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diff --git a/17370.txt b/17370.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7971804 --- /dev/null +++ b/17370.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1423 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United +States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery, by William Henry Holmes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery + Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the + Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-82, + Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 393-425 + +Author: William Henry Holmes + +Release Date: December 22, 2005 [EBook #17370] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS *** + + + + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, +1st-hand-history.org, and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. This file was +produced from images generously made available by the +Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + + + SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION--BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY. + + + PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS + + OF THE + + UNITED STATES, + + DERIVED FROM IMPRESSIONS ON POTTERY. + + + by + WILLIAM H. HOLMES. + + * * * * * + * * * * + * * * * * + + + CONTENTS. + + Page. + Introductory 397 + First Group 401 + Second Group 404 + Third Group 413 + Fourth Group 416 + Fifth Group 417 + Sixth Group 418 + Miscellaneous 420 + + + ILLUSTRATIONS. + +[Transcriber's Note: +In the original text, the position of illustrations was determined by +available page space. For this e-text, each figure caption has been +placed directly _after_ the paragraph describing the figure. Figure 88, +which shared a caption with Figure 89, has been shifted down to join +Figure 90. The captions are identical except for number.] + +Plate XXXIX.--Pottery, with impressions of textile fabrics 397 + +Fig. 60.--Cord-marked vessel, Great Britain 399 + 61.--Cord and fabric marked vessel, Pennsylvania 400 + 62.--Combination of threads in coffee sacking 401 + 63.--Section of same 401 + 64.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of New York 402 + 65.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of District of Columbia 402 + 66.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Arizona 402 + 67.--Fabric from the caves of Kentucky 403 + 68.--Fabric from the Swiss Lake Dwellings 403 + 69.--Fabric from a mound in Ohio 403 + 70.--Fabric from a mound in Ohio 403 + 71.--Section of the same 403 + 72.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 405 + 73.--Section of same 405 + 74.--Diagram showing method of weaving 405 + 75.--Device for making the twist 406 + 76.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 406 + 77.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Georgia 407 + 78.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 407 + 79.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 408 + 80.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 408 + 81.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Arkansas 408 + 82.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Illinois 409 + 83.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Illinois 410 + 84.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Missouri 410 + 85.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 410 + 86.--Fabric from a copper celt, Iowa 411 + 87.--Fabric from Vancouver's Island 412 + 88.--Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland 412 + 89.--Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland 412 + 90.--Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland 413 + 91.--Section of third form of fabric 414 + 92.--Device for weaving same 414 + 93.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 414 + 94.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 414 + 95.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 414 + 96.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 415 + 97.--Fabric from the Northwest coast 415 + 98.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee 416 + 99.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Alabama 416 + 100.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Iowa 417 + 101.--Plaiting of an ancient sandal 417 + 102.--Braiding done by the Lake Dwellers 418 + 103.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of District of Columbia 419 + 104.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of North Carolina 419 + 105.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of North Carolina 420 + 106.--Net from the Lake Dwellings 420 + 107.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey 421 + 108.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey 421 + 109.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey 422 + 110.--Fabric from the ancient pottery of Pennsylvania 422 + 111.--Impression on the ancient pottery of Ohio 423 + 112.--Impression on the ancient pottery of New Jersey 423 + 113.--Impression on the ancient pottery of Alabama 423 + 114.--Impression on the ancient pottery of Maryland 424 + 115.--Impression on the ancient pottery of Alabama 425 + + + + + [Illustration: + BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY + ANNUAL REPORT 1882 PL. XXXIX + + 1. POTSHERD. 2. CLAY CAST. + 3. POTSHERD. 4. CLAY CAST. + 5. POTSHERD. 