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+<title>Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher</title>
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+<h2>
+<a href="#startoftext">Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher, by Ike Matthews</a>
+</h2>
+<pre>
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Full Revelations of a Professional
+Rat-catcher, by Ike Matthews
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher
+ After 25 Years' Experience
+
+
+Author: Ike Matthews
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 6, 2005 [eBook #17243]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL
+RAT-CATCHER***
+</pre>
+<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p>
+<p>This eBook was prepared by Les Bowler.</p>
+<h1><!-- page 1--><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>Full Revelations
+of a Professional Rat-Catcher,<br />
+after 25 Years&rsquo; Experience<br />
+by Ike Matthews.</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/title.jpg">
+<img alt="Title page image" src="images/title.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><!-- page 2--><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>Introduction.</h2>
+<p>In placing before my readers in the following pages the results of
+my twenty-five years&rsquo; experience of Rat-catching, Ferreting, etc.,
+I may say that I have always done my best to accomplish every task that
+I have undertaken, and I have in consequence received excellent testimonials
+from many corporations, railway companies, and merchants.&nbsp; I have
+not only made it my study to discover the different and the best methods
+of catching Rats, but I have also taken great interest in watching their
+ways and habits, and I come to the conclusion that there is no sure
+way of completely exterminating the Rodents, especially in large towns.&nbsp;
+If I have in this work referred more particularly to Rat-catching in
+Manchester that is only because my experience, although extending over
+a much wider area, has been chiefly in that city, but the methods I
+describe are equally applicable to all large towns.</p>
+<p>Yours truly,</p>
+<p>IKE MATTHEWS.</p>
+<p>PROFESSIONAL RAT-CATCHER,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; PENDLETON,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; MANCHESTER.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 3--><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>PART I.&nbsp; HOW
+TO CLEAR RATS FROM WAREHOUSES, OFFICES, STOREROOMS, ETC.</h2>
+<p>In the first place my advice is&mdash;never poison Rats in any enclosed
+buildings whatever.&nbsp; Why?&nbsp; Simply because the Rats that you
+poison are Drain Rats, or what you call Black Rats, and you can depend
+upon it that the Rats that you poison will not get back into the drains,
+but die under the floor between the laths and plaster, and the consequence
+is that in a few days the stench that will arise will be most obnoxious.&nbsp;
+And there is nothing more injurious than the smell of a decomposed Rat.</p>
+<p>Having had a long experience in Manchester I am quite sure of this.&nbsp;
+As an instance, I remember a private house where I was engaged catching
+Rats under a floor with ferrets.&nbsp; I went as far as possible on
+my belly under the floor with two candles in my hands, and I saw <!-- page 4--><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>the
+ferret kill a large bitch Rat, about six yards from me against a wall,
+where neither the dog nor myself could get at it.&nbsp; I finished the
+job and made out my bill for my services, but in about two or three
+weeks after they again sent for me, declaring they could not stay in
+the sitting-room on account of the smell that arose from beneath the
+flooring boards.&nbsp; They had in consequence to send for a joiner;
+and as I knew the exact spot where the Rat was killed I ordered him
+to take up the floor boards just where the dead Rat lay, and the stench
+that arose from the decomposed Rodent was bad in the extreme.&nbsp;
+I disinfected the place, and I was never sent for again.&nbsp; This
+was under a cold floor, and it is much worse where there is any heat.</p>
+<p>Now to deal with the different methods of catching Rats.&nbsp; The
+best way, in my opinion, is,</p>
+<h3>TRAPPING THEM WITH STEEL SPRING TRAPS.</h3>
+<p>Whenever you are trapping, never on any consideration put bait on
+the traps; always put traps in their runs, but you will find Rats are
+so cunning that in time, after a few have been caught, they will jump
+over the traps, and then you must try another way.&nbsp; A good one
+is the following, viz.:&mdash;Get a bag of fine, clean sawdust, and
+mix with it about one-sixth its weight of oatmeal.&nbsp; Obtain the
+sawdust <!-- page 5--><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>fresh from under
+the saw, without bits of stick in, as these would be liable to get into
+the teeth of the trap and stop them from closing.&nbsp; Where you see
+the runs put a handful in say about 30 different places, every night,
+just dropping the sawdust and meal out of your hands in little heaps.&nbsp;
+That means 30 different heaps.&nbsp; Do this for four nights, and you
+will see each morning that the sawdust is all spread about.&nbsp; Now
+for four more nights you must bury a set trap under every heap of sawdust.&nbsp;
+Thus you will have 30 traps, on each of which there is a square centre
+plate; you must level the sawdust over the plate with a bit of stick,
+and set each trap as fine as you can on the catch spring, so that the
+weight of a mouse would set it off.&nbsp; They will play in the sawdust
+as usual, and you will have Rats in almost every trap.&nbsp; You will
+find that this plan will capture a great many of the Rodents.&nbsp;
+I have trapped as many as 114 in one night in this way.</p>
+<p>In time, however, the Rats will cease to go near sawdust.&nbsp; Then
+you must procure a bag of fine soot from any chimney sweep, and you
+will find that they will go at the soot just as keen as they did in
+the first instance at the sawdust.&nbsp; When they get tired of soot
+(which <!-- page 6--><span class="pagenum">p. 6</span>they will in time)
+you must procure some soft tissue paper and cut it fine, and use that
+in the same way as the sawdust and the soot.&nbsp; You can also use
+light chaff or hay seeds with the like result.</p>
+<p>I must not omit to tell my readers to always trap Rats in the night,
+and to go very quietly about it, for if you make much noise they will
+give over feeding.&nbsp; You must not go about with too big a light
+whilst trapping.&nbsp; You should stay at the building from dark until
+midnight, and every time a Rat is caught in the trap you should go with
+a bull&rsquo;s eye lamp, take it out of the trap or kill it, and then
+set the trap again, as you have the chance of another Rat in the same
+trap.&nbsp; From experience I can say that you need not stay in any
+place after 12 o&rsquo;clock at night, as I think that the first feed
+is the best, and that the first three hours are worth all the other
+part of the night.&nbsp; You can go home at 12 o&rsquo;clock, and be
+sure to be in the place by 6 or 7 a.m., for many a Rat caught in the
+trap by the front leg will, if it gets time, eat off its leg and get
+away again, and they are very cunning to catch afterwards.</p>
+<h3>NEVER HAVE YOUR TRAPS SET IN THE DAYTIME.</h3>
+<p>Handle them as little as possible.&nbsp; Always catch as many Rats
+as you can in your <!-- page 7--><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>buildings
+in January and February, as they begin to breed in March, and every
+bitch Rat means, on the average, eight more.&nbsp; Also get as much
+ferreting done as possible before breeding time, for a young Rat can
+get into the ends of the joisting under a floor, where a ferret cannot
+get near it, and the consequence is that a ferret is unable to cope
+with its task.&nbsp; The best thing I can advise for clearing young
+Rats is a good cat, one that must not be handled nor made a pet of,
+but allowed to live in almost a wild state.&nbsp; A good cat can do
+as much, in my opinion, in one night, when Rats are breeding, as two
+ferrets can do in a day, especially in a building where there are cavity
+walls, as it is impossible for a ferret to follow a Rat in such walls.</p>
+<p>This is all the information I am able to give on the trapping of
+Rats&mdash;a method I have proved by 25 years&rsquo; experience to excel
+all others.&nbsp; Still another way of clearing the pests is as follows:&mdash;The
+majority of Rats are Black, or what we call Drain Rats; if they are
+in a building they will in most cases come from a water-closet.&nbsp;
+Sometimes you will see from the drain pipes in the water-closet, say,
+a six-inch pipe fitted into a nine-inch pipe, and the joint covered
+round with clay, through which the Rats eat and scratch and get into
+<!-- page 8--><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>the building in great
+numbers in the night, but most of them return into the drains during
+the day.&nbsp; Now, if it is the breeding season (about eight months
+out of the twelve) they will do much damage to silk, cotton, leather,
+lace, and, in fact, all other light goods.&nbsp; And one would be surprised
+to see the quantity of cloth, paper, etc., they will procure for their
+nests whilst breeding.</p>
+<p>The way to get clear of these is to go in the day with two or three
+ferrets and leave the drain pipe open.&nbsp; Ferret them all back into
+the drain; don&rsquo;t put a net over the drain for fear you might miss
+one or two.&nbsp; If they got back into the building they would be hard
+to catch, as they would not face the net again.&nbsp; Then, after ferreting,
+make the drain good, and if there be an odd Rat or two left in the building
+you will get them in a few nights by baiting the trap.</p>
+<p>There is another way of catching the Brown Rat which breeds under
+the floor in large buildings where there are no drains.&nbsp; They are
+very awkward to catch.&nbsp; Always have a trap or two set, but do not
+set them where they feed; place them in their runs.&nbsp; But there
+are other methods for other Rat-infested places.&nbsp; For instance,
+take a restaurant, where they feed in the cooking <!-- page 9--><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>kitchen;
+we will suppose they have eaten four holes through either floor or skirting
+boards.&nbsp; The best way to catch these&mdash;however many holes they
+have leading into the kitchen&mdash;is to block up (with tin or similar
+material) all the holes with the exception of one, and let them use
+that one for two nights.&nbsp; Then put a plateful of good food, such
+as oatmeal and oil of aniseed, as far from the hole as you can in the
+same kitchen; then run a small train of meal and aniseed from the hole
+to the plate.&nbsp; Next drive two six-inch nails in the wall, with
+a long piece of string tied to the nail heads.&nbsp; Put on these nails
+a brick or piece of board right above the hole 2 inches up the wall.&nbsp;
+Be sure the nails are quite loose in the wall over the hole, and leave
+in that position for two nights, so that the Rats will get used to it.&nbsp;
+On the night that you are going to catch them, before leaving the place
+carry the string from the nail heads to the door or window; let the
+door or window be closed within an inch, with the end of the string
+outside.&nbsp; After the place has been quiet for thirty minutes return
+to the door or window very quietly, and you will hear the Rats feeding.&nbsp;
+Pull the string, the loose nails come out of the wall and the brick
+or board drops over the hole.&nbsp; You can then go in, close the door,
+turn up the gas and <!-- page 10--><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>catch
+or kill them at your leisure, as they cannot get back again.</p>
+<p>By this method I may mention that I have caught a great number of
+Rats, and it is quite possible to clear a place in this manner: that
+is, if they do not come out of the drains.&nbsp; I have caught upwards
+of 103 in six nights in this way.&nbsp; The best time to catch Rats
+in any building is always at night, and always about half-an-hour after
+the place has been closed, as Rats are generally more adventurous to
+come for their first feed.&nbsp; Always go about as quietly as possible.</p>
+<p>In some of the very old Manchester buildings that were built in the
+days before drain plans had to be submitted to the corporation, one
+finds under the cellar floors old-fashioned brick and flag drains (better
+known as &ldquo;spit&rdquo; drains), that were left in when the place
+was built.&nbsp; Once the Rats get in these disused drains all the professional
+Rat-catchers in England could not clear them without pulling the building
+down.&nbsp; The Rats have, by some means, got out of the main sewer,
+probably by the bursting of a sewer into one of these disused dry brick
+drains.&nbsp; It is then impossible to get underground to see where
+they have got into the dry drain, and the only thing that can be done
+in a case of this sort is to engage a <!-- page 11--><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>professional
+Rat-catcher occasionally, and keep two or three good cats to keep the
+Rats down.&nbsp; These places as a rule are more plagued with them when
+it is very wet weather and there are floods running.&nbsp; This is the
+best time to catch them, as they are all under the floor of the building,
+and are very easy to catch in the night with the traps.</p>
+<p>As a rule the Black or Drain Rats feed only in the night, very rarely
+in the day, as they are of a dirty nature, and prefer being in the drains.&nbsp;
+In my opinion the Black Rat is more vicious than the Brown.</p>
+<p>There is another Rat I call the Red Rat, which is akin to the Brown
+Rat.&nbsp; You will always catch these at a tannery, or about kennels,
+where hounds are kept, and they generally feed on horseflesh or offal.&nbsp;
+Red Rats are the &ldquo;gameist&rdquo; Rats I know, for whatever kind
+of Rats are put into the store cage, these Red Rats kill them the first
+night they are left quiet.</p>
+<p>I may describe another mode of catching Rats.&nbsp; In any Rat-overrun
+warehouse, storeroom, or cellar, where there is a deal of rubbish such
+as packing cases, wrappers, waste paper, etc., throw a lot of food,
+say oatmeal or soaked bread, carelessly amongst the cases or rubbish
+and let the Rats have a full week&rsquo;s feeding at <!-- page 12--><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>their
+leisure, and then if you know the holes round the floor wherefrom they
+come, go in some night as quick as possible, turn up the lights, run
+to the three or four holes, and block them up with pieces of rag, etc.&nbsp;
+Now as all the Rats will not run out of the packing cases or waste paper,
+but will hide amongst the same, this is the time to take a good terrier
+dog or two with you, and to have a bit of sport.&nbsp; Let one dog hunt
+among the cases, etc., and hold the other, for the Rats will soon make
+for the holes, but the rags preventing their escape you will catch and
+kill a great many by this means.</p>
+<p>It should be stated here that as Rats are very cunning, it takes
+a lot of study, dodging, and experience to be able to rid them entirely.&nbsp;
+When you are feeding Rats anywhere, never feed them with other than
+soft stuff, which you can squeeze through your fingers, for if you feed
+them with anything lumpy, they will carry pieces into their holes and
+eat at their leisure.</p>
+<h3>FERRETING.</h3>
+<p>Ferreting is a very good plan for destroying Rats in cottage houses,
+stables, hotels, etc., as it can be done in the day, but in buildings,
+say five or six storeys high you cannot ferret very well as you cannot
+tell where to set your nets.&nbsp; The only way to ferret a large building
+is to ferret one floor at once, and always start at the <!-- page 13--><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>top
+storey first.&nbsp; The majority of floors are laths and plaster.&nbsp;
+This is what the Rat likes, especially the Brown Rat, and there are
+more nests found in these places than anywhere else.&nbsp; To ferret
+thoroughly in such places you will require to have a board up at each
+end of the floor: the two end boards that run crossways with the joist;
+then you must have a man to put the ferret in at one end, and ferret
+one joist at a time; have a net set at the other end.&nbsp; The best
+way at the catching end is to have a long sheet net about a yard wide,
+and the full length of the boards that are up, for sometimes under the
+boards the Rats can get out of one joist into another, and if you use
+the long net you can catch them whichever joist they bolt at.</p>
+<p>Now we will suppose you are ferreting a seven-storey building, which
+might occupy three or four days.&nbsp; If you have ferreted two stories
+the first day, during the night the Rats that have not been ferreted
+on the lower stories may get back again to the top storey.</p>
+<p>How to prevent this happening I will give you a plan of my own, which
+I don&rsquo;t think any Rat-catcher but myself has ever employed.&nbsp;
+The course of action&mdash;a rather expensive one I admit&mdash;is the
+following: While you have the boards up you must go to the druggist
+and get two shillings&rsquo; worth of cayenne pepper, and put <!-- page 14--><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>it
+into a pepper duster.&nbsp; Scatter the cayenne along the boards and
+joist where you have had the long sheet net, and also along the other
+end of the joist where you put the ferrets in, and you will find that
+under no consideration will Rats face the cayenne pepper.&nbsp; Cayenne
+is alright for any dry place and will last a long time, but it will
+not do in any water closets or any damp places, as dampness takes all
+the nature out of the cayenne.</p>
+<p>After ferreting in any kind of building, always go carefully round
+the outside, and see that there are no broken air grids, or broken cellar
+windows, as these are likely ways that the Rats get into the building
+at first.&nbsp; When ferreting always be careful how you set your nets,
+and be extremely quick on the Rats when they bolt, for sometimes if
+they get back they will face the ferret before they will bolt again;
+then the ferrets kill them under the floors, and this as in the case
+of poisoning them is liable to cause an abominable smell, more especially
+where heat is near.</p>
+<p>In the whole of my experience of Rat-catching, which is a lengthy
+one, I never gave a guarantee to clear a place completely, in Manchester
+or any other town where so many large buildings are so close together.&nbsp;
+And let me show the reason for this.&nbsp; Take Cannon <!-- page 15--><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>Street,
+Manchester, as an illustration.&nbsp; Here are six or eight different
+firms in one block of buildings.&nbsp; Now, suppose four of these firms
+are suffering from the damage the Rats are doing.&nbsp; Well, one or
+two of these firms may go to the expense of having the Rats cleared
+away.&nbsp; But between the two buildings there may be a hardware business
+or ironmonger&rsquo;s shop, where Rats cannot do any harm to their goods.&nbsp;
+The owners of these shops will not go to the expense of having Rats
+caught, nor will they let us go into their shops at midnight; therefore
+the result is the Rat-catcher in his trapping and ferreting is limited
+to these two places, and all he can do is to catch some and drive the
+rest into the hardware shop.&nbsp; When under the floors in such places
+one finds there has been so many alterations made at different times
+that one joist may be a foot or six inches below the other, and when
+the Rats are completely driven out of these places it would require
+joiners and bricksetters to work for weeks under the floors to stop
+the Rats returning.&nbsp; And most firms will not go to this expense.&nbsp;
+I only give my readers this as an illustration of what has often happened
+with me, and to show why I never guarantee to clear Rats completely
