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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills,
+by Luella Agnes Owen
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills
+
+
+Author: Luella Agnes Owen
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 19, 2005  [eBook #17354]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND
+BLACK HILLS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Stacy Brown Thellend and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
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+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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+
+
+
+
+
+CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS
+
+by
+
+LUELLA AGNES OWEN.
+
+Membre titulaire de la Société de Spéléologie, and
+Fellow of the American Geographical Society.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Entrance To Marble Cave. Page 25.]
+
+
+
+
+
+Cincinnati.
+The Editor Publishing Co.
+
+1898.
+
+
+
+
+The illustrations for this volume are from photographs by the following
+artists:
+
+The Views of Marble Cave, by Stone & De Groff, Warrensburg, Missouri.
+
+The Tower of Babel, The Chimes, The Knife Blade, The Needle, The Bridal
+Veil, by Meddaugh, of Leadville, So. Dakota.
+
+Top of Glacier, by L.W. Marble, Wind Cave, So. Dakota.
+
+White Onyx Masses, Fairies' Palace, by J.W. Pike, Hot Springs, So.
+Dakota.
+
+The Wilderness Pinery, by D. Benton Miller, Alton, Missouri.
+
+Approaching Deadwood, by H.R. Locke & Co., Deadwood, So. Dakota.
+
+Copyrighted
+The Editor Publishing Company.
+1898.
+
+
+
+
+TO
+MY MOTHER
+THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY
+DEDICATED.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER.                              PAGE.
+
+   I A General View                    1
+
+  II Marble Cave                      25
+
+ III Marble Cave Continued            43
+
+  IV Fairy Cave and Powell Cave       58
+
+   V Other Stone County Caves         73
+
+  VI Oregon County Caves              82
+
+ VII The Grand Gulf                   95
+
+VIII The Black Hills and Bad Lands   103
+
+  IX Wind Cave                       113
+
+   X Wind Cave Continued             127
+
+  XI   "    "       "                141
+
+ XII   "    "   Concluded            151
+
+XIII The Onyx Caves                  162
+
+ XIV Crystal Cave                    175
+
+  XV    "     "   Concluded          183
+
+ XVI Conclusion                      211
+
+
+
+
+Cave Regions of
+
+THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+A GENERAL VIEW.
+
+    "O'er mountains bright with snow and light,
+    We crystal hunters speed along,
+    While grots, and caves, and icy waves,
+    Each instant echo to our song;
+    And when we meet with stores of gems
+    We grudge not kings their diadems."
+                        --_Thomas Moore._
+
+
+The southern half of the State of Missouri, and the Black Hills of South
+Dakota, offer exceptionally delightful regions for the study of caves,
+or Speleology as it has been named, and the sister sciences of geology
+and geography at the same time. In fact it is impossible to study either
+without giving attention to the other two, and therefore, instead of
+being separate sciences, they are the three branches of a great
+scientific trinity.
+
+The regions here referred to enjoy the advantage, and at the same time
+suffer the disadvantage, of being comparatively little known to the ever
+restless tide of tourists who naturally hail with pleasure the
+announcement that some easily accessible, and thoroughly charming spot,
+has escaped their attention altogether, with a marvelous store of
+attractions which are both extremely old and wholly new.
+
+Each of these regions has a peculiar geological history not repeated in
+any other portions of the earth's surface: each is blessed with its own
+peculiar style of beautiful scenery: and each vies with the other and
+all the world besides for the supremacy of its truly wonderful caves.
+Yet it should be well understood that the claims are not based on an
+unworthy spirit of rivalry, nor any desire to deny the greatness and
+beauty of already famous members of the Cave family. It is simply an
+announcement that the family is much larger than has been generally
+supposed, and the more recently presented members worthy of the full
+measure of distinguished honors.
+
+The geological authorities of both states have for many years mentioned
+the beauty and importance of these regions, and urged their claims to
+public attention, but have been prevented, by the pressure of other
+duties, from giving to the caves such careful study and full reports as
+they deserve, as it would have been a pleasure to give, and as has been
+possible in states of less extent where the general work of the
+department is more advanced, and the volume of tourist travel created an
+early demand for scientific explanation.
+
+Without any great difficulty we can understand the process of cave
+excavation by the action of percolating acidulated water on the
+limestone, and its subsequent removal as the volume of surface drainage
+diverted to the new channel gradually increased. But it is not so easy
+to offer a reason for the varied forms with which the caves are
+afterwards decorated. Why is it the charmed waters do not leave the
+evidence of their slow passage only in plain surfaces of varying widths,
+and the stalactites and stalagmites whose formation we can readily
+account for? And why do not the deposits take the same forms in all
+caves with only such variations as would naturally result from
+differences in topography? The law is written, but in unfamiliar
+characters that render our reading slow and uncertain. Yet it is
+conspicuously noticeable that those caves showing the most delicately
+fragile and wonderfully varied forms of decoration are those traversed
+by the most sweeping and changeable, or even reversible, currents of
+air; which might lead to the conclusion that the moisture is sprayed or
+converted into a light, misty vapor, and then deposited in exactly the
+same manner as the beautiful frost-work at Niagara: the direction and
+force of the current determining the location of the frail deposits.
+
+Since the largest and most important caves occur in limestone, a little
+special attention to the cause of their occurrence there may serve to
+show that although speleology has only recently received its name and
+been elevated to the rank of a separate and independent science, it is
+one of the earth's ancient institutions.
+
+Our geologists, who have unearthed many secrets not dreamed of even in
+Humboldt's "good phylosopy," have settled the question of how the
+different kinds of caves were formed, according to the character of
+rocks they are in, or their location and depth, and the natural agencies
+to whose action they show signs of having been subjected.
+
+Dr. H.C. Hovey, in his "Celebrated American Caverns," says: "In visiting
+caves of large extent, one is at first inclined to regard the long
+halls, huge rifts, deep pits and lofty domes, as evidences of great
+convulsions of nature, whereby the earth has been violently rent
+asunder. But, while mechanical forces have had their share in the work,
+as has been shown, the main agent in every case has been the
+comparatively gentle, invisible gas known as carbonic acid. This is
+generated by the decay of animal and vegetable substances, and is to a
+considerable degree soluble in water. Under ordinary circumstances one
+measure of water will absorb one measure of carbonic acid; and the eye
+will detect no difference in its appearance. Under pressure the power of
+absorption is rapidly increased, until the water thus surcharged has an
+acid taste, and effervesces on flowing from the earth, as in Saratoga
+water.
+
+"Rain-water, falling amid leaves and grass, and sinking into the soil,
+absorbs large quantities of carbonic acid. On reaching the underlying
+limestone, the latter is instantly attacked by the acidulated water in
+which it is dissolved and carried away.
+
+"It is agreed among geologists, amazing as the statement may seem, that
+the immense caverns of Virginia, Kentucky and Indiana, including Mammoth
+Cave itself (the largest of all), were eaten out of the solid mass of
+limestone by the slow, patient, but irresistible action of acidulated
+water."
+
+Professor N.S. Shaler says: "The existence of deep caverns is a sign
+that the region has long been above the sea."
+
+Through the kindness of Professor C.J. Norwood, Chief Inspector and
+Curator of the Geological Department of Kentucky, it is possible to
+quote the first official report made on the caves of that state and
+published in 1856, in Volume I., Kentucky Geological Survey Reports.
+Dr. Norwood says: "Referring to the 'Subcarboniferous Limestone' (now
+known as the St. Louis group of the Mississippian series), Dr. Owen
+says: 'The southern belt of this formation is wonderfully cavernous,
+especially in its upper beds, which being more argillaceous, and
+impregnated with earths and alkalies, are disposed to produce salts,
+which oozing through the pores of the stone effloresce on its surface,
+and thus tend to disintegrate and scale off, independent of the solvent
+effects of the carbonated water. Beneath overhanging ledges of
+limestone, quantities of fine earthy rubbish can be seen, weathered off
+from such causes. In these I have detected sulphate of lime, sulphate of
+magnesia, nitrate of lime, and occasionally sulphate of soda. The
+tendency which some calcareous rocks have to produce nitrate of lime is,
+probably, one of the greatest causes of disintegration.'"
+
+"Most extensive subterranean areas thus have been excavated or
+undermined in Edmonson, Hart, Grayson, Butler, Logan, Todd, Christian
+and Trig. In the vicinity of Green River, in the first of these
+counties, the known avenues of the Mammoth Cave amount to two hundred
+and twenty-three, the united length of the whole being estimated, by
+those best acquainted with the Cave, at one hundred and fifty miles; say
+that the average width and height of these passages amount to seven
+yards each way, which is perhaps near the truth; this would give upwards
+of twelve million cubic yards of cavernous space which has been
+excavated through the agency of calcareous waters and atmospheric
+vicissitudes."
+
+Page 169: "On the south side of Green River the platform of limestone
+forming the descent into Mammoth Cave is two hundred and thirty-two feet
+above Green River."
+
+"The entrance to the cave, being thirty-eight feet lower than this bed
+of limestone, is one hundred and ninety-four feet above Green River. In
+the above two hundred and thirty-two feet there are several heavy masses
+of sandstone, viz.: at one hundred and twenty-five, one hundred and
+forty-five, one hundred and fifty, one hundred and sixty and two hundred
+and fifteen feet, but it is probable that most of these have tumbled
+from higher positions in the hill, as no alterations of sandstone have
+been observed at these levels in the cave. From an elevation of from two
+hundred and forty to two hundred and fifty feet, the prevalent rock is
+sandstone without pebbles, which can be seen extending up to three
+hundred and twelve feet to the foundation of the Cave Hotel. The united
+thickness of the limestone beds on this part of Green River, is about
+two hundred and thirty feet, capped with eighty feet of sandstone.
+About midway of the section on this part of Green River, are limestones
+of an obscure oolitic structure, but no true oolite was observed. Many
+of these limestones are of such composition as to be acted on freely by
+the elements of the atmosphere, which, in the form of nitric acid,
+combine with the earthy and alkaline bases of calcareous rock, and give
+rise to the formation of nitrates with the liberation of carbonic acid;
+hence the disintegrated rubbish of the caves yields nitrate of potash
+after being treated with the ley of ashes and subsequent evaporation of
+the saline lixivium. The wonderfully cavernous character of the
+subcarboniferous limestones of the Green River valley, and, indeed, of
+these particular members of the subcarboniferous group throughout a
+great part of its range in Kentucky and Indiana, is due in a great
+measure to this cause, together with the solvent and eroding effects of
+water charged with carbonic acid. The 'rock-houses' frequently
+encountered both in this formation and in the limestones of Silurian
+date, are produced by similar causes; the more easily disintegrated beds
+gradually crumbling away, while the more durable remain in overhanging
+ledges. By the oxidation of other elements, sulphates of oxide of iron
+and alkalies result, which, by double decomposition, with carbonate of
+lime, give rise to the formation of gypsums which appears in the form of
+rosettes, festoons and various other imitative forms on the walls and
+ceilings of the caves. Crystallizations of sulphate of soda and sulphate
+of magnesia are not uncommon, both in some of the caves and in sheltered
+situations under shelving rocks."
+
+The explanations thus given of the excavation and subsequent refilling
+and decoration of the limestone caves of Kentucky and Indiana apply
+equally well to those of other states; but it is to be remembered that
+at the time of Dr. Owen's report, onyx, the most beautiful and valuable
+of dripstones, had not yet been discovered in the United States; while
+now especially fine deposits are known in California, Utah, Missouri,
+South Dakota and Arkansas; the Missouri supply being exceptionally
+valuable on account of the marvelous delicacy and beauty of its
+coloring; nor can it soon be exhausted, as deposits have been found in
+eight counties and further exploration will no doubt discover more.
+
+Concerning the Subcarboniferous, or Mississippian Series in Part I.,
+Vol. IV., Missouri Geological Survey, Dr. C.R. Keyes says: "In the great
+interior basin of the Mississippi the basal series is exposed more or
+less continuously over broad areas, extending from northern Iowa to
+Alabama, and from Ohio to Mexico."
+
+While this broadly extended series of limestone is honey-combed in many
+places and all directions by wonderful caverns, those of the Ozark
+regions in Missouri, although comparatively little known, are well worth
+knowing, and are possibly the most ancient limestone caves in the world.
+Of the region in which they occur, Dr. Keyes, in the volume last quoted,
+says: "The chief typographical feature of the state has long been known
+in the Ozark uplift, a broad plateau with gentle quaquaversal slopes
+rising to a height of more than one thousand five hundred feet above
+mean tide, and extending almost entirely across the southern part of the
+district. On all sides the borders of this highland area are deeply
+grooved by numberless streams flowing in narrow gorges. Against its
+nucleus of very ancient granites and porphyries the Ozark series of
+magnesian limestone was laid down. Then the area occupied by these rocks
+was elevated, and around its margins were deposited successively the
+other members of the Paleozoic. The Ozark region was thus the first land
+to appear within the borders of the present state of Missouri." He
+further says: "Although it has long been known that the Magnesian
+Limestones are older than the Trenton, and that they lie immediately
+upon and against the Archæan crystallines unconformably, their exact
+geological age has always remained unsettled. There seems to be but
+little doubt, however, that part of the series is equivalent to the
+Calciferous of other regions. It is also pretty well determined that
+certain of the lower beds, all below the 'Saccharoidal' Sandstone
+perhaps, are representatives of the Upper Cambrian or Potsdam. These
+conclusions appear well grounded both upon stratigraphical and faunal
+evidence. The rocks of the Ozark region have not as yet received the
+necessary detailed study to enable the several lines of demarkation to
+be drawn with certainty. This investigation is now being carried on as
+rapidly as possible, and promises very satisfactory and interesting
+results in the near future."
+
+"The early geological reports represent the Magnesian Limestone series
+as made up of seven members. Following Swallow, these may be briefly
+described in the present connection. Beginning at the top, they are:
+
+First Magnesian Limestone.
+First, or Saccharoidal Sandstone.
+Second Magnesian Limestone.
+Second Sandstone.
+Third Magnesian Limestone.
+Third Sandstone.
+Fourth Limestone."
+
+"The Fourth" Magnesian Limestone, or lowest number of the Ozark series
+recognized, has its typical exposures along the Niangua and Osage rivers
+in Morgan and Camden counties.
+
+Professor Swallow, in his Missouri Geological Survey Reports I. and II.,
+1853 and 1854, says: "Caves, natural bridges and subterranean streams
+occur in the valley of the Osage and its tributaries." The same
+authority of forty years ago also mentions that "Some of the grandest
+scenery in the State is produced by the high castellated and mural
+bluffs of this (Third Magnesian Limestone) Formation, on the Niangua and
+the Osage." Another reference to the scenery on these rivers describes
+it as "Wild and grand, beautiful and unique;" with "gaudy-colored
+bluffs." In the section on building materials he remarks: "One of the
+most desirable of the Missouri marbles is in the Third Magnesian
+Limestone on the Niangua. It is fine-grained, crystalline,
+silico-magnesian limestone of a light drab, slightly tinged with
+peach-blossom, and beautifully clouded with the same hue or flesh color.
+It is twenty feet thick and crops out in the bluffs. This marble is
+rarely surpassed in the qualities which fit it for ornamental
+architecture."
+
+The Ozarks in the extreme southern portion of the state are even less
+known to the world, but the scenery is grand, the climate delightful,
+and the caves worthy of a visit for themselves alone. The State of
+Missouri being one third larger than England, and of equal size to
+Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and Denmark combined, it is not surprising
+that interesting discoveries are still to be expected.
+
+The climate is so varied on account of the range in latitude and
+altitude, and the natural resources are so great, the claim has been
+made that if the State were surrounded by an impassable wall, its
+citizens need not be deprived of any article necessary to a refined and
+luxurious mode of living: and according to Mr. Henry Gannett in "The
+Building of a Nation," the population in 1890 was 73.42 per cent. native
+whites of native parents, the colored a little less than 6 per cent.,
+and nearly two-thirds of the balance, native born of parents, one or
+both of whom were foreign.
+
+Although the Ozark region has not yet received sufficient attention to
+dull its charm for the explorer, the fact has been established that its
+earliest sedimentary rocks are of the Cambrian Age and still occupy
+mainly the position in which they were originally deposited. Therefore
+we need not be surprised to discover that some, at least, of the
+excavations are proportionately ancient; and that the Natural Bridges
+are the last remaining positive evidence of their former existence and
+final collapse. That the Natural Bridges of Missouri mark the
+destruction of more ancient caves than the one preserved to geological
+history by Virginia's grand attraction, seems quite evident. The greater
+age of the rocks indicates the possibility of earlier excavation while
+their undisturbed position suggests that destruction resulted, not from
+violent earth movement, but from the slow action of agencies requiring
+long periods of time.
+
+Before proceeding to a discussion of the caves visited personally for
+the gratification of private interest, it is desirable to know what
+attention has been given to the subject, incidentally, in the course of
+regular official duty on the Missouri Geological Survey.
+
+
+CAVES DESCRIBED IN THE STATE REPORTS.
+
+Although many unknown caves must yet be discovered in the imperfectly
+explored portions of the vast Ozark forests, these finds are already so
+numerous as to seldom attract attention according to their just
+desserts.
+
+One of the comparatively recent of these discoveries is Crystal Cave, at
+Joplin, described on page 566, Vol. VII., Missouri Geological Survey
+Report 1894.[1] It was opened in the lower workings of a shaft of the
+Empire Zinc Company, and "The entire surface of the cave, top, sides and
+bottom, is lined with calcite crystals, so closely packed together as
+to form a continuous sheet and most of them of great size, and well
+formed faces. Scalenohedra as much as two feet long are sometimes seen,
+and others a foot or more in length are common. Planes or crystal
+ghosts, sometimes with pyrite crystals, marking stages of growth in the
+calcite crystals, are often distinguishable. The entire absence of
+anything like stalactites is noticeable, and together with the presence
+of the crystals, show that the cave was completely filled with water
+during their growth." In the same volume, all those counties in the
+extreme southwest corner of the state, whose geological age has not
+heretofore been considered positively determined, are mapped as Lower
+Carboniferous, and Lower Silurian, with the Coal Measures covering
+portions of Barton and Jasper and appearing in a few small, scattered
+spots in Dade, Polk, Green and Christian counties, and some scanty lines
+of Devonian fringing the edges of the Silurian in Barton and McDonald.
+
+Other State reports make mention of many caves and fine springs, and
+also several natural bridges worthy of special notice. In Mr. G.C.
+Broadhead's report for 1873-1874, he gives a short but interesting
+chapter on caves and water supplies, in which he says that "Caves occur
+in the Third Magnesian Limestone, Saccharoidal Sandstone, Trenton,
+Lithographic, Encrinital and St. Louis Limestone."
+
+"In Eastern and Northeast Missouri there have not been found many large
+caves in the Encrinital Limestone, but the lower beds of this formation
+in Southwest Missouri often enclose very large caverns; among the latter
+may be included the caves of Green County with some in Christian and
+McDonald. Those in McDonald I have not seen, but they are reported to be
+very extensive and probably are situated in the Encrinital Limestone."
+
+Under the head of "Special Descriptions" he says: "On Sac River, in the
+north part of Green County, we find a cave with two entrances, one at
+the foot of a hill, opening toward Sac River, forty-five feet high and
+eighty feet wide. The other entrance is from the hill-top, one hundred
+and fifty feet back from the face of the bluff. These two passages
+unite. The exact dimensions of the cave are not known, but there are
+several beautiful and large rooms lined with stalactites and stalagmites
+which often assume both beautiful and grotesque life-like forms. The
+cave has been explored for several hundred yards, showing the formations
+to be thick silicious beds of the Lower Carboniferous formations."
+
+"Knox cave, in Green County, is said to be of large dimensions. I have
+not seen it, but some of its stalactites are quite handsome."
+
+"Wilson's Creek sinks beneath the Limestone and appears again below."
+
+"There are several caves near Ozark, Christian County, which issue from
+the same formation as those in Green County. On a branch of Finly Creek
+a stream disappears in a sink, appearing again three-quarters of a mile
+southeast through an opening sixty feet high by ninety-eight feet wide.
+Up stream the cave continues this size for a hundred yards and then
+decreases in size, and for the next quarter of a mile further it is
+generally ten by fourteen feet wide. A very clear, cool stream passes
+out, in which by careful search crawfish without eyes can be found."
+
+"There is another cave a few miles south of Ozark, and another ten miles
+southeast occurs in the Magnesian Limestone."
+
+"In Boone County there are several caves in the Encrinital Limestone.
+Conner's, the largest, is said to have been explored for a distance of
+eight miles."
+
+"In Pike and Lincoln there are several small caves occurring in the
+upper beds of Trenton Limestone, which are often very cavernous. On
+Sulphur Fork of Cuivre, there is a cave and Natural Bridge, to which
+parties for pleasure often resort. The bridge is tubular with twenty
+feet between the walls, and is one hundred feet long."
+
+"At J.P. Fisher's on Spencer Creek, Ralls County, there is a cave having
+an entrance of ninety feet wide by twenty feet high. The Lower Trenton
+beds occupy the floor, with the upper cavernous beds above. On the
+bluff, at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards back, there is a
+sink-hole which communicates with the cave. Within the cave is a cool,
+clear spring of water, and Mr. F. said he could keep meat fresh there
+for six weeks during midsummer."
+
+"The Third Magnesian Limestone which occupies such a large portion of
+Southwest Missouri, often contains very large caves. One of them, known
+as Friede's cave, is six or eight miles Northwest of Rolla, on Cave
+Spring Creek."
+
+"It is said to have been explored for several miles, but I only passed
+in a few hundred yards. The stalactites here are very beautiful,
+assuming the structure of satin spar. A very clear stream of water
+issues out. West of the Gasconade, on Clifty Creek, is a remarkable
+Natural Bridge which I have elsewhere described in Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 16."
+
+"Mr. Meek speaks of a large and interesting cave on Tavern Creek, in
+Miller County. Dr. Shumard estimates a cave on Bryant's Fork, in Ozark
+County, to be a mile and a half long."
+
+This description of Dr. Shumard's is in the Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 196, where he says:
+
+"The entrance is thirty-five feet wide and thirty feet high, and is
+situated at the foot of a perpendicular cliff, and far above the
+water-level of Bryant. Just within the entrance it expands to sixty or
+seventy feet, with a height of about fifty feet; and this part of the
+cave has been used by the citizens of the county as a place for holding
+camp-meeting. I estimated its length at not far short of one mile and a
+half. The main passage is in general quite spacious, the roof elevated,
+and the floor tolerably level, but often wet and miry. For some distance
+beyond the entrance there is not much to attract attention; but as we
+proceed, at the far extremity the chambers are quite as picturesque as
+the most noted of the well-known Mammoth Cave. The ceilings, sides and
+floor are adorned with a multitude of stalactites and stalagmites
+arranged in fanciful combinations, and assuming a variety of fantastic
+and beautiful forms."
+
+Many of these caves contain niter, which occurs as a mineral and not as
+evidence of former animal occupation, it being found in the form of
+effervescenses on the walls. Dr. Shumard mentions several of this
+character in Pulaski County, the most noted being Niter Cave, in the
+Third Magnesian Limestone, with a wide entrance thirty feet above the
+level of the Gasconade. On page 201, he also gives a charming
+description of one of the immense springs that are numerous in this
+region and that I have never seen elsewhere. He says:
+
+"Ozark County is bountifully supplied with springs of the finest water,
+and some of them of remarkably large size. The largest one is situated
+near the North Fork, in T. 24, R. 11 W., Sec. 32, and is known under the
+name of the Double Spring. It issues from near the base of a bluff of
+Sandstone and Magnesian Limestone, a few feet above the level of the
+North Fork. This spring discharges an immense volume of water, which is
+divided by a huge mass of Sandstone into two streams, with swift
+currents flowing in opposite directions to join the North Fork about one
+hundred and fifty yards distant from the spring. I estimated the width
+of these streams at not less than fifty yards. They are separated from
+the North Fork by a pretty wooded island one hundred yards long. The
+upper stream affords a good mill-site. I am informed that the quantity
+of water discharged by this magnificent spring is not materially
+diminished during the dryest seasons of the year. The temperature of the
+water measured at the edge of the spring, was found to be 56°; the
+temperature of the air at the same time, 59°. Other springs of
+considerable magnitude occur in various portions of the county, giving
+rise to beautiful and limpid streams."
+
+The descriptions of the Natural Bridge and Friede's cave, near Rolla,
+previously referred to as being on page 16 of the same volume, are as
+follows:
+
+"On Clifty Creek found the chert bed of Sec. 21-5 occurring about sixty
+feet from the top of the Third Magnesian Limestone, with a road passing
+over its upper surface, presenting it very favorably for observation. It
+seemed here to be broken by vertical cracks into large rhomboidal
+blocks. Further up this creek in a wild and secluded spot, observed a
+Natural Bridge with six feet of this chert bed at its base, and
+Silicious Magnesian Limestone above. The span of this bridge is about
+thirty feet, an elevation of opening about fifteen feet above the water,
+the thickness of the rock above is about twelve feet, and width on top
+about fifteen feet. Two small streams come together, one from the west
+and another from the south-west. A point of the bluff on the south-west
+fork spans the northern fork, and terminates about sixty feet beyond in
+a sharp point; a few large masses of rock lie near the termination of
+the promontory, and fifty feet beyond, the bluffs of the opposite hills
+rise abruptly from the bottoms. The bluffs, both above and below, are
+very precipitous, the middle and lower beds of the Third Magnesian
+Limestone forming perpendicular escarpments, frequently studded with
+cedar, some occurring on top of the bridge. A perfectly clear stream of
+water courses through this valley. The bottoms near are overspread with
+a dense growth of trees and vines, among which latter I noticed the
+Muscadine grape. The valley at this part being shut in by its
+perpendicular cliffs with not a path to guide the traveler through the
+dense thickets, is wildly picturesque and romantic in its loneliness."
+
+Of the cave he says: "This cave is a quarter of a mile east of Cave
+Spring Creek, and has a wide and elevated entrance; passing into it a
+hundred yards or more, the passage narrows, and in order to go further a
+stream of water has frequently to be waded through; this passage has
+been followed by some persons several miles without finding any object
+of interest; but a few hundred yards from the entrance, by diverging to
+the right, we enter a large chamber, studded with stalactites and
+stalagmites, many uniting and forming solid columns of support. Many of
+these are very beautiful, and often as white as alabaster. There are
+other large rooms, but they possess no peculiar interest. Found large
+deposits of earth on the floor having a saline taste."
+
+Of the extensive pine forests in Ozark County, he says: "The size and
+quality of the timber will compare favorably with that of the
+celebrated pineries of Wisconsin and Minnesota."
+
+In several other counties the pine is equally good, and other valuable
+timber everywhere abundant, although in a school geography published in
+1838, the following descriptions of this region occur:
+
+"The lowlands of the Mississippi are bounded by the region of the Ozark
+Mountains. With the exception of the alluvial tracts on the borders of
+the streams, it is extremely hilly and broken. The mountains rise from
+eight hundred to eighteen hundred feet above the streams, with rounded
+summits and often perpendicular cliffs, and have a rocky surface, which
+admits only a scanty growth of timber." * *
+
+"Missouri is generally a region of prairies and table lands, much of
+which, as already described, is almost destitute of timber and water. It
+is crossed by the Ozark Mountains, which form a rugged tract of
+considerable extent. Earthquakes are not infrequent in some parts of
+this state. The soil is not generally productive."
+
+A comparison of these curious views with the latest official reports is
+highly amusing, as well as suggestive that early impressions are liable
+to require modification.
+
+In addition to the wonderful springs of pure water, there are numerous
+fine mineral springs, among which are a number of Epsom salt springs.
+At Jacksonville, in Randolph County, there is a large mineral spring
+from which it is said an over-heated horse may drink all he will without
+injury. Epsom-salts, or Epsomite, frequently occurs, as does the Niter,
+in a crystalline form of the pure mineral, as an efflorescence on rocks
+in many of the caves and in other sheltered positions.
+
+[Illustration: The Surveyed Portions of Marble Cave Stone County
+Missouri
+
+Surveyed and Plotted by Fred Prince. 1894
+
+Scale of 100 feet]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Lead and Zinc. Prof. C.R. Keyes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MARBLE CAVE.
+
+
+Marble Cave, which is the finest yet explored in Missouri, is southeast
+of the center of Stone County, a short distance north of the picturesque
+White River. The nearest station is Marionville on the St. Louis and San
+Francisco railroad, and the drive of forty miles is delightful, but can
+be divided, into two of twenty each by a stop at Galena. The road, for
+the most part, is naturally macadamized and is through a most charming
+country whose roughness and beauty increase together as the journey
+advances. At first it winds along fertile valleys between wooded hills,
+crossing many times a shallow stream of water so clear as to afford no
+concealment for an occasional water-moccasin, whose bite is said to be
+not poisonous if inflicted under water, and which must be true because
+the horses showed not the least uneasiness.
+
+The second week in May found the vegetation in its summer beauty;
+strawberries were ripe, and the weather without a fault.
+
+Galena is pleasantly situated on the hills overlooking the James River,
+and is entirely invisible from the road by which it is approached until
+a slight curve in the line of ascent ends the first half of the journey
+with surprising suddenness. In the immediate vicinity there are several
+small caves which are worthy of attention and will be described later
+on.
+
+To properly picture the twenty miles of changing and charming views
+between Galena and Marble Cave would require the light and skillful
+touch of a special artist gifted with a tangible perception of
+atmospheric values. Gradually the road forsakes the pretty valleys with
+their fields and streams, to take the summit of the hills and then be
+known as the "Ridge Road," which affords a wide range of vision not
+previously enjoyed, presenting scenes not to be found reproduced
+elsewhere with any degree of exactness. Looking into the depth of the
+forest as it slopes away on either side, the impression is of a
+magnificent park, undefaced by what are called improvements. This effect
+is produced by the scarcity, or entire absence of underbrush, and a
+beautiful surface covering of grasses or flowering plants of all kinds
+and colors, varied here and there with masses of ferns of unusual size
+and delicate beauty. The most unexpected and lavish feature of the rich
+display is the many miles of fragrant honeysuckle that grows only
+eighteen inches high in the forest shade, but if transplanted to a sunny
+spot develops into the familiar vine. The most beautiful portion of
+all this is called The Wilderness, and seems designed for a National
+Park. Such a park reserve, even if very small, could not fail to be a
+lasting pleasure, since it would be more accessible to large centers of
+population than other reserves, and its most delightful seasons are
+spring and autumn when the Yellowstone is under snow.
+
+[Illustration: A Mill-Site Near Marble Cave.]
+
+The distant view obtained through open spaces is an undulating forest in
+all directions, being apparently both trackless and endless. The great
+variety of greens observed in the foliage blends in the distance into
+one dark shade, then changes to dark blue, which gradually fades out to
+a hazy uncertainty where it is lost at the sky-line.
+
+As long ago as 1853, the variety and abundance of the natural growth of
+fruits throughout the Ozarks was observed by Professor Swallow, who then
+advised the planting of vines.
+
+Beyond the Wilderness is the Marble Cave property and the entrance to
+the Cave is through a large sink-hole in the top of Roark Mountain. This
+hole is said to be about two hundred feet long, one hundred feet wide
+and thirty-five feet deep. It is shaped like a great oblong bowl with
+sloping sides, divided irregularly near the middle, and having the
+bottom broken out in a jagged way that is very handsome and gives an
+ample support to the growth of ferns, wild roses, and other vegetation
+with which it is abundantly decorated. About half of the descent into
+the basin is accomplished by scrambling down the roughly broken rocks,
+and the balance by a broad wooden stairway ending at a narrow platform
+that supports the locked gate.
+
+For kind and valuable assistance rendered to insure the success and
+pleasure of the visit to the wonderful cave, which they regard with
+affection and pride, very cordial thanks are due to Capt. T.S. Powell,
+former manager, his son, Mr. Will Powell, the first guide, and Mr. Fred
+Prince, who has made the only official survey and map. It may be stated
+here that the survey and map are far from complete, and many known
+passages have never yet been entered.
+
+Being the first visiting party of the season, certain disadvantages were
+encountered in a great accumulation of wet clay and rubbish, washed in
+by the rains since the previous summer; but the gate was opened with
+considerable effort, and slowly and cautiously we descended the
+slippery, clay-banked stairs to the immense mound of debris forty-five
+feet below the gate, to behold, at last, the grandeur of the Auditorium.
+
+The magnificence of that one chamber should give to Marble Cave a
+world-wide fame even if there were nothing more beyond. The blue-gray
+limestone walls have a greater charm than those of an open cañon, owing
+to the fact that they sweep away from any given point in long, true
+curves to form an elliptical chamber three hundred and fifty feet long
+by one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, with the vault above showing
+absolute perfection of arch, and measuring, by the survey, from its
+lowest to its highest point, one hundred and ninety-five feet. These
+measurements are said to be indisputably correct, and if so, the
+Auditorium of Marble Cave is the largest unsupported, perfect arch in
+the world; it being one hundred feet longer than the famous Mormon
+Tabernacle at Salt Lake City. In addition to the artistic superiority of
+architectural form, its acoustic properties having been tested, it is
+found to be truly an auditorium. The curving walls and pure atmosphere
+combine to aid the voice, and carry its softest tones with marvelous
+distinctness to every portion of the immense inclosed space. As a
+concert hall its capacity has been tested by musicians who are said to
+have been enthusiastic over the success of their experiments. Several
+years ago a piano was lowered into the cave for use on a special
+occasion, and still occupies a position on the dancing platform, where
+it will probably remain indefinitely under the scant protection of a
+small canvas tent.
+
+The chief ornament of the Auditorium is the White Throne, a stalagmitic
+mass that when viewed from the stairway appears to rest solidly against
+the most distant wall, and looks so small an object in that vast space
+as to render a realization of its actual measurement impossible. The
+height of the Throne is sixty-five feet and the girth two hundred. It is
+a mass of dripstone resting on a limestone base reserved from the
+ancient excavation to receive it, and on careful inspection the
+perpendicular lines, observed on the front, are found to be a set of
+rather large organ pipes. A fresh fracture shows the Throne to be a most
+beautiful white and gold onyx. The outer surface has now received a thin
+coating of yellow clay which was, of course, regretted, but later
+observations on onyx building reveals the pleasing fact that if the
+crystal-bearing waters continue to drip, the yellow clay will supply the
+coloring matter for a golden band of crystal.
+
+The Throne is hollow and has a natural opening in one side by which it
+may be entered, but the space within is too limited to invite a lengthy
+stay. That portion of the outside which is nearest the wall is formed
+with sufficient irregularity of outline to admit of an ascent to the
+top, and the view obtained is well worth the difficult scramble up and
+the apprehensive slide down. Being raised so high above all objects that
+divide attention or in some degree obstruct the view, permits a freedom
+of outlook that sensibly increases the appreciation of the vastness of
+the enclosed chamber and its enclosing walls. Efforts to establish the
+age of the deposit by observations on the yearly growth, would afford
+little satisfaction, for the obvious reason that conditions governing
+the growth are dependent, in a measure, on each season's vegetation.
+Deposit began, of course, after the erosion of the chamber ceased, and
+therefore represents only a fraction of the age of the cave itself.
+About thirty feet west of the White Throne and against the wall, stands
+the next onyx attraction in the form of a beautiful fluted column nearly
+twenty feet high, tapering up from a base three feet in diameter, and
+known as the Spring Room Sentinel, because the Spring of Youth is just
+behind it although not directly connected with the Auditorium; it being
+the first chamber on the left in Total Depravity Passage, a wet and
+dangerous way of which next to nothing is known, but the entrance to
+which is a fine arch a few feet west of the Sentinel. The Spring of
+Youth is reached by climbing through a window-like opening, and is very
+small, very wet, very cold, and very beautiful. It is not more than ten
+feet high nor six in its greatest length and breadth, but every inch of
+its irregular surface is composed of dripstone of a bright yellowish-red
+and colorless crystal; and down the glittering walls trickles clear and
+almost ice-cold water, to the onyx floor where it is caught and held in
+a marvelous fluted bowl of its own manufacture. This is said to be the
+gem of the whole cave and seems to have been placed where it is for the
+consolation of those who are unable to enjoy the peculiar grandeur of
+the Auditorium, and leave it as some actually are said to do, with a
+sense of disappointment, because it is not the gleaming white hall of
+marble which some writers for reputable journals have allowed their
+imaginations to create.
+
+In winter the Spring of Youth Room takes on a complete coating of ice,
+with icicles of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and projections. The
+effect is described as being wonderfully beautiful.
+
+Further down Total Depravity Passage we were not urged to go, because at
+that season of the year it is wet and difficult, without any sufficient
+promise of a brilliant compensation for the achievement of such a
+journey. But the Spring of Youth Room, or as it is generally called, the
+Spring Room, is more than ample justification for the existence of the
+passage, and would still be if that passage were several miles in length
+and the attraction located at the most distant limit.
+
+[Illustration: Wall in Spring Room. Page 32.]
+
+The various passages in Marble Cave are by no means alike or even
+similar; some having been opened by the action of water assisted only by
+acid carried in solution; while others are the unmistakable crevices of
+earthquake origin, afterwards enlarged, or perhaps only remodeled, as we
+might say, by the water's untiring energy in changing the position of
+rock masses without obliterating evidences of original design.
+
+A glance at the map shows the sudden breaking off of the various
+passages represented; the end, however, is not of the passages
+themselves, but only of the exploration or the survey of them, and there
+is a possibility that future developments will lead to the discovery of
+more caves than are yet known. However that may be, the glimpses already
+had into the beyond are said to be alluring.
+
+To the north of the Auditorium, which was until recently called the
+Grand Amphitheater, there opens out a kind of alcove extension known as
+the Mother Hubbard Room, and spreading out from this is the corridor, a
+room about one hundred and twenty-five feet long and seventy-five feet
+in width, with a low, narrow passage, or crawl, leading from the
+northeast into the Grotto, a dome-shaped room formerly called the
+Battery, on account of the great number of bats that used to congregate
+in it. It is about forty feet in diameter and fifty feet in height. On
+one side of this room is a narrow "squeeze" opening into a passage
+several feet lower than the floor level of the Grotto and leading to the
+Spanish Room, which when discovered bore indications of having been
+occupied by a human being who had tried to escape by tunneling, or by
+reaching a hole in the roof; which is said to be impossible for him to
+have done without outside assistance. As no bones have been found we may
+hope the assistance arrived in time. When the discovery of the room was
+made, a quantity of loose rock was piled before the entrance, so if he
+ever escaped it was not by that way.
+
+After crawling back to the Corridor, through the same small, but dry
+passage of seventy feet length, we saw a narrow ledge of fine crystals,
+a deposit of Epsom salts, and a few bats that in the dim light looked
+white but are a light tan color with brown wings. A good specimen
+hanging on a projecting ledge of the wall remained undisturbed by us and
+our lights, giving an opportunity for careful inspection so that we
+presently discovered it to be a mummy; which naturally suggests that
+this portion of the cave, being dry and opening out of the great
+temple-like Auditorium as an alcove, could be converted into an imposing
+crypt.
+
+Making our way across the room to its southwest extremity over a varied
+assortment of bowlders and down a drop of eight or ten feet, we crawled
+into another tight-fitting dry passage lined with beautiful glittering
+onyx like clear ice banded with narrow lines of red, of which broken
+fragments covered the narrow floor and made a dazzling, but
+distressingly painful rug to crawl over. This is the West Passage and
+leads to the Grand Crevice, of which only a small portion has been
+surveyed; midway of the passage are the Epsom Rooms, two in number, and
+well supplied with epsomite or native Epsom salts; this is sometimes
+called the Windy Passage, on account of a rushing current of air met
+suddenly at the first bend and, no doubt, due to the meeting here of
+fresh air coming in from the outside with that chemically changed in the
+Epsom Rooms.
+
+The cave contains a great many dangerous places, as we correctly
+surmised on the morning of our introduction; when Mr. Powell's blessing
+on the breakfast was lost in so fervent a prayer for the safe and
+successful accomplishment of our undertaking, it seemed inconsiderate
+not to present the reassuring appearance of inexhaustible endurance.
+
+In the Corridor can be seen one of the three old Spanish ladders found
+in the cave when it was rediscovered; but when and for what purpose the
+Spaniards used the cave there seems to be no means of finding out. It
+should be remembered that this part of the United States was occupied
+first by the Spaniards and then by the French, and is a portion of the
+Louisiana Purchase, a tract of 897,931 square miles, or 70,000 square
+miles more than the original thirteen states. The price asked and paid
+was $12,000,000 and the assumption of claims which citizens of this
+country had against the French Government for about $3,750,000 more. The
+French offered to make the sale on account of being thoroughly
+discouraged with constant troubles arising with the Indians, whom they
+had decided it would be impossible to persuade or compel to recognize
+any laws other than those established by each tribe for itself, or
+accepted by friendly treaty with the council and disregarded by
+individuals on both sides:--and the United States accepted the offer,
+not for any expected value in the land, but for the unrestricted
+navigation of the Mississippi River. Therefore Missouri was never under
+British rule and never changed hands by force of arms.
+
+But to return to the Spanish ladder, it is a tall pine tree notched on
+the sides for steps, and the stump of a branch left or a peg inserted at
+considerable intervals, for hand supports to assist in raising the
+weight of the body.
+
+Returning to the Auditorium, we entered a passage behind the Great White
+Throne and started on what might well be called the Water Route, for no
+dry spot is touched on the round trip; but if one goes prepared for
+such a journey it is well worth the effort and the mud. If the visitor
+is a man, the suit worn should be one he is ready to part with, or
+overalls; ladies receive the same advice even to the overalls, as some
+of the most beautiful portions of the cave, which we failed to see, can
+be visited only in that objectionable costume. To visit any cave
+comfortably a short dress is necessary and if any thing like a thorough
+knowledge of the ramifications is desired, the unavoidable climbing will
+soon prove the superior claims of a divided skirt; but if it is properly
+made, only the wearer need be conscious of the divide. Rubber boots and
+water-proof protection for the head and shoulders complete a costume
+that is not exactly an artistic creation, unless our ideas of art have
+been gathered in the school of Socrates, but it is suited to the
+requirements of the occasion and makes the explorations far more easy
+and profitable than they otherwise could be.
+
+The passage back of the White Throne is called the Serpentine Passage,
+and most of it is sufficiently high for traveling in an erect position;
+yet there are several places that require crawling. The first stopping
+point is the Gulf of Doom Room, or as it is also known, the Register
+Room, because here visitors usually write their names in the peculiar
+dark red clay, which is moist but firm and cuts with a polish. This
+room is twenty-five feet high and fifty feet wide, and looks off into
+the Gulf of Doom, which seems rightly named when a rock is thrown into
+it and you note the lapse of time before any sound returns; and when the
+awful Gulf is made visible by lights thrown in, one involuntarily seeks
+a firmer footing and clings to a projecting rock. The height of the Gulf
+is ninety-five feet and the distant sound of falling water is not
+reassuring. The walls are not smoothly worn away, but have the rough and
+weird appearance of having been torn by a torrent in a narrow mountain
+gorge, and are stained with the dark clay.
+
+Retracing our steps a short distance, if that style of locomotion could
+be called steps, we turned into Doré's Gallery, and surely that artist
+was in his usual working mood when he conceived this awful method of
+connecting the upper regions with the lower. Great bowlders have fallen
+down without helping to fill the black holes that received them, and
+into this real Inferno we proceeded to descend by narrow, ladder-like
+stairs provided with a light hand rail, and trembling slightly with the
+responsibility they assumed. If any one's courage trembled too, no
+notice was taken of it, and a record of exploring experiences does not
+necessarily include a confession of any doubts.
+
+On all the ladders in this Gallery was a fine white fungus growth in the
+form of a thick, heavy mold, that the lightest touch destroyed. In caves
+where some care is taken to protect this mold, it attains a growth of
+six or more feet and assumes the forms of sea-weed.
+
+Once down the first and longest flight of stairs, without any signs of a
+Doré dragon raising its huge body by heavy claws to a resting place
+among the rocks, awe divides more evenly with admiration; and being
+already well besmeared with mud, we climbed over the clay-covered
+bowlders and crawled through narrow holes with perfect satisfaction,
+enjoying each novel scene to the utmost.
+
+Off from the Doré Gallery is a small chamber containing the Fountain of
+Youth, that must be seen, but the way, like that of the transgressor, is
+hard. Arrived at the entrance we hesitated a moment, for although
+getting in looked possible, the way out again seemed not so simple; but
+finally trusting to Providence, through the direct agency of our careful
+guardians, of course, we sat down on the edge of the large slippery
+bowlder on which we stood, and reaching out caught a projection of the
+wall on one side and a bowlder crag on the other, swung off and dropped
+into the soft mud below. This chamber proved to be a little gem; small
+but high, and beautifully adorned with calcite crystal. Down a wall of
+red onyx on one side clear water flows into a basin in the irregular,
+rocky floor, just behind the bowlder we had used for a hand-rest at the
+entrance; the perfectly transparent water in the basin appears to be
+only a few inches deep, but measures three feet, and is several degrees
+colder than the air, which in this portion of the cave is warm. The
+other wall of this room is an almost perpendicular bank of the soft dark
+red clay, in which small selenite crystals are sprouting like plants in
+a garden.
+
+Suddenly we heard a heavy, rolling noise like distant thunder, and
+asking if it were possible to hear a thunder storm so far below the
+surface, were told it was the protest of angry bats against a further
+advance on the quarters to which they have retreated from the main body
+of the cave, and their orders were obeyed: so of what may be in that
+direction, we gained no positive knowledge besides bats, and the fact
+that, small as they are, their great numbers make them dangerous when
+angry. Returning to the gallery and continuing the journey down over
+slippery rock and slender ladders we came at length to the bottom of the
+Gulf of Doom, into which we had looked from the room now high above us;
+and we needed no stimulating help to the imagination to pronounce it a
+fit termination to an artist's troubled dream.
+
+[Illustration: The Waterfall. Page 41.]
+
+Then climbing over an assortment of bowlders of all sizes, going up a
+little, and swinging or sliding down, we came to a point in the narrow
+passage where the floor is a flat slab, like a large paving stone,
+tilted up at a steep angle against one wall and not reaching the other
+by about fifteen inches, with darkness of unknown depth below: about
+three feet above this opening the wall projects in a narrow, shelving
+ledge, and everything is covered with a thin coating of slippery wet
+clay. The only way to cross that uninviting bridge is to brace the feet
+against the slab, and leaning on the ledge, slowly work across. A little
+more rough work and the descent of the two short ladders, brought us, at
+last, under the beautiful Waterfall, where we stood as in a heavy shower
+of rain at the lowest point yet reached in the cave, which according to
+the survey of Mr. Prince is four hundred feet below the surface. The
+falling water has ornamented the walls, which in this portion of the
+cave expose over two hundred feet of Magnesian Limestone, with unique
+forms of dripstone; and the steeply sloping floor has received the
+over-charge of calcium carbonate until it has become a shining mass of
+onyx, retaining pools of cold, transparent water in the depressions. In
+the lowest corner there is only mud, and above it rises, to a height of
+at least fifteen feet a bank of miry, yellow clay, at the top of which a
+hole in the wall is the only known entrance to Blondy's Throne.
+
+[Illustration: Longitudinal and Cross-Sections of Passages in Marble
+Cave, Stone Co., Missouri.
+
+Plotted by Fred Prince, 1894.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MARBLE CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+On account of the long "crawl" through mud and cold water, it was at
+first suggested and then strongly advised, that we should not undertake
+to make the trip to Blondy's Throne: and yearning to see what is
+considered the cave's chief beauty was not easy to overcome, but after
+careful attention to the deep mire of the approach the advice seemed
+good, especially as Mr. Powell kindly promised to write a description of
+its trials and treasures; which he promptly did, thereby making it
+possible for us to continue the journey now without a disappointing
+interruption, so we will proceed to wade that mud bank with him in his
+own way. He says: "As Mecca is to the Mohammedan, so is Blondy's Throne
+Room to the pilgrim who invades the chaos and penetrates the mysteries
+of Marble Cave. When the subject is mentioned to the guide, he shrugs
+his shoulders and assumes an imploring look, and begins at once to
+mention the difficulties of getting there. But if you insist upon it he
+will go. The passage by which this room has to be reached, if passage it
+may be called, must be entered from the Waterfall Room, and a steep
+ascent must be made until an elevation of fifty feet is reached above
+the bottom of that room. This ascent has been called Hughse's Slide, as
+a man of that name once lost his footing at the top and slid on the wet
+and very slippery clay all the way to the bottom, leaving a very sleek
+trail. The ascent is difficult, as the soft clay is deep and wet and the
+sides are reeking and covered also with soft yielding clay. When the top
+of the slide is once reached, a low passage six feet wide and two feet
+high is discovered, and stooping low, or actually lying flat down, you
+enter. The top of the passage is of smooth rock and the bottom is of wet
+clay with an occasional variation of sharp gravel. The air is good, and
+as a lizard, you start forward. In places the passage widens to ten or
+twelve feet and again narrows to six feet.
+
+"In about one hundred feet you encounter a small pond of water filling
+the whole width of the passage and extending twenty to thirty feet, but
+the guide tells you it is only one foot deep, and calls attention to the
+fact that the water does not come within a foot of the roof of the
+passage and you can easily keep your chin above it, and with this
+assurance through you go.
+
+"Within the next one hundred feet you encounter and pass in the same
+manner three more ponds of varying sizes. The guide calls your
+attention to the fact that you are not alone, and looking about you by
+the dim light of your candle you see numbers of small eyeless
+salamanders, from four inches to one foot long. They are peaceable and
+harmless, appear to have no teeth and are easily caught, if you so
+desire.
+
+"Another hundred feet and the Rest Room, or Egyptian Temple is reached,
+and rising to your feet you may rest. The room is small, but contains
+beautifully fluted walls, resembling basaltic columns; and natural marks
+of erosion that resemble hieroglyphic inscriptions. From the other side
+of this room the passage goes on with the same characteristics, but as
+you enter to go forward a sound strikes the ear, and you pause to
+listen. It is a confusion of sounds, a babel of voices; and sounds like
+a distant conversation carried on by a large number of people. So
+striking is this resemblance that you instantly ask the guide if there
+are people in the room ahead, and hardly believe him when he says, 'No.'
+
+"You hear voices of men, voices of boys, babies, girls and ladies, and
+occasionally loud laughter; but forward is the word and on you go,
+encouraged by the assurance of the guide that you are now over half way
+through the passage and that the sounds came from Blondy's Throne Room.
+Suddenly the passage divides into two much alike, and taking the right
+hand one, you make your slow advance until at last, with clothes soaked
+and covered with clay mud, and your strength about gone, you begin to
+feel desperate and tell the guide that you will go no further, when you
+see him rise to his feet, and he says: 'Here we are.' You step over a
+steep bank of clay and emerge into a large room. It is almost square in
+shape; about eighty feet long and sixty feet wide, and about fifty feet
+high, with white, smooth walls and a pure white ceiling, and sloping
+gradually downward on the left ends in a small, clear lake of water.
+This lake has a beautiful beach of white pebbles, and though shallow on
+the edge seems quite deep at the center; in fact it is believed to have
+there a concealed opening that gives exit to its waters. On the opposite
+side from you, a stream of clear water pours into the lake, and in doing
+so it gives off the sounds that in the passage you mistook for human
+voices; and this noble stream has been named Mystic River. It enters the
+lake from under a beautiful natural arch, about thirty feet across at
+the bottom, and six feet above the water at the center. The bed of the
+stream is eroded from strata of sandstone that is extremely hard,
+containing corundum, and so perfect is its continuity that it conveys
+sound distinctly for a distance far beyond the reach of the human voice,
+when tapped upon with a hammer. The top of the arch is studded with
+lovely stalactites, clear as glass, that extend to the outer edge of the
+arch and form massive and beautiful groups there. Above the arch is a
+large opening. In truth the side of the room is out, and a great dark
+space appears like a curtain of black. A natural path leads up over one
+side of the arch, and following the lead of the guide you go up above
+and learn that a room on the higher level extends off in that direction
+and gets larger and higher. The walls are stalagmitic columns in cream
+color and decked in places with blood-red spots or blotches of Titanic
+size. The ceiling you cannot see. It is too high for the lights you have
+to reach. On the left you are suddenly confronted by a stalagmitic
+formation so large and so grand that all others are dwarfed into
+insignificance. You think of the dome of the Capitol at Washington. You
+are standing at the sloping base but cannot see the top. Just here the
+guide announces in an awestruck voice 'Blondy's Throne.' And who is
+Blondy? Only a fair-haired, blue-eyed, intrepid and daring
+fifteen-year-old boy, named Charles Smallwood, who assisted the writer
+in exploring the cave in the early days of 1883, and going on in
+advance, reported back that he had found another and a greater throne
+than the Great White Throne in the Auditorium.
+
+[Illustration: Blondy's Throne. Page 47.]
+
+"Well, here we are at Blondy's Throne at last, and surveying the base,
+we find that it is actually only half in the room we are in; the other
+half forms the side of another room. In a word, the Great Throne divides
+the room into two parts and makes two rooms of it instead of one. Yet
+the one half of the base has a measurement, by tape line, of one hundred
+and fifty feet. The guide now makes preparations to ascend the Throne. A
+chain has been fastened up towards the top, and by taking hold of this
+the climb can be made up the sloping sides of the Throne. We pass on and
+up over the clearest and most ice-like formation, resembling the great
+icebergs seen at sea. Reaching an elevation of sixty feet an opening
+into the dome is found, and stooping, you enter. It is a room about
+twenty feet across, with a white ice-like floor, a roof or ceiling ten
+feet above, and from it hang thousands of brilliant stalactites and from
+the floor stalagmites rise up to meet them. They are in all sizes, from
+an inch to two feet across. The sides are of the same material joined
+and cemented lightly together. Strike any of them and clear musical
+notes are given off; a musician has found two full octaves. Water is
+dripping in many places, and in the center of the floor is a tank full
+of clear water. It is four feet wide, twelve feet long and of unknown
+depth.
+
+"On the opposite side of the room from which you enter there is a hole
+or opening in the wall. It is large enough to go through but it goes
+into the great dark room on the other side of the Throne. An abyss
+confronts you, a sheer precipice which descends for many feet, perhaps
+hundreds. No man knows. This outer room of Blondy's Throne has been
+named the Chamber of the Fairies. Leaving it and continuing the ascent,
+the top of the Throne is soon reached and is about twenty feet across;
+and from several points still higher, rise stalagmitic spires.
+
+"The actual height of Blondy's Throne is not known, but is probably
+about one hundred feet. Again look upwards for the ceiling from the
+dizzy height on top of the Throne; you cannot see it. Burn magnesium
+ribbon and look up, and you see a white ceiling spangled with groups of
+stalactites. It is surely one hundred feet away. Then look off into the
+unknown room which is called the Great Beyond. No human being has ever
+explored or even entered it, but fire balls thrown in reveal the fact
+that it is of great extent; and part of the bottom water and part land.
+No way of getting into it has ever yet been found, so its mysteries,
+lessons and revelations are still safe from human intrusion. How far it
+goes, where it stops, and what it leads to, are facts for some future
+explorer to discover. Bats and white salamanders are found in Blondy's
+Throne Room, and some larger animals have been heard to jump into the
+water and escape on the approach of man, but their species is not known.
+
+"The arched passage of Mystic River has been followed up for a journey
+of an hour, but further than that its extent is unknown. It was hoped
+that a way would be thus found into the Great Beyond, but it did not
+prove successful. A well equipped party could find there a chance for
+some grand discoveries, and it would be one of the notable pleasures of
+the life of the writer to be one of such a party.
+
+"The exit from Blondy's Throne Room is always made with deep regret that
+the waning lights and meager supplies will not allow a longer stay. The
+long crawl, the mud and the water are all forgotten, and notwithstanding
+the terror of the trip one feels well repaid."
+
+We thank Mr. Powell for a charming journey without its discomfort and
+danger, and resume our travels at the Waterfall.
+
+From the foot of the Waterfall we returned again to the Auditorium, in
+time to enjoy a sight such as we supposed could exist only in a
+brilliant imagination; and the return at that hour was not a lucky
+accident of fate, but the result of careful attention to a prearranged
+design that we should not fail to witness a marvelous display never
+surpassed by lavish Nature. The day outside was one of cloudless
+summer sunshine.
+
+[Illustration: Blondy's Throne Room. Page 50.]
+
+[Illustration: Foot of Waterfall. Page 50.]
+
+Our eyes having grown accustomed to the dim light of candles in passages
+where absolute darkness, unrelieved by the stars of midnight, always
+reigns, the great Auditorium appeared before us softly flooded with
+daylight diffused from a broad white beam slanting down in long straight
+lines from the entrance as from a rift in heavy clouds; only this rift
+displayed around its edges a brilliant border of vegetation that the
+rough rocks cherish with tender care.
+
+As we stood lost in almost speechless admiration, and without the
+slightest warning of treasure yet in store, the white beam was stabbed
+by a narrow, gleaming shaft of yellow sunlight. The glorious, radiant
+beauty of the picture presented is utterly indescribable, but it was of
+short duration, and in a few seconds the golden blade was withdrawn as
+suddenly as it had appeared.
+
+If the genius of Elkins had been granted the privilege we enjoyed, the
+artist-world of Europe that graciously yielded the highest honor to his
+"Sunbeam on Mount Shasta," would have knelt in rapturous humility.
+Speaking of his great work, as we stood before it only a few months
+before his death, Mr. Elkins said quietly: "It is no great achievement;
+I simply painted it exactly as it looked. Anyone could do the same."
+But no one ever has.
+
+The white beam was more enduring and by its aid we were able to view the
+expanse of the great Auditorium far better than could have been done in
+the momentary glare of any brilliant artificial light. Every part of the
+cloud-gray walls shows a stratification as regularly horizontal as if
+the laying of each course had been done with the assistance of line and
+level; while in every direction are now seen hundreds of stalactites
+that had not been noticed before, and although they look small, the
+average length, taken with the surveying instruments, is fourteen feet.
+The Hill beneath the entrance is an accumulation of debris, drifted in
+from the outside, and rising to a height of more than one hundred and
+twenty-five feet; while the great circumference of its supporting base,
+revealed by the banishment of shadows, suggests the possibility of
+tragic history of which the only evidence lies buried there and may or
+may not ever be discovered; but let us step lightly, since our feet may
+press the covering that shields a final sleep; and also let a grieving
+sister in her old age take comfort in the knowledge that here, as in few
+other spots, nature provides a certain and gentle burial for the
+unfortunate, and for a few seconds each day lights the dim chamber with
+a heavenly glory--perhaps in appeal to the sons of one country to
+harbor no such feelings as deprived Abel of life and for all time and
+eternity tarnished the honor of Cain.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Cave--Interior View. Page 52.]
+
+The chilliness presently recalled us from further indulgence in that
+great scene, to ordinary affairs; and consulting the reliable
+thermometer, it was found to register 42°, while in some of the lower
+passages the temperature is 58°; but the variation is not in accordance
+with the accepted theory of one degree to the one hundred feet descent.
+
+A return to the beautiful Spring of Youth Room was now a necessity, but
+we were careful to allow no drop of water falling from clay-stained
+hands to reach the purity of that lovely bowl, and then being happy and
+hungry, we retired to the piano's protecting tent for refreshment.
+
+The atmosphere in Marble Cave has the peculiar bracing and invigorating
+quality common to the majority of caves, that seems almost to defy
+fatigue and encourage exertion that under ordinary conditions would be
+impossible.
+
+After the exertion necessary in the warmer portions of the cave, the
+temperature of 42° proved rather low for comfort and finally was
+admitted to be a sufficient reason for either leaving the cave or
+sending out for the wraps. Slowly and reluctantly the party walked up
+the long winding path to the summit of the Hill where the stairway
+finds support, stopping many times to admire again the perfect curves
+and fine color-tones of that wonderful high arch--within a mountain yet
+softly radiant with the light of day.
+
+Still lingering regretfully among the fern-decked rocks before quite
+finishing the ascent to the actual outside world, the mercury lost
+little time in registering eighty degrees.
+
+Since no official, or even approximately correct map of Marble Cave has
+yet been published, and the desirability of maps is particularly urged
+by Monsieur E.A. Martel, a special effort was made to secure one, which
+was accompanied by the following remarks from Mr. Prince in regard to
+its incompleteness:
+
+"There are several passages and rooms which do not appear on the map,
+though some of them are well known, but have not been surveyed and
+platted.
+
+"Much further exploration is possible in this great cavern. Lost River
+Cañon ends abruptly in a bank of red clay, the volume of water being
+undiminished. The water from the Great Fall flows by a small serpentine
+into a passage which has never been followed up; its entrance being
+several hundred feet higher than the nearest water level."
+
+Unfortunately the quantity of water in the cave at the time of the
+visit just described was so unusually great as to render the Lost River
+Cañon trip impossible.
+
+During the previous season the cave and its surroundings were visited by
+a prominent naturalist who appears to have been delightfully liberal in
+the diffusion of scientific knowledge and the explanations of methods of
+pursuing investigations. His practical instruction in snake catching is
+particularly interesting as it was never before introduced into this
+state, where the copperhead and rattler are known to have survived among
+the fittest. Seeing a snake hole and desiring information as to the
+family record of the proprietor, he inserted a finger, and while waiting
+for results explained that there is no better way to secure a specimen,
+as the enraged reptile will fasten its fangs into the intruding member
+and then can be easily withdrawn. It is a pleasure to state that even
+snakes recognize the claims of friendship, and no injury was
+experienced.[2]
+
+In the vicinity of Marble Cave there are several choice varieties of
+onyx and marble, among them a rare and beautiful onyx in black and
+yellow. The coloring, tinting and banding of onyx seem generally to be
+regarded as one of the unexplainable mysteries of nature, but is in
+reality an extremely simple process that can be easily studied in any
+active cave.
+
+When the percolating acidulated water passes slowly through a pure
+limestone it is filtered of impurities and deposits a crystal, either
+pure white or transparent; if it comes in contact with metallic bodies
+of any kind, it carries away more or less in solution to act as coloring
+matter; the beautiful pale green onyx in several Missouri counties
+taking its tint from the copper; in South Dakota, manganese in various
+combinations produces black and many shades of brown; in both states an
+excessive flow of water often carries a quantity of red or yellow clay
+which temporarily destroys the beauty of exposed surfaces, but in after
+years becomes a fine band of brilliant color.
+
+Small wind caves are numerous in the Ozarks and being cold are
+frequently utilized for the preservation of domestic supplies. The
+entrance to one in the neighborhood of Marble Cave is high up on the
+hill-side south of Mr. Powell's house and being visible from the porch
+was too tempting to be ignored, and the walk up to it for a better view
+was rewarded with a most charming bit of scenery as well. All the quiet
+valley, divided by a rushing little stream, lay before us in the shadow
+of early evening, while to the north and east the hills were brilliant
+in summer sunshine, with one small open glade gleaming vividly among
+the darker shades of forest green.
+
+The cave was a very small room at the bottom of a steep, rocky, sloping
+passage, and contained no standing water, although there had been a
+heavy rainfall the night before and the opening is so situated as to
+especially favor the inflow, which naturally indicates a greater cave
+beneath a hidden passage. Here, as in most of the caves of the region,
+is found a small lizard: it is totally blind but its ancestors evidently
+were not, as is shown by conspicuous protuberances where the eyes should
+be, but over which the skin is drawn without a wrinkle or seam to
+indicate a former opening. These harmless creatures are not scaly, but
+are clothed in a soft, shining, well-fitted skin, and the largest seen
+were little more than six inches long.
+
+Those who love perfect Nature in a most smiling mood should hasten to
+visit Marble Cave while yet no railroad quite touches the county.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] The naturalist referred to is the late Prof. E.D. Cope.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+FAIRY CAVE AND POWELL CAVE.
+
+
+Fairy Cave enjoys the reputation of being the most beautiful yet
+discovered in that cavernous region, and consequently a visit to it was
+contemplated with considerable eagerness, although the mode of entrance
+had been described with sufficient accuracy to prevent any misconception
+of the difficulties to be overcome or the personal risk involved. To go
+from our temporary abiding place it was necessary to pass Marble Cave,
+and when we had gone that far Mr. Powell left us to follow the road,
+while he, on his mule, took a short cut across the hills and valleys, to
+try to find men not too much occupied with their own affairs on a fine
+Monday morning, in corn plowing time, to join our expedition. As neither
+our small companion, Merle, nor ourselves, had any knowledge of the
+locality of our destination, we were carefully instructed to follow the
+main road to the Wilderness Ridge, and keeping to that, pass the Indian
+Creek road and all others that are plain, but turn down the second dim
+road and follow it until stopped by a new fence where we would be met
+and conducted. So long as points to be passed held out, these directions
+gave us no trouble whatever, even the first dim road offering no
+obstacle to the pleasure of our progress; but the second dim road proved
+so elusive we traveled many miles in search of it, finally bringing up
+against a place Merle was familiar with and knew to be a long way off
+the track of our intentions. As there was nothing to be done but return
+we naturally accepted the situation and did that; presently finding Mr.
+Powell and the Messrs. Irwin, on whose land the cave is, patiently
+waiting for us in what was really not a road at all, but rather, in this
+region of fossils, the badly preserved impression of one long since
+extinct.
+
+The new fence was opened at two places that we might drive through and
+be saved the exertion of walking a considerable distance, then the
+horses were left in the shade while we scrambled down the steep
+hill-side covered with sharp-edged, broken rock, about mid-way down
+which is the mouth of the cave, yawning like a narrow, open well. Above
+this a stout windlass has been arranged on two forked logs.
+
+A few feet below the surface the cave spreads out jug-shaped, so that in
+descending nothing is touched until the floor is reached, one hundred
+feet beneath the surface; consequently the only danger to be apprehended
+is a fall.
+
+Each of the three men present kindly offered to go down and make the
+exploration with me, but that would have left only two at the windlass,
+and for a man's weight, safety requires four. Should an accident occur,
+assistance would be necessary, and some time lost in finding it; so, to
+the undisguised satisfaction of one and equally evident relief of the
+others, it was reluctantly decided that the trip must be given up, and
+therefore we are indebted to the kindness of Captain Powell[3] for the
+following description of Fairy Cave:
+
+     "The Cave referred to is situated in Section 24, Township 23, Range
+     23, in Stone County, Missouri, and is on the homestead of one of
+     three brothers named Irwin.
+
+     "It was accidentally discovered in the year 1895 and up to the time
+     of this writing (June 1896) only six persons have ever entered it.
+     It is in a point or spur of the Ozark Mountains which runs to the
+     east from the great Wilderness Ridge, and is three miles distant
+     from the Marble Cave. Having been one of the first to enter the
+     Cave, being called by the owner as a sort of cave expert, I will
+     attempt to describe both the adventure and the cave just as they
+     were. The measurements are simply estimated, though by long
+     practice I have become expert in that line also, but the longest
+     measurement here was correctly taken by the rope used.
+
+     "Having been invited by the Irwin brothers to come and examine and
+     explore a new cave they had found but had only entered and not
+     explored, accompanied by my eldest son, W.T. Powell, I reached the
+     place one warm Saturday morning. We found about twelve or fourteen
+     men waiting for our coming; some discussing the matter of whether
+     we would enter when we did come, and others who had volunteered to
+     work the windlass, which had been erected over the opening, by
+     means of which, with a one hundred foot rope, entrance was to be
+     made. The opening was like a small well, and situated under the
+     edge of an overhanging cliff of marble, and on the southeast slope
+     of the mountain, about one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom
+     of a narrow valley, and about the same distance below the top of
+     the mountain, which here is three hundred feet high. In order to
+     rig a windlass the edge of the cliff had to be broken away. The
+     well-like opening descended for about ten feet through strata of
+     flat-laying rocks that formed a roof; then all appeared to be
+     vacancy and a stone cast in gave back a distant sound.
+
+     "Having first tested the air and proved it good by dropping in
+     blazing excelsior saturated with turpentine, a stout oak stick was
+     attached to the end of the rope, my son sprang astride and was
+     lowered to the bottom, just one hundred feet. He reported back 'All
+     right.' On the return of the rope I took my position on the stick
+     and was soon dangling in mid air. The sensation was strange and
+     exhilarating. Looking up I could only see the small opening I came
+     through, and a straggling stream of light poured down that, but on
+     all sides profound darkness reigned supreme. A spark-like light my
+     son lit, reminded me of the lost Pleiad. About twenty-five or
+     thirty feet from the top I caught sight of a scene that made me
+     call on the men at the windlass to stop.
+
+     "This caused them to think something was going wrong and one called
+     out to know what was the matter: I heard him say 'He is weakening.'
+     I assured them everything was right only I wanted to take a view;
+     so they stopped. Off at a distance of perhaps twenty-five feet was
+     an opening about ten feet or more wide and twelve feet high. The
+     light from the opening struck it fairly, owing to the position of
+     the sun at the time. Through this opening I saw into another room,
+     large and magnificent. It brought to mind the White City. It was
+     snowy white, and thickly studded with stalactites and stalagmites
+     of immense size and in great numbers; some looking like spires of
+     numerous churches, and many connected as with a lattice-work about
+     the bottom. For a short time I gazed on that lovely scene, and
+     examined the chances to reach it, but a great gulf intervened that
+     we had no means of spanning, and I called to the men to lower me
+     down. Approaching the bottom one of the walls trended in towards me
+     and I stepped upon solid ground close to the wall, which half way
+     up seemed fifty feet away. The opening above now looked like a
+     small pale moon, and the next man who came dangling down to join us
+     looked no bigger than a toy soldier. Gradually our eyes became
+     accustomed to the twilight, and by the time our party was increased
+     to six men, I could see quite distinctly.
+
+     "The room runs directly into the mountain and is about ninety feet
+     high, and where we landed it proved to be twenty feet wide. It
+     extended in both directions, but much the farthest towards the
+     right hand. The outer room is encrusted in fine white water
+     formations. It forms a Gothic ceiling from which hang pendant at
+     all places brilliant and sparkling stalactites; some being of
+     immense size and length, from ten to twenty-five feet. Others are
+     not so large but are brilliant. We created a flood of artificial
+     light with dozens of candles and lamps; and then and not until
+     then, could we see the slope and contour of the roof. A few bats
+     were flitting about, disturbed for the first time. To the left, a
+     vast white pillar extended from floor to roof. It was pure white
+     and about five feet in diameter all the way up. It was fluted,
+     fretted, draped and spangled. I never in my life saw anything more
+     chaste and lovely. I thought of the countless ages it must have
+     taken to form that monument: of the streams of clear water that had
+     fallen and left their calcite deposits, while it grew year after
+     year, age after age, century after century, in this profound
+     darkness, disturbed by no noises save the rhythmic sound of the
+     falling drops and the dull flitting of the bats, who alone were the
+     living witnesses of its construction. To the rear of this great
+     pillar the room is divided into three galleries, one above another.
+     With great difficulty and much danger we climbed into each of
+     these. The floors were all like the pillar of pure white onyx, and
+     extended back a distance of thirty or more feet. The floor of one
+     formed the roof of another. They were brilliant with hanging
+     pendants and the side walls were all veneered with the same white
+     and crystalline formation. To entirely describe them is impossible.
+     A day in each would still leave the observer short of words in
+     which to tell of the wonders.
+
+     "Turning towards the right hand from the entrance we advance two
+     hundred feet up an incline of dry clay, the room widening gradually
+     until its width is forty feet, when we reach the top of an
+     elevation thirty feet above the starting point, where a sudden
+     steep descent brings us to a halt. A stone cast down strikes water
+     and the sound of a splash comes back to us. With caution we seek
+     our way down the hill and stand on the edge of a small lake or
+     pond. Suddenly my son, who is in the lead, rushes back saying:
+     'Look out! I put my hand on a snake.' Some of us, being armed with
+     hickory canes that had been thrown down, concentrated our lights
+     and advanced. Sure enough, there is a snake a yard long coiled up
+     on a section of rotten wood. It proves to be a copperhead, the most
+     quarrelsome and vicious snake in this country; but his nature is
+     changed so that he makes no effort to fight and is killed with a
+     blow, and is sent to be hoisted up that we may examine him in
+     daylight. No others were found, and probably he had fallen in at
+     the opening, and spent a long, weary time in expiation of his
+     upper-earth crimes.
+
+     "Examining the lake we find it to be about forty feet wide and the
+     same long, and it fills the room from wall to wall. We cannot pass
+     it so must either stop or wade through. We decide to wade, and on
+     measuring the water find it only two or three feet deep, with a
+     soft clay bottom, and in many places islands of stalagmite rise
+     above the surface.
+
+     "On the sides of the lake there are formations in the shape of
+     sofas and lounges, and they appear to be cushioned, but the
+     cushions are found to be hard, solid rock. As the lights advance
+     across the lake new wonders are revealed. Curtains and draperies
+     hanging from the top almost touch the water and entirely cut off
+     the view beyond. Passing under a curtain at one of the highest
+     places, we emerge from the lake, and once more on dry land, advance
+     up a slope. Here the water formations have taken human shapes of
+     all sizes and several colors now appear and help to present a chaos
+     of beauty.
+
+     "Two hundred feet more and the chamber ends in a vast waterfall,
+     but the water has turned to stone. Above the waterfall is an
+     opening, but it is twenty-five feet up a smooth wall and we have no
+     ladder. The journey was at an end. Tired, wet and muddy, we started
+     on our return trip; recrossed the dark lake, and retraced our steps
+     to the place under the opening without realizing that we had spent
+     six hours under ground. While the other members of the party, and
+     the specimens, were being raised to the surface, the writer sought
+     to learn the flora and fauna of this new region. The flora is
+     blank. Even the white mold so common in many caves is absent; and
+     no fungus grows on the poles, bark and rotten wood that have at
+     some past time been cast in.
+
+     "In animal life the range is greater. I have mentioned the
+     ever-present bats, and dozens of them were seen. There were also
+     small, white eyeless salamanders, small, yellow, speckled
+     salamanders, with signs of eyes but no sight; also a jet black
+     salamander, which like the rest, was blind. The bats were of two
+     species--the common brown bat and the larger light grey or yellow
+     species. But this was not the time of the year to see many bats in
+     caves. In the summer season most of them go out and remain until
+     cool weather, and then return to the caves with their young; so I
+     was rather surprised to see as many as we did.
+
+     "Down comes the rope for the last time, and taking my place, I soon
+     feel myself spinning around and slowly rising. As I again pass the
+     magic city I saw going down, a stronger wish than ever takes
+     possession of me to go there, and I look for any chance to solve
+     the problem of how such a journey can be made. 'Thou art so near
+     and yet so far.'
+
+     "Suddenly I find myself emerging from the ground into a very hot
+     world, with the evening sun blazing so that the air feels like the
+     scorching heat of an oven; and my late companions are scattered
+     about under the trees, no doubt wishing themselves back in the cool
+     regions below the hot cliffs.
+
+     "My final conclusions in regard to Fairy Cave were that it was
+     about six hundred feet long by from fifteen to forty feet wide and
+     from eighty to ninety feet high: that in the upper story there are
+     rooms that I could not reach, that will amply pay the scientist
+     and explorer to investigate in the future: that probably we reached
+     all the accessible parts in the level we traveled: that the
+     temperature was fifty-six or very near that degree: that small as
+     it is, it contains the finest formations and grandest scenery I
+     have ever seen in a cave: and I have examined over one hundred of
+     various sizes. I believe that for interior beauty its equal is not
+     to be found in America, and I sincerely believe that the verdict of
+     future exploration will establish the truth of the assertion, but
+     as equally good judges differ on such matters, time will be
+     required for a true and just decision. There are yet many promising
+     caves to be explored in this region, and if my strength holds out a
+     few years I hope to see them all.
+
+                                                   "T. S. Powell."
+
+
+POWELL CAVE.
+
+As a measure of consolation for the disappointment of not seeing the
+beauty of Fairy Cave, Mr. Irwin suggested that only a quarter of a mile
+further on was another, recently discovered and worthy of a visit,
+although small.
+
+In that region of steep hills and sharp-edged rocks, a great amount of
+travel can be added to the experience of a tender-foot in a short
+distance. The quarter of a mile seemed to stretch out in some mysterious
+way as we worked on it, but the variety and abundance of attractions are
+more than ample compensation.
+
+The view was fine, including as it did the deep ravine and grassy,
+wooded slopes rising three hundred feet above, with here and there a
+handsome ledge of marble exposed like the nearly buried ruin of a
+forgotten temple of some past age. Scattered about in great profusion
+among the broken rock on the surface of these hill-sides we observed a
+water deposit of iron ore. It is a brown hematite and in some cases
+shows the structure of the bits of wood it has replaced. Since this
+region has from the earliest time produced a generous growth of
+vegetation, the decay of which has yielded a never-failing supply of
+acids to assist in carving the caves and then in their decoration, the
+presence of the ore is not difficult to account for. The whole Ozark
+uplift being rich in iron, the acidulated drainage waters coming into
+contact dissolved and took it in solution, to re-deposit where and when
+conditions should be favorable. These conditions were found in the basin
+among the hills and along its outlet.
+
+In the Popular Science Monthly of January 1897, a short article by J.T.
+Donald, entitled "A Curious Canadian Iron Mine," describes the same
+thing going on at the present time in Lac a la Tortue, a small body of
+water in the center of a tract of swamp land, which produces the
+vegetation necessary to supply the acid required for a base of
+operation.
+
+Of the manner of deposition he says: "The solution of iron in vegetable
+acid (in which the iron is in what the chemist calls the form of a
+protosalt) is oxidized by the action of the air on the surface of the
+lake into a persalt, which is insoluble, and appears on the surface in
+patches that display the peculiar iridescence characteristic of
+petroleum floating on water. Indeed, not infrequently these films of
+peroxide of iron are incorrectly attributed to petroleum. These films
+become heavy by addition of new particles; they sink through the water,
+and in this manner, in time, a large amount of iron ore is deposited on
+the lake bottom. It must not be supposed that the ore is deposited as a
+fine mud or sediment. On the contrary, in this lake ore, as it is
+called, we have an excellent illustration of what is called
+concretionary action--that is, the tendency of matter when in a fine
+state of division to aggregate its particles into masses about some
+central nucleus, which may be a fragment of sunken wood, a grain of
+sand, or indeed a pre-formed small mass of itself."
+
+It is claimed for this water ore, which is gathered like oysters, that
+mixed with bog ore and magnetic iron, and smelted with charcoal, the
+result as obtained is strong, durable and high priced.
+
+The curiously elastic quarter of a mile finally yielded to persistent
+toil, and the cave was reached. The entrance is sufficiently broad to
+give a good first impression, and is under a heavy ledge of limestone
+which breaks the slope of the hill and is artistically decorated with a
+choice collection of foliage, among which is a coral honeysuckle; the
+fragrant variety grows everywhere. Under the ledge is a narrow
+vestibule, out of the north end of which is a passage about twenty-four
+inches in width, between perpendicular walls, and as steeply inclined as
+the average dwelling-house stairway but without any assisting
+depressions to serve as steps. Mr. Irwin cut a grape vine, and making
+one end secure at the entrance, provided a hand rail, by the aid of
+which I was able to easily descend the stepless way and afterwards
+remount.
+
+The first chamber entered is the principal portion of the cave, and by
+actual measurement is forty-nine feet in length by forty-eight in
+greatest width and the height estimated at fifty feet. On account of
+irregularities it appears smaller but higher. On opposite sides of the
+chamber, at elevation about midway between the floor and ceiling are two
+open galleries. The floor is extremely irregular with its accumulation
+of fallen masses of rock, and the action of water has given to portions
+of the walls the appearance of pillars supporting the arches of the
+roof. The whole aspect is that of a small Gothic chapel. Off to the
+northwest is another room measuring thirty feet in each direction, and
+out of this are several openings, too small to squeeze through, which
+indicate the possible existence of other chambers beyond, but they may
+be only drain pipes.
+
+The cave contains no drip formations, notwithstanding which it is one of
+the most charming, and when invited to name it I called it Powell Cave,
+in honor of the most ardent admirer of caves in that county, and to whom
+I am much indebted for valued assistance.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Editor of the county news-paper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+OTHER STONE COUNTY CAVES.
+
+
+GENTRY CAVE.
+
+The cave nearest to Galena, and the first visited by us, is Gentry Cave,
+situated a mile and a half from town. We started in the mail coach, but
+that vehicle met with a misfortune by no means unusual in that region,
+the total wreck of a wheel. Having only that morning arrived from the
+rich agricultural portion of the State where no surface rock can be
+found, we were pleased enough with the prospect of a walk in such
+charming spring weather, and set out with a cheerful certainty that the
+rough place in the road would soon be passed. But the school of
+experience is always open for the reception of new-comers and we were
+admitted to full duty without question.
+
+The topography was nearly as broken, in its way, as the natural "piking"
+spread over it, and very beautiful with the dense forests lighted by the
+slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun. The way leads up to the
+"ridge road" which is at length abandoned for no road at all, and
+descending through the forest, more than half the distance down to the
+James River flowing at the base of the hill, we come suddenly in view of
+the cave entrance, which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces
+of natural architecture ever seen.
+
+Rounding a corner by a narrow path, we step onto a covered portico
+ninety-seven feet long, with an average width of ten feet. The floor is
+smooth and level, as also is the ceiling, which is nine feet above,
+supported by handsomely carved pillars and rising in a gray cliff
+projecting from the slope of the hill above, out to the brink of the
+more abrupt descent to the water's edge ninety feet below. Between the
+pillars are three large door-ways into the cave. The comparison
+suggested is an Egyptian temple, and the idea is continued within, where
+there are no chambers as in other caves; but instead, the entire
+interior is a labyrinth of passages winding about in every direction
+among an uncounted number of low massive pillars, some supporting a low
+ceiling and others connected by high arches, the highest point being
+estimated at sixty feet, but appearing to be more, because the enclosed
+space rising to a dome is so narrow that the point of view is
+necessarily directly underneath.
+
+All exposed surfaces of pillars and walls inside the cave are of clay or
+a soft porous rock having the same appearance, and are covered with
+curious little raised markings like the indescribable designs of mixed
+nothing generally known as "Persian patterns." This is, of course,
+easily explained; the clay being the residuum from disintegrated
+limestone, the markings described are the harder portions of the rock
+remaining after particles of clay had been carried out by flowing water
+while the disintegrating process was yet incomplete.
+
+The Drinking Fountain is considered the great attraction of the cave,
+and appears to have been fashioned to suggest a model for the handsome
+soda fountains belonging to a later period. The water bowl is a large
+depression worn in the top of a rock which seems to have been built into
+the wall. In front it is five feet high and nine feet across, with
+artistic corners approximately alike, and at the back ornamental carving
+extends upward towards the ceiling with an opening through the wall at
+the center. This opening is divided by a short column down which water
+trickles to supply the bowl. The ceiling here is about thirty-five feet
+high and most of the exposed surface is a blue-gray limestone. Only one
+portion of Gentry Cave has received a deposit of dripstone and even that
+is of limited extent, and located at the end of a narrow slippery
+passage between high, slippery walls.
+
+The fine entrance is of grey limestone in undisturbed horizontal strata,
+and this is so plainly marked in the roof-supporting pillars as to give
+them the appearance of having been prepared by skillful hands, in
+several blocks, and afterwards arranged in place without the aid of
+mortar. Unfortunately, all efforts to photograph this wonderful portico
+have failed to give satisfaction--its position above the river being
+such as to afford no point for the proper placing of the camera; but a
+second visit made for the purpose of trying was far from being a loss,
+and part of the reward consisted of finding among the sheltered rocks,
+scarcely three feet above the floor, two humming birds' nests with their
+treasure of small eggs, and our little companion who discovered them was
+pleased to leave them untouched.
+
+
+SUGAR TREE HOLLOW CAVE.
+
+The name of this cave is due to the fact that the approach is through a
+"hollow" well wooded with sugar maple trees. It is two miles from Galena
+and the drive a beautiful one, as much of the way is through the forest
+without a road, but with a charming little rushing, crooked stream of
+clear, cold water: and in places the green slopes give way to mural
+bluffs of grey limestone in undisturbed strata.
+
+The entrance to the cave is through a hole about two feet high by three
+in width, into which we went feet first and wiggled slowly down an
+incline covered with broken rock, for a distance of fifteen feet, where
+a standing depth is reached. A flat, straight, level ceiling extends
+over the whole cave without any perceptible variation, and this is
+bordered around its entire length and breadth with a heavy cornice of
+dripstone, made very ornamental by the forms it assumes, and the
+multitude of depending stalactites that fall as a fringe around the
+walls. The line of contact between the cornice and ceiling is as clear
+and strong as if both had been finished separately before the cornice
+was put in place by skillful hands.
+
+Dripstone covers the walls, which vary in height from one foot to twenty
+feet, according to the irregularities of the floor, just as the width of
+this one-room cave varies with the curves of the walls, which are
+sweeping and graceful, the average being twenty-nine feet, but is much
+greater at the entrance where the entire slope extends out beyond the
+body of the cave. The length, from north to south, measures two hundred
+and thirty-three feet exclusive of an inaccessible extension.
+
+The south end of the cave rises by a steep slope to within a foot of the
+ceiling with which it is connected by short but heavy columns of
+dripstone, and another line of pillars of graduated height meets this
+at right angles near the middle and ends in an immense stalagmite that
+stands at the foot of the slope like a grand newel post.
+
+There is no standing water in the cave, but everything is wet with drip,
+and consequently the formation of onyx is actively progressing and the
+south slope already mentioned shows a curious succession of changes in
+cave affairs. By the slow action of acidulated waters, the grey
+limestone deteriorated into a yellowish clay-bank, and now its particles
+are being re-united into solid rock by the deposit of calcium carbonate
+from the drip.
+
+A careful test of the temperature of the atmosphere showed it to be
+fifty-eight degrees.
+
+
+PINE RUN CAVE.
+
+This also is a small cave easily visited from Galena, being less than
+two miles distant on the Marionville road. The entrance faces the road
+and is on the same level, consequently it is one of the easiest to
+visit. Just within is seen an opening in the ceiling, which we are told
+is one of the two ways to an upper chamber whose chief attraction is a
+dripstone piano, and the means of ascending is at hand in the form of a
+Spanish ladder; but an attempt of that sort might even cause the new
+woman to hesitate, and who hesitates is lost. The ascent was not made.
+We advanced on a level with the road for a distance of perhaps twenty
+feet, when the direction of the cave changed with a right angular turn
+and we were in a straight gallery about two hundred and fifty feet long
+and fifteen feet in width, the height gradually decreasing to about
+three feet towards the upper end, where it widened out into a low but
+broad chamber. The floor of this chamber is most beautiful. It is
+composed of a series of connected calcite bowls whose beautifully fluted
+rims are of regular and uniform height, and all are equally filled with
+clear, still water. A great number of these basins are said to have been
+destroyed by an ax in the hands of a poor witless creature for the
+gratification of a burst of temper, and a magnificent stalagmitic
+column, too heavy for one man to lift, lay detached and broken, in proof
+that his body did not share the feebleness of his mind.
+
+Beyond these basins is a low passage through which is found the second
+entrance to the upper chamber, but the basins must be crossed in order
+to reach it, and this is not an easy undertaking even when their water
+supply is low, but in the early summer they are almost full.
+
+There are said to be more than one hundred caves in Stone County, one of
+which is supposed to be fully as large as Marble Cave, if not larger,
+and is located in the southern part of the county but has not been
+explored.
+
+Mill Cave is in the northeast of the county, and at the entrance is a
+saw mill which receives its working power from the cave stream. Inside
+the cave there is a lake.
+
+Hermit's Cave is a few miles from Galena, and is so named on account of
+having been used as a dwelling by its former owner, who kept a coffin in
+which he intended to place himself before the final summons, but was
+overtaken by death in the forest and it was never used. He wrote sermons
+on the rocks in his cave and one of these was afterwards removed.
+
+Wolf's Den is also near Galena, and has been utilized as a sheep fold.
+
+Wild Man's Cave is near Galena, and on account of the stories with which
+people have been frightened, can only be visited by permission and with
+a guard stationed at the entrance.
+
+Reynard's Cave is four miles west of Galena on the farm of Dr. Fox, but
+is so nearly filled up with dripstone that only crawling room remains.
+The doctor's place is a fine locality for the collection of fossils.
+
+At a distance of twelve miles from Galena there is said to be a fine
+natural bridge, well worth a visit and sufficiently near Mill Cave for
+both to be seen on the same trip.
+
+In Bread Tray Mountain there is supposed to be a cave through which a
+torrent rushes at times, that being the only way in which to explain the
+strange thundering, roaring noise always heard after a storm, and never
+at other times.
+
+Besides being a wonderful cave region, and rich in the great abundance
+and variety of native fruits and fine timber, Stone County has a vast
+amount of mineral wealth, the heaviest deposits being zinc, lead and
+iron, with some indications of silver, gold and copper, which have been
+found but not in paying quantity. Already since the summer of 1896
+several exceptionally pure bodies of zinc have been discovered, the
+white ore of one recently opened deposit giving highly gratifying
+indications as to extent. Prospecting may be said to have only commenced
+in this very far from over-crowded region.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+OREGON COUNTY CAVES.
+
+
+GREER SPRING.
+
+Oregon County is also at the extreme southern limit of the State of
+Missouri and was visited, not because its caves are supposed to be
+either finer or more numerous than those of all the other Ozark
+counties, but on account of remarkable attractions associated with them
+that are not known to be equaled, or even subject to rivalry, by any
+similar works of nature in any portion of the world.
+
+The most convenient railway point is Thayer; the station hotel affords
+comfortable accommodations for headquarters, and the last days of
+September proved a charming time. The foliage was in full summer glory,
+refreshed by a gentle and copious rain, and the insinuating tick had
+already retired from active business until the following season.
+
+The carriage having been ordered on condition of its being a clear day,
+we left Thayer at eight o'clock on a perfect morning to visit Greer
+Spring, and were soon in the depth of the beautiful Ozark forest, from
+which we did not once emerge until Alton, the county seat, was reached,
+the distance traveled being sixteen miles. Here we stopped for dinner at
+the small hotel kept by one of the old-time early settlers who came to
+the region before the war. The dinner was a surprise, and received the
+highest commendation possible to a dinner, the hearty appreciation of a
+boy. A young nephew, Arthur J. Owen, having been invited to act as
+escort on the trip, found all the varied experience in cave hunting
+fully equal to the pictured joys of anticipation. After a large bell
+suspended somewhere outside had notified the business public that dinner
+was ready to be served, we were invited to the dining-room, where on a
+long table was the abundance of vegetables afforded by the season and
+soil of an almost tropical state, and cooked as the white-capped chef of
+the great hotel, where the warm weeks were spent, had not learned the
+secret of; and the delicately fried chicken was not of that curious
+variety, commonly encountered by travelers, in which the development of
+legs robs the centiped of his only claim to distinction. As the dishes
+cooled they were removed and fresh supplies brought in.
+
+Our driver received directions about the road and we started on another
+drive of seven miles. These directions were "to follow the main road to
+the forks, and then keep to the Van Buren road and any one could tell
+us where Captain Greer lives."
+
+The road was, as before, through the park-like forest, and as before,
+lay chiefly along the ridge, so that where clearings had been made for
+farms there were fine views over the distant country, which everywhere
+was forest-covered hills, of a rich green near at hand but changing with
+the growth of distance, first to dark, and then to lighter blue.
+
+In these forests were fine young cattle and horses, and uncounted
+numbers of "razorbacks," or as they are otherwise called,
+"wind-splitters." For the benefit of those who may not be familiar with
+the names, it might be well to explain that they are the natural heirs
+of the native wild hog of Missouri and Arkansas. The nephew was greatly
+amused at seeing many of them with wooden yokes on their long necks, to
+prevent an easy entrance into fields and gardens by squeezing through
+the spaces between fence rails. These animals are such swift runners it
+is said they can safely cross the railroad between trucks of the fast
+express. Their snouts are so long and thin, it is also claimed that two
+can drink from a jug at the same time; never having seen it done,
+however, this is not vouched for, but merely repeated as hearsay.
+
+[Illustration: Wilderness Pinery, Oregon Co. Page 84.]
+
+After a time we stopped to inquire the way of an old man dipping water
+from a pond by the roadside. He told us he was dipping water to wash
+the wheat he was sowing in the field just over the fence, and that we
+reach the forks, then to keep the Van Buren road, pass two houses on the
+left, a white one on the right, another on the left and then inquire the
+way--anyone could tell us, and Captain Greer would show us to the
+Spring, "for he is a mighty accommodating man."
+
+On we went to the forks where in the point of the Y stood a large tree
+with a Van Buren sign-board on one side, and in the direction it
+pointed, we turned, although rather reluctantly, for it looked little
+used and rocky, while the other was in good condition; but we followed
+the sign-board and had no misgivings until it began to be realized that
+a great deal of time was being passed but no houses. The morning had
+been very chilly, but now the atmosphere was just at that balmy point
+between warm and cool that makes mere living an unqualified luxury; and
+added to this we soon found ourselves in a deep cañon no less beautiful
+than the justly celebrated North Cheyenne Cañon near Colorado Springs.
+
+There was now no doubt that we were on the wrong road, but such
+magnificence was unexpected and not to be turned from with indifference.
+
+For some distance the road makes a gradual and rather perilous looking
+descent along the steep and broken slope on the shady side of the
+ancient river's great retaining-wall, while that opposite is glorified
+by the brilliant glow of the afternoon sun, which adds an equal charm to
+the rich, luxuriant foliage below and the tall stately pines that adorn,
+without concealing, the grey rock they proudly cling to, or that rises
+in a protecting rampart three hundred feet higher than the cañon bed,
+with banners of the long-needled pine waving above to proclaim the
+perfection of Nature's undisturbed freedom.
