much to apprehend from the resentment of their husbands; +those ladies that are rich, having all their money in their own +hands. Upon the whole, I look upon the Turkish women, as the only +free people in the empire; the very divan pays respect to them; and +the grand signior himself, when a bassa is executed, never violates +the privileges of the _haram_, (or womens apartment) which remains +unsearched and entire to the widow. They are queens of their slaves, +whom the husband has no permission so much as to look upon, except it +be an old woman or two that his lady chuses. 'Tis true, their law +permits them four wives; but there is no instance of a man of quality +that makes use of this liberty, or of a woman of rank that would +suffer it. When a husband happens to be inconstant, (as those things +will happen) he keeps his mistress in a house apart, and visits her +as privately as he can, just as it is with you. Amongst all the +great men here, I only know the _testerdar_, (i.e. a treasurer) that +keeps a number of she slaves, for his own use, (that is, on his own +side of the house; for a slave once given to serve a lady, is +entirely at her disposal) and he is spoke of as a libertine, or what +we should call a rake, and his wife won't see him, though she +continues to live in his house. Thus you see, dear sister, the +manners of mankind do not differ so Widely, as our voyage-writers +would make us believe. Perhaps, it would be more entertaining to add +a few surprising customs of my own invention; but nothing seems to me +so agreeable as truth, and I believe nothing so acceptable to you. I +conclude therefore with repeating the great truth of my being, + Dear sister, &c. + +LET. XXX. + +TO MR POPE. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717. + +I DARE say you expect, at least, something very new in this letter, +after I have gone a journey, not undertaken by any Christian for some +hundred years. The most remarkable accident that happened to me, was +my being very near overturned into the Hebrus; and, if I had much +regard for the glories that one's name enjoys after death, I should +certainly be sorry for having missed the romantic conclusion of +swimming down the same river in which the musical head of Orpheus +repeated verses so many ages since: + + "_Caput a cervice revulsum, + "Gurgite cum medio, portans Oeagrius Hebrus, + "Volveret, Eurydicen vox ipsa, et frigida lingua, + "Ah! miseram Eurydicen! anima fugiente vocabat, + "Eurydicen toto referebant flumine ripae_" + +Who knows but some of your bright wits might have found it a subject +affording many poetical turns, and have told the world, in an heroic +elegy, that, + + _As equal were our souls, so equal were our fates?_ + +I despair of ever hearing so many fine things said of me, as so +extraordinary a death would have given occasion for. + +I AM at this present moment writing in a house situated on the banks +of the Hebrus, which runs under my chamber window. My garden is full +of all cypress trees, upon the branches of which several couple of +true turtles are saying soft things to one another from morning till +night. How naturally do _boughs_ and _vows_ come into my mind, at +this minute? and must not you confess, to my praise, that 'tis more +than an ordinary discretion that can resist the wicked suggestions of +poetry, in a place where truth, for once, furnishes all the ideas of +pastoral. The summer is already far advanced in this part of the +world; and, for some miles round Adrianople, the whole ground is laid +out in gardens, and the banks of the rivers are set with rows of +fruit-trees, under which all the most considerable Turks divert +themselves every evening, not with walking, that is not one of their +pleasures; but a set party of them chuse out a green spot, where the +shade is very thick, and, there they spread a carpet, on which they +sit drinking their coffee, and are generally attended by some slave +with a fine voice, or that plays on some instrument. Every twenty +paces you may see one of these little companies listening to the +dashing of the river; and this taste is so universal, that the very +gardeners are not without it. I have often seen them and their +children sitting on the banks of the river, and playing on a rural +instrument, perfectly answering the description of the ancient +_fistula_, being composed of unequal reeds, with a simple, but +agreeable softness in the sound. + +MR ADDISON might here make the experiment he speaks of in his travels; +there not being one instrument Of music among the Greek or Roman +statues, that is not to be found in the hands of the people of this +country. The young lads generally divert themselves with making +garlands for their favourite lambs, which I have often seen painted +and adorned with flowers, lying at their feet, while they sung or +played. It is not that they ever read romances, but these are the +ancient amusements here, and as natural to them as cudgel-playing and +foot-ball to our British swains; the softness and warmth of the +climate forbidding all rough exercises, which were never so much as +heard of amongst them, and naturally inspiring a laziness and +aversion to labour, which the great plenty indulges. These gardeners +are the only happy race of country people in Turkey. They furnish +all the city with fruits and herbs, and seem to live very easily. +They are most of them Greeks, and have little houses in the midst of +their gardens, where their wives and daughters take a liberty, not +permitted in the town, I mean, to go unveiled. These wenches are +very neat and handsome, and pass their time at their looms, under the +shade of the trees. + +I No longer look upon Theocritus as a romantic writer; he has only +given a plain image of the way of life amongst the peasants of his +country; who, before oppression had reduced them to want, were, I +suppose, all employed as the better sort of them are now. I don't +doubt, had he been born a Briton, but his _Idyliums_ had been filled +with descriptions of threshing and churning, both which are unknown +here, the corn being all trode (sic) out by oxen; and butter (I speak +it with sorrow) unheard of. + +I READ over your Homer here, with an infinite pleasure, and find +several little passages explained, that I did not before entirely +comprehend the beauty of; many of the customs, and much Of the dress +then in fashion, being yet retained. I don't wonder to find more +remains here, of an age so distant, than is to be found in any other +country, the Turks not taking that pains to introduce their own +manners, as has been generally practised by other nations, that +imagine themselves more polite. It would be too tedious to you, to +point out all the passages that relate to present customs. But, I +can assure you, that the princesses and great ladies pass their time +at their looms, embroidering veils and robes, surrounded by their +maids, which are always very numerous, in the same manner as we find +Andromache and Helen described. The description of the belt of +Menelaus, exactly resembles those that are now worn by the great men, +fastened before with broad golden clasps, and embroidered round with +rich work. The snowy veil that Helen throws over her face, is still +fashionable; and I never see half a dozen of old bashaws (as I do +very often) with their reverend beards, sitting basking in the sun, +but I recollect good king Priam and his counsellors. Their manner of +dancing is certainly the same that Diana is _sung_ (sic) to have +danced on the banks of Eurotas. The great lady still leads the +dance, and is followed by a troop of young girls, who imitate her +steps, and, if she sings, make up the chorus. The tunes are +extremely gay and lively, yet with something in them wonderfully +soft. The steps are varied according to the pleasure of her that +leads the dance, but always in exact time, and infinitely more +agreeable than any of our dances, at least in my opinion. I +sometimes make one in the train, but am not skilful enough to lead; +these are the Grecian dances, the Turkish being very different. + +I SHOULD have told you, in the first place, that the Eastern manners +give a great light into many scripture-passages, that appear +odd to us, their phrases being commonly what we should call +scripture-language. The vulgar Turk is very different from what is +spoke at court, or amongst the people of figure; who always mix so +much Arabic and Persian in their discourse, that it may very well be +called another language. And 'tis as ridiculous to make use of the +expressions commonly used, in speaking to a great man or lady, as it +would be to speak broad Yorkshire, or Somersetshire, in the drawing +room. Besides this distinction, they have what they call the +_sublime_, that is, a style proper for poetry, and which is the exact +scripture style. I believe you will be pleased to see a genuine +example of this; and I am very glad I have it in my power to satisfy +your curiosity, by sending you a faithful copy of the verses that +Ibrahim Bassa, the reigning favourite, has made for the young +princess, his contracted wife, whom he is not yet permitted to visit +without witnesses, though she is gone home to his house. He is a man +of wit and learning; and whether or no he is capable of writing good +verse, you may be sure, that, on such an occasion, he would not want +the assistance of the best poets in the empire. Thus the verses may +be looked upon as a sample of their finest poetry; and I don't doubt +you'll be of my mind, that it is most wonderfully resembling _The +song of Solomon_, which was also addressed to a royal bride. + + +TURKISH VERSES addressed to the _Sultana_, eldest daughter of SULTAN +ACHMET III. + + +STANZA I. + +Ver. + +1. _THE nightingale now wanders in the vines: + Her passion is to seek roses._ + +2. _I went down to admire the beauty of the vines: + The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._ + +3. _Your eyes are black and lovely, + But wild and disdainful as those of a stag._ + +STANZA II. + +1. _The wished possession is delayed from day to day; + The cruel Sultan ACHMET will not permit me + To see those cheeks, more vermilion than roses._ + +2. _I dare not snatch one of your kisses; + The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._ + +3. _Your eyes are black and lovely, + But wild and disdainful as those of a stag._ + +STANZA III + +1. _The wretched_ IBRAHIM _sighs in these verses: + One dart from your eyes has pierc'd thro' my heart._ + +2. _Ah! when will the hour of possession arrive? + Must I yet wait a long time? + The sweetness of your charms has ravished my soul._ + +3. _Ah!_ SULTANA! _stag-ey'd--an angel amongst angels! + I desire,--and, my desire remains unsatisfied.--Can + you take delight to prey upon my heart?_ + +STANZA IV + +1. _My cries pierce the heavens! + My eyes are without sleep! + Turn to me,_ SULTANA--_let me gaze on thy beauty._ + +2. _Adieu--I go down to the grave. + If you call me--I return. + My heart is--hot as sulphur;--sigh, and it will flame._ + +3. _Crown of my life! fair light of my eyes! + My_ SULTANA! _my princess! + I rub my face against the earth; I am drown'd in scalding tears-- + I rave! + Have you no compassion? Will you not turn to look upon me?_ + +I have taken abundance of pains to get these verses in a literal +translation; and if you were acquainted with my interpreters, I might +spare myself the trouble of assuring you, that they have received no +poetical touches from their hands. In my opinion (allowing for the +inevitable faults of a prose translation into a language so very +different) there is a good deal of beauty in them. The epithet of +_stag-ey'd_ (though the sound is not very agreeable in English) +pleases me extremely; and I think it a very lively image of the fire +and indifference in his mistress's eyes.--Monsieur Boileau has very +justly observed, that we are never to judge of the elevation of an +expression in an ancient author, by the sound it carries with us; +since it may be extremely fine with them, when, at the same time, it +appears low or uncouth to us. You are so well acquainted with Homer, +you cannot but have observed the same thing, and you must have the +same indulgence for all Oriental poetry. The repetitions at the end +of the two first stanzas are meant for a sort of chorus, and are +agreeable to the ancient manner of writing. The music of the verses +apparently changes in the third stanza, where the burden is altered; +and I think he very artfully, seems more passionate at the +conclusion, as 'tis natural for people to warm themselves by their +own discourse, especially on a subject in which one is deeply +concerned; 'tis certainly far more touching than our modern custom of +concluding a song of passion with a turn which is inconsistent with +it. The first verse is a description of the season of the year; all +the country now being full of nightingales, whole amours with roses, +is an Arabian fable, as well known here as any part of Ovid amongst +us, and is much the same as if an English poem should begin, by +saying,--"_Now Philomela sings_." Or what if I turned the whole into +the style of English poetry, to see how it would look? + +STANZA I. + + "NOW Philomel renews her tender strain, + "Indulging all the night her pleasing pain; + + "I sought in groves to hear the wanton sing, + "There saw a face more beauteous than the spring. + + "Your large stag-eyes, where thousand glories play, + "As bright, as lively, but as wild as they. + +STANZA II. + + "In vain I'm promis'd such a heav'nly prize, + "Ah! cruel SULTAN! who delay'st my joys! + "While piercing charms transfix my am'rous heart, + "I dare not snatch one kiss to ease the smart. + + "Those eyes! like, &c. + +STANZA III. + + "Your wretched lover in these lines complains; + "From those dear beauties rise his killing pains. + + "When will the hour of wish'd-for bliss arrive? + "Must I wait longer?--Can I wait and live? + + "Ah! bright Sultana! maid divinely fair! + "Can you, unpitying, see the pains I bear? + +STANZA IV. + + "The heavens relenting, hear my piercing cries, + "I loathe the light, and sleep forsakes my eyes; + "Turn thee, Sultana, ere thy lover dies: + + "Sinking to earth, I fight the last adieu, + "Call me, my goddess, and my life renew. + + "My queen! my angel! my fond heart's desire! + "I rave--my bosom burns with heav'nly fire! + "Pity that passion, which thy charms inspire." + +I have taken the liberty, in the second verse, of following what I +suppose the true sense of the author, though not literally expressed. +By his saying, _He went down to admire the beauty of the vines, and +her charms ravished his soul_, I understand a poetical fiction, of +having first seen her in a garden, where he was admiring the beauty +of the spring. But I could not forbear retaining the comparison of +her eyes with those of a stag, though perhaps the novelty of it may +give it a burlesque sound in our language. I cannot determine upon +the whole, how well I have succeeded in the translation, neither do I +think our English proper to express such violence of passion, which +is very seldom felt amongst us. We want also those compound words +which are very frequent and strong in the Turkish language. + +YOU see I am pretty far gone in Oriental learning; and, to say truth, +I study very hard. I wish my studies may give me an occasion of +entertaining your curiosity, which will be the utmost advantage hoped +for from them, by, Your's, &c. + +LET. XXXI. + +TO MRS S. C. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. + +IN my opinion, dear S. I ought rather to quarrel with you, for not +answering my Nimeguen letter of August, till December, than to excuse +my not writing again till now. I am sure there is on my side a very +good excuse for silence, having gone such tiresome land-journies +(sic), though I don't find the conclusion of them so bad as you seem +to imagine. I am very easy here, and not in the solitude you fancy +me. The great number of Greeks, French, English, and Italians that +are under our protection, make their court to me from morning till +night; and, I'll assure you, are, many of them, very fine ladies; for +there is no possibility for a Christian to live easily under this +government, but by the protection of an ambassador--and the richer +they are, the greater is their danger. + +THOSE dreadful stories you have heard of the _plague_, have very +little foundation in truth. I own, I have much ado to reconcile +myself to the sound of a word, which has always given me such +terrible ideas; though I am convinced there is little more in it, +than in a fever. As a proof of this, let me tell you that we passed +through two or three towns most violently infected. In the very next +house where we lay, (in one of those places) two persons died of it. +Luckily for me I was so well deceived, that I knew nothing of the +matter; and I was made believe, that our second cook had only a great +cold. However, we left our doctor to take care of him, and yesterday +they both arrived here in good health; and I am now let into the +secret, that he has had the _plague_. There are many that escape it, +neither is the air ever infected. I am persuaded, that it would be +as easy a matter to root it out here, as out of Italy and France; but +it does so little mischief, they are not very solicitous about it, +and are content to suffer this distemper, instead of our variety, +which they are utterly unacquainted with. + +_A propos_ of distempers, I am going to tell you a thing that will +make you wish yourself here. The small-pox, so fatal, and so general +amongst us, is here entirely harmless, by the invention of +_ingrafting_, which is the term they give it. There is a set of old +women, who make it their business to perform the operation, every +autumn, in the month of September, when the great heat is abated. +People send to one another to know if any of their family has a mind +to have the small-pox: they make parties for this purpose, and when +they are met (commonly fifteen or sixteen together) the old woman +comes with a nutshell full of the matter of the best sort of +small-pox, and asks what vein you please to have opened. She +immediately rips open that you offer to her, with a large needle, +(which gives you no more pain than a common scratch) and puts into +the vein as much matter as can ly upon the head of her needle, and +after that, binds up the little wound with a hollow bit of shell; and +in this manner opens four or five veins. The Grecians have commonly +the superstition of opening one in the middle of the forehead, one in +each arm, and one on the breast, to mark the sign of the cross; but +this has a very ill effect, all these wounds leaving little scars, +and is not done by those that are not superstitious, who chuse to +have them in the legs, or that part of the arm that is concealed. +The children or young patients play together all the rest of the day, +and are in perfect health to the eighth. Then the fever begins to +seize them, and they keep their beds two days, very seldom three. +They have very rarely above twenty or thirty in their faces, which +never mark; and in eight days time they are as well as before their +illness. Where they are wounded, there remain running sores during +the distemper, which I don't doubt is a great relief to it. Every +year thousands undergo this operation; and the French ambassador says +pleasantly, that they take the small-pox here by way of diversion, as +they take the waters in other countries. There is no example of any +one that has died in it; and you may believe I am well satisfied of +the safety of this experiment, since I intend to try it on my dear +little son. I am patriot enough to take pains to bring this useful +invention into fashion in England; and I should not fail to write to +some of our doctors very particularly about it, if I knew any one of +them that I thought had virtue enough to destroy such a considerable +branch of their revenue, for the good of mankind. But that distemper +is too beneficial to them, not to expose to all their resentment the +hardy wight (sic) that should undertake to put an end to it. +Perhaps, if I live to return, I may, however, have courage to war +with them. Upon this occasion, admire the heroism in the heart of + Your friend, &c. &c. + +LET. XXXII. + +TO MRS T----. + +_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1718 (sic). + +I CAN now tell dear Mrs T----, that I am safely arrived at the end of +my very long journey. I will not tire you with the account of the +many fatigues I have suffered. You would rather be informed of the +strange things that are to be seen here; and a letter out of Turkey, +that has nothing extraordinary in it, would be as great a +disappointment, as my visitors will receive at London, if I return +thither without any rarities to shew them.--What shall I tell you +of?--You never saw camels in your life; and perhaps the description +of them will appear new to you; I can assure you the first sight of +them was so to me; and though I have seen hundreds of pictures of +those animals, I never saw any that was resembling enough, to give a +true idea of them. I am going to make a bold observation, and +possibly a false one, because nobody has ever made it before me; but +I do take them to be of the stag kind; their legs, bodies, and necks, +are exactly shaped like them, and their colour very near the same. +'Tis true they are much larger, being a great deal higher than a +horse; and so swift, that, after the defeat of Peterwaradin, they far +outran the swiftest horses, and brought the first news of the loss of +the battle to Belgrade. They are never thoroughly tamed; the drivers +take care to tie them one to another, with strong ropes, fifty in a +string, led by an ass, on which the driver rides. I have seen three +hundred in one caravan. They carry the third part more than any +horse; but 'tis a particular art to load them, because of the bunch +on their backs. They seem to be very ugly creatures, their heads +being ill-formed and disproportioned (sic) to their bodies. They +carry all the burdens; and the beasts destined to the plough, are +buffaloes, an animal you are also unacquainted with. They are larger +and more clumsy than an ox; they have short thick black horns close +to their heads, Which grow turning backwards. They say this horn +looks very beautiful when 'tis well polished. They are all black, +with very short hair on their hides, and have extremely little white +eyes, that make them look like devils. The country people dye their +tails, and the hair of their forehead, red, by way of ornament. +Horses are not put here to any laborious work, nor are they at all +fit for it. They are beautiful and full of spirit, but generally +little, and not strong, as the breed of colder countries; very +gentle, however, with all their vivacity, and also swift and +surefooted. I have a little white favourite, that I would not part +with on any terms; he prances under me with so much fire, you would +think that I had a great deal of courage to dare to mount him; yet +I'll assure you, I never rid a horse so much at my command in my +life. My side-saddle is the first that was ever seen in this part of +the world, and is gazed at with as much wonder as the ship of +Columbus in the first discovery of America. Here are some little +birds, held in a sort of religious reverence, and, for that reason, +multiply prodigiously: turtles, on the account of their innocence; +and storks, because they are supposed to make every winter the +pilgrimage to Mecca. To say truth, they are the happiest subjects +under the Turkish government, and are so sensible of their +privileges, that they walk the streets without fear, and generally +build in the low parts of houses. Happy are those whose houses are +so distinguished, as the vulgar Turks are perfectly persuaded that +they will not be, that year, attacked either by fire or pestilence. +I have the happiness of one of their sacred nests under my +chamber-window. + +NOW I am talking of my chamber, I remember the description of the +houses here will be as new to you, as any of the birds or beasts. I +suppose you have read, in most of our accounts of Turkey, that their +houses are the most miserable pieces of building in the world. I can +speak very learnedly on that subject, having been in so many of them; +and, I assure you, 'tis no such thing. We are now lodged in a palace +belonging to the grand signior. I really think the manner of +building here very agreeable, and proper for the country. 'Tis true, +they are not at all solicitous to beautify the outsides of their +houses, and they are generally built of wood; which, I own, is the +cause of many inconveniencies; but this is not to be charged on the +ill taste of the people, but on the oppression of the government. +Every house, at the death of its master, is at the grand signior's +disposal; and therefore, no man cares to make a great expence, which +he is not sure his family will be the better for. All their design +is to build a house commodious, and that will last their lives; and +they are very indifferent if it falls down the year after. Every +house, great and small, is divided into two distinct parts, which +only join together by a narrow passage. The first house has a large +court before it, and open galleries all round it, which is to me a +thing very agreeable. This gallery leads to all the chambers, which +are commonly large, and with two rows of windows, the first being of +painted glass; they seldom build above two stories, each of which has +galleries. The stairs are broad, and not often above thirty steps. +This is the house belonging to the lord, and the adjoining one is +called the _haram_, that is, the ladies apartment, (for the name of +_seraglio_ is peculiar to the grand signior;) it has also a gallery +running round it towards the garden, to which all the windows are +turned, and the same number of chambers as the other, but more gay +and splendid, both in painting and furniture. The second row of +windows is very low, with grates like those of convents; the rooms +are all spread with Persian carpets, and raised at one end of them +(my chambers are raised at both ends) about two feet. This is the +sofa, which is laid with a richer sort of carpet, and all round it a +sort of couch, raised half a foot, covered with rich silk, according +to the fancy or magnificence of the owner. Mine is of scarlet cloth, +with a gold fringe; round about this are placed, standing against the +wall, two rows of cushions, the first very large, and the next, +little ones; and here the Turks display their greatest magnificence. +They are generally brocade, or embroidery of gold wire upon white +sattin.--Nothing can look more gay and splendid. These seats are +also so convenient and easy, that I believe I shall never endure +chairs as long as I live.--The rooms are low, which I think no fault, +and the ceiling is always of wood, generally inlaid or painted with +flowers. They open in many places, with folding doors, and serve for +cabinets, I think, more conveniently than ours. Between the windows +are little arches to set pots of perfume, or baskets of flowers. But +what pleases me best, is the fashion of having marble fountains in +the lower part of the room, which throw up several spouts of water, +giving, at the same time, an agreeable coolness, and a pleasant +dashing sound, falling from one basin to another. Some of these are +very magnificent. Each house has a bagnio, which consists generally +in two or three little rooms, leaded on the top, paved with marble, +with basins, cocks of water, and all conveniencies for either hot or +cold baths. + +YOU will perhaps be surprised at an account so different from what +you have been entertained with by the common voyage-writers, who are +very fond of speaking of what they don't know. It must be under a +very particular character, or on some extraordinary occasion, that a +Christian is admitted into the house of a man of quality; and their +_harams_ are always forbidden ground. Thus they can only speak of +the outside, which makes no great appearance; and the womens +apartments are always built backward, removed from sight, and have no +other prospect than the gardens, which are inclosed with very high +walls. There are none of our parterres in them; but they are planted +with high trees, which give an agreeable shade, and, to my fancy, a +pleasing view. In the midst of the garden is the _chiosk_, that is, +a large room, commonly beautified with a fine fountain in the midst +of it. It is raised nine or ten steps, and inclosed with gilded +lattices, round which, vines, jessamines, and honey-suckles, make a +sort of green wall. Large trees are planted round this place, which +is the scene of their greatest pleasures, and where the ladies spend +most of their hours, employed by their music or embroidery.--In the +public gardens, there are public _chiosks_ where people go, that are +not so well accommodated at home, and drink their coffee, sherbet, +&c.--Neither are they ignorant of a more durable manner of building: +their mosques are all of free-stone, and the public _hanns_, or inns, +extremely magnificent, many of them taking up a large square, built +round with shops under stone arches, where poor artificers are lodged +_gratis_. They have always a mosque joining to them, and the body of +the _hann_ is a most noble hall, capable of holding three or four +hundred persons, the court extremely spacious, and cloisters round +it, that give it the air of our colleges. I own, I think it a more +reasonable piece of charity than the founding of convents.--I think +I have now told you a great deal for once. If you don't like my +choice of subjects, tell me what you would have me write Upon; there +is nobody more desirous to entertain you, than, dear Mrs T----, + Your's, &c. &c. + +LET. XXXIII. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Adrianopolis, April_ 18. O. S. + +I WROTE to you, dear sister, and to all my other English +correspondents, by the last ship, and only Heaven can tell, when I +shall have another opportunity of sending to you; but I cannot +forbear to write again, though perhaps my letter may ly upon my hands +this two months. To confess the truth, my head is so full of my +entertainment yesterday, that 'tis absolutely necessary, for my own +repose, to give it some vent. Without farther preface, I will then +begin my story. + +I WAS invited to dine with the grand vizier's lady, and it was with a +great deal of pleasure I prepared myself for an entertainment, which +was never before given to any Christian. I thought I should very +little satisfy her curiosity, (which I did not doubt was a +considerable motive to the invitation) by going in a dress she was +used to see, and therefore dressed myself in the court habit of +Vienna, which is much more magnificent than ours. However, I chose +to go _incognito_, to avoid any disputes about ceremony, and went in +a Turkish coach, only attended by my woman, that held up my train, +and the Greek lady, who was my interpretess. I was met at the court +door by her black eunuch, who helped me out of the coach with great +respect, and conducted me through several rooms, where her +she-slaves, finely dressed, were ranged on each side. In the +innermost, I found the lady sitting on her sofa, in a sable vest. +She advanced to meet me, and presented me half a dozen of her +friends, with great civility. She seemed a very good woman, near +fifty years old. I was surprised to observe so little magnificence +in her house, the furniture being all very moderate; and, except the +habits and number of her slaves, nothing about her appeared +expensive. She guessed at my thoughts, and told me she was no longer +of an age to spend either her time or money in superfluities; that +her whole expence was in charity, and her whole employment praying to +God. There was no affectation in this speech; both she and her +husband are entirely given up to devotion. He never looks upon any +other woman; and, what is much more extraordinary, touches +no bribes, notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors. He +is so scrupulous on this point, he would not accept Mr W----'s +present, till he had been assured over and over, that it was a +settled perquisite Of his place, at the entrance of every ambassador. +She entertained me with all kind of civility, till dinner came in, +which was served, one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely +dressed after their manner, which I don't think so bad as you have +perhaps heard it represented. I am a very good judge of their +eating, having lived three weeks in the house of an _effendi_ at +Belgrade, who gave us very magnificent dinners, dressed by his own +cooks. The first week they pleased me extremely; but, I own, I then +began to grow weary of their table, and desired our own cook might +add a dish or two after our manner. But I attribute this to custom, +and am very much inclined to believe, that an Indian, who had never +tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours. Their sauces +are very high, all the roast very much done. They use a great deal +of very rich spice. The soup is served for the last dish; and they +have, at least, as great a variety of ragouts as we have. I was very +sorry I could not eat of as many as the good lady would have had me, +who was very earnest in serving me of every thing. The treat +concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is a high mark of respect; +two slaves kneeling _censed_ my hair, clothes, and handkerchief. +After this ceremony, she commanded her slaves to play and dance, +which they did with their guitars in their hands, and she excused to +me their want of skill, saying she took no care to accomplish them in +that art. + +I RETURNED her thanks, and, soon after, took my leave. I was +conducted back in the same manner I entered, and would have gone +straight to my own house; but the Greek lady with me, earnestly +solicited me to visit the _kahya's_ lady, saying, he was the second +officer in the empire, and ought indeed to be looked upon as the +first, the grand vizier having only the name, while he exercised the +authority. I had found so little diversion in the vizier's _haram_, +that I had no mind to go into another. But her importunity prevailed +with me, and I am extremely glad I was so complaisant. All things +here were with quite another air than at the grand vizier's; and the +very house confessed the difference between an old devotee, and a +young beauty. It was nicely clean and magnificent. I was met at the +door by two black eunuchs, who led me through a long gallery, between +two ranks of beautiful young girls, with their hair finely plaited, +almost hanging to their feet, all dressed in fine light damasks, +brocaded with silver. I was sorry that decency did not permit me to +stop to consider them nearer. But that thought was lost upon my +entrance into a large room, or rather pavilion, built round with +gilded sashes, which were most of them thrown up, and the trees +planted near them gave an agreeable shade, which hindered the sun +from being troublesome. The jessamines and honey-suckles that +twisted round their trunks, shed a soft perfume, increased by a white +marble fountain playing sweet water in the lower part of the room, +which fell into three or four basins, with a pleasing sound. The +roof was painted with all sorts of flowers, falling out of gilded +baskets, that seemed tumbling down. On a sofa, raised three steps, +and covered with fine Persian carpets, sat the _kahya_'s lady, +leaning on cushions of white sattin, embroidered; and at her feet sat +two young girls about twelve years old, lovely as angels, dressed +perfectly rich, and almost covered with jewels. But they were hardly +seen near the fair _Fatima_, (for that is her name) so much her +beauty effaced every thing I have seen, nay, all that has been called +lovely either in England or Germany. I must own, that I never saw +any thing so gloriously beautiful, nor can I recollect a face that +would have been taken notice of near hers. She stood up to receive +me, saluting me after their fashion, putting her hand to her heart +with a sweetness full of majesty, that no court breeding could ever +give. She ordered cushions to be given me, and took care to place me +in the corner, which is the place of honour. I confess, though the +Greek lady had before given me a great opinion of her beauty, I was +so struck with admiration, that I could not, for some time, speak to +her, being wholly taken up in gazing. That surprising harmony of +features! that charming result of the whole! that exact proportion of +body! that lovely bloom of complexion unsullied by art! the +unutterable enchantment of her smile!