+in large towns.&nbsp; If they are in a private house, stable, greenhouse,
+or any block <!-- page 16--><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>of houses,
+of say five or six, I might then, after looking through, give a guarantee
+to clear them completely.</p>
+<p>These are the fullest details I can give you, and if you will put
+any of the ways I have mentioned into practice you will find that they
+are all successful, especially the covering of traps.&nbsp; I can give
+you just one more instance in Manchester, where I was engaged.&nbsp;
+The workpeople had been tormenting the Rats with traps, not knowing
+how to set them.&nbsp; They sent for me, and on my looking round the
+place I knew there was a lot of Rats.&nbsp; I submitted my price to
+do the job, and when I went down one night with 40 traps, dog, and two
+ferrets I thought I should catch 20 or 30 Rats, but I found that they
+had plagued them so much with their attempted trapping that I only caught
+three in the whole night.&nbsp; This place belonged to a limited company,
+and when I went before the committee the next morning they were not
+satisfied.&nbsp; I told them that their own workpeople had tormented
+the Rats so much with traps that the Rats would not go near one.&nbsp;
+I then told the committee that I would still stick to my terms, but
+I would leave the job over for a fortnight.&nbsp; Now during that fortnight
+I went down a good many times, and laid the sawdust as I have <!-- page 17--><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>already
+described, and thus got the Rats used to it.&nbsp; The first night that
+I went catching I took with me 33 traps.&nbsp; I had them all set by
+8-30 p.m., and by 12-30 a.m. I had trapped 45 Rats; the next night 31
+Rats; and before I completed the job, with the trapping and the other
+ways that I have mentioned, I caught 183 Rats!&nbsp; This I give merely
+as an illustration to show the necessity of engaging an experienced
+man to catch Rats&mdash;that is, if you want them caught.&nbsp; And
+to confirm the statements above, I shall be most happy to supply privately
+the name and place of the firm, and also to give a personal interview
+if necessary.</p>
+<p>And now a word or two respecting the different ways in which Rat-catchers
+are treated.&nbsp; Many people think that a Rat-catcher is favoured
+if they give him permission to catch Rats on their farms or round the
+banks of their corn or wheat fields.&nbsp; Well, on some occasions I
+grant this may be a favour, for I have seen when I have had an order
+in hand for about 10 dozen Rats, and have had only a day or two in which
+to get them.&nbsp; Such are the only times and circumstances when a
+Rat-catcher gives his services gratis, and simply because he wants the
+live Rats.&nbsp; Most farmers will send you word when they are <!-- page 18--><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>threshing
+their corn, and then the value of the Rats are worth the day&rsquo;s
+work to the Rat-catcher.</p>
+<p>This is all right as far as it goes, but when one comes to consider
+the yearly expenses of the Rat-catcher it will be found that they are
+very heavy.&nbsp; Now, first of all it will cost, at the least, &pound;5
+annually for the wear and tear of traps alone, then there is the wear
+and tear of nets; two dog licences; always three or four ferrets to
+keep (and ferrets are often lost down drains or killed by Rats); also
+sundry other expenses, such as store cages, etc.&nbsp; Then, again,
+the Rat-catcher always has to pay a man to help him.</p>
+<p>I don&rsquo;t call Rat-catching a trade only: I maintain that it
+is a profession, and one that requires much learning and courage.&nbsp;
+I have found this out when I have been under a warehouse floor, where
+a lot of Rats were in the traps, and I could not get one man out of
+50 to come under the floor and hold the candle for me, not to mention
+helping me to take the live Rats out of the traps.&nbsp; I just relate
+this because at some places where we go and where we catch perhaps 30
+Rats, the first thing they say when the bill is presented is &ldquo;Why,
+you have got 15s. worth of live Rats!&rdquo;&nbsp; They don&rsquo;t
+think of the damage 30 Rats can do <!-- page 19--><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>to
+fancy goods, nor do they consider the evil smells that men have to tolerate
+under the floors or from the bad drains.</p>
+<p>I could relate many interesting anecdotes of what I have seen and
+heard about Rats, but I fear its perusal might take up too much of my
+readers&rsquo; time.&nbsp; There is, however, one thing I will mention.&nbsp;
+I dare say you have heard of Rats running about in &ldquo;swarms&rdquo;
+in the night.&nbsp; Do not believe it.&nbsp; In my whole experience
+I have never been so fortunate as to meet a &ldquo;swarm&rdquo; of these,
+when I have had an empty cage on my back, and an order for 12 dozen
+live Rats at 5s. per dozen.&nbsp; When trapping at farms on a moonlight
+night I have seen a train of Rats almost in single file going from a
+barn to a pit or brook to drink, and then I have simply run a long net
+all along the barn very quickly, sent my dog round the pit and caught
+all the Rats in the net when they ran back to get in the barn.&nbsp;
+For in these places you must be as cunning as the Rats to catch them.&nbsp;
+The quickest way for a farmer to get rid of Rats is to run a long trail
+of good oatmeal outside his barn doors, and shoot them on a moonlight
+night.&nbsp; I have seen 11 killed at a shot in this way.&nbsp; They
+will stay eating the oatmeal because they cannot carry it away.&nbsp;
+At farms or out-houses you might <!-- page 20--><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>poison
+Rats round a pit or along brook sides where they go to drink, although
+I don&rsquo;t believe in poisoning, as one never knows where it ends&mdash;the
+Rats being likely to carry the poisoned food about, and then dogs, hens,
+pigs, pigeons, etc., may pick it up.</p>
+<p>There may be a few more ways of catching Rats than I have enumerated,
+but I think I have given the best ways in detail.&nbsp; Some people
+think that to use</p>
+<h3>THE MONGOOSE</h3>
+<p>is very good, but I think that the mongoose is no better than a good
+fox terrier dog or a good cat, the only advantage in the mongoose being
+that all the Rats it kills it will bring back dead to its habitation,
+and that stops the dead Rats from smelling under the floors.&nbsp; I
+think that the mongoose is not half so sly or sharp as a good cat, and
+a mongoose, moreover, has to be taught how to kill a Rat (just the same
+as a dog).&nbsp; I am fortunate in having actually seen a mongoose and
+a Rat put alive in a tub together, and the mongoose would not even look
+at the Rat.&nbsp; And I maintain that the mongoose cannot compare with
+the ferret anytime, for the simple reason that a small ferret can get
+anywhere that a Rat can, whilst the mongoose must wait until the Rat
+comes out to feed.&nbsp; For instance, if a board <!-- page 21--><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>of
+a floor be left up for a mongoose to get under the floor, it can only
+get into one of the joists; but a ferret can follow a Rat wherever it
+goes.&nbsp; Then again, the Rats can smell a mongoose even more strongly
+than they can smell a cat.&nbsp; So these facts prevent my recommending
+a mongoose on any account.&nbsp; I have also heard of people experimenting
+with different sorts of</p>
+<h3>DRUGS AND CHEMICALS</h3>
+<p>for enticing Rats out of their holes.&nbsp; I hope none of my readers
+will be attracted with this device.&nbsp; I hold that there is nothing
+that will tempt a Rat from its hole like hunger.&nbsp; The nearest approach
+that I have found to entice the Rodent out of its hole is oil of aniseed
+or oil of rhodium, but the latter is expensive.&nbsp; I can rely best
+on oil of aniseed, because I have often successfully tried it in experiment
+upon the plate of a set trap.&nbsp; I have placed only three or four
+drops of oil of aniseed upon the plate of a set trap without bait, and
+often the trap has closed and trapped the Rat by the nose; so that it
+will be seen that the Rat must have been licking the plate, or it could
+not be caught in that manner.&nbsp; I have also frequently noticed when
+I have set, say, 20 traps covered with meal and sawdust mixed, that
+if I have put only two drops of oil of aniseed on half the <!-- page 22--><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>traps
+I should find next morning on looking at the traps that most Rats are
+in those in which I had placed the aniseed.&nbsp; I think that oil of
+rhodium and oil of aniseed are very good to drop on the traps after
+setting, or to mix with the stuff with which the traps are covered.</p>
+<p>There is also another way of bolting Rats.&nbsp; Sometimes when the
+ferret is put under a boarded floor, all the Rats will run together
+and pack themselves in a heap at the end of a joist.&nbsp; When the
+Rats pack themselves on each other thus, the ferret on reaching them
+will tackle only one at a time.&nbsp; You can always tell when this
+happens by the ferret working a long time and bolting no Rats.&nbsp;
+Now, immediately you notice this, put your mouth near the hole where
+you have put the ferrets in, and make a squealing noise with your mouth
+to imitate a squealing Rat.&nbsp; This causes the heap of Rats at the
+end of the joist to disperse through fear, and when they get running
+about they will bolt into the net.&nbsp; Many times I have not had a
+bolt for half-an-hour and when I have squealed at the hole I have had
+four or five Rats in the nets at once.</p>
+<p>These are some of the methods of clearing Rats from various places,
+and from experience I think they excel all others.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 23--><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>PART II.&nbsp;
+HOW TO KEEP AND WORK FERRETS.</h2>
+<p>The first necessity in ferret-keeping is that they shall be kept
+in hutches or &ldquo;cotes,&rdquo; as they are commonly called.&nbsp;
+Care must always be taken to have their places well swilled with carbolic
+water, and then allowed to thoroughly dry before whitewashing the inside,
+which is also essential to keep them healthy.&nbsp; This should be done
+at least four times a year.&nbsp; Always have your hutches leaning from
+the wall, so that wet or refuse will not lodge, for when the bottom
+of a hutch is always wet it is liable to give the ferrets a disease
+called foot rot, which is very frequent where ferrets are neglected.&nbsp;
+Always keep the feeding part of the hutch well covered with sawdust.</p>
+<p>In feeding ferrets for the purpose of Rat-catching, never do so before
+going out with them; I think it is quite sufficient to feed them every
+24 hours.&nbsp; If you feed them oftener they are liable to get too
+fat, and also lazy and unwilling to work as they should.&nbsp; The best
+food you can give them is bread and <!-- page 24--><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>milk,
+and occasionally a little raw liver.&nbsp; Mix the bread and milk with
+a little hot water, stir well with a spoon or squeeze through your fingers,
+so that the ferrets will have to eat it where you feed them; if not
+they will carry the large pieces of bread that are wet into the corners
+of the sleeping place, which would soon cause that part of the hutch
+to smell very sour and become injurious to the health of the ferret,
+especially where four or five are kept together, as they are of a very
+perspiring nature.&nbsp; Always give them plenty of room to run about
+when you can; if you don&rsquo;t they are likely to take cramp.</p>
+<p>Ferrets are usually subject to distemper.&nbsp; The first symptom
+is the ferret&rsquo;s neglect of its food.&nbsp; When you see this you
+will observe a little matter at the corner of the eyes, and the ferret
+will have a slight running at the nostrils.&nbsp; Immediately you see
+these symptoms separate that ferret from the others, as this is, I think,
+the worst disease one has to contend with.</p>
+<p>In the whole of my ferret-keeping experience I have found distemper,
+if caught in time, can be cured; but if it gets too far I know of no
+cure for it.&nbsp; I have known a gamekeeper to have dogs with the distemper,
+and he has not touched his ferrets or handled them at all <!-- page 25--><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>during
+the time his dogs were bad, yet a week afterwards his ferrets caught
+the disease.&nbsp; He tried all the remedies he knew of, but in 14 days
+12 hitherto good, strong, healthy ferrets died: all he had.&nbsp; This
+will show at once that the disease is very contagious.&nbsp; The moment
+you see signs of distemper coming on feed the ferret as little as possible.&nbsp;
+Give it as little to eat as will just keep life in it, for in feeding
+the ferret you also feed the disease.&nbsp; When you have kept the food
+from it is the time to start curing if possible.&nbsp; Now, from experience
+the first thing I recommend is to sweat the disease out of it, and I
+find the best way to do this is as follows:&mdash;Get an old bucket
+with a few one-inch holes bored in the bottom, and almost fill it with
+good new straw horse-droppings; put a little hay on the top of the droppings,
+and then put the ferret on the hay.&nbsp; Place or hang the bucket over
+a boiler or on the mantelpiece, and let the kettle steam under the bucket,
+say for 30 minutes, and you will find the steam and the ammonia from
+the droppings will together sweat the disease out of the ferret; then
+you can start feeding it again.&nbsp; Feed it with something substantial,
+such as the jelly from stewed cowheels; give them the jelly only, not
+the meat; and you will have a good result.&nbsp; Also give them a <!-- page 26--><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>teaspoonful
+of cream.&nbsp; This is the one and only cure for distemper.</p>
+<p>Another disease in ferrets, especially young ones, is what I call
+&ldquo;red mange.&rdquo;&nbsp; This starts always under the belly, and
+you will find that the skin becomes very red and speckled.&nbsp; This
+is easily remedied by the simple process of washing in lukewarm water
+and rubbing with sweet oil and black sulphur.&nbsp; The same mixture
+will answer for &ldquo;foot rot&rdquo; if rubbed well into the paws.&nbsp;
+The general cause of this latter disease is neglect of the ferrets and
+the hutches not being cleaned out regularly.</p>
+<p>I think the best bedding for ferrets is good oat straw, fresh every
+fortnight.&nbsp; Throw the straw in carelessly, and the ferrets will
+make their own beds.&nbsp; When breeding ferrets, never go near them
+more than you can help, as they are of a wild nature and liable to destroy
+their young.&nbsp; When you know a Jill or bitch ferret has young, give
+her a little extra good food, but don&rsquo;t interfere with the young
+ones on any account, and if you want to give her a little extra bedding
+put the straw in the same place as the food, and she will take it into
+the sleeping place herself.&nbsp; It is advisable not to touch the young
+ones for five weeks, or better still leave them until they come out
+to feed themselves; and when running about, if there <!-- page 27--><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>be
+a good number, say nine or ten, in the lot, it is a good plan to remove
+them into a larger place for sleeping, as young ferrets are very liable
+to catch the red mange, which arises from too many being together and
+sweating very much.</p>
+<h3>WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RAT-CATCHING</h3>
+<p>always work them unmuzzled.&nbsp; Make as little noise as possible,
+as Rats are very bad to bolt sometimes.&nbsp; Never grab at the ferret
+as it leaves the hole, nor tempt it out of the hole with a dead Rat.&nbsp;
+The best way is to let the ferret come out of its own choice, and then
+pick it up very quietly, for if you grab at it, it is likely to become
+what we call a &ldquo;stopper;&rdquo; and never on any account force
+a ferret to go into a hole.</p>
+<h3>WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RABBIT-SHOOTING</h3>
+<p>always muzzle them.&nbsp; The old-fashioned style of muzzle is, I
+think, the best, that is, made with string.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t approve
+of wire muzzles, as they are liable to catch against tree roots and
+bits of sharp stones, and from experience I find the ferret works much
+better with the string muzzle.</p>
+<p>There is one way of working ferrets when rabbit-shooting which, if
+followed, I think would lead to a better day&rsquo;s shooting.&nbsp;
+You will often see the ferrets stick up with the <!-- page 28--><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>rabbits.&nbsp;
+Now, in most cases the gamekeeper or his man working the ferrets will
+often cut open a dead rabbit and put the paunch to the burrow.&nbsp;
+I quite agree as to the desirability of this to get the ferrets out,
+but I say that the man using the ferrets ought never to touch the paunch,
+as the ferrets will not work half so well after he has the smell of
+the paunch on his hands.</p>
+<p>Another bad plan is that of throwing a dead rabbit into the burrow
+so that the ferret will follow it out.&nbsp; The best plan is to let
+the ferret get clear of the hole, and then pick it up quietly.&nbsp;
+If you will break your ferrets in in this manner you will never have
+any trouble with them afterwards.</p>
+<p>When ferrets are conveyed about for the purpose of rabbiting, boxes
+are much better to use than bags, as the ferrets then get a better chance
+of resting.&nbsp; If bags be used you disturb the ferrets&rsquo; rest
+and position each time you remove one.&nbsp; Take care to observe this
+and it will result in a good day&rsquo;s sport.</p>
+<p>Always take your ferrets home as quickly as possible after a day&rsquo;s
+work.</p>
+<p>Ferrets kept only for rabbit-shooting should always be fed as soon
+as the day&rsquo;s work is over, but they must not have more food till
+the same time the following day.&nbsp; If fed in <!-- page 29--><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>this
+way regularly you will find that they will work very well.&nbsp; It
+is also advisable to let them drink at a stream when they have worked
+about three hours.</p>
+<p>When ferrets have been fast in a rabbit burrow, their paws may be
+full of down with scratching at the rabbits.&nbsp; Always remove this
+before placing them to another burrow.&nbsp; Each time you handle the
+ferret see that the muzzle is alright, and in muzzling with string great
+care should be taken to remove the long hair on the snout from under
+the string; otherwise the ferret may experience a tickling sensation,
+and not work so well as it should; see also that the string is tied
+tightly around the ferret&rsquo;s neck; if not it can easily pull off
+the muzzle with its paws.</p>
+<p>Whenever a ferret is severely bitten by a Rat the best course to
+take immediately you get it home is to bathe the wound in clean luke-warm
+water.&nbsp; See that all the dirt is removed, and then apply a few
+drops of sweet oil to the wound.&nbsp; Repeat this every four hours,
+until the wound is healed, but until then do not work the ferret lest
+more dirt gets into the wound.&nbsp; My experience proves this to be
+the best way to cure a ferret when it has received a severe Rat-bite.</p>
+<p>It is also a good plan occasionally (say <!-- page 30--><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>once
+a fortnight) to skin a nice young Rat and give it to the ferret.</p>
+<h3>SUITABLE DOGS.</h3>
+<p>And now a word or two as to what is a good dog for waterside hunting,
+or working with the ferrets.&nbsp; I recommend a cross-bred dog, but
+I find that it is always better to have the pointer breed in it, whatever
+other breed you get, because the pointer always has the nose or scent.&nbsp;
+Pointer and Airedale would be very good, or pointer and Irish terrier.&nbsp;
+I have often noticed that pure-bred dogs are not much good for hunting