+
+The road descending crosses the thread of water still flowing among the
+great rounded bowlders left by the former torrent, and our view is
+changed to one of dense, but by no means melancholy, shadows, with a
+crown of golden sunlight; and presently the course of the cañon turns to
+the east, and it is all filled with the yellow rays and we notice the
+bright red hawthorn berries, and masses of hydrangea still showing
+remnants of their late profusion of bloom. We Missourians have a great
+love of fine scenery and generally take long journeys into other states
+in order to gratify the taste, while quite unconscious of the wonderful
+beauty and grandeur of the Ozarks.
+
+Where the cañon begins to broaden into a small sheltered valley as it
+approaches Eleven Points River, we turned and retraced our way to the
+forks, and a short distance beyond to a house where we might again
+inquire. A woman came to the open door as we stopped and in answer to a
+question said: "You ought to have asked me when you passed here a while
+ago."
+
+Apologies for the seeming neglect were offered and accepted, then she
+explained that both roads went to Van Buren but not to Greer Spring,
+where in due time we at length arrived.
+
+The house being in one corner of a "forty" and the spring in that
+diagonally opposite, there was a walk of nearly that distance before
+coming to an old road inclining steeply down into what looked to be a
+narrow cañon. About midway of this sloping road, the space confined
+between perpendicular walls, rising to heights above on one side and
+descending to the stream on the other, widens suddenly and a picturesque
+old mill comes into view, it having been wholly screened from the
+approach by the rich growth of shrubs and trees. Chief in abundance
+among this luxury of leaf was the hydrangea,--a favorite shrub largely
+imported into this country from Japan before it was discovered as a
+native. The mill site seems to have been selected for its beauty
+although we were told that at this point the stream is seventy-two feet
+wide, and two and one half feet deep, but could be raised thirty feet
+with perfect safety by a dam, for which the rock is already on the
+ground and much of it broken ready for use. The flow is said to be two
+hundred and eighty yards per minute, with no appreciable variation, and
+never freezes. The high walls of the Greer Spring gorge will, of course,
+far more than double the value it would otherwise possess, when it
+becomes desirable to control and turn to practical account the power now
+going so cheerily to waste, but the artistic loss will be
+proportionately severe.
+
+The old mill was the scene of great activity in former times, but was
+closed on account of an unfortunate accident and for years has had no
+other duty than simply to serve as a portion of the landscape.
+
+Just beyond, the cañon makes a curving bend, the road dwindles to a
+narrow path and we behold the most beautiful scene imaginable.
+
+The cañon has come to an end and is shut in by a graceful curve of the
+high, perpendicular grey walls that are crowned with trees and shrubs,
+and decked below with a thick carpet of bright green moss. In this
+basin, which is nearly one hundred feet across, Greer Spring plunges up
+from beneath through an opening nine feet in diameter, in the midst of a
+pool of water six feet deep, and having an unvarying temperature of
+forty-nine degrees throughout the year. This water is so perfectly clear
+that not the least pebble is obscured from view, and the color scheme is
+most marvelous.
+
+[Illustration: Greer Spring. Page 88.]
+
+Where the great spring forces its way to the surface, the water is a
+deep, brilliant blue with white caps, and its falling weight keeps clear
+of moss a large spot of fine, pure, white sandstone, while all the
+balance appears a vivid green from the moss that thrives beneath the
+moving water; and surrounding these are the handsome, foliage-decked
+grey walls. The edges of the basin are thickly strewn with fallen rocks
+deeply covered with moss, in which small ferns are growing, and on these
+gay stepping stones we crossed to the head-wall of the cañon to find
+ourselves at the open mouth of a cave from which flows a clear, shallow
+stream to join the waters of the Spring in that wonderful basin. The
+entrance to the cave is an arch about fifteen feet wide and twelve feet
+high, with the clear, shallow stream spreading over the clean rock floor
+from side to side. Here now was presented a difficulty. Truly the cave
+was _not_ quite dry. The water was about ten inches deep, and my boots
+in Thayer. Contrary to advice, however, my nephew had brought his, and
+with a boy's kindness loaned them while he made the trip with bare feet
+and rolled up trousers.
+
+A short distance within, the cave widens and the floor of the extension
+being somewhat higher, is dry, but the roof drops so low over it that
+the water-course is an easier route of travel; and this soon widens
+into a lake above which the ceiling rises in a broad dome less than
+twenty feet in height, and hung with heavy masses of dripstone draperies
+of varying length, from five to seven feet; and all the ceilings are
+fringed at various heights with stalactites of every size and age, some
+being a clear, colorless onyx, while others proclaim their great age in
+the fact that they have so deteriorated that the onyx texture is either
+partly or completely lost, and what was once a pure drip crystal has
+returned to a common, porous, dull-colored limestone so soft that
+portions can be rubbed to powder in the hand.
+
+Picking the way carefully as the depth of the lovely lake increased, we
+followed the sound of falling water and peered into the dark distance in
+a vain effort to see it, yet expecting to reach that special object of
+interest by keeping to the shallower parts of the lake. These
+expectations were shattered suddenly when the boots filled with water,
+and that called to mind the fact that twenty-three miles and a chilly
+night lay between us and dry clothing; so we returned to the outside
+world and rested on the rocks where Captain Greer and our young driver
+waited for us. The cave has never been fully explored, and probably we
+penetrated farther than others have ever done, as the owner knew
+nothing of the falling water we so distinctly heard and were surely very
+near.
+
+The view from the rocks is wonderfully beautiful and includes both the
+entrance to the cave, with its flowing stream, and the receiving basin
+with its bounding stream. But it was growing late in the afternoon, and
+there was another cave whose entrance was in the perpendicular wall
+above the end of the path by which we had come. This entrance could be
+reached by a dilapidated ladder; assisted by a forked pole and supplied
+with candles and matches, my nephew and I achieved the ascent with not
+much trouble. Here we found what is, no doubt, one of the oldest caves
+known.
+
+The original cavity is nearly filled up with masses of onyx--colorless
+crystal and white striped with pale shades of grey. The cave is
+perfectly dry and freshly broken surfaces in some places show signs of
+deterioration, so how can we venture even a guess as to the time it has
+required to first excavate the cave and then fill it with masses of rock
+deposited by the slow drip process, and later, for that crystalline rock
+in a now dry atmosphere to present a perceptible weakening? We went as
+far as passages could be crawled into, which was no great distance, and
+at once started on our uncertain descent of the ladder; but this was not
+a matter of so much concern as the upward trip, for the success of
+which some doubts were entertained; for going down is always naturally a
+less certain matter, as one can fall if more desirable means are
+unsuccessful, and I have unexpectedly reached many coveted points in
+this simple manner.
+
+Taking a last look at Greer Spring with its cave river, grey walls, gay
+with foliage, and all the harmony of color and form combined in the
+narrow cañon that was once the main body of a great cave, I recalled
+views on the Hudson River and in the mountains of Maryland, Virginia and
+Pennsylvania, and others out in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado and the
+Wausatch in Utah, but amid all their wonderful grandeur and famous
+beauty, could remember no spot superior to this masterpiece of the
+Ozarks.
+
+The proprietor of the Spring and a thousand acres of land adjacent, took
+personal possession on the day of Lincoln's first election, to establish
+a home.
+
+The sun having failed to consider our wishes was now about to disappear
+in a gleaming flood of gold, so the return to Thayer that night was out
+of the question. Our host and his wife observed that fact and cordially
+invited us to remain for the night and as much longer as we would like
+to, but being unwilling to impose on kindness to such an extent, we
+returned to the hotel in Alton, and now urgently advise that those who
+ever have an opportunity to enjoy a moonlight drive through the Ozark
+forests should not let it pass unimproved.
+
+
+OTHER CAVES NEAR BY.
+
+About twelve miles from Alton there are three other caves worthy of
+attention. Two of these are known only as The Saltpetre Caves, and the
+third as The Bat Cave.
+
+Not many persons care to visit the Bat Cave, for although its
+inhabitants are small, they have evidently decided to profit by the
+experience of the Red Man and take no risks through hospitality. Their
+warnings can be heard like distant thunder for some distance outside the
+cave, and any unheeding intruder is set upon in fury by such vast
+numbers of the little creatures that his only safety is in hasty
+retreat.
+
+During the war the two Saltpetre Caves were worked to a considerable
+extent, and also served as safe retreats for the residents of the
+region, as well as the visiting "Jonny," when the vicinity became
+oppressively "blue."
+
+Both of these caves are especially notable on account of the fine
+stalactites with which they are abundantly supplied; most of them being
+snow white and from fourteen to twenty feet in length.
+
+Unfortunately, most of the caves in this region have been deprived of
+great quantities of their beautiful adornments by visitors who are
+allowed to choose the best and remove it in such quantities as may suit
+their convenience and pleasure. Those who own the caves, and those who
+visit them, would do well to remember that if all the natural adornment
+should be allowed to remain in its original position, it would continue
+to afford pleasure to many persons for an indefinite time; but if
+broken, removed, and scattered the pleasure to a few will be
+comparatively little and that short-lived. The gift of beauty should
+always be honored and protected for the public good.
+
+We were not so fortunate as to discover fossils of any kind in this
+locality, although the search was by no means thorough; but even if it
+had been the result might have been the same, since that county and
+others adjoining have been mapped as Cambrian. The greater part of the
+exposed rock is a fine sandstone almost as white as gypsum on a fresh
+fracture, and much of it is ripple-marked so as to show a beautifully
+fluted surface of remarkable regularity. These ripple flutings are
+sometimes more than an inch in width, and often less, but the variations
+never appear on the same level, the smallest being seen on the hill-tops
+and the larger outcropping on the downward slopes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+THE GRAND GULF.
+
+
+Oregon County, Missouri, is also fortunate in having within its limits
+the Grand Gulf, which has been declared by competent judges to be one of
+the wonders of the world; and it offers a combination of attractions
+that certainly entitles it to an important place among a limited few of
+America's choicest scenes.
+
+The Gulf is nearly nine miles northwest of Thayer, Missouri, and about
+equally distant from Mammoth Spring in Arkansas, just a little south of
+the Missouri state line. The drive is a pleasant one, as the road winds
+among the forest-clad hills and passes occasional fields of cotton and
+corn; but having been macadamized in very ancient times by the original
+and all-powerful general government of that early period is somewhat
+rough, yet threatens no danger greater than the destruction of wheels.
+
+The only approach to the Gulf is over the hill-tops; and the entrance in
+past times, while it was still a cave, must have been a sink-hole in the
+roof of the largest chamber. This chamber is now the upper end of the
+Grand Gulf, and into it we descended by a rugged path, sufficiently
+difficult to maintain expectations of grandeur that are not doomed to
+disappointment. The precipitous walls, two hundred feet in height, bear
+a faithful record of the energy of circling floods; but instead of
+frowning, as some good people persistently accuse all noble heights of
+doing, they seem to look with conscious pride towards the windings of
+the great rough chasm, where every available spot has been seized on as
+a homestead for some form of vegetation. All the great, dark rock masses
+that interfere with easy progress along the lowest depth, were
+surrounded by a feathery setting of blooming white agaratum; and each
+turn in the winding course reveals new charms of rock and verdure with
+their varying lights and shadows until the crowning glory is reached at
+the Natural Bridge, about twelve hundred feet from the upper end of the
+cañon. This bridge is magnificent. It was impossible to secure
+photographs because the abrupt curve by which it is approached gave no
+point of view for a small camera; and it was equally impossible to reach
+desirable points for taking measurements, but the open arch is not less
+than twenty feet wide and considerably more than that in height. From
+the floor or bed of the Gulf to the road that crosses the bridge is more
+than two hundred feet. The passage under the bridge makes a curve, the
+shortest side of which measures exactly two hundred and nineteen feet,
+and as the width varies from twenty to forty feet, the other side is
+longer. Most of the floor is flat and level as also is the ceiling, the
+greatest irregularities being along the wall of greater length which
+shows at what points the rushing water has spent its force. No water
+flows through here now except in times of heavy rainfall. The other end
+of the bridge has a somewhat smaller span but is very handsome, and the
+outward views from both are exceedingly fine. After traversing about
+four hundred feet more of the beautiful, high-walled Gulf, we stood
+before the grand entrance to the cave, which is strikingly similar to
+the first arch of the bridge. The only picture I was able to get was
+taken from the slope of the Bridge-crown, one hundred feet below the
+road, and merely gives a suggestion of the magnificence waiting
+peacefully for the crowds of eager and enthusiastic sight-seers who will
+in the near future rush to this charming region in the "Land of the Big
+Red Apple."
+
+My companions were the same as mentioned in the preceding chapter, a
+nephew, James Arther Owen, and an obliging, tall young man of twenty,
+who acted as guide and driver.
+
+Relieving ourselves of all superfluous burdens just within the cave
+entrance, we lighted candles and sat down to wait for our eyes to
+adjust themselves to the changed condition, from brilliant sunlight to
+absolute darkness, broken only by the feeble strength of three candles.
+It was noticeable that in the moist atmosphere of the Missouri caves,
+three candles were not more than equal to one in the dry caves of South
+Dakota.
+
+Very soon we were able to continue the inspection of our surroundings,
+and the large passage we were in would more properly be called a long
+chamber, of irregular width but averaging about thirty feet. This ends
+abruptly nearly five hundred feet from the entrance, but a small passage
+scarcely more than six feet high runs off at right angles, and into this
+we turn. It is not quite so nearly dry as the outer chamber, and at a
+distance of less than one hundred feet we suddenly come to the end of
+dry land at an elbow of the silently flowing river whose channel we had
+almost stepped into. The ceiling dipped so we were not able to stand
+straight, and the guide said he had never gone farther; but to his
+surprise here was a light boat which I am ready to admit he displayed no
+eagerness to appropriate to his own use, and swimming about it, close to
+shore, were numerous small, eyeless fish, pure white and perfectly
+fearless; the first I had ever seen, and little beauties.
+
+By burning magnesium ribbon we saw that the passage before us was a low
+arch and occupied from wall to wall by water, the direction of the flow
+being into another of somewhat greater size at right angles to that by
+which we had come, and at the mouth of this lay the boat. The distance
+we could see in either direction was of tantalizing shortness, and the
+boat was provided with no means of guidance or control, save an
+abundance of slender twine which secured it to a log of drift from the
+outside; so I decided to leave my companions in charge of the main coil
+of twine while I went on an excursion alone, there being not much
+evident cause for apprehension as no living cow could ever have made the
+trip to this favored spot.
+
+Although the water looked perfectly placid, the boat drifted with
+surprising speed, so that the two scared faces peering after me were
+soon lost sight of. The channel was nowhere more than six feet wide,
+consequently as the boat inclined to drive against either wall I was
+able with care to keep it off the rocks with my hands, and in the same
+way guide it around the sharp turns in safety. After several of these
+turns there appeared the mouth of a passage so much smaller that the
+roof was only twelve inches above the sides of the boat and I could
+touch both walls at the same time. By running the boat across this it
+was held in place by the current, and I could sit at ease and enjoy the
+position, which even the least imaginative person can readily conceive
+to have been a novel one.
+
+The small eyeless fish had been noticeable in the water everywhere but
+now came swimming about the boat in an astonishing multitude, and as
+unconscious of any possible danger as bees in a flower garden. Having no
+eyes, they were naturally undisturbed by the light, so the candle could
+be held close to the water for a satisfactory examination of the happy
+creatures.
+
+They bore a striking resemblance to minnows, although a few were larger,
+and it is claimed that four or five inches are sizes not unusual, but
+they happened not to be on exhibition. Even dipping a hand into the
+water in their midst occasioned no alarm, and they might have been
+caught by dozens.
+
+The guide now loudly called that he had fears of the twine being cut on
+the sharp edges of rock, and that cutting off all possibility of the
+boat's return, which being sufficiently reasonable, explorations were
+indefinitely suspended, and a landing soon made. The camera and
+flash-light were then prepared for taking a view, and a point of light
+being needed to work by the nephew was asked to sit in the boat with his
+candle, to which he readily consented; but judging from the developed
+picture it may be doubted if his pleasure at the time was extremely
+keen.
+
+On leaving the cave the guide said it would not be necessary to return
+to the upper end of the Gulf in order to reach the surface, as the
+ascent could be made in another place; and leading the way to the left
+of the entrance he started up the nearly perpendicular wall, more than
+two hundred feet high, by a sort of "blind trail" that would have caused
+a mountain sheep to sigh for wings, but it was very beautiful.
+
+We walked over to the wagon road on the high ridge above the middle of
+the bridge and going down the forest-clad slopes to the perpendicular
+wall in which is the smaller of the great arches, admired from this fair
+point of view the marvelous grandeur of one of the greatest natural
+wonders.
+
+The weather being perfect after a rain the day before, there was no need
+of haste to get indoors, so we lingered into the afternoon and then
+drove to the Mammoth Spring, in Arkansas, a short distance south of the
+Missouri state line, where the Cave River, just visited, comes to the
+surface in a bounding spring of great force. The distance being little
+less than nine miles.
+
+The basin filled by the Spring might be called a lake, as its size of
+two hundred by three hundred feet gives it that appearance, and the
+color is a remarkable deep blue. The volume of water is so nearly
+uniform that the height seldom varies more than two or three inches,
+but three years ago a storm of unusual violence carried out most of the
+native fish, and in restocking from Government supplies, the clear, cold
+water suggested an experiment with mountain trout which are found to be
+doing well.
+
+Where Mammoth Spring flows out its power is utilized by a flour mill on
+one bank and a cotton mill on the other, and the water flowing on forms
+Spring River, well known for the charm of its beautiful scenery.
+
+This Spring is described by Dr. David Dale Owen in his First Report of a
+Geological Reconnoissance of the northern counties of Arkansas, 1857 and
+1858, pp. 60-61.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE BLACK HILLS AND BAD LANDS.
+
+
+In order to thoroughly appreciate and enjoy the wonderful caves of South
+Dakota, which are found within the limits of the Black Hills, it is
+necessary to have some knowledge of the geological character and history
+of that peculiar region.
+
+Prof. J.E. Todd, State Geologist, in his "Preliminary Report on the
+Geology of South Dakota," gives an interesting "Historical Sketch of
+Explorations" in his state, beginning with the expedition of Captains
+Lewis and Clark to the upper Missouri regions in 1804-6 to explore that
+portion of the recent Louisiana Purchase for the government and notify
+the Indians of the transfer; and including all other important
+expeditions since that time down to his own official tour of the Black
+Hills and Bad Lands in 1894. His own descriptions are so concise and
+graphic as to invite quotation. Of the Hills he says:
+
+"The Black Hills have an area of five-thousand square miles of a rudely
+elliptical form with its major axis, approximately, north-northwest.
+Most of this area lies within our state. The true limit of the Hills is
+quite distinctly marked by a sharp ridge of sandstone, three hundred to
+six hundred feet in relative height, which becomes broader and more
+plateau-like towards the north and south ends. This ridge is separated
+from the higher mass of hills within by a valley one to three miles in
+breadth, which is known as the Red Valley, from its brick-red soil, or
+the 'race course,' which name was given it by the Indians because of its
+open and smooth character, affording easy and rapid passage around the
+Hills. The junction of the outer base of the Hills with the surrounding
+table lands has an altitude of three thousand, five hundred to four
+thousand feet. Within this Red Valley one gradually ascends the outer
+slope of the Hills and soon enters, at an altitude of four thousand five
+hundred or five thousand feet, the woody portion of the region. This
+outer slope varies greatly in width and is underlaid by older
+sedimentary rocks, cut in almost every direction by narrow deep cañons.
+This feature covers nearly the whole of the western half of the Hills
+proper, where erosion has been less active on account of its distance
+from the main channels of drainage. Usually, from the broken interior
+edge of this slope or sedimentary plateau one descends a bluff or
+escarpment, and enters the central area of slates, granite, and
+quartzites, which is carved into high ridges and sharp peaks cut by many
+narrow and deep valleys and ravines and generally thickly timbered with
+the common pine of the Rocky Mountains. Toward the south, about Harney
+Peak, the surface is peculiarly rugged and difficult to traverse. Toward
+the north, also, about Terry and Custer peaks, a smaller rugged surface
+appears; but in the central area between and extending west of the
+Harney range is a region which is characterized by open and level parks
+much lower than the surrounding peaks and ridges."
+
+The Archæan rocks which form the core of the Hills mark the center of
+the various uplifts which have attended their formation and controlled
+their history. The coarse granite of Harney Peak indicating that, as the
+central point of the earliest upheaval, and the three porphyries known
+as rhyolite, trachyte, and phonolite, showing the uplifts of later
+periods to have had their centers a little more to the north, but the
+entire area is said to be only about sixty miles long and twenty-five
+miles in width. It is exceptionally rough and mountainous, and
+consequently has great charms for the lover of fine scenery. Erosion has
+only partially denuded the peaks of the sedimentary rocks through which
+they were thrust up, or by which they were overlaid during the earlier
+part of several subsequent periods of submersion. The Hills, in these
+remote times, led but a doubtful and precarious existence, being now an
+isolated island rising out of a shallow sea, and then, owing to a
+general subsidence, submerged in the ocean to so great a depth that even
+Harney Peak is supposed to have almost, if not entirely, disappeared.
+This up and down motion continued at intervals until the Fox Hills epoch
+of the Cretaceous Age, at the close of which the sea retired forever
+from that portion of the country. In the next epoch fresh water work
+began and extensive marshes were formed, with an abundant growth of
+vegetation and reptiles. There was also much volcanic violence which
+resulted in the fine scenery in the north end of the Black Hills, and
+probably opened the fissures to form Wind Cave, the Onyx Caves in the
+southern hills and Crystal Cave near the eastern edge toward the north.
+This was near the close of the Cretaceous Age. But here is a point on
+which the best authorities who have studied the porphyry peaks, have
+failed to agree; Prof. N.H. Winchell believing that the intrusion
+occurred, probably, during the Jura Trias, but as Cretaceous beds, of
+more recent date, are found to have been distorted by the outflow, it
+seems that Professors Todd, Newton and Carpenter hold the stronger
+position and that the later time is correct.
+
+No record of the next geological stage, which was the Eocene, or earlier
+part of the Tertiary Age, has been found in the Hills, because they were
+at that time dry land with gently flowing, shallow streams, and
+consequently no strata were laid down; but they are supposed, through
+later evidences, to have had a tropical climate and vegetation, enjoyed
+by large animals of strange new forms. The volume of fresh water
+afterwards became so great that immense lakes spread over large portions
+of the west, one of which occupied most of the region around the Black
+Hills at the beginning of the Miocene, and animal life was more abundant
+than ever before and of higher orders, many species being the same as
+are now in existence. The weather became more and more inclement and as
+the storms increased the erosion of the Hills also increased, and the
+rivers changed to torrents with deep channels. Earthquakes are supposed
+to have occurred and also volcanic eruptions.
+
+The Black Hills were now rising steadily, and as the slope of the
+streams increased, the channels cut deeper, and the fissures now known
+as caves had long been filled with water.
+
+The most important of the numerous animals of the Tertiary Age yet
+discovered in the Hills and surrounding region, are the Titanotherium or
+Brontotherium, similar to our Hippopotamus, the Oreodon, and a small
+horse having three toes on each foot. A little later in the same Age
+the horses were similar to those of the present time and of equal size,
+which proves that the wild horses of the West were not descended from
+the few lost by the Spanish Invaders. At this time the first lions,
+camels, mastodons, and mammoths also appeared. The remains of these
+animals are so abundant in places as to indicate that they perished in
+herds that were overwhelmed suddenly by great floods, and many, no
+doubt, huddled together and perished with cold; for with the beginning
+of the present age the Hills had reached their highest elevation, the
+inclement weather increased, and the tropical climate suddenly changed
+to one extremely cold. It was the beginning of the Glacial Period or Ice
+Age, when a large portion of the United States is supposed to have been
+covered by a sheet of ice. The ice is believed to have entered South
+Dakota from the northeast and its drift across the state limited by a
+line so closely following the present course of the Missouri River that
+many of us would be inclined to consider it the western bluff. Beyond
+this line the ice failed to push its way, but the Hills were subject to
+heavy rain storms that filled the streams and carried large quantities
+of bowlders and other eroded material, both coarse and fine, down into
+the valleys and over the lower hills, where much of the moderately
+coarse can now be seen exposed on the surface, and fine specimens
+collected without the use of a hammer. The brilliantly colored, striped
+and mottled agates, and the bright, delicate tints of the quartz
+crystal, are particularly attractive to the majority of visitors. The
+beauty of these gaily colored rocks is quite extensively utilized by the
+inhabitants of the southern and southeastern hills to supply the place
+of growing plants which are generally denied by the inconvenience of the
+water supply. The quartzite of the Hills is well crystallized and heavy.
+I have one beautiful specimen of the dark Indian red variety through
+which passes a narrow line of pale blue, and the yellow quartzite or
+jasper sometimes shows dendrite markings. Very great quantities of
+agates and jasper, mostly in small pieces, but unlimited variety, are to
+be seen in portions of the Bad Lands, south of the fork of the Cheyenne
+River, with an almost equal abundance of baculites and numerous other
+fossils.
+
+The wide expanse of deep ravines and sharp, barren ridges in the Bad
+Lands is a unique departure from the usual phases of natural scenery
+that inspire interest and wonder, but no great admiration, until one
+soon learns that the law of compensation has been strictly observed. The
+beauty of vegetation denied those desolate buttes and ridges is atoned
+for by a marvelous abundance of most wonderful crystals of aragonite,
+calcite, barite and satin spar; each to itself, or two or more combined
+in beautiful geodes or else arranged in great flat slabs crystallized on
+both sides of a thin sheet of lime. These slabs are composed of crystals
+of uniform size and of a pale green tint. But the geodes show some
+striking combinations of both crystals and colors with an exterior
+formed like box work, composed of a very heavy dark material said to be
+a mixture of barium, calcium and iron. The interior may be a bright
+green or lemon yellow, or perhaps the two in combination, while others
+yet may be either of these varieties with the addition of flat crystals
+of almost transparent satin spar. These crystals also occur in masses of
+the same box-like formation rising just so much above the surface of the
+barren ridge they occupy as to give it the appearance of a prairie dog
+town. One hill-top over which an abundance of detached crystals, of the
+palest water-green tint, has been spread, gave the impression of being
+covered with crushed ice. This transformation from a richly tropical to
+a marvelously barren region, was accomplished during the time when
+storms reigned over the Hills and ice ruled the country to the north and
+east.
+
+The long slender barite crystals of a bright golden brown color are
+especially beautiful but are generally seen in the specimen stores, as
+the deposit is confined to limited areas and the few persons familiar
+with the locations are not over anxious to introduce the general public.
+
+The fossil remains previously referred to are of course only a few of
+the most important, but it is remarked as a curious and notable fact
+that among the fossils of the lower orders of life in the Bad Lands, the
+heads have not been preserved. On account of scarcity of water it is
+necessary for parties to carry a supply even when they expect to be in
+the vicinity of the Cheyenne River and probably ford the South fork, as
+these waters carry in solution a quantity of alkali that renders them
+unfit for drinking, although the effects would not be fatal but simply
+the extreme reverse of pleasant.
+
+No caves have been discovered in the Bad Lands, unless that name be
+applied to some of the geodes which are really grottoes, they being of
+sufficient size for a man to stand in. The Black Hills, however, contain
+some of the most remarkable caves ever yet discovered, of which those of
+greatest importance are Wind Cave and the three Onyx Caves near Hot
+Springs, in the southeastern part of the Hills, and Crystal Cave near
+Piedmont, in the northeast. All of these occur in the Carboniferous
+Limestone which forms an outer belt around the central mass or core of
+the Hills and no doubt, as previously suggested, owes its fissures to
+earthquakes which preceded or accompanied the porphyry intrusions by
+which in some localities its strata have been thrown into a vertical
+position.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+WIND CAVE.
+
+
+Wind Cave was discovered in 1881 by a hunter named Thomas Bingham, who
+being weary of a fruitless chase sat down to rest, and was soon startled
+by the sound of rushing wind on a calm day; and at the same time by a
+singular hair-raising sensation, as his hat was lifted from his head and
+thrown high in the air. He is said to have afterwards declared that
+although frightened nearly out of his wits, he determined to find the
+cause of his alarm, and on turning slightly discovered a hole about
+eight by twelve inches in size through which a roaring wind was issuing
+from the earth. As his hair maintained the aggressive attitude taken,
+the recovered hat could not be returned to its usual place, so an hour
+was spent in laying it across the opening and watching its instant
+projection into upper space; after which he set out to tell of the
+wonderful discovery. The announcement, however, was not received
+seriously and he was assured of the impossibility of the wind blowing
+through a hill of solid rock, and his brother explained to him that he
+had been too self-indulgent and consequently imagined the whole affair.
+A protest of total abstinence failed to inspire confidence, but the
+brother promised to go the next day to see for himself, and did. The hat
+was again placed over the opening as before, but instead of taking the
+expected lofty flight, it was drawn in and has never since been seen:
+the current had reversed. Soon after this the hole was enlarged to
+eighteen by thirty inches and the cave entered by quite a number of
+venturesome persons assisted by a long rope and ample personal courage.
+No other improvements were made, and only a short distance was explored,
+until Mr. J.D. McDonald settled on the property in 1890; since which
+time he and his sons have explored ninety-seven miles of passage and
+done such extensive work in opening up small passages and placing
+ladders, that it is now possible for visitors to travel long distances
+with surprising ease and comfort. The measure of distances in the cave
+is not by the usual guess-work method which has established the
+short-measure reputation for cave miles, but is done with a fair degree
+of accuracy by means of the twine used to mark the trail in exploring
+new passages. A careful measurement of the twine has shown it to run
+nine balls to the mile with a close average of regularity, so it is the
+custom to add another mile to the cave record as often as a ninth ball
+becomes exhausted.
+
+Wind Cave is twelve miles north of Hot Springs by a good road which
+offers somewhat meager attractions to the artist, but is more liberal
+towards the geologist, and especially so in fine exposures of the gypsum
+bearing Red Beds of the Triassic. Limited patches of it are also exposed
+in each of the caves, generally carrying small quantities of selenite,
+which is crystallized gypsum, or in other words, crystallized sulphate
+of lime. This brilliant red color is so prominent in portions of the
+Hills, and attracts so much wondering attention in other well known
+regions of the West, that it would seem an unpardonable neglect of
+opportunity should we fail to again quote Prof. Todd for an explanation
+of the cause of the vivid coloring. Commencing he says: "Newton remarks
+concerning this:[4] 'A large percentage of peroxide of iron in the red
+beds, to which they owe their bright red color, bears an interesting
+relation to the absence of fossils. The material of which sediments are
+formed is derived, by the various processes of denudation, from the
+rocks of older land surfaces. Whatever iron they contain is dissolved
+from the land and transported in a condition of protoxide and some proto
+salt, such as the carbonate, and the process is facilitated by the
+presence of carbonic acid in the water. Now iron occurs in these older
+rocks as protoxide and peroxide, the former of which is soluble and the
+latter insoluble in water. The peroxide, however, by the action of
+organic matter, such as is held in solution in boggy waters, may be
+deprived of a portion of its oxygen and converted into protoxide and
+thus be rendered soluble. If the iron-bearing water is confined first in
+a shallow basin and exposed long to the action of the atmosphere the
+protoxide of iron absorbs the oxygen and is precipitated as an insoluble
+red peroxide of iron. If, however, plant or animal life be present in
+sufficient quantities, this oxidation is prevented. In case but little
+foreign material, clay or sand, has been brought by the waters, the
+deposit will be an iron ore. In case large quantities of foreign
+material are deposited from the waters at the same time, there will be
+produced, in the absence of life, a brown or red clay or sandstone, and
+in its presence a white or light colored formation containing the iron
+as a carbonate. We reason therefore from the condition in which the iron
+is found in the red beds, that there could have been little or no life,
+animal or vegetable, in the water from which it was deposited. The
+conclusion is strengthened by the fact of the large quantities of gypsum
+which are usually derived from the evaporation of saline waters. The
+degree of saline concentration which the precipitation of gypsum
+indicates, would be highly inimical to life. The presence of gypsum
+helps to account for the absence of life, and the absence of life
+accounts for the brilliant color. The three prominent characteristics of
+the formation (that is the red beds) are therefore quite in harmony with
+each other.'" (Geol. Blk. Hills, p. 138.)
+
+Continuing the subject, Professor Todd says: "Accepting this explanation
+of the striking red color, the question remains as to how these
+circumstances, favorable for its formation, were produced.
+
+"This red color is quite common in the whole Rocky Mountain region, not
+only on the eastern slope of the mountains, but to the various detached
+members of the system. We must, therefore, look for some extensive
+condition. If we seek some case in the present, parallel to the one
+already indicated, we perhaps can find none better than one on the
+eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, where, because of dry climate and the
+shallow waters, the deposition of gypsum and salt is now going on. In
+the gulf known as the Kara Boghaz, which is separated from the Caspian
+by a narrow strait, the evaporation is so rapid as to produce an almost
+constant flow from the sea into it. This strait and this gulf give the
+impression to an unlearned observer that there must be a mysterious
+subterranean outlet. The water flows in, carrying with it the salt and
+other soluble minerals. It then evaporates, leaving the salt and
+minerals behind."
+
+This explanation is calculated to afford particular pleasure to the many
+visitors to the Garden of the Gods, in Colorado, who seldom receive
+satisfactory answers to their questions as to the reasons "why." In that
+much visited spot, however, the great mass of the deposit has been
+removed by erosion and the curiously shaped remnants are only such
+portions as were exceptionally hard and consequently withstood the
+action of the submerging waters.
+
+Having made a considerable stop on the way to Wind Cave, we will now
+hurry on, but with good horses and a fine day the drive is one of great
+pleasure. The road gradually rises to higher ground and soon reaches a
+point six hundred feet more elevated than Hot Springs, with a charming
+view of hill and valley distances, and the way then continues over the
+hill-tops. At one point by the roadside a circle of tent-stones still
+marks the spot occupied by Sitting Bull for a week or more after the
+Custer massacre, while he camped here and in the security of his
+commanding position watched the movements of the government troops who
+were in search of him.
+
+Hot Springs and Buffalo Gap are both included in the wide-spread view.
+Beside the road and scattered about in all directions are fine specimens
+of agates and quartz crystal which seem most beautiful and most abundant
+on the hills in the immediate vicinity of the cave, the crystals being
+either rose pink, pale green, yellow, white or colorless.
+
+Arriving at the cave, the entrance is not visible, but between the
+ravine in which it is located and the road, there is the cave office and
+small hotel, on the ravine side of which an outer stairway leads down to
+the cave entrance, over which has been built a log cabin.
+
+On account of the precautions taken for the protection of visitors,
+accidents are so rare that it might almost be said that none occur.
+Every person is required to register before entering the cave and all
+returning parties are carefully counted, although they are usually
+unaware of the fact. They are always accompanied by two guides and
+others are added if the party is large. No one is, on any account,
+permitted to wander in advance of the head guide or linger behind the
+one in the rear.
+
+Within the cabin the immediate entrance to the cave is securely closed,
+and in order that the door may not be forced from its fastenings by the
+roaring wind which shakes it threateningly, it opens in, instead of out.
+This wind suggested the name Wind Cave, and will probably be utilized,
+at no very distant time, to generate electricity for lighting the
+cavern.
+
+The wind is strongest at the surface, and a guide goes down first to
+place lights in sheltered nooks where the force has begun to diminish,
+about fifty feet below the entrance; and here we light our candles
+which, if guarded somewhat, are not extinguished unless the current is
+unusually severe. The balance of the descent of one hundred and
+fifty-five feet from the surface to the first chamber is easily
+accomplished.
+
+This would be the least interesting room in the cave if it were not the
+Bride's Chamber, on account of having once been the scene of a marriage
+ceremony. But no others are in need of assistance of such romantic
+nature, as all are curiously and handsomely decorated, with such a
+charming variety of deposits, artistically massed, combined or
+contrasted, that every step brings fresh pleasure, and monotony is
+nowhere.
+
+Passing from this room by a long, narrow passage, in the walls of which
+are observed many beautiful little pockets of crystals, attention is
+presently called to Lincoln's Fireplace, a perfectly natural specimen of
+the old-fashioned design broadly open in the chimney; doubtless just
+such an one as Mr. Lincoln's good mother hung the crane in and set the
+Dutch oven before. A little beyond and on the opposite side of the
+crevice is Prairie-dog town, not a very extensive town, to be sure, but
+so true a copy that one unfamiliar with the small animal and his style
+of architecture would afterwards easily recognize both. At one time his
+dogship was carried away by a too eager collector, but a letter to the
+suspected visitor brought him home by the next freight.
+
+The Dutch Clock occupies a position on a shelf near by, and all southern
+visitors greet the Alligator as a familiar friend, as all of us joyfully
+meet any acquaintance from home.
+
+A long narrow passage, formerly a "tight crawl," but later opened up by
+heavy blasting, must be traversed before we come to the Snow Ball Room,
+beautiful with round spots of untinted carbonate of lime, as if fresh
+soft snow had been thrown by the handful over walls and ceilings, with
+the additional ornamentation of calcite crystals. In the crevice beyond
+rises the Church Steeple, diminishing regularly, though roughly, in
+size, to a height of sixty feet, but not degraded with the little
+squirming stairway usually seen in Church spires.
+
+The next room is the Post Office, in which we are for the first time
+introduced to the greatest peculiarity and most abundant formation known
+to the cave. Being a newly discovered addition to geology it has no
+scientific name and therefore is simply called box work, because it
+resembles boxes of many shapes and sizes. The formation of the box work
+is generally regarded as an unexplained and unexplainable mystery, but a
+careful study of various portions of the cave shows it in all stages of
+development and suggests a reasonable theory as to the cause of its
+origin and variety of development. The volcanic disturbances which have
+already been discussed as having been responsible for the various
+uplifts and depressions of the Black Hills region, and also for opening
+the fissures which gave the cave a beginning, must have supplied the
+conditions that were necessary to the formation of box work. And these
+preliminary conditions were merely cracks in the rock. By the violence
+of earth movement the limestone has been crushed, probably when the land
+was undergoing depression, prior to the upheaval which opened the great
+parallel fissures. The varying hardness of the rock, as well as
+proximity to the surface, would readily account for the difference in
+size of the fractures, which is from one-half inch to twelve inches; the
+largest being the most distant from the surface. That this crushing was
+done before the salt waters retired from the region, which was towards
+the close of the Cretaceous Age, is sufficiently evident in the fact
+that portions of the Red Beds show similar fractures with the cracks
+filled with gypsum, and gypsum, as we have already seen, is a salt
+water deposit.
+
+After the crushing was done the cracks in the Carboniferous Limestone
+were filled with water heavily charged with calcium carbonate, taken in
+solution from the rock, first from pulverized particles, and afterwards
+by percolation and contact with exposed surfaces. This calcium carbonate
+was slowly deposited in crystalline form, so that in time the cracks
+were filled and the crushed rock firmly cemented with calcite seams. But
+in the meantime the removal of the calcium carbonate had started
+disintegration of the more exposed portions of the rock, which steadily
+continuing, finally reduced the porous body between the crystal seams to
+a soft clay which was gradually dissolved and carried out through small
+imperfections in the thin crystal sheets, leaving the empty box work as
+we find it. But where blasting has exposed fresh surfaces, much of the
+solid limestone carries the box-like sheets of crystal.
+
+The thinnest box work is seen in the upper levels, from which the waters
+retired soonest, and the heaviest and most beautiful is in the Blue
+Grotto, on the eighth level where the water remained longest and its
+diminished volume became most heavily charged. In many places, however,
+there is another heavy variety known as pop-corn box work, which seems
+to be an impure lime carbonate not so finely crystallized as the other,
+but at the time of my visit no explanation had been given of the manner
+of its deposit; and my own theory that it was not formed under water had
+nothing to sustain it until, a few weeks later, while visiting Crystal
+Cave, the work was found in active progress on surfaces occupying every
+position, and the agent was dripping water. In all cases the original
+box work has been in thin sheets of calcite, and the heavy varieties are
+due to later deposits of calcite and aragonite crystals or, pop corn.
+
+The colors are white, yellow, blue and chocolate brown; the last named
+predominating to a great extent in that portion of the cave most easily
+traveled by visitors, and forming the ceiling and a part of one wall in
+the Post Office, where, as has been said before, it first appears. The
+effect is not dreary as might be imagined, and parties are generally
+photographed here because one side of the room is white and greatly
+assists the flash. This is a smooth, perpendicular wall marking the line
+of the fissure and showing the strata of the rock in horizontal position
+whitened with a thin coating of carbonate of lime. All visitors are
+cordially invited to please themselves in leaving cards, letters or
+papers in this chamber, which is reserved for that purpose, and to
+refrain from leaving them in other portions of the cave or defacing the
+walls with names.
+
+Roe's Misery is a long, narrow passage into which, during the early
+times before its size had been increased by blasting, a large man named
+Roe crawled to his sorrow. Being larger than the hole he stuck fast, and
+neither his own efforts nor those of the guides could relieve the
+situation until a rope was sent for, and having been brought, was
+securely fastened to his feet, when a long pull and a strong one finally
+opened the passage. It is told that he claimed to have reviewed all the
+objectionable acts of his life, by which his friends understood that he
+occupied the motionless position not less than three weeks.
+
+Red Hall is very nearly described by its name and is quite a showy room,
+with the bright red walls contrasting sharply with their limited
+ornamentation of pure white carbonate of lime and pearly crystals of
+calcite.
+
+Off to one side of Red Hall is a beautiful little chamber called Old
+Maids' Grotto, probably on account of its trim appearance and ideal
+location. It is so entirely concealed from the view of those passing on
+the public highway, that its existence is not even suspected, until
+special attention is called to its cosiness, and then it is necessary to
+mount an accumulation of great water-rounded rocks in order to obtain
+convincing evidence of its actual reality. It is a long, narrow room,
+shut in by a straight wall sufficiently high for rigid seclusion, or
+protection, without preventing a glimpse of passing events.
+
+A break in the description is made here for the purpose of inserting a
+description, written at the author's request, by Mr. E.L. McDonald. He
+was generally our special guide. He has chosen to describe the route
+taken by the majority of visitors and therefore the balance of my
+observations within those limits are omitted.
+
+All who are familiar with those passages and chambers will observe while
+reading the next chapter that no imaginary attractions are added to the
+existing facts, but many interesting minor points are missing.
+
+Only such changes are made as were agreed to as the condition on which
+he would attempt a piece of work so at variance with his usual
+occupations.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] U.S. Geological Survey. Geology of the Black Hills. Henry Newton, p.
+138.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+WIND CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+THE FAIR GROUNDS ROUTE.
+
+"At 9:30 in the morning the train bringing health-seekers and tourists
+arrives at Hot Springs, a beautiful little city nestled in the
+southernmost foot-hills of the world-reputed Black Hills of South
+Dakota. The choice of a hotel is soon made, and when located, the
+new-comers observe the other guests and acquaint themselves with the
+attractions of the resort. Probably during the day they are approached
+by the solicitor of the wonderful Wind Cave, who explains that the best
+way to reach the cave is by means of the coach and four seen at the
+hotel in the morning, and arrangements are made for the following day.
+The next morning, seated in the tally-ho coach with strangers who are
+soon acquaintances, you start on a beautiful twelve-mile drive to one of
+nature's most interesting sights.
+
+"Immediately after leaving town you begin to admire the scenery and
+enjoy the cool, refreshing breezes, wafted from the mountains to the
+north, down the slopes to the arid plains.
+
+"After climbing a gently sloping 'hog-back' for about eight miles, you
+are at the top of the divide and one thousand feet higher than Hot
+Springs, which may be seen on the left. Looking ahead you can see Harney
+Peak, the highest mountain in the Black Hills district; and on the right
+you see Buffalo Gap, through which the creek runs that heads at
+Min-ne-pa-juta Springs. The Indians used to drive buffalo through this
+gap, hence its name. A small but thriving little town to the eastward
+takes its name from this Buffalo Gap. From here you begin to go down a
+gentle and winding incline to the cave, which is reached all too soon.
+
+"At the office you register and procure tickets, and then have from
+one-half to three-quarters of an hour in which to eat lunch or dine at
+the hotel. Then all congregate in the office, from whence the start is
+made, after every one has put on a cave cap, _not a suit, as such is
+entirely unnecessary_. The guide leads the way to the entrance of the
+cave which is separated from the office by some little distance, and is
+located in the bed of a long since dry run, which in former times has
+bared the carboniferous strata, and within this kind of rock the cave is
+found.
+
+"As the author has asked me for an article descriptive of the cave, I
+will only attempt to say something of our medium length route to the
+Fair Grounds, or in other words, the Fair Grounds' Route. A collective
+description of the whole cave would take months--even years--to
+complete. Besides, the above route is the one most used by visitors at
+the present time.
+
+"On entering the Cave House (a log structure) you will in all
+probability ask from whence comes the murmur of a waterfall. The guide
+answers that it is the rushing current of air at the mouth of the cave,
+sometimes in and sometimes out. Prof. J.E. Todd, in bulletin No. 1, S.
+Dakota Geological Survey, p. 48, says: 'This phenomenon is found to
+correspond with the varying pressure of the barometer, and with its
+single opening and capacious chambers is easily accounted for.'
+
+"The rushing air is sometimes strong enough to require a man's weight to
+open the entrance door. Five days and nights is the longest time the
+wind has been known to move in one direction without ceasing. This is
+one of nature's greatest atmospherical phenomena.
+
+"Some one says, 'Tickets, please!' and into the hole we go, single file
+down a lighted passageway to where we can light our candles. After
+descending about one hundred and fifty-five feet we come into the Bridal
+Chamber (named by some of the earlier explorers before the present
+management took hold of the property), which is eight or ten feet in
+length by twenty feet in breadth. Passing along some distance, the
+Snow-ball Room is entered. It carries this name on account of little
+rosettes of carbonate of lime sticking to the irregular ceiling. This
+room is pretty narrow and some fifty feet in length.
+
+"The Post Office is next and soon reached. The ceiling is covered with
+the box work formation somewhat resembling Post Office boxes. You will
+no doubt wonder why it carries such a common name.
+
+"Just because after searching in what books on geology and other
+sciences we could get, we could not find it described nor any formation
+resembling it; hence its common name, as we have named the pop-corn
+work, frost work etc., from their appearance.
+
+"The dimensions of the Post Office are some eighty feet in length by
+twenty feet in width, with an average ceiling height of probably twelve
+feet. Red Hall is the room next in order, and has on either side a red
+bank of sandy, micaceous clay.
+
+"Just to the left is a very pretty little grotto of box work. This room
+is very odd in make-up. The floor is very rough and dips about fifteen
+feet in its length of sixty feet, and includes a short flight of stairs.
+The lowest end of the room is prettily decorated, and some pleasing
+blends of color attract the eye. To the left is the Old Maids' Grotto, a
+pretty little nook that would please any maid old or young.
+
+"After passing through the White Room we turn to the left along the
+crevice, and after traveling some little distance reach The Grand Opera,
+a very narrow room but some forty feet in length. Chopin's Nocturne is a
+small grotto in the right hand wall named by the famous violinist,
+Edouard Remenji.
+
+"The Devil's Lookout is reached by a few steps. It is a crevice about
+ten feet wide at the base and sixty-five feet in height. This place is
+remarkable for its columns of rock just over head. The pathway leads to
+Milton's Study, some fifty feet distant. Turning into the crevice again,
+some twenty feet are traveled when attention is called to Seal Rocks.
+Sampson's Palace is the next room in order: here we see some stalagmitic
+water formation on the left wall and the ceiling is one of the most
+beautiful yet seen on the trip.
+
+"We pass along to Swiss Scenery, a very prettily decorated room fifty
+feet in length by fifteen in height. The box work is very pretty,
+shading from yellow to dark brown. The general appearance of the room
+would suggest its name, it being rougher than any other in the immediate
+vicinity. Passing under an arch we enter the Queen's Drawing-room. Here
+the box work has been developed beyond any on our pathway thus far. From
+the ceiling it hangs like draperies and on the left wall is about
+twenty-four inches in depth. On the whole this room is elegant enough
+for the most exacting queen. We step from this room into the M.E.
+Church. Rev. Mr. Hancher, President of the Black Hills Methodist
+College, was I believe the first to hold song and prayer service in this
+room; the pulpit is on the left as you pass through. The guides always
+ask if any wish to sing or worship, as any one has a perfect right in a
+dedicated Chapel.
+
+"The Giant's Causeway is only a few steps beyond. This bit of scenery
+has some resemblance to the famed basalt attraction on the coast of
+Ireland. We 'duck' our heads under the Arch of Politeness and rise to a
+standing position in Lena's Arbor, a very irregular shaped room admired
+by a great many of our visitors.
+
+"We enter Capitol Hall at the side, about midway between the ends. It is
+the largest room yet visited, being some two hundred feet from end to
+end, with a very high ceiling. Here we notice the walls and ceiling are
+bare of box work and other formation, and are clean and white. The
+decorative appearance exceeds any room yet visited. After getting into
+line again we go down a flight of stairs to Odd Fellows' Hall, a chamber
+that on examination suggests its name. In the ceiling is situated the
+'All seeing eye,' one of the emblems of that august body, and at a
+little distance the 'Three links;' also in the ceiling, and just under
+the latter is situated a rock very much resembling a goat. Attention is
+called to the first appearance of pop-corn work, a very peculiar
+formation resembling pop-corn after it has broken open, and in this part
+of the cave it is quite plentiful.
+
+"We now descend another flight of stairs into Turtle Pass, where a large
+turtle rests beside the path, and just beyond is the Confederate
+Cross-roads, where the fissure is crossed by another forming a cross
+with perfect right angles. The right hand passage is used for specimens
+only; straight ahead leads to the Garden of Eden, the end of our
+shortest route; we take the left hand path and journey through Summer
+Avenue, some seventy feet in length, and reach the Scenes of Wiclow, a
+large and high room, beautifully decorated with box work and pop-corn.
+The ceiling and the left wall from floor to ceiling are fine box work.
+On the right you see dark space, as a very large portion of this room is
+unused, but we pass the Piper's Pig. List! The guide is pounding on the
+Salvation Army Drum, a large projecting rock that on being struck with
+the closed hand gives a sound very much like a bass drum.
+
+"After walking across a short plank we enter Kimball's Music Hall, a
+very beautiful room settled between two crevices and lined with box
+work. Viewing the ceiling from the fissure on the right it is seen to
+be smooth and fringed with pop-corn. In some places the boxes are
+closed, resembling finished honey-comb. Over head box work can be seen
+as high as the light penetrates. On the whole, I think this is the
+finest crevice in the explored cave.
+
+"Looking straight ahead you wonder how the party can travel over such a
+road as presents itself to view, but the guide turns into an arch in the
+right hand wall and enters Whitney Avenue. After walking across the
+bridge over shadowy depths, our pathway lies for some fifty feet in one
+of the most interesting ovens in the cave, at the end of which we enter
+Monte Cristo's Palace by going down a flight of stairs. This room has
+the greatest depth beneath the surface of any of the Fair Grounds'
+Route, which is four hundred and fifty feet. In this room is noticed a
+decided change in the box work, which is much heavier than any seen, or
+that will be seen on this route, and the color is light blue.
+
+"I guess I will give the party a talk while we rest under Monte Cristo's
+Diamonds, a very sparkling cluster, about six inches in diameter, of
+silica crystals.
+
+"After studying the cave, it appears that it did not form in the same
+manner as most others; on account of the absence of sink holes, the
+regular arrangement of the chambers, the regular dip of the rock to the
+south-east from five to ten degrees, and the regularity of the long
+vertical fissures running north-west south-east. In fact, the whole cave
+is made up of these fissures and it seems that the water has entered
+narrow crevices opened by some eruptive force.
+
+"You see small holes eaten in the ceilings and walls in every direction,
+which indicates that the water came from a higher level, and being under
+great pressure, wanted passage out. It seems the cave was a reservoir
+for a long time, then after the water stopped flowing in it slowly
+receded, and in settling the overcharged waters covered the rocks and
+specimens with a calcareous coating, very thin in the upper portions of
+the cave and getting thicker the deeper you go, giving evidence as you
+see, of slowly settling. Had the waters rushed out they would in all
+probability have left the rocks uncoated as in all other caves, with one
+exception, the Crystal Cave, some seventy-five miles to the north of
+Wind Cave.
+
+"As we have some more caves to see we must journey on.
+
+"Taking one last look at Monte Cristo's Diamonds we pass into Milliner's
+Avenue, a very pretty avenue indeed with nearly as many colors as a
+milliner's show-window would present. About mid-way of this avenue we
+cross the bridge over Castle Garden, a room in the eighth tier beneath
+the surface. From this avenue we step into the Assembly Room. Here the
+formations are covered with a gypsum crystal that sparkles with
+wonderful brilliancy. On the right is a passage leading to the Masonic
+Temple, a room that any body of Masons would be proud of could they hold
+lodge meetings in it. The passage on the left is the terminus of the
+Pearly Gates' Route, the longest developed route in the cave. After
+moving along some distance we see the Bad Lands, and then come into the
+Tennis Court. This room has the net in the ceiling and I suppose the
+party can furnish the raquet (racket). On the right hand side of this
+room there is tier upon tier of box work; looking to the left, you
+shudder at the almost bottomless pit just beside the pathway. Here we
+take a rest preparatory to climbing up to the Marble Quarry, a task of
+two flights of stairs. This is a very large room and has the most uneven
+floor, ceiling and walls of any that our visitors see, and is barren of
+specimens excepting in the first part over the stairs where there is
+some box work of very pretty structure and color. Some distance up the
+path we see on one side the Ghost of 'She,' and on the other the Devil's
+Punch Bowl, a large rock with a basin-shaped hole about thirty-six
+inches across and sixteen inches deep, but lo! the bottom has been
+broken out: which is very appropriate as South Dakota is at present a
+prohibition state. A winding path is followed until attention is called
+to the Sheep's Head above an arch over the passage, and the ceiling here
+is of flint, the ledge of which is four inches thick.
+
+"Passing under the arch we enter Johnstone's Camp Ground, so named
+because Paul Alexander Johnstone camped in this room while accomplishing
+the third of his greatest mind-reading feats, during which he remained
+in the cave seventy-two hours. He was locked in his room at the Evans
+Hotel while a committee secreted the head of a gold pin in the cave. On
+their return, after being blindfolded, he led them to the livery stable,
+and securing a team drove to the cave and found the pin in the Standing
+Rock Chamber, beyond the Pearly Gates, and then drove back to the city
+still blindfolded.
+
+"Down one short flight of stairs and we are in the Waiting Room, so
+called on account of persons waiting here while the rest of their party
+finished the trip by climbing up the Alpine Way. This difficult climb
+was made until the route was developed via the Marble Quarry. A steep
+pathway and one flight of stairs now bring us to the Ticket Office, and
+another short stairway leads into the room above, which is the Fair
+Grounds. We enter the right wing, which measures two hundred and six
+links in length and forty-nine in width at the narrowest place. We are
+now in the third level and no box work is seen, but the ceiling (which
+is low) shows many interesting fossils. The central dome is some fifty
+feet in height, and passing to the right the guide seats the party in
+such a position that the frost work on the wall can be seen to
+advantage. This is the largest part of the Fair Grounds and measures six
+hundred and forty-five links long, exclusive of the right wing, and has
+a width of fifty-three links, which with a number of wings added, makes
+it one of the largest under-ground rooms within American caverns.
+
+"A great many visitors look at their cuff-buttons when told we have
+twenty-five hundred rooms included in ninety-seven miles of passageways.
+Of course they do not understand how we get the mileage. In going to the
+Fair Grounds we travel about three miles. In each fissure there are
+eight levels, which makes twenty-four miles of cave from the entrance to
+the Fair Grounds.
+
+"Of the formations in the cave, the different kinds are on different
+levels, the stalactites and stalagmites nearest the surface on the
+second, the frost work on the third. This formation is in most instances
+as colorless as snow. The mode of its formation is not thoroughly
+understood, but is found in such positions as suggest its being formed
+by vapors overcharged as spoken of about the water. It is almost always
+on an over-hanging rock, over or near some fissure leading to a deeper
+portion of the cave. Box work in this level is scattering and fragile:
+in the fourth it is the prevailing formation: in the fifth it is heavier
+and a little darker; in the sixth it varies in style and color, and
+pop-corn appears, a queer formation resembling pop-corn ready to eat. It
+is not so purely white here as in the lower levels, seventh and eighth.
+In the seventh the box work is heavier than any seen on the Fair
+Grounds' Route and the color is nearly blue, having a faded appearance.
+In this tier is also found a good deal of mineral wool, which must not
+be mistaken for asbestos. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen
+inches and at one place where it seems to come out of a hole two inches
+in diameter, and drops down like a grey beard, we have named it Noah's
+Beard.
+
+"In the eighth tier we find very beautiful formations of carbonate of
+lime, and the box work is decidedly blue, the boxes larger, and their
+partitions one half inch thick.
+
+"We have been deeper than the eighth tier but in narrow crevices barely
+admitting a man of average stature. In these the calcareous coating is
+much thicker than in any higher portions of the cave, but very little
+sign of box work is seen.
+
+"Sometimes we make a comparison between the cave and a sponge. Take for
+instance a sponge as large as an apple barrel and there would be holes
+in it as big as a man's thumb and closed hand. Now take a sponge, four
+miles square and five hundred feet deep with holes in proportion to the
+little sponge, and you have an illustration of The Wonderful Wind Cave,
+of Custer County, South Dakota."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+WIND CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+PEARLY GATES AND BLUE GROTTO ROUTE.
+
+A very much longer, more beautiful, and also more difficult journey than
+the one just described may be taken by those in whom the desire to see
+is greater than the fear of fatigue, or possibly, some little danger.
+With this object in view the Fair Grounds' Route is followed through
+Monte Cristo's Palace and into Milliner's Avenue. Here we leave it by
+dropping off the bridge into a rough hole, which proves to be a passage
+descending into Castle Garden directly beneath the Avenue, and a room of
+considerable size, plentifully supplied with bowlders. Although
+interesting to visit, it has no points of such special merit as would
+seem to require a detailed account, the main importance attaching to it
+being the fact that it is the first portion of the eighth level visited.
+A little beyond, however, is something quite new. The floor is covered
+with a light yellow crust of calcite crystal, sufficiently strong to
+bear the weight of a limited number of guests without much fracture. It
+generally gives a hollow sound when struck, which is easily accounted
+for as there are small holes noticed by which steam evidently made its
+escape, and through these cavities can be seen but they are shallow. One
+place shows the crust broken up and with the edges of the pieces
+overlapped, like ice broken by a sudden rise of back-water, and in this
+position they have been firmly cemented.
+
+This is where the slowly receding waters of the cave lingered in shallow
+pools above the small crevices long after the main portions had become
+dry. That the crust was formed on top of the water, instead of beneath
+its surface, has been proved by the only body of water now standing in
+the cave. This is called Silent Lake, and being situated on another
+route will be described in its proper place, but when discovered no
+water was visible nor its presence even suspected until the crust gave
+way under the weight of an explorer. The thin sheet of yellow calcite
+crystal thus broken was the same as that seen in great abundance in the
+now perfectly dry eighth level. The gradually decreasing volume of water
+has left a smooth yellow coat on portions of the walls where
+irregularities or slopes were favorable, and at least one such place is
+vividly remembered if once seen. A steep incline of about fifteen feet
+leads to a small oval hole through the wall; towards this we crawled
+with no great ease; but getting to the hole was far easier than going
+through it into a tiny cubby not high enough to sit comfortably upright
+in, and too small to permit an average sized human being to turn around.
+Close on the left it is shut in by another wall pierced by two holes
+similar to that just passed, and each revealing a miniature chamber
+scarcely more than three feet in either direction and eighteen inches
+high. Being directed to examine the ceiling of the first, it was done
+with some difficulty and much satisfaction, for there in the center was
+a most exquisite bit of art work, a circular disk of "drusy" quartz
+about twelve inches in diameter and having the appearance of a flat
+rosette of fine black lace, in open pattern with small diamonds thickly
+strung on every thread; a brilliant, sparkling mass of gems. After Mr.
+McDonald had carefully removed a geode from the other little chamber, he
+slid down into a fourth, the last of the diminutive suite, having
+sufficient height to allow a sitting posture with raised head, and
+opened the small jewel case, while I examined the place it came from.
+Here all was calcite crystal heavily massed in various forms, and a
+harmony of blue and brown, with half a dozen round, unbroken, perfect
+geodes hanging from the ceiling like oriole nests. The geode taken
+proved on opening to be especially fine, being filled with pearly white
+calcite crystals of both the dog-tooth and nail-head forms, and was
+kindly presented to be added to the collection of cave specimens already
+purchased in town, to which were also added handsome pieces of "drusy"
+quartz, cave coral, and tufa and mineral wool.
+
+Following the guide I now slipped down into the larger nook just
+vacated, and saw with considerable chagrin that the next step was down a
+perpendicular wall more than ten feet in height, facing a high, narrow
+fissure, the floor of which was merely two shelves sloping to an open
+space along the middle, almost two feet wide, with the darkness of
+continuing crevice below. Further progress seemed absolutely impossible.
+All things are, however, possible to those who will, and it had been
+willed to pay a visit to the grandest portion of Wind Cave. In order to
+do so the descent must be made and was. Then some little distance must
+be traveled along the crevice, but the angle of elevation taken by both
+sides of the bisected floor served as a sort of prohibitory tax together
+with the calcite paving, since to maintain an upright position on such a
+surface would require long training of a certain professional character.
+That difficulty, too, was overcome by placing a foot on either side of
+the open crevice; the first consideration, of course, being safety and
+not grace.
+
+We now came to the enjoyment of the reward of merit. Flooded with the
+brilliant white light of magnesium ribbon, the crevice walls could be
+seen drawing together at a height of sixty-five feet, and both composed
+entirely of larger box work than any seen before and very heavily
+covered with calcite crystal, colored a bright electric blue and glowing
+with a pearly lustre. This is the Centennial Gallery, and leaving it
+with reluctance we passed on into the Blue Grotto to find it finer
+still. It is somewhat wider and higher, while even the extremely rough,
+uneven floor shows no spot bare of heavy box work of a yet deeper blue.
+
+The wonderful beauty of this Blue Grotto necessarily stands beyond
+comparison because in all the known world there is nothing like it. The
+forms of crystal are chiefly aragonite.
+
+From here we pass to the "Chamber de Norcutt," which would be considered
+a very handsome room if it had no superiors: and the same can be said of
+Union College, in which, however, is the Fan Rock to claim special
+notice; an immense piece of fallen box work shaped like a lady's fan
+half opened.
+
+An imposing vestibule leads into the extensive but rather dreary
+Catacombs, from which we crawled through a little hole into the M.W.A.
+Hall, emerging at the top of a steep but not high slope covered with the
+smooth yellow crust of calcite encountered at other places, and in
+trying to make a dexterous turn so as to go down feet first, the
+descent was accomplished with uncalculated suddenness and an unsought
+but liberal collection of bruises. This, however, was not a happening of
+the unexpected and could have no attention amid scenes of wonder and
+beauty, and we were close to the Geysers. From a scientific point of
+view this is the most important portion of the cave, for here is an
+indisputable proof that the water in the cave was hot and that it was
+subject to geyser action. The surrounding region is covered with the
+crust already described, and at the top of a gentle elevation is thrown
+up in the unmistakable form of geyser cones; there being two near
+together on the surface described, with a third visible through one of
+these on a slightly lower level, this one being a new discovery, as it
+had escaped observation until we called attention to it.
+
+These small cones show that after the degree of heat and the volume of
+water had become reduced to the merest fraction of their former
+greatness, they continued their accustomed work here in the depth of the
+earth long after the once grand old geyser had ceased to show an outward
+sign of life. When the water finally became so reduced even here that
+the steam could no longer force it through, or to these latest vents,
+the last rising vapors fringed their edges with a beautiful snow-white
+border of crystallized carbonate of lime as fine and soft as a band of
+swan's down, which it resembles. In the pure, still atmosphere of the
+eighth level, almost five hundred feet beneath the entrance, this silent
+proof of ancient action will endure for the admiration and instruction
+of many generations yet to come. Few mortals will ever be honored with
+memorials so lasting or so convincing of vanished power.
+
+Proceeding on the journey the next chamber is the A.O.U.W. Hall, a
+large, irregular room, by the rise of which a return to the seventh
+level is accomplished; and the next entered is the Tabernacle, not at
+all resembling the last, although a similar description would be
+correct.
+
+Now is reached what many consider the cave's greatest charm, The Pearly
+Gates. And marvelously beautiful it certainly is.
+
+Approaching by a slightly lower level, we see a gateway opening between
+large rocks that light up with the soft lustre and varied tints of
+mammoth pearls. A wonderful effect is produced by the white calcite
+crystal spread in unequal thickness over the dark surface of the
+encrusted rocks. Just without the gate is a short but not golden
+stairway leading to it, and immediately within is the Saint's Rest, a
+chamber of moderate size beautified by another great rock on which are
+combined the warm, pearly glow of calcite and the cold glitter of frost
+by the later addition of lime carbonate vapor-crystals to the calcium
+carbonate aragonite.
+
+Next beyond is the chamber containing the Standing Rock behind which Mr.
+Johnstone made his famous discovery of the concealed pin-head. It is an
+immense great fallen rock on whose dark surface are scattered
+transparent flake-like crystals of satin spar, resembling the congealed
+drops of a summer shower. The mind-reader entered the chamber by the way
+we shall leave it.
+
+Returning to the spot from which the Pearly Gates were first viewed, we
+stand facing the most beautiful of this imposing group of brilliant
+scenes, The Mermaid's Resort. This is a small cove with wave marks in
+the white beach sand, above which rises a projecting, sheltering cliff
+as purely white as freshly fallen snow, with a fine deposit of frost
+work in thick moss-like patterns two and three inches deep.
+
+This crystalline mass, so white and fragile, has to perfection the
+appearance of hoar-frost about a steam-vent in extremely cold weather,
+and was, no doubt, formed in a somewhat similar manner. It is
+crystallized carbonate of lime, and could have been deposited in such
+extremely delicate forms only by the heavily charged vapors rising from
+hot water. No one needs to be told that hot water will take and hold in
+solution a much larger quantity of solid matter than is possible to cold
+water, with all other conditions the same; nor is it news that a portion
+of the solid substance is carried off in the rising steam. Now the
+geyser cones, so recently visited on the next lower level, prove both
+the heat of the water and its heavy charge of solids, which gave it a
+far more intense heat than pure water could have equaled, and this in
+turn drove the steam to greater distances than otherwise it would have
+reached. When cooled to such a point as to be reduced to a light vapor,
+its movement was checked by various walls, projections, and ceiling as
+were in its upward path, and these received the minute particles of
+burden, while the somewhat brisk motion of the atmosphere, occasioned at
+these points by the mixing of that of higher temperature from below with
+the lower from above, is responsible for the dainty and varied forms
+assumed by the fragile structure.
+
+Once more resuming the journey, we admire the rugged charms of
+University Heights, a somewhat larger and higher room than the next, St.
+Dominic's Chamber, but perhaps not more interesting than the Council
+Chamber, which besides other attractions is to some extent also a
+Statuary Hall. From the Council Chamber the Alpine Way leads up into the
+Fair Grounds directly above. This Alpine Way is a sort of cork-screw
+twisting through the rocks, not unlike a badly walled well, assisted at
+the lowest portion by a short and nearly perpendicular ladder. Next is
+the Assembly Room, or Crown Chamber, as it is also called on account of
+a handsome crown conspicuously placed. This room also contains a Moose
+so perfectly carved that the skeptic who searches diligently for
+imperfections finally clamors for the whole company to celebrate his
+discovery of the artist's noble skill.
+
+Leaving this room we re-enter Milliner's Avenue and soon cross the
+bridge from which, a few hours ago, we descended into the eighth level
+by way of Castle Garden; and now the return to the surface is by the
+route followed before, and we arrive there at last terribly weary, but
+more than well pleased.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+WIND CAVE CONCLUDED.
+
+
+GARDEN OF EDEN, THE GLACIER, AND ICE PALACE.
+
+There is yet another long and charming line of travel open to those who
+have sufficiently steady heads and light feet to suffer no loss of
+confidence or depression of spirit when mounting the steep stairway
+whose limit seems lost in the dark distance above.
+
+There being but the single entrance, a repetition of the worn and
+ancient statement that all roads lead to Rome, means that many journeys
+may be taken in Wind Cave, but all must have the same beginning.
+
+In the tourist season the guides have not time during the day to bring
+out specimens to supply the demand, so on this account night trips are
+of frequent occurrence; and on these occasions the number of persons in
+all that vast space seldom exceeds half a dozen, but their voices and
+laughter, and the blows of their hammers, can be heard at greater
+distances than would seem possible, and give an agreeable sense of
+companionship; yet the voice does not travel by any means so far as in
+other caves.
+
+The evening we were to make the long trip just mentioned, our guide
+being ready before any others had gone in, we started the advance on the
+ninety-seven miles of enclosed, unoccupied space and had almost reached
+the level of the Bridal Chamber when he remembered a forgotten and
+necessary roll of magnesium ribbon, for which it was needful to return
+to the office in the upper building. I sat down on the lowest step of
+the great stairway to wait, and for a very short time was entirely alone
+in the largest cavern in the world, excepting the Mammoth Cave of
+Kentucky.
+
+The unexpected experience seemed suddenly to become one of the great
+events of a lifetime, and was unmarred by the disturbing apprehensions
+of any possible danger. The entire absence of sound was indescribably
+awe-inspiring as
+
+    "Strata overleaping strata from the center to the crust,
+    Rose, Alp-high, in molten silence, as the dead rise from the dust;"
+
+but the feeling of complete isolation from the living world would not
+require an unlimited time to merit the one word--horrible. Even some
+peril with ample companionship would be more agreeable, while it is a
+curious fact that the combination of companionship with silence is
+charming. On the occasion of one visit to the cave it was painful to
+observe the actual suffering of a lover of quiet, from the
+good-natured, but heedless, chatter of two of the party.
+
+Presently steps on the stairs broke the stillness, a glimmer of light
+pierced the intense darkness that surrounded the circle of one candle,
+and the upper world seemed not so far away.
+
+The interrupted journey was resumed, the route being that already
+described as far as the Confederate Cross Roads, where, this time, we go
+straight on in the main fissure instead of turning into the
+cross-crevice, as was done before.
+
+We were overtaken by the specimen party and recognized the three
+laughing young girls only by their voices, as in full suits of overalls
+and white duck caps, they looked like boys. Those who reside near the
+large caves have overcome their objection to this costume, as it gives
+much greater freedom and ease of movement, besides being a decided
+economy. Feminine garments are so easily destroyed, but for artistic
+effect the substitute cannot conscientiously be recommended.
+
+Beyond the Cross Roads the first chamber is Breckinridge Gallery, a
+long, rambling hall in which are combined the attractions already passed
+and those yet to come, but having no striking feature predominating to
+give special character other than the grandeur of extreme roughness,
+which is also the quality most observed on passing into the Stone
+Quarry, where great accumulations of blocks seem waiting preparation for
+shipment.
+
+The next "open country" is protected from public trespass by the Garden
+Wall, which appears to have been well built in the long ago by masons
+properly trained in their craft, and extends, at a uniform height, to
+the Fallen Flats, where the floor is covered with slabs of enormous size
+that have fallen from the ceiling since water occupation ceased, as is
+clearly shown by the sharp edges and surfaces entirely unworn.
+
+The journey now becomes more interesting as the Cliff-Climbers' Delight
+is reached, and we go steadily up the long nights of stairs until
+visions of St. Peter begin to rise and we wonder which way the key will
+turn. Near the top is a handsome growth of snow-white mold hanging in
+long draperies behind the ladder or spread like on asparagus fern
+flattened against the rock.
+
+Arrived at the top limits of the stairs the ascent is by no means
+finished, but continues through three large chambers known as Five
+Points, the Omaha Bee Office--named by one of the staff of that well
+known journal--and the W.C.T.U. Hall, dedicated to the service of the
+organization by one of its workers.
+
+[Illustration: Top of Glacier. Page 155.]
+
+At last the upward journey is ended at the Silent Lake in the first, or
+highest, level. This, as has already been observed, is the only body of
+water now standing in the cave, and is not more than ten feet long by
+six in width and twelve inches deep. The scanty volume is maintained by
+the very limited inflow of acidulated percolating water which reaches
+the small receiving basin charged with calcium carbonate; and being
+cold, the charge is being precipitated on the bottom instead of forming
+a crust over the surface as in former times when the controlling
+influence was a degree of heat sufficient to sustain solid matter
+without disturbing motion.
+
+Rising above the Silent Lake is the Glacier, its moist surface
+suggesting that the lake is fed by a slight thaw, while the
+perpendicular front at the water's edge gives the impression of a berg
+having recently broken off and floated away.
+
+The Glacier flows between two high walls of dark rock, and the steep
+incline of perhaps seventy feet, covered with a smooth deposit of
+calcite and shining with moisture, has the appearance of ice and is as
+uninviting for a climb. The top is connected with the roof above by a
+group of short, and for this region, heavy columns of dripstone, the
+oldest formation of that character in the cave.
+
+An occasional overflow of the lake passes out to one side, then turns
+and goes under the Glacier where its first few feet of descent are
+called the Pearl Beds, where a variety of water-polished pebbles are
+being coated over and cemented together with calcite crystal.
+
+From the Glacier down to the lowest level of the cave by another route
+than that taken for the ascent, there is abundant evidence that at one
+time this portion of the cave was subject to excessively violent
+activity, and if studied with a view to the penetration of the principle
+of geyser action, offers many interesting and valuable suggestions that
+can be added to and expanded into definite theories in connection with
+the balance of the cave; all important requirements are clearly shown.
+
+At a short distance from the Glacier is a small circular dome, called
+the Picture Gallery, which evidently was shaped by water forced up from
+below. The descent from here takes us into the St. Louis Tunnel, a long
+rough passage leading down into the great Cathedral, by the still
+descending irregularities of which we finally reach the Garden of Eden,
+the objective point of a favorite tourist route, but usually approached
+from the opposite direction. It is a large chamber of very irregular
+shape, with an extremely uneven ceiling, dipping nearly to the floor and
+rising suddenly to distant heights, while every portion of all the
+varied surfaces glitters with a mass of frost work in every form it is
+known to have assumed; the banks of orange buds in different stages of
+expansion being exceptionally handsome. A portion of this wonderful room
+especially admired is Cupid's Alcove, where the frost is tinged with a
+pinkish flush from the brilliant paint clay captured in minute particles
+by the vapors. The whole room is a marvel of loveliness, but
+unfortunately visitors have wrought such noticeable damage that wire
+screening must be placed before the general admittance of large parties
+can be resumed.
+
+Passing out and down to a lower level, by way of Jacob's Well, we find
+the source of that magnificent abundance of frost work to be in the
+Chamber of Forbidden Fruit, where a yellow calcite floor-crust indicates
+the surface level of water diminishing in volume by evaporation long
+after the upward flow had forever ceased, and from which the rising
+vapor ascended to decorate the Garden of Eden, just described. But since
+this water completely disappeared, leaving in evidence only the
+record-bearing crust, a percolating drip has prepared indisputable proof
+of the remote distance of that time by depositing on the crust great
+clusters of luscious fruits, chiefly cherries, which appear to have been
+carelessly tossed down in heaps, but are firmly fixed in place.
+
+The onward journey continues up and down through Beacon Heights, a large
+chamber which imitates Rocky Mountain scenery and terminates at the
+Corkscrew Path which, as the name indicates, is a spiral path winding
+down like a great stairway against the wall of an approximately circular
+chamber which is perhaps the highest in the cave, and shows the most
+violent water-action. The plunging torrent rushed on from here to tear
+out the heavy rock and form the next chamber, known as Dante's Inferno,
+whence, its force being divided, it went more gently in various
+directions. And by one of these passages we now re-enter the main route
+of travel once more, and finally return to the face of the earth,
+wondering if it will be possible to so describe those wonderful scenes
+as to represent with even a limited degree of fairness or justice the
+awe-inspiring grandeur of the entire trip, or the perfection of fragile
+loveliness formed and preserved as by special miracles in the Garden of
+Eden.
+
+One peculiarity of this great journey was that the box work, so abundant
+in other portions of the cave, was here conspicuously absent.
+
+
+THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
+
+Another route in Wind Cave is that to the Crystal Palace which, although
+the shortest, is the one most seldom taken by visitors, because of a
+certain amount of difficulty and discomfort being unavoidable. Only a
+portion of the great stairway below the entrance is descended, when we
+abandon it and climb into a hole in the side-wall of the narrow passage,
+from which point to the end of the trip our feet prove to be merely
+encumbrances.
+
+The space crawled into and through widens sufficiently in several places
+to form chambers of good size, but the height of the ceiling is nowhere
+more than three feet and most of it only two or even less. The rough
+rock floor is partly carpeted with patches of loose moist clay, which is
+the means of our becoming as grimy as tramps, and its source is readily
+accounted for by an examination of the ceiling. This is easily made
+while resting one skinned elbow at the expense of the other. The word
+"abraded" is inadequate where anything approaching real cave study is
+attempted.
+
+The box work of the ceiling has almost entirely lost its
+crystallization, and is as ready to crumble as the enclosed clay, which
+is still retained because it had not yet reached the necessary point of
+deterioration to be carried out before the great volume of water,
+required for that service, retired from this high level of the cave.
+
+When finally reached, the Crystal Palace proved worthy of the effort,
+its decoration being entirely of dripstone and very beautiful, although
+on too small a scale to be compared with similar work in many caves: it
+is merely an attractive "extra" in Wind Cave, and not one of the
+important attractions that give the Cave the rank that may have a few
+equals but no superiors.
+
+The first room is scarcely more than twelve feet in either direction and
+not quite six feet high. The glassy ceiling is thickly studded with
+small stalactites from two to eighteen inches in length, and mostly of
+the hollow "pipe stem" variety, from which the surplus drip rests in
+white masses on the clean floor around a central bowl of good clear
+water.
+
+Down the middle of the wall directly opposite the entrance a rushing
+little white cascade has congealed, and on either side just under the
+ceiling is a hollowed-out nook closely set with short stalactites and
+small columns, all pure white.
+
+Near by but not connected is another room too well filled to permit an
+entrance, but a portion of the wall having been carried out a
+satisfactory view is not denied. Here the floor rises to within three
+feet of the ceiling, and the deposit is much heavier, so that many fine
+columns rise from bases that spread and meet or overlap. If the cave had
+no greater claim to notice than these small drip rooms, it would still
+be worthy of a visit.
+
+The effort to secure flash-light pictures could only be considered
+successful because there are none better to be had.
+
+The atmosphere of Wind Cave is marvelously fresh and pure, and possesses
+in a high degree the invigorating quality which in most caves renders
+unusual exertion not only possible, but agreeable as well. In all the
+chambers and passages there is little change in the quality of the air,
+and thorough tests with a standard thermometer showed the variations on
+the different levels, from the highest to the lowest, to be about 2°;
+but on different days the range was from 45° to 52°. This curious state
+of affairs some one else will have to explain.
+
+The only forms of life ever found in Wind Cave are a small fly and the
+mountain rat.
+
+While visiting the cave, every one connected with it was most kind and
+obliging, especially in showing those beautiful and difficult portions
+that few visitors are so fortunate as to see. While this is very far
+from being a complete description even of the parts visited, it will
+serve to show what a truly grand cavern is located at the south end of
+the Black Hills.
+
+The elevation at Hot Springs is three thousand, four hundred feet, and
+that of the entrance to the cave is four thousand and forty feet. A
+source of disappointment in connection with Wind Cave is that its fine
+scenery cannot be effectively pictured.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE ONYX CAVES.
+
+
+Northwest of Hot Springs there is a group of three onyx caves, the
+distance to them being estimated at from seven to ten miles, if the
+party does not get lost, which is the usual fate of those who dispense
+with the service of a driver familiar with the country. In going, the
+longer way, over the hill-tops, claims a preference on account of
+distant views with a favorable light. When the Onyx Cave Ranch is
+reached its scenery is found to be charming, with an ideal log house
+overlooking the cañon, and itself overlooked by the rising slope of the
+wooded hill. The entrance to the cave is in the opposite wall of the
+cañon, and is covered by a small cabin, at the door of which the view
+demands a pause for admiration; then the party disappears down a narrow,
+rough, sloping passage of sufficient height for comfort to none but know
+the value of comparative degrees. It soon appeared, however, that
+personal comfort would travel only a short distance. The mud increased
+with every step, and in its midst was a small hole through which it was
+necessary to pass to the next lower level. This hole being so small and
+its walls slanting, the only way to accomplish the first half of the
+descent was to sit down in the mud and slide, stopping half way to
+examine a fine ledge of beautiful striped onyx, white and a brownish
+pink, the first outcrop in the cave, but in the next level it is seen in
+rich abundance and variety; the colors being red, black and white, brown
+in several shades and pure white. All are handsome and of commercial
+quality and hardness; and just above them is a ledge of fine blue
+marble.
+
+The next chamber is called the Bad Lands, on account of a certain
+resemblance to that desolate region. The way into it is through the
+Devil's Corkscrew, a most uninviting passage because it stands on end
+and is about twelve feet deep with circular, perpendicular walls
+discouragingly free of prominent irregularities; but careful study
+reveals a few available crags and rough edges, by which the descent is
+made. Fortunately the party decreased in size just within the entrance.
+Climbing up into a hole in the wall of this room, with no little
+difficulty, the Aerial Lake is the reward of a breathless upward
+struggle, and a satisfying one. The Lake is very small, but under its
+clear surface can be seen numerous growing deposits of calcite, while
+the roof of onyx gleams with a mass of small white stalactites.
+
+Returning again to the main route and traveling to the end of a short
+passage we beheld the entrance to Red Hall, a piece of rope ladder
+dangling half way down a perpendicular wall, the other half having no
+help whatever. The way was clear so far as the length of the ladder, and
+with trust in the future soon learned in cave work that distance was at
+once passed, and sitting on the very narrow ledge to cogitate on the
+possibility of further progress, Mr. Sidey solved the problem by
+suggesting, rather doubtfully, that the easiest way would be to drop off
+and allow him to interrupt the fall. This method had twice proved the
+only means of advance in Wind Cave and can be termed rapid transit. The
+walls of Red Hall are of stratified limestone variegated with patches of
+red rock, and clay of the same gay hue. It is the highest chamber in the
+cave and probably the largest. A hole in the wall at the floor level,
+near the entrance to the passage beyond, gives a glimpse of the cave
+river flowing on a slightly lower level, not over two feet below the
+floor we stand on. The water is said to have a depth of fifteen feet,
+and a rock thrown in gave back the sound of a splash into water not
+shallow. Entering the passage already referred to, its dimensions
+decreased to a crawl and then to a squeeze, so that most of its length
+was taken in a very humble position, which permitted no regard to be
+paid to the ample mud or little pools of water that must be serenely
+dragged through as if carrying them away were an agreeable privilege.
+Even a muddy passage ends in time, and at last we gained a standing
+point and after a short climb were in Fairies' Palace, a marvel of
+dainty beauty, and worthy of the distasteful trip just taken. We stood
+in a narrow passage that divided the small chamber like the central
+aisle of a cathedral, above which the white roof formed a Gothic arch
+from which depended countless little stalactites and draperies, while on
+either side, six feet above the passage, was a floor of onyx supporting
+exquisite columns of which the highest are not more than three feet.
+Only a short distance from the Fairies' Palace is the almost equally
+beautiful Ethereal Hall, and connecting the two I had the pleasure to
+discover a small arched passage more beautiful than either.
+
+[Illustration: Fairies' Palace. Page 165.]
+
+Although much of the cave was still not visited, the long drive to town
+demanded a return to the surface, but several stops were made on the way
+to admire masses of onyx and groups of curious forms in deposits of that
+fine stone. One high, crooked chimney above the Corkscrew is especially
+fine and correspondingly difficult for a grown person weighted down with
+garments dripping mud and water; but Kimball Stone, our boy friend,
+scampered up like a squirrel.
+
+Two of the Onyx Caves had not been seen at all and Mr. Sidey expressed
+special regret on account of the latest discovery as no woman had ever
+yet entered it; but the sun was low in the west and the road had some
+dangerous points that must be passed before dark, so the reeking skirt
+was removed and without waiting to dry by the great fire kindled for the
+purpose we hurried off, promising to return if possible, and carrying
+treasures in specimens, besides an ancient lemon, which may not be
+called a fossil, since soft substances are said not to fossilize; but
+however that may be, this is a perfect lemon whose particles have been
+replaced with the lasting rock in the same way as the numerous Cycad
+trunks in the same region have been preserved to prove to us
+conclusively that formerly the region flourished under tropical
+conditions, and supported an abundant animal life of tropical nature and
+habits.
+
+Soon after leaving the ranch, we descended by a sort of goat-trail-road
+into a grandly beautiful cañon, along the bed of which the road
+continues until it flows out as the water did in ages gone. By this time
+it had become quite dark, and the chill of the northwest night formed a
+combination with saturated clothing that cannot be highly recommended as
+a pleasure; but the natural chivalry which prompted our young escort to
+insist on lending his own coat, and his evident disappointment that the
+sacrifice was not allowed, afforded a pleasure that will continue.
+
+
+THE WHITE ONYX CAVE.
+
+A few days later it was convenient to return to the Onyx Cave ranch with
+the special object of entering the newest cave, which could be done with
+the assistance of seventy feet of rope. While necessary preparations
+were pending, a walk up the cañon was proposed. At a distance of perhaps
+a quarter of a mile above Onyx Cave evidence was seen of a very
+remarkable form of ancient life. It is not the usual few bones but is a
+cast in the rock of the cañon bed of an animal clothed in its flesh. The
+appearance of the head, neck, body and wings is preserved, but the tail
+and four limbs have been carried away by eroding waters which even now
+have not quite forsaken the cañon. The containing stratum is not seen in
+the cañon wall, and near the lower end of the cañon a fine white
+sandstone crops out beneath. We ask: "Was the cañon cut to its full
+depth while yet a Cretaceous sea was depositing beach-sand, and did the
+earliest horse, with wings, appear at the close of that period? Or, did
+an animal with fore limbs developed, retain its wings into Miocene time
+and leave record of its life in an arm of the Tertiary lake?" The body
+is that of a horse with wings attached to the shoulders. The head is
+unlike that of a modern horse, being much shorter and more rounded, but
+the parted lips give a glimpse of the teeth of a young horse. If only
+the feet could be found, I feel assured they would prove that the
+three-toed horse of ancient time, so abundantly in evidence throughout
+this region, was possessed of wings and in some way furnished the idea
+of Pegasus.
+
+A few feet further down the cañon are a pair of twisted wings that show
+the animal to have perished in company with its mate, while trying to
+escape from a sudden flood that rushed down the cañon like a moving
+wall.
+
+After some uneasy discussion about the means of entering the new cave,
+it was finally decided that the available rope was too short and not of
+sufficient strength. This was, of course, a disappointment but not a
+surprise, as a very peculiar quality in the rope used to enter caves of
+this kind had come to notice before. The peculiarity is, that a rope
+entirely above suspicion for the safety of a two hundred pound man, at
+once weakens and must be condemned when threatened with one hundred
+pounds of woman's weight, yet there is an implied compliment hidden
+somewhere about this protective system that tends to reduce the sting of
+disappointment.
+
+So it was agreed to spend the afternoon in the White Onyx Cave, which is
+generally spoken of simply as the Upper Cave because it occupies a
+higher level than the Onyx Cave already described, and is supposed to be
+an extension of the same although no connecting passage has been
+discovered.
+
+The accompanying friend had not been costumed for caving, but was
+persuaded to accept a full suit of overalls, which needed the addition
+of a pick and pipe to make the picture perfect. Unfortunately a snap
+shot failed.
+
+The entrance is in a perpendicular portion of the cañon wall, but a
+narrow path that starts some distance away and appears in eminent danger
+of falling off, makes most of the ascent comparatively easy; and the
+balance is completed by a short ladder whose rounds dip toward the cañon
+bed in a rather alarming manner, but this only proves the folly of
+giving too much heed to appearances, for it is strong and firmly
+fastened to the rocks.
+
+Just within the entrance there is height sufficient for standing, but
+the roof descends suddenly and the walls come near together, reducing
+the passage to a crawl, and showing that in past times water poured in
+at this opening and not out as might be supposed. The first chamber
+entered is the Crystal Gallery, but it is so nearly filled with great
+masses of pure white onyx no standing room remains. Drops of water on
+portions of the onyx ceiling here are the only moisture remaining in
+this cave. When Mac's[5] head came in contact with the roof he called to
+the guide: "See here, little boy, you ought to sing out 'low bridge' at
+that sort o' places, 'cause when I'm busy hunting a spot to set my foot
+in, I can't see what my head's coming to, and I like to mined a lot o'
+this rock with it."
+
+Slowly, and with no danger and less comfort, we creep over, under and
+between great massive beds of the fine white crystalline rock until at
+length we enter the Ghost Chamber where no onyx has been deposited, but
+where numerous mountain rats have evidently been at home for many years,
+if we may judge from the enormous quantity of pine needles with which
+they have carpeted the floor. The walls show small box work crumbling to
+dust, and Ray climbed high into the chimney-like opening above our
+heads, but reported that it ended suddenly and had no attractions to
+offer.
+
+Coming out, the way was somewhat varied, but more difficult, as the
+passages through the onyx beds were more irregular and more nearly
+closed; Onyx Hall being only a fair specimen of the marvelous results
+achieved here by the persistent regularity of an uninterrupted but slow
+drip, continued through hundreds of years.
+
+[Illustration: White Onyx Masses. Page 170.]
+
+[Illustration: Looking out of White Onyx Cave. Page 171.]
+
+It is surprising that in all these heavy beds there is no line or
+tint, or slightest trace of color anywhere, while the other Onyx Cave,
+so near as to suggest connection, has a gorgeous variety of rich
+coloring.
+
+The view looking out from the entrance of White Onyx Cave is wonderfully
+fine, and equally so whether the rain falls or the sun shines, a timely
+shower giving us an opportunity to enjoy both.
+
+Before leaving the ranch, a promise was made by Mr. Sidey to write a
+short description of the other cave, which he kindly did, and it is here
+given. He says:
+
+"In trailing a deer I came across a hole on top of a long divide. On
+throwing a rock down the opening, I could hear it rattling against the
+walls until the sounds gradually died away, but there seemed to be no
+bottom to the hole, and I resolved to come again prepared and make
+explorations. After the snow had gone my twelve-year-old son, Ray, and
+I, mounted on our trusty horses, Bonnie and Dee, equipped with ropes,
+candles, hammers and a pocketful of matches, set out to explore the new
+cave. It was a beautiful, bright spring morning, and after an hour's
+hard climbing over fallen timber and rocks, we reached the summit of the
+mountain. A search of half an hour revealed the opening which was barely
+large enough to allow me to pass through.
+
+"Fastening our ropes securely to a stout log rolled across the chasm, we
+began to pay it out, and although we did not feel it touch bottom, I
+started down to explore, the length of the rope at least. As I descended
+I found the opening gradually widened out to eight or ten feet, a sort
+of inverted funnel-shaped hole with irregular wall but smooth and
+affording little footing. As I neared the bottom I saw the end of the
+rope was within four feet of it, so I landed on terra firma and called
+to Ray, 'All right, come down!'
+
+"Lighting our candles we found ourselves standing on a mound of pure
+onyx, and on looking around could see we were in an immense cavern,
+whose walls sparkled and glittered as if studded with diamonds. Going
+down twenty feet we found a smooth-floored room that measured three
+hundred feet in length, twenty five feet in width, and thirty feet in
+height. The walls were solid white onyx lined or banded with pink and
+golden stripes. The ceiling was arched, and draped in fantastic shapes,
+and hung with stalactites innumerable. The room was so large and the
+drapery and festooning so delicate and beautiful, that we were filled
+with awe and could not speak for a time.
+
+"At last we started to further explore this wonderland. On going to the
+farther end of the room we found a passage leading on. This we followed
+for a hundred feet and found the whole cavern lined with onyx and
+crystals clear as glass. After loading up with specimens we retraced our
+steps and on reaching the large room we had first entered we heard a
+roaring, rumbling noise. An awful noise truly, which filled us with an
+unknown dread.
+
+"On approaching the entrance we saw a stream of water pouring down,
+completely filling the hole.
+
+"For a moment we felt like rats caught in a trap, our only way of egress
+occupied by a stream of water falling straight down seventy feet, and
+then we wondered how long it would take to fill up the room.
+
+"Suddenly the thought that there might be an outlet for the water gave
+us new hope, so we went to see and sure enough we found a natural
+water-course down through an opening we had overlooked. We gathered up
+courage once more, and thought the best thing would be something to
+occupy our time. So we set to work getting out more specimens and in a
+couple of hours the water stopped running and we were ourselves once
+more.
+
+"Ray grasped the rope, which was soaking wet, and went up the seventy
+feet, hand over hand, like a cat. I, being heavier, found it quite
+different from going down. The rope played whip-cracker with me for some
+time and before reaching the top I was covered with bruises. But
+daylight never appeared so beautiful before.
+
+"Here we found the cause of so much water. A cloud-burst had occurred on
+the Divide and a large portion of it had poured down the passage way to
+the cave.
