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diff --git a/17370-h/17370-h.htm b/17370-h/17370-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d6e009d --- /dev/null +++ b/17370-h/17370-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2725 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Prehistoric Textile Fabrics</title> +<meta http-equiv = "Content-Type" content = "text/html; +charset=ISO-8859-1"> + +<!--BAE annual report 3 / pp. 393-426--> + +<style type = "text/css"> + +body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} +hr {width: 80%; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em;} +hr.mid {width: 50%; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: .5em;} +hr.tiny {width: 20%; margin-top: .5em; margin-bottom: .5em;} + +/* tables */ + +table.index {width: 80%; margin: 1em auto 0em auto;} +table.index.notop {margin-top: 0em;} + +table.figure {margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; +margin-right: auto; clear: both;} +table.figright {float: right; clear: both; margin: 0em 0em 1em 0em; +padding-left: 1em;} + +td {vertical-align: top; padding: 0em;} +td.number {text-align: right; padding-left: 2em; padding-right: 0em;} +td.number.left {padding-left: 0em;} +td.number.compact {padding-left: 1em;} + +td.picture {text-align: center; vertical-align: middle;} +td.caption {font-size: 90%; text-align: center; padding-top: 1em;} +td.rightpad {padding-right: 1em;} +td.leftpad {padding-left: 1em;} +td.toppad {padding-top: 1em;} + +a.tag {text-decoration: none; vertical-align: .3em; font-size: 80%; +line-height: 0em;} + +/* headers */ +h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6 {text-align: center; font-style: normal; +font-weight: normal; line-height: 1.5em; margin-bottom: .8em; +clear: both;} +h2 {font-size: 150%; margin-top: 1em;} +h3 {font-size: 125%; font-variant: small-caps; margin-top: 1em;} +h4 {font-size: 115%; margin-top: 1.5em;} +h5 {font-size: 100%; margin-top: 1.5em;} +h6 {font-size: 85%; margin-top: 1.5em;} + +p, div, blockquote {line-height: 1.2em; margin-top: .5em; +margin-bottom: .5em;} +p.fullclear {clear: both; line-height: .1em; margin-top: 0em; +margin-bottom: 0em;} +p.illustration {text-align: center; clear: both;} +div.footnote {font-size: 95%; margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em;} + +blockquote {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em;} + +/* TOC and index use td class "number" */ +.toc {line-height: normal; margin: 0em 0em 0em 2em; +text-indent: -2em;} +.inset1 {margin-left: 3em;} + +.pagenum {position: absolute; right: 5%; font-size: 95%; +font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-align: right; +text-indent: 0em; color: #666; background-color: inherit;} + +.smallcaps {font-variant: small-caps;} +.boldf {font-weight: bold;} +.sans {font-family: sans-serif;} + +ins.correction {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted #900;} +.mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; +margin: .5em 3em; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 90%;} + +</style> +</head> + + +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United +States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery, by William Henry Holmes + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Prehistoric Textile Fabrics Of The United States, Derived From Impressions On Pottery + Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the + Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1881-82, + Government Printing Office, Washington, 1884, pages 393-425 + +Author: William Henry Holmes + +Release Date: December 22, 2005 [EBook #17370] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS *** + + + + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, +1st-hand-history.org, and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. This file was +produced from images generously made available by the +Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr. + + + + + + +</pre> + +<a name = "page393"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">393</span> +<hr> + +<h5>SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION—BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY.</h5> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<h2>PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS</h2> + +<h6>OF THE</h6> + +<h3>UNITED STATES,</h3> + +<h4>DERIVED FROM IMPRESSIONS ON POTTERY.</h4> + +<h6>BY</h6> + +<h4>WILLIAM H. HOLMES.</h4> + +<hr> + + +<a name = "page394"> </a> +<!--anchor for completeness--> +<a name = "page395"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">395</span> +<h4>CONTENTS.</h4> + +<hr class = "mid"> + +<table class = "index" summary = "table of contents"> +<tr> +<td></td><td class = "number">Page.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#intro">Introductory</a></td> +<td class = "number">397</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#first">First Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">401</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#second">Second Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">404</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#third">Third Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">413</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#fourth">Fourth Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">416</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#fifth">Fifth Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">417</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#sixth">Sixth Group</a></td> +<td class = "number">418</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#misc">Miscellaneous</a></td> +<td class = "number">420</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#notes"><i>Footnotes</i></a></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href = "#index">Index</a></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<h4>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h4> + +<div class = "mynote"> +Transcriber's Note:<br> +In the original text, the position of illustrations was determined by +available page space. For this e-text, each illustration has been placed +as close as possible to its description in the text.</div> + +<table class = "index" summary = "list of illustrations"> +<tr> +<td></td><td></td><td class = "number">Page.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan = "2"> +<a href = "#plate"><span class = "smallcaps">Plate +XXXIX.</span></a>—Pottery, with impressions of textile +fabrics</td> +<td class = "number">397</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> <a href = +"#fig60">60.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Cord-marked vessel, Great Britain</div></td> +<td class = "number">399</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig61">61.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Cord and fabric marked vessel, Pennsylvania</div></td> +<td class = "number">400</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig62">62.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Combination of threads in coffee sacking</div></td> +<td class = "number">401</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig63">63.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Section of same</div></td> +<td class = "number">401</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig64">64.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of New York</div></td> +<td class = "number">402</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig65">65.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of District of Columbia</div></td> +<td class = "number">402</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig66">66.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Arizona</div></td> +<td class = "number">402</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig67">67.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the caves of Kentucky</div></td> +<td class = "number">403</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig68">68.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the Swiss Lake Dwellings</div></td> +<td class = "number">403</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig69">69.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from a mound in Ohio</div></td> +<td class = "number">403</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig70">70.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from a mound in Ohio</div></td> +<td class = "number">403</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig71">71.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Section of the same</div></td> +<td class = "number">403</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig72">72.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">405</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig73">73.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Section of same</div></td> +<td class = "number">405</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig74">74.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Diagram showing method of weaving</div></td> +<td class = "number">405</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig75">75.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Device for making the twist</div></td> +<td class = "number">406</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig76">76.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">406</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig77">77.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Georgia</div></td> +<td class = "number">407</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig78">78.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">407</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig79">79.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">408</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig80">80.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">408</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig81">81.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Arkansas</div></td> +<td class = "number">408</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig82">82.