6. CLAY CAST. + + A. Hoen & Co. Litho[*illegible*], Baltimore. + + POTTERY WITH IMPRESSIONS OF TEXTILE FABRICS.] + + + + +PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS OF THE UNITED STATES, + + DERIVED FROM IMPRESSIONS ON POTTERY. + + By W. H. Holmes. + + + INTRODUCTORY. + +It is not my intention in this paper to make an exhaustive study of the +art of weaving as practiced by the ancient peoples of this country. To +do this would necessitate a very extended study of the materials used +and of the methods of preparing them, as well as of the arts of spinning +and weaving practiced by primitive peoples generally. This would be a +very wide field, and one which I have no need of entering. I may state +here, however, that the materials used by savages in weaving their +simple fabrics consist generally of the fibre of bark, flax, hemp, +nettles, and grasses, which is spun into thread of various sizes; or of +splints of wood, twigs, roots, vines, porcupine quills, feathers, and a +variety of animal tissues, either plaited or used in an untwisted state. +The articles produced are mats, baskets, nets, bags, plain cloths, and +entire garments, such as capes, hats, belts, and sandals. + +It has been noticed by a few authors that twisted or plaited cords, +as well as a considerable variety of woven fabrics, have been used +by primitive tribes in the manufacture and ornamentation of pottery. +Impressions of these made in the soft clay are frequently preserved on +very ancient ware, the original fabrics having long since crumbled to +dust. It is to these that I propose calling attention, their restoration +having been successfully accomplished in many hundreds of cases by +taking impressions in clay from the ancient pottery. + +The perfect manner in which the fabric in all its details of plaiting, +netting, and weaving can be brought out is a matter of astonishment; the +cloth itself could hardly make all the particulars of its construction +more manifest. + +The examples presented in the accompanying plate will be very +instructive, as the fragment of pottery is given on the left, with its +rather obscure intaglio impressions, and the clay cast on the right with +the cords of the fabric in high relief. The great body of illustrations +have been made in pen directly from the clay impressions, and, although +details are more distinctly shown than in the specimens themselves, +I believe that nothing is presented that cannot with ease be seen in the +originals. Alongside of these restorations I have placed illustrations +of fabrics from other primitive sources. + +There appears to be a pretty general impression that baskets of the +ordinary rigid character have been extensively used by our ancient +peoples in the manufacture of pottery to build the vessel in or upon; +but my investigations tend to show that such is not the case, and +that nets or sacks of pliable materials have been almost exclusively +employed. These have been applied to the surface of the vessel, +sometimes covering the exterior entirely, and at others only the body +or a part of the body. The interior surface is sometimes partially +decorated in the same manner. + +The nets or other fabrics used have generally been removed before the +vessel was burned or even dried. Professor Wyman, in speaking casually +of the cord-marked pottery of Tennessee, says: + + "It seems incredible that even an Indian would be so prodigal of time + and labor as to make the necessary quantity of well-twisted cord or + thread, and weave it into shape for the mere purpose of serving as a + mold which must be destroyed in making a single copy." + +This remark is, however, based upon a false assumption. The fact that +the net or fabric has generally been removed while the clay was still +soft being susceptible of easy proof. I have observed in many cases +that handles and ornaments have been added, and that impressed and +incised designs have been made in the soft clay _after_ the removal +of the woven fabric; besides this there would be no need of the support +of a net after the vessel had been fully finished and slightly hardened. +Furthermore, I have no doubt that these _textilia_ were employed as +much for the purpose of enhancing the appearance of the vessel as for +supporting it during the process of construction. I have observed, in +relation to this point, that in a number of cases, notably the great +salt vessels of Saline River, Illinois, the fabric has been applied +after the vessel was finished. I arrive at this conclusion from having +noticed that the loose threads of the net-like cover sag or festoon +toward the rim as if applied to the inverted vessel, Fig. 82. If the net +had been used to suspend the vessel while building, the threads would +necessarily have hung in the opposite direction. + +In support of the idea that ornament was a leading consideration in the +employment of these coarse fabrics, we have the well-known fact that +simple cord-markings, arranged to form patterns, have been employed +by many peoples for embellishment alone. This was a common practice +of the ancient inhabitants of Great Britain, as shown by Jewett. The +accompanying cut (Fig. 60) is copied from his work.[1] + + [Illustration: Fig. 60.--Ancient British vase with cord + ornamentation.] + + [Footnote 1: Jewett, Llewellynn: Grave mounds and their contents, + p. 92.] + +It is a remarkable fact that very few entire cord-marked vessels have +been obtained in this country, although fragments of such are very +plentiful. + +In Fig. 61 we have an ancient vase from Pennsylvania. It presents a +combination of net or basket markings and of separate cord-markings. +The regularity of the impressions upon the globular body indicates +almost unbroken contact with the interior surface of the woven vessel. +The neck and rim have apparently received finishing touches by +separately impressing cords or narrow bands of some woven fabric. + + [Illustration: Fig. 61.--Ancient fabric marked vessel, Pennsylvania.] + +Many examples show very irregular markings such as might have been made +by rolling the plastic vessel irregularly upon a woven surface, or by +molding it in an improvised sack made by tying up the margins of a piece +of cloth. + +It is necessary to distinguish carefully the cord and fabric markings +from the stamped designs so common in southern pottery, as well as +from the incised designs, some of which imitate fabric markings very +closely. + +I shall present at once a selection from the numerous examples of the +fabrics restored. For convenience of study I have arranged them in six +groups, some miscellaneous examples being added in a seventh group. +For comparison, a number of illustrations of both ancient and modern +textiles are presented. + +In regard to methods of manufacture but little need be said. The +appliances used have been extremely simple, the work in a vast majority +of cases having been done by hand. It is probable that in many instances +a simple frame has been used, the threads of the web or warp being +fixed at one end and those of the woof being carried