+
+"We found our horses patiently waiting for us and night closing in.
+Mounting we rode rapidly home, resolved never to venture into this cave
+again without leaving some one at the entrance to give warning in case
+of danger.
+
+"John F. Sidey."
+
+The first specimen taken out was given to us on our first visit to the
+ranch, and is pure white with a stripe of brilliant golden yellow.
+Having been invited to give a name to this new find it seems quite
+proper after reading the description of the deluge and seeing the bright
+bands of color, and considering the hopeful promise of future
+possibilities, to call it The Rainbow Cave.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Colored driver.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+CRYSTAL CAVE.
+
+
+South Dakota can boast of yet another cave in the Black Hills that was
+formed by volcanic disturbance of the rocks and afterwards decorated in
+a manner peculiar to itself. This is Crystal Cave. It is nine miles from
+Piedmont in the eastern edge of the Hills, and easily visited from that
+point by way of the narrow-gauge road, which winds along the natural
+curves of the beautiful Elk Creek cañon, whose walls are said to expose
+a depth of almost a mile of geological strata, although the exposure at
+any one point does not exceed three hundred feet.
+
+The disappointment of not having seen this cave during the summer visit
+to the Hills grew as the weeks passed, and a request that the owner
+should send a description was answered with an assurance that it was
+impossible. Therefore, on Friday, November 13th, 1896, with a small
+nephew, Herbert A. Owen, Jr., for company, the trip was undertaken a
+second time to complete the unfinished mission.
+
+The first glimpse of the Hills is at Edgemont in the early morning, but
+the train makes its way to the north through the heart of the uplift,
+twisting about the curves of the hills and clinging to the sides of a
+beautiful cañon whose high walls give way here and there to fine slopes
+densely covered with forests of pine and spruce. These look black in the
+distance and suggested the name of Black Hills to the Indians, who
+always have a reason for the names they give even to their children.
+
+There are great tracts where fire has killed part or all of the timber
+but left much of it standing, while in other places nature has defied
+the power of fire and the hills are re-clothed with young trees. A
+recent storm had further beautified the region with a few inches of
+snow, but as the day advanced a chinook began to blow so that when
+Deadwood was reached, soon after noon, only the northern exposures
+retained an appearance of winter.
+
+Deadwood is a most peculiar little city and very attractive in its
+peculiarity, being crowded snugly into a depression between a number of
+steep pine-wooded hills, which gives an appearance suggestive of a
+bird's nest securely located among the forks of a branching tree, and as
+is the case in a nest, business is chiefly transacted at the lowest
+depth of the enclosure. As the busy center of a great gold-mining
+region, the metropolis of the Hills, and the outgrowth of an exciting
+historical past, it claims and receives interesting attention. And while
+the whole Black Hills region is still distinctly a man's country, it
+is called woman's paradise, and surely nowhere else are the daughters of
+Eve received with a more gracious courtesy or surrounded by an equally
+unobtrusive protecting care.
+
+[Illustration: Approaching Deadwood. Page 176.]
+
+The streets leading up to the residences lack very little of standing on
+end, and the houses appear to have been hung in place by means of hooks
+and wire cord like pictures on a wall. The smelter has no reception day
+but admits visitors as if their pleasure were a guarantee of profit.
+
+The finest scenery in the Hills is said to be that of the Spearfish
+Cañon, north of Deadwood, and the finest of that at the Falls, but this
+may be doubtful as other points are very beautiful, especially where the
+Burlington & Missouri Road requires a distance of seven miles to climb
+the cañon wall.
+
+Piedmont being the nearest town to Crystal Cave, we took the early
+evening train on the Elk Horn Road and soon were located, and shocked to
+learn that the proprietor of the cave had started several days before to
+drive to Wind Cave for specimens. The cave was closed and no one there.
+The trip had been taken for the one purpose of exploring Crystal Cave,
+and a letter sent in advance to announce our coming, but the train
+carrying it was an hour late so he drove off without the mail.
+
+There seemed at first nothing to be done but take the next returning
+train, which, under the circumstances, was objectionable. A night's rest
+and a telegram that had to be sent twelve miles by special messenger,
+improved the situation. The proprietor was unavoidably detained at Wind
+Cave, but secured a reliable guide, expressed me the cave keys, and has
+since married the "specimen" he had gone in quest of. May great
+happiness dwell at the cave many years!
+
+The morning of the third day after our arrival found arrangements all
+complete, and soon after the train left Piedmont it entered Elk Creek
+Cañon, which is always beautiful, but on that morning was exceptionally
+so on account of a sudden change in the weather having covered every
+visible portion of the passing landscape with heavy frost. The trees on
+distant hills that ordinarily are black, were, for once, all softly
+white, and when the tall pines in the cañon were shaken by a breeze,
+they cast a shower of flakes like snow.
+
+Here the cañon walls are in Carboniferous Limestone with a pleasing
+variety of color in the strata, and the erosion-carving not overdone,
+the most notable piece being the Knife-blade. This, at first view,
+appears to be a high, round tower, but the train following the curve,
+reveals the fact that it is not a tower, but a thin, curved
+knife-blade. The sun just for one instant shone through a rift in the
+clouds, and added special charm to the scene.
+
+[Illustration: The Knife-Blade. Page 178.]
+
+A short distance beyond is Crystal Cave station, where the guide was
+waiting to take us in charge. He is an intelligent young man who has
+served an enlistment term in the army, is recently married, very
+obliging, and proud of being trustworthy.
+
+The scenery here is most beautiful as well as grand. The cañon makes a
+sharp turn toward the south, and on the north opens out into another
+cañon of even greater beauty and higher walls, the perpendicular being
+three hundred feet in places. Crystal Cave is in the hill embraced by
+the junction curve. The natural entrance is more than two hundred feet
+above the cañon bed and was naturally approached from above. A short
+walk up the north cañon, whose name has unfortunately slipped away, was
+over ice and snow the chinook had failed to reach, and brought us to a
+long stairway against the wall, which affords a more direct approach
+than nature gave and is a fair test of physical perfection.
+
+Finally a resting place is reached where the grandeur of the view can be
+enjoyed; and then a shorter stairway completes the ascent of the wall,
+but not of the hill, so there is still a considerable upward walk
+through the forest of tall pines all carpeted with brilliant mats of
+kinnikinic with its shining leaves, glowing in shades of green and red,
+trying to rival the bright scarlet berries. The kinnikinic here
+resembles the wintergreen of the east, while in the mountains in
+Colorado it grows in the form of a shrub two to three feet in height,
+but with no variation in the leaf or berry.
+
+At last perserverance is rewarded with a view of the cave buildings and
+the summit of the hill rising yet higher beyond, and tall, straight
+pines swaying in the rising wind over all.
+
+One of the two houses was entered and preparations quickly made for
+entering the cave, the artificial tunnel entrance being only a little
+distance further on.
+
+The door was unlocked, candle-sticks taken from a shelf within, candles
+from the guide's supply lighted, and we went forward at last, into
+Crystal Cave. At the end of the new tunnel, a second door was passed
+through, which is locked on the inside during the visiting season by the
+last guide to enter, in order that no chance late arrival may enter
+alone and be lost.
+
+The first room is a small one at the junction of the natural and
+artificial entrances, from which we go upstairs to the Resting Room, in
+the highest level of the cave, and perfectly dry but otherwise of no
+special interest. After a short rest here we went down stairs at the
+side opposite that on which we entered, into a passage leading to the
+cave's first beauty, the Red Room. As the name indicates, the walls are
+vividly colored and represent the uncertain line which separates the
+Carboniferous strata from the Triassic rocks. The color is handsomely
+brought out here in contrast with masses of calcite crystal, so as to
+present by the combination a charmingly beautiful room, from which we
+retired, feet first, down a "squeeze" to the Bridal Chamber, where we
+found ourselves perched on an irregular narrow ledge, high up on the
+wall, and cherishing a private conviction that exploration had met a
+checkmate; but the guide reached the floor and my nephew, Herbert,
+scrambled down with as much ease as the chipmunk he had chased to the
+house top a while before; so a little application settled the difficulty
+and re-united the party. The room is an artistic study in red, and the
+only reason for its being called the Bridal Chamber is that the way out
+is decidedly more rough and difficult than that by which the entrance is
+effected; this, however, is an observation not based on official
+information.
+
+Off to one side of this room is Lost Man's Paradise, also in red and
+crystal, named in honor of the timely rescue of one who had faced the
+possibility of becoming a lost soul.
+
+Another Fat Man's Misery, on a lower level, leads from the Bridal
+Chamber to the Big Dome, a large room with a fine dome-shaped ceiling
+from which heavy masses of crystals have fallen to the floor; and down a
+steep incline from here is Reef Rock, an immense fallen rock with box
+work on the under side, which at one time served to ornament the
+ceiling; and now this rock marks the beginning of Poverty Flat, a broad,
+low passage of great extent, that has been robbed of all its wonderful
+treasure of crystal and ends in a steep, rough declivity named Bunker
+Hill by the guides who dreaded to mount it when going out loaded with
+specimens. At the foot of the Hill is a bowlder of enormous size and
+with a pointed top, known as Pyramid Rock and giving the same name to
+the large room in which it stands.
+
+Every portion of Crystal Cave has at one time been heavily crusted with
+calcite crystals, mainly of the dog-tooth variety, and any barren places
+are so either because the surface has been removed for specimens, or
+thrown down by the violence of an earthquake. But where the latter has
+been the cause of removal, the crystals have in most cases been renewed,
+which is amply evidenced by the fallen masses being crystallized on all
+sides; and these as well as most of the walls, are not covered thinly
+with one crust, but layer has been added to layer until the thickness
+is four to ten inches and often more. The ceilings that have been
+denuded by nature's forces during the same early period when water
+filled the cave were also renewed.
+
+From the Pyramid Room a narrow fissure forms a passage to the Cactus
+Chamber, where there is a marvelous floor on which the crystals are in
+bunches like cacti, and the beautiful ceiling is the finest and most
+irregular unbroken mass of crystal yet seen.
+
+Passing through a round hole known as the Needle's Eye, we enter
+Statuary Hall, where the latest inrush of water has eroded the sharp
+points from the crystals, leaving only smooth surfaces, and at the same
+time done much curious carving, the most conspicuous pieces of this work
+being a bear and the heads of an Indian and his baby.
+
+Out from the Hall are two important routes, one down the steep incline
+of Beaver's Slide to The Catacombs, and another, which we followed
+first, is through Rocky Run, a rough and rocky pass, to a large and
+handsomely crystallized chamber called the I.X.L. Room, on account of
+those three letters, over twelve inches in height, being distinctly and
+conspicuously worked in crystal on a magnificent piece of box work that
+would weigh nearly half a ton, for which an offer of five hundred
+dollars is said to have been refused.
+
+The next chamber beyond is Tilotson Hall, very large and extremely
+rough, and named in honor of a teacher from the Normal School, who
+delivered an address here that gave much pleasure to both visitors and
+guides.
+
+The way to farther advance is now more difficult and through a jagged
+crevice of threatening appearance, but the trip is made in safety and
+with comparative ease, and brings us into Notre Dame, one of the largest
+chambers in the cave and perhaps the finest, although where so much is
+fine that may be uncertain. The display of box work and crystal is
+sufficiently gorgeous to do honor to the famous old cathedral of France,
+the ceiling especially being a masterpiece of the builder's and
+decorator's arts; but the grandest portion, which a visitor recently
+returned from foreign travel called The Russian Castle, on account of
+the magnificence of the large box work and pearly crystal masses, should
+rather be known as the great cathedral's crowning glory, The Altar.
+
+Another large room, the handsome Council Chamber, is entered just as
+that Altar of pearl is lost to view; and from there an up-hill trip is
+taken through a narrow crevice to Whale Flat, which is the natural
+history room, with a large whale as the show specimen.
+
+Going out from here we enter another crevice which serves as a steep
+stairway descending to a lower level, and measures from top to bottom
+one hundred and eighteen feet. This is called Rip Van Winkle's Stairway,
+and although merely a high and crooked crack in the rock, is very
+beautiful because heavily coated with crystal, the effect being
+especially striking at the top where the crystal is partly worn away and
+leaves exposed patches of red rock.
+
+At the foot of the Stairway is the first room containing water, and is
+called the Gypsy Camp. It is the most charming chamber yet visited, with
+not the smallest spot of plain or common rock visible. The ceiling,
+walls, floor, and groups of fallen rocks, are all unbroken masses of
+pearly calcite in crystals of varied sizes, with here and there a patch
+coated over with pure white carbonate of lime, or supporting a bunch of
+fragile egg-shell, which is a thin, hollow crust of lime carbonate,
+almost invariably having the pointed form of the dog-tooth spar. And
+there are also beautiful mats and banks of dainty white carbonate
+flowers. While waiting here for the guide to go in quest of the lunch we
+had carelessly left behind, the time was utilized in measuring the room,
+which is a small one. The size of the cave and our limited time for
+seeing it, prevented much-desired measurements from being taken in all
+parts of the cave.
+
+This room was found to be forty-eight feet long, the irregular width
+varied from fourteen to thirty feet and the height from four and
+one-half to ten feet. The crystal water basin is especially beautiful
+and the water so clear that we stood looking into it with
+disappointment, being thirsty and thinking it dry, until the guide
+laughingly dipped and offered a cupful. The basin is the segment of a
+circle rounding beneath a massive, overhanging crystal ledge of
+wonderful beauty, and is nine feet long by two in width. This room and
+the Stairway into it are alone worthy of a visit, but there is much that
+is finer still.
+
+Out of Gypsy Camp by way of Gunny Sack Crawl, so named by the workmen
+who spread gunny sacks to relieve the torture of crawling over the
+beautiful floor of sharp crystals, we enter the first chamber, where
+active operation is still maintained and certain branches of the great
+decorative industry of the cave may be carefully studied. This operative
+chamber, which is unnamed, would no doubt be called a factory in the
+east, but in its own locality would more likely be referred to as The
+Works.
+
+The next chamber entered is Crystal Flat, whose floor is completely
+covered with immense crystal blocks, and the wonderful crystal ceiling
+is exceedingly fine. But time being limited we must pass on into the
+Lake Room, where is Crystal Lake, the largest body of water in the cave.
+It is about thirty feet long by fifteen wide and its greatest depth
+is said to be ten feet. The water is cold and clear, and the gold fish
+introduced as an experiment three years ago are said to have grown
+rapidly but not yet turned white, and are not known to have become
+blind.
+
+[Illustration: The Bridal Veil. Page 187.]
+
+At some little distance from Crystal Lake, and not within the same range
+of vision, although in the same room, is Dry Lake, which to the surprise
+of the guide we found to be not dry, but full of limpid water through
+which we could distinctly see the delicate clusters of crystals it is
+depositing. They are of a pale honey yellow and are called Gum-drops on
+account of the resemblance to that variety of confection.
+
+The name Dry Lake was given because in blasting out a passage a
+misdirected shot went through the bottom of the Lake, which in
+consequence was soon drained; but the heavily charged water has sealed
+up the unfortunate break, and resumed its interrupted work. The ceiling
+drops to a height of little more than three feet directly above the Lake
+margin, and is a beautiful crystal mass, which at a little distance down
+the sloping floor appears as the background for a fine piece of cave
+statuary called The Bridal Veil, and formed of cream-tinted dripstone.
+Not a great deal of imagination is required to see a slender girlish
+figure completely enveloped in the flowing folds of a wedding veil that
+falls lightly about her feet. The figure itself is three feet ten inches
+in height and stands on an almost flat circular base of the same
+material, that measures nine inches in depth and two feet eight inches
+in diameter. At times the water rises sufficiently to cover the base, in
+proof of which it left a fringe-like border of small sharp crystals,
+such as could be formed only beneath the water's surface. Most of this
+border has, unfortunately, been chiseled off for specimens, but will be
+renewed in time if left undisturbed; and that condition can easily be
+secured with a few feet of wire netting.
+
+To one side of this room is a most daintily beautiful alcove so
+profusely decorated with fragile forms of dripstone that a passage
+through it without causing damage is extremely difficult. This alcove is
+about twenty-five feet in either direction, with a sloping floor almost
+covered with stalagmitic growths above the earlier deposit of sharp
+crystals, and many of these rise in slender columns to the glass-like
+ceiling, which varies in height from three to six feet and is thickly
+studded with small stalactites of both varieties--the pointed, solid
+form, and those of uniform size, which are always hollow like a pipe
+stem. The central ornament is the Chimes, a musical group of stalactites
+which is scarcely more beautiful than Cleopatra's Needle, at a
+distance of a few feet to one side, a transparent column four feet
+in height and having an average circumference of seventeen inches.
+
+[Illustration: The Chimes. Page 188.]
+
+[Illustration: The Needle. Page 188.]
+
+[Illustration: Tower of Babel. Page 189.]
+
+The Abode of the Fairies is a similar, though smaller room, with The
+Tower of Babel for a handsome show-piece. While this portion of the cave
+is extremely attractive, the measurements given show that in comparison
+with caves of other states the drip deposit here is too small to be
+reckoned an important feature in itself, but in conjunction with the
+miles of calc-spar that give the cave a character distinctly its own, it
+well repays all attention.
+
+Leaving Lake Room we enter a newly opened, long, dry passage to Slab
+Room, where a comparatively recent earthquake has shaken down the
+ornamental ceiling and spread it in great slabs over the floor; and
+having since remained perfectly dry it has the appearance of being the
+work of yesterday. This room is remembered as the one in which a party
+of workers were lost, and one of their number gave a severe nervous
+shock to the junior proprietor by suggesting that as he was acting as
+guide and unable to lead them out, it was only right that he should be
+the first victim to satisfy their hunger. A rescuing party with
+extinguished candles was listening behind a rock to the blood-curdling
+speech, and came forward to restore cheerfulness.
+
+A long, irregular, frosty looking crevice called Jack Frost Streak,
+conducts us from Slab Room and ends at Mold Ladder, on which we pause to
+admire a wonderful growth of snow-white cave vegetation, before
+ascending into Santa Claus' Pass, the longest passage in the cave. It is
+a rough crevice named from the fact of being discovered on Christmas
+Eve, and ends at the Government Room on the main tourist route where a
+U.S. pack saddle and apparently portable bath tub are conspicuous.
+
+Next beyond is a very large room named New Zealand, on account or its
+icy appearance and the undisputed possession of a seal. This room in
+turn opens into Mold Chamber, where an old board platform, formerly used
+for the display of specimens, has fostered the most marvelously
+beautiful growth of mold: it hangs in ropes five and six feet long, with
+tasseled ends, and in broad, looped draperies; but is most beautiful
+where it has taken possession of the rocks and spreads out on the flat
+surface like large open fans, with deep, soft feather borders.
+
+Having been in the cave eight hours, we now followed the outward passage
+from Mold Chamber and soon reached an open trap door where the guide
+suggested to Herbert that he would be afraid to go down alone and allow
+him to close the door; but the child surprised him by quietly stepping
+down and then asking why he wished it, only to be told "because we are
+coming too." Which we did and found ourselves in the main entrance
+passage, and in due time returned to the outer world where a terrific
+wind was roaring through the tall pines and the early winter evening had
+already closed in dark.
+
+The guide locked the cave, walked with us to the house where he lighted
+a lamp and left us to prepare for the return to town; but the lamp,
+belonging to a bachelor, was empty, so we made our preparations in
+imitation of the blind. On the guide's return he lighted a candle, but
+suggested that twenty minutes were generally allowed for reaching the
+station.
+
+The house was accordingly closed and as we walked down the long, curving
+slope to the stairway, he told of a new and unknown bob-tailed wolf that
+has recently made its first appearance among the hills in considerable
+numbers and to the terror of stock. It attacks and bites horses or
+cattle, and after waiting for the fatal poison inflicted to take effect,
+falls to and eats the victim.
+
+The uncovered platform which serves as a station being reached a few
+minutes before the train arrived, I expressed an unwillingness to detain
+our guide longer on account of his having a walk of four and a half
+miles to his home; but he declined to consider the subject; saying he
+had been directed not to leave us until we were taken safely on the
+train, which came sweeping round the curve on time and stopped for us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+CRYSTAL CAVE CONCLUDED.
+
+
+According to agreement the guide again met us at the station on the
+following morning, for another day in the cave, which we entered with no
+unnecessary loss of time, and hurrying through the main entrance
+passage, Government Room and Statuary Hall, went down Beaver Slide,
+which, on the previous day, we had passed to enter Rocky Run. Our
+descent into the crevice took us past those portions known as Suspension
+Bridge and Rebecca's Well, and over some very "rough country" to the
+most wonderful parts of the cave. Numerous passages open out in various
+directions; one to rooms of frost work of great beauty; another to the
+Ribbon Room where the drip deposits on the walls are in ribbon-like
+stripes of red, yellow, and white, while others yet are ways to the
+Catacombs. And it is the Catacombs we particularly wish to see, as they
+most perfectly represent the individual character of the cave and have,
+as yet, received no injury from either time or man; but is a region as
+difficult to travel as the way of the transgressor, and many miles can
+be traversed with no prospect of coming to the end. But where locomotion
+is so slow and painful, the owner of a pedometer would find that
+instrument a discouraging companion and soon learn better than to
+consult its record publicly.
+
+The Catacombs are a series of connected fissures and small crevices in
+which every inch of exposed surface is covered with clear, translucent,
+almost transparent, calcite crystals, neither coated with lime nor
+stained with clay; nor even is the pearly lustre dimmed with the
+slightest trace of dust. The crystals are very sharp and of all sizes,
+ranging from half an inch to three and a half inches in length, the
+larger sizes being conspicuously abundant. The entire region is an
+enormously large, perfectly formed, and undamaged geode. In reality, the
+whole cave is a great cluster of connected geodes, and a similar work
+probably does not exist, but if it does, has never been discovered. The
+fissures from which it is formed were opened by volcanic violence and
+then enlarged, and afterwards decorated by the varied power of water, in
+action or repose.
+
+When the storms toward the close of the Tertiary period suddenly
+overwhelmed with floods the dense growth of tropical vegetation and
+multitudinous animal life in the Northwest, the waters necessarily
+became heavily charged with the naturally resulting carbonic acid gas,
+and this, acting on the limestone rocks, would decompose them, leaving a
+residual clay and taking the chief portions of the mineral components in
+solution, to be afterwards deposited according to circumstances and
+conditions; and these are indicated by the various results found in Wind
+Cave, Crystal Cave, the Onyx Caves and the Bad Lands. The latter being
+previous to that time by no means "bad," but richly luxuriant in
+tropical vegetation, which gave shelter from the heat to great numbers
+of curious animals.
+
+Some approximate idea of the extreme age of these caves may be gained
+from the fact that bones of a three-toed horse have been discovered in a
+chamber of Crystal Cave that must be practically unchanged since the
+remains were carried in from the outside, as otherwise they would have
+been buried beneath the fallen masses of crystal covered rock with which
+the entire floor is cumbered. And yet this room is so remote from any
+present connection with the outer world that it is impossible for their
+introduction to have taken place in recent times.
+
+In the beautiful Catacombs progress is as slow as in a cactus thicket or
+a blackberry patch. The crevices lack none of the usual crevice
+irregularities; high places must be mounted or descended, chasms crossed
+and narrow passages crawled through, while extra caution must be
+exercised to avoid striking the head or making a misstep that might
+result in a fall. The hands are in constant use and soon become so
+sensitive that holding a soft handkerchief gives infinite relief; but
+the worst experience is the "crawls" where only the soles of the feet,
+being temporarily turned up, seem safe from the savage treatment of the
+sharp calcite dog-teeth. The worst crawl encountered was a small one
+having a downward slope with a jump-off at the end which necessitated
+its being taken feet first. Fortunately it was short. But in no place do
+the difficulties outweigh the pleasure of beholding scenes of such
+beauty, or suggest regret for the time, torn garments, and personal
+exertion required for its enjoyment.
+
+In many portions of the cave the surface layer of crystals has had the
+points worn away by the action of water, later than that in which they
+were formed; but in the Catacombs and other extensive regions as well,
+the finished work of crystallization is preserved in an absolutely
+perfect condition. And everywhere the largest crystals are on the under
+side of a projection or the roof of a cavity.
+
+As the day was passing far too rapidly and many points of special
+interest yet remained unseen, we turned with reluctance from the beauty
+and relief from the hardships of exploration in the Catacombs, and made
+our way over a crevice into Santa Claus' Pass, which was traversed for
+a considerable distance and then abandoned for a low crawl terminating
+at the Senate Chamber. This is a large room extending to Poverty Flat,
+and is brilliantly red and purely white, most of the crystal presenting
+a smooth surface. Under the Senate Chamber there is said to be some fine
+box work which we had no time to visit. The name of this chamber was
+given by a visiting party composed of members of both houses of
+Congress. A smaller room, which is really an extension of the Senate
+Chamber, has handsome walls of white and red box work on account of
+which the same distinguished party called it the Senate Post-office.
+
+From here a difficult crawl, through red rock, well-worn by the action
+of water, leads to the Starr Chamber, another large room in white and
+red, and named by Senator Starr of South Dakota.
+
+Opening out from the last room is a curious, dangerous looking, narrow,
+crevice-chamber known as Suicide Room on account of the threatening
+appearance of over-hanging rocks, some of which have at times fallen in
+great masses of various sizes to form an irregular floor; and a descent
+of this is necessary in order to reach a short and extremely rough
+crawl, beautifully and painfully decorated with sharp crystals above and
+below and on the sides. From this we emerge into Rainy Chamber, an
+elliptical room not less than two hundred feet long by one hundred feet
+wide, with a tent-like ceiling rising high in the center and sloping
+down to meet the floor, which also slopes irregularly toward a deep
+central depression, giving the room a greater height than any other
+visited. The high points are generally seen in the narrow crevices,
+while the rooms of generous length and breadth are usually low, many of
+the largest having an average of five feet or even less.
+
+Although there is frequent intersection of crevices, and each chamber
+has passages leading out on every side, the general direction of the
+cave is said to be northwest-southeast.
+
+Rainy Chamber is named from the fact that during the early months of
+summer water falls constantly in the form of a light shower; but it
+drips at all times, and in consequence there is an opportunity to study
+the active process of formation of one of the deposits which is very
+abundant in Wind Cave and considered the most perplexing. This is the
+pop-corn, and the theories of its origin have been steadily rejected at
+Wind Cave because of a doubt being entertained as to whether it has been
+deposited under water or by drippings. Here in Rainy Chamber it is fully
+explained. Near the center of the room the fallen masses are heavily
+crystallized, much of the groundwork being fine box work and the
+crystals in perfect condition. On these crystals the pop-corn is being
+formed, and specimens can be seen in all stages of development, from the
+beginning to an approximate degree of finish; and whatever the position
+it occupies on the receiving surface, either on top, underneath, or on a
+side exposure, it always maintains the same relative position as growing
+plants on the mundane sphere. The water falling on the upper surface in
+scattering drops forms myriads of minute stalagmites; on side positions
+the falling drop first strikes the point exposed to its line of descent
+and then spreads. The scant moisture slowly makes its way down sloping
+sides and shelving edges, leaving on each small irregularity a tiny
+portion of its volume, to deposit an infinitely small charge of solid
+substance, and the balance finally hangs in moisture less than drops on
+the growing grains of the under surface.
+
+Pop-corn, therefore, is the globular aragonite of the stalagmitic
+variety. A small specimen from Rainy Chamber, placed beside one of the
+same color from Wind Cave, shows them to be absolutely alike.
+
+Rainy Chamber is the room in which the bones of the three-toed horse,
+already referred to, were found, but their presence has not yet been
+explained; therefore the case is open to conjecture and several
+theories may be advanced and their values considered. The first question
+when such a discovery is made, is whether the living animal was possibly
+a cave-dweller; which, as the horse was not, is quickly disposed of and
+attention turned to the next, the possibility of a carniverous animal
+having carried his prey into the dark recesses of the cave in order that
+the enjoyment of his dinner might be undisturbed. This theory is equally
+unavailable by reason of the topographical features presented. If the
+present natural entrance to the cave were the only way into this room
+from the outside, the distance was too great and beset with many
+difficulties; besides which the final passage is too small to admit an
+animal of sufficient size to carry any considerable portion of even a
+very small horse. But if at that period the room had direct
+communication with the outside through an opening since closed, the
+shape of the walls indicate that it must have been a pot-hole in the
+roof, and through this an animal could have entered by falling, which
+the horse and others may have done. But it seems most probable that the
+remains were carried in by the water through such a hole before it was
+closed at the beginning of the Quaternary period, when the erosion of
+the Hills was most active.
+
+Rainy Chamber also contains a large and beautiful assortment of the
+small polished and coated pebbles called cave pearls.
+
+The guide being anxious that we should not fail to see the Niagara Room,
+we now turned toward a low, broad opening in the wall, a short distance
+to the right of the entrance, where the rising floor and descending
+ceiling, failing to meet, had overlapped; so we made our way up a steep,
+smooth bank, and then down on the other side over a broken, rocky
+surface for a distance of about twenty feet, when the roof at last
+joined the floor and two small water-worn holes at the point of junction
+revealed an untempting passage within. The broader of these holes was
+three feet, but too low to be considered an entrance; the other was
+round but certainly not so large as our guide, who was preparing to
+enter it with doubts of his ability to make the trip, on account of
+having increased in size since his one entrance there, on which occasion
+two smaller guides pulled him through the tightest places. Carefully
+comparing his size with that of the hole he sat beside, there was no
+possibility of doubt that if the attempt were made he would stick fast,
+and that would place our little party in dire straits. Consequently I
+insisted that it should not be, but he was unwilling that Niagara should
+be missed when so near. Finally I positively refused to go unless he
+would consent to give us instructions and remain where he was while we
+went without him, to which he at last yielded with extreme
+unwillingness. He had frequently shown us the guide's marks, and now
+earnestly cautioned me to advance only as they point, and turn back if
+they should fail.
+
+The small nephew went on a reconnoitering expedition to the end of the
+passage, and reported that the jump-off there was higher than himself
+but he could get down. I now crawled through the hole and found the
+passage to be a "crawl" or rather a "sprawl," from fifteen to eighteen
+inches high, but having an ample width varying from three to six feet.
+The smooth, straight floor has a steep downward inclination and is
+thickly covered with dust.
+
+Having reached the widest portion, which is near the end, Herbert
+directed me to turn, so as to come down the jump-off feet first, where
+there was a little difficulty in landing, as the perpendicular wall,
+which proved to be almost five feet high, offered only one projecting
+help, and that within a few inches of the base; but in obedience to his
+advice to "reach one foot a little farther down and then drop," I
+advanced the right one, to be told not that, but the other, and was soon
+down where it was possible to observe with interest that the right foot
+had been swinging above an open fissure. We stood in a wide crevice
+running at right angles to the obnoxious passage we had just quit, and
+immediately found a guide's mark on a large rock, and others followed at
+intervals of a few feet over extremely "rough country" as the guides
+say. Everywhere the work of water was apparent, not in the crystal
+deposits of still water as in other portions of the cave, but the
+erosion due to its rushing through. Carefully following the marks, they
+led into a cross-crevice that took us under Rainy Chamber, and ends
+there by widening into a circular chamber of about fifty feet width in
+either direction, and rising to a height of nearly fifty feet in a fine
+dome. Down the wall from near the top of the dome there appears to flow
+a beautiful waterfall showing a variety of colors in the straight lines,
+as if from refraction. The fall is, of course, dripstone, and I knew we
+had found Niagara, although we had gone beyond the reach of the guide's
+voice almost at the start. A huge rock directly under the dome has
+received the falling drip until it represents a mountain cataract. These
+deposits testify to the great age of the chamber they adorn, as they
+were necessarily not commenced until all heavy flow ceased, and in
+Crystal Cave the accumulation of dripstone is so slow that it is said
+six years' observation can detect no increase whatever.
+
+Several small passages at the floor level gave exit to the great volume
+of water that evidently at one time entered this crevice, from Rainy
+Chamber, by the route we followed, and being checked in its course the
+lower end of the crevice became filled, under pressure; and the low
+position of the outlets gave this water a whirling motion that in time
+excavated the dome-shaped room.
+
+No part of Crystal Cave has ever been occupied by a river, but its
+fissures, opened by the violence of earth movements accompanying nearby
+volcanic disturbances, have been filled more than once by the inrush of
+waters which repeatedly submerged the whole Black Hills region.
+
+Following again the marks which guided us into Niagara Room, we soon
+came within hailing distance of a voice expressive of profound relief;
+and as we crawled up the sloping passage, over-heated and breathless
+with the exertion, the guide assured us he was most truly thankful to
+see us again, as he had never in his life experienced so severe a scare
+as since it had occurred to him that we had gone beyond the limits of
+communication without a single match.
+
+He also said I had been where no lady had ever gone before, and took
+satisfaction in the fact that many men have refused to make the venture
+with a guide.
+
+Leaving this portion of the cave, by returning as we came, through
+Suicide Room, Starr Chamber, and Senate Chamber, we crawled along the
+rocks overhanging a narrow fissure, to reach a ladder at the end, by
+which we descended to another part of the Catacombs. Here, after
+traveling a long distance over uneven floors covered with sharp
+crystals, as were all surfaces, through large, low rooms, and narrow,
+crooked passages, constantly assisting the difficult advance with our
+hands, like monkeys, we finally came to The Grotto, which is probably
+the most remarkable room in this very remarkable cave. It is a large
+room, with much of the irregular ceiling so low that even the small
+nephew struck his head severely while turning to warn me, as he often
+did, of threatening inequalities in the floor and light them with his
+own candle. The crystals here are exceptionally fine, being very sharp
+and of unusual size, besides many of them being double--that is, pointed
+at both ends. Through this beautiful ceiling there is a percolating drip
+adding stalactites to the crystal-points and piling stalagmites on the
+crystal masses below, varying this with imitation cascades, mats of
+small flowers, and masses of pop-corn. Off to one side in a kind of
+recess there is a depression in the crystal floor filled with clear,
+cold water.
+
+A glance at the time now showed us to be in danger of failure to meet
+the train to town, and consequently, tired as we were after nine hours
+of rough travel and much climbing, it was necessary to make our way out
+with more speed than comfort, and we found the weather turning very
+cold. The cave was carefully locked, preparations for the train
+hurriedly made, the house closed, and as we left it the train could be
+heard coming down the cañon, but we arrived at the station first, though
+breathless, and a few minutes later were in Piedmont, too tired to
+properly enjoy a hot venison supper.
+
+As to the size of Crystal Cave, it is impossible to make any positive
+statement; for as Mr. McBride, the proprietor, says, no survey has yet
+been made. Other persons said that thirty-six miles is the greatest
+claim made for the combined length of all passages, and sixteen miles
+the least, so it may be wise to accept the lesser number until a survey
+proves it wrong.
+
+The box work in Crystal Cave is not of such great abundance as to demand
+special attention, but is very beautiful, and one variety deserves
+particular mention. These boxes have been formed in dark red sandstone,
+and after being emptied of their original contents, have been completely
+filled with colorless calcite crystals, and over this is spread an outer
+surface of the same crystals tinted a brilliant flame color by red
+paint-clay having been taken in solution by the crystal forming waters.
+A specimen of this was a temptation too great to be resisted even in the
+owner's absence.
+
+Some of the box work is of such size that a single box may have a
+capacity equal to that of a bushel measure, but it is less beautiful
+than the smaller forms.
+
+On the following morning we left Piedmont, and having a desire for
+greater personal knowledge of the Hills, took the same train which had
+taken us to the cave, and traveled to its western terminus, Lead City.
+The interesting scenery makes this a desirable trip for any one visiting
+the Hills, but its beauty is chiefly massed at the ends, the middle
+distance being over gradually rising ground, which is without a
+counterpart of the rocky cañon left behind or more than a suggestion of
+the high hills yet to come. The special charm of this portion was the
+magnificent pine forest which covered it until three years ago, when it
+was swept by a terrible fire, from which the settlers escaped with only
+their lives; and even that would have been impossible if the railroad
+company had not kept refuge trains waiting for them just ahead of the
+flames. The prominent geological feature here is the porphyry dikes,
+which are becoming more numerous and more prominent, and in many places
+resemble a conspicuous group near Harney Peak, called The Needles. These
+dykes are of special interest in connection with a study of the caves,
+since they are probably of simultaneous origin.
+
+The same volcanic movements that caused the violent upheaval of the
+whole region, and thrust up molten masses through the strata to form a
+central core to the Hills, must also have rent the nearby regions with
+fissures through which probably much gas escaped, and having been
+further opened and then adorned, now demand our attention as caves of
+unique and curious beauty.
+
+The approach to Lead is over the hill-tops with a magnificent distant
+view, and the first glimpses of that young city famous for having as a
+center the Homestake mine, the largest gold mine in the world, are
+charming. It is situated far down in a valley among the high hills and
+spreads some distance up the surrounding slopes.
+
+The works of the great mine are wonderful, and visitors welcome to
+examine whatever they find interesting; any questions they wish to ask
+are graciously answered, although every one is busy. This is not a
+special favor to the exceptional few, but the courtesy shown to all.
+Visitors are also welcome to descend into the mine, but as an attendant
+is necessary on account of dangers to be avoided, a permit must be
+obtained at the office.
+
+Several other caves have been discovered in the Black Hills, the largest
+of which is the Davenport Cave at Sturgis. Very little exploration has
+yet been done in it, but indications are said to be that it will take
+rank among the large ones.
+
+At Galena, a new mining town of golden promise, there is reported to be
+an Ice Cave, where ice forms at all seasons, and during the warm weather
+is a source of comfort and pleasure to the miners.
+
+In the evening, as train time for continuing the homeward journey
+approached, the snow storm which began gently early in the afternoon,
+grew steadily more severe. A carriage to the depot was not to be had, as
+every vehicle in town had gone to the funeral of an old-timer in the
+Hills and the return delayed by the storm. The situation could not be
+regarded as a special pleasure, but cave hunters learn to accept
+whatever is and be thankful for the general average. At the last moment,
+however, a team was driven up and permission given us to make use of it.
+It proved to be the private conveyance of the hotel proprietor, and the
+young boy who accompanied us, his son.
+
+Our train was on time, and the ride through the Hills to their southern
+limit, in the falling snow, was wonderfully beautiful; but the storm
+continued for many days and was one of the most severe on record.
+
+Those persons who have been so unfortunate as to permit themselves to
+accept a ready made opinion of dangers and roughness to be met with in
+the more newly settled regions, might find a tour of the Hills doubly
+interesting by making a supplementary study of "The Living Age," which
+cannot be so correctly viewed from a distance as is sometimes supposed,
+since the specimens exhibited are not always a true average of the
+strata they are supposed to represent.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+After a visit to the marvelous caverns of the Black Hills, much may be
+added to the pleasure already enjoyed, through the explanatory activity
+of the Yellowstone National Park, where even the wonderful combinations
+of beauty and grandeur are by no means the full measure of attraction
+and charm. Here is found evidence to verify theories concerning the
+caves, and those theories in turn contribute in no small degree to a
+satisfactory understanding of the mysteries of geyser action. For
+scientific study the two regions should be taken together, since the
+natural conditions are practically the same, and the chief difference
+lies in the stages of development; the present of the Park explaining
+the recent past of the Hills, while the present of the Hills foretells
+the future of the Park. It seems that Nature, with a full appreciation
+of the limits and restrictions binding our powers to penetrate certain
+secrets of an intermittent force, has in this great western country
+carefully prepared what might quite properly be termed a progressive
+course of study, wherein each locality makes plain a special point that
+somewhere else appears obscure.
+
+As has been said in the preceding chapters, the two great caves in the
+Black Hills of South Dakota cannot be accounted for by the same methods
+as are recognized as being responsible for the slow excavation of the
+best known caves of the United States. Although there is every
+indication that both these caves have been subject to the action of
+enormous volumes of water, there is equally positive evidence that
+neither was ever the scene of a flowing cave-river. The lowest levels in
+both show the narrowest fissures and the heaviest deposits of crystal,
+by which we infer that the water was held in confinement here, while all
+the higher passages or channels bear witness to the water's flow. But
+many of these channels in Crystal Cave, or indeed we might say, most of
+them, present an unmistakable record of the gauge of the water stage at
+different periods. During the earlier time, when the volume of water and
+consequent pressure were greatest, frictional motion must have been
+limited to the main channel connecting with the vent, and the high gauge
+of water maintained a fairly uniform degree of heat near its surface. In
+consequence of these conditions geyser action, probably, was constant,
+and chemical activity was such that great chambers were formed and then
+decorated, as already described, with wonderful masses of crystal. As
+the water gauge receded to lower levels the higher chambers became
+storage basins for water and steam forced up by the pressure from below,
+and the time required for these to fill and accumulate sufficient
+pressure to continue the ejectment, formed the periods between eruptions
+after the geyser became intermittent. It was during this stage that the
+sharp crystals in many of the channels, now called passages, were worn
+down to smooth surfaces; and later, when water occupied only the lowest
+level, and the great geyser had become reduced to merely a steam vent,
+the channels immediately connecting with that level were in their turn
+subjected to the same smoothing process, and then all action ceased.
+
+As no two of the glorious geysers of the Yellowstone Park are alike,
+neither do the two great caves of the Hills indicate that they should be
+so. The vent-tubing of each is quite unlike that of the other in all the
+essential governing points of length, size, shape, angle of inclination
+and power-conserving bends. And the differences extend in an almost
+equally marked degree throughout the vast and complicated succession of
+storage chambers and their connecting channels. The small vent of Wind
+Cave shows that the ejected jet was far from being equal to that of the
+Crystal Cave in volume; but the nearly perpendicular long arm of its
+tube shows also that its jet attained a much greater height, even
+supposing that it should be necessary to make some allowance for a short
+elbow at the top.
+
+Dr. Hayden's geological party gave much attention to the Yellowstone
+Park while its wonders were new to the world, and observations were made
+at various times during the period included between the years 1869 and
+1870. The special study, and full report of the geysers became the duty
+of Dr. A.C. Peal, whose descriptions and conclusions were published in
+U.S. Geological Survey Report, 1878, Part II. In the final pages of his
+report he quotes the leading authorities on geyser action, and applies
+the principles of their theories, according to his own judgment, to the
+geysers of the park. Since copies of this report are not now easily
+obtained, nor even always accessible to the increasing number of
+personages who visit the park, it may be well to quote from him some of
+the theories he discussed and the opinions he expressed. On page 416,
+beginning the chapter with the derivation of the word geyser from the
+Icelandic word _geysa_--to gush, he continues:
+
+"We now come to the definition of a geyser. It may be defined to be a
+periodically eruptive or intermittent _hot_ spring, from which the water
+is projected into the air in a fountain-like column. The analogy between
+geysers and volcanoes has frequently been noticed and the former have
+often been described as volcanoes which erupt heated water instead of
+melted lava. We have italicized the word hot in the definition just
+given, because springs containing a large amount of gas may simulate
+geysers.
+
+"The difference between geysers and ordinary hot springs is not readily
+explained, nor even always recognized. The difference between a quiet
+thermal spring and a geyser in active eruption is very marked, but
+between the two there is every grade of action. Some geysers appear as
+quiet springs, as for instance the Grand Geyser during its period of
+quiescence. Others might easily be mistaken for constantly boiling
+springs, as in the case of the Giant Geyser, in which the water is
+constantly in active ebullition. This is true also of the Strockr of
+Iceland. Many of the springs, therefore, that in the Yellowstone Park
+have been classed as constantly boiling springs may be unsuspected
+geysers. The Excelsior Geyser was not discovered to be a geyser until
+eight years after the setting aside of the park. Almost all constantly
+boiling springs have periods of increased activity, and those which
+spurt a few feet into the air have been classed as pseudo-geysers.
+
+"It has been noticed that geysers occur where the intensity of volcanic
+action is decreasing. In the neighborhood of active volcanoes, such as
+Vesuvius, the temperature appears to be too high, and the vapor escapes
+as steam from what are called stufas. When the rocks at the surface are
+more cooled the water comes forth in liquid form.
+
+"We will now pass to the various geyser theories that have been proposed
+by different writers."
+
+Dr. Peal then proceeds to give the theories of Sir J. Herschell and Sir
+George McKenzie, but as they are accepted and extended by others, we may
+pass on to Bischof's, of which Dr. Peal says: "Very similar to
+McKenzie's theory is the one adopted by Bischof in his Researches on the
+Internal Heat of the Globe (pages 227, 228). It is really the theory of
+Krug Von Nidda, who examined the geyser in 1833. Bischof says:
+
+"'He (Krug Von Nidda) takes it for granted that these hot springs derive
+their temperature from the aqueous vapors rising from below. When these
+vapors are able to rise freely in a continued column the water at the
+different depths must have a constant temperature equal to that at which
+water would boil under the pressure existing at the respective depths;
+hence the constant ebullition of the permanent springs and their boiling
+heat. If, on the other hand, the vapors be prevented by the complicated
+windings of its channels from rising to the surface; if, for example,
+they be arrested in caverns, the temperature in the upper layers of
+water must necessarily become reduced, because a large quantity of it is
+lost by evaporation at the surface, which cannot be replaced from below.
+And any circulation of the layers of water at different temperatures, by
+reason of their unequal specific gravities, seems to be very much
+interrupted by the narrowness and sinuousity of the passage. The
+intermitting springs of Iceland are probably caused by the existence of
+caverns, in which the vapor is retained by the pressure of the column of
+water in the channel which leads to the surface. Here this vapor
+collects, and presses the water in the cavern downward until its elastic
+force becomes sufficiently great to effect a passage through the column
+of water which confines it. The violent escape of the vapor causes the
+thunder-like subterranean sound and the trembling of the earth which
+precedes each eruption. The vapors do not appear at the surface until
+they have heated the water to their own temperature.
+
+"'When so much vapor has escaped that the expansive force of that which
+remains has become less than the pressure of the confining column of
+water, tranquility is restored, and this lasts until such a quantity of
+vapor is again collected as to produce a fresh eruption. The spouting of
+the spring is therefore repeated at intervals, depending on the
+capacity of the cavern, the height of the column of water, and the heat
+generated below.'" Dr. Peal continues:
+
+"Bishof says that the eruptions of the Geyser and Strockr agree exactly
+with this explanation and he accounts for the two distinct classes of
+eruption observed in the Geyser as follows:
+
+"'The two distinct classes of eruption in the geyser which we have
+already mentioned seem to be attributable to two different cavities. A
+small cavity fills quicker, and, therefore, empties itself more
+frequently; a larger one fills slower, empties itself seldomer, but with
+greater violence.'"
+
+Bunsen's theory is the next considered and is somewhat similar to
+Bischof's but with notable differences. After taking temperatures at
+different points in the Geyser tube his first conclusions are that:
+
+(1) The temperature in the geyser tube increases as we descend.
+
+(2) At no point does the water in the tube attain the temperature of
+ebullition which it should have under the pressure to which it is
+subjected, but the temperature depends on the time that has elapsed
+since the last eruption. As a great eruption comes near it approaches
+the boiling point.
+
+(3) At the depth of about forty-five feet the difference between the
+temperature of the water and the calculated boiling point for that
+pressure is the least.
+
+The main point of his theory appears to be that an eruption takes place
+when the water in the tube reaches the boiling point, and to account for
+it, "He supposes that the column in the central tube communicates by a
+long and sinuous channel with some space, be it what it may, which is
+subjected to the action of the direct source of subterranean heat. The
+temperature gets raised above the boiling point, due to the pressure,
+and a sudden generation of steam is the result. This steam rises in the
+column of water, which, being cooler, causes it to condense. Gradually
+the heat of the water is raised until the water of the channel must
+boil, and the steam therefore cannot condense, but must accumulate and
+acquire a gradually increasing tension. The condensation of the bubbles
+possesses a periodic character, and to this is due the uplifting of the
+water in what Bunsen calls conical water hills, which are accompanied by
+the subterranean explosions."
+
+Prof. Comstock is quoted as thinking "Bunsen's theory has not yet been
+proved adequate to explain the more prominent features of geyser
+eruptions. Nor does it, in his opinion, account for all the differences
+between geysers and hot springs, and he proposes a structural
+hypothesis which combines Bischof's and Bunsen's theories."
+
+This hypothesis is illustrated by a figure in which a reservoir partly
+filled with water is connected with the surface by a tube having a
+double curve, and he explains that the water collecting in the depressed
+curve should confine the steam, rising from the reservoir in the other
+curve until the pressure is sufficient to cause an eruption. His theory
+of action being that the water in the reservoir remains in equilibrium
+at a certain level, and the constant heat fills the space above with
+vapor, which heats the water held in the downward bend of the tube, and
+that also evolves vapor which fills the balance of the tube to the vent.
+When the combined pressure of this vapor and water are overcome by the
+expansion of vapor accumulated above the reservoir, they are forced out,
+and followed by a portion of the water of the reservoir. This theory is
+in the report of Captain Jones on Northwestern Wyoming.
+
+The last theory cited by Dr. Peal is that of S. Baring-Gould, "Who
+visited the Iceland geysers in 1863, and thinks that a bent tube is
+sufficient to explain the action of the Great Geyser. He took an iron
+tube and bent it in an angle of 110°, keeping one arm half the length of
+the other. He filled the tube with water and placed the short arm in the
+fire. For a moment the surface of the liquid remained quiet, and then
+the pipe began to quiver; a slight overflow took place, without any sign
+of ebullition, and then suddenly, with a throb, the whole column was
+forced high into the air. With a tube, the long arm of which measured
+two feet and the bore of which was three-eighths of an inch, he sent a
+jet to the height of eighteen feet. Steam is generated in the short arm
+and presses down the water, causing an overflow until the steam bubble
+turns the angle, when it forces out the column in the long arm with
+incredible violence."
+
+Dr. Peal now goes on to say:
+
+"Of the theories that we have just enumerated, perhaps no one is
+adequate to explain all the phenomena of geyser action. Bunsen's theory
+comes nearest to it, and in the simplest kinds of geysers is a
+sufficient explanation. The variations and modifications in the geyser
+tubes and subterranean water passages must undoubtedly be important
+factors entering into any complete explanation of geyser action. Now, of
+course, we can see what the conditions are at the surface, but in our
+experiments we can penetrate to a very inconsiderable distance. We have,
+therefore, no data to present on these points, and investigations of
+this branch of the subject will have to be carried on in an artificial
+manner; that is artificial geysers will have to be constructed, and
+various modifications made in the tubes until results are reached
+analogous to those seen in natural geysers. If water in a glass tube be
+heated with rapidity from the bottom, it will be expelled from the tube
+violently, and if boiled in a kettle which has a lid and a spout, either
+the lid will be blown off or the water will be forced out through the
+spout. The first case is an illustration, in part at least, of Bunsen's
+theory, and the second exemplifies the theories which presuppose the
+existence of subterranean cavities with tubes at or near the surface.
+According to the former we must suppose that the layer of rock,
+extending seventy-five to seventy-seven feet below the surface, contains
+sufficient heat to account for geyseric phenomena; or else that the
+geyser tube has some opening, either at the bottom or on the sides, by
+which steam and superheated water have access to it from a considerably
+greater depth where the temperature is very high. At these depths
+caverns probably exist." * * * *
+
+"That such cavities exist is more than probable. On page 405 I have
+indicated my belief, that all geysers are originally due to a violent
+outburst of steam and water, and under such conditions, irregular
+cavities and passages are more likely to be formed than regular
+tubes." * *
+
+"In view of what we have just written, Bunsen's conclusion (No. 2)
+would have to be modified somewhat. His conclusion was that at no point
+in the tube did the water attain the temperature of ebullition which it
+should have under the pressure to which it is subjected. As far as this
+relates to the straight tube in which his temperatures were taken, it
+may be so; but if he could have taken temperatures in the side conduit,
+I have little doubt he would soon have reached a point where the
+temperature would not only be at the boiling point for that depth but
+even exceed it. In the Yellowstone Park we obtained a number of surface
+temperatures which were above the boiling point. In the Great Geyser of
+Iceland, the mass of water in the tube prevents this condition at the
+surface, and when it takes place opposite the aperture an eruption is
+caused. In the main, however, I am inclined to accept Bunsen's theory,
+especially as it seems to me to require subterranean cavities in which
+the water must be heated. Whether these are caverns, enlargements of
+tubes, or sinus channels, appears to me to be of no consequence, except
+as the interval or period of the geyser might be affected by the form of
+the reservoir holding the water."
+
+Dr. Peal has reached conclusions which present an imaginary picture of
+the interior structure of the great geysers of the Park, that bears a
+striking resemblance to what the two caves of the Black Hills prove to
+be the true conditions; although it is evident he had in mind caverns of
+no such vast extent, nor of so complicated a system of cavities and
+tubes. He overlooked an important feature, however, in not accepting
+Professor Comstock's idea of the tube having a double curve. The double
+curve is, or was, conspicuous in both the caves. Unfortunately, its
+perfection in Wind Cave was necessarily partially sacrificed to make the
+passage traversable for visitors; but in describing the enormous labor
+of opening up the cave, Mr. McDonald showed how an arching "crawl" had
+been worked down by blasting, and the depression beyond filled to raise
+it to the desired level for securing the present easy passage at the
+bottom of the main tube, which is the entrance passage. This double
+curve in the tube is simply the rough original of the S trap of sanitary
+plumbing. In both caves it is somewhat irregular and deformed, but the
+familiar "trap" is easily recognized. The destruction of one of the
+Yellowstone geysers was, no doubt, due to the breaking of the S. One of
+the many reasons for establishing military control over the Park is said
+to have been the disastrous results following the introduction of a
+large quantity of soap into the geyser to cause a premature eruption.
+The impatience of the party was rewarded by an eruption accompanied by
+explosions that shook the earth for a great distance, and the geyser has
+not been seen in action since.
+
+Dr. Peal finds the theories advanced for the generation of steam
+unsatisfactory and insufficient, especially in the class of geysers
+having a long steam period. He says: (page 423)
+
+"The Castle Geyser differs from Old Faithful and the Bee Hive mainly in
+the fact that it has a long steam period, during which the steam pours
+out or is pushed from the geyser throat with great violence and a
+terrific noise. There appear to be only two possible explanations of
+this difference, viz., either an accumulation of immense volumes of
+steam in the Castle, or an instantaneous formation of steam throughout
+the length of the geyser tube. The former, to our mind, is untenable,
+because it seems impossible that the water, which is exhausted in
+fifteen minutes, should exert enough power to keep down the immense
+amount of steam that escapes for more than an hour. According to
+Bunsen's theory, it can be readily explained. The relief afforded by the
+first part of the eruptions allows the superheated water to rise
+rapidly, and before it can reach the top or orifice of the tube it is
+all converted into steam from the top downward with inconceivable
+rapidity, and must be forced out with the terrific violence which is
+noted in the case of the Castle. On page 208 we have expressed the
+opinion that it is the oldest geyser in the region, and it seems to us
+that a greater length in the tube, with a consequent greater supply of
+water, will account for the difference between the Castle and Old
+Faithful, the latter of which we consider one of the youngest geysers in
+the Upper Geyser Basin."
+
+A study of the Caves in connection with the active Geysers indicates
+that the theory he suggests and then rejects, is probably the true
+explanation of the difference between the two kinds of geysers. It seems
+that the length of the tube must necessarily have more effect on the
+height of the jet than on the generation of steam; as after an eruption
+the tube is hotter than at any other time and therefore the generation
+of steam in it should be less than usual, unless the fresh inflow of
+water was cold. Then if the storage cavities are broad but low, the
+steam cannot accumulate above the water; but when the pressure becomes
+sufficient to force a passage through the tube, the water and steam are
+expelled together until the pressure is exhausted. But if the storage
+chambers are vertical fissures, as Wind Cave illustrates, vast
+quantities of steam must accumulate above the water level in the main
+reservoirs before the pressure can become sufficient to expel the water
+in the tube, after which steam alone continues to rush out until the
+pressure is so relieved that it can no longer force a passage through
+the water remaining in the trap, when quiet is restored. By the constant
+addition of fresh water from the surface, by percolation or other usual
+ways of sinking, the necessary conditions for the generation of steam
+are maintained with surprising regularity.
+
+The differences in the shape and general arrangement of the cavities and
+tubes of the two caves, indicate that their action as geysers was very
+unlike. Wind Cave evidently sent a rather slender column to a great
+height, nearly perpendicular, and the water eruption was followed by a
+long steam period. Crystal Cave ejected a much larger jet more
+frequently, at a low angle of inclination, the eruption was sooner over,
+and was not followed by a steam period of any consequence.
+
+Thus it can be seen that the caves of the Black Hills prove the theories
+in regard to geyser action in Yellowstone Park, and those theories, in
+turn, prove the past history of the caves. The study of geyser action
+also shows that the conical or dome shape of some of the cave chambers
+is not due to the whirl of incoming floods, as in other regions, but to
+jets of water forced up from lower levels.
+
+Perhaps the finest geyser basin, and possible cave, ever in existence
+was destroyed when the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone became a cañon.
+Evidences of the former conditions in control of this gorgeously
+brilliant scene are neither wanting nor doubtful. Steam constantly
+issues from numerous small vents in the cañon walls, and a field glass
+reveals miniature geysers in action down in the depth of the cañon,
+nearly half a mile below the top of the wall; while the entire cañon
+shows, in both the color and character of its rocks, that chemical
+agencies have wrought changes here that have not been effected in other
+exposures of similar nature. It seems not improbable that the relation
+of Yellowstone River to the Grand Cañon was the same as, at the present
+time, is that of the Firehole to the Upper, Middle, and Lower Geyser
+Basins: and that an explosion of great force was followed by a general
+collapse instead of the usual eruption of one of the grandest geysers;
+one result being the sudden precipitation of the river into a new,
+beautiful, and totally unexpected channel. After its great leap of two
+hundred and ninety-seven[6] feet at the Lower Fall, the river flows in a
+brilliant, narrow line of emerald green, broken by the white foam of
+frequent cascades, between magnificent walls of yellow, white, pink, and
+red of most vivid hues.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[6] Measurement by the Hayden Party.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK
+HILLS***
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills, by Luella Agnes Owen</title>
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills,
+by Luella Agnes Owen</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills</p>
+<p>Author: Luella Agnes Owen</p>
+<p>Release Date: December 19, 2005  [eBook #17354]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Stacy Brown Thellend<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (https://www.pgdp.net/)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h1 class="padtop"><span class="smcap">Cave Regions</span></h1>
+<h4><span class="smcap">of the</span></h4>
+<h1><span class="smcap">Ozarks and Black Hills</span></h1>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;">
+<img src="images/illo2.jpg" width="50" height="51" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h5>BY</h5>
+
+<h2>LUELLA AGNES OWEN.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;">
+<img src="images/illo2.jpg" width="50" height="51" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 25%; margin-right: 25%;"><i>Membre titulaire de la Soci&eacute;t&eacute; de Sp&eacute;l&eacute;ologie, and
+Fellow of the American Geographical Society.</i></p>
+
+
+<h5>CINCINNATI.<br />
+THE EDITOR PUBLISHING CO.<br />
+1898.</h5>
+
+<div class="blockquot padtop">
+<p>The illustrations for this volume are from photographs by the following
+artists:</p>
+
+<p>The Views of Marble Cave, by Stone &amp; De Groff, Warrensburg, Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>The Tower of Babel, The Chimes, The Knife Blade, The Needle, The Bridal
+Veil, by Meddaugh, of Leadville, So. Dakota.</p>
+
+<p>Top of Glacier, by L.&nbsp;W. Marble, Wind Cave, So. Dakota.</p>
+
+<p>White Onyx Masses, Fairies' Palace, by J.&nbsp;W. Pike, Hot Springs, So.
+Dakota.</p>
+
+<p>The Wilderness Pinery, by D. Benton Miller, Alton, Missouri.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching Deadwood, by H.&nbsp;R. Locke &amp; Co., Deadwood, So. Dakota.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 60%; margin-bottom: 1em;" />
+<h5 style="margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<span class="smcap">Copyrighted</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">The Editor Publishing Company.</span><br />
+1898.</h5>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo1.jpg" width="400" height="615" alt="Entrance to Marble Cave." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Entrance to Marble Cave. <a href="#Page_25">Page 25.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 60%; margin-top: 1em;" />
+
+
+<p class="center padtop">
+TO<br />
+MY MOTHER<br />
+THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY<br />
+DEDICATED.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
+<table class="center" summary="toc">
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td></td>  <td class="left">CHAPTER.</td>         <td class="right">PAGE.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft" style="width: 20%;">I</td>  <td class="left">A General View</td>                 <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">II</td> <td class="left">Marble Cave</td>                   <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">III</td> <td class="left">Marble Cave Continued</td>         <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">IV</td> <td class="left">Fairy Cave and Powell Cave</td>    <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">V</td> <td class="left">Other Stone County Caves</td>      <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">VI</td> <td class="left">Oregon County Caves</td>           <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">VII</td> <td class="left">The Grand Gulf</td>                <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">VIII</td> <td class="left">The Black Hills and Bad Lands</td><td class="botright"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">IX</td> <td class="left">Wind Cave</td>                    <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_113">113</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">X</td> <td class="left">Wind Cave Continued</td>          <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XI</td>  <td class="left">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"</td>             <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XII</td>  <td class="left">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Concluded</td>         <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_151">151</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XIII</td> <td class="left">The Onyx Caves</td>               <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XIV</td> <td class="left">Crystal Cave</td>                 <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_175">175</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XV</td>   <td class="left">"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;"&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Concluded</td>       <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_183">183</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="topleft">XVI</td> <td class="left">Conclusion</td>                   <td class="botright"><a href="#Page_211">211</a></td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" class="padtop" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+<h2><span class="smcap">Cave Regions of</span></h2>
+
+<h1>THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS.</h1>
+
+
+
+<h2 class="padtop">CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h3>A GENERAL VIEW.</h3>
+
+<table class="center" summary="toc">
+<tbody>
+<tr><td>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O'er mountains bright with snow and light,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We crystal hunters speed along,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">While grots, and caves, and icy waves,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Each instant echo to our song;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And when we meet with stores of gems<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We grudge not kings their diadems."<br /></span>
+<span style="margin-left: 8em;">&mdash;<i>Thomas Moore</i>.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+</td></tr></tbody></table>
+
+
+<p>The southern half of the State of Missouri, and the Black Hills of South
+Dakota, offer exceptionally delightful regions for the study of caves,
+or Speleology as it has been named, and the sister sciences of geology
+and geography at the same time. In fact it is impossible to study either
+without giving attention to the other two, and therefore, instead of
+being separate sciences, they are the three branches of a great
+scientific trinity.</p>
+
+<p>The regions here referred to enjoy the advan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">2</a></span>tage, and at the same time
+suffer the disadvantage, of being comparatively little known to the ever
+restless tide of tourists who naturally hail with pleasure the
+announcement that some easily accessible, and thoroughly charming spot,
+has escaped their attention altogether, with a marvelous store of
+attractions which are both extremely old and wholly new.</p>
+
+<p>Each of these regions has a peculiar geological history not repeated in
+any other portions of the earth's surface: each is blessed with its own
+peculiar style of beautiful scenery: and each vies with the other and
+all the world besides for the supremacy of its truly wonderful caves.
+Yet it should be well understood that the claims are not based on an
+unworthy spirit of rivalry, nor any desire to deny the greatness and
+beauty of already famous members of the Cave family. It is simply an
+announcement that the family is much larger than has been generally
+supposed, and the more recently presented members worthy of the full
+measure of distinguished honors.</p>
+
+<p>The geological authorities of both states have for many years mentioned
+the beauty and importance of these regions, and urged their claims to
+public attention, but have been prevented, by the pressure of other
+duties, from giving to the caves such careful study and full reports as
+they deserve, as it would have been a pleasure to give, and as has been
+possible in states of less<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">3</a></span> extent where the general work of the
+department is more advanced, and the volume of tourist travel created an
+early demand for scientific explanation.</p>
+
+<p>Without any great difficulty we can understand the process of cave
+excavation by the action of percolating acidulated water on the
+limestone, and its subsequent removal as the volume of surface drainage
+diverted to the new channel gradually increased. But it is not so easy
+to offer a reason for the varied forms with which the caves are
+afterwards decorated. Why is it the charmed waters do not leave the
+evidence of their slow passage only in plain surfaces of varying widths,
+and the stalactites and stalagmites whose formation we can readily
+account for? And why do not the deposits take the same forms in all
+caves with only such variations as would naturally result from
+differences in topography? The law is written, but in unfamiliar
+characters that render our reading slow and uncertain. Yet it is
+conspicuously noticeable that those caves showing the most delicately
+fragile and wonderfully varied forms of decoration are those traversed
+by the most sweeping and changeable, or even reversible, currents of
+air; which might lead to the conclusion that the moisture is sprayed or
+converted into a light, misty vapor, and then deposited in exactly the
+same manner as the beautiful frost-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">4</a></span>work at Niagara: the direction and
+force of the current determining the location of the frail deposits.</p>
+
+<p>Since the largest and most important caves occur in limestone, a little
+special attention to the cause of their occurrence there may serve to
+show that although speleology has only recently received its name and
+been elevated to the rank of a separate and independent science, it is
+one of the earth's ancient institutions.</p>
+
+<p>Our geologists, who have unearthed many secrets not dreamed of even in
+Humboldt's "good phylosopy," have settled the question of how the
+different kinds of caves were formed, according to the character of
+rocks they are in, or their location and depth, and the natural agencies
+to whose action they show signs of having been subjected.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. H.&nbsp;C. Hovey, in his "Celebrated American Caverns," says: "In visiting
+caves of large extent, one is at first inclined to regard the long
+halls, huge rifts, deep pits and lofty domes, as evidences of great
+convulsions of nature, whereby the earth has been violently rent
+asunder. But, while mechanical forces have had their share in the work,
+as has been shown, the main agent in every case has been the
+comparatively gentle, invisible gas known as carbonic acid. This is
+generated by the decay of animal and vegetable substances, and is to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">5</a></span>
+considerable degree soluble in water. Under ordinary circumstances one
+measure of water will absorb one measure of carbonic acid; and the eye
+will detect no difference in its appearance. Under pressure the power of
+absorption is rapidly increased, until the water thus surcharged has an
+acid taste, and effervesces on flowing from the earth, as in Saratoga
+water.</p>
+
+<p>"Rain-water, falling amid leaves and grass, and sinking into the soil,
+absorbs large quantities of carbonic acid. On reaching the underlying
+limestone, the latter is instantly attacked by the acidulated water in
+which it is dissolved and carried away.</p>
+
+<p>"It is agreed among geologists, amazing as the statement may seem, that
+the immense caverns of Virginia, Kentucky and Indiana, including Mammoth
+Cave itself (the largest of all), were eaten out of the solid mass of
+limestone by the slow, patient, but irresistible action of acidulated
+water."</p>
+
+<p>Professor N.&nbsp;S. Shaler says: "The existence of deep caverns is a sign
+that the region has long been above the sea."</p>
+
+<p>Through the kindness of Professor C.&nbsp;J. Norwood, Chief Inspector and
+Curator of the Geological Department of Kentucky, it is possible to
+quote the first official report made on the caves of that state and
+published in 1856, in Volume I., Kentucky Geological Survey Reports.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">6</a></span>
+Dr. Norwood says: "Referring to the 'Subcarboniferous Limestone' (now
+known as the St. Louis group of the Mississippian series), Dr. Owen
+says: 'The southern belt of this formation is wonderfully cavernous,
+especially in its upper beds, which being more argillaceous, and
+impregnated with earths and alkalies, are disposed to produce salts,
+which oozing through the pores of the stone effloresce on its surface,
+and thus tend to disintegrate and scale off, independent of the solvent
+effects of the carbonated water. Beneath overhanging ledges of
+limestone, quantities of fine earthy rubbish can be seen, weathered off
+from such causes. In these I have detected sulphate of lime, sulphate of
+magnesia, nitrate of lime, and occasionally sulphate of soda. The
+tendency which some calcareous rocks have to produce nitrate of lime is,
+probably, one of the greatest causes of disintegration.'"</p>
+
+<p>"Most extensive subterranean areas thus have been excavated or
+undermined in Edmonson, Hart, Grayson, Butler, Logan, Todd, Christian
+and Trig. In the vicinity of Green River, in the first of these
+counties, the known avenues of the Mammoth Cave amount to two hundred
+and twenty-three, the united length of the whole being estimated, by
+those best acquainted with the Cave, at one hundred and fifty miles; say
+that the average width and height of these<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">7</a></span> passages amount to seven
+yards each way, which is perhaps near the truth; this would give upwards
+of twelve million cubic yards of cavernous space which has been
+excavated through the agency of calcareous waters and atmospheric
+vicissitudes."</p>
+
+<p>Page 169: "On the south side of Green River the platform of limestone
+forming the descent into Mammoth Cave is two hundred and thirty-two feet
+above Green River."</p>
+
+<p>"The entrance to the cave, being thirty-eight feet lower than this bed
+of limestone, is one hundred and ninety-four feet above Green River. In
+the above two hundred and thirty-two feet there are several heavy masses
+of sandstone, viz.: at one hundred and twenty-five, one hundred and
+forty-five, one hundred and fifty, one hundred and sixty and two hundred
+and fifteen feet, but it is probable that most of these have tumbled
+from higher positions in the hill, as no alterations of sandstone have
+been observed at these levels in the cave. From an elevation of from two
+hundred and forty to two hundred and fifty feet, the prevalent rock is
+sandstone without pebbles, which can be seen extending up to three
+hundred and twelve feet to the foundation of the Cave Hotel. The united
+thickness of the limestone beds on this part of Green River, is about
+two hun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">8</a></span>dred and thirty feet, capped with eighty feet of sandstone.
+About midway of the section on this part of Green River, are limestones
+of an obscure oolitic structure, but no true oolite was observed. Many
+of these limestones are of such composition as to be acted on freely by
+the elements of the atmosphere, which, in the form of nitric acid,
+combine with the earthy and alkaline bases of calcareous rock, and give
+rise to the formation of nitrates with the liberation of carbonic acid;
+hence the disintegrated rubbish of the caves yields nitrate of potash
+after being treated with the ley of ashes and subsequent evaporation of
+the saline lixivium. The wonderfully cavernous character of the
+subcarboniferous limestones of the Green River valley, and, indeed, of
+these particular members of the subcarboniferous group throughout a
+great part of its range in Kentucky and Indiana, is due in a great
+measure to this cause, together with the solvent and eroding effects of
+water charged with carbonic acid. The 'rock-houses' frequently
+encountered both in this formation and in the limestones of Silurian
+date, are produced by similar causes; the more easily disintegrated beds
+gradually crumbling away, while the more durable remain in overhanging
+ledges. By the oxidation of other elements, sulphates of oxide of iron
+and alkalies result, which, by double<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">9</a></span> decomposition, with carbonate of
+lime, give rise to the formation of gypsums which appears in the form of
+rosettes, festoons and various other imitative forms on the walls and
+ceilings of the caves. Crystallizations of sulphate of soda and sulphate
+of magnesia are not uncommon, both in some of the caves and in sheltered
+situations under shelving rocks."</p>
+
+<p>The explanations thus given of the excavation and subsequent refilling
+and decoration of the limestone caves of Kentucky and Indiana apply
+equally well to those of other states; but it is to be remembered that
+at the time of Dr. Owen's report, onyx, the most beautiful and valuable
+of dripstones, had not yet been discovered in the United States; while
+now especially fine deposits are known in California, Utah, Missouri,
+South Dakota and Arkansas; the Missouri supply being exceptionally
+valuable on account of the marvelous delicacy and beauty of its
+coloring; nor can it soon be exhausted, as deposits have been found in
+eight counties and further exploration will no doubt discover more.</p>
+
+<p>Concerning the Subcarboniferous, or Mississippian Series in Part I.,
+Vol. IV., Missouri Geological Survey, Dr. C.&nbsp;R. Keyes says: "In the great
+interior basin of the Mississippi the basal series is exposed more or
+less continuously over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">10</a></span> broad areas, extending from northern Iowa to
+Alabama, and from Ohio to Mexico."</p>
+
+<p>While this broadly extended series of limestone is honey-combed in many
+places and all directions by wonderful caverns, those of the Ozark
+regions in Missouri, although comparatively little known, are well worth
+knowing, and are possibly the most ancient limestone caves in the world.
+Of the region in which they occur, Dr. Keyes, in the volume last quoted,
+says: "The chief typographical feature of the state has long been known
+in the Ozark uplift, a broad plateau with gentle quaquaversal slopes
+rising to a height of more than one thousand five hundred feet above
+mean tide, and extending almost entirely across the southern part of the
+district. On all sides the borders of this highland area are deeply
+grooved by numberless streams flowing in narrow gorges. Against its
+nucleus of very ancient granites and porphyries the Ozark series of
+magnesian limestone was laid down. Then the area occupied by these rocks
+was elevated, and around its margins were deposited successively the
+other members of the Paleozoic. The Ozark region was thus the first land
+to appear within the borders of the present state of Missouri." He
+further says: "Although it has long been known that the Magnesian
+Limestones are older than the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">11</a></span> Trenton, and that they lie immediately
+upon and against the Arch&aelig;an crystallines unconformably, their exact
+geological age has always remained unsettled. There seems to be but
+little doubt, however, that part of the series is equivalent to the
+Calciferous of other regions. It is also pretty well determined that
+certain of the lower beds, all below the 'Saccharoidal' Sandstone
+perhaps, are representatives of the Upper Cambrian or Potsdam. These
+conclusions appear well grounded both upon stratigraphical and faunal
+evidence. The rocks of the Ozark region have not as yet received the
+necessary detailed study to enable the several lines of demarkation to
+be drawn with certainty. This investigation is now being carried on as
+rapidly as possible, and promises very satisfactory and interesting
+results in the near future."</p>
+
+<p>"The early geological reports represent the Magnesian Limestone series
+as made up of seven members. Following Swallow, these may be briefly
+described in the present connection. Beginning at the top, they are:</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 2em;">
+First Magnesian Limestone.<br />
+First, or Saccharoidal Sandstone.<br />
+Second Magnesian Limestone.<br />
+Second Sandstone.<br />
+Third Magnesian Limestone.<br />
+Third Sandstone.<br />
+Fourth Limestone."<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">12</a></span>
+"The Fourth" Magnesian Limestone, or lowest number of the Ozark series
+recognized, has its typical exposures along the Niangua and Osage rivers
+in Morgan and Camden counties.</p>
+
+<p>Professor Swallow, in his Missouri Geological Survey Reports I. and II.,
+1853 and 1854, says: "Caves, natural bridges and subterranean streams
+occur in the valley of the Osage and its tributaries." The same
+authority of forty years ago also mentions that "Some of the grandest
+scenery in the State is produced by the high castellated and mural
+bluffs of this (Third Magnesian Limestone) Formation, on the Niangua and
+the Osage." Another reference to the scenery on these rivers describes
+it as "Wild and grand, beautiful and unique;" with "gaudy-colored
+bluffs." In the section on building materials he remarks: "One of the
+most desirable of the Missouri marbles is in the Third Magnesian
+Limestone on the Niangua. It is fine-grained, crystalline,
+silico-magnesian limestone of a light drab, slightly tinged with
+peach-blossom, and beautifully clouded with the same hue or flesh color.
+It is twenty feet thick and crops out in the bluffs. This marble is
+rarely surpassed in the qualities which fit it for ornamental
+architecture."</p>
+
+<p>The Ozarks in the extreme southern portion of the state are even less
+known to the world, but the scenery is grand, the climate delightful,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">13</a></span>
+and the caves worthy of a visit for themselves alone. The State of
+Missouri being one third larger than England, and of equal size to
+Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and Denmark combined, it is not surprising
+that interesting discoveries are still to be expected.</p>
+
+<p>The climate is so varied on account of the range in latitude and
+altitude, and the natural resources are so great, the claim has been
+made that if the State were surrounded by an impassable wall, its
+citizens need not be deprived of any article necessary to a refined and
+luxurious mode of living: and according to Mr. Henry Gannett in "The
+Building of a Nation," the population in 1890 was 73.42 per cent. native
+whites of native parents, the colored a little less than 6 per cent.,
+and nearly two-thirds of the balance, native born of parents, one or
+both of whom were foreign.</p>
+
+<p>Although the Ozark region has not yet received sufficient attention to
+dull its charm for the explorer, the fact has been established that its
+earliest sedimentary rocks are of the Cambrian Age and still occupy
+mainly the position in which they were originally deposited. Therefore
+we need not be surprised to discover that some, at least, of the
+excavations are proportionately ancient; and that the Natural Bridges
+are the last remaining positive evidence of their former existence and
+final collapse. That the Natural<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">14</a></span> Bridges of Missouri mark the
+destruction of more ancient caves than the one preserved to geological
+history by Virginia's grand attraction, seems quite evident. The greater
+age of the rocks indicates the possibility of earlier excavation while
+their undisturbed position suggests that destruction resulted, not from
+violent earth movement, but from the slow action of agencies requiring
+long periods of time.</p>
+
+<p>Before proceeding to a discussion of the caves visited personally for
+the gratification of private interest, it is desirable to know what
+attention has been given to the subject, incidentally, in the course of
+regular official duty on the Missouri Geological Survey.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">CAVES DESCRIBED IN THE STATE REPORTS.</p>
+
+<p>Although many unknown caves must yet be discovered in the imperfectly
+explored portions of the vast Ozark forests, these finds are already so
+numerous as to seldom attract attention according to their just
+desserts.</p>
+
+<p>One of the comparatively recent of these discoveries is Crystal Cave, at
+Joplin, described on page 566, Vol. VII., Missouri Geological Survey
+Report 1894.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">1</a> It was opened in the lower workings of a shaft of the
+Empire Zinc Company, and "The entire surface of the cave, top, sides and
+bottom, is lined with calcite crystals, so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">15</a></span>closely packed together as
+to form a continuous sheet and most of them of great size, and well
+formed faces. Scalenohedra as much as two feet long are sometimes seen,
+and others a foot or more in length are common. Planes or crystal
+ghosts, sometimes with pyrite crystals, marking stages of growth in the
+calcite crystals, are often distinguishable. The entire absence of
+anything like stalactites is noticeable, and together with the presence
+of the crystals, show that the cave was completely filled with water
+during their growth." In the same volume, all those counties in the
+extreme southwest corner of the state, whose geological age has not
+heretofore been considered positively determined, are mapped as Lower
+Carboniferous, and Lower Silurian, with the Coal Measures covering
+portions of Barton and Jasper and appearing in a few small, scattered
+spots in Dade, Polk, Green and Christian counties, and some scanty lines
+of Devonian fringing the edges of the Silurian in Barton and McDonald.</p>
+
+<p>Other State reports make mention of many caves and fine springs, and
+also several natural bridges worthy of special notice. In Mr. G.&nbsp;C.
+Broadhead's report for 1873-1874, he gives a short but interesting
+chapter on caves and water supplies, in which he says that "Caves occur
+in the Third Magnesian Limestone, Saccharoidal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span> Sandstone, Trenton,
+Lithographic, Encrinital and St. Louis Limestone."</p>
+
+<p>"In Eastern and Northeast Missouri there have not been found many large
+caves in the Encrinital Limestone, but the lower beds of this formation
+in Southwest Missouri often enclose very large caverns; among the latter
+may be included the caves of Green County with some in Christian and
+McDonald. Those in McDonald I have not seen, but they are reported to be
+very extensive and probably are situated in the Encrinital Limestone."</p>
+
+<p>Under the head of "Special Descriptions" he says: "On Sac River, in the
+north part of Green County, we find a cave with two entrances, one at
+the foot of a hill, opening toward Sac River, forty-five feet high and
+eighty feet wide. The other entrance is from the hill-top, one hundred
+and fifty feet back from the face of the bluff. These two passages
+unite. The exact dimensions of the cave are not known, but there are
+several beautiful and large rooms lined with stalactites and stalagmites
+which often assume both beautiful and grotesque life-like forms. The
+cave has been explored for several hundred yards, showing the formations
+to be thick silicious beds of the Lower Carboniferous formations."</p>
+
+<p>"Knox cave, in Green County, is said to be of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span> large dimensions. I have
+not seen it, but some of its stalactites are quite handsome."</p>
+
+<p>"Wilson's Creek sinks beneath the Limestone and appears again below."</p>
+
+<p>"There are several caves near Ozark, Christian County, which issue from
+the same formation as those in Green County. On a branch of Finly Creek
+a stream disappears in a sink, appearing again three-quarters of a mile
+southeast through an opening sixty feet high by ninety-eight feet wide.
+Up stream the cave continues this size for a hundred yards and then
+decreases in size, and for the next quarter of a mile further it is
+generally ten by fourteen feet wide. A very clear, cool stream passes
+out, in which by careful search crawfish without eyes can be found."</p>
+
+<p>"There is another cave a few miles south of Ozark, and another ten miles
+southeast occurs in the Magnesian Limestone."</p>
+
+<p>"In Boone County there are several caves in the Encrinital Limestone.
+Conner's, the largest, is said to have been explored for a distance of
+eight miles."</p>
+
+<p>"In Pike and Lincoln there are several small caves occurring in the
+upper beds of Trenton Limestone, which are often very cavernous. On
+Sulphur Fork of Cuivre, there is a cave and Natural Bridge, to which
+parties for pleasure often resort. The bridge is tubular with twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">18</a></span>
+feet between the walls, and is one hundred feet long."</p>
+
+<p>"At J.&nbsp;P. Fisher's on Spencer Creek, Ralls County, there is a cave having
+an entrance of ninety feet wide by twenty feet high. The Lower Trenton
+beds occupy the floor, with the upper cavernous beds above. On the
+bluff, at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards back, there is a
+sink-hole which communicates with the cave. Within the cave is a cool,
+clear spring of water, and Mr. F. said he could keep meat fresh there
+for six weeks during midsummer."</p>
+
+<p>"The Third Magnesian Limestone which occupies such a large portion of
+Southwest Missouri, often contains very large caves. One of them, known
+as Friede's cave, is six or eight miles Northwest of Rolla, on Cave
+Spring Creek."</p>
+
+<p>"It is said to have been explored for several miles, but I only passed
+in a few hundred yards. The stalactites here are very beautiful,
+assuming the structure of satin spar. A very clear stream of water
+issues out. West of the Gasconade, on Clifty Creek, is a remarkable
+Natural Bridge which I have elsewhere described in Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 16."</p>
+
+<p>"Mr. Meek speaks of a large and interesting cave on Tavern Creek, in
+Miller County. Dr. Shumard estimates a cave on Bryant's Fork, in Ozark
+County, to be a mile and a half long."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">19</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This description of Dr. Shumard's is in the Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 196, where he says:</p>
+
+<p>"The entrance is thirty-five feet wide and thirty feet high, and is
+situated at the foot of a perpendicular cliff, and far above the
+water-level of Bryant. Just within the entrance it expands to sixty or
+seventy feet, with a height of about fifty feet; and this part of the
+cave has been used by the citizens of the county as a place for holding
+camp-meeting. I estimated its length at not far short of one mile and a
+half. The main passage is in general quite spacious, the roof elevated,
+and the floor tolerably level, but often wet and miry. For some distance
+beyond the entrance there is not much to attract attention; but as we
+proceed, at the far extremity the chambers are quite as picturesque as
+the most noted of the well-known Mammoth Cave. The ceilings, sides and
+floor are adorned with a multitude of stalactites and stalagmites
+arranged in fanciful combinations, and assuming a variety of fantastic
+and beautiful forms."</p>
+
+<p>Many of these caves contain niter, which occurs as a mineral and not as
+evidence of former animal occupation, it being found in the form of
+effervescenses on the walls. Dr. Shumard mentions several of this
+character in Pulaski County, the most noted being Niter Cave, in the
+Third Magnesian Limestone, with a wide<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">20</a></span> entrance thirty feet above the
+level of the Gasconade. On page 201, he also gives a charming
+description of one of the immense springs that are numerous in this
+region and that I have never seen elsewhere. He says:</p>
+
+<p>"Ozark County is bountifully supplied with springs of the finest water,
+and some of them of remarkably large size. The largest one is situated
+near the North Fork, in T. 24, R. 11 W., Sec. 32, and is known under the
+name of the Double Spring. It issues from near the base of a bluff of
+Sandstone and Magnesian Limestone, a few feet above the level of the
+North Fork. This spring discharges an immense volume of water, which is
+divided by a huge mass of Sandstone into two streams, with swift
+currents flowing in opposite directions to join the North Fork about one
+hundred and fifty yards distant from the spring. I estimated the width
+of these streams at not less than fifty yards. They are separated from
+the North Fork by a pretty wooded island one hundred yards long. The
+upper stream affords a good mill-site. I am informed that the quantity
+of water discharged by this magnificent spring is not materially
+diminished during the dryest seasons of the year. The temperature of the
+water measured at the edge of the spring, was found to be 56&deg;; the
+temperature of the air at the same time, 59&deg;. Other springs of
+considerable magnitude occur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">21</a></span> in various portions of the county, giving
+rise to beautiful and limpid streams."</p>
+
+<p>The descriptions of the Natural Bridge and Friede's cave, near Rolla,
+previously referred to as being on page 16 of the same volume, are as
+follows:</p>
+
+<p>"On Clifty Creek found the chert bed of Sec. 21-5 occurring about sixty
+feet from the top of the Third Magnesian Limestone, with a road passing
+over its upper surface, presenting it very favorably for observation. It
+seemed here to be broken by vertical cracks into large rhomboidal
+blocks. Further up this creek in a wild and secluded spot, observed a
+Natural Bridge with six feet of this chert bed at its base, and
+Silicious Magnesian Limestone above. The span of this bridge is about
+thirty feet, an elevation of opening about fifteen feet above the water,
+the thickness of the rock above is about twelve feet, and width on top
+about fifteen feet. Two small streams come together, one from the west
+and another from the south-west. A point of the bluff on the south-west
+fork spans the northern fork, and terminates about sixty feet beyond in
+a sharp point; a few large masses of rock lie near the termination of
+the promontory, and fifty feet beyond, the bluffs of the opposite hills
+rise abruptly from the bottoms. The bluffs, both above and below, are
+very precipitous, the middle and lower beds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span> of the Third Magnesian
+Limestone forming perpendicular escarpments, frequently studded with
+cedar, some occurring on top of the bridge. A perfectly clear stream of
+water courses through this valley. The bottoms near are overspread with
+a dense growth of trees and vines, among which latter I noticed the
+Muscadine grape. The valley at this part being shut in by its
+perpendicular cliffs with not a path to guide the traveler through the
+dense thickets, is wildly picturesque and romantic in its loneliness."</p>
+
+<p>Of the cave he says: "This cave is a quarter of a mile east of Cave
+Spring Creek, and has a wide and elevated entrance; passing into it a
+hundred yards or more, the passage narrows, and in order to go further a
+stream of water has frequently to be waded through; this passage has
+been followed by some persons several miles without finding any object
+of interest; but a few hundred yards from the entrance, by diverging to
+the right, we enter a large chamber, studded with stalactites and
+stalagmites, many uniting and forming solid columns of support. Many of
+these are very beautiful, and often as white as alabaster. There are
+other large rooms, but they possess no peculiar interest. Found large
+deposits of earth on the floor having a saline taste."</p>
+
+<p>Of the extensive pine forests in Ozark County, he says: "The size and
+quality of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> timber will compare favorably with that of the
+celebrated pineries of Wisconsin and Minnesota."</p>
+
+<p>In several other counties the pine is equally good, and other valuable
+timber everywhere abundant, although in a school geography published in
+1838, the following descriptions of this region occur:</p>
+
+<p>"The lowlands of the Mississippi are bounded by the region of the Ozark
+Mountains. With the exception of the alluvial tracts on the borders of
+the streams, it is extremely hilly and broken. The mountains rise from
+eight hundred to eighteen hundred feet above the streams, with rounded
+summits and often perpendicular cliffs, and have a rocky surface, which
+admits only a scanty growth of timber."&nbsp;*&nbsp; *</p>
+
+<p>"Missouri is generally a region of prairies and table lands, much of
+which, as already described, is almost destitute of timber and water. It
+is crossed by the Ozark Mountains, which form a rugged tract of
+considerable extent. Earthquakes are not infrequent in some parts of
+this state. The soil is not generally productive."</p>
+
+<p>A comparison of these curious views with the latest official reports is
+highly amusing, as well as suggestive that early impressions are liable
+to require modification.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">In addition to the wonderful springs of pure water, there are numerous
+fine mineral springs, among which are a number of Epsom salt springs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">24</a></span>
+At Jacksonville, in Randolph County, there is a large mineral spring
+from which it is said an over-heated horse may drink all he will without
+injury. Epsom-salts, or Epsomite, frequently occurs, as does the Niter,
+in a crystalline form of the pure mineral, as an efflorescence on rocks
+in many of the caves and in other sheltered positions.
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<a href="images/illo4.jpg"><img src="images/illo4_th.jpg" width="350" height="248" alt="The Surveyed Portions of Marble Cave." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">The Surveyed Portions of Marble Cave, Stone County, Missouri.</span>
+<span class="caption">Surveyed and Plotted by Fred Prince, 1894. Scale of 100 feet.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">1</span></a> Lead and Zinc. Prof. C.&nbsp;R. Keyes.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">25</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h3>MARBLE CAVE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Marble Cave, which is the finest yet explored in Missouri, is southeast
+of the center of Stone County, a short distance north of the picturesque
+White River. The nearest station is Marionville on the St. Louis and San
+Francisco railroad, and the drive of forty miles is delightful, but can
+be divided, into two of twenty each by a stop at Galena. The road, for
+the most part, is naturally macadamized and is through a most charming
+country whose roughness and beauty increase together as the journey
+advances. At first it winds along fertile valleys between wooded hills,
+crossing many times a shallow stream of water so clear as to afford no
+concealment for an occasional water-moccasin, whose bite is said to be
+not poisonous if inflicted under water, and which must be true because
+the horses showed not the least uneasiness.</p>
+
+<p>The second week in May found the vegetation in its summer beauty;
+strawberries were ripe, and the weather without a fault.</p>
+
+<p>Galena is pleasantly situated on the hills overlooking the James River,
+and is entirely <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">26</a></span>invisible from the road by which it is approached until
+a slight curve in the line of ascent ends the first half of the journey
+with surprising suddenness. In the immediate vicinity there are several
+small caves which are worthy of attention and will be described later
+on.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">To properly picture the twenty miles of changing and charming views
+between Galena and Marble Cave would require the light and skillful
+touch of a special artist gifted with a tangible perception of
+atmospheric values. Gradually the road forsakes the pretty valleys with
+their fields and streams, to take the summit of the hills and then be
+known as the "Ridge Road," which affords a wide range of vision not
+previously enjoyed, presenting scenes not to be found reproduced
+elsewhere with any degree of exactness. Looking into the depth of the
+forest as it slopes away on either side, the impression is of a
+magnificent park, undefaced by what are called improvements. This effect
+is produced by the scarcity, or entire absence of underbrush, and a
+beautiful surface covering of grasses or flowering plants of all kinds
+and colors, varied here and there with masses of ferns of unusual size
+and delicate beauty. The most unexpected and lavish feature of the rich
+display is the many miles of fragrant honeysuckle that grows only
+eighteen inches high in the forest shade, but if transplanted to a sunny
+spot develops into the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">27</a></span>familiar vine. The most beautiful portion of
+all this is called The Wilderness, and seems designed for a National
+Park. Such a park reserve, even if very small, could not fail to be a
+lasting pleasure, since it would be more accessible to large centers of
+population than other reserves, and its most delightful seasons are
+spring and autumn when the Yellowstone is under snow.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo5.jpg" width="450" height="448" alt="A Mill-Site Near Marble Cave." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A Mill-Site Near Marble Cave.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The distant view obtained through open spaces is an undulating forest in
+all directions, being apparently both trackless and endless. The great
+variety of greens observed in the foliage blends in the distance into
+one dark shade, then changes to dark blue, which gradually fades out to
+a hazy uncertainty where it is lost at the sky-line.</p>
+
+<p>As long ago as 1853, the variety and abundance of the natural growth of
+fruits throughout the Ozarks was observed by Professor Swallow, who then
+advised the planting of vines.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Wilderness is the Marble Cave property and the entrance to
+the Cave is through a large sink-hole in the top of Roark Mountain. This
+hole is said to be about two hundred feet long, one hundred feet wide
+and thirty-five feet deep. It is shaped like a great oblong bowl with
+sloping sides, divided irregularly near the middle, and having the
+bottom broken out in a jagged way that is very handsome and gives an
+ample support to the growth of ferns, wild<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> roses, and other vegetation
+with which it is abundantly decorated. About half of the descent into
+the basin is accomplished by scrambling down the roughly broken rocks,
+and the balance by a broad wooden stairway ending at a narrow platform
+that supports the locked gate.</p>
+
+<p>For kind and valuable assistance rendered to insure the success and
+pleasure of the visit to the wonderful cave, which they regard with
+affection and pride, very cordial thanks are due to Capt. T.&nbsp;S. Powell,
+former manager, his son, Mr. Will Powell, the first guide, and Mr. Fred
+Prince, who has made the only official survey and map. It may be stated
+here that the survey and map are far from complete, and many known
+passages have never yet been entered.</p>
+
+<p>Being the first visiting party of the season, certain disadvantages were
+encountered in a great accumulation of wet clay and rubbish, washed in
+by the rains since the previous summer; but the gate was opened with
+considerable effort, and slowly and cautiously we descended the
+slippery, clay-banked stairs to the immense mound of debris forty-five
+feet below the gate, to behold, at last, the grandeur of the Auditorium.</p>
+
+<p>The magnificence of that one chamber should give to Marble Cave a
+world-wide fame even if there were nothing more beyond. The blue-gray<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">29</a></span>
+limestone walls have a greater charm than those of an open ca&ntilde;on, owing
+to the fact that they sweep away from any given point in long, true
+curves to form an elliptical chamber three hundred and fifty feet long
+by one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, with the vault above showing
+absolute perfection of arch, and measuring, by the survey, from its
+lowest to its highest point, one hundred and ninety-five feet. These
+measurements are said to be indisputably correct, and if so, the
+Auditorium of Marble Cave is the largest unsupported, perfect arch in
+the world; it being one hundred feet longer than the famous Mormon
+Tabernacle at Salt Lake City. In addition to the artistic superiority of
+architectural form, its acoustic properties having been tested, it is
+found to be truly an auditorium. The curving walls and pure atmosphere
+combine to aid the voice, and carry its softest tones with marvelous
+distinctness to every portion of the immense inclosed space. As a
+concert hall its capacity has been tested by musicians who are said to
+have been enthusiastic over the success of their experiments. Several
+years ago a piano was lowered into the cave for use on a special
+occasion, and still occupies a position on the dancing platform, where
+it will probably remain indefinitely under the scant protection of a
+small canvas tent.</p>
+
+<p>The chief ornament of the Auditorium is the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">30</a></span> White Throne, a stalagmitic
+mass that when viewed from the stairway appears to rest solidly against
+the most distant wall, and looks so small an object in that vast space
+as to render a realization of its actual measurement impossible. The
+height of the Throne is sixty-five feet and the girth two hundred. It is
+a mass of dripstone resting on a limestone base reserved from the
+ancient excavation to receive it, and on careful inspection the
+perpendicular lines, observed on the front, are found to be a set of
+rather large organ pipes. A fresh fracture shows the Throne to be a most
+beautiful white and gold onyx. The outer surface has now received a thin
+coating of yellow clay which was, of course, regretted, but later
+observations on onyx building reveals the pleasing fact that if the
+crystal-bearing waters continue to drip, the yellow clay will supply the
+coloring matter for a golden band of crystal.</p>
+
+<p>The Throne is hollow and has a natural opening in one side by which it
+may be entered, but the space within is too limited to invite a lengthy
+stay. That portion of the outside which is nearest the wall is formed
+with sufficient irregularity of outline to admit of an ascent to the
+top, and the view obtained is well worth the difficult scramble up and
+the apprehensive slide down. Being raised so high above all objects that
+divide attention or in some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">31</a></span> degree obstruct the view, permits a freedom
+of outlook that sensibly increases the appreciation of the vastness of
+the enclosed chamber and its enclosing walls. Efforts to establish the
+age of the deposit by observations on the yearly growth, would afford
+little satisfaction, for the obvious reason that conditions governing
+the growth are dependent, in a measure, on each season's vegetation.