+in buildings or rivers.&nbsp; I have frequently seen a cross-bred dog
+stand at one side of the river, and if the wind has been in his favour
+he has winded his nose across the river, and I have sent him over and
+he has turned a Rat out, bolted it into the water, and killed it.</p>
+<p>The best precaution to take in breaking a dog to Rat-catching and
+waterside hunting (especially if it be a puppy) is to never allow anybody
+but yourself to have anything to do with it, it being the worst thing
+possible to let a working dog have too many masters.&nbsp; Break it
+in to the ferrets first, and then it is a good plan to go up the river
+banks, with either a dead Rat or rabbit skin, letting the dog play with
+it for a while, and then burying it about <!-- page 31--><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>18
+inches in the river bank; or you may pull up a clod and put it under,
+only you must not let the dog see where you place it.&nbsp; Then take
+the dog with you near to where the rat or skin is buried, and you will
+soon see that the dog knows its work.&nbsp; Do this a few times, and
+you will see that once the dog finds the dead Rat or the skin it will
+never forget.&nbsp; The younger the dog the better, the right age to
+break a puppy this way being about four or five months.&nbsp; Break
+it in for taking to the water at the same time.&nbsp; If you want a
+good working dog always keep it on the chain when at home, and feed
+it at the same time as the ferrets, but do not over-feed it; also give
+it one dose of castor oil or syrup of buckthorn every 14 days.&nbsp;
+I recommend this because you never know the nasty poisonous stuff that
+the dog gets on its stomach from the dirty brook and river sides.</p>
+<p>Let me add that all I have written about ferrets and dogs are not
+given merely from hearsay, but are the facts derived from study and
+experience during 25 years of dog and ferret-keeping.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 32--><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>PART III.&nbsp;
+THE HABITS OF RATS.</h2>
+<p>Rats breed very quickly.&nbsp; This I have often proved by visiting
+a given haunt for many years together.&nbsp; I remember an instance
+in point one June, when out with dog and ferrets.&nbsp; The dog made
+a set under the root of a tree.&nbsp; I put the ferret in and it bolted
+eight young Rats, nearly half grown, still suckling the bitch Rat.&nbsp;
+When the old Rat bolted my dog killed it, and whilst the dog was shaking
+it I found she was very heavy in young again.&nbsp; This, therefore,
+will prove how quickly Rats breed.</p>
+<p>Another result of my observation may be of interest to my readers.&nbsp;
+After removing a lot of old rubbish when ratting I came upon a nest
+of just-born Rats, and, in curiosity, I cut the tails off the lot, and
+then put the young Rodents back, leaving the nest undisturbed.&nbsp;
+When I returned next day, I found the old Rat had carried all her young
+away, and, later, I found the same tailless lot in another part of the
+building, and, after disturbing them again, I found the following day
+that the bitch Rat had killed every one by eating off their heads.&nbsp;
+<!-- page 33--><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>This destruction of
+the offspring I have witnessed on more than one occasion.&nbsp; The
+old bitch Rat has always killed them in the same way by eating off their
+heads.</p>
+<p>I must not forget to tell you of the young Rat&rsquo;s dread of the
+ferrets.&nbsp; I have often seen when the ferrets have been put in the
+hole the young Rats (not many days old and their eyes yet unopened)
+creep out of the hole.&nbsp; This is a proof that the smell of the ferrets
+has a tendency to bolt Rats, either young or old.</p>
+<p>Old Rats are very bold whilst suckling their young.&nbsp; I have
+seen them very venturesome to get to water, and more eager for water
+than for food.&nbsp; I have often traced their runs a long way for water,
+and noticed that when crossing a field to get to a pit or river they
+never walk, but are always on the run; and in the summer, when they
+reach the pit, they not only drink, but often swim about.&nbsp; I have
+frequently watched them swimming on a moonlight night, but they generally
+go back to the buildings in the early morning, especially in the winter
+months.</p>
+<p>Another habit I have often noticed.&nbsp; Take a farm, or any place
+where there are many Rats, and it will be always found that when a Rat
+gets very old it becomes very greyish in colour and rather scabbed,
+and its hair comes <!-- page 34--><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>off,
+mostly on the back.&nbsp; The healthy Rats will then drive the old Rat
+away, and these scabby old Rats may be caught by themselves in other
+parts of the buildings; and, further, I often notice that if the ferrets
+are bitten with these old Rats, they &ldquo;take bad ways.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I never put such Rats with the others nor allow my dog to kill them.&nbsp;
+I would advise any gentleman having a dog he values never to let it
+touch one of these old scabby Rats, as it may prove injurious to the
+health of the dog.</p>
+<p>It is surprising how far Rats will travel in the night.&nbsp; I have
+traced their tracks from a stackyard over two or three fields to a farm
+to get to their food.&nbsp; And you will always find that they have
+one time for feeding, which is as soon as it is dusk, the young Rats
+being the most venturesome for their food, always coming out first.</p>
+<p>Rats, especially stackyard ones, are of a very clean nature.&nbsp;
+You will find that after they have had their first feed they diligently
+wash themselves.&nbsp; These Rats feed on nothing but good stuff, such
+as wheat, corn, and meal; and from experience I find that if a man is
+bitten on the hand by one of these Brown or Stack Rats it never &ldquo;takes
+bad ways,&rdquo; but, if bitten by a dirty Drain Rat, then whether he
+cauterises or bathes the wound is no matter, <!-- page 35--><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>it
+is sure to &ldquo;take bad ways.&rdquo;&nbsp; I think the reason of
+this is because the Drain Rat, when it cannot get anything else to eat,
+exists on the worms and slugs, and this, I think, causes the teeth to
+become more venomous.&nbsp; When bitten in this way blood poisoning
+is very likely to ensue.&nbsp; Indeed, you must understand that the
+teeth of a full-grown Rat are quite half-an-inch long, and the jaw is
+very strong, so that if you are bitten on the finger it is almost sure
+to penetrate to the bone.&nbsp; I have known a good many cases of blood
+poisoning through Rat-bites.</p>
+<p>The damage Rats can do to property, commodities, etc., is almost
+incredible.&nbsp; I have had so many examples of this that I scarcely
+know which to submit as illustration.&nbsp; I think the worst case I
+have seen was where they gnawed a hole half way through a 2&frac14;
+inch lead pipe, and often I have known them to bite through a one-inch
+lead pipe.&nbsp; The worst damage is done when they get under the flag
+floors of cottage houses out of the drains.&nbsp; They scratch the soil
+from beneath the flags, which then sink, and the consequent stench from
+the drains is abominable, jeopardising the health of the tenants.&nbsp;
+I have seen a great many of these cases in the poorer parts of Manchester.&nbsp;
+The damage the Rats will do <!-- page 36--><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>in
+the silk and similar trades, to the goods of merchants, or in the grocery
+business, is enormous, and not so much by reason of what they actually
+eat as by what they carry away, which is often ten times as much as
+they eat.&nbsp; I have often proved this when ferreting at a wholesale
+grocery warehouse.&nbsp; When we have taken up the boards between the
+laths and plaster we have found the ceiling almost full of lump sugar,
+nuts, candles, etc., which have been there for years, hoarded by the
+Rats.&nbsp; Now, this all means heavy loss, and that is why I say that
+any business man so suffering ought to engage the services of a professional
+Rat-catcher once a year in order to keep the Rats down, and catch as
+many as possible before they begin breeding.</p>
+<p>Another Rat habit may be noticed where the Rodents are accustomed
+to have their holes and runs among flags and stones.&nbsp; If they find
+any soft wood such as pine or white deal, they will nibble at it until
+it is eaten through.&nbsp; I have often known them to eat right through
+the legs of tables in the middle of cooking kitchens.&nbsp; This, I
+think, they do simply to keep their teeth clean and in order; I have
+known half-grown Rats to do the same.</p>
+<p>Rats can exist a long time on herbage, if they can get nothing more
+palatable.&nbsp; It is <!-- page 37--><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>a
+very common thing to find Rats in the rabbit burrows when ferreting;
+in fact, I have seen, not once, but many times, Rats, rabbits, and weasels
+all bolt from the same burrow.&nbsp; I have also unearthed a Rat and
+a rabbit together out of one single burrow.</p>
+<p>Now as to keeping Rats in store cages at home.&nbsp; Look well after
+them, and I think it is possible to keep them alive for quite a year;
+but if you keep, say, 20 in one store cage and neglect their feeding,,
+you will find that when hungry in the night they will kill the weakest
+of their number and eat it, sometimes even eating two or three in one
+night, leaving the skin as clean as if a man had skinned them.&nbsp;
+It is always the best plan to put the Rats in different cages, according
+to their sizes.&nbsp; The young ones together, the old ones together,
+and the middle-aged ones together, as they keep themselves much cleaner
+when thus divided, and do not fight so much as they would otherwise.&nbsp;
+They must also be kept in a warm place; if not, they soon have cramp.&nbsp;
+Also keep them in a dark place and see that they have plenty of water;
+sprinkle them now and then with it so that they will wash themselves.&nbsp;
+It is astonishing what a hungry Rat will do.&nbsp; I have seen them
+in the summer at dusk run at an old hen with her chickens under her,
+<!-- page 38--><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>and almost as quick
+as I tell it, the Rat has snatched a live chicken and run with it under
+a pigsty floor.</p>
+<p>I have known them to take half-grown young ducks from the water side.&nbsp;
+I remember once ferreting round a pit, near a barn, and when I put my
+ferret in the hole, it pulled out two dead chickens and three middle-sized
+dead ducks, and behind them, not more than a yard deep in the pit bank,
+was an old Rat.&nbsp; I have also known them to get into the coops where
+a gamekeeper was rearing his pheasants, and to kill nine young ones
+in a single night all from under the same hen.</p>
+<p>Rats are also fond of eggs.&nbsp; I have read of many ways in which
+Rats take eggs, but in my quarter-of-a-century&rsquo;s experience of
+Ratting I never saw Rats take eggs save in one way, and that is, dragging
+or rolling them along the floor with their front paws, until they get
+them to the mouth of the hole.&nbsp; I remember one place where I was
+ferreting.&nbsp; There was an old cellar, the door of which at the top
+of the steps had to my knowledge been nailed up two or three years.&nbsp;
+Out of the hen house the Rats had eaten a hole at each side of the cellar
+door at the bottom.&nbsp; One day we burst open the door, went into
+the cellar (where it was impossible for a hen to get whilst the <!-- page 39--><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>door
+was closed) and beneath the bottom step we caught two Rats.&nbsp; On
+lifting the flag at the bottom of the steps, we found 15 whole eggs,
+some good and some bad, all of which I am quite satisfied the Rats had
+carried down those nine stone steps!&nbsp; How they had done so I cannot
+explain, but content myself with stating only the plain facts of my
+own personal observation.</p>
+<p>Rats are also very cunning in the water, say a pit or a river.&nbsp;
+Now, a Rat can exist in water for at most about seven minutes, and you
+will find when a dog is swimming after a Rat that the Rat is watching
+the dog all the time, for as soon as the dog gets within a yard of the
+Rat the latter will dive under water and come to the surface again about
+15 yards away.&nbsp; When the dog has tired the Rat out with swimming,
+you will very often see the Rat dive again and come up very quietly
+and just put its nose out of the water, or rest its head on a floating
+leaf.&nbsp; It is so cunning that it will remain still there, and if
+the leaf or reed gives way it will come up at the water side and just
+thrust out its nose to breathe.&nbsp; By this means the dog loses full
+scent of the Rat.</p>
+<p>I have also noticed how useful are the Rat&rsquo;s front paws and
+tail.&nbsp; I have seen a Rat on the top of a swill tub at a pigsty,
+when the <!-- page 40--><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>swill has
+been about ten inches from the top of the tub.&nbsp; The Rat was too
+cunning to jump down on the wet swill and drown, but I saw it reach
+as far down the inside of the tub as possible with its front paws and
+scrape the grease from around the sides!&nbsp; I have also seen the
+same Rat, when unable to scrape any further down the tub sides, turn
+round, clutch the top of the tub with its front paws, dip its tail into
+the swill, and then gain the top of the tub and commence licking its
+tail.</p>
+<p>I have also tried an experiment with the same tub, which consisted
+of covering the top of the wet swill with bran, which floated on the
+surface, and placing a bit of lumpy swill in the middle of the bran,
+in the hope that the Rat would jump on the bran in the expectation of
+getting at the swill in the middle.&nbsp; However, it did not do so,
+no doubt instinctively guided against the danger.</p>
+<p>I have also watched Rats run round a set wire or cage trap for a
+full hour.&nbsp; I have seen them go half way in and out again, look
+at the bait and never touch it, but go away and never return to the
+same trap that night.&nbsp; These examples show the cunning instinct
+of Rats.</p>
+<p>There is, however, one power that the Rat is not favoured with, and
+I am afraid if they were they would be a greater pest.&nbsp; It is the
+<!-- page 41--><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>ability of high jumping.&nbsp;
+A Rat cannot, I think, jump higher than three feet six inches, and will
+have to be very hungry before doing that to obtain food.</p>
+<p>Many people may not know how fierce Rats are when fighting.&nbsp;
+Let me instance.&nbsp; I have often taken, one in each hand, two good
+Rats from my cage before a hundred spectators and set the Rats at each
+other on the top of a table.&nbsp; To see them fight would be surprising.&nbsp;
+They will fight like two bulldogs.&nbsp; When they have got a grip of
+each other with their teeth I have taken away my hands, and they have
+stuck and shook one another for at least half-a-minute, although you
+must understand that the moment they are loose of one another they are
+off if you don&rsquo;t catch them again.</p>
+<p>There are several other cunning ways of Rats which I can scarcely
+explain.&nbsp; One must be amongst them regularly to know their wonderful
+ways and habits.&nbsp; Yet another little incident, in conclusion, may
+be of interest.&nbsp; I once called at a farm where they had been threshing
+a wheat stack.&nbsp; A Rat-catcher had been there but without a dog,
+and when I arrived two hours afterwards my dog made a set, and commenced
+scratching amongst the old chaff left at the bottom of the stack, and
+to the astonishment of myself and the farmer <!-- page 42--><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>I
+pulled out of the hole where the dog was scratching 73 live Rats!&nbsp;
+The other Rat-catcher, who had been at the threshing all day, had caught
+only 14 Rats.&nbsp; This will serve to show that a Rat-catcher must
+not be without a good dog.</p>
+<p>And now, respecting the ways and habits of Rats I think I have given
+my readers interesting and varied illustrations of what I have seen
+and experienced during my time.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 43--><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>PART IV.&nbsp;
+LIFE OF THE RAT-CATCHER.</h2>
+<p>This work will not be complete if I do not deal with the Rat-catcher&rsquo;s
+life.&nbsp; The profession is a peculiar and exciting one, but all right
+if pursued in the right way.&nbsp; Although the calling takes one into
+dirty and obnoxious places, there is no reason why the Rat-catcher should
+not always appear respectable.&nbsp; The Rat-catcher has many temptations
+to dishonest conducts, for instance, when Rat-catching on a farm or
+private estate where there are numerous rabbits and game.&nbsp; It looks
+rather hard lines for the Rat-catcher to come off a farm with his cage
+full of Rats and see rabbits running about whilst he has all the requisites
+in his possession for catching them; and yet he must not touch one,
+but go home and merely reflect on what a good Sunday&rsquo;s dinner
+he is leaving behind.&nbsp; This I have experienced many a time, but
+I have always found even from the business view-point that the old <!-- page 44--><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>advice
+still remains true, &ldquo;Honesty is the best policy.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+Leaving the rabbits to themselves has always turned out to be the best,
+for to take a rabbit worth a shilling, and get caught in the act, means
+that you can never go on the same estate again.&nbsp; And from that
+same estate you might have got 500 Rats in a year, worth four shillings
+a dozen.</p>
+<p>I must also put in a good word here for the gamekeepers.&nbsp; My
+opinion is that if you go on a keeper&rsquo;s ground and do what is
+right, you will be able to go again, for in the whole of my experience
+never having carried any nets but Rat nets when on private estates,
+I have the consolation of knowing that I should always be welcome on
+going again to such estates.</p>
+<p>Of course there are inconveniences that the Rat-catcher has to put
+up with.&nbsp; Whatever engagements he takes in a town, the only time
+he can catch Rats with a good result is in the night.&nbsp; On one occasion,
+when going round with my bull&rsquo;s-eye lamp to examine the traps,
+I was taken for a burglar by the policeman on the beat, and he doubted
+me so much that he would not release me until I had shown him my cage
+with Rats in and my traps set all over the place.&nbsp; Then he took
+almost as much interest in the catching of Rats as myself, and also
+brought in the other policemen who were <!-- page 45--><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>outside
+waiting for me to attempt an escape.&nbsp; Ever after that, when I had
+a night&rsquo;s engagement in any town, I always went to the police
+station to tell the man on that beat where I was.</p>
+<p>It behoves the Rat-catcher to be always attentive to his customers,
+those, I mean, who want live Rats wherewith to try their dogs.&nbsp;
+Amongst mine I have the honour to include clients of highest rank and
+position, barristers, magistrates, solicitors and a host of sporting
+gentry.&nbsp; If the Rat-catcher&rsquo;s efforts commend themselves
+to such gentlemen, and he always maintains a respectable appearance,
+he will obtain some very nice outings in the country.&nbsp; Oft-times
+a party of gentlemen have sent for me in the summer, having arranged
+with me to bring four or five ferrets and Ratting appliances, and we
+have gone 50 miles up the country.&nbsp; They would bring their terrier
+dogs, and we would hunt all along the brooks and rivers, and round the
+corn and wheat fields, putting the Rats we caught into the cage, and
+after lunch, taking the Rats to a meadow and coursing them with their
+dogs, which I think it real good sport.&nbsp; We would put up at the