through them by +the fingers or by a simple needle or shuttle. A loom with a device for +carrying the alternate threads of the warp back and forth may have been +used, but that form of fabric in which the threads are twisted in pairs +at each crossing of the woof could only have been made by hand. + +The probable methods will be dwelt upon more in detail as the groups +are presented. In verifying the various methods of fabrication I have +been greatly assisted by Miss Kate C. Osgood, who has successfully +reproduced, in cotton cord, all the varieties discovered, all the +mechanism necessary being a number of pins set in a drawing board or +frame, in the form of three sides of a rectangle, the warp being fixed +at one end only and the woof passing back and forth between the lateral +rows of pins, as shown in Fig. 74. + + + FIRST GROUP. + +Fig. 62 illustrates a small fragment of an ordinary coffee sack which I +take as a type of the first group. It is a loosely woven fabric of the +simplest construction; the two sets of threads being interwoven at right +angles to each other, alternate threads of one series passing over and +under each of the opposing series as shown in the section, Fig. 63. + + [Illustration: Fig. 62.--Type of Group one--portion of a coffee + sack.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 63.--Section.] + +It is a remarkable fact that loosely woven examples of this kind of +cloth are rarely, if ever, found among the impressions upon clay or in +the fabrics themselves where preserved by the salts of copper or by +charring. The reason of this probably is that the combination is such +that when loosely woven the threads would not remain in place under +tension, and the twisted and knotted varieties were consequently +preferred. + +It is possible that many of the very irregular impressions observed, in +which it is so difficult to trace the combinations of the threads, are +of distorted fabrics of this class. + +This stuff may be woven by hand in a simple frame, or by any of the +primitive forms of the loom. + +In most cases, so far as the impressions upon pottery show, when this +particular combination is employed, the warp is generally very heavy and +the woof comparatively light. This gives a cloth differing greatly from +the type in appearance; and when, as is usually the case, the woof +threads are beaten down tightly, obscuring those of the web, the +resemblance to the type is quite lost. + +Examples of this kind of weaving may be obtained from the fictile +remains of nearly all the Atlantic States. + +The specimen presented in Fig. 64 was obtained from a small fragment of +ancient pottery from the State of New York. + + [Illustration: Fig. 64.--Fabric impressed upon ancient pottery, New + York.] + +It is generally quite difficult to determine which set of threads is the +warp and which the woof. In most cases I have preferred to call the more +closely placed threads the woof, as they are readily beaten down by a +baton, whereas it would be difficult to manipulate the warp threads if +so closely placed. In the specimen illustrated, only the tightly woven +threads of the woof appear. The impression is not sufficiently distinct +to show the exact character of the thread, but there are indications +that it has been twisted. The regularity and prominence of the ridges +indicate a strong, tightly drawn warp. + +Fig. 65 represents a form of this type of fabric very common in +impressions upon the pottery of the Middle Atlantic States. This +specimen was obtained from a small potsherd picked up near Washington, +D.C. The woof or cross-threads are small and uniform in thickness, and +pass alternately over and under the somewhat rigid fillets of the web. +The apparent rigidity of these fillets may result from the tightening +of the series when the fabric was applied to the plastic surface of the +vessel. + + [Illustration: Fig. 65.--From a fragment of ancient pottery, + District of Columbia.] + +I present in Fig. 66 the only example of the impression of a woven +fabric found by the writer in two summers' work among the remains of the +ancient Cliff-Dwellers. It was obtained from the banks of the San Juan +River, in southeastern Utah. It is probably the imprint of the interior +surface of a more or less rigid basket, such as are to be seen among +many of the modern tribes of the Southwest. The character of the warp +cannot be determined, as the woof, which has been of moderately heavy +rushes or other untwisted, vegetable fillets, entirely hides it. + + [Illustration: Fig. 66.--From a fragment of ancient Cliff-house + pottery.] + +The caves of Kentucky have furnished specimens of ancient weaving of +much interest. One of these, a small fragment of a mat apparently made +from the fiber of bark, or a fibrous rush, is illustrated in Fig. 67. + + [Illustration: Fig. 67.--Fabric from a cave in Kentucky.] + +This simple combination of the web and woof has been employed by all +ancient weavers who have left us examples of their work. The specimen +given in Fig. 68 is the work of the ancient Lake-Dwellers of +Switzerland. It is a mat plaited or woven of strips of bast, and was +found at Robenhausen, having been preserved in a charred state.[2] +Keller gives another example of a similar fabric of much finer texture +in Fig. 8, Pl. CXXXVI. + + [Illustration: Fig. 68.--Fabric from Swiss Lake-Dwellings.] + + [Footnote 2: Keller: Lake-Dwellers. Fig. 2, Pl. CXXXIV.] + +An illustration of this form of fabric is given by Foster,[3] and +reproduced in Fig. 69. + + [Illustration: Fig. 69.--Cloth from a mound, Ohio.] + + [Footnote 3: Foster: Prehistoric Times.] + +In the same place this author presents another form of cloth shown in my +Fig. 70. In Fig. 71 we have a section of this fabric. These cloths, with +a number of other specimens, were taken from a mound on the west side of +the Great Miama River, Butler County, Ohio. The fabric in both samples +appears to be composed of some material allied to hemp. As his remarks +on these specimens, as well as on the general subject, are quite +interesting, I quote them somewhat at length. + + "The separation between the fibre and the wood appears to have been + as thorough and effectual as at this day by the process of rotting and + hackling. The thread, though coarse, is uniform in size, and regularly + spun. Two modes of weaving are recognized: In one, by the alternate + intersection of the warp and woof, and in the other, the weft is wound + once around the warp, a process which could not be accomplished except + by hand. In the illustration the interstices have been enlarged to + show the method of weaving, but in the original the texture was about + the same as that in coarse sail-cloth. In some of the Butler County + specimens there is evidently a fringed border." + + [Illustration: Fig. 70.