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Illinois</div></td> +<td class = "number">409</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig83">83.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Illinois</div></td> +<td class = "number">410</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig84">84.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Missouri</div></td> +<td class = "number">410</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig85">85.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">410</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig86">86.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from a copper celt, Iowa</div></td> +<td class = "number">411</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig87">87.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from Vancouver's Island</div></td> +<td class = "number">412</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig88">88.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland</div></td> +<td class = "number">412</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig89">89.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland</div></td> +<td class = "number">412</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig90">90.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the Lake Dwellings of Switzerland</div></td> +<td class = "number">413</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig91">91.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Section of third form of fabric</div></td> +<td class = "number">414</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig92">92.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Device for weaving same</div></td> +<td class = "number">414</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig93">93.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +<a name = "page396"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">396</span> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">414</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig94">94.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">414</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig95">95.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">414</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig96">96.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">415</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig97">97.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the Northwest coast</div></td> +<td class = "number">415</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig98">98.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Tennessee</div></td> +<td class = "number">416</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig99">99.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Alabama</div></td> +<td class = "number">416</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig100">100.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Iowa</div></td> +<td class = "number">417</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig101">101.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Plaiting of an ancient sandal</div></td> +<td class = "number">417</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig102">102.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Braiding done by the Lake Dwellers</div></td> +<td class = "number">418</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig103">103.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of District of Columbia</div></td> +<td class = "number">419</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig104">104.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of North Carolina</div></td> +<td class = "number">419</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig105">105.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of North Carolina</div></td> +<td class = "number">420</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig106">106.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Net from the Lake Dwellings</div></td> +<td class = "number">420</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig107">107.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey</div></td> +<td class = "number">421</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig108">108.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey</div></td> +<td class = "number">421</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig109">109.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of New Jersey</div></td> +<td class = "number">422</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig110">110.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabric from the ancient pottery of Pennsylvania</div></td> +<td class = "number">422</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig111">111.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Impression on the ancient pottery of Ohio</div></td> +<td class = "number">423</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig112">112.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Impression on the ancient pottery of New Jersey</div></td> +<td class = "number">423</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig113">113.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Impression on the ancient pottery of Alabama</div></td> +<td class = "number">423</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig114">114.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Impression on the ancient pottery of Maryland</div></td> +<td class = "number">424</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "number left"><a href = "#fig115">115.</a>—</td> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Impression on the ancient pottery of Alabama</div></td> +<td class = "number">425</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr> + +<span class = "pagenum">[plate]</span> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a href = "images/plate39.jpg" name = "plate"> +<img src = "images/plate39thumb.jpg" width = "255" height = "374" alt = +"thumbnail of Plate"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption sans"> +BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY ANNUAL REPORT 1882 PL. XXXIX<br> +1. POTSHERD. 2. CLAY CAST.<br> +3. POTSHERD. 4. CLAY CAST.<br> +5. POTSHERD. 6. CLAY CAST.<br> +A. Hoen & Co. Litho<ins class = "correction" title = +"end of word illegible"> </ins>, Baltimore.<br> +POTTERY WITH IMPRESSIONS OF TEXTILE FABRICS.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr> + +<a name = "page397"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">397</span> +<h3>PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS OF THE UNITED STATES,<br> +DERIVED FROM IMPRESSIONS ON POTTERY.</h3> + +<hr class = "tiny"> + +<h4 class = "smallcaps">By W. H. Holmes.</h4> + +<hr class = "tiny"> + +<h5 class = "boldf"><a name = "intro">INTRODUCTORY.</a></h5> + +<p>It is not my intention in this paper to make an exhaustive study of +the art of weaving as practiced by the ancient peoples of this country. +To do this would necessitate a very extended study of the materials used +and of the methods of preparing them, as well as of the arts of spinning +and weaving practiced by primitive peoples generally. This would be a +very wide field, and one which I have no need of entering. I may state +here, however, that the materials used by savages in weaving their +simple fabrics consist generally of the fibre of bark, flax, hemp, +nettles, and grasses, which is spun into thread of various sizes; or of +splints of wood, twigs, roots, vines, porcupine quills, feathers, and a +variety of animal tissues, either plaited or used in an untwisted state. +The articles produced are mats, baskets, nets, bags, plain cloths, and +entire garments, such as capes, hats, belts, and sandals.</p> + +<p>It has been noticed by a few authors that twisted or plaited cords, +as well as a considerable variety of woven fabrics, have been used by +primitive tribes in the manufacture and ornamentation of pottery. +Impressions of these made in the soft clay are frequently preserved on +very ancient ware, the original fabrics having long since crumbled to +dust. It is to these that I propose calling attention, their restoration +having been successfully accomplished in many hundreds of cases by +taking impressions in clay from the ancient pottery.</p> + +<p>The perfect manner in which the fabric in all its details of +plaiting, netting, and weaving can be brought out is a matter of +astonishment; the cloth itself could hardly make all the particulars of +its construction more manifest.</p> + +<p>The examples presented in the accompanying plate will be very +instructive, as the fragment of pottery is given on the left, with its +rather obscure intaglio impressions, and the clay cast on the right with +the cords of the fabric in high relief. The great body of illustrations +have been made in pen directly from the clay impressions, and, although +<a name = "page398"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">398</span> +details are more distinctly shown than in the specimens themselves, I +believe that nothing is presented that cannot with ease be seen in the +originals. Alongside of these restorations I have placed illustrations +of fabrics from other primitive sources.</p> + +<p>There appears to be a pretty general impression that baskets of the +ordinary rigid character have been extensively used by our ancient +peoples in the manufacture of pottery to build the vessel in or upon; +but my investigations tend to show that such is not the case, and that +nets or sacks of pliable materials have been almost exclusively +employed. These have been applied to the surface of the vessel, +sometimes covering the exterior entirely, and at others only the body or +a part of the body. The interior surface is sometimes partially +decorated in the same manner.