+Deposit began, of course, after the erosion of the chamber ceased, and
+therefore represents only a fraction of the age of the cave itself.
+About thirty feet west of the White Throne and against the wall, stands
+the next onyx attraction in the form of a beautiful fluted column nearly
+twenty feet high, tapering up from a base three feet in diameter, and
+known as the Spring Room Sentinel, because the Spring of Youth is just
+behind it although not directly connected with the Auditorium; it being
+the first chamber on the left in Total Depravity Passage, a wet and
+dangerous way of which next to nothing is known, but the entrance to
+which is a fine arch a few feet west of the Sentinel. The Spring of
+Youth is reached by climbing through a window-like opening, and is very
+small, very wet, very cold, and very beautiful. It is not more than ten
+feet high nor six in its greatest length and breadth, but every inch of
+its irregular surface is composed of dripstone of a bright yellowish-red
+and colorless crystal; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">32</a></span> down the glittering walls trickles clear and
+almost ice-cold water, to the onyx floor where it is caught and held in
+a marvelous fluted bowl of its own manufacture. This is said to be the
+gem of the whole cave and seems to have been placed where it is for the
+consolation of those who are unable to enjoy the peculiar grandeur of
+the Auditorium, and leave it as some actually are said to do, with a
+sense of disappointment, because it is not the gleaming white hall of
+marble which some writers for reputable journals have allowed their
+imaginations to create.</p>
+
+<p>In winter the Spring of Youth Room takes on a complete coating of ice,
+with icicles of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and projections. The
+effect is described as being wonderfully beautiful.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Further down Total Depravity Passage we were not urged to go, because at
+that season of the year it is wet and difficult, without any sufficient
+promise of a brilliant compensation for the achievement of such a
+journey. But the Spring of Youth Room, or as it is generally called, the
+Spring Room, is more than ample justification for the existence of the
+passage, and would still be if that passage were several miles in length
+and the attraction located at the most distant limit.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo6.jpg" width="450" height="510" alt="Wall in Spring Room." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Wall in Spring Room. <a href="#Page_32">Page 32.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The various passages in Marble Cave are by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">33</a></span> >no means alike or even
+similar; some having been opened by the action of water assisted only by
+acid carried in solution; while others are the unmistakable crevices of
+earthquake origin, afterwards enlarged, or perhaps only remodeled, as we
+might say, by the water's untiring energy in changing the position of
+rock masses without obliterating evidences of original design.</p>
+
+<p>A glance at the map shows the sudden breaking off of the various
+passages represented; the end, however, is not of the passages
+themselves, but only of the exploration or the survey of them, and there
+is a possibility that future developments will lead to the discovery of
+more caves than are yet known. However that may be, the glimpses already
+had into the beyond are said to be alluring.</p>
+
+<p>To the north of the Auditorium, which was until recently called the
+Grand Amphitheater, there opens out a kind of alcove extension known as
+the Mother Hubbard Room, and spreading out from this is the corridor, a
+room about one hundred and twenty-five feet long and seventy-five feet
+in width, with a low, narrow passage, or crawl, leading from the
+northeast into the Grotto, a dome-shaped room formerly called the
+Battery, on account of the great number of bats that used to congregate
+in it. It is about forty feet in diameter and fifty feet in height. On
+one side of this room is a narrow "squeeze"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">34</a></span> opening into a passage
+several feet lower than the floor level of the Grotto and leading to the
+Spanish Room, which when discovered bore indications of having been
+occupied by a human being who had tried to escape by tunneling, or by
+reaching a hole in the roof; which is said to be impossible for him to
+have done without outside assistance. As no bones have been found we may
+hope the assistance arrived in time. When the discovery of the room was
+made, a quantity of loose rock was piled before the entrance, so if he
+ever escaped it was not by that way.</p>
+
+<p>After crawling back to the Corridor, through the same small, but dry
+passage of seventy feet length, we saw a narrow ledge of fine crystals,
+a deposit of Epsom salts, and a few bats that in the dim light looked
+white but are a light tan color with brown wings. A good specimen
+hanging on a projecting ledge of the wall remained undisturbed by us and
+our lights, giving an opportunity for careful inspection so that we
+presently discovered it to be a mummy; which naturally suggests that
+this portion of the cave, being dry and opening out of the great
+temple-like Auditorium as an alcove, could be converted into an imposing
+crypt.</p>
+
+<p>Making our way across the room to its southwest extremity over a varied
+assortment of bowlders and down a drop of eight or ten feet,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">35</a></span> we crawled
+into another tight-fitting dry passage lined with beautiful glittering
+onyx like clear ice banded with narrow lines of red, of which broken
+fragments covered the narrow floor and made a dazzling, but
+distressingly painful rug to crawl over. This is the West Passage and
+leads to the Grand Crevice, of which only a small portion has been
+surveyed; midway of the passage are the Epsom Rooms, two in number, and
+well supplied with epsomite or native Epsom salts; this is sometimes
+called the Windy Passage, on account of a rushing current of air met
+suddenly at the first bend and, no doubt, due to the meeting here of
+fresh air coming in from the outside with that chemically changed in the
+Epsom Rooms.</p>
+
+<p>The cave contains a great many dangerous places, as we correctly
+surmised on the morning of our introduction; when Mr. Powell's blessing
+on the breakfast was lost in so fervent a prayer for the safe and
+successful accomplishment of our undertaking, it seemed inconsiderate
+not to present the reassuring appearance of inexhaustible endurance.</p>
+
+<p>In the Corridor can be seen one of the three old Spanish ladders found
+in the cave when it was rediscovered; but when and for what purpose the
+Spaniards used the cave there seems to be no means of finding out. It
+should be remembered that this part of the United States<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">36</a></span> was occupied
+first by the Spaniards and then by the French, and is a portion of the
+Louisiana Purchase, a tract of 897,931 square miles, or 70,000 square
+miles more than the original thirteen states. The price asked and paid
+was $12,000,000 and the assumption of claims which citizens of this
+country had against the French Government for about $3,750,000 more. The
+French offered to make the sale on account of being thoroughly
+discouraged with constant troubles arising with the Indians, whom they
+had decided it would be impossible to persuade or compel to recognize
+any laws other than those established by each tribe for itself, or
+accepted by friendly treaty with the council and disregarded by
+individuals on both sides:&mdash;and the United States accepted the offer,
+not for any expected value in the land, but for the unrestricted
+navigation of the Mississippi River. Therefore Missouri was never under
+British rule and never changed hands by force of arms.</p>
+
+<p>But to return to the Spanish ladder, it is a tall pine tree notched on
+the sides for steps, and the stump of a branch left or a peg inserted at
+considerable intervals, for hand supports to assist in raising the
+weight of the body.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the Auditorium, we entered a passage behind the Great White
+Throne and started on what might well be called the Water Route, for no
+dry spot is touched on the round<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">37</a></span> trip; but if one goes prepared for
+such a journey it is well worth the effort and the mud. If the visitor
+is a man, the suit worn should be one he is ready to part with, or
+overalls; ladies receive the same advice even to the overalls, as some
+of the most beautiful portions of the cave, which we failed to see, can
+be visited only in that objectionable costume. To visit any cave
+comfortably a short dress is necessary and if any thing like a thorough
+knowledge of the ramifications is desired, the unavoidable climbing will
+soon prove the superior claims of a divided skirt; but if it is properly
+made, only the wearer need be conscious of the divide. Rubber boots and
+water-proof protection for the head and shoulders complete a costume
+that is not exactly an artistic creation, unless our ideas of art have
+been gathered in the school of Socrates, but it is suited to the
+requirements of the occasion and makes the explorations far more easy
+and profitable than they otherwise could be.</p>
+
+<p>The passage back of the White Throne is called the Serpentine Passage,
+and most of it is sufficiently high for traveling in an erect position;
+yet there are several places that require crawling. The first stopping
+point is the Gulf of Doom Room, or as it is also known, the Register
+Room, because here visitors usually write their names in the peculiar
+dark red clay,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> which is moist but firm and cuts with a polish. This
+room is twenty-five feet high and fifty feet wide, and looks off into
+the Gulf of Doom, which seems rightly named when a rock is thrown into
+it and you note the lapse of time before any sound returns; and when the
+awful Gulf is made visible by lights thrown in, one involuntarily seeks
+a firmer footing and clings to a projecting rock. The height of the Gulf
+is ninety-five feet and the distant sound of falling water is not
+reassuring. The walls are not smoothly worn away, but have the rough and
+weird appearance of having been torn by a torrent in a narrow mountain
+gorge, and are stained with the dark clay.</p>
+
+<p>Retracing our steps a short distance, if that style of locomotion could
+be called steps, we turned into Dor&eacute;'s Gallery, and surely that artist
+was in his usual working mood when he conceived this awful method of
+connecting the upper regions with the lower. Great bowlders have fallen
+down without helping to fill the black holes that received them, and
+into this real Inferno we proceeded to descend by narrow, ladder-like
+stairs provided with a light hand rail, and trembling slightly with the
+responsibility they assumed. If any one's courage trembled too, no
+notice was taken of it, and a record of exploring experiences does not
+necessarily include a confession of any doubts.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">39</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On all the ladders in this Gallery was a fine white fungus growth in the
+form of a thick, heavy mold, that the lightest touch destroyed. In caves
+where some care is taken to protect this mold, it attains a growth of
+six or more feet and assumes the forms of sea-weed.</p>
+
+<p>Once down the first and longest flight of stairs, without any signs of a
+Dor&eacute; dragon raising its huge body by heavy claws to a resting place
+among the rocks, awe divides more evenly with admiration; and being
+already well besmeared with mud, we climbed over the clay-covered
+bowlders and crawled through narrow holes with perfect satisfaction,
+enjoying each novel scene to the utmost.</p>
+
+<p>Off from the Dor&eacute; Gallery is a small chamber containing the Fountain of
+Youth, that must be seen, but the way, like that of the transgressor, is
+hard. Arrived at the entrance we hesitated a moment, for although
+getting in looked possible, the way out again seemed not so simple; but
+finally trusting to Providence, through the direct agency of our careful
+guardians, of course, we sat down on the edge of the large slippery
+bowlder on which we stood, and reaching out caught a projection of the
+wall on one side and a bowlder crag on the other, swung off and dropped
+into the soft mud below. This chamber proved to be a little gem; small
+but high, and beautifully adorned with calcite crystal. Down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">40</a></span> a wall of
+red onyx on one side clear water flows into a basin in the irregular,
+rocky floor, just behind the bowlder we had used for a hand-rest at the
+entrance; the perfectly transparent water in the basin appears to be
+only a few inches deep, but measures three feet, and is several degrees
+colder than the air, which in this portion of the cave is warm. The
+other wall of this room is an almost perpendicular bank of the soft dark
+red clay, in which small selenite crystals are sprouting like plants in
+a garden.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Suddenly we heard a heavy, rolling noise like distant thunder, and
+asking if it were possible to hear a thunder storm so far below the
+surface, were told it was the protest of angry bats against a further
+advance on the quarters to which they have retreated from the main body
+of the cave, and their orders were obeyed: so of what may be in that
+direction, we gained no positive knowledge besides bats, and the fact
+that, small as they are, their great numbers make them dangerous when
+angry. Returning to the gallery and continuing the journey down over
+slippery rock and slender ladders we came at length to the bottom of the
+Gulf of Doom, into which we had looked from the room now high above us;
+and we needed no stimulating help to the imagination to pronounce it a
+fit termination to an artist's troubled dream.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo7.jpg" width="450" height="268" alt="The Waterfall." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Waterfall. <a href="#Page_41">Page 41.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">41</a></span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Then climbing over an assortment of bowlders of all sizes, going up a
+little, and swinging or sliding down, we came to a point in the narrow
+passage where the floor is a flat slab, like a large paving stone,
+tilted up at a steep angle against one wall and not reaching the other
+by about fifteen inches, with darkness of unknown depth below: about
+three feet above this opening the wall projects in a narrow, shelving
+ledge, and everything is covered with a thin coating of slippery wet
+clay. The only way to cross that uninviting bridge is to brace the feet
+against the slab, and leaning on the ledge, slowly work across. A little
+more rough work and the descent of the two short ladders, brought us, at
+last, under the beautiful Waterfall, where we stood as in a heavy shower
+of rain at the lowest point yet reached in the cave, which according to
+the survey of Mr. Prince is four hundred feet below the surface. The
+falling water has ornamented the walls, which in this portion of the
+cave expose over two hundred feet of Magnesian Limestone, with unique
+forms of dripstone; and the steeply sloping floor has received the
+over-charge of calcium carbonate until it has become a shining mass of
+onyx, retaining pools of cold, transparent water in the depressions. In
+the lowest corner there is only mud, and above it rises, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span> a height of
+at least fifteen feet a bank of miry, yellow clay, at the top of which a
+hole in the wall is the only known entrance to Blondy's Throne.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<a href="images/illo8.jpg"><img src="images/illo8_th.jpg" width="350" height="223" alt="Cross-Sections of Marble Cave." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Longitudinal and Cross-Sections of Passages in Marble Cave, Stone Co., Missouri.</span>
+<span class="caption">Plotted by Fred Prince, 1894.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">43</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h3>MARBLE CAVE CONTINUED.</h3>
+
+
+<p>On account of the long "crawl" through mud and cold water, it was at
+first suggested and then strongly advised, that we should not undertake
+to make the trip to Blondy's Throne: and yearning to see what is
+considered the cave's chief beauty was not easy to overcome, but after
+careful attention to the deep mire of the approach the advice seemed
+good, especially as Mr. Powell kindly promised to write a description of
+its trials and treasures; which he promptly did, thereby making it
+possible for us to continue the journey now without a disappointing
+interruption, so we will proceed to wade that mud bank with him in his
+own way. He says: "As Mecca is to the Mohammedan, so is Blondy's Throne
+Room to the pilgrim who invades the chaos and penetrates the mysteries
+of Marble Cave. When the subject is mentioned to the guide, he shrugs
+his shoulders and assumes an imploring look, and begins at once to
+mention the difficulties of getting there. But if you insist upon it he
+will go. The passage by which this room has to be reached, if passage it
+may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> be called, must be entered from the Waterfall Room, and a steep
+ascent must be made until an elevation of fifty feet is reached above
+the bottom of that room. This ascent has been called Hughse's Slide, as
+a man of that name once lost his footing at the top and slid on the wet
+and very slippery clay all the way to the bottom, leaving a very sleek
+trail. The ascent is difficult, as the soft clay is deep and wet and the
+sides are reeking and covered also with soft yielding clay. When the top
+of the slide is once reached, a low passage six feet wide and two feet
+high is discovered, and stooping low, or actually lying flat down, you
+enter. The top of the passage is of smooth rock and the bottom is of wet
+clay with an occasional variation of sharp gravel. The air is good, and
+as a lizard, you start forward. In places the passage widens to ten or
+twelve feet and again narrows to six feet.</p>
+
+<p>"In about one hundred feet you encounter a small pond of water filling
+the whole width of the passage and extending twenty to thirty feet, but
+the guide tells you it is only one foot deep, and calls attention to the
+fact that the water does not come within a foot of the roof of the
+passage and you can easily keep your chin above it, and with this
+assurance through you go.</p>
+
+<p>"Within the next one hundred feet you encounter and pass in the same
+manner three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">45</a></span> more ponds of varying sizes. The guide calls your
+attention to the fact that you are not alone, and looking about you by
+the dim light of your candle you see numbers of small eyeless
+salamanders, from four inches to one foot long. They are peaceable and
+harmless, appear to have no teeth and are easily caught, if you so
+desire.</p>
+
+<p>"Another hundred feet and the Rest Room, or Egyptian Temple is reached,
+and rising to your feet you may rest. The room is small, but contains
+beautifully fluted walls, resembling basaltic columns; and natural marks
+of erosion that resemble hieroglyphic inscriptions. From the other side
+of this room the passage goes on with the same characteristics, but as
+you enter to go forward a sound strikes the ear, and you pause to
+listen. It is a confusion of sounds, a babel of voices; and sounds like
+a distant conversation carried on by a large number of people. So
+striking is this resemblance that you instantly ask the guide if there
+are people in the room ahead, and hardly believe him when he says, 'No.'</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">"You hear voices of men, voices of boys, babies, girls and ladies, and
+occasionally loud laughter; but forward is the word and on you go,
+encouraged by the assurance of the guide that you are now over half way
+through the passage and that the sounds came from Blondy's Throne Room.
+Suddenly the passage divides into two much<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">46</a></span> alike, and taking the right
+hand one, you make your slow advance until at last, with clothes soaked
+and covered with clay mud, and your strength about gone, you begin to
+feel desperate and tell the guide that you will go no further, when you
+see him rise to his feet, and he says: 'Here we are.' You step over a
+steep bank of clay and emerge into a large room. It is almost square in
+shape; about eighty feet long and sixty feet wide, and about fifty feet
+high, with white, smooth walls and a pure white ceiling, and sloping
+gradually downward on the left ends in a small, clear lake of water.
+This lake has a beautiful beach of white pebbles, and though shallow on
+the edge seems quite deep at the center; in fact it is believed to have
+there a concealed opening that gives exit to its waters. On the opposite
+side from you, a stream of clear water pours into the lake, and in doing
+so it gives off the sounds that in the passage you mistook for human
+voices; and this noble stream has been named Mystic River. It enters the
+lake from under a beautiful natural arch, about thirty feet across at
+the bottom, and six feet above the water at the center. The bed of the
+stream is eroded from strata of sandstone that is extremely hard,
+containing corundum, and so perfect is its continuity that it conveys
+sound distinctly for a distance far beyond the reach of the human voice,
+when tapped upon with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">47</a></span> hammer. The top of the arch is studded with
+lovely stalactites, clear as glass, that extend to the outer edge of the
+arch and form massive and beautiful groups there. Above the arch is a
+large opening. In truth the side of the room is out, and a great dark
+space appears like a curtain of black. A natural path leads up over one
+side of the arch, and following the lead of the guide you go up above
+and learn that a room on the higher level extends off in that direction
+and gets larger and higher. The walls are stalagmitic columns in cream
+color and decked in places with blood-red spots or blotches of Titanic
+size. The ceiling you cannot see. It is too high for the lights you have
+to reach. On the left you are suddenly confronted by a stalagmitic
+formation so large and so grand that all others are dwarfed into
+insignificance. You think of the dome of the Capitol at Washington. You
+are standing at the sloping base but cannot see the top. Just here the
+guide announces in an awestruck voice 'Blondy's Throne.' And who is
+Blondy? Only a fair-haired, blue-eyed, intrepid and daring
+fifteen-year-old boy, named Charles Smallwood, who assisted the writer
+in exploring the cave in the early days of 1883, and going on in
+advance, reported back that he had found another and a greater throne
+than the Great White Throne in the Auditorium.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo9.jpg" width="450" height="459" alt="Blondy&#39;s Throne." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Blondy&#39;s Throne. <a href="#Page_47">Page 47.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Well, here we are at Blondy's Throne at last,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> and surveying the base,
+we find that it is actually only half in the room we are in; the other
+half forms the side of another room. In a word, the Great Throne divides
+the room into two parts and makes two rooms of it instead of one. Yet
+the one half of the base has a measurement, by tape line, of one hundred
+and fifty feet. The guide now makes preparations to ascend the Throne. A
+chain has been fastened up towards the top, and by taking hold of this
+the climb can be made up the sloping sides of the Throne. We pass on and
+up over the clearest and most ice-like formation, resembling the great
+icebergs seen at sea. Reaching an elevation of sixty feet an opening
+into the dome is found, and stooping, you enter. It is a room about
+twenty feet across, with a white ice-like floor, a roof or ceiling ten
+feet above, and from it hang thousands of brilliant stalactites and from
+the floor stalagmites rise up to meet them. They are in all sizes, from
+an inch to two feet across. The sides are of the same material joined
+and cemented lightly together. Strike any of them and clear musical
+notes are given off; a musician has found two full octaves. Water is
+dripping in many places, and in the center of the floor is a tank full
+of clear water. It is four feet wide, twelve feet long and of unknown
+depth.</p>
+
+<p>"On the opposite side of the room from which you enter there is a hole
+or opening in the wall.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">49</a></span> It is large enough to go through but it goes
+into the great dark room on the other side of the Throne. An abyss
+confronts you, a sheer precipice which descends for many feet, perhaps
+hundreds. No man knows. This outer room of Blondy's Throne has been
+named the Chamber of the Fairies. Leaving it and continuing the ascent,
+the top of the Throne is soon reached and is about twenty feet across;
+and from several points still higher, rise stalagmitic spires.</p>
+
+<p>"The actual height of Blondy's Throne is not known, but is probably
+about one hundred feet. Again look upwards for the ceiling from the
+dizzy height on top of the Throne; you cannot see it. Burn magnesium
+ribbon and look up, and you see a white ceiling spangled with groups of
+stalactites. It is surely one hundred feet away. Then look off into the
+unknown room which is called the Great Beyond. No human being has ever
+explored or even entered it, but fire balls thrown in reveal the fact
+that it is of great extent; and part of the bottom water and part land.
+No way of getting into it has ever yet been found, so its mysteries,
+lessons and revelations are still safe from human intrusion. How far it
+goes, where it stops, and what it leads to, are facts for some future
+explorer to discover. Bats and white salamanders are found in Blondy's
+Throne Room, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">50</a></span> some larger animals have been heard to jump into the
+water and escape on the approach of man, but their species is not known.</p>
+
+<p>"The arched passage of Mystic River has been followed up for a journey
+of an hour, but further than that its extent is unknown. It was hoped
+that a way would be thus found into the Great Beyond, but it did not
+prove successful. A well equipped party could find there a chance for
+some grand discoveries, and it would be one of the notable pleasures of
+the life of the writer to be one of such a party.</p>
+
+<p>"The exit from Blondy's Throne Room is always made with deep regret that
+the waning lights and meager supplies will not allow a longer stay. The
+long crawl, the mud and the water are all forgotten, and notwithstanding
+the terror of the trip one feels well repaid."</p>
+
+<p>We thank Mr. Powell for a charming journey without its discomfort and
+danger, and resume our travels at the Waterfall.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">From the foot of the Waterfall we returned again to the Auditorium, in
+time to enjoy a sight such as we supposed could exist only in a
+brilliant imagination; and the return at that hour was not a lucky
+accident of fate, but the result of careful attention to a prearranged
+design that we should not fail to witness a marvelous display never
+surpassed by lavish <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">51</a></span>Nature. The day outside was one of cloudless
+summer sunshine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo10.jpg" width="450" height="296" alt="Blondy&#39;s Throne Room." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Blondy&#39;s Throne Room. <a href="#Page_50">Page 50.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo11.jpg" width="450" height="466" alt="Foot of Waterfall." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Foot of Waterfall. <a href="#Page_50">Page 50.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our eyes having grown accustomed to the dim light of candles in passages
+where absolute darkness, unrelieved by the stars of midnight, always
+reigns, the great Auditorium appeared before us softly flooded with
+daylight diffused from a broad white beam slanting down in long straight
+lines from the entrance as from a rift in heavy clouds; only this rift
+displayed around its edges a brilliant border of vegetation that the
+rough rocks cherish with tender care.</p>
+
+<p>As we stood lost in almost speechless admiration, and without the
+slightest warning of treasure yet in store, the white beam was stabbed
+by a narrow, gleaming shaft of yellow sunlight. The glorious, radiant
+beauty of the picture presented is utterly indescribable, but it was of
+short duration, and in a few seconds the golden blade was withdrawn as
+suddenly as it had appeared.</p>
+
+<p>If the genius of Elkins had been granted the privilege we enjoyed, the
+artist-world of Europe that graciously yielded the highest honor to his
+"Sunbeam on Mount Shasta," would have knelt in rapturous humility.
+Speaking of his great work, as we stood before it only a few months
+before his death, Mr. Elkins said quietly: "It is no great achievement;
+I simply<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> painted it exactly as it looked. Anyone could do the same."
+But no one ever has.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">The white beam was more enduring and by its aid we were able to view the
+expanse of the great Auditorium far better than could have been done in
+the momentary glare of any brilliant artificial light. Every part of the
+cloud-gray walls shows a stratification as regularly horizontal as if
+the laying of each course had been done with the assistance of line and
+level; while in every direction are now seen hundreds of stalactites
+that had not been noticed before, and although they look small, the
+average length, taken with the surveying instruments, is fourteen feet.
+The Hill beneath the entrance is an accumulation of debris, drifted in
+from the outside, and rising to a height of more than one hundred and
+twenty-five feet; while the great circumference of its supporting base,
+revealed by the banishment of shadows, suggests the possibility of
+tragic history of which the only evidence lies buried there and may or
+may not ever be discovered; but let us step lightly, since our feet may
+press the covering that shields a final sleep; and also let a grieving
+sister in her old age take comfort in the knowledge that here, as in few
+other spots, nature provides a certain and gentle burial for the
+unfortunate, and for a few seconds each day lights the dim chamber with
+a heavenly glory&mdash;perhaps in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">53</a></span>appeal to the sons of one country to
+harbor no such feelings as deprived Abel of life and for all time and
+eternity tarnished the honor of Cain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo12.jpg" width="450" height="475" alt="Entrance to Cave--Interior View." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Entrance to Cave--Interior View. <a href="#Page_52">Page 52.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The chilliness presently recalled us from further indulgence in that
+great scene, to ordinary affairs; and consulting the reliable
+thermometer, it was found to register 42&deg;, while in some of the lower
+passages the temperature is 58&deg;; but the variation is not in accordance
+with the accepted theory of one degree to the one hundred feet descent.</p>
+
+<p>A return to the beautiful Spring of Youth Room was now a necessity, but
+we were careful to allow no drop of water falling from clay-stained
+hands to reach the purity of that lovely bowl, and then being happy and
+hungry, we retired to the piano's protecting tent for refreshment.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere in Marble Cave has the peculiar bracing and invigorating
+quality common to the majority of caves, that seems almost to defy
+fatigue and encourage exertion that under ordinary conditions would be
+impossible.</p>
+
+<p>After the exertion necessary in the warmer portions of the cave, the
+temperature of 42&deg; proved rather low for comfort and finally was
+admitted to be a sufficient reason for either leaving the cave or
+sending out for the wraps. Slowly and reluctantly the party walked up
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">54</a></span> long winding path to the summit of the Hill where the stairway
+finds support, stopping many times to admire again the perfect curves
+and fine color-tones of that wonderful high arch&mdash;within a mountain yet
+softly radiant with the light of day.</p>
+
+<p>Still lingering regretfully among the fern-decked rocks before quite
+finishing the ascent to the actual outside world, the mercury lost
+little time in registering eighty degrees.</p>
+
+<p>Since no official, or even approximately correct map of Marble Cave has
+yet been published, and the desirability of maps is particularly urged
+by Monsieur E.&nbsp;A. Martel, a special effort was made to secure one, which
+was accompanied by the following remarks from Mr. Prince in regard to
+its incompleteness:</p>
+
+<p>"There are several passages and rooms which do not appear on the map,
+though some of them are well known, but have not been surveyed and
+platted.</p>
+
+<p>"Much further exploration is possible in this great cavern. Lost River
+Ca&ntilde;on ends abruptly in a bank of red clay, the volume of water being
+undiminished. The water from the Great Fall flows by a small serpentine
+into a passage which has never been followed up; its entrance being
+several hundred feet higher than the nearest water level."</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately the quantity of water in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">55</a></span> cave at the time of the
+visit just described was so unusually great as to render the Lost River
+Ca&ntilde;on trip impossible.</p>
+
+<p>During the previous season the cave and its surroundings were visited by
+a prominent naturalist who appears to have been delightfully liberal in
+the diffusion of scientific knowledge and the explanations of methods of
+pursuing investigations. His practical instruction in snake catching is
+particularly interesting as it was never before introduced into this
+state, where the copperhead and rattler are known to have survived among
+the fittest. Seeing a snake hole and desiring information as to the
+family record of the proprietor, he inserted a finger, and while waiting
+for results explained that there is no better way to secure a specimen,
+as the enraged reptile will fasten its fangs into the intruding member
+and then can be easily withdrawn. It is a pleasure to state that even
+snakes recognize the claims of friendship, and no injury was
+experienced.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">2</a></p>
+
+<p>In the vicinity of Marble Cave there are several choice varieties of
+onyx and marble, among them a rare and beautiful onyx in black and
+yellow. The coloring, tinting and banding of onyx seem generally to be
+regarded as one of the unexplainable mysteries of nature, but is in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">56</a></span>reality an extremely simple process that can be easily studied in any
+active cave.</p>
+
+<p>When the percolating acidulated water passes slowly through a pure
+limestone it is filtered of impurities and deposits a crystal, either
+pure white or transparent; if it comes in contact with metallic bodies
+of any kind, it carries away more or less in solution to act as coloring
+matter; the beautiful pale green onyx in several Missouri counties
+taking its tint from the copper; in South Dakota, manganese in various
+combinations produces black and many shades of brown; in both states an
+excessive flow of water often carries a quantity of red or yellow clay
+which temporarily destroys the beauty of exposed surfaces, but in after
+years becomes a fine band of brilliant color.</p>
+
+<p>Small wind caves are numerous in the Ozarks and being cold are
+frequently utilized for the preservation of domestic supplies. The
+entrance to one in the neighborhood of Marble Cave is high up on the
+hill-side south of Mr. Powell's house and being visible from the porch
+was too tempting to be ignored, and the walk up to it for a better view
+was rewarded with a most charming bit of scenery as well. All the quiet
+valley, divided by a rushing little stream, lay before us in the shadow
+of early evening, while to the north and east the hills were brilliant
+in summer sunshine, with one small open glade<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">57</a></span> gleaming vividly among
+the darker shades of forest green.</p>
+
+<p>The cave was a very small room at the bottom of a steep, rocky, sloping
+passage, and contained no standing water, although there had been a
+heavy rainfall the night before and the opening is so situated as to
+especially favor the inflow, which naturally indicates a greater cave
+beneath a hidden passage. Here, as in most of the caves of the region,
+is found a small lizard: it is totally blind but its ancestors evidently
+were not, as is shown by conspicuous protuberances where the eyes should
+be, but over which the skin is drawn without a wrinkle or seam to
+indicate a former opening. These harmless creatures are not scaly, but
+are clothed in a soft, shining, well-fitted skin, and the largest seen
+were little more than six inches long.</p>
+
+<p>Those who love perfect Nature in a most smiling mood should hasten to
+visit Marble Cave while yet no railroad quite touches the county.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">2</span></a> The naturalist referred to is the late Prof. E.&nbsp;D. Cope.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">58</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<h3>FAIRY CAVE AND POWELL CAVE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Fairy Cave enjoys the reputation of being the most beautiful yet
+discovered in that cavernous region, and consequently a visit to it was
+contemplated with considerable eagerness, although the mode of entrance
+had been described with sufficient accuracy to prevent any misconception
+of the difficulties to be overcome or the personal risk involved. To go
+from our temporary abiding place it was necessary to pass Marble Cave,
+and when we had gone that far Mr. Powell left us to follow the road,
+while he, on his mule, took a short cut across the hills and valleys, to
+try to find men not too much occupied with their own affairs on a fine
+Monday morning, in corn plowing time, to join our expedition. As neither
+our small companion, Merle, nor ourselves, had any knowledge of the
+locality of our destination, we were carefully instructed to follow the
+main road to the Wilderness Ridge, and keeping to that, pass the Indian
+Creek road and all others that are plain, but turn down the second dim
+road and follow it until stopped by a new fence where we would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">59</a></span> be met
+and conducted. So long as points to be passed held out, these directions
+gave us no trouble whatever, even the first dim road offering no
+obstacle to the pleasure of our progress; but the second dim road proved
+so elusive we traveled many miles in search of it, finally bringing up
+against a place Merle was familiar with and knew to be a long way off
+the track of our intentions. As there was nothing to be done but return
+we naturally accepted the situation and did that; presently finding Mr.
+Powell and the Messrs. Irwin, on whose land the cave is, patiently
+waiting for us in what was really not a road at all, but rather, in this
+region of fossils, the badly preserved impression of one long since
+extinct.</p>
+
+<p>The new fence was opened at two places that we might drive through and
+be saved the exertion of walking a considerable distance, then the
+horses were left in the shade while we scrambled down the steep
+hill-side covered with sharp-edged, broken rock, about mid-way down
+which is the mouth of the cave, yawning like a narrow, open well. Above
+this a stout windlass has been arranged on two forked logs.</p>
+
+<p>A few feet below the surface the cave spreads out jug-shaped, so that in
+descending nothing is touched until the floor is reached, one hundred
+feet beneath the surface; consequently the only danger to be apprehended
+is a fall.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Each of the three men present kindly offered to go down and make the
+exploration with me, but that would have left only two at the windlass,
+and for a man's weight, safety requires four. Should an accident occur,
+assistance would be necessary, and some time lost in finding it; so, to
+the undisguised satisfaction of one and equally evident relief of the
+others, it was reluctantly decided that the trip must be given up, and
+therefore we are indebted to the kindness of Captain Powell<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">3</a> for the
+following description of Fairy Cave:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Cave referred to is situated in Section 24, Township 23, Range
+23, in Stone County, Missouri, and is on the homestead of one of
+three brothers named Irwin.</p>
+
+<p>"It was accidentally discovered in the year 1895 and up to the time
+of this writing (June 1896) only six persons have ever entered it.
+It is in a point or spur of the Ozark Mountains which runs to the
+east from the great Wilderness Ridge, and is three miles distant
+from the Marble Cave. Having been one of the first to enter the
+Cave, being called by the owner as a sort of cave expert, I will
+attempt to describe both the adventure and the cave just as they
+were. The measurements are simply estimated, though by long
+practice I have become expert in that line also, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span>but the longest
+measurement here was correctly taken by the rope used.</p>
+
+<p>"Having been invited by the Irwin brothers to come and examine and
+explore a new cave they had found but had only entered and not
+explored, accompanied by my eldest son, W.&nbsp;T. Powell, I reached the
+place one warm Saturday morning. We found about twelve or fourteen
+men waiting for our coming; some discussing the matter of whether
+we would enter when we did come, and others who had volunteered to
+work the windlass, which had been erected over the opening, by
+means of which, with a one hundred foot rope, entrance was to be
+made. The opening was like a small well, and situated under the
+edge of an overhanging cliff of marble, and on the southeast slope
+of the mountain, about one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom
+of a narrow valley, and about the same distance below the top of
+the mountain, which here is three hundred feet high. In order to
+rig a windlass the edge of the cliff had to be broken away. The
+well-like opening descended for about ten feet through strata of
+flat-laying rocks that formed a roof; then all appeared to be
+vacancy and a stone cast in gave back a distant sound.</p>
+
+<p>"Having first tested the air and proved it good by dropping in
+blazing excelsior saturated with turpentine, a stout oak stick was
+attached to the end of the rope, my son sprang astride and was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span>
+lowered to the bottom, just one hundred feet. He reported back 'All
+right.' On the return of the rope I took my position on the stick
+and was soon dangling in mid air. The sensation was strange and
+exhilarating. Looking up I could only see the small opening I came
+through, and a straggling stream of light poured down that, but on
+all sides profound darkness reigned supreme. A spark-like light my
+son lit, reminded me of the lost Pleiad. About twenty-five or
+thirty feet from the top I caught sight of a scene that made me
+call on the men at the windlass to stop.</p>
+
+<p>"This caused them to think something was going wrong and one called
+out to know what was the matter: I heard him say 'He is weakening.'
+I assured them everything was right only I wanted to take a view;
+so they stopped. Off at a distance of perhaps twenty-five feet was
+an opening about ten feet or more wide and twelve feet high. The
+light from the opening struck it fairly, owing to the position of
+the sun at the time. Through this opening I saw into another room,
+large and magnificent. It brought to mind the White City. It was
+snowy white, and thickly studded with stalactites and stalagmites
+of immense size and in great numbers; some looking like spires of
+numerous churches, and many connected as with a lattice-work about
+the bottom. For a short time I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> gazed on that lovely scene, and
+examined the chances to reach it, but a great gulf intervened that
+we had no means of spanning, and I called to the men to lower me
+down. Approaching the bottom one of the walls trended in towards me
+and I stepped upon solid ground close to the wall, which half way
+up seemed fifty feet away. The opening above now looked like a
+small pale moon, and the next man who came dangling down to join us
+looked no bigger than a toy soldier. Gradually our eyes became
+accustomed to the twilight, and by the time our party was increased
+to six men, I could see quite distinctly.</p>
+
+<p>"The room runs directly into the mountain and is about ninety feet
+high, and where we landed it proved to be twenty feet wide. It
+extended in both directions, but much the farthest towards the
+right hand. The outer room is encrusted in fine white water
+formations. It forms a Gothic ceiling from which hang pendant at
+all places brilliant and sparkling stalactites; some being of
+immense size and length, from ten to twenty-five feet. Others are
+not so large but are brilliant. We created a flood of artificial
+light with dozens of candles and lamps; and then and not until
+then, could we see the slope and contour of the roof. A few bats
+were flitting about, disturbed for the first time. To the left, a
+vast white pillar extended from floor to roof. It was pure white
+and about five feet in diameter all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">64</a></span> the way up. It was fluted,
+fretted, draped and spangled. I never in my life saw anything more
+chaste and lovely. I thought of the countless ages it must have
+taken to form that monument: of the streams of clear water that had
+fallen and left their calcite deposits, while it grew year after
+year, age after age, century after century, in this profound
+darkness, disturbed by no noises save the rhythmic sound of the
+falling drops and the dull flitting of the bats, who alone were the
+living witnesses of its construction. To the rear of this great
+pillar the room is divided into three galleries, one above another.
+With great difficulty and much danger we climbed into each of
+these. The floors were all like the pillar of pure white onyx, and
+extended back a distance of thirty or more feet. The floor of one
+formed the roof of another. They were brilliant with hanging
+pendants and the side walls were all veneered with the same white
+and crystalline formation. To entirely describe them is impossible.
+A day in each would still leave the observer short of words in
+which to tell of the wonders.</p>
+
+<p>"Turning towards the right hand from the entrance we advance two
+hundred feet up an incline of dry clay, the room widening gradually
+until its width is forty feet, when we reach the top of an
+elevation thirty feet above the starting point, where a sudden
+steep descent brings us to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">65</a></span> a halt. A stone cast down strikes water
+and the sound of a splash comes back to us. With caution we seek
+our way down the hill and stand on the edge of a small lake or
+pond. Suddenly my son, who is in the lead, rushes back saying:
+'Look out! I put my hand on a snake.' Some of us, being armed with
+hickory canes that had been thrown down, concentrated our lights
+and advanced. Sure enough, there is a snake a yard long coiled up
+on a section of rotten wood. It proves to be a copperhead, the most
+quarrelsome and vicious snake in this country; but his nature is
+changed so that he makes no effort to fight and is killed with a
+blow, and is sent to be hoisted up that we may examine him in
+daylight. No others were found, and probably he had fallen in at
+the opening, and spent a long, weary time in expiation of his
+upper-earth crimes.</p>
+
+<p>"Examining the lake we find it to be about forty feet wide and the
+same long, and it fills the room from wall to wall. We cannot pass
+it so must either stop or wade through. We decide to wade, and on
+measuring the water find it only two or three feet deep, with a
+soft clay bottom, and in many places islands of stalagmite rise
+above the surface.</p>
+
+<p>"On the sides of the lake there are formations in the shape of
+sofas and lounges, and they appear to be cushioned, but the
+cushions are found to be hard, solid rock. As the lights advance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">66</a></span>
+across the lake new wonders are revealed. Curtains and draperies
+hanging from the top almost touch the water and entirely cut off
+the view beyond. Passing under a curtain at one of the highest
+places, we emerge from the lake, and once more on dry land, advance
+up a slope. Here the water formations have taken human shapes of
+all sizes and several colors now appear and help to present a chaos
+of beauty.</p>
+
+<p>"Two hundred feet more and the chamber ends in a vast waterfall,
+but the water has turned to stone. Above the waterfall is an
+opening, but it is twenty-five feet up a smooth wall and we have no
+ladder. The journey was at an end. Tired, wet and muddy, we started
+on our return trip; recrossed the dark lake, and retraced our steps
+to the place under the opening without realizing that we had spent
+six hours under ground. While the other members of the party, and
+the specimens, were being raised to the surface, the writer sought
+to learn the flora and fauna of this new region. The flora is
+blank. Even the white mold so common in many caves is absent; and
+no fungus grows on the poles, bark and rotten wood that have at
+some past time been cast in.</p>
+
+<p>"In animal life the range is greater. I have mentioned the
+ever-present bats, and dozens of them were seen. There were also
+small, white eyeless salamanders, small, yellow, speckled
+sal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">67</a></span>amanders, with signs of eyes but no sight; also a jet black
+salamander, which like the rest, was blind. The bats were of two
+species&mdash;the common brown bat and the larger light grey or yellow
+species. But this was not the time of the year to see many bats in
+caves. In the summer season most of them go out and remain until
+cool weather, and then return to the caves with their young; so I
+was rather surprised to see as many as we did.</p>
+
+<p>"Down comes the rope for the last time, and taking my place, I soon
+feel myself spinning around and slowly rising. As I again pass the
+magic city I saw going down, a stronger wish than ever takes
+possession of me to go there, and I look for any chance to solve
+the problem of how such a journey can be made. 'Thou art so near
+and yet so far.'</p>
+
+<p>"Suddenly I find myself emerging from the ground into a very hot
+world, with the evening sun blazing so that the air feels like the
+scorching heat of an oven; and my late companions are scattered
+about under the trees, no doubt wishing themselves back in the cool
+regions below the hot cliffs.</p>
+
+<p>"My final conclusions in regard to Fairy Cave were that it was
+about six hundred feet long by from fifteen to forty feet wide and
+from eighty to ninety feet high: that in the upper story there are
+rooms that I could not reach, that will<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">68</a></span> amply pay the scientist
+and explorer to investigate in the future: that probably we reached
+all the accessible parts in the level we traveled: that the
+temperature was fifty-six or very near that degree: that small as
+it is, it contains the finest formations and grandest scenery I
+have ever seen in a cave: and I have examined over one hundred of
+various sizes. I believe that for interior beauty its equal is not
+to be found in America, and I sincerely believe that the verdict of
+future exploration will establish the truth of the assertion, but
+as equally good judges differ on such matters, time will be
+required for a true and just decision. There are yet many promising
+caves to be explored in this region, and if my strength holds out a
+few years I hope to see them all.</p>
+
+<p class="right"><span class="smcap">"T.&nbsp;S. Powell</span>."</p></div>
+
+
+<p class="center">POWELL CAVE.</p>
+
+<p>As a measure of consolation for the disappointment of not seeing the
+beauty of Fairy Cave, Mr. Irwin suggested that only a quarter of a mile
+further on was another, recently discovered and worthy of a visit,
+although small.</p>
+
+<p>In that region of steep hills and sharp-edged rocks, a great amount of
+travel can be added to the experience of a tender-foot in a short
+distance. The quarter of a mile seemed to stretch out in some mysterious
+way as we worked on it, but the variety and abundance of attractions are
+more than ample compensation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">69</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The view was fine, including as it did the deep ravine and grassy,
+wooded slopes rising three hundred feet above, with here and there a
+handsome ledge of marble exposed like the nearly buried ruin of a
+forgotten temple of some past age. Scattered about in great profusion
+among the broken rock on the surface of these hill-sides we observed a
+water deposit of iron ore. It is a brown hematite and in some cases
+shows the structure of the bits of wood it has replaced. Since this
+region has from the earliest time produced a generous growth of
+vegetation, the decay of which has yielded a never-failing supply of
+acids to assist in carving the caves and then in their decoration, the
+presence of the ore is not difficult to account for. The whole Ozark
+uplift being rich in iron, the acidulated drainage waters coming into
+contact dissolved and took it in solution, to re-deposit where and when
+conditions should be favorable. These conditions were found in the basin
+among the hills and along its outlet.</p>
+
+<p>In the Popular Science Monthly of January 1897, a short article by J.&nbsp;T.
+Donald, entitled "A Curious Canadian Iron Mine," describes the same
+thing going on at the present time in Lac a la Tortue, a small body of
+water in the center of a tract of swamp land, which produces the
+vegetation necessary to supply the acid required for a base of
+operation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">70</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Of the manner of deposition he says: "The solution of iron in vegetable
+acid (in which the iron is in what the chemist calls the form of a
+protosalt) is oxidized by the action of the air on the surface of the
+lake into a persalt, which is insoluble, and appears on the surface in
+patches that display the peculiar iridescence characteristic of
+petroleum floating on water. Indeed, not infrequently these films of
+peroxide of iron are incorrectly attributed to petroleum. These films
+become heavy by addition of new particles; they sink through the water,
+and in this manner, in time, a large amount of iron ore is deposited on
+the lake bottom. It must not be supposed that the ore is deposited as a
+fine mud or sediment. On the contrary, in this lake ore, as it is
+called, we have an excellent illustration of what is called
+concretionary action&mdash;that is, the tendency of matter when in a fine
+state of division to aggregate its particles into masses about some
+central nucleus, which may be a fragment of sunken wood, a grain of
+sand, or indeed a pre-formed small mass of itself."</p>
+
+<p>It is claimed for this water ore, which is gathered like oysters, that
+mixed with bog ore and magnetic iron, and smelted with charcoal, the
+result as obtained is strong, durable and high priced.</p>
+
+<p>The curiously elastic quarter of a mile finally yielded to persistent
+toil, and the cave was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">71</a></span> reached. The entrance is sufficiently broad to
+give a good first impression, and is under a heavy ledge of limestone
+which breaks the slope of the hill and is artistically decorated with a
+choice collection of foliage, among which is a coral honeysuckle; the
+fragrant variety grows everywhere. Under the ledge is a narrow
+vestibule, out of the north end of which is a passage about twenty-four
+inches in width, between perpendicular walls, and as steeply inclined as
+the average dwelling-house stairway but without any assisting
+depressions to serve as steps. Mr. Irwin cut a grape vine, and making
+one end secure at the entrance, provided a hand rail, by the aid of
+which I was able to easily descend the stepless way and afterwards
+remount.</p>
+
+<p>The first chamber entered is the principal portion of the cave, and by
+actual measurement is forty-nine feet in length by forty-eight in
+greatest width and the height estimated at fifty feet. On account of
+irregularities it appears smaller but higher. On opposite sides of the
+chamber, at elevation about midway between the floor and ceiling are two
+open galleries. The floor is extremely irregular with its accumulation
+of fallen masses of rock, and the action of water has given to portions
+of the walls the appearance of pillars supporting the arches of the
+roof. The whole aspect is that of a small Gothic chapel. Off to the
+northwest is another room<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">72</a></span> measuring thirty feet in each direction, and
+out of this are several openings, too small to squeeze through, which
+indicate the possible existence of other chambers beyond, but they may
+be only drain pipes.</p>
+
+<p>The cave contains no drip formations, notwithstanding which it is one of
+the most charming, and when invited to name it I called it Powell Cave,
+in honor of the most ardent admirer of caves in that county, and to whom
+I am much indebted for valued assistance.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">3</span></a> Editor of the county news-paper.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">73</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<h3>OTHER STONE COUNTY CAVES.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">GENTRY CAVE.</p>
+
+<p>The cave nearest to Galena, and the first visited by us, is Gentry Cave,
+situated a mile and a half from town. We started in the mail coach, but
+that vehicle met with a misfortune by no means unusual in that region,
+the total wreck of a wheel. Having only that morning arrived from the
+rich agricultural portion of the State where no surface rock can be
+found, we were pleased enough with the prospect of a walk in such
+charming spring weather, and set out with a cheerful certainty that the
+rough place in the road would soon be passed. But the school of
+experience is always open for the reception of new-comers and we were
+admitted to full duty without question.</p>
+
+<p>The topography was nearly as broken, in its way, as the natural "piking"
+spread over it, and very beautiful with the dense forests lighted by the
+slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun. The way leads up to the
+"ridge road" which is at length abandoned for no road at all, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">74</a></span>
+descending through the forest, more than half the distance down to the
+James River flowing at the base of the hill, we come suddenly in view of
+the cave entrance, which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces
+of natural architecture ever seen.</p>
+
+<p>Rounding a corner by a narrow path, we step onto a covered portico
+ninety-seven feet long, with an average width of ten feet. The floor is
+smooth and level, as also is the ceiling, which is nine feet above,
+supported by handsomely carved pillars and rising in a gray cliff
+projecting from the slope of the hill above, out to the brink of the
+more abrupt descent to the water's edge ninety feet below. Between the
+pillars are three large door-ways into the cave. The comparison
+suggested is an Egyptian temple, and the idea is continued within, where
+there are no chambers as in other caves; but instead, the entire
+interior is a labyrinth of passages winding about in every direction
+among an uncounted number of low massive pillars, some supporting a low
+ceiling and others connected by high arches, the highest point being
+estimated at sixty feet, but appearing to be more, because the enclosed
+space rising to a dome is so narrow that the point of view is
+necessarily directly underneath.</p>
+
+<p>All exposed surfaces of pillars and walls inside the cave are of clay or
+a soft porous rock having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">75</a></span> the same appearance, and are covered with
+curious little raised markings like the indescribable designs of mixed
+nothing generally known as "Persian patterns." This is, of course,
+easily explained; the clay being the residuum from disintegrated
+limestone, the markings described are the harder portions of the rock
+remaining after particles of clay had been carried out by flowing water
+while the disintegrating process was yet incomplete.</p>
+
+<p>The Drinking Fountain is considered the great attraction of the cave,
+and appears to have been fashioned to suggest a model for the handsome
+soda fountains belonging to a later period. The water bowl is a large
+depression worn in the top of a rock which seems to have been built into
+the wall. In front it is five feet high and nine feet across, with
+artistic corners approximately alike, and at the back ornamental carving
+extends upward towards the ceiling with an opening through the wall at
+the center. This opening is divided by a short column down which water
+trickles to supply the bowl. The ceiling here is about thirty-five feet
+high and most of the exposed surface is a blue-gray limestone. Only one
+portion of Gentry Cave has received a deposit of dripstone and even that
+is of limited extent, and located at the end of a narrow slippery
+passage between high, slippery walls.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">76</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The fine entrance is of grey limestone in undisturbed horizontal strata,
+and this is so plainly marked in the roof-supporting pillars as to give
+them the appearance of having been prepared by skillful hands, in
+several blocks, and afterwards arranged in place without the aid of
+mortar. Unfortunately, all efforts to photograph this wonderful portico
+have failed to give satisfaction&mdash;its position above the river being
+such as to afford no point for the proper placing of the camera; but a
+second visit made for the purpose of trying was far from being a loss,
+and part of the reward consisted of finding among the sheltered rocks,
+scarcely three feet above the floor, two humming birds' nests with their
+treasure of small eggs, and our little companion who discovered them was
+pleased to leave them untouched.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">SUGAR TREE HOLLOW CAVE.</p>
+
+<p>The name of this cave is due to the fact that the approach is through a
+"hollow" well wooded with sugar maple trees. It is two miles from Galena
+and the drive a beautiful one, as much of the way is through the forest
+without a road, but with a charming little rushing, crooked stream of
+clear, cold water: and in places the green slopes give way to mural
+bluffs of grey limestone in undisturbed strata.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance to the cave is through a hole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">77</a></span> about two feet high by three
+in width, into which we went feet first and wiggled slowly down an
+incline covered with broken rock, for a distance of fifteen feet, where
+a standing depth is reached. A flat, straight, level ceiling extends
+over the whole cave without any perceptible variation, and this is
+bordered around its entire length and breadth with a heavy cornice of
+dripstone, made very ornamental by the forms it assumes, and the
+multitude of depending stalactites that fall as a fringe around the
+walls. The line of contact between the cornice and ceiling is as clear
+and strong as if both had been finished separately before the cornice
+was put in place by skillful hands.</p>
+
+<p>Dripstone covers the walls, which vary in height from one foot to twenty
+feet, according to the irregularities of the floor, just as the width of
+this one-room cave varies with the curves of the walls, which are
+sweeping and graceful, the average being twenty-nine feet, but is much
+greater at the entrance where the entire slope extends out beyond the
+body of the cave. The length, from north to south, measures two hundred
+and thirty-three feet exclusive of an inaccessible extension.</p>
+
+<p>The south end of the cave rises by a steep slope to within a foot of the
+ceiling with which it is connected by short but heavy columns of
+dripstone, and another line of pillars of gradu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">78</a></span>ated height meets this
+at right angles near the middle and ends in an immense stalagmite that
+stands at the foot of the slope like a grand newel post.</p>
+
+<p>There is no standing water in the cave, but everything is wet with drip,
+and consequently the formation of onyx is actively progressing and the
+south slope already mentioned shows a curious succession of changes in
+cave affairs. By the slow action of acidulated waters, the grey
+limestone deteriorated into a yellowish clay-bank, and now its particles
+are being re-united into solid rock by the deposit of calcium carbonate
+from the drip.</p>
+
+<p>A careful test of the temperature of the atmosphere showed it to be
+fifty-eight degrees.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">PINE RUN CAVE.</p>
+
+<p>This also is a small cave easily visited from Galena, being less than
+two miles distant on the Marionville road. The entrance faces the road
+and is on the same level, consequently it is one of the easiest to
+visit. Just within is seen an opening in the ceiling, which we are told
+is one of the two ways to an upper chamber whose chief attraction is a
+dripstone piano, and the means of ascending is at hand in the form of a
+Spanish ladder; but an attempt of that sort might even cause the new
+woman to hesitate, and who hesitates is lost. The ascent was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">79</a></span> made.
+We advanced on a level with the road for a distance of perhaps twenty
+feet, when the direction of the cave changed with a right angular turn
+and we were in a straight gallery about two hundred and fifty feet long
+and fifteen feet in width, the height gradually decreasing to about
+three feet towards the upper end, where it widened out into a low but
+broad chamber. The floor of this chamber is most beautiful. It is
+composed of a series of connected calcite bowls whose beautifully fluted
+rims are of regular and uniform height, and all are equally filled with
+clear, still water. A great number of these basins are said to have been
+destroyed by an ax in the hands of a poor witless creature for the
+gratification of a burst of temper, and a magnificent stalagmitic
+column, too heavy for one man to lift, lay detached and broken, in proof
+that his body did not share the feebleness of his mind.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond these basins is a low passage through which is found the second
+entrance to the upper chamber, but the basins must be crossed in order
+to reach it, and this is not an easy undertaking even when their water
+supply is low, but in the early summer they are almost full.</p>
+
+<p>There are said to be more than one hundred caves in Stone County, one of
+which is supposed to be fully as large as Marble Cave, if not larger,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span>
+and is located in the southern part of the county but has not been
+explored.</p>
+
+<p>Mill Cave is in the northeast of the county, and at the entrance is a
+saw mill which receives its working power from the cave stream. Inside
+the cave there is a lake.</p>
+
+<p>Hermit's Cave is a few miles from Galena, and is so named on account of
+having been used as a dwelling by its former owner, who kept a coffin in
+which he intended to place himself before the final summons, but was
+overtaken by death in the forest and it was never used. He wrote sermons
+on the rocks in his cave and one of these was afterwards removed.</p>
+
+<p>Wolf's Den is also near Galena, and has been utilized as a sheep fold.</p>
+
+<p>Wild Man's Cave is near Galena, and on account of the stories with which
+people have been frightened, can only be visited by permission and with
+a guard stationed at the entrance.</p>
+
+<p>Reynard's Cave is four miles west of Galena on the farm of Dr. Fox, but
+is so nearly filled up with dripstone that only crawling room remains.
+The doctor's place is a fine locality for the collection of fossils.</p>
+
+<p>At a distance of twelve miles from Galena there is said to be a fine
+natural bridge, well worth a visit and sufficiently near Mill Cave for
+both to be seen on the same trip.</p>
+
+<p>In Bread Tray Mountain there is supposed to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">81</a></span> be a cave through which a
+torrent rushes at times, that being the only way in which to explain the
+strange thundering, roaring noise always heard after a storm, and never
+at other times.</p>
+
+<p>Besides being a wonderful cave region, and rich in the great abundance
+and variety of native fruits and fine timber, Stone County has a vast
+amount of mineral wealth, the heaviest deposits being zinc, lead and
+iron, with some indications of silver, gold and copper, which have been
+found but not in paying quantity. Already since the summer of 1896
+several exceptionally pure bodies of zinc have been discovered, the
+white ore of one recently opened deposit giving highly gratifying
+indications as to extent. Prospecting may be said to have only commenced
+in this very far from over-crowded region.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">82</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<h3>OREGON COUNTY CAVES.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">GREER SPRING.</p>
+
+<p>Oregon County is also at the extreme southern limit of the State of
+Missouri and was visited, not because its caves are supposed to be
+either finer or more numerous than those of all the other Ozark
+counties, but on account of remarkable attractions associated with them
+that are not known to be equaled, or even subject to rivalry, by any
+similar works of nature in any portion of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The most convenient railway point is Thayer; the station hotel affords
+comfortable accommodations for headquarters, and the last days of
+September proved a charming time. The foliage was in full summer glory,
+refreshed by a gentle and copious rain, and the insinuating tick had
+already retired from active business until the following season.</p>
+
+<p>The carriage having been ordered on condition of its being a clear day,
+we left Thayer at eight o'clock on a perfect morning to visit Greer
+Spring, and were soon in the depth of the beautiful Ozark forest, from
+which we did not once<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">83</a></span> emerge until Alton, the county seat, was reached,
+the distance traveled being sixteen miles. Here we stopped for dinner at
+the small hotel kept by one of the old-time early settlers who came to
+the region before the war. The dinner was a surprise, and received the
+highest commendation possible to a dinner, the hearty appreciation of a
+boy. A young nephew, Arthur J. Owen, having been invited to act as
+escort on the trip, found all the varied experience in cave hunting
+fully equal to the pictured joys of anticipation. After a large bell
+suspended somewhere outside had notified the business public that dinner
+was ready to be served, we were invited to the dining-room, where on a
+long table was the abundance of vegetables afforded by the season and
+soil of an almost tropical state, and cooked as the white-capped chef of
+the great hotel, where the warm weeks were spent, had not learned the
+secret of; and the delicately fried chicken was not of that curious
+variety, commonly encountered by travelers, in which the development of
+legs robs the centiped of his only claim to distinction. As the dishes
+cooled they were removed and fresh supplies brought in.</p>
+
+<p>Our driver received directions about the road and we started on another
+drive of seven miles. These directions were "to follow the main road to
+the forks, and then keep to the Van Buren<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">84</a></span> road and any one could tell
+us where Captain Greer lives."</p>
+
+<p>The road was, as before, through the park-like forest, and as before,
+lay chiefly along the ridge, so that where clearings had been made for
+farms there were fine views over the distant country, which everywhere
+was forest-covered hills, of a rich green near at hand but changing with
+the growth of distance, first to dark, and then to lighter blue.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">In these forests were fine young cattle and horses, and uncounted
+numbers of "razorbacks," or as they are otherwise called,
+"wind-splitters." For the benefit of those who may not be familiar with
+the names, it might be well to explain that they are the natural heirs
+of the native wild hog of Missouri and Arkansas. The nephew was greatly
+amused at seeing many of them with wooden yokes on their long necks, to
+prevent an easy entrance into fields and gardens by squeezing through
+the spaces between fence rails. These animals are such swift runners it
+is said they can safely cross the railroad between trucks of the fast
+express. Their snouts are so long and thin, it is also claimed that two
+can drink from a jug at the same time; never having seen it done,
+however, this is not vouched for, but merely repeated as hearsay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo13.jpg" width="450" height="349" alt="Wilderness Pinery, Oregon Co." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Wilderness Pinery, Oregon Co. <a href="#Page_84">Page 84.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After a time we stopped to inquire the way of an old man dipping water
+from a pond by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">85</a></span> roadside. He told us he was dipping water to wash
+the wheat he was sowing in the field just over the fence, and that we
+reach the forks, then to keep the Van Buren road, pass two houses on the
+left, a white one on the right, another on the left and then inquire the
+way&mdash;anyone could tell us, and Captain Greer would show us to the
+Spring, "for he is a mighty accommodating man."</p>
+
+<p>On we went to the forks where in the point of the Y stood a large tree
+with a Van Buren sign-board on one side, and in the direction it
+pointed, we turned, although rather reluctantly, for it looked little
+used and rocky, while the other was in good condition; but we followed
+the sign-board and had no misgivings until it began to be realized that
+a great deal of time was being passed but no houses. The morning had
+been very chilly, but now the atmosphere was just at that balmy point
+between warm and cool that makes mere living an unqualified luxury; and
+added to this we soon found ourselves in a deep ca&ntilde;on no less beautiful
+than the justly celebrated North Cheyenne Ca&ntilde;on near Colorado Springs.</p>
+
+<p>There was now no doubt that we were on the wrong road, but such
+magnificence was unexpected and not to be turned from with indifference.</p>
+
+<p>For some distance the road makes a gradual and rather perilous looking
+descent along the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">86</a></span> steep and broken slope on the shady side of the
+ancient river's great retaining-wall, while that opposite is glorified
+by the brilliant glow of the afternoon sun, which adds an equal charm to
+the rich, luxuriant foliage below and the tall stately pines that adorn,
+without concealing, the grey rock they proudly cling to, or that rises
+in a protecting rampart three hundred feet higher than the ca&ntilde;on bed,
+with banners of the long-needled pine waving above to proclaim the
+perfection of Nature's undisturbed freedom.</p>
+
+<p>The road descending crosses the thread of water still flowing among the
+great rounded bowlders left by the former torrent, and our view is
+changed to one of dense, but by no means melancholy, shadows, with a
+crown of golden sunlight; and presently the course of the ca&ntilde;on turns to
+the east, and it is all filled with the yellow rays and we notice the
+bright red hawthorn berries, and masses of hydrangea still showing
+remnants of their late profusion of bloom. We Missourians have a great
+love of fine scenery and generally take long journeys into other states
+in order to gratify the taste, while quite unconscious of the wonderful
+beauty and grandeur of the Ozarks.</p>
+
+<p>Where the ca&ntilde;on begins to broaden into a small sheltered valley as it
+approaches Eleven Points River, we turned and retraced our way to the
+forks, and a short distance beyond to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">87</a></span> house where we might again
+inquire. A woman came to the open door as we stopped and in answer to a
+question said: "You ought to have asked me when you passed here a while
+ago."</p>
+
+<p>Apologies for the seeming neglect were offered and accepted, then she
+explained that both roads went to Van Buren but not to Greer Spring,
+where in due time we at length arrived.</p>
+
+<p>The house being in one corner of a "forty" and the spring in that
+diagonally opposite, there was a walk of nearly that distance before
+coming to an old road inclining steeply down into what looked to be a
+narrow ca&ntilde;on. About midway of this sloping road, the space confined
+between perpendicular walls, rising to heights above on one side and
+descending to the stream on the other, widens suddenly and a picturesque
+old mill comes into view, it having been wholly screened from the
+approach by the rich growth of shrubs and trees. Chief in abundance
+among this luxury of leaf was the hydrangea,&mdash;a favorite shrub largely
+imported into this country from Japan before it was discovered as a
+native. The mill site seems to have been selected for its beauty
+although we were told that at this point the stream is seventy-two feet
+wide, and two and one half feet deep, but could be raised thirty feet
+with perfect safety by a dam, for which the rock is already on the
+ground and much of it broken<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">88</a></span> ready for use. The flow is said to be two
+hundred and eighty yards per minute, with no appreciable variation, and
+never freezes. The high walls of the Greer Spring gorge will, of course,
+far more than double the value it would otherwise possess, when it
+becomes desirable to control and turn to practical account the power now
+going so cheerily to waste, but the artistic loss will be
+proportionately severe.</p>
+
+<p>The old mill was the scene of great activity in former times, but was
+closed on account of an unfortunate accident and for years has had no
+other duty than simply to serve as a portion of the landscape.</p>
+
+<p>Just beyond, the ca&ntilde;on makes a curving bend, the road dwindles to a
+narrow path and we behold the most beautiful scene imaginable.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">The ca&ntilde;on has come to an end and is shut in by a graceful curve of the
+high, perpendicular grey walls that are crowned with trees and shrubs,
+and decked below with a thick carpet of bright green moss. In this
+basin, which is nearly one hundred feet across, Greer Spring plunges up
+from beneath through an opening nine feet in diameter, in the midst of a
+pool of water six feet deep, and having an unvarying temperature of
+forty-nine degrees throughout the year. This water is so perfectly clear
+that not the least pebble is obscured from view, and the color scheme is
+most marvelous.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo14.jpg" width="450" height="332" alt="Greer Spring." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Greer Spring. <a href="#Page_88">Page 88.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">89</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Where the great spring forces its way to the surface, the water is a
+deep, brilliant blue with white caps, and its falling weight keeps clear
+of moss a large spot of fine, pure, white sandstone, while all the
+balance appears a vivid green from the moss that thrives beneath the
+moving water; and surrounding these are the handsome, foliage-decked
+grey walls. The edges of the basin are thickly strewn with fallen rocks
+deeply covered with moss, in which small ferns are growing, and on these
+gay stepping stones we crossed to the head-wall of the ca&ntilde;on to find
+ourselves at the open mouth of a cave from which flows a clear, shallow
+stream to join the waters of the Spring in that wonderful basin. The
+entrance to the cave is an arch about fifteen feet wide and twelve feet
+high, with the clear, shallow stream spreading over the clean rock floor
+from side to side. Here now was presented a difficulty. Truly the cave
+was <i>not</i> quite dry. The water was about ten inches deep, and my boots
+in Thayer. Contrary to advice, however, my nephew had brought his, and
+with a boy's kindness loaned them while he made the trip with bare feet
+and rolled up trousers.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance within, the cave widens and the floor of the extension
+being somewhat higher, is dry, but the roof drops so low over it that
+the water-course is an easier route of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">90</a></span> travel; and this soon widens
+into a lake above which the ceiling rises in a broad dome less than
+twenty feet in height, and hung with heavy masses of dripstone draperies
+of varying length, from five to seven feet; and all the ceilings are
+fringed at various heights with stalactites of every size and age, some
+being a clear, colorless onyx, while others proclaim their great age in
+the fact that they have so deteriorated that the onyx texture is either
+partly or completely lost, and what was once a pure drip crystal has
+returned to a common, porous, dull-colored limestone so soft that
+portions can be rubbed to powder in the hand.</p>
+
+<p>Picking the way carefully as the depth of the lovely lake increased, we
+followed the sound of falling water and peered into the dark distance in
+a vain effort to see it, yet expecting to reach that special object of
+interest by keeping to the shallower parts of the lake. These
+expectations were shattered suddenly when the boots filled with water,
+and that called to mind the fact that twenty-three miles and a chilly
+night lay between us and dry clothing; so we returned to the outside
+world and rested on the rocks where Captain Greer and our young driver
+waited for us. The cave has never been fully explored, and probably we
+penetrated farther than others have ever done, as the owner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">91</a></span> knew
+nothing of the falling water we so distinctly heard and were surely very
+near.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the rocks is wonderfully beautiful and includes both the
+entrance to the cave, with its flowing stream, and the receiving basin
+with its bounding stream. But it was growing late in the afternoon, and
+there was another cave whose entrance was in the perpendicular wall
+above the end of the path by which we had come. This entrance could be
+reached by a dilapidated ladder; assisted by a forked pole and supplied
+with candles and matches, my nephew and I achieved the ascent with not
+much trouble. Here we found what is, no doubt, one of the oldest caves
+known.</p>
+
+<p>The original cavity is nearly filled up with masses of onyx&mdash;colorless
+crystal and white striped with pale shades of grey. The cave is
+perfectly dry and freshly broken surfaces in some places show signs of
+deterioration, so how can we venture even a guess as to the time it has
+required to first excavate the cave and then fill it with masses of rock
+deposited by the slow drip process, and later, for that crystalline rock
+in a now dry atmosphere to present a perceptible weakening? We went as
+far as passages could be crawled into, which was no great distance, and
+at once started on our uncertain descent of the ladder; but this was not
+a matter of so much concern as the upward trip, for the success<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">92</a></span> of
+which some doubts were entertained; for going down is always naturally a
+less certain matter, as one can fall if more desirable means are
+unsuccessful, and I have unexpectedly reached many coveted points in
+this simple manner.</p>
+
+<p>Taking a last look at Greer Spring with its cave river, grey walls, gay
+with foliage, and all the harmony of color and form combined in the
+narrow ca&ntilde;on that was once the main body of a great cave, I recalled
+views on the Hudson River and in the mountains of Maryland, Virginia and
+Pennsylvania, and others out in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado and the
+Wausatch in Utah, but amid all their wonderful grandeur and famous
+beauty, could remember no spot superior to this masterpiece of the
+Ozarks.</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor of the Spring and a thousand acres of land adjacent, took
+personal possession on the day of Lincoln's first election, to establish
+a home.</p>
+
+<p>The sun having failed to consider our wishes was now about to disappear
+in a gleaming flood of gold, so the return to Thayer that night was out
+of the question. Our host and his wife observed that fact and cordially
+invited us to remain for the night and as much longer as we would like
+to, but being unwilling to impose on kindness to such an extent, we
+returned to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> hotel in Alton, and now urgently advise that those who
+ever have an opportunity to enjoy a moonlight drive through the Ozark
+forests should not let it pass unimproved.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">OTHER CAVES NEAR BY.</p>
+
+<p>About twelve miles from Alton there are three other caves worthy of
+attention. Two of these are known only as The Saltpetre Caves, and the
+third as The Bat Cave.</p>
+
+<p>Not many persons care to visit the Bat Cave, for although its
+inhabitants are small, they have evidently decided to profit by the
+experience of the Red Man and take no risks through hospitality. Their
+warnings can be heard like distant thunder for some distance outside the
+cave, and any unheeding intruder is set upon in fury by such vast
+numbers of the little creatures that his only safety is in hasty
+retreat.</p>
+
+<p>During the war the two Saltpetre Caves were worked to a considerable
+extent, and also served as safe retreats for the residents of the
+region, as well as the visiting "Jonny," when the vicinity became
+oppressively "blue."</p>
+
+<p>Both of these caves are especially notable on account of the fine
+stalactites with which they are abundantly supplied; most of them being
+snow white and from fourteen to twenty feet in length.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, most of the caves in this region have been deprived of
+great quantities of their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">94</a></span> beautiful adornments by visitors who are
+allowed to choose the best and remove it in such quantities as may suit
+their convenience and pleasure. Those who own the caves, and those who
+visit them, would do well to remember that if all the natural adornment
+should be allowed to remain in its original position, it would continue
+to afford pleasure to many persons for an indefinite time; but if
+broken, removed, and scattered the pleasure to a few will be
+comparatively little and that short-lived. The gift of beauty should
+always be honored and protected for the public good.</p>
+
+<p>We were not so fortunate as to discover fossils of any kind in this
+locality, although the search was by no means thorough; but even if it
+had been the result might have been the same, since that county and
+others adjoining have been mapped as Cambrian. The greater part of the
+exposed rock is a fine sandstone almost as white as gypsum on a fresh
+fracture, and much of it is ripple-marked so as to show a beautifully
+fluted surface of remarkable regularity. These ripple flutings are
+sometimes more than an inch in width, and often less, but the variations
+never appear on the same level, the smallest being seen on the hill-tops
+and the larger outcropping on the downward slopes.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE GRAND GULF.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Oregon County, Missouri, is also fortunate in having within its limits
+the Grand Gulf, which has been declared by competent judges to be one of
+the wonders of the world; and it offers a combination of attractions
+that certainly entitles it to an important place among a limited few of
+America's choicest scenes.</p>
+
+<p>The Gulf is nearly nine miles northwest of Thayer, Missouri, and about
+equally distant from Mammoth Spring in Arkansas, just a little south of
+the Missouri state line. The drive is a pleasant one, as the road winds
+among the forest-clad hills and passes occasional fields of cotton and
+corn; but having been macadamized in very ancient times by the original
+and all-powerful general government of that early period is somewhat
+rough, yet threatens no danger greater than the destruction of wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The only approach to the Gulf is over the hill-tops; and the entrance in
+past times, while it was still a cave, must have been a sink-hole in the
+roof of the largest chamber. This chamber is now the upper end of the
+Grand Gulf, and into<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">96</a></span> it we descended by a rugged path, sufficiently
+difficult to maintain expectations of grandeur that are not doomed to
+disappointment. The precipitous walls, two hundred feet in height, bear
+a faithful record of the energy of circling floods; but instead of
+frowning, as some good people persistently accuse all noble heights of
+doing, they seem to look with conscious pride towards the windings of
+the great rough chasm, where every available spot has been seized on as
+a homestead for some form of vegetation. All the great, dark rock masses
+that interfere with easy progress along the lowest depth, were
+surrounded by a feathery setting of blooming white agaratum; and each
+turn in the winding course reveals new charms of rock and verdure with
+their varying lights and shadows until the crowning glory is reached at
+the Natural Bridge, about twelve hundred feet from the upper end of the
+ca&ntilde;on. This bridge is magnificent. It was impossible to secure
+photographs because the abrupt curve by which it is approached gave no
+point of view for a small camera; and it was equally impossible to reach
+desirable points for taking measurements, but the open arch is not less
+than twenty feet wide and considerably more than that in height. From
+the floor or bed of the Gulf to the road that crosses the bridge is more
+than two hundred feet. The passage under the bridge makes a curve, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span>
+shortest side of which measures exactly two hundred and nineteen feet,
+and as the width varies from twenty to forty feet, the other side is
+longer. Most of the floor is flat and level as also is the ceiling, the
+greatest irregularities being along the wall of greater length which
+shows at what points the rushing water has spent its force. No water
+flows through here now except in times of heavy rainfall. The other end
+of the bridge has a somewhat smaller span but is very handsome, and the
+outward views from both are exceedingly fine. After traversing about
+four hundred feet more of the beautiful, high-walled Gulf, we stood
+before the grand entrance to the cave, which is strikingly similar to
+the first arch of the bridge. The only picture I was able to get was
+taken from the slope of the Bridge-crown, one hundred feet below the
+road, and merely gives a suggestion of the magnificence waiting
+peacefully for the crowds of eager and enthusiastic sight-seers who will
+in the near future rush to this charming region in the "Land of the Big
+Red Apple."</p>
+
+<p>My companions were the same as mentioned in the preceding chapter, a
+nephew, James Arther Owen, and an obliging, tall young man of twenty,
+who acted as guide and driver.</p>
+
+<p>Relieving ourselves of all superfluous burdens just within the cave
+entrance, we lighted candles and sat down to wait for our eyes to
+adjust<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> themselves to the changed condition, from brilliant sunlight to
+absolute darkness, broken only by the feeble strength of three candles.
+It was noticeable that in the moist atmosphere of the Missouri caves,
+three candles were not more than equal to one in the dry caves of South
+Dakota.</p>
+
+<p>Very soon we were able to continue the inspection of our surroundings,
+and the large passage we were in would more properly be called a long
+chamber, of irregular width but averaging about thirty feet. This ends
+abruptly nearly five hundred feet from the entrance, but a small passage
+scarcely more than six feet high runs off at right angles, and into this
+we turn. It is not quite so nearly dry as the outer chamber, and at a
+distance of less than one hundred feet we suddenly come to the end of
+dry land at an elbow of the silently flowing river whose channel we had
+almost stepped into. The ceiling dipped so we were not able to stand
+straight, and the guide said he had never gone farther; but to his
+surprise here was a light boat which I am ready to admit he displayed no
+eagerness to appropriate to his own use, and swimming about it, close to
+shore, were numerous small, eyeless fish, pure white and perfectly
+fearless; the first I had ever seen, and little beauties.</p>
+
+<p>By burning magnesium ribbon we saw that the passage before us was a low
+arch and occu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">99</a></span>pied from wall to wall by water, the direction of the flow
+being into another of somewhat greater size at right angles to that by
+which we had come, and at the mouth of this lay the boat. The distance
+we could see in either direction was of tantalizing shortness, and the
+boat was provided with no means of guidance or control, save an
+abundance of slender twine which secured it to a log of drift from the
+outside; so I decided to leave my companions in charge of the main coil
+of twine while I went on an excursion alone, there being not much
+evident cause for apprehension as no living cow could ever have made the
+trip to this favored spot.</p>
+
+<p>Although the water looked perfectly placid, the boat drifted with
+surprising speed, so that the two scared faces peering after me were
+soon lost sight of. The channel was nowhere more than six feet wide,
+consequently as the boat inclined to drive against either wall I was
+able with care to keep it off the rocks with my hands, and in the same
+way guide it around the sharp turns in safety. After several of these
+turns there appeared the mouth of a passage so much smaller that the
+roof was only twelve inches above the sides of the boat and I could
+touch both walls at the same time. By running the boat across this it
+was held in place by the current, and I could sit at ease and enjoy the
+position, which even the least imaginative<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> person can readily conceive
+to have been a novel one.</p>
+
+<p>The small eyeless fish had been noticeable in the water everywhere but
+now came swimming about the boat in an astonishing multitude, and as
+unconscious of any possible danger as bees in a flower garden. Having no
+eyes, they were naturally undisturbed by the light, so the candle could
+be held close to the water for a satisfactory examination of the happy
+creatures.</p>
+
+<p>They bore a striking resemblance to minnows, although a few were larger,
+and it is claimed that four or five inches are sizes not unusual, but
+they happened not to be on exhibition. Even dipping a hand into the
+water in their midst occasioned no alarm, and they might have been
+caught by dozens.</p>
+
+<p>The guide now loudly called that he had fears of the twine being cut on
+the sharp edges of rock, and that cutting off all possibility of the
+boat's return, which being sufficiently reasonable, explorations were
+indefinitely suspended, and a landing soon made. The camera and
+flash-light were then prepared for taking a view, and a point of light
+being needed to work by the nephew was asked to sit in the boat with his
+candle, to which he readily consented; but judging from the developed
+picture it may be doubted if his pleasure at the time was extremely
+keen.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On leaving the cave the guide said it would not be necessary to return
+to the upper end of the Gulf in order to reach the surface, as the
+ascent could be made in another place; and leading the way to the left
+of the entrance he started up the nearly perpendicular wall, more than
+two hundred feet high, by a sort of "blind trail" that would have caused
+a mountain sheep to sigh for wings, but it was very beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>We walked over to the wagon road on the high ridge above the middle of
+the bridge and going down the forest-clad slopes to the perpendicular
+wall in which is the smaller of the great arches, admired from this fair
+point of view the marvelous grandeur of one of the greatest natural
+wonders.</p>
+
+<p>The weather being perfect after a rain the day before, there was no need
+of haste to get indoors, so we lingered into the afternoon and then
+drove to the Mammoth Spring, in Arkansas, a short distance south of the
+Missouri state line, where the Cave River, just visited, comes to the
+surface in a bounding spring of great force. The distance being little
+less than nine miles.</p>
+
+<p>The basin filled by the Spring might be called a lake, as its size of
+two hundred by three hundred feet gives it that appearance, and the
+color is a remarkable deep blue. The volume of water is so nearly
+uniform that the height<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> seldom varies more than two or three inches,
+but three years ago a storm of unusual violence carried out most of the
+native fish, and in restocking from Government supplies, the clear, cold
+water suggested an experiment with mountain trout which are found to be
+doing well.</p>
+
+<p>Where Mammoth Spring flows out its power is utilized by a flour mill on
+one bank and a cotton mill on the other, and the water flowing on forms
+Spring River, well known for the charm of its beautiful scenery.</p>
+
+<p>This Spring is described by Dr. David Dale Owen in his First Report of a
+Geological Reconnoissance of the northern counties of Arkansas, 1857 and
+1858, pp. 60-61.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">103</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE BLACK HILLS AND BAD LANDS.</h3>
+
+
+<p>In order to thoroughly appreciate and enjoy the wonderful caves of South
+Dakota, which are found within the limits of the Black Hills, it is
+necessary to have some knowledge of the geological character and history
+of that peculiar region.</p>
+
+<p>Prof. J.&nbsp;E. Todd, State Geologist, in his "Preliminary Report on the
+Geology of South Dakota," gives an interesting "Historical Sketch of
+Explorations" in his state, beginning with the expedition of Captains
+Lewis and Clark to the upper Missouri regions in 1804-6 to explore that
+portion of the recent Louisiana Purchase for the government and notify
+the Indians of the transfer; and including all other important
+expeditions since that time down to his own official tour of the Black
+Hills and Bad Lands in 1894. His own descriptions are so concise and
+graphic as to invite quotation. Of the Hills he says:</p>
+
+<p>"The Black Hills have an area of five-thousand square miles of a rudely
+elliptical form with its major axis, approximately, north-northwest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span>
+Most of this area lies within our state. The true limit of the Hills is
+quite distinctly marked by a sharp ridge of sandstone, three hundred to
+six hundred feet in relative height, which becomes broader and more
+plateau-like towards the north and south ends. This ridge is separated
+from the higher mass of hills within by a valley one to three miles in
+breadth, which is known as the Red Valley, from its brick-red soil, or
+the 'race course,' which name was given it by the Indians because of its
+open and smooth character, affording easy and rapid passage around the
+Hills. The junction of the outer base of the Hills with the surrounding
+table lands has an altitude of three thousand, five hundred to four
+thousand feet. Within this Red Valley one gradually ascends the outer
+slope of the Hills and soon enters, at an altitude of four thousand five
+hundred or five thousand feet, the woody portion of the region. This
+outer slope varies greatly in width and is underlaid by older
+sedimentary rocks, cut in almost every direction by narrow deep ca&ntilde;ons.
+This feature covers nearly the whole of the western half of the Hills
+proper, where erosion has been less active on account of its distance
+from the main channels of drainage. Usually, from the broken interior
+edge of this slope or sedimentary plateau one descends a bluff or
+escarpment, and enters the central area of slates, granite,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span> and
+quartzites, which is carved into high ridges and sharp peaks cut by many
+narrow and deep valleys and ravines and generally thickly timbered with
+the common pine of the Rocky Mountains. Toward the south, about Harney
+Peak, the surface is peculiarly rugged and difficult to traverse. Toward
+the north, also, about Terry and Custer peaks, a smaller rugged surface
+appears; but in the central area between and extending west of the
+Harney range is a region which is characterized by open and level parks
+much lower than the surrounding peaks and ridges."</p>
+
+<p>The Arch&aelig;an rocks which form the core of the Hills mark the center of
+the various uplifts which have attended their formation and controlled
+their history. The coarse granite of Harney Peak indicating that, as the
+central point of the earliest upheaval, and the three porphyries known
+as rhyolite, trachyte, and phonolite, showing the uplifts of later
+periods to have had their centers a little more to the north, but the
+entire area is said to be only about sixty miles long and twenty-five
+miles in width. It is exceptionally rough and mountainous, and
+consequently has great charms for the lover of fine scenery. Erosion has
+only partially denuded the peaks of the sedimentary rocks through which
+they were thrust up, or by which they were overlaid during the earlier
+part of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> several subsequent periods of submersion. The Hills, in these
+remote times, led but a doubtful and precarious existence, being now an
+isolated island rising out of a shallow sea, and then, owing to a
+general subsidence, submerged in the ocean to so great a depth that even
+Harney Peak is supposed to have almost, if not entirely, disappeared.
+This up and down motion continued at intervals until the Fox Hills epoch
+of the Cretaceous Age, at the close of which the sea retired forever
+from that portion of the country. In the next epoch fresh water work
+began and extensive marshes were formed, with an abundant growth of
+vegetation and reptiles. There was also much volcanic violence which
+resulted in the fine scenery in the north end of the Black Hills, and
+probably opened the fissures to form Wind Cave, the Onyx Caves in the
+southern hills and Crystal Cave near the eastern edge toward the north.
+This was near the close of the Cretaceous Age. But here is a point on
+which the best authorities who have studied the porphyry peaks, have
+failed to agree; Prof. N.&nbsp;H. Winchell believing that the intrusion
+occurred, probably, during the Jura Trias, but as Cretaceous beds, of
+more recent date, are found to have been distorted by the outflow, it
+seems that Professors Todd, Newton and Carpenter hold the stronger
+position and that the later time is correct.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">107</a></span></p>
+
+<p>No record of the next geological stage, which was the Eocene, or earlier
+part of the Tertiary Age, has been found in the Hills, because they were
+at that time dry land with gently flowing, shallow streams, and
+consequently no strata were laid down; but they are supposed, through
+later evidences, to have had a tropical climate and vegetation, enjoyed
+by large animals of strange new forms. The volume of fresh water
+afterwards became so great that immense lakes spread over large portions
+of the west, one of which occupied most of the region around the Black
+Hills at the beginning of the Miocene, and animal life was more abundant
+than ever before and of higher orders, many species being the same as
+are now in existence. The weather became more and more inclement and as
+the storms increased the erosion of the Hills also increased, and the
+rivers changed to torrents with deep channels. Earthquakes are supposed
+to have occurred and also volcanic eruptions.</p>
+
+<p>The Black Hills were now rising steadily, and as the slope of the
+streams increased, the channels cut deeper, and the fissures now known
+as caves had long been filled with water.</p>
+
+<p>The most important of the numerous animals of the Tertiary Age yet
+discovered in the Hills and surrounding region, are the Titanotherium or
+Brontotherium, similar to our Hippopotamus, the Oreodon, and a small
+horse having three<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">108</a></span> toes on each foot. A little later in the same Age
+the horses were similar to those of the present time and of equal size,
+which proves that the wild horses of the West were not descended from
+the few lost by the Spanish Invaders. At this time the first lions,
+camels, mastodons, and mammoths also appeared. The remains of these
+animals are so abundant in places as to indicate that they perished in
+herds that were overwhelmed suddenly by great floods, and many, no
+doubt, huddled together and perished with cold; for with the beginning
+of the present age the Hills had reached their highest elevation, the
+inclement weather increased, and the tropical climate suddenly changed
+to one extremely cold. It was the beginning of the Glacial Period or Ice
+Age, when a large portion of the United States is supposed to have been
+covered by a sheet of ice. The ice is believed to have entered South
+Dakota from the northeast and its drift across the state limited by a
+line so closely following the present course of the Missouri River that
+many of us would be inclined to consider it the western bluff. Beyond
+this line the ice failed to push its way, but the Hills were subject to
+heavy rain storms that filled the streams and carried large quantities
+of bowlders and other eroded material, both coarse and fine, down into
+the valleys and over the lower hills, where much of the moderately
+coarse can now<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">109</a></span> be seen exposed on the surface, and fine specimens
+collected without the use of a hammer. The brilliantly colored, striped
+and mottled agates, and the bright, delicate tints of the quartz
+crystal, are particularly attractive to the majority of visitors. The
+beauty of these gaily colored rocks is quite extensively utilized by the
+inhabitants of the southern and southeastern hills to supply the place
+of growing plants which are generally denied by the inconvenience of the
+water supply. The quartzite of the Hills is well crystallized and heavy.
+I have one beautiful specimen of the dark Indian red variety through
+which passes a narrow line of pale blue, and the yellow quartzite or
+jasper sometimes shows dendrite markings. Very great quantities of
+agates and jasper, mostly in small pieces, but unlimited variety, are to
+be seen in portions of the Bad Lands, south of the fork of the Cheyenne
+River, with an almost equal abundance of baculites and numerous other
+fossils.</p>
+
+<p>The wide expanse of deep ravines and sharp, barren ridges in the Bad
+Lands is a unique departure from the usual phases of natural scenery
+that inspire interest and wonder, but no great admiration, until one
+soon learns that the law of compensation has been strictly observed. The
+beauty of vegetation denied those desolate buttes and ridges is atoned
+for by a marvelous abundance of most wonderful crystals of aragon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">110</a></span>ite,
+calcite, barite and satin spar; each to itself, or two or more combined
+in beautiful geodes or else arranged in great flat slabs crystallized on
+both sides of a thin sheet of lime. These slabs are composed of crystals
+of uniform size and of a pale green tint. But the geodes show some
+striking combinations of both crystals and colors with an exterior
+formed like box work, composed of a very heavy dark material said to be
+a mixture of barium, calcium and iron. The interior may be a bright
+green or lemon yellow, or perhaps the two in combination, while others
+yet may be either of these varieties with the addition of flat crystals
+of almost transparent satin spar. These crystals also occur in masses of
+the same box-like formation rising just so much above the surface of the
+barren ridge they occupy as to give it the appearance of a prairie dog
+town. One hill-top over which an abundance of detached crystals, of the
+palest water-green tint, has been spread, gave the impression of being
+covered with crushed ice. This transformation from a richly tropical to
+a marvelously barren region, was accomplished during the time when
+storms reigned over the Hills and ice ruled the country to the north and
+east.</p>
+
+<p>The long slender barite crystals of a bright golden brown color are
+especially beautiful but are generally seen in the specimen stores, as
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">111</a></span> deposit is confined to limited areas and the few persons familiar
+with the locations are not over anxious to introduce the general public.</p>
+
+<p>The fossil remains previously referred to are of course only a few of
+the most important, but it is remarked as a curious and notable fact
+that among the fossils of the lower orders of life in the Bad Lands, the
+heads have not been preserved. On account of scarcity of water it is
+necessary for parties to carry a supply even when they expect to be in
+the vicinity of the Cheyenne River and probably ford the South fork, as
+these waters carry in solution a quantity of alkali that renders them
+unfit for drinking, although the effects would not be fatal but simply
+the extreme reverse of pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>No caves have been discovered in the Bad Lands, unless that name be
+applied to some of the geodes which are really grottoes, they being of
+sufficient size for a man to stand in. The Black Hills, however, contain
+some of the most remarkable caves ever yet discovered, of which those of
+greatest importance are Wind Cave and the three Onyx Caves near Hot
+Springs, in the southeastern part of the Hills, and Crystal Cave near
+Piedmont, in the northeast. All of these occur in the Carboniferous
+Limestone which forms an outer belt around the central mass or core of
+the Hills and no doubt, as previously<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">112</a></span> suggested, owes its fissures to
+earthquakes which preceded or accompanied the porphyry intrusions by
+which in some localities its strata have been thrown into a vertical
+position.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">113</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<h3>WIND CAVE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Wind Cave was discovered in 1881 by a hunter named Thomas Bingham, who
+being weary of a fruitless chase sat down to rest, and was soon startled
+by the sound of rushing wind on a calm day; and at the same time by a
+singular hair-raising sensation, as his hat was lifted from his head and
+thrown high in the air. He is said to have afterwards declared that
+although frightened nearly out of his wits, he determined to find the
+cause of his alarm, and on turning slightly discovered a hole about
+eight by twelve inches in size through which a roaring wind was issuing
+from the earth. As his hair maintained the aggressive attitude taken,
+the recovered hat could not be returned to its usual place, so an hour
+was spent in laying it across the opening and watching its instant
+projection into upper space; after which he set out to tell of the
+wonderful discovery. The announcement, however, was not received
+seriously and he was assured of the impossibility of the wind blowing
+through a hill of solid rock, and his brother explained to him that he
+had been too self-indul<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">114</a></span>gent and consequently imagined the whole affair.