--Cloth from a mound, Ohio.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 71.--Section.] + +In regard to the second specimen described, I would remark that it is a +very unusual form, no such combination of the parts having come to my +notice either in the ancient fabrics themselves or in the impressions on +pottery. In a very closely woven cloth it might be possible to employ +such a combination, each thread of the web being turned once around each +thread of the woof as shown in Fig. 71; but certainly it would work in +a very unsatisfactory manner in open fabrics. I would suggest that this +example may possibly belong to my second group, which, upon the surface, +would have a similar appearance. The combination of this form is shown +in the section, Fig. 73. + + + SECOND GROUP. + +It is not impossible, as previously stated, that open fabrics of the +plain type were avoided for the reason that the threads would not remain +in place if subjected to tension. A very ingenious method of fixing the +threads of open work, without resorting to the device of knotting has +been extensively employed in the manufacture of ancient textiles. The +simplest form of cloth in which this combination is used is shown in +Fig. 72. This example, which was obtained from a small fragment of +pottery found in Polk County, Tennessee, may be taken as a type. + + [Illustration: Fig. 72.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 73.--Section.] + +Two series of threads are interwoven at right angles, the warp series +being arranged in pairs and the woof singly. At each intersection the +pairs of warp threads are twisted half around upon themselves, inclosing +the woof threads and holding them quite firmly, so that the open mesh +is well preserved even when much strained. Fabrics of this character +have been employed by the ancient potters of a very extended region, +including nearly all the Atlantic States. There are also many varieties +of this form, of fabric resulting from differences in the size and +spacing of the threads. These differences are well brought out in the +series of illustrations that follow. + +In regard to the manufacture of this particular fabric, I am unable to +arrive at any very definite conclusion. As demonstrated by Miss Osgood, +it may be knitted by hand, the threads of the warp being fixed at one +end and the woof at both by wrapping about pegs set in a drawing board +or frame, as shown in the diagram, Fig. 74. + + [Illustration: Fig. 74.--Diagram showing the method of weaving + Form 2.] + +The combination is extremely difficult to produce by mechanical means, +and must have been beyond the reach of any primitive loom. I have +prepared a diagram, Fig. 75, which, shows very clearly the arrangement +of threads, and illustrates a possible method of supporting the warp +while the woof is carried across. As each thread of the woof is laid in +place, the threads of the warp can be thrown to the opposite support, +a turn or half twist being made at each exchange. The work could be done +equally well by beginning at the top and working downward. For the sake +of clearness I have drawn but one pair of the warp threads. + + [Illustration: Fig. 75.--Theoretic device for working the twist.] + +Fig. 76 illustrates a characteristic example of this class obtained from +a fragment of pottery from the great mound at Sevierville, Tenn. + + [Illustration: Fig. 76.--From fragment of mound pottery, Tennessee.] + +The impression is quite perfect. The cords are somewhat uneven, and seem +to have been only moderately well twisted. They were probably made of +some vegetable fiber. It will be observed that the threads of the woof +are placed at regular intervals, while those of the web are irregularly +placed. It is interesting to notice that in one case the warp has not +been doubled, the single thread having, as a consequence, exactly the +same relation to the opposing series as corresponding threads in the +first form of fabric presented. The impression, of which this is only a +part, indicates that the cloth was considerably distorted when applied +to the soft clay. The slipping of one of the woof threads is well shown +in the upper part of the figure. + +The fabric shown in Fig. 77 has been impressed upon an earthen vessel +from Macon, Ga. It has been very well and neatly formed, and all the +details of fiber, twist, and combination can be made out. + + [Illustration: Fig. 77.--From ancient pottery, Georgia.] + +The example given in Fig. 78 differs from the preceding in the spacing +and pairing of the warp cords. It was obtained from a fragment of +ancient pottery recently collected at Reel Foot Lake, Tennessee. + + [Illustration: Fig. 78.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + +Fig. 79 represents another interesting specimen from the pottery of the +same locality. The border is woven somewhat differently from the body of +the fabric, two threads of the woof being included in each loop of the +warp. + + [Illustration: Fig. 79.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + +Fig. 80 is from the pottery of the same locality. The threads are much +more closely woven than those already given. + + [Illustration: Fig. 80.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + +The next example, Fig. 81, impressed upon a fragment of clay from +Arkansas, has been made of coarse, well-twisted cords. An ornamental +border has been produced by looping the cords of the woof, which seem +to have been five in number, each one passing over four others before +recrossing the warp. + + [Illustration: Fig. 81.