--But her eyes!--large and +black, with all the soft languishment of the blue! every turn of her +face discovering some new grace. + +AFTER my first surprise was over, I endeavoured, by nicely examining +her face, to find out some imperfection, without any fruit of my +search, but my being clearly convinced of the error of that vulgar +notion, that a face exactly proportioned, and perfectly beautiful, +would not be agreeable; nature having done for her, with more +success, what Appelles is said to have essayed, by a collection of +the most exact features, to form a perfect face. Add to all this, a +behaviour so full of grace and sweetness, such easy motions, with an +air so majestic, yet free from stiffness or affectation, that I am +persuaded, could she be suddenly transported upon the most polite +throne of Europe, no body would think her other than born and bred to +be a queen, though educated in a country we call barbarous. To say +all in a word, our most celebrated English beauties would vanish near +her. + +SHE was dressed in a _caftan_ of gold brocade, flowered with silver, +very well fitted to her shape, and shewing to admiration the beauty +of her bosom, only shaded by the thin gauze of her shift. Her +drawers were pale pink, her waistcoat green and silver, her slippers +white sattin, finely embroidered: her lovely arms adorned with +bracelets of diamonds, and her broad girdle set round with diamonds; +upon her head a rich Turkish handkerchief of pink and silver, her own +fine black hair hanging a great length, in various tresses, and on +one side of her head some bodkins of jewels. I am afraid you will +accuse me of extravagance in this description. I think I have read +somewhere, that women always speak in rapture when they speak of +beauty, and I cannot imagine why they should not be allowed to do so. +I rather think it a virtue to be able to admire without any mixture +of desire or envy. The gravest writers have spoken with great +warmth, of some celebrated pictures and statues. The workmanship of +Heaven, certainly excels all our weak imitations, and, I think, has a +much better claim to our praise. For my part, I am not ashamed to +own, I took more pleasure in looking on the beauteous Fatima, than +the finest piece of sculpture could have given me. She told me, the +two girls at her feet were her daughters, though she appeared too +young to be their mother. Her fair maids were ranged below the sofa, +to the number of twenty, and put me in mind of the pictures of the +ancient nymphs. I did not think all nature could have furnished such +a scene of beauty. She made them a sign to play and dance. Four of +them immediately began to play some soft airs on instruments, between +a lute and a guitar, which they accompanied with their voices, while +the others danced by turns. This dance was very different from what +I had seen before. Nothing could be more artful, or more proper to +raise _certain ideas_. The tunes so soft!--the motions so +languishing!--accompanied with pauses and dying eyes! half-falling +back, and then recovering themselves in so artful a manner, that I am +very positive, the coldest and most rigid pride upon earth, could not +have looked upon them without thinking of _something not to be spoke +of_.--I suppose you may have read that the Turks have no music, but +what is shocking to the ears; but this account is from those who +never heard any but what is played in the streets, and is just as +reasonable, as if a foreigner should take his ideas of English music, +from the _bladder_ and _string_, or the _marrow-bones_ and _cleavers_. +I can assure you that the music is extremely pathetic; 'tis true, I +am inclined to prefer the Italian, but perhaps I am partial. I am +acquainted with a Greek lady who sings better than Mrs Robinson, and +is very well skilled in both, who gives the preference to the +Turkish. 'Tis certain they have very fine natural voices; these were +very agreeable. When the dance was over, four fair slaves came into +the room, with silver censers in their hands, and perfumed the air +with amber, aloes-wood, and other scents. After this, they served me +coffee upon their knees, in the finest japan china, with _soucoups_ +of silver, gilt. The lovely Fatima entertained me, all this while, +in the most polite agreeable manner, calling me often _uzelle +sultanam_, or the beautiful sultana; and desiring my friendship with +the best grace in the world, lamenting that she could not entertain +me in my own language. + +WHEN I took my leave, two maids brought in a fine silver basket of +embroidered handkerchiefs; she begged I would wear the richest for +her sake, and gave the others to my woman and interpretess.--I +retired through the same ceremonies as before, and could not help +thinking, I had been some time in Mahomet's paradise; so much was I +charmed with what I had seen. I know not how the relation of it +appears to you. I wish it may give you part of my pleasure; for I +would have my dear sister share in all the diversions of, Yours,&c. + +LET. XXXIV. + +TO THE ABBOT OF ----. + +_Adrianople, May_ 17. O. S. + +I AM going to leave Adrianople, and I would not do it without giving +you some account of all that is curious in it, which I have taken a +great deal of pains to see. I will not trouble you with wise +dissertations, whether or no this is the same city that was anciently +called Orestesit or Oreste, which you know better than I do. It is +now called from the emperor Adrian, and was the first European seat +of the Turkish empire, and has been the favourite residence of many +sultans. Mahomet the fourth, and Mustapha, the brother of the +reigning emperor, were so fond of it, that they wholly abandoned +Constantinople; which humour so far exasperated the janizaries, that +it was a considerable motive to the rebellions that deposed them. +Yet this man seems to love to keep his court here. I can give you no +reason for this partiality. 'Tis true, the situation is fine, and +the country all round very beautiful; but the air is extremely bad, +and the seraglio itself is not free from the ill effect of it. The +town is said to be eight miles in compass, I suppose they reckon in +the gardens. There are some good houses in it, I mean large ones; +for the architecture of their palaces never makes any great shew. It +is now very full of people; but they are most of them such as follow +the court, or camp; and when they are removed, I am told, 'tis no +populous city. The river Maritza (anciently the Hebrus) on which it +is situated, is dried up every summer, which contributes very much to +make it unwholesome. It is now a very pleasant stream. There are +two noble bridges built over it. I had the curiosity to go to see +the exchange in my Turkish dress, which is disguise sufficient. Yet +I own, I was not very easy when I saw it crowded with janizaries; but +they dare not be rude to a woman, and made way for me with as much +respect as if I had been in my own figure. It is half a mile in +length, the roof arched, and kept extremely neat. It holds three +hundred and sixty-five shops, furnished with all sorts of rich goods, +exposed to sale in the same manner as at the new exchange in London. +But the pavement is kept much neater; and the shops are all so clean, +they seem just new painted.--Idle people of all sorts walk here for +their diversion, or amuse themselves with drinking coffee, or +sherbet, which is cried about as oranges and sweet-meats are in our +play-houses. I observed most of the rich tradesmen were Jews. That +people are in incredible power in this country. They have many +privileges above all the natural Turks themselves, and have formed a +very considerable commonwealth here, being judged by their own laws. +They have drawn the whole trade of the empire into their hands, +partly by the firm union amongst themselves, and partly by the idle +temper and want of industry in the Turks. Every bassa has his Jew, +who is his _homme d'affaires_; he is let into all his secrets, and +does all his business. No bargain is made, no bribe received, no +merchandise disposed of, but what passes through their hands. They +are the physicians, the stewards, and the interpreters of all the +great men. You may judge how advantageous this is to a people who +never fail to make use of the smallest advantages. They have found +the secret of making themselves so necessary, that they are certain +of the protection of the court, whatever ministry is in power. Even +the English, French, and Italian merchants, who are sensible of their +artifices, are, however, forced to trust their affairs to their +negotiation, nothing of trade being managed without them, and the +meanest amongst them being too important to be disobliged, since the +whole body take care of his interests, with as much vigour as they +would those of the most considerable of their members. They are many +of them vastly rich, but take care to make little public shew of it, +though they live in their houses in the utmost luxury and +magnificence. This copious subject has drawn me from my description +of the exchange, founded by Ali Bassa, whose name it bears. Near it +is the _sherski_, a street of a mile in length, full of shops of all +kind of fine merchandise, but excessive dear, nothing being made +here. It is covered on the top with boards, to keep out the rain, +that merchants may meet conveniently in all weathers. The _besiten_ +near it, is another exchange, built upon pillars, where all sorts of +horse-furniture is sold: glittering every where with gold, rich +embroidery, and jewels, it makes a very agreeable shew. From this +place I went, in my Turkish coach, to the camp, which is to move in a +few days to the frontiers. The sultan is already gone to his tents, +and all his court; the appearance of them is, indeed, very +magnificent. Those of the great men are rather like palaces than +tents, taking up a great compass of ground, and being divided into a +vast number of apartments. They are all of green, and the _bassas of +three tails_, have those ensigns of their power placed in very +conspicuous manner before their tents, which are adorned on the top +with gilded balls, more or less, according to their different ranks. +The ladies go in coaches to see the camp, as eagerly, as ours did to +that of Hyde-park; but 'tis very easy to observe, that the soldiers +do not begin the campaign with any great cheerfulness. The war is a +general grievance upon the people, but particularly hard upon the +tradesmen, now that the grand signior is resolved to lead his army in +person. Every company of them is obliged, upon this occasion, to +make a present according to their ability. + +I TOOK the pains of rising at six in the morning to see the ceremony +which did not, however, begin till eight. The grand signior was at +the seraglio window, to see the procession, which passed through the +principal streets. It was preceded by an _effendi_, mounted on a +camel, richly furnished, reading aloud the alcoran, finely bound, +laid upon a cushion. He was surrounded by a parcel of boys, in +white, singing some verses of it, followed by a man dressed in green +boughs, representing a clean husbandman sowing seed. After him +several reapers, With garlands of ears of corn, as Ceres is pictured, +with scythes in their hands, seeming to mow. Then a little machine +drawn by oxen, in which was a wind-mill, and boys employed in +grinding corn, followed by another machine, drawn by buffaloes, +carrying an oven, and two more boys, one employed in kneading the +bread, and another in drawing it out of the oven. These boys threw +little cakes on both sides amongst the crowd, and were followed by +the whole company of bakers, marching on foot, two by two, in their +best clothes, with cakes, loaves, pasties, and pies of all sorts on +their heads, and after them two buffoons, or jack-puddings, with +their faces and clothes smeared with meal, who diverted the mob with +their antic gestures. In the same manner followed all the companies +of trade in the empire; the nobler sort, such as jewellers, mercers, +&c. finely mounted, and many of the pageants that represent their +trades, perfectly magnificent; amongst which, that of the furriers +made one of the best figures, being a very large machine, set round +with the skins of ermines, foxes, &c. so well stuffed, that the +animals seemed to be alive, and followed by music and dancers. I +believe they were, upon the whole, twenty thousand men, all ready to +follow his highness, if he commanded them. The rear was closed by +the volunteers, who came to beg the honour of dying in his service. +This part of the shew seemed to me so barbarous, that I removed from +the window upon the first appearance of it. They were all naked to +the middle. Some had their arms pierced through with arrows, left +sticking in them. Others had them sticking in their heads, the blood +trickling down their faces. Some slashed their arms with sharp +knives, making the blood spring out upon those that stood there; and +this is looked upon as an expression of their zeal for glory. I am +told that some make use of it to advance their love; and, when they +are near the window where their mistress stands, (all the women in +town being veiled to see this spectacle) they stick another arrow for +her sake, who gives some sign of approbation and encouragement to +this gallantry. The whole shew lasted for near eight hours, to my +great sorrow, who was heartily tired, though I was in the house of +the widow of the captain bassa (admiral) who refreshed me with +coffee, sweetmeats, sherbet, &c. with all possible civility. + +I WENT two days after, to see, the mosque of sultan Selim I. which is +a building very well worth the curiosity of a traveller. I was, +dressed in my Turkish habit, and admitted without scruple; though I +believe they guessed who I was, by the extreme officiousness of the +door-keeper, to shew me every part of it. It is situated very +advantageously in the midst of the city, and in the highest part of +it, making a very noble show. The first court has four gates, and +the innermost three. They are both of them surrounded with +cloisters, with marble pillars of the Ionic order, finely polished, +and of very lively colours; the whole pavement is of white marble, +and the roof of the cloisters divided into several cupolas or domes, +headed with gilt balls on the top. In the midst of each court, are +fine fountains of white marble; and, before the great gate of the +mosque, a portico, with green marble pillars, which has five gates, +the body of the mosque being one prodigious dome. I understand so +little of architecture, I dare not pretend to speak of the +proportions. It seemed to me very regular, this I am sure of, it is +vastly high, and I thought it the noblest building I ever saw. It +has two rows of marble galleries on pillars, with marble balusters; +the pavement is also marble, covered with Persian carpets. In my +opinion, it is a great addition to its beauty, that it is not divided +into pews, and incumbered with forms and benches like our churches; +nor the pillars (which are most of them red and white marble) +disfigured by the little tawdry images and pictures, that give +Roman-catholic churches the air of toy-shops. The walls seemed to be +inlaid with such very lively colours, in small flowers, that I could +not imagine what stones had been made use of. But going nearer, I +saw they were crusted with japan china, which has a very beautiful +effect. In the midst hung a vast lamp of silver, gilt; besides which, +I do verily believe, there were at least two thousand of a lesser +size. This must look very glorious, when they are all lighted; but +being at night, no women are suffered to enter. Under the large lamp +is a great pulpit of carved wood, gilt; and just by, a fountain to +wash, which, you know, is an essential part of their devotion. In +one corner is a little gallery, inclosed with gilded lattices, for +the grand-signior. At the upper end, a large niche, very like an +altar, raised two steps, covered with gold brocade, and standing +before it, two silver gilt candlesticks, the height of a man, and in +them white wax candles, as thick as a man's waist. The outside of +the mosque is adorned with towers, vastly high, gilt on the top, from +whence the _imaums_ (sic) call the people to prayers. I had the +curiosity to go up one of them, which is contrived so artfully, as to +give surprise to all that see it. There is but one door, which leads +to three different stair-cases, going to the three different stories +of the tower, in such a manner, that three priests may ascend, +rounding, without ever meeting each other; a contrivance very much +admired. Behind the mosque, is an exchange full of shops, where poor +artificers are lodged _gratis_. I saw several dervises (sic) at +their prayers here. They are dressed in a plain piece of woolen, +with their arms bare, and a woolen cap on their heads, like a high +crowned hat without brims. I went to see some other mosques, built +much after the same manner, but not comparable in point of +magnificence to this I have described, which is infinitely beyond any +church in Germany or England; I won't talk of other countries I have +not seen. The seraglio does not seem a very magnificent palace. But +the gardens are very large, plentifully supplied with water, and full +of trees; which is all I know of them, having never been in them. + +I TELL you nothing of the order of Mr W----'s entry, and his +audience. These things are always the same, and have been so often +described, I won't trouble you with the repetition. The young +prince, about eleven years old, sits near his father, when he gives +audience: he is a handsome boy; but, probably, will not immediately +succeed the sultan, there being two sons of sultan Mustapha (his +eldest brother) remaining; the eldest about twenty years old, on whom +the hopes of the people are fixed. This reign has been bloody and +avaricious. I am apt to believe, they are very impatient to see the +end of it. I am, Sir, yours, &c. &c. + +P. S. I will write to you again from Constantinople. + +LET. XXXV. + +To THE ABBOT ----. + +_Constantinople, May_ 29. O. S. + +I HAVE had the advantage of very fine weather, all my journey; and as +the summer is now in its beauty, I enjoyed the pleasure of fine +prospects; and the meadows being full of all sorts of garden flowers, +and sweet herbs, my berlin perfumed the air as it pressed them. The +grand signior furnished us with thirty covered waggons for our +baggage, and five coaches of the country for my women. We found the +road full of the great spahis and their equipages coming out of Asia +to the war. They always travel with tents; but I chose to ly in +houses all the way. I will not trouble you with the names of the +villages we passed, in which there was nothing remarkable, but at +Ciorlei, where there was a _conac_, or little seraglio, built for the +use of the grand signior, when he goes this road. I had the +curiosity to view all the apartments destined for the ladies of his +court. They were in the midst of a thick grove of trees, made fresh +by fountains; but I was most surprised to see the walls almost +covered with little distiches of Turkish verse, wrote with pencils. +I made my interpreter explain them to me, and I found several of them +very well turned; though I easily believed him, that they had lost +much of their beauty in the translation. One was literally thus in +English: + + _We come into this world; we lodge, and we depart; + He never goes, that's lodged within my heart._ + +THE rest of our journey was through fine painted meadows, by the side +of the sea of Marmora, the ancient Propontis. We lay the next night +at Selivrea, anciently a noble town. It is now a good sea-port, and +neatly built enough, and has a bridge of thirty-two arches. Here is +a famous ancient Greek church. I had given one of my coaches to a +Greek lady, who desired the conveniency of travelling with me; she +designed to pay her devotions, and I was glad of the opportunity of +going with her. I found it an ill-built edifice, set out with the +same sort of ornaments, but less rich, as the Roman-catholic +churches. They shewed me a saint's body, where I threw a piece of +money; and a picture of the virgin Mary, drawn by the hand of St +Luke, very little to the credit of his painting; but, however, the +finest Madona (sic) of Italy, is not more famous for her miracles. +The Greeks have a monstrous taste in their pictures, which, for more +finery, are always drawn upon a gold ground. You may imagine what a +good air this has; but they have no notion, either of shade or +proportion. They have a bishop here, who officiated in his purple +robe, and sent me a candle almost as big as myself for a present, +when I was at my lodging. We lay that night at a town called Bujuk +Cekmege, or Great Bridge; and the night following, at Kujuk Cekmege, +or Little Bridge; in a very pleasant lodging, formerly a monastery of +dervises; having before it a large court, encompassed with marble +cloisters, with a good fountain in the middle. The prospect from +this place, and the gardens round it, is the most agreeable I have +seen; and shews, that monks of all religions know how to chuse their +retirements. 'Tis now belonging to a _hogia_ or schoolmaster, who +teaches boys here. I asked him to shew me his own apartment, and was +surprised to see him point to a tall cypress tree in the garden, on +the top of which was a place for a bed for himself, and a little +lower, one for his wife and two children, who slept there every +night. I was so much diverted with the fancy, I resolved to examine +his nest nearer; but after going up fifty steps, I found I had still +fifty to go up, and then I must climb from branch to branch, with +some hazard of my neck. I thought it therefore the best way to come +down again. + +WE arrived the next day at Constantinople; but I can yet tell you +very little of it, all my time having been taken up with receiving +visits, which are, at least, a very good entertainment to the eyes, +the young women being all beauties, and their beauty highly improved +by the high taste of their dress. Our palace is in Pera, which is no +more a suburb of Constantinople, than Westminster is a suburb to +London. All the ambassadors are lodged very near each other. One +part of our house shews us the port, the city, and the seraglio, and +the distant hills of Asia; perhaps, all together, the most beautiful +prospect in the world. + +A CERTAIN French author says, Constantinople is twice as big as +Paris. Mr W----y is unwilling to own 'tis bigger than London, though +I confess it appears to me to be so; but I don't believe it is so +populous. The burying fields about it are certainly much larger than +the whole city. 'Tis surprising what a vast deal of land is lost +this way in Turkey. Sometimes I have seen burying places of several +miles, belonging to very inconsiderable villages, which were formerly +great towns, and retain no other mark of their ancient grandeur, than +this dismal one. On no occasion do they ever remove a stone that +serves for a monument. Some of them are costly enough, being of very +fine marble. They set up a pillar, with a carved turbant on the top +of it, to the memory of a man; and as the turbants, by their +different shapes, shew the quality or profession, 'tis in a manner +putting up the arms of the deceased; besides, the pillar commonly +bears an inscription in gold letters. The ladies have a simple +pillar without other ornament, except those that die unmarried, who +have a rose on the top of their monument. The sepulchres of +particular families are railed in, and planted round with trees. +Those of the sultans, and some great men, have lamps constantly +burning in them. + +WHEN I spoke of their religion, I forgot to mention two +particularities, one of which I have read of, but it seemed so odd to +me, I could not believe it; yet 'tis certainly true; that when a man +has divorced his wife, in the most solemn manner, he can take her +again, upon no other terms, than permitting another man to pass a +night with her; and there are some examples of those who have +submitted to this law, rather than not have back their beloved. The +other point of doctrine is very extraordinary. Any woman that dies +unmarried is looked upon to die in a state of reprobation. To +confirm this belief, they reason, that the end of the creation of +woman is to increase and multiply; and that she is only properly +employed in the works of her calling, when she is bringing forth +children, or taking care of them, which are all the virtues that God +expects from her. And indeed, their way of life, which shuts them +out of all public commerce, does not permit them any other. Our +vulgar notion, that they don't own women to have any souls, is a +mistake. 'Tis true, they say, they are not of so elevated a kind, +and therefore must not hope to be admitted into the paradise +appointed for the men, who are to be entertained by celestial +beauties. But there is a place of happiness destined for souls of +the inferior order, where all good women are to be in eternal bliss. +Many of them are very superstitious, and will not remain widows ten +days, for fear of dying in the reprobate state of an useless +creature. But those that like their liberty, and are not slaves to +their religion, content themselves with marrying when they are afraid +of dying. This is a piece of theology, very different from that +which teaches nothing to be more acceptable to God than a vow of +perpetual virginity: which divinity is most rational, I leave you to +determine. + +I HAVE already made some progress in a collection of Greek medals. +Here are several professed antiquaries, who are ready to serve any +body that desires them. But you cannot imagine how they stare in my +face, when I enquire about them, as if no body was permitted to seek +after medals, till they were grown a piece of antiquity themselves. +I have got some very valuable ones of the Macedonian kings, +particularly one of Perseus, so lively, I fancy I can see all his ill +qualities in his face. I have a prophyry (sic) head finely cut, of +the true Greek sculpture; but who it represents, is to be guessed at +by the learned when I return. For you are not to suppose these +antiquaries (who are all Greeks) know any thing. Their trade is only +to sell; they have correspondents at Aleppo, Grand Cairo, in Arabia +and Palestine, who send them all they can find, and very often great +heaps, that are only fit to melt into pans and kettles. They get the +best price they can for them, without knowing those that are valuable +from those that are not. Those that pretend to skill, generally find +out the image of some saint in the medals of the Greek cities. One +of them, shewing me the figure of a Pallas, with a victory in her +hand on a reverse, assured me, it was the Virgin, holding a crucifix. +The same man offered me the head of a Socrates, on a sardonyx; and, +to enhance the value, gave him the title of saint Augustine. I have +bespoke a mummy, which I hope will come safe to my hands, +notwithstanding the misfortune that befel (sic) a very fine one, +designed for the king of Sweden. He gave a great price for it, and +the Turks took it into their heads, that he must have some +considerable project depending upon it. They fancied it the body of, +God knows who; and that the state of their empire mystically depended +on the conversation of it. Some old prophecies were remembered upon +this occasion, and the mummy committed prisoner to the Seven Towers, +where it has remained under close confinement ever since, I dare not +try my interest in so considerable a point, as the release of it; but +I hope mine will pass without examination. I can tell you nothing +more at present of this famous city. When I have looked a little +about me, you shall hear from me again. I am, Sir, Your's, &c. &c. + +LET. XXXVI. + +TO MR POPE. + +_Belgrade Village, June_ 17. O. S. + +I HOPE, before this time, you have received two or three of my +letters. I had yours but yesterday, though dated the third of +February, in which you suppose me to be dead and buried. I have +already let you know, that I am still alive; but to say truth, I look +upon my present circumstances to be exactly the same with those of +departed spirits. The heats of Constantinople have driven me to this +place, which perfectly answers the description of the Elysian fields. +I am in the middle of a wood, consisting chiefly of fruit-trees, +watered by a vast number of fountains, famous for the excellency of +their water, and divided into many shady walks, upon short grass, +that seems to me artificial, but, I am assured, is the pure work of +nature--within view of the Black sea, from whence we perpetually +enjoy the refreshment of cool breezes, that make us insensible of the +heat of the summer. The village is only inhabited by the richest +amongst the Christians, who meet every night at a fountain, forty +paces from my house, to sing and dance. The beauty and dress of the +women exactly resemble the ideas of the ancient nymphs, as they are +given us by the representations of the poets and painters. But what +persuades me more fully of my decease, is the situation of my own +mind, the profound ignorance I am in, of what passes among the living +(which only comes to me by chance) and the great calmness with which +I receive it. Yet I have still a hankering after my friends and +acquaintances left in the world, according to the authority of that +admirable author, + + _That spirits departed are wondrous kind + To friends and relations left behind: + Which nobody can deny_. + +Of which solemn truth, I am a _dead_ instance. I think Virgil is of +the same opinion, that in human souls there will still be some +remains of human passions: + + --_Curae non ipsae in morte relinquunt_. + +And 'tis very necessary, to make a perfect elysium (sic), that there +should be a river Lethe, which I am not so happy as to find. To say +truth, I am sometimes very weary of the singing, and dancing, and +sunshine, and wish for the smoke and impertinencies in which you +toil; though I endeavour to persuade myself, that I live in a more +agreeable variety than you do; and that Monday, setting of +partridges; Tuesday, reading English; Wednesday, studying in the +Turkish language, (in which, by the way, I am already very learned;) +Thursday, classical authors; Friday, spent in writing; Saturday, at +my needle; and Sunday, admitting of visits, and hearing of music, is +a better way of disposing of the week; than, Monday, at the drawing +room; Tuesday, lady Mohun's; Wednesday, at the opera; Thursday, the +play; Friday, Mrs Chetwynd's, &c. a perpetual round of hearing the +same scandal, and seeing the same follies acted over and over, which +here affect me no more than they do other dead people. I can now +hear of displeasing things with pity, and without indignation. The +reflection on the great gulph (sic) between you and me, cools all +news that come hither. I can neither be sensibly touched with joy or +grief, when I consider, that possibly the cause of either is removed, +before the letter comes to my hands. But (as I said before) this +indolence does not extend to my few friendships; I am still warmly +sensible of yours and Mr Congreve's, and desire to live in your +remembrance, though dead to all the world beside. I am, &c. &c. + +LET. XXXVII. + +TO THE LADY ----. + +_Belgrade Village, June_ 17 O. S. + +I HEARTILY beg your ladyship's pardon; but I really could not forbear +laughing heartily at your letter, and the commissions you are pleased +to honour me with. You desire me to buy you a Greek slave, who is to +be mistress of a thousand good qualities. The Greeks are subjects, +and not slaves. Those who are to be bought in that manner, are +either such as are taken in war, or stolen by the Tartars from +Russia, Circassia, or Georgia, and are such miserable, awkward, poor +wretches, you would not think any of them worthy to be your +house-maids. 