</p> + +<p>The nets or other fabrics used have generally been removed before the +vessel was burned or even dried. Professor Wyman, in speaking casually +of the cord-marked pottery of Tennessee, says:</p> + +<blockquote> +"It seems incredible that even an Indian would be so prodigal of time +and labor as to make the necessary quantity of well-twisted cord or +thread, and weave it into shape for the mere purpose of serving as a +mold which must be destroyed in making a single copy." +</blockquote> + +<p>This remark is, however, based upon a false assumption. The fact that +the net or fabric has generally been removed while the clay was still +soft being susceptible of easy proof. I have observed in many cases that +handles and ornaments have been added, and that impressed and incised +designs have been made in the soft clay <i>after</i> the removal of the +woven fabric; besides this there would be no need of the support of a +net after the vessel had been fully finished and slightly hardened. +Furthermore, I have no doubt that these <i>textilia</i> were employed as +much for the purpose of enhancing the appearance of the vessel as for +supporting it during the process of construction. I have observed, in +relation to this point, that in a number of cases, notably the great +salt vessels of Saline River, Illinois, the fabric has been applied +after the vessel was finished. I arrive at this conclusion from having +noticed that the loose threads of the net-like cover sag or festoon +toward the rim as if applied to the inverted vessel, <a href = +"#fig82">Fig. 82</a>. If the net had been used to suspend the vessel +while building, the threads would necessarily have hung in the opposite +direction.</p> + +<p>In support of the idea that ornament was a leading consideration in +the employment of these coarse fabrics, we have the well-known fact that +simple cord-markings, arranged to form patterns, have been employed by +many peoples for embellishment alone. This was a common practice of the +ancient inhabitants of Great Britain, as shown by Jewett. The +accompanying cut (Fig. 60) is copied from his work.<a class = "tag" name += "tag1" href = "#note1">1</a></p> + +<p>It is a remarkable fact that very few entire cord-marked vessels have +<a name = "page399"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">399</span> +been obtained in this country, although fragments of such are very +plentiful.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig60"><img src = "images/fig60.jpg" width = "245" +height = "316" alt = "figure 60"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig61"><img src = "images/fig61.jpg" width = "263" +height = "320" alt = "figure 61"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 60.—Ancient British vase +with cord ornamentation.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 61.—Ancient fabric marked +vessel, Pennsylvania.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In Fig. 61 we have an ancient vase from Pennsylvania. It presents a +combination of net or basket markings and of separate cord-markings. The +regularity of the impressions upon the globular body indicates almost +unbroken contact with the interior surface of the woven vessel. The neck +and rim have apparently received finishing touches by separately +impressing cords or narrow bands of some woven fabric.</p> + +<p>Many examples show very irregular markings such as might have been +made by rolling the plastic vessel irregularly upon a woven surface, or +by molding it in an improvised sack made by tying up the margins of a +piece of cloth.</p> + +<p>It is necessary to distinguish carefully the cord and fabric markings +from the stamped designs so common in southern pottery, as well as from +the incised designs, some of which imitate fabric markings very +closely.</p> + +<p>I shall present at once a selection from the numerous examples of the +fabrics restored. For convenience of study I have arranged them in six +groups, some miscellaneous examples being added in a seventh group. For +comparison, a number of illustrations of both ancient and modern +textiles are presented.</p> + +<p>In regard to methods of manufacture but little need be said. The +<a name = "page400"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">400</span> +appliances used have been extremely simple, the work in a vast majority +of cases having been done by hand. It is probable that in many instances +a simple frame has been used, the threads of the web or warp being fixed +at one end and those of the woof being carried through them by the +fingers or by a simple needle or shuttle. A loom with a device for +carrying the alternate threads of the warp back and forth may have been +used, but that form of fabric in which the threads are twisted in pairs +at each crossing of the woof could only have been made by hand.</p> + +<p>The probable methods will be dwelt upon more in detail as the groups +are presented. In verifying the various methods of fabrication I have +been greatly assisted by Miss Kate C. Osgood, who has successfully +reproduced, in cotton cord, all the varieties discovered, all the +mechanism necessary being a number of pins set in a drawing board or +frame, in the form of three sides of a rectangle, the warp being fixed +at one end only and the woof passing back and forth between the lateral +rows of pins, as shown in <a href = "#fig74">Fig. 74</a>.</p> + + +<a name = "page401"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">401</span> +<h4><a name = "first">FIRST GROUP.</a></h4> + +<p>Fig. 62 illustrates a small fragment of an ordinary coffee sack which +I take as a type of the first group. It is a loosely woven fabric of the +simplest construction; the two sets of threads being interwoven at right +angles to each other, alternate threads of one series passing over and +under each of the opposing series as shown in the section, +Fig. 63.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig62"><img src = "images/fig62.jpg" width = "361" +height = "246" alt = "figure 62"></a> +</td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig63"><img src = "images/fig63.jpg" width = "32" +height = "222" alt = "figure 63"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 62.—Type of Group +one—portion of a coffee sack.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 63.—Section.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>It is a remarkable fact that loosely woven examples of this kind of +cloth are rarely, if ever, found among the impressions upon clay or in +the fabrics themselves where preserved by the salts of copper or by +charring. The reason of this probably is that the combination is such +that when loosely woven the threads would not remain in place under +tension, and the twisted and knotted varieties were consequently +preferred.</p> + +<p>It is possible that many of the very irregular impressions observed, +in which it is so difficult to trace the combinations of the threads, +are of distorted fabrics of this class.</p> + +<p>This stuff may be woven by hand in a simple frame, or by any of the +primitive forms of the loom.</p> + +<p>In most cases, so far as the impressions upon pottery show, when this +particular combination is employed, the warp is generally very heavy and +the woof comparatively light. This gives a cloth differing greatly from +the type in appearance; and when, as is usually the case, the woof +threads are beaten down tightly, obscuring those of the web, the +resemblance to the type is quite lost.</p> + +<p>Examples of this kind of weaving may be obtained from the fictile +remains of nearly all the Atlantic States.</p> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig64"><img src = "images/fig64.jpg" width = "355" +height = "113" alt = "figure 64"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 64.—Fabric impressed upon +ancient pottery, New York.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The specimen presented in Fig. 64 was obtained from a small fragment +of ancient pottery from the State of New York.</p> + +<p>It is generally quite difficult to determine which set of threads is +the warp and which the woof. In most cases I have preferred to call the +<a name = "page402"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">402</span> +more closely placed threads the woof, as they are readily beaten down by +a baton, whereas it would be difficult to manipulate the warp threads if +so closely placed. In the specimen illustrated, only the tightly woven +threads of the woof appear. The impression is not sufficiently distinct +to show the exact character of the thread, but there are indications +that it has been twisted. The regularity and prominence of the ridges +indicate a strong, tightly drawn warp.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig65"><img src = "images/fig65.jpg" width = "342" +height = "112" alt = "figure 65"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 65.—From a fragment of +ancient pottery, District of Columbia.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Fig. 65 represents a form of this type of fabric very common in +impressions upon the pottery of the Middle Atlantic States. This +specimen was obtained from a small potsherd picked up near Washington, +D.C. The woof or cross-threads are small and uniform in thickness, and +pass alternately over and under the somewhat rigid fillets of the web. +The apparent rigidity of these fillets may result from the tightening of +the series when the fabric was applied to the plastic surface of the +vessel.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig66"><img src = "images/fig66.jpg" width = "395" +height = "187" alt = "figure 66"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 66.—From a fragment of +ancient Cliff-house pottery.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>I present in Fig. 66 the only example of the impression of a woven +fabric found by the writer in two summers' work among the remains of the +ancient Cliff-Dwellers. It was obtained from the banks of the San Juan +River, in southeastern Utah. It is probably the imprint of the interior +<a name = "page403"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">403</span> +surface of a more or less rigid basket, such as are to be seen among +many of the modern tribes of the Southwest. The character of the warp +cannot be determined, as the woof, which has been of moderately heavy +rushes or other untwisted, vegetable fillets, entirely +hides it.