--From a piece of clay, Arkansas.] + +In no locality are so many fine impressions of textiles upon clay +vessels found as in the ancient salt-making districts of the Mississippi +Valley. The huge bowl or tub-like vessels used by the primitive +salt-makers have very generally been modeled in coarse nets, or +otherwise have had many varieties of netting impressed upon them for +ornament. + +In the accompanying plate (XXXIX) two fine examples of these impressions +are given. They are somewhat more clearly defined than the majority of +those from which the other illustrations are made. + +Fig. 82 illustrates a specimen in which every detail is perfectly +preserved. Only a small portion of the original is shown in the cut. The +cords are heavy and well twisted, but the spacing is somewhat irregular. +I observe one interesting fact in regard to this impression. The fabric +has apparently been applied to the inverted vessel, as the loose cords +of the woof which run parallel with the rim droop or hang in festoons +between the cords of the warp as shown in the illustration, which is +here placed, as drawn from the inverted fragment. The inference to be +drawn from this fact is that the fabric was applied to the exterior of +the vessel, after it was completed and inverted, for the purpose of +enhancing its beauty. When we recollect, however, that these vessels +were probably built for service only, with thick walls and rude finish, +we are at a loss to see why so much pains should have been taken in +their embellishment. It seems highly probable that, generally, the +inspiring idea was one of utility, and that the fabric served in some +way as a support to the pliable clay, or that the network of shallow +impressions was supposed to act after the manner of a _degraissant_ +to neutralize the tendency to fracture. + + [Illustration: Fig. 82.--From fragment of a large salt vessel, + Saline River, Illinois.] + +Another example from the same locality is shown in Fig. 83. This is +similar to that shown in the lower figure of Plate XXXIX. It is very +neatly woven of evenly spun and well-twisted thread. The double series +is widely spaced as shown in the drawing. + + [Illustration: Fig. 83.--From a salt vessel, Saline River, Illinois.] + +The very interesting specimen illustrated in Fig. 84 was obtained from +a small fragment of pottery found in Fort Ripley County, Missouri. The +combination of the two series of threads or strands clearly indicates +the type of fabric under consideration, the twisted cords of the warp +being placed very far apart. The remarkable feature of this example is +the character of the woof, which seems to be a broad braid formed by +plaiting three strands of untwisted fiber, probably bast. All the +details are shown in the most satisfactory manner in the clay cast. + + [Illustration: Fig. 84.--From ancient pottery, Missouri.] + +The open character of the web in this specimen assists very much, in +explaining the structure of tightly-woven examples such as that shown in +Fig. 85, in which the cross cords are so closely placed that the broad +bands of the opposing series are completely hidden. + + [Illustration: Fig. 85.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + +I have made the drawing to show fillets of fiber appearing at the ends. +These do not appear in the impression. It is highly probable, however, +that these fillets are plaited bands, as in the preceding example. They +are wide and flat, giving somewhat the effect of basket-work of splints +or of rushes. This specimen was obtained in Carter County, Tennessee. + +We have a few pieces of this variety of fabric which have been preserved +by contact with the salts of copper. Professor Farquharson describes +an example from a mound on the banks of the Mississippi River, near +the city of Davenport. It had been wrapped about a copper implement +resembling a celt, and was at the time of its recovery in a very perfect +state of preservation. In describing this cloth Mr. Farquharson says +that + "the warp is composed of four cords, that is, of _two double and + twisted_ cords, and the woof of _one_ such doubled and twisted cord + which passes between the two parts of the warp; the latter being + twisted at each change, allowing the cords to be brought close + together so as to cover the woof almost entirely." +His illustration is somewhat erroneous, the artist not having had quite +a clear understanding of the combination of threads. This cloth has a +general resemblance to ordinary coffee-sacking. In Fig. 86 I give an +illustration of this fabric derived from the opposite side of the celt. + + [Illustration: Fig. 86.--Fabric from a copper celt, Iowa.] + +Although I am not quite positive, it is my opinion, after having +examined the specimen carefully, that the body of the cloth belongs +to my first group and that the border only is of the second group. +My section and drawing give a clear idea of the construction of this +fabric. A finely-preserved bit of cloth belonging to the group under +consideration was recently found fixed to the surface of a copper image +from one of the Etowah mounds in Georgia. + +This form of weaving is very common among the productions of the modern +tribes of Western America. A very good example is shown in Fig. 87, +which represents the border of a cape like garment made by the Clyoquot +Indians, of Vancouver's Island. It is woven, apparently, of the fiber of +bark, both web and woof showing considerable diversity in the size of +the cords. The border has been strengthened by sewing in a broad, thin +fillet of rawhide. + + [Illustration: Fig. 87.--Modern work, Vancouver's Island.] + +The beautiful mats of the northwest coast peoples, from California to +Ounalaska, are often woven in this manner, the materials being bast, +grass, or rushes. + +The Lake Dwellers of Switzerland seem to have made a great many +varieties of cloth of this type. I have reproduced four examples from +the great work of Dr. Keller. Fig. 88 is copied from his Fig. 1, Plate +CXXXV. It exhibits some variations from the type, double strips of bast +being bound by a woof consisting of alternate strips of bast and cords. +It is from Robenhausen. + + [Illustration: Fig. 88.