+A protest of total abstinence failed to inspire confidence, but the
+brother promised to go the next day to see for himself, and did. The hat
+was again placed over the opening as before, but instead of taking the
+expected lofty flight, it was drawn in and has never since been seen:
+the current had reversed. Soon after this the hole was enlarged to
+eighteen by thirty inches and the cave entered by quite a number of
+venturesome persons assisted by a long rope and ample personal courage.
+No other improvements were made, and only a short distance was explored,
+until Mr. J.&nbsp;D. McDonald settled on the property in 1890; since which
+time he and his sons have explored ninety-seven miles of passage and
+done such extensive work in opening up small passages and placing
+ladders, that it is now possible for visitors to travel long distances
+with surprising ease and comfort. The measure of distances in the cave
+is not by the usual guess-work method which has established the
+short-measure reputation for cave miles, but is done with a fair degree
+of accuracy by means of the twine used to mark the trail in exploring
+new passages. A careful measurement of the twine has shown it to run
+nine balls to the mile with a close average of regularity, so it is the
+custom to add another mile to the cave record as often as a ninth ball
+becomes exhausted.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Wind Cave is twelve miles north of Hot Springs by a good road which
+offers somewhat meager attractions to the artist, but is more liberal
+towards the geologist, and especially so in fine exposures of the gypsum
+bearing Red Beds of the Triassic. Limited patches of it are also exposed
+in each of the caves, generally carrying small quantities of selenite,
+which is crystallized gypsum, or in other words, crystallized sulphate
+of lime. This brilliant red color is so prominent in portions of the
+Hills, and attracts so much wondering attention in other well known
+regions of the West, that it would seem an unpardonable neglect of
+opportunity should we fail to again quote Prof. Todd for an explanation
+of the cause of the vivid coloring. Commencing he says: "Newton remarks
+concerning this:<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">4</a> 'A large percentage of peroxide of iron in the red
+beds, to which they owe their bright red color, bears an interesting
+relation to the absence of fossils. The material of which sediments are
+formed is derived, by the various processes of denudation, from the
+rocks of older land surfaces. Whatever iron they contain is dissolved
+from the land and transported in a condition of protoxide and some proto
+salt, such as the carbonate, and the process is facilitated by the
+presence of carbonic acid <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span>in the water. Now iron occurs in these older
+rocks as protoxide and peroxide, the former of which is soluble and the
+latter insoluble in water. The peroxide, however, by the action of
+organic matter, such as is held in solution in boggy waters, may be
+deprived of a portion of its oxygen and converted into protoxide and
+thus be rendered soluble. If the iron-bearing water is confined first in
+a shallow basin and exposed long to the action of the atmosphere the
+protoxide of iron absorbs the oxygen and is precipitated as an insoluble
+red peroxide of iron. If, however, plant or animal life be present in
+sufficient quantities, this oxidation is prevented. In case but little
+foreign material, clay or sand, has been brought by the waters, the
+deposit will be an iron ore. In case large quantities of foreign
+material are deposited from the waters at the same time, there will be
+produced, in the absence of life, a brown or red clay or sandstone, and
+in its presence a white or light colored formation containing the iron
+as a carbonate. We reason therefore from the condition in which the iron
+is found in the red beds, that there could have been little or no life,
+animal or vegetable, in the water from which it was deposited. The
+conclusion is strengthened by the fact of the large quantities of gypsum
+which are usually derived from the evaporation of saline<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">117</a></span> waters. The
+degree of saline concentration which the precipitation of gypsum
+indicates, would be highly inimical to life. The presence of gypsum
+helps to account for the absence of life, and the absence of life
+accounts for the brilliant color. The three prominent characteristics of
+the formation (that is the red beds) are therefore quite in harmony with
+each other.'" (Geol. Blk. Hills, p. 138.)</p>
+
+<p>Continuing the subject, Professor Todd says: "Accepting this explanation
+of the striking red color, the question remains as to how these
+circumstances, favorable for its formation, were produced.</p>
+
+<p>"This red color is quite common in the whole Rocky Mountain region, not
+only on the eastern slope of the mountains, but to the various detached
+members of the system. We must, therefore, look for some extensive
+condition. If we seek some case in the present, parallel to the one
+already indicated, we perhaps can find none better than one on the
+eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, where, because of dry climate and the
+shallow waters, the deposition of gypsum and salt is now going on. In
+the gulf known as the Kara Boghaz, which is separated from the Caspian
+by a narrow strait, the evaporation is so rapid as to produce an almost
+constant flow from the sea into it. This strait and this gulf give the
+impression to an unlearned ob<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span>server that there must be a mysterious
+subterranean outlet. The water flows in, carrying with it the salt and
+other soluble minerals. It then evaporates, leaving the salt and
+minerals behind."</p>
+
+<p>This explanation is calculated to afford particular pleasure to the many
+visitors to the Garden of the Gods, in Colorado, who seldom receive
+satisfactory answers to their questions as to the reasons "why." In that
+much visited spot, however, the great mass of the deposit has been
+removed by erosion and the curiously shaped remnants are only such
+portions as were exceptionally hard and consequently withstood the
+action of the submerging waters.</p>
+
+<p>Having made a considerable stop on the way to Wind Cave, we will now
+hurry on, but with good horses and a fine day the drive is one of great
+pleasure. The road gradually rises to higher ground and soon reaches a
+point six hundred feet more elevated than Hot Springs, with a charming
+view of hill and valley distances, and the way then continues over the
+hill-tops. At one point by the roadside a circle of tent-stones still
+marks the spot occupied by Sitting Bull for a week or more after the
+Custer massacre, while he camped here and in the security of his
+commanding position watched the movements of the government troops who
+were in search of him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">119</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Hot Springs and Buffalo Gap are both included in the wide-spread view.
+Beside the road and scattered about in all directions are fine specimens
+of agates and quartz crystal which seem most beautiful and most abundant
+on the hills in the immediate vicinity of the cave, the crystals being
+either rose pink, pale green, yellow, white or colorless.</p>
+
+<p>Arriving at the cave, the entrance is not visible, but between the
+ravine in which it is located and the road, there is the cave office and
+small hotel, on the ravine side of which an outer stairway leads down to
+the cave entrance, over which has been built a log cabin.</p>
+
+<p>On account of the precautions taken for the protection of visitors,
+accidents are so rare that it might almost be said that none occur.
+Every person is required to register before entering the cave and all
+returning parties are carefully counted, although they are usually
+unaware of the fact. They are always accompanied by two guides and
+others are added if the party is large. No one is, on any account,
+permitted to wander in advance of the head guide or linger behind the
+one in the rear.</p>
+
+<p>Within the cabin the immediate entrance to the cave is securely closed,
+and in order that the door may not be forced from its fastenings by the
+roaring wind which shakes it threateningly, it opens in, instead of out.
+This wind<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">120</a></span> suggested the name Wind Cave, and will probably be utilized,
+at no very distant time, to generate electricity for lighting the
+cavern.</p>
+
+<p>The wind is strongest at the surface, and a guide goes down first to
+place lights in sheltered nooks where the force has begun to diminish,
+about fifty feet below the entrance; and here we light our candles
+which, if guarded somewhat, are not extinguished unless the current is
+unusually severe. The balance of the descent of one hundred and
+fifty-five feet from the surface to the first chamber is easily
+accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>This would be the least interesting room in the cave if it were not the
+Bride's Chamber, on account of having once been the scene of a marriage
+ceremony. But no others are in need of assistance of such romantic
+nature, as all are curiously and handsomely decorated, with such a
+charming variety of deposits, artistically massed, combined or
+contrasted, that every step brings fresh pleasure, and monotony is
+nowhere.</p>
+
+<p>Passing from this room by a long, narrow passage, in the walls of which
+are observed many beautiful little pockets of crystals, attention is
+presently called to Lincoln's Fireplace, a perfectly natural specimen of
+the old-fashioned design broadly open in the chimney; doubtless just
+such an one as Mr. Lincoln's good mother hung the crane in and set the
+Dutch oven<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">121</a></span> before. A little beyond and on the opposite side of the
+crevice is Prairie-dog town, not a very extensive town, to be sure, but
+so true a copy that one unfamiliar with the small animal and his style
+of architecture would afterwards easily recognize both. At one time his
+dogship was carried away by a too eager collector, but a letter to the
+suspected visitor brought him home by the next freight.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch Clock occupies a position on a shelf near by, and all southern
+visitors greet the Alligator as a familiar friend, as all of us joyfully
+meet any acquaintance from home.</p>
+
+<p>A long narrow passage, formerly a "tight crawl," but later opened up by
+heavy blasting, must be traversed before we come to the Snow Ball Room,
+beautiful with round spots of untinted carbonate of lime, as if fresh
+soft snow had been thrown by the handful over walls and ceilings, with
+the additional ornamentation of calcite crystals. In the crevice beyond
+rises the Church Steeple, diminishing regularly, though roughly, in
+size, to a height of sixty feet, but not degraded with the little
+squirming stairway usually seen in Church spires.</p>
+
+<p>The next room is the Post Office, in which we are for the first time
+introduced to the greatest peculiarity and most abundant formation known
+to the cave. Being a newly discovered addition to geology it has no
+scientific name and there<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">122</a></span>fore is simply called box work, because it
+resembles boxes of many shapes and sizes. The formation of the box work
+is generally regarded as an unexplained and unexplainable mystery, but a
+careful study of various portions of the cave shows it in all stages of
+development and suggests a reasonable theory as to the cause of its
+origin and variety of development. The volcanic disturbances which have
+already been discussed as having been responsible for the various
+uplifts and depressions of the Black Hills region, and also for opening
+the fissures which gave the cave a beginning, must have supplied the
+conditions that were necessary to the formation of box work. And these
+preliminary conditions were merely cracks in the rock. By the violence
+of earth movement the limestone has been crushed, probably when the land
+was undergoing depression, prior to the upheaval which opened the great
+parallel fissures. The varying hardness of the rock, as well as
+proximity to the surface, would readily account for the difference in
+size of the fractures, which is from one-half inch to twelve inches; the
+largest being the most distant from the surface. That this crushing was
+done before the salt waters retired from the region, which was towards
+the close of the Cretaceous Age, is sufficiently evident in the fact
+that portions of the Red Beds show similar fractures with the cracks
+filled with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> gypsum, and gypsum, as we have already seen, is a salt
+water deposit.</p>
+
+<p>After the crushing was done the cracks in the Carboniferous Limestone
+were filled with water heavily charged with calcium carbonate, taken in
+solution from the rock, first from pulverized particles, and afterwards
+by percolation and contact with exposed surfaces. This calcium carbonate
+was slowly deposited in crystalline form, so that in time the cracks
+were filled and the crushed rock firmly cemented with calcite seams. But
+in the meantime the removal of the calcium carbonate had started
+disintegration of the more exposed portions of the rock, which steadily
+continuing, finally reduced the porous body between the crystal seams to
+a soft clay which was gradually dissolved and carried out through small
+imperfections in the thin crystal sheets, leaving the empty box work as
+we find it. But where blasting has exposed fresh surfaces, much of the
+solid limestone carries the box-like sheets of crystal.</p>
+
+<p>The thinnest box work is seen in the upper levels, from which the waters
+retired soonest, and the heaviest and most beautiful is in the Blue
+Grotto, on the eighth level where the water remained longest and its
+diminished volume became most heavily charged. In many places, however,
+there is another heavy variety known as pop-corn box work, which seems
+to be an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> impure lime carbonate not so finely crystallized as the other,
+but at the time of my visit no explanation had been given of the manner
+of its deposit; and my own theory that it was not formed under water had
+nothing to sustain it until, a few weeks later, while visiting Crystal
+Cave, the work was found in active progress on surfaces occupying every
+position, and the agent was dripping water. In all cases the original
+box work has been in thin sheets of calcite, and the heavy varieties are
+due to later deposits of calcite and aragonite crystals or, pop corn.</p>
+
+<p>The colors are white, yellow, blue and chocolate brown; the last named
+predominating to a great extent in that portion of the cave most easily
+traveled by visitors, and forming the ceiling and a part of one wall in
+the Post Office, where, as has been said before, it first appears. The
+effect is not dreary as might be imagined, and parties are generally
+photographed here because one side of the room is white and greatly
+assists the flash. This is a smooth, perpendicular wall marking the line
+of the fissure and showing the strata of the rock in horizontal position
+whitened with a thin coating of carbonate of lime. All visitors are
+cordially invited to please themselves in leaving cards, letters or
+papers in this chamber, which is reserved for that purpose, and to
+refrain from leaving them in other por<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">125</a></span>tions of the cave or defacing the
+walls with names.</p>
+
+<p>Roe's Misery is a long, narrow passage into which, during the early
+times before its size had been increased by blasting, a large man named
+Roe crawled to his sorrow. Being larger than the hole he stuck fast, and
+neither his own efforts nor those of the guides could relieve the
+situation until a rope was sent for, and having been brought, was
+securely fastened to his feet, when a long pull and a strong one finally
+opened the passage. It is told that he claimed to have reviewed all the
+objectionable acts of his life, by which his friends understood that he
+occupied the motionless position not less than three weeks.</p>
+
+<p>Red Hall is very nearly described by its name and is quite a showy room,
+with the bright red walls contrasting sharply with their limited
+ornamentation of pure white carbonate of lime and pearly crystals of
+calcite.</p>
+
+<p>Off to one side of Red Hall is a beautiful little chamber called Old
+Maids' Grotto, probably on account of its trim appearance and ideal
+location. It is so entirely concealed from the view of those passing on
+the public highway, that its existence is not even suspected, until
+special attention is called to its cosiness, and then it is necessary to
+mount an accumulation of great water-rounded rocks in order to obtain
+con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">126</a></span>vincing evidence of its actual reality. It is a long, narrow room,
+shut in by a straight wall sufficiently high for rigid seclusion, or
+protection, without preventing a glimpse of passing events.</p>
+
+<p>A break in the description is made here for the purpose of inserting a
+description, written at the author's request, by Mr. E.&nbsp;L. McDonald. He
+was generally our special guide. He has chosen to describe the route
+taken by the majority of visitors and therefore the balance of my
+observations within those limits are omitted.</p>
+
+<p>All who are familiar with those passages and chambers will observe while
+reading the next chapter that no imaginary attractions are added to the
+existing facts, but many interesting minor points are missing.</p>
+
+<p>Only such changes are made as were agreed to as the condition on which
+he would attempt a piece of work so at variance with his usual
+occupations.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">4</span></a> U.&nbsp;S. Geological Survey. Geology of the Black Hills. Henry
+Newton, p. 138.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">127</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<h3>WIND CAVE CONTINUED.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">THE FAIR GROUNDS ROUTE.</p>
+
+<p>"At 9:30 in the morning the train bringing health-seekers and tourists
+arrives at Hot Springs, a beautiful little city nestled in the
+southernmost foot-hills of the world-reputed Black Hills of South
+Dakota. The choice of a hotel is soon made, and when located, the
+new-comers observe the other guests and acquaint themselves with the
+attractions of the resort. Probably during the day they are approached
+by the solicitor of the wonderful Wind Cave, who explains that the best
+way to reach the cave is by means of the coach and four seen at the
+hotel in the morning, and arrangements are made for the following day.
+The next morning, seated in the tally-ho coach with strangers who are
+soon acquaintances, you start on a beautiful twelve-mile drive to one of
+nature's most interesting sights.</p>
+
+<p>"Immediately after leaving town you begin to admire the scenery and
+enjoy the cool, refreshing breezes, wafted from the mountains to the
+north, down the slopes to the arid plains.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"After climbing a gently sloping 'hog-back' for about eight miles, you
+are at the top of the divide and one thousand feet higher than Hot
+Springs, which may be seen on the left. Looking ahead you can see Harney
+Peak, the highest mountain in the Black Hills district; and on the right
+you see Buffalo Gap, through which the creek runs that heads at
+Min-ne-pa-juta Springs. The Indians used to drive buffalo through this
+gap, hence its name. A small but thriving little town to the eastward
+takes its name from this Buffalo Gap. From here you begin to go down a
+gentle and winding incline to the cave, which is reached all too soon.</p>
+
+<p>"At the office you register and procure tickets, and then have from
+one-half to three-quarters of an hour in which to eat lunch or dine at
+the hotel. Then all congregate in the office, from whence the start is
+made, after every one has put on a cave cap, <i>not a suit, as such is
+entirely unnecessary</i>. The guide leads the way to the entrance of the
+cave which is separated from the office by some little distance, and is
+located in the bed of a long since dry run, which in former times has
+bared the carboniferous strata, and within this kind of rock the cave is
+found.</p>
+
+<p>"As the author has asked me for an article descriptive of the cave, I
+will only attempt to say something of our medium length route to the
+Fair Grounds, or in other words, the Fair<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> Grounds' Route. A collective
+description of the whole cave would take months&mdash;even years&mdash;to
+complete. Besides, the above route is the one most used by visitors at
+the present time.</p>
+
+<p>"On entering the Cave House (a log structure) you will in all
+probability ask from whence comes the murmur of a waterfall. The guide
+answers that it is the rushing current of air at the mouth of the cave,
+sometimes in and sometimes out. Prof. J.&nbsp;E. Todd, in bulletin No. 1, S.
+Dakota Geological Survey, p. 48, says: 'This phenomenon is found to
+correspond with the varying pressure of the barometer, and with its
+single opening and capacious chambers is easily accounted for.'</p>
+
+<p>"The rushing air is sometimes strong enough to require a man's weight to
+open the entrance door. Five days and nights is the longest time the
+wind has been known to move in one direction without ceasing. This is
+one of nature's greatest atmospherical phenomena.</p>
+
+<p>"Some one says, 'Tickets, please!' and into the hole we go, single file
+down a lighted passageway to where we can light our candles. After
+descending about one hundred and fifty-five feet we come into the Bridal
+Chamber (named by some of the earlier explorers before the present
+management took hold of the property), which is eight or ten feet in
+length by twenty feet in breadth. Passing along some distance, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span>
+Snow-ball Room is entered. It carries this name on account of little
+rosettes of carbonate of lime sticking to the irregular ceiling. This
+room is pretty narrow and some fifty feet in length.</p>
+
+<p>"The Post Office is next and soon reached. The ceiling is covered with
+the box work formation somewhat resembling Post Office boxes. You will
+no doubt wonder why it carries such a common name.</p>
+
+<p>"Just because after searching in what books on geology and other
+sciences we could get, we could not find it described nor any formation
+resembling it; hence its common name, as we have named the pop-corn
+work, frost work etc., from their appearance.</p>
+
+<p>"The dimensions of the Post Office are some eighty feet in length by
+twenty feet in width, with an average ceiling height of probably twelve
+feet. Red Hall is the room next in order, and has on either side a red
+bank of sandy, micaceous clay.</p>
+
+<p>"Just to the left is a very pretty little grotto of box work. This room
+is very odd in make-up. The floor is very rough and dips about fifteen
+feet in its length of sixty feet, and includes a short flight of stairs.
+The lowest end of the room is prettily decorated, and some pleasing
+blends of color attract the eye. To the left is the Old Maids' Grotto, a
+pretty little nook that would please any maid old or young.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">131</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"After passing through the White Room we turn to the left along the
+crevice, and after traveling some little distance reach The Grand Opera,
+a very narrow room but some forty feet in length. Chopin's Nocturne is a
+small grotto in the right hand wall named by the famous violinist,
+Edouard Remenji.</p>
+
+<p>"The Devil's Lookout is reached by a few steps. It is a crevice about
+ten feet wide at the base and sixty-five feet in height. This place is
+remarkable for its columns of rock just over head. The pathway leads to
+Milton's Study, some fifty feet distant. Turning into the crevice again,
+some twenty feet are traveled when attention is called to Seal Rocks.
+Sampson's Palace is the next room in order: here we see some stalagmitic
+water formation on the left wall and the ceiling is one of the most
+beautiful yet seen on the trip.</p>
+
+<p>"We pass along to Swiss Scenery, a very prettily decorated room fifty
+feet in length by fifteen in height. The box work is very pretty,
+shading from yellow to dark brown. The general appearance of the room
+would suggest its name, it being rougher than any other in the immediate
+vicinity. Passing under an arch we enter the Queen's Drawing-room. Here
+the box work has been developed beyond any on our pathway thus far. From
+the ceiling it hangs like draperies and on the left wall is about
+twenty-four inches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> in depth. On the whole this room is elegant enough
+for the most exacting queen. We step from this room into the M.&nbsp;E.
+Church. Rev. Mr. Hancher, President of the Black Hills Methodist
+College, was I believe the first to hold song and prayer service in this
+room; the pulpit is on the left as you pass through. The guides always
+ask if any wish to sing or worship, as any one has a perfect right in a
+dedicated Chapel.</p>
+
+<p>"The Giant's Causeway is only a few steps beyond. This bit of scenery
+has some resemblance to the famed basalt attraction on the coast of
+Ireland. We 'duck' our heads under the Arch of Politeness and rise to a
+standing position in Lena's Arbor, a very irregular shaped room admired
+by a great many of our visitors.</p>
+
+<p>"We enter Capitol Hall at the side, about midway between the ends. It is
+the largest room yet visited, being some two hundred feet from end to
+end, with a very high ceiling. Here we notice the walls and ceiling are
+bare of box work and other formation, and are clean and white. The
+decorative appearance exceeds any room yet visited. After getting into
+line again we go down a flight of stairs to Odd Fellows' Hall, a chamber
+that on examination suggests its name. In the ceiling is situated the
+'All seeing eye,' one of the emblems of that august body, and at a
+little distance the 'Three links;' also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> in the ceiling, and just under
+the latter is situated a rock very much resembling a goat. Attention is
+called to the first appearance of pop-corn work, a very peculiar
+formation resembling pop-corn after it has broken open, and in this part
+of the cave it is quite plentiful.</p>
+
+<p>"We now descend another flight of stairs into Turtle Pass, where a large
+turtle rests beside the path, and just beyond is the Confederate
+Cross-roads, where the fissure is crossed by another forming a cross
+with perfect right angles. The right hand passage is used for specimens
+only; straight ahead leads to the Garden of Eden, the end of our
+shortest route; we take the left hand path and journey through Summer
+Avenue, some seventy feet in length, and reach the Scenes of Wiclow, a
+large and high room, beautifully decorated with box work and pop-corn.
+The ceiling and the left wall from floor to ceiling are fine box work.
+On the right you see dark space, as a very large portion of this room is
+unused, but we pass the Piper's Pig. List! The guide is pounding on the
+Salvation Army Drum, a large projecting rock that on being struck with
+the closed hand gives a sound very much like a bass drum.</p>
+
+<p>"After walking across a short plank we enter Kimball's Music Hall, a
+very beautiful room settled between two crevices and lined with box
+work. Viewing the ceiling from the fissure on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">134</a></span> the right it is seen to
+be smooth and fringed with pop-corn. In some places the boxes are
+closed, resembling finished honey-comb. Over head box work can be seen
+as high as the light penetrates. On the whole, I think this is the
+finest crevice in the explored cave.</p>
+
+<p>"Looking straight ahead you wonder how the party can travel over such a
+road as presents itself to view, but the guide turns into an arch in the
+right hand wall and enters Whitney Avenue. After walking across the
+bridge over shadowy depths, our pathway lies for some fifty feet in one
+of the most interesting ovens in the cave, at the end of which we enter
+Monte Cristo's Palace by going down a flight of stairs. This room has
+the greatest depth beneath the surface of any of the Fair Grounds'
+Route, which is four hundred and fifty feet. In this room is noticed a
+decided change in the box work, which is much heavier than any seen, or
+that will be seen on this route, and the color is light blue.</p>
+
+<p>"I guess I will give the party a talk while we rest under Monte Cristo's
+Diamonds, a very sparkling cluster, about six inches in diameter, of
+silica crystals.</p>
+
+<p>"After studying the cave, it appears that it did not form in the same
+manner as most others; on account of the absence of sink holes, the
+regular arrangement of the chambers, the regular dip of the rock to the
+south-east from five to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span> ten degrees, and the regularity of the long
+vertical fissures running north-west south-east. In fact, the whole cave
+is made up of these fissures and it seems that the water has entered
+narrow crevices opened by some eruptive force.</p>
+
+<p>"You see small holes eaten in the ceilings and walls in every direction,
+which indicates that the water came from a higher level, and being under
+great pressure, wanted passage out. It seems the cave was a reservoir
+for a long time, then after the water stopped flowing in it slowly
+receded, and in settling the overcharged waters covered the rocks and
+specimens with a calcareous coating, very thin in the upper portions of
+the cave and getting thicker the deeper you go, giving evidence as you
+see, of slowly settling. Had the waters rushed out they would in all
+probability have left the rocks uncoated as in all other caves, with one
+exception, the Crystal Cave, some seventy-five miles to the north of
+Wind Cave.</p>
+
+<p>"As we have some more caves to see we must journey on.</p>
+
+<p>"Taking one last look at Monte Cristo's Diamonds we pass into Milliner's
+Avenue, a very pretty avenue indeed with nearly as many colors as a
+milliner's show-window would present. About mid-way of this avenue we
+cross the bridge over Castle Garden, a room in the eighth tier beneath
+the surface. From this avenue we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">136</a></span> step into the Assembly Room. Here the
+formations are covered with a gypsum crystal that sparkles with
+wonderful brilliancy. On the right is a passage leading to the Masonic
+Temple, a room that any body of Masons would be proud of could they hold
+lodge meetings in it. The passage on the left is the terminus of the
+Pearly Gates' Route, the longest developed route in the cave. After
+moving along some distance we see the Bad Lands, and then come into the
+Tennis Court. This room has the net in the ceiling and I suppose the
+party can furnish the raquet (racket). On the right hand side of this
+room there is tier upon tier of box work; looking to the left, you
+shudder at the almost bottomless pit just beside the pathway. Here we
+take a rest preparatory to climbing up to the Marble Quarry, a task of
+two flights of stairs. This is a very large room and has the most uneven
+floor, ceiling and walls of any that our visitors see, and is barren of
+specimens excepting in the first part over the stairs where there is
+some box work of very pretty structure and color. Some distance up the
+path we see on one side the Ghost of 'She,' and on the other the Devil's
+Punch Bowl, a large rock with a basin-shaped hole about thirty-six
+inches across and sixteen inches deep, but lo! the bottom has been
+broken out: which is very appropriate as South Dakota is at present a
+prohibition state. A winding path is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">137</a></span> followed until attention is called
+to the Sheep's Head above an arch over the passage, and the ceiling here
+is of flint, the ledge of which is four inches thick.</p>
+
+<p>"Passing under the arch we enter Johnstone's Camp Ground, so named
+because Paul Alexander Johnstone camped in this room while accomplishing
+the third of his greatest mind-reading feats, during which he remained
+in the cave seventy-two hours. He was locked in his room at the Evans
+Hotel while a committee secreted the head of a gold pin in the cave. On
+their return, after being blindfolded, he led them to the livery stable,
+and securing a team drove to the cave and found the pin in the Standing
+Rock Chamber, beyond the Pearly Gates, and then drove back to the city
+still blindfolded.</p>
+
+<p>"Down one short flight of stairs and we are in the Waiting Room, so
+called on account of persons waiting here while the rest of their party
+finished the trip by climbing up the Alpine Way. This difficult climb
+was made until the route was developed via the Marble Quarry. A steep
+pathway and one flight of stairs now bring us to the Ticket Office, and
+another short stairway leads into the room above, which is the Fair
+Grounds. We enter the right wing, which measures two hundred and six
+links in length and forty-nine in width at the narrowest place. We are
+now in the third level and no box work<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> is seen, but the ceiling (which
+is low) shows many interesting fossils. The central dome is some fifty
+feet in height, and passing to the right the guide seats the party in
+such a position that the frost work on the wall can be seen to
+advantage. This is the largest part of the Fair Grounds and measures six
+hundred and forty-five links long, exclusive of the right wing, and has
+a width of fifty-three links, which with a number of wings added, makes
+it one of the largest under-ground rooms within American caverns.</p>
+
+<p>"A great many visitors look at their cuff-buttons when told we have
+twenty-five hundred rooms included in ninety-seven miles of passageways.
+Of course they do not understand how we get the mileage. In going to the
+Fair Grounds we travel about three miles. In each fissure there are
+eight levels, which makes twenty-four miles of cave from the entrance to
+the Fair Grounds.</p>
+
+<p>"Of the formations in the cave, the different kinds are on different
+levels, the stalactites and stalagmites nearest the surface on the
+second, the frost work on the third. This formation is in most instances
+as colorless as snow. The mode of its formation is not thoroughly
+understood, but is found in such positions as suggest its being formed
+by vapors overcharged as spoken of about the water. It is almost always
+on an over-hanging rock, over or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span> near some fissure leading to a deeper
+portion of the cave. Box work in this level is scattering and fragile:
+in the fourth it is the prevailing formation: in the fifth it is heavier
+and a little darker; in the sixth it varies in style and color, and
+pop-corn appears, a queer formation resembling pop-corn ready to eat. It
+is not so purely white here as in the lower levels, seventh and eighth.
+In the seventh the box work is heavier than any seen on the Fair
+Grounds' Route and the color is nearly blue, having a faded appearance.
+In this tier is also found a good deal of mineral wool, which must not
+be mistaken for asbestos. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen
+inches and at one place where it seems to come out of a hole two inches
+in diameter, and drops down like a grey beard, we have named it Noah's
+Beard.</p>
+
+<p>"In the eighth tier we find very beautiful formations of carbonate of
+lime, and the box work is decidedly blue, the boxes larger, and their
+partitions one half inch thick.</p>
+
+<p>"We have been deeper than the eighth tier but in narrow crevices barely
+admitting a man of average stature. In these the calcareous coating is
+much thicker than in any higher portions of the cave, but very little
+sign of box work is seen.</p>
+
+<p>"Sometimes we make a comparison between the cave and a sponge. Take for
+instance a sponge<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> as large as an apple barrel and there would be holes
+in it as big as a man's thumb and closed hand. Now take a sponge, four
+miles square and five hundred feet deep with holes in proportion to the
+little sponge, and you have an illustration of The Wonderful Wind Cave,
+of Custer County, South Dakota."</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<h3>WIND CAVE CONTINUED.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">PEARLY GATES AND BLUE GROTTO ROUTE.</p>
+
+<p>A very much longer, more beautiful, and also more difficult journey than
+the one just described may be taken by those in whom the desire to see
+is greater than the fear of fatigue, or possibly, some little danger.
+With this object in view the Fair Grounds' Route is followed through
+Monte Cristo's Palace and into Milliner's Avenue. Here we leave it by
+dropping off the bridge into a rough hole, which proves to be a passage
+descending into Castle Garden directly beneath the Avenue, and a room of
+considerable size, plentifully supplied with bowlders. Although
+interesting to visit, it has no points of such special merit as would
+seem to require a detailed account, the main importance attaching to it
+being the fact that it is the first portion of the eighth level visited.
+A little beyond, however, is something quite new. The floor is covered
+with a light yellow crust of calcite crystal, sufficiently strong to
+bear the weight of a limited number of guests without much fracture. It
+generally gives a hollow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span> sound when struck, which is easily accounted
+for as there are small holes noticed by which steam evidently made its
+escape, and through these cavities can be seen but they are shallow. One
+place shows the crust broken up and with the edges of the pieces
+overlapped, like ice broken by a sudden rise of back-water, and in this
+position they have been firmly cemented.</p>
+
+<p>This is where the slowly receding waters of the cave lingered in shallow
+pools above the small crevices long after the main portions had become
+dry. That the crust was formed on top of the water, instead of beneath
+its surface, has been proved by the only body of water now standing in
+the cave. This is called Silent Lake, and being situated on another
+route will be described in its proper place, but when discovered no
+water was visible nor its presence even suspected until the crust gave
+way under the weight of an explorer. The thin sheet of yellow calcite
+crystal thus broken was the same as that seen in great abundance in the
+now perfectly dry eighth level. The gradually decreasing volume of water
+has left a smooth yellow coat on portions of the walls where
+irregularities or slopes were favorable, and at least one such place is
+vividly remembered if once seen. A steep incline of about fifteen feet
+leads to a small oval hole through the wall; towards this we crawled
+with no great ease; but getting to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">143</a></span> the hole was far easier than going
+through it into a tiny cubby not high enough to sit comfortably upright
+in, and too small to permit an average sized human being to turn around.
+Close on the left it is shut in by another wall pierced by two holes
+similar to that just passed, and each revealing a miniature chamber
+scarcely more than three feet in either direction and eighteen inches
+high. Being directed to examine the ceiling of the first, it was done
+with some difficulty and much satisfaction, for there in the center was
+a most exquisite bit of art work, a circular disk of "drusy" quartz
+about twelve inches in diameter and having the appearance of a flat
+rosette of fine black lace, in open pattern with small diamonds thickly
+strung on every thread; a brilliant, sparkling mass of gems. After Mr.
+McDonald had carefully removed a geode from the other little chamber, he
+slid down into a fourth, the last of the diminutive suite, having
+sufficient height to allow a sitting posture with raised head, and
+opened the small jewel case, while I examined the place it came from.
+Here all was calcite crystal heavily massed in various forms, and a
+harmony of blue and brown, with half a dozen round, unbroken, perfect
+geodes hanging from the ceiling like oriole nests. The geode taken
+proved on opening to be especially fine, being filled with pearly white
+calcite crystals of both the dog-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">144</a></span>tooth and nail-head forms, and was
+kindly presented to be added to the collection of cave specimens already
+purchased in town, to which were also added handsome pieces of "drusy"
+quartz, cave coral, and tufa and mineral wool.</p>
+
+<p>Following the guide I now slipped down into the larger nook just
+vacated, and saw with considerable chagrin that the next step was down a
+perpendicular wall more than ten feet in height, facing a high, narrow
+fissure, the floor of which was merely two shelves sloping to an open
+space along the middle, almost two feet wide, with the darkness of
+continuing crevice below. Further progress seemed absolutely impossible.
+All things are, however, possible to those who will, and it had been
+willed to pay a visit to the grandest portion of Wind Cave. In order to
+do so the descent must be made and was. Then some little distance must
+be traveled along the crevice, but the angle of elevation taken by both
+sides of the bisected floor served as a sort of prohibitory tax together
+with the calcite paving, since to maintain an upright position on such a
+surface would require long training of a certain professional character.
+That difficulty, too, was overcome by placing a foot on either side of
+the open crevice; the first consideration, of course, being safety and
+not grace.</p>
+
+<p>We now came to the enjoyment of the reward of merit. Flooded with the
+brilliant white<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> light of magnesium ribbon, the crevice walls could be
+seen drawing together at a height of sixty-five feet, and both composed
+entirely of larger box work than any seen before and very heavily
+covered with calcite crystal, colored a bright electric blue and glowing
+with a pearly lustre. This is the Centennial Gallery, and leaving it
+with reluctance we passed on into the Blue Grotto to find it finer
+still. It is somewhat wider and higher, while even the extremely rough,
+uneven floor shows no spot bare of heavy box work of a yet deeper blue.</p>
+
+<p>The wonderful beauty of this Blue Grotto necessarily stands beyond
+comparison because in all the known world there is nothing like it. The
+forms of crystal are chiefly aragonite.</p>
+
+<p>From here we pass to the "Chamber de Norcutt," which would be considered
+a very handsome room if it had no superiors: and the same can be said of
+Union College, in which, however, is the Fan Rock to claim special
+notice; an immense piece of fallen box work shaped like a lady's fan
+half opened.</p>
+
+<p>An imposing vestibule leads into the extensive but rather dreary
+Catacombs, from which we crawled through a little hole into the M.&nbsp;W.&nbsp;A.
+Hall, emerging at the top of a steep but not high slope covered with the
+smooth yellow crust of calcite encountered at other places, and in
+trying to make a dexterous turn so as to go down<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> feet first, the
+descent was accomplished with uncalculated suddenness and an unsought
+but liberal collection of bruises. This, however, was not a happening of
+the unexpected and could have no attention amid scenes of wonder and
+beauty, and we were close to the Geysers. From a scientific point of
+view this is the most important portion of the cave, for here is an
+indisputable proof that the water in the cave was hot and that it was
+subject to geyser action. The surrounding region is covered with the
+crust already described, and at the top of a gentle elevation is thrown
+up in the unmistakable form of geyser cones; there being two near
+together on the surface described, with a third visible through one of
+these on a slightly lower level, this one being a new discovery, as it
+had escaped observation until we called attention to it.</p>
+
+<p>These small cones show that after the degree of heat and the volume of
+water had become reduced to the merest fraction of their former
+greatness, they continued their accustomed work here in the depth of the
+earth long after the once grand old geyser had ceased to show an outward
+sign of life. When the water finally became so reduced even here that
+the steam could no longer force it through, or to these latest vents,
+the last rising vapors fringed their edges with a beautiful snow-white
+border of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">147</a></span> crystallized carbonate of lime as fine and soft as a band of
+swan's down, which it resembles. In the pure, still atmosphere of the
+eighth level, almost five hundred feet beneath the entrance, this silent
+proof of ancient action will endure for the admiration and instruction
+of many generations yet to come. Few mortals will ever be honored with
+memorials so lasting or so convincing of vanished power.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding on the journey the next chamber is the A.&nbsp;O.&nbsp;U.&nbsp;W. Hall, a
+large, irregular room, by the rise of which a return to the seventh
+level is accomplished; and the next entered is the Tabernacle, not at
+all resembling the last, although a similar description would be
+correct.</p>
+
+<p>Now is reached what many consider the cave's greatest charm, The Pearly
+Gates. And marvelously beautiful it certainly is.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching by a slightly lower level, we see a gateway opening between
+large rocks that light up with the soft lustre and varied tints of
+mammoth pearls. A wonderful effect is produced by the white calcite
+crystal spread in unequal thickness over the dark surface of the
+encrusted rocks. Just without the gate is a short but not golden
+stairway leading to it, and immediately within is the Saint's Rest, a
+chamber of moderate size beautified by another great rock on which are
+combined the warm, pearly glow of calcite and the cold glitter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> frost
+by the later addition of lime carbonate vapor-crystals to the calcium
+carbonate aragonite.</p>
+
+<p>Next beyond is the chamber containing the Standing Rock behind which Mr.
+Johnstone made his famous discovery of the concealed pin-head. It is an
+immense great fallen rock on whose dark surface are scattered
+transparent flake-like crystals of satin spar, resembling the congealed
+drops of a summer shower. The mind-reader entered the chamber by the way
+we shall leave it.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the spot from which the Pearly Gates were first viewed, we
+stand facing the most beautiful of this imposing group of brilliant
+scenes, The Mermaid's Resort. This is a small cove with wave marks in
+the white beach sand, above which rises a projecting, sheltering cliff
+as purely white as freshly fallen snow, with a fine deposit of frost
+work in thick moss-like patterns two and three inches deep.</p>
+
+<p>This crystalline mass, so white and fragile, has to perfection the
+appearance of hoar-frost about a steam-vent in extremely cold weather,
+and was, no doubt, formed in a somewhat similar manner. It is
+crystallized carbonate of lime, and could have been deposited in such
+extremely delicate forms only by the heavily charged vapors rising from
+hot water. No one needs to be told that hot water will take and hold in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">149</a></span>
+solution a much larger quantity of solid matter than is possible to cold
+water, with all other conditions the same; nor is it news that a portion
+of the solid substance is carried off in the rising steam. Now the
+geyser cones, so recently visited on the next lower level, prove both
+the heat of the water and its heavy charge of solids, which gave it a
+far more intense heat than pure water could have equaled, and this in
+turn drove the steam to greater distances than otherwise it would have
+reached. When cooled to such a point as to be reduced to a light vapor,
+its movement was checked by various walls, projections, and ceiling as
+were in its upward path, and these received the minute particles of
+burden, while the somewhat brisk motion of the atmosphere, occasioned at
+these points by the mixing of that of higher temperature from below with
+the lower from above, is responsible for the dainty and varied forms
+assumed by the fragile structure.</p>
+
+<p>Once more resuming the journey, we admire the rugged charms of
+University Heights, a somewhat larger and higher room than the next, St.
+Dominic's Chamber, but perhaps not more interesting than the Council
+Chamber, which besides other attractions is to some extent also a
+Statuary Hall. From the Council Chamber the Alpine Way leads up into the
+Fair Grounds directly above. This Alpine Way is a sort of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">150</a></span> cork-screw
+twisting through the rocks, not unlike a badly walled well, assisted at
+the lowest portion by a short and nearly perpendicular ladder. Next is
+the Assembly Room, or Crown Chamber, as it is also called on account of
+a handsome crown conspicuously placed. This room also contains a Moose
+so perfectly carved that the skeptic who searches diligently for
+imperfections finally clamors for the whole company to celebrate his
+discovery of the artist's noble skill.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this room we re-enter Milliner's Avenue and soon cross the
+bridge from which, a few hours ago, we descended into the eighth level
+by way of Castle Garden; and now the return to the surface is by the
+route followed before, and we arrive there at last terribly weary, but
+more than well pleased.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">151</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<h3>WIND CAVE CONCLUDED.</h3>
+
+
+<p class="center">GARDEN OF EDEN, THE GLACIER, AND ICE PALACE.</p>
+
+<p>There is yet another long and charming line of travel open to those who
+have sufficiently steady heads and light feet to suffer no loss of
+confidence or depression of spirit when mounting the steep stairway
+whose limit seems lost in the dark distance above.</p>
+
+<p>There being but the single entrance, a repetition of the worn and
+ancient statement that all roads lead to Rome, means that many journeys
+may be taken in Wind Cave, but all must have the same beginning.</p>
+
+<p>In the tourist season the guides have not time during the day to bring
+out specimens to supply the demand, so on this account night trips are
+of frequent occurrence; and on these occasions the number of persons in
+all that vast space seldom exceeds half a dozen, but their voices and
+laughter, and the blows of their hammers, can be heard at greater
+distances than would seem possible, and give an agreeable sense of
+companionship; yet the voice does not travel by any means so far as in
+other caves.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The evening we were to make the long trip just mentioned, our guide
+being ready before any others had gone in, we started the advance on the
+ninety-seven miles of enclosed, unoccupied space and had almost reached
+the level of the Bridal Chamber when he remembered a forgotten and
+necessary roll of magnesium ribbon, for which it was needful to return
+to the office in the upper building. I sat down on the lowest step of
+the great stairway to wait, and for a very short time was entirely alone
+in the largest cavern in the world, excepting the Mammoth Cave of
+Kentucky.</p>
+
+<p>The unexpected experience seemed suddenly to become one of the great
+events of a lifetime, and was unmarred by the disturbing apprehensions
+of any possible danger. The entire absence of sound was indescribably
+awe-inspiring as</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Strata overleaping strata from the center to the crust,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rose, Alp-high, in molten silence, as the dead rise from the dust;"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>but the feeling of complete isolation from the living world would not
+require an unlimited time to merit the one word&mdash;horrible. Even some
+peril with ample companionship would be more agreeable, while it is a
+curious fact that the combination of companionship with silence is
+charming. On the occasion of one visit to the cave it was painful to
+observe the actual<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">153</a></span> suffering of a lover of quiet, from the
+good-natured, but heedless, chatter of two of the party.</p>
+
+<p>Presently steps on the stairs broke the stillness, a glimmer of light
+pierced the intense darkness that surrounded the circle of one candle,
+and the upper world seemed not so far away.</p>
+
+<p>The interrupted journey was resumed, the route being that already
+described as far as the Confederate Cross Roads, where, this time, we go
+straight on in the main fissure instead of turning into the
+cross-crevice, as was done before.</p>
+
+<p>We were overtaken by the specimen party and recognized the three
+laughing young girls only by their voices, as in full suits of overalls
+and white duck caps, they looked like boys. Those who reside near the
+large caves have overcome their objection to this costume, as it gives
+much greater freedom and ease of movement, besides being a decided
+economy. Feminine garments are so easily destroyed, but for artistic
+effect the substitute cannot conscientiously be recommended.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Cross Roads the first chamber is Breckinridge Gallery, a
+long, rambling hall in which are combined the attractions already passed
+and those yet to come, but having no striking feature predominating to
+give special character other than the grandeur of extreme<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">154</a></span> roughness,
+which is also the quality most observed on passing into the Stone
+Quarry, where great accumulations of blocks seem waiting preparation for
+shipment.</p>
+
+<p>The next "open country" is protected from public trespass by the Garden
+Wall, which appears to have been well built in the long ago by masons
+properly trained in their craft, and extends, at a uniform height, to
+the Fallen Flats, where the floor is covered with slabs of enormous size
+that have fallen from the ceiling since water occupation ceased, as is
+clearly shown by the sharp edges and surfaces entirely unworn.</p>
+
+<p>The journey now becomes more interesting as the Cliff-Climbers' Delight
+is reached, and we go steadily up the long nights of stairs until
+visions of St. Peter begin to rise and we wonder which way the key will
+turn. Near the top is a handsome growth of snow-white mold hanging in
+long draperies behind the ladder or spread like on asparagus fern
+flattened against the rock.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at the top limits of the stairs the ascent is by no means
+finished, but continues through three large chambers known as Five
+Points, the Omaha Bee Office&mdash;named by one of the staff of that well
+known journal&mdash;and the W.&nbsp;C.&nbsp;T.&nbsp;U. Hall, dedicated to the service of the
+organization by one of its workers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/illo15.jpg" width="450" height="520" alt="Top of Glacier." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Top of Glacier. <a href="#Page_155">Page 155.</a></span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At last the upward journey is ended at the Silent Lake in the first, or
+highest, level. This, as has already been observed, is the only body of
+water now standing in the cave, and is not more than ten feet long by
+six in width and twelve inches deep. The scanty volume is maintained by
+the very limited inflow of acidulated percolating water which reaches
+the small receiving basin charged with calcium carbonate; and being
+cold, the charge is being precipitated on the bottom instead of forming
+a crust over the surface as in former times when the controlling
+influence was a degree of heat sufficient to sustain solid matter
+without disturbing motion.</p>
+
+<p>Rising above the Silent Lake is the Glacier, its moist surface
+suggesting that the lake is fed by a slight thaw, while the
+perpendicular front at the water's edge gives the impression of a berg
+having recently broken off and floated away.</p>
+
+<p>The Glacier flows between two high walls of dark rock, and the steep
+incline of perhaps seventy feet, covered with a smooth deposit of
+calcite and shining with moisture, has the appearance of ice and is as
+uninviting for a climb. The top is connected with the roof above by a
+group of short, and for this region, heavy columns of dripstone, the
+oldest formation of that character in the cave.</p>
+
+<p>An occasional overflow of the lake passes out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">156</a></span> to one side, then turns
+and goes under the Glacier where its first few feet of descent are
+called the Pearl Beds, where a variety of water-polished pebbles are
+being coated over and cemented together with calcite crystal.</p>
+
+<p>From the Glacier down to the lowest level of the cave by another route
+than that taken for the ascent, there is abundant evidence that at one
+time this portion of the cave was subject to excessively violent
+activity, and if studied with a view to the penetration of the principle
+of geyser action, offers many interesting and valuable suggestions that
+can be added to and expanded into definite theories in connection with
+the balance of the cave; all important requirements are clearly shown.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance from the Glacier is a small circular dome, called
+the Picture Gallery, which evidently was shaped by water forced up from
+below. The descent from here takes us into the St. Louis Tunnel, a long
+rough passage leading down into the great Cathedral, by the still
+descending irregularities of which we finally reach the Garden of Eden,
+the objective point of a favorite tourist route, but usually approached
+from the opposite direction. It is a large chamber of very irregular
+shape, with an extremely uneven ceiling, dipping nearly to the floor and
+rising suddenly to distant heights, while every portion of all the
+varied surfaces<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">157</a></span> glitters with a mass of frost work in every form it is
+known to have assumed; the banks of orange buds in different stages of
+expansion being exceptionally handsome. A portion of this wonderful room
+especially admired is Cupid's Alcove, where the frost is tinged with a
+pinkish flush from the brilliant paint clay captured in minute particles
+by the vapors. The whole room is a marvel of loveliness, but
+unfortunately visitors have wrought such noticeable damage that wire
+screening must be placed before the general admittance of large parties
+can be resumed.</p>
+
+<p>Passing out and down to a lower level, by way of Jacob's Well, we find
+the source of that magnificent abundance of frost work to be in the
+Chamber of Forbidden Fruit, where a yellow calcite floor-crust indicates
+the surface level of water diminishing in volume by evaporation long
+after the upward flow had forever ceased, and from which the rising
+vapor ascended to decorate the Garden of Eden, just described. But since
+this water completely disappeared, leaving in evidence only the
+record-bearing crust, a percolating drip has prepared indisputable proof
+of the remote distance of that time by depositing on the crust great
+clusters of luscious fruits, chiefly cherries, which appear to have been
+carelessly tossed down in heaps, but are firmly fixed in place.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">158</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The onward journey continues up and down through Beacon Heights, a large
+chamber which imitates Rocky Mountain scenery and terminates at the
+Corkscrew Path which, as the name indicates, is a spiral path winding
+down like a great stairway against the wall of an approximately circular
+chamber which is perhaps the highest in the cave, and shows the most
+violent water-action. The plunging torrent rushed on from here to tear
+out the heavy rock and form the next chamber, known as Dante's Inferno,
+whence, its force being divided, it went more gently in various
+directions. And by one of these passages we now re-enter the main route
+of travel once more, and finally return to the face of the earth,
+wondering if it will be possible to so describe those wonderful scenes
+as to represent with even a limited degree of fairness or justice the
+awe-inspiring grandeur of the entire trip, or the perfection of fragile
+loveliness formed and preserved as by special miracles in the Garden of
+Eden.</p>
+
+<p>One peculiarity of this great journey was that the box work, so abundant
+in other portions of the cave, was here conspicuously absent.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">THE CRYSTAL PALACE.</p>
+
+<p>Another route in Wind Cave is that to the Crystal Palace which, although
+the shortest, is the one most seldom taken by visitors, because of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">159</a></span>
+certain amount of difficulty and discomfort being unavoidable. Only a
+portion of the great stairway below the entrance is descended, when we
+abandon it and climb into a hole in the side-wall of the narrow passage,
+from which point to the end of the trip our feet prove to be merely
+encumbrances.</p>
+
+<p>The space crawled into and through widens sufficiently in several places
+to form chambers of good size, but the height of the ceiling is nowhere
+more than three feet and most of it only two or even less. The rough
+rock floor is partly carpeted with patches of loose moist clay, which is
+the means of our becoming as grimy as tramps, and its source is readily
+accounted for by an examination of the ceiling. This is easily made
+while resting one skinned elbow at the expense of the other. The word
+"abraded" is inadequate where anything approaching real cave study is
+attempted.</p>
+
+<p>The box work of the ceiling has almost entirely lost its
+crystallization, and is as ready to crumble as the enclosed clay, which
+is still retained because it had not yet reached the necessary point of
+deterioration to be carried out before the great volume of water,
+required for that service, retired from this high level of the cave.</p>
+
+<p>When finally reached, the Crystal Palace proved worthy of the effort,
+its decoration being<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">160</a></span> entirely of dripstone and very beautiful, although
+on too small a scale to be compared with similar work in many caves: it
+is merely an attractive "extra" in Wind Cave, and not one of the
+important attractions that give the Cave the rank that may have a few
+equals but no superiors.</p>
+
+<p>The first room is scarcely more than twelve feet in either direction and
+not quite six feet high. The glassy ceiling is thickly studded with
+small stalactites from two to eighteen inches in length, and mostly of
+the hollow "pipe stem" variety, from which the surplus drip rests in
+white masses on the clean floor around a central bowl of good clear
+water.</p>
+
+<p>Down the middle of the wall directly opposite the entrance a rushing
+little white cascade has congealed, and on either side just under the
+ceiling is a hollowed-out nook closely set with short stalactites and
+small columns, all pure white.</p>
+
+<p>Near by but not connected is another room too well filled to permit an
+entrance, but a portion of the wall having been carried out a
+satisfactory view is not denied. Here the floor rises to within three
+feet of the ceiling, and the deposit is much heavier, so that many fine
+columns rise from bases that spread and meet or overlap. If the cave had
+no greater claim to notice than these small drip rooms, it would still
+be worthy of a visit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">161</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The effort to secure flash-light pictures could only be considered
+successful because there are none better to be had.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere of Wind Cave is marvelously fresh and pure, and possesses
+in a high degree the invigorating quality which in most caves renders
+unusual exertion not only possible, but agreeable as well. In all the
+chambers and passages there is little change in the quality of the air,
+and thorough tests with a standard thermometer showed the variations on
+the different levels, from the highest to the lowest, to be about 2&deg;;
+but on different days the range was from 45&deg; to 52&deg;. This curious state
+of affairs some one else will have to explain.</p>
+
+<p>The only forms of life ever found in Wind Cave are a small fly and the
+mountain rat.</p>
+
+<p>While visiting the cave, every one connected with it was most kind and
+obliging, especially in showing those beautiful and difficult portions
+that few visitors are so fortunate as to see. While this is very far
+from being a complete description even of the parts visited, it will
+serve to show what a truly grand cavern is located at the south end of
+the Black Hills.</p>
+
+<p>The elevation at Hot Springs is three thousand, four hundred feet, and
+that of the entrance to the cave is four thousand and forty feet. A
+source of disappointment in connection with Wind Cave is that its fine
+scenery cannot be effectively pictured.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">162</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<h3>THE ONYX CAVES.</h3>
+
+
+<p>Northwest of Hot Springs there is a group of three onyx caves, the
+distance to them being estimated at from seven to ten miles, if the
+party does not get lost, which is the usual fate of those who dispense
+with the service of a driver familiar with the country. In going, the
+longer way, over the hill-tops, claims a preference on account of
+distant views with a favorable light. When the Onyx Cave Ranch is
+reached its scenery is found to be charming, with an ideal log house
+overlooking the ca&ntilde;on, and itself overlooked by the rising slope of the
+wooded hill. The entrance to the cave is in the opposite wall of the
+ca&ntilde;on, and is covered by a small cabin, at the door of which the view
+demands a pause for admiration; then the party disappears down a narrow,
+rough, sloping passage of sufficient height for comfort to none but know
+the value of comparative degrees. It soon appeared, however, that
+personal comfort would travel only a short distance. The mud increased
+with every step, and in its midst was a small hole through which it was
+necessary to pass to the next lower level. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> hole being so small and
+its walls slanting, the only way to accomplish the first half of the
+descent was to sit down in the mud and slide, stopping half way to
+examine a fine ledge of beautiful striped onyx, white and a brownish
+pink, the first outcrop in the cave, but in the next level it is seen in
+rich abundance and variety; the colors being red, black and white, brown
+in several shades and pure white. All are handsome and of commercial
+quality and hardness; and just above them is a ledge of fine blue
+marble.</p>
+
+<p>The next chamber is called the Bad Lands, on account of a certain
+resemblance to that desolate region. The way into it is through the
+Devil's Corkscrew, a most uninviting passage because it stands on end
+and is about twelve feet deep with circular, perpendicular walls
+discouragingly free of prominent irregularities; but careful study
+reveals a few available crags and rough edges, by which the descent is
+made. Fortunately the party decreased in size just within the entrance.
+Climbing up into a hole in the wall of this room, with no little
+difficulty, the Aerial Lake is the reward of a breathless upward
+struggle, and a satisfying one. The Lake is very small, but under its
+clear surface can be seen numerous growing deposits of calcite, while
+the roof of onyx gleams with a mass of small white stalactites.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">164</a></span></p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Returning again to the main route and traveling to the end of a short
+passage we beheld the entrance to Red Hall, a piece of rope ladder
+dangling half way down a perpendicular wall, the other half having no
+help whatever. The way was clear so far as the length of the ladder, and
+with trust in the future soon learned in cave work that distance was at
+once passed, and sitting on the very narrow ledge to cogitate on the
+possibility of further progress, Mr. Sidey solved the problem by
+suggesting, rather doubtfully, that the easiest way would be to drop off
+and allow him to interrupt the fall. This method had twice proved the
+only means of advance in Wind Cave and can be termed rapid transit. The
+walls of Red Hall are of stratified limestone variegated with patches of
+red rock, and clay of the same gay hue. It is the highest chamber in the
+cave and probably the largest. A hole in the wall at the floor level,
+near the entrance to the passage beyond, gives a glimpse of the cave
+river flowing on a slightly lower level, not over two feet below the
+floor we stand on. The water is said to have a depth of fifteen feet,
+and a rock thrown in gave back the sound of a splash into water not
+shallow. Entering the passage already referred to, its dimensions
+decreased to a crawl and then to a squeeze, so that most of its length
+was taken in a very humble position, which permitted no regard to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">165</a></span> be
+paid to the ample mud or little pools of water that must be serenely
+dragged through as if carrying them away were an agreeable privilege.
+Even a muddy passage ends in time, and at last we gained a standing
+point and after a short climb were in Fairies' Palace, a marvel of
+dainty beauty, and worthy of the distasteful trip just taken. We stood
+in a narrow passage that divided the small chamber like the central
+aisle of a cathedral, above which the white roof formed a Gothic arch
+from which depended countless little stalactites and draperies, while on
+either side, six feet above the passage, was a floor of onyx supporting
+exquisite columns of which the highest are not more than three feet.
+Only a short distance from the Fairies' Palace is the almost equally
+beautiful Ethereal Hall, and connecting the two I had the pleasure to
+discover a small arched passage more beautiful than either.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo16.jpg" width="450" height="492" alt="Fairies&#39; Palace." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Fairies&#39; Palace. <a href="#Page_165">Page 165.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although much of the cave was still not visited, the long drive to town
+demanded a return to the surface, but several stops were made on the way
+to admire masses of onyx and groups of curious forms in deposits of that
+fine stone. One high, crooked chimney above the Corkscrew is especially
+fine and correspondingly difficult for a grown person weighted down with
+garments dripping mud and water; but Kimball Stone, our boy friend,
+scampered up like a squirrel.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Two of the Onyx Caves had not been seen at all and Mr. Sidey expressed
+special regret on account of the latest discovery as no woman had ever
+yet entered it; but the sun was low in the west and the road had some
+dangerous points that must be passed before dark, so the reeking skirt
+was removed and without waiting to dry by the great fire kindled for the
+purpose we hurried off, promising to return if possible, and carrying
+treasures in specimens, besides an ancient lemon, which may not be
+called a fossil, since soft substances are said not to fossilize; but
+however that may be, this is a perfect lemon whose particles have been
+replaced with the lasting rock in the same way as the numerous Cycad
+trunks in the same region have been preserved to prove to us
+conclusively that formerly the region flourished under tropical
+conditions, and supported an abundant animal life of tropical nature and
+habits.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after leaving the ranch, we descended by a sort of goat-trail-road
+into a grandly beautiful ca&ntilde;on, along the bed of which the road
+continues until it flows out as the water did in ages gone. By this time
+it had become quite dark, and the chill of the northwest night formed a
+combination with saturated clothing that cannot be highly recommended as
+a pleasure; but the natural chivalry which prompted our young escort to
+insist on lending his own coat, and his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> evident disappointment that the
+sacrifice was not allowed, afforded a pleasure that will continue.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">THE WHITE ONYX CAVE.</p>
+
+<p>A few days later it was convenient to return to the Onyx Cave ranch with
+the special object of entering the newest cave, which could be done with
+the assistance of seventy feet of rope. While necessary preparations
+were pending, a walk up the ca&ntilde;on was proposed. At a distance of perhaps
+a quarter of a mile above Onyx Cave evidence was seen of a very
+remarkable form of ancient life. It is not the usual few bones but is a
+cast in the rock of the ca&ntilde;on bed of an animal clothed in its flesh. The
+appearance of the head, neck, body and wings is preserved, but the tail
+and four limbs have been carried away by eroding waters which even now
+have not quite forsaken the ca&ntilde;on. The containing stratum is not seen in
+the ca&ntilde;on wall, and near the lower end of the ca&ntilde;on a fine white
+sandstone crops out beneath. We ask: "Was the ca&ntilde;on cut to its full
+depth while yet a Cretaceous sea was depositing beach-sand, and did the
+earliest horse, with wings, appear at the close of that period? Or, did
+an animal with fore limbs developed, retain its wings into Miocene time
+and leave record of its life in an arm of the Tertiary lake?" The body
+is that of a horse with wings attached to the shoulders. The head is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span>
+unlike that of a modern horse, being much shorter and more rounded, but
+the parted lips give a glimpse of the teeth of a young horse. If only
+the feet could be found, I feel assured they would prove that the
+three-toed horse of ancient time, so abundantly in evidence throughout
+this region, was possessed of wings and in some way furnished the idea
+of Pegasus.</p>
+
+<p>A few feet further down the ca&ntilde;on are a pair of twisted wings that show
+the animal to have perished in company with its mate, while trying to
+escape from a sudden flood that rushed down the ca&ntilde;on like a moving
+wall.</p>
+
+<p>After some uneasy discussion about the means of entering the new cave,
+it was finally decided that the available rope was too short and not of
+sufficient strength. This was, of course, a disappointment but not a
+surprise, as a very peculiar quality in the rope used to enter caves of
+this kind had come to notice before. The peculiarity is, that a rope
+entirely above suspicion for the safety of a two hundred pound man, at
+once weakens and must be condemned when threatened with one hundred
+pounds of woman's weight, yet there is an implied compliment hidden
+somewhere about this protective system that tends to reduce the sting of
+disappointment.</p>
+
+<p>So it was agreed to spend the afternoon in the White Onyx Cave, which is
+generally spoken of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">169</a></span> simply as the Upper Cave because it occupies a
+higher level than the Onyx Cave already described, and is supposed to be
+an extension of the same although no connecting passage has been
+discovered.</p>
+
+<p>The accompanying friend had not been costumed for caving, but was
+persuaded to accept a full suit of overalls, which needed the addition
+of a pick and pipe to make the picture perfect. Unfortunately a snap
+shot failed.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance is in a perpendicular portion of the ca&ntilde;on wall, but a
+narrow path that starts some distance away and appears in eminent danger
+of falling off, makes most of the ascent comparatively easy; and the
+balance is completed by a short ladder whose rounds dip toward the ca&ntilde;on
+bed in a rather alarming manner, but this only proves the folly of
+giving too much heed to appearances, for it is strong and firmly
+fastened to the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>Just within the entrance there is height sufficient for standing, but
+the roof descends suddenly and the walls come near together, reducing
+the passage to a crawl, and showing that in past times water poured in
+at this opening and not out as might be supposed. The first chamber
+entered is the Crystal Gallery, but it is so nearly filled with great
+masses of pure white onyx no standing room remains. Drops of water on
+portions of the onyx ceiling here are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span> the only moisture remaining in
+this cave. When Mac's<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">5</a> head came in contact with the roof he called to
+the guide: "See here, little boy, you ought to sing out 'low bridge' at
+that sort o' places, 'cause when I'm busy hunting a spot to set my foot
+in, I can't see what my head's coming to, and I like to mined a lot o'
+this rock with it."</p>
+
+<p>Slowly, and with no danger and less comfort, we creep over, under and
+between great massive beds of the fine white crystalline rock until at
+length we enter the Ghost Chamber where no onyx has been deposited, but
+where numerous mountain rats have evidently been at home for many years,
+if we may judge from the enormous quantity of pine needles with which
+they have carpeted the floor. The walls show small box work crumbling to
+dust, and Ray climbed high into the chimney-like opening above our
+heads, but reported that it ended suddenly and had no attractions to
+offer.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Coming out, the way was somewhat varied, but more difficult, as the
+passages through the onyx beds were more irregular and more nearly
+closed; Onyx Hall being only a fair specimen of the marvelous results
+achieved here by the persistent regularity of an uninterrupted but slow
+drip, continued through hundreds of years.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo17.jpg" width="450" height="467" alt="White Onyx Masses." title="" />
+<span class="caption">White Onyx Masses. <a href="#Page_170">Page 170.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo18.jpg" width="450" height="461" alt="Looking out of White Onyx Cave." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Looking out of White Onyx Cave. <a href="#Page_171">Page 171.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is surprising that in all these heavy beds <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span>there is no line or
+tint, or slightest trace of color anywhere, while the other Onyx Cave,
+so near as to suggest connection, has a gorgeous variety of rich
+coloring.</p>
+
+<p>The view looking out from the entrance of White Onyx Cave is wonderfully
+fine, and equally so whether the rain falls or the sun shines, a timely
+shower giving us an opportunity to enjoy both.</p>
+
+<p>Before leaving the ranch, a promise was made by Mr. Sidey to write a
+short description of the other cave, which he kindly did, and it is here
+given. He says:</p>
+
+<p>"In trailing a deer I came across a hole on top of a long divide. On
+throwing a rock down the opening, I could hear it rattling against the
+walls until the sounds gradually died away, but there seemed to be no
+bottom to the hole, and I resolved to come again prepared and make
+explorations. After the snow had gone my twelve-year-old son, Ray, and
+I, mounted on our trusty horses, Bonnie and Dee, equipped with ropes,
+candles, hammers and a pocketful of matches, set out to explore the new
+cave. It was a beautiful, bright spring morning, and after an hour's
+hard climbing over fallen timber and rocks, we reached the summit of the
+mountain. A search of half an hour revealed the opening which was barely
+large enough to allow me to pass through.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Fastening our ropes securely to a stout log rolled across the chasm, we
+began to pay it out, and although we did not feel it touch bottom, I
+started down to explore, the length of the rope at least. As I descended
+I found the opening gradually widened out to eight or ten feet, a sort
+of inverted funnel-shaped hole with irregular wall but smooth and
+affording little footing. As I neared the bottom I saw the end of the
+rope was within four feet of it, so I landed on terra firma and called
+to Ray, 'All right, come down!'</p>
+
+<p>"Lighting our candles we found ourselves standing on a mound of pure
+onyx, and on looking around could see we were in an immense cavern,
+whose walls sparkled and glittered as if studded with diamonds. Going
+down twenty feet we found a smooth-floored room that measured three
+hundred feet in length, twenty five feet in width, and thirty feet in
+height. The walls were solid white onyx lined or banded with pink and
+golden stripes. The ceiling was arched, and draped in fantastic shapes,
+and hung with stalactites innumerable. The room was so large and the
+drapery and festooning so delicate and beautiful, that we were filled
+with awe and could not speak for a time.</p>
+
+<p>"At last we started to further explore this wonderland. On going to the
+farther end of the room we found a passage leading on. This we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">173</a></span> followed
+for a hundred feet and found the whole cavern lined with onyx and
+crystals clear as glass. After loading up with specimens we retraced our
+steps and on reaching the large room we had first entered we heard a
+roaring, rumbling noise. An awful noise truly, which filled us with an
+unknown dread.</p>
+
+<p>"On approaching the entrance we saw a stream of water pouring down,
+completely filling the hole.</p>
+
+<p>"For a moment we felt like rats caught in a trap, our only way of egress
+occupied by a stream of water falling straight down seventy feet, and
+then we wondered how long it would take to fill up the room.</p>
+
+<p>"Suddenly the thought that there might be an outlet for the water gave
+us new hope, so we went to see and sure enough we found a natural
+water-course down through an opening we had overlooked. We gathered up
+courage once more, and thought the best thing would be something to
+occupy our time. So we set to work getting out more specimens and in a
+couple of hours the water stopped running and we were ourselves once
+more.</p>
+
+<p>"Ray grasped the rope, which was soaking wet, and went up the seventy
+feet, hand over hand, like a cat. I, being heavier, found it quite
+different from going down. The rope played whip-cracker with me for some
+time and before reach<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span>ing the top I was covered with bruises. But
+daylight never appeared so beautiful before.</p>
+
+<p>"Here we found the cause of so much water. A cloud-burst had occurred on
+the Divide and a large portion of it had poured down the passage way to
+the cave.</p>
+
+<p>"We found our horses patiently waiting for us and night closing in.
+Mounting we rode rapidly home, resolved never to venture into this cave
+again without leaving some one at the entrance to give warning in case
+of danger.</p>
+
+<p>"John F. Sidey."</p>
+
+<p>The first specimen taken out was given to us on our first visit to the
+ranch, and is pure white with a stripe of brilliant golden yellow.
+Having been invited to give a name to this new find it seems quite
+proper after reading the description of the deluge and seeing the bright
+bands of color, and considering the hopeful promise of future
+possibilities, to call it The Rainbow Cave.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">5</span></a> Colored driver.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<h3>CRYSTAL CAVE.</h3>
+
+
+<p>South Dakota can boast of yet another cave in the Black Hills that was
+formed by volcanic disturbance of the rocks and afterwards decorated in
+a manner peculiar to itself. This is Crystal Cave. It is nine miles from
+Piedmont in the eastern edge of the Hills, and easily visited from that
+point by way of the narrow-gauge road, which winds along the natural
+curves of the beautiful Elk Creek ca&ntilde;on, whose walls are said to expose
+a depth of almost a mile of geological strata, although the exposure at
+any one point does not exceed three hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>The disappointment of not having seen this cave during the summer visit
+to the Hills grew as the weeks passed, and a request that the owner
+should send a description was answered with an assurance that it was
+impossible. Therefore, on Friday, November 13th, 1896, with a small
+nephew, Herbert A. Owen, Jr., for company, the trip was undertaken a
+second time to complete the unfinished mission.</p>
+
+<p>The first glimpse of the Hills is at Edgemont in the early morning, but
+the train makes its way to the north through the heart of the up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span>lift,
+twisting about the curves of the hills and clinging to the sides of a
+beautiful ca&ntilde;on whose high walls give way here and there to fine slopes
+densely covered with forests of pine and spruce. These look black in the
+distance and suggested the name of Black Hills to the Indians, who
+always have a reason for the names they give even to their children.</p>
+
+<p>There are great tracts where fire has killed part or all of the timber
+but left much of it standing, while in other places nature has defied
+the power of fire and the hills are re-clothed with young trees. A
+recent storm had further beautified the region with a few inches of
+snow, but as the day advanced a chinook began to blow so that when
+Deadwood was reached, soon after noon, only the northern exposures
+retained an appearance of winter.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Deadwood is a most peculiar little city and very attractive in its
+peculiarity, being crowded snugly into a depression between a number of
+steep pine-wooded hills, which gives an appearance suggestive of a
+bird's nest securely located among the forks of a branching tree, and as
+is the case in a nest, business is chiefly transacted at the lowest
+depth of the enclosure. As the busy center of a great gold-mining
+region, the metropolis of the Hills, and the outgrowth of an exciting
+historical past, it claims and receives interesting attention. And while
+the whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">177</a></span> Black Hills region is still distinctly a man's country, it
+is called woman's paradise, and surely nowhere else are the daughters of
+Eve received with a more gracious courtesy or surrounded by an equally
+unobtrusive protecting care.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo19.jpg" width="400" height="606" alt="Approaching Deadwood." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Approaching Deadwood. <a href="#Page_176">Page 176.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The streets leading up to the residences lack very little of standing on
+end, and the houses appear to have been hung in place by means of hooks
+and wire cord like pictures on a wall. The smelter has no reception day
+but admits visitors as if their pleasure were a guarantee of profit.</p>
+
+<p>The finest scenery in the Hills is said to be that of the Spearfish
+Ca&ntilde;on, north of Deadwood, and the finest of that at the Falls, but this
+may be doubtful as other points are very beautiful, especially where the
+Burlington &amp; Missouri Road requires a distance of seven miles to climb
+the ca&ntilde;on wall.</p>
+
+<p>Piedmont being the nearest town to Crystal Cave, we took the early
+evening train on the Elk Horn Road and soon were located, and shocked to
+learn that the proprietor of the cave had started several days before to
+drive to Wind Cave for specimens. The cave was closed and no one there.
+The trip had been taken for the one purpose of exploring Crystal Cave,
+and a letter sent in advance to announce our coming,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">178</a></span> but the train
+carrying it was an hour late so he drove off without the mail.</p>
+
+<p>There seemed at first nothing to be done but take the next returning
+train, which, under the circumstances, was objectionable. A night's rest
+and a telegram that had to be sent twelve miles by special messenger,
+improved the situation. The proprietor was unavoidably detained at Wind
+Cave, but secured a reliable guide, expressed me the cave keys, and has
+since married the "specimen" he had gone in quest of. May great
+happiness dwell at the cave many years!</p>
+
+<p>The morning of the third day after our arrival found arrangements all
+complete, and soon after the train left Piedmont it entered Elk Creek
+Ca&ntilde;on, which is always beautiful, but on that morning was exceptionally
+so on account of a sudden change in the weather having covered every
+visible portion of the passing landscape with heavy frost. The trees on
+distant hills that ordinarily are black, were, for once, all softly
+white, and when the tall pines in the ca&ntilde;on were shaken by a breeze,
+they cast a shower of flakes like snow.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">Here the ca&ntilde;on walls are in Carboniferous Limestone with a pleasing
+variety of color in the strata, and the erosion-carving not overdone,
+the most notable piece being the Knife-blade. This, at first view,
+appears to be a high, round tower, but the train following the curve,
+reveals<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">179</a></span> the fact that it is not a tower, but a thin, curved
+knife-blade. The sun just for one instant shone through a rift in the
+clouds, and added special charm to the scene.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo20.jpg" width="400" height="606" alt="The Knife-Blade." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Knife-Blade. <a href="#Page_178">Page 178.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A short distance beyond is Crystal Cave station, where the guide was
+waiting to take us in charge. He is an intelligent young man who has
+served an enlistment term in the army, is recently married, very
+obliging, and proud of being trustworthy.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery here is most beautiful as well as grand. The ca&ntilde;on makes a
+sharp turn toward the south, and on the north opens out into another
+ca&ntilde;on of even greater beauty and higher walls, the perpendicular being
+three hundred feet in places. Crystal Cave is in the hill embraced by
+the junction curve. The natural entrance is more than two hundred feet
+above the ca&ntilde;on bed and was naturally approached from above. A short
+walk up the north ca&ntilde;on, whose name has unfortunately slipped away, was
+over ice and snow the chinook had failed to reach, and brought us to a
+long stairway against the wall, which affords a more direct approach
+than nature gave and is a fair test of physical perfection.</p>
+
+<p>Finally a resting place is reached where the grandeur of the view can be
+enjoyed; and then a shorter stairway completes the ascent of the wall,
+but not of the hill, so there is still a con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">180</a></span>siderable upward walk
+through the forest of tall pines all carpeted with brilliant mats of
+kinnikinic with its shining leaves, glowing in shades of green and red,
+trying to rival the bright scarlet berries. The kinnikinic here
+resembles the wintergreen of the east, while in the mountains in
+Colorado it grows in the form of a shrub two to three feet in height,
+but with no variation in the leaf or berry.</p>
+
+<p>At last perserverance is rewarded with a view of the cave buildings and
+the summit of the hill rising yet higher beyond, and tall, straight
+pines swaying in the rising wind over all.</p>
+
+<p>One of the two houses was entered and preparations quickly made for
+entering the cave, the artificial tunnel entrance being only a little
+distance further on.</p>
+
+<p>The door was unlocked, candle-sticks taken from a shelf within, candles
+from the guide's supply lighted, and we went forward at last, into
+Crystal Cave. At the end of the new tunnel, a second door was passed
+through, which is locked on the inside during the visiting season by the
+last guide to enter, in order that no chance late arrival may enter
+alone and be lost.</p>
+
+<p>The first room is a small one at the junction of the natural and
+artificial entrances, from which we go upstairs to the Resting Room, in
+the highest level of the cave, and perfectly dry but otherwise of no
+special interest. After a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> short rest here we went down stairs at the
+side opposite that on which we entered, into a passage leading to the
+cave's first beauty, the Red Room. As the name indicates, the walls are
+vividly colored and represent the uncertain line which separates the
+Carboniferous strata from the Triassic rocks. The color is handsomely
+brought out here in contrast with masses of calcite crystal, so as to
+present by the combination a charmingly beautiful room, from which we
+retired, feet first, down a "squeeze" to the Bridal Chamber, where we
+found ourselves perched on an irregular narrow ledge, high up on the
+wall, and cherishing a private conviction that exploration had met a
+checkmate; but the guide reached the floor and my nephew, Herbert,
+scrambled down with as much ease as the chipmunk he had chased to the
+house top a while before; so a little application settled the difficulty
+and re-united the party. The room is an artistic study in red, and the
+only reason for its being called the Bridal Chamber is that the way out
+is decidedly more rough and difficult than that by which the entrance is
+effected; this, however, is an observation not based on official
+information.</p>
+
+<p>Off to one side of this room is Lost Man's Paradise, also in red and
+crystal, named in honor of the timely rescue of one who had faced the
+possibility of becoming a lost soul.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Another Fat Man's Misery, on a lower level, leads from the Bridal
+Chamber to the Big Dome, a large room with a fine dome-shaped ceiling
+from which heavy masses of crystals have fallen to the floor; and down a
+steep incline from here is Reef Rock, an immense fallen rock with box
+work on the under side, which at one time served to ornament the
+ceiling; and now this rock marks the beginning of Poverty Flat, a broad,
+low passage of great extent, that has been robbed of all its wonderful
+treasure of crystal and ends in a steep, rough declivity named Bunker
+Hill by the guides who dreaded to mount it when going out loaded with
+specimens. At the foot of the Hill is a bowlder of enormous size and
+with a pointed top, known as Pyramid Rock and giving the same name to
+the large room in which it stands.</p>
+
+<p>Every portion of Crystal Cave has at one time been heavily crusted with
+calcite crystals, mainly of the dog-tooth variety, and any barren places
+are so either because the surface has been removed for specimens, or
+thrown down by the violence of an earthquake. But where the latter has
+been the cause of removal, the crystals have in most cases been renewed,
+which is amply evidenced by the fallen masses being crystallized on all
+sides; and these as well as most of the walls, are not covered thinly
+with one crust, but layer has been added to layer<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> until the thickness
+is four to ten inches and often more. The ceilings that have been
+denuded by nature's forces during the same early period when water
+filled the cave were also renewed.</p>
+
+<p>From the Pyramid Room a narrow fissure forms a passage to the Cactus
+Chamber, where there is a marvelous floor on which the crystals are in
+bunches like cacti, and the beautiful ceiling is the finest and most
+irregular unbroken mass of crystal yet seen.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through a round hole known as the Needle's Eye, we enter
+Statuary Hall, where the latest inrush of water has eroded the sharp
+points from the crystals, leaving only smooth surfaces, and at the same
+time done much curious carving, the most conspicuous pieces of this work
+being a bear and the heads of an Indian and his baby.</p>
+
+<p>Out from the Hall are two important routes, one down the steep incline
+of Beaver's Slide to The Catacombs, and another, which we followed
+first, is through Rocky Run, a rough and rocky pass, to a large and
+handsomely crystallized chamber called the I.&nbsp;X.&nbsp;L. Room, on account of
+those three letters, over twelve inches in height, being distinctly and
+conspicuously worked in crystal on a magnificent piece of box work that
+would weigh nearly half a ton, for which an offer of five hundred
+dollars is said to have been refused.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">184</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The next chamber beyond is Tilotson Hall, very large and extremely
+rough, and named in honor of a teacher from the Normal School, who
+delivered an address here that gave much pleasure to both visitors and
+guides.</p>
+
+<p>The way to farther advance is now more difficult and through a jagged
+crevice of threatening appearance, but the trip is made in safety and
+with comparative ease, and brings us into Notre Dame, one of the largest
+chambers in the cave and perhaps the finest, although where so much is
+fine that may be uncertain. The display of box work and crystal is
+sufficiently gorgeous to do honor to the famous old cathedral of France,
+the ceiling especially being a masterpiece of the builder's and
+decorator's arts; but the grandest portion, which a visitor recently
+returned from foreign travel called The Russian Castle, on account of
+the magnificence of the large box work and pearly crystal masses, should
+rather be known as the great cathedral's crowning glory, The Altar.</p>
+
+<p>Another large room, the handsome Council Chamber, is entered just as
+that Altar of pearl is lost to view; and from there an up-hill trip is
+taken through a narrow crevice to Whale Flat, which is the natural
+history room, with a large whale as the show specimen.</p>
+
+<p>Going out from here we enter another crevice which serves as a steep
+stairway descending to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> a lower level, and measures from top to bottom
+one hundred and eighteen feet. This is called Rip Van Winkle's Stairway,
+and although merely a high and crooked crack in the rock, is very
+beautiful because heavily coated with crystal, the effect being
+especially striking at the top where the crystal is partly worn away and
+leaves exposed patches of red rock.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the Stairway is the first room containing water, and is
+called the Gypsy Camp. It is the most charming chamber yet visited, with
+not the smallest spot of plain or common rock visible. The ceiling,
+walls, floor, and groups of fallen rocks, are all unbroken masses of
+pearly calcite in crystals of varied sizes, with here and there a patch
+coated over with pure white carbonate of lime, or supporting a bunch of
+fragile egg-shell, which is a thin, hollow crust of lime carbonate,
+almost invariably having the pointed form of the dog-tooth spar. And
+there are also beautiful mats and banks of dainty white carbonate
+flowers. While waiting here for the guide to go in quest of the lunch we
+had carelessly left behind, the time was utilized in measuring the room,
+which is a small one. The size of the cave and our limited time for
+seeing it, prevented much-desired measurements from being taken in all
+parts of the cave.</p>
+
+<p>This room was found to be forty-eight feet long, the irregular width
+varied from fourteen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> to thirty feet and the height from four and
+one-half to ten feet. The crystal water basin is especially beautiful
+and the water so clear that we stood looking into it with
+disappointment, being thirsty and thinking it dry, until the guide
+laughingly dipped and offered a cupful. The basin is the segment of a
+circle rounding beneath a massive, overhanging crystal ledge of
+wonderful beauty, and is nine feet long by two in width. This room and
+the Stairway into it are alone worthy of a visit, but there is much that
+is finer still.</p>
+
+<p>Out of Gypsy Camp by way of Gunny Sack Crawl, so named by the workmen
+who spread gunny sacks to relieve the torture of crawling over the
+beautiful floor of sharp crystals, we enter the first chamber, where
+active operation is still maintained and certain branches of the great
+decorative industry of the cave may be carefully studied. This operative
+chamber, which is unnamed, would no doubt be called a factory in the
+east, but in its own locality would more likely be referred to as The
+Works.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">The next chamber entered is Crystal Flat, whose floor is completely
+covered with immense crystal blocks, and the wonderful crystal ceiling
+is exceedingly fine. But time being limited we must pass on into the
+Lake Room, where is Crystal Lake, the largest body of water in the cave.
+It is about thirty feet long by fifteen wide and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">187</a></span>its greatest depth
+is said to be ten feet. The water is cold and clear, and the gold fish
+introduced as an experiment three years ago are said to have grown
+rapidly but not yet turned white, and are not known to have become
+blind.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo21.jpg" width="400" height="612" alt="The Bridal Veil." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Bridal Veil. <a href="#Page_187">Page 187.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At some little distance from Crystal Lake, and not within the same range
+of vision, although in the same room, is Dry Lake, which to the surprise
+of the guide we found to be not dry, but full of limpid water through
+which we could distinctly see the delicate clusters of crystals it is
+depositing. They are of a pale honey yellow and are called Gum-drops on
+account of the resemblance to that variety of confection.</p>
+
+<p>The name Dry Lake was given because in blasting out a passage a
+misdirected shot went through the bottom of the Lake, which in
+consequence was soon drained; but the heavily charged water has sealed
+up the unfortunate break, and resumed its interrupted work. The ceiling
+drops to a height of little more than three feet directly above the Lake
+margin, and is a beautiful crystal mass, which at a little distance down
+the sloping floor appears as the background for a fine piece of cave
+statuary called The Bridal Veil, and formed of cream-tinted dripstone.
+Not a great deal of imagination is required to see a slender girlish
+figure completely enveloped in the flowing folds of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> wedding veil that
+falls lightly about her feet. The figure itself is three feet ten inches
+in height and stands on an almost flat circular base of the same
+material, that measures nine inches in depth and two feet eight inches
+in diameter. At times the water rises sufficiently to cover the base, in
+proof of which it left a fringe-like border of small sharp crystals,
+such as could be formed only beneath the water's surface. Most of this
+border has, unfortunately, been chiseled off for specimens, but will be
+renewed in time if left undisturbed; and that condition can easily be
+secured with a few feet of wire netting.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-bottom: 3em;">To one side of this room is a most daintily beautiful alcove so
+profusely decorated with fragile forms of dripstone that a passage
+through it without causing damage is extremely difficult. This alcove is
+about twenty-five feet in either direction, with a sloping floor almost
+covered with stalagmitic growths above the earlier deposit of sharp
+crystals, and many of these rise in slender columns to the glass-like
+ceiling, which varies in height from three to six feet and is thickly
+studded with small stalactites of both varieties&mdash;the pointed, solid
+form, and those of uniform size, which are always hollow like a pipe
+stem. The central ornament is the Chimes, a musical group of stalactites
+which is scarcely more beautiful than Cleopatra's Needle, at a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">189</a></span>distance of a few feet to one side, a transparent column four feet
+in height and having an average circumference of seventeen inches.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;  margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo22.jpg" width="400" height="514" alt="The Chimes." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Chimes. <a href="#Page_188">Page 188.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px; margin-bottom: 3em;">
+<img src="images/illo23.jpg" width="400" height="601" alt="The Needle." title="" />
+<span class="caption">The Needle. <a href="#Page_188">Page 188.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img src="images/illo24.jpg" width="400" height="611" alt="Tower of Babel." title="" />
+<span class="caption">Tower of Babel. <a href="#Page_189">Page 189.</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p class="padtop">The Abode of the Fairies is a similar, though smaller room, with The
+Tower of Babel for a handsome show-piece. While this portion of the cave
+is extremely attractive, the measurements given show that in comparison
+with caves of other states the drip deposit here is too small to be
+reckoned an important feature in itself, but in conjunction with the
+miles of calc-spar that give the cave a character distinctly its own, it
+well repays all attention.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Lake Room we enter a newly opened, long, dry passage to Slab
+Room, where a comparatively recent earthquake has shaken down the
+ornamental ceiling and spread it in great slabs over the floor; and
+having since remained perfectly dry it has the appearance of being the
+work of yesterday. This room is remembered as the one in which a party
+of workers were lost, and one of their number gave a severe nervous
+shock to the junior proprietor by suggesting that as he was acting as
+guide and unable to lead them out, it was only right that he should be
+the first victim to satisfy their hunger. A rescuing party with
+extinguished candles was listening behind a rock to the blood-curdling
+speech, and came forward to restore cheerfulness.</p>
+
+<p>A long, irregular, frosty looking crevice called<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">190</a></span> Jack Frost Streak,
+conducts us from Slab Room and ends at Mold Ladder, on which we pause to
+admire a wonderful growth of snow-white cave vegetation, before
+ascending into Santa Claus' Pass, the longest passage in the cave. It is
+a rough crevice named from the fact of being discovered on Christmas
+Eve, and ends at the Government Room on the main tourist route where a
+U.&nbsp;S. pack saddle and apparently portable bath tub are conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p>Next beyond is a very large room named New Zealand, on account or its
+icy appearance and the undisputed possession of a seal. This room in
+turn opens into Mold Chamber, where an old board platform, formerly used
+for the display of specimens, has fostered the most marvelously
+beautiful growth of mold: it hangs in ropes five and six feet long, with
+tasseled ends, and in broad, looped draperies; but is most beautiful
+where it has taken possession of the rocks and spreads out on the flat
+surface like large open fans, with deep, soft feather borders.</p>
+
+<p>Having been in the cave eight hours, we now followed the outward passage
+from Mold Chamber and soon reached an open trap door where the guide
+suggested to Herbert that he would be afraid to go down alone and allow
+him to close the door; but the child surprised him by quietly stepping
+down and then asking why he wished<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">191</a></span> it, only to be told "because we are
+coming too." Which we did and found ourselves in the main entrance
+passage, and in due time returned to the outer world where a terrific
+wind was roaring through the tall pines and the early winter evening had
+already closed in dark.</p>
+
+<p>The guide locked the cave, walked with us to the house where he lighted
+a lamp and left us to prepare for the return to town; but the lamp,
+belonging to a bachelor, was empty, so we made our preparations in
+imitation of the blind. On the guide's return he lighted a candle, but
+suggested that twenty minutes were generally allowed for reaching the
+station.</p>
+
+<p>The house was accordingly closed and as we walked down the long, curving
+slope to the stairway, he told of a new and unknown bob-tailed wolf that
+has recently made its first appearance among the hills in considerable
+numbers and to the terror of stock. It attacks and bites horses or
+cattle, and after waiting for the fatal poison inflicted to take effect,
+falls to and eats the victim.</p>
+
+<p>The uncovered platform which serves as a station being reached a few
+minutes before the train arrived, I expressed an unwillingness to detain
+our guide longer on account of his having a walk of four and a half
+miles to his home; but he declined to consider the subject;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">192</a></span> saying he
+had been directed not to leave us until we were taken safely on the
+train, which came sweeping round the curve on time and stopped for us.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<h3>CRYSTAL CAVE CONCLUDED.</h3>
+
+
+<p>According to agreement the guide again met us at the station on the
+following morning, for another day in the cave, which we entered with no
+unnecessary loss of time, and hurrying through the main entrance
+passage, Government Room and Statuary Hall, went down Beaver Slide,
+which, on the previous day, we had passed to enter Rocky Run. Our
+descent into the crevice took us past those portions known as Suspension
+Bridge and Rebecca's Well, and over some very "rough country" to the
+most wonderful parts of the cave. Numerous passages open out in various
+directions; one to rooms of frost work of great beauty; another to the
+Ribbon Room where the drip deposits on the walls are in ribbon-like
+stripes of red, yellow, and white, while others yet are ways to the
+Catacombs. And it is the Catacombs we particularly wish to see, as they
+most perfectly represent the individual character of the cave and have,
+as yet, received no injury from either time or man; but is a region as
+difficult to travel as the way of the transgressor, and many miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> can
+be traversed with no prospect of coming to the end. But where locomotion
+is so slow and painful, the owner of a pedometer would find that
+instrument a discouraging companion and soon learn better than to
+consult its record publicly.</p>
+
+<p>The Catacombs are a series of connected fissures and small crevices in
+which every inch of exposed surface is covered with clear, translucent,
+almost transparent, calcite crystals, neither coated with lime nor
+stained with clay; nor even is the pearly lustre dimmed with the
+slightest trace of dust. The crystals are very sharp and of all sizes,
+ranging from half an inch to three and a half inches in length, the
+larger sizes being conspicuously abundant. The entire region is an
+enormously large, perfectly formed, and undamaged geode. In reality, the
+whole cave is a great cluster of connected geodes, and a similar work
+probably does not exist, but if it does, has never been discovered. The
+fissures from which it is formed were opened by volcanic violence and
+then enlarged, and afterwards decorated by the varied power of water, in
+action or repose.</p>
+
+<p>When the storms toward the close of the Tertiary period suddenly
+overwhelmed with floods the dense growth of tropical vegetation and
+multitudinous animal life in the Northwest, the waters necessarily
+became heavily charged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> with the naturally resulting carbonic acid gas,
+and this, acting on the limestone rocks, would decompose them, leaving a
+residual clay and taking the chief portions of the mineral components in
+solution, to be afterwards deposited according to circumstances and
+conditions; and these are indicated by the various results found in Wind
+Cave, Crystal Cave, the Onyx Caves and the Bad Lands. The latter being
+previous to that time by no means "bad," but richly luxuriant in
+tropical vegetation, which gave shelter from the heat to great numbers
+of curious animals.</p>
+
+<p>Some approximate idea of the extreme age of these caves may be gained
+from the fact that bones of a three-toed horse have been discovered in a
+chamber of Crystal Cave that must be practically unchanged since the
+remains were carried in from the outside, as otherwise they would have
+been buried beneath the fallen masses of crystal covered rock with which
+the entire floor is cumbered. And yet this room is so remote from any
+present connection with the outer world that it is impossible for their
+introduction to have taken place in recent times.</p>
+
+<p>In the beautiful Catacombs progress is as slow as in a cactus thicket or
+a blackberry patch. The crevices lack none of the usual crevice
+irregularities; high places must be mounted or descended, chasms crossed
+and narrow passages crawled through, while extra caution<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">196</a></span> must be
+exercised to avoid striking the head or making a misstep that might
+result in a fall. The hands are in constant use and soon become so
+sensitive that holding a soft handkerchief gives infinite relief; but
+the worst experience is the "crawls" where only the soles of the feet,
+being temporarily turned up, seem safe from the savage treatment of the
+sharp calcite dog-teeth. The worst crawl encountered was a small one
+having a downward slope with a jump-off at the end which necessitated
+its being taken feet first. Fortunately it was short. But in no place do
+the difficulties outweigh the pleasure of beholding scenes of such
+beauty, or suggest regret for the time, torn garments, and personal
+exertion required for its enjoyment.</p>
+
+<p>In many portions of the cave the surface layer of crystals has had the
+points worn away by the action of water, later than that in which they
+were formed; but in the Catacombs and other extensive regions as well,
+the finished work of crystallization is preserved in an absolutely
+perfect condition. And everywhere the largest crystals are on the under
+side of a projection or the roof of a cavity.</p>
+
+<p>As the day was passing far too rapidly and many points of special
+interest yet remained unseen, we turned with reluctance from the beauty
+and relief from the hardships of exploration in the Catacombs, and made
+our way<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">197</a></span> over a crevice into Santa Claus' Pass, which was traversed for
+a considerable distance and then abandoned for a low crawl terminating
+at the Senate Chamber. This is a large room extending to Poverty Flat,
+and is brilliantly red and purely white, most of the crystal presenting
+a smooth surface. Under the Senate Chamber there is said to be some fine
+box work which we had no time to visit. The name of this chamber was
+given by a visiting party composed of members of both houses of
+Congress. A smaller room, which is really an extension of the Senate
+Chamber, has handsome walls of white and red box work on account of
+which the same distinguished party called it the Senate Post-office.</p>
+
+<p>From here a difficult crawl, through red rock, well-worn by the action
+of water, leads to the Starr Chamber, another large room in white and
+red, and named by Senator Starr of South Dakota.</p>
+
+<p>Opening out from the last room is a curious, dangerous looking, narrow,
+crevice-chamber known as Suicide Room on account of the threatening
+appearance of over-hanging rocks, some of which have at times fallen in
+great masses of various sizes to form an irregular floor; and a descent
+of this is necessary in order to reach a short and extremely rough
+crawl, beautifully and painfully decorated with sharp crystals above and
+below and on the sides. From this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">198</a></span> we emerge into Rainy Chamber, an
+elliptical room not less than two hundred feet long by one hundred feet
+wide, with a tent-like ceiling rising high in the center and sloping
+down to meet the floor, which also slopes irregularly toward a deep
+central depression, giving the room a greater height than any other
+visited. The high points are generally seen in the narrow crevices,
+while the rooms of generous length and breadth are usually low, many of
+the largest having an average of five feet or even less.</p>
+
+<p>Although there is frequent intersection of crevices, and each chamber
+has passages leading out on every side, the general direction of the
+cave is said to be northwest-southeast.</p>
+
+<p>Rainy Chamber is named from the fact that during the early months of
+summer water falls constantly in the form of a light shower; but it
+drips at all times, and in consequence there is an opportunity to study
+the active process of formation of one of the deposits which is very
+abundant in Wind Cave and considered the most perplexing. This is the
+pop-corn, and the theories of its origin have been steadily rejected at
+Wind Cave because of a doubt being entertained as to whether it has been
+deposited under water or by drippings. Here in Rainy Chamber it is fully
+explained. Near the center of the room the fallen masses are heavily
+crystallized,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">199</a></span> much of the groundwork being fine box work and the
+crystals in perfect condition. On these crystals the pop-corn is being
+formed, and specimens can be seen in all stages of development, from the
+beginning to an approximate degree of finish; and whatever the position
+it occupies on the receiving surface, either on top, underneath, or on a
+side exposure, it always maintains the same relative position as growing
+plants on the mundane sphere. The water falling on the upper surface in
+scattering drops forms myriads of minute stalagmites; on side positions
+the falling drop first strikes the point exposed to its line of descent
+and then spreads. The scant moisture slowly makes its way down sloping
+sides and shelving edges, leaving on each small irregularity a tiny
+portion of its volume, to deposit an infinitely small charge of solid
+substance, and the balance finally hangs in moisture less than drops on
+the growing grains of the under surface.</p>
+
+<p>Pop-corn, therefore, is the globular aragonite of the stalagmitic
+variety. A small specimen from Rainy Chamber, placed beside one of the
+same color from Wind Cave, shows them to be absolutely alike.</p>
+
+<p>Rainy Chamber is the room in which the bones of the three-toed horse,
+already referred to, were found, but their presence has not yet been
+explained; therefore the case is open to con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span>jecture and several
+theories may be advanced and their values considered. The first question
+when such a discovery is made, is whether the living animal was possibly
+a cave-dweller; which, as the horse was not, is quickly disposed of and
+attention turned to the next, the possibility of a carniverous animal
+having carried his prey into the dark recesses of the cave in order that
+the enjoyment of his dinner might be undisturbed. This theory is equally
+unavailable by reason of the topographical features presented. If the
+present natural entrance to the cave were the only way into this room
+from the outside, the distance was too great and beset with many
+difficulties; besides which the final passage is too small to admit an
+animal of sufficient size to carry any considerable portion of even a
+very small horse. But if at that period the room had direct
+communication with the outside through an opening since closed, the
+shape of the walls indicate that it must have been a pot-hole in the
+roof, and through this an animal could have entered by falling, which
+the horse and others may have done. But it seems most probable that the
+remains were carried in by the water through such a hole before it was
+closed at the beginning of the Quaternary period, when the erosion of
+the Hills was most active.</p>
+
+<p>Rainy Chamber also contains a large and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">201</a></span> beautiful assortment of the
+small polished and coated pebbles called cave pearls.</p>
+
+<p>The guide being anxious that we should not fail to see the Niagara Room,
+we now turned toward a low, broad opening in the wall, a short distance
+to the right of the entrance, where the rising floor and descending
+ceiling, failing to meet, had overlapped; so we made our way up a steep,
+smooth bank, and then down on the other side over a broken, rocky
+surface for a distance of about twenty feet, when the roof at last
+joined the floor and two small water-worn holes at the point of junction
+revealed an untempting passage within. The broader of these holes was
+three feet, but too low to be considered an entrance; the other was
+round but certainly not so large as our guide, who was preparing to
+enter it with doubts of his ability to make the trip, on account of
+having increased in size since his one entrance there, on which occasion
+two smaller guides pulled him through the tightest places. Carefully
+comparing his size with that of the hole he sat beside, there was no
+possibility of doubt that if the attempt were made he would stick fast,
+and that would place our little party in dire straits. Consequently I
+insisted that it should not be, but he was unwilling that Niagara should
+be missed when so near. Finally I positively refused to go unless he
+would consent to give us instructions and remain where he was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">202</a></span> while we
+went without him, to which he at last yielded with extreme
+unwillingness. He had frequently shown us the guide's marks, and now
+earnestly cautioned me to advance only as they point, and turn back if
+they should fail.</p>
+
+<p>The small nephew went on a reconnoitering expedition to the end of the
+passage, and reported that the jump-off there was higher than himself
+but he could get down. I now crawled through the hole and found the
+passage to be a "crawl" or rather a "sprawl," from fifteen to eighteen
+inches high, but having an ample width varying from three to six feet.