'Tis true, that many thousands were taken in the Morea; +but they have been, most of them, redeemed by the charitable +contributions of the Christians, or ransomed by their own relations +at Venice. The fine slaves that wait upon the great ladies, or serve +the pleasures of the great men, are all bought at the age of eight or +nine years old, and educated with great care, to accomplish them in +singing, dancing, embroidery, &c. They are commonly Circassians, and +their patron never sells them, except it is as a punishment for some +very great fault. If ever they grow weary of them, they either +present them to a friend, or give them their freedom. Those that are +exposed to sale at the markets, are always either guilty of some +crime, or so entirely worthless, that they are of no use at all. I +am afraid you will doubt the truth of this account, which, I own, is +very different from our common notions in England; but it is no less +truth for all that.--Your whole letter is full of mistakes, from one +end to the other. I see you have taken your ideas of Turkey, from +that worthy author Dumont, who has wrote with equal ignorance and +confidence. 'Tis a particular pleasure to me here, to read the +voyages to the Levant, which are generally so far removed from truth, +and so full of absurdities, I am very well diverted with them. They +never fail giving you an account of the women, whom, 'tis certain, +they never saw, and talking very wisely of the genius of the men, +into whose company they are never admitted; and very often describe +mosques, which they dare not even peep into. The Turks are very +proud, and will not converse with a stranger they are not assured is +considerable in his own country. I speak of the men of distinction; +for, as to the ordinary fellows, you may imagine what ideas their +conversation can give of the general genius of the people. + +AS to the balm of Mecca, I will certainly send you some; but it is +not so easily got as you suppose it, and I cannot, in conscience, +advise you to make use of it. I know not how it comes to have such +universal applause. All the ladies of my acquaintance at London and +Vienna, have begged me to send pots of it to them. I have had a +present of a small quantity (which, I'll assure you, is very +valuable) of the best sort, and with great joy applied it to my face, +expecting some wonderful effect to my advantage. The next morning, +the change indeed was wonderful; my face was swelled to a very +extraordinary size, and all over as red as my lady H----'s. It +remained in this lamentable state three days, during which, you may +be sure, I passed my time very ill. I believed it would never be +otherways (sic); and to add to my mortification, Mr W----y reproached +my indiscretion, without ceasing. However, my face is since _in +statu quo_; nay, I am told by the ladies here, that it is much mended +by the operation, which, I confess, I cannot perceive in my +looking-glass. Indeed, if one was to form an opinion of this balm +from their faces, one should think very well of it. They all make +use of it, and have the loveliest bloom in the world. For my part, I +never intend to endure the pain of it again; let my complexion take +its natural course, and decay in its own due time. I have very +little esteem for medicines of this nature, but do as you please, +madam; only remember, before you use it, that your face will not be +such as you will care to shew in the drawing-room for some days +after. If one was to believe the women in this country, there is a +surer way of making one's self beloved, than by becoming handsome; +though, you know that's our method. But they pretend to the +knowledge of secrets, that, by way of inchantment (sic), give them +the entire empire over whom they please. For me, who am not very apt +to believe in wonders, I cannot find faith for this. I disputed the +point last night with a lady, who really talks very sensibly on any +other subject; but she was downright angry with me, in that she did +not perceive, she had persuaded me of the truth of forty stories she +told me of this kind; and, at last, mentioned several ridiculous +marriages, that there could be no other reason assigned for. I +assured her, that, in England, where we were entirely ignorant of all +magic, where the climate is not half so warm, nor the women half so +handsome, we were not without our ridiculous marriages; and that we +did not look upon it as any thing supernatural, when a man played the +fool, for the sake of a woman. But my arguments could not convince +her against (as she said) her certain knowledge. To this she added, +that she scrupled making use of _charms_ herself; but that she could +do it whenever she pleased; and, staring me in the face, said, (with +a very learned air) that no enchantments would have their effects +upon me; and that there were some people exempt from their power, but +very few. You may imagine how I laughed at this discourse; but all +the women are of the same opinion. They don't pretend to any +commerce with the devil; but only that there are certain compositions +adapted to inspire love. If one could send over a ship-load of them, +I fancy it would be a very quick way of raising an estate. What +would not some ladies of our acquaintance give for such merchandize? +Adieu, my dear lady ----. I cannot conclude my letter with a subject +that affords more delightful scenes to the imagination. I leave you +to figure to yourself the extreme court that will be made to me, at +my return, if my travels should furnish me with such a useful piece +of learning. I am, dear madam, yours, &c. &c. + +LET. XXXVIII. + +TO MRS T----. + +_Pera of Constantinople, Jan_. 4. O. S. + +I AM infinitely obliged to you, dear Mrs T---- for your entertaining +letter. You are the only one of my correspondents that have judged +right enough, to think I would gladly be informed of the news amongst +you. All the rest of them tell me, (almost in the same words) that +they suppose I know every thing. Why they are pleased to suppose in +this manner, I can guess no reason, except they are persuaded, that +the breed of Mahomet's pigeon still subsists in this country, and +that I receive supernatural intelligence. I wish I could return your +goodness with some diverting accounts from hence. But I know not +what part of the scenes here would gratify your curiosity, or whether +you have any curiosity at all for things so far distant. To say the +truth, I am at this present writing, not very much turned for the +recollection of what is diverting, my head being wholly filled with +the preparations necessary for the increase of my family, which I +expect every day. You may easily guess at my uneasy situation. But +I am, however, comforted in some degree, by the glory that accrues to +me from it, and a reflection on the contempt I should otherwise fall +under. You won't know what to make of this speech; but, in this +country, 'tis more despicable to be married and not fruitful, than +'tis with us to be fruitful before marriage. They have a notion, +that whenever a woman leaves off bringing forth children, 'tis +because she is too old for that business, whatever her face says to +the contrary. This opinion makes the ladies here so ready to make +proofs of their youth, (which is as necessary, in order to be a +_received beauty_, as it is to shew the proofs of nobility, to be +admitted _knights of Malta_) that they do not content themselves with +using the natural means, but fly to all sorts of quackeries, to avoid +the scandal of being past childbearing, and often kill themselves by +them. Without any exaggeration, all the women of my acquaintance +have twelve or thirteen children; and the old ones boast of having +had five and twenty, or thirty a-piece, and are respected according +to the number they have produced.--When they are with child, 'tis +their common expression to say, _They hope God will be so merciful as +to send them two this time;_ and when I have asked them sometimes, +How they expected to provide for such a flock as they desire? They +answered, That the plague will certainly kill half of them; which, +indeed, generally happens, without much concern to the parents, who +are satisfied with the vanity of having brought forth so plentifully. +The French ambassadress is forced to comply with this fashion as well +as myself. She has not been here much above a year, and has lain in +once, and is big again. What is most wonderful, is, the exemption +they seem to enjoy from the curse entailed on the sex. They see all +company on the day of their delivery, and, at the fortnight's end, +return visits, set out in their jewels and new clothes. I wish I may +find the influence of the climate in this particular. But I fear I +shall continue an English woman in that affair, as well as I do in my +dread of fire and plague, which are two things very little feared +here. Most families have had their houses burnt down once or twice, +occasioned by their extraordinary way of warming themselves, which is +neither by chimnies (sic) nor stoves, but by a certain machine called +a _tendour_, the height of two feet, in the form of a table, covered +with a fine carpet or embroidery. This is made only of wood, and +they put into it a small quantity of hot ashes, and sit with their +legs under the carpet. At this table they work, read and very often, +sleep; and, if they chance to dream, kick down the _tendour_, and the +hot ashes commonly set the house on fire. There were five hundred +houses burnt in this manner about a fortnight ago, and I have seen +several of the owners since, who seem not at all moved at so common a +misfortune. They put their goods into a _bark_, and see their houses +burn with great philosophy, their persons being very seldom +endangered, having no stairs to descend. + +BUT, having entertained you with things I don't like, 'tis but just I +should tell you something that pleases me. The climate is delightful +in the extremest degree. I am now sitting, this present fourth of +January, with the windows open, enjoying the warm shine of the sun, +while you are freezing over a sad sea-coal fire; and my chamber is +set out with carnations, roses, and jonquils, fresh from my garden. +I am also charmed with many points of the Turkish law, to our shame +be it spoken, better designed, and better executed than ours; +particularly, the punishment of convicted liars (triumphant criminals +in our country, God knows). They are burnt in the forehead with a +hot iron, when they are proved the authors of any notorious +falsehoods. How many white foreheads should we see disfigured! How +many fine gentlemen would be forced to wear their wigs as low as +their eye-brows, were this law in practice with us! I should go on +to tell you many other parts of justice, but I must send for my +midwife. + +LET. XXXIX. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Pera of Constantinople, March_ 10. O. S. + +I HAVE not written to you, dear sister, these many months--a great +piece of self-denial. But I know not where to direct, or what part +of the world you are in. I have received no letter from you since +that short note of April last, in which you tell me, that you are on +the point of leaving England, and promise me a direction for the +place you stay in; but I have, in vain, expected it till now; and now +I only learn from the gazette, that you are returned, which induces +me to venture this letter to your house at London. I had rather ten +of my letters should be lost, than you imagine I don't write; and I +think it is hard fortune, if one in ten don't reach you. However, I +am resolved to keep the copies, as testimonies of my inclination, to +give you, to the utmost of my power, all the diverting part of my +travels, while you are exempt from all the fatigues and +inconveniences. + +IN the first place, then, I wish you joy of your niece; for I was +brought to bed of a daughter [Footnote: The present Countess of Bute] +five weeks ago. I don't mention this as one of my diverting +adventures; though I must own, that it is not half so mortifying here +as in England; there being as much difference, as there is between a +little cold in the head, which sometimes happens here, and the +consumption cough, so common in London. No body keeps their house a +month for lying in; and I am not so fond of any of our customs, as to +retain them when they are not necessary. I returned my visits at +three weeks end; and, about four days ago, crossed the sea, which +divides this place from Constantinople, to make a new one, where I +had the good fortune to pick up many curiosities. I went to see the +sultana: Hafiten, favourite of the late emperor Mustapha, who, you +know, (or perhaps you don't know) was deposed by his brother, the +reigning sultan, and died a few weeks after, being poisoned, as it +was generally believed. This lady was, immediately after his death, +saluted with an absolute order to leave the seraglio, and chuse +herself a husband among the great men at the Porte. I suppose +you may imagine her overjoyed at this proposal.--Quite the +contrary.--These women, who are called, and esteem themselves queens, +look upon this liberty as the greatest disgrace and affront that can +happen to them. She threw herself at the sultan's feet, and begged +him to poniard (sic) her, rather than use his brother's widow with +that contempt. She represented to him, in agonies of sorrow, that +she was privileged from this misfortune, by having brought five +princes into the Ottoman family; but all the boys being dead, and +only one girl surviving, this excuse was not received, and she was +compelled to make her choice. She chose Bekir Effendi, then +secretary of state, and above four score years old, to convince the +world, that she firmly intended to keep the vow she had made, of +never suffering a second husband to approach her bed; and since she +must honour some subject so far, as to be called his wife, she would +chuse him as a mark of her gratitude, since it was he that had +presented her, at the age of ten years, to, her last lord. But she +never permitted him to pay her one visit; though it is now fifteen +years she has been in his house, where she passes her time in +uninterrupted mourning, with a constancy very little known in +Christendom, especially in a widow of one and twenty, for she is now +but thirty-six. She has no black eunuchs for her guard, her husband +being obliged to respect her as a queen, and not to inquire at all +into what is done in her apartment. + +I WAS led into a large room, with a sofa the whole length of it, +adorned with white marble pillars like a _ruelle_, covered with pale +blue figured velvet, on a silver ground, with cushions of the same, +where I was desired to repose, till the sultana appeared, who had +contrived this manner of reception, to avoid rising up at my +entrance, though she made me an inclination of her head, when I rose +up to her. I was very glad to observe a lady that had been +distinguished by the favour of an emperor, to whom beauties were, +every day, presented from all parts of the world. But she did not +seem to me, to have ever been half so beautiful as the fair Fatima I +saw at Adrianople; though she had the remains of a fine face, more +decayed by sorrow than time. But her dress was something so +surprisingly rich, that I cannot forbear describing it to you. She +wore a vest called _dualma_, which differs from a _caftan_ by longer +sleeves, and folding over at the bottom. It was of purple cloth, +strait to her shape, and thick set, on each side, down to her feet, +and round the sleeves, with pearls of the best water, of the same +size as their buttons commonly are. You must not suppose, that I +mean as large as those of my Lord ----, but about the bigness of a +pea; and to these buttons large loops of diamonds, in the form of +those gold loops, so common on birth-day coats. This habit was tied, +at the waist, with two large tassels of smaller pearls, and round the +arms embroidered with large diamonds. Her shift was fastened at the +bottom with a great diamond, shaped like a lozenge; her girdle as +broad as the broadest English ribband, entirely covered with +diamonds. Round her neck she wore three chains, which reached to her +knees; one of large pearl, at the bottom of which hung a fine +coloured emerald, as big as a turkey-egg; another, consisting of two +hundred emeralds, close joined together, of the most lively green, +perfectly matched, every one as large as a half-crown piece, and as +thick as three crown pieces, and another of small emeralds, perfectly +round. But her ear-rings eclipsed all the rest. They were two +diamonds, shaped exactly like pears, as large as a big hazle-nut +(sic). Round her _talpoche_ she had four strings of pearl--the +whitest and most perfect in the world, at least enough to make four +necklaces, every one as large as the duchess of Marlborough's, and of +the same shape, fastened with two roses, consisting of a large ruby +for the middle stone, and round them twenty drops of clean diamonds +to each. Besides this, her head-dress was covered with bodkins of +emeralds and diamonds. She wore large diamond bracelets, and had +five rings on her fingers (except Mr Pitt's) the largest I ever saw +in my life. 'Tis for jewellers to compute the value of these things; +but, according to the common estimation of jewels, in our part of the +world, her whole dress must be worth a hundred thousand pounds +sterling. This I am sure of, that no European queen has half the +quantity; and the empress's jewels, though very fine would look very +mean near her's. She gave me a dinner of fifty dishes of meat, which +(after their fashion) were placed on the table but one at a time, and +was extremely tedious. But the magnificence of her table answered +very well to that of her dress. The knives were of gold, and the +hafts set with diamonds. But the piece of luxury which grieved my +eyes, was the table-cloth and napkins, which were all tiffany, +embroidered with silk and gold, in the finest manner, in natural +flowers. It was with the utmost regret that I made use of these +costly napkins, which were as finely wrought as the finest +handkerchiefs that ever came out of this country. You may be sure, +that they were entirely spoiled before dinner was over. The sherbet +(which is the liquor they drink at meals) was served in china bowls; +but the covers and salvers massy gold. After dinner, water was +brought in gold basons, and towels of the same kind with the napkins, +which I very unwillingly wiped my hands upon, and coffee was served +in china, with gold _soucoups_ [Footnote: Saucers.] + +THE sultana seemed in a very good humour, and talked to me with the +utmost civility. I did not omit this opportunity of learning all +that I possibly could of the seraglio, which is so entirely unknown +amongst us. She assured me, that the story of the sultan's _throwing +a handkerchief_, is altogether fabulous; and the manner, upon that +occasion, no other than this: He sends the _kyslir aga_, to signify +to the lady the honour he intends her. She is immediately +complimented upon it, by the others, and led to the bath, where she +is perfumed and dressed in the most magnificent and becoming manner. +The emperor precedes his visit by a royal present, and then comes +into her apartment: neither is there any such thing as her creeping +in at the bed's foot. She said, that the first he made choice of was +always after the first in rank, and not the mother of the eldest son, +as other writers would make us believe. Sometimes the sultan diverts +himself in the company of all his ladies, who stand in a circle round +him. And she confessed, they were ready to die with envy and +jealousy of the _happy she_ that he distinguished by any appearance +of preference. But this seemed to me neither better nor worse than +the circles in most courts, where the glance of the monarch is +watched, and every smile is waited for with impatience, and envied by +those who cannot obtain it. + +SHE never mentioned the sultan without tears in her eyes, yet she +seemed very fond of the discourse. "My past happiness, _said she_, +"appears a dream to me. Yet I cannot forget, that I was beloved by +"the greatest and most lovely of mankind. I was chosen from all the +"rest, to make all his campaigns with him; and I would not survive +"him, if I was not passionately fond of the princess my daughter. +"Yet all my tenderness for her was hardly enough to make me preserve +"my life. When I left him, I passed a whole twelvemonth without +"seeing the light. Time has softened my despair; yet I now pass some +"days every week in tears, devoted to the memory of my sultan." +There was no affectation in these words. It was easy to see she was +in a deep melancholy, though her good humour made her willing to +divert me. + +SHE asked me to walk in her garden, and one of her slaves immediately +brought her a _pellice_ of rich brocade lined with sables. I waited +on her into the garden, which had nothing in it remarkable but the +fountains; and from thence she shewed me all her apartments. In her +bed-chamber, her toilet was displayed, consisting of two +looking-glasses, the frames covered With pearls, and her night +_talpoche_ set with bodkins of jewels, and near it three vests of +fine sables, every one of which is, at least, worth a thousand +dollars, (two hundred pounds English money.) I don't doubt but these +rich habits were purposely placed in sight, though they seemed +negligently thrown on the sofa. When I took my leave of her, I was +complimented with perfumes, as at the grand vizier's, and presented +with a very fine embroidered handkerchief. Her slaves were to the +number of thirty, besides ten little ones, the eldest not above +seven years old. These were the most beautiful girls I ever saw, all +richly dressed; and I observed that the sultana took a great deal of +pleasure in these lovely children, which is a vast expence; for there +is not a handsome girl of that age to be bought under a hundred +pounds sterling. They wore little garlands of flowers, and their own +hair, braided, which was all their head-dress; but their habits were +all of gold stuffs. These served her coffee kneeling; brought water +when she washed, &c.--'Tis a great part of the work of the older +slaves to take care of these young girls, to learn them to embroider, +and to serve them as carefully as if they were children of the +family. Now, do you imagine I have entertained you, all this while, +with a relation that has, at least, received many embellishments from +my hand? This, you will say, is but too like the Arabian +tales.--These embroidered napkins! and a jewel as large as a turkey's +egg!--You forget, dear sister, those very tales were written by an +author of this country, and (excepting the enchantments) are a real +representation of the manners here. We travellers are in very hard +circumstances: If we say nothing but what has been said before us, +_we are dull, and we have observed nothing_. If we tell any thing +new, we are laughed at as _fabulous and romantic_, not allowing +either for the difference of ranks, which affords difference of +company, or more curiosity, or the change of customs, that happen +every twenty years in every country. But the truth is, people judge +of travellers, exactly with the same candour, good nature, and +impartiality, they judge of their neighbours upon all occasions. For +my part, if I live to return amongst you, I am so well acquainted +with the morals of all my dear friends and acquaintances, that I am +resolved to tell them nothing at all, to avoid the imputation (which +their charity would certainly incline them to) of my telling too +much. But I depend upon your knowing me enough, to believe whatever +I seriously assert for truth; though I give you leave to be surprised +at an account so new to you. But what would you say if I told you, +that I have been in a haram, where the winter apartment was +wainscoted (sic) with inlaid work of mother of pearl, ivory of +different colours, and olive wood, exactly like the little boxes you +have seen brought Out of this country; and in whose rooms designed +for summer, the walls are all crusted with japan china, the roofs +gilt, and the floors spread with the finest Persian carpets? Yet +there is nothing more true; such is the palace of my lovely friend, +the fair Fatima, whom I was acquainted with at Adrianople. I went +to visit her yesterday; and, if possible, she appeared to me +handsomer than before. She met me at the door of her chamber, and, +giving me her hand With the best grace in the world; You Christian +ladies (said she, with a smile that made her as beautiful as an +angel) have the reputation of inconstancy, and I did not expect, +whatever goodness you expressed for me at Adrianople, that I should +ever see you again. But I am now convinced that I have really the +happiness of pleasing you; and, if you knew how I speak of you +amongst our ladies, you would be assured, that you do me justice in +making me your friend. She placed me in the corner of the sofa, and +I spent the afternoon in her conversation, with the greatest pleasure +in the world.--The sultana Hafiten is, what one Would naturally +expect to find a Turkish lady, willing to oblige, but not knowing how +to go about it; and 'tis easy to see, in her manner, that she has +lived excluded from the world. But Fatima has all the politeness and +good breeding of a court, with an air that inspires, at once, respect +and tenderness; and now, that I understand her language, I find her +wit as agreeable as her beauty. She is very carious after the +manners of other countries, and has not the partiality for her own, +so common in little minds. A Greek that I carried with me, who had +never seen her before, (nor could have been admitted now, if she had +not been in my train,) shewed that surprise at her beauty and +manners, which is unavoidable at the first sight, and said to me in +Italian,--_This is no Turkish lady, she is certainly some +Christian_.--Fatima guessed she spoke of her, and asked what she +said. I would not have told her, thinking she would have been no +better pleased with the compliment, than one of our court beauties to +be told she had the air of a Turk; but the Greek lady told it to her; +and she smiled, saying, _It is not the first time I have heard so: my +mother was a Poloneze, taken at the siege of Caminiec; and my father +used to rally me, saying, He believed his Christian wife had found +some gallant; for that I had not the air of a Turkish girl_.--I +assured her, that if all the Turkish ladies were like her, it was +absolute necessary to confine them from public view, for the repose +of mankind; and proceeded to tell her, what a noise such a face as +hers would make in London or Paris. _I can't believe you_, replied +she agreeably; _if beauty was so much valued in your country, as you +say, they would never have suffered you to leave it_.--Perhaps, dear +sister, you laugh at my vanity in repeating this compliment; but I +only do it, as I think it very well turned, and give it you as an +instance of the spirit of her conversation. Her house was +magnificently furnished, and very well fancied; her winter rooms +being furnished with figured velvet, on gold grounds, and those for +summer, with fine Indian quilting embroidered with gold. The houses +of the great Turkish ladies are kept clean with as much nicety as +those in Holland. This was situated in a high part of the town; and +from the window of her summer apartment, we had the prospect of the +sea, the islands, and the Asian mountains.--My letter is insensibly +grown so long, I am ashamed of it. This is a very bad symptom. 'Tis +well if I don't degenerate into a downright story-teller. It may be, +our proverb, that _knowledge is no burden_, may be true, as to one's +self but knowing too much, is very apt to make us troublesome to +other people. I am, &c, &c. + +LET. XL. + +TO THE LADY ----. + +_Pera, March_ 16. O. S. + +I AM extremely pleased, my dear lady, that you have, at length, found +a commission for me, that I can answer, without disappointing your +expectations; though I must tell you, that it is not so easy as +perhaps you think it; and that if my curiosity had not been more +diligent than any other stranger's has ever yet been, I must have +answered you with an excuse, as, I was forced to do, when you desired +me to buy you a Greek slave. I have got for you, as you desire, a +Turkish love-letter, which I have put into a little box, and ordered +the captain of the Smyrniote to deliver it to you with this letter. +The translation of it is literally as follows: The first piece you +should pull out of the purse, is a little pearl, which is in Turkish +called _Ingi_, and must be understood in this manner: + +Ingi, Sensin Uzellerin gingi +_Pearl_, _Fairest of the young_. + +Caremfil, Caremfilsen cararen yok +_Clove_, Conge gulsum timarin yok + Benseny chok than severim + Senin benden, haberin yok. + + _You are as slender as the clove!_ + _You are an unblown rose!_ + _I have long loved you, and you have not known it!_ + +Pul, Derdime derman bul +_Jonquil_, _Have pity on my passion!_ + +Kihat, Birlerum sahat sahat +_Paper_, _I faint every hour!_ + +Ermus, Ver bixe bir umut +_Pear_, _Give me some hope._ + +Jabun, Derdinden oldum zabun +_Soap_, _I am sick with love._ + +Chemur, Ben oliyim size umur +_Coal_, _May I die, and all my years be yours!_ + +GUl Ben aglarum sen gul +_A rose_, _May you be pleased, and your sorrows mine!_ + +Hasir, Oliim sana yazir +_A straw_, _Suffer me to be your slave._ + +Jo ho, Ustune bulunmaz pahu +_Cloth_, _Your price is not to be found._ + +Tartsin, Sen ghel ben chekeim senin hargin +_Cinnamon_, _But my fortune is yours._ + +Giro, Esking-ilen oldum ghira +_A match_, _I burn, I burn! my flame consumes me!_ + +Sirma, Uzunu benden a yirma +_Goldthread_, _Don't turn away your face._ + +Satch, Bazmazum tatch +_Hair_, _Crown of my head!_ + +Uzum Benim iki Guzum +_Grape_, _My eyes!_ + +Til, Ulugorum tez ghel +_Gold wire_, _I die--come quickly._ + + And, by way of postscript: + +Beber, Bize bir dogm haber +_Pepper_, _Send me an answer._ + +You see this letter is all in verse, and I can assure you, there is +as much fancy shewn in the choice of them, as in the most studied +expressions of our letters; there being, I believe, a million of +verses designed for this use. There is no colour, no flower, no +weed, no fruit, herb, pebble, or feather, that has not a verse +belonging to it; and you may quarrel, reproach, or send letters of +passion, friendship, or civility, or even Of news, without ever +inking your fingers. + +I FANCY you are now wondering at my profound learning; but, alas! +dear madam, I am almost fallen into the misfortune so common to the +ambitious; while they are employed on distant insignificant conquests +abroad, a rebellion starts up at home;--I am in great danger of +losing my English. I find 'tis not half so easy to me to write in +it, as it was a twelvemonth ago. I am forced to study for +expressions, and must leave off all other languages, and try to learn +my mother tongue.--Human understanding is as much limited as human +power, or human strength. The memory can retain but a certain number +of images; and 'tis as impossible for one human creature to be +perfect master of ten different languages, as to have, in perfect +subjection, ten different kingdoms, or to fight against ten men at a +time; I am afraid I shall at last know none as I should do. I live +in a place, that very well represents the tower of Babel: in Pera +they speak Turkish, Greek, Hebrew, Armenian, Arabic, Persian, +Russian, Sclavonian, Walachian, German, Dutch, French, English, +Italian, Hungarian; and, what is worse, there are ten of these +languages spoken in my own family. My grooms are Arabs; my footmen +French, English, and Germans; my nurse an Armenian; my house-maids +Russians; half a dozen other servants, Greeks; my steward an Italian; +my janizaries Turks; so that I live in the perpetual hearing of this +medley of sounds, which produces a very extraordinary effect upon the +people that are born here; for they learn all these languages at the +same time, and without knowing any of them well enough to write or +read in it. There are very few men, women, or even children here, +that have not the same compass of words in five or six of them. I +know, myself, several infants of three or four years old, that speak +Italian, French, Greek, Turkish, and Russian, which last they learn +of their nurses, who are generally of that country. This seems +almost incredible to you, and is, in my mind, one of the most curious +things in this country, and takes off very much from the merit of our +ladies, who set up for such extraordinary geniuses, upon the credit +of some superficial knowledge of French and Italian. + +AS I prefer English to all the rest, I am extremely mortified at the +daily decay of it in my head, where I'll assure you (with grief of +heart) it is reduced to such a small number of words, I cannot +recollect any tolerable phrase to conclude my letter with, and am +forced to tell your ladyship very bluntly, that I am, + Your's, &C. &c. + +LET. XLI. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF B----. + +AT length I have heard from my dear Lady B----, for the first time. +I am persuaded you have had the goodness to write before, but I have +had the ill fortune to lose your letters. Since my last, I have +staid (sic) quietly at Constantinople, a city that I ought in +conscience to give your ladyship a right notion of, since I know you +can have none but what is partial and mistaken from the writings of +travellers. 'Tis certain, there are many people that pass years here +in Pera, without having ever seen it, and yet they all pretend to +describe it. Pera, Tophana, and Galata, wholly inhabited by French +Christians (and which, together, make the appearance of a very fine +town,) are divided from it by the sea, which is not above half so +broad as the broadest part of the Thames; but the Christian men are +loth to hazard the adventures they sometimes meet with amongst the +_levents_ or seamen, (worse monsters than our watermen) and the women +must cover their faces to go there, which they have a perfect +aversion to do. 