--Fabric from the Lake Dwellings, + Switzerland.] + +In Figs. 89 and 90 we have typical examples from the same locality. The +woof series seems to consist of untwisted strands of bast or flax. + + [Illustration: Figs. 89 and 90.--Fabrics from the Lake Dwellings, + Switzerland.] + + + THIRD GROUP. + +A third form of fabric is distinguished from the last by marked +peculiarities in the combinations of the threads. The threads of the +warp are arranged in pairs as in the last form described, but are +twisted in such a way as to inclose two of the opposing series instead +of one, each succeeding pair of warp threads taking up alternate pairs +of the woof threads, as shown in the section, Fig. 91. This is a very +interesting variety, and apparently one that would possess coherence and +elasticity of a very high order. + + [Illustration: Fig. 91.--Section.] + +In Fig. 92 a simple scheme of plaiting or weaving this material is +suggested. It will be seen to differ from the last chiefly in the way +in which the woof is taken up by the warp. + + [Illustration: Fig. 92.--Theoretical device for weaving third group.] + +The ancient pottery of the Mississippi Valley furnishes many examples of +this fabric. It is made of twisted cords and threads of sizes similar to +those of the other work described, varying from the weight of ordinary +spool cotton to that of heavy twine. The mesh is generally quite open. + +In Fig. 93 we have a very well preserved example from Reelfoot Lake, +Tennessee. It was obtained from a large fragment of coarse pottery. +Other pieces are nearly twice as coarse, while some are much finer. + + [Illustration: Fig. 93.--From the ancient pottery of Tennessee.] + +Figs. 94 and 95 are finer specimens from the same locality. + + [Illustration: Fig. 94. Fig. 95. + From the ancient pottery of Tennessee.] + +We have also good examples from Saline River, Illinois. They are +obtained from fragments of the gigantic salt vessels so plentiful +in that locality. + +The upper figure of Plate XXXIX illustrates one of these specimens. +Other examples hare been obtained from Roane County, Tennessee. + +A piece of charred cloth from a mound in Butler County, Ohio, has been +woven in this manner. Foster has described examples of the two preceding +forms from the same locality. The material used is a vegetable fiber +obtained from the bark of trees or from some fibrous weed. This specimen +is now in the National Museum. + +An interesting variety of this form is given in Fig. 96. It is from a +small piece of pottery exhumed from a mound on Fain's Island, Jefferson +County, Tennessee. The threads of the woof are quite close together, +those of the web far apart. + + [Illustration: Fig. 96.--From ancient pottery, Tennessee.] + +A very fine example of this variety of fabric was obtained by Dr. Tarrow +from an ancient cemetery near Dos Pueblos, Cal. It is illustrated in +Fig. 2, Plate XIV, vol. VII, of Surveys West of the 100th Meridian.[4] +In describing it, Professor Putnam says that the fiber is probably +obtained from a species of _yucca_. He says that + "the woof is made of two strands, crossing the warp in such a manner + that the strands alternate in passing, over and under it, and at the + same time inclosing two alternate strands, of the latter, making a + letter X figure of the warp, united at the center of the X by the + double strands of the woof." +It should be noticed that the series of cords called the woof by +Professor Putnam are designated as warp in my own descriptions. The +illustration shows a fabric identical with that given in the upper +figure of Plate XXXIX, and the description quoted describes perfectly +the type of fabric under consideration. + + [Footnote 4: Putnam, F. W., in Vol. VII of Surveys West of the + 100th Meridian, page 244.] + +This method of weaving is still practiced by some of the western tribes, +as may be seen by a visit to the national collection. + +A somewhat complicated arrangement of the threads may be seen in +the fabric shown in Fig. 97. It is clearly only a variation of the +combination just described. The manner in which the threads pass over, +under, and across each other can be more easily understood by reference +to the figure than by any description. It comes from one of the +Northwest coast tribes. + + [Illustration: Fig. 97.--Modern fabric, Northwest coast.] + + + FOURTH GROUP. + +A fourth form of fabric, illustrated in Fig. 98, is of very rare +occurrence on our fictile remains. + + [Illustration: Fig. 98.--Diagonal fabric, ancient pottery of + Tennessee.] + +It is a very neatly woven diagonal from the ancient pottery of Polk +County, Tennessee. Two series of cords have been interwoven at right +angles to each other, but so arranged as to produce a diagonal pattern. +One series of the cords is fine and well twisted, the other coarser and +very slightly twisted. + +The remarkable sample of matting shown in Fig. 99 is from a small piece +of pottery from Alabama. It has been worked in the diagonal style, but +is somewhat different from the last example. It has probably been made +of rushes or heavy blades of grass. + + [Illustration: Fig. 99.--From the ancient pottery of Alabama.] + +The texture shown in Fig. 100 is from a rather indistinct impression +upon a small fragment of pottery from Iowa. One series of the strands +seems to have been quite rigid, while the other has been pliable, and +appear in the impression only where they have crossed the rigid series. +The dotted lines indicate their probable course on the under side of the +cross threads. + + [Illustration: Fig. 100.--From ancient pottery, Iowa.] + +This form of fabric is very common in modern work. + + + FIFTH GROUP. + +In Fig. 101 I present a variety of ancient fabric which has not to my +knowledge been found upon ceramic products. This specimen shows the +method of plaiting sandals practiced by the ancient inhabitants of +Kentucky. Numbers of these very interesting relics have been obtained +from the great caves of that State. They are beautifully woven, and well +shaped to the foot. + + [Illustration: Fig. 101.--Plaiting of a sandal, Kentucky cave.] + +The fiber has the appearance of bast and is plaited in untwisted +strands, after the manner shown in the illustration. Professor Putman +describes a number of cast-off sandals from Salt Cave, Kentucky, as +"neatly made of finely braided and twisted leaves of rushes."