</p> + +<p>The caves of Kentucky have furnished specimens of ancient weaving of +much interest. One of these, a small fragment of a mat apparently made +from the fiber of bark, or a fibrous rush, is illustrated in Fig. +67.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig67"><img src = "images/fig67.jpg" width = "523" +height = "272" alt = "figure 67"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 67.—Fabric from a cave in +Kentucky.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig68"><img src = "images/fig68.jpg" width = "165" +height = "127" alt = "figure 68"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 68.—Fabric from Swiss +Lake-Dwellings.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>This simple combination of the web and woof has been employed by all +ancient weavers who have left us examples of their work. The specimen +given in Fig. 68 is the work of the ancient Lake-Dwellers +<a name = "page404"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">404</span> +of Switzerland. It is a mat plaited or woven of strips of bast, and was +found at Robenhausen, having been preserved in a charred state.<a class += "tag" name = "tag2" href = "#note2">2</a> Keller gives another example +of a similar fabric of much finer texture in Fig. 8, Pl. CXXXVI.</p> + +<p>An illustration of this form of fabric is given by Foster,<a class = +"tag" name = "tag3" href = "#note3">3</a> and reproduced in +Fig. 69.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig69"><img src = "images/fig69.jpg" width = "187" +height = "156" alt = "figure 69"></a></td> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig70"><img src = "images/fig70.jpg" width = "208" +height = "174" alt = "figure 70"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig71"><img src = "images/fig71.jpg" width = "36" +height = "174" alt = "figure 71"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 69.—Cloth from a mound, +Ohio.</td> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 70.—Cloth from a mound, +Ohio.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 71.—Section.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In the same place this author presents another form of cloth shown in +my Fig. 70. In Fig. 71 we have a section of this fabric. These cloths, +with a number of other specimens, were taken from a mound on the west +side of the Great Miama River, Butler County, Ohio. The fabric in both +samples appears to be composed of some material allied to hemp. As his +remarks on these specimens, as well as on the general subject, are quite +interesting, I quote them somewhat at length.</p> + +<blockquote> +"The separation between the fibre and the wood appears to have been as +thorough and effectual as at this day by the process of rotting and +hackling. The thread, though coarse, is uniform in size, and regularly +spun. Two modes of weaving are recognized: In one, by the alternate +intersection of the warp and woof, and in the other, the weft is wound +once around the warp, a process which could not be accomplished except +by hand. In the illustration the interstices have been enlarged to show +the method of weaving, but in the original the texture was about the +same as that in coarse sail-cloth. In some of the Butler County +specimens there is evidently a fringed border." +</blockquote> + +<p>In regard to the second specimen described, I would remark that it is +a very unusual form, no such combination of the parts having come to my +notice either in the ancient fabrics themselves or in the impressions on +pottery. In a very closely woven cloth it might be possible to employ +such a combination, each thread of the web being turned once around each +thread of the woof as shown in Fig. 71; but certainly it would work in a +very unsatisfactory manner in open fabrics. I would suggest that this +example may possibly belong to my second group, which, upon the surface, +would have a similar appearance. The combination of this form is shown +in the section, <a href = "#fig73">Fig. 73</a>.</p> + + +<h4><a name = "second">SECOND GROUP.</a></h4> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig72"><img src = "images/fig72.jpg" width = "160" +height = "274" alt = "figure 72"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig73"><img src = "images/fig73.jpg" width = "35" +height = "230" alt = "figure 73"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 72.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 73.—Section.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>It is not impossible, as previously stated, that open fabrics of the +plain type were avoided for the reason that the threads would not remain +in place if subjected to tension. A very ingenious method of fixing the +threads of open work, without resorting to the device of knotting has +been extensively employed in the manufacture of ancient textiles. +<a name = "page405"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">405</span> +The simplest form of cloth in which this combination is used is shown in +Fig. 72. This example, which was obtained from a small fragment of +pottery found in Polk County, Tennessee, may be taken as a type.</p> + +<p>Two series of threads are interwoven at right angles, the warp series +being arranged in pairs and the woof singly. At each intersection the +pairs of warp threads are twisted half around upon themselves, inclosing +the woof threads and holding them quite firmly, so that the open mesh is +well preserved even when much strained. Fabrics of this character have +been employed by the ancient potters of a very extended region, +including nearly all the Atlantic States. There are also many varieties +of this form, of fabric resulting from differences in the size and +spacing of the threads. These differences are well brought out in the +series of illustrations that follow.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<p> +<a name = "page406"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">406</span> +In regard to the manufacture of this particular fabric, I am unable to +arrive at any very definite conclusion. As demonstrated by Miss Osgood, +it may be knitted by hand, the threads of the warp being fixed at one +end and the woof at both by wrapping about pegs set in a drawing board +or frame, as shown in the diagram, Fig. 74.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig74"><img src = "images/fig74.jpg" width = "459" +height = "402" alt = "figure 74"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 74.—Diagram showing the +method of weaving Form 2.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig75"><img src = "images/fig75.jpg" width = "271" +height = "299" alt = "figure 75"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 75.—Theoretic device for +working the twist.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The combination is extremely difficult to produce by mechanical +means, and must have been beyond the reach of any primitive loom. I have +prepared a diagram, Fig. 75, which, shows very clearly the arrangement +of threads, and illustrates a possible method of supporting the warp +while the woof is carried across. As each thread of the woof is laid in +place, the threads of the warp can be thrown to the opposite support, a +turn or half twist being made at each exchange. The work could be done +equally well by beginning at the top and working downward. +<a name = "page407"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">407</span> +For the sake of clearness I have drawn but one pair of the warp +threads.</p> + +<p>Fig. 76 illustrates a characteristic example of this class obtained +from a fragment of pottery from the great mound at Sevierville, +Tenn.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig76"><img src = "images/fig76.jpg" width = "547" +height = "316" alt = "figure 76"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 76.—From fragment of mound +pottery, Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The impression is quite perfect. The cords are somewhat uneven, and +seem to have been only moderately well twisted. They were probably made +of some vegetable fiber. It will be observed that the threads of the +woof are placed at regular intervals, while those of the web are +irregularly placed. It is interesting to notice that in one case the +warp has not been doubled, the single thread having, as a consequence, +exactly the same relation to the opposing series as corresponding +threads in the first form of fabric presented. The impression, of which +this is only a part, indicates that the cloth was considerably distorted +when applied to the soft clay. The slipping of one of the woof threads +is well shown in the upper part of the figure.</p> + +<p>The fabric shown in Fig. 77 has been impressed upon an earthen vessel +from Macon, Ga. It has been very well and neatly formed, and all the +details of fiber, twist, and combination can be made out.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig77"><img src = "images/fig77.jpg" width = "428" +height = "267" alt = "figure 77"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 77.—From ancient pottery, +Georgia.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The example given in Fig. 78 differs from the preceding in the +spacing and pairing of the warp cords. It was obtained from a fragment +of ancient pottery recently collected at Reel Foot Lake, Tennessee.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig78"><img src = "images/fig78.jpg" width = "418" +height = "185" alt = "figure 78"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 78.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +<a name = "page408"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">408</span> +Fig. 79 represents another interesting specimen from the pottery of the +same locality. The border is woven somewhat differently from the body of +the fabric, two threads of the woof being included in each loop of the +warp.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig79"><img src = "images/fig79.jpg" width = "444" +height = "224" alt = "figure 79"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 79.