'Tis true, they wear veils in Pera, but they are +such as only serve to shew their beauty to more advantage, and would +not be permitted in Constantinople. These reasons deter almost every +creature from seeing it; and the French ambassadress will return to +France (I believe) without ever having been there. You'll wonder, +madam, to hear me add, that I have been there very often. The +_asmack_, or Turkish veil, is become not only very easy, but +agreeable to me; and, if it was not, I would be content to endure +some inconveniency, to gratify a passion that is become so powerful +with me, as curiosity. And, indeed, the pleasure of going in a barge +to Chelsea, is not comparable to that of rowing upon the canal of the +sea here, where, for twenty miles together, down the Bosphorus, the +most beautiful variety of prospects present themselves. The Asian +side is covered with fruit-trees, villages, and the most delightful +landskips (sic) in nature; on the European, stands Constantinople, +situated on seven hills.--The unequal heights make it seem as large +again as it is, (though one of the largest cities in the world) +shewing an agreeable mixture of gardens, pine and cypress-trees, +palaces, mosques, and public buildings, raised one above another, +with as much beauty and appearance of symmetry, as your ladyship ever +saw in a cabinet, adorned by the most skilful hands, where jars shew +themselves above jars, mixed with canisters, babies and candlesticks. +This is a very odd comparison; but it gives me an exact idea of the +thing. I have taken care to see as much of the seraglio as is to be +seen. It is on a point of land running into the sea; a palace of +prodigious extent, but very irregular. The gardens take in a large +compass of ground, full of high cypress-trees, which is all I know of +them. The buildings are all of white stone, leaded on the top, with +gilded turrets and spires, which look very magnificent; and, indeed, +I believe there is no Christian-king's palace half so large. There +are six large courts in it, all built round, and set with trees, +having galleries of stone; one of these for the guard, another for +the slaves, another for the officers of the kitchen, another for the +stables, the fifth for the divan, and the sixth for the apartment +destined for audiences. On the ladies side, there are, at least, as +many more, with distinct courts belonging to their eunuchs and +attendants, their kitchens, &c. + +THE next remarkable structure is that of St Sophia which is very +difficult to see. I was forced to send three times to the +_caimairam_, (the governor of the town) and he assembled the chief +_effendis_, or heads of the law, and enquired of the _mufti_, whether +it was lawful to permit it. They passed some days in this important +debate; but I insisting on my request, permission was granted. I +can't be informed why the Turks are more delicate on the subject of +this mosque, than on any of the others, where what Christian pleases +may enter without scruple. I fancy they imagine, that, having been +once consecrated, people, on pretence of curiosity, might profane it +with prayers, particularly to those saints, who are still very +visible in Mosaic work, and no other way defaced but by the decays of +time; for it is absolutely false, though so universally asserted, +that the Turks defaced all the images that they found in the city. +The dome of St Sophia is said to be one hundred and thirteen feet +diameter, built upon arches, sustained by vast pillars of marble, the +pavement and stair-case marble. There are two rows of galleries, +supported with pillars of party-coloured (sic) marble, and the whole +roof Mosaic work, part of which decays very fast, and drops down. +They presented me a handful of it; its composition seems to me a sort +of glass, or that paste with which they make counterfeit jewels. +They shew here the tomb of the emperor Constantine, for which they +have a great veneration. + +THIS is a dull, imperfect description, of this celebrated building; +but I understand architecture so little, that I am afraid of talking +nonsense, in endeavouring to speak of it particularly. Perhaps I am +in the wrong, but some Turkish mosques please me better. That of +sultan Solyman is an exact square, with four fine towers in the +angles, in the midst is a noble cupola, supported with beautiful +marble pillars; two lesser at the ends, supported in the same manner; +the pavement and gallery round the mosque, of marble; under the great +cupola is a fountain, adorned with such fine coloured pillars, that I +can hardly think them natural marble; on one side is the pulpit, of +white marble, and on the other, the little gallery for the grand +signior. A fine stair-case leads to it, and it is built up with +gilded lattices. At the upper end is a sort of altar, where the name +of God is written; and before it stand two candlesticks, as high as a +man, with wax candles as thick as three flambeaux. The pavement is +spread with fine carpets, and the mosque illuminated with a vast +number of lamps. The court leading to it is very spacious, with +galleries of marble, of green columns, covered with twenty-eight +leaded cupolas on two sides, and a fine fountain of basins in the +midst of it. + +THIS description may serve for all the mosques in Constantinople. +The model is exactly the same, and they only differ in largeness and +richness of materials. That of the sultana Valida is the largest of +all, built entirely of marble, the most prodigious, and, I think, the +most beautiful structure I ever saw, be it spoken to the honour of +our sex, for it was founded by the mother of Mahomet IV. Between +friends, Paul's church would make a pitiful figure near it, as any of +our squares would do near the _atlerdan_, or place of horses, (_at_ +signifying a horse in Turkish). This was the _hippodrome_, in the +reign of the Greek emperors. In the midst of it is a brazen column, +of three serpents twisted together, with their mouths gaping. 'Tis +impossible to learn why so odd a pillar was erected; the Greeks can +tell nothing but fabulous legends, when they are asked the meaning of +it, and there is no sign of its having ever had any inscription. At +the upper end is an obelisk of porphyry, probably brought from Egypt, +the hieroglyphics all very entire, which I look upon as mere ancient +puns. It is placed on four little brazen pillars, upon a pedestal of +square free stone, full of figures in bas-relief on two sides; one +square representing a battle, another an assembly. The others have +inscriptions in Greek and Latin; the last I took in my pocket-book, +and it is as follows: + + _Difficilis quondam, dominis parere serenis + Jussus, et extinctis palman portare tyrannis + Omnia Theodosio cedunt, sobolique perenni_. + +Your lord will interpret these lines. Don't fancy they are a +love-letter to him. + +ALL the figures have their heads on; and I cannot forbear reflecting +again on the impudence of authors, who all say they have not; but I +dare swear the greatest part of them never saw them; but took the +report from the Greeks, who resist, with incredible fortitude, the +conviction of their own eyes, whenever they have invented lies to the +dishonour of their enemies. Were you to believe them, there is +nothing worth seeing in Constantinople, but Sancta Sophia, though +there are several large, and, in my opinion, more beautiful mosques +in that city. That of sultan Achmet has this particularity, that its +gates are of brass. In all these mosques there are little chapels, +where are the tombs of the founders and their families, with wax +candles burning before them. + +THE Exchanges are all noble buildings, full of fine alleys, the +greatest part supported with pillars, and kept wonderfully neat. +Every trade has its distinct alley, where the merchandize is disposed +in the same order as in the New Exchange at London. The _besisten_, +or jeweller's quarter, shews so much riches, such a vast quantity of +diamonds, and all kinds of precious stones, that they dazzle the +sight. The embroiderer's is also very glittering, and people walk +here as much for diversion as business. The markets are most of them +handsome squares, and admirably well provided, perhaps better than in +any other part of the world. + +I KNOW, you'll expect I should say something particular of the +slaves; and you will imagine me half a Turk, when I don't speak of it +with the same horror other Christians have done before me. But I +cannot forbear applauding the humanity of the Turks to these +creatures; they are never ill used, and their slavery is, in my +opinion, no worse than servitude all over the world. 'Tis true, they +have no wages; but they give them yearly clothes to a higher value +than our salaries to our ordinary servants. But you'll object, that +men buy women _with an eye to evil_. In my opinion, they are bought +and sold as publicly, and as infamously, in all our Christian great +cities. + +I MUST add to the description of Constantinople, that the _historical_ +pillar is no more. It dropped down about two years before I came to +this part of the world. I have seen no other footsteps of antiquity, +except the aqueducts, which are so vast, that I am apt to believe +they are yet more ancient than the Greek empire. The Turks indeed +have clapped in some stones with Turkish inscriptions, to give their +natives the honour of so great a work; but the deceit is easily +discovered.--The other public buildings are the hanns and +monasteries; the first are very large and numerous; the second few in +number, and not at all magnificent. I had the curiosity to visit one +of them, and to observe the devotions of the dervises, which are as +whimsical as any at Rome. These fellows have permission to marry, +but are confined to an odd habit, which is only a piece of coarse +white cloth, wrapped about them, with their legs and arms naked. +Their order has few other rules, except that of performing their +fantastic rites, every Tuesday and Friday, which is done in this +manner: They meet together in a large hall, where they all stand with +their eyes fixed on the ground, and their arms across, while the + _imaum_ or preacher reads part of the alcoran from a pulpit placed +in the midst; and when he has done, eight or ten of them make a +melancholy concert with their pipes, which are no unmusical +instruments. Then he reads again, and makes a short exposition on +what he has read; after which they sing and play, 'till their +superior (the only one of them dressed in green) rises and begins a +sort of solemn dance. They all stand about him in a regular figure; +and while some play, the others tie their robe (which is very wide) +fast round their waist, and begin to turn round with an amazing +swiftness, and yet with great regard to the music, moving slower or +faster as the tune is played. This lasts above an hour, without any +of them shewing the least appearance of giddiness, which is not to be +wondered at, when it is considered they are all used to it from their +infancy; most of them being devoted to this way of life from their +birth. There turned amongst them some little dervises, of six or +seven years old, who seemed no more disordered by that exercise than +the others. At the end of the ceremony, they shout out, _There is no +other god, but God, and Mahomet his prophet;_ after which, they kiss +the superior's hand, and retire. The whole is performed with the +most solemn gravity. Nothing can be more austere than the form of +these people; they never raise their eyes, and seem devoted to +contemplation. And as ridiculous as this is in description, there is +something touching in the air of submission and mortification they +assume.--This letter is of a horrible length; but you may burn it +when you have read enough, &c. &c. + +LET. XLII. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +I AM now preparing to leave Constantinople, and perhaps you will +accuse me of hypocrisy, when I tell you 'tis with regret, but as I am +used to the air, and have learnt the language, I am easy here; and as +much as I love travelling, I tremble at the inconveniencies attending +so great a journey, with a numerous family, and a little infant +hanging at the breast. However, I endeavour, upon this occasion, to +do, as I have hitherto done in all the odd turns of my life; turn +them, if I can, to my diversion. In order to this, I ramble every +day, wrapped up in my _serigee_ and _asmack_, about Constantinople, +and amuse myself with seeing all that is curious in it. I know you +will expect that this declaration should be followed with some +account of what I have seen. But I am in no humour to copy what has +been writ so often over. To what purpose should I tell you, that +Constantinople is the ancient Byzantium? that 'tis at present the +conquest of a race of people, supposed Scythians? that there are five +or six thousand mosques in it? that Sancta Sophia was founded by +Justinian? &c. I'll assure you, 'tis not for want of learning, that +I forbear writing all these bright things. I could also, with very +little trouble, turn over Knolles and Sir Paul Rycaut, to give you a +list of Turkish emperors; but I will not tell you what you may find +in every author that has writ of this country. I am more inclined, +out of a true female spirit of contradiction, to tell you the +falsehood of a great part of what you find in authors; as, for +instance, in the admirable Mr Hill, who so gravely asserts, that he +saw, in Sancta Sophia, a sweating pillar, very balsamic for +disordered heads. There is not the least tradition of any such +matter; and I suppose it was revealed to him in vision, during his +wonderful stay in the Egyptian catacombs; for I am sure he never +heard of any such miracle here. 'Tis also very pleasant to observe +how tenderly he and all his brethren voyage-writers lament the +miserable confinement of the Turkish ladies, who are perhaps more +free than any ladies in the universe, and are the only women in the +world that lead a life of uninterrupted pleasure, exempt from cares; +their whole time being spent in visiting, bathing, or the agreeable +amusement of spending money, and inventing new fashions. A husband +would be thought mad, that exacted any degree of economy from his +wife, whose expences are no way limited but by her own fancy. 'Tis +his business to get money, and hers to spend it: and this noble +prerogative extends itself to the very meanest of the sex. Here is a +fellow that carries embroidered handkerchiefs upon his back to sell. +And as miserable a figure as you may suppose such a mean dealer, yet, +I'll assure you, his wife scorns to wear any thing less than cloth of +gold; has her ermine furs, and a very handsome set of jewels for her +head. 'Tis true, they have no places but the bagnios, and these can +only be seen by their own sex; however, that is a diversion they take +great pleasure in. + +I WAS, three days ago, at one of the finest in the town, and had the +opportunity of seeing a Turkish bride received there, and all the +ceremony used on that occasion, which made me recollect the +epithalamium of Helen, by Theocritus; and it seems to me, that the +same customs have continued ever since. All the she-friends, +relations and acquaintance of the two families, newly allied, meet at +the bagnio; several others go, out Of curiosity, and I believe there +were that day two hundred women. Those that were, or had been +married, placed themselves round the rooms, on the marble sofas; but +the virgins very hastily threw off their clothes, and appeared +without other ornament or covering, than their own long hair braided +with pearl or ribbon. Two of them met the bride at the door, +conducted by her mother and another grave relation. She was a +beautiful maid of about seventeen, very richly dressed, and shining +with jewels, but was presently reduced to the state of nature. Two +others filled silver gilt pots with perfume, and began the +procession, the rest following in pairs, to the number of thirty. +The leaders sung an epithalamium, answered by the others in chorus, +and the two last led the fair bride, her eyes fixed on the ground, +with a charming affectation of modesty. In this order they marched +round the three largest rooms of the bagnio. 'Tis not easy to +represent to you the beauty of this sight, most of them being well +proportioned and white skinned; all of them perfectly smooth and +polished by the frequent use of bathing. After having made their +tour, the bride was again led to every matron round the rooms, who +saluted her with a compliment and a present, some of jewels, others +of pieces of stuff, handkerchiefs or little gallantries of that +nature, which she thanked them for, by kissing their hands. I was +very well pleased with having seen this ceremony; and you may believe +me, the Turkish ladies have, at least, as much wit and civility, nay +liberty, as among us. 'Tis true, the same customs that give them so +many opportunities of gratifying their evil inclinations (if they +have any), also put it very fully in the power of their husbands to +revenge themselves, if they are discovered; and I do not doubt, but +they suffer sometimes for their indiscretions in a very severe +manner. About two months ago, there was found at day break, not very +far from my house, the bleeding body of a young woman, naked, only +wrapped in a course sheet, with two wounds of a knife, one in her +side, and another in her breast. She was not quite cold, and was so +surprisingly beautiful, that there were very few men in Pera, that +did not go to look upon her; but it was not possible for any body to +know her, no woman's face being known. She was supposed to have been +brought, in the dead of the night, from the Constantinople side, and +laid there. Very little inquiry was made about the murderer, and the +corpse was privately buried without noise. Murder is never pursued +by the king's officers, as with us. 'Tis the business of the next +relations to revenge the dead person; and if they like better to +compound the matter for money (as they generally do) there is no more +said of it. One would imagine this defect in their government should +make such tragedies very frequent, yet they are extremely rare; which +is enough to prove the people are not naturally cruel. Neither do I +think, in many other particulars, they deserve the barbarous +character we give them. I am well acquainted with a Christian woman +of quality, who made it her choice to live with a Turkish husband, +and is a very agreeable sensible lady. Her story is so +extraordinary, I cannot forbear relating it; but I promise you, it +shall be in as few words as I can possibly express it. + +SHE is a Spaniard, and was at Naples with her family, When that +kingdom was part of the Spanish dominion. Coming from thence in a +felucca, accompanied by her brother, they were attacked by the +Turkish admiral, boarded and taken.--And now how shall I modestly +tell you the rest of her adventure? The same accident happened to +her, that happened to the fair Lucretia so many years before her. +But she was too good a Christian to kill herself, as that heathenish +Roman did. The admiral was so much charmed with the beauty and +long-suffering of the fair captive, that, as his first compliment, he +gave immediate liberty to her brother and attendants, who made haste +to Spain, and, in a few months, sent the sum of four thousand pounds +sterling, as a ransom for his sister. The Turk took the money, which +he presented to her, and told her she was at liberty. But the lady +very discreetly weighed the different treatment she was likely to +find in her native country. Her relations (as the kindest thing they +could do for her in her present circumstances) would certainly +confine her to a nunnery for the rest of her days.--Her infidel +lover was very handsome, very tender, very fond of her, and lavished +at her feet all the Turkish magnificence. She answered him very +resolutely, that her liberty was not so precious to her as her +honour; that he could no way restore that, but by marrying her; and +she therefore desired him to accept the ransom as her portion, and +give her the satisfaction of knowing, that no man could boast of her +favours, without being her husband. The admiral was transported at +this kind offer, and sent back the money to her relations, saying, he +was too happy in her possession. He married her, and never took any +other wife, and (as she says herself) she never had reason to repent +the choice she made. He left her, some years after, one of the +richest widows in Constantinople. But there is no remaining +honourably a single woman, and that consideration has obliged her to +marry the present captain bassa (i.e. admiral) his successor.--I am +afraid that you will think my friend fell in love with her ravisher; +but I am willing to take her word for it, that she acted wholly on +principles of honour, though I think she might be reasonably touched +at his generosity, which is often found amongst the Turks of rank. + +'TIS a degree of generosity to tell the truth, and 'tis very rare +that any Turk will assert a solemn falsehood. I don't speak of the +lowest sort; for as there is a great deal of ignorance, there is very +little virtue amongst them; and false witnesses are much cheaper than +in Christendom; those wretches not being punished (even when they are +publicly detected) with the rigour they ought to be. + +NOW I am speaking of their law, I don't know whether I have ever +mentioned to you one custom peculiar to their country, I mean +_adoption_, very common amongst the Turks, and yet more amongst the +Greeks and Armenians. Not having it in their power to give their +estates to a friend or distant relation; to avoid its falling into +the grand signior's treasury, when they are not likely to have any +children of their own, they chuse some pretty child of either sex, +amongst the meanest people, and carry the child and its parents +before the cadi, and there declare they receive it for their heir. +The parents, at the same time, renounce all future claim to it; a +writing is drawn and witnessed, and a child thus adopted, cannot be +disinherited. Yet I have seen some common beggars, that have refused +to part with their children in this manner, to some of the richest +among the Greeks; (so powerful is the instinctive affection that is +natural to parents!) though the adopting fathers are generally very +tender to these _children of their souls_, as they call them. I own +this custom pleases me much better than our absurd one of following +our name. Methinks, 'tis much more reasonable to make happy and +rich an infant whom I educate after my own manner, _brought up_ (in +the Turkish phrase) _upon my knees_, and who has learned to look upon +me with a filial respect, than to give an estate to a creature, +without other merit or relation to me, than that of a few letters. +Yet this is an absurdity we see frequently practised.--Now I have +mentioned the Armenians, perhaps it will be agreeable to tell you +something of that nation, with which I am sure you are utterly +unacquainted. I will not trouble you with the geographical account +of the situation of their country, which you may see in the maps; or +a relation of their ancient greatness, which you may read in the +Roman history. They are now subject to the Turks; and, being very +industrious in trade, and increasing and multiplying, are dispersed +in great numbers through all the Turkish dominions. They were, as +they say, converted to the Christian religion by St Gregory, and are +perhaps the devoutest (sic), Christians in the whole world. The +chief precepts of their priests enjoin the strict keeping of their +lents, which are, at least seven months in every year, and are not to +be dispensed with on the most emergent necessity; no occasion +whatever can excuse them, if they touch any thing more than mere +herbs or roots (without oil) and plain dry bread. That is their +constant diet.--Mr W----y has one of his interpreters of this nation, +and the poor fellow was brought so low, by the severity of his fasts, +that his life was despaired of. Yet neither his master's commands, +nor the doctor's entreaties (who declared nothing else could save his +life) were powerful enough to prevail with him to take two or three +spoonfuls of broth. Excepting this, which may rather be called a +custom than an article of faith, I see very little in their religion +different from ours. 'Tis true, they seem to incline very much to Mr +Whiston's doctrine; neither do I think the Greek church very distant +from it, since 'tis certain, the holy Spirit's proceeding _only_ from +the Father, is making a plain subordination in the Son.--But the +Armenians have no notion of transubstantiation, whatever account Sir +Paul Rycaut gives of them, (which account, I am apt to believe, was +designed to compliment our Court in 1679;) and they have a great +horror for those amongst them, that change to the Roman religion. +What is most extraordinary in their customs, is their matrimony; a +ceremony, I believe, unparallell'd (sic) all over the world. They +are always promised very young; but the espoused never see one +another, till three days after their marriage. The bride is carried +to church, with a cap on her head, in the fashion of a large +trencher, and over it a red silken veil, which covers her all over to +her feet. The priest asks the bridegroom, Whether he is contented to +marry that woman, _be she deaf, be she blind?_ These are the literal +words: to which having answered, _yes_, she is led home to his house, +accompanied with all the friends and relations on both sides, singing +and dancing, and is placed on a cushion in the corner of the sofa; +but her veil is never lifted up, not even by her husband. There is +something so odd and monstrous in these ways, that I could not +believe them, till I had inquired of several Armenians myself, who +all assured me of the truth of them, particularly one young fellow, +who wept when he spoke of it, being promised by his mother to a girl +that he must marry in this manner, though he protested to me, he had +rather die than submit to this slavery, having already figured his +bride to himself with all the deformities of nature.--I fancy I see +you bless yourself at this terrible relation. I cannot conclude my +letter with a more surprising story; yet 'tis as seriously true, as +that I am, Dear sister, yours, &c. &c. + +LET. XLIII + +TO THE ABBOT OF ----. + +_Constantinople, May_ 19. O. S. 1718. + +I AM extremely pleased with hearing from you, and my vanity (the +darling frailty of mankind) not a little flattered by the uncommon +questions you ask me, though I am utterly incapable of answering +them. And, indeed, were I as good a mathematician as Euclid himself, +it requires an age's stay to make just observations on the air and +vapours. I have not been yet a full year here, and am on the point +of removing. Such is my rambling destiny. This will surprise you, +and can surprise no body so much as myself. Perhaps you will accuse +me of laziness, or dulness (sic), or both together, that can leave +this place, without giving you some account of the Turkish court. I +can only tell you, that if you please to read Sir Paul Rycaut, you +will there find a full and true account of the vizier's, the +_beglerbys_, the civil and spiritual government, the officers of the +seraglio, &c. things that 'tis very easy to procure lists of, and +therefore may be depended on; though other stories, God knows--I say +no more--every body is at liberty to write their own remarks; the +manners of people may change; or some of them escape the observation +of travellers; but 'tis not the same of the government; and, for that +reason, since I can tell you nothing new, I will tell you nothing of +it. In the same silence shall be passed over the arsenal and seven +towers; and for mosques, I have already described one of the noblest +to you very particularly. But I cannot forbear taking notice to you +of a mistake of Gemelli, (though I honour him in a much higher degree +than any other voyage-writer:) he says that there are no remains of +Calcedon; this is certainly a mistake: I was there, yesterday, and +went cross the canal in my galley, the sea being very narrow between +that city and Constantinople. 'Tis still a large town, and has +several mosques in it. The Christians still call it Calcedonia, and +the Turks give it a name I forgot, but which is only a corruption of +the same word. I suppose this is an error of his guide, which his +short stay hindered him from rectifying, for I have, in other +matters, a very just esteem for his veracity. Nothing can be +pleasanter than the canal; and the Turks are so well acquainted with +its beauties, that all their pleasure-seats are built on its banks, +where they have, at the same time, the most beautiful prospects in +Europe and Asia; there are near one another some hundreds of +magnificent palaces. Human grandeur being here yet more unstable +than any where else, 'tis common for the heirs of a great +three-tailed bassa, not to be rich enough to keep in repair the house +he built; thus, in a few years, they all fall to ruin. I was +yesterday to see that of the late grand Vizier, who was killed at +Peterwaradin. It was built to receive his royal bride, daughter of +the present sultan; but he did not live to see her there. I have a +great mind to describe it to you; but I check that inclination, +knowing very well, that I cannot give you, with my best description, +such an idea of it as I ought. It is situated on one of the most +delightful parts of the canal, with a fine wood on the side of a hill +behind it. The extent of it is prodigious; the guardian assured me, +there are eight hundred rooms in it; I will not, however, answer for +that number, since I did not count them; but 'tis certain the number +is very large, and the whole adorned with a profusion of marble, +gilding, and the most exquisite painting of fruit and flowers. The +windows are all sashed with the finest crystalline glass brought from +England; and here is all the expensive magnificence that you can +suppose in a palace founded by a vain luxurious young man, with the +wealth of a vast empire at his command. But no part of it pleased me +better than the apartments destined for the bagnios. There are two +built exactly in the same manner, answering to one another; the +baths, fountains, and pavements, all of white marble, the roofs gilt, +and the walls covered with Japan china. Adjoining to them are two +rooms, the uppermost of which is divided into a sofa, and in the four +corners are falls of water from the very roof, from shell to shell, +of white marble, to the lower end of the room, where it falls into a +large basin, surrounded with pipes, that throw up the water as high +as the roof. The walls are in the nature of lattices; and, on the +outside of them, there are vines and woodbines planted, that form a +sort of green tapestry, and give an agreeable obscurity to those +delightful chambers. I should go on and let you into some of the +other apartments (all worthy your curiosity); but 'tis yet harder to +describe a Turkish palace than any other, being built entirely +irregular. There is nothing that can be properly called front or +wings; and though such a confusion is, I think, pleasing to the +sight, yet it would be very unintelligible in a letter. I shall only +add, that the chamber destined for the sultan, when he visits his +daughter, is wainscotted with mother of pearl, fastened with emeralds +like nails. There are others of mother of pearl and olive wood +inlaid, and several of Japan china. The galleries, which are +numerous, and very large, are adorned with jars of flowers, and +porcelain dishes of fruit of all sorts, so well done in plaster, and +coloured in so lively a manner, that it has an enchanting effect. +The garden is suitable to the house, where arbours, fountains, and +walks, are thrown together in an agreeable confusion. There is no +ornament wanting, except that of statues. Thus, you see, Sir, these +people are not so unpolished as we represent them. 'Tis true, their +magnificence is of a very different taste from ours, and perhaps of +a better. I am almost of opinion, they have a right notion of life. +They consume it in music, gardens, wine, and delicate eating, while +we are tormenting our brains with some scheme of politics, or +studying some science to which we can never attain; or, if we do, +cannot persuade other people to set that value upon it we do +ourselves. 'Tis certain, what we feel and see is properly (if any +thing is properly) our own; but the good of fame, the folly of +praise, are hardly purchased, and, when obtained, a poor recompence +(sic) for loss of time and health. We die or grow old before we can +reap the fruit of our labours. Considering what short-liv'd, weak +animals men are, is there any study so beneficial as the study of +present pleasure? I dare not pursue this theme; perhaps I have +already said too much, but I depend upon the true knowledge you have +of my heart. I don't expect from you the insipid railleries I should +suffer from another in answer to this letter. You know how to divide +the idea of pleasure from that of vice, and they are only mingled in +the heads of fools.--But I allow you to laugh at me for the sensual +declaration in saying, that I had rather be a rich _effendi_, with +all his ignorance, than Sir Isaac Newton with all his knowledge. + I am, Sir, &c. &c. + +LET. XLIV. + +TO THE ABBOT OF ----. + +_Tunis, July_ 31. O. S. 1718 + +I LEFT Constantinople the sixth of the last month, and this is the +first post from whence I could send a letter, though I have often +wished for the opportunity, that I might impart some of the pleasure +I found in this voyage, through the most agreeable part of the world, +where every scene presents me some poetical idea, + + _Warm'd with poetic transport I survey + Th' immortal islands, and the well known sea. + For here so oft the muse her harp has strung, + That not a mountain rears its head unsung_. + +I BEG your pardon for this sally, and will, if I can, continue the +rest of my account in plain prose. The second day after we set sail, +we passed Gallipolis, a fair city, situated in the bay of +Chersonesus, and much respected by the Turks, being the first town +they took in Europe. At five the next morning, we anchored in the +Hellespont, between the castles of Sestos and Abydos, now called the +Dardanelli. These are now two little ancient castles, but of no +strength, being commanded by a rising ground behind them, which, I +confess, I should never have taken notice of, if I had not heard it +observed by our captain and officers, my imagination being wholly +employed by the tragic story, that you are well acquainted with: + + _The swimming lover, and the nightly bride, + How HERO lov'd, and how LEANDER died_. + +Verse again!