[5] + + [Footnote 5: Putnam, F. W. Eighth Annual Report of the Peabody + Museum, p. 49.] + +Fig. 102 illustrates a somewhat similar method of plaiting practiced by +the Lake Dwellers of Switzerland, from one of Keller's figures.[6] + + [Illustration: Fig. 102.--Braiding done by the Lake-Dwellers.] + + [Footnote 6: Keller, Dr. F. Lake Dwellers. Fig. 3; Pl. CXXXVI.] + + + SIXTH GROUP. + +The art of making nets of spun and twisted cords seems to have been +practiced by many of the ancient peoples of America. Beautiful examples +have been found in the _huacas_ of the Incas and in the tombs of the +Aztecs. They were used by the prehistoric tribes of California and the +ancient inhabitants of Alaska. Nets were in use by the Indians of +Florida and Virginia at the time of the discovery, and the ancient +pottery of the Atlantic States has preserved impressions of a number +of varieties. It is possible that some of these impressions may be from +European nets, but we have plentiful historical proof that nets of hemp +were in use by the natives, and as all of this pottery is very old it is +probable that the impressions upon the fragments are from nets of native +manufacture. + +Wyman states that nets or net impressions have not been found among the +antiquities of Tennessee. I have found, however, that the pottery of +Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland furnish examples of netting in great +numbers. In many cases the meshes have been distorted by stretching and +overlapping so that the fabric cannot be examined in detail; in other +cases the impressions have been so deep that casts cannot be taken, and +in a majority of cases the fragments are so decayed that no details of +the cords and their combinations can be made out. + +In Fig. 103 we have a thoroughly satisfactory restoration from a small +fragment of pottery picked up in the District of Columbia. It is shown +a little larger than natural size in the drawing. The impression is so +perfect that the twist of the cord and the form of the knot may be seen +with ease. Most of the examples from this locality are of much finer +cord and have a less open mesh than the specimen illustrated. It is +a noteworthy fact that in one of these specimens an incised pattern +has been added to the surface of the soft clay after the removal +of the net. + +Recent collections from the mounds of Western North Carolina have +brought to light many examples of net-marked pottery. Generally the +impressions are quite obscure, but enough can be seen in the cast to +show clearly the character of the fabric. The restoration given in +Fig. 104 represents an average mesh, others being finer and others +coarser. Another specimen from the same collection is shown in Fig. 105. +The impression is not very distinct, bat there is an apparent doubling +of the cords, indicating a very unusual combination. It is possible that +this may have come from the imperfect imprinting, but I can detect no +indications of a shifting of the net upon the soft clay. + + [Illustration: Fig. 103.--From ancient pottery, District of + Columbia.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 104.--Net from the pottery of North Carolina.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 105.--Net from the pottery of North Carolina.] + +Many interesting examples could be given, both from the ancient and +modern work of the inhabitants of the Pacific coast, but for the present +I shall content myself by presenting a single example from the Lake +Dwellings of Switzerland (Fig. 106): + + [Illustration: Fig. 106.--Net from the Swiss Lake Dwellings. Keller, + plate, CXXX.] + + + MISCELLANEOUS FORMS. + +The forms of fabrics used by the ancient tribes of the Middle and +Northern Atlantic States in the manufacture and ornamentation of their +pottery have differed materially from those used in the South and West. +As a rule the fragments are smaller and the impressions less perfectly +preserved. The fabrics have been more complicated and less carefully +applied to the vessel. In many cases the impressions seem to have +been made from disconnected bands, belts, or strips of cloth. Single +cords, or cords arranged in groups by rolling on sticks, or by other +contrivances, have been extensively employed. Baskets have doubtless +been used, some of which have been woven, but others have apparently +been of bark or skin, with stitched designs of thread or quills. Some +of the impressions suggest the use of woven vessels or fabrics filled +up with clay or resin, so that the prominences only are imprinted, or +otherwise cloths may have been used in which raised figures were worked. + +Fig. 107 is obtained from a fragment of pottery from New Jersey. The +impressions are extremely puzzling, but are such as I imagine might be +made by the use of a basket, the meshes of which had been filled up with +clay or resin so that only the more prominent ridges or series of thongs +remain uncovered to give impressions upon the clay. But the threads or +thongs indicate a pliable net rather than a basket, and the appearance +of the horizontal threads at the ends of the series of raised stitches +suggests that possibly the material may have been bark or smooth cloth +with a heavy pattern stitched into it. + + [Illustration: Fig. 107.--From the ancient pottery of New Jersey.] + +Very similar to the above is the example given in Fig. 108, also derived +from the pottery of New Jersey. + + [Illustration: Fig. 108.--From the ancient pottery of New Jersey.] + +Fig. 109 illustrates an impression upon another fragment from the same +state. This impression may have been made by a piece of birch bark or +fine fabric with a pattern sewed into it with cords or quills. + + [Illustration: Fig. 109.--From the ancient pottery of New Jersey.] + +Fig. 110 illustrates an impression upon a large, well-made vase, with +scalloped rim, from Easton, Pa. The character of the fabric is difficult +to make out, the impression suggesting bead-work. That it is from a +fabric, however, is evident from the fact that there is system and +uniformity in the arrangement of markings, the indentations alternating +as in the impressions of fabrics of the simplest type. Yet there is +an appearance of patchwork in the impression that suggests separate +applications of the material. + + [Illustration: Fig. 110.