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig80"><img src = "images/fig80.jpg" width = "299" +height = "146" alt = "figure 80"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 80.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Fig. 80 is from the pottery of the same locality. The threads are +much more closely woven than those already given.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig81"><img src = "images/fig81.jpg" width = "461" +height = "254" alt = "figure 81"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 81.—From a piece of clay, +Arkansas.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The next example, Fig. 81, impressed upon a fragment of clay from +Arkansas, has been made of coarse, well-twisted cords. An ornamental +border has been produced by looping the cords of the woof, which seem to +have been five in number, each one passing over four others before +recrossing the warp.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<p> +<a name = "page409"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">409</span> +In no locality are so many fine impressions of textiles upon clay +vessels found as in the ancient salt-making districts of the Mississippi +Valley. The huge bowl or tub-like vessels used by the primitive +salt-makers have very generally been modeled in coarse nets, or +otherwise have had many varieties of netting impressed upon them for +ornament.</p> + +<p>In the accompanying <a href = "#plate">plate</a> (XXXIX) two fine +examples of these impressions are given. They are somewhat more clearly +defined than the majority of those from which the other illustrations +are made.</p> + +<p>Fig. 82 illustrates a specimen in which every detail is perfectly +preserved. Only a small portion of the original is shown in the cut. The +cords are heavy and well twisted, but the spacing is somewhat irregular. +I observe one interesting fact in regard to this impression. The fabric +has apparently been applied to the inverted vessel, as the loose cords +of the woof which run parallel with the rim droop or hang in festoons +between the cords of the warp as shown in the illustration, which is +here placed, as drawn from the inverted fragment. The inference to be +drawn from this fact is that the fabric was applied to the exterior of +the vessel, after it was completed and inverted, for the purpose of +enhancing its beauty. When we recollect, however, that these vessels +were probably built for service only, with thick walls and rude finish, +we are at a loss to see why so much pains should have been taken in +their embellishment. It seems highly probable that, generally, the +inspiring idea was one of utility, and that the fabric served in some +way as a support to the pliable clay, or that the network of shallow +impressions was supposed to act after the manner of a <i>dégraissant</i> +to neutralize the tendency to fracture.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig82"><img src = "images/fig82.jpg" width = "460" +height = "254" alt = "figure 82"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 82.—From fragment of a large +salt vessel, Saline River, Illinois.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig83"><img src = "images/fig83.jpg" width = "367" +height = "219" alt = "figure 83"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 83.—From a salt vessel, +Saline River, Illinois.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Another example from the same locality is shown in Fig. 83. This is +similar to that shown in the lower figure of <a href = "#plate">Plate +XXXIX</a>. It is very neatly woven of evenly spun and well-twisted +thread. The double series is widely spaced as shown in the drawing.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig84"><img src = "images/fig84.jpg" width = "364" +height = "304" alt = "figure 84"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 84.—From ancient pottery, +Missouri.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The very interesting specimen illustrated in Fig. 84 was obtained +from a small fragment of pottery found in Fort Ripley County, +<a name = "page410"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">410</span> +Missouri. The combination of the two series of threads or strands +clearly indicates the type of fabric under consideration, the twisted +cords of the warp being placed very far apart. The remarkable feature of +this example is the character of the woof, which seems to be a broad +braid formed by plaiting three strands of untwisted fiber, probably +bast. All the details are shown in the most satisfactory manner in the +clay cast.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig85"><img src = "images/fig85.jpg" width = "396" +height = "237" alt = "figure 85"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 85.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +<a name = "page411"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">411</span> +The open character of the web in this specimen assists very much, in +explaining the structure of tightly-woven examples such as that shown in +Fig. 85, in which the cross cords are so closely placed that the broad +bands of the opposing series are completely hidden.</p> + +<p>I have made the drawing to show fillets of fiber appearing at the +ends. These do not appear in the impression. It is highly probable, +however, that these fillets are plaited bands, as in the preceding +example. They are wide and flat, giving somewhat the effect of +basket-work of splints or of rushes. This specimen was obtained in +Carter County, Tennessee.</p> + +<p>We have a few pieces of this variety of fabric which have been +preserved by contact with the salts of copper. Professor Farquharson +describes an example from a mound on the banks of the Mississippi River, +near the city of Davenport. It had been wrapped about a copper implement +resembling a celt, and was at the time of its recovery in a very perfect +state of preservation. In describing this cloth Mr. Farquharson says +that</p> +<blockquote> +"the warp is composed of four cords, that is, of <i>two double and +twisted</i> cords, and the woof of <i>one</i> such doubled and twisted +cord which passes between the two parts of the warp; the latter being +twisted at each change, allowing the cords to be brought close together +so as to cover the woof almost entirely."</blockquote> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig86"><img src = "images/fig86.jpg" width = "311" +height = "497" alt = "figure 86"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 86.—Fabric from a copper +celt, Iowa.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>His illustration +<a name = "page412"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">412</span> +is somewhat erroneous, the artist not having had quite a clear +understanding of the combination of threads. This cloth has a general +resemblance to ordinary coffee-sacking. In Fig. 86 I give an +illustration of this fabric derived from the opposite side of the +celt.</p> + +<p>Although I am not quite positive, it is my opinion, after having +examined the specimen carefully, that the body of the cloth belongs to +my first group and that the border only is of the second group. My +section and drawing give a clear idea of the construction of this +fabric. A finely-preserved bit of cloth belonging to the group under +consideration was recently found fixed to the surface of a copper image +from one of the Etowah mounds in Georgia.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig87"><img src = "images/fig87.jpg" width = "394" +height = "257" alt = "figure 87"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 87.—Modern work, Vancouver's +Island.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>This form of weaving is very common among the productions of the +modern tribes of Western America. A very good example is shown in Fig. +87, which represents the border of a cape like garment made by the +<a name = "page413"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">413</span> +Clyoquot Indians, of Vancouver's Island. It is woven, apparently, of the +fiber of bark, both web and woof showing considerable diversity in the +size of the cords. The border has been strengthened by sewing in a +broad, thin fillet of rawhide.</p> + +<p>The beautiful mats of the northwest coast peoples, from California to +Ounalaska, are often woven in this manner, the materials being bast, +grass, or rushes.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<p>The Lake Dwellers of Switzerland seem to have made a great many +varieties of cloth of this type. I have reproduced four examples from +the great work of Dr. Keller. Fig. 88 is copied from his Fig. 1, Plate +CXXXV. It exhibits some variations from the type, double strips of bast +being bound by a woof consisting of alternate strips of bast and cords. +It is from Robenhausen.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig88"><img src = "images/fig88.jpg" width = "182" +height = "310" alt = "figure 88"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig89"><img src = "images/fig89.jpg" width = "346" +height = "329" alt = "figure 89"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption" colspan = "2"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Figs.</span> 88 and 89.—Fabrics from the +Lake Dwellings, Switzerland.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In Figs. 89 and 90 we have typical examples from the same locality. +The woof series seems to consist of untwisted strands of bast or +flax.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig90"><img src = "images/fig90.jpg" width = "228" +height = "196" alt = "figure 90"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 90.—Fabric from the Lake +Dwellings, Switzerland.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h4><a name = "third">THIRD GROUP.</a></h4> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig91"><img src = "images/fig91.jpg" width = "46" +height = "183" alt = "figure 91"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 91.—Section.