+best hotels and repeat the procedure next day, very often taking a drag
+or coach, and driving ten or a dozen miles farther up the country.</p>
+<p><!-- page 46--><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>I can assure my
+readers that the Rat-catcher is well remunerated for the trouble he
+undertakes in these cases, and moreover this is the class of people
+he requires to fraternise with.&nbsp; There is always a plentiful supply
+of &ldquo;refreshments&rdquo; on these outings, and I would therefore
+advise the Rat-catcher not to indulge too freely.</p>
+<p>The foregoing is, of course, a brief sketch of the pleasantest part
+of a Rat-catcher&rsquo;s life, and to complete the picture I may as
+well describe some of the other features, and the way he has to rough
+it sometimes.&nbsp; Well, Rat-catchers are generally called upon to
+supply Rats for the Rat coursings usually held at beerhouses, etc.,
+on Saturday afternoons, which one often sees advertised.&nbsp; Now,
+if he binds himself to supply a coursing at a certain date, the bills
+announcing the event are printed and posted, all of which means expense.&nbsp;
+Then you are bound to secure the live Rats, whatever be the weather.&nbsp;
+In doing this I always followed the threshing machine to the bays and
+stacks.&nbsp; (Anyone that catches Rats regularly can tell by looking
+at the bays or stacks whether there are many Rats in or not.)&nbsp;
+I remember many times when the men have started threshing a bay of wheat
+in which were a great many Rats, and by dark they <!-- page 47--><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>have
+threshed only half of the bay.&nbsp; At such times the Rat-catcher must
+not leave the remaining half, no, not for half-an-hour throughout the
+whole night, for if he does the Rats will run out.&nbsp; To stop the
+Rats from leaving, the Rat-catcher has to lie on the top of the bay
+or go about every thirty minutes and beat the bottom with sticks until
+daylight, in order to keep the Rats in.&nbsp; Then, after the machine
+re-starts, and the bottom of the bay is reached, the Rat-catcher will
+be well paid for his trouble, for he may get, say, 150 good Rats for
+the coursing, at six shillings per dozen.&nbsp; The reason I call them
+good coursing Rats is because they have not been handled, and that enables
+them to run well.</p>
+<p>Now, when you go to these coursings (which are mostly in the colliery
+districts) you will find about 60 dogs entered.&nbsp; It is the Rat-catcher&rsquo;s
+business to measure and handicap the dogs, and a very unpleasant job
+it is.&nbsp; He has also to be the referee at these coursings, and if
+it is a &ldquo;near thing&rdquo; with two dogs running at one rat, and
+you decide to award the victory to a given one, then the owner of the
+other dog will probably accuse you of wrong-doing and favouritism.&nbsp;
+Then is the time the Rat-catcher has to be prepared to pull off his
+coat and start fighting before, <!-- page 48--><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>perhaps,
+500 spectators.&nbsp; This has often occurred with me.&nbsp; This, I
+can assure my readers, is what I call &ldquo;roughing it.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Of course, what I have just related occurred a few years ago, but
+when the Muzzling Order came into force, the authorities practically
+stopped Rat coursing, for they would not let a dog run at a Rat unless
+the dog was muzzled.&nbsp; This was about the worst thing that the authorities
+could do for Manchester and district, for at that time I was supplying
+for coursings about 100 Rats per week, and at the same time sending
+50 Rats a week into Yorkshire, and all the Rats I supplied were caught
+within 15 miles of Manchester.&nbsp; This in my opinion, speaks very
+bad of the Muzzling Order, which I think is nothing but a farce, for
+at the very time I was going ratting, dogs were muzzled in some parts
+of the country but not in others.&nbsp; My opinion of dog muzzling is,
+muzzle all or muzzle none.</p>
+<p>You will see by what I have said respecting these coursings, etc.,
+that the Rat-catcher has plenty of work to supply so many live rats,
+and he has also to mix with company high and low.&nbsp; He also sometimes
+experiences difficulties in travelling on the railway.&nbsp; I have
+often entered an empty third-class carriage, sent my dog under the seat,
+and <!-- page 49--><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>put the Rat cage
+there also.&nbsp; The carriage would fill with passengers, and upon
+reaching my destination I would take from under the seat my cage full
+of live Rats, to the amusement of some and the disgust of others.</p>
+<p>I have also entered a railway carriage with my cage of rats when
+there were passengers in, one or two of whom would generally object
+to live Rats being in the same compartment, and on enquiring of the
+railway officials, I have found that any one travelling with live Rats
+is expected to put them in the guard&rsquo;s van.</p>
+<p>I have also had a few good customers in my business, one or two in
+particular.&nbsp; Gentlemen have often sent me post-cards instructing
+me to take six or twelve Rats to their residences.&nbsp; I would run
+them out on the lawn in front of the house with their dogs, and generally
+I have received good remuneration for my trouble.&nbsp; These are the
+customers who should be looked well after, for they are the sportsmen
+who do not consider expense, though of course there are others who are
+just the opposite.</p>
+<p>Further, Rat-catching is a business in which one is not called upon
+to allow credit.&nbsp; It is all a ready-money trade, and as there is
+not much competition, the Rat-catcher can command a good price for his
+work.&nbsp; He has always one resource open to him when he has <!-- page 50--><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>finished
+a job according to contract (catching say 40 or 50 Rats), should there
+be a dispute about the price and the people decline to pay the bill,
+then he has the expedient of letting the Rats at liberty again in the
+place where he had caught them.&nbsp; Most people will pay the price
+you send in rather than have the Rats turned loose again.</p>
+<p>Although I am showing how the Rat-catcher can always have the advantage
+of stubborn payers, I may as well assure my readers that in all my experience
+such an occurrence as the above has never happened with me, simply because
+I always make my arrangements beforehand, which course I always find
+the best and most satisfactory all round.</p>
+<p>Another matter I may mention.&nbsp; If any one could find out a sure
+way of catching Rats so that he could give a guarantee to clear large
+buildings, my opinion is that he would make a fortune in a very short
+time; for I know firms in Manchester alone that would pay almost any
+amount to be rid of the Rats; not only because of what they consume,
+but more for the damage they do to their goods.</p>
+<p>I have referred to the Rat-catcher obtaining good pay.&nbsp; The
+reason he commands such a big price for his work at the present time
+is because there is not much sale for live Rats.&nbsp; <!-- page 51--><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>The
+trade is not what it was some years ago when Rat-pits were allowed.&nbsp;
+I think it was one of the worst things they ever did for this country
+when the authorities stopped the Rat pits, for when Rat killing was
+allowed in pits, it was a common thing for a Rat-catcher to receive
+an order for 100 Rats, all to be killed at one time; then the Rat-catcher
+would get the Rats and wherever he got them from he was ridding that
+district of a nuisance.&nbsp; But when the authorities stopped Rat-pits
+and Rat-coursing, the consequence was that the Rat-catcher left the
+Rats to breed in thousands.&nbsp; Rats being vermin, I don&rsquo;t see
+why they should not be killed 50 or 100 at a time in the pit, but the
+Humane Society maintain that it is cruelty to dogs to put them in a
+pit with a lot of Rats.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t see where the cruelty comes
+in, but from what I have seen of Rat-pits during my time I approve of
+them, and I think if they were in existence again there would be a clearing
+of many thousands of Rats.&nbsp; Some 15 or 20 years since, I supplied
+400 Rats in one week, all to be killed in Rat-pits.</p>
+<p>Many of my readers may not understand what a Rat-pit is, and so I
+will just give an outline as well as I can.</p>
+<p>The Rat-pit is of circular construction, say ten feet diameter, and
+about four feet six <!-- page 52--><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>inches
+deep, the sides being perfectly smooth to prevent the rats climbing
+up and making their escape.&nbsp; A certain number of Rats are placed
+in the pit according to the arrangements made with the owner of the
+dog.&nbsp; Then the dog is put in the pit with the rats to kill them,
+which a good dog does very quickly.</p>
+<p>The reason the pit is built circular is so that the Rats will keep
+running round, for if it were square they would all run in a corner,
+one on the other, and then the dog would have no difficulty in killing
+them.&nbsp; It is better to have the pit fairly deep; if not, the rats
+might escape.</p>
+<p>I think the best dog, within my recollection, that I have seen was
+a bull and fox terrier, which killed 40 good Rats in three minutes and
+21 seconds.&nbsp; I have read and heard of dogs doing better feats,
+but I am only writing of what I have myself seen.&nbsp; I may say that
+the records for Rat-killing in Rat-pits are held by a dog called Jacko,
+which killed 200 Rats in 14 minutes and 37 seconds, and 1,000 Rats in
+less than one hour and 40 minutes.</p>
+<p>The Rat-catcher has also some very dirty jobs to do sometimes.&nbsp;
+Often he has to go under all sorts of cellar floors, both wet and dry,
+but the majority of places are very wet and dirty, for the Rats nearly
+always come out <!-- page 53--><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>of
+some filthy drain, and very often near a water-closet, the abominable
+smell arising from these places being sufficient to cause a fever.</p>
+<p>I remember being once employed at a hospital, and I was paid at the
+rate of 5s. per visit for trapping Rats.&nbsp; Well, I found that 5s.
+per visit did not pay me (I had about 120 traps set all over the place),
+so I went before the committee and requested 8s. per night.&nbsp; The
+committee said they thought 5s. per visit was enough, and one or two
+of them said they thought 8s. per night was above a Rat-catcher&rsquo;s
+pay.&nbsp; Now, as I was not depending on that particular job at the
+time, I turned round and told them what I thought.&nbsp; I told them
+I considered Rat-catching was a skilled occupation, and I also offered
+any of them a five-pound note if they would only follow me under the
+floors at midnight, not to speak of taking the live Rats out of the
+traps in the dark; but I can assure you that none of these gentlemen
+would venture to undertake the task.</p>
+<p>Now, if any of these gentlemen had to do this a few times they would
+not refuse to pay the Rat-catcher the sum he asks, viz., 8s. per night.</p>
+<p>I remember more than once in big places <!-- page 54--><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>such
+as bonding warehouses, when I have been under the floors, my candle
+or lamp has gone out through being knocked over with grabbing at Rats,
+and I have not had a match in my pocket, and have had to grope about
+in the dark trying to find the trap-door where I have got under the
+floors, more often than not putting my hand in a set trap.&nbsp; It
+would be of no use shouting for a light simply because I have been alone.&nbsp;
+It is always better for a Rat-catcher to have assistance for night work,
+but I have done it myself very often.</p>
+<p>Now, the expenses of travelling come very heavy sometimes, for wherever
+the Rat-catcher goes he always has to pay railway fare for himself and
+his dog.</p>
+<p>Another thing I must tell you.&nbsp; Often when I have gone to inspect
+a small building I have found that there were a great many Rats in,
+but I have also known, after inspecting the place, that they have all
+come from the one place, out of the drain.&nbsp; Well, if I have contracted
+to do this job for a lump sum, I could easily clear this place and not
+catch an odd Rat, simply by ferreting them all back into the sewer in
+the daytime, and then making it good; but in most of these cases they
+do not like to pay your bill because you have caught no Rats.&nbsp;
+Still, you have <!-- page 55--><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>driven
+them all down the drains, and after making the drain good they cannot
+get back again into the building.</p>
+<p>Now, in a case like this I always trap them two or three nights and
+catch a few, just to give satisfaction to those engaging me.</p>
+<p>Sometimes gentlemen will write inviting me to meet them at a certain
+farm, and bring my ferrets and a good supply of nets, alleging that
+there are &ldquo;hundreds of Rats in the stacks.&rdquo;&nbsp; I just
+relate this to indicate how anyone not regularly amongst Rats can easily
+be deceived as to their numbers, for a couple of Rats on the thatch
+of a stack, especially when they have young ones, will probably have
+twelve holes eaten in the thatch and underneath the stack, and anyone
+not understanding their habits would think there were a lot of Rats
+in it.</p>
+<p>And it is much the same with workpeople; if they chance to see two
+or three Rats at once, they will say there are &ldquo;scores&rdquo;
+of them.&nbsp; You would also be surprised to see the awful dread that
+tenants have of the Rat-catcher in private houses.&nbsp; When ferreting
+these places they think that if a Rat-catcher has once put his ferrets
+under the floor they will never see another Rat in the place; but depend
+upon it they are very bad to catch in these places.</p>
+<p><!-- page 56--><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>I have often had
+much trouble respecting houses, warehouses, etc., to know whose duty
+it would be to pay the Rat-catcher for his work, the landlord&rsquo;s
+or the tenant&rsquo;s, but I think that the landlord should pay.&nbsp;
+I have had many engagements to catch Rats in newly-built houses before
+they were tenanted.&nbsp; The time the Rats get into these places is
+whilst the workmen are putting the drains in the back yards, leaving
+the drains open at nights.&nbsp; Thence the Rats come out and get under
+the floors, sometimes having to stop there, too, simply because the
+next day the joiners board up the floors and thus block the Rats in
+underneath, and then the Rats can always get into the kitchens up the
+back of the fireplace.&nbsp; Most property owners would do well to take
+note of this fact.</p>
+<p>I must tell my readers, especially those having large shops, etc.,
+that it is a good plan, if possible, to turn off the gas and water every
+night and week-end, for I have seen a good many cases where the Rats
+in the night-time have eaten through a water-pipe, and the place has
+been flooded by morning.&nbsp; It is just the same with a gas-pipe,
+and my opinion is that it is quite possible for fires to be caused by
+Rats in the night-time.&nbsp; Rats are very fond of nibbling and scratching
+at soft wood, and <!-- page 57--><span class="pagenum">p. 57</span>it
+would be an easy matter at a grocer&rsquo;s shop for a Rat to bite or
+scratch through the package of a gross of matches and ignite them, and
+the same cause may prove disastrous with any other inflammable goods.</p>
+<p>Respecting the conveyance of live Rats, the Rat-catcher should always
+be particular to have good strong cages and bags, because if he had
+a number of Rats in an unserviceable bag which happened to break open
+at a railway station or in the street, I think he could be summoned
+for the damage the escaped Rats might do.&nbsp; Still, I have not in
+my time had or heard of a case of this sort.</p>
+<p>Speaking of bags, a good many people seem to think that if a man
+puts his hand into a bagful of Rats they will bite him, but I can assure
+you that a child could do the same thing and not be bitten.&nbsp; Should
+there be only two or three in the bag, then they will bite, but not
+in the event of there being a good number.&nbsp; The same rule applies
+to Rats stored in a cage, where there is open daylight&mdash;if there
+be 40 or 50 Rats together, it is then the habit of the Rats for all
+to cling together, and they will let you handle them anyway if only
+you will have sufficient courage.</p>
+<p>It is very good sport for gentlemen who want a good day&rsquo;s outing
+to go to farms when <!-- page 58--><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>threshing
+is on, and also to go hunting and ferreting round the corn and wheat
+fields, and I think many sporting gentlemen who have not seen such sport
+would indulge in it freely after they had once witnessed it.&nbsp; I
+think it is much better and healthier sport than rabbit-shooting, especially
+in the summer when the farmers are cutting their corn and wheat.</p>
+<p>When catching Rats as a regular pursuit, one is surprised at the
+queer places in which he finds them.&nbsp; I recollect ferreting seven
+full-sized Rats from under the floor of a built dog kennel not above
+four yards square, where a large mastiff and a terrier dog slept every
+night, only a &frac34;-inch board dividing them from the Rats, and the
+Rats having eaten holes through the boards in the kennel!&nbsp; I have
+also found at an out-house an old bitch Rat and nine young ones in an
+old tin trunk without a lid.&nbsp; I have also caught Rats and taken
+young ones out of the nest from under railway sleepers where trains
+have been running and shunting operations carried on every day.&nbsp;
+And I have even taken old and young ones in their nest from a pile of
+Cheshire cheese, at a wholesale cheese and bacon factor&rsquo;s!</p>
+<p>And mentioning cheese in this connection reminds me that once I discovered
+that Rats had scratched and eaten a hole direct through <!-- page 59--><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>the
+bottom lot of cheese in a pile which had only been there three weeks.</p>
+<p>A word or two about what a Rat will do with a ferret.&nbsp; I have
+often seen a Rat run a ferret out of the hole, and then wait with its
+head out of the hole until the ferret has come to it again.&nbsp; I
+remember once ferreting at a hencote, and put the ferret behind the
+hen nest, whereupon the Rat attacked the ferret, which then jumped back
+and died in five minutes, the Rats having given only one bite behind
+the ferret&rsquo;s ear!&nbsp; Of course this is a very rare occurrence.&nbsp;
+True, I have had many ferrets killed by Rats in my time, but it has
+always occurred through the poisonous bite first swelling and then &ldquo;taking
+bad ways,&rdquo; the ferret dying in probably a week or so.</p>
+<p>You must understand that if you put a Rat and a ferret together in
+a tub the ferret would kill the Rat in nine cases out of ten, the nature
+of the Rat being to get away from the ferret if possible; but if it
+cannot it will fight, and I think a Rat, for its size, is of a very
+vicious nature, for I have often seen when trying a puppy at killing
+a Rat in a pit, that a game Rat will run the puppy all round the pit.&nbsp;
+The best way to try a pup to kill a Rat is to draw the teeth of the
+first Rat it secures for sometimes if a pup gets a severe bite from
+a Rat <!-- page 60--><span class="pagenum">p. 60</span>it will never
+look at another.&nbsp; It is a very bad plan to let a pup play with
+a Rat too much, for this causes the pup never to put a hard mouth on
+the Rat.&nbsp; When this latter occurs it is the best plan not to allow
+the same pup to see another Rat until it is a month or two older.&nbsp;
+If you will take care and trouble with a pup you can bring it up to
+your own liking, and to do anything you want.&nbsp; I have worked seven
+years with a curly-coated retriever bitch, and when ferreting a brook