--From the ancient pottery of Pennsylvania.] + +In Figs. 111 and 112 we have what appear to be impressions of bands or +belts. The first shown consists of six parallel cords, coarse and well +twisted, with a border of short cord indentations placed at regular +intervals. This is a very usual form in all parts of the country, from +the Mandan towns of the Missouri to Florida. It is possible that the +cords may in this case have been separately impressed, but the example +given in Fig. 112 is undoubtedly from, a woven band or belt, the middle +portion of which seems to have been a closely-woven cloth, with a sort +of pattern produced by series of raised or knotted threads. The borders +consist of single longitudinal cord impressions with an edging of short +cord indentations placed at right angles to the belt. + + [Illustration: Fig. 111.--From the ancient pottery of Ohio.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 112.--From the ancient pottery of New Jersey.] + +Similar to the last is the very effective decorative design impressed +upon a large fragment of pottery from Alabama, shown in Fig. 113. The +peculiarity of this example is the use of plaited instead of twisted +cords. The work is neatly done and very effective. It seems to me almost +certain that single cords have been used. They have been so imprinted +as to form a zone, filled with groups of lines placed at various angles. +An ornamental border of short lines has been added, as in the examples +previously given. + + [Illustration: Fig. 113.--From the ancient pottery of Alabama.] + +Two other examples of cord ornamentation, which may be duplicated from +the pottery of almost any of the Atlantic States, are presented in Figs. +114 and 115, the first from a fragment of pottery from Charles County, +Maryland, and the other from the pottery of Alabama. + + [Illustration: Fig. 114.--Cord-markings from ancient pottery of + Maryland.] + + [Illustration: Fig. 115.--Cord-markings from ancient pottery of + Alabama.] + +It will readily be seen that it is extremely difficult to draw a line +between an ornamentation produced by the use of single or grouped cords +and that made by the use of fabrics. + +It is not less difficult to say just how much of this use of cords +and fabrics is to be attributed to manufacture simply and how much to +ornament. + +Although the restorations here presented certainly throw considerable +light upon the textile fabrics of the ancient inhabitants of the +Atlantic States, it cannot be affirmed that anything like a complete +idea of their fabrics has been gained. Impressions upon pottery +represent a class of work utilized in the fictile arts. We cannot +say what other fabrics were produced and used for other purposes. + +However this may be, attention should be called to the fact that the +work described, though varied and ingenious, exhibits no characters in +execution or design not wholly consonant with the art of a stone-age +people. There is nothing superior to or specifically different from the +work of our modern Indians. + +The origin of the use of fabrics and of separate cords in the +ornamentation of pottery is very obscure. Baskets and nets were +doubtless in use by many tribes throughout their pottery making period. +The shaping of earthen vessels in or upon baskets either of plain bark +or of woven splints or of fiber must frequently have occurred. The +peculiar impressions left upon the clay probably came in time to be +regarded as ornamental, and were applied for purposes of embellishment +alone. Decorative art has thus been enriched by many elements of beauty. +These now survive in incised, stamped, and painted designs. The forms as +well as the ornamentation of clay vessels very naturally preserve traces +of the former intimacy of the two arts. + + +Since the stereotyping of these pages I have come upon a short paper by +George E. Sellers (Popular Science Monthly, Vol. XI, p. 573), in which +is given what I believe to be a correct view of the use of nets in the +manufacture of the large salt vessels referred to on pages 398 and 409. +The use of interior conical moulds of indurated clay makes clear the +reasons for the reversed festooning of the cords to which I called +attention. + + + INDEX + +Cord-markings on pottery 423 + +Diagonal textiles 416 + +Fabrics, Diagonal 417 + Forms of 401 + from New Jersey 421 + " Iowa 411 + " Mississippi Valley 408-411 + " Southern States 407 + of lake dwellers 413 + Miscellaneous 415 +Farquharson, Prof., describes fabric from Iowa 411 + +Holmes, W. H., Catalogue of Ethnological collections 393 + +Jewett, L., British vase from the work of 399 + +Keller, Dr. F., + on fabrics of Swiss lake dwellers 404, 412, 413, 418, 420 + +Lake dwellings, Fabrics from Swiss 403, 412, 413, 418, 420 + +Mississippi Valley, Prehistoric fabrics from 408-411 + +Nets from Atlantic coast 419 + +Osgood, Miss Kate C., reproduced methods of fabrication 400, 406 + +Putnam, F. W., on ancient fabrics 415, 418 + +Swiss lake dwellings, Fabrics from 403, 412, 413, 418, 420 + +Textiles, Diagonal 417 + Forms of 401 + from Mississippi Valley, Prehistoric 408-411 + " New Jersey, Prehistoric 421 + " Southern States, Prehistoric 407 + " Swiss Lake dwellers, Prehistoric 413 + Miscellaneous 415 + used to support pottery 398 + +Vase from the work of Llewellyn Jewett, British 399 + +Weaving illustrated from pottery, Materials used in 397 + Modes of 401, 405, 413 +Wyman, Prof., on cord-marked pottery of Tennessee 398 + +Yarrow, Dr., H. C., obtained fabrics from pottery in California 415 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS *** + +***** This file should be named 17370.txt or 17370.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/3/7/17370/ + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, +1st-hand-history.org, and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. This file was +produced from images generously made available by the +Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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