+The smooth, straight floor has a steep downward inclination and is
+thickly covered with dust.</p>
+
+<p>Having reached the widest portion, which is near the end, Herbert
+directed me to turn, so as to come down the jump-off feet first, where
+there was a little difficulty in landing, as the perpendicular wall,
+which proved to be almost five feet high, offered only one projecting
+help, and that within a few inches of the base; but in obedience to his
+advice to "reach one foot a little farther down and then drop," I
+advanced the right one, to be told not that, but the other, and was soon
+down where it was possible to observe with interest that the right foot
+had been swinging above an open fissure. We stood in a wide crevice
+running at right angles to the obnoxious passage we had just<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">203</a></span> quit, and
+immediately found a guide's mark on a large rock, and others followed at
+intervals of a few feet over extremely "rough country" as the guides
+say. Everywhere the work of water was apparent, not in the crystal
+deposits of still water as in other portions of the cave, but the
+erosion due to its rushing through. Carefully following the marks, they
+led into a cross-crevice that took us under Rainy Chamber, and ends
+there by widening into a circular chamber of about fifty feet width in
+either direction, and rising to a height of nearly fifty feet in a fine
+dome. Down the wall from near the top of the dome there appears to flow
+a beautiful waterfall showing a variety of colors in the straight lines,
+as if from refraction. The fall is, of course, dripstone, and I knew we
+had found Niagara, although we had gone beyond the reach of the guide's
+voice almost at the start. A huge rock directly under the dome has
+received the falling drip until it represents a mountain cataract. These
+deposits testify to the great age of the chamber they adorn, as they
+were necessarily not commenced until all heavy flow ceased, and in
+Crystal Cave the accumulation of dripstone is so slow that it is said
+six years' observation can detect no increase whatever.</p>
+
+<p>Several small passages at the floor level gave exit to the great volume
+of water that evidently<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">204</a></span> at one time entered this crevice, from Rainy
+Chamber, by the route we followed, and being checked in its course the
+lower end of the crevice became filled, under pressure; and the low
+position of the outlets gave this water a whirling motion that in time
+excavated the dome-shaped room.</p>
+
+<p>No part of Crystal Cave has ever been occupied by a river, but its
+fissures, opened by the violence of earth movements accompanying nearby
+volcanic disturbances, have been filled more than once by the inrush of
+waters which repeatedly submerged the whole Black Hills region.</p>
+
+<p>Following again the marks which guided us into Niagara Room, we soon
+came within hailing distance of a voice expressive of profound relief;
+and as we crawled up the sloping passage, over-heated and breathless
+with the exertion, the guide assured us he was most truly thankful to
+see us again, as he had never in his life experienced so severe a scare
+as since it had occurred to him that we had gone beyond the limits of
+communication without a single match.</p>
+
+<p>He also said I had been where no lady had ever gone before, and took
+satisfaction in the fact that many men have refused to make the venture
+with a guide.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this portion of the cave, by returning as we came, through
+Suicide Room, Starr Chamber, and Senate Chamber, we crawled<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">205</a></span> along the
+rocks overhanging a narrow fissure, to reach a ladder at the end, by
+which we descended to another part of the Catacombs. Here, after
+traveling a long distance over uneven floors covered with sharp
+crystals, as were all surfaces, through large, low rooms, and narrow,
+crooked passages, constantly assisting the difficult advance with our
+hands, like monkeys, we finally came to The Grotto, which is probably
+the most remarkable room in this very remarkable cave. It is a large
+room, with much of the irregular ceiling so low that even the small
+nephew struck his head severely while turning to warn me, as he often
+did, of threatening inequalities in the floor and light them with his
+own candle. The crystals here are exceptionally fine, being very sharp
+and of unusual size, besides many of them being double&mdash;that is, pointed
+at both ends. Through this beautiful ceiling there is a percolating drip
+adding stalactites to the crystal-points and piling stalagmites on the
+crystal masses below, varying this with imitation cascades, mats of
+small flowers, and masses of pop-corn. Off to one side in a kind of
+recess there is a depression in the crystal floor filled with clear,
+cold water.</p>
+
+<p>A glance at the time now showed us to be in danger of failure to meet
+the train to town, and consequently, tired as we were after nine hours
+of rough travel and much climbing, it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">206</a></span> necessary to make our way out
+with more speed than comfort, and we found the weather turning very
+cold. The cave was carefully locked, preparations for the train
+hurriedly made, the house closed, and as we left it the train could be
+heard coming down the ca&ntilde;on, but we arrived at the station first, though
+breathless, and a few minutes later were in Piedmont, too tired to
+properly enjoy a hot venison supper.</p>
+
+<p>As to the size of Crystal Cave, it is impossible to make any positive
+statement; for as Mr. McBride, the proprietor, says, no survey has yet
+been made. Other persons said that thirty-six miles is the greatest
+claim made for the combined length of all passages, and sixteen miles
+the least, so it may be wise to accept the lesser number until a survey
+proves it wrong.</p>
+
+<p>The box work in Crystal Cave is not of such great abundance as to demand
+special attention, but is very beautiful, and one variety deserves
+particular mention. These boxes have been formed in dark red sandstone,
+and after being emptied of their original contents, have been completely
+filled with colorless calcite crystals, and over this is spread an outer
+surface of the same crystals tinted a brilliant flame color by red
+paint-clay having been taken in solution by the crystal forming waters.
+A specimen of this was a temptation too great to be resisted even in the
+owner's absence.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">207</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Some of the box work is of such size that a single box may have a
+capacity equal to that of a bushel measure, but it is less beautiful
+than the smaller forms.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we left Piedmont, and having a desire for
+greater personal knowledge of the Hills, took the same train which had
+taken us to the cave, and traveled to its western terminus, Lead City.
+The interesting scenery makes this a desirable trip for any one visiting
+the Hills, but its beauty is chiefly massed at the ends, the middle
+distance being over gradually rising ground, which is without a
+counterpart of the rocky ca&ntilde;on left behind or more than a suggestion of
+the high hills yet to come. The special charm of this portion was the
+magnificent pine forest which covered it until three years ago, when it
+was swept by a terrible fire, from which the settlers escaped with only
+their lives; and even that would have been impossible if the railroad
+company had not kept refuge trains waiting for them just ahead of the
+flames. The prominent geological feature here is the porphyry dikes,
+which are becoming more numerous and more prominent, and in many places
+resemble a conspicuous group near Harney Peak, called The Needles. These
+dykes are of special interest in connection with a study of the caves,
+since they are probably of simultaneous origin.</p>
+
+<p>The same volcanic movements that caused the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> violent upheaval of the
+whole region, and thrust up molten masses through the strata to form a
+central core to the Hills, must also have rent the nearby regions with
+fissures through which probably much gas escaped, and having been
+further opened and then adorned, now demand our attention as caves of
+unique and curious beauty.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to Lead is over the hill-tops with a magnificent distant
+view, and the first glimpses of that young city famous for having as a
+center the Homestake mine, the largest gold mine in the world, are
+charming. It is situated far down in a valley among the high hills and
+spreads some distance up the surrounding slopes.</p>
+
+<p>The works of the great mine are wonderful, and visitors welcome to
+examine whatever they find interesting; any questions they wish to ask
+are graciously answered, although every one is busy. This is not a
+special favor to the exceptional few, but the courtesy shown to all.
+Visitors are also welcome to descend into the mine, but as an attendant
+is necessary on account of dangers to be avoided, a permit must be
+obtained at the office.</p>
+
+<p>Several other caves have been discovered in the Black Hills, the largest
+of which is the Davenport Cave at Sturgis. Very little exploration has
+yet been done in it, but indications<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">209</a></span> are said to be that it will take
+rank among the large ones.</p>
+
+<p>At Galena, a new mining town of golden promise, there is reported to be
+an Ice Cave, where ice forms at all seasons, and during the warm weather
+is a source of comfort and pleasure to the miners.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, as train time for continuing the homeward journey
+approached, the snow storm which began gently early in the afternoon,
+grew steadily more severe. A carriage to the depot was not to be had, as
+every vehicle in town had gone to the funeral of an old-timer in the
+Hills and the return delayed by the storm. The situation could not be
+regarded as a special pleasure, but cave hunters learn to accept
+whatever is and be thankful for the general average. At the last moment,
+however, a team was driven up and permission given us to make use of it.
+It proved to be the private conveyance of the hotel proprietor, and the
+young boy who accompanied us, his son.</p>
+
+<p>Our train was on time, and the ride through the Hills to their southern
+limit, in the falling snow, was wonderfully beautiful; but the storm
+continued for many days and was one of the most severe on record.</p>
+
+<p>Those persons who have been so unfortunate as to permit themselves to
+accept a ready made opinion of dangers and roughness to be met<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> with in
+the more newly settled regions, might find a tour of the Hills doubly
+interesting by making a supplementary study of "The Living Age," which
+cannot be so correctly viewed from a distance as is sometimes supposed,
+since the specimens exhibited are not always a true average of the
+strata they are supposed to represent.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">211</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<h3>CONCLUSION.</h3>
+
+
+<p>After a visit to the marvelous caverns of the Black Hills, much may be
+added to the pleasure already enjoyed, through the explanatory activity
+of the Yellowstone National Park, where even the wonderful combinations
+of beauty and grandeur are by no means the full measure of attraction
+and charm. Here is found evidence to verify theories concerning the
+caves, and those theories in turn contribute in no small degree to a
+satisfactory understanding of the mysteries of geyser action. For
+scientific study the two regions should be taken together, since the
+natural conditions are practically the same, and the chief difference
+lies in the stages of development; the present of the Park explaining
+the recent past of the Hills, while the present of the Hills foretells
+the future of the Park. It seems that Nature, with a full appreciation
+of the limits and restrictions binding our powers to penetrate certain
+secrets of an intermittent force, has in this great western country
+carefully prepared what might quite properly be termed a progressive
+course of study, wherein<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">212</a></span> each locality makes plain a special point that
+somewhere else appears obscure.</p>
+
+<p>As has been said in the preceding chapters, the two great caves in the
+Black Hills of South Dakota cannot be accounted for by the same methods
+as are recognized as being responsible for the slow excavation of the
+best known caves of the United States. Although there is every
+indication that both these caves have been subject to the action of
+enormous volumes of water, there is equally positive evidence that
+neither was ever the scene of a flowing cave-river. The lowest levels in
+both show the narrowest fissures and the heaviest deposits of crystal,
+by which we infer that the water was held in confinement here, while all
+the higher passages or channels bear witness to the water's flow. But
+many of these channels in Crystal Cave, or indeed we might say, most of
+them, present an unmistakable record of the gauge of the water stage at
+different periods. During the earlier time, when the volume of water and
+consequent pressure were greatest, frictional motion must have been
+limited to the main channel connecting with the vent, and the high gauge
+of water maintained a fairly uniform degree of heat near its surface. In
+consequence of these conditions geyser action, probably, was constant,
+and chemical activity was such that great chambers were formed and then
+decorated, as already described,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> with wonderful masses of crystal. As
+the water gauge receded to lower levels the higher chambers became
+storage basins for water and steam forced up by the pressure from below,
+and the time required for these to fill and accumulate sufficient
+pressure to continue the ejectment, formed the periods between eruptions
+after the geyser became intermittent. It was during this stage that the
+sharp crystals in many of the channels, now called passages, were worn
+down to smooth surfaces; and later, when water occupied only the lowest
+level, and the great geyser had become reduced to merely a steam vent,
+the channels immediately connecting with that level were in their turn
+subjected to the same smoothing process, and then all action ceased.</p>
+
+<p>As no two of the glorious geysers of the Yellowstone Park are alike,
+neither do the two great caves of the Hills indicate that they should be
+so. The vent-tubing of each is quite unlike that of the other in all the
+essential governing points of length, size, shape, angle of inclination
+and power-conserving bends. And the differences extend in an almost
+equally marked degree throughout the vast and complicated succession of
+storage chambers and their connecting channels. The small vent of Wind
+Cave shows that the ejected jet was far from being equal to that of the
+Crystal Cave in volume; but the nearly perpendicular long arm of its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">214</a></span>
+tube shows also that its jet attained a much greater height, even
+supposing that it should be necessary to make some allowance for a short
+elbow at the top.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Hayden's geological party gave much attention to the Yellowstone
+Park while its wonders were new to the world, and observations were made
+at various times during the period included between the years 1869 and
+1870. The special study, and full report of the geysers became the duty
+of Dr. A.&nbsp;C. Peal, whose descriptions and conclusions were published in
+U.&nbsp;S. Geological Survey Report, 1878, Part II. In the final pages of his
+report he quotes the leading authorities on geyser action, and applies
+the principles of their theories, according to his own judgment, to the
+geysers of the park. Since copies of this report are not now easily
+obtained, nor even always accessible to the increasing number of
+personages who visit the park, it may be well to quote from him some of
+the theories he discussed and the opinions he expressed. On page 416,
+beginning the chapter with the derivation of the word geyser from the
+Icelandic word <i>geysa</i>&mdash;to gush, he continues:</p>
+
+<p>"We now come to the definition of a geyser. It may be defined to be a
+periodically eruptive or intermittent <i>hot</i> spring, from which the water
+is projected into the air in a fountain-like column. The analogy between
+geysers and vol<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">215</a></span>canoes has frequently been noticed and the former have
+often been described as volcanoes which erupt heated water instead of
+melted lava. We have italicized the word hot in the definition just
+given, because springs containing a large amount of gas may simulate
+geysers.</p>
+
+<p>"The difference between geysers and ordinary hot springs is not readily
+explained, nor even always recognized. The difference between a quiet
+thermal spring and a geyser in active eruption is very marked, but
+between the two there is every grade of action. Some geysers appear as
+quiet springs, as for instance the Grand Geyser during its period of
+quiescence. Others might easily be mistaken for constantly boiling
+springs, as in the case of the Giant Geyser, in which the water is
+constantly in active ebullition. This is true also of the Strockr of
+Iceland. Many of the springs, therefore, that in the Yellowstone Park
+have been classed as constantly boiling springs may be unsuspected
+geysers. The Excelsior Geyser was not discovered to be a geyser until
+eight years after the setting aside of the park. Almost all constantly
+boiling springs have periods of increased activity, and those which
+spurt a few feet into the air have been classed as pseudo-geysers.</p>
+
+<p>"It has been noticed that geysers occur where the intensity of volcanic
+action is decreasing. In the neighborhood of active volcanoes, such as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">216</a></span>
+Vesuvius, the temperature appears to be too high, and the vapor escapes
+as steam from what are called stufas. When the rocks at the surface are
+more cooled the water comes forth in liquid form.</p>
+
+<p>"We will now pass to the various geyser theories that have been proposed
+by different writers."</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Peal then proceeds to give the theories of Sir J. Herschell and Sir
+George McKenzie, but as they are accepted and extended by others, we may
+pass on to Bischof's, of which Dr. Peal says: "Very similar to
+McKenzie's theory is the one adopted by Bischof in his Researches on the
+Internal Heat of the Globe (pages 227, 228). It is really the theory of
+Krug Von Nidda, who examined the geyser in 1833. Bischof says:</p>
+
+<p>"'He (Krug Von Nidda) takes it for granted that these hot springs derive
+their temperature from the aqueous vapors rising from below. When these
+vapors are able to rise freely in a continued column the water at the
+different depths must have a constant temperature equal to that at which
+water would boil under the pressure existing at the respective depths;
+hence the constant ebullition of the permanent springs and their boiling
+heat. If, on the other hand, the vapors be prevented by the complicated
+windings of its channels from rising to the sur<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">217</a></span>face; if, for example,
+they be arrested in caverns, the temperature in the upper layers of
+water must necessarily become reduced, because a large quantity of it is
+lost by evaporation at the surface, which cannot be replaced from below.
+And any circulation of the layers of water at different temperatures, by
+reason of their unequal specific gravities, seems to be very much
+interrupted by the narrowness and sinuousity of the passage. The
+intermitting springs of Iceland are probably caused by the existence of
+caverns, in which the vapor is retained by the pressure of the column of
+water in the channel which leads to the surface. Here this vapor
+collects, and presses the water in the cavern downward until its elastic
+force becomes sufficiently great to effect a passage through the column
+of water which confines it. The violent escape of the vapor causes the
+thunder-like subterranean sound and the trembling of the earth which
+precedes each eruption. The vapors do not appear at the surface until
+they have heated the water to their own temperature.</p>
+
+<p>"'When so much vapor has escaped that the expansive force of that which
+remains has become less than the pressure of the confining column of
+water, tranquility is restored, and this lasts until such a quantity of
+vapor is again collected as to produce a fresh eruption. The spouting of
+the spring is therefore repeated at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> intervals, depending on the
+capacity of the cavern, the height of the column of water, and the heat
+generated below.'" Dr. Peal continues:</p>
+
+<p>"Bishof says that the eruptions of the Geyser and Strockr agree exactly
+with this explanation and he accounts for the two distinct classes of
+eruption observed in the Geyser as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"'The two distinct classes of eruption in the geyser which we have
+already mentioned seem to be attributable to two different cavities. A
+small cavity fills quicker, and, therefore, empties itself more
+frequently; a larger one fills slower, empties itself seldomer, but with
+greater violence.'"</p>
+
+<p>Bunsen's theory is the next considered and is somewhat similar to
+Bischof's but with notable differences. After taking temperatures at
+different points in the Geyser tube his first conclusions are that:</p>
+
+<p>(1) The temperature in the geyser tube increases as we descend.</p>
+
+<p>(2) At no point does the water in the tube attain the temperature of
+ebullition which it should have under the pressure to which it is
+subjected, but the temperature depends on the time that has elapsed
+since the last eruption. As a great eruption comes near it approaches
+the boiling point.</p>
+
+<p>(3) At the depth of about forty-five feet the difference between the
+temperature of the water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> and the calculated boiling point for that
+pressure is the least.</p>
+
+<p>The main point of his theory appears to be that an eruption takes place
+when the water in the tube reaches the boiling point, and to account for
+it, "He supposes that the column in the central tube communicates by a
+long and sinuous channel with some space, be it what it may, which is
+subjected to the action of the direct source of subterranean heat. The
+temperature gets raised above the boiling point, due to the pressure,
+and a sudden generation of steam is the result. This steam rises in the
+column of water, which, being cooler, causes it to condense. Gradually
+the heat of the water is raised until the water of the channel must
+boil, and the steam therefore cannot condense, but must accumulate and
+acquire a gradually increasing tension. The condensation of the bubbles
+possesses a periodic character, and to this is due the uplifting of the
+water in what Bunsen calls conical water hills, which are accompanied by
+the subterranean explosions."</p>
+
+<p>Prof. Comstock is quoted as thinking "Bunsen's theory has not yet been
+proved adequate to explain the more prominent features of geyser
+eruptions. Nor does it, in his opinion, account for all the differences
+between geysers and hot springs, and he proposes a structural<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span>
+hypothesis which combines Bischof's and Bunsen's theories."</p>
+
+<p>This hypothesis is illustrated by a figure in which a reservoir partly
+filled with water is connected with the surface by a tube having a
+double curve, and he explains that the water collecting in the depressed
+curve should confine the steam, rising from the reservoir in the other
+curve until the pressure is sufficient to cause an eruption. His theory
+of action being that the water in the reservoir remains in equilibrium
+at a certain level, and the constant heat fills the space above with
+vapor, which heats the water held in the downward bend of the tube, and
+that also evolves vapor which fills the balance of the tube to the vent.
+When the combined pressure of this vapor and water are overcome by the
+expansion of vapor accumulated above the reservoir, they are forced out,
+and followed by a portion of the water of the reservoir. This theory is
+in the report of Captain Jones on Northwestern Wyoming.</p>
+
+<p>The last theory cited by Dr. Peal is that of S. Baring-Gould, "Who
+visited the Iceland geysers in 1863, and thinks that a bent tube is
+sufficient to explain the action of the Great Geyser. He took an iron
+tube and bent it in an angle of 110&deg;, keeping one arm half the length of
+the other. He filled the tube with water and placed the short arm in the
+fire. For a moment the surface<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span> of the liquid remained quiet, and then
+the pipe began to quiver; a slight overflow took place, without any sign
+of ebullition, and then suddenly, with a throb, the whole column was
+forced high into the air. With a tube, the long arm of which measured
+two feet and the bore of which was three-eighths of an inch, he sent a
+jet to the height of eighteen feet. Steam is generated in the short arm
+and presses down the water, causing an overflow until the steam bubble
+turns the angle, when it forces out the column in the long arm with
+incredible violence."</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Peal now goes on to say:</p>
+
+<p>"Of the theories that we have just enumerated, perhaps no one is
+adequate to explain all the phenomena of geyser action. Bunsen's theory
+comes nearest to it, and in the simplest kinds of geysers is a
+sufficient explanation. The variations and modifications in the geyser
+tubes and subterranean water passages must undoubtedly be important
+factors entering into any complete explanation of geyser action. Now, of
+course, we can see what the conditions are at the surface, but in our
+experiments we can penetrate to a very inconsiderable distance. We have,
+therefore, no data to present on these points, and investigations of
+this branch of the subject will have to be carried on in an artificial
+manner; that is artificial geysers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">222</a></span> will have to be constructed, and
+various modifications made in the tubes until results are reached
+analogous to those seen in natural geysers. If water in a glass tube be
+heated with rapidity from the bottom, it will be expelled from the tube
+violently, and if boiled in a kettle which has a lid and a spout, either
+the lid will be blown off or the water will be forced out through the
+spout. The first case is an illustration, in part at least, of Bunsen's
+theory, and the second exemplifies the theories which presuppose the
+existence of subterranean cavities with tubes at or near the surface.
+According to the former we must suppose that the layer of rock,
+extending seventy-five to seventy-seven feet below the surface, contains
+sufficient heat to account for geyseric phenomena; or else that the
+geyser tube has some opening, either at the bottom or on the sides, by
+which steam and superheated water have access to it from a considerably
+greater depth where the temperature is very high. At these depths
+caverns probably exist."&nbsp;*&nbsp;*&nbsp;*&nbsp;*</p>
+
+<p>"That such cavities exist is more than probable. On page 405 I have
+indicated my belief, that all geysers are originally due to a violent
+outburst of steam and water, and under such conditions, irregular
+cavities and passages are more likely to be formed than regular tubes."&nbsp;*&nbsp;*</p>
+
+<p>"In view of what we have just written, Bun<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">223</a></span>sen's conclusion (No. 2)
+would have to be modified somewhat. His conclusion was that at no point
+in the tube did the water attain the temperature of ebullition which it
+should have under the pressure to which it is subjected. As far as this
+relates to the straight tube in which his temperatures were taken, it
+may be so; but if he could have taken temperatures in the side conduit,
+I have little doubt he would soon have reached a point where the
+temperature would not only be at the boiling point for that depth but
+even exceed it. In the Yellowstone Park we obtained a number of surface
+temperatures which were above the boiling point. In the Great Geyser of
+Iceland, the mass of water in the tube prevents this condition at the
+surface, and when it takes place opposite the aperture an eruption is
+caused. In the main, however, I am inclined to accept Bunsen's theory,
+especially as it seems to me to require subterranean cavities in which
+the water must be heated. Whether these are caverns, enlargements of
+tubes, or sinus channels, appears to me to be of no consequence, except
+as the interval or period of the geyser might be affected by the form of
+the reservoir holding the water."</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Peal has reached conclusions which present an imaginary picture of
+the interior structure of the great geysers of the Park, that bears a
+striking resemblance to what the two caves of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">224</a></span> the Black Hills prove to
+be the true conditions; although it is evident he had in mind caverns of
+no such vast extent, nor of so complicated a system of cavities and
+tubes. He overlooked an important feature, however, in not accepting
+Professor Comstock's idea of the tube having a double curve. The double
+curve is, or was, conspicuous in both the caves. Unfortunately, its
+perfection in Wind Cave was necessarily partially sacrificed to make the
+passage traversable for visitors; but in describing the enormous labor
+of opening up the cave, Mr. McDonald showed how an arching "crawl" had
+been worked down by blasting, and the depression beyond filled to raise
+it to the desired level for securing the present easy passage at the
+bottom of the main tube, which is the entrance passage. This double
+curve in the tube is simply the rough original of the S trap of sanitary
+plumbing. In both caves it is somewhat irregular and deformed, but the
+familiar "trap" is easily recognized. The destruction of one of the
+Yellowstone geysers was, no doubt, due to the breaking of the S. One of
+the many reasons for establishing military control over the Park is said
+to have been the disastrous results following the introduction of a
+large quantity of soap into the geyser to cause a premature eruption.
+The impatience of the party was rewarded by an eruption accompanied by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span>
+explosions that shook the earth for a great distance, and the geyser has
+not been seen in action since.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Peal finds the theories advanced for the generation of steam
+unsatisfactory and insufficient, especially in the class of geysers
+having a long steam period. He says: (page 423)</p>
+
+<p>"The Castle Geyser differs from Old Faithful and the Bee Hive mainly in
+the fact that it has a long steam period, during which the steam pours
+out or is pushed from the geyser throat with great violence and a
+terrific noise. There appear to be only two possible explanations of
+this difference, viz., either an accumulation of immense volumes of
+steam in the Castle, or an instantaneous formation of steam throughout
+the length of the geyser tube. The former, to our mind, is untenable,
+because it seems impossible that the water, which is exhausted in
+fifteen minutes, should exert enough power to keep down the immense
+amount of steam that escapes for more than an hour. According to
+Bunsen's theory, it can be readily explained. The relief afforded by the
+first part of the eruptions allows the superheated water to rise
+rapidly, and before it can reach the top or orifice of the tube it is
+all converted into steam from the top downward with inconceivable
+rapidity, and must be forced out with the terrific violence which is
+noted in the case of the Castle.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">226</a></span> On page 208 we have expressed the
+opinion that it is the oldest geyser in the region, and it seems to us
+that a greater length in the tube, with a consequent greater supply of
+water, will account for the difference between the Castle and Old
+Faithful, the latter of which we consider one of the youngest geysers in
+the Upper Geyser Basin."</p>
+
+<p>A study of the Caves in connection with the active Geysers indicates
+that the theory he suggests and then rejects, is probably the true
+explanation of the difference between the two kinds of geysers. It seems
+that the length of the tube must necessarily have more effect on the
+height of the jet than on the generation of steam; as after an eruption
+the tube is hotter than at any other time and therefore the generation
+of steam in it should be less than usual, unless the fresh inflow of
+water was cold. Then if the storage cavities are broad but low, the
+steam cannot accumulate above the water; but when the pressure becomes
+sufficient to force a passage through the tube, the water and steam are
+expelled together until the pressure is exhausted. But if the storage
+chambers are vertical fissures, as Wind Cave illustrates, vast
+quantities of steam must accumulate above the water level in the main
+reservoirs before the pressure can become sufficient to expel the water
+in the tube, after which steam alone continues to rush out until the
+pressure is so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">227</a></span> relieved that it can no longer force a passage through
+the water remaining in the trap, when quiet is restored. By the constant
+addition of fresh water from the surface, by percolation or other usual
+ways of sinking, the necessary conditions for the generation of steam
+are maintained with surprising regularity.</p>
+
+<p>The differences in the shape and general arrangement of the cavities and
+tubes of the two caves, indicate that their action as geysers was very
+unlike. Wind Cave evidently sent a rather slender column to a great
+height, nearly perpendicular, and the water eruption was followed by a
+long steam period. Crystal Cave ejected a much larger jet more
+frequently, at a low angle of inclination, the eruption was sooner over,
+and was not followed by a steam period of any consequence.</p>
+
+<p>Thus it can be seen that the caves of the Black Hills prove the theories
+in regard to geyser action in Yellowstone Park, and those theories, in
+turn, prove the past history of the caves. The study of geyser action
+also shows that the conical or dome shape of some of the cave chambers
+is not due to the whirl of incoming floods, as in other regions, but to
+jets of water forced up from lower levels.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the finest geyser basin, and possible cave, ever in existence
+was destroyed when the Grand Ca&ntilde;on of the Yellowstone became a ca&ntilde;on.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">228</a></span>
+Evidences of the former conditions in control of this gorgeously
+brilliant scene are neither wanting nor doubtful. Steam constantly
+issues from numerous small vents in the ca&ntilde;on walls, and a field glass
+reveals miniature geysers in action down in the depth of the ca&ntilde;on,
+nearly half a mile below the top of the wall; while the entire ca&ntilde;on
+shows, in both the color and character of its rocks, that chemical
+agencies have wrought changes here that have not been effected in other
+exposures of similar nature. It seems not improbable that the relation
+of Yellowstone River to the Grand Ca&ntilde;on was the same as, at the present
+time, is that of the Firehole to the Upper, Middle, and Lower Geyser
+Basins: and that an explosion of great force was followed by a general
+collapse instead of the usual eruption of one of the grandest geysers;
+one result being the sudden precipitation of the river into a new,
+beautiful, and totally unexpected channel. After its great leap of two
+hundred and ninety-seven<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">6</a> feet at the Lower Fall, the river flows in a
+brilliant, narrow line of emerald green, broken by the white foam of
+frequent cascades, between magnificent walls of yellow, white, pink, and
+red of most vivid hues.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">6</span></a> Measurement by the Hayden Party.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS***</p>
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@@ -0,0 +1,5585 @@
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills,
+by Luella Agnes Owen
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Cave Regions of the Ozarks and Black Hills
+
+
+Author: Luella Agnes Owen
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 19, 2005  [eBook #17354]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND
+BLACK HILLS***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Stacy Brown Thellend and the Project Gutenberg Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team (https://www.pgdp.net/)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 17354-h.htm or 17354-h.zip:
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/7/3/5/17354/17354-h/17354-h.htm)
+      or
+      (https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/7/3/5/17354/17354-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS
+
+by
+
+LUELLA AGNES OWEN.
+
+Membre titulaire de la Societe de Speleologie, and
+Fellow of the American Geographical Society.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Entrance To Marble Cave. Page 25.]
+
+
+
+
+
+Cincinnati.
+The Editor Publishing Co.
+
+1898.
+
+
+
+
+The illustrations for this volume are from photographs by the following
+artists:
+
+The Views of Marble Cave, by Stone & De Groff, Warrensburg, Missouri.
+
+The Tower of Babel, The Chimes, The Knife Blade, The Needle, The Bridal
+Veil, by Meddaugh, of Leadville, So. Dakota.
+
+Top of Glacier, by L.W. Marble, Wind Cave, So. Dakota.
+
+White Onyx Masses, Fairies' Palace, by J.W. Pike, Hot Springs, So.
+Dakota.
+
+The Wilderness Pinery, by D. Benton Miller, Alton, Missouri.
+
+Approaching Deadwood, by H.R. Locke & Co., Deadwood, So. Dakota.
+
+Copyrighted
+The Editor Publishing Company.
+1898.
+
+
+
+
+TO
+MY MOTHER
+THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY
+DEDICATED.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER.                              PAGE.
+
+   I A General View                    1
+
+  II Marble Cave                      25
+
+ III Marble Cave Continued            43
+
+  IV Fairy Cave and Powell Cave       58
+
+   V Other Stone County Caves         73
+
+  VI Oregon County Caves              82
+
+ VII The Grand Gulf                   95
+
+VIII The Black Hills and Bad Lands   103
+
+  IX Wind Cave                       113
+
+   X Wind Cave Continued             127
+
+  XI   "    "       "                141
+
+ XII   "    "   Concluded            151
+
+XIII The Onyx Caves                  162
+
+ XIV Crystal Cave                    175
+
+  XV    "     "   Concluded          183
+
+ XVI Conclusion                      211
+
+
+
+
+Cave Regions of
+
+THE OZARKS AND BLACK HILLS.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+A GENERAL VIEW.
+
+    "O'er mountains bright with snow and light,
+    We crystal hunters speed along,
+    While grots, and caves, and icy waves,
+    Each instant echo to our song;
+    And when we meet with stores of gems
+    We grudge not kings their diadems."
+                        --_Thomas Moore._
+
+
+The southern half of the State of Missouri, and the Black Hills of South
+Dakota, offer exceptionally delightful regions for the study of caves,
+or Speleology as it has been named, and the sister sciences of geology
+and geography at the same time. In fact it is impossible to study either
+without giving attention to the other two, and therefore, instead of
+being separate sciences, they are the three branches of a great
+scientific trinity.
+
+The regions here referred to enjoy the advantage, and at the same time
+suffer the disadvantage, of being comparatively little known to the ever
+restless tide of tourists who naturally hail with pleasure the
+announcement that some easily accessible, and thoroughly charming spot,
+has escaped their attention altogether, with a marvelous store of
+attractions which are both extremely old and wholly new.
+
+Each of these regions has a peculiar geological history not repeated in
+any other portions of the earth's surface: each is blessed with its own
+peculiar style of beautiful scenery: and each vies with the other and
+all the world besides for the supremacy of its truly wonderful caves.
+Yet it should be well understood that the claims are not based on an
+unworthy spirit of rivalry, nor any desire to deny the greatness and
+beauty of already famous members of the Cave family. It is simply an
+announcement that the family is much larger than has been generally
+supposed, and the more recently presented members worthy of the full
+measure of distinguished honors.
+
+The geological authorities of both states have for many years mentioned
+the beauty and importance of these regions, and urged their claims to
+public attention, but have been prevented, by the pressure of other
+duties, from giving to the caves such careful study and full reports as
+they deserve, as it would have been a pleasure to give, and as has been
+possible in states of less extent where the general work of the
+department is more advanced, and the volume of tourist travel created an
+early demand for scientific explanation.
+
+Without any great difficulty we can understand the process of cave
+excavation by the action of percolating acidulated water on the
+limestone, and its subsequent removal as the volume of surface drainage
+diverted to the new channel gradually increased. But it is not so easy
+to offer a reason for the varied forms with which the caves are
+afterwards decorated. Why is it the charmed waters do not leave the
+evidence of their slow passage only in plain surfaces of varying widths,
+and the stalactites and stalagmites whose formation we can readily
+account for? And why do not the deposits take the same forms in all
+caves with only such variations as would naturally result from
+differences in topography? The law is written, but in unfamiliar
+characters that render our reading slow and uncertain. Yet it is
+conspicuously noticeable that those caves showing the most delicately
+fragile and wonderfully varied forms of decoration are those traversed
+by the most sweeping and changeable, or even reversible, currents of
+air; which might lead to the conclusion that the moisture is sprayed or
+converted into a light, misty vapor, and then deposited in exactly the
+same manner as the beautiful frost-work at Niagara: the direction and
+force of the current determining the location of the frail deposits.
+
+Since the largest and most important caves occur in limestone, a little
+special attention to the cause of their occurrence there may serve to
+show that although speleology has only recently received its name and
+been elevated to the rank of a separate and independent science, it is
+one of the earth's ancient institutions.
+
+Our geologists, who have unearthed many secrets not dreamed of even in
+Humboldt's "good phylosopy," have settled the question of how the
+different kinds of caves were formed, according to the character of
+rocks they are in, or their location and depth, and the natural agencies
+to whose action they show signs of having been subjected.
+
+Dr. H.C. Hovey, in his "Celebrated American Caverns," says: "In visiting
+caves of large extent, one is at first inclined to regard the long
+halls, huge rifts, deep pits and lofty domes, as evidences of great
+convulsions of nature, whereby the earth has been violently rent
+asunder. But, while mechanical forces have had their share in the work,
+as has been shown, the main agent in every case has been the
+comparatively gentle, invisible gas known as carbonic acid. This is
+generated by the decay of animal and vegetable substances, and is to a
+considerable degree soluble in water. Under ordinary circumstances one
+measure of water will absorb one measure of carbonic acid; and the eye
+will detect no difference in its appearance. Under pressure the power of
+absorption is rapidly increased, until the water thus surcharged has an
+acid taste, and effervesces on flowing from the earth, as in Saratoga
+water.
+
+"Rain-water, falling amid leaves and grass, and sinking into the soil,
+absorbs large quantities of carbonic acid. On reaching the underlying
+limestone, the latter is instantly attacked by the acidulated water in
+which it is dissolved and carried away.
+
+"It is agreed among geologists, amazing as the statement may seem, that
+the immense caverns of Virginia, Kentucky and Indiana, including Mammoth
+Cave itself (the largest of all), were eaten out of the solid mass of
+limestone by the slow, patient, but irresistible action of acidulated
+water."
+
+Professor N.S. Shaler says: "The existence of deep caverns is a sign
+that the region has long been above the sea."
+
+Through the kindness of Professor C.J. Norwood, Chief Inspector and
+Curator of the Geological Department of Kentucky, it is possible to
+quote the first official report made on the caves of that state and
+published in 1856, in Volume I., Kentucky Geological Survey Reports.
+Dr. Norwood says: "Referring to the 'Subcarboniferous Limestone' (now
+known as the St. Louis group of the Mississippian series), Dr. Owen
+says: 'The southern belt of this formation is wonderfully cavernous,
+especially in its upper beds, which being more argillaceous, and
+impregnated with earths and alkalies, are disposed to produce salts,
+which oozing through the pores of the stone effloresce on its surface,
+and thus tend to disintegrate and scale off, independent of the solvent
+effects of the carbonated water. Beneath overhanging ledges of
+limestone, quantities of fine earthy rubbish can be seen, weathered off
+from such causes. In these I have detected sulphate of lime, sulphate of
+magnesia, nitrate of lime, and occasionally sulphate of soda. The
+tendency which some calcareous rocks have to produce nitrate of lime is,
+probably, one of the greatest causes of disintegration.'"
+
+"Most extensive subterranean areas thus have been excavated or
+undermined in Edmonson, Hart, Grayson, Butler, Logan, Todd, Christian
+and Trig. In the vicinity of Green River, in the first of these
+counties, the known avenues of the Mammoth Cave amount to two hundred
+and twenty-three, the united length of the whole being estimated, by
+those best acquainted with the Cave, at one hundred and fifty miles; say
+that the average width and height of these passages amount to seven
+yards each way, which is perhaps near the truth; this would give upwards
+of twelve million cubic yards of cavernous space which has been
+excavated through the agency of calcareous waters and atmospheric
+vicissitudes."
+
+Page 169: "On the south side of Green River the platform of limestone
+forming the descent into Mammoth Cave is two hundred and thirty-two feet
+above Green River."
+
+"The entrance to the cave, being thirty-eight feet lower than this bed
+of limestone, is one hundred and ninety-four feet above Green River. In
+the above two hundred and thirty-two feet there are several heavy masses
+of sandstone, viz.: at one hundred and twenty-five, one hundred and
+forty-five, one hundred and fifty, one hundred and sixty and two hundred
+and fifteen feet, but it is probable that most of these have tumbled
+from higher positions in the hill, as no alterations of sandstone have
+been observed at these levels in the cave. From an elevation of from two
+hundred and forty to two hundred and fifty feet, the prevalent rock is
+sandstone without pebbles, which can be seen extending up to three
+hundred and twelve feet to the foundation of the Cave Hotel. The united
+thickness of the limestone beds on this part of Green River, is about
+two hundred and thirty feet, capped with eighty feet of sandstone.
+About midway of the section on this part of Green River, are limestones
+of an obscure oolitic structure, but no true oolite was observed. Many
+of these limestones are of such composition as to be acted on freely by
+the elements of the atmosphere, which, in the form of nitric acid,
+combine with the earthy and alkaline bases of calcareous rock, and give
+rise to the formation of nitrates with the liberation of carbonic acid;
+hence the disintegrated rubbish of the caves yields nitrate of potash
+after being treated with the ley of ashes and subsequent evaporation of
+the saline lixivium. The wonderfully cavernous character of the
+subcarboniferous limestones of the Green River valley, and, indeed, of
+these particular members of the subcarboniferous group throughout a
+great part of its range in Kentucky and Indiana, is due in a great
+measure to this cause, together with the solvent and eroding effects of
+water charged with carbonic acid. The 'rock-houses' frequently
+encountered both in this formation and in the limestones of Silurian
+date, are produced by similar causes; the more easily disintegrated beds
+gradually crumbling away, while the more durable remain in overhanging
+ledges. By the oxidation of other elements, sulphates of oxide of iron
+and alkalies result, which, by double decomposition, with carbonate of
+lime, give rise to the formation of gypsums which appears in the form of
+rosettes, festoons and various other imitative forms on the walls and
+ceilings of the caves. Crystallizations of sulphate of soda and sulphate
+of magnesia are not uncommon, both in some of the caves and in sheltered
+situations under shelving rocks."
+
+The explanations thus given of the excavation and subsequent refilling
+and decoration of the limestone caves of Kentucky and Indiana apply
+equally well to those of other states; but it is to be remembered that
+at the time of Dr. Owen's report, onyx, the most beautiful and valuable
+of dripstones, had not yet been discovered in the United States; while
+now especially fine deposits are known in California, Utah, Missouri,
+South Dakota and Arkansas; the Missouri supply being exceptionally
+valuable on account of the marvelous delicacy and beauty of its
+coloring; nor can it soon be exhausted, as deposits have been found in
+eight counties and further exploration will no doubt discover more.
+
+Concerning the Subcarboniferous, or Mississippian Series in Part I.,
+Vol. IV., Missouri Geological Survey, Dr. C.R. Keyes says: "In the great
+interior basin of the Mississippi the basal series is exposed more or
+less continuously over broad areas, extending from northern Iowa to
+Alabama, and from Ohio to Mexico."
+
+While this broadly extended series of limestone is honey-combed in many
+places and all directions by wonderful caverns, those of the Ozark
+regions in Missouri, although comparatively little known, are well worth
+knowing, and are possibly the most ancient limestone caves in the world.
+Of the region in which they occur, Dr. Keyes, in the volume last quoted,
+says: "The chief typographical feature of the state has long been known
+in the Ozark uplift, a broad plateau with gentle quaquaversal slopes
+rising to a height of more than one thousand five hundred feet above
+mean tide, and extending almost entirely across the southern part of the
+district. On all sides the borders of this highland area are deeply
+grooved by numberless streams flowing in narrow gorges. Against its
+nucleus of very ancient granites and porphyries the Ozark series of
+magnesian limestone was laid down. Then the area occupied by these rocks
+was elevated, and around its margins were deposited successively the
+other members of the Paleozoic. The Ozark region was thus the first land
+to appear within the borders of the present state of Missouri." He
+further says: "Although it has long been known that the Magnesian
+Limestones are older than the Trenton, and that they lie immediately
+upon and against the Archaean crystallines unconformably, their exact
+geological age has always remained unsettled. There seems to be but
+little doubt, however, that part of the series is equivalent to the
+Calciferous of other regions. It is also pretty well determined that
+certain of the lower beds, all below the 'Saccharoidal' Sandstone
+perhaps, are representatives of the Upper Cambrian or Potsdam. These
+conclusions appear well grounded both upon stratigraphical and faunal
+evidence. The rocks of the Ozark region have not as yet received the
+necessary detailed study to enable the several lines of demarkation to
+be drawn with certainty. This investigation is now being carried on as
+rapidly as possible, and promises very satisfactory and interesting
+results in the near future."
+
+"The early geological reports represent the Magnesian Limestone series
+as made up of seven members. Following Swallow, these may be briefly
+described in the present connection. Beginning at the top, they are:
+
+First Magnesian Limestone.
+First, or Saccharoidal Sandstone.
+Second Magnesian Limestone.
+Second Sandstone.
+Third Magnesian Limestone.
+Third Sandstone.
+Fourth Limestone."
+
+"The Fourth" Magnesian Limestone, or lowest number of the Ozark series
+recognized, has its typical exposures along the Niangua and Osage rivers
+in Morgan and Camden counties.
+
+Professor Swallow, in his Missouri Geological Survey Reports I. and II.,
+1853 and 1854, says: "Caves, natural bridges and subterranean streams
+occur in the valley of the Osage and its tributaries." The same
+authority of forty years ago also mentions that "Some of the grandest
+scenery in the State is produced by the high castellated and mural
+bluffs of this (Third Magnesian Limestone) Formation, on the Niangua and
+the Osage." Another reference to the scenery on these rivers describes
+it as "Wild and grand, beautiful and unique;" with "gaudy-colored
+bluffs." In the section on building materials he remarks: "One of the
+most desirable of the Missouri marbles is in the Third Magnesian
+Limestone on the Niangua. It is fine-grained, crystalline,
+silico-magnesian limestone of a light drab, slightly tinged with
+peach-blossom, and beautifully clouded with the same hue or flesh color.
+It is twenty feet thick and crops out in the bluffs. This marble is
+rarely surpassed in the qualities which fit it for ornamental
+architecture."
+
+The Ozarks in the extreme southern portion of the state are even less
+known to the world, but the scenery is grand, the climate delightful,
+and the caves worthy of a visit for themselves alone. The State of
+Missouri being one third larger than England, and of equal size to
+Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and Denmark combined, it is not surprising
+that interesting discoveries are still to be expected.
+
+The climate is so varied on account of the range in latitude and
+altitude, and the natural resources are so great, the claim has been
+made that if the State were surrounded by an impassable wall, its
+citizens need not be deprived of any article necessary to a refined and
+luxurious mode of living: and according to Mr. Henry Gannett in "The
+Building of a Nation," the population in 1890 was 73.42 per cent. native
+whites of native parents, the colored a little less than 6 per cent.,
+and nearly two-thirds of the balance, native born of parents, one or
+both of whom were foreign.
+
+Although the Ozark region has not yet received sufficient attention to
+dull its charm for the explorer, the fact has been established that its
+earliest sedimentary rocks are of the Cambrian Age and still occupy
+mainly the position in which they were originally deposited. Therefore
+we need not be surprised to discover that some, at least, of the
+excavations are proportionately ancient; and that the Natural Bridges
+are the last remaining positive evidence of their former existence and
+final collapse. That the Natural Bridges of Missouri mark the
+destruction of more ancient caves than the one preserved to geological
+history by Virginia's grand attraction, seems quite evident. The greater
+age of the rocks indicates the possibility of earlier excavation while
+their undisturbed position suggests that destruction resulted, not from
+violent earth movement, but from the slow action of agencies requiring
+long periods of time.
+
+Before proceeding to a discussion of the caves visited personally for
+the gratification of private interest, it is desirable to know what
+attention has been given to the subject, incidentally, in the course of
+regular official duty on the Missouri Geological Survey.
+
+
+CAVES DESCRIBED IN THE STATE REPORTS.
+
+Although many unknown caves must yet be discovered in the imperfectly
+explored portions of the vast Ozark forests, these finds are already so
+numerous as to seldom attract attention according to their just
+desserts.
+
+One of the comparatively recent of these discoveries is Crystal Cave, at
+Joplin, described on page 566, Vol. VII., Missouri Geological Survey
+Report 1894.[1] It was opened in the lower workings of a shaft of the
+Empire Zinc Company, and "The entire surface of the cave, top, sides and
+bottom, is lined with calcite crystals, so closely packed together as
+to form a continuous sheet and most of them of great size, and well
+formed faces. Scalenohedra as much as two feet long are sometimes seen,
+and others a foot or more in length are common. Planes or crystal
+ghosts, sometimes with pyrite crystals, marking stages of growth in the
+calcite crystals, are often distinguishable. The entire absence of
+anything like stalactites is noticeable, and together with the presence
+of the crystals, show that the cave was completely filled with water
+during their growth." In the same volume, all those counties in the
+extreme southwest corner of the state, whose geological age has not
+heretofore been considered positively determined, are mapped as Lower
+Carboniferous, and Lower Silurian, with the Coal Measures covering
+portions of Barton and Jasper and appearing in a few small, scattered
+spots in Dade, Polk, Green and Christian counties, and some scanty lines
+of Devonian fringing the edges of the Silurian in Barton and McDonald.
+
+Other State reports make mention of many caves and fine springs, and
+also several natural bridges worthy of special notice. In Mr. G.C.
+Broadhead's report for 1873-1874, he gives a short but interesting
+chapter on caves and water supplies, in which he says that "Caves occur
+in the Third Magnesian Limestone, Saccharoidal Sandstone, Trenton,
+Lithographic, Encrinital and St. Louis Limestone."
+
+"In Eastern and Northeast Missouri there have not been found many large
+caves in the Encrinital Limestone, but the lower beds of this formation
+in Southwest Missouri often enclose very large caverns; among the latter
+may be included the caves of Green County with some in Christian and
+McDonald. Those in McDonald I have not seen, but they are reported to be
+very extensive and probably are situated in the Encrinital Limestone."
+
+Under the head of "Special Descriptions" he says: "On Sac River, in the
+north part of Green County, we find a cave with two entrances, one at
+the foot of a hill, opening toward Sac River, forty-five feet high and
+eighty feet wide. The other entrance is from the hill-top, one hundred
+and fifty feet back from the face of the bluff. These two passages
+unite. The exact dimensions of the cave are not known, but there are
+several beautiful and large rooms lined with stalactites and stalagmites
+which often assume both beautiful and grotesque life-like forms. The
+cave has been explored for several hundred yards, showing the formations
+to be thick silicious beds of the Lower Carboniferous formations."
+
+"Knox cave, in Green County, is said to be of large dimensions. I have
+not seen it, but some of its stalactites are quite handsome."
+
+"Wilson's Creek sinks beneath the Limestone and appears again below."
+
+"There are several caves near Ozark, Christian County, which issue from
+the same formation as those in Green County. On a branch of Finly Creek
+a stream disappears in a sink, appearing again three-quarters of a mile
+southeast through an opening sixty feet high by ninety-eight feet wide.
+Up stream the cave continues this size for a hundred yards and then
+decreases in size, and for the next quarter of a mile further it is
+generally ten by fourteen feet wide. A very clear, cool stream passes
+out, in which by careful search crawfish without eyes can be found."
+
+"There is another cave a few miles south of Ozark, and another ten miles
+southeast occurs in the Magnesian Limestone."
+
+"In Boone County there are several caves in the Encrinital Limestone.
+Conner's, the largest, is said to have been explored for a distance of
+eight miles."
+
+"In Pike and Lincoln there are several small caves occurring in the
+upper beds of Trenton Limestone, which are often very cavernous. On
+Sulphur Fork of Cuivre, there is a cave and Natural Bridge, to which
+parties for pleasure often resort. The bridge is tubular with twenty
+feet between the walls, and is one hundred feet long."
+
+"At J.P. Fisher's on Spencer Creek, Ralls County, there is a cave having
+an entrance of ninety feet wide by twenty feet high. The Lower Trenton
+beds occupy the floor, with the upper cavernous beds above. On the
+bluff, at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards back, there is a
+sink-hole which communicates with the cave. Within the cave is a cool,
+clear spring of water, and Mr. F. said he could keep meat fresh there
+for six weeks during midsummer."
+
+"The Third Magnesian Limestone which occupies such a large portion of
+Southwest Missouri, often contains very large caves. One of them, known
+as Friede's cave, is six or eight miles Northwest of Rolla, on Cave
+Spring Creek."
+
+"It is said to have been explored for several miles, but I only passed
+in a few hundred yards. The stalactites here are very beautiful,
+assuming the structure of satin spar. A very clear stream of water
+issues out. West of the Gasconade, on Clifty Creek, is a remarkable
+Natural Bridge which I have elsewhere described in Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 16."
+
+"Mr. Meek speaks of a large and interesting cave on Tavern Creek, in
+Miller County. Dr. Shumard estimates a cave on Bryant's Fork, in Ozark
+County, to be a mile and a half long."
+
+This description of Dr. Shumard's is in the Geological Survey of
+Missouri, 1855-71, page 196, where he says:
+
+"The entrance is thirty-five feet wide and thirty feet high, and is
+situated at the foot of a perpendicular cliff, and far above the
+water-level of Bryant. Just within the entrance it expands to sixty or
+seventy feet, with a height of about fifty feet; and this part of the
+cave has been used by the citizens of the county as a place for holding
+camp-meeting. I estimated its length at not far short of one mile and a
+half. The main passage is in general quite spacious, the roof elevated,
+and the floor tolerably level, but often wet and miry. For some distance
+beyond the entrance there is not much to attract attention; but as we
+proceed, at the far extremity the chambers are quite as picturesque as
+the most noted of the well-known Mammoth Cave. The ceilings, sides and
+floor are adorned with a multitude of stalactites and stalagmites
+arranged in fanciful combinations, and assuming a variety of fantastic
+and beautiful forms."
+
+Many of these caves contain niter, which occurs as a mineral and not as
+evidence of former animal occupation, it being found in the form of
+effervescenses on the walls. Dr. Shumard mentions several of this
+character in Pulaski County, the most noted being Niter Cave, in the
+Third Magnesian Limestone, with a wide entrance thirty feet above the
+level of the Gasconade. On page 201, he also gives a charming
+description of one of the immense springs that are numerous in this
+region and that I have never seen elsewhere. He says:
+
+"Ozark County is bountifully supplied with springs of the finest water,
+and some of them of remarkably large size. The largest one is situated
+near the North Fork, in T. 24, R. 11 W., Sec. 32, and is known under the
+name of the Double Spring. It issues from near the base of a bluff of
+Sandstone and Magnesian Limestone, a few feet above the level of the
+North Fork. This spring discharges an immense volume of water, which is
+divided by a huge mass of Sandstone into two streams, with swift
+currents flowing in opposite directions to join the North Fork about one
+hundred and fifty yards distant from the spring. I estimated the width
+of these streams at not less than fifty yards. They are separated from
+the North Fork by a pretty wooded island one hundred yards long. The
+upper stream affords a good mill-site. I am informed that the quantity
+of water discharged by this magnificent spring is not materially
+diminished during the dryest seasons of the year. The temperature of the
+water measured at the edge of the spring, was found to be 56 deg.; the
+temperature of the air at the same time, 59 deg. Other springs of
+considerable magnitude occur in various portions of the county, giving
+rise to beautiful and limpid streams."
+
+The descriptions of the Natural Bridge and Friede's cave, near Rolla,
+previously referred to as being on page 16 of the same volume, are as
+follows:
+
+"On Clifty Creek found the chert bed of Sec. 21-5 occurring about sixty
+feet from the top of the Third Magnesian Limestone, with a road passing
+over its upper surface, presenting it very favorably for observation. It
+seemed here to be broken by vertical cracks into large rhomboidal
+blocks. Further up this creek in a wild and secluded spot, observed a
+Natural Bridge with six feet of this chert bed at its base, and
+Silicious Magnesian Limestone above. The span of this bridge is about
+thirty feet, an elevation of opening about fifteen feet above the water,
+the thickness of the rock above is about twelve feet, and width on top
+about fifteen feet. Two small streams come together, one from the west
+and another from the south-west. A point of the bluff on the south-west
+fork spans the northern fork, and terminates about sixty feet beyond in
+a sharp point; a few large masses of rock lie near the termination of
+the promontory, and fifty feet beyond, the bluffs of the opposite hills
+rise abruptly from the bottoms. The bluffs, both above and below, are
+very precipitous, the middle and lower beds of the Third Magnesian
+Limestone forming perpendicular escarpments, frequently studded with
+cedar, some occurring on top of the bridge. A perfectly clear stream of
+water courses through this valley. The bottoms near are overspread with
+a dense growth of trees and vines, among which latter I noticed the
+Muscadine grape. The valley at this part being shut in by its
+perpendicular cliffs with not a path to guide the traveler through the
+dense thickets, is wildly picturesque and romantic in its loneliness."
+
+Of the cave he says: "This cave is a quarter of a mile east of Cave
+Spring Creek, and has a wide and elevated entrance; passing into it a
+hundred yards or more, the passage narrows, and in order to go further a
+stream of water has frequently to be waded through; this passage has
+been followed by some persons several miles without finding any object
+of interest; but a few hundred yards from the entrance, by diverging to
+the right, we enter a large chamber, studded with stalactites and
+stalagmites, many uniting and forming solid columns of support. Many of
+these are very beautiful, and often as white as alabaster. There are
+other large rooms, but they possess no peculiar interest. Found large
+deposits of earth on the floor having a saline taste."
+
+Of the extensive pine forests in Ozark County, he says: "The size and
+quality of the timber will compare favorably with that of the
+celebrated pineries of Wisconsin and Minnesota."
+
+In several other counties the pine is equally good, and other valuable
+timber everywhere abundant, although in a school geography published in
+1838, the following descriptions of this region occur:
+
+"The lowlands of the Mississippi are bounded by the region of the Ozark
+Mountains. With the exception of the alluvial tracts on the borders of
+the streams, it is extremely hilly and broken. The mountains rise from
+eight hundred to eighteen hundred feet above the streams, with rounded
+summits and often perpendicular cliffs, and have a rocky surface, which
+admits only a scanty growth of timber." * *
+
+"Missouri is generally a region of prairies and table lands, much of
+which, as already described, is almost destitute of timber and water. It
+is crossed by the Ozark Mountains, which form a rugged tract of
+considerable extent. Earthquakes are not infrequent in some parts of
+this state. The soil is not generally productive."
+
+A comparison of these curious views with the latest official reports is
+highly amusing, as well as suggestive that early impressions are liable
+to require modification.
+
+In addition to the wonderful springs of pure water, there are numerous
+fine mineral springs, among which are a number of Epsom salt springs.
+At Jacksonville, in Randolph County, there is a large mineral spring
+from which it is said an over-heated horse may drink all he will without
+injury. Epsom-salts, or Epsomite, frequently occurs, as does the Niter,
+in a crystalline form of the pure mineral, as an efflorescence on rocks
+in many of the caves and in other sheltered positions.
+
+[Illustration: The Surveyed Portions of Marble Cave Stone County
+Missouri
+
+Surveyed and Plotted by Fred Prince. 1894
+
+Scale of 100 feet]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Lead and Zinc. Prof. C.R. Keyes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+MARBLE CAVE.
+
+
+Marble Cave, which is the finest yet explored in Missouri, is southeast
+of the center of Stone County, a short distance north of the picturesque
+White River. The nearest station is Marionville on the St. Louis and San
+Francisco railroad, and the drive of forty miles is delightful, but can
+be divided, into two of twenty each by a stop at Galena. The road, for
+the most part, is naturally macadamized and is through a most charming
+country whose roughness and beauty increase together as the journey
+advances. At first it winds along fertile valleys between wooded hills,
+crossing many times a shallow stream of water so clear as to afford no
+concealment for an occasional water-moccasin, whose bite is said to be
+not poisonous if inflicted under water, and which must be true because
+the horses showed not the least uneasiness.
+
+The second week in May found the vegetation in its summer beauty;
+strawberries were ripe, and the weather without a fault.
+
+Galena is pleasantly situated on the hills overlooking the James River,
+and is entirely invisible from the road by which it is approached until
+a slight curve in the line of ascent ends the first half of the journey
+with surprising suddenness. In the immediate vicinity there are several
+small caves which are worthy of attention and will be described later
+on.
+
+To properly picture the twenty miles of changing and charming views
+between Galena and Marble Cave would require the light and skillful
+touch of a special artist gifted with a tangible perception of
+atmospheric values. Gradually the road forsakes the pretty valleys with
+their fields and streams, to take the summit of the hills and then be
+known as the "Ridge Road," which affords a wide range of vision not
+previously enjoyed, presenting scenes not to be found reproduced
+elsewhere with any degree of exactness. Looking into the depth of the
+forest as it slopes away on either side, the impression is of a
+magnificent park, undefaced by what are called improvements. This effect
+is produced by the scarcity, or entire absence of underbrush, and a
+beautiful surface covering of grasses or flowering plants of all kinds
+and colors, varied here and there with masses of ferns of unusual size
+and delicate beauty. The most unexpected and lavish feature of the rich
+display is the many miles of fragrant honeysuckle that grows only
+eighteen inches high in the forest shade, but if transplanted to a sunny
+spot develops into the familiar vine. The most beautiful portion of
+all this is called The Wilderness, and seems designed for a National
+Park. Such a park reserve, even if very small, could not fail to be a
+lasting pleasure, since it would be more accessible to large centers of
+population than other reserves, and its most delightful seasons are
+spring and autumn when the Yellowstone is under snow.
+
+[Illustration: A Mill-Site Near Marble Cave.]
+
+The distant view obtained through open spaces is an undulating forest in
+all directions, being apparently both trackless and endless. The great
+variety of greens observed in the foliage blends in the distance into
+one dark shade, then changes to dark blue, which gradually fades out to
+a hazy uncertainty where it is lost at the sky-line.
+
+As long ago as 1853, the variety and abundance of the natural growth of
+fruits throughout the Ozarks was observed by Professor Swallow, who then
+advised the planting of vines.
+
+Beyond the Wilderness is the Marble Cave property and the entrance to
+the Cave is through a large sink-hole in the top of Roark Mountain. This
+hole is said to be about two hundred feet long, one hundred feet wide
+and thirty-five feet deep. It is shaped like a great oblong bowl with
+sloping sides, divided irregularly near the middle, and having the
+bottom broken out in a jagged way that is very handsome and gives an
+ample support to the growth of ferns, wild roses, and other vegetation
+with which it is abundantly decorated. About half of the descent into
+the basin is accomplished by scrambling down the roughly broken rocks,
+and the balance by a broad wooden stairway ending at a narrow platform
+that supports the locked gate.
+
+For kind and valuable assistance rendered to insure the success and
+pleasure of the visit to the wonderful cave, which they regard with
+affection and pride, very cordial thanks are due to Capt. T.S. Powell,
+former manager, his son, Mr. Will Powell, the first guide, and Mr. Fred
+Prince, who has made the only official survey and map. It may be stated
+here that the survey and map are far from complete, and many known
+passages have never yet been entered.
+
+Being the first visiting party of the season, certain disadvantages were
+encountered in a great accumulation of wet clay and rubbish, washed in
+by the rains since the previous summer; but the gate was opened with
+considerable effort, and slowly and cautiously we descended the
+slippery, clay-banked stairs to the immense mound of debris forty-five
+feet below the gate, to behold, at last, the grandeur of the Auditorium.
+
+The magnificence of that one chamber should give to Marble Cave a
+world-wide fame even if there were nothing more beyond. The blue-gray
+limestone walls have a greater charm than those of an open canon, owing
+to the fact that they sweep away from any given point in long, true
+curves to form an elliptical chamber three hundred and fifty feet long
+by one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, with the vault above showing
+absolute perfection of arch, and measuring, by the survey, from its
+lowest to its highest point, one hundred and ninety-five feet. These
+measurements are said to be indisputably correct, and if so, the
+Auditorium of Marble Cave is the largest unsupported, perfect arch in
+the world; it being one hundred feet longer than the famous Mormon
+Tabernacle at Salt Lake City. In addition to the artistic superiority of
+architectural form, its acoustic properties having been tested, it is
+found to be truly an auditorium. The curving walls and pure atmosphere
+combine to aid the voice, and carry its softest tones with marvelous
+distinctness to every portion of the immense inclosed space. As a
+concert hall its capacity has been tested by musicians who are said to
+have been enthusiastic over the success of their experiments. Several
+years ago a piano was lowered into the cave for use on a special
+occasion, and still occupies a position on the dancing platform, where
+it will probably remain indefinitely under the scant protection of a
+small canvas tent.
+
+The chief ornament of the Auditorium is the White Throne, a stalagmitic
+mass that when viewed from the stairway appears to rest solidly against
+the most distant wall, and looks so small an object in that vast space
+as to render a realization of its actual measurement impossible. The
+height of the Throne is sixty-five feet and the girth two hundred. It is
+a mass of dripstone resting on a limestone base reserved from the
+ancient excavation to receive it, and on careful inspection the
+perpendicular lines, observed on the front, are found to be a set of
+rather large organ pipes. A fresh fracture shows the Throne to be a most
+beautiful white and gold onyx. The outer surface has now received a thin
+coating of yellow clay which was, of course, regretted, but later
+observations on onyx building reveals the pleasing fact that if the
+crystal-bearing waters continue to drip, the yellow clay will supply the
+coloring matter for a golden band of crystal.
+
+The Throne is hollow and has a natural opening in one side by which it
+may be entered, but the space within is too limited to invite a lengthy
+stay. That portion of the outside which is nearest the wall is formed
+with sufficient irregularity of outline to admit of an ascent to the
+top, and the view obtained is well worth the difficult scramble up and
+the apprehensive slide down. Being raised so high above all objects that
+divide attention or in some degree obstruct the view, permits a freedom
+of outlook that sensibly increases the appreciation of the vastness of
+the enclosed chamber and its enclosing walls. Efforts to establish the
+age of the deposit by observations on the yearly growth, would afford
+little satisfaction, for the obvious reason that conditions governing
+the growth are dependent, in a measure, on each season's vegetation.
+Deposit began, of course, after the erosion of the chamber ceased, and
+therefore represents only a fraction of the age of the cave itself.
+About thirty feet west of the White Throne and against the wall, stands
+the next onyx attraction in the form of a beautiful fluted column nearly
+twenty feet high, tapering up from a base three feet in diameter, and
+known as the Spring Room Sentinel, because the Spring of Youth is just
+behind it although not directly connected with the Auditorium; it being
+the first chamber on the left in Total Depravity Passage, a wet and
+dangerous way of which next to nothing is known, but the entrance to
+which is a fine arch a few feet west of the Sentinel. The Spring of
+Youth is reached by climbing through a window-like opening, and is very
+small, very wet, very cold, and very beautiful. It is not more than ten
+feet high nor six in its greatest length and breadth, but every inch of
+its irregular surface is composed of dripstone of a bright yellowish-red
+and colorless crystal; and down the glittering walls trickles clear and
+almost ice-cold water, to the onyx floor where it is caught and held in
+a marvelous fluted bowl of its own manufacture. This is said to be the
+gem of the whole cave and seems to have been placed where it is for the
+consolation of those who are unable to enjoy the peculiar grandeur of
+the Auditorium, and leave it as some actually are said to do, with a
+sense of disappointment, because it is not the gleaming white hall of
+marble which some writers for reputable journals have allowed their
+imaginations to create.
+
+In winter the Spring of Youth Room takes on a complete coating of ice,
+with icicles of all sizes hanging from the ceiling and projections. The
+effect is described as being wonderfully beautiful.
+
+Further down Total Depravity Passage we were not urged to go, because at
+that season of the year it is wet and difficult, without any sufficient
+promise of a brilliant compensation for the achievement of such a
+journey. But the Spring of Youth Room, or as it is generally called, the
+Spring Room, is more than ample justification for the existence of the
+passage, and would still be if that passage were several miles in length
+and the attraction located at the most distant limit.
+
+[Illustration: Wall in Spring Room. Page 32.]
+
+The various passages in Marble Cave are by no means alike or even
+similar; some having been opened by the action of water assisted only by
+acid carried in solution; while others are the unmistakable crevices of
+earthquake origin, afterwards enlarged, or perhaps only remodeled, as we
+might say, by the water's untiring energy in changing the position of
+rock masses without obliterating evidences of original design.
+
+A glance at the map shows the sudden breaking off of the various
+passages represented; the end, however, is not of the passages
+themselves, but only of the exploration or the survey of them, and there
+is a possibility that future developments will lead to the discovery of
+more caves than are yet known. However that may be, the glimpses already
+had into the beyond are said to be alluring.
+
+To the north of the Auditorium, which was until recently called the
+Grand Amphitheater, there opens out a kind of alcove extension known as
+the Mother Hubbard Room, and spreading out from this is the corridor, a
+room about one hundred and twenty-five feet long and seventy-five feet
+in width, with a low, narrow passage, or crawl, leading from the
+northeast into the Grotto, a dome-shaped room formerly called the
+Battery, on account of the great number of bats that used to congregate
+in it. It is about forty feet in diameter and fifty feet in height. On
+one side of this room is a narrow "squeeze" opening into a passage
+several feet lower than the floor level of the Grotto and leading to the
+Spanish Room, which when discovered bore indications of having been
+occupied by a human being who had tried to escape by tunneling, or by
+reaching a hole in the roof; which is said to be impossible for him to
+have done without outside assistance. As no bones have been found we may
+hope the assistance arrived in time. When the discovery of the room was
+made, a quantity of loose rock was piled before the entrance, so if he
+ever escaped it was not by that way.
+
+After crawling back to the Corridor, through the same small, but dry
+passage of seventy feet length, we saw a narrow ledge of fine crystals,
+a deposit of Epsom salts, and a few bats that in the dim light looked
+white but are a light tan color with brown wings. A good specimen
+hanging on a projecting ledge of the wall remained undisturbed by us and
+our lights, giving an opportunity for careful inspection so that we
+presently discovered it to be a mummy; which naturally suggests that
+this portion of the cave, being dry and opening out of the great
+temple-like Auditorium as an alcove, could be converted into an imposing
+crypt.
+
+Making our way across the room to its southwest extremity over a varied
+assortment of bowlders and down a drop of eight or ten feet, we crawled
+into another tight-fitting dry passage lined with beautiful glittering
+onyx like clear ice banded with narrow lines of red, of which broken
+fragments covered the narrow floor and made a dazzling, but
+distressingly painful rug to crawl over. This is the West Passage and
+leads to the Grand Crevice, of which only a small portion has been
+surveyed; midway of the passage are the Epsom Rooms, two in number, and
+well supplied with epsomite or native Epsom salts; this is sometimes
+called the Windy Passage, on account of a rushing current of air met
+suddenly at the first bend and, no doubt, due to the meeting here of
+fresh air coming in from the outside with that chemically changed in the
+Epsom Rooms.
+
+The cave contains a great many dangerous places, as we correctly
+surmised on the morning of our introduction; when Mr. Powell's blessing
+on the breakfast was lost in so fervent a prayer for the safe and
+successful accomplishment of our undertaking, it seemed inconsiderate
+not to present the reassuring appearance of inexhaustible endurance.
+
+In the Corridor can be seen one of the three old Spanish ladders found
+in the cave when it was rediscovered; but when and for what purpose the
+Spaniards used the cave there seems to be no means of finding out. It
+should be remembered that this part of the United States was occupied
+first by the Spaniards and then by the French, and is a portion of the
+Louisiana Purchase, a tract of 897,931 square miles, or 70,000 square
+miles more than the original thirteen states. The price asked and paid
+was $12,000,000 and the assumption of claims which citizens of this
+country had against the French Government for about $3,750,000 more. The
+French offered to make the sale on account of being thoroughly
+discouraged with constant troubles arising with the Indians, whom they
+had decided it would be impossible to persuade or compel to recognize
+any laws other than those established by each tribe for itself, or
+accepted by friendly treaty with the council and disregarded by
+individuals on both sides:--and the United States accepted the offer,
+not for any expected value in the land, but for the unrestricted
+navigation of the Mississippi River. Therefore Missouri was never under
+British rule and never changed hands by force of arms.
+
+But to return to the Spanish ladder, it is a tall pine tree notched on
+the sides for steps, and the stump of a branch left or a peg inserted at
+considerable intervals, for hand supports to assist in raising the
+weight of the body.
+
+Returning to the Auditorium, we entered a passage behind the Great White
+Throne and started on what might well be called the Water Route, for no
+dry spot is touched on the round trip; but if one goes prepared for
+such a journey it is well worth the effort and the mud. If the visitor
+is a man, the suit worn should be one he is ready to part with, or
+overalls; ladies receive the same advice even to the overalls, as some
+of the most beautiful portions of the cave, which we failed to see, can
+be visited only in that objectionable costume. To visit any cave
+comfortably a short dress is necessary and if any thing like a thorough
+knowledge of the ramifications is desired, the unavoidable climbing will
+soon prove the superior claims of a divided skirt; but if it is properly
+made, only the wearer need be conscious of the divide. Rubber boots and
+water-proof protection for the head and shoulders complete a costume
+that is not exactly an artistic creation, unless our ideas of art have
+been gathered in the school of Socrates, but it is suited to the
+requirements of the occasion and makes the explorations far more easy
+and profitable than they otherwise could be.
+
+The passage back of the White Throne is called the Serpentine Passage,
+and most of it is sufficiently high for traveling in an erect position;
+yet there are several places that require crawling. The first stopping
+point is the Gulf of Doom Room, or as it is also known, the Register
+Room, because here visitors usually write their names in the peculiar
+dark red clay, which is moist but firm and cuts with a polish. This
+room is twenty-five feet high and fifty feet wide, and looks off into
+the Gulf of Doom, which seems rightly named when a rock is thrown into
+it and you note the lapse of time before any sound returns; and when the
+awful Gulf is made visible by lights thrown in, one involuntarily seeks
+a firmer footing and clings to a projecting rock. The height of the Gulf
+is ninety-five feet and the distant sound of falling water is not
+reassuring. The walls are not smoothly worn away, but have the rough and
+weird appearance of having been torn by a torrent in a narrow mountain
+gorge, and are stained with the dark clay.
+
+Retracing our steps a short distance, if that style of locomotion could
+be called steps, we turned into Dore's Gallery, and surely that artist
+was in his usual working mood when he conceived this awful method of
+connecting the upper regions with the lower. Great bowlders have fallen
+down without helping to fill the black holes that received them, and
+into this real Inferno we proceeded to descend by narrow, ladder-like
+stairs provided with a light hand rail, and trembling slightly with the
+responsibility they assumed. If any one's courage trembled too, no
+notice was taken of it, and a record of exploring experiences does not
+necessarily include a confession of any doubts.
+
+On all the ladders in this Gallery was a fine white fungus growth in the
+form of a thick, heavy mold, that the lightest touch destroyed. In caves
+where some care is taken to protect this mold, it attains a growth of
+six or more feet and assumes the forms of sea-weed.
+
+Once down the first and longest flight of stairs, without any signs of a
+Dore dragon raising its huge body by heavy claws to a resting place
+among the rocks, awe divides more evenly with admiration; and being
+already well besmeared with mud, we climbed over the clay-covered
+bowlders and crawled through narrow holes with perfect satisfaction,
+enjoying each novel scene to the utmost.
+
+Off from the Dore Gallery is a small chamber containing the Fountain of
+Youth, that must be seen, but the way, like that of the transgressor, is
+hard. Arrived at the entrance we hesitated a moment, for although
+getting in looked possible, the way out again seemed not so simple; but
+finally trusting to Providence, through the direct agency of our careful
+guardians, of course, we sat down on the edge of the large slippery
+bowlder on which we stood, and reaching out caught a projection of the
+wall on one side and a bowlder crag on the other, swung off and dropped
+into the soft mud below. This chamber proved to be a little gem; small
+but high, and beautifully adorned with calcite crystal. Down a wall of
+red onyx on one side clear water flows into a basin in the irregular,
+rocky floor, just behind the bowlder we had used for a hand-rest at the
+entrance; the perfectly transparent water in the basin appears to be
+only a few inches deep, but measures three feet, and is several degrees
+colder than the air, which in this portion of the cave is warm. The
+other wall of this room is an almost perpendicular bank of the soft dark
+red clay, in which small selenite crystals are sprouting like plants in
+a garden.
+
+Suddenly we heard a heavy, rolling noise like distant thunder, and
+asking if it were possible to hear a thunder storm so far below the
+surface, were told it was the protest of angry bats against a further
+advance on the quarters to which they have retreated from the main body
+of the cave, and their orders were obeyed: so of what may be in that
+direction, we gained no positive knowledge besides bats, and the fact
+that, small as they are, their great numbers make them dangerous when
+angry. Returning to the gallery and continuing the journey down over
+slippery rock and slender ladders we came at length to the bottom of the
+Gulf of Doom, into which we had looked from the room now high above us;
+and we needed no stimulating help to the imagination to pronounce it a
+fit termination to an artist's troubled dream.
+
+[Illustration: The Waterfall. Page 41.]
+
+Then climbing over an assortment of bowlders of all sizes, going up a
+little, and swinging or sliding down, we came to a point in the narrow
+passage where the floor is a flat slab, like a large paving stone,
+tilted up at a steep angle against one wall and not reaching the other
+by about fifteen inches, with darkness of unknown depth below: about
+three feet above this opening the wall projects in a narrow, shelving
+ledge, and everything is covered with a thin coating of slippery wet
+clay. The only way to cross that uninviting bridge is to brace the feet
+against the slab, and leaning on the ledge, slowly work across. A little
+more rough work and the descent of the two short ladders, brought us, at
+last, under the beautiful Waterfall, where we stood as in a heavy shower
+of rain at the lowest point yet reached in the cave, which according to
+the survey of Mr. Prince is four hundred feet below the surface. The
+falling water has ornamented the walls, which in this portion of the
+cave expose over two hundred feet of Magnesian Limestone, with unique
+forms of dripstone; and the steeply sloping floor has received the
+over-charge of calcium carbonate until it has become a shining mass of
+onyx, retaining pools of cold, transparent water in the depressions. In
+the lowest corner there is only mud, and above it rises, to a height of
+at least fifteen feet a bank of miry, yellow clay, at the top of which a
+hole in the wall is the only known entrance to Blondy's Throne.
+
+[Illustration: Longitudinal and Cross-Sections of Passages in Marble
+Cave, Stone Co., Missouri.
+
+Plotted by Fred Prince, 1894.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+MARBLE CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+On account of the long "crawl" through mud and cold water, it was at
+first suggested and then strongly advised, that we should not undertake
+to make the trip to Blondy's Throne: and yearning to see what is
+considered the cave's chief beauty was not easy to overcome, but after
+careful attention to the deep mire of the approach the advice seemed
+good, especially as Mr. Powell kindly promised to write a description of
+its trials and treasures; which he promptly did, thereby making it
+possible for us to continue the journey now without a disappointing
+interruption, so we will proceed to wade that mud bank with him in his
+own way. He says: "As Mecca is to the Mohammedan, so is Blondy's Throne
+Room to the pilgrim who invades the chaos and penetrates the mysteries
+of Marble Cave. When the subject is mentioned to the guide, he shrugs
+his shoulders and assumes an imploring look, and begins at once to
+mention the difficulties of getting there. But if you insist upon it he
+will go. The passage by which this room has to be reached, if passage it
+may be called, must be entered from the Waterfall Room, and a steep
+ascent must be made until an elevation of fifty feet is reached above
+the bottom of that room. This ascent has been called Hughse's Slide, as
+a man of that name once lost his footing at the top and slid on the wet
+and very slippery clay all the way to the bottom, leaving a very sleek
+trail. The ascent is difficult, as the soft clay is deep and wet and the
+sides are reeking and covered also with soft yielding clay. When the top
+of the slide is once reached, a low passage six feet wide and two feet
+high is discovered, and stooping low, or actually lying flat down, you
+enter. The top of the passage is of smooth rock and the bottom is of wet
+clay with an occasional variation of sharp gravel. The air is good, and
+as a lizard, you start forward. In places the passage widens to ten or
+twelve feet and again narrows to six feet.
+
+"In about one hundred feet you encounter a small pond of water filling
+the whole width of the passage and extending twenty to thirty feet, but
+the guide tells you it is only one foot deep, and calls attention to the
+fact that the water does not come within a foot of the roof of the
+passage and you can easily keep your chin above it, and with this
+assurance through you go.
+
+"Within the next one hundred feet you encounter and pass in the same
+manner three more ponds of varying sizes. The guide calls your
+attention to the fact that you are not alone, and looking about you by
+the dim light of your candle you see numbers of small eyeless
+salamanders, from four inches to one foot long. They are peaceable and
+harmless, appear to have no teeth and are easily caught, if you so
+desire.
+
+"Another hundred feet and the Rest Room, or Egyptian Temple is reached,
+and rising to your feet you may rest. The room is small, but contains
+beautifully fluted walls, resembling basaltic columns; and natural marks
+of erosion that resemble hieroglyphic inscriptions. From the other side
+of this room the passage goes on with the same characteristics, but as
+you enter to go forward a sound strikes the ear, and you pause to
+listen. It is a confusion of sounds, a babel of voices; and sounds like
+a distant conversation carried on by a large number of people. So
+striking is this resemblance that you instantly ask the guide if there
+are people in the room ahead, and hardly believe him when he says, 'No.'
+
+"You hear voices of men, voices of boys, babies, girls and ladies, and
+occasionally loud laughter; but forward is the word and on you go,
+encouraged by the assurance of the guide that you are now over half way
+through the passage and that the sounds came from Blondy's Throne Room.
+Suddenly the passage divides into two much alike, and taking the right
+hand one, you make your slow advance until at last, with clothes soaked
+and covered with clay mud, and your strength about gone, you begin to
+feel desperate and tell the guide that you will go no further, when you
+see him rise to his feet, and he says: 'Here we are.' You step over a
+steep bank of clay and emerge into a large room. It is almost square in
+shape; about eighty feet long and sixty feet wide, and about fifty feet
+high, with white, smooth walls and a pure white ceiling, and sloping
+gradually downward on the left ends in a small, clear lake of water.
+This lake has a beautiful beach of white pebbles, and though shallow on
+the edge seems quite deep at the center; in fact it is believed to have
+there a concealed opening that gives exit to its waters. On the opposite
+side from you, a stream of clear water pours into the lake, and in doing
+so it gives off the sounds that in the passage you mistook for human
+voices; and this noble stream has been named Mystic River. It enters the
+lake from under a beautiful natural arch, about thirty feet across at
+the bottom, and six feet above the water at the center. The bed of the
+stream is eroded from strata of sandstone that is extremely hard,
+containing corundum, and so perfect is its continuity that it conveys
+sound distinctly for a distance far beyond the reach of the human voice,
+when tapped upon with a hammer. The top of the arch is studded with
+lovely stalactites, clear as glass, that extend to the outer edge of the
+arch and form massive and beautiful groups there. Above the arch is a
+large opening. In truth the side of the room is out, and a great dark
+space appears like a curtain of black. A natural path leads up over one
+side of the arch, and following the lead of the guide you go up above
+and learn that a room on the higher level extends off in that direction
+and gets larger and higher. The walls are stalagmitic columns in cream
+color and decked in places with blood-red spots or blotches of Titanic
+size. The ceiling you cannot see. It is too high for the lights you have
+to reach. On the left you are suddenly confronted by a stalagmitic
+formation so large and so grand that all others are dwarfed into
+insignificance. You think of the dome of the Capitol at Washington. You
+are standing at the sloping base but cannot see the top. Just here the
+guide announces in an awestruck voice 'Blondy's Throne.' And who is
+Blondy? Only a fair-haired, blue-eyed, intrepid and daring
+fifteen-year-old boy, named Charles Smallwood, who assisted the writer
+in exploring the cave in the early days of 1883, and going on in
+advance, reported back that he had found another and a greater throne
+than the Great White Throne in the Auditorium.
+
+[Illustration: Blondy's Throne. Page 47.]
+
+"Well, here we are at Blondy's Throne at last, and surveying the base,
+we find that it is actually only half in the room we are in; the other
+half forms the side of another room. In a word, the Great Throne divides
+the room into two parts and makes two rooms of it instead of one. Yet
+the one half of the base has a measurement, by tape line, of one hundred
+and fifty feet. The guide now makes preparations to ascend the Throne. A
+chain has been fastened up towards the top, and by taking hold of this
+the climb can be made up the sloping sides of the Throne. We pass on and
+up over the clearest and most ice-like formation, resembling the great
+icebergs seen at sea. Reaching an elevation of sixty feet an opening
+into the dome is found, and stooping, you enter. It is a room about
+twenty feet across, with a white ice-like floor, a roof or ceiling ten
+feet above, and from it hang thousands of brilliant stalactites and from
+the floor stalagmites rise up to meet them. They are in all sizes, from
+an inch to two feet across. The sides are of the same material joined
+and cemented lightly together. Strike any of them and clear musical
+notes are given off; a musician has found two full octaves. Water is
+dripping in many places, and in the center of the floor is a tank full
+of clear water. It is four feet wide, twelve feet long and of unknown
+depth.
+
+"On the opposite side of the room from which you enter there is a hole
+or opening in the wall. It is large enough to go through but it goes
+into the great dark room on the other side of the Throne. An abyss
+confronts you, a sheer precipice which descends for many feet, perhaps
+hundreds. No man knows. This outer room of Blondy's Throne has been
+named the Chamber of the Fairies. Leaving it and continuing the ascent,
+the top of the Throne is soon reached and is about twenty feet across;
+and from several points still higher, rise stalagmitic spires.
+
+"The actual height of Blondy's Throne is not known, but is probably
+about one hundred feet. Again look upwards for the ceiling from the
+dizzy height on top of the Throne; you cannot see it. Burn magnesium
+ribbon and look up, and you see a white ceiling spangled with groups of
+stalactites. It is surely one hundred feet away. Then look off into the
+unknown room which is called the Great Beyond. No human being has ever
+explored or even entered it, but fire balls thrown in reveal the fact
+that it is of great extent; and part of the bottom water and part land.
+No way of getting into it has ever yet been found, so its mysteries,
+lessons and revelations are still safe from human intrusion. How far it
+goes, where it stops, and what it leads to, are facts for some future
+explorer to discover. Bats and white salamanders are found in Blondy's
+Throne Room, and some larger animals have been heard to jump into the
+water and escape on the approach of man, but their species is not known.
+
+"The arched passage of Mystic River has been followed up for a journey
+of an hour, but further than that its extent is unknown. It was hoped
+that a way would be thus found into the Great Beyond, but it did not
+prove successful. A well equipped party could find there a chance for
+some grand discoveries, and it would be one of the notable pleasures of
+the life of the writer to be one of such a party.
+
+"The exit from Blondy's Throne Room is always made with deep regret that
+the waning lights and meager supplies will not allow a longer stay. The
+long crawl, the mud and the water are all forgotten, and notwithstanding
+the terror of the trip one feels well repaid."
+
+We thank Mr. Powell for a charming journey without its discomfort and
+danger, and resume our travels at the Waterfall.
+
+From the foot of the Waterfall we returned again to the Auditorium, in
+time to enjoy a sight such as we supposed could exist only in a
+brilliant imagination; and the return at that hour was not a lucky
+accident of fate, but the result of careful attention to a prearranged
+design that we should not fail to witness a marvelous display never
+surpassed by lavish Nature. The day outside was one of cloudless
+summer sunshine.
+
+[Illustration: Blondy's Throne Room. Page 50.]
+
+[Illustration: Foot of Waterfall. Page 50.]
+
+Our eyes having grown accustomed to the dim light of candles in passages
+where absolute darkness, unrelieved by the stars of midnight, always
+reigns, the great Auditorium appeared before us softly flooded with
+daylight diffused from a broad white beam slanting down in long straight
+lines from the entrance as from a rift in heavy clouds; only this rift
+displayed around its edges a brilliant border of vegetation that the
+rough rocks cherish with tender care.
+
+As we stood lost in almost speechless admiration, and without the
+slightest warning of treasure yet in store, the white beam was stabbed
+by a narrow, gleaming shaft of yellow sunlight. The glorious, radiant
+beauty of the picture presented is utterly indescribable, but it was of
+short duration, and in a few seconds the golden blade was withdrawn as
+suddenly as it had appeared.
+
+If the genius of Elkins had been granted the privilege we enjoyed, the
+artist-world of Europe that graciously yielded the highest honor to his
+"Sunbeam on Mount Shasta," would have knelt in rapturous humility.
+Speaking of his great work, as we stood before it only a few months
+before his death, Mr. Elkins said quietly: "It is no great achievement;
+I simply painted it exactly as it looked. Anyone could do the same."
+But no one ever has.
+
+The white beam was more enduring and by its aid we were able to view the
+expanse of the great Auditorium far better than could have been done in
+the momentary glare of any brilliant artificial light. Every part of the
+cloud-gray walls shows a stratification as regularly horizontal as if
+the laying of each course had been done with the assistance of line and
+level; while in every direction are now seen hundreds of stalactites
+that had not been noticed before, and although they look small, the
+average length, taken with the surveying instruments, is fourteen feet.