+she would stand in the water and catch the Rats that escaped from the
+nets into the brook and bring them to me alive in her mouth.&nbsp; I
+have sold hundreds of Rats she has caught in this manner, and to show
+you how the dogs can be brought up with the ferrets I need only mention
+that this bitch would lie down and let two ferrets kill a Rat on the
+curly coat of her back.</p>
+<p>Farmers know too well of the many restless nights the cows and horses
+experience through Rats.&nbsp; I have seen when trapping all night at
+a farm the Rats running over the cows and horses whilst sleeping: and
+when horses have been working in the field all day they want better
+rest in the night.&nbsp; I have known when farmers would not let the
+Rat-catcher ferret their buildings gratis, simply because they have
+<!-- page 61--><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>a few hens sitting.&nbsp;
+They don&rsquo;t consider that when the hens have hatched the eggs the
+Rats will take the chickens.&nbsp; Whenever a farmer has refused to
+let me ferret at his farm I have passed that farm ever afterwards.&nbsp;
+To show you the different dispositions of farmers I have met, I may
+mention that when once ferreting at a farm, we caught nine rats and
+lost the ferret, and two days afterwards the ferret was found on the
+farm, and I sent for it, but the farmer demanded two shillings of me
+for the ferret&rsquo;s keep.&nbsp; This same man I may add farmed about
+two hundred acres.</p>
+<p>Of course, there are other farmers just the opposite, who will not
+only pay you for your trouble, but take great interest in helping you
+to catch the Rats.&nbsp; I relate these facts and incidents to show
+you the contrast in the disposition of different people one meets in
+this business.</p>
+<p>I don&rsquo;t think the Rat-catcher&rsquo;s life is one of the worst
+if he looks well after his business, for he has a few advantages over
+other occupations.&nbsp; In the first place, he is his own master, and
+need only doff his coat when he chooses, there being for him no such
+summons to work as a factory bell.&nbsp; And if he fancies a day&rsquo;s
+outing in the country he can always take his dog and ferrets with him,
+and make a <!-- page 62--><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>day&rsquo;s
+pleasure into a remunerative business, by reason of the income from
+the Rats, and I find from experience that the best friends he has are
+his dog and ferrets, if he will look well after them and treat them
+kindly, for I think that a Rat-catcher in the country without a good
+dog might walk over scores of Rats and never know they were there, so
+you will see that his dog is chiefly what he has to trust to.</p>
+<p>And now, in conclusion, let me express the hope that this book will
+prove instructive, entertaining, and profitable to my readers, inasmuch
+as I have endeavoured to make it so to the best of my ability and within
+the somewhat limited scope and sphere of a Rat-catcher&rsquo;s calling.&nbsp;
+Of course, I might have made the narrative portion of the book more
+startling and exciting, had I drawn upon my imagination, but I have
+thought it best to adhere to cold fact and actual experience.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 63--><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>HINTS ON RABBIT
+SHOOTING.</h2>
+<p>Always have your gun made at your gunmaker&rsquo;s to your own liking.</p>
+<p>Always be prepared for the worst of weather, and be sure to have
+good strong boots.</p>
+<p>Never have your gun on full cock while walking about, especially
+whilst going through a fence.</p>
+<p>Never stand too close to a burrow, and don&rsquo;t be too eager to
+shoot.</p>
+<p>Always have your gun pointed upwards to the clouds or down to the
+ground.</p>
+<p>Never shoot at a rabbit as it sits on the top of the hole, or you
+might shoot the ferret.&nbsp; Always stand so that all the shooters
+can see one another.</p>
+<p>Never remove from where the gamekeeper places you.</p>
+<p>Never have your gun barrels up while it is raining.</p>
+<p>When you go out in the country always provide yourself with refreshments
+before starting.</p>
+<p>If you miss an easy shot don&rsquo;t blame the gun.</p>
+<p>Don&rsquo;t be too excited, and get well on the rabbits before you
+pull.</p>
+<p>If the keeper&rsquo;s dog is retrieving rabbits never attempt to
+take one from it.</p>
+<h2><!-- page 64--><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>AUTHOR&rsquo;S
+NOTES.</h2>
+<p><span class="smcap">Ike Matthews</span> is prepared to go out Ratting
+with parties of gentlemen or their gamekeepers on their private estates
+during the summer, supplying dog, ferrets, and nets, at moderate charges.&nbsp;
+Arrangements may be made by post.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">Ike Matthews</span> is also willing to go out
+rabbit-shooting with gentlemen during the season, and will supply and
+work ferrets at reasonable charges.&nbsp; He is also prepared to break
+dogs and puppies to ferreting and Ratting on reasonable terms.</p>
+<p>Any number of live Rats and rabbits supplied at a few days&rsquo;
+notice.</p>
+<p>All orders promptly attend to.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Undeniable
+References.<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+Yours truly,<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
+IKE MATTHEWS.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL
+RAT-CATCHER***</p>
+<pre>
+
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+</pre></body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Full Revelations of a Professional
+Rat-catcher, by Ike Matthews
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-catcher
+ After 25 Years' Experience
+
+
+Author: Ike Matthews
+
+
+
+Release Date: December 6, 2005 [eBook #17243]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL
+RAT-CATCHER***
+
+
+
+
+
+This eBook was prepared by Les Bowler.
+
+
+
+
+
+Full Revelations of a Professional Rat-Catcher,
+after 25 Years' Experience
+by Ike Matthews.
+
+
+[Title page image: title.jpg]
+
+
+
+
+Introduction.
+
+
+In placing before my readers in the following pages the results of my
+twenty-five years' experience of Rat-catching, Ferreting, etc., I may say
+that I have always done my best to accomplish every task that I have
+undertaken, and I have in consequence received excellent testimonials
+from many corporations, railway companies, and merchants. I have not
+only made it my study to discover the different and the best methods of
+catching Rats, but I have also taken great interest in watching their
+ways and habits, and I come to the conclusion that there is no sure way
+of completely exterminating the Rodents, especially in large towns. If I
+have in this work referred more particularly to Rat-catching in
+Manchester that is only because my experience, although extending over a
+much wider area, has been chiefly in that city, but the methods I
+describe are equally applicable to all large towns.
+
+Yours truly,
+
+IKE MATTHEWS.
+
+PROFESSIONAL RAT-CATCHER,
+ PENDLETON,
+ MANCHESTER.
+
+
+
+
+PART I. HOW TO CLEAR RATS FROM WAREHOUSES, OFFICES, STOREROOMS, ETC.
+
+
+In the first place my advice is--never poison Rats in any enclosed
+buildings whatever. Why? Simply because the Rats that you poison are
+Drain Rats, or what you call Black Rats, and you can depend upon it that
+the Rats that you poison will not get back into the drains, but die under
+the floor between the laths and plaster, and the consequence is that in a
+few days the stench that will arise will be most obnoxious. And there is
+nothing more injurious than the smell of a decomposed Rat.
+
+Having had a long experience in Manchester I am quite sure of this. As
+an instance, I remember a private house where I was engaged catching Rats
+under a floor with ferrets. I went as far as possible on my belly under
+the floor with two candles in my hands, and I saw the ferret kill a large
+bitch Rat, about six yards from me against a wall, where neither the dog
+nor myself could get at it. I finished the job and made out my bill for
+my services, but in about two or three weeks after they again sent for
+me, declaring they could not stay in the sitting-room on account of the
+smell that arose from beneath the flooring boards. They had in
+consequence to send for a joiner; and as I knew the exact spot where the
+Rat was killed I ordered him to take up the floor boards just where the
+dead Rat lay, and the stench that arose from the decomposed Rodent was
+bad in the extreme. I disinfected the place, and I was never sent for
+again. This was under a cold floor, and it is much worse where there is
+any heat.
+
+Now to deal with the different methods of catching Rats. The best way,
+in my opinion, is,
+
+
+
+TRAPPING THEM WITH STEEL SPRING TRAPS.
+
+
+Whenever you are trapping, never on any consideration put bait on the
+traps; always put traps in their runs, but you will find Rats are so
+cunning that in time, after a few have been caught, they will jump over
+the traps, and then you must try another way. A good one is the
+following, viz.:--Get a bag of fine, clean sawdust, and mix with it about
+one-sixth its weight of oatmeal. Obtain the sawdust fresh from under the
+saw, without bits of stick in, as these would be liable to get into the
+teeth of the trap and stop them from closing. Where you see the runs put
+a handful in say about 30 different places, every night, just dropping
+the sawdust and meal out of your hands in little heaps. That means 30
+different heaps. Do this for four nights, and you will see each morning
+that the sawdust is all spread about. Now for four more nights you must
+bury a set trap under every heap of sawdust. Thus you will have 30
+traps, on each of which there is a square centre plate; you must level
+the sawdust over the plate with a bit of stick, and set each trap as fine
+as you can on the catch spring, so that the weight of a mouse would set
+it off. They will play in the sawdust as usual, and you will have Rats
+in almost every trap. You will find that this plan will capture a great
+many of the Rodents. I have trapped as many as 114 in one night in this
+way.
+
+In time, however, the Rats will cease to go near sawdust. Then you must
+procure a bag of fine soot from any chimney sweep, and you will find that
+they will go at the soot just as keen as they did in the first instance
+at the sawdust. When they get tired of soot (which they will in time)
+you must procure some soft tissue paper and cut it fine, and use that in
+the same way as the sawdust and the soot. You can also use light chaff
+or hay seeds with the like result.
+
+I must not omit to tell my readers to always trap Rats in the night, and
+to go very quietly about it, for if you make much noise they will give
+over feeding. You must not go about with too big a light whilst
+trapping. You should stay at the building from dark until midnight, and
+every time a Rat is caught in the trap you should go with a bull's eye
+lamp, take it out of the trap or kill it, and then set the trap again, as
+you have the chance of another Rat in the same trap. From experience I
+can say that you need not stay in any place after 12 o'clock at night, as
+I think that the first feed is the best, and that the first three hours
+are worth all the other part of the night. You can go home at 12
+o'clock, and be sure to be in the place by 6 or 7 a.m., for many a Rat
+caught in the trap by the front leg will, if it gets time, eat off its
+leg and get away again, and they are very cunning to catch afterwards.
+
+
+
+NEVER HAVE YOUR TRAPS SET IN THE DAYTIME.
+
+
+Handle them as little as possible. Always catch as many Rats as you can
+in your buildings in January and February, as they begin to breed in
+March, and every bitch Rat means, on the average, eight more. Also get
+as much ferreting done as possible before breeding time, for a young Rat
+can get into the ends of the joisting under a floor, where a ferret
+cannot get near it, and the consequence is that a ferret is unable to
+cope with its task. The best thing I can advise for clearing young Rats
+is a good cat, one that must not be handled nor made a pet of, but
+allowed to live in almost a wild state. A good cat can do as much, in my
+opinion, in one night, when Rats are breeding, as two ferrets can do in a
+day, especially in a building where there are cavity walls, as it is
+impossible for a ferret to follow a Rat in such walls.
+
+This is all the information I am able to give on the trapping of Rats--a
+method I have proved by 25 years' experience to excel all others. Still
+another way of clearing the pests is as follows:--The majority of Rats
+are Black, or what we call Drain Rats; if they are in a building they
+will in most cases come from a water-closet. Sometimes you will see from
+the drain pipes in the water-closet, say, a six-inch pipe fitted into a
+nine-inch pipe, and the joint covered round with clay, through which the
+Rats eat and scratch and get into the building in great numbers in the
+night, but most of them return into the drains during the day. Now, if
+it is the breeding season (about eight months out of the twelve) they
+will do much damage to silk, cotton, leather, lace, and, in fact, all
+other light goods. And one would be surprised to see the quantity of
+cloth, paper, etc., they will procure for their nests whilst breeding.
+
+The way to get clear of these is to go in the day with two or three
+ferrets and leave the drain pipe open. Ferret them all back into the
+drain; don't put a net over the drain for fear you might miss one or two.
+If they got back into the building they would be hard to catch, as they
+would not face the net again. Then, after ferreting, make the drain
+good, and if there be an odd Rat or two left in the building you will get
+them in a few nights by baiting the trap.
+
+There is another way of catching the Brown Rat which breeds under the
+floor in large buildings where there are no drains. They are very
+awkward to catch. Always have a trap or two set, but do not set them
+where they feed; place them in their runs. But there are other methods
+for other Rat-infested places. For instance, take a restaurant, where
+they feed in the cooking kitchen; we will suppose they have eaten four
+holes through either floor or skirting boards. The best way to catch
+these--however many holes they have leading into the kitchen--is to block
+up (with tin or similar material) all the holes with the exception of
+one, and let them use that one for two nights. Then put a plateful of
+good food, such as oatmeal and oil of aniseed, as far from the hole as
+you can in the same kitchen; then run a small train of meal and aniseed
+from the hole to the plate. Next drive two six-inch nails in the wall,
+with a long piece of string tied to the nail heads. Put on these nails a
+brick or piece of board right above the hole 2 inches up the wall. Be
+sure the nails are quite loose in the wall over the hole, and leave in
+that position for two nights, so that the Rats will get used to it. On
+the night that you are going to catch them, before leaving the place
+carry the string from the nail heads to the door or window; let the door
+or window be closed within an inch, with the end of the string outside.
+After the place has been quiet for thirty minutes return to the door or
+window very quietly, and you will hear the Rats feeding. Pull the
+string, the loose nails come out of the wall and the brick or board drops
+over the hole. You can then go in, close the door, turn up the gas and
+catch or kill them at your leisure, as they cannot get back again.
+
+By this method I may mention that I have caught a great number of Rats,
+and it is quite possible to clear a place in this manner: that is, if
+they do not come out of the drains. I have caught upwards of 103 in six
+nights in this way. The best time to catch Rats in any building is
+always at night, and always about half-an-hour after the place has been
+closed, as Rats are generally more adventurous to come for their first
+feed. Always go about as quietly as possible.
+
+In some of the very old Manchester buildings that were built in the days
+before drain plans had to be submitted to the corporation, one finds
+under the cellar floors old-fashioned brick and flag drains (better known
+as "spit" drains), that were left in when the place was built. Once the
+Rats get in these disused drains all the professional Rat-catchers in
+England could not clear them without pulling the building down. The Rats
+have, by some means, got out of the main sewer, probably by the bursting
+of a sewer into one of these disused dry brick drains. It is then
+impossible to get underground to see where they have got into the dry
+drain, and the only thing that can be done in a case of this sort is to
+engage a professional Rat-catcher occasionally, and keep two or three
+good cats to keep the Rats down. These places as a rule are more plagued
+with them when it is very wet weather and there are floods running. This
+is the best time to catch them, as they are all under the floor of the
+building, and are very easy to catch in the night with the traps.
+
+As a rule the Black or Drain Rats feed only in the night, very rarely in
+the day, as they are of a dirty nature, and prefer being in the drains.
+In my opinion the Black Rat is more vicious than the Brown.
+
+There is another Rat I call the Red Rat, which is akin to the Brown Rat.
+You will always catch these at a tannery, or about kennels, where hounds
+are kept, and they generally feed on horseflesh or offal. Red Rats are
+the "gameist" Rats I know, for whatever kind of Rats are put into the
+store cage, these Red Rats kill them the first night they are left quiet.
+
+I may describe another mode of catching Rats. In any Rat-overrun
+warehouse, storeroom, or cellar, where there is a deal of rubbish such as
+packing cases, wrappers, waste paper, etc., throw a lot of food, say
+oatmeal or soaked bread, carelessly amongst the cases or rubbish and let
+the Rats have a full week's feeding at their leisure, and then if you
+know the holes round the floor wherefrom they come, go in some night as
+quick as possible, turn up the lights, run to the three or four holes,
+and block them up with pieces of rag, etc. Now as all the Rats will not
+run out of the packing cases or waste paper, but will hide amongst the
+same, this is the time to take a good terrier dog or two with you, and to
+have a bit of sport. Let one dog hunt among the cases, etc., and hold
+the other, for the Rats will soon make for the holes, but the rags
+preventing their escape you will catch and kill a great many by this
+means.
+
+It should be stated here that as Rats are very cunning, it takes a lot of
+study, dodging, and experience to be able to rid them entirely. When you
+are feeding Rats anywhere, never feed them with other than soft stuff,
+which you can squeeze through your fingers, for if you feed them with
+anything lumpy, they will carry pieces into their holes and eat at their
+leisure.
+
+
+
+FERRETING.
+
+
+Ferreting is a very good plan for destroying Rats in cottage houses,
+stables, hotels, etc., as it can be done in the day, but in buildings,
+say five or six storeys high you cannot ferret very well as you cannot
+tell where to set your nets. The only way to ferret a large building is
+to ferret one floor at once, and always start at the top storey first.
+The majority of floors are laths and plaster. This is what the Rat
+likes, especially the Brown Rat, and there are more nests found in these
+places than anywhere else. To ferret thoroughly in such places you will
+require to have a board up at each end of the floor: the two end boards
+that run crossways with the joist; then you must have a man to put the
+ferret in at one end, and ferret one joist at a time; have a net set at
+the other end. The best way at the catching end is to have a long sheet
+net about a yard wide, and the full length of the boards that are up, for
+sometimes under the boards the Rats can get out of one joist into
+another, and if you use the long net you can catch them whichever joist
+they bolt at.