--I am certainly infected by the poetical air I have +passed through. That of Abydos is undoubtedly very amorous, since +that soft passion betrayed the castle into the hands of the Turks who +besieged it in the reign of Orchanes. The governor's daughter, +imagining to have seen her future husband in a dream, (though I don't +find she had either slept upon bride-cake, or kept St Agnes's fast) +fancied she saw the dear figure in the form of one of her besiegers; +and, being willing to obey her destiny, tossed a note to him over the +wall, with the offer of her person, and the delivery of the castle. +He shewed it to his general, who consented to try the sincerity of +her intentions, and withdrew his army, ordering the young man to +return with a select body of men at midnight. She admitted him at +the appointed hour; he destroyed the garrison, took the father +prisoner, and made her his wife. This town is in Asia, first founded +by the Milesians. Sestos is in Europe, and was once the principal +city of Chersonesus. Since I have seen this strait, I find nothing +improbable in the adventure of Leander, or very wonderful in the +bridge of boats of Xerxes. 'Tis so narrow, 'tis not surprising a +young lover should attempt to swim, or an ambitious king try to pass +his army over it. But then, 'tis so subject to storms, 'tis no +wonder the lover perished, and the bridge was broken. From hence we +had a full view of mount Ida; + + _Where Juno once caress'd her am'rous Jove, + And the world's master lay subdu'd by love_. + +Not many leagues sail from hence, I saw the point of land where poor +old Hecuba was buried, and about a league from that place is Cape +Janizary, the famous promontory of Sigaeum, where we anchored. My +curiosity supplied me with strength to climb to the top of it, to see +the place where Achilles was buried, and where Alexander ran naked +round his tomb, in honour of him, which, no doubt, was a great +comfort to his ghost. I saw there the ruins of a very large city, +and found a stone, on which Mr W----y plainly distinguished the words +of _Sigaen Polin_. We ordered this on board the ship; but were +shewed others much more curious by a Greek priest, tho' a very +ignorant fellow, that could give no tolerable account of any thing. +On each side the door of this little church ly two large stones, +about ten feet long each, five in breadth, and three in thickness. +That on the right is a very fine white marble, the side of it +beautifully carved in bas-relief; it represents a woman, who seems to +be designed for some deity, sitting on a chair with a footstool, and +before her another woman, weeping, and presenting to her a young +child that she has in her arms, followed by a procession of women +with children in the same manner. This is certainly part of a very +ancient tomb; but I dare not pretend to give the true explanation of +it. On the stone, on the left side, is a very fair inscription; but +the Greek is too ancient for Mr W----y's interpretation. I am very +sorry not to have the original in my possession, which might have +been purchased of the poor inhabitants for a small sum of money. But +our captain assured us, that without having machines made on purpose, +'twas impossible to bear it to the sea-side; and, when it was there, +his long-boat would not be large enough to hold it. + +THE ruins of this great city are now inhabited by poor Greek +peasants, who wear the Sciote habit, the women being in short +petticoats, fastened by straps round their shoulders, and large smock +sleeves of white linen, with neat shoes and stockings, and on their +heads a large piece of muslin, which falls in large folds on their +shoulders.--One of my countrymen, Mr Sands, (whose book I doubt not +you have read, as one of the best of its kind) speaking of these +ruins, supposes them to have been the foundation of a city begun by +Constantine, before his building Byzantium; but I see no good reason +for that imagination, and am apt to believe them much more ancient. + +WE saw very plainly from this promontory, the river Simois rolling +from mount Ida, and running through a very spacious valley. It is +now a considerable river, and is called Simores, it is joined in the +vale by the Scamander, which appeared a small stream half choaked +(sic) with mud, but is perhaps large in the winter. This was Xanthus +amongst the gods, as Homer tells us; and 'tis by that heavenly name, +the nymph Oenone invokes it, in her epistle to Paris. The Trojan +virgins used to offer their first favours to it, by the name of +Scamander, till the adventure, which Monsieur de la Fontaine has told +so agreeably, abolish'd that heathenish ceremony. When the stream is +mingled with the Simois, they run together to the sea. + +ALL that is now left of Troy is the ground on which it stood; for, I +am firmly persuaded, whatever pieces of antiquity may be found round +it, are much more modern, and I think Strabo says the same thing. +However, there is some pleasure in seeing the valley where I imagined +the famous duel of Menelaus and Paris had been fought, and where the +greatest city in the world was situated. 'Tis certainly the noblest +situation that can be found for the head of a great empire, much to +be preferred to that of Constantinople, the harbour here being always +convenient for ships from all parts of the world, and that of +Constantinople inaccessible almost six months in the year, while the +north-wind reigns. + +NORTH of the promontory of Sigaeum we saw that of Rhaeteum, famed for +the sepulchre of Ajax. While I viewed these celebrated fields and +rivers, I admired the exact geography of Homer, whom I had in my +hand. Almost every epithet he gives to a mountain or plain, is still +just for it; and I spent several hours here in as agreeable +cogitations, as ever Don Quixote had on mount Montesinos. We sailed +next night to the shore, where 'tis vulgarly reported Troy stood; and +I took the pains of rising at two in the morning to view cooly those +ruins which are commonly shewed to strangers, and which the Turks +call _Eski Stamboul, i.e._ Old Constantinople. For that reason, as +well as some others, I conjecture them to be the remains of that city +begun by Constantine. I hired an ass (the only voiture to be had +there) that I might go some miles into the country, and take a tour +round the ancient walls, which are of a vast extent. We found the +remains of a castle on a hill, and of another in a valley, several +broken pillars and two pedestals, from which I took these Latin +inscriptions: + + DIVI. AUG. COL. + ET. COL. IUL. PHILIPPENSIS + EORUNDEM ET PRINCIP. AM + COL. IUL. PARIANAE. TRIBUN. + MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTAR. + TRIB. MILIT. LEG. XIII. GEM. + PRAEFECTO EQUIT. ALAE. I. + SCUBULORUM + VIC. VIII. + + DIVI. IULI. FLAMINI + C. ANTONIO. M. F. + VOLT. RUFO. FLAMIN. + DIV. AUG. COL. CL. APRENS. + ET. COL. IUL. PHILIPPENSIS + EORUNDEM ET PRINCIP. ITEM + COL. IUL. PARIANAE TRIB. + MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTARIOR. + TRIB. MILIT. XIII. + GEM. PRAEF. EQUIT. ALAE. I. + SCUBULORUM + VIC. VII. + +I do not doubt but the remains of a temple near this place, are the +ruins of one dedicated to Augustus; and I know not why Mr Sands calls +it a Christian temple, since the Romans certainly built hereabouts. +Here are many tombs of fine marble, and vast pieces of granate (sic), +which are daily lessened by the prodigious balls that the Turks make, +from them, for their cannon. We passed that evening the isle of +Tenedos, once under the patronage of Apollo, as he gave it in, +himself, in the particulars of his estate, when he courted Daphne. +It is but ten miles in circuit, but, in those days, very rich and +well-peopled, still famous for its excellent wine. I say nothing of +Tenes, from whom it was called; but naming Mytilene, where we passed +next, I cannot forbear mentioning Lesbos, where Sappho sung, and +Pittacus reigned, famous for the birth of Alcaeus, Theophrastus and +Arion, those masters in poetry, philosophy, and music. This was one +of the last islands that remained in the Christian dominion after the +conquest of Constantinople by the Turks. But need I talk to you of +Catucuseno, &c. princes that you are as well acquainted with as I am. +'Twas with regret I saw us sail from this island into the Egean (sic) +sea, now the Archipelago, leaving Scio (the ancient Chios) on the +left, which is the richest and most populous of these islands, +fruitful in cotton, corn and silk, planted with groves of orange and +lemon trees, and the Arvisian mountain, still celebrated for the +nectar that Virgil mentions. Here is the best manufacture of silks +in all Turkey. The town is well built, the women famous for their +beauty, and shew their faces as in Christendom. There are many rich +families; though they confine their magnificence to the inside of +their houses, to avoid the jealousy of the Turks, who have, a bassa +here: however, they enjoy a reasonable liberty, and indulge the +genius of their country: + + _And eat, and sing, and dance away their time, + Fresh as their groves, and happy as their clime_. + +Their chains hang lightly on them, tho' 'tis not long since they were +imposed, not being under the Turk till 1566. But perhaps 'tis as +easy to obey the grand signior as the state of Genoa, to whom they +were sold by the Greek emperor. But I forget myself in these +historical touches, which are very impertinent when I write to you. +Passing the strait between the islands of Andros and Achaia, now +Libadia, we saw the promontory of Lunium, now called Cape Colonna, +where are yet standing the vast pillars of a temple of Minerva. This +venerable sight made me think, with double regret, on a beautiful +temple of Theseus, which, I am assured, was almost entire at Athens, +till the last campaign in the Morea, that the Turks filled it with +powder, and it was accidentally blown up. You may believe I had a +great mind to land on the fam'd Peloponnesus, tho' it were only to +look on the rivers of Asopus, Peneus, Inachus and Eurotas, the fields +of Arcadia, and other scenes of ancient mythology. But instead of +demigods and heroes, I was credibly informed, 'tis now over-run by +robbers, and that I should run a great risque (sic) of falling into +their hands, by undertaking such a journey through a desert country, +for which, however, I have so much respect, that I have much ado to +hinder myself from troubling you with its whole history, from the +foundation of Nycana and Corinth, to the last campaign there; but I +check the inclination, as I did that of landing. We sailed quietly +by Cape Angelo, once Malea, where I saw no remains of the famous +temple of Apollo. We came that evening in sight of Candia: it is +very mountainous; we easily distinguished that of Ida.--We have +Virgil's authority, that here were a hundred cities-- + + _--Centum urbes habitant magnas--_ + +The chief of them--the scene of monstrous passions.--Metellus first +conquered this birth-place of his Jupiter; it fell afterwards into +the hands of ---- I am running on to the very siege of Candia; and I +am so angry with myself, that I will pass by all the other islands +with this general reflection, that 'tis impossible to imagine any +thing more agreeable than this journey would have been two or three +thousand years since, when, after drinking a dish of tea with Sappho, +I might have gone, the same evening, to visit the temple of Homer in +Chios, and passed this voyage in taking plans of magnificent temples, +delineating the miracles of statuaries, and conversing with the most +polite and most gay of mankind. Alas! art is extinct here; the +wonders of nature alone remain; and it was with vast pleasure I +observed those of mount Etna, whose flame appears very bright in the +night many leagues off at sea, and fills the head with a thousand +conjectures. However, I honour philosophy too much, to imagine it +could turn that of Empedocles; and Lucian shall never make me believe +such a scandal of a man, of whom, Lucretius says, + + _--Vix humana videtur stirpe creatus--_ + +WE passed Trinacria without hearing any of the syrens that Homer +describes; and, being thrown on neither Scylla nor Charybdis, came +safe to Malta, first called Melita, from the abundance of honey. It +is a whole rock covered with very little earth. The grand master +lives here in the state of a sovereign prince; but his strength at +sea now is very small. The fortifications are reckoned the best in +the world, all cut in the solid rock with infinite expence and +labour.--Off this island we were tossed by a severe storm, and were +very glad, after eight days, to be able to put into Porta Farine on +the African shore, where our ship now rides. At Tunis we were met by +the English consul who resides here. I readily accepted of the offer +of his house there for some days, being very curious to see this part +of the world, and particularly the ruins of Carthage. I set out in +his chaise at nine at night, the moon being at full. I saw the +prospect of the country almost as well as I could have done by +day-light; and the heat of the sun is now so intolerable, 'tis +impossible to travel at any other time. The soil is, for the most +part, sandy, but every where fruitful of date, olive, and fig-trees, +which grow without art, yet afford the most delicious fruit in the +world. There vineyards and melon-fields are inclos'd by hedges of +that plant we call Indian-fig, which is an admirable fence, no wild +beast being able to pass it. It grows a great height, very thick, +and the spikes or thorns are as long and sharp as bodkins; it bears a +fruit much eaten by the peasants, and which has no ill taste. + +IT being now the season of the Turkish _ramadan_, or Lent, and all +here professing, at least the Mahometan religion, they fast till the +going down of the sun, and spend the night in feasting. We saw under +the trees, companies of the country people, eating, singing, and +dancing, to their wild music. They are not quite black, but all +mulattoes, and the most frightful creatures that can appear in a +human figure. They are almost naked, only wearing a piece of coarse +serge wrapped about them.--But the women have their arms, to their +very shoulders, and their necks and faces, adorned with flowers, +stars, and various sorts of figures impressed by gunpowder; a +considerable addition to their natural deformity; which is, however, +esteemed very ornamental amongst them; and I believe they suffer a +good deal of pain by it. + +ABOUT six miles from Tunis, we saw the remains of that noble +aqueduct, which carried the water to Carthage, over several high +mountains, the length of forty miles. There are still many arches +entire. We spent two hours viewing it with great attention, and Mr +W----y assured me that of Rome is very much inferior to it. The +stones are of a prodigious size, and yet all polished, and so exactly +fitted to each other, very little cement has been made use of to join +them. Yet they may probably stand a thousand years longer, if art is +not made use of to pull them down. Soon after day-break I arrived at +Tunis, a town fairly built of very white stone, but quite without +gardens, which, they say, were all destroyed when the Turks first +took it, none having been planted since. The dry land gives a very +disagreeable prospect to the eye; and the want of shade contributing +to the natural heat of the climate, renders it so excessive, that I +have much ado to support it. 'Tis true, here is, every noon, the +refreshment of the sea-breeze, without which it would be impossible +to live; but no fresh water but what is preserved in the cisterns of +the rains that fall in the month of September. The women of the town +go veiled from head to foot under a black crape, and being mixed with +a breed of renegadoes, are said to be many of them fair and handsome. +This city was besieged in 1270, by Lewis (sic) king of France, who +died under the walls of it, of a pestilential fever. After his +death, Philip, his son, and our prince Edward, son of Henry III. +raised the siege on honourable terms. It remained under its natural +African kings, till betrayed into the hands of Barbarossa, admiral of +Solyman the Magnificent. The emperor Charles V. expelled Barbarossa, +but it was recovered by the Turk, under the conduct of Sinan Bassa, +in the reign of Selim II. From that time till now, it has remained +tributary to the grand signior, governed by a _bey_, who suffers the +name of subject to the Turk, but has renounced the subjection, being +absolute, and very seldom paying any tribute. The great city of +Bagdat (sic) is, at this time, in the same circumstances, and the +grand signior connives at the loss of these dominions, for fear of +losing even the titles of them. + +I WENT very early yesterday morning (after one night's repose) to see +the ruins of Carthage.--I was, however, half broiled in the sun, and +overjoyed to be led into one of the subterranean apartments, which +they called, _The stables of the elephants_, but which I cannot +believe were ever designed for that use. I found in them many broken +pieces of columns of fine marble, and some of porphyry. I cannot +think any body would take the insignificant pains of carrying them +thither, and I cannot imagine such fine pillars were designed for the +use of stables. I am apt to believe they Were summer apartments +under their palaces, which the heat of the climate rendered +necessary. They are now used as granaries by the country people. +While I sat here, from the town of _Tents_ not far off, many of the +women flocked in to see me, and we were equally entertained with +viewing one another. Their posture in sitting, the colour of their +skin, their lank black hair falling on each side their faces, their +features, and the shape of their limbs, differ so little from their +country-people the baboons, 'tis hard to fancy them a distinct race; +I could not help thinking there had been some ancient alliances +between them. + +WHEN I was a little refreshed by rest, and some milk and exquisite +fruit they brought me, I went up the little hill where once stood the +castle of Byrsa, and from thence I had a distinct view of the +situation of the famous city of Carthage, which stood on an isthmus, +the sea coming on each side of it. 'Tis now a marshy ground on one +side, where there are salt ponds. Strabo calls Carthage forty miles +in circumference. There are now no remains of it, but what I have +described; and the history of it is too well known to want my +abridgement of it. You see, Sir, that I think you esteem obedience +better than compliments. I have answered your letter by giving you +the accounts you desired, and have reserved my thanks to the +conclusion. I intend to leave this place to-morrow, and continue my +journey through Italy and France. In one of those places I hope to +tell you, by word of mouth, that I am, Your humble servant, &c. &c. + +LET. XLV + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Genoa, Aug_. 28. O. S. 1718 + +I BEG your pardon, my dear sister, that I did not write to you from +Tunis, the only opportunity I have had since I left Constantinople. +But the heat there was so excessive, and the light so bad for the +sight, I was half blind by writing one letter to the Abbot ----, and +durst not go to write many others I had designed; nor indeed could I +have entertained you very well out of that barbarous country. I am +now surrounded with subjects of pleasure, and so much charmed with +the beauties of Italy, that I should think it a kind of ingratitude +not to offer a little praise in return for the diversion I have had +here.--I am in the house of Mrs D'Avenant at St Pierre d'Arena, and +should be very unjust not to allow her a share of that praise I speak +of, since her good humour and good company have very much contributed +to render this place agreeable to me. + +GENOA is situated in a very fine bay; and being built on a rising +hill, extermixed (sic) with gardens, and beautified with the most +excellent architecture, gives a very fine prospect off at sea; though +it lost much of its beauty in my eyes, having been accustomed to that +of Constantinople. The Genoese were once masters of several islands +in the Archipelago, and all that part of Constantinople which is now +called Galata. Their betraying the Christian cause, by facilitating +the taking of Constantinople by the Turk, deserved what has since +happened to them, even the loss of all their conquests on that side +to those infidels. They are at present far from rich, and are +despised by the French, since their doge was forced by the late king +to go in person to Paris, to ask pardon for such a trifle as the arms +of France over the house of the envoy, being spattered with dung in +the night. This, I suppose, was done by some of the Spanish faction, +which still makes up the majority here, though they dare not openly +declare it. The ladies affect the French habit, and are more genteel +than those they imitate. I do not doubt but the custom of Cizisbei's +has very much improved their airs. I know not whether you ever heard +of those animals. Upon my word, nothing but my own eyes could have +convinced me there were any such upon earth. The fashion began here, +and is now received all over Italy, where the husbands are not such +terrible creatures as we represent them. There are none among them +such brutes, as to pretend to find fault with a custom so well +established, and so politically founded, since I am assured, that it +was an expedient, first found out by the senate, to put an end to +those family hatreds, which tore their state to pieces, and to find +employment for those young men who were forced to cut one another's +throats, _pour passer le temps_: and it has succeeded so well, that +since the institution of Cizisbei, there has been nothing but peace +and good humour amongst them. These are gentlemen who devote +themselves to the service of a particular lady (I mean a married one) +for the virgins are all invisible, and confined to convents: They are +obliged to wait on her to all public places, such as the plays, +operas, and assemblies, (which are called here _Conversations_) where +they wait behind her chair, take care of her fan and gloves, if she +plays, have the privilege of whispers, &c.--When she goes out, they +serve her instead of lacquies (sic), gravely trotting by her chair. +'Tis their business to prepare for her a present against any day of +public appearance, not forgetting that of her own name [Footnote: +That is, the day of the saint after whom she is called.]; in short, +they are to spend all their time and money in her service, who +rewards them accordingly (for opportunity they want none) but the +husband is not to have the impudence to suppose this any other than +pure Platonic friendship. 'Tis true, they endeavour to give her a +Cizisbei of their own chusing; but when the lady happens not to be of +the same taste, as that often happens, she never fails to bring it +about to have one of her own fancy. In former times, one beauty used +to have eight or ten of these humble admirers; but those days of +plenty and humility are no more. Men grow more scarce and saucy, and +every lady is forced to content herself with one at a time. + +You may see in this place the _glorious liberty_ of a republic, or +more properly, an aristocracy, the common people being here as arrant +slaves as the French; but the old nobles pay little respect to the +doge, who is but two years in his office, and whose wife, at that +very time, assumes no rank above another noble lady. 'Tis true, the +family of Andrea Doria (that great man, who restored them that +liberty they enjoy) have some particular privileges. When the senate +found it necessary to put a stop to the luxury of dress, forbidding +the wearing of jewels and brocades, they left them at liberty to make +what expence they pleased. I look with great pleasure on the statue +of that hero, which is in the court belonging to the house of duke +Doria. This puts me in mind of their palaces, which I can never +describe as I ought.--Is it not enough, that I say, they are, most +of them, the design of Palladio? The street called Strada Nova, is +perhaps the most beautiful line of building in the world. I must +particularly mention the vast palaces of Durazzo, those of the two +Balbi, joined together by a magnificent colonade (sic), that of the +Imperiale at this village of St Pierre d'Arena, and another of the +Doria. The perfection of architecture, and the utmost profusion of +rich furniture are to be seen here, disposed with the most elegant +taste, and lavish magnificence. But I am charmed with nothing so +much as the collection of pictures by the pencils of Raphael, Paulo +Veronese, Titian, Caracci, Michael Angelo, Guido, and Corregio, which +two I mention last as my particular favourites. I own, I can find no +pleasure in objects of horror; and, in my opinion, the more naturally +a crucifix is represented, the more disagreeable it is. These, my +beloved painters, shew nature, and shew it in the most charming +light. I was particularly pleased with a Lucretia in the house of +Balbi; the expressive beauty of that face and bosom, gives all the +passion of pity and adoration, that could be raised in the soul, by +the finest artist on that subject. A Cleopatra of the same hand, +deserves to be mentioned; and I should say more of her if Lucretia +had not first engaged my eyes.--Here are also some inestimable +ancient bustos (sic).--The church of St Lawrence is built of black +and white marble, where is kept that famous plate of a single +emerald, which is not now permitted to be handled, since a plot, +which, they say, was discovered, to throw it on the pavement and +break it; a childish piece of malice, which they ascribe to the king +of Sicily, to be revenged for their refusing to sell it to him. The +church of the annunciation is finely lined with marble; the pillars +are of red and white marble; that of St Ambrose has been very much +adorned by the Jesuits; but I confess, all the churches appeared so +mean to me, after that of Sancta Sophia, I can hardly do them the +honour of writing down their names. But I hope you will own, I have +made good use of my time, in seeing so much, since 'tis not many days +that we have been out of the quarantine, from which no body is +exempted coming from the Levant. Ours, indeed, was very much +shortened, and very agreeably passed in Mrs D'Avenant's company, in +the village of St Pierre d'Arena, about a mile from Genoa, in a house +built by Palladio, so well designed, and so nobly proportioned, 'twas +a pleasure to walk in it. We were visited here only by a few +English, in the company of a noble Genoese; commissioned to see we +did not touch one another.--I shall stay here some days longer, and +could almost wish it were for all my life; but mine, I fear, is not +destined to so much tranquillity. I am, &c. &c. + +LET. XLVI. + +TO THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Turin, Sept_. 12. O. S. 1718. + +I CAME in two days from Genoa, through fine roads, to this place. I +have already seen what is shewed to strangers in the town, which, +indeed, is not worth a very particular description; and I have not +respect enough for the holy handkerchief, to speak long of it. The +churches are handsome, and so is the king's palace; but I have lately +seen such perfection of architecture, I did not give much of my +attention to these pieces. The town itself is fairly built, situated +in a fine plain on the banks of the Po. At a little distance from +it, we saw the palaces of La Venerie, and La Valentin, both very +agreeable retreats. We were lodged in the Piazza Royale, which is +one of the noblest squares I ever saw, with a fine portico of white +stone quite round it. We were immediately visited by the +Chevalier ----, whom you knew in England; who, with great civility, +begged to introduce us at Court, which is now kept at Rivoli, about a +league from Turin. I went thither yesterday, and had the honour of +waiting on the queen, being presented to her by her first lady of +honour. I found her majesty in a magnificent apartment, with a train +of handsome ladies, all dressed in gowns, amongst which it was easy +to distinguish the fair princess of Carignan. The queen entertained +me with a world of sweetness and affability, and seemed mistress of a +great share of good sense. She did not forget to put me in mind of +her English blood; and added, that she always felt in herself a +particular inclination to love the English. I returned her civility, +by giving her the title of majesty, as often as I could, which, +perhaps, she will not have the comfort of hearing many months +longer.--The king has a great deal of vivacity in his eyes; and the +young prince of Piedmont is a very handsome young man; but the great +devotion which this Court is, at present, fallen into, does not +permit any of those entertainments proper for his age. Processions +and masses are all the magnificence in fashion here; and gallantry is +so criminal, that the poor Count of ----, who was our acquaintance at +London, is very seriously disgraced, for some small overtures he +presumed to make to a maid of honour. I intend to set out tomorrow, +and to pass those dreadful Alps, so much talked of.--If I come to +the bottom, you shall hear of me.--I am, &c. &c. + +LET. XLVII. + +TO MRS T----. + +_Lyons, Sept_, 25. O. S. 1718. + +I RECEIVED, at my arrival here, both your obliging letters, and also +letters from many of my other friends, designed to Constantinople, +and sent me from Marseilles hither; our merchant there, knowing we +were upon our return. I am surprised to hear my sister has left +England. I suppose what I wrote to her from Turin will be lost, and +where to direct I know not, having no account of her affairs from her +own hand. For my own part, I am confined to my chamber, having kept +my bed till yesterday, ever since the 17th, that I came to this town, +where I have had so terrible a fever, I believed, for some time, that +all my journeys were ended here; and I do not at all wonder, that +such fatigues as I have passed, should have such an effect. The +first day's journey from Turin to Novalesse, is through a very fine +country, beautifully planted, and enriched by art and nature. The +next day we began to ascend mount Cenis, being carried in little +seats of twisted osiers, fixed upon poles, upon mens shoulders; our +chaises taken to pieces, and laid upon mules. + +THE prodigious prospect of mountains covered with eternal snow, of +clouds hanging far below our feet, and of vast cascades tumbling down +the rocks with a confused roaring, would have been entertaining to +me, if I had suffered less from the extreme cold that reigns here. +But the misty rains which fall perpetually, penetrated even the thick +fur I was wrapped in; and I was half dead with cold, before we got to +the foot of the mountain, which was not till two hours after dark. +This hill has a spacious plain on the top of it, and a fine lake +there; but the descent is so steep and slippery, 'tis surprising to +see these chairmen go so steadily as they do. Yet I was not half so +much afraid of breaking my neck, as I was of falling sick; and the +event has shewed, that I placed my fears right. + +THE other mountains are now all passable for a chaise, and very +fruitful in vines and pastures: Amongst them is a breed of the finest +goats in the world. Acquebellet is the last, and soon after we +entered Pont Beauvoisin, the frontier town of France, whose bridge +parts this kingdom, and the dominions of Savoy. The same night we +arrived late at this town, where I have had nothing to do, but to +take care of my health. I think myself already out of any danger; +and am determined, that the sore throat, which still remains, shall +not confine me long. I am impatient to see the curiosities of this +famous city, and more impatient to continue my journey to Paris, from +whence I hope to write you a more diverting letter than 'tis possible +for me to do now, with a mind weakened by sickness, a head muddled +with spleen, from a sorry inn, and a chamber crammed with mortifying +objects of apothecaries vials and bottles.--I am, &c. &c. + +LET. XLVIII. + +TO MR POPE. + +_Lyons, Sept_. 28. O. S. 1718. + +I RECEIVED yours here, and should thank you for the pleasure you seem +to enjoy from my return; but I can hardly forbear being angry at you +for rejoicing at what displeases me so much. You will think this but +an odd compliment on my side. I'll assure you, 'tis not from +insensibility of the joy of seeing my friends; but when I consider, +that I must, at the same time, see and hear a thousand disagreeable +impertinents; that I must receive and pay visits, make courtesies and +assist at tea-tables, where I shall be half killed with questions: +and, on the other part, that I am a creature that cannot serve any +body, but with insignificant good wishes; and that my presence is not +a necessary good to any one member of my native country, I think I +might much better have staid where ease and quiet made up the +happiness of my indolent life.