+The Hill beneath the entrance is an accumulation of debris, drifted in
+from the outside, and rising to a height of more than one hundred and
+twenty-five feet; while the great circumference of its supporting base,
+revealed by the banishment of shadows, suggests the possibility of
+tragic history of which the only evidence lies buried there and may or
+may not ever be discovered; but let us step lightly, since our feet may
+press the covering that shields a final sleep; and also let a grieving
+sister in her old age take comfort in the knowledge that here, as in few
+other spots, nature provides a certain and gentle burial for the
+unfortunate, and for a few seconds each day lights the dim chamber with
+a heavenly glory--perhaps in appeal to the sons of one country to
+harbor no such feelings as deprived Abel of life and for all time and
+eternity tarnished the honor of Cain.
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Cave--Interior View. Page 52.]
+
+The chilliness presently recalled us from further indulgence in that
+great scene, to ordinary affairs; and consulting the reliable
+thermometer, it was found to register 42 deg., while in some of the lower
+passages the temperature is 58 deg.; but the variation is not in accordance
+with the accepted theory of one degree to the one hundred feet descent.
+
+A return to the beautiful Spring of Youth Room was now a necessity, but
+we were careful to allow no drop of water falling from clay-stained
+hands to reach the purity of that lovely bowl, and then being happy and
+hungry, we retired to the piano's protecting tent for refreshment.
+
+The atmosphere in Marble Cave has the peculiar bracing and invigorating
+quality common to the majority of caves, that seems almost to defy
+fatigue and encourage exertion that under ordinary conditions would be
+impossible.
+
+After the exertion necessary in the warmer portions of the cave, the
+temperature of 42 deg. proved rather low for comfort and finally was
+admitted to be a sufficient reason for either leaving the cave or
+sending out for the wraps. Slowly and reluctantly the party walked up
+the long winding path to the summit of the Hill where the stairway
+finds support, stopping many times to admire again the perfect curves
+and fine color-tones of that wonderful high arch--within a mountain yet
+softly radiant with the light of day.
+
+Still lingering regretfully among the fern-decked rocks before quite
+finishing the ascent to the actual outside world, the mercury lost
+little time in registering eighty degrees.
+
+Since no official, or even approximately correct map of Marble Cave has
+yet been published, and the desirability of maps is particularly urged
+by Monsieur E.A. Martel, a special effort was made to secure one, which
+was accompanied by the following remarks from Mr. Prince in regard to
+its incompleteness:
+
+"There are several passages and rooms which do not appear on the map,
+though some of them are well known, but have not been surveyed and
+platted.
+
+"Much further exploration is possible in this great cavern. Lost River
+Canon ends abruptly in a bank of red clay, the volume of water being
+undiminished. The water from the Great Fall flows by a small serpentine
+into a passage which has never been followed up; its entrance being
+several hundred feet higher than the nearest water level."
+
+Unfortunately the quantity of water in the cave at the time of the
+visit just described was so unusually great as to render the Lost River
+Canon trip impossible.
+
+During the previous season the cave and its surroundings were visited by
+a prominent naturalist who appears to have been delightfully liberal in
+the diffusion of scientific knowledge and the explanations of methods of
+pursuing investigations. His practical instruction in snake catching is
+particularly interesting as it was never before introduced into this
+state, where the copperhead and rattler are known to have survived among
+the fittest. Seeing a snake hole and desiring information as to the
+family record of the proprietor, he inserted a finger, and while waiting
+for results explained that there is no better way to secure a specimen,
+as the enraged reptile will fasten its fangs into the intruding member
+and then can be easily withdrawn. It is a pleasure to state that even
+snakes recognize the claims of friendship, and no injury was
+experienced.[2]
+
+In the vicinity of Marble Cave there are several choice varieties of
+onyx and marble, among them a rare and beautiful onyx in black and
+yellow. The coloring, tinting and banding of onyx seem generally to be
+regarded as one of the unexplainable mysteries of nature, but is in
+reality an extremely simple process that can be easily studied in any
+active cave.
+
+When the percolating acidulated water passes slowly through a pure
+limestone it is filtered of impurities and deposits a crystal, either
+pure white or transparent; if it comes in contact with metallic bodies
+of any kind, it carries away more or less in solution to act as coloring
+matter; the beautiful pale green onyx in several Missouri counties
+taking its tint from the copper; in South Dakota, manganese in various
+combinations produces black and many shades of brown; in both states an
+excessive flow of water often carries a quantity of red or yellow clay
+which temporarily destroys the beauty of exposed surfaces, but in after
+years becomes a fine band of brilliant color.
+
+Small wind caves are numerous in the Ozarks and being cold are
+frequently utilized for the preservation of domestic supplies. The
+entrance to one in the neighborhood of Marble Cave is high up on the
+hill-side south of Mr. Powell's house and being visible from the porch
+was too tempting to be ignored, and the walk up to it for a better view
+was rewarded with a most charming bit of scenery as well. All the quiet
+valley, divided by a rushing little stream, lay before us in the shadow
+of early evening, while to the north and east the hills were brilliant
+in summer sunshine, with one small open glade gleaming vividly among
+the darker shades of forest green.
+
+The cave was a very small room at the bottom of a steep, rocky, sloping
+passage, and contained no standing water, although there had been a
+heavy rainfall the night before and the opening is so situated as to
+especially favor the inflow, which naturally indicates a greater cave
+beneath a hidden passage. Here, as in most of the caves of the region,
+is found a small lizard: it is totally blind but its ancestors evidently
+were not, as is shown by conspicuous protuberances where the eyes should
+be, but over which the skin is drawn without a wrinkle or seam to
+indicate a former opening. These harmless creatures are not scaly, but
+are clothed in a soft, shining, well-fitted skin, and the largest seen
+were little more than six inches long.
+
+Those who love perfect Nature in a most smiling mood should hasten to
+visit Marble Cave while yet no railroad quite touches the county.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] The naturalist referred to is the late Prof. E.D. Cope.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+FAIRY CAVE AND POWELL CAVE.
+
+
+Fairy Cave enjoys the reputation of being the most beautiful yet
+discovered in that cavernous region, and consequently a visit to it was
+contemplated with considerable eagerness, although the mode of entrance
+had been described with sufficient accuracy to prevent any misconception
+of the difficulties to be overcome or the personal risk involved. To go
+from our temporary abiding place it was necessary to pass Marble Cave,
+and when we had gone that far Mr. Powell left us to follow the road,
+while he, on his mule, took a short cut across the hills and valleys, to
+try to find men not too much occupied with their own affairs on a fine
+Monday morning, in corn plowing time, to join our expedition. As neither
+our small companion, Merle, nor ourselves, had any knowledge of the
+locality of our destination, we were carefully instructed to follow the
+main road to the Wilderness Ridge, and keeping to that, pass the Indian
+Creek road and all others that are plain, but turn down the second dim
+road and follow it until stopped by a new fence where we would be met
+and conducted. So long as points to be passed held out, these directions
+gave us no trouble whatever, even the first dim road offering no
+obstacle to the pleasure of our progress; but the second dim road proved
+so elusive we traveled many miles in search of it, finally bringing up
+against a place Merle was familiar with and knew to be a long way off
+the track of our intentions. As there was nothing to be done but return
+we naturally accepted the situation and did that; presently finding Mr.
+Powell and the Messrs. Irwin, on whose land the cave is, patiently
+waiting for us in what was really not a road at all, but rather, in this
+region of fossils, the badly preserved impression of one long since
+extinct.
+
+The new fence was opened at two places that we might drive through and
+be saved the exertion of walking a considerable distance, then the
+horses were left in the shade while we scrambled down the steep
+hill-side covered with sharp-edged, broken rock, about mid-way down
+which is the mouth of the cave, yawning like a narrow, open well. Above
+this a stout windlass has been arranged on two forked logs.
+
+A few feet below the surface the cave spreads out jug-shaped, so that in
+descending nothing is touched until the floor is reached, one hundred
+feet beneath the surface; consequently the only danger to be apprehended
+is a fall.
+
+Each of the three men present kindly offered to go down and make the
+exploration with me, but that would have left only two at the windlass,
+and for a man's weight, safety requires four. Should an accident occur,
+assistance would be necessary, and some time lost in finding it; so, to
+the undisguised satisfaction of one and equally evident relief of the
+others, it was reluctantly decided that the trip must be given up, and
+therefore we are indebted to the kindness of Captain Powell[3] for the
+following description of Fairy Cave:
+
+     "The Cave referred to is situated in Section 24, Township 23, Range
+     23, in Stone County, Missouri, and is on the homestead of one of
+     three brothers named Irwin.
+
+     "It was accidentally discovered in the year 1895 and up to the time
+     of this writing (June 1896) only six persons have ever entered it.
+     It is in a point or spur of the Ozark Mountains which runs to the
+     east from the great Wilderness Ridge, and is three miles distant
+     from the Marble Cave. Having been one of the first to enter the
+     Cave, being called by the owner as a sort of cave expert, I will
+     attempt to describe both the adventure and the cave just as they
+     were. The measurements are simply estimated, though by long
+     practice I have become expert in that line also, but the longest
+     measurement here was correctly taken by the rope used.
+
+     "Having been invited by the Irwin brothers to come and examine and
+     explore a new cave they had found but had only entered and not
+     explored, accompanied by my eldest son, W.T. Powell, I reached the
+     place one warm Saturday morning. We found about twelve or fourteen
+     men waiting for our coming; some discussing the matter of whether
+     we would enter when we did come, and others who had volunteered to
+     work the windlass, which had been erected over the opening, by
+     means of which, with a one hundred foot rope, entrance was to be
+     made. The opening was like a small well, and situated under the
+     edge of an overhanging cliff of marble, and on the southeast slope
+     of the mountain, about one hundred and fifty feet above the bottom
+     of a narrow valley, and about the same distance below the top of
+     the mountain, which here is three hundred feet high. In order to
+     rig a windlass the edge of the cliff had to be broken away. The
+     well-like opening descended for about ten feet through strata of
+     flat-laying rocks that formed a roof; then all appeared to be
+     vacancy and a stone cast in gave back a distant sound.
+
+     "Having first tested the air and proved it good by dropping in
+     blazing excelsior saturated with turpentine, a stout oak stick was
+     attached to the end of the rope, my son sprang astride and was
+     lowered to the bottom, just one hundred feet. He reported back 'All
+     right.' On the return of the rope I took my position on the stick
+     and was soon dangling in mid air. The sensation was strange and
+     exhilarating. Looking up I could only see the small opening I came
+     through, and a straggling stream of light poured down that, but on
+     all sides profound darkness reigned supreme. A spark-like light my
+     son lit, reminded me of the lost Pleiad. About twenty-five or
+     thirty feet from the top I caught sight of a scene that made me
+     call on the men at the windlass to stop.
+
+     "This caused them to think something was going wrong and one called
+     out to know what was the matter: I heard him say 'He is weakening.'
+     I assured them everything was right only I wanted to take a view;
+     so they stopped. Off at a distance of perhaps twenty-five feet was
+     an opening about ten feet or more wide and twelve feet high. The
+     light from the opening struck it fairly, owing to the position of
+     the sun at the time. Through this opening I saw into another room,
+     large and magnificent. It brought to mind the White City. It was
+     snowy white, and thickly studded with stalactites and stalagmites
+     of immense size and in great numbers; some looking like spires of
+     numerous churches, and many connected as with a lattice-work about
+     the bottom. For a short time I gazed on that lovely scene, and
+     examined the chances to reach it, but a great gulf intervened that
+     we had no means of spanning, and I called to the men to lower me
+     down. Approaching the bottom one of the walls trended in towards me
+     and I stepped upon solid ground close to the wall, which half way
+     up seemed fifty feet away. The opening above now looked like a
+     small pale moon, and the next man who came dangling down to join us
+     looked no bigger than a toy soldier. Gradually our eyes became
+     accustomed to the twilight, and by the time our party was increased
+     to six men, I could see quite distinctly.
+
+     "The room runs directly into the mountain and is about ninety feet
+     high, and where we landed it proved to be twenty feet wide. It
+     extended in both directions, but much the farthest towards the
+     right hand. The outer room is encrusted in fine white water
+     formations. It forms a Gothic ceiling from which hang pendant at
+     all places brilliant and sparkling stalactites; some being of
+     immense size and length, from ten to twenty-five feet. Others are
+     not so large but are brilliant. We created a flood of artificial
+     light with dozens of candles and lamps; and then and not until
+     then, could we see the slope and contour of the roof. A few bats
+     were flitting about, disturbed for the first time. To the left, a
+     vast white pillar extended from floor to roof. It was pure white
+     and about five feet in diameter all the way up. It was fluted,
+     fretted, draped and spangled. I never in my life saw anything more
+     chaste and lovely. I thought of the countless ages it must have
+     taken to form that monument: of the streams of clear water that had
+     fallen and left their calcite deposits, while it grew year after
+     year, age after age, century after century, in this profound
+     darkness, disturbed by no noises save the rhythmic sound of the
+     falling drops and the dull flitting of the bats, who alone were the
+     living witnesses of its construction. To the rear of this great
+     pillar the room is divided into three galleries, one above another.
+     With great difficulty and much danger we climbed into each of
+     these. The floors were all like the pillar of pure white onyx, and
+     extended back a distance of thirty or more feet. The floor of one
+     formed the roof of another. They were brilliant with hanging
+     pendants and the side walls were all veneered with the same white
+     and crystalline formation. To entirely describe them is impossible.
+     A day in each would still leave the observer short of words in
+     which to tell of the wonders.
+
+     "Turning towards the right hand from the entrance we advance two
+     hundred feet up an incline of dry clay, the room widening gradually
+     until its width is forty feet, when we reach the top of an
+     elevation thirty feet above the starting point, where a sudden
+     steep descent brings us to a halt. A stone cast down strikes water
+     and the sound of a splash comes back to us. With caution we seek
+     our way down the hill and stand on the edge of a small lake or
+     pond. Suddenly my son, who is in the lead, rushes back saying:
+     'Look out! I put my hand on a snake.' Some of us, being armed with
+     hickory canes that had been thrown down, concentrated our lights
+     and advanced. Sure enough, there is a snake a yard long coiled up
+     on a section of rotten wood. It proves to be a copperhead, the most
+     quarrelsome and vicious snake in this country; but his nature is
+     changed so that he makes no effort to fight and is killed with a
+     blow, and is sent to be hoisted up that we may examine him in
+     daylight. No others were found, and probably he had fallen in at
+     the opening, and spent a long, weary time in expiation of his
+     upper-earth crimes.
+
+     "Examining the lake we find it to be about forty feet wide and the
+     same long, and it fills the room from wall to wall. We cannot pass
+     it so must either stop or wade through. We decide to wade, and on
+     measuring the water find it only two or three feet deep, with a
+     soft clay bottom, and in many places islands of stalagmite rise
+     above the surface.
+
+     "On the sides of the lake there are formations in the shape of
+     sofas and lounges, and they appear to be cushioned, but the
+     cushions are found to be hard, solid rock. As the lights advance
+     across the lake new wonders are revealed. Curtains and draperies
+     hanging from the top almost touch the water and entirely cut off
+     the view beyond. Passing under a curtain at one of the highest
+     places, we emerge from the lake, and once more on dry land, advance
+     up a slope. Here the water formations have taken human shapes of
+     all sizes and several colors now appear and help to present a chaos
+     of beauty.
+
+     "Two hundred feet more and the chamber ends in a vast waterfall,
+     but the water has turned to stone. Above the waterfall is an
+     opening, but it is twenty-five feet up a smooth wall and we have no
+     ladder. The journey was at an end. Tired, wet and muddy, we started
+     on our return trip; recrossed the dark lake, and retraced our steps
+     to the place under the opening without realizing that we had spent
+     six hours under ground. While the other members of the party, and
+     the specimens, were being raised to the surface, the writer sought
+     to learn the flora and fauna of this new region. The flora is
+     blank. Even the white mold so common in many caves is absent; and
+     no fungus grows on the poles, bark and rotten wood that have at
+     some past time been cast in.
+
+     "In animal life the range is greater. I have mentioned the
+     ever-present bats, and dozens of them were seen. There were also
+     small, white eyeless salamanders, small, yellow, speckled
+     salamanders, with signs of eyes but no sight; also a jet black
+     salamander, which like the rest, was blind. The bats were of two
+     species--the common brown bat and the larger light grey or yellow
+     species. But this was not the time of the year to see many bats in
+     caves. In the summer season most of them go out and remain until
+     cool weather, and then return to the caves with their young; so I
+     was rather surprised to see as many as we did.
+
+     "Down comes the rope for the last time, and taking my place, I soon
+     feel myself spinning around and slowly rising. As I again pass the
+     magic city I saw going down, a stronger wish than ever takes
+     possession of me to go there, and I look for any chance to solve
+     the problem of how such a journey can be made. 'Thou art so near
+     and yet so far.'
+
+     "Suddenly I find myself emerging from the ground into a very hot
+     world, with the evening sun blazing so that the air feels like the
+     scorching heat of an oven; and my late companions are scattered
+     about under the trees, no doubt wishing themselves back in the cool
+     regions below the hot cliffs.
+
+     "My final conclusions in regard to Fairy Cave were that it was
+     about six hundred feet long by from fifteen to forty feet wide and
+     from eighty to ninety feet high: that in the upper story there are
+     rooms that I could not reach, that will amply pay the scientist
+     and explorer to investigate in the future: that probably we reached
+     all the accessible parts in the level we traveled: that the
+     temperature was fifty-six or very near that degree: that small as
+     it is, it contains the finest formations and grandest scenery I
+     have ever seen in a cave: and I have examined over one hundred of
+     various sizes. I believe that for interior beauty its equal is not
+     to be found in America, and I sincerely believe that the verdict of
+     future exploration will establish the truth of the assertion, but
+     as equally good judges differ on such matters, time will be
+     required for a true and just decision. There are yet many promising
+     caves to be explored in this region, and if my strength holds out a
+     few years I hope to see them all.
+
+                                                   "T. S. Powell."
+
+
+POWELL CAVE.
+
+As a measure of consolation for the disappointment of not seeing the
+beauty of Fairy Cave, Mr. Irwin suggested that only a quarter of a mile
+further on was another, recently discovered and worthy of a visit,
+although small.
+
+In that region of steep hills and sharp-edged rocks, a great amount of
+travel can be added to the experience of a tender-foot in a short
+distance. The quarter of a mile seemed to stretch out in some mysterious
+way as we worked on it, but the variety and abundance of attractions are
+more than ample compensation.
+
+The view was fine, including as it did the deep ravine and grassy,
+wooded slopes rising three hundred feet above, with here and there a
+handsome ledge of marble exposed like the nearly buried ruin of a
+forgotten temple of some past age. Scattered about in great profusion
+among the broken rock on the surface of these hill-sides we observed a
+water deposit of iron ore. It is a brown hematite and in some cases
+shows the structure of the bits of wood it has replaced. Since this
+region has from the earliest time produced a generous growth of
+vegetation, the decay of which has yielded a never-failing supply of
+acids to assist in carving the caves and then in their decoration, the
+presence of the ore is not difficult to account for. The whole Ozark
+uplift being rich in iron, the acidulated drainage waters coming into
+contact dissolved and took it in solution, to re-deposit where and when
+conditions should be favorable. These conditions were found in the basin
+among the hills and along its outlet.
+
+In the Popular Science Monthly of January 1897, a short article by J.T.
+Donald, entitled "A Curious Canadian Iron Mine," describes the same
+thing going on at the present time in Lac a la Tortue, a small body of
+water in the center of a tract of swamp land, which produces the
+vegetation necessary to supply the acid required for a base of
+operation.
+
+Of the manner of deposition he says: "The solution of iron in vegetable
+acid (in which the iron is in what the chemist calls the form of a
+protosalt) is oxidized by the action of the air on the surface of the
+lake into a persalt, which is insoluble, and appears on the surface in
+patches that display the peculiar iridescence characteristic of
+petroleum floating on water. Indeed, not infrequently these films of
+peroxide of iron are incorrectly attributed to petroleum. These films
+become heavy by addition of new particles; they sink through the water,
+and in this manner, in time, a large amount of iron ore is deposited on
+the lake bottom. It must not be supposed that the ore is deposited as a
+fine mud or sediment. On the contrary, in this lake ore, as it is
+called, we have an excellent illustration of what is called
+concretionary action--that is, the tendency of matter when in a fine
+state of division to aggregate its particles into masses about some
+central nucleus, which may be a fragment of sunken wood, a grain of
+sand, or indeed a pre-formed small mass of itself."
+
+It is claimed for this water ore, which is gathered like oysters, that
+mixed with bog ore and magnetic iron, and smelted with charcoal, the
+result as obtained is strong, durable and high priced.
+
+The curiously elastic quarter of a mile finally yielded to persistent
+toil, and the cave was reached. The entrance is sufficiently broad to
+give a good first impression, and is under a heavy ledge of limestone
+which breaks the slope of the hill and is artistically decorated with a
+choice collection of foliage, among which is a coral honeysuckle; the
+fragrant variety grows everywhere. Under the ledge is a narrow
+vestibule, out of the north end of which is a passage about twenty-four
+inches in width, between perpendicular walls, and as steeply inclined as
+the average dwelling-house stairway but without any assisting
+depressions to serve as steps. Mr. Irwin cut a grape vine, and making
+one end secure at the entrance, provided a hand rail, by the aid of
+which I was able to easily descend the stepless way and afterwards
+remount.
+
+The first chamber entered is the principal portion of the cave, and by
+actual measurement is forty-nine feet in length by forty-eight in
+greatest width and the height estimated at fifty feet. On account of
+irregularities it appears smaller but higher. On opposite sides of the
+chamber, at elevation about midway between the floor and ceiling are two
+open galleries. The floor is extremely irregular with its accumulation
+of fallen masses of rock, and the action of water has given to portions
+of the walls the appearance of pillars supporting the arches of the
+roof. The whole aspect is that of a small Gothic chapel. Off to the
+northwest is another room measuring thirty feet in each direction, and
+out of this are several openings, too small to squeeze through, which
+indicate the possible existence of other chambers beyond, but they may
+be only drain pipes.
+
+The cave contains no drip formations, notwithstanding which it is one of
+the most charming, and when invited to name it I called it Powell Cave,
+in honor of the most ardent admirer of caves in that county, and to whom
+I am much indebted for valued assistance.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] Editor of the county news-paper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+OTHER STONE COUNTY CAVES.
+
+
+GENTRY CAVE.
+
+The cave nearest to Galena, and the first visited by us, is Gentry Cave,
+situated a mile and a half from town. We started in the mail coach, but
+that vehicle met with a misfortune by no means unusual in that region,
+the total wreck of a wheel. Having only that morning arrived from the
+rich agricultural portion of the State where no surface rock can be
+found, we were pleased enough with the prospect of a walk in such
+charming spring weather, and set out with a cheerful certainty that the
+rough place in the road would soon be passed. But the school of
+experience is always open for the reception of new-comers and we were
+admitted to full duty without question.
+
+The topography was nearly as broken, in its way, as the natural "piking"
+spread over it, and very beautiful with the dense forests lighted by the
+slanting yellow rays of the afternoon sun. The way leads up to the
+"ridge road" which is at length abandoned for no road at all, and
+descending through the forest, more than half the distance down to the
+James River flowing at the base of the hill, we come suddenly in view of
+the cave entrance, which is probably one of the most magnificent pieces
+of natural architecture ever seen.
+
+Rounding a corner by a narrow path, we step onto a covered portico
+ninety-seven feet long, with an average width of ten feet. The floor is
+smooth and level, as also is the ceiling, which is nine feet above,
+supported by handsomely carved pillars and rising in a gray cliff
+projecting from the slope of the hill above, out to the brink of the
+more abrupt descent to the water's edge ninety feet below. Between the
+pillars are three large door-ways into the cave. The comparison
+suggested is an Egyptian temple, and the idea is continued within, where
+there are no chambers as in other caves; but instead, the entire
+interior is a labyrinth of passages winding about in every direction
+among an uncounted number of low massive pillars, some supporting a low
+ceiling and others connected by high arches, the highest point being
+estimated at sixty feet, but appearing to be more, because the enclosed
+space rising to a dome is so narrow that the point of view is
+necessarily directly underneath.
+
+All exposed surfaces of pillars and walls inside the cave are of clay or
+a soft porous rock having the same appearance, and are covered with
+curious little raised markings like the indescribable designs of mixed
+nothing generally known as "Persian patterns." This is, of course,
+easily explained; the clay being the residuum from disintegrated
+limestone, the markings described are the harder portions of the rock
+remaining after particles of clay had been carried out by flowing water
+while the disintegrating process was yet incomplete.
+
+The Drinking Fountain is considered the great attraction of the cave,
+and appears to have been fashioned to suggest a model for the handsome
+soda fountains belonging to a later period. The water bowl is a large
+depression worn in the top of a rock which seems to have been built into
+the wall. In front it is five feet high and nine feet across, with
+artistic corners approximately alike, and at the back ornamental carving
+extends upward towards the ceiling with an opening through the wall at
+the center. This opening is divided by a short column down which water
+trickles to supply the bowl. The ceiling here is about thirty-five feet
+high and most of the exposed surface is a blue-gray limestone. Only one
+portion of Gentry Cave has received a deposit of dripstone and even that
+is of limited extent, and located at the end of a narrow slippery
+passage between high, slippery walls.
+
+The fine entrance is of grey limestone in undisturbed horizontal strata,
+and this is so plainly marked in the roof-supporting pillars as to give
+them the appearance of having been prepared by skillful hands, in
+several blocks, and afterwards arranged in place without the aid of
+mortar. Unfortunately, all efforts to photograph this wonderful portico
+have failed to give satisfaction--its position above the river being
+such as to afford no point for the proper placing of the camera; but a
+second visit made for the purpose of trying was far from being a loss,
+and part of the reward consisted of finding among the sheltered rocks,
+scarcely three feet above the floor, two humming birds' nests with their
+treasure of small eggs, and our little companion who discovered them was
+pleased to leave them untouched.
+
+
+SUGAR TREE HOLLOW CAVE.
+
+The name of this cave is due to the fact that the approach is through a
+"hollow" well wooded with sugar maple trees. It is two miles from Galena
+and the drive a beautiful one, as much of the way is through the forest
+without a road, but with a charming little rushing, crooked stream of
+clear, cold water: and in places the green slopes give way to mural
+bluffs of grey limestone in undisturbed strata.
+
+The entrance to the cave is through a hole about two feet high by three
+in width, into which we went feet first and wiggled slowly down an
+incline covered with broken rock, for a distance of fifteen feet, where
+a standing depth is reached. A flat, straight, level ceiling extends
+over the whole cave without any perceptible variation, and this is
+bordered around its entire length and breadth with a heavy cornice of
+dripstone, made very ornamental by the forms it assumes, and the
+multitude of depending stalactites that fall as a fringe around the
+walls. The line of contact between the cornice and ceiling is as clear
+and strong as if both had been finished separately before the cornice
+was put in place by skillful hands.
+
+Dripstone covers the walls, which vary in height from one foot to twenty
+feet, according to the irregularities of the floor, just as the width of
+this one-room cave varies with the curves of the walls, which are
+sweeping and graceful, the average being twenty-nine feet, but is much
+greater at the entrance where the entire slope extends out beyond the
+body of the cave. The length, from north to south, measures two hundred
+and thirty-three feet exclusive of an inaccessible extension.
+
+The south end of the cave rises by a steep slope to within a foot of the
+ceiling with which it is connected by short but heavy columns of
+dripstone, and another line of pillars of graduated height meets this
+at right angles near the middle and ends in an immense stalagmite that
+stands at the foot of the slope like a grand newel post.
+
+There is no standing water in the cave, but everything is wet with drip,
+and consequently the formation of onyx is actively progressing and the
+south slope already mentioned shows a curious succession of changes in
+cave affairs. By the slow action of acidulated waters, the grey
+limestone deteriorated into a yellowish clay-bank, and now its particles
+are being re-united into solid rock by the deposit of calcium carbonate
+from the drip.
+
+A careful test of the temperature of the atmosphere showed it to be
+fifty-eight degrees.
+
+
+PINE RUN CAVE.
+
+This also is a small cave easily visited from Galena, being less than
+two miles distant on the Marionville road. The entrance faces the road
+and is on the same level, consequently it is one of the easiest to
+visit. Just within is seen an opening in the ceiling, which we are told
+is one of the two ways to an upper chamber whose chief attraction is a
+dripstone piano, and the means of ascending is at hand in the form of a
+Spanish ladder; but an attempt of that sort might even cause the new
+woman to hesitate, and who hesitates is lost. The ascent was not made.
+We advanced on a level with the road for a distance of perhaps twenty
+feet, when the direction of the cave changed with a right angular turn
+and we were in a straight gallery about two hundred and fifty feet long
+and fifteen feet in width, the height gradually decreasing to about
+three feet towards the upper end, where it widened out into a low but
+broad chamber. The floor of this chamber is most beautiful. It is
+composed of a series of connected calcite bowls whose beautifully fluted
+rims are of regular and uniform height, and all are equally filled with
+clear, still water. A great number of these basins are said to have been
+destroyed by an ax in the hands of a poor witless creature for the
+gratification of a burst of temper, and a magnificent stalagmitic
+column, too heavy for one man to lift, lay detached and broken, in proof
+that his body did not share the feebleness of his mind.
+
+Beyond these basins is a low passage through which is found the second
+entrance to the upper chamber, but the basins must be crossed in order
+to reach it, and this is not an easy undertaking even when their water
+supply is low, but in the early summer they are almost full.
+
+There are said to be more than one hundred caves in Stone County, one of
+which is supposed to be fully as large as Marble Cave, if not larger,
+and is located in the southern part of the county but has not been
+explored.
+
+Mill Cave is in the northeast of the county, and at the entrance is a
+saw mill which receives its working power from the cave stream. Inside
+the cave there is a lake.
+
+Hermit's Cave is a few miles from Galena, and is so named on account of
+having been used as a dwelling by its former owner, who kept a coffin in
+which he intended to place himself before the final summons, but was
+overtaken by death in the forest and it was never used. He wrote sermons
+on the rocks in his cave and one of these was afterwards removed.
+
+Wolf's Den is also near Galena, and has been utilized as a sheep fold.
+
+Wild Man's Cave is near Galena, and on account of the stories with which
+people have been frightened, can only be visited by permission and with
+a guard stationed at the entrance.
+
+Reynard's Cave is four miles west of Galena on the farm of Dr. Fox, but
+is so nearly filled up with dripstone that only crawling room remains.
+The doctor's place is a fine locality for the collection of fossils.
+
+At a distance of twelve miles from Galena there is said to be a fine
+natural bridge, well worth a visit and sufficiently near Mill Cave for
+both to be seen on the same trip.
+
+In Bread Tray Mountain there is supposed to be a cave through which a
+torrent rushes at times, that being the only way in which to explain the
+strange thundering, roaring noise always heard after a storm, and never
+at other times.
+
+Besides being a wonderful cave region, and rich in the great abundance
+and variety of native fruits and fine timber, Stone County has a vast
+amount of mineral wealth, the heaviest deposits being zinc, lead and
+iron, with some indications of silver, gold and copper, which have been
+found but not in paying quantity. Already since the summer of 1896
+several exceptionally pure bodies of zinc have been discovered, the
+white ore of one recently opened deposit giving highly gratifying
+indications as to extent. Prospecting may be said to have only commenced
+in this very far from over-crowded region.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+OREGON COUNTY CAVES.
+
+
+GREER SPRING.
+
+Oregon County is also at the extreme southern limit of the State of
+Missouri and was visited, not because its caves are supposed to be
+either finer or more numerous than those of all the other Ozark
+counties, but on account of remarkable attractions associated with them
+that are not known to be equaled, or even subject to rivalry, by any
+similar works of nature in any portion of the world.
+
+The most convenient railway point is Thayer; the station hotel affords
+comfortable accommodations for headquarters, and the last days of
+September proved a charming time. The foliage was in full summer glory,
+refreshed by a gentle and copious rain, and the insinuating tick had
+already retired from active business until the following season.
+
+The carriage having been ordered on condition of its being a clear day,
+we left Thayer at eight o'clock on a perfect morning to visit Greer
+Spring, and were soon in the depth of the beautiful Ozark forest, from
+which we did not once emerge until Alton, the county seat, was reached,
+the distance traveled being sixteen miles. Here we stopped for dinner at
+the small hotel kept by one of the old-time early settlers who came to
+the region before the war. The dinner was a surprise, and received the
+highest commendation possible to a dinner, the hearty appreciation of a
+boy. A young nephew, Arthur J. Owen, having been invited to act as
+escort on the trip, found all the varied experience in cave hunting
+fully equal to the pictured joys of anticipation. After a large bell
+suspended somewhere outside had notified the business public that dinner
+was ready to be served, we were invited to the dining-room, where on a
+long table was the abundance of vegetables afforded by the season and
+soil of an almost tropical state, and cooked as the white-capped chef of
+the great hotel, where the warm weeks were spent, had not learned the
+secret of; and the delicately fried chicken was not of that curious
+variety, commonly encountered by travelers, in which the development of
+legs robs the centiped of his only claim to distinction. As the dishes
+cooled they were removed and fresh supplies brought in.
+
+Our driver received directions about the road and we started on another
+drive of seven miles. These directions were "to follow the main road to
+the forks, and then keep to the Van Buren road and any one could tell
+us where Captain Greer lives."
+
+The road was, as before, through the park-like forest, and as before,
+lay chiefly along the ridge, so that where clearings had been made for
+farms there were fine views over the distant country, which everywhere
+was forest-covered hills, of a rich green near at hand but changing with
+the growth of distance, first to dark, and then to lighter blue.
+
+In these forests were fine young cattle and horses, and uncounted
+numbers of "razorbacks," or as they are otherwise called,
+"wind-splitters." For the benefit of those who may not be familiar with
+the names, it might be well to explain that they are the natural heirs
+of the native wild hog of Missouri and Arkansas. The nephew was greatly
+amused at seeing many of them with wooden yokes on their long necks, to
+prevent an easy entrance into fields and gardens by squeezing through
+the spaces between fence rails. These animals are such swift runners it
+is said they can safely cross the railroad between trucks of the fast
+express. Their snouts are so long and thin, it is also claimed that two
+can drink from a jug at the same time; never having seen it done,
+however, this is not vouched for, but merely repeated as hearsay.
+
+[Illustration: Wilderness Pinery, Oregon Co. Page 84.]
+
+After a time we stopped to inquire the way of an old man dipping water
+from a pond by the roadside. He told us he was dipping water to wash
+the wheat he was sowing in the field just over the fence, and that we
+reach the forks, then to keep the Van Buren road, pass two houses on the
+left, a white one on the right, another on the left and then inquire the
+way--anyone could tell us, and Captain Greer would show us to the
+Spring, "for he is a mighty accommodating man."
+
+On we went to the forks where in the point of the Y stood a large tree
+with a Van Buren sign-board on one side, and in the direction it
+pointed, we turned, although rather reluctantly, for it looked little
+used and rocky, while the other was in good condition; but we followed
+the sign-board and had no misgivings until it began to be realized that
+a great deal of time was being passed but no houses. The morning had
+been very chilly, but now the atmosphere was just at that balmy point
+between warm and cool that makes mere living an unqualified luxury; and
+added to this we soon found ourselves in a deep canon no less beautiful
+than the justly celebrated North Cheyenne Canon near Colorado Springs.
+
+There was now no doubt that we were on the wrong road, but such
+magnificence was unexpected and not to be turned from with indifference.
+
+For some distance the road makes a gradual and rather perilous looking
+descent along the steep and broken slope on the shady side of the
+ancient river's great retaining-wall, while that opposite is glorified
+by the brilliant glow of the afternoon sun, which adds an equal charm to
+the rich, luxuriant foliage below and the tall stately pines that adorn,
+without concealing, the grey rock they proudly cling to, or that rises
+in a protecting rampart three hundred feet higher than the canon bed,
+with banners of the long-needled pine waving above to proclaim the
+perfection of Nature's undisturbed freedom.
+
+The road descending crosses the thread of water still flowing among the
+great rounded bowlders left by the former torrent, and our view is
+changed to one of dense, but by no means melancholy, shadows, with a
+crown of golden sunlight; and presently the course of the canon turns to
+the east, and it is all filled with the yellow rays and we notice the
+bright red hawthorn berries, and masses of hydrangea still showing
+remnants of their late profusion of bloom. We Missourians have a great
+love of fine scenery and generally take long journeys into other states
+in order to gratify the taste, while quite unconscious of the wonderful
+beauty and grandeur of the Ozarks.
+
+Where the canon begins to broaden into a small sheltered valley as it
+approaches Eleven Points River, we turned and retraced our way to the
+forks, and a short distance beyond to a house where we might again
+inquire. A woman came to the open door as we stopped and in answer to a
+question said: "You ought to have asked me when you passed here a while
+ago."
+
+Apologies for the seeming neglect were offered and accepted, then she
+explained that both roads went to Van Buren but not to Greer Spring,
+where in due time we at length arrived.
+
+The house being in one corner of a "forty" and the spring in that
+diagonally opposite, there was a walk of nearly that distance before
+coming to an old road inclining steeply down into what looked to be a
+narrow canon. About midway of this sloping road, the space confined
+between perpendicular walls, rising to heights above on one side and
+descending to the stream on the other, widens suddenly and a picturesque
+old mill comes into view, it having been wholly screened from the
+approach by the rich growth of shrubs and trees. Chief in abundance
+among this luxury of leaf was the hydrangea,--a favorite shrub largely
+imported into this country from Japan before it was discovered as a
+native. The mill site seems to have been selected for its beauty
+although we were told that at this point the stream is seventy-two feet
+wide, and two and one half feet deep, but could be raised thirty feet
+with perfect safety by a dam, for which the rock is already on the
+ground and much of it broken ready for use. The flow is said to be two
+hundred and eighty yards per minute, with no appreciable variation, and
+never freezes. The high walls of the Greer Spring gorge will, of course,
+far more than double the value it would otherwise possess, when it
+becomes desirable to control and turn to practical account the power now
+going so cheerily to waste, but the artistic loss will be
+proportionately severe.
+
+The old mill was the scene of great activity in former times, but was
+closed on account of an unfortunate accident and for years has had no
+other duty than simply to serve as a portion of the landscape.
+
+Just beyond, the canon makes a curving bend, the road dwindles to a
+narrow path and we behold the most beautiful scene imaginable.
+
+The canon has come to an end and is shut in by a graceful curve of the
+high, perpendicular grey walls that are crowned with trees and shrubs,
+and decked below with a thick carpet of bright green moss. In this
+basin, which is nearly one hundred feet across, Greer Spring plunges up
+from beneath through an opening nine feet in diameter, in the midst of a
+pool of water six feet deep, and having an unvarying temperature of
+forty-nine degrees throughout the year. This water is so perfectly clear
+that not the least pebble is obscured from view, and the color scheme is
+most marvelous.
+
+[Illustration: Greer Spring. Page 88.]
+
+Where the great spring forces its way to the surface, the water is a
+deep, brilliant blue with white caps, and its falling weight keeps clear
+of moss a large spot of fine, pure, white sandstone, while all the
+balance appears a vivid green from the moss that thrives beneath the
+moving water; and surrounding these are the handsome, foliage-decked
+grey walls. The edges of the basin are thickly strewn with fallen rocks
+deeply covered with moss, in which small ferns are growing, and on these
+gay stepping stones we crossed to the head-wall of the canon to find
+ourselves at the open mouth of a cave from which flows a clear, shallow
+stream to join the waters of the Spring in that wonderful basin. The
+entrance to the cave is an arch about fifteen feet wide and twelve feet
+high, with the clear, shallow stream spreading over the clean rock floor
+from side to side. Here now was presented a difficulty. Truly the cave
+was _not_ quite dry. The water was about ten inches deep, and my boots
+in Thayer. Contrary to advice, however, my nephew had brought his, and
+with a boy's kindness loaned them while he made the trip with bare feet
+and rolled up trousers.
+
+A short distance within, the cave widens and the floor of the extension
+being somewhat higher, is dry, but the roof drops so low over it that
+the water-course is an easier route of travel; and this soon widens
+into a lake above which the ceiling rises in a broad dome less than
+twenty feet in height, and hung with heavy masses of dripstone draperies
+of varying length, from five to seven feet; and all the ceilings are
+fringed at various heights with stalactites of every size and age, some
+being a clear, colorless onyx, while others proclaim their great age in
+the fact that they have so deteriorated that the onyx texture is either
+partly or completely lost, and what was once a pure drip crystal has
+returned to a common, porous, dull-colored limestone so soft that
+portions can be rubbed to powder in the hand.
+
+Picking the way carefully as the depth of the lovely lake increased, we
+followed the sound of falling water and peered into the dark distance in
+a vain effort to see it, yet expecting to reach that special object of
+interest by keeping to the shallower parts of the lake. These
+expectations were shattered suddenly when the boots filled with water,
+and that called to mind the fact that twenty-three miles and a chilly
+night lay between us and dry clothing; so we returned to the outside
+world and rested on the rocks where Captain Greer and our young driver
+waited for us. The cave has never been fully explored, and probably we
+penetrated farther than others have ever done, as the owner knew
+nothing of the falling water we so distinctly heard and were surely very
+near.
+
+The view from the rocks is wonderfully beautiful and includes both the
+entrance to the cave, with its flowing stream, and the receiving basin
+with its bounding stream. But it was growing late in the afternoon, and
+there was another cave whose entrance was in the perpendicular wall
+above the end of the path by which we had come. This entrance could be
+reached by a dilapidated ladder; assisted by a forked pole and supplied
+with candles and matches, my nephew and I achieved the ascent with not
+much trouble. Here we found what is, no doubt, one of the oldest caves
+known.
+
+The original cavity is nearly filled up with masses of onyx--colorless
+crystal and white striped with pale shades of grey. The cave is
+perfectly dry and freshly broken surfaces in some places show signs of
+deterioration, so how can we venture even a guess as to the time it has
+required to first excavate the cave and then fill it with masses of rock
+deposited by the slow drip process, and later, for that crystalline rock
+in a now dry atmosphere to present a perceptible weakening? We went as
+far as passages could be crawled into, which was no great distance, and
+at once started on our uncertain descent of the ladder; but this was not
+a matter of so much concern as the upward trip, for the success of
+which some doubts were entertained; for going down is always naturally a
+less certain matter, as one can fall if more desirable means are
+unsuccessful, and I have unexpectedly reached many coveted points in
+this simple manner.
+
+Taking a last look at Greer Spring with its cave river, grey walls, gay
+with foliage, and all the harmony of color and form combined in the
+narrow canon that was once the main body of a great cave, I recalled
+views on the Hudson River and in the mountains of Maryland, Virginia and
+Pennsylvania, and others out in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado and the
+Wausatch in Utah, but amid all their wonderful grandeur and famous
+beauty, could remember no spot superior to this masterpiece of the
+Ozarks.
+
+The proprietor of the Spring and a thousand acres of land adjacent, took
+personal possession on the day of Lincoln's first election, to establish
+a home.
+
+The sun having failed to consider our wishes was now about to disappear
+in a gleaming flood of gold, so the return to Thayer that night was out
+of the question. Our host and his wife observed that fact and cordially
+invited us to remain for the night and as much longer as we would like
+to, but being unwilling to impose on kindness to such an extent, we
+returned to the hotel in Alton, and now urgently advise that those who
+ever have an opportunity to enjoy a moonlight drive through the Ozark
+forests should not let it pass unimproved.
+
+
+OTHER CAVES NEAR BY.
+
+About twelve miles from Alton there are three other caves worthy of
+attention. Two of these are known only as The Saltpetre Caves, and the
+third as The Bat Cave.
+
+Not many persons care to visit the Bat Cave, for although its
+inhabitants are small, they have evidently decided to profit by the
+experience of the Red Man and take no risks through hospitality. Their
+warnings can be heard like distant thunder for some distance outside the
+cave, and any unheeding intruder is set upon in fury by such vast
+numbers of the little creatures that his only safety is in hasty
+retreat.
+
+During the war the two Saltpetre Caves were worked to a considerable
+extent, and also served as safe retreats for the residents of the
+region, as well as the visiting "Jonny," when the vicinity became
+oppressively "blue."
+
+Both of these caves are especially notable on account of the fine
+stalactites with which they are abundantly supplied; most of them being
+snow white and from fourteen to twenty feet in length.
+
+Unfortunately, most of the caves in this region have been deprived of
+great quantities of their beautiful adornments by visitors who are
+allowed to choose the best and remove it in such quantities as may suit
+their convenience and pleasure. Those who own the caves, and those who
+visit them, would do well to remember that if all the natural adornment
+should be allowed to remain in its original position, it would continue
+to afford pleasure to many persons for an indefinite time; but if
+broken, removed, and scattered the pleasure to a few will be
+comparatively little and that short-lived. The gift of beauty should
+always be honored and protected for the public good.
+
+We were not so fortunate as to discover fossils of any kind in this
+locality, although the search was by no means thorough; but even if it
+had been the result might have been the same, since that county and
+others adjoining have been mapped as Cambrian. The greater part of the
+exposed rock is a fine sandstone almost as white as gypsum on a fresh
+fracture, and much of it is ripple-marked so as to show a beautifully
+fluted surface of remarkable regularity. These ripple flutings are
+sometimes more than an inch in width, and often less, but the variations
+never appear on the same level, the smallest being seen on the hill-tops
+and the larger outcropping on the downward slopes.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+THE GRAND GULF.
+
+
+Oregon County, Missouri, is also fortunate in having within its limits
+the Grand Gulf, which has been declared by competent judges to be one of
+the wonders of the world; and it offers a combination of attractions
+that certainly entitles it to an important place among a limited few of
+America's choicest scenes.
+
+The Gulf is nearly nine miles northwest of Thayer, Missouri, and about
+equally distant from Mammoth Spring in Arkansas, just a little south of
+the Missouri state line. The drive is a pleasant one, as the road winds
+among the forest-clad hills and passes occasional fields of cotton and
+corn; but having been macadamized in very ancient times by the original
+and all-powerful general government of that early period is somewhat
+rough, yet threatens no danger greater than the destruction of wheels.
+
+The only approach to the Gulf is over the hill-tops; and the entrance in
+past times, while it was still a cave, must have been a sink-hole in the
+roof of the largest chamber. This chamber is now the upper end of the
+Grand Gulf, and into it we descended by a rugged path, sufficiently
+difficult to maintain expectations of grandeur that are not doomed to
+disappointment. The precipitous walls, two hundred feet in height, bear
+a faithful record of the energy of circling floods; but instead of
+frowning, as some good people persistently accuse all noble heights of
+doing, they seem to look with conscious pride towards the windings of
+the great rough chasm, where every available spot has been seized on as
+a homestead for some form of vegetation. All the great, dark rock masses
+that interfere with easy progress along the lowest depth, were
+surrounded by a feathery setting of blooming white agaratum; and each
+turn in the winding course reveals new charms of rock and verdure with
+their varying lights and shadows until the crowning glory is reached at
+the Natural Bridge, about twelve hundred feet from the upper end of the
+canon. This bridge is magnificent. It was impossible to secure
+photographs because the abrupt curve by which it is approached gave no
+point of view for a small camera; and it was equally impossible to reach
+desirable points for taking measurements, but the open arch is not less
+than twenty feet wide and considerably more than that in height. From
+the floor or bed of the Gulf to the road that crosses the bridge is more
+than two hundred feet. The passage under the bridge makes a curve, the
+shortest side of which measures exactly two hundred and nineteen feet,
+and as the width varies from twenty to forty feet, the other side is
+longer. Most of the floor is flat and level as also is the ceiling, the
+greatest irregularities being along the wall of greater length which
+shows at what points the rushing water has spent its force. No water
+flows through here now except in times of heavy rainfall. The other end
+of the bridge has a somewhat smaller span but is very handsome, and the
+outward views from both are exceedingly fine. After traversing about
+four hundred feet more of the beautiful, high-walled Gulf, we stood
+before the grand entrance to the cave, which is strikingly similar to
+the first arch of the bridge. The only picture I was able to get was
+taken from the slope of the Bridge-crown, one hundred feet below the
+road, and merely gives a suggestion of the magnificence waiting
+peacefully for the crowds of eager and enthusiastic sight-seers who will
+in the near future rush to this charming region in the "Land of the Big
+Red Apple."
+
+My companions were the same as mentioned in the preceding chapter, a
+nephew, James Arther Owen, and an obliging, tall young man of twenty,
+who acted as guide and driver.
+
+Relieving ourselves of all superfluous burdens just within the cave
+entrance, we lighted candles and sat down to wait for our eyes to
+adjust themselves to the changed condition, from brilliant sunlight to
+absolute darkness, broken only by the feeble strength of three candles.
+It was noticeable that in the moist atmosphere of the Missouri caves,
+three candles were not more than equal to one in the dry caves of South
+Dakota.
+
+Very soon we were able to continue the inspection of our surroundings,
+and the large passage we were in would more properly be called a long
+chamber, of irregular width but averaging about thirty feet. This ends
+abruptly nearly five hundred feet from the entrance, but a small passage
+scarcely more than six feet high runs off at right angles, and into this
+we turn. It is not quite so nearly dry as the outer chamber, and at a
+distance of less than one hundred feet we suddenly come to the end of
+dry land at an elbow of the silently flowing river whose channel we had
+almost stepped into. The ceiling dipped so we were not able to stand
+straight, and the guide said he had never gone farther; but to his
+surprise here was a light boat which I am ready to admit he displayed no
+eagerness to appropriate to his own use, and swimming about it, close to
+shore, were numerous small, eyeless fish, pure white and perfectly
+fearless; the first I had ever seen, and little beauties.
+
+By burning magnesium ribbon we saw that the passage before us was a low
+arch and occupied from wall to wall by water, the direction of the flow
+being into another of somewhat greater size at right angles to that by
+which we had come, and at the mouth of this lay the boat. The distance
+we could see in either direction was of tantalizing shortness, and the
+boat was provided with no means of guidance or control, save an
+abundance of slender twine which secured it to a log of drift from the
+outside; so I decided to leave my companions in charge of the main coil
+of twine while I went on an excursion alone, there being not much
+evident cause for apprehension as no living cow could ever have made the
+trip to this favored spot.
+
+Although the water looked perfectly placid, the boat drifted with
+surprising speed, so that the two scared faces peering after me were
+soon lost sight of. The channel was nowhere more than six feet wide,
+consequently as the boat inclined to drive against either wall I was
+able with care to keep it off the rocks with my hands, and in the same
+way guide it around the sharp turns in safety. After several of these
+turns there appeared the mouth of a passage so much smaller that the
+roof was only twelve inches above the sides of the boat and I could
+touch both walls at the same time. By running the boat across this it
+was held in place by the current, and I could sit at ease and enjoy the
+position, which even the least imaginative person can readily conceive
+to have been a novel one.
+
+The small eyeless fish had been noticeable in the water everywhere but
+now came swimming about the boat in an astonishing multitude, and as
+unconscious of any possible danger as bees in a flower garden. Having no
+eyes, they were naturally undisturbed by the light, so the candle could
+be held close to the water for a satisfactory examination of the happy
+creatures.
+
+They bore a striking resemblance to minnows, although a few were larger,
+and it is claimed that four or five inches are sizes not unusual, but
+they happened not to be on exhibition. Even dipping a hand into the
+water in their midst occasioned no alarm, and they might have been
+caught by dozens.
+
+The guide now loudly called that he had fears of the twine being cut on
+the sharp edges of rock, and that cutting off all possibility of the
+boat's return, which being sufficiently reasonable, explorations were
+indefinitely suspended, and a landing soon made. The camera and
+flash-light were then prepared for taking a view, and a point of light
+being needed to work by the nephew was asked to sit in the boat with his
+candle, to which he readily consented; but judging from the developed
+picture it may be doubted if his pleasure at the time was extremely
+keen.
+
+On leaving the cave the guide said it would not be necessary to return
+to the upper end of the Gulf in order to reach the surface, as the
+ascent could be made in another place; and leading the way to the left
+of the entrance he started up the nearly perpendicular wall, more than
+two hundred feet high, by a sort of "blind trail" that would have caused
+a mountain sheep to sigh for wings, but it was very beautiful.
+
+We walked over to the wagon road on the high ridge above the middle of
+the bridge and going down the forest-clad slopes to the perpendicular
+wall in which is the smaller of the great arches, admired from this fair
+point of view the marvelous grandeur of one of the greatest natural
+wonders.
+
+The weather being perfect after a rain the day before, there was no need
+of haste to get indoors, so we lingered into the afternoon and then
+drove to the Mammoth Spring, in Arkansas, a short distance south of the
+Missouri state line, where the Cave River, just visited, comes to the
+surface in a bounding spring of great force. The distance being little
+less than nine miles.
+
+The basin filled by the Spring might be called a lake, as its size of
+two hundred by three hundred feet gives it that appearance, and the
+color is a remarkable deep blue. The volume of water is so nearly
+uniform that the height seldom varies more than two or three inches,
+but three years ago a storm of unusual violence carried out most of the
+native fish, and in restocking from Government supplies, the clear, cold
+water suggested an experiment with mountain trout which are found to be
+doing well.
+
+Where Mammoth Spring flows out its power is utilized by a flour mill on
+one bank and a cotton mill on the other, and the water flowing on forms
+Spring River, well known for the charm of its beautiful scenery.
+
+This Spring is described by Dr. David Dale Owen in his First Report of a
+Geological Reconnoissance of the northern counties of Arkansas, 1857 and
+1858, pp. 60-61.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+THE BLACK HILLS AND BAD LANDS.
+
+
+In order to thoroughly appreciate and enjoy the wonderful caves of South
+Dakota, which are found within the limits of the Black Hills, it is
+necessary to have some knowledge of the geological character and history
+of that peculiar region.
+
+Prof. J.E. Todd, State Geologist, in his "Preliminary Report on the
+Geology of South Dakota," gives an interesting "Historical Sketch of
+Explorations" in his state, beginning with the expedition of Captains
+Lewis and Clark to the upper Missouri regions in 1804-6 to explore that
+portion of the recent Louisiana Purchase for the government and notify
+the Indians of the transfer; and including all other important
+expeditions since that time down to his own official tour of the Black
+Hills and Bad Lands in 1894. His own descriptions are so concise and
+graphic as to invite quotation. Of the Hills he says:
+
+"The Black Hills have an area of five-thousand square miles of a rudely
+elliptical form with its major axis, approximately, north-northwest.
+Most of this area lies within our state. The true limit of the Hills is
+quite distinctly marked by a sharp ridge of sandstone, three hundred to
+six hundred feet in relative height, which becomes broader and more
+plateau-like towards the north and south ends. This ridge is separated
+from the higher mass of hills within by a valley one to three miles in
+breadth, which is known as the Red Valley, from its brick-red soil, or
+the 'race course,' which name was given it by the Indians because of its
+open and smooth character, affording easy and rapid passage around the
+Hills. The junction of the outer base of the Hills with the surrounding
+table lands has an altitude of three thousand, five hundred to four
+thousand feet. Within this Red Valley one gradually ascends the outer
+slope of the Hills and soon enters, at an altitude of four thousand five
+hundred or five thousand feet, the woody portion of the region. This
+outer slope varies greatly in width and is underlaid by older
+sedimentary rocks, cut in almost every direction by narrow deep canons.
+This feature covers nearly the whole of the western half of the Hills
+proper, where erosion has been less active on account of its distance
+from the main channels of drainage. Usually, from the broken interior
+edge of this slope or sedimentary plateau one descends a bluff or
+escarpment, and enters the central area of slates, granite, and
+quartzites, which is carved into high ridges and sharp peaks cut by many
+narrow and deep valleys and ravines and generally thickly timbered with
+the common pine of the Rocky Mountains. Toward the south, about Harney
+Peak, the surface is peculiarly rugged and difficult to traverse. Toward
+the north, also, about Terry and Custer peaks, a smaller rugged surface
+appears; but in the central area between and extending west of the
+Harney range is a region which is characterized by open and level parks
+much lower than the surrounding peaks and ridges."
+
+The Archaean rocks which form the core of the Hills mark the center of
+the various uplifts which have attended their formation and controlled
+their history. The coarse granite of Harney Peak indicating that, as the
+central point of the earliest upheaval, and the three porphyries known
+as rhyolite, trachyte, and phonolite, showing the uplifts of later
+periods to have had their centers a little more to the north, but the
+entire area is said to be only about sixty miles long and twenty-five
+miles in width. It is exceptionally rough and mountainous, and
+consequently has great charms for the lover of fine scenery. Erosion has
+only partially denuded the peaks of the sedimentary rocks through which
+they were thrust up, or by which they were overlaid during the earlier
+part of several subsequent periods of submersion. The Hills, in these
+remote times, led but a doubtful and precarious existence, being now an
+isolated island rising out of a shallow sea, and then, owing to a
+general subsidence, submerged in the ocean to so great a depth that even
+Harney Peak is supposed to have almost, if not entirely, disappeared.
+This up and down motion continued at intervals until the Fox Hills epoch
+of the Cretaceous Age, at the close of which the sea retired forever
+from that portion of the country. In the next epoch fresh water work
+began and extensive marshes were formed, with an abundant growth of
+vegetation and reptiles. There was also much volcanic violence which
+resulted in the fine scenery in the north end of the Black Hills, and
+probably opened the fissures to form Wind Cave, the Onyx Caves in the
+southern hills and Crystal Cave near the eastern edge toward the north.
+This was near the close of the Cretaceous Age. But here is a point on
+which the best authorities who have studied the porphyry peaks, have
+failed to agree; Prof. N.H. Winchell believing that the intrusion
+occurred, probably, during the Jura Trias, but as Cretaceous beds, of
+more recent date, are found to have been distorted by the outflow, it
+seems that Professors Todd, Newton and Carpenter hold the stronger
+position and that the later time is correct.
+
+No record of the next geological stage, which was the Eocene, or earlier
+part of the Tertiary Age, has been found in the Hills, because they were
+at that time dry land with gently flowing, shallow streams, and
+consequently no strata were laid down; but they are supposed, through
+later evidences, to have had a tropical climate and vegetation, enjoyed
+by large animals of strange new forms. The volume of fresh water
+afterwards became so great that immense lakes spread over large portions
+of the west, one of which occupied most of the region around the Black
+Hills at the beginning of the Miocene, and animal life was more abundant
+than ever before and of higher orders, many species being the same as
+are now in existence. The weather became more and more inclement and as
+the storms increased the erosion of the Hills also increased, and the
+rivers changed to torrents with deep channels. Earthquakes are supposed
+to have occurred and also volcanic eruptions.
+
+The Black Hills were now rising steadily, and as the slope of the
+streams increased, the channels cut deeper, and the fissures now known
+as caves had long been filled with water.
+
+The most important of the numerous animals of the Tertiary Age yet
+discovered in the Hills and surrounding region, are the Titanotherium or
+Brontotherium, similar to our Hippopotamus, the Oreodon, and a small
+horse having three toes on each foot. A little later in the same Age
+the horses were similar to those of the present time and of equal size,
+which proves that the wild horses of the West were not descended from
+the few lost by the Spanish Invaders. At this time the first lions,
+camels, mastodons, and mammoths also appeared. The remains of these
+animals are so abundant in places as to indicate that they perished in
+herds that were overwhelmed suddenly by great floods, and many, no
+doubt, huddled together and perished with cold; for with the beginning
+of the present age the Hills had reached their highest elevation, the
+inclement weather increased, and the tropical climate suddenly changed
+to one extremely cold. It was the beginning of the Glacial Period or Ice
+Age, when a large portion of the United States is supposed to have been
+covered by a sheet of ice. The ice is believed to have entered South
+Dakota from the northeast and its drift across the state limited by a
+line so closely following the present course of the Missouri River that
+many of us would be inclined to consider it the western bluff. Beyond
+this line the ice failed to push its way, but the Hills were subject to
+heavy rain storms that filled the streams and carried large quantities
+of bowlders and other eroded material, both coarse and fine, down into
+the valleys and over the lower hills, where much of the moderately
+coarse can now be seen exposed on the surface, and fine specimens
+collected without the use of a hammer. The brilliantly colored, striped
+and mottled agates, and the bright, delicate tints of the quartz
+crystal, are particularly attractive to the majority of visitors. The
+beauty of these gaily colored rocks is quite extensively utilized by the
+inhabitants of the southern and southeastern hills to supply the place
+of growing plants which are generally denied by the inconvenience of the
+water supply. The quartzite of the Hills is well crystallized and heavy.
+I have one beautiful specimen of the dark Indian red variety through
+which passes a narrow line of pale blue, and the yellow quartzite or
+jasper sometimes shows dendrite markings. Very great quantities of
+agates and jasper, mostly in small pieces, but unlimited variety, are to
+be seen in portions of the Bad Lands, south of the fork of the Cheyenne
+River, with an almost equal abundance of baculites and numerous other
+fossils.
+
+The wide expanse of deep ravines and sharp, barren ridges in the Bad
+Lands is a unique departure from the usual phases of natural scenery
+that inspire interest and wonder, but no great admiration, until one
+soon learns that the law of compensation has been strictly observed. The
+beauty of vegetation denied those desolate buttes and ridges is atoned
+for by a marvelous abundance of most wonderful crystals of aragonite,
+calcite, barite and satin spar; each to itself, or two or more combined
+in beautiful geodes or else arranged in great flat slabs crystallized on
+both sides of a thin sheet of lime. These slabs are composed of crystals
+of uniform size and of a pale green tint. But the geodes show some
+striking combinations of both crystals and colors with an exterior
+formed like box work, composed of a very heavy dark material said to be
+a mixture of barium, calcium and iron. The interior may be a bright
+green or lemon yellow, or perhaps the two in combination, while others
+yet may be either of these varieties with the addition of flat crystals
+of almost transparent satin spar. These crystals also occur in masses of
+the same box-like formation rising just so much above the surface of the
+barren ridge they occupy as to give it the appearance of a prairie dog
+town. One hill-top over which an abundance of detached crystals, of the
+palest water-green tint, has been spread, gave the impression of being
+covered with crushed ice. This transformation from a richly tropical to
+a marvelously barren region, was accomplished during the time when
+storms reigned over the Hills and ice ruled the country to the north and
+east.
+
+The long slender barite crystals of a bright golden brown color are
+especially beautiful but are generally seen in the specimen stores, as
+the deposit is confined to limited areas and the few persons familiar
+with the locations are not over anxious to introduce the general public.
+
+The fossil remains previously referred to are of course only a few of
+the most important, but it is remarked as a curious and notable fact
+that among the fossils of the lower orders of life in the Bad Lands, the
+heads have not been preserved. On account of scarcity of water it is
+necessary for parties to carry a supply even when they expect to be in
+the vicinity of the Cheyenne River and probably ford the South fork, as
+these waters carry in solution a quantity of alkali that renders them
+unfit for drinking, although the effects would not be fatal but simply
+the extreme reverse of pleasant.
+
+No caves have been discovered in the Bad Lands, unless that name be
+applied to some of the geodes which are really grottoes, they being of
+sufficient size for a man to stand in. The Black Hills, however, contain
+some of the most remarkable caves ever yet discovered, of which those of
+greatest importance are Wind Cave and the three Onyx Caves near Hot
+Springs, in the southeastern part of the Hills, and Crystal Cave near
+Piedmont, in the northeast. All of these occur in the Carboniferous
+Limestone which forms an outer belt around the central mass or core of
+the Hills and no doubt, as previously suggested, owes its fissures to
+earthquakes which preceded or accompanied the porphyry intrusions by
+which in some localities its strata have been thrown into a vertical
+position.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+WIND CAVE.
+
+
+Wind Cave was discovered in 1881 by a hunter named Thomas Bingham, who
+being weary of a fruitless chase sat down to rest, and was soon startled
+by the sound of rushing wind on a calm day; and at the same time by a
+singular hair-raising sensation, as his hat was lifted from his head and
+thrown high in the air. He is said to have afterwards declared that
+although frightened nearly out of his wits, he determined to find the
+cause of his alarm, and on turning slightly discovered a hole about
+eight by twelve inches in size through which a roaring wind was issuing
+from the earth. As his hair maintained the aggressive attitude taken,
+the recovered hat could not be returned to its usual place, so an hour
+was spent in laying it across the opening and watching its instant
+projection into upper space; after which he set out to tell of the
+wonderful discovery. The announcement, however, was not received
+seriously and he was assured of the impossibility of the wind blowing
+through a hill of solid rock, and his brother explained to him that he
+had been too self-indulgent and consequently imagined the whole affair.
+A protest of total abstinence failed to inspire confidence, but the
+brother promised to go the next day to see for himself, and did. The hat
+was again placed over the opening as before, but instead of taking the
+expected lofty flight, it was drawn in and has never since been seen:
+the current had reversed. Soon after this the hole was enlarged to
+eighteen by thirty inches and the cave entered by quite a number of
+venturesome persons assisted by a long rope and ample personal courage.
+No other improvements were made, and only a short distance was explored,
+until Mr. J.D. McDonald settled on the property in 1890; since which
+time he and his sons have explored ninety-seven miles of passage and
+done such extensive work in opening up small passages and placing
+ladders, that it is now possible for visitors to travel long distances
+with surprising ease and comfort. The measure of distances in the cave
+is not by the usual guess-work method which has established the
+short-measure reputation for cave miles, but is done with a fair degree
+of accuracy by means of the twine used to mark the trail in exploring
+new passages. A careful measurement of the twine has shown it to run
+nine balls to the mile with a close average of regularity, so it is the
+custom to add another mile to the cave record as often as a ninth ball
+becomes exhausted.
+
+Wind Cave is twelve miles north of Hot Springs by a good road which
+offers somewhat meager attractions to the artist, but is more liberal
+towards the geologist, and especially so in fine exposures of the gypsum
+bearing Red Beds of the Triassic. Limited patches of it are also exposed
+in each of the caves, generally carrying small quantities of selenite,
+which is crystallized gypsum, or in other words, crystallized sulphate
+of lime. This brilliant red color is so prominent in portions of the
+Hills, and attracts so much wondering attention in other well known
+regions of the West, that it would seem an unpardonable neglect of
+opportunity should we fail to again quote Prof. Todd for an explanation
+of the cause of the vivid coloring. Commencing he says: "Newton remarks
+concerning this:[4] 'A large percentage of peroxide of iron in the red
+beds, to which they owe their bright red color, bears an interesting
+relation to the absence of fossils. The material of which sediments are
+formed is derived, by the various processes of denudation, from the
+rocks of older land surfaces. Whatever iron they contain is dissolved
+from the land and transported in a condition of protoxide and some proto
+salt, such as the carbonate, and the process is facilitated by the
+presence of carbonic acid in the water. Now iron occurs in these older
+rocks as protoxide and peroxide, the former of which is soluble and the
+latter insoluble in water. The peroxide, however, by the action of
+organic matter, such as is held in solution in boggy waters, may be
+deprived of a portion of its oxygen and converted into protoxide and
+thus be rendered soluble. If the iron-bearing water is confined first in
+a shallow basin and exposed long to the action of the atmosphere the
+protoxide of iron absorbs the oxygen and is precipitated as an insoluble
+red peroxide of iron. If, however, plant or animal life be present in
+sufficient quantities, this oxidation is prevented. In case but little
+foreign material, clay or sand, has been brought by the waters, the
+deposit will be an iron ore. In case large quantities of foreign
+material are deposited from the waters at the same time, there will be
+produced, in the absence of life, a brown or red clay or sandstone, and
+in its presence a white or light colored formation containing the iron
+as a carbonate. We reason therefore from the condition in which the iron
+is found in the red beds, that there could have been little or no life,
+animal or vegetable, in the water from which it was deposited. The
+conclusion is strengthened by the fact of the large quantities of gypsum
+which are usually derived from the evaporation of saline waters. The
+degree of saline concentration which the precipitation of gypsum
+indicates, would be highly inimical to life. The presence of gypsum
+helps to account for the absence of life, and the absence of life
+accounts for the brilliant color. The three prominent characteristics of
+the formation (that is the red beds) are therefore quite in harmony with
+each other.'" (Geol. Blk. Hills, p. 138.)
+
+Continuing the subject, Professor Todd says: "Accepting this explanation
+of the striking red color, the question remains as to how these
+circumstances, favorable for its formation, were produced.
+
+"This red color is quite common in the whole Rocky Mountain region, not
+only on the eastern slope of the mountains, but to the various detached
+members of the system. We must, therefore, look for some extensive
+condition. If we seek some case in the present, parallel to the one
+already indicated, we perhaps can find none better than one on the
+eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, where, because of dry climate and the
+shallow waters, the deposition of gypsum and salt is now going on. In
+the gulf known as the Kara Boghaz, which is separated from the Caspian
+by a narrow strait, the evaporation is so rapid as to produce an almost
+constant flow from the sea into it. This strait and this gulf give the
+impression to an unlearned observer that there must be a mysterious
+subterranean outlet. The water flows in, carrying with it the salt and
+other soluble minerals. It then evaporates, leaving the salt and
+minerals behind."
+
+This explanation is calculated to afford particular pleasure to the many
+visitors to the Garden of the Gods, in Colorado, who seldom receive
+satisfactory answers to their questions as to the reasons "why." In that
+much visited spot, however, the great mass of the deposit has been
+removed by erosion and the curiously shaped remnants are only such
+portions as were exceptionally hard and consequently withstood the
+action of the submerging waters.
+
+Having made a considerable stop on the way to Wind Cave, we will now
+hurry on, but with good horses and a fine day the drive is one of great
+pleasure. The road gradually rises to higher ground and soon reaches a
+point six hundred feet more elevated than Hot Springs, with a charming
+view of hill and valley distances, and the way then continues over the
+hill-tops. At one point by the roadside a circle of tent-stones still
+marks the spot occupied by Sitting Bull for a week or more after the
+Custer massacre, while he camped here and in the security of his
+commanding position watched the movements of the government troops who
+were in search of him.
+
+Hot Springs and Buffalo Gap are both included in the wide-spread view.
+Beside the road and scattered about in all directions are fine specimens
+of agates and quartz crystal which seem most beautiful and most abundant
+on the hills in the immediate vicinity of the cave, the crystals being
+either rose pink, pale green, yellow, white or colorless.
+
+Arriving at the cave, the entrance is not visible, but between the
+ravine in which it is located and the road, there is the cave office and
+small hotel, on the ravine side of which an outer stairway leads down to
+the cave entrance, over which has been built a log cabin.
+
+On account of the precautions taken for the protection of visitors,
+accidents are so rare that it might almost be said that none occur.
+Every person is required to register before entering the cave and all
+returning parties are carefully counted, although they are usually
+unaware of the fact. They are always accompanied by two guides and
+others are added if the party is large. No one is, on any account,
+permitted to wander in advance of the head guide or linger behind the
+one in the rear.
+
+Within the cabin the immediate entrance to the cave is securely closed,
+and in order that the door may not be forced from its fastenings by the
+roaring wind which shakes it threateningly, it opens in, instead of out.
+This wind suggested the name Wind Cave, and will probably be utilized,
+at no very distant time, to generate electricity for lighting the
+cavern.
+
+The wind is strongest at the surface, and a guide goes down first to
+place lights in sheltered nooks where the force has begun to diminish,
+about fifty feet below the entrance; and here we light our candles
+which, if guarded somewhat, are not extinguished unless the current is
+unusually severe. The balance of the descent of one hundred and
+fifty-five feet from the surface to the first chamber is easily
+accomplished.
+
+This would be the least interesting room in the cave if it were not the
+Bride's Chamber, on account of having once been the scene of a marriage
+ceremony. But no others are in need of assistance of such romantic
+nature, as all are curiously and handsomely decorated, with such a
+charming variety of deposits, artistically massed, combined or
+contrasted, that every step brings fresh pleasure, and monotony is
+nowhere.
+
+Passing from this room by a long, narrow passage, in the walls of which
+are observed many beautiful little pockets of crystals, attention is
+presently called to Lincoln's Fireplace, a perfectly natural specimen of
+the old-fashioned design broadly open in the chimney; doubtless just
+such an one as Mr. Lincoln's good mother hung the crane in and set the
+Dutch oven before. A little beyond and on the opposite side of the
+crevice is Prairie-dog town, not a very extensive town, to be sure, but
+so true a copy that one unfamiliar with the small animal and his style
+of architecture would afterwards easily recognize both. At one time his
+dogship was carried away by a too eager collector, but a letter to the
+suspected visitor brought him home by the next freight.
+
+The Dutch Clock occupies a position on a shelf near by, and all southern
+visitors greet the Alligator as a familiar friend, as all of us joyfully
+meet any acquaintance from home.
+
+A long narrow passage, formerly a "tight crawl," but later opened up by
+heavy blasting, must be traversed before we come to the Snow Ball Room,
+beautiful with round spots of untinted carbonate of lime, as if fresh
+soft snow had been thrown by the handful over walls and ceilings, with
+the additional ornamentation of calcite crystals. In the crevice beyond
+rises the Church Steeple, diminishing regularly, though roughly, in
+size, to a height of sixty feet, but not degraded with the little
+squirming stairway usually seen in Church spires.
+
+The next room is the Post Office, in which we are for the first time
+introduced to the greatest peculiarity and most abundant formation known
+to the cave. Being a newly discovered addition to geology it has no
+scientific name and therefore is simply called box work, because it
+resembles boxes of many shapes and sizes. The formation of the box work
+is generally regarded as an unexplained and unexplainable mystery, but a
+careful study of various portions of the cave shows it in all stages of
+development and suggests a reasonable theory as to the cause of its
+origin and variety of development. The volcanic disturbances which have
+already been discussed as having been responsible for the various
+uplifts and depressions of the Black Hills region, and also for opening
+the fissures which gave the cave a beginning, must have supplied the
+conditions that were necessary to the formation of box work. And these
+preliminary conditions were merely cracks in the rock. By the violence
+of earth movement the limestone has been crushed, probably when the land
+was undergoing depression, prior to the upheaval which opened the great
+parallel fissures. The varying hardness of the rock, as well as
+proximity to the surface, would readily account for the difference in
+size of the fractures, which is from one-half inch to twelve inches; the
+largest being the most distant from the surface. That this crushing was
+done before the salt waters retired from the region, which was towards
+the close of the Cretaceous Age, is sufficiently evident in the fact
+that portions of the Red Beds show similar fractures with the cracks
+filled with gypsum, and gypsum, as we have already seen, is a salt
+water deposit.
+
+After the crushing was done the cracks in the Carboniferous Limestone
+were filled with water heavily charged with calcium carbonate, taken in
+solution from the rock, first from pulverized particles, and afterwards
+by percolation and contact with exposed surfaces. This calcium carbonate
+was slowly deposited in crystalline form, so that in time the cracks
+were filled and the crushed rock firmly cemented with calcite seams. But
+in the meantime the removal of the calcium carbonate had started
+disintegration of the more exposed portions of the rock, which steadily
+continuing, finally reduced the porous body between the crystal seams to
+a soft clay which was gradually dissolved and carried out through small
+imperfections in the thin crystal sheets, leaving the empty box work as
+we find it. But where blasting has exposed fresh surfaces, much of the
+solid limestone carries the box-like sheets of crystal.
+
+The thinnest box work is seen in the upper levels, from which the waters
+retired soonest, and the heaviest and most beautiful is in the Blue
+Grotto, on the eighth level where the water remained longest and its
+diminished volume became most heavily charged. In many places, however,
+there is another heavy variety known as pop-corn box work, which seems
+to be an impure lime carbonate not so finely crystallized as the other,
+but at the time of my visit no explanation had been given of the manner
+of its deposit; and my own theory that it was not formed under water had
+nothing to sustain it until, a few weeks later, while visiting Crystal
+Cave, the work was found in active progress on surfaces occupying every
+position, and the agent was dripping water. In all cases the original
+box work has been in thin sheets of calcite, and the heavy varieties are
+due to later deposits of calcite and aragonite crystals or, pop corn.
+
+The colors are white, yellow, blue and chocolate brown; the last named
+predominating to a great extent in that portion of the cave most easily
+traveled by visitors, and forming the ceiling and a part of one wall in
+the Post Office, where, as has been said before, it first appears. The
+effect is not dreary as might be imagined, and parties are generally
+photographed here because one side of the room is white and greatly
+assists the flash. This is a smooth, perpendicular wall marking the line
+of the fissure and showing the strata of the rock in horizontal position
+whitened with a thin coating of carbonate of lime. All visitors are
+cordially invited to please themselves in leaving cards, letters or
+papers in this chamber, which is reserved for that purpose, and to
+refrain from leaving them in other portions of the cave or defacing the
+walls with names.
+
+Roe's Misery is a long, narrow passage into which, during the early
+times before its size had been increased by blasting, a large man named
+Roe crawled to his sorrow. Being larger than the hole he stuck fast, and
+neither his own efforts nor those of the guides could relieve the
+situation until a rope was sent for, and having been brought, was
+securely fastened to his feet, when a long pull and a strong one finally
+opened the passage. It is told that he claimed to have reviewed all the
+objectionable acts of his life, by which his friends understood that he
+occupied the motionless position not less than three weeks.
+
+Red Hall is very nearly described by its name and is quite a showy room,
+with the bright red walls contrasting sharply with their limited
+ornamentation of pure white carbonate of lime and pearly crystals of
+calcite.
+
+Off to one side of Red Hall is a beautiful little chamber called Old
+Maids' Grotto, probably on account of its trim appearance and ideal
+location. It is so entirely concealed from the view of those passing on
+the public highway, that its existence is not even suspected, until
+special attention is called to its cosiness, and then it is necessary to
+mount an accumulation of great water-rounded rocks in order to obtain
+convincing evidence of its actual reality. It is a long, narrow room,
+shut in by a straight wall sufficiently high for rigid seclusion, or
+protection, without preventing a glimpse of passing events.
+
+A break in the description is made here for the purpose of inserting a
+description, written at the author's request, by Mr. E.L. McDonald. He
+was generally our special guide. He has chosen to describe the route
+taken by the majority of visitors and therefore the balance of my
+observations within those limits are omitted.
+
+All who are familiar with those passages and chambers will observe while
+reading the next chapter that no imaginary attractions are added to the
+existing facts, but many interesting minor points are missing.
+
+Only such changes are made as were agreed to as the condition on which
+he would attempt a piece of work so at variance with his usual
+occupations.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] U.S. Geological Survey. Geology of the Black Hills. Henry Newton, p.
+138.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+WIND CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+THE FAIR GROUNDS ROUTE.
+
+"At 9:30 in the morning the train bringing health-seekers and tourists
+arrives at Hot Springs, a beautiful little city nestled in the
+southernmost foot-hills of the world-reputed Black Hills of South
+Dakota. The choice of a hotel is soon made, and when located, the
+new-comers observe the other guests and acquaint themselves with the
+attractions of the resort. Probably during the day they are approached
+by the solicitor of the wonderful Wind Cave, who explains that the best
+way to reach the cave is by means of the coach and four seen at the
+hotel in the morning, and arrangements are made for the following day.
+The next morning, seated in the tally-ho coach with strangers who are
+soon acquaintances, you start on a beautiful twelve-mile drive to one of
+nature's most interesting sights.
+
+"Immediately after leaving town you begin to admire the scenery and
+enjoy the cool, refreshing breezes, wafted from the mountains to the
+north, down the slopes to the arid plains.
+
+"After climbing a gently sloping 'hog-back' for about eight miles, you
+are at the top of the divide and one thousand feet higher than Hot
+Springs, which may be seen on the left. Looking ahead you can see Harney
+Peak, the highest mountain in the Black Hills district; and on the right
+you see Buffalo Gap, through which the creek runs that heads at
+Min-ne-pa-juta Springs. The Indians used to drive buffalo through this
+gap, hence its name. A small but thriving little town to the eastward
+takes its name from this Buffalo Gap. From here you begin to go down a
+gentle and winding incline to the cave, which is reached all too soon.
+
+"At the office you register and procure tickets, and then have from
+one-half to three-quarters of an hour in which to eat lunch or dine at
+the hotel. Then all congregate in the office, from whence the start is
+made, after every one has put on a cave cap, _not a suit, as such is
+entirely unnecessary_. The guide leads the way to the entrance of the
+cave which is separated from the office by some little distance, and is
+located in the bed of a long since dry run, which in former times has
+bared the carboniferous strata, and within this kind of rock the cave is
+found.
+
+"As the author has asked me for an article descriptive of the cave, I
+will only attempt to say something of our medium length route to the
+Fair Grounds, or in other words, the Fair Grounds' Route. A collective
+description of the whole cave would take months--even years--to
+complete. Besides, the above route is the one most used by visitors at
+the present time.
+
+"On entering the Cave House (a log structure) you will in all
+probability ask from whence comes the murmur of a waterfall. The guide
+answers that it is the rushing current of air at the mouth of the cave,
+sometimes in and sometimes out. Prof. J.E. Todd, in bulletin No. 1, S.
+Dakota Geological Survey, p. 48, says: 'This phenomenon is found to
+correspond with the varying pressure of the barometer, and with its
+single opening and capacious chambers is easily accounted for.'
+
+"The rushing air is sometimes strong enough to require a man's weight to
+open the entrance door. Five days and nights is the longest time the
+wind has been known to move in one direction without ceasing. This is
+one of nature's greatest atmospherical phenomena.
+
+"Some one says, 'Tickets, please!' and into the hole we go, single file
+down a lighted passageway to where we can light our candles. After
+descending about one hundred and fifty-five feet we come into the Bridal
+Chamber (named by some of the earlier explorers before the present
+management took hold of the property), which is eight or ten feet in
+length by twenty feet in breadth. Passing along some distance, the
+Snow-ball Room is entered. It carries this name on account of little
+rosettes of carbonate of lime sticking to the irregular ceiling. This
+room is pretty narrow and some fifty feet in length.
+
+"The Post Office is next and soon reached. The ceiling is covered with
+the box work formation somewhat resembling Post Office boxes. You will
+no doubt wonder why it carries such a common name.
+
+"Just because after searching in what books on geology and other
+sciences we could get, we could not find it described nor any formation
+resembling it; hence its common name, as we have named the pop-corn
+work, frost work etc., from their appearance.
+
+"The dimensions of the Post Office are some eighty feet in length by
+twenty feet in width, with an average ceiling height of probably twelve
+feet. Red Hall is the room next in order, and has on either side a red
+bank of sandy, micaceous clay.
+
+"Just to the left is a very pretty little grotto of box work. This room
+is very odd in make-up. The floor is very rough and dips about fifteen
+feet in its length of sixty feet, and includes a short flight of stairs.
+The lowest end of the room is prettily decorated, and some pleasing
+blends of color attract the eye. To the left is the Old Maids' Grotto, a
+pretty little nook that would please any maid old or young.
+
+"After passing through the White Room we turn to the left along the
+crevice, and after traveling some little distance reach The Grand Opera,
+a very narrow room but some forty feet in length. Chopin's Nocturne is a
+small grotto in the right hand wall named by the famous violinist,
+Edouard Remenji.
+
+"The Devil's Lookout is reached by a few steps. It is a crevice about
+ten feet wide at the base and sixty-five feet in height. This place is
+remarkable for its columns of rock just over head. The pathway leads to
+Milton's Study, some fifty feet distant. Turning into the crevice again,
+some twenty feet are traveled when attention is called to Seal Rocks.
+Sampson's Palace is the next room in order: here we see some stalagmitic
+water formation on the left wall and the ceiling is one of the most
+beautiful yet seen on the trip.
+
+"We pass along to Swiss Scenery, a very prettily decorated room fifty
+feet in length by fifteen in height. The box work is very pretty,
+shading from yellow to dark brown. The general appearance of the room
+would suggest its name, it being rougher than any other in the immediate
+vicinity. Passing under an arch we enter the Queen's Drawing-room. Here
+the box work has been developed beyond any on our pathway thus far. From
+the ceiling it hangs like draperies and on the left wall is about
+twenty-four inches in depth. On the whole this room is elegant enough
+for the most exacting queen. We step from this room into the M.E.
+Church. Rev. Mr. Hancher, President of the Black Hills Methodist
+College, was I believe the first to hold song and prayer service in this
+room; the pulpit is on the left as you pass through. The guides always
+ask if any wish to sing or worship, as any one has a perfect right in a
+dedicated Chapel.
+
+"The Giant's Causeway is only a few steps beyond. This bit of scenery
+has some resemblance to the famed basalt attraction on the coast of
+Ireland. We 'duck' our heads under the Arch of Politeness and rise to a
+standing position in Lena's Arbor, a very irregular shaped room admired
+by a great many of our visitors.
+
+"We enter Capitol Hall at the side, about midway between the ends. It is
+the largest room yet visited, being some two hundred feet from end to
+end, with a very high ceiling. Here we notice the walls and ceiling are
+bare of box work and other formation, and are clean and white. The
+decorative appearance exceeds any room yet visited. After getting into
+line again we go down a flight of stairs to Odd Fellows' Hall, a chamber
+that on examination suggests its name. In the ceiling is situated the
+'All seeing eye,' one of the emblems of that august body, and at a
+little distance the 'Three links;' also in the ceiling, and just under
+the latter is situated a rock very much resembling a goat. Attention is
+called to the first appearance of pop-corn work, a very peculiar
+formation resembling pop-corn after it has broken open, and in this part
+of the cave it is quite plentiful.
+
+"We now descend another flight of stairs into Turtle Pass, where a large
+turtle rests beside the path, and just beyond is the Confederate
+Cross-roads, where the fissure is crossed by another forming a cross
+with perfect right angles. The right hand passage is used for specimens
+only; straight ahead leads to the Garden of Eden, the end of our
+shortest route; we take the left hand path and journey through Summer
+Avenue, some seventy feet in length, and reach the Scenes of Wiclow, a
+large and high room, beautifully decorated with box work and pop-corn.
+The ceiling and the left wall from floor to ceiling are fine box work.
+On the right you see dark space, as a very large portion of this room is
+unused, but we pass the Piper's Pig. List! The guide is pounding on the
+Salvation Army Drum, a large projecting rock that on being struck with
+the closed hand gives a sound very much like a bass drum.
+
+"After walking across a short plank we enter Kimball's Music Hall, a
+very beautiful room settled between two crevices and lined with box
+work. Viewing the ceiling from the fissure on the right it is seen to
+be smooth and fringed with pop-corn. In some places the boxes are
+closed, resembling finished honey-comb. Over head box work can be seen
+as high as the light penetrates. On the whole, I think this is the
+finest crevice in the explored cave.
+
+"Looking straight ahead you wonder how the party can travel over such a
+road as presents itself to view, but the guide turns into an arch in the
+right hand wall and enters Whitney Avenue. After walking across the
+bridge over shadowy depths, our pathway lies for some fifty feet in one
+of the most interesting ovens in the cave, at the end of which we enter
+Monte Cristo's Palace by going down a flight of stairs. This room has
+the greatest depth beneath the surface of any of the Fair Grounds'
+Route, which is four hundred and fifty feet. In this room is noticed a
+decided change in the box work, which is much heavier than any seen, or
+that will be seen on this route, and the color is light blue.
+
+"I guess I will give the party a talk while we rest under Monte Cristo's
+Diamonds, a very sparkling cluster, about six inches in diameter, of
+silica crystals.
+
+"After studying the cave, it appears that it did not form in the same
+manner as most others; on account of the absence of sink holes, the
+regular arrangement of the chambers, the regular dip of the rock to the
+south-east from five to ten degrees, and the regularity of the long
+vertical fissures running north-west south-east. In fact, the whole cave
+is made up of these fissures and it seems that the water has entered
+narrow crevices opened by some eruptive force.
+
+"You see small holes eaten in the ceilings and walls in every direction,
+which indicates that the water came from a higher level, and being under
+great pressure, wanted passage out. It seems the cave was a reservoir
+for a long time, then after the water stopped flowing in it slowly
+receded, and in settling the overcharged waters covered the rocks and
+specimens with a calcareous coating, very thin in the upper portions of
+the cave and getting thicker the deeper you go, giving evidence as you
+see, of slowly settling. Had the waters rushed out they would in all
+probability have left the rocks uncoated as in all other caves, with one
+exception, the Crystal Cave, some seventy-five miles to the north of
+Wind Cave.
+
+"As we have some more caves to see we must journey on.
+
+"Taking one last look at Monte Cristo's Diamonds we pass into Milliner's
+Avenue, a very pretty avenue indeed with nearly as many colors as a
+milliner's show-window would present. About mid-way of this avenue we
+cross the bridge over Castle Garden, a room in the eighth tier beneath
+the surface. From this avenue we step into the Assembly Room. Here the
+formations are covered with a gypsum crystal that sparkles with
+wonderful brilliancy. On the right is a passage leading to the Masonic
+Temple, a room that any body of Masons would be proud of could they hold
+lodge meetings in it. The passage on the left is the terminus of the
+Pearly Gates' Route, the longest developed route in the cave. After
+moving along some distance we see the Bad Lands, and then come into the
+Tennis Court. This room has the net in the ceiling and I suppose the
+party can furnish the raquet (racket). On the right hand side of this
+room there is tier upon tier of box work; looking to the left, you
+shudder at the almost bottomless pit just beside the pathway. Here we
+take a rest preparatory to climbing up to the Marble Quarry, a task of
+two flights of stairs. This is a very large room and has the most uneven
+floor, ceiling and walls of any that our visitors see, and is barren of
+specimens excepting in the first part over the stairs where there is
+some box work of very pretty structure and color. Some distance up the
+path we see on one side the Ghost of 'She,' and on the other the Devil's
+Punch Bowl, a large rock with a basin-shaped hole about thirty-six
+inches across and sixteen inches deep, but lo! the bottom has been
+broken out: which is very appropriate as South Dakota is at present a
+prohibition state. A winding path is followed until attention is called
+to the Sheep's Head above an arch over the passage, and the ceiling here
+is of flint, the ledge of which is four inches thick.
+
+"Passing under the arch we enter Johnstone's Camp Ground, so named
+because Paul Alexander Johnstone camped in this room while accomplishing
+the third of his greatest mind-reading feats, during which he remained
+in the cave seventy-two hours. He was locked in his room at the Evans
+Hotel while a committee secreted the head of a gold pin in the cave. On
+their return, after being blindfolded, he led them to the livery stable,
+and securing a team drove to the cave and found the pin in the Standing
+Rock Chamber, beyond the Pearly Gates, and then drove back to the city
+still blindfolded.
+
+"Down one short flight of stairs and we are in the Waiting Room, so
+called on account of persons waiting here while the rest of their party
+finished the trip by climbing up the Alpine Way. This difficult climb
+was made until the route was developed via the Marble Quarry. A steep
+pathway and one flight of stairs now bring us to the Ticket Office, and
+another short stairway leads into the room above, which is the Fair
+Grounds. We enter the right wing, which measures two hundred and six
+links in length and forty-nine in width at the narrowest place. We are
+now in the third level and no box work is seen, but the ceiling (which
+is low) shows many interesting fossils. The central dome is some fifty
+feet in height, and passing to the right the guide seats the party in
+such a position that the frost work on the wall can be seen to
+advantage. This is the largest part of the Fair Grounds and measures six
+hundred and forty-five links long, exclusive of the right wing, and has
+a width of fifty-three links, which with a number of wings added, makes
+it one of the largest under-ground rooms within American caverns.
+
+"A great many visitors look at their cuff-buttons when told we have
+twenty-five hundred rooms included in ninety-seven miles of passageways.
+Of course they do not understand how we get the mileage. In going to the
+Fair Grounds we travel about three miles. In each fissure there are
+eight levels, which makes twenty-four miles of cave from the entrance to
+the Fair Grounds.
+
+"Of the formations in the cave, the different kinds are on different
+levels, the stalactites and stalagmites nearest the surface on the
+second, the frost work on the third. This formation is in most instances
+as colorless as snow. The mode of its formation is not thoroughly
+understood, but is found in such positions as suggest its being formed
+by vapors overcharged as spoken of about the water. It is almost always
+on an over-hanging rock, over or near some fissure leading to a deeper
+portion of the cave. Box work in this level is scattering and fragile:
+in the fourth it is the prevailing formation: in the fifth it is heavier
+and a little darker; in the sixth it varies in style and color, and
+pop-corn appears, a queer formation resembling pop-corn ready to eat. It
+is not so purely white here as in the lower levels, seventh and eighth.
+In the seventh the box work is heavier than any seen on the Fair
+Grounds' Route and the color is nearly blue, having a faded appearance.
+In this tier is also found a good deal of mineral wool, which must not
+be mistaken for asbestos. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen
+inches and at one place where it seems to come out of a hole two inches
+in diameter, and drops down like a grey beard, we have named it Noah's
+Beard.
+
+"In the eighth tier we find very beautiful formations of carbonate of
+lime, and the box work is decidedly blue, the boxes larger, and their
+partitions one half inch thick.
+
+"We have been deeper than the eighth tier but in narrow crevices barely
+admitting a man of average stature. In these the calcareous coating is
+much thicker than in any higher portions of the cave, but very little
+sign of box work is seen.
+
+"Sometimes we make a comparison between the cave and a sponge. Take for
+instance a sponge as large as an apple barrel and there would be holes
+in it as big as a man's thumb and closed hand. Now take a sponge, four
+miles square and five hundred feet deep with holes in proportion to the
+little sponge, and you have an illustration of The Wonderful Wind Cave,
+of Custer County, South Dakota."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+WIND CAVE CONTINUED.
+
+
+PEARLY GATES AND BLUE GROTTO ROUTE.
+
+A very much longer, more beautiful, and also more difficult journey than
+the one just described may be taken by those in whom the desire to see
+is greater than the fear of fatigue, or possibly, some little danger.