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>A third form of fabric is distinguished from the last by marked +peculiarities in the combinations of the threads. The threads of the +warp are arranged in pairs as in the last form described, but are +twisted in such a way as to inclose two of the opposing series instead +of one, each succeeding pair of warp threads taking up alternate pairs +of the woof threads, as shown in the section, Fig. 91. This is a very +interesting variety, and apparently one that would possess coherence and +elasticity of a very high order.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig92"><img src = "images/fig92.jpg" width = "248" +height = "338" alt = "figure 92"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 92.—Theoretical device for +weaving third group.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In Fig. 92 a simple scheme of plaiting or weaving this material is +suggested. It will be seen to differ from the last chiefly in the way in +which the woof is taken up by the warp.</p> + +<p>The ancient pottery of the Mississippi Valley furnishes many examples +of this fabric. It is made of twisted cords and threads of sizes similar +<a name = "page414"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">414</span> +to those of the other work described, varying from the weight of +ordinary spool cotton to that of heavy twine. The mesh is generally +quite open.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig93"><img src = "images/fig93.jpg" width = "341" +height = "235" alt = "figure 93"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 93.—From the ancient pottery +of Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In Fig. 93 we have a very well preserved example from Reelfoot Lake, +Tennessee. It was obtained from a large fragment of coarse pottery. +Other pieces are nearly twice as coarse, while some are much finer.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<p>Figs. 94 and 95 are finer specimens from the same locality.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig94"><img src = "images/fig94.jpg" width = "263" +height = "95" alt = "figure 94"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig95"><img src = "images/fig95.jpg" width = "318" +height = "112" alt = "figure 95"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 94.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 95.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption" colspan = "2"> +From the ancient pottery of Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>We have also good examples from Saline River, Illinois. They are +obtained from fragments of the gigantic salt vessels so plentiful in +that locality.</p> + +<p> +<a name = "page415"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">415</span> +The upper figure of <a href = "#plate">Plate XXXIX</a> illustrates one +of these specimens. Other examples hare been obtained from Roane County, +Tennessee.</p> + +<p>A piece of charred cloth from a mound in Butler County, Ohio, has +been woven in this manner. Foster has described examples of the two +preceding forms from the same locality. The material used is a vegetable +fiber obtained from the bark of trees or from some fibrous weed. This +specimen is now in the National Museum.</p> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig96"><img src = "images/fig96.jpg" width = "394" +height = "186" alt = "figure 96"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 96.—From ancient pottery, +Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>An interesting variety of this form is given in Fig. 96. It is from a +small piece of pottery exhumed from a mound on Fain's Island, Jefferson +County, Tennessee. The threads of the woof are quite close together, +those of the web far apart.</p> + +<p>A very fine example of this variety of fabric was obtained by Dr. +Tarrow from an ancient cemetery near Dos Pueblos, Cal. It is illustrated +in Fig. 2, Plate XIV, vol. VII, of Surveys West of the 100th Meridian.<a +class = "tag" name = "tag4" href = "#note4">4</a> In describing it, +Professor Putnam says that the fiber is probably obtained from a species +of <i>yucca</i>. He says that</p> +<blockquote> +"the woof is made of two strands, crossing the warp in such a manner +that the strands alternate in passing, over and under it, and at the +same time inclosing two alternate strands, of the latter, making a +letter X figure of the warp, united at the center of the X by the double +strands of the woof."</blockquote> +<p>It should be noticed that the series of cords called the woof by +Professor Putnam are designated as warp in my own descriptions. The +illustration shows a fabric identical with that given in the upper +figure of <a href = "#plate">Plate XXXIX</a>, and the description quoted +describes perfectly the type of fabric under consideration.</p> + +<p> +<a name = "page416"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">416</span> +This method of weaving is still practiced by some of the western tribes, +as may be seen by a visit to the national collection.</p> + +<p>A somewhat complicated arrangement of the threads may be seen in the +fabric shown in Fig. 97. It is clearly only a variation of the +combination just described. The manner in which the threads pass over, +under, and across each other can be more easily understood by reference +to the figure than by any description. It comes from one of the +Northwest coast tribes.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig97"><img src = "images/fig97.jpg" width = "442" +height = "173" alt = "figure 97"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 97.—Modern fabric, Northwest +coast.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h4><a name = "fourth">FOURTH GROUP.</a></h4> + +<p>A fourth form of fabric, illustrated in Fig. 98, is of very rare +occurrence on our fictile remains.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig98"><img src = "images/fig98.jpg" width = "478" +height = "180" alt = "figure 98"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 98.—Diagonal fabric, ancient +pottery of Tennessee.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>It is a very neatly woven diagonal from the ancient pottery of Polk +County, Tennessee. Two series of cords have been interwoven at right +angles to each other, but so arranged as to produce a diagonal pattern. +One series of the cords is fine and well twisted, the other coarser and +very slightly twisted.</p> + +<p>The remarkable sample of matting shown in Fig. 99 is from a small +piece of pottery from Alabama. It has been worked in the diagonal +<a name = "page417"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">417</span> +style, but is somewhat different from the last example. It has probably +been made of rushes or heavy blades of grass.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig99"><img src = "images/fig99.jpg" width = "453" +height = "215" alt = "figure 99"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 99.—From the ancient pottery +of Alabama.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig100"><img src = "images/fig100.jpg" width = "385" +height = "301" alt = "figure 100"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 100.—From ancient pottery, +Iowa.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>The texture shown in Fig. 100 is from a rather indistinct impression +upon a small fragment of pottery from Iowa. One series of the strands +seems to have been quite rigid, while the other has been pliable, and +appear in the impression only where they have crossed the rigid series. +The dotted lines indicate their probable course on the under side of the +cross threads.</p> + +<p>This form of fabric is very common in modern work.</p> + + +<h4><a name = "fifth">FIFTH GROUP.</a></h4> + +<p> +In Fig. 101 I present a variety of ancient fabric which has not to my +knowledge been found upon ceramic products. This specimen shows +<a name = "page418"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">418</span> +the method of plaiting sandals practiced by the ancient inhabitants of +Kentucky. Numbers of these very interesting relics have been obtained +from the great caves of that State. They are beautifully woven, and well +shaped to the foot.</p> + +<p>The fiber has the appearance of bast and is plaited in untwisted +strands, after the manner shown in the illustration. Professor Putman +describes a number of cast-off sandals from Salt Cave, Kentucky, as +"neatly made of finely braided and twisted leaves of rushes."<a class = +"tag" name = "tag5" href = "#note5">5</a></p> + +<p>Fig. 102 illustrates a somewhat similar method of plaiting +practiced by the Lake Dwellers of Switzerland, from one of Keller's +figures.<a class = "tag" name = "tag6" href = "#note6">6</a></p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig101"><img src = "images/fig101.jpg" width = "283" +height = "329" alt = "figure 101"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig102"><img src = "images/fig102.jpg" width = "174" +height = "257" alt = "figure 102"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 101.—Plaiting of a sandal, +Kentucky cave.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 102.—Braiding done by +the<br> Lake-Dwellers.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h4><a name = "sixth">SIXTH GROUP.</a></h4> + +<p>The art of making nets of spun and twisted cords seems to have been +practiced by many of the ancient peoples of America. Beautiful examples +have been found in the <i>huacas</i> of the Incas and in the tombs of +the Aztecs. They were used by the prehistoric tribes of California and +the ancient inhabitants of Alaska. Nets were in use by the Indians of +Florida and Virginia at the time of the discovery, and the ancient +pottery of the Atlantic States has preserved impressions of a number of +varieties. It is possible that some of these impressions may be from +European nets, but we have plentiful historical proof that nets of hemp +were in use by the natives, and as all of this pottery is very old it is +probable that the impressions upon the fragments are from nets of native +manufacture.