+
+Now we will suppose you are ferreting a seven-storey building, which
+might occupy three or four days. If you have ferreted two stories the
+first day, during the night the Rats that have not been ferreted on the
+lower stories may get back again to the top storey.
+
+How to prevent this happening I will give you a plan of my own, which I
+don't think any Rat-catcher but myself has ever employed. The course of
+action--a rather expensive one I admit--is the following: While you have
+the boards up you must go to the druggist and get two shillings' worth of
+cayenne pepper, and put it into a pepper duster. Scatter the cayenne
+along the boards and joist where you have had the long sheet net, and
+also along the other end of the joist where you put the ferrets in, and
+you will find that under no consideration will Rats face the cayenne
+pepper. Cayenne is alright for any dry place and will last a long time,
+but it will not do in any water closets or any damp places, as dampness
+takes all the nature out of the cayenne.
+
+After ferreting in any kind of building, always go carefully round the
+outside, and see that there are no broken air grids, or broken cellar
+windows, as these are likely ways that the Rats get into the building at
+first. When ferreting always be careful how you set your nets, and be
+extremely quick on the Rats when they bolt, for sometimes if they get
+back they will face the ferret before they will bolt again; then the
+ferrets kill them under the floors, and this as in the case of poisoning
+them is liable to cause an abominable smell, more especially where heat
+is near.
+
+In the whole of my experience of Rat-catching, which is a lengthy one, I
+never gave a guarantee to clear a place completely, in Manchester or any
+other town where so many large buildings are so close together. And let
+me show the reason for this. Take Cannon Street, Manchester, as an
+illustration. Here are six or eight different firms in one block of
+buildings. Now, suppose four of these firms are suffering from the
+damage the Rats are doing. Well, one or two of these firms may go to the
+expense of having the Rats cleared away. But between the two buildings
+there may be a hardware business or ironmonger's shop, where Rats cannot
+do any harm to their goods. The owners of these shops will not go to the
+expense of having Rats caught, nor will they let us go into their shops
+at midnight; therefore the result is the Rat-catcher in his trapping and
+ferreting is limited to these two places, and all he can do is to catch
+some and drive the rest into the hardware shop. When under the floors in
+such places one finds there has been so many alterations made at
+different times that one joist may be a foot or six inches below the
+other, and when the Rats are completely driven out of these places it
+would require joiners and bricksetters to work for weeks under the floors
+to stop the Rats returning. And most firms will not go to this expense.
+I only give my readers this as an illustration of what has often happened
+with me, and to show why I never guarantee to clear Rats completely in
+large towns. If they are in a private house, stable, greenhouse, or any
+block of houses, of say five or six, I might then, after looking through,
+give a guarantee to clear them completely.
+
+These are the fullest details I can give you, and if you will put any of
+the ways I have mentioned into practice you will find that they are all
+successful, especially the covering of traps. I can give you just one
+more instance in Manchester, where I was engaged. The workpeople had
+been tormenting the Rats with traps, not knowing how to set them. They
+sent for me, and on my looking round the place I knew there was a lot of
+Rats. I submitted my price to do the job, and when I went down one night
+with 40 traps, dog, and two ferrets I thought I should catch 20 or 30
+Rats, but I found that they had plagued them so much with their attempted
+trapping that I only caught three in the whole night. This place
+belonged to a limited company, and when I went before the committee the
+next morning they were not satisfied. I told them that their own
+workpeople had tormented the Rats so much with traps that the Rats would
+not go near one. I then told the committee that I would still stick to
+my terms, but I would leave the job over for a fortnight. Now during
+that fortnight I went down a good many times, and laid the sawdust as I
+have already described, and thus got the Rats used to it. The first
+night that I went catching I took with me 33 traps. I had them all set
+by 8-30 p.m., and by 12-30 a.m. I had trapped 45 Rats; the next night 31
+Rats; and before I completed the job, with the trapping and the other
+ways that I have mentioned, I caught 183 Rats! This I give merely as an
+illustration to show the necessity of engaging an experienced man to
+catch Rats--that is, if you want them caught. And to confirm the
+statements above, I shall be most happy to supply privately the name and
+place of the firm, and also to give a personal interview if necessary.
+
+And now a word or two respecting the different ways in which Rat-catchers
+are treated. Many people think that a Rat-catcher is favoured if they
+give him permission to catch Rats on their farms or round the banks of
+their corn or wheat fields. Well, on some occasions I grant this may be
+a favour, for I have seen when I have had an order in hand for about 10
+dozen Rats, and have had only a day or two in which to get them. Such
+are the only times and circumstances when a Rat-catcher gives his
+services gratis, and simply because he wants the live Rats. Most farmers
+will send you word when they are threshing their corn, and then the value
+of the Rats are worth the day's work to the Rat-catcher.
+
+This is all right as far as it goes, but when one comes to consider the
+yearly expenses of the Rat-catcher it will be found that they are very
+heavy. Now, first of all it will cost, at the least, 5 pounds annually
+for the wear and tear of traps alone, then there is the wear and tear of
+nets; two dog licences; always three or four ferrets to keep (and ferrets
+are often lost down drains or killed by Rats); also sundry other
+expenses, such as store cages, etc. Then, again, the Rat-catcher always
+has to pay a man to help him.
+
+I don't call Rat-catching a trade only: I maintain that it is a
+profession, and one that requires much learning and courage. I have
+found this out when I have been under a warehouse floor, where a lot of
+Rats were in the traps, and I could not get one man out of 50 to come
+under the floor and hold the candle for me, not to mention helping me to
+take the live Rats out of the traps. I just relate this because at some
+places where we go and where we catch perhaps 30 Rats, the first thing
+they say when the bill is presented is "Why, you have got 15s. worth of
+live Rats!" They don't think of the damage 30 Rats can do to fancy
+goods, nor do they consider the evil smells that men have to tolerate
+under the floors or from the bad drains.
+
+I could relate many interesting anecdotes of what I have seen and heard
+about Rats, but I fear its perusal might take up too much of my readers'
+time. There is, however, one thing I will mention. I dare say you have
+heard of Rats running about in "swarms" in the night. Do not believe it.
+In my whole experience I have never been so fortunate as to meet a
+"swarm" of these, when I have had an empty cage on my back, and an order
+for 12 dozen live Rats at 5s. per dozen. When trapping at farms on a
+moonlight night I have seen a train of Rats almost in single file going
+from a barn to a pit or brook to drink, and then I have simply run a long
+net all along the barn very quickly, sent my dog round the pit and caught
+all the Rats in the net when they ran back to get in the barn. For in
+these places you must be as cunning as the Rats to catch them. The
+quickest way for a farmer to get rid of Rats is to run a long trail of
+good oatmeal outside his barn doors, and shoot them on a moonlight night.
+I have seen 11 killed at a shot in this way. They will stay eating the
+oatmeal because they cannot carry it away. At farms or out-houses you
+might poison Rats round a pit or along brook sides where they go to
+drink, although I don't believe in poisoning, as one never knows where it
+ends--the Rats being likely to carry the poisoned food about, and then
+dogs, hens, pigs, pigeons, etc., may pick it up.
+
+There may be a few more ways of catching Rats than I have enumerated, but
+I think I have given the best ways in detail. Some people think that to
+use
+
+
+
+THE MONGOOSE
+
+
+is very good, but I think that the mongoose is no better than a good fox
+terrier dog or a good cat, the only advantage in the mongoose being that
+all the Rats it kills it will bring back dead to its habitation, and that
+stops the dead Rats from smelling under the floors. I think that the
+mongoose is not half so sly or sharp as a good cat, and a mongoose,
+moreover, has to be taught how to kill a Rat (just the same as a dog). I
+am fortunate in having actually seen a mongoose and a Rat put alive in a
+tub together, and the mongoose would not even look at the Rat. And I
+maintain that the mongoose cannot compare with the ferret anytime, for
+the simple reason that a small ferret can get anywhere that a Rat can,
+whilst the mongoose must wait until the Rat comes out to feed. For
+instance, if a board of a floor be left up for a mongoose to get under
+the floor, it can only get into one of the joists; but a ferret can
+follow a Rat wherever it goes. Then again, the Rats can smell a mongoose
+even more strongly than they can smell a cat. So these facts prevent my
+recommending a mongoose on any account. I have also heard of people
+experimenting with different sorts of
+
+
+
+DRUGS AND CHEMICALS
+
+
+for enticing Rats out of their holes. I hope none of my readers will be
+attracted with this device. I hold that there is nothing that will tempt
+a Rat from its hole like hunger. The nearest approach that I have found
+to entice the Rodent out of its hole is oil of aniseed or oil of rhodium,
+but the latter is expensive. I can rely best on oil of aniseed, because
+I have often successfully tried it in experiment upon the plate of a set
+trap. I have placed only three or four drops of oil of aniseed upon the
+plate of a set trap without bait, and often the trap has closed and
+trapped the Rat by the nose; so that it will be seen that the Rat must
+have been licking the plate, or it could not be caught in that manner. I
+have also frequently noticed when I have set, say, 20 traps covered with
+meal and sawdust mixed, that if I have put only two drops of oil of
+aniseed on half the traps I should find next morning on looking at the
+traps that most Rats are in those in which I had placed the aniseed. I
+think that oil of rhodium and oil of aniseed are very good to drop on the
+traps after setting, or to mix with the stuff with which the traps are
+covered.
+
+There is also another way of bolting Rats. Sometimes when the ferret is
+put under a boarded floor, all the Rats will run together and pack
+themselves in a heap at the end of a joist. When the Rats pack
+themselves on each other thus, the ferret on reaching them will tackle
+only one at a time. You can always tell when this happens by the ferret
+working a long time and bolting no Rats. Now, immediately you notice
+this, put your mouth near the hole where you have put the ferrets in, and
+make a squealing noise with your mouth to imitate a squealing Rat. This
+causes the heap of Rats at the end of the joist to disperse through fear,
+and when they get running about they will bolt into the net. Many times
+I have not had a bolt for half-an-hour and when I have squealed at the
+hole I have had four or five Rats in the nets at once.
+
+These are some of the methods of clearing Rats from various places, and
+from experience I think they excel all others.
+
+
+
+
+PART II. HOW TO KEEP AND WORK FERRETS.
+
+
+The first necessity in ferret-keeping is that they shall be kept in
+hutches or "cotes," as they are commonly called. Care must always be
+taken to have their places well swilled with carbolic water, and then
+allowed to thoroughly dry before whitewashing the inside, which is also
+essential to keep them healthy. This should be done at least four times
+a year. Always have your hutches leaning from the wall, so that wet or
+refuse will not lodge, for when the bottom of a hutch is always wet it is
+liable to give the ferrets a disease called foot rot, which is very
+frequent where ferrets are neglected. Always keep the feeding part of
+the hutch well covered with sawdust.
+
+In feeding ferrets for the purpose of Rat-catching, never do so before
+going out with them; I think it is quite sufficient to feed them every 24
+hours. If you feed them oftener they are liable to get too fat, and also
+lazy and unwilling to work as they should. The best food you can give
+them is bread and milk, and occasionally a little raw liver. Mix the
+bread and milk with a little hot water, stir well with a spoon or squeeze
+through your fingers, so that the ferrets will have to eat it where you
+feed them; if not they will carry the large pieces of bread that are wet
+into the corners of the sleeping place, which would soon cause that part
+of the hutch to smell very sour and become injurious to the health of the
+ferret, especially where four or five are kept together, as they are of a
+very perspiring nature. Always give them plenty of room to run about
+when you can; if you don't they are likely to take cramp.
+
+Ferrets are usually subject to distemper. The first symptom is the
+ferret's neglect of its food. When you see this you will observe a
+little matter at the corner of the eyes, and the ferret will have a
+slight running at the nostrils. Immediately you see these symptoms
+separate that ferret from the others, as this is, I think, the worst
+disease one has to contend with.
+
+In the whole of my ferret-keeping experience I have found distemper, if
+caught in time, can be cured; but if it gets too far I know of no cure
+for it. I have known a gamekeeper to have dogs with the distemper, and
+he has not touched his ferrets or handled them at all during the time his
+dogs were bad, yet a week afterwards his ferrets caught the disease. He
+tried all the remedies he knew of, but in 14 days 12 hitherto good,
+strong, healthy ferrets died: all he had. This will show at once that
+the disease is very contagious. The moment you see signs of distemper
+coming on feed the ferret as little as possible. Give it as little to
+eat as will just keep life in it, for in feeding the ferret you also feed
+the disease. When you have kept the food from it is the time to start
+curing if possible. Now, from experience the first thing I recommend is
+to sweat the disease out of it, and I find the best way to do this is as
+follows:--Get an old bucket with a few one-inch holes bored in the
+bottom, and almost fill it with good new straw horse-droppings; put a
+little hay on the top of the droppings, and then put the ferret on the
+hay. Place or hang the bucket over a boiler or on the mantelpiece, and
+let the kettle steam under the bucket, say for 30 minutes, and you will
+find the steam and the ammonia from the droppings will together sweat the
+disease out of the ferret; then you can start feeding it again. Feed it
+with something substantial, such as the jelly from stewed cowheels; give
+them the jelly only, not the meat; and you will have a good result. Also
+give them a teaspoonful of cream. This is the one and only cure for
+distemper.
+
+Another disease in ferrets, especially young ones, is what I call "red
+mange." This starts always under the belly, and you will find that the
+skin becomes very red and speckled. This is easily remedied by the
+simple process of washing in lukewarm water and rubbing with sweet oil
+and black sulphur. The same mixture will answer for "foot rot" if rubbed
+well into the paws. The general cause of this latter disease is neglect
+of the ferrets and the hutches not being cleaned out regularly.
+
+I think the best bedding for ferrets is good oat straw, fresh every
+fortnight. Throw the straw in carelessly, and the ferrets will make
+their own beds. When breeding ferrets, never go near them more than you
+can help, as they are of a wild nature and liable to destroy their young.
+When you know a Jill or bitch ferret has young, give her a little extra
+good food, but don't interfere with the young ones on any account, and if
+you want to give her a little extra bedding put the straw in the same
+place as the food, and she will take it into the sleeping place herself.
+It is advisable not to touch the young ones for five weeks, or better
+still leave them until they come out to feed themselves; and when running
+about, if there be a good number, say nine or ten, in the lot, it is a
+good plan to remove them into a larger place for sleeping, as young
+ferrets are very liable to catch the red mange, which arises from too
+many being together and sweating very much.
+
+
+
+WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RAT-CATCHING
+
+
+always work them unmuzzled. Make as little noise as possible, as Rats
+are very bad to bolt sometimes. Never grab at the ferret as it leaves
+the hole, nor tempt it out of the hole with a dead Rat. The best way is
+to let the ferret come out of its own choice, and then pick it up very
+quietly, for if you grab at it, it is likely to become what we call a
+"stopper;" and never on any account force a ferret to go into a hole.
+
+
+
+WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR RABBIT-SHOOTING
+
+
+always muzzle them. The old-fashioned style of muzzle is, I think, the
+best, that is, made with string. I don't approve of wire muzzles, as
+they are liable to catch against tree roots and bits of sharp stones, and
+from experience I find the ferret works much better with the string
+muzzle.
+
+There is one way of working ferrets when rabbit-shooting which, if
+followed, I think would lead to a better day's shooting. You will often
+see the ferrets stick up with the rabbits. Now, in most cases the
+gamekeeper or his man working the ferrets will often cut open a dead
+rabbit and put the paunch to the burrow. I quite agree as to the
+desirability of this to get the ferrets out, but I say that the man using
+the ferrets ought never to touch the paunch, as the ferrets will not work
+half so well after he has the smell of the paunch on his hands.
+
+Another bad plan is that of throwing a dead rabbit into the burrow so
+that the ferret will follow it out. The best plan is to let the ferret
+get clear of the hole, and then pick it up quietly. If you will break
+your ferrets in in this manner you will never have any trouble with them
+afterwards.
+
+When ferrets are conveyed about for the purpose of rabbiting, boxes are
+much better to use than bags, as the ferrets then get a better chance of
+resting. If bags be used you disturb the ferrets' rest and position each
+time you remove one. Take care to observe this and it will result in a
+good day's sport.
+
+Always take your ferrets home as quickly as possible after a day's work.
+
+Ferrets kept only for rabbit-shooting should always be fed as soon as the
+day's work is over, but they must not have more food till the same time
+the following day. If fed in this way regularly you will find that they
+will work very well. It is also advisable to let them drink at a stream
+when they have worked about three hours.
+
+When ferrets have been fast in a rabbit burrow, their paws may be full of
+down with scratching at the rabbits. Always remove this before placing
+them to another burrow. Each time you handle the ferret see that the
+muzzle is alright, and in muzzling with string great care should be taken
+to remove the long hair on the snout from under the string; otherwise the
+ferret may experience a tickling sensation, and not work so well as it
+should; see also that the string is tied tightly around the ferret's
+neck; if not it can easily pull off the muzzle with its paws.
+
+Whenever a ferret is severely bitten by a Rat the best course to take
+immediately you get it home is to bathe the wound in clean luke-warm
+water. See that all the dirt is removed, and then apply a few drops of
+sweet oil to the wound. Repeat this every four hours, until the wound is
+healed, but until then do not work the ferret lest more dirt gets into
+the wound. My experience proves this to be the best way to cure a ferret
+when it has received a severe Rat-bite.
+
+It is also a good plan occasionally (say once a fortnight) to skin a nice
+young Rat and give it to the ferret.
+
+
+
+SUITABLE DOGS.