+With this object in view the Fair Grounds' Route is followed through
+Monte Cristo's Palace and into Milliner's Avenue. Here we leave it by
+dropping off the bridge into a rough hole, which proves to be a passage
+descending into Castle Garden directly beneath the Avenue, and a room of
+considerable size, plentifully supplied with bowlders. Although
+interesting to visit, it has no points of such special merit as would
+seem to require a detailed account, the main importance attaching to it
+being the fact that it is the first portion of the eighth level visited.
+A little beyond, however, is something quite new. The floor is covered
+with a light yellow crust of calcite crystal, sufficiently strong to
+bear the weight of a limited number of guests without much fracture. It
+generally gives a hollow sound when struck, which is easily accounted
+for as there are small holes noticed by which steam evidently made its
+escape, and through these cavities can be seen but they are shallow. One
+place shows the crust broken up and with the edges of the pieces
+overlapped, like ice broken by a sudden rise of back-water, and in this
+position they have been firmly cemented.
+
+This is where the slowly receding waters of the cave lingered in shallow
+pools above the small crevices long after the main portions had become
+dry. That the crust was formed on top of the water, instead of beneath
+its surface, has been proved by the only body of water now standing in
+the cave. This is called Silent Lake, and being situated on another
+route will be described in its proper place, but when discovered no
+water was visible nor its presence even suspected until the crust gave
+way under the weight of an explorer. The thin sheet of yellow calcite
+crystal thus broken was the same as that seen in great abundance in the
+now perfectly dry eighth level. The gradually decreasing volume of water
+has left a smooth yellow coat on portions of the walls where
+irregularities or slopes were favorable, and at least one such place is
+vividly remembered if once seen. A steep incline of about fifteen feet
+leads to a small oval hole through the wall; towards this we crawled
+with no great ease; but getting to the hole was far easier than going
+through it into a tiny cubby not high enough to sit comfortably upright
+in, and too small to permit an average sized human being to turn around.
+Close on the left it is shut in by another wall pierced by two holes
+similar to that just passed, and each revealing a miniature chamber
+scarcely more than three feet in either direction and eighteen inches
+high. Being directed to examine the ceiling of the first, it was done
+with some difficulty and much satisfaction, for there in the center was
+a most exquisite bit of art work, a circular disk of "drusy" quartz
+about twelve inches in diameter and having the appearance of a flat
+rosette of fine black lace, in open pattern with small diamonds thickly
+strung on every thread; a brilliant, sparkling mass of gems. After Mr.
+McDonald had carefully removed a geode from the other little chamber, he
+slid down into a fourth, the last of the diminutive suite, having
+sufficient height to allow a sitting posture with raised head, and
+opened the small jewel case, while I examined the place it came from.
+Here all was calcite crystal heavily massed in various forms, and a
+harmony of blue and brown, with half a dozen round, unbroken, perfect
+geodes hanging from the ceiling like oriole nests. The geode taken
+proved on opening to be especially fine, being filled with pearly white
+calcite crystals of both the dog-tooth and nail-head forms, and was
+kindly presented to be added to the collection of cave specimens already
+purchased in town, to which were also added handsome pieces of "drusy"
+quartz, cave coral, and tufa and mineral wool.
+
+Following the guide I now slipped down into the larger nook just
+vacated, and saw with considerable chagrin that the next step was down a
+perpendicular wall more than ten feet in height, facing a high, narrow
+fissure, the floor of which was merely two shelves sloping to an open
+space along the middle, almost two feet wide, with the darkness of
+continuing crevice below. Further progress seemed absolutely impossible.
+All things are, however, possible to those who will, and it had been
+willed to pay a visit to the grandest portion of Wind Cave. In order to
+do so the descent must be made and was. Then some little distance must
+be traveled along the crevice, but the angle of elevation taken by both
+sides of the bisected floor served as a sort of prohibitory tax together
+with the calcite paving, since to maintain an upright position on such a
+surface would require long training of a certain professional character.
+That difficulty, too, was overcome by placing a foot on either side of
+the open crevice; the first consideration, of course, being safety and
+not grace.
+
+We now came to the enjoyment of the reward of merit. Flooded with the
+brilliant white light of magnesium ribbon, the crevice walls could be
+seen drawing together at a height of sixty-five feet, and both composed
+entirely of larger box work than any seen before and very heavily
+covered with calcite crystal, colored a bright electric blue and glowing
+with a pearly lustre. This is the Centennial Gallery, and leaving it
+with reluctance we passed on into the Blue Grotto to find it finer
+still. It is somewhat wider and higher, while even the extremely rough,
+uneven floor shows no spot bare of heavy box work of a yet deeper blue.
+
+The wonderful beauty of this Blue Grotto necessarily stands beyond
+comparison because in all the known world there is nothing like it. The
+forms of crystal are chiefly aragonite.
+
+From here we pass to the "Chamber de Norcutt," which would be considered
+a very handsome room if it had no superiors: and the same can be said of
+Union College, in which, however, is the Fan Rock to claim special
+notice; an immense piece of fallen box work shaped like a lady's fan
+half opened.
+
+An imposing vestibule leads into the extensive but rather dreary
+Catacombs, from which we crawled through a little hole into the M.W.A.
+Hall, emerging at the top of a steep but not high slope covered with the
+smooth yellow crust of calcite encountered at other places, and in
+trying to make a dexterous turn so as to go down feet first, the
+descent was accomplished with uncalculated suddenness and an unsought
+but liberal collection of bruises. This, however, was not a happening of
+the unexpected and could have no attention amid scenes of wonder and
+beauty, and we were close to the Geysers. From a scientific point of
+view this is the most important portion of the cave, for here is an
+indisputable proof that the water in the cave was hot and that it was
+subject to geyser action. The surrounding region is covered with the
+crust already described, and at the top of a gentle elevation is thrown
+up in the unmistakable form of geyser cones; there being two near
+together on the surface described, with a third visible through one of
+these on a slightly lower level, this one being a new discovery, as it
+had escaped observation until we called attention to it.
+
+These small cones show that after the degree of heat and the volume of
+water had become reduced to the merest fraction of their former
+greatness, they continued their accustomed work here in the depth of the
+earth long after the once grand old geyser had ceased to show an outward
+sign of life. When the water finally became so reduced even here that
+the steam could no longer force it through, or to these latest vents,
+the last rising vapors fringed their edges with a beautiful snow-white
+border of crystallized carbonate of lime as fine and soft as a band of
+swan's down, which it resembles. In the pure, still atmosphere of the
+eighth level, almost five hundred feet beneath the entrance, this silent
+proof of ancient action will endure for the admiration and instruction
+of many generations yet to come. Few mortals will ever be honored with
+memorials so lasting or so convincing of vanished power.
+
+Proceeding on the journey the next chamber is the A.O.U.W. Hall, a
+large, irregular room, by the rise of which a return to the seventh
+level is accomplished; and the next entered is the Tabernacle, not at
+all resembling the last, although a similar description would be
+correct.
+
+Now is reached what many consider the cave's greatest charm, The Pearly
+Gates. And marvelously beautiful it certainly is.
+
+Approaching by a slightly lower level, we see a gateway opening between
+large rocks that light up with the soft lustre and varied tints of
+mammoth pearls. A wonderful effect is produced by the white calcite
+crystal spread in unequal thickness over the dark surface of the
+encrusted rocks. Just without the gate is a short but not golden
+stairway leading to it, and immediately within is the Saint's Rest, a
+chamber of moderate size beautified by another great rock on which are
+combined the warm, pearly glow of calcite and the cold glitter of frost
+by the later addition of lime carbonate vapor-crystals to the calcium
+carbonate aragonite.
+
+Next beyond is the chamber containing the Standing Rock behind which Mr.
+Johnstone made his famous discovery of the concealed pin-head. It is an
+immense great fallen rock on whose dark surface are scattered
+transparent flake-like crystals of satin spar, resembling the congealed
+drops of a summer shower. The mind-reader entered the chamber by the way
+we shall leave it.
+
+Returning to the spot from which the Pearly Gates were first viewed, we
+stand facing the most beautiful of this imposing group of brilliant
+scenes, The Mermaid's Resort. This is a small cove with wave marks in
+the white beach sand, above which rises a projecting, sheltering cliff
+as purely white as freshly fallen snow, with a fine deposit of frost
+work in thick moss-like patterns two and three inches deep.
+
+This crystalline mass, so white and fragile, has to perfection the
+appearance of hoar-frost about a steam-vent in extremely cold weather,
+and was, no doubt, formed in a somewhat similar manner. It is
+crystallized carbonate of lime, and could have been deposited in such
+extremely delicate forms only by the heavily charged vapors rising from
+hot water. No one needs to be told that hot water will take and hold in
+solution a much larger quantity of solid matter than is possible to cold
+water, with all other conditions the same; nor is it news that a portion
+of the solid substance is carried off in the rising steam. Now the
+geyser cones, so recently visited on the next lower level, prove both
+the heat of the water and its heavy charge of solids, which gave it a
+far more intense heat than pure water could have equaled, and this in
+turn drove the steam to greater distances than otherwise it would have
+reached. When cooled to such a point as to be reduced to a light vapor,
+its movement was checked by various walls, projections, and ceiling as
+were in its upward path, and these received the minute particles of
+burden, while the somewhat brisk motion of the atmosphere, occasioned at
+these points by the mixing of that of higher temperature from below with
+the lower from above, is responsible for the dainty and varied forms
+assumed by the fragile structure.
+
+Once more resuming the journey, we admire the rugged charms of
+University Heights, a somewhat larger and higher room than the next, St.
+Dominic's Chamber, but perhaps not more interesting than the Council
+Chamber, which besides other attractions is to some extent also a
+Statuary Hall. From the Council Chamber the Alpine Way leads up into the
+Fair Grounds directly above. This Alpine Way is a sort of cork-screw
+twisting through the rocks, not unlike a badly walled well, assisted at
+the lowest portion by a short and nearly perpendicular ladder. Next is
+the Assembly Room, or Crown Chamber, as it is also called on account of
+a handsome crown conspicuously placed. This room also contains a Moose
+so perfectly carved that the skeptic who searches diligently for
+imperfections finally clamors for the whole company to celebrate his
+discovery of the artist's noble skill.
+
+Leaving this room we re-enter Milliner's Avenue and soon cross the
+bridge from which, a few hours ago, we descended into the eighth level
+by way of Castle Garden; and now the return to the surface is by the
+route followed before, and we arrive there at last terribly weary, but
+more than well pleased.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+WIND CAVE CONCLUDED.
+
+
+GARDEN OF EDEN, THE GLACIER, AND ICE PALACE.
+
+There is yet another long and charming line of travel open to those who
+have sufficiently steady heads and light feet to suffer no loss of
+confidence or depression of spirit when mounting the steep stairway
+whose limit seems lost in the dark distance above.
+
+There being but the single entrance, a repetition of the worn and
+ancient statement that all roads lead to Rome, means that many journeys
+may be taken in Wind Cave, but all must have the same beginning.
+
+In the tourist season the guides have not time during the day to bring
+out specimens to supply the demand, so on this account night trips are
+of frequent occurrence; and on these occasions the number of persons in
+all that vast space seldom exceeds half a dozen, but their voices and
+laughter, and the blows of their hammers, can be heard at greater
+distances than would seem possible, and give an agreeable sense of
+companionship; yet the voice does not travel by any means so far as in
+other caves.
+
+The evening we were to make the long trip just mentioned, our guide
+being ready before any others had gone in, we started the advance on the
+ninety-seven miles of enclosed, unoccupied space and had almost reached
+the level of the Bridal Chamber when he remembered a forgotten and
+necessary roll of magnesium ribbon, for which it was needful to return
+to the office in the upper building. I sat down on the lowest step of
+the great stairway to wait, and for a very short time was entirely alone
+in the largest cavern in the world, excepting the Mammoth Cave of
+Kentucky.
+
+The unexpected experience seemed suddenly to become one of the great
+events of a lifetime, and was unmarred by the disturbing apprehensions
+of any possible danger. The entire absence of sound was indescribably
+awe-inspiring as
+
+    "Strata overleaping strata from the center to the crust,
+    Rose, Alp-high, in molten silence, as the dead rise from the dust;"
+
+but the feeling of complete isolation from the living world would not
+require an unlimited time to merit the one word--horrible. Even some
+peril with ample companionship would be more agreeable, while it is a
+curious fact that the combination of companionship with silence is
+charming. On the occasion of one visit to the cave it was painful to
+observe the actual suffering of a lover of quiet, from the
+good-natured, but heedless, chatter of two of the party.
+
+Presently steps on the stairs broke the stillness, a glimmer of light
+pierced the intense darkness that surrounded the circle of one candle,
+and the upper world seemed not so far away.
+
+The interrupted journey was resumed, the route being that already
+described as far as the Confederate Cross Roads, where, this time, we go
+straight on in the main fissure instead of turning into the
+cross-crevice, as was done before.
+
+We were overtaken by the specimen party and recognized the three
+laughing young girls only by their voices, as in full suits of overalls
+and white duck caps, they looked like boys. Those who reside near the
+large caves have overcome their objection to this costume, as it gives
+much greater freedom and ease of movement, besides being a decided
+economy. Feminine garments are so easily destroyed, but for artistic
+effect the substitute cannot conscientiously be recommended.
+
+Beyond the Cross Roads the first chamber is Breckinridge Gallery, a
+long, rambling hall in which are combined the attractions already passed
+and those yet to come, but having no striking feature predominating to
+give special character other than the grandeur of extreme roughness,
+which is also the quality most observed on passing into the Stone
+Quarry, where great accumulations of blocks seem waiting preparation for
+shipment.
+
+The next "open country" is protected from public trespass by the Garden
+Wall, which appears to have been well built in the long ago by masons
+properly trained in their craft, and extends, at a uniform height, to
+the Fallen Flats, where the floor is covered with slabs of enormous size
+that have fallen from the ceiling since water occupation ceased, as is
+clearly shown by the sharp edges and surfaces entirely unworn.
+
+The journey now becomes more interesting as the Cliff-Climbers' Delight
+is reached, and we go steadily up the long nights of stairs until
+visions of St. Peter begin to rise and we wonder which way the key will
+turn. Near the top is a handsome growth of snow-white mold hanging in
+long draperies behind the ladder or spread like on asparagus fern
+flattened against the rock.
+
+Arrived at the top limits of the stairs the ascent is by no means
+finished, but continues through three large chambers known as Five
+Points, the Omaha Bee Office--named by one of the staff of that well
+known journal--and the W.C.T.U. Hall, dedicated to the service of the
+organization by one of its workers.
+
+[Illustration: Top of Glacier. Page 155.]
+
+At last the upward journey is ended at the Silent Lake in the first, or
+highest, level. This, as has already been observed, is the only body of
+water now standing in the cave, and is not more than ten feet long by
+six in width and twelve inches deep. The scanty volume is maintained by
+the very limited inflow of acidulated percolating water which reaches
+the small receiving basin charged with calcium carbonate; and being
+cold, the charge is being precipitated on the bottom instead of forming
+a crust over the surface as in former times when the controlling
+influence was a degree of heat sufficient to sustain solid matter
+without disturbing motion.
+
+Rising above the Silent Lake is the Glacier, its moist surface
+suggesting that the lake is fed by a slight thaw, while the
+perpendicular front at the water's edge gives the impression of a berg
+having recently broken off and floated away.
+
+The Glacier flows between two high walls of dark rock, and the steep
+incline of perhaps seventy feet, covered with a smooth deposit of
+calcite and shining with moisture, has the appearance of ice and is as
+uninviting for a climb. The top is connected with the roof above by a
+group of short, and for this region, heavy columns of dripstone, the
+oldest formation of that character in the cave.
+
+An occasional overflow of the lake passes out to one side, then turns
+and goes under the Glacier where its first few feet of descent are
+called the Pearl Beds, where a variety of water-polished pebbles are
+being coated over and cemented together with calcite crystal.
+
+From the Glacier down to the lowest level of the cave by another route
+than that taken for the ascent, there is abundant evidence that at one
+time this portion of the cave was subject to excessively violent
+activity, and if studied with a view to the penetration of the principle
+of geyser action, offers many interesting and valuable suggestions that
+can be added to and expanded into definite theories in connection with
+the balance of the cave; all important requirements are clearly shown.
+
+At a short distance from the Glacier is a small circular dome, called
+the Picture Gallery, which evidently was shaped by water forced up from
+below. The descent from here takes us into the St. Louis Tunnel, a long
+rough passage leading down into the great Cathedral, by the still
+descending irregularities of which we finally reach the Garden of Eden,
+the objective point of a favorite tourist route, but usually approached
+from the opposite direction. It is a large chamber of very irregular
+shape, with an extremely uneven ceiling, dipping nearly to the floor and
+rising suddenly to distant heights, while every portion of all the
+varied surfaces glitters with a mass of frost work in every form it is
+known to have assumed; the banks of orange buds in different stages of
+expansion being exceptionally handsome. A portion of this wonderful room
+especially admired is Cupid's Alcove, where the frost is tinged with a
+pinkish flush from the brilliant paint clay captured in minute particles
+by the vapors. The whole room is a marvel of loveliness, but
+unfortunately visitors have wrought such noticeable damage that wire
+screening must be placed before the general admittance of large parties
+can be resumed.
+
+Passing out and down to a lower level, by way of Jacob's Well, we find
+the source of that magnificent abundance of frost work to be in the
+Chamber of Forbidden Fruit, where a yellow calcite floor-crust indicates
+the surface level of water diminishing in volume by evaporation long
+after the upward flow had forever ceased, and from which the rising
+vapor ascended to decorate the Garden of Eden, just described. But since
+this water completely disappeared, leaving in evidence only the
+record-bearing crust, a percolating drip has prepared indisputable proof
+of the remote distance of that time by depositing on the crust great
+clusters of luscious fruits, chiefly cherries, which appear to have been
+carelessly tossed down in heaps, but are firmly fixed in place.
+
+The onward journey continues up and down through Beacon Heights, a large
+chamber which imitates Rocky Mountain scenery and terminates at the
+Corkscrew Path which, as the name indicates, is a spiral path winding
+down like a great stairway against the wall of an approximately circular
+chamber which is perhaps the highest in the cave, and shows the most
+violent water-action. The plunging torrent rushed on from here to tear
+out the heavy rock and form the next chamber, known as Dante's Inferno,
+whence, its force being divided, it went more gently in various
+directions. And by one of these passages we now re-enter the main route
+of travel once more, and finally return to the face of the earth,
+wondering if it will be possible to so describe those wonderful scenes
+as to represent with even a limited degree of fairness or justice the
+awe-inspiring grandeur of the entire trip, or the perfection of fragile
+loveliness formed and preserved as by special miracles in the Garden of
+Eden.
+
+One peculiarity of this great journey was that the box work, so abundant
+in other portions of the cave, was here conspicuously absent.
+
+
+THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
+
+Another route in Wind Cave is that to the Crystal Palace which, although
+the shortest, is the one most seldom taken by visitors, because of a
+certain amount of difficulty and discomfort being unavoidable. Only a
+portion of the great stairway below the entrance is descended, when we
+abandon it and climb into a hole in the side-wall of the narrow passage,
+from which point to the end of the trip our feet prove to be merely
+encumbrances.
+
+The space crawled into and through widens sufficiently in several places
+to form chambers of good size, but the height of the ceiling is nowhere
+more than three feet and most of it only two or even less. The rough
+rock floor is partly carpeted with patches of loose moist clay, which is
+the means of our becoming as grimy as tramps, and its source is readily
+accounted for by an examination of the ceiling. This is easily made
+while resting one skinned elbow at the expense of the other. The word
+"abraded" is inadequate where anything approaching real cave study is
+attempted.
+
+The box work of the ceiling has almost entirely lost its
+crystallization, and is as ready to crumble as the enclosed clay, which
+is still retained because it had not yet reached the necessary point of
+deterioration to be carried out before the great volume of water,
+required for that service, retired from this high level of the cave.
+
+When finally reached, the Crystal Palace proved worthy of the effort,
+its decoration being entirely of dripstone and very beautiful, although
+on too small a scale to be compared with similar work in many caves: it
+is merely an attractive "extra" in Wind Cave, and not one of the
+important attractions that give the Cave the rank that may have a few
+equals but no superiors.
+
+The first room is scarcely more than twelve feet in either direction and
+not quite six feet high. The glassy ceiling is thickly studded with
+small stalactites from two to eighteen inches in length, and mostly of
+the hollow "pipe stem" variety, from which the surplus drip rests in
+white masses on the clean floor around a central bowl of good clear
+water.
+
+Down the middle of the wall directly opposite the entrance a rushing
+little white cascade has congealed, and on either side just under the
+ceiling is a hollowed-out nook closely set with short stalactites and
+small columns, all pure white.
+
+Near by but not connected is another room too well filled to permit an
+entrance, but a portion of the wall having been carried out a
+satisfactory view is not denied. Here the floor rises to within three
+feet of the ceiling, and the deposit is much heavier, so that many fine
+columns rise from bases that spread and meet or overlap. If the cave had
+no greater claim to notice than these small drip rooms, it would still
+be worthy of a visit.
+
+The effort to secure flash-light pictures could only be considered
+successful because there are none better to be had.
+
+The atmosphere of Wind Cave is marvelously fresh and pure, and possesses
+in a high degree the invigorating quality which in most caves renders
+unusual exertion not only possible, but agreeable as well. In all the
+chambers and passages there is little change in the quality of the air,
+and thorough tests with a standard thermometer showed the variations on
+the different levels, from the highest to the lowest, to be about 2 deg.;
+but on different days the range was from 45 deg. to 52 deg. This curious
+state of affairs some one else will have to explain.
+
+The only forms of life ever found in Wind Cave are a small fly and the
+mountain rat.
+
+While visiting the cave, every one connected with it was most kind and
+obliging, especially in showing those beautiful and difficult portions
+that few visitors are so fortunate as to see. While this is very far
+from being a complete description even of the parts visited, it will
+serve to show what a truly grand cavern is located at the south end of
+the Black Hills.
+
+The elevation at Hot Springs is three thousand, four hundred feet, and
+that of the entrance to the cave is four thousand and forty feet. A
+source of disappointment in connection with Wind Cave is that its fine
+scenery cannot be effectively pictured.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE ONYX CAVES.
+
+
+Northwest of Hot Springs there is a group of three onyx caves, the
+distance to them being estimated at from seven to ten miles, if the
+party does not get lost, which is the usual fate of those who dispense
+with the service of a driver familiar with the country. In going, the
+longer way, over the hill-tops, claims a preference on account of
+distant views with a favorable light. When the Onyx Cave Ranch is
+reached its scenery is found to be charming, with an ideal log house
+overlooking the canon, and itself overlooked by the rising slope of the
+wooded hill. The entrance to the cave is in the opposite wall of the
+canon, and is covered by a small cabin, at the door of which the view
+demands a pause for admiration; then the party disappears down a narrow,
+rough, sloping passage of sufficient height for comfort to none but know
+the value of comparative degrees. It soon appeared, however, that
+personal comfort would travel only a short distance. The mud increased
+with every step, and in its midst was a small hole through which it was
+necessary to pass to the next lower level. This hole being so small and
+its walls slanting, the only way to accomplish the first half of the
+descent was to sit down in the mud and slide, stopping half way to
+examine a fine ledge of beautiful striped onyx, white and a brownish
+pink, the first outcrop in the cave, but in the next level it is seen in
+rich abundance and variety; the colors being red, black and white, brown
+in several shades and pure white. All are handsome and of commercial
+quality and hardness; and just above them is a ledge of fine blue
+marble.
+
+The next chamber is called the Bad Lands, on account of a certain
+resemblance to that desolate region. The way into it is through the
+Devil's Corkscrew, a most uninviting passage because it stands on end
+and is about twelve feet deep with circular, perpendicular walls
+discouragingly free of prominent irregularities; but careful study
+reveals a few available crags and rough edges, by which the descent is
+made. Fortunately the party decreased in size just within the entrance.
+Climbing up into a hole in the wall of this room, with no little
+difficulty, the Aerial Lake is the reward of a breathless upward
+struggle, and a satisfying one. The Lake is very small, but under its
+clear surface can be seen numerous growing deposits of calcite, while
+the roof of onyx gleams with a mass of small white stalactites.
+
+Returning again to the main route and traveling to the end of a short
+passage we beheld the entrance to Red Hall, a piece of rope ladder
+dangling half way down a perpendicular wall, the other half having no
+help whatever. The way was clear so far as the length of the ladder, and
+with trust in the future soon learned in cave work that distance was at
+once passed, and sitting on the very narrow ledge to cogitate on the
+possibility of further progress, Mr. Sidey solved the problem by
+suggesting, rather doubtfully, that the easiest way would be to drop off
+and allow him to interrupt the fall. This method had twice proved the
+only means of advance in Wind Cave and can be termed rapid transit. The
+walls of Red Hall are of stratified limestone variegated with patches of
+red rock, and clay of the same gay hue. It is the highest chamber in the
+cave and probably the largest. A hole in the wall at the floor level,
+near the entrance to the passage beyond, gives a glimpse of the cave
+river flowing on a slightly lower level, not over two feet below the
+floor we stand on. The water is said to have a depth of fifteen feet,
+and a rock thrown in gave back the sound of a splash into water not
+shallow. Entering the passage already referred to, its dimensions
+decreased to a crawl and then to a squeeze, so that most of its length
+was taken in a very humble position, which permitted no regard to be
+paid to the ample mud or little pools of water that must be serenely
+dragged through as if carrying them away were an agreeable privilege.
+Even a muddy passage ends in time, and at last we gained a standing
+point and after a short climb were in Fairies' Palace, a marvel of
+dainty beauty, and worthy of the distasteful trip just taken. We stood
+in a narrow passage that divided the small chamber like the central
+aisle of a cathedral, above which the white roof formed a Gothic arch
+from which depended countless little stalactites and draperies, while on
+either side, six feet above the passage, was a floor of onyx supporting
+exquisite columns of which the highest are not more than three feet.
+Only a short distance from the Fairies' Palace is the almost equally
+beautiful Ethereal Hall, and connecting the two I had the pleasure to
+discover a small arched passage more beautiful than either.
+
+[Illustration: Fairies' Palace. Page 165.]
+
+Although much of the cave was still not visited, the long drive to town
+demanded a return to the surface, but several stops were made on the way
+to admire masses of onyx and groups of curious forms in deposits of that
+fine stone. One high, crooked chimney above the Corkscrew is especially
+fine and correspondingly difficult for a grown person weighted down with
+garments dripping mud and water; but Kimball Stone, our boy friend,
+scampered up like a squirrel.
+
+Two of the Onyx Caves had not been seen at all and Mr. Sidey expressed
+special regret on account of the latest discovery as no woman had ever
+yet entered it; but the sun was low in the west and the road had some
+dangerous points that must be passed before dark, so the reeking skirt
+was removed and without waiting to dry by the great fire kindled for the
+purpose we hurried off, promising to return if possible, and carrying
+treasures in specimens, besides an ancient lemon, which may not be
+called a fossil, since soft substances are said not to fossilize; but
+however that may be, this is a perfect lemon whose particles have been
+replaced with the lasting rock in the same way as the numerous Cycad
+trunks in the same region have been preserved to prove to us
+conclusively that formerly the region flourished under tropical
+conditions, and supported an abundant animal life of tropical nature and
+habits.
+
+Soon after leaving the ranch, we descended by a sort of goat-trail-road
+into a grandly beautiful canon, along the bed of which the road
+continues until it flows out as the water did in ages gone. By this time
+it had become quite dark, and the chill of the northwest night formed a
+combination with saturated clothing that cannot be highly recommended as
+a pleasure; but the natural chivalry which prompted our young escort to
+insist on lending his own coat, and his evident disappointment that the
+sacrifice was not allowed, afforded a pleasure that will continue.
+
+
+THE WHITE ONYX CAVE.
+
+A few days later it was convenient to return to the Onyx Cave ranch with
+the special object of entering the newest cave, which could be done with
+the assistance of seventy feet of rope. While necessary preparations
+were pending, a walk up the canon was proposed. At a distance of perhaps
+a quarter of a mile above Onyx Cave evidence was seen of a very
+remarkable form of ancient life. It is not the usual few bones but is a
+cast in the rock of the canon bed of an animal clothed in its flesh. The
+appearance of the head, neck, body and wings is preserved, but the tail
+and four limbs have been carried away by eroding waters which even now
+have not quite forsaken the canon. The containing stratum is not seen in
+the canon wall, and near the lower end of the canon a fine white
+sandstone crops out beneath. We ask: "Was the canon cut to its full
+depth while yet a Cretaceous sea was depositing beach-sand, and did the
+earliest horse, with wings, appear at the close of that period? Or, did
+an animal with fore limbs developed, retain its wings into Miocene time
+and leave record of its life in an arm of the Tertiary lake?" The body
+is that of a horse with wings attached to the shoulders. The head is
+unlike that of a modern horse, being much shorter and more rounded, but
+the parted lips give a glimpse of the teeth of a young horse. If only
+the feet could be found, I feel assured they would prove that the
+three-toed horse of ancient time, so abundantly in evidence throughout
+this region, was possessed of wings and in some way furnished the idea
+of Pegasus.
+
+A few feet further down the canon are a pair of twisted wings that show
+the animal to have perished in company with its mate, while trying to
+escape from a sudden flood that rushed down the canon like a moving
+wall.
+
+After some uneasy discussion about the means of entering the new cave,
+it was finally decided that the available rope was too short and not of
+sufficient strength. This was, of course, a disappointment but not a
+surprise, as a very peculiar quality in the rope used to enter caves of
+this kind had come to notice before. The peculiarity is, that a rope
+entirely above suspicion for the safety of a two hundred pound man, at
+once weakens and must be condemned when threatened with one hundred
+pounds of woman's weight, yet there is an implied compliment hidden
+somewhere about this protective system that tends to reduce the sting of
+disappointment.
+
+So it was agreed to spend the afternoon in the White Onyx Cave, which is
+generally spoken of simply as the Upper Cave because it occupies a
+higher level than the Onyx Cave already described, and is supposed to be
+an extension of the same although no connecting passage has been
+discovered.
+
+The accompanying friend had not been costumed for caving, but was
+persuaded to accept a full suit of overalls, which needed the addition
+of a pick and pipe to make the picture perfect. Unfortunately a snap
+shot failed.
+
+The entrance is in a perpendicular portion of the canon wall, but a
+narrow path that starts some distance away and appears in eminent danger
+of falling off, makes most of the ascent comparatively easy; and the
+balance is completed by a short ladder whose rounds dip toward the canon
+bed in a rather alarming manner, but this only proves the folly of
+giving too much heed to appearances, for it is strong and firmly
+fastened to the rocks.
+
+Just within the entrance there is height sufficient for standing, but
+the roof descends suddenly and the walls come near together, reducing
+the passage to a crawl, and showing that in past times water poured in
+at this opening and not out as might be supposed. The first chamber
+entered is the Crystal Gallery, but it is so nearly filled with great
+masses of pure white onyx no standing room remains. Drops of water on
+portions of the onyx ceiling here are the only moisture remaining in
+this cave. When Mac's[5] head came in contact with the roof he called to
+the guide: "See here, little boy, you ought to sing out 'low bridge' at
+that sort o' places, 'cause when I'm busy hunting a spot to set my foot
+in, I can't see what my head's coming to, and I like to mined a lot o'
+this rock with it."
+
+Slowly, and with no danger and less comfort, we creep over, under and
+between great massive beds of the fine white crystalline rock until at
+length we enter the Ghost Chamber where no onyx has been deposited, but
+where numerous mountain rats have evidently been at home for many years,
+if we may judge from the enormous quantity of pine needles with which
+they have carpeted the floor. The walls show small box work crumbling to
+dust, and Ray climbed high into the chimney-like opening above our
+heads, but reported that it ended suddenly and had no attractions to
+offer.
+
+Coming out, the way was somewhat varied, but more difficult, as the
+passages through the onyx beds were more irregular and more nearly
+closed; Onyx Hall being only a fair specimen of the marvelous results
+achieved here by the persistent regularity of an uninterrupted but slow
+drip, continued through hundreds of years.
+
+[Illustration: White Onyx Masses. Page 170.]
+
+[Illustration: Looking out of White Onyx Cave. Page 171.]
+
+It is surprising that in all these heavy beds there is no line or
+tint, or slightest trace of color anywhere, while the other Onyx Cave,
+so near as to suggest connection, has a gorgeous variety of rich
+coloring.
+
+The view looking out from the entrance of White Onyx Cave is wonderfully
+fine, and equally so whether the rain falls or the sun shines, a timely
+shower giving us an opportunity to enjoy both.
+
+Before leaving the ranch, a promise was made by Mr. Sidey to write a
+short description of the other cave, which he kindly did, and it is here
+given. He says:
+
+"In trailing a deer I came across a hole on top of a long divide. On
+throwing a rock down the opening, I could hear it rattling against the
+walls until the sounds gradually died away, but there seemed to be no
+bottom to the hole, and I resolved to come again prepared and make
+explorations. After the snow had gone my twelve-year-old son, Ray, and
+I, mounted on our trusty horses, Bonnie and Dee, equipped with ropes,
+candles, hammers and a pocketful of matches, set out to explore the new
+cave. It was a beautiful, bright spring morning, and after an hour's
+hard climbing over fallen timber and rocks, we reached the summit of the
+mountain. A search of half an hour revealed the opening which was barely
+large enough to allow me to pass through.
+
+"Fastening our ropes securely to a stout log rolled across the chasm, we
+began to pay it out, and although we did not feel it touch bottom, I
+started down to explore, the length of the rope at least. As I descended
+I found the opening gradually widened out to eight or ten feet, a sort
+of inverted funnel-shaped hole with irregular wall but smooth and
+affording little footing. As I neared the bottom I saw the end of the
+rope was within four feet of it, so I landed on terra firma and called
+to Ray, 'All right, come down!'
+
+"Lighting our candles we found ourselves standing on a mound of pure
+onyx, and on looking around could see we were in an immense cavern,
+whose walls sparkled and glittered as if studded with diamonds. Going
+down twenty feet we found a smooth-floored room that measured three
+hundred feet in length, twenty five feet in width, and thirty feet in
+height. The walls were solid white onyx lined or banded with pink and
+golden stripes. The ceiling was arched, and draped in fantastic shapes,
+and hung with stalactites innumerable. The room was so large and the
+drapery and festooning so delicate and beautiful, that we were filled
+with awe and could not speak for a time.
+
+"At last we started to further explore this wonderland. On going to the
+farther end of the room we found a passage leading on. This we followed
+for a hundred feet and found the whole cavern lined with onyx and
+crystals clear as glass. After loading up with specimens we retraced our
+steps and on reaching the large room we had first entered we heard a
+roaring, rumbling noise. An awful noise truly, which filled us with an
+unknown dread.
+
+"On approaching the entrance we saw a stream of water pouring down,
+completely filling the hole.
+
+"For a moment we felt like rats caught in a trap, our only way of egress
+occupied by a stream of water falling straight down seventy feet, and
+then we wondered how long it would take to fill up the room.
+
+"Suddenly the thought that there might be an outlet for the water gave
+us new hope, so we went to see and sure enough we found a natural
+water-course down through an opening we had overlooked. We gathered up
+courage once more, and thought the best thing would be something to
+occupy our time. So we set to work getting out more specimens and in a
+couple of hours the water stopped running and we were ourselves once
+more.
+
+"Ray grasped the rope, which was soaking wet, and went up the seventy
+feet, hand over hand, like a cat. I, being heavier, found it quite
+different from going down. The rope played whip-cracker with me for some
+time and before reaching the top I was covered with bruises. But
+daylight never appeared so beautiful before.
+
+"Here we found the cause of so much water. A cloud-burst had occurred on
+the Divide and a large portion of it had poured down the passage way to
+the cave.
+
+"We found our horses patiently waiting for us and night closing in.
+Mounting we rode rapidly home, resolved never to venture into this cave
+again without leaving some one at the entrance to give warning in case
+of danger.
+
+"John F. Sidey."
+
+The first specimen taken out was given to us on our first visit to the
+ranch, and is pure white with a stripe of brilliant golden yellow.
+Having been invited to give a name to this new find it seems quite
+proper after reading the description of the deluge and seeing the bright
+bands of color, and considering the hopeful promise of future
+possibilities, to call it The Rainbow Cave.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Colored driver.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+CRYSTAL CAVE.
+
+
+South Dakota can boast of yet another cave in the Black Hills that was
+formed by volcanic disturbance of the rocks and afterwards decorated in
+a manner peculiar to itself. This is Crystal Cave. It is nine miles from
+Piedmont in the eastern edge of the Hills, and easily visited from that
+point by way of the narrow-gauge road, which winds along the natural
+curves of the beautiful Elk Creek canon, whose walls are said to expose
+a depth of almost a mile of geological strata, although the exposure at
+any one point does not exceed three hundred feet.
+
+The disappointment of not having seen this cave during the summer visit
+to the Hills grew as the weeks passed, and a request that the owner
+should send a description was answered with an assurance that it was
+impossible. Therefore, on Friday, November 13th, 1896, with a small
+nephew, Herbert A. Owen, Jr., for company, the trip was undertaken a
+second time to complete the unfinished mission.
+
+The first glimpse of the Hills is at Edgemont in the early morning, but
+the train makes its way to the north through the heart of the uplift,
+twisting about the curves of the hills and clinging to the sides of a
+beautiful canon whose high walls give way here and there to fine slopes
+densely covered with forests of pine and spruce. These look black in the
+distance and suggested the name of Black Hills to the Indians, who
+always have a reason for the names they give even to their children.
+
+There are great tracts where fire has killed part or all of the timber
+but left much of it standing, while in other places nature has defied
+the power of fire and the hills are re-clothed with young trees. A
+recent storm had further beautified the region with a few inches of
+snow, but as the day advanced a chinook began to blow so that when
+Deadwood was reached, soon after noon, only the northern exposures
+retained an appearance of winter.
+
+Deadwood is a most peculiar little city and very attractive in its
+peculiarity, being crowded snugly into a depression between a number of
+steep pine-wooded hills, which gives an appearance suggestive of a
+bird's nest securely located among the forks of a branching tree, and as
+is the case in a nest, business is chiefly transacted at the lowest
+depth of the enclosure. As the busy center of a great gold-mining
+region, the metropolis of the Hills, and the outgrowth of an exciting
+historical past, it claims and receives interesting attention. And while
+the whole Black Hills region is still distinctly a man's country, it
+is called woman's paradise, and surely nowhere else are the daughters of
+Eve received with a more gracious courtesy or surrounded by an equally
+unobtrusive protecting care.
+
+[Illustration: Approaching Deadwood. Page 176.]
+
+The streets leading up to the residences lack very little of standing on
+end, and the houses appear to have been hung in place by means of hooks
+and wire cord like pictures on a wall. The smelter has no reception day
+but admits visitors as if their pleasure were a guarantee of profit.
+
+The finest scenery in the Hills is said to be that of the Spearfish
+Canon, north of Deadwood, and the finest of that at the Falls, but this
+may be doubtful as other points are very beautiful, especially where the
+Burlington & Missouri Road requires a distance of seven miles to climb
+the canon wall.
+
+Piedmont being the nearest town to Crystal Cave, we took the early
+evening train on the Elk Horn Road and soon were located, and shocked to
+learn that the proprietor of the cave had started several days before to
+drive to Wind Cave for specimens. The cave was closed and no one there.
+The trip had been taken for the one purpose of exploring Crystal Cave,
+and a letter sent in advance to announce our coming, but the train
+carrying it was an hour late so he drove off without the mail.
+
+There seemed at first nothing to be done but take the next returning
+train, which, under the circumstances, was objectionable. A night's rest
+and a telegram that had to be sent twelve miles by special messenger,
+improved the situation. The proprietor was unavoidably detained at Wind
+Cave, but secured a reliable guide, expressed me the cave keys, and has
+since married the "specimen" he had gone in quest of. May great
+happiness dwell at the cave many years!
+
+The morning of the third day after our arrival found arrangements all
+complete, and soon after the train left Piedmont it entered Elk Creek
+Canon, which is always beautiful, but on that morning was exceptionally
+so on account of a sudden change in the weather having covered every
+visible portion of the passing landscape with heavy frost. The trees on
+distant hills that ordinarily are black, were, for once, all softly
+white, and when the tall pines in the canon were shaken by a breeze,
+they cast a shower of flakes like snow.
+
+Here the canon walls are in Carboniferous Limestone with a pleasing
+variety of color in the strata, and the erosion-carving not overdone,
+the most notable piece being the Knife-blade. This, at first view,
+appears to be a high, round tower, but the train following the curve,
+reveals the fact that it is not a tower, but a thin, curved
+knife-blade. The sun just for one instant shone through a rift in the
+clouds, and added special charm to the scene.
+
+[Illustration: The Knife-Blade. Page 178.]
+
+A short distance beyond is Crystal Cave station, where the guide was
+waiting to take us in charge. He is an intelligent young man who has
+served an enlistment term in the army, is recently married, very
+obliging, and proud of being trustworthy.
+
+The scenery here is most beautiful as well as grand. The canon makes a
+sharp turn toward the south, and on the north opens out into another
+canon of even greater beauty and higher walls, the perpendicular being
+three hundred feet in places. Crystal Cave is in the hill embraced by
+the junction curve. The natural entrance is more than two hundred feet
+above the canon bed and was naturally approached from above. A short
+walk up the north canon, whose name has unfortunately slipped away, was
+over ice and snow the chinook had failed to reach, and brought us to a
+long stairway against the wall, which affords a more direct approach
+than nature gave and is a fair test of physical perfection.
+
+Finally a resting place is reached where the grandeur of the view can be
+enjoyed; and then a shorter stairway completes the ascent of the wall,
+but not of the hill, so there is still a considerable upward walk
+through the forest of tall pines all carpeted with brilliant mats of
+kinnikinic with its shining leaves, glowing in shades of green and red,
+trying to rival the bright scarlet berries. The kinnikinic here
+resembles the wintergreen of the east, while in the mountains in
+Colorado it grows in the form of a shrub two to three feet in height,
+but with no variation in the leaf or berry.
+
+At last perserverance is rewarded with a view of the cave buildings and
+the summit of the hill rising yet higher beyond, and tall, straight
+pines swaying in the rising wind over all.
+
+One of the two houses was entered and preparations quickly made for
+entering the cave, the artificial tunnel entrance being only a little
+distance further on.
+
+The door was unlocked, candle-sticks taken from a shelf within, candles
+from the guide's supply lighted, and we went forward at last, into
+Crystal Cave. At the end of the new tunnel, a second door was passed
+through, which is locked on the inside during the visiting season by the
+last guide to enter, in order that no chance late arrival may enter
+alone and be lost.
+
+The first room is a small one at the junction of the natural and
+artificial entrances, from which we go upstairs to the Resting Room, in
+the highest level of the cave, and perfectly dry but otherwise of no
+special interest. After a short rest here we went down stairs at the
+side opposite that on which we entered, into a passage leading to the
+cave's first beauty, the Red Room. As the name indicates, the walls are
+vividly colored and represent the uncertain line which separates the
+Carboniferous strata from the Triassic rocks. The color is handsomely
+brought out here in contrast with masses of calcite crystal, so as to
+present by the combination a charmingly beautiful room, from which we
+retired, feet first, down a "squeeze" to the Bridal Chamber, where we
+found ourselves perched on an irregular narrow ledge, high up on the
+wall, and cherishing a private conviction that exploration had met a
+checkmate; but the guide reached the floor and my nephew, Herbert,
+scrambled down with as much ease as the chipmunk he had chased to the
+house top a while before; so a little application settled the difficulty
+and re-united the party. The room is an artistic study in red, and the
+only reason for its being called the Bridal Chamber is that the way out
+is decidedly more rough and difficult than that by which the entrance is
+effected; this, however, is an observation not based on official
+information.
+
+Off to one side of this room is Lost Man's Paradise, also in red and
+crystal, named in honor of the timely rescue of one who had faced the
+possibility of becoming a lost soul.
+
+Another Fat Man's Misery, on a lower level, leads from the Bridal
+Chamber to the Big Dome, a large room with a fine dome-shaped ceiling
+from which heavy masses of crystals have fallen to the floor; and down a
+steep incline from here is Reef Rock, an immense fallen rock with box
+work on the under side, which at one time served to ornament the
+ceiling; and now this rock marks the beginning of Poverty Flat, a broad,
+low passage of great extent, that has been robbed of all its wonderful
+treasure of crystal and ends in a steep, rough declivity named Bunker
+Hill by the guides who dreaded to mount it when going out loaded with
+specimens. At the foot of the Hill is a bowlder of enormous size and
+with a pointed top, known as Pyramid Rock and giving the same name to
+the large room in which it stands.
+
+Every portion of Crystal Cave has at one time been heavily crusted with
+calcite crystals, mainly of the dog-tooth variety, and any barren places
+are so either because the surface has been removed for specimens, or
+thrown down by the violence of an earthquake. But where the latter has
+been the cause of removal, the crystals have in most cases been renewed,
+which is amply evidenced by the fallen masses being crystallized on all
+sides; and these as well as most of the walls, are not covered thinly
+with one crust, but layer has been added to layer until the thickness
+is four to ten inches and often more. The ceilings that have been
+denuded by nature's forces during the same early period when water
+filled the cave were also renewed.
+
+From the Pyramid Room a narrow fissure forms a passage to the Cactus
+Chamber, where there is a marvelous floor on which the crystals are in
+bunches like cacti, and the beautiful ceiling is the finest and most
+irregular unbroken mass of crystal yet seen.
+
+Passing through a round hole known as the Needle's Eye, we enter
+Statuary Hall, where the latest inrush of water has eroded the sharp
+points from the crystals, leaving only smooth surfaces, and at the same
+time done much curious carving, the most conspicuous pieces of this work
+being a bear and the heads of an Indian and his baby.
+
+Out from the Hall are two important routes, one down the steep incline
+of Beaver's Slide to The Catacombs, and another, which we followed
+first, is through Rocky Run, a rough and rocky pass, to a large and
+handsomely crystallized chamber called the I.X.L. Room, on account of
+those three letters, over twelve inches in height, being distinctly and
+conspicuously worked in crystal on a magnificent piece of box work that
+would weigh nearly half a ton, for which an offer of five hundred
+dollars is said to have been refused.
+
+The next chamber beyond is Tilotson Hall, very large and extremely
+rough, and named in honor of a teacher from the Normal School, who
+delivered an address here that gave much pleasure to both visitors and
+guides.
+
+The way to farther advance is now more difficult and through a jagged
+crevice of threatening appearance, but the trip is made in safety and
+with comparative ease, and brings us into Notre Dame, one of the largest
+chambers in the cave and perhaps the finest, although where so much is
+fine that may be uncertain. The display of box work and crystal is
+sufficiently gorgeous to do honor to the famous old cathedral of France,
+the ceiling especially being a masterpiece of the builder's and
+decorator's arts; but the grandest portion, which a visitor recently
+returned from foreign travel called The Russian Castle, on account of
+the magnificence of the large box work and pearly crystal masses, should
+rather be known as the great cathedral's crowning glory, The Altar.
+
+Another large room, the handsome Council Chamber, is entered just as
+that Altar of pearl is lost to view; and from there an up-hill trip is
+taken through a narrow crevice to Whale Flat, which is the natural
+history room, with a large whale as the show specimen.
+
+Going out from here we enter another crevice which serves as a steep
+stairway descending to a lower level, and measures from top to bottom
+one hundred and eighteen feet. This is called Rip Van Winkle's Stairway,
+and although merely a high and crooked crack in the rock, is very
+beautiful because heavily coated with crystal, the effect being
+especially striking at the top where the crystal is partly worn away and
+leaves exposed patches of red rock.
+
+At the foot of the Stairway is the first room containing water, and is
+called the Gypsy Camp. It is the most charming chamber yet visited, with
+not the smallest spot of plain or common rock visible. The ceiling,
+walls, floor, and groups of fallen rocks, are all unbroken masses of
+pearly calcite in crystals of varied sizes, with here and there a patch
+coated over with pure white carbonate of lime, or supporting a bunch of
+fragile egg-shell, which is a thin, hollow crust of lime carbonate,
+almost invariably having the pointed form of the dog-tooth spar. And
+there are also beautiful mats and banks of dainty white carbonate
+flowers. While waiting here for the guide to go in quest of the lunch we
+had carelessly left behind, the time was utilized in measuring the room,
+which is a small one. The size of the cave and our limited time for
+seeing it, prevented much-desired measurements from being taken in all
+parts of the cave.
+
+This room was found to be forty-eight feet long, the irregular width
+varied from fourteen to thirty feet and the height from four and
+one-half to ten feet. The crystal water basin is especially beautiful
+and the water so clear that we stood looking into it with
+disappointment, being thirsty and thinking it dry, until the guide
+laughingly dipped and offered a cupful. The basin is the segment of a
+circle rounding beneath a massive, overhanging crystal ledge of
+wonderful beauty, and is nine feet long by two in width. This room and
+the Stairway into it are alone worthy of a visit, but there is much that
+is finer still.
+
+Out of Gypsy Camp by way of Gunny Sack Crawl, so named by the workmen
+who spread gunny sacks to relieve the torture of crawling over the
+beautiful floor of sharp crystals, we enter the first chamber, where
+active operation is still maintained and certain branches of the great
+decorative industry of the cave may be carefully studied. This operative
+chamber, which is unnamed, would no doubt be called a factory in the
+east, but in its own locality would more likely be referred to as The
+Works.
+
+The next chamber entered is Crystal Flat, whose floor is completely
+covered with immense crystal blocks, and the wonderful crystal ceiling
+is exceedingly fine. But time being limited we must pass on into the
+Lake Room, where is Crystal Lake, the largest body of water in the cave.
+It is about thirty feet long by fifteen wide and its greatest depth
+is said to be ten feet. The water is cold and clear, and the gold fish
+introduced as an experiment three years ago are said to have grown
+rapidly but not yet turned white, and are not known to have become
+blind.
+
+[Illustration: The Bridal Veil. Page 187.]
+
+At some little distance from Crystal Lake, and not within the same range
+of vision, although in the same room, is Dry Lake, which to the surprise
+of the guide we found to be not dry, but full of limpid water through
+which we could distinctly see the delicate clusters of crystals it is
+depositing. They are of a pale honey yellow and are called Gum-drops on
+account of the resemblance to that variety of confection.
+
+The name Dry Lake was given because in blasting out a passage a
+misdirected shot went through the bottom of the Lake, which in
+consequence was soon drained; but the heavily charged water has sealed
+up the unfortunate break, and resumed its interrupted work. The ceiling
+drops to a height of little more than three feet directly above the Lake
+margin, and is a beautiful crystal mass, which at a little distance down
+the sloping floor appears as the background for a fine piece of cave
+statuary called The Bridal Veil, and formed of cream-tinted dripstone.
+Not a great deal of imagination is required to see a slender girlish
+figure completely enveloped in the flowing folds of a wedding veil that
+falls lightly about her feet. The figure itself is three feet ten inches
+in height and stands on an almost flat circular base of the same
+material, that measures nine inches in depth and two feet eight inches
+in diameter. At times the water rises sufficiently to cover the base, in
+proof of which it left a fringe-like border of small sharp crystals,
+such as could be formed only beneath the water's surface. Most of this
+border has, unfortunately, been chiseled off for specimens, but will be
+renewed in time if left undisturbed; and that condition can easily be
+secured with a few feet of wire netting.
+
+To one side of this room is a most daintily beautiful alcove so
+profusely decorated with fragile forms of dripstone that a passage
+through it without causing damage is extremely difficult. This alcove is
+about twenty-five feet in either direction, with a sloping floor almost
+covered with stalagmitic growths above the earlier deposit of sharp
+crystals, and many of these rise in slender columns to the glass-like
+ceiling, which varies in height from three to six feet and is thickly
+studded with small stalactites of both varieties--the pointed, solid
+form, and those of uniform size, which are always hollow like a pipe
+stem. The central ornament is the Chimes, a musical group of stalactites
+which is scarcely more beautiful than Cleopatra's Needle, at a
+distance of a few feet to one side, a transparent column four feet
+in height and having an average circumference of seventeen inches.
+
+[Illustration: The Chimes. Page 188.]
+
+[Illustration: The Needle. Page 188.]
+
+[Illustration: Tower of Babel. Page 189.]
+
+The Abode of the Fairies is a similar, though smaller room, with The
+Tower of Babel for a handsome show-piece. While this portion of the cave
+is extremely attractive, the measurements given show that in comparison
+with caves of other states the drip deposit here is too small to be
+reckoned an important feature in itself, but in conjunction with the
+miles of calc-spar that give the cave a character distinctly its own, it
+well repays all attention.
+
+Leaving Lake Room we enter a newly opened, long, dry passage to Slab
+Room, where a comparatively recent earthquake has shaken down the
+ornamental ceiling and spread it in great slabs over the floor; and
+having since remained perfectly dry it has the appearance of being the
+work of yesterday. This room is remembered as the one in which a party
+of workers were lost, and one of their number gave a severe nervous
+shock to the junior proprietor by suggesting that as he was acting as
+guide and unable to lead them out, it was only right that he should be
+the first victim to satisfy their hunger. A rescuing party with
+extinguished candles was listening behind a rock to the blood-curdling
+speech, and came forward to restore cheerfulness.
+
+A long, irregular, frosty looking crevice called Jack Frost Streak,
+conducts us from Slab Room and ends at Mold Ladder, on which we pause to
+admire a wonderful growth of snow-white cave vegetation, before
+ascending into Santa Claus' Pass, the longest passage in the cave. It is
+a rough crevice named from the fact of being discovered on Christmas
+Eve, and ends at the Government Room on the main tourist route where a
+U.S. pack saddle and apparently portable bath tub are conspicuous.
+
+Next beyond is a very large room named New Zealand, on account or its
+icy appearance and the undisputed possession of a seal. This room in
+turn opens into Mold Chamber, where an old board platform, formerly used
+for the display of specimens, has fostered the most marvelously
+beautiful growth of mold: it hangs in ropes five and six feet long, with
+tasseled ends, and in broad, looped draperies; but is most beautiful
+where it has taken possession of the rocks and spreads out on the flat
+surface like large open fans, with deep, soft feather borders.
+
+Having been in the cave eight hours, we now followed the outward passage
+from Mold Chamber and soon reached an open trap door where the guide
+suggested to Herbert that he would be afraid to go down alone and allow
+him to close the door; but the child surprised him by quietly stepping
+down and then asking why he wished it, only to be told "because we are
+coming too." Which we did and found ourselves in the main entrance
+passage, and in due time returned to the outer world where a terrific
+wind was roaring through the tall pines and the early winter evening had
+already closed in dark.
+
+The guide locked the cave, walked with us to the house where he lighted
+a lamp and left us to prepare for the return to town; but the lamp,
+belonging to a bachelor, was empty, so we made our preparations in
+imitation of the blind. On the guide's return he lighted a candle, but
+suggested that twenty minutes were generally allowed for reaching the
+station.
+
+The house was accordingly closed and as we walked down the long, curving
+slope to the stairway, he told of a new and unknown bob-tailed wolf that
+has recently made its first appearance among the hills in considerable
+numbers and to the terror of stock. It attacks and bites horses or
+cattle, and after waiting for the fatal poison inflicted to take effect,
+falls to and eats the victim.
+
+The uncovered platform which serves as a station being reached a few
+minutes before the train arrived, I expressed an unwillingness to detain
+our guide longer on account of his having a walk of four and a half
+miles to his home; but he declined to consider the subject; saying he
+had been directed not to leave us until we were taken safely on the
+train, which came sweeping round the curve on time and stopped for us.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+CRYSTAL CAVE CONCLUDED.
+
+
+According to agreement the guide again met us at the station on the
+following morning, for another day in the cave, which we entered with no
+unnecessary loss of time, and hurrying through the main entrance
+passage, Government Room and Statuary Hall, went down Beaver Slide,
+which, on the previous day, we had passed to enter Rocky Run. Our
+descent into the crevice took us past those portions known as Suspension
+Bridge and Rebecca's Well, and over some very "rough country" to the
+most wonderful parts of the cave. Numerous passages open out in various
+directions; one to rooms of frost work of great beauty; another to the
+Ribbon Room where the drip deposits on the walls are in ribbon-like
+stripes of red, yellow, and white, while others yet are ways to the
+Catacombs. And it is the Catacombs we particularly wish to see, as they
+most perfectly represent the individual character of the cave and have,
+as yet, received no injury from either time or man; but is a region as
+difficult to travel as the way of the transgressor, and many miles can
+be traversed with no prospect of coming to the end. But where locomotion
+is so slow and painful, the owner of a pedometer would find that
+instrument a discouraging companion and soon learn better than to
+consult its record publicly.
+
+The Catacombs are a series of connected fissures and small crevices in
+which every inch of exposed surface is covered with clear, translucent,
+almost transparent, calcite crystals, neither coated with lime nor
+stained with clay; nor even is the pearly lustre dimmed with the
+slightest trace of dust. The crystals are very sharp and of all sizes,
+ranging from half an inch to three and a half inches in length, the
+larger sizes being conspicuously abundant. The entire region is an
+enormously large, perfectly formed, and undamaged geode. In reality, the
+whole cave is a great cluster of connected geodes, and a similar work
+probably does not exist, but if it does, has never been discovered. The
+fissures from which it is formed were opened by volcanic violence and
+then enlarged, and afterwards decorated by the varied power of water, in
+action or repose.
+
+When the storms toward the close of the Tertiary period suddenly
+overwhelmed with floods the dense growth of tropical vegetation and
+multitudinous animal life in the Northwest, the waters necessarily
+became heavily charged with the naturally resulting carbonic acid gas,
+and this, acting on the limestone rocks, would decompose them, leaving a
+residual clay and taking the chief portions of the mineral components in
+solution, to be afterwards deposited according to circumstances and
+conditions; and these are indicated by the various results found in Wind
+Cave, Crystal Cave, the Onyx Caves and the Bad Lands. The latter being
+previous to that time by no means "bad," but richly luxuriant in
+tropical vegetation, which gave shelter from the heat to great numbers
+of curious animals.
+
+Some approximate idea of the extreme age of these caves may be gained
+from the fact that bones of a three-toed horse have been discovered in a
+chamber of Crystal Cave that must be practically unchanged since the
+remains were carried in from the outside, as otherwise they would have
+been buried beneath the fallen masses of crystal covered rock with which
+the entire floor is cumbered. And yet this room is so remote from any
+present connection with the outer world that it is impossible for their
+introduction to have taken place in recent times.
+
+In the beautiful Catacombs progress is as slow as in a cactus thicket or
+a blackberry patch. The crevices lack none of the usual crevice
+irregularities; high places must be mounted or descended, chasms crossed
+and narrow passages crawled through, while extra caution must be
+exercised to avoid striking the head or making a misstep that might
+result in a fall. The hands are in constant use and soon become so
+sensitive that holding a soft handkerchief gives infinite relief; but
+the worst experience is the "crawls" where only the soles of the feet,
+being temporarily turned up, seem safe from the savage treatment of the
+sharp calcite dog-teeth. The worst crawl encountered was a small one
+having a downward slope with a jump-off at the end which necessitated
+its being taken feet first. Fortunately it was short. But in no place do
+the difficulties outweigh the pleasure of beholding scenes of such
+beauty, or suggest regret for the time, torn garments, and personal
+exertion required for its enjoyment.
+
+In many portions of the cave the surface layer of crystals has had the
+points worn away by the action of water, later than that in which they
+were formed; but in the Catacombs and other extensive regions as well,
+the finished work of crystallization is preserved in an absolutely
+perfect condition. And everywhere the largest crystals are on the under
+side of a projection or the roof of a cavity.
+
+As the day was passing far too rapidly and many points of special
+interest yet remained unseen, we turned with reluctance from the beauty
+and relief from the hardships of exploration in the Catacombs, and made
+our way over a crevice into Santa Claus' Pass, which was traversed for
+a considerable distance and then abandoned for a low crawl terminating
+at the Senate Chamber. This is a large room extending to Poverty Flat,
+and is brilliantly red and purely white, most of the crystal presenting
+a smooth surface. Under the Senate Chamber there is said to be some fine
+box work which we had no time to visit. The name of this chamber was
+given by a visiting party composed of members of both houses of
+Congress. A smaller room, which is really an extension of the Senate
+Chamber, has handsome walls of white and red box work on account of
+which the same distinguished party called it the Senate Post-office.
+
+From here a difficult crawl, through red rock, well-worn by the action
+of water, leads to the Starr Chamber, another large room in white and
+red, and named by Senator Starr of South Dakota.
+
+Opening out from the last room is a curious, dangerous looking, narrow,
+crevice-chamber known as Suicide Room on account of the threatening
+appearance of over-hanging rocks, some of which have at times fallen in
+great masses of various sizes to form an irregular floor; and a descent
+of this is necessary in order to reach a short and extremely rough
+crawl, beautifully and painfully decorated with sharp crystals above and
+below and on the sides. From this we emerge into Rainy Chamber, an
+elliptical room not less than two hundred feet long by one hundred feet
+wide, with a tent-like ceiling rising high in the center and sloping
+down to meet the floor, which also slopes irregularly toward a deep
+central depression, giving the room a greater height than any other
+visited. The high points are generally seen in the narrow crevices,
+while the rooms of generous length and breadth are usually low, many of
+the largest having an average of five feet or even less.
+
+Although there is frequent intersection of crevices, and each chamber
+has passages leading out on every side, the general direction of the
+cave is said to be northwest-southeast.
+
+Rainy Chamber is named from the fact that during the early months of
+summer water falls constantly in the form of a light shower; but it
+drips at all times, and in consequence there is an opportunity to study
+the active process of formation of one of the deposits which is very
+abundant in Wind Cave and considered the most perplexing. This is the
+pop-corn, and the theories of its origin have been steadily rejected at
+Wind Cave because of a doubt being entertained as to whether it has been
+deposited under water or by drippings. Here in Rainy Chamber it is fully
+explained. Near the center of the room the fallen masses are heavily
+crystallized, much of the groundwork being fine box work and the
+crystals in perfect condition. On these crystals the pop-corn is being
+formed, and specimens can be seen in all stages of development, from the
+beginning to an approximate degree of finish; and whatever the position
+it occupies on the receiving surface, either on top, underneath, or on a
+side exposure, it always maintains the same relative position as growing
+plants on the mundane sphere. The water falling on the upper surface in
+scattering drops forms myriads of minute stalagmites; on side positions
+the falling drop first strikes the point exposed to its line of descent
+and then spreads. The scant moisture slowly makes its way down sloping
+sides and shelving edges, leaving on each small irregularity a tiny
+portion of its volume, to deposit an infinitely small charge of solid
+substance, and the balance finally hangs in moisture less than drops on
+the growing grains of the under surface.
+
+Pop-corn, therefore, is the globular aragonite of the stalagmitic
+variety. A small specimen from Rainy Chamber, placed beside one of the
+same color from Wind Cave, shows them to be absolutely alike.
+
+Rainy Chamber is the room in which the bones of the three-toed horse,
+already referred to, were found, but their presence has not yet been
+explained; therefore the case is open to conjecture and several
+theories may be advanced and their values considered. The first question
+when such a discovery is made, is whether the living animal was possibly
+a cave-dweller; which, as the horse was not, is quickly disposed of and
+attention turned to the next, the possibility of a carniverous animal
+having carried his prey into the dark recesses of the cave in order that
+the enjoyment of his dinner might be undisturbed. This theory is equally
+unavailable by reason of the topographical features presented. If the
+present natural entrance to the cave were the only way into this room
+from the outside, the distance was too great and beset with many
+difficulties; besides which the final passage is too small to admit an
+animal of sufficient size to carry any considerable portion of even a
+very small horse. But if at that period the room had direct
+communication with the outside through an opening since closed, the
+shape of the walls indicate that it must have been a pot-hole in the
+roof, and through this an animal could have entered by falling, which
+the horse and others may have done. But it seems most probable that the
+remains were carried in by the water through such a hole before it was
+closed at the beginning of the Quaternary period, when the erosion of
+the Hills was most active.
+
+Rainy Chamber also contains a large and beautiful assortment of the
+small polished and coated pebbles called cave pearls.
+
+The guide being anxious that we should not fail to see the Niagara Room,
+we now turned toward a low, broad opening in the wall, a short distance
+to the right of the entrance, where the rising floor and descending
+ceiling, failing to meet, had overlapped; so we made our way up a steep,
+smooth bank, and then down on the other side over a broken, rocky
+surface for a distance of about twenty feet, when the roof at last
+joined the floor and two small water-worn holes at the point of junction
+revealed an untempting passage within. The broader of these holes was
+three feet, but too low to be considered an entrance; the other was
+round but certainly not so large as our guide, who was preparing to
+enter it with doubts of his ability to make the trip, on account of
+having increased in size since his one entrance there, on which occasion
+two smaller guides pulled him through the tightest places. Carefully
+comparing his size with that of the hole he sat beside, there was no
+possibility of doubt that if the attempt were made he would stick fast,
+and that would place our little party in dire straits. Consequently I
+insisted that it should not be, but he was unwilling that Niagara should
+be missed when so near. Finally I positively refused to go unless he
+would consent to give us instructions and remain where he was while we
+went without him, to which he at last yielded with extreme
+unwillingness. He had frequently shown us the guide's marks, and now
+earnestly cautioned me to advance only as they point, and turn back if
+they should fail.
+
+The small nephew went on a reconnoitering expedition to the end of the
+passage, and reported that the jump-off there was higher than himself
+but he could get down. I now crawled through the hole and found the
+passage to be a "crawl" or rather a "sprawl," from fifteen to eighteen
+inches high, but having an ample width varying from three to six feet.
+The smooth, straight floor has a steep downward inclination and is
+thickly covered with dust.
+
+Having reached the widest portion, which is near the end, Herbert
+directed me to turn, so as to come down the jump-off feet first, where
+there was a little difficulty in landing, as the perpendicular wall,
+which proved to be almost five feet high, offered only one projecting
+help, and that within a few inches of the base; but in obedience to his
+advice to "reach one foot a little farther down and then drop," I
+advanced the right one, to be told not that, but the other, and was soon
+down where it was possible to observe with interest that the right foot
+had been swinging above an open fissure. We stood in a wide crevice
+running at right angles to the obnoxious passage we had just quit, and
+immediately found a guide's mark on a large rock, and others followed at
+intervals of a few feet over extremely "rough country" as the guides
+say. Everywhere the work of water was apparent, not in the crystal
+deposits of still water as in other portions of the cave, but the
+erosion due to its rushing through. Carefully following the marks, they
+led into a cross-crevice that took us under Rainy Chamber, and ends
+there by widening into a circular chamber of about fifty feet width in
+either direction, and rising to a height of nearly fifty feet in a fine
+dome. Down the wall from near the top of the dome there appears to flow
+a beautiful waterfall showing a variety of colors in the straight lines,
+as if from refraction. The fall is, of course, dripstone, and I knew we
+had found Niagara, although we had gone beyond the reach of the guide's
+voice almost at the start. A huge rock directly under the dome has
+received the falling drip until it represents a mountain cataract. These
+deposits testify to the great age of the chamber they adorn, as they
+were necessarily not commenced until all heavy flow ceased, and in
+Crystal Cave the accumulation of dripstone is so slow that it is said
+six years' observation can detect no increase whatever.
+
+Several small passages at the floor level gave exit to the great volume
+of water that evidently at one time entered this crevice, from Rainy
+Chamber, by the route we followed, and being checked in its course the
+lower end of the crevice became filled, under pressure; and the low
+position of the outlets gave this water a whirling motion that in time
+excavated the dome-shaped room.
+
+No part of Crystal Cave has ever been occupied by a river, but its
+fissures, opened by the violence of earth movements accompanying nearby
+volcanic disturbances, have been filled more than once by the inrush of
+waters which repeatedly submerged the whole Black Hills region.
+
+Following again the marks which guided us into Niagara Room, we soon
+came within hailing distance of a voice expressive of profound relief;
+and as we crawled up the sloping passage, over-heated and breathless
+with the exertion, the guide assured us he was most truly thankful to
+see us again, as he had never in his life experienced so severe a scare
+as since it had occurred to him that we had gone beyond the limits of
+communication without a single match.
+
+He also said I had been where no lady had ever gone before, and took
+satisfaction in the fact that many men have refused to make the venture
+with a guide.
+
+Leaving this portion of the cave, by returning as we came, through
+Suicide Room, Starr Chamber, and Senate Chamber, we crawled along the
+rocks overhanging a narrow fissure, to reach a ladder at the end, by
+which we descended to another part of the Catacombs. Here, after
+traveling a long distance over uneven floors covered with sharp
+crystals, as were all surfaces, through large, low rooms, and narrow,
+crooked passages, constantly assisting the difficult advance with our
+hands, like monkeys, we finally came to The Grotto, which is probably
+the most remarkable room in this very remarkable cave. It is a large
+room, with much of the irregular ceiling so low that even the small
+nephew struck his head severely while turning to warn me, as he often
+did, of threatening inequalities in the floor and light them with his
+own candle. The crystals here are exceptionally fine, being very sharp
+and of unusual size, besides many of them being double--that is, pointed
+at both ends. Through this beautiful ceiling there is a percolating drip
+adding stalactites to the crystal-points and piling stalagmites on the
+crystal masses below, varying this with imitation cascades, mats of
+small flowers, and masses of pop-corn. Off to one side in a kind of
+recess there is a depression in the crystal floor filled with clear,
+cold water.
+
+A glance at the time now showed us to be in danger of failure to meet
+the train to town, and consequently, tired as we were after nine hours
+of rough travel and much climbing, it was necessary to make our way out
+with more speed than comfort, and we found the weather turning very
+cold. The cave was carefully locked, preparations for the train
+hurriedly made, the house closed, and as we left it the train could be
+heard coming down the canon, but we arrived at the station first, though
+breathless, and a few minutes later were in Piedmont, too tired to
+properly enjoy a hot venison supper.
+
+As to the size of Crystal Cave, it is impossible to make any positive
+statement; for as Mr. McBride, the proprietor, says, no survey has yet
+been made. Other persons said that thirty-six miles is the greatest
+claim made for the combined length of all passages, and sixteen miles
+the least, so it may be wise to accept the lesser number until a survey
+proves it wrong.
+
+The box work in Crystal Cave is not of such great abundance as to demand
+special attention, but is very beautiful, and one variety deserves
+particular mention. These boxes have been formed in dark red sandstone,
+and after being emptied of their original contents, have been completely
+filled with colorless calcite crystals, and over this is spread an outer
+surface of the same crystals tinted a brilliant flame color by red
+paint-clay having been taken in solution by the crystal forming waters.
+A specimen of this was a temptation too great to be resisted even in the
+owner's absence.
+
+Some of the box work is of such size that a single box may have a
+capacity equal to that of a bushel measure, but it is less beautiful
+than the smaller forms.
+
+On the following morning we left Piedmont, and having a desire for
+greater personal knowledge of the Hills, took the same train which had
+taken us to the cave, and traveled to its western terminus, Lead City.
+The interesting scenery makes this a desirable trip for any one visiting
+the Hills, but its beauty is chiefly massed at the ends, the middle
+distance being over gradually rising ground, which is without a
+counterpart of the rocky canon left behind or more than a suggestion of
+the high hills yet to come. The special charm of this portion was the
+magnificent pine forest which covered it until three years ago, when it
+was swept by a terrible fire, from which the settlers escaped with only
+their lives; and even that would have been impossible if the railroad
+company had not kept refuge trains waiting for them just ahead of the
+flames. The prominent geological feature here is the porphyry dikes,
+which are becoming more numerous and more prominent, and in many places
+resemble a conspicuous group near Harney Peak, called The Needles. These
+dykes are of special interest in connection with a study of the caves,
+since they are probably of simultaneous origin.
+
+The same volcanic movements that caused the violent upheaval of the
+whole region, and thrust up molten masses through the strata to form a
+central core to the Hills, must also have rent the nearby regions with
+fissures through which probably much gas escaped, and having been
+further opened and then adorned, now demand our attention as caves of
+unique and curious beauty.
+
+The approach to Lead is over the hill-tops with a magnificent distant
+view, and the first glimpses of that young city famous for having as a
+center the Homestake mine, the largest gold mine in the world, are
+charming. It is situated far down in a valley among the high hills and
+spreads some distance up the surrounding slopes.
+
+The works of the great mine are wonderful, and visitors welcome to
+examine whatever they find interesting; any questions they wish to ask
+are graciously answered, although every one is busy. This is not a
+special favor to the exceptional few, but the courtesy shown to all.
+Visitors are also welcome to descend into the mine, but as an attendant
+is necessary on account of dangers to be avoided, a permit must be
+obtained at the office.
+
+Several other caves have been discovered in the Black Hills, the largest
+of which is the Davenport Cave at Sturgis. Very little exploration has
+yet been done in it, but indications are said to be that it will take
+rank among the large ones.
+
+At Galena, a new mining town of golden promise, there is reported to be
+an Ice Cave, where ice forms at all seasons, and during the warm weather
+is a source of comfort and pleasure to the miners.
+
+In the evening, as train time for continuing the homeward journey
+approached, the snow storm which began gently early in the afternoon,
+grew steadily more severe. A carriage to the depot was not to be had, as
+every vehicle in town had gone to the funeral of an old-timer in the
+Hills and the return delayed by the storm. The situation could not be
+regarded as a special pleasure, but cave hunters learn to accept
+whatever is and be thankful for the general average. At the last moment,
+however, a team was driven up and permission given us to make use of it.
+It proved to be the private conveyance of the hotel proprietor, and the
+young boy who accompanied us, his son.
+
+Our train was on time, and the ride through the Hills to their southern
+limit, in the falling snow, was wonderfully beautiful; but the storm
+continued for many days and was one of the most severe on record.
+
+Those persons who have been so unfortunate as to permit themselves to
+accept a ready made opinion of dangers and roughness to be met with in
+the more newly settled regions, might find a tour of the Hills doubly
+interesting by making a supplementary study of "The Living Age," which
+cannot be so correctly viewed from a distance as is sometimes supposed,
+since the specimens exhibited are not always a true average of the
+strata they are supposed to represent.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+CONCLUSION.
+
+
+After a visit to the marvelous caverns of the Black Hills, much may be
+added to the pleasure already enjoyed, through the explanatory activity
+of the Yellowstone National Park, where even the wonderful combinations
+of beauty and grandeur are by no means the full measure of attraction
+and charm. Here is found evidence to verify theories concerning the
+caves, and those theories in turn contribute in no small degree to a
+satisfactory understanding of the mysteries of geyser action. For
+scientific study the two regions should be taken together, since the
+natural conditions are practically the same, and the chief difference
+lies in the stages of development; the present of the Park explaining
+the recent past of the Hills, while the present of the Hills foretells
+the future of the Park. It seems that Nature, with a full appreciation
+of the limits and restrictions binding our powers to penetrate certain
+secrets of an intermittent force, has in this great western country
+carefully prepared what might quite properly be termed a progressive
+course of study, wherein each locality makes plain a special point that
+somewhere else appears obscure.
+
+As has been said in the preceding chapters, the two great caves in the
+Black Hills of South Dakota cannot be accounted for by the same methods
+as are recognized as being responsible for the slow excavation of the
+best known caves of the United States. Although there is every
+indication that both these caves have been subject to the action of
+enormous volumes of water, there is equally positive evidence that
+neither was ever the scene of a flowing cave-river. The lowest levels in
+both show the narrowest fissures and the heaviest deposits of crystal,
+by which we infer that the water was held in confinement here, while all
+the higher passages or channels bear witness to the water's flow. But
+many of these channels in Crystal Cave, or indeed we might say, most of
+them, present an unmistakable record of the gauge of the water stage at
+different periods. During the earlier time, when the volume of water and
+consequent pressure were greatest, frictional motion must have been
+limited to the main channel connecting with the vent, and the high gauge
+of water maintained a fairly uniform degree of heat near its surface. In
+consequence of these conditions geyser action, probably, was constant,
+and chemical activity was such that great chambers were formed and then
+decorated, as already described, with wonderful masses of crystal. As
+the water gauge receded to lower levels the higher chambers became
+storage basins for water and steam forced up by the pressure from below,
+and the time required for these to fill and accumulate sufficient
+pressure to continue the ejectment, formed the periods between eruptions
+after the geyser became intermittent. It was during this stage that the
+sharp crystals in many of the channels, now called passages, were worn
+down to smooth surfaces; and later, when water occupied only the lowest
+level, and the great geyser had become reduced to merely a steam vent,
+the channels immediately connecting with that level were in their turn
+subjected to the same smoothing process, and then all action ceased.
+
+As no two of the glorious geysers of the Yellowstone Park are alike,
+neither do the two great caves of the Hills indicate that they should be
+so. The vent-tubing of each is quite unlike that of the other in all the
+essential governing points of length, size, shape, angle of inclination
+and power-conserving bends. And the differences extend in an almost
+equally marked degree throughout the vast and complicated succession of
+storage chambers and their connecting channels. The small vent of Wind
+Cave shows that the ejected jet was far from being equal to that of the
+Crystal Cave in volume; but the nearly perpendicular long arm of its
+tube shows also that its jet attained a much greater height, even
+supposing that it should be necessary to make some allowance for a short
+elbow at the top.
+
+Dr. Hayden's geological party gave much attention to the Yellowstone
+Park while its wonders were new to the world, and observations were made
+at various times during the period included between the years 1869 and
+1870. The special study, and full report of the geysers became the duty
+of Dr. A.C. Peal, whose descriptions and conclusions were published in
+U.S. Geological Survey Report, 1878, Part II. In the final pages of his
+report he quotes the leading authorities on geyser action, and applies
+the principles of their theories, according to his own judgment, to the
+geysers of the park. Since copies of this report are not now easily
+obtained, nor even always accessible to the increasing number of
+personages who visit the park, it may be well to quote from him some of
+the theories he discussed and the opinions he expressed. On page 416,
+beginning the chapter with the derivation of the word geyser from the
+Icelandic word _geysa_--to gush, he continues:
+
+"We now come to the definition of a geyser. It may be defined to be a
+periodically eruptive or intermittent _hot_ spring, from which the water
+is projected into the air in a fountain-like column. The analogy between
+geysers and volcanoes has frequently been noticed and the former have
+often been described as volcanoes which erupt heated water instead of
+melted lava. We have italicized the word hot in the definition just
+given, because springs containing a large amount of gas may simulate
+geysers.
+
+"The difference between geysers and ordinary hot springs is not readily
+explained, nor even always recognized. The difference between a quiet
+thermal spring and a geyser in active eruption is very marked, but
+between the two there is every grade of action. Some geysers appear as
+quiet springs, as for instance the Grand Geyser during its period of
+quiescence. Others might easily be mistaken for constantly boiling
+springs, as in the case of the Giant Geyser, in which the water is
+constantly in active ebullition. This is true also of the Strockr of
+Iceland. Many of the springs, therefore, that in the Yellowstone Park
+have been classed as constantly boiling springs may be unsuspected
+geysers. The Excelsior Geyser was not discovered to be a geyser until
+eight years after the setting aside of the park. Almost all constantly
+boiling springs have periods of increased activity, and those which
+spurt a few feet into the air have been classed as pseudo-geysers.
+
+"It has been noticed that geysers occur where the intensity of volcanic
+action is decreasing. In the neighborhood of active volcanoes, such as
+Vesuvius, the temperature appears to be too high, and the vapor escapes
+as steam from what are called stufas. When the rocks at the surface are
+more cooled the water comes forth in liquid form.
+
+"We will now pass to the various geyser theories that have been proposed
+by different writers."
+
+Dr. Peal then proceeds to give the theories of Sir J. Herschell and Sir
+George McKenzie, but as they are accepted and extended by others, we may
+pass on to Bischof's, of which Dr. Peal says: "Very similar to
+McKenzie's theory is the one adopted by Bischof in his Researches on the
+Internal Heat of the Globe (pages 227, 228). It is really the theory of
+Krug Von Nidda, who examined the geyser in 1833. Bischof says:
+
+"'He (Krug Von Nidda) takes it for granted that these hot springs derive
+their temperature from the aqueous vapors rising from below. When these
+vapors are able to rise freely in a continued column the water at the
+different depths must have a constant temperature equal to that at which
+water would boil under the pressure existing at the respective depths;
+hence the constant ebullition of the permanent springs and their boiling
+heat. If, on the other hand, the vapors be prevented by the complicated
+windings of its channels from rising to the surface; if, for example,
+they be arrested in caverns, the temperature in the upper layers of
+water must necessarily become reduced, because a large quantity of it is
+lost by evaporation at the surface, which cannot be replaced from below.
+And any circulation of the layers of water at different temperatures, by
+reason of their unequal specific gravities, seems to be very much
+interrupted by the narrowness and sinuousity of the passage. The
+intermitting springs of Iceland are probably caused by the existence of
+caverns, in which the vapor is retained by the pressure of the column of
+water in the channel which leads to the surface. Here this vapor
+collects, and presses the water in the cavern downward until its elastic
+force becomes sufficiently great to effect a passage through the column
+of water which confines it. The violent escape of the vapor causes the
+thunder-like subterranean sound and the trembling of the earth which
+precedes each eruption. The vapors do not appear at the surface until
+they have heated the water to their own temperature.
+
+"'When so much vapor has escaped that the expansive force of that which
+remains has become less than the pressure of the confining column of
+water, tranquility is restored, and this lasts until such a quantity of
+vapor is again collected as to produce a fresh eruption. The spouting of
+the spring is therefore repeated at intervals, depending on the
+capacity of the cavern, the height of the column of water, and the heat
+generated below.'" Dr. Peal continues:
+
+"Bishof says that the eruptions of the Geyser and Strockr agree exactly
+with this explanation and he accounts for the two distinct classes of
+eruption observed in the Geyser as follows:
+
+"'The two distinct classes of eruption in the geyser which we have
+already mentioned seem to be attributable to two different cavities. A
+small cavity fills quicker, and, therefore, empties itself more
+frequently; a larger one fills slower, empties itself seldomer, but with
+greater violence.'"
+
+Bunsen's theory is the next considered and is somewhat similar to
+Bischof's but with notable differences. After taking temperatures at
+different points in the Geyser tube his first conclusions are that:
+
+(1) The temperature in the geyser tube increases as we descend.
+
+(2) At no point does the water in the tube attain the temperature of
+ebullition which it should have under the pressure to which it is
+subjected, but the temperature depends on the time that has elapsed
+since the last eruption. As a great eruption comes near it approaches
+the boiling point.
+
+(3) At the depth of about forty-five feet the difference between the
+temperature of the water and the calculated boiling point for that
+pressure is the least.
+
+The main point of his theory appears to be that an eruption takes place
+when the water in the tube reaches the boiling point, and to account for
+it, "He supposes that the column in the central tube communicates by a
+long and sinuous channel with some space, be it what it may, which is
+subjected to the action of the direct source of subterranean heat. The
+temperature gets raised above the boiling point, due to the pressure,
+and a sudden generation of steam is the result. This steam rises in the
+column of water, which, being cooler, causes it to condense. Gradually
+the heat of the water is raised until the water of the channel must
+boil, and the steam therefore cannot condense, but must accumulate and
+acquire a gradually increasing tension. The condensation of the bubbles
+possesses a periodic character, and to this is due the uplifting of the
+water in what Bunsen calls conical water hills, which are accompanied by
+the subterranean explosions."
+
+Prof. Comstock is quoted as thinking "Bunsen's theory has not yet been
+proved adequate to explain the more prominent features of geyser
+eruptions. Nor does it, in his opinion, account for all the differences
+between geysers and hot springs, and he proposes a structural
+hypothesis which combines Bischof's and Bunsen's theories."
+
+This hypothesis is illustrated by a figure in which a reservoir partly
+filled with water is connected with the surface by a tube having a
+double curve, and he explains that the water collecting in the depressed
+curve should confine the steam, rising from the reservoir in the other
+curve until the pressure is sufficient to cause an eruption. His theory
+of action being that the water in the reservoir remains in equilibrium
+at a certain level, and the constant heat fills the space above with
+vapor, which heats the water held in the downward bend of the tube, and
+that also evolves vapor which fills the balance of the tube to the vent.
+When the combined pressure of this vapor and water are overcome by the
+expansion of vapor accumulated above the reservoir, they are forced out,
+and followed by a portion of the water of the reservoir. This theory is
+in the report of Captain Jones on Northwestern Wyoming.
+
+The last theory cited by Dr. Peal is that of S. Baring-Gould, "Who
+visited the Iceland geysers in 1863, and thinks that a bent tube is
+sufficient to explain the action of the Great Geyser. He took an iron
+tube and bent it in an angle of 110 deg., keeping one arm half the length
+of the other. He filled the tube with water and placed the short arm in
+the fire. For a moment the surface of the liquid remained quiet, and then
+the pipe began to quiver; a slight overflow took place, without any sign
+of ebullition, and then suddenly, with a throb, the whole column was
+forced high into the air. With a tube, the long arm of which measured
+two feet and the bore of which was three-eighths of an inch, he sent a
+jet to the height of eighteen feet. Steam is generated in the short arm
+and presses down the water, causing an overflow until the steam bubble
+turns the angle, when it forces out the column in the long arm with
+incredible violence."
+
+Dr. Peal now goes on to say:
+
+"Of the theories that we have just enumerated, perhaps no one is
+adequate to explain all the phenomena of geyser action. Bunsen's theory
+comes nearest to it, and in the simplest kinds of geysers is a
+sufficient explanation. The variations and modifications in the geyser
+tubes and subterranean water passages must undoubtedly be important
+factors entering into any complete explanation of geyser action. Now, of
+course, we can see what the conditions are at the surface, but in our
+experiments we can penetrate to a very inconsiderable distance. We have,
+therefore, no data to present on these points, and investigations of
+this branch of the subject will have to be carried on in an artificial
+manner; that is artificial geysers will have to be constructed, and
+various modifications made in the tubes until results are reached
+analogous to those seen in natural geysers. If water in a glass tube be
+heated with rapidity from the bottom, it will be expelled from the tube
+violently, and if boiled in a kettle which has a lid and a spout, either
+the lid will be blown off or the water will be forced out through the
+spout. The first case is an illustration, in part at least, of Bunsen's
+theory, and the second exemplifies the theories which presuppose the
+existence of subterranean cavities with tubes at or near the surface.
+According to the former we must suppose that the layer of rock,
+extending seventy-five to seventy-seven feet below the surface, contains
+sufficient heat to account for geyseric phenomena; or else that the
+geyser tube has some opening, either at the bottom or on the sides, by
+which steam and superheated water have access to it from a considerably
+greater depth where the temperature is very high. At these depths
+caverns probably exist." * * * *
+
+"That such cavities exist is more than probable. On page 405 I have
+indicated my belief, that all geysers are originally due to a violent
+outburst of steam and water, and under such conditions, irregular
+cavities and passages are more likely to be formed than regular
+tubes." * *
+
+"In view of what we have just written, Bunsen's conclusion (No. 2)
+would have to be modified somewhat. His conclusion was that at no point
+in the tube did the water attain the temperature of ebullition which it
+should have under the pressure to which it is subjected. As far as this
+relates to the straight tube in which his temperatures were taken, it
+may be so; but if he could have taken temperatures in the side conduit,
+I have little doubt he would soon have reached a point where the
+temperature would not only be at the boiling point for that depth but
+even exceed it. In the Yellowstone Park we obtained a number of surface
+temperatures which were above the boiling point. In the Great Geyser of
+Iceland, the mass of water in the tube prevents this condition at the
+surface, and when it takes place opposite the aperture an eruption is
+caused. In the main, however, I am inclined to accept Bunsen's theory,
+especially as it seems to me to require subterranean cavities in which
+the water must be heated. Whether these are caverns, enlargements of
+tubes, or sinus channels, appears to me to be of no consequence, except
+as the interval or period of the geyser might be affected by the form of
+the reservoir holding the water."
+
+Dr. Peal has reached conclusions which present an imaginary picture of
+the interior structure of the great geysers of the Park, that bears a
+striking resemblance to what the two caves of the Black Hills prove to
+be the true conditions; although it is evident he had in mind caverns of
+no such vast extent, nor of so complicated a system of cavities and
+tubes. He overlooked an important feature, however, in not accepting
+Professor Comstock's idea of the tube having a double curve. The double
+curve is, or was, conspicuous in both the caves. Unfortunately, its
+perfection in Wind Cave was necessarily partially sacrificed to make the
+passage traversable for visitors; but in describing the enormous labor
+of opening up the cave, Mr. McDonald showed how an arching "crawl" had
+been worked down by blasting, and the depression beyond filled to raise
+it to the desired level for securing the present easy passage at the
+bottom of the main tube, which is the entrance passage. This double
+curve in the tube is simply the rough original of the S trap of sanitary
+plumbing. In both caves it is somewhat irregular and deformed, but the
+familiar "trap" is easily recognized. The destruction of one of the
+Yellowstone geysers was, no doubt, due to the breaking of the S. One of
+the many reasons for establishing military control over the Park is said
+to have been the disastrous results following the introduction of a
+large quantity of soap into the geyser to cause a premature eruption.
+The impatience of the party was rewarded by an eruption accompanied by
+explosions that shook the earth for a great distance, and the geyser has
+not been seen in action since.
+
+Dr. Peal finds the theories advanced for the generation of steam
+unsatisfactory and insufficient, especially in the class of geysers
+having a long steam period. He says: (page 423)
+
+"The Castle Geyser differs from Old Faithful and the Bee Hive mainly in
+the fact that it has a long steam period, during which the steam pours
+out or is pushed from the geyser throat with great violence and a
+terrific noise. There appear to be only two possible explanations of
+this difference, viz., either an accumulation of immense volumes of
+steam in the Castle, or an instantaneous formation of steam throughout
+the length of the geyser tube. The former, to our mind, is untenable,
+because it seems impossible that the water, which is exhausted in
+fifteen minutes, should exert enough power to keep down the immense
+amount of steam that escapes for more than an hour. According to
+Bunsen's theory, it can be readily explained. The relief afforded by the
+first part of the eruptions allows the superheated water to rise
+rapidly, and before it can reach the top or orifice of the tube it is
+all converted into steam from the top downward with inconceivable
+rapidity, and must be forced out with the terrific violence which is
+noted in the case of the Castle. On page 208 we have expressed the
+opinion that it is the oldest geyser in the region, and it seems to us
+that a greater length in the tube, with a consequent greater supply of
+water, will account for the difference between the Castle and Old
+Faithful, the latter of which we consider one of the youngest geysers in
+the Upper Geyser Basin."
+
+A study of the Caves in connection with the active Geysers indicates
+that the theory he suggests and then rejects, is probably the true
+explanation of the difference between the two kinds of geysers. It seems
+that the length of the tube must necessarily have more effect on the
+height of the jet than on the generation of steam; as after an eruption
+the tube is hotter than at any other time and therefore the generation
+of steam in it should be less than usual, unless the fresh inflow of
+water was cold. Then if the storage cavities are broad but low, the
+steam cannot accumulate above the water; but when the pressure becomes
+sufficient to force a passage through the tube, the water and steam are
+expelled together until the pressure is exhausted. But if the storage
+chambers are vertical fissures, as Wind Cave illustrates, vast
+quantities of steam must accumulate above the water level in the main
+reservoirs before the pressure can become sufficient to expel the water
+in the tube, after which steam alone continues to rush out until the
+pressure is so relieved that it can no longer force a passage through
+the water remaining in the trap, when quiet is restored. By the constant
+addition of fresh water from the surface, by percolation or other usual
+ways of sinking, the necessary conditions for the generation of steam
+are maintained with surprising regularity.
+
+The differences in the shape and general arrangement of the cavities and
+tubes of the two caves, indicate that their action as geysers was very
+unlike. Wind Cave evidently sent a rather slender column to a great
+height, nearly perpendicular, and the water eruption was followed by a
+long steam period. Crystal Cave ejected a much larger jet more
+frequently, at a low angle of inclination, the eruption was sooner over,
+and was not followed by a steam period of any consequence.
+
+Thus it can be seen that the caves of the Black Hills prove the theories
+in regard to geyser action in Yellowstone Park, and those theories, in
+turn, prove the past history of the caves. The study of geyser action
+also shows that the conical or dome shape of some of the cave chambers
+is not due to the whirl of incoming floods, as in other regions, but to
+jets of water forced up from lower levels.
+
+Perhaps the finest geyser basin, and possible cave, ever in existence
+was destroyed when the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone became a canon.
+Evidences of the former conditions in control of this gorgeously
+brilliant scene are neither wanting nor doubtful. Steam constantly
+issues from numerous small vents in the canon walls, and a field glass
+reveals miniature geysers in action down in the depth of the canon,
+nearly half a mile below the top of the wall; while the entire canon
+shows, in both the color and character of its rocks, that chemical
+agencies have wrought changes here that have not been effected in other
+exposures of similar nature. It seems not improbable that the relation
+of Yellowstone River to the Grand Canon was the same as, at the present
+time, is that of the Firehole to the Upper, Middle, and Lower Geyser
+Basins: and that an explosion of great force was followed by a general
+collapse instead of the usual eruption of one of the grandest geysers;
+one result being the sudden precipitation of the river into a new,
+beautiful, and totally unexpected channel. After its great leap of two
+hundred and ninety-seven[6] feet at the Lower Fall, the river flows in a
+brilliant, narrow line of emerald green, broken by the white foam of
+frequent cascades, between magnificent walls of yellow, white, pink, and
+red of most vivid hues.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[6] Measurement by the Hayden Party.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAVE REGIONS OF THE OZARKS AND BLACK
+HILLS***
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