</p> + +<p>Wyman states that nets or net impressions have not been found among +the antiquities of Tennessee. I have found, however, that the pottery of +Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland furnish examples of netting +<a name = "page419"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">419</span> +in great numbers. In many cases the meshes have been distorted by +stretching and overlapping so that the fabric cannot be examined in +detail; in other cases the impressions have been so deep that casts +cannot be taken, and in a majority of cases the fragments are so decayed +that no details of the cords and their combinations can be +made out.</p> + +<!--separate tables for differently sized floats--> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig103"><img src = "images/fig103.jpg" width = "425" +height = "327" alt = "figure 103"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 103.—From ancient pottery, +District of Columbia.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In Fig. 103 we have a thoroughly satisfactory restoration from a +small fragment of pottery picked up in the District of Columbia. It is +shown a little larger than natural size in the drawing. The impression +is so perfect that the twist of the cord and the form of the knot may be +seen with ease. Most of the examples from this locality are of much +finer cord and have a less open mesh than the specimen illustrated. It +is a noteworthy fact that in one of these specimens an incised pattern +has been added to the surface of the soft clay after the removal of the +net.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig104"><img src = "images/fig104.jpg" width = "413" +height = "223" alt = "figure 104"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 104.—Net from the pottery of +North Carolina.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "figright" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig105"><img src = "images/fig105.jpg" width = "268" +height = "167" alt = "figure 105"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 105.—Net from the pottery of +North Carolina.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Recent collections from the mounds of Western North Carolina have +brought to light many examples of net-marked pottery. Generally the +impressions are quite obscure, but enough can be seen in the cast to +<a name = "page420"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">420</span> +show clearly the character of the fabric. The restoration given in Fig. +104 represents an average mesh, others being finer and others coarser. +Another specimen from the same collection is shown in Fig. 105. The +impression is not very distinct, bat there is an apparent doubling of +the cords, indicating a very unusual combination. It is possible that +this may have come from the imperfect imprinting, but I can detect no +indications of a shifting of the net upon the soft clay.</p> + +<p class = "fullclear"> + +<p>Many interesting examples could be given, both from the ancient and +modern work of the inhabitants of the Pacific coast, but for the present +I shall content myself by presenting a single example from the Lake +Dwellings of Switzerland (Fig. 106):</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig106"><img src = "images/fig106.jpg" width = "300" +height = "287" alt = "figure 106"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 106.—Net from the Swiss Lake +Dwellings. Keller, plate, CXXX.</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h4><a name = "misc">MISCELLANEOUS FORMS.</a></h4> + +<p>The forms of fabrics used by the ancient tribes of the Middle and +Northern Atlantic States in the manufacture and ornamentation of their +pottery have differed materially from those used in the South and West. +As a rule the fragments are smaller and the impressions less perfectly +preserved. The fabrics have been more complicated and less carefully +applied to the vessel. In many cases the impressions seem to have been +made from disconnected bands, belts, or strips of cloth. Single cords, +<a name = "page421"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">421</span> +or cords arranged in groups by rolling on sticks, or by other +contrivances, have been extensively employed. Baskets have doubtless +been used, some of which have been woven, but others have apparently +been of bark or skin, with stitched designs of thread or quills. Some of +the impressions suggest the use of woven vessels or fabrics filled up +with clay or resin, so that the prominences only are imprinted, or +otherwise cloths may have been used in which raised figures were +worked.</p> + +<p>Fig. 107 is obtained from a fragment of pottery from New Jersey. The +impressions are extremely puzzling, but are such as I imagine might be +made by the use of a basket, the meshes of which had been filled up with +clay or resin so that only the more prominent ridges or series of thongs +remain uncovered to give impressions upon the clay. But the threads or +thongs indicate a pliable net rather than a basket, and the appearance +of the horizontal threads at the ends of the series of raised stitches +suggests that possibly the material may have been bark or smooth cloth +with a heavy pattern stitched into it.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig107"><img src = "images/fig107.jpg" width = "375" +height = "264" alt = "figure 107"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 107.—From the ancient +pottery of New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Very similar to the above is the example given in Fig. 108, also +derived from the pottery of New Jersey.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig108"><img src = "images/fig108.jpg" width = "400" +height = "185" alt = "figure 108"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 108.—From the ancient +pottery of New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Fig. 109 illustrates an impression upon another fragment from the +same state. This impression may have been made by a piece of birch bark +or fine fabric with a pattern sewed into it with cords or quills.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture rightpad"> +<a name = "fig109"><img src = "images/fig109.jpg" width = "198" +height = "275" alt = "figure 109"></a></td> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig110"><img src = "images/fig110.jpg" width = "226" +height = "297" alt = "figure 110"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption rightpad"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 109.—From the ancient +pottery of New Jersey.</td> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 110.—From the ancient +pottery of Pennsylvania.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p> +<a name = "page422"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">422</span> +Fig. 110 illustrates an impression upon a large, well-made vase, with +scalloped rim, from Easton, Pa. The character of the fabric is difficult +to make out, the impression suggesting bead-work. That it is from a +fabric, however, is evident from the fact that there is system and +uniformity in the arrangement of markings, the indentations alternating +as in the impressions of fabrics of the simplest type. Yet there is an +appearance of patchwork in the impression that suggests separate +applications of the material.</p> + +<p>In Figs. 111 and 112 we have what appear to be impressions of bands +or belts. The first shown consists of six parallel cords, coarse and +well twisted, with a border of short cord indentations placed at regular +intervals. This is a very usual form in all parts of the country, from +the Mandan towns of the Missouri to Florida. It is possible that the +cords may in this case have been separately impressed, but the example +given +<a name = "page423"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">423</span> +in Fig. 112 is undoubtedly from, a woven band or belt, the middle +portion of which seems to have been a closely-woven cloth, with a sort +of pattern produced by series of raised or knotted threads. The borders +consist of single longitudinal cord impressions with an edging of short +cord indentations placed at right angles to the belt.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig111"><img src = "images/fig111.jpg" width = "419" +height = "219" alt = "figure 111"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 111.—From the ancient +pottery of Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig112"><img src = "images/fig112.jpg" width = "374" +height = "310" alt = "figure 112"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 112.—From the ancient +pottery of New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Similar to the last is the very effective decorative design impressed +upon a large fragment of pottery from Alabama, shown in Fig. 113. The +<a name = "page424"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">424</span> +peculiarity of this example is the use of plaited instead of twisted +cords. The work is neatly done and very effective. It seems to me almost +certain that single cords have been used. They have been so imprinted as +to form a zone, filled with groups of lines placed at various angles. An +ornamental border of short lines has been added, as in the examples +previously given.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig113"><img src = "images/fig113.jpg" width = "594" +height = "220" alt = "figure 113"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 113.—From the ancient +pottery of Alabama.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>Two other examples of cord ornamentation, which may be duplicated +from the pottery of almost any of the Atlantic States, are presented in +Figs. 114 and 115, the first from a fragment of pottery from Charles +County, Maryland, and the other from the pottery of Alabama.</p> + +<table class = "figure" summary = "figure"> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig114"><img src = "images/fig114.jpg" width = "496" +height = "266" alt = "figure 114"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 114.—Cord-markings from +ancient pottery of Maryland.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "picture"> +<a name = "fig115"><img src = "images/fig115.jpg" width = "457" +height = "277" alt = "figure 115"></a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class = "caption"> +<span class = "smallcaps">Fig.