+
+
+And now a word or two as to what is a good dog for waterside hunting, or
+working with the ferrets. I recommend a cross-bred dog, but I find that
+it is always better to have the pointer breed in it, whatever other breed
+you get, because the pointer always has the nose or scent. Pointer and
+Airedale would be very good, or pointer and Irish terrier. I have often
+noticed that pure-bred dogs are not much good for hunting in buildings or
+rivers. I have frequently seen a cross-bred dog stand at one side of the
+river, and if the wind has been in his favour he has winded his nose
+across the river, and I have sent him over and he has turned a Rat out,
+bolted it into the water, and killed it.
+
+The best precaution to take in breaking a dog to Rat-catching and
+waterside hunting (especially if it be a puppy) is to never allow anybody
+but yourself to have anything to do with it, it being the worst thing
+possible to let a working dog have too many masters. Break it in to the
+ferrets first, and then it is a good plan to go up the river banks, with
+either a dead Rat or rabbit skin, letting the dog play with it for a
+while, and then burying it about 18 inches in the river bank; or you may
+pull up a clod and put it under, only you must not let the dog see where
+you place it. Then take the dog with you near to where the rat or skin
+is buried, and you will soon see that the dog knows its work. Do this a
+few times, and you will see that once the dog finds the dead Rat or the
+skin it will never forget. The younger the dog the better, the right age
+to break a puppy this way being about four or five months. Break it in
+for taking to the water at the same time. If you want a good working dog
+always keep it on the chain when at home, and feed it at the same time as
+the ferrets, but do not over-feed it; also give it one dose of castor oil
+or syrup of buckthorn every 14 days. I recommend this because you never
+know the nasty poisonous stuff that the dog gets on its stomach from the
+dirty brook and river sides.
+
+Let me add that all I have written about ferrets and dogs are not given
+merely from hearsay, but are the facts derived from study and experience
+during 25 years of dog and ferret-keeping.
+
+
+
+
+PART III. THE HABITS OF RATS.
+
+
+Rats breed very quickly. This I have often proved by visiting a given
+haunt for many years together. I remember an instance in point one June,
+when out with dog and ferrets. The dog made a set under the root of a
+tree. I put the ferret in and it bolted eight young Rats, nearly half
+grown, still suckling the bitch Rat. When the old Rat bolted my dog
+killed it, and whilst the dog was shaking it I found she was very heavy
+in young again. This, therefore, will prove how quickly Rats breed.
+
+Another result of my observation may be of interest to my readers. After
+removing a lot of old rubbish when ratting I came upon a nest of just-
+born Rats, and, in curiosity, I cut the tails off the lot, and then put
+the young Rodents back, leaving the nest undisturbed. When I returned
+next day, I found the old Rat had carried all her young away, and, later,
+I found the same tailless lot in another part of the building, and, after
+disturbing them again, I found the following day that the bitch Rat had
+killed every one by eating off their heads. This destruction of the
+offspring I have witnessed on more than one occasion. The old bitch Rat
+has always killed them in the same way by eating off their heads.
+
+I must not forget to tell you of the young Rat's dread of the ferrets. I
+have often seen when the ferrets have been put in the hole the young Rats
+(not many days old and their eyes yet unopened) creep out of the hole.
+This is a proof that the smell of the ferrets has a tendency to bolt
+Rats, either young or old.
+
+Old Rats are very bold whilst suckling their young. I have seen them
+very venturesome to get to water, and more eager for water than for food.
+I have often traced their runs a long way for water, and noticed that
+when crossing a field to get to a pit or river they never walk, but are
+always on the run; and in the summer, when they reach the pit, they not
+only drink, but often swim about. I have frequently watched them
+swimming on a moonlight night, but they generally go back to the
+buildings in the early morning, especially in the winter months.
+
+Another habit I have often noticed. Take a farm, or any place where
+there are many Rats, and it will be always found that when a Rat gets
+very old it becomes very greyish in colour and rather scabbed, and its
+hair comes off, mostly on the back. The healthy Rats will then drive the
+old Rat away, and these scabby old Rats may be caught by themselves in
+other parts of the buildings; and, further, I often notice that if the
+ferrets are bitten with these old Rats, they "take bad ways." I never
+put such Rats with the others nor allow my dog to kill them. I would
+advise any gentleman having a dog he values never to let it touch one of
+these old scabby Rats, as it may prove injurious to the health of the
+dog.
+
+It is surprising how far Rats will travel in the night. I have traced
+their tracks from a stackyard over two or three fields to a farm to get
+to their food. And you will always find that they have one time for
+feeding, which is as soon as it is dusk, the young Rats being the most
+venturesome for their food, always coming out first.
+
+Rats, especially stackyard ones, are of a very clean nature. You will
+find that after they have had their first feed they diligently wash
+themselves. These Rats feed on nothing but good stuff, such as wheat,
+corn, and meal; and from experience I find that if a man is bitten on the
+hand by one of these Brown or Stack Rats it never "takes bad ways," but,
+if bitten by a dirty Drain Rat, then whether he cauterises or bathes the
+wound is no matter, it is sure to "take bad ways." I think the reason of
+this is because the Drain Rat, when it cannot get anything else to eat,
+exists on the worms and slugs, and this, I think, causes the teeth to
+become more venomous. When bitten in this way blood poisoning is very
+likely to ensue. Indeed, you must understand that the teeth of a full-
+grown Rat are quite half-an-inch long, and the jaw is very strong, so
+that if you are bitten on the finger it is almost sure to penetrate to
+the bone. I have known a good many cases of blood poisoning through Rat-
+bites.
+
+The damage Rats can do to property, commodities, etc., is almost
+incredible. I have had so many examples of this that I scarcely know
+which to submit as illustration. I think the worst case I have seen was
+where they gnawed a hole half way through a 2-1/4 inch lead pipe, and
+often I have known them to bite through a one-inch lead pipe. The worst
+damage is done when they get under the flag floors of cottage houses out
+of the drains. They scratch the soil from beneath the flags, which then
+sink, and the consequent stench from the drains is abominable,
+jeopardising the health of the tenants. I have seen a great many of
+these cases in the poorer parts of Manchester. The damage the Rats will
+do in the silk and similar trades, to the goods of merchants, or in the
+grocery business, is enormous, and not so much by reason of what they
+actually eat as by what they carry away, which is often ten times as much
+as they eat. I have often proved this when ferreting at a wholesale
+grocery warehouse. When we have taken up the boards between the laths
+and plaster we have found the ceiling almost full of lump sugar, nuts,
+candles, etc., which have been there for years, hoarded by the Rats. Now,
+this all means heavy loss, and that is why I say that any business man so
+suffering ought to engage the services of a professional Rat-catcher once
+a year in order to keep the Rats down, and catch as many as possible
+before they begin breeding.
+
+Another Rat habit may be noticed where the Rodents are accustomed to have
+their holes and runs among flags and stones. If they find any soft wood
+such as pine or white deal, they will nibble at it until it is eaten
+through. I have often known them to eat right through the legs of tables
+in the middle of cooking kitchens. This, I think, they do simply to keep
+their teeth clean and in order; I have known half-grown Rats to do the
+same.
+
+Rats can exist a long time on herbage, if they can get nothing more
+palatable. It is a very common thing to find Rats in the rabbit burrows
+when ferreting; in fact, I have seen, not once, but many times, Rats,
+rabbits, and weasels all bolt from the same burrow. I have also
+unearthed a Rat and a rabbit together out of one single burrow.
+
+Now as to keeping Rats in store cages at home. Look well after them, and
+I think it is possible to keep them alive for quite a year; but if you
+keep, say, 20 in one store cage and neglect their feeding,, you will find
+that when hungry in the night they will kill the weakest of their number
+and eat it, sometimes even eating two or three in one night, leaving the
+skin as clean as if a man had skinned them. It is always the best plan
+to put the Rats in different cages, according to their sizes. The young
+ones together, the old ones together, and the middle-aged ones together,
+as they keep themselves much cleaner when thus divided, and do not fight
+so much as they would otherwise. They must also be kept in a warm place;
+if not, they soon have cramp. Also keep them in a dark place and see
+that they have plenty of water; sprinkle them now and then with it so
+that they will wash themselves. It is astonishing what a hungry Rat will
+do. I have seen them in the summer at dusk run at an old hen with her
+chickens under her, and almost as quick as I tell it, the Rat has
+snatched a live chicken and run with it under a pigsty floor.
+
+I have known them to take half-grown young ducks from the water side. I
+remember once ferreting round a pit, near a barn, and when I put my
+ferret in the hole, it pulled out two dead chickens and three
+middle-sized dead ducks, and behind them, not more than a yard deep in
+the pit bank, was an old Rat. I have also known them to get into the
+coops where a gamekeeper was rearing his pheasants, and to kill nine
+young ones in a single night all from under the same hen.
+
+Rats are also fond of eggs. I have read of many ways in which Rats take
+eggs, but in my quarter-of-a-century's experience of Ratting I never saw
+Rats take eggs save in one way, and that is, dragging or rolling them
+along the floor with their front paws, until they get them to the mouth
+of the hole. I remember one place where I was ferreting. There was an
+old cellar, the door of which at the top of the steps had to my knowledge
+been nailed up two or three years. Out of the hen house the Rats had
+eaten a hole at each side of the cellar door at the bottom. One day we
+burst open the door, went into the cellar (where it was impossible for a
+hen to get whilst the door was closed) and beneath the bottom step we
+caught two Rats. On lifting the flag at the bottom of the steps, we
+found 15 whole eggs, some good and some bad, all of which I am quite
+satisfied the Rats had carried down those nine stone steps! How they had
+done so I cannot explain, but content myself with stating only the plain
+facts of my own personal observation.
+
+Rats are also very cunning in the water, say a pit or a river. Now, a
+Rat can exist in water for at most about seven minutes, and you will find
+when a dog is swimming after a Rat that the Rat is watching the dog all
+the time, for as soon as the dog gets within a yard of the Rat the latter
+will dive under water and come to the surface again about 15 yards away.
+When the dog has tired the Rat out with swimming, you will very often see
+the Rat dive again and come up very quietly and just put its nose out of
+the water, or rest its head on a floating leaf. It is so cunning that it
+will remain still there, and if the leaf or reed gives way it will come
+up at the water side and just thrust out its nose to breathe. By this
+means the dog loses full scent of the Rat.
+
+I have also noticed how useful are the Rat's front paws and tail. I have
+seen a Rat on the top of a swill tub at a pigsty, when the swill has been
+about ten inches from the top of the tub. The Rat was too cunning to
+jump down on the wet swill and drown, but I saw it reach as far down the
+inside of the tub as possible with its front paws and scrape the grease
+from around the sides! I have also seen the same Rat, when unable to
+scrape any further down the tub sides, turn round, clutch the top of the
+tub with its front paws, dip its tail into the swill, and then gain the
+top of the tub and commence licking its tail.
+
+I have also tried an experiment with the same tub, which consisted of
+covering the top of the wet swill with bran, which floated on the
+surface, and placing a bit of lumpy swill in the middle of the bran, in
+the hope that the Rat would jump on the bran in the expectation of
+getting at the swill in the middle. However, it did not do so, no doubt
+instinctively guided against the danger.
+
+I have also watched Rats run round a set wire or cage trap for a full
+hour. I have seen them go half way in and out again, look at the bait
+and never touch it, but go away and never return to the same trap that
+night. These examples show the cunning instinct of Rats.
+
+There is, however, one power that the Rat is not favoured with, and I am
+afraid if they were they would be a greater pest. It is the ability of
+high jumping. A Rat cannot, I think, jump higher than three feet six
+inches, and will have to be very hungry before doing that to obtain food.
+
+Many people may not know how fierce Rats are when fighting. Let me
+instance. I have often taken, one in each hand, two good Rats from my
+cage before a hundred spectators and set the Rats at each other on the
+top of a table. To see them fight would be surprising. They will fight
+like two bulldogs. When they have got a grip of each other with their
+teeth I have taken away my hands, and they have stuck and shook one
+another for at least half-a-minute, although you must understand that the
+moment they are loose of one another they are off if you don't catch them
+again.
+
+There are several other cunning ways of Rats which I can scarcely
+explain. One must be amongst them regularly to know their wonderful ways
+and habits. Yet another little incident, in conclusion, may be of
+interest. I once called at a farm where they had been threshing a wheat
+stack. A Rat-catcher had been there but without a dog, and when I
+arrived two hours afterwards my dog made a set, and commenced scratching
+amongst the old chaff left at the bottom of the stack, and to the
+astonishment of myself and the farmer I pulled out of the hole where the
+dog was scratching 73 live Rats! The other Rat-catcher, who had been at
+the threshing all day, had caught only 14 Rats. This will serve to show
+that a Rat-catcher must not be without a good dog.
+
+And now, respecting the ways and habits of Rats I think I have given my
+readers interesting and varied illustrations of what I have seen and
+experienced during my time.
+
+
+
+
+PART IV. LIFE OF THE RAT-CATCHER.
+
+
+This work will not be complete if I do not deal with the Rat-catcher's
+life. The profession is a peculiar and exciting one, but all right if
+pursued in the right way. Although the calling takes one into dirty and
+obnoxious places, there is no reason why the Rat-catcher should not
+always appear respectable. The Rat-catcher has many temptations to
+dishonest conducts, for instance, when Rat-catching on a farm or private
+estate where there are numerous rabbits and game. It looks rather hard
+lines for the Rat-catcher to come off a farm with his cage full of Rats
+and see rabbits running about whilst he has all the requisites in his
+possession for catching them; and yet he must not touch one, but go home
+and merely reflect on what a good Sunday's dinner he is leaving behind.
+This I have experienced many a time, but I have always found even from
+the business view-point that the old advice still remains true, "Honesty
+is the best policy." Leaving the rabbits to themselves has always turned
+out to be the best, for to take a rabbit worth a shilling, and get caught
+in the act, means that you can never go on the same estate again. And
+from that same estate you might have got 500 Rats in a year, worth four
+shillings a dozen.
+
+I must also put in a good word here for the gamekeepers. My opinion is
+that if you go on a keeper's ground and do what is right, you will be
+able to go again, for in the whole of my experience never having carried
+any nets but Rat nets when on private estates, I have the consolation of
+knowing that I should always be welcome on going again to such estates.
+
+Of course there are inconveniences that the Rat-catcher has to put up
+with. Whatever engagements he takes in a town, the only time he can
+catch Rats with a good result is in the night. On one occasion, when
+going round with my bull's-eye lamp to examine the traps, I was taken for
+a burglar by the policeman on the beat, and he doubted me so much that he
+would not release me until I had shown him my cage with Rats in and my
+traps set all over the place. Then he took almost as much interest in
+the catching of Rats as myself, and also brought in the other policemen
+who were outside waiting for me to attempt an escape. Ever after that,
+when I had a night's engagement in any town, I always went to the police
+station to tell the man on that beat where I was.
+
+It behoves the Rat-catcher to be always attentive to his customers,
+those, I mean, who want live Rats wherewith to try their dogs. Amongst
+mine I have the honour to include clients of highest rank and position,
+barristers, magistrates, solicitors and a host of sporting gentry. If
+the Rat-catcher's efforts commend themselves to such gentlemen, and he
+always maintains a respectable appearance, he will obtain some very nice
+outings in the country. Oft-times a party of gentlemen have sent for me
+in the summer, having arranged with me to bring four or five ferrets and
+Ratting appliances, and we have gone 50 miles up the country. They would
+bring their terrier dogs, and we would hunt all along the brooks and
+rivers, and round the corn and wheat fields, putting the Rats we caught
+into the cage, and after lunch, taking the Rats to a meadow and coursing
+them with their dogs, which I think it real good sport. We would put up
+at the best hotels and repeat the procedure next day, very often taking a
+drag or coach, and driving ten or a dozen miles farther up the country.
+
+I can assure my readers that the Rat-catcher is well remunerated for the
+trouble he undertakes in these cases, and moreover this is the class of
+people he requires to fraternise with. There is always a plentiful
+supply of "refreshments" on these outings, and I would therefore advise
+the Rat-catcher not to indulge too freely.
+
+The foregoing is, of course, a brief sketch of the pleasantest part of a
+Rat-catcher's life, and to complete the picture I may as well describe
+some of the other features, and the way he has to rough it sometimes.
+Well, Rat-catchers are generally called upon to supply Rats for the Rat
+coursings usually held at beerhouses, etc., on Saturday afternoons, which
+one often sees advertised. Now, if he binds himself to supply a coursing
+at a certain date, the bills announcing the event are printed and posted,
+all of which means expense. Then you are bound to secure the live Rats,
+whatever be the weather. In doing this I always followed the threshing
+machine to the bays and stacks. (Anyone that catches Rats regularly can
+tell by looking at the bays or stacks whether there are many Rats in or
+not.) I remember many times when the men have started threshing a bay of
+wheat in which were a great many Rats, and by dark they have threshed
+only half of the bay. At such times the Rat-catcher must not leave the
+remaining half, no, not for half-an-hour throughout the whole night, for
+if he does the Rats will run out. To stop the Rats from leaving, the Rat-
+catcher has to lie on the top of the bay or go about every thirty minutes
+and beat the bottom with sticks until daylight, in order to keep the Rats
+in. Then, after the machine re-starts, and the bottom of the bay is
+reached, the Rat-catcher will be well paid for his trouble, for he may
+get, say, 150 good Rats for the coursing, at six shillings per dozen. The
+reason I call them good coursing Rats is because they have not been
+handled, and that enables them to run well.