--I should certainly be melancholy, if +I pursued this theme one line farther. I will rather fill the +remainder of this paper with the inscriptions on the tables of brass, +that are placed on each side of the town-house. + +I. T A B L E. + +Maererum. nostr : : : : : sii : : : : : Equidem. primam. omnium. +illum. cogitationem. hominum. quam. maxime. primam. occursuram. mihi. +provideo. deprecor. ne. quasi. novam. istam. rem. introduci. +exhorreseatis. sed. illa. po. tius. cogitetis. quam. multa. in. hac. +civitate. novata. sint. et. quidem. statim. ab. origine. urbis. +nostrae. in. quod. formas. statusque. res. p. nostra. diducta. sit. + +Quondam. reges. hanc. tenuere. urbem. ne. tamen. domesticis. +successoribus. eam. tradere. contigit. supervenere. alieni. et. +quidam. externi. ut. Numa. Romulo. successerit. ex. Sabinis. veniens. +vicinus. quidem. sed. tunc. externus. ut. Anco. Marcio. Priseus, +Tarquinius. propter. temeratum. sanguinem. quod. patre. de. marato. +Corinthio. natus. eret. et. Tarquiniensi. matre. generosa. sed. +inopi. ut. quae. tali. marito. necesse. habuerit. succumbere. cum. +domi. repelleretur. a. gerendis. honoribus. postquam. Romam. +migravit. regnum. adeptus. est. huie. quoque. et. filio. nepotive. +ejus. nam. et. hoc. inter. auctores. discrepat. incretus. Servius. +Tullius. si. nostros. sequimur. captiva. natus. ocresia. si. tuscos. +coeli. quondam. vivennae. sodalis. fidelissimus. omnisque. ejus. +casus. comes. postquam. varia. fortuna. exactus. cum. omnibus. +reliquis. coeliani. exercitus. Etruria. excessit. montem. Coelium. +occupavit. et. a. duce. suo. Coelio. ita. appellitatus. mutatoque. +nomine. nam. tusce. mastarna. ei. nomen. erat. ita. appellatus. est. +ut. dixi. et. regnum. summa. cum. reip. utilitate. obtinuit. diende. +postquam. Tarquini. Superbi. mores. invisi. civitati. nostrae. esse. +coeperunt. qua. ipsius. qua. filiorum ejus nempe. pertaesum. est. +mentes. regni. et. ad. consules. annuos. magistratus. administratio. +reip. translata. est. + +Quid. nunc. commemorem. dictaturae, hoc. ipso. consulari. imperium. +valentius. repertum. apud. majores. nostros quo. in. asperioribus. +bellis. aut. in. civili. motu. difficiliori. uterentur. aut. in. +auxilium. plebis. creatos. tribunos. plebei. quid. a. consulibus. ad. +decemviros. translatum. imperium. solutoque postea decemvirali. +regno. ad. consules. rursus. reditum. quid. im : : : : v ris. +distributum. consulare, imperium. tribunosque. militum. consulari. +imperio. appellatus. qui. seni. et octoni. crearentur. quid. +communicatos. postremo. cum. plebe. honores. non. imperi. solum. sed. +sacerdotorum. quoque. jamsi. narrem. bella. a. quibus. coeperint. +majores. nostri. et. quo. processerimus. vereor. ne. nimio. +insolentior. esse. videar. et. quaesisse. jactationem. gloriae. +prolati. imperi. ultra. oceanum. sed. illo. C. Porius. revertar. +civitatem. + +II. T A B L E. + +: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : sane : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : +: : : nova : : : divus : aug : : : no : lus. et. patruus. Ti. Caesar. +omnem. florem. ubique. coloniarum. ac. municipiorum. bonorum. +scilicet. virorum. et. locupletium. in. hac. curia. esse. voluit. +quid. ergo. non. italicus. senator. provinciali, potior. est. jam. +vobis. cum. hanc. partem. censurae. meae. approbare. coepero. quid. +de. ca. re. sentiam. rebus. ostendam. sed. ne. provinciales. quidem. +si. modo. ornare. curiam. poterint. rejiciendos. puto. + +Ornatissima. ecce. colonia. valentissimaque. Riennensium. quam. +longo. jam. tempore. senatores. huic. curiae. consert. ex. qua. +colonia. inter. paucos. equestris. ordinis. ornamentum. L. restinum. +familiarissime. diligo. et. hodieque. in. rebus. meis. detineo. +cujus. liberi. fruantur. quaeso. primo. sacerdotiorum. gradu. post. +modo. cum. annis. promoturi. dignitatis. suae. incrementa. ut. dirum. +nomen. latronis. taceam. et. odi. illud. palestricum. prodiguum. +quod. ante. in. domum. consulatum. intulit. quam. colonia. sua. +solidum. civitatis. Romanae. beneficium. consecuta. est. idem. de +fratre. ejus. possum. dicere. miserabili. quidem. indignissimoque. +hoc. casu. ut. vobis. utilis. senator. esse. non. possit. + +Tempus. est. jam. Ti. Caesar. Germanice. detegere. te. patribus. +conscriptis. quo. tendat. oratio. tua. jam. enim. ad. extremos. +sines. Galliae. Narbonensis. venisti. + +Tot. ecce. insignes. juvenes. quot. intueor. non. magis. sunt. +poenitenci. senatorib. quam. poenitet. Persicum. nobilissimum. virum. +amicum. meum. inter. imagines. majorum. suorum. Allorogici. nomen. +legere. quod. si. hae. ita. esse. consenti. is. quid. ultra. +desideratis. quam. ut. vobis. digito. demonstrem. solum. ipsum. +ultra. sines. provinciae. Narbonensis jam. vobis. senatores. mittere. +quando. ex. Lugduno. habere. nos. nostri. ordinis. viros. non. +poenitet. timide. quidim. p. c. egressus. adsuetos. familiaresque. +vobis. provinciarum, terminos. sum. sed. destricte jam comatae. +Galliae. causa. agenda. est. in. qua. si. quis. hoc. intuetur. quod. +bello. per. decem. annos. exercuerunt. divom. julium. idem opponat. +centum. annorum. immobilem. fidem. obsequiumque. multis. tripidis. +rebus. nostris plusquam. expertum. illi. patri. meo. Druso. +Germaniam. subigenti. tutam. quiete. sua secaramque. a tergo pacem. +praestiterunt. et. quidem. cum. ad. census. novo. tum. opere. et. in. +adsueto. Galliis. ad. bellum. avocatus. esset. quod. opus. quam. +arduum. sit. nobis. nunc. cum. maxime. quamvis. nihil. ultra. quam. +ut. publice. notae. sint. facultates. nostrae. exquiratur. nimis. +magne. experimento. cognoscimus. + +I WAS also shewed without the gate of St Justinus, some remains of a +Roman aqueduct; and behind the monastery of St Mary, there are the +ruins of the imperial palace, where the emperor Claudius was born, +and where Severus lived. The great cathedral of St John is a good +Gothic building, and its clock much admired by the Germans. In one +of the most conspicuous parts of the town, is the late king's statue +set up, trampling upon mankind. I cannot forbear saying one word +here, of the French statues (for I never intend to mention any more +of them) with their gilded full-bottomed wigs. If their king had +intended to express, in one image, _ignorance, ill taste_, and +_vanity_, his sculptors could have made no other figure, so proper +for that purpose, as this statue, which represents the odd mixture of +an old beau, who had a mind to be a hero, with a bushel of curled +hair on his head, and a gilt truncheon in his hand.--The French have +been so voluminous on the history of this town, I need say nothing of +it. The houses are tolerably well built, and the Belle Cour well +planted, from whence is seen the celebrated joining of the Soane and +Rhone. + + _"Ubi Rhodanus ingens amne praerapido fluit + "Ararque dubitans quo suos fluctus agat."_ + +I have had time to see every thing with great leisure, having been +confined several days to this town by a swelling in my throat, the +remains of a fever, occasioned by a cold I got in the damps of the +Alps. The doctors here threaten me with all sorts of distempers, if +I dare to leave them; but I, that know the obstinacy of it, think it +just as possible to continue my way to Paris, with it, as to go about +the streets of Lyons; and am determined to pursue my journey +to-morrow, in spite of doctors, apothecaries, and sore throats. + +WHEN you see Lady R----, tell her I have received her letter, and +will answer it from Paris, believing that the place that she would +most willingly hear of. I am, &c. &c: + +LET. XLIX. + +TO THE LADY R----. + +_Paris, Oct_. 10. O. S. 1718. + +I CANNOT give my dear Lady R---- a better proof of the pleasure I +have in writing to her, than chusing to do it in this seat of various +amusements, where I am _accableed_ with visits, and those so full of +vivacity and compliments, that 'tis full employment enough to +hearken, whether one answers or not. The French ambassadress at +Constantinople has a very considerable and numerous family here, who +all come to see me, and are never weary of making inquiries. The air +of Paris has already had a good effect on me; for I was never in +better health, though I have been extremely ill all the road from +Lyons to this place. You may judge how agreeable the journey has +been to me; which did not want that addition to make me dislike it. +I think nothing so terrible as objects of misery, except one had the +God-like attribute of being capable to redress them; and all the +country villages of France shew nothing else. While the post horses +are changed, the whole town comes out to beg, with such miserable +starved faces, and thin tattered cloths, they need no other +eloquence, to persuade one of the wretchedness of their condition. +This is all the French magnificence, till you come to Fountainbleau, +when you are shewed one thousand five hundred rooms in the king's +hunting palace. The apartments of the royal family are very large, +and richly gilt; but I saw nothing in the architecture or painting +worth remembering. The long gallery, built by Henry IV. has +prospects of all the king's houses. Its walls are designed after the +taste of those times, but appear now very mean. The park is, indeed, +finely wooded and watered, the trees well grown and planted, and in +the fish-ponds are kept tame carp, said to be, some of them, eighty +years of age. The late king passed some months every year at this +seat; and all the rocks round it, by the pious sentences inscribed +on them, shew the devotion in fashion at his court, which I believe +died with him; at least, I see no exterior marks of it at Paris, +where all peoples thoughts seem to be on present diversion. + +THE fair of St Lawrence is now in season. You may be sure I have +been carried thither, and think it much better disposed than ours of +Bartholomew. The shops being all set in rows so regularly and well +lighted, they made up a very agreeable spectacle. But I was not at +all satisfied with the _grossierte_ of their harlequin, no more than +with their music at the opera, which was abominably grating, after +being used to that of Italy. Their house is a booth, compared to +that of the Hay-market, and the play-house not so neat as that of +Lincoln's-Inn-fields; but then it must be owned, to their praise, +their tragedians are much beyond any of ours. I should hardly allow +Mrs O----d a better place than to be confidante to La ----. I have +seen the tragedy of Bajazet so well represented, that I think our +best actors can be only said to speak, but these to feel; and 'tis +certainly infinitely more moving to see a man appear unhappy, than to +hear him say that he is so, with a jolly face, and a stupid smirk in +his countenance.--_A propos_ of countenances, I must tell you +something of the French ladies; I have seen all the beauties, and +such--(I can't help making use of the coarse word) nauseous +creatures! so fantastically absurd in their dress! so monstrously +unnatural in their paints! their hair cut short, and curled round +their faces, and so loaded with powder, that it makes it look like +white wool! and on their cheeks to their chins, unmercifully laid on +a shining red japan, that glistens in a most flaming manner, so that +they seem to have no resemblance to human faces. I am apt to +believe, that they took the first hint of their dress from a fair +sheep newly ruddled. 'Tis with pleasure I recollect my dear pretty +country-women: and if I was writing to any body else, I should say, +that these grotesque daubers give me still a higher esteem of the +natural charms of dear Lady R----'s auburne (sic) hair, and the +lively colours of her unsullied complexion. I am, &c. &c. + +_P. S._ I have met the Abbe here, who desires me to make his +compliments to you. + +LET. L. + +TO MR T----. + +_Paris, Oct_. 16. O. S. 1718. + +YOU see I'm just to my word, in writing to you from Paris, where I +was very much surprised to meet my sister; I need not add, very much +pleased. She as little expected to see me as I her (having not +received my late letters); and this meeting would shine under the +hand of de Seuderie; but I shall not imitate his style so far, as to +tell you how often we embraced, how she inquired, by what odd chance +I returned from Constantinople? And I answered her by asking, what +adventure brought her to Paris? To shorten the story, all questions, +and answers, and exclamations, and compliments being over, we agreed +upon running about together, and have seen Versailles, Trianon, +Marli, and St Cloud. We had an order for the water to play for our +diversion, and I was followed thither by all the English at Paris. I +own, Versailles appeared to me rather vast than beautiful; and after +having seen the exact proportions of the Italian buildings, I thought +the irregularity of it shocking. + +THE king's cabinet of antiques and medals, is, indeed, very richly +furnished. Amongst that collection, none pleased so well, as the +apotheosis of Germanicus, on a large agate, which is one of the most +delicate pieces of the kind that I remember to have seen. I observed +some ancient statues of great value. But the nauseous flattery, and +tawdry pencil of Le Brun, are equally disgusting in the gallery. I +will not pretend to describe to you the great apartment, the vast +variety of fountains, the theatre, the grove of Esop's (sic) fables, +&c. all which you may read very amply particularized in some of the +French authors, that have been paid for these descriptions. +Trianon, in its littleness, pleased me better than Versailles; Marli, +better than either of them; and St Cloud best of all; having the +advantage of the Seine running at the bottom of the gardens, the +great cascade, &c. You may find information in the aforesaid books, +if you have any curiosity to know the exact number of the statues, +and how many feet they cast up the water. + +WE saw the king's pictures in the magnificent house of the duke +D'Antin, who has the care of preserving them till his majesty is of +age. There are not many but of the best hands. I looked, with great +pleasure on the arch-angel of Raphael, where the sentiments of +superior beings are as well expressed as in Milton. You won't +forgive me, if I say nothing of the Thuilleries (sic), much finer than +our Mall; and the Cour, more agreeable than our Hyde-park, the high +trees giving shade in the hottest season. At the Louvre, I had the +opportunity of seeing the king, accompanied by the Duke regent. He is +tall, and well shaped but has not the air of holding the crown so +many years as his grandfather. And now I am speaking of the Court, I +must say, I saw nothing in France that delighted me so much, as to +see an Englishman (at least a Briton) absolute at Paris, I mean Mr +Law, who treats their dukes and peers extremely _de haut en bas_, and +is treated by them with the utmost submission and respect.--Poor +souls!--This reflection on their abject slavery, puts me in mind of +the _place des victoires_; but I will not take up your time, and my +own, with such descriptions, which are too numerous. + +IN general, I think Paris has the advantage of London, in the neat +pavement of the streets, and the regular lighting of them at nights, +in the proportion of the streets, the houses being all built of +stone, and most of those belonging to people of quality being +beautified by gardens. But we certainly may boast of a town very +near twice as large; and when I have said that, I know nothing else +we surpass it in. I shall not continue here long; if you have any +thing to command me during my short stay, write soon, and I shall +take pleasure in obeying you. I am, &c. &c. + +LET. LI. + +TO THE ABBOT ----. + +_Dover, Oct_. 31. O. S. 1718. + +I AM willing to take your word for it, that I shall really oblige +you, by letting you know, as soon as possible, my safe passage over +the water. I arrived this morning at Dover, after being tossed a +whole night in the packet-boat, in so violent a manner, that the +master, considering the weakness of his vessel, thought it proper to +remove the mail, and give us notice of the danger. We called a +little fishing boat, which could hardly make up to us; while all the +people on board us were crying to Heaven. 'Tis hard to imagine one's +self in a scene of greater horror than on such an occasion: and yet, +shall I own it to you? though I was not at all willingly to be +drowned, I could not forbear being entertained at the double distress +of a fellow-passenger. She was an English lady that I had met at +Calais, who desired me to let her go over with me in my cabin. She +had bought a fine point-head, which she was contriving to conceal +from the custom-house officers. When the wind grew high, and our +little vessel cracked, she fell very heartily to her prayers, and +thought wholly of her soul. When it seemed to abate, she returned to +the worldly care of her head-dress, and addressed herself to +me--_"Dear madam, will you take care of this point? if it should be +"lost!--Ah, Lord, we shall all be lost!--Lord have mercy on my +"soul!--Pray, madam, take care of this head-dress."_ This easy +transition from her soul to her head-dress, and the alternate agonies +that both gave her, made it hard to determine which she thought of +greatest value. But, however, the scene was not so diverting, but I +was glad to get rid of it, and be thrown into the little boat, though +with some hazard of breaking my neck. It brought me safe hither; and +I cannot help looking with partial eyes on my native land. That +partiality was certainly given us by nature, to prevent rambling, the +effect of an ambitious thirst after knowledge, which we are not +formed to enjoy. All we get by it, is a fruitless desire of mixing +the different pleasures and conveniencies which are given to the +different parts of the world, and cannot meet in any one of them. +After having read all that is to be found in the languages I am +mistress of, and having decayed my sight by midnight studies, I envy +the easy peace of mind of a ruddy milk-maid, who, undisturbed by +doubt, hears the sermon, with humility, every Sunday, not having +confounded the sentiments of natural duty in her head by the +vain-inquiries of the schools, who may be more learned, yet, after +all, must remain as ignorant. And, after having seen part of Asia +and Africa, and almost made the tour of Europe, I think the honest +English squire more happy, who verily believes the Greek wines less +delicious than March beer; that the African fruits have not so fine a +flavour as golden pippins; that the Beca figuas of Italy are not so +well tasted as a rump of beef; and that, in short, there is no +perfect enjoyment of this life out of Old England. I pray God I may +think so for the rest of my life; and, since I must be contented with +our scanty allowance of day-light, that I may forget the enlivening +sun of Constantinople. I am, &c. &c. + +LET. LII. + +TO MR P----. + +_Dover, Nov_. 1. O. S. 1718. + +I Have this minute received a letter of yours, sent me from Paris. I +believe and hope I shall very soon see both you and Mr Congreve; but +as I am here in an inn, where we stay to regulate our march to +London, bag and baggage, I shall employ some of my leisure time, in +answering that part of yours, that seems to require an answer. + +I MUST applaud your good nature, in supposing, that your pastoral +lovers (vulgarly called hay-makers) would have lived in everlasting +joy and harmony, if the lightning had not interrupted their scheme of +happiness. I see no reason to imagine, that John Hughes and Sarah +Drew, were either wiser or more virtuous than their neighbours. That +a well-set man of twenty-five should have a fancy to marry a brown +woman of eighteen, is nothing marvellous; and I cannot help thinking, +that had they married, their lives would have passed in the common +track with their fellow parishioners. His endeavouring to shield her +from a storm, was a natural action, and what he would have certainly +done for his horse, if he had been in the same situation. Neither am +I of opinion, that their sudden death was a reward of their mutual +virtue. You know the Jews were reproved for thinking a village +destroyed by fire, more wicked than those that had escaped the +thunder. Time and chance happen to all men. Since you desire me to +try my skill in an epitaph, I think the following lines perhaps more +just, tho' not so poetical as yours. + + _Here lies John Hughes and Sarah Drew; + Perhaps you'll say, What's that to you? + Believe me, friend, much may be said + On that poor couple that are dead. + On Sunday next they should have married; + But see how oddly things are carried! + On Thursday last it rain'd and lighten'd, + These tender lovers sadly frighten'd, + Shelter'd beneath the cocking hay, + In hopes to pass the time away, + But the_ BOLD THUNDER _found them out, + (Commission'd for that end no doubt) + And seizing on their trembling breath, + Consign'd them to the shades of death. + Who knows if 'twas not kindly done? + For had they seen the next year's fun, + A beaten wife and cockold swain + Had jointly curs'd the marriage chain: + Now they are happy in their doom_, + FOR POPE HAS WROTE UPON THEIR TOMB. + +I CONFESS, these sentiments are not altogether so heroic as yours; +but I hope you will forgive them in favour of the two last lines. +You see how much I esteem the honour you have done them; though I +am not very impatient to have the same, and had rather continue to be +your stupid _living_ humble servant, than be _celebrated_ by all the +pens in Europe. + +I WOULD write to Mr C----; but suppose you will read this to him, if +he inquires after me. + +LET. LIII. + +[Footnote: This and the following letters are now first published.] + +TO LADY ----. + +_January_ 13. 1715-16. + +I FIND, after all, by your letter of yesterday, that Mrs D---- is +resolved to marry the old greasy curate. She was always high-church +in an excessive degree; and, you know, she used to speak of +Sacheveral as an apostolic saint, who was worthy to sit in the same +place with St Paul, if not a step above him. It is a matter, +however, very doubtful to me, whether it is not still more the _man_ +than the _apostle_ that Mrs D---- looks to in the present alliance. +Though at the age of forty, she is, I assure you, very far from being +cold and insensible; her fire may be covered with ashes, but it is +not extinguished.--Don't be deceived, my dear, by that prudish and +sanctified air.--Warm devotions is no equivocal mark of warm +passions; besides, I know it is a fact, (of which I have proofs in +hand, which I will tell you by word of mouth) that our learned and +holy prude is exceedingly disposed to use the _means_, supposed in +the primitive command, let what will come of the end. The curate +indeed is very filthy.--Such a red, spungy (sic), warty nose! Such a +squint!--In short, he is ugly beyond expression; and, what ought +naturally to render him peculiarly displeasing to one of Mrs D----'s +constitution and propensities, he is stricken in years. Nor do I +really know how they will live. He has but forty-five pounds +a-year--she but a trifling sum; so that they are likely to feast upon +love and ecclesiastical history which will be very empty food, +without a proper mixture of beef and pudding. I have however, +engaged our friend, who is the curate's landlord, to give them a good +lease; and if Mrs D----, instead of spending whole days in reading +Collier, Hicks, and vile translations of Plato and Epictetus; will +but form the resolution of taking care of her house, and minding her +dairy, things may go tolerably. It is not likely that their _tender +loves_ will give them many _sweet babes_ to provide for. + +I MET the lover yesterday, going to the ale-house in his dirty +nightgown, with a book under his arm, to entertain the club; and, as +Mrs D---- was with me at the time, I pointed out to her the charming +creature: she blushed, and looked prim; but quoted a passage out of +Herodotus, in which it is said that the Persians wore long +night-gowns. There is really no more accounting for the taste in +marriage of many of our sex, than there is for the appetite of your +Miss S----y, who makes such waste of chalk and charcoal, when they +fall in her way. + +AS marriage produces children, so children produce care and disputes; +and wrangling, as is said (at least by old batchelors (sic) and old +maids) is one of the _sweets_ of the conjugal state. You tell me +that our friend Mrs ---- is, at length, blessed with a son, and that +her husband, who is a great philosopher, (if his own testimony is to +be depended upon) insists on her suckling it herself. You ask my +advice on this matter; and, to give it you frankly, I really think +that Mr ----'s demand is unreasonable, as his wife's constitution is +tender, and her temper fretful. A true philosopher would consider +these circumstances; but a pedant is always throwing his system in +your face, and applies it equally to all things, times and places, +just like a taylor who would make a coat out of his own head, without +any regard to the bulk or figure of the person that must wear it. +All those fine-spun arguments that he has drawn from nature, to stop +your mouths, weigh, I must own to you, but very little with me. This +same _Nature_ is, indeed, a specious word, nay there is a great deal +in it, if it is properly understood and applied; but I cannot bear to +hear people using it, to justify what common sense must disavow. Is +not nature modified by art in many things? Was it not designed to be +so? And is it not happy for human society, that it is so? Would you +like to see your husband let his beard grow, until he would be +obliged to put the end of it in his pocket, because this beard is the +gift of nature? The instincts of nature point out neither taylors, +nor weavers, nor mantua-makers, nor sempsters, nor milliners; and yet +I am very glad that we do not run naked like the Hottentots. But not +to wander from the subject--I grant, that nature has furnished the +mother with milk to nourish her child; but I maintain, at the same +time, that if she can find better milk elsewhere, she ought to prefer +it without hesitation. I don't see why she should have more scruple +to do this, than her husband has to leave the clear fountain which +nature gave him, to quench his thirst, for stout october, port, or +claret. Indeed, if Mrs ---- was a buxom, sturdy woman, who lived on +plain food, took regular exercise, enjoyed proper returns of rest, +and was free from violent passions (which you and I know is not the +case) she might be a good nurse for her child; but, as matters stand, +I do verily think, that the milk of a good comely cow, who feeds +quietly in her meadow, never devours ragouts, nor drinks ratifia, nor +frets at quadrille, nor sits up till three in the morning, elated +with gain, or dejected with loss; I do think, that the milk of such a +cow, or of a nurse that came as near it as possible, would be likely +to nourish the young squire much better than hers. If it be true +that the child sucks in the mother's passions with her milk, this is +a strong argument in favour of the cow, unless you may be afraid that +the young squire may become a calf; but how many calves are there +both in state and church, who have been brought up with their +mother's milk. + +I PROMISE faithfully, to communicate to no mortal the letter you +wrote me last.--What you say of two of the rebel lords, I believe to +be true; but I can do nothing in the matter.--If my projects don't +fail in the execution, I shall see you before a month passes. Give +my service to Dr Blackbeard.--He is a good man, but I never saw in +my life, such a persecuting face cover a humane and tender heart. I +imagine (within myself) that the Smithfield priests, who burned the +protestants in the time of Queen Mary, had just such faces as the +doctor's. If we were papists, I should like him very much for my +confessor; his seeming austerity would give you and I a great +reputation for sanctity; and his good, indulgent heart, would be the +very thing that would suit us, in the affair of penance and ghostly +direction. Farewell, my dear lady, &c. &c. + +LET. LIV. + +TO THE ABBOT ----. + +_Vienna, Jan_. 2. O. S. 1717. + +I AM really almost tired with the life of Vienna. I am not, indeed, +an enemy to dissipation and hurry, much less to amusement and +pleasure; but I cannot endure, long, even pleasure, when it is +fettered with formality, and assumes the air of system. 'Tis true I +have had here some very agreeable connections; and what will perhaps +surprise you, I have particular pleasure in my Spanish acquaintances, +count Oropesa and general Puebla. These two noblemen are much in the +good graces of the emperor, and yet they seem to be brewing mischief. +The court of Madrid cannot reflect, without pain, upon the +territories that were cut off from the Spanish monarchy by the peace +of Utrecht, and it seems to be looking wishfully out, for an +opportunity of getting them back again. That is a matter about which +I trouble myself very little; let the Court be in the right or in the +wrong, I like mightily the two counts its ministers. I dined with +them both some days ago at count Wurmbrand's, an aulic counsellor, +and a man of letters, who is universally esteemed here. But the +first man at this court, in point of knowledge and abilities, is +certainly count Schlick, high chancellor of Bohemia, whose immense +reading is accompanied with a fine taste and a solid judgment; he is +a declared enemy to prince Eugene, and a warm friend to the honest +hot-headed marshal Staremberg. One of the most accomplished men I +have seen at Vienna, is the young count Terracco, who accompanies the +amiable prince of Portugal. I am almost in love with them both, and +wonder to see such elegant manners, and such free and generous +sentiments in two young men that have hitherto seen nothing but their +own country. The count is just such a Roman-catholic as you; he +succeeds greatly with the devout beauties here; his first overtures +in gallantry are disguised under the luscious strains of spiritual +love, that were sung formerly by the sublimely voluptuous Fenelon, +and the tender madam Guion, who turned the fire of carnal love to +divine objects: thus the count begins with the _spirit_, and ends +generally with the _flesh_, when he makes his addresses to holy +virgins. + +I MADE acquaintance yesterday with the famous poet Rousseau, who +lives here under the peculiar protection of prince Eugene, by whose +liberality he subsists. He passes here for a free-thinker, and, what +is still worse in my esteem, for a man whose heart does not feel the +encomiums he gives to virtue and honour in his poems. I like his +odes mightily; they are much superior to the lyric productions of our +English poets, few of whom have made any figure in that kind of +poetry. I don't find that learned men abound here; there is, indeed, +a prodigious number of alchymists (sic) at Vienna; the _philosopher's +stone_ is the great object of zeal and science; and those who +have more reading and capacity than the vulgar, have transported +their superstition (shall I call it?) or fanaticism, from +religion to chymistry (sic); and they believe in a new kind of +transubstantiation, which is designed to make the laity as rich as +the other kind has made the priesthood. This pestilential passion +has already ruined several great houses. There is scarcely a man of +opulence or fashion, that has not an alchymist in his service; and +even the emperor is supposed to be no enemy to this folly, in secret, +though he has pretended to discourage it in public. + +PRINCE EUGENE was so polite as to shew me his library yesterday; we +found him attended by Rousseau, and his favourite count Bonneval, who +is a man of wit, and is here thought to be a very bold and +enterprizing (sic), spirit. The library, though not very ample, is +well chosen; but as the prince will admit into it no editions but +what are beautiful and pleasing to the eye, and there are, +nevertheless, numbers of excellent books that are but indifferently +printed, this finikin (sic) and foppish taste makes many disagreeable +chasms in this collection. The books are pompously bound in Turkey +leather; and two of the most famous book-binders of Paris were +expressly sent for to do this work. Bonneval pleasantly told me, +that there were several quartos, on the art of war, that were bound +with the skins of _spahis_ and _janizaries_: and this jest, which was +indeed elegant, raised a smile of pleasure on the grave countenance +of the famous warrior. The prince, who is a connoisseur in the fine +arts, shewed me, with particular pleasure, the famous collection of +portraits that formerly belonged to Fouquet, and which he purchased +at an excessive price. He has augmented it with a considerable +number of new acquisitions; so that he has now in his possession such +a collection in that kind, as you will scarcely find in any ten +cabinets in Europe. If I told you the number, you will say that I +make an indiscreet use of the permission to lie, which is more or +less given to travellers, by the indulgence of the candid. + +COUNT TARRACCO is just come in.--He is the only person I have +accepted, this morning, in my general order to receive no company.--I +think I see you smile;--but I am not so far gone as to stand in need +of absolution; though as the human heart is deceitful, and the count +very agreeable, you may think, that even though I should not want an +absolution, I would, nevertheless, be glad to have an indulgence.--No +such thing.--However, as I am a heretic, and you no confessor, I +shall make no declarations on this head.--The design of the count's +visit is a ball;--more pleasure.--I shall be surfeited. + Adieu, &c. + +LET. LV. + +TO MR P----. + +_Sept_. 1. 