</span> 115.—Cord-markings from +ancient pottery of Alabama.</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>It will readily be seen that it is extremely difficult to draw a line +between an ornamentation produced by the use of single or grouped cords +and that made by the use of fabrics.</p> + +<p>It is not less difficult to say just how much of this use of cords +and fabrics is to be attributed to manufacture simply and how much to +ornament.</p> + +<p>Although the restorations here presented certainly throw considerable +light upon the textile fabrics of the ancient inhabitants of the +<a name = "page425"> </a> +<span class = "pagenum">425</span> +Atlantic States, it cannot be affirmed that anything like a complete +idea of their fabrics has been gained. Impressions upon pottery +represent a class of work utilized in the fictile arts. We cannot say +what other fabrics were produced and used for other purposes.</p> + +<p>However this may be, attention should be called to the fact that the +work described, though varied and ingenious, exhibits no characters in +execution or design not wholly consonant with the art of a stone-age +people. There is nothing superior to or specifically different from the +work of our modern Indians.</p> + +<p>The origin of the use of fabrics and of separate cords in the +ornamentation of pottery is very obscure. Baskets and nets were +doubtless in use by many tribes throughout their pottery making period. +The shaping of earthen vessels in or upon baskets either of plain bark +or of woven splints or of fiber must frequently have occurred. The +peculiar impressions left upon the clay probably came in time to be +regarded as ornamental, and were applied for purposes of embellishment +alone. Decorative art has thus been enriched by many elements of beauty. +These now survive in incised, stamped, and painted designs. The forms as +well as the ornamentation of clay vessels very naturally preserve traces +of the former intimacy of the two arts.</p> + +<p> </p> + +<p>Since the stereotyping of these pages I have come upon a short paper +by George E. Sellers (Popular Science Monthly, Vol. XI, p. 573), in +which is given what I believe to be a correct view of the use of nets +in the manufacture of the large salt vessels referred to on pages +<a href = "#page398">398</a> and <a href = "#page409">409</a>. The use +of interior conical moulds of indurated clay makes clear the reasons for +the reversed festooning of the cords to which I called attention.</p> + +<hr> + +<a name = "page426"> </a> +<!--anchor for completeness--> + +<h5><a name = "notes">FOOTNOTES</a></h5> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note1" href = "#tag1">1.</a> +Jewett, Llewellynn: Grave mounds and their contents, p. 92.</div> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note2" href = "#tag2">2.</a> +Keller: Lake-Dwellers. Fig. 2, Pl. CXXXIV.</div> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note3" href = "#tag3">3.</a> +Foster: Prehistoric Times.</div> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note4" href = "#tag4">4.</a> +Putnam, F. W., in Vol. VII of Surveys West of the 100th Meridian, page +244.</div> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note5" href = "#tag5">5.</a> +Putnam, F. W. Eighth Annual Report of the Peabody Museum, +p. 49.</div> + +<div class = "footnote"><a name = "note6" href = "#tag6">6.</a> +Keller, Dr. F. Lake Dwellers. Fig. 3; Pl. CXXXVI.</div> + +<hr> + +<h5><a name = "index">INDEX</a></h5> + +<div class = "mynote"> +Transcriber's Note:<br> +Some browsers will not display marginal page numbers correctly. If an +Index link seems to take you to the wrong page, the link is right and +the visible page number is wrong. +</div> + +<table class = "index" summary = "index A-J"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Cord-markings on pottery +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page423">423</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Diagonal textiles +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page416">416</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Fabrics, Diagonal +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page417">417</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +Forms of +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page401">401</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +from New Jersey +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page421">421</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " Iowa +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page411">411</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " Mississippi Valley +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page408">408</a>-411</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " Southern States +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page407">407</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +of lake dwellers +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page413">413</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +Miscellaneous +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page415">415</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Farquharson, Prof., describes fabric from Iowa +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page411">411</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Holmes, W. H., Catalogue of Ethnological collections +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page393">393</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Jewett, L., British vase from the work of +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page399">399</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index K"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Keller, Dr. F., on fabrics of Swiss lake dwellers +</div></td> +<td class = "number compact"><a href = "#page404">404</a>, +<a href = "#page412">412</a>, <a href = "#page413">413</a>, +<a href = "#page418">418</a>, <a href = "#page420">420</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index L"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Lake dwellings, Fabrics from Swiss +</div></td> +<td class = "number compact"><a href = "#page403">403</a>, +<a href = "#page412">412</a>, <a href = "#page413">413</a>, +<a href = "#page418">418</a>, <a href = "#page420">420</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index M-P"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Mississippi Valley, Prehistoric fabrics from +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page408">408</a>-411</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Nets from Atlantic coast +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page419">419</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Osgood, Miss Kate C., reproduced methods of fabrication +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page400">400</a>, +<a href = "#page406">406</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Putnam, F. W., on ancient fabrics +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page415">415</a>, +<a href = "#page418">418</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index S"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Swiss lake dwellings, Fabrics from +</div></td> +<td class = "number compact"><a href = "#page403">403</a>, +<a href = "#page412">412</a>, <a href = "#page413">413</a>, +<a href = "#page418">418</a>, <a href = "#page420">420</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index T-We"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Textiles, Diagonal +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page417">417</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +Forms of +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page401">401</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +from Mississippi Valley, Prehistoric +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page408">408</a>-411</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " New Jersey, Prehistoric +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page421">421</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " Southern States, Prehistoric +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page407">407</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> + " Swiss Lake dwellers, Prehistoric +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page413">413</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +Miscellaneous +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page415">415</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +used to support pottery +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page398">398</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Vase from the work of Llewellyn Jewett, British +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page399">399</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Weaving illustrated from pottery, Materials used in +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page397">397</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index WeM"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc inset1"> +Modes of +</div></td> +<td class = "number"><a href = "#page401">401</a>, +<a href = "#page405">405</a>, <a href = "#page413">413</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + +<table class = "index notop" summary = "index Wy-Y"> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Wyman, Prof., on cord-marked pottery of Tennessee +</div></td> +<td class = "number compact"><a href = "#page398">398</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><div class = "toc"> +Yarrow, Dr., H. C., obtained fabrics from pottery in California +</div></td> +<td class = "number compact"><a href = "#page415">415</a></td> +</tr> + +</table> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PREHISTORIC TEXTILE FABRICS *** + +***** This file should be named 17370-h.htm or 17370-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/7/3/7/17370/ + +Produced by Louise Hope, Carlo Traverso, +1st-hand-history.org, and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. 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