+
+Now, when you go to these coursings (which are mostly in the colliery
+districts) you will find about 60 dogs entered. It is the Rat-catcher's
+business to measure and handicap the dogs, and a very unpleasant job it
+is. He has also to be the referee at these coursings, and if it is a
+"near thing" with two dogs running at one rat, and you decide to award
+the victory to a given one, then the owner of the other dog will probably
+accuse you of wrong-doing and favouritism. Then is the time the
+Rat-catcher has to be prepared to pull off his coat and start fighting
+before, perhaps, 500 spectators. This has often occurred with me. This,
+I can assure my readers, is what I call "roughing it."
+
+Of course, what I have just related occurred a few years ago, but when
+the Muzzling Order came into force, the authorities practically stopped
+Rat coursing, for they would not let a dog run at a Rat unless the dog
+was muzzled. This was about the worst thing that the authorities could
+do for Manchester and district, for at that time I was supplying for
+coursings about 100 Rats per week, and at the same time sending 50 Rats a
+week into Yorkshire, and all the Rats I supplied were caught within 15
+miles of Manchester. This in my opinion, speaks very bad of the Muzzling
+Order, which I think is nothing but a farce, for at the very time I was
+going ratting, dogs were muzzled in some parts of the country but not in
+others. My opinion of dog muzzling is, muzzle all or muzzle none.
+
+You will see by what I have said respecting these coursings, etc., that
+the Rat-catcher has plenty of work to supply so many live rats, and he
+has also to mix with company high and low. He also sometimes experiences
+difficulties in travelling on the railway. I have often entered an empty
+third-class carriage, sent my dog under the seat, and put the Rat cage
+there also. The carriage would fill with passengers, and upon reaching
+my destination I would take from under the seat my cage full of live
+Rats, to the amusement of some and the disgust of others.
+
+I have also entered a railway carriage with my cage of rats when there
+were passengers in, one or two of whom would generally object to live
+Rats being in the same compartment, and on enquiring of the railway
+officials, I have found that any one travelling with live Rats is
+expected to put them in the guard's van.
+
+I have also had a few good customers in my business, one or two in
+particular. Gentlemen have often sent me post-cards instructing me to
+take six or twelve Rats to their residences. I would run them out on the
+lawn in front of the house with their dogs, and generally I have received
+good remuneration for my trouble. These are the customers who should be
+looked well after, for they are the sportsmen who do not consider
+expense, though of course there are others who are just the opposite.
+
+Further, Rat-catching is a business in which one is not called upon to
+allow credit. It is all a ready-money trade, and as there is not much
+competition, the Rat-catcher can command a good price for his work. He
+has always one resource open to him when he has finished a job according
+to contract (catching say 40 or 50 Rats), should there be a dispute about
+the price and the people decline to pay the bill, then he has the
+expedient of letting the Rats at liberty again in the place where he had
+caught them. Most people will pay the price you send in rather than have
+the Rats turned loose again.
+
+Although I am showing how the Rat-catcher can always have the advantage
+of stubborn payers, I may as well assure my readers that in all my
+experience such an occurrence as the above has never happened with me,
+simply because I always make my arrangements beforehand, which course I
+always find the best and most satisfactory all round.
+
+Another matter I may mention. If any one could find out a sure way of
+catching Rats so that he could give a guarantee to clear large buildings,
+my opinion is that he would make a fortune in a very short time; for I
+know firms in Manchester alone that would pay almost any amount to be rid
+of the Rats; not only because of what they consume, but more for the
+damage they do to their goods.
+
+I have referred to the Rat-catcher obtaining good pay. The reason he
+commands such a big price for his work at the present time is because
+there is not much sale for live Rats. The trade is not what it was some
+years ago when Rat-pits were allowed. I think it was one of the worst
+things they ever did for this country when the authorities stopped the
+Rat pits, for when Rat killing was allowed in pits, it was a common thing
+for a Rat-catcher to receive an order for 100 Rats, all to be killed at
+one time; then the Rat-catcher would get the Rats and wherever he got
+them from he was ridding that district of a nuisance. But when the
+authorities stopped Rat-pits and Rat-coursing, the consequence was that
+the Rat-catcher left the Rats to breed in thousands. Rats being vermin,
+I don't see why they should not be killed 50 or 100 at a time in the pit,
+but the Humane Society maintain that it is cruelty to dogs to put them in
+a pit with a lot of Rats. I don't see where the cruelty comes in, but
+from what I have seen of Rat-pits during my time I approve of them, and I
+think if they were in existence again there would be a clearing of many
+thousands of Rats. Some 15 or 20 years since, I supplied 400 Rats in one
+week, all to be killed in Rat-pits.
+
+Many of my readers may not understand what a Rat-pit is, and so I will
+just give an outline as well as I can.
+
+The Rat-pit is of circular construction, say ten feet diameter, and about
+four feet six inches deep, the sides being perfectly smooth to prevent
+the rats climbing up and making their escape. A certain number of Rats
+are placed in the pit according to the arrangements made with the owner
+of the dog. Then the dog is put in the pit with the rats to kill them,
+which a good dog does very quickly.
+
+The reason the pit is built circular is so that the Rats will keep
+running round, for if it were square they would all run in a corner, one
+on the other, and then the dog would have no difficulty in killing them.
+It is better to have the pit fairly deep; if not, the rats might escape.
+
+I think the best dog, within my recollection, that I have seen was a bull
+and fox terrier, which killed 40 good Rats in three minutes and 21
+seconds. I have read and heard of dogs doing better feats, but I am only
+writing of what I have myself seen. I may say that the records for Rat-
+killing in Rat-pits are held by a dog called Jacko, which killed 200 Rats
+in 14 minutes and 37 seconds, and 1,000 Rats in less than one hour and 40
+minutes.
+
+The Rat-catcher has also some very dirty jobs to do sometimes. Often he
+has to go under all sorts of cellar floors, both wet and dry, but the
+majority of places are very wet and dirty, for the Rats nearly always
+come out of some filthy drain, and very often near a water-closet, the
+abominable smell arising from these places being sufficient to cause a
+fever.
+
+I remember being once employed at a hospital, and I was paid at the rate
+of 5s. per visit for trapping Rats. Well, I found that 5s. per visit did
+not pay me (I had about 120 traps set all over the place), so I went
+before the committee and requested 8s. per night. The committee said
+they thought 5s. per visit was enough, and one or two of them said they
+thought 8s. per night was above a Rat-catcher's pay. Now, as I was not
+depending on that particular job at the time, I turned round and told
+them what I thought. I told them I considered Rat-catching was a skilled
+occupation, and I also offered any of them a five-pound note if they
+would only follow me under the floors at midnight, not to speak of taking
+the live Rats out of the traps in the dark; but I can assure you that
+none of these gentlemen would venture to undertake the task.
+
+Now, if any of these gentlemen had to do this a few times they would not
+refuse to pay the Rat-catcher the sum he asks, viz., 8s. per night.
+
+I remember more than once in big places such as bonding warehouses, when
+I have been under the floors, my candle or lamp has gone out through
+being knocked over with grabbing at Rats, and I have not had a match in
+my pocket, and have had to grope about in the dark trying to find the
+trap-door where I have got under the floors, more often than not putting
+my hand in a set trap. It would be of no use shouting for a light simply
+because I have been alone. It is always better for a Rat-catcher to have
+assistance for night work, but I have done it myself very often.
+
+Now, the expenses of travelling come very heavy sometimes, for wherever
+the Rat-catcher goes he always has to pay railway fare for himself and
+his dog.
+
+Another thing I must tell you. Often when I have gone to inspect a small
+building I have found that there were a great many Rats in, but I have
+also known, after inspecting the place, that they have all come from the
+one place, out of the drain. Well, if I have contracted to do this job
+for a lump sum, I could easily clear this place and not catch an odd Rat,
+simply by ferreting them all back into the sewer in the daytime, and then
+making it good; but in most of these cases they do not like to pay your
+bill because you have caught no Rats. Still, you have driven them all
+down the drains, and after making the drain good they cannot get back
+again into the building.
+
+Now, in a case like this I always trap them two or three nights and catch
+a few, just to give satisfaction to those engaging me.
+
+Sometimes gentlemen will write inviting me to meet them at a certain
+farm, and bring my ferrets and a good supply of nets, alleging that there
+are "hundreds of Rats in the stacks." I just relate this to indicate how
+anyone not regularly amongst Rats can easily be deceived as to their
+numbers, for a couple of Rats on the thatch of a stack, especially when
+they have young ones, will probably have twelve holes eaten in the thatch
+and underneath the stack, and anyone not understanding their habits would
+think there were a lot of Rats in it.
+
+And it is much the same with workpeople; if they chance to see two or
+three Rats at once, they will say there are "scores" of them. You would
+also be surprised to see the awful dread that tenants have of the Rat-
+catcher in private houses. When ferreting these places they think that
+if a Rat-catcher has once put his ferrets under the floor they will never
+see another Rat in the place; but depend upon it they are very bad to
+catch in these places.
+
+I have often had much trouble respecting houses, warehouses, etc., to
+know whose duty it would be to pay the Rat-catcher for his work, the
+landlord's or the tenant's, but I think that the landlord should pay. I
+have had many engagements to catch Rats in newly-built houses before they
+were tenanted. The time the Rats get into these places is whilst the
+workmen are putting the drains in the back yards, leaving the drains open
+at nights. Thence the Rats come out and get under the floors, sometimes
+having to stop there, too, simply because the next day the joiners board
+up the floors and thus block the Rats in underneath, and then the Rats
+can always get into the kitchens up the back of the fireplace. Most
+property owners would do well to take note of this fact.
+
+I must tell my readers, especially those having large shops, etc., that
+it is a good plan, if possible, to turn off the gas and water every night
+and week-end, for I have seen a good many cases where the Rats in the
+night-time have eaten through a water-pipe, and the place has been
+flooded by morning. It is just the same with a gas-pipe, and my opinion
+is that it is quite possible for fires to be caused by Rats in the night-
+time. Rats are very fond of nibbling and scratching at soft wood, and it
+would be an easy matter at a grocer's shop for a Rat to bite or scratch
+through the package of a gross of matches and ignite them, and the same
+cause may prove disastrous with any other inflammable goods.
+
+Respecting the conveyance of live Rats, the Rat-catcher should always be
+particular to have good strong cages and bags, because if he had a number
+of Rats in an unserviceable bag which happened to break open at a railway
+station or in the street, I think he could be summoned for the damage the
+escaped Rats might do. Still, I have not in my time had or heard of a
+case of this sort.
+
+Speaking of bags, a good many people seem to think that if a man puts his
+hand into a bagful of Rats they will bite him, but I can assure you that
+a child could do the same thing and not be bitten. Should there be only
+two or three in the bag, then they will bite, but not in the event of
+there being a good number. The same rule applies to Rats stored in a
+cage, where there is open daylight--if there be 40 or 50 Rats together,
+it is then the habit of the Rats for all to cling together, and they will
+let you handle them anyway if only you will have sufficient courage.
+
+It is very good sport for gentlemen who want a good day's outing to go to
+farms when threshing is on, and also to go hunting and ferreting round
+the corn and wheat fields, and I think many sporting gentlemen who have
+not seen such sport would indulge in it freely after they had once
+witnessed it. I think it is much better and healthier sport than rabbit-
+shooting, especially in the summer when the farmers are cutting their
+corn and wheat.
+
+When catching Rats as a regular pursuit, one is surprised at the queer
+places in which he finds them. I recollect ferreting seven full-sized
+Rats from under the floor of a built dog kennel not above four yards
+square, where a large mastiff and a terrier dog slept every night, only a
+3/4-inch board dividing them from the Rats, and the Rats having eaten
+holes through the boards in the kennel! I have also found at an
+out-house an old bitch Rat and nine young ones in an old tin trunk
+without a lid. I have also caught Rats and taken young ones out of the
+nest from under railway sleepers where trains have been running and
+shunting operations carried on every day. And I have even taken old and
+young ones in their nest from a pile of Cheshire cheese, at a wholesale
+cheese and bacon factor's!
+
+And mentioning cheese in this connection reminds me that once I
+discovered that Rats had scratched and eaten a hole direct through the
+bottom lot of cheese in a pile which had only been there three weeks.
+
+A word or two about what a Rat will do with a ferret. I have often seen
+a Rat run a ferret out of the hole, and then wait with its head out of
+the hole until the ferret has come to it again. I remember once
+ferreting at a hencote, and put the ferret behind the hen nest, whereupon
+the Rat attacked the ferret, which then jumped back and died in five
+minutes, the Rats having given only one bite behind the ferret's ear! Of
+course this is a very rare occurrence. True, I have had many ferrets
+killed by Rats in my time, but it has always occurred through the
+poisonous bite first swelling and then "taking bad ways," the ferret
+dying in probably a week or so.
+
+You must understand that if you put a Rat and a ferret together in a tub
+the ferret would kill the Rat in nine cases out of ten, the nature of the
+Rat being to get away from the ferret if possible; but if it cannot it
+will fight, and I think a Rat, for its size, is of a very vicious nature,
+for I have often seen when trying a puppy at killing a Rat in a pit, that
+a game Rat will run the puppy all round the pit. The best way to try a
+pup to kill a Rat is to draw the teeth of the first Rat it secures for
+sometimes if a pup gets a severe bite from a Rat it will never look at
+another. It is a very bad plan to let a pup play with a Rat too much,
+for this causes the pup never to put a hard mouth on the Rat. When this
+latter occurs it is the best plan not to allow the same pup to see
+another Rat until it is a month or two older. If you will take care and
+trouble with a pup you can bring it up to your own liking, and to do
+anything you want. I have worked seven years with a curly-coated
+retriever bitch, and when ferreting a brook she would stand in the water
+and catch the Rats that escaped from the nets into the brook and bring
+them to me alive in her mouth. I have sold hundreds of Rats she has
+caught in this manner, and to show you how the dogs can be brought up
+with the ferrets I need only mention that this bitch would lie down and
+let two ferrets kill a Rat on the curly coat of her back.
+
+Farmers know too well of the many restless nights the cows and horses
+experience through Rats. I have seen when trapping all night at a farm
+the Rats running over the cows and horses whilst sleeping: and when
+horses have been working in the field all day they want better rest in
+the night. I have known when farmers would not let the Rat-catcher
+ferret their buildings gratis, simply because they have a few hens
+sitting. They don't consider that when the hens have hatched the eggs
+the Rats will take the chickens. Whenever a farmer has refused to let me
+ferret at his farm I have passed that farm ever afterwards. To show you
+the different dispositions of farmers I have met, I may mention that when
+once ferreting at a farm, we caught nine rats and lost the ferret, and
+two days afterwards the ferret was found on the farm, and I sent for it,
+but the farmer demanded two shillings of me for the ferret's keep. This
+same man I may add farmed about two hundred acres.
+
+Of course, there are other farmers just the opposite, who will not only
+pay you for your trouble, but take great interest in helping you to catch
+the Rats. I relate these facts and incidents to show you the contrast in
+the disposition of different people one meets in this business.
+
+I don't think the Rat-catcher's life is one of the worst if he looks well
+after his business, for he has a few advantages over other occupations.
+In the first place, he is his own master, and need only doff his coat
+when he chooses, there being for him no such summons to work as a factory
+bell. And if he fancies a day's outing in the country he can always take
+his dog and ferrets with him, and make a day's pleasure into a
+remunerative business, by reason of the income from the Rats, and I find
+from experience that the best friends he has are his dog and ferrets, if
+he will look well after them and treat them kindly, for I think that a
+Rat-catcher in the country without a good dog might walk over scores of
+Rats and never know they were there, so you will see that his dog is
+chiefly what he has to trust to.
+
+And now, in conclusion, let me express the hope that this book will prove
+instructive, entertaining, and profitable to my readers, inasmuch as I
+have endeavoured to make it so to the best of my ability and within the
+somewhat limited scope and sphere of a Rat-catcher's calling. Of course,
+I might have made the narrative portion of the book more startling and
+exciting, had I drawn upon my imagination, but I have thought it best to
+adhere to cold fact and actual experience.
+
+
+
+
+HINTS ON RABBIT SHOOTING.
+
+
+Always have your gun made at your gunmaker's to your own liking.
+
+Always be prepared for the worst of weather, and be sure to have good
+strong boots.
+
+Never have your gun on full cock while walking about, especially whilst
+going through a fence.
+
+Never stand too close to a burrow, and don't be too eager to shoot.
+
+Always have your gun pointed upwards to the clouds or down to the ground.
+
+Never shoot at a rabbit as it sits on the top of the hole, or you might
+shoot the ferret. Always stand so that all the shooters can see one
+another.
+
+Never remove from where the gamekeeper places you.
+
+Never have your gun barrels up while it is raining.
+
+When you go out in the country always provide yourself with refreshments
+before starting.
+
+If you miss an easy shot don't blame the gun.
+
+Don't be too excited, and get well on the rabbits before you pull.
+
+If the keeper's dog is retrieving rabbits never attempt to take one from
+it.
+
+
+
+
+AUTHOR'S NOTES.
+
+
+IKE MATTHEWS is prepared to go out Ratting with parties of gentlemen or
+their gamekeepers on their private estates during the summer, supplying
+dog, ferrets, and nets, at moderate charges. Arrangements may be made by
+post.
+
+IKE MATTHEWS is also willing to go out rabbit-shooting with gentlemen
+during the season, and will supply and work ferrets at reasonable
+charges. He is also prepared to break dogs and puppies to ferreting and
+Ratting on reasonable terms.
+
+Any number of live Rats and rabbits supplied at a few days' notice.
+
+All orders promptly attend to.
+ Undeniable References.
+ Yours truly,
+ IKE MATTHEWS.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FULL REVELATIONS OF A PROFESSIONAL
+RAT-CATCHER***
+
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