1717. + +WHEN I wrote to you last, Belgrade was in the hands of the Turks; +but, at this present moment, it has changed masters, and is in the +hands of the Imperialists. A janizary, who, in nine days, and yet +without any wings but what a panic terror seems to have furnished, +arrived at Constantinople from the army of the Turks before Belgrade, +brought Mr W---- the news of a complete victory obtained by the +Imperialists, commanded by prince Eugene, over the Ottoman troops. +It is said, the prince has discovered great conduct and valour in +this action; and I am particularly glad that the voice of glory and +duty has call'd him from the--(Note in the published book: _here +several words of the manuscript are effaced._)--Two day's after the +battle, the town surrendered. The consternation, which this defeat +has occasioned here, is inexpressible; and the sultan, apprehending a +revolution, from the resentment and indignation of the people, +fomented by certain leaders, has begun his precautions, after the +goodly fashion of this blessed government, by ordering several +persons to be strangled, who were the objects of his royal suspicion. +He has also ordered his treasurer to advance some months pay to the +janizaries, which seems the less necessary, as their conduct has been +bad in this campaign, and their licentious ferocity seems pretty well +tamed by the public contempt. Such of them as return in straggling +and fugitive parties to the metropolis, have not spirit nor credit +enough to defend themselves from the insults of the mob; the very +children taunt them, and the populace spit in their faces as they +pass. They refused, during the battle, to lend their assistance to +save the baggage and the military chest, which, however, were +defended by the bashaws and their retinue, while the janizaries and +spahis were nobly employed in plundering their own camp. + +You see here, that I give you a very _handsome_ return for your +obliging letter. You entertain me with a most agreeable account of +your amiable connexions (sic) with men of letters and taste, and of +the delicious moments you pass in their society under the rural +shade; and I exhibit to you, in return, the barbarous spectacle of +Turks and Germans cutting one another's throats. But what can you +expect from such a country as this, from which the Muses have fled, +from which letters seem eternally banished, and in which you see, in +private scenes, nothing pursued as happiness, but the refinements of +an indolent voluptuousness; and where those who act upon the public +theatre live in uncertainty, suspicion, and terror? Here, pleasure, +to which I am no enemy, when it is properly seasoned, and of a good +composition, is surely of the coying kind. Veins of wit, elegant +conversation, easy commerce, are unknown among the Turks; and yet +they seem capable of all these, if the vile spirit of their +government did not stifle genius, damp curiosity, and suppress an +hundred passions, that embellish and render life agreeable. The +luscious passion of the seraglio is the only one almost that is +gratified here to the full; but it is blended so with the surly +spirit of despotism in one of the parties, and with the dejection and +anxiety which this spirit produces in the other, that, to one of my +way of thinking, it cannot appear otherwise than as a very mixed kind +of enjoyment. The women here are not, indeed, so closely confined as +many have related; they enjoy a high degree of liberty, even in the +bosom of servitude, and they have methods of evasion and disguise, +that are very favourable to gallantry; but, after all, they are still +under uneasy apprehensions of being discovered; and a discovery +exposes them to the most merciless rage of jealousy, which is here a +monster that cannot be satiated but with blood. The magnificence and +riches that reign in the apartments of the ladies of fashion here, +seem to be one of their chief pleasures, joined with their retinue of +female slaves, whose music, dancing, and dress, amuse them highly; +but there is such an air of form and stiffness amidst this grandeur, +as hinders it from pleasing me at long-run, however, I was dazzled +with it at first sight. This stiffness and formality of manners are +peculiar to the Turkish ladies; for the Grecian belles are of quite +another character and complexion; with them, pleasure appears in more +engaging forms; and their persons, manners, conversation and +amusements, are very far from being destitute of elegance and ease. + +I RECEIVED the news of Mr Addison's being declared secretary of state +with the less surprise, in that I know that post was almost offered +to him before. At that time he declined it; and I really believe +that he would have done well to have declined it now. Such a post as +that, and such a wife as the Countess, do not seem to be, in +prudence, eligible for a man that is asthmatic; and we may see the +day, when he will be heartily glad to resign them both. It is well +that he laid aside the thoughts of the voluminous dictionary, of +which I have heard you or somebody else frequently make mention. But +no more on that subject; I would not have said so much, were I not +assured that this letter will come safe and unopened to hand. I long +much to tread upon English ground, that I may see you and Mr +Congreve, who render that ground _classic ground_; nor will you +refuse our present secretary a part of that merit, whatever reasons +you may have to be dissatisfied with him in other respects. You are +the three happiest poets I ever heard of; one a secretary of state, +the other enjoying leisure, with dignity, in two lucrative +employments; and you, though your religious profession is an obstacle +to Court promotion, and disqualifies you from filling civil +employments, have found the _philosopher's stone_; since, by making +the Iliad pass through your poetical crucible into an English form, +without losing aught of it's original beauty, you have drawn the +golden current of Pactolus to Twickenham. I call this finding the +philosopher's stone, since you alone found out the secret, and +nobody else has got into it. A----n and T----l tried it, but their +experiments failed; and they lost, if not their money, at least a +certain portion of their fame in the trial--while you touched the +mantle of the divine bard, and imbibed his spirit. I hope we shall +have the Odyssey soon from your happy hand; and I think I shall +follow, with singular pleasure, the traveller Ulysses, who was an +observer of men and manners, when he travels in your harmonious +numbers. I love him much better than the hot-headed son of Peleus, +who bullied his general, cried for his mistress, and so on. It is +true, the excellence of the Iliad does not depend upon his merit or +dignity; but I wish, nevertheless, that Homer had chosen a hero +somewhat less pettish and less fantastic: a perfect hero is +chimerical and unnatural, and consequently uninstructive; but it is +also true, that while the epic hero ought to be drawn with the +infirmities that are the lot of humanity, he ought never to be +represented as extremely absurd. But it becomes me ill to play the +critic; so I take my leave of you for this time, and desire you will +believe me, with the highest esteem, Your's, &c. + +LET. LVI. + +[Footnote: As this letter is the supplement to a preceding one, which +is not come to the hands of the editor, it was probably, on that +account, sent without a date. It seems evidently to have been +written after Lady M. W. M. had fixed her residence in Italy.] + +To THE COUNTESS OF ----. + +_Saturday-Florence_. + +I SET out from Bologne (sic) the moment I had finished the letter I +wrote you on Monday last, and shall now continue to inform you of the +things that have struck me most in this excursion. Sad roads--hilly +and rocky--between Bologna and Fierenzuola. Between this latter +place and Florence, I went out of my road to visit the monastery of +La Trappe, which is of French origin, and one of the most austere and +self-denying orders I have met with. In this gloomy retreat, it gave +me pain to observe the infatuation of men, who have devoutly reduced +themselves to a much worse condition than that of the beasts. Folly, +you see, is the lot of humanity, whether it arises in the flowery +paths of pleasure, or the thorny ones of an ill-judged devotion. But +of the two sorts of fools, I shall always think that the merry one +has the most eligible fate; and I cannot well form a notion of that +spiritual and ecstatic joy, that is mixed with sighs, groans, hunger +and thirst, and the other complicated miseries of monastic +discipline. It is a strange way of going to work for happiness, to +excite an enmity between soul and body, which nature and providence +have designed to live together in an union and friendship, and which +we cannot separate like man and wife, when they happen to disagree. +The profound silence that is enjoined upon the monks of La Trappe, is +a singular circumstance of their unsociable and unnatural discipline; +and were this injunction never to be dispensed with, it would be +needless to visit them in any other character than as a collection of +statues; but the superior of the convent suspended, in our favour, +that rigorous law, and allowed one of the mutes to converse with me, +and answer a few discreet questions. He told me, that the monks of +this order in France are still more austere than those of Italy, as +they never taste wine, flesh, fish, or eggs; but live entirely upon +vegetables. The story that is told of the institution of this order +is remarkable, and is well attested, if my information be good. Its +founder was a French nobleman, whose name was Bouthillier da (sic) +Rance, a man of pleasure and gallantry, which were converted into the +deepest gloom of devotion, by the following incident. His affairs +obliged him to absent himself for some time, from a lady with whom he +had lived in the most intimate and tender connections of successful +love. At his return to Paris, he proposed to surprise her agreeably; +and, at the same time, to satisfy his own impatient desire of seeing +her, by going directly, and without ceremony, to her apartment by a +back stair, which he was well acquainted with.--But think of the +spectacle that presented itself to him at his entrance into the +chamber that had so often been the scene of love's highest raptures! +His mistress dead--dead of the small-pox--disfigured beyond +expression--a loathsome mass of putrified (sic) matter--and the +surgeon separating the head from the body, because the coffin had +been made too short! He stood for a moment motionless in amazement, +and filled with horror--and then retired from the world, shut +himself up in the convent of La Trappe, where he passed the remainder +of his days in the most cruel and disconsolate devotion.--Let us +quit this sad subject. + +I MUST not forget to tell you, that before I came to this monastery, +I went to see the burning mountains near Fierenzuola, of which the +naturalists speak as a great curiosity. The flame it sends forth is +without smoke, and resembles brandy set on fire. The ground about it +is well cultivated, and the fire appears only in one spot where there +is a cavity, whose circumference is small, but in it are several +crevices whose depths are unknown. It is remarkable, that when a +piece of wood is thrown into this cavity, though it cannot pass +through the crevices, yet it is consumed in a moment; and that though +the ground about it be perfectly cold, yet if a stick be rubbed with +any force against it, it emits a flame, which, however, is neither +hot nor durable like that of the volcano. If you desire a more +circumstantial account of this phenomenon, and have made a sufficient +progress in Italian, to read father Carazzi's description of it, you +need not be at a loss, for I have sent this description to Mr F----, +and you have only to ask it of him. After observing the volcano, I +Scrambled up all the neighbouring hills, partly on horse-back, partly +on foot, but could find no vestige of fire in any of them; though +common report would make one believe that they all contain volcanos. + +I HOPE you have not taken it in your head to expect from me a +description of the famous gallery, here, where I arrived on Thursday +at noon; this would be requiring a volume instead of a letter; +besides I have as yet seen but a part of this immense treasure, and I +propose employing some weeks more to survey the whole. You cannot +imagine any situation more agreeable than Florence. It lies in a +fertile and smiling valley watered by the Arno, which runs through +the city; and nothing can surpass the beauty and magnificence of its +public buildings, particularly the cathedral, whose grandeur filled +me with astonishment. The palaces, squares, fountains, statues, +bridges, do not only carry an aspect full of elegance and greatness, +but discover a taste quite different, in kind, from that which reigns +in the public edifices in other countries. The more I see of Italy, +the more I am persuaded that the Italians have a style (if I may use +that expression) in every thing, which distinguishes them almost +essentially from all other Europeans. Where they have got +it,--whether from natural genius or ancient imitation and +inheritance, I shall not examine; but the fact is certain. I have +been but one day in the gallery, that amazing repository of the most +precious remains of antiquity, and which alone is sufficient to +immortalize the illustrious house of Medicis, by whom it was built, +and enriched as we now see it. I was so impatient to see the famous +Venus of Medicis, that I went hastily through six apartments, in +order to get a sight of this divine figure; purposing (sic), when I +had satisfied this ardent curiosity, to return and view the rest at +my leisure. As I, indeed, passed through the great room which +contains the ancient statues, I was stopped short at viewing the +Antinous, which they have placed near that of Adrian, to revive the +remembrance of their preposterous loves; which, I suppose, the +Florentines rather look upon as an object of envy, than of horror and +disgust. This statue, like that of the Venus de Medicis, spurns +description: such figures my eyes never beheld.--I can now understand +that Ovid's comparing a fine woman to a statue, which I formerly +thought a very disobliging similitude, was the nicest and highest +piece of flattery. The Antinous is entirely naked, all its parts are +bigger than nature; but the whole, taken together, and the fine +attitude of the figure, carry such an expression of ease, elegance +and grace, as no words can describe. When I saw the Venus I was rapt +in wonder,--and I could not help casting a thought back upon +Antinous. They ought to be placed together; they are worthy of each +other.--If marble could see and feel, the separation might be +prudent,--if it could only _see_, it would certainly lose its +coldness, and learn to feel; and, in such a case, the charms of these +two figures would produce an effect quite opposite to that of the +Gorgon's head, which turned flesh into stone. Did I pretend to +describe to you the Venus, it would only set your imagination at work +to form ideas of her figure; and your ideas would no more resemble +that figure, than the Portuguese face of Miss ----, who has enchanted +our knights, resembles the sweet and graceful countenance of +lady ----, his former flame. The description of a face or figure, is +a needless thing, as it never conveys a true idea; it only gratifies +the imagination with a fantastic one, until the real one is seen. +So, my dear, if you have a mind to form a true notion of the divine +forms and features of the Venus and Antinous, come to Florence. + +I WOULD be glad to oblige you and your friend Vertue, by executing +your commission with respect to the sketches of Raphael's cartoons at +Hampton-court; but I cannot do it to my satisfaction. I have, +indeed, seen, in the grand duke's collection, four pieces, in which +that wonderful artist had thrown freely from his pencil the first +thoughts and rude lines of some of these compositions; and as the +first thoughts of a great genius are precious, these pieces attracted +my curiosity in a particular manner; but when I went to examine them +closely, I found them so damaged and effaced, that they did not at +all answer my expectation. Whether this be owing to negligence or +envy, I cannot say; I mention the latter, because it is notorious, +that many of the modern painters have discovered ignoble marks of +envy at a view of the inimitable productions Of the ancients. +Instead of employing their art to preserve the master-pieces of +antiquity, they have endeavoured to destroy and efface many of them. +I have seen with my own eyes an evident proof of this at Bologna, +where the greatest part of the paintings in fresco on the walls of +the convent of St Michael in Bosco, done by the Carracci, and Guido +Rheni, have been ruined by the painters, who, after having copied +some of the finest heads, scraped them almost entirely out with +nails. Thus, you see, nothing is exempt from human malignity. + +THE word malignity, and a passage in your letter, call to my mind the +wicked wasp of Twickenham; his lies affect me now no more; they will +be all as much despised as the story of the seraglio and the +handkerchief, of which I am persuaded he was the only inventor. That +man has a malignant and ungenerous heart; and he is base enough to +assume the mark of a moralist in order to decry human nature, and to +give a decent vent to his hatred to man and woman kind.--But I must +quit this contemptible subject, on which a just indignation would +render my pen so fertile, that, after having fatigued you with a long +letter, I would surfeit you with a supplement twice as long. +Besides, a violent head-ach (sic) advertises me that it is time to +lay down my pen and get me to bed. I shall say some things to you in +my next, that I would have you to impart to the _strange man_, as +from yourself. My mind is at present tolerably quiet; if it were as +dead to sin, as it is to certain connections, I should be a great +saint. Adieu, my dear madam. Yours very affectionately, &c. + +LET. LVII. + +TO MR P. + +I HAVE been running about Paris at a strange rate with my sister, and +strange sights have we seen. They are, at least, strange sights to +me; for, after having been accustomed to the gravity of Turks, I can +scarce look with an easy and familiar aspect at the levity and +agility of the airy phantoms that are dancing about me here; and I +often think that I am at a puppet-shew, amidst the representations of +real life. I stare prodigiously, but nobody remarks it, for every +body stares here, staring is a-la-mode--there is a stare of +attention and _interet_, a stare of curiosity, a stare of +expectation, a stare of surprise; and it will greatly amuse you to +see what trifling objects excite all this staring. This staring +would have rather a solemn kind of air, were it not alleviated by +grinning; for at the end of a stare, there comes always a grin; and +very commonly, the entrance of a gentleman or lady into a room is +accompanied with a grin, which is designed to express complacence and +social pleasure, but really shews nothing more than a certain +contortion of muscles, that must make a stranger laugh really, as +they laugh artificially. The French grin is equally remote from the +cheerful serenity of a smile, and the cordial mirth of an honest +English horse-laugh. I shall not perhaps stay here long enough to +form a just idea of French manners and characters, though this I +believe would require but little study, as there is no great depth in +either. It appears, on a superficial view, to be a frivolous, +restless, and agreeable people. The abbot is my guide, and I could +not easily light upon a better; he tells me, that here the women form +the character of the men, and I am convinced in the persuasion of +this, by every company into which I enter. There seems here to be no +intermediate state between infancy and manhood; for as soon as the +boy has quit his leading-strings, he is set agog in the world; the +ladies are his tutors, they make the first impressions, which, +generally remain, and they render the men ridiculous, by the +imitation of their humours and graces; so that dignity in manners, is +a rare thing here before the age of sixty. Does not king David say +somewhere, that _Man walketh in a vain shew?_ I think he does; and +I am sure this is peculiarly true of the Frenchman--but he walks +merrily, and seems to enjoy the vision; and may he not therefore be +esteemed more happy than many of our solid thinkers, whose brows are +furrowed by deep reflection, and whose wisdom is so often clothed +with a misty mantle of spleen and vapours? + +WHAT delights me most here, is a view of the magnificence, often +accompanied with taste, that reigns in the king's palaces and +gardens; for tho' I don't admire much the architecture, in which +there is great irregularity and want of proportion, yet the statues, +paintings, and other decorations, afford me high entertainment. One +of the pieces of antiquity that struck me most in the gardens of +Versailles, was the famous Colossean statue of Jupiter, the +workmanship of Myron, which Mark Anthony carried away from Samos, and +Augustus ordered to be placed in the capitol. It is of Parian +marble; and though it has suffered in the ruin of time, it still +preserves striking lines of majesty. But surely, if marble could +feel, the god would frown with a generous indignation, to see himself +transported from the capitol into a French garden; and, after having +received the homage of the Roman emperors, who laid their laurels at +his feet when they returned from their conquests, to behold now +nothing but frizzled beaus passing by him with indifference. + +I PROPOSE setting out soon from this place, so that you are to +expect no more letters from this side of the water; besides, I am +hurried to death, and my head swims with that vast variety of objects +which I am obliged to view with such rapidity, the shortness of my +time not allowing me to examine them at my leisure. There is here an +excessive prodigality of ornaments and decorations, that is just the +opposite extreme to what appears in our royal gardens; this +prodigality is owing to the levity and inconstancy of the French +taste, which always pants after something new, and thus heaps +ornament upon ornament, without end or measure. It is time, however, +that I should put an end to my letter; so I wish you good night, + And am, &c. + +LET. LVIII. + +TO THE COUNT ----. + +_Translated from the French._ + +I AM charmed, Sir, with your obliging letter; and you may perceive, +by the largeness of my paper, that I intend to give punctual answers +to all your questions, at least if my French will permit me; for, as +it is a language I do not understand to perfection, so I much fear, +that, for want of expressions, I shall be quickly obliged to finish. +Keep in mind, therefore, that I am writing in a foreign language, and +be sure to attribute all the impertinencies and triflings (sic) +dropping from my pen, to the want of proper words for declaring my +thoughts, but by no means to dulness, or natural levity. + +THESE conditions being thus agreed and settled, I begin with telling +you, that you have a true notion of the alcoran, concerning which the +Greek priests (who are the greatest scoundrels in the universe) have +invented, out of their own heads, a thousand ridiculous stories, in +order to decry the law of Mahomet; to run it down, I say, without any +examination, or so much as letting the people read it; being afraid, +that if once they began to sift the defects of the alcoran, they +might not stop there, but proceed to make use of their judgment about +their own legends and fictions. In effect, there is nothing so like +as the fables of the Greeks and of the Mahometans; and the last have +multitudes of saints, at whose tombs miracles are by them said to be +daily performed; nor are the accounts of the lives of those blessed +musselmans much less stuffed with extravagancies, than the spiritual +romances of the Greek papas. + +AS to your next inquiry, I assure you, 'tis certainly false, though +commonly believed in our parts of the world, that Mahomet excludes +women from any share in a future happy state. He was too much a +gentleman, and loved the fair sex too well, to use them so +barbarously. On the contrary, he promises a very fine paradise to +the Turkish women. He says, indeed, that this paradise will be a +separate place from that of their husbands; but I fancy the most part +of them won't like it the worse for that; and that the regret of this +separation will not render their paradise the less agreeable. It +remains to tell you, that the virtues which Mahomet requires of the +women, to merit the enjoyment of future happiness, are, not to live +in such a manner as to become useless to the world, but to employ +themselves, as much as possible, in making little musselmans. The +virgins, who die virgins, and the widows who marry not again, dying +in mortal sin, are excluded out of paradise: For women, says he, not +being capable to manage the affairs of state, nor to support the +fatigues of war, God has not ordered them to govern or reform the +world; but he has entrusted them with an office which is not less +honourable; even that of multiplying the human race: and such as, out +of malice or laziness, do not make it their business to bear or to +breed children, fulfil not the duty of their vocation, and rebel +against the commands of God. Here are maxims for you, prodigiously +contrary to those of your convents. What will become of your St +Catharines, your St Theresas, your St Claras, and the whole bead-roll +of your holy virgins and widows; who, if they are to be judged by +this system of virtue, will be found to have been infamous creatures, +that passed their whole lives in most abominable libertinism. + +I KNOW not what your thoughts may be, concerning a doctrine so +extraordinary with respect to us; but I can truly inform you, Sir, +that the Turks are not so ignorant as we fancy them to be in matters +of politics, or philosophy, or even of gallantry. 'Tis true, that +military discipline, such as now practised in Christendom, does not +mightily suit them. A long peace has plunged them into an universal +sloth. Content with their condition, and accustomed to boundless +luxury, they are become great enemies to all manner of fatigues. +But, to make amends, the sciences flourish among them. The effendis +(that is to say, the learned) do very well deserve this name: They +have no more faith in the in inspiration of Mahomet, than in the +infallibility of the Pope. They make a frank profession of Deism +among themselves, or to those they can trust; and never speak of +their law but as of a politic institution, fit now to be observed by +wise men, however at first introduced by politicians and enthusiasts. + +IF I remember right, I think I have told you, in some former letter, +that, at Belgrade, we lodged with a great and rich effendi, a man of +wit and learning, and of a very agreeable humour. We were in his +house about a month, and he did constantly eat with us, drinking wine +without any scruple. As I rallied him a little on this subject, he +answered me, smiling, that all creatures in the world were made for +the pleasure of man; and that God would not have let the vine grow, +were it a sin to taste of its juice; but that, nevertheless, the law, +which forbids the use of it to the vulgar, was very wise, because +such sort of folks have not sense enough to take it with moderation. +This effendi appeared no stranger to the parties that prevail among +us: Nay, he seemed to have some knowledge of our religious disputes, +and even of our writers; and I was surprised to hear him ask, among +other things, how Mr Toland did. + +MY paper, large as it is, draws towards an end. That I may not go +beyond its limits, I must leap from religions to tulips, concerning +which you ask me news. Their mixture produces surprising effects. +But, what is to be observed most surprising, are the experiments of +which you speak concerning animals, and which are tried here every +day. The suburbs of Pera, Jophana, and Galata, are collections of +strangers from all countries of the universe. They have so often +intermarried, that this forms several races of people, the oddest +imaginable. There is not one single family of natives that can value +itself on being unmixed. You frequently see a person, whose father +was born a Grecian, the mother an Italian, the grandfather a +Frenchman, the grandmother an Armenian, and their ancestors English, +Muscovites, Asiatics, &c. + +THIS mixture produces creatures more extraordinary than you can +imagine; nor could I ever doubt, but there were several different +species of men; since the whites, the woolly and the long-haired +blacks, the small-eyed Tartars and Chinese, the beardless Brasilians, +and (to name no more) the oily-skinned yellow Nova Zemblians, have +as specific differences, under the same general kind, as grey-hounds, +mastiffs, spaniels, bull-dogs, or the race of my little Diana, if +nobody is offended at the comparison. Now, as the various +intermixing of these latter animals causes mongrels, so mankind have +their mongrels too, divided and subdivided into endless sorts. We +have daily proofs of it here, as I told you before. In the same +animal is not seldom remarked the Greek perfidiousness, the Italian +diffidence, the Spanish arrogance, the French loquacity; and, all of +a sudden, he is seized with a fit of English thoughtfulness, +bordering a little upon dulness, which many of us have inherited from +the stupidity of our Saxon progenitors. But the family which charms +me most, is that which proceeds from the fantastical conjunction of a +Dutch male with a Greek female. As these are natures opposite in +extremes, 'tis a pleasure to observe how the differing atoms are +perpetually jarring together in the children, even so as to produce +effects visible in their external form. They have the large black +eyes of the country, with the fat, white, fishy flesh of Holland, and +a lively air streaked with dulness. At one and the same time, they +shew that love of expensiveness, so universal among the Greeks, and +an inclination to the Dutch frugality. To give an example of this; +young women ruin themselves, to purchase jewels for adorning their +heads, while they have not the heart to buy new shoes, or rather +slippers for their feet, which are commonly in a tattered condition; +a thing so contrary to the taste of our English women, that it is for +shewing how neatly their feet are dressed, and for shewing this only, +they are so passionately enamoured with their hoop petticoats. I +have abundance of other singularities to communicate to you; but I am +at the end, both of my French and my paper. + + +CONCERNING + +Monsieur de la ROCHEFOUCAULT'S Maxim--_"That marriage is sometimes +"convenient but never delightful."_ + +IT may be thought a presumptuous attempt in me to controvert a maxim +advanced by such a celebrated genius as Monsieur Rochefoucault, and +received with such implicit faith by a nation which boasts of +superior politeness to the rest of the world, and which, for a long +time past, has prescribed the rules of gallantry to all Europe. + +NEVERTHELESS, prompted by that ardour which truth inspires, I dare to +maintain the contrary, and resolutely insist, that there are some +marriages formed by love, which may be delightful, where the +affections are sympathetic. Nature has presented us with pleasures +suitable to our species, and we need only to follow her impulse, +refined by taste, and exalted by a lively and agreeable imagination, +in order to attain the most perfect felicity of which human nature is +susceptible. Ambition, avarice, vanity, when enjoyed in the most +exquisite perfection, can yield but trifling and tasteless pleasures, +which will be too inconsiderable to affect a mind of delicate +sensibility. + +WE may consider the gifts of fortune as so many steps necessary to +arrive at felicity, which we can never attain, being obliged to set +bounds to our desires, and being only gratified with some of her +frivolous favours, which are nothing more than the torments of life, +when they are considered as the necessary means to acquire or +preserve a more exquisite felicity. + +THIS felicity consists alone in friendship, founded on mutual esteem, +fixed by gratitude, supported by inclination, and animated by the +tender solicitudes of love, whom the ancients have admirably +described under the appearance of a beautiful infant: It is pleased +with infantine amusements; it is delicate and affectionate, incapable +of mischief, delighted with trifles; its pleasures are gentle and +innocent. + +THEY have given a very different representation of another passion, +too gross to be mentioned, but of which alone men, in general, are +susceptible. This they have described under the figure of a satyr, +who has more of the brute than of the man in his composition. By +this fabulous animal they have expressed a passion, which is the real +foundation of all the fine exploits of modish gallantry, and which +only endeavours to glut its appetite with the possession of the +object which is most lovely in its estimation: A passion founded in +injustice, supported by deceit, and attended by crimes, remorse, +jealousy, and contempt. Can such an affection be delightful to a +virtuous mind? Nevertheless, such is the delightful attendant on all +illicit engagements; gallants are obliged to abandon all those +sentiments of honour which are inseparable from a liberal education, +and are doomed to live wretchedly in the constant pursuit of what +reason condemns, to have all their pleasures embittered by remorse, +and to be reduced to the deplorable condition of having renounced +virtue, without being able to make vice agreeable. + +IT is impossible to taste the delights of love in perfection, but in +a well assorted marriage; nothing betrays such a narrowness of mind +as to be governed by words. What though custom, for which good +reasons may be assigned, has made the words _husband_ and _wife_ +somewhat ridiculous? A husband, in common acceptation, signifies a +jealous brute, a surly tyrant; or, at best, a weak fool, who may be +made to believe any thing. A wife is a domestic termagant, who is +destined to deceive or torment the poor devil of a husband. The +conduct of married people, in general, sufficiently justifies these +two characters. + +BUT, as I said before, why should words impose upon us? A well +regulated marriage is not like these connections of interest or +ambition. A fond couple, attached to each other by mutual affection, +are two lovers who live happily together. Though the priest +pronounces certain words, though the lawyer draws up certain +instruments; yet I look on these preparatives in the same light as a +lover considers a rope-ladder which he fastens to his mistress's +window: If they can but live together, what does it signify at what +price, or by what means, their union is accomplished. Where love is +real, and, well founded, it is impossible to be happy but in the +quiet enjoyment of the beloved object; and the price at which it is +obtained, does not lessen the vivacity and delights of a passion, +such as my imagination conceives. If I was inclined to romance, I +would not picture images of true happiness in Arcadia. I am not +prudish enough to confine the delicacy of affection to wishes only. +I would open my romance with the marriage of a couple united by +sentiment, taste, and inclination. Can we conceive a higher +felicity, than the blending of their interests and lives in such an +union? The lover has the pleasure of giving his mistress the last +testimony of esteem and confidence; and she, in return, commits her +peace and liberty to his protection. Can they exchange more dear and +affectionate pledges? Is it not natural, to give the most +incontestible proofs of that tenderness with which our minds are +impressed? I am sensible, that some are so nice as to maintain, that +the pleasures of love are derived from the dangers and difficulties +with which it is attended; they very pertly observe, that a rose +would not be a rose without thorns. There are a thousand insipid +remarks of this sort, which make so little impression on me, that I +am persuaded, was I a lover, the dread of injuring my mistress would +make me unhappy, if the enjoyment of her was attended with danger to +herself. + +TWO married lovers lead very different lives: They have the pleasure +to pass their time in a successive intercourse of mutual obligations +and marks of benevolence; and they have the delight to find, that +each forms the entire happiness of the beloved object. Herein +consists perfect felicity. The most trivial concerns of economy +become noble and elegant, when they are exalted by sentiments of +affection: To furnish an apartment, is not barely to furnish an +apartment; it is a place where I expect my lover: To prepare a +supper, is not merely giving orders to my cook; it is an amusement to +regale the object I dote on. In this light, a woman considers these +necessary occupations, as more lively and affecting pleasures than +those gaudy sights which amuse the greater part of the sex, who are +incapable of true enjoyment. + +A FIXED and affectionate attachment softens every emotion of the +soul, and renders every object agreeable which presents itself to the +happy lover (I mean one who is married to his mistress). If he +exercises any employment, the fatigues of the camp, the troubles of +the court, all become agreeable, when he reflects, that he endures +these inconveniences to serve the object of his affections. If +fortune is favourable to him, (for success does not depend on merit) +all the advantages it procures, are so many tributes which he thinks +due to the charms of the lovely fair; and, in gratifying this +ambition, he feels a more lively pleasure, and more worthy of an +honest man, than that of raising his fortune, and gaining public +applause. He enjoys glory, titles, and riches, no farther than as +they regard her he loves; and when he attracts the approbation of a +senate, the applause of an army, or the commendation of his prince, +it is her praises which ultimately flatter him. + +IN a reverse of fortune, he has the consolation of retiring to one +who is affected by his disgrace; and, locked in her embraces, he has +the satisfaction of giving utterance to the following tender +reflections: "My happiness does not depend on the caprice of fortune; +"I have a constant asylum against inquietude. Your esteem renders me +"insensible of the injustice of a court, or the ingratitude of a +"master; and my losses afford me a kind of pleasure, since they +"furnish me with fresh proofs of your virtue and affection. Of what +"use is grandeur to those who are already happy? We have no need of +"flatterers, we want no equipages; I reign in your affections, and I +"enjoy every delight in the possession of your person." + +IN short, there is no situation in which melancholy may not be +assuaged by the company of the beloved object. Sickness itself is +not without its alleviation, when we have the pleasure of being +attended by her we love. I should never conclude, if I attempted to +give a detail of all the delights of an attachment, wherein we meet +with every thing which can flatter the senses with the most lively +and diffusive raptures. But I must not omit taking notice of the +pleasure of beholding the lovely pledges of a tender friendship, +daily growing up, and of amusing ourselves, according to our +different sexes, in training them to perfection. We give way to this +agreeable instinct of nature, refined by love. In a daughter, we +praise the beauty of her mother; in a son, we commend the +understanding, and the appearance of innate probity, which we esteem +in his father. It is a pleasure which, according to Moses, the +Almighty himself enjoyed, when he beheld the work of his hands; and +saw that all was good. + +SPEAKING of Moses, I cannot forbear observing, that the primitive +plan of felicity infinitely surpasses all others; and I cannot form +an idea Of paradise, more like a paradise, than the state in which +our first parents were placed: That proved of short duration, because +they were unacquainted with the world; and it is for the same reason, +that so few love matches prove happy. Eve was like a silly child, +and Adam was not much enlightened. When such people come together, +their being amorous is to no purpose, for their affections must +necessarily be short-lived. In the transports of their love, they +form supernatural ideas of each other. The man thinks his mistress +an angel, because she is handsome; and she is enraptured with the +merit of her lover, because he adores her. The first decay of her +complexion deprives her of his adoration; and the husband, being no +longer an adorer, becomes hateful to her who had no other foundation +for her love. By degrees, they grow disgustful (sic) to each other; +and, after the example of our first parents, they do not fail to +reproach each other With the crime of their mutual imbecillity (sic). +After indifference, contempt comes apace, and they are convinced, +that they must hate each other, because they are married. Their +smallest defects swell in each other's view, and they grow blind to +those charms, which, in any other object, would affect them. A +commerce founded merely on sensation can be attended with no other +consequences. + +A MAN, when he marries the object of his affections, should forget +that she appears to him adorable, and should consider her merely as a +mortal, subject to disorders, caprice, and ill temper; he should arm +himself with fortitude, to bear the loss of her beauty, and should +provide himself with a fund of complaisance, which is requisite to +support a constant intercourse with a person, even of the highest +understanding and the greatest equanimity. The wife, on the other +hand, should not expect a continued course of adulation and +obedience, she should dispose herself to obey in her turn with a good +grace: A science very difficult to attain, and consequently the more +estimable in the opinion of a man who is sensible of the merit. She +should endeavour to revive the charms of the mistress, by the +solidity and good sense of the friend. + +WHEN a pair who entertain such rational sentiments, are united by +indissoluble bonds, all nature smiles upon them, and the most common +objects appear delightful. In, my opinion, such a life is infinitely +more happy and more voluptuous, than the most ravishing and best +regulated gallantry. + +A WOMAN who is capable of reflection, can consider a gallant in no +other light than that of a seducer, who would take advantage of her +weakness, to procure a momentary pleasure, at the expence of her +glory, her peace, her honour, and perhaps, her life. A highwayman, +who claps a pistol to your breast, to rob you of your purse, is less +dishonest and less guilty; and I have so good an opinion of myself, +as to believe, that if I was a man, I should be as capable of +assuming the character of an assassin, as that of defiling an honest +woman, esteemed in the world, and happy in her husband, by inspiring +her with a passion, to which she must sacrifice her honour, her +tranquillity, and her virtue. + +SHOULD I make her despicable, who appears amiable in my eyes? Should +I reward her tenderness, by making her abhorred by her family, by +rendering her children indifferent to her, and her husband +detestible (sic)? I believe that these reflections would have +appeared to me in as strong a light, if my sex had not rendered them +excusable in such cases; and I hope, that I should have had more +sense, than to imagine vice the less vicious, because it is the +fashion. + +N. B. I AM much pleased with the Turkish manners; a people, though +ignorant, yet, in my judgment, extremely polite. A gallant, +convicted of having debauched a married Woman, is regarded as a +pernicious being, and held in the same abhorrence as a prostitute +with us. He is certain of never making his fortune; and they would +deem it scandalous to confer any considerable employment on a man +suspected of having committed such enormous injustice. + +WHAT would these moral people think of our antiknights-errant, who +are ever in pursuit of adventures to reduce innocent virgins to +distress, and to rob virtuous women of their honour; who regard +beauty, youth, rank, nay virtue itself, as so many incentives, which +inflame their desires, and render their efforts more eager; and who, +priding themselves in the glory of appearing expert seducers, forget, +that with all their endeavours, they can only acquire the second rank +in that noble order, the devil having long since been in possession +of the first? + +OUR barbarous manners are so well calculated for the establishment of +vice and wretchedness, which are ever inseparable, that it requires a +degree of understanding and sensibility, infinitely above the common, +to relish the felicity of a marriage, such as I have described. +Nature is so weak, and so prone to change, that it is difficult to +maintain the best grounded constancy, in the midst of those +dissipations, which our ridiculous customs have rendered unavoidable. + +IT must pain an amorous husband, to see his wife take all the +fashionable liberties; it seems harsh not to allow them; and, to be +conformable, he is reduced to the necessity of letting every one take +them that will; to hear her impart the charms of her understanding to +all the world, to see her display her bosom at noon-day, to behold +her bedeck herself for the ball, and for the play, and attract a +thousand and a thousand (sic) adorers, and listen to the insipid +flattery of a thousand and a thousand coxcombs. Is it possible to +preserve an esteem for such a creature? or, at least, must not her +value be greatly diminished by such a commerce? + +I MUST still resort to the maxims of the East, where the most +beautiful women are content to confine the power of their charms to +him who has a right to enjoy them; and they are too sincere, not to +confess, that they think themselves capable of exciting desires. + +I RECOLLECT a conversation that I had with a lady of great quality at +Constantinople, (the most amiable woman I ever knew in my life, and +with whom I afterwards contracted the closest friendship.) She +frankly acknowledged, that she was satisfied with her husband. What +libertines, said she, you Christian ladies are! you are permitted to +receive visits from as many men as you think proper, and your laws +allow you the unlimited use of love and wine. I assured her, that +she was wrong informed, and that it was criminal to listen to, or to +love, any other than our husbands. "Your husbands are great fools," +she replied smiling, "to be content with so precarious a fidelity. +"Your necks, your eyes, your hands, your conversation are all for the +"public, and what do you pretend to reserve for them? Pardon me, +"my pretty sultana," she added, embracing me, "I have a strong +"inclination to believe all that you tell me, but you would impose +"impossibilities upon me. I know the filthiness of the infidels; I +"perceive that you are ashamed, and I will say no more." + +I FOUND so much good sense and propriety in what she said, that I +knew not how to contradict her; and, at length, I acknowledged, that +she had reason to prefer the Mahometan manners to our ridiculous +customs, which form a confused medley of the rigid maxims of +Christianity, with all the libertinism (sic) of the Spartans: And, +notwithstanding our absurd manners, I am persuaded, that a woman who +is determined to place her happiness in her husband's affections, +should abandon the extravagant desire of engaging public adoration; +and that a husband, who tenderly loves his wife, should, in his turn, +give up the reputation of being a gallant. You find that I am +supposing a very extraordinary pair; it is not very surprising, +therefore, that such an union should be uncommon in those countries, +where it is requisite to conform to established customs, in order to +be happy. + + +VERSES + +_Written in the Chiask, at Pera, overlooking Constantinople, December +26th, 1718._ + +By Lady MARY WORTLEY MONTAGUE. + +GIVE me, great God! Said I, a little farm, +In summer shady, and in winter warm; +Where a clear spring gives birth to murm'ring brooks, +By nature gliding down the mossy rocks. +Not artfully by leading pipes convey'd, +Or greatly falling in a forc'd _cascade_, +Pure and unsully'd winding thro' the shade. +All-bounteous Heaven has added to my prayer +A softer climate, and a purer air. + +OUR frozen ISLE now chilling winter binds, +Deform'd by rains, and rough with blasting winds; +The wither'd woods grow white with hoary frost, +By driving storms their verdant beauty lost, +The trembling birds their leafless covert shun, +And seek, in distant climes a warmer sun: +The water-nymphs their silent urns deplore, +Ev'n _Thames_ benum'd's a river now no more: +The barren meads no longer yield delight, +By glist'ring snows made painful to the sight. + +HERE summer reigns with one eternal smile, +Succeeding harvests bless the happy soil. +Fair fertile fields, to whom indulgent Heaven +Has ev'ry charm of ev'ry season given; +No killing cold deforms the beauteous year, +The springing flowers no coming winter fear. +But as the parent _Rose_ decays and dies, +The infant-buds with brighter colour rise, +And with fresh sweets the mother's scent supplies, +Near them the _Violet_ grows with odours blest, +And blooms in more than Tyrian purple drest; +The rich _Jonquils_ their golden beams display, +And shine in glories emulating day; +The peaceful groves their verdant leaves retain, +The streams still murmur undefil'd with rain, +And tow'ring greens adorn the fruitful plain. +The warbling kind uninterrupted sing, +Warm'd with enjoyments of perpetual spring. + +HERE, at my window, I at once survey +The crowded city and resounding sea; +In distant views the _Asian_ mountains rise, +And lose their snowy summits in the skies; +Above those mountains proud _Olympus_ towers, +The parliamental seat of heavenly powers. +New to the sight, my ravish'd eyes admire +Each gilded crescent and each antique spire, +The marble mosques, beneath whose ample domes +Fierce warlike _sultans_ sleep in peaceful tombs; +Those lofty structures, once the Christians boast, +Their names, their beauty, and their honours lost; +Those altars bright with gold and sculpture grac'd, +By barb'rous zeal of savage foes defac'd: +_Sophia_ alone her ancient name retains, +Tho' unbelieving vows her shrine profanes; +Where holy saints have died in sacred cells, +Where monarchs pray'd, the frantic _Dervise_ dwells. +How art thou fall'n, imperial city, low! +Where are thy hopes of _Roman_ glory now? +Where are thy palaces by prelates rais'd? +Where _Grecian_ artists all their skill display'd, +Before the happy sciences decay'd; +So vast, that youthful kings might here reside, +So splendid, to content a patriarch's pride; +Convents where emperors profess'd of old, +Their labour'd pillars that their triumphs told; +Vain monuments of them that once were great, +Sunk undistinguish'd by one common fate; +One little spot, the tenure small contains, +Of _Greek_ nobility, the poor remains. +Where other _Helens_ with like powerful charms, +Had once engag'd the warring world in arms; +Those names which royal ancestors can boast, +In mean mechanic arts obscurely lost: +Those eyes a second _Homer_ might inspire, +Fix'd at the loom destroy their useless fire; +Griev'd at a view which struck upon my mind +The short-liv'd vanity of human kind. + +IN gaudy objects I indulge my sight, +And turn where _Eastern pomp_ gives gay delight; +See the vast train in various habits drest, +By the bright scimitar and sable vest, +The proud vizier distinguish'd o'er the rest; +Six slaves in gay attire his bridle hold, +His bridle rich with gems, and stirrups gold; +His snowy steed adorn'd with costly pride, +Whole troops of soldiers mounted by his side, +These top the plumy crest Arabian courtiers guide. +With artful duty, all decline their eyes, +No bellowing shouts of noisy crowds arise; +Silence, in solemn state, the march attends, +Till at the dread divan the slow procession ends. + +YET not these prospects all profusely gay, +The gilded navy that adorns the sea, +The rising city in confusion fair, +Magnificently form'd irregular; +Where woods and palaces at once surprise, +Gardens on gardens, domes on domes arise, +And endless beauties tire the wand'ring eyes; +So sooth my wishes, or so charm my mind, +As this _retreat_ secure from human kind. +No knave's successful craft does spleen excite, +No coxcomb's tawdry splendour shocks my sight; +No mob-alarm awakes my female fear, +No praise my mind, nor envy hurts my ear, +Ev'n fame itself can hardly reach me here: +Impertinence with all her tattling train, +Fair-sounding flattery's delicious bane; +Censorious folly, noisy party-rage +The thousand tongues with which she must engage, +Who dares have _virtue_ in a _vicious_ age. + + +VERSES + +TO THE Lady MARY WORTLEY MONTAGUE, + +By Mr POPE. + +I. + +IN beauty or wit, +No mortal as yet +To question your empire has dar'd; +But men of discerning +Have thought that in learning, +To yield to a lady was hard. + +II. + +Impertinent schools, +With musty dull rules +Have reading to females deny'd; +So papists refuse +The BIBLE to use, +Lest flocks should be wise as their guide. + +III. + +'Twas a woman at first +(Indeed she was curst) +In _knowledge_ that tasted _delight_; +And sages agree, +The laws should decree +To the first possessor the right. + +IV. + +Then bravely, fair dame, +Renew the old claim, +Which to your whole sex does belong, +And let men receive, +From a second bright Eve, +The knowledge of _right_ and of _wrong_. + +V. + +But if the first Eve +Hard doom did receive, +When only _one apple_ had she, +What a punishment new +Shall be found out for you, +Who tasting have robb'd the _whole tree_? + + +A SUMMARY OF THE CONTENTS. + +LET. 1. _From Rotterdam_.--Voyage to Helvoetsluys--general view + of Rotterdam--remarks on the female dresses there. + +LET. II. _From the Hague_.--The pleasure of travelling in + Holland--the Hague--the Voorhout there. + +LET. III. _From Nimeguen_.--Nimeguen compared to Nottingham--the + Belvidera--the bridge--ludicrous service at the French + church. + +LET. IV. _From Cologn_.--Journey from Nimeguen to Cologn--the + Jesuits church--plate--relics--the sculls of the eleven + thousand virgins. + +LET. V. _From Nuremberg_.--Difference between the free towns, + and those under absolute princes--the good effects of + sumptuary laws--humorous remarks on relics, and the + absurd representations in the churches at Nuremberg. + +LET. VI. _From Ratisbon_.--Ridiculous disputes concerning + punctilios among the envoys at the Diet--the churches + and relics--silver image of the Trinity. + +LET. VII. _From Vienna_.--Voyage from Ratisbon down the Danube-- + general description of Vienna--the houses--furniture-- + entertainments--the Fauxbourg--Count Schoonbourn's + villa. + +LET. VIII. _Vienna_.--Opera in the garden of the Favorita-- + playhouse and representation of the story of + Amphitrion. + +LET. IX. _Vienna_.--Dress of the ladies--Lady M's reception at + court--person of the empress--customs of the + drawing-room--the emperor--empress Amelia,--how seated + at table--maids of honour, their office and + qualifications--dressers--audience of the + empress-mother--her extraordinary piety--mourning dress + of the ladies at Vienna--audience of the empress + Amelia--shooting-match by ladies. + +LET. X. _Vienna_.--Vienna a paradise for old women--different + acceptation of the word _reputation_ at London and at + Vienna--neither coquettes nor prudes at Vienna--every + lady possessed both of a nominal and real husband-- + gallant overture to lady M. to comply with this custom. + +LET. XI. _Vienna_--Phlegmatic disposition of the Austrians-- + humorous anecdote of a contest upon a point of ceremony + --widows not allowed any rank at Vienna--pride of + ancestry--marriage portions limited--different + treatment of ambassadors and envoys at Court. + +LET. XII. _Vienna_.--Dress and assemblies of the Austrian + ladies--gala days--convent of St Lawrence--wooden head + of our Saviour--dress of the Nuns--their amusements-- + particulars concerning a beautiful Nun--reflections on + the monastic state, &c. + +LET. XIII. _Vienna_.--Description of the emperor's repository. + +LET. XIV. _From Prague_.--General state of Bohemia--Prague + described with reference to Vienna. + +LET. XV. _From Leipzig_.--Dangerous journey from Prague to + Leipzig--character of Dresden--the Saxon and Austrian + ladies compared--anecdotes of the countess of Cozelle-- + Leipzig and its fair described. + +LET. XVI. _From Brunswick_.--Brunswick, for what considerable. + +LET. XVII. _From Hanover_.--Bad regululations of the post in + Germany--character of the young prince (afterwards king + George II.)--short account of Hanover--view of the + country in travelling through Germany, compared with + England. + +LET. XVIII. _Hanover_.--Description of the women at Hanover--the + traineaus or snow-sledges described--particulars of the + empress of Germany. + +LET. XIX. _Blankenburg_.--Motive of Lady M's journey to + Blankenburg--her reception by the duchess of + Blankenburg--the description of Hanover continued-- + perfection to which fruit is brought by means of stoves + at Herenhausen--recommendation of chamber-stoves. + +LET. XX. _From Vienna_.--Diversions of the carnival--remarks on + the music and balls--the Italian comedy--the air and + weather at Vienna--the markets and provisions. + +LET. XXI. _Vienna_.--Lady M's audience of leave--absurd taste for + dwarfs at the German courts--reflections on this taste + --remarks on the inhabitants of Vienna--a word or two + concerning prince Eugene, and the young prince of + Portugal. + +LET. XXII. _Vienna_.--Reflections on her intended journey to + Constantinople. + +LET. XXIII. _From Peterwaradin_.--Journey from Vienna hither-- + reception at Raab--visit from the bishop of Temeswar, + with his character--description of Raab--its + revolutions--remarks on the state of Hungary, with the + Emperor Leopold's persecution of his protestant + Hungarian subjects--description of Buda--its + revolutions--the inhabitants of Hungary--Essec + described--the Hungarian ladies and their dress. + +LET. XXIV. _From Belgrade_.--Character of the Rascian soldiers-- + their priests--appearance of the field of Carlowitz, + after the late battle between prince Eugene and the + Turks--reception at, and account of Belgrade--the + murder of the late Bassa--character of Achmet Beg. + +LET. XXV. _From Adrianople_.--Description of the deserts and + inhabitants of Servia--Nissa the capital--cruel + treatment of the baggage-carriers by the janizaries-- + some account of Sophia--Philippopolis--fine country + about Adrianople. + +LET. XXVI. _Adrianople_.--Entertaining account of the baths at + Sophia, and Lady M's reception at them. + +LET. XXVII. _Adrianople_.--Why our account of the Turks are so + imperfect--oppressed condition of the Servians--teeth + money, what--character of the Turkish effendis--farther + particulars of Achmet Beg--Mahometism like + Christianity, divided into many sectaries--remarks on + some of their notions--religion of the Arnounts-- + conjectures relating to Trajan's gate--present view of + the country. + +LET. XXVIII. _From Adrianople_.--Marriage of the grand signior's + eldest daughter--the nature of the Turkish government-- + grand signior's procession to mosque--his person + described--particulars relating to the French + ambassador's lady--character and behaviour of the + janizaries--the janizaries formidable to the seraglio. + +LET. XXIX. _Adrianople_.--Lady M. describes her Turkish dress--the + persons and manners of the Turklsh ladies--their dress + when they go abroad--their address at intriguing-- + possessed of more liberty than is generally imagined-- + the plurality of wives allowed by the Koran seldom + indulged. + +LET. XXX. _Adrianople_.--Manner in which the Turks pass their time + --the present pastoral manners of the Easterns, a + confirmation of the descriptions in the Grecian + poets--give great light into many scripture + passages--specimen of Turkish poetry--a version given + by Lady M. in the English style. + +LET. XXXI. _Adrianople_.--The plague not so terrible as represented + --account of the Turkish method of inoculating the + small-pox. + +LET. XXXII. _Adrianople_.--Description of the camel--their use, and + method of managing them--the buffalo--the Turkish + horses--their veneration for storks--the Turkish + houses--why Europeans so ignorant Of the insides of the + Turkish houses--their gardens--their mosques and hanns. + +LET. XXXIII. _Adrianople_.--Lady M's visit to the grand vizier's + lady--her person described, and manner of entertaining + her guest--the victuals, &c.--visit to the kahya's + lady, the fair Fatima--her person, dress, and engaging + behaviour--her waiting-women--the Turkish music. + +LET. XXXIV. _Adrianople_.--Description of Adrianople--the exchange-- + the principal traders Jews--the Turkish camp-- + procession of the grand signior going to command his + troops in person--the manner by which Turkish lovers + shew their affection for their mistresses--description + of sultan Selim's mosque--the seraglio--the young + princes. + +LET. XXXV. _From Constantinople_.--Journey from Adrianople--the + little seraglio--the Greek church at Selivrea--singular + lodging of a hogia or schoolmaster--general view of + Pera--Constantinople--their burial places and tombs-- + manner of renewing a marriage after a divorce-- + unmarried women, why supposed in Turkey to die in a + state of reprobation--this notion compared with the + catholic veneration for celibacy--the Eastern taste for + antiquities. + +LET. XXXVI. _From Belgrade Village_.--Lady M's agreeable situation + there--diary of her way of spending the week, compared + with the modish way of spending time. + +LET. XXXVII. _Belgrade Village_.--Turkish female slaves described-- + voyages to the Levant filled with untruths--balm of + Mecca, its extraordinary effects on the ladies faces-- + Turkish ladies great dealers in magic charms, to + command love. + +LET. XXXVIII._From Pera of Constantinople_.--Barrenness disgraceful + among the Turkish ladies--often destroy themselves by + quackery on this account--naturally prolific--the + Turkish houses why liable to fire--mildness of the + winter at Constantinople--Turkish punishment for + convicted liars. + +LET. XXXIX. _Pera of Constantinople_.--Lady M. brought to bed-- + visits the sultana Hafiten--anecdotes of that lady--her + dress--entertainment--story of the sultan's throwing a + handkerchief contradicted--amusements of the seraglio-- + the sultana Hafiten's gardens, bed chamber, and + slaves--the Arabian tales, a true representation of + Eastern manners--magnificence of the Turkish harams-- + visit to the fair Fatima--the characters of the sultana + Hafiten and Fatima compared--story of Fatima-- + magnificence of her habitation. + +LET. XL. _Pera_.--Turkish love-letter, with a translation--the + confusion of tongues spoke at Pera--Lady M. in danger + of losing her English. + +LET. XLI. --Suburbs of Constantinople--Turkish water-man-- + Constantinople, why not easy to be seen by Europeans-- + pleasure of rowing down the Bosphorus--view of + Constantinople from the water--the seraglio--Sancta + Sophia--the mosque Of sultan Solyman--of sultana + Valida--the atlerdan--the brazen serpentine column--the + exchange--the bisisten--humanity of the Turks towards + their slaves--the historical pillar fallen down--the + dervises--their devotion and dancing. + +LET. XLII. --Mr Hill's account of the sweating pillar, and of the + Turkish ladies, contradicted--manner of living of the + Turkish wives--ceremony of receiving a Turkish bride at + the bagnio--no public cognizance taken of murder-- + generally compounded for by money--story of a Christian + lady taken prisoner by a Turkish admiral, who chose to + continue with and marry her ravisher--the Turks great + venerators of truth--the Eastrn manner of adopting + children--account of the Armenians--their strict + observance of fasts--summary view of their religion-- + ceremonies at an Armenian marriage. + +LET. XLIII. _From Constantinople_.--Observations on the accounts + given by Sir Paul Rycaut and Gemelli--the canal between + Constantinople and Calcedon--the precarious nature of + human grandeur in Turky (sic)--description of the house + of the grand vizier who was killed at Peterwaradin-- + moral reflections on the difference between the taste + of the Europeans and the Easterns. + +LET. XLIV. _From Tunis_.--Vovage from Constantinople--the + Hellespont, and castles of Sestos and Abydos-- + reflections on the story of Hero and Leander--the + burial-places of Hecuba and Achilles--antiquities-- + habits of the Greek peasants--conjectures as to the + ruins of a large city--remarks on the face of the + country illustrated by reference to passages from + Homer--Troy, no remains of it existing--ruins of old + Constantinople--Latin inscriptions, and remains of + antiquity--isle of Tenedos--Mytilene--Lesbos--Scio, and + its inhabitants--promontory of Lunium the present Cape + Colonna--temple of Theseus, how destroyed present + condition of the Morea, the ancient Peloponnesus-- + Candia--reflections on the contrast between ancient and + modern Greece--Trinacria--Malta--arrival at Tunis--face + of the country--manner of celebrating the Mahometan + ramadan or Lent--the natives--ruins of the aqueduct of + Carthage--description and chronological anecdotes of + the city of Tunis--ruins of Carthage. + +LET. XLV. _From Genoa_.--Description of Genoa and its inhabitants + --Cizisbeis, the nature of their employment, and + occasion of their institution--the government--palaces + --paintings--remark on their fondness for the + representation of crucifixes--church of St Lawrence, + and the famous emerald plate--their churches not to be + compared with the Sancta Sophia at Constantinople. + +LET. XLVI. _From Turin_.--Character of Turin, its palaces and + churches--Lady M. waits on the queen--persons of the + king and prince of Piedmont described. + +LET. XLVII. _From Lyons_.--Journey from Turin to Lyons--passage over + mount Cenis--the frontier towns between Savoy and + France. + +LET. XLVIII. _From Lyons_.--Reflections on the insipidity of female + visits--the inscriptions on brass tables on each side + of the town-house at Lyons--remains of antiquity-- + cathedral of St John--critique on the statue of Louis + XIV. + +LET. XLIX. _From Paris_.--Miserable condition of the French + peasants--palace of Fontainbleau--fair of St + Lawrence--opera house--general character of the French + actors--comparison between the French and English + ladies. + +LET. L. _Paris_.--General remarks on the palace of Versailles-- + Trianon--Marli--St Cloud--paintings at the house of the + Duke d'Antin--the Thuilleries--the Louvre--behaviour of + Mr Law at Paris--Paris compared with London. + +LET. LI. _From Dover_.--Ludicrous distresses in the passage to + Dover--reflections on travelling--brief comparison + between England and the rest of the world in general. + +LET. LII. _Dover_.--Reflections on the fates of John Hughes and + Sarah Drew--epitaph on them. + +LET. LIII. --Character of Mrs D ---- and humorous representation + of her intended marriage with a greasy curate-- + anecdotes of another couple--remarks on the abuse of + the word _nature_; applied to the case of a husband who + insisted on his wife suckling her own child-- + observations on the forbidding countenance of a worthy + gentleman. + +LET. LIV. _From Vienna_.--Remarks on some illustrious personages + at the court of Vienna--character of the poet Rousseau + --alchymy much studied at Vienna--prince Eugene's + library. + +LET. LV. --Victory of prince Eugene over the Turks, and the + surrender of Belgrade--the news how received at + Constantinople--contrast between European and Asiatic + manners--estimate of the pleasures of the seraglio-- + observations on Mr Addison being appointed secretary of + state--Mr Addison, Mr Pope, and Mr Congreve, in what + respects three happy poets--reflections on the Iliad, + and Mr Pope's translation of it. + +LET. LVI. _From Florence_.--Remarks on the road between Bologna + and Florence--visit to the monastery of La Trappe, with + reflections on the monastic life--occasion of the + institution of the order of La Trappe--the burning + mountains near Fierenzuola--general description of + Florence--the grand gallery--the statues of Antinous + and Venus de Medicis--the first sketches of Raphael's + cartoons--envious behaviour of modern painters, in + defacing the productions of the ancients--digressions + to some reports raised by Mr P. concerning the writer. + +LET. LVII. --Remarks on Paris--reflections on staring and + grinning--character of the French people--criticism on + statues in the gardens of Versailles--the gardens + compared with the royal gardens of England. + +LET. LVIII. --Observations on the koran, and the conduct of the + Greek priests with regard to it--women not excluded + from Mahomet's paradise--who among the women excluded-- + the exhortations of Mahomet to the women, compared with + the monastic institution of popery--the sciences + cultivated among the Turks by the effendis--sentiments + of an intelligent one respecting abstinence from wine-- + strange mixture of different countries in the suburbs + of Constantinople--different species of men asserted-- + mongrels in the human species--why the English women so + fond of hoop-petticoats. + + +Inquiry into the truth of Monsieur Rochefoucault's maxim, "That +marriage is sometimes convenient, but never delightful." + +Verses written in the Chiask at Pera, overlooking Constantinople, +December 26th, 1718. By Lady Mary Wortley Montague. + +Verses to Lady Mary Wortley Montague. By Mr Pope. + + +F I N I S. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LADY +M--Y W--Y M--E*** + + +******* This file should be named 